Taking in coverage of this year’s launches, you could be forgiven for thinking the watch gods want us to lie down in green pastures. Dials in emerald, palm, olive, lime, malachite and all manner of other green shades dominate the new inventory.
The signs continue with Longines’ announcement today of a green-dialled variant of its not-long-launched Spirit watch. In October, the Saint-Imier brand debuted versions of its handsome new three-hand date model with black, white and blue dials. Whether adding another colour at this juncture was always on the cards or it’s simply a reaction to this year’s dial greenwash, I suppose we’ll never know, but judging by these images, it’s a good step either way.
In the metal, one watch is in fact four. There are two case sizes, one at 40mm and another at 42mm, and you can have either on a beige leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet. If you’re feeling flush, you can pick up both strap options and change them yourself, thanks to the sort of quick strap change system that’s fast becoming a luxury watchmaking standard. They’re the same watch by any other measure. Prices start at £1,750 for the 40mm on a strap and rise to £2,050 for the 42mm on a bracelet.
The Spirit’s dial has a dusty, army green canvas tent hue, with guyrope beige lume detailing. A nice touch is the signature diamond-shaped hour markers that cut into the dial’s outer ring, motifs lifted from watches Longines created for pioneer aviators and the military during a prolific prewar period. Those five stars across the dial are another throwback, this time to a device Longines once used to indicate its top-end pieces and has recently revived.
Indicating that quality is the automatic movement powering these watches. Created exclusively for Longines by sister company ETA, it provides the watch with time and date functions and a healthy 72-hour power reserve. It’s also chronometer certified for accuracy and upgraded with an anti-magnetic, low-maintenance silicon balance wheel, and joins a package Longines has stamped with a five-year warranty.
It’s a fine-looking watch with plenty of crossover appeal, although – and this thought isn’t at all specific to Longines’ watch – I can’t help thinking a green dial is a curious call, unless your watch wardrobe is already laced with black, white and blue. That said, if your answer to the pandemic is to buy a green-dialled watch with a spirit that says “fresh start”, I wouldn’t think of standing in your way. Instead, I’d argue Longines’ spin on the theme is a fine choice.
From £1,750. longines.com
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