Before its adoption for “higher” purposes, the Omega Speedmaster was a watch designed with motorsport in mind. As the name suggests, this was a watch a racing driver might strap to his wrist, the tachymeter on the bezel (rather than the dial) increasing that all-important legibility. So-called “racing dials”, with their distinctive checkerboard minute track and high-contrast hands take the legibility one stage further and have appeared in the Speedmaster collection repeatedly over the years. There is one model, previously assumed to have been just another racer, that turns out to share the lofty ambitions of the original ST105.012 “Moonwatch”.
Ref 311.30.42.30.01.004 was launched in 2013 and seemed to have the typical two-colour checked design of a racing Speedy, albeit with more solid, contrasting squares than usual. This rather unusual design flew under the radar at first, with fewer than 2,000 watches finding buyers. But the discovery of the original intention for this watch has since turned it into hot property.
During their brand presentation at Basel, Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello Watches learned from Omega’s head of product development, Jean-Claude Monachon, that the red and white colour scheme was the by-product of an abortive attempt to celebrate a fictional lunar explorer – Tintin. Hergé’s 16th volume of Tintin adventures, Destination Moon, was first published in 1950, almost two decades before Apollo 11. Tintin’s rocket featured distinctive red and white checked paintwork, which inspired the minute track of the Speedmaster and the unusual red writing on the case back. The planned dial would also have placed a rocket at eleven o’clock. Talks with the owners of the Hergé estate broke down so only one completed watch exists and it is not for public view.
Yet the discovery of a link to Tintin, even if it's one unacknowledged by the publishers, has given the 311.30.42.30.01.004 undeniable cachet – and the collectors' market has taken note. Originally retailing for just over £3,000, these are now being offered in the pre-owned market for between £8,000 and £9,000 with full box and papers (although this may be pushing the price a little, as confirmed sales seem to hover just under £6,000). Indeed, Wei Koh at Revolution wrote a piece in 2019 entitled “Could the Omega Speedmaster Tintin be the next Paul Newman Daytona?”
For a wearable, accessible limited edition with growth appeal and an intriguing back story, the watch is hard to beat. And, what's more, its recent production allows originality to be confirmed with Omega.
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