Tears literally rolled down the cheeks of Patek Philippe Nautilus lovers when the OG ref.5711 was discontinued. We grieved with them, and though we did whip up a story on some pretty damn good alternatives, we still missed the real deal.
This week, Patek Philippe rather stealthily unveiled eight new watches, or as they put it: ‘eight debuts that showcase the manufacture's fields of excellence.’ Emphasis on ‘fields’ (plural), because everything Patek does is rarely ever remotely questionable – except maybe retiring an icon? That didn’t last long though, and who knows the consequent mourning was probably all part of the plan.
Alas, among the mighty eight newbies, as if rising from the dead in time for Halloween, the Nautilus is back. A new chapter begins in one of the watch world's most enduring love stories. Blink though, and you'll miss what's different about the new one.
The hold-your-breath debut of the replacement of the new Patek Philippe Nautilus is ref.5811/1G. This time Patek's big dog, Thierry Stern, has levelled up to white gold, making a weighty statement. For years, it's been nigh-on impossible to buy the previous Nautilus in steel at retail price – a pre-owned OG Nautilus goes for six figures – so the iconic piece looks all the better in its new white gold suit.
Similar to the release of the last Rolex Submariner in 2020, there is a one-millimetre difference in size, and the movement inside remains the same. We're all about incremental changes – plus, a grail is a grail. Now 41mm, the nouveau Nautilus has a drop-dead gorgeous gradient striated dial and the tweaked case design revisits its '70s origins. Yes, the movement might be the same as in the 5711, but if it ain’t broke why fix it?
A legend is reborn, Mr. Stern has clearly given the people what they didn't know they wanted – and for that, we approve and applaud the move. Not least because the new Nautilus wasn't the only headline act among the new releases to drop. We have a sweet spot for the smaller 35.2mm rainbow version in rose gold, the aptly named Nautilus Joaillerie. Small is beautiful – Tyler, the Creator will concur – and it packs a glittering punch with the small matter of 68 baguette-cut diamonds making up a graduated bezel of dreams. Should you still hanker after the feel of steel, the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph is a beefier brother, now resurrected with a new blue dial and a muscular 41.5mm case.
In a totally different ballpark, the surprises kept coming as we 100 percent did not expect to see a left-handed split-seconds monopusher chronograph Ref.5373. As if embarking on a new, sporty and fresh path for the brand, it boasts a monopusher mechanism for the chronograph and a popping set of red hands. As a traditional complication we’ve seen it from Patek before, but this modern take is closer to the H-Moser Streamliner Chronograph in its fresh approach, so big kudos. Rolex's Destro drew gasps aplenty in March so this new lefty makes it a good year to be a southpaw. In addition the Ref.5373 has the thinnest perpetual calendar movement of its kind, so consider this leftie a choice rarity.
As one of the last remaining independent brands in the industry, Patek Philippe has built up a legacy and trust that few other brands can lay claim to. It means that rather than jumping on any form of hype train, Patek knows it can do its own thing, when it deems fit. We’re down with that approach, especially when fruits include (another) surprise – an updated on the Ref.5935 World Time Flyback Chronograph, all refreshed with the best salmon-coloured dials in the business and a new steel case. Though the steel sadly doesn’t make it affordable, its mid-century mix of intricate guilloche patterns and evocative destinations is a fitting toast to the brand. World Timers are a charming throwback to the age of Louis Vuitton trunks and suiting up for the voyage. It’s an unusual complication these days shown by Bulgari in the Octo Roma and by upper-echelon brand Greubel Forsey. For us it bookends this surprising affirmation of strength by the storied brand. And as if that wasn’t enough, it’s one of the few wristwatches around to include a chronograph in a top-tier travel companion.
