Let’s just admit it, we all desire the Patek Philippe Nautilus, and the reborn ref.5811/1G in white gold is a worthy – if costly – heir to the 5711 OG throne. But while some of us would sell our house for its sleek precious metal Genta embrace, your partner should really take umbrage. The entire genre of integrated bracelets has exploded over the past couple of years, but to take on the porthole-inspired one is a big challenge.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus’ status may be undisputed, but a new breed of braceleted options is knocking on its grail-door. Independent watchmaking is having a big surge, and with a few budget options the investment-grade will be less than you suspected, while different enough to stand out from the big-brand wrist crowd, meaning you can get in on the sleek lux-sports action with these curated options.
From an already strong first impression on its launch, the English brothers' claim of its over-engineered design is apparent in the details. The case and bracelet come across as a smooth-talking muscular cousin to the Royal Oak, while the impression is pure Bremont Brit. Each Supernova is built to order at its Henley-based manufacturing and tech-base The Wing, in a slim 40mm case. It might be Bremont’s most elegant watch to date, but the bulletproof nature comes through in the bold details, while being the debut watch of its lauded in-house ENG375 movement. £7,995. At bremont.com
Czapek has chiselled out its own niche with the broad Antarctique range, and for good reason. The C-shaped bracelet is its distinct calling card, while the recognisable scalloped case sides give it a future-tech look. This new Dark Sector version gives us all the right reasons to love the new wave of indie ateliers, with a new feel. This time Czapek has re-imagined its Nauti-killer in a lightweight titanium case, with a spare design that’s a heavy-hitting wrist presence nonetheless. CHF32,000. At czapek.com
This one popped out at us from the steel, gold and platinum crowd in Geneva last month for a reason. The sartorial nous of Austrian brand Carl Suchy & Söhne with designer Milos Ristin made the pinstripe-textured dial of the Belvedere stand out with monochrome pizzazz. It’s a sleek, well-rounded example of understated style with a broad-shouldered look and a twist. The date window is revealed through a dial that changes its pattern with each passing day. €6,400. At carlsuchy.com
The Citizen brand embodies everything we love about Japanese watchmaking, and the new NJ-series rocks. In a cushion-svelte case of quite perfect proportions sits an enticing, colourful blend of influences. It might come across odd if describing its Rolex OP-ish dial within a flush-crown cushion case with a chunky president-style bracelet, but it gels. Coming in tempting array of colours from a Tiffany blue to this aqua-green number, it has an in-house auto movement, unbeatable and coming soon at €299. At citizenwatch.co.uk
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Our favourite casual-fit icon Ryan Reynolds knows understated chic when he sees it, from Bode shirts to candy-pop bracelets. The svelte, quietly spoken Piaget Polo S certainly fits his image of effortless cool and is a great option in the Swiss sport lux stakes. The radiant dial is a flash of emerald with its striated surface juxtaposed to a broad swathe of brushed gold. The indefinable well-rounded shape of the bold bezel and slim case is elegant in a different way to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which may feel too wide and oddly shaped from some angles. From the cheeky logo at the end of the seconds hand to its silky feel on the wrist, this is the time to look at the Piaget as a solid alternative. An alternative that maybe even has the power to eclipse the much-vaunted Nautilus. And if you enjoy the dazzle of green but want to appreciate the in-house Piaget caliber, the micro-architecture of its skeletonised version taps into a futurist vibe. £24,300. At piaget.com
Any Laurent Ferrier is a studied, dressy and hand-finished choice, with exceptional execution and details to die for. There is also an unusual connection to its discontinued alternative. Laurent Ferrier worked at Patek Philippe for 35 years, during the golden age of Genta-designs in the '70s. But the sheer otherness of the Laurent Ferrier Sport makes it integrated bracelet royalty, with a charming, conflicting nature. Pair this with a jauntily unbuttoned denim shirt, and you’ll find its fresh colours making it a summer fave. With a blue gradient dial offset by mint green lume details, revel in the attention any hand-finished Laurent Ferrier will garner. CHF46,000. At laurentferrier.ch
While the Royal Oak and Nautilus soaked up the plaudits of the glamorous watch-buying public, GP's Laureato remained on the sidelines. This has all changed over the past couple of years, with the Clous de Paris dial reminiscent of Audemars Piguet's RO being traded for the intense gloss of Onyx. This dazzling incarnation marries a galaxy-depth black to the silky feel of brushed 18ct rose gold. An understated presence enjoyed by knowledgeable collectors like footballer Gerard Pique, who's been known to a rock a skeletonised version of the svelte Laureato, as well as everyone's favourite F1 driver these days, Sebastian Vettel. £42,000. At girard-perregaux.com
The name might be bold but one look into the dial cements a very strong first impression. The deep vortex-like structure of the dial echoes the bright blue eyes of, you guessed it, an alpine eagle on your retina. Its 41mm case is surprisingly compact and brighter than usual. Chopard’s proprietary alloy Lucent steel is partly recycled, making this chunky yet refined watch catch the smallest ray of sun on the corners of its multi-layered case. £12,900. At chopard.com
Bell & Ross might be known for its brawny retro wrist instruments in all-black, but what about the BR05? The squircle design of its blackened pilot’s watches has somehow been distilled and refined with a wry French touch. A slim wrist presence with a distinctive design, the '70s vibe of the Nautilus might be here in spirit but has been re-interpreted for our Nouveau-20s. The 40mm BR05 has an urban feel, yet makes for tough everyday wear with a 100m depth rating. Price on Request. At bellross.com
Idris Elba can’t be wrong, and like him, what a massive wrist presence this small, ultra-slim Gucci watch has. Alessandro Michele’s touch is delightfully apparent in the non-watch designer’s genius of making the actual crystal of the watch from candy-pop colours, not the dial. The pink pop is as prominent as Elba's screen presence and marks a celebratory return to watch-cool for Gucci as its watchmaking up turns the big 5-0. £1250. At gucci.com
