Some context if we may. For most (normal, non-watch geek) people, there is little to no reason why you should have a clue what Watches and Wonders is, when it is, or what wonders it might bring. But if we say, “Yo! Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, IWC and TAG Heuer just dropped some new absolute worldies you need to see” then you might be interested, right? Or "Hey, did you see David Beckham, Roger Federer and Julia Roberts showed up (not together) to some watch fair in Geneva?” – that’s gonna turn your head.
Luckily you needn’t scroll through the hundreds of new watch releases from all your favourite brands because we’ve asked some of the most knowledgable watch heads in the industry to do so for you – each choosing a watch they loved more than anything else. Shout out to everyone who contributed and enjoy these, the most killer new watches of Watches and Wonders (what’s that?) 2023.
Grand Seiko Tentagraph
“An imposing and well executed chronograph that runs at 10 beats a second, hence ‘tenta’. Grand Seiko is famous not just for its Spring Drive movement but also the hi-beat 36,000 BPH movement which is now for the first time available in chronograph form. Hi-beat chronograph movements are relatively rare in the marketplace and this is a serious flex for the Japanese watchmakers.” Mark Cho (@markchodotcom), co-owner of Drake's & co-founder of The Armoury
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante
“After last year’s smash hit that was the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante, the brand has done it again with the diver-inspired Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante that takes that concept to the minute hand – and embodies the notion, as the brand says, ‘that complications are hidden until you need it.’ This is complex, sophisticated watchmaking made simple, all the while looking super elegant, pared back and chic too.” Ming Liu (@mingliuwrites), watch journalist
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
“The watchmaker’s watchmaker revisits its 1996 Reverso Chronograph with a bold stainless steel update that presents a crisp Art Deco two-handed dress watch on one side and a Chronograph with 30-minute retrograde counter and silky new movement on the flipside. Two JLC watches for the price of one, both of them first rate. James Buttery (@jamesbutteryxx), watch journalist
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref.6007G-011
“Among the 17 models introduced by Patek Philippe, the Calatrava white gold in blue, reference 6007G-011, is one of the highlights of Watches & Wonders for me. The three types of finishing on the dial, the touches of sky blue on the ebony black dial and the strap stitching really caught my eye.” Camille Guille (@perpetual.girl), watch journalist
Hermès H08
“Hermès has always been a breath of fresh air, and 2023 is no different. The H08 is an object lesson on how to design a sports watch that is genuinely chic, and devoid of the clichés that plague the genre. This year the French luxury maison added colour and new materials in a way that feels natural and effortless. At the heart of Hermès’ success in the watch space is the fact they are not, fundamentally, a watch brand, but that hasn't stopped them from making top notch watches.” Felix Scholz (@fkscholz), watch journalist and OT: The Podcast host
Rolex GMT-Master II in yellow gold
“This year, I’ve decided there’s really nothing I want more than to own a big gold watch. Forget stainless steel – the gaudier the better. Look no further than the usually stainless-steel Rollie GMT-Master II that now comes in full 18-carat gold and is all the better for it. If I could take home one watch from Geneva, it would be this one.” Cam Wolf (@camjwolf), US GQ Style Feature Writer
A Lange & Sohne Odysseus Chronograph
“This beauty caught my eye due to the brand new automatic chronograph caliber created for it in addition to the pushers having a dual function of the chronograph and setting the day and date. It’s limited to 100 pieces (despite Anthony de Hass [Lange’s director of development] joking that 15,000 were in production) and apparently two watchmakers are about to be employed to get cracking solely on this model.” Nick Gould (@niccoloy), watch journalist
Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XPS
“Suddenly I'm a sports watches on integrated bracelets guy. The salmon ‘Monte Rosa Pink’ dial is pretty, special and the two combined, but the biggest thing for me (other than the small seconds display) is the fact this isn't a limited edition piece meaning I can legitimately aspire to one day owning this hunk.” Mike Christensen (@christensenmike), GQ European Lifestyle Editor
Admirers doubled up on this piece: “The idea came from the younger generation of the Scheufele family that owns Chopard, but the Alpine Eagle is getting better with age. This year’s has been gently refined and kitted out with a champagne dial, giving it a delicious nonchalance I couldn’t resist.” Robin Swithinbank (@robin_swithinbank), watch journalist
Cartier Baignoire
“The fact that Cartier reissued its Baignoire in a functionally improved upon “mini” size makes me optimistic that the industry is moving in a more female-friendly direction. Of course, Cartier watches have always had unisex appeal, but the mini (on the bangle, especially) is decidedly femme without feeling too dainty." Brynn Wallner (@Dimepiece), watch journalist
Chanel J12 Caliber 12.1
“I’ll be frank and say that Rolex has me under their spell this week to the point where I could drum-up an entire calendar year’s worth of Day-Date articles. But the less obvious choice – and we all know being less obvious is more chic. Hello quiet luxury! – has to be Chanel’s J12 Caliber 12.1. I’m calling for a J12 renaissance. But this time around it’s less of a slung on the wrist à la Paris Hilton and LiLo with matching Juicy Couture tracksuit situation, and more of an elevated yet understated accessory for fashion and watch lovers alike.” Malaika Crawford (@malaikamc), watch journalist
IWC Ingenieur Titanium
“Well, Mrs. Genta told me that her late husband [watchmaking goat Gerald Genta] was not very fond of repeats. Hence, she believes GG would’ve loved the new version of the IWC Ingenieur. Admittedly, it has its own look and only a few similarities to the 1976 original. That said, I would have loved a 1:1 of the Jumbo SL. But that’s just me…” Kristian Haagen (@kristianhaagen), watch specialist
And someone else agrees: “Yes, the Ingenieur is back and it works wonders! It’s a revival of the Holy Trinity of Genta design, they have knocked it out of the park and revived such a great icon.” George Bamford (@bamfordwatchdepartment), watch designer
Tudor Black Bay 54
“The Black Bay 54 might subtly be the most intriguing release for me. Tudor once offered mini-subs, and also offers the Black Bay 58... but a modern 37mm diver coming in a hair over 11mm thick with the T-fit clasp system almost seems too perfect on paper. I've owned many modern Tudors and the dimensions have always just felt a tad off with regard to bulk. The sleeker dimensions and bracelet technology – combined with the usual sturdy Tudor in-house caliber – makes me think this may be the best Black Bay to date.” Lee Candela (@Brodinkee), watch expert
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm
“My mum said the redesigned Carrera Chronograph looks better on my wrist than Ryan Gosling’s. It’s a big (erroneous) shout as she only saw the watch in iPhone pics not IRL but what I took from her maternal bias is that the watch is the star – more eye-catching than the subject (sorry, Ryan). I sometimes find celebrating a watch model’s anniversary quite tenuous but when a brand evolves an icon to be even more iconic, that’s not to be sniffed at.” Mike Christensen (@christensenmike), GQ European Lifestyle Editor
Hermès Arceau Story
"My heart definitely veers more towards the wondrous side of Watches and Wonders, and what could be more wonderful than this beauty from the Hermès Arceau Story line? A princess on horseback with a selfie stick painstakingly hand-painted, with enamelling and engraving on the mother of pearl dial – complete with birds of paradise, monkeys and turtles. It’s mad. And brilliant." Alfie Tong (@alfredcytong), GQ contributor
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration Dial
“If I had to pick just one favourite piece of wristwear from this year’s Watches and Wonders, it would be a battle to the death between two small-cased wonders. The bubblicious Rolex O.P with its 51 colour-popping dial, or the annoyingly perfect Tudor Black Bay 54. Though a second of wrist time with the engraved Grand Seiko SBGZ009 would make me forget all else, I’m sure.” Thor Svaboe (@thorsvaboe), GQ contributor
Patek Philippe Ref. 5316/50P-001
“Amazing. The 5316 is just on another level for me. Minute repeater. Tourbillon. Perpetual calendar. Retrograde date display. Moon-phase indication. There is just so much watch and I’m weak for a sapphire crystal dial.” Adrian Aldred (@convopiece), bespoke watch consultant
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Retrograde Date
“The VC OS Retrograde Date Moonphase takes two classic dress watch complications and reframes them in one of the hottest high-end steel sports watches in the game. The result is a perfectly rounded gentleman for the wrist – which can roll on a leather strap for suited occasions and steel or rubber for this sporting life. This is truly one watch to do it all.” Andrew McUtchen (@andrew_mcutchen), Time+Tide founder
Cartier Tank collection privée
“There really isn't anything normal about the new Tank Normales, is there? An icon reincarnate, back with a bang in Cartier's Privé collection. There were a fair few superlatives being thrown around the Palexpo building about the Normales being in precious metals. My fave of these new watches is the yellow gold with blue sapphire cabochon." Mike Christensen (@christensenmike), GQ European Lifestyle Editor
Others were big fans of the new Privé collection entries too.
"The first all platinum Tank for years is better and cheaper than buying vintage. There are only 100 being made in the world so it’s a sure fire investment.” Simon de Burton, GQ contributor
