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As someone who’s always on the hunt for the perfect T-shirt, I have a lot of them. My drawer is jammed with a few dozen blank tees from at least 16 different brands. They range from cheap bulk buys to esoteric rarities, but they’re all made from 100% cotton without any synthetics. In that sense, I’m a T-shirt purist. So when I came across Proof’s 72-Hour Merino tee, I wasn’t so keen on the idea of a non-cotton version—let alone one made of wool—hugging my torso during the height of summer.
The Claim
Merino wool's wondrous properties are well-documented. It’s insulating, sure, the perfect fabric to keep you cozy, especially when it comes in turtleneck sweater form. But it’s also quick-drying, moisture-wicking, antimicrobial, and temperature-regulating, not to mention more durable than cotton—in short, an ideal summer fiber. If those sound more like the type of performance specs developed in a lab than the doings of good ol' Mother Nature, you might want to check your skepticism, at least temporarily. Because on top of all that, Proof claims their shirt is durable and comfortable enough to wear for three days straight—without smelling! Sound a little too good to be true? Agreed. So I decided to check it out for myself.
The Specs
The marquee feature of the Proof 72-Hour merino T-shirt is its fabric, a superfine 16.5 micron merino wool Proof sources from New Zealand. If those type of specs sound a little wonky, just remember: the larger the number, the thicker the fiber. Extra fine fibers like merino wool usually measure no less than 19 microns in diameter; superfine fibers measure less than 17. (For reference, the hair on your head is around 90 microns.) Which makes the wool Proof uses uniquely suited to warm-weather wear—and adding a healthy dose of nylon to the mix sure doesn't hurt, either. Material aside, the tee also features flatlock stitching throughout and a bound collar made from the same fabric.
The Experience
Truth be told, I wasn’t prepared for how soft the 72-Hour tee is. At first feel, it’s almost comically lightweight and unexpectedly silky, more like high-end tissue paper than a T-shirt meant to handle the rigors of outdoor excursions or a long weekend upstate. But the fabric is stretchy and impressively durable. That structural integrity is all thanks to the generous helping of nylon which not only helps strengthen the fabric, but it also makes it machine-washable. When I first put it on, I could tell pretty fast that it was more breathable than its cotton counterparts. And at the end of a hot and humid New York City day, I didn’t notice the usual dampness I associate with my other T-shirts, no matter how airy. The fabric wasn’t sopping wet, and, blessedly, it wasn't clinging to my skin.
Merino wool's technical prowess was enough to pique my interest, but the fabric also lends the shirt something most people wouldn’t consider—a really great drape. Merino wool has an elegant, dressy feel that’s almost bouncy, so it won't make you look like you’re swimming in a smoothie of synthetic materials. At 16.5 microns, the superfine merino wool isn't quite in line with the standards of a Loro Piana suit, but it's leagues above those plastic-wrapped multipack tees you're used to. Plus, the silhouette is just slim enough, which makes it great as an undershirt. (If you prefer your tees big and boxy, this one's not for you.)
As for Proof’s grand claims of odorlessness…well, it likely varies on a case by case basis. At the end of its three day run (I'm nothing if not committed), the tee wasn’t floating in a cloud of my personal bouquet. That said, I have the luxury of a washing machine at my disposal. But if I could only throw one T-shirt in a carry-on, I'm probably packing Proof's over the conventional cotton options.
Caring for the tee is pretty straightforward, if a touch more involved than usual. Proof suggests washing its 72-hour merino T-shirt inside out using a wool-specific detergent and cold water, either by hand or on the most gentle washing machine setting. Then just lay it flat to dry. If that sounds needlessly precious, I'd agree—except I found that washing it quickly by hand in the sink, and then and leaving it out to dry overnight, was way less cumbersome than I anticipated. And if you accidentally toss it in the dryer (I did once), it'll still keep its shape, though I wouldn't press your luck more than a couple of times.
The Verdict
Is it a bit pricey for a plain, solid-colored tee? Absolutely. It’s easy to see where your money goes, though. If you’re looking to trim the fat in your T-shirt drawer, you could make it through the week with just two or three of these, thereby dramatically cutting down your cost-per-wear (though the dozen-plus different colors might compel you to buy a whole bunch more). Interested in a different silhouette with the same benefits? Proof also uses its signature fabric to make polos, henleys, and long-sleeve tees, too.
So take it from me, a (semi)professional T-shirt critic: If you’re looking for the one tee that'll help you survive the warmer months feeling your freshest, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better alternative—but you should definitely still wash it.
