The line between the worlds of fashion and art has always been blurry. Beyond Fashion, a new exhibition at London’s Saatchi Gallery, argues that fashion photography, once mired in the mucky world of commerce, has finally risen above its station to attain the status of art. On the surface, this seems to be a claim of form and practice. ‘Fashion photography has always played the role of both thief and magician,’ Rosalind Jana writes, ‘ransacking other photographic genres, pinching from paintings, sculptures, theatre and film to conjure a dreamworld in which clothes become costumes for a different kind of life and desires are enacted or ominously twisted.’ The bigger story here is of a once-overlooked corner of photography now enjoying not only the institutional exhibitions and expert critical commentary that confer real artistic gravity, but access to a different kind of commercial arena – the art market.
Why might art and fashion, Jana asks, have reason for wanting to share the same bed? ‘Both are highly profitable industries for those at the top, who remain reliant on the exploitation of those at the bottom. Each thrives on a combination of perpetual novelty and valorising the dead. But they also possess qualities, or perhaps we can call them auras, that are useful to one another. Fashion, ever-changing creature that she is, likes to publicly justify her existence not by her shareholder value but her claims to artistry and visionary inspiration, her capacity to transform the wearer, fairytale-like, with a beautiful dress or must-have handbag. The artworld confers a useful legitimacy on her,’ Jana suggests, ‘a proximity… to the deeper cultural substance she may lack. In return, art is graced both with fashion’s conveniently deep pockets and a sprinkle of her glamour, or her cool, or the associated sheen of her household brand-name recognition.’
Read more: https://lnkd.in/e5jwkeCP
The LOEWE Fall Winter 2024 campaign beautifully marries historical elegance with modern artistry. Greta Lee embodies this fusion, showcasing how timeless craftsmanship can evolve. Jonathan Anderson's vision, paired with David Sims' photography, creates a narrative that is both nostalgic and forward-thinking. Kudos to the entire creative team for bringing such a rich, textured story to life. Excited to see more from LOEWE! #FashionInnovation #TimelessElegance