Why I don't regret my chaotic train journey through Europe

This could be a post about how poorly the European rail network actually works and that I have now given up the idea of staying on the ground and start to fly again. I'll be honest. The thought struck me during this 28h long, sleepless and in every way very poorly functioning return journey from Zurich to Stockholm.

But, that's not the insight I got when I wrote down my reflections on the last bit of my business and conference trip in Europe. No. My insight is something completely different. But for you to also understand it, I would like to start by describing how my round-trip travel through Europe went by train.

We start with our departure from Stockholm. Everything works fine. Departure Monday morning, Stockholm. Arriving in Berlin in the evening. Been able to work and prepare for the week's meetings and lectures throughout the trip. Lives in a hotel near the train station and has the next day take the opportunity to book 6 meetings in Berlin. A very productive day that ends at a restaurant with some of We Don’t Have Time's investors near the train station where the night train directly to Zurich departs at 22 in the evening.

Once aboard the night train towards Zurich, it turns out that the 1-class sleeping cabins are built for persons shorter than 185 cm. A somewhat claustrophobic experience if you are longer but overall everything went ok and after a good night's sleep (well a perfectly ok at least), my and my colleague arrive at Zurich Central Station at 9 in the morning.  

The week went well at a hectic pace. In total, we managed to conduct 26 meetings in Berlin and Zurich during the week, several of which we made contact via quick introductions when they heard that we had traveled a long way by train. Traveling as you learn provides many benefits.

Unfortunately also a number of disadvantages. We experienced this on our return journey.

Actually, we would have departed from Zurich at 22:00 by night train to Hamburg for further transport to Stockholm. But we noticed a day before that the night train ticket which is a 1st class ticket is not a sleeping wagon. It’s an ordinary seat (I don't understand who wants to buy expensive 1st class tickets in the middle of the night ??). Apparently, Deutsche Bahn has sold all sleeping trains (according to what people told us) and their night trains are thus very expensive sit-trains instead. We, therefore, manage to book a express train direct to Hamburg with departure at 17:00 instead. The plan was to stay the night at a hotel in Hamburg and await further connections to Copenhagen / Stockholm the following morning.

Once at the train station, the chaos began. The express train ticket we had bought that morning was canceled and instead we had to take a crowded slow-train to Basel. Then everything stopped working as it should. ALL train connections on our return trip failed. Below is a summary of the journey home:

1. In Zurich, the regular direct train was canceled so we had to go by a very slow train to Basel instead.
2. Once in Basel, we are waiting for the direct train that will never arrive. Fortunately, a local resident is pitying us and explaining how to proceed. Namely, to take the commuter train over to the German side of Basel where the train would connect from, He follows us all the way to the German side.
3. Of course in the German part of Basel we miss the direct train to Hamburg.
4. After three hours of waiting in Basel, we went on a direct train to Hamburg with only seating (the same one we had already bought a ticket for by mistake earlier).
5. This train broke down in Hanover and at 6:00 in the morning they shouted in the speakers that the train would no longer run. All passengers (the train was basically full) then ran out towards the opposite platform where an Austrian train which also went to Hamburg had stopped. Everyone threw themself in through the open doors while the Austrian conductors changed their duties and now acted as guards instead. With harsh expressions, they started screaming at us passengers who were making noise about the suitcases in their night-corridors. The atmosphere was upset and intimidating. Also between travelers. It was very obvious that we who came from the German train were not welcome on the Austrian train, it was believed that we were actually in Germany. After concrete threats from the Austrian prison guards (yes it felt so) to call in the police, we and the other passengers left the train.
6. We eventually boarded a later train but we missed our train to Copenhagen.
7. We managed to get help from some kind souls on the net, get help finding the last bus tickets and rushed to catch the bus to Copenhagen.

1. In the middle of the Autobahn, German police / customs drove us and ordered the bus to a temporary customs station. All travelers had to go out. X-ray their bags and stand in line and point out whose luggage was whose. At the same time, armed police officers were watching us behind sunglasses, and some of us on the bus with dark skin color had to go in behind a blanket to get a full-body visit. Our bus driver was really nervous. The atmosphere did not feel safe and great uncertainty prevailed if and when we were allowed to leave from there at all. After a long time we had to leave again.
2. Once we crossed the Danish border, it was again time for customs control. Everyone in the bus was once again allowed to show the passport and a guy stayed with the border police because of the passport. The internal market and free movement across borders in the EU felt far away!
3. As we approach Copenhagen we receive a text message that the last train from Copenhagen to Stockholm has been canceled! We need to go to Malmö and have 1 minute to run from the bus to the platform.
4. In Malmö we will only have 4 minutes to change the platform to the Stockholm train unless the train is delayed. Which of course it will be at the Swedish border, it is time again for new border checks and we need to show the passport again. But luckily, it only delays us by about 3 minutes. We had the last mint on our side (and a very kind conductor who did everything to speed the cops on our behalf)!
5. Finally onboard the train to Stockholm- PUH! The estimated arrival time is according to regular schedule 21.36! 

Exactly the same time that the trip would actually end. But without sleep and with a lot of stress. Instead of 3 exchanges, we got 7 exchanges. Not a single train worked as it should have. Instead of an open market in the EU, we received three customs duties. Instead of sleeping, we had to ride a stroller. Instead of being able to work on the trip, we were suspended and threatened to be imprisoned if we did not obey.

In short. The result of the trip was the same. We arrived. But the mess on the road is incredible. European train market does not work. It is incomprehensible information, difficult to book and the various countries and train companies cooperate very badly. There is much to do here and I am convinced that European trains will be better. Only next year, for example, Swedish SJ will start with the opportunity to book international travel through their ticket service. Just that would facilitate tremendously. Not to mention how good it can be if it really arranges functioning night trains with high comfort.

WHAT was the insight then?

Well the following: What I and my colleague got to experience is nothing compared to what millions of people today on the lam around the world are experiencing. To feel unwanted. Suspicious and unwelcome.

I have learned borders are now starting to be closed. Also within the EU which supposed to be an open market. That train companies and countries turn inwards. Instead of cooperating and helping each other they work against each other.  

The realization that our societies are starting to close themself is not a nice insight. And no reason why I will stop travel by train. On the contrary.

 Because we need to keep the world open. We need each other!

My positive insight from this journey is that in the midst of all this mess and madness, many people cooperate at their best. The angry border police and train guards fade in comparison to how much helpfulness and love we encountered along the way by fellow travelers and even helpful individuals working for the train companies. It's unbeatable.

And all this shows what we humans have the ability to turn the bad into something good, when it's needed most. And it also gives me hope. Unfortunately, for the knowledge I have about the climate crisis and the development of society, we will see more borders closing. We will see more of our social systems stop working. But in the midst of all this, more and more helpful individuals come to life. When our leaders do not lead, we start to lead each other. We help each other unselfishly and move on.

With that power, I am convinced that we can rebuild our societies. Begin to take care of each other and also meet the challenges and tough future we face. To both solve, manage and endure the climate crisis.

If I had flown I would have continued to burn co2 and never come to this insight. So with that said, I would like to conclude by saying a big thank you to the conductor from Deutsche Bahn on the last photo who failed to delay a connecting train by 5 minutes and as compensation came with a whole pile of chocolate and a handwritten note with possible ways to travel on.

Thanks for your help and kindness! 💚 Together we are the solution!

// Ingmar Rentzhog, ceo and founder of We Don't Have Time

We Don’t Have Time is the world’s largest social network for climate action. Together we are the solution to the climate crisis. But we are running out of time.

Join us: www.wedonthavetime.org