FOOD; Ways to Enliven the Home Barbecue

NOW that every fancy new restaurant seems to possess a charcoal grill, people are becoming increasingly more adventurous about the home barbecue. In addition to mesquite, grape-vine cuttings, hickory and apple woods are now widely available in stores and add an interesting smoky flavor to the food as it is cooked. Lemon rinds, bits of fruitwood or herb stalks can also be added to the fire.

Apart from sweet corn and tomatoes, vegetables have only recently been considered serious candidates for the outdoor grill. But almost every vegetable can be successfully grilled, from radicchio and leeks to eggplant and fennel. Before they are grilled, vegetables should be brushed with extra-virgin olive oil and seasoned with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Alfred Portale, chef of Gotham Bar and Grill in Manhattan, throws in wood chips or vine cuttings that have been soaked in water 10 minutes before the vegetables are cooked. He then covers the vegetables, using either a grill cover or foil roasting pan. When they are done, the vegetables are splashed with more olive oil, balsamic vinegar and fresh herbs. Leeks and fennel should be blanched before being grilled; potatoes should be cooked whole and unpeeled, then sliced into thick rounds and brushed with oil.

The Chef's Catalogue has a fine grilling rack for seafood, vegetables, chicken or meat, in its latest issue. Made of rustproof black porcelain enamel, it has small holes so that food won't fall through, and a half-inch-high edge on one side that makes it easier to turn fillets. The grill, which fits most conventional gas or charcoal grills, measures 16 by 12 inches and has two handles. It is available from the Chef's Catalogue, 3215 Commercial Ave., Northbrook, Ill. 60062. The telephone number is (312) 480-9400. It costs $22.99, plus $4.95 shipping. Grilled Swordfish With Tomatillo Sauce Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes 2 swordfish steaks about 1-inch thick (about 1 1/2 to 2 pounds) 2 tablespoons olive oil For the sauce: 3 cloves garlic, unpeeled 1 pound tomatillos 2 jalapeno chilies, seeded and sliced 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar (or to taste) Y cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Y cup fresh coriander leaves Coriander sprigs to garnish.

1. Cut the swordfish steaks in half. Wipe them dry with paper towels and coat them on both sides with the olive oil. Set aside.

2. Make the sauce. Boil the garlic for 10 minutes. Peel the cloves, mash them and set aside. Chop the tomatillos coarsely and put them in a saucepan with the chilies, sugar, wine and vinegar. Cook until soft, stirring frequently. Add the garlic. Taste to see if more sugar or vinegar is needed and season with salt and pepper. Add the butter to thicken the sauce.

3. Pour the sauce into a food processor with the garlic cloves and add the coriander leaves. Puree, taste and correct seasoning. Set aside.

4. Preheat broiler or coals. Broil the fish steaks six inches from the heat for about five minutes on each side or until cooked. Meanwhile, reheat the sauce.

5. To serve, pour some sauce on each of four individual plates. Put the steaks on top and sprinkle with coriander leaves.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: Sweet corn, stewed black beans or sauteed potatoes go well with this dish. Grilled Radicchio Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 10 to 15 minutes 4 heads radicchio, halved 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (or to taste) 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1. Preheat coals.

2. Cut the radicchio heads in half. Brush all over with half the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3. Place the radicchio on a rack and grill, turning once, until the leaves are lightly charred and wilted. Sprinkle with the remaining oil, vinegar and thyme leaves and serve.

Yield: 4 servings.

Note: This goes particularly well with chicken, lamb or tuna. Grilled Veal Kidneys With Sage and Pancetta Preparation time: 30 minutes unattended, 20 minutes attended Cooking time:

About 10 to 15 minutes 4 veal kidneys About 20 sage leaves 1/2 pound pancetta, thinly sliced Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper.

1. Soak about 10 small wooden skewers in water for 30 minutes. Preheat broiler.

2. Trim the fat and filament from the kidneys and cut them in pieces about one-inch thick. Place the sage leaves on top of the kidneys, wrap in a slice of pancetta and thread on a skewer. Continue this way until you have threaded all the kidneys on skewers. There should be two small skewers a person.

3. Broil the kidneys about six inches from the heat until they are cooked to desired doneness. Do not overcook or they will be tough. They are at their best when pink in the middle. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Yield: 4 servings

Note: This is good with grilled polenta, made according to package instructions. Pour onto square pan and cool. Cut into pieces three inches long and two inches wide and brush with olive oil. Broil until lightly browned and crisp. Do not turn over.