How to Do an At-Home Chemical Peel—It's Not as Scary as It Sounds

Experts break down at-home chemical peels vs. professional peels.

Though the term can sound a little daunting, chemical peels are a legitimate game changer. Most people can benefit from incorporating one into their skincare routine. While strong chemical peels that penetrate deeply are best performed under the care of a professional and within a clean, clinical setting, you can indulge in a very mild chemical peel at home. We’re diving into more details about what an at-home chemical peel is like, how to DIY this beauty treatment safely, and tips from experts to keep in mind.

  • Merry Thornton, PA-C is a board-certified physician assistant and the founder of Element Medical Aesthetics.
  • Kaylee Esplin is a master esthetician for SkinSpirit.

What Is a Chemical Peel? 

Chemical peels are a skincare treatment that utilizes chemicals—typically alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or enzymes—to peel away the top layers of the skin. By removing dead skin cells, a chemical peel can treat discoloration, scars, and wrinkles. The process reveals a fresh, bright, and youthful complexion almost immediately, which makes it very appealing.

“They can also stimulate the growth of new cells to improve the appearance of fine lines and dark spots,” says Merry Thornton of Element Medical Aesthetics.

While most common for the face, chemical peels can be done anywhere on the body. How deep the chemical peel penetrates the skin varies and depends on your skin's sensitivity and needs.

At-Home Chemical Peel vs. Professional Chemical Peel

At-home chemical peels are classified as superficial, which means only the outermost layer is removed. In other words, they’re usually much gentler compared to professional peels. To get technical, at-home peels remove the epidermis (outermost) layers of skin, while deep professional peels can penetrate as deep as the upper part of the dermis (middle layer). 

“This can result in faster and more drastic results, but with more downtime,” Thornton notes. “Superficial peels are also done in dermatologist offices for those looking for an in-office treatment with low downtime.”

At-home peels usually contain an enzyme or AHAs, such as lactic, malic, salicylic, mandelic, glycolic acid, or a combination. Thornton tells us that the results are less dramatic compared to a professional chemical peel. However, a bonus is that they involve no downtime and, with consistent usage, can improve the look of texture, fine lines, pigmentation, skin tone, and even acne.

Chemical Peel Strengths 

At-home chemical peels range from mild to strong, but none will be as strong as a deep chemical peel performed by a professional. Here are some of the standard chemical peel strengths.

  • Mild: “Mild peels typically use alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are derived from fruit and milk,” explains Kaylee Esplin of SkinSpirit. “These peels are suitable for most skin types.” 
  • Medium: Medium-strength chemical peels use beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, which are effective for treating acne-prone skin. Or they may contain higher percentages of AHAs or BHAs. 
  • Strong: “Stronger peels, such as those that use trichloroacetic acid (TCA), should only be done by a professional,” notes Esplin.

How to Do a Chemical Peel at Home

If you wish to treat your skin with an at-home chemical peel, it's important to learn more about the process. Here are a few key tips and instructions for completing a peel at home.

The first rule of an at-home chemical peel is to follow the label instructions exactly. Some peels may require more or less frequent use or may have a recommendation for how long the product sits on your skin before being rinsed.

Considerations Before Starting

Be aware of how long you leave the chemical peel on your skin. One of the most common mistakes people make with at-home chemical peels is over-exfoliating the skin, or leaving the solution on the skin for too long. This can cause skin irritation, redness, and even scarring.

“The use of at-home chemical peels can be complemented with other skin care treatments or products, but it is important to be cautious and follow recommended guidelines to avoid over-exfoliation or skin irritation,” notes Esplin. “Before combining chemical peels with other treatments or products, it is advisable to consult with a dermatologist or esthetician to determine the best course of action for your skin type and concerns.”

“Additionally, it's a good idea to start with a lower strength peel and gradually work your way up to higher strengths as your skin becomes more accustomed to the treatment,” adds Esplin. “It is also essential to protect the skin from the sun after a chemical peel, as the skin may be more sensitive and prone to damage.”

With that information in mind, here’s a simple step-by-step process for giving yourself an at-home chemical peel with an approved, over-the-counter product.

Step 1: Wash and Dry

Cleanse your face with a gentle face wash and warm water, then gently pat dry with a clean, soft towel. Always start with a clean face before applying a chemical peel.

Step 2: Apply Peel

Apply the chemical peel to freshly cleansed skin and allow it to set for the recommended duration. Set a timer to help avoid leaving it on too long. Using a clean cosmetic brush can help ensure an even application.

Step 3: Rinse

Rinse your face with lukewarm water, making sure to remove the peel completely. You may need to re-wash with a cleanser if it’s a sticky or stubborn peel.

Step 4: Moisturize

Follow up with non-active skincare products, such as a moisturizing toner or serum and face cream. Treating the skin after a chemical peel is vital since your skin is exposed and dead cells have been removed.

Are At-Home Chemical Peels Approved For All Skin Types?

Mild to medium at-home chemical peels are generally suitable for most skin types. However, if you have very sensitive skin or allergies, then it may be best to avoid them altogether.

Thornton also recommends proceeding with caution if you have very dry skin or a skin condition, such as rosacea. You can still enjoy peels, but it’s best to choose gentle and hydrating acids—such as lactic and glycolic—in low percentages.

How Often Should You Do Chemical Peels?

The ideal frequency of at-home chemical peels ultimately depends on the strength of the peel, your skin type, and your skin’s tolerance. Very mild acid treatments can be performed once every couple of days, while medium-strength peels are ideal every two weeks.

Esplin says, “This allows enough time for your skin to heal and recover from the treatment. If you have sensitive skin, you may need to wait longer between peels or use a lower-strength product.” 

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Sources
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  1. Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels: A Review of Fundamentals and Step-by-step Algorithmic Protocol for TreatmentThe Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology. 2018;11(8):21-28.

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