1949-1950-1951 Ford Passenger Car Shop Manual
1949-1950-1951 Ford Passenger Car Shop Manual
This manual combines under one cover complete service information for the 1949-50-51 Ford
Passenger Cars. All aspects of the servicing of
the parts, assemblies, or systems involved will be
found here. Repair men will find step by step
procedures plus disassembled views of all of the
assemblies used in these models. The diagnostician will find that working procedures for each
kind of trouble he will encounter are covered.
Maintenance and lubrication data is provided
for those interested in this aspect of service.
Service Managers and salesmen will find hints
of everyday care that they can pass on to their
customers. Collision men will find construction
detail well illustrated to assist them in collision
work. Electrical men will find simply written
principles, not only of operation, but of testing
as well fc,!ach of the electrical units or systems.
Upholstery men will find how-to-do-it procedures
for their work.
Step-by-step procedures for the disassembly,
inspection, and repair are presented throughout
this manual. In addition, each assembly has been
illustrated disassembled, with each of the component parts arranged in the order of assembly
or disassembly. In many cases, a glance at these
illustrations will tell you all you need to know
about how the parts go together. These illustrations carry basic part numbers for each of the
parts. These basic numbers plus the model number of the car will permit you to order parts
from any Ford dealer even though you may not
have a "Parts Book."
In recognition of the specialization that is currently practiced in many service establishments,
this manual has been divided into five major
divisions. These five parts are as follows:
Part ONEPOWER PLANThas to do with
the Ford engines and the various systems that
are necessary to their operation. These include
fuel system, ignition system, and the cooling
system.
Part TWOCHASSISstarting with the
clutch, covers the entire power train (clutch,
transmission, drive line, rear axles, etc.) and the
running gear (wheels, tires, brakes, springs, suspension, frames, steering gear, and linkages, etc.).
Part THREEELECTRICAL AND ACCESSORIEScovers all of the electrical systems
and units (other than ignition which is covered
CHAPTER IIACCESSORIES
Page
Section 1 Radio
2 Heater
3 Overdrive
181
190
194
Page
201
202
Part FOUR-BODIES
CHAPTER I - B O D Y CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE
Section 1 Construction Details
2 Alignment
204
210
Section 3
4
216
218
220
224
. 225
231
234
235
238
241
243
250
252
255
Section 5
259
262
263
264
207
269
274
Section 4
5
Lubrication
Preventive Maintenance.
276
278
281
291
292
292
302
306
306
CHAPTER IIISPECIFICATIONS
Section 1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
308
308
308
309
310
310
313
314
Section 9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Fuel System
Generating System.
Starting System. .
Ignition
Lights and Horns
Wiring Diagrams. . .
Tools and Equipment
. , . 314
315
315
316
316
317
319
Part ONE
POWER PLANT
Chapter
H-Series 6-Cyimder
Section
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
'
'
5
7
......'.-. 8
g
0
n
21
;
12
...
.. 15
. .
ig
24
29
a. r e m o v a l .
Remove the hood and battery. Drain the crankcase
and cooling system. Disconnect the upper radiator hose
1013
^^
1551
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
Tool6000-P
1173
1532
Fig. 3-7.951 H-Series 6-CyUnder Engine <3A Rear View)
b. Installation.
Remove the engine from the workstand. With the
engine hanging on the hoist, install the manifold assembly. Shift the transmission into gear. Raise the transmission until it just touches the floor pan. Center the
clutch release bearing on the clutch and lower the engine
into the compartment carefully. Start the transmission
main shaft into the clutch.
1143
1174
wire, the oil pressure sender wire, and the ignition switch
to coil wire.
Install the radiator. Connect the radiator and heater
hoses. Install the battery, hood, and air cleaner. Fill the
crankcase with the proper grade and amount of engine oil.
Fill the cooling system according to the prevailing temperature. Run the engine and check for leaks in the system.
2. MANIFOLDS
A chamber is built into the intake manifold center
section where the carburetor and exhaust manifold are
attached. An exhaust control valve, located in. the exhaust manifold, directs exhaust gases into this chamber
when the engine is cold to provide for quicker warm-up
during starting.
a. Removal.
Remove air cleaner. Disconnect hot water heater hose
at water pump. Disconnect distributor vacuum line at
carburetor. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor. Disconnect accelerator linkage at both sides of the bell crank
and at the carburetor. Remove carburetor. Disconnect
windshield wiper hose. Remove the screw holding the
intake manifold baffle assembly to cylinder head. Remove
the top nut from the engine right front support bracket
and remove the intake manifold baffle assembly. Disconnect muffler inlet pipe from exhaust manifold. Remove manifold hold down nuts and lift both manifolds
and gaskets from the block. Remove nuts holding manifolds together and separate the manifolds (fig. 7).
c. Inspection.
Inspect the manifolds for cracks especially around the
heat chamber in the intake manifold. Make sure all
gasket surfaces are free from projections that may
interfere with sealing. Place a straight edge across the
port openings. The manifold should touch the straight
edge at all points. Replace the manifold if faulty.
d. Installation.
Use new manifold gaskets as shown in fig. 8.
Fasten the manifolds together (30-35 foot-pounds
torque). Place the manifolds on the engine block. Tighten
the nuts to 25-30 foot-pounds torque, starting in the
center and working outward. Install the carburetor,
then connect the windshield wiper hose. Connect the
accelerator linkage at bell crank and carburetor. Connect
the fuel line and the distributor vacuum line to the carburetor. Fasten the intake manifold baffle assembly to
the cylinder head. Install the top nut on the engine front
support bracket. Connect the muffler inlet pipe to the
b. Cleaning.
Remove all old gaskets and scrape the gasket surfaces
on the manifolds and the block. Scrape the carbon and
INTAKE
MANIFQLD9424
ACCELERATOR BELL
CRANK9724
EXHAUST
MANIFOLD9426
in
357692-S
EXHAUST THERMOSTAT
COUNTERWEIGHT9458
1519
CENTER GASKET
REAR GASKET
FRONT GASKET
9448
9441
9442
ig. 8-Manifold
1145
Gasket Set
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
3. CYLINDER HEAD
Cylinder heads are cast from the same high grade iron
as is used for the cylinder block. Expansion and contraction due to temperature variations is the same for
both head and block lessening the possibility of cylinder
head distortion.
NOTE: The OHM-6050 cylinder head is interchangeable with the 7HA-6050 cylinder head.
The cylinder head removal, cleaning, inspection, and
installation is given below.
a. Removal.
Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the radiator hose
from the cylinder head. Disconnect the lead from the
cylinder head temperature sending unit. Remove the
screw from distributor vacuum line clamp on forward
left corner of cylinder head. Disconnect the ignition
wires from the spark plugs and remove the plugs. Remove
the two screws from the coil bracket and let the bracket
hang from the distributor. Disconnect the heater hose.
Remove the screw from the intake manifold air baffle
assembly on the right side of the cylinder head. Remove
the cylinder head bolts and remove the cylinder head.
b. Cleaning.
Remove carbon from the combustion chambers with
a scraper and stiff wire brush. Be careful not to scratch
the machined surfaces on the cylinder head. Remove the
rust and dirt from the water passages.
c. Inspection.
Check the cylinder head for cracks or warped surfaces.
Check to see that water passages are open and the head
is clean. Make sure the head and block gasket surfaces
are free from grease, dirt, and raised projections that
may occur at screw holes.
d. Installation,
NOTE: Do not enlarge any gasket holes or over'
heating of the rear cylinders may result.
Install a new cylinder head gasket (fig. 9) with the
cut off corner at the left front corner of the block.
a. Oil Pan.
For servicing 1949, 1950, and 1951 cars with standCYLINDER HEAD GASKET
1133
1132
Fig. 10Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence
22507-S
COVER AND INLET TUBE-6615
GASKET-6626
34846-S
20346-S
PACKING
6702
GASKET-6710
PACKING6700
PACKING
6707
34846-S
20346-S
GASKET-6710
OIL PAN-6675
1000
engine block and the front cover plate. Remove the oil
pan from the engine fig. 11.
(2) CLEANING. Use a solvent to remove the sludge
and dirt from both the inside and outside of the oil pan.
Scrape the old gasket flange. Clean the oil sump strainer.
(3) INSPECTION. Inspect the oil pan for any external damage such as cracks or warped gasket surfaces.
Inspect the drain plug threads for damage that may
cause leakage. Check oil sump strainer for crimped passages. Repair any damage and cracks, or replace the pan
if repairs cannot be made.
(4) OIL SEAL INSTALLATION. Remove the oil
packing and thoroughly clean packing retainer grooves.
Soak packing (fig. 12) for two hours in S A E 20 oil
before installation. Install the short packing in the retainer grooves. "Roll-in" the packing with a round bar
(fig. 13), make sure the packing meets the gasket evenly.
(5) INSTALLATION. Spread a thin film of grease on
the oil pan gasket surface to hold the gasket in place
during installation. Install a new gasket (fig. 12) on the
pan. Lift the pan into place and install the screws that
hold oil pan to block and front cover plate. Torque the
screws to 15-18 foot-pounds.
NOTE: Alignment of oil pan can be simplified byusing two studs in opposite corners of the block.
Fig. 13-"Roll-in"
1157
b. Oil Pump.
The rotor type oil pump is used on the 6-cylinder
series engine and is externally mounted. In order to remove the oil pump with the engine in the chassis, it is
necessary to raise the front of the engine so that the
pump will clear the frame side rail when it is pulled out.
NOTE: The oil pump and camshaft gear back lash
should be 0.003-0.005 inch.
Before removing the oil pump check the back lash
between the oil pump driven gear and the camshaft gear.
This can be done by moving the distributor rotor and
checking the distributor shaft free play. The rotor free
play should be less than x/i inch.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect the right hand front
engine support. Disconnect the radiator hoses. Raise the
engine so the pump will clear the frame when removed.
72432-SOIL PUMP
DRIVEN GEAR
6652-
Install the screws that hold the oil pan to the engine
rear plate. Torque screws to 10-15 foot-pounds. Install
Part Nt. V H A 6 W
34805-S
^PACKING-6702
GASKET-6710
1144
21531-S
Fig. 14Rotor Type Oil Pump Disassembled
1081
10
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
THICKNESS
OUTER ROTOR
INNER ROTOR
INNER ROTOR
1134
OUTER ROTOR
1082
OUTER ROTOR.
Feeler Gage
.INNER ROTOR
OUTER ROTOR
PUMP BODY
1135
SHAPT
1136
11
GASKET-6669
Straight, Edge
PLUNGER-6663
PLUG-6666
Feeler Cage
PUMP COVER
SPRING-6654
1137
1525
Fig. 21-Q'J
5. CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
The 6-cylinder engine is equipped with either a viscous
type or a rubber type damper. The damper outside diameters are different, requiring two timing pointers on
the engine front cover. Both type dampers can be replaced with the engine in the car. Figure 22 shows the
stamped dampers used on 1949-50 engines. Malleable
interchangeable iron dampers are used on 1951 engines.
a. Removal.
b. Installation.
Align keyway in damper with Woodruff key on shaft
and press damper into place.
a. Removal.
Remove the radiator. Remove the damper. Remove
the two screws that hold the oil pan to the front cover.
Remove the cover retaining screws and remove the cover.
DRIVEN GEAR
PUMP BODY
Thickness Gauge
1050
1139
Chapter l-H-Series-6-Cylinder
12
LOCKS^-6518
SPRING6513
SCREW
6549
TAPPET ASSEMBLY
6500
RETAINER
6514
VALVE
INTAKE6507
EXHAUST6505
\
GUIDE6510
1142
d. Installation,
b. Inspection.
Inspect the cover for cracks or a damaged gasket surface. Replace if cover is cracked or damaged.
engines. This type of valve has a two piece spring retainer differing from the single piece spring retainers.
Rotatable valves and parts can be installed in engines
not so equipped by changing the spring retainer, intake
valve, and exhaust valve.
Openings in the valve chamber should be covered before removing valves to prevent valve locks from falling
into the oil pan.
As parts of the valve assemblies are removed, tag or
otherwise identify them so they can be installed for reassembly in the valve port from which they were removed.
(1) REMOVAL.
NOTE: When removing valves with the engine in
the vehicle, remove the right front wheel and the
front fender apron panel in addition to the following procedure.
Remove the cylinder head. Remove the manifolds.
Remove the valve chamber covers. Crank the engine
until the tappet rests on the heel of the cam. Compress
the valve spring and remove the valve spring retainer
locks. Remove the valve. Remove the valve spring and
spring retainer as shown in fig. 27. The valve spring retaining sleeve used with rotatable valves will remain on
Tool6306-N
RETAINER-6514
LOCKS-6518
VALVE
1141
Fig. 24Damper Replacer
\ INTAKE-6507
1EXHAUST-6505
SPRING-6513
SLEEVE-6517
1728
1147
13
1086
Bore gouge
valve spring6513
1037
Fig. 28Checking Valve Spring Pressure
1042
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
14
1035
Fig. 33-Correct
1040
valve, lower the valve and seat locks with your finger.
Release tne spring slowly while holding the locks in place.
Install the valve chamber covers. Install the manifolds
and the cylinder head.
b. Seats.
Special alloy valve seat inserts are pressed into the
T
INTAKE VALVE
GUIDE
EXHAUST VALVE
GUIDE
1041
TOOL6518-N
TOOL6513-R
15
c. Tappet Adjustment.
The adjustable type tappet (fig. 37) has a self-locking
adjustment screw requiring no lock nut. The valve clearance is adjusted by the use of two open end wrenches,
one holding the tappet body and the other turning the
adjusting bolt. The adjustment is illustrated in fig. 38.
Valve gap settings are 0.013-0.015 inch for intake and
0.017-0.019 inch for exhaust valves when used with the
new camshaft with the letter "O" stamped on the forward end. For old camshafts with no letter stamping, set
intake at 0.009-0.011 inch and exhaust at 0.013-0.015 inch.
a. Camshaft Gear.
The bolt-on type timing gear is secured to the camshaft gear hub by four screws which are locked with
retaining tabs. The mounting holes are spaced to make
it impossible to install the gear incorrectly. The cam1
shaft gear hub can be replaced as shown in figs. 39 and 40.
The pressed-on type gear is pressed on the camshaft
and is located on the shaft by a key. Two types of
pressed-on gears are used. One type has two tapped holes
in the hub and the other does not have any holes.
All oversize camshaft gears can be identified by the
pitch diameter stamped on the outer edge of the gear.
(1) REMOVAL. If the engine is in the vehicle, access
to the camshaft gear can be obtained by removing the
radiator. Then remove the vibration damper. Remove
EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERT6057
Drill hub with the special tool as shown in fig. 42 to relieve the press fit.
Remove the gear with a puller as shown in fig. 43.
(2) INSTALLATION.
When the timing gear is installed be sure the timing marks on the camshaft gear
and the crankshaft are aligned as shown in fig. 44. After
installing the gear, check the gear backlash. The backlash should be between 0.001 to 0.002 inch.
ADJUSTABLE TYPE
1025
16
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
Thickness Gauge
1032
Fig. 38Adjusting Tappets
THRUST PLATE
h. Camshaft.
Late 1950 engines are equipped with an OHA-6250
camshaft which replaces the 7HA-6250-C camshaft used
in the 1949 and early 1950 engines. This camshaft can be
identified by the letter "O" stamped on the forward end
of the camshaft. The 1951 engines are equipped with an
OHA-6250-B which can be identified by the letter " B "
stamped on the forward end of the camshaft.
The undercut at the point where the camshaft gear
post joins the camshaft proper was eliminated on the
OHA-6250 camshaft and a radius was incorporated. This
Tool-6269-N
THRUST PLATE
1199
Fig. 40Removing Camshaft Gear Hub
CAMSHAFT
-6256
20310-S
34906-S
I
CAMSHAFT6250
1196
Fig. 39Installing Camshaft Gear Hub
Him
R9RA
KEY
74147-S
LOCKING
1063
Fig. 41Bolt-on Type Camshaft Gear and Camshaft
Disassembled
TIMING MARKS
17
1188
(1) REMOVAL. Remove the cylinder heads, manifolds, and valves. Lift the valve tappet assembly and
hold in the up position with spring clothespins or rubber bands.
NOTE: If engine is on an engine stand and the valves
have been removed, invert the block to eliminate
tappet interference.
Loosen the oil pump. Remove the front cover and the
camshaft gear. Remove the thrust plate. Remove the
camshaft by pulling it through the bearings.
NOTE: Exercise care so that the camshaft bearings
are not damaged by the lobes on the camshaft.
If engine is mounted in car, remove the grille and
radiator to permit removing camshaft.
(2) INSPECTION. Check the camshaft journal surface for grooves or scratches.
Measure the diameter of the journals with a microm-
1028
1190
18
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
1186
Fig. 48Removing Camshaft Bearings
Tool6256- BB
1071
a.
Crankshaft.
The function of the crankshaft is to convert the reciprocating motion of the piston into the rotary motion of
the driveshaft.
The crankshaft is made of cast alloy steel with integral
counterweights and is dynamically and statically bal350816-S
y-355599-S
I RETAINER7609 / y-34846-S
J
/
<*L.X
^^///
/ //-MAIN BEARING-6331
-GASKET RETAINER-6335
PACKING6701
6344
i-PACKING-6700
GEAR-6306
OIL SLINGER
6310
20639-s
PACKING
6702
MAIN BEARING
6331
351582-S
MAIN B
1164
PACKING6707
KEYS74153-S
MAIN BEARINGS
6333
1044
19
NOTE: Any engine that has experienced rod or piston failure must have all the oil passages thoroughly
cleaned before rebuilding the engine.
A bearing showing signs of excessive wear on one side
of the bearing half (fig. 53) indicates a tapered bearing
journal. The journal should be reground to the next
undersize to remove the taper and undersize bearings
installed. Similarly, bearings showing excessive wear at
the center or end of the bearing around the circumference
(fig. 54) indicate high spots on the bearing journal which
should be corrected before the engine is rebuilt.
Bearings that show bright sections across the back of
the bearing (fig. 55) indicate the bearings have been loose
in the bore either because of an undersize outside diameter, because of the bearing bore being too large, or by
the bearing not having sufficient "crush."
Grooved or scored main bearing or crank pin journals
will cause bearing failure and should be machined or the
crankshaft should be replaced. Light scores or scratches
can be removed with a hone, then polished with No. 320
grit polishing paper.
JOURNALS.
Chapter IH-Series-6-Cylinder
20
JOURNALS.
Part Number
OHA-6333-A
OHA-6333-B
7HA-6333-A
7HA-6333-B
7HA-6333-C
7HA-6333-D
7HA-6333-E
Size
Standard *
Standard**
Standard
0.002 inch U / S
0.010 inch U / S
0.020 inch U / S
0.030 inch U / S
Crankshaft
Diameter
(Inches)
2.8736/2.8740
2.8732/2.8736
2.8732/2.8740
2.8649
2.8559
2.8459
Size
Standard
Standard**
Standard
0.002 inch U / S
0.010 inch U / S
0.020 inch U / S
0.030 inch U / S
Crankshaft
Diameter
(Inches)
2.8736/2.8740
2.8732/2.8736
2.8732/2.8740
c. Main Bearings.
Steel backed copper lead insert bearings are used in
the four main bearings supports of the engine. These
bearings are held in place with indentations on the end
of the insert which locate themselves in machined notches
in the cylinder block and cap when installed.
Care should be used in fitting main bearings since the
crankshaft carries the entire engine load. Lubrication
must be maintained or the main bearings will wear out
rapidly with possible damage to the crankshaft journals.
Crankshaft end thrust is controlled by the rear main
bearing flange.
Bearing inserts are precision manufactured and are
ordered by size to re-establish the manufacturer's tolerance when the engine is overhauled. The bearing
inserts can be removed and replaced without removing
the crankshaft.
(1) REPLACEMENT
WITHOUT
REMOVING
CRANKSHAFT.
After the bearing cap has been removed, a special tool designed for removing the upper
bearing insert may be inserted in the oil hole in the
crankshaft as shown in fig. 56. Figure 57 shows the tool
in position ready to bear against the insert. When the
crankshaft is rotated in the direction opposite to engine
rotation the tool will force out the bearing insert.
2.8649
2.8559
2.8459
1158
21
1161
SCRATCHES
1163
(3) FITTING
MAIN BEARINGS
(SHIM
RADII RIDE
SCRATCHES
1162
Tool-6331
CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL
1130
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
22
Flattened Plastic
d. Crankshaft Gear.
The crankshaft gear is attached to front end of the
crankshaft.
(1) INSPECTION. When it is necessary to replace
the camshaft gear, it is advisable to inspect the crankshaft gear. Check the crankshaft gear for chipped,
cracked, or worn teeth. Check the crankshaft gear runout. The maximum allowable runout is 0.0015 inch.
(2) REMOVAL. To remove the crankshaft gear it is
CRANKSHAFT-6303
CRANKSHAFT GEAR-6306
Crankshaft Gear
GRADUATED CONTAINER
1181
Pu//er--6306-C
1048
23
engine cover, the oil slinger, the oil pan, and the front
main bearing cap. Remove the gear with a crankshaft
gear puller. The crankshaft and the crankshaft gear
puller are shown infig.60.
(3) INSTALLATION.
Check the condition of the
bore, keyway, and teeth of the crankshaft gear. Install
the Woodruff key. Start the gear on the shaft making
sure the keyway aligns with the key and the timing
marks are away from the engine block. Position the
crankshaft gear installing tool on the crankshaft, making sure the puller stud is fully threaded into the crankshaft. Assemble the sleeve and wing nut and tighten the
nut pulling the gear firmly into place (fig. 61).
e. Flywheel
The flywheel acts to carry over and smooth out the
separate thrusts of each piston. The rear face of the flywheel is used as a friction surface which is engaged by
the clutch plate. The flywheel ring gear which is engaged
by the starter pinion when starting, is secured to the
flywheel by a shrink fit.
(1) INSPECTION. The flywheel should be cleaned
and inspected. Flywheels that have a burned or scored
1049
Tool
6384-N
Fig. 62-Checking
Flywheel Runout
1179
Fig. 63Pulling Flywheel
with Puller
CUTTER BLADE
SHOE
1153
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
24
push the rod and piston assembly out the top of the
cylinder with the handle end of a hammer. Install the
bearing cap on the connecting rod. Repeat this procedure
for each assembly.
Remove the engine from the car. Remove the oil pan
and cylinder head.
Before removing a piston from the engine, remove
any ridges that may be present along the upper part of
each cylinder.
Move the piston to the bottom of its travel and place
a cloth on the piston head to collect the cuttings. Position
the ridge remover in the cylinder and adjust the ridge
remover pilot to the cylinder size. Make sure the cutter
is at the top side of the roller bar and that the cutter
does not extend beyond the roller. Make sure the ridge
remover shoes are tight. Hold the ridge remover tightly
against the block and turn the arbor clockwise with a
wrench (fig. 64).
BEARINGS
6211"
Groove Cleaning Tool
P.STONP.N
6135
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY-6200
"
6140
NUTS
6212
1054
1574
Fig. 66Cleaning Piston Ring Grooves
25
(1) CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS. Replace bearing inserts that are scored, have the overlay wiped out,
show fatigue failure, or are badly scratched (figs. 50
through 55).
Install the bearing inserts in the cap and rod section.
The bearing should snap into place and remain there. If
the bearing slides in freely and will fall out readily, the
bearing has lost its spread and should be replaced. Check
the inside edge of the bearing at the parting line for sharp
burrs. Remove the burrs if any are apparent. The part-
PISTON PIN
CONNECTING R
Connecting Rod
Aligner
1060
Fig. 68Checking Connecting Rod Alignment
CONNECTING ROD
1 0 57
1017
Fig. 69Measuring Cylinder Bore
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
26
e. Fitting Pistons.
Proper assembly tolerances of pistons are required if
satisfactory engine; operation is to be obtained. Cylinder
bores must be checked for taper and out of round condition before fitting a piston.
Before installing a piston and new rings in a used
block, remove the high polish on the cylinder wall to
aid ring seating by passing a hone through the cylinder
bore a few times. Do not hone more than enough to
rough up the polish. Make sure that wet rags are placed
in the bore to catch the hone dust and that the cylinder
is thoroughly cleaned before installing the piston.
To fit a new piston in a new bore, attach a tension
scale to the end of a feeler ribbon x/i inch wide and having the correct feeler ribbon thickness as given in Table 2.
Position the feeler ribbon on the thrust side of the
piston (camshaft side) 90 from the piston pin hole.
Invert the piston, then push the piston in the cylinder so
the end is about Y^ i n c h below the top of the block. Keep
the piston pin bores parallel with the camshaft. Pull out
the feeler gauge while noting the reading (fig. 70).
The pull limits for new pistons and used pistons in
new or used bores is given in Table 2.
7HA
OHA
0.003
6-12
0.002
3-12
0.003
6-12
0.002
3-12
0.003
6-12
0.003
3-12
1055
27
If the scale reading is greater than the maximum allowable pull, try another piston or hone the cylinder bore to
obtain the proper fit. If the scale reading is less than the
minimum allowable pull, try another piston. If none can
be fitted, rebore cylinders to next oversize (Table 3).
Type
7HA-6108-A
Standard
3.2996-3.3008
7HA6108-D
0.020 inchO.S.*
3.3180-3.3190
7HA-6108-E
0.030 inch O.S.
3.3280-3.3290
7HA-6108-F
0.040 inch O.S.
3.3380-3.3390
7HA-6108-G
0.060 inch O.S.
3.3580-3.3590
OHA-6108-A
Standard
3.3003-3.3015
OHA-6108-B
0.0025 inch O.S.
3.3016-3.3028
OHA-6108-C
0.020 inch O.S.
3.3191-3.3203
OHA-6108-D
0.030 inch O.S.
3.3291-3.3303
OHA-6108-E
0.040 inch O.S.
3.3391-3.3403
OHA-6108-F
0.060 inch O.S.
3.3591-3.3603
*O.S. means oversize.
There are four pistons of each type (standard and
oversize) with skirt diameter variation in steps of
0.0003 inch for selective fitting of OHA pistons.
cut, then repeat the procedure outlined until a piston
pin fit is obtained.
Similarly ream all the pistons in which pins need to
be fitted, checking each with the pin to be used in the
piston.
1581
1206
Chapter IH-Series6-CyIinder
28
.0.0015-0.0030
.0.0010-0.0025
.0.0010-0.0025
0.0010-0.0025
0,007-0.047
0.007-0.047
0.007-0.047
0.007-0.047
Ring
NOTE: When the steel section OHA ring sets are not
available, the steel section 7HA may be used on the
OHA piston by installing the oil ring expander in the
3rd groove rather than in the 4th groove as specified
on the 7HA pistons.
WALL
111
|*
liii
TAPER
CYLINDER
WALL
.^^TAPER
CYLINDER
WALL
INNER RING-
SLOTTED CAST
IRON OIL RING
INNER RING
EXPANDER TYPE
COMPRESSION RING
STEEL SECTION
COMPRESSION RING
A CYLINDER
WALL
RING LAND
SLOTTED CASTv
IRON OIL RING
CYLINDER
WALL
-CYLINDER
WALL
STEEL
SECTION
BEVEL
INNER RING-
SLOTTED CAST
IRON OIL RING
STEEL
-SECTION
CAST IRON
SECTION
-CAST
IRON RING
INNER RING
CYLINDER
WALL
--CYLINDER
WALL
1087
k. Assembly.
Lubricate all parts with light engine oil.
29
1. Installation.
Oil the cylinder wall with light engine oil. Make sure
the ring gaps are equally spaced around the circumference of the piston. Compress the rings with a compressing
tool and tap the piston down with a soft faced hammer
(fig. 74) until it is slightly below the top of the cylinder.
NOTE: Install the OHA type piston with the indentation in the piston head toward the front of the engine.
Turn the crankshaft throw down. Oil the crank pin
and push the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crank pin. Install the bearing cap
(line up the stamped numbers) and tighten the retaining
nuts to 45-50 foot-pounds torque. Install new lock nuts
and tighten to 4-5 foot-pounds torque.
Install the oil pan and cylinder heads. Install the engine in the car. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade
and amount of lubricant. Fill the cooling system.. Start
the engine and run it slowly. Make sure there is sufficient
oil pressure. Check the temperature to make sure the
engine does not overheat. Overheating can be caused by
too tight bearings.
a. Muffler Replacement.
Extra heavy double-wall construction mufflers are
available for service.
(1) REMOVAL. Loosen muffler inlet and outlet pipe
clamps. Slide clamps away from the muffler, the inlet
pipe, and the outlet pipe. Loosen front and rear outlet
pipe clamps and disengage outlet pipe from muffler by
sliding the outlet pipe to the rear. Remove the muffler
from the inlet pipe.
(2) INSTALLATION. Place muffler in position on
the inlet pipe and slide outlet pipe into the muffler. Place
the inlet pipe and the outlet pipe clamps in position on
the muffler and tighten clamps. Tighten the front and
rear outlet pipe clamps.
Tool-6150-N
1177
Chapter IH-Series6-Cylinder
30
S^34846-S
5260
34808-S
33>97-S
33816-S
1191
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part ONE
POWER PLANT
Chapter
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Page
32
33
34
35
. . 37
37
38
. 40
43
47
53
Servicing operations can be readily conducted with this
arrangement. Front and rear views of the engine are
shown in figs. 2 and 3 respectively.
A complete engine overhaul gasket kit is illustrated in
fig. 4.
1528
1530
Fig. 2-1951
31
32
a. Removal.
Remove the hood and the battery. Drain the crankcase and the coolant. Disconnect the upper radiator
hoses at the engine and the lower hoses at the radiator.
Remove i:he radiator. Disconnect the heater hoses at
the engine. Remove the air cleaner.
Disconnect the generator wires, oil pressure sender
wire, ignition switch to coil wire, and temperature
sender wire. Spread the cable clips and fold the cable
out of the way.
Disconnect the flexible fuel line connection. Disconnect
the choke wire, throttle linkage, and the accelerator
pedal rod. Push the cross shaft back against the dash
panel. Disconnect the windshield wiper hose at the
carburetor.
Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe, the starter cable (at
starter motor terminal), and the clutch retracting spring
and release rod. Remove the two top transmission to
flywheel housing bolts.
Remove the engine front support nuts. Install the
engine lift brackets and yoke and take up the load with
a hoist. Support the transmission and remove the two
lower transmission to flywheel housing bolts. Rock the
engine and pull it away from the transmission until the
pilot and shaft separate from the clutch, then raise the
engine carefully. Be sure it clears all parts of the engine
compartment. Do not let engine strike the grille.
With the engine clear of the car and hanging on the
1529
1182
b. Installation.
Remove the engine from the work stand. With the
engine hanging on a hoist, install the right hand exhaust
manifold and crossover pipe. Shift the transmission into
gear. Place a jack uncfer the transmission and raise the
transmission until it just touches the toe board.
Center the clutch release bearing in the clutch and
lower the engine into the engine compartment carefully.
Start the transmission pilot and spline into the clutch.
Tool-6000-N
1172
33
1527
2. MANIFOLDS
Procedures for removal, cleaning, inspection, and
installation of the exhaust and intake manifolds are
outlined below. Intake and exhaust manifolds are covered separately. Figure 6 illustrates the manifold gasket
kit.
a. Intake Manifold.
It is not necessary to remove the carburetor when the
manifold is removed unless the manifold is defective and
must be replaced. The intake manifold is shown in fig. 7.
(1) REMOVAL. Remove the carburetor air cleaner.
Disconnect generator wires. Remove the fan and generator. Disconnect the temperature sending unit wire.
Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump and remove
the pump. Pull out the pump push rod. Disconnect the
carburetor throttle linkage, choke wire, and carburetor
to distributor vacuum line at the carburetor. Loosen the
crankcase breather pipe clamp and remove the breather
pipe. Remove the manifold retaining bolts, clear the
spark plug wires out of the way, and remove the manifold and gasket.
(2) CLEANING. Brush out rust and dirt from the
inside of the manifold. Wash oil and grease from the
outside with solvent and dry the manifold.
(3) INSPECTION. Inspect the manifold for cracks
GASKETS-9448
Fig. 6-Manifold
Gasket Kit
b. Exhaust Manifold.
1949 and early 1950 models use a butterfly type
1193
1183
34
^STAMPED AS SHOWN
1155
3. CYLINDER HEADS
Procedures for removal, cleaning, inspection and installation of cylinder heads are given below. The procedures include preliminary instructions for removing parts
that interfere with the removal of each head. Figure 9
illustrates the cylinder head gasket and the cylinder head
is shown infig.10.
a. Preliminary.
b. Removal.
Drain coolant and disconnect the radiator hose at the
cylinder head elbow. Disconnect the spark plug wires and
remove the spark plugs. Remove the head bolts and
remove the head and gasket.
c. Cleaning.
d. Inspection.
Check the cylinder head for cracks or warped surfaces.
Replace the head if it is cracked or warped.
e. Installation.
1156
1194
35
a. Oil Pan.
Procedures covering the oil pan and oil seal are
presented here under headings indicating the nature of
the procedure. Removal, cleaning, inspection, and installation of the oil pan and the steps necessary for oil seal
installation are all described below. The oil pan is
illustrated infig.14.
(1) REMOVAL Drain the crankcase. Remove the
starter motor, clutch return spring, and the flywheel
housing front cover. Remove the bolt retaining the road
air breather duct and remove the duct. Remove the
bolts retaining the steering gear idler arm bracket to the
frame. Remove the steering gear arm and drop the idler
arm connecting rod until it hangs from the spindle arms.
Unscrew the oil level indicator tube. Remove the oil
pan retaining screws and the oil pan. The two front
retaining screws can be reached through access holes
provided in the frame front cross member.
NOTE: On some engines it will be necessary to disconnect the front engine supports and lift the front
of the engine.
(2) CLEANING. Wash the pan in solvent. Brush any
dirt or metal particles from the inside of the pan. Scrape
off old gasket material on the gasket surface of the pan.
Dry any remaining solvent.
-6700
WASHER 34806-S
CAP SCREW - 2 0 3 4 6 - S
1184
671
GASKET^-6734
OIL PAN6675
1023
36
WASHER
CAP SCREW
GEAR
OVER-6658
PIN6661
BUSHING6612
ET6669
LUG6672
BODY
ASSEMBLY
PLUNGER6663
GASKET6626
6603
SHAFT'AND
GEAR ASSEMBLY
6608
COVER AND
TUBE-6615
R-6610
SCREEN6623
GASKET6619
PLATE6616
WASHER-34805-S
CAP SCREW
24309-S
RETAINER SPRING
1079
37
OIL GR
ALUMINUM
Tool16312-N
1169
CAMSHAFT THRUST
BEARING SURFACE
OBA TYPE
8BA TYPE
CAST IRON
1722
b. Installation.
a. Removal.
Too/6306-N
1170
38
GUIDE-6510
INTAKE-6507
VALVE EXHAUST-6505
SPRING-6513
LOCKS-6518
1726
a. Removal.
Remove the fan. Remove the distributor. Remove
the front cover retaining screws and remove the cover
and gasket.
Pry out the old packing from the recess in the cover.
Install new packing in the recess and "roll" the packing
in with a round bar to make sure it is seated properly
(fig. 20).
c. Installation.
finger tight. Tap the top edge of the cover with a softfaced hammer until the ridge inside the cover seats in
the cylinder block recess. Install the remaining screws
(replace the air duct clamp, support if necessary) and
tighten the screws to 12-15 foot-pounds torque. Install
the distributor, fan, and generator. Adjust the belts and
check the ignition timing.
a. Valves.
Exhaust and intake valves serviced for Ford 8-cylinder
engines are m&#e of nickel-chrome alloy to withstand
the high operating temperatures encountered. Rotatable
intake and exhaust valves are used in 1951 engines. This
type of valve (fig. 21) has a two piece spring retainer
LOCKS6518
VALVE6505
SEAL6571
SPRING-6513
Tool-6513-N
Too/657 3-Q
1197
RETAINER-6512
RETAINER6514
1029
39
valve spring657 3
1037
Fig. 25Checking Valve Spring
1086
Fig. 26Grinding Valve Face
1034
1035
40
Toot-6513'P
1727
Fig. 30Assembling Rotatable Valve
b. Valve Seats.
Intake
Exhaust
0.010-0.012
0.014-0.016
0.013-0.015
0.017-0.019
a. Camshaft Replacement.
It will be necessary to replace the camshaft when the
cam lobes are worn to such an extent that the valve lift
is less than 0.291 inch for the intake valves and 0.287
VALVE SPRING-6513
1036
TAPPET
Thickness Gage
1033
41
CAMSHAFT-6250
'
1068
STAMP AS SHOWN
IN THIS AREA
1202
Tool6614-N
1069
42
CAMSHAFT BEARING-6261
f"
Camshaft Bearing
Replacer-6005N
CYLINDER BLOCK-bUlU
1074
CAMSHAFT BEARING(
1073
1072
43
a. Flywheel.
The flywheel is mounted on the crankshaft rear flange
with dowel pins and self-locking bolts. The reaf face of
the flywheel is a friction surface for clutch plate engagement. The starter ring gear is not an integral part of the
flywheel. It is held on the flywheel by a shrink fit.
The flywheel can be checked for runout, removed, and
installed with the engine mounted in the vehicle. Support the rear end of the engine on an engine support and
remove the transmission, flywheel housing, clutch assembly, and starter motor.
(1) INSPECTION. Cfceck flywheel runout with a
dial indicator (fig. 39). If runout exceeds 0.005 inch,
remove flywheel, turn it 180, reinstall, and again check
runout. If runout is still excessive, remove flywheel and
check runout of crankshaft mounting flange. True up
flange if necessary.
NOTE: Runout of the crankshaft flange should be
established before discarding the flywheel for excessive runout.
If the flange is not at fault, the flywheel should be replaced or machined. Machine the friction surface of the
flywheel if it is burned or scored.
(2) REMOVAL. Remove starter motor, clutch housing, clutch pressure plate, and disc. Remove the flywheel
bolts and locking ring. Bolt flywheel puller to rear face
of flywheel and remove the flywheel (fig. 40),
(3) REFACING. If it is necessary to remove more
than 0.045 inch of stock from the original thickness, the
flywheel should be replaced.
(4) RING GEAR REPLACEMENT. Flywheel ring
gear should not runout more than 0.010 inch. Replace
gear if teeth are worn, chipped, cracked, or have excessive runout.
To replace a ring gear, drill a % m c n hole nearly
through the ring gear on the engine side of the gear and
cut the remaining portion with a chisel. Heat the new
1178
1179
Fig. 40Removing
Flywheel
b. Crankshaft.
Crankshafts are made of cast alloy steel with integral
counterweights and are both statically and dynamically
balanced. Drilled oil passages (fig. 41) provide lubrication to main and connecting rod bearings.
Remove engine from chassis and mount on work stand.
Figure 42 shows the crankshaft and its related parts.
(1) REMOVAL. Remove the spark plugs, oil pan,
clutch housing, clutch, and flywheel. Remove the connecting rod caps and push the pistons up into the cylinders. Remove the main bearing caps. Lift out the
crankshaft and place it where it will not be dropped or
damaged.
(2) CLEANING AND INSPECTION.
Wash the
crankshaft in solvent. Blow out the oil passages with
compressed air. Examine the shaft for evidence of cracks.
Check the dowel pins in the flange for looseness. Remove
any nicks on the ends of the pins with a file.
CAUTION: Do not file the body diameter of the
dowel pins,
(a) MEASURING CRANKPINS AND JOURNALS. Measure
1523
44
bores are in line. If the bar will not turn, replace the
cylinder block.
(3) REGRINDING CRANKSHAFT JOURNALS.
Calculate the correct undersize from the crankshaft
dimension given above. Bearings are available in 0.002,
0.010, 0.020, 0.030, and 0.040 undersize diameters.
EXAMPLE: If the main bearing journal will "clean
up" before it is ground to 2.4990.010 == 2.489
inches diameter, finish it to that diameter and install
0.010 undersize bearings.
CAUTION: Never grind journals or crankpins in
excess of 0.040 undersize.
Always reproduce the same radii in the corners of the
pin or journal that existed originally. Too small a radius
may result in crankshaft failure, while too large a radius
will result in bearing failure.
After grinding, polish the pin or journal with No. 320
grit emery cloth and engine oil. Crocus cloth may also
be used.
(4) REAR OIL SEAL. Remove the oil seal retainer
from the cylinder block, pry out the packing and "roll
in" new packing.
NOTE: Soak packing in engine oil for at least two
hours before installing.
Clean the retainer slot in the cylinder block. Install
the retainer making sure it seats all the way in the slot.
The edges of the retainer should be flush with the
cylinder block.
(5) INSTALLATION.
Install the bearing inserts in
the crankcase bearing bores and oil them with engine
oil. Lay the crankshaft in the bearings. Install the bearFLYWHEEL-6375
34808-S
20350-S
FLYWHEEL AND
CLUTCH HOUSING
6392
c. Main Bearings.
The main bearings can be replaced with the crankshaft
removed (described previously) or without removing the
crankshaft as described below.
(1) REPLACEMENT WITHOUT REMOVING
CRANKSHAFT.
Remove oil pan. Remove the main
bearing caps, one at a time allowing the other two caps
to support the crankshaft.
NOTE: / / all bearings are to be replaced, replace the
intermediate bearing first.
Turn the crankshaft until the oil hole is near the
un-notched edge of the bearing half. Insert the bearing
removing tool in the oil hole and rotate the crankshaft
J/2 turn to remove the bearing (fig. 43).
Oil the new bearing half and lay it in the same position the old bearing was when it was taken off the journal. Rotate the crankshaft x/i turn in the opposite direction until the insert is flush with the cylinder block.
Install the bearing insert in the cap and replace the cap.
Torque the cap retaining bolts to 95-105 foot-pounds.
Repeat the procedure for replacing the other bearings.
Install the oil pan.
(2) FITTING MAIN BEARINGS (PLASTIGAGE
METHOD). Remove the bearing cap and wipe the oil
from the bearing and journal.
OIL SEAL
RETAINER6335
MAIN BEARINGS
6333
3508
CRANKSHAFT6303
357654-S
SUNGER-6310
20639-S
33797
CRANKSHAFT GEAR
6306
COVER-6366
34806-S
33798-S
REAR MAIN BEARING-6331
351590-S
PULLEY-6312
MAIN BEARINGS6333
1167
Fig. 42Crankshaft and Related Parts
45
CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL
Tool-6331
1046
NOTE: Keep the other bearing caps tight while checking the fit of a bearing.
Place a piece of Plastigage the full width of the bearing on the bearing insert. Install the bearing cap and
torque the retaining bolts to 95-105 foot-pounds. Leave
the cap tight for at least one minute and then remove it.
.002" CLEARANCE
1047
F/g. 45Checking Crankshaft End Thrust
GRADUATED CONTAINER
1181
CRANKSHAFT
Crankshaft Gear
Puller6306-C
1048
46
LOCATING MARK
OF
49T-PISTON
1201
1049
Remove the oil pan. Pry the crankshaft toward the rear
of the engine. Insert a feeler gauge between the crankshaft thrust flange and the flange face of the rear main
bearing or use a dial indicator as shown in fig. 45.
Allowable end thrust is 0.002-0.006 inch, Replace the
thrust bearing insert if the end thrust is too great.
Install the oil pan.
SI
-"CYLINDER
WALL
CAST
IRON RING
CYLINDER
WALL
PISTON RING
-TAPER
TAPER
d. Crankshaft Gear.
CAST IRON
SECTION-
INNER
I-
STEEL
SECTION
INNER RING
EXPANDER TYPE
COMPRESSION RING
STEEL SECTION
COMPRESSION RING
RING
-CYLINDER
WALL
S55SSS5
INNER RING-
SLOTTED CAST
IRON OIL RING
INNER RING-
SLOTTED CAST
IRON OIL RING
SLOTTED CAST
IRON OIL RING
CYLINDER
WALL
BEVEL-
-STEEL
SECTION
CYLINDER
WALL
INSIDE DIJ
SNAP COMPRESSION RING
VrV/UNTCKDUKBU INSIDE
DIMHCIBK
1087
47
SHOE
1085
CUTTER BLADE
1153
6149
SW
/ CL
BUSHING
6207
PISTON PIN^*^RETAINER
6135
6140
INSERT BEARINGS
6211
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY-6200
NUTS
6212
CHECK NUTS
1060
1052
48
Reamer
CONNECTING ROD
1057
1159
a. Removal.
Drain the crankcase and the coolatn. Remove the
cylinder heads and the oil pan. Check the upper cylinder
1160
49
b. Disassembly.
RADII RIDE
SCRATCHES
RADII RIDE
c. Cleaning.
Remove carbon from the piston head with a scraper
or wire brush. Clean the piston ring grooves with a
groove cleaner (fig. 52).
Clean the oil return holes by running a drill through
the holes. Be sure the drill is the same size or slightly
smaller than the holes.
Clean all parts in solvent. Do not use caustic base
cleaner for this operation. Clean the connecting rod
bearing bore and the back of the bearing inserts (if they
are to be re-used).
SCRATCHES
1162
d. Inspection,
Check the parts of the rod and piston assembly for the
following signs of wear or damage.
(1) CONNECTING ROD. If the rod has damaged
studs, deep nicks, cracks, or scored bearing bores, it
should be replaced. If the rod is twisted it should be
replaced. Check the alignment of the rod on a fixture as
shown in fig. 53.
The clearance at the pin should not exceed 0.0005 inch.
Check the connecting rod bushing by inserting a new
piston pin. The bushing should hold the pin when the
BRIGHT (POLISHED) SECTIONS
1163
1161
50
e. Fitting Pistons.
Before installing; or fitting pistons with new rings in
an old block, remove the high polish on the cylinder walls
by passing a hone through the bore a few times. Clean
all honing dust out of the cylinder after this operation.
To fit a new piston in a new bore, attach a tension
scale to one end of a feeler ribbon (0.003 x Y^' wide for
49T piston; 0.0015 x Y wide for 8BA piston). Position
the feeler ribbon on the thrust side of the cylinder (side
away from the camshaft in the right hand bank; toward
the camshaft in the left hand bank), invert the piston,
and push it in the cylinder so the skirt is }/ inch below
REAR
FRONT
TOP OF BLOCK
MEASUREMENTS " A " AND " C " MADE BELOW
RIDGE OR AT THE TOP OF RING TRAVEL
1176
Fig. 62fitting Piston to Cylinder Bore
49T-6108-A
49T-6108-C
49T-6108-D
49T-6108-E
49T-6108-F8
8BA-6108-A
8BA-6108-B
8BA-6108-C
8BA-6108-D
8BA-6108-E
8BA-6108-F
Type
Standard
0.020 inch O.S.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
Standard
0.0025 inch O.S.
0.020 inch O.S.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
Piston Skirt
Diameter Limits
(Dimension at Skirt
-inches)
3.1855-3.1865
3.2055-3.2065
3.2155-3.2165
3.2255-3.2265
3.2455-3.2465
3.1879-3.1891
3.1891-3.1903
3.2067-3.2079
3.2167-3.2179
3.2267-3.2279
3.2467-3.2479
O.S. = Oversize.
There are four pistons of each type (standard and oversize)
with skirt diameter variation in steps of 0.0003 inch for selective fitting of 8BA pistons.
51
Ring Groove
Mfg. Clearance (Inches)
1stTop Compression.
2ndCompression
3rdOil Ring
4thOil Ring
0.0015-0.0030
0.0010-0.0025
0.0010-0.0030
0.0010-0.0030
Remove stock from tight rings by rotating the ring
over emery cloth placed on a surface plate or plate glass
until the ring fits the groove within the above limits.
8BA
0.003
6-12
0.0015
3-12
0.003
6-12
0.0015
3-12
0.004
6-12
0.003
3-12
52
k. Assembly.
Position the connecting rod in the piston so the connecting rod squirt hole will face toward the front of the
engine upon installation and push the pin in place.
NOTE: Connecting rods with metered hole should
only be used in conjunction with engines equipped
with neoprene seals on the intake valve guides and
the increased capacity oil pump. This pump and
guide can be used with the old-style connecting rods
without the squirt hole. It is permissible to replace
the SBA connecting rod and bearings with OBA rod
and bearings but the OBA types should not be
replaced with SBA types.
1. Installation.
Oil the cylinder wall with light engine oil. Make sure
ring gaps are equally spaced around circumference of
piston. Compress the lower ring with a ring compresser
and start the piston in the cylinder by tapping the
piston head with a soft hammer.
NOTE: Position SBA pistons so the indentation in
the piston head is toward the front of the engine.
This is necessary as the SBA piston pin is offset 1/16
inch.
Shift the compressor to the three upper rings, compress them, and tap the piston in with a soft hammer
(fig. 64) until it is slightly below the top of the cylinder.
Turn the crankshaft so the throw is down and push the
piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on
the crankpin. Install the bearing cap, lining up the
stamped numbers, and tighten the retaining nuts to 4550 foot-pounds. Install new lock nuts.
Install the oil pan and cylinder heads. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and amount of lubricant. Fill
the cooling system. Start the engine and run it slowly.
Make sure there is sufficient oil pressure. Check the
temperature to make sure the engine does not overheat.
Overheating can be caused by too tight bearings.
'PISTON
1088
Tool-6150-N
1177
Section 11 Muffler, Cross Over Pipe, Inlet Pipe, and Outlet Pipe
53
11. MUFFLER, CROSS OVER PIPE, INLET PIPE, AND OUTLET PIPE
SUPPORT BRACKET
5259
23438-S-W / 33798-S
88393-S
pL /
23438-S
MUFFLER INLET PIPE
6
,23438-S
5251 \
20369-S
/34846-S
y^Pfei
20357-S
5260
34846-S \
5270
33797-S
MUFFLER INLET CROSS-OVER PIPE
8-CYLINDER ENGINE
5267
1665
a. Muffler Replacement.
Extra heavy double wall construction, corrosion
resistant materials and low moisture formation inherent
in reverse-flow design, assure long life of the muffler.
(1) REMOVAL. Loosen muffler inlet and outlet pipe
clamps. Slide clamps away from muffler on the inlet pipe
and the outlet pipe. Loosen front and rear outlet pipe
clamps and disengage outlet pipe from muffler by sliding
outlet pipe to rear. Remove muffler from inlet pipe.
(2) INSTALLATION.
Place muffler in position on
inlet pipe and slide outlet pipe into muffler. Place inlet
pipe and outlet pipe clamps in position on muffler and
tighten clamps. Tighten front and rear outlet pipe
clamps.
SIDE VIEW
TOP VIEW
1521
1721
54
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part One
POWER PLANT
Chapter
III
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
Page
Ignition System
Distributor Minor Repair and Adjustment
Distributor Overhaul
.. .
Carburetor Operation, Tests, and Adjustments
6-Cylinder Carburetor\ Overhaul
8-Cylinder Carburetor Overhaul
Fuel Pumps and Vacuum Booster
Fuel Tanks and Lines
Fans and Belts
. .. . .
Water Pumps ,
Radiator, Hoses, and Thermostats
55
59
62
66
69
72
75
79
80
81
84
The ignition, fuel and cooling systems are all necessary components of the engine itself. However, due to
the fact that service on these systems is performed
separately from engine service they have been grouped
together here in one chapter. Another advantage to
this grouping, lies in the fact that most quick service
operations involve one or more of these systems, and
1. IGNITION SYSTEM
( 2 ) CLEANING. The main object in cleaning plugs
is to remove all of the carbon and lead deposits from
the insulator, shell, and electrodes. This can be done on
a sand blast cleaner. Do not prolong the use of the
abrasive blast as it will wear the insulator and damage
the plug. A thorough cleaning of spark plugs should
always include removing carbon and other deposits from
the threads with a stiff wire brush. These threads are
the means of carrying the heat away from the plug.
Any deposits will retard the heat flow from the plug
to the cylinder head, causing overheating and preignition.
The electrode construction (fig. 1) is such that the
cleaning process sometimes does not remove the deposits from all surfaces of the electrodes. Therefore,
it is important to clean the electrode surfaces with a
small file of the type used on distributor contacts. Dress
the electrodes to secure flat parallel surfaces on both
the center and side electrode.
By restoring the flat surfaces and providing sharp
edges on the electrodes, the voltage required to jump
the gap is reduced and the spark plug performance is
improved. A visual inspection will indicate when the
The ignition system consists of the distributor assembly which includes the condenser, the coil, the spark
plugs, and the necessary wires and terminals for connecting these units.
Information on how to perform all repairs and adjustments on the ignition system with the exception of
the distributor, are given in this section.
Spark plug replacement, testing, and adjustment are
covered in "a. Spark Plugs." "b. High Tension (Secondary) Wires" gives procedures for replacement of the
secondary ignition wires on both the 6 and 8-Cylinder
engines. Coil replacement and testing are procedures
described in "c. Coil." "d. Timing" gives the engine ignition timing procedure.
J
a. Spark Plugs.
Spark plugs should be cleaned and inspected, adjusted, and tested at least every 5000 miles.
( 1 ) REMOVAL. Pull the wire off each spark plug.
Use compressed air to clean the area around each spark
plug. Remove the plugs with a spark plug wrench. Be
sure to remove the spark plug gasket when the plug is
removed.
55
56
plug has been properly cleaned. The insulator appearance should be white and the metal case clean.
After cleaning, examine the plug carefully for crackecf
or broken insulators, badly pitted electrode, or other
signs of failure and replace as required.
(3) ADJUSTMENT. Set the spark plug gap
(0.029-0.032 inch). All adjustm|*its should be made
by bending the side electrode only.
(4) TESTING. After setting the gap, test the plugs
on an approved tester. Compare the sparking efficiency
of the cleaned and re-gapped plug with a new plug.
Replace the plug if it fails to meet requirements.
During this test, check the plug for pressure leakage
at the insulator seal. Cover with oil the shoulder of the
plug where the insulator projects through the shell and
the top of the plug where the center electrode and
terminal project from the insulator. Place the plug under
pressure and if oil bubbles appear, the plug is leaking
and must be replaced. If the plug is satisfactory, wipe it
clean before installing it in the engine.
(5) INSTALLATION. Clean the area around the
spark plug port, to ensure proper seating of the plug
gasket. Use a new gasket when installing a spark plug.
After the plugs are installed, connect the spark plug
wires and operate the engine until it reaches its normal
operating temperature. Remove the wires, tighten each
plug to the proper torque (24-30 foot-pounds), and reconnect the wires.
TERMINAL STU
EMENT
' C H A M P I O N CERAMIC"
INSULATOR
1093
ENTER ELECTRODE
SHELL
J'SILLMENT" SEAL
ASKET
G R O U N D JELECTRODE
1428
SPARK GAP
1500
CARBURETOR
DISTRIBUTOR
VACUUM LINE
DISTRIBUTOR CAP
DISTRIBUTOR LOCK CLAMP^
DISTRIBUTOR
1094
SPARK
PLUGS
NO. 7 NO
NO. 6
SPARK PLUGS
VACUUM ASSEMBLY
COIL HIGH
TENSION WIRE
DISTRIBUTOR
DISTRIBUTOR CAP (TERMINAL HOUSING)
1095
1501
58
c. Coil.
The same coil is used on all Ford passenger cars. This
metal clad coil is mounted on the plug wire and coil
bracket on the 6-cylinder engine. On the 8-cylinder engine a bracket attached to the front end of the righthand cylinder head holds the coil.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect the high tension lead
and the primary leads from the coil.
Loosen ignition coil mounting strap and remove coil.
(2) INSTALLATION. Position the coil in the
mounting strap, then tighten the mounting strap. Insert
the high tension lead into the coil socket and connect
the primary wires to the coil. Push the weather seal
tightly against the coil.
(3) TESTING ON CAR. Place the spark plug end
of a spark plug wire approximately 3/16 inch from the
cylinder head. Run the engine at idle speed. If the spark
will jump the gap regularly the coil and the condenser
are satisfactory.
(4) TEST ON DISTRIBUTOR STROBOSCOPE.
Install the coil on the test set as shown in fig. 8 and
check the coil output. The spark should jump a 14
kilovolt setting regularly at 2000 R.P.M.
d. Timing.
The 6-cylinder engine is equipped with either a viscous type damper having a groove timing mark or a
rubber type damper having a ball timing mark. Because
of the difference in diameter between the two types of
dampers, two timing pointers are located on the engine
front cover (fig. 9). The pointer nearest to the outer
circumference of the damper should be used to time
the engine. A pointer on the engine front cover and a
mark on the crankshaft pulley are used to time the
8-cylinder engine.
When the pointer, as shown in fig. 9, is in line with
the timing mark, No. 1 or No. 6 cylinder is in firing
position, depending on which piston is on the compression stroke.
In order to determine which piston is on compression
stroke, use a compression gauge or block the spark plug
hole with your thumb. Pressure will be high on the compression stroke.
SPARK PLU G
WIRE SIT
OIL
HIGH TENSION LEAD
POSITIVE
LEAD
1112
DAMPER
ut-mss
//
FRONT COVER
DAMPER
1502
TIMING INDICATOR
1114
the timing mark and pointer with white chalk. Start the
engine and operate it at idle speed. Direct the light on
the timing mark as shown in fig. 10. It should flash just
as the timing mark lines up with the pointer, indicating
correct timing. The operator should stand so that his
eye is in line with center of damper and timing pointer.
a. Distributor Points.
The distributor point assembly in the loadomatic distributor consists of the stationary distributor point
bracket assembly, breaker arm, and primary wire terminal. This assembly is mounted on the breaker plate
as a unit and can be replaced without removing the
distributor from the engine (fig. 12).
Although the distributor point assembly spring tension is set by the manufacturer, the tension should be
adjusted, it is not within specifications.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect the primary and condenser leads. Remove the screws which secure the point
assembly to the breaker plate. Remove the point
assembly.
(2) INSTALLATION. Place the primary and condenser leads, lock washers, and nut on the point assembly primary terminal and tighten the nut securely.
1 SPARII PLUG
Z VENTURI
Inn
VACUUM PASSAGE
DAMPER
Timing Light
1 1|5
1O97
60
Holding Block12132-N-2'
TlOO
b. Condenser,
The condenser can be removed from the distributor,
either when the distributor is in the engine or when
it is removed from the engine.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect the condenser lead
from the distributor point primary terminal and remove
the screw that holds the condenser on the breaker plate.
Lift the condenser out of the distributor.
(2) INSTALLATION. Position the condenser on
the breaker plate., Install the condenser holding screw.
Connect the condenser lead to the primary terminal.
Contact alignment tool
Adjusting
wrench-12150-N
VACUUM DIAPHRAGM
ADJUSTMENT SLOTS
BREAKER PLATE SPRINGS
BREAKER PLATE
PRIMARY
TERMINAL
IT* I TO COIL
GROUND WIRE
PRIMARY WIRE
^^
STATIONARY CONTACT
CONDENSER
CAM
UA
1098
ADJUSTMENT SLOT
/
CONTACT ASSEMBLY LOCK SCREWS
"R" SERIES DISTRIBUTOR
1099
61
Vacuum Hose
c. Distributor.
The distributor must be removed from the engine
when the vacuum advance is to be checked or adjusted.
(1) REMOVAL. Before removing the distributor
from an engine which is timed correctly, be sure to
scribe a mark on the distributor housing indicating the
position of the rotor, and another mark on the engine
and housing to indicate the position of the housing. The
distributor can be reinstalled when the rotor is in line
with the mark without rotating the engine crankshaft to
obtain the proper timing.
Remove the distributor cap. Disconnect the primary
wire and vacuum line. Loosen the distributor clamp lock
screw or distributor hold-down bolt and remove the
distributor assembly from the engine.
(2) CHECK VACUUM ADVANCE. Install the
distributor on the stroboscope as shown in fig. 16.
Connect the dwell lead and check the percent dwell.
If the dwell is not between 58 and 63 per cent and the
point spacing is not within limits, it will be necessary
to adjust the points. Check the breaker arm spring tension and adjust if required (17-20 ozs.). Set the distributor speed at 200 r.p.m., hold the distributor breaker
Distributor
Test Set
Sight
1108
Coil Lead
CONDENSER
1113
Distributor
R.P.M.
200
500
1000
1000
1500
2000
Distributor Degrees
Min.
Max.
0
3
sy2
nlA
s'A
ioy2
13
ny2
200
500
1000
1500
2000
iM
sy4
7H
200
500
1000
1500
2000
0H
0
0
1
8%
10
10
5M
uH
Vacuum
(Inches of
Mercury)
0
0.4
1.4
5.5
2.9
4.1
0
0.4
1.7
2.8
3.7
0
0.30
1.32
2.85
3.7
62
VACUUM HOSE
3. DISTRIBUTOR OVERHAUL
Before disassembling the distributor for overhaul it
is advisable to place the distributor on a distributor
stroboscope and, after adjusting the distributor point
spacing, test the distributor for variation of spark and
correct vacuum advance. This test will give valuable
information on the distributor condition and indicate
the parts which need replacement.
This section covers the complete disassembly, inspection and assembly of the 6-cylinder distributor under the
heading "a. 6-cylinder." "b. 8-cyUnder" covers 8-cyUnder
distributor disassembly, inspection and assembly.
a. 6-Cylinder.
If the vacuum unit, ground wire and primary wire
are in satisfactory condition it is not necessary to
remove these parts from the distributor housing when
replacing bushings. Figure 18 illustrates the 6-cylinder
distributor parts and their relative positions.
(1) SHAFT AND CAM REMOVAL. File off the
rivet head. Drive out the collar rivet with a punch.
Slide the collar off the drive shaft. Remove the shaft
and cam assembly from the distributor housing.
(2) BREAKER PLATE REMOVAL. Place the
7HA-12127
(1949-1950-1951
6-cylinder)
7RA-12127-C
(1949 and early 1950
8-cylinder)
8BA-12127 and OBA12127 (Late 1950-1951
8-cylinder)
400
0.26
400
0.28
500
0.30
Apply Vacuum
(inches Hg) to
distributor
diaphragm
1000
1.4
1200
2.1
1000
1.32
Turn Adjusting
Post until Spark
is advanced to
(degrees)
63
a new lower bushing in position on the bushing installation tool. Place the distributor housing and the "A"
spacer on the tool. Turn the T-handle until the lower
bushing is flush with the distributor housing. Remove
the T-handle and the "A" spacer. Position the upper
bushing on the housing with the lock ring end up. Place
the "A" spacer over the bushing. Turn the T-handle
until the spacer bottoms firmly against the distributor
housing.
Properly size the upper and lower bushing using the
burnishing tool.
(6) BREAKER PLATE INSTALLATION. Install
the ground wire and the primary wire in the distributor
housing. Position the breaker plate in the housing.
Install the lock ring to secure the breaker plate. Install
the condenser on the breaker plate. Place the condenser
lead, primary lead, lock washer, and nut on the distributor
point primary terminal, and securely tighten the nut.
Install the distributor point assembly. Be sure the
pivot pin enters the hole in the breaker plate. Install
the ground wire and the screw at the adjustment slot
end of the breaker assembly and the screw at the opposite end of the assembly. Install the vacuum unit on the
distributor housing if it was previously removed.
Install the two return springs on the adjustment and
body posts. Connect the vacuum unit rod to the breaker
plate, and attach it with the hair pin retainer.
(7) SHAFT INSTALLATION. Slide the shaft into
the housing. Place the collar in position on the shaft.
Install the collar rivet. Place the distributor in position
CAP12106
ROTOR12200
CAP-12106
1
12213
ROTOR12200
12300
1221
CAM AND SHAFT
ASSY.12175
12151
12264
34801-S
12216
12234
12171
12146 ,
12225
12192
12388
43243S
350032-S
12233
121
12144
10141
HOUSING12130
12195
12175
DIAPHRAGM ASSY.
12370
12145
12144
12273
31144S
61489S
1105
350032
12151
12264
310371223
12145
12144
122333512
350860-S
10141
12130
34051-S
34801-S
12171
12146
12216
12225
12192
12388
43243-S
+J*
.$
DIAPHRAGM ASSY.
12370
12179
61465-S
12390
1104
64
on the block tool and peen the end of the rivet. Adjust
distributor point spacing. Adjust vacuum advance.
b. 8-Cylinder.
Three different distributors are used in the 8-cylinder
engines. The 1949 and some early 1950 model engines
use the 7RA-12127 distributor which has a cast iron
housing fig. 19. The housing extends along the shaft
to the distributor gear and contains two bushings which
support the distributor shaft at both ends. The distributor shaft is held in position by the distributor gear
which is pressed on end of shaft and pinned in place.
Some Early 1950 models use an 8BA-12127 distributor which is the same distributor as the 7RA-12127
except the two spark advance return springs were
replaced with two 8EQ-12192 springs. These springs
are adjusted to 8BA-12127 distributor advance limits.
Late 1950 distributors, part no. 0BA-12127 have a
longer shaft and a die-cast housing with a short extension (fig. 20).
A collar on the distributor shaft holds the shaft in
position and controls the shaft end play. The gear is
installed on the shaft and allows the shaft to extend
below the gear (fig. 20). The additional length of the
shaft fits into a pilot hole in the engine front cover.
All 8-cylinder distributors have the same distance
between the distributor pad and the distributor gear.
The disassembly, inspection and assembly procedure
given below covers the three 8-cylinder distributors.
(1) SHAFT AND CAM REMOVAL. Position the
distributor housing on the repair block. File off the
rivet head on the distributor drive gear. On the 0BA12127 distributor also file off the collar rivet head.
Drive out the rivet or rivets with a punch (fig.21).
Pull the distributor gear (fig. 22). On the OBA-12127
distributor slide the collar off the shaft.
Slide the shaft out of the distributor housing.
(2) BREAKER PLATE REMOVAL. Place the
distributor housing in the holding block. Remove the
distributor point assembly. Remove the condenser.
Remove the hair pin retainer and disconnect the rod.
Release the tension on the return springs. Disconnect
the return springs.
Holding Block12131 -N
DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR
1101
NOTE: Do not stretch the springs as this may distort the springs making it difficult to obtain adjustment.
Remove the lock ring attaching the breaker plate to
the upper bushing. Lift the breaker plate from the
housing. If required, disconnect and remove the primary
and ground wires.
(3) INSPECTION. Inspect the distributor shaft
and bushings for wear and replace if outside the limits.
The distributor shaft minimum diameter at the bushing is 0.4675 inch. The upper bushing manufacturing
limit inside diamejter is 0.4685-0.4695 inch.
(4) BUSHING REMOVAL. Drive out the lower
bushing with the distributor bushing remover as shown
Puller
12390-N
DISTRIBUTOROBA-12127
1102
1720
65
T Handle
"A" Spacer
UPPER BUSHING
R SERIES DISTRIBUTOR
Screw Press-72732-P
1125
Fig. 24Installing Bushing
plate, and attach the rod with the hair pin retainer.
(7) SHAFT INSTALLATION. Slide the shaft into
the housing. Place the spacer on the gear end of the
shaft (7RA & 8BA distributors only). On the OB A distributor slide the collar on the shaft. Install the pin and
peen the pin end. Press the gear on the shaft until
the hole in the gear and shaft are in alignment. End
clearance should be 0.002 to 0.005 inch. Insert the pin
through the shaft and peen the pin end.
If the shaft on the 7RA or 8BA distributor has been
replaced, it is necessary to position the gear on the
shaft with the marks on the end of the gear and shaft
in alignment. Establish the proper end play 0.002-0.005
inch then drill the shaft using a number 30 (0.1285)
drill.
If a new shaft is used on the 0BA type distributor,
Split Drift72732
DISTRIBUTOR
HOUSING
LOWER BUSHING*
1107
1103
66
it is necessary to position the collar on the shaft, establish the proper end play (0.002-0.005 inch) and drill the
shaft with a number 30 (0.1285) drill. Then install the
pin in the collar and peen the pin head.
Press the gear on the shaft until the bottom edge of
a. Operation.
While some variation in design exists between the
6-cylinder and 8-cyUnder carburetors* each carburetor
has four fuel circuits and the principles involved are the
same for each. Minor variations in design are pointed
out throughout this presentation.
Each system is designed to supply the correct quantity -of fuel under a particular type of operation. The
operating principles of these separate circuits are presented under the following headings: "(1) Idle Fuel
System," "(2) Main Fuel System," "(3) Power Fuel
System," and "(4) Accelerating System."
The 8-cylinder carburetor construction is illustrated
in figures 26 and 27.
(1) IDLE FUEL SYSTEM. The idling system for
the different Ford carburetors are illustrated in figures
28 and 29.
The fuel from the carburetor bowl passes through the
1006
Fig. 268-Cy/inder Carburetor (Sectional View)
main metering jet and into the idle tube "F." Air is
introduced into the fuel stream by the idle air bleed "A"
and a small additional amount of air is bled in by a
small hole "B" in the aspirating nozzle. The idle mixture
goes around the aspirating nozzle, then travels down the
idle passages to the idle discharge holes "D" and "E."
When the engine is running at a speed of 450 r.p.m.,
the mixture is discharged from the lower hole "E" only.
As the throttle plate opens and the speed is increased,
the upper hole "D" starts discharging in addition to the
lower hole "E."
The action and timing are such that the discharge
from the upper hole "D" reaches a maximum at about
900 r.p.m., and then gradually becomes less effective
as the main nozzle starts to flow.
The lower discharge hole "E" is provided with an
idle adjusting screw. Turning this screw "out" gives a
richer mixture and turning the screw "in" gives a leaner
mixture.
(2), MAIN FUEL SYSTEM. The main fuel system
starts to operate as the idle system becomes less
effective and the main nozzle starts to deliver fuel (fig.
30 and 31). This occurs at about 900 r.p.m. Between
900 r.p.m. and 1250 r.p.m. there is a definite blend of
the idle system and the main metering system. In this
1698
Fig. 278-Cylinder Carburetor (Idle System)
67
ASPIRATING NOZZLE
NOZZLE BAR
CLAMPS
WIDE OPEN
CHOKE LOCK
MAIN BODY
GASKET
"A"
IDLE AIR BLEED
MAIN JET
IDLE PASSAGE
DRAIN PLUG
IDLE MIXTURE
ADJUSTING SCREW
THROTTLE
BARREL GASKET
MN VERTICAL WELL
NOZZLE BAR
GASKETS
1605
1607
MAIN JET
WIDE OPEN
CHOKIE LOCK
MAIN BODY
GASKET
IDLE DISCHARGE
HOLE (UPPER)
MAIN
VERTICAL WELL
NOZZLE BAR
CLAMPS
NOZZLE BAR
GASKETS
G" MAIN NOZZLE
MAIN JET
IDLE MIXTURE
ADJUSTING SCREW
1606
1608
Fig. 316-Cylinder Carburetor Main Fuel System
68
AIR BLEED PLUG
(ASPIRATING NOZZLE)
PUMP SPRING
RELIEF VAL
PUMP
DISCHARGE
VALVE " P "
PUMP DISCHARGE
NOZZLE
MAIN
VERTICAL
WELL M
OZZLE BAR
GASKETS
HIGH SPEED
DISCHARGE
THROTTLE
PLATE
ACCELERATING
PUMP LINK " R "
IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTING SCREW
THROTTLE-IS
AUTOMATICA
OPENED TO ST
POSITION BY CHOKE LEVER
PUMP ADJUSTMENTS
1613
POWER VALVE
CONTROL PASSAGE " L "
1612
NOZZLE BAR
GASKETS
CHOKE
TORSION SPRING
CHOKE LEVER
PUMP SPRING
CHOKE PLATE
MAIN JET
PUMP DISCHARGE
NOZZLE
HIGH SPEED
DISCHARGE
POWER VALVE
SPRING " K "
PUMP DISCHARGE
VALVE " P "
PUMP INLET
CHECK VALVE " N
1610
^ACCELERATING PUMP
LINK " R "
PUMP
ADJUSTMENT
IDLE SPEED
ADJUSTING SCREW
1615
69
FLOAT
LINK
9505-A
CARBURETOR
AIR H O R N
IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT
11618
1122
a. Removal.
Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the accelerator
rod and choke wire from the carburetor. Remove the
line connecting the fuel pump to the carburetor. Disconnect the distributor vacuum, line. Remove the
carburetor holding nuts and lodk washers. Lift the
carburetor and gaskets off the manifold.
b. Disassembly.
The throttle plate and shaft, and the choke plate
and shaft should not be removed from the carburetor
unless absolutely necessary as difficulty may be encountered when installing these parts in their correct position.
LINK
IDLE FUEL
ADJUSTMENT
1617
AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
1724
70
THROTTLE PLATE9585
IDLE ADJUSTMENT
NEEDLE 9541
THROTTLE PLATE
SCREWS-9586
THROTTLE AND
CHOKE CONTROL
BRACKET
FAST IDLE R O D - *
MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY
IDLER LEVER9584
PUMP
OPERATING
LEVER9583
THROTTLE BODY
ASSEMBLY
PUMP LINK RETAINER-9599
PUMP LINK9526
1007
Fig. 416-Cylinder Carburetor, Disassembled
1623
71
WASHER9632
SCREW-31077-S
WASHER
PUMP OPERATING
ROD9531
CARBURETOR
REPAIR KIT
PISTON-9631
POWER VALVE
67-9594
POWER VALVE
GASKET
PUMP CHECK BALL
RETAINER-9575
NOZZLE BAR
9920
ZZLE BAR
GASKET-9926
MAIN METERING
JET-9533
PUMP DISCHARGE
NEEDLE78-9594
MAIN BODY9512^
1511
d. Assembly,
Always install new gaskets when rebuilding the
carburetor. A carburetor overhaul kit is also available
FLOAT LEVER SHAFT9558
FLOAT9550
POWER
VALVE PISTON
ASSEMBLY9904
9564
CHOKE PLATE
9549
CHOKE LEVER PLUNGER SPRING
9587
VI
9546
1
CHOKE PLATE SCREWS
9586
SCREW
1633
1949,and Early
1950 Jet
Carburetor
Part No.
Use
8HA-9510-A
Size
Part No.
Size
5GA-9533-A
0.065
8HA-9510-B
5,000 to 10,000
ft. alt.
5GA-9533-B
0.063
1GA-9533-B
0.062
8HA-9510-C
10,000 to 15,000
ft. alt.
5GA-9533-C
0.061
1GA-9533-C
0.060
1GA-9533-A 0.064
1GA-9533-D 0.058
72
the pump operating rod and the other pin in the pump
operating lever. Install the pump link retainer in the
groove of the pin. The hole farthest from the pivot point
is for extreme cold temperatures. The hole nearest to
the pivot is for extreme hot temperatures. The center
hole is for average driving conditions.
(5) ASSEMBLE AIR HORN TO MAIN BODY.
Position a new gasket on the main body. Position the
air horn on the main body and secure with the screws.
Be sure to install the choke control bracket under the
rear screw. Install the idle lever on the throttle body.
Install a cotter pin to secure the lever in place. Connect
the fast idle rod to the choke shaft lever. Connect the
idle lever to the fast: idle rod.
e. Installation.
Position a new gasket on the manifold. Place the
carburetor on the manifold and secure with the lock
washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts evenly. Connect
the choke, and throttle linkage to the carburetor. Connect the fuel line and the distributor vacuum line. Place
air cleaner on the carburetor and tighten clamp.
Remove the line connecting the fuel pump to the carburetor. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line. Remove
^
V "
a. Removal.
SCREWS
SCREW
31596-S
Hflt
WASHERS 34803-S7
AIR H O R N - 9 5 2 4
FLOAT-9550
WASHER-34703-S
CHOKE LEVER-9805
BODY GASKET
9519
PUMP OPERATING
ROD9531
PISTON9642
CARBURETOR THROTTLEKICKER-9597
MAIN BODY
9512
13
SCREW-*" ;
DRAIN PLUGS
9562
WASHER
SPRIN
9599
THROTTLE BODY
GASKET9516
ACCELERATING
PUMP LINK9526
THROTTLE BODY
9518
WASHERS 34804
WASHER34805-S
SCREW-31646-S
SCREWS31079-S
STRAINER-9542^^^^/
"OZ%22RRM'^^^Wm
9922
^UKb>
LEVER-9531^^pr
WASHER-9632^^
J^SSS^
/
PUMP DS
I CHARGE
' ^^
CARBURETOR
^<Mm*.BODY-9512
jKr S
y NOZZLE GASKET-9580
'
W /
P U M P DISCHARGE
S
S
NEEDLE-9594
SPRING-9636
^Bfe.
ACCELERATOR
PUMP PISTON9631
PUMP BALL
CHECK RETAINER-9575
PUMP BALL CHECK- 9576
THROTTLE KICKER-9597
1008
1207
73
CHOKE PLATE-9549
b. Disassembly.
TENSION SPRING9539
The throttle plate and shaft and the choke plate and
shaft should not be removed from the carburetor, unless
absolutely necessary as difficulty may be encountered in
installing these parts in their correct position.
(1) REMOVE CHOKE LEVER AND THROTTLE
KICKER. Remove the screw and flat washer that secure
the choke lever to the air horn, and remove the lever,
fig. 45. Lift the choke lever plunger and spring from the
air horn. Remove the screw and washer holding the
throttle kicker to the main body. Lift the throttle kicker
and spring from the main body. Disconnect the pump
link from the pump rod and throttle shaft lever.
(2) REMOVE THROTTLE BODY AND AIR
HORN FROM MAIN BODY. Remove the screws holding the throttle body to the main body. Lift the throttle
body and gasket from the main body. Remove the
screws holding the air horn on the main body. Lift the
air horn and gasket from the main body.
(3) DISASSEMBLE MAIN BODY. Lift the accelerating pump assembly from the main body (fig. 46).
Remove the screw from each nozzle bar clamp and
remove the clamps. Lift the pump discharge nozzle and
the two nozzle bars from the main body. Remove the
two drain plugs and gaskets from the main body. Remove
the two main jets as shown in fig. 47. Remove the power
valve and gasket. Remove the pump check ball retainer
from the main body. A tool for this operation can be made
by bending the end of a small wire to form a hook. Insert
the hook into the bore and engage the end of the retainer. Turn the assembly upside down, besure to catch the
pump check ball and pump discharge needle.
(4) DISASSEMBLE AIR HORN. Remove the float
lever shaft, float, and float needle valve from the air horn
(fig. 48). Remove the float needle valve seat with a jet
wrench. Remove the screws holding the choke plate to
9805
1635
the choke shaft. Remove the choke plate from the shaft,
then remove the shaft.
(5) DISASSEMBLE THROTTLE BODY. Remove
the two idle fuel needles and springs (fig. 49). Remove
the throttle plates. Remove the throttle lever stop spring
and throttle lever. Slide the shaft out of the throttle body.
CARBURETOR BODY
BODY-9518
THROTTLE SHAFT
AND LEVER-9581
MAIN JETS
Jet Wrench-9510-A
9586
1508
1626
74
Clean all parts in a cleaning solvent except the carburetor power valve. Cleaning solvent may damage the
power valve diaphragm.
(1) THROTTLE BODY. Make certain that any
gum or varnish is removed from the throttle bores. Clean
the upper idle feed holes in the throat above the throttle
plates with drills number 60 (.0.040) and number 65
(0.035), drill and the lower idle discharge holes with
a number 56 (0.0465) drill. Clean the distributor
vacuum hole in the carburetor throttle body with a number 56 (0.0465) drill. Clean the idle adjusting holes.
Inspect the fit of the throttle plates when held in
the closed position and observe the amount of light that
can be seen around the edges of the plate. A very snug
fit is necessary for proper idling and low speed operation. The complete assembly should be discarded if wear
or looseness is evident.
Replace the idle adjusting needle if a ridge is visible
on the valve surface of the needle.
(2) MAIN BODY. Clean all passages with compressed air. Replace the main body if it is cracked, has
nicks large enough to permit leakage at any gasket
surface, or if it has stripped threads.
Inspect the accelerating pump and replace the pump
piston spring if it is broken. Replace the pump piston
if the leather cup is worn or damaged, or if the piston
expander spring is broken.
Inspect the idle tube and replace if it is plugged, bent,
damaged, or the screw driver slot is damaged. Replace
the pump discharge needle if it is ridged. Replace the
nozzle bar air bleed plug if it is clogged, threads are
stripped, or if the screw driver slot is damaged.
Replace the pump discharge nozzle if it is plugged,
broken, or damaged in any way.
Examine the power valve seat and replace the body
if the seat is damaged so that the valve will not seat
properly. This would cause fuel to leak into the lower
body and affect the fuel mixture.
(3) AIR HORN. Replace the air horn if it is cracked
or has nicks large enough to permit leakage at any
gasket surface.
Close the choke plate and hold the air horn in position to observe the fit of the plates in the air horn. If the
d. Assembly.
Always use new gaskets when rebuilding the carburetor. The gasket kit shown in fig. 50 is available from
Ford Dealers. An overhaul carburetor kit is also available and contains the parts shown in fig. 51.
(1) ASSEMBLE AIR HORN. Install the float
needle valve seat and new gasket. Install the choke shaft
and choke shaft spring in the air horn. Be sure the choke
shaft spring is in the slot provided in the air horn so the
choke plate will remain in the closed position. Place the
choke plate in the shaft and install new choke plate
screws but do not tighten the screws. Centralize the
valve by tapping it lightly. Hold the valve in place while
tightening the screws. Stake the screws in place on the
shaft. Install the float needle valve and float in the air
horn. Adjust the float level to 1.322-1.353 inches.
(2) ASSEMBLE MAIN BODY. Install standard
size number 51 main jets for sea level operation. At altitudes of 5,000 to 10,000 feet use number 49 and higher
altitudes use number 47. Install the two drain plugs
Oo ooo
O ooo
O
Fig. 508-Cylinder Carburetor Gasket Kit
1507
75
e. Installation.
Position a new gasket on the manifold. Place the carburetor on the manifold, install the lock washer and
nuts. Tighten the nuts evenly. Connect the choke and
throttle linkage to the carburetor. Connect the fuel line
and the distributor vacuum line. Place the air cleaner
on the carburetor, and tighten the clamp.
a. Fuel Pumps.
For servicing the fuel pump, kits are available for
both the 6 and 8-cylinder engines (fig. 54 and 55).
(1) OPERATION. The rotation of the camshaft
1637
1638
76
FUSJ.
GASKET-9417
GASK
SPRING-9380
VALVE-9352
DIAPHRAGM-9398
1642
Fig. 54-8-Cylinder
ARM-9376
RETAINER-9468
SCREEN-9368
GASKET-9367
OIL SEAL-9469
1512
CARBURETOR
DISCONNECT CARBURETOR FUEL1
LINE FROM FUEL PUMP
CARBURETOR!
FUEL PI
DISCONNECT FUEL LINE FROM
FUEL PUMP TO GAS TANK
1121
(6) ASSEMBLY. Position the rocker arm and bushing in the 6-cylinder fuel pump body. For the 8-cylinder pump, place the link rocker arm bushing and rocker
arm in position in the body.
Install the rocker arm pin. Place the diaphragm spring
and diaphragm in the body, and hook the diaphragm
pull rod on the lower link Install the rocker arm spring
in the rocker arm. Install the valve gaskets, valves, and
SCREW
31628-S
OCK
WASHER
34803-S
Y-9354
GASKET-9367
VALVE-9352
JE-9361
SCREW
26466.S
SHIPPING PLUG-9411
SCREEN-9368
VALVEGASKET-9;
ROCKER ARM
(6 CYL.J-9376
77
IAPHRAGM
9398
SPRING
9396
PIN-937
BUSHINGROCKER ARM
(V-8)-9376
ADAPTER-9416
NUT-33798-S
BODY-9375
BOLT-12148
WASHER
351242-S
PUSH ROD-9400
GASKET-9374
1643
f 9371
18
27068-S 26466-S 99368
1712
31628-S
Fig. 59Fuel Pump and Vacuum Booster Kit
78
CHAMBER "E"
DIAPHRAGM " C "
SPRING " D "
LINK "B"
ROCKER
"A"
TO WIPER
MOTOR " Q "
DIAPHRAGM
SPRING " N u
EXHAUST VALVE
I4
P"
1729
79
GROMMET9080
9030
GAUGE 9 2 7 5
-9076
GROMM ET_9072
PIPE9034
RETAINER-9008
PIPE9034
X
CAP9030
GROMMET-9080
^.R CLEANER
.GROMMET9072
8287
9047
GASKET-9276
TANK-9002
STRAP9056
CUP-14197
1175
80
a. Fans.
Different types of fans are used on the 8-cylinder and
6-cylinder engines. "(1) 8-Cylinder Fan" describes the
removal and installation procedure for the B-series
engine. The H-series fan removal and installation can
be found under the heading "(2) 6-Cylinder Fan."
(1) 8-CYLINDER FAN. The fan blades are secured
to the hub with rivets and are not removable as in the
6-cylinder engine. A four blade fan is used on 1949
models and a three blade fan on 1950 and 1951 models.
(a) REMOVAL. Remove the four cap screws and
belts and fan belt. Remove fan and bracket assembly.
(b) INSTALLATION. Position the fan and bracket
assembly on the generator bracket. Install the retaining
screws but do not tighten them. Install the fan belt.
Adjust the belt and tighten the screws.
(2) 6-CYLINDER FAN. A four blade fan is secured
to the hub with cap screws and is detachable from the
hub (three blade fan used on 1951 models).
fa) REMOVAL. Remove the four cap screws and
lockwashers securing the blades to the hub. Remove the
blades.
(b) INSTALLATION. Place the blades in position
against the hub. Install the cap screws (with lockwashers) and tighten them securely.
b. Belts.
Proper adjustment of the fan and generator belts must
be maintained at all times. A loose or broken belt will
cause improper operation of the water pump and gen*
erator. A belt that is too tight places a severe strain on
the water pump and generator bearings.
SECTIONAL VIEW OF
DIE SHOWING
TUBING LOCATED
AGAINST STOP PIN.
FIRST OPERATION
TOOL SHOWN
FORMING OUTSIDE
FLARE.
SECOND OPERATION
TOOL SHOWN
FORMING INSIDE
FLARE AND SEAT.
COMPLETED
DOUBLE-LAP FLARE
SHOWN IN INSERT.
2074
FAN BELT
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
1692
81
HUB-8567
IMPELLER-8512
GASKET
8507
1950 "B" SERIES
1691
1693
Fig.656-Cylinder
82
21
RETAINER
IMPELLER-8512
IMPELLER-8512
GASKET8"6
8507
PULLEY-8509
SEAL-8564
HOUSING
8505
PULLEY-8509
SHAFT AND
BEARING-8530
20514-S
HUB-856?
BUSHING-8520
RETAINER-8576
1681
SEAL-8564
GASKET-8507
1694
WATCH
rtlM
AND
BEARING
H j T | ys ny Jj*T]
SHAFT AND
BEARING-8530
IMPELLER-8512
SHAH
ASSEMBLY
8HA-3S3O-A
GASKET-8507
1524
Fig. 69-Late
1695
83
IMPELLER-8512-
10141
SLINGER-8550
SLINGER-8550
LOCK RING 8630
SHAFT AND BEARING
8530
SEAL
8564
20408-S
SHING
8520
20408-S
PULLEY
R.H.-8509
L.H.-8515
IMPELLER
8512
SEAL-8564
KET-8507
HOUSING
R.H.-8503
LH.-8504
PULLEY-8509
Fig. 70-Water
34807-S
Pump Assembly (Early "B"
Series Engine)
20514-S
1682
1683
Fig. 71-Water
84
8 CYLINDER
RADIATOR A N D FRONT
FENDER APRON SUPPORT
1506
1704
b. Radiator Replacement
(6or8-Cylinder).
85
c. Radiator Hose.
Radiator hoses should be replaced whenever they
become cracked or soggy.
(1) REMOVAL. Drain the radiator, then loosen
the clamp bolts at each end of the hose. Slide the hose
off the radiator connection and the cylinder head water
outlet connection (upper hose) or the water pump connection (lower hose).
(2) INSTALLATION. Position the clamps on each
end of the new hose. Slide the hose on the connections
andfirmlytighten the clamp bolts. Fill the radiator with
coolant, run the engine for several minutes and observe
the hose and connections for leaks.
d. Thermostats.
Two thermostats are used in the 8-cylinder engine
and one thermostat is used in the 6-cylinder engine.
Series
Series
Series
Series
Series
Series
Series
Series
Thermostat
Opens At
Part No.
157-162
148-153
148-153
177-182
157-162
167-172
152-157
148-153
7HA-8575-A3
7HA-8575-B1
7HA-8575-B3
7HA-8575-C*
8BA-8575-B
8BA-8575-C*
8BA-8575-D
8BA-8575-A
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part TWO
CHASSIS
Chapter
1
2
3
Page
Clutch.
Transmission (Conventional)
Transmission (Fordomatic)
....
..
86
88
93
1. CLUTCH
The clutifh assembly is the single plate type. Service
information on the clutch assembly is presented in this
section under five major headings as follows: "a. Construction," giving the detailed features of the clutch,
"b. Clutch Pedal Adjustment," which includes clutch
pedal free play adjustment; "c. Clutch and Disc
Removal," includes the removal procedure, "d. Parts
Inspection," describes checking, cleaning, and the necessary replacement of parts, and "e. Clutch and Disc
Installation," contains lubrication and the installation
procedure.
The Ford clutch, located in the flywheel housing, is a
single, dry plate, cushion-disc type (fig. 2). The cushiondisc construction consists of spring steel segments
between the facing, and damper springs between the
clutch disc and hub. The clutch disc is splined to the
transmission main drive gear, and facings are riveted on
each side of the disc. The facings contact the surface of
the flywheel on one side and the pressure plate on the
other side when the clutch is engaged.
The clutch pressure plate and cover assembly consists
of the pressure plate, clutch springs, clutch release
levers and cover, and are serviced as an assembly. The
three forged steel release levers, mounted on needle
roller bearings, have weights at the outer ends. The
faster the clutch revolves the greater the pressure on the
pressure plate due to the centrifugal force of the release
levers.
The clutch release bearing is of the pre-lubricated
sealed type which eliminates the need for periodic
lubrication.
The clutch release bearing hub is attached to the fork
end of the clutch release lever by two spring clips.
86
Section 1 Clutch
V-VA1
87
ra
2118
, PILOT BEARING
c. Parts Inspection.
Inspect the clutch disc for worn, loose, or oil soaked
facings, for loose rivets at the hub, and for distortion.
Replace the clutch disc if any of these defects are evident.
Inspect the surface of the pressure plate for evidence of
burning, checks, scores, or ridges. Generally the resurDISC ASSEMBLY-7550
2114
HUB ASSEMBLY-7561
SPRING-7605
ANTI-RATTLE SPRING-7562
PEDAL P A D - 2 4 54
351517-S
RELEASE EQUALIZER BAR-7528
EQUALIZER
CLUTCH
ANCHOR
BOLT-7507
ASPSEEDMABLYS-75T06
CLUTCH
"-
351517-S
SHAFT HOUSING
AND BRACKET-7536
RELEASE R O D - 7 5 2 1
CLUTCH PILOT
BEARING
PLATE-7513
7600
CLUTCH PRESSURE
PLATE ASSEMBLY-7563
353031-S
/
RETRACTING
SPRING-7523
33
*
33800-S
351062-S
BUSHING
7526
PAD-7996
351560-S
SPRING-7997
34847-S33800-S
2116
88
CAUTION: Avoid over lubrication of the pilot bearing to eliminate the possibility of lubricant being
thrown onto the clutch disc.
Place the clutch assembly in position on the flywheel
and align the splined hole in the center of the clutch disc
with the pilot bearing in the flywheel with a pilot tool.
2. TRANSMISSION (CONVENTIONAL)
A three-speed constant mesh transmission is installed
as standard equipment on 1949, 1950, and 1951 cars. The
transmission used on 1950 models is the same assembly
used on 1949 models. The transmission used on the 1951
models is of the same basic construction as the 1949 and
1950 models. However, the gear tooth construction was
altered and parts are not interchangeable with parts
from the transmission used on the 1949 and 1950 models.
The service information presented in this section
applies to both transmission assemblies and is presented
under the following headings: "a. Removal," "b. Disassembly," "c. Disassembly of Subassemblies," "d.
Cleaning, Inspection and Adjustment," "e. Subassembly
build-up," "f. Assembly," "g. Installation," and "H.
Gear Shift Linkage."
The 3-speed transmission illustrated in fig. 5 has three
forward speeds and one reverse speed with second and
third (direct drive) gears in constant mesh. Helical gears
are used with a synchronizer for second and third gears
which reduces the possibility of clashing the gears. The
main shaft is supported by needle bearings at the front
end, a ball bearing assembly at the rear end of the transmission case, and by a bushing in the rear end of the
transmission extension. The countershaft gear is supported by long needle bearings at each end, and the
reverse idler gear is carried by a bronze bushing. The one
piece clutch shaft and transmission main drive gear is
carried in a ball bearing at the front end of the transmission case and in an oil impregnated sintered bronze pilot
bearing in the flywheel at the rear end of the engine
crankshaft. The second-speed gear rotates on a bronze
bushing which is pressed into the gear hub.
The synchronizer assembly consists of the hub sleeve,
the hub, two synchronizer blocking rings, three hub
inserts and the two snap rings which retain the inserts
in the hub slots.
An oil seal is pressed into the drive shaft end of the
transmission extension housing. An oil baffle is used
behind the transmission main drive gear bearing.
a. Removal.
Remove the muffler inlet pipe assembly. Remove the
clevis pin which attaches the parking brake equalizer
rod to the equalizer lever, then disconnect the lever from
the equalizer bracket. Disconnect the clutch pedal and
gearshift linkage at the transmission. Remove the speedometer cable and gear. Remove the drive shaft. Remove
the cap screws which attach the transmission extension
to the No. 2 frame crossmember. Place a support under
the engine, then remove the No. 2 frame crossmember.
b. Disassembly.
The following procedure outlines the disassembly of
Tool7600-D
PILOT BEARING
2115
89
c. Disassembly of Sub-assemblies.
The procedures for disassembling the individual subassemblies are given in the following paragraphs.
(1) MAIN SHAFT ASSEMBLY. Remove the snap
ring that holds the main shaft assembly in the extension.
Tap the main shaft (fig. 6) out of the extension, with a
soft hammer. Remove the transmission mainshaft synchronizer snap ring and pull or press the synchronizer
assembly, intermediate gear, and sliding gear off the
main shaft. Remove the snap ring that secures the
speedometer gear on the main shaft, and remove the
speedometer gear. Remove the speedometer gear key.
Press the main shaft rear bearing off the main shaft.
Remove the oil seal and rear bushing from the transmission extension.
(2) SYNCHRONIZER ASSEMBLY. Push the synchronizer hub out of the sleeve (fig. 6). This releases
the three synchronizer blocks. Remove the synchronizer
block springs from each end of the synchronizer hub.
(3) MAIN DRIVE GEAR ASSEMBLY. Remove the
snap ring that secures the bearing on the shaft, and press
the bearing off the shaft. Remove the oil baffle from the
shaft (fig. 6).
YNCHRONIZER-i
BLOCKING RING |
INGS (2)I-SYNCHRONIZER ASSEMBLY
3RD GEAR-*
*-2ND GEAR
HIFT PLATEEEVE
1
MAINSHAFT
1ST AND REVERSE SLIDING GEAR
/
BEARING ASSEMBLY
1ST GEAR-*
REVERSE GEAR /
/
GEAR SHIFT
HOUSING
MAINSHAFT
ROLLERS (15)
MAIN DRIVE GEAR
COUNTERSHAFT GEAR
THRUST WASHERS
ROLLERS (22 EACH END)
BEARING SPACER
EXTENSION TUBE
REAR ENGINE BRACKET
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE GEAR
ULL BEARING
THRUST WASHERS (DUAL)
RlEVERSE IDLER GEAR
TRANSMISSION CASE
2122
DRAIN PLUG
90
INTERMEDIATE AND
HIGH SHIFTER
FORK-7282
LOW AND
REVERSE SHIFTER
FORK-7231
NUTS
LOCKWASHERS
FLAT WASHERS
SHIFT LEVERS '
RETAINER
OIL SEALS
SPRING
LOCKWASHERS
AND CAP SCREWS
STEEL BALLS
HOUSING
7222
RETAINING PINS
HIGH AND INTERMEDIATE SHIFTER
CAM AND SHAFT-7280
GASKET
LOCKWASHERS
SHIFTER
FORK-7230
7223
AND CAP SCREWS
2125
BLOCKS
HUB
ING
SYNCHRONIZER RING
INTERMEDIATE GEAR
' SLIDING GEAR
MAIN SHAFT
SNAP RING
BEARING
SNAP RING
SYNCHRONIZER ASSEMBLY
RETAINER PIN
BEARING RETAINER
COUNTERSHAFT
^"""THRUST WASHERS
OIL SEAL
CAP SCREWS
WASHERS
TER GEAR
CAP
MAIN DRIVE GEAR
,
THRUST WASHER
BEARING RETAINER
BEARING ROLLERS
CLUSTER Gf
2121
91
e. Sub-assembly Build-up.
When building up transmission sub-assemblies carefully select splined shafts and their mating parts to obtain
a sliding fit with no backlash. All thrust clearances must
be rigidly controlled to within the recommended clearances. Failure to observe these precautions could result
in the transmission jumping out of one or several gears
either under torque or on coast. The following procedure
applies to the assembly and installation of the transmission sub-assemblies.
(1) COUNTERSHAFT GEAR. Position the countershaft bearing spacer in the countershaft gear (fig. 6).
Insert a countershaft gear roller retainer shaft tool in
the countershaft gear assembly. If the tool is not available
use a countershaft cut to the length of the gear cluster.
Install 22 rollers in each end of the gear cluster. Coat the
bearing retainers and thrust washers with grease to help
keep them in place. Install a bearing retainer at each end
of the countershaft gear. Two thrust washers are used
at the rear. Place the thrust washer with the slotted hole
next to the cluster assembly, with the babbitt side toward
the steel washer and the steel thrust washer next to the
transmission case. Install the front thrust washer between
the transmission case and cluster gear making sure the
tongue on the thrust washer is entered in the groove
provided in the case. Place the cluster gear assembly
with the dummy shaft in place in the transmission case,
allowing it to rest on the bottom of the case.
s-\
J."
\
II
l'/a
2236
2997
92
f. Assembly.
Place the.reverse idler gear in position in the transmission case, and install the reverse idler gear shaft,
making sure to align the retainer pin hole with the hole
in the transmission case (fig. 5). Assemble the main
drive gear in the Tront of the transmission case, making
sure the snap ring on the bearing is firmly seated against
the case (fig. 5). Install the retainer with a new gasket,
at the main drive gear shaft with the drain groove at the
bottom. Install the cap screws and lock washers that
secure the retainer to the transmission case.
Install the main shaft assembly in the transmission
extension, securing it with the snap ring (fig. 5). Using a
new gasket on the front of the transmission extension,
install the main shaft assembly and extension on the
transmission case. Use care not to displace any of the
bearing rollers when entering the front end of the main
shaft in the main drive gear shaft. Turn the extension to
allow installation of the countershaft, then position the
countershaft gear assembly and thrust washers, and
install the countershaft from the rear of the case, pushing the dummy shaft out the front of the case.
Tool 7688-N
2998
^2124
93
place with the clevis pin and a cotter pin. Install the
equalizer rod on the equalizer lever, then install the
muffler inlet pipe assembly.
Align the retainer pin hole with the hole in the case,
and install the countershaft and reverse idler shaft
retainer pin.
Turn the extension on the transmission case, aligning
the cap screw holes. Install the washers and cap screws,
using the internal tooth lock washers on the two lower
cap screws. .
Install the gearshift housing on the transmission case,
using a new gasket and secure it with lock washers and
cap screws.
h. Gearshift Linkage.
g. Installation.
Position the transmission assembly on the flywheel
housing using two guide pins and secure the assembly in
place with the attaching screws. Install the No. 2 frame
crossmember, then attach the transmission extension to
the crossmember with the lock washers and cap screws.
Install the drive shaft, then install the speedometer
cable. Connect the clutch pedal and gearshift linkage at
the transmission. Position the parking brake equalizer
lever on the equalizer bracket, then secure the lever in
3. TRANSMISSION (FORDOMATIC)
A hydraulic torque converter combined with a fully
automatic transmission is available as optional equipment
for the 1951 cars. This section contains information on
driving and servicing vehicles equipped with Fordomatic transmission. The driving instructions are given
under the heading, "a. Driving Instructions." Service
operations are presented in this section under the following self explanatory headings: "b. Engine Idle Adjustment," "c. Transmission Fluid," "d. Throttle Linkage
GEARSHIFT LEVER
ASSEMBLY-7210
PIN-7221
^-SPRING-7208
INSULATOR-7246
SPRING
7227
351341-S' 7213
44722-S
LEVER-7303
r-72009-S
351341-S
ROD EN
44722-S
7353
72009-S
337
PIN-7221
PIN-7337
CUP-7314
SHIFT
GEARSHIFT TUBE
AND SOCKET
ASSEMBLY-7209
RETAINER-7348
ROD
7326
STEERING C O L U M N - 3 5 0 9
24426-S
34846-S
CAP-7318
SLEEVE-7336
LEVER ASSEMBLY-7302
353023-S
GEAR SHIFT LEVERS
351560-S
CAP-7319
2358
Fig. J 3-GearshiftDisassembled
2264
94
a. Driving Instructions*
The instructions for driving a Fordomatic transmission
equipped Ford car are presented under the headings,
"(1) Selector Lever Positions," "(2) Starting the Car,"
and "(3) Driving The Car."
(1) SELECTOR LEVER POSITIONS. The Fordomatic transmission provides five different control ranges
which may be selected manually through use of the
selector lever at the top of the steering column. A pointer
on the selector lever housing and a stationary dial
mounted on the steering column aid in locating the
lever in the desired range (fig. 15). The five different
ranges are each identified by a letter on the dial. Reading
from left to right the letters are, "P"Parking, "R"
Reverse, "N"Neutral, "Dr"Drive, and "Lo"Low.
When the headlights are on, the selector lever position
is indicated by a dot of light.
The shift from neutral (N) to drive (Dr) or from drive
(Dr) to neutral (N) is accomplished by moving the lever
backward or forward. To shift into any of the other
ranges, move the selector lever until a stop is felt, lift
the lever slightly, then move lever to position desired.
CAUTION: Do not move the selector lever to the
reverse (R) position while the car is moving forward
at a speed in excess of five (5) miles per hour. Do
not move the lever to the parking (P) position while
the car is moving in either direction.
(2) STARTING THE CAR. As a safety precaution
the starter will operate only when the selector lever is
in the neutral (N) position.
(a) UNDER NORMAL CONDITIONS. Place the selector
lever in the neutral (N) position, then start the engine.
When the engine is idling smoothly, move the selector
lever to the drive (Dr) position, then depress the accelerator pedal.
(b) PUSHING OR TOWING TO START. The car may
be
I I I P * JgKBK&im* '* ^
5119
95
COVER PLATE
c. Transmission Fluid.
The transmission isfilledat the factory with Hydraulic
Transmission FluidType A. Always use this type when
adding or changing fluid since the use of improper or
inferior fluid will impair the operation of the transmission.
The procedure for checking the fluid level is given
under the heading "(l) Checking Fluid Level." Fluid
leakage could occur at several points; these points and
the procedure for checking leakage are given under the'
heading, "(2) Leakage Check Points." The procedure
for changing the transmission fluid is given under the
heading, "(3) Changing Transmission Fluid."
(1) CHECKING FLUID LEVEL. The fluid level
should be checked at least every 1000 miles, using the
following procedure.
ANTI-STALL DASH POT
FLOOR MAT
FLUID LEVEL
INDICATOR
ADJUSTING SCREW
5134
5196
5197
Fig. 78Fluid Level Indicator
96
(2) LEAKAGE CHECK POINTS. Inspect the bottom of the floor pan at the rear of the transmission for
evidences of fluid. If fluid is found here, the rear extension housing seal is leaking between the two sections of
the telescopic shield. Replace the seal.
Check the speedometer cable and replace the rubber
seal if necessary. Check the governor inspection plate
and install a new gasket if needed.
Leakage around the oil pan gasket generally can be
stopped by tightening the attaching bolts to proper
torque (10-13 foot-pounds). If necessary, install a new
gasket. Inspect the drain plug. If tightening does not
stop leakage, replace the plug.
CUP
Tool-77230-F
5198
97
CLEVIS PIN
Z-BAR
CLEVIS PIN
Z-BAR
TO Z-BAR ROD
5199
SLEEVE
LOCK NUT
STEERING COLUMN
on the rod with the lock nut while holding the clevis in
alignment to prevent binding.
GROMMET
SELECTOR ARM
51
MANUAL LEVER
98
.THROTTLE LINK
Pressure Gauge
Tool77270
THROTTLE LEVER
GAUGE HOSE
5192
Pressure Gauge
GAUGE HOSE
5194
THROTTLE LEVER
Tool77270
THROTTLE LEVER
5193
Pressure Gauge
Tool77270
GAUGE HOSE
5195
99
g. Band Adjustments.
The front band and rear band adjustment procedures
are covered below under ."(1) Front Band" and "(2)
Rear Band."
(1) FRONT BAND. Drain the transmission fluid
from the pan, then remove the pan. Use a drain can
with a fine mesh screen. Remove the fluid screen from
the transmission.
Loosen the front servo adjusting screw lock nut 2 full
turns with an %" wrench. With the front band adjusting tool shown in fig. 27, insert the gauge block between
the servo piston stem and the adjusting screw and
REAR SERVO
LOCK NUT
5189
COVER PLATE
Too/7795
5202
100
tion indicated by the arrow (fig. 29), then pull the body
off the servo tubes.
To install the control valve body, align the servo
tubes with the holes in the control valve body. Position
the inner throttle lever between the throttle lever stop
and downshift valve, and at the same time push the
throttle valve in to clear the transmission case. Make
sure the manual valve is aligned with the actuating pin
in the manual detent lever. Install but do not tighten
the control valve body attaching bolts. Tighten the
front servo attaching bolt to 30-35 foot-pounds torque.
Install the two steel tubes in the pressure regulator
and control valve body. Tighten the control valve body
attaching bolts to 8-10 foot-pounds torque. Adjust the
band. Position the fluid screen over the rear pump inlet
tube, and then over the front pump inlet tube. Position
a new gasket on the transmission case, then install the
pan. Tighten the capscrews to 10-13 foot-pounds torque.
Fill the transmission case with the recommended fluid.
EXTENSION HOUSING
5188
Remove the governor inspection cover from the extension housing. Rotate the drive shaft to bring the governor body in line with the inspection hole. Remove the
two screws that secure the governor body to the
counterweight.
Too/1175-AE
1. LOOSEN FRONT
SERVO ATTACHING BOLT
5050
Tool7657
5155
101
CONVERTER'
COVER
DRAIN PLUG
5052
MANUAL LEVER
5118
5120
Raise the assembly with a jack making sure the converter pilot, housing dowel holes, and flex plate holes
are in proper alignment. Move the assembly forward into
position. Install the lower two converter housing bolts
(40-45 foot-pounds) and lift the transmission to take the
weight off the engine support bar. Remove the engine
support bar.
Raise the engine and replace the cross member, then
install all but the top cross member bolts. Install the rear
engine support. Install the drive shaft, parking brake
assembly, and speedometer cable.
Connect the manual linkage at the transmission
manual lever. Connect the throttle linkage at the transmission throttle lever.
Remove the converter housing lower front plate. Place
the flex plate in either of the positions shown in fig. 32,
then install the six converter to flex plate bolts. Install
the center bolt on each side first. Tighten all bolts to
25-28 foot-pounds torque. Install both front plates on
MANUAL LEVER
DETENT LEVER
5121
102
DETENT BALL
VA" TUBING
the ratchet on the Inner end clears the detent ball, then
remove the detent ball and spring.
5135
5136
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part TWO
CHASSIS
Chapter
1
2
3
Page
103
Ill
115
103
104
RING GEAR
BEARING CAP
CASE
DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
ING CAP
rep/ocer 4798-N
ADJUSTING
NUT LOCK
ADJUSTING NUT LOCK
2388
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
ADJUSTING NUT
2157
RETAINER PLATE
AXLE SHAFT
SPLINE
AXLE SHAFT FLANGl
2156
2158
Fig. 5Removing Axle Shaft
105
2169
Fig. 6Pinion Shaft Oil Seal Removal
106
Tighten the nut until the bearing pre-load is 15-20 inchpounds. The pre-load may be checked with the scale
shown in fig. 14.
NOTE: Alternately turn the drive pinion while
tightening the nut to properly seat the bearing.
Use either of the pinion depth gauges shown in fig. 15
to check the drive pinion depth.
NOTE: When using the tool shown in "A" fig. 15,
subtract 0.5 inch from the micrometer reading.
If the pinion depth exceeds 2.0 inches plus or minus
0.002 inch, shims equal to the exceeded amount must be
installed in back of the pinion rear bearing cup. Shims
of 0.003, 0.005, 0.010, and 0.020 inch are available for
servicing the old style carrier.
EXAMPLE: The pinion depth reading is 2.007
inches, therefore, because of the plus or minus 0.002
inch tolerance, a 0.005 inch shim is required.
Remove the universal joint nut, washer, flange, and
pinion assembly from the carrier. Install the required
amount of shims in back of the pinion rear bearing cup.
Position the drive pinion assembly in the carrier, then
install the spacer and the front bearing. Place the cil
seal on the pinion shaft, then drive the seal into place
using the tool shown in fig. 16. Install the universal joint
flange, using the tool shown in fig. 13, then install the
DIFFERENTIAL
BEARING
BEARING CUP
NUT LOCK
CAP SCREWS
BEARING CU
ADJUSTING NUT
THRUST WASH
DIFFERENTIAL PINIO
PINIQN SHAFT
THRUST WASHER
DIFFERENTIAL GEARS
BEARI
SPACER
PINION BEARING-
OIL SEAL
PINION BEARING C
PINION BEARING
2159
107
DIFFERENTIAL
CARRIER
REMOVING FRONT
BEARING CUP
REMOVING REAR
BEARING CUP
2162
2160
DIFFERENTIAL
HOUSING
.Us >< *
2161
2164
Fig. 11Drive Pinion Bearing Cup Installation
108
TOOL4858-P
1 JOINT FLANGE
DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER
2171
2386
2387
109
2163
torque. Fill the axle housing to the level of the filler plug
hole with the recommended lubricant. If a new ring gear
and pinion set is installed, use lubricant M-4642-A. If
the ring gear and pinion set is reinstalled, use inactive
type or multi-purpose hypoid lubricant
CARRIER
2165
2170
110
"\
RING GEAR
Dial Indicator
Tool4076-N
Differential Bearing
Replacer tool-4222-N
BEARING
DIFFERENTIAL
2166
2167
Fig. 19Checking and Adjusting Backlash
BACKLASH
OUTWARD
MOVEMENT
OF PINION
OUTWARD
MOVEMENT
OF GEAR
INWARD
MOVEMENT
OF GEAR
GEAR NOMENCLATURE
CONTACT O N HEEL
CORRECTION: DECREASE BACKLASH.
MOVE RING GEAR TOWARD PINION.
CONTACT O N TOE
CORRECTION: INCREASE BACKLASH.
MOVE RING GEAR AWAY FROM PINION.
2168
111
112
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING
DIFFERENTIAL CASE
2175
rear axle bolts and secure the shaft on the axle housing
with the lock nuts. Tighten the nuts to 30-35 foot-pounds
torque. Install the brake drum on the axle flange securing the drum with the Tinnerman nuts.
b. Differential Repair.
The removal, disassembly, adjustment, and installation
procedures on the differential and drive pinion are given
below.
(1) DRIVE PINION OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT.
Disconnect the drive shaft at the rear universal joint.
Mark the position of the universal joint flange, nut, and
pinion shaft with a punch to aid in obtaining the same
pre-load when assembling the unit. Remove the universal
Differential Housing
Spreader Tool - 4000-A
2174
2176
113
Tool-4858-E
2179
Fig. 26^Companion
Flange Installation
ing cup, and shim pack from the housing with the tools
shown infig.10.
Press the rear bearing from the pinion shaft and note
the marking on the face of the pinion. The pinion face
may be marked from05 to + 10, including zero. This
mark is used to properly position the pinion assembly
in the axle housing.
(5) DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION AND
DEPTH ADJUSTMENT. If the replacement of the
ring gear and pinion is necessary, try to select a ring
gear and pinion set with the same pinion mark as the
one removed, then no additions or deductions from the
shim packs will be necessary. If a "plus"-marked pinion
replaces a ' 'minus" -marked pinion, the pinion rear bearing cup must be removed, and shims equal to the difference of the markings deducted from the shim pack, and
a like amount of shims must be deducted from the shim
park between the front bearing and spacer. If a "minus"marked pinion is used to replace a "plus"-marked pinion, add shims equal to the difference of the markings,
and also add an equal amount of shims to the pack between the front bearing and spacer. When a "plus"marked pinion replaces another "plus"-marked pinion,
shims must be deducted if the new pinion mark is higher,
and added if it is lower, while the opposite applies if both
pinions are "minus". When replacing ring gears or pinions, be sure to replace both parts as they are sold only
in matched sets. The pinion and ring gear tooth combi-
+ 10 +9
+8
+7
+6
+5
+4
+3
+2
+1
-1
-2
-3
-4
-5
STATION
WAGON
4.27:1
1.740 1.741 1.742 1.743 1.744 1.745 1.746 1.747 1.748 1.749 1.750 1.751 1.752 1.753 1.754 1.755
STATION
WAGON
3.91:1
1.647 1.648 1.649 1.650 1.651 1.652 1.653 1.654 1.655 1.656 1.657 1.658 1.659 1.660 1.661 1.662
Micrometer
Reading
Tool No. 4020-A
114
0.005 inch
Dial indicator
2178
Fig. 27Measuring Differential Assembly End Play
115
d. Axle Installation.
Install the rear wheels, then roll the axle assembly into
position under the vehicle. Install the spring clips (Ubolts), washers, and nutsl Tighten the nuts to 55-60
foot-pounds torque. Connect the drive shaft to the rear
axle universal joint flange. Connect the parking brake
cable to the equalizer rod, then install the brake cable
brackets to the frame crossmember. Connect the hydraulic brake hose to the rear axle hydraulic brake line, then
lower the vehicle to the floor. ,
3. DRIVE LINES
Power is transmitted from the transmission to the rear
axle by means of a Hotchkiss straight line drive type
drive line (propeller shaft).
The drive line is composed of the universal joints, the
connecting shaft, and the attaching flanges. The drive
shaft is attached to the transmission and rear axle through
universal joints and is equipped with a slip joint at the
transmission to compensate for the oscillatory motion of
the rear axle.
WASHER
356504-S
4033
NUT
351145-S
BEARING
BEARING
PINION BEARING SHIM-4672
WNG-4221
DIFFERENTIAL CASE4205
p^ggp v
\
LOCK WASHERS-34807-S
CAP SCREWS-20328-S
>^
BEARING CAPS
\
LOCK WASHERS34922-S
CAP SCREWS-355765-S
2173
116
(fig. 29) from under the yoke and around the needle
bearing races. With a drift approximately the same size
as the needle bearing race, press one bearing race through
the yoke. With a pair of pliers, remove the opposite bearing which is partially forced out of the yoke. Remove the
spider from the yoke, then repeat the same procedure
for the other pair of bearings.
^SPIDER ASSY-7084
U-JOINT FLANGE351588-S
356112-S
707J
70747096'
7074
7096
FLANGE BEARING-467J
LOCK PLATE-4693'
355208-
2253
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part TWO
CHASSIS
Chapter
Running Gear
Section
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Page
Frames
Front Suspension
Rear Springs
Shock Absorbers
Steering Gear
Steering Linkage
Wheels and Tires
Hubs and Bearings
118
120
126
126
128
132
133
135
7 V 4 " HOLES MUST BE PARALLEL WITH NORMAL TOP OF FRAME WITHIN ,075" m 8
-!
3>/fe"|
ra
i
I
4-W
1
* - 6"
n ^
'^i
117
j J^.
2%"
* A"
\
M
TOP OF FRAME
1
2395
118
1. FRAMES
The frame of a vehicle serves two purposes. First, it
provides support for the body, engine, power train, and
the other chassis units. Secondly, the frame maintains
the chassis units in the correct relationship necessary
to permit their normal operation.
The frame used on passenger cars and station wagons
is the box type. The convertible chassis employs the
"X" type cross member in the box frame.
Four cross members are riveted to the frame. The fifth,
the engine rear support cross member, is bolted. The
convertible frame has three cross members in addition
to the "X" cross member. All are riveted to the frame
with the exception of the engine rear support cross
member. Six body to frame brackets are riveted to the
box frame side rails.
3'/32"
frame, some of the dimensions shown in these illustrations may be difficult to measure. In this case, the
diagonal or "X" checking method may be used. In this
method, points are selected along one side of the whole
frame for which there are corresponding points on the
opposite side of the frame. To ensure accuracy when
using this method, the vehicle should be placed on a
level floor and the points of measurement should be
transferred carefully from the frame to the floor.
c. Frame Reinforcing.
After a bent frame member has been straightened it
should be closely inspected. If cracks or strains show, the
frame member should either be reinforced or replaced.
Reinforcements can be made from channel, angle, or
2%"
Section 1Frames
119
HOLES MUST BE PARALLEL WITH NORMAL TOP OF FRAME WITHIN .075 IN 8V2
TOP OF FRAME
120
d. Replacement.
e. Frame Welding.
2. FRONT SUSPENSION
Passenger cars are equipped with independent front
suspensions of the type shown in fig. 7. Coil springs are
mounted between the lower suspension arms and the
frame, and are controlled by telescopic direct action
shock absorbers. The supports, which carry the spindles
and wheels, are clamped to adjustable bushings in the
suspension arms. The upper bushing is eccentric and
controls the camber angle. The lower bushing controls
the caster angle. The suspension arms are pivoted on
bushings threaded onto the ends of the inner shafts which
are bolted to the frame.
7VA"
7VA"
121
1VV
2407
car, but the sharper arc causes the arm to come in faster
and farther than the lower arm.
The difference in the arc of travel between the upper
and lower arms means that when the spring deflects, the
support, the spindle bolt, and the wheel all lean in at the
top. The hub of the wheel moves in toward the car, but
this movement is compensated for by the leaning action
of the wheel, and the tire remains in the same track on the
PIVOT SHAFT
BUSHING
PIVOT SHAFT
UPPER ARM
SPRING
SUPPORT
KING PIN
BUMPER
7
STABILIZER
LOWER ARM
SHOCK ABSORBER
2301
2305
122
a. Replacement.
Position the inner arm and seals in the lower arm, then
install the lower arm inner bushings. Tighten the bushings to at least 50 foot-pounds torqtie. Position the lower
arm on the front crossmember then install the arm to
spindle support bolt. Tighten the bolt to 70-80 footpounds torque, then install the nut. Tighten the nut to
70-80 foot-pounds torque and install the cotter pin.
Place the spring in the spring seat with the flat end of
the spring upward, then position the spring insulator on
the spring. Position a jack under the inner shaft, and
raise the lower arm to the frame. Align the bolt holes in
the inner shaft and cross member with a drift, then install the bolts. Tighten the bolts to 45-55 foot-pounds
torque. Install the shock absorber, install the stabilizer
encj. clip (or clips) on the lower arm, then remove the jack.
(2) FRONT SUSPENSION UPPER ARM. Place a
jack under the lower arm spring seat, and raise the car.
Remove the front wheel. Wire the spindle support to the
frame to avoid damage to the brake hose from undue
tension. Remove the two cap screws which attach the
upper arm inner shaft to the frame. Remove the spindle
support bolt nut, thread the upper arm to spindle support
bolt out of the arm, then remove the upper arm and the
upper arm outer seals. Remove the upper arm inner
bushings from the arm, then remove the inner shaft and
seals. Inspect the upper arm seals and discard if deteri-
TNNERSHAFT SEAL
V'lKlK
3056
BOLT3072
353043-S
BUSHING3046
SPINDLE SUPPORT
FRONT CROSSMEMBER
SEAL3075
34449-S
353031-S
BUSHING
ASSEMBLY
3062^
3075
BUMPER
3025
3067
353092-S
34847-S
BUSHING3110
SPRING5310
SPINDLE
SUPPORT ASSEMBLY
SPINDLE BOLT
3115
351129-S
355758-S ^
BEARING
ASSEMBLY3123
353031
BUSHING ASSEMBLY
35081 1 - S N _
INNER S H A F T \
V
3057
SPINDLE
ASSEMBLY
3105
355635-S
N>>352655-S
Y
, Q N O34032-S
* * ^ x 72035-S
353043-S
SEAL3088
LOWER A R M
STABILIZER BAR
2302
BUSHING3089
353031-S
7 2 0
^ C ^ ^
3^14g.S
~~"3088
"
2 385
123
Spindle Bushing
Remover and Replacer
3110-N
2391
2308
124
3123
353092-S
Fig. 13-Spindle
2403
Bolt and Bushing Kit (8A-3111-B)
ra:
2392
F/g. 14Spindle Bushing Installation
2393
2394
Fig. J6Reaming Spindle Bushings
125
,.84 DIA.
.010
.012
INSULATOR RETAINERS
1.25DIA.
STABILIZER INSULATORS
2304
2309
b. Stabilizers.
The 1950 and 1951 stabilizer assembly differs from the
1949 stabilizer in location and method of mounting.
Service information on the stabilizer assembly used on
the 1949 cars and station wagons is given in (1). Service
information on the stabilizer assembly used on the 1950
and 1951 cars and station wagons is given in (2).
(1) 1949 CARS. The 1949 stabilizer bar is mounted
in two rubber insulators which are encircled by the stabilizer brackets bolted to the frame side rails (fig. 18).
A rubber insulator is installed by press fit on either end
of the stabilizer ban The insulators are held in place by
the insulator retainers which are bolted to the front suspension lower arm assemblies.
(a) REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY. Remove stabilizer
retainer to lower suspension arm bolts, then remove the
retainer (fig. 9). Remove stabilizer to frame bolts, then
remove stabilizer assembly from the vehicle. Remove
stabilizer insulators from the stabilizer bar.
(b) ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION. Coat stabilizer insulators with hydraulic brake fluid, then slide insulators
into place on stabilizer bar (fig. 18). Position stabilizer
assembly on vehicle frame, and secure in place with
attaching bolts, then install stabilizer insulator retainers.
(2) 1950 AND 1951 CARS. The 1950 and 1951 stabilizer assembly, fig. 19, is mounted on the front suspension lower arm assemblies. Two rubber insulators are
installed on each end of the stabilizer bar. The insulators
are held in place by the insulator retainers which are
clamped to the front suspension lower arm assemblies
at the inner and outer ends.
(a) REMOVAL AND DISASSEMBLY. Remove stabilizer
retainer to lower suspension arm bolts, remove retainers,
then remove stabilizer assembly from the vehicle (fig. 19).
Slide the stabilizer insulators off the stabilizer bar.
(b) ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION. Coat stabilizer insulators with hydraulic brake fluid, then slide insulators
into position on stabilizer bar (fig. 19). Position the bar
on the lower suspension arms, then install the retainers.
STABILIZER BRACKET
LOWER SUSPENSION ARM (FORWARD CHANNEL)
STABILIZER RETAINER
Fig. 18-Stabilizer
STABILIZER INSULATOR
2303
XI
2310
126
sion arms with the offset in the upward position (fig. 21).
STUD AND
WASHER ASSEMBLY
\
^SHACKLE
NUT BUSHING (2)
SHACKLE STUDS
3. REAR SPRINGS
The rear springs are of the semi-elliptic leaf type. The
front end of each rear spring is mounted in a stationary
hanger which is attached to the frame side rail. The rear
end of each rear spring on the 1949 and 1950 vehicles is
shackled to the side rail to allow for the variations in the
length of the spring during spring compression and rebound. The rear ends of the springs on 1951 vehicles are
shackled to the shackle tension bars which are bolted to
the frame side rails (fig. 23).
Each rear spring is attached to the rear, axle housing
with two "U"-shaped spring clips. Then spring leaves are
held together and in alignment by means of the spring
center bolt. Three rubber insulated spring clamps are
installed on each rear spring to maintain the alignment
of the leaves. Wax impregnated fabric inserts are installed between the outer ends of the first four leaves of
each spring to eliminate spring squeak and to control
interleaf friction. The rubber bushings installed at the
spring hangers and shackles eliminate the need for lubrication at these points.
a. Removal.
Raise the rear of the vehicle and place stationary jacks
under the frame and rear axle. Disconnect the shock
absorber at the rear spring clip plate. Remove the spring
clip nuts and the spring clips. Remove the stud and
washer assembly from the front hangar. Remove the
nuts from the shackle bar studs and remove the outer
shackle bar (figs. 22 and 23). Pull the rear spring off the
lower shackle stud, then remove spring from vehicle.
4. SHOCK ABSORBERS
Passenger cars and station wagons are equipped with
hydraulic shock absorbers of the direct-acting type. The
front shock absorbers are mounted through the center of
the coil springs and are fastened at the top to the dome
in the frame, and at the bottom, to the lower suspension
SHACKLE ASSEMBLY-
RETAINER
RETAINER-INNER
OUTER-R.H.
CLAMP-INSULATOR
RETAINER
OUTER-L.H.
2311
Front
>
Fig, 23Rear Spring Installation1951
2404
127
RUBBER BUSHINGS
a. Removal.
Before replacing a shock absorber, check the action
of the shock absorbers by grasping the bumper and
jouncing the car up and down. If the shock absorbers are
in good condition the car will immediately settle to a
normal position after the bumper is released. If the car
continues to jounce, or remains displaced, remove the
shock aosorbers for further checking as follows:
To remove a front shock absorber, fig. 24, remove the
lock nut, washer, and rubber bushing from the upper
stud at the top of the dome on the frame. Remove the
two cap screws from the plate in the lower suspension
arm and remove the shock absorber.
Remove the lock nut and stud nut from the lower end
of the absorber, then remove the bushings, retainers,
and the mounting plate. To remove a rear shock absorber, fig. 25, remove the nuts from the studs in the
spring plate and in the frame side rail. Remove the shock
absorber and rubber bushings from the studs.
b. Testing.
To check a shock absorber removed from a car, clamp
the lower end (small diameter) in a vise in a near vertical
position and pump it a few times to expel any air. A
good shock absorber will have a steady drag in both
LOCK NUT
-O
o
BUSHING R E T A I N E R S ^ - - ^ ^ > R U B B E R
BUSHINGS
REAR SHOCK
ABSORBER
RUBBER BUSHINGS
2318
c. Installation.
To install a front shock absorber, proceed as follows:
Place the bushing retainers, bushings, and mounting
plate on the lower end of the shock absorber (fig. 24),
then install the stud nut. Tighten the nut to 42-54 inchpounds torque, then install the lock nut. Tighten the
lock nut to 30-40 inch-pounds torque. Place one retainer
and bushing on the upper end of the unit, then position
the shock absorber in the coil spring. Install the lower
mounting plate to frame bolts. Place the remaining bushing retainers and bushing on the upper stud. Install the
upper stud nut. Tighten the nut to 42-54 inch-pounds
STEERING GEAR
RUBBER BUSHING
BUSHING RETAINERS
LOCK WASH..X
MOUNTING SCREW-HS
BUSHING RETAINER
STEERING ARM
LOWER
M O U N T I N G PLATE
LOCK WASHER
M O U N T I N G SCREW
RUBBER BUSHING
NUT
LOCK NUT
2317
SPINDLE
ARM (L.H.)
/9
SPINDLE
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY (L.H.)
SPINDLE
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY (R.H.)
CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY
SPINDLE
ARM (R.H.)
2259
128
torque. Install the lock nut, then tighten the lock nut
to 30-40 inch-pounds torque.
To install a rear shock absorber, proceed as follows:
Place one rubber bushing on each rear shock absorber
5. STEERING GEAR
The steering gear assembly is of the worm and roller
type. Complete steering gear adjustment procedures are
given in "a. Adjustments." Repair information, given in
"b. Steering Gear Repair" includes complete removal,
disassembly, assembly and installation procedures for
the steering gear.
The steering gear assembly is mounted on the lefthand frame side rail (fig. 26). The steering column is
attached to the lower side of the instrument panel with
a "U" bolt.
The steering gear worm is integral with the steering
shaft and is supported at each end by opposed tapered
roller bearings (fig. 27). The triple-tooth roller is attached
to the sector shaft by means of a steel shaft. Two sets of
needle bearings are installed between the shaft and the
roller.
The sector shaft is mounted in the sector shaft housing cover. Two sets of needle bearings are pressed into
this cover. The cover is attached to the steering gear
housing with four cap screws.
The steering wheel and steering arm are splined to the
steering shaft and sector shaft respectively. Both the
steering arm and the steering wheel have master splines
to insure correct installation. The steering gear is designed so that when the steering wheel spoke is horizontal and at the mid-point of the steering wheel travel,
STEERING SHAFT
HOUSING CAP
SECTOR SHAFT END-PLAY
ADJUSTING SCREW
WORM
a. Adjustments.
Proper steering gear adjustment is essential in obtaining easy steering and handling of the car. Four adjustments are required on the worm and roller type steering
gear. They are (1) Sector Shaft End Play, (2) Worm Bearing Pre-Load, (3) Worm and Roller Pre-Load (mesh),
and (4) Steering Wheel Spoke Position. The first three
adjustments are accomplished within the gear; the fourth
adjustment is made independently of the gear. Before
proceeding with the steering gear adjustments, eliminate
any mis-alignment of the steering column as follows:
Loosen the three cap screws that fasten the steering
gear housing to frame side member, to relieve any possible vertical strain, Loosen the steering-column-jacket
clamp at the bottom of the instrument panel to relieve
any possible horizontal strain. Tighten the steering gear
mounting bolts, then tighten the clamp nuts at the instrument panel to 5-7 foot pounds torque. This relieves
any misalignment in the mounting of the steering gear
assembly to the frame and the body.
These adjustments must be made carefully and in the
order given to insure satisfactory results.
(1) SECTOR SHAFT END PLAY. The sector shaft
end play is controlled by a set screw installed in the
steering gear housing. Sector shaft end play may be adjusted as follows:
Disconnect the steering arm from the steering arm to
idler arm rod. Loosen the sector shaft end play adjust-
LOCK NUT
STEERING
HOUSING
ROTATE HOUSING TO
ADJUST WQRM
AND ROLLER MESH
PRE-LOAD BY MEANS
OF ECCENTRIC BORE
OR SHAFT
SECTOR SHAFT
ADJUSTING SCREW
THRUST WASHERS
ADJUSTING SCREW
LOCK NUT
BEARINGS
FILLER PLUG
STEERING ARM
SHIMS-ADD OR REMOVE
AS REQUIRED
OIL SEAL
2262
2801
129
If the reading is too low, the bearing pre-load is insufficient and a shim or shims must be removed.
If it is necessary to add or remove shims, remove the
screws that secure the steering gear housing upper cap
to the housing. Work the cap and column jacket upward
to allow clearance for removing or adding shims. (For
additional working clearance, it may be necessary to
remove the steering wheel.)
To add a shim, split the shim at one point then install
the shim with the split in the upward position. Make
sure the split ends of the shim do not overlap as this
could lead to a false pre-load reading.
To remove a shim, separate the first shim from the
shim pack with a knife blade. Pass the knife blade all
around the shim being careful not to damage the remaining shims.
Remove or add one shim at a time; check the worm
bearing pre-load after each variation in the shim pack.
NOTE: The steering column and the housing upper
cap must be assembled on the steering gear housing
each time the pre-load is checked.
(3) STEERING
GEAR WORM AND ROLLER
MESH (PRE-LOAD). The steering sector shaft housing is constructed with an eccentric boss which seats in
the steering gear housing (fig. 27). This feature provides
a means of varying the worm and roller mesh adjustment
by rotating the sector shaft housing. The worm and roller
mesh may be adjusted as follows:
Use a spring scale (fig. 29) and turn the wheel past the
high spot position. The scale reading should be at least
Y2 pound above that of the worm bearing pre-load previously determined, but the total reading must not
exceed 2 pounds. If the reading (roller mesh pre-load)
does not exceed the worm bearing pre-load by at least
SLOTTED HOLES
(SCREWS REMOVED!
ROTATE H O U S I N G T O ADJUST
W O R M A N D ROLLER MESH
Spring Scale
2261
2275
130
V"
2384
131
the steering gear shaft and worm assembly in the steering gear housing and install the cap screws.
Place the two thrust washers on the sector shaft, then
slide the steering sector shaft and worm assembly into
the steering sector shaft housing cover. Position the
steering sector shaft housing cover gasket on the steering gear housing, then install the steering sector shaft
housing cover on the steering gear housing with the previously scribed marks on the housings in alignment.
(6) STEERING GEAR INSTALLATION. Working
from underneath the car, position the steering gear assembly on the frame. Install but do not tighten the mounting bolts and nuts. Install the steering column tube
assembly on the steering shaft. Secure the steering column tube bracket to the instrument panel with the two
nuts and lock washers. Tighten the steering column
clamp, and then tighten the steering gear housing to
frame bolts to 30-35 foot-pounds torque. Install the pin
and the lower gearshift levers. Place the gearshift tube
bracket in position and secure the tube in place with a
cap screw. Connect the gearshift levers to the rod adjustment nut, install the steering wheel. Position the steering
gear arm on the steering gear sector shaft.
NOTE: The arm should he installed pointing straight
back when the wheel spokes are in the horizontal
position and the worm is at mid-point of travel.
HORN BUTTON
PLATE3645
SPRING-3626
STEERING WHEEL
36(
" U 36
ADJUSTING
SCREW-3577
CAP
HORN BUTTON
3627
HORN PAD
3672
NUT
350983-S
3589
& BEARING
ASSY.-3509
BRACKET3678
yP-3507
GASKETS-3593
BEARING C U P - 3 5 5 3
BEARING3571
BEARING CUP3552
HOUSING3548
HOUSING END PLATE & TUBE ASSY.3597
SECTOR SHAFT & WORM ASSY.-3575
2268
WASHER3579
BEARING3576
GASKET3581
COVER-3583
356393-S
4847-S
20368-S
RING3576
IL SEAL-3591
STEERING ARM3590
34814-S
351153-S
2265
132
6. STEERING LINKAGE
The steering linkage consists of all the parts necessary
to transmit the steering effort from the steering gear
sector shaft to the front wheels. The steering linkage
includes the steering gear arm (Pitman), the steering
arm to idler arm rod, the right and left-hand spindle
connecting rods (tie rods), the spindle arms, and the
steering idler arm and bracket (fig. 35).
The spindle connecting rod ends and the steering arm
to idler arm rod end have spring loaded ball studs to
compensate for wear. When the limit of this automatic
wear adjustment has been reached, the rod ends must be
replaced. The replacement procedure is given in a.
The steering arm to idler arm rod end is forged integral
with the rod. If replacement of the rod end is necessary,
the entire rod assembly must be replaced. Since the inner
spindle connecting rod ends are also forged integral with
the right and left-hand spindle connecting rods, the rods
must be replaced when the rod ends become worn. The
rod replacement procedures are given in b.
Service information on idler arm is given in c.
rod end studs, then drive the studs out of the arms using
a soft metal hammer. Loosen the clamp bolts, then remove the rod ends from the spindle connecting rod tube.
Thread each new end an equal distance into (or on to)
the spindle connecting rod tube. Position the end studs
in the spindle arm holes, then install the attaching nuts.
Tighten the nuts securely, then install new cotter pins.
Adjust the toe.
b. Rod Replacement.
The spindle connecting rod replacement procedure is
given in (1). The replacement procedure for the steering
arm to idler arm rod is given in (2).
(1) SPINDLE CONNECTING ROD REPLACEMENT. Remove the cotter pin and nut which attach
the spindle connecting rod end to the steering arm to
idler arm rod (fig. 35). Support the idler arm rod near
the ball stud, then tap the stud out of the arm. Loosen
the spindle connecting rod sleeve clamp bolts, then remove the rod from the sleeve.
Thread the new spindle connecting rod into the sleeve.
Connect the rod end ball stud to the steering arm to
idler arm rod. Adjust the toe.
(2) STEERING ARM TO IDLER ARM ROD REPLACEMENT. Remove the cotter pin and nut which
attach the idler arm rod end to the steering arm (fig. 35).
356682-S
34847-S
31 30
351059-S
IDLER ARM
SEAL3359
SPINDLE ARM
72026-S
20389-S
STEERING GEAR ARM3590
351059-S
355758-S
34814-S
IDLER ARM3355
IDLER ARM
72026-S
STEERING ARM TO
\
IDLER ARM ROD3304
351153-S
72026-S
351059-$
SPINDLE ARM3131
'STEERING IDLER
ARM BUSHING
3356
SEAL3332
34443-S
353023-S
CLAMP3287
CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVE3310
SPINDLE
CONNECTING
ROD3280
353043-S
SPINDLE CONNECTING
ROD3281
CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVE3310
CONNECTING ROD
END3290
2085
133
grease or dirt. With the axle jacked up, install the wheels
and stud nuts. Tighten the nuts sufficiently to hold the
wheel firmly in position. Always tighten opposite nuts to
assure drawing the wheel evenly against the hub.
Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the nuts
to 65-75 foot-pounds torque.
a. Wheel Replacement.
b. Tire Maintenance.
Wheel stud nuts must be inspected and tightened regularly to avoid accidental loosening of the wheels. Any
failure to keep the wheel stud nuts tight might result in
elongation of the stud holes in the wheels or other damage.
On new vehicles or after each wheel removal, check
and tighten the wheel stud nuts after the first 100 miles
of service. After each wheel removal, remove dirt, grease,
or other foreign material from mating surfaces of the
wheel and hub. Be sure the wheel stud nuts are free from
134
c. Tire Replacement,
Certain general precautions should be observed when
removing or installing tires. These are as follows:
(1) Always be sure the tire is completely deflated before
attempting to remove the tire from the rim.
(2) Place the inner tube in the tire with the valve stem
at the balance mark on the tire.
(3) Be careful not to damage the tire bead when using
tire irons to pry the tire bead over the edge of the
rim during^tire installation or removal.
(4) After the tire and tube have been mounted on the
rim, inflate the tube to the recommended air pressure,
then deflate the tube and again inflate to the recommended air pressure. This procedure will eliminate the
possibility of the tube being folded in the tire casing.
(5) When mounting a tire, coat the tire beads with vegetable soap. This makes it easier to force the beads
over the edge of the wheel, both when the tire is
mounted and when it is demounted again. It also
protects the beads from damage.
The drop center rim, shown sectionally in fig. 38, is
2112
BRACKET-STEERING
IDLER ARM MOUNTING-
RIM
STEERING IDLER ARM
BUSHING O M - 3 3 5 6
HUB CAP
1130
TIGHTEN
BUSHING IN
BRACKET
85-100
FT. LBS.
ROD-STEERING
ARM TO
IDLER ARM
^TIGHTEN BUSHINGS IN
ROD 85-100 FT. LBS.
2270
2003
135
the drop center part of the rim at the valve and force the
remaining portion of the bead over the rim. A tire iron
may be needed to pry the last portion of the bead over
the rim. Insert a tire iron between the top bead and the
wheel rim at a point opposite the valve, then the bead
over the rim. Holding this iron in position, continue prying with the other iron, working around the rim until the
bead is in place. Inflate the tube slowly to about 15
pounds pressure. Center the tire on the rim by bouncing
the tire on the floor. Inflate the inner tube to the recommended pressure.
GASKET-2245
HUB AND DRUM ASSEMBLY-1105
INNER BEARING CUP-1202
OUTER BEARING CUP
12
ADJUSTING
NUT-351129-S
OUTER
,
BEARING
CAP-1139 /
1216
GREASE BAFFLE
2240
GASKET-2256
OIL SEAL-1177
BEARING RETAINER-1180
WASHER
1195
NUT-1012
COTTER PIN-72054-S
^ | = ^
JUT
WHEEL ASSEMBLY-1015
BOLT-1107
2006
BOLT
2011
136
BEARING AS
GREASE BAFFLE-2240
RETAINER
RING
11
BOLT-2248
OIL SEAL-1177
BEARING RETAINER-1180
NUT-34374-S
BOLT-1107
IIML,
2013
*.*
^ _
%" BEARING-1225
2012
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part TWO
CHASSIS
Chapter
IV
Brakes
Section
1
2
3
4
5
Page
Adjustments
Hydraulic System. . .
Brake Assemblies
Brake Drums
Parking Brake
....:
i
,.-.. . 137
139
142
143
143
1. ADJUSTMENTS
Brake adjustments are divided into three classifications, minor adjustment, major adjustment, and brake
pedal adjustment. The minor brake adjustment merely
reestablishes the brake lining to drum clearance and
compensates for normal brake lining wear. The minor
brake adjustment procedure is given in "a. Minor
Adjustment." A major brake adjustment is recommended
when new shoes are installed, when brakes are relined,
or, when the minor adjustment does not give satisfactory
brake operation. This adjustment procedure is outlined
in "b. Major Adjustment." A brake pedal adjustment is
necessary if the pedal free travel is less than x/i inch or
more than }/2 inch. To correct pedal free travel, follow
| h e procedure given in "c. Brake Pedal Adjustment."
a. Minor Adjustment.
The brakes should be adjusted when the linings have
been worn so that the pedal reserve is less than one-half
the total travel to the floor board.
The brake drums should be at normal room temperature when making adjustments. If the brakes are adjusted
when the drums are hot and expanded, the shoes may
drag when the drums cool and contract. Before making
a minor brake adjustment remove one front wheel and
check for the following conditions:
(1) Brake drum scored, out-of-round, or bell-mouthed.
(2) Brake lining coated with brake fluid or grease.
(3) Brake lining worn to less than \fa inch from the top
of the rivet heads.
(4) Brake lining not making full contact with the drum.
If any of these conditions exist a minor brake adjustment will not give satisfactory braking performance, and
the need for a major brake adjustment is indicated.
137
Chapter IVBrakes
138
MASTER CYLINDER-214
BRAKE PIPE-2269
BRAKE PEDAL
ASSEMBLY-2455
2019
b. Major Adjustment.
Before making a major brake adjustment, the following operations must be performed:
(1) Remove all four brake drums and clean the brake
assemblies.
(2) Perform all of the inspections included under "a.
Minor Adjustment."
(3) Inspect all brake pipes and hoses for leakage, kinks,
or deterioration.
(4) Lubricate the surfaces of the backing plate contacted
by the shoes and the adjusting screw with Lubriplate.
A major brake adjustment includes the adjustment of
the brake shoes and the anchor pins, and is performed
as follows:
If the lining is still serviceable, reinstall the brake
drums. Adjust the brake pedal free play. Add sufficient
brake fluid to the master cylinder to bring the level
within J4 m c n of the top of the filler neck. Insert a 0.010ihch feeler gauge through the adjusting slot in the drum
while the slot is opposite the lower end of the secondary
or rear shoe. Move the feeler gauge upward along the
secondary shoe, until the shoe assembly is wedged
forward as far as possible. Expand the shoes by turning
WHEEL CYLINDER-2162
RETRACTING SPRING
2108
2035
PRIMARY SHOE
SECONDARY
SHOE-2219
2218
PARKING BRAKE
LEVER-2104
SPRING-2049
ADJUSTING SCREW-2041
PARKING BRAKE CABLE-2275
2022
139
Section 1Adjustments
axle or spindle. Be sure to tighten the anchor pin nut
securely with a 16-inch wrench. Recheck the shoe clearance after tightening the nut.
After the brake shoes and anchor pins have been adjusted, adjust the parking brake cable slack at the
equalizer lever.
Check the brake pedal free play and adjust it if
necessary.
Bleed the hydraulic system if existing conditions warrant the performance of this operation.
or
more than }/2 inch (fig. 3) the need for brake pedal adjustment is indicated. The pedal free play may be checked
by hand pressure on the brake pedal and is considered to
be the movement of the pedal before the push rod touches
the master cylinder piston.
Brake pedal free play adjustment is accomplished by
rotating the eccentric bolt which attaches the brake
pedal assembly to the master cylinder push rod assembly
(fig. 4). Rotate the eccentric bolt until the pedal free
play is between J4 and % inch. Be sure the nut is
securely tightened.
2. HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake system uses hydraulic fluid pressure to actuate the brake shoe assemblies. The hydraulic
system consists of the master cylinder, the wheel cylinders, and the connecting brake pipes and hoses.
Complete service information on the hydraulic system
is given in this section under the following headings:
"a. Serviceability Tests"which help you to determine
the condition of the overall system, "b. Bleeding Brake
System"which contains the procedure for bleeding the
brake system.- "c. Wheel Cylinder" which covers
disassembly, assembly and repair of wheel cylinders.
"d. Master Cylinder" covering description and repair
of the master cylinder assembly, "e. Hydraulic Pipe
Replacement"including information on when to replace pipes, as well as procedures for replacement.
a. Serviceability Tests.
Depress the brake pedal and observe the brake pedal
travel. If the travel is greater than one-half the distance
between the pedal pad and the toe board, a minor brake
adjustment or a major brake adjustment is necessary.
If the travel is less than }/i inch or more than Y% inch,
adjust the brake pedal free play. Hold the brake pedal
in the fully depressed position. If the pedal moves slowly
toward the toe board, check for faulty master cylinder
piston cups and for leaks in the hydraulic system. If the
brake pedal has a spongy feel, bleed the system.
PISTON PUSH R O D - 2 1 4 3
CLUTCH RELEASE
EQUALIZER BAR-7528
ECCENTRIC BOLT2462
CUP-2180
BOLTS
3505076-S7 or S8
BOOT STRAP
2186
msm
20!
2055
Chapter IVBrakes
140
c. Wheel Cylinders.
The wheel cylinders are mounted on the brake carrier
plates. Each wheel cylinder contains two pistons, two
rubber brake cylinder cups, and a piston return spring
which is installed between the cups. Each end of each
wheel cylinder is sealed by a rubber brake cylinder boot.
Hydraulic fluid pressure, acting against the inner end of
each wheel cylinder piston, forces the pistons outward
to actuate the brake shoes.
The front wheel cylinders have a larger diameter
{\Y% inches) than the rear wheel cylinders (7A inch) to
provide a higher braking ratio on the front wheels than
on the rear. Therefore, the front and rear wheel cylinders
are not interchangeable.
Each wheel cylinder is equipped with a bleeder screw
to facilitate the brake bleeding operation. The construction of the bleeder screw is shown infig.5.
(1) DISASSEMBLY. Before a wheel cylinder can be
removed for disassembly, it is necessary to disconnect
the hydraulic line at the wheel cylinder.
After the wheel and brake drum have been removed,
the wheel cylinder may be removed from the brake
carrier plate. Disassemble the wheel cylinder as follows:
Remove the rubber brake cylinder boots from the
wheel cylinder housing, then remove the pistons, cups
and piston return spring from the housing. A disassembled view of the wheel cylinder is shown infig.6.
CUP2202
2058
PISTON2198
PBIJ-JUB
SPRING-2205
d. Master Cylinder.
The master cylinder is mounted on the frame side rail
behind the brake pedal. The function of the master
cylinder is to maintain a constant volume of brake fluid
in the system at all times, and to convert physical
pressure on the brake pedal to hydraulic pressure on the
wheel-cylinder pistons.
The master cylinder contains the brake fluid reservoir
and the master cylinder operating mechanism in an
integral housing. The detailed construction features
of the master cylinder are shown infig.8.
The piston is equipped with a rubber cup at the push
rod end. The brake master cylinder primary cup is held
against the piston by the piston return spring and
retainer. A check valve is used at the output end of the
2201
BLEEDER SCREW2208
BOOT2206
2206
2401
Fig. 7Wheel Cylinder Repair Kit (Rear Shown)
141
PEDAL BUSHING2470
FILLER C A P - 2 1 6 2
GASKET2167
STOP PLATE
ECCENTRIC BOLT-2462
2188
SNAP RING
2174
STOP LIGHT
SWITCH15480
PISTON RETURN
SPRING2145
PUSH ROD-2143
BOOT2180
ADAPTER-2161
OUTLET FITTING2076
2070
master cylinder to control the return flow of the hydraulic fluid from the wheel cylinders.
The master cylinder push rod seats in a depression in
the piston, thus transferring movement of the brake
pedal to the piston. The piston end of the master cylinder
is sealed with a flexible rubber boot.
(1) REMOVAL. Disconnect the brake lines from the
master cylinder and depress the brake pedal a few times
to force all the fluid from the master cylinder. Remove
the stop light switch. Remove the brake pedal pad.
Disconnect the clutch pedal from the clutch shaft.
Remove the clutch linkage holding screw at the transmission. Disconnect the brake pedal return spring.
Remove the master cylinder and brake pedal from the
car. Remove the brake pedal from the master cylinder.
(2) DISASSEMBLY. Clean all dirt from the outside
2180
2169
MASTER CYUNDCR i
2167
2173
jg^^S^
2178
SECTIONAL VIEW OF
DIE SHOWING
TUBING LOCATED
AGAINST STOP PIN.
FIRST OPERATION
TOOL SHOWN
FORMING OUTSIDE
FLARE.
SECOND OPERATION
TOOL SHOWN
FORMING INSIDE
FLARE AND SEAT.
COMPLETED
DOUBLE-UP FLARE
SHOWN IN INSERT.
2074
142
Chapter IV-Brakes
and stop plate in the cylinder bore (fig. 8). Secure the
parts in the bore with the snap ring. Position the piston
push rod in the cylinder, after installing the rubber boot.
(4) INSTALLATION. Install the brake^ pedal on the
master cylinder, then slide the assembly over the clutch
pedal shaft assembly. Position the master cylinder on
the frame side rail, then install the cylinder to frame
bolts. Connect the clutch linkage, then secure the linkage to the transmission. Install the clutch pedal. Connect
the brake pedal return spring, then install the stop light
switch. Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder,
fill the cylinder with fluid, then bleed all four brakes.
3. BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
Service information on the single-anchor self-energizing
brake assembly (fig. 12) is presented here. The material
is arranged under the following headings:
"a. Removal and Disassembly," "b. Cleaning and
Inspection," and "c. Assembly and Installation."
"d. Brake Shoe Relining," describes the procedure for
relining brake shoes.
The brake assembly contains two shoes mounted on
the brake carrier plate assembly. The forward shoe is the
primary shoe and the rear shoe is the secondary shoe.
The upper ends of the shoes are held against the anchor
by two return springs. Each shoe is held against the
brake carrier plate by a hold-down spring pin, a spring
and two cups. A brake adjusting screw assembly and a
spring are used to hold the shoes in the correct position
in relation to each other.
CAP J!C A ? H E V
ANCHOR PIN-2027
WHEEL
ARKING BRAKE
LEVER2104
TOOL
2035-N
RETAINER
2106
BOLT-356694-S
Fig. IIRemoving Brake Shoe Retracting
2087
Spring
SECONDARY
SHOE2219
RETAINER2240
NUT2047
GASKET2245
JUSTING SCREW
SOCKET-2048 2041
BRAKE CARRIER
PLATE-2260
2086
Fig. 12Single Anchor Self-Energizing Brake Assembly
143
EQUALIZER LEVER-2121
EQUALIZER ROD2628
BRACKET
2637
ADJUSTING NUT
EQUALIZER LEVER
NUT2091
PARKING BRAKE
CABLE-2853
BRAKE CABLE
BRACKET
2530R.H.
CABLE
ASSEMBLY2275
BRAKE CABLE BRACKET-2153
2098
NOTE: Do not permit oil or grease to come in contact with the lining.
4. BRAKE DRUMS
Front brake drums are riveted to the front hubs and
are serviced as an assembly. The rear drums are of the
demountable type. The rear brake drums are secured
with spring nuts which are installed on the hub bolts.
Brake drums are slotted so that the brake lining to drum
clearance can be checked.
5. PARKING BRAKES
The parking brake is a rear wheel, cable controlled,
internal expanding type brake (same shoes are used for
)R PIN
RETRACTING SPRING
TOOt2035-N
RETRACTING SPRING
2088
TINNERMAN NUT
2099
144
Chapter IVBrakes
a. Adjustment.
The service brakes should be adjusted before adjust-
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part THREE
Electrical Systems
Section
1
2
3
4
5
Page
145
. 159
166
174
175
a. Generator.
Ford generators are shunt (parallel) wound, two brush,
high output generators. The generating system is a positive ( + ) ground system. Generator output is controlled
by means of a regulator connected between the armature
and field and the field is grounded internally (fig. 1).
The generator mounted on both the 6-cylinder engine
and on the 8-cylinder engine is shown in fig. 3.
(1) GENERATOR TESTS. Four generator test procedures are outlined here: "(a) Generator Output Test"
G
"="
Fig.
145
146
BATTERY
GENERATOR REGULATOR
3002
0-5 1
0-50
i ammeter
0-100 J
0-9 voltmeter
"Growler" tester
Storage Battery and Assorted connecting wires and
jumper wires equipped with suitable connectors.
The voltmeter and ammeter are included as part of
the Diagnosis Test Set. The meter range of voltage or
current can be changed by means of selector switches.
If the Ford Generator and Regulator Test Bench is
available, the generator tests can be made with this
equipment. The generator is mounted on a bench and
3003
CIRCUITS
3004
SET TO POS.
GROUND POLARITY
147
-sgaori
CONNECT NEG.
AMP. LEAD
TO GEN.
.TERM.
CONNECT POS.
AMP. LEAD TO
BAT. NEG.
TERMINAL
GENERATOR
" BATTERY
3016
TO BAT.
3005
An
REGULATOR
TO OTHER
CIRCUITS
LOAD RHEOSTAT
3 SCALE METER
JUMPER LEAD
CONSTANT SPEED
MOTOR
^ - L
GENERATOR
V Jj
MOUNT
""*"
GENERATOR
BELT
ADJUSTMENT
3015
3006
148
make the connections as shown in fig. 10. If the voltmeter indicates any voltage the armature windings are
grounded to the frame.
(d) ARMATURE SHORT CIRCUIT TEST. TO test the
armature for a short circuit in the windings, a "growler"
must be used as shown in fig. 11. Rotate the armature
slowly. When the shofted winding is under the steel
strip, it will cause the strip to vibrate.
(2) GENERATOR REPAIR. Generator Repair procedures outlined in this paragraph and illustrated in figs.
12 through 18, are removal and installation, disassembly, commutator turning and undercutting, armature
replacement, and brush replacement.
In many cases it will not be necessary to completely
disassemble the generator to accomplish repair or replacement of certain parts, "(c) Armature Replacement,"
"(d) Commutator Turning and Undercutting" and "(e)
Brush Replacement" are procedures which eliminate the
steps in disassembly that do not apply to these particular
operations.
(a) REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION. Disconnect the
armature, field, and ground wires at the generator terminals. Remove the generator belt and the support band
bolt and lockwasher. Remove the generator.
JUMPER WIRE
CONNECT TO
ARMATURE CORE
3008
JUMPER LEAD
\
DO NOT LET
SCREW OR LEAD
TOUCH FRAME
REMOVE GROUND
TERMINAL SCREW
'GROWLER"
VOLTMETER
POSITIVE LEADVOLTMETER NEGATIVE LEAD
3007
' "'
^jl
3009
Fig. 11Growler Test for Shorted Armature
149
FRONT END
PLATE10139
,34079-S
34803-S"FIELD" TERMINAL "GRD" TERMINAL NUT
AND WASHERS
INSULATOR,
WASHERS AND NUT
Fig. 12-Generator
NOTE: Be sure to remove any burrs from the feeyway before removing the front end plate.
Pry out the bearing stop ring (snap ring) and push
the bearing out of the front end plate.
Remove the "ARM" terminal screw and negative
brush from the brush end plate. Remove the ground
brush screw and the ground brush.
Remove the "FIELD" and "GRD" terminal screws
from the generator frame and unscrew the field pole shoe
screws as shown in fig. 13. The arbor press prevents the
tool from slipping out of the screw socket. Slide the
pole shoes and field windings out of the frame and separate the windings and shoes.
(2) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Wash all parts
except the armature, field coils, and front bearing in
solvent and dry the parts thoroughly. Wipe off the
armature and field windings, the commutator, and the
armature shaft.
Hold Tool in Slot
with Arbor Press
10120_J
I P L U G - 1 0 1 4 6 ^ / SPRING
BRUSH 10057
MOUNTING
BRACKET-10151
NUT-351124-S
CUP-10141
34940-S
THROUGH
NOT PART
BOLT
| OF 10050
69
10069
"10202
fT<
"ARM"-^
-SVW4
3 34081
4
TERMINAL 134805-S'
INSULATOR, 134081-SWASHER AND NUT
3010
Disassembled
GENERATOR
FRAME
ROTATE ARMATURE SHAFTS
ON BEARING SURFAC
" V " Block
BE SURE TO SEAT DRIVE
HEAD IN SCREW RECESS
3017
3031
150
COMMUTATOR
GOOD UNDERCUTTING
POOR UNDERCUTTING
TIGHTEN SCREWS
3013
through bolts and the brush end plate. Slide the armature
and front end plate assembly out of the frame. Clamp
the armature in a vise equipped with soft jaws and
remove the retaining nut, lockwasher, pulley, and woodruff key. Remove any burrs or scratches from the keyway or shaft and slide the drive end plate off the shaft.
Install the front end plate on the new armature. Install
the woodruff key, pulley, lockwasher, and retaining nut.
Slide the armature and front end plate assembly into the
frame, aligning the dowel with the frame slot. Retract
the brushes until the brush springs ride against the side
3011
,#,
*&&+*
J ^
^HOLD END PLATE
B k ^ <
FROM TURNING
LINE UP TOOL
EXACTLY WITH SLOT
PULL IN
DIRECTION
OF ARMATUR
ROTATION
3012
151
COMMUTATOR T U R N I N G AND
UNDERCUTTING.
Check commutator runout as shown in fig. 14. If the surface of the commutator is rough or more than 0.001 inch
out of round, turn it down in a lathe or with a turning
and undercutting tool, see fig. 15. Remove no more
copper than necessary to clean up the commutator.
After the commutator is turned down, undercut the
mica between the bars \ii i n c r i below the copper using
the undercutting tool as shown in fig. 16. Figure 17
illustrates samples of proper and improper undercutting.
Polish the commutator with 00 to 000 sandpaper to
remove all burrs.
NOTE: Brush out all particles of copper from the
mica insulation between the commutator
segments.
(e) BRUSH REPLACEMENT. Replace generator brushes
when they are worn to Y^ inch. Always change both
brushes when replacement is required.
Remove the two through bolts from the generator
frame. Remove the brush end plate and the armature
and front end plate assembly from the generator frame.
Disconnect the brush terminals and remove brushes.
Clean the carbon and dirt from the brush end plate.
Repair or replace the insulation between the brush
holders and end plate and the "ARM" terminal and end
plate if it is worn or cracked. Make sure the new brushes
VOLTAGE LIMITER
CURRENT LIMITER
CURRENT LIMITER
CUTOUT RELAY
/
CUTOUT RELAY
3018
152
CONTACTS MOUNTED
ON SPRING
ARMATURE SECTION
RIVETED CONSTRUCTION
RIVETED ASSEMBLY
NEW CUTOUT UNIT
CHANGED
CUTOUT UNIT
CUTOUT CONNECTION
AT LOWER END OF COIL
DRAWN
ONE-PIECE BASE
RIGID
ARMATURE SECTION
3019
"^~
READ O N
50-AMP. SCALE
SET TO NO. 9
NEG. LEAD
VOLTMETER
SET TO POS.
GROUND
POLARITY
TURN ALL THE WAY
TO LEFT TO START
FIELD RHEOSTAT A
% -n- RESISTOR
The voltage limiter holds generator voltage to a predetermined setting as long as the voltage of the generator
is high enough to operate the voltage limiter.
The current limiter protects the generator windings
by limiting to a maximum the amount of current supplied by the generator.
The procedures presented here will appear under the
following headings:
"a. Regulator and Circuit Tests," outlining methods
of testing certain voltage, voltage limit, current limit,
and circuit resistance.
"b. Regulator Electrical Adjustment," describing
operations for adjusting the regulator units.
(1) REGULATOR AND CIRCUIT TEST. Regulator tests are outlined below in "(a) Cut-out, Voltage
AMMETER
tTOR
CONNECT POS.
BATTERY-SI
LEAD TO POS.
BATTERY TERMINAL
CONNECT NEG. AMPERAGE
LEAD TO BAT. TERMINAL
O N REGULATOR
GENERATOR
CARBON PILE
RHEOSTAT
- BATTERY
3020
TO BATTERY-
153
o-ioo/
ammeter
0-0.9 voltmeter
0-9
voltmeter
50
ohm field rheostat (2 amp. rating)
%
ohm resistor (15 amp. rating)
Carbon pile rheostat (heavy duty)
Assorted connecting wires equipped with suitable
connectors.
Regulator tests can be made on the vehicle as outlined below or on a Ford Generator and Regulator Test
Bench, if it is available. The advantage of using the test
bench is the reduction of time required to heat the regulator to normal operating temperature. The test bench
is equipped with a radiant heating unit which can bring
the regulator up to normal temperature in a few minutes. When the test bench is used to make the regulator
test be sure the regulator is mounted in the same position as it is in the vehicle and that the regulator is
checked against the same type generator used on the
vehicle.
(a) CUT-OUT, VOLTAGE LIMIT, AND CURRENT LIMIT
TESTS. (ON VEHICLE). Be sure the regulator is at
"normal" operating temperature (equivalent to the temperature after 30 minutes of operation on the vehicle).
Connect the test equipment as shown in figs. 21 and 22.
Start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 r.p.m.
Decrease the resistance in the field circuit and the voltage output of the generator indicated by the voltmeter
will increase until the cut-out closes. The cut-out closing
will be indicated by a rise of the ammeter needle and a
"dip" of the voltmeter needle. The maximum voltage at
the time the voltmeter needle dips or drops back will be
the closing voltage of the cut-out relay. This operation
should be repeated to accurately determine the closing
voltage of the cut-out.
POS.
LEAD
DEPRESS BUTTON
WHILE READING
VOLTMETER
VOLTMETER POS. LEAD
REGULATOR
TO BATTERY
- BATTERY
REGULATOR
OTHER
CIRCUITS
3022
ho
3O23
154
3025
TO
DECREASE
VOLTAGE
Adjusting Tool
CUTOUT ARMATURE
Adjusting Too/
3024
Ffg.-26Adjusting Cut-in Voltage (7950 Models 8M
and 8A)
3026
Fig. 28Adjusting Voltage Limit
c. Battery.
The primary function of the storage battery in the
generating system is, as its name implies, to store energy
for starting the engine and to operate electrical units
when the generator is not delivering sufficient output.
A cutaway view of the battery (fig. 30) illustrates the
internal construction.
(1) BATTERY EQUIPMENT. Ford approved battery equipment includes (a) Fast Charger, (b) battery
Charge Tester (open circuit voltage tester), and (c)
Diagnosis Test Set. A hydrometer is also very useful in
battery testing.
(a) FAST CHARGER. The Fast Charger places a full
charge in a battery in a short period of time and automatically shuts off the charge by means of a thermostat
control when the battery temperature reaches 125 F.
155
VENT PLUG
TERMINAL POSTS
COVERS
ADJUSTING ARM
T O INCREASE
CURRENT
CONTAINER
Adjusting Tool
NEGATIVE PLATE
SEPARATORS
ELEMENT RESTS
3027
POSITIVE PLATE
SEDIMENT SPACE
3033
156
3034
157
while, but eventually will fail. The yellow range indicates that a battery has lost approximately 40 % of its
capacity. The loss is caused by wear, internal damage,
or shedding of the active plate material from the plates.
(1) FORD DIAGNOSIS TEST SET. Connect the battery
test leads to the battery terminals and set selector
switches as shown infig.32. Turn the Resistance Load
Knob slowly clockwise until the ammeter needle points
to the capacity (ampere hours) of the battery under test.
The voltmeter will indicate the condition (remaining
capacity) of the battery.
(2) FORD FAST CHARGER. Connect the battery leads
to the battery terminals. Set the meter selector switch
to position 5 and the battery capacity scale to the ampere
hour rating of the battery (fig. 34). Depress the test
button halfway, for 15 seconds, then depress it fully and
read the battery condition (remaining capacity) on
scale 5.
(3) CARE OF BATTERIES IN STOCK. The oldest
batteries should be sold first. A slow discharge occurs
during storage and the number of "boost" charges
required by a battery before it is finally sold will be
reduced by rotating stocks properly.
NOTE: The date of manufacture of the battery is
stamped on one of the center cell connector buttons.
The letter represents the month (AJanuary, B
February, CMarch, etc.) and the numeral represents the year (81948, 91949, 01950, etc.).
Thus, the code L-9 would signify a battery was
manufactured in December, 1949. Beginning the
latter part of 1950 a three character code was insti|1*TTRY SIZE O SELECTOR |
BATTERY
TEST BUTTON
SET ON AMP. HOURS SCALE
Ox
GROUND POLARITY
3035
3036
158
11
v*77
CHARGING VOLTS
READ
CHARGING
CURRENT
CHARGING AMPS.
READ CHARGING VOLTS
W CHARGE
FAST CHARGE
3038
BATTERY
TEST BUTTON
I BATTERY S I Z E O SELECTOR |
AFTER FAST
CHARGE TEST
TaATTERY SIZE O SELECTOR |
VOLTS
CHARGING
CURRENT SCALE
CHARGING
VOLT SCALE
RECOMMENDED THAT
AT LEAST 4 BATTERIES
BE CHARGED
BATTERIES
CONNECTED
IN PARALLEL
DO NOT CONNECT
BATTERIES IN SERIES
3037
3039
159
CIRCUIT BREAKER
STARTER BUTTON
STARTING
MOTORS"
3O4O
STARTER IGNITION
SWITCH
TO CHARGE
INDICATOR
3115
2. STARTING SYSTEM
The function of the starting system in the vehicle is
to crank the engine at a high enough speed to permit it
to start. The system includes the starter motor and
drive, the battery, a remote control push button type
starter switch, and heavy circuit wiring.
A schematic diagram of the starter circuit, shown in
fig. 37 or 38, illustrates the internal connections of the
starting system units. Figure 39 is a pictorial view of the
starting system of the 1949 and 1950 passenger car showing the wiring and location of the various units. The 1951
starting system is the same as the others with the exception that the starter control switch is part of the ignition
switch, and the starter relay is grounded at the relay.
1951 cars equipped with automatic transmission have
a lock-out switch in the starter control circuit (fig. 40)
BATTERY-TO-RELAY CABLE
kTTERY
RELAY-TO-MOTOR
CABLE
^STARTER MOTOR
STARTER RELAY
STARTER-
STARTER BUI
160
N - T O OTHER CIRCUITS
I - l\A
S
BATTERY
STARTER
.4,
S ^
OQQJMSL
STARTING
MOTOR
TO CHARGE INDICATOR
CONTACT OF CIRCUIT BREAKER 3108
NEGATIVE LEAD
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
completed by means of a relay controlled by a pushbutton switch mounted on the instrument panel. The
return circuit is through the starter motor housing,
engine block, and battery ground strap to the battery.
Figure 41 illustrates the starter mounted on the
8-cylinder engine. The mounting is the same on the
6-cylinder with the exceptions as noted.
0001001)
STARTER
RELAY
Fig. 42-Starter
STARTING
MOTOR
STARTER BUTTON
3043
Load Test (Schematic 1949 and 1950)
NEGATIVE LEAD
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
V.
STARTER
RELAY STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION SWITCH
ooolooo
STARTING
MOTOR
STARTER MOTOR
3042
TO CHARGE INDICATOR
CONTACT OF CIRCUIT BREAKER
~
3116
READ STARTER
AMPS. O N
THIS SCALE
NEGATIVE
LEAD
161
A
AMM
TO OTHER
CIRCUITS
POSITIVE
LEAD
V
STARTER
RELAY STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION SWITCH)
TO CHARGE INDICATOR
CONTACT OF CIRCUIT BREAKER
TURN TO
LEFT BEFORE
CONNECTING
CUPS TO
BATTERY TO
AVOID
SPARKING
BAT. STARTER
POS. LEAD
STARTER
RELAY
3044
3117
READ ON 100
AMP. SCALE
SET TO POS.
POLARITY
POSITIVE LEAD
AMMETER
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
POS. LEAD
0001000
TO STARTER SWITCH
STARTING
MOTOR
STARTER BUTTON
3045
3046
162
Jz
-
NEGATIVE
LEAD
AMMETER
JUMPER LEAD
POSITIVE
LEAD
BATTERY
STARTING
MOTOR
3047
fig, 48Starter No-Load Test (On Test Bench)
NEGATIVE LEAD
VOLTMETER
3049
CONNECT
TO FRAME
CONNECT T O O N E
FIELD BRUSH
AT A TIME
3048
VOLTMETER POSITIVE
3050
163
NEGATIVE LEAD
posmvE
NEGATIVE LEAD
CD//:
BATTERY
(b) COMPLETE DISASSEMBLY. Use the following procedure when it becomes necessary to completely overhaul the starter.
Figure 55 illustrates the starter motor completely disassembled. Part names and numbers are included to aid
you if it is necessary to make replacements. Only the
basic part number is used; when ordering parts refer to
your parts book for the necessary prefix and suffix.
(1) DISASSEMBLY. Remove the starter drive, through
bolts and rear end plate, fig. 55. Be sure to remove all
burrs from the shaft to prevent scoring the rear end plate
bushing. Remove the armature. Remove the cover band.
Remove the brushes from their holders and remove
the brush end plate. Unscrew the ground brush screws
and remove the ground brushes. Remove the nut and
washers from the terminal. Unscrew the two field-poleshoe screws as shown in fig. 56. The arbor press prevents
the wrench from slipping out of the screw.
Remove the pole shoes and field coils from the frame.
It will be necessary to collapse the field coils to remove
the starter terminal screw. Unsolder the terminal screw
from the field coils.
(2) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Wipe the field coils,
armature, commutator and armature shaft with a clean
cloth. Wash all other parts in solvent and dry the parts.
Inspect the armature windings for broken or burned
insulation and unsoldered connections. Check the commutator for runout (fig. 14). Inspect the armature shaft
and the two bearings for scoring and excess wear. Check
the brush holders for broken springs and the insulated
brush holders for shorts to ground. Check the brush
spring tension. It should be 48-56 oz. Replace the springs
if the tension is not within limits. Inspect the field coils
STARTER
RELAY STARTER SWITCH
(ON IGNITION SWITCH)
STARTING
MOTOR
TO CHARGE INDICATOR
CONTACT OF CIRCUIT BREAKER
3118
SET TO NO. 2
NEGATIVE LEAD
POSITIVE LEAD
POSITIVE LEAD i
NEGATIVE L
^r
STARTING
MOTOR
STARTER BUTTON
3052
RELAY
STARTER
3053
164
34906-S
BRUSH SPRING-11059
THROUGH BOLT
11091
BRACKET
11140
ARMATURE11005
FIELD COIL
R.H.11085
KEY74175-S
BRUSH
END PLATE
FIELD C O I L - L.H.11083
DOWEL10088
, t , n o i TERMINAL SCREW
11102
'
POLE SHOE
SCREWS-10044
TERMINAL
SCREW I 11094
GROUND BRUSH
SCREW-25231-S
COVER BAND10142
3054
Wrench
TIGHTEN
SCREWS
"V" Block
SURE TO SEAT DRIVE
HEAD IN SCREW SOCKET
3055
3056
b. Starter Drive.
A spring type starter drive, fig. 59, is used on all cars
Use Sandpaper Only.
Cut Slightly Wider Than Brush.
Soft Jaws
165
PULL IN
DIRECTION OF ~v
ARMATURE ROTATION
3057
3058
Fig. 59Spring Type Starter Drive
166
Remove the drive from the shaft. Any of the parts may
then be replaced since the drive is disassembled when
removed.
To assembly the drive, replace the shaft and pinion
assembly, install the woodruff key, starter drive head,
spring, lockwashers, and screws. A disassembled view of
the drive is shown in fig. 6-1.
A drive spring can be replaced on the spring type
drive without removing the drive from the starter shaft.
Remove the two screws from the drive head and the
shaft and pinion assembly. Slip the spring off the head.
After replacing the spring and screws, be sure to bend
the lock washer tangs against the screw heads.
(b)
DISASSEMBLY
and
ASSEMBLY
(BARREL
TYPE).
Remove the drive from the shaft. Pry the retainer ring
from the barrel and remove the drive shaft assembly.
The meshing spring may then be removed from the barrel.
To assemble the barrel type drive, place the meshing
spring and drive shaft assembly in the barrel. Install
SPRING11375
LOCKWASHER 11379
>^
^
LOCKWASHER 1 1 3 7 9 ^ /
<^
SCREW11377-*\_/
3O6O
3. LIGHTING SYSTEM
An effective and efficient automotive lighting system
is necessary for safe driving. The owner is required by
law to keep the lighting system on his vehicle in good
operating condition. Usually, the owner relies on his
dealer for this service. Certain adjustments can be made
periodically, to keep the lighting system operating at
maximum efficiency.
Wiring diagrams are presented in figs. 63 and 64.
Assembly and disassembly operations are illustrated
when it is necessary to show details or changes in
procedure.
a. Headlight Alignment.
Two methods of headlight alignment are presented:
(1) FORD HEADLIGHT TESTER. The Ford headlight tester provides a rapid accurate means of testing
and aligning headlights. Floor space requirements are
reduced to an area only two feet longer than the vehicle
being tested.
The tester is equipped with an optical system to project the headlight "hot spot" image on a screen inside
the tester. It also has a set of bubble levels to correct
for floor slope and to align the headlights, a lightintensity meter to check beam candle power, and a protractor to measure lateral beam variation from the
centerline of the vehicle.
PINION AND BARREL
11367
DRIVE SHAFT ASSEMBLY
ANCHOR PLATE11372
11366
ANCHOR PLATE11372
MESHING SPRING
11368
RETAINER RING
11370
PIN11365
LOCK RING11373*
SPRING11375
3109
3110
r
TO PARKING AND < * ^ L F=ff
TAIL-LIGHT C I R C U I T ^ j ; p f l t f - * T O
r ^
TO HEADLIGHT SWITCH"*
TO INTERIOR LIGHT SWITCH "*
T ^ ^ "M\
CHARGE INDICATOR
Tj
_ _ J
#74 Y
Red Tracer
HIGH BEAM-v
INDICATOR \
#74
Green-C^
Black Tracers^
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
T O
STARTER
#74 Black
Orange
- * Tracer
#76 Green
Black Tracer
167
1 9 5 1 CIRCUIT BREAKER
TO STOPLIGHT CIRCUIT
TO PARKING AND
TAIL-LIGHT C I R C U I T ^ !
TO HEADLIGHT SWIT<
TO INTERIOR LIGHT SWITC
CIRCUIT
BREAKER
IGNITION LIGHT
-#74 Red
TO CHARGE INDICATOR
.HEADLIGHT
SWITCH
Green Tracer
#76 Green/ - * # 7 6
Red Tracer
/r$
rf
#74
GROUND > ^
TO MOTOR \
#74 Black
Green-Black
#74 RedBlack Trace'r
_]_
PARKING
LIGHTS
Blue
Yellow
Tracer
* # 7 0 Yellow'
#76 BlackBlue Tracer
#76 Black
CHARGE INDICATOR
LICENSE
LIGHTS
OT DIMMER SWITCH
COURTESY-4SWITCHES
L,.
TO INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
Dl
Bl
DELUXE ONLY)
STOPLIGHT
SWITCH
3530
168
FLOOR
SLOPE DIAL
D" ROLL TEST SET
25 FEET AWAY FROM
HEADLIGHT TESTER
A " SET
BOTH DIALS
TO ZERO
HEADLIGHT
DEFLECTION
DIAL
TROUBLE
LIGHT
IMAGE
"C"
WITH TEST SET CLOSE TO HEADLIGHT
ADJUST TESTER TO SAME HEIGHT AS TROUBLE
LIGHT IN DIAGNOSIS TEST SET (THE TROUBLE
LAMP IMAGE WILL BE EXACTLY IN THE CENTER
OF THE CROSSHAIRS)
b. Bulb Replacement.
Replacement of bulbs in the lighting system is illustrated in figs. 71 through 83. These illustrations cover
headlights, road lights, spotlights, parking lights, tail,
stop, and license plate lights, back-up lights, domelights,
and instrument lights.
(1) HEADLIGHTS. The headlight is shown disassembled in fig. 71. Remove the retaining screw and headlight trim ring. Loosen the retaining ring screws and
rotate the retaining ring counter clockwise and remove it.
The headlight bulb may now be pulled forward far
enough to disconnect the wiring assembly plug.
Plug in the new bulb and place in position, making
sure the locating tabs are placed in the positioning slots.
Install the retaining ring, rotating it clockwise under the
screws and tighten the screws. Hook the trim ring at the
top, pull it down into position and replace the screw.
(2) ROADLIGHTS.
The roadlight is shown disassembled in fig. 72. Remove the retaining screw and trim
ring. The bulb may then be removed and the two terminal wires disconnected.
Attach the terminal wires to the new bulb, place the
bulb in the retaining ring, and install the trim ring and
retaining screw.
(3) SPOTLIGHT. The spotlight is shown disassembled in fig. 73. Remove the clamping screw and retaining
ring, this allows the removal of the spotlight bulb. The
two connecting wires may then be removed and a new
bulb installed and the retaining ring fastened in place.
(4) PARKING LIGHT. To replace the bulb in the
parking light remove the retaining screws, retaining ring,
lens, and gasket as shown in fig. 74 or 75. The bulb is the
single contact bayonet type. After the bulb is replaced,
the gasket, lens and retaining ring are then replaced.
169
3504
3502
c. Switches,
Illustrated procedures for the replacement of the headlight switch, beam-control switch, stop-light switch,
dome-light switch and ignition switch are given here.
(1) HEADLIGHT SWITCH. Remove the control
knob and shaft from 1950 and 1951 models by pressing
the spring-release button on the switch housing with the
knob in the OFF position. Turn the shaft slightly and
pull it out of the switch. On 1949 models, the shaft is
released by inserting a small screw driver in a slot provided in the switch housing and compressing the retainer
inside the housing. Turn the shaft slightly and pull it out
of the switch.
Unscrew the mounting nut as shown infig.84. Remove
the switch and disconnect the wires.
To install the switch, connect the wires to their ter-
170
ESTABLISH 3 0 "
HORIZONTAL LINE
O N WALL
3505
"30"LINE
LINE OF ADJUSTMENT
0FLEFT
HEADLIGHT
HEADLIGHT 25 FEET FROM WALL
(HIGH BEAM DIAGRAM)
TRIM RING
3508
RETAINING RING
ADJUSTING
SCREW-13032
BULB
HOUSING
3506
HOUI
TRIM RING l i
WIRING
GROMMET-13091
WIRING
ASSEMBLY-13076
BULB-13007'
RETAINING RING
SCREW
BULB RETAINING R I N G - 1 3 0 1 8
SCREW
3507
SCREW
GROUND LEAD
3531
171
GASKET
BULB
LENS
RETAINING
RING
GASKET
3509
LENS
RETAINING RING
SCREW
3535
GASKET
BULB
LENS
RETAINING RING
SCREW
3534
3510
3513
172
. CLOCK LIGHT
BACK-UP LENS
AND RETAINING
3536
3512
RETAINING RING
HEADLIGHT SWITCH
Tool17470-N
3517
SCREW
3514
FLOOR MAT
INSTRUMENT LIGHTS
3518
IGNITION LIGHT
/
REAR OF INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HOUSING
Fig. 82-lnstrument
3519
3516
173
NOTE: Be sure to remove the dome light fuse before removing the door-pillar switches,
(b) DOME-LIGHT SWITCH (1949). On 1949 models, the
3537
MOUNTING NUT
Fig. 89-Removing
AMMETER
POST
CIRCUIT BREAKER
WIDE SLOT
CONTACT
BI-METAL
3522
IGNITION SWITCH
FUSE
M O U N T I N G BRACKET
3538
3521
174
arm heats, pulls away from the contact point, and breaks
the circuit. When the breaker cools, contact is again
made and the circuit is restored. The breaking action is
positive with no "fluttering" of the contacts.
Breaker assemblies are mounted on the rear of the
instrument panel, as shown in fig. 92. They can be
4. HORNS
Passenger cars are equipped with a pair of tuned horns
controlled by means of a relay. The horn button closes
the relay contacts completing the circuit to the horns.
One of the horns has a high pitched tone; the other has
a low pitched tone.
PARKING A N D TAILLAMPS YR
DOMELIGHT B-BL
CIGAR LIGHTERBL-W
IGNITION Y
OIL PRESSURE
CIRCUIT BREAKER
FUEL
b. Replacement.
On 1949 and 1950 models, due to the variation in the
distance from the radiator to the grille between the
6-cylinder and the 8-cylinder passenger cars, different
procedures are necessary for removing the horn assemblies. After the mounting screws and the connections
have been removed, the horns on the 8-cylinder models
can be removed by lifting them out between the radiator
and hood latch support plate (fig. 95). 6-cylinder horns
must be removed through the grille louvers (fig. 95).
Install the horns through the same openings used for
removal.
1951 horns are mounted on the hood brace (fig. 96).
S**\-
.*NEGATIVE LEAD
AMMETERY
R E G U L A T O R - YIGHTSB- O
AMMETER
KEY TO ABBREVIATIONS
Y-RYellow with red tracer
BL-YBlue with white tracer
G Green
B-BL Black with blue tracer
Y Yellow
B-OBlack with orange tracer
BL-B Blue with black tracer
3523
3525
175
Section 4Horns
RESISTOR ASSEMBLY-13878
HOOD BRACE
MOUNTING SCREW
HORN TERMINALS
AIR-GAPS
3526
MOUNTING BRACKET
3539
5* INSTRUMENTS
The instrument cluster on Ford cars includes an
ammeter, fuel gauge, oil gauge, temperature gauge, and
a speedometer. All the instruments are electrically operated except the speedometer. Illumination of the 1949
and 1950 instruments is provided by four lights enclosed
in special "black light" filters which cause the numerals
on the face to glow when the lights are turned on. 1951
instruments are illuminated by direct light.
This section contains information on operating principles and tests of the various units in the instrument
HORN RELAY
cluster assembly. A circuit diagram showing the connections of the gauges and lights in the 1949 and 1950
assembly is shown infig.99. The 1951 instrument cluster
circuit is shown in fig. 100. A disassembled view of the
1949 and 1950 cluster assembly is shown infig.101.
The instrument cluster assembly can be removed by
first disconnecting the instrument wires, then removing
the light sockets, the speedometer cable, and the two
mounting screws. The cluster can be lifted out at the
rear of the instrument panel. When installing the cluster,
be sure to move all wiring and control cables away from
the opening in the instrument panel.
In removing the 1951 instrument cluster, first disconnect the instrument wires, remove the light sockets, the
speedometer cable and the instrument cluster clamp (at
the top of the cluster, seefig.102). On early models it
will be necessary to remove the black scotch tape which
WASHERS-356343-S
WASHERS-356342-S
SCREWS
BUTTON AND RING
ASSEMBLY3627
41567
PAD-3672
WHEEL ASSEMBLY-3600
3527
3528
176
a. Charge Indicator.
The charge indicator used on 1949 and 1950 cars is a
magnetic loop type ammeter. It has a magnetic loop
which encircles the battery to circuit breaker wire. The
two ends of the element are mounted inside the instrument near an armature which moves the pointer across
the scale as the armature is rotated. A large horseshoe
magnet is mounted to return the armature and pointer
to zero-center reading on the scale.
(1) OPERATING PRINCIPLES. The charge indicator is operated by a magnetic field around the wire
created by the action of a current flow through the wire.
When the current flow is such that the battery is receiving a charge from the generator, the magnetic field,
applied to the armature by the loop, rotates the armature
and causes the pointer to move clockwise into the charge
or "C" scale. When the flow of current through the wire
is in the opposite direction (battery discharging), the
armature and pointer are rotated counterclockwise into
the discharge or "D" scale.
BL-R
B-BL
HEAD LIGHT
AND
PARKING T O
SWITCH
HEAD
LIGHT
SWITCH
CLOCK
CIRCUIT
BREAKER
TO OIL
PRESSURE
SENDER
RELAY
INSTRUMENT
PANEL
LIGHTING
SWITCH
BATTERY
3200
b. Fuel Gauge.
The fuel gauge consists of a sending unit located on
G-B
TO BEAM
CONTROL
SWITCH
FUEL
LEVEL SENDER
ELECTRIC WOUND
CLOCK ONLY
KEY
Y-Yetfow
HORN RING3624
SCREW (8)357879-S8
3540
BATTERY
3541
177
Section 5Instruments
CASE-8A-10846
GLASS-8A-10880
BEZEL-8A-10876
GASKET-8A-10875
AMMETER-8A-10850-B
DIAL-8A-10887.B
FUEL GAUGE-8A-9280
TEMPERATURE GAUGE-8A-10883
SPEED0METER-8A-
RETAINER-8A-1359.8
SCREWS-37611-S8
GASKET-8A-135*
GASKET-8A-10856
FILTER-8A-13593 CASE-8A-10842
SOCKET-48-13710
3201
Fig. 101 Instrument ClusterDisassembled 11949 and 1950)
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
MOUNTING BRACKET
heating coil in the gauge unit, the amount of heat supplied to the gauge unit is the same as that in the tank
unit and is controlled by the average current flowing
through the circuit due to the repeated opening and
closing of the contacts in the tank unit. With the tank
empty, the gauge bimetal therefore assumes the same
relative position as the tank unit bimetal and the
pointer is at the "E" position on the gauge.
When the tank is filled, the float rises with the fuel
level in the tank and the cam moves the grounded contact toward the bimetal arm, increasing the tension
holding the contacts closed. A greater amount of current
is required to heat the tank unit bimetal arm enough to
cause it to open the contacts. A similar greater bending
of the bimetal arm in the gauge unit results in a movement of the needle toward the " F " (full position point)
of the scale.
Because the bimetal changes temperature rather
slowly, the effects of sudden changes in fuel level are
reduced and a steady reading of the average level in the
tank is indicated by the gauge.
(2) FUEL GAUGE SYSTEM TEST. Tests of the
fuel gauge system are divided into "(a) Gauge Unit
Test" and "(b) Sending Unit Test." The method preINSULATED CONTACT
TANK UNIT
GAUGE UNIT
CALIBRATING SHUNT
"BI-METAL ARM
HEATING COIL
BATTERY
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
RETAINING SCREWS
3209
GROUNDED CONTACT
3202
178
sented for testing the fuel gauge unit can also be used
to check the temperature gauge unit and the oil pressure gauge unit.
(a) GAUGE UNIT TEST. Connect a voltmeter and variable resistor to the gauge terminals as shown infig.104.
Disconnect the sending unit to gauge wire at the tank
unit and turn the ignition switch ON. Adjust the resistance until a voltmeter reading of 1.5 volts is obtained.
The gauge pointer should read approximately Yl scale.
CAUTION: Be sure the full resistance is in the circuit before connecting the leads to the gauge unit
to prevent any possibility of applying too much voltage to the gauge.
(b) SENDING UNIT TEST. The sending unit can be
tested by substituting a new gauge for the existing gauge
unit. Determine the approximate fuel level in the tank.
Remove the wires from the old gauge unit and connect
in the new gauge unit. If the new gauge registers correctly, the sending unit is good. If the pointer of the
new gauge does not indicate or moves all the way to
the opposite stop, the sending unit is faulty.
*>
r
SWITCH V - ^ /
BI-METAL ARM
IGNITION SWITCH
3204
d. Temperature Gauge.
The temperature gauge consists of a sending unit
mounted in the cylinder head and a remote register
unit mounted on the instrument panel. On 8-cylinder
models, a thermal switch is also included in the circuit
(fig. 107) to register boiling temperature in the second
cylinder bank. The principle of operation is similar to
the fuel gauge except the tension on the sending-unit
bimetal is varied by engine temperature. In the 6Tool9278-N
^TO
\ .
SENDING UNIT
BULLET
CONNECTOR
^ ^
1
TO OIL PRESSURE.
SENDER . ^
DIAPHRAGM
\^
X NTO
REAR OF INSTRUMENT C L U 5 T E R \ T ^ Ck
WAA
TEMPERATURE SENDERS
3203
y
3205
Section 5Instruments
cylinder circuit, the temperature switch is not included.
(1) OPERATING PRINCIPLES. When the engine
is cold, the bimetal arm in the sending unit has maximum
tension holding the contacts closed. Maximum average
current is necessary to cause the contacts to open. The
heating effect of the current causes the gauge unit
bimetal arm and pointer to deflect toward the "C"
position of the scale. As the engine temperature increases,
less current is required to keep the contacts at the break
point since the increase in engine temperature causes the
sending-unit bimetal to bend away from the grounded
contact. The gauge-unit pointer then registers toward the
"H" position of the scale.
The center mark on the gauge face is considered
"Normal" operating temperature and the "H" mark is
the boiling temperature.
On 8-cylinder engines, the thermal switch can be
identified by the two terminal connectors (the sending
unit has only one connector). The switch is set to open
at 200-212F. With a sending unit in one cylinder bank
and the switch in the other cylinder bank, the gauge
unit will indicate a boiling condition in either bank.
This arrangement is necessary because of the possibility
of one bank operating hotter than normal due to restricted coolant flow.
(2) TEMPERATURE
GAUGE SYSTEM
TEST.
Three tests of the temperature gauge system are outlined below under the following headings "(a) Gauge
Unit Test," "(b) Sending Unit Test," "(c) Thermal
Switch Test."
(a) GAUGE UNIT TEST. Perform the same test described for the fuel gauge and illustrated in fig. 104. The
temperature-gauge pointer should read approximately
}/2 scale.
(b) SENDING UNIT TESTS. The sending unit can be
tested by substituting a new gauge unit for the existing
one. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal
temperature. If no reading is indicated on the new gauge,
check the sending unit to gauge wire. If the wire is not
broken and all connections are clean and tight, the sending unit is faulty.
NOTE: On 8-Cylinder engines, remove a wire from
one terminal of the thermal switch and connect it
to the other terminal during this test.
(c) THERMAL SWITCH TEST. The thermal switch should
be closed at all temperatures below boiling. The switch
can be tested with a test light and battery;. an ohmmeter,
or a dwell meter. It should show continuity (i.e. the
test light should be "on," the ohmmeter should read
"0" ohms, or the dwell meter should read 100% dwell)
when the test leads are connected to the switch terminals.
The switch can also be tested to determine if it will
open at boiling temperatures by placing the bulb in
boiling water and testing it with a test light and battery,
an ohmmeter, or a dwell meter. After a short time of
immersion the switch should open.
179
(3) SENDING UNIT OR THERMAL SWITCH REPLACEMENT. The sending unit or the thermal switch can be
removed by disconnecting the wire (s) at the unit terminals and unscrewing the unit from the cylinder head.
e. Speedometer.
The speedometer is connected to the output shaft of
the transmission by means of a flexible shaft and a gear
drive located inside the transmission. The flexible shaft
drives the speedometer which registers speed in miles
per hour and also drives an odometer which records
distance traveled in miles and tenths of a mile.
(1) SPEEDOMETER TESTS. The procedure recommended for testing odometer accuracy is to drive the
vehicle over a "measured mile" and determine the
readings increase on the odometer by subtracting starting mileage from finishing mileage. Speedometer accuracy can be checked by comparing the speedometer in
question against one known to be accurate while the
two vehicles are moving at the same speed.
Most cases of speedometer inaccuracy are due to a
change to non-standard tire sizes without changing the
speedometer drive gear ratio. Table 1 shows the correct
speedometer drive gear ratio to use for various tire sizes.
(2) SPEEDOMETER CABLE REPLACEMENT. To
replace the speedometer drive cable, disconnect the cable
housing at the speedometer and pull the cable out of the
Table I Tire Size and Speedometer Gear Ratio
Axle
Ratio
Driving
Gear Teeth
Driven
Gear Teeth
6:00 x 16
3.31
3.54
3.727
4.10
7
7
7
7
17
18
19
21
6:00x15
3.31
3.54
3.727
4.10
7
7
7
7
!7
18
19
21
6:50x16
3.31
3.54
3.727
4.10
7
7
7
7
17
18
19
21
6:70x15
3.31
3.54
3.727
4.10
7
7
7
7
17
18
19
21
7:10x15
3.54
3.92
4.27
7
7
7
18
20
22
Tire Size
180
housing. Insert a new cable all the way into the housing
and twist it slightly to make sure the squared drive
engages in the transmission drive bushing.
NOTE: / / a speedometer cable is broken, it will be
necessary to disconnect both ends of the cable housing in order to remove the broke sections.
The housing is fastened to the transmission by means
of a clip and screw as shown in fig. 108.
IGNITION SWITCH
SENDING UNIT
3206
SPEEDOMETER CABLE:
BOLT
3208
Fig, 108-Speedc meter Cable HousingTransmission
Mounting
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part THREE
II
Accessories
Section
1
2
3
4
5
P a g e
Radio.
...
Heater
Overdrive
Windshield Wiper
.
Miscellaneous Accessories
181
190
194
. . 201
202
1. RADIO
Radio receivers used in Ford cars are factorjr tuned
and adjusted and under normal operating conditions
will give trouble-free service over long periods. However, occasional difficulties may arise, and the material
in this section is presented to guide you in making tests,
minor repairs, and minor adjustments of the radio receiver. A pictorial diagram showing the radio connections
is given infig.1.
The material has been divided under headings as
follows:
"a. General Information," for model identification,
accessibility, controls, etc.
"b. Tests and Adjustments," covering current draw
tests, antenna tests, push-button adjustment, antenna
trimmer adjustments, etc.
"c. Minor Repairs," outlining mechanical repair to
the tuning mechanism, pilot light replacement, etc.
Connectors," "(4) Chassis Mountings," "(5) Accessibility," and "(6) Removal and Installation."
(1) MODEL IDENTIFICATION.
Four models of
radio receivers were supplied for the 1949 Ford cars. A
fifth model was supplied for export use.
Four receiver models are supplied for 1950 cars and
three models for 1951 cars. Table 1 gives information on
model identification.
The model number identifies the manufacturer and is
the prefix to the serial number stamped on the left side
of the receiver (fig. 2).
(2) CONTROLS. Tuning is controlled by five push
buttons or by the tuning knob on the right side of the
receiver face. Volume and tone are controlled by the
dual knob on the left side of the receiver face. Models
9BF, 9DF, 9MF, OBF, OMF, 1BF and IMF, are turned
FUSE CONNECTOR
a. General Information.
The material covered has been arranged as follows:
"(1) Model Identification," "(2) Controls," "(3) Chassis
PILOT LIGHT CONNECTION TO INSTRUMENT _
LIGHT CIRCUIT (1951 MODEL O N L Y ) ^
IGNITION SWITCH
*4 r*
O,
TO ANTENNA
TO SPEAKER
BULLET CONNECTOR TO
WIRING HARNESS0951) CARS'
3845
3803
181
182
Chapter II-Accessories
"A" LEAD
TUNING KNOB
TUNING PUSH BUTTON
"OFF" PUSH BUTTON
TONE CONTROL KNOB
ANTENNA
VOLUME CONTROL KNOB
TRIMMER
3801
1949 Models
Part
Number
Model
No.
Manufacturer
No.
Tubes
8A-18805-A1
8A-18805-A2
8A-18805-A3
8A-18805-B1
8A-18805-D
9BF
9DF
9MF
9ZF
9ZF
Bendix
Detrola
Motorola
Zenith
Zenith
6
6
6
8
8
All Cars
All Cars
All Cars
All Cars
Export Cars
Bendix
Motorola
Colonial
Zenith
Colonial
Zenith
6
6
All Cars
All Cars
All Cars
0A-18805-C
OBF
OMF
OCF
OZF
OCF
OZF
Export Cars
1951 Models
1A-18805-A1
1A-18805-A2
1A-18805-B
1A-18805-D
1BF
IMF
1CF
1CF
Bendix
Motorola
Colonial
Colonial
6
6
8
8
All Cars
All Cars
All Cars
Station Wagon
Application
ANTENNA TRIMMER
1950 Models
0A-18805-A1
0A-18805-A2
0 A-18805-B
ZENITH
ANTENNA CONNECTOR
BENDIX
DETROLA, MOTOROLA
3804
Section 1Radio
183
iff
3806
(e) Connect the speaker plug, "A" lead and fuse, and
push antenna lead firmly into connector.
OUTPUT
6V6-GT
R.F.
6SK7-GT
VIBRATOR
RECTIFIER6X5-GT
DETECTOR6SQ7-GT
3807
CONVERTER.-6SA7-G.T.
R.F.-6SK7-G.T.
OUTPUT-6V6-G.T.
RECTIFIER
6X5-G.T.
CONVERTER-6SA7-G.T.
R.F..7A7
6SK7-G.T,
I.F.-6SK7-G.T.
DRIVER
6SN7-G.T.
VIBRATOR
Models-9DF-9MF
CONVERTER
6SA7-G.T.
DETECTOR-6SQ7-G.T.
7AF7
Model-9BF
f
\
DETECTOR
6SR7-G.T.
I.F.-6BA6 7f
6SK7,-G.T.
^OUTPUT
6V6-.G.T.
RECTIFIER
6X5-G.T.
7 Y 4
OUTPUT-6V6-G.T.
Models-8ZT-9ZF
3830
6SK7-G.T.
R.
OSCILLATOR
6SA7-G.T.
CONVERTER
OUTPUT
RECTIFIER
6SA7-G.T.
6V6-G.T
F.
6SK7-G.T.
A7-G.T.
CONVERTER
. F.
6SK7-G.T.
VIBRATOR
INVERTOR
6J5-G.T.
OUTPUT
6V6-G.T.
F.
6SK7-G.T.
DETECTOR
6SQ7-G.T.
UT
6V6-G.T.
FOR
6SQ7-G.T.
VIBRATOR
-6SK7-G.T.
RECTIFIER
6X5-GT
VIBRATOR
Fig. 10-Tube
5"
OUTPUT
6V6-G.T.
DETECTOR
6SQ7-G.T.
MODEL OBF
3847
CO
Chapter IIAccessories
186
READ ON
9 VOLT SCALE
READ ON
50 AMP.. SCALEREGULATOR
SET TO
TEST
POS.
NEC
METER
100% ON IGNITION
DWELL SCALE
SELECTORS
ADJUST
DWELL
READING
100% WITH
THIS KNOB
SET TO # 2
(9 VOLT)
GROUND
POLARITY
3810
NEG.
Fig. 11Receiver
Volt Ampere
Test
100% ON IGNITION
DWELL SCALE
METER SELECTOR
FIRST CONNECT
TEST LEADS
TOGETHER AND
ADJUST DWELL
READING. TO
100% WITH
THIS KNOB
ADJUST ID CAlltBATC
POS.
ANTENNA
3809
TRIMMER CONDENSER
3811
Section 1Radio
MOUNTING PLATE
187
TANG
3814
Check for rattles
TUNING PLATE
3812
c. Minor Repairs.
Procedures that can be used by a repair mechanic to
do minor repair on the radio receiver are outlined here.
Minor repair involves mechanical adjustments and corrections of the tuning mechanism and antenna trimmer
and replacement of pilot lights, vibrators, and antenna.
The procedures are written assuming the receiver is
removed from the vehicle.
(1) ANTENNA TRIMMER. If the antenna trimmer
unit will not "peak" the volume when the trimmer
knob is rotated in either direction, remove the receiver
cover (top cover on 8-tube models, bottom cover on
6-tube models) and examine the condenser tuning plate
(see figs. 14 through 16) for movement while the trimmer
knob is rotated. If there is no movement of the tuning
plate, the knob screw is disengaged from the adjusting
nut or the threads are stripped. If the knob screw is
disengaged, it can be engaged by pressing the tuning
plate toward the condenser body and turning the knob
until the screw moves into the nut. If threads are stripped,
TUNING
PLATE
3813
PILOT LIGHTS
*/
3815
188
Chapter IIAccessories
Fig. 21-Pilot
3852
3853
Tun-
"A"
PILOT LIGHTS
3816
Fig. 20-Pilot
SPRING
CAM LOCK
3817
Section 1 Radio
189
TUNING CAM
CAM LOCK
3820
(fig. 30). The tang should clear the mounting plate only
enough to permit free movement.
3818
Fig. 23-Clutch
21
3819
3822
ADJUSTING ARM
CLUTCH
3855
190
Chapter IIAccessories
2. HEATER
Heaters used on 1950 and 1951 Ford vehicles are
basically the same as those used in 1949. The major
difference is in the heater control unit and the plenum
chamber as shown in figs. 32 and 33.
A circuit diagram for 1949 and 1950 cars is shown ip.
fig. 34 to aid in tracing the heater electrical circuit. A
circuit diagram for 1951 cars is shown infig.35.
The material presented here has been divided under
the headings shown below:
"a. General Information," outlining operating principles, accessibility, controls, etc.
"b. Tests and Adjustments," describing a current
draw test and control adjustments.
a. General Information.
The information given here appears under the headings
"(1) Operating Principles" and "(2) Accessibility."
(1) OPERATING PRINCIPLES. The heater is designed to function in conjunction with the right-hand
duct of the fresh air ventilating system. The heater
blower couples to an outlet provided in the right-hand
fresh air valve assembly. A valve in the duct is operated
by a control located on the dash panel, allowing the selection of outside air for ventilation or heating, or for recirculating the air within the car.
The temperature of the heated air is controlled by a
thermostat valve that automatically regulates the flow
3823
WASHER
3824
Fig. 30-Tuning
ANTENNA
MAST NUT
LOCKWASHER
3825
191
Section 2 Heater
NOZZLE-18491
^fe
-18556
NOZZLE18491
LOCKWASHER-34846-S
NUT
33797-S
WASHER-34746-S
SCREW-33183-S
CONNECTOR
18584
.Y18548
BEZEL-18598
18567
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
18578
FAN18504
355312-S
NUT
34079-S^
LOCKWASHER
351253-S-
CONTROL ASEMBLY
18518
GASKET18583
MOTOR18527
CLIP14586
CLAMP-18572-
ff- ELBOW _ 8 A - 1 8 5 99
NIPPLE8M-18599-
3062
NOZZLE-R.H.-1849
SCREW-33183-S
CONTROL ASSEMBLY
18548
CONTROL ASSEMBLY
18518
7001890 '
-34079-S
LOCKWASHER
34846-
LOCKWASHER-3 4803-S
NUT-33797KNOB-7001892
CONNECTOR18584
KNOB
17513
BULB
13466
SWITCH
ASSEMBLY
18578
SEAL-18594
CORE ASSEMBLY
18476
GASKET18596
CLAMP18572
SCREW-32909-S
FAN18504
HOSE-18472
NUT34079
CLAMP-1857
NUT
11662
SWITCH ASSEMBLY
18623
Y-18471
NIPPLE8M-18599
LOCKWASHER
351253-S
SET
355312-S
MOTOR ASSEMBLY
18527
3063
192
Chapter IIAccessories
HEATER MOTOR
COVER-PLATE LOCATION
HEATER
SWITCH
O X*IGNITION SWITCH
"RA-GA" \ v > /
<ZLy
Fig. 34-Heater
HEATER MOTOR
B^H
:
*-FUSE
Circuit 7949 and 7950
3064
HEATER SWITCH
3066
installing the blower and fan, be sure the ground connection is clean and tight.
3120
Fig. 35-Heater
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
BLOWER CONTROL
DEFROSTER CONTROL
HEATER
3O65
Section 2Heater
AIR INLET VALVE
BLOWER ASSEMBLY
VALVE CONNECTIONS
HEATER CONNECTIONS
3067
193
Tool17470-N
(2) 1950 AND 1951 HEATER CONTROL ADJUSTMENT. The upper lever of the control assembly is connected to the temperature regulator valve on the heater.
The lever must be adjusted so that it closes the valve
when lever is ^6 to }/g inch from left-hand end of slot
(fig. 44).
W"
BEZEL-8A-18598-B
CONTROL PANEL-8A-18597-A
/
LOCK WASHER-34*
DEFROSTER CONTROL-8A.18548-A
NUT-351056-S8
TEMPERATURE CONTROL-8A-18518
3068
Fig. 39-Heater
3070
FLAT PORTION
FACES TOWARD
FLANGE
BLOWER MOTOR
3071
"^T"
"^
TO OTHER
CIRCUITS
311.1
3O72
194
Chapter IIAccessories
WTO-tt
DAMPER
MEDIUM
HIGH
RECIRCULATE
VENTILATE
DEFROST
HEAT
3073
PASSENGER
COMPARTMENT
3074
3. OVERDRIVE
The function of the overdrive unit !n the power train
is to reduce the engine to rear axle ratio by approximately 30%, resulting in lower engine speeds for the
same vehicle speed under normal driving conditions.
Reduced engine speed increases operating economy, passenger comfort, and cuts down on engine maintenance.
How the reduction of engine to rear axle ratio is
accomplished by the overdrive unit is described in "a.
Operating Principles." "b. Tests" illustrates methods of
testing overdrive units to determine if they are in working order, "c. Repair" outlines procedures for repair and
replacement of overdrive units.
a. Operating Principles.
In order to service the overdrive, it is important to
first understand how it operates. The description of operation has been divided into two parts: "(1) Overdrive
Mechanical," describing the power train part of the unit,
and "(2) Overdrive Electrical," outlining the function
of control circuit which controls automatic action of
overdrive.
POSITION OF KICKDOWN,
SWITCH TO
ONTACTS OPEN DISENGAGE OVERDRIVE(OVERDRIVE
DISENGAGED)
BLUE-ORANGE TR.
CONTACTS
OPEN AT
21 M.P.H.
LOCKOUT SWITCH
(NOT ON 1951 CARS)
ONTACTS
CLOSED
(OVERDRIVE
ENGAGED)
GOVERNOR
(CONTACTS
CLOSE AT
27 M.P.H.)
"="
CONTACTS OPEN
(OVERDRIVE ENGAGED)
Fig. 46-Overdrive
CONTACTS OPEN
OVERDRIVE DISENGAGED)
ONTACTS CLOSED
(OVERDRIVE
ENGAGED)
CHARGE
INDICATOR
BREAKER
CONTACTS
SOLENOID COIL
CONTACTS Ct
(OVERDRIVE
DISENGAGED)
The working
3075
Electrical Circuit
195
Section 3Overdrive
TRANSMISSION SHAFT
BALK RING
ru
SOLENOID
OVERDRIVE GEAR PAWL
ADAPTER PLATE
CENTRIFUGAL GOVERNOR
(HELICAL GEAR DRIVE
FROM OVERDRIVE SHAFT)
SPEEDOMETER DRIVE
OVERDRIVE SHAFT
OVERDRIVE SHAFT FRONT
BEARING
OVER-RUNNING CLUTCH
(SPLINED TO TRANSMISSION SHAFT)
INTERNAL RING GEAR
(SPLINED TO OVERDRIVE SHAFT)
SUN GEAR (SLIDE FIT OVER
TRANSMISSION SHAFT)
PLANETARY GEARS-(3) (HELICAL
TYPE, NEEDLE BEARING MOUNTED)
PLANET CARRIER (SPLINED TO TRANSMISSION SHAFT)
OVERDRIVE HOUSING
Fig. 47-Overdrive
3076
CLUTCH. ROLLER
TRANSMISSION
MAINSHAFT
CLUTCH
OUTER RACE
OVERDRIVE
MAINSHAFT
3077
PAWL
BALK RING
3069
196
Chapter IIAccessories
PLANETARY
CAGE
SUN GEAR
\
PLANETARY
(HELD STATIONARY)
TO SOLENOID
OVERDRIVE RELAY
0-50 AMMETER
GROUNDED
JUMPER
WIRE
TRANSMISSION
MAINSHAFT
OVERDRIVE MAINSHAFT
3078
teeth with the teeth in the pinion cage. The sun gear and
the pinions are locked together and, since the pinions
cannot rotate if locked to the sun gear, the output shaft
internal gear is forced to rotate with the transmission
main shaft (fig. 51).
When the transmission is shifted into reverse (overdrive control knob IN), the shift rail must be moved to
the rear position to lock the sun gear and pinion carrier,
since the overdrive clutch will not transmit a reverse
drive. The shift rail is moved to the rear position by a
cam on the reverse gear shifter fork inside the transmission housing. The cam automatically moves the shift
rail to the rear, locking the overdrive when the transmission is shifted into reverse.
(2) OVERDRIVE ELECTRICAL. While the mechanical portion of the overdrive just described may be
considered the "working" part, the drive conditions are
controlled automatically by the electrical circuit. The
circuit consists of a solenoid, governor, lockout switch
(1951 cars equipped with overdrive do not have a lockout
switch), kickdown switch, relay, and connecting wires.
These elements of the control circuit are wired as shown
in the diagram illustrated infig.46. The power circuit
(6r solenoid circuit) is represented by the heavy lines
shown in fig. 46. This portion of the circuit supplies
current to energize the solenoid. The control circuit is
represented by light lines in the same illustration. It
controls the flow of current to the solenoid by closing
or opening the relay contacts in the power circuit. The
electrical circuit operation can be best described by
separating its functions into the thre operating conditions: "(a) Speed Controlled," "(b) Driver Controlled
(Kickdown)," and "(c) Locked Out."
(a) SPEED CONTROLLED. When the overdrive dash
control is IN, the lockout switch is closed and the closing
TO IGNITION SWITCH
TO KICKDOWN SWITCH
of the control circuit is dependent on the governor contacts. As long as the vehicle speed remains below the
cut-in speed of the governor (approximately 27 m.p.h.),
the overdrive unit will remain in direct drive. Whenever
the vehicle speed reaches the cut-in point of the governor,
the governor contacts close, completing the control
circuit to ground. A current flows through the relay coil,
causing the relay contacts to close. The power circuit
to the solenoid is now completed and current flows
through the solenoid windings, causing the solenoid
armature to energize (move to the "in" position). When
the armature is fully energized, it disconnects the traction
coil by opening a set of contacts inside the solenoid
housing, leaving the holding coil connected in the circuit.
The motion of the solenoid armature is applied to the
stem and pawl through an inner spring so that the pawl
is "urged" to engage the sun gear control plate bjr the
action of the spring instead of being forced to engage
the plate by direct action of the solenoid armature. As
soon as driving torque is released from the overdrive,
the pawl engages control plate and overdrive is in action.
The overdrive shifts down automatically when the
vehicle speed drops to the cut-out speed of the governor
(approximately 21 m.p.h.). At cut-out, the governor
contacts open, interrupting the control circuit, thus causing the relay contacts to open. The power circuit is now
open and the solenoid returns to the "out" position,
BL.
CARBON PILE
RHEOSTAT
OVERDRIVE MAINSHAFT
3079
3080
197
Section 3Overdrive
LOCKOUT. SWITCH MOUNTING PAD
Work Stand'
3O82
SHIFT RAIL PIN
withdrawing the pawl from the control plate. The overdrive now returns to direct drive.
(b) DRIVER CONTROLLED (KICKDOWN). AS stated pre-
3084
DISCONNECT LEAD AT
LOCKOUT SWITCH
SHIFT RAIL
SHAFT PULLED
OUT
3O8S
198
Chapter IIAccessories
SUN GEAR
OVERDRIVE MAINSHAFT
3086
b. Tests.
3088
c. Repair.
The information presented here is divided into three
parts: "(1) Disassembly," "(2) Inspection," and "(3)
Assembly." The procedures are written assuming the
overdrive and transmission are removed from the vehicle
and mounted on a work stand or clamped in a vise.
It is advisable to drain the transmission and overdrive
before removal from the vehicle.
SNAP RING
CLUTCH-TO-TRANSMISSION-MAINSHAFT RETAINER
3087
.3089
199
Section 3Overdrive
ADAPTER PLATE-7660
TRANSMISSION MAINSHAFT7061
SNAP RING
7109
SYNCHRONIZER
BLOCKING RING
OW AND REVERSE
GEAR-7100
7107
SNAP RING
7059
RMEDIATE
GEAR-7102
SNAP RING-7109
INTERMEDIATE AND HIGH
CLUTCH HUB-7105
TRANSMISSION
MAINSHAFT
SLEEVE-7106
3090
(1) DISASSEMBLY.
Remove the lockout switch,
and turn the assembly over to permit the two steel balls
under the switch to drop out (fig. 54). Remove the
governor assembly with a special tool (fig. 55). Remove
the four overdrive housing bolts, the shift rail pin, and
the cover located on top of the overdrive housing (fig. 56).
SNAP RING
BEARING
3092
TRANSMISSION MAINSHAFT
3091
CONTROL PLATE
BALK RING
3093
200
Chapter IIAccessories
PAWL
CONTROL PLATE
3094
CLUTCH C A M /
PLANETARY CAGE
CAM-TO-MAINSHAFT RETAINER
3O96
SHIFT RAIL
3095
3097
Section 3Overdrive
LOCKOUT
SWITCH
MOUNTING
PAD
201
[-356094-813' /
WASHER-8A-17541-A
SPACER-8A-17515-A
3100
3098
4, WINDSHIELD WIPER
The windshield wiper used on 1949, 1950 and 1951
Ford cars is shown infig.72. The wiper motor is mounted
on a bracket in the car installation. The bracket is
mounted by means of the wiper pivot arm bushings.
a. Disassembly.
If service is required on the motor assembly, linkage,
or the mounting bracket, the bracket and motor assembly should be removed, as a unit from the car before
further disassembly is attempted. To remove the bracket
and motor assembly, disconnect the vacuum line, remove
the control assembly from the instrument panel with a
special wrench (fig. 73). Lift off the wiper arms and blades.
Remove the pivot attaching nuts, spacers, and washers.
Tool17470-N
GOVERNOR MOUNTING THREADS
3099
3113
202
Chapter 11Accessories
CLOCK
2 AMP. FUSE
MOUNT ARM AND
PIVOT SHAFT ASSEMBLY
8A-17566-A
Qfi+
CLIP-06H-17531
TO LIGHTING SWITCH
CIRCUIT BREAKER
3103
Fig. 75Electric Clock Circuit
b. Assembly.
MOTOR ASSEMBLY
8A-17508
3102
Fig. 74Mounting Bracket and MotorDisassembled
5. MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES
given here for certain of the
a. Clocks.
EXISTING HARNESS
TO REAR LIGHTS
3105
203
Sf^GreenOrange tr.
TO LH. TAIL
LAMP
IGNITION SWITCH
TERMINAL MARKED
"RAD. GA."
Black-Yellow tr.
LH. PARKING LAMP
White-Blue tr.
T""
GreenOrange tr.
3106
b. Turn Indicator.
This material on the turn indicator is given to aid in
the service of existing installations and as a supplement
to the instruction sheet which accompanies each indicator unit parts kit.
A length of stiff baling wire will aid in pulling the new
parking lamp leads through the rubber grommet in the
fender. Push the wire through from the top and pull the
lead in from below. The use of friction tape to streamline
the attachment of the lead to the baling wire will also
help.
Difficulty may be encountered in certain models in
routing the lead to the left-hand tail lamp, due to the
curvature of the fender well. (See point "A," fig. 76).
This situation will be helped by pushing a stiff wire
through the opening at the base of the door pillar as
far as it will go and drawing it into the luggage compartment with another hooked wire. Turn indicator
c. Windshield Washer.
There are two winjdshield washers available, one is
vacuum operated and the other is foot operated. The
storage bottle of both models is mounted on the engine
side of the dash panel (fig. 78).
After installation, test the washer to make sure there
are no leaks in the system. If the installation is made
during cold weather fill the storage bottle with all
weather windshield washer solution.
WASHER OUTLET
WIPER
VACUUM
LINE
ST AGE
BOTTLE
VACUUM OPERATED
FOOT OPERATED
3107
fig. 78-Windshield
Washer Installation
Part FOUR
BODIES
Chapter
.
1
2
3
4
Page
Construction Details
Alignment .
Quarter Panel Repair
General Body .Maintenance
..
204
.210
. 216
218
1. CONSTRUCTION DETAILS
Body construction details are clearly presented here
by sectional views of all major parts of the body (figs.
1 through 22). In cases of complete panel replacement
or where only -a portion of a particular panel requires
MOULDING
LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT
OUTSIDE PANEL
*SPOT WELDED
QUARTER WHEEL
HOUSE INNER PANEL
COMPARTMENT
INNER PANEL
TER WHEEL
HOUSE OUTER
PANEL
NG OUTSIDE
4101
4102
204
205
410
ROOF PANEL
DRIP MOULDING
QUARTER PANEL
ROOF RAIL
QUARTER PANEL
INSIDE DOOR PANEL
OUTSIDE DOOR PANEL
WEATHERSTRIP
4104
4106
206
Chapter IBodies
INSIDE TR M PANEL
ROOF PA
HEADLINING
MOULDING ASS'Y
REINFORCEMENT
QUARTER W I N D O W
QUARTER W I N D O W GLASS
REINFORCEMENT
BODY SIDE LOWER EDGE
4109
QUARTER PANEL.
BRACE CENTER P I L L A T T O FLOOR
REINFORCEMENT
DY LOWER EDGE-REAR
SEALED
WITH
SEALER
SEAL'
4108
4110
207
QUARTER W I N D O W ASS'Y
__ ^
_
WEATHER STRIP
FINISH STRIP
REGULATOR PANEL
MOULDING W s i X ^ ^ X J
QUARTER
w ^
.
^^.m1UM^
J
^-REVEAL
M O U L D I NG
UARTER PANEL
VENTILATING QUARTER
WINDOW
STATIONARY QUARTER
WINDOW
DOOR BO
WEATHER STRIP;
INSIDE
DOOR PANEL
DOOR OUTSIDE
PA
REINFORCEMENT LOW
W I N D O W OPENING
FLOOR CARPET
FRONT FLOOR
CROSS MEMBER ASS'Y
R SILENCER
SEALER
RUBBER MAT
ET ASS'Y
ASHE
NUT
BOLT
SPACER
4112
208
Chapter IBodies
AINER
WIND LA
DOOR TRIM PANEL
T HEAD BOLTS
REINFORC
ROOF PANEL
SILENCER
SEALER BETWEEN ROOF
PANEL AND DRIP^"
LINING SUPPO
HEAD LINING ASS'Y
ROOF RAIL
REINFORCEMENT
ROOF
J
CENTER^PILLAR
FRONT
DOOR
DE PANEL
WEATHERSTRIP
(CEMENT SECURELY!
SILENCER
-ROOF PAN
HEADLIN
RETAINER
ROOF RAIL
ROOF RAIL
REINFORCEMENT
SEALER BETWEEN
ROOF PANEL AND
DRIP MOULDI
*-DRIP MOULDING
TACKING STRIP*
DOOR
INSIDE PANEL
MOULDING AND
WEATHERSTRIP ASS'Y
^S
D O W REINFORCEMENT/
ASS'Y GARNISH
MOULDING AND
WEATHER STRIP
EXTENSION
CENTER
PILLAR
FRONT
INSIDE PANEL
FRONT DOOR OUTSIDE P p L | | ( | | | | |
l! I I^SWEATHERSTRI
\ \ ^ DOOR FINISH S
7 W
HINGE (NOTE-CEMENT SECUREL
209
VENT WINDOW
WEATHERSTRIP
TACKING STRI
IELD FINISH STRIP
:\
SCREW
WINDSHIELD GLASS
Black Rubber Cement and
Sealer
\\
WINDSHIELD MOULDIN
FRONT
INSIDE PA
^WIND LACE A
REINFORC
WINDSHIELD WEATHERS
(Applied
//,Over
Pinchweld)
\
FRONT ROOF
SIDE RAIL REINFORCEMENT
4118
DIVISION BAR
MOULDING
HOOD PANEL
41!
Chapter IBodies
210
2. ALIGNMENT
This section describes the methods used to perform
this important segment of body repairing. In many cases
of body damage, a section will require aligning as well
as refinishing. Failure to properly align some body sections can be the cause of excessive rattling and vibration.
The procedures for aligning doors, fenders, and deck
lids as well as information concerning the aligning of a
complete body assembly are given below.
a. Doors.
Before attempting any door aligning, make sure the
body mounting bolts are tightened to the correct torque
as shown in fig. 23.
To correct door misalignment, it is usually necessary
to shift the door in one direction or another. Before
attempting to align a door, make a visual inspection to
determine in what direction the door can be shifted. As
an example, a door that is sagged cannot in some cases
be corrected by spreading the lower door hinge. The
first step is to determine the space available between
the door and the opening in the body. This will establish
where and how the door can be shifted to obtain proper
alignment.
A sagged door is usually caused by the door being
opened beyond the limit of the hinge or check strap.
This shifts the door close to the lock pillar, and it will
18 TO 20
18 TO 20
Jf 15 TO 18
TO 20
L *18
15
18
Jt 18 TO
/
TO 20
+ 15 TO 18
18 TO 20
1*
15
18 TO 20
f 15 TO 18
18 TO 20
CONVERTIBLE ONLY
HSs
18 TO 20
18 TO 20
STATION W A G O N ONLY
== + 18 TO 20
18 TO 20
15 TO 18
18 TO 20
TO 18
TO 20
Section 2Alignment
211
4162
4157
4158
tion to the one shown in the illustrations, the bar is reversed so that pressure is applied to the outer side of
the door instead of the inner side.
4159
212
Chapter IBodies
b. Front Fenders.
The front fenders are mounted in such a manner that
either fender can be shifted fore or aft. It is this movement that regulates the clearance between the forward
edge of the door and the vertical edge of the fender. This
alignment is accomplished by loosening the three bolts
securing the rear edge of the fender to the cowl side
panel (fig. 28). Working in the engine compartment,
loosen the two cap screws at the upper rear corner of the
fender, then loosen the cap screw at the lower edge of
the fender as indicated in fig. 28.
Place a spoon between the edge of the door and
fender to shift the fender forward as shown in fig. 29.
To shift the fender toward the rear, place a pry bar
between the front tire and the lower rear edge of the
fender apron for leverage as shown in fig. 30. It is necessary to hold the fender to the desired position until
the fender bolts are tightened.
4147
4146
4148
Section 2Alignment
adjust the striker plate. If the deck lid does not seal
properly after properly adjusting the striker plate, it
will be necessary to bend or twist the deck lid.
If trouble is experienced in sealing the deck lid on
early 1949 models, a breaker strip can be installed over
the edge of the drain gutter (fig. 31). This breaker strip
(8A-7043734) is available for service. If necessary,
straighten the drain gutter edge to eliminate any waves
or kinks in the metal. It is advisable to check the deck
lid after installing the breaker strip to make sure the
weatherstrip is sealing properly around the deck lid
opening as described above.
(a) TWISTED DECK LID. If the deck lid is twisted
so that it does not seat properly on one side, it can be
corrected by placing a rubber mallet between the deck
lid and the extension panel opposite the side that requires lowering as shown in fig. 32. Close the deck lid
to apply pressure against the mallet. This will force the
opposite side of the deck lid down. Do not apply excessive pressure against the mallet. Check the deck lid, and
if necessary repeat the above procedure.
(b) DECK LID DOES NOT FOLLOW CONTOUR OF
BODY. This condition may exist at several points along
4077
Fig. 31 Breaker Strip Installation
213
If the deck lid does not fit along the lower back panel,
this condition can be corrected as follows:
Place a piece of paper between the deck lid and lower
back panel. Close the deck lid, and pull the paper. If
the deck lid is sealing properly the paper cannot be
pulled out. Make this same check at both ends and at
the center next to the striker plate. If no contact is
obtained at the striker plate, adjust the striker plate.
If contact is made at both ends and not at the center
after the striker plate has been adjusted, place two
mallets at each corner and apply pressure against the
deck lid as shown in fig. 35.
4150
Chapter IBodies
214
In some cases, the lower back panel may be hammered out toward the deck lid by striking the inner side
of the back panel with a rubber mallet. If the deck lid
is tight at the center and no contact is obtained at either
or both lower corners of the deck lid, two methods can
be used to make the correction. The first is to hold the
deck lid part way open, and with a rubber mallet, strike
the corner of the deck lid that is not making contact.
The other method is to place the mallet between the
deck lid and lower panel at approximately the center.
Apply pressure against the deck lid on the side that is
not making contact as shown in fig. 36.
(2) REPLACEMENT.
NOTE: When replacing the deck lid9 care should be
taken not to damage the body paint.
(a) REMOVAL. Raise the deck lid. Disconnect the
license plate light wire at the bullet connection (fig.
37). With an assistant to hold the deck lid up, remove
the screws that secure the support rod to the deck lid.
Remove deck lid hinge screws and the deck lid.
(b) INSTALLATION. Position the deck lid on the body.
If necessary, use a new rubber gasket under the hinges.
Line up each hinge with the mounting holes in the deck
lid. Install the deck lid hinge screws and tighten until
snug. Lower the deck lid, and check the fit along the
top and sides to assure proper alignment. Shift the deck
lid either up or to one side until the proper fit is obtained, then tighten the hinge screws.
4151
Fig. 34-Method
4152
(3)
4153
215
Section 2Alignment
BULLET CONNECTION-LICENSE PLATE LIGHT WIRE
WEATHERSTRIP
HINGE
SCREWS
POINT B
REINFORCEMENT
QUARTER PANEL
LOCK SIDE AT
HEIGHT OF CREASE
LINE.
4058
d. Body Alignment.
In many cases it is difficult to obtain proper body
alignment when repairing a body that is damaged on
both sides. The following illustrations (figs. 38 through
44) are primarily designed to assist in aligning bodies
without the use of another body as a sample.
All dimensions indicated in the various illustrations
are measured from the bare metal. This requires the
removal of the interior trim from the check points.
Although some of the dimensions indicated are in %4
inch, a Vs inch tolerance is permissible.
When checking alignment of a body that is badly
CEN
damaged, check and make the necessary frame corrections before attempting to align the body.
Badly damaged areas must be roughed out before
taking measurements for squaring up a body. Glass
should be removed to prevent breakage. Reinforcement
brackets and other inner construction often will have
to be removed or cut in severe cases to permit restoration of outer shell and pillars without excessive strain
on the parts. Of course after this these parts must be
straightened, reinstalled, and secured in place before
attempting to finally align the body.
In cases of severe or sharp bends, it may be neces-
POINT C
INSIDE OF PILLAR
UPPER CORNER.
LOWER EDGE OF
TACKING STRIP
REINFORCEMENT
AT CENTER LINE
OF N O .
ROOF BOW.
FOUNT A
REAR CORNER OF
FRONT PILLAR AT
FIOOR PLAN.
POINT B
POINT A
POINT C
4130
INSIDE OF CENTER
PILLAR AT
CREASE LINE.
4132
Chapter IBodies
216
POINT F
POINT c
POINT D
EDGE OF
FLANGE EDGE
ROOF PANEL
OF CENTER
FLANGE AT
.PILLAR AT
ROOF RAIL.
ROOF RAIL.
END OF
REINFORCEMENT
ROOF SIDE RAIL
(TACKING STRIP)
POINT
POINT C
CORNER AT
CREASE LINE.
CENTER PILLAR
OUTER
FRONT PILLAR
JOINT LINE
WITH ROOF
X RAIL.'
POINT B
INSIDE OF
TACKING STRIP
RETAINER AT
CREASE LINE.
POINT A
CORNER OF TAB OF RETAINER
WINDLACE TACKING STRIP AT ROCKER PANEL.
POINT A
OUTER CORNER
OF PILLAR
AT ROCKER
PANEL.
4133
POINT D
JOINT EDGE
OF ROOF RAIL
AT QUARTER
PANEL.
POINT C
FLANGE EDGE
PILLAR AT
ROOF RAIL.
PANEL FLANGE
AT ROOF RAIL.
POINT E
CORNER OF
QUARTER
PANEL AT
CREASE LINE.
POINT F
POINT B
POINT A
CORNER OF
CENTER PILLAR
AT CREASE LINE.
POINT B
POINT A
OUTER CORNER
OUTER CORNER
OF CENTER PILLAR
AT ROCKER PANEL. OF CENTER PILLAR
AT ROCKER PANEL.
4136
21?
DAMAGED AREA
OFF READY FOR CUTTING
4137
Fig. 45Damaged Area Ready for Cutting
WHEELHOUSE
4139
4141
Chapter IBodies
218
4144
(f) Hammer the weld below the contours of the surface (fig. 51) not more than V16-inch by using a grooving
dolly.
(g) Metal-finish repaired area and file smooth, taking
care to produce the correct contour.
(h) Grind the welded area clean, and tin.
(i) Fill in with solder (fig. 52), taking care that sufficient
solder is applied so that final metal finish will not have
indentations.
(j) Metal-finish the panel to prepare for painting.
(e) Straighten the cut edge on the panel. Fit the service
panel portion into the cut-out area in the body panel,
being sure they do not overlap. Tack-weld at intervals as
shown in fig. 49, then make a continuous weld around the
two pieces, welding about 6 inches at a time (fig. 50).
Stagger the welds to prevent excessive distortion.
a. Eliminating Rattles.
Most rattles are caused by a loose bolt or screw. All
METAL FINISH TO LEVEL BOTH SURFACES
METAL FINISH
4143
b. Cleaning.
The interior of a car should be regularly cleaned
with a whisk broom or vacuum sweeper. Spots and dirt
can easily be removed from the cloth upholstery with
foam type upholstery cleaner. The inside metal trim
219
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part FOUR
BODIES
Chapter
n
Hardware, Glass, Upholstery, and Flat Trim
Section
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
'
Page
.
i\
This Chapter describes the replacement and adjustmerit procedures for the hardware, glass, front end sheet
metal, upholstery, and trim panel assemblies as listed
in the index above.
Common sense should guide the body man in the replacement of hardware and glass. Until he is experienced,
he should concentrate on how the part was originally
installed. This particularly applies to screws, bolts, rubber weatherstrips, gaskets, etc. Many of the hardware
parts have two or three different lengths or size screws
holding them to the panels. When removing a part, note
the length of the screws, and see that they are installed
again in their original location.
220
224
225
231
234
235
. 238
. 241
220
221
D O O R
HANDLE A
. SSEMBLY_OUTSIDE
SPRING-PUSH BUTTON
WASHERRELEASE PIN
THEORETICAL
RELEASE
PIN SETTING
P I N D O O R HANDLE RELEASE
PAL NUTRELEASE PIN
4078
b. Striker Plate,
Several types of striker plates are used. In order to
obtain proper door lock engagement, the following adjustments are required.
(1) 1949 CARS. The striker plate should be mounted
as far to the inside of the body as it will go. There is
no "in" or "out" adjustment. An "up" or "down"
adjustment is provided, and is only used to maintain
alignment along the top of door in relation to body.
(a) ADJUSTING " U P " OR "DOWN" MOVEMENT. Before
striker plate (fig. 4). The overlap must not be less than
% inch, but can be more provided the door face does
not hit the striker plate when the door is opened or
closed. If the overlap is less than % inch, the striker
OUTSIDE
DOOR HANDLE
4025
Fig. 3-Outside
W F ^
'
4079
222
LOCKING BOLT
SHIM
STRIKER PLATE
ASSEMBLY
LOCK
ROTOR
LOCK ASSEMBLY
4082
LOCKING
BOLT HOUSING
Lower Surface Of Striker Plate.
Fig. 4-Striker
4085
4086
223
4088
e. Door-Lock Replacement.
Although the lock assemblies used on the 1949 and
1950-51 cars differ in construction, the procedure is
basically the same.
(1) REMOVAL. It is not necessary to remove the
door finish strip when replacing the lock. Release the
trim clips and slide the trim panel out of the door finish
strip. Remove the remote control linkage. Remove the
door lock cylinder. To allow clearance to remove the
lock, remove the screw at the lower end of the glass run.
On some early 1949 models the glass run is fastened
with a rivet. Remove the four lock assembly screws.
Move the glass run to one side and lower the lock
assembly out of the door as shown in fig. 10.
(2) INSTALLATION.
Before installing the lock assembly, apply 8L-19586-A lubricant or its equivalent to
all movable parts. Work the lock (with the inside lock
rod attached if working on front doors) into position
REMOTE
CONTROL
LINK
4087
4089
224
behind the glass run. Install the three screws at the face
of the door, then install the screw on the panel to assure
proper alignment of the lock (fig. 11).
Install the screws previously removed from the glass
run. If the glass run was fastened with a rivet, install a
screw, washer, and nut in its place. Install the remote
control linkage. Install the lock cylinder assembly.
Install the trim panel and hardware.
VHCI
70
72
73
73
76
79
1949
1950
A
B
A
B
DOOR...
.55
25
.49.. .22
.55
DOOR25
.49... ...22
DOOR (FRONTl.. 16
.55
.49......19
.63
DOOR (REAR). ...,20
.63... ...15
DOOR- ,
.....62
.55
.49... ...63
....32
.55
DOOR...
.34.. ..-63
4092
Fig. 72Correct Height of Door Inside Locking Button
2. WINDOW REGULATORS
Glass regulator failure is usually due to either lack of
lubricant, or the regulator is out of adjustment causing
the glass to bind in the glass runs. Various adjustments
are provided to maintain proper regulator operation.
Information in this section covers necessary adjustment
DIVISION BAR SCREWS
DIVISION BAR
GLASS REGULATOR
ADJUSTING SCREW
DOOR
HANDLE
LOCK
SCREW
REMOTE CONTROL
ASSEMBLY
a. Removal.
Remove the door trim panel. It is not necessary to
remove the inside finish strip. Remove the spring retainers from the regulator arms, then remove the regulator arm from the glass channel (fig. 14). Lift the glass to
the closed position. The glass can be held in the closed
BUTTON-PUSH ROD LOCK CONTROLVERTICAL PUSH RODLOCK CONTROL
BELL CRANKLOCK CONTROLHORIZONTAL PUSH ROD-LOCK CONTROL.
DOOR
LATCH
SCREWS
REMOTE CONTROL
AND LINK ASSEMBLY
LOWER
GLASS
RUN
SCREW
REGULATOR SCREWS
SPRING RETAINERS
GLASS CHANNEL
4031
4093
b. Installation.
Before installing the regulator assembly, apply 8L19586-A lubricant or its equivalent to all movable parts.
Spread the lower part of the division bar away from
the door inner panel, and raise the regulator assembly
above the division bar lower retaining bracket. Install
the regulator screws, but do not tighten them at this
time (fig. 14). Install the felt washers at each of the
regulator arms. It is important that these felt washers
be*installed, otherwise the arms will rattle in the door.
Lower the glass and attach the glass channel to the
regulator arms. Install the spring retainers at each regu-
225
NOTE: A more specific regulator adjusting procedure for convertibles is described in Chapter HI.
c. Adjustment.
With the glass down, adjust the lower part of the
division bar so the glass does not bind in the glass runs.
Install the division bar lower retaining screws. Raise the
glass, and check thefitalong the top. If necessary, shift
the complete regulator assembly so the glass contacts
evenly, then tighten the four regulators screws (fig. 14).
Lower the door glass to its lowest position. The top
edge of the glass should be even with the top edge of
the outer door panel. If any adjustment is necessary,
loosen the lock nut at the eccentric regulator stop. Turn
the stop until the glass is at its proper height as shown
infig.15. Install the door trim panel and hardware.
CONVERT-
SPRING RETAINERS
GLASS REGULATOR
ASSEMBLY RETAINING
SCREWS
4028
4026
226
DIVISION
BAR
Apply a thin film of liquid soap around the weatherstrip, then insert the glass in the frame. Force the glass
in the frame until it is flush with the upper and lower
ends of the frame. Trim off the excess weatherstrip.
(f) INSTALL VENTILATOR ASSEMBLY. Lubricate all
movable parts with 8L-19586-A lubricant or its equivalent. Position the ventilator assembly in the door. Do
not secure the assembly until the door glass has been
installed as described below.
(g) INSTALL DOOR GLASS. Start the door glass in the
glass runs. Connect the regulator arms to the glass
channel making sure the felt washers are in position on
each regulator arm. Install the spring retainers (fig. 17).
To prevent damaging the reveal moulding or the
paint, use a cord (chalk line) to pull lip of the ventilator
weatherstrip over the reveal moulding as shown in fig. 21.
Install the ventilator assembly retaining screws (fig.
16). Raise the door glass and check for proper fit along
the top edge of the window opening. If the door glass
does not contact evenly, loosen the regulator screws and
shift the regulator assembly to the desired position.
4032
4033
Assembly
4035
227
ADJUSTMENT NUT
Turn counter clockwise to decrease
spring tension. Turn clockwise to
increase spring tension.
4036
Fig. 20Location of Ventilator Adjusting Nut
REMOVAL.
4034
Fig. 22Installing Inner Weatherstrip
Remove the screws securing the ventilator frame assembly to the door (fig. 23). Remove the complete assembly.
(c)
Remove the door glass and frame assembly, see (a) above.
VENTILATOR ASSEMBLY
RETAIN!*
4037
R PAD
4039
228
UPPER PIVOT
HINGE SCREWS-21480
WEATHERSTRIP ASSEMBLY
21448
UPPER PIVOT
ilNGE-22976
RIVET
I 351922-S
1 PIN
1352471-S
%VASHER
22982
21546
/
/
SPRJNG
22986
LOCKING KEY
22920
HANDLE
22916
4038
(fig. 23). Install the door glass and frame, see (a) above.
SPRING RETAINERS
4047
229
ASSEMBLY
4048
4049
PILLARAIGHT
ASSIST STRAP
4060
230
FINISH STRIP
WEATHERSTRIP
LOCK PLATE
4054
PIVOT STOP
THRUST WASHERS
FRICTION WASHER
4052
Fig. 30Club Coupe Quarter Glass Assembly
washers from the lower pivot (fig. 30). Remove the lock
plate and the upper pivot pin. Push the upper part of
the frame and glass assembly out of the finish strip, then
lift the assembly out of the finish strip. Note the locations of the washers on the lower pivot so they can be
installed in their original positions. Pull the weatherstrip out of the channel in the finish strip.
(c) ASSEMBLY. Insert the weatherstrip into the finish
strip channel as shown in fig. 31. Be sure the holes provided for the pivots in the weatherstrip are aligned with
the holes in the finish strip. Place the pivot stop and
thrust washer in position on the lower retaining bracket
(fig. 30). Insert the lower pivot of the glass and frame
assembly into the finish strip.
In order to insert the upper part of the frame assembly
into the finish strip, pull a small portion of the weather-
4053
4055
Fig. 33Positioning Weatherstrip Over Reveal Moulding
231
Place the glass in the quarter window opening. Position the finish strip firmly against the quarter glass and
install the screws. Tighten the screws evenly to assure
proper sealing of the quarter glass. Connect the pillar
light wires, and install the pillar light on the finish strip.
(4) CONVERTIBLE
COUPE. The following procedure covers the removal and installation of the quarter
glass assembly.
(a) REMOVAL. Remove the quarter trim panel. Disconnect the glass regulator arm from the quarter glass
channel (fig. 36). Remove the recess screw plugs at the
face of the quarter pillar. Remove the recess screws.
Swing the quarter glass assembly to the position shown
in fig. 37, then lift the assembly out of the quarter panel.
(b) INSTALLATION. Lubricate the quarter glass hinge
with a light engine oil. Insert the quarter glass in position in the quarter panel (fig. 37). Install the recess
screws. Do not tighten the screws until the quarter glass
adjustments are made. Connect the regulator arm in
the glass channel. Install the trim panel.
a. Windshield Replacement.
The procedure for the replacement of the windshield
is given below.
(1) REMOVAL. Working inside the car, remove the
upper and lower plates from the windshield center retainer. Remove the inner and outer center retainers.
Remove the finish strip. Remove the windshield-wiper
arm. Loosen the inner side of weatherstrip around the
QUARTER GLASS
PILLAg LIGHT
FINISH STRIP
4056
Fig. 34Business Coupe Quarter Glass with Trim Installed
4057
Fig. 35Removing Quarter Glass from Business Coupe
232
REGULATOR ARM
4070
4067
4071
4045
4072
233
4044
Fig. 41 Pulling Draw Cord
4073
4095
4096
Fig. 45Applying Rubber Cement to Rear Glass
4074
4097
234
a. Radiator Grille.
The front stone deflector moulding (fig. 48) does not
connect with the grille assembly, and is easily detached
by removing the retainers located beneath the stone
deflector. To remove the center bars and ornament on
the 1949 grille, remove the right and left-hand parking
light lens frame. On the 1950 and 1951 grille, remove the
parking light extension panel. On the 1949 and 1950
b. Hoods.
Hoods are removed and installed as shown in fig. 50.
If the hood support rod requires replacing, remove the
cotter pin, washer, and spring securing the rod to the
hood lock plate, and remove the rod. The following paragraphs describe the method for making the hood lock
dowel adjustment and the adjustment at the hood hinges.
(1) LOCK DOWEL ADJUSTMENT. Loosen the lock
nut at the top of the dowel. Turn the dowel with a screw
driver until the proper fit is obtained. If the front of the
hood fits too tight or requires slamming to lock the hood,
turn the dowel outward. If the hood has excessive clearance or is loose on the dowel, turn the dowel inward.
Tighten the lock nut after making the adjustments.
(2) HINGE ADJUSTMENT. To make this adjustment, loosen the screws at each hood hinge just enough
to maintain a slight drag on the screws. Lower the hood,
CENTER BRACKET
CENTER FRAME
R.H. UPPER FRAME
L H . UPPER FRAME
L H . CENTER BAR
iBLY
CENTER BAR
ASSEMBLY
4098
ORNAMENT
. RING
CENTER MEDALLION
FRONT STONE
DEFLECTOR MOULDING
4123
235
(1) REMOVAL.
NOTE: It is advisable to remove the handle assentbly when replacing the 1951 lock cylinder (Fig, 52).
Insert the deck lid key into the lock cylinder, and turn
it to the right until the key is in a horizontal position.
With the key in this position, press the lock pin down
with a piece of wire to release the lock cylinder from the
outer shell as shown in fig. 52. Pull oh the key to remove
HOOD LOCKING
PLATE ASSEMBLY
R.H. OPENING
PANEL
R.H. EXTENSION
ASSEMBLY
4211
Fig. 49-fladiator
236
CENTER MOULDING.-16736
SPEED NUT
356752-S
RETAINER-358306-S
A,
EMBLEMS16606
REINFORCEMENT
ASSEMBLY16668
HOOD ASSEMBLY16611
ORNAMENT
16607
SPRING-1692
GUIDE-16927
DOWEL16929
PAD16740
SPRING-16789
BRACKET16930
PANEL ASSEMBLY8162
SPRING^ 16832
SPRING16897
4126
MODEL
LOCKED POSITION
Fig. 51-1949
1949 MODEL
UNLOCKED POSITION
1950 MODEL
UNLOCKED POSITION
4061
4062
237
CLEVIS PINS
REMOTE CONTROL A N D
LINK ASSEMBLY
DECK LID STRIKER P IATE'
STRIKER PLATE SCREWS'
1949-50
1951
Fig. 53Striker Plate Adjustment
4205
4063
238
HANDLE
HANDLE TO DECK LID NUTS (6)
LOCK RETAINER TO
HANDLE SCREWS
LINK
LOCK" GUARD
LOCK ASSEMBLY
Fig. 56-Deck
4065
239
-LOCK ASSEMBLY
4206
4155
HANDLE
4207
HANDLE
4208
SPRING RETAINER
4209
HANDLE
4210
Fig. 67 Door Inside Handle Fig. 62Removing Inside
(7957)
240
VENTILATOR AS
FINISH STRIP
SCREWJS ( 7 )
FINISH STRIP
REST \
ASSIST STRAP
LIGHT
ARM REST
REGULATOR HANDLE
REMOTE HANDLE
ARM REST SCREWS ( 2 )
DOOR TRIM PANEL
TRIM PANEL CORNER SCREWS ( 2 ) .
4154
1949-50
195
Fig. 64Installing Pin in Handle
REGULATOR
HANDLE
4050
241
8- HEADLINING REPLACEMENT
The following headlining removal and installation procedures apply to all models.
a. Removal.
Remove the sun visors. Remove the windshield center
bar and finish strip. If working on a Coupe or a Tudor,
remove the quarter window finish strip. Remove the rear
window. Remove package tray button fasteners.
Pull the headlining loose where it is cemented around
the rear window and windshield. If working on a Tudor
or a Coupe, pull the headlining loose around the quarter
windows. Remove the tacks securing the headlining to
the rear tacking strip. When working on a Fordor remove
the pillar light assembly. Disconnect the pillar light
wire, and tape it to prevent shorting against the
pillar. Insert a screw driver between the windcord and
headlining, and pry the headlining retainer away from
the roof rail about }/i inch. Headlining retainers are used
only over the door openings. Unhook the headlining
from the teeth of the retainers. Check to make sure the
headlining has been loosened around all sides of the
interior. Remove drive nails holding headlining.
Starting at the forward end, pry the headlining support bows out of their retainers on both sides. Remove
FINISH STRIP SCREWS (6)
QUARTER W I N D O W ASSEMBLY
PILLAR LIGHT
ASSIST STRAP
b. Installation.
Before installing the headlining, check the headlining
retainers to make sure they are tightened securely to
the roof rail. Also straighten up any teeth in the retainers
that were bent during the removal of the headlining.
Install the bows in the headlining listings, make sure
each bow is installed in its original location. Starting at
the rear of the body, hook each end of the rear bow into
the retaining hole provided in the roof rail. Install the
remaining bows in their proper sequence spacing the
headlining evenly between the bars as they are installed.
After installing the bows, stretch the headlining at the
front and rear to take up any slack in the material between the bows. Also stretch the material along the
sides to make sure it is properly centered. In some cases,
it may be necessary to cut the ends of the headlining
listings in order to stretch the material tight.
Apply trim cement along the headlining edge of the
windshield header. Allow the cement to set for several
minutes, then pull the headlining over the header. When
pulling the headlining at the header, be sure the first
seam is straight from side to side. Starting at the center,
pull the rear of the headlining down, and tack it to the
rear tacking strip with three ounce tacks. Work toward
the ends until the headlining has been tacked completely
across the rear section (space tacks V/i inches apart).
Do not pull the headlining down too tight so as to
lose the contour at the rear corners. When tacking the
QUARTER GLASS
SEAT BACK
SEAT
4051
PILLAR LIGHT
FINISH STRIP
4056
242
4129
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part FOUR
BODIES
Chapter
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
Van*'.
This chapter describes the operations required to properly maintain and service the various Convertible Coupe,
Station Wagon, and Crestliner features that are not
associated with conventional type passenger cars. Service on Convertible tops is divided into maintenance,
alignment, and replacement operations, and the service
operations on the Crestliner top is limited to maintenance and replacement. The care and replacement of
panels are the special service operations required on
Station Wagons.
243
250
252
255
259
262
263
264
a. Operating Principles.
The power system consists of an electric motor which
drives a hydraulic pump. On the 1949-50 power system,
the hydraulic pump forces a supply of fluid through a
selector valve into a pair of double acting cylinders
located at the sides of each rear quarter panel. On the
1951 power system, the fluid is forced from the hydrau-
243
244
through the lines attached to the lower ends of the cylinders, through the valve, and into the reservoir.
When the top is operated in the "up" direction, the
same action takes place, but the "pressure" channel in
the valve is open to the "lower" lines and the "return"
channel is open to the "upper" lines so that fluid displaced above the pistons can flow into the reservoir.
On the 1951 power system, the pump unit is designed
to operate in two directions. When the top is operated
in the "down" direction, the fluid is forced directly into
the top of the cylinders. When the top is operated in
the "up" direction, the pump unit operates in a "reverse"
direction, thus the fluid is forced back into the reservoir.
The top operating cylinders used with the 1951 power
system are the same used with the 1949-50 system.
(1) MOTOR. The electric motor which provides the
power for the 1949-50 system is similar in construction and operation to a starting motor. This motor is
equipped with a relay similar in appearance to the
starter relay; however, the circuit is different in that the
relay is internally grounded.
The electric motor used on the 1951 power system
is a 6-volt direct current motor. This motor is a sealed
unit and is serviced as a complete assembly.
(2) PUMP. Because of the differences in design, the
description of the 1949-50 pump and the 1951 pump
TO CIRCUIT
BREAKER ., ,
Yellow
4200
Fig.2Convertible Hydraulic and Electrical System (1951)
MOTOR WIRE
FLOW FROM BOTTOM
ELECTRICAL
CONTACT
PRESSURE
STARTER
V RELAY
FLOW TO BOTTOM"
OF CYLINDERS
O F
ELECTRICAL
CONTACT
RETURN LINE TO
RESERVOIR
FLOW TO TOP
OF CYLINDER
LOWERING POSITION
NEUTRAL POSITION
N O FLOW OF FLUID
GROUND
CONTROL VALVE
AND SWITCH
HYDRAULIC MOTOR
FLUID PRESSURE
TO AND FROM
-UPPER PART
OF CYLINDER
LOWER PART
OF CYLINDER
DOUBLE
ACTION
CYLINDER
4OO1
245
(3) TOP OPERATING CYLINDERS, The operating cylinders are of steel tube construction and are fitted
at each end with crimped-in die castings and together
with synthetic rubber seals from a fluid-tight assembly.
The lower casting forms a yoke, which together with a
NUT34064-S (1 required)
LOCK WASHER34937-S7-8 (1 required)
#76 Gauge
Wire Black
CLIP-353262
(wiring to top
mounting screw)
#76 Gauge
WireYellow
\
WIRE ASSEMBLY
51 A-14332-A
(top elevated screw
to circuit breaker)
4005
246
CONTROL VALVE
JD SWITCH ASSEMBLY
BRACKET PRESSURE LINE
AY
RETURN LINE
4004
247
NOTE: These pressure relief valves are not interchangeable. When testing fluid pressure, do not confuse the two pressure specifications.
Adjustment of the pressure relief valve should only
be made if the fluid pressure exceeds the limits specified above. If the fluid pressure is below normal, the
complete hydraulic system should be checked for possible leakage or a faulty unit.
(3) ADJUSTMENT OF CONTROL VALVE CONTROL ROD 1949-50 ONLY). The control rod is adjusted to permit at least Vfc-inch "over-travel" in either
direction to assure good electrical contact in the switch.
This adjustment is made as follows:
Loosen the set screw that secures the control rod at
the control valve. Pull the control knob out at the instrument panel until there is approximately a one-inch
space between the control knob and support bracket
(fig. 5). Holding the control rod in this position with
the control valve switch in the neutral position, tighten
the set screw to lock the control rod in the sleeve.
Connect the battery cable and check the top operation. Before installing the quarter trim panel, check for
leaks at the connections. Operating the top will also
allow the new cylinder to fill itself with fluid.
Install the quarter trim panel seat back, and seat.
248
RETURN LINE
CLEVIS PIN
PIVOT BRACKET
4003
4201
ROTOR ASSEMBLY-8H-7353400
SCREWS-8H-7353408
DIFFUSER CUP-5EH-7353389
GASKET-5EH-7353374-B
BAIL-5EH-7353378
249
VALVE HOUSING
PLUG
MOUNTING BRACKET
PUMP HOUSING
GASKET
SEAL
WASHER
SEAL
RETAINER
BALL
STUD /PLUNGER
CAP SCREW
//GROMMET
SPRING / /
PLUG 1/
SLEEVE
SCREW
ROTOR ASSEMBLY
SLINGER'
MOTOR
ASSEMBLY
DRIVE BALL 4202
HOLDER ASSEMBLY-8H.7353387
FRAME AND FIELD ASSEMBLY-8H-7353343-B
STRAP-5EH-7353386
LOCK WASHER
SOLENOID SWITCH-7EH-7353380
SCREW-27068-S2
LOCK WASHER NUT
THRUST WASHER-8H-7353352
^
ARMATURE ASSEMBLY-8H-7353349
FIBER WASHERS-8H-7353353
PUMP HOUSING
ASSEMBLY-8A-7653395
RUBBER SEAL
j PLUG
811-7353406
PRESSURE RELIEF
-7353410
SCREWS-36976-S2
PORT-8H-7353405
SEALING DISK-8H-7353404
SPRING-8H-7353407
BOTTOM PLATE-8H-73534O9
BAFFLE PLATE-5EH-7353388
SPRING-8H-7353412
WASHERS-8H-7353411
~, ^ PLUG-8H-7353413 NUT
LOCK WASHI
GROUND STUD-8H-735337.
LOCKWASHERS-34803-S2
SCREWS-31596-S2
HEAD-BAND ASSEMBLY-5EH-7353348
4006
250
(7)
Remover07 36-N
PUMP HOUSING
4007
251
4203
NOTE: // the side rails are sagged and the top screw
does not contact the rear control link, it is necessary
to adjust the balance link.
(2) BALANCE LINK ADJUSTMENT. Raise the
top above the windshield until the tension is removed
from the balance link. Place a block between the header
and windshield frame to hold the top in the raised position. On the 1949-50 top, loosen the shoulder bolt at
the lower end of the balance link (fig. 13), allowing the
balance link to slide downward in the slot provided in
the main pivot bracket. On the 1951 top, loosen the
balance link bolt nut (fig. 14). Bend the tab of the
star washer up, then turn the balance link adjusting bolt
to either raise or lower the balance link.
If the balance link does not move in the slot under
its own weight, pull the balance link down by hand
about V4 inch, then tighten the shoulder bolt (1949-50)
or bend down the tab on the star washer, and tighten
the balance link bolt nut (1951). Remove block previously installed under header, and fasten down top.
Check for sag at the front and rear side rails after
BALANCE LINK
FRONT SIDE RAIL ASSEMBLY
QUARTER W I N D O W
STOP SCREW
BALANCE LINK
SHOULDER BOLT
4008
Fig. 11Front and Rear Side Rail Assemblies
(1949-50)
252
BALANCE LINK
a. Weatherstrip Adjustment.
The weatherstrip retainers along the front pillar and
the top side rails are provided with elongated holes to
permit proper fit against the window frame. The weatherstrip can be moved either inward or outward approximately VA inch. To make this adjustment on the 194950 top, use a piece of fibre or a wood block to drive
against the weatherstrip retainer as shown in fig. 17. On
the 1951 top, no weatherstrip retainer is used on the
top side rails. The weatherstrip is adjusted by loosening
the retaining nuts located on the top of the side rails
and shifting the weatherstrip to the desired position.
MOUNTING
SCREWS
STAR WASHER
4204
4199
253
4011
Fig. 77Adjusting
Weatherstrip Retainer to
Fit Against Window Frame
4012
OA-7602636 or 7 on
Fronf Pillar
If the assembly requires raising, place the required
amount of flat washers between the upper division bar
bracket and the flange of the cloor inner panel. Tighten
the screws after adjustment is made.
4O1O
4013
254
UPPER
ST
REGULATOR ASSEMBLY
4014
4016
255
a. Top Removal.
To remove old top, follow procedure given below.
(1) RELEASE QUARTER FLAP. Remove the
quarter window weatherstrip and retainer to release the
fabric from the rear rail. Remove the nut frcftn the lower
glass channel "D" (fig. 28) and remove the quarter flap.
(2) BINDING REMOVAL. Remove the top boot
fastener (352392-S-13) along the body rail binding.
Remove the binding tips (353125-6-S7) from the binding
at the body rail, No. 4 bow and No. 1 bow. Raise the upper
4019
256
4020
257
pad with the back stay cover, and tack the pad to the
No. 4 bow with nine 4-ounce suede tacks ("8B" fig. 27).
Tack the pad to No. 2 and No. 3 bows to hold the
pad in place ("8C" fig. 27).
Position two pieces of 3-inch webbing at the top and
bottom edges of the pad at the No. 4 bow ("9A" fig. 27).
Tack each end of webbing (five 4-ounce suede tack).
Stretch the webbing tight over No. 2 and No. 3 bows
and tack the webbing with three 4-ounce suede tacks
at each bow ("9B" fig. 27).
Tack one piece of webbing to the No. 2 bow over the
center of the pad with five 4-ounce suede tacks. Stretch
webbing tight and tack it to the No. 4 bow then to No. 3
bow with five 4-ounce suede tacks ("9C" fig. 27).
Apply trim cement over the webbings and position
the blue wadding on the webbing in the order shown in
("10" fig. 27). Be sure each piece of blue wadding is
properly located on the webbing.
Pull the lower flap over the wadding and tack the flap
at each end with three 4-ounce suede tacks at each end
4021
Fig. 27Quarter Top Side Pad
258
("11A" fig. 27). Pull top flap over lower flap. Tack each
end with three 4-ounce suede tacks ("B," fig. 27).
Hand-sew both flaps together, using a blind stitch
("11C" fig. 28).
(4) TOP DECK AND QUARTER ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION. Position the top deck and quarter
assembly over the top slats. It is important that the top
deck is properly centered on the top slats. Center marks
are provided on the top deck as well as on the No. 4
and No. 1 bows. The center marking on the top deck
is identified by a small hole through fabric (both ends).
Starting at the center, tack the top of the lower curtain to the center of the No. 4 bow with twenty-two
6-ounce lace tacks ("1A" fig. 28).
Pull the lower edge of the quarter panel down, and
tack it to the body rail tacking strip with eighteen
6-ounce lace tacks ("IB" fig. 28). When tacking the
quarter panel, start at the rear curtain and work toward
the quarter window. Pull the fabric evenly and tight
N0.1
BOW
BACK
RAIL
QUARTER
BUTTON PRESS
FLAP
4022
Fig. 28Top Deck and Quarter Assembly
259
/s"R.
4165
4177
Fig. 30Prying Moulding off Drip Rail
260
4166
Fig. 32Checking Clearance in Drip Rait
(c) REMOVAL OF SPOTS AND STAINS. Stains, grease,
4164
Fi
9- 33Installing
Above
4167
261
4170
4171
4169
262
a. Removal.
Remove the window glass. The rear glass removal
procedure is identical with other models. To assure
proper positioning of the new top material, scribe a line
on the body directly below each seam at the windshield and at the top of the rear window opening.
With a screw driver, pry the rear moulding joint
cover (OA-7051736). Remove the oval head screws
from each end of the rear moulding. Start at one end
and pry the rear moulding off the retainer. Care must
be taken to avoid scratching the body paint. Start at
the forward end of the drip rail and pry the moulding (OA-7051734-5) off the drip rail (fig. 30).
Remove the self-tapping screws and rear retainer
(OA^7051760).
Start at one end and pry the front moulding
(OA-7053716) off the retainer. Remove the self-tapping
screws and the retainers (OA-7053718-9). With a screw
driver, lift one end of the vinyl retainer (M-9791-B)
out of the drip rail trough, then pull the remainder of
the retainer out of the trough With a pair of pliers (fig.
31). Repeat this operation on the opposite side.
Remove the drive nails securing the top material
b. Installation.
If a new pad is required, coat the roof with trim
cement (M-5333-C), and position the new pad on the
roof and around the rear window opening. If the pad
is only slightly torn or out of place, re-cement the pad
in place. Check the clearance inside the drip rail. The
vinyl retainer will not hold the top material in the
trough if the clearance exceeds 0.160 inch. To check
the clearance, slide a gauge through the trough (fig. 32).
If the gauge does not slide through the trough, spread
the drip rail until the correct dimensions are obtained.
If the clearance is excessive, force the drip rail inward
by tapping it with a rubber mallet.
Position the new top material (OA-7053700) on the
roof. Locate the seams of the material with the marks
previously scribed over the rear window opening. Allow
the material to overhang approximately two inches at
the rear. Install two drive nails at each rear seam.
Stretch the material tight between the seams along the
top of the rear window as shown in fig. 33. Locate the
seams at the front with the marks previously scribed
over the windshield. Grasp the material at one of the
seams with trimmers pliers as shown in fig. 34, and
stretch the material until all wrinkles have been removed along the seam. Locate the hole in the roof
panel nearest the seam with a straight pin, and install a
drive nail. An assistant is required to install the drive
nails. Repeat this same operation at the other seam.
Make sure all wrinkles are removed, and the material
is stretched tight across the top of the windshield.
Apply M-5397-A sealer to the underside of the front
4172
4173
263
4176
4174
264
a. Washing.
NOTE: Never wipe the body off with a dust cloth.
This method of cleaning tends to rub dust particles
into the varnish and leaves scratches on the surface.
Flush off all loose dirt and other elements, then with
a sponge and plenty of cold water, wipe off the body
panels and frames. If desired, a mild detergent soap
may be used. Rinse thoroughly with clear water.
After the station wagon has been washed, wipe it
with a damp chamois. A damp chamois may also be
used to clean the inside trim.
Waxing the panels and frames is not recommended.
If wax has been used, it must be completely removed
before the panels and frames can be revarnished. The
preparation and labor required to properly apply the
wax, and the amount of protection received, does not
compare with the added benefits of a coat of varnish.
b. Varnishing.
The most practical means for protecting and maintaining the original luster on the panels and frames is
by periodic varnishing. The finish should be given a
varnish coat whenever it becomes dull or marred.
around each bolt hole and along the top side surfaces
that bear gainst the body shell.
NOTE: The following replacement procedures apply
to the assemblies on both sides of the station wagon.
(1) DOOR FINISHUPPER FRAME ASSEMBLY.
Remove the door inside trim panel. Working through
the access'holes in the inner panel, remove the hex head
bolts from the sleeve nuts around the upper frame. Remove the self-tapping screws under door weatherstrip
along flange of the door, then remove upper frame.
To install, place the upper frame against the door,
and install the hex head bolts. Install the self-tapping
screws along the door flange. Apply additional cement
265
METAL PANEL
WOOD FRAME
'
ATTACHING FLANGE,
WOOD PANEL
4068
266
4076
WOOD STRIPPING
4075
4094
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part FIVE
Maintenance Procedures
Section
1
2
3
4
5
P a g e
Engine Tune-Up
Wheel Alignment . .
Brake Adjustment .
Lubrication
Preventive Maintenance . . .
267
269
274
276
278
..
1. ENGINE TUNE-UP
An engine tune-up operation is intended to restore an
and head nuts to 50-55 foot pounds torque. Tighten the
engine to normal operating condition. It is a corrective
intake and exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 25-30 foot
procedure and not merely a checking procedure. Only
pounds torque.
parts and units influencing engine performance are con(c) CLEAN, ADJUST, AND INSTALL SPARK PLUGS.
sidered when tuning an engine. This includes cylinder
Sandblast the spark plugs, wipe the porcelain clean,
compression, ignition system, fuel system, engine vacuum, file the electrode tips lightly and adjust the spark gap
and combustion analysis. The procedure is made in
(0.029-0.032 inch). Test the plugs in an approved spark
steps which are listed below under headings which
plug tester. Replace any plugs that have broken or
describe the nature of the test or corrective measure.
chipped porcelain, badly burned electrodes or do not
(a) TEST CYLINDER COMPRESSION. Operate the
check satisfactorily on tester. Install spark plugs with
engine until normal operating temperature is reached.
new spark plug gaskets and tighten to 24-30 foot-pounds.
Remove all spark plugs. Set the throttle to the wide
(d) CLEAN AND INSPECT BATTERY CABLES. Remove
open position and leave it open for this test. Test the
cables from battery. Clean battery terminals and cable
compression of each cylinder (fig. 1).
connectors. Inspect battery case for cracks and leaks.
The compression of all cylinders should be uniform
Replace deteriorated connectors and cables with worn
within ten pounds. The cylinder compression tolerance is
insulation. After connecting cables to the battery, cover
plus or minus 10 p.s.i. at the altitudes given below.
the terminals and connectors with a film of petrolatum
to retard further corrosion.
E
ine
Altitudes (feet) Sea Level 1000 2000 4000 6000 8000 10000
Compression (p.s.i.)
120
114 111 103 94 85 78
A reading of more than ten pounds above normal indicates carbon or lead deposits in cylinder.
A reading below normal indicates leakage at the rings,
valves, or gasket.
^ T^MCT^^^^M*
267
'ft-
TEST llT*
f/g. J-Checking Cylinder Compression
268
Manometer
DISTRIBUTOR
HOLDING
CLAMP
VACUUM HOSE
CLAMP
LOCK
SCREW
TORQUE WRENCH
11 T7
SIGHT
DRIVE COUPLING
1119
If the spark is unsatisfactory at all spark plugs, trouble exists in the coil, condenser, rotor, internally in the
distributor, or the external primary circuit.
If the spark is unsatisfactory at some but not all of the
spark plug wires, the trouble is in the wire itself, the wire
is not seated in the housing socket or the terminal housing is shorted.
A quick check on spark intensity can be made with
the engine idling. Disconnect one spark plug lead at a
time and hold it 3/16 inch from the cylinder head. If the
spark jumps this gap regularly, it is satisfactory
POINTER
POSITIVE LEAD
1118
DAMPER
Timing Light
1115
269
TEST ENGINE VACUUM. Check the engine maniTEST SET VACUUM HOSE
TEST FUEL
PUMP
PRESSURE.
Check the
fuel
ADJUST
CARBURETOR
IDLE.
Connect
vacuum
1120
fuel pump bowl and clean the screen. Clean out sediment bowl and reinstall, using a new gasket.
(o)
DISCONNECT WINDSHIELD
WIPER VACUUM HOSE
gauge and correct any leaks at intake manifold, windshield wiper, or distributor lines. Set the idle speed at
475 to 500 r.p.m. (425 r.p.m. on cars equipped with
automatic transmission). Set the idle fuel adjustment to
the point of highest engine r.p.m. Reset the idle speed
if required.
NOTE: / / the mixture is too rich when the idle fuel
adjustment is all the way in, either the throttle body is
dirty or the idle adjustment screw is not seating.
(r)
2. WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Front wheel alignment involves all the factors affecting the running and steering of the front wheels. All of
these factors must be considered when checking and
adjusting wheel alignment. For this reason, it is essential
that a definite checking procedure, such as outlined in
"a. Checking Procedure," be followed. The correction of
LIFT IGNITION WIRE CLEAR WITH CLAMP
AND DETERMINE MAXIMUM SPARK AVAILABLE
ARK HERE
GAP ADJUSTMENT
CALIBRATED IN KILOVOLTS
a. Checking Procedure.
Different makes of equipment may be used for checking the factors of wheel alignment provided the results
obtained are accurate. The illustrations in this section
show one type of portable equipment which can be used.
It is essential that wheel alignment checking be perPRESSURE SCALE 0 TO 5 POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH
VACUUM SCALE
HOSE
0 TO 3 0 " MERCURY
VACUUM TEST
ATTACH
CORRECT
ADAPTER
SPARK PLUG
GROUND LEAD
CONNECTED TO ENGINE
1127
CARBURETOR
DISCONNECT CARBURETOR FUEL
LINE FROM FUEL PUMP
CARBURETOR
FUEL PUMI
DISCONNECT FUEL LINE FROM
FUEL PUMP TO GAS TANK
1121
270
fLOAT
HPSO1*
9505-A
CARBURETOR
AIR H O R N
2372
Fig. 11Checking
Spindle
Bushings
wheels off the floor. Grasp the wheels at each side and
push in and pull out. If any free play is noticed adjust
the wheel bearings.
(5) CHECK SPINDLE BUSHINGS. With the front
wheels off the floor, grasp the wheel at top and bottom
(fig. 11) and shake it, observing the movement of the
brake plate. If the brake plate has more than %2 * n c n
movement, rebush the spindle.
(6) CHECK LINKAGE. Grasp the front of the
front wheels, push them away from each other then pull
them toward each other, observing the spindle connect-
2374
ALIGNMENT MARKS
2371
271
Raise the front wheels off the floor. Install the gauge on
the gauge holder spindle with the "+" side of the camber
scale toward the wheel (fig. 13).
Rotate the wheel slowly and observe the range of
movement of the pointer on the scale. This indicates the
amount of wheel wobble or run-out. If the wheel wobble
or run-out is in excess of Vs inch replace the wheel, or
install it on the rear. If the run-out is not excessive, stop
the wheel at the point where the pointer is in the exact
center of the total pointer movement.
Place a pedal jack on the brake pedal, adjust it to
2375
firmly apply the brakes, or turn one brake cam adjustment tight to hold the wheel in this position.
CAUTION: Make sure the gauge holder rods will
clear the floor before lowering the wheels.
Turn the wheels to the straight ahead position by
aligning the pencil marks on the steering wheel hub and
steering column tube (fig. 10). Lower the weight of the
car on the front wheels, and read and record the camber
on the camber scale (fig. 14). Repeat the operation on
the other wheel. If the camber is incorrect, check the king
pin side inclination. If the camber angle is within the
limits, omit the king pin inclination procedure.
(10) CHECK KING PIN INCLINATION. When
checking king pin inclination and caster, it is necessary
2376
2299
Fig. ?3-Checking Parallel Plane of Wheel
272
2378
Fig. 17Measuring 20 degrees Inward Turn
2377
Fig. 16Measuring 20 degrees Outward Turn
2379
273
SCALE
2273
rear of the front axle with both pendant chains just touching the floor. Read the scale, pointer will register toe.
b. Correction of Factors.
2380
Fig. 19Front Plumb Bob in Alignment with Rear Mark
of the plumb bob with the floor mark. Turn the knob on
the gauge until the zero (0) on the caster scale is in line
with the pointer. Raise the wheels clear of thefloor,and
turn them until the rear plumb bob is in line with the
front mark on the floor (fig. 20). Lower the wheels, and
correct any misalignment with the mark on the floor.
Read and record caster angle then remove pedal jack.
(12) CHECK TOE. Push the vehicle backwards
approximately six feet, and then pull the vehicle forward
about three feet. Place a telescope type toe-in gauge
between the wheels at the front with the ends of the
gauge bearing against the side walls of the tires and both
pendant chain ends just touching the floor (fig. 21). Set
the scale so the pointer registers zero ( 0 ) . Pull the car
forward until the gauge is brought into position to the
2381
2307
274
3. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
Brake adjustments are divided into the two classifications, minor adjustment, and major adjustment. The need
for a minor adjustment is usually determined by the lack
of correct brake pedal reserve.
A major brake adjustment is recommended when new
shoes are installed, when brakes are relined, or when the
minor adjustment does not give satisfactory brake operation.
SHORTEN L. H. ROD TO DECREASE TOE-IN
LENGTHEN R. H. ROD TO INCREASE TOE-IN
ADJUST BOTH
RODS EQUALLY
2306
2274
275
276
a. Minor Adjustment.
b. Major Adjustment.
4. LUBRICATION
The importance of proper lubrication cannot be overstressed. Proper lubrication means the application of the
correct lubricant, at the right place, and at the right time.
The numerals infigure25 indicate the units of the vehicle
that require periodic lubrication. Information on the
type of lubricant required for each particular unit and
the method of application is given below.
The units which do not require periodic lubrication are
listed under that heading, "b. Oil Changes" outlines the
recommendations on oil changes. Units which require
periodic lubrication are listed in "c.1000 Mile Lubrication," "d. 5000 Mile Lubrication," and "e. 10,000 Mile
Lubrication."
2327
Fig. 26Clutch Release
Equalizer Felt Washers
and Yoke Rod
STEERING
COLUMN
CLEVIS
SHIFTRODS
2326
Fig. 27-GearshiHRod
Ends and Levers
b. Oil Changes.
The crankcase should be drained and refilled with four
(4) quarts of new oil four times each year, every 2000
miles, or when oil is diluted or polluted.
If the vehicle is new or the engine has been overhauled, the engine oil should be changed after the first
300 miles of operation.
One can of oil aid (1A-19511) should be added to the
crankcase of all new or overhauled engines. The same
quantity of oil aid should be added at the 300 mile
change and also at the change immediately following.
When changing engine oil, use 20W oil for temperatures above +32 F.; 10W for temperatures from +32 F.
to 10F.; 5W for sustained temperatures below 10F.
For normal operation, regular or premium oils are satisfactory. Under abnormal operating conditions, heavy
duty oils are recommended.
NOTE: If a new oil filter element is installed, five
(5) quarts of oil are needed to fill the crankcase.
c. 1000-Mile Lubrication.
The locations of the parts to be lubricated are identified
in figure 25 by numbers which correspond to the numbers of the following items.
(1) CLUTCH RELEASE EQUALIZER BAR. Spray
2328
Fig. 28Door Hinges,
Striker Plates, and
Dovetails
2329
Fig. 29C/fch and
Brake Pedals
277
Section 4Lubrication
2330
2331
.1
OIL BATH TYPE
DRY TYPE
2332
d. 5000-Mile Lubrication.
At 5,000 mile periods, perform the "1,000-Mile Lubrication Service" plus the following lubrication operations.
The number preceding each operation corresponds to
the number used in fig. 25 to show location of unit.
(21) CONVERTIBLE TOP. Replenish the fluid \n
the convertible top hydraulic lift reservoir (fig. 39).
(22) CONVERTIBLE TOP LINKAGE. Apply dripless penetrating oil to all pivot points of the top linkage.
(23) BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER. Replenish the
fluid, (fig. 29).
2333
2334
278
Fig. 35Distributor
2335
2336
Fig.
36Transmission
(24) OIL FILTER CARTRIDGE. Install new cartridge when dipstick shows dirty oil on every 4000 to
5000 miles (fig. 39).
(25) DISTRIBUTOR CAM. Lubricate with a light
coating of M-4601 distributor grease (fig. 35). Remove
excess grease.
e. 10,000-Mile Lubrication.
At 10,000 mile periods, perform the "1,000-mile Lubrication" service, the "5,000-mile Lubrication" service, and
the following lubrication operations. The number preceding each operation corresponds to the number used
in figure 25 to show the location of the unit.
(26) PARKING BRAKE CONTROL HANDLE.
Lubricate the shaft of the control handle with white
waterproof grease.
(27) PARKING BRAKE CABLES. Lubricate with
graphite grease.
(28) UNIVERSAL JOINTS. Repack with universal
2351
5. PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
Lubrication and inspection, plus the adjustments or
repairs indicated by the inspections, will maintain the
performance of a vehicle at rjeak efficiency. It is desirable to perform operations that prepare the vehicle for
the approaching seasons, twice yearly, or at least every
5000 miles under normal operating conditions.
2337
2338
f i g . 38Spindle Bolts
2352
2353
279
280
Remove, disassemble, and clean the carburetor, including the removal of carbon deposits from the throttle
barrel. Make repairs and replacements as required. Set
the float level, assemble, and install the carburetor.
Adjust carburetor idle. Set the idle speed. Set the idle
fuel adjustment to the point of highest engine r.p.m. Reset
the idle speed adjustment if required.
(31) FUEL PUMP. Check the fuel pump as follows:
Clean fuel pump sediment bowl. Install the fuel pump
bowl. Check the fuel pump vacuum. If the vacuum is less
than 10 inches, repair or replace the pump.
Check fuel pump pressure. If reading is not within 4-5
lbs. (3V2 x 4V2 lbs. 8 cyl.) repair or replace fuel pump.
(32) TEST ENGINE VACUUM. Connect the vacuum gauge and check vacuum at engine idle speed. If
the vacuum is lower than normal (18 to 21 inches
mercury), correct any vacuum leaks at the intake manifold, windshield wiper, distributor, or other vacuum lines.
(33) ANALYZE ENGINE COMBUSTION. Test the
engine combustion air-fuel ratio and accelerating pump
operation as a check on work performed.
(34) WHEEL BEARINGS. Check front wheel bearings. If any free play is noticed, adjust the wheel bearings.
(35) SPINDLE BUSHINGS. Check front wheel
spindle bushings. If excessive movement is noticed,
rebush the spindles.
'Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.
Part FIVE
Trouble Shooting
Section
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Page
Power Plant
'..-.-.
Suspension, Steering Gear, and Tire Wear
Brakes . . .
Electrical and Instruments . . .
Accessories
Power Train
Door Locks .
,
...
281
291
292
292
302
306
306
1. POWER PLANT
The various factors controlling efficient power plant
operation are outlined in this section and are identified
below under headings as follows: "a. Engine", "b. Fuel
System", "c. Ignition System", and "d. Cooling System".
In some symptoms you will find a heading "Preliminary Instructions". The information contained under this
heading points out some of the causes which can be
readily observed and eliminated.
.
a. H-ngllie.
Poor engine performance can be attributed to the engine or to forces on the vehicle that tend to retard its
motion. Dragging brakes or misaligned wheels cause the
engine to work harder and poor engine performance
results.
Engine performance depends on proper fuel distribution, correctly timed ignition, normal uniform compression, properly regulated flow of fuel air mixture to the
cylinders, and unobstructed flow of exhaust gases.
Engine trouble symptoms are discussed under the following headings with instructions of what to do to satisfy
the above conditions and regain good engine performance.
(1) ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL
POWER (TOP SPEED AND/OR ACCELERATION
LOW). If the engine does not develop full power, has
a low top speed, or slow acceleration, it is advisable to
perform a complete engine tune-up. In most cases this
will correct the trouble and will eliminate much of the
following procedure. If the tune-up was performed by
someone else, or if it did not correct the trouble, proceed
a s follows, omitting consideration of such factors that
a r e known to be right.
( a ) PROCEDURE. A diagnosis of the compression, the
ignition, and the fuel system should be made in sequence
according to the trouble shooting map infig.1.
(1) ANALYZE THE COMBUSTION. If possible, analyze
the combustion while the owner is present so that he
may observe the results of the test. Test the air-fuel
ratio and accelerating pump operation. If the carburetor
281
282
COMPRESSION
COMPRESSION
LOW
HIGH
< 1 SQUIRT O H M
CYIMDERS
AND RECHECK
COMPRESSION
FUEL SYSTEM
0. K.
IGNITION
NOT 0 . K.
FRFF UP V/UVFf
COMPRESSION
NORMAL
LOW
PISTON
RMGS OR
CYIMDERS
1
IGNITION
0. K.
COMPRESSION
< 1 REPAIR
f
COMPRESSION
NORMAL
1 REPAIR
IGNITION
FUEL SYSTEM
N O T O . K.
ROAD TEST
VEHICLE
TROUBLE
OVER
CONDITION EXISTS
NON-STANDARD
AXLE RATIO
INSTALL
CORRECT AXLE
NON-STANDARD
NON-STANDARD
MISALIGNMENT
RESTRICTED
BRAKES
TIRE SIZE
OF FRONT WHEELS
EXHAUST SYSTEM
DRAGGING
SPEEDOMETER
RATIO
+CORRECT
SPEEDOMETER
GEAR RATIO
EQUIP VEHICLE
WITH CORRECT
TIRE SIZE
ALIGN
WHEELS
REMOVE
RESTRICTION
ADJUST
BRAKES
ROAD TEST
VEHICLE
TROUBLE
OVER
CONDITION EXISTS
DISASSEMBLE ENGINE AS
NECESSARY FOR INSPECTION
CAMSHAFT OUT
INCORRECT VALVE
OF TIME
CLEARANCE
CYLINDER BLOCK
VALVE SEAT
OR HEAD CRACKED
RUNOUT EXCEEDS
OR DISTORTED
.005
i ADJUST
TAPPETS
< 1 REPAIR OR
REPLACE
< 1 GRIND
VALVES
ROAD TEST
VEHICLE
1699
is still below normal after completing the above procedure, check for additional possible causes listed below.
(1) BRAKES DRAGGING WHEN HOT. Make sure the
brake pedal has the necessary free travel and the brake
master cylinder vent is not obstructed.
(2) EXCESSIVE EXHAUST BACK PRESSURE. If it is SUS-
283
clearance resulting in the valves opening late and closing early will result in loss of power, poor performance,
and noise. Check the valve clearance.
284
and coil are in good working order, check the fuel system,
(b) CHECK FUEL SYSTEM. Check the fuel system
for overall operation with a combustion analyzer.
(1) FAULTY UNITS IN FUEL SYSTEM. Make corrections to the carburetor, fuel pump, or fuel lines.
(2)
The procedure for doing this varies according to the type of carburetor used on the engine.
(a) Fuel Supply to Carburetor. On the 8-cylinder
engine remove a drain plug from the carburetor float
chamber. If gasoline runs from the drain it indicates fuel
is being delivered to the carburetor. On the 6-cylinder
engine, remove the carburetor air cleaner and observe
if a spray of gasoline is coming from the accelerator pump
spray nozzle (located inside of the air throat of the carburetor) each time the throttle is fully opened. If a spray
is observed, fuel is being delivered to the carburetor.
(b) Fuel Not Reaching Carburetor. If no gasoline
is observed at the drain on the 8-cylinder or at the pump
discharge nozzle on the 6 cylinder, fuel is not reaching
the carburetor. Check sediment bowl for water, clean
out fuel lines, and inspect fuel pump.
CARBURETOR.
TRGUBLE
O V E R
TROUBLE OVER
1714
Fig. 2Engine Misfires At High SpeedRoad Map
wire from any spark plug and hold the wire terminal
%6-inch from the cylinder head while the engine is being
cranked. If a spark does not jump this gap, the ignition
is at fault, follow the procedure for the symptom under
the heading "c. Ignition System" that applies to your case.
(7) ENGINE MISFIRES ON FAST ACCELERATION OR HARD PULL. The most probable cause for
misfiring on fast acceleration or hard pull is the ignition.
(a) PROCEDURE. Check spark intensity at the spark
plugs, accelerating pump action, and fuel level in carburetor float chamber.
NOTE: On cars equipped with overdrive: If the engine cuts out when the "kickdown" switch is engaged,
follow procedure in "Accessories" under the heading
"Use of Kickdown Cuts Out Engine".
(1)
b. Fuel System.
The fuel system consists of a tank, pump, carburetor,
manifold, and the various connecting lines. Dirt and
other foreign materials should be kept from entering
this system as they clog lines and cause carburetor valves
to leak or stick. As a rule the carburetor does not fail
suddenly but progressively impairs engine performance.
Fuel pump trouble is most commonly traced to incorrect
285
286
fuel consumption is found to be higher than normal, accelerate the engine with the brakes partially applied to
slow down the car. If a ping is not heard, it indicates the
ignition timing is late. Adjust the timing.
NOTE: If the above procedure has not corrected
the excessive fuel consumption proceed as follows
omitting operations that have been performed.
(4) CLEAN AIR CLEANER. Clean the filter element
(2)
not
be
drain plug and drain any accumulation of water or sediment from the tank. In freezing weather, water in the fuel
tank will freeze and may prevent fuel from entering the
fuel line. Drain tank at room temperature.
(3) CHECK FUEL PUMP. Remove the fuel line between the pump and the carburetor. Blow through the
line to make sure it is not clogged. With the ignition
switch OFF, crank the engine with the starter. If a free
flow of fuel is not evident, the fuel pump is faulty and
must be repaired or replaced. If the fuel pump and the
fuel line are found satisfactory, it indicates an obstruction in the carburetor. Remove the carburetor and clean
the carburetor float valve mechanism.
287
c. Ignition System.
The ignition system is composed of a primary and a
secondary circuit. The battery, ignition switch, primary
coil, distributor points, and condenser are in the primary
circuit. The secondary coil, rotor, distributor cap, and
spark plugs compose the secondary circuit. Each part is
discussed in the trouble symptoms below.
(1) NO SPARK AT ANY SPARK PLUG WIRE.
This indicates trouble in the primary circuit or the high
tension wire between the*coil and the distributor/
(a) PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. Turn the ignition
switch on. Hold the end of one spark plug wire 3/16 inch
from the cylinder head while the engine is being cranked.
Repeat this procedure in turn at each spark plug wire.
If none of the spark plug wires produce a spark this
symptom applies. If a spark jumps the gap from any one
or several wires, this symptom does not apply.
When no spark is being delivered at any of the spark
plug wires, the engine will not run, and it is evident that
something is wrong with the circuit. The following procedure is designed to quickly locate the immediate cause
of trouble, so that the engine can be started.
Schematic drawings of the ignition circuits are shown
in figs. 3 and 4. The numbers appearing in these drawings establish the locations of units in the circuits.
EXAMPLE: In the following instructions and in the
drawings, 0 refers to the coil terminal of the ignition
switch to coil wire.
(b) PROCEDURE. Check for good connections and
firmly seated terminals, then continue as follows:
(1)
CHECK COIL TO DISTRIBUTOR HIGH TENSION
WIRE. Replace the coil to distributor high tension wire if
288
<sf
1129
Fig. 36-Cylinder Ignition
(4) WEAK
289
290
Hot
Unit
Ignition switch
Ignition coil (primary) . . . . . .
0.02 ohms
1.31 ohms
0.02 ohms
1.15 ohms
d. Cooling System.
The cooling system is thermostatically controlled to
regulate engine operating temperature and provide for
a short engine warm-up period. This system fails to cool
the engine sufficiently when the supply of coolant is low,
circulation is stopped due to blocked passages, deposits
of lime and rust prevent heat transfer through the water
jacket walls, thermostats stuck in the closed position, or
that control the cooling of the engine are designed to provide a liberal margin of safety. In most cases correction or
adjustment of these controls will re-establish adequate
cooling.
(1) PROPER DRIVING. Mountain driving requires operation through whatever transmission gear ratio is required to keep the engine from lugging. By using the
higher ratios, the engine speed and consequently the fan
speed and water circulation are increased, thus providing
adequate cooling.
(2) ANTI-FREEZE To prevent loss of coolant due to
evaporation a permanent type anti-freeze may be used.
This raises the boiling point of the coolant and eliminates
overheating attributable to loss of coolant.
(b) PROCEDURE. Check for leakage and operation of
parts as outlined below:
(1) CORRECT EXTERNAL LEAKAGE. Fill the Cooling
system and idle the engine. Inspect all hose and hose
connections for leakage. Tighten connections or replace
hose as required. Inspect the radiator cap for tightness
and note the condition of the gasket. If leakage is observed at the cylinder head gaskets, replace the gaskets
(including remove carbon). Inspect the radiator for leakage, and repair or replace if required. Rust spots or wet
spots on the radiator core are an indication of radiator
leakage even though there is no dripping.
(2) ADJUST THE FAN AND WATER PUMP BELTS. A d -
291
(1) LIME DEPOSITS. If the engine continues to overheat, remove the cylinder heads and inspect the water
openings in the cylinder heads and cylinder block for
excessive lime deposits. If excessive lime deposits are
present, the cylinder block and heads must be replaced
as flushing will not remove lime deposits.
NOTE: Excessive deposits of lime are the result of
using hard water having a high mineral content in the
cooling system. Use soft water.
(2) ENGINE FAILS TO REACH NORMAL
OPERATING TEMPERATURE. This symptom is
caused by incorrect temperature gauge readings or
thermostats leaking.
(a) PRELIMINARY INSTRUCTIONS. With the ignition
OFF, the temperature gauge should read HOT. Turn the
ignition ON. If the gauge now reads COLD, proceed with
(b). If the gauge still reads HOT, the temperature gauge
circuit is open.
(b) PROCEDURE. Start the engine and allow it to idle.
Cover the front of the radiator core until the engine temperature is at least normal. If the gauge still reads COLD,
the sending unit is at fault.
(1) GAUGE NOT AT FAULT. If the gauge is not at
fault, remove and test the thermostats.
(2) THERMOSTATS NOT AT FAULT. If the thermostats
are in good condition but the engine still fails to reach
operating temperature or fails to heat in reasonable time,
the exhaust thermostat valve may be faulty. Remove and
inspect valve. Replace it if not in good condition.
292
BRAKES
LOCK DURING
VEHICLE
OPERATION.
you must still find out why the unit failed. The trouble
shooting procedures given here will aid you in making a
correct diagnosis. When a trouble is diagnosed correctly,
293
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34'
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
Tire pressure
Tight spindle bearings
Loose spindle bearings
Loose connecting rod ends and connections
Broken spring tie bolts
Tire overload
Broken spring
Loose steering gear mountings
Wheel balance
Steering gear bind
Caster low
Bent spindle
Camber plus side inclination unequal
Toe-in too great
Radial run-out
Lateral run-out
Unequal brake adjustment
Bent spindle arm
Camber low
Caster high
Caster uneven
Camber plus side inclination high
Camber plus side inclination low
Steering gear off center
Spring sag
Loose or worn shock absorber
Cupped tires
Over-size tires
Unequal tire diameter
Bent rear axle housing
Bent frame
Dragging brakes
Camber high
Camber uneven
Tight wheel bearings
Loose wheel bearings
Toe-in too little
Loose or worn stabilizer
Not tracking
Rear axle toe-in
Rear axle toe-out
Rear axle camber
Out-of-round brake drum
Bent steering arm
1
6
14
13
5
11
2
1
10
11
16
12
13
8
6
1
3
2
4
6
5
1
8
8
5
9
7
2
3
5
6
4
N
Looseness and
noise
1
4
3
5
5
3
4
2
4
14
9
1
2
4
6
6
4
14
1
2
Tire squeal on
turns
Erratic steering
when braking
5
7
1
2
Hard steering
Loose steering
Shimmy
Jerky steering
Rood sway
Tire wear
Factors
Cupped tires
Wheel tramp
Wander
Symptoms
3
9
7
2
4
3
2
11
9
2
3
10
15
3
5
6
7
4
5
8
9
3
13
5
5
4
4
5
1
10
12
10
4
10
11
5
2
7
7
15
19
3
4
6
'
2
11
12
15
7
4
3
9
16
17
18
2
10
6
294
a. Generating System.
Three "symptoms" or end results of all the various
causes or troubles are possible in the generating system.
These symptoms may not be described correctly to you
by the owner of the vehicle so you must first determine
the correct symptom by testing or by analyzing the indications given to you by the owner. Once you have confirmed the symptom you can immediately begin to isolate
the cause by following the road map that illustrates the
procedure in outline form.
Table 2 lists the three symptoms and the various causes
of trouble. The order of the numbers in each symptom
column indicates either the most probable cause of the
symptom or the cause which is easiest to eliminate by
testing.
The Trouble Shooting Table gives more detailed information on the various causes of the symptom than the
road map (Fig. 5.). The road map of the particular
symptom groups several of these details into a single test,
however, the results of the test indicate which particular
trouble is the one causing the symptom. The letters and
numbers in the body of the road map refer to headings
in the Trouble Shooting write-up.
The symptoms used as headings for the procedures
and have been arranged in the following order: "(1)
Battery Low In Charge", "(2) Generator Output Low",
and "(3) High Charging Rate".
(1) BATTERY
it may have been the cause of the "Battery Low" symptom. If battery tests OK, proceed as follows:
(b) CHECK GENERATOR OUTPUT. Test the generator
output to determine if the generator is at fault. If the
output reaches or is greater than the rating of the generator for the generator under test, proceed with (2)
below. If the output is less than rated amperes, follow
the procedure outlined in (1) below.
(1)
out-
Symptoms
Causes
(1)
(2)
lattery
Lew in Charge
I*
20
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
12
1
2
11
13
14
(3)
1
2
3
4
5
6
9
7
8
1
2
15
16
17
18
19
295
NOTE: Most of the trouble causing excessive resistonce in the external circuit will be found in this portion of the circjuit.
( a ) 1 REGULATOR
NOT O.K.
REGULATOR O.K
ADJUST, REPAIR,
OR REPLACE
FAULTY UNIT
CHECK EXTERNAL
CIRCUIT
RESISTANCE
NORMAL
(2)
EXCESSIVE
TROUBLE
OVER
BATTERY RUN
D O W N FROM
EXCESSIVE OR
UNUSUAL DRAIN
TROUBLE
OVER
3602
296
erator frame ventilating slots to determine if the commutator is oily or dirty. If dirt or oil is present, the
Carbon Tetrachloride will momentarily dissolve the
dirt or oil on the commutator and permit the brushes to
make better electrical contact. Test the generator output. If the output is now normal, proceed with (1). If the
output is still less than rated, proceed with (2).
(1) OUTPUT NOW NORMAL. If the output now
reaches rated amperes, the commutator is oily or dirty.
Remove the generator from the car and disassemble it.
Clean the commutator surface with fine sandpaper (not
emery cloth or emery paper) and scrape out the slots
between the commutator segments to remove dirt and
carbon particles. If necessary, turn down the commutator
in a lathe and undercut the mica. Reassemble the generator and install it. Adjust generator belt tension.
(2) OUTPUT STILL LESS THAN NORMAL. If the OUtput is still less than normal, perform the electrical tests
of the generator on the vehicle, as illustrated in fig. 7,
to determine the exact part of the generator causing
trouble. If the field checks short or open, follow (a). If
the armature checks short or open follow (b). If the
brushes are high resistant or shorted, follow (c).
move the regulator cover and depress the voltage regulator armature to see if the contacts are stuck and will
PERFORM ELECTRICAL
TESTS O N GENERATOR
4 H# REPAIR OR
( b ) ARMATURE
OPEN OR SHORT
4 H t f - REPAIR OR
REPLACE
ARMATURE
REPLACE FIELD
TROUBLE
OVIR
TROUBLE
() BRUSHES HIGH
RESISTANT OR SHORT
< H REPAIR OR
REPLACE
BRUSHES
OR BRUSH
HOLDERS
~ BATTERY
1r
TROUBLE
OVER
GENERATOR
3603
REGULATOR
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
3604
Symptoms
Causes
0)
(2)
(3)
Engine Cranks Slowly
b. Starting System.
297
2
3
4
6
7
8
9
1
2
5
6
7
8
11
1
2
1
10
3
4
5
9
298
will not crank the engine, see "(2) Starting Motor Spins".
(a) Relay Does Not Click. Connect a ground
jumper to the starter button terminal (fig. 8, connection marked ). If the engine cranks, replace the
starter button. If the engine does not crank, connect the
ground jumper to the starter button terminal of the
relay (fig. 8, connection marked ). If the engine
now cranks, replace the relay-to-starter-button wire. If
the engine still does not crank, replace the starter relay.
QQQIOOQ
I STARTING*?
MOTOR
X*CH
CHECK
TOM (2)
STARTER
RELAY
BUTTON
INOPERATIVE
INOPERATIVE
L+-
BROKEN
WIRES
TROUBLI
OVIR
mount
ovm
, * LIGHT SPARK
(g) OR N O SPARK
JUMPER WIRE
"
MOTORt
STARTER
BUTTON
\*'
36O7
HEAVY SPARK
ENGINE
CRANKS
DOES NOT
CRANK
REPAIR 0>1R ^ 1
REPLACE
STARTING3
1*
MOTOR
TROUBLI OVIR
TROUBLI
OVIR
'D^4
REPLACE HEAL
GASKETS OR
REPAIR LEAKS
TI
DOES N O T
CRANK
TROUU.I
OVIR
.CHECK FOR
LOCKED
STARTER DRIVE
TROUBLI OVIR
>
(b)
REPLACE
RELAY
, REMOVE SPARK
PLUGS AND
CRANK ENGINE
CLEAN,
CONNECTIONS
OR REPLACE CABLES
ENGINE
CRANKS
3INE
KNKS
TROUBLE
OVIR
OBSERVE.
SPARKING
REPAIR - # -
STARTING
CONNECT JUMPER
ACROSS RELAY
TERMINALS
RELAY
CONTROL CIRCUIT
DRIVE
LOCKED
TO CHARGE
INDICATOR
3615
TO OTHER CIRCUITS
DRIVE O.K.
TEST STARTING MOTOR
MOTOR O.K.
MOTOR
FAULTY
REPAIR OR
REPLACE
I
MOTOR
ENGINE PARTS
TROUBLI OVIR
SEIZED. REPAIR
OR REPLACE
FAULTY PARTS
3606
299
I ( 2 ) BATTERY O.K. |
TEST EXTERNAL
CIRCUIT VOLTAGE DROP
RECHARGE OR
REPLACE BATTERY
TROUBLE
OVIR
(fc) VOLTAGE
DROP NORMAL
( a ) VOLTAGE
DROP EXCESSIVE
CRANKING CURRENT
NORMAL OR HIGH
TIOUBLE
OVIR
(]) CRANKING
CURRENT LOW
REPAIR OR REPLACE 1
STARTING MOTOR
T TROUBLI
*
OVIR
( b ) NO LOAD CURRENT
~" WITHIN LIMITS
( a ) NO LOAD CURRENT
~ HIGH OR LOW
REPAIR OR REPLACE
STARTING MOTOR -
ENGINE FRICTION
EXCESSIVE. DETERMINE'
CAUSE AND REPAIR
ir
TROUBLI
OVIR
IT
TROUBLI
OVIR
3609
300
but not all of the instruments register, follow the procedure under (6) through (9) below.
Lights Light. If pillar (or head) lights light, the battery, cables, circuit-to-overload circuit breaker and the
circuit breaker are OK.
Lights Do Not Light. If the lights do not light, the
battery cable is loose, the main feed wire is disconnected
at the switch or headlight loom, or the wire is broken.
(1) HEADLIGHTS FLICKER FROM BRIGHT
TO DIM. If all lights flicker from bright to very dim,
the overload circuit breaker is operating as a result of a
grounded or shorted wire in that particular circuit. Set
the headlight switch to headlight position. Observe the
reaction as you switch from high to low beam with the
beam control switch. Follow (a), (b), or (c) below,
whichever applies. If the lightsflickerwhen on low beam,
the short is in that circuit, likewise, the short is in the
high beam circuit if the high beam lights are on.
(a) UPPER BEAM ONLY FLICKERS. If the lights flicker
301
Voltage at Source
6.1
6.5
6.9 . .
7.3
7.7
81
:
.
.
3300
1425
.. 645
322
160
87
302
Turn on the switch. Observe the gas and oil dash units.
If they are inoperative, correct the power supply circuit
from the ignition switch to the dash instruments. If the
gas and oil dash units are operative, see (1) below.
(1) Momentarily short the wire leading from the dash
unit to the engine unit at the dash unit terminal. If the
indicator remains at the "H" position, replace the dash
unit. If the indicator moves toward the 'C" position, an
open circuit is indicated, see (2) below.
(2) Disconnect the wire leading from the dash unit at
the thermal switch unit. Turn on the switch. Momentarily short the wire. If the indicator remains at the "H"
position, an open circuit exists in the wire leading from
the dash unit to the engine unit. Repair or replace the
wire. If the indicator moves toward the "C" position,
follow the procedure under (3) below.
(3) Turn on the switch. Momentarily ground the
thermal switch unit terminal leading to the sending unit.
If the indicator remains at the "H" position, the thermal
switch unit is defective, replace the unit. If the indicator
moves toward the "C" position, see (4) below.
(4) With the switch ON, momentarily short the terminal of the sending unit. If the indicator remains at
the "H" position, the wire between the engine units is
open. Repair or replace wire. If indicator moves toward
"C" position, sending unit is defective. Replace unit.
5. ACCESSORIES
The trouble shooting procedures given here for the
more complicated accessory units will aid in locating
and eliminating causes of accessory troubles. The procedures are arranged as follows under headings which
identify the particular accessory:
a. Radio.
Procedures for the location and elimination of minor
troubles interfering with normal receiver operation, are
presented here under headings that describe the nature
of the trouble. Each procedure either locates the minor
trouble or determines that the receiver should have a
major repair. Major repair on the radio should only be
made by a competent radio repairman. Determine the
nature of the trouble and turn to the heading that most
nerly describes the trouble. Follow the procedure presented under this heading.
(1) NO RECEPTION. Check the fuse at the "A"
terminal of the receiver. If the fuse is burned out, see
"(a) Fuse Burned Out". If the fuse is good, see "( b )
Fuse Good".
(a) FUSE BURNED OUT. If the fuse is burned out,
303
Section 5Accessories
If the replacement speaker does not correct the trouble,
check the receiver current draw. Normal current (with
vibrator) for 6-tube radios is 5.5 to 6.5 amperes; for
8-tube models the current is 7.0 to 8.5 amperes.
If the current is below normal by 3 to 4 amperes, install
a new vibrator. If the current is slightly below normal,
check for a burned out tube as outlined above under the
heading "( a ) F u s e Burned Out."
If the receiver does not respond by sounding "alive,"
remove for major repair.
( 2 ) WEAK RECEPTION. When reception is limited
to a few strong local stations, adjust the antenna trimmer
as described previously to align the receiver to the
antenna.
If the reception is not improved, check the antenna
for a short or open circuit. If the antenna is shorted,
remove it from the vehicle, and inspect the insulator for
moisture or foreign matter. Clean or dry the insulator
and install the antenna.
If the antenna is "open," disconnect the antenna lead
from the receiver and antenna base, and check it for
continuity by contacting the dwell leads to the center
prongs of the two connector plugs. Replace the lead if it
checks open circuited. If the lead is not "open," the connector plug is not making contact with the antenna base.
Clean the center contact of the connector plug and the
antenna base contact.
If normal reception is not restored by the above test
and adjustments, remove the receiver for major repair.
RUNNING).
If the receiver is not noisy with the engine off, but becomes noisy when the engine is running, inspect the installation of suppression equipment (condensers and
resistors). Substitute new parts if necessary. Make sure
all condensers are properly grounded.
On 1950 model OBF, OMF, and OZF radio receivers,
it may be necessary to use the following procedures to
reduce interference if the above procedure does not correct the trouble.
Install a condenser (part No. 8M-18826) from the
terminal of the oil pressure gauge sending unit to ground.
Ground the gas tank with a piece of braided wire.
Connect one end of the wire under one of the screws in
G R O U N D SHIELDING
T O CHASSIS
SECURE SHIELDING
AT THIS POINT
SHIELDED LEAD
SOLDER G R O U N D LEAD
A N D CONDENSER LEAD
AT THIS SPOT
3840
3839
Fig. 13Speaker Lead Shielding
304
the gas tank unit and the other end to the luggage comperature control lever at high, feel of the heater unit, it
partment floor pan.
should be warm. If it is cool, the temperature control
OBF ModelsRelocate the 330 mmf condenser (C35 )
unit could be defective, not allowing the water to ciron the speaker terminal as shown in fig. 12.
culate through the heater.
OMF (Previous to Ser. No. OMF-68000)-Insert a
NOTE: On 1949 cars check the small copper tube
plug-in-type choke (part No. OA-18841) between the
on the bottom of the automatic control unit, it should
receiver and the antenna lead.
not touch the heater case or control cables.
OZF ModelsPlace a section of shielding over the
If the control unit is not at fault, inspect the control
loud speaker leads and ground the shield to the receiver
cables. Make sure the cables are correctly installed, not
chassis as shown infig.13.
kinked, and that they allow full travel of both the tem(c) NOISY WHEN VEHICLE IS MOVING. If the noise
perature-control valve and the air-control valve.
occurs only when the vehicle is moving, it is caused by
Incorrect water flow could also cause insufficient heat.
wheel and tire static. Install static collector springs and
Check the water hoses to see that they are not kinked
anti-static powder.
or collapsed (possibly due to water outlet elbow point(4) SPEAKER RATTLE OR "BUZZ". Speaker rat- ing in wrong direction). Check the thermostat for proper
tle or "buzz" while the radio is operating is caused by installation and operation. It may be necessary to use a
the voice coil rubbing on the center pole piece of the
higher temperature thermostat and permanent antispeaker magnet, by a torn speaker cone, by foreign matefreeze in cold climates. Make sure the heater unit is not
rial coming in contact with the cone, or by a defective
at fault (improper heater core construction, such as no
tube in the receiver. The voice coil is thrown out of
water baffle in core tank). If this condition exists, it may
alignment by a twisting or bending of the speaker frame
be deflected by touching the heater. The left side of the
when the speaker unit is improperly mounted on the
heater will run cold on full water rate, if there is no
instrument panel. To determine if the speaker is at fault,
water baffle.
substitute a good service speaker before removing the
If the trouble has. not already been found, inspect the
suspected unit.
heater blower for a blown fuse or loose wires. Check for
If the reception is not improved, substitute tubes as
a poor ground, fan loose on motor shaft, blower wheel
described above under the heading "Noisy While Standor housing damaged (preventing rotation), foreign obing (Engine Not Running)". In the event that the
jects in blower, and damaged or burned out heater
speaker or tubes are not the cause of the trouble, the
switch.
receiver must be removed for major repair.
Air leaks in the ventilation system should next be
(5) DISTORTION AFTER DRIVING SOME DISchecked. Make sure the air valve can be closed by checkTANCE. This symptom is generally caused by faulty
ing for improperly installed cables or faulty valves. Look
tubes. Substitute a new tube in turn for each tube in
for grommets missing in the dash or a missing felt pad
the set until the distortion clears up.
around the accelerator rod. Make certain the air intake
(6) AUTOMATIC TUNING DOES NOT OPERscreens and the honeycomb of the heater core are not
ATE. The tuning unit in all receivers is a pre-positioned
clogged with leaves, etc.
cam mechanism. If the automatic tuning does not operTest for body air leaks caused by poor or missing seals
ate, remove the receiver from the vehicle and repair
around the doors or windows or loosely fitting doors.
the unit.
(2) INSUFFICIENT OR NO DEFROSTING. All
If the stations are not tuned correctly, readjust the
of
the preceding trouble shooting procedures' also apply
push buttons.
to this subject.
(7) MECHANICAL VIBRATION ON ROUGH
In addition, check the defroster control cable; it should
ROADS. Check the receiver chassis mounting nuts. Rebe
connected properly to allow full travel of the detighten if necessary. If the mounting bracket at the rear
froster
valve. Make sure the defroster hoses are conof the receiver is not stiff enough, place a largeflatwasher
nected,
the defroster dampers are tight on the control
under the nut on the engine side of the dash panel. The
shafts,
the
defroster nozzles are clear and attached, and
washer prevents "oil canning" of the panel and results
the
slot
in
the windshield molding is properly formed.
in an apparent stiffening of the bracket.
(3) INSUFFICIENT OR NO VENTILATION. Imb. Heater.
proper ventilation can be caused by the temperatureThree symptoms of heater trouble are given below as
control valve remaining open allowing hot water to flow
"(1) Insufficient or No Heat", "(2) Insufficient or No
through the heater core. If the control valve is closed,
Defrosting", and "(3) Insufficient or No Ventilation".
check to see that the air valves operate properly through
proper control cable adjustment. Make sure the air(1) INSUFFICIENT OR NO HEAT. The automatic
valve damper is tight on its shaft, and the intake screen
temperature control unit could cause insufficient heat.
is clean.
With the engine at operating temperature and the tem-
305
Section 5-Accessories
If the blower is used to supplement "ram" air and it
fails, use the porcedures outlined in connection with the
heater blower.
c. Overdrive.
Most of the overdrive troubles can be traced to an improperly functioning control circuit. The procedures
given below will aid in determining which particular unit
of the control circuit is the one causing the trouble.
The overdrive control circuit is shown in fig. 14. Control action is shown by the various insets in the illustration. You should be familiar with the operating principles of the overdrive before starting the trouble shooting
procedures. If you do not already know these principles,
it is suggested that they be reviewed. Overdrive trouble
shooting has been divided into four symptoms which are
arranged as follows:
(1) USE OF KICKDOWN SWITCH CUTS OUT
ENGINE. If the engine stops completely when the kickdown switch is operated, disconnect wire at No. 6 solenoid terminal and press kickdown switch (Fig. 14).
If the engine now continues to run, repair the insulation on the No. 6 terminal of the solenoid or replace the
solenoid. If the engine stops, replace the kickdown switch
or the switch to solenoid wire.
(2) OVERDRIVE WILL NOT KICK DOWN. This
symptom is caused by a failure in the solenoid assembly,
the kickdown switch, or in the circuit wiring (Fig. 14).
With the engine running connect a grounded jumper wire
to the No. 6 terminal on the solenoid and press the kickdown switch. If the engine now stops, repair the ignition
grounding contacts in the solenoid or replace the solenoid.
If the engine will not stop, connect the grounded
jumper to the ignition terminal on the kickdown switch.
If the engine continues to run, repair or replace the
kickdown-switch-to-coil-primary wire. If the engine stops,
repair switch-to-solenoid wire or replace switch.
(3) OVERDRIVE WILL NOT DISENGAGE. If the
:ONTACTS/i
OPEN AT A
21 M.P.H. V
POSITION OF KICKDOWN,
SWITCH TO
CONTACTS OPEN DISENGAGE OVERDRIVE(OVERDRIVE
DISENGAGED)
BLUE-ORANGE TR.
r\
IJ I
QD J
LOCKOUT SWITCH
(NOT ON 1951 CARS)
GOVERNOR
(CONTACTS
CLOSE AT
27 M.P.H.)
CONTACTS CLOSE
(OVERDRIVE
DISENGAGED)
CONTACTS
CLOSED
(OVERDRIVE
ENGAGED)
SOLENOID COIL
CONTACTS OPEN
(OVERDRIVE ENGAGED)
CONTACTS OPEN
OVERDRIVE DISENGAGED)
CONTACTS CLOSED
(OVERDRIVE
ENGAGED)
CHARGE
INDICATOR
BREAKER
CONTACTS
3075
306
6. POWER TRAIN
Corrective measures can only be taken after a correct
b. Clutch.
diagnosis has been made of the trouble. This is important when working on units that are costly to disassemble,
such as a transmission or rear axle.
a. Transmission.
Always check the possibility that trouble may exist in
other closely associated units, such as: axle, drive shaft,
universal joint or clutch, before removing the transmission from the vehicle.
(1) NOISY TRANSMISSION. A limited amount of
transmission gear noise is normal but if the noise is
objectionable check the lubricant. Add or refill transmission with recommended lubricant as required. The
noise may be caused by worn or damaged parts. Replace
parts as necessary or overhaul the transmission. Tighten
transmission mounting bolts, if they are loose.
(2) TRANSMISSION SHIFTS HARD. Check the
clutch release linkage adjustment, and adjust or repair
the clutch release mechanism as required. Inspect the
transmission controls for binding caused by bent or worn
parts, and replace or repair damaged and worn parts.
Check for correct type of lubricant, drain and refill
with recommended type of lubricant.
(3) TRANSMISSION JUMPS OUT OF GEAR.
The transmission may jump out of gear when the shifting mechanism is not properly shifted. Be sure to completely engage the mating gears before releasing the
clutch pedal. Move the gearshift lever until the steel
ball engages the notch in the shift rod.
.Check for excessive end play due to wear in shift
forks, fork grooves in sliding gears, thrust washers, mainshaft or countershaft bearings, clutch pilot bearing or
bushing. Replace the worn parts to correct.
Check the alignment of the transmission, and add
shims as required.
If the clutch slips, chatters, grabs, or will not disengage, adjust the clutch pedal free travel. If this does
not correct the trouble, remove the clutch for repairs.
c. Drive Shaft.
Excessive noise or vibration may be due to lack of
proper lubrication, improper assembly of universal joints,
worn bearings or journals, or sprung drive shaft.
d. Rear Axle.
Quite commonly a muffler roar, tire noise, wheel bearings, body drumming, etc., are improperly diagnosed as
rear axle noise. Therefore, after checking all possible external causes, consider following on a road test:
Select a level, asphalt or black-top road as this type
of road surface minimizes tire noise.
Drive the vehicle far enough to bring the axle lubricant to operating temperature. (Approximately 10 miles
at 50 m.p.h.)
A heavy-pitched, continuous rumble, which increases
as the vehicle speed is increased, is noticeable on acceleration between the speeds of 15 to 50 m.p.h., and is most
pronounced between the speeds of 25 to 35 m.p.h. indicates that the wheel bearings are at fault or the drive
pinion or differential bearings are improperly adjusted.
Coast noise will be more pronounced by allowing the
vehicle to coast from the speed of 50 m.p.h., down through
the speed range to 15 m.p.h., with the clutch engaged
and the throttle closed. If the noise is heavy and irregular on the coast, check the condition of the pinion front
bearing and check the drive pinion bearing preload adjustment. Bearings improperly adjusted, worn, scored,
or rough will aggravate axle noises.
7. DOOR LOCKS
Improper door lock operation usually results from
either a bind in the linkage or in the lock. The causes
are the lack of lubricant or the misadjustment or alignment of the release pin in the outside door handle.
This section contains trouble shooting procedures that
will assist in determining the cause of lock failure.
If the cause of lock failure is not known, these procedures should be followed to definitely establish the
cause. Start with the symptom that fits the description
of the lock failure.
307
(e)
If outside handle will not trip the door lock, refer to the
following steps for the causes of trouble and corrections.
Outside door handle release pin does not line up with
door lock release lever, or the release operating pin is not
long enough to contact the lock-release lever.
The corrections for these conditions on both the "pull"
type and the "push button" type handles are described
as follows:
(1) "PULL" TYPE HANDLE. Remove the outside door
handle. Check the operating pin to make sure it is seated
4066
Part FIVE
Chapter
III
Specifications
Section
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Iage
Section
308
308
.308
309
310
.310
313
314
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
Page
Fuel System.
Generating System
Starting System
Ignition
.
Lights and H o r n s . . .
Wiring Diagrams.,
Tools and Equipment.
314
.315
315
. . ... . . . .316
.316
.317
.319
Tire Size
and
Ply Rating
Wheel
Part
Number
Max.
Load
Capacity
Front Rear (Lbs.)
Inflation
Pressure
Wheel
Type
8A-1015-C 16 x 4H K
8A-1015-D 1 5 x 5 K
28
25
24
21
25
30
Static
Diam.
Loaded Rim
Bolt
Ratios Type Circle
(Inches)
(Inches)
Drop
915
13.4 Center
4^
Drop
1015
13.2 Center
4H
Drop
1130
13.4 Center
4JS
No.
Wheel
of
Offset
Nut
Bolts (Inches) Torque
(Ft.-Lbs.)
5
0.62
65-75
0.62
65-75
0.62
65-75
2. BRAKES
MODEL
Passenger Car
Brake
Position
Assy.
Part No.
Front
Rear
8A-2010
8A-2 209
Lining
Area
(sq. in.)
Total 176
99
77
10.060
10.060
Lining
Length
Lining
Secondary Width
(Inches) (Inches)
11
11
11
11%
2M
Lining
Thickness
(Inches)
Wheel
Master
Cyl. Dia. Cyl. Dia.
(Inches) (Inches)
1.003
He
v%
Total 173.24
8A-2010
99
10
10.060
1.003
He
Station Wagon Front
11
li
Rear
8C-2209
74.24
11.060
11%
He
y%
Brake pedal free travel % to 3^ inch. Lining wear limit J^ inch from lining surface to rivet heads. Lining to drum clearance0.010 inch.
Caster
Degrees!
Max.
Min.
Camber
Degrees^
Max.
Min.
l
-1
1
0
Early 1949 Pass. Car
A
1
0
Early 1949 Station Wagon
-iM*
l
l
1
0
Late 1949, 1950, and 1951 Pass. Car
A
1
0
Late 1949, 1950, and 1951 Sta. Wag.
-M
fMax. Variation Between Wheels -l/
*-M Preferred
A
VA to % Preferred Max. Variation Between Wheels
y$" to Vm Toe-out
King Pin
Inclination
Degrees
Max.
Min.
5%
5%
$%
5%
4%
4%
*K
4%
Toe-in
Front Wheels
(Inches)
- ^ t o - ^
-^to-K6*
Me t o y 8
% to y8
Tread
(Inches)
56.00
56.00
56.00
56.00
Bushing
Part No.
8A-3110-B
Mfg. Max,
I.D. (Inches)
0.8135
308
Bolt
Par*t No.
8A-3115
Mfg. Min.
I.D. (Inches)
0.8115
0.006"-0.016"
0.001"-0.002"
0.0025" Max.
0.004"-0.018"
309
Tapered Roller
Needle Bearing
Needle Bearing
Oilless Bushing
1.1245
No Perceptible
keep wheel-lbs.)
K-1M
(Ft. Lbs.)
Torque SpecificationsContinued
Steering Gear to Frame Bolts
60-70
1^-2
30-35
22-28
12-15
12-15
110-130
50-60
50-60
70-80
50-60
12-15
30-35
85-100
5-7
4. REAR AXLES
4209 Driving Gear and Pinion
Model
Car
Station Wagon
Gear Backlash
(Inches)
Min.
Max.
0.003
0.008
0.003
0.008
Drive Gear
Run Out
(Inches)
Min.
Max.
0.003
0.000
0.003
0.000
Pinion Bearing
Adjustment
(Inch-pounds)
Min. New Max. New
22
8
28*
12
Passenger Car
Station Wagon
Mfg. Dia.
(Inches)
0.750
0.7495
Mfg. I.D.
(Inches)
0.755
1.75495
Ft. Lbs.
30-35
70-80
15-20
3Q-35
140-180
60-70
310
Chapter IIISpecifications
Deflection
Rate
(lbs. per in.)
Height at
Normal Load
(Inches)
Wire
Dia.
(Inches)
Coil
1875
400
9.22
0.685
Coil
2125
400
9.22
0.700
8A-5310-D
Coil
1875
436
9.50
0.700
8A-5310-F
Coil
1875
. 475
9.22
0.720
Spring
Part Number
Type
8A-5310-B
8A-5310-C
Model
Pass. Cars*
3 Pass. Coupe (1949 only)
Station Wagon
Pass. Cars*
8A-5560-J
8A-5560-B
8A-5560-K
8A-5560-L
Deflection
Rate
(lbs. per in.)
680
100
500
100
9
7
1100
165
680
115
Load
Opening at
Normal Load
(Inches)
Length
(Inches)
Width
(Inches)
Spring
Clip
Torque
Ft.-Lbs.
.56
.56
1.44
.56
50.00
50.00
50.00
50.00
2.00
2.00
2.00
2.00
45-50
45-50
55-60
45-50
6. ENGINES
EngineGeneral
EngineGeneral (Continued)
8cyl.
Horsepower
Taxable Horsepower
Bore (Inches)
Stroke (Inches)
Piston Displacement
(Cubic Inches)
6 cyl.
225.9
*Compression @
Sea Level (p.s.i.)
Firing Order
Oil Capacity (Qts.)
Compression Ratio
Torque (Ft. Lbs.
@ RPM)
8 cyl.
6 cyl.
120
1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
4
6.8:1
120
1-5-3-6-2-4
4
6.8:1
180 @ 2000
180 @ 1200
Valves
Part Number
7HA-6505-A
(1949 and Early 1950)
7HA-6505-A (Late 1950)
1HA-6505-A (1951)
7HA-6507
(1949 and Early 1950)
7HA-6507 (Late 1950)
1HA-6507-A (1951)
8BA-6505-A (Early 1949)
8BA-6505-A
(Late 1949 and 1950)
1BA-6505-A (1951)
1BA-6507-A (1951)
Seat
Angle
(Degrees)
Mfg. Min.
Stem
Diameter
(Inches)
Mfg. Clearance
Valve Stem
to Guide
(Inches)
45
0.3410
0.0010-0.0031
0.013
0.015
Mi
45
0.3410
0.0010-0.0031
0.017
0.019
ML
45
0.3410
0.0010-0.0031
0.009
0.011
ML
45
0.3410
0.0010-0.0031
0.013
0.015
ML
45
45
0.3410
0.3410
0.0015-0.0035
0.0015-0.0035
0.014
0.017
0.016
0.019
0.010
0.013
0.012
0.015
ML
ML
45
45
0.3410
0.3410
0.0015-0.0035
0.0015-0.0035
0.017
0.019
0.013
0.015
ML
MI
Min. Valve
Head Edge
Thickness
(Inches)
311
Section 6Engines
Valve Timing
Engine
6250
Intake
Intake
Exhaust Exhaust
Opens
Closes
Opens
Closes
(Degrees) (Degrees) (Degrees) (Degrees)
B.T.C.
A.B.C.
B.B.C.
A.T.C.
6-cyl.
8-cyl. (1949)
8-cyl.* (1949
50-51)
11
0
'
41
48
10
44
48
44
48
Camshaft
Max.
AllowPart
able
Runout
Number
(Inches)
7HA 6250-C 0.005
8BA 6250-A 0.005
8BA 6250-B 0.005
OHA 6250
0.005
Part Number
Test Length
(Inches)
2.13
2.11
End
Play
(Inches)
0.003-0.006
0.007-0.016
0.007-0.016
0.003-0.006
Wear
Limit
Camshaft
Journals
Intake Exhaust (Inches)
0.3375 0.3335
1.924
0.291
1.794
0.287
0.291
1.794
0.287
0.3375 0.3335
1.924
Min. Valve
Lift (Inches)
Pressure
(Pounds)
40 to 43
47 to 53
7HA 6256
8HA 6256
8BA 6256
Back Lash
Between Timing
Gears (Inches)
0.002-0.003
0.002-0.003
0.002-0.003
Max. Gear
Face Runout
(Inches)
0.002
0.002
0.002
6261-6262
6500 Valve P u s h Rods
Part Number
7HA-6500-A
8BA-6500-A
Mfg. Clearance
in Block
(Inches)
0.0005-0.0015
0.0007-0.0016
Mfg. Minimum
Push Rod Diameter
(Inches)
0.6240
0.9992
Camshaft Bearings
Clearance
Max. Clearance
Mfg. Max. New Camshaft Used Camshaft
Part
Number
and Bearings
Inside Dia. and Bearings
(Inches)
(Inches)
(Inches)
01A 6261-C
1.7985
0.001-0.002
0.005
01A 6262-C
1.7985
0.001-0.002
0.005
1.9285
0.001-0.002
0.005
7HA6262-C
Part Number
49T 6108-A
49T 6108-C
49T 6108-D
49T 6108-E
49T 6108-F
49T 6108-G
8BA 6108-A
8BA 6108-B
8BA 6108-C
8BA 6108-D
8BA 6108-E
8BA 6108-F
7HA 6108-A
7HA 6108-D
7HA 6108-E
7HA 6108-F
7HA 6108-G
OHA 6108-A
OHA 6108-B
OHA 6108-C
OHA 6108-D
OHA 6108-E
OHA 6108-F
Type of Piston
Piston Skirt
Diameter Limits
(Inches)
Standard
0.020 inch O.S.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
0.0025 inch O.S.
Standard
0.0025 inch O.S.
0.020 inch O.$.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
Standard
0.020 inch O.S.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
Standard
0.0025 inch O.S.
0.020 inch O.S.
0.030 inch O.S.
0.040 inch O.S.
0.060 inch O.S.
3.1855-3.1865
3.2055-3.2065
3.2155-3.2165
3.2255-3.2265
3.2455-3.2465
3.1880-3.1890
3.1879-3.1891
3.1891-3.1903
3.2067-3.2079
3.2167-3.2179
3.2267-3.2279
3.2467-3.2479
3.2996-3.3008
3.3180-3.3190
3.3280-3.3290
3.3380-3.3390
3.3580-3.3590
3.3003-3.3015
3.3016-3.3028
3.3191-3.3203
3.3291-3.3303
3.3391-3.3403
3.3591-3.3603
0.003
6-12
0.003
6-12
0.004
6-12
0.0015
3-12
0.0015
3-12
0.003
3-12
0.003
6-12
0.003
6-12
0.003
6-12
0.002
3-12
0.002
3-12
0.003
3-12
312
6135
Chapter IIISpecifications
*Piston Pins
Part Number
Mfg. Clearance
in Piston
(Inches)
Mfg. Clearance in
Connecting Rod
Bushings (Inches)
7HA-6135
0.0001-0.0003
0.0007
0.0001-0.0003
49T-6135
0.0001-0.0003
0.0007
0.0001-0.0003
Fit pins at 70 F.
6149 Piston Rings
End Gap of Ring in
Cylinder Bore (Inches)
Compression
Oil
Rings
Rings
Engine
Oversizes
Available
for Service
(Inches)
B Series
H Series
0.007-0.047
When Bore
Taper Does
not Exceed
0.006 Inch
When Bore
Taper Is
Between 0.006
and 0.015 Inches
Use steel section
type rings
Use steel section
type rings
Connecting Rod
Part Number
Max. Out-of-Round
Bore (Inches)
7HA-62OO
2.4235
0.8506
0.006-0.014
0.002
8BA-6200-A
2.2910
0.7506
0.006-0.020
0.002
OBA-6200
2.2910
0.7506
0.006-0.020
0.002
Note: Allowable bend or twist in connecting rod is 0.002 inch as checked on connecting rod aligner.
6303 Crankshaft
Part Number
Mfg. Main
Journal Diameter
(Inches)
Mfg. Crankpin
Journal Diameter
(Inches)
Max. Allowable
Out-of-round
Journals (Inches)
Max. Allowable
Journal Taper
(Inches)
Mfg. Crankshaft
End Play
(Inches)
8HA 6303
2.8732-2.8740
2.2980-2.2988
0.0015
0.001
0.004-0.008
8BA 6303
2.498 -2.4990
2.138 -2.1390
0.0015
0.001
0.002-0.006
1HA 6303
2.8732-2.8740
2.2980-2.2988
0.0015
0.001
0.004-0.008
1BA 6303
2.498 -2.499
2.138 -2.139
0.0015
0.001
0.002-0.006
Undersize
Bearings
Available
(Inches)
0.002, 0.010, 0.020,
0.030
0.002, 0.010, 0.020,
0.030, 0.040
0.002, 0.010, 0.020,
0.030, 0.040
0.002, 0.010, 0.020,
0.030, 0.040
6331-6333
Mfg.
Crankpin
Clearance
(Inches)
Bearing
Crush
Clearance
(Inches)
0.0004-0.0027
0.001-0.003
0.0005-0.0030
0.001-0.003
0.0005-0.0030
0.001-0.003
0.0005-0.0020
0.001-0.003
6375
Mfg. Clearance
Between Bearing
and Shaft
(Inches)
0.0005-0.0032
0.0005-0.0032
0.0004-0.0022
0.001-0.0026
0.001-0.0026
Flywheel
Part
Number '
8BA-6375-B
8HA-6375-B
8HC-6375
8RC-6375
Max.
Allowable
Runout
(Inches)
0.005
0.005
0.005
0.005
Max. Depth
Cut For
Refacing
(Inches)
0.045
0.045
0.045
0.045
Max. Allowable
Ring Gear
Runout
(Inches)
0.010
0.010
0.010
0.010
Section 6Engine
6600 6-Cylinder Oil P u m p
313
Torque Limits
Measurement
Mfg. Max. Body Inside Diameter
Wear Limit Body Inside Diameter
Mfg. Maximum Shaft Diameter
Shaft Diameter Wear Limit
Shaft End Play
Mfg. Maximum Outer Rotor Outside
Diameter
Outer Rotor Outside Diameter Wear Limit
Mfg. Clearance Outer Rotor to Pump Body
Wear Limit Outer Rotor to Pump Body
Clearance
Rotor Thickness Wear Limit
Mfg. Max. Clearance Inner to Outer Rotor
Wear Limit Inner to Outer Rotor Clearance
Mfg. Max. Clearance Inner Rotor to Cover
Wear Limit Rotor to Cover Clearance
Max. Allowable Cover Plate Wear
Backlash Between Oil Pump and Camshaft
Gears
Relief Valve Spring Pressure
Dimension
(Inches)
2.258
2.260
0.5195
0.5170
0.008-0.012
2.249
2.246
0.005-0.10
0.012
0.998
0.006
0.010
0.0005-0.003
0.005
0.001
0.003-0.005
12.76 Lbs.
2 Ounces
@ 1.14 Inches
2.150
2.204
0.0005-0.0025
0.0030.005
0.002-0.0035
0.005
12 Lbs.
2 Ounces
@ 1.14 Inches
Part
Main Bearing Bolts
Cylinder Head Nuts
Cylinder Head Bolts
Oil Pan to Cylinder Block
Oil Pan to Rear Engine Plate
Flywheel Bolts
Exhaust Manifold
Intake Manifold
Oil Pump to Cylinder Block
Oil Pump Cover Plate
Oil Filter to Cylinder Block or Head
Cylinder Front Cover
Water Pump
Water Outlet Elbow
Fuel Pump
Rear Oil Seal Retainer
Valve Chamber Cover
Clean Out Plate to Oil Pan
Generator Bracket
Camshaft Gear
Pressure Plate Assembly
Rear Plate to Block
Clutch Housing to Transmission
Clutch Housing to Block
Starter to Engine Rear Plate
Damper to Crankshaft
Conn. Rod Nuts
Thrust Plate Screws
Conn. Rod Locknuts
Intake to Exhaust Manifold
Torque
(Ft. Lbs.)
8cyl.
95-105
50-55
65-70
15-18
10-15
75-85
25-30
23-28
12-15
7-10
23-28
12-15
23-28
12-15
6-9
6cyl.
95-105
50-55
65-70
15-18
10-15
75-85
25-30
25-30
10-15
7-10
25-30
15-18
27-32
13-19
15-20
10-15
4-7
10-15
30-40
15-20
17-20
50-60
40-50
37-42
15-20
45-55
45-50
15-18
4-5
30-35
10-15
55-70
15-20
17-20
40-50
37-42
15-20
45-50
4-5
Use
With
Disc.
Dia.
Spring
Color
Pass. Cars
8BA-7550-A
9V2'f
Orange
Pass. Cars
8HA-7550-A
6 cyl. "H"
without
overdrive
Pass. Cars
Model
Aluminum
9V2'f
Black
10"
Orange
10"
Aluminum
10"
Black
Model
Pass. Cars
Police Cars and
Taxi Cabs
Diameter
(Inches)
Part
Number
Green
9.5
8A-7563-A
19A-7563-A
Spring
Color
PedalFree
Travel
(Inches)
i-iM
Blue
10
7003 Transmission*
Type
3Speed
Gear
Type
All
Helical
1st
2.82
Gear Ratios
2nd
3rd
Rev.
1.0
3.62
1.604
Chapter III-Specifications
314
7030-7160 Snap Rings
Part No.
Name
8M-7030-A
Main Shaft
8M-7030-B
Bearing Outer
8M-7030-C
8M-7030-D
8M-7160-A
Main Shaft
8M-7160-B
Speedometer
8M-7160-C
Drive Gear*
8M-7160-D
Miscellaneous
Clutch Assembly to Flywheel Cap
Screws
Low and Reverse Sliding Gear to
Main Shaft Clearance
Flywheel Housing Parallel Runout
Flywheel Housing Bore Alignment
Sizes Available
0.086"-0.088"
0.089"-0.091"
0.092"-0.094"
0.095"-0.097"
0.090"
0.093"
0.096"
0.100"
8. COOLING
8005
Radiator
System Capacity
Part Number
(Quarts)
8HA-8005-A
16
8HA-8005-B
16
8BA-8005-A
21
8BA-8005-B
22
Note: Cooling system is pressurized to 3^4}^ pounds on all
6-cylinder cars and 8-cylinder cars without Fordomatic transmission. 6% to 73^ pounds is used in 8-cylinder cars equipped
with Fordomatic transmission.
8575
Part Number
7RA-8512-C
8BA-8512
8HA-8512
8520 Water P u m p Bushing
Part Number
7RA-8520-B
Thermostats
Opens at
(F)
7HA-8575-A3
157-162
7HA-8575-B1 and 2
148-153
7HA-8575-B3
148-153
7HA-8575-C
177-182
8BA-8575-B
157-162
8BA-8575-C
167-172
8BA-8575-D
152-157
8BA-8575-A
148-153
7HT-8575-B
160
7HT-8575-C
180
1BA-8575-A
157-162
1BA-8575-B
177-182
*Use with permanent type anti-freeze.
Part Number
Fully Open
(F)
177-182
168-173
168-173
195
177-182
195
172-177
168-173
177-182
195
9. FUEL SYSTEM
9510 Carburetor
Main Metering Jet
Sizes (Inches)
5000
10,000
to
to
Standard
10,000
Feet
Altitude Altitude
Float
Setting
Using"
Float
Level
Gauge
(Inches)
8BA-9510-A
1BA-9510-A
0.051
0.049
0.047
1.3221.353
8HA-9510-A
(Early 1949)
0.065
0.063
0.061
1.3221.353
0.064
0.062
0.060
'1.3221.353
Part
Number
8HA-9510-A
1HA-9510-A
(Late 1949
and 1950)
Power
Valve
Identification
Mark
Idle
Tube
Identification
Number
Pump
Link
Identification
Mark
Number
Drill
Size
(Inches)
Drill
Number
Size
(Inches)
54
60 a n d
65
0.040
and
0.035
56
0.0465
62
64
53
0.0595
53
62
64
53
0.0595
53
56
0.0455
to
0.0475
55
0.051
to
0.053
0.0595
56
0.0455
to
0.0475
55
0.051
to
0.053
0.0595
56
0.0455
to
0.0475
55
0.051
to
0.053
6-6^
315
Part Number
7HA-9350-B
8HA-9350
1HA-9350
7RA-9350-C
7RA-9350-E
1BA-9350
Part Number
8A-9002-A (Pass. Car)
8M-9002-B (Sta. Wagon)
Max. Allowable
Time to Pump
Vacuum
One Pint at
(Inches Hg) IdleR.P.M.
(Seconds)
4-5
10
45
10
45
Capacity (Gallons)
17
* 18.8
400
35
900
390
35
890
270
60
580
BRUSHES
PulOrig. Spring
Mounting
Field
Armature ley No. Length TenPulley No.
Bracket No.
sion
O.D
(In) (Oz.)
(In.)
81A-10175
8BA-10005 3.2
2
0.86
8BA-10130-H 8BA-10151-C
30
81A-10175
8BA-10005 3.08 2
0.86
30
8HA-10130-A3 7HA-10151
8BA-10175-B 8BA-10027 3.2
4
1.10
30
8BA-10130-B2 8BA-10151-B
10505 Regulator
10655 Battery
Cut-In
Voltage
Current
Replace In
Voltage
Regulation Regulation
Service
By
Min. Max. Min. Max. Min. Max.
*51A-10505-A2, C2 Standard
7.0
6.0
6.3
7.3
30
33
8A-10505
6.8
51A-10505-B2, D2 Tropical
6.0
6.3
7.1
30
33
8A-10505
51A-10505-A1
Std. & Trop. 6.6
7.0
7.2
7.6
30
34
8A-10505
Standard
51A-10505-H
7.2
6.6
7.0
7.6
38
34
8M-10505
Tropical
51A-10505-J
6.6
7.0
7.0
7.4
34
38
8M-10505
8BA-10505-A
6.2
7.1
Special
5.9
7.3
55
60
6.0
8A-10505
Standard
6.6
7.2
7.6
30
34
Standard
6.0
8M-10505
6.6
7.2
7.6
34
38
Part
Number
Type
Part
Number
01A-10655-C
81A-10655-A2
81A-10655-B2
Volts
6
6
6
Plates
15 H
17 L
15 L
Amp.
Hrs.*
100
100
90
HHigh Plates
LLow Plates
*@ 20 Hr. Rate
*Cold Setting. All other settings are for regulator at normal operating temperature in
ambient (surrounding air) temperature of 70-80 F.
Engine
Cranking
Speed*
7RA-11001
100
14
100
14
7HA-11001
*Engine at normal operating temperature.
11350 Starter Drive
Part
Number
Type
B-11350
8HA-11350
Spring
Spring
Pinion
Teeth
Ring
Gear
Teeth
550
10
112
550
10
112
Max.'Forque
Ft.-Lb.
Amp.
Gear
Ratio
11.2
11.2
11055 Brushes
Pinion
Teeth
10
9
Used On
7RA, 7HA-11001
7HA-11001
Part
Number
18-11055
Armature
18-11005
18-11005
Brush
Wear
Spring
Mf'd. Limit
Length (Inches) Tension (Oz.)
0.455
No Load
Amperage
45-60
45-60
0.33
48-56
Part
Number
18-11083
18-11085
Used
On
(L.H.)
(R.H.)
All
All
Chapter IIISpecifications
316
12. IGNITION
12127 Distributor
Distributor
Total
Initial Distributor Advance
Breaker
Dwell
W.O.T
Advance
Vacuum at
Advance
Arm
Contact Advance Characteristics
Part
Crank- Crankshaft
W.O/T.
Spring Contact at Idle
Vacuum Carburetor
Number
shaft
Degrees Engine Crankshaft TenSpring
Speed Dis- Distrib- (Inches
Vacuum
of
Degrees
R.P.M. Degrees
sion
(Inches) (Per- tributor butor
Engine (Inches
BTC
Min. Max.
Min. Max. (Ounces)
cent) R.P.M. Degrees Mercury) R.P.M Hg)
200
0-0
0
800 0.5-0.7
0
21
23
21
23
500
0.4
7HA-12127
4000
17-20 0.024-0.026 58-63
1^-3
1000 1.2-1.6
1.4
1000 SV2-&A
2200 4.8-6.6
5.5
1000 11^-13
2400 4.9-6.7
2.9
1500
4.1
2000 ioy2-ny2
0-0
200
800 2.0-2.9
0
2
15
19
500
0.4
17
7RA-12127-C
4000 . 17
17-20 0.014-0.016 58-63
1J4-2J4
1000 3.5-4.8
1.7
1000 4J4-534
2200 4.7-6.4
2.8
1500 6lA-7}4
2400 4.6-6.2
3.7
2000 73^-8^|
200
0-0
0
800 2.0-2.9
2
15
17
17
19
0-1
500
8BA-12127
4000
17-20 0.014-0.016 58-63
0.30
1000 3.5-4.8
1000
5.2-6.2
1.32
2200 4.7-6.4
1500 8%-10
2.85
2400 4.6-6.2
2000
10-11^ 3.7
0-0
200
0
800 2.0-2.9
2
15
17
19
500
0-1
17
OBA-12127
4000
17-20 0.014-0.016 58-63
0.30
1000 3.5-4.8
1000
5.2-6.2
1.32
2200 4.7-6.4
1500 8^-10
2.85
2400 4.6-6.2
2000
io-nJ4 3.7
12120 Distributor Housing Upper Bushing
Mfg. Outside
Mfg. Inside
Dia. Limits
Dia. Limits
Part Number
(Inches)
(Inches)
7RA-12120
0.7485-0.7490
0.4685-0.4695
12029 Coil
Coil
Part Number
8BA-12029
No. Turns
240
Primary
Resistance Ohms
1.05-1.15 (75 F)
No. Turns
21000
12300 Condenser
Secondary
Resistance Ohms
4100 (75 F)
12405
Part Number
Capacity
Min. Leakage
Microfarads
Megohms
5
7RA-12300-B
*0.21-0.25
At room temperature (70 F).
**As measured on Ford Distributor Stroboscope.
13
Max. Series
Resistance
Ohms
5.05.5
1 2.75-3.0
SparkPlugs
Part
Number
Type
7RA-12405
H-10
Size
Gap
(Inches)
**1
14MM 0.029-0.032
Torque
(Ft. Lbs)
Cast Iron
Head
24-30
13002 Headlights
13832 Horns
Headlight
Height-Inches
Model
32%
1949-1950
32%
1951
NOTE: < means "center line."
<fc Car to
<fc Headlight
26%
26%
Part Number
51A-13832-A
51A-13832-B
51A-13833-A
51A-13833-B
* 6.2-7.2 volts.
Current
Draw
Amps.*
12-14
12-14
12-14
12-14
Pitch
High
High
Low
Low
Air Gap
Inches
0.027-0.029
0.040
0.032-0.034
0.050
6 CYLINDER WIRING
HEADLIGHT
.DISTRIBUTOR
TO
OVERDRIVE
THROTTLE
SWITCH
W-R
OVERDRIVE
SOLENOID
1 TEMPERATURE
OVERDRIVE
SENDER
GOVERNOR
INTERIOR
LIGHT SWITCH
OVERDRIVE
ICKDOWN
SWITCH
ENGINE TO
DASH
BOND
THERMAL
SWITCH
YB-W
B-R-*
OCK
CLOCK
LIGHT
Bl-B-**
CIRCUIT
BREAKERS
~~~
BATTERY CHARGE
INDICATOR
OIL PRESSURE
INDICATOR
^ I T T HIGH
; ;;3; BEAM
'INDICATOR
PANEL
OVERDRIVE
RELAY
NEUTRAL
SWITCH
, HORNS
W-R
-j-fFUEL LEVE
HYDRO
MOTOR
SPARK PLUGS
LIGHTING
B-Y SWITCH
SIGNAL
CIRCUIT BREAKER^
CONNECTIONS
STOP LIGHT SWITCH^"
>LIGHT
B-Black
B-W-Black with White Tracer
B- BL -Black with Blue Tracer
B-R- Block with Red Tracer
B-OBlack with Orange Tracer
BL- B-Blue with Black Tracer
BY-Black with Yellow Tracer
BL-Blue
BL-R-Blue with Red Tracer
BL-OBlue with Orange Tracer
BL-Y-Blue with Yellow Tracer
G-BGreen with Black Tracer
B-GBlack with Green Tracer
G- RGreen with Red Tracer
R-B-Red with Black Tracer
G Green
R-BLRed with Blue Tracer
R-GRed with Green Trace*
R-W-Red with White Tracer
R-Y-R9d with Yellow Tracer
W-White
Y-B-Yellow with Black Tracer
W - R - White with Red Tracer
Y-R-Yellow with Red Tracer
Y~G-Yeflow with Green Tracer
LICENSE
PLATE
LIGHT
5"
FOOT DIMMER
KEY
B-BL
SWITCH
DOME LIGHT-STATION WAGON
1
- C D - Connector
[
Bulb Filament
^F
Ground
Fuse
3616
u>
CYLINDER WIRING
CIRCUIT
BREAKER
PARKING
LIGHT
HEADLIGHT
COURTESY
SWITCH
.DISTRIBUTOR
TO
OVERDRIVE
.THROTTLE
SWITCH
R-G
TO
GNITION
SWITCH
TEMP
SENDER
00
r3l>*-DOME
LIGHT
TAIL
LIGHT
7-CLOCK
/ CLOCK
JLr LIGHT
W-R
DISTRIBUTOR
RATOR
TEMPSENDER
Y-B
IGNITION SWITCH
OVERDRIVE
SOLENOID
I TEMPERATURE
OVERDRIVE r
SWITCH
GOVERNOR I
G-R
OVERDRIVE
LOCKOUT
SWITCH
OVERDRIVE,
THROTTLE,
SWITCH
ENGINE TO
DASH
BOND
30 AMP
CIRCUIT BREAKER
B
B-W
B-R -
2 AMP. FUSE
U-CIRCUIT
! BREAKER
B-G
1 4 AMP. FUSES
B-BL
BATTERY CHARGE
INDICATOR
OIL PRESSURE
INDICATOR
LICENSE
PLATE
LIGHT
. . , BEAM
! INDICATOR
'
|-jFUEL LEVEL
; I INDICATOR
'-ENGINE
TEMPERATURE
INDICATOR
STARTER
BUTTON
HEADLIGHT
PARKING
LIGHT
B-Y
LIGHTING SWITCH
B-Y
HORN
Y-R
RING
FUEL
LEVEL
SENDER
FOOT DIMMERfi;
SWITCH
*
TAIL
LIGHT
,DOME
LIGHT
SWITCH
BL-B/ue
BL-'R-Blue with Red Tracer
BL-Y-Bfoe with Yellow Tracer
B-GBlack with Green Tracer
R-BRed with Black Tracer
R-BLRed with Blue Tracer
R-WRed with White Tracer
R-Y-Red with Yellow Tracer
Y-B -Yellow with Black Tracer
Y-R-Yeliow with Red Tracer
DOME LIGHT-STATION W A G O N
AUTOMATIC TOP CONTROLS-CONVERTIBLE
TRANSMISSION OVERDRIVE EQUIPMENT-EXTRA COST
CONVERTIBLE TOP CONTROL SWITCH
G Green
Y-Yellow
Y-G -Yellow
1
-CD"
Connector
&
Bulb Filament
"==
Ground
Fuse
3613
319
Test Equipment
Diagnosis Test Set
Tool List
Supplier
K. R.
Wilson
2035-N
Manzel
1175-H
2086-L
3046-N
3089-N
3110-N
3046-A
3046-B
3110-K
3110-Q
3600-N
4000-N
4067-N
3110-L
3600-AA
4000-A
4067-B
4198-N
4210-N
4221-N
4221-N
4235-N
4610-N
4610-P
4610-PP
4198
4201-C
4221-AB
4221-AB
4255-A
4209-C
4610-A
4610-CC
4628-N
4676-P
4858-P
6000-N
6000-P
4628-E
4676-A
4858-E
6000
6000-A
6110-A
6150
6261-B
512
6150-N
6005-N
6256-AA
6256-N
6256-AB
6256-R
6269-N
6306-N
6256-BB
6264
6306-H
6306-P
6312-N
6316-N
6306-C
6312-J
6316-F
Illus.
on
Page
No.
105
Name
Universal Oil Seal Puller
Remover and ReplacerBrake
Shoe Return Spring
142
WrenchCamber Adjusting
273
WrenchCaster Adjusting
274
Remover and ReplacerSpindle
Pin Bushing
123, 124
ReamerSpindle Pin Bushing
124
RemoverSteering Wheel
130
SpreaderDifferential Housing
112
WrenchDifferential Bearing
Adjustment
110
ReplacerAxle Housing Studs
104
IndicatorRing Gear Backlash
110
Remover and ReplacerPinion Bearings 107
RemoverDifferential Bearings
107
RemoverAxle Shaft
105
ScalePinion Tension
108
GaugePinion Depth
109
Master PinionTo Measure
Pinion Depth
109
ReplacerPinion Bearing Cups
107
ReplacerPinion Shaft Oil Seal
109
ReplacerCompanion Flange
108
Engine Lifting Hook Assembly
32
Engine Lift Eye6-Cylinder
6
Piston Pull Scale
26, 50
CompressorPiston Ring
29, 52
Remover & ReplacerCamshaft
Bearings
18, 42
Drill Fixture and Drill6 Cylinder
Timing Gear
17
Remover6 Cylinder Timing Gear
(6256^N includes drill fixture
and drill)
17
Replacer6 Cylinder Timing Gear
17, 18
Remover and ReplacerThrust Plate
16
ReplacerCamshaft Gear and
Damper
23, 37, 46
RemoverCrankshaft Gear
22, 45
RemoverCrankshaft Pulley
37
RemoverVibration Damper
12
Supplier
Manzel Inc , 315 Babcock Street, Buffalo, N. Y.
Supplier
K. R.
Wilson
Name
Remover and ReplacerMain
Bearing Inserts
21,22,45
6384-N
6384
RemoverFlywheel
23, 43
6510-N
6510-J ReplacerValve Guide
14
6510-O
6510-K RemoverValve Guide
14
6513-N
6513-G CompressorValve Spring
13, 38
6513-P
6505-C Valve^Assembly Press
38,40
6513-Q
6513-E RemoverValve Guide Retainer
38
6513-R
6513-D CompressorValve Spring
14, 38
6513-S
6513-C Remover and ReplacerValve Spring
13
6518-N
6518
Replacer^-Valve Stem Lock
14, 38
6614-N
6254-C RemoverOil Pump Gear and
Distributor Drive Gear
41
7000-PW 7000-B-l Gauge Pin (Used with 77270)
98
7059-N
7064
PliersSnap Ring
197
7195-W
7195
WrenchRear Band Adjusting
99
7225-W
7225
WrenchFront Band Adjusting
99
Replacer and PilotExtension
7657-W
7657
Housing Oil Seal
100
7657-W
7657-B ReplacerTransmission Extension Oil
Seal Shield (Used with 7657)
100
7699-N
7699-A ReplacerTransmission Extension
and Overdrive Bearing
92
9510-N
9505-A Float Position Gauge
69
9510- A WrenchCarburetor Jet
73
Rivet ToolGenerator
10505-Q 10505
Regulator Cover
154
10505-N 10505-C-d AdjustingToolGenerator Regulator 154, 155
12131-N 12131
Holding BlockDistributor Drive Gear 64
12132-N 12132
Split Drift
65
12132-P 12132-A ReplacerDistributor Shaft Bushing
65
BurnisherDistributor Drive Shaft
12132-Q 12132
Bushings
65
12132-N-2 12132-B Holding BlockDistributor Body
60
12150-N 12150-D WrenchDistributor Adjusting
60, 62
12151-N 12151
Tension ScaleDistributor Points
60
12390-N 12390-B RemoverDistributor Drive Gear
64
17470-N 17470
RemoverHeadlight Switch
172, 173
77230-W 77230-F Linkage Adjusting Tool
96
GaugeTransmission Throttle
77270-W 77270
Control Lever
98
77820-W 77820
Pressure Gauge and Hose
98
Address
Manzel
6331
Illus
on
Page
No.
Date
Subject
Changes Information
on Page No.