Planting Trees and Shrubs
Planting Trees and Shrubs
David Hillock
Extension Consumer Horticulturist Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Fact Sheets
are also available on our website at:
Mike Schnelle http://www.osuextra.com
Extension Ornamental Horticulturist
Trees and shrubs normally increase the value of real Potted plants are bare-root plants that have been grown
estate. A combination of trees and shrubs can lower energy in the field, but they are put in a soil mix in papier mâché pots
consumption as well. Trees have the greatest impact on the for ease of handling. This does not provide the same quality
living environment, thus it is best to select adapted, pest-free plant as a plant grown in a container. Roses, for example,
trees and plant them properly. are commonly marketed this way.
Planting begins with the selection of species adapted to Regardless of container material, papier mâché, ridged
the site and climate. For example, pin oak and sweetgum will plastic, polyethylene, etc., remove it at the time of planting.
develop chlorosis in alkaline soils. This is due to their inability
to take up/utilize certain micronutrients when growing in near
neutral to alkaline soils. Yet sweetgum will tolerate poorly
Planting Times
drained, clay soils that would kill an oak. While an oak has Planting time varies from fall to spring by plant type and
some drought tolerance, sweetgum has none. The time to method of growing. Research suggests that early fall planting is
decide on the species is long before you go to the nursery to best for container-grown and B&B shade and ornamental trees
select the tree or shrub. For more information, contact your and pines, but spring is best for planting bare-root plants and
county Extension educator, local nursery personnel, park or broadleaf evergreens, such as holly and Southern magnolia.
arboretum manager, or study areas of your city that have Plants planted in the fall have more time for the root system
mature trees. to become established before the onset of summer heat.
To ensure successful tree establishment, the following Plants installed during the growing season are susceptible
planting techniques and methods should be used. to high transpiration rates leading to drying of plant tissues.
However, many containerized plants can be planted any time
if handled properly.
Plant Types Most bare-root or packaged plants should be planted
Today several types of plant production techniques are between mid-February and mid-April or up to the end of the
used to grow plants offering the consumer several options. frost period. Other than seedling-sized evergreens, only de-
Each has advantages and disadvantages, which are discussed ciduous plants can be transplanted with bare roots, and then
below and will dictate the manner in which they are handled only when dormant or leafless.
and planted. No matter which plant type is chosen, it is always
important to choose a quality grown plant.
Bare-root or packaged plants should be dormant (not
showing new growth). The bare-root plant is often prepack-
aged in a colorful bag. Open the bag immediately and dampen
the roots until planting. At planting remove all bags, strings,
or wires (Figure 1a)
Balled and burlapped (B&B) plants are dug with roots and
soil intact and covered with burlap (Figure 1b). Still, 90 percent
or more of the roots have been lost. Evergreens and large
trees are often sold B&B. These plants will be more expensive
than bare-root plants because of labor costs both in digging
and handling as well as increased shipping expenses. With
B&B plants, burlap should be tight around root balls, and the
ball should move with the plant as it is tilted.
Container growing is a common method of producing
high quality plants with costs similar to B&B. Less loss from
transplanting container-grown plants occurs since few to no
roots are lost if the plant was grown in the container. Roots
Figure 1a. Figure 1b. Figure 1c.
should not be growing out of container drain holes nor circling
“Bare-Root” plants. “B&B” plants. “Container” or
around the inside of the pot (Figure 1c).
“Potted” plants.
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as their soilless mixes can dry or shed water while the bed
or surrounding soil remains damp. If you have several young
trees and shrubs, a trickle irrigation system would be wise.
Be cautious not to overwater or the amount of oxygen in
the soil will be lowered to a level that will damage roots. Make
certain the timing and patterns of lawn watering systems are
not overlapping into plant beds and too much water is being
applied.
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injuring or girdling a tree. Stake when top-heavy or planted Protective wraps are available and may provide protection by
in windswept areas. modifying temperatures for thin-barked trees. Plastic wraps
If a tree needs to be staked, use no more stakes than may provide better protection than paper wraps against lawn
absolutely necessary. Leave the tree as much freedom to mower, weed-eater, and rodent damage. If misused, however,
move as possible. As the tree flexes or “exercises,” it develops damage may occur in the form of trunk girdling or constriction,
greater strength faster (trunk broadens faster when sway is insects, diseases, and excessive bark moisture.
allowed). Do not make the trunk rigid. Also, do not run wires Protective wraps may not be necessary at planting time.
or anything else around the trunk. Instead, use material that Use based on the type of protection needed. Normal application
is broad, smooth and somewhat elastic. Stakes should be of tree trunk wraps is October to March for the first two growing
placed into solid ground far enough away from the tree so seasons. Wraps should be removed each spring prior to spring
that the tree does not rub against it in the wind. Do not drive growth. During spring growth the trunk expands and increases
stakes into the root ball of the tree or damage to roots may in size. Wraps too tightly wrapped or left on during this time
occur (Figure 4). may result in constriction to the trunk. Tree wraps should be
Use straps of chair webbing made of plastic or cotton fiber applied loosely from base up to the first branch by overlapping
available commercially that already have grommets inserted for a shingle effect (Figure 5). Plastic wraps should fit loosely
through the ends. Then, put the wire through the grommet and and include holes or slits for good air movement. Periodically
tie it to a stake. This soft webbing material is less abrasive inspect the wraps for trunk damage and insects.
than the hose and wire method in common use. Seedling trees and shrubs or young plants may need a
Triple staking provides more protection against strong shelter from weather extremes during either the winter or sum-
wind. Support stakes and guy wires generally should be re- mer. Cheesecloth, burlap, or various other windbreaks can be
moved after one growing season. If staking is left in place for used. Unfortunately, antidesiccants generally do not relieve
more than two years, the tree’s ability to stand alone may be plant stress in Oklahoma in winter or summer (Figure 6).
reduced, and the chances of girdling injury are increased.
Summary
Trunk Protective Materials • Check soil drainage and correct problems found
Young, thin-barked trees such as ash, birch, linden, • Use no amendments in the backfill soil
maples and others often sunscald unless protected. The • Mulch with organic matter such as pine bark or straw
twigs that shade the trunk should be left, but cut back a few • Do not put plastic under mulch
inches so they become denser. A twiggy trunk is preferable • Keep a grass-free circle around young trees for two
to tree wraps, but not all trees have enough twigs, nor is it years
always practical or aesthetically pleasing to leave lower limbs. • Do not prune back the tops of trees except to remove
narrow “V” forks in the main trunks
• Fertilize trees and shrubs on the soil surface only if
necessary as determined by a soil test
• Stake only if necessary
Figure 4. This method in no way damages the tree trunk, Figure 5. Wrapping Figure 6. Protect young plants
unless the webbing is too abrasive or if the wind bangs young trees. from wind and sun.
the tree against the stake.
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Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Robert E. Whitson, Director of Cooperative Exten-
sion Service, Oklahoma State University, Stillwater, Oklahoma. This publication is printed and issued by Oklahoma State University as authorized by the Vice President, Dean, and Director of
the Division of Agricultural Sciences and Natural Resources and has been prepared and distributed at a cost of 20 cents per copy. 0402 RJ Revised.
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