An Insiders Guide To Leathercrafting
An Insiders Guide To Leathercrafting
Chapter One
Introduction to Leather
A History of Leather
Since the dawn of time, leather has played a vital role in the development of civilization. In its various
formats, leather and animal hides have provided for one of the most basic human needs - protection. From
animal hides, man has crafted footwear, clothing, belts, containers, weapons, transportation devices, and
even armor. In the early days of leather usage, unfortunately, animal skins would rot when left wet or in
higher temperatures, and if they were allowed to dry or stored at lower temperatures, they would lose their
ability to flex and have limited use. For this reason, attempts to produce leather that was stronger and more
flexible eventually began. Whether by accident or by trial and error, man discovered methods of softening
and preserving leather by treating animal skins with natural resources. Variations of this process, known as
tanning, have been used to produce better quality material throughout history.
Leather Grades
Each leather hide is unique to the animal from which it came. For this reason, each individual hide has
different natural scars and blemishes, in addition to its unique shape, size, and coloring. Such blemishes and
scars are considered defects, and these defects are what determine the Grade of a side of leather.
A Grade leather allows for 1 or 2 defects in the prime areas and 3 to 4 defects in the non-prime areas. B Grade
leather allows for 3 to 4 defects in the prime areas, as well as 6" to 12" of damage or waste and some small holes
in the non-prime areas of the hide. C Grade allows for more than 12" of damage or waste and color variation.
Utility Grade may have up to 15-20% area of defects including cuts, blemishes and holes.
Tannery Run is a standard method of selling leather which includes a combination of 20% A grade, 50% B
grade, 30% C grade, and 10% utility grade. Remember that the grade of a side of leather will only have an effect
on your yield and waste factor. It will not affect the quality of your leather in any way.
A Grade
B Grade
C Grade
Utility Grade
TR Grade
Chapter Two
1 oz.
0.75
1/64"
0.016
0.41 mm
2 oz.
1.50
1/32"
0.031
0.78 mm
3 oz.
2.25
3/64"
0.047
1.19 mm
4 oz.
3.00
1/16"
0.063
1.6 mm
5 oz.
3.75
5/64"
0.078
1.98 mm
6 oz.
4.50
3/32"
0.094
2.39 mm
7 oz.
5.25
7/64"
0.109
2.78 mm
8 oz.
6.00
1/8"
0.125
3.18 mm
9 oz.
6.75
9/64"
0.141
3.58 mm
10 oz.
7.50
5/32"
0.156
3.96 mm
11 oz.
8.25
11/64"
0.172
4.37 mm
12 oz.
9.00
3/16"
0.188
4.78 mm
13 oz.
9.75
13/64"
0.203
5.17 mm
14 oz.
10.50
7/32"
0.219
5.57 mm
15 oz.
11.25
15/64"
0.234
5.95 mm
16 oz.
12
1/4"
0.250
6.36 mm
Application
Linings, Shoes, Boots, Pouches, Purses,
Gussets, and Garments
* Always remember that leather is a natural material thats not intended for use on products that carry
a high liability or certification of tensile strength. On occasion, leather fibers can become weak without
any visible signs of wear. Fall arrest or safety equipment should never be made with leather constructing
the strength member. More consistent materials like heavy-duty webbing should be used for strength
member construction.
Chapter Three
Chapter Four
Belt Basics
When using a double back to make belts, it can be cut in a variety of ways which minimize your waste. For
example, you may wish to begin by using only one half of the side, cutting belts vertically to your desired
length and utilizing the neck pieces as well. Then, you may cut the second half of the side horizontally for the
rest of your belts. Alternatively, you may cut the first half horizontally until the second half is the desired length
for your belts and then cut the second half vertically to make the rest of the belts. Finally, you may cut the
entire double back vertically or horizontally.
Sides
(based on 35" width)
138
68
44
33
26
21
18
15
Backs
(based on 26" width)
102
50
33
24
19
15
13
12
Double Shoulders
(based on 25" width)
98
48
31
23
18
14
12
11
Double Backs
(based on 52" width)
204
100
66
48
38
30
26
24
If you make straps that are 1-1/4" wide and 72" long, your strap is 90 square inches. To convert square inches to
square feet, divide the 90 square inches by 144 (12" x 12" = 144" inches in a square foot) which will give
you a total of .625 square feet used. At $5.61 per square foot, you will find that your strap has cost you
$3.51 to make. Finally, add the costs of all the hardware, thread, oils, and labor to get the total cost of
your item.
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Chapter Five
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Chapter Six
Overview of Tools
There are an infinite number of tools available for working with leather. Some of the most basic leatherworking
tools include the round knife, the draw gauge, hammers and mallets, shears and scissors, edgers, creasers,
slickers, awls, the cutting block, punches, and stamping tools.
The Cutting Block is, of course, the surface upon which leather is cut. On the cutting block, one uses a Round
Knife, or head knife, to cut leather. The round knife consists of a rounded blade attached to a handle, and it is
pushed through a side of leather in order to make large cuts. Shears and Scissors can also be used to cut the
leather, as well as other difficult materials. The Awl is another pointed instrument used for piercing small holes
into the leather.
The Draw Gauge is used to cut straps, usually of 4" wide or less. Hone the blade of the draw gauge on the side
nearest the guide, as this will help to pull the blade out into the material and also push the strap against the
guide. It is very important to keep the draw gauge sharpened in order to limit leather waste.
The Hammer can be used, of course, to drive tacks and other attachments into the leather. The Mallet is used
with some Punches to drive holes into the leather, as well as with Stamping Tools, which drive designs, letters,
and images into the leather. It may also be used anywhere that a cushioned blow to the leather is necessary.
In addition to hand tools, there are several machines which can aid in leathercrafting. A Slicker, which is made
from dense, close grained wood, is used to smooth the edges of leather strap goods, giving them a
hand-rubbed look. An Edge Painter, as the name implies, is designed to further assist in finishing the edges of
a leather item by painting them with special edge paint. A Creaser is yet another machine designed to provide
a more finished look by adding creases along the edges of leather straps.
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Chapter Seven
Cutting
In leathercrafting, understanding how best to cut a side for your specific project is essential in avoiding waste
and keeping your costs down. Before you begin, know the measurements of your products and take them all
into account as you plan cuts in order to maximize yield. Remember that each hide is different and will require
a different plan. Finally, before you cut your side of leather, remember to check both the grain and the flesh
sides of the leather thoroughly, as nothing is more wasteful than catching a defect after the hide has been cut.
It is always important, whether youre cutting straps for belts, reins, or other miscellaneous projects, to cut
straps that are uniform, straight and precise. This can be done with a draw gauge or a strap cutter. The draw
gauge is used to cut straps by hand, but if you wish to produce large quantities of a strap, a Strap Cutter is
essential. Experts suggest that, when using a strap cutter, it is best to keep the first knife as close to the edge
of the leather as possible without falling off in order to minimize waste.
In addition to the draw gauge and strap cutting, one may choose to Die Cut products. Die cutting is useful if
you need to cut leather in a pattern of shapes rather than in straight straps. It is quick, efficient, and precise,
and it minimizes waste because the die and patterns can be turned and nested into each other.
Stitching
Some leathercrafting projects may be Hand-Stitched, and in such cases, the angle of the hole you cut into the
leather for the purpose of stitching has an effect on the appearance of the stitching. There are several sewing
machines commercially available to stitch heavy leather work. With some machines, it may be critical that the
Needle Stroke and Stitch Length be adjusted. It is always important to match your Needle Size and Thread
Size, as your finished product will have a much better appearance and youll have less frayed thread, thread
breakage and skipped stitches.
13
Additionally, the tightness of the stitch will make your product stronger and longer-lasting. Using a needle that
is too big in thin materials will cause tension issues, while using a needle that is too small in heavy material can
cause needle breakage and result in machine problems.
Tacking
Hand Tacks are a clinching nail, meaning that when the point meets the iron, it begins to curl or clinch back
into the leather, becoming tighter and tighter with each blow from a hammer. Hand tacks are useful if you are
making a keeper for part of a harness or saddle. Even a belt keeper can benefit from tacks. Hand tacks can be
clinched against a forming iron if a keeper is being installed behind a buckle.
Lacing
Leather may be joined together through the process of Lacing. To lace leather, use a spring punch or a drive
punch to make evenly-spaced holes in the leather. There are different measurements for each individual item
to be laced. Holes used to lace stirrup covers, for example, are punched approximately 5/8" apart and 5/8" away
from the edge of the cover using a #6 spring punch. The laces themselves for stirrup covers are approximately
4" long and 3/8" wide. Regardless of the item, once the holes have been punched and the laces cut to size, you
may thread the leather laces through the holes, binding the leather securely.
Braiding
There are a number of ways to Braid leather, but traditional steps to braid anything involve intertwining
three strands of leather. First, the left strand is crossed over the center strand, allowing it to become the center
strand. Next, the right strand is crossed over this new center strand, allowing it to become the center strand.
This process of moving the left and right strands over the center strand continues until the braid is a desired
length or you reach the end.
Gluing
Leather can sometimes be Glued together, rather than sewn to make a continous strap. To do so, first feather
the ends of the two leather pieces you wish to connect using a broad point or round knife. Apply a light but
even coat of common contact cement to both ends of leather. Allow them to dry until they are tacky and then
press them together. It is necessary to avoid using a lot of the contact cement, as the excess will squeeze out
of the spliced leather and make the area around it difficult to color because dyes cannot penetrate the layer of
cement. Contact cement can usually be found at saddlery suppliers, shoe distributers, and craft stores.
Riveting
Craft Rivets, sometimes called speedy rivets or jiffy rivets, are rather expensive, but very easy to use. Copper
rivets are the most expensive rivets by far, but the least expensive and perhaps most widely used is the Tubular
Rivet. It can be set with a handheld punch and a hammer just as easily as it can be loaded into an automatic
setting machine for mass production. Most riveting can be done using 3/8" or 7/16" lengths. Available from
4/16" to 10/16", tubular rivets can be set with a steel cap for fancy appearance, though this increases the cost
if a lot of rivets must be used.
14
Chapter Eight
Tooling
The Swivel Knife is the ideal tool for creating designs in a piece of leather. Most floral designs are fairly basic,
especially the squash blossom, which is perhaps the most common of all. It is made from three basic parts,
including the center of the flower, a central main petal, and two side petals. You may find it preferable to push
your swivel knife when creating flowers, rather than pull it. To create the stems, it is best to keep them as close
to one another as possible without the two running into one another. Leaves are also rather easy to create, as is
the oak leaf acorn design. Lines are best used boldly and simply. Too much detail will ruin the effect of a design
rather than enhance it.
Stamping
Stamping is another method of creating or enhancing leather designs. There are an infinite number of stamps
available, including decorative cut stamps and backgrounders, as well as letters, numbers, and symbols.
Decorative Stamps were designed to assist the leather worker who has trouble maneuvering a swivel knife.
The curved tools aid in cutting circles and scrolls, while the straight tool may be used for both curved and
straight lines. Backgrounders are used to depress background areas in a design, giving it depth. These tools
are held upright and struck firmly with a mallet in order to create the effect. Some of the more prominent
backgrounders include the stippler, the bar grounder, the seed, the half-seed, and the matting styles. The
stippler is used to create the effect of foliage or shadow. The bar grounder is typically used in smaller spaces,
and the impressions should not overlap. The seed and half-seed are useful in larger background areas. The
matting style backgrounders may be used to create many different effects, such as a basket weave, forest depths,
and other general backgrounds.
15
16
Chapter Nine
Antiquing
Base coat Antiquing gives your product a rich and multi-toned finish, and Fiebings products are the choice
of many professionals. To achieve this finish, begin by spraying an even overall base coating of any Fiebings
leather dye onto your product. If preferred, you may apply shading to further enhance or emphasize your
design. Once your product has dried completely, buff the surface to remove any remaining pigment from
the surface, then apply a coat of Fiebings Antique Finish. Before the Antique Finish dries, remove any excess
pigments or finish and buff the leather. Once the dye is completely dry, you may apply a finish to your product.
17
supplies, especially those which might contain residual finishes from other projects, so as not to risk damaging
the current project. Have all applicators, including brushes and sponges, nearby for easier access. Keep paper
towels, a lined trash can, and a small dish of water readily available for cleaning and removing excess finish.
You will likely need to practice with the finish on a scrap piece of leather in order to avoid ruining or damaging
your product with too much or too little finish.
Always read the directions for each finish prior to starting a project. Begin by dipping the end of the applicator
usually a sponge into the finish, starting at the top and working your way downward. Apply the finish
quickly and freely, making certain to work it into tiny areas as well as larger ones. If the finish you are using
contains wax, take care not to allow wax to build up in the tooling and carving. You may dip the applicator into
the finish as often as necessary, but be certain to spread the finish evenly.
18
Chapter Ten
19
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