Continuous Dyeing Range
Continuous Dyeing Range
Monforts provide
energy solutions
Contents
New premises
Advert
Heat recovery
Italian textile producers reap benefits of heat recovery
Germany
All new Montex solution a first for BWF Protecs
special requirements
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India
We will therefore be
giving special emphasis to
energy saving solutions
and environmental
protection at ITMA
2011.
Turkish delight
India
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Indonesia
On parade in Indonesia
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Spain
Monforts technologists a hidden gem
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Turkey
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Germany
Custom made solutions
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Technical article
Rolland Hampel,
Managing Director
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India
Continuous dyeing range with Econtrol for NSL Textiles
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India
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Energy Towers
Six Energy Towers for Nishat Mills
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Teleservice
Issued by
A. Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG
BlumenbergerStrasse 143 145, D-41061
Mnchengladbach,Germany
www.monforts.de
[email protected]
Editors: Klaus A Heinrichs, John Hooper, Peter Tolksdorf
Photography: Joem Promotions
Layout & Design: Alan Humphrey
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China
Happy in Shenzhen but hold the snake!
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Austria
No Massifs in Shenzhen
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Indonesia
Taking the lead in Indonesia
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New premises
fice spaces.
The new, uniform structure has
helped to optimize cooperation and
teamwork by enabling a more regular exchange between the departments, making communication easier.
The Schlafhorst Businesspark in
Mnchengladbach is a location with
a long tradition in the textile industry. This is where the well-known
textile machinery builder Schlafhorst
once built its spinning machines.
Oerlikon Textile still produces here
today, although it is planning to relocate its production next year.
We are pleased that the locations textile tradition, which has
been shaped by Schlafhorst for so
many years, is to be carried on by
another company with a long tradition, explains Businesspark head
Josef Hellenbrand and has actively
supported the Monforts move. We
New premises
Production hall
The 2700m production hall is
where all the work leading up to a
work here.
The mechanical design department was previously divided between two floors but has now been
brought together on a single floor.
Here too, there has been a significant improvement in dialogue. Dirk
Heat recovery
Gallarate facility, has been consuming 83m/h. If evaluated as an 8chamber unit it equates as 111
m/h.
In comparison, Clericis 8-chamber Montex 6500 with heat recovery
is consuming just 55m /h; providing
a significant reduction of 56 m/h.
The second company, lining fashion wear producer, TMR Cederna
Fodere SpA has two Montex stenters
in its finishing operation, one a Montex 5000 without heat recovery and
the second, a Montex 6500 fitted
with heat recovery.
The 5-chamber Montex 5000
consumes 37m/h which, if calculated as an 8-chamber stenter,
equates at 59m/h. Gas consump-
logo
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India
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On parade in Indonesia
South East Asias largest integrated vertical textilegarment manufacturing company and one of the
worlds leading producers of military uniforms, P.T.
Sri Rejeki lsman, has commissioned its two latest
Montex stenters; making a total of eight Montex
stenters at the Indonesian producers facility.
Recognised as South East Asias
largest integrated vertical textile-garment manufacturing company and
one of the worlds leading producers
of military uniforms, P.T. Sri Rejeki
lsman, Sritex now has eight Montex
Iwan S. Lukminto,
President, P.T Sri Rejeki Isman
stenters; all ordered through local
representative P.T. Primatek Technologies.
Originally founded by Mr. Lukminto in 1966 as a market trader in
Solo city textile market, he sold fabrics
from a 3m x 3m stall.
From these humble beginnings,
Mr. Lukminto started a dyeing process
for hand piece dye fabrics from home.
By 1970 he had moved into a new
factory introducing more advanced
dyeing and printing techniques before
moving to larger premises in 1978.
During the 70s the company introduced finishing using a mix of
Japanese and Taiwanese stenters and
introducing its first European marque.
Recognising the quality attained
with the superior European manufactured stenters, Mr. Lukminto introduced the companys first Monforts
Montex stenter in the early 1990s.
Today, in addition to the Montex
stenters, the company also has a
Thermex and Sanforiser in its production process.
According to the founders son
and Company President, Iwan S. Lukminto, we have grown to recognise
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Germany is today still a key customer, with the Bundeswehr Authority bi-annually inspecting quality and
systems, environmental issues,
compliance with human rights and
company social responsibilities.
Finishing Process
Each Montex stenter receives at
least two passes and frequently
three, confirmed Iwan.
The first for setting, and the second for finishing, however with so
many special treatments, a third
pass is frequently necessary.
These treatments can include
water repellent, insect repellent,
flame retardant, stain defender, anti
infra-red and breathable finishes for
the uniform fabrics.
The fabrics pass through the
stenter at speeds dependant on the
weight. Typically for example, a
140 gm/m fabric will run at
70m/min. Fabric weights of between 100 gm/m - 400 gm/m are
processed.
For the camouflage fabrics both
a dye and print process can be
used printing up to twelve colours.
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Spain
logo
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this to be difficult.
Almost immediately we started
to see the influx of textiles from
China and the decline in the Spanish
market with the transfer to Asia.
Despite a slight recovery in 2007
when Spanish textile companies
had recognised that to survive it
needed to increase its production
and quality, offering more value
added products, smaller batches and
faster deliveries for the fashion industry, it proved short-lived.
New merger
During 2007 we further recognised
that with the downturn, we needed
World recession
The small recovery of 2007 was soon
to be halted in 2008/9 and the world
recession. Despite 2010 showing
signs of a new recovery, Spain still
has problems with no investment in
new equipment and banks are still
ITMA 2011
Whilst 2005 saw the demise of the
Spanish textile industry as we knew
it, we will see a return but it will be
smaller. ITMA will help to provide a
realisation for survival.
Where so many of the former
textile barons closed their mills and
sold the land for redevelopment,
Local representation
Since its appointment as the local
representative in 1971. Aguilar has
enjoyed considerable success. Today
energy costs undoubtedly play an
important role. But, according to
Carlos, perhaps even more paramount is the efficiency and reliability
of the stenter with speed, quality and
productivity key factors together with
low maintenance.
For Monforts, one of the
strongest advantages, not offered by
its competitors, is the assistance provided to customers by its technologists, led by Thomas Pffgen, Kurt
van Wersch and Peter Tolksdorf.They
Turkish delight
Turkish dyeing and finishing of synthetic knitted
fabrics specialist Yalcin Tekstil has installed a third
Montex.
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Custom made
solutions
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Indias
commission
dyers meet
demand for
open-width
knits
In order to meet demand for openwidth knits, Indias commission
dyers in the countrys main
knitwear centre of Tirupur which
provides up to 20% of the Nations
textiles export earnings are seeing the introduction of a new finishing concept with Montex
stenters.
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Technical Article
Fig.2
pH
Disperse dyes, PES
Sensitive to alkali
pH 4-6
Reductive clearing is
necessary to optimise
fastness properties
Fixation of dry goods
at 200 -220 C
Reactive dyeings have to be fixed in
an alkaline medium usually soda ash
alone or in combination with caustic
soda are used to set the pH at 10.813.5. This greatly reduces the yield
of common disperse dyes (Fig. 1)
Fig.1
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Sensitivity to reduction
Some reactive dyes are extremely
sensitive to reducing agents. This
sensitivity is found at all steps in the
process, especially after application
of the dyes. Although some disperse
dyes are sensitive to reduction during the dyeing phase, reductive
clearing is normally carried out after
g/l
soda ash
50%
salt
soaping auxiliary
PES/CO
315 g/m
60% in dye
bath and 70%
in chemical bath
Machinery utilisation:
70-90%
depending on
type of machine
Batch size:
1,200 m
Output per day:
20,000 m
Fig.3
Fig.4
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Technical Article
Fig.5
Fig.6
from the ecological and economic
viewpoint is most likely to comprise
one-bath application of reactive and
disperse dyes.
Since this is so obvious, there
have been many attempts in the
past to find a suitable one-bath
process.
Back in 1967 Kuth/Hildebrand
(Bayer AG) described a one-bath
thermosol-thermofixation process
(TT process) using disperse and reactive dyes.
In 1977 ICI (later Zeneca) published the NT (neutral thermofixation) process based on specially
developed Procion T reactive dyes
that could be fixed in neutral conditions. This was followed by process
recommendations
based
on
dichlorotriazine reactive dyes.
Due to their very high reactivity,
these dyes (Procion MX) could be
fixed with extremely small amounts
of alkali. ICI also published the RTN
process, which used sodium bicarbonate and urea to apply Dispersol
and Procion CX dyes (monochlorotriazine reactive groups).
Again, this was essentially a conventional thermosol-thermofixation
process.
Finally a patent (P 28 09 675.5)
submitted by Bayer AG in 1978 described a process for one-bath dyeing of PES/cellulosic fibres in neutral
conditions.
The idea behind all these
processes was that the thermosol
phase could be used to bond the reactive dyes to the cellulosic fibre.
However, interaction with auxiliaries
such as urea and dispersing agents
and the disperse dyes could not be
entirely excluded. Besides, they all
required the use of dicyandiamide,
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Fig.8
Fig.7
costs.
The consumption data for the
Econtrol T-CA process clearly
demonstrate its benefits: because it
does not use separate baths and reduction clearing is not necessary,
the process saves large amounts of
chemicals, water and energy. The
example given above shows a reduction of 86% in chemical consumption based on daily production
of 20,000 m. The process also uses
63% less water and 49% less energy (Fig. 6).
These data are reflected in production costs. On this basis, the
Fig.9
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Econtrol
The Econtrol process was developed for reactive dyestuffs to meet
the trend of smaller batch sizes per
colour in continuous dyeing and to
simplify procedures. The process is
a simple, quick and economical
one-pass, pad-dry-wash with drying in the Thermex hot flue at 120130C and controlled humidity to
obtain fixation in 2-3 minutes.
Benefits make it an ideal choice
for short or long batch dyeing offering a full colour range with excellent reproducibility.
An Indian company that has grown from its origins in the cotton seeds business to become the countrys
most vertically integrated textiles and garments manufacturer is using Monforts technology
with a purpose-ordered continuous dyeing range and Econtrol system - to achieve its aim of becoming one
of the top producers in India and to launch its own apparel brand for the retail sector.
NSL Textiles Ltd has installed a new
continuous dyeing range at its
newly opened plant that has been
constructed on a greenfield site at
Chandolu, near Guntur in Andhra
Pradesh.
The range comprises a Thermex
6500, two Monfortex 8000 sanforisers and two Montex stenters
equipped with coating heads, plus
an Econtrol system for further dyeing options.
All the Monforts equipment at
NSL has been supplied and installed by the representative for
India, ATE Enterprises Private Limited (ATEEPL).
The Chandolu mill was inaugurated in the second half of last year,
when all the equipment was installed with the exception of the
Econtrol, which was commissioned
earlier this year.
This is the sixth textiles plant operated by NSL, but the other five are
all spinning mills, and the Chandolu
mill is the first to process and dye
fabrics and consequently the first to
employ a production range of Monforts equipment.
. This line
gives us the
capacity and fast
dyeing times that
we require.
NSL Group
NSL Textiles is part of the Hyderabad-based NSL Group, founded in
1973 as Nuzeevidu Seeds Ltd and
which is now the largest cotton
seed company in India. NSL is a
producer of high-quality hybrid
seeds that supply some 45% of the
market and which produce some of
the best quality cotton in India.
No textile company can claim
to be as vertically integrated as we
are, says NSL Textiles director Ajay
Kumar Paturi. We describe ourselves as being from cotton to
clothing, and our production covers
everything from the extraction of
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Top 3 target
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Energy | Towers
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Adil Ghani,
General
Manager-Plant,
Nishat Mills
dyed shirting
and work
wear.
The advantage achieved by the
customized design of its machines is
the result of an extensive research
work with the help of world
renowned machine manufacturers.
The standards are higher than ever,
dedicated by fashion, efficient productivity and further automation is
engineered in the plant.
Nishat Dyeing and Finishing is
considered to be one of the best and
largest dyeing plants in south East
Asia with a strong customer base. It
enjoys good relationships with all
major retailers of the world.Their extraordinary R&D work and highly
trained marketing and technical personnel are key to sustaining long
term business relationships.
Three lines of Thermosol continuous dyeing machines, with the capacity for dyeing with Vat, Reactive,
Sulphur and Pigment dyestuffs maintain the highest quality standards.
NDF installed two Thermosol
units in 2000, each with five chambers and a working width of 180cm.
A third Thermex was installed in
2006.
Two 10 chamber Montex stenters
were also installed in 2000, each
with a working width 200cm, followed by a third Montex 6000 in
2006.
All three stenters are oil heated
with the average production at 85 100m/min and an average of
270gsm fabric weight.
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Monfongs | China
Teleservice
08.05am
European Central Time
Hello Christoph...
As lunch time approaches in
New Delhi, a dyehouse manager is
worried that his machine may overheat as the temperature in India
climbs. Hes guided through the procedures to prevent a breakdown.
08.10am
European Central Time
Good afternoon
Wolfgang..
Its past two in the afternoon in
Shanghai and this customer needs a
range of settings to be virtually
checked.
08.15am
European Central Time
Merhaba, good
morning, could I speak
to Michael please? Its
Ahmet in Ankara.
Weve been running
the morning shift for a
couple of hours now
and I need him to just
look at something for
me.
Happy in Shenzhen
but hold the snake!
For Jens Paul, a move to China
eight years ago has resulted in
great happiness both at home and
at work.
Firstly, the textile machine engineer found employment with Monfongs, the Monforts Chinese joint
venture partner, and then he fell in
love at first sight with Min Zhou,
who is now his wife.
Today, the happily married couple have a young son and live in
Shenzhen, where Monfongs also
has its headquarters.
Jens Paul
Michael Sieberichs
emails are responded to.
There are days when the telephone never stops ringing, says
Michael, but I wouldnt change
jobs again.
The demands of his role have
certainly become a little easier with
the introduction by Monforts of improved remote visualisation for the
companys machines, with a better
screen view and much easier operation.
As a result mill managers no
longer need to be in front of their
08.25am
European Central Time
Bom dia!
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Austria | Montex
Wide-width textiles
No Massifs in
Shenzhen
All wide width and special purpose
Monforts stenters including the latest Montex 8000 to be introduced
at ITMA 2011, in addition to sanforising and continuous dyeing
ranges, are manufactured at Montex, the groups subsidiary located
in St. Stefan, in the Lavanttal Valley
in the central southern Austrian
Alps.
And right now, business is
booming to such an extent that
for Karl Charly Krammer there has
been little time to pursue his love
of outdoor sports.
We are snowed under with orders at the moment, he reports,
and we are working non-stop and
at full capacity. Almost one hundred
per cent of our production is exported, with the bulk of the machines going to the Far East,
Pakistan and Turkey.
The machines made by the employees at Montex are manufactured in easily transportable
components, he explains, and
shipped via Bremen or Hamburg to
be assembled at the plant of the
customer.
As a trained machine fitter,
Charly began his apprenticeship at
Monforts in 1978 and moved into
field service in 1987. He is now coordination manager of production
and also responsible for providing
technical support to the Monforts
joint venture in China.
In this role he flies to Shenzhen
every couple of months and when
in China is generally busy around
the clock. But even when he does
have free time, theres another
problem.
Shenzhen, located in the Pearl
River Delta, bordering Hong Kong
to the south, was originally a hilly
area, but after becoming a special
economic zone in 1979, underwent
a tremendous change in landscape.
The once hilly fishing village is now
replaced by mostly flat ground with
very few area of elevation.
Hendra Tedjawisastra
Surrounded by residential and
commercial properties meant no additional land was available for expansion.
The company has therefore located to a 2ha green field site in
Karawang, some 80km north of
Bandung and 55km south of
Jakarta.
Complying with the latest environmental green regulations, the
new factory has its own water recycling facility, filtering water before
passing it through to the industrial
complexs own recycling operation
to ensure totally clean water.
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