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Ploughshare Village: Culture and Context in Taiwan
Ploughshare Village: Culture and Context in Taiwan
Village
CULTURE
AND CONTEXT
IN TAIWAN
Stevan Harrell
WITH A NEW PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR
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Ploughshare
Village
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Ploughshare
Village
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culture
and context
in taiwan
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Stevan Harrell
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Contents
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3. Social Inequality
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4. Community Relations
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5. Family Organization
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182
Conclusion
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Glossary 215
Bibliography 219
Index 227
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Illustrations
of
Photographs
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Blacksmith Gulch
A typical tiam-khi house; Ploughshares Front Street
A pushcart railway; villagers picking tea
Family selling pork; an automatic knitting machine
A general store
A wealthy businessman and his son
A bridal couple, 1973; the bride five years later
Grandmothers caring for their grandchildren
A storekeeper and his children
The gods Ang Kong and Tho-te Kong
A puppet show; burning incense to the gods
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Maps
Map of Taiwan
Opening of Cultivation in the Southern Taibei Basin
Southern Taibei Basin and Major Sanxia Mines
Ploughshare Village, 1973 and 1978
Territorial Organization of Gods Birthday Celebrations
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In July 1972 my wife, Barbara, and I, together with our nine-monthold daughter, Cindy, moved into the working-class village of Lei-cibe, which I translated into English as Ploughshare, planning to do a
little more than a year of fieldwork. Barbara, a recent college graduate
already planning a career in medicine, wanted to experience local life
as a village mother, cooking and washing, while doing some research
on the side about breast-feeding. Our stay, however, did not work out
as planned.
To be sure, the presence of my family alleviated some of the suspicion that communities have often felt toward young foreigners engaging in what to them was an incomprehensible enterprise, and our
fat, white baby girl melted the hearts of a lot of local people. But there
was the matter of pathogens, and Cindy had intermittent bouts of respiratory disease until November, when one of them turned her blue
and we decided it was time to bail. It had not helped that I was so
obsessed with doing good fieldwork that I sometimes dumped unnecessary burdens on my family. So Barbara and Cindy returned to the
United States, and I stayed in Ploughshare until the following April,
managing to finish a version of my research. It got me a job at the
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Skip to April 2005. On one of my periodic visits to the now prosperous and wealthy Taiwan, I visited Ploughshare again and presented a
slide show in the community hall, showing pictures from the 197273
and 1978 field trips. Lee Yen-ying, a local schoolteacher who had been
a child during my fieldwork year, prepared a colorful poster to advertise the evening event, and fifty or sixty people of all ages showed
up. I had been back several times in the interim, so there was little
that surprised me about the physical setting, though people had, of
course, aged greatly. Only a few remained from the older generation,
who had been so forthcoming with their observations and analyses
to the young fieldworker I once was. The children captured in the
slides, running and laughing, were now responsible adults sitting
quietly in the rows of folding chairs, while a new generation of children watched with little idea of what Ploughshare had been like in the
time of their grandparents.
I have continued to go back to Ploughshare and nearby Sanxia,
most recently in 2010. Everything is, of course, modern now in Taiwan; most families have all the amenities of contemporary life, including cars, air-conditioning, and the Internet. Two traffic lights regulate
both the fleets of trucks shuttling to and from the numerous low-tech
factories that now dot the former farmland of Cap-sa:-thi immediately
to the south, and the streams of weekend tourists headed out in the
family car to fish, splash, hike, and barbecue in the mountains be-
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yond. The Ciam family store was still there, selling a little fresh food
and a little this and that, but since 2007 it had had to compete with the
7-Eleven store a few meters up the street.
The region has been transformed along with the village. The former bumpy bus ride from Taipei to Sanxia on crowded two-lane
roads is now a twenty-minute drive on the freeway (outside of rush
hour at least), and Sanxia itself is a doughnut. The outer ring consists
of high-rise apartment buildings and three- and four-story commercial-residential properties, along with the campus of Taipei University in the former rice fields between the town and Ganyuan. In the
hole of the doughnut, the Old Town is still centered on the Zushi
Temple and the former Store Street (Tiam-a Kei). The temple is now
an architectural and cultural tourist destination as well as a place for
festival and individual worship of the Ancestral Teacher. The street,
now called the Old Street, was lovingly redeveloped by the Ministry
of Cultural Construction at the turn of the century, and accurate replicas of Taisho-period storefronts sell croissants, for which Sanxia has
become famous, along with such exotic products as Puer tea. There
are several galleries and museums.
If the built environment is thoroughly transformed after forty
years, the social environment is even more so. Previously, older men
were literate mainly in Japanese, and older women were not literate
at all; now everyone is expected to go to college. Many of the children pictured in my old Ploughshare slides have moved out to pursue careers in nearby cities, returning to the ancestral village only
on weekends to visit their aging parents. Perhaps the most important change is that Taiwan no longer has an urban-rural divide. In
the 1970s, conversation in Ploughshare, especially among older and
middle-age people, had much to do with kinship, marriage, and what
so-and-so said about such-and-such within the community. People
knew about international politics, gold prices, and the latest political
gossip, but these were things of the outside, and even going to Taipei meant entering a slightly alien world. By the late 1980s or 1990s,
however, there was a single society and a single culture among young
adults and adolescents. Although metropolitan Taipei was richer and
more prestigious than a peripheral town like Sanxia, let alone the former coal miners village of Ploughshare, they were all part of a newly
democratic, very egalitarian Taiwan obsessed with the politics of ethnicity and nationalism and with the quest to make money.
Even international differences have been bridged. Then, China was
the Communist enemy that the Guomindang (Nationalists; Kuomintang) was going to counterattack; now, just about everyone has visited China as a tourist, and many people have lived there for months or
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years as part of the Taiwanese business and manufacturing community. Barbara and I have three times entertained people from Ploughshare at our home in Seattle, including a graduate student in clinical
psychology and the family of a dentist with three successful clinics,
one of them across the street from Taipei University in Sanxia. Renaming Taipei County as New Taipei City in 2010 symbolized the fusing of urban and rural communities and cultures into a single Taiwan
society: urban, wealthy, and educated; cosmopolitan, democratic, and
contentious. Ploughshare is now as much a part of that Taiwan as
anywhere else is; in some ways it is more a neighborhood than a community in the sense in which I portrayed it in Ploughshare Village.
The world of the village as village is thus gone now, and we might
ask what we still have to learn from a book written about what it was
like in another time. When I wrote Ploughshare Village, I was interested in questions of household economy, of social structure, and, as
the subtitle suggests, of how social, political, and geographic contexts
shape culture and everyday behavior. I was also interested in adaptation, in how a culture and society imported to Taiwan from China
had adapted and changed over the course of 150 years of East Asian
history. And I was interested in contributing to Chinese studies, a
field of study that had been exiled, since the Communist revolution
in 1949, from the inaccessible Peoples Republic to the peripheries of
the Sinic world in Hong Kong and Taiwan.
These questions seem quaint in 2015. In 1999 I published a retrospective reflection on what I called the golden age of China ethnography, noting that anthropological works written about Taiwan
between the 1950s and 1980s carry three biases of their times, which I
called cultural holism, adaptationism, and synchronicism (Harrell
1999, pp. 21421). Because Ploughshare Village is also a product of that
time, it too is partly a product of these biases, which I would like to
briefly examine here.
C U LT U R A L HOLI S M
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A DA P T A T I ON I S M
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Another unfortunate bias is the assumption that this thing, this cultural whole, adapts to changing political and economic circumstances
rather than somehow being part of them. I point the arrows of causation in a single direction, from the outside world of the Guomindang,
the East Asian political economy, and the trends of global modernization (the term globalization was not yet widely used) to the changes in
religion, social structure, and family economy that are the topics of
the book. In my analysis, the people of Ploughshare carried Chinese
culture from somewhere else to Ploughshare Point, where the village
sits, and adapted it. This made the culture described in Ploughshare
Village into a variation on a larger Chinese theme, rather than something to be described and analyzed in its own right.
S YN C HR ON I C I S M
It is striking, looking back from the present day, that the ethnographies of the golden age, including Ploughshare Village, assumed not
only that there was a cultural whole that adapted to the cultures context but also that this cultural whole somehow did not change. An example I brought up in my 1999 article shows this very clearly. In those
days, most of us were obsessed with the simplistically Durkheimian
notion that whatever religion meant for the individual believer, it reflected the structure of society. And thus the bureaucracy of higherand lower-level deities naturally reflected the imperial bureaucracy
of the Qing dynasty. But we neglected the obvious fact that the people
of Taiwan in the 1960s and 1970s had not lived under the imperial
bureaucracy for two and a half generations, and we thus passed over
the equally obvious question of why people who had been educated
in Japanese and then in Mandarin by two different colonial governments, both of which dismissed Taiwans folk religion as backward
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If the theoretical/political critique of functionalist ethnography compelled at least a partial move away from synchronicism, adaptationism,
and cultural holism in writing the ethnography of Taiwan-as-China, it was
changes in Taiwan itself that pushed ethnography the rest of the way. The
Taiwan Miracle of course came first, and foreigners who visited Taiwan
in the late 80s after sojourns in China realized that there had not just been
adjustments around the edges, adaptation of old wine in new bottles, but
a profound and thorough transformation. As early as 1988 and 1989 I was
amazed to find vacation villas for the rich in sight of Ploughshare Village,
villagers running tourist attractions, four-story houses with hardwood
floors and designer furniture, and more profoundly, a young-adult generation whose world was simply much wider and more complex than that of
their grandparents. No family lived entirely in the village anymore, either
physically or mentally. Ordinary people, many of them with college education and technical or professional jobs, no longer tried to figure out what
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I was doing there, but in fact helped me design and carry out my survey
research. It was simply no longer possible to write about anything except as
an aspect of change, of history, of the narrative (no longer the blueprint), of
a family, a place, or an occupation.
This, however, was only part of it. The other part was the freeing of
social and political discourse about Taiwan. From not being able to mention February 28 to having it declared a holiday, from one-party dictatorship and elections that were nothing but patronage contests to having a
party spin off to the right of the Guomindang, with its support mainly
from young professionals rather than grumpy old army officers, from
Taiwan province to just Taiwan to thoughts, at least, of somedayall this
disrupted the possibility of a Chinese culture that encompassed Taiwan. In
the midst of the identity debates, which raged for decades on cable TV and
not just in intellectual magazines or scholarly journals, it became downright ludicrous to hold to the old assumptions of cultural holism. Common
threads, of coursethis is why Taiwanese business investors do so much
better in China than Westerners do, and why even the Taiwan nationalist
hero Peng Ming-min had no trouble acknowledging his Chinese roots in a
1996 TV presidential debate. But commonalities, connections, similarities
and differences, all these are a far cry from the net of Chinese culture or the
set of uniform cultural principles that guided ethnographic writing in the
Golden Age.
And finally, not only was Taiwan freed from the shackles of having to
represent China; China was freed from its imaginary confinement in the
very small space of Taiwan. In the early 1980s, a few American anthropologists were given the opportunity to do fieldwork in China; by about 1986
the gates were wide open, and just about everyone who had contributed
to the Golden Age on Taiwan at least tried his or her hand at China. Some
stayed and some returned, but nobody investigating Taiwan was doing so
anymore because China was inaccessible, and nobody who wanted to know
about China was forced to come to Taiwan as a surrogate. We were free to
draw connections where we saw them, but not to assume them in advance
of the ethnographic enterprise. The only unfortunate aspect of this change
in scholarly habits was that people stopped paying so much attention to
Taiwan [Harrell 1999, pp. 22325].
Given the dated nature of Ploughshare Villages theoretical and conceptual assumptions, what can we gain from reading it in the twentyfirst century? I think there is still plenty.
Probably most important, there are just the facts. Of course, the
theoretical context of the time a book is written partly determines
which facts are there, but the ones that are there can be useful for
several reasons. First and perhaps ironically, those ahistorical facts
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