Professional Documents
Culture Documents
1465411534
1465411534
PORTUGAL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
PORTUGAL
Main Contributor Martin Symington
Contents
How to use this Guide 6
Project Editor Ferdie McDonald
Art Editor Vanessa Hamilton
Editors Caroline Ball, Francesca Machiavelli
Designers Anthea Forlee, Carolyn Hewitson,
Nicola Rodway, Dutjapun Williams
Main Contributors
Susie Boulton, Christopher Catling, Clive Gilbert, Marion Kaplan,
Sarah McAlister, Alice Peebles, Carol Rankin, Norman Renouf, Joe Staines,
Robert Strauss, Nigel Tisdall, Tomas Tranus, Edite Vieira
Photographers
Joe Cornish, Paul Harris, Robert Reichenfeld,
Linda Whitwam, Peter Wilson, Francesca Yorke
Illustrators
Richard Draper, Paul Guest, Stephen Gyapay, Claire Littlejohn, Maltings Partnership,
Isidoro Gonzlez-Adalid Cabezas/Acanto Arquitectura y Urbanismo S.L.,
Paul Weston, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China
First American Edition 1997
13 14 15 16 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
Reprinted with revisions 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006,
2008, 2010, 2012, 2014
Introducing
Portugal
Discovering
Portugal 10
Putting Portugal on
the Map 18
A Portrait of Portugal 20
The History of
Portugal 40
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-1-46541-153-2
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage;
ie the first floor is one floor up.
Portugal through
the Year 34
Lisbon
Introducing Lisbon
64
Alfama 70
Baixa and Avenida
82
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source
of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL or email: [email protected].
Bairro Alto
and Estrela 90
Belm 102
Further Afield 114
Shopping in Lisbon 128
Entertainment in
Lisbon 130
Lisbon Street Finder 132
Central Portugal
Introducing Central
Portugal 148
The Lisbon Coast 154
Estremadura and
Ribatejo 176
The Beiras 200
Portugals Islands
Survival Guide
Introducing Portugals
Islands 340
Madeira 346
General Index 450
The Azores 364
Travellers Needs
Where to Stay 380
Where to Eat and
Drink 396
Shopping in Portugal 416
Entrance to the chapterhouse at Alcobaa
monastery, Estremadura
Northern
Portugal
Entertainment in
Portugal 420
Road Map
Inside back cover
Introducing Northern
Portugal 230
Douro and
Trs-os-Montes 238
Minho 268
Southern
Portugal
Introducing Southern
Portugal 290
Alentejo 296
Algarve 320
Lisbon
Lisbon has been divided into
five main sightseeing areas.
Each of these areas has its own
chapter, which opens with a list
Area Map
For easy reference, the sights
covered in the chapter are
numbered and located on
a map. The sights are also
marked on the Street Finder
maps on pages 13245.
LISBON
103
BELM
relatively green suburb with many museums,
parks and gardens, as well as an attractive
riverside setting with cafs and a promenade.
On sunny days there is a distinct seaside feel
to the embankment.
Before the Tagus receded, the monks in
the monastery used to look out onto the river
and watch the boats set forth. In contrast,
today several lanes of traffic along the busy
Avenida da ndia cut central Belm off from
the picturesque waterfront, and silver and
yellow trains rattle regularly past.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
2 Museu Nacional dos Coches
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
6 Planetrio Calouste Gulbenkian
7 Museu de Marinha
0 Museu de Arte Popular
Monuments
9 Monument to the Discoveries
Cultural Centres
8 Centro Cultural de Belm
Historic Buildings
1 Palcio de Belm
q Torre de Belm p112
t Palcio Nacional da Ajuda
C. DO
M IR A N T E
A
UD
AJ
AJ UDA
RC O
I
R
ZA
AL
N
DO
RI
DA
LA
NE
EA
CA
BEL
M
UR
DE
EN
ER
EIA
DA
RR
O
BA R T
AVEN
IDA
LO
PRAA
DO
IMPRIO
IDA
O
A C
ME
V IL
RUA
RUA
ME
DE
B E L M
AL
R U A S O F. X A V I
DE
TORR
E
ISC
EM
A
AJUD
LO
NC
DA
S
4
O
A
IM
N
JER
RU
FRA
DE
RU A 1
S
DO
DO
DOM
15
R.
O
EL
ST
RE
LM
EIDA
OL E NA
DO
R.
NIDA
RUA
EIRA
ALC
DE
T. D
CALAD
A
M AD
A
I D
A V E N
RUA
DA
RUA
AVE
R UA G
O
L HA
DA I
G A LVO
C. DA
A V.
E S T D I O
M U N I C I PA L
DO
R E S T E LO
RUA DAS
MERCS
ME M
VE
CALAD
DA
DI
DA
AS
AVE
NDIA
D A
AV ENI
DE
NID
DA
NDI
Belm
Estao Fluvial
de Belm
IA
SL
BRA
j o
T e
0 metres
0 yards
104
400
400
LISBON
BELM
Street-by-Street: Belm
Street-by-Street Map
This gives a birds-eye view
of the heart of each of the
sightseeing areas.
Tropical
Exotic plants and
trees gathered from
Portugals former
colonies fill these
peaceful gardens that
were once part of the
Palcio de Belm.
105
BELM
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
T R AV E S S A
DOS FERRE
IROS
TA
T. M A R
LARGO
PINTO
DOS
JERNIMOS
3 Jardim Botnico
IO
R
MP
O I
A D
A
PR
RUA DE BELM
Central
Lisbon
RUA VIEIR
A PORTUE
NSE
1 Palcio de Belm
5 Museu Nacional
de Arqueologia
Archaeological finds ranging
from an Iron Age gold
bracelet to Moorish artifacts
are among the interesting
exhibits on display.
Torre
de Belm
(see p112)
110
LISBON
Museu de
Marinha
7
BELM
111
8 Centro Cultural
de Belm
0 metres
the Monument
to the
For between
hotels and restaurants
in this area
see pp38695 and pp398415
50
0 Museu de Arte
50
Popular
0 yards
Praa do
2 . Museu Nacional dos Coches
This 18th-century coach used by the ambassador
to Pope Clement XI is part of the collection in the
old riding school of the Palcio de Belm.
Afonso V
(143281),
patron of the
first explorers
Henry the Navigator
(13941460)
Vasco da Gama
(14601524)
Pedro lvares
Cabral (14671520),
discoverer of Brazil
Ferno Magalhes
(Magellan), who crossed
the Pacific in 152021
Padro erected
by Diogo Co in the
Congo in 1482
Praa Afonso de
Albuquerque is
named after the
first Portuguese
viceroy of India.
A Neo-Manueline
column in the
centre bears his
statue, with scenes
from his life carved
on the base.
Detailed Information
All the sights in Lisbon are described
individually. Addresses and practical
information are provided. The key to
the symbols used in the information
block is shown on the back ap.
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
155
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
ia
o
Te j
SINTRA
Odivelas
Canha
PALCIO DE
QUELUZ
Arieiro
r Palmela
COSTA DA CAPARICA
Barreiro
0 kilometres
0 miles
10
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
SETBAL
guas
de Moura
PALMELA
Marateca
Marco do Grilo
Vila Fresca de
Azeito
4 Serra de Sintra
Lagoa de
Albufeira
Vila Nogueira
de Azeito
Santana
DA
RA
AR
BID
SETBAL
R e s e r va
N a t u ra l d o
Esturio do Sado
Tria
Figueirinha
SE
Alfarim
Ri
Portinho
da Arrbida
SESIMBRA
Nossa Senhora
do Cabo
Key
Poceiro
Pinhal Novo
Santo Antnio
da Charneca
Coina
u Pennsula de Tria
Tours
vora
Moita
Seixal
t Serra da Arrbida
y Setbal
i Alccer do Sal
Canh
a
Rio Frio
Trafaria
e Sesimbra
ira
de
Peges Velhos
PENNSULA
DE TRIA
Palma
Pinheiros
Estao
Pinheiro
Sad
Baa de
Setbal
CABO ESPICHEL
ho
tin
ar
M
Ri
be
ira
Carcavelos
Atalaia
Almada
Oeiras
CASCAIS
w Cabo Espichel
Montijo
Caxias
ESTORIL
Boca do Inferno
Regional Map
This shows the main road
network and gives an
illustrated overview of
the region. All entries are
numbered and there are
also useful tips on getting
around the region.
Samouco
LISBON
0 Alcochete
Rib
e
ALCOCHETE
Guincho
R e s e r va
N a t u ra l d o
E s t u r i o d o Te j o
Sacavm
Belas
Alcabideche
Rio
Malveira da Serra
8 Estoril
Caneas
MONSERRATE
Cabo da
A
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R
6 Sintra pp1627
7 Cascais
So Joo da Talha
COLARES
3 Colares
Pvoa de
Santa Iria
Pero Pinheiro
Loures
Praia das
Mas
5 Monserrate
Alverca do
Ribatejo
Lousa
Ri
oS
or
ra
So Joo das
Lampas
Azenhas do
Mar
1 Palcio de Mafra
157
North
of the Tagus, the beautiful hilltown of Sintra is
Aerial view of a stretch of coastline in the Serra
da Arrbida
2 Ericeira
Getting Around
Sights at a Glance
Portugal
Region By Region
Introduction
A general account of the
landscape, history and
character of each region is
given here, explaining both
how the area has developed
over the centuries and what
attractions it has to
oer the visitor today.
156
de
S
Montalvo
Motorway
Comporta
Secondary road
ALCCER DO SAL
Minor road
Grndola
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
174
Regional border
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
175
E Museu de Arqueologia
Detailed Information
All the important towns and
other places to visit are
described individually. They
are listed in order, following
the numbering given on the
Regional Map. Within each
entry, there is further detailed
information on important
buildings and other sights.
Setbal
do Sado
e Etnografia
Avenida Lusa Todi 162. Tel 265 239
365. Open 9am12:30pm & 25:30pm
TueSat. Closed public hols.
R Igreja de Jesus
Pennsula de
Tria
u
+ Castelo de So Filipe
View over Alccer do Sal and the River Sado from the castle
Environs
Setbal is an
excellent starting
point for a tour by
car of the unspoilt
Reserva Natural do
Esturio do Sado, a
vast stretch of mud
flats, shallow lagoons
and salt marshes
with patches of pine
Alccer do Sal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
164
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
SINTRA
165
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amlia.
Tel 219 106 840. pnsintra.
imc-ip.pt Open 9:30am6pm
daily (23 Mar25 Oct: to 7pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8 &
(free 9:30am1pm Sun).
Chapel
KEY
1 Jardim da Preta, a walled garden
2 Quarto de Dom Sebastio,
the bedroom
3 The Sala das Gals (galleons)
houses temporary exhibitions.
4 The Torre da Meca has
dovecotes below the cornice
decorated with armillary spheres
and nautical rope.
Entrance
10th century
entrance hall
8 Manuel I added the ajimene
First reference
to the palace,
as residence of
Moorish governor
Chapel
Symmetrical Moorish
patterns decorate the
original 15th-century
chestnut and oak ceiling
and the mosaic floor of
the private chapel.
800
restoration of palace;
work is carried out by
Moors living in Colares
1000
14951521 Reign of
Manuel I; major
restoration and
Manueline additions
1200
1385 Joo I orders
complete rebuilding
of central buildings
and kitchens
1400
1683 Afonso VI
dies after being
imprisoned here
for nine years by
brother Pedro II
1600
1755 Parts of
national monument
INTRODUCING
PORTUGAL
Discovering Portugal
1017
2033
3439
4061
10
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
The following itineraries have been designed
to take in as many of Portugals highlights as
possible, while keeping long-distance travel
to a minimum. First come three two-day tours
of, respectively, the vibrant capital Lisbon, the
fascinating city of Oporto and the beautiful
island of Madeira. A one-week itinerary of
northern Portugal and a themed one-week
tour of the Atlantic coastline are next. These
Viana do
Castelo
Praia do
Cabedelo
Oporto
Aveiro
Leiria
Batalha
Nazar
Berlenga
Islands
Peniche
One Week in
Northern Portugal
Immerse yourself in
Guimares, the birthplace
of the nation.
Stand in front of Casa de
Mateus, the manor house
depicted on the labels of
Mateus Ros.
Take the Port Country
Tour through the stunning
Douro Valley, a UNESCO
World Heritage site.
Fishing wharf on the Lisbon waterfront, 1922
bidos
Key
Alcobaa
Lisbon
Atlantic
Ocean
Aljezur
Cabo de
So Vicente
Lagos
Sagres
Peninsula
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
Ponte
da Barca
Ponte
de Lima
11
Parque Nacional
de Peneda-Gers
Braga
Citnia de Briteiros
Guimares
Vila Real
Amarante
Casa de
Mateus
Dour o
Alij
Sabrosa
Pinho
Peso da
Rgua
A Tour of Medieval
Portugal
Coimbra
Conmbriga
Zz
ere
Castelo de Vide
Marvo
Te
Serra de
So Mamede
Portalegre
jo
Estremoz
Elvas
Vila Viosa
0 kilometres
vora
Viana do
Alentejo
50
50
0 miles
Monsaraz
Amieira
Sado
Serpa
Mrtola
Guadia
Silves Alte
Portimo
na
Serra de
Monchique
Caldas de Monchique
Loul
Estoi
Tavira
Faro
Parque Natural
da Ria Formosa
12
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Day 1
Morning Start the day by
taking the Metro to Oriente
Station for Parque das Naes
(p123). From here, its a short
walk to the Oceanrio de
Lisboa (p123), home to
hundreds of aquatic species.
Look out for the bizarre sunfish,
the beautiful and delicate sea
dragon and, uniquely in Europe,
sea otters. Afterwards, enjoy
the views from the cable car
that takes visitors from one end
of the park to the other. Stop
to admire the striking Torre
Vasco da Gama Lisbons
tallest building then break
for lunch at any one of the
promenade restaurants that
overlook the River Tagus.
Afternoon Allow a good
hour to absorb the priceless
collection of art in the Museu
Calouste Gulbenkian (pp118
21). Exhibits include works by
Rubens, Rembrandt and Ren
Lalique. Dont miss the marble
statue of Diana by the French
sculptor Jean-Antoine Houdon.
Afterwards, take a leisurely
downhill stroll towards the
city centre through Parque
Eduardo VII (p117) and along
fashionable Avenida da
Liberdade (p86). For impressive
city views, take a ride on the
Elevador de Santa Justa (p88),
a Neo-Gothic lift that links the
Baixa (downtown) area of
Lisbon with the elegant Chiado
neighbourhood. Take a moment
to contemplate the evocative
ruins of the nearby 14th-century
Igreja do Carmo (p94), badly
damaged by the great
Day 1
Morning Start with a visit to
the S (p246). The cathedrals
Gothic 14th-century cloisters are
particularly striking. The CasaMuseu Guerra Junqueiro (p246)
is located next door. Among the
collections of religious art, rare
ceramics and antique furniture
is a colourful parade of Chinese
dogs. Afterwards, explore the
traditional shops clustered
around Avenida Dom Afonso
Henriques before taking time
to marvel at the azulejos that
decorate the interior of So
Bento Station (p245). Next,
climb the steps of the
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
Arriving Madeira
International Airport is
18 km (11 miles) west of
Funchal. Taxis charge a fixed
fare into the city centre, and
the journey takes around
30 minutes. A shuttle bus
service runs throughout
the day.
Transport A car is essential
for this trip. Taxis can be
hired to follow the same
route but will be expensive.
Booking ahead The Old
Blandy Wine Lodge
Day 1: Funchal
Morning Start the day early to
experience the Mercado dos
Lavradores (p353) at its liveliest.
Afterwards, take the scenic
cable car up to the Jardim
Botnico (p352) and admire the
astonishing display of colourful
sub-tropical flora. On the return
to Funchal, board the cable car
at Monte (p354) and complete
the descent by toboggan. Walk
back to the city centre for lunch
at one of the restaurants near
Avenida M Arriaga.
13
14
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
One Week in
Northern Portugal
Day 1: Oporto
Pick a day from the city itinerary
on pages 1213.
Day 2: Viana do Castelo
Head north to the 13th-century
town of Viana do Castelo
(pp28081). From Praa da
Repblica, the historic quarter is
easily explored on foot. Admire
the Gothic arches of the
restored Paos do Concelho,
formerly the town hall, before
taking in the imposing Igreja
Matriz, the 15th-century parish
church. Shop for handicrafts,
then pack a picnic and head to
the beach of Praia do Cabedelo
(p281). To reach it, cross the river
by ferry or via the road. Round
off the day by visiting the basilica
of Monte de Santa Luzia (p281),
5 km (3 miles) north of the town
centre. From here, you can enjoy
views of Viana and the coast.
Day 3: Ponte de Lima to
Parque Nacional de
Peneda-Gers
Head east out of Viana do
Castelo towards Ponte de
Lima (p278), a picturesque
town on the banks of the
River Lima. Wander the narrow
streets and look out for the
medieval fortifications of the
15th-century Palcio dos
Marqueses de Ponte de Lima.
Amble across the Roman bridge
to the 15th-century church of
Santo Antnio and return later
to browse the traditional openair market for souvenirs. Drive
on to Ponte da Barca (p273) for
a restaurant lunch or consider a
picnic in the tranquil Jardim dos
Poetas (Poets Garden). Carry on
to explore the Parque Nacional
de Peneda-Gers (pp2767),
one of Portugals greatest
natural attractions. If you have
time, visit the traditional villages
of Soajo and Lindoso.
Day 4: Braga
The drive south brings you
to Braga (pp2823). Begin
by visiting the S, the citys
cathedral, which is noted for its
ornate chapel and Baroque
organ. Pause for coffee in the
delightful 19th-century salonstyle Caf Brasileira, then look
out for the impressive 14thcentury Torre de Menagem as
you head for Praa da Repblica,
the central square. Devote the
afternoon to exploring the
sanctuary of Bom Jesus do
Monte (pp2845). Climb the
enormous Baroque Escadaria
(stairway) or ride the vintage
funicular that leads to the
church of Bom Jesus. Return
to Braga for dinner.
Day 5: Guimares and
Citnia de Briteiros
Its a short drive to Guimares
(pp2867), the birthplace of
the nation. Acquaint yourself
with the brooding Castelo de
Guimares before walking
through the Pao dos Duques,
the 15th-century palace built
by Dom Afonso, Portugals
first king. Nearby, the former
monastery of Nossa Senhora
da Oliveira features a beautiful
Romanesque cloister and
overlooks Largo da Oliveira,
where lunch can be enjoyed
alfresco. Use the afternoon
to visit Citnia de Briteiros
(p287), an Iron Age settlement
of impressive dimensions.
Day 6: Amarante to Alij
Head south out of Guimares
to explore Amarante (pp2545).
A walk along the pretty riverfront will lead to the Ponte
de So Gonalo and the
16th-century Igreja de So
Gonalo. Continue east to Vila
Real (p261) for lunch, before
heading to Mateus and the
magnificent Casa de Mateus
(pp26061). This 18th-century
manor house is famously
depicted on the labels of
Mateus Ros wine. Book ahead
for a tour of the ornate interior
and the beautiful landscaped
gardens. The route to Alij
(p259) takes you deep into
port wine country.
Day 7: The Douro Valley
Start early and head for
Sabrosa, another village on
the Port Country Tour route
(pp2589), set above the River
Pinho. Continue south through
countryside combed with
vineyards until you reach
Pinho. Stop here and admire
the fabulous azulejo panels
decorating the railway station.
Next, follow the River Douro
west past numerous wineries,
many of which offer tours and
port-wine tasting, to reach
Peso da Rgua. A leisurely drive
along the banks of the Douro
takes you back to Oporto.
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
15
Day 1: Lisbon
Pick a day from the city itinerary
on page 12.
Day 2: bidos to Peniche
Begin your day with a visit
to the enchanting medieval
hilltown of bidos (pp18081).
Walk the sentry path along
the castle battlements for fine
views of the town centre and
surrounding countryside. Next,
call in at Peniche (p180). A visit
to the Museu de Peniche
includes access to the prison
cells inside the 16th-century
Fortaleza. Later, pack a picnic
lunch and take the ferry to the
Berlenga Islands (p180). Spend
the afternoon on this isolated
archipelago, then head back
for dinner in one of Peniches
famed seafood restaurants.
Day 3: Alcobaa to Nazar
First stop is Alcobaa (pp1845),
for the hallowed 12th-century
16
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
A Tour of Medieval
Portugal
Delve into the Alentejo and
discover a region of vast
rolling plains peppered with
whitewashed villages and
hilltop hamlets crowned
by ancient castles.
Day 1: vora
Its a 90-minute drive from
Lisbon to vora (pp30811).
Start with a visit to the S, the
citys 13th-century cathedral.
The upper level of the Gothic
cloisters offers a view across the
rooftops. Around the corner is
the Museu de vora, home to a
dazzling Flemish polyptych in
13 panels. Next, walk over to the
ruins of the Roman Temple, then
admire the 18th-century azulejos
that decorate the church of So
Joo Evangelista, part of the
Convento dos Lios. End the
day at the Capela dos Ossos, the
macabre chapel of bones inside
the church of So Francisco.
Day 2: Serra de So Mamede
Drive north to the Serra de So
Mamede (p300) to visit the spa
town of Castelo de Vide (p301).
Amble through the maze-like
Judiaria before venturing up to
the ruins of the 14th-century
castle. Next, drive to idyllic
Marvo (p300). The castle, hewn
out of granite, dates from the
late 13th century. Continue to
Portalegre (pp300301) and
admire the valuable collection
of tapestries in the Museu da
Tapearia de Portalegre.
Day 3: Elvas
Drive south to the frontier town
of Elvas (pp3023). Walk along
the massive fortifications
around the old town, then visit
the early 13th-century castle.
Afterwards, walk down to the
Day 6: Mrtola
Set high above the River
Guadiana, the vila museu of
Mrtola (p319) is a melting pot
of archaeological treasures.
Tour the castle and its grounds,
then admire the collection of
Portuguese Islamic art in the
Ncleo Islmico or catch up on
the Roman period at the Ncleo
Romano. For an interesting
diversion, head to the old copper
mines at Minas de So Domingos.
Day 7: Beja and Viana de
Alentejo
Drive to the regional capital of
Beja (p317). The Museu Regional
Rainha Dona Leonor, in a former
convent, is worth visiting for its
remarkable blend of architectural styles. For an overview
of the old town, climb the Torre
de Menagem. After lunch, head
to Viana do Alentejo (p313).
Explore the 14th-century castle
and the impressive church of
Nossa Senhora de Aires before
heading back to Lisbon.
DISCOVERING PORTUGAL
17
One Week in
Southern Portugal
The golden sands and clear waters of Dona Ana beach in Lagos, Algarve
18
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Santiago
Pontevedra
nh
Ourense
Mi
Vigo
Viana do
Castelo
Braga
Guimares
The Azores
Corvo
Flores
Oporto (Porto)
D ou r
Graciosa
So Jorge
Terceira
Faial
Pico
Aveiro
Viseu
So Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres
200
0 miles
Coimbra
Figueira
da Foz
Santa Maria
100
P O R T
z e re
Leiria
Madeira
Porto Santo
Peniche
Te
j
Ilha do
Porto Santo
Santarm
Madeira
Ponte
de Sor
Mora
Lisbon (Lisboa)
Funchal
0 kilometres 20
0 miles
10
See inset
map right
vora
Setbal
Viana do
Alentejo
S ad o
Alvito
Beja
0 kilometres
0 miles
100
50
Atlantic
Ocean
Sines
Santiago
do Cacm
Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Castro
Verde
Almodvar
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway line
International boundary
Ferry route
For additional map symbols see back flap
Aljezur
Alte
Portimo
Albufeira
Faro
19
Sarria
Europe
ESTONIA
NORWAY
LATVIA
SWEDEN
LITHUANIA
Ponferrada
Si l
DENMARK
POLAND
UNITED
KINGDOM
S P A I N
NETHERLANDS
REPUBLIC
OF
IRELAND
BELGIUM
Bragana
GERMANY
CZECH SLOVAKIA
REPUBLIC
HUNGARY
AUSTRIA
LUXEMBOURG
SLOVENIA
SWITZERLAND
Chaves
FRANCE
ITALY
Miranda
do Douro
Due
Sendim
ro
PORTUGAL
Torre de
Moncorvo
Vila Real
Freixo de Espada
Cinta
Penedono
SPAIN
Lisbon
TUNISIA
Azores
ALGERIA
LIBYA
MOROCCO
Trancoso
Pinhel
Madeira
ag
Al
Guarda
Sabugal
vila
mes
Tor
Ciudad Rodrigo
Madrid
S P A I N
Sortelha
Penamacor
Plasencia
U G A L
Greater Lisbon
Castelo
Branco
Ta j o
Odivelas
Sacavm
Cceres
Amadora
G u ad
ian
A rd
Moita
Seixal
0 kilometres
ila
0 miles
10
Coina
Guadiana
Crdoba
Aracena
Estepa
Sevilla
Huelva
Barreiro
Almada
Costa de
Caparica
Zafra
Montijo
Cacilhas
Trafaria
Moura
Belm
Mrida
Badajoz
ej
LISBON
Campo Maior
Sousel
Queluz
Portalegre
Genil
Granada
Almonte
Motril
Jerez de
la Frontera
Mlaga
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
21
A PORTRAIT OF
PORTUGAL
Most visitors to Portugal head for the sandy coves, rocky coastline and
manicured golf links of the Algarve. But beyond the south coast resorts lies
the least explored corner of Western Europe: a country of rugged landscapes,
sophisticated cities, rural backwaters and sharply contrasting traditions.
Portugal appears to have no obvious
geographical claim to nationhood, yet
this western extremity of the Iberian
Peninsula has existed within borders
virtually unchanged for nearly 800 years.
Its ten million people speak their own
language, follow their own unique
cultural traditions, and have a centuriesold history of proud independence from,
and distrust of neighbouring Spain.
For a small country, the regions of
Portugal are immensely varied. The rural
Minho and Trs-os-Montes in the north
are the most traditional some would
say backward. Over the last few decades
many inhabitants of these neglected
regions have been forced to emigrate
in search of work.
The south of the country could not be
more different. The Algarve, blessed with
beautiful sandy beaches and a wonderful,
22
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Rolling grassland of the Alentejo with village and medieval castle of Terena
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
23
View from the mountaintop village of Monsanto near the border with Spain
24
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
cities, it is quite
common for three
generations to live
under one roof, and
it is normal for both
men and women
to stay living in
the family home
until they marry.
One thing that has
changed dramatically is family size.
A generation ago,
families of ten or
more children were
commonplace
especially in remote,
rural areas. Nowadays, one or two children
constitute an average-sized family, often
looked after by
a grandmother
while both
parents go
out to work.
Catholicism
is at the heart
of Portuguese
life, especially
Tiled housefront in Alcochete, a small
town on the Tagus estuary
in the north,
where you will
see a crucifix or the image of
a saint watching over most homes, cafs
and barbers shops. Weddings and first
communion services are deeply religious
occasions. Although church attendance
is in decline, particularly in the cities,
national devotion to Our Lady of Ftima
remains steadfast, as does delight in
festivals (romarias) honouring local
saints, another tradition that is strongest
in the north.
Language and Culture
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
25
26
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Vernacular Architecture
Traditionally, Portugals rural architecture varied with climatic
conditions and locally available building materials. Although
lightweight bricks are now ubiquitous, many older houses still
stand. There are the thick-walled granite houses of the north
designed to keep out the cold and rain. The Beiras milder
climate means their houses are made of brick or limestone.
In the Alentejo and the Ribatejo, the clay houses are long and
low, to suit hot summers and chilly winters. The Algarves gentler
Mediterranean climate has led to houses of clay or stone.
Chimneys are small or nonexistent. Instead, smoke escapes
through openings in the roof.
Tiled Roofs
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
Telhas de canudo
are used to cover
the roof.
Verandas are
glassed in and
so can be used
all year round.
Portugals Windmills
Limestone
used for the
walls is usually
stuccoed and
whitewashed.
Wooden beams
27
28
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Manueline Architecture
The style of architecture that flourished in the reign of Manuel I
(see pp5053) and continued after his death is essentially a
Portuguese variant of Late Gothic. It is typified by maritime
motifs inspired by Portugals Age of Discovery, and by elaborate
all-over decoration. The artists behind it include Joo de
Castilho and Diogo Boitac, renowned for the cloister of the
Mosteiro dos Jernimos (see pp1089), and Francisco and
Diogo de Arruda, designers of the Torre de Belm (see p112).
Cross of the Order of
Christ (see p191)
Swathes of
seaweed
Coral-encrusted
masts
Anchor chains
Twisted ropes
Bust, probably of
the designer Diogo
de Arruda
Decorative Details
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
Cross of the
Order of Christ
Armillary
sphere
Twisted ropes
decorate ceiling
vaults, columns and
arches, and girdle
entire buildings
inside and out.
29
30
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
1500
Renaissance
1500
Mannerist
1600
1700
Baroque
1700
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
Neo-Classical
1800
Art Nouveau
1900
Modern
c.1770 Gatekeeper
31
32
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Wine Regions
Many of Portugals
wine regions
maintain their
individual style by
specializing in particular
Portuguese grape varieties.
The introduction of
modern wine-making
techniques has improved
overall quality, and as yet
the increasing use of
imported grape varieties
seems no threat to
Portuguese individuality.
Oporto
Key
Vinhos Verdes
Lisbon
Douro
Do
Bairrada
Estremadura
Ribatejo
Setbal
Alentejo
Algarve
0 kilometres
0 miles
50
25
A PORTRAIT OF PORTUGAL
The Douro
region is best
known as the
source of port
wine, but in
most years
about half of the
wine produced
is fermented dry
to make table wine, and these
wines are now at the forefront
of Portuguese wine-making.
The pioneer, Barca Velha, was
launched in 1952 and is both
highly regarded and among the
most expensive. Other producers
include Calheiros Cruz, Domingos
Alves de Sousa, Quinta do Crasto,
Niepoort and Ramos-Pinto.
33
Bairrada is a
region where
the small and
thick-skinned
Baga grape
dominates.
It makes big, tannic wines,
sometimes with smoky or pineneedle overtones and, like the
older Do wines, they need
time to soften. Modern
winemaking and occasional
disregard for regional
regulations have meant more
approachable reds (often
classified as Vinho Regional
das Beiras) and crisper whites.
Quality producers include Lus
Pato and Caves Aliana.
Estremadura is Portugals
westernmost wine area and
has only recently emerged as
a region in its own right. Several
producers now make modern
Vinho Regional wines with
character; look for wines by
DFJ, Casa Santos Lima, Quinta
de Pancas and Quinta do Monte
dOiro. The most interesting
DOC is Alenquer. Bucelas, to the
south of the region, produces
characterful white wines.
Alentejo
produced wine
has possibly
made the
biggest leap in
quality in the
last decade.
Long dismissed
by experts as
a region of
easy-drinking house reds for
restaurants, this area now
produces some of Portugals
most serious red wines and a
surprising number of excellent
whites. Among the top producers
are Herdade do Esporo, Herdade
dos Coelheiros, Cortes de Cima
and Joo Portugal Ramos.
Algarve is
Portugals
southernmost
wine region.
Portimo,
Lagos and
Lagoa in the
west and Tavira
in the east are
the four main wine-producing
areas here, notable for their fruity
reds (Touriga Nacional, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Negra Mole) and
dry, crisp whites (Arinto, Verdelho
and Castelo). Top producers
include Quinta dos Lopes, Quinta
da Penina, Quinta do Francs,
Quinta dos Vales and Herdade
dos Sermomenhos.
34
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL THROUGH
THE YEAR
While July and August are the most popular
months for visiting, spring and autumn
can be more rewarding if you want to
tour and experience local culture. Free of
excessive heat and crowds, the country
is more relaxed. There is deep-rooted
respect throughout the country for
ancient traditions, which are most often
Spring
From the Algarve to Trs-osMontes, the country erupts in
wild flowers as warmer days
set in. This is the time to see
the countryside at its most
beautiful, although rain can be
expected until the end of May.
Easter is a time of great religious celebration, with Holy
Week processions taking place
all over the country.
March
International Chocolate
Festival (late Feb/mid-Mar),
bidos. This event attracts
people from all over the world.
Madeira Islands Golf Open
(Mar/May). Venue and date
change from year to year.
April
Holy Week (week before Easter),
Braga. Events in the countrys
religious capital are particularly
traditional and solemn. Torchlit
processions are led by church
authorities.
Easter Sunday is also the
beginning of the bullfighting
season throughout Portugal.
May
Flower Festival (late Apr/
early May), Funchal, Madeira.
Shops and houses are
decorated with flowers.
Ends with a parade of floats.
Festas das Cruzes (early May),
Barcelos. The Festival of the
Crosses celebrates the day
the shape of a cross appeared
in the earth in 1504.
Pilgrimage to Ftima (1213
May). Huge crowds make the
pilgrimage to the place where
the Virgin appeared to three
children in 1917 (see p190).
Summer
Most visitors choose the
summer months to visit
Portugal. Since many businesses
shut down in August, it is
holiday time for locals too.
Many families spend the entire
summer by the seaside.
Summer is a good time to
visit the cooler Minho, when
the north is busy with saints
day festivals (see pp2323).
June
Festa de So Gonalo (first
weekend), Amarante. Young,
unmarried men and women in
the town swap phallus-shaped
cakes as tokens of love.
Feira Nacional da Agricultura
(early Jun), Santarm. A
combination of agricultural fairs,
bullfighting and displays of
folk dancing.
Sintra Festival (JunJul), Sintra.
Classical music concerts and
ballet programme.
Santo Antnio (1213 Jun),
Lisbon. Celebrated in the
Alfama district with singing and
dancing, food and drink. Locals
put up lanterns and streamers
and bring out chairs for the
thousands who arrive.
Festa da Coca (Thu after Trinity
Sun), Mono. Part of the
Corpus Christi Day celebrations,
the festival features scenes of
St George in comic battle with
the dragon.
So Joo (2324 Jun), Oporto.
Mid-summer festivities include
making wishes while jumping
over small fires, and the
barcos rabelos boat race
(see pp2323).
So Pedro (29 Jun), Lisbon.
More street celebrations with
eating, dancing and singing.
July
Festa do Colete Encarnado
(first weekend), Vila Franca de
Xira. Named after the red
waistcoats of the Ribatejo
horsemen, the festival consists
of bullfights and bull running.
Festa dos Tabuleiros (every four
years, next in 2015), Tomar.
Music, dancing, fireworks and
a bullfight (see pp19091). Four
hundred women carry trays
of decorated loaves on
their heads.
Festa da Ria (midlate Jul),
Aveiro. Folk dances, boat races
and a best-decorated boat
competition (see p207).
35
36
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Autumn
In many ways, this is the best
season for touring and
sightseeing. From midSeptember temperatures cool
sharply, and autumn is usually
drier than spring. This is a
mellow, fruitful time of year
with the countryside a collage
of brown, gold and red.
September is also the start
of the vindima (the harvest)
season. Grapes are harvested
and crushed to wine in a spirit
of festivity, especially in the
port-growing Douro region.
September
Avante! (early Sep), Seixal.
A three-day festival of folk music.
There are also film screenings,
a book fair and food stalls.
Festa das Vindimas (early Sep),
Palmela. A festival to celebrate
the grape harvest.
Wine Festival (early Sep),
Funchal and Estreito de Cmara
de Lobos, Madeira. The Funchal
festival is a lively, popular event,
but the one in Estreito de Cmara
de Lobos is more authentic.
Romaria da Nossa Senhora dos
Remdios (69 Sep), Lamego.
The annual pilgrimage to this
famous Baroque shrine is the
main feature of three days of
celebration. Activities include a
torchlit procession and live bands.
Romaria da Nossa Senhora
da Nazar (8 Sep and following
weekend), Nazar. Includes
processions, folk dancing,
and bullfights.
October
Feira de Outubro (first or second
week), Vila Franca de Xira. Bulls
are run through the streets and
bullfights staged.
November
All Saints Day (1 Nov). Candles
are lit in churches and homes,
and flowers placed on graves
to honour the dead.
Feira Nacional do Cavalo
(first 2 weeks), Goleg. Horse
parades and races. The
celebrations for St Martins Day
(11 Nov), with a grand parade
and running of bulls, also take
place during this time.
Casinos do Algarve Rally
(mid-Nov), Algarve. Car rally.
37
Wintry snow scene in the Serra de Montemuro, south of Cinfes (see p253)
December
Christmas (25 Dec). Churches
Seekers of mild, sunny climes fly and shops everywhere display
cribs. On Christmas Eve
south to the Algarve where
many of the resorts remain alive bacalhau (salted dried cod)
is eaten. Presents are
in winter. For golfers
opened, and
too, the coolest
people go to
months of the
midnight mass.
year are the most
In Madeira tradiappealing.
tional bolo de mel
January and Feb(honey cake) is
ruary also see the
made, and chilspectacular blosBolo rei, a cake enjoyed
dren plant wheat,
soming of almond
over the Christmas period
maize or barley
trees right across
in pots. The pots
southern Portugal.
are placed around the crib to
Other visitors migrate even
symbolize renewal and plenty.
further south to sub-tropical
Madeira where winter, in
particular Christmas and the
January
New Year, is high season.
New Year. Celebrations all over
Portugal with spectacular
firework displays welcoming
Public Holidays
in the New Year.
New Years Day (1 Jan)
Festa dos Rapazes (25 Dec
6 Jan), around Bragana.
Carnaval (Feb)
Boys dress up in masks and
Good Friday (Mar or Apr)
rampage through their villages
Dia 25 de Abril,
in an ancient pagan rite of
commemorating 1974
passage. (see p233).
Revolution (25 Apr)
Epiphany (6 Jan). The traditional
Dia do Trabalhador,
crown-shaped cake for
Labour Day (1 May)
Epiphany, bolo rei (kings cake),
Corpus Christi (variable)
Cames Day (10 Jun)
Assumption Day (15 Aug)
Republic Day (5 Oct)
All Saints Day (1 Nov)
Dia da Restauraco,
commemorating independence
from Spain, 1640 (1 Dec)
Immaculate Conception
(8 Dec)
Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Men in Carnaval costume, Ovar
Winter
February
Fantasporto (mid-Feb/midMar), Oporto. An important
international film festival,
showing many films by new
directors, including science
fiction films.
Carnaval (varies according to
Easter). Celebrated
all over Portugal
with spectacular
costumes and floats;
particularly colourful
parades take place
in Ovar, Sesimbra,
Torres Vedras,
Funchal and Loul.
Louls festivities are
connected with the
annual Almond
Gatherers Fair.
38
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
MINHO
15/59
8/46
6
hrs
8.5
hrs
5
hrs
3
hrs
77
mm
20
mm
109
mm
113
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
Terceira
Pico
200
8
hrs
11
hrs
6.5
hrs
55
mm
2.5
mm
60 92.5
mm mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Santa Maria
THE AZORES
C
25/77
19/66
12/54
Beira Litoral
4.5
hrs
Leiria
Jan
23/73
17/63 16/61
Aveiro
21/70 20/68
17/63 16/61
15/59 14/57
12/54
9/48
100
0 miles
Oporto
So Miguel
0 kilometres
Viana
do Castelo
ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO
Graciosa
Faial
10/50 12/54
4/39
Flores
So Jorge
21/70
19/66
The Azores
Corvo
28/82
28/82
17/63
20/68
12/54
12/54
4.5
hrs
6
hrs
4.5
hrs
2.5
hrs
67
mm
27
mm
103
mm
120
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
Santarm
23/73
17/63
14/57 14/57
12.5
hrs
7.5
hrs
5
hrs
47.5 0
mm mm
65
mm
95
mm
Oct
Jan
9
hrs
month Apr
LISBON
8/46
Jul
Setbal
Sines
Madeira
MADEIRA
Porto Santo
C
25/77 24/75
19/66
18/64
14/57
19/66
18/64 13/55
Lagos
Madeira
0 kilometres 20
0 miles
Funchal
6
hrs
7.5
hrs
6
hrs
4.5
hrs
39
mm
2.5
mm
75
mm
103
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
10
DOURO AND
TRSOSMONTES
Douro
C
25/77
Average daily
minimum temperature
9/48 15/59
Trs-os-Montes
Douro
THE BEIRAS
11/52
13/55
5/41
Average
monthly rainfall
Vila Real
21/70
19/66
8
hrs
12.5
hrs
6.5
hrs
4
hrs
73
mm
15
mm
79
mm
149
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
Trs-os-Montes
Beira Alta
Beira Litoral
Viseu
28/82
Guarda
29/84
15/59
Coimbra
10/50
12/54
13/55
6/43
7
hrs
9.5
hrs
6
hrs
4.5
hrs
86
mm
20
mm
105
mm
159
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
8
hrs
10.5
hrs
7
hrs
4.5
hrs
76
mm
13
mm
87
mm
132
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
0/32
ALENTEJO
Alto Alentejo
31/88
Alto Alentejo
19/66
21/70
11/52
18/64
30/86
12/54
10/50
19/66
5/41
22/72
16/61
13/55 12/54
10/50
vora
7.5
hrs
12
hrs
6
hrs
4.5
hrs
48
mm
19
mm
52
mm
43
mm
Jul
Oct
Jan
month Apr
Beja
6/43
8.5
hrs
12.5
hrs
7
hrs
5
hrs
57
mm
5
mm
62
mm
96
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
Baixo Alentejo
ALGARVE
Baixo
Alentejo
8/46
5/41
Beira Baixa
Portalegre
7/45
14/57
Beira Baixa
Castelo
Branco
18/64
16/61
23/73
21/70
35/95
28/82
22/72
24/75
23/73
20/68 20/68
18/64
16/61 16/61
13/55
9/48
13/55
10/50
14/57
6/43
Faro
0 kilometres
0 miles
100
50
9
hrs
12.5
hrs
7.5
hrs
5.5
hrs
8.5
hrs
12.5
hrs
7.5
hrs
5.5
hrs
31
mm
1
mm
51
mm
70
mm
46
mm
2
mm
48
mm
49
mm
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
month Apr
Jul
Oct
Jan
39
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
41
42
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
148195
Joo II
124879
143881
Afonso III
Afonso V
121123 Afonso II
11851211
Sancho I
12791325 Dinis
1100
1100
1200
House of Burgundy
1200
1300
1400
1500
1400
1500
Avis
1300
132557 Afonso IV
135767 Pedro I
122348
113985
Sancho II
136783 Fernando I
Afonso
Henriques
(Afonso I)
152157
14338
Joo III
Duarte
13851433 Joo I
14951521 Manuel I
43
182853 Maria II
155778 Sebastio
193268 Antnio
175077 Jos I
162140 Felipe III
2011
(Philip IV of Spain)
185361
Pedro V
164056 Joo IV
165683 Afonso VI
181626
Joo VI
(regent from
1792)
200204
186189
Lus I
16831706
Pedro II (regent
from 1668)
1600
Hapsburg
1600
Mrio Soares
(prime minister)
1700
1800
1700
1800
Bragana
1900
Republic
1900
2000
2000
200405
15981621 Felipe II
198595
Anbal
Cavaco Silva
(prime minister)
158098 Felipe I
200511
Jos Scrates
Carvalho
Pinto de
Sousa (prime
minister)
(Philip II of Spain)
157880 Henrique
19952002
17771816
Antnio Guterres
(prime minister)
190810
Manuel II
182628 Pedro IV
170650 Joo V
Pedro Miguel
de Santana
Lopes (prime
minister)
18891908 Carlos I
2006
Anbal
Cavaco Silva
(President
of the
Republic)
44
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
HISPANIA
TARRACONENSIS
LUSITANIA
BAETICA
Iberian Peninsula in 27 BC
Roman Provinces
Dolmen of Comenda
Dolmens such as this one near vora
were communal burial chambers.
Many were built by the Neolithic
peoples who lived in the Iberian
Peninsula in the third millennium BC.
Porca of Mura
Trs-os-Montes has
preserved 16 statues of
animals like this granite pig
(see p263), probably used in
Celtic fertility rituals.
Palestra (exercise
area of the baths)
139 BC Celtiberian
resistance to Roman
rule ends with the
death of Viriatus, leader
of the Lusitani tribe
2000 BC
1000 BC
1000 BC Phoenicians
218 BC The
Romans
invade the
Iberian
Peninsula
Floor Mosaic
Under Roman rule, the
wealthy built lavishly
decorated villas. This mosaic
of a triton (1st century AD)
comes from the House of
the Fountains just outside
the walls of Conimbriga.
45
Roman Amphora
Garum, a popular, spiced
sauce made of fermented fish,
was manufactured at Tria
(see p175) and exported in
27-litre (6-gallon) amphorae
like this one.
Aqueduct
Road east to
Tomar
Visigothic
Buckle
The Visigoths
were warlike
yet cultured
people who
strengthened
the position of
Christianity.
However, their
system of elective
monarchy led to
factional disputes.
A domus,
private house
with a garden
Reconstruction Of Conimbriga
The extensive remains of Conimbriga (see p214) give a
vivid picture of how thoroughly Romanized Portugal
became under the empire. The town expanded rapidly in
the 1st century AD, when it achieved the self-governing
status of a municipium. It fell to the Suevi in AD 468.
AD 73 Emperor Vespasian
AD 200
AD 400
AD 600
Visigothic
chapel at
So Frutuoso
(see p279)
46
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Moorish Plate
Vivid depictions of a hunting
dog, a falcon and a gazelle
decorate this 11th-century
plate found at Mrtola, a
river port on the Guadiana
used by eastern traders.
Coexistence
Under Moorish rule,
co-operation
between the faiths
was common. This
miniature from the
13th century shows
the friendly meeting
of two knights, one
a Christian, the
other a Moor.
711 Large Muslim army of Berbers and Arabs (the Moors) conquers
Iberian Peninsula following dispute over Visigothic succession
722 Christian victory at
Covadonga in Asturias marks
start of gradual reconquest
AD 700
AD 800
756 Battle of Al Musara; Abd al Rahman
10th-century
Hispano-Moorish
ivory casket
878 Christian forces
recapture Coimbra
AD 900
AD 1000
100831 Civil
Al Mansur retakes
Coimbra, then forces
Christian frontier back
to the River Douro
war; Al Andalus
divided into
small kingdoms
known as taifas
47
Capture of Lisbon
The Reconquest was
given the status of a
crusade by the pope.
Lisbon was taken in
1147 with the aid of
English troops bound
for the Holy Land.
1050
1064 Christians
regain Coimbra
Henry of Burgundy
1143 Treaty of
Afonso Henriques
declares himself
King of Portugal
Zamora
establishes
Portugals
independence
1100
1128 Battle of So
Mamede; Afonso
Henriques defeats
his mother Teresa
to win control of
county of Portucale
1150
1153 Founding of Cistercian
Abbey at Alcobaa
1147 Fall of Lisbon to Crusader army;
48
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Coat of arms of
Portugal
Cancioneiro da Ajuda
King Dinis was a fine musician and
poet. This illumination is from a
collection of troubadour songs,
many by the king himself.
The aedicules
contain finely
carved scenes
from the life of St
Bartholomew, Dom
Pedros patron saint.
Fortifications of Serpa
King Dinis had a chain of fortified towns
and castles built along the borders with
Castile and Moorish Spain. This 16th-century
drawing shows the medieval walls and
towers of Serpa (see p316).
Leiria Castle
(parliament) held
at Coimbra
1200
1173 Remains of St
Vincent brought
from Cabo de So
Vicente to Lisbon
Portugal
recognized
as kingdom
by the
pope
1250
1248 Anarchic reign of Sancho II ends in
1179
Afonso III
held at Leiria
includes
representatives
of the towns
1256 Lisbon
becomes
capital of
Portugal
in place
of Coimbra
St Isabel (12711336)
King Dinis did not approve of his
wifes acts of charity. A legend
tells how the bread Queen Isabel
was about to distribute to the
poor turned into roses when she
was challenged by her husband.
49
Where to See
Medieval Portugal
Of the many castles built or
rebuilt in this period, the most
picturesque are at Almourol (see
p195) and bidos. In the citadel
of Bragana (pp2645) stands the
Domus Municipalis, a medieval
meeting hall. Most surviving
Romanesque buildings, however,
are religious: the cathedrals in
Oporto, Lisbon (p76) and Coimbra
(p206) and many smaller churches
in the north, such as those at
Rates (p278), Roriz (p254) and
Braves (p273).
Cross of Sancho I
Sanchos reign (1185
1211) saw royal power
and wealth increase
despite disputes
between the king
and his bishops over
papal authority.
Tomb of Pedro I
The Gothic carvings on the royal
tomb at Alcobaa (see pp1845)
are the finest of their kind in Portugal. The
forthright Pedro, who ruled from 135767,
is remembered chiefly for the tragic tale of
his murdered mistress, Ins de Castro, whose
matching tomb stands facing Pedros.
St Bartholomew
is martyred by
being flayed alive.
university founded
in Lisbon
1300
1297 Castile
recognizes
Portugals
sovereignty
over the
Algarve
1384 Juan I of
Castile invades
Portugal
1350
Knight of the
Order of Christ
1336 Death
of St Isabel
of Portugal
1357 Accession
of Pedro I, who
has murderers
of Ins de
Castro brutally
executed
1372 Fernando Is
unpopular marriage
to Leonor Teles leads
to riots
50
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Arms of English
royal family
John of Gaunt used the
alliance with Portugal to
pursue his own claim
to the throne of Castile.
1415 Capture of
Ceuta in Morocco
1400
Lus de Cames
After serving in India and
Morocco, where he lost
an eye, the poet wrote
Os Lusadas (see p194),
an epic on the Discoveries.
1450
1475
1418 Henry
England formalized
by Treaty of
Windsor
the Navigator
made governor
of the Algarve
1494 Spain
and Portugal
divide the
Atlantic region
by Treaty of
Tordesillas
Wedding of Manuel I
Manuels reign marked the
highest point in Portugals
golden age of discovery and
conquest. His marriages were
made to reinforce ties with
Spain. Shown here is his third:
to Leonor, sister of Carlos I of
Spain, in 1518.
51
Where to See
Gothic Portugal
Many churches include Gothic
elements, such as the cloister of
the S in Oporto (see p246) and the
richly sculpted portal of the S in
vora (p310). Tomars Convento de
Cristo (pp1923) is predominantly
Gothic, as is the church at Alcobaa
(pp1845). The finest church, however, is at Batalha, built in thanks
for Joo Is victory at the Battle of
Aljubarrota. It also contains major
examples of Manueline
architecture (see pp289).
Archbishop of
Braga
Portugals
bishops took
Joos side after
the pope had
refused to
legitimize the
children of Ins
de Castro (see
pp489).
1510 Beginning of
1525
greatest dramatist
1550
1575
on the Jernimos
monastery in Belm
(see pp1089)
1498 Vasco da Gama
reaches India
152157 Reign
1559 Jesuit
1572 Publication of
Os Lusadas, a verse epic
celebrating Portugals
history by Lus de Cames
University
established at
vora (see p310)
expedition to Morocco
ends in his death and
total defeat at the Battle
of Alccer-Quibir
52
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Armillary Sphere
This celestial globe with the earth
in its centre was used by navigators
for measuring the positions of the
stars. It became the personal
emblem of Manuel I.
15001501 Gaspar
Corte Real reaches
Newfoundland.
1427 Diogo de
Silves discovers
Magellan (c.14801521)
With Spanish funding,
Portuguese sailor Ferno
de Magalhes, known as
Magellan, led the first
circumnavigation of the
globe (151922). He was
killed in the Philippines
before the voyages end.
the Azores.
1434 Gil Eanes
reaches
Brazil.
Co reaches
the mouth of
the Congo.
1485 On his third
voyage Diogo Co
reaches Cape Cross
(Namibia).
1488 Bartolomeu
Dias rounds Cape
of Good Hope.
African Ivory
Salt Cellar
This 16th-century
ivory carving shows
Portuguese warriors
supporting a globe
and a ship. A sailor
peers out from
the crows nest
at the top.
53
Key
Discoverers routes
Cloves
1543
Portuguese
arrive in
Japan.
China at Macau
and Canton.
of Goa.
reaches
Calicut in
India.
Nutmeg
1513 Trading
posts set up in
1510
Capture
1498
Vasco
da Gama
Pepper
Cinnamon
1512 Portuguese
1518
Fortress
built in
Colombo
(Sri Lanka).
reach Ternate in
the Moluccas
(Spice Islands).
Crows nest
Portuguese Discoveries
The systematic attempt to find a sea route
to India, which led to a monopoly of the spice
trade, began in 1482 with the first voyage of
Diogo Co, who planted a padro (stone
cross) on the shores where he landed.
Lateen-rigged Caravel
These ships with three
triangular sails were
favoured by the first
Portuguese explorers who
sailed close to the African
coast. For later journeys
across the open ocean, square
sails were found more effective.
Square sail on
foremast
54
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Spanish Rule
When Henrique, the Cardinal-King, died without an
heir in 1580, Philip II of Spain successfully claimed the
Portuguese throne through his mother, a daughter of
Manuel I. Under Spanish rule, influential positions were
held by Portuguese nobles, but a common foreign
policy led to a steady loss of colonies to the Dutch. In
1640 a Portuguese revolt took place in Lisbon and the
Duke of Bragana was chosen to become King Joo IV.
Spain retaliated and the ensuing war continued until
1668. Meanwhile Portugal was forced to rely
economically on her overseas territories.
Spanish Armada
In 1588 Philip II of Spain
hoped to invade England with
his great fleet. It sailed from
Lisbon where it had been
equipped and provisioned.
Restoration of Joo IV
Two weeks after his supporters had
ousted the Spanish in 1640, Joo was
crowned on a platform outside the
Royal Palace in Lisbon.
War of Independence
Portugals long war against Spain (1640
68) was fought mostly in the Alentejo.
This azulejo panel from Palcio Fronteira
in Lisbon (see p127) shows the Battle of
Linhas de Elvas (1658). A Portuguese army
besieged in Elvas (see pp3023) was
relieved by fresh troops from Estremoz,
who soundly defeated the Spanish.
Antnio Vieira
Vieira (160697) was a
Jesuit priest, writer and
orator. He was sent
on many diplomatic
missions and clashed
with the Inquisition
over his support for
Christianized Jews.
1580 Battle of Alcntara; Spanish invade and
1580
1624 Dutch
capture
Portuguese
colony of Bahia
in Brazil
Birth of
painter
Josefa de
bidos
1620
1631
1626 Jesuit
Church of So Vicente de
Fora (see p76) by Filippo
Terzi and Baltasar lvares,
completed in 1627
missionary
Antnio de
Andrade crosses
the Himalayas
into Tibet
Indo-Portuguese Contador
Luxury cabinets, known as
contadores, were made from teak
and ebony in Portugals overseas
colonies. Many came from Goa.
This fine 17th-century example
is from the Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga (see pp98101).
55
Where to See
17th-Century Portugal
Under Spanish rule an austere
style of architecture prevailed,
typified by So Vicente de Fora
(see p74) in Lisbon, the S Nova
in Coimbra (p210) and
Santarms Jesuit church (p197).
At Vila Viosa the style is evident
in the long, plain faade of the
palace of the Dukes of Bragana
(pp3045). Colourful azulejos
from the period can be seen
at Palcio Fronteira (p127)
and the Museu Nacional do
Azulejo (pp1245).
Josefa de bidos
Born in Spain, Josefa (1631
84) came to bidos (see
pp18081) when young.
Trained by her father, she
painted religious subjects
and realistic still lifes.
The Inquisition
In the 16th and 17th centuries, the
Inquisition, set up by the Catholic church,
burned heretics in Lisbons Terreiro do
Pao to ensure religious conformity.
Pedro II
1639 Portuguese vessels
1665 Spanish
defeated at Battle
of Montes Claros
1683 Pedro II
becomes King
Portuguese independence
1660
Catherine of Bragana
1680
1667 Degenerate Afonso VI is
56
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
Queens apartments
Joo V
This miniature (1720) by Castriotto
shows Joo V drinking chocolate, a
fashionable drink of the nobility,
served to him by the Infante Miguel.
1700
170650 Reign of
Joo V the
Magnanimous, a
period of great
artistic extravagance
1720
Bom Jesus
do Monte
1740
1733 First Portuguese
opera, The Patience of
Socrates by Antnio de
Almeida, performed at
Royal Palace in Lisbon
guas Livres
Aqueduct
Opened in 1748, the
aqueduct was paid
for by the citizens of
Lisbon. Joo V had
it built across the
Alcntara valley
against the advice
of his engineers.
Monks
refectory
The belltowers
contain a carillon
of 114 bells.
57
Where to See
18th-Century Portugal
Baroque churches are found
throughout Portugal, many with
ornate interiors of gilded wood
(talha dourada) such as So
Francisco (see p247) and Santa
Clara (p245) in Oporto. Tiled
interiors are also very common
(pp267). Coimbra University
houses the glittering Capela de
So Miguel and a fine Baroque
library. As well as the palaces
at Mafra and Queluz, many
elegant country houses, notably
the Casa de Mateus, date from
this era (pp6061).
Monastery at Mafra
Begun in 1717, this vast monument to Joo
V incorporates a royal palace, a church and
a monastery (see p158). It took 38 years to
complete and contains some 880 rooms
and 300 monks cells.
The Kings
apartments are
separated from
the Queens by
a long gallery.
declares war
on Portugal
Statue of Jos I
Maria I
1800
1780
1775 Machado de
1789 Portuguese
suppress Brazilian
independence
movement in
Minas Gerais
1792 Maria Is
son Joo
named Regent
1807 The French, under
Junot, invade Portugal;
royal family flees to Brazil
58
INTRODUCING PORTUGAL
1820 Revolution
The revolution led
to the royal familys
return from Brazil
and a new Liberal
constitution. This
proved unworkable
and was revoked
following an army
coup in 1823.
Personication
of Portuguese
Republic
Z Povinho
This long-suffering,
Everyman figure first
appeared in 1875, created
by artist and potter Rafael
Bordalo Pinheiro.
He expressed the
concerns of the
average Portuguese
working man.
1853 First
Portuguese
postage
stamps
issued
Teatro Nacional
Dona Maria II
1810
1830
1850
1842 Founding of
1810 Battle
of Buaco
1856
Opening of
first railway
from Lisbon
to Carregado
National Theatre
18324 War of the Two Brothers;
185180 The
Regeneration:
period of
industrial
development
5 Reis stamp
The Drunkards by
Jos Malha
Malha (18551933)
created a virtual social
history of the period
in genre paintings like
this one, showing
a group of peasants
sampling new wine.
59
Where to See
19th-Century Portugal
Neo-Classicism, which dominated
the early part of the century, can
be seen in Lisbons Palcio da
Ajuda (see p113). More Romantic
historical styles emerged later
in the century, ranging from the
fantastical Neo-Gothic of the
Palcio da Pena (pp1667) in
Sintra to the subtle Orientalism
of Monserrate (p161). Notable
stations associated with the
spread of Portugals railways
include Lisbons Rossio and
So Bento in Oporto (p245).
Ea de Queirs
The great novelist (1845
1900) painted a scathing
picture of the Portuguese
bourgeoisie. He spent many
years abroad as a diplomat.
18658 Coalition
abolished in all
Portuguese territories
1888 Publication of Os
Maiasi by Ea de Queirs,
a satirical examination of
Portuguese lethargy
1870
186189 Reign
of moderate Lus I
1877 Serpa Pinto sets out
from Benguela in Angola to
cross southern Africa
1910
Manuel II
Revolution:
Manuel II
abdicates and
flees into exile
1890
1910
1886 Building of
Ponte de Dom
Lus I in Oporto
assassinated by Republicans
1890 Plan to link African colonies of
60
INTODUCING PORTUGAL
Modern Portugal
1949 Portugal
signs the
North Atlantic
Treaty and
becomes a
founder
member of
NATO
1933 Founding
of the Estado
Novo (New
State), harsh
dictatorship led
by Salazar.
Government
bans all strikes
and censors the
press, crushing
opposition
through brutal
secret police
force, the PIDE
1920
1910
1920
1917 Three
peasant children
in Ftima claim
to see Virgin
Mary; site of
vision becomes
focus of major
pilgrimage
1918
Assassination
of President
Sidnio Pais;
postwar years
are period of
social unrest
with frequent
strikes and
changes of
government
magnate Calouste
Gulbenkian dies leaving
2,355 million escudos
(55 million) to set up
a foundation for the
arts and education
1930
1940
1950
1960
1930
1940
1950
1960
1916
Portugal
enters World
War I on side
of the British
and French
Neurosurgeon
Antnio Egas
Moniz wins
Nobel Prize for
Medicine for
his work
developing the
prefrontal
lobotomy
1942 Salazar meets
Spanish dictator
Franco to confirm
mutual policy of
non-aggression
in charge of Republic;
General Carmona is new
president, holding office
until his death in 1951
193945 In World War II
Portugal is theoretically
neutral but, after threats to
her shipping, is forced to
sell minerals to Germany.
From 1943 Portugal permits
British and American bases
in the Azores. Here Salazar
(centre) talks to troops
stationed there
sidential elections,
the opposition
candidate General
Delgado wins
so much support
that the result
is rigged against
him. He is later
assassinated
1961 India
annexes
Portuguese
colonies of
Goa, Damo
and Diu
1974 Carnation
Revolution: in a
near-bloodless
coup, Marcelo
Caetanos regime is
overthrown by the
MFA (Armed Forces
Movement), a group
of discontented leftwing army officers
1970
1970
2004
1980
1990
2000
2010
2020
1980
1990
2000
2010
2020
The revolution of 25 April 1974 gained its popular name when people began
placing red carnations in the barrels of soldiers guns. Led by army officers disaffected
by the colonial wars in Africa, the revolution heralded a period of
great celebration, as Portugal emerged from decades
of insularity. The political situation, however, was chaotic: the new government
pushed through a controversial
programme of nationalization and land
reform in favour of the peasants, but in
November 1975 the left-wing radicals
were ousted by a short-lived
counter-coup.
Newspaper headline
announcing revolution
remaining colonies
except Macao are
granted independence,
putting an end to long,
unwinnable wars in
Africa. Troops, such
as these on patrol in
the Angolan bush, are
hastily brought home
61
LISBON
Introducing Lisbon
64 69
Alfama
7081
8289
90101
Belm
102113
Further Afield
114127
Shopping in Lisbon
128129
Entertainment in Lisbon
130131
132145
64
LISBON
Lisbon at a Glance
Portugals capital sits on the north bank of the Tagus
estuary, 17 km (10 miles) from the Atlantic. The city has
a population of about 550,000, but the conurbation of
Grande Lisboa, which has engulfed many surrounding
villages, has nearly two million people. Razed to the
ground by the earthquake of 1755 (see pp667), the
city centre is essentially 18th century, with carefully
planned, elegant streets in the Baixa. On the hills
on either side of the centre, the narrow streets of
the Alfama and Bairro Alto make it a personal,
approachable city. Since its days of glory during the
Age of Discovery, when the city was at the forefront of
world trade, Lisbon has been an important port. Today
the docks have moved; however, the great monuments
in Belm still bear witness to the citys maritime past.
Belm
(see pp10213)
0 metres
0 yards
500
500
INTRODUCING LISBON
65
Further Aeld
(see pp11427)
The Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian exhibits stunning art
and sculpture
bequeathed
to Portugal by
the millionaire
Calouste Gulbenkian (see
pp11821).
The Elevador de Santa
Justa, built at the turn
of the century, is a
wrought-iron lift
decorated with filigree
that links the Baixa
quarter with the Largo
do Carmo (see p88).
0 kilometres
0 miles
4
2
Baixa and
Avenida
(see pp8289)
Alfama
(see pp7081)
Bairro Alto
and Estrela
(see pp90101)
The Castelo de
So Jorge, once a
Moorish castle and
then the abode of the
Portuguese kings, was
transformed in the
1930s into tranquil
public gardens. The
battlements afford
spectacular views of
the city (see pp8081).
0 metres
0 yards
500
500
66
LISBON
The Reconstruction
of Lisbon
No sooner had the tremors
abated than Sebastio Jos de
Carvalho e Melo, chief minister
to Jos I and later to become
Marqus de Pombal, was
outlining ideas for rebuilding
the city. While philosophers
Marqus de Pombal
moralized, Pombals initial
(16991782)
response is said to have been,
bury the dead and feed the
living. He restored order, then began a progressive
town-planning scheme. His efficient handling of the
crisis gained him almost total political control.
INTRODUCING LISBON
67
68
LISBON
Delicate mother-of-pearl
inlaid flower motifs
Mother-of-pearl
finger plate
The Guitarra
Peculiar to Portuguese culture, the
guitarra is a flat-backed instrument
shaped like a mandolin, with eight,
ten or twelve strings, arranged in
pairs. It has evolved from a
simple 19th-century design
into a finely decorated piece,
sometimes inlaid with mother-ofpearl. The sound of the guitarra is
an essential ingredient of a good
fado, echoing and enhancing the
singers melody line.
INTRODUCING LISBON
69
O Faia
Casa de Linhares
Parreirinha de Alfama
Clube de Fado
Senhor Vinho
LISBON
71
ALFAMA
It is difficult to believe that this humble
neighbourhood was once the most
desirable quarter of Lisbon. For the Moors,
the tightly packed alleyways around the
fortified castle comprised the whole city.
The seeds of decline were sown in the
Middle Ages when wealthy residents moved
west for fear of earthquakes, leaving the
quarter to fishermen and paupers. The
buildings survived the 1755 earthquake
(see pp667) and, although there are no
Moorish houses still standing, the quarter
retains its kasbah-like layout. Compact
houses line steep streets and stairways,
their faades strung with washing.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
2 Museu de Artes Decorativas
6 Museu Militar
Historic Buildings
7 Casa dos Bicos
0 Castelo de So Jorge pp8081
Churches
3 So Vicente de Fora
5 Santa Engrcia
8 S
9 Santo Antnio S
Belvederes
1 Miradouro de Santa Luzia
q Miradouro da Graa
See also Street Finder
pp13245
Markets
4 Feira da Ladra
O N
250
250
0 yards
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72
LISBON
Street-by-Street: Alfama
A fascinating quarter at any time of day, the Alfama
comes to life in the late afternoon and early evening
when the locals emerge at their doorways and the
small tavernas start to fill. A new generation of
younger residents has resulted in a small number of
trendy shops and bars. Given the steep streets and
steps of the quarter, the least strenuous approach
is to start at the top and work your way down.
A walk around the maze of winding alleyways will
reveal picturesque corners and crumbling
churches as well as panoramic views from
the shady terraces, such as the
L.
DA
Miradouro de Santa Luzia.
S
PO
RT
O SOL
AS D
Statue of St Vincent
Largo das Portas do Sol has its
own terrace viewpoint on a
converted rooftop on the east
side of the Santa Luzia church.
BE
CO
DE
SA
NT
HE
LE
RU
. DE ARAJO
A N
R.
CA
ST
EL
O
PIC
Castelo
de So
Jorge
Key
Suggested route
0 metres
0 yards
25
25
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
1. Miradouro de
Santa Luzia
The view from this
bougainvillea-clad terrace
spans the tiled roofs of the
Alfama toward the Tagus.
This is a pleasant place to
rest after a walk around
the areas steep streets.
A L FA M A
73
BAIXA
AND
AVENIDA
ALFAMA
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder map 8
BE
CO
DA
CR
S
ZE
BE
CO
D
S
SA
RU
RD
IA
CA
EL
EX
DA
CO
IG
BE
PED
RO
LARGO DO
C H A FA R I Z
DE DENTRO
EC
O
DE
DO P
O
H
RU
IN
C
O
74
LISBON
3 So Vicente
de Fora
Largo de So Vicente. Map 8 E3.
Tel 218 810 500. @ 712, 734. v 28.
Church: Open 9am1pm, 2:305pm
TueSun. Monastery: (incl cloisters)
Open 10am5pm TueSun. 5 & to
cloisters and museum.
A L FA M A
Feira da Ladra
Santa Engrcia
75
Museu Militar
76
LISBON
A L FA M A
77
9 Santo Antnio
S
Largo Santo Antnio S, 24. Map 7
C4. Tel 218 869 145. @ 737. v 12,
28. Open 8am7pm daily (to 8pm
Sat & Sun). 5 Museu Antoniano:
Tel 218 860 447. Open 10am1pm,
26pm TueSun.
The Miradouro and Igreja da Graa seen from the Castelo de So Jorge
0 Castelo de
So Jorge
See pp8081.
Tiled panel recording Pope John Paul IIs visit to Santo Antnio S
q Miradouro da
Graa
Map 8 D2. @ 737. v 12, 28.
80
LISBON
Castelo de So Jorge
HA
ZIN
. Battlements
O
SC
AD
RU
The Ncleo
Museolgico
illustrates the story
of Lisbon through
the ages.
. Observation Terrace
This large shaded square
affords spectacular views over
Lisbon and the Tagus. Local
men play backgammon
and cards under the trees.
Key
Suggested route
A L FA M A
This archaeological
site, the location of
the citys first known
settlement (7th century
BC), reveals much about
Lisbons history.
Porta de
Santo Andr
opens out
into Largo
Rodrigues
de Freitas.
81
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Porta de S. Jorge, Rua do Cho da
Feira. Map 8 D3. Tel 218 800 620.
castelodesaojorge.pt
Open 9am9pm daily (NovFeb:
to 6pm). & 0 - = Torre de
Ulisses: Open 10am5pm daily.
8 every half an hour, with a
maximum of 20 people. Ncleo
Museolgico: Open 9am9pm
daily (NovFeb: to 6pm). Closed
1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 9
Transport
@ 737. v 28.
LARGO
RUZ DE SANTA
C
A
T
N
DE SA
CRUZ DO CASTELO
ORES
AS FL
LHIMENTO
ECO
O R
O D
BEC
SA
NT
CR
CA
ST
EL
RUA D
O
NO D
FOR
DO
CO
BE
RU
CASTELO
Santa Cruz
The narrow, cobbled streets of the
small quarter of Santa Cruz are
tightly packed within the walls
of the old castle.
RUA DO RECOLHIMENTO
0 metres
0 yards
O
O CH
RUA D
IRA
DA FE
Porta de So Jorge
50
50
LISBON
83
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Squares
2 Avenida da Liberdade
3 Praa dos Restauradores
5 Rossio
6 Praa da Figueira
8 Rua Augusta
0 Praa do Comrcio
LU
CI
RD
EI R
O
L
UE
AN
IA
T R
AP
SD
DE
C. DOS M R T I R E R. J
DR A
UL
. AN
IO D
AD
T E L HA L
B . SOU
RU
RU
DE
AS
RT
SANTANA
PO
DE
S.
A
M ONIZ
RO
Martim
Moniz
DA
RU
LAZ A
LA
D.
RU
AN
O
TA
L R I A
AG
RU
A
AN
DA
TO
G
DA AN
L
S
TA TN
RI
A
I PA IO
D
RUA
CA
RIA
EG
R.
DE
S
RU
AL
NI C
DA
I T C
SE
POL
O LA
A
O
S
JO
E SC
RD
Restauradores
Rossio
RU
A M
AR
BE
RU
DE
O
SA
LI
SA
TIM
DE
RU
PA L M A
S
PA S
TA
ID
SALITRE
Avenida
R.
DA
CO
EN
DO
DO
AR
Rossio
A
LEN
DA
MA
A
IR O S
S
O RE
A D
QUE
RU
RAD
FA N
DOU
DOS
ATA
RUA
R
P
DOS
OS
R
REEI
DA
RUA
CO R
A
UST
S
RUA
DOS
AUG
IRO
)
AT E
RO
RUA
SAP
OU
DO
RUA
OS
(R.
D
O
REA
C I F IX L M A D A
RUA
AU
CRU
O A
R. D O
A D
R.
OV
R. N
R. DO CARMO
O
DE S
CIO
MR
RU A
250
0 yards
RUA
250
R.
A
RU
M
TA
TA
AN
RA
RO
BA
I
UE
ES
RU A D
R.
SA
LG
0 metres
AN
DO
RUA
O
R. D
ARS
CO
JU L I
RUA DO
S BACA
LHOEIRO
L
ENA
D
AV E N I
F
A IN
AN
TE
DO
Terreiro
do Pao
HE
NR
IQ
UE
j o
T e
Estao Fluvial
Terreiro do Pao
84
LISBON
Street-by-Street: Restauradores
A
PR AU
T
ES
E
. D
S
ES
O
D OR
D
RA
T
SANTO AN
RU
Restauradores
Key
Suggested route
3 Praa dos
Restauradores
This large tree-lined square,
named after the men who
fought during the 1640 War
of Restoration, is dominated
by a tall obelisk with an
ornate pedestal. There are
caf terraces on the squares
patterned pavements.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Rossio station,
designed by Jos
Lus Monteiro, is
an eye-catching
late 19th-century
Neo-Manueline
building with two
Moorish-style
horseshoe arches.
JA
RD
IM
85
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia
This collection
includes unusual
items from
Portugals
former colonies.
BAIXA AND
AVENIDA
ALFAMA
BAIRRO ALTO
AND ESTRELA
Te j o
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder map 7
R
U
A
D
A
S
P
O
R
TA
E
SA
ED
EG
TO
A
N
T
O
GO
LAR DOR
EGE
R
DO
M
DO
A
A
PRA O D
JO
RA
MA
C
S
ROS
6 Praa da Figueira
Church of
So Domingos
Rossio
GO
LAR SO
S
DE
GO
MIN
DO
O
A D
PRA
IO (
V)
I
O
R
PED
A 1
RU
A
A D
PRA EIRA
FIGU
RO
MB
ZE
DE
DE
Caf
Nicola
Rossio
Tabacaria
Monaco
0 metres
0 yards
50
50
Pastelaria
Suia
5 . Rossio
This attractively paved square is a social
focal point with cafs, pastelarias and
the National Theatre on the north side.
86
LISBON
Jardim Botnico
enjoyment of the
park was restricted
to Lisbons high
society and walls
and gates ensured
the exclusion of the
lower classes. In 1821,
when the Liberals
came to power, the
barriers were pulled
down and the
Avenida and square
became open to all.
The boulevard you
see today was built in
187982 in the style
of the ChampsElyses in Paris.
The wide tree-lined
avenue became a
focus for pageants,
festivities and
demonstrations.
A war memorial
stands as a tribute to
those who died in
World War I. The
19th-century monument in honour of the Restoration in
avenue retains a
Praa dos Restauradores
certain elegance with
fountains and caf tables shaded 3 Praa dos
by trees, but, it no longer makes
Restauradores
for a peaceful stroll. The once
majestic thoroughfare, 90 m
Map 7 A2. @ 709, 711, 736 & many
other routes. q Restauradores.
(295 ft) wide and decorated
with abstract pavement
patterns, is divided by seven
The square, distinguished by
lanes of traffic linking Praa dos
its soaring obelisk, erected in
Restauradores and Praa
1886, commemorates the
Marqus de Pombal to the
countrys liberation from the
north. Some original mansions
Spanish yoke in 1640 (see pp54
are preserved, including the
5). The bronze figures on the
Neo-Classical Tivoli cinema
pedestal depict Victory, holding
at No. 188, with an original
a palm and a crown, and
1920s kiosk outside, and Casa
Freedom. The names and dates
Lambertini with its colourful
inscribed on the obelisk are
mosaic decoration at No. 166.
those of the battles of the
However, many Art Nouveau
War of Restoration.
faades have unfortunately
On the west side, the Palcio
given way to newer ones
Foz houses a tourist office and
occupied by offices, hotels
work premises. It was built by
or shopping complexes.
Francesco Savario Fabri in
175577 for the
Marqus de CasteloMelhor, and was
renamed after the
Marqus de Foz,
who lived here in the
19th century. The smart
Avenida Palace Hotel on
the southwest side of the
square, was designed by
Jos Lis Monteiro (1849
1942), who also built Rossio
Detail from the memorial to the dead of World
railway station (see p86).
War I in Avenida da Liberdade
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
87
4 Museu da
Sociedade de
Geografia
Rua das Portas de Santo Anto 100.
Map 7 A2. Tel 213 425 401. @ 709,
711, 736. q Restauradores.
Open visits by appointment only.
8 compulsory. - 7
Rossio
Praa da Figueira
88
LISBON
A walkway
links the lift
with Largo
do Carmo.
Rua do
Carmo
Rua Augusta
Filigree
motifs
decorate
the wroughtiron shaft.
Steps down
to Rua de
Santa Justa
7 Elevador de
Santa Justa
Rua de Santa Justa & Largo do Carmo.
Map 7 B3. Tel 213 613 000. Open
JunSep: 7am11pm daily; OctMay:
7am10pm daily. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
89
9 Nossa Senhora
da Conceio Velha
0 Praa do
Comrcio
Map 7 C5. @ 711, 714, 732, 759, 794
& many other routes. v 15, 18, 25.
Lisboa Story Centre: Praa do
Comrcio, Ala Nascente 7881. Tel 211
941 099. Open 10am8pm daily. &
LISBON
91
Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Districts
3 Chiado
4 Teatro Nacional de So Carlos
7 Solar do Vinho do Porto
0 Palcio de So Bento
Gardens and Belvederes
8 Miradouro de So Pedro de
Alcntara
9 Praa do Prncipe Real
w Jardim da Estrela
E IR
S O
DE
ED
RU A DA
BO AV IS
DOM LUIS I
TA
R. D
E
S AO
R . D . R I BE
IR
PA U
LO
A
JULHO
NO
RUA
RU A
D AS FLORES
RUA DO
ALECRIM
RUA D. CHAGAS
R. DO
LOR ETO
R. D
O A LM
RU
ADA
R.
DO
OL MO
IV E N T
TE E
MAR
CAL
S
AN
CE
SIN
HA
RE
AI
S
EN
BU
E
R. DAS FR
DE
A
.D
R.
RU
A
N
SA
TE
N
S
O
FA
IN
V.
A
RU
VA
GAR
RETT
R. VITOR CORDON
RU
O
A D
AR
SEN
AL
Cais do Sodr
Santos
Estao
Fluvial
o
T e j
0 metres
0 yards
The ruins of the 14th-century Igreja do Carmo, destroyed by the earthquake of 1755
250
250
ADA
RUA DE
RO
DE
ES
IVEN
24
ANT
NE
LM
D. A
VA
N
VE
A
ID
ABR
RUA
JA
C . RIB E
ES
OS I
RD
DE
DO
PIN TO
TA
MA
DA
L
NE
VE
A
AN
ER
SP
ES
A E
QU
R. D MAR
A
AD
CAL
S
O
NT
SA
IRO
CARL
IN A
DA
OS
IV A
AS
ELHAS
E M IA
AC A D
R . D A CI NC I A S
DAS
O
R. N
QU
DA
O
AD
O
OC
EL H
R. SER PA
DO
TR
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JO
IO
D
M
RE
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A
A
PR
S
A
S.
LIX
DOM
RU
RU
DE
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DOM
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CA
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RU
A
RU
ES
RG
RU
A
DE
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CO
C ARMO
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RUA
I
NE
A
SA EIR
ES LIV
ND A O
C OR . D
CO
RO
PA
D.
EL
DA
CA
R.
DO
TR
AV E N I D
T.
RU
ES
NI
TRINDAD E
DA
OVA
R.N
RICOR D IA
A MISE
R. D
VEAS
R. D A S GA
DA
RO
ROCA
R. DA BAR
A
ATA L A I
A DA
RU
RO SA
DA
RUA
CI
TO
D A
IN T I N H A
BEN
LIT
R UA D O S C U LO
S O
U
R. DA Q
CA
PO
R, NOVA DO LOUREIRO
DE
DE
RU
A
RO
MA
RU
E STR E L A
TO
OLA
RUA
DA
R UA D E S
A E
SC
R. DA
PAZ
RU A DA
CR U
SAO
R.
OA
A NT
IO DE SOUSA
RU
ORGE
R.DE S.J
SA
L
D
A
NA IM
CI PR
O E
NA
LM
T. D
E S. QUITE
RIA
BERNARDO
HO
RU
AL
R.
VA
AI
RV
R. C
EC
IL
AR
CA
DE
Z D O S PO I AIS
Churches
1 So Roque
2 Igreja do Carmo
e Baslica da Estrela
R.DA E M E N D A
92
LISBON
N
D
D
R
Praa Lus
de Cames
O
D M
A RI
RU EC
L
A
C
H
IA
D
O
Baixa/Chiado
G
A
R
50
50
Key
Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
0 yards
0 metres
Tavares, at No. 37
Rua da Misericrdia,
first opened as a
caf in 1784. Today
it is an elegant
restaurant decorated
at the turn of the
century with mirrors
and elaborate
stucco designs.
The statue of Ea de
Queirs (18451900), by Teixeira
Lopes, was erected in 1903. The
great novelist takes inspiration
from a scantily veiled muse.
Rua Garrett
is the main shopping
street of the Chiado.
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A
Elevador da
Glria
93
BAIXA AND
AVENIDA
BAIRRO ALTO
AND ESTRELA
Tejo
IA
Locator Map
Cervejaria
Trindade
is a popular
beer hall and
restaurant decorated with
azulejo panels.
1. So Roque
Opulent mosaics
and semiprecious
stones adorn the
Baroque Capela de
So Joo inside the
16th-century church
of So Roque.
IN
IS
IC
Teatro da
Trindade
TR
IN
D
A
CA
RM
O
RG
EN
TO
LA
ES
SA
SA
CR
AM
DO
C.
TR
RU
2 . Igreja do Carmo
The graceful skeletal arches of this Carmelite
church, once the largest in Lisbon, stand as
a reminder of the earthquake of 1755. The
chancel and main body of the church
house an archaeological museum.
94
LISBON
So Roque
Igreja do Carmo
Largo do Carmo. Map 7 B3.
Tel 213 460 473. v 28 &
Santa Justa lift. @ 758.
Open JunSep: 10am
7pm MonSat; OctMay:
10am6pm MonSat.
Closed Sun. &
So Roques plain
faade belies a
remarkably rich
interior. The church
was founded at
the end of the
16th century by the
The Gothic ruins of this
Jesuit Order, then at the
Carmelite church on a
peak of its power. In
slope overlooking the
Tile detail, Chapel Baixa, are evocative
1742 the Chapel of
of So Roque
St John the Baptist was
reminders of the
commissioned by the
devastation left by
prodigal Joo V from the Italian
the earthquake of 1755. The
architects Luigi Vanvitelli and
church collapsed during mass,
Nicola Salvi. Constructed in
Rome and embellished with
The Chiado Fire
lapis lazuli, agate, alabaster,
amethyst, precious marbles,
On 25 August 1988 a disastrous
gold, silver and mosaics, the
fire began in a store in Rua do
chapel was given the Popes
Carmo, the street that links the
blessing in the church of
Baixa with the Bairro Alto. Fire
SantAntonio dei Portoghesi
engines were unable to enter
in Rome, dismantled and sent
this pedestrianized street and
to Lisbon in three ships.
the fire spread into Rua Garrett.
Among the many tiles in the
Along with shops and offices,
church, the oldest and most
many important 18th-century
interesting are those in the
buildings were destroyed, the
third chapel on the right, dating
worst damage being in Rua do
from the mid-16th century and
Carmo. The renovation project,
dedicated to So Roque
which is now complete, has
(St Roch), protector against
preserved many original faades,
the plague. Other features of
and was headed by Portuguese
the church are the scenes
architect lvaro Siza Vieira.
of the Apocalypse painted on
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Chiado
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A
4 Teatro Nacional
de So Carlos
Rua Serpa Pinto 9. Map 7 A4.
Tel 213 253 000. @ 758, 790.
v 28. q Baixa-Chiado. Open for
performances. tnsc.pt
95
5 Museu Nacional
de Arte
Contempornea
Museu do Chiado
Rua Serpa Pinto 46. Map 7 A5.
Tel 213 432 148. @ 758, 790. v 28.
q Baixa-Chiado. Open 10am6pm
TueSun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
25 Dec. & museuarte
contemporanea.pt
96
LISBON
8 Miradouro de
So Pedro de
Alcntara
Rua de So Pedro de Alcntara. Map 7
A2. @ 758. v 28, Elevador da Glria.
View across the city to Castelo de So Jorge from Miradouro de So Pedro de Alcntara
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A
q Museu Nacional
de Arte Antiga
See pp98101.
Jardim da Estrela
97
Baslica da Estrela
98
LISBON
Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga
q
. St Jerome
This masterly portrayal of old age
by Albrecht Drer expresses one
of the central dilemmas of
Renaissance humanism: the
ephemeral nature of man (1521).
61
Gallery Guide
The ground floor (not shown)
houses research facilities and a
gallery for temporary exhibitions.
The first level contains 14th19thcentury European paintings,
decorative arts and furniture.
Jewellery, Oriental and African
art, and Chinese and Portuguese
ceramics are on the second floor.
The top floor is dedicated to
local art and sculpture.
60
62
59
St Augustine by Piero
della Francesca
63
64
58
Stairs down to
-0m
65
57
56
66
55
68
54
67
69
53
The Temptations of
St Anthony by
Hieronymus Bosch
70
48
52
49
51
50
St Leonard
This sculpture of the saint
was made by Florentine
sculptor Andrea della Robbia
(14351525), the nephew
of Luca della Robbia.
Key to Floorplan
European art
Portuguese painting and sculpture
Portuguese and Chinese ceramics
Oriental and African art
Silver, gold and jewellery
Decorative arts
Chapel of St Albert
Furniture
Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A
99
11
10
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Panels of St Vincent
This polyptych, attributed to
Nuno Gonalves, dates from
about 1470 (see p100).
9
12
Practical Information
Rua das Janelas Verdes.
Map 4 D4.
Tel 213 912 800.
museudearteantiga.pt
Open 26pm Tue, 10am6pm
WedSun. Closed 1 Jan, Easter
Sun, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Sun
am.) 8 (213 912 848.) 7 - 0
8
7
13
Transport
@ 713, 714, 727. v 15, 18.
1
5
4
Second
floor
Faence Violin
The museums ceramics collection
includes many decorative items
made in Portugal for the royal family.
This 19th-century objet dart by
Wenceslau Cifka is decorated with the
royal coat of arms and portraits of
the Italian Baroque composers,
Scarlatti and Corelli.
Third
floor
27
28
26
29
25
30
21
24
23
19
15
14
20
16
18
17
43
42
22
. Namban
Screens
This detail
from one of the
museums
16th-century
Japanese screens
illustrates a
contemporary
trading scene and
the Portuguese
fashion at the time.
41
44
40
39
31
45
33
32
Entrance
34
35
First floor
The Chapel of
St Albert, dating
from the 1500s, has
a Baroque interior
decorated with blue and
white azulejos. It is currently
closed for renovation.
100
LISBON
Panels of St Vincent
European Art
Paintings by European artists,
dating from the 14th to the
19th century, are arranged
chronologically on the ground
floor. Unlike the Portuguese
art, most of these works were
donated from private collections, contributing to the great
diversity of works on display.
The first rooms, dedicated to
the 14th and 15th centuries,
trace the transition from
medieval Gothic taste to the
aesthetic of the Renaissance.
The painters best represented
in the European Art section are
16th-century German and
Flemish artists. Notable works
here include St Jerome by
Albrecht Drer (14711528),
Salom by Lucas Cranach the
Elder (14721553), Virgin and
Child by Hans Memling (c.1430
94) and The Temptations of St
Anthony by the great Flemish
master of fantasy, Hieronymus
Bosch (14501516). Of the
small number of Italian works
Portuguese Painting
and Sculpture
Many of the earliest works are
by the Portuguese primitive
painters, such as Josefa de
bidos (see p55), who were
influenced by the realistic detail
of Flemish artists. There had
always been strong trading
links between Portugal and
Flanders, and in the 15th and
16th centuries several painters
of Flemish origin, for example
Frey Carlos of vora, set up
workshops in Portugal.
Also in this section is the So
Vicente de Fora polyptych, the
main painting of 15th-century
Portuguese art and one that has
become a symbol of national
pride in the Age of Discovery.
Cistercian monks
from Alcobaa
(see pp1845)
Friar
Fisherman
B A I R R O A LT O A N D E S T R E L A
Queen Eleonor of
Aragon, the Queen
mother
Henry the
Navigator
(see p53)
Queen Isabel
Infante Joo
(King Joo II)
King Afonso V
Moorish knight
Archbishop
of Lisbon, Jorge
da Costa
Infante Ferno,
the kings brother
101
Jewish scholar
Beggar
Knight
St Vincent
Duke of
Bragana
City official
holding a fragment
of St Vincents skull
LISBON
103
BELM
At the mouth of the River Tagus, where the
caravels set sail on their voyages of discovery,
Belm is inextricably linked with Portugals
Golden Age (see pp5053). When Manuel I
came to power in 1495 he reaped the profits
of those heady days of expansion, building
grandiose monuments and churches that
mirrored the spirit of the time. Two of the
finest examples of the exuberant and exotic
Manueline style of architecture (see pp289)
are the Mosteiro dos Jernimos and the
Torre de Belm. Today Belm is a spacious,
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
2 Museu Nacional dos Coches
5 Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
6 Planetrio Calouste Gulbenkian
7 Museu de Marinha
0 Museu de Arte Popular
Monuments
9 Monument to the Discoveries
Cultural Centres
8 Centro Cultural de Belm
Historic Buildings
1 Palcio de Belm
q Torre de Belm p112
t Palcio Nacional da Ajuda
C. DO
M IR A N T E
A
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RUA
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VIL
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4
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NIDA
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RUA
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ZA
ME M
AL
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SL
BRA
NID
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DE
B E L M
NDI
Belm
Estao Fluvial
de Belm
j o
T e
0 metres
0 yards
400
400
104
LISBON
Street-by-Street: Belm
Portugals former maritime glory, expressed in
the imposing, exuberant buildings such as the
Jernimos monastery, is evident all around
Belm. In Salazars (see p60) attempted revival
of awareness of Portugals Golden Age, the area
along the waterfront, which had silted up since
the days of the caravels, was restructured to
celebrate the former greatness of the nation.
Praa do Imprio was laid out for the Exhibition
of the Portuguese World in 1940 and Praa
Afonso de Albuquerque was dedicated to
Portugals first viceroy of India. The royal
Palcio de Belm, restored with gardens
and a riding school by Joo V in the
18th century, briefly housed the royal
family after the 1755 earthquake.
LARGO
DOS
JERNIMOS
IO
R
MP
O I
D
A
A
PR
5 Museu Nacional
de Arqueologia
Archaeological finds ranging
from an Iron Age gold
bracelet to Moorish artifacts
are among the interesting
exhibits on display.
Torre
de Belm
(see p112)
0 metres
0 yards
50
50
Key
Suggested route
Praa do
Imprio, an impressive
square that opens out in
front of the monastery, is lit
up on special occasions with
a colourful light display in
the central fountain.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
BELM
105
3 Jardim Botnico
Tropical
Exotic plants and
trees gathered from
Portugals former
colonies fill these
peaceful gardens that
were once part of the
Palcio de Belm.
Rua Vieira Portuense runs along a small
park. Its colourful 16th- and 17th-century
houses contrast with the typically imposing
buildings in Belm.
BELM
Tejo
Locator Map
See Lisbon Street Finder maps 1 & 2
T R AV E S S A
DOS FERRE
IROS
TA
T. M A R
PINTO
RUA DE BELM
RUA VIEIR
A PORTUE
NSE
1 Palcio de Belm
Praa Afonso de
Albuquerque is
named after the
first Portuguese
viceroy of India.
A Neo-Manueline
column in the
centre bears his
statue, with scenes
from his life carved
on the base.
Central
Lisbon
106
LISBON
Palcio de Belm
Pink faade of the Palcio de Belm, the ocial residence of the President of Portugal
2 Museu Nacional
dos Coches
Praa Afonso de Albuquerque. Map 2
D4. Tel 213 610 850. @ 714, 727, 728,
729, 751. v15. Belm. Open
10am6pm TueSun. Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free first
Sun of month). 8 available for
groups. 7 museudoscoches.pt
BELM
107
108
LISBON
Refectory
The walls of the refectory are tiled with
18th-century azulejos. The panel at the
northern end depicts the Feeding
of the Five Thousand.
KEY
1 Gallery
2 The west portal was designed
by the French sculptor Nicolau
Chanterne.
3 The modern wing, built in
1850 in Neo-Manueline style, houses
the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia
(see p107).
Entrance to church
and cloister
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
BELM
. Cloister
Joo de Castilhos pure
Manueline creation was
completed in 1544. Delicate
tracery and richly carved
images decorate the arches
and balustrades.
109
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Praa do Imprio. Map 1 B4.
Tel 213 620 034. Open 10am
5:30pm (NovMar: to 6:30pm). 5
& (free Sun am, public hols). 7
Transport
@ 714, 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
Belem.
Nave
The spectacular
vaulting in the
church of Santa
Maria is held aloft
by slender
octagonal pillars.
These rise like
palm trees to the
roof creating a
feeling of space
and harmony.
. South Portal
The strict geometrical
architecture of the portal
is almost obscured by the
exuberant decoration.
Joo de Castilho unites
religious themes, such as
this image of St Jerome,
with the secular, exalting
the kings of Portugal.
110
LISBON
Museu de
Marinha
7
8 Centro Cultural
de Belm
Praa do Imprio. Map 1 B5. Tel 213
612 400. @ 727, 728, 729, 751. v 15.
Belm. Berardo Collection
Museum: Tel 213 612 878.
Open 10am7pm TueSun. 7
ccb.pt; museuberardo.pt
BELM
111
0 Museu de Arte
Popular
Avenida de Braslia. Map 1 B5. Tel 213
011 282. @ 727, 728, 729. v15.
Belm. Open 10am6pm WedSun.
Closed 12pm Sat & Sun.
Afonso V
(143281),
patron of the
first explorers
Henry the Navigator
(13941460)
Vasco da Gama
(14601524)
Pedro lvares
Cabral (14671520),
discoverer of Brazil
Ferno Magalhes
(Magellan), who crossed
the Pacific in 152021
Padro erected
by Diogo Co in the
Congo in 1482
112
LISBON
Torre de Belm
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Avenida de Brasilia. Map 1 A5. Tel
213 620 034. Open 10am6:30pm
TueSun (OctApr: to 5:30pm).
Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun, 1 May,
25 Dec. & (free until 2pm Sun &
public hols). 7 ground floor only.
Transport
@ 729. v 15. Belm.
Armillary spheres
and nautical rope are
symbols of Portugals
seafaring prowess.
Renaissance Loggia
The elegant arcaded
loggia, inspired by
Italian architecture,
gives a light touch to
the defensive
battlements of
the tower.
Royal coat
of arms of
Virgin and Child
Manuel I
A statue of Our Lady of Safe
Homecoming faces the sea, a
symbol of protection for sailors
on their voyages of discovery.
Chapel
Battlements are
decorated with the
cross of the Order of
Christ (see pp289).
Kings Room
Entrance
Sentry
posts
Gangway
to shore
BELM
113
t Palcio Nacional
da Ajuda
Calada da Ajuda. Map 2 D2. Tel 213
620 264. @ 714, 732, 742, 760. v18.
Open 10am5:30pm ThuTue (last
entry 5pm). Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
1 May, 25 Dec. & (free 10am2pm
Sun). 7 8
LISBON
115
FURTHER AFIELD
Most of the outlying sights, which include
some of Lisbons finest museums, are easily
accessible by bus or metro from the city
centre. A ten-minute walk north from the
gardens of the Parque Eduardo VII brings
you to Portugals great cultural complex, the
Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation, set in a
pleasant park. Few tourists go further north
than the Gulbenkian, but the Museu da Cidade
on Campo Grande is worth a detour for its
fascinating overview of Lisbons history.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Architecture
5 Praa Marqus de Pombal
9 Campo Pequeno
y Aqueduto das guas Livres
u Palcio Fronteira
Key
Main sightseeing areas
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Zoos
e Oceanrio de Lisboa
t Jardim Zoolgico
Modern Architecture
1 Cristo Rei
2 Ponte 25 de Abril
4 Centro Colombo
w Parque das Naes
0 kilometres
0 miles
Vila Franca
de Xira
A9
IC
Lisbon
IC1
17
IC
Benca
Campo
Grande
IC1
9
Amadora
Olivais
A1
IP1
IC2
Pontinha
IC19
4
2
17
N1
PARQUE
Xabregas
Estefnia
FLORESTAL
Carnaxide
IC1
A5
Cascais
DE
IC17
MONSANTO
Graa
N6
Alcntara
Montijo
N6
Belm
Barreiro
Cacilhas
IP7 A2 (E1
Tejo
Almada
Setbal
N10
Porto
Brando
Seixal
116
LISBON
Cristo Rei
Ponte 25 de Abril
3 Fundao
Oriente Museu
Avenida Braslia Doca de Alcntara
Norte. Map 3 B5. Tel 213 585 200.
@ 12, 28, 714, 738, 742. Open
10am6pm TueSun (to 10pm Fri).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7 0 museudooriente.pt
Ponte 25 de Abril linking central Lisbon with Margem Sul, the south bank of the Tagus
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
FURTHER AFIELD
117
6 Parque
Eduardo VII
Praa Marqus de Pombal. Map 5 B4.
q Marqus de Pombal. @ 711,
712, 736. Estufa Fria: Tel 213 882 278.
Open 10am7pm daily (NovMar:
9am5pm). Closed 1 Jan, 1 May,
25 Dec. &
Centro Colombo
118
LISBON
Mustard Barrel
This 18th-century silver
mustard barrel was made
in France by Antoine
Sbastien Durand.
14
13
15
17
16
. Diana
This fine marble statue
(1780) by the French
sculptor Jean-Antoine
Houdon, was once owned
by Catherine the Great of
Russia. The graceful Diana,
goddess of the hunt, is
portrayed in motion, with
a bow and arrow in hand.
Entrance
Stairs to
0m
12
FURTHER AFIELD
119
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Avenida de Berna 45.
Map 5 B2. Tel 217 823 000.
Open 10am6pm TueSun.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter Sun,
1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Sun).
7-0
museu.gulbenkian.pt
Transport
q Praa de Espanha or So
Sebastio. @ 716, 726, 742, 756.
10
Renaissance art
11
Gallery Guide
The galleries are laid out both
chronologically and geographically, the first section (rooms
16) dedicated to Classical and
Oriental art, the second section
(rooms 717) housing the
European collection of paintings,
sculpture, furniture, silverware
and jewellery.
6
8
7
5
Armenian art
1
2
3
4
Persian
faence
Key to Floorplan
120
LISBON
French ivory triptych of Scenes from the Life of the Virgin (14th century)
FURTHER AFIELD
masterpiece of psychological
penetration, and Pallas Athena
(c.165559), said to have been
modelled on Rembrandts son,
Titus, and previously thought to
have portrayed Alexander the
Great. Rubens is represented
by three paintings, the most
remarkable of which is the
Portrait of Hlne Fourment
(c.1630), the artists second wife.
The gallery beyond the Dutch
and Flemish paintings has
tapestries and textiles from Italy
and Flanders, Italian ceramics,
rare 15th-century medallions
and sculpture.
French 18th-Century
Decorative Arts
Some remarkably elaborate
Louis XV and Louis XVI pieces,
many commissioned by royalty,
feature in the collection of
French 18th-century furniture.
The exhibits, many of them
embellished with laquer panels,
ebony and bronze, are grouped
together according to historical
style with Beauvais and
chinoiserie Aubusson
tapestries decorating the walls.
The French silverware from
the same period, much of which
once adorned Russian palaces
dining tables, includes lavishly
decorated soup tureens, saltcellars and platters.
121
View of the Molo with the Ducal Palace (c.1790) by Francesco Guardi
Lalique Collection
The tour of the museum ends
with an entire room filled with
the flamboyant creations of
French Art Nouveau jeweller,
Ren Lalique (18601945).
Gulbenkian was a close friend of
Laliques and he acquired many
of the pieces of jewellery,
glassware and ivory on display
here directly from the artist. Inlaid
with semi-precious stones and
covered with gold leaf or
enamel, the brooches, necklaces,
vases and combs are decorated
with the dragonfly, peacock or
sensual female nude motifs
characteristic of Art Nouveau.
Calouste Gulbenkian
122
LISBON
Campo Pequeno
Museu da gua
q Museu Nacional
do Azulejo
See pp1245.
FURTHER AFIELD
123
Museu da Cidade
124
LISBON
Dona Leonor, widow of King Joo II, founded the Convento da Madre de
Deus in 1509. Originally built in Manueline style, the church was restored
under Joo III using simple Renaissance designs. The striking Baroque
decoration was added by Joo V. The convent cloisters provide a stunning
setting for the National Tile Museum. Decorative panels, individual tiles
and photographs trace the evolution of tile-making from its introduction
by the Moors, through Spanish influence and the development
of Portugals own style (see pp3031), up to the present day.
Hunting Scene
Artisans rather than artists began
to decorate tiles in the 17th
century. This detail shows a
naive representation of a hunt.
Level 2
Kitchen Tiles
The walls of the
restaurant are lined
with 19th-century
tiles showing
hanging game,
including wild boar
and pheasant.
Gallery Guide
The rooms around the central
cloister are arranged chronologically with the oldest tiles on the
ground floor. Access to the Madre
de Deus is via level 1 of the museum.
The front entrance of the church is
used only during religious services.
Key to Floorplan
Level 1
. Nossa Senhora
da Vida
This detail showing
St John is part of a fine
16th-century maiolica
altarpiece. The central
panel of the huge work
depicts The Adoration
of the Shepherds.
Moorish tiles
16th-century tiles
17th-century tiles
18th-century tiles
19th-century tiles
20th-century tiles
Temporary exhibition space
Non-exhibition space
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
FURTHER AFIELD
125
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Moorish Tiles
Decorated
with a
stylized
animal motif,
this 15th-century
tile is typical of
Moorish azulejo
patterns.
Level 3
Practical Information
Rua da Madre de Deus 4. Tel 218
100 340. museudoazulejo.pt
Open 10am6pm TueSun (last
adm: 30 mins before closing).
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May,
25 Dec. & (free 10am2pm Sun).
-0
Transport
@ 718, 728, 742, 759, 794.
Panorama of Lisbon
A striking 18th-century panel
on the top floor depicts Lisbon
before the 1755 earthquake (see
pp667). This detail shows the
royal palace on Terreiro do Pao.
Entrance
The Renaissance
cloister is the work
of Diogo de Torralva
(150066).
. Madre de Deus
Completed in the mid-16th century,
it was not until two centuries later,
under Joo V, that the church of
Madre de Deus acquired its ornate
decoration. The sumptuous
Rococo altarpiece was added
after the earthquake of 1755.
The carved Manueline portal
(see p29) was recreated from a
16th-century painting.
. Manueline Cloister
An important surviving feature of the original
convent is the graceful Manueline cloister.
Fine geometrical patterned tiles were added
to the cloister walls in the 19th century.
126
LISBON
Jardim Zoolgico
Imposing arches of the Aqueduto das guas Livres spanning the Alcntara valley
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
FURTHER AFIELD
127
Palcio Fronteira
128
LISBON
SHOPPING IN LISBON
Lisbon offers excellent shopping
opportunities for the visitor with its
combination of elegant high street shops,
large modern shopping centres and flea
markets. The cobbled streets of the Baixa
and the chic Chiado district are the citys
traditional shopping areas and the wine
merchants are the best in the country.
Opening Hours
Shopping Centres
How to Pay
Most shops in Lisbon accept
Visa but it is probably better to
obtain a cash advance with a
credit card from one of the
many Multibanco teller
machines (ATMs).
SHOPPING IN LISBON
129
Antiques
Clothes
Most of the large chain
stores have outlets in Lisbon,
particularly in the shopping
centres. The Spanish Zara
Regional Crafts
Portugal has a rich history of
fine craftwork (artesanato),
notably embroidery, fine lace,
hand-knitted woollens and
delicate gold and silver thread
jewellery. Head for the gift
DIRECTORY
Shopping Centres
Amoreiras
Avenida Eng. Duarte
Pacheco, Amoreiras.
Map 5 A5. Tel 213 810
200. amoreiras.com
Centro Colombo
Avenida Lusada. Tel 217
113 636. colombo.pt
El Corte Ingls
Avenida Antnio
Augusto Aguiar 31.
Map 5 B5. Tel 707 211
711. elcorteingles.pt
Vasco da Gama
Avenida Dom Joo ll,
Parque das Naes.
Tel 218 930 601.
centrovasco
dagama.pt
Feira dos
Alfarrabistas
Discoteca
Amlia
Feira de
Antiguidades e
Velharias
Estao Oriente.
Open 3rd Sun of month.
Loja Degustarte
Rua Garcia de Orta 12.
Map 4 D3.
Tel 966 634 518.
Manuel Tavares
Rua da Betesga 1. Map 7
B3. Tel 213 424 209.
Arte Rstica
Rua Augusta 193,
First Floor, Baixa.
Map 7 B4.
Tel 213 461 004.
Rua Nova do
Almada 102,
Chiado. Map 7 B4
Tel 707 313 435.
Livraria
Bertrand
Antiques
Livraria Olisipo
Clothes
Ana Salazar
Zara
FNAC
Regional Crafts
Solar
Rua Dom Pedro V 70,
Bairro Alto.
Map 4 F2.
Tel 213 465 522.
130
LISBON
ENTERTAINMENT IN LISBON
For a smallish European capital, Lisbon has
a good and varied cultural calendar. Musical
events range from classical and opera
performances to intimate fado evenings,
and large rock concerts. Dance, both classical
and modern, is well represented in Lisbon.
The Gulbenkian Foundation, long the only
Booking Tickets
Tickets can be reserved by
phoning the Agncia de
Bilhetes para Espectculos
Pblicos (ABEP). Pay in cash
when you collect them from
the kiosk. Tickets are also sold
at FNAC. Not all cinemas and
theatres accept credit card
bookings check first.
Listings Magazines
Previews of forthcoming
cultural events plus listings
and reviews of the citys latest
bars and clubs appear each
week in major news-papers.
English-language publications
on offer include the monthly
Follow Me Lisboa, which can
be obtained free from tourist
offices. The monthly Agenda
Cultural is in Portuguese.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N L I S B O N
Nightclubs
131
Spectator Sports
Portugal hosted the 2004
European Football Championship, and Lisbons two main
teams, Sporting and Benfica,
built new stadiums for the
event, the Estdio Jos
Alvalade and the Estdio da
Luz respectively. Portuguese
football cup finals, as well as
other events such as the Estoril
Open tennis tournament, are
held at the Estdio NacionalJamor. The MEO Arena is also
used for indoor events such as
tennis, volleyball and basketball.
The Autdromo do Estoril is a
motor-racing venue.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets
ABEP
Praa dos Restauradores.
Map 7 A2.
Tel 213 425 360.
FNAC
Rua Nova do Almada 102.
Map 7 B4.
Tel 707 313 435.
Cinema and
Theatre
Chapit
Costa do Castelo 7.
Map 7 C3.
Tel 218 855 550.
Cinemateca
Portuguesa
Classical Music,
Opera and Dance
Centro Cultural
de Belm
Praa do Imprio.
Map 1 C5.
Tel 213 612 400.
Teatro Cames
Teatro Nacional de
So Carlos
Teatro da Trindade
Hot Clube
Fundao Calouste
Gulbenkian
King Triplex
MEO Arena
Lux
Costa do Castelo 1.
Map 7 C3.
Tel 218 855 550.
Bart
World Music,
Jazz, Pop
and Rock
B.Leza
Rua Cintura do Porto de
Lisboa 16,
Armazem B.
Map 4 D1.
Tel 210 106 837.
Speakeasy
Cais das Oficinas,
Armazm 115, Rocha
Conde dbidos.
Map 4 D4.
Tel 213 964 257.
Nightclubs
Main
Avenida 24 de Julho 68.
Map 4 E3.
Tel 213 957 101.
Ritz Clube
Rua da Glria 57.
Map 4 F1.
Tel 937 900 343.
Silk Club
Rua da Misericrdia 14,
6th Floor.
Map 7 A4.
Tel 913 009 193.
Sports
Autdromo do Estoril
Tel 214 609 500.
Bar Lounge
Rua da Moeda 1.
Map 4 F3.
Tel 213 973 730.
Avenida de Braslia,
Belm.
Map 1 A5.
Tel 213 624 232.
Estdio da Luz
Frgil
Estdio NacionalJamor
Cruz Quebrada.
Tel 214 156 400.
132
LISBON
TA S
OB E R
D E SC
C A L A DA D
A AJUDA
DAS
DE C E U TA
IDA
AV E N
NID
A
AD
LH E IR A
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DA
A
D
I
AV E N
Belm
AV E
AV E N I D A D A
P O N TE
EIR A
Te j o
Viewpoint
Place of interest
Tourist information
Railway line
Railway station
Motorway
Metro station
Police station
Pedestrianized street
Church
Tram stop
Synagogue
Funicular
Mosque
EN
DA
AV E N
AV E N I
AV
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DO
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LA
D A INF
A NT
ES
A
Bairro Alto
and Estrela
AV E N I
E
AV
N ID
4 DE J U L H O
A 2
Te j o
250
250
200
200
0 kilometres
0 miles
1
0.5
133
134
7 B3
3 A4
5 C1
3 C4
A
Abade Faria, Rua
Ablio Lopes do Rego,
Rua
Academia de Belas Artes,
Largo da
Academia das Cincias,
Rua da
Academia Recreativa
de Santo Amaro, Rua
Acesso Ponte
Aores, Rua dos
Actor Isidoro, Rua
Actor Taborda, Rua
Actor Tasso, Rua
Actor Vale, Rua
Actriz Virgnia, Rua
Aucenas, Rua das
Adelas, Rua das
Adro, Travessa do
Afrnio Peixoto, Praa
Afonso Costa, Avenida
Afonso de Albuquerque,
Praa
Afonso Domingues, Rua
Agostinho de Carvalho,
Calada de
guas Livres, Travessa
Ajuda, Calada da
Ajuda, Calada da
Ajuda, Largo da
Alcaide, Travessa do
Alcntara, Rua de
Alcolena, Rua de
Alecrim, Rua do
Alegria, Praa da
Alegria, Rua da
Alexandre Braga, Rua
Alexandre Herculano,
Rua
Alexandre de S Pinto,
Rua
Alfndega, Rua da
Alfredo Corts, Rua
Alfredo da Silva, Rua
Alfredo Roque Gameiro,
Rua
Alfredo Soares, Rua
Aliana Operria, Rua
Almada, Rua do
Almada, Travessa do
Almas, Travessa das
Almeida Brando, Rua
Almeida e Sousa, Rua
Almirante Barroso, Rua
Almirante Gago
Coutinho, Avenida
Almirante Reis, Avenida
Alto do Duque, Rua do
lvaro Coutinho, Rua
lvaro Esteves, Rua
lvaro Pais, Avenida
Alves Redol, Rua
Alves Torgo,
Rua (ao Areeiro)
Alves Torgo,
Rua (a Arroios)
Alvito, Estrada do
Alvito, Rua do
Amendoeira, Rua da
Amrico Duro, Rua
Amoreiras, Rua das
( Ajuda)
Amoreiras, Rua das
(ao Rato)
6 F2
3 C3
7 B5
4 F2
2 F3
3 A3
6 D3
6 E2
6 D3
5 C4
6 F3
6 E2
1 C2
4 E2
7 B2
6 E1
6 F1
1 C4
8 F1
7 C2
5 A5
2 D2
2 F2
2 D2
4 F3
3 A4
1 A3
7 A5
4 F1
4 F1
6 D4
5 C5
2 D4
7 C5
5 C1
2 D3
5 A1
1 B2
2 E3
4 F3
7 C4
3 C2
4 D2
3 C1
6 D3
6 E1
6 E5
1 A3
6 E5
1 B3
5 B1
6 D2
6 E1
6 E3
2 F1
3 A3
8 D2
6 F2
2 D3
5 A5
3 B4
Baslica da Estrela
Beatas, Rua das
Bela Vista, Rua da ( Graa)
Bela Vista, Rua da ( Lapa)
Belm, Rua de
Bempostinha, Rua da
Beneficncia, Rua da
Benformoso, Rua do
Berna, Avenida de
Bernardim Ribeiro, Rua
Bernardino Costa, Rua
Bernardo Lima, Rua
Betesga, Rua da
Bica do Marqus, Rua da
Boa Hora, Calada da
Boa Hora, Travessa da
(ao Bairro Alto)
Boa Hora, Travessa da
( Ajuda)
Boavista, Rua da
Bombarda, Rua da
Bombeiros, Avenida dos
Boqueiro do Duro,
Rua
Boqueiro
de Ferreiros, Rua
Borges Carneiro, Rua
Borja, Rua do
Braamcamp, Rua
Brs Pacheco, Rua
Braslia, Avenida de
Brito Aranha, Rua
Brotero, Rua
Buenos Aires, Rua de
4 E1
6 D2
5 B5
5 A5
7 A4
5 C4
6 E5
5 C4
3 B2
6 F5
6 E4
6 E5
1 A2
6 E5
1 A4
5 B3
5 C3
1 A1
6 D2
6 F3
7 A5
6 E4
6 E3
1 A2
5 C1
5 A5
3 C3
3 B1
7 B2
8 E2
2 D2
4 D1
3 C4
4 E2
6 D3
6 E4
7 B5
5 A4
6 F4
2 E4
7 B4
7 A5
4 F2
7 B3
6 D1
2 D2
6 E2
8 D4
7 B4
3 C1
B
Bacalhoeiros, Rua dos
Baro, Rua do
Baro de Sabrosa, Rua
Barata Salgueiro, Rua
Barbadinhos, Calada
dos
Barbosa du Bocage,
Avenida
Barracas, Rua das
Barroca, Rua da
Bartolomeu da Costa,
Rua
Bartolomeu Dias, Rua
7 C4
8 D4
6 F2
5 C5
8 F1
5 C2
6 E5
4 F2
8 F1
1 A5
Cabo, Rua do
Cabo Verde, Rua de
Caetano Alberto, Rua
Caetanos, Rua dos
Cais de Santarm,
Rua do
Calado, Travessa do
Calouste Gulbenkian,
Avenida
Camilo Castelo Branco,
Rua
Caminhos de Ferro,
Rua dos
Campo dos Mrtires
da Ptria
Campo de Ourique,
Rua de
Campo Pequeno
Campo de Santa Clara
Campolide, Rua de
Capelo, Rua do
Capelo, Rua
Capito Afonso Pala, Rua
Capito Humberto de
Atade, Rua
Capito Renato Baptista,
Rua
Cara, Travessa da
Cardal Graa, Rua do
Cardal, Rua do
Cardeal Cerejeira,
Alameda
Cardeal, Calada do
Cardeal Mercier, Rua
Carlos Alberto da Mota
Pinto, Rua
Carlos Calisto, Rua
Carlos Jos Barreiros,
Rua
Carlos da Maia, Rua
Carlos Mardel, Rua
Carlos Reis, Rua
Carmo, Calada do
4 D2
8 E1
8 E1
4 D2
1 C4
6 D5
5 A1
7 C1
5 B2
5 C5
7 A5
5 C4
7 B3
2 D3
2 E3
4 F2
2 D3
4 F3
7 C1
1 B1
4 E3
4 E3
4 D3
3 B3
5 B5
6 D2
1 A5
6 D2
1 C3
4 D3
4 D1
6 E5
6 D2
4 F2
8 D4
6 F4
5 A2
5 C5
8 D3
6 D5
7 B1
4 D1
5 C1
8 F2
5 A4
7 C2
7 A4
3 B3
8 F1
6 E5
7 B1
4 F2
8 E1
7 A1
5 B4
8 F2
5 A1
5 A5
1 B2
6 E3
3 C1
6 E3
5 B1
7 A3
Carmo, Travessa do
Carmo, Rua do
Carrio, Rua do
Carvalho, Travessa do
Carvalho Arajo, Rua
Casa dos Bicos
Casal Ribeiro, Avenida
Casal Ventoso de Baixo
Casal Ventoso de Cima
Casalinho da Ajuda,
Rua do
Cascais, Rua
Casco, Calada do
Caselas, Estrada de
Castelo Branco Saraiva,
Rua
Castelo Pico,
Calada do
Castelo Pico, Rua do
Castilho, Rua
Cavaleiro de Oliveira,
Rua
Cavaleiros, Rua dos
Ceclio de Sousa, Rua
Cemitirio da Ajuda
Cemitrio dos Prazeres
Centro de Arte Moderna
Centro Cultural de Belm
Cesrio Verde, Rua
Cesteiros, Calada dos
Ceuta, Avenida de
Chagas, Rua das
Chamins dEl Rei, Rua
Cho da Feira, Rua do
Chiado
Chiado, Largo do
Chile, Praa do
Cidade Avintes, Travessa
Cidade da Horta, Rua
Cidade de Cardiff, Rua
Cima dos Quartis,
Travessa de
Clube Atltico e Recreativo
do Caramo, Rua
Clube de Tnis,
Estrada do
Coelho da Rocha, Rua
Colgio de So Jos,
Rua do
Columbano Bordalo
Pinheiro, Avenida
Combatentes, Avenida
dos
Combro, Calada do
Combro, Travessa do
Comrcio, Praa do
Comrcio, Rua do
Conceio, Rua da
Conceio da Glria,
Rua da
Conde, Rua do
Conde Baro, Largo do
Conde de Monsaraz,
Rua
Conde de Pombeiro,
Calada do
Conde da Ponte,
Travessa do
Conde de Redondo,
Rua do
Conde da Ribeira,
Travessa do
Conde de Valbom,
Avenida
Condes, Rua dos
Condessa, Rua da
Condessa do Rio,
Travessa da
Conselheiro Arantes
Pedroso, Rua
Conselheiro Fernando de
Sousa, Avenida
7 A4
7 B4
7 A1
4 F3
6 F3
8 D4
6 D3
3 B2
3 B1
2 E2
3 B4
8 F3
1 B2
6 F5
4 E3
8 D4
4 F1
5 A4
6 E3
7 C2
4 F1
1 C2
3 B2
5 B3
1 B5
6 F4
8 F2
3 A2
4 F3
1 C1
8 D3
7 A5
7 A4
6 E3
8 F2
6 D3
6 E4
3 C1
1 C1
3 A2
3 C1
1 A2
5 A2
5 A1
4 F2
4 D3
7 C5
7 B5
7 B4
4 F1
4 D3
4 E3
6 F4
6 E5
3 A5
5 C5
2 F3
5 B2
7 A2
7 A3
4 F3
7 B1
5 A4
Conselheiro Martins de
Carvalho, Rua
Convento de Jesus,
Travessa do
Cordeiro de Sousa, Rua
Cordoeiros, Rua dos
Coronel Eduardo
Galhardo, Avenida
Castelo de So Jorge
Coronel Ferreira
do Amaral, Rua
Coronel Pereira da Silva,
Rua
Corpo Santo, Rua do
Correeiros, Rua dos
Correia Teles, Rua
Correio Velho,
Calada do
Corvos, Rua dos
Costa, Rua da
Costa, Travessa da
Costa do Castelo
Costa Goodolfim, Rua
Costa Pimenta, Rua
Cova da Moura, Rua da
Cozinha Econmica,
Rua da
Crucifixo, Rua do
Cruz, Estrada da
(ao Caramo)
Cruz, Rua da
(a Alcntara)
Cruz, Rua da (a Caselas)
Cruz, Travessa da
(do Torel)
Cruz da Carreira, Rua da
Cruz do Desterro,
Travessa
Cruz dos Poiais, Rua da
Cruz Vermelha, Rua da
Cruzeiro, Rua do
Cura, Rua do
1 C2
4 F2
5 C1
4 F3
6 F4
8 D3
6 E2
2 D3
7 A5
7 B4
3 C1
7 C4
8 E3
3 B3
3 B3
7 C3
6 D2
3 B1
3 B3
3 A4
7 B4
1 B2
3 A3
1 A1
7 B1
6 D5
7 B1
4 E2
5 B1
2 E2
4 D3
D
Damo, Praa de
Damasceno Monteiro,
Rua
David Melgueiro,
Rua
David de Sousa, Rua
Defensores de Chaves,
Avenida dos
Descobertas,
Avenida das
Desterro, Calada do
Desterro, Rua do
Dirio de Notcias, Rua
Dinis Dias, Rua
Dio, Praa de
Diogo Co, Rua
Diogo Gomes, Rua
Diogo de Silves, Rua
Diogo de Teive, Rua
Dom Afonso Henriques,
Alameda
Dom Carlos I, Avenida
Dom Constantino de
Bragana, Rua
Dom Cristvo da Gama,
Rua,
Dom Duarte, Rua
Dom Francisco
de Almeida, Rua
Dom Francisco Manuel
de Melo, Rua
Dom Joo V, Rua
Dom Joo de Castro,
Rua
Dom Loureno
de Almeida, Rua
Dom Lus I, Rua
Dom Lus de Noronha,
Rua
1 A4
6 E5
8 D1
1 A4
6 D1
5 C2
1 A2
7 C1
7 B1
7 A4
1 A4
1 A4
2 E3
1 A4
1 B2
1 B2
6 E2
4 E3
1 A3
1 A4
7 B3
1 A4
5 A4
4 D1
2 E3
1 B4
4 E3
5 A2
6 D5
6 D4
E
Ea de Queirs, Rua
Eduardo Bairrada, Rua
Eduardo Coelho, Rua
Eduardo da Costa, Rua
Egas Moniz, Rua
Elevador de Santa Justa
Elias Garcia, Avenida
Embaixador Teixeira de
Sampaio, Rua
Embaixador, Rua do
Emenda, Rua da
Engenheiro Duarte
Pacheco, Avenida
Engenheiro Miguel Pais,
Calada
Engenheiro Santos
Simes, Rua
Engenheiro Vieira
da Silva, Rua
Entrecampos, Rua de
Entremuros do Mirante,
Rua de
Ermida de So Jernimo
Escola Arajo,
Travessa da
Escola do Exrcito,
Rua da
Escola de Medicina
Veterinria, Rua da
Escola Politcnica,
Rua da
Escolas Gerais, Rua das
Espanha, Praa de
Espera, Travessa da
Esperana, Rua da
Esperana do Cardal,
Rua
Esprito Santo, Beco do
Estdio Municipal
do Restelo
Estrela, Calada da
Estrela, Praa da
Estrela, Rua da
5 C4
2 D2
4 F2
6 F4
6 F2
7 B3
5 C2
3 C3
2 D4
4 F3
5 A5
4 E1
6 F2
5 C3
5 C1
8 F2
1 A3
6 D4
4 E1
8 E3
5 A2
7 A4
4 E3
7 A1
8 E4
1 B3
4 E2
4 D2
4 D2
5 B5
7 A2
7 C4
7 C3
7 A1
8 E2
3 A3
4 F3
6 D2
1 A3
5 C3
1 A5
7 A5
3 C1
6 D4
3 C3
4 E2
1 C4
5 A3
4 F2
7 B3
2 F3
5 A1
5 C3
7 A4
2 D3
2 E2
3 A4
6 F1
5 C4
7 B2
6 E5
8 F1
1 A2
3 A4
4 E3
5 B1
3 C1
6 F4
6 E5
6 E1
6 E3
5 B1
6 D1
6 F5
6 E1
6 E3
8 F2
3 B1
4 E3
8 D3
4 E3
3 A5
1 C3
4 D3
7 A4
6 F2
7 A4
6 D4
6 D4
1 C3
5 A1
135
General Massano
de Amorim, Rua
General Roadas, Avenida
Gervsio Lobato, Rua
Giestal, Rua do
Giestal, Travessa do
Gil Eanes, Rua
Gil Vicente, Rua
Gilberto Rola, Rua
Giovanni Antinori, Rua
Glria, Calada da
Glria, Rua da
Glria, Travessa da
Goa, Praa de
Gomes Freire, Rua
Gonalo Nunes, Rua
Gonalo Sintra, Rua
Gonalo Velho Cabral,
Rua
Gonalves Crespo, Rua
Gonalves Zarco, Rua
Gorgel do Amaral, Rua
Graa, Calada da
Graa, Largo da
Graa, Rua da
Gravato, Rua do
Gregrio Lopes, Rua
Guarda, Travessa da
Guarda-Jias, Rua do
Guarda-Jias, Travessa do
Guarda-Mor, Rua do
Guerra Junqueiro, Avenida
Guilherme Braga, Rua
Guilherme Coussul,
Travessa de
Guilherme dos Anjos, Rua
Guin, Rua da
Gustavo de Matos
Sequeira, Rua
1 C3
6 F5
3 B2
2 E4
2 E3
1 A3
2 F3
3 B4
2 E2
7 A3
4 F1
7 A2
7 A2
1 A3
6 D4
1 B2
1 B2
1 B3
6 D4
1 C3
5 A5
8 D2
8 D2
8 D1
1 A1
1 B2
2 F4
2 D2
2 D3
4 D3
6 E2
8 E3
7 A4
3 B1
6 E4
4 E1
H
Heliodoro Salgado, Rua
Hellen Keller, Avenida
Henrique Alves, Rua
Henrique Cardoso, Travessa
Heris de Quionga, Rua
Horta, Travessa da
Horta e Silva, Rua
Horta Navia, Travessa da
Horta Seca, Rua da
6 F5
1 C2
5 A3
6 D1
6 E3
4 F2
1 B1
3 B3
7 A4
I
Igreja do Carmo
Igreja da Memria
Igreja de Santo Antnio S
Igreja de So Roque
Igreja de So Vicente
de Fora
Ilha do Faial, Praa da
Ilha da Madeira, Avenida da
Ilha do Prncipe, Rua da
Ilha de So Tom,
Rua da
Ilha Terceira, Rua
Imprio, Praa do
Imprensa, Rua da
( Estrela)
Imprensa Nacional,
Rua da
ndia, Avenida da
Indstria, Rua da
Infantaria Dezasseis, Rua de
Infante Dom Henrique,
Avenida
Infante Dom Pedro,
Rua
Infante Santo, Avenida
Inglesinhos, Travessa
dos
7 B3
1 C3
7 C4
7 A3
8 E3
6 D3
1 B2
6 E4
6 E4
6 D3
1 C4
4 E2
4 E1
1 A5
2 F3
3 A4
3 C1
8 D5
5 C1
3 C3
4 F2
136
Instituto Bacteriolgico,
Rua do
Instituto Industrial,
Rua do
Intendente, Largo do
Ivens, Rua
6 D4
6 F3
4 D4
3 C2
1 C4
4 F1
Londres, Praa de
Loreto, Rua do
Luciano Cordeiro, Rua
Luclia Simes, Rua
Lucinda do Carmo,
Rua
Lus Bvar, Avenida
Lus de Cames, Praa
Lus de Cames, Rua
Lus Derouet, Rua
Lus Monteiro, Rua
Lus Pedroso de Barros,
Rua
Lusa Tod, Rua
Lusadas, Rua dos
1 C2
1 C3
1 A4
4 D2
8 E4
4 F2
2 F3
1 C4
6 E1
7 B1
4 E3
7 C1
7 B4
J
Jacinta Marto, Rua
Jacinto Nunes, Rua
Janelas Verdes, Rua das
Jardim, Travessa do
Jardim Agrcola Tropical
Jardim Botnico
Jardim Botnico
da Ajuda
Jardim Botnico,
Rua do
Jardim Ducla Soares
Jardim da Estrela
Jardim do Tabaco, Rua
Jasmim, Rua do
Jau, Rua
Jernimos, Rua dos
Joo XXI, Avenida
Joo Afonso de Aveiro,
Rua
Joo de Barros, Rua
Joo Bastos, Rua
Joo de Castilho, Rua
Joo Coimbra, Rua
Joo Crisstomo,
Avenida
Joo Dias, Rua
Joo Fernandes Labrador,
Rua
Joo de Menezes, Rua
Joo do Outeiro, Rua
Joo de Paiva, Rua
Joo Penha, Rua
Joo das Regras, Rua
Joo do Rio, Praa
Joo Villaret, Rua
Joaquim Antnio
de Aguiar, Rua
Joaquim Bonifcio, Rua
Joaquim Casimiro, Rua
Jorge Afonso, Rua
Jos Acrcio das Neves,
Rua
Jos Dias Coelho, Rua
Jos Estvo, Rua
Jos Falco, Rua
Jos Fernandes,
Travessa
Jos Malha, Avenida
Jos Pinto Bastos, Rua
Jos Ricardo, Rua
Josefa Maria, Rua
Josefa de bidos, Rua
Julieta Ferro, Rua
Jlio de Andrade, Rua
Jlio Dinis, Avenida
Junqueira, Rua da
1 A4
2 F3
1 B4
1 C3
1 A3
5 B3
1 B2
1 B3
6 F2
7 C2
1 B3
5 B5
7 B3
6 E2
6 D1
5 B5
6 D4
3 C3
5 A1
6 F2
3 A4
6 E4
6 E3
2 E2
5 A2
1 B1
6 E3
8 D1
8 E1
5 B1
7 A1
5 C1
2 D4
L
Lagares, Rua dos
Lagares, Travessa dos
Lapa, Beco da
Lapa, Rua da
Latino Coelho, Rua
Laura Alves, Rua
Leo de Oliveira, Rua
Leite de Vasconcelos,
Rua
Liberdade, Avenida da
Limoeiro, Rua do
Livramento, Calada do
Lios, Largo dos
8 D2
8 D2
8 E3
4 D3
5 C3
5 C1
3 A4
8 F2
4 F1
5 C5
7 A2
8 D4
3 B3
8 D4
Macau, Rua de
Machadinho, Rua do
Machado, Rua do
( Ajuda)
Machado de Castro,
Rua
Madalena, Rua da
Madres, Rua das
Madrid, Avenida de
Me dgua, Rua
Maestro Antnio Taborda,
Rua
Malaca, Praa de
Manuel Bento de Sousa,
Rua
Manuel Bernardes, Rua
Manuel da Maia,
Avenida
Manuel Gouveia, Rua
Manuel Soares Guedes,
Rua
Manuelzinho dArcolena,
Rua
Marconi, Avenida
Marcos, Estrada dos
Marcos, Largo dos
Marcos, Rua dos
Marechal Saldanha, Rua
Margiochis, Rua dos
Maria, Rua
Maria Andrade, Rua
Maria da Fonte, Rua
Maria Lusa Holstein,
Rua
Maria Pia, Rua
Marqus de Abrantes,
Calada
Marqus de Fronteira,
Rua
Marqus de Pombal,
Praa
Marqus de Ponte de
Lima, Rua
Marqus de S da
Bandeira, Rua
Marques da Silva, Rua
Marqus de Subserra,
Rua
Marqus de Tancos,
Calada do
Marqus de Tomar,
Avenida
Martim Moniz, Rua
Martim Vaz, Rua de
Martins Barata, Rua
Martins Ferro, Rua
Martins Sarmento, Rua
Mastros, Rua dos
Mato Grosso, Rua
Meio, Rua do ( Lapa)
Mem Rodrigues, Rua
Memria, Calada da
Memria, Travessa da
Mercado 24 de Julho
6 E2
4 F3
5 C4
6 E3
6 E2
5 C3
7 A4
2 F3
3 C1
6 F3
1 B3
2 F3
2 F3
3 A4
4 F2
6 E5
4 E3
2 E3
8 F1
7 C4
4 E3
6 E1
4 F1
3 C3
1 B4
7 B1
4 E2
6 E2
6 F1
7 C1
1 A1
6 D1
1 C1
1 C2
1 C2
4 F3
1 A1
6 E5
6 E5
6 E5
3 A4
3 B1
4 E3
5 A4
5 C5
Merceeiras, Travessa
das
Mercs, Rua das
Mercs, Travessa das
Mestre Antnio Martins,
Rua
Mexico, Avenida do
Miguel Bombarda,
Avenida
Miguel Lupi, Rua
Milagre de Santo Antnio,
Rua do
Miradouro de So Pedro
de Alcntara
Mirador, Rua do
Miradouro da Graa
Miradouro de
Santa Luzia
Mirante, Beco do
Mirante, Calada do
( Ajuda)
Misericrdia, Rua da
Moambique, Rua de
Moeda, Rua da
Moinho de Vento,
Calada
Moinho de Vento,
Travessa do
Moinho Velho,
Travessa do
Moinhos, Travessa dos
Monte, Beco do
Monte, Calada do
Monte, Travessa do
Monte Olivete, Rua do
Morais Soares, Rua
Mosteiro dos Jernimos
Mouraria, Rua da
Mouros, Rua dos
Mouzinho da Silveira,
Rua
Mouzinho de Albuquerque,
Avenida
Municpio, Praa do
Museu de Arte Popular
Museu de Artes
Decorativas
Museu Calouste
Gulbenkian
Museu do Chiado
Museu da Marinha
Museu da Marioneta
Museu Militar
Museu Nacional de
Arqueologia
Museu Nacional de
Arte Antiga
Museu Nacional
dos Coches
Museu de Artilharia,
Rua do
8 D4
2 D3
4 F2
6 F4
6 D2
5 C2
4 E2
7 C4
7 A2
2 E3
8 D2
8 D4
8 F2
2 D2
7 A4
6 E4
4 F3
7 A1
3 C3
2 E3
2 E3
7 C1
7 D1
8 D1
4 E1
6 F3
1 C4
7 C2
4 F2
5 B5
6 F4
7 B5
1 B5
8 D3
5 B2
7 A5
1 B4
8 D3
8 F3
1 B4
4 D4
2 D4
8 F3
7 C2
5 B3
6 E4
5 A5
7 C3
5 C2
7 C2
7 B2
1 B4
5 C4
6 F4
4 E3
8 F1
4 D3
1 B2
1 C3
1 C3
4 F3
N
Navegantes, Rua dos
Nazar, Travessa de
Necessidades,
Calada das
Necessidades, Rua das
Newton, Rua
Noronha, Rua do
Norte, Rua do
Nossa Senhora da
Conceio Velha
Nova do Almada, Rua
Nova do Calhariz, Rua
Nova do Carvalho,
Rua
Nova do Colgio,
Calada
Nova do Desterro, Rua
Nova do Loureiro, Rua
Nova da Piedade, Rua
4 D2
7 C1
3 C3
3 B3
6 E4
4 E1
7 A4
7 C4
7 B4
2 D3
7 A5
7 B2
7 C1
4 F2
4 E2
Nova de Santos,
Travessa
Nova de So Domingos,
Travessa
Nova de So Mamede,
Rua
Nova da Trindade, Rua
Nuno Tristo, Rua
4 D3
7 B3
4 E1
7 A3
1 A4
O
Ocidental, Largo
Olaias, Rotunda das
Olarias, Largo das
Olarias, Rua das
Olival, Rua do
Olival, Travessa do
( Graa)
Oliveira, Rua da
Oliveira Martins, Rua
Oliveirinha, Rua
scar Monteiro Torres,
Avenida
1 B1
6 F2
7 C2
7 C1
3 C4
8 F1
7 A3
6 D1
8 D3
6 D1
P
Pao da Rainha, Largo
Padre Antnio Vieira, Rua
Padre Francisco Rua
Padre Lus Aparcio, Rua
Padre Manuel Alves
Correia, Rua
Padre Manuel da
Nbrega, Avenida
Padro dos
Descobrimentos
Paiva de Andrade, Rua
Paiva Couceiro, Praa
Palcio de Belm
Palcio Nacional da
Ajuda
Palcio de So Bento
Palma, Rua da
Palma, Travessa da
Palmeira, Rua da
Palmeira, Travessa da
Palmira, Rua
Pampulha, Calada da
Paraso, Rua do
Pardal, Travessa do
Paris, Avenida de
Parque Eduardo VII
Parque Florestal de
Monsanto
Particular, 2a Rua
Pscoa, Rua da
Pascoal de Melo, Rua
Passadio, Rua do
Passos Manuel, Rua
Pasteur, Praa
Patrocnio, Rua do
Pau da Bandeira, Rua do
Paulo da Gama, Rua
Paulo Martins, Travessa
Paz, Rua da
Paz do Laranjal, Rua da
Pedras Negras, Rua das
Pedreiras, Rua das
Pedro Alexandrino, Rua
Pedro lvares Cabral,
Avenida
Pedro Augusto Franco,
Rua
Pedro de Barcelos, Rua
Pedro Calmon, Rua
Pedro Escobar, Rua
Pedro Fernandes
Queirs, Rua
Pedro Nunes, Rua
Pedro de Sintra, Rua
6 D5
5 A4
3 C2
6 D5
2 E2
6 E1
1 C5
7 A4
6 F4
1 C4
2 D2
4 E2
7 B2
7 B2
4 F2
4 E2
6 E5
3 C4
8 F2
2 E2
6 E2
5 B4
1 B1
3 A4
4 D1
6 D3
5 C5
7 A1
6 E4
6 E2
3 C2
3 C3
1 A3
1 C3
4 E2
1 C3
7 C4
1 C3
8 F1
4 D1
1 B1
1 B3
2 F3
1 A4
1 A3
5 C3
1 B2
Pedro Teixeira,
Estrada de
Pedrouos, Rua de
Pena, Travessa da
Penha de Frana, Rua da
Pereira, Travessa da
Pereira e Sousa, Rua
Pero da Covilh, Rua
Pero de Alenquer, Rua
Picoas, Rua das
Pinheiro, Travessa do
Pinheiro Chagas, Rua
Pinto, Travessa do
Pinto Ferreira, Rua
Pinto Quartin, Rua
Planetrio Calouste
Gulbenkian
Poo da Cidade,
Travessa do
Poo dos Mouros,
Calada dos
Poo dos Negros, Rua do
Poiais de So Bento,
Rua dos
Ponte 25 de Abril
Ponte, Avenida da
Ponta Delgada, Rua
Portas de Santo Anto,
Rua das
Portas do Sol, Largo
Portugal Duro, Rua
Possidnio da Silva, Rua
Possolo, Rua do
Possolo, Travessa do
Praas, Rua das
Praia, Escadinhas da
Praia, Travessa da
Praia de Pedrouos,
Rua da
Praia da Vitrouos,
Rua da
Prata, Rua da
Prazeres, Estrada dos
Prazeres, Rua dos
Presidente Arriaga, Rua
Pretas, Rua das
Prncipe Real, Praa do
Prior, Rua do
Prior do Crato, Rua
Professor Armando de
Lucena, Rua
Professor Cid dos Santos, Rua
Professor Gomes
Teixeira, Rua
Professor Lima Basto,
Rua
Professor Sousa da
Cmara, Rua
1 C1
1 A5
7 B2
6 E4
8 E2
3 C1
1 B3
1 A3
5 C3
4 D2
5 C3
2 F4
2 E4
2 D2
1 B4
7 A3
6 F3
4 E3
4 E3
3 A5
3 A4
6 D3
7 A2
8 D3
5 A1
3 B2
3 C2
3 C2
4 D3
4 E3
2 F4
1 A5
1 A5
7 B4
3 B2
4 E2
3 C4
7 A1
4 F1
3 C3
3 B4
2 D2
2 D1
3 C2
5 A2
5 A5
Q
Quartis, Rua dos
Quatro de Infantaria, Rua
Queimada, Travessa da
Quelhas, Rua do
Queluz, Estrada de
Quinta do Almargem,
Rua da
Quinta do Jacinto,
Rua da
Quintinha, Rua da
Quirino da Fonseca,
Rua
2 D3
3 C1
7 A3
4 D3
1 C1
2 E3
3 A3
4 E2
6 E3
R
Rafael de Andrade, Rua
Ramalho Ortigo, Rua
Rato, Largo do
Rebelo da Silva, Rua
Regueira, Rua da
Regueiro dos Anjos, Rua
6 E5
5 A3
4 E1
6 D3
8 E4
6 E5
8 E3
4 D3
7 A5
5 C1
5 A3
1 A4
7 A2
7 B5
4 F3
4 D3
3 C3
3 C3
2 E3
5 A4
1 A2
3 A4
5 C5
6 D1
5 C5
6 E3
4 F2
7 B3
6 F2
6 D3
2 E2
8 F1
1 B3
S
S de Miranda, Rua
Sabino de Sousa, Rua
Sacadura Cabral, Avenida
Saco, Rua do
Sacramento, Calada do
Sacramento, Rua do
( Lapa)
Sacramento, Rua do
(a Alcntara)
Sacramento, Travessa do
(a Alcntara)
Salitre, Rua do
Salitre, Travessa do
Salvador, Rua do
Sampaio Bruno, Rua
Sampaio e Pina, Rua
Santa Brbara, Rua de
Santa Catarina, Rua de
Santa Catarina,
Travessa de
Santa Cruz do Castelo,
Rua
Santa Engrcia
Santa Justa, Rua de
Santa Marinha, Rua de
Santa Marta, Rua de
Santa Marta,
Travessa de
Santa Quitria,
Travessa de
Santana, Calada
Santana, Rua de
( Lapa)
Santo Amaro, Calada de
Santo Amaro, Rua de
Santo Andr, Calada de
Santo Antnio, Rua de
( Estrela)
Santo Antnio,
Travessa de ( Graa)
Santo Antnio da Glria,
Rua
Santo Antnio da S,
Rua de
Santo Estvo, Rua de
Santos, Largo de
Santos Dumont, Avenida
Santos-o-Velho, Rua de
2 F3
6 F3
6 D1
7 B1
7 B4
3 C3
3 B4
3 B4
4 F1
4 F1
8 D3
3 B1
5 A4
6 E5
4 F3
4 F3
8 D3
8 F2
7 B3
8 D3
5 C5
5 C5
4 D1
7 B2
3 C2
2 F3
4 E2
8 D2
3 C2
8 E1
4 F1
7 C4
8 E3
4 E3
5 A2
4 D3
So Bento, Rua de
So Bernardino,
Travessa
So Bernardo, Rua de
So Boaventura, Rua de
So Caetano, Rua de
So Ciro, Rua de
So Domingos, Largo de
So Domingos, Rua de
So Flix, Rua de
So Filipe Neri, Rua de
So Francisco Xavier,
Rua
So Francisco,
Calada de
So Gens, Rua de
So Joo de Deus,
Avenida
So Joo da Mata,
Rua de
So Joo da Praa,
Rua de
So Jorge, Rua de
So Jos, Rua de
So Julio, Rua de
So Lzaro, Rua de
So Mamede, Rua de
So Maral, Rua de
So Martinho, Largo de
So Miguel, Rua de
So Nicolau, Rua de
So Paulo, Rua de
So Pedro, Rua de
So Pedro de Alcntara,
Rua de
So Pedro Mrtir, Rua
So Plcido, Travessa de
So Sebastio da Pedreira,
Rua de
So Tiago, Rua de
So Tom, Rua de
So Vicente, Calada de
So Vicente, Rua de
So Vicente, Travessa de
Sapadores, Rua dos
Sapateiros, Rua dos
Saraiva de Carvalho, Rua
Sarmento de Beires, Rua
Saudade, Rua da
S
Sebastio Saraiva Lima,
Rua
Sebeiro, Travessa do
Sculo, Rua do
Senhora da Glria, Rua
Senhora da Graa,
Travessa da
Senhora da Sade,
Rua da
Senhora do Monte,
Rua da
Serpa Pinto, Rua
Sidnio Pais, Avenida
Silva Carvalho, Rua
Silva Porto, Rua
Silva, Rua da
Stio ao Casalinho
da Ajuda, Rua do
Soares de Passos, Rua
Sociedade Farmacutica,
Rua da
Soeiro Pereira Gomes,
Rua
Sol, Rua do (a Chelas)
Sol, Rua do ( Graa)
Sol, Rua do (ao Rato)
Sol, Rua do (a Santana)
Solar do Vinho do Porto
Sousa Lopes, Rua
Sousa Martins, Rua
4 E1
6 D5
4 D2
4 F2
3 C3
4 D2
7 B3
4 D3
4 D3
5 B5
1 A4
7 B5
8 D1
6 E1
4 D3
8 D4
4 D2
7 A1
7 B4
7 B1
7 C4
4 E2
8 D4
8 E4
7 B4
4 F3
7 A5
8 E4
7 A3
7 C3
4 E2
5 C4
8 D4
8 D3
8 E3
8 E3
8 D2
6 F5
7 B4
3 C2
6 F1
8 D4
8 D4
6 F3
3 A3
4 F2
8 E1
8 E1
7 C2
8 D1
7 A4
5 B4
4 D1
5 A5
2 E3
4 E3
2 D2
2 F3
137
T
Taipas, Rua das
Tapada da Ajuda
Tapada das Necessidades
Tapada, Calada da
Teatro de So Carlos
Teixeira Jnior, Travessa de
Teixeira Pinto, Rua
Telhal, Rua do
Tenente Espanca, Rua
Tenente Ferreira Duro,
Rua
Tenente Valadim, Rua
Terra, Calada
Terreirinho, Rua do
Terreirinho, Travessa do
Terreiro do Trigo,
Rua do
Tesouro, Travessa do
Tijolo, Calada de
Tijolo, Caladinha de
Timor, Rua de
Toms da Anunciao, Rua
Toms Ribeiro, Rua
Torel, Travessa do
Torre de Belm
Torre de Belm,
Avenida da
Torre, Largo da
Torre, Rua da
Torrinha, Azinhaga da
Touros, Praa de
Trabuqueta, Travessa da
Tringulo Vermelho,
Rua
Trinas, Rua das
Trindade, Largo da
Trindade, Rua da
Tristo da Cunha, Rua
Tristo Vaz, Rua
4 F1
3 A1
3 B3
2 F3
3 A3
7 A4
3 A4
6 F4
7 A1
5 B2
3 C1
3 B4
6 F2
7 C2
8 D2
8 E4
3 B3
4 F2
8 E3
6 E5
3 C1
5 C3
7 B1
1 A5
1 A4
2 D2
2 D2
5 B1
5 C1
3 B4
6 F5
4 D3
7 A3
7 A3
1 A4
1 C2
V
Vaga-Lumes, Rua dos
Vale de Santo Antnio,
Rua do
Vale do Pereiro, Rua do
Vale, Rua do
Veloso Salgado, Rua
Vernica, Rua da
Vicente Borga, Rua
Vicente Dias, Rua
Vieira da Silva, Rua
Vigrio, Rua do
Vila Berta
Vila Correia
Vinha, Rua da
Viriato, Rua
Visconde de Santarm,
Rua
Visconde de Seabra,
Rua
Visconde de Valmor,
Avenida
Vtor Cordon, Rua
Vtor Hugo, Rua
Vitria, Rua da
Voz do Operrio, Rua da
1 B1
8 F1
4 E1
4 E2
5 A1
8 E2
4 E3
1 A2
3 B4
8 E3
8 E2
1 B4
4 F2
5 C4
6 D3
5 C1
5 C2
7 A5
6 E1
7 B4
8 E2
5 C5
Washington, Rua
5 A1
6 F3
8 E1
4 D1
7 B1
4 F2
5 B1
5 C4
X
Xavier Cordeiro, Rua
8 F1
6 D2
Z
Zagalo, Travessa do
Zaire, Rua do
8 F3
6 E4
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CENTRAL
PORTUGAL
Introducing Central
Portugal
148153
154175
200227
148
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Praia
de Mira
Figueira
da Foz
Montemor-oVelho
Conmbriga
Pombal
Leiria
So Pedro
de Muel
Batalha
Nazar
Caldas da
Rainha
Peniche
Ftima
Alcobaa
Torres
Novas
So Martinho
do Porto
ESTREMADURA
AND THE RIBATEJO
bidos
(see pp176199)
Alpiara
Lourinh
Ericeira
Santarm
Almeirim
Torres
Vedras
Alenquer
Mafra
Alverca
Colares
Vila Franca
de Xira
Coruche
Sintra
Lisbon
Alcochete
Palmela
Setbal
Tria
Sesimbra
Alccer
do Sal
0 kilometres
0 miles
50
50
Arouca
Pinhel
Trancoso
Almeida
Celorico da
Beira
Viseu
Caramulo
Vilar
Formoso
Tondela
Guarda
Gouveia
Sabugueiro
Av
Coimbra
Arganil
149
Sernancelhe
Castro
Daire
gueda
Manteigas
Sabugal
Covilh
Penamacor
THE BEIRAS
Fundo
(see pp200227)
Monsanto
Idanha-a
-Velha
Penela
Castelo
Branco
Tomar
Abrantes
150
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Ribatejan herdsmen or
campinos, who round up
the fighting bulls, here
demonstrate their skills.
The Cavaleiro
The bullfighter or cavaleiro wears
traditional 18th-century costume,
including the satin coat of a
grandee, and rides an elaborately
adorned horse. He has to plant
a number of darts (farpas) in
the bulls shoulders, and his
performance is judged on
style and courage.
The costly saddle cloth
is embroidered with
Joo Mouras initials.
151
The Bullfight
The corrida or tourada combines drama and daring.
First, a team of bullfighters on foot (pees de brega)
distracts the bull with capes, preparing it for the
cavaleiro. He is followed by eight volunteer forcados,
who aim to overcome the bull with their bare hands
in what is known as the pega. Finally the bull is
herded from the ring among a group of farm oxen.
At this opening ceremony in Montijo,
the two cavaleiros line up with the
forcados on either side.
The cavaleiro lodges long
darts in the bulls shoulders.
The Marqus de
Marialva teaches
his mount to turn
in tight circles round
a pole.
152
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Lisbon
The capital is not just the place
where all the flavours of Portugal
come together, but also where
the influences of Portugals
16th-century overseas
expansion get their strongest
expression. This applies equally
to older influences, long since
assimilated into the local cuisine,
and to newer phenomena, from
Cape Verdean restaurants to
sushi bars. One old favourite,
Sardines
Serra da Estrela
Queijo fresco
Alavo
Palhais
Feijoada is a paprika-spiced
stew of beans, vegetables and
cured meat (usually pork), with
many local variations.
Estremadura and
Ribatejo
Further south, in Estremadura,
the fishing ports of Nazar and
Peniche boast a smaller catch
than they once did, but the
local sardines in particular are
well worth sampling. The
rolling hills of Estremadura
give way, as you cross the Tejo
153
REGIONAL WINES
The Do wine region now
produces some of Portugals finest
red wines, often distinguishable
from the wines of the Douro to
the north by their greater
elegance. The Bairrada region
borders Do but has only one
authorized grape variety for
making reds: Baga. There are some
great examples of traditional style,
with deep tannins and hints of
pine and bonfire, but modernity
features too, with fruitier, more
approachable reds and fresh, light
whites. Estremadura and Ribatejo
once produced vast amounts of
fairly unpalatable wine for mass
consumption or distillation. Now
they shine, with wines often
made from foreign grape varieties.
Of Lisbons own appellations
Colares, Carcavelos and Bucelas
only the last remains commercially
viable, making some of the
countrys most distinctive whites.
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
155
156
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Sights at a Glance
Praia das
Mas
1 Palcio de Mafra
2 Ericeira
Pero Pinheiro
Loures
5 Monserrate
SINTRA
7 Cascais
Malveira da Serra
8 Estoril
Guincho
Odivelas
Belas
Cabo da
A
Roca S E R R A D E S I N T R
6 Sintra pp1627
Caneas
MONSERRATE
COLARES
3 Colares
Lousa
PALCIO DE
QUELUZ
Alcabideche
LISBON
0 Alcochete
ESTORIL
Boca do Inferno
q Costa da Caparica
Almada
Oeiras
CASCAIS
w Cabo Espichel
Caxias
Carcavelos
Trafaria
e Sesimbra
Arieiro
r Palmela
COSTA DA CAPARICA
t Serra da Arrbida
y Setbal
u Pennsula de Tria
i Alccer do Sal
0 kilometres
Tours
0 miles
10
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
4 Serra de Sintra
Lagoa de
Albufeira
Alfarim
Nossa Senhora
do Cabo
Key
CABO ESPICHEL
Motorway
Secondary road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Getting Around
Motorways give quick access from
Lisbon to Sintra, Estoril, Palmela and
Setbal. Main roads are generally
well-signposted and surfaced, though
traffic congestion can be a problem,
particularly at weekends and holidays.
Watch out for potholes on smaller
roads. Fast, frequent trains run from
Lisbon: from Cais do Sodr station to
Estoril and Cascais, from Roma Areeiro
and Entrecampos stations to Queluz
and Sintra and from Rossio station to
Queluz and Sintra. Trains south to
Setbal, Alccer do Sal and beyond
leave from Roma Areeiro, crossing the
April 25 bridge. There are good bus
services to all parts of the region,
most of which leave from Sete Rios.
Alverca do
Ribatejo
Pvoa de
Santa Iria
Te j
So Joo da Talha
Reser va
N a tura l do
E s t u r i o d o Te j o
Sacavm
Canha
Rib
e
ira
de
Rio
ALCOCHETE
Canh
a
Samouco
Montijo
Atalaia
Peges Velhos
Rio Frio
Barreiro
vora
Moita
Seixal
Poceiro
Pinhal Novo
Santo Antnio
da Charneca
SETBAL
Coina
guas
de Moura
PALMELA
Marateca
Marco do Grilo
ID
SETBAL
Re s e r va
N a t ura l d o
Esturio do Sado
Tria
Figueirinha
SESIMBRA
Portinho
da Arrbida
Ri
PENNSULA
DE TRIA
Pinheiro
Sad
Palma
Pinheiros
Estao
Baa de
Setbal
ar
M
ho
tin
de
S
Santana
RA
DA
R
AR
SE
Vila Nogueira
de Azeito
Ri
be
ira
Vila Fresca de
Azeito
Montalvo
Comporta
ALCCER DO SAL
Grndola
157
158
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Ericeira
Colares
159
160
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
This round trip from Sintra follows a dramatic route over the
top of the wooded Serra. The first part is a challenging drive
with hazardous hairpin bends on steep, narrow roads that
are at times poorly surfaced. It passes through dense forest
and a surreal landscape of giant moss-covered boulders,
with breathtaking views over the Atlantic coast, the Tagus
estuary and beyond. After dropping down to the rugged,
windswept coast, the route returns along small country
roads passing through hill villages and large estates on the
cool, green northern slopes of the Serra de Sintra.
0 kilometres
0 miles
Praia
Grande
Praia
das Mas
Janas
Rib
ei
ra
de
Co
lar
e
s
Praia da
Adraga
Almoageme
Penedo
J
Casas Novas
rr
Sin
tra
Se
de
P da Serra
Azia
Cascais
4 Peninha
5 Cabo da Roca
Key
Tour route
Other roads
Viewpoint
161
8 Seteais
Palace of Monserrate
2 Sintra
From the centre of the old
town the road winds steeply
upwards past magnificent
quintas (country estates)
hidden among the trees.
7 Monserrate
Ericeira
Mafra
Castelo dos
Mouros
J
C ruz Al ta
Se
rra
de
Si
nt
ra
Palcio
da Pena
Lisbon
Estoril
Cascais
1 Parque da Pena
This huge, exotic park can be
explored on foot (see p163). Along
with the palace, it is one of the
best examples of 19th-century
romanticism in Portugal.
Monserrate
162
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Sintra
Exploring Sintra
Present-day Sintra is in three
parts, Sintra Vila, Estefnia
and So Pedro, joined by a
confusing maze of winding
roads scattered over the
surrounding hills. In the pretty
cobbled streets of the old town,
Sintra Vila, which is centred on
the Palcio Nacional de
Sintra, are the museums and
beautifully tiled post office.
The curving Volta do Duche
leads from the old town, past
the lush Parque da Liberdade,
north to the Estefnia district
and the striking Neo-Gothic
Cmara Municipal (Town Hall).
To the south and east, the hilly
village of So Pedro spreads
over the slopes of the Serra.
The fortnightly Sunday market
here extends across the broad
market square.
SINTRA
163
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map: B5. * 25,000.
n Praa da Repblica 23 (219
231 157); train station (211 932
545). ( 2nd & 4th Sun of month.
_ JunJul: Festival de Sintra.
Transport
@ Avda Dr Miguel
Bombarda.
Y Parque da Pena
COLARES
Battlements of the Castelo dos Mouros perched on the slopes of the Serra
ERICEIRA
Centro Cultural
O. Cadaval
ANA
RUA CMA R A PEST
EI
FR
D O
C.
TOS
LO
A
RD
CL
CA
L A
Santa Maria
DA
Palcio da Pena
Palcio da Pena
A DA D A
PE
NA
200
AL
DR
Parque da
Pena
PE
RUA D A TRINDADE
250
S.
SO PEDRO
DE
0 yards
SAN
SO
RUA
DE
AT
DO
RR
A RE
TRAV. D O S ALV
OS
Castelo
dos Mouros
0 metres
DOS
SE
AD
Miradouro
da Vigia
ON
DA
RUA FRANCI S C O
CAS
TE
LO
Miradouro
das Murtas
IG
ES
A
EID
BA
CA
TR
ADA
DA
C ON
HA
AL
RUA
Fonte
da Sabuga
Parque da
Liberdade
D OE IX A L
R U AD E S
E
ND
CO C
AM
IN
HO
VIS
L SA
L D AN
ECHA
D'
CH
E
Fonte
Mourisca
RUA
RUA AND R
DE A
LB U Q
U ER Q
UE
RUA
A
RE
UG
DU
S
DA
R U A R TA S
MU
Museu do
Brinquedo
DO
LM
Train
Station
Quinta da
Regaleira
RUA M
AR
HE
BA
PEN
D O DU C
MONSERRATE
V
PRAA DA O LT
A
REPUBLICA
C
RIOALA
DO D A D
P OR O
TO
RE
IO
A
S T LARGO
O D. MANUEL I
LT
SINTRA
VILA PE DRO S O
Casa de
Sapa
LF
VO
Palcio
Nacional
de Sintra
Post
Ofce
AV. D
R. BO
M
PA
O
E IR
RUA D
O
A
RU
EL
Bus Station
SC O
Cmara
Municipal
R IB
DA
UA
pp1645
5 Post office
6 Museu do Brinquedo
7 Fonte Mourisca
8 Quinta da Regaleira
9 Fonte da Sabuga
0 Santa Maria
q Castelo dos Mouros
w Parque da Pena
.H
AV
AD
NC I
LG
RA
D. F
3 Casa de Sapa
SA
R UA
2 Cmara Municipal
O
OR
JOO
ESTEFNIA
M
D AE D A
GU DO
ER S
RA CO
1 Casino de Sintra
Casino de
Sintra
LISBON
CASCAIS
So Pedro
164
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Chapel
Symmetrical Moorish
patterns decorate the
original 15th-century
chestnut and oak ceiling
and the mosaic floor of
the private chapel.
SINTRA
165
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Largo Rainha Dona Amlia.
Tel 219 106 840. pnsintra.
imc-ip.pt Open 9:30am6pm
daily (23 Mar25 Oct: to 7pm).
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. 8 &
(free 9:30am1pm Sun).
Chapel
Entrance
10th century
1281 King Dinis orders
First reference
to the palace,
as residence of
Moorish governor
800
restoration of palace;
work is carried out by
Moors living in Colares
1000
14951521 Reign of
Manuel I; major
restoration and
Manueline additions
1200
complete rebuilding
of central buildings
and kitchens
1400
1683 Afonso VI
dies after being
imprisoned here
for nine years by
brother Pedro II
1600
1755 Parts of
(grandmother of Manuel
II) is last royal resident
1910 Palace becomes a
national monument
166
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
. Hall
The spacious hall is sumptuously
furnished with German stained-glass
windows, precious Oriental porcelain
and four lifesize turbaned torchbearers holding giant candelabra.
KEY
1 In the kitchen, the copper pots
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Entrance Arch
A studded archway with
crenellated turrets greets
the visitor at the entrance
to the palace. The palace
buildings are painted the
original daffodil yellow and
strawberry pink.
SINTRA
. Arab Room
Marvellous trompeloeil frescoes cover
the walls and ceiling
of the Arab Room,
one of the loveliest
in the palace. The
Orient was a great
inspiration to
Romanticism.
167
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Estrada da Pena, 5 km (3 mile)
S of Sintra. Tel 219 237 300.
parquesdesintra.pt
Open 9:30am7pm daily
(26 Oct22 Mar: 10am6pm
daily). Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
Transport
@ 434 from Avenida Dr Miguel
Bombarda, Sintra.
. Chapel Altarpiece
The impressive 16thcentury alabaster and
marble retable was
sculpted by Nicolau
Chanterne. Each niche
portrays a scene of
the life of Christ,
from the manger to
the Ascension.
Entrance
168
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Cascais
Guimares
Avenida Rei Humberto de Itlia.
Tel 214 815 308. Open 10am5pm
TueSun (excl 12pm Sat & Sun).
& Closed public hols.
Palcio de Queluz
See pp17071.
0
Alcochete
169
Cabo Espichel
170
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Palcio de Queluz
KEY
1 The Robillion Pavilion displays
the flamboyance of the French
architects Rococo style.
To canal
2 Shell Waterfall
3 The Lion Staircase is an
impressive and graceful link from
the lower gardens to the palace.
4 Neptunes Fountain
5 The royal familys living rooms
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Music Room
Operas and concerts were
performed here by Maria Is
orchestra, the best in
Europe according to
English traveller William
Beckford. A portrait of the
queen hangs above the
grand piano.
171
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map B5.
Largo do Palcio. Tel 214 343 860.
Open 9am5:30pm daily (Apr
Oct: to 7pm). Closed 1 Jan,
25 Dec. & (free 9am2pm Sun).
7-0
Transport
Queluz-Belas or QueluzMassama. @ from Lisbon
(Colgio Militar).
. Throne Room
The elegant state room
(1770) was the scene of
splendid balls and
banquets. The gilded
statues of Atlas
are by Silvestre
Faria Lobo.
Entrance
Maria I (17341816)
Maria, the eldest daughter of Jos I,
lived at the palace in Queluz after
her marriage to her uncle, Pedro,
in 1760. Serious and devout, she
conscientiously filled her role as
queen, but suffered increasingly
from bouts of melancholia. When
her son Jos died from smallpox
in 1788, she went hopelessly mad.
Visitors to Queluz were dismayed
by her agonizing shrieks as she
suffered visions and hallucinations. After
the French invasion of 1807, her younger son Joo
(declared regent in 1792) took his mad mother to Brazil.
. Palace Gardens
The formal gardens, adorned with statues,
fountains and topiary, were often used for
entertaining. Concerts performed in the
Music Room would spill out into the
Malta Gardens.
172
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Sesimbra
The castle at Palmela with views over the wooded Serra da Arrbida
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Palmela
173
Serra da Arrbida
R Convento da Arrbida
E Museu Oceanogrfico
Palmela
Vila
Fresca de
Azeito
Lisbon
Vila Nogueira
de Azeito
Setbal
Convento da
Arrbida
Galapos
Figueirinha
Portinho da
Arrbida
Santana
Sesimbra
Set
Baa de
Key
al
0 kilometres
0 miles
Major road
5
3
Minor road
Other road
174
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
e Etnografia
Avenida Lusa Todi 162. Tel 265 239
365. Open 9am12:30pm & 25:30pm
TueSat. Closed public hols.
Setbal
+ Castelo de So Filipe
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
Setbal is an
excellent starting
point for a tour by
car of the unspoilt
Reserva Natural do
Esturio do Sado, a
vast stretch of mud
flats, shallow lagoons
and salt marshes
with patches of pine
175
View over Alccer do Sal and the River Sado from the castle
Alccer do Sal
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
177
ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO
Between the Tagus and the coast lies Estremadura, an area
of rolling hills that tumble down to rugged cliffs and sandy
beaches. In contrast, the Ribatejo is a vast alluvial plain
stretching along the banks of the Tagus. Portugals finest
medieval monasteries bear witness to the illustrious,
if turbulent past of these regions.
The name Estremadura comes from the
Latin Extrema Durii, beyond the Douro,
once the border of the Christian kingdoms
in the north. As Portugal expanded
southwards in the 12th century, land taken
from the Moors (see pp467) was given to
the religious orders. The Cistercian abbey
at Alcobaa celebrates Afonso Henriquess
capture of the town of Santarm in 1147,
and the Knights Templar began their
citadel at Tomar (see p191) soon after.
Spanish claims to the Portuguese
throne brought more fighting: Batalhas
magnificent abbey was built near the
site of Joo Is victory over the Castilians
at Aljubarrota in 1385. More recently,
in 180810, Napoleonic forces sacked
many towns in the region, but were
stopped by Wellingtons formidable
defences, the Lines of Torres Vedras.
178
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Guia
Monte
Redondo
Rio Lis
Vieira
p Coruche
4 Caldas da Rainha
5 Alcobaa pp1845
s Alenquer
6 Nazar
d Torres Vedras
AT
8 Batalha pp1889
9 Leiria
ia
ir
Le
ral
atu ire
e N de A
qu rras iros
r
Pa s Se dee
n
da e Ca
Casais de
Santa Teresa
hal
ALCOBAA
Benedita
Lagoa de
bidos
w Tomar pp19091
PENICHE
PORTO DE MS
Serra do
Bouro
BERLENGA
ISLANDS
q Ftima
BATALHA
NAZAR
So Martinho
do Porto
LA
7 Porto de Ms
0 Pombal
LEIRIA
Pin
o Santarm
3 bidos
de
EA
2 Peniche
IC
i Alpiara
Alcanede
CALDAS DA
RAINHA
Baleal
Cabo Carvoeiro
BIDOS
t Castelo de Almourol
y Torres Novas
Rio Maior
Reguengo
Grande
Cadaval
Campelos
Vilar
Key
Ramalhal
Motorway
TORRES VEDRAS
ra
er
de
on
tej
Minor road
Scenic route
So Pedro
da Cadeira
Main railway
Minor railway
Regional border
Carvoeira
un
to
Cartaxo
Aveiras de
Cima
Meca
Azambuja
ALENQUER
LISBOA
Salvaterra
de Magos
Sobral de
Monte Agrao
VILA FRANCA
DE XIRA
oT
e jo
Maceira
So Joo da
Ribeira
Almoster
Cercal
Vermelha
Bombarral
Lourinh
Benavente
Ri
u Goleg
Secondary road
LEIRIA
Marinha Grande
NT
1 Berlenga Islands
r Abrantes
So Pedro
de Muel
OC
Sights at a Glance
Monte
Real
Porto Alto
Lisboa
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
179
Coimbra
Redinha
Lourial
Castanheira
de Pra
Campelo
ic
Alvorge
POMBAL
Se
do
ra
Avelar
Ansio
Figueir dos
Vinhos
Santiago
de Litm
Vermoil
Almoster
Alvaizere
Rio N
ab o
Albergaria
dos Doze
Boavista
Espite Freixianda
Cardosos
Cabaos
Ba
Caxarias
Be
Ourm
a
Cardigos
Ferreira
do Zzere
Amndoa
FTIMA
TOMAR
Assentiz
Barragem da
Pracana
Santiago de
Montalegre
BARRAGEM DO
CASTELO DE BODE
Mira de Aire
e
Air
de
S e r ra
Castelo
Branco
Mao
Sardoal
Mouriscas
TORRES NOVAS
Alcanena
ix
ra
ABRANTES
Constncia
Entroncamento
CASTELO DE
ALMOUROL
GOLEG
Pernes
Ortiga
Pego
Portalegre
Pinheiro Grande
o
Ri
jo
Te Chamusca
Bemposta
SANTARM
Alcanhes
Vale de Cavalos
Chouto
ALPIARA
SANTARM
Almeirim
i a
r
L e z
Benca
Raposa
Muge
Getting Around
Although trains connect many
of the major towns in the region,
stations are often located outside
the town. There are local bus services
and coach trips from Lisbon to such
destinations as Alcobaa and Tomar.
Driving is the most convenient option.
The A1 (IP1) and A8 (IC1) allow easy
north-south access. Avoid the NI (IC2)
as it is often congested. The A23 (IP6)
runs eastwards from the A1 (IP1).
So Jos
da Lamarosa
Marinhais
Rio Sorraia
Couo
CORUCHE
Ri
b ei
ra d
o
Divor
So Torcato
vora
Setbal
0 kilometres
0 miles
25
15
The Renaissance bridge, Ponte Velha, over the River Nabo in Tomar, with the
Convento de Cristo in the distance
180
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Berlenga Islands
Peniche
Environs
On the peninsulas western
headland, 2 km (1 mile) from
Peniche, Cabo Carvoeiro affords
grand views of the ocean and
the strange-shaped rocks along
the eroded coastline. Here, the
interior of the chapel of Nossa
Senhora dos Remdios is faced
with 18th-century tiles on the
Life of the Virgin attributed to
the workshop of Antnio de
Oliveira Bernardee (see p30).
Along the coast, 2 km (1 mile)
east of Peniche, Baleal is a small
community with gorgeous
beaches and an idyllic fishing
cove across a causeway.
3
bidos
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
181
Caldas da Rainha
Environs
Saltwater Lagoa de bidos,
15 km (9 miles) west, is a popular
lagoon for sailing and fishing.
The colourful courtyard of a house in bidos
184
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Alcobaa
Sacristy Doorway
Exotic foliage and
elaborate pinnacles
adorn the Manueline
doorway, attributed
to Joo de Castilho
(see p108).
KEY
1 The octagonal lavabo
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
. Cloister of
Dom Dinis
Also known as the
Cloister of Silence, the
exquisite cloister was
ordered by King Dinis in
1308. The austere galleries
and double arches are in
keeping with the Cistercian
regard for simplicity.
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
185
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C4. Santa Maria de
Alcobaa, Praa 25 de Abril,
Alcobaa. Tel 262 505 120.
Open 9am7pm (OctMar:
to 5pm) daily (last adm: 30 mins
before closing). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. 5 6:30pm
Sat, 11:30am Sun. & (free
9am2pm Sun).
Transport
@ from Lisbon, Coimbra, Leiria.
Central Nave
The vaulted roof and
soaring columns of the
central nave create an
impression of harmony
and austere simplicity.
Main entrance
186
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Nazar
Porto de Ms
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
South of the town, the
390-square-km (150-squaremile) Parque Natural das Serras
de Aire e Candeeiros covers a
limestone landscape of pastures, olive groves and stone
walls and is a nesting place for
the red-beaked chough.
The area is also dotted with
vast and spectacular underground caverns with odd rock
formations and festoons of
stalactites and stalagmites. The
Grutas de Mira de Aire, 17 km
(10 miles) southeast of Porto de
Ms, are the biggest, descending
110 m (360 ft) into tunnels and
walkways around subterranean
lakes. A tour through caverns
with names such as the Jewel
Room, past bizarre rocks dubbed
Chinese Hat or Jellyfish, ends in
a theatrical light and water show.
} Grutas de Mira de Aire
Batalha
See pp1889.
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
Leiria
187
188
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Batalha
Chapterhouse
Guards keep watch by the Tomb of the
Unknown Soldiers beneath Huguets
striking star-vaulted ceiling.
. Royal Cloister
Gothic arches by Afonso
Domingues and Huguet
around the cloister are
embellished by
Manueline tracery
(see pp289)
to achieve a
harmony of form
and decoration.
KEY
1 Refectory
2 The lavabo, where friars
Main
entrance
Domingues
5 The chapel is topped by an
octagonal lantern.
6 Joo Is motto, Por bem (for
good), is inscribed on his tomb.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Portal
The portal was
decorated by
Huguet with
religious motifs
and statues of
the apostles in
intricate late
Gothic style.
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
. Unfinished
Chapels
Begun under King
Duarte, the octagonal
mausoleum was
abandoned by Manuel
I in favour of the
Jernimos monastery
in Belm (see pp1089).
189
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C4. Mosteiro de Santa
Maria da Vitria, Batalha.
Tel 244 765 497.
Open 9am6pm (OctMar: to
5pm) daily. Closed 1 Jan, Easter,
1 May, 25 Dec. & (free
9am2pm Sun).
Transport
@ from Lisbon, Leiria, Porto de
Ms & Ftima.
Manueline Portal
Most of the decoration of the
Unfinished Chapels dates from
the reign of Manuel I. This
delicate portal was carved in
1509 by Mateus Fernandes.
. Founders Chapel
The tomb of Joo I and his English wife Philippa of
Lancaster, lying hand in hand, was begun in 1426 by
Huguet. Their son, Henry the Navigator, is also buried here.
190
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
children by the
tree. Only Lucia
heard the Secret
of Ftima, spoken
on her last
appearance. The
first part of the
secret was a vision
of hell; the second
was of a war worse
than World War I.
The third part, a
Curved limestone gallery around the vast esplanade in
vision of papal
front of the basilica at Ftima
assassination, was
q Ftima
finally revealed by Pope John
Paul II on the occasion of the
Road map C4. * 9,000. @
Millennium. The Pope beatified
n Avenida Dom Jos Alves Correia
Jacinta and Francisco in 2000.
da Silva (249 531 139). ( Sat.
Their tombs are inside the
rt-leiriafatima.pt
basilica. Lucia, who became a
nun, died in 2005. The stainedThe sanctuary of Ftima is
glass windows show scenes of
a devotional shrine on a
the sightings. In the esplanade,
prodigious scale, a pilgrim
the Capela das Aparies
destination on a par with
Lourdes in France. The Neomarks the site of the apparition.
Baroque limestone basilica,
Inside, the crown of the Virgin
holds the bullet used in the
flanked by statues of saints, has
1981 assassination attempt on
a 65-m (213-ft) tower and an
Pope John Paul II. East of the
esplanade twice the size of
sanctuary, the childrens homes
St Peters Square in Rome.
have been preserved in the
On 12 and 13 of May and
October vast crowds of pilgrims Casa de Lcia. Waxworks and
arrive to commemorate
a multimedia show complete
appearances of the Virgin to
the experience.
three shepherd children (the
For most people, however,
three pastorinhos). On 13 May
the most impressive sight is the
1917, 10-year-old Lucia Santos
intense emotion and faith of the
and her young cousins, Jacinta
penitents who approach the
Marta and Francisco, saw a
shrine on their knees. Wax limbs
shining figure in a holm oak
are burned as offerings for
tree. She ordered them to return miracles performed by the
to the tree on the same day for
Virgin and thousands of
six months and by 13 October
candles light the esplanade
70,000 pilgrims were with the
in the night-time masses.
P Casa de Lcia
Environs
The medieval town of Ourm,
10 km (6 miles) northeast of
Ftima, is a walled citadel,
dominated by the 15th- century
castle of Ourm built by Afonso,
grandson of Nuno lvares
Pereira (see p189). His
magnificent tomb is in the
15th-century Igreja Matriz. The
towns name is said to derive
from Oureana, a Moorish girl
who, before she fell in love
with a Christian knight and
converted, was called Ftima.
Tomar
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
191
Tomars main shopping street, Rua Serpa Pinto, overlooked by the castle
192
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Window
Marine motifs
entwine round
this elaborate
window. The
carving at the
base is thought
to be either the
architect (see p28)
or the Old Man of
the Sea.
. Great Cloister
Begun in the 1550s, probably
by Diogo de Torralva, this
cloister reflects Joo
IIIs passion for
Italian art.
Concealed
spiral
stairways in
the corners
lead to the
Terrace of
Wax.
KEY
1 The Terrace of Wax is where
honeycombs were left to dry.
2 Cloister of the Crows, flanked
by an aqueduct
3 The Bread Cloister was where
loaves were handed out to the poor
who came to beg at the monastery.
4 The Manueline Church by
The Charola
The nucleus of the monastery is the
12th-century Charola, the Templars
oratory. Like many of their temples,
its layout is based on the Rotunda
of Jerusalems Holy Sepulchre, with
a central octagon of altars. In 1356,
Tomar became the headquarters of
the Order of Christ in Portugal, and
the Charolas decoration reflects the
Orders wealth. The paintings and
frescoes (mostly 16th-century biblical scenes) and the gilded statuary
The gilded octagon
below the Byzantine cupola have
undergone much careful restoration.
When the Manueline church was built, an archway was
created in the side of the Charola to link the two, making the
Charola the churchs main chapel.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
TOMAR
193
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
15-minute walk from Tomar
centre. Tel 249 313 481.
conventocristo.pt
Open 9am6:30pm daily (Oct
May: to 5:30pm). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free
9am2pm Sun & hols).
Transport
@ from Lisbon, Coimbra
& Leiria.
. Charola
The original Templar church, sometimes called the
Rotunda, was built in the shape of a 16-sided drum.
Cemetery Cloister
Monks tombstones
pave the perimeter of
this early 15th-century
cloister, the first to
be built here. In one
corner stands a well.
Entrance
Templar Castle
In 1160 the Templars Grand Master built
this castle on land given to the Order for
services in battle.
194
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Abrantes
Environs
The 16th-century church of
So Tiago e So Mateus, in the
unspoiled town of Sardoal,
8 km (5 miles) north of
Abrantes, holds a compelling
thorn-crowned Christ by the
16th-century painter, the Master
of Sardoal. An 18th-century tile
panel on the faade of the
Capela do Esprito Santo, in
Praa da Repblica, honours
Gil Vicente, the 16th-century
playwright born here.
The pretty whitewashed town
of Constncia, 12 km (7 miles)
west of Sardoal, nurtures the
memory of the poet Lus Vaz de
Cames. Sent away from court
for misbehaving with a court
lady, he lived here briefly after
1546. The Casa-Memria de
Cames, the poets home on
the river bank, can be visited.
P Casa-Memria de Cames
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
195
t Castelo de
Almourol
Road map C4. @ to Barquinha then
taxi then ferry. Open daily during daylight hours. n Largo 1 Dezembro,
Barquinha (918 429 086).
Torres Novas
Environs
Roman ruins dating from the
4th century AD at Vila Cardlio,
3 km (2 miles) southwest of
Torres Novas, retain some
superb mosaics and baths. On
the northeast outskirts of town
are the large Neolithic caves of
Grutas das Lapas. The small
wetland Reserva Natural
do Pal de Boquilobo, 8 km
(5 miles) south, between the
Tagus and Almondo rivers, was
declared a nature reserve in 1981.
The willow trees and aquatic
plants along the river shelter
wildfowl in winter, and nesting
egrets and herons in spring.
T Vila Cardlio
Remains of the hypocaust, the Roman underoor heating system, at Vila Cardlio outside Torres Novas
196
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Alpiara
Goleg
Environs
Almeirim, 7 km (4 miles) to the
south, was a favourite abode of
the House of Avis (see pp5051).
Today little of its royal past
remains and most visitors come
here to sample the famous sopa
de pedra (stone soup).
Many large estates and fine
stables extend across the vast
flat plains of this fertile horse
and cattle breeding area. The
Quinta da Alorna, a handsome
19th-century manor house
within walled gardens and
well known for its wines, lies
just outside Almeirim.
Martins Correia
Rua D Joo IV. Tel as above. Open as
above. Closed as above. 7 limited.
& Portal of Igreja Matriz in Goleg.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
The Tagus seen from the Jardim das Portas do Sol in Santarm
o
Santarm
197
198
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Coruche
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
E S T R E M A D U R A A N D R I B AT E J O
199
Alenquer
Torres Vedras
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
201
THE BEIRAS
Stretching from the Spanish frontier to the sea, the Beiras
are a bulwark between the cool green north and the
parched south. This diverse region encompasses the
heights of the Serra da Estrela and the salt marshes of
the Ria de Aveiro, and its towns vary from lively Figueira
da Foz to the stately old university town of Coimbra.
The three provinces of the Beiras (also
called Centro) may not be a tourist hub,
but their past commercial and defensive
significance has left its mark. In Beira
Litoral, the prows of Aveiros seaweed
boats are a legacy of trade with the
Phoenicians. All over Beira Baixa, from
Castelo Branco to little granite villages,
are relics of foreign occupations, and
Viseu, Beira Altas capital, grew up at a
crossroads of Roman trading routes.
The Romans were never as firmly
entrenched here as further south, but the
ruins of Conmbriga speak eloquently of the
elegant city that once stood here, and which
gave its name to Coimbra, the principal city
of Beira Litoral. Afonso Henriques, as king
of the new nation of Portugal (see p46),
moved his court to Coimbra, the young
countrys capital for over a century.
The upheavals of the nations founding
and a hard-won independence have left a
rich heritage of castles and fortified towns.
Distinctive candy-striped beach houses in Costa Nova, between the Ria de Aveiro and the sea
Boats anchored at the Canal de So Roque, Aveiro
202
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
OVAR
OCEA
Torreira
IC
7 Montemor-o-Velho
lo
lhavo
CARAMULO
gueda
Vagos
8 Coimbra pp20813
Sangalhos
9 Conmbriga
PRAIA DE
MIRA
0 Penela
Se
r ra
Curia
Carregal do Sal
Mira
q Lous
w Buaco pp21617
BUACO
Cantanhede
e Luso
Tocha
r Arganil
Cabo
Mondego
u Caramulo
i Viseu
Condeixaa-Nova
Lavos
p Trancoso
COIMBRA
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FIGUEIRA
DA FOZ
o Sernancelhe
s Almeida
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CONMBRIGA
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f Guarda
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Ri o
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COIMBRA
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a Celorico da Beira
Tbua
Portunhos
t Pido
y Oliveira do Hospital
Mortgua
LUSO
Mealhada
Tondela
do
lvares
PENELA
Leiria
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k Penamacor
l Monsanto
Sert
z Idanha-a-Velha
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bei
ra d e I s n a
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d Border Castles Tour
0 miles
Barragem
do Cabril
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j Sabugal
0 kilometres
Ri
o
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Campia
AVEIRO
AT L
5 Praia de Mira
mu
ANT
4 Aveiro pp2067
So Pedro
do Sul
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Talhadas
Rio Voug
So
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3 Ovar
AVEI R O
Estarreja
da
ra
1 Arouca
Ca
Sights at a Glance
a
Vale de Cambra
Ar
de
ra
Ser
Oliveira
25
15
THE BEIRAS
203
Getting Around
A rail network links the principal cities to smaller
towns, but stations are often outside the town.
Buses run from Coimbra to outlying areas, and
local buses link villages and towns throughout the
region. The most convenient way to explore the
Beiras, however, is by car. The Oporto-Lisbon A1
(E2) motorway passes close to Coimbra and Aveiro,
while the A25 motorway links Aveiro and the
eastern uplands. Long inclines and bad bends
make the A25 Portugals worst road for accidents.
All but the major routes are relatively traffic-free
and a pleasure to drive, but unpaved
sur faces can still be expected.
Vila Nova de
Penedono
Moimenta
Foz Ca
da Beira
omil
Marialva
de Le
S e r ra
Vila Nova
SERNANCELHE
Castelo
de Paiva
Rodrigo
Terranho
S e r ra
de
La
pa
Aguiar
Calde
TRANCOSO
da Beira
Pinhel
Vila Franca
ALMEIDA
Sto
das Naves
BORDER
Vila
Penalva do
CASTLES TOUR
Ch
Castelo
CELORICO
VISEU
Pinzio
DA BEIRA
o
Vilar
Mangualde
D
Castelo
Arrifana
o
Formoso
i
R
Mendo
A
Nelas
Linhares
L
E
GUARDA
Cerdeira
go
TR
de
Vale de
on
ES
Gouveia
M
Ado
Estrela
Paranhos
Seia
Vila
Real
VISEU
RR
Ri
o
C
a
GUARDA
SE
Manteigas
OLIVEIRA DO
HOSPITAL
Sortelha
Covilh
ze r
rad
Orca
IDANHA-A-VELHA
Alcafozes
Idanha-a-Nova
CASTELO BRANCO
Benquerenas
CASTELO
BRANCO
cre
Malpica
do Tejo
Vila Velha
do Rdo
Abrantes
MONSANTO
Tinalhas
al
ProenaO
a-Nova Rio
Medelim
Rio T
ejo
Zebreira
do
Ara
vil
PENAMACOR
Rib
eir
a
ra
lo
ta
Capinha
Fatela
sa
r
Se
lca
dunha
Almaceda
Mu
Oleiros
l
eA
Gar
Ma
Rio
Serr
a do
da
S e r ra d a
E rges
PIDO
r
o Z
Ao
Ri
S e r ra d o
Fundo
Silvares
a
rr
SABUGAL
Caria
Tortozendo
Bogas de
Baixo
Alfaiates
BELMONTE
Alto da Torre
1993m
Vide
Valhelhas
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Rosmaninhal
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Summit
204
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Arouca
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
THE BEIRAS
205
7 Montemor-oVelho
Road map C3. * 2,600. @
n Castelo de Montemor-o-Velho
(239 680 380). ( every other Wed.
Aveiro
See pp2067.
Praia de Mira
Figueira da Foz
E Museu Municipal Dr
Santos Rocha
Rua Calouste Gulbenkian. Tel 233 402
840. Open 9:30am5pm TueFri,
27pm Sat (Jul & Aug: 9:30am6pm
TueFri, 27pm Sat & Sun).
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec.
E Casa do Pao
206
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Aveiro
This little city, once a great sea port, has a long history
Aveiros salt pans were featured in the will of Countess
Mumadona in AD 959. By the 16th century it was a
considerable town, rich from salt and the bacalhoeiros fishing
for cod off Newfoundland. When storms silted up the harbour
in 1575 this wealth vanished rapidly, and the town languished
beside an unhealthy lagoon, the ria. Only in the 19th century
did Aveiro regain some of its prosperity; it is now ringed with
industry and is home to an important university. The ria and
canals give Aveiro its individual character.
Old Quarter
Tucked in between the
Canal das Pirmides
and the Canal de So
Roque are the neat,
whitewashed houses of
Aveiros fishermen. In
the early morning the
focus of activity is the
Mercado do Peixe,
where the fish from the Bridge across the Canal de So Roque
nights catch is auctioned.
Delgado are the principal hisSkirting the Canal Central,
toric buildings of Aveiro. The
along Rua Joo de Mendona,
are Art Nouveau mansions and
Misericrdia church in the
some of the many pastelarias
Praa da Repblica dates from
selling Aveiros speciality: ovos
the 16th century, its faade of
moles. Literally soft eggs, these
azulejos framing a splendid
are a rich confection of
Mannerist portal. In the same
sweetened egg yolk in candied
square stands the stately
casings shaped like fish or
18th-century Paos do
barrels. As so often in Portugal,
Concelho, or town hall, with its
the original recipe is credited
distinctive Tuscan-style pilasters.
to nuns. Ovos moles are sold
Nearby, opposite the museum,
by weight or in little barrels.
is Aveiros modest 15th-century
cathedral of So Domingos. The
figures of the Three Graces over
Across the Canal Central
the door on the Baroque faade
South of the Canal Central and
were added in 1719.
the bustling Praa Humberto
THE BEIRAS
207
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C3. * 73,500.
n Rua Joo Mendona 8
(234 423 680). ( 28 of month.
_ JulAug: Festa da Ria.
Transport
Avenida Dr Loureno
Peixinho. @ Avenida Dr
Loureno Peixinho. 4 Forte de
BarraSo Jacinto: daily.
Ria de Aveiro
Porto
Fu
uradou
urad
ura
our
uro
Ovar
vva
a
Pard
Pa
P
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a
dilh
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Mur
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Avei
A
Av
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lha
l
ha
avvo
o
Vista A
Alegre
egrrre
e
Figueira
da Foz
0 kilometres
0 miles
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Other road
Salt marsh
Est
Esta
Es
E
sta
sst
ttarreja
rrej
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Voug
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10
5
208
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Coimbra
RU
AVEIRO
DE
RM
DI
A
OC
O
E
O D
RE
IR
RE
Igreja
do Carmo
IT
GA
LH
S
R. D A
R.
PA
DE
IR
A.
VEI G A
PRACA DO
COMERCIO
Arco de
Almedina
TA
SO
ID
LARGO
DA
PORTAGEM
go
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CO
SA PO
NT NT
A ED
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AR
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DE
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BR
IG
A
AD
DA
AR
AS
GU
GL
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E
SD
RU
TO
V ELH
Portugal
dos
Pequenitos
EN
Santa Claraa-Velha
STR
NV
CO
CA
DO
ANTI GA E S T
RAD
NACIONAL A
IN
NID
JO
AV.
ES
AVE
Santa Claraa-Nova
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
IN
RE
DA
AS
DA
EN
VO
So Tiago
Estdio
Universitrio
ROSSIO
DE SANTA
CLARA
C R
RU
ID
TR
PRACA 8
DE MAIO
Santa Cruz
O
R. D
MA
EN
R. VISCONDE
R. D D A L U Z
O
FER
AV
de
IR
R . F E RR E
IR
BORGES A
RU
AV
on
UE
Coimbra 'A'
NQ
FI
A J
R U LARGO
DAS
OLARIAS
OS
JU
SO
AO
DA
JO
O
UA
IDA
O LE IR
EN
S
R. DO
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R.
RR
RU
LARGO
DO
ARNADO
AV
Orientation
In the historic heart of the city,
high above the Mondego, lie
the cathedrals, university and
a fine museum, but a first
impression of Coimbra is likely
to be of commerce, not culture.
Shops, traffic and the railway
rule the riverside and around
the Praa do Comrcio. The
Largo da Portagem is a useful
starting point, and river trips
depart from nearby, alongside
the Parque Dr Manuel Braga.
RU
JO A D
O O
M AR
AC NA
H A DO
DO
A
SA
R O O
R. ALC
F
Bus Station
200 m ( 220 yards)
Igreja
da Graa
RU
POMBAL
& LEIRIA
IO
COIMBRA
209
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C3. * 143,800.
n Praa da Repblica (239 098
960); Edifcio da Biblioteca Geral,
Universidade de Coimbra (239
834 158); Largo da Portagem
(239 488 120). ( MonSat.
_ May: Queima das Fitas.
EU
DE D
Mercado
E
F O NT
RU A D A
IN
O JA C
O
TO
RUA
.D
R.
R PO
CO
O L AU R U I F E R N A N
R
LO
A
NOV
ES
IO
VI
BA
EI
ND
QU
EN
TA
RA
Teatro
Acadmico
Gil Vicente
PRAA
DA
REPBLICA
RA
Parque
de Santa
Cruz
A.
G
AR
I
VE
LI
O OS
D E AT
A M
RE
RU
RUA VENNCIO RODRIGUES
TT
ARCOS
DO
JARDIM
Aqueduto de
So Sebastio
RU
TO
Jardim
Botnico
HENRI
EI
DE
RA
LARGO
D.DINIS
RO
RU
BO
DA
TE
. JLIO
AV. D R
IS
URAA DE L
AN
RO
ST O
CA S
A AT O
RU M
RR
Velha
Universidade
RUA S. PED RO
RUA S. JOO
VA
AN
S EST U D OS
RU A DO
LG. DE
S NOVA
S Velha
ID
S
Nova
VELHA
CO
EN
DO
RUA D O
LO U
Palacio
dos Grilos
AV
R U A PAD R
R EIR O
Torre de
Anto
Museu Nacional
Machado de
LARGO
Castro
DA S
RU
DES
Jardim
da
Manga
N
RUA D E M O
R. OL M P I O N I C
OIO
ARR
QUES
Parque
Manuel
Braga
LOUS
Coimbra
Parque
0 metres
0 yards
200
Transport
Coimbra A, Av Emdio
Navarro; Coimbra B, N of city, on
N11. @ Av Ferno de Magalhes.
200
3 Santa Cruz
4 So Tiago
5 Torre de Anto
6 Arco de Almedina
7 S Velha
8 Museu Nacional Machado
de Castro
9 S Nova
0 University
q Jardim Botnico
w Santa Clara-a-Nova
e Portugal dos Pequenitos
r Santa Clara-a-Velha
210
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Exploring Coimbra
That the citizens of Coimbra fondly call their river, the
Mondego, O Rio dos Poetas gives a clue to the affection they
have for their vibrant and beautiful city. From the university
(see pp21213) at the top of Alcaova hill, down the narrow
streets and stairways to the lower town, the city is crammed
with historic buildings and treasures (and, all too often, slowmoving traffic). Most sights are within walking distance of
each other, and despite its steep hill, Coimbra is a city best
appreciated on foot. Across the Mondego there are further
historic sights and an unusual theme park for children.
Coimbra seen from the Mondego, with the universitys landmark belltower crowning Alcaova hill
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
COIMBRA
de Castro
Largo Dr Jos Rodrigues. Tel 239 853
070. Open 10am6pm TueSun
(OctMar: to 5pm). Closed 1 Jan,
Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. & (free Sun
am & until 2pm public hols).
museumachadocastro.pt
211
R Santa Clara-a-Nova
212
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Coimbra University
In 1290 King Dinis founded a university in Lisbon,
one of the worlds oldest and most illustrious. In
1537 it was transferred to Coimbra and located in
what used to be King Afonsos palace. Study was
mostly of theology, medicine and law until the
reforms by the Marqus de Pombal in the 1770s
broadened the curriculum. Several 19th-century
literary figures, including Ea de Queirs (see p59),
were alumni of Coimbra. Many buildings were
replaced after the 1940s, but the halls around the
Ptio das Escolas echo with 700 years of learning.
Coimbra University is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
. Capela de So Miguel
Although begun in 1517 the
chapels interior is mostly 17th
and 18th century. The azulejos,
ornate walls, even the fine
Mannerist altar, are eclipsed
by the dazzling organ,
angels trumpeting its
Baroque glory.
KEY
1 Portrait of Joo V (c.1730)
2 The portal of Capela de So
Miguel is Manueline in style, the
work of Marcos Pires before his
death in 1521.
3 The belltower, symbol of the
university, can be seen from all over
the city. The best-known of its three
bells, called a cabra, the goat, has
summoned generations of students
to lectures since the tower was
completed in 1733.
4 The Via Latina is a colonnaded
walkway added to the original palace
in the 18th century. The Portuguese
coat of arms above the double
staircase is crowned by a statue of
Wisdom, while below, figures of
Justice and Fortitude flank Jos I,
in whose reign (175077) the
Marqus de Pombal modernized
the university.
. Biblioteca Joanina
Named after its benefactor,
Joo V (whose coat of arms
is over the door), the library
was built in the early 18th
century. Its rooms, rich in
gilt and exotic wood, are
lined with 300,000 books.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
COIMBRA
213
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Universidade de Coimbra,
Pao das Escolas.
Tel 239 859 884.
Open 9am7pm daily.
Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & visit.uc.pt
Transport
@ 103 from train station.
To Ticket
Oce
Student Traditions
When the university was first founded, the
only subjects studied were canon and civil
law, medicine and letters grammar and
philosophy. To indicate which faculty they
belonged to, students began to pin
coloured ribbons to their gowns: red
for law, yellow for medicine, dark blue
for letters. Much has changed in 700
years, but students are still initiated in
rites whose origins are long forgotten,
and in May, as the academic year ends,
there is a ceremonial burning of ribbons,
the Queima das Fitas.
Porta Frrea
Built in 1634, this
heavy iron gate to
the university ptio
is flanked by figures
representing the
original faculties.
214
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Conmbriga
Penela
Lous
THE BEIRAS
215
Environs
Between Luso and Curia,
Mealhada is an attractive small
town in the heart of a region
famous for leito, sucking pig.
This enormously popular dish
is prominently advertised at
numerous hotly competing
restaurants in the area.
r
Arganil
The castle at Arouce, near Lous, oddly defenceless in its deep valley
Thermal Spas
Buaco
See pp21617.
e
Luso
216
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Buaco
. Fonte Fria
This impressive cascade, fed by
the greatest of the forests six
springs, tumbles down to a
magnolia-fringed pool.
Lu
so
J
Rua
dos
Fet
os
KEY
1 The Portas de Coimbra
J
Avenida do
leading to Luso
3 Tasmanian eucalyptus (1876)
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Key
Wall
Route of Via Sacra
THE BEIRAS
Monastery
Only the cloisters,
chapel and a few
monks cells of the
Carmelite monastery
remain. A plaque
records that
Wellington slept
in one of the
cork-lined cells.
217
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C3. 3 km (2 miles) SE
of Luso. n Luso (231 939 133).
fmb.pt
Open daily. Forest: Open daily.
& for vehicles all year round.
Museu Militar: Almas do
Encarnadouro. Tel 231 939 310.
Open TueSun. & 7
_ 27 Sep: Anniversary of
Battle of Buaco.
Transport
@
0 metres
250
250
Rua da R
ainha
0 yards
ste
iro
Mo
Via Sacra
Chapels containing life-size
figures mark the Stations of the
Cross along this winding pathway. They were installed by the
Bishop of Coimbra in 1693.
218
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
The village of Pido, blending with the granite of the surrounding Serra de Aor
t
Pido
Caramulo
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
From the museum the road
winds southwest up to two
viewpoints and picnic spots in
the Serra do Caramulo. About
4 km (2 miles) from Caramulo
are the wild-flower pastures
of Cabea da Neve, at 970 m
(3,200 ft). A little further on,
signposted to the West, is the
boulder-strewn upland of
THE BEIRAS
219
Viseu
220
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Sernancelhe
THE BEIRAS
Serra Cheese
Serra, made from the milk of ewes grazing in the Serra da Estrela
(see pp2245), is Portugals finest cheese. It is made in the winter
its success was once governed by the temperature of the womens
hands as they worked in their cool granite kitchens and traditionally
the milk is coagulated with flor do cardo, thistle. Now the small
factories producing the cheese, in rounds of 1.52 kg (about 35 lb),
are certified to ensure quality and authenticity (fakes are not
uncommon). At room temperature Serra becomes runny. The cheese
is scooped out with a spoon through a hole cut into the top.
Celorico da Beira
Almeidas complex fortications, still discernible despite the incursion of grass and wild owers
221
Almeida
222
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
a
ra D
S e ra r o f a
M
Ca
Rodrigo
From the 18th century,
Castelo Rodrigo was
largely abandoned in
favour of less isolated
Figueira, now a flourishing
little town known for its
almond blossom. Just to
the south, topped by a
huge stone Christ the
King, is the highest point
of the Serra da Marofa,
977 m (3,205 ft).
2 Castelo Rodrigo
3 Figueira de Castelo
Vale
Verde
J
de
Rib
ei
Tour ra
es
Aldeia
Nova
Salamanca
4 Pinhel
Vilar
Formoso
Guarda
Fuentes
de Ooro
Sabugal
Key
Tour route
Other roads
International boundary
5 Castelo Mendo
10
0 kilometres
0 miles
THE BEIRAS
223
E Museu de Guarda
Serra da Estrela
See pp2245.
h
Belmonte
224
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Serra da Estrela
Cabea do Velho
The granite of the mountain tops
has been eroded into many weird
shapes, such as this old mans
head near Sabugueiro. It is
matched by an old womans head
south of Seia.
Viseu
Gouveia
Cabeca do
Velho
Viseu
J
Seia
Valezim
In Valezim are
several old
water mills
of a type not
often found in
Portugal. Two
of them are
still used to
grind grain.
Alva
Sabugueiro
Curral dos
Martins
Valezim
Rodeio Grande
Z
Coimbra
Penha dos
Abutres
Muro
Vide
Rib
eira
de Alvoco
Torre
Unhais
da Serra
J
Alto da
Pedrice
re
Penhas da
Sade
KEY
spa, is now popular with skiers.
ze
Torre
Despite the
unpredictability
of snow, the slopes
below Torre are
used for skiing,
tobogganing or just
fun in the snow.
THE BEIRAS
. Linhares
Guarded by the towers of
its medieval castle, Linhares
is like a living museum. The
forum, from which medieval
justice was dispensed,
survives, as do many
fine houses from its
15th-century heyday.
0 Kilometres
Celorico
da Beira
Celorico
da Beira
0 miles
225
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D3. n Mercado
Municipal, Rua Pinto Lucas
Marro, Seia (238 317 762);
Covilh (275 319 560); Gouveia
(238 083 930); Manteigas (275
981 129).
( Sat in most towns. _ Feb:
Carnaval & annual cheese fairs;
Dec: Santa Luzia.
Transport
Covilh, Guarda. @ to
Covilh, Seia & Guarda. Limited
local service within park.
Key
Prados
Major road
Minor road
Linhares
Folgosinho
Guarda
Galhardos
Mo
nde
go
Guarda
Manteigas
Z
zer
Valhelhas
Belmonte
. Zzere Valley
The Zzere eventually joins the Tagus,
but here, near its source, the young
river flows through a classic glaciercut valley. The golden broom
growing here is used to thatch
mountain huts.
Covilh
Castelo
Branco
Poo do Inferno
This cascade in a gorge of the
River Leandros is a spectacular
sight, especially when it freezes
in winter.
226
CENTRAL PORTUGAL
Sabugal
Penamacor
Environs
Penamacor is the headquarters
of the Reserva Natural da Serra
da Malcata. These 20 sq km
(8 sq miles) of forested ilderness
shelter wolves, otters and, most
importantly, are one of the last
refuges of the Iberian lynx.
Visitors should first call at the
information centre for advice.
O Reserva Natural da Serra
da Malcata
@ to Penamacor or Sabugal. n Rua
Ribeiro Sanches 60, Penamacor (277
394 467). 8 9am5:30pm MonFri.
Monsanto
THE BEIRAS
Idanha-a-Velha
227
The historic little village of Idanha-a-Velha, among its olive groves beside the River Ponsul
NORTHERN
PORTUGAL
Introducing Northern
Portugal
230237
268287
230
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Mono
Vila Nova
de Cerveira
Arcos de
Valdevez
Caminha
Vila Praia
de ncora
Ponte da
Barca
Viana do
Castelo
MINHO
(See pp268287)
Vieira do
Minho
Esposende
Barcelos
Braga
Guimares
Bom Jesus do
Monte, near Braga,
attracts worshippers,
penitents and tourists,
who all come to climb
116 m (380 ft) up the
Baroque staircase (see
pp2845). This is the
Staircase of the Five
Senses, with fountains
depicting each of
the senses.
Celorico
de Basto
Pvoa de Varzim
Vila do Conde
Santo
Tirso
Lea da Palmeira
Amarante
Oporto
(Porto)
Penael
Douro Litoral
Cinfes
231
Bragana
Montalegre
Gimonde
Chaves
Boticas
Valpaos
Vidago
Trs-os-Montes
Cabeceiras
de Basto
Mirandela
Romeu
Vila Real
Peso da
Rgua
Pinho
Alto Douro
Meso
Frio
Lamego
Penedono
Castro
Daire
0 kilometres
0 miles
25
10
Miranda
do Douro
Torre de
Moncorvo
Freixo de
Espada
Cinta
Sendim
232
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Easter
Holy Week, culminating in
Easter Sunday, is the major
religious festival of the year.
In Braga, processions snake
round the city walls to the
great cathedral, and every
village has its own ceremonies.
The start of Holy
Week is heralded by
Palm Sunday, when
branch-waving
faithful line the streets
to commemorate the
entry of Christ into
Jerusalem. Good
Friday evening is
palpably solemn,
as innumerable
processions follow the
14 Stations of the
Cross, many believers doing
public penance as they recall
Christs suffering. In some
villages an effigy of the lifeless and bleeding Christ is
carried through the streets.
So Joo
Oportos celebration of
So Joo (2324 Jun) is
one of Portugals most
exuberant festivals. It
Gold
necklets
Embroidered
apron pockets
Romarias
233
Stick Dancing
Dancers
performing
at a festa
234
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Oporto
Vila Real
Tua
Pinho
Lamego
Peso da Rgua
Do ur o
Sa
bo
P in h
go
Cor
Tua
Styles Of Port
There are essentially two categories of port:
red and wood-aged. The former are deeper in
colour and will develop after bottling; the
Vintage
Ruby
LBV
Late Bottled
Vintage (LBV) is
wine of a single year,
bottled between
four and six years
after the harvest.
Filtered LBV may have less flavour
than unfiltered, traditional LBV.
Tawny
Tawny port
without
indication of
age may not
have been in
wood for long enough to develop
the complex flavours of aged tawny.
It may be a blend of red and white
ports, and its price is fairly low.
White
Vintage Port
Fermentation in cement or
steel tanks is a more common
method. Carbon dioxide builds
up within the tank, forcing the
fermenting must (juice from the
grapes) up a tube into an open
trough at the top. The gas is
released and the must sprays
back over the pips and skins,
in a process similar to treading.
In the fortification process, the
semi-fermented must is run into
a second vat where brandy
actually grape spirit is added.
This arrests the fermentation,
leaving the wine sweet from
natural grape sugar.
Thousands of bottles of
Grahams vintage port from
1977 await full maturation
in the cellars of the Vila
Nova de Gaia lodge.
In the interests of
maintaining the
highest standards
of quality and
of not saturating
the market port
producers do not
declare a vintage
every year. Each year, the wine
from the best vineyards is closely
monitored for 18 months, other
producers are consulted about
their quality, and then a decision
is taken. If a vintage is not
declared, the wine may remain in
wood to be blended as tawny or
LBV in future, or it may be bottled
as a single quinta port a kind of
second-label vintage. On average,
producers declare a vintage three
times in a decade, though not
always in the same years.
A good vintage needs time in
bottle to reveal itself. Fifteen years
is seen as a minimum, although
many impatient drinkers do not
actually wait that long; there
is even a fashion for drinking
young vintage port. The nature
of vintage ports aging process
results in a continuously evolving
list of great vintages. Most experts
agree, however, that no vintage
has yet equalled that produced
in 1963.
Pre-war vintages
1927, 1931, 1935: All great and
now very rare.
Post-war vintages
1945, 1947, 1948, 1955:
For the very rich and
extremely lucky.
1963 Perhaps the greatest
post-war vintage.
1994 A fine vintage,
particularly from
Dow, Taylor and
Quinta do Noval.
1997 Another fine
vintage.
2000 A very
promising year.
2003 A superb
vintage with
attractive ripe
fruit flavours.
235
236
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Minho
Northernmost Portugal is a
landscape of dense greenery,
punctuated with granite and
traversed by rivers. Trout, eel
and lamprey all still feature
prominently on local menus,
even if the trout nowadays is
mostly farmed and the lamprey
often imported. The Minho
region is also home to caldo
verde, the best-known of
Portugals soups. It is made with
Linguia
Morcela
Alheira
Paio
Salpico
237
Oporto
Modern cooking is largely
confined to Oporto, which has
some of the countrys most
innovative chefs, but the city
also retains culinary traditions
such as cooking tripe, which has
earned its citizens the nickname
tripeiros (tripe-eaters). It is also
famed for its egg-based pastries.
Weekly regional market at Barcelos in the Minho
Extreme Climates
The rows of vines that line the
slopes of the upper Douro
valley, neatly tracing its contours, give this once remote
region a tamed appearance
that belies its extremes of
climate. Cold winters, slow
warming in spring, and
blistering-hot summers bring
out the best in the thickskinned grape varieties that
go into making port. On the
Cozido Portuguesa is a
winter stew of beef, sausage
and root vegetables, suited to
the cold northern plains.
REGIONAL WINES
Vinho verde, the familiar light
white and slightly fizzy wine from
the Minho, has made something
of a comeback after a period of
neglect by produ-cers as well as
consumers. Its appeal lies in its
acidity (the crispness and
freshness of wine writing), its
carbon diox-ide sparkle and its
relatively low alcohol content
around 10 per cent. There is also
a fuller-bodied, more complex
style, made from the Alvarinho
grape in and around the town of
Mono. The red version of vinho
verde is rarely found outside the
region. Port wine (see pp2345)
is the other highlight among
northern Portuguese drinks,
but modern wines from the
Douro also merit serious
attention. They match the
regional cuisine admirably,
and their distinctive character
includes rare wine flavours
such as violets and heather.
Toucinho do cu translates as
heavenly bacon but is actually
a rich and mouth-watering
almond cake.
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
239
DOURO AND
TRSOSMONTES
On its way to the Atlantic, the Douro or Golden River weaves its
scenic path through deep-cleft gorges, terraced with thousands
of vineyards, to the historic city of Oporto, home of port. To the
northeast, the high plateaus and mountain ranges of Trs-osMontes, Behind the Mountains, form Portugals wildest region.
As early as the 9th century BC, Phoenician
merchants arrived in the Douro estuary
to trade. The Romans later developed
the settlements of Portus and Cale on
either side of the river, and the names
subsequently united, as Portucale, to
denote the region between the Minho
and Douro rivers. This was the nucleus of
the kingdom of Portugal (see pp467). The
estuary and coastal strip, or Douro Litoral,
is now a mix of fishing ports, beach resorts
and industrial zones, while Portus, at the
rivers mouth, became Oporto, the
regional capital and Portugals second city.
Rich from centuries of trade,
cosmopolitan Oporto is at once
modern and steeped in the past, its
waterfront and higgledy-piggledy streets
a delight to explore. From its hillside,
Oporto looks across the Douro to the
lodges which nurture the precious wine
to which the city gave its name: port.
Terraced vineyards covering the hillsides between Pinho and Alij, in the valley of the Upper Douro
A bridge over the River Sabor in Trs-os-Montes
240
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Sights at a Glance
1 Oporto pp24253
r Chaves
2 Santo Tirso
t Mura
3 Penafiel
y Mirandela
4 Amarante
u Bragana pp2645
5 Cinfes
6 Meso Frio
o Miranda do Douro
7 Peso da Rgua
p Mogadouro
8 Lamego
a Torre de Moncorvo
Se
r ra
do
Ge
L a ro u c o
S e r ra d o
Montalegre
Barragem do
Alto Rabago
Paradela
Pinzio
BA
DO
SERRA
OS
RR
O
Boticas
Carvalhelhos
Braga
Vidago
q Vila Real
Tours
e Serra do Barroso
VILA
Vila Pouca
de Aguiar
Alv
Cerva
Trofa
Mindelo
Ermelo
Roriz
Coronado
PARQUE NATURAL
DO ALVO
Frido
VILA REAL
Sabrosa
AMARANTE
CASA DE MATEUS
PORTO
Ermesinde Paredes
Matosinhos
OPORTO
Carneiro
PENAFIEL
Baio
Valongo
rr
SANTO
TIRSO
Se
Braga
Viana do
Castelo
ad
o
Guimares
PESO DA
RGUA
MESO
FRIO
PORT
Cambres
Boelhe
LAMEGO
Aguda
Rio Melres
Do
ur
o
Tarouqela
CINFES
Espinho
Tarouca
Viseu
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Armamar
VISEU
Crquere
25
0 kilometres
10
0 miles
Port country near Pinho, where vineyards clothe the banks of the Douro
PAR
QUE
N AT U R A
Rio
BRAGANA
ela
Gimonde
So Pedro
Zoio
No
gue
Rebordelo
MIRANDELA
de
a
rr
Se
Trindade
Pombal
Alij
Tua
CO
UN
TR
ra
Alfndega
da F
Vila Flor
rn
MIRANDA
DO DOURO
BRAGANA
es
Chacim
Morais
Souteio
S
MOGADOURO
ra
er
de
Mo
d
ga
ou
Duas
Igrejas
ro
Sendim
Bemposta
Vale de
Porco
Sabor
TORRE DE
MONCORVO
Rio Douro
Malhadas
Parada
o
Ri
Carrazeda de
Ansies
So Joo
da Pesqueira
Bo
Vimioso
Izeda
Do
ur
Abreiro
u
oT
Ri
Pinelo
Ri
o
Franco
MURA
Santa Comba
de Rossas
Vinhas
Macedo
de Cavaleiros
Romeu
Jou
Zamora
Ser
Vale de
Telhas
REAL
da
Torre de
Dona Chama
Valpaos
So Julio
or
Sab
Rio
Ri
oT
u
te
CHAVES
MONTESINH
Vinhais
M en
Soutelo
Frana
DE
i ra
Ourense
Rio de Onor
Montesinho
Mofreita
FREIXO DE ESPADA
CINTA
Vila Nova
de Foz Ca
Guarda
Getting Around
With the frenetic tempo of traffic in Oporto, it is
best to negotiate the inner city by bus, taxi or on
foot. Boat trips from Oporto are a good way to see
the varied Douro landscape at a relaxed pace.
Trains link Oporto to the major towns of the north
and also run along the Douro valley. Services are
less frequent beyond Peso da Rgua, but a trip
alongside the Douro is highly recommended. In
Trs-os-Montes, public transport is minimal and
driving is the most convenient way to explore this
remote region, especially now the IP4 (E82) links
Vila Real and Bragana. However, the state of repair
of many minor roads leaves a lot to be desired.
241
242
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Oporto
GO D
L A R RAD O
O
PRIO
O
R. DE SO
PA U L
RU
DE
O
DA
UA
Igreja
de so martinho
de baluges
PA
D
PIE
RE
DA
CR
UZ
RUA DA
TORRINH
A
DE
D I NIS
DO
JLI
R. D O C AMP O ALE
G RE
SAUDA D E
R U A DA PA
RU
DA
A
Z
RU
DE DE
A DA
RU RNI
E
AT
UA
A
R.
Q UI
RE
RU
RU
FOZ DO
DOURO
Ribeira
This riverside quarter is a warren
of narrow, twisting streets and
shadowy arcades. Behind
brightly tiled or pastel-painted
faades, many in faded glory, a
working population earns its
living, hangs out the washing,
chats and mixes in lively street
scenes. Restoration of this
atmospheric district is attracting
a growing number of
restaurants and nightclubs.
Cordoaria
The Cordoaria gardens lie in the
lee of the hilltop landmark of
the Torre dos Clrigos (see p247).
Nearby streets are full of
interesting shops.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Jardim do
Palcio de Cristal
Museu do
Carro Elctrico
DA
YNE
BO
E NT
BRE
NO
VI L
VA
DE
DE
O
R. D
Museu
Soares dos
Reis
AD
.M
ANUE
L II
Museu
Romntico
AS
NT
RU A D E A N IB A L
C UNH A
RU
D O B O M SU CES S O
A R
LO U A
SA DE
M PA
IO
Ever since the Romans built a fort here, where their trading route
crossed the Douro, Oporto has prospered from commerce. Quick to
expel the Moors in the 11th century and to profit from provisioning
crusaders en route to the Holy Land, Oporto took advantage of the
wealth generated by Portugals maritime discoveries in the 15th and
16th centuries. Later, the wine trade with Britain compensated for the
loss of the lucrative spice trade. Still a thriving industrial centre
MATOSINHOS
and Portugals second-largest city, Oporto, known locally
Airport
20 km (12 miles)
as Porto, blends industry with charm. In 2001 the city, the
Fundaao de
Serralves
historic centre of which is a UNESCO World Heritage site,
PRAA
A V.
DA
MOUZINHO DE
BOA
VIST
ALBUQUERQUE
was the European Capital of Culture.
A
BOAVISTA
RUA
R E S TA
DA
R U A N O VA
DE
AL
URA
ND
EG
Museu dos
Transportes e
Comunicaes
OPORTO
243
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C2. * 245,000. n Rua
Clube dos Fenianos 25 (223 393
472); S Cathedral, Terreiro da S
(223 325 174). _ 2nd half of Jun:
Festas da Cidade.
portoturismo.pt
Transport
k Francisco S Carneiro, Pedras
Rubras 20 km (12 miles) N (229
432 400). National & International: Campanh; Regional:
So Bento (808 208 208). @
Praeta Rgulo Megoanha; Rua
Alexandre Herculano; Rua da
Restauraao; Praa da Galiza;
Campo 24 de Agosto; Praa
General H. Delgado.
R.
ANT E D . H E
N R IQ
I NF
U
RIBEIRA
A
IBEIR
Casa do
Infante
A R
CAIS D
R.
R. SAR AIVA
D E CA R VAL HO
Casa-Museu
Guerra
Junqueiro
UA
CH
RUA
DE
C ATA S A N TA
R IN A
I RES D
A LI B ER
D
S
DA
IR A
RUA
ILA
DE
S . IL
R.
T
EN
FON
RE
PA
RUA
Santa D O
Clara
BAIXA
AV
So Bento
ES
A PER
ur
FL
E
OR
R. DA MA
DE
SA
Campanh
Train Station
1.6 km (1 mile)
R. DE
PA
MAN SS OS
UEL
Palcio
da Bolsa
So Francisco
Do
Igreja da
Misericrdia
DE
R UA ON TE
E LO M
MO
RU
RU
RUA
F E RRE I RA B O R G ES
Igreja de S.
Joo Novo
A F
OR
AS
SO
D
RE
ES
5 Igreja do Carmo
6 Igreja dos Clrigos
7 Igreja dos Congregados
HER RUA
CU A.
LAN
O
8 Igreja da Misericrdia
9 Museu dos Transportes e
DO S
OL
RUA S.
MIGUEL
ES T
OM
RU A 31 D E J AN E IR O
C L R I G O S Aliados
Igreja dos
Clrigos
RU A S.
BE NT O
D A VI T
RI A
Mosteiro de
So Bento
da Vitria
IA
RU
Igreja dos
Congregados
AR
E V IM
A V. D
NSO
. AFO
AV. D R IQ U E S
HEN
DA
TR
P
RU
C A M PO
Jardim da
Cordoaria
DO
AND
Mercado
do Bolho
Comunicaes
UL
Universidade
R.
Cmara
Municipal
FAB
RIC
A
PR.
RUA DO GOMES
CARM O TEIXEIRA
RU A J OS
FA L C
O
R. S
T E R A NTA
ESA
R. D
A
R.
R U A D O B ON J A R D I M
Igreja
do Carmo
RUA
EIR
R. D
E F
ERN
GE
JOR
RUA DO ALMADA
PRAA
CARLOS
ALBERTO
O
R. D A P ICA R I A
CORDOARIA
Palcio
da Justia
H E IR
ES SA
TR AV D O FE ITA
E
DE C
UEL
E MIG
RUA D BARDA
BOM
R. C
M EN R .
ES
P IN
LH
Igreja
da Trindade
I TA
FE
R. M
DO
ANT
RU
RT
CE
MIR
RU A
A
DA M
O
SI UZ
LV I N
EI H
RA O
DE
RUA D O A LMAD A
ADE
RUA
AGA
OS BR
RUA D
R. D
E
BAN S D
D E IR A
A
RAL
CAB
IM
RES
BRAGA,
LEA DO BAILIO
AU
G
RO USTO
SA
DE A
LV A
Lapa
R.
RUA
VIST
AV. D O S
ALIADOS
DA B
OA
RUA
D U Q UE D E
0 Palcio da Bolsa
q So Francisco
Fernandine Wall
.
A G
NID
AV E I F F E L
E
w Casa do Infante
e S
r Casa-Museu Guerra Junqueiro
t Santa Clara
VILA NOVA
DE GAIA
Key
COIMBRA
0 metres
250
Jardin do Morro
0 yards
250
244
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
R UA D A S F LO R E S
RUA ESCUR
A
Terreiro da S
This broad open terrace offers a
wonderful panorama of the city. In one
corner stands a Manueline pillory,
complete with hooks.
CA
LA
DA
DE
VAN
DO
MA
. S
Although imposing and perhaps a little forbidding,
Oportos cathedral contains many small-scale
treasures. This 17th-century gilded painting of the
Last Supper is in the Capela de So Vicente (see p246).
AV
. V
IM
AR
A P
ER
ES
DE
DO
M HUGO
TERREIRO
DA S
Former bishops
palace
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Ponte de
Dom Luis I
OPORTO
Praa da
Liberdade
245
PRAA DE
ALMEIDA
GARRETT
LOUREIRO
DO
A
RU
AVE
NID
A D
OM
AFO
NSO
HEN
RIQ
UES
So Bento Station
C
R
. So Bento Station
Oportos central railway station, on the site of an earlier
monastery, was completed in 1916. Inside is a feast of
azulejos by Jorge Colao (see p31), depicting early
modes of transport, rural festivities and historic scenes.
The Fernandine
Wall, named after
Fernando I, was
built in the 14th
century; only
fragments here
and along the Cais
da Ribeira (see
p242) remain.
RU
A
C AS A R
RV AIV
AL
A
HO DE
Santa Clara
The Mannerist church
of Santa Clara presents a
strong contrast between
its simple external faade
and the opulent gilded
woodwork of its interior.
0 metres
0 yards
50
50
Key
Suggested route
246
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Exploring Oporto
Throughout Oporto there is evidence of the wealth that
flowed into the city from the 15th century onwards. Trade in
the commodities from Portugals newly claimed lands (see
pp52 3) brought Brazilian gold and exotic woods to embellish
Oportos churches, and prosperous merchants spent
prodigiously on paintings and azulejos. Recently the city
authorities restored footpaths, cobbled streets and stone
steps to create five historical walks between the Jardim do
Palcio de Cristal and the river.
R S
E Casa-Museu Guerra
Junqueiro
Rua de Dom Hugo 32. Tel 222 003
689. Open 10am5:30pm daily.
Closed public hols. &
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
e Comunicaes
Rua Nova da Alfndega, Edifco
da Alfndega. Tel 223 403 000.
Open 10am 1pm & 26pm TueFri,
37pm Sat & Sun. Closed 1 Jan,
24 Jun, 25 Dec. & 7 amtc.pt
OPORTO
Solomon, who
succeeded his
father, David,
was famed for
his wisdom and
for the building
of the Temple
in Jerusalem.
Virgin
Mary
R So Francisco
247
Jesus
Christ
Joseph
King David,
identified by
his harp
248
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Detail of the azulejo panel on the side wall of the Igreja do Carmo
R Igreja do Carmo
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Ponte da
Arrbida
Quayside of
the Cais da
Estiva
OPORTO
de Cedofeita
Largo do Priorado. Tel 222 005 620.
Open phone to check. 7
Constructed in Romanesque
style in the 12th century, this
plain little church is thought to
be the oldest in the city. It is said
to have been built on the site
where Theodomir, the King
of the Suevi (a Germanic tribe
who occupied the area), was
converted to Christianity in the
6th century by Saint Martin.
Cais da Ribeira is one
of the quays at which
river boats moor.
249
Cristal
Temporary exhibits in the billiards room of
the Museu Romntico
E Museu Romntico
Former
bishops
palace
Torre dos
Clrigos (see
p247)
S (see p246)
Ponte de
Dom Lus I
252
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
E Fundao de Serralves
Museu de Arte
Contempornea
Panorama of Oporto and port storage warehouses seen from the Ponte de Dom Lus I
de Castro
Rua Costa Cabral 716. Tel 225 094 625.
Open by appt (223 393 770). &
OPORTO
253
O
IM
OPORTO
A DO C A B
RU
Ponte
Dom Lus I
LU
E MAGALHE S
RU A A. D
General Torres
R U A E. GARCIA
IS
DE
T ER
I
N
T
I R
AM
RE
TA
JA
EI
A
RUA
GEN
OU P
R ES
L TOR
ERA
REI
CH
TO
DO
FR
IC
DOS
UA
Barros
BL
Taylor
PIN
LC
MARCO
FA
D.
R U A E ITA S
E FR
OR D
L EO N
Cockburn
VA L E N T E PERFEITO
R R
E S
OR G ES
C AB O B
R UA DO
M E S
CA
RU
A
IDO
RU
ND
O FO
BAR
R.
PA
O
AD
JO
RUA
RA
A
LT
SER
RU
DE
DA
RUA
Vasconcelos
A
VE
N
RU
RUA
E
D E
A ERD
R U LV
VA
RUA
RU
AF
ER
R.
SA
A
ST S
O O
C NT
RA
RUA D A
RVAL H
O SA
CA
A
NJ
RA
RU
R. D
IRO
Ramos Pinto
TO
RU
D
R.
RE
PIN
Ferreira
R U
OS
Jardim do
H Morro
A L
E O
DA
Graham
M
A V. R A
A
ID
E N Sandeman
Clm
O AGRO
RUA D
Exhibition
Park
AV
LE
ES
C . DA
SER
TA
Douro
NERA L TO
A GE
RR
I A A DA
R
Castelo
OG
DI
R.
RO C
ID
I
E
PE A
C OR E I
S
EN
R.
Mosteiro da
Serra do Pilar
AV
C
S
E
IT
Borges
COIMBRA
EL
0 metres
0 yards
250
Port Lodges
250
1 Graham
6 Ramos Pinto
2 Ferreira
7 Taylor
3 Cockburn
8 Sandeman
4 Barros
9 Clem
5 Vasconcelos
0 Borges
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
254
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Santo Tirso
Environs
At Roriz, 13 km (8 miles) east of
Santo Tirso, the Romanesque
church of So Pedro perches
above the Vizela valley. A date
of 1228 is carved in the porch,
although there are claims that a
church may have stood here as
early as the 8th century. Above
the portal is a fine rose window.
Set apart from the church are an
attractive belltower and the
ruins of the monastic cloister.
Sanfins de Ferreira, 5 km
(3 miles) further east, is the
hilltop site of a citnia, an Iron
Age citadel, probably inhabited
from around the 6th century BC.
Traces remain of a triple ring of
defensive walls around about
100 huts, and there is also a
small museum on the site. The
guard next door will let you in
on public holidays.
T Sanfins de Ferreira
Environs
One of the regions foremost
estates producing vinho verde
is Quinta da Aveleda, just
north of Penafiel.
Boelhe, around 17 km
(11 miles) south of Penafiel,
merits a detour for the 12thcentury church of So Gens.
Only 10 m (33 ft) high, and a
mere 7 m (23 ft) in width and
length, it is claimed to be the
smallest Romanesque church in
the country. Its simple design
enhances the aesthetic appeal.
In the 13th-century church of
So Salvador at Pao de Sousa,
8 km (5 miles) southwest of
Penafiel, is the tomb of Egas
Moniz. A figure of legendary
loyalty, he was counsellor to
Afonso Henriques (113985),
the first king of Portugal.
Quinta da Aveleda
Penafiel
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Amarante
255
Praa da Repblica.
Tel 255 422 050. Open daily.
E Museu Amadeo
de Souza-Cardoso
Alameda Teixeira de Pascoes.
Tel 255 420 272. Open TueSun.
Closed public hols. &
Cinfes
256
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Peso da Rgua
Meso Frio
P Casa do Douro
Environs
In the surrounding countryside
are some beautiful quintas,
country estates producing port.
The Quinta da Pacheca is at
Cambres, 4 km (2 miles) to the
southwest. Dating from the
18th century, this winery also
produces red and white wines.
Quinta da Pacheca
Lamego
257
dos Remdios
Monte de Santo Estvo. Open daily.
Environs
At the foot of the valley 4 km
(2 miles) east, the Capela de
So Pedro de Balsemo is
said to be the oldest church
in Portugal. Although much
modified, the 7th-century
sanctuary, of Visigothic origins,
remains. Here, in an ornate
tomb, lies Afonso Pires, a
14th-century bishop of
Oporto. A statue of Nossa
Senhora do , the pregnant
Virgin, is from the 15th century.
The 12th-century monastery
of So Joo de Tarouca, the first
Cistercian house in Portugal,
lies 16 km (10 miles) south of
Lamego. The interior of the
church has many fine 18thentury azulejo panels, notably
those in the chancel depicting
the founding of the monastery,
and in the sacristy, where none
of the 4,709 tiles has the same
design. The church also
contains a remarkable St Peter
by Gro Vasco. The Count of
Barcelos, bastard son of King
Dinis, is buried here, his tomb
adorned with vigorous scenes
of a boar hunt.
Just to the northeast, Ucanha
is famed for its fortified tollgate
and bridge, imposing survivals
from the 12th century.
R So Joo de Tarouca
R S
258
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
So
Martinho
Paradela
de Guies
Quinta So Domingos
Porto
Galafura
Quinta do Crasto
Quinta
So Lus
Douro
Folgosa
5
3
Key
Tour route
Other roads
Railway
Ferro
Corgo
Estrada
2 Pinho
Many of the most
famous names in
port production
have quintas close
to this small town.
Its railway station
is decorated with
24 dazzling azulejo
panels depicting
local scenes and
folk culture.
259
3 Sabrosa
The village of Sabrosa, set
among vineyards above the
River Pinho, has a wealth of
15th-century houses. It was in
one of these that the explorer
Magellan (see p52) was born
in about 1480.
Sanfins do
Douro
Cheires
Pin
ho
So Mamede
de Ribatua
Quinta do
Bucheiro
Tua
Mirandela
Vale de Mendiz
4 Alij
Alij was officially
founded in 1226, but a
number of castros (hill
forts) in the area tell of
habitation from a much
earlier date. The name
of the pousada here,
the Baro de Forrester
(see p406), recalls the
famous reformer.
Linhares
J
Quinta
da Foz
Quinta de
la Rosa
D u o ro
Quinta do Castelinho
Valena do Douro
ac
Quinta do Panascal
h o d e V a le i r a
7 So Joo da Pesqueira
vo
Tabuao
Vila Nova de
Foz Ca
5 Tua
Tua, in a region famous for
its luscious oranges and figs,
has long been a junction
on the Douro railway line.
Travelling on one of the
infrequent trains is an
enjoyable way of seeing the
valleys terraced vineyards.
6 Barragem de Valeira
Until the end of the 18th century the
Douro was unnavigable beyond Cacho
de Valeira. Even when engineers had
bypassed the worst of the rapids, this
stretch of water remained treacherous
it was here that Baron Forrester met his
death until the water was tamed by
the Valeira dam in 1976.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
260
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Casa de Mateus
The principal faade of the Casa de Mateus, its pinnacled symmetry reected in a rectangular pool
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D2. Mateus, 3 km
(2 miles) E of Vila Real.
Tel 259 323 121.
Open 9am1pm & 26pm
daily (MaySep: to 7pm).
Closed 25 Dec. & gardens only.
8 compulsory in house. = casademateus.com
Transport
to Vila Real. @
Vila Real
261
Vila Real seen across the deep gorge of the Corgo and Cabril rivers
262
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Chaves
Serra do Barroso
da Regio Flaviense
Praa de Cames. Tel 276 340 500.
Open daily. Closed public hols.
& joint ticket.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
P Ponte Romana
P Thermal springs
Environs
Close to the village of Soutelo,
4 km (2 miles) northwest of
Chaves (the route is
signposted), is the strange
Outeiro Machado Boulder.
It measures 50 m (165 ft) in
length and is covered with
mysterious hieroglyphs and
symbols of unknown meaning.
These may be Celtic in origin.
Another gigantic boulder,
the Pedra Bolideira, lies near
Bolideira, 16 km (10 miles) east
of Chaves. Split in two, the
massive larger section balances
lightly, needing only a gentle
push to rock it to and fro.
The spa town of Vidago,
17 km (11 miles) southwest of
Chaves, is well known for its
therapeutic water. The Vidago
Palace Hotel (see p392), once
the haunt of royalty, has been
Mura
263
Mirandela
Environs
In a pretty valley 15 km (9 miles)
northeast of Mirandela lies
Romeu. Its Museu das
Curiosidades, as the name
implies, is a hotchpotch of exhibits
from the turn of the century
onwards. The collection of the
local Menres family, it includes
Model-T Fords, musical boxes
and early photographic equipment. Next door is the famed
Maria Rita restaurant (see p408).
E Museu das Curiosidades
The River Tua at Mirandela, with its Roman bridge and waterside parks
264
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Porta da Traio
. Castle
The castles Torre da Princesa,
scene of many tragic tales,
was refuge to Dona Sancha,
unhappy wife of Ferno
Mendes, and prison to
other mistreated wives.
Porta
da Vila
To town
Santa Maria
The churchs elaborately
carved portal dates from its
18th-century restoration.
. Domus Municipalis
This, the only surviving example of
Romanesque civic architecture in
Portugal, served as a hall where the
homens bons (good men) settled
disputes. Below was the towns cistern.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
A
RU
DO
O
RN
FE
O
AV
BR
265
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map E1. * 35,000..
n Avenida Cidade de Zamora
(273 381 273); Rua Ablio Bea
(273 331 078). ( 3, 12 & 21 of
month. _ mid-Aug: Nossa
Senhora das Graas.
Castle: and Museu Militar:
Tel 273 322 378. Open TueSun.
Closed public hols. &
Key
Suggested route
0 metres
50
50
0 yards
Porta do Sol
266
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Parque Natural
de Montesinho
i
The Dovecotes
of Montesinho
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
Just southwest of Miranda, the
village of Duas Igrejas is famed
for its stick dancers, or
pauliteiros, who perform at local
festivals and overseas (see p233).
The tradition is in decline, but
for the Festa de Santa Brbara,
on the third Sunday in August,
the dancers don their distinctive
black and white costumes and
are accompanied in their energetic display by drums and
gaita de foles (bagpipes).
267
The church and town of Mogadouro, viewed from beside the ruins of its 13th-century castle
p
Mogadouro
Environs
The fate of the Ca valley, south
of Moncorvo, was finally
decided in 1996 when plans
for a dam were dropped to
preserve the worlds largest
collection of open-air Stone Age
rock art. Discovered in 1933 and
estimated to be 20,000 years
old, it features bulls, horses, fish
and a naked man, the Homem
de Pisco. Vila Nova de Foz Ca,
Castelo Melhor and Muxagata
offer several guided tours a day
into the Parque Arqueolgico
do Vale do Ca, and visits must
be booked in advance. The
Museu do Ca has interesting
art and archaeological exhibits
on the Ca Valley.
s Freixo de Espada
Cinta
Road map E2. * 5,000. @
n Avenida do Emigrante (279 653
480). ( 5 of month.
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
269
MINHO
Known as the birthplace of the nation, the Minho has two
of Portugals most historic cities: its first capital, Guimares,
and Braga, the countrys main religious centre. Life in the
province is still firmly rooted in tradition. Agriculture thrives
thanks to abundant rainfall that makes this the greenest
area in Portugal.
The province of Minho occupies land
between the River Douro in the south and
the River Minho in the north. Fortified
hilltop stone forts (castros) remain as
evidence of the Neolithic history of the
region. When Celtic peoples migrated
into the area in the first millennium BC,
these sites developed into citnias
(settlements) such as Briteiros.
In the 2nd century BC, advancing Roman
legions conquered the land, introduced
vine-growing techniques and constructed
a network of roads. Roman milestones are
still visible in Peneda-Gers National Park.
When Christianity became the official
religion of the Roman empire in the 4th
century AD, Braga became an important
religious centre, a position it holds to this
day. The Suevi swept aside the Romans in
the 5th century, followed by the Visigoths,
who were ousted in turn by the Moorish
invasion of 711. The Minho was won back
Cows being herded across a bridge near the Brejoeira Palace, south of Mono
Aerial view of the basilica at Monte de Santa Luzia, near Viana do Castelo
270
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
0 miles
VALENA
DO MINHO
So Pedro
da Torre
Portela do
Extremo
Vila Nova
de Cerveira
Cabreiro
So Bento
Sapardos
Paredes
de Coura
Gondoriz
Seia
Covas
Romariges
Lanheses
Perre
Sistelo
Insalde
Braves
a
Lim
Rio
PONTE DA
BARCA
PONTE DE LIMA
Outeiro
Merufe
Cerdal
r
Se Ar
do
Sta. Comba
Montedo
Sago
Pias
Orbacm
Afe
MONO
R io M in h o
Arga de
So Joo
Vila Praia
de ncora
10
Vigo
Vilar de
Mouros
Foz do Minho
0 kilometres
Portela
do Vade
Correlha
Queijada
VIANA DO
CASTELO
Darque
Deocriste
Corvos
Cabedelo
Caldelas
Barroselas
Vila Verde
Baluges
Castelo do
Neiva
Prado
Palme
Mar
Abade do Neiva
Esposende
BARCELOS
Eirgo
Rio
o
ad
Cv
Martim
BOM JESUS
DO MONTE
BRAGA
Fo
Vila Seca
Estela
Pvoa de
Varzim
Rio Mau
Vermoin
Vila Nova de
Famalico
Riba dAve
Ribeiro
VILA DO
CONDE
Nine
Necessidades
Rates
A Vero-mar
Tebosa
Rio Ave
rvore
Porto
Porto
MINHO
271
Sights at a Glance
1 Caminha
2 Valena do Minho
3 Mono
4 Parque Nacional da Peneda-
Gers pp2767
5 Ponte da Barca
Ourense
6 Ponte de Lima
7 Viana do Castelo pp28081
So
Gregrio
Melgao
Rio Tranc
8 Vila do Conde
Penso
9 Barcelos
0 Braga pp2823
oso
Castro
Laboreiro
Cubalho
Lamas de
Mouro
w Guimares
e Citnia de Briteiros
Pe
ne
da
r Cabeceiras de Basto
Tourm
UE
Mezio
Getting Around
PARQ
Ser
ra
da
Senhora
da Peneda
Soajo
Lindoso
AL
r
Portela do
Homem
DA
do
CI
Entre
Ambos-os-Rios
-G
PENEDA
rra
Campo do Gers
ER
S
Outeiro
Paradela
Se
Caldas
do Gers
Terras do
Bouro
Cabril
Salamonde
Vilar da Veiga
Caniada
Amares
Pites
Ge
NA
Britelo
Cerdeirinhas
Chaves
Vieira do
Minho
BRAGA
S e r ra
Pvoa de
Lanhoso
do B a r ro s o
Rossas
Eir
Arosa
CITNIA DE
BRITEIROS
CABECEIRAS
DE BASTO
Balhe
Moreira
de Rei
So Torcato
R i o Tm
ega
Caldas das
Taipas
Freitas
Fafe
GUIMARES
Penha
Mondim de Basto
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
Felgueiras
Amarante
Key
Scenic route
Celorico de Basto
Caldas de
Vizeia
Vila Pouca
de Aguiar
Vila Real
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
272
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Environs
Foz do Minho, the
mouth of the Minho,
lies 5 km (3 miles)
southwest of town.
From here local
fishermen will take
groups (by prior
arrangement) to the
ruined island fortress
of Forte da nsua.
The small walled
town of Vila Nova de
Cerveira, 12 km (7
miles) northeast of
Caminha on the road
to Valena, has a
16th-century castle.
The tranquil atmosphere
Popular cafs in Praa do Conselheiro Silva Torres,
is ideal for a stroll in
Caminhas attractive main square
narrow streets lined
with 17th- and
1 Caminha
18th-century mansions, or
along the river front, where a
Road map C1. * 2,000. g @
car ferry runs to the Spanish
n Praa Conselheiro Silva Torres (258
town of Goin.
921 952). ( Wed.
This ancient fortress town
perches beside the Minho with
fine views across the river to
Spain. Occupied in Celtic and
Roman times for its strategic
position, Caminha developed
into a major port until the
diversion of its trade to Viana
do Castelo in the 16th century.
Today it is a small port, with a
daily ferry connection to A
Guarda in Spain.
On the main square is the
13th-century Torre do Relgio
clock tower, once a gateway in
the medieval defensive walls,
and the 16th-century Paos do
Concelho with its attractive
loggia supported by pillars.
Cross to the other side of the
square, past the Renaissance
fountain, to admire the seven
Manueline windows on the
upper storey of the Solar dos
Pitas mansion (17th century).
The Rua Ricardo Joaquim de
Sousa leads to the Gothic Igreja
Matriz. Begun in the late 15th
century, it has a superb inlaid
ceiling of panels carved in
Mudjar (Moorish) style.
Renaissance carvings above the
side doors depict the Apostles,
the Virgin, and several figures in
daring poses, including one
man with his posterior bared
towards Spain.
2 Valena do
Minho
Road map C1. * 3,000. @
n Paiol do Campo de Marte
(251 823 329). ( Wed.
Environs
The Convento de Ganfei, 5 km
(3 miles) east of Valena on the
N101, was reconstructed in the
11th century by a Norman priest.
It retains pleasing Romanesque
features, including ornamental
animal and plant motifs and
vestiges of medieval frescoes.
To visit the chapel, ask for the
key at the house opposite.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
MINHO
273
Mono
Bridge across the Lima at Ponte da Barca, with the town behind
Ponte da Barca
Deu-la-Deu Martins
In 1368, when a Spanish army had besieged Mono to the verge
of starvation, Deu-la-Deu Martins used the last of the towns flour to
bake rolls that she flung over the walls to the Spaniards, with taunts
that there were plenty more to
throw at them. Thinking their time
was being wasted in a futile siege,
the troops soon withdrew. In
gratitude for saving the town,
Deu-la-Deu (the name means God
gave her) is remembered on the
towns coat of arms, where she is
shown with a loaf of bread in each
hand. Pezinhos (bread rolls) de Deula-Deu used to be baked to honour
her memory, but the tradition is
The heroic Deu-la-Deu Martins on no longer followed.
Monos coat of arms
Stone granaries in Lindoso, dating from the 17th and 18th centuries
276
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Melgao
Lamas
de Mouro
Ser
ra
Pen
Nossa
Senhora da
Peneda
eda
Castro
Laboreiro
da
Mezio
Soajo
Aros de
Valdevez
Lindoso
Lim
Soajo
The traditional village of
Soajo, surrounded by terraced
hillsides, is known for its
collection of espigueiros.
The villages local festival takes
place in the middle of August.
Entre Ambos-os-Rios
Alb uf eira d e
V ila rinho d a s Furna s
KEY
Campo do
Gers
0 kilometres
0 miles
Braga
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
MINHO
277
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Rodeiro
Seara
Transport
@ from Braga to Caldas do Gers;
from Arcos de Valdevez to Soajo &
Lindoso; from Melgao to Castro
Laboreiro & Lamas de Mouro.
Tourem
Pites das
Jnias
Portela do
Homem
Homem
Outeiro
Albufeira de
Paradela
do
Ge
rra
Paradela
Montalegre
. Roman Road
Sections of the old Roman road
that ran from Braga to Astorga in
Spain, can still be seen at points
along the Homem river valley.
Se
Practical Information
Road map C1. n Caldas do
Gers: on main road (253 390
110); Lamas do Mouro: next to
camp site; Arcos de Valdevez: Rua
Professor Dr Mrio Jlio Almeida
Costa (258 520 530). Information
on camp sites, hiking & pony
trekking is available at these
offices and at Montalegre (see
p262). Lindoso castle: Open daily.
Closed public hols. &
Caldas do
Gers
Espigueiros
Cabril
va
do
Key
Road
Long-distance footpath
National boundary
278
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Ponte de Lima
MINHO
279
280
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Palacete S
Sotto Mayor
dates from the
Renaissance.
PRAA
DA
REPBLICA
F
V
RA
IE
CA
SA
CA
Misericrdia
Built in 1598, this unique
Renaissance building features
arcades supported by
magnificent caryatids.
RU
Museu
Municipal,
Nossa
Senhora da
Agonia
OT
BR
RUA
DA P
IC
RU
DO
PO
PRAA
DA
ERVA
RU
O
A H
A
RU
DO
TO
UR
IN
SP
I TA
E
L V
LH
RU
. Praa da Repblica
The Gothic arches of the restored Paos
do Concelho, formerly the town hall,
dominate the head of Vianas main
square. Manueline motifs include the
arms of Joo III.
DA
AM
LIA
T.
DO
HO
SP
IT
0 metres
0 yards
Key
Suggested route
VE
AL
LH
50
50
MINHO
281
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road Map C1. * 25,000. n
Praa da Erva (258 822 620). ( Fri.
_ 2nd Sun in May: Festa das
Rosas; mid-Aug: Romaria de Nossa
Senhora da Agonia.
portoenorte.com
Transport
Largo da Estao.
RU
GA
GO
CO
IN
H
Decorativas
Largo de So Domingos.
Tel 258 809 305. Open TueSun.
Closed public hols. & 7
T.
R
IG
DO
UE
IR
V.
EQ
. Igreja Matriz
The arch surrounding the west
door of Vianas 15th-century,
fortress-like parish church is
adorned with Gothic reliefs of
the apostles.
Environs
In order to enjoy exceptional
Set in the 18th-century
views, take the zig-zag road
Palacete dos Barbosas
to Monte de Santa Luzia,
Maciis, Vianas
Museu Municipal
5 km (3 miles) north of the
has an excellent
town centre. (A funicular
collection of rare
runs year-round from the
ceramics, furniture,
station.) The basilica,
archaeological finds and
completed in 1926 and
paintings. In one of the
modelled on the Sacr
upstairs rooms, walls
Coeur in Paris, is a
are tiled with animated
pilgrimage site with little
allegorical depictions
aesthetic appeal. The steep
of the continents,
climb, however, is well
while the chapel is lined
rewarded by the superb
with tiles signed by
views from the top of the
18th-century artist
dome. Behind the church
Policarpo de Oliveira
you can wander along
Bernardes (see p30).
Early 19th-century woodland paths or visit the
Among the exhibits are ceramic, Museu Pousada de Santa Luzia (see
a 17th-century Indop392). From the pousada, it
Municipal
Portuguese cabinet
is a short walk to the top of
magnificently decorated with
the hill, where there are traces of
inlaid ivory, and pieces of
a Celtiberian settlement (citnia).
Oporto faence from the
The excellent beach of Praia
Massarelos district, embellished
do Cabedelo, to the south of the
with fine brushwork.
town, is accessible by road via the
bridge or by a five-minute ferry
R Nossa Senhora da Agonia
crossing from the riverside dock
Campo de Nossa Senhora da Agonia.
on Avenida dos Combatentes da
Tel 258 824 067. Open daily. 7
Grande Guerra. To the north lies
Northwest of the centre, the
Vila Praia de ncora, another
mid-18th century Romanesque
popular beach resort.
282
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Braga
R S
The Jardim de Santa Brbara by the walls of the Antigo Pao Episcopal
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
MINHO
Environs
The simple chapel of So
Frutuoso de Montlios, 3.5 km (2
miles) northwest of Braga, is one
of the few remaining examples
of pre-Romanesque architecture
in Portugal. Built around the 7th
century, it was destroyed by the
Moors and rebuilt in the 11th
century. West of Braga, 4 km
(2.5 miles) from the centre and
on the road to Barcelos, is the
former Benedictine Mosteiro
de Tibes. Dating back to the
11th century, this magnificent
architectural complex with its
gardens and cloisters was
rebuilt in the 19th century.
At Falperra, 6 km (4 miles)
southeast of Braga, stands the
283
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C1. * 160,000.
n Avenida da Liberdade 1 (253
262 550). ( Tue. _ Holy Week
(week before Easter); 2324 Jun:
Festa de So Joo.
Transport
Largo da Estaco. @ Praa
da Galiza.
A V.
3 Cmara Municipal
PRAA DO
COMRCIO
Mercado
RUA
AZ
D O F E RR
4 S
PR. DO
MUNICPIO
RUA DIOGO
D E S O US A
Torre de
Menagem
S.
IQ
O HENR
JO
UES
CO
R.
Capela dos
Coimbras
JO
Santa Cruz
U LO
R.
LARGO SO
TIAGO
AV E N
CENT IDA
RAL
PRAA DA
REPBLICA
AR
RU A D. FR
E I C. BR AN
DO
UR O
MA
TA D
O
DO
RUA
TE L
LG. DO
S. FRANST CISCO
AS
Capela de
Conceiao
Bom Jesus
do Monte,
Igreja dos
Congregados
LARGO
JOO
IO
RA
PENHA
DO
RUA
DADE
LARGO
SO
PAULO
PA
S O
EL I
R
A LI B E
ID A D
PI M EN
Capela de
So Sebastio
RUA
AFONS
DOM
AP
AV E N
250
RUA
O
R . JER O NIM
0 yards
250
SC
RUA DO S
OUTO
R. D OO
F O RN
Train Station
350 m (380 yards)
BARCELOS
DO
R.
R. D
O
Cmara
Municipal
R.
O CRU
Z
SB
IS
CA
IN
Jardim de
Antigo Pao Santa
Episcopal Brbara
S
HO
R UA N O VA
I S E SO USA
PRAA C. TORRES
DE ALMEIDA
Palcio dos
Biscanhos
RUA D
OS CH
O S
PRAA
CONDE DE
AGROLONGO
Igreja do
Ppulo
9 Santa Cruz
S.
Mosteiro de Tibes,
So Frutuoso de Montlios
JUSTIN
7 Torre de Menagem
R UA DO C AR
M
0 Palcio do Raio
A
E IR
ERR
LP
B R IE
GA STRO
A
RU E CA
PR. A.
U D
A
HERCULANO
DO C
A R VA
LHAL
RUA
DE S
AND ANTO
R
N
RTO
NO OS
N . M AT
DE
0 metres
GE
Bus Station
1 Market
R . D O S FA L C E S
Palcio
do Raio
FALPERRA,
GUIMARES
284
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
KEY
1 Chapel of Darkness
2 Chapel of the Kiss of Judas
3 Chapel of the Last Supper
4 Chapel of Christs Agony
in the Garden
5 Chapel of the Flagellation
6 Chapel of the Road to Calvary
7 Chapel of Jesus before Pilate
8 Chapel of the Crucifixion
9 The Hotel do Elevador (see
p392) stands near the top of the
funicular.
0 Hotel do Parque
q The church of Bom Jesus was
built on the site of a 15th-century
sanctuary. In front of it stand eight
statues of people who condemned
Christ, including Herod and Pilate.
. Funicular Railway
The funicular (elevador) dates back
to 1882. Hydraulically operated,
it makes the ascent to the
terrace beside the church
in three minutes.
w Pelican fountain
e On the Staircase of the Five
Senses are five fountains, each
representing a bodily sense: sight,
hearing, smell, taste and touch.
r Statues, symbols and
inscriptions elaborate on the
theme of the senses.
t Chapel of Simon the Cyrenian
y Chapel of the Crown of Thorns
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
. Escadaria
The staircase is built of
granite accentuated by
whitewashed walls. The
steps represent an upward
spiritual journey.
MINHO
285
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C1. 5 km (3 miles)
E of Braga. Tel 253 676 636.
Open daily. - 0 5 daily.
Transport
@ v funicular to the top.
0 metres
0 yards
25
25
Escadaria
286
NORTHERN PORTUGAL
Guimares
E Museu de Alberto
Sampaio
Rua Alfredo Guimares. Tel 253 423
910. Open 10am6pm Tue Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, Easter, 1 May, 25 Dec. &
MINHO
287
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C1. * 60,000. n
Praa de Santiago (965 025 234).
( Fri. _ 1st weekend in Aug:
Festas Gualterianas.
Transport
Avenida Dom Joo IV. @
SOUTHERN
PORTUGAL
Introducing Southern
Portugal
290295
Alentejo
296319
Algarve
320337
290
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Ponte
de Sor
Mora
Arraiolos
Montemoro-Novo
vora
Viana do
Alentejo
Alvito
Beja flourished
under the Moors
and its museum is
housed in a former
convent resplendent
with Hispano-Arab
tiles, such as these
in the chapterhouse (see p317).
Grndola
ALENTEJO
(See pp296319)
Beja
Santiago
do Cacm
Sines
Castro
Verde
Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Ourique
Zambujeira
do Mar
Santa-Claraa-Velha
Almodvar
Monchique
Aljezur
Vila do
Bispo
Portimo
(See pp320337)
Silves
Lagoa
Lagos
Cachopo
ALGARVE
Albufeira
Alte
So Bras
de Alportel
Loul
Estoi
Faro
Sagres
0 kilometres
0 miles
291
25
10
Castelo
de Vide
Marvo
Crato
Portalegre
Alter do
Cho
Camp
Sousel
Elvas
Estremoz
vora
Monte
Vila Viosa
Alandroal
Redondo
Monsaraz
Reguengos
de Monsaraz
Vidiguera
Moura
Serpa
Mrtola
Alcoutim
Odeleite
Vila Real
de S. Antonio
Tavira
Cacela
Velha
292
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
1 Arrifana @ 0 - D
10
10
0 miles
Praia de
Monte Clrigo
Aljezur
Praia de
Arrifana
N2
68
Alfambras
20
N1
Bordeira
A22
Carrapateira
IC4
Bensafrim
Pedralva
Portimo
Alvor
N2
68
Odixere
Praia de
Castelejo
Budens
Vila do
Bispo
N125
Lagos
Algoz
Lagoa
Ferragudo
Alcantarilha
Albufeira
Luz
Figueira
Ferreiras
N125
Burgau
2 Castelejo -
Sagres
3 Beliche - D
4 Martinhal
5 Dona Ana
293
q Ilha de Tavira
@0L
-L
6 Meia Praia
@-0LD
8 Carvoeiro
@m0-
Carvoeiro is a fishing
village with a diminutive
cove. The whole area is
great for cove beaches,
and a boat trip or a walk
along the cliff will take
you to spectacular sandy
beaches with excellent
swimming and
snorkelling.
7 Praia da Rocha @ 0 L D
Azinhal
7
IC2
Castro Marim
2
A2
IP1
Conceio
N270
IP1
A2
Vilamoura
Almancil
Quarteira
Santo
Estvo
Pereiro
Santa Brbara
de Nexe
Esti
N2
Boliqueime
Loul
So Joo da
Venda
Cacela
Velha
Tavira
Luz
w Monte Gordo
Moncarapacho
Pecho
Quinta do Lago
Fuseta
Olho
Faro
Praia de
Faro
Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
N12
Ilha de
Armona
Ilha de
Tavira
@0-L
Ilha de
Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
9 Senhora da Rocha
@0-L
Senhora da Rocha,
named after a small
chapel on its eastern
promontory, is actually
three small, sheltered
beaches. Typical of
this part of the coast,
these half-moons of
sand tucked below
eroded yellow cliffs
are reached via
steep steps.
0 So Rafael
@m0-L
294
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Clams
Crab
Fresh figs
Giant prawns
Mussels
Squid
The Alentejo
For a region whose history and
identity is bound up with a poor
and landless peasantry, the
Alentejo has a surprisingly rich
culinary heritage. Dishes are
varied and use basic ingredients
imaginatively, leaving little to
waste. One example is Alentejan
bread, that famously keeps for a
long time. Even when at last it
Red mullet
295
REGIONAL WINES
Small, hot chillies known as
piri-piri make their way into
many local dishes and pickles,
while large, sweet red peppers
are char-roasted and peeled to
add to salads, or mashed into a
paste with salt to be preserved
as massa de pimento.
The coast yields delicacies such
as sargo (white bream) and
perceves, the odd-looking goose
barnacle, which is pried off steep
cliffsides at low tide. Deep-fried
dried eel is popular, and tastes
similar to pork crackling.
The Algarve
Portugals tourist hub is often
condescendingly regarded as a
culinary clich of grilled
sardines, vinegary salads,
grilled chicken and chips, but
that misses a few crucial points.
In the cataplana, a wok-shaped
copper pan with a hinged,
domed lid, the region has its
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
297
ALENTEJO
The sun-baked Alentejo occupies nearly one-third of
Portugal, stretching all the way from the Tagus south to
the Algarve. Its vast rolling plains, golden with wheat or
silver with olive trees, its whitewashed villages, megaliths
and castles, and above all the space and tranquillity, are the
Alentejos great attractions for visitors.
Stone circles, dolmens and other relics of
Stone Age life pepper the Alentejan plain,
particularly around vora, a historical gem
of a city at the regions geographical centre.
vora, like Beja, Elvas, Alter do Cho and
other towns, was founded by the Romans,
who valued this land beyond the Tagus
alm Tejo for its wheatfields. Introducing
irrigation systems to overcome the soils
aridity, they established enormous farms
to grow grain for the empire. Worked by
peasant farmers, these huge estates, or
latifndios, still exist.
Grain apart, the vast plains yield cork
from the bark of cork oaks and olives
Elvas is prized for these as well as its
candied greengages. Vineyards across the
region have long produced powerful
wines (see pp323), and some areas are
classified at the Denominao de Origem
Controlada (DOC) level. Wine tourism is
An Alentejan house in Odemira, with the traditional blue trim typical of the region
Marvo castle, dating from the 13th century
298
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Noitinhas
Novas
0 kilometres
2 Marvo
i Monsaraz
3 Portalegre
o Viana do Alentejo
4 Castelo de Vide
p Vidigueira
5 Crato
a Moura
6 Alter do Cho
s Serpa
7 Campo Maior
d Beja
8 Elvas
f Santiago do Cacm
g Sines
0 Alandroal
q Redondo
j Zambujeira do Mar
w Estremoz
k Mrtola
r Arraiolos
Tours
t Montemor-o-Novo
u Megaliths Tour
MONTEMORO-NOVO
Lisboa
Santiago
do Escoural
So
Cristvo
Alcovas
Alccer do Sal
Rib
eir
a
SETBAL
Torro
de
O
s
la
ve
di
e voramonte
Vendas
Novas
Grndola
Melides
Odivelas
y vora pp30811
Lavre
Vila Nova de
Santo Andre
Gr
Lagoa de
Santo Andr
dol
1 Serra de So Mamede
25
10
0 miles
Sights at a Glance
Montargil
Mora
an
r ra
de
SANTIAGO
DO CACM
Ferreira do
Alentejo
Azinheira
dos Barros
Abela
So
Domingos
Porto
Covo
ado
oS
Ri
Se
SINES
Aljustrel
Messejana
Cercal
VILA NOVA
DE MILFONTES
Santa Luzia
Rio
So Lus
ra
Mi
Almograve
ZAMBUJEIRA
DO MAR
Ourique
Odemira
Gomes
Aires
So Teotnio
Santa Claraa-Velha
Lagos
Albufeira
ALENTEJO
Castelo
Branco
Abrantes
Ri
be
ira
Nisa
CASTELO
DE VIDE
Gavio
Alpalhao
MARVO
SE
A
DE
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Se
PORTALEGRE
da
ALTER
DO CHO
da
eir
a
ib
bei
ra
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r
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P O R TA L E G R E
Vaiamonte
Fronteira
Avis
O
S
Ponte de Sor
Vila Formosa
Cceres
RR
Fortios
Flor da Rosa
isa
ejo
oT
Ri
ED
Arronches
Monforte
Santa Eullia
Sousel
Veiros
Vila
Fernando
Casa Branca
Pavia
Ribeira
de Ter
a
ELVAS
VORAMONTE
Ser
ARRAIOLOS
VILA VIOSA
ra
de
Oss
So Miguel
de Machede
So Matias
VORA
Pardais
o
Ri
Terena
VORA
Montoito
MONSARAZ
Reguengos
de Monsaraz
Portel
Mouro
Granja
Amieira Barragem
Key
dAlqueva
Alvito
Cuba
Amareleja
Pvoa
Alqueva
VIDIGUEIRA
Sfara
Se
Beringel
es
rg
Pias
da
Scenic route
Major railway
Ad
Sobral da Adia
i
Minor railway
National border
SERPA
Vila Nova
de So Bento
Regional border
Santa Iria
al
ur ian
at
e N uda
qu
G
Pa r
do
ale
do V
BEJA
Ch
an
Ribeira
de T
e
rr
Minor road
MRTOLA
Ri
o
Trindade
Rio G u
Santa
Vitria
Baleizo
a
adian
BEJA
Motorway
Major road
Barrancos
MOURA
Pedrgo
Castro
Verde
na
REDONDO
Oriola
Entradas
ia
ad
Gu
ALANDROAL
So
Manos
VIANA DO
ALENTEJO
Albernoa
Badajoz
ESTREMOZ
Vimiero
MEGALITHS
TOUR
Mina de
So Domingos
Almodvar
Faro
299
Getting Around
Montalvo
de
N
Esprito
Santo
300
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
1 Serra de So
Mamede
Road map D4. @ to Portalegre.
n Portalegre.
Marvo
Looking out over the plain from the heights of Marvos castle
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Portalegre
Strategically positioned on a
low plateau of the Serra de
So Mamede, Portalegre is of
Roman origin. At the end of
the 13th century, King Dinis
(see pp489) built a castle on
the citys highest point.
Textile, tapestry and silk
industries brought prosperity
in the 16th and 17th centuries,
reflected in the Renaissance
and Baroque mansions found
along Rua 19 de Junho, the
main street of the old town.
Close to Praa da Repblica
is the only tapestry factory
ALENTEJO
4 Castelo de Vide
still in use, the Manufactura de
Tapearia de Portalegre.
Road map D4. * 3,000. @
Uphill lies the cathedral, or
n Praa Dom Pedro V (245 908 227).
S. Built in 1556, it acquired its
( Fri (clothes).
Baroque faade and twin
pinnacles in the 18th century.
Sprawled on a green slope of the
The late Renaissance interior has Serra de So Mamede, this pretty
a sacristy lined with striking
spa town enjoyed by the Romans
azulejo panels. Dating from the
has worn well. It is fringed by
first years of the 17th century,
modern development but the
these depict scenes from the life lower town, around Praa Dom
of the Virgin Mary and the flight
Pedro V, retains its Baroque
of the Holy Family into Egypt.
church of Santa Maria, the 18thcentury town hall and pillory, and
The Museu da Tapearia
handsome mansions from the
de Portalegre displays
same era. In the Largo Frederico
contemporary tapestries and
Laranjo is one of several sources
shows the methods, materials
of the towns curative waters:
and tools used to create them.
the Fonte da Vila, a carved
The home of the
Portuguese poet and
stone fountain with a
dramatist Jos
pillared canopy. Just
Rgio (190169)
above is the mazeis near the Praa
like Judiaria, where
da Repblica.
small white houses
Now the Museu
sprout vivid pots of
geraniums. Its cobbled
Jos Rgio, it
alleys are lined with fine
contains some
Gothic doorways and
fascinating folk art
conceal a 13th-century
objects in a variety of
media as well as his
synagogue housing a
collection of crucifixes
small museum. The
towns oldest chapel,
and a recreated
the 13th-century
Alentejan kitchen.
The Espao Cultural
Salvador do Mundo
on the Estrada de
Museu Municipal
de Portalegre
Folk crucix, Museu Jos Circunvalao, has
a much admired
displays fine
Rgio, Portalegre
Flight into Egypt by
examples of 16than unknown 18th-century artist.
century painting and sculpture,
as well as beautifully crafted
In the upper town, the tiny
18th-century furniture.
Nossa Senhora da Alegria
offers a feast of 17th-century
E Museu da Tapearia
polychrome floral tiles. It stands
Rua da Figueira. Tel 245 307 530.
within the walls of the castle that
Open TueSun. &
gave the town its name. This was
rebuilt in 1310 by King Dinis,
E Museu Jos Rgio
who negotiated here to marry
Rua Jos Rgio. Tel 245 307 535.
Open TueSun. Closed pub hols. &
Isabel of Aragon. Inside the castle
are two small museums, the
E Espao Cultural Museu
Megalith Interpretation Centre
Municipal de Portalegre
and the Military Architecture
Rua Jos Marta da Rosa. Tel 245 307
and History Museum.
525. Open TueSun. Closed pub hols.
301
Crato
302
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Alter do Cho
Environs
Alter is best known for the
Coudelaria de Alter, founded
in 1748 to breed the Alter Real.
The stud extends to 300 ha (740
acres) around attractive stables
painted in the royal livery of
white and ochre. Accommodation is available here.
Spanning the Seda 12 km
(7 miles) west along the N369
is the robust six-arched Ponte
de Vila Formosa. This bridge
carried the Roman road from
Lisbon to Mrida in Spain.
G Coudelaria de Alter
E Museu do Caf
Elvas
Campo Maior
ALENTEJO
+ Castle
Contempornea de Elvas
Rua da Cadeia. Tel 268 637 150.
Open Tue pmSun.
Assuno
R Nossa Senhora da
Portas da
Olivena, the
main gateway
0 metres
Bastion
0 yards
250
250
E Museu Municipal de
303
Castle
304
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Chapel
Despite later additions,
the chapel has
retained its coffered
ceiling and other
features from the early
16th century. It was
here, on 3 December
1640, that the 8th
Duke learnt that he
was to become king.
Dining
room
First floor
Sala da
Cabra-Cega
The armouries, in a series
of vaulted rooms, display
swords, crossbows,
halberds and suits
of armour.
Ground floor
Formal Gardens
The Jardim da Duquesa and the Jardim do
Bosque are partly enclosed by palace walls,
but can be seen from the dining-room
windows. Their geometric formality reflects
the palaces architectural style.
The library is
contained in
several rooms and
includes precious early
works collected by King
Manuel II in exile (see p61).
Entrance
ALENTEJO
Royal rooms
Library
Chapel
Armouries
Kitchen
Treasury
Public areas
Palace Guide
Guided tours, which last
about an hour, take in the royal
rooms ranged along the first
floor and ground-floor areas
such as the kitchen and the
treasury. Entry to the coach
museum, on the north side of
the palace, and armoury
is by separate tickets. From
time to time areas may
be closed for restoration and rooms
can be shut off
without notice.
305
Vila Viosa
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Terreiro do Pao. Tel 268 980 659.
Open AprSep: 2:305:30pm Tue;
10am1pm, 2:305:30pm Wed
Fri; 9:30am1pm, 2:306pm Sat &
Sun (Jul & Aug: to 6pm TueSun);
OctMar: 25pm Tue; 10am1pm,
25pm WedFri; 9:30am1pm,
25pm Sat & Sun. Closed public
hols, 16 Aug. & 8 compulsory.
Key to Floorplan
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
306
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Redondo
Alandroal
Environs
The Convento de So Paulo
in the Serra de Ossa, 10 km
(6 miles) north, was built in
1376; Catherine of Bragana
stayed here on her return home
in 1692 after the death of her
husband, King Charles II of
England. It is now a luxury
hotel (see p393), but retains
its wonderful 16th- to
18th-century azulejos.
w
Estremoz
ALENTEJO
voramonte
Convento de So Domingos,
Largo Professor Dr Banha de
Andrade. Tel 266 890 235.
Open TueSun. & 7
Arraiolos
307
+ Castle
308
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Street-by-Street: vora
AD
AS
RU
RU
O
DE
D
D
NA
LV
DO
SA
The Fundao
Eugnio de Almeida is
a modern art gallery
and cultural centre.
. Roman Temple
Popularly believed to
have been dedicated
to the goddess Diana,
this temple was
erected in the 2nd or
3rd century AD. It was
used as armoury,
theatre and
slaughterhouse
before being
rescued in
1870.
IS
AB
TR
EL
AV
ES
PI
PRAA
DO
SERTRIO
SA
A
AS
RU
JO
O
RU
E
D
EU
RU
Rua 5 de Outubro
The shops along this
street sell curios and
handicrafts, from
painted chairs to
carved cork.
A
CO D
A D
E
VA S
VA
RU
DE
A 5
T
OU
BR
Key
Suggested route
PRAA DO
GIRALDO
Tourist
information
RU
A
D
EP
LI
To railway and
bus stations
Praa do Giraldo
The fountain in voras main square was erected in 1571. Its
marble predecessor received the first water delivered by the
towns aqueduct (see p311).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
0 metres
0 yards
50
50
VORA
DO
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D5. * 55,000.
n Praa do Giraldo (266 777
071). ( Sat & 2nd Tue of month.
_ Jun: Festa de So Joo; Jul:
vora Classical Music Festival.
Roman
walls
CO
GI
309
Transport
Largo da Estao. @ Estrada
de Lisboa.
Old University
(see p310)
RU
EI
BAI
FR
A D
E
DA
. Museu de vora
The citys museum (see p310) includes
works by artists who painted in vora,
such as the early 16th-century Two
Bishop-Saints by the Master of Sardoal.
Casa de Garcia de Resende
The house of the Renaissance poet
and diplomat, Garcia de Resende
(14701536), is distinguished by a
remarkable Manueline window.
RU
DA
FR
EIR
RA
XO
CI
L. DO
CONDE DE
VILA FLOR
. S
voras cathedral (see p310),
which took over 50 years to
complete, has the look of a
fortress about it. The portal
is flanked by a pair of
unmatched towers.
L
IS A
ER RG
IC O
DA
R
D
IA
L. DE MIGUEL
DE PORTUGAL
LARGO DE
LVA R O
VELHO
IS
IC
IA
310
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Exploring vora
Squeezed within roman, medieval and 17th-century walls,
voras web of streets is an architectural and cultural
cornucopia. From the forbidding cathedral, a stroll down past
the craft shops of Rua 5 de Outubro leads to Praa do Giraldo,
the citys lively main square, whose arcades are a reminder of
Moorish influence. voras religious dedication is reflected in
the number and variety of its churches over 20 churches
and monasteries, including a grisly chapel of bones. On a
happier note, voras restaurants are excellent and the
pleasure of wandering the historic streets is enhanced by
evocative names such as Alley of the Unshaven Man and
Street of the Countesss Tailor.
E Museu de vora
Cadaval
Tel 266 704 714. Open TueSun. &
VORA
311
+ Walls
E Fundao Eugnio de
Almeida
Pteo de So Miguel. Tel 266 748 300.
Carriage Museum: Open TueSun.
Closed public hols.
Prata
voras aqueduct was built
between 1531 and 1537 by the
towns own eminent architect,
Francisco de Arruda. The
construction was regarded with
wonder, and is even described in
Os Lusadas, the epic by Lus de
Cames (see p194). It originally
carried water as far as the Praa
do Giraldo. Like the walls, it was
damaged in the 17th century
during the Restoration War with
Spain, but a surviving stretch,
some 9 km (5 miles) long, can
still be seen approaching from
the northwest: visitors can
follow a well-signposted trail
for 8.3 km (5.5 miles).
312
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Megaliths Tour
2 Menhir of Almendres
1 vora
6 Grutas do Escoural
Montemor-o-Novo
Arraiolos
Giesteira
Montemoro-Novo
Santiago
do Escoural
Guadalupe
Senhora da
Boa F
Valverde
So Brissos
Alcovas
Alcovas
Tour route
So Brissos
Beyond the hamlet of
Brissos, this tiny chapel
has been created from
an anta or dolmen.
Another is to be found
at Pavia (see p307).
Key
5 Dolmen-chapel of
4 Dolmen of Zambujeiro
Other roads
0 kilometres
0 miles
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
5
3
ALENTEJO
313
Viana do Alentejo
Monsaraz
is a collection of vestments,
religious books and sculpture.
Its earlier role as a law court is
reflected in an unusual secular
fresco: O Bom e o Mau Juiz (The
Good and Bad Judge).
E Museu de Arte Sacra
Environs
Surrounded by vineyards,
Reguengos de Monsaraz,
16 km (10 miles) west, lies at
the heart of one of the regions
Environs
demarcated wine areas (see p33). The Moorish-style castle at
Its 19th-century church, Santo
Alvito, 10 km (6 miles) south
Antnio, was built in flamboyant of Viana, was built in 1482 for
Neo-Gothic style by the architect the newly ennobled Baro
of Lisbons bullring (see p122).
de Alvito; it now operates as
A number of striking
a pousada.
megaliths is found near
Monsaraz. The spectacular
Menhir of Outeiro, 5.6 m
(18 ft) tall, and the strangely
inscribed Menhir of Belha
are signposted in Telheiro,
just north of Monsaraz.
About 4 km (2 miles) south
is the Cromlech of Xerez,
a menhir in a square of
lesser stones.
At Mouro, some 8 km
(5 miles) further on, the
14th-century castle looks
out over Lake Alqueva.
Houseboats, canoes and
kayaks to explore the lake
can be hired at the marina
at Amieira, 39 km (24 miles)
further south. Sightseeing
cruises can also be booked The low roofs and distinctive pepperpot chimneys
here (Tel: 266 611 173/4).
of Mouro, near Monsaraz
Whitewashed houses in the village of Monsaraz
316
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Serpa
Vidigueira
Moura
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
Serpa is just 35 km (22 miles)
from the Spanish border. The
Moors, and later Spain, fought
for control of the region, which
was finally ceded to Portugal in
1295. Continued disputes have
left the legacy of a chain of
watchtowers and a peppering of
fortresses across these hills. One
of the most remote, the deserted
fort at Noudar, was built in 1346,
but even in this isolated corner,
evidence of pre-Roman
habitation has been uncovered.
On the border at Barrancos,
an incomprehensible mix of
Spanish and Portuguese is
spoken. A speciality here
is the barrancos ham made
from the local black pigs.
ALENTEJO
Beja
317
Dona Leonor
Largo da Conceio. Tel 284 323 351.
Open TueSun. Closed public hols. &
318
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Environs
On a hill just to the east of
Santiago do Cacm lies the site
of the Roman city of Mirbriga.
Excavations, still in progress,
have uncovered a forum, two
temples, thermal baths and a
circus which had seating for
25,000 spectators.
T Mirbriga
Sines
Environs
North and south of Sines are
attractive beaches. About 10 km
(6 miles) south, Porto Covo is a
picturesque village with an old
fort above a cove beach. A little
further to the south and a short
boat ride offshore is the low
hump of Ilha do Pessegueiro,
Peach Tree Island. Treeless and
windswept, with the ruins of a
fort, the little island is rather less
romantic than it sounds.
More appealing are two seablue lagoons, Lagoa de Santo
Andr and Lagoa de Melides,
set in a long stretch of sandy
coast about 20 km (12 miles)
north of Sines. The lagoons
attract a commune of campers,
but vast open spaces remain for
seekers of privacy.
The calm, sunny face of the sandy coast near Vila Nova de Milfontes
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
To the south about 10 km
(6 miles) is the unspoilt beach
of Almograve, backed by
impressive cliffs.
ALENTEJO
319
Zambujeira do Mar
Road map C7. * 1,000. @ n Rua
da Escola (283 961 144).
Mrtola
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
321
ALGARVE
Enclosed by ranges of hills to the north, the Algarve has a
climate, culture and scenery very different from the rest of
Portugal. Its stunning coastline and year-round mild
weather, maintained by warm sea and air currents from
nearby North Africa, make it one of the most popular
holiday destinations in southern Europe.
The Algarves fertile soil and strategic
headlands and rivers have attracted visitors
since the time of the Phoenicians. Five
centuries of Arab rule, from AD 711, left a
legacy that is still visible in the regions
architecture, lattice chimneys, azulejos,
orange groves and almond trees. Place
names beginning with Al are also of Moorish
origin; Al-Gharb (the West) denoted the
western edge of the Islamic empire.
When the Algarve was reclaimed by the
Christians in 1249, the Portuguese rulers
designated themselves kings of Portugal
and of the Algarves, emphasizing the
regions separateness from the rest of the
country. It was the Algarve, however, that
shot Portugal to prominence in the 15th
century, when Henry the Navigator (see
p53) is said to have set up a school of
navigation at Sagres, and launched the age
of exploration from these southern shores.
Colourful ceramic plates for sale outside a local craft shop in Alte
Boats moored o the coast of the Algarve
322
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Odemira
Praia de
Odeceixe
Odeceixe
Beja
de
R i b e i ra
Se
i xe
Rogil
ca
lou
do
a
rr o
Se ha
in
sp
Barragem da
Bravura
Portela
de Messines
Porto de
Lagos
Vidigal
SILVES
Tunes
Odixere
Algoz
PORTIMO
Lagoa
ALVOR
Praia de
Castelejo
LAGOS
Budens
Ferragudo
Carvoeiro
Burgau
0 kilometres
CABO DE SO VICENTE
Alcantarilha
0 miles
Senhora
da Rocha
10
5
SAGRES
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Minor railway
National border
Regional border
Ferreiras
Praia da
Rocha
Luz
Figueira
So Bartolomeu
de Messines
Bensafrim
E
Pedralva
VILA DO
BISPO
rade
de A
ira
be
i
R
Funcho
Barragem
do Arade
de
Bordeira
Caldas de
Monchique
Casais
Alfambras
Carrapateira
Baio
Velho
e
MONCHIQUE
Od
de
a Barragem do
SERRA DE MONCHIQ U E
Marmelete
ALJEZUR
Praia de
Arrifana
So Marcos
da Serra
Foz do Farelo
Ri
be
ir
Carriagem
Praia de
Monte Clrigo
ALBUFEIRA
ALGARVE
323
Sights at a Glance
1 Aljezur
t Loul
2 Serra de Monchique
y Estoi
3 Monchique
u Faro pp33234
4 Vila do Bispo
i Olho
5 Cabo de So Vicente
6 Sagres
Formosa
7 Lagos
p Tavira
8 Alvor
a Cacela Velha
9 Portimo
0 Silves
d Castro Marim
q Albufeira
f Alcoutim
w Alte
e Vilamoura
r Almancil
Mrtola
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Balurco da Baixo
Ri
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Furnazinhas
Corte Joo
Marques
Foz de Odeleite
Cachopo
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a de Odel
Ribeir
Se
r ra
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Ca
Aguas
lde
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Frias
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Peralva
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CASTRO MARIM
Estorninhos
Querena
Aldeia da Tr
VILA REAL DE
SANTO ANTNIO
Palheirinhos
Alportel
So Brs
de Alportel
FARO
VILAMOURA
Sevilla
Barranco Velho
Boliqueime
Odeleite
Feiteira
Benam
ALTE
o Gua di a na
Guerreiros do Rio
pana
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eira
Rib
Ameixial
ALCOUTIM
Pereiro
Martim Longo
Barrada
Beja
Gies
o
a sc
eV
Santa
Catarina
LOUL
Santa Brbara
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ESTI
ALMANCIL
Quarteira
Santo
Estvo
Luz
Pereiro
Moncarapacho
So Joo da
Venda
Pecho
Fuseta
OLHO
Quinta do Lago
FARO
Praia de
Faro
PAR QUE
N AT
A
UR
Monte
Gordo
Conceio
RI
TAVIRA
CACELA
VELHA
A
OS
RM
O
F Ilha de
Tavira
Ilha de
D AArmona
Ilha de
Culatra
Cabo de
Santa Maria
Getting Around
The A22 (E1) runs from Lagos to Spain and
has relieved the N125, which can become
congested in summer. Roads branch off to
beaches, coastal towns and inland villages.
A frequent but slow rail service connects
the main towns, but stations are
sometimes far from the centre. Reliable
buses link coastal resorts and inland
towns, though progress can be slow.
324
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Aljezur
Monchique
ALGARVE
Environs
A delightful spa, 6 km (4 miles)
south, Caldas de Monchique is
set in the foothills of the Serra in
peaceful wooded surroundings.
The hot, curative waters have
attracted the ailing since Roman
times, and even though Joo II
died soon after taking them in
1495, their reputation has
remained undiminished. In the
summer, people come to be
treated for skin, digestive and
rheumatic complaints. As well
as the wholesome spring water,
the bars here offer the local
firewater, medronho.
The shady main square has
a large, attractive handicraft
centre and there are some
pretty walks in the woods.
4
Vila do Bispo
325
Flowers of the
Western Algarve
The remote headlands of Cabo
de So Vicente and Sagres are
renowned in botanical circles
for their flowers, which put on
a strikingly colourful and
aromatic display from February
to May. The climate, underlying
rock and comparative isolation
of these headlands have given
an intriguing, stunted
appearance to the local
vegetation. There is a great
array of different species,
including cistuses, squills, an
endemic sea pink, junipers,
lavenders, narcissi, milkvetches and many other
magnificent plants.
326
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
ALGARVE
327
R Santo Antnio
Formosinho
Rua General Alberto Silveira. Tel 282
762 301. Open TueSun. Closed
public hols. &
Ochre sandstone rocks on the sheltered beach of Praia de Dona Ana, Lagos
Environs
The promontory, called the
Ponta da Piedade, sheltering
the bay of Lagos to the south
has a series of wonderful rock
formations, caves and calm,
transparent waters. Accessible
by road and sea, and most
spectacular at sunset, this area is
not to be missed. The prettiest
beach is Praia de Dona Ana,
25 minutes walk from the
centre of town, but Praia do
Camilo, further round to the tip
of the promontory, may be less
crowded. The long Meia Praia
stretches for 4 km (2 miles) east
of Lagos; a regular bus service
leaves from the centre of town.
A 10-km (6-mile) drive due
north of Lagos leads to the
huge Barragem de Bravura
reservoir. It is peaceful and
Church of Divino Salvador overlooking the whitewashed houses and the harbour at Alvor
Alvor
328
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Portimo
E Museu de Portimo
Environs
Just 3 km (2 miles) south lies
Portimos touristic neighbour,
Praia da Rocha, a series of
sandy coves among protruding
red and ochre rocks. At its east
end is the Fortaleza de Santa
Catarina, a 16th-century castle
built to protect Portimo and
Silves. From here there is a
superb view of the beach
backed by 70-m (230-ft) cliffs,
and overlooked by hotels.
0
Silves
The castle and town of Silves rising above a fertile valley of orange groves
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
ALGARVE
329
R S
Alte
330
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Vilamoura
Almancil
Loul
ALGARVE
331
Estoi
332
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Faro
Orange trees in front of the 18th-century bishops palace along the Largo da S
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
ALGARVE
333
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D7. * 55,000.
n Avenida 5 de Outubro
(289 803 604). ( daily.
_ 7 Sep: Dia da Cidade.
Transport
k 5 km (3 miles) SW. Largo da
Estao. @ Avenida da Repblica.
E Museu Martimo
E Museu Municipal
R U A A B O I M A S C E N S O
R.
S
MA OTT
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LARGO
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ND
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CASTILHO
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PT
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ES
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RA
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0 Museu Etnogrfico
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1
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GE
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RE
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ILO
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R. T BRAG
DE
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LARGO DO
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IA
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BO
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RUA DO
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ATA
DA
UA
NS
RU
RUA
SEB DE S.
AST
IO
R U A IV
E
Airport
5 km (3 miles)
HO
Igreja de So
Francisco
Nossa
Senhora do
P da Cruz
334
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Exploring Faro
The lively centre of Faro along
Rua de Santo Antnio is a stylish,
pedestrianized area full of shops,
bars and restaurants. Between
here and the Largo do Carmo are
some fine 18th-century buildings,
such as the Palcio Bivarin. The
early morning market on Largo
de S Carneiro, to the north,
offers fresh produce, clothing
and local crafts. From here, a
brisk walk uphill to the Ermida
de Santo Antnio do Alto brings
a panorama of Faro with the sea
and saltpans to the south.
E Museu Regional do
Algarve
R So Pedro
Largo de So Pedro.
Tel 289 805 473. Open MonSat.
Olho
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
ALGARVE
335
Environs
At the eastern end of the quay,
beyond the market, boats take
you out to the islands of Armona
(15 min), Culatra (30 min) and
Farol (45 min). These flat, narrow
bars of sand provide shelter to
the town, and excellent sandy
beaches for visitors, particularly
on the ocean side. The islands
are part of the Parque Natural
da Ria Formosa.
Parque Natural
da Ria Formosa
o
336
SOUTHERN PORTUGAL
Tavira
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Environs
The sandy, offshore Ilha de
Tavira, provides excellent
swimming. A popular resort in
summer, you can reach it by
ferry from Quatro guas.
Cacela Velha
ALGARVE
337
s Vila Real de
Santo Antnio
Road map D7. * 10,000. @
n Avenida Marginal, Monte Gordo
(281 544 495).
Alcoutim
Castro Marim
PORTUGALS
ISLANDS
Introducing Portugals
Islands
340345
Madeira
346363
The Azores
364377
340
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
THE AZORES
MADEIRA
C or vo
Vila do Corvo
Santa Cruz
das Flores
F l o res
G r a ci o sa
THE AZORES
Luz
(See pp364377)
So Jorge
F a la l
Horta
Velas
Madalena
Calheta
Piedade
P i co
I N T R O D U C I N G P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Camacha
Po r t o S a n t o
Ponta
Porto Moniz
MADEIRA
(See pp346363)
So Jorge
Ponta do
Pargo
So Vicente
Madeira
Ponta
Delgada
Porto da Cruz
Curral
das Freiras
Ponta do Sol
Canial
Machico
Ribeira
Brava
Camacha
Funchal
Ilhas
D e se r t a s
0 kilometres
0 miles
20
10
Terceira
Praia da Vitria
Santa
Barbara
Angra do
Herosmo
0 kilometres
0 miles
S o M igue l
Mosteiros
Ponta
Delgada
Nordeste
Vila Franca
do Campo
50
25
341
342
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Madeiras Gardens
The sub-tropical climate
and mixture of
indigenous and imported
plants combine to
produce gardens that are
the envy of horticulturalists all over the
world. Gardens such as
the Botanical Gardens in Funchal
(see p350) are awash with colour
all year. Here are some of the
most striking plants that can
be found in Madeiras gardens.
Magnolia in bloom
Hottentot fig is a
coastal, groundcover plant
originating from
South Africa.
Lampranthus spectabilis
is a South African plant
which flowers on the coast
between May and July.
I N T R O D U C I N G P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
343
Cymbidium orchids
from Southeast
Asia thrive
when they
are grown in
sheltered sites
and in partial
shade.
Ladys slipper
orchids come in
a variety of colours
and are great
favourites among
Madeiras more
serious gardeners.
Camellia thrives
in partial shade
and grows to
the size of
a small
tree.
Protea cynaroides
comes from South
Africa where it is
known as the
Cape artichoke
or king protea.
High Ground
Terraced Plantations
Isoplexis sceptrum,
known as the yellow
foxglove, is a flowering
shrub native to Madeira.
Prickly juniper is
a hardy, spiny
evergreen shrub
covered in tough
red berries.
Pawpaws produce
fruit all year round. The
plant originates from
South America.
344
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Faial
Pico
So Jorge
So Miguel has several
spectacular water-filled
calderas and hot springs.
Santa Maria
Volcanic Resources
of the Azores
The dramatic formation of the
Azores has left the islands with
abundant natural resources. Hot
springs, strong building materials
and, eventually, fertile soil, are all
the result of the ongoing volcanic
activity. A wet, temperate climate
gradually breaks down the volcanic
rocks into fertile soils. Older soils
support luxuriant vegetation and
are excellent for arable farming, but
younger soils, like those found on
Pico, support little agriculture yet.
Furnas, on So Miguel, is an
area of sulphur and hot mud
springs used for bathing and
for medicinal purposes.
I N T R O D U C I N G P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
345
Vent
Exploding
magma
Volcanos
collapsing
cone
Enlarged
magma
chamber
Caldera lake
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
347
MADEIRA
Madeira is a green, subtropical paradise of volcanic origin, its soils formed from
lava and ash, completely different in character from the Portuguese mainland.
Blessed with an equable daytime temperature that varies only by a few degrees
either side of 20 C (68 F), the island has an all-year-round appeal.
Madeira is a mere dot in the Atlantic Ocean,
608 km (378 miles) from Morocco and nearly
1,000 km (621 miles) from Lisbon. Despite
this, Madeira and Porto Santo appear on a
Genoese map of 1351, so there is no doubt
that sailors had long known about the
islands. They remained unclaimed, however,
until 1418, when Joo Gonalves Zarco was
blown out into the Atlantic by violent
storms while exploring the coast of Africa.
Zarco found safe harbour in Porto Santo,
set up the Portuguese flag and returned
to Lisbon. A year later he returned on a
voyage of discovery sponsored by Henry
the Navigator (see p53). Early in 1420, after
a winter on Porto Santo, he set sail for the
mist-shrouded land on the horizon. He
found a beautiful, thickly wooded island
(madeira means wood), with abundant
fresh water. Within seven years the
island had attracted a pioneer colony
and the early settlers exploited the
Triangular-shaped houses, typical of the town of Santana on the north coast of Madeira
One of the waterfalls at Vinte e Cinco Fontes (25 Springs), in the west of Madeira
348
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Exploring Madeira
Funchal is the islands capital and the only town of any
size. This is where most of the museums and historic
buildings are to be found, as well as the best hotels,
restaurants and shops. Most of Madeiras agricultural
crops are grown along the sunny, prosperous south
coast. The cooler, wetter north side has fewer settlements
and more cattle. Many parts of the mountainous and
volcanic interior remain wild, and some are accessible
only on foot. Pico Ruivo, the highest peak on the island,
is a favourite destination for walkers.
Ponta do
Tristo
PORTO MONIZ
Santa
Lamaceiros
Achadas
da Cruz
Seixal
Ribeira da Vaca
Boaventura
Ri
i ra
da
n
Fa
Remal
1320m
la
ERRA
AS
LD
PA
Prazeres
ada
Lombo
Q u e br
dos Reis Ch da
Jardim do Mar
Lombo
CALHETA
Arco da Calheta
0 kilometres
0 miles
5
3
d a s Te
r cas
Pal do Mar
Ginjas
Pico Ruivo
do Pal
1640m
RABAAL
WALKS
Raposeira
SO VICENTE
Madalena
do Mar
Bica da
Cana
1620m
bo do
Mou ro
ra
ne
Ponta do
Pesqueiro
osei
da R
Ja
Faj da Ovelha
eo
C ab
al
Candelria
Ponta do Sol
Lameiros
Achada
da Madeira
Casado
1725m
Boca da
Encumeada
1007m
Faj dos
Cardos
Pico Grande
1657m
Serra de gua
CURRAL
DAS FREIRAS
Lom
Senhora
do Amparo
Mo
Pes nta
seg do
ue do
iro s
s
be
Ponta do
Pargo
AT L A N T I C
O C E A N Ponta Delgada
Ribeira da Janela
Taba
RIBEIRA BRAVA
Jardim
da Serra
Lugar
da Serra
So Joo
Campanrio
Quinta Grande
CMARA DE
LOBOS
Getting Around
MADEIRA
349
PORTO SANTO
Ilhu
das Cenouras
Ilhu da Fonte
da Areia
Serra de Dentro
Camacha
Ponta
do Varadouro Farrobo
THE AZORES
Serra de
Fora
Ponta
dos Ferreiros
MADEIRA
Tanque
Campo de Cima
Ponta da Gal
Vila
Baleira
Ilhu
de Ferro
Ilhu
de Cima
Cabeo da Ponta
Ponta
Zimbralinho
Ponta
da Calheta
AT L A N T I C
OCEAN
Ilhu de Baixo
ou da Cal
Ponta de
So Jorge
So Jorge
Ponta de Santana
Achada da Cruz
Ribeira
Funda
SANTANA
Ilha
Achada
do Marques
Faial
Queimadas
Pico Canrio
1592m
Cruzinhas
Referta
PICO RUIVO
Pico das Torres
1851m
Balces
860m
PICO DO
ARIEIRO
Pico da Coroa
738m
CANIAL
Ribeira Seca
MONTE
So
Gonalo
FUNCHAL
Tera
guas
Mansas
Sights at a Glance
CAMACHA
Santa Cruz
Gaula
So Joo
de Latro
QUINTA DO
PALHEIRO FERREIRO
Garajau
MACHICO
gua de Pena
Joo Ferino
Choupana
Pico Alto
1129m
Ponta de
So Loureno
Prainha
Maroos
RIBEIRO
Ribeira
FRIO
de Machico
Santo Antnio
da Serra
Esteios
1346m
So
Martinho
Ponta do
Espigo Amarelo
Maiata
Portela
Passo de Poiso
1400m
Santo
Antnio
Porto da Cruz
Achada do
Teixeira
Canio
Canio de Baixo
Ponta da Oliveira
1 Funchal pp35053
2 Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro
3 Monte
4 Camacha
5 Machico
6 Canial
7 Santana
8 Ribeiro Frio
9 Pico do Arieiro
0 Pico Ruivo
q Curral das Freiras
w Pal da Serra
r So Vicente
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
t Porto Moniz
y Calheta
u Ribeira Brava
i Cmara de Lobos
o Porto Santo
Path
Summit
350
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Street-by-Street: Funchal
So Pedro
church
The Museu
Municipal
houses an
aquarium and
is a favourite
with children.
R UA D A S P R E TA S
RUA
DO
SUR
DO
RU
CA
DA
RR
EIR
RU
A
AV
S.
EN
FR
ID
AN
CI
SC
O
N
VE
ID
RI
AG
RU
R
. A
DA
0 metres
0 yards
ONTES
S F
50
50
Yacht Marina
Lined with seafood
restaurants, the yacht
marina on Avenida do Mar
is ideal for an evening stroll.
The sea wall around the
marina offers good views.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Avenida
do Mar
FUNCHAL
Cmara Municipal
Funchals city hall is an
imposing 18th-century
mansion with a fountain in its
courtyard depicting Leda
and the Swan.
Inside, a small
museum traces
the history of
Funchal in
photographs.
351
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 120,000.
n Avenida Arriaga 16 (291 211
902). ( MonSat. _ Apr/May:
Flower Festival; mid-Sep: Wine
Festival; 31 Dec: Fireworks.
Museu Municipal de Histria
Natural: Rua da Mouraria 31.
Tel 291 229 761. Open 10am
6pm MonFri, noon6pm Sat,
Sun & public hols. &
Transport
k Madeira International Airport
18 km (11 miles) NE. g
@ Avenida do Mar.
RU
A
JO
O
TA
VI
RA
RU
ZA
RC
RU
LJ
BE
. Praa do Municpio
Contrasting black and white
stones pave the attractive
municipal square. On the
northeast side of the square
is the Cmara Municipal.
AL
DA
F N
DE
GA
Bus
station
Palcio
do Governo
Regional
The Alfndega Velha (Old
Customs House) was built in
1477 and is now home to the
islands regional parliament.
Key
Suggested route
For map symbols see back flap
Rua do Aljube
Alongside the S, flower sellers
in traditional costumes offer a
colourful array of exotic flowers.
. S
So Tiago (St James) is one of
many gilded figures that adorn
the wonderfully carved wooden
choir stalls in Funchals 15thcentury cathedral (see p352).
352
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Exploring Funchal
MADEIRA
353
Wine Lodge
Av Arriaga 28. Tel 291 740 110. Open
10am6:30pm MonSat (to 1pm Sat).
Closed pub hols. & 8 compulsory.
theoldblandywinelodge.com
2 Quinta do
Palheiro Ferreiro
Stio do Balanal, So Gonalo. Tel 291
793 044. @ Open 9:30am4:30pm
daily. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. &
palheiroestate.com
354
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Camacha
MADEIRA
355
Madeira Wine
In the 16th century, ships stopping at
Funchal would take on barrels of local
wine. This unfortified Madeira often
spoiled during the voyage, so shippers
started adding spirit to make it better. The
wine now seemed to improve after a long,
hot voyage, and quality Madeira began to
be sent on round trips as an alternative to
maturing it in Funchals lodges. This
expensive method was replaced with the
estufa system, still very much in use today.
Large volumes of wine are heated to
between 30 and 50C for a period of three
Sercial is made
from white
grapes grown
at heights up
to 1,000 m
(3,280 ft). Goodquality Sercial is aged for at
least 10 years, giving it its
amber colour. A dry wine, it
is mostly drunk as an aperitif
or with soup, and is best
served chilled.
Verdelho
grapes are
grown in cool
vineyards at
lower heights
than the Sercial.
This medium-dry tawny wine
is also drunk as an aperitif.
Sweeter than Sercial, Verdelho
goes well with a slice of
Madeira cake (invented by the
English for just this purpose).
Malmsey, the
most celebrated
Madeira, is made
from Malvasia
grapes grown in
sunny vineyards
backed by cliffs, where the heat
absorbed by the rock by day
warms the grapes by night. The
result is a rich dark wine drunk
as an after-dinner digestive.
356
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Machico
Canial
Environs
The easternmost tip of Madeira,
the Ponta de So Loureno, is
characterized by dramatic wavebattered cliffs plunging 180 m
(590 ft) to the Atlantic. Walkers
are attracted by footpaths
which meander from one
clifftop to another, with wild
flowers growing in sheltered
hollows. The treeless landscape
contrasts totally with the islands
wooded interior.
On the road from Canial to
Ponta de So Loureno, look
out for the signpost to the bay
of Prainha, Madeiras only
naturally sandy beach.
MADEIRA
357
Santana
Pico do Arieiro
Ribeiro Frio
360
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Pico Ruivo
Pal da Serra
MADEIRA
Rabaal Walks
361
L e v ad
Levada
da
No
Ra
ermelh
do
ha V
da
Rib
eira
Le
a
ad
do Ri
sc
da
Ja
ne
do
Ra
al
Le
onte
ad
va
5F
a
al
aN
ova
Lev
d as 2
5 25 Fontes
A 30-minute walk brings
you to a mossy, fern-hung
area with a main cascade
and many smaller ones.
va
oc
la
4 Ribeira da Janela
Levad
ad
as
25 Fontes
Leva
da
Pal Da
Serra
Ris
co
1 Rabaal
3 Risco Waterfall
0 metres
0 yards
250
250
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
362
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
So Vicente
} Grutas e Centro do
Vulcanismo de So Vicente
Sitio do P do Passo. Tel 291 842 404.
Open daily. Closed 25 Dec. grutas
ecentrodovulcanismo.com.
Porto Moniz
Calheta
Environs
The 15th-century chapel at
Loreto, 2 km (1 mile) east of
Calheta, has a Manueline portal
and geometrically patterned
ceiling. Outside Estreito da
Calheta, 3 km (2 miles)
northwest of Calheta, is Lombo
dos Reis. Here the Capela dos
Reis Magos (Chapel of the Three
Kings) has a lively 16th-century
Flemish altar carving of the
Adoration of the Magi.
MADEIRA
363
Porto Santo
* 5,000. ~ g n Avenida Dr
Ribeira Brava
Cmara de Lobos
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
365
THE AZORES
Far out in the Atlantic, 1,600 km (900 miles) west of Portugals mainland, the
nine islands of the Azores are known for their spectacular volcanic scenery,
abundant flora and peaceful way of life. Once wild and remote, they are now
a popular destination for travellers who enjoy walking, sailing and getting
away from it all.
Santa Maria was the first island discovered
by the Portuguese in 1427. The
archipelago was named after the buzzards
the early explorers saw flying overhead
and mistook for goshawks (aores). The
islands were settled during the 15th
and 16th centuries by colonists from
Portugal and Flanders who introduced
cattle, maize and vines.
The Azores have profited from their
far-flung position in the Atlantic. Between
1580 and 1640, when Portugal came
under Spanish rule (see pp54 5), the
ports of Angra do Herosmo on Terceira
and Ponta Delgada on So Miguel
prospered from the trade with the
New World. In the 19th century the
islands were a regular port of call for
American whaling ships. During the
20th century they have benefited from
their use as stations for transatlantic
cable companies, meteorological
observatories and military air bases.
Small shing boats on the quayside at Lajes do Pico on the southern coast of Pico
Lush vegetation around the Lagoa das Sete Cidades (Seven Cities Lagoon)
366
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Ponta Delgada
Faj
Grande
Santa Cruz
da Graciosa
Santa Cruz
das Flores
Fajzinha
Praia
FLORES
GRACIOSA
Luz
Lajes
Pico da Velha
495m
FAIAL
Sights at a Glance
1 So Miguel pp3689
Capelo
2 Santa Maria
3 Terceira
4 Graciosa
5 So Jorge
6 Pico
Velas
Cedros
Horta
SO JORGE
Manadas
Calheta
Cabeo Gordo
1045m
Topo
Madalena
Pico Alto
2350m
Candelaria
Piedade
So Mateus
PICO
Santo
Anto
So Roque do Pico
Lajes do Pico
7 Faial
8 Flores
9 Corvo
25
0 kilometres
0 miles
10
Key
Major road
Minor road
Motorway
Scenic route
Summit
THE AZORES
367
Getting Around
So Miguel, Santa Maria, Pico, Faial and Terceira have international
airports, and the local airline, SATA, flies between all the islands.
A year-round ferry service runs between Faial, Pico and So Jorge;
in the summer, it also connects with Terceira (www.transmacor.pt).
Atlanticoline connects all the islands, including a special service
between Corvo and Flores. All ferry services are subject to the
weather. Bus services on the islands are designed for the locals and
therefore not always practical for tourists. Car hire is more convenient and available on all islands except Corvo. (See also p447.)
THE AZORES
MADEIRA
Biscoitos
Serra de Santa Brbara
1022m
Praia da Vitria
Santa Brbara
So Mateus
Angra do Herosmo
TERCEIRA
Sete Cidades
Capelas
Porto
Formoso
Ribeira
Grande
Candelaria
Nordeste
Furnas
Ponta
Delgada
Povoao
Lagoa
Vila Franca
do Campo
SO MIGUEL
SANTA MARIA
Anjos
Vila do Porto
Santa
Brbara
368
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
So Miguel
With its historic maritime capital, rich green fields and dramatic
volcanic scenery, this ilha verde (green island) provides a
rewarding introduction to the Azores. The largest and most
populated of the archipelagos nine islands, So Miguel is
65 km (40 miles) long and was originally two separate islands.
The capital, Ponta Delgada, is a good base from which to make
day tours of the rugged coast or visit the volcanic crater lakes
and steaming thermal springs in the interior of the island.
The 18th-century city gates leading onto Ponta Delgadas central square
Ponta Delgada
Lined with many impressive
churches, convents and trim
white houses, the cobbled
streets of the Azorean capital
recall the wealthy days when
the port was a crucial staging
post between Europe and the
New World (see pp523). Its
hub is the arcaded Praa de
Gonalo Velho Cabral, named
after the first captain-donee
of the island in 1444, which
looks out onto the seafront.
It is dominated by three
imposing arches, dating from
1783, that once marked the
entrance to the city. To the
north, in Largo da Matriz, stands
the parish church of So
Sebastio. Founded in 1533 it
has a graceful Manueline portal
intricately carved in limestone.
The sacristy is decorated with
azulejo panels and beautiful
17th-century furniture made of
jacaranda wood from Brazil.
A short walk west lies the
Praa 5 de Outubro, a shaded,
tree-lined square overlooked
by the Forte de So Brs. This
Renaissance fortress, built on a
spur overlooking the sea, was
greatly restored in the 19th
century. Also on the square,
the immense Convento da
Mosteiros
Sete Cidades
CALDEIRA DAS SETE
J
VISTA DO
REI
Ponta
Delgada
Key
E Museu Carlos Machado
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Capelas
Main road
Other road
THE AZORES
369
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Practical Information
* 138,000. n Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada
(296 308 625). _ 5th Sun after
Easter: Santo Cristo dos Milagres
(Ponta Delgada); Festas do
Esprito Santo (see p372).
visitazores.com
Transport
k 3 km (2 miles) W of Ponta
Delgada. g @ Avenida Infante
Dom Henrique, Ponta Delgada.
Santana
Ribeira Grande
Porto
Formoso
Nordeste
J
LAGOA DO
FOGO
Furnas
MIRADOURO DA MADRUGADA
Remdios
Povoao
Lagoa
gua de Pau
Ribeira Quente
Vila Franca do Campo
MIRADOURO DE SOSSEGO
0 kilometres
0 miles
10
5
370
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Terceira
* 56,000. k 3 km (2 miles) NW
of Praia da Vitria. g Angra do
Herosmo, Praia da Vitria. @ Avenida
Santa Maria
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
Angra do Herosmo
This attractive and historic
town was declared a UNESCO
World Heritage site in 1983, in
recognition of the strategic role
the port has played in the
Atlantic. For over three centuries
the town was a stopover point
on the routes between Europe,
America and Africa. It was here
in 1499 that Vasco da Gama (see
p110) buried his brother Paulo
after their pioneering journey
to India, and in the early 17th
century its harbour glittered
with Spanish fleets returning
laden with treasure from the
THE AZORES
371
372
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
THE AZORES
Graciosa
E Museu da Graciosa
So Jorge
373
So Jorge is a mountainous
island that stretches for 55 km
(35 miles) but is only 8 km
374
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Pico
* 14,000. ~ 8 km (5 miles) E of
Madalena. g Madalena. @ Avenida
Machado Serpa, Madalena. n Gare
THE AZORES
375
Espao Talassa
376
P O R T U G A L S I S L A N D S
Transatlantic yachts moored in the marina at Horta, Faial, with the pointed summit of Pico in the distance
7
Faial
* 15,000. k 10 km (6 miles) SW of
Horta. g Horta. @ Rua Vasco da
Gama, Horta. n Rua Vasco da
Gama, Horta (292 292 237). _
Horta
Stretching around a wide bay,
Faials capital has been a convenient anchorage for caravels,
clippers and sea planes over
the centuries. Captain Cook
commented on Hortas fine
houses and gardens when he
called here in 1775. Today, visiting
crews crossing between
the Caribbean and
Mediterranean paint a
calling card on the
quayside and celebrate
their safe passage in
Peters Caf Sport, which
also organizes whaleand dolphin-watching
excursions (see pp3745)
in the waters around the
Barren ash-covered volcanic landscape at Capelinhos,
island. In the upstairs
the westernmost point of Faial
rooms of the caf, an
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp38695 and pp398415
E Centro de Interpretao do
Vulco dos Capelinhos
Farol dos Capelinhos. Tel 292 200 470.
Open 10am7pm TueFri, 11am6pm
Sat, Sun & hols. 8
THE AZORES
377
Flores
Corvo
TRAVELLERS
NEEDS
Where to Stay
380395
396415
Shopping in Portugal
416419
422427
380
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Portugal offers a wide range of places
to stay, from luxury hotels and restored
palaces to hostels, self-catering apartments
and cottages. The majority of hotels are in
popular destinations such as Lisbon and
Oporto and on the Algarve and Estoril coasts.
Outside of the main towns, hotels are
relatively scarce, the available option being
accommodation in historic buildings, often
Types of Hotel
Lodgings in Portugal come
at all levels of comfort and
cost but are classified into
two main categories by the
Portuguese tourist authority:
hotels and penses. Hotels
are often purpose-built and
take up an entire building.
Penses are always housed in
shared premises, typically
occupying several floors of
a residential building.
All hotels and penses are
meant to provide meals. If they
offer only breakfast, their name
must have residencial added to
it, although not all residencials
offer breakfast. It is always best
to check, since there are many
lodgings that operate without
classification. Apart-hotels are
essentially hotels with selfcatering apartments, offering
most or all of the services that
normal hotels do.
Estalagens (estalagem in the
singular) are usually located
outside of city centres and
must have a garden. Albergarias
are the top category of penso,
Pousadas
Pousadas are a special type
of lodgings. They come in
four categories: historic, historic
design, charm and nature.
Historic pousadas are housed in
converted castles, convents
or palaces, and they offer
excellent service and luxury
accommodation, as well as a
memorable historical and
architectural ambience. The
other types of pousadas are
country inns offering a high
level of comfort and are often
located in scenic, sometimes
remote, areas. With the
exception of two mountain inns
in Madeira that use the word
pousada in their names, all
pousadas are state-owned and
run as a chain by Pestana.
Detailed information on these
can be found on the Pousadas
de Portugal website.
Swimming pool in a splendid setting at Tivoli Carvoeiro in Carvoeiro, Algarve (see p394)
The interior of the Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, Lisbon
Chain Hotels
Portugal has a range of chain
hotels in all price categories.
International luxury groups such
as Le Meridien and OrientExpress are well represented in
the Algarve
and Madeira. Smaller luxury
groups include Tivoli Hotels
with three hotels in Lisbon, two
in Sintra, five in the Algarve
and one in Coimbra and the
Pestana group, with ten hotels
in Madeira, nine in the Algarve,
and one each in Cascais, Lisbon,
Oporto and Sintra.
Lower down the scale, Choice
Hotels operates a number of
hotels in its Comfort Inn and
Quality Inn categories in the
Lisbon area and the north of the
country, while Best Western
and Sana Hotels have several
hotels countrywide. Ibis hotels
are also well represented, with
properties that are frequently
located outside cities and
towns, and they offer very
good value for money.
W H E R E TO S TAY
381
Gradings
The Portuguese tourist authority
rates hotels with one to five
stars, five being the top rating.
Penses are rated in four
categories: albergaria being
the top one, followed by First
to Third categories. Aparthotels
are rated from two to five stars.
These ratings are based on a
fixed set of criteria that covers
most aspects of comfort. They
do not, however, take into
account more subjective factors
such as view, atmosphere or the
professionalism of the staff.
It is important to remember
that hotels and penses are
rated separately from top to
bottom. In other words, a oneor two-star hotel will always
have a lower level of comfort
and lower prices than an
albergaria or even a firstcategory penso. The grading
system is quite strict, and all
rated establishments should
have a sign by the entrance
showing their rating.
Prices
In Portugal, establishments are
free to decide their own prices,
but all tariffs must be clearly
displayed at the reception and
in the rooms. The cost of the
room usually includes all taxes
and a continental breakfast.
Other meals are charged as
extras. It is sometimes possible
to bargain for a better rate,
especially outside the high
View from the Tivoli Palcio de Seteais, a luxury hotel in Sintra (see p388)
Bookings
It is advisable to reserve in
advance for all tourist areas
in high season. Much of the
accommodation in the Algarve
and around the Estoril coast is
mass-booked by tour operators.
For Madeira, Lisbon and Oporto,
382
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Rural Accommodation
The choices of lodgings in
Portugal is vastly enhanced
by the possibility of finding
accommodation in private
manors, country houses or on
farms, usually, but not always
situated in the countryside
and often with the owners
in residence.
This Turismo no Espao Rural
(Tourism in the Country) falls
into four main categories:
Turismo de Habitao (TH),
which are manors or palatial
houses of recognized historical
and/or architectural value,
including interiors and period
furnishings; Turismo Rural (TR),
country houses typical of their
region located in or near a
village; Agroturismo (AG), houses
that form part of a working
farm; and Casas de Campo (CC),
country houses that take in
guests, sometimes with the
owners in residence.
Most of the grandest Turismos
de Habitao are to be found in
the Minho region, in the north.
The Associao do Turismo de
Habitao (TURIHAB) is an
association that offers information and booking facilities.
The annual publication
Turismo no Espao Rural lists
all the houses. Bookings can
be made through agents or
directly with the owners.
Resort Accommodation
Most of the countrys resort
accommodation is situated
along the Algarve and the
Budget Accommodation
Pousadas de Juventude (youth
hostels) over 50 in total are
mainly dotted along the coast,
and include three each in the
Azores and Madeira. They are
open all through the year, but
advance booking is advisable
in the summer. A valid
Camping
and Caravanning
There are more than 100 official
campsites in Portugal, the
majority along the coast. The
largest is at Albufeira, in the
Algarve, but most are small
and quiet. Orbitur runs a
national chain of campsites.
Generally the quoted rate is for
the tent and per person; extra
charges for shower and parking
apply. International camping
cards that give discounts and
provide insurance are available
from various organizations.
Camping Portugal provides a
list of campsites and other
relevant information.
W H E R E TO S TAY
383
Children
Children are welcome pretty
much anywhere in Portugal,
and families are well catered
for. Some hotels give children
under eight years of age a
50 per cent discount on
accommodation and meals.
Travellers with
Disabilities
Recommended Hotels
The hotels listed on pages
38695 reflect the main types
of accommodation in Portugal.
Historic lodgings include restored
castles, convents, mansions and
palaces. Modern hotels range
from five-star properties to
budget chain hotels. Design
hotels are mostly stylish luxury
properties. Pensa/B&B are
generally inexpensive, familyrun options; residencials and
hostels are included in this
category. Self-catering
accommodation comprises
aparthotels, villas and cottages.
Rural lodgings usually have a
rustic location or ambience.
Throughout the listings, some
establishments are highlighted
as DK Choice these offer
something particularly special,
such as a beautiful location, a
building full of character, ecofriendly credentials, outstanding
service and amenities or a
combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Pousadas
Pestana
Tel 218 442 001.
pestana.com
Pousadas de Portugal
Tel 218 442 001.
pousadas.pt
Chain Hotels
Best Western
Tel 0845 776 7676 (UK).
Tel 800 839 361 (Portugal).
bestwestern.pt
Choice Hotels
Tel 800 277 277.
choicehotels.eu
Ibis
ibishotel.com
Le Meridien
starwoodhotels.com/
lemeridien/index.html
Budget
Accommodation
Travellers with
Disabilities
Hostelling
International
Accessible Portugal
sanahotels.com
Tivoli Hotels
hihostels.com/
Orient-Express
orient-express.com
Sana Hotels
Booking
Turismo de Portugal
Rua Ivone Silva, Lote 6,
1050-124 Lisbon.
Tel 211 140 200.
Fax 217 810 009.
visitportugal.pt
Rural
Accommodation
Turihab
Praa de Repblica,
4990-062 Ponte de Lima
Tel 258 741 672.
turihab.pt
Movijovem
Rua Lcio de Azevedo 27,
1600-146 Lisbon.
Tel 217 232 100
or 707 203 030.
movijovem.pt
Camping and
Caravanning
Camping Portugal
campingportugal.
org
Orbitur
Avenida da Boavista
1681-3,
4100-132 Oporto.
Tel 226 061 360.
orbitur.pt
Secretariado Nacional
de Reabilitao
Tel 217 929 500.
inr.pt
National Tourist
Agencies
Direco Regional de
Turismo dos Aores
Rua Ernesto Rebelo 14,
9900-112 Horta, Faial.
Tel 292 200 500.
visitazores.com
Direco Regional de
Turismo da Madeira
Avenida Arriaga 18,
9004-519 Funchal.
Tel 291 211 900.
visitmadeira.pt
384
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Pousada da Ria/ da
Murtosa Torreira near
the port of Aveiro has
20 bedrooms, most with
balconies overlooking the
lagoon of Ria de Aveiro
(see p390).
Valena do
Minho
Viana do
Castelo
MINHO
Braga
Oporto
Palcio
do Freixo
Espinho
Arouca
Torreira
Aveiro
gueda
Mealhada
Coimbra
Figueira
da Foz
Condeixa-a-Nova
Leiria
Ourm
Nazar
Alcobaa
bidos
Peniche
Lourinh
Santarm
ESTREMADURA
AND RIBATEJO
Vila Franca
de Xira
Queluz
Cascais
Lisbon THE
LISBON
COAST
Palmela
Setbal
Alccer do Sal
Torro
Grndola
Santiago
do Cacm
Sines
Vila Nova
de Milfontes
Pousada do Infante
occupies a spectacular
clifftop position in the
most southwesterly town of
Europe, Sagres. The terrace
restaurant of this purposebuilt pousada has
magnificent views over the
Atlantic Ocean (see p394).
Santa-Claraa-Velha
Aljezur
ALGARVE
Portimo
Albufeira
Sagres
W H E R E TO S TAY
385
Pousada de Santa
Marinha, housed in a
medieval monastery
near the city of
Guimares, is one of
Portugals most
impressive and historic
pousadas (see p392).
Montalegre
Bragana
Gers
Caniada
0 miles
Chaves
Amares
0 kilometres
50
25
Miranda
Guimares
Alij
Maro
Vila
Real
Meso
Frio
Penedono
Freixo de
Espada
Cinta
Sernancelhe
Pinhel
Trancoso
THE BEIRAS
Celorico da
Beira
Viseu
Guarda
Manteigas
Vila Pouca
da Beira
Belmonte
Covilh
Penamacor
Fundo
Monsanto
Castelo
Branco
Proena-a-Nova
Abrantes
Marvo
Crato
Portalegre
Ponte
de Sor
Mora
Campo
Maior
Sousel
Estremoz
Elvas
Vila Viosa
Arraiolos
vora
Alvito
Moura
Beja
Serpa
ALENTEJO
Castro
Verde
Mrtola
Almodvar
Odeleite
Alte
Tavira
Estoi
Faro
Pousada de So Francisco
is located in the heart of the
old Roman town of Beja at
the centre of the sun-baked
plains of the southern
Alentejo. The building
incorporates parts of a
former Franciscan convent,
dating back to the 13th
century. It was opened as a
pousada in 1994 (see p393).
386
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Where to Stay
Lisbon
Alfama
Alegria
Penso / B&B
Map 4 F1
Praa da Alegria 12, 1250-004
Tel 213 220 670
Penso / B&B
Map 7 C3
Costa do Castelo 74, 1100-179
Tel 218 854 070
alegrianet.com
Florescente
Penso / B&B
Map 7 A2
Rua das Portas de Santo Anto 99,
1150-226
Tel 213 426 609
ninhodasaguias.pai.pt
Solar do Castelo
Historic
Map 7 C3
Rua das Cozinhas 2 (ao Castelo),
1100-181
Tel 218 806 050
solardocastelo.com
Penso / B&B
Map 7 C3
Rua dos Douradores 161, 1100-205
Tel 218 878 941
A penso oering spotless rooms
with TVs and ensuite bathrooms.
Roma
Penso / B&B
Map 7 A2
Travessa da Glria 22A, 1250-118
Tel 213 460 557
residenciaroma.com
Design
Map 7 A4
Rua Anchieta 5, 3rd Floor, 1200-023
Tel 213 429 227
shiadohostel.com
residencialorescente.com
Historic
Map 7 B3
Praa Dom Pedro IV 30, 1100-200
Tel 213 219 030
almeidahotels.com
Modern
Map 4 F1
Avenida da Liberdade 180B, 1250-146
Tel 213 514 060
nh-hotels.pt
Modern
Map 7 A2
Rua da Glria 9, 1250-114
Tel 213 400 270
turimhoteis.com
Self-catering
Map 7 A2
Praa dos Restauradores 24, 1250-187
Tel 213 216 600
edenaparthotelvip.com
Historic
Map 5 C5
Avenida da Liberdade 189, 1250-141
Tel 213 522 618
viphotels.com
Design
Map 4 F1
Rua Castilho 11, 1269-072
Tel 213 106 000
The stylish lobby of the modernist
Britania hotel
Price Guide
Prices are based on one nights stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
up to 60
60150
over 150
Avenida Palace
Historic
Map 7 B3
Rua 1 de Dezembro 123, 1200-359
Tel 213 218 100
hotelavenidapalace.pt
Historic
Map 5 C5
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 17, 1150-278
Tel 213 155 016
heritage.pt
DK Choice
Internacional Design
Hotel
Design
Map 7 B3
Rua da Betesga 3, 1100-090
Tel 213 240 990
idesignhotel.com
Historic
Map 4 F1
Travessa do Salitre 7, 1269-066
Tel 213 218 218
heritage.pt
Modern
Map 7 B3
Praa Martim Moniz 2, 1100-341
Tel 218 842 000
hotel-mundial.pt
altishotels.com
Historic
Map 5 B5
Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca 88, 1099-039
Tel 213 811 400
fourseasons.com
W H E R E TO S TAY
387
Belm
Pestana Palace Hotel
Historic
Rua Jau 54, 1300-314
Tel 213 615 600
Map 2 F3
pestana.com
Further Aeld
Residencial Roxi
Penso / B&B
Map 6 E5
Avenida Almirante Reis 31, 1150-009
Tel 218 126 341
residencialroxi.com
Modern
Map 4 F1
Avenida da Liberdade 127, 1269-038
Tel 213 228 300
Design
Map 5 B4
Rua Castilho 149, 1099-034
Tel 213 818 700
Penso Londres
Penso / B&B
Map 4 F2
Rua Dom Pedro V 53, 1250-092
Tel 213 462 203
Tivoli Jardim
Modern
Map 4 F1
Rua J Csar Machado, 1250-135
Tel 213 591 000
As Janelas Verdes
Historic
Map 4 D3
Rua das Janelas Verdes 47, 1200-690
Tel 213 968 143
Tivoli Lisboa
Modern
Map 4 F1
Avenida da Liberdade 185, 1269-050
Tel 213 198 900
Design
Map 7 A4
Praa Luis de Cames 2, 1200-243
Tel 213 408 229
sotel-lisboa.com
tiara-hotels.com
tivolihotels.com
tivolihotels.com
Modern
Map 4 F3
Rua do Loreto 13, 1200-241
Tel 916 086 246
happyatchiado.com
Penso / B&B
Map 4 E2
Calada Estrela, 27, 1 1200-661
Tel 212 459 501
residencialvalentina.com
lisbondreamsguesthouse.com
pensaolondres.com.pt
asjanelasverdes.com
bairroaltohotel.com
Hotel do Chiado
Design
Map 7 B4
Rua Nova do Almada 114, 1200-290
Tel 213 256 100
Design
Map 5 C3
Avenida Lus Bvar 67, 1069-146
Tel 213 199 000
realhotelsgroup.com
Penso / B&B
Map 7 D1
Calada do Monte 39, 1170-250
Tel 218 866 002
albergariasenhoradomonte.com
tivolihotels.com
hoteldochiado.pt
Historic
Map 3 C3
Rua do Pau da Bandeira 4, 1249-021
Tel 213 949 494
Historic
Map C5
Castelo de Alccer do Sal, 7580-197
Tel 265 613 070
lapapalace.com
pousadas.pt
388
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
DK Choice
CASCAIS: Casa da Prgola
Historic
Map B5
Avenida Valbom 13, 2750-508
Tel 214 840 040
pergolahouse.com
Design
Map B5
Avenida Rei Humberto II de Itlia 7,
2750-461
Tel 214 823 490
farol.com.pt
Design
Map B5
Avenida Marginal 8554, 2754-536
Tel 210 060 600
cascaismirage.com
Penso / B&B
Map B5
Rua dos Pescadores, 42, 2825-325
Tel 212 900 017
residencialmaresol.com
Penso / B&B
Map B5
Calada da Baleia 10, 2655-238
Tel 261 860 000
hotelvilazul.com
Historic
Map B5
Rua da Particular, 2769-504
Tel 214 648 000
Popular with celebrities, this hotel
has classically styled, elegant
rooms and a gourmet restaurant.
SETBAL: Quinta da
So Filipe
Self-catering
Map C5
Quinta de So Filipe 3112, 2900-300
Tel 939 214 285
Modern villas in a converted
farmhouse overlook the Bay of
Sado. Free bicycle hire.
GUINCHO: Fortaleza
do Guincho
Historic
Map B5
Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642
Tel 214 870 491
Penso / B&B
Map B5
Rua Doutor Alfredo da Costa 52,
2710-523
Tel 925 970 131
Historical
Map B5
Rua Consigliri Pedroso 3840,
2710-550
Tel 219 105 500
palacioestorilhotel.com
guinchotel.pt
senhoradaguia.com
Historic
Map C5
Castelo de Palmela, 2950-317
Tel 212 351 226
pousadas.pt
espacoedla.pt
lawrenceshotel.com
Historic
Map B5
Avenida Barbosa do Bocage 8,
2710-517
Tel 219 233 200
tivolihotels.com
Historic
Map B5
Largo do Palcio Nacional, 2745-191
Tel 214 356 158
Estremadura and
Ribatejo
pousadas.pt
Modern
Map C5
Avenida 25 de Abril, 11, 2970-634
Tel 212 289 000
Penso / B&B
Map B4
Rua Ral Brando, Praia de Baleal,
Peniche, 2520-009
Tel 262 769 255
sesimbra.sanahotels.com
casadasmares2.com
Modern
Map B5
Rua de Lisboa 3, 2765-240
Tel 214 649 860
hotelalvorada.com
Historic
Map B5
Rua do Porto 1, 2765-271
Tel 214 684 461
hotelinglaterra.com.pt
The gourmet Grill Four Seasons restaurant in the Hotel Palcio, Estoril
W H E R E TO S TAY
389
BARRAGEM DO CASTELO DE
BODE: Estalagem Lago Azul
Rural
Map C4
Ferreira do Zzere, 2240-132
Tel 249 361 445
estalagemlagoazul.com
Modern
Map C4
Largo Mestre Afonso Domingues 6,
2440-102
Tel 244 765 260
mestreafonsodomingues.pt
Design
Map B4
Avenida Dom Manuel Figueira Freire
da Cmara, 2500-184
Tel 262 000 600
silvercoast.sanahotels.com
Historic
Map C4
Constncia, 2250-092
Tel 249 739 214
quinta-santabarbara.com
Modern
Map C4
Rua Gil Vicente 4, 2150-193
Tel 249 979 170
hotellusitano.com
Self-catering
Map C4
Rua Comisso da Iniciativa 13,
2410-098
Tel 244 860 460
eurosol.pt
Modern
Map C4
Praa Sousa Oliveira 71, 2450-159
Tel 262 569 160
marbravo.com
DK Choice
BIDOS: Casa dbidos
Historic
Map B4
Quinta de So Jos, 2510-135
T 262 950 924
Tel
casadobidos.com
Map B4
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map C4
Largo Joo Manso, Castelos, 2490-481
Tel 249 540 930
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map B4
Estrada Nacional 114, Number 16,
Atouguia da Baleia, 2525-023
Tel 262 750 647
casacastelo.com
Modern
Map C5
Estrada Nacional 1, Povos, 2600-246
Tel 263 276 670
continentalhotels.eu
Modern
Map B4
Avenida Dona Ins de Castro 1,
2510-451
Tel 262 905 100
The Beiras
praia-del-rey.com
Modern
Map E2
Rua da Muralha, 6350-112
Tel 271 574 283
hotelfortalezadealmeida.com
390
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Modern
Map D3
Urbanizao Quinta das Covas
Lote 34, 6300-389
Tel 271 238 285
hotellusitaniaparque.com
Modern
Map C3
Rua Lus Gomes de Carvalho 23,
3800-211
Tel 234 404 400
venezahotel.com
Modern
Map C3
Bico do Muranzel, Torreira, 3870-301
Tel 234 860 180
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map D3
Serra da Esperana Apartado 76,
6250-073
Tel 275 910 300
pousadas.pt
Penso / B&B
Map C3
Rua das Flores 18, 3000-442
Tel 239 835 175
casapombal.com
Self-catering
Map C3
Rua Simo de vora 11, 3000-386
Tel 964 326 556
coimbravintagelofts.com
Historic
Map C3
Rua Antnio Augusto Gonalves,
3041-901
Tel 239 802 380
quintadaslagrimas.pt
Historical
Map C3
Mata do Bussaco, 3050-261
Tel 231 937 970
CONDEIXAANOVA:
Pousada de Santa Cristina
Historic
Map C3
Rua Francisco Lemos, 3150-142
Tel 239 944 025
Modern
Map D4
Rua da Piscina s/n, 6000-776
Tel 272 349 280
Historic
Map C3
Tamengos, 3780-541
Tel 231 510 300
almeidahotels.com
pousadas.pt
DK Choice
MANTEIGAS: Casa das
Penhas Douradas
Design
Map D3
Penhas Douradas, 6260-200
Tel 275 981 045
casadaspenhasdouradas.pt
An environmentally friendly
hotel built of cork and wood, with
spectacular mountain views.
There is complimentary tea,
coee and cake, as well as free
bike and kayak hire. The spa
treatments use local herbs.
Service is impeccable.
MANTEIGAS: Pousada de
So Loureno
Rural
Map D3
Penhas Douradas, 6260-200
Tel 275 980 050
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map D3
Penalva do Castelo, 3550-126
Tel 232 642 222
casadainsua.pt
almeidahotels.com
VISEU: Casa da S
Historic
Map D3
Rua Augusta Cruz 12, 3500-088
Tel 232 468 032
casadase.net
CELORICO DA BEIRA:
Hotel Mira Serra
Rural
Map D3
Bairro de Santa Eufmia, 6360-323
Tel 271 742 604
Design
Map C3
Largo Coronel Galhardo 1, 3080-159
Tel 233 426 620
Modern
Map D3
Urbanizao Quinta do Bosque,
3510-020
Tel 232 420 000
melia.com
hmiraserra.com.pt
costadeprata.com
montebeloviseu.pt
W H E R E TO S TAY
Modern
Map E1
Av das Foras Armadas, Rotunda
Lavrador do Transmontano, 5300-063
Tel 273 302 520
ibis.com
Historic
Map E1
Estrada do Turismo, 5300-271
Tel 273 331 493
pousadas.pt
Modern
Map D1
Praa do Brasil, 5400-123
Tel 276 309 000
hoteispremium.com
Modern
Map D1
Rua do Sol 28, 5400-517
Tel 276 324 446
A friendly hotel with pleasant
rooms and a good breakfast.
ESPINHO: Praia Golfe
Modern
Rua 6, 4500-357
Tel 227 331 000
Map C2
praiagolfe.com
Design
Map C2
Rua Miguel Bombarda 222, 4050-377
Tel 224 964 313
gallery-hostel.com
Penso / B&B
Map C2
Rua da Alegria 172, 4000-034
Tel 222 080 261
saojosehotelporto.com
Penso / B&B
Map C2
Praa Guilherme Gomes Fernandes
35, 4050-293
Tel 222 085 831
vivacityporto.com
Modern
Map C2
Esplanada do Castelo 58, 4150-196
Tel 225 320 020
hotelboavista.com
Historic
Map C2
Rua da Fbrica 2729, 4050-247
Tel 222 073 140
hotelparis.pt
391
Design
Map C2
Rua Tenente Valadim 146, 4100-476
Tel 220 404 000
sheratonporto.com
Design
Map C2
Praa da Ribeira 1, 4050-513
Tel 223 402 300
pestana.com
DK Choice
OPORTO: The Yeatman
Design
Map C2
Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
T 220 133 100
Tel
the-yeatman-hotel.com
hoteldabolsa.com
PESO DA RGUA:
Hotel Rgua Douro
Modern
Map D2
Largo da Estao da CP, 5050-237
Tel 254 320 700
Modern
Map C2
Rua Ferreira Borges 101, 4050-253
Tel 222 026 768
hotelreguadouro.pt
Rural
Map D2
Quinta do Loureiro, 5100-758
Tel 254 960 000
delmdourohotel.com
Rural
Map D2
Lugar da Banduja, 5040-302
Tel 254 891 181
canilhas.com
392
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
quintadelarosa.com
quintadacalcada.com
Historic
Map D2
Largo da Fonte, 5085-201
Tel 254 730 190
Historic
Map C1
Calheiros, 4990-575
Tel 258 947 164
chanceleiros.com
pacodecalheiros.com
Historic
Map D1
Parque de Vidago, 5425-307
Tel 276 990 920
vidagopalace.com
Rural
Map D2
Timpeira, 5000-419
Tel 259 322 190
casadalevada.com
Modern
Map C1
Avenida General Carrilho da Silva
Pinto, 4715-380
Tel 253 144 000
melia.com
Minho
BARCELOS: Quinta de
Santa Comba
Historic
Map C1
Lugar de Crujes, 4755-536
Tel 253 832 101
stacomba.com
Historic
Map C1
Bom Jesus do Monte, 4715-056
Tel 253 603 400
hoteisbomjesus.pt
Modern
Map C1
Largo So Joo do Souto 131,
4700-326
Tel 253 263 160
hoteldonasoa.com
Design
Map C2
Rua Dom Joo I 40, 4810-422
Tel 253 422 770
hotelmestredeavis.pt
Historic
Map C1
Baluarte do Socorro, 4930-619
Tel 251 800 260
pousadas.pt
Penso / B&B
Map C1
Rua Manuel Fiza Jnior 157,
4900-458
Tel 258 828 911
Snug and friendly penso with
comfortably furnished, spotless
rooms, some with balconies.
DK Choice
VIANA DO CASTELO:
Pousada Monte de Santa
Luzia
Historic
Map C1
Monte de Santa Luzia, 4901-909
Tel 258 800 370
pousadas.pt
GUIMARES: Pousada de
Santa Marinha
Historic
Map C2
Largo Domingos Leite de Castro,
Ludar da Costa, 4810-011
Tel 253 511 249
VILA DO CONDE:
Santana Hotel
Modern
Map C2
Monte Santana, Azurara, 4480-188
Tel 252 640 460
pousadas.pt
santanahotel.net
W H E R E TO S TAY
Alentejo
BEJA: Bejense
Rural
Map D6
Rua Capito Joo Francisco de Sousa
57, 7800-451
Tel 284 311 570
hotelbejense.com
Historic
Map D6
Largo D Nuno lvares Pereira,
7801-901
Tel 284 313 580
DK Choice
VORA: Pousada dos
Lios
Historic
Map D5
Largo Conde Vila Flor, 7000-804
Tel 266 730 070
pousadas.pt
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map D4
Mosteiro da Flor da Rosa, 7430-999
Tel 245 997 210
pousadas.pt
Historic
Map D5
Rua de Joo de Quintal 1, 7350-000
Tel 268 639 220
hotelsaojoaodeus.com
Rural
Map D5
Estrada de Barbacena, 7350-903
Tel 268 636 460
qsahotel.com
Historic
Map D5
Largo Dom Dinis, 7100-509
Tel 268 332 075
Rural
Map D4
Rua Dr Matos Magalhes 8, 7330-121
Tel 245 909 028
ter-domdinis.com
Historic
Map D4
Rua 24 de Janeiro, 7330-122
Tel 245 993 201
pousadas.pt
Historical
Map D5
Aldeia da Serra, 7170-120
Tel 266 989 160
hotelconventosaopaulo.com
393
Historic
Map D5
Rua Dr Couto Jardim 34, 7160-263
Tel 268 889 430
casadocolegiovelho.com
Historic
Map D5
Convento das Chagas,
Terreiro do Pao, 7160-251
Tel 268 980 742
pousadas.pt
Algarve
ALBUFEIRA: Alfagar
Self-catering
Map C7
Aldeamento Turstico, Santa Eullia,
8200-912
Tel 289 540 220
alfagar.com
granderealsantaeulaliahotel.com
Rural
Map D7
Fonte Coberta, 8135-019
Tel 289 393 165
quintadosrochas.pt.vu
pousadas.pt
Design
Map D5
Rua da Repblica 11, 7000-656
Tel 266 744 500
evorainn.com
394
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Rural
Map D7
Quinta do Lago, 8135-024
Tel 289 350 350
hotelquintadolago.com
Modern
Map C7
Praia da Luz, 8600-147
Tel 282 788 655
SAGRES: Navigator
Self-catering
Map C7
Rua Infante D Henrique, 8650-381
Tel 282 624 354
belavistadaluz.com
Modern
Map C7
Estrada de Sta Margarida, 8100-012
Tel 289 478 523
Modern
Map C7
Rua Antnio Crisgono dos Santos,
8600-678
Tel 282 790 079
altehotel.com
DK Choice
CALDAS DE MONCHIQUE:
Longevity Wellness Resort
Design
Map C7
Lugar do Montinho, 8550-232
Tel 282 240 100
longevitywellnessresort.com
An ultra-modern eco-friendly
spa with state-of-the-art
facilities, Longevity Wellness
Resort oers both healing and
relaxing treatments, and healthy
gourmet food in a luxurious
setting. Enjoy exercise classes
outdoors with the mountains
as a backdrop or admire the
views from a choice of pools.
tivolihotels.com
Modern
Map D7
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
8900-412
Tel 281 510 900
aparthotelnavigator.com
Map C7
algarveguesthouse.com
Modern
Map C7
Alporchinhos, 8400-450
Tel 282 310 100
Historic
Map D7
Rua So Jos, 8005-465
Tel 289 990 150
PORTIMO: Le Mridien
Penina
Design
Map C7
Penina, 8501-952
Tel 282 420 200
lemeridienpenina.com
Modern
Map D7
Avenida dos Bombeiros Portugueses,
8900-209
Tel 281 512 448
pousadas.pt
vascodagamahotel.com
vilavitaparc.com
quintadocaracol.com
apolo-hotel.com
FARO: Frangaria
Modern
Map D7
Estrada Nacional 125/10, 8001-904
Tel 289 887 700
frangaria.com
Modern
Map D7
Avenida da Repblica 1, 8000-078
Tel 289 001 000
tdhotels.pt
W H E R E TO S TAY
Madeira
vilateresinha.com
Design
Travessa do Largo da Choupana,
9060-348
Tel 291 206 020
choupanahills.com
hotelquintapenhafranca.com
baiadabarca.com
reidspalace.com
thelakeresort.com
Rural
Caminho de Baixo, Lajes do Pico,
Silveira, 9930-177
Tel 292 679 500
This eco- and pet-friendly resort
has six rustic stone houses in lush
gardens. It also has a tness centre.
DK Choice
Design
Map D7
Praia da Falsia, 8126-910
Tel 289 320 700
395
aldeiadafonte.com
hoteldocolegio.arteh-hotels.com
pensaosalgueiro.com
Modern
Rua Goulart Medeiros, 9400-164
Tel 291 980 450
Design
Rua Padre Jos Jacinto Botelho,
Furnas, 9675-061
Tel 296 549 090
bensaude.pt
portosantohotels.com
hotelbeiramar.com
DK Choice
The Azores
FAIAL: Quinta das Buganvlias
Rural
Castelo Branco, Horta, 9900-330
Tel 292 943 255
quintadasbuganvilias.com
Historic
Rua Vasco da Gama, Horta, 9900-017
Tel 292 202 200
pousadas.pt
TERCEIRA: Quinta
do Martelo
Rural
Canada do Martelo 24, Cantinho,
So Francisco das Almas, 9700-576
Tel 295 642 842
quintadomartelo.com
396
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
397
Coffee
Coffee is widely drunk in
Portugal and served in many
forms. The most popular is a
small cup of strong black
coffee similar to an espresso.
In Lisbon and the south this
is called uma bica; elsewhere,
ask for um caf. Uma meia de
leite is half coffee, half milk.
Recommended
Restaurants
The terrace with wonderful ocean views at Riso, Funchal (see p414)
Children
The Portuguese are very fond of
children, and most restaurants
will serve half- or childrens
portions of dishes on the menu.
Smoking
Establishments that dont have
an extractor fan dont allow
smoking. Larger restaurants may
have a smoking section, but
most do not. Many cafs, bars
and nightclubs still tolerate
smoking. Look for a blue or red
sign near the entrance; blue
means that smoking is allowed.
The elegant dining room at Estrias na Casa da Comida, Lisbon (see p399)
398
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Italian
Map 8 F3
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique
Loja 7, Cais da Pedra, 1900-264
Tel 218 877 532
This trendy riverside restaurant
specializes in pizzas. For dessert,
try the unusual but delicious
chocolate-spread pizza. No
reservations, so try to arrive early.
Hua-Ta-Li
Chinese
Map 7 C4
Rua dos Bacalhoeiros 109115A,
1100-068
Tel 218 879 170
Expect generous portions and
quick service at this large,
popular restaurant that oers a
vast all-you-can-eat buet for
lunch and dinner. There is also an
la carte menu.
Tentaes de Goa
Goan
Map 7 C3
Rua So Pedro Mrtir 23, 1100-555
Tel 218 875 824
Closed Sun;
Mon lunch
A cheerful establishment with
brightly painted walls and
outstanding Goan cuisine. The
chef tailors the level of spiciness
to guests tastes. Cash only.
Chapit Mesa
International
Map 7 C3
Costa do Castelo 7, 1149-079
Tel 218 875 077
Choose from several options at
this restaurant in a performing
arts school: bar snacks or grilled
meats on the outdoor terrace or a
more sophisticated la carte
menu inside the restaurant.
Faz Figura
Modern Portuguese
Map 8 F2
Rua do Paraiso 15B, 1100-395
Tel 218 868 981 Closed Mon lunch
This stylish restaurant draws the
crowds with both its location and
menu. The chef sprinkles an
international touch on traditional
ingredients. The covered terrace
looks out on the River Tagus.
Santo Antnio de Alfama
International
Map 8 F3
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
Cais da Pedra, 1900-436
Tel 218 810 320 Closed Sun dinner,
Mon lunch
This trendy restaurant with
minimalist decor in a converted
riverfront warehouse oers a
mouthwatering range of meat
and vegetarian dishes, including
Portuguese and Asian fare.
Casa do Leo
Price Guide
Prices are based on a three-course meal
for one, with half a bottle of house wine
inclusive of tax and service charges.
up to 20
2040
over 40
Casa do Alentejo
Modern Portuguese
Map 7 B5
Ptio da Gal, Terreiro do Pao,
1400-148
Tel 216 080 090
This stylish gourmet restaurant
with a high, vaulted ceiling and an
open kitchen is the creation of
celebrity chef Jos Cordeiro. In
addition to the ne dining menu,
traditional Portuguese tapas
(petiscos) are served all day.
Fbulas
International
Map 7 B5
Calada Nova de So Francisco 14,
1200-300
Tel 216 018 472
Closed Sun
Various seating areas to suit
mood and weather are to be
found at this restaurant. There is a
creative organic menu and a
great wine list.
Marisqueira Santa Marta
Seafood
Map 5 C5
Travessa do Enviado de Inglaterra 1D,
1150-139
Tel 213 525 638
The good-value fare, such as
seafood rice or stued crab,
keeps the local clientele coming
Os Tibetanos
Vegetarian
Map 4 F1
Rua do Salitre 117, 1250-198
Tel 213 142 038
Closed Sun
With its bright, colourful decor
and leafy garden terrace, this
informal restaurant serves a
selection of hearty Tibetan and
international dishes, including
tofu with pesto. Cash only.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
399
Cervejaria
Map 4 F1
Rua do Salitre 212, 1250-200
Tel 213 549 411
It is almost obligatory to try the
fresh whole sh and seafood
priced by the kilo here, although
extremely good steaks and
bacalhau dishes are served too.
Eleven
International
Map 5 B4
Rua Marqus de Fronteira,
Jardim Amlia Rodrigues, 1070-310
Tel 213 862 211
Closed Sun
At one of Lisbons top gourmet
restaurants, the elegant
atmosphere and rened decor
contribute to a unique ne
dining experience. There are
tasting, la carte and lobsterthemed menus. Reserve ahead.
A Confraria
Modern Portuguese
Map 4 D3
York House Hotel, Rua das Janelas
Verdes 32, 1200-691
Tel 213 962 435
Closed Mon, Tue
In a charming historic building,
A Confraria oers an inventive
menu that reects the seasonal
oerings. Excellent wine list.
Gambrinus
Seafood
Map 7 B2
Rua das Portas de Santo Anto 23,
1150-264
Tel 213 421 466
Wooden furniture, stained-glass
panels and murals create a
sophisticated atmosphere at
this well-established favourite.
The conch shell lled with
seafood is a speciality.
Bota Alta
Pabe
International
Map 5 C5
Rua Duque de Palmela 27A, 1250-097
Tel 213 537 484
The mock-Tudor faade, beamed
ceilings and wooden walls
recreate a traditional English pub
atmosphere. The fare includes
roasted sea bass, breaded squid
and charcoal-grilled baby goat.
Steakhouse
Map 7 A3
Calada Escadinhas do Duque 31B,
1200-155
Tel 213 420 739
Closed Sun
Enjoy succulent and cooked-toperfection Argentinian steaks in a
cosy, unpretentious setting. As an
accompaniment, try the ower
salad. Reserve ahead. Cash only.
Casanostra
Italian
Map 7 A3
Travessa do Poo da Cidade 60,
1200-334
Tel 213 425 931
Closed Sat lunch
This friendly restaurant with
simple, bright decor is popular
with locals and visitors alike. All
of the delicious, home-made
Modern Portuguese
Map 4 F2
Rua de So Pedro de Alcntara 81,
1250-238
Tel 213 461 381
Closed Sat lunch
Chic decor, a relaxed atmosphere
and creative twists to traditional
favourites make this a popular
choice. Fabulous cocktails.
Estrias na Casa da Comida
Modern Portuguese
Map 5 B5
Travessa das Amoreiras 1, 1250-025
Tel 213 860 889
Closed Mon
& Sat lunch; Sun
A carefully selected wine list
accompanies the mouthwatering
haute cuisine at this restaurant.
For a romantic meal in a
sophisticated setting, ask for a
table in or overlooking the garden.
La Brasserie de lEntrecte
Steakhouse
Map 7 A4
Rua do Alecrim 117, 1200-016
Tel 213 473 616
This elegant restaurant with an
Art Deco interior oers only one
dish: perfectly tender entrecte
steak with a special sauce made
with herbs and other ingredients.
Pateo do Bairro
Brazilian
Map 4 D4
Rua das Janelas Verdes 96, 1200-692
Tel 213 975 401 Closed Sat & Sun
lunch
This is the perfect place for a topquality steak grilled on an open
re. Blue-and-white azulejo panels
decorate the walls. Book ahead.
400
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Real Fbrica
Cervejaria
Map 4 E1
Rua da Escola Politcnica 275,
1250-101
Tel 213 852 090
Closed Sun
Seafood and steaks are served
in this former silk factory. Try the
signature dish, entrecte
real fbrica, or the spicy
Mozambique prawns.
DK Choice
Taberna Ideal
Modern Portuguese
Map 3 C2
Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C,
1350-119
Tel 210 993 939 Closed Mon lunch;
Sun
Enjoy a vibrant atmosphere in a
contemporary setting. Signature
dishes include tuna with sweet
potato and skate boiled in olive
oil. Portuguese-style tapas and
tasting menus are also available.
Trivial
Portuguese / Italian
Map 3 C3
Olissippo Lapa Palace, Rua do Pau de
Bandeira 4, 1249-021
Tel 213 949 494
Housed in a 19th-century palace,
this rened restaurant serves
gourmet dishes such as leito de
Bairrada (Bairrada-style suckling
pig). The wine list is exemplary.
Sea Me
Seafood
Map 4 F3
Rua do Loreto 21, 1200-049
Tel 213 461 564
Specializing in Portuguese and
Japanese cuisines, Sea Mes chef
prepares fresh seafood dishes
and the best sushi in town.
Belm
Rosa dos Mares
International
Map 4 F2
Largo Trindade 9, 1200-466
Tel 210 990 475 Closed lunch; Sun
A trendy, glamorous bistro with
a creative menu that draws a
fashionable clientele. The upstairs
dining area is quite romantic.
Kais
Traditional Portuguese /
International
Map 4 D4
Cais da Viscondessa, Rua da Cintura,
Santos, 1200-109
Tel 213 932 930 Closed Sun & Mon
Housed in a riverside warehouse
and featuring industrial-chic
decor, Kais is two restaurants in
For key to prices see page 398
No Solo Italia
Italian
Map 1 B5
Avenida Brasilia 202, 1400-038
Tel 213 015 969
Excellent pizzas and ice creams,
are served at this glass-walled
restaurant with a terrace that
overhangs the River Tagus. There
is also a childrens menu.
5 Oceanos
Modern Portuguese
Map 3 A4
Doca de Santo Amaro, Armazm 12,
1350-353
Tel 213 978 015
This stylish restaurant by the river
focuses largely on fresh sh and
seafood. House favourites include
cataplana (seafood casserole)
and curried lobster with prawns.
Belm Bar Caf
International
Map 2 E4
Avenida de Brasilia Pavilho
Poente, 1300-598
Tel 213 624 232 Closed lunch; Sun
Thu dinner
A favourite haunt of footballers
and VIPs, this stylish, modern
venue oers dinner and dancing.
The constantly changing menu
caters to both vegetarians and
meat eaters. Reserve ahead.
Vela Latina
Modern Portuguese
Map 1 B5
Doca do Bom Sucesso, 1400-038
Tel 213 017 118
Closed Sun
Set in lush gardens, this peaceful
and stylish restaurant has views
of the river and the marina. Menu
highlights include lobster-lled
crpes and hake llet with rice.
Further Aeld
Antnio
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Mezzaluna
Italian
Map 5 A4
Rua Artilharia Um 16, 1250-039
Tel 213 879 944 Closed Sat lunch;
Sun
Simple, elegant decor and a
relaxed, romantic atmosphere
characterize this restaurant. The
menu includes delicious pasta
with octopus and classics such
as spaghetti alla carbonara.
Cervejaria
Map 6 E5
Avenida Almirante Reis 117, 1115-014
Tel 213 140 002
This agship of a chain of brewery
restaurants serves excellent
steaks and seafood. Try the bread
stew with prawns, and wash it
down with the house beer.
La Gondola
Portuguese / Italian
Map 5 B2
Avenida de Berna 64, 1050-043
Tel 217 970 426
Choose from a range of homemade pasta dishes or traditional
Portuguese fare at this bright,
spacious restaurant with a
pretty garden.
Laurentina
Modern Portuguese
Map 5 C1
Avenida 5 de Outubro 197, 1050-054
Tel 210 435 000
An innovative menu that
changes according to the
seasons is oered at this stylish,
elegant restaurant. There is also
an extensive wine list.
International
Map C5
Castelo de Alccer do Sal, 7580-197
Tel 265 613 070
The river-inuenced menu here
features starters such as Sado sh
soup. Mains include fried eel with
tomato rice and roast leg of lamb.
CASCAIS: Mayura
Indian
Map B5
Rua Freitas Reis 15B, 2750-357
Tel 214 846 540
An informal and friendly
restaurant with a loyal clientele.
On the menu are consistently
good Indian and Goan dishes.
CASCAIS: Aromi
Italian
Map B5
Rua Frederico Arouca 32, 2750-343
Tel 214 862 191
Expect more than just pasta and
pizza from this warm, welcoming
restaurant. Look out for the daily
specials and fresh swordsh,
when available. The vegetarian
lasagna is highly recommended.
CASCAIS: Casa Velha
Seafood
Map B5
Avenida Valbom 1, 2750-508
Tel 214 832 586
Stone walls and a ceiling draped
with shing nets create a rustic,
homely ambience. Popular
401
Modern Portuguese
Map B5
Avenida Marginal 8554, 2775-536
Tel 210 060 600 Closed lunch daily
The regularly changing gourmet
menu and wine list are worth
getting dressed up for at this ne
dining restaurant in a romantic
setting at the Hotel Miragem,
overlooking the marina.
CASCAIS: O Pescador
Seafood
Map B5
Rua das Flores 10B, 2750-348
Tel 214 832 054
Closed Sun
This well-established restaurant
has a distinctly nautical interior
to match the rm emphasis on
seafood and fresh sh. There
is an excellent wine list, too.
CASCAIS: The Mix
Mediterranean / Sushi
Map B5
Avenida Rei Humberto de Itlia 7,
2750-461
Tel 214 823 490
Part of the ve-star Farol Hotel
complex, this modern, elegant
restaurant serves beautifully
presented and imaginative fusion
dishes in three distinct dining
areas. It attracts a fashionable,
well-heeled crowd. Reservations
recommended.
ESTORIL: Estoril Mandarin
Chinese
Map B5
Praa Jos Teodoro dos Santos,
2765-237
Tel 214 667 270 Closed Mon & Tue
This plush restaurant situated
in the Casino Estoril is considered
the best place in Portugal to
sample Chinese food. Specialities
include Peking duck and
dim sum.
ESTORIL: Pintos
International
Map B5
Arcadas do Parque 18B, 2765-087
Tel 214 687 247
Closed Wed
A restaurant that is good for
snacks as well as more
substantial meals. The menu
ranges from salads and burgers
to pizza and shellsh. There
are ne views across the
esplanade gardens.
402
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
The dining room at Cozinha Velha, in Queluz, dominated by a large stone chimney
ESTORIL: Four Seasons Grill
International
Map B5
Rua da Particular, 2769-504
Tel 214 680 000 Closed lunch daily
Located in the Hotel Palcio, this
sophisticated ne dining venue
features a seasonally changing
decor. The superb gourmet
dishes are complemented by
an inspired wine list and
attentive service.
GUINCHO: Restaurante
Bar do Guincho
International
Map B5
Estrado do Abano 547, 2755-144
Tel 214 871 683 Closed Mon (except
JunAug)
This beach restaurant serves
a range of salads, sandwiches
and burgers, as well as more
substantial meat dishes. This is a
great place to watch the sunset.
DK Choice
GUINCHO: Porto de Santa
Maria
Traditional Portuguese /
Seafood
Map B5
Estrada do Guincho, 2750-642
T 214 879 450
Tel
Elegant furnishings are
complemented by rustic
touches at this award-winning
beachside restaurant. The menu
features a vast range of freshly
caught, exquisite sh and
seafood dishes, priced by the
kilo. Robalo ao sall (salt-baked
snook) is the house speciality.
Book ahead.
MONTE ESTORIL: O Sinaleiro
Traditional Portuguese Map B5
Avenida de Sabia 595, 2765-278
Tel 214 685 439
Closed Wed
This simple restaurant and
bar serves good-quality fare,
with some unusual dishes on
the largely traditional menu.
Great for full meals, snacks
or takeaways.
For key to prices see page 398
MONTE ESTORIL:
Tertlia do Monte
Traditional Portuguese /
International
Map B5
Avenida de Sabia 515D, 2765-502
Tel 214 681 508
Closed Sat
& Sun lunch
The menu at this fashionable
restaurant features dishes such as
risotto with curried prawns and
duck cooked in port wine. Save
room for the delicious desserts.
PAO DARCOS: Aquarela
do Brasil
Brazilian / Japanese
Map B5
Praa 5 de Outubro 12, 2770-029
Tel 214 415 412
Closed Mon
With a name like watercolour of
Brazil, expect art on the walls. As
well as great Brazilian food, there
is a sushi menu and Portuguese
tapas. Live music on Wednesdays.
PALMELA: Pousada de
Palmela
International
Map C5
Castelo de Palmela, 2950-317
Tel 212 351 226
This romantic, luxurious restaurant
is located in a former monastery.
Specialities include partridge and
wild mushroom pie, and crispy
cod with onion and coriander.
Seafood
Map C5
Avenida dos Nufragos 29, 2970-637
Tel 212 234 853
This colourful restaurant is said
to be one of the best in the
region. The imaginative chef
regularly updates the menu
with tasty original concoctions.
SETBAL: Poo das
Fontainhas
Seafood
Map C5
Rua das Fontainhas 96, 2910-082
Tel 265 534 807
Closed Mon
The focus here is rmly on fresh
seafood and sh. Try the caldeirada
setbalense (sh stew). Not easy
to nd but well worth the eort.
SETBAL: Pousada
de So Filipe
PORTINHO DA ARRBIDA:
Beira-Mar
Seafood
Map C5
Portinho da Arrbida, 2925-378
Tel 996 337 352 Closed Wed (Oct
May)
Highlights at this restaurant in a
stunning seaside setting overlooking the harbour include arroz
de marisco (seafood rice), fresh sh
and, in summer, grilled sardines.
SINTRA: Monserrate
International / Traditional
Portuguese
Map B5
Praa de Repblica, 2710-616
Tel 219 237 200
Housed in the Tivoli Hotel, this
restaurant oers fabulous views
of the Sintra Valley. The duck on a
stone with grilled fruits is a
speciality. Book ahead.
International
Map B5
Palcio Nacional de Queluz, 2745-191
Tel 214 356 158
The original stone chimney is the
centrepiece of this restaurant
housed in the palace kitchens.
SINTRA: Tulhas
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
SINTRA: Lawrences
International
Map B5
Rua Consigliri Pedroso 3840,
2710-550
Tel 219 105 500
Enjoy ne dining in this historic
hotel popular with celebrities.
Choose from an outstanding
la carte menu and an extensive
wine list. Impeccable service.
ALCOBAA: Sentidos
Modern Portuguese
Map C4
Rua Manuel Rodrigues Serrazina
Fervena, 2460-743
Tel 262 505 370
Relaxed, romantic elegance is
the setting here in which to
enjoy regional dishes from a daily
changing menu. There is also
a good selection of wines.
International
Map B5
Rua Barbosa do Bocage 8, 2710-517
Tel 219 233 200
The luxurious and elegant decor
adds a touch of romance to the
ne dining experience here. Topclass nouvelle cuisine features
regional delicacies with French
and Italian inuences.
ALMEIRIM: Toucinho
Estremadura and
Ribatejo
ABRANTES: Cascata
Traditional Portuguese
Map C4
Rua Manuel Lopes Valente Jnior
19A, 2200-260
Tel 241 361 011
Closed Sun &
Mon dinner
This award-winning restaurant
oers top-quality regional dishes
such as bacalhau ao broa (baked
cod with corn bread) and roast kid.
ABRANTES: Sabores
da Cascata
BATALHA: Vintage
403
CALDAS DA RAINHA:
Adega do Albertino
International
Map C4
Rua Jacinto Marto 100, 2495-000
Tel 249 539 330
This stylish restaurant is renowned
for its attractively presented
gourmet cuisine; dishes include
braised duck in orange sauce.
DK Choice
FTIMA: Tia Alice
Traditional Portuguese
Map C4
Rua Santa Isabel 12, 2200-393
Tel 967 893 970
Closed Sun
This small restaurant with a rustic
ambience has a menu that centres
on meat dishes. Try the migas de
alheira (poultry sausage with
breadcrumbs). The fried eels are
good too.
ALCOBAA: Trindade
Traditional Portuguese
Map C4
Praa Dom Afonso Henriques 22,
2460-030
Tel 262 582 397
The quality of the food makes
this well-established restaurant
a local favourite. Recommended
404
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
International
Map B4
Rua Direita, 2510-001
Tel 262 959 220
Closed Wed
This small, traditionally furnished
restaurant with a cosy ambience
serves a range of well-cooked
and beautifully presented dishes.
The medallions of beef with
port wine are delicious.
BIDOS: Castelo
International
Map B4
Pao Real, 2510-99
Tel 262 955 080
Enjoy gourmet cuisine at this
pousada. Specialities include crab
pie with crab sauce and trouxas
de ovos (egg pudding).
PENICHE: Estelas
Seafood
Map B4
Rua Arquitecto Paulino Monts 21,
2520-294
Tel 262 782 435 Closed Wed (Nov
Mar)
This award-winning restaurant is
enduringly popular with locals.
Be sure to try the local Berlenga
sea bass. It has an extensive wine
list and a homely atmosphere.
PENICHE: Marisqueira
Cortiais
Seafood
Map B4
Porto dAreia Sul, 2520-000
Tel 262 787 262
Closed Wed
A waterfront restaurant that
serves very fresh seafood. The
arroz de marisco (seafood rice)
and the festival de marisco
(shellsh platter) are excellent.
SANTARM: Taberna do
Quinzena
The Beiras
ALMEIDA: Hotel Fortaleza
de Almeida
International
Map C3
Largo do Praca do Peixe 24, 3800-243
Tel 234 338 567 Closed Sun dinner;
Mon
The gourmet dishes here, cooked
by a creative chef, include
pumpkin soup with prawn and
poultry sausage. Be sure to leave
room for the exquisite desserts.
BELMONTE: Pousada do
Convento de Belmonte
International
Map D3
Serra da Esperana, 6250-073
Tel 275 910 300
A beautiful restaurant with
original stone features and
wonderful mountain views.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
405
Modern Portuguese
Map C3
Mata do Bussaco, 3050-261
Tel 231 937 970
Arched, lace stonework on the
windows here makes for a
romantic setting in which to enjoy
superb cuisine. World-class labels
feature on the wine list.
CARAMULO: O Pas
Modern Portuguese
Map C3
Rua Fernandes Toms 4549,
3000-168
Tel 934 093 636
Closed Mon
This small, cheerful restaurant,
bar and grocery store specializes
in interesting healthy snacks.
Perfect for a light lunch; for a
more substantial meal, order
several dishes.
DK Choice
COIMBRA: A Taberna
International
Map C3
Rua Antnio Augusto Gonalves,
3041-901
Tel 239 802 380
The gourmet menu at this
luxurious, romantic restaurant in
the Quinta das Lgrimas changes
with the seasons but never fails
to delight. Discreet service.
CONDEIXAANOVA:
Santa Cristina
Modern Portuguese
Map C3
Rua Francisco de Lemos, 3150-142
Tel 239 944 025
The menu at this sophisticated
restaurant is packed with regional
delicacies. Try the cabritinho de
Condeixa no forno (kid with corn
breadcrumbs and turnip stems).
GUARDA: O Ferrinho
406
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Seafood
Map D3
Avenida Emdio Navarro 7072,
3500-124
Tel 232 422 239
This bright, spacious restaurant
specializes in seafood. The arroz
de polvo com gambas (octopus
and prawn rice) is a must. There
are plenty of meat dishes too.
Reserve in advance.
VISEU: Churrasqueira Santa
Eullia
Modern Portuguese
Map D2
Rua Dr Jos Bulas Cruz, 5070-047
Tel 259 950 177
Closed Dec
Mar: Sun dinner & Mon
The modern, sophisticated
decor here matches the gourmet
cuisine of well-presented classic
Portuguese fare with a modern
twist. A tasting menu is available.
BRAGANA: Geadas
AMARANTE: Estoril
DK Choice
AMARANTE: Largo
do Pao
International
Map D2
Largo do Pao 6, 4600-017
Tel 255 410 830
The elegant Largo do Pao
oers a culinary experience to
satisfy the most rened and
demanding of palates. Located
in the historic Casa da Calada
hotel (see p391), this awardwinning restaurant boasts a
Michelin star. Chef Vtor Matos
changes the tasting menus
seasonally to incorporate the
freshest available ingredients.
BRAGANA: Solar
Braganano
CHAVES: Carvalho
Modern Portuguese
Map D2
Rua Jos Runo, 5070-031
Tel 259 959 215
The loyal clientele returns for
regional treats such as alheira
(poultry sausage) and lamb stew
at this award-winning restaurant
in a historic building. There is a
good choice of Douro wines.
For key to prices see page 398
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
407
LEA DA PALMEIRA:
O Chanquinhas
International
Map C2
Rua de Santana 243, 4450-000
Tel 229 951 884
Closed Sun; 115
Aug
Delicious cuisine is served at this
elegant restaurant in a former
mansion. The wine list is
impressive, as are the desserts.
Try the po de l (sponge cake).
MIRANDA DO DOURO:
A Balbina
Modern Portuguese
Map D1
Parque Dr Jos Gama, 5370-000
Tel 278 203 063
This elegant, contemporary
riverside restaurant serves awardwinning cuisine based on fresh
local ingredients. A tasting menu
is also available.
OPORTO: Ar de Rio
Cervejaria
Map C2
Avenida Diogo Leite 5, 4400-123
Tel 226 701 797
Enjoy great river views from the
covered terrace at this restaurant
famous for francesinhas
stacked, meaty sandwiches
covered with cheese and sauce.
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Praa Carlos Alberto 89, 4050-158
Tel 222 016 618
Closed Sun;
Mon lunch
Try the bacalhau com broa (cod
with corn bread) or one of the
good-value set lunch menus at
this modern, friendly restaurant.
The wine list favours the Douro.
OPORTO: Bull and Bear
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Avenida da Boavista 3431, 4149-017
Tel 226 107 669
This award-winning restaurant
with fashionable decor serves
light, rened meals prepared
with the freshest ingredients.
Tasting menus are available.
Reserve in advance.
OPORTO: Caf Vitria
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Rua Jos Falco 156, 4050-315
Tel 220 135 538
Closed Tue
There are three seating areas in
this bright, cheerful restaurant
with vegetarian options. Try
the marinated sardines or the
mushroom toast.
OPORTO: Essncia
Vegetarian
Map C2
Rua Pedro Hispano 1190, 4150-123
Tel 228 301 813
Closed Sun
Creative vegetarian food is the
fosus at this informal restaurant
with stylish 1940s decor and a
garden terrace.
OPORTO: Camafeu
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Praa Carlos Alberto 83, 4050-158
Tel 937 493 557
Closed Sun, Mon
Candelabras and chandeliers
light up this romantic, stylish
establishment. It is perfect for an
intimate dinner, though the set
lunch menus are also popular.
International
Map C2
Rua Toms Gonzaga 87, 4050-607
Tel 222 008 774 Closed lunch; Sun
The eclectic menu at this small,
cosy restaurant features dishes
from countries as varied as
Vietnam and Poland. Cash only.
Reserve in advance.
OPORTO: Restaurante
Casa da Msica
International
Map C2
Avenida da Boavista, 4149-071
Tel 220 107 160
Closed Sun
The chef here is on a mission to
make gourmet food widely
accessible. Several show-anddinner packages, as well as a
good-value tasting menu, are
available. Excellent wine list.
OPORTO: Tripeiro
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Esplanada do Castelo 141, 4150-196
Tel 226 154 178
Closed Sun &
Mon lunch
A stylish restaurant with stuccoed
ceilings and colourful decor.
Three dierent tasting menus
oer gourmet cuisine, and the
wide-ranging wine list allows
perfect pairings. Reserve ahead.
408
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Traditonal Portuguese
Map C1
Rua Dom Antnio Barroso 87,
4750-258
Tel 253 812 285
This rustic eatery has a friendly
family vibe. The regional dishes
on the menu are complemented
with game in season. Try the
Barcelos-style veal or the
chicken rice.
International
Map C2
Rua da Alegria 598, 4000-037
Tel 225 370 717
This famous restaurant with
1970s decor and panoramic city
views has a wide-ranging
menu and wine list.
OPORTO: The Yeatman
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Rua do Choupelo, 4400-088
Tel 220 133 100
Housed in one of the citys nest
hotels, this luxurious Michelinstarred restaurant oers an
inspired gourmet menu and an
expertly chosen wine list. There
are great views over the historic
city centre.
PESO DA RGUA: Douro In
Modern Portuguese
Map D2
Avenida Joo Franco, 5050-264
Tel 254 098 075
A modern, sophisticated wine
bar and restaurant overlooking
the Douro. On the menu are
creative renditions of traditional
Portuguese dishes and a choice
of vintage Douro wines.
PESO DA RGUA: Varanda
da Rgua
Traditonal Portuguese
Map E1
Rua da Capela, 5370-620
Tel 278 939 134 Closed Sun dinner;
Mon
Set in a historic townhouse with
a rustic air, this restaurant oers a
menu of wholesome favourites,
including spicy sausage soup and
feijoada transmontana (bean
stew), made from family recipes.
For key to prices see page 398
SENDIM: Gabriela
Traditonal Portuguese
Map E2
Largo da Igreja 27, 5225-106
Tel 273 739 180
Regional specialities, such as
Mirandese steak in a special
sauce and sopa de nabo com
chourio (turnip soup with red
pepper sausage), are served here.
TORRE DE MONCORVO:
O Artur
Traditonal Portuguese
Map E2
Lugar de Rento, Carviais, 5160-069
Tel 279 098 000 Closed Sun dinner
Decorated with farming
equipment, this restaurant is
renowned locally for Mirandese
steak and cabrito (kid).
VILA REAL: Museu dos
Presuntos
Minho
ARCOS DE VALDEVEZ:
Costa do Vez
Traditonal Portuguese
Map C1
N121, Quinta de Silvares, 4970-483
Tel 258 516 122
Closed Mon
Mountain views, grilled meats
and baked cod are what this
attractive restaurant is known
for. Finish with the local cakes,
charutos dos Arcos (cigars of Arcos).
BARCELOS: Bagoeira
Traditonal Portuguese
Map C1
Avenida Sidnio Pais 495, 4750-333
Tel 253 813 088
The set menu at this hotel
restaurant oers a selection
of regional fare served in
generous portions.
BRAGA: Anjo Verde
Vegetarian
Map C1
Largo da Praa Velha 21, 4700-439
Tel 253 264 010
Closed Sun
A modern, attractive vegetarian
restaurant. On the menu are
substantial main dishes and
several colourful side dishes,
plus there is a complimentary
herbal tea on arrival.
BRAGA: So Frutuoso
Modern Portuguese
Map C1
Rua Baro de So Roque 69, 4910-340
Tel 258 728 199
A light, airy hotel restaurant
whose menu oers plenty of
choice, including fresh sh.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
DK Choice
GUIMARES:
Cor de Tangerina
Vegetarian
Map C1
Largo Martins Sarmento 89,
4800-432
Tel 253 542 009
Closed Sun
dinner; Mon
Spread across one oor and
the leafy gardens of an old
townhouse, this restaurant in a
cultural centre with funky
furnishings and frequent art
exhibitions oers vegetarian
daily specials made with fresh,
locally sourced organic produce.
An extensive range of infusions
and teas is available.
GUIMARES: El Rei
Dom Afonso
409
Traditional Portuguese
Map C1
Lugar de Antepaco, 4990-231
Tel 258 742 316
Closed Mon
Dishes at this restaurant with
rustic decor include cod with
corn bread and roast kid. There is
a good wine list with plenty of
vinhos verdes.
PVOA DE VARZIM:
O Marinheiro
Modern Portuguese
Map C2
Rua Gomes de Amorim, 4490-091
Tel 252 682 151
A trendy, boat-shaped restaurant
with a sleek, elegant design. The
fresh seafood is the main draw,
but meat eaters are well catered
for too. There is a childrens menu.
VALENA DO MINHO: Man
International
Map C1
Avenida Miguel Dantas 5, 4930-678
Tel 251 823 402
Closed Mon
The menu here oers a blend of
Portuguese and French
inuences. Good wine list.
Tradtional Portuguese
Map C1
Baluarte do Socorro, 4930-619
Tel 251 800 260
Enjoy lovely country views at
this elegant, spacious restaurant
housed in a pousada. Try the
arroz de tamboril com camaro
(monksh with rice and shrimp)
or the cabbage soup with
Minho sausages.
VIANA DO CASTELO:
O Pescador
Alentejo
ALANDROAL: A Maria
410
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
DK Choice
ALBERNA: Herdade dos
Grous
Traditional Portuguese
Map E5
Rua Primeiro de Maio 19, 7370-027
Tel 268 686 139
This warm and intimate eatery
oers a fantastic selection of
regional dishes and good house
wine. Try the cozida de gro
(meat and chickpea stew).
CRATO: Flor da Rosa
ESTREMOZ: So Rosas
The chic bar area at Flor da Rosa, housed in a former monastery in Crato
For key to prices see page 398
VORA: Botequim
da Mouraria
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
411
Seafood
Map C6
Avenida Marginal, 7645-000
Tel 283 996 420
Freshly caught sh and seafood
make it to the dish of the day or
straight to the grill at this popular
restaurant overlooking the
ocean. Good wines.
Algarve
Modern Portuguese
Map D5
Rua Cndido dos Reis 14, 7300-129
Tel 245 330 866 Closed Sat lunch;
Sun
Imaginative versions of regional
recipes are accompanied by
good Alentejan wines. The
decor makes it evident that
the owner is a bullghting fan.
REDONDO: Convento de
So Paulo
SANTIAGO DO CACM:
A Deolinda
Modern Portuguese
Map C6
Rua Madre Teresa, 7350-491
Tel 268 656 118 Closed Sun dinner;
Mon; early Aug
Serving inspired gourmet cuisine,
the tasting menu at this
celebrated restaurant includes
such delights as partridge stued
with mushrooms and chestnuts.
VILA DE FRADES:
Pas das Uvas
ALBUFEIRA: A Tasquinha
do Rossio
Seafood
Map C7
Rua Doutor Santos Silva 58, 8200-123
Tel 964 063 481
Closed Mon
This restaurant is best known for
serving ultra-fresh sh and
seafood at reasonable prices. Meat
dishes are available as well.
ALBUFEIRA: Evaristo
Seafood
Map C7
Praia do Evaristo, 8200-903
Tel 289 591 666
Backed by gardens and
overlooking the beach, this
bright, spacious restaruant is
ideal for grilled sh and seafood.
ALMANCIL: A Quinta
International
Map D7
Rua Vale Formoso, 8100-267
Tel 289 393 357 Closed lunch; Sun
This warm, elegant restaurant
oers ne dining in a romantic
setting. The comprehensive
menu is based on the freshest
seasonal ingredients available.
ALMANCIL: Gourmet Natural
Uruguayan
Map D7
Estrada Vale do Lobo, 8135-018
Tel 289 355 271 Closed lunch daily
Housed in a beautiful 18thcentury farmhouse, this
restaurant is famous for its topquality Uruguayan steaks and
dishes such as prawn ceviche.
ARMAO DE PRA: LOasis
Italian
Map C7
Rua Dom Joo II, Lj1 r/c,
Edicio Atlntico IV, 8365-130
Tel 282 312 869
Expect a warm welcome and
high-quality dishes, such as
creative pizzas and home-made
pastas, at this cosy restaurant.
CARVOEIRO: Boneca Bar
Seafood
Map C7
Sitio do Algo Seco, 8401-909
Tel 282 358 391
Tucked away amongst rocks and
caves above the beach, this familyrun restaurant serves great
seafood and cocktails. Try the tiger
prawns or the catch of the day.
412
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
International
Map D7
Rua de Tenoca, 8100-070, Boliqueime
Tel 289 366 458 Closed Sun dinner,
Tue & Sat lunch; Mon
This family-run restaurant serves
an excellent Sunday roast and
creative mains and desserts.
ODIAXERE: Cacto
International
Map C7
Estrada Nacional 125, 8600-250
Tel 282 798 285 Closed Thu lunch;
Wed
Delicious slow-roasted lamb
with garlic and herbs is a menu
highlight here. Book ahead.
Selection of wine bottles lining the walls at Veneza, in Paderne
CARVOEIRO: Hexagone
International
Map C7
Urbanizao Presa de Moura,
Sesmarias, 8400-008
Tel 282 342 485
Closed Sun
The chef at this stylish venue
oers an inventive menu that
caters for vegetarians as well
as sh and meat lovers.
FARO: O Estamin
Seafood
Map D7
Ilha Deserta, 8000-138
Tel 917 811 856
Closed dinner
Take a water taxi to get to this
island restaurant. The trip is well
worth the eort for the views, the
lovely wooden building and the
ultra-fresh seafood.
ESTMBAR: O Alentejano
FERRAGUDO: Sueste
Traditional Portuguese /
Seafood
Map C7
Rua Infante Santo 91, 8400-256
Tel 282 461 592
Closed Mon
There are great views over the
estuary at this quayside eatery
specializing in charcoal-grilled
sh. Expect polished service and
an excellent wine list.
ESTMBAR: O Charneco
LAGOS: No Ptio
International
Map C7
Rua Lanarote de Freitas 46, 8600-605
Tel 282 763 777 Closed lunch; Sun &
Mon
Run by a British couple, this
charming restaurant with a
garden terrace serves perfectly
cooked cuisine. The menu
changes monthly to incorporate
fresh seasonal produce.
FARO: A Taska
French
Map C7
Rua Ilha Terceira 19B, 8600-969
Tel 282 792 151
Closed Mon
Bookings are essential at this
20-seat French bistro. Service
can be a little slow, but the
fare is worth waiting for. Try
the quail salad or duck in
honey sauce.
Portuguese /
International
Map D7
Praa Ferreira de Almeida 15, 8000-156
Tel 289 823 337
The accent here is on classic
Algarvean cuisine. Specialities
include cataplana de peixe (sh
casserole) and aorda de marisco
(seafood and bread stew).
For key to prices see page 398
OLHO: Horta
International
Map C7
Rua Poeta Joao de Deus, 8500-000
Tel 965 839 902 Closed lunch daily
Enjoy a lively atmosphere and
harbour views from the terrace
while tucking into lamb shank,
steak or sea bass. Book ahead.
PORTIMO: Titanic
DK Choice
PRAIA DA GAL: Vila Joya
International
Map C7
Praia da Gal, 8201-917
Tel 289 591 795 Closed DecFeb
One of Portugals nest
restaurants, Vila Joya boasts
two Michelin stars. With a wine
cellar of 12,000 optimally stored
bottles, the perfect wine pairing
with the gourmet cuisine is
guaranteed. Advance
reservations are essential,
especially for non-hotel guests.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
QUINTA DO LAGO: 2
Passos
International
Map D7
Praia do Anco, 8135-905
Tel 289 396 435 Closed dinner (Sep
Nov); DecJun
Tuck into lagosta no pote (lobster
in the pot) or T-bone steak at this
informal, friendly beachside
restaurant with ocean views.
QUINTA DO LAGO:
Casa Velha
French
Map D7
Rotunda 6, Quinta do Lago, 8135-024
Tel 289 394 983
Closed Sun;
lunch daily
A charming restaurant decorated
with colourful paintings and
sculptures. The rustic interior of
the converted old farmhouse
features an open replace, and
there is also a pretty, ower-lled
terrace. The dishes are made with
fresh Mediterranean produce.
VILAMOURA: Oliveira
Dourada
International
Map D7
Rua do Mar 135T, 8125-039
Tel 913 588 0991
Closed TueSat
lunch; Mon
A homely, relaxed restaurant. The
eclectic menu, inuenced by
countries such as India, Mexico,
America and Greece, caters for
almost every taste.
SAGRES: O Telheiro
do Infante
Seafood
Map C7
Praia da Mareta, 8650-361
Tel 282 624 179
Closed Tue
Order the catch of the day,
which will arrive grilled to
your specication, or try
house specialities such as
lobster rice at this restaurant
with impressive ocean views.
SAGRES: Pousada
do Infante
Modern Portuguese
Map C7
Ponta da Atalaia, 8650-385
Tel 282 620 240
This understated restaurant
serves regional dishes with a
twist, including rack of lamb in
muscatel wine and sardines
stued with tomatoes and
herbs. Book ahead.
SILVES: Marisqueira Rui
Seafood
Map C7
Rua Comendador Vilarinho 27,
8300-128
Tel 282 442 682
Closed Tue
A lively, informal restaurant,
Marisqueira Rui is popular with
locals. Try the sapateria (crab) or
the mixed seafood platter. There
is an extensive wine list.
TAVIRA: A Ver Tavira
Modern Portuguese /
International
Map D7
Calada da Galeria 13, 8800-303
Tel 281 381 363
Award-winning chef Samuel Silva
serves gourmet fusion cuisine in
this special setting with river
views. The tasting menu pairs
dishes with appropriate wines.
There are frequent live fado and
jazz evenings.
VILAMOURA: Peppers
Steakhouse
Steakhouse
Map D7
Apartado 65, Marina Vilamoura,
8125-901
Tel 289 303 303 Closed lunch daily
A sophisticated restaurant situated
in the Tivoli Marina hotel. The menu
features impressive steaks as well
as plenty of other options. There
is a superb wine list. Book ahead.
Madeira
CMARA DE LOBOS:
Adega da Quinta
Traditional Portuguese
Quinta do Estreito, Rua Jos Joaquim
da Costa, 9325-039
Tel 291 910 530
This lovely restaurant with
garden and ocean views has a
rustic interior featuring beamed
ceilings. It serves ne regional
cuisine and the wine cellar is
stocked with vintage madeiras.
413
DK Choice
FUNCHAL: Armazem
do Sal
Modern Portuguese
Rua da Alfndega 135, 9000-000
T 291 241 285
Tel
Closed Sat
lunch; Sun
The stone walls and thick wooden
beams of this sophistcated
restaurant are oset with stylish
furnishings. The haute cuisine, a
blend of regional and
international recipes, is on a par
with Michelin standards. An
equally impressive wine list
features sta choices and
vintage labels. Reserve ahead.
FUNCHAL: Barqueiro
Seafood
Centro Commercial Centromar Loja
21, 9000-103
Tel 291 761 229
Enjoy the citys best seafood,
including lapas (limpets) and
ovas de espada (swordsh roe),
in a relaxed, informal ambience.
FUNCHAL: Beerhouse
Modern Portuguese
Avenida Mar, Ponto de So Lzaro,
9000-054
Tel 291 229 011
A simple, modern restaurant with
glass walls and a terrace overlooking the marina. Wash down
the fresh seafood or aorda de
gambas (prawn and bread stew)
with golden rye beer.
FUNCHAL: O Celeiro
Seafood
Rua Aranhas 22, 9000-044
Tel 291 230 622
Closed Sun
One of the oldest restaurants in
the region, O Celeiro is furnished
with dark wood and azulejo tiles.
The reasonably priced menu is
dominated by sh and seafood.
414
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
FUNCHAL: O Jango
Traditional Portuguese
Rua de Santa Maria 166, 9060-291
Tel 291 221 280
Dishes are carefully prepared and
presented at this restaurant with
an African-themed decor and a
varied menu. Try the house steak
or gambas Indiana (prawns).
FUNCHAL: O Tapassol
International
Rua Dom Carlos I, 62, 9000-000
Tel 291 225 023
Reserve a table on the upstairs
terrace of this restaurant for
lovely city views. There are typical
Madeiran dishes as well as many
other options.
FUNCHAL: Dona Amlia
International
Rua Imperatriz Dona Amlia 83,
9000-018
Tel 291 225 784
A pretty restaurant overlooking
tiled rooftops. Dishes such as
gnocchi with lobster and tuna
steak with fettuccini grace the
menu, along with ambed pork
and sh. Book ahead.
International
Rua dos Aranhas 27A, 9000-044
Tel 291 009 000 Closed Sun dinner;
Mon
In a contemporary space with
panoramic views, the gourmet
fare here by a consultant chef
with Michelin credentials
combines international avours
with a French inuence.
FUNCHAL: Riso
International
Rua de Santa Maria 274, 9050-040
Tel 291 280 360
Closed Mon
The menu here is devoted to rice.
In addition to paella, there are
all kinds of imaginative risottos
and other rice-based dishes.
The views of the ocean are
spectacular too.
FUNCHAL: Xpana
Restaurante
International
Travessa do Largo do Choupana,
9060-348
Tel 291 206 020
This hilltop restaurant with views
across the harbour oers rstclass gourmet dining. The chef
fuses French cuisine with Asian
avours, and the wine list is vast.
FUNCHAL: Ristorante
Villa Cipriani
Italian
Estrada Monumental 139, 9000-098
Tel 291 717 171
Closed lunch
The checked tablecloths lend an
informal air to this gourmet
Italian restaurant. Sweeping
ocean views from the terrace
add to the dining experience.
Seafood
Sto de Calheta, Calheta, 9400-001
Tel 291 985 322
Closed Jan
This is a great place to watch
the sunset and enjoy incredibly
fresh sh and seafood dishes,
such as bean and prawn stew.
Call to arrange a hotel pick-up.
PORTO SANTO: Hotel Quinta
do Serrado
Traditional Portuguese
Sto do Pedregal, 9400-010
Tel 291 980 270
This hotel restaurant specializes
in traditional Portuguese dishes
with an Algarvean twist. Try the
pudim de maracuj (passion fruit
pudding) for dessert.
Seafood
Rua Cago Coutinho, Sacadura
Cabral, 9350-217
Tel 291 952 543
A modern, informal restaurant
with an outdoor terrace.
Delicacies such as espetada mista
Seafood
Estrada Padre Antnio Dinis
Henriques I, 9300-261
Tel 291 944 538
Closed dinner
This thatched-roof restaurant,
oering a vast selection of fresh
seafood and regional dishes, can
accommodate dinner bookings
for large groups and visits to the
vineyards by appointment.
SANTANA: Cantinho
da Serra
Traditional Portuguese
Estrada do Pico das Pedras, 9230-107
Tel 291 573 727
Warm colours and a huge
replace give this restaurant a
cosy, welcoming atmosphere.
Hearty regional dishes and
interesting home-made liqueurs
are on the menu.
SANTANA: Quinta do Furo
International
Achada do Gramacho, 9230-082
Tel 291 570 100
The high-ceilinged dining area
features two huge replaces,
while the sheltered terrace oers
stunning views. You can dine in
the vineyard on Wednesdays.
Vegetarian options are available.
The Azores
CORVO: Traineira
Traditional Portuguese
Rua Matriz, 9980-020
Tel 292 596 088
Closed Sun
The dishes oered at this simple
restaurant vary according to
what is available. Starters usually
include enchidos (sausages) and
queijo da ilha (local cheese).
Servings are substantial.
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
FAIAL: Medalhas
Traditional Portuguese
Rua Serpa Pinto 22, Horta, 9900-095
Tel 292 391 026
Closed Sun
This restaurant retains its original
taberna atmosphere and is equally
popular for snacks and full meals.
The menu varies depending on
availability but includes both
meat and sh dishes.
FLORES: Sereia
Seafood
Rua Doutor Armas da Silveira 30,
Santa Cruz das Flores, 9970-331
Tel 292 592 220
This small, friendly restaurant has
been popular with locals and
visitors for many years. Try the
catch of the day or the caldeirada
de peixe (sh and potato casserole).
International
Caminho de Baixo, Lajes do Pico,
9930-177
Tel 292 679 504
Both vegetarians and meat eaters
will nd good options at this
hotel restaurant. Regular buets
feature Chinese or world food as
well as Azorean fare.
PICO: Ancoradouro
Traditional Portuguese
Areia Larga, Madalena, 9950-302
Tel 292 623 490
Closed Wed
A modest restaurant with an
attractive veranda and glorious
views of Faial Island. The morcela
com laranja (black pudding with
orange) is delicious, as are the
seafood and fresh sh dishes.
PICO: Lagoa
Seafood
Largo de So Pedro 2, Lajes do Pico,
9930-136
Tel 292 672 272
Choose between the spacious
dining area or a table in the
street. The imaginative chef makes
good use of fresh ingredients.
415
Traditional Portuguese
Rua do Ramal, Prainha, Sao Roque
do Pico, 9940-062
Tel 292 655 020
Stone walls and a wooden ceiling
give a rustic air to this rural
eatery. Many of the traditional
sh and meat dishes are baked
in the wood-red oven.
Seafood / International
Rua Terno da Igreja s/n, So Pedro
9580-232, Vila do Porto
Tel 296 884 990
Closed OctMay
A favourite with locals, the
specialities at this restaurant
include grilled octopus, sh and
succulent let mignon. There are
also dishes from countries such
as Brazil and Thailand.
Seafood
Rua da Areia 4, Ribeira Grande,
9600-000
Tel 296 472 975
Closed Mon
Choose sh from the display
counter and have it grilled or fried
to perfection. The house speciality
is tigelada de chicharro, a stew
made with thin, sardine-like sh.
SO MIGUEL: Alcides
Traditional Portuguese
Rua Hintze Ribeiro 6777,
Ponta Delgada, 9504-000
Tel 296 282 677
Closed Sun
This unpretentious restaurant
is renowned for its steaks,
especially the house speciality,
bife Alcides. The stylish interior
features brightly painted walls
and stone arches.
SO MIGUEL: O Miroma
Tradtional Portuguese
Rua Dr Frederico Moniz Pereira 15,
Furnas 9675-055
Tel 296 584 422
Closed Wed
Some of the house specialities
here are baked underground,
using heat generated by the
volcanic springs. This is what
makes the unique cozido (stew)
so delicious and popular.
TERCEIRA: Casa do Peixe
Traditional Portuguese
Estrada Miguel Corte Real 30,
Angra do Herosmo, 9700-030
Tel 295 217 678
Closed Tue
Housed in the old sh market,
this modern restaurant serves
traditional sh dishes such as
peixe na telha (sh served on
a roof tile). There are sweeping
views of the bay.
TERCEIRA: Quinta do Martelo
Traditional Portuguese
Canada do Martelo 24, Cantinho,
So Mateus, 9700-576
Tel 295 642 842
Closed Wed
A quaint, rural restaurant that
serves authentic Azorean dishes
such as alcatra (meat stew) and
Sopa do Esprito Santo, a soup of
meat and vegetables in white
wine. Choose from a range of
side dishes. Book ahead.
416
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL
Portugal offers a wealth of tempting goods
at reasonable prices for shoppers. The best
buys include handmade leather goods and
shoes, hand-crafted gold and silver jewellery,
fine porcelain and crystal, glassware, and
high-quality clothes from hand-knitted
sweaters to the latest fashion garments and
designer labels. The appearance of shopping
malls has brought a range of sophisticated
Markets
Opening Hours
Normal shopping hours are
9am1pm and 37pm Monday
to Friday and 9 or 10am1pm
on Saturdays. However, many
shops in the bigger towns and
cities remain open during the
lunch hour and on Saturday
afternoons. The big shopping
centres are open every day,
including Sundays, from 10am
to 11pm or midnight.
Tax-Free Goods
On most goods a 23 per cent
value-added tax (IVA Imposto
sobre o Valor Acrescentado) is
charged in mainland Portugal.
In Madeira and the Azores, the
tax is 21 per cent.
Portugal has more than
1,600 shops affiliated with the
Tax Free for Tourists System,
which can be identified by the
logo of that name. NonEuropean Union visitors are
exempt from IVA, provided that
they stay in Portugal no longer
than 180 days.
Obtaining a rebate in smaller
shops may be complicated; it is
How to Pay
Shopping Malls
Springing up in ever increasing
numbers, large shopping malls
have exerted a big influence on
shopping habits in Portugal.
Lisbons huge Centro Colombo
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL
Ceramics
Antique hand-painted glazed
tiles (azulejos) are highly sought
after and expensive (see p419),
but excellent reproductions
are available in museum
shops such as Lisbons Museu
Nacional do Azulejos (see
pp1245). Azulejos Sant Anna
also produces excellent replicas
of early tiles.
Portugals oldest established
ceramics company is Vista
Alegre Atlantis, which
produces high-quality
porcelain.
If you are visiting Viseu
(see p219), look out for the
beautiful black earthenware
pottery made by a handful
of master potters. Viseu is one
of the last few places where
417
Handicrafts
Portugal is well known for its
delicate embroidery and fine
lace, and the best-known
source is the island of Madeira.
On the mainland, the best lace
and embroidery comes from
towns in the Minho such as
Viana do Castelo, also famous
for its brightly printed shawls.
Embroidered bedspreads are
sold in Castelo Branco in the
Beira Baixa, and colourful
carpets, such as those from
Arraiolos, are sold throughout
the Alentejo.
Popular regional items are
embroidered lovers handkerchiefs (lenos dos namorados) in
the Minho region and the
typical local costume which is
418
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Size Chart
Womens dresses, coats and skirts
Portuguese 34 36 38
40
British
8
10 12
14
American
6
8
10
12
Womens shoes
Portuguese 36 37 38
39
British
3
4
5
6
American
5
6
7
8
Mens suits
Portuguese 44 46 48
50
British
34 36 38
40
American
34 36 38
40
Mens shirts
Portuguese 36 38 39
41
British
14 15 15 16
American
14 15 15 16
Mens shoes
Portuguese 39 40 41
42
British
6
7
7
8
American
7 7
8
8
42
16
14
44
18
16
40
7
9
41
8
10
52
42
42
54
44
44
42
16
16
43
17
17
43
9
9
44
10
10
46
20
18
56
46
46
58 (size)
48 (inches)
48 (inches)
44 45 (size)
17 18 (inches)
17 18 (inches)
45
11
11
46
12
11
Ornately embroidered
womens linen blouses,
fashioned in the regional
style, are available in many
craft shops. Prices are also
reasonable for knitwear and
woollen fishermens sweaters
from Nazar (see p186).
SHOPPING IN PORTUGAL
Antiques
Whether you are a connoisseur
or casual collector, Portugals
antique shops and markets are
bound to have something to
catch your eye. Antique markets
(feiras de velharias) take place in
many regions, usually on
Saturday or Sunday.
There is a steady demand for
rare and unusual antiques,
especially those connected with
Portugals trading links with the
Orient over past centuries:
Japanese lacquer work and
mother of pearl, carvings in
wood and ivory, and religious
icons. Hand-painted tiles,
introduced by the Moors in
419
DIRECTORY
Shopping
Malls
Ceramics
Handicrafts
Napoleo
Azulejos SantAnna
Centro Colombo
Alto Minho
Handicrafts Route
Markets
Feira de
Antiguidades
Estao Oriente,
Lisboa.
Feira de
Carcavelos
Largo Mercado,
Carcavelos.
Feira de Cascais
Placa Mercado Municipal,
Cascais.
Feira de So Pedro
So Pedro Sintra,
Sintra.
Centro de
Artesanato
Largo Dr Jos Novais 27.
Tel 253 811 882.
Porches Pottery
visitportugal.com
Tapetes de Arraiolos
Tv. do Rossio, Voluntrios
7, Arraiolos. Tel 266 419
063. casatapetes
arraiolos.com
Clothing and
Shoes
EN 125 Porches,
Algarve.
Tel 282 352 858.
porchespottery.com
Zara
Vista Alegre
Atlantis
Coisas do Arco do
Vinho
Centro Cultural
de Belm,
Lisboa. Map 1 B3.
Tel 213 642 031.
Solar do Vinho
do Porto
Rua S Pedro de
Alcntara, 45 Bairro
Alto, Lisboa.
Map 7 A3.
Tel 213 475 707.
ivdp.pt
Antiques
Antique Tiles
Solar Rua D Pedro
V 68-70, Bairro Alto,
Lisboa.
Map 4 F2.
Tel 213 465 522.
Arca de So Jos
Rua de So Jos 188,
Lisboa.
Tel 213 548 462.
420
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN PORTUGAL
The traditional love of music, dance and
singing in Portugal is reflected in a vast
range of cultural activities and
entertainment. Theatre, classical and
contemporary music, opera, dance, film
festivals, pop, rock and jazz festivals and
variety shows featuring internationally
renowned performers can be enjoyed in
Information
The tourism boards issue
a free monthly calendar of
programmes, events and
venues. All Portuguese newspapers have a whats on
section. The best weekly guides
in English are in The Resident
(www.portugalresident.com) and
Portugal News (www.the-news.
net), available in the Algarve
with some outlets in Lisbon.
Film
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N P O R T U G A L
421
Bullfighting
Trying to bring the bull to a standstill at the end of a bullght
Carnivals
Celebrated mostly in honour
of the Saints or Our Lady,
Portuguese festivals and carnivals are colourful events with
costumed dancers, decorated
floats and papier mach
models. The most famous is the
Loul Carnival in the Algarve.
Thousands of visitors come to
join in the three days of parades
Nightlife
There is no shortage of places
to enjoy a drink, listen to music
and dance until the early hours
of the morning in a club, disco
or late-night bar. Irish bars are
in vogue for a lively night out
and gay bars have sprung up
in many regions. For nightlife,
Lisbon reigns supreme and
DIRECTORY
Theatre
and Dance
Lisbon Documentary
Film Festival
Algarve Folk
Music and
Contemporary
Dance Festival
Algarve Summer
Festival
visitalgarve.pt
Teatro Rivoli
Praa D Joo,
Oporto.
Tel 223 392 200.
rivoli.bilheteira
online.pt
Film
Lisbon & Estoril
Film Festival
Tel 213 255 800.
leffest.com
Rua Anbal
Cunha 84,
Oporto.
Tel 222 058 819.
fantasporto.com
Classical Music,
Opera and Ballet
Casa da Musica
Av de Boavista 604-610,
Oporto.
Tel 220 120 220.
casadamusica.com
visitalgarve.pt
Carnivals
Centro Cultural
Vila Flor
Festas de Lisboa
Avenida D Afonso
Henrique Guimares. Tel
253 424 700. ccvf.pt
Loul Carnival
festasdelisboa.com
Culturgest
Rua do Arco do Cego 50,
Lisbon. Map 6 D2.
Tel 217 905 155.
Festival de Jazz do
Porto
portorturismo.pt
Nightlife
T-Clube
Quinta do Lago, Almancil,
Algarve. Tel 289 396 751.
Bullfighting
Praa de Touros
rockinrio-lisboa.
sapo.pt
422
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS
Portugal offers an amazing variety of terrain
with sports and leisure activities to match.The
mild climate in the Algarve, Madeira and the
Azores means that many outdoor leisure
pursuits can be enjoyed throughout the year.
Specialist holidays are available for a variety
of activities, including microlight flying,
Information
Regional tourist offices can
provide information on sport
and outdoor activities. In
addition, the following
English language/bilingual
publications provide information: Essential Algarve, Essential
Lisboa, Essential Madeira,
Goodlife Magazine and the
weekly newspapers The
Resident and Portugal News.
Water Sports
Surfing, windsurfing, diving,
water skiing and jet skiing are
popular along the coast and
around the Atlantic islands.
Vilamoura Lda and
Algarvexcite, operating out of
Vilamoura Marina, are leading
Algarve companies offering
specialist holidays. Jet skis,
water skis and wakeboards
(along with powerboats) can
be hired with the services of
expert instructors.
The best beaches for surfing
are on the Lisbon coast at
Guincho and Ericeira. In the
Algarve the long sandy Praia
de Vale Figueiras on the west
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S
423
Flying, Paragliding
and Skydiving
Walking along one of Madeiras levadas (irrigation channels)
Boating
Tour operators in the Algarve,
Madeira and the Azores offer
sightseeing cruises. Specialist
holidays designed especially for
wine buffs are offered by Douro
Azul in the famous winegrowing region in northern
Portugal. The itinerary combines
river trips with journeys on the
old steam engines along
riverside routes that once
transported the wines to the
city of Porto, and include
overnight stays at traditional
wine-growing farms (quintas).
Fishing
The coastline, waterways and
rivers of Portugal offer plenty
of opportunities for fishing,
from angling for trout in the
rivers to big game fishing off
the shores of the Algarve, the
424
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Caving
Whale Watching
The Azores is a prime spot
to see whales and other
cetaceans, such as dolphins,
that are attracted to the warm
waters and abundant food. As
many as 20 different species
have been seen. The whalewatching season lasts from
May to October due to
weather conditions, though
whales inhabit the waters
throughout the year.
Whale-watching holidays as
well as daily expeditions are
offered by Whale Watch Azores,
Futurismo Azores Whale
Watching, Espaotalassa
and Pico Sport Lda.
Climbing and
Mountaineering
Madeiras volcanic origins and
rugged mountain terrain, with
cliff faces rising from the sea,
offer exciting conquests for
experienced climbers. The
favourite areas are the central
mountain range, the sea cliffs
and some of the northern cliffs.
The Azores offers a similar
landscape, and the island of
Pico provides the ultimate
challenge to scale its 2,341m
(7,680 ft) mountain the
highest in Portugal.
Horse Riding
Tennis
Tennis courts are found almost
everywhere in Portugal and
are an integral part of the
facilities in most tourist resorts.
Many resorts also have squash
courts. The larger Algarve
resorts, such as Vale do Lobo,
offer tennis coaching holidays,
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S
425
DIRECTORY
Water Sports
Algarve Dive
Experience
Hotel Tivoli Carvoeiro,
Vale Covo, Algarve.
algarve-scubadiving.com
Algarve Surf
School Camp
Lagos, Algarve.
Tel 282 624 560.
algarvesurf
school.com
Algarvexcite
Vilamoura Marina,
Algarve.
Tel 289 301 884.
algarvexcite.com
Dive Time
Marina de Lagos, Lagos,
Algarve. Tel 309 810 623.
dive-time.net
Surfcamp Algarve
unitedsurf
camps.com
Torpedo Diving
Vilamoura, Algarve.
Tel 289 314 098.
visitalgarve.pt
Vilamoura Marina
8125-409 Quarteira.
Tel 289 310 560.
marinade
vilamoura.com
Sailing and
Canoeing
Federao Portuguesa
de Canoagem
Rua Antnio Pinto
Machado 60, 3, 4100-068
Oporto. Tel 225 432 237.
fpcanoagem.pt
Boating
Douro Azul
Rua de Miragaia 103,
4050-387, Oporto.
Tel 223 402 500.
douroazul.com
Cais Q Escritrio no 3,
Marina de Vilamoura,
Algarve.
Tel 289 301 900.
cruzeiros-daoura.com
Walking
and Cycling
Federao
Portuguesa de Pesca
Desportiva
Mountain Bike
Adventures
Rua Ea de Queirs 3 1,
1050-095 Lisbon.
Tel 213 140 177.
themountainbike
adventure.com
Portugal Walks
Vila do Bispo, Algarve.
Tel 282 697 298.
portugalwalks.com
Sherpa Expeditions
sherpa-walkingholidays.co.uk
Flying,
Paragliding
and Skydiving
Aerodrome Municipal
de Portimo
Montes de Alvor.
Tel 282 496 581.
skydive-algarve.com
Algarve Air
Sports Centre
Aerodrme de Lagos,
Lagos 8601-903,
Algarve.
Tel 914 903 384.
gerrybreen.com
Federao
Portuguesa de
Voo Livre
Av Cidade de
Lourenso Marques,
Modulo 2 Praceta B,
Lisboa.
Tel 218 522 885.
fpvl.pt
Fishing
Lagos Marina
Big Game
Fishing
Lagos, Algarve.
Tel 282 770 210.
marlagos.pt
P 8500-905, Portimo,
Algarve.
biggamefishing.info
Portimo Marina
Big Game
Fishing Azores
Edifcio Admin
Ponta da Areia,
Portimo.
Tel 282 400 680.
marinade
portimao.com.pt
Cruzeiros da Oura
Horta Marina,
Ilha de Faial, Azores.
Tel 914 768 277.
atlanticsportfisheries.com
Instituto Florestal
Avenida de Joo
Crisstomo 26-8,
1069-040 Lisbon.
Tel 213 124 800.
Katherine B
Sportfishing
Madeira.
fishmadeira.com
Madeira Game
Fishing
Tel 291 227 169.
madeiragamefish.
com
Nautisantos Big
Game Fishing
Funchal Marina,
Funchal, Madeira.
Tel 291 231 312.
nautisantos fishing.
com
Turipesca
Madeira.
Tel 291 231 063.
madeirafishing
centre.com
Tennis
Tennis In The Sun
44 Woodcroft Ave,
Mill Hill, London
NW7 2AG.
Tel 0333 566 0045.
tennisinthesun.com
Vale do Lobo
Estrada Vale do Lobo,
Almancil, Algarve.
Tel 289 353 333.
valedolobo.com
Whale Watching
Espaotalassa
Whale Watching and
Study Base, Rua do Saco,
9930 Laje do Pico.
Tel 292 672 010.
espacotalassa.com
Futurismo Azores
Whale Watching
Portas do Mar, Loja 24,
Ponta Delgada.
Tel 296 628 522.
futurismo.pt
Horse Riding
Centro Equestre
Vale do Lima
Quinta da Sobreira,
Ponte de Lima.
Tel 258 943 873.
Gois Valley
Riding Holidays
Cada do Linteiro 3330421, Vila Nova do Ceira,
Gois. Tel 235 778 689.
ridingportugal.com
Pinetrees
Riding Centre
Estrada do Ano,
Almancil.
Tel 289 394 369.
pinetrees
ridingcentre.com
Vale do Ferro
Centro Hippico,
Mexilhoeira Grande,
8500 Portimo.
Tel 282 968 444.
valedeferro.com
Caving
Centro de Estudos
Espeleolgicos e
Arqueolgicos
do Algarve
Faro. Tel 289 823 821.
centroespeleo
logicos.no.sapo.pt
426
TRAVELLERS NEEDS
Southern Portugal
General Information
The majority of Portugals
nearly 60 golf courses are by the
sea, with spectacular scenery.
Along the mainland west
coast and in exposed areas of
western Algarve, the wind
increases as the day progresses,
so golfers wishing to avoid it
should opt for an early start.
The main season runs from
mid-autumn to late spring,
but summer can also be busy.
Always book ahead. Rates
vary from just over 30 to over
150 for a round of 18 holes,
but discounts are available
through tour operators, hotels
and booking services.
Major Tournaments
Portugal currently hosts three
PGA tournaments: the Madeira
Island Open, held at the Santo
da Serra (March); the Open de
Portugal, held in the Algarve or
Lisbon area (March or April); and
the Portugal Masters, first held
at Victoria Vilamoura in October
Northern Portugal
The north is the least developed
in terms of golf courses, though
it was here that golf began in
Portugal when Scottish and
English port shippers founded
the Oporto Golf Club in 1890.
The course is the oldest in the
Iberian peninsula; the par-71
circuit is laid out on sand dunes
by the Atlantic. The Amarante
Golf Club offers a varied par-68
mountain course.
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L I S T H O L I D AY S
427
DIRECTORY
Northern
Portugal
Amarante Golf Club
Quinta da Deveza,
Fregim.
Tel 255 446 060.
Lisbon and
Central Portugal
Oitavos Dunes
Quinta da Marinha.
Tel 214 860 600.
oitavosdunes.com
Penha Longa
Golf Club
Caesar Park
Penha Longa,
Estrada da
Lagoa Azul, Linh.
Tel 219 249 031.
penhalonga.com
Quinta da Marinha
Golf Club
Quinta da Marinha.
Tel 214 860 100.
quintadamarinha.com
Tria Golf
Complexo Turstico de
Tria, Carvalhal.
Tel 265 494 024.
troiaresort.pt
Southern
Portugal
Quinta
do Lago
Almancil.
Tel 289 390 700.
quintadolago.com
San Lorenzo
Quinta do Lago,
Almancil.
Tel 289 396 522.
sanlorenzogolf
course.com
Vale do Lobo
Almancil.
Tel 289 353 465.
valedolobo.com
Vale da Pinta
Madeira and
the Azores
Batalha
Fenais da Luz.
Tel 296 498 559.
azoresgolfislands.
com
Furnas
Achada das Furnas.
Tel 296 584 651.
azoresgolfislands.
com
Palheiro Golf
Stio do Balanal, So
Gonalo. Tel 291 790 120.
palheirogolf.com
Carvoeiro,
Lagoa.
Tel 282 340 900.
pestanagolf.com
Victoria
Vilamoura
Pinheiros Altos
Quinta do Lago, Almancil.
Tel 289 359 910.
pinheirosaltos.pt
Monte Rei
Sesmarias, Algarve.
Tel 281 950 660.
monte-rei.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information
430439
Travel Information
440449
430
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Portugal is an easy country to visit. In
the Algarve and the Lisbon area, where
most tourists go, the choice of hotels,
restaurants and entertainment is vast.
English is widely spoken, and visitors
are welcomed. But even in the less
When to Go
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
431
Opening Hours
Museums are usually open
10am5pm from Tuesday to
Sunday, with many closing for
lunch either noon2pm or
12:302:30pm. Smaller and
private museums may have
different opening times. Most
museums and some sights
close on Mondays and public
holidays. Major churches are
open during the day without
a fixed timetable, although
some may close between
noon and 4pm. Smaller
churches and those in rural
areas may only be open for
religious services, and in some
cases you may need to find the
keyholder for admittance.
Etiquette
432
Women Travellers
Family fun at the Slide and Splash park near Estombar, in the Algarve
by the blue-and-white
wheelchair emblem at the
front of the vehicle).
In addition, Lisbon and
Oporto have a dial-a-ride bus
service (see the Directory for
more details). To book, phone
and indicate when and where
you would like to be picked
up, and your destination.
The operators speak only
Portuguese, so you may need
to ask your hotel for help. There
is also a special taxi service in
Lisbon, but it has to be booked
well in advance.
Portugal-based specialist
tour companies Accessible
Portugal and Ourico do Mar
design holidays for people
who have reduced mobility
or are in wheelchairs.
Senior Travellers
Travellers aged 60 and over can
take advantage of a range of
benefits including discounted
rail travel and reduced
admission fees to many
sightseeing attractions such as
museums, national monuments
and theatres simply by
showing some ID. Buses and
metro trains have designated
seating areas reserved for the
elderly and the infirm, but youll
find that passengers are usually
more than willing to give up
their own seat if necessary.
Student Travellers
Religion
Roman Catholicism is the
dominant religion in Portugal.
Church services are held most
evenings and every Sunday
morning, as well as on religious
holidays. Sightseeing in
churches may sometimes be
difficult (and is certainly not
encouraged) while services
are in progress.
Churches of other
denominations, including
Church of England, Baptist
and Evangelical, can be found
in larger towns and cities. St
Vincents Anglican Church,
which travels from place to
place, holds a number of
religious services in the Algarve.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
Electricity
433
Responsible Travel
Conversion Chart
Imperial to Metric
1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
1 foot = 30 centimetres
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
1 ounce = 28 grams
1 pound = 454 grams
1 pint = 0.6 litres
1 gallon = 4.6 litres
Metric to Imperial
1 millimetre = 0.04 inches
1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
1 gram = 0.04 ounces
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 litre = 1.8 pints
DIRECTORY
Embassies
and Consulates
Tourist Offices
Australia
Largo da Portagem,
3000337, Coimbra.
Tel 239 834 158.
turismodecoimbra.pt
Avenida da Liberdade
200, 2, 1250-147,
Lisbon. Map 5 C5.
Tel 213 101 500.
Canada
Avenida da Liberdade
196200, 3, 1269-121,
Lisbon. Map 5 C5.
Tel 213 164 600.
Republic of
Ireland
Avenida da Liberdade
200-4,1250-147,
Lisbon.
Map 4 F1.
Tel 213 308 200.
United Kingdom
Rua de So Bernardo 33,
1249-082, Lisbon.
Map 4 D2.
Tel 213 924 000.
British Consulates
Azores Tel 213 954 082.
Lisbon Tel 213 924 000.
Oporto Tel 226 184 789.
Portimo Tel 808 203 537.
USA
Avenida das Foras
Armadas, 1600, Lisbon.
Tel 217 273 300.
Coimbra
Faro
Avenida 5 de Outubro
1820, 8001902, Faro.
Tel 289 803 604.
visitalgarve.pt
Lisbon
Lisboa Welcome Center,
Rua do Arsenal 15,
1100-038, Lisbon.
Map 7 A2.
Tel 210 312 700.
visitlisboa.com
Oporto
Rua Clube dos
Fenianos 25, 4000172,
Oporto.
Tel 223 393 470 or
223 393 472.
portoturismo.pt
In the UK:
11 Belgrave Square,
London SW1X 8PP.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
portugaloffice.org.
uk
In the USA/Canada:
Tel 212 599 6262.
Disabled
Travellers
Places of Worship
Accessible
Portugal
Rua de So Jorge
Estrela 6,
Lisbon.
Tel 214 692 303.
St Georges Church
St Jamess Church
Largo da Maternidade
de Jlio Dinis,
Oporto.
Tel 226 064 989.
Lisbon
Synagogue
Rua A. Herculano 59,
Lisbon.
Tel 213 881 592.
St Vincents
Anglican Church
(Algarve)
ouricodomar.com
Apartado 135,
Boliqueime.
Tel 289 366 720.
Student
Information
Responsible
Travel
Instituto Portugus
da Juventude
Blue Flag
Avenida da
Liberdade 194, 1250
Lisbon.
Tel 213 179 200.
juventude.gov.pt/
portal
Center
Ourico do Mar
blueflag.org
center.pt
434
Portuguese Police
Personal Security
What to Do in an
In all main cities and towns,
Violent crime is rare in
Emergency
the police force is the Polcia
Portugal; however, it is worth
de Segurana Pblica (PSP).
taking a few sensible precauThe number to call in an
A special unit
tions. In Lisbon,
emergency is 112. Dial the
patrols the rail
avoid quiet areas number and ask for the service
and metro
such as the Baixa you require police (polcia),
systems. Law and
after dark, and
ambulance (ambulncia) or fire
order in rural
dont stroll alone brigade (bombeiros). If you need
areas is kept by
through Bairro
medical treatment, the casualty
the Guarda
Alto, Alfama or
department (servio de
Nacional
around Cais do
urgncia) of the closest main
Republicana
Sodr after bars
hospital will treat you. On
(GNR). The
closing time.
motorways and main roads, use
Brigada de
Always be
the orange SOS telephone to
Trnsito (traffic
aware of pickcall for help if you have a car
police) division
pockets and
accident. The service is in
of the GNR,
bag-snatchers.
Portuguese; press the button
recognizable by
Similar precand then wait for the operator,
Motorway SOS telephone
its red armbands,
autions apply to
who will connect you.
is responsible for patrolling
some of the resorts in the
roads.
Algarve and to the Ribeira
Health Precautions
district of Oporto.
It is a good idea to ignore
No vaccinations are needed
Reporting a Crime
any jeers and heckles they are for visitors, although doctors
usually not as serious as they
recommend being up-to-date
If you have any property
sound. Other precautions
with tetanus, diptheria and
stolen, contact the nearest
include not carrying large
measles jabs. Tap water is
police station immediately.
amounts of cash, and holding
safe to drink throughout the
Theft of documents, such as a
on to mobile phones and
country. If you are visiting
passport, should also be
cameras. If you are robbed,
during the summer it is
reported to your consulate.
do not try to resist.
advisable to bring insect
Many insurance companies
insist that policy holders
report any theft within
24 hours. The police will file a
report, which you will need in
order to claim from your
insurance company on your
return home. Contact the
PSP in towns or cities, or the
GNR in rural areas. In all
situations, keep calm and be
polite to the authorities to
avoid delays. The same applies
should you be involved in a car
accident. In rural areas you
may be asked to accompany
the other driver to the nearest
police station to complete the
necessary paperwork. Ask for
an interpreter if no one there
GNR ocer
Trac policeman
PSP ocer
speaks English.
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
435
DIRECTORY
Emergency Numbers
AP Portugal
Avenida Joo
Crisstomo 30-5,
1050-127, Lisbon.
Tel 213 303 759.
British Hospital
Torres de Lisboa,
Rua Toms da Fonseca,
1600-209 Lisbon.
Tel 217 213 400.
Fire engine
General Emergency
(Fire, Police, Ambulance)
Tel 112.
Ambulance
Tourist Police
Palcio Foz-Restauradores,
1250-187, Lisbon.
Tel 213 421 623/634.
Police car
repellent, as mosquitoes,
while they do not present any
serious health problems,
can be a nuisance.
Medical Treatment
Social security coverage is
available for all EU nationals,
although you may have to pay
first and reclaim later. To reclaim,
you must obtain a European
health insurance card (EHIC)
before you travel. Apply for this
at post offices throughout the
UK or from the Department of
Health; it comes with a booklet
called Health Advice for Travellers,
which explains entitlements
and how to claim them. The
card covers emergencies only,
so medical insurance is strongly
advised. Bear in mind that
private health care is expensive
in Portugal, and get an itemized
bill for your insurance carrier.
The British Hospital in Lisbon
has English-speaking doctors, as
do health centres on the Lisbon
coast and throughout the
Algarve. For details, look in
the local English press.
Pharmacies
In the event of minor ailments,
head to the nearest pharmacy
(farmcia), where they can
diagnose simple health
problems and suggest
treatment. Pharmacists can
dispense a range of drugs that
are available on prescription in
many other countries. The sign
for a farmcia is a green cross
on a white background. They
are open from 9am to 1pm and
3pm to 7pm on weekdays, and
from 9am to 1pm on Saturdays.
Each pharmacy displays a card
showing the address of the
nearest all-night pharmacy
and a list of those with late
closing (10pm).
436
Travellers Cheques
and Cards
Travellers cheques are a
safe but not very convenient
way of carrying money. It is
DIRECTORY
Major Banks
Banco Bilbao Vizcaya
Argentria
Avenida da Liberdade 222,
Lisbon. Tel 213 117 391.
Banco Portugus de
Investimento (BPI)
Rua Tenente Valadim 284, Oporto.
Tel 226 073 111.
Barclays Bank
Avenida da Repblica 50, Lisbon.
Tel 213 510 000.
Lost Cards or
Travellers Cheques
American Express
Tel 336 393 1111 (USA).
MasterCard
Travelex
Tel 800 205 598 (Portugal).
Visa
Tel 800 811 824 (Portugal).
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
The Euro
437
5 euros
10 euros
20 euros
50 euros
100 euros
200 euros
500 euros
2 euros
1 euro
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: 1 and 2;
50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents and
1 cent. The 1 and 2 coins are both silver and
gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold. The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze.
50 cents
20 cents
5 cents
2 cents
10 cents
1 cent
438
Public Telephones
Public pay phones in Portugal
come in both the coin and
the card variety, as well as in
combinations of the two.
They are found in booths in
the streets as well as in bars,
cafs and shopping centres.
Card operated phones are
more common and more
convenient, accepting a
variety of phone cards
available from post offices,
newsagents, tobacconists
and Telecom company outlets.
They also tend to be cheaper,
with an average of about
3 cents for a local call. Some
also accept credit cards,
although that incurs a
small extra charge.
International calls and calls
to mobile phones are more
expensive, but there are always
special cards and deals to be
found. An alternative is to
make a call from a post office,
if you have neither change or
a card. You simply step into a
free booth, make your call,
and pay the cashier afterwards.
The cost per unit is relatively
low. Some cafs, restaurants
and bars also have a units
meter connected to their
phone and calculate the cost
of your call. They tend to
charge more than the post
office but less than many
of the hotels.
When making international
calls and in particular calls
to mobile phones, it pays to
bear in mind that rates are
lower off-peak between 9pm
and 9am and at weekends
and on public holidays.
Mobile Phones
There are four main GSM
frequencies (Global System
for Mobile Communications)
in use around the world, so if
you want to guarantee that
your phone will work, make
sure you have a quad-band
phone. Tri-band phones from
outside the US are also usually
compatible but, because the
US uses two frequency bands
itself, a US tri-band phone
may only have limited global
coverage. Contact your service
provider for clarification.
To use your mobile phone
abroad you may need to get
permission from your network
operator as often you have to
pay a substantial premium for
the international leg of the call.
Another popular option is
to purchase a local SIM card
the electronic chip that links
your phone to a particular
network that can be topped
up with credit and uses the
local mobile phone networks.
You can only do this if your
Making a
Telephone Call
To make a call within a
town or region, or from one
town or region to another,
dial the nine-digit number
that you require.
To phone Portugal from
abroad dial the Portugal
country code (+ 351), and
then the nine-digit local
number that you require.
To call abroad from Portugal,
dial 00 then the country
code and local number. The
country code for US and
Canada is 1; Ireland is 353;
UK is 44; Australia is 61; and
New Zealand is 64.
Portugals directory
enquiries number is 118
(Portugal enquiries only).
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N
Sending a Letter
439
Newspapers and
Magazines
First-class mail is known as
correio azul and second-class
English-language newspapers
mail is called normal. First-class
printed in Europe are easily
letters are posted in blue
available at large newsagents
postboxes and second-class
on the day of publication,
post in red ones. At post offices
including the American
there may be separate slots
International New York Times.
for national and international
Several other European
mail. There is also an express
newspapers and periodicals
mail service called EMS, and for
are also generally on sale
valuable letters, a recorded
the same day of home
Internet cafs found all over Portugal
delivery service (correio
publication, except following
registado) is available. Stamps
a bank holiday. UK papers
Post office customers can use
(selos) can be bought from
and magazines purchased
NetPost, an Internet facility
abroad are more expensive,
payable per hour using a special post offices or from any shop
displaying the red and white
and some sections, notably
card. Wi-Fi hotspots, found in
Correios sign, and also from
weekend supplements, are
airports and some shopping
vending machines. These are
not included.
malls, enable users to log in on
found in airport terminals
Portuguese daily newspapers
the go, but this facility is not
and in railway stations,
include Dirio de Notcias and
always free. Those using mobile
Pblico, and the leading
phones or laptops should check as well as on the streets
of large towns.
weekly newspaper
with their Internet service
If mailing larger
is Expresso. The
provider (ISP) before departure.
items, using an
weekly Portugal
international courier
News, published
Correios (postal
Postal Services
company such as
on Friday, is the
service) logo
FedEx or DHL may be
countrys main
The postal service in Portugal is
a better option. Both
English-language publication.
known as the ctt Correios. It is
Catering to the expat
reasonably efficient: a letter sent have offices in Lisbon.
population, it provides a range
to a country within the EU should
of news and information about
take five to seven days, and a
Portuguese
Addresses
local events. Listings magazines
letter sent to the USA or further
available include the weekly
afield should take about seven
Portuguese addresses often
Time Out Lisbon, published in
to ten days. The Correios sign
include both the storey of a
Portuguese. A special edition,
depicts a horse and rider in red.
building and the location
Lisbon for Visitors, is printed in
Post offices are usually open
within that floor. The ground
English. The Algarve Resident is
from 9am until 6pm from
floor is the rs-do-cho (r/c),
a widely distributed magazine
Monday to Friday. Central
first floor primeiro andar (1),
that carries news and details
post offices in major cities
the second floor is expressed
of upcoming events.
have different opening times.
as 2, and so on. Furthermore,
These are 8am10pm from
each floor is divided into left,
do
Monday to Friday and
esquerdo (E or Esq ), right,
Radio and Television
9am6pm on Saturdays.
direito (D or Dto).
In Portugal there are two stateowned television channels
Information on
Portugals Postboxes
First-class
RTP1 and RTP2 and two
collection times
First-class letters should be posted
postbox
privately owned channels
in blue (Correio Azul) boxes and
SIC and TVI. Most foreignsecond-class letters in red boxes.
language programmes are
broadcast in the original
Second-class language, with Portuguese
postbox subtitles. Other European
and international broadcasts
are available via satellite and
cable, and include the usual
24-hour news, music, sports
and feature channels.
The Algarve based Kiss
FM is the only station that
broadcasts year-round in the
English language; RDP radio
broadcasts in English in the
summer only.
440
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Portugal, Madeira and Porto Santo, as well
as the major Azorean islands, have airports
served by TAP, the national airline. European
and other airlines fly to the international
airports of Lisbon, Oporto, Faro and Funchal,
which all get busier during the holiday
season. Charter flights are often the
cheapest alternative. Portugals mainland
rail network is fast and modern on busy lines
such as LisbonOporto and LisbonFaro,
but slow on provincial lines. Trains are
Green Travel
Portugals provincial rail system
is not very extensive, and many
railway stations are located
some distance away from the
towns and villages they serve.
A private vehicle is therefore
necessary to explore much of
the country beyond major cities
and main tourist zones. Likewise,
without your own transport, it is
difficult to travel around Madeira
properly; in the Azores it is
almost impossible. Buses and
coaches are the alternatives,
but off the beaten track they
can be slow and infrequent.
Cycle tourism is gaining
popularity. A designated cycle
route, the 240-km (150-mile)
Ecovia in the Algarve, connects
Vila Real de Santo Antnio in
the east with Sagres in the
west. Hikers fare better, since
Portugal enjoys an extensive
network of tracks, trails and
footpaths. The Instituto
Geogrfico do Exrcito sells
good large-scale maps. The
countrys leading environmental organization, Quercus,
arranges guided walks in
parts of the country and is
involved in a number of
ongoing eco projects.
Fuel-efficient houseboats can
be hired to explore the Alqueva
reservoir in the Alentejo, the
largest man-made lake in
Europe. This option does away
with the need for a vehicle, and
passengers can travel around
the lakes 1,200-km (745-mile)
shoreline with minimal
disruption to the environment.
Arriving by Air
Air Fares
Airport
Information
Distance to City
Centre
Taxi Fare to
City Centre
Public Transport
to City Centre
Lisbon
7 km (4 miles)
1215
@ 20 minutes
Oporto
20 km (12 miles)
18 20
@ 30 minutes
Faro
6 km (4 miles)
1012
@ 15 minutes
Funchal
18 km (11 miles)
20 24
@ 30 minutes
Ponta Delgada
3 km (2 miles)
78
@ 10 minutes
Horta
10 km (6 miles)
8 10
@ 15 minutes
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
441
Internal Flights
TAP also flies between major
domestic destinations,
including Lisbon, Oporto,
Faro and Funchal, and from
Lisbon to So Miguel, Terceira
and Faial in the Azores. TAP
also code-shares these
destinations with SATA.
Long-Haul Flights
Package Deals
Travellers from North America
will usually have to change at a
Specialist holidays are a popular
European hub. TAPs only direct
option in Portugal. These
flights are from Newark to
include stays in manor houses
Lisbon. United Airlines also runs and pousadas (see pp3845),
short breaks to Lisbon and
a daily direct service between
Newark and Lisbon. Delta flies to Oporto, tennis and golfing
holidays in the Algarve, and
Lisbon via Paris (using a partner
walking holidays in the Minho.
airline) daily. South America is
These, together with package
better served, thanks to
deals including hotel,
Portugals ties with
villa or apartment
Brazil: TAP has direct
accommodation, will
flights to and from
often include bus transfer
several Brazilian
to your destination from
destinations.
the airport. Fly-drive
There are no direct
deals are also available,
flights to mainland
to the Algarve especially,
Portugal from Canada,
allowing you to spend
Australia or New
Signs at the airport
less time at the airport
Zealand; travellers
for visitors facilities
dealing with paperwork.
from these countries
usually change in London. North Car hire, when booked as part
of a package deal, may be very
Americans visiting the Azores
reasonable. A list of companies
and Madeira will find a greater
specializing in these holidays is
choice of direct connections,
available from the Portuguese
due to the large Azorean and
Madeiran communities in the
National Tourist Office
US and Canada.
(Turismo de Portugal).
DIRECTORY
Green Travel
Ecovia (cycle routes)
ecoviasalgarve.org
Houseboats
amieiramarina.com
Instituto Geogrfico do
Exrcito
Tel 218 505 300.
igeoe.pt
Quercus
quercus.pt
Arriving by Air
British Airways
London Tel 0844 4930 787.
easyJet
easyjet.com
Monarch
monarch.co.uk
Ryanair
ryanair.com
Long-Haul Flights
Delta
delta.com
United Airlines
united.com
Internal Flights
SATA
Ponta Delgada. Tel 707 227 282.
TAP
Lisbon Call Centre.
Tel 707 205 700.
Package Deals
Portuguese National Tourist
Office
11 Belgrave Square, London
SW1X 8PP.
Tel 020 7201 6666.
442
Travelling by Rail
The Portuguese state railway, Comboios de Portugal (CP),
provides an inexpensive, country-wide network. Quality
of service can vary considerably, however, and while
modernization to the system continues, progress is slow.
The Alfa Pendular trains between Lisbon and Oporto, via
Coimbra, and Lisbon and Faro, via Tunes, are fast and
efficient, but for longer journeys, such as Lisbon to vora,
it may be quicker to take the bus.
Travelling by Train
Most areas of Portugal are
served by rail, although the
High-speed Alfa Pendular train at Santa
more remote lines, such as Tua
Apolnia station in Lisbon
to Mirandela, have sadly been
City Stations
made obsolete, due to new
Carved arch over entrance to Lisbons Rossio road links. A bus service covers
Lisbon has four rail termini.
any gaps in the system,
station (see p86)
Santa Apolnia station, on
although it is wise to confirm
Avenida Infante Dom Henrique,
Arriving by Train
that the service you require
serves the north and all
exists before setting off.
international destinations.
There are two main routes into
There are several categories
Portugal by train. The first is to
Oriente, by the Expo site,
of train in Portugal. The most
travel overnight from Austerlitz
Parque das Naes, is on the
station in Paris, changing at Irn comfortable and quickest is the
same line as Santa Apolnia
modern Alfa Pendular, which
on the French-Spanish border,
and serves the south. Entretravels between
then continuing on to the
campos, in the
Portuguese border town of Vilar Lisbon, Coimbra
city centre, also
and Oporto, and
Formoso in the north. The train
serves the south.
Lisbon, Tunes and
splits near Coimbra, heading
For more routes
Faro. The Rpido
north for Oporto and south for
south and east,
Inter-Cidades (IC) is
Lisbon, coming into Santa
Logo for Comboios de
cross the river
only marginally
Apolnia station. The entire
Portugal
(taking a ferry from
journey from London to Lisbon, slower, although less
Terreiro do Pao)
using the Eurostar to reach Paris, luxurious, and connects most
to catch a train from Barreiro.
important towns and cities.
takes 30 hours.
Trains for Estoril and Cascais
Most smaller towns and villages (a 30-minute trip) leave from
An alternative is to travel on
the overnight train from Madrid, throughout the country are
Cais do Sodr station. The
served by the Regional and the
passing through Marvo and
suburban Fertagus line runs
Inter-Regional lines. These local
Santarm, then on to Lisbon.
south across the river to stations
lines are slower than the Rpido along the Lisbon coast.
Travel from Madrid to Lisbon
and Alfa Pendular, with fewer
takes 10 hours. This train, called
Rossio station, near Praa dos
facilities, but they stop at many
the hotel-train, has luxurious
Restauradores, serves Sintra and
more stations.
carriages, some with showers.
stations along the coast as far
north as Figueira da Foz. Care
should be taken on the Lisbon
to Sintra line at night.
Coimbra has two mainline
stations: trains from Lisbon and
Oporto stop at Coimbra B, a
five-minute shuttle ride from
the central Coimbra.
Oporto has two mainline
stations: international and longdistance trains come into
Campanh, to the east of the
city; regional and suburban
trains come into So Bento in
the centre. From here there is a
shuttle service to Campanh
station. The former rail station at
Trindade is now a Metro station.
Exterior of station at Santiago do Cacm with azujelo decoration
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
Time
Destination
Platform
Type of train
Other remarks
Fares
443
Buying Tickets
Tickets for Alfa and Rpido (IC)
trains can usually be booked
up to 30 days ahead, although
some services only offer 10-day
advance bookings, so it is
important to check first.
Reservations can be made at
stations or travel agents. If you
want to buy a ticket the day you
travel, arrive early as queues at
the ticket office are normal,
especially during peak hours and
holiday periods. It is important
that you buy a ticket before
boarding, otherwise you are
liable to be fined on the spot by
the conductor. If buying your
ticket online via CPs website
(in English and Portuguese),
note that youll have to print
out the ticket in colour to
present it with your passport.
Timetables
Main stations in Portugal
provide a complete rail
timetable, the Guia do Horrio
Oficial, which details all routes
for Alfa Pendular, IC, InterRegional and Regional trains.
A section in Portuguese only
has details of the tickets and
discounts that are available.
The CP website displays all
travel information including
a countrywide timetable.
DIRECTORY
Railway Stations
Comboios de Portugal
Tel 808 208 208 or +352 707 201
280 (outside Portugal).
cp.pt
Coimbra/Faro/Lisbon/
Oporto
All stations served by:
Tel 808 208 208 or +352 707 201
280 (outside Portugal).
444
Driving in Portugal
Portugals road network includes an expanding motorway
system, but some older main roads may be in need of repair,
while minor roads can be very rough and tortuous. Traffic
jams are a problem in and near cities. Never attempt driving
in the rush hour, and be wary of reckless Portuguese drivers.
Always carry your passport, licence, log book or rental
contract, and car insurance. Failure to produce these
documentos if the police stop you will incur a fine. Its
obligatory for drivers and passengers to don green
fluorescent vests following a breakdown or an accident.
In addition, drivers must carry a collapsible warning triangle
in the trunk to be used in the event of such an emergency.
Arriving by Car
The quickest route is to cross
the FrenchSpanish border at
Irn and then take the E80 via
Valladolid to Vilar Formoso in
Portugal. To go to Lisbon or
the Algarve, turn off at Burgos,
head for Cceres and then on
to Badajoz.
Taking the car ferry to
northern Spain from the UK
reduces time on the road, but
crossings are extremely long:
24 hours to Santander and
35 hours to Bilbao. Brittany
Ferries travels to Santander,
leaving from Plymouth once a
week and Portsmouth twice
a week throughout the year.
Brittany Ferries also operates
a route from Portsmouth to
Bilbao twice a week. There are
currently no car ferry services
operating between Madeira
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
Parking
Finding a parking space in
cities can be difficult. Most
parking spaces in Lisbon and
Oporto are now pay-anddisplay during the working
week. A simpler and safer, if
more expensive, alternative is
one of the many underground
car parks. Follow the blue
signs with a white P.
445
Breakdown
Services
There is a reciprocal breakdown
service between
the ACP and other
organizations. To
qualify, drivers
should take out
European cover
with their own
organization. On
A motorway toll the left lane reserved for users of the
the motorway, use Via Verde system
the SOS phones,
and state that you are entitled
Peso do Rgua to Pinho in
to ACP cover. For drivers
the Douro.
without cover, most towns have
For breathtaking mountain
a garage with breakdown lorry.
scenery in Madeira, head
northwest out of Funchal,
and follow the narrow hairpin
Car Hire
ER107 to Curral das Freiras, in
Car hire agencies may be found the heart of the island.
The R1-1 coastal road
at Lisbon, Faro and Oporto
encircling Pico, in the Azores,
airports and in main towns.
allows you to take in both a
Local firms usually offer better
stark, majestic landscape and
rates than international ones,
the Atlantic Ocean.
but check the condition of the
car and the insurance coverage
carefully. You must have an
DIRECTORY
international driving licence,
Arriving
by Car
be over the age of 23 and
have held a licence for at
Autotrain
least one year.
Tel 0844 848 4050.
Brittany Ferries
Petrol (gasoline)
Petrol is relatively expensive,
and generally the same price
countrywide. Diesel (gasleo)
is cheaper than petrol. Some
pumps are self-service and
colour-coded: green for unleaded and black for diesel.
Road Numbers
Roads in Portugal may
have up to three
different numbers.
Thanks to a building and
upgrading programme,
former EN or Estrada
Nacional roads can also
be IP (Itinerrio Principal)
roads. A road with an
E (Estrada Europeia)
number indicates
that it is also a direct
international route.
Great Drives
Breakdown Services
ACP
Tel 213 180 100 or 707 509 510.
Car Hire
A.A. Castanheira/Budget,
Lisbon
Tel 210 323 605.
budgetportugal.com
Budget, Oporto
The roads
original EN
number
(Estrada
Nacional).
Europcar, Faro
Tel 289 891 650 or 289 818 777.
europcar.com
Sixt, Lisbon
Tel 217 998 701. sixt.com
446
Travelling by Coach
Since the privatization of Portugals bus network, the
Rodoviria Nacional (RN), coach companies have multiplied,
and some routes are now even run by foreign companies.
Regional operators compete with each other to offer better
services to more destinations, and as a result, many coach
journeys, such as Lisbon to the Algarve, are quicker and often
more comfortable than the equivalent train journeys. Coaches
also cover the increasing number of defunct sections of
railway, such as MirandelaBragana and BejaMoura.
DIRECTORY
London
Eurolines
A Rodonorte coach, which covers the far north of the country
Getting to Portugal
by Coach
Travelling to Portugal by coach is
cheap but very time-consuming.
Eurolines runs a weekly summer
service from Victoria Coach
Station in London to Oporto.
Passengers change in Area Suco
in central Spain, and the journey
takes 34 hours in total. The
London-to-Lisbon service, which
runs all year, takes even longer.
Passengers change in Paris and
spend two nights on the coach.
Travelling
Around by Coach
Coach operators in Portugal
include Renex, which links
Faro, Lisbon, Oporto and Braga,
and EVA, which focuses on
the Algarve. Rodoviria de
Lisboa connects Lisbon with
Estremadura. In Vila Real,
Rodonorte covers the extreme
north, and Rede Expressos,
based in Oporto, covers the
inland areas of Portugal.
There is no central coach
station in Lisbon and Oporto,
as companies are private and
operate separately, but the main
coach terminus in Lisbon is on
Avenida Casal Ribeiro. In Oporto,
the main departure and arrival
points are at Rua das Carmelitas
Coach Tours
Bus, coach and minibus tours
around Lisbon and Oporto are
plentiful. Cityrama runs sightseeing tours of Lisbon and its
coast, and day trips to sights
such as Batalha, Sintra and
Mafra. It also offers a night-time
tour of the city, taking in the
Jernimos monastery and then
dinner with a fado show. From
Oporto, it runs tours of the
Minho and Douro valleys, and a
six-day trip to Lisbon. Gray Line,
part of Cityrama, also offers day
Northern Portugal
Rede Expressos
Praa Marechal Humberto
Delgado, Estrada das Laranjeiras,
1500-423 Lisbon.
Tel 213 581 427/707 223 344.
rede-expressos.pt
Renex
R Campo Mrtires da Ptria 37,
Oporto. Tel 222 003 395.
renex.pt
Rodonorte
Rua D. Pedro de Castro, Vila Real.
Tel 259 340 710.
rodonorte.pt
Lisbon
Cityrama/Gray Line
Avenida Joo XXI 78,
1000-304 Lisbon.
Tel 213 191 090.
cityrama.pt
Renex
Gare do Oriente.
Tel 218 956 836.
Rodoviria de Lisboa
Avenida do Brasil 45.
Tel 217 928 180.
Algarve
EVA
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
Around Madeira
Island Hopping
TAP flies several times a day
between Funchal and Porto
Santo in the Madeira group; on
the Azores, flights are operated
by SATA (see p441). Flights to
Flores and Corvo are often
disrupted by bad weather,
so for extensive island hopping
it is a good idea to insure
against delays. SATA flights
should be confirmed at least
72 hours before take-off.
Porto Santo Line runs a daily
car ferry service between
Madeira and Porto Santo.
Regular car ferry services
connect all the islands of the
Azores except Corvo, which is
served by passenger ferry, and
are run by Atlanticoline. Its also
possible to explore the waters
surrounding Madeiras Ilhas
Desertas by boat, then join a
guided tour on land. Madeira
Wind Birds offers full-day cruises
with departures from Canial.
447
Companies such as
Intertours and Blandy
organize coach trips. Taxis
can be hired, but car
rental is far more flexible
(see p445). Book ahead
and allow plenty of time
for travel: roads are steep
and tortuous. Motor way
extensions along the south coast
have cut journey times
considerably, but many places
are still accessible only on foot.
DIRECTORY
Madeira
Blandy
Avenida Zarco 2, Funchal.
Tel 291 200 600.
Intertours
Avenida Arriaga 30, Funchal.
Tel 291 208 900.
intertours.com.pt
Azores
Agncia Aoreana de
Viagens
Ferry Services
Atlanticoline
Tel 296 304 310.
atlanticoline.pt
Corvo
Key
Graciosa
Flores
Flight routes
So Jorge
Faial
Pico
Terceira
Ferry routes
So Miguel
Ponta
Delgada
0 kilometres
0 miles
100
100
Santa Maria
448
Travelling in Lisbon
and Oporto
The interesting parts of most towns and cities in Portugal
generally the centr histrico are small and eminently
walkable, if you have both the time and inclination. In hilly
cities such as Oporto and, particularly, Lisbon, the steep
climbs can be avoided by using a choice of options such as
centenarian tram, funicular or lift. Other cities are well served
by buses, trolleybuses and taxis. Transport of any kind is best
avoided during rush hour (810am and 5:307:30pm).
Buses
Bus Tours
Lisbon Metro
Lisbons Metro network has four
lines, mainly on the north-south
axis, and is divided into zones. It
is the most efficient way to get
around, especially during rush
hour (810am and 5:30
7:30pm). The Metro operates
between 6:30am and 1am.
Tickets are bought from
machines or ticket offices at
the station and are sold as
reusable Viva Viagem cards.
Each card will expire after one
year and has an initial cost of
0.50. Cards must be validated
on entering the platform area
by passing them over an
electronic scanner to open
Tickets in Lisbon
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
DIRECTORY
The re-usable
Andante Gold
Card is a
straightforward
and convenient
choice for visitors.
In addition to
the initial cost
of 5, the card
can then be
charged
according to how
many zones will
be crossed. The
Lisbons Elevador da Glria ascending to the Bairro Alto
Porto Card for 1,
2 or 3 days gives access to the
the gate, indicated by a green
light. Exiting the station requires entire public transport network
and entrance to many top
the same procedure.
attractions. Cards are validated
When purchasing your cards
by scanning machines.
you should always keep the
receipt as you may need to
present it when changing the
Taxis
card, or if it is damaged. Fines
for travelling without a valid
Taxis are relatively inexpensive,
card are severe, so make sure it
and if you share the cost, it
is in a safe and accessible place.
sometimes works out cheaper
than a bus. A green light
indicates that the taxi is
Oporto Metro
available; two green lights mean
Oportos Metro network is in fact that the higher rate is being
charged (10pm6am daily,
a light railway system with five
weekends and public holidays),
lines that extend well beyond
one that the normal rate
the city centre, through several
applies. From behind, the lights
zones. The hub is Trindade
glow counter-intuitively red.
station, which is linked to the
Occupied taxis have their
airport. The Metro operates
rooftop taxi signs switched
between 6am and 1am.
Smart tickets (Andante Cards) on. A flat rate of 1.60 is charged
for any luggage placed in the
can be bought from stations
trunk.The starting rate for a taxi
and at Andante shops and
kiosks for an initial cost of 0.50. hailed in the street or at a taxi
Cityrama
Av. Joo XXI 78, 1000-304 Lisbon.
Tel 213 191 090.
Radio Taxis
Autocoope (Lisbon)
Tel 217 932 756.
Raditxis (Oporto)
Tel 225 073 900.
Metro
Lisbon call centre
Tel 213 500 115 (MonFri).
metrolisboa.pt
Ameixoeira
Reboleira
Odivelas
Amadora Este
Aeroporto
Moscavide
Senhor
Roubado
Lumiar
Oriente
Alfornelos
Pontinha
Carnide
Telheiras
Colgio
Militar/Luz
Alto dos
Moinhos
Laranjeiras
Jardim Zoolgico
Praa de
Espanha
Key
Quinta
das Mouras
Campo
Grande
So
Sebastio
Parque
Linha azul
Cabo
Ruivo
Cidade
Universitria
Alvalade
Entre
Campos
Roma
Campo
Pequeno
Olivais
Chelas
Bela Vista
Areeiro
Olaias
Saldanha
Alameda
Picoas
Arroios
Marqus de Pombal
Anjos
Linha amarela
Linha verde
Avenida
Rato
Intendente
Martim Moniz
Linha vermelha
Restauradores
Cais do Sodr
449
Rossio
Baixa-Chiado
Terreiro
do Pao
Santa
Apolnia
450
GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to
main entries
A
Abbeys see Monasteries and
convents
Abd al Rahman 46
Abrantes 194
restaurants 403
Abrantes, Marqus de 106
Absolutists 41
Accessible Portugal 383
Addresses (house numbering)
439
Adoration of the Magi (Gro
Vasco) 52, 219
Adoration of St Vincent
(Gonalves) 99, 1001
Afonso I, King see Afonso
Henriques
Afonso II, King 42, 175
Afonso III, King 42, 48
deposes Sancho II 48
Estremoz 306
Faro 48, 332
Leiria 187
Monsaraz 313
Vila Nova de Gaia 253
Afonso IV, King 42
murder of Ins de Castro 185
Porto de Ms 186
tomb of 76
war with Pedro I 49
Afonso V, King 42
captures Arzila 50
marriage 181
Monument to the Discoveries
(Lisbon) 111
Palcio de Dom Manuel (vora)
311
portrait of 101
Afonso VI, King 43
deposed 55
Palcio Nacional de Sintra 164
Afonso, Dom (son of Joo I) 282
Afonso, Jorge 174
Apparition of Christ to the Virgin
64
Afonso Henriques (Afonso I), King
42
Alcobaa 148, 184
Battle of Ourique 46, 47
Battle of So Mamede 47
Crquere 255
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 163
GENERAL INDEX
Algarve (cont.)
regional food 2945
restaurants 41113
vernacular architecture 267
Algarve Music Festival 34
Alij 14, 259
restaurants 406
Aljezur 17, 324
Aljubarrota, Battle of (1385) 148,
286
Batalha 188, 189
history 50
All Saints Day 36, 37
Almancil 330
hotels 3934
restaurants 411
Almanor, River 307
Almeida 221, 222
hotels 389
restaurants 404
Almeida, Antnio de 56
Almeida, Leopoldo de, statue of
Joo I 87
Almeida family 194
Almeirim 196
restaurants 403
Almendres 298
Almograve 318
Almohad dynasty 47, 48
Almondo, River 195
Almoravid dynasty 47
Almourol, Castelo de 195
Alpiara 196
Alte 17, 321, 329
hotels 394
Alte, River 329
Alter do Cho 302
Alter Real horses 302
Alto Alentejo, climate 39
Alto das Caravelas 261
Alto da Memria 371
Alto do Trevim 215
Alto do Velo 261
lvares, Baltasar 54
lvares Fagundes, Joo 280
Alves, Diogo 126
Alvito 313
restaurants 410
Alvito, Baro de 313
Alvor 327
Amarante 14, 2545
festivals 35
hotels 391
restaurants 406
Amarante, Carlos 284
451
452
GENERAL INDEX
B
Baal, Abbot of 265
Baa de So Loureno 370
Bairrada
what to eat 1523
wines 323
Bairro Alto and Estrela (Lisbon)
12, 90101
area map 91
hotels 387
restaurants 399400
Street-by-Street map 923
Baixa and Avenida (Lisbon) 67,
829
area map 83
hotels 3867
restaurants 3989
Street-by-Street map:
Restauradores 845
Baixo Alentejo, climate 39
Balces 357
Baleal 180
hotels 388
Ballet 420, 421
Bandarra (Gonalo Anes) 220
Banking 4367
Barbarian invasions 45
Barbizon School 95, 121
Barcelos 279, 417
festivals 34, 232
hotels 392
legend of Barcelos cock 279
restaurants 408
Barcelos, Count of 257
Barragem de Bravura 327
GENERAL INDEX
C
Cabea da Neve 218
Cabea do Velho 224
Cabeceiras de Basto 287
Cabo Carvoeiro 180
Cabo Espichel 169
Cabo Giro 363
Cabo da Roca 156, 160
Cabo de So Vicente 11, 17, 325
Cabral, Ferno 223
Cabral, Gonalo Velho 368
Cabral, Pedro lvares
Belmonte 223
discovery of Brazil 52
Monument to the Discoveries
(Lisbon) 111
tomb of 197
Cabral, Sacadura 60
Cabral family 223
Cabril, River 261
Cacela Velha 323, 336
Cachorro 375
453
454
GENERAL INDEX
Castles
Abrantes 194
Alandroal 306
Alcoutim 337
Aljezur 324
Alter do Cho 302
Alvito 313
Arraiolos 307
Beja 317
Belmonte 223
Border Castles Tour 222
Bragana 2645
Castelo de Almourol 195
Castelo de Arouce 215
Castelo de Guimarres 286
Castelo Lindoso 276
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 163
Castelo do Queijo (Oporto) 252
Castelo de So Filipe (Setbal)
174
Castelo de So Joo Baptista
371
Castelo de So Jorge (Lisbon)
12, 65, 801
Castelo de Vide 301
Castro Marim 337
Celorico da Beira 221
Chaves 262
Elvas 303
Estremoz 306
voramonte 307
Fortaleza (Peniche) 180
Fortaleza de Santa Catarina
(Portimo) 328
Fortaleza de So Tiagro
(Funchal) 353
Forte da nsua (Foz do Minho)
272
Forte Ponta da Bandiera (Lagos)
326
Forte de So Brs (Ponte
Delgada) 368
Forte de So Joo Baptista
(Berlenga Grande) 180
Forte de So Joo Baptista do
Foz (Oporto) 13, 252
Fortifications of Elvas 303
Forts, Valena do Minho 272
Leiria 187
Loul 330
Marvo 300
Mrtola 319
Mogadouro 267
Monsanto 2267
Monsaraz 313
Montalegre 262
Montemor-o-Novo 307
GENERAL INDEX
Castles (cont.)
Montemor-o-Velho 205
Moura 316
bidos 49, 181
Palmela 172
Penamacor 226
Penedono 220
Penela 214
Pombal 187
Porto de Ms 186
Redondo 306
Sabugal 226
Santa Catarina fortress (Figueira
da Foz) 205
Santa Maria da Feira 204
Serpa 48, 316
Sesimbra 172
Silves 11, 328
Sines 318
Sortelha 226
Tavira 336
Terena 22
Torre do Galo (Freixo de Espada
Cinta) 267
Torres Novas 195
Torres Vedras 199
Viana do Alentejo 313
Vila Nova de Milfontes 318
Vila Viosa 305
Walls, vora 311
Castro, Fernando de, Casa-Museu
Fernando de Castro (Oporto)
252
Castro Guimares, Conde de 168
Castro Laboreiro 10, 276
Castro Marim 337
Catarina, Queen (wife of Joo III)
109
tomb 109
Catarina de Bragana see
Catherine of Bragana
Cathedrals
Angra do Herosmo 371
Aveiro 206
Braga 282
Coimbra 209, 210
vora 309, 310
Faro 3323
Funchal 13, 351, 352
Guarda 223
Idanha-a-Velha 227
Lamego 257
Leiria 187
Lisbon 65, 76
Mirando do Douro 266
Oporto 12, 49, 242, 244, 246
Portalegre 301
Cathedrals (cont.)
Setbal 174
Silves 329
Vila Real 261
Viseu 219
Catherine of Bragana
Convento de So Paulo
(Redondo) 306
marriage 55, 305
Porta da Rainha (Buaco) 217
Catherine the Great (Empress)
118
Catholic Church 24, 432, 433
Cavaco Silva, Anbal 43, 61
Cavaleiros (bullfighters) 1501
Caves
Furna do Enxofre (Graciosa) 373
Grutas e Centro do Vulcanismo
de So Vicente 362
Grutas do Escoural 312
Grutas das Lapas 195
Grutas de Mira de Aire 186
Parque Natural das Serras de
Aire e Candeeiros 186
Caving 424, 425
Cedar Tunnel (Casa de Mateus)
261
Celorico de Basto 287
hotels 392
Celorico da Beira 221
hotels 390
Celtiberian tribes 44
Celts 44
Minho 269
Terras de Basto 287
Cemeteries
Cimitrio dos Judeos (Faro) 334
English Cemetery (Lisbon) 97
Central Portugal 146227
Beiras 20027
Estremadura and Ribatejo 176
99
golf 426, 427
horsemanship and bullfighting
1501
Lisbon Coast 15475
map 1489
regional food 1523
wine 153
Centro de Arte Moderna (Lisbon)
122
Centro Colombo (Lisbon) 116,
128, 129, 130
Centro Cultural de Belm
(Lisbon) 110, 130, 131
Centro de Educao Ambiental
de Marim (near Olho) 335
455
456
GENERAL INDEX
Churches (cont.)
Bom Jesus do Monte 10, 14, 56,
230, 2845
Capela dos Ossos (Campo
Maior) 302
Capela da Rainha Santa
(Estremoz) 3067
Capela de So Pedro de
Balsemo (Lamego) 257
clothing in 431
Dolmen-chapel of Pavia 307
Dolmen-chapel of So Brissos
312
Ermida de So Jernimo
(Lisbon) 113
Igreja do Carmo (Faro) 334
Igreja do Carmo (Lisbon) 12, 93,
94
Igreja do Carmo (Oporto) 248
Igreja dos Clrigos (Oporto)
247
Igreja do Colgio (Funchal) 350
Igreja dos Congregados
(Oporto) 247
Igreja da Graa (Lisbon) 77
Igreja de Jesus (Setbal) 174
Igreja Matriz de So Loureno
(Almancil) 330
Igreja Matriz (Machico) 356
Igreja Matriz (Viana do Castelo)
281
Igreja da Memria (Lisbon) 113
Igreja da Misericrdia (Oporto)
246
Igreja do Mosteiro (Lea do
Bailio) 252
Igreja de So Gonalo
(Amarante) 255
Igreja de So Martinho de
Cedofeita (Oporto) 249
Madre de Deus (Lisbon) 29, 125
Nossa Senhora dos Aflitos
(Elvas) 303
Nossa Senhora da Agonia
(Viana do Castelo) 281
Nossa Senhora da Assuno
(Elvas) 303
Nossa Senhora da Conceio
Velha (Lisbon) 28, 89
Nossa Senhora da Graa (vora)
309
Nossa Senhora da Lapa (Arcos
de Valdevez) 273
Nossa Senhora do Monte 354
Nossa Senhora de Oliveira
(Guimares) 286
Nossa Senhora da Peneda 276
Churches (cont.)
Nossa Senhora da Piedade
(Loul) 331
Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres
(Beja) 317
Nossa Senhora dos Remdios
(Lamego) 257
Nossa Senhora dos Remdios
(Lisbon) 73
Saint Vincents Anglican Church
432
Santa Clara (Oporto) 245
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211
Santa Cruz do Castelo (Lisbon) 81
Santa Engrcia (Lisbon) 75
Santa Luzia (Lisbon) 72
Santa Maria (Lagos) 326
Santa Maria de Belm (Lisbon)
102
Santo Antnio (Lagos) 327
Santo Antnio S (Lisbon) 77
Santurio de Nossa Senhora do
Cabo (Cabo Espichel) 169
Santurio de Nossa Senhora da
Lapa 220
Santurio de Nossa Senhora da
Piedade 215
So Bento (Bragana) 265
So Clemente (Loul) 331
So Domingos (Lisbon) 85
So Francisco (vora) 310
So Francisco (Guimares) 287
So Francisco (Oporto) 13, 247
So Frutuoso de Montlios
(Braga) 45, 283
So Joo de Tarouca 257
So Miguel (Lisbon) 73
So Pedro (Faro) 334
So Roque (Lisbon) 93, 94
So Vicente (Bragana) 265
So Vicente de Fora (Lisbon) 54,
74
see also Cathedrals; Monasteries
and convents
Churchill, Winston 363
Churrasqueira restaurants 396
Cidade, Museu da (Lisbon) 123
Cincia, Museu da Histria
Natural e da (Lisbon) 86
Cifka, Wenceslau 99
Cima da Conegliano 120
Cinema 420, 421
Lisbon 130, 131
Cinfes 255
Cistercians
Alcobaa 184
Convento de Arouca 204
GENERAL INDEX
Constitutionalists 41
Consulates 433
Contemporary Art, National
Museum of (Lisbon) see Museu
Nacional de Art
Contempornea Museu do
Chiado
Convents see Monasteries and
convents
Conversion chart 433
Cook, Captain James 376
Cordoaria Gardens (Oporto) 13,
242
Corelli, Arcangelo 99
Corgo, River 261
Cork 319
Corpus Christi 37
Correia, Dom Paio Peres 336
Corte Real, Gaspar 52
Coruche 177, 198
Corvo 377
restaurants 414
Costa, Jorge da, Archbishop of
Lisbon 101
Costa, Jos da 324
Costa, Manuel de 170
Costa da Caparica 169
hotels 388
Costa Nova 201, 207
vernacular architecture 26
Costa e Silva, Jos da 95
Costanza, Infanta of Castile 185
Costumes
Costume in the Minho 232
Museu Nacional do Traje
(Lisbon) 127
Coudelaria de Alter 302
Coutinho, Gago 60
Covadonga, Battle of (722) 46
Covilh 225
Crafts
markets 417
shops 129, 417, 419
Cranach, Lucas the Elder 100
Crato 301
hotels 393
restaurants 410
Credit cards 436
in restaurants 397
in shops 416
Crime 4345
Cripta Arquolgica do Castelo
(Alccer do Sal) 175
Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116
Croft (port shippers) 234
Cromlech of Almendres 312
Cromlech of Xerez 313
D
Da Gama, Paulo 370
Da Gama, Vasco 110, 199, 318
Angra do Herosmo 370
birthplace 318
cenotaph 75
expeditions 41, 51, 523
Monument to the Discoveries
(Lisbon) 111
Os Lusadas (Cames) 194
So Gabriel (flagship) 333
statues of 318
tomb of 108
Vidigueira 316
Dal, Salvador 218
Damascus, Caliphate of 46
Dance 420, 421
Lisbon 1301
stick dancing 233
Do, wine 323, 153, 203
David, King of Israel 247
Delacroix, Eugne 196
Delgado, General 61, 317
Della Robbia, Andrea, St Leonard
98
Delors, Jacques 25
Deslys, Gaby 216
O Desterrado (Soares dos Reis)
248
Deu-la-Deu Martins 273
Deville, Antoine 221
Dia 25 de Abril 37
Dia dos Rapazes 233
Dia de Reis 233
Dia da Restaurao 37
Dia do Trabalhador 37
Dialling codes 438
Diana (Houdon) 118, 121
Dias, Bartolomeu 52, 199
Dinis, Jlio 205
Dinis, King 42
Alcobaa 184
Campo Maior 302
457
458
GENERAL INDEX
E
Eanes, Gil
expeditions 52
Lagos 326
Sagres 326
Earthquake, Lisbon (1755) 56,
667
Easter 34, 232
Economy 223
Edla, Countess Elise 167
Edward III, King of England 51
Edward VII, King of England 117
Eiffel, Gustave 88
Dona Maria Pia railway bridge
(Oporto) 59, 248
Eira do Serrado 360
Eleanor of Aragon 101
Electricity 433
Elevador do Carmo (Lisbon) see
Elevador de Santa Justa
Elevador da Glria (Lisbon) 84,
448
Elevador de Santa Justa (Lisbon)
12, 65, 88, 93, 448
Elvas 11, 16, 291, 3023
Elvas (cont.)
festivals 36
fortifications 303
hotels 393
map 303
restaurants 410
War of Independence 545
Email 4389
Embassies 433
Embroidery, shops 417
Emergencies 434, 435
England, Joo Is alliance with 501
English Cemetery (Lisbon) 97
Enrique II, King of Castile 337
Enrique, Prince of Castile 204
Entertainment 4201
fado 25, 689
Lisbon 1301
Epiphany 37
Ericeira 159
hotels 388
Ermelo 261
Ermida de So Jernimo (Lisbon)
113
Eschwege, Baron von 166
Escola Portuguesa de Arte
Equestre (Lisbon) 150
Escola de Rendas (Vila do Conde)
278
Espao Cultural Museu
Municipal de Portalegre 301
Espao Talassa (Faial) 376
Espadacinta 267
Espigueiros (granaries) 230, 277
Espinho, hotels 391
Essex, Earl of 332
Estdio Jos Alvalade (Lisbon)
131
Estdio da Luz (Lisbon) 131
Estado Novo (New State) 60
Estalagens (inns) 380
Esteves, Pedro 286
Estoi 17, 331
hotels 394
restaurants 4012
Estoi, Viscount of 331
Estombar, restaurants 412
Estoril 1689
festivals 36
hotels 388
restaurants 4012
Estrada de Escarpa 173
Estreito de Cmara de Lobos 36
Estrela district (Lisbon) see Bairro
Alto and Estrela
Estrela, Serra da see Serra da
Estrela
F
Fabri, Francesco 84, 86
Factory, sugar (Calheta) 362
Fado 25, 689
O Fado (Malha) 69
Faial 3389, 366, 376
hotels 395
restaurants 415
Faj Grande 377
Fajzinha 377
Falperra 283
Family life 24
Fantasporto (Oporto) 37
Farinha, Monte 287
Faro 11, 17, 291, 3324
airport 440
history 48
hotels 394
map 333
railway station 443
restaurants 412
tourist information office 433
under Moorish rule 467
Farol 335
Ftima 24, 190
hotels 389
pilgrimages 34, 36
restaurants 403
GENERAL INDEX
Ftima (cont.)
vision of Virgin Mary 60, 190
Feira de Antiguidades (Lisbon)
128, 129, 417, 419
Feira de Carcavelos 417, 419
Feira de Cascais 417, 419
Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 75, 417,
419
Feira Medieval de Silves 35
Feira Nacional da Agricultura
(Santarm) 35
Feira Nacional do Cavalo (Goleg)
36
Feira de Outubro (Vila Franca de
Xira) 36
Feira de So Mateus (Elvas) 36
Feira de So Pedro (Sintra) 417,
419
Feiras Novas (Ponte de Lima) 36
Felipe I, King see Philip II, King of
Spain
Felipe II, King see Philip III, King of
Spain
Felipe III, King see Philip IV, King of
Spain
Ferdinand the Great, King of
Castile 208, 220
Ferdinand of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha
(Dom Fernando II) 121, 167
Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra) 163
Palcio da Pena (Sintra) 166
Parque da Pena 61
Fernandes, Ins 223
Fernandes, Mateus 189
Fernandes, Vasco see Gro, Vasco
Fernandine Wall (Oporto) 245
Fernando I, King 42
death 48, 189
vora 311
Fernandine Walls (Oporto) 245
marriage 49
Monsaraz 313
peace of Alcoutim 337
Fernando II, Dom see Ferdinand
of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha
Ferno, Infante 101
Ferragudo, restaurants 412
Ferreira, Adam Gonalves 354
Ferreira, Eve Gonalves 354
Ferries 444, 445
Azores 447
Fervena, River 231, 265
Festa da Coca (Mono) 35
Festa do Colete Encarnado (Vila
Franca de Xira) 35, 198
Festa das Cruzes (Barcelos) 34,
232
459
460
GENERAL INDEX
G
Gainsborough, Thomas 121
Galapos 173
Galleries see Museums and
galleries
Gardens see Parks and gardens
Garrett, Joo Almeida 95, 249
Geology of the Azores 3445
Geraldo Sem-Pavor 310
captures cities from Almohads
47
Monsaraz 313
Gers Mountains 276
Germain, Franois-Thomas 101
Germanic tribes 445
Geysers, Furnas do Enxofre
(Terceira) 371
Ghirlandaio, Domenico 120
Ghirlandaio, Ridolfo, Christopher
Columbus 363
Gil, Augusto 223
Gilo, River 336
Gilbert of Hastings 76
Gildemeester, Daniel 161
Gimonde, restaurants 406
Giusti, Alessandro 158
Goa 50, 51, 52, 53, 61
Gis, Damio de 199
Goleg 196
festivals 36
hotels 389
Golf
golfing holidays in Portugal
4267
Madeira Islands Golf Open 34
Open Golf Championship 36
Gomes, Antnio, Tree of Jesse
(Oporto) 247
Gomes, Diogo 52
Gonalo of Lagos, So 326
Gonalves, Andr 204
Gonalves, Nuno 111
Adoration of St Vincent 99,
1001
Gothic architecture 51
Manueline architecture 28
Gouveia, restaurants 405
H
Hadrian, Emperor 302
Hapsburg dynasty 43
Health 4345
Health insurance 435
Hemingway, Ernest 354
Henrique, Cardinal-King 43, 54,
310
Henrique, Infante Dom see Henry
the Navigator
Henry of Burgundy 47
Castelo de Guimares 286
S (Braga) 282
tomb of 282
Henry the Navigator (Infante
Dom Henrique) 53
Cabo de So Vicente 325
Casa do Infante (Oporto) 13,
246, 248
cenotaph 75
GENERAL INDEX
Hotels (cont.)
children in 383
disabled travellers 383
Douro and Trs-os-Montes
3912
Estremadura and Ribatejo 3889
gradings 381
hotel chains 3801, 383
Lisbon 3867
Lisbon Coast 3878
Madeira 395
Minho 392
penses 380, 381
pousadas 380, 383, 3845
prices 381
resort accommodation 382
types of hotel 380
Houdon, Jean-Antoine, Diana
118, 121
House of Avis see Avis, House of
Houseboats 440
Huguet 188, 189
Huston, John 356
I
Iberians 44
Idanha-a-Velha 227
Idrisi (Arab geographer) 328
Igreja see Churches
Ilha do Pessegueiro 318
Ilha de Tavira 11, 293, 336
Ilhus das Cabras 364
Imprios of the Holy Spirit 372
Impressionists 121
India 50, 52, 53, 61
Vasco da Gama 110
Ins de Castro 49
children 51
marriage 265
murder of 49, 185, 209
Santa Clara-a-Velha (Coimbra)
211
tomb of 1845
Inquisition 51, 54, 55
Coimbra 208
vora 310
Rossio (Lisbon) 87
Insurance
health 435
travel 435
International Chocolate Festival
(bidos) 34
Internet 4389
Interpreters 435
Iria, Santa 191, 197
Iron Age 445
Citnia de Briteiros 287
J
James, St 47
Japan 53, 55
Jardim see Parks and gardens
Jardim-Horto Cames
(Constncia) 194
Jazz 4201
Jazz em Agosto (Lisbon) 35
Lisbon 1301
Jean de Rouen
Santa Cruz (Coimbra) 211
S (Guarda) 223
Torre de Anto (Coimbra) 209
Jerome, St 1089
Jernimos monastery (Lisbon) 64,
104, 1089
Jervis, Admiral 325
461
Jesuits
vora 310
expulsion from Portugal 57
Santrem 197
So Roque (Lisbon) 94
S Nova (Coimbra) 210
Jewellery shops 417
Jews
Bragana 265
Castelo de Vide 301
Cemitrio dos Judeus (Faro) 334
expulsion from Portugal 50
Guarda 223
Museu Luso-Hebraico de
Abraham Zacuto (Tomar) 191
Tomar synagogue 191
Trancoso 220
Joana, Santa 206
Joanes, Domingues 218
Joo I, King 42, 501
alliance with England 501
Batalha 188
Battle of Aljubarrota 50, 189, 286
becomes king 48, 50
birth 279
Chaves 262
defeats Castilians 50
Guarda 223
House of Avis 501
Nossa Senhora da Oliveira
(Guimares) 286
Palcio Nacional de Sintra 164
Palmela 172
regency 49
statues of 85, 87
tomb of 189
Joo II, King 42
Conspiracy of the Nobles 50
death 325
Elvas 303
and the House of Bragana 305,
310
maritime expansion 53
portrait 101
Silves 329
Vaina do Alentejo 313
Joo III, King 42, 51, 191
Convento da Madre de Deus
(Lisbon) 124
Convento de Cristo (Tomar) 192
Crato 301
Igreja da Graa (Coimbra) 208
tomb of 109
and Vasco da Gama 110
Joo IV, King 43, 223
death 55
vora 311
462
GENERAL INDEX
K
Karl I, Austro-Hungarian Emperor
354
Kings and Queens 423
Knights Hospitallers 218
Knights of the Order of Christ see
Order of Christ
Knights of Santiago
Albufeira 329
Carcela Velha 336
Palmela 172
Silves 328
Knights Templar 177, 191
Convento de Cristo 1923
Idanha-a-Velha 227
Mogadouro 267
Monsaraz 313
Penamacor 226
Pombal 187
Santiago do Cacm 318
Tomar 1903
see also Order of Christ
L
La Fontaine, Jean de 74
Lace 417
Escola de Rendas (Vila do
Conde) 278
Lagar de Varas do Fojo (Moura)
316
Lagos 11, 17, 290, 3267
history 50
hotels 394
restaurants 412
Lajes 365
Lajes do Pico 3745
Lalique, Ren 118
Lalique Collection (Museu
Calouste Gulbenkian) 121
Lamas de Mouro 276
Lamas de Olo 261
Lamego 2567
festivals 36
hotels 391
restaurants 406
Landscape and flowers of
Madeira 3423
Language 245, 431, 47980
Largo do Chafariz de Dentro
(Lisbon) 73
Largo do Chiado (Lisbon) 92
Largo da Porta de Moura (vora)
311
Largo das Portas do Sol (Lisbon)
12, 72
Laurence, St 330
Lavatories, public 431
Le Meridien 383
Leandros, River 225
Lea do Bailio 252
Lea da Palmeira, restaurants 407
Legal assistance 435
Leiria 15, 187
history 48
hotels 389
restaurants 403
Leo X, Pope 89
Len and Castile, Kingdom of 46
Leonardo da Vinci 196
Leonor, Queen (third wife of
Manuel I) 51
Leonor, Queen (wife of Joo II)
Caldas da Rainha 181
Convento da Madre de Deus
(Lisbon) 124
emblem 181
Nossa Senhora da Assuno
(Faro) 333
statue of 89
Leonor Teles 49
Levada do Risco 361
Levada da Rocha Vermelha 361
Levadas of Madeira 360
Lezria 198
Licences, driving 445
Lima, River 230, 233, 273, 278
Lindoso 276, 277
Lines of Torres Vedras 199
Linhares 225
Linhas de Elvas, Battle of (1658)
545
Lino, Ral 31, 196
Lis, River 187
Lisboa see Lisbon
Lisbon 10, 15, 22, 62145
airport 440
Alfama 7081
Bairro Alto and Estrela 90101
Baixa and Avenida 829
Belm 10213
earthquake 56, 567
entertainment 1301
facilities for the disabled 4312,
433
festivals 35, 421
Further Afield 11427
golf 426, 427
history 48, 49
hotels 3867
maps 19, 645
railway stations 4423
Reconquest 47
regional food 1523
restaurants 398401
GENERAL INDEX
Lisbon (cont.)
shopping 1289
Street Finder 13245
tourist information office 431
travelling in 4489
Two Days in Lisbon 12
Lisbon Coast 15475
climate 38
hotels 3878
map 1567
restaurants 4013
Lisbon and Estoril Film Festival
421
Lisbon Story Centre 89
Listings magazines 130
Lobo, Silvestre Faria 171
Lodi, Fortunato 87
Lombo dos Reis 362
Long-haul flights 441
Lopes, Armindo Teixeira 252
Museu Municipal Armindo
Teixeira Lopes (Mirandela) 263
statue of Ea de Queirs
(Lisbon) 92
Lopes, Carlos 117
Lopes, Gregrio 100, 190, 194
Lopes, Joo the Elder 280
Loreto (Madeira) 362
Loul 17, 3301
festivals 34, 37, 421
hotels 394
restaurants 412
Lourosa 218
Lous 21415
Loveletters of a Heartsick Nun
317
Low-cost airlines 441
Ludovice, Joo Federico see
Ludwig, Johann Friedrich
Ludwig, Johann Friedrich
Palcio de Mafra 158
S (vora) 310
Solar do Vinho do Porto
(Lisbon) 96
Lus I, King 43, 59
Cascais 168
Palcio Nacional da Ajuda
(Lisbon) 113
Lus Felipe, Prince
assassination 59, 89
tomb of 74
Luna family 280
Lusitani tribe 44
Lusitania 445
Luso 215
hotels 390
M
Macao 50, 53, 61
Machado de Castro, Joaquim 100
Baslica da Estrela (Lisbon) 97
Museu Nacional Machado de
Castro (Coimbra) 211
So Vicente de Fora 74
S (Lisbon) 76
statue of Jos I 57, 88, 89
Machico 356
Machim, Robert 356
Madalena 374
Madeira 22, 34663
climate 38
crafts 417
festivals 36, 37
golf 427
hotels 395
landscape and flowers of
Madeira 3423
levadas 360
Madeira wine 355
map 18, 3489
Rabaal walks 361
restaurants 41314
travel 447
Two Days in Madeira 13
Madeira Islands Golf Open 34
Madeira Wine Rally (Funchal) 35
Madre de Deus, convent of
(Lisbon) 29, 1245
Me dgua das Amoreiras
(Lisbon) 126
Me Soberana (Loul) 34
Mafalda, Princess 204
Mafra 158
Palcio de Mafra 567, 158
Mafra School of sculpture 56, 97
Magalhes, Ferno de (Ferdinand
Magellan) 52
birthplace 259
Monument to the Discoveries
(Lisbon) 111
Magalhes, Teresa 122
Magazines 439
listings magazines 130
Magellan, Ferdinand see
Magalhes, Ferno de
O Magrio 220
Maia, Manuel da 122
Mail services 439
Maiolica, azulejo tiles 30, 124
Malha, Jos 123, 196
The Drunkards 59
O Fado 69
Malveira 158
463
464
GENERAL INDEX
Maps (cont.)
Beaches of the Algarve 2923
Beiras 2023
Border Castles Tour 222
Braga 283
Bragana: the Citadel 2645
Buaco 21617
Castelo de So Jorge (Lisbon)
801
Central Portugal 1489
Coimbra 2089
Douro and Trs-os-Montes
2401
Elvas 303
Estremadura and Ribatejo
1789
Europe 19
vora 3089
Faro 333
Funchal 3501
Iberian Peninsula in 27 BC 44
Iberian Peninsula in 1100 46
Iberian Peninsula in 1200 48
Iberian Peninsula in 1500 50
Islands, Portugals 3401
Lisbon 645
Lisbon: Alfama 71
Lisbon: Bairro Alto and Estrela
91
Lisbon: Baixa and Avenida 83
Lisbon: Belm 103
Lisbon: Further Afield 115
Lisbon: Greater Lisbon 19
Lisbon: Metro system 449
Lisbon: Street Finder 13245
Lisbon: Street-by-Street: Alfama
723
Lisbon: Street-by-Street: Bairro
Alto and Chiado 923
Lisbon: Street-by-Street: Belm
1045
Lisbon: Street-by-Street:
Restauradores 845
Lisbon Coast 1567
Madeira 18, 3489
Megaliths Tour 312
Minho 2701
Northern Portugal 2301
Oporto 2423
Oporto: Street-by-Street:
Cathedral District 2445
Parque Nacional da PenedaGers 2767
Port Country Tour 2589
Port region 234
Porto Santo 349
Portugal 1819
Maps (cont.)
Pousadas of Portugal 3845
Rabaal Walks 361
Railway lines 443
Ria de Aveiro 207
So Miguel 3689
Serra da Arrbida 173
Serra da Estrela 2245
Serra de Sintra Tour 1601
Sintra 163
Southern Portugal 2901
Viana do Castelo 2801
Vila Nova de Gaia 253
Wine Regions of Portugal 32
Marble, in the Alentejo 306
Mardel, Carlos 126, 211
Margem Sul (Lisbon) 116, 155
Maria I, Queen 43, 74, 101,
171
Baslica da Estrela (Lisbon) 97
exile in Brazil 56
Palcio de Queluz 57, 1701
royal brig 110
tomb of 97
Maria II, Queen 43, 166, 167
Angra do Herismo 371
Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II
(Rossio) 87
Maria, Dona (wife of Manuel I)
109
Maria Pia di Savoia 113, 164
Marialva 220
Marialva, Marqus de,
horsemanship 1501
Marianas window (Beja) 317
Marine life in the Azores 375
Marionettes, Museu da Marioneta
(Lisbon) 95
Marisqueira restaurants 396
Maritime Museum (Lisbon) 110
Markets 128, 129, 41617
Barcelos 279
Feira da Ladra (Lisbon) 75, 417,
419
Malveira 158
Mercado dos Lavradores 353
Marta, Francisco 190
Marta, Jacinta 190
Martin, St 249
Martinhal 292, 326
Martins, Deu-la-Deu 273
Martins, Dona Teresa 278
Martins, Manuel 330
Marvan 300
Marvo 11, 16, 291, 300
hotels 393
restaurants 410
Mary, Virgin
Ftima 60, 190
Santurio de Nossa Senhora da
Lapa 220
Massna, General 199, 221
Master of the Sardoal 194, 211,
310
Two Bishop-Saints 309, 310
Matches, Museu dos Fsforos
(Tomar) 191
Mateus, Casa de 2601
Mateus, Morgado de 260
Mateus ros wine 32, 260
Matisse, Henri 317
Matosinhos 252
Mealhada 215
restaurants 405
Measurements, conversion chart
433
Meca 199
Media and communication
4389
Medical treatment 435
Medieval Portugal, A Tour of 11,
16
Megaliths
Megaliths Tour 312
Monsaraz 313
Meia Praia 293, 327
Melgao 273
hotels 392
Melides, Lagoa de 318
Memling, Hans 100
Mendes, Ferno 264
Mendona, Bishop Joo de 227
Meneses, Duarte de 197
Menhir of Almendres 312
Menhir of Bulha 313
Menhir of Outeiro 313
Menino Jesus (Arganil) 215
Menino Jesus da Cartolinha
(Miranda do Douro) 266
Menus 3967
Mercado dos Lavradores
(Funchal) 13, 353
Mrtola 11, 16, 319
restaurants 411
Meso Frio 256
hotels 391
Methuen Treaty (1703) 56
Metro (Lisbon) 4489
MFA (Movimento das Foras
Armadas) 61
Mid-Atlantic Ridge 3445, 374
Miguel, Infante 56
Miguel, King
abdication 307
GENERAL INDEX
465
466
GENERAL INDEX
GENERAL INDEX
N
Nabo, River 179
Napoleon I, Emperor 334
invasion of Portugal 41
Peninsular War 58
Nasoni, Niccol
Bom Jesus (Matosinhios) 252
Casa de Mateus 260
Igreja dos Clrigos (Oporto) 247
Igreja dos Clrigos (Vila Real)
261
National Parks, Parque Nacional
da Peneda-Gers 10, 14, 269,
270, 2767
National Tile Museum (Lisbon)
301, 65, 1245
National Tourist Agencies 383
NATO 60
Natural History Museum (Lisbon)
86
Nature reserves
Parque Natural do Alvo 240,
261
Parque Natural de Montesinho
241, 266
Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
11, 17, 335
467
O
bidos 10, 15, 24, 179, 1801,
1823
hotels 389
restaurants 404
vernacular architecture 26
bidos, Lagoa de 181
bidos Castle 49
Oceanario de Lisboa (Lisbon) 12,
123
Odemira 297
468
GENERAL INDEX
Ourm 190
hotels 389
Ourique, Battle of (1139) 46, 47
Outdoor activities 4227
Outeiro Machado Boulder 263
Ovar 2045
festivals 37
P
P&O 445
Pacheco, Lopo Fernandes 76
Package deals 441
Pao, see also Palaces
Pao dArcos, restaurants 402
Pao de Sousa 254
Paderne, restaurants 412
Padro (stone crosses) 523, 87,
11011
Padro dos Descobrimentos
(Lisbon) see Monument to the
Discoveries
Pais, Gualdim
Castelo de Almourol 195
Penamacor 226
Tomar 190
tomb of 191
Pais, Sidnio 60
Palaces
Bussaco Palace 29, 32, 216
Carrancas Palace (Oporto) 248
Pao Ducal (Vila Viosa) 291,
3045
Pao dos Duques (Guimares)
286
Palacete S Sotto Mayor (Viana
do Castelo) 280
Palcio de Belm (Lisbon) 105,
106
Palcio da Bolsa (Oporto) 13, 246
Palcio de Brejoeira 273
Palcio dos Condes da Calheta
(Lisbon) 107
Palcio dos Duques de Cadaval
(vora) 310
Palcio de Estoi 331
Palcio Foz (Lisbon) 84
Palcio Fronteira (Lisbon) 127
Palcio de Mafra 567, 158
Palcio dos Marqueses de
Ponte de Lima (Ponte de Lima)
278
Palcio Nacional da Ajuda
(Lisbon) 113
Palcio Nacional de Sintra 148,
162, 1645
Palcio da Pena (Sintra) 1667
Palcio Pimenta (Lisbon) 123
Palaces (cont.)
Palcio de Queluz 31, 57, 148,
1701
Palcio de So Bento (Lisbon) 97
Palcio de So Loureno
(Funchal) 350
Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 162
Palmela 172
festivals 36
hotels 388
restaurants 402
Paragliding 423, 425
Parking 445
Parks and gardens
Buaco 21617
Casa de Mateus 231, 2601
Cordoaria Gardens (Oporto) 13,
242
Jardim Botnico (Coimbra) 211
Jardim Botnico (Funchal) 13,
352
Jardim Botnico (Lisbon) 86
Jardim Botnico da Ajuda
(Lisbon) 113
Jardim Botnico Tropical
(Lisbon) 105, 107
Jardim Episcopal (Castelo
Branco) 227
Jardim da Estrela (Lisbon) 97
Jardim do Monte 354
Jardim Municipal (Angra do
Herosmo) 371
Jardim do Palcio de Cristal
(Oporto) 249
Jardim das Portas do Sol
(Santarm) 197
Jardim de Santa Barbara (Braga)
2823
Jardim do Ultramar (Lisbon) see
Jardim Agrcola Tropical
Jardim Zoolgico (Lisbon) 126
Madeiras gardens 3423
Monserrate 161
Monte Palace Tropical Gardens
354
Palcio de Estoi 331
Palcio Fronteira (Lisbon) 127
Palcio de Queluz 171
Parque Arqueolgico do Vale
do Ca 267
Parque Eduardo VII (Lisbon) 12,
114, 117
Parque da Liberdade (Sintra) 162
Parque do Monteiro-Mor
(Lisbon) 127
Parque do Moucho (Tomar)
191
GENERAL INDEX
469
470
GENERAL INDEX
Q
Queda do Vigrio 329
Queima das Fitas (Coimbra) 34,
213
Queirs, Ea de 25, 59
Coimbra University 212
statue of 92
Queluz, Palcio de 31, 57, 1701
hotels 388
restaurants 402
Quinta da Alorna 196
Quinta da Avelada 254
Quinta da Bacalhoa (Serra da
Arrbida) 30, 173
Quinta das Cruzes (Funchal) 13,
352
Quinta do Lago 427
restaurants 413
Quinta da Marinha Golf Club 426,
427
Quinta da Pacheca 256
Quinta do Palheiro Ferreiro 353
Quinta da Regaleira (Sintra) 162
R
Rabaal (Beiras) 214
Rabaal (Madeira), Rabaal Walks
361
Radio 439
Radio taxis 449
Railways 4423
Raphael 100
Rates 278
Realists 121
Rebelo, Domingos 368
Reconquest, Christian 467, 48
Redondo 306
hotels 393
restaurants 411
Regeneration 58
Rgio, Jos, Museu Jos Rgio
(Portalegre) 301
Rego, Paula 122
Rgua see Peso da Rgua
Reguengos de Monsaraz 313
Reis, Carlos 195
Religion 432
festivals of the North 2323
Holy Spirit festivals 372
see also Cathedrals; Churches;
Monasteries and convents
Relvas, Carlos, Museu de
Fotografia Carlos Relvas
(Goleg) 196
GENERAL INDEX
471
S
Sabor River 241
Sabrosa 259
hotels 392
Sabugal 226
Sado, River 175
birds of the Tagus and Sado
estuaries 175
Safety 4345
women travellers 432
Sagres 11, 17, 322, 326
hotels 394
restaurants 413
Sailing 4223, 425
St Jerome (Drer) 98, 100
St Leonard (della Robbia) 98
St Peter (Gro Vasco) 219
Saint-Lger, Comte de 317
Salazar, Antnio 22, 41, 43
Beja 317
Belm (Lisbon) 104
car 218
Castelo de So Jorge (Lisbon)
80
Cristo Rei (Lisbon) 116
New State 60
Pao dos Duques (Guimares)
286
Ponte 25 de Abril (Lisbon) 116
retires 61
Salt
Alcochete 169
Aveiro 2067
Salvi, Nicola 94
Sana Hotels 383
Sancha, Dona 264
Sanches, Rui 122
Sancho I, King 42, 48
Bragana 264
Coimbra 210
gold cross 49, 101
Guarda 223
Marialva 220
Montemor-o-Novo 307
Palmela 172
tomb of 211
Valena do Minho 272
Sancho II, King 42
Crato 301
deposed 48
472
GENERAL INDEX
Sesimbra (cont.)
restaurants 402
Sete Fontes (So Jorge, Azores) 373
Seteais 161
Setbal 174
hotels 388
restaurants 402
wines 323
Severa, Maria 68
Seyrig, Tefilo 59
Sheepdog of the Serra 225
Shoe shops 418, 419
Shopping 41619
antiques 419
ceramics 417
clothing and shoes 418, 419
crafts 417
how to pay 128, 416
Lisbon 1289
opening hours 128, 416
regional produce 419
shopping malls 128, 129, 416, 419
VAT and taxes 128, 416
wines and spirits 418, 419
Silva, Felipe da, Tree of Jesse
(Oporto) 247
Silva, Dom Pero da 324
Silva, Ricardo do Esprito Santo 72
Silva Meira, Domingos da 331
Silves 11, 17, 47, 3289
festivals 35
hotels 394
restaurants 413
Silves, Diogo de 52
Silvestri, Silvestro 248
Sines 318
Sintra 148, 1627
festivals 35, 36
hotels 388
map 61, 163
Palcio Nacional de Sintra
1645
Palcio de Pena 1667
restaurants 4023
Serra de Sintra tour 161
Sintra, Treaty of (1808) 57
Sisinando, Governor 210, 214
Stio 186
Sixtus II, Pope 330
Size chart 418
Skydiving 423, 425
Smoking, in restaurants 397
Soajo 276, 277
Soares da Silva, Andr
Cmara Municipal (Braga) 282
Nossa Senhora da Agonia
(Viana do Castelo) 281
GENERAL INDEX
T
Tagus, River 21, 22, 198
Belm (Lisbon) 103
birds of the Tagus and Sado
estuaries 175
Ponte 25 de Abril 116
Santarm 197
Vila Franca de Xira 198
Tmega, River 255, 261, 262,
287
Tangier 50
TAP Air Portugal 440, 441
Tascas (taverns) 396
Tavares (Lisbon restaurant) 92
Tavira 11, 17, 26, 336
hotels 394
restaurants 413
Tavira, Ilha de 336
beach 293
Tvora, River 220
Tvora family 113, 263
Taxation, Value Added Tax (VAT)
416
Taxis
in cities 449
for the disabled 433
travelling around the islands 447
Teatro see Theatres
Teixeira, Tristo Vaz 356
Telephone services 438
Television 25, 439
Telheiro 326
Temperatures 389
Templars see Knights Templar
The Temptations of St Antony
(Bosch) 98, 100
Tennis 424, 425
Tennyson, Alfred, Lord 377
Terceira 340, 364, 3701
hotels 395
restaurants 415
Terena 22, 306
473
474
GENERAL INDEX
Travel (cont.)
trams 448
Travellers cheques 436
Tree of Jesse (Oporto) 247
Triangular houses of Santana 357
Trinidade, Cervejaria (Lisbon) 93
Tristo, Nuno 326
Tria Golf 426, 427
Tria peninsula see Pennsula de
Tria
Tua 259
River 263
Turismo no Espao Rural 382
Turismo de Portugal 383
Turner, JMW 121
Turriano, Joo 211
Turtles 375
Two Bishop-Saints (Master of
Sardoal) 309, 310
U
Ucanha 257
UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Alcobaa 1845
Angra do Herosmo 370
Batalha 188
Coimbra University 21213
Elvas 3023
vora 308
Guimares 286
Madeiras laurel forest 347
Oporto 242
Picos vineyards 375
Sintra 162
Universities
Coimbra 15, 57, 149, 21213
vora 310
Urzelina 373
V
Vale de Lobo (golf course)
427
Vale da Pinta 427
Valeira dam 259
Valena do Minho 272
hotels 392
Valena do Minho (cont.)
restaurants 409
Valerian, Emperor 330
Valezim 224
Value Added Tax (VAT) 416
Vandals 45
Vanvitelli, Luigi 94
Vasco, Gro see Gro Vasco
Vasco da Gama Bridge (Lisbon)
116
Vasconcelos, Martim Mendes 352
GENERAL INDEX
W
Walking 423, 425
levadas 360
Rabaal Walks 361
travelling around the islands 447
Wamba, King 227
War of Independence (War of
Restoration) 545, 303
Estremoz 306
Moura 316
Praa dos Restauradores
(Lisbon) 84
War of the Two Brothers (1832)
58, 306, 329
Water
drinking 397
levadas of Madeira 360
Water (cont.)
thermal spas 215
Water sports 422, 423, 425
Waterfalls
Cascata da Ribeira Grande 377
Fisgas de Ermelo 261
Queda do Vigrio 329
Risco Waterfall 361
Watteau, Antoine 121
Wavrin, Jean de 51
Way of life 234
Weather 389, 430
Wellesley, Sir Arthur see
Wellington, Duke of
Wellington, Duke of
Abrantes 194
Almeida 221
Battle of Buaco 58, 217
Carrancas Palace (Oporto) 248
Elvas 303
Figueira da Foz 205
Lines of Torres Vedras 199
Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar
(Oporto) 252
Peninsular War 57, 58
portrait of 199
Weyden, Rogier van der 246
Bust of St Catherine(?) 118, 120
Whales
Canial 356
Museu do Scrimshaw (Horta) 376
In Pursuit of the Whale 3745
whale watching 3745, 376,
4245
whaling 374
Wheelchair access see Disabled
travellers
Wickerwork, Camacha 354
Wildlife
Berlenga Islands 180
Cabo de So Vicente 325
Marine Life in the Azores 375
Mrtola 319
Parque Natural do Alvo 240, 261
Parque Natural de Montesinho
266
Parque Natural da Ria Formosa
335
Parque Natural das Serras de
Aire e Candeeiros 186
In Pursuit of the Whale 3745
Reserva Natural das Dunas de
So Jacinto 207
Reserva Natural do Esturio do
Sado 1745
Reserva Natural do Esturio do
Tejo 169
475
Wildlife (cont.)
Reserva Natural do Sapal 337
Reserva Natural da Serra da
Malcata 226
Serra da Arrbida 173
Serra de Monchique 324
Serra de So Mamede 300
water birds of the Ria Formosa
335
whale watching 3745, 376, 424,
425
Windmills 27
Windsor, Treaty of (1386) 50
Windsurfing 422, 425
Wine
Adegas de So Francisco
(Funchal) 353
Casa de Mateus 10, 14, 2601
Central Portugal 153
Colares 159
Jose Maria de Fonseca (Vila
Nogueira de Azeito) 173
Madeira wine 355
Mateus ros 32, 260
Northern Portugal 237
in restaurants 397
shops 128, 129, 418, 419
Southern Portugal 295
Story of Port 235
Vinho verde 32, 33, 237, 254, 273
Wine Festival (Funchal) 36
wines of Portugal 323
see also Port
Winter in Portugal 37
Women travellers 432
World music 131
World War I 60
Memorial (Lisbon) 86
World War II 60
Y
Yacht Marina (Funchal) 350
Youth hostels 382
Z
Zacuto, Abraham 191
Zambujeira do Mar 319
Zamora, Treaty of (1143) 47
Zarco, Joo Gonalves
Funchal 352
Madeira 347, 356
monument to 350
Z Povinho (Pinheiro) 58
Zzere, River 194, 225
Zoos, Jardim Zoolgico (Lisbon)
126
Zurbarn, Francisco 196
476
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following
people whose contributions and assistance have made
the preparation of this book possible.
Additional Contributors
Dr Giray Ablay, Paul Bernhardt, Julie Dawn Fox, Mihaela
Rogalski, Gerry Stanbury, Paul Sterry, Paul Vernon.
Additional Illustrations
Consultant
Martin Symington was born and brought up in Portugal.
A freelance travel writer, he is the author of New Essential
Portugal (AA), and has contributed to Eyewitness Great
Britain and Eyewitness Seville and Andalusia. He writes
extensively on Portugal and is a regular contributor to
the Daily Telegraph, Sunday Telegraph and other British
national newspapers.
Contributors
Susie Boulton studied history of art at Cambridge. She is
a freelance travel writer and author of Eyewitness Venice and
the Veneto.
Christopher Catling is a freelance travel writer and author of
Madeira (AA) and Eyewitness Florence & Tuscany. He also
contributed to Eyewitness Italy and Eyewitness Great Britain.
Marion Kaplan has written for a wide range of magazines
and newspapers. She has lived in Portugal and wrote The
Portuguese (Viking/Penguin 1992). She also contributed to
the Berlitz Travellers Guide to Portugal.
Sarah Mcalister is a freelance editor and writer for Time
Out guides and has spent much time in Lisbon and the
surrounding area.
Alice Peebles is a freelance editor and writer and has worked
on several Eyewitness Travel Guides.
Revisions Team
Gillian Allan, Douglas Amrine, Emma Anacootee, Gillian
Andrews, Claire Baranowski, Paul Bernhardt, Uma Bhattacharya,
Tessa Bindloss, Julie Bond, Vivien Crump, Surya Deogan, Joy
FitzSimmons, Anna Freiberger, Camilla Gersh, Roger Green,
Swati Gupta, Mark Harding, Vinod Harish, Mohammad Hassan,
Paul Hines, Jasneet Kaur, Zafar ul Islam Khan, Priya Kukadia,
Vincent Kurien, Esther Labi, Kathryn Lane, Michelle de Larrabeiti,
Felicity Laughton, Jason Little, Carly Madden, Hayley Maher,
Nicola Malone, Helen Markham, Caroline Mead, Rebecca Mills,
Robert Mitchell, Adam Moore, Helena Nogueira, David Noonan,
Rakesh Kumar Pal, Susie Peachey, Alice Peebles, Helen Peters,
Marianne Petrou, Andrea Powell, Tom Prentice, Rada Radojicic,
Mani Ramaswamy, Andrew Ribeiro-Hargreave, Ellen Root,
Azeem Siddiqui, Sands Publishing Solutions, Sadie Smith, Alison
Stace, Roseen Teare, Amanda Tomeh, Helen Townsend, Tomas
Tranaeus, Fiona Wild.
Index
Hilary Bird, Helen Peters.
Additional Photography
Paul Bernhardt, Steve Gorton/DK Studio, John Heseltine, Dave
King, Martin Norris, Ian O Leary, Jorge Morgado, Roger Phillips,
Rough Guides/Eddie Gerald, Rough Guide/ Natascha Sturny ,
Clive Streeter, Matthew Ward.
Special Assistance
Emlia Tavares, Arquivo Nacional de Fotografia, Lisboa; Lusa
Cardia, Biblioteca Nacional e do Livro, Lisboa; Marina
Gonalves and Aida Pereira, Cmara Municipal de Lisboa;
Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses; Carris, Lisboa; Enatur, Lisboa;
Karen Ollier-Spry, John E. Fells and Sons Ltd; Maria Ftima
Moreira, Fundao Bissaya-Barreto, Coimbra; Maria Helena
Soares da Costa, Fundao Calouste Gulbenkian, Lisboa; Joo
Campilho, Fundao da Casa de Bragana, Lisboa; Pilar Serras
and Jos Arago, ICEP, London; Instituto do Vinho de Porto,
Porto; Simoneta Afonso, IPM, Lisboa; Mrio Abreu, Dulce
Ferraz, IPPAR, Lisboa; Pedro Moura Bessa and Eduardo CorteReal, Livraria Civilizao Editora, Porto; Metropolitano de
Lisboa; Raquel Florentino and Cristina Leite, Museu da Cidade,
Lisboa; Joo Castel Branco G. Pereira, Museu Nacional do
Azulejo, Lisboa; Turihab, Ponte de Lima; Ildio Barbosa,
Universidade de Coimbra, Coimbra; Teresa Chicau at the
tourist office in vora, Conceio Estudante at the tourist
office in Funchal and the staff at all the other tourist offices
and town halls in Portugal
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Photography Permissions
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following for their
assistance and kind permission to photograph at their
establishments: Instituto Portugus do Patrimnio
Arquitectnico e Arqueolgico (IPPAR), Lisboa; Fundao da
Casa de Alorna, Lisboa; Instituto Portugus dos Museus (IPM),
Lisboa; Museu da Marinha, Lisboa; Museu do Mar, Cascais;
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Olivais, Tomar and all the other
churches, museums, hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries and
sights too numerous to thank individually.
Picture Credits
a = above; b = below/bottom; c = centre; f = far; l = left;
r = right; t = top.
The work illustrated on page 119b, Terreiro do Pao by Dirk
Stoop, is reproduced by kind permission of the Museu da
Cidade, Lisboa.
The publisher would like to thank the following individuals,
companies and picture libraries for permission to reproduce
their photographs:
123RF.com: Juliane Jacobs 102.
Maurcio Abreu: 37t, 151tr, 344bc/br, 367cla, 370cr/bl, 371br,
372ca, 373c, 374tr/ca/cb, 376t, 377tr, 399b; AISA: 42tr, 43tc, 43br,
60br, 108br; Alamy Images: Jose Atunes 421cr; Buzz Pictures
422cra; Cephas Picture Library/Peter Stowell 418tl; Cro Magnon
200, 294cla; Jean Dominique Dallet 419cla; Goncalo Diniz 128br;
Michele Falzone 193tl; John Ferro Sims 1, 417c; Peter Forsberg
152cla; Michael Howard 422bl; Iain Davidson Photographic
295tl; Imagebroker/Gnter Lenz 424tl, Imagebroker/Martin
Moxter 441bl; Marion Kaplan 417br; Hideo Kurihara 268; Yahdid
Levy 153c, 423tl; Mediacolors 295cb; John Norman 428-9;
Photobliss 129tl; 237tl; Alex Ramsay 114; H. Souto 417tl;
Stockfolio/Gaboria 418crb; Travel Pictures 37cr; Travelshots.com
153tl; Damien Tully 237cb; Mikael Utterstrom 424br; Ken Walsh
109tl;John Warburton-Lee Photography/Ian Aitken 236cla;
Wilmar Photography 154; Aldeia da Fonte Hotel: 415bl; Algarve
Tourist Office: 292tr; Allsport: Mike Powell 61crb; Andor Violeta:
407tr; Arquivo Nacional De Fotografia-Instituto Portugus De
Museus, Lisboa: Museu Nacional De Arte Antiga/Pedro Ferreira
100tr, 101t (all); Francisco Matias 53tl; Carlos Monteiro 50cla; Lus
Pavo 43tl, 56clb, 57ca, 64tr, 98bl/br, 99bc, 101c; Jos Pessoa
28bl, 29tr, 49ca, 53cra, 54tr, 55tc/clb, 98tr, 99ca/cr, 100bl, 101br;
Museu Nacional Do Azulejo Painel De Azulejos Composio
Geomtrica, 1970, Raul Lino-Fbrica Cermica Constncia 31tr;
Francisco Matias 30b; Jos Pessoa 30cra/31cb/bl; Coleces
Arquivo Nacional De Fotografia/San Payo 43tr; Igreja De So
Vicente De Fora/Carlos Monteiro 43bl; Museu Nacional Dos
Coches/Jos Pessoa 43bc, 103bl, 105bl, 150br, 151b(all);
Henrique Ruas 106bl; Museu Nacional De Arqueologia/Jos
Pessoa 45ca/cb, 107c; Museu Monogrfico De Conimbriga 45tl;
Museu De Mrtola/Paulo Cintra 46cl; Igreja Matriz Santiago Do
Cacm/Jos Rubio 47tl; Jos Pessoa 49tl; Biblioteca Da Ajuda/
Jos Pessoa 48cla; Museu De So Roque/Abreu Nunes 51tl;
Museu Gro Vasco/Jos Pessoa 52bl; Universidade De Coimbra,
Gabinete De Fsica/Jos Pessoa 56tr; Museu De Cermica Das
Caldas Da Rainha/Jos Pessoa 58cla; Museu Do Chiado 59tl; Col.
477
478
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PHRASE BOOK
479
Phrase Book
In an Emergency
Help!
Stop!
Call a doctor!
Call an ambulance
Call the police
Call the fire brigade
Where is the nearest
telephone?
Where is the nearest
hospital?
Socorro!
Pre!
Chame um
mdico!
Chame uma
ambulncia!
Chame a
polcia!
Chame os
bombeiros!
H um telefone
aqui perto?
Onde o
hospital mais
prximo?
Communication Essentials
Yes
No
Please
Thank you
Excuse me
Hello
Goodbye
Good morning
Good afternoon
Good night
Yesterday
Today
Tomorrow
Here
There
What?
Which
When?
Why?
Where?
Sim
No
Por favor/
Faz favor
Obrigado/da
Desculpe
Ol
Adeus
Bom-dia
Boa-tarde
Boa-noite
Ontem
Hoje
Amanh
Aqui
Ali
O qu?
Qual?
Quando?
Porqu?
Onde?
see
now
poor fuh-vor
fash fuh-vor
o-bree-gah-doo/duh
dish-koolp
oh-lah
a-deh-oosh
bo dee-uh
boh-uh tard
boh-uh noyt
o-tay
ohj
ah-ma-ya
uh-kee
uh-lee
oo keh
kwahl
kwa-doo
poor-keh
od
Useful Phrases
How are you?
Very well,
thank you.
Pleased to
meet you.
See you soon.
Thats fine.
Where is/are?
Como est?
Bem,
obrigado/da.
Encantado/a.
At logo.
Est bem.
Onde
est/esto?
How far is it to? A que distncia
fica?
Como se vai
Which
way to?
para?
Fala ingls?
Do you speak
English?
I dont understand. No compreendo.
Could you speak Pode falar
more slowly
mais devagar
please?
por favor?
Im sorry.
Desculpe.
koh-moo shtah
bay o-bree-gahdoo/duh
e-ka-tah-doo/
duh
uh-teh loh-goo
shtah bay
ond shtah/
shtow
uh kee dish-tasee-uh fee-kuh
koh-moo seh vy
puh-ruh
fah-luh eeglehsh
now kom-pree-e-doo
pohd fuh-lar
mysh d-va-gar
poor fuh-vor
dish-koolp
Useful Words
big
small
hot
cold
good
bad
quite a lot/enough
well
open
closed
left
right
straight on
near
far
up
down
early
late
entrance
exit
toilets
more
less
grande
pequeno
quente
frio
bom
mau
bastante
bem
aberto
fechado
esquerda
direita
em frente
perto
longe
para cima
para baixa
cedo
tarde
entrada
sada
casa de banho
mais
menos
grad
pe-keh-noo
ket
free-oo
bo
mah-oo
bash-tat
bay
a-behr-too
fe-shah-doo
shkehr-duh
dee-ray-tuh
ay fret
pehr-too
loj
pur-ruh see-muh
pur-ruh buy-shoo
seh-doo
tard
e-trah-duh
sa-ee-duh
kah-zuh d ba-yoo
mysh
meh-noosh
uma chamada
local.
Posso deixar uma
mensagem?
kree-uh fuh-zehr
oo-muh shamah-duh in-terna-see-oo-nahl
oo-muh sha-mahduh loo-kahl
poh-soo dayshar oo-muh
me-sah--jay
Shopping
How much
Quanto
does this cost?
custa isto?
I would like
Queria
Im just
Estou s a ver
looking.
obrigado/a.
Do you take
credit cards?
Aceita cartes
de crdito?
What time
do you open?
What time
do you close?
This one
That one
expensive
cheap
size (clothes/shoes)
white
black
red
yellow
green
blue
A que horas
abre?
A que horas
fecha?
Este
Esse
caro
barato
tamanho
branco
preto
vermelho
amarelo
verde
azul
Types of Shop
antique shop
bakery
bank
bookshop
butcher
cake shop
chemist
fishmonger
hairdresser
market
newsagent
post office
shoe shop
supermarket
tobacconist
travel agency
loja de
antiguidades
padaria
banco
livraria
talho
pastelaria
farmcia
peixaria
cabeleireiro
mercado
quiosque
correios
sapataria
supermercado
tabacaria
agncia de
viagens
loh-juh de a-teegwee-dahdsh
pah-duh-ree-uh
ba-koo
lee-vruh-ree-uh
tah-lyoo
pash-te-luh-ree-uh
far-mah-see-uh
pay-shuh-ree-uh
kab-lay-ray-roo
mehr-kah-doo
kee-yohsk
koo-ray-oosh
suh-puh-tuh-ree-uh
soo-pehr-merkah-doo
tuh-buh-kuh-ree-uh
uh-jen-see-uh de
vee-ah-jaysh
s seh
igreja
jardim
biblioteca
museu
posto de
turismo
fechado para
frias
estao de
autocarros
estao de
comboios
ee-gray-juh
jar-dee
bee-blee-oo-teh-kuh
moo-zeh-oo
posh-too d
too-reesh-moo
fe-sha-doo puh-ruh
feh-ree-ash
shta-sow d ohtoo-kah-roosh
shta-sow d
ko-boy-oosh
Sightseeing
cathedral
church
garden
library
museum
tourist information office
closed for
holidays
bus station
railway station
Staying in a Hotel
Do you have a
vacant room?
room with
a bath
Tem um
quarto livre?
um quarto com
casa de banho
shower
single room
duche
quarto
individual
quarto de casal
double room
twin room
porter
key
I have a
reservation.
480
PHRASE BOOK
Eating Out
Have you got a
table for?
I want to
reserve a table.
The bill
please.
glass
bottle
half bottle
knife
fork
spoon
plate
napkin
breakfast
pequeno-almoo
lunch
dinner
cover
starter
main course
dish of the day
almoo
jantar
couvert
entrada
prato
principal
prato do dia
set dish
half portion
dessert
rare
medium
well done
combinado
meia-dose
sobremesa
mal passado
mdio
bem passado
I am a
vegetarian.
Waiter
the menu
fixed-price
menu
wine list
Menu Decoder
abacate
aorda
uh-buh-kaht
uh-sor-duh
acar
gua mineral
batido
bica
bife
bolacha
bolo
borrego
caa
caf
camares
caracis
caranguejo
carne
cataplana
uh-soo-kar
ah-gwuh
mee-ne-rahl
ko gas
say gas
al-yoo
ahl-pehrce
uh-may-joo-ash
uh-nuh-nahsh
uh-rohsh
uh-sah-doo
uh-too
ah-vesh
uh-zayt
uh-zay-toh-nash
buh-kuh-lyow
buh-nah-nuh
buh-tah-tash
buh-tah-tash
free-tash
buh-tee-doo
bee-kuh
beef
boo-lah-shuh
boh-loo
boo-reh-goo
kah-ssuh
kuh-feh
kuh-muh-roysh
kuh-ruh-koysh
kuh-ra-gay-joo
karn
kuh-tuh-plah-nuh
cebola
cerveja
ch
cherne
chocolate
chocos
chourio
churrasco
cogumelos
cozido
enguias
fiambre
figado
frango
frito
fruta
gambas
gelado
gelo
se-boh-luh
sehr-vay-juh
shah
shern
shoh-koh-laht
shoh-koosh
shoh-ree-soo
shoo-rash-coo
koo-goo-meh-loosh
koo-zee-doo
e-gee-ash
fee-abr
fee-guh-doo
fra-goo
free-too
froo-tuh
gam-bash
je-lah-doo
jeh-loo
(com gs)
(sem gs)
alho
alperce
amijoas
anans
arroz
assado
atum
aves
azeite
azeitonas
bacalhau
banana
batatas
batatas fritas
avocado
bread-based stew
(often seafood)
sugar
mineral water
sparkling
still
garlic
apricot
clams
pineapple
rice
baked
tuna
poultry
olive oil
olives
dried, salted cod
banana
potatoes
french fries
milk-shake
espresso
steak
biscuit
cake
lamb
game
coffee
large prawns
snails
crab
meat
sealed wok used
to steam dishes
onion
beer
tea
stone bass
chocolate
cuttlefish
red, spicy sausage
on the spit
mushrooms
boiled
eels
ham
liver
chicken
fried
fruit
prawns
ice cream
ice
goraz
grelhado
iscas
lagosta
laranja
leite
limo
limonada
linguado
lulas
ma
manteiga
mariscos
meia-de-leite
ostras
ovos
po
pastel
pato
peixe
peixe-espada
pimenta
polvo
porco
queijo
sal
salada
salsichas
sandes
santola
sopa
sumo
tamboril
tarte
tomate
torrada
tosta
vinagre
vinho branco
vinho tinto
vitela
goo-rash
grel-yah-doo
eesh-kash
luh-gohsh-tuh
luh-ra-juh
layt
lee-mow
lee-moo-nah-duh
lee-gwah-doo
loo-lash
muh-sa
ma-tay-guh
muh-reesh-koosh
may-uh-d layt
osh-trash
oh-voosh
pow
pash-tehl
pah-too
paysh
paysh-shpah-duh
pee-me-tuh
pohl-voo
por-coo
kay-joo
sahl
suh-lah-duh
sahl-see-shash
sa-desh
sa-toh-luh
soh-puh
soo-moo
ta-boo-ril
tart
too-maht
too-rah-duh
tohsh-tuh
vee-nah-gre
vee-yoo bra-koo
vee-yoo tee-too
vee-teh-luh
bream
grilled
marinated liver
lobster
orange
milk
lemon
lemonade
sole
squid
apple
butter
seafood
white coffee
oysters
eggs
bread
cake
duck
fish
scabbard fish
pepper
octopus
pork
cheese
salt
salad
sausages
sandwich
spider crab
soup
juice
monkfish
pie/cake
tomato
toast
toasted sandwich
vinegar
white wine
red wine
veal
zero
um oo
dois
trs
quatro
cinco
seis
sete
oito
nove
dez
onze
doze
treze
catorze
quinze
dezasseis
dezassete
dezoito
dezanove
vinte
vinte e um
trinta
quarenta
cinquenta
sessenta
setenta
oitenta
noventa
cem
cento e um
cento e dois
duzentos
trezentos
quatrocentos
quinhentos
setecentos
novecentos
mil
doysh
tresh
kwa-troo
see-koo
saysh
set
oy-too
nov
desh
oz
doz
trez
ka-torz
keez
de-zuh-saysh
de-zuh-set
de-zoy-too
de-zuh-nov
veent
veen-tee-oo
tree-tuh
kwa-re-tuh
seen-kwe-tuh
se-se-tuh
se-te-tuh
oy-te-tuh
noo-ve-tuh
say
se-too-ee-oo
se-too ee doysh
doo-ze-toosh
tre-ze-toosh
kwa-troo-se-toosh
kee-nye-toosh
set-se-toosh
nov-se-toosh
meel
um minuto
uma hora
meia-hora
segunda-feira
tera-feira
quarta-feira
quinta-feira
sexta-feira
sbado
domingo
oo mee-noo-too
oo-muh oh-ruh
may-uh-oh-ruh
se-goon-duh-fay-ruh
ter-sa-fay-ruh
kwar-ta-fay-ruh
keen-ta-fay-ruh
say-shta-fay-ruh
sah-ba-doo
doo-meen-goo
Numbers
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
101
102
200
300
400
500
700
900
1,000
zeh-roo
Time
one minute
one hour
half an hour
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday