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Bake From Scratch - Spring 2016
Bake From Scratch - Spring 2016
FROM SCRATCH
61
French Recipes
You Can Make
at Home
The Essential
Brioche
(including this
chocolate loaf)
SPRING 2016
$12.99 US
FEATURING
Easy Gteaux
French Cookies & Macarons
DISPLAY UNTIL MAY 30, 2016
The Quest for the Perfect Croissant
FROM SCRATCH
table of contents
79 FRENCH CONNECTION
Visit these bakeries bringing the best French flavors
107 Origin of a Classic: Tarte Tatin
The Loire Valleys legendary upside-down apple tart
to American soil was originally created by accident
^
85 PATISSERIE AT HOME
You dont have to be a pastry chef to make these five
111 Spotlight On... Battle of the Bakers
Three bakers travel to France to compete as Team
timeless treats USA in the World Bakery Cup
spring 2016 4
#thebakefeed
TAG YOUR BAKINg ADVENTURES on instagram FROM SCRATCH
Bake from Scratch is published by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive,
Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. 1-888-411-8995. The cover and contents of Bake from
Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without
@ sawdust_and_lemons @ constellationinspiration prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. 2016 Hoffman Media, LLC.
Printed in the USA.
Follow us for
daily baking
inspiration.
@thebakefeed
@thebakefeed
Photo by
Deborah Whitlaw LLewellyn
contributors
FROM SCRATCH
team
Julia Bainbridge Anne E. McBride
Julia Bainbridge is a food writer who has worked Anne E. McBride regularly writes on topics Deanna Gardner
at Yahoo!, Bon Apptit, and Cond Nast Traveler. related to professional and experimental Deanna Gardner is Group Creative Director
Since then, her work has been published in cooking, including contributions to The Oxford at Hoffman Media in Birmingham, Alabama,
Organic Life, Saveur, and Afar, to name a few, Companion to Sugar and Sweets. She is the co-author where her award-winning talent as a
and she hopes she can add a few more to of three books with famed pastry chef Franois graphic designer is put to good use in the
that list soon. Julia has a lot of feelings, one of Payard, including Payard Cookies (featured in pages of Bake from Scratch. Deanna feeds her
them being loneliness, so she hosts a podcast this issue, page 12), and of Les Petits Sweets (out creative cravings through her work with
called The Lonely Hour, in which she interviews September 2016) with Kathryn Gordon. She is graphics, textiles, and paper. She has a
guests about solitude and aloneness. Its not a finishing a Ph.D. in food studies at New York love for all things vintage and swoons over
bummer, though, she promises. University, where she also teaches. Find her anything kitsch.
online at annemcbride.net.
Very First French Pastry Bite: A rock hard Dream Carb Day in France: A morning
pain au chocolat from a Maryland grocery Very First French Pastry Bite: I ate French filled with croissants and espresso followed
store, which set the bar very low. Oh, how my and Swiss pastries long before I was old enough by a stroll down the Champs-lyses
world has opened up since then. to remember them, but an early memory that and a visit to Ladure for my must-have
sticks is mille feuille. My grandmother loved pistachio macarons. My first trip to France
Favorite French Apritif: Pastis, taken in
thosesimple ones, with a pastry cream or is scheduled for this summer when I fully
thimble-sized sips.
whipped cream and strawberryso we often intend to turn this dream into reality.
Photo by Linda Pugliese
had them around.
Favorite French Apritif:
Favorite French Apritif: Macvin, a fortified Champagne, sil vous plat.
wine from the Jura.
Clotilde Dusoulier
Clotilde Dusoulier is the 30-something
Parisienne behind the popular French food Mary-Claire Britton
blog Chocolate & Zucchini (chocolateandzucchini Kat Kinsman Mary-Claire Britton is a classically trained
.com), in which she gets her readers excited Kat Kinsman, an enthusiastic and voracious chef, food stylist, and writer. She earned
about daily cooking and shares insider tips eater, is editor-at-large at Tasting Table and her stripes working the line in restaurants
on the Paris food scene. She is also the author author of the upcoming Hi, Anxiety. Previously up and down the East coast before she
of several books, including The French Market she oversaw CNNs Eatocracy where her work landed in publishing with Hoffman
Cookbook, a book of French vegetarian recipes. won an EPPY Award for best food website and Media. When shes not in the kitchen, she
was a finalist for the James Beard Foundation can be found clowning around town with
Very First French Pastry Bite: My grand-
Broadcast Award. She spies the Mayor of New her husband (also an acclaimed chef) and
mother came to lunch on Sundays, and every
York at her corner bakery most weekdays. their two amazing little boys.
week she brought a spectacular French classic
that she got from her neighborhood ptisserie. Dream Carb Day in France: Id be content Very First French Pastry Bite: The first
I have the most vivid recollection of the Saint- stapling myself to David Lebovitzs pant leg truly French pastry I remember eating was
Honor with the splendid caramelized cream and eating whatever crumbs he dropped as he a croissant, just out of the oven at an inn
puffs and waves of whipped cream on top. made his way around Paris, but I dont know about 25 miles north of Avignon, Provence.
how happy hed be about that. I was 11 years old, and it was life changing.
Favorite French Apritif: I like Lillet, an old-
fashioned aperitif wine with citrus accents. Favorite French Apritif: Lillet aaaaaallllll Favorite French Apritif: Im a total
day. Either color. sucker for Lillet Blanc.
on the cover
FROM SCRATCH
Brioche au
An easy reference guide for French terms
commonly used throughout this issue of
Bake From Scratch.
recipe index Chocolat Loaf
page 44
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
JIM BATHIE
61
French Recipes
You Can Make
at Home
The Essential
BREAD RECIPE DEVELOPMENT Brioche
BOULANGERIE (boo-LAN-zhree) A bakery that Basic Brioche Dough 37 AND FOOD STYLING BY
(including this
chocolate loaf)
MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
specializes in the art of making bread Brioche Tte 44 FEATURING
Easy Gteaux
STYLING BY French Cookies & Macarons
BY MARY-KATE SHERER
Ea
1. Mauviel Mpassion Copper Beating Bowl
This bowl is more than just a vessel for ingredients. Chefs
love its unlined copper interior, which stabilizes egg whites
while beating, allowing them to almost triple in volume. Try it
with our delicate Macarons recipe (page 47).
$105-$190; mauvielusa.com
4. Coppermill Kitchen
Whether you prefer true heirlooms, refurbished antiques,
or vintage-inspired pieces, Coppermill Kitchen has one-of-a-kind
tools for any baker. Their collection is filled with pieces such as these
Coppermill Kitchen Tartlet Moulds (4a). We instantly fell in love with
the mid-19th century round gratin pie pan (4b), handy for baking a
Tarte Tatin (page 110), and mid-19th century trottier bundt mould
(4c), perfect for baking up miniature versions of beloved confections.
Prices vary; coppermillkitchen.com
spring 2016 10
on the shelf
the
FRENCH
BAKERY
at home
Say bonjour to French baking with
these new releases, and explore
the true essence of la boulangerie
and pAtisserie without ever
leaving your kitchen
The French Baker Payard Cookies
By Jean Michel Raynaud By Franois Payard with Anne E. McBride
French-born master ptissier Jean Michel Raynaud believes that For award-winning fourth-generation French pastry chef Franois Payard,
creativity and science are of equal importance in baking. In his debut baking is more than a profession, it is a tradition. In Payard Cookies (Houghton
book, The French Baker (Murdoch Books), Raynauds goal is to give Mifflin Harcourt), Payard takes an introspective look at one of the most
home bakers the fundamentals needed to make delicious goods timeless desserts with 100 accessible recipes.
from their own kitchens. His strength lies in keeping it simple, and
Raynaud provides concise explanations of basic baking ingredients Cant Wait To Make: Rosaces au Chocolat, chocolate dough
and tools throughout the book. piped into an exquisite rosette shape
French Apritif
THE
Pairing #1
MUSHROOM TART
& FRENCH ROYALE
FRENCH ROYALE
Makes 1 serving
1 ounce Byrrh
ounce Gifard Vanille de
Madagascar
Bugey Cerdon (or another sparkling
ros), to ll
Garnish: lemon zest
spring 2016 14
Pairing #2
FLAMMEKECHE & ALSATIAN
BLANC DE BLANCS CREMANT
FLAMMEKECHE 1. Let pizza dough come to room temperature 6. Slide two pieces of dough onto pizza stone,
Makes 4 servings before baking, about 1 hour. and bake for 3 minutes. Repeat with remaining
2. Fill a medium saucepan halfway with water. dough.
Recipe adapted from Le Diplomate, Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Add 7. Immediately layer cheese mixture to -inch
Washington, DC sliced bacon, and cook for 2 minutes. Strain thickness over each piece of partially baked
water, and place bacon on a plate lined with dough. (Any remaining cheese mixture may
This bacon-topped flammekeche is baked on a paper towels to let drain. (Bacon can also be be covered and refrigerated for up to 3 days.)
pizza stone in the oven. sauted for 1 to 2 minutes, or until crispy.) Sprinkle yellow onion and bacon over each.
3. In a medium bowl, combine fromage blanc, 8. Bake, two at a time, until cheese mixture
1 (16-ounce) ball deli pizza dough crme frache, egg yolk, nutmeg, salt, and starts to bubble and bacon and onion get more
1 cup uncooked bacon, sliced into lardons pepper, stirring until mixture is smooth. Set color, 2 to 3 minutes more.
(-inch pieces) aside. 9. Garnish with spring onions, sea salt, and
1 cup fromage blanc 4. Place pizza stone in center of oven, and finishing oil. Serve with wine pairing.
1 cup crme frache preheat oven to 450. Allow 30 minutes for
1 large egg yolk pizza stone to heat before baking. Suggested Pairing: Domaine Pfister, Cremant
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 5. On a lightly floured surface, cut pizza dough DAlsace Blanc de Blancs b
teaspoon salt into quarters, and roll each into a 7x5-inch
teaspoon ground black pepper rectangle about inch thick.
8 teaspoons olive oil, divided (if grilling)
2 cups thinly sliced yellow onion
Garnish: spring onions, sea salt, finishing oil
spring 2016 16
from the pantry
For that extra flourish, nothing ups your baking game like
a delicate sprinkling of this prized sea salt
BY JULIA BAINBRIDGE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES
Salt was one of the first things traded by mankind. Towns have been built on it. Wars have been waged over
it. As anthropologist Margaret Visser pointed out in her 1986 book Much Depends on Dinner, The word salary
dates from the Roman distribution of salt as a part of their soldiers pay; an inadequate person, we still say,
is not worth their salt. Thats how fundamental this crystalline mineral is to our very beingand to our
pleasure. (And what is being without pleasure?)
At the top of the salt ladder comes fleur de sel, which literally translates as flower of salt. It is a hand-
harvested, refined sea salt prized for its textural and mineral complexity. The well-known French Maldon
is closecrunchy, salty without being bitterbut no cigar. Flake salt is low in moisture compared to fleur
de sel, meaning the formers flavor dissolves quickly on the tongue. Another step down the ladder comes
unrefined, gray sea salt, which has not been washed of the clay or other sediments that the ocean carries
with it. Theres coarse kosher salt, which most people like to use when cooking for its
large crystals, which are easier for fingers to pick up and scatter evenly. Its also never
iodized, keeping it free of the harsh flavor that some claim they can taste in iodized
salts. And, finally, theres dense, granulated table salt,
the majority of which has been treated with
additives to prevent the crystals from
sticking to one another. But fleur de
sel should really be called la reine
de sel, or the queen of salt, as
nothing else comes close.
Fleur de sel is tended to like any crop. The most classic versions are produced along the saltier Atlantic
coast of west-central France, in regions such as Gurande, Camargue, and le de R, by channeling water
from the sea through winding waterways and into shallow marshes, where it sits in the sun, evaporating,
until crystals form along each pools surface. If the air is too moist, then those crystals will not form. If its
too hot, then the water will evaporate quickly, and the paludiersyes, those who harvest this specific sea
salt have their own professional denominationwill have quick work cut out for them. Rain is also a real
setback. In other words, a good fleur de sel harvest depends as much on the vagaries of the season as do
fields of spring lettuces. Traditionally, only women were paludiers: The careful raking of salt crust without
disturbing it significantly could only be entrusted to the fairer sex. While men also harvest in France today,
as Mark Bitterman wrote in his book Salted, many modern-day paludiers [acknowledge] that women can be
faster and more precise than men in the harvest of fleur de sel. All of it must be done during a four-month
window of time between June and September, when the weather is warm and the seas are tame.
The final product is too expensive to be used as much else than a finishing salt. Even in tiny pinches, its a
real game changer sprinkled on top of pasta, salad, a simple steak, or even a plain slice of bread with butter.
Bakers and candy makers love the savory crunch it brings to caramels, peanut brittle, and chocolate chip
cookies. Try it on a scoop of dark chocolate ice cream or atop a rich slice of pie.
Some will argue that only the French stuff is real fleur de sel, given the countrys traditions and standards
of production. The label fleur de sel, though, is really meant to tell the buyer how the salt was made, and
the simplest way to describe that is as follows: Fleurs de sel are the salt crystals raked from the surface of a
shallow collection of solar-evaporated sea water. Given that description, there are plenty of great varieties
to be found around the world, from Guatemala to the Philippines, produced in outdoor marsh ponds and
indoor tubs. Ben Jacobsen of Portland, Oregons Jacobsen Salt Company hopes to put North Americas first
fleur de sel on the market in the next two years.
But no matter where its made, if it carries the label fleur de sel, its definitely worth its salt.
b
your buye r s g u i d e f o r
FLEUR DE SEL
The good thing about eur de sel? If those three words are on the label, then its been made the way it should
be. In other words, the snowake-like crystals have been gently raked from the tops of solar-evaporated
seawater ponds. Fleur de sel is expensive. But remember, this is a nishing saltits not meant to be layered
on throughout the cooking processand a little goes a long way.
Le Saunier de Camargue Fleur Hand-harvested sea salt from El Salvador Fleur de Sel
de Sel de Camargue le de R El Salvador
Camargue, France le de R, France The mouthfeel of this eur de sel
The Camargue is western Europes Fleur de sel has been gathered on is, says its carrier, reminiscent of
largest river delta, making its this island of of Frances Atlantic the mangrove swamps near where
marshy land ripe for salt harvesting. coast since the seventh century. it is harvested.
saltworks.us williams-sonoma.com themeadow.com
$12.95 for 4.4 ounces $14.95 for 8.8 ounces $13 for 6.4 ounces
Bali Reef Fleur de Sel Sea Salt Mark Bitterman Fleur de Sel Millnaire Fleur de Sel de
Bali, Indonesia Guatemala Gurande
This eur de sel is drier than most, Salt expert Mark Bitterman Gurande, France
but its crystals are slightly larger, produces this eur de sel in salt Gurande is Paris-based baker
providing a hefty crunch. pans that supplied the Mayan David Lebovitzs favorite eur de
themeadow.com Empire at the height of its power. sel-producing region.
$6 for 1.5 ounces surlatable.com worldmarket.com
$14 for 7.6 ounces $6.99 for 4.4 ounces b
spring 2016 20
bakery prole
BUILT
Long before its trademark almond green and gold family that launched it into a global brand. In 1862,
colors began to grace the chicest streets from Tokyo Louis Ernest Ladure opened a small bakery on rue
to Florence, Ladure was a site of pilgrimage for Royale in Paris, near the Champs-Elyses and Tuileries
gourmands visiting Paris. Few presents promise to Gardens on the Right Bank. After a fire destroyed the
please food-loving friends more than one of its ornate original bakery in 1871, he expanded it into a pastry
brocade-like pastel boxes brought back across the shop decorated by acclaimed French lithographer Jules
Atlantic filled with delicate macarons. Chret, widely known for his posters featuring
v
vibrant figuresoften free-spirited women
Arguably the worlds most famous pastryy at their center and dynamic hand lettering.
house, Ladure is a family business several L
Louis daughter-in-law devised the tea salon
times over, from its eponymous founder concept that further transformed Ladure
to the creator of its signature treat to the at the turn of the twentieth century.
23 bake from scratch
Ladure embodies the art de vivre, and is more than just
a restaurant or a macaron boutique, explains Elisabeth
Holder Raberin, co-president of Ladure US and sister of
Ladure chairman, David Holder. Our first tea salon was
the first one in Paris and was the place where well-heeled
ladies could meet in public with friends and lovers alike.
During that time, proper ladies could not be seen [in cafs].
Ladure was an establishment that broke that barrier.
People came to be discreet yet social, but came back
because the pastries were irresistible.
spring 2016 24
laduree 1871
After a fire destroys the small bakery, Ladure is rebuilt
timeline into a pastry shop decorated by famed painter and poster
artist Jules Cheret.
1862 1930s
Louis Ernest Ladure opens
a bakery, Ladure, at 16, rue Pierre Desfontaines, second cousin of Louis, sandwichees a
Royale in Paris. ganache filling in between two macarons and creates what has
become the maisons most recognizable sweet.
1980s
American journalists,
such as Mimi Sheraton,
1900s start praising macarons
Jeanne Souchard, who married Louis as the perfect sweet
Ernests son, comes up with the idea of Parisian nosh.
combining two Parisian staples, the pastry
shop and the caf, turning Ladure into one
of the first Parisian tea salons.
The Holder family opened its first bakery in 1889. Today, the Holder Group
helms multiple bread and pastry businesses, including the multinational
bakery giant Paul. It has expanded Ladures brand into several sectors, from
Ladure Beaut and its collections for home, bath, and body to Les Marquis
de Ladure, which focuses exclusively on chocolate productschocolate
macarons, breads and pastries made with chocolate doughs and filled with
chocolate, the richest of hot chocolates, and of course bars and bonbons.
Ladure has nearly 100 locations worldwide, in cities like Geneva, Dubai,
Tokyo, Sao Paulo, Istanbul, and London. Washington, DC, and Los Angeles
will soon join New York and Miami in the US.
A visit to the original rue Royale location or one of its City of Light sisters
remains a must-do on many a food tourists itinerary, howeveras it
should. Towers of macarons beckon from the window; once inside, it
becomes impossible to choose between religieuses, mille feuilles, babas au
rhum, or the many pastries based on saucer-sized macarons. Sipping on a
cup of fragrant tea and gently pressing a fork into the softness of an clair,
its easy to believe that not a century has passed. b
1993
The Holder Group,
helmed by Francis 2005
and David Holder, The first international Ladure
purchases Ladure. opens in London, leading the way
for more than 100 locations around
the world, from Tokyo and Dubai to
Casablanca and Sao Paulo.
spring 2016 26
the ART
of t h e
CRUMB
Elegant, class ic, a
these Frenc
nd sublime
h
wi ll t r a n s f o r m y cooki es
our
afternoon snack
break
spring 2016 30
Petit Beurre with Strawberry Buttercream
PETIT BEURRE
Makes about 36 cookies or 18 sandwich cookies
* We used the
Petit Beurre Set by
Mason Cash & Co.,
masoncash.co.uk
PALMIERS WITH VANILLA BEAN, 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, CHOCOLATE-ORANGE SABLS
PECAN, AND CARDAMOM combine pecans, sugar, salt, cardamom, and Makes about 72
Makes about 36 vanilla bean seeds. Process until mixture is
uniformly incorporated and is the texture of Bursting with complexity and avor, these sabls
Palmiers might just be the perfect cookie: fine sand. are easier to put together than you might think.
crisp, buttery layers of puf pastry encased 2. Pour about half of sugar mixture onto
in caramelized sugar. Its hard to improve on work surface. Place puf pastry on top, and Orange Dough:
something so classically perfect, but we think our sprinkle with additional sugar mixture. Begin cup (169 grams) unsalted butter, softened
version with cardamom, pecans, and vanilla bean rolling pastry, working quickly, incorporating 1 orange, zested
comes pretty close. more sugar (as you would when ouring your 1 cup (114 grams) confectioners sugar
board while rolling piecrust or cookies). Roll 1 large egg
cup pecan halves up dough, jelly-roll style, beginning with each 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
cup (114 grams) sugar long end and meeting in the middle. Place 1 cups (229 grams) all-purpose our
teaspoon (3 grams) salt rolled dough in the freezer until rm, 10 to 15 1 cups (170 grams) almond our
teaspoon (2 grams) cardamom minutes. teaspoon (4 grams) salt
vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds 3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, 1 cup roasted salted pistachios, chopped
scraped and reserved and spritz with water.
(17.3-ounce) package frozen puf pastry, 4. Cut dough log into -inch slices, and place Chocolate Dough:
thawed palmiers about 2 inches apart on prepared 1 cups (229 grams) all-purpose our
pan,* Freeze sliced cookies for 1 hour. teaspoon (4 grams) salt
5. Preheat oven to 425. Bake palmiers for 8 cup (42 grams) cocoa powder
to 10 minutes, turning with a spatula halfway 1 cup (226 grams) unsalted butter, softened
through baking. Let cool completely on a 1 cup (114 grams) confectioners sugar
wire rack. 1 tablespoon fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup roasted salted pistachios, chopped
spring 2016 34
he esential...
brioche
Brioche Tte
page 44
With its golden exterior and lightly sweet, feathery inside, a French brioche
celebrates the beautiful marriage of baking bread with butter.
It's just as swoon-worthy as a croissant, but is far easierand fasterto make.
Use this primer to create pillowy loaves of your own.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Basic
Brioche
Dough
Makes 12 Mini Brioche Tte, 1 large Brioche Tte, 1 Bubble-Top Brioche Loaf,
or 1 Brioche au Chocolat Loaf
At its heart, brioche is the gorgeous love child of a pastry chef and
a bread baker. Think of it as part bread-part cake that combines the
backbone of a dessert mavens repertoire (milk, eggs, sugar, and butter)
with the rich yeast of the boulangerie.
PRO TIP:
To get the right shape, youll
need a specific brioche tte
pan, a fluted loaf pan thats
easily found at shops such as
Food52, Sur La Table, Williams-
Sonoma, and World Market.
spring 2016 38
PRO TIP:
When making
brioche, the quality
of the butter matters.
This is the time to
splurge on a good,
high-fat butter, such
as Kerrygold or Cabot.
PRO TIP:
New yeast rises best.
Always use active
yeast (not rapid-rise)
and double-check
expiration dates.
Brioche au Sucre
cover recipe
Brioche au Chocolat Loaf
BRIOCHE TTE BUBBLE-TOP BRIOCHE LOAF
Makes 1 (8-inch) round loaf Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf
The French name of this brioche refers to the By arranging balls of dough in a single pan, youll
shape (tte means head). One of the most get a loaf of brioche that pulls apart almost like
recognizable forms of brioche, its noted by a monkey bread.
smaller dome (the head) atop the larger round
loaf. Its often simply called a Parisienne. 1. Grease a 9x5-inch loaf pan.
2. If using a scale, portion dough into 8 (120-
1. Spray a large brioche tte mold with baking gram) balls. Alternatively, divide dough evenly
spray with our. into 8 balls. Arrange balls in prepared pan.
2. If using a scale, portion dough into 6 (160- Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free place
to 165-gram) balls. Alternatively, divide dough (75) until dough is pufed, 1 hour to 1 hour and
evenly into 6 balls. Arrange balls in prepared 30 minutes.
pan. Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free 3. Preheat oven to 400.
place (75) until dough is pufed, 1 hour to 1 4. Brush risen loaf with egg wash, and bake for
hour and 30 minutes. 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350,
3. Preheat oven to 400. and continue baking until golden brown and a
4. Brush risen loaf with egg wash, and bake for thermometer inserted in center registers 190,
15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350, 30 to 35 minutes more.
and continue baking until golden brown and a
thermometer inserted in center registers 190, BRIOCHE AU CHOCOLAT LOAF
35 to 40 minutes more. Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf
spring 2016 44
A glorious combination of crunch and cream, these delicate meringue sandwiches shine
in the pastry case spotlight but simply don't survive the rigors of shipping. Here's
our easy-enough-for-beginners recipe for creating these pastel wonders at home.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O'HAGAN / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON / STYLING BY SIDNEY BRAIGEL
thermometer registers 118, about 5 minutes. 7. Spoon or pipe about teaspoon desired
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted filling over flat side of half of cookies. Place
Makes about 36 with the whisk attachment, beat meringue remaining cookies, flat side down, on top of
powder and remaining cup (55 grams) egg filling. Store in airtight containers in refrigerator
We highly recommend using gram measurements whites at low speed until frothy. for up to 1 week, or freeze for up to 1 month.
for this recipe. Precision is key for the best 4. When sugar mixture reaches 118, remove
macaron outcome. from heat. Increase mixer speed to high, and *We used Wilton Icing Colors in Leaf Green,
add sugar mixture in a slow, steady stream, Lemon Yellow, and Rose.
1 cups (150 grams) confectioners sugar being careful not to let sugar mixture hit sides
1 cups (150 grams) almond flour of bowl. Mix at high speed until mixture is Aged Egg Whites
cup (110 grams) aged egg whites, divided glossy with smooth peaks, 10 to 15 minutes. To age egg whites, place 8 to 12 egg whites in a
(see note) Gently fold almond flour mixture into whipped medium bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, and let
Gel food coloring* egg white mixture in thirds, being careful not to stand at room temperature for 3 to 6 hours.
cup plus 2 tablespoons plus teaspoon deflate egg whites. Alternatively, egg whites may be collected over
(150 grams) granulated sugar 5. Spoon mixture into a piping bag fitted with the course of a week or a month and kept in an
3 tablespoons (37 grams) water a #10 or #12 round tip, and pipe 1-inch airtight container in refrigerator. Let egg whites
teaspoon (2 grams) meringue powder circles 2 inches apart on Silpat on back side of come to room temperature before using.
Desired filling (recipes follow) prepared pans. Lift pan to a height of 6 inches
above counter, and drop to release air bubbles.
1. Line the back side of baking sheets with Repeat 3 or 4 times. Let stand at room
Silpat nonstick baking mats. temperature until macarons form a skin, 20 to
2. In a medium bowl, sift together 30 minutes. (Macarons should feel dry to the
confectioners sugar and almond flour. Add touch and not stick to the finger.)
cup (55 grams) egg whites and desired food 6. Preheat oven to 280. Bake for 18 to
coloring. Set aside. 20 minutes, rotating pans halfway through
3. In a small saucepan, bring granulated baking. Remove Silpats from baking sheets
sugar and 3 tablespoons water to a boil over immediately after removing from oven. Let cool The varieties of macaron flavors are seemingly
medium-high heat. Let simmer until a candy completely before filling. (Shells may be placed endless. But here are a few classics to get you
in airtight containers and frozen for up to 1 started.
month before filling and serving.)
RASPBERRY CURD
Makes about 1 cups
spring 2016 48
BY CLOTILDE DUSOULIER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
The French are fiercely particular about their croissants.
with that in mind, We sent Clotilde Dusoulier, the hungry mastermind
behind the Paris-based blog Chocolate & Zucchini, to peel back the flaky
layers and uncover the very best the City of Light has to offer.
The scene is a typical Paris caf in early morning. A that demands the highest quality butter and flour, well-
man approaches the counter in full business attire. Un honed skills, and a lot of time for the dough to develop
express, sil vous plat! As he waits to the clang and hiss its full flavor.
of the espresso machine, he plucks a fresh croissant from
the basket on the zinc bartop and downs it in three bites, The result then is so good that it shuts you right up: two
shielding his tie from the shower of buttery crumbs. irresistibly crunchy tips, a crisp and lightly caramelized
outer shell, a moist and creamy crumb that pulls away
Croissants are everywhere in Paris. From the smell in fluffy strands, and a clean taste of butter. I know such
wafting out of bakeries air vents to the bulging paper dreamy croissants are out there, but who makes the best?
bag brought in by a coworker for the first meeting of the On a weekday morning, I decide to start bright and early
day to little kids devouring their after-school snack, the and hit my list of most-trusted artisans.
golden, crescent-shaped treat is as much a part of the
scenery as the Eiffel Tower. I am so passionate about croissants that I am willing
to trek out to the other side of Paris for a good one,
But it would be nave to imagine you can walk into a hopping onto my bicycle and pedalling my way across
random Paris bakery and find your bliss. Made with the Seine and through multiple arrondissements. But I
leavened puff pastry, hovering between sweet and savory, live in Montmartre, a neighborhood thats teeming with
an outstanding croissant is a true work of craftsmanship award-winning bakeries, so this is where my quest begins.
spring 2016 50
Maison Landemaine
26 rue des Martyrs
9th Arrondissement
Mtro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette
One of 11 neighborhood bakeries run by
a talented young bakepreneur.
maisonlandemaine.com; closed Mondays
I start out on rue des Martyrs, a narrow market street in the
9th arrondissement that climbs its way steeply up the hill
to the heart of Montmartre. It is 7 a.m., and the many food
shops lining the street are still shuttered. But the doors to
Maison Landemaine have just opened, and the buttery
scent of freshly baked croissants invites me in.
22 rue Caulaincourt
18th Arrondissement
Mtro: Blanche
Gontran C herrier Frances favorite celebrity baker. Excellent viennoiseries and specialty
breads, including a rye and red miso loaf.
gontran-cherrier-boulanger.com; closed Wednesdays
Domini ue Sairon
77 avenue du Gnral Leclerc
14th Arrondissement
Mtro: Alesia
Large bakery with a welcoming seating area
to sample your purchases.
dominique-saibron.com; closed Mondays
spring 2016 54
I look at my watch and see that it is now past 9 a.m., so
its a good time to visit Claire Damon, whose bakery is a
ten-minute bike ride across the Montparnasse train tracks.
Damon is the thirty-something, female pastry chef behind
Des Gteaux et du Pain (cakes and bread), a bakery
cum pastry shop designed like an upscale jewelry store,
with dramatic lighting cast on the cakes and loaves. The
atmosphere can be a little intimidating, but I keep my
eye on the prize and order my croissant, with the special
excitement of knowing its a limited-edition product.
Des Gteaux et du Pain Like many late bloomersVasseurs first career was in the
fashion industrythis baker has a very individual approach
to his craft. His range is narrow, and each item he sells is
the result of extensive creative thinking. Indeed Vasseurs
63 Boulevard Pasteur
15th Arrondissement croissant is unlike anyone elses, eschewing the traditional
Mtro: Pasteur shape for a beautiful hybrid, more knot than crescent.
One of the few pastry shops in France run by a
female chef. Stark black dcor and top-notch
range of pastries and breads.
desgateauxetdupain.com; closed Tuesdays
Du Pain et des Ides
34 rue Yves Toudic
10th Arrondissement
Mtro: Jacques Bonsergent
A short range of superbly crafted goods.
Try the signature Pain des Amis, a slow-
fermented loaf with a smoky flavor.
dupainetdesidees.com; closed Saturday and
Sunday
Vasseur uses heritage wheat flours and butter from a small
co-op. These choices dont make his job any easiernon-
standardized ingredients have a mind of their ownbut
they produce a one-of-a-kind croissant with remarkably
attractive golden tips and hints of orange blossom.
spring 2016 60
Poached Leeks with
Eggs and Shallot Vinaigrette
page 64
a taste of
Springtime in the South of France means rose all day and lingering
feasts al fresco. Whether you make this entire mealand we
suggest you door just zero in on a few favorites, we promise
you' ll be itching for your own boules court by dessert.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM DICKEY / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY LOREN WOOD / STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Spring
Herb Quiche
1. In a small bowl, combine vinegar and shallot. Pte Brise 8 ounces shallots, peeled and halved
Let shallot sit for at least 15 minutes or up to Makes dough for 1 (13x3-inch) tart 10 ounces cipollini onions, peeled and halved
1 day. 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2. Add mustard and honey, whisking to 1 cups (185 grams) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt
combine. Stir in thyme, salt, and pepper. teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt teaspoon ground black pepper
Whisking constantly, slowly drizzle in oil until teaspoon (1.5 grams) sugar
combined. Cover and refrigerate for at least cup (115 grams) cold unsalted butter, 1. Preheat oven to 425. Line a rimmed baking
2 hours or up to 5 days. cubed sheet with foil.
2 to 4 tablespoons ice water, ice strained 2. Toss shallots and onions in oil to coat. Season
Note: Its best to let the shallot macerate in the with salt and pepper. Place on prepared pan.
vinegar for as long as possible, up to 1 day, to 1. In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse 3. Roast until tender and golden brown, about
allow the shallot to soften and give an attention- together our, salt, and sugar. Add butter, and 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and let cool
grabbing avor and bite to the vinaigrette. pulse until mixture is crumbly. With processor completely.
spring 2016 64
cup to cup olive oil
1 to 3 tablespoons Grenache vinegar
1 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Tarte au Citron
STAR ANISE SPARKLER
Makes 1 drink
CHERRY CLAFOUTIS
Makes 6 to 8 servings
spring 2016 76
sugar and lavender 8 to 10 times until lavender peaks form. Fold into custard. Refrigerate until
is finely chopped. ready to use.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
whisk attachment, beat eggs and lavender BEAUMES-DE-VENISE CAKE WITH
mixture at medium-high speed until flufy APRICOTS
and tripled in volume, 6 to 8 minutes. (Batter Makes 1 (9-inch) cake
should be pale yellow, thickened, and at a
ribbon consistency.) Fold in melted butter. Sift This cake is named after a French town in the
our over batter, and gently fold in. Pour batter Vaucluse, and the sweet, fortified wine produced
into prepared pan. there. The recipe traditionally calls for Beaumes-
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center de-Venise wine, but we love the taste of a Ctes
comes out clean, about 28 minutes. Let cool du Rhne varietal. Any inexpensive Muscat or
in pan completely. Run a knife around edges of Sauternes will do as well.
cake to loosen from pan.
5. Using a serrated knife, cut cake into 2 layers. 1 cup Ctes du Rhne wine
Brush each layer with Sugar Syrup. Place 1 cake 1 cup chopped dried apricots
layer on a cake plate, and spread with Cream 1 cups (210 grams) all-purpose our
Diplomat. Arrange half of strawberries over 1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder
custard, and top with second cake layer. 1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
6. Roll almond paste into an 8-inch circle cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
about inch thick. Place almond paste round 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus
on top of cake layer. Top with remaining more for greasing pan
strawberries, and brush with currant jelly. cup plus 2 tablespoons (162 grams) sugar,
divided
Sugar Syrup 1 teaspoon lemon zest
Makes cup 1 teaspoon orange zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 tablespoons water 2 large eggs
2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar 2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter,
2 tablespoons orange liqueur cubed
1. In a small saucepan, cook all ingredients over 1. In a small saucepan, heat wine over medium
medium heat until sugar is melted, stirring heat until it begins to simmer. Add apricots, and
LE FRAISIER FRENCH occasionally. Let cool completely. remove from heat. Let stand until cool, about
STRAWBERRY CAKE 30 minutes.
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake Cream Diplomat 2. Preheat oven to 350. Line the bottom of a
Makes 1 cups 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper;
The name for this classic comes from fraise grease bottom and sides of pan with olive oil.
(French for strawberry), and celebrates the 2 cups heavy whipping cream, divided 3. In a small bowl, whisk together our, baking
sweetness of French strawberries. It typically vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds powder, and salt; set aside.
starts with a sponge cake (or Gnoise), split in scraped and reserved 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the
half, doused with simple syrup, filled with cream 6 large egg yolks paddle attachment, beat cup (120 grams)
and almond paste, and garnished with sliced cup (46 grams) sugar softened butter and oil at medium speed for 5 to
strawberries. Heres our easy take on the classic. 3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch 10 seconds. Add cup (139 grams) sugar, lemon
2 tablespoons (30 grams) unsalted butter, zest, orange zest, and vanilla; beat until ufy,
1 cup (185 grams) sugar softened about 3 minutes. Add eggs, one at time, beating
1 tablespoon dried gourmet lavender just until combined after each addition. Gradually
4 large eggs, room temperature 1. In a medium saucepan, bring 1 cups cream add our mixture to butter mixture alternately
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, melted and vanilla bean seeds to a boil. with wine mixture, beginning and ending with our
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour 2. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk mixture, beating just until combined after each
Sugar Syrup (recipe follows) together egg yolks, sugar, and cornstarch. addition. Spread batter into prepared pan.
Cream Diplomat (recipe follows) 3. When cream begins to come to a boil, pour 5. Bake until golden brown and a wooden pick
3 cups sliced fresh strawberries, divided over egg yolk mixture, and whisk until smooth. inserted in center comes out clean, about 30
cup (104 grams) almond paste Pour egg mixture back into saucepan, and cook minutes. Remove from oven, and sprinkle with
3 tablespoons red currant jelly over low heat, whisking until mixture thickens 2 tablespoons (30 grams) cubed butter and
and comes together. Whisk in butter. Cover remaining 2 tablespoons (24 grams) sugar;
1. Preheat oven to 325. Line the bottom of with plastic wrap, directly on surface, and bake 5 minutes more.
an 8-inch springform pan with parchment paper. refrigerate until chilled, about 2 hours. 6. Let cool in pan for 20 minutes. Run a
Grease bottom and sides of pan with melted butter. 4. In a medium bowl, beat remaining cup knife around edges of cake to loosen before
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, process cream with a mixer at high speed until stif removing from pan. Serve cake warm or cool. b
Beaumes-de-Venise Cake with Apricots
spring 2016 78
Bakery Lorraine
F nCh CoNnEcTiOn
Across the country, these bakeries bring an authentic taste of France stateside
BY KAT KINSMAN
Bakery Loaine
SaN AnToNiO, Tx
bakerylorraine.com
Anne Ng and Jeremy Mandrell fell in love on the late shift at Thomas
Kellers Bouchon Bakery in Napa Valley and opened up a place of their
own where they vowed to bake the best croissants in all of Texas. The range
of their French pastries varies with the seasons, but their always-available,
innovatively flavored (think green apple, cereal milk, caramel apple, and dark
chocolate cassis) macarons have become something of a local obsession.
Honor is the patron saint of bakers, and master baker Dominique Geulin
has been among the faithful since his childhood in coastal Normandy,
spent learning traditional bread techniques from his father. The methods
are sacrosanct, but Geulin now proudly places sustainability and local
Pacific Northwest ingredientslike direct-seeded, eco-friendly flour from
Shepherds Grainat the fore in honor of his adopted home: Portland.
Le Marais
SaN FrAnCiScO, Ca
lemaraisbakery.com
After moving to the U.S. for business school, Patrick Ascaso pined for the
pastries of France. Two decades later, he hired a head baker and a pastry
chef and opened up shop in San Francisco, where the team has won
endless accolades for their naturally leavened bread made with locally milled
organic flour, and their levain-based viennoiserie, painstakingly crafted
from countless layers of fermented dough, cultured butter, and air.
Le Marais
81 bake from scratch Bakery Lorraine
Ins Patisserie
Cannele Patierie
QuEeNs, Ny
cannellepatisserie.com
Ins Patierie
^
SeAtTlE, Wa
inespatisserie-seattle.com
Vergennes Laundry
VeRgEnNeS, Vt
vergenneslaundry.squarespace.com
Julianne Jones and her French-born husband, Didier Murat, built the
sleekly styled, wood-red bakery of their dreams in a former laundromat,
initially funded by a Kickstarter campaign and memberships redeemable
in pastry. Throughout the day, the case lls up with tartes sales,
gougres, cannels, nanciers, chouquettes, and puf pastriesperfect
for pairing with a lunchtime glass of old world wine.
Since 1981, many a St. Louis sweet tooth has been sated by Olivier
Leguets legendary strawberry mousseline cakethe signature ofering
at his much-beloved Creve Coeur bakery. The Vendme-raised chef-
owner oversees a staf of 40 who ll the pastry cases with baba au rhum,
fruit tarts, and several dozen avors of macarons daily.
La Fournee
ChIcAgO, Il
Le Marais
lafournette.com
Poupart Bakery
LaFaYeTtE, La
poupartsbakery.com
La Farm Bakery
CaRy, Nc
lafarmbakery.com
The endlessly quotable Lionel Vatinet often says When you are sleeping,
we are bakingwhich means its possible to walk into his La Farm Bakery
at 7 a.m. any given day and pick up one of the 15 kinds of old-world-crafted,
innovatively flavored baguettes, boules, and pains de mie made fresh since
midnight. None of themespecially the signature sourdough, scored-
top five-pound La Farm loafwould look out of place in a European
farmhouse, and the French-born baker and author shares his craft via
hands-on classes where he teaches tricks for re-creating those bakery
conditions in the Tarheel State, thousands of miles from his native France. b
La Farm Bakery
Bakery Lorraine
Patisaterie
home
^
The French are known for their elaborate confections, but you dont
need to be a pastry chef to create many of the classics. Here are
five easy desserts that will transform your table into a tableau.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY NATHAN CARRABBA
Vanilla Madeleines with Cardamom Sugar
page 92
Quick Blood Orange Mille Feuille with Chantilly Cream
page 92
Caramelized Lemon and
Browned Butter Financiers
page 92
spring 2016 88
Strawberry, Pistachio, and Rose Profiteroles
Rose water and strawberries give a spring twist over medium heat. Whisk pastry cream evenly
to these light and airy cream-filled pastries. as it heats so no areas overcook. Bring mixture
to just below a boil (it should be thick).
Pastry Cream: 4. Remove from heat; add butter, stirring well.
2 cups half-and-half Strain mixture through a fine-mesh sieve. Stir
cup (93 grams) granulated sugar, divided in pistachios and rose water. Place in a bowl,
6 egg yolks and cover with plastic wrap directly on surface
cup (45 grams) all-purpose flour to stop a skin from forming. Refrigerate until
Pinch of salt thoroughly chilled and set, about 3 hours.
cup (58 grams) unsalted butter 5. For strawberry glaze: In a small saucepan,
cup pistachios, chopped, plus more for bring strawberries, 2 tablespoons water,
garnish and lemon juice to a boil over medium-
1 tablespoon rose water high heat; reduce heat, and simmer until
reduced and slightly syrupy, about 5 minutes.
Strawberry Glaze: Transfer mixture to a large bowl, and whisk in
cup fresh strawberries, chopped, plus confectioners sugar and rose water until no
more for garnish lumps remain. Set mixture aside.
2 tablespoons water 6. Preheat oven to 425. Line baking sheets
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice with parchment paper.
3 cups (405 grams) confectioners sugar, 7. For choux pastry: In a small saucepan, bring
sifted 1 cup water, butter, and granulated sugar to a
1 teaspoons rose water boil over medium-high heat. Add flour; remove
from heat. With a wooden spoon, work mixture
Choux Pastry: together, and return to heat. Continue working
1 cup water mixture until all flour is incorporated and dough
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter forms a ball. Transfer mixture to the bowl of a
1 tablespoon (12 grams) granulated sugar stand mixer, and let cool for 3 minutes. With
1 cups (194 grams) all-purpose flour mixer running at medium-low speed, add eggs
1 cup eggs (about 4 large eggs and 2 egg and egg whites, one at a time, beating well after
whites) each addition. Place dough in a piping bag fitted
with a round tip. Immediately pipe into golf-
1. For pastry cream: In a medium saucepan, ball-size shapes 2 inches apart on prepared
combine half-and-half and cup (46.5 grams) pans. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce oven
granulated sugar over medium heat. temperature to 350, and bake until golden
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks brown, about 15 minutes more. Remove from
and remaining cup (46.5 grams) granulated oven, and immediately pierce with a paring
sugar until light in color. Add flour and salt, knife to release steam. Remove from pans, and
whisking to combine. let cool completely on a wire rack.
3. Very slowly pour hot half-and-half mixture 8. Pipe pastry cream into centers. Dip tops of
into egg yolk mixture, stirring constantly. When profiteroles in strawberry glaze, and garnish
about half of half-and-half has been added, with pistachios and strawberries.
whisk all of egg yolk mixture into the saucepan
Meringue Nests with Berries
MERINGUE NESTS WITH BERRIES about 3 minutes. Beat in butter. In a large bowl, CARAMELIZED LEMON AND
Makes 8 servings sift together our, cornstarch, baking powder, BROWNED BUTTER FINANCIERS
and salt. Stir our mixture into batter with a Makes 12
These nests are both crispy and slightly chewy at rubber spatula.
the same time. They are the perfect vessel for ripe 3. Spoon batter into prepared pans, lling each The caramelized lemons and brown butter add a
berries and take very little efort. shell almost full. Bake until madeleines spring deep complexity to these buttery mini cakes.
back when pressed, 10 to 12 minutes. Tap
4 egg whites, room temperature madeleines out onto a baking sheet lined with 1 organic lemon, cut into -inch-thick slices
teaspoon vanilla extract parchment paper. cup (93 grams) plus 3 tablespoons
teaspoon (1 gram) cream of tartar 4. In a small bowl, sift together confectioners (36 grams) granulated sugar, divided
cup (138 grams) sugar sugar and cardamom to remove any lumps. Sift cup (174 grams) plus 2 tablespoons
4 cups assorted berries (strawberries, over warm madeleines, and serve immediately. (30 grams) unsalted butter, divided
blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries) cup (150 grams) rmly packed light brown
Garnish: fresh mint leaves QUICK BLOOD ORANGE MILLE sugar
FEUILLE WITH CHANTILLY CREAM teaspoon vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 250. Line a baking sheet Makes 4 servings 5 large egg whites
with parchment paper. 1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose our, plus
2. Beat egg whites, vanilla, and cream of tartar This quick and easy take on the many-layered more for coating pans
with a mixer at medium speed until foamy. (though not quite the thousand the name 1 cup (128 grams) cake our
Increase mixer speed to high, and beat in sugar, promises) French classic delivers creamy richness cup (70 grams) almond meal
1 tablespoon (12.5 grams) at a time, until glossy with a citrus twist. teaspoon (2 grams) baking powder
and stif peaks form. Pinch of salt
3. Drop meringue into eight mounds on 1 cup heavy whipping cream Sweetened whipped crme frache and lemon
prepared pan. Using the back of a spoon, shape cup (46 grams) granulated sugar zest, for serving
meringue into nests, roughly 1 inch high and teaspoon vanilla extract
4 inches wide. 1 (14-ounce) package frozen puf pastry, 1. To caramelize the lemons, dredge lemon
4. Bake meringues until set and dry, about thawed slices in cup (93 grams) granulated sugar.
2 hours. Turn oven of, and let meringues stand cup (32 grams) confectioners sugar In a large nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons
in oven with door closed for 1 hour. 2 blood oranges, sectioned (30 grams) butter over medium heat. In one
5. Fill shells with assorted berries. Garnish with cup sliced almonds, toasted and chopped even layer, add lemons, and cook on both sides
mint, if desired. until golden brown, sticky, and caramelized,
1. Preheat oven to 400. 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer slices onto a cutting
VANILLA MADELEINES WITH 2. For the chantilly cream: In the bowl of a board, and nely chop.
CARDAMOM SUGAR stand mixer tted with the whisk attachment, 2. Preheat oven to 400. Grease and our
Makes 24 beat cream, granulated sugar, and vanilla at high two 6-cavity mini loaf pans. In a small heavy-
speed until soft peaks begin to form. Cover and bottomed skillet, heat remaining cup (174
These two-bite treats are simple to make and refrigerate until serving. grams) butter over medium heat. Cook,
excellent with a strong cup of cofee in the 3. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. stirring occasionally, until butter turns golden
morning. Sprinkle a small amount of our onto a dry work brown and smells nutty. Immediately transfer
surface. Roll puf pastry to -inch thickness. to a small bowl to stop the cooking process.
3 extra-large eggs Using a 3-inch round cutter dipped in our, Whisk in brown sugar, vanilla, chopped lemon,
cup (144 grams) granulated sugar cut puf pastry into 12 circles. Place puf pastry egg whites, and remaining 3 tablespoons (36
1 teaspoon vanilla extract rounds on prepared pan. grams) granulated sugar.
cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, melted 4. Place a second baking sheet on top of the puf 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together all-
and cooled pastry rounds, and place pans in the oven. Bake purpose our, cake our, almond meal, baking
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose our pastry rounds until lightly browned and cooked powder, and salt. Fold dry ingredients into
cup (36 grams) cornstarch through, about 30 minutes. Check the rounds brown butter mixture until combined.
teaspoon (3 grams) baking powder after 20 minutes to prevent over browning. 4. Spoon batter into prepared pans, and bake
teaspoon (1 gram) kosher salt Remove from oven, and let cool completely. until risen and lightly browned, but still slightly
cup (32 grams) confectioners sugar 5. Transfer chantilly cream to a piping bag tted soft in the center, about 15 minutes. Let cool
1 teaspoons (3 grams) cardamom with a small tip. Pipe cream evenly over surface 10 minutes, then invert onto a wire rack and
of a pastry round. Top with another pasty let cool competely. Serve nanciers with
1. Preheat oven to 375. Grease 2 nonstick round, and repeat process of adding cream, sweetened crme frache and lemon zest. b
madeleine pans. ending with one pastry round. Dust tops of
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer tted with the mille feuilles with confectioners sugar. Top with
paddle attachment, beat eggs, granulated blood orange sections and almonds.
sugar, and vanilla at medium speed until ufy,
spring 2016 92
baking with
FROMAGE
in France, cheese and bread
are intricately linked
any visitor can recall
at least one picnic with
a baguette and creamy
wedge. Here, we've put
the two together with
a handful of company-
worthy recipes that
highlight the majesty
of baking with fromage.
Yossy Arefi uses nature as her baking guide year-round. In her debut
cookbook, Sweeter off the Vine (Ten Speed Press; available March 22), the
photographer, stylist, and food blogger demonstrates how to utilize
the freshest ingredients available with more than 70 recipes, divided
into four sections by season. Here, we chat with Yossy, who formerly
worked as the baker and cake decorator at New York Citys Alices Tea
Cup on the Upper East Side, about her decision to singlehandedly
write and photograph images for the book (wow!), her passions for
baking and photography, and how she combined the two with her
award-winning food blog, Apt. 2B Baking Co.
Has it always been important to you to document the food you make?
Ive always had an interest in photography. It was something I had
done as a hobby since high school when growing up in Seattle,
Washington. Before I moved to New York City in 2007, I didnt know
food photography and food styling could be a job, or that it was an
industry I could get into. When blogging became popular, I realized
I could combine my love for photography and my love for baking.
Towards the end of my time working in the restaurant industry in
2010, I started my blog Apt. 2B Baking Co., and began getting offers for
photography or recipe-related freelance work. That allowed me to be
able to leave the restaurant in 2012, and switch gears into a different
career path.
How has your blog, Apt. 2B Baking Co., developed over the
past few years?
Blogging has become a much bigger industry than when I
started my site. I used to consider it to be more of a hobby, but
now its definitely part of my job. I devote a lot of time, effort,
and energy to making interesting content that will stand out,
which can be hard because there are so many blogs now. Even
though I have been at it for a long time, I still want to make
interesting content people are drawn to.
I think the visuals of my blog are different from whats out
there. I still shoot all my photography for Apt. 2B Baking Co.
solely with film, which is pretty rare. Thats been important
to me because its not always possible to shoot my professional
work with film for a number of reasons.
How would you like for Sweeter off the Vine to inspire
those who bake from it?
I hope readers are inspired to bake with the seasons. There
are so many beautiful things in every season, even in
winter, to bake with. I hope theyre inspired to visit their local
market to see whats fresh, and go home to make some
delicious dessert.
and may fall apart a bit at first, but it will come LEMON VERBENA OLIVE OIL CAKE line it with parchment paper, and butter that,
together eventually. If at any point the bits of Makes 1 (9-inch) cake too. Dust the pan and paper with flour.
butter seem soft, slide the dough onto a baking 2. Combine the sugar and lemon verbena in
sheet, and refrigerate for a few minutes until As evidenced by its name, lemon verbena has a the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel
the butter has hardened up a bit. By the end citrusy flavor that pairs exceptionally well with blade or in a mortar. Pulse or grind the sugar
of the first three turns, the dough will begin to lemon zest and fruity olive oil in this cake. and lemon verbena until the leaves are finely
resemble a cohesive mass. ground and the sugar is fragrant.
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar 3. Whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda,
Crme Frache cup loosely packed fresh lemon verbena and salt together in a small bowl.
Makes about 1 cup (225 grams) leaves (about 20) 4. In a separate bowl, whisk the lemon verbena
1 cups (225 grams) all-purpose flour sugar, olive oil, melted butter, and lemon zest
Crme frache is a tart French-style sour cream. 1 teaspoon baking powder together. Add the eggs and whisk for 30 more
It is a bit more subtle in flavor than American sour teaspoon baking soda seconds. Whisk in the kefir, then use a rubber
cream, and I love to use it both as a garnish and teaspoon salt spatula to fold in the dry ingredients, mixing
as an ingredient in sweet and savory cooking. cup (175ml) fruity olive oil until combined and smooth.
cup (55 grams) unsalted butter, melted 5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan, tap
1 cup (240ml) heavy whipping cream and cooled it gently on the counter to release any air
2 tablespoons buttermilk 1 teaspoon lemon zest bubbles, and bake until the cake is pufed and
4 large eggs, at room temperature golden and a wooden pick inserted in the center
1. Stir the cream and buttermilk together in 1 cup (240ml) whole-milk kefir or comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool
a glass container. Cover and let sit at room buttermilk, at room temperature the cake in the pan on a rack for 20 minutes,
temperature for 12 to 24 hours or until the 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar, to finish then remove the cake from the pan to cool
cream has thickened to the consistency of soft completely. Dust the cooled cake with a bit of
sour cream and has a tart, tangy flavor. Store 1. Position a rack in the center of the oven, confectioners sugar just before serving, if you
the crme frache in the refrigerator, covered, and preheat to 350F (180C/ Gas Mark 4). like. This cake will keep in an airtight container
for up to 7 days. Butter a 9-inch cake pan at least 2 inches tall, at room temperature for up to 3 days. b
Tarte Tatin
This upside-down
caramelized apple dessert
is as French as apple pie
BY JENNIFER V. COLE PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES
I In the heart of the Loire Valley, about 100 miles south of Paris, the hillsides
are swathed in Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Franc vines. Broad
rivers snake their way through the region. Immaculately restored chteaux
anchor tiny towns from Blois to Chenonceaumajestic reminders of bygone days. Its
here, in this verdant slice of the Hexagon, that one of the most universally loved and
recognized of all French desserts was born: Tarte Tatin.
A Tarte Tatin is simply an upside-down apple tart. But thats like saying Versailles was
a house. Buttery, slightly salty pastry dough spotlights apples cooked to a rich, deep
amber. Its modest in its simplicity. Yet, when eaten warm from the oven, this elegantly
rustic dessert becomes deeply personala mouth epiphany.
Dough:
1 cups (175 grams) all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon (4 grams) sugar
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, cubed
4 to 8 tablespoons ice water
Filling:
5 apples (Gala, Braeburn, and Golden
Delicious are great choices, but almost any
kind will do)
Juice of 1 lemon
5 tablespoons (60 grams) sugar, divided
4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter
battleof the
BAKERS
Three American bakers will travel to Paris
to represent America in whats been called
the Olympic Games of Baking , one of the most
prestigious baking competitions on the planet :
La Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie . Game on .
BY SOPHIA JONES
Just like every baker who has been selected to compete on the Bread
Bakers Guild Team USA before them, Nicholas Scott Giusto, Jeffrey
de Leon, and Jacob Baggenstos each endured a series of preliminary
tryouts to prove they have the skill and endurance required to
represent America on an international stage in the largest competition
of their craft. In February 2016 (as we went to press), the three men
were getting ready to compete as Bread Bakers Guild Team USA
in La Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, or the Bakery World Cup.
Over the course of the four-day competition held in Paris, France,
12 international teams, with three bakers each, will wear their countries
colors as they demonstrate their technical abilitiesin both taste and
presentationto vie for the world title.
Since the first Bakery World Cup in 1994, the Bread Bakers Guild of
America has sponsored some of the finest American bakers from the
past two decades on Team USA. The Cup has four themed competitions:
Baguette and Bread of the World, Viennoiserie, Artistic Creation, and for the
first time in 2016, Savory Baking. Now in its eighth round, the Cup has
stayed true to its original purpose of fostering goodwill and innovation in
artisan baking, while advancing the quality of bread on an international
scale. Despite the language barriers, differing customs and beliefs, and
thousands of miles that separate Team USA from its opponents, each
competitor shares a common bond that is as pure as it is universal, and the
foundation on which the Bakery World Cup was built: a love of baking.
stems from the idea of maintaining the legacy of great American Baking with Fromage
bakers whose roots have grown deep for generations. When I look back at my time as Pages 93-98
Belle Chevre goat cheese, 256-732-4801,
a young cook, I saw my chefs go through this process. I never thought that I would bellechevre.com. Saint Andr Triple Cream cows
have the distinction of competing in this arena for the title of World Champion. milk cheese and Herv Mons Camembert from
Whole Foods Market, wholefoodsmarket.com.
Collaborating with this team of amazing bakers and mentors has led me to believe Moses Sleeper brie-style cheese from Jasper
that we have no choice but to pursue greatness. Hill Farm, 802-533-2566, jasperhillfarm.com.
FAVORITE FRENCH DESSERT: A classic crme brle, a basic custard that, Battle of the Bakers
in all of its simplicity, is very difficult to do to perfection. And when you find that Pages 111-112
2012 Bakery World Cup photos courtesy of
sweet vanilla cream hidden under the crisp shatter of the molten sugar shell, there's T. Caron and AB3C; photo of Jacob Baggenstos
nowhere you'd rather be than right there, in that moment, enjoying every last bit." b pastries courtesy of Clare Barboza and Bakery
Nouveau; 2016 Team USA photos courtesy of
Jerod Pfeffer and the Bread Bakers Guild of
To see how Team USA fares in the 2016 Cup visit europain.com or coupelouislesafre.com. America.
You can also view clips of past competitions at louislesafrecup-webtv.com.
E Where to Find It
Rpublique Rustica Bakery Common Bond
Los Angeles, California Minneapolis, Minnesota Houston, Texas
Margarita Manzke stocks the pastry cases The caramelized outer shell snapsnot Known for elegant renditions of European
with edible art at this bakery-by-day/ crumblesas you sink your teeth into it. baked goodsbrioche, kugelhopf, croissants
restaurant-by-night. Dark chocolate is Chewy, buttery layers surround generous this bright bakeshop produces pain au
tucked into a tight coil of laminated dough chocolate ganache that runs end-to-end of chocolat so airy that a cross-section looks
that practically sighs as you bite into it. the pastry. like a piece of honeycomb.
republiquela.com rusticabakery.com wearecommonbond.com