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Africa-Egypt v1 m56577569830500661 PDF
Africa-Egypt v1 m56577569830500661 PDF
Egypt
HIGHLIGHTS
Cairo (p86) Witness life and death in epic HOW MUCH?
proportions in this carpet-weaving, film- Cup of tea US$0.55
making city of pyramids.
Newspaper US$0.10
White Desert (p109) Visit extraordinary
landscapes predating the Pharaohs. Small inlaid box US$6
Sinai (p98) Explore the sculpted inter- Camel ride per hour US$4.50
ior and coral-garden fringe of Egypts
Egypt is undeniably one of the worlds great travel destinations and many of its wondrous Museum admission US$7
Bedouin heartland.
sights need no introduction. It is for this very reason, however, that while horse-riding, Nile Cruise (p94) Enjoy intimate views of
LONELY PLANET INDEX
tomb-raiding and desert safari are all possible, the chances of your enjoying them alone riverside life crowned by the splendours
(particularly given the vigilant police protection occasioned by recent events) is minimal. of Thebes. 1L petrol US$0.05
Sound-and-light show at Abu Simbel (p119)
Nor is this a new phenomenon. Even in the 19th century, a writer commented peevishly on 1L bottled water US$0.50
Be dazzled by modern imagery projected
EGYPT
EGYPT
the number of pleasure boats cruising the Nile. across resurrected temple stones. Bottle of Stella US$1.80
Souvenir T-shirt US$5.20
This continues to be the reality of Egypts great sights: for half the year they are over- CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Fuul sandwich US$0.10
crowded and beset by overenthusiastic hawkers and guides, and for the other half, they From December to February, Lower Egypt
are too hot to handle. Forewarned is forearmed, however, and for many people the best (Cairo and north) is often overcast and chilly,
of Egypt is realised not so much through the iconic spectacle of ancient monuments, great with regular downpours of rain in Alexan-
dria, and below-zero temperatures at night boat-spotter by the Suez Canal (p102)
though they are, but by chats with a taxi driver, the surprise gathering of a thousand egrets
in Sinai, while Upper Egypt (south of Cairo) and sample dates in Siwa oasis (p108).
in the trees along the Nile, or hearing a nation in prayer at sunset. is warm with clear, blue skies.
Between June and September, temperatures HISTORY
range from 31C on the Mediterranean coast Life on the Nile
to an unbearable 50C in Aswan. Most of Egypts landmass consists of deserts,
The best time to visit is in spring (March to with the nations lifeblood, the Nile River,
April) or autumn (October and November) a green band shivering along the length of
when you should pack for hot weather in the the country, drawing to it the nations settle-
south and include a light jacket for the north. ments, including the disproportionately large
capital, Cairo. Charismatic rivers flow through
ITINERARIES many cities in the world but few govern the
Three Days Be seduced by the pyramids at ebb and flow of a countrys fortunes quite as
the sound-and-light show (p119); chart significantly as the Nile has shaped Egypt and
FAST FACTS the origins of ancient Egypt in Memphis its shifting capitals of the Delta.
Area 997,739 sq km (p98) and Saqqara (p98); go swapping From at least 4000 BC, small settlements
old lamps for new in Islamic Cairo (p90) clung together in loose affiliations along the
ATMs In most large towns
and flex the ocular muscles at a belly- Nile, developing into two important states.
Borders Libya, Sudan, Israel and the dancing venue (p96). The delta area in the north became known
Palestinian Territories Two Weeks When youve exhausted Cairo, as Lower Egypt, and the area upstream of the
Budget US$50 per day (winter); US$30 per take the overnight train to Luxor (p111) delta was called Upper Egypt. The unification
day (summer) and wake up in Thebes (p111) for three of these two states, around 3100 BC, by the
days of tomb and temple visiting. Then Pharaoh Menes sewed the seeds for the flow-
Capital Cairo
lounge on a boat to Aswan (p116) visit- ering of ancient Egyptian civilisation.
Language Arabic ing Edfu (p116) and Kom Ombo (p116)
Money Egyptian pound; US$1 = E6 en route, and make time to savour Abu Old, Middle & New Kingdoms
Simbel (p119) by night. Ancient Egyptian history comprises three
Population 78.9 million
One Month Fly back to Luxor and retrace principal kingdoms. The pyramids date from
Seasons Winter/high season (October to April); the old caravan route through the oases the Old Kingdom (26702150 BC), when
summer/low season (May to September) of the Western Desert (p108), allowing lively trade made ambitious building projects
Telephone country code %20; international access code %00 three days to chill in the coffeehouses of possible. Ruling from the nearby capital of
Time GMT +2
Alexandria (p105), or swim with angel Memphis, Pharaoh Zoser and his chief archi-
fish at the Red Sea resort of Dahab (p99). tect, Imhotep, built the pyramid at Saqqara.
Visa Required for citizens of most countries Theres also time to listen for command- Subsequent Pharaohs constructed ever larger
ments on Mt Sinai (p100), become a temples and pyramids, culminating in the
84 EGYPT History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E G Y P T C u l t u re 85
EGYPT 0
0
150 km
90 miles
tremists, declaring a state of emergency that
Tobruk
continues until today.
Gulf of
Sallum MEDITERRANEAN Tel Aviv While Mubarak has been canny in reha-
Sidi Barani AMMAN
Amsaad Sallum
55
Marsa
Matruh
SEA Damietta Jerusalem bilitating Egypts relations with Arab states
Port Rafah
Alexandria Said Al-Arish ISRAEL &THE without abandoning the treaty with Israel, he
PALESTINIAN
Suez Canal
LIBYA
LIBYAN Sidi Abdel Rahman 1
55
TERRITORIES has not been so successful in domestic policy.
Tanta
PLATEAU El Alamein Burg al-Arab
International Airport
Ismailia
3 3
The 1980s were marked by violence, partly in
11
44 SINAI JORDAN response to the countrys dismal economic
PENINSULA situation. Between 1993 and 1997, Egypts
Jaghbub 33
Giza CAIRO Suez
Siwa
Oasis Qara
Saqqara Memphis 33
Eilat largest Islamist opposition group targeted for-
Al-Fayoum Oasis Dahshur Ras Sudr St Katherine
Oasis Qattara
Depression Medinat Pyramid Ain & Taba Taba Aqaba eign travellers in its campaign to overthrow
a
of Meidum Sukhna Protectorates
al-Fayoum the government, culminating in the massacre
Aqab
Siwa Zafarana Mt Sinai
Gu
Beni Suef 54 (Gebel Musa) Nuweiba of 58 holidaymakers at the Funerary Temple
lf o
Wadi Rayyan 2 (2285m)
River
Bahariyya South Gala
of Hatshepsut in Luxor.
EGYPT
of
EGYPT
Protectorate
f S
Oasis Plateau Dahab
SAUDI ARABIA
ue
Nile
Ras Al-Tor
z
Bawiti BLACK
Gulf
Minya
DESERT Gharib
66 Egypt Today
Sharm
GH
Deir
Mawas
Mallawi
Tell al-Amarna
el-Sheikh The Luxor massacre destroyed grass-roots
Hurghada Sue
AR
Qasr al-
WHITE
DESERT Asyut EASTERN
z
Jed support for militant groups and a period
D A
dah
Farafra (A R A B I A N) 44 P of calm ensued until October 2004, when a
Ni
DESERT ort
BU
Sud
le
an bomb at Taba, on the border with Israel, killed
Ri
2
RE
Safaga Duba and Jeddah
ve
MUH
34. Mubarak introduced some democratic
r
Abu Minqar Farafra Sohag
D
77
Oasis Qift Qena Brother Island
SE
Al-Balyana measures but not enough to appease militant
A R IQ
57
A
Abydos Al-Quseir
Dakhla Dendara 88
groups. After sporadic violence in Cairo, three
MO
Qus
Oasis Valley of the Kings
Al-Qasr Luxor bombs at Sharm el-Sheikh killed 64 people,
UN
WESTERN
(L I B Y A N) Al-Kharga 53
mostly Egyptians. Various groups claimed
TA
DESERT Mut Esna
RE
Marsa
IN
Kharga Oasis Edfu
99
Alam responsibility and tourism suffered temporar-
D
S
Gebel Hamata
Great Sand Sea 2 (1977m) ily. In April 2006 three further bombs claimed
SE
Kom Ombo
23 lives in Dahab, proving that the situation
A
Temple of
Baris Sobek & Haroeris
Limestone
Aswan is far from resolved.
Plateau Temple of Philae
Berenice Mukawwa Egypt is in serious economic turmoil, and
Tropic of Cancer Island
with an ever-burgeoning population, rising
Lake unemployment, and a decline in tourism re-
Nasser
44 sulting from continuing violence, the future
Gilf Temples of
Abu Simbel
looks precarious.
Kebir
Abu Simbel
Halaib
govern children, but men are kept in abey- alabaster work and fine cotton production. day, surrounded by a mangle of horn-blowing The eastern end of Downtown is at Midan
ance on a wish and a promise and are very Unfortunately, much of the work in the tour- cars, buried under clouds of exhaust fumes, el- Ataba, on the edge of Islamic Cairo. With
often seen as a resource. Women who work ist shops of Giza and Luxor is of poor quality bowed into the crowd, and tricked into being Khan al-Khalili bazaar at its core, this is the
are entitled to keep their money rather than and master craftsmen are hard to locate. guided where you didnt want to go, it takes a ebullient, medieval heart of Cairo.
share it with their husbands. special patience to enjoy the city. In the middle of the Nile is the island neigh-
The huge discrepancy between rich and ENVIRONMENT But theres another side to Cairo: quite bourhood of Zamalek, historically favoured
poor is the main source of political tension. Egypts central feature is the Nile Valley, either apart from the world-class attractions of the by ruling colonials and still a relatively upmar-
side of which are barren plateaus punctuated pyramids, Egyptian museum and Islamic ket enclave with foreign residents, midrange
PEOPLE by occasional escarpments and oases. The treasures, there are boulevards of flame trees; hotels and interesting restaurants and bars.
Egypt has the second-highest population in highest mountains are Mt Sinai (Gebel Musa; overhanging balconies befitting of a Roberts Heavy on concrete and light on charm, the
Africa. Growing at a rate of 2% annually, it 2285m) and Mt St Katherine (Gebel Katrin; lithograph; and splashes of sunlight glanc- west bank of the Nile is mostly residential.
places enormous strain on infrastructure and 2637m), in the Sinai Peninsular. ing off brass lamps. In quiet contrast to the Giza stretches 20km either side of Pyramids
the national economy. Unemployment is of- Environmental awareness is not top prior- city, the Nile flows equally through fashion- Rd (Sharia al-Haram) that ends, as expected,
ficially 10%; unofficially its much higher. ity in Egypt: Cairo is thick with smog; the able suburb and island allotment, past the at the foot of the Pyramids.
EGYPT
EGYPT
There are three main racial groups: the Red Sea coast is threatened by opportunistic mausoleums of the dead now occupied by
Hamito-Semites of the Nile (including the development and freshwater lakes are blighted the living and alongside luxury hotels and Maps
Berbers of Siwa in the Western Desert); by agricultural toxins. floating palaces. The American University in Cairo Press pub-
Bedouin Arab nomads, who migrated from On a positive note, there are now 21 pro- lishes Cairo Maps: the Practical Guide (E30),
Arabia and live mostly in Sinai; and the Nu- tected areas throughout Egypt and 19 more HISTORY a collection of 40 street maps with index.
bians, who inhabit the Aswan area. proposed, and the government is beginning In terms of Egypts history, Cairo is a relatively
About 94% of Egypts population is Mus- to encourage responsible tourism. modern capital, founded in AD 969 by the Is- INFORMATION
lim; the remainder is Coptic Christian. The lamic Fatimid dynasty over the ruins of earlier Bookshops
two communities peacefully coexist. Magic FOOD & DRINK Roman and Islamic settlements. Much of the American University in Cairo (AUC) Bookshop (Map
plays a role in many peoples lives. A combination of Arabic and Mediterranean in- Fatimid city remains today: the great mosque pp92-3; %797 5370; Sharia Mohammed Mahmoud,
fluences, Egypts cuisine is focused on minced, and university of Al-Azhar are still important Downtown; h9am-6pm Sat-Thu)
ARTS & CRAFTS seasoned meat, locally made cheese and fresh Islamic resource centres, while the gates of Diwan (Map pp88-9; %736 2578; 159 Sharia 26th of
Thirty years after her death, Umm Kolthum vegetables such as tomatoes and aubergines. Bab an-Nasr, Bab al-Futuh and Bab Zuweila July, Zamalek; h9am-11.30pm)
is still the classical voice of Egypt. Staples include fuul (fava beans cooked with oil straddle the citys main thoroughfares. Lehnert & Landrock (Map pp92-3; 44 Sharia Sherif,
Ahmed Adawiyya is the founding father and lemon), taamiyya (felafel), kushari (mix- Despite spilling beyond its walls, Cairo re- Downtown; h9.30am-2pm & 4-7.30pm Mon-Fri,
of al-jeel (the generation) and shaabi (popu- ture of noodles, rice and lentils) and unleavened mained a medieval city at heart for 900 years. 9.30am-2pm Sat) Theres a convenient branch opposite the
lar), both forms of repetitive, disposable pop bread. Not surprisingly, fish (like Nile perch and It wasnt until the mid-19th century that it Egyptian Museum.
made internationally likeable by his successor, sea bream) is an important part of the diet. started to change significantly.
Hakim. Amr Diab is an equally popular male Birds (as youll note from the dovecotes) Before the 1860s, Cairo extended west as Emergency
star, with sophisticated production and acces- form an integral part of Egyptian culture, and far as what is today Midan Opera, surrounded Ambulance (%123)
sible rhythms that have helped bring Arabic pigeon stuffed with rice and raisins is a by a swampy plain flooded annually by the Fire department (%180)
music to a wider audience. popular delicacy. Nile. In 1863 French-educated Ismail came Police (%122)
Somewhat ignored locally, but fted abroad, Although beer and arrak are produced lo- to power, inviting architects from Europe to Tourist police (%126)
Nubian music has a warm sound with simple cally, fresh fruit juices are the favoured drink. design a modern Cairo beside the old Islamic
melodies. The most famous exponent is Ali Sweet mint tea and Turkish coffee are indispen- city. The building boom set in place continues Internet Access
Hassan Kuban. sable punctuations to any social interaction. today, with the citys boundaries constantly 4U Internet Caf (Map pp92-3; %575 9304; 1st fl, 8
The work of the recently deceased Nobel expanding into the surrounding desert. Midan Talaat Harb, Downtown; per hr E5; h24hr)
prize-winner Naguib Mahfouz is revered in
Arabic literature for its profound expression
of Egyptian life and language. His works in-
CAIRO Although the pyramids are now almost en-
gulfed by the city, they more properly belong
to the capital of ancient Egypt at Memphis,
Hany Internet Cafe (Map pp92-3; %395 1985; 16
Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat, Downtown; per hr E3; h24hr)
Internet Egypt (Map pp92-3; Nile Hilton Shopping
clude The Cairo Trilogy and Children of the %02 / pop 11 million 22km to the south. Mall, Corniche el-Nil, Downtown; per hr E10; h9am-
Alley, still banned in Egypt as blasphemous. In many ways, Cairo is Egypt, a top-heavy midnight)
Nawal al-Saadawis works include Woman capital that dominates the country as it domi- ORIENTATION Internet@Cafe (Map pp88-9; 25 Sharia Ismail Moham-
at Point Zero and The Hidden Face of Eve nates Arabic culture, a magnet that draws It may be vast, but Cairo is surprisingly med, Zamalek; per hr E5; h9am-1am)
(banned in Egypt). Ahdaf Soueif also tackles people from subsistence livelihoods along the easy to navigate. Midan Tahrir is the cen-
taboo subjects; she writes in English and her Nile Valley towards promises of a better life. tre. Northeast of Tahrir is Downtown, a busy Medical Services
The Map of Love was short listed for the pres- What they find when they arrive among the commercial district centred on Sharia Talaat Al-Ezaby Pharmacy Bulaq (Map pp88-9; Arcadia Mall,
tigious Booker Prize. chaos and charisma of Cairo depends on their Harb. This is where most budget hotels and Corniche el-Nil); Heliopolis (%414 8467; 1 Sharia Tayseer;
Egypt has many traditional craft industries, luck and wusta (contacts/influence). restaurants are clustered. Midan Ramses, the h24hr)
such as silk carpet weaving, copper and brass Visitors tend to enjoy Cairo in proportion citys main train station, marks the northern Al-Salam Hospital (Map pp88-9; %524 0250, emer-
beating, inlaid woodwork, papyrus painting, to their tolerance levels. On a hot summers end of Downtown. gency 524 0077; Sharia Syria, Mohandiseen)
88 CAIRO lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CAIRO 89
0 1 km
CAIRO 0 0.5 miles
To To Tanta (58km);
A B C D E F G H
Nile Barrages Ismailia (120km)
(15km)
Imbaba
Airport
Imbaba Ain Shams
d)
Bridge rt R
Shubra Midan irpo
1 Imbaba Abbassiyya b a (A 1
Cairo
Al- Uru
Shubra
Exhibition
Grounds To Heliopolis (1km);
Midan Al-Mazar Bus Station
al-Kit Kat Geziret Badran Abbassiyya
1 ses (11km); Cairo
29 Sud
an
Ghamra Ram Al-Wahli International Airport
Taha
Hussein
Sahafayeen Masarra (12km)
37
Nile Riv
Ah Zamalek
m Ism Ra
ed ail Midan 48 m
Mo Ramses se tad
To
O
ra ha 13 Train Ghamra Sakakini s Al-Is
er
bi Midan El-Nil 36 mm 43 3 Station
Desert Sphinx ed
Highway to INFORMATION
26
id)
Alexandria (15km) 45 th Maahad el-Swissry Al-Ezaby Pharmacy.............................1 C1
of
r Sa
Jul 18 40 41 Mubarak
EGYPT
Al-Salam Hospital...............................2 A2
EGYPT
Al
Midan y Gi (Midan Ramses) Midan
Bu
-
2 Libnan Mohandiseen 16 Sayed al-Bakry sr Ramses Australian Embassy............................ 3 C2 2
id (
lem
7 38 British Embassy...................................4 C4
Clo
6
t Sa
Sa
44 49 Canadian Embassy............................. 5 C4
tB
8
a
Por
lah
Orabi
iyy
ey
Diwan................................................6 C2 ) To Suez
Bulaq de
san
Sa
ab
s
Ar
to
se
Ha
Au 8 A2
al-
Eritrean Embassy................................
m
Agouza r (
Ra
12 20 -Nas
al
2 Tariq an
ESTS...................................................9 C4
ow
al-Hakim
Al-Gebel al-Ahmar
ad
iat
[email protected] C2
Muski
35 Israeli Embassy..................................14 B4
Al-
6th of October Downtown Mu
ski Jordanian Embassy...........................15 B4
Egyptian 30
Cairo Al-Azhar Northern Libyan Embassy................................16 B2
Museum 42
Tower Midan Sudanese Consulate.........................17 C3
3 Shooting Talaat Khan al-Khalili Cemetery 3
Telephone Centrale.......................... 18 C2
Club Harb Mohammed
Midan Naguib 32 19
Tahrir Sadat (Midan
Tahrir) SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Nadi as-Seid 46
Bab Midan Al-Azhar Mosque.............................19 E3
Abdeen
Opera See Central Cairo al-Luq Palace Bab al-Khalq 34 22
Bab al-Futuh.....................................20 E2
Sud
Map (pp923)
Bab an-Nasr......................................21 F3
an
Midan Midan el-Galaa 17 Bab Zuweila......................................22 E3
Doqqi 5 Abdeen Al-Azhar
Beit el-Suhaymi.................................23 E3
Tahrir
Ma
4 Park
y
Doqqi 15 Citadel..............................................24 E4
10 47 Darb al-
al-Ain
ryu
)
Zaghloul
id
26
Garden Dok Dok Felucca Landing Stage.......26 C4
Sa
Qasr
Behoos
Can
id
Sa
il
Abou El Sid...................................... 38 C2
e el-N
5 Aqueduct of An
Abou Shakra.................................... 39 C4 5
-Nas L'Aubergine.....................................40 C2
Cornich
r Mo
ham
Midan Rhoda Al-Malek me DRINKING
d
Giza as-Saleh Deals................................................41 C2
Ta
Fishawi's...........................................42 E3
riq
Salah Sa
l lem Muqattam City La Bodega......................................(see 38)
an
aisa
kF Rive Gauche.....................................43 C2
-N
ale
as
M Simonds...........................................44 C2
Al-
r (
A
Ain as-Sira
uto
) Giza Midan Old Cairo ENTERTAINMENT
am
Har
str
Train Giza Mosque of Al-Tannoura Egyptian Heritage
(Al-
ad
Station Amr ibn al-As
Rd Dance Troupe...........................(see 24)
e)
ids
am
Maryutia Canal
Coptic
Pyr Cairo Jazz Club.................................45 B2
6 Mar Cairo Southern Cairo Opera House.......................... 46 C3 6
Girgis 33 Cemetery
25 Casablanca Club...............................47 B4
To Giza
Pyramids (9km); Masr al-Qadimah 28
TRANSPORT
Alexandria (220km)
To Memphis (24km); Abbassiyya (Sinai) Bus Terminal....... 48 G2
Saqqara (30km); To Ma'adi Turgoman Garage............................ 49 D2
Dahshur (35km) To Ma'adi (8km) (8km)
90 CAIRO Dangers & Annoyances lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Sights 91
Money SIGHTS Nasr (Gate of Victory; Map pp889) and the Old Cairo
There are banks, foreign exchange bureaus Egyptian Museum rounded Bab al-Futuh (Gate of Conquests; Map Once known as Babylon, the oldest part of
and ATMs all over town. Banque Misr ex- A bewildering number of exhibits (over pp889) were built in 1087. Returning to the Cairo was built by Coptic Christians and re-
change office at the Nile Hilton on the cor- 100,000) are housed in the Egyptian Museum bazaar via Sharia al-Muizz li-Din Allah, dont mains a Christian enclave to this day. The Cop-
niche is open 24 hours, as are the airport (Map pp92-3; %575 4319; Midan Tahrir, Downtown; adult/ miss the spectacular Beit el-Suhaymi (Darb al- tic Museum (Map pp88-9; %363 9742; Sharia Mar Girgis;
money-changing booths. All the big hotels student E60/30; h9am-6.15pm). In addition, the Asfar; Map pp88-9; adult/student E20/10; h9am-5pm), adult/student E35/20; h9am-4pm), with mosaics,
have ATMs. museum is old, chaotic, label-less and lack- a beautifully restored complex of three manuscripts and tapestries, and the Hanging
Amex (Map pp92-3; %574 7991; 15 Sharia Qasr el-Nil, lustre in its display of treasures. houses, tucked down an alley. This part of Church (Kineeset al-Muallaqa; Map pp88-9; Sharia Mar Girgis;
Downtown; h9am-4.30pm) Should you bother going? Without doubt, Islamic Cairo is home to the citys most his- admission free; hmass 8-11am Fri, 7-10am Sun), the cen-
Thomas Cook (Map pp92-3; %574 3955; 17 Sharia yes, but it helps to have a plan. To gain a toric prayer-schools, including the Madrassa tre of Coptic worship, are interesting to visit.
Mahmoud Bassiouni, Downtown; h9am-4.30pm Sat-Thu) purchase on the magnificence of the muse- & Mausoleum of Barquq (Map pp88-9;h6am-9pm), Among other churches and monasteries here,
ums collection, consider picking up a pic- off Bein-al Qasreen. St Sergius (Map pp88-9; admission free; h8am-4pm) ap-
Post torial museum guide, such as Masterpieces Walk east from Al-Hussein, which is the parently marks a resting place of the Holy
Main post office (%391 2615; Midan Ataba, Down- of the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, from the name of both the midan and the mosque at the Family during the flight from King Herod. The
EGYPT
EGYPT
town; h8am-6pm Sat-Thu, to noon Fri & public holidays) bookshop outside, select a dozen pieces that mouth of the bazaar, along Sharia al-Azhar, easiest way to reach here is by Metro (50pt),
interest and make a beeline for those. The bear right at the top of the hill, and walk under alighting at Mar Girgis station.
Telephone museum is even more rewarding once youve the overpass to reach the Northern Cemetery
In central Cairo, there are telephone cent- seen the temples and tombs where the ar- (Map pp889). Commonly known as the City The Pyramids & Sphinx at Giza
rales located on Midan Tahrir and on Sharia tefacts were found. This is particularly the of the Dead, it is home to a sorry city of the Built on a desert plateau encroached upon by
Mohammed Mahmoud, Bab al-Luq, Sharia case with the most famous exhibits of the living, too. the modern city of Cairo, the pyramids here
Adly. Theres also one on Sharia 26th of July museum, the magnificent golden treasures South of Khan al-Khalili, a busy market are the last remaining wonder of the ancient
in Zamalek (Map pp889). All have card of Tutankhamens Tomb. street runs past other exquisite madrassa com- world. They were built as the mausoleums
phones. Guides cost E50 per hour and congregate plexes to the twin minarets of Bab Zuweila (Map of Pharaohs to help their souls on the path
outside the ticket booth. Access to the Royal pp889), the only surviving gate in the citys to heaven. Representing more a celebration
Tourist Information Mummy Room costs an extra E80/40, pay- southern wall. Continuing south from Bab of life (and a desire for life to continue) than
Main tourist office (Map pp92-3; %391 3454; 5 able outside the rooms 1st-floor entrance. Zuweila, enter the Street of the Tentmakers (Map a preoccupation with death, they were con-
Sharia Adly, Downtown; h8.30am-7pm) Staff are notori- You may find the spectacle of the unwrapped, pp889), a covered bazaar specialising in ap- structed by thousands of artisans (not slaves as
ously unhelpful. exposed and belittled bodies, viewed in glass pliqu work. Turn right to reach the celebrated previously imagined) mindful of their part in
cases at close quarters, a rather intrusive ex- Museum of Islamic Art (Map pp889; currently the creation of something extraordinary.
Travel Agencies perience its certainly one that would have closed), or turn left for the Citadel (a long walk Completed around 2600 BC, the Great Pyra-
The area around Midan Tahrir is teeming with appalled the kings who thought they could uphill that will take at least 40 to 50 minutes mid of Khufu (Cheops) is the oldest pyramid
travel agents. Panorama Tours (%359 0200; www count on some dignity in perpetuity. and will feel longer in summer). at Giza, and the largest (146.5m high). Al-
.eptours.com) is a reputable agency for air ticket Commenced by Saladin (Salah ad-Din) in though there isnt much to see inside, climb-
reservations by phone, with English-speaking Islamic Cairo the 12th century, the Citadel (%512 1735; Midan ing the steep, narrow passage to the heart of
staff. They will mail tickets to your hotel. Islamic Cairo is the medieval heart of the capi- al-Qalaa; adult/student E50/25; h8am-5pm) houses an the pyramid is an unforgettable, if intensely
tal. For a comprehensive walking tour of its assortment of mosques and indifferent mili- claustrophobic, experience. The neighbour-
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES splendid sights, begin at Cairos most historic tary museums. A visit is worthwhile, however, ing Pyramid of Khafre (Chephren) was built by
The biggest source of irritation in Cairo is the institution, Al-Azhar Mosque (Map pp88-9; admission for the panoramic city view. Khufus son. In deference to his father, he
bogus guide who uses remarkable ingenu- free; h24hr). One of Cairos earliest mosques, Dont miss the Gayer-Anderson Museum (Map built a slightly smaller pyramid but located
ity to steer you into no-hassle, government Al-Azhar is also the worlds oldest surviving pp88-9; Sharia ibn Tulun; adult/student E30/15; h8am- it on higher ground, giving the impression of
emporiums. Scams include telling you they university. The campus recently moved to 4pm), two 16th-century houses furnished by greater size. Part of the original smooth lime-
are off-duty guides from your hotel wanting Nasser City but the university grounds still a British major between 1935 and 1942. Its stone cladding, which once covered the entire
to improve their English; insisting the mu- function as an Islamic resource centre. labyrinthine rooms and passages include a structure, still remains. At a height of 62m, the
seum is shut for a conference but they know Opposite Al-Azhar Mosque is the great ba- secret room for women to observe the enter- Pyramid of Menkaure (Mycerinus) is the smallest
a good place thats open; and offering cheap zaar Khan al-Khalili (Map pp889) and midan tainments in the grand hall, and an eclectic of the three pyramids; it was built by Khafres
taxi services to places they have no permit (city square). Before you dip into its myriad set of antiques from around the world. Its son, Menkaure, from blocks of granite floated
to go. In some places, it can be difficult to alleyways, however, walk north up Sharia just next to the imposing Mosque of ibn Tulun along the Nile from Aswan.
walk more than a few metres without being al-Gamaliyya, a once-important medieval (Beit al-Kritliyya; Map pp88-9; %364 7822; www.gawp Known in Arabic as Abu al-Hol (Father of
accosted aggressively for such services. The thoroughfare and home to fine clusters of .org; Sharia ibn Tulun; admission E6; h8am-6pm), 800m Terror) and guarding the Pyramid of Khafre,
best advice is to plan where to go and how to Mamluk-era mosques, madrassas (traditional southwest of the Citadel. the Sphinx is carved from a single piece of
get there before leaving the hotel. Muslim school) and caravanserais. Visit Returning to the bazaar, shelter from the wind-eroded limestone. It has the face of a
Women travelling alone are vulnerable to Wikala al-Bazara (Map pp88-9; Sharia al-Tombakshiyya; mayhem in one of Khan el-Khalilis many man perhaps that of Khafre and the body
unwanted attention in Cairo. Most hassle, adult/student E10/5; h10am-5pm), a beautifully restaurants with their Moorish-style interiors of a lion. It was buried by sand several times
however, tends to be verbal and can be avoided restored caravanserai and head for the old or pay a visit to Fishawis, the bazaars most since it was built in 2500 BC, and Napoleons
to some extent by dressing conservatively. northern wall. The square-towered Bab an- famous coffeehouse (see p96 for details). army shot off its nose (now in the British
92 CAIRO Central Cairo lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Central Cairo 93
CENTRAL CAIRO 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
To Zamalek
A B C D
(1.8km) E F G H
Clot Bey (K
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INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING ky
4U Internet Caf......................(see 25) Egyptian Museum......................19 B3 Abu Tarek..................................28 C3
Orabi
American University in Cairo Felucca Mooring Point...............20 A6 Akher Sa'a..................................29 F1
hulud)
1 Bookshop.................................1 C5 El-Abd........................................30 E2 Ta
wf
iqi 29 Downtown 1
Amex...........................................2 C4 SLEEPING Felfela Takeaway.......................
Nasser 31 C4 yy Midan
Radio & TV Banque Misr Exchange Office......3 A4 Arabesque Hotel........................21 C3 32 F2
Gad............................................ aS Orabi Alfy
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Hany Internet Cafe.......................4 E2 Berlin Hotel.................................22 E3 Greek Club................................ 33July D4 27 Midan
Internet Egypt..............................5 B4 Hotel Luna.................................23 D3 Sabaya.....................................(see 26) 13 Khazindar
Saray al-Ezbekiyya
Lehnert & Landrock......................6 B4 King Tut Hostel...........................24 E2
Lehnert & Landrock......................7 E2 Lialy Hostel................................25 D3 DRINKING
Al-Gomhuriyya
Main Post Office..........................8 H3 Semiramis Intercontinental.........26 A6 Beano's......................................34 C5 32
26th of July
Corn
Mohammed Farid
44 24
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Telephone Centrale.....................13 F1
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Telephone Centrale................... 14 D5 de
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2 ENTERTAINMENT
Nile River
39 Nil Rushdie
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38 Nile Hilton EgyptAir.....................................42 F2
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5 Shopping 15
Local Buses & Minibuses.............43 B3
Mall
Arif Maspero River Bus Terminal.......44 A2
Abdel Salam Pyramids Bus..............................45 B3
Arab Midan
League 11 Falaki Pyramids Bus Flagging Point....46 B5
Building 46 Tahrir
To Gezira (500m); Sadat
(Midan Midan Has
Doqqi (1.6km); 12 Al-Bu san
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Mosque To the Museum
Mohammed Farid
1 Moh Midan of Islamic Art (50m)
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American oud
10 University in Cairo Abdeen
20 26
(Arabic Language Institute) Palace
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Midan Simon Moha
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Entrance to
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6 Sheik Museum
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Mus
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Latin
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Noga Tours (%205 7908, 012 313 8446; www.first24 Top End
THE PYRAMIDS: IN & OUT OF FAVOUR hours.com) With excellent English-speaking guides, Egyp- Semiramis Intercontinental (Map pp92-3;
The pyramids of Giza are so iconic as to defy description. They have been puzzled over and plun- tologists and drivers, this company offers full-day trips to %795 7171; www.intercontintal.com; Corniche el-Nil,
dered, visited and studied for 4000 years and yet their attraction continues unabated. Not that all Giza, Memphis and Saqqara for US$22.50 plus entry fees. Downtown; r from US$170; nais) Built on
spectators have been equally admiring of them. Just compare, wrote Frontinus, superintendent the banks of the Nile, this newly rebuilt, top-
of Roman aqueducts, this vital aqueduct network [with] those useless pyramids. SLEEPING class hotel has a long history in Cairo and de-
If the Romans were bemused by the apparent redundancy of the pyramids, 16th-century Budget serves its reputation. Try a club-floor room for
Islamic caliphs understood their spiritual powerand tried to tear them down. Napoleon two Inexpensive accommodation is concentrated US$200, which includes fantastic Nile views;
centuries later understood their political powerand used them for target practice. The re- in Downtown, on the higher floors of office complimentary breakfast, light supper (6pm
nowned 19th-century traveller, Clarke, understood their aesthetic power, declaring that no-one buildings on and around Sharia Talaat Harb. to 9pm) and drinks are offered in a private
ever approached them under other emotions than those of terrorand then raced his friend All tend to be hot in summer. penthouse lounge as part of the room rate.
to the top of Cheops. Lialy Hostel (Map pp92-3; %575 2802; www.lialy
The changing and dynamic relationship of spectator and pyramid over the centuries the hostel.com; 3rd fl, 8 Midan Talaat Harb, Downtown; dm/s/d EATING
E25/50/60, s/d with air-con E70/80; a) One of the Most restaurants are centred around Midan
EGYPT
theories about why and wherefore, the speculations of divine intervention and apocalyptic fore-
EGYPT
boding ensure that the pyramids fulfil their function of keeping alive the names of a father friendliest hostels in the city. Talaat Harb but for more interesting venues,
(Khufu), his son (Kahfre) and grandson (Menkaure). This is the real wonder of these remarkable King Tut Hostel (Map pp92-3; %391 7897; king try the Zamalek neighbourhood. Cairenes are
mausoleums. [email protected]; 8th fl, 37 Sharia Talaat Harb, Down- very discerning when it comes to food, so opt
town; s/d E40/60, with air-con & TV E45/80; ai) This for the busy venues if you want to avoid Phar-
hostel has clean bathrooms and an attractive aohs Revenge. Women on their own should
Museum) in the 19th century. Despite these performances in a variety of languages take Oriental-style lounge. feel reasonably comfortable in Cairo eating
mishaps, it remains one of the most evocative place nightly below the sphinx. Check the Hotel Luna (Map pp92-3; %396 1020; www.hotel and drinking venues, except in traditional
monuments of the ancient world. website for the schedule. lunacairo.com; 5th fl, 27 Sharia Talaat Harb, Downtown; s/d ahwas (coffeehouses).
The necropolis of Giza, which includes val- Bus 355/357, marked CTA, runs from Heli- E80/100, with shared bathroom E60/80; ai) One of
ley temples, causeways and satellite pyramids, opolis to the Pyramids via Midan Tahrir every the best budget hotels in Egypt, the Luna has Budget
is open from 7am to 7.30pm daily. Theres a 20 minutes. It costs E2 and takes 45 minutes. large, clean rooms with spotless bathrooms. Felfela takeaway (Map pp92-3; Sharia Talaat Harb, Down-
general admission fee of E60/30 per adult/ For the return journey, buses and minibuses Berlin Hotel (%395 7502; berlinhotelcairo@hotmail town; meals E1-3;h8am-midnight) This place sells
student, and extra charges to enter each of the pick up from the junction of Pyramids Rd and .com; 4th fl, 2 Sharia Shawarby, Downtown; s/d E77/97; excellent fuul and taamiyya sandwiches.
three pyramids. Entry to the Great Pyramid the desert road to Alexandria, about 100m east ai) The helpful management and private El-Abd (Map pp92-3; Sharia 26th of July; Downtown;
costs E150/75 per adult/student, payable in of the Oberoi Mena House Hotel. showers make this small establishment, just off h8am-midnight) Try the phenomenally popular
Egyptian pounds. Only 300 tickets are sold It costs about E20 one way for a taxi if Sharia Qasr el-Nil, worth the extra pounds. El-Abd for the best Oriental pastries in town
per day. These go on sale at 8am and 1pm you bargain hard. (takeaway only).
at the ticket box in front of the pyramid and Midrange Akher Saa (Map pp92-3; 8 Sharia Alfy, Downtown; meals
the queue forms early. Entry to the other ACTIVITIES Windsor Hotel (Map pp92-3; %591 5277; www.windsor E3-4; h24hr) This is a frantically busy fuul and
two pyramids costs, respectively, E30/15 A lovely way to enjoy sunset is to take a ride cairo.com; 19 Sharia Alfy, Downtown; s/d US$37/46; ai) taamiyya takeaway with a no-frills cafeteria
and E25/15 per adult/student, and tickets on a felucca (traditional Nile sailing vessel), Formerly the British Officers Club, the co- next door.
are obtained from the booth in front of each which comes complete with captain and first lonial lounge-bar is a highlight of this ageing Gad (Map pp92-3; %576 3583; 13 Sharia 26th of
pyramid. Useful background information is mate. It costs about E30 per hour per person, but characterful establishment. The rooms are July, Downtown; meals E3-4; h7am-1am; a) This
available at www.guardians.net/hawass, an but bargain hard and expect to pay baksheesh. similarly grand but chafed around the edges. Western-style fast-food outlet offers freshly
official antiquities website. The captains wait by the mooring point (Map Hotel Longchamps (Map pp88-9; %735 2311; www cooked, good-value fare, popular with young
Horses, donkeys or camels are available pp923) by the Semiramis Intercontinental on .hotellongchamps.com; 21 Sharia Ismail Mohammed, Zamalek; Cairenes.
for rides near the pyramids. Rates range from the corniche, or at the Dok Dok landing stage s/d from US$42/56; na) This is probably the Abu Tarek (Map pp92-3; 40 Sharia Champollion, Down-
E10 per hour for a donkey to E30 for a (Map pp889), just short of the bridge to Le best midrange option in Cairo thanks to the town; small/large E3/4; h24hr) The place to try
carriage. Aggressive attempts for your cus- Meridien Hotel. enthusiastic owner. kushari (mixture of noodles, rice and lentils).
tom can spoil the moment and baksheesh is Arabesque Hotel (Map pp92-3; %579 9679; ara
expected for any animal photos, whether you COURSES [email protected]; 11 Sharia Ramses, Downtown; s/d Midrange & Top End
want a camel in your composition or not. A 32-hour Arabic course is offered at the In- with air-con E100/150, without bathroom E60/80; a) A Greek Club (Map pp92-3; %577 4999; 3 Sharia Qasr el-
Beside the Great Pyramid are five pits that ternational Language Institute (ILI;%02-346 3087; comfortable, clean choice, the lounge here has Nil, Downtown; mains E9-16; h7am-2am) Theres no
once contained the Pharaohs funerary barques. www.arabicegypt.com; 4 Sharia Mahmoud Azmy, Sahafayeen, great views over the Nile. Avoid rooms facing menu at this Cairene institution with its neo-
One of these wooden vessels was unearthed in Cairo). the motorway. classical interior just a well-informed waiter
1954 and forms the centrepiece of the Solar President Hotel (Map pp88-9; % 735 0718; and delicious Levantine fare.
Barque Museum (adult/student E35/20; h9am-4pm). TOURS [email protected]; 22 Sharia Taha Hussein, Zamalek; Abou Shakra (Map pp88-9; %531 6111; 69 Sharia Qasr
The nightly sound-and-light show (%386 3469; Tours are easily arranged from any hotel. s/d US$70/55; ai) The rooms in this efficient al-Aini, Garden City; mains E15-40; h9am-2am) Open
www.sound-light.egypt.com; adult/child E60/30; h6.30pm, Fathy el-Menesy (%259 3218, 012 278 1572; full-day hotel are comfortable and attractive, and the since 1947, Abou Shakra serves the citys
7.30pm & 8.30pm) provides a magical introduction Cairo excursion E250) Privately owned taxi service with in-house patisserie, Le Bec Sucr, is one of the best kofta (mincemeat and spices grilled on
to the pyramids, despite the crowds. Three English-speaking driver. best in the city. a skewer).
96 CAIRO Drinking lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CAIRO Getting Around 97
LAubergine (Map pp88-9; %738 0080; 5 Sharia Sayed Haroun El-Rashid Nightclub (Map pp92-3; %795 7171, A black-and-white taxi to central Cairo in Luxor at 5.05am the next morning, and
al-Bakry, Zamalek; mains E16-30; hnoon-2am; a) This ext 8011; Corniche el-Nil, Downtown; h11pm-3.30am Tue- costs around E45 to E60. To the airport it Aswan at 8.15am. To Luxor costs US$53/74
atmospheric bistros menu includes tasty veg- Sun) at the Semiramis Intercontinental and costs E30 to E35. per person one way in a double/single cabin.
etarian dishes. The upstairs bar often features the Cairo Sheratons Casablanca Club (Alhambra; Tickets must be paid for in US dollars or euros
a DJ. Map pp88-9; %336 9700; Midan al-Galaa, Doqqi; h7pm- Bus (cash only). The price includes dinner and
Abou El Sid (Map pp88-9; %735 9640; 157 Sharia 26th 4am Tue-Sun). Performances generally begin late Cairos main bus station is Turgoman Garage breakfast and the experience is enjoyably old-
of July, Zamalek; mains E20-50; hnoon-2am; a) With (around 1am). (Sharia al-Gisr, Bulaq), 1km northwest of the inter- fashioned.
brass lamps and plump cushions, Abou El For live music gigs try the Cairo Jazz Club section of Sharias Galaa and 26th of July. A Aside from the sleeping train, foreigners
Sids Oriental flight of fancy is a fitting place (Map pp88-9; %345 9939; 197 Sharia 26th of July, Agouza) taxi to the bus station costs E5 from Down- can only travel to Luxor and Aswan on train
to try traditional Egyptian food. or After Eight (Map pp92-3; %574 0855; 6 Sharia Qasr town. Buses depart from here to all parts of 980, departing Cairo daily at 7am; train 996,
The citys best restaurants are found in five- el-Nil, Downtown; minimum charge Fri-Wed E60, Thu E90; the country. departing at 10pm; and train 1902, departing
star hotels. Sabaya (Map pp92-3; %795 7171; Corniche hnoon-2am). Performances by international at 12.30am. First- and 2nd-class fares to Luxor
el-Nil, Downtown; mains E40-60; a) is a world-class classical and jazz musicians are regularly Destination Price (E) Duration Frequency (10 hours) and Aswan (13 hours) are E67/45
Lebanese restaurant in the Semiramis Inter- hosted at the Cairo Opera House (Map pp88-9; and E81/47 respectively.
EGYPT
EGYPT
continental. %739 8132/44; www.operahouse.gov.eg; Gezira Exhibition Alexandria 16 2hr hourly You must buy tickets at least a couple of
Grounds). Aswan 85 13hr 1 daily days in advance.
DRINKING Bahariyya 20 5hr 2 daily
Two caf chains, Cilantro and Beanos, have SHOPPING Dahab 75 9hr 4 daily GETTING AROUND
branches across Cairo and serve Italian-style Brass plates, boxes inlaid with mother-of- Dakhla 50 11hr 4 daily Bus & Minibus
coffee. pearl, leather slippers, and items made of Farafra 40 8hr 2 daily Cairos main local bus and minibus stations,
Simonds (Map pp88-9; %735 9436; 112 Sharia 26th granite, turquoise and tigers-eye (priced by Hurghada 60 6hr 9 daily serving all parts of the city, are at Midan Abdel
of July, Zamalek) At this famous place the barista the gram) are just some of the many crafts Kharga 50 10hr 2 daily Moniem Riad (Map pp923).
has been frothing cappuccino (E5) for over you will find in the labyrinthine passages Luxor 85 11hr 1 daily
half a century, and the croissants (E2.50) are of Khan al-Khalili (p90). Hand-knotted silk Port Said 16 3hr hourly Metro
simply Parisienne. carpets are made in the area between Giza St Katherines 37 7hr 1 daily The Metro system is startlingly efficient, and
Fishawis (Map pp88-9; Khan al-Khalili; tea E3, sheesha and Saqqara and most carpet schools have a Monastery the stations are surprisingly clean. A short-
E4.50; h24hr) A traditional ahwa, this ranks showroom on site. Giza is the area for hand- Sharm 68 7hr 11 daily hop ticket (up to nine stations) costs 50pt. The
as Cairos elder statesman and a must on any painted papyrus scrolls and shops selling el-Sheikh first carriage is reserved for women only.
Cairo itinerary. Its a few steps off Midan Egyptian cotton goods.
Hussein. Many shops in Giza and Cairo can arrange There are two other bus stations: Al-Mazar, River Bus
The best Downtown bars are Estoril (Map for gold or silver cartouches bearing your near the airport, for international services, On the corniche in front of the Radio & TV
pp92-3; %574 3102; 12 Sharia Talaat Harb; a), the name in hieroglyphic characters. and Abbassiyya (Sinai) Bus Terminal (Map pp88-9; Sharia Building youll find the Maspero river bus
Cap dOr (Map pp92-3; Sharia Abdel Khalek Sarwat), and For a thankfully hassle-free shopping ex- Ramses, Abbassiyya), where Sinai services arrive terminal (Map pp923). From here boats de-
High Heels (Map pp92-3; %578 0444; Nile Hilton, Cor- perience, good-quality items and friendly (confusingly, these leave from Turgoman). part every 15 minutes between 7am and 10pm
niche el-Nil). management, try Souvenirs Museum (Map pp92-3; For details of international bus services for Doqqi, Manial, Giza and Misr al-Qadima
In Zamalek, expats prop up the bar at the %578 0444 ext 661; Nile Hilton, Corniche el-Nil, Downtown), from Cairo, see p124. (Old Cairo). The trip takes 50 minutes and
stylish La Bodega (%736 6761; 157 Sharia 26th of July; 30m from the Egyptian Museum. the fare is 50pt.
hnoon-2am). For something less sedate, try Service Taxi
the rowdy Deals (Map pp92-3; %736 0502; 2 Sharia GETTING THERE & AWAY Most service taxis depart from stands around Taxi
Sayed al-Bakry; h6pm-2am), off Sharia 26th of July, Air Ramses train station and Midan Ulali. Serv- The easiest way of getting around is by taxi.
or Rive Gauche (Map pp88-9; %012 210 0129; Sharia EgyptAir (Map pp92-3; %392 7649; 6 Sharia Adly, Down- ices include Alexandria (E12, three hours), The following table is a rough guide to taxi
Maahad el-Swissry). town) has a number of offices around town. Ismailia (E8, 1 hours), Port Said (E14, two fares from Downtown Cairo but expect to
Cairo International Airport (%Terminal 1 265 5000, hours) and Suez (E7.50, one hour). bargain hard.
ENTERTAINMENT Terminal 2 265 2222) is 20km northeast of Cairo.
For full entertainment listings, pick up a copy Terminal 1 services EgyptAirs international Train Destination Fare (E)
of the weekly Cairo Times (E10). and domestic flights and Terminal 2 all inter- Characterful and colonial, Ramses train station
Al-Tannoura Egyptian Heritage Dance Troupe (Map national airlines except Saudi Arabian Air- (Mahatta Ramses; Map pp88-9; %575 3555; Midan Ramses, Abbassiyya (Sinai) Bus Terminal 15
pp88-9; %512 1735; admission free; hperformances 7pm lines. Youll find ATMs and exchange booths Downtown) is Cairos main terminus. It has a left- Airport 30-35
Mon, Wed & Sat) There are regular displays of mes- in the arrivals halls. luggage office charging E2.50 per piece per Citadel 5
merising Sufi dancing by this troupe at the Bus 356 is air-conditioned, and runs at day and a tourist information office (h9am-7pm). Heliopolis 10-15
El-Gawhara Theatre in the Citadel. A queue 20-minute intervals from 7am to midnight The train is particularly recommended for Khan al-Khalili 5
forms at the exit gate of the Citadel at least between both terminals and Midan Abdel the journey to Luxor, which, with its Nile Midan Ramses 3
one hour before the performance. Moniem Riad (Map pp923), behind the views, is something of a classic. Pyramids 20
The best belly dancers perform at Cairos Egyptian Museum in central Cairo (E2, plus The Abela Egypt Sleeping Train (%574 9274; Turgoman Garage 5
five-star hotels. Current favourites include E1 per large luggage item, one hour). www.sleepingtrains.com) leaves at 8pm, arriving Zamalek 5
98 AROUND CAIRO Memphis, Saqqara & Dahshur lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SINAI St Katherines Monastery 99
EGYPT
Nearby are the Mastaba of Ti and the Pyramid open 24 hours. Theres a post and telephone .com/habiba; s/d US$22.50/55; a) is an attractive and all-inclusive camel safaris here from E150
of Teti. office, and some shops in town. You can well-run beachside hotel in Nuweiba City. per day. Mt Sinai is an easy and worthwhile
Ten kilometres south of Saqqara is Dahshur change money at the 24-hour Banque Misr Serving tasty mezze (E5 to E20), Dr Sheesh climb, offering spectacular views of the arid
(adult/student E20/10; h8am-4pm), a 3.5km-long booth in the arrivals hall, and theres an ATM Kebab (%350 0273; h7am-11pm) and Cleopatra Sinai landscape. The crowds, however, can be
field of pyramids, including the Bent Pyramid nearby. The Taba Hilton can change travellers Restaurant (%350 0503; h8am-midnight) are both overwhelming.
(unfortunately closed) and the mystical Red cheques. recommended. In the village of Al-Milga, about 3.5km
Pyramid. There are ferry services to Cairo (E60, from the monastery, theres a post office, tele-
The best way to visit Memphis, Saqqara NUWEIBA nine hours, three daily), Sharm el-Sheikh phone centrale, bank, shops and cafs. The
and Dahshur is by taxi (E140). Stipulate the %069 (E21, 2 hours), Dahab (E11, one hour), Banque Misr (h10am-1pm & 5-8pm Sat-Thu) changes
sights you want to see, the length of the trip Once an important point on the caravan route Taba (E11, one hour) and St Katherines cash and gives Visa and MasterCard advances.
(five hours is about right) and bargain hard. to Mecca, and protected by the 16th-century (E21, three hours). Theres no ATM and no internet caf.
Otherwise, organise a tour (p94). Sultan El-Ghuri fortress, Nuweiba is still a For information about ferries to Aqaba in The friendly El-Malga Bedouin Camp (%347
busy port. The surrounding coast is now a Jordan, see p124. 0042; [email protected]; tent per person E10, dm
has gained a sense of grateful solidarity with Sleeping offers international dishes, such as satay with Sinai Divers (%360 0697; www.sinaidivers.com)
its visitors that is particularly appealing after Seven Heaven (%364 0080; www.7heavenhotel.com; peanut sauce and brownies with ice-cream. Subex (%360 0122; www.subex.org)
the impersonal experience of neighbouring Masbat; huts E10, r E60; ai) A bustling camp on Furry Cup (Blue Beach Club, Mashraba; hnoon-2am)
resorts. It remains an unpretentious place to the corniche, set back from the beach, Seven Divers decompress every evening at happy If all that rubber doesnt appeal, many outlets
dive and its windswept beaches are ideal for Heaven is popular with backpackers. Breakfast hour (6pm to 8pm) at Furry Cup (Stella E6, in town offer hour-long glass-bottom boat
windsurfing. costs E10 extra. spirits E15). It serves bangers and mash. trips (E80).
There are two parts to Dahab: Dahab City Inmo Divers Home (%364 0370; www.inmodivers Other popular venues include Tota and
has five-star hotels and the bus station; As- .de; Mashraba; s/d US$37/46; as) Book ahead for Crazy House (Stella E10 at both), on the Sleeping
salah, once a Bedouin village, is about 2.5km this excellent midrange hotel, popular with Masbat corniche. Sharks Bay Umbi Diving & Camp (%360 0942; www
north and is divided into two sections, Masbat divers. .sharksbay.com; s/d huts without bathroom US$15/19, cabins
and Mashraba. Hilton Dahab Resort (%364 0310; www.hilton Entertainment with air-con US$25/37; ai) With clean clifftop
.com/worldwideresorts; Dahab City; s/d/ste from US$65/90/97; Full moon parties (%012 370 7774; admission E100; huts and beachside cabins, this is the only
Information nais) This tranquil resort has impres- h6pm-6am) Gold Soul Productions organises laid-back camp in the area.
Internet access is available at Download.Net sive leisure facilities including a sandy beach these parties at a canyon outside town. They Youth Hostel (%/fax 366 0317; City Council St, Hadaba;
EGYPT
EGYPT
(per hr E5; h24hr), next to the Nesima Resort, ideal for windsurfing ($41 for two hours). feature overseas DJs and live music. The price per person member/nonmember E25/56; a) This youth
and Felopater Internet (per hr E5; h10am-midnight), Blue Beach Club (%364 0411; www.bluebeachclub covers music and transfer from town. hostel is just about the cheapest place to stay
both in Mashraba. .com; Mashraba; s/d E240/300; as) With attractive in town.
The National Bank of Egypt (h9am-10pm), on rooms, Blue Beach features include Arabic Getting There & Around Pigeons House (%360 0996; [email protected];
the corniche in Masbat, has an ATM and classes and Dahabs most popular bar, the The bus station (h7.30am-11pm) is located in Sharm-Naama Bay Rd, Naama Bay; s/d E120/170, without
changes cash and travellers cheques. The Furry Cup. Dahab City. There are services to Sharm el- bathroom E75/95; ai) One of few budget ho-
post office and telephone centrale (h24hr) are Sheikh (E16, one hour, 10 daily), Nuweiba tels in Naama Bay, rooms at Pigeons House
in Dahab City. Eating & Drinking (E11, one hour, four daily), Taba (E22, 2 feature nylon sheets, utilitarian dcor and
Lakhbatita (%364 1306; Mashraba; mains E15-60) Da- hours), St Katherines Monastery (E16, 1 hard beds.
Activities habs best restaurant features mashrabiyya hours), Cairo (E62 to E75, 10 hours, four Camel Hotel (%360 0700; www.cameldive.com; King
Many dive clubs offer camel/dive safaris. The (wooden lattice screens), red cushions, shelves daily), Hurghada (E90, 2 hours) and Luxor of Bahrain St, Naama Bay; s/d from US$103/126; ais)
following are recommended: of home-bottled preserves, and a combination (E110, 7 to eight hours). This small four-star hotel located in the mall
Fantasea Dive Centre (%364 0483; www.fantasea of Asian and Arabic cuisine with salad and A service taxi between Assalah and Dahab at Naama Bay is efficiently run. Breakfast is
diving.net; Masbat) antipasto thrown in for good measure. City costs E5. extra.
Inmo (%364 0370; www.inmodivers.de; Inmo Divers Carm Inn (% 364 1300; Masbat; dishes E25- Intercontinental Garden Resort (%360 0006; www
Home, Mashraba) 65;hnoon-midnight) Vegetarians are well catered SHARM EL-SHEIKH & NAAMA BAY .sharmelsheikh.intercontinental.com; Garden Reef Bay, Sharm
Nesima Dive Centre (%364 0320; www.nesima-resort for here with a menu designed for vitality, %069 el-Sheikh; s/d from US$120/140; nais) With
.com; Nesima Resort, Mashraba) building a strong body, muscular develop- Sharm el-Sheikh and neighbouring Naama wonderful snorkelling straight from its beach,
ment and fun. Bay cater more for package groups than inde- this stylish hotel offers a delightful retreat
In the morning, the Bedouin congregate along Jasmine Restaurant (%364 0852; Mashraba; mains pendent travellers. Built around two principal from the concrete metropolis of neighbour-
the waterfront offering camel trips to the in- E35; h7am-1am) Perched on the waters edge, bays, both famous for snorkelling and diving, ing Sharm.
terior. A three-day trip, including food, costs this restaurant is a hit with locals and travel- the area has plenty of facilities and entertain-
between E600 and E900. lers. With an eclectic menu, the restaurant ment, top-class hotels and shopping malls. Eating
Budget accommodation is available in Sharks Safsafa Restaurant (%366 0474; Sharm el-Sheikh; meals
Bay, around 12km northeast of Naama Bay. E10-45) Popular with locals, this is the most
CLIMBING MOUNT SINAI attractive restaurant in the Old Market. Saf-
There are two routes to the top of Mt Sinai, both of which meet at a plateau known as Elijahs Information safa serves fresh seafood from the Red Sea
Basin, 300m below the summit. The many internet outlets include Sharm Phone and the seafood pasta dishes are particularly
One trail takes about two hours to ascend and can be negotiated by camel, hired from near Net Caf (%366 4725; per hr E7; h24hr), in the mall tasty (E30).
St Katherines Monastery from E50. opposite Sharms Old Market. There are nu- Tam Tam Oriental Caf (%360 0150; Naama Bay;
The other trail comprises the 3750 Steps of Repentance, laid by a monk as a form of penance. merous ATMs in Naama Bay and most major mezze E12, sandwiches E8-14, mains E29-66) Located
The steps 3000 to Elijahs Basin are ferociously steep and uneven. banks have branches in Sharm. The post office on the beach strip near the main mall, the
From Elijahs Basin, there are a further 750 steps to reach the 2285m summit. The extra half- (h8am-3pm Sat-Thu) is on the hill in Sharm and popular Tam Tam features a range of Egyp-
hour effort is worthwhile as the views are spectacular, particularly in the blood-red of late after- theres a telephone centrale (h24hr) nearby. tian fare.
noon. Most people, however, prefer to make the climb at night to enjoy sunrise, returning by Sinai Star (%366 0323; Sharm el-Sheikh; set meals
9am to visit the monastery a good option in summer when daytime temperatures can make Activities around E20) In the Old Market, this serves the
for a gruelling hike. Diving is the areas star attraction. The follow- best seafood in Sharm.
In winter, when its bitterly cold and windy, bring food and water, warm clothes and a sleeping ing clubs in Naama Bay are recommended: Tandoori Indian Restaurant (%360 0700; King of
bag for resting at Elijahs Basin. Huts along the route provide hikers with blankets (E5) and hot tea. Oonas Dive Centre (%360 0581; www.oonasdivers.com) Bahrain St, Naama Bay; mains E24-110, set menus E145-
They also sell Bedouin beadwork purses (E20 to E50) that make a fun souvenir of the hike. Red Sea Diving College (%360 0145; www.redsea 185; h6.30-11.30pm) Part of Camel Hotel, this
college.com) is Sharms best Indian restaurant.
102 S U E Z C A N A L P o r t S a i d Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com R E D S E A C OA S T H u r g h a d a 103
resort strip.
EGYPT
Getting There & Around PORT SAID Theres a popular terrace ahwa in front
Sharm el-Sheikh International Airport (%360 1140) %066 / pop 539,000 of Grand Albatross Building on the New Sights & Activities
is about 10km north of Naama Bay. EgyptAir With its wooden buildings and Escher-like Corniche where locals linger over sheeshas Recommended dive centres include Dive Too
(%366 1056; Sharm el-Sheikh; h9am-9pm) has four labyrinth of condemned balconies Port Said (water pipes). (%340 8414; www.divetoo.net; Seagull Resort, Sharia
daily flights from Sharm to Cairo (E733, is a ramshackle town that nonetheless retains Sheraton, Sigala) and Easy Divers (%354 7816; www
one hour) and two flights per week to Luxor a colonial charm. An obligatory stop for cruise Getting There & Away .easydivers-redsea.com; Triton Empire Beach Hotel, Corniche,
(E530, 50 minutes). Microbuses charge E2 liners using the canal, Port Said is accustomed Uncomfortable trains (E18 in 2nd class, Ad-Dahar).
between the airport and Naama Bay or Sharm to visitors. Chances are youll be waved into five hours) run to Cairo four times a day. Popular tours go to the isolated Coptic mon-
el-Sheikh; taxis charge E20/40. Woolworths near the ferry terminal a quaint Its better to take the bus (E13.50 to E17, asteries of St Anthony and St Paul (h9am-5pm). A
A luxury high-speed ferry operated by In- 19th-century building of more interest than three hours, hourly). Other services include taxi from Hurghada costs US$58.
ternational Fast Ferries Co (www.internationalfastferries its wares. Alexandria (E20 to E22, four hours, four
.com; one way adult E250 or US$40) runs between Banque du Caire and National Bank of daily), Luxor (E60, 12 to 13 hours) and Sleeping
Sharm el-Sheikh and Hurghada (1 hr) four Egypt have ATMs and you can change travel- Hurghada (E45, 7 hours). Taxi fares from Royal City Hotel (%344 7729; fax 344 7195; Sigala; s/d
times a week. Tickets can be bought from lers cheques at Thomas Cook (%322 7559; h8am- the bus station into town (3km) cost E5. E80/120; a) Near the port, this old favourite
travel agencies or the port ferry office, two 4.30pm), next to the petrol station. On Sharia Taxi fares within town cost E2. Service taxis is clean and comfortable.
hours before departure. Taxis to Naama Bay Palestine youll find Amex (h9am-2pm & 6.30-8pm leave from the bus station and cost E15 to Zak Royal Wings Hotel (%344 6012; www.zakhotel
cost E25 from outside the port compound. Sun-Thu), the main post office (h8.30am-2.30pm), Cairo. .com; Sharia al-Hadaba, Sigala; s/d US$21/32; as) Good
Inside the compound, they cost double. telephone centrales (h24hr) and a helpful tourist value poolside rooms next to Papas Bar.
The bus station is between Naama Bay and
Sharm el-Sheikh. There are frequent services
office (%323 5289; h9am-6pm Sat-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri).
Internet access is available from Compu.Net
(per hr E3; h9am-midnight), opposite the main
RED SEA COAST Giftun Beach Resort (%346 3040; www.giftun
beachresort.com; resort strip; s/d all-inclusive US$52/81;
to Cairo (E68, six hours). Other services ais) With chalet-style rooms, diving
include Alexandria (E88, nine hours, two post office. Sadly, the once-idyllic Red Sea Coast is and windsurfing facilities (from E25 per
daily), Dahab (E11, one hour, six daily), Nu- being spoiled by unattractive construction hour), this is a recommended resort.
weiba (E21.50, 2 hours), Taba (E26.50, Sights & Activities projects, particularly around the soulless city Oberoi Sahl Hasheesh (%344 0777; www.oberoi
four hours), St Katherines Monastery (E28, The National Museum (%323 7419) is currently of Hurghada. The village of Al-Quseir has so hotels.com; Sahl Hasheesh, resort strip; ste from US$310;
3 hours) and Luxor (E95, 14 hours). closed but the Military Museum (%322 4657; Sharia far escaped mass development but not for nais) In Hurghadas most opulent
Microbuses travel regularly between Sharm 23rd of Jul; admission E5; h9am-4pm Fri-Wed, 9am-10pm long, we suspect. hotel, Moorish-style rooms have sunken
el-Sheikh and Naama Bay for E1. A taxi Thu) has some interesting relics from the 1956 For world-class diving in the area, con- marble baths, walled private courtyards and
costs E15. Suez crisis. tact Shagara Eco-Lodge (%in Cairo 02-337 1833; www panoramic sea views.
The easiest way to explore the mouth of the .redsea-divingsafari.com; Marsa Shagra; d with full board in
RAS MOHAMMED canal is to take the free public ferry from near tents/huts/chalets US$88/100/125). Eating & Drinking
Declared a national park (admission US$5) in 1988, the tourist office to Port Fuad and back. Taibeen (%354 7260; Sharia Soliman Mazhar, Ad-Dahar;
the headland of Ras Mohammed is 30km HURGHADA dishes E3-15) This competent trattoria uses only
west of Sharm el-Sheikh, at the southern Sleeping & Eating %065 fresh local ingredients.
tip of the peninsula. Home to some of the Youth Hostel (%322 8702; [email protected]; Catering for more than 96,000 tourists an- Rossi Restaurant (%344 7676; Sharia Sheraton,
worlds most spectacular coral reefs, the Sharia 23rd of Jul; dm HI members/nonmembers E13.25/15.25, nually and comprising environmentally Sigala; mains E17-50) Popular with the diving
park is teeming with most of the Red Seas f per person E30.25; ai) This enormous, disastrous resorts, theres little to commend fraternity, solo women may feel less con-
1000 species of fish. You can dive here; most friendly hostel, at the end of the New Cor- Hurghada. Even its once-glorious coral reefs spicuous here.
clubs in Naama Bay and Sharm offer trips. niche, has worn but clean dorms. have been degraded. The only compensation Portofino (%354 6250; Sharia Sayyed al-Qorayem,
You need a full Egyptian visa to visit Ras Hotel de la Poste (%/fax 322 4048; 42 Sharia al- for travellers is that it offers an alternative Ad-Dahar; a) Portofino offers recommended
Mohammed. Gomhuriyya; s/d E39/49; a) Faded but elegant, route to Sinai from the Nile Valley. three-course set menus from E26.50.
104 M E D I T E R R A N E A N C OA S T Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M E D I T E R R A N E A N C OA S T A l e x a n d r i a 105
Shanghai Chinese Restaurant (%012 239 6840; An Ottoman fortress (admission E5; h9am-5pm) across a seldom-visited area of rice paddies, Telephone centrale (Midan Gomhurriya; h24hr)
Esplanada Bay Mall, resort strip; mains E30-40; a) This and old coral-block buildings line the water- date plantations and cotton fields. Thomas Cook (%484 7830; 15 Sharia Saad Zaghloul;
stylish, seaside restaurant prepares delicious front, punctuated by the domed tombs of h8am-5pm) The best option for cashing travellers
fresh seafood (from E35). various saints pilgrims who died en route ALEXANDRIA cheques.
Papas Bar (www.papasbar.com; Rossi Restaurant, Sharia to Mecca. %03 / pop 3.8 million Zawia Computer Internet Caf (%484 8014; Sharia
Sheraton, Sigala) Patronised by diving instructors Diving trips and desert excursions can be Alexandria (Al-Iskendariyya), with its belle Dr Hassan Fadaly; per hr E4; h11am-11pm)
and foreign residents, Papas has a great enter- arranged with Mazenar Tours (%333 5247, 012 265 poque buildings and grand squares, good
tainment programme that rotates between 5044; [email protected]; Sharia Port Said). coffee and French pastries, has a faded charm Sights
Liquid Lounge and Papas II. For internet access, try Hot Line Internet Caf that few visitors can resist. Arranged around Relics retrieved from the seabed are displayed
Opposite Seagull Resort, El-Arabi Coffee (Sharia Port Said; per hr E10; h9am-3am). Theres also bays that are currently revealing all kinds of at the Alexandria National Museum (Sharia Tariq al-
Shop is a popular tea-and-sheesha spot. a 24-hour telephone centrale, a National Bank sunken treasure, Alexandria is an easy city to Horreyya; adult/student E30/15; h9am-4pm), just east
of Egypt branch (no ATM) and a post office. explore and is mercifully free from touts. of the city centre.
Getting There & Around The marble terraces of the only Roman Am-
The International Airport (%344 2592) is 6km Sleeping & Eating History phitheatre (Sharia Yousef; adult/student E15/10; h9am-
EGYPT
EGYPT
southwest of town. EgyptAir (%344 3592/3; re- The budget accomodation options in town Established in 332 BC by Alexander the Great, 5pm) in Egypt were discovered in 1964. Also
sort strip) has daily flights to Cairo (E740, one are not recommended. the city became a major trade centre and focal worth seeing is the Villa of the Birds mosaic
hour). A taxi to/from town costs between Al-Quseir Hotel (%333 2301; Sharia Port Said; s/d point of learning for the entire Mediterranean. (adult/student E10/5) in the grounds.
E10 and E20 (there are no buses). E112/157; a) This charming 1920s merchants Its ancient library held 500,000 volumes and Dating from the 2nd century AD, the
A luxury high-speed ferry operated by In- house on the seafront has rooms with clean the Pharos lighthouse was one of the Seven honeycomb Catacombs of Kom Ash-Suqqafa (Car-
ternational Fast Ferries Co (%344 7571; www.inter shared bathrooms. Wonders of the Ancient World. Alexandria mous; adult/student E20/10; h8am-5pm) once housed
nationalfastferries.com) departs for Sharm el-Sheikh Mvenpick Sirena Beach (%333 2100; www.moeven continued as the capital of Egypt under the 300 corpses and a rather macabre funereal
four times a week from the port in Sigala (one pick-quseir.com; r from US$200; ais) This domed Roman and Byzantine Empires until the 4th dining chamber used for wakes. The principal
way US$44, 1 hours). Tickets are payable ensemble, 7km north of town, is one of the century. The city thereafter went into decline tomb combines Egyptian, Greek and Roman
in US dollars. Red Seas best resorts. The chain is renowned until the 19th century, when Napoleon re- iconography.
Superjets bus station is near the main for its environmentally sensitive approach. vived Alexandria as a major port. Despite the The catacombs are a five-minute walk from
mosque in Ad-Dahar. It offers services to Try Restaurant Marianne (%333 4386; Sharia Port 1952 Revolution, in which the nationalistic the famed and misnamed Pompeys Pillar (adult/
Cairo (E55 to E57, six hours, three daily) Said; dishes E15-50) for good grilled fish. Locals mood of the moment expelled most foreign student E10/5; h8am-5pm), the top of which once
and Alexandria (E83, nine hours). At the lounge in Sahraya Coffeehouse (Sharia Port Said) on interests and stripped the city of its expatriate hosted a party of 22. Louis XIV of France nearly
southern end of Ad-Dahar other services leave the waterfront. contingency, something of the citys cosmo- took it home as a plinth for his own statue.
for Luxor (E30, five hours, four daily) and politan character remains. Recently restored, Fort Qaitbey (adult/student
Al-Quseir (E20, three hours, three daily). Getting There & Around E20/15; h9am-4pm), at the end of the corniche,
The El Gouna Bus Co bus station is on Sharia The bus and service-taxi stations are 1.5km Orientation was built on the foundations of the destroyed
Al-Nasr in Ad-Dahar, offering 10 daily serv- northwest of the Safaga road (E3 by taxi). Nearly 20km long from east to west and only Pharos lighthouse in 1480.
ices to Cairo (from E40). There are buses to Cairo (E57, 11 hours, about 3km wide, Alexandria is a true water- Inspired by the original library, founded
It is compulsory for foreigners to travel five daily) via Safaga (E5, two hours) and front city. The focal point is Midan Ramla, also in the early 3rd century BC and hailed as the
from Hurghada to Cairo and Luxor by convoy. Hurghada (E15, three hours). known as Mahattat Ramla (Ramla station), the greatest of all classical institutions, Bibliotheca
Check current timings with the tourist office. Service taxi destinations include Cairo terminus for the citys tramlines. Immediately Alexandrina (%483 9999; www.bibalex.org; Corniche al-
The service taxi station is near the tele- (E43, 10 hours), Hurghada (E10, 2 adjacent is Midan Saad Zaghloul, a large square Bahr; adult/student main library E10/5, antiquities museum
phone centrale in Ad-Dahar. Taxis go to Cairo hours) and Safaga (E6, two hours). As in running to the seafront. Most traveller ameni- E20/10, manuscript collection E20/10; h11am-7pm Sun,
(E35) and Al-Quseir (E15 to E20). It costs Hurghada, you have to hire the entire taxi for ties are centred around these two midans. Mon, Wed & Thu, 3-7pm Fri & Sat) is an attempt to put
about E200 per vehicle (up to seven passen- the trip to Luxor (from E250, eight hours). the city back on the worlds cultural map.
gers) to Luxor as part of the police convoy. Microbus fares around town are between Information Note the external frieze in letters, pictograms,
From Ad-Dahar to the resort strip costs 50pt and E1. There are many exchange bureaus between hieroglyphs and symbols from every known
E10 by minibus. Bargaining is essential. El Midan Ramla and the corniche and along alphabet.
Gouna Bus Co operates a half-hourly serv-
ice (E5) between Ad-Dahar and the end of MEDITERRANEAN Sharia Talaat Harb.
HSBC Bank (47 Sharia Sultan Hussein) Theres an ATM
Objects of interest in the Graeco-Roman Mu-
seum (%483 6434; 5 Sharia al-Mathaf ar-Romani) include
Sharia Sheraton in Sigala.
AL-QUSEIR
COAST here and another in the foyer of Le Metropole Hotel.
Main post office Two blocks east of Midan Orabi.
Main tourist office (%485 1556; Midan Saad
a carved head of Cleopatra and terracotta lan-
terns depicting the ancient Pharos lighthouse.
The museum is currently closed.
%065 / pop 25,000 Crowned by the historic city of Alexandria, Zaghloul; h8.30am-6pm) This helpful place is beneath
Until the 10th century, Al-Quseir was an im- the Mediterranean Coast has two distinct the tourist police station. Activities
portant transit point for travellers to Mecca. characters. To the west, the Western Desert MG@Net (per hr E2; h10am-midnight) Internet Underwater excavations are ongoing in the
Later it became an entrept for Indian spices impinges on the coast, characterised by an access, near Midan Saad Zaghloul. eastern harbour and around Fort Qaitbey,
destined for Europe. Today it has a sleepy almost continuous strip of Egyptian holiday Passport office (28 Sharia Talaat Harb; h8am-1.30pm bringing to light pavements, platforms, statues
charm absent from other Red Sea towns. resorts. To the east, the fertile Nile Delta spills Sat-Thu) For visa extensions; its off Sharia Salah Salem. and red-granite columns remnants perhaps
106 M E D I T E R R A N E A N C OA S T A l e x a n d r i a Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M E D I T E R R A N E A N C OA S T A l e x a n d r i a 107
of Cleopatras Palace. Alexandra Dive (%483 but vaguely charming, New Capri Hotel has Le Metropole Hotel (%484 0910; resamet@paradise Getting There & Away
2042; www.alexandra-dive.com) offers diving tours a harbour-view breakfast room. inegypt.com; 52 Sharia Saad Zaghloul; s US$100-135, d US$120- BUS
of the submerged harbour sites. The office Union Hotel (%480 7312; fax 480 7350; 5th fl, 164 155; ai) Another four-star hotel, with high The 15th of May bus station is behind Sidi
is situated in the grounds of the Fish Market Corniche; s/d E52/70, with air-con E171/196; a) With ceilings and ornate cornices that hint at Alex- Gaber train station. The tram trip from Midan
complex on the corniche near Fort Qaitbey. clean and comfortable rooms, some with har- andrias 19th-century heyday. Ramla takes 30 minutes. There are services to
Window-shopping is a fun activity in Al- bour views, this is the best budget option. Cecil Hotel (% 487 7173; h1726@accor-hotels Cairo (E28, 2 hours) every 30 minutes from
exandria as there is relatively little pressure Breakfast is E8 extra. .com; 16 Midan Saad Zaghloul; s/d/ste from US$144/170/291; 5.30am to 10pm.
to buy, unlike in the rest of Egypts tourist Crillon Hotel (%480 0330; 3rd fl, 5 Sharia Adib Ishaq; nai) The Cecil is a veritable institution Hourly buses to Marsa Matruh (23, 4
destinations. Lightweight, hand-painted, glass s/d with private bathroom or view E60/90) This old- in Alexandria. Now run by the Sofitel chain, hours) go via El Alamein (E15, two hours).
perfume bottles (E5 to E10) make an at- fashioned establishment has polished floors its progression of famous guests, in-house Daily buses to Siwa (E27, nine hours) leave
tractive gift. and French windows. Many rooms have har- entertainment and elegant interior make it at 7.30am, 11am and 10pm. Other services
bour views. worth a visit if not an overnight. go to Sallum (E23, eight hours, six daily),
Sleeping Windsor Palace Hotel (%480 8700; www.paradise Sharm el-Sheikh (E88, 10 hours, two daily),
Alexandria is one of the few Egyptian cities Eating & Drinking Port Said (E24, four hours, five daily) and
EGYPT
EGYPT
where hotel rates stay the same year-round. ai) This elegant period-piece of a hotel, Cheap eating venues abound between Sharia Hurghada (E85, nine hours).
New Capri Hotel (%/fax 480 9703, %480 9310; 8th with antique lift and mirrored lounge, has Safiyya Zaghloul and Midan Ramla, and along
fl, 23 Sharia el-Mina el-Sharkia; s/d E39/56) Dilapidated stately rooms with harbour views. Sharia Shakor Pasha. SERVICE TAXI
Mohamed Ahmed (%483 3576; 17 Sharia Shakor Service taxis to Cairo (among other cit-
CENTRAL ALEXANDRIA 0 500 m Pasha; dishes E1-10) Popular with locals for the ies) leave from Moharrem Bey taxi station
0 0.3 miles
tasty taamiyya, fuul and fried cheese, this (around E10, three hours). A taxi from Mo-
A B C D places filling meals are good value. You can harrem Bey to Midan Ramla costs E5, or
INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING sit down or take away. catch tram 6.
ATM........................................(see 14)
HSBC Bank (ATM).......................1 D3
Graeco-Roman Museum..............9 D3
Mena Tours...............................10 C3
Elite..................................................17 C3
Mohamed Ahmed............................18 C3
Restaurant el-Shark (Sharia Hassan ash-Seikh) This
1 Main Post Office..........................2 B3 Roman Amphitheatre.................11 C4 Restaurant el-Shark...........................19 B3 is an amiable place to sample local speciali- TRAIN
Main Tourist Office......................3 C3
[email protected] B3 SLEEPING DRINKING
ties such as grilled dove (E8), gizzard soup Cairo-bound trains depart from Misr train sta-
Passport Office.............................5 B3 Cecil Hotel.................................12 C3 Brazilian Coffee Store.......................20 C3 (E3) and fatta (E3.50 to E15.50), which tion, Alexandrias main terminus, and nearby
Telephone Centrale..................... 6 C4 Crillon Hotel...............................13 B3 Dlices.............................................21 C3
Thomas Cook..............................7 C2 Le Metropole Hotel....................14 C3 Trianon Caf....................................22 C3
comprises rice and bread soused in vinegar Sidi Gaber train station, next to the main bus
with lamb or chicken. station. The fastest and most comfortable
Zawia Computer Internet Caf.....8 C3 New Capri Hotel........................(see 3)
Union Hotel................................15 B3 TRANSPORT
To Kadoura (700m); Windsor Palace Hotel.................16 B3 Moharem Bey Service Taxi Station Elite (%486 3592; 43 Sharia Safiyya Zaghloul; dishes trains are the express Turbini (E36/28 in
Fish Market (1km);
Alexandra Dive (1km);
(Service Taxis to Cairo)................23 C4 E3.50-31; a) The ever-popular Elite is an 1st/2nd class, 2 hours), which leave at 8am,
Mo
Traham
Fort Qaitbey (1.5km) To Bibliotheca odd mixture of 1950s diner and elegant cof- 2pm and 7pm. To be assured of seats, book
m me
Champollio
5 & ra
2 EASTERN HARBOUR dishes. The Abela Egypt Sleeping Train (%393 2430;
e)
35iem
lu
2 (B
Kadoura (Corniche; per person around E50; h9am- www.sleepingtrains.com) travels daily to Aswan,
(Y
1&
Nos
el
Mosque bar
Tram r al-Ak
lo
Terbana
3am; a) At Alexandrias most famous restaur-
w
Mosque
ra
Corn Bus to catch and park at one of the no-nonsense and terminates in Aswan at 8.50am. It costs
ns
iche (2
No
16
a
12 22 Midan
sh
13 10 21 (Mahattat)
Souq
staff are rather cold fish too. single cabin. Tickets must be paid for in US
i
3
dollars or euros. The price includes a basic
Sha
Column
fiy
sr Orabi 20 18
-Na 4
kor
ya
An Statue of ul in
1
a) While not quite as characterful as Ka- dinner and breakfast.
Za
hlo Huss e
Pas
Batals
ag 8
Sultan
gh
9
lou
Midan
a
l
17
r
Tahrir
rreyya a wide variety to choose from and numerous station to Midan Ramla, or E10 for a taxi
da
(Midan 5 al-Ho
kh
Sa
lah Ta Tariq To Alexandria
l-A
Mansheiyya) laa
attendant mezze (E4). The harbour views are from the parking area.
An-Nab
le arb
Ah m Sidi Gaber Train Station (4km);
fun the waiters alas are not.
Ba
me
dO 15th May Bus Station (4km)
i Danie
r ab
i Alexandria is famous for its cafs and cof- Getting Around
Fouad
feeshops, where an accompanying pastry is The international airport (%425 0527) is at Burg
l
etw ali
di al-M
Attare
Si
Youse
f de rigueur. The Brazilian Coffee Store (Sharia Saad al-Arab, 60km west of the city. To reach the
Zaghloul) is the oldest coffeeshop in the city. Tri- airport, take Bus 555 (E6, one hour) from
en
11
Salah
Misr Train
Attareen
Station anon Caf (Metropole Hotel; 52 Sharia Saad Zaghloul), with near Cecil Hotel or take a taxi (E80).
ad-D
4 6 its Parisienne interior, or the elegant Dlices A short calche (horse-drawn carriage) or
(%486 1432; 46 Sharia Saad Zaghloul) both offer cap-
in
Midan ail taxi trip costs about E10 but most people rely
Gomhuriyya Ism
Moh m
ed puccino for E7 and mouth-watering gateaux on the efficient tram service. Midan Ramla is
To Pompey's Pillar (750m); arrem Ah
Bey from E4. Try the Rum Baba with a shot of the main station; from here, yellow-coloured
if
Catacombs of Kom
er
ash-Shuqqafa (800m) 23
Sh
east. All tickets cost 25pt. The following are asphalt road to the coast was only constructed relax over a sheesha (E4.50) and mint tea (E3). Alpenblick Hotel (%847 2184; alpenblick@hotmail
the most useful routes: in the 1980s. With the 13th-century shali (for- Try molokhiyya, a stewed leaf soup (E5). .com; Bawiti; s E45, d E90, without bathroom E60) Rooms
tress) at its core, theres plenty to potter round Abdo Restaurant (%460 1243; h8.30am-midnight) are clean and bright, with screened windows
Tram no Route while relaxing into the rhythm of life in the Beloved by backpackers and locals alike, Ab- and fans.
slow lane. dos serves tasty vegetable couscous (E10). International Hot Springs Hotel (%847 3014; www
1&2 Ramla to Victoria, via the sporting club & Rushdy Women need to be careful if wandering .whitedeserttours.com; s/d with half board US$45/70; ni)
6 Moharrem Bey to Ras el-Tin alone in plantations or bathing in springs. Getting There & Around This highly recommended hotel, with hot
15 Ramla to Ras el-Tin via El-Gomruk & Anfushi Several assaults have been reported. North of There are three daily buses to (and from) Al- springs in a sheltered courtyard, has spotless
16 Midan St Katerina to Pompeys Pillar the main square, El Negma Internet Centre (%460 exandria (E27, eight hours). Buses are often chalet rooms with bathroom, fan and screened
25 Ras el-Tin to Sidi Gaber, via Ramla 0761; per hr E10; h9am-midnight) is near the shali. full so buy a ticket in advance from West Delta windows. Located 1km outside Bawiti on the
36 Ras el-Tin to San Stefano & Sidi Gaber Banque du Caire (h8.30am-2pm & 5-8pm) has an Bus Co near the Sports Centre. Cairo Rd, its not a very attractive hotel, but
ATM and theres also a post office and helpful There is no public transport along the its well run and the owner, Peter Wirth, is a
EL ALAMEIN tourist office (h9am-5pm Sat-Thu). half-finished road linking the oases of Siwa veteran of the Western Desert and can organ-
The battle at El Alamein, 105km west of Alex- Siwas attractions include springs where you and Bahariyya. Some 4WD owners in town ise excursions.
EGYPT
EGYPT
andria, was a turning point of WWII. Today can swim, the remains of the Temple of the take passengers (approximately E1300, 10 Food options are limited to the hotels, a
a war museum (admission E5; h9am-4pm) and cem- Oracle, where Alexander came to confirm his hours) but youll need a road permit (US$10 basic cafeteria near the petrol station or the
eteries mark the scene of one of the biggest divinity, and some Graeco-Roman tombs. At per person). towns Popular Restaurant (%847 2239; set meal E20;
tank battles in history. the edge of town are the towering dunes of Donkey carts within town cost E5. Bone- h5am-midnight), which lives up to its name and
The easiest way to visit El Alamein is to the Great Sand Sea. rattling bikes from the main square cost E10 offers good set meals.
organise a car and English-speaking driver There are innumerable safari companies per day.
through Mena Tours (%480 9676; fax 486 5827; Midan in Siwa, most of which charge around E100 Getting There & Away
Saad Zaghloul; h9am-6pm Sat-Thu), based next to the to visit the Great Sand Sea and E120 for an BAHARIYYA OASIS Buses travel to Cairo (E20, four hours) daily
Cecil Hotel in Alexandria, for approximately overnight camping trip to White Mountain %011 at 1pm and 1am. For Farafra (E20, two
E350. A private taxi charges between E150 and Lubbaq Oasis. You can hire sand boards Bahariyya, the nearest oasis to Cairo, has a hours) or Dakhla (E30, five hours), buses
and E200 for the round trip. at the Nour el-Wahaa Restaurant. friendly atmosphere. Its surrounded by a from Cairo stop in front of the Paradise Hotel.
The journey, past a continuous string of re- The best buy in town are locally grown striking black desert and Pyramid Mountain, See p123 for information about travel permits
sorts that receive few foreign visitors, is made dates and olives. where significant dinosaur remains have been between Bahariyya and Siwa.
interesting only by the stone quarries by the found. Buses bring you to Bawiti, the dusty
side of the road and numerous elaborately Sleeping & Eating main village. FARAFRA OASIS
constructed dovecotes. Make sure your hotel room has screened The tourist office (%847 3039; Main St, Bawiti; %092
windows the mosquitoes are voracious in h8am-2pm & 7-9pm Sat-Thu) is open at whim. The The smallest of the oases, Farafra is the best
at 10.30am and 10.30pm. Buses coming from A couple of good restaurants are recom- Restaurants are scarce in Kharga. Eat in Information
Cairo go on to Dakhla (E20, 4 hours, two mended in town, including the long-estab- the hotels or try Al-Ahram, at the front of the There are ATMs at Banque du Caire and Na-
daily) and leave from outside the shops at the lished Abu Mohamed Restaurant (%782 1431; Sharia Waha Hotel on Sharia an-Nabawi, which sells tional Bank of Egypt on the corniche.
Dakhla end of the main street. as-Sawra al-Khadra; dishes E8-10) and Ahmed Hamdys cheap roast chicken and salads. Aboudi (%237 2390; Corniche el-Nil; per hr E10;
Restaurant (%782 0767; Sharia as-Sawra al-Khadra; dishes Checkpoints between Al-Kharga and Luxor h9am-10pm) Internet access.
DAKHLA OASIS E16), popular with the local police. close at 4pm, so start your trip in either direc- Amex (%237 8333; Old Winter Palace Hotel, Corniche
%092 tion before midday. el-Nil; h9am-4.30pm)
The oasis of Dakhla contains two small towns, Getting There & Around Buses leave from the bus station behind Main post office (Sharia al-Mahatta)
Mut and Al-Qasr. Mut is the larger, with most Buses leave from the main square in Mut at Midan Basateen. Services include Cairo (E40 Main tourist office (%/fax 237 2215; Corniche el-Nil;
of the hotels. 6am and 6pm travelling to Farafra (E20, 4 to E45, eight hours, three daily) and Dakhla h8am-8pm) This helpful place is in the Tourist Bazaar.
The tourist office (%782 1685/6; Sharia as-Sawra hours), Bahariyya (E20, seven hours) and (E8, two hours, five daily). The 2pm and 1am Passport office (%238 0885; h8am-2pm Sat-Thu)
al-Khadra; h8am-3pm) is on Muts main road. Cairo (E45, eight to 10 hours). Buses leave buses connect with the 6pm and 6am buses For visa extensions; opposite the Isis Pyramisa Hotel.
The Abu Mohamed Restaurant, opposite the at 7pm and 8.30pm travelling to Al-Kharga to Farafra, Bahariyya and Cairo. Services to Rainbow Net (%238 7938; Sharia Yousef Hassan; per
tourist office, offers internet access (per hr E10; (E10, 2 hours) and Cairo (E50 to E55, Luxor (E35, five hours) depart on Tuesday hr E6; h9am-midnight) Internet access.
EGYPT
EGYPT
h7am-midnight). In Mut, Bank Misr (Sharia Al-Wadi) 11 hours). and Saturday at 1pm, and on Sunday and Telephone centrale (h8am-10pm) By the Old Winter
changes cash and travellers cheques, and gives Service taxis travel to Farafra and Al- Wednesday at 7am. Palace Hotel.
advances on Visa and MasterCard; it doesnt Kharga for the same costs. They depart from Minibuses to Dakhla cost E9 and leave Thomas Cook (%237 2196; Old Winter Palace Hotel,
have an ATM. near the new mosque when full. from the bus station. Corniche el-Nil; h8am-2pm & 3-8pm)
There are 600 hot springs in the vicinity and Local pick-ups depart from near the police
an atmospheric mudbrick citadel at Al-Qasr
with a small Ethnographic Museum (admission E3;
station in Mut and travel to Al-Qasr for 75pt.
Abu Mohamed Restaurant hires out bikes for NILE VALLEY Sights
EAST BANK
hvariable). In exchange for baksheesh, aged E10 per day. The Luxor Museum (Corniche el-Nil; adult/student
local guides escort you through the citadels Measuring 6680km in length, the Nile is the E55/30; h9am-2pm & 4-9pm) has a select collec-
narrow alleyways, unlock madrassas, houses KHARGA OASIS worlds longest river. It brought the nation of tion of Theban relics and an informative video
and mosques, and show you working forges. %092 Egypt into being and its banks are clustered presentation. To learn more about the ancient
Local traders congregate outside the citadel to Except for the impressive Antiquities Museum with the temples and tombs of the countrys il- journey into afterlife, visit the Mummification
sell basketry, including rakish straw hats with (Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser; adult/student E20/10; h9am- lustrious past. Luxor and Aswan are the jewels Museum (Corniche el-Nil; adult/student E40/20; h9am-
ribbon trim (E20), worn by local farmers. 4pm), which houses mummies and gilded masks, in the crown and few can resist time spent on 1pm & 4-9pm).
embalmed birds and rams, the town of Al- the water itself. The town centre spills around magnificent
Sleeping & Eating Kharga is of little interest. You are likely to be Luxor Temple (%237 2408; adult/student E50/25, tri-
El-Kasr Hotel (%787 6013; Al-Qasr; to sleep on roof E3, escorted by police from your arrival in town. LUXOR pod E20; h6am-9pm). Largely built by the New
beds E10) Conveniently located on the main Theres a helpful tourist office (%792 1206; %095 / pop 422,400 Kingdom Pharaoh Amenhotep III, it was
road near the old town, El-Kasr is the best Midan Nasser; h8am-3pm, variable evening hours Sat-Thu), Built around the 4000-year-old site of Thebes, continually added to over the centuries. In
backpacker option in town. and Banque du Caire (off Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser) the ancient capital of the New Kingdom, con- the 13th century, the Arabs built a mosque
Bedouin Oasis Village (%782 0070; bedouin_oasis has an ATM and changes cash and travellers temporary Luxor is an eccentric combina- in an interior court.
[email protected]; Mut; s/d E50/60, without bathroom cheques. tion of provincial town and staggering ancient Of the 730 human-headed, lion-bodied stat-
E30/50; i) This attractive mudbrick building North of town is the well-preserved Temple splendour. The concentration of monuments ues lining the Avenue of Sphinxes between the
with outdoor terrace and fort-style annexe is of Hibis (admission E10; h8am-5pm), built by the is extraordinary: they tower incongruously temples of Luxor and Karnak, 58 still remain.
good value. Persian emperor Darius I. To the east youll above the buzz of everyday life and make this Much more than a temple, Karnak (%238
Beir Elgabal Camp (%787 6600; elgabalcamp@hotmail find the remains of the Temple of An-Nadura, a most compelling destination. 0270; adult/student E60/30; h6am-5.30pm) is a spec-
.com; s/d E50/100, without bathroom E35/70) Run by built by the Romans, and nearby 4th-century tacular complex of sanctuaries, pylons and ob-
Bedouin, this peaceful and attractive camp is Coptic Necropolis of Al-Bagawat. South of town Orientation elisks. Its crowning glory is the Great Hippostyle
located at the foot of the escarpment. There are the fortified Roman temples of Qasr al- Luxor comprises the town of Luxor on the East Hall, constructed around 134 lotus-blossom
are mud or concrete rooms, or you can pitch Ghueita and Qasr az-Zayyan. Bank of the Nile; the village of Karnak, 2km pillars. Begun in the Middle Kingdom, the
a tent and use a bathroom for E20. Dinner You can camp in the palm-filled garden of to the northeast; and the villages and ancient complex was added to, dismantled, restored,
costs E20. the affable Kharga Oasis Hotel (%792 1500; Midan monuments on the West Bank of the Nile. enlarged and decorated over 1500 years.
Desert Lodge (%734 5960; www.desertlodge.net; s/d Nasser; s/d with fan E63/88, with air-con E70/95; a) for In town, there are three main thorough- If you can tolerate the crowds, lame script
half board US$45/60; ai) Perched on a hill near E7.50 per person and use the shared bath- fares: Sharia al-Mahatt (running from the and long walk, then the sound-and-light show
the escarpment overlooking Al-Qasr, this fort- rooms for a few piastres more. Behind the station to Luxor Temple), Sharia al-Karnak (%237 2241; www.sound-light.egypt.com; adult/student
style ecolodge has added some desert whimsy museum is clean and comfortable El-Radwan (Luxor Temple to the Temples of Karnak) E55/44) offers a nonetheless atmospheric in-
to the landscape. With a billiard room, giant Hotel (%792 9897; s/d E50/80; a). Four-star, pink and the corniche. Most budget hotels are lo- troduction to Karnak. Check the website or
outdoor chess set, licensed restaurant, and confection Sol Y Mar Pioneers (%792 7982; www.soly cated between the train station and Sharia tourist office for the current schedule.
Bedouin tent for evening sheeshas, its hard mar-hotels.com; Sharia Gamal Abdel Nasser; s/d with half board Televizyon. Banks, the main tourist office and Microbuses between Luxor town and Kar-
to find the motivation for the desert safaris E530/701; ais) is a favourite with Egyptian other services are clustered around the Old nak cost 50pt. A calche costs E7; a taxi costs
on offer. businessmen. Dinner costs E55. Winter Palace Hotel on the corniche. E10 to E15.
112 N I L E VA L L E Y Lu x o r E a s t B a n k lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N I L E VA L L E Y Lu x o r 113
il
l-N
of Memnon. These statues are all that remain A taxi from Luxor town costs E100 for a
ee
ch
5 22 of a temple built by Amenhotep III. three-hour tour. Alternatively, you can hire a
rni
r
Co
The main ticket office (h6am-4pm) is 500m
ive
k
bicycle and bring it over on the ferry. From the
na
ar
eR
-K
west of the Colossi. Each monument requires main ticket office its 1km to the Valley of the
Al
Nil
a separate ticket. Students pay half price. To Queens and 5km to the Valley of the Kings.
EGYPT
EGYPT
2 Dr
Lab help decide which monuments to target, buy
To Al-Gezira Hotel (200m); ib H
QEA (200m); Tout Ankh
Amon Restaurant (500m);
aba
shi the user-friendly Egypt Pocket Guide to the Activities
West Bank Monuments;
Marsam Hotel (2.4km);
area (E30). The valleys of the Kings and For felucca cruises (per hr per boat E50), stand on the
Nour Al-Gurna (2.4km);
Ticket Office (2.4km);
Sou Queens have separate ticket offices on site. corniche and wait for captains to approach.
qs
Nour El-Ballad (3.4km);
Restaurant Mohammed
Couched in a sun-ravaged ravine of Al-Qurn Horse-riding around West Bank temples
(2.4km); Al-Moudira (7km) (Horn) escarpment, the celebrated Valley of is an unforgettable experience, particularly
qs
Sou ntazh
o
a
the Kings (%231 1662; for 3 tombs adult/student E70/35; at sunset. The best stables are Arabian Horse
Lo
El-M
Midan
h6am-4pm) is the last resting place of the Phar- Stables (%231 0024, 010 504 8558; h7am-sunset).
ca
lF
Hussan
er
ry
7
9 El-M
ata
aohs. Many of them werent allowed much rest, Horse rides cost E25 per hour, camels cost
3 fy 15 however, as the pillage of tombs began before E20 and donkeys E15.
s
xe
the last Pharaohs were buried. Only one tomb, There are many alabaster workshops between
hin
Yo
Haret 3
Sp
us
es-Sahabi
the tomb of Tutankhamen (adult/student E100/50), the Valley of the Kings and Queens. A hand-
ef
of
s
uq
Ha
ue
10
So
found in 1922 by Howard Carter, has so far hewn pot costs from E80. Machine-polished
ssa
en
18
n
Av
14
Sou
6
21
ankhamens treasures in the Cairo Museum, a A balloon ride above the West Bank costs
r
visit to the simple tomb of this minor Pharaoh around E450. Ask in the Nefertiti Hotel
Al-Bah
Cl INFORMATION
eo
pa
tra Aboudi....................................(see 2)
Amex.....................................(see 13)
helps indicate what unimaginable riches once (p114) for details.
rna
k Al-
M
Main Post Office........................1 B4 attended the tombs of more illustrious Phar-
4 Ka
Al- 1 ah
att
a
Main Tourist Office....................2 B4
Rainbow Net..............................3 C3
aohs such as Tuthmosis I or Ramses II. The Tours
Midan Telephone Centrale...............(see 13) corridors and antechambers of the tombs of Travel restrictions for foreigners in the Nile
s
al-Mahatta
Ramse
paintings, while the tomb of Amenophis II, hidden so tours outside Luxor are recommended.
l-N
am
me
dF
Luxor Museum...........................5 C2
rni
Ah
ari
si Luxor Temple.............................6 B4 10pm) Located next to the Old Winter Palace Hotel; has a
da
d
me
13 A Train
al- Mummification Museum............7 B3
dO
20 Station
Midan n eim Photography is strictly forbidden and po- good reputation for day trips.
rab
Salah Mo
4 de
l SLEEPING lice wont hesitate to confiscate film/memory Maher Tadres (%012 258 9635; maherhelta@hotmail
i
5 Sa A
Badhad Nefertiti Hotel..........................10 B3 If you have water and decent walking shoes, driver and guide. Contact in advance of your visit.
Ahm
you can hike across the Theban Hills from the QEA (%231 1667; www.questfortheegyptianadventure
ed O
dF
Novotel
Luxor
Sha
mo EATING towards charitable projects in Egypt, this is a worthwhile
Me
8 Amoun Restaurant...................14 B3
alid
h
Qam Mish Mis Chez Omar..............................15 C3 Rising out of the desert plain in a series
Televizy
r
ibn al-W
Ibn Abi Taleb (Deir al-Bahri; adult/student E30/15; h6am-4.30pm) Many Luxor hotels charge 50% less in sum-
Khalid
DRINKING
Oum Koulsoum Coffee Shop....18 B3 is a spectacular sight. It was vandalised by mer. For a more tranquil experience, try West
6 11 Hatshepsuts bitter successor, Tuthmosis III, Bank hotels.
To Passport Office
(100m); Grand TRANSPORT
Restaurant & Caf (150m); Convoy Departure Point...........19 C1 but retains much of its original magnificence,
7 Days, 7 Ways (150m);
Royal Oak Pub (150m);
EgyptAir...................................20
Minibuses to Bus Station..........21
A5
B4
including elaborate friezes. EAST BANK
Kings Head Pub (200m);
Jolie Ville Mvenpick, Service Taxi Station..................22 D2 The tombs comprising the Valley of the Nubian Oasis Hotel (%292 9445; Sharia Mohammed Farid;
Crocodile Island (3.5km)
Queens (for 3 tombs adult/student E30/15; h6am- dm/s/d E10/10/20, s/d with air-con E20/35; a) Large
114 N I L E VA L L E Y Lu x o r Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N I L E VA L L E Y Lu x o r 115
Nour al-Gurna (%231 1430; nourelgournahotel@yahoo WEST BANK ing you to Al-Kharga. Check current convoy
KING TUT & HIS BODY PARTS .com; Gurna; s/d E150/200) Opposite the ticket of- Restaurant Mohammed (%231 1014; Gurna; meals E8- timings with the tourist office.
After 3500 years King Tutankhamen has fice, this family-run, mudbrick house with 20; h24hr) This eccentric but recommended
been reunited with his genitals. When an painted murals is full of character. It serves restaurant is set in the peaceful courtyard of SERVICE TAXI
X-ray in 1968 showed his penis was miss- delicious home-grown food. Mohammed Abdel Lahis mudbrick house, The service taxi station is off Sharia al-Karnak.
ing, it was assumed it had been stolen for Nour el-Balad (%242 6111; s/d E150/250) This near the ticket office. Mohammeds mother Because of police restrictions youll have to
private collection. A CT scan, however, has attractive hotel near Medinat Habu is run cooks delicious kofta tagen (spiced mince take an entire car and go in convoy, cost-
recently revealed the missing member in by the same friendly family as at Nour al- meat served in an earthenware pot; E20), ing about E300 for Hurghada and E200
loose sand around the Pharaoh. Gurna. served with home-grown salad leaves. for Aswan.
Al-Moudira (% 325 1307; moudirahotel@ Tout Ankh Amon Restaurant (%231 0118; fixed
yahoo.com; Dabaiyya; r/ste US$200/275; nais) menu E35) With rooftop views of the Nile, TRAIN
breakfasts, bike hire (E6 per day) and free If youre a soaker, this atmospheric Moorish- and a pergola of grapes, this is a good place Luxors train station (Midan al-Mahatta) is conven-
use of kitchen/washing machine make this style hotel has terracotta-coloured rooms with to try traditional meat dishes cooked in clay iently located in the centre of town. Abela Egypt
hotel commendable. decadent bathtubs. A 15-minute drive from pots. To get here, turn left after disembark- Sleeping Train (%237 2015; www.sleepingtrains.com)
EGYPT
EGYPT
Nefertiti Hotel (%237 2386; www.nefertitihotel.com; the ferry in glorious gardens, this is a romantic ing from the ferry from the East Bank and services leave at 8.30pm and 9.30pm daily, ar-
btwn Sharia al-Karnak & Sharia as-Souq; s/d E40/60; a) option with excellent dining. walk for 300m along the west bank of the riving in Cairo at 5.45am and 6.45am the next
Helpful cousins run this dark but friendly Nile. The restaurant has a signboard, al- morning. The trip costs US$53/74 per person
hotel with rooftop views of Luxor Temple. Eating & Drinking though the outdoor staircase doesnt look one way in a double/single cabin. Tickets must
They can organise balloon rides and desert EAST BANK too inviting. be paid for in US dollars or euros. The price
tours. Sandwich stands and other cheap-eat pos- includes breakfast.
Mina Palace Hotel (%237 2074; fax 238 2194; Corniche sibilities are found on Sharia al-Mahatta and Getting There & Away Foreigners can take train 981, 1903 and
el-Nil; s/d E80/100; a) Cleanish rooms have bal- Sharia Televizyon. Two favourites with trav- AIR 997 (E67/45 in 1st/2nd class), departing at
conies with great views of the Nile. ellers are Amoun Restaurant (Sharia al-Karnak; mezze The EgyptAir office (%238 0580; Corniche el-Nil; 9.15am, 9.15pm and 11.10pm. The trip takes
Little Garden Hotel (%238 9038; www.littlegarden E2.50-7, mains E7-19; h7am-10pm), at the end of h8am-8pm) is next to Amex. There are regular approximately 10 hours. Train 981 to Cairo
hotel.com; Sharia Radwan; s/d US$18/24; a) Great ser- the souq near Luxor Temple, and neighbour- connections with Cairo (E714, one hour and stops near Abydos, Asyut and Minya but
vice and a secluded garden compensates for ing Al-Hussein. five minutes) and Aswan (E360, 40 minutes), tourist police insist on an armed escort for
poor location in this recommended midrange Grand Restaurant & Caf (h8am-1am; a) A and thrice-weekly flights to Sharm el-Sheikh foreigners who alight here.
choice. favourite with tour groups, the Grand has a (E537, one hour and five minutes). Foreigners can take three daily services to
New Pola Hotel (%236 5081; www.newpolahotel.com; pleasant terrace for mezze (E5) and sheesha Aswan (E30/21 in 1st/2nd class), leaving at
Sharia Khalid ibn al-Walid; s/d US$26/35; ais) This (E5). Its located just off Sharia Khalid ibn BOAT 7.15am, 9.30am and 5pm. The trip takes three
excellent-value three-star hotel has a rooftop al-Walid. During the high season (October to May), hours. All three trains stop at Edfu (E19/15,
swimming pool with stunning Nile views. Chez Omar (%236 7678; Midan Hassan; mains E15; an armada of cruise boats travels the Nile be- 1 hours) and Kom Ombo (E25/18, 2
Jolie Ville Mvenpick (%237 4855; www.moevenpick h24hr) This is a lively place to try pigeon and tween Esna (for Luxor) and Aswan, stopping hours).
-hotels.com; Crocodile Island; s/d US$100/150; nais) other Egyptian dishes. at Edfu and Kom Ombo en route. They cost Theres a train from Luxor to Al-Kharga
Located on its own island, this exceptional 7 Days, 7 Ways (Sharia Khalid ibn al-Walid; a) With from US$50 per night for full board and can every Thursday (E11/10.25 in 2nd/3rd class,
hotel offers bungalow rooms in magnificent roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (E29.50, be arranged through any travel agent. seven hours) at 6am or 7am, depending on
grounds. The infinity pool, among a host of Sunday only), this restaurant is not surpris- the time of year.
amenities, is magically aligned with the Nile. ingly a British favourite. BUS
Old Winter Palace Hotel (%238 0422; h1661@accor Dawar al-Umda (%238 0721; Sharia al-Karnak) A Minibuses to the bus station (Sharia al-Karnak) cost Getting Around
-hotels.com; Corniche el-Nil; r Pavilion Bldg US$125-375, old top-end dining option: a Thousand and One E5 and leave from the Horus Hotel near A taxi from Luxor International Airport (%237
wing US$235-1125; nas) Worth a visit in Nightsstyle garden restaurant at the Mercure Luxor Temple; taxis cost E25. Bus services 4655), 7km east of town, costs around E25
its own right, this colonial landmark on the Inn. It hosts popular Oriental buffets (E85) include Cairo (E85, 11 hours, two daily), to East Bank destinations and E50 to West
corniche is set in a semitropical garden and on Thursday evenings, featuring perform- Hurghada (E30, five hours, eight daily), Port Bank destinations. There are no buses be-
has fine dining, leather-sofa bars and grand ances by Sufi and belly dancers. Said (E70), Dahab (E110, 16 hours), Sharm tween the airport and town.
Nile-view rooms. Sofra Restaurant & Caf (% 235 9752; el-Sheikh (E100, 15 hours) and Al-Kharga For about E20 per hour you can get
90 Sharia Farid St; mains E145) For a highly recom- (E40, four hours, four weekly). For Aswan, around town by horse-drawn calche but
WEST BANK mended dining experience. The caf serves its better to take the train. bargain hard.
Marsam Hotel (%237 2403; [email protected]; traditional Egyptian dishes in intimate, home- Regular baladi (municipal) ferries carry
Gurna; s/d E65/130, without bathroom E45/90) A favour- style dining rooms. CONVOY passengers between the East and West Banks.
ite with archaeologists, this is an atmospheric Oum Koulsoum Coffee Shop (sheesha & coffee E4) Its currently compulsory for foreigners to Youll find the East Bank stop in front of
but not exactly spotless budget option. Next to the Nefertiti Hotel, this is the most travel from Luxor by convoy. There are nu- Luxor Temple, and the West Bank stop in
El-Gezira Hotel (%231 0034; www.el-gezira.com; Al- popular ahwa in town. merous checkpoints, making travel outside front of the dusty car park where the pick-
Gezira; s/d E60/80; a) Offering clean rooms for The Royal Oak Pub (Sharia Khalid ibn al-Walid; h4pm- the convoys impossible. You can drive inde- ups congregate. A ticket costs E1 each way.
bargain prices, this hotel also has a rooftop 2am) and the Kings Head Pub (Sharia Khalid ibn al-Walid; pendently to the Western Desert, but with Private launches charge E5 each way for the
restaurant with Nile views. h10am-2am) are British-style watering-holes. police escorts that often insist on accompany- same trip.
116 N I L E VA L L E Y S o u t h o f Lu x o r lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com N I L E VA L L E Y A s w a n 117
Al-Gurna Hotel; its one of the best ways to niche; there are ATMs at Banque Misr, Banque
To Convoys to
get to the sights. du Caire and the National Bank of Egypt. INFORMATION Luxor (600m); Bus
Station (3km); Service
Amex (%230 6983; Corniche el-Nil; h9am-5pm) Amex.......................................1 C3
Aswan Internet Caf................2 C2
Taxis (3km); Luxor (185km)
National Bank of Egypt (ATM)..7 C3
completely preserved temple in Egypt. Built per hr E10; h9am-1am) Internet access. Passport Office........................8 C3
Telephone Centrale.................9 C3
by the Ptolemies over a period of 200 years, Main post office (Corniche el-Nil; h8am-2pm Sat- Thomas Cook........................10 C3
13
6
20
it was dedicated to the falcon-headed son of Thu) Next to the Rowing Club. Aswan
Train
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
ul)
Osiris. Main tourist office (%231 2811; Midan al-Mahatta; Station
hlo
Monastery of St Simeon.........11 A2
18
h8am-3pm & 6-8pm) Next to the train station.
Zag
Trains running between Luxor and Aswan
EGYPT
EGYPT
Nubia Museum......................12 B4
Tombs of the Local
ad
stop here (see p115 and p118); the station is Passport office (1st fl, Police Bldg, Corniche el-Nil; 2 Elephantine 16
Nil
(Sa
Dignitaries.........................13 C2 Island
e el-
approximately 4km from the temple and taxis h8.30am-1pm Sat-Thu) Visa extensions are available here. Unfinished Obelisk.................14 C4
uq
Abandoned
nich
-So
to the site cost E10. Most cruise boats stop Telephone centrale (Corniche el-Nil; h24hr) Just past Semi-Constructed
As
Cor
Aswan Hotel
11 Botanical
here and a calche from the waterfront costs the EgyptAir office. Garden
2 5
4 22
around E20. Thomas Cook (%304 011; Corniche el-Nil; h8am- Al-
Ma
tar
19
2pm & 5-9pm) Cashes travellers cheques.
Ho erry
F
Key
te
Kom Ombo lan
l
Siou 3 y
Spectacularly perched on the Nile near the Sights s
17
ge
village of Kom Ombo, the Temple of Sobek You dont have to be in Aswan long to rec- Vi
lla
Abb
7
3 n
& Haroeris (adult/student E30/15; h6am-4pm) is ognise local ethnic pride. Justice is given to Temple of
Khnum & Nu
bi
a
23
as F
arid
dedicated to the crocodile god and falcon- the history, art and culture of the local peo- Ruins of Abu Koti 8 10
headed sky god respectively. In ancient times ple in the excellent Nubia Museum (Sharia Abtal Essa
Island Muhammed SLEEPING
sacred crocodiles basked themselves in the at-Tahrir; adult/student E50/25; h9am-1pm & 5-9pm). 24
1 Yassin
Basma Hotel...........................15 B4
ver
Amun Brooke
sun along the river bank here; these days, The Nubia Submerged exhibition, which in- Ferial 9 Cleopatra Hotel..................... 16 D2
Ri
Island Hospital
Gardens for Animals Keylany Hotel........................17 C3
le
crocodiles are unable to swim past the High cludes photographs of Philae and Abu Simbel
Ni
21 Coptic Cathedral Marhaba Palace Hotel........... 18 D2
Dam at Aswan. before they were re-sited, tells the story of Mvenpick Resort..................19 C3
Nuba Nile Hotel.....................20 D2
If youre travelling from Luxor you can stop how the Nubian homeland was submerged by Isis 15 Old Cataract Hotel.................21 B4
Island 12
r
hri
here on the train (p118) and take a taxi to the the building of Lake Nasser. The entrance is Fatimid
Ta
EATING
at-
4 Cemetery
site (E10). A return taxi from Luxor to Edfu opposite the Basma Hotel, a 15-minute walk
tal
Al-Masry Restaurant.............. 22 D2
Ab
Old Cataract Hotel .............(see 21)
and Kom Ombo costs E225 to E250. Cruise from the town centre.
at
Panorama Restaurant.............23 C3
Sud
To Dams (12km);
boats moor alongside the temple steps. The unfinished obelisk (adult/student E30/15; Philae (15km); Aswan 14
International Airport TRANSPORT
h7am-5pm) lies in the granite quarries that To Nubian House
Restaurant (500m)
(25km); Abu Simbel EgyptAir.................................24 C3
ASWAN supplied the stone for pyramids and temples. (280km)
%097 / pop 241,000 Three sides of the shaft, which is nearly 42m
Egypts southernmost city sits on the banks long, were excavated before it was discarded One highly recommended and energetic few midrange hotels, the Cleopatra has a small
of a particularly beautiful stretch of the Nile, due to a flaw in the granite. Taxis charge E5 local tour operator is Montasser Mohammed rooftop pool.
decorated with palm-fringed islands and flo- from the centre of town. (%012 335 9105; [email protected]). He can Marhaba Palace Hotel (%233 0102; marhabaaswan@
tillas of white-sailed feluccas. Associated with From Aswan, felucca trips (E25 per hour) arrange just about anything to anywhere for yahoo.com; Corniche el-Nil; s/d US$50/60; a) This
the Nubian people, a distinct ethnic group can be organised to Kitchener Islands verdant individual travellers. recommended bright and friendly hotel has
with their own language and customs, the botanical garden (admission E10; h8am-5pm) and the rooftop views of the Nile.
town is more African in character than the 6th-century Coptic Monastery of St Simeon (adult/ Sleeping Basma Hotel (%231 0901; [email protected];
cities of the north. student E20/10; h7am-4pm winter). To reach the Keylany Hotel (%/fax 231 7332; www.keylanyhotel.com; Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir; s/d US$108/141; nais)
monastery, take a camel from the dock (E40). Sharia Keylany; s/d E50/70; a) The best budget op- Opposite the Nubia Museum, the Basma is
Orientation You can also get a boat to Old and Middle tion in town, with professional staff and deli- modern, efficient and has attractive gardens.
The bus and train stations are at the northern Kingdom tombs (adult/student E20/10; h8am-4pm) cious breakfasts. Breakfast costs E27.
end of town. The lively souq (Sharia as-Souq) of local dignitaries on the West Bank. Nuba Nile Hotel (%231 3267; hamdi _abed@hotmail Mvenpick Resort (%230 3455; www.moevenpick
runs parallel to the corniche. Banks, restaur- .com; s/d E50/70; ai) This comfortable, local- -aswan.com; s/d US$183/236; as) This splendid
ants and shops are located on the corniche, Tours flavour hotel is a short walk from the train resort on Elephantine Island is the perfect
which ends at the imposing Coptic cathe- Travel restrictions for foreigners in the Nile station. place to relax and enjoy kingfishers and hoo-
dral, the Nubia Museum and the citys better Valley make independent travel challenging, Cleopatra Hotel (%231 4001; fax 231 4002; Sharia poes from your balcony. Theres a free 24-
hotels. so consider taking a tour. as-Souq; s/d US$32/45; ais) One of Aswans hour ferry to the corniche.
118 N I L E VA L L E Y A s w a n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N I L E VA L L E Y A r o u n d A s w a n 119
Old Cataract Hotel (% 231 6000; www You can get around Aswan by calche (E10 A nightly sound-and-light show (%230 5376;
.sofitel.com; Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir; r US$168-1500; as) GOING TO SUDAN WHAT, TODAY? per hour). A 3-hour taxi tour to the Temple admission E55), lasting 1 hours, is held at the
Its not difficult to imagine Agatha Christie If youre planning on crossing the Sudanese of Philae, High Dam and Unfinished Obelisk temple.
penning Death on the Nile from her riverside border to Wadi Halfa, make sure youre not costs around E30. A taxi anywhere within
balcony in this grand old dame of a hotel. in a hurry. Michael Palin describes the expe- town (including from the town centre to the Abu Simbel
Dont even think of turning up for supper in rience in his famous Pole to Pole adventure. bus station) costs E5. %097
the Moorish-style restaurants without a reser- You can read about his Day 62, tolerance- Perhaps the most striking temple in Egypt, the
vation: ad hoc callers are unwelcome. testing, sofa-riding border exploits on the AROUND ASWAN magnificent Great Temple of Abu Simbel (%400
web at: www.palinstravels.co.uk/book. High Dam 325; adult/student E70/35; h5am-5pm) was cut from
Eating & Drinking The original dam across the Nile was built by the hillside to honour the gods Ra-Harakhty,
The most popular snack stand in town is the British at the beginning of the 20th century; Amun, Ptah and the deified Pharaoh Ram-
next to Aswan Coffee Shop. Its opposite a person for a permit, plus the cost of food and however, it was insufficient to keep the Nile in ses II. Discovered by Burkhart in 1813, pro-
public oven and uses freshly baked bread for drink supplies. check during the annual spate. The Egyptian truding from the interring desert sands, the
taamiyya sandwiches. You could also try a three-night cruise on government was assisted by various nations in four famous colossal statues of Ramses II sit
EGYPT
EGYPT
Nubian House Restaurant (%232 6226; mezze E4-5, one of the superbly luxurious boats that slide building a new dam in the 1960s. It was opened majestically facing east. Each statue is over
mains E7-20) Serving authentic Nubian dishes, along the Nile towards Esna, near Luxor. They with due pomp and ceremony in 1971 and came 20m tall and flanked by smaller statues of
this restaurant has stunning sunset views of cost E50 per night full board and leave from to be seen as a symbol of Egypts independence the Pharaohs mother and his beloved wife,
the First cataract. the corniche; trips and can be arranged by any in the modern world. As the full environmental Nefertari.
Panorama Restaurant (%231 6108; Corniche el-Nil; travel agent or hotel. impact of the dam began to be understood, The neighbouring Temple of Hathor is
mains E8-15) Try the delicious fish tagen (E15) however, it became source of controversy, not guarded by six further standing statues of
and enjoy the view of Elephantine Island from BUS least on account of the disruption it caused to Ramses and Nefertari. In the 1960s both tem-
this recommended Nile-side restaurant. Bus services include Cairo (E85, 13 hours), the Nubian communities swallowed up by the ples were winched to higher ground to avoid
Al-Masry Restaurant (%230 2576; Sharia al-Matar; Luxor (E15, four to five hours, six daily) and creation of Lake Nasser. the rising waters of Lake Nasser in an ingenious
meals around E25) A local institution, Al-Masry Hurghada (E45, seven hours). To reach the High Dam, taxis cost E40 feat of engineering.
produces tasty kebabs and kofta, served with (round trip). Dont miss the spectacular sound-and-light
bread, salad and tahini. CONVOY show (admission E60); with a succinct script and
Old Cataract Hotel (Sharia Abtal at-Tahrir; h8am- It is compulsory for foreigners to travel be- Philae (Aglikia Island) inventive imagery, its the best in Egypt. With
11pm) Enjoying tea or an apritif on the Nile- tween Luxor and Aswan by convoy. Check cur- Built by the Ptolemies and Romans and relo- the waters of Lake Nasser quietly lapping the
side terrace at the Old Cataract is on many a rent convoy timings with the tourist office. cated to a different island after the building of shore behind, a canopy of stars presiding over-
travellers must-do list. The hotel discourages the High Dam in the 1960s, the Temple of Philae head, and the repeated forms of Ramses teased
an inundation of tourists by charging E80 SERVICE TAXI (adult/student E50/25; h7am-4pm) is a romantic into life by the caresses of superimposed im-
per person for this privilege, which goes only A taxi to Luxor costs about E250 if you stop sight. It was dedicated to Isis, who found the ages in front, this is one show that could best
partially towards the price of afternoon tea at Kom Ombo, Edfu and Esna en route. heart of her slain brother, Osiris, on Philae be described as in the round. Particularly
(E43 to E55). The remainder, we suppose, Island. Early Christians later turned the hypo- effective are the sequences of hieroglyphic
can be put down to experience. TRAIN style hall into a chapel. warriors and musicians that float across the
The cafs on the busy corner of Midan al- Abela Egypt Sleeping Train (%230 2124; www.sleeping To reach Philae, taxis cost E40 for the surface of the burnished statues, reinventing
Mahatta and Sharia as-Souq are great places to trains.com) services leave at 5pm and 6.30pm, round trip and the boat costs E35. the forms for a postmodern sensibility with-
linger over honey-drenched baklava and tea. arriving in Cairo at 5.45am and 6.45am the out damaging or diminishing the original.
next morning. The first service travels on to As such, the show is more than a piece of
Getting There & Away Alexandria. Tickets cost US$53/74 per person HIGH DAM FACTS historical explication, it is an art experience
AIR one way in a double/single cabin. Tickets must or a piece of magic, if you prefer.
EgyptAir (%231 5000; Corniche el-Nil; h8am-8pm) has be paid for in US dollars or euros. The price Old Dam built by British in 1902 There are banks in town, but no ATMs.
six flights to Cairo (E1037, 1 hours) and a includes a basic dinner and breakfast. High Dam completed in 1971 Abu Simbel Village (Hotel Abbas; %/fax 400 092,
daily flight to Luxor (E364, 30 minutes). Air-conditioned tourist trains to Cairo 2.3 million stones in Cheops Pyramid %012 363 9794; r E110; a) is the cheapest ac-
(E43/E81 in 1st/2nd class, 13 hours) via commodation option in town. Attached to a
BOAT Luxor (E30/E21 in 1st/2nd class, three 40 million stones in High Dam cultural centre, the mudbrick Eskaleh (%012
See p124 for details of the weekly ferry to hours) leave at 6am, 6pm and 8pm. All three Third-largest dam in the world 368 0521; [email protected]; s 30-35, d 40-50;
Sudan via Wadi Halfa. of these trains stop at Kom Ombo (E15/12 in Lake Nasser is second-largest man- i) features comfortable accommodation,
Aswan is the best place to arrange overnight 1st/2nd class, 45 minutes) and Edfu (E19/10, made lake in the world and regular performances of Nubian music
felucca trips because even if the winds fail, 1 hours). and dance. Meals (breakfast/lunch/dinner
Plus points: provides protection from
the Niles strong currents propel boats north. E15/30/40) feature organic, home-grown
flooding
The most popular trips are to Kom Ombo GETTING AROUND vegetables. Despite catering largely for top-
(one night, two days; E31.50 per person) or Service taxis from the Aswan International Air- Minus points: enormous environmental end tour groups, Nefertari Hotel (%683 1677;
Edfu (two nights, three days; E56.50). Boats port (%248 0333) to the town centre cost E1. A impact www.nefertarihotelabusimble.com; s/d US$100/120) man-
sleep six and passengers pay an extra E5 per private taxi should be no more than E25. ages a peaceful atmosphere with great views
120 E G Y P T D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E G Y P T D I R E C T O R Y D i s c o u n t C a r d s 121
overlooking Lake Nasser. The monuments are hours. Note also that all tourist sites are of- pleasure of Egypts monuments if youre not UK Lowndes St, London (%020-7235 9777; 2 Lowndes St,
a five-minute walk away. ficially open an hour later in summer months: prepared for it. You should also be on the alert SW1); South St, London (%020-7499 2401; www
You can eat at the Seti Abu Simbel or at in reality, its rather more ad hoc. for scams such as con men posing as guides .egyptianconsulate.co.uk; 26 South St, Mayfair W1)
a clutch of ramshackle restaurants, includ- Banks & government offices 8.30am to 1.30pm or archaeologists. USA Chicago (%312-828 9162-4; Suite 1900, 500 N
ing taamiyya and shwarma (sliced minced Sunday to Thursday. In the Sinai, beware of wandering off the Michigan Ave, IL 60611); Houston (%713-961 4915/6;
meat shaved from a rotating skewer of meat, Post offices 8.30am to 2pm Saturday to Thursday. beaten track: unexploded ordinance still litters Suite 2180, 1990 Post Oak Blvd, TX 77056); New York
wrapped in Arabic bread with salad garnish) Private offices 10am to 2pm and 4pm to 9pm, except parts of the desert. City (%212-759 7120-2; 1110 2nd Ave, NY 10022); San
stands, on the main street. Friday. Francisco (%415-346 9700/2; 3001 Pacific Ave, CA 94115);
Most tourists travel to Abu Simbel on a Restaurants & cafs Noon to midnight daily. DISCOUNT CARDS Washington, DC (%202-895 5400; www.embassyofegypt
coach tour (E60 to E100) in one of the two Shops 9am to 2pm and 5pm to 10pm summer, 10am to Discounts to museums and sites are avail- washingtondc.org; 3521 International Court NW, Washing-
daily convoys from Aswan. These currently 7pm winter; some close on Sundays. able for students with an International ton, DC, 20008)
leave at 4am and 11am, take 3 hours and Student Identity Card (ISIC). With proof
allow two hours before returning. You can CUSTOMS of status, you can obtain one of these in Embassies & Consulates in Egypt
also get there by hiring a taxi (E150) for 24 Visitors may import duty-free 1L of alcohol Cairo from ESTS (Map pp88-9; %02-531 0330; www Most foreign embassies and consulates open
EGYPT
EGYPT
hours, allowing you to enjoy sunset on Lake and 400 cigarettes. Currency, cameras, sports .estsegypt.com; 23 Sharia Manial, Midan el-Mammalek, El- from 8am to 2pm Sunday to Thursday.
Nasser and the recommended sound-and- equipment; electronic devices and jewellery Roda). Avoid buying bogus cards, or discounts Australia (Map pp88-9; %02-575 0444; fax 02-578 1638;
light show. are meant to be declared on entry. Note that for bone fide students may be jeopardised. 11th fl, World Trade Centre, 1191 Corniche el-Nil, Bulaq)
EgyptAir has two daily flights from Aswan you cant take Egyptian pounds out of the Canada (Map pp88-9; %02-794 3110; fax 02-796 3548;
to Abu Simbel (E640 return), leaving at country. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES 26 Sharia Kamal el-Shenawy, Garden City)
6.30am and 9am. You can also go by boat Egyptian Embassies & Consulates Eritrea (Map pp88-9; %02-303 3503; eritembe@yahoo
from the High Dam, across Lake Nasser. Ask DANGERS & ANNOYANCES There is a listof Egyptian diplomatic and con- .com; 6 El Fallah St, Mohandessine)
any travel agent for details. All travel in Upper Egypt between Aswan sular missions at www.mfa.gov.eg. Ethiopia (Map pp88-9; %02-335 3693;
and Cairo, and in many parts of the Sinai, is Australia Canberra (%02-6273 4437/8; fax 02-6273 [email protected]; El Mesaha Sq Villa 11, Doqqi)
FOOD Although now widely accepted through- TIME You have 14 days to apply for an extension
From kebabs and pizzas to noodles and roast out Egypt, credit cards still arent accepted in Egyptian time is two hours ahead of GMT. after your visa has expired. Thereafter theres
beef, there is a wide variety of food available, budget hotels and restaurants, nor in remote a fine of E100 and youll need a letter of apol-
though theres limited choice for vegetar- areas such as the Western Oases. TOURIST INFORMATION ogy from your embassy.
ian travellers. See p86 for a description of Bargaining, for everything from hotel There are tourist offices throughout Egypt; all
national dishes. rooms to clothes, is part of life in Egypt. provide free maps and brochures. The office Visas for Onward Travel
It is advisable to stick to bottled water Tipping, called baksheesh, is indispensable in Cairo is notoriously sluggish but in most See the Embassies & Consulates section (p121)
(check the seal as rogue traders fill up bottles and is relied upon to supplement low sala- other big cities staff are immensely helpful. for contact details.
from the tap). ries. In hotels and restaurants, taxes of up Eritrea Visas cost US$30 and are usually issued the same
to 25% are added to the bill and a further VISAS day.
HOLIDAYS 15% should be given to the waiter. A guard Visas at the airport (US$15 or 15) are avail- Ethiopia Bring two photos and a return air ticket. One-
In addition to the main Islamic holidays who shows you something at an archaeologi- able for nationals of all western European month visas cost US$69, and are usually issued within 24
(p1106) and moveable Coptic Christian holi- cal site expects a pound or two. Asking for countries, UK, USA, Australia, all Arab coun- hours.
days, Egypt celebrates the following: directions is about the only service that is tries, New Zealand, Japan and Korea. Nation- Jordan Visas cost nothing for Australians, US$20 for UK
EGYPT
EGYPT
New Years Day 1 January baksheesh-exempt. als from other countries must obtain visas in and US citizens, and are usually issued the same day. Bring
Unity Day 10 February their countries of residence. one photo.
Sinai Day 25 April POST If you are travelling overland you can get a Libya Visas for independent travel to Libya are not being
May Day 1 May Postcards cost E1.15 to post and take five visa at the port in Aqaba, Jordan, before get- granted at present.
Liberation Day 18 June days to get to Europe and a week to 10 days to ting the ferry to Nuweiba. If you are coming Sudan Visas take from 24 hours to a month to issue and
Revolution Day 23 July the USA and Australia. Letters of 20g cost be- from Israel, you cannot get a visa at the bor- cost US$85 for one month; you need a letter of invitation
Armed Forces Day 6 October tween E1.60 and E2.20 (depending on desti- der; you must apply for one from the embassy and three photos.
Suez Day 24 October nation) and 1kg parcels cost between E65.40 in Tel Aviv or the consulate in Eilat.
Victory Day 23 December and E88.40 to send surface mail. Blue post A single-entry visa is valid for a stay of one VOLUNTEERING
boxes are for international airmail. month and is valid for three months from the For voluntary activity in Egypt, contact the
INTERNET ACCESS time it is issued. Near East Foundation (www.neareast.org/main/Egypt),
Access to the internet is widely available SHOPPING Free entry stamps allowing 15-day visits which covers wide-ranging projects including
throughout Egypt. In this chapter, selected Egypt has a long lineage in arts and crafts, as to Sinai (between Taba and Sharm el-Sheikh, bridge-building, establishing veterinary units,
internet cafs are listed in each town. a glimpse of Tutankhamens treasure amply including St Katherines Monastery but not and tutoring classes. Alternatively, try Volun-
shows. Hand-made beadwork from Sinai, Ras Mohammed National Park) are issued at teers for Peace (www.vfp.org); with no religious
MAPS basketry from the Western Oases, glass from Taba, Nuweiba (port), St Katherines (airport) or political affiliation, its agenda focuses on
Excellent site maps of all the major monu- Alexandria and alabaster pots from Luxor and Sharm el-Sheikh (airport or port). fostering peaceful international relations.
ment areas are provided in Alberto Siliottis form part of that ancient tradition. See the Military permits, issued by either the Min- Incidentally, if you have no specialist train-
informative booklets in the Egypt Pocket Guide shopping section (p96) for details of specific istry of the Interior or the border police, are ing, you are unlikely to find voluntary work
series (E30 each), published by the American crafts in the capital area. needed to travel in the Eastern Desert south on archaeological digs.
University in Cairo Press. The Bartholomew of Shams Allam, on or around Lake Nasser,
World Educational Map of Egypt (E60) is TELEPHONE & FAX off-road in the Western Desert, or between WOMEN TRAVELLERS
user-friendly. See p87 for recommended maps Calls can be booked at telephone offices, the oases of Bahariyya and Siwa. These can be Hassling is more or less constant in Egypt
of Cairo. known as centrales, in main cities. Alterna- obtained through a safari company or travel though assault is rare. To avoid problems,
tively, card phones for direct-dial interna- agency at least a fortnight in advance. dress conservatively (ie no shorts or bare
MONEY tional calls are widely available; telephone shoulders except in beach resorts).
The official currency is the Egyptian pound cards (E10, E15, E20 and E30) can be Visa Extensions & Re-entry Visas A couple of useful Arabic phrases are: la
(E; in Arabic, a guinay). One pound consists bought at shops and kiosks. Off-peak is from In Cairo, all visa business is carried out at the tilmasni (dont touch me) and ihtirim naf-
of 100 piastres (pt). Collect plenty of E1 and 8pm to 8am Sunday to Thursday, and all day monolithic, Egypto-Stalinist Mogamma (Map sak (behave yourself). Swearing at would-be
E5 notes for baksheesh. Friday and Saturday. pp92-3; Midan Tahrir, Downtown; h8am-1.30pm Sat-Wed). Romeos only makes matters worse.
Money can be changed at commercial Egypts mobile-phone network runs on the Collect and submit a form (window 12 on the
banks, foreign exchange bureaus and some
hotels. Rates dont vary much. Travellers
cheques can be cashed at banks, Amex and
GSM system. There are two mobile-phone
companies operating in Egypt: MobiNil (%in
Cairo 02-760 9090; www.mobinil.com) and Vodafone
1st floor) with stamps (from window 43), one
photograph and photocopies (both available
on ground floor) of the photo and visa pages
TRANSPORT IN EGYPT
Thomas Cook offices. (%in Cairo 02-529 2000; www.vodafone.com.eg, www of your passport. The visa extension is proc- GETTING THERE & AWAY
ATMs are found in major towns through- .mobileconnect.vodafone.com). Both sell widely avail- essed overnight and available for collection Air
out Egypt, though they are less common in the able prepaid cards. Mobile-phone numbers from 9am the next day. Most air travellers enter Egypt through Cairo,
Western Desert. In general, those belonging to begin with an 010 or 012 prefix. In other cities, extensions of tourist visas Alexandria or Sharm el-Sheikh.
Banque Misr, Banque du Caire, the National Fax services are available at the main cen- (from E11) are easily obtained at passport of- Egypts international and national carrier
Bank of Egypt and HSBC accept Visa and trales in the big cities. A one-page fax costs fices. Bring one photograph and photocopies is EgyptAir (%0900 70000; h8am-8pm), which is
MasterCard for cash advances. E7.65. of the photo and visa pages of your passport. neither good nor cheap.
Lonely Planet Publications
124 T R A N S P O R T I N E G Y P T G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T R A N S P O R T I N E G Y P T G e t t i n g A r o u n d 125
EGYPT
Egypt has land borders with Israel and the Sea & Lake (around E6 per day) and easy. Bringing your ing taxes. Fill up when you can many sta-
Palestinian Territories, Libya and Sudan. The JORDAN own is another matter: police restrictions in tions run out of petrol.
land border with Sudan, however, is closed The excellent fast-ferry service between Nu- Upper Egypt mean that youll have to take The official speed limit is 100km/h on mo-
and the only way to travel between Egypt weiba in Egypt and Aqaba in Jordan leaves the bike on the train between most points of torways. For those caught speeding, driving
and Sudan is to fly or take the Wadi Halfa Nuweiba at 2pm and takes one hour. One-way interest on the Nile. licences are confiscated and fines are payable
ferry (p211). tickets cost US$55, payable only in US dollars. at the police station.
Its worth noting that almost all interna- Be at the port two hours before departure. Boat Foreign drivers need an International Driv-
tional bus and ferry tickets must be paid for A slow ferry (US$41/29 per adult/child, 2 From liners plying the Suez Canal to ferries ers License.
in US dollars. hours) leaves at noon daily. crossing the Nile, transport in Egypt has
Free Jordanian visas can be obtained on traditionally taken place on the water, and Hitching
ISRAEL & THE PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES the ferry if you have an EU, US, Canadian, some form of boat ride is an experience you With police checkpoints throughout Egypt,
The Taba border with Israel is open 24 hours. Australian or New Zealand passport. shouldnt miss. Options include taking a glass- hitching is not recommended.
Taxis or buses to Eilat (4km from the bor- bottom boat in Sharm el-Sheikh, crossing the
der) are available on the Israeli side, with SUDAN Red Sea to Hurghada, cruising from Luxor Local Transport
frequent connections to Jerusalem and Tel The Nile River Valley Transport Corporation (%in to Aswan in luxury, and sailing around the Travelling by servees (usually microbuses or
Aviv. The Rafah border is currently closed Aswan 097-303 348, in Cairo 02-575 9058) runs a twice- islands near Aswan in a traditional white- Peugeot 504 cars) is a quick way of travelling
to foreigners. weekly car/passenger ferry to Wadi Halfa in sailed felucca. between cities. A driver wont leave until all
Coming from Israel to Egypt, you must Sudan, leaving Aswan on Mondays around For more see the Sharm el-Sheikh, Luxor the seats are paid for.
have a visa in advance unless your visit is noon. Trips take between 16 and 24 hours. and Aswan sections of this chapter. Calche (horse-drawn carriages) are a pop-
limited to eastern Sinai (see p123) or you have You need a Sudanese visa (available from Note there are no student discounts on ular way to get around many towns.
prearranged your entry with an Egyptian tour Cairo). Single fares are E250 for airline-style ferry fares.
operator. There is an entry tax of E30 payable seat; E380 for cabin with bunk. The ferry Train
at a booth about 1km south of the border on service is occasionally suspended. Bus The train is rather a hangover from colonial
the main road. Coming from Sudan, you need an Egyptian Bus services cover almost every destination days and in need of modernisation. Travel-
Vehicles can be brought into Egypt from visa (available from Khartoum). To bring a pri- in Egypt. Deluxe buses, with decent seats, ling by deluxe bus is preferable to the train
Eilat; the amount of entry duty depends on the vate vehicle, you must have a triptyque (avail- air-con and loud Arabic videos, travel between except on the Cairo to Luxor/Aswan route,
type of vehicle, but averages about E100. able from automobile clubs) from the country main cities. Superjet offers the best service. when the sleeper service is recommended as
of registration, or pay hefty customs duty. Keep your ticket until you disembark as in- something of a train classic. Students with an
JORDAN spectors board the bus to check fares. There ISIC card receive discounts of 33% on fares
From Cairo, theres a twice-weekly Superjet Tours are no student discounts on bus fares. except sleeping-car services.
service to Amman (US$70, 15 hours), leav- Literally thousands of companies offer tours to
ing Al-Mazar Garage near Cairo airport on Egypt. For one of the most famous, try Thomas
Sunday and Thursday at 5am. Theres also a Cook (www.thomascook.com), which has been show-
daily East Delta service to Aqaba (US$41, 10 ing people the pyramids for over a century.
hours) at 8pm.
Departing Alexandria, theres one daily Su- Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
perjet service to Amman (US$72, 18 hours) PORT TAX
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
at 4pm and another to Aqaba (US$34, 12 Egyptian international ferries charge E50
hours) at 6pm. port tax per person on top of the ticket
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
These services use the ferry between Nu- price. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
weiba and Aqaba. the above - Do the right thing with our content.