The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
SKIN
OF YOUR
LIFE
STARTS
HERE
BUSTING BEAUTY MYTHS SO YOU
KNOW WHAT TO USE AND WHY
PAULA BEGOUN
BRYAN BARRON
DESIREE STORDAHL
Co-Authors: Bryan Barron and Desiree Stordahl
Editor: John Hopper
Research Assistants: Mercedes Santaella-Lam, Vanessa Lucas, and Nathan Rivas
Art Direction, Cover Design and Typography: Erin Bloom and Andrew Eder
Production Manager: Karen Link
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be used for any purpose other
than personal use. In addition, any reproduction, modification, or transmis-
sion in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photo-
copying, recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, is strictly
prohibited without prior written permission from Paulas Choice, LLC, except
for the inclusion of quotations in a review.
PUBLISHERS DISCLAIMER
The intent of this book is to present the authors ideas and perceptions
about the marketing, sale, and use of cosmetics, as well as to present consum-
ers with information and advice regarding the purchase of makeup and skin-
care products. The information and recommendations presented in this book
strictly reflect the authors opinions, perceptions, and knowledge about the
subject and products mentioned.
It is everyones inalienable right to judge the products and information pre-
sented here based on their own criteria and to disagree with the authors. More
important, because everyones skin can, and probably will, react to external
stimuli at some point in their lifetime, any product can potentially cause a
negative reaction on skin, at one time or another. If you develop skin sensitiv-
ity to a cosmetic, stop using it immediately and consult your physician.
If you need medical advice about your skin, you should consult a dermatol-
ogist or physician. The authors are not medical doctors or professional health-
care providers and they do not provide medical advice or medical diagnoses.
This book does not offer medical advice or attempt to diagnose or take care
of any skin problem, disease, or skin concern or any other health or medical
problem or concern. If you have a medical concern or problem with your skin,
please make an appointment to see a dermatologist or physician in your area.
Do not use or rely on the statements in this book for medical advice, to
determine any medical condition, or as an alternative to medical advice from
your doctor or other professional healthcare providers. Consult a doctor or
other professional healthcare provider if you have any questions about any
medical matter and seek immediate medical attention if you believe you or
others may be suffering from any medical concern or disorder.
Any information provided by the authors is, at best, of a general nature
and cannot substitute for the advice of a medical professional, such as a quali-
fied doctor/physician, dermatologist, nurse, or pharmacist. All products men-
tioned in this book should be used as directed on the product container or on
the website from where such products were purchased. Discontinue using any
product that causes irritation (e.g., redness, itching, burning, scaling, soreness,
or other symptoms).
DO NOT DELAY SEEKING MEDICAL ADVICE, DISREGARD MEDICAL
ADVICE, OR DISCONTINUE MEDICALLY PRESCRIBED PRODUCTS BE-
CAUSE OF INFORMATION OR STATEMENTS PROVIDED IN THIS BOOK.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
5. Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont......33
The title of this book and the name of this chapter make bold statements,
yet I make them with the utmost confidence. Thats because the information
youll find on every page is based on what current research shows can help you
solve your skin concerns by using a step-by-step cohesive skincare system you
can understand and put into action. If you do this, I just know that you can
have and maintain the beautiful skin youve always wanted! All the details,
recommendations, and encouragement I present throughout this book are
what you need to get yourself on the fast track to finding the best products
and best answers for your skin.
FROM PAULA
This book was compiled by a talented team of experts; I just happen to be
one with who has been in the world of cosmetics the longest and have been
writing books about beauty since 1985. If youre not familiar with my work,
Ive been studying, reviewing, and researching scientific and medical journals
about skincare for over three decades. I have a background in science from
my university studies, and I was a lifestyle reporter in Seattle for four years.
Starting in 1985and now with this Special Digital Edition bookIve written
21 books on beauty, skincare, makeup, and haircare (the first entitled Blue Eye-
shadow Should Be Illegal), several of them well over 1,000 pages, with millions
of copies sold around the world.
I am also founder of Paulas Choice Skincare, which I launched in 1995,
a collection of products I formulated with options for practically every skin
type and skin concern. Of course, I love my products and, of course, its my
preference for you to consider them when choosing products for taking the
best care of your skin. But, I also know that there are many beneficial products
2 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
from other lines that you can choose, I want to be sure you understand how to
take the best care of your skin, no matter whose products you use.
It has always been my mission to help you get the best skin of your life and
to know what you should and should not do, AND to find the products that
are ideal for your skin type and your skin concerns, whether they are my prod-
ucts or someone elses.
PAULAS JOURNEY
Ive had a love-hate relationship with the cosmetics industry from the very
beginning. It started with an intense curiosity and passion for skincare and
makeup when I was a teenager. My passion wasnt because I was fixated on
buying cosmetics for fun; rather, it was about trying to take care of my prob-
lem skin that progressively got worse and worse no matter what I used or what
expert I consulted. It was an emotional ordeal for me and, to this day, it is still
painful for me to remember the stress and embarrassment of dealing with the
unsightly skin problems I suffered through as a teen.
At the age of 11, it started with terrible acne and super-oily skin along with
debilitating eczema over 60% of my body (in school I had to wear gloves to
hold a pencil because my hands were so raw and sore from my incessant
scratching of the eczema-caused itching).
All I wanted at the time were effective products that would do as they
claimed. This didnt seem like too much to ask, right? Given how many times
I was told month after month, year after year, how different products would
end my struggle, surely something would work. However, over the next 20
years, no matter where I turned, whether to cosmetics counters, drugstores,
spas, or even doctors offices, almost every product I tried led to disappoint-
ment. Despite the promises and claims, my skin rarely showed any signs of
improvement, and it gradually just got worse! I felt helpless! I was in a frus-
trating cycle of trying to find products that workedevery time it led to dis-
appointment, and continued suffering. Yet, like most women, that didnt stop
me from trying again and again.
Finally, in my twenties, I came to the realization that most skincare claims
were either seriously misleading, just plain wrong, or, at best, delusional. I was
determined to find out the truth about skin and skincareit became a com-
pulsion, eventually leading me to take my first steps into a career in the world
of cosmetics.
It was by no means a straight path, and I had no idea that it would lead me
to where I am today; I only knew I was on a personal pursuit, which eventually
became a global mission, and I have never wavered from that mission through-
The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now 3
out all the years Ive been doing this. I didnt want anyone to go through what
I went through ever again. In looking over my evolving career, I believe Ive
accomplished much of what I set out to do. But Im not quitting! Theres still a
lot of work and research yet to be done.
just because those devices worked well for your grandmother. Like laptops
and smart phones, advances in skincare reflect the same concept in terms of
the innovative and cutting-edge technology used to develop todays best prod-
ucts to take the best care of your skin.
Taking care of your skin in some ways is as complicated as rocket science
because skin is so multifaceted and complex but the goal of this book is to
bring it down to earth for you so you can make the best decisions for your skin.
Summing it up: Dont cheat your skin by accepting myths about skincare
as facts. Even as little as 20 years ago, there was little to no information about
the need for broad-spectrum sun protection, antioxidants, skin-replenishing
ingredients, skin-restoring ingredients, skin issues involving environmental
assault, and on and on.
sleeping with the enemy and going over to the dark side? How could I ever be
impartial again? Those are good questions, but the answer is that anyone who
is familiar with my work over the years knows that I havent compromised my
principles or values for one moment. Paulas Choice Skincare is still the only
cosmetics company in the world that recommends products from other lines
and that also tells you what limitations exist in the world of skincare.
My reason for starting Paulas Choice Skincare was in large part due to
pressure from my friends, family, and readers of my books. They kept ask-
ing me to make my own products that didnt have all the buts and warn-
ings of the other products I reviewed. They would say, You always write this
product is good, but its too expensive for what you get, but it has too much
fragrance, but it comes in unstable packaging, but there are better prod-
ucts out there. Theyd practically yell at me, exclaiming: Just make your own
products so we know what to use, because otherwise its overwhelming, too
much to read, and theres no way to really know whats best! I understood
precisely what they were talking about, and thats when my mission in life
changed and expanded.
So, in 1993, I decided I could indeed make state-of-the-art products that
left out all the buts and that were loaded with ingredients research showed
were beneficial for skin. The idea for Paulas Choice Skincare was born; the
first eight products began arriving two years later!
As you can tell, my enthusiasm for writing my books and information on
my website didnt go away! I couldnt give up what I had been doing for the
previous 10 years of my life. Skincare information is not only my mission and
heritage; it is also my legacy. And, as it turned out, my books and formulating
products for Paulas Choice Skincare enhanced each other in tangible mean-
ingful ways.
The types of ingredients and products that deal with dry skin, oily skin,
signs of aging, congested pores, uneven skin tone, marks from bumps, tem-
peramental skin, environmental assault (everyone has environmental dam-
age), combination skin, and on and on are essentially the SAME for everyone.
Think about it like a diet. Whats healthy or unhealthy to eat is general-
ly the same for everyone (save for individuals with specific allergies). Adding
more green, vegetables, whole grains, and fish rich in omega fatty acids to your
diet is healthy, while eating processed foods, deep-fried foods, and sugars are
not, no matter who you are and regardless of your age, race or where you live.
range of substances naturally found in skin to keep feeding it day in and day
out to be as healthy as possible.
This also holds true for badly formulated skincare products: The harm can
be ongoing and you wont know because the damage is taking place beyond
what your eyes can see. It can take years before you see the damage on the
surface of skin. I dont want any of us to wait years only to find out that what
we were using on our skin all along was detrimental.
It also isnt necessary to test drive a product to know its strengths or
weaknesses because first you cant tell, especially in the short term but
mostly because the research on most ingredients has already been carried
out so you can choose the formulas that only contain the good stuff and
none of the bad just as is true for food or medicine.
You dont need to eat processed foods to know how unhealthy they are for
you or to smoke cigarettes to find out years later that that was a bad choice.
A vast amount of research has already been done to determine what those
results will be; the same is true for skincare ingredients.
How skincare ingredients are combined and how they work in products is
well known from the ongoing research in the cosmetic, medical, and biological
sciences. Theres also extensive, documented medical and scientific research
about how different ingredients affect skin. The information we present about
ingredients is based on that research, which is why our recommendations can
really help you find products that work for your skin type and your skin con-
cerns and that you will enjoy usingbecause they really work!
Even plant extracts have names that are incomprehensible such as Gaultheria
procumbens or Simmondsia chinensis.
Vitamin C is one of many great ingredients for skin, but even that has over
a dozen different forms with overly technical names on an ingredient label,
and each has its own benefit and usefulness in a formulation.
In addition to the difficulty of untangling an ingredient label and all the
claims espousing an ingredients or products benefits, there are also all the
horror stories about ingredients that you find on the Internet and in other
sources. Almost without exception, the fear-mongering youve read about
such ingredients as parabens, silicones, mineral oil, sulfates, and so on is just
plain wrong.
Sometimes the statements made about these types of ingredients (and
many, many others) are taken out of context from the research, leading to
irrelevant and silly conclusions. Sometimes the statements are made up out
of thin air, derived or extrapolated from unrelated sources, and/or have no
scientific basis (we cant tell you how often this happens).
Any ingredient can be made to sound scary by manipulating the facts.
For example, waters chemical name is Dihydrogen monoxide, which has been
confused repeatedly with the dangerous carbon monoxide because the two
have similar-sounding names. Plus, as innocuous as water seems, drinking too
much within a short period of time can cause serious health problems, and we
all know that you can drown if youre submerged in water for too long.
We cant tell you how many times weve heard various advocate groups
suggest that if you cant pronounce an ingredient name, it must be dangerous.
The absurdity of that is overwhelming to us. No one can pronounce a plants
real botanical name such as Symplocarpus foetidus (cabbage) or Rubus pensil-
vanicus (blackberry) but that doesnt make it automatically safe or unsafe.
To demonstrate how this fear-mongering works, Ill use mineral oil as an
example. There are those who want to scare you into believing that mineral
oil is bad for you, while the research reveals just the opposite. Not only is cos-
metic grade mineral oil natural (it comes from the earth), but the research also
makes it crystal clear that its one of the gentlest and safest skin care ingredi-
ents out there, especially for very dry skin and other serious skin damage. But
because it is associated with gasoline it has been labeled falsely as the source
of all evil for skin.
Other examples of ingredients that have been subject to fear-mongering
include silicones, which are a brilliant group of ingredients that have been
used in hospital intensive care units around the world for decades; sulfates,
The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here and Now 13
which are not problematic and do not cause disease; and parabens, which are
some of the safest, most non-irritating preservatives ever used in cosmetics.
Authentic scientific and balanced information is out there, but it has been
a lifelong pursuit for me, and now my team, to filter through the research, not
something a consumer can easily pick up or find the time to figure out; even
people within the cosmetics industry have difficulty in this area, and so fall
prey to misleading or completely false information.
One other point, perhaps the most significant, is that even if you could
read and understand an ingredient label, how would you know which ingre-
dients are best for your specific skincare concerns, from acne to wrinkles and
everything in between. Thats where my team and I come in, and this book can
be your guide.
CHAPTE R 2
Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know
feel greasy. Products claiming they wont cause bumps may contain pore-clog-
ging, emollient ingredients that dont sound like they would be a problem be-
cause we dont recognize the names on the ingredient label. Products claiming
to be skin renewing contain ingredients that deplete skin. And theres always
the issue of daytime moisturizers not containing sunscreen.
You can get a clearer idea of how using products that arent gentle is caus-
ing this hidden, secret damage to skin by understanding what we know about
how skin reacts to unprotected sun exposure; that is, when you arent seeking
shade and are not wearing a sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater.
The sun is a major cause of early signs of skin aging and skin cancer. Yet,
other than the (hopefully) rare occasion when you get sunburned, you dont
feel or even see the damage being done to your skin from not wearing a sun-
screen rain or shine, until years later. Even more shocking is that the most
damaging rays of the sun can come through windows, and its for certain you
never feel thatnow that really is a silent killer!
The exact same concept applies to skin. Skin is the bodys largest organ, and
everyones skin needs the same ingredients to address dry skin, acne, wrinkles,
sun protection, uneven skin tone, oily skin, redness, sensitive skin, and so on.
All of these problems affect every color of skin and the skincare ingredients
that resolve these issues dont change because of skin color.
Everyones skin also needs the same basic caregentle cleansing, sun pro-
tection, and state-of-the-art products for their specific skin type. Having dark-
er skin does not stop unprotected sun exposure from damaging skin.
It is also important to avoid problematic ingredients, such as alcohol, men-
thol, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon, lime, and natural or synthetic fragranc-
es, because exposure to harsh ingredients will worsen any concern on any
color of skin.
Some of you may have read that Asian skin is more sensitive and, therefore,
that it is critical that Asians use non-irritating skincare products. Even if Asian
skin were more sensitive, it doesnt mean that those with non-Asian skin, any-
where in the world, should use products with potentially sensitizing or harsh
ingredients. Everyone, everywhere, should be gentle to their skin because us-
ing skin-aggravating products is detrimental, no matter who or where you are.
Whether you have normal, oily, combination, or dry skin or your skin con-
cerns include sun damage from not using an SPF product daily, the appearance
of wrinkles, large pores, breakouts, uneven skin tone, redness, loss of firmness,
and on and on, theres no research showing that different skincare formulas
are needed based on your race or heritage. Around the world, ingredients that
benefit skin and ingredients that are a problem for skin are the same.
Simply put, as far as biology and physiology are concerned, regardless of
your ethnic, racial, or cultural background, you do NOT need special skincare
products. Let go of this ideain most cases, it wont help (and could actually
hurt) your skin.
other skincare products. Its skincare details like this that are vital to getting
the best results from the products you choose and use.
Dont expect instant results. There are products that can have dramat-
ic, even overnight results, but they are the exceptions. It takes time for most
products to really make a difference, and maintaining those results requires
ongoing and regular use.
For example, products to brighten skin and create an even skin tone can
take three to six weeks to begin showing positive outcomes (assuming they are
well formulated and you are also using a sunscreen every day).
Products that are meant to protect and replenish skin and to defend it
against signs of aging and other problems may show instant hydration and
smoothness, but the long-term significant underlying benefit will take years
to see.
Using sunscreen every day helps protect skin from the serious consequenc-
es of sun damage, and youll see a dramatic difference in skin tone and dull
skin rather quickly when you start using it daily. But the real long-term benefit
of using sunscreen daily will become astonishingly evident later in life when
you compare your skin to the skin of friends who didnt protect their skin
from the sun. Then you will be thrilled that you followed our advice.
Your skin must be nourished and fed daily. As you age, and mostly be-
cause of sun damage from not wearing an SPF 30 or greater every day, your
skin cannot naturally replenish the substances it needs to be healthy. Great
skincare products give those substances back to skin. We cannot stress this
enough!
Skin-replenishing substances get used up quickly and must be resupplied
on a constant, daily basis, twice a day. Dont cheat your skin by not giving it
the indispensable ingredients it needs to maintain a beautiful, healthy appear-
ance, now and for years to come.
Skin doesnt renew itself only at night. We hear this repeatedly, skin re-
news itself only at night and needs special ingredients that it doesnt need
during the dayit isnt true. All of our skincare woes are happening all day
long, whether from the environment, daylight, aging, health problems, or
midlife changes. Skin needs help, day and night, to renew itself and minimize
more problems from taking place. Also, there is no research showing that
there are skincare ingredients your skin needs at night that it doesnt need
during the day, although during the day, the important skincare ingredients
must be accompanied by sun protection.
One product cant do it all. All skin types (especially if you have multiple
concerns) require a variety of products to give you the best skin of your life. For
Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 21
some people basic core products you need for every day (i.e., cleanser, toner,
exfoliant, sunscreen for daytime, and moisturizer at night) can be all you need
to take the best care of your skin. But if you have special skin concerns, such
as very dry skin, advanced signs of aging, extremely oily or extremely combi-
nation skin, uneven skin tone, among many other concerns, you will need to
address those with specialized products designed for that specific problem.
For issues like skin brightening, advanced sun damage, enlarged pores,
clogged pores, dehydrated skin, rough skin texture, or acne, your basic core
skincare routine will likely not be enough. Layering targeted solution prod-
ucts specially designed for your specific skincare concerns will be the optimal
way to get the best results possible from your skincare routine.
Regularly use a leave-on exfoliant. The benefit to your skin from using a
gentle leave-on exfoliant with AHA or BHA can be astounding and can show
immediate results. Helping skin naturally shed the build-up of dead surface
skin without any abrasion or harsh scrub particles can make all the difference
in the world. The feeling of smoothness you will experience from the first day
you start using it will surprise you. Keep in mind the cause of the build-up of
dead surface skin doesnt go away permanently rather an AHA or BHA exfo-
liant is a maintenance step that you must apply consistently to take excellent
care of your skin.
And do not use an abrasive scrub or rough cleansing brush. The scraping
these cause creates negative consequences that can make many skin concerns
worse.
Do consider a retinol and/or niacinamide product. There are so many
reasons to apply a well-formulated retinol or niacinamide product its hard to
know where to begin. We will focus on retinol and how it relates to specific
skin types and concerns later, but for now, just know that both these skin-re-
storing ingredient help all skin types be healthier, unclog pores, smooth skin,
and improve the appearance of wrinkles and bumps.
Of course, skin needs more than any one or two ingredients can provide,
but retinol and niacinamide are two of those ingredients with special prop-
erties that works for everyone, and the results can be amazing, over the short
term and the long term.
Pay attention when your skin changes. There are all sorts of things that
can cause your skin to change seemingly overnight. Many women are aware
of how monthly changes affect their skin; others experience skin differences
when midlife changes start taking place. Seasonal weather variances, travel-
ing to different climates, and extreme emotional stress can all affect your skin
negatively.
22 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
Given that most peoples skin is not static, it is often necessary to adapt
your skincare routine accordingly. For example, even if you never have had a
bump or oily skin growing up, midlife changes or just cycle changes can make
your skin react in a completely new way. If that happens, youll need to re-
consider the skincare products you are using and change to products that are
appropriate for your new skin type. That may mean you need to create an
entirely new skincare routine, but far more typically you just need to add one
or two products to what you are already using and/or stop using one or two
products in your routine.
Everyone needs the same vital ingredients to obtain healthy, younger,
smoother, even-toned, firmer-looking, and bump-free skin. This is another
fundamental aspect of skincare we must emphasize. All skin typesand we
mean ALL skin typesneed the same critically important skincare ingredi-
ents to have the best skin possible. These ingredients include antioxidants,
skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients. Each of these is
mandatory, and we mean imperative, if you are to obtain the best skin of your
life; we explain why in detail later throughout this book.
Balance the needs of your skin type with the needs of your skin concerns.
By skin type, we mean how oily, dry, combination, or sensitive your skin is.
Skin concerns are signs of aging, uneven skin tone, loss of firmness, clogged
pores, blemish-prone skin, redness, and sun damage from not using sunscreen
daily (sunscreen is always part of the picture).
Your skin type determines the texture of the products you use. Whether a
cleanser, toner, exfoliant, moisturizer, sunscreen, or specialty formula for spe-
cific concerns (such as serum, boosters, targeted solutions, or masks), the tex-
ture of the product (rich cream or lotion for dry skin and gel, lotion-gel, fluid,
or liquid for normal to oily skin) will again make all the difference in the world.
So, while everyones skin needs the same fundamental ingredients
antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-replenishing ingredients
everyone should NOT be using the same type of texture in their products.
If you have dry skin, using a matte-finish product will make your skin drier;
if you have oily skin, using an emollient moisturizer will make your skin feel
oilier and potentially clog pores. This is a very basic concept, but many com-
panies and women dont realize it.
Know your skincare concerns. Separate from knowing your skin type
(normal, oily, dry, or combination), you need to identify your specific skincare
concerns, such as uneven skin tone, clogged pores, bumps, the appearance of
wrinkles, loss of the feeling of firmness, sun damage from not wearing sun-
screen (and how advanced that damage is), and so on. These concerns will
Skincare Facts Everyone Needs to Know 23
We touched on this topic already, but now well expand a bit on the critical
types of ingredients that all skin types need. This section is short and sweet
because in some ways it is as standard as discussing a healthy diet. Healthy
foods are not a mystery, we know what they are when were shopping at the
grocery store. The same is true for skincare. Scientific studies and the physiol-
ogy of skin make it perfectly clear that healthy skin needs an ample supply of
substances that are natural to skin.
When we are young, our skin makes these substances in abundance, but
over the years, these important substances gradually become depleted, the
result of sun damage from not regularly wearing sunscreen, aging, mid-life
changes, and health issues. As a result our skin is no longer able to resupply
these substances in skin or to hold on to them. Providing your skin with these
necessary substances via your daily skincare routine, twice a day, is what great
skincare is all about.
ANTIOXIDANTS
Skin needs a generous supply of antioxidants. Antioxidants are a group
of ingredients that diminish the impact on skin of the environment, stress,
midlife changes, sun damage due to not wearing sunscreen daily, and myriad
other issues. Anything you can do to slow the impact of these occurrences
is incredibly beneficial, and antioxidants are definitely the foremost group of
ingredients that are fundamental to doing just that.
The best moisturizers (lotions for normal skin, creams for dry skin, and gels
and liquids for oily/combination skin) are formulated with a potent blend of
antioxidants that help provide skin with what it needs to fight off the negative
influences that can impact skin.
26 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
SKIN-REPLENISHING INGREDIENTS
Environmental attack decreases skins ability to resupply and maintain
the substances that are important for skins integrity as it did when we were
younger. When these skin-replenishing ingredients (also referred to some-
times as skin-identical ingredients) are present in abundance they keep skin
supplied with protective ingredients that help maintain moisture balance and
conserve skins all-important ability to renew itself day in and day out.
These ingredients help maintain a resilient supple skin surface that allows
skin to look smooth, soft, enlivened, and luminous. It also helps skin readjust
and become normalized, which is critical for every skin concern imaginable.
There are many skin-replenishing ingredients, including such well-known
substances as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, glycerin, ceramides, leci-
thin, sodium PCA, and many more. These skin-loving ingredients keep skin
supplied with what it needs to be refreshed and supple, and to looking glow-
ingly revived every day.
SKIN-RESTORING INGREDIENTS
Skin-restoring ingredients can help skin appear more radiant and younger
by boosting skins rejuvenating processes. It really is astounding what these
types of ingredients can do for skin.
Once again those insidious culpritsenvironmental assault, sun damage
from not wearing sunscreen daily, aging, and midlife changeslimit skins
ability to renew itself as it once did. The result is skin that is less hydrated,
less supple, shows more signs of aging and loss of firmness, uneven skin tone,
and loses the ability to take care of itself by keeping surface skin organized and
intact.
Skin-restoring ingredients help skin not only look renewed, but also feel
and appear normal, balanced, and younger in so many ways. This is an excit-
ing area of skincare! The key players in this group are niacinamide, retinol,
multiple peptides, lecithin, and adenosine triphosphate.
CHAPTE R 4
Skin Type vs. Skin Concern
Once youve determined what your skin type is, whether its normal, dry,
oily, or combination, and you know your primary skin concerns, you can then
determine what type of products you need for your basic core skincare rou-
tine. The core products are the primary ones you should be using every day
and they are the same for everyone.
The next step is to be sure the texture of your core products is appropriate for
your skin type:
Creamy, rich-textured products for dry skin.
Light lotion-textured products for normal skin.
Gel-, fluid-, or watery-textured products for oily/combination skin.
ing cleansers or toners with witch hazel or denatured alcohol), or you arent
using a sunscreen with an SPF 30 or greater, whatever you want to be better
about your skin wont happen.
Products with ingredients that aggravate your skin disturb and deplete the
surface, making it drier and weakened, which add up to worsening signs of ag-
ing, skin looking dull and unhealthy, and even triggering bumps and clogged
pores.
Alternatively, if you use overly emollient or thick-textured products and
you have oily skin you will make it feel oilier and have more clogged pores or
bumps. If you use emollient moisturizers along with a drying cleanser you can
create combination skin, oily in some areas and dry in others.
If you dont use a well-formulated, gentle leave-on exfoliant you can have a
build-up of dead surface skin that cant shed in a normal manner, which will
lead to dull skin with a rough uneven texture, skin that feels less supple and
less firm, and worsening of enlarged clogged pores.
If you over-scrub and use drying cleansers, regardless of your skin type you
will impair skins surface, which will make all the problems mentioned above
worse.
Until you get these external factors under control, you will find it difficult
to ever really know your skin type because you may be causing it to be dif-
ferent from what it normally would be, and not in a good way. The kinds of
products you use make all the difference in the world when trying to reach
your goal of having the best skin of your life now.
Once youve ruled out the controllable factors that can affect your skin
type (for example, unprotected sun exposure, smoking, too much alcohol) and
eliminate problematic products (for example, poor formulations, jar packag-
ing, ingredients that arent gentle, or products like scrubs that harm and de-
plete the surface of skin, not using sunscreen) from your routine, youll be able
to more accurately determine your skin type.
areas that are oily and have clogged pores. This is where skincare can get com-
plicated because once youve identified your skin concerns, then you need to
add the specialty solution products to address them.
Your core skincare routine may be enough to handle many aspects of your
skin concerns, depending on how stubborn or complex they are. You are the
only who can determine how targeted and precise a skincare routine you want
and need.
At night you need a moisturizer to feed your skin once again, with healthy
amounts of antioxidants, skin-replenishing ingredients, and skin-restoring
ingredients. The texture of your moisturizer must be appropriate for your skin
type. If you have oily/combination skin, a liquid, gel, or thin serum would be
ideal; dry skin would need a rich emollient cream; and normal skin would do
great with a lotion.
CLEANSERS
No other aspect of skincare is as basic or as important as a cleanser. Cleans-
ing the face sets the stage for almost everything else that will take place on
your skin. A great cleanser removes excess oil, dirt, impurities, and makeup,
leaving skin smooth and fresh without feeling greasy or dry.
If you dont cleanse your skin regularly or if you dont remove all your
makeup, your skin will pay the price, with potential clogged pores, dry patch-
es, puffy eyes, and red areas.
Careful cleansing is essential for every skin type, and its equally critical for
every skin type that the cleansing products be gentle. Over-cleansing or using
cleansers that are too drying are major causes of skin problems, especially dry-
ness, flaky patches, and redness.
On the other hand, using a cleanser that leaves a greasy film on the face or
that doesnt clean well can lead to clogged pores and dull-looking skin, and
prevent moisturizers from being absorbed and doing their job. It is essential to
get this step right, and that means thoroughly, but gently, cleansing your face.
Should you start with a makeup remover? Many people feel their cleans-
ing routine should start with a makeup remover, such as a liquid remover,
makeup wipes, or a cleansing oil. Although this works well for some people
(particularly if you wear a heavy makeup application), they are merely an op-
tion, not a requirement.
Regardless of the type of makeup remover you use, keep in mind that the
action of wiping and pulling at the face, especially around the eyes, is a prob-
lem. Tugging on skin encourages sagging. The less you pull, the better your
skin will hold up in the long run.
34 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
As is true for many aspects of skincare, you should experiment to see what
works best for your skin type and your own personal preferencesbut do take
care not to pull or tug on skin, whether you use a makeup remover before or
after cleansing.
What about facial cleansing oils? The term facial cleansing oil is a bit
confusing because the category is not clear-cut. Some facial cleansing oils are
oils in name only; theyre actually more like emollient water-soluble cleans-
ers that are meant to be rinsed off. These can be a great option if you have
normal to very dry skin.
Traditional facial cleansing oils usually are an actual blend of plant oils or a
single plant oil that are massaged onto the face and then wiped off. This is an-
other way to remove makeup and can be followed by a water-soluble cleanser;
for those with extremely dry skin, just wiping the oil away is enough.
There are lots of myths circulating about facial cleansing oils. We prefer
facts to myths, and the fact is that facial cleansing oils are not miracles for
skin, theyre just another option that may or may not be helpful for you de-
pending on your skin type and concerns.
The notion that cleansing oils can somehow unclog pores by some force of
chemistry pulling clogs out of the pore is not supported by any research. We
still dont understand the explanations weve seen for this as they defy science
and physiology.
Keep in mind that many facial cleansing oils also contain fragrant oils,
which present a serious problem for skin. As we will repeatedly state through-
out this book, fragrance, whether natural or synthetic, causes problems for
skin. Non-fragrant plant oils are the only ones you should ever consider put-
ting on your face.
What about bar soap? We wish we could say bar soaps are great for skin
as that would make choosing a cleanser so much easier and less expensive;
regrettably, thats not the case. For many reasons, its best to never use bar soap
on the face, and also helpful to avoid it from the neck down. This is particular-
ly true if you have problems with dry skin or breakouts anywhere on your face
or body, but no matter what your skin type, there are significant issues with
using most bar soaps or bar cleansers.
Many people with combination, or oily skin believe that the tight sensation
they feel after washing with soap means their face is really clean. The thinking
is that the more squeaky-clean their face feels, the better their skin will be, yet
just the opposite is true! The feeling associated with being squeaky-clean is
most likely an indication that skin is being aggravated, dried out, and stressed,
which makes all skin problems worse.
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont 35
ing brushes deal only with the very top superficial part of skin, while most of
the unhealthy built-up surface dead skin is beyond the reach of where a scrub
or cleansing brush can extend.
If you want to use a manual scrub, be sure it doesnt contain any abrasive
ingredients, even if they are natural. If using a cleansing device, be sure you
use only the devices sensitive brush-head option. The brushes on such de-
vices should feel very soft and flexible, never stiff or wiry.
You also can simply use a gentle washcloth with your daily cleanser, which
provides skin with a manual cleansing step. As a bonus, washcloths are often
softer (thus more gentle), less expensive, and, of course, they dont contain
pore-clogging ingredients!
the wrong toner on oily, breakout-prone skin can cause skin to be oilier, red-
dened, and often dry and flaky.
The best toners for oily or breakout-prone skin are those with ingredients
that soothe and recharge skins surface, make skin feel smoother, diminish
enlarged pores, and contain antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients to
make sure skin has what it needs to ward off dryness and sensitivity.
For some skin types, especially during summer or in warmer climates, a
well-formulated toner may be the only moisturizer your oily skin needs!
Toners for dry or sensitive skin: Those with dry or sensitive skin typically
shy away from toners because of their astringent, drying reputation; after all,
the last thing dry, sensitive skin needs are harsh ingredients! But, the right
toner for dry or sensitive skin can make a world of difference: Youll see less
redness and less flaking, and your skin will feel soothed and comfortable. The
goal with toners is to quickly replenish skin after cleansing and, while that is
important for all skin types, it is especially important for those with dry or
sensitive skin.
If youre skeptical (and we cant say we blame you) give a well-formulated
toner a trywe know youll be pleasantly surprised with how fast your skin
improves!
Toners for combination skin: If your skin is oily on your forehead, nose,
and chin and dry to normal on your cheeks or jaw area, then you have classic
combination skin. Using the wrong toner on combination skin will exagger-
ate the dry areas and make oily areas worse (this is doubly true if breakouts and
clogged pores are present).
Whats the solution? You need a gentle toner with ingredients that help
normalize your skin, so youll see less dryness and oiliness. With ongoing use
as part of a complete skincare routine, youll also see enlarged pores become
smaller and the surface of skin feel balanced and normalized.
When shopping for toners, its critical that you consider only those that
give your skin to nothing but beneficial ingredientsonly the good and none
of the bad.
cleansing brushes. A gentle leave-on exfoliant helps shed dead skin when it
cant do it naturally on its own any longer.
This completely non-abrasive form of exfoliation provides multiple ben-
efits, including fighting signs of aging and alleviating uneven skin tone, dull-
ness, and breakouts, so dont let the acid in the name of these amazing ingre-
dients scare you.
Heres how it works. Your skin naturally sheds immense amounts of dead
skin every day, but this shedding process can slow and practically stop due to
sun damage especially advanced sun damage (from years of unprotected sun
exposure), dry skin, oily skin, midlife changes, and various skin concerns. All
of those things can cause a build-up of dead skin on the surface and inside
the pore lining. The not-too-pretty results of this are unmistakable: dull, dry,
or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; bumps; fine lines; loss of firmness; and
uneven skin tone.
Adding a gentle leave-on exfoliant to your skincare routine helps put ev-
erything in balance again. When you gently and imperceptibly get rid of the
build-up of dead skin, you help unclog pores, help smooth out fine lines, and
can even make dry, dull skin a thing of the past!
In fact, AHAs and BHAs actually provide significant hydration for skin,
something you could never achieve with a scrub or cleansing brush. A leave-
on AHA or BHA exfoliant can be the best way to achieve a new healthy glow-
ing radiance, sometimes overnight.
You may be wondering what the difference is between an AHA exfoliant
and a BHA exfoliant. A very good question as this can prove to be a confusing
nuanced difference and thats because when properly formulated, both AHAs
and BHA are brilliant options for exfoliating the surface of skin and can work
for both skin types. Now that does make it confusing as which one you should
choose.
Both AHA and BHA have a lot in common when it comes to improving
hydration, diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, renewing skin, and im-
proving loss of firmness. Both also can improve an uneven skin tone and make
skin imperfections less visible. But, each also has unique qualities youll want
to consider when deciding which one to use:
AHAs are preferred for those whose chief concerns are dry skin because
they exfoliate primarily on the surface of skin. They do not cut through oil,
so they are less compatible for those who have oily/combination skin.
BHA is preferred for oily skin, clogged pores, enlarged pores, and bumps
because BHA can cut through the oil thats clogging your pores and there-
fore helps to normalize the pore significantly lessening bumps.
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont 39
likely see some improvements right away (because the antioxidant-rich for-
mula soothes, calms, and brightens skin), over the long term youll begin to
see other signs of aging diminish and your skin will look and feel healthier
and firmer!
Theres no single best serum, so choose your serum based on your skin
type and concerns. No matter how well-formulated a serum is, if it isnt com-
patible with your skin type, youll end up disliking the results, and you wont
stick with it. For example, if you have oily or combination skin, look for a
water-light serum that doesnt feel heavy or greasy. Alternatively, if you have
dry skin, youll likely love a serum packed with antioxidant-rich moisturizing
plant oils! If your skin is not oily, combination, or dry, choose a serum based
on personal preference, and dont be afraid to experiment.
this, but a surprising number of them fall short, and that applies to a lot of the
more expensive options.
Even though the standard term for this skincare step is moisturizer, its
not really about giving skin moisture (meaning water), and it isnt just about
applying a lotion or cream. Moreover, and this may really stun you, not every-
one needs a moisturizer. What everyone needs twice a day is to give their
skin ample amounts of antioxidants, skin-restoring ingredients, and skin-
replenishing ingredients.
As weve said repeatedly, these types of ingredients are essential to achiev-
ing and maintaining the skin you want by giving it the substances it needs to
renew, rejuvenate, and stay hydrated and healthy every day. Regardless of the
product name or texture, choosing a product loaded with these elements is
vital for making skin look as young and healthy as possible.
If a moisturizer is well-formulated and includes an array of those key in-
gredients, the only thing you need to think about is the texture. If they are
well-formulated, the only thing that differentiates moisturizers and anti-
wrinkle or similar products from one another is their texture.
If you have dry to very dry skin, you need a moisturizer that has a creamy
texture; if you have normal to dry skin, a lotion formula will work well. If you
have normal to slightly dry skin or combination skin, a lightweight lotion or
thin fluid is your best choice. If you have oily skin and clogged pores, a gel, flu-
id, or liquid moisturizer is the absolute best option. And all of these should
be packed to the brim with the essential skincare ingredients everyone needs.
If you are using a serum, apply it before you apply the moisturizer. During
the day, apply the serum and then apply your moisturizing sunscreen.
health and appearance of your skin will have enduring impact. UV exposure
without protection literally destroys skin, slowly and surely.
No matter what youve been told the fact is the only real difference be-
tween a nighttime moisturizer and a daytime moisturizer is sunscreen but all
the other elements weve been talking about still apply. Aside from having an
SPF 30 or greater your daytime moisturizer still must contain the same array
of beneficial ingredients as your nighttime moisturizer. And, as we said, there
is no research showing that skin needs different ingredients during the night
versus during the day, so whatever youve heard to the contrary is not backed
up by science.
The texture issue also applies for your daytime moisturizer with sunscreen
as well. If you have dry skin, an emollient cream moisturizer with SPF works
best. If you have a more normal skin type, a light lotion texture is perfect. If
you have normal to oily combination skin, a very light fluid moisturizer with
SPF with a soft matte finish is ideal.
PACKAGING MATTERS!
Packaging is important, and were going to repeat it frequently because
it bears repeating: Do not use any moisturizer, serum, booster, essence, or
any skincare product containing beneficial ingredients that comes packaged
in a jar!
No matter how great a products formula is, jar packaging is always a deal
breaker if the product contains air sensitive ingredients and as it turns out
most every antioxidant and skin-restoring ingredient that exists, doesnt
like air. Jar packaging exposes these potent beneficial, but inherently unsta-
ble, ingredients to light and air, causing them to break down and lose their
effectiveness.
Given the number and variety of products available today that come in
air-reducing or airless packaging, why waste your money on products whose
most beneficial ingredients will be less effective shortly after the first use?
EYE CREAMS
An eye cream is certainly an option if its a well-formulated product con-
taining ingredients that are helpful for skin around the eyes and if it does not
contain problematic ingredients. We know that sounds like a really basic idea,
a no-brainer, so to speak, but there are lots of eye creams that contain ingre-
dients that are not suitable for skin, whether around the eye area or anywhere
else on the face.
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont 43
For example, a serious concern about eye creams is that most of them do
not contain sun protection, which would make them pro-aging, not anti-ag-
ing (at least if you arent wearing them under a sunscreen). Unprotected sun
exposure is a major cause of so many skincare woes theyre almost too long
to list. Dont let your eye-area skin fall prey to the suns assault, it needs sun
protection just as much as rest of your face.
Speaking of sunscreens for the eye area, we strongly recommend using only
mineral-based sunscreen formulas around the eye area. In this case, mineral
means that they contain titanium dioxide and/or zinc oxide as the only active
ingredients. Both of these active ingredients are exceptionally gentle, which
is very important for the eye area. Its not that synthetic sunscreen ingredi-
ents arent effective, because they are, its just that they arent as gentle and
non-irritating as mineral-based sunscreen ingredients. This is true whether a
product is labeled eye cream or not.
All of the marketing hype about how eye creams are specially formulated
for the sensitive, thin skin around the eyes or that they get rid of puffy eyes,
dark circles, and lift or tighten sagging skin, is often not true. There are a few
ingredients that can be considered special for the eye area, but, for the most
part, the same essential ingredients that benefit facial skin also benefit eye-ar-
ea skin. Its absolutely okay to use a great facial moisturizer around the eye
area, which is why we often say that not everyone needs an eye cream (or
eye gel or eye serum).
The only reason you would not use your well-formulated facial moisturizer
around the eye area is if the skin around your eyes is different from the skin
on your face. For example, if the skin around your eyes is drier than the skin
on your face, youll need to use a more emollient moisturizer around the eyes.
This also might be true if your skin is oily. In this case, the gel or liquid
moisturizing formula that works great on the oily or combination skin on
your face would probably not be moisturizing enough for the eye area. But
again, it doesnt have to be labeled eye cream. If it makes you feel better to
use a special product for the eye area, thats fine; as long as its a great product,
we couldnt be happier.
The answer is that even the most brilliantly formulated eye creams, gels,
or serums can do only so much to improve puffy eyes. That doesnt mean you
wont get some benefit, its just that you probably wont reap the benefits to
the degree you were hoping for. As always, we approach problems like this
with research and facts so you have the information you need to get as close
as realistically possible to minimize the appearance of puffy eyes. Heres what
you need to know and do.
1. Sleep Position: Keeping your head flat while you sleep allows fluid to
collect in the skin around your eyes. Sleeping with your head slightly elevated
(making sure your neck is properly supported) can help limit fluid retention
around the eye area. Gentle fingertip massage around the eye area when you
wake up can help with this kind of swelling.
2. Diet: Alcohol consumption and a diet high in salt leads to water reten-
tion and increased puffiness around the eyes, which can linger throughout the
day. Moderate or limited intake of alcohol, sodium, and processed foods can
be incredibly helpful as can adding antioxidant-rich foods to your diet (e.g.,
fruits, vegetables, salmon); and stay hydrated. All of these can make a HUGE
difference!
3. Contact Lenses: Even under the best of circumstances, contact lenses
can cause your eyes to look tired and puffy. Ensure you are wearing the most
comfortable type of contacts for your vision correction. Follow your eye-care
providers exact recommendations for cleansing, wear, and disposal. Keeping
your eyes lubricated with the appropriate eye drops also is helpful.
4. Allergies: Exposure to allergens, either in the air or by rubbing your eyes
with allergen-laced fingers (touching plants or animals youre allergic to and
then touching your eyes transfer the allergen) can contribute to perpetual
puffiness. Its best to avoid touching your eyes, because rubbing not only pulls
at skin (which encourages loose skin), but also may make puffiness worse.
Also, you might talk to your physician about taking an antihistamine or using
anti-allergy eye drops to control your allergy symptoms, such as runny, itchy
eyes. Applying a cool (but not ice-cold) compress to your eyes also can help.
5. Dry Skin: Dryness around your eyes can cause sensitivity and a heavy
crepey appearance that exacerbates puffy eyes and also makes them look less
taut, lined and tired. An eye cream with skin-replenishing ingredients and
antioxidants will keep skin remarkably hydrated, softened, and smoothed. It
can make a world of difference and often makes an improvement thats visible
immediately.
6. Makeup Residue: Makeup, when left on overnight, or even a bit too long,
can aggravate skin, a sure way to cause puffy eyes! Be sure to meticulously re-
Which Skincare Products You Need and Which Ones You Dont 45
move your makeup every night. Start with a mild, fragrance-free cleanser, and
then remove the last traces of eye makeup (including mascara) with a gentle,
fragrance-free eye makeup remover (one thats also colorant-free is best for
the eye area). Remember: Do not rub or pull the skin around your eyes when
removing your makeup.
7. Exposure to Harsh Ingredients: Ingredients like menthol, camphor, al-
cohol, essential oils, fragrant plant extracts, or any kind of fragrance (natural
or synthetic) shouldnt come anywhere close to your eyes. If your makeup or
skincare products contain such ingredients, it can either cause eyes to be puffy
or make the situation worse. Stop using the product and switch to a non-irri-
tating alternative.
8. Sun Protection: You cant avoid the litany of problems unprotected sun
exposure causes for the eye area (not only for skin but also for the eye itself
just ask your ophthalmologist). UV light from the sun is your skins nemesis, so
dont let it get the upper hand. An eye cream or well-formulated moisturizer
with SPF 30 or greater is critical for combating every aspect of your eyes look-
ing older and getting puffiness under control. Sunscreen is the one product
that can reduce the risk of early signs of aging and keep them from getting
worse.
9. Sunglasses: Wearing sunglasses is important for many aspects of hav-
ing healthy eyes. In terms of keeping the skin around your eyes beautiful and
young, wearing sunglasses daily is one of our favorite anti-aging solutions for
eyes, including diminishing puffy eyes.
While the above guidelines for de-puffing your eyes is fundamental to get-
ting results it is important to realize where they wont be of help and thats
when your puffy eyes are a result of the fat pads around your eyes being pro-
nounced and noticeable through skin.
For some people, puffy eyes may just be their natural appearance, based
on traits they got from their parents. If you have excess fat pads under the
eye, skincare cant address that problembelieve us, we wish it could. If this
is your problem, the only way to deal with it is with help from a cosmetic der-
matologist or surgeon. Thats the call you would have to make, or otherwise,
you will just keep wasting your money on products that are incapable of ad-
dressing this issue.
While the solutions above may not be as dramatic as you had hoped (we
get it, we wish eye creams could magically get rid of all puffiness just as much
as you do), youre now armed with the truth and wont have to waste another
dime on products that dont actually work. And, for some of you, honing in on
46 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
the right cause and the right eye creams may be the perfect combination to
make all the difference.
dressing a variety of skincare concerns requires more than one bottle or tube
(of course never a jar) could provide, regardless of the products claims or cost.
A note on targeted solutions and boosters: You may be able to merely add
one targeted solution or booster to your daily routine, or you might need to
alternate its use with other targeted solution or booster products. If your skin-
care needs are complex and, therefore, involve several products, you might
need to experiment to discover what frequency of application works best for
you.
Now lets go over the products and the steps you need to get started!
STEP 1: CLEANSER
What is this for? A gentle, water-soluble, soap-free cleanser removes de-
bris, oil, impurities, and makeup.
Why do I need this? Rinsing with water is not enough to clean your face.
When your face is clean, it allows the other products you use to work even
better, morning and evening.
What results will I see? Using a well-formulated cleanser, your skin will
look and act healthier, feel smoother, and be ready to receive maximum bene-
fits from your other products.
STEP 2: TONER
What is this for? A well-formulated toner smooths, softens, and calms skin,
while removing the last traces of makeup. It also adds vital skin-replenishing
ingredients after cleansing.
Why do I need this? Toners with skin-replenishing ingredients hydrate
and nourish skins surface immediately after cleansing. They also help mini-
mize redness and dry patches.
What results will I see? A well-formulated toner will make your skin feel
softer and look smoother and will lessen redness. Daily use will give your skin
what it needs to perform in a younger, healthier way.
BHA can get through oil it can also exfoliate inside the pores and it can di-
minish redness. Both AHA and BHA are very effective at maintaining skins
hydration!
Why do I need this? For many reasons the skins surface loses its ability to
shed skin as it did when we were young, causing it to become thick and dull.
Oily or combination skin complicates this further. Exfoliating with a gentle,
non-abrasive, leave-on AHA or BHA exfoliant helps skin shed the way it did
when we were young by naturally sloughing the build-up of dead skin.
What results will I see? Overnight your skin can look radiant, smoother,
and younger (really)! Daily exfoliation with a well-formulated AHA or BHA
exfoliant will soften rough skin, unclog pores, lessen redness, diminish the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve an uneven skin tone.
If you have multiple concerns, an Advanced routine is the best way to go.
Such routines include targeted solutions and boosters you can add to your
Essential routine to resolve your specific skincare concerns.
Does the sunscreen you apply in the morning still work in the late after-
noon, following a day at the office or at school? The answer is yes, it still works,
but its effectiveness depends on how much time you spend outdoors because
the sunscreens active ingredients break down in response to direct exposure
to daylight, not in response to the passage of time during a single day.
On an average day (if youre in an office or otherwise indoors), your morn-
ing application of sunscreen is still going to provide sufficient UV protection
on your way home, assuming you applied a liberal amount of an SPF 30 (or
greater) product in the morning.
If you spend the majority of your day outdoors, then the recommendation
is to reapply every two hours, especially if youre perspiring or swimming. The
recommendation to reapply every two hours is based on the following:
Most people dont apply sunscreen liberally enough, and if you dont you
wont be getting the SPF protection rating shown on the label. If you do not
apply sunscreen liberally, then the apply-every-two-hours guideline makes
sense, however impractical it may seem. The thinking goes like this: If you
arent good about applying sunscreen liberally, then reapplying every two
hours after direct daylight exposure will add up to liberal application be-
cause of the extra layers of sunscreen youre putting on.
How much to apply: There are many measurements given to help you
figure out how much sunscreen to use, but, in reality, how much to use
depends completely on the area youre covering. What we suggest is to
smooth a layer of sunscreen over skin that will be exposed to the sun so you
can see it, and then gently massage it into skin and let it be absorbed. And,
yes, we understand that it may feel a bit unpleasant until its absorbed, but
the protection it affords is worth this temporary feeling. Dont forget your
chest, arms, and hands (or any other areas of exposed skin)!
How often to apply: We know this is repetitious, but were on a mission to
ensure the best skin of your life starts now, and this is the first rule to ensure
that happens. Aside from everyday use (no exceptions), a single application
each morning of a product rated SPF 30 or greater will keep you protected
for a normal workday (indoors), a walk to lunch, and the drive home. If you
spend more than three or four hours in direct sunlight during the day, its
a good idea to reapply your sunscreenand, yes, that means redoing your
makeup, which is why we advise touching up with a pressed powder rated
SPF 15 or greater. (Please dont shoot the messenger, were just giving you
the factsbut mostly what we want you to do is wear sunscreen, just that
step alone is better than nothing at all.)
60 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
Its also critical to understand that being inside doesnt mean your skin
is protected from sun exposure. If youre sitting next to a window, you wont
get sunburned because almost all windows protect you from UVB rays, the
rays that cause sunburn. However, unless the window has special UVA shield-
ing, your skin will NOT be protected from the suns UVA rays because these
rays absolutely get through windows. This is one factor you must take into
consideration when deciding when and how often to reapply your sunscreen.
Staying indoors during the day does not protect your skin if you are going to
be near windows.
When should you apply sunscreen? Every day, as the last step in your skin-
care routine before you apply your makeup. The vast majority of medical ex-
perts and skin researchers agree: Sunscreen is always, always, the final step in
your skincare routine. Any skincare product applied over a sunscreen dilutes
the sunscreen, lessening its effectiveness to some degree.
Do you need moisturizer AND sunscreen during the day? Typically, no.
Thats because the best daytime moisturizers that contain sunscreen are for-
mulated with additional skin-beneficial ingredients so your skin is covered for
all aspects of skincare.
Does sunscreen cause cancer? No, and theres no research proving other-
wise. Were shocked how some people overlook the huge amount of research
showing that regular use of sunscreen actually reduces the risk of skin cancer
and without a shred of doubt reduces the risk of early signs of aging.
Sun Damage and Sunscreen Questions Answered 61
Armed with this information, you can get a better handle on what you can
realistically expect from skincare products to make the biggest difference in
your skin. Youll also be able to more easily spot cosmetics claims that are be-
yond the capability of even the best (or most expensive) skincare products.
Moisturizer loaded with all the anti-aging ingredients weve been talking
about.
Boosters or serums containing concentrated amounts of specific or a
combination of unique ingredients that help you address your specific skin
concerns. These exceptional ingredients must be present in higher strengths,
in pure forms, or in special delivery systems to have the utmost positive impact
on skin. Because of these formulary considerations, these ingredients cant fit
in a traditional moisturizer or serum, which is why we created our boosters.
We love serums and boosters, so not surprisingly at Paulas Choice Skincare
weve formulated many of them so to be as perfectly honest, as we always strive
to be, we are obviously a bit biased, but we assure you for very good scientific
reasons. In particular wed like to point out our five RESIST Boosters because
the high concentration of the specific ingredient they contain is intriguing.
Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is a very important anti-aging ingredient. High
concentration of this vitamin has impressive benefits. Growing amounts of
research shows that in higher concentration it can significantly help mini-
66 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
mize pore size, diminish the appearance of wrinkles, and adjust an uneven
skin tone. When it is formulated in a light-as-water fluid consistency it can
work for all skin types and easily be layered with other products in your core
skin care routine.
Vitamin C in high concentrations is another supercharged anti-aging in-
gredient for all skin types and easily layered with other products and added to
any skincare routine. This potent pure concentration of vitamin C has been
shown to improve the feel of lost firmness, to brighten and increase radiance,
to impressively even skin tone, to improve marks on skin, and to smooth skin
texture.
Pure blends of concentrated non-fragrant plant oils can have skin-re-
plenishing, nourishing, and antioxidant properties for skin. They are a perfect
way to soothe skin, provide immediate relief for rough, tight, dry skin on the
face or around the eye area, and ease redness and sensitivity. It can be used all
over or as a spot solution over dehydrated areas of skin.
Hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that is nothing less than fascinating for
skin. Hyaluronic acid is a skin-replenishing ingredient found naturally in skin.
It is a miracle for reviving dehydrated skin, helping skin to appear plumper
and regain bounce, and dramatically improving skin texture. In fact, one gram
(0.03 ounces) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters (1 quart) of water!
Now that really is mind-blowing. Your skin may never be thirsty again.
Retinol is a superstar ingredient and because of this deserves its own
section.
RETINOL
While there are dozens of heroic skincare ingredients, retinol stands out
from the rest and is worthy of a brief discussion. Suffice it to say, a product
containing retinol, preferably a 1% concentration (though other concentra-
tions as small as 0.3% have research showing it can have remarkable results as
well), is a top-tier anti-aging ingredient. Of course, other brilliant ingredients
must be included along with the retinol, but its important to understand why
retinol is an ingredient deserving of your attention.
Retinol is another name for vitamin A and it works as a skin-restoring in-
gredient. Over time, it has gained much-deserved fame for what it can do for
skin, but along with that fame has come a lot of misleading information and
myths that have grown up around it. Because the research shows how helpful
retinol can be for anti-aging, we want to clear up some of those myths for you.
One of the major myths wed like to bust is the fear that retinol may be too
strong for your skin and cause problems. That is an exaggerated piece of skin-
Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 67
care nonsense. Skin can be sensitive to just about anything you put on it, from
plant extracts to sunscreen ingredients, vitamin C, and on and on. Retinol
is no exception; some people may find their skin doesnt like retinol. So, just
like any skincare ingredient or skincare product, even the best of the best, not
everyone can use everything.
The other myth about retinol is that it exfoliates skin and, therefore, you
dont need an AHA or BHA exfoliant, but thats not what retinol does for
skin. Retinol and AHAs or BHA work very differently to improve skin, but
they complement each other when paired in a complete skincare routine. Its
a misconception that retinol works by exfoliating skin, so we understand why
this issue has become confusing.
Retinol is an antioxidant and an important skin-restoring ingredient that
enhances every aspect of helping to turn skin around so it looks healthier,
smoother, and more vibrant. Retinol does this by impacting skin on many lev-
els, while AHAs and BHA affect only dead surface skin. The surface of skin is
where AHAs or BHA step in to help shed unhealthy, dead skin; retinol does
not do that.
Retinol may cause a flaking reaction for some people, but this side effect
(which is often temporary) isnt the same as exfoliation. Dont mistake flaking
for exfoliation. When healthy, normal exfoliation is taking place, you shouldnt
see it or feel it. If you do, it means you either have to reduce the frequency of
use of the retinol product or the frequency of use of the AHA or BHA exfo-
liant.
Keep in mind that just like your body never stops benefiting from (gets
used to) eating a healthy diet, nor does your skin stop benefiting from skin
revitalizing ingredients. Your skin craves and needs generous amounts of the
beneficial ingredients we talk about all the timeantioxidants, skin-replen-
ishing ingredients, and skin-restoring ingredientsto help it remain healthy.
These ingredients continue to work even after the inevitable effects of skin
aging start to show up, but without question, sooner is better than later!
Cleanser
RESIST Optimal Results Hydrating Cleanser ($19)
Toner
RESIST Advanced Replenishing Toner ($24)
AHA Exfoliants
RESIST Daily Smoothing Treatment with 5% AHA ($33)
RESIST Weekly Resurfacing Treatment with 10% AHA ($36)
Serum
RESIST Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizers
RESIST Intensive Repair Cream ($33)
RESIST Barrier Repair Moisturizer ($33)
Anti-Aging from the Outside In and Inside Out 69
Cleanser
RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($19)
Toner
RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($24)
BHA Exfoliants
RESIST Daily Pore-Refining Treatment 2% BHA ($33)
RESIST Weekly Retexturizing Foaming 4% BHA ($36)
Serum
RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($38)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizer
RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($33)
EATING RIGHT
Any discussion about keeping your skin young and rejuvenated must in-
clude your diet. Similar to how eating the right kinds of foods keeps your body
healthy, a healthy diet can help keep skin looking younger longer and looking
more radiant. The research about this is very clear; When you combine a bril-
liant skincare routine (including being sun smart) and a skin-friendly diet they
add up to achieving the best skin of your life!
Eating the right foods and minimizing how much you eat of the foods that
trigger aging helps slow signs of aging. Research has clearly demonstrated that
the following foods are the worst in terms of promoting skin aging. Really,
there is no debate that these foods are skin predators, and we all know we too
often choose to ignore it this information.
PRO-AGING FOODS
Sugar, especially refined sugars such as high-fructose corn syrup, but any
sugar (including honey and, yes, even agave nectar) causes a cascade of neg-
ative results for skin.
Trans-fat (any oil listed as partially hydrogenated qualifies), which in-
cludes margarine and most shortenings.
Processed or cured meats, including bacon, which contains nitrites and
nitrates, are not good for your body or your skin.
Red meat, choose the leanest cuts, avoid grilling with charcoal, and do not
cook it until its dark brown or black, which increases harmful chemicals
from being produced in the body.
Highly processed foods, which include most of the items on the menu at
fast-food restaurants and lots of the pre-packaged meals and snack foods in
72 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
An anti-aging diet is one of the more beautiful things you can do for your
health and your skin. Routinely eating the right foods can lead to young-
er-looking and healthier skin, improving dryness, creating a more radiant
complexion, diminishing bumps, and calming skin. This dietary approach,
combined with state-of-the-art skincare, really can give you the best skin of
your life!
C HAPTER 10
Managing Oily Skin
gredients. Toners that contain these ingredients can help skin feel soft, min-
imize oily skin, be more hydrated, diminish enlarged pores, and remove the
last traces of makeup, which can lead to clogged pores.
Gentle exfoliation with a completely non-abrasive leave-on BHA gel or
liquid is ideal for those with oily skin. Oily skin tends to have an extra build-
up of dead skin on the surface along with a thickened pore lining. Exfoliating
skins surface and inside the pore lining is the best way to remove that build-
up, shrink clogged pores and bumps, and make skin feel unbelievably smooth-
er and thats what BHA does best. A unique benefit of BHA is that it can also
calm skin.
Sun protection 365 days a year, rain or shine. Even if you have oily skin, a
sunscreen is essential for reducing the risk of early signs of aging, skin cancer,
and anything else about your skin you want to improve. If youve avoided sun-
screens because the ones youve tried felt too greasy or too occlusive, or if you
were afraid theyd clog pores or cause bumps, we provide product recommen-
dations at the end of this chapter that hopefully will change your impression
of sunscreens for good.
Apply a moisturizer at night, but dont use a traditional one. Just because
you have oily skin doesnt mean you should forgo giving your skin the high-
est quality ingredients to keep your skin healthy, hydrated, renewed, and re-
freshed with lessened redness. The way to give your skin these remarkably
nourishing ingredients without adding emollients that will feel greasy is to
use only extremely lightweight liquids, gels, or weightless serum formula-
tions. Youll get the remarkable benefits these ingredients provide without any
of the weight traditional moisturizing creams and lotions impart.
Use an oil-absorbing product during the day. Even with all our recom-
mendations, when you have oily skin, there are simply limitations to what
skincare products can do, which means youll probably still need to use an
oil-absorbing product during the day. These are products that contain ingre-
dients such as clay (and it doesnt have to be a special clay, despite the claims
made about miracle versions from volcanoes or rare earthmeaning dirt, sili-
ca, which is exceptionally absorbent), various powders, and starches.
Cleansers
SKIN BALANCING Oil-Reducing Cleanser ($18)
CALM Redness Relief Cleanser Normal to Oily Skin ($18)
76 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
Toners
SKIN BALANCING Pore-Reducing Toner ($21)
CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Oily Skin ($21)
BHA Exfoliants
SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid ($29)
SKIN PERFECTING Gel Exfoliant ($29)
CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27)
Serums
SKIN BALANCING Super Antioxidant Serum ($34)
CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizers
SKIN BALANCING Invisible Finish Moisture Gel ($29)
CALM Redness Relief Moisturizer for Normal to Oily Skin ($29)
Oil-Absorbing Products
SHINE STOPPER Instant Matte Finish ($23)
Cleansers
SKIN RECOVERY Softening Cream Cleanser ($18)
CALM Redness Relief Cleanser for Normal to Dry Skin ($18)
Toners
SKIN RECOVERY Enriched Calming Toner ($21)
CALM Redness Relief Toner for Normal to Dry Skin ($21)
AHA Exfoliants
SKIN PERFECTING 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant ($32)
CALM Redness Relief 1% BHA Lotion Exfoliant ($27)
Serums
SKIN RECOVERY Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($34)
CALM Redness Relief Repairing Serum ($34)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizer
SKIN RECOVERY Replenishing Moisturizer ($29)
Dry Skin 81
If you are using the wrong products, you might actually be causing your
combination skin. If you use the right products, you probably still will have
oily skin, but at least you wont have dry rough skin underneath.
ents. These are imperative to help calm skin, lessen oil production, and im-
prove dry areas. If you have very dry areas, you may need to apply a richer,
more emollient moisturizer just to those areas, being sure to blend away from
the oil-prone areas.
Cleanser
RESIST Perfectly Balanced Cleanser ($18)
Toner
RESIST Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner ($23)
BHA Exfoliant
SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant Gel (gel texture; $28)
Serum
RESIST Ultra-Light Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum ($36)
Booster
RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster ($45)
Eye Cream
RESIST Anti-Aging Eye Cream ($33)
Nighttime Moisturizer
RESIST Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator ($32)
86 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
UNDERSTANDING ACNE
Acne is one of the most troublesome and common skincare problems for
people around the world, and emotionally one of the most embarrassing. Al-
though most often associated with teenagers and the onset of puberty, you can
suffer from acne at any age. Even if you never had it when you were younger,
acne can still occur.
Most of us are familiar with acne to some degreeeven if we dont know
the specifics, we all know what it looks like. Acnes textbook definition de-
scribes it as a skin disorder occurring when hair follicles (every pore on your
face is actually part of a follicle) become plugged with dead skin and oil, caus-
ing skin to become aggravated, and finally erupting in a swollen angry bump
centered with a white fluid-filled sac. In short, you have a pimple (a word we
just hate).
That mixture of oil and dead skin creates an environment that is ripe for
blemishes. What we want to impress on you, first and foremost, is that you do
not want to make those angry blemishes more angry! So, even though it might
seem counterintuitive, what your skin needs is gentle soothing products and
to be handled tenderlythat is fundamental to getting acne under control.
THE BASICS
Keep skin clean, but dont overdo it. Clean skin is a good thing because
cleansing removes excess oil, debris, impurities, and makeup that contribute
to clogged pores and create the conditions for acne to occur. But, over-cleans-
ing, being too rough, or cleansing too often, especially if you use harsh cleans-
ers, scrubs, or cleansing brushes with stiff bristles will aggravate skin and make
it redder than it already isthat is not a good thing.
GENTLE cleansing is an absolute must. The best way to go is to cleanse
your face twice a day with an effective, but skin-softening, water-soluble
cleanser.
You also must stay away from bar soaps and bar cleansersthey can leave
a film or residue on your skin, which in turn can clog pores and diminish the
effectiveness of any anti-acne products you apply after cleansing. Bar soaps
and bar cleansers also are drying, and that doesnt promote healthy skin, and
healthy skin is always the goal when combating acnecompromised skin just
cant do that very well, if at all.
Avoid skincare and makeup products that contain harsh, skin-aggravat-
ing ingredients. Skin-aggravating products upset skin, increase redness, and,
therefore, make acne worse. Unfortunately, many skincare and makeup prod-
ucts, including many claiming to be for acne-prone skin, contain problematic
harsh, drying ingredients.
Drying out your skin will not help get rid of acne. Also on the do not use
list are mint (including menthol and peppermint), witch hazel, eucalyptus, or
citrus ingredients, as they will wreak havoc on your skin, too. Amazingly, these
ingredients show up in a shocking number of products claiming to help acne!
Be sure to remove all your makeup before going to bed. Makeup does not
cause acne, but falling asleep with your makeup on, or just not getting it all off
before bed, will aggravate your skin and inhibit skin from exfoliating, which
will lead to blocked pores, which in turn exacerbates the conditions (dryness,
rough skin, aggravated skin, and oil) that promote acne.
If you need to remove heavy makeup or just want to feel extra clean (with-
out harsh ingredients or scrubs), you can use a cleansing brush with soft bris-
tles (and we mean really soft) or a soft washcloth with a gentle water-soluble
cleanser. Please do not use abrasive scrubs or cleansing brushes with stiff bris-
tles because they tear skin and weaken it, which is never ever a good thing. You
need intact skin to help lessen breakouts.
After rinsing your face, follow with a gentle toner that contains a healthy
supply of antioxidants and skin-replenishing ingredients. This will not only
Avoid Acne and Breakouts (No Matter Your Age) 89
calm, nourish, and recharge your skin, it will also remove any last traces of
pore-clogging makeup.
Avoid overly emollient or thick moisturizers. These types of products not
only make oily skin feel oilier and greasy, but also can block pores. No matter
how you look at it, these products usually are a problem for someone strug-
gling with breakouts and oily skin.
Be careful to keep haircare products off your skin, especially emollient
conditioners and heavy styling products. If your hairstyle is such that your
hair touches your forehead or the sides of your face, traces of the products you
use to style your hair will also end up on your skin. Therefore, if you have acne-
prone skin, avoid using thick, waxy hairstyling products along the hairline be-
cause they can clog pores and lead to breakouts. Conditioners can also trigger
acne breakouts, so also avoid getting these on your face. If you have neck or
back acne, try rinsing the conditioner from your hair in a way that prevents
the conditioner from coming into contact with those areas.
Protect yourself from the sun. You might have heard that sunlight can
clear up acne breakouts, but there is no research indicating that sun expo-
sure (meaning getting a tan or, even worse, a sunburn) clears up acne. If any-
thing, unprotected sun exposure weakens skin and doesnt let it renew itself
to reveal healthy skin, and, as weve said time and time again, having healthy
skin is always the goal for any skin concern.
tration will be far more effective. Also, the formulas pH is critical, with a pH
of 34 being optimal. Sadly, many salicylic acid products for acne dont meet
these criteriathe concentration is too low and/or the pH is too highso
they end up not being very effective, if at all, on acne and clogged pores. Of
course, those that do meet the criteria are ideal options.
In addition, the salicylic acid (BHA) product you select much be completely
non-irritating so that the skin stays calm and the blemishes dont look angrier
than they already are. Fortunately, well-formulated salicylic acid products do
exist, from Paulas Choice Skincare as well as from other brands.
Benzoyl peroxide is considered the most effective over-the-counter choice
for acne. In concentrations of 2.5% to 5% benzoyl peroxide can go to work fast
to get acne under control.
There are benzoyl peroxide products with a 10% concentration, but they
are considered harsh on skin, and, therefore, are not the best option, especially
not the concentration you want to start with. We recommend starting with a
2.5% concentration and waiting a few weeks to see how your skin responds;
then, if youre not seeing the results you want, move to a 5% concentration.
If your acne doesnt respond to a 5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide,
you can try the 10% concentration, but monitor your skin carefully to make
sure youre not being too harsh.
If youve been using the type of gentle skincare routine that we emphati-
cally recommend, along with a BHA exfoliant and a benzoyl peroxidebased
product for two to three months, and you still arent seeing results, the next
step is to talk to your physician about prescription options. Unfortunately,
there are some stubborn forms of acne that just do not respond to BHA and
benzoyl peroxide products.
Important note: When struggling with acne, you must be consistent with
your anti-acne skincare routine. For many, breakouts are an ongoing problem,
not a one and donetype deal. Ongoing, consistent use of anti-acne solu-
tions and an overall healthy skincare routine are required to maintain results
and keep new breakouts from forming.
SKIN-LIGHTENING OPTIONS
The most effective skin-lightening products contain hydroquinone. Hy-
droquinone has been the active ingredient in over-the-counter skin-lighten-
ing products for 50+ years. It has been well-established as the most effective
ingredient for potentially fading uneven skin tone, brown or dark spots, and
for overall lightening skin. Despite this fact, it is also has a reputation for being
a controversial ingredient for skin lightening.
As always, we turn to the research to reveal why considering hydroquinone
for skin lightening is a logical approach, depending on what youre trying to
achieve. But, if you decide hydroquinone isnt the right ingredient for you,
there are alternatives, with some pretty good research behind them, for skin
brightening that you can consider.
SKIN-BRIGHTENING OPTIONS
Natural alternatives to hydroquinone include plant extracts, such as Mit-
racarpus scaber (madder) extract, Uva ursi (bearberry) extract, Morus bombycis
(mulberry), Morus alba (white mulberry), and Broussonetia papyrifera (paper
mulberry). These are indeed good options to consider as natural skin-bright-
ening ingredients. However, it is interesting to note that all of these extracts,
when absorbed into the skin, break down into hydroquinone, which explains
why they have a positive effect.
96 The Best Skin of Your Life Starts Here
Another natural alternative is arbutin, which also breaks down into hydro-
quinone when absorbed into skin. While these alternatives are certainly viable
options, if you are concerned about hydroquinone then this is important for
you to know.
Vitamin C (especially ascorbic acid) and niacinamide have an impressive
amount of research showing them to be effective for significantly improv-
ing an uneven skin tone and for brightening and smoothing skin. These are
skin-rescuing ingredients for many problems, but especially for uneven skin
tone.
The above-mentioned ingredients are valid considerations for those who
want to avoid hydroquinone. They also can be used with hydroquinone, a
combination that could provide even better results!