Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Bangkok EN PDF
Bangkok EN PDF
PHAYA THAI. DRINK IN YOUR HAND. H1. CONTACT. SUNRISE/SUNSET. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. DAO TAI. SAPAN HUA CHANG.
QUEEN SAOVABHA INSTITUTE SNAKE FARM. BOOKAZINE. WAT PHO. CULTURE. BY BOAT. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. SAM YAN.
CHINESE FOOD. BY TRAIN. WAT PHO. SOI PATPONG. ORIENTAL. CHAKPHET ROAD. EMPORIUM. RATCHADAPHISEK. ENTERTAINMENT. EMPIRE
TOWER. WAT INTHARAWIHAN. PHRA PIN KLAO BRIDGE. BOSSY CLUB. COOKING SCHOOLS. RIVER CITY. SATHORN (TAKSIN). MEMORIAL
BRIDGE. WANG LANG. GRAND PALACE. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. FLUIDS. PRASAN MIT. SLEEP. AIRPORTS. KINOKUNIYA. BAN BAT. KRUNG
THONBURI. GET IN. SOI ARI SAMPHAN. EVENTS. BANGLAMPHU MARKET. 113. EAT. OUT OF THE BLUE. 53. EKKAMAI. DRINK. HUALAMPHONG
TRAIN STATION. TOM YAM KUNG. MAJOR FINANCIAL CENTER. TEMPLES. MID-RANGE. SILOM. DON MUANG AIRPORT. WAT ARUN. WAT
TRAIMIT. DINNER CRUISES. MULTICULTURAL COMMUNITIES. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. WHAT TO DO IF YOU FALL FOR THE GEM SCAM.
INDIAN AND MIDDLE EASTERN. THA TIEN. KHLONG TOEY PORT. BUY. CHAO PHRAYA EXPRESS BOAT. CP TOWER. PARKS AND MONUMENTS.
COPE. GET OUT. GO-GO AND BEER BARS. CRIME. BY BOAT. LITERATURE. PRATUNAM. WAT MAI CHONG LOM. TRANSVESTITE SHOWS.
BANG KAPI. GET OUT. EXPRESS LINE. WAT RATCHANADDA. WAT ARUN. CHONG NONSI. NARAI PHAND. RATCHAPRAROP. BICYCLE TOURS.
SKYTRAIN. PANFA LEELARD. DRINK. GET IN. BY BOAT. WAT SRIBOONREUNG. ORIENTAL. BANYAN TREE. CHIT LOM. DUSIT PALACE. ASOK.
THA CHANG. UNDERSTAND. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. MBK CENTER. HOUSES OF WORSHIP. SHEBA'S. BUDGET. 15. PRATUNAM.
WAT PHRA KAEW. RAMKHAMHAENG. DUSIT PALACE. DUSIT PALACE. THA CHANG. WAT MAHA PHRUETTHARAM. GET OUT. YAOWARAT
AND PHAHURAT. SIAM CENTER. SIROCCO. QSNCC. HUALAMPHONG TRAIN STATION. WAT PHO. WAT ARUN. ROADSIDE STALLS. VTBD.
BANGKOK
DO. CENTRAL PLAINS. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. GRAND PALACE. ORANGE AIR-CON. CHARRN ISSARA. AIRPORT RAIL LINK. SOI
TWILIGHT. MCDONALD'S. EAT. SILOM LINE. BOBAE MARKET. MUAY THAI. SEE. SUKHUMVIT. PRATUNAM. KHAO SAN ROAD. BUY. KHAO SAN
ROAD. BALCONY. PRATUNAM. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. OTHER TEMPLES. KHLONG TOEY PORT. BANG SUE TRAIN STATION. BY
PUBLIC TRANSIT. EAT. SOI ARI. ANANTASAMAKHOM THRONE HALL. BY BUS. NANA ENTERTAINMENT PLAZA. SEE. ETHNIC CUISINE. GET
AROUND. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. TELEPHONE BAR. BUY. PHAHURAT ROAD. SHINAWATRA TOWER III. THAI. STREET MARKET. GET
IN. NGAM DUPHLI. BY PUBLIC TRANSIT. DO. ARI. LUMPHINI PARK. NOTE. THE MALL RAM. COFFEE WORLD. SPORTS BARS. BAAN DON
MOSQUE. DON MUANG TRAIN STATION. EASTERN BUS TERMINAL. ITALTHAI. STATE TOWER. BY SHIP. ROYAL CITY AVENUE. BUY. AIRPORT
RAIL LINK. VERTIGO AND MOON BAR. WIRELESS. RATCHADAMNOEN STADIUM. 59. CHAROEN KRUNG ROAD. THE MALL BANGKAPI. PHRA
RATCHA BANLANG PRADAP MUK. UOMASA. BTS SKYTRAIN. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. PHLOEN CHIT ROAD. ORIENT THAI. SPLURGE.
SUKHUMVIT LINE. ITF TOWER. TEMPLE OF THE RECLINING BUDDHA. SAEN SAEP EXPRESS BOAT. SOI ARAB. ZEN. AMARIN WINICHAI HALL.
CONTACT. WONGWIAN YAI STATION. EAT. SAPHAN TAKSIN. BANGLAMPHUBON POST OFFICE. OR TOR KOR. ASSUMPTION UNIVERSITY.
FURTHER DESTINATIONS. RACHAWONGSE. CHATUCHAK WEEKEND MARKET. MO CHIT. BED SUPPERCLUB. WONGWIAN YAI. THE QUEENS
BIRTHDAY CELEBRATION. RACHAWONGSE. SIAM CENTER. HOT SEASON. MAIL. SEE. METRO. RATTANAKOSIN. DRINK. 4. SIAM OCEAN
WORLD. EASTERN COURTYARD. PAK KHLONG TALAT. PHAHONYOTHIN. TRANSPORTATION. WAT MAI CHONGLOM. DJ STATION. FOOD
1 Bangkok. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Districts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
2
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
2
Get around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
2
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
2
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
2
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
2
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
2
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
2
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
2
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2
Stay safe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
2
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
2
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
2
1 Districts. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
2 Siam Square. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 29
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 29
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 30
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 30
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 31
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 32
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 33
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 34
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 34
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 35
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 35
2 Sukhumvit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 36
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 36
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 37
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 38
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 38
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 39
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 44
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 46
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 49
2 Silom. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 50
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 50
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 51
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 53
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 53
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 54
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 55
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 56
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 58
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 59
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 59
2 Rattanakosin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60
3
3
Table of contents
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 60
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 61
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 68
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 68
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 69
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 70
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 71
2 Khao San Road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 73
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 73
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 74
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Learn. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 76
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 77
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 77
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 79
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Stay safe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 82
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 83
2 Yaowarat and Phahurat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 84
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 84
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 85
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 88
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 88
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 90
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 91
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 91
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 92
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 92
2 Dusit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 93
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 93
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 94
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 96
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 96
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 97
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 98
2 Thonburi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
3
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
3
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
3
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
3
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
3
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
3
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
3
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
3
4
Table of contents
2 Pratunam. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 106
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 106
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 107
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 108
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 109
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 110
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 110
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 111
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 112
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 112
2 Phahonyothin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 113
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 114
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 115
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 115
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 116
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 117
2 Ratchadaphisek. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 118
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 119
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 120
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 120
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 121
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 122
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 123
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 123
2 Ramkhamhaeng. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 124
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 124
Get around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 125
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 125
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 126
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 126
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 127
Get out. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 128
2 Phayonyothin. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Understand. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 129
Get in. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 130
See. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 131
Do. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 131
Buy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Eat. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Drink. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
Sleep. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
3 132
5
Table of contents
Contact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
3
Cope. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
3
6
Bangkok Bangkok Districts
Understand
Bangkok
Bangkok
Districts
Bangkok is a huge and modern city humming with nightlife
and fervor. Administratively, it is split up into 50 districts
( khet), which are further split into 154 subdistricts (
khwaeng), but these are more often used in official business
and for addresses. Visitors will find the conceptual division be-
low of the main areas more useful for getting around.
History
"Bangkok" originally was a small village on the west bank of
the Chao Phraya river. After the fall of Ayutthaya in the late
18th century, King Taksin the Great turned that village into
Siam's new capital and renamed it Thonburi. In 1782, King Ra-
ma I moved the capital to the eastern bank of the river at
Rattanakosin; originally the site of a Chinese community, who
were moved outside of the new city walls to Yaowarat. King
Map of Bangkok Rama I named the city Krung Thep, as it is now known to Thais
Around Bangkok are the provinces of Nakhon Pathom to the and which in English is translates as the "City of Angels".
west, Nonthaburi to the northwest, Pathum Thani to the north, The full name "Krung thep mahanakhon
Chachoengsao to the east, Samut Prakan to the southeast and
amorn ratanakosin mahintharayutthaya mahadilok
Samut Sakhon to the southwest.
popnoparat ratchathani burirom udomratchanivetmahasathan
amornpiman avatarnsathit sakkathattiyavisnukarmprasit"
(
7
Bangkok Bangkok Understand
8
Bangkok Bangkok Get in
more navigable and more charming. Likewise, Pratunam and for as little as 10 baht. Locals get their water from "reverse os-
Chatuchak are much more than just markets; they're boroughs, mosis" purified water machines that fill up a bottle for less than
each with their own distinct character. 3 baht.
Climate Get in
According to the World Meteorological Organization, Bangkok
is the world's hottest city. Located just 14 degrees north of the By plane
Equator, Bangkok is sunny at any time of the year with temper-
atures over 30C (86F). Bangkok is served by two airports: Suvarnabhumi Airport and
Don Muang Airport . Suvarnabhumi Airport is used by all air-
The most pleasant time to visit is the cool season that lasts from lines in Thailand, except for domestic flights on Nok Air and Ori-
November till February. It is both the coolest and driest period ent Thai, which still use the old Don Muang Airport. Both these
the Emerald Buddha statue in Wat Phra Kaew even wears airports are about 30 kilometers (19 miles) from the city cen-
a scarf during this period! Don't think that's necessary though ter, so be prepared for a long ride to get into the city. Also al-
daytime temperatures still hover around 30C (86F), but it low at least three hours to connect between them, as they are
does cool down into the lower 20s as it gets dark (lower 70s far away from each other and there is heavy congestion on the
in Fahrenheit). March and April represent the hot season, and roads.
hot it is 35C (95F) on average, but don't be surprised to
see temperatures rising into the 40s C (around 100 F+). This Suvarnabhumi Airport
is the worst season to visit Bangkok, so plan in a lot of air-con-
ditioned shopping mall visits and get a hotel with a swimming
pool. Then there's the wet season that runs from May till Octo-
ber. Expect massive downpours resulting in floods all over the
city, and spells of thunder at times. It's not all bad though the
afternoon showers are actually a pleasant way to cool down
from the heat, and while they may last all day, usually they're
over within an hour. Extreme rainfall happens in September
and October, so these months are best avoided.
9
Bangkok Bangkok Get in
Transportation
There are plenty of ways to get into the city from Suvarnabhu-
mi Airport. Most people opt for the Airport Rail Link, by far the
fastest way to get into downtown, although taxis are also rea-
sonably priced by world standards.
A spartan gate lounge The slightly slower City Line is a commuter rail line that
stops at all stations. Trains leave every 15 minutes, and after
Located 30 kilometers (19 miles) to the east of Bangkok, space- Makkasan station it continues to Ratchaprarop and Phaya
age Suvarnabhumi Airport (, pronounced "soo- Thai stations. The ride to Phaya Thai takes about 30 min-
wanna-poom") (IATA: BKK) (ICAO: VTBS) started operations in utes from the airport and costs 45 baht. If you're heading
September 2006 and is now Bangkok's main airport and the downtown, there is a good connection to the BTS Skytrain at
busiest airport in Southeast Asia. It is used for almost all inter- Phaya Thai, though you will have to buy a new ticket. If Khao
national and domestic flights to Bangkok. There is only one ter- San Road is your final destination, you can hail taxis from
minal building, which covers both domestic and international the main road (around 70 baht), or hop aboard bus 15 (7
flights, but it is huge (by some measures the world's largest), so baht); this bus goes along Ratchadamnoen Klang Road and
allow time for getting around. There are two immigration sec- Chakrabongse Road serving both sides of Khao San Road.
tions, but processing time is lengthy at least 30 minutes.
Private Airport Express buses, including backpacker favorite
Facilities AE2 to Khao San Road, stopped running in June 2011. To take
a public bus or minibus, you must first take the free shuttle bus
Suvarnabhumi offers all facilities you would expect from a ma- ride from outside the second floor to the bus terminal that is
jor international airport. There's a transit hotel, ATMs, money a few kilometres away. Go to the first floor and walk to the far
exchange, restaurants, tax-free shops, an observation lounge right of the terminal. Exit the last door, and continue about 100
and even a "redemption booth", very reassuring for karmical- meters to the right, where you will see the sign for the "ordi-
ly challenged passengers. There are about 50 dining venues nary bus". These free shuttle buses are white in colour, and will
spread over the terminal building. The one that sounds most make a few other stops on the way to the terminal. The BMTA
interesting probably is "Panda Ready To Eat", but the cheapest public bus lines are:
place for a meal is Magic Food Point on level 1, near gate 8.
There are a few stores in the check-in area, including a conve- 549: Suvarnabhumi to Min Buri
nience store and a post office; however, the real shopping ex- 550: Suvarnabhumi to Bang Kapi
perience awaits travelers on the other side of immigration in 551: Suvarnabhumi to Victory Monument
the departure area, where the number of shops and duty free 552: Suvarnabhumi to On Nut
outlets leaves you wondering whether you are in an airport or 552A: Suvarnabhumi to Sam Rong
a mall. There is not much to see at the observation deck on the 553: Suvarnabhumi to Samut Prakan
seventh floor, since the steel structure of the roof blocks most 554: Suvarnabhumi to Don Muang Airport
of the view. 555: Suvarnabhumi to Rangsit (using the expressway)
10
Bangkok Bangkok Get in
556: Suvarnabhumi to Khao San Road and the Southern Bus more than 400 baht. These taxis usually appear highly modi-
Terminal fied and it is a good idea to avoid them, or record the license
557: Suvarnabhumi to Wongwien Yai plate number of the taxi.
558: Suvarnabhumi to Central Rama 2
So-called limousine taxis (which charge by distance, e.g.
559: Suvarnabhumi to Future Park Rangsit (using the outer
around 800 baht to Sukhumvit) can be reserved at the limou-
ring road)
sine hire counter on the second floor (just outside arrivals), and
These services take about one to two hours depending on traf- aggressive touts will try to entice you on board. If you allow
fic; frequency is usually every 20 minutes during daytime. At yourself to be waylaid by one of these taxi touts, they might
nighttime, it ranges from 20 minutes to 1 hour depending on quote you more than double the fare than an ordinary metered
the route. To give an example, the fare between Suvarnab- taxi would charge (900 baht instead of 400 baht, for example).
humi Airport and On Nut on 552 is 32 baht, and the journey You'd be silly even acknowledging their existence ignore
takes about 40 minutes in mid-afternoon traffic. There are al- and walk straight past them.
so privately-owned BMTA minibuses to many parts of Greater
Bangkok, such as Don Muang Airport, Bang Kapi, Rangsit and Accommodation near the airport
Samut Prakan. They charge a flat rate of 50 baht and go direct-
ly to the destination, so they are faster than public buses that There are plenty of hotels near Suvarnabhumi Airport, and
stop frequently along the way. huge construction projects are planned for the future. Day
room facilities for transit passengers are now available at
Long-distance first class bus services connect Suvarnabhumi the Miracle Grand Louis Tavern on floor 4, concourse G (tel.
Airport directly with Chachoengsao, Nong Khai, Pattaya, Ray- +66-2-134-6565-6, 2000 baht per 4-hour block, no reservations
ong, and Trat. accepted). Cheapskate travellers looking for a free quiet place
to doze undisturbed at night can use one of the benches on
the bottom floor of the terminal (which seem to be a popular
choice with tourists and locals).
Ordinary metered taxis are available on the first floor (one floor Don Muang Airport (IATA: DMK) (ICAO: VTBD) (or Don Mueang),
below arrivals). Follow the "public taxi" signs that lead to the about 30 kilometers north of downtown, was Bangkok's main
outside of the airport premises, queue up and state your desti- airport until 2006. The airport currently handles Nok Air and
nation at the desk (English is understood). You'll get a two-part Orient Thai domestic flights, but the former international ter-
slip with your destination written in Thai on it. The small part minal is now limited to charters and general aviation.
is for your driver, the large part is for you. This ticket is for com-
The public taxi stand is on the sidewalk outside the arrivals area
plaints and is how the system is enforced: hold on to it to help
(don't be fooled by all the taxi service booths in the main hall),
avoid arguments later. There is a 50-baht surcharge on top of
and is probably your best bet for getting into town it's your
the meter (not per passenger!), meaning that trips to the city
only option after 11PM. The same booth and slip system as
will cost 250 to 400 baht (plus possible expressway tolls of 45 at Suvarnabhumi Airport is used here. If the queue at the taxi
and 25 baht, depending on time). Make sure you have change stand is long or you need a more spacious car, you may want
ready to pass to the toll operators to avoid being overcharged to book a (so-called) limousine taxi from the desks in the ter-
for the tolls later on. The ride takes about 45 to 60 minutes de- minal. This will get you a slightly nicer car at about twice the
pending on traffic and location. No other surcharges apply, not price (500-600 baht). Ignore any touts outside and do not get
even for going back to the airport. If there is a huge taxi queue, into any car with white license plates, as these are not licensed
consider taking a limousine taxi, or take the free shuttle bus to to carry passengers.
the Public Transport Center, which has more taxis. Go straight
to the "official taxi stand" and wait there. It is rare, but there Across a covered overpass from the airport is Don Muang
have been reports of rigged meters that make the ride cost Train Station. Tickets to Hualamphong Train Station in central
11
Bangkok Bangkok Get in
Bangkok cost 5 baht at the ticket booth. While taking the train est, if not necessarily fastest, option is to take a taxi directly to
is the cheapest way to get from the airport to Bangkok, it is not or from the bus terminal.
for the faint-of-heart: schedules are erratic, the run-down pas-
Buying tickets here is reasonably easy; find a window with your
senger cars often have beggars roaming through them, and
destination written on it (in friendly Roman letters), pay the fare
are relatively empty late at night.
in big numbers on the same window, and you'll get a ticket on
There are also a number of public transport buses going by the the next available departure. Note that blue writing means 1st
airport, just follow the signs out toward the train station. Buses class, red means 2nd class (avoid on longer trips), and tickets
towards central Bangkok are at the airport's side of the road, so for destinations in Isaan are sold from the third floor. Ask the
don't cross the highway! These are useful bus lines: information desk on the first floor if you need help, or any of the
BKS staff, easily identifiable thanks to their natty white shirts
Air-conditioned bus 504 will take you to CentralWorld Plaza with gold buttons. Now just find the departure stall and you're
at Ratchaprasong intersection (close to Siam Square), as well on your way. If you have time to kill, there are two fairly decent
as to Lumphini Park and Silom, from where you can have ac- air-conditioned food courts at both ends of the main terminal
cess to the Skytrain. building, plus KFC, Dunkin' Donuts and lots of 7-Eleven outlets.
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 29 will take you to
Hualamphong Train Station passing by many places, includ- The Eastern Bus Terminal, +66-2-391-2504, also known as
ing Victory Monument and Siam Square. You can also get Ekkamai, is a relatively compact terminal right next to Ekka-
off at the Chatuchak Weekend Market, where you can switch mai BTS station in Sukhumvit. Ekkamai serves destinations in
onto the metro or Skytrain. Eastern Thailand, including Pattaya, Rayong, Ban Phe (for Ko
Air-conditioned bus 59 will take you to Sanam Luang in Rat- Samet), Chanthaburi and Trat.
tanakosin. This route is time-consuming as Rattanakosin is
Then there's the Southern Bus Terminal, +66-2-894-6122, also
far off from the airport.
known as Sai Tai Taling Chan (), that serves
Keep in mind that some of these buses don't complete the all destinations west and south of Bangkok from its some-
route. They are called "additional bus" (Thai: rot serm). what inconvenient location on the Thonburi side of the river.
These kind of buses have a red sign in front of them with the In December 2007, the terminal moved to a new, even more
final destination written on it (in Thai script of course). Check remote location, at Phutthamonthon Sai 1 Road in northern
this before taking the bus. You can ask the locals at the bus stop Thonburi. Long-distance buses leave from here to destinations
or a conductor on the bus. throughout Western Thailand (including Nakhon Pathom and
Kanchanaburi) and Southern Thailand (including Krabi, Phuket,
Surat Thani, Ko Samui, Ko Pha Ngan, Hat Yai, and many others).
By bus The new terminal is a fairly pleasant airport-like structure with
When buying tickets for buses out of Bangkok, it's best to skip air-conditioning, electronic departure monitors (in English), a
travel agents and their private buses, and get the tickets for few bank offices and a KFC. Unlike the rip-off operators at Khao
public buses directly at Bangkok's three public bus terminals. San Road, all buses from here are public, well-regulated, cheap
These buses are cheaper, safer, faster, more comfortable and and reasonably safe. Just buy your tickets at the numbered
won't scam you onto a clapped-out minibus halfway along the desk with your destination posted on it (almost always in Eng-
way or to a bedbug-infested hotel at the end. Each of these lish).
long haul bus terminals serve a different direction. They are
Getting to the terminal is a bit of headache, as public transport
purposefully located in off-central locations, so the long-haul
is limited. The easiest option is to take a metered taxi, but be
buses avoid the heavy traffic congestion in the center of the
sure the taxi knows where to go, or you may end up at the
city.
old Southern Bus Terminal (Sai Tai Mai). The new one is located
The largest, busiest, and most modern terminal is the North- in the same direction, but is 4.5 km further from the center. If
ern Bus Terminal, +66-2-936-2841(-3), also known as Mo Chit. you're going there in the evening, especially during workdays,
The upper floor serves the Isaan region in the northeast of Thai- be prepared to fight a serious traffic jam getting there can
land; the ground floor serves Northern Thailand, and shares take 30 minutes or a full hour from the city center. A taxi ride
some destinations with Ekkamai (including Pattaya, Rayong, from Khao San Road should end up around 120 baht in favor-
Chanthaburi and Trat). The bus terminal is a fair hike from BTS able traffic conditions. Ignore touts unlike what they might
station Mo Chit or MRT station Chatuchak Park. Motorbike taxis say, there really is no "faster" way when all the roads are con-
do the trip for a fixed 30 baht fare (bargaining is pointless), gested.
while tuk-tuks charge whatever they feel like when bargain-
From Victory Monument BTS station, the terminal can be
ing, remember that a real taxi with air-conditioning will cost
reached with pale orange air-conditioned bus 515 (16 baht).
you about 45 baht (assuming little traffic). You can also take
When approached by an onboard bus attendant ticketer, just
bus 77 and pay the 7-baht flat fare on board (this bus also goes
say "Sai Tai Taling Chan". After quite a ride, the large bus ter-
from the terminal via Victory Monument, Pratunam and Silom
minal will be on the left side about 9 km after crossing the
Road. If you have a considerable amount of luggage, the easi-
river (you won't miss it and probably will be told as well).
12
Bangkok Bangkok Get in
Getting there by bus actually does not take much more time If coming by train from the north or north-east, connecting to
than taxi (it's almost the same in the likely case of a traffic the metro at Bang Sue Train Station can shave the last half-
jam), but the ride is much cheaper, especially if alone. Bus hour off your train trip. This is not a very good place to board
556 from Suvarnabhumi Airport no longer goes from there, trains though, as there is practically no information or signage
but from Makkasan above ground electric train station. There in English. However, this situation will doubtlessly improve as
are also white minibuses (30 baht) from various points around more and more long-distance departures are switched to here
Bangkok, eg. from Ramkhamhaeng (near Rajamangala Nation- from Hualamphong Train Station to ease congestion in the in-
al Stadium). There are inexpensive shuttle buses and slightly ner city.
more expensive (but quicker loading and a bit faster) minibus-
The Thonburi Train Station, formerly known as the Bangkok
es to and from the Northern Bus Terminal as well.
Noi Station, is on the west side of the river in Thonburi. It is
the terminus for twice-daily trains to Kanchanaburi (via Nakhon
By train Pathom). Just to keep things confusing, the previous Thonburi
Train Station right next to the river (accessible by the Chao
Phraya Express Boat pier Railway Station) is now mothballed
and turned into a museum, but it's only 800 meters away from
the new station. Note that the weekend-only second class air-
conditioned "tourist" trains to Kanchanaburi and Nam Tok de-
part from Hualamphong Train Station.
Wongwien Yai Train Station only serves the rustic Mae Klong
commuter line to the fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains run
roughly hourly and the trip takes about one hour. The ride is
of little interest if you want to get there fast, but is an experi-
ence for rail fans and an attraction in itself, with a nice view on
the countryside's orchards, vegetable plantations and coconut
groves. Maha Chai is a nice seafood destination, and if you feel
Ticket counters at Hualamphong Train Station
like it, you can cross the Tha Chin river by ferry and continue by
rail to Samut Songkhram. The railway station is about 800 me-
The State Railway of Thailand , +66-2-222-0175, serves ters from the Skytrain station of the same name; to get there,
Bangkok with railway lines from all four directions of Thailand. take a metered taxi for 35-50 baht, or walk (using a map).
Hualamphong Train Station is the most important station, lo-
cated close to Yaowarat and served by its own MRT station. It is
a big and surprisingly convenient station built during the reign
By ship
of King Rama VI. It spared bombing in World War II at the re- Not many people come to Bangkok by boat, but there are some
quest of the Thai resistance movement. cruise ships that attend the city. Large ships must dock at Laem
Tickets for trains leaving the same or the next day can be Chabang Port, about 90 minutes southeast of Bangkok and
bought on the counters under the big screens. The Advance about 30 minutes north of Pattaya. A taxi service desk is avail-
Booking Office is located to the right of the platforms as you able on the wharf, but charges extortionate prices for a trip to
walk towards them and is quite well-organized. You can select Bangkok a whopping 2600 baht to charter a taxi (4 passen-
your seat/berth from a plan of the train, and payments by cred- gers), or about 5000 baht to charter a minibus (usually 11 pas-
it card are accepted. Also, finally you can book an e-ticket ; the senger seats). Slightly lower prices can be found by walking out
price is the same, however, the quota reserved for e-booking to the main road, about 4000 baht for a minibus, but even these
is limited, and there are only first and second class air-condi- rates are still almost double the typical rate in the opposite di-
tioned sleeper tickets available. rection. Better deals may be possible for round trips (even if re-
turning the following day).
A word of advice is to only listen to the people at the informa-
tion desk anyone else walking around offering to help you Frequent first and second class bus services directly connect
"find" a hotel or taxi is just a tout, even if they are wearing offi- Laem Chabang with Bangkok's Eastern Bus Terminal (Ekkamai);
cial-looking badges. Likewise, the second floor shops offering less frequent direct services run to the Northern Bus Terminal
"Tourist Information" are just agents in disguise. The taxi pick (Mo Chit). A first class air-conditioned bus (blue and white) to
up and drop off point is to the left of the platforms as you walk either will take 90 minutes or less; the fare is around 100 baht. A
towards them, and is generally chaotic at busy periods with quick way to get into downtown is to board an Ekkamai-bound
scant regard for any queue. The left luggage facility is at the op- bus and then disembark early at On Nut, where you can hop
posite end of the concourse, on the far right as you walk away onto the Skytrain. The bus will always stop here if a passenger
from the platforms. requests it.
13
Bangkok Bangkok Get around
Southbound buses en route to Pattaya can be boarded at the town and is especially convenient for visiting Siam Square.
traffic lights on Sukhumvit Road in Laem Chabang. These are There are two lines: the light green Sukhumvit Line travels
extremely frequent (at least 10 per hour), and charge less than along Sukhumvit Road, Siam Square and then follows Phaho-
50 baht. nyothin Road up north, where it terminates near at Mo Chit
(N8), near the Chatuchak Weekend Market. The dark green
Modest-sized ships may dock further upriver at Khlong Toey Silom Line starts in Thonburi, passes the Express Boat pier near
Port, close to Bangkok's city center. A modest terminal provides Saphan Taksin (S6), goes through the Silom area and ends at
processing for passengers (who may receive Thai customs and National Stadium (W1), right next to MBK Center. Both lines
immigration processing on-board), as well as offering "man- come together at Siam (CEN), where you can interchange be-
agers" who arrange tours and taxis. Reaching major hotels and tween them. Unfortunately, there is no station near Khao San
other points of interest is much cheaper than from Laem Cha- Road, but you can take the Express Boat from nearby Phra Athit
bang, but can vary according to the passenger's negotiating pier to Sathon (Taksin) pier, where you can switch onto the Sky-
skills. The facility is not close to the MRT stop of Khlong Toei, train.
the best way to get there is by metered taxi.
You must have 5 or 10 baht coins to purchase Skytrain tickets
By car from vending machines, so hold on to them. Fares range from
15 to 40 baht depending upon how many zones you are trav-
Getting into Bangkok by car is not a good idea, as you can easily eling. Consult the map (in English) near each ticket machine.
waste half a day waiting in traffic just to get to the other side of If you do not have coins, queue for change from the staff at
the city. Three major highways lead to Bangkok from all direc- the booth. If you are in town for several days (or going to make
tions of Thailand. The best way to get to Bangkok from North- several visits during the next 30 days), weigh your options and
ern Thailand is driving on Phahonyothin Road (Route 1), which consider a rechargeable stored-value card (from 100 baht, with
comes from Mae Sai near the Myanmarese border. Sukhumvit a 30 baht refundable deposit and a 30 baht non-refundable
Road (Route 3) comes from cities in Eastern Thailand, such as card cost), a "ride all you like" tourist pass (from 120 baht per
Trat, Pattaya and Chonburi. Phetkasem Road (Route 4) must be day) or a multiple ride pass of 20 trips or more to any zone
one of the longest roads in the world, as it comes all the way (15 trips cost 345 baht, 25 trips cost 550 baht; plus a 30 baht
from the Malaysian border serving Southern Thailand. refundable deposit for a rechargeable card that is valid for 5
years). They will certainly save you time, scrambling for coins,
and maybe even money. Check for information with the Eng-
lish speaking staff.
Get around
Metro
Bangkok is infamous for its congestion, but these days there
are ways around it: hop on the Skytrain (BTS) and metro in the The MRT ( rot fai tai din, pronounced em-ar-tee)
city center, or use boats to navigate the city's rivers and canals. finally opened in July 2004. For now there is only one line, the
Blue Line that connects the central Hualamphong Train Sta-
tion (1) to the northern Bang Sue Train Station (18), running
By public transit through Silom, Sukhumvit, Ratchadaphisek and area around
Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phahonyothin. There are in-
terchanges to the Skytrain at Si Lom (3), Sukhumvit (7) and
Chatuchak Park (16) stations.
14
Bangkok Bangkok Get around
Airport Rail Link of Rattanakosin's major attractions including the Grand Palace
(at Tha Chang) and Wat Pho (at Tha Tien). The closest pier to
Finally opened in August 2010, Bangkok's newest pub- Khao San Road is Phra Arthit. Enter the express boat at the nu-
lic transportation system is the Airport Rail Link merous piers and pay for the trip at ticket collector, who will
() . The Express Line is approach you bearing a long metal cylinder. At some bigger
only useful for getting into the city, as it starts at the airport, piers you can buy the ticket before boarding. When the met-
skips all stations and brings you directly to Makkasan (City al cylinder lady approaches you, just show her the ticket you
Air Terminal). This ride takes about 15 minutes and costs 150 bought on the pier.
baht. Trains run every 15 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From
Makkasan, you can continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi The different boat lines are indicated by the colors of the flags
MRT station, but it is quite a hike as the pedestrian bridge is still at the top of the boat. These flags can be confusing; don't think
in construction. the yellow King's flag corresponds to the yellow line flag! There
is a basic "no flag" line (9, 11 or 13 baht) that goes along all the
If you want to use it to get around the city, take the City Line piers, but it only runs during rush hours (Mon-Fri 06:20-08:05
as it is cheaper and it stops at all stations. Many Thais in East- and 15:00-17:30) and is fairly slow. It is better to take the faster
ern Bangkok use it to commute to the city center. It starts yellow (19 or 28 baht, Mon-Fri 06:15-08:10 and 15:30-18:05)
at Suvarnabhumi Airport and terminates at Phaya Thai, with and orange (14 baht, every day 06:00-19:00) flag lines, but you
some interesting stops in between (such as Ramkhamhaeng have to be sure where you're going as they don't stop every-
and Ratchaprarop for Pratunam). The full ride takes about 30 where. The yellow line is the fastest, but is best avoided as it
minutes and sets you back 40 baht. At Phaya Thai, you can skips many popular attractions (including Khao San Road, the
transfer onto the Skytrain and continue your way. Grand Palace and Wat Pho). The orange line is your best bet, as
it covers the major tourist areas and is fairly quick too.
By boat In addition to the workaday express boat, there is also a blue
flagged Tourist Boat which stops at a different subset of piers,
Chao Phraya Express Boat
offers commentary in English and charges a flat 150 baht for a
day pass. Single ride tickets are 25 baht. The boats are slightly
more comfortable and may be worth considering if you want
to cruise up and down the most important tourist sights. They
only operate once per 30 minutes and stop running by 3PM.
Many piers are also served by cross-river ferries. These are par-
ticularly useful for reaching Wat Arun or the many piers at the
Thonburi side of the river. Cross-river ferries run around every
10 minutes and only cost 3 baht pay at the kiosk on the pier
and then walk through the turnstile.
15
Bangkok Bangkok Get around
The Saen Saep Express Boat serves the long Saen Saeb canal, By taxi
one of the remaining canals (khlong) that used to flow through
Bangkok. Mostly used by locals to commute to work, the ser- Metered taxi
vice is cheap and you get to see the 'backside' of the neighbor-
hoods, so to speak. Also, It is immune to Bangkok's notorious Metered taxis are a quick and comfortable way to get around
traffic jams. The total distance is 18 kilometers, and the service town, at least if the traffic is flowing your way, but be warned
operates from 5:30AM till 8:30PM. that Bangkok taxi drivers are notorious for finding ways to run
up the fare; insist that the meter is used, and if the driver claims
They are comparatively safe just watch your step when that your destination is closed, that he doesn't know where it
boarding and disembarking as they don't stop at the pier for is, or if he tries to take you elsewhere, just get out of the taxi.
long and do not let the dirty water get into your eyes. To pre- All taxis are now metered and air-conditioned: the hailing fee
vent splashes, the boats are equipped with little curtains that is 35 baht and most trips within downtown cost less than 100
you can raise by pulling on a string, but they have to be low- baht. There are no surcharges (except from the airport), even at
ered at every stop so people can clamber on board. Pay the night; don't believe drivers who try to tell you otherwise. A red
fare (14-22 baht) to the fearless helmet-wearing ticket collec- sign on the front window, if lit, means that the taxi is available.
tors who clamber around on the outside of the boat, ducking at
bridges, as it barrels down the canal. Press the green 'bell' but- When the meter is switched on you will see a red '35' some-
ton if you want to get off at the next pier, else the boat might where on the dashboard or between the driver and you. Be
just skip it. The piers now even have (tiny) signs in English, with sure to check for this at the start of the ride, as many drivers will
the exception of The Mall Bangkapi pier, and it's not obvious "forget" to start the meter in order to overcharge you at the end
that you're at the mall from the canal boat! of your trip. Most will start the meter when asked politely to
do so (meter na khrap if you're male and meter na kha if you're
The canal runs parallel to Phetchaburi Road, and provides the female); if the driver refuses to use the meter after a couple of
easiest access from the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin (and attempts, simply exit the taxi.
nearby Khao San Road) to Siam Square and Pratunam. This line
is aptly called the Golden Mount Line and runs from Panfa Lee- In some cases, late at night and especially near major tourist
lard pier to Pratunam pier in downtown. If you want to contin- districts like Khao San or Patpong, you will need to walk a block
ue your journey beyond Pratunam, passengers have to change away to catch a honest driver. The effort can save you as much
boats there. The NIDA Line starts at Pratunam and heads east as 150 baht. This is often also the case for taxis that park all day
to Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. Hold on to your ticket. in front of your hotel. There are only two reasons that they are
there: to take you places where they can get their commissions
River taxi (jewelry stores, tailors, massage parlors, etc.) and to overcharge
you by not using the meter.
16
Bangkok Bangkok Get around
highly variable quality and occasionally have rigged meters. All tourist spots, insist on your destination or get out. If you're an
other colors belong to large taxi companies, which usually en- all-male party, tuk-tuk drivers sometimes will just ignore your
force their standards better. destination completely and start driving you to some brothel
("beautiful girls"). Insist continually and forcefully on going on-
On some routes, the driver will ask if he should use the tollway ly to your destination; or take a metered taxi instead.
this will usually save a lot of time. You have to pay the cost
at the toll booth (not in advance and not at the end of the jour- A songthaew is a less-heralded, less-colourful and less-touristy
ney). Watch how much the driver really pays, as many try to version of the tuk-tuk that usually serves the back sois in resi-
keep the change. dential neighborhoods. They usually have four wheels instead
of three, two benches instead of one, run on gasoline instead of
When getting out, try to have small bills (100 baht or less) or LPG and resemble a tiny truck. The maids and locals tend to use
expect problems with change. Tips are not necessary, but are them to return home from the market with loads of groceries,
certainly welcome if you're happy about the service; most local or for quick trips if they're available. Negotiate before you get
passengers will round up or leave any coin change as tip. in, but don't expect to go much beyond the edge of that par-
ticular neighborhood.
Tuk-tuk
Motorbike taxi
When traffic slows to a crawl and there are no mass-tran-
sit alternatives for your destination, by far the fastest mode
of transport is a motorbike taxi ( moto-
sai lapjang). No, those guys in the pink smocks aren't biker
gangs; they're motosai cabbies. They typically wear colorful flu-
orescent yellow-orange vests and wait for passengers at busy
places. Prices are negotiable before you ride.
For the adrenaline junkie, a wild motosai ride can provide a fan-
tastic rush. Imagine weaving through rows of stopped vehicles
at 50 km/h with mere centimetres to spare on each side, dodg-
Tuk-tuks on the prowl
ing pedestrians, other motorbikes, tuk-tuks, stray dogs and the
Finally, what would Bangkok be without the much-loathed, occasional elephant while the driver blithely ignores all traffic
much-loved tuk-tuks? You'll know them when you hear them, laws and even some laws of physics. Now do the same while
and you'll hate them when you smell them these three- facing backwards on the bike and balancing a large television
wheeled contraptions blaze around Bangkok leaving a black on your lap, and then you can qualify as a local though you
cloud of smog in their wake. For anything more than a 5-10 might die in the process. Imagine your loved ones arranging to
minute jaunt or just the experience, they really are not worth ship your dead body home from Bangkok because you took a
the price and, if you let them get away with it, the price will dangerous risk you were warned not to. Motorcycle accidents
usually be 4 or 5 times what it should be anyway (which, for are brutally common, and transportation of this sort is inher-
Thais, is around 30 percent less than the equivalent metered ently hazardous. Be aware of the risk before using motorcycle
taxi fare). taxis. Many tourists and Thai alike recommend avoiding them
except as a last resort. Under no circumstances ride without a
On the other hand, you can sometimes ride for free if you helmet.
agree to visit touristy clothing or jewelry shops (which give the
tuk-tuk driver gas coupons and commissions for bringing cus- The overwhelming majority of motorcycle taxis do not travel
tomers). The shops' salesmen are pushy, and try to scam you long distances, but simply shuttle up and down long sois (side-
with bad quality suits or "gems" that in fact are worthless pieces streets) not serviced by other transport for a fixed 5-20 baht
of cut glass. But usually you are free to leave after five to ten fare. These are marginally less dangerous, especially if you hap-
minutes of browsing. Visitors should beware though, some- pen to travel with the flow on a one-way street.
times one stop can turn in to three, and your tuk-tuk driver may The law requires that both driver and passenger must wear a
not be interested in taking you where you need to go once he helmet. It is the driver's responsibility to provide you with one,
has his gas coupons. Also, with Bangkok's densely congested so if you are stopped by police, any fine is also the driver's re-
traffic it is sure to waste hours of your time, if not the whole day. sponsibility. This is worth bearing in mind when you hire a mo-
If you still want to try the tuk-tuk, always hail a moving tuk-tuk torbike or moped. Make sure that if there are two of you, the
from the main road. At tourist spots, these tuk-tuk drivers lie in hirer provides two helmets instead of one. When riding, keep
waiting to disrupt your travels plans. Always agree on a price a firm grasp on the seat handle and watch out for your knees.
before entering the tuk-tuk. Also be crystal clear about your in-
tended destination. If they claim that your intended destina-
tion is closed for the day, and offer to take you to other nearby
17
Bangkok Bangkok See
18
Bangkok Bangkok Do
showing traditional Thai-style residences. Most visitors take a Kachao), a semi-island across the river from Bangkok with few
tour through Jim Thompson's House, the CIA-operative's man- cars or buildings, or through the backstreets of Chinatown. It
sion assembled by combining six traditional Thai-style hous- sounds strange but a cycle tour in Bangkok really is the best
es, conveniently located near Siam Square. Ban Kamthieng in way to discover the city up close.
Sukhumvit, M.R. Kukrit's Heritage Home in Silom and the Suan
Pakkad Palace in Phahonyothin are not quite as impressive, but Co van Kessel, +66-2-322-9481, . Co van Kessel offers many
still make for a nice experience. Rattanakosin's museums are cycling tours through Bangkok, taking in Chinatown, the
mostly dedicated to history and culture, including the National canals of Thonburi, the "Bangkok Jungle" and many other
Museum (about Thai history and archaeological remains), the places in between. 950-1950 baht.
Museum of Siam and the King Prajadhipok Museum. Bangkok Grasshopper Adventures, 57 Ratchadamnoen Klang
has a small, but vocal art community, and you might want to Rd (near the Democracy Monument, right around
visit the National Gallery or The Queen's Gallery, or one of its the corner from Khao San Rd), +66-2-280-0832
numerous smaller galleries spread over the city. Siam Square ([email protected]), . Grasshopper Ad-
features the recently opened Bangkok Art and Culture Centre ventures operates tours through the historic Rattanakosin
which has temporary art exhibitions throughout year. district of Bangkok, to the outskirts of Bangkok and one that
Lumphini Park in Silom is the largest park in central Bangkok, takes place at night. Tours regularly book out so make a
and a good way to escape the fumes. Backpackers around Khao reservation in advance. 1000-1600 baht.
San Road can head for Santichaiprakarn Park, a small but fun Recreational Bangkok Biking, Baan Sri Kung, 350/127 Rama
park along the Chao Phraya River with a breezy atmosphere, III Soi 71, +66-2-285-3955, . The owner Andre Breuer oper-
usually with locals juggling or practicing tricks. It is built around ates cycle tours with a maximum of 8 participants. The tour
the 18th-century Phra Sumen Fort with a nice view on the mod- passes by a local temple, a Burmese-style chedi, a school,
ern Rama VIII cable-stayed bridge. Zoos and animal farms are luxuious and poor neighboorhoods and a Muay Thai school;
some of the more popular tourist attractions in Bangkok, but the "Bangkok Jungle" is also included. Book in advance as
before visiting, please be aware that animal welfare in Thai- availability is limited. 1000 baht.
land is not strictly regulated. Poor living conditions of the ani-
mals and inadequate veterinary care are examples of the sad SpiceRoads, +66-2-712-5303, . 1000-2500 baht. They of-
mistreatment of the animal population. You can't go wrong at fer many one-day and multi-day cycling trips in and around
the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm in Silom, as the staff Bangkok. There are trips to the Bangkok Jungle, Ko Kret,
takes good care of their snakes and they have a job of inform- Yaowarat and Thonburi.
ing the public about the risks associated with them. Another
Thailand Green Ride, +66-2-888-9637, . These are "green
nice family attraction is Siam Ocean World in Siam Square. It
rides", half-day, one-day and home stay overnight cycling
has a steep price tag, but at least you get to see the largest
trips through the green countryside of Bangkok.
aquarium in Southeast Asia.
Canal tours
Do Another great way to see the Chao Phraya river and the origi-
nal canals of the city is by canal tour. Most of these special boat
trips start at the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya and head
Bicycle tours through the backwaters of Thonburi, taking in Wat Arun, the
Go cycling! It may sound crazy, as cycling is deadly dangerous Royal Barges National Museum and a floating market. More in-
on the main roads, but it certainly is not if you know where to formation about these canal tours can be found in the Thon-
go. Away from the main roads there is a vast system of small buri article. At 1000 baht or more, they are quite expensive
streets and alleys. Cyclists are treated as pedestrians, so you though; a cheaper and also fun activity is to take the public ex-
can use your bicycle to explore parks, temple complexes, mar- press boat along the Chao Phraya river. You can get off any-
kets and the more quiet residential areas of eastern Bangkok. where between Thewet and Sathon (Taksin) piers as there are
In more crowded places you can cycle on the sidewalk. Explor- many things to see in all those neighborhoods. You can even
ing the town by bicycle has all the advantages of going by go all the way north to Nonthaburi in the morning, enjoy the
foot, combined with a much greater action radius and a cool- afternoon in this laid-back traditional urban town and take the
ing breeze. boat back around rush hour.
19
Bangkok Bangkok Learn
There are two venues in Bangkok to see this type of sport in ac- Entertainment
tion, Lumpinee Boxing Stadium in Silom and Ratchadamnoen
Stadium in Rattanakosin. Sessions can take the whole evening, Bangkok is a great place to go to the movies. Compared to the
and the more interesting fights tend to happen in the end, so West, the cost of a ticket is a complete bargain at around 120
it's not that bad if you come slightly too late. The playing of tra- baht. Most cinemas have world-class standards and show the
ditional music during the bouts is enjoyable as well. A downer latest Hollywood and Thai releases. Watching Thai movies is a
is the steep 1000 to 2000 baht entry fee for foreigners, while fun night out, as pretty much all of them have English subti-
Thais chip in for 100 baht or less. tles. They are up to par with the latest technological innova-
tions in the film industry, so expect to wear 3D glasses for some
Cultural performances of the latest Hollywood releases, or visit the IMAX Theater in
Siam Paragon.
There are many cultural performances in Bangkok that
For non-mainstream cinema, House RCA (in Royal City Avenue)
shows traditional Thai culture and dance. Siam Niramit in
and APEX (in Siam Square) offer art films with English subtitles.
Ratchadaphisek is a truly spectacular performance where more
than 150 performers depict the history of each region of Thai- For other means of entertainment, Ratchadaphisek is a new-
land. ly created entertainment paradise. Its bowling centers are of
a superb standard with some of them resembling the inside
Of a completely different order are Bangkok's famous transves-
of a nightclub. Dance while you play in style. Private karaoke
tite shows. These cabarets generally take about two hours, and
lounges are usually connected to these bowling centers and
besides singing, dancing, glamour and costumes, usually it also
are available at major hotels. There's even an ice skating rink
has some comedy thrown in. The most famous show is Calyp-
and a top-class go-go kart track. As Ratchadaphisek is mostly
so Cabaret in Ratchathewi that has two sessions every evening
aimed at the locals, you might want to go to similar venues in
at the Asia Hotel. Always book these shows a couple of days in
Siam Square or Sukhumvit.
advance.
Horse Races are held on Sundays at two alternate turf clubs,
Pampering the Royal Turf Club of Thailand in Dusit and the Royal Bangkok
Sports Club on Henri Dunant Road (near Siam Square).
Spas, traditionally, were towns where public baths, hospitals
or hotels were built on top of mineral springs so that people
could come and make use of the healing properties found in
Festivals
the water and its mud for medical purposes. These days, a spa All of Thailand's major festivals are celebrated in Bangkok.
doesnt have to be a town built on natural thermal springs. It
can be a place anywhere that anyone can go to, to relax in tran-
quil surroundings with a variety of treatment administered to
recontour and rejuvenate the body and mind. Learn
All self-respecting luxury hotels in Bangkok have a spa that at
least offers a traditional Thai massage. Prices are exorbitant,
but they offer some of the best treatments in Bangkok. Particu-
larly well-regarded spas at exceptionally high rates are given at
the splurge hotels in Silom. Independent spas offer much the
same experience, but offer much more competitive rates. Fig-
ure around 1000 baht per hour for most treatments.
20
Bangkok Bangkok Buy
Meditation, the essence of 'pure' Buddhism, can be practiced In the weekends, the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phaho-
at any temple in Thailand. In Bangkok however, there are also nyothin is a must as its 8000 stalls together form the largest
well-known centers that cater specifically to foreigners wish- market in Southeast Asia. Shoppers can buy just about every-
ing to learn and practice. The International Buddhist Medita- thing from clothing to potted plants and everything in be-
tion Centre inside Wat Mahathat in Rattanakosin provides free tween it is a paradise for browsers and bargain-hunters alike.
meditation classes three times a day. If you can speak and A weekday alternative is Pratunam, one of the city's renowned
understand the Thai language well enough, you may wish to garment markets. Clothes shopping here goes on wholesale,
go on your own retreat at a quiet temple on the outskirts of and you're even cheaper off if you buy in bulk. At Pantip Plaza
Bangkok. To pay for your stay, it is appreciated that you assist you can buy computer-related stuff from branded laptops to
the resident monks on their morning alms rounds. pirated DVDs.
The Wat Pho temple in Rattanakosin offers well-regarded Thai Yaowarat and Phahurat give a more authentic experience, al-
massage courses. While aimed squarely at tourists, this is not though many stores sell the cheap teen accessories found else-
necessarily a bad thing, as they're used to conducting classes in where too. Just sitting at a plastic chair and watching daily
English. An alternative is the Union of Thai Traditional Medicine commerce evolve is a fun activity in itself. Phahurat is the best
Society in Yaowarat and Phahurat. destination for fabrics, available in all colors and sizes. Pak Kh-
long Talat is a surprisingly fun wholesale market for all kinds of
cut flowers and vegetables. If you're a morning person, visit it
around 3AM, when new flowers from upcountry arrive and the
Buy marketplace is beautifully illuminated.
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles Thonburi, being one of the least developed areas of Bangkok,
is the best place to experience what the city used to be like. A
must is the weekends-only Taling Chan Floating Market, which
feels at least somewhat authentic as it blends a rural market
with the canal side way of life. Wang Lang Market is an undis-
covered gem with strictly local prices. The other side of the riv-
er, Rattanakosin, has everything a good Buddhist would need,
be it amulets, monk bowls or human-sized Buddha statues.
21
Bangkok Bangkok Eat
en pieces and cucumber. Side sauces are spicy and go well with
the bland chicken and rice. You can sometimes add optional
Eat liver and gizzard if that is your taste. If you like sweets, try to
find a kanom roti () street vendor. The crepe-like dessert
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles is filled with sweetened condensed milk, lots of sugar, and can
also have bananas inside. Also fun to watch them being made.
Bangkok boasts a stunning 50,000 places to eat; not only thou-
sands of Thai restaurants, but a wide selection of world-class
international cuisine too. Prices are generally high by Thai stan-
dards, but cheap by international standards; a good meal is
unlikely to cost more than 300 baht, although there are a few
restaurants (primarily in hotels) where you can easily spend 10
times this.
Don't miss out on a cold ice cream in hot Bangkok. Dairy Queen Insects ready for a snack?
and Swensen's has booths in many malls and shopping cen-
tres. Their ice creams are tasty, cheap and safe for westerners Khao San Road is known for its carts selling bugs yes, in-
to eat. sects. They are deep fried, nutritious and quite tasty with the
soy sauce that is sprayed on them. Types available: scorpions,
water beetles, grasshoppers, crickets, bamboo larvae, meal-
Street food worms, and some more seasonal specialties. Break off the legs
from grasshoppers and crickets or they will get stuck in your
While not particularly high class, street food is among the most
throat.
delicious food and can be found all over Bangkok wherever
you're staying, you rarely have to walk more than 100 meters Around the corner from Khao San Rd in front of the department
for a cart of street restaurant. Many of street vendors sell satay store and supermarkets the street is lined with a myriad stalls
() with hot sauce for 5 to 10 baht a piece. selling all manner of tempting delicacies: sweets and crackers,
coconut jellies, candied fruits, fish balls on skewers,tamarind
One of Thailand's national dishes you can try is pad thai
sweets dipped in chilli and sugar and a host of other delights.
(), stir-fried rice noodles with eggs, fish sauce, tamarind
juice and red chilli pepper. It can be prepared for you on one
of the ubiquitous carts, or in a street restaurant for about 50 Ethnic cuisine
baht. You can order it with chicken (kai) or shrimps (kung).
Thai dishes can roughly be categorized into central, north-
Another one of Thailand's national dishes you should try is
ern, northeastern and southern cuisine. What's so great about
tom yam kung (), a sour soup with prawns, lemon-
Bangkok is that all these cuisines are present. Isaan food (from
grass and galangal beware, as it is very spicy! Khao man kai
the northeast of Thailand) is a backpacker favorite; generally
() is another popular street food. You can identify
street restaurants serve on plenty of small plates that can be
it at stalls displaying boiled chicken. Served with a bowl of fra-
shared. Som tam () is a salad made from shredded and
grant chicken soup is a mound of rice topped with sliced chick-
22
Bangkok Bangkok Drink
pounded raw papaya again, it is spicy, but oh so delicious. searches, though these mostly occur at places that cater for hi-
If you want to dine the Isaan way, also order some khao niew society Thais.
(sticky rice), kai yang (grilled chicken) and moo yang (grilled
One of Bangkok's main party districts is Silom, home not only to
pork). Isaan food is very spicy; say mai pet or pet nit noy to tone
perhaps the world's most famous go-go bar strip Patpong, but
it down. Southern Thai cuisine is also worth it; many of them
plenty of more legitimate establishments catering to all tastes.
have congregated around Wang Lang in Thonburi. At least try
For a drink with a view, the open-air rooftop bars of Vertigo and
the massaman curry (), it's delicious.
Sirocco are particularly impressive. A large number of superhip
The place to go to for Chinese food is Yaowarat. It has a range of and more expensive bars and nightclubs can be found in the
street stalls and cheap restaurants selling expensive delicacies higher sois of Sukhumvit, including Bed Supperclub, Q Bar, and
at affordable prices such as shark fin soup and bird's nest. Soi Narcissus, as well as the hip area of Thong Lo (Soi 55).
Phadung Dao is the best street for huge seafood restaurants.
Hippie hangout Khao San Road is also slowly gentrifying and
Try 1 kg of huge barbecued prawns for about 300 baht. Phahu-
a score of young trendy Thai teenagers have also made their
rat, Bangkok's Little India, has some decent Indian restaurants.
mark there. Going out in Khao San Road is mostly casual, sit-
ting at a sidewalk bar watching people pass by, but some night-
Dinner cruises clubs have opened here as well. Most of the younger Thais pre-
fer to congregate around Ratchadaphisek.
Dinner cruises on the Chao Phraya river are a touristy (but
fun) way of spotting floodlit temples while chowing down on Smoking is forbidden in all restaurants, bars and nightclubs,
seafood and watching Thai cultural performances. Most oper- whether air-conditioned or non-air-conditioned. Remarkably
ate buffet-style and the quality of the food is so-so, but there's for Thailand, this rule is strictly enforced.
lots of it and it's not too spicy. While the river can give a roman-
tic experience, it can also be dirty and smelly with lots of plants
floating around.
Go-go and beer bars
The go-go bar is an institution of Bangkok's "naughty nightlife".
In a typical go-go, several dozen dancers in bikinis (or less)
Drink crowd the stage, shuffling back and forth to loud music and try-
ing to catch the eye of punters in the audience. Some (but not
Individual listings can be found in Bangkok's district articles all) also put on shows where girls perform on stage, but these
are generally tamer than you'd expect nudity, for example,
is technically forbidden. In a beer bar, there are no stages and
the girls are wearing street clothes.
If this sounds like a thinly veiled veneer for prostitution, it is. Al-
though some point to the large number of American GIs dur-
ing the Vietnam War as the point of origin of the Thai sex trade,
others have claimed that current Thai attitudes towards sexual-
ity have deeper roots in Thai history. Both go-go and beer bars
are squarely aimed at the foreign tourists and it's fairly safe to
assume that most if not all Thais in them are on the take. That
said, it's perfectly OK to check out these shows without actu-
ally partaking, and there are more and more curious couples
and even the occasional tour group attending. The main areas
is around Patpong, but similar bars to the ones at Patpong can
be found in Sukhumvit, at Nana Entertainment Plaza (Soi 4) and
Soi Cowboy (Soi 23). Before heading to these places, be sure to
Sirocco at State Tower, Silom
read the Stay safe section for some additional advice.
Bangkok's nightlife is infamously wild, but it's not quite what it
used to be: due to recent social order campaigns, there have As go-go bars close around 1AM, there are so-called after-hour
been quite a lot of crack-downs on opening hours, nudity, drug clubs that stay open till the sun gets up. They are not hard to
use etc. Most restaurants, bars and clubs are now forced to find just hop in a taxi. Taxi drivers will be eager to drive you
close at 1AM sharp, although quite a few are allowed to stay to an after-hour club, as they get commissions from club own-
open till 2AM or later. Informal sidewalk bars do stay open all ers to bring you to them you might even get the ride for free.
night, particularly in Sukhumvit and Khao San Road. You must These clubs generally feel grim and sleazy, and there are so-
carry your passport for ID checks and police occasionally raid called "freelancers" among the girls (prostitutes). Taxi drivers
bars and discos, subjecting all customers to drug tests and are especially eager to bring you to Bossy Club in Pratunam
and Spicy Club near Siam Square, but there are plenty of alter-
23
Bangkok Bangkok Sleep
24
Bangkok Bangkok Stay safe
ance in case you are injured. You may be the world's best driver Beware of tuk-tuk or taxi drivers who approach you speaking
but you'll meet many of the world's worst drivers in Thailand. good English or with an "I farang" sign, especially those who
mention or take you to a tailor shop (or any kind of business).
Bangkok does have more than its fair share of scams, and They are paid by inferior tailor shops to bring tourists there to
many individuals in the tourist business do not hesitate to over- be subjected to high pressure sales techniques. If at any point
charge unwary visitors. As a rule of thumb, it is wise to decline your transportation brings you somewhere you didn't intend
all offers made by someone who appears to be a friendly local or plan to go, walk away immediately, ignore any entreaties to
giving a hapless tourist some local advice. Never get in a tuk- the contrary, and find another taxi or tuk-tuk.
tuk if someone else is trying to get you into one. Most Bangkok
locals do not approach foreigners without an ulterior motive. Also beware of private bus companies offering direct trips
from Bangkok to other cities with "VIP" buses. There are a lot
Scams of scams performed by these private bus companies. The so-
called direct VIP trips may end up changing three or four un-
You should always be on the look-out for scammers, especial- comfortable minibuses to the destination, and the 10-11 hour
ly in major tourist areas. Beware of tuk-tuk drivers offering all- trip may well turn into 17-18 hours. Instead, try to book pub-
day tours for prices as low as 10 baht. You may indeed be taken lic BKS buses from the main bus terminals. It's worth the extra
on a full-day tour, but you will end up only visiting one gem shoe-leather, as there have been reports of robberies on pri-
and souvenir shop after another. The driver gets a commission vate buses as well.
if you buy something and gas coupons even if you don't.
Unless the idea of travelling by tuk-tuk appeals to you, it's al- Go-go bars
most always cheaper, more comfortable and less hassle to take
a metered taxi. Bangkok is known for its go-go bars and the prostitution that
comes along with it. Technically, some aspects of prostitution
Be highly skeptical when an English-speaking Thai at a popular are illegal (eg. soliciting, pimping), but enforcement is rare, and
tourist attraction approaches you out of the blue, telling that brothels are common. It's not illegal to pay for sex or to pay a
your intended destination is currently closed or offering dis- "barfine" (a fee the bar collects if you want to take an employee
count admissions. Temples are almost always free (the main ex- away).
ceptions are Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho) and open just about
every day of the year. Anyone telling you otherwise, even if The age of consent in Thailand is 15, but a higher minimum age
they have an official-looking identification card, is most like- of 18 applies in the case of prostitutes. Penalties for sex with
ly out to scam you, especially if they suggest a tuk-tuk ride to minors are harsh. All adult Thais must carry an identity card,
some alternate sights to see until the sight re-opens. At paid which will state that they were born in 2534 or earlier if they
admission sites, verify the operating hours at the ticket win- were over the age of 18 on January 1, 2010 (in the Thai calendar,
dow. 2010 is the year 2553). Many hotels retain the ID cards of pros-
titutes for the duration of their visit. Whilst most prostitutes are
If you entered one of these tuk-tuks, touts often will drop you employed by bars or similar businesses, some are "freelancers".
off at a certain place, such as a genuine Buddhist temple. Here Petty theft and other problems are more common with these
you will find a man that claims to be an official, and he guides freelancers. HIV and AIDS awareness is better than it used to be,
you in a certain direction. There you will find another "official" but infection statistics among entertainment industry workers
who also claims that a certain attraction is closed. This way, a remain high; freelancers are the highest risk group. Almost all
tourist hears the same statement by multiple people, and is girls insist on using condoms.
more eager to believe that his or her intended destination in-
deed is closed. Never get involved with these scammers or be- While walking in go-go bar areas is generally safe, you have to
lieve any of their statements. be cautious of touts who try to drag you into the upstairs bars
with offers of ping-pong shows and 100-baht beer. The beer
When getting a taxi, it is a good idea to hail a moving taxi from may well be 100 baht, but the "show" you'll be treated to will
the main road, or to walk a short distance out of a major tourist be 1000 baht or more. The rule of thumb is that if you cannot
area before looking for one. This is no guarantee of honesty, see inside from street level, avoid the establishment.
but greatly increases your chances of finding an honest dri-
ver, of which there are plenty in Bangkok, even if it sometimes Do not get into fights with locals. Thais are peace loving peo-
seems that every driver is on the make. Most of the untrustwor- ple, but when a Thai fights a foreigner, it is never a fair fight.
thy drivers are the ones standing still in tourist areas. Another You'll wind up having to fight 10 to 20 others who were not ini-
important rule of thumb is to insist on the meter for taxis and tially involved, or the police will be called and not do anything
agree on a price in advance for tuk-tuks. If they refuse, or quote to assist you (especially the Metropolitan Police, as they nor-
silly prices, just walk out and get a different one as they're rarely mally have very limited English skills; always contact the Tourist
in short supply. The Thai phrase to ask a driver to use the me- Police when in trouble). Thais are also notorious for fighting
ter is mee-TOE, khap if you're male and mee-TOE, kha if you're with weaponry (guns, knives, broken bottles, metal rods) or
female. employing Muay Thai techniques. These are usually produced
25
Bangkok Bangkok Cope
from their concealed locations, with foreigners getting serious- Food and water
ly injured or worse. Just avoid all confrontations. If you do get
involved in a situation, it is better to apologize and get the heck As elsewhere in Thailand, be careful with what you eat. Out-
out of there. In Thailand, discretion is definitely the better part side of major tourist hotels and resorts, stay away from raw
of valour. leafy vegetables, egg-based dressings like mayonnaise, un-
packaged ice cream and minced meat as hot weather tends to
Animal abuse make food go bad faster. In short, stick to boiled, baked, fried,
or peeled goods.
Elephants are a large part of Thailand's tourist business, and
the smuggling and mistreatment of elephants for tourist at-
tractions is a widespread practice. Be aware that elephants are
often separated from their mothers at a young age to be cruelly
Cope
trained under captivity for the rest of their lives. If you must go
on an elephant ride, purchase an elephant painting or use ele- Publications
phants for other activities please take their mistreatment into
account. Bangkok Post, . One of the better English-language news-
papers of the country, but also includes sections on travel,
A depressingly common sight on the congested streets of leisure, entertainment, life and classifieds in Bangkok.
Bangkok is elephant begging. During night hours, mahouts
(trainers) with lumbering elephants approach tourists to feed BK Magazine, . Bangkok's premier city living magazine; a
the creatures bananas or take a photo with them for a fee. The guide to the city's restaurants, nightlife, travel, arts and
elephants are brought to the city to beg in this way because more. New additions release weekly and are distributed in
they are out of work and are mistreated and visibly distressed selected venues.
under the conditions of the city. Please avoid supporting this
cruelty by rejecting the mahouts as they offer you bananas Medical tourism
to feed the elephants. This is especially common in Silom and
Sukhumvit. Bangkok's hospitals offer generally high quality services at
a fraction of the cost of a Western hospital. Probably the
Due to its location, lax laws, and resources, many illegal
best-regarded (and most expensive) is Bumrungrad Hospital
animal products come through Bangkok. Rare and endan-
in Sukhumvit, which (for example) charges 60,000 baht for
gered species are often sold at markets for pets (especially at
an all-inclusive breast implant package. Bangkok is also well-
Chatuchak), and many other animal products are sold as luxury
known as a center for sexual reassignment surgery for people
items. Avoid buying rare pets, leather, ivory, talons, dried sea
wishing to change their physical sex, although this falls out
creatures (such as starfish), fur, feathers, teeth, wool, and other
of the scope of a casual vacation. Hospitals can be found all
products since they are most likely the result of illegal poach-
over the city, but the ones particularly interesting for medical
ing, and buying them contributes greatly to animal endanger-
tourism can be found in Sukhumvit, Silom, Phahonyothin and
ment and abuse.
Ratchadaphisek.
Political unrest Those same districts have proper dental clinics with Eng-
lish-speaking dentists and staff. The largest of them is
In 2008, political unrest hit the headlines, with the yellow-shirt- the Bangkok International Dental Center with branches in
ed People's Alliance for Democracy (PAD) closing down both of Ratchadaphisek and Siam Square. There are also plenty of
Bangkok's airports for a week with several people killed in polit- teeth whitening, implant and orthodontic centers over town.
ical violence. After the new prime minister was elected, things
were more or less back to normal for a while, but the situa- Immigration office
tion remained unstable. In 2010, new political unrest surfaced
with red-shirted protesters from the United Front for Democ- The Immigration Bureau has moved from central Soi Suan Plu
racy Against Dictatorship (UDD) occupying much of down- to far-away Government Building B in Chaeng Wattana Soi 7
town Bangkok. These protests turned violent when govern- (+66-2-141-9889, , M-F 8:30AM-noon, 1PM-4:30PM). The center
ment troops tried to take back parts of central Bangkok that is in the far north of Bangkok near the old Don Muang Airport.
had been seized by protesters. Always follow the independent It is a spacious building with a ground floor cafe, restaurants
press for the newest political developments, stay away from and copy vendors. Visas, re-entry permits and many other im-
demonstrations. migration services are available. It is best to take the Skytrain to
Mo Chit station and then hail a taxi to the government center.
Services for Myanmarese, Cambodian and Lao citizens remain
at Soi Suan Plu.
26
Bangkok Bangkok Get out
Get out
Central Plains
If you want to get out of the city for a while, there are plenty of
day trip options from Bangkok.
Further destinations
Bangkok is also an excellent hub for onward travel into other
regions of Thailand.
27
Districts Districts
DISTRICTS
Districts
Map of Bangkok
28
Districts Siam Square Understand
Get in
SIAM SQUARE
Understand
While Rattanakosin represents Thailand's history and culture,
Siam Square represents Thailand as a newly industrializing
economy. Siam Square's first buildings were only construct-
ed in the 1970s, on land of Chulalongkorn University which
tried to get some extra rental income for the university. It start-
ed with ordinary shops, but has since expanded to a shop-
ping and entertainment mecca that has everything upper-class
teenagers and college students could possibly want luxu-
ry shopping malls and glitzy department stores filled with de-
signer labels and hip fashion boutiques.
By boat
If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat
is your best bet to get to Siam Square. It is only a short walk to
the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where you can get on the
boat. The service operates every day from 5:30AM to 8:30PM.
The Golden Mount Line brings you to Sapan Hua Chang pier for
Siam Square, and terminates at Pratunam pier (for Ratchapra-
song intersection). You can switch to the NIDA Line at Pratu-
nam pier, which brings you to Chitlom, Wireless and on to
Sukhumvit and Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Lee-
29
Districts Siam Square See
lard pier at the Golden Mount to Sapan Hua Chang takes about the English football player Steven Gerrard. Foreigners have
25 minutes and costs around 9 baht. to comply with a hefty 900 baht price tag, while Thais chip
in for 350 baht. 900 baht.
By bus Queen Savang Vadhana Museum, Sra Pathum Palace, 195
Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Siam; entrance is near Siam Paragon),
Siam Square is among the most congested districts of Bangkok.
+66-2-252-1965(-7), . F-Sa 10AM-4PM, Su-Th closed. The
Combine that with the complexity of the bus system, and it's
Sra Pathum Palace is an oasis of silence right behind Siam
obvious that you're better off using other ways of transport.
Paragon. It has been the permanent residence of HM Queen
However, if you're coming from or going to the Grand Palace
Savang Vadhana from 1916 till 1955, and HRH Princess
area in Rattanakosin, the bus is the only way to get a direct con-
Sri Nagarindra has also lived here. When HRH Princess Sri
nection. Bus 15 starts at Phra Athit Road and then drives over
Nagarindra passed away, it became the residence of HRH
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), Lan Luang
Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. She turned one build-
Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang Road
ing into a museum that honors the Queen Grandmother
before arriving at MBK Center, Siam Square and Ratchaprasong
and shows her contributions to Thai society. The museum
intersection. This bus then continues to Silom Road, so take it
starts in the exhibition hall, that shows HM Queen Savang
in the other direction if you're coming from there.
Vadhana's biography, and then moves to her residence, the
Phra Tamnak Yai building. Make a reservation in advance
and request an English-speaking guide (at no extra cost). 150
See baht.
Bangkok Art and Culture Centre Siam Ocean World (), 1-2F, Siam
(), 939 Rama I Rd Paragon, 991 Rama 1 Rd (BTS Siam), +66-2-687-2000, .
(BTS National Stadium), +66-2-214-6630(-8), . Tu-Su 9AM-10PM daily. The largest aquarium in Southeast Asia, ex-
10AM-10PM, M closed. Interactive museums are the new hibiting over 30,000 marine animals from all over the world
hype in the artistic community of Bangkok, thus we have an- and featuring a wide range of rare and exotic species. The
other one. Visitors can interact with different kinds of arts, area of the aquarium spans over 10,000 square meters, as
such as performance arts, music, painting and film, in vari- wide as two football fields. The aquarium also offers a "dive
ous ways. On display are more than 300 works by Thai and with the sharks" program where you can scuba dive in the
international artists. Some of the temporary exhibitions can oceanarium side by side with sharks and rays, plus a "Sanyo
be good as well. Free. 4D Xventure" with specially rigged seats to add a kick to the
typical 3D movie experience. 900 baht.
Erawan Shrine ( Saan Phra Phrom), 494
Ratchadamri Rd (BTS Chit Lom, in front of the Grand Wat Pathum Wanaram (), Rama I Rd (BTS
Hyatt Erawan Hotel at Ratchaprasong intersection), Siam, between Siam Paragon and CentralWorld Plaza).
+66-2-254-1234, . 6AM-midnight daily. A Hindu shrine that 7AM-6PM daily. Right between Siam Paragon and Central-
houses a statue of Phra Phrom, the Thai representation of World Plaza in the middle of consumerism, this temple is
the Hindu creation god Brahma. Free. often overlooked. While it is not as remarkable as the tem-
ples found in Rattanakosin, it does remind us of the spiri-
Jim Thompson's House ( ), 6 Soi tual history of Thailand. Wat Pathum was founded in 1857
Kasemsan 2 (BTS National Stadium), +66-2-216-7368, . by King Mongkut (Rama IV) when the area was surrounded
9AM-5PM daily. The infamous CIA operative Jim Thompson by canals and rice fields. It was built to function as a place
revived the Thai silk industry after World War II and had this of worship close to the Sra Pathum Palace. At the temple is
house assembled from six traditional Thai-style houses. You the Phra Meru Mas, a reconstruction of the crematorium of
must take the guided tour through the buildings, which are the Princess Mother, whose remains were transferred here
given in plenty of foreign languages. Get there early to beat after her cremation at Sanam Luang. During the May 2010
the heat. 100 baht. red shirt protests, this temple functioned as a safe haven for
protesting women and children. Free.
Madame Tussaud's (),
6F, Siam Discovery Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Siam),
+66-2-658-0060, . 10AM-10PM daily. Everyone knows
Madame Tussaud's, the popular museum displaying wax- Do
works of famous people. The Bangkok branch features life-
sized statues of HRH Prince Mahitala Thibed Adulyadej APEX, Siam Square Soi 1, +66-2-252-6498, . 10AM-11PM
Vikrom Phra Baroma Rajajanok (The Prince Father), HRH daily. The theaters of APEX were built in the late 1960s and
Princess Srinagarindra (The Princess Mother) and other im- have changed little ever since; going to the movies here is
portant Thai individuals. But there are also plenty of West- a kind of retro experience not found in other cinemas. It is
ern figures, including Barack Obama in the oval office and widely known for its more offbeat and art house films. It is
spread over two theaters: Lido Theatre has three screens,
30
Districts Siam Square Buy
Center Point Massage, 2F, 266/3 Siam Square Soi 3 (BTS Si-
am, exit 2, then walk into Soi 3, turn left at the Costume shop,
walk on and turn left again at Siam Fruit), +66-2-658-4597, .
10AM-midnight daily. Worth seeking out as they do nice,
reasonably priced Thai, herbal, oil and foot massages, as
well as aromatherapy. They also have branches in Silom and
Sukhumvit. 300-950 baht/hour.
31
Districts Siam Square Eat
stalls, especially if you are with a Thai friend or family mem- Ratchaprasong
ber.
32
Districts Siam Square Drink
33
Districts Siam Square Sleep
live jazz bars. The food and drinks are passable, but the peo- +66-2-215-3029, . A decent guest house that is quite popu-
ple come here for the atmosphere, which is lively and re- lar among backpackers that can afford a little more. A-One
laxed. The interior is really chic, but expect to pay for it. Be has a luggage room and WiFi access for anyone toting their
careful to check the bill as the waiters are known to mess laptop (24 hours of access costs 100 baht for guests and 150
around with it. baht for walk-ins). The rooms are functional, if less than in-
spiring. 600-700 baht.
Hard Rock Cafe, 424/3-6 Siam Square Soi 11 (BTS Siam),
+66-2-251-0797, . M-Sa 9AM-7PM. Everyone knows the Hard Muangphol Mansion, 931/9 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National
Rock Cafe, and this is just like the other ones around the Stadium), +66-2-219-4445, . This guest house faces onto
globe: rock 'n' roll music all night long, the typical Hard Rock Rama I Road, but you have to enter from Soi Kasemsan 1. The
Cafe merchandise and live bands every night. But this is the ground floor has Internet terminals and a restaurant that is
only one that has a beautiful tuktuk coming out of the exte- open 24 hours. 800-1100 baht.
rior.
Reno Hotel, 40 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium),
+66-2-215-0026-(7). A clean, remodeled hotel that has
Nightclubs breakfast included. There is a nice pool in the nothing-fancy
patio area. The rooms on the front are dark and a bit noisy.
There are a couple of after hours clubs in Rong Muang Soi 1, in
Rooms by the back or pool are very pleasant. The friendly
the backstreets of Siam Square (access via Rong Muang Soi 5,
staff provide laundry, checked luggage, and a travel desk.
off Rama I Road):
780-1100 baht.
Contact
True Urban Park, 3F, Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd (BTS Si-
am), +66 2-610-8888. 10AM-10PM daily. Built by commu-
nication conglomerate TRUE at a cost of US$1 million, this
is not just an internet cafe, but a hip "lifestyle experience"
that is also a flower shop and bookstore. It is complete with
funky chairs, iPod listening stations and sonic bubbles hang-
ing over your head, and a live DJ is playing. Try the iced cafe
mocha. 50 baht/hour.
UCC Cafe City 21, 1F, Siam Center, 989 Rama I Rd (BTS Si-
Typical room offered at Soi Kasemsan 1 am), +66-2-658-1716, . 9AM-9PM daily. Easily accessible at
the ground floor of the Siam Center, this trendy and open
A-One Inn, 25/13 Soi Kasemsan 1 (BTS National Stadium, on
cafe has free internet terminals available. On the menu are
the right side of the street if coming from Rama I Rd),
34
Districts Siam Square Cope
Cope
Bangkok International Dental Center (BIDC), 205/2-3 Phaya
Thai Rd (BTS Siam, exit 4), +66-658-4774, . M-Sa
10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-5PM.
Get out
Pratunam is 600 meters north of Ratchaprasong intersection
with plenty of shopping centers, malls and markets.
The shopping spree also continues east, when Phloen Chit
Road changes its name into Sukhumvit Road.
35
Districts Sukhumvit Understand
SUKHUMVIT Bangkok with the cities upstream the river. Since 1981, it has
lost most of its economic relevance when the larger Laem Cha-
bang Port near Pattaya took over business.
Understand
Sukhumvit Road is not only one of the longest roads in Thai-
Get in
land, but one of the longest roads in the world. Towards the
west end it changes name to Phloen Chit Road and Rama I Road
as it enters the Siam Square area, but to the east it runs most of
the way to the Cambodian border. The sois are numbered from
west to east, with odd numbers north and even numbers south
of Sukhumvit Road. The sois on the north and south sides of
Sukhumvit don't line up; for example, Soi 33 is opposite Soi 24.
Confusing is that these sois also have names of their own (for
example, Soi 55 is better known as Soi Thong Lo) and these sois
can also have sois of their own (such as Thong Lo Soi 1).
36
Districts Sukhumvit Do
The following BTS stations are currently present in Sukhumvit or where to get out. Better take the Skytrain, metro or express
(from west to east): Nana, Asok, Phrom Phong, Thong Lo, Ekka- boat, even if it costs a little more.
mai, Phra Khanong and On Nut. Each station serves the neigh-
borhood of the same name. Asok is the most convenient sta-
tion as it is in the center of Sukhumvit and has a direct trans-
fer with Bangkok's MRT metro system. In the following years,
Do
the Sukhumvit Line will extend even further south connecting
Focus on yourself and get pampered at one of the many mas-
other residential areas in the south of the city.
sage establishments around Sukhumvit. Some of the better
ones include:
Metro
Happy Feet, Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana, behind The Park
If you're coming from Silom or Ratchadaphisek, you can direct-
Hotel), +66-2-650-3517. 10AM-11PM daily. This massage
ly reach Sukhumvit by Bangkok's MRT metro system. The most
parlor offers excellent traditional Thai massage, oil massage,
convenient station is Sukhumvit, which is right in the middle of
aromatherapy, foot massage and nail care. 300 baht/hour.
the district and with a possible transfer onto the BTS Sukhumvit
Line. The other stations in the district are Khlong Toei and Praiphana, Thong Lo Soi 7 and 9 (BTS Thong Lo),
QSNCC. The metro ride from Silom takes about ten minutes, +66-2-392-6518. 10AM-11PM daily. Another massage parlor,
while the ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about 15 minutes. this one offers a traditional Thai massage, oil massage and
Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 15 to aromatherapy, manicures and pedicures. For 15 baht, you
40 baht. can get a 15-minute neck and shoulder massage. 300 baht/
hour.
By boat Hatthai Massage, Sukhumvit Rd (near exit 1 of BTS Thong Lo,
The Saen Saep Express Boat service is a rough, but entertain- close to the 7-Eleven). A traditional two-hour Thai massage
ing way of getting in and around Sukhumvit. The Saen Saeb is given upstairs, where patrons are separated by curtains,
canal forms the northern boundary of Sukhumvit's sois and is which are often opened up so masseuses can chit chat. A
a cheap alternative means of escaping the traffic jams if you're 90-minutes reflexology foot massage is done at ground lev-
coming from Khao San Road, the eastern side of Rattanakosin el, opposite a large television; try not to doze off. It is popu-
or Ramkhamhaeng. lar with Japanese businessmen staying at the nearby Grand
Tower Inn. 300 baht/2 hours.
There are two lines: The Golden Mount Line runs from Panfa
Leelard near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin east to Pratu- For a more upmarket experience, head for a spa.
nam near Ratchaprasong intersection. The NIDA Line runs from Leyana Day Spa and Garden, Soi To Sak, 33 Thong Lo Soi 13
Pratunam all the way northeast along Ramkhamhaeng Road (BTS Thong Lo, walk into Soi Thong Lo, take a left into Thong
to Wat Sriboonreung. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Nana Lo Soi 13, then a right into Soi Torsak), +66-2-874-4461, .
Nua takes about 35 minutes and costs 13 baht. You must switch M-F 11AM-10PM, Sa-Su 10AM-10PM. This spa is specialized
boats at Pratunam. Other stops along Sukhumvit's northern in half-day packages designed for couples. Getting there is
sois (from west to east) are Nana Chard, Asoke-Petchaburi, quite a hike, but you can get a free transfer from the BTS sta-
Prasanmit, Italthai, Wat Mai Chonglom, Baan Don Mosque, Soi tion if you request this beforehand. 5500 baht/3 hours.
Thonglor, Charn Issara and Vijit School. Center Point Massage, Sukhumvit Road Soi 24. Offers excel-
If you're coming from the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin, lent traditional massage in a soothing environment.
there are two ways to get into Sukhumvit. The fastest way is Bliss Massage & Spa, Sukhumvit Road Soi 33. Offers tradition-
to take the Chao Phraya Express Boat to Sathorn (Taksin) pier al Thai massage, head and foot massage along with a "fish
in Silom. From there, continue your way north using the BTS spa" - wherein you immerse your feet in a tank of water and
Skytrain Silom Line. You'll need to switch trains at Siam BTS sta- little fish nibble away at the dead skin.
tion and continue your way east onto the Sukhumvit Line. The
whole ride from Rattanakosin takes about 40 minutes. You can
also choose to take the 30-minutes walk (or a five minutes taxi
ride) to Panfa Leelard pier and continue your journey using the
Saen Saep Express Boat.
By bus
This first tip on bus travel is one to remember: do not do
it! Sukhumvit Road is probably the most congested road of
Bangkok and traffic jams exist the whole day till late in the
evening. Also, it is really hard to find out which bus goes where
37
Districts Sukhumvit Learn
Learn Markets
Shopping in Sukhumvit starts on the street. The pavement
is cramped with endless roadside stalls that offer many of
the same items as the Patpong Night Market, such as sou-
venirs, accessories, knock-off clothes, pornographic DVDs, pi-
rated movies and other junk. Prices are somewhat better than
in Patpong though. The stalls are open most of the day, and on-
ly seem to close late in the evening. The stores are at the main
thoroughfare from Soi 1 till Soi 20. The part between Nana and
Asok stations is particularly a hard walk, as many pedestrians
queue up at the stalls to take a look. Haggling is generally ex-
pected, but it'll only save you a few more baht.
Emporium
Buy
Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom Phong),
As Sukhumvit is one of Bangkok's main thoroughfares, the +66-2-269-1000, . 10AM-10PM daily. This upmarket mall,
long road is lined with shops, boutiques and modern shop- with selections of everything in design, including watch-
ping plazas ranging from Soi 3 (Soi Nana Nuea) up to Soi 63 es, cosmetics and clothes, is the top competitor to
(Soi Ekkamai). Most shops and restaurants are concentrated Ratchaprasong's Gaysorn Plaza. The lower floors are ded-
between Soi 3 and Soi 21 (Asoke Rd) and along shortcuts be- icated to brands like Louis Vuitton and Rolex, but (unlike
tween Asoke and Ekkamai. Gaysorn) it has more affordably priced goods on the upper
38
Districts Sukhumvit Eat
levels. Kinokunyia book store has a large selection of English known department store that is spread all over Bangkok. Its
language books, including travel-related ones. The top floor food court, while still decent, is a bit more expensive than
is home to one of the nicest cinemas in the city after Siam the others, and you may need to order twice get full. It's in
Paragon (and somewhat less pricey than that one) and the the basement floor of the building.
Thailand Creative and Design Center. Emporium also has a
Thonglor Midtown (formerly Playground!), Thong Lo Soi 18
popular food court and a good selection of restaurants on
(BTS Thong Lo, then a 15-20 minutes walk, or hop on the
the fifth floor. A very upscale happening (and crowd), this
songthaew for 6 baht), +66-2-715-9408, . 11AM-9PM daily.
place challenges the idea of food courts as being simple
Formerly the quirky uberhip Playground! department store,
places to have a snack after shopping. Park Food Hall serves
an extensive three-course meal with wine in a dimly-lit at- now a hip mini-mall with IT, modern design and home acces-
mosphere. You can also go to the regular food court, which sory stores, plus Vanilla Restaurant, Shiki Japanese cuisine
is comparatively small and hidden behind the other restau- and a Starbucks.
rants, but cheap and often packed. At peak hours it's difficult
to get a seat if you're alone. The prices have been increasing Stores
over the past years though.
If you know where to go, Sukhumvit offers some of the best
J Avenue, 323/1 Thong Lo Soi 15 (BTS Thong Lo). Opened in stores in bespoke tailoring. Never go to custom tailor shops
2004, this four-story upscale "lifestyle mall" that is typical for that get your suits and shirts ready in 24 hours or less. If you
the swanky Thong Lo neighborhood. It is an open-air mall want quality, go to a reliable tailor which will ask for two to
with giant rain trees inside. Its modern architecture and hip five sittings, and the whole process will take about a week. For
designer shops are catering to Thong Lo's Japanese crowd more information on bespoke tailoring, see the Silom article.
(that's what the J stands for).
39
Districts Sukhumvit Eat
40
Districts Sukhumvit Eat
tion, great in the evening. Lounge bar and private rooms the beautiful tropical garden which is wonderful. The tradi-
upstairs. The different sets of lunch menus are reasonably tional interior You can get lunch for about 250 baht, which
priced. The food is excellent and includes dishes hard to find is a good value. Service can be rough, be especially wary for
elsewhere. Some dishes could be more spicy by Thai stan- the overcharge at the end. 450 baht.
dards though. 200-400 baht.
Nihonmura (), 87 Soi Thong Lo 13 (BTS Thong Lo).
Lemongrass, 5/1 Sukhumvit Soi 24 (BTS Phrom Phong, op- Nihonmura, commonly known as Japan Village, is a dining
posite the Emporium), +66-2-258-8637. M-Su 6PM-10PM. complex with about a dozen quality Japanese restaurants.
This is a very good if slightly expat-oriented Thai restau- Uomasa (+66-2-392-6575) is the best joint for sashimi (raw
rant. Located in an old tea house, the ambiance is very fish). You can order the "Iso" menu, a plate full of sashi-
charming and eclectic. The pomelo salad and tom yam kung mi priced at 1600 baht. It seems expensive, but its similar-
() are both excellent. As is usual with popular ex- ly priced to the generic Japanese chain restaurants, but the
pat places, the spicyness has been toned down somewhat. sashimi here is much fresher and of better quality. 350 baht.
Also, the service can be a bit hasty. 350-450 baht.
Nobu, 414 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, between Thong
Ruen Mallika, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (it is actually not on Soi Lo Soi 12 and 14), +66-2-392-5297, . 11AM-2PM, 6PM-mid-
22, it is in a little street off Soi 22, take a right at the 7-11 when night daily. This is a nice local restaurant. They are very good
you are heading from Sukhumvit Rd towards Rama IV Rd for lunch with a large selection of Bento (boxed lunch) spe-
and it is about 200-300m on your right), +66-2-663-3211, . cials. Getting dinner here is a lot more expensive than lunch.
11AM-11PM daily. A very good restaurant in an "antique" It is focused on fresh seafood and dishes from the Osaka re-
Thai house with a leafy outdoor section. The menu is a huge gion of Japan. It's always crowded with Japanese expats that
picture book which should help in ordering. The staff are live in the area. 300 baht.
very friendly and wear traditional Thai outfits to complete
Sukhumvit Plaza (), 212 Sukhumvit Soi 12
the ambiance. 450-650 baht.
(BTS Asok), +66-2-255-4178. Korean restaurants can be
Asian found scattered throughout Sukhumvit, but a particularly
heavy concentration lurks in Korea Town, the informal name
Finding your way around the mindblowing variety in of Sukhumvit Plaza. There are about a dozen Korean restau-
Sukhumvit might feel a bit daunting at first. One way to ap- rants on the ground floor of the complex. These are extreme-
proach the area is to visit its ethnic food neighborhoods. Little ly authentic though and you may have a little trouble order-
Japan is located near Sukhumvit Soi 33 and across the street ing if not familiar with Korean food. Price-wise they are on
at Sukhumvit Soi 24, with Phrom Phong BTS station strad- the steep side Arirang (+66-2-654-0177(-9), ) is among the
dling the two. There is also a smaller concentration of Japanese more fairly priced ones. 300-500 baht.
restaurants along Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lo), notably the
Nihonmura ("Japan Village") in Thong Lo Soi 13. Tenderloins, 9 Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong),
+66-2-258-4529, . 10AM-1AM daily. This Australian barbecue
Akiyoshi, 2F, Taksin Square Bldg, 1521/1 Sukhumvit Rd restaurant calls itself a "contemporary upmarket sports bar
(right beside BTS Phra Khanong), +66-2-714-0791. M- and steak house", and even they have to admit that it is a
F 11AM-2PM, 5:30PM-10PM, Sa-Su 11AM-10PM. The two weird combination. They serve up a good grill, although a
must-tries here are the Japanese-style sukiyaki and the bit on the pricey side. Their 250-baht lunch sets might be a
shabu shabu. The employees will light up a burning pan on better idea. Reserving a table is recommended, especially at
your table and you can just throw in the ingredients yourself. weekends. 250-500 baht.
The food is really delicious, and they will serve until you're
full. The ambiance is best-suited for a group of people. But Xuan Mai, 351/3 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo, across the
better make a reservation if you're coming after 6PM, as it's street from Mercedes-Benz Thong Lo), +66-2-185-2619, .
often packed. 400-500 baht. Tu-Th 11AM-2PM, 5PM-10PM, F-Su 11AM-2PM, 5PM-mid-
night, M closed. Excellent and varied Vietnamese menu,
Grande Teppanyaki and Grande Ramen, 25/17-19 served by the owner, a charming lady who was a former Viet-
Sukhumvit Soi 55 (BTS Thong Lo), +66-2-714-1020. Two namese beauty queen and FBI operative before moving to
small Japanese restaurants facing each other, popular with Bangkok to open a restaurant. It has an open kitchen, so you
Thais and Japanese alike. Sub-100 baht lunch menus are par- can see the cooking in action. 250-450 baht.
ticularly good value, but the beef curry with real steak is a
deal at any time of the day. 130 baht, subs 80 baht. Vientiane Kitchen, 8 Soi Napha Sap Yaek 1, Sukhumvit Soi
36 (BTS Thong Lo, at the corner of Soi 36 and Soi Napha Sap
Le Dalat, 47/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Yaek 1), +66-2-258-6171, . noon-midnight daily. This re-
Sukhumvit, then walk north up Soi 23), +66-2-258-4192. laxed-looking Lao restaurant serves very good Lao food. It
11AM-2:30PM, 6PM-10PM daily. Two Vietnamese restau- has a nice ambiance featuring a band playing music from
rants, two locations about a block apart and across the street Laos. 150-300 baht.
from each other. When it's a nice day outside, take a seat in
41
Districts Sukhumvit Eat
Indian and Middle Eastern is very authentic and much like you'd taste in India. The ten-
der lamb Raan is their signature dish. 200-400 baht.
42
Districts Sukhumvit Eat
and delivery. The Villa is also a three-bedroom guest house most importantly, great Sangria. Surprisingly owned and
in a relaxing tropical garden with private pool. 300 baht. managed by an Englishman. 400 baht.
Crepes & Co., 18/1 Sukhumvit Soi 12 (BTS Asok, then a far Thyme Bistro & Martini Bar, 1F, Kingston Suites Bldg,
walk; it is further down the street from Cabbages & Con- 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), +66-2-120-8288, .
doms), +66-2-653-3990, . 9AM-midnight daily. This restau- 6:30AM-11PM daily. A brand new restaurant located in
rant is a French-Mediterranean crepes place. There is an ex- Kingston Suites Bangkok, its dishes could be described as
tensive selection of crepes, both sweet and savory. There's "fusion", as it offers local, international and some popular
also Spanish tapas and some Greek and Moroccan menus on Mediterranean dishes. The asparagus rolls are a must-have
offer. The atmosphere is homey, as is the garden. The service and if you are there in the evening, have one of their Marti-
is friendly and drinking water is served for free. 400 baht. nis. 300-400 baht.
Greyhound Cafe, 2F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS American and Tex-Mex
Phrom Phong), +66-2-255-6964(-5), . 10AM-10PM daily. An
extremely modern restaurant of concrete and brushed steel, Bourbon Street Bar & Restaurant, 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi
offering a fusionesque menu of food ranging from authen- 22 (BTS Phrom Phong, at Washington Square), +66
tic Thai to Italian pasta to Elvis burgers. Mains are around 2-259-0328(-9), . 7AM-1AM daily. This places serves some
300 baht, although the lunch sets are cheaper than that. 300 surprisingly authentic Cajun food. Premium prices are
baht. charged for dinner but the two or three-course lunches at
230-290 baht are a good value. On Tuesday evenings they
Minibar Royale, Citadines Bldg, 37/7 Sukhumvit Soi 23 (BTS have a Mexican buffet starting at 6PM which is somewhat
Thong Lo), +66-2-261-5533, . Su-Th 11AM-midnight, F-Sa cheaper than regular prices. 230-690 baht.
11AM-1AM. If you're looking for a hip New York or Paris-style
brasserie, this is definitely the place. The French decor is very Charley Brown's Mexicana, 1/23 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana,
classy done, and service is okay. On the menu are a mix of walk up Soi 11 and take a left at the first tailor shop into
French and American comfort food. Drink it down with one the small side-street and around the corner you will see it),
of their cocktails and you'll have a fun night out. Also a trip +66-2-651-2215, . M 5PM-midnight, Tu-Su 11:30AM-mid-
for breakfast. Prices are at the upper mid-range end though. night. Certainly the oldest Mexican restaurant in Bangkok
450 baht. and probably one of the best. They have special offers on
most days, including half priced margaritas and sangrias
Limoncello ( ), 17 Sukhumvit Soi 11 on Tuesdays and Cheap Charley Brown's night on Sundays
(BTS Nana), +66-2-651-0707. noon-2PM, 6PM-midnight (they match the cheap prices at Cheap Charlies who is closed
daily. A bright, airy pizzeria; the best Italian-style pizza in that night). A tip are the 150-baht lunch sets, which is a steal.
Bangkok, very thin and crispy with a great range of toppings. Free WiFi is available. 400-500 baht.
Amazing desserts too (try the profiteroles!). Avoid the house
wine, though; as is usual in Thailand, wine is very pricey, at Duke's, 5F, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phrom
1300 baht it is not worth it. 250-450 baht. Phong), +66-8-7002-9214, . 10AM-10PM daily. Popular
place for American food like "Falling Off The Bone" ribs, fresh
Stable Lodge, 39 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), crisp salads, gourmet burgers and home baked pizzas with
+66-2-653-0017(-9), . 7AM-midnight daily. Unlike other excellent value for money. 200-475 baht.
places, this restaurant (and hotel) focuses on traditional
Danish and Scandinavian food, though some Thai and inter- Great American Rib Company, 32 Sukhumvit Soi 36 (BTS
national cuisine is available. There's a Scandinavian all-you- Thong Lo, it is quite a hike from the main road into Soi 36),
can-eat lunch buffet with open sandwich selection on Satur- +66-2-661-3801, . 11AM-11PM daily. Great American South-
days and Sundays between noon and 3PM. Every evening ern-style ribs, steaks and seafood. Probably the most au-
from 6PM is an all-you-can-eat international barbecue buf- thentic ribs in town, smoked on low heat for 5 hours. Some
fet. Aside from these discounts offers, a-la-carte is over- menus are moderately priced, but others are very pricey (es-
priced and not worth it. The hotel is a well-known meeting pecially the steaks that don't come for less than 600 baht).
spot among Scandinavians with a nice family atmosphere. It 195-800 baht.
costs about 1800 baht for a clean and quiet room with swim-
Larry's Dive, 8 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (BTS Phrom Phong),
ming pool. 300 baht.
+66-2-663-4563, . 10AM-1AM daily. Best described as a
Tapas Cafe, 1/25 Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, less than five- sports bar in Hawaiian beach theme, although American,
minutes walk down Soi 11), +66-2-651-2947, . 11AM-late. Mexican and grill dishes are served as well. They offer
Good Spanish food in a nice atmosphere and area. The place gourmet burgers, steaks and barbecue pork ribs. At Fridays
is a little off-shot of Soi 11 (look for the signs at the entrance they have all-you-can-eat ribs for 399 baht. It also serves an
on the left, next door to Charley Browns Mexican Restau- all-day breakfast. If you really want to get a hangover the
rant). It is quite a popular place, good Spanish food, and next day, try their beer challenge: if you drink three pitchers
of beer within one hour, the beer will be free and you'll get
43
Districts Sukhumvit Drink
a free t-shirt. Also, your name will be written on the "wall of Go-go bars
fame". Don't wear your best shoes though, as they might fill
up with sand. Free WiFi. 400 baht.
44
Districts Sukhumvit Drink
Sports bars tables, hostesses and grill menus. Heineken is on draught for
75 baht each.
Looking for a place to watch your favorite sport on the big
The Robin Hood, P.B Building, 597-597/1-3 Sukhumvit Soi
screen? Sukhumvit from Soi 2 to 33 offers plenty of choices.
33/1 (BTS Phrom Phong, opposite Emporium shopping
The stereotypic bars here are British pubs with rugby on, sell-
mall), +66-2-662-3390, . 9AM-midnight daily. English pub
ing lots of beer and pub grub (be it grill menus or other simple
with pub grub and daily happy hour specials. Australian and
snacks). The workers are young Thai hostesses in tight outfits
British sports on large flat screen TVs. Popular with ex-pats.
who serve Western ex-pats that generally are older than 40.
The Sport Corner, 394/2 Sukhumvit Soi 20 (BTS Phrom
The Australian (), 38
Phong, at the corner of Soi 20 just behind the 7-11),
Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana, then 500 meters down the Soi
+66-8-708-45490, . 2PM-1AM daily. The Sport Corner offers
on the left), +66-2-651-0800, . 9AM-1AM daily. Good food;
numerous big flat-screen TVs, both indoors and outdoors,
excellent but expensive wine, and the most attractive wait-
showing sports from around the world. Friendly, hassle-free
resses in Bangkok. But you have to tolerate Aussie Rules foot-
hostesses, along with affordable drinks and Thai and West-
ball on the TVs!
ern food, make it a fun place to cheer your favorite team on.
Bradmans Sports Bistro (Downunder Bistro), 4/6 Sukhumvit
Witch's Tavern, 306/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Soi 8 and
Soi 23 (BTS Asok or MRT Sukhumvit, it is on the right side just
10; if you come from the main road, it is on your right-hand
past the Jasmine Building), +66-8-6807-1384, . 10AM-2AM
side), +66-2-391-9791. 11AM-1AM daily. This is Bangkok's
daily. An Australian bar and bistro with many TVs every-
original English pub, kind of an institution in the Thong Lo
where for watching different kind of sports. There are sever-
area. It has live music every night. Wednesday 5PM-9PM is
al sound rooms, so customers can watch different sports at
"ladies night", which means free drinks for the girls. Many
different parts of the bar. The owner is actively involved in
secretaries from the surrounding office buildings seem to
the business, and sometimes asks his customers which sport
come over at that night. There are at least five English/Irish
should be on.
brews on tap, and you can order pizza.
Bully's ( ), Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, be-
tween Soi 2 and 4, next to the JW Marriot Hotel), Beer gardens
+66-2-656-4609, . 2PM-midnight. A typical Sukhumvit-style
bar with drinks, food, pool table and football screens. Beer In the winter time ("beer garden season"), popular beer gar-
is averagely priced and always cold, but a simple bottle of dens pop up in front of CentralWorld Plaza and Suan Lum Night
water is expensive at 80 baht. The owner can be rude, and Bazaar, serving up cold beer and live performances. Sukhumvit
drunk, too. But at least they have free internet and you can has a few places that are open year round:
read the newspaper.
Beer Garden Soi 7, 15 Sukhumvit Soi 7 (BTS Nana),
Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern, 6/1 Sukhumvit Soi 5 (BTS Nana, +66-255-7858. 10AM-2AM daily. For men only! It is a pick-
approximately 50 meters down from the main road on Soi up joint where men easily get numerous young and not so
5), +66-2-655-5340(-42), . noon-1AM daily. A large, west- young ladies for a night, particularly at weekends. It is pop-
ern sports bar with English-speaking staff serving Western ular as there is no "barfine" here. It can also be a nice place
and Thai food and drinks. There are large flat screen TVs to relax with moderate Western music, if you tell the ladies
all around, so a variety of sports are shown simultaneously to go away. They serve German and other beers, including
(baseball, soccer, rugby, golf, etc). Plenty of pool tables are wheat beer (Franziskaner). You can eat European food at the
in the rear, with female Thai players ready to open up a can tables or just have a drink at the bar.
of "whoop-ass" on you.
Cheap Charlie's, Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana),
The Londoner, Basement B, 591 UBC II Bldg, 104 Sukhumvit +66-2-253-4648. 4:30PM-1AM daily. An outdoor beer bar,
Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, at the corner of the main road and not a garden, that looks like it grew out of the side of the
Soi 33), +66-2-261-0238(-9), . 11AM-1AM daily. Remark- building. Pull up a stool anywhere on the Soi and enjoy a
able about this bar is that it is Thailand's only pub that brews cold one. It's a good place to start the night as the beer starts
its own beer. It has a good atmosphere that's nice for watch- at 60 baht, a lot cheaper than elsewhere in the area. Seems
ing sports, and is targeted at ex-pats and tourists alike. Hap- to mainly attract the young expat crowd.
py hour every day at 4PM-7PM and 11PM-1AM (so most of
the day actually). "Quiz night" every Tuesday night at 8PM. Old German Beerhouse, Grand President Tower III, 11
Free WiFi. Sukhumvit Soi 11 (BTS Nana), +66-2-651-3838, . 8AM-1AM
daily. The only place that looks like a German Brauhaus. The
The Office, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk in- beers served are Warsteiner and Erdinger, but they also have
to Soi 33 and take the second street to the right), the Frankfurter Apfelwein (a sort of German cider). Along
+66-2-662-1936, . M-Th 3:30-late, F-Sa noon-late, Su closed.
Another bar on Sukhumvit with beer, music, live sports, pool
45
Districts Sukhumvit Sleep
with the beer go their simple Thai or European dishes for 55 (Thong Lo) and Soi 63 (Ekkamai) also have their fair share of
120-200 baht. Free WiFi is also available. places to spend the night, but these are somewhat more mod-
est and have more in common with traditional bars.
Singha Beer Park (Singha Beer House), Asoke Rd (BTS Asok
or MRT Sukhumvit, 600 meters north from the main road),
+66-2-644-4146. M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa-Su 4PM-2AM. This is
a modern open-air beer garden. If you choose to sit inside, Sleep
you'll see its flashy interior and its laid-back couches on
which you can enjoy a cold beer. They also have the usual Property values in Sukhumvit are among the highest in
Thai dishes on offer. Bangkok, and accommodation is priced to match. There are
plenty of four and five-star hotels that cater to those with a lot
of money (including business travelers). Guest houses la Khao
Wine bars San Road are hard to find, and will set you back at least twice
as much.
With a growing interest in foreign as well as local wines, there is
a growing number of wine bars in Bangkok and many of these Another market is the sex industry. Some hotels nearby Nana
are in the Sukhumvit area. Most of these are trendy establish- Entertainment Plaza and Soi Cowboy offer "short time" stays.
ments with selections of exclusive French, Italian, Spanish and This short term option is cheaper, but can only be used for a
other international wines. couple of hours. It is meant for sex tourists and locals who want
to spend a couple of hours with their "date". These hotels gen-
Lake House, 18 Soi Phrom Mit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom
erally are quite cheap, but they can feel seedy and are not rec-
Phong, walk through Soi 39, then take a right into Soi Phrom
ommended for overnight stays.
Mit and it is at the right-hand side after 500 meters),
+66-2-662-6349, . 5PM-midnight daily. An old house, that Many other hotels explicitly hang up signs banning sex
was once home to famous writers and artists, has now been tourists; many of these don't allow you to bring in any Thai la-
turned into a wine bar and tapas restaurant. The house sits dy (which can lead to an awkward situation if you just want to
on a large, turtle-filled pond and is surrounded by a tropical bring a friend or your Thai girlfriend), while others will allow
garden. Seating is available in the house, on lake-side gaze- them only if they are present with an ID card at the time of ini-
bos or in the garden. Note: Lake House is closed for the time tial registration.
being due to a recent storm, but will be reopened in Novem-
ber 2010.
Budget
Opera Riserva, 53/4 Sukhumvit Soi 39 (BTS Phrom Phong,
walk up into Soi 39 and take a left into Soi Phrom Chit; it is op- Atlanta Hotel, 78 Sukhumvit Soi 2 (BTS Phloen Chit),
posite Bio House and next to L'Opera), +66-2-258-5606, . +66-2-252-1650, . A dream from 1930s Los Angeles that ap-
5:30PM-midnight daily. Opera Riserva is located in con- peared in Bangkok in the 1950s, The Atlanta never quite los-
junction with L'Opera Italian restaurant, fairly deep down es the quality of a mirage, but the beds are solid enough.
Sukhumvit Soi 39. It can be a bit difficult to find for the first The rooms aren't in great condition, it's a long walk up to
time visitor, however those who do are rewarded with a the third and fourth floors, and the cleaning staff have sticky
large selection of wine. They range from the affordable to fingers. But every time you walk into the grand lobby or
the very exclusive of mainly Italian and French wines, and take a dip in the overgrown jungle pool out back (that's
also offer a selection from other countries. The Opera Riser- open 24 hours), you'll be glad you're there. And if you've
va wine bar is set on two levels with a dozen or so tables spent any time on Sukhumvit, you'll appreciate the "no sex
and a large bar on ground floor, and on the second floor tourists" sign out front. Rooms come with air-conditioning;
a more relaxed setting with several groups of leather sofas other amenities include two computers with internet (and
and some private rooms - one with a separate entrance for free WiFi if you've brought your own), a helpful travel desk,
those who prefer to come and go unnoticed. Clientle is a decent restaurant and plenty of room for left-luggage. 950
equally local and foreign, and local stars are often spotted baht.
here. (1344'12.62N,10034'16.13E)
HI-Sukhumvit (YHA Sukhumvit), 23 Sukhumvit Soi 38 (BTS
Thong Lo), +66-2-391-9338(-9), . A clean hostel with a nice
Nightclubs chill-out area and a friendly staff. You can choose to sleep
in a dorm or in a private room. All rooms come with air-con-
If it wasn't for the superhip nightclubs Bed Supperclub and ditioning, and breakfast is included in the price. 900-1100
Q Bar, Soi 11 would be quite an ordinary soi. But now it is baht, dorm 350 baht per person.
known as Bangkok's clubbing soi, and in part contributes to
Sukhumvit's image as the most cosmopolitan area of the city. Soi 1 Guesthouse, 220/7 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit),
An alternative is Soi 23, also home to some of the trendiest +66-2-655-0604, . This is actually one of the best backpack-
clubs in town. These venues are all about seeing and being er hostels of the Sukhumvit area. There are 4-bed and 8-bed
seen, popular among the well-to-do Thai and expat crowd. Soi mixed and female-only dorm rooms, as well as 3 or 4-bed
46
Districts Sukhumvit Sleep
private rooms (with shared bathrooms). All the rooms are are Mid-range
fully air-conditioned. The dorms have a very social atmos-
phere, so this is not just a place to sleep, but to actively meet
and hang out with other travelers (and the owner). Don't ex-
pect to actually catch some sleep here, people will turn on
the light and ask you to come along with them to party. If
that's not for you, then it's a good idea to take another hotel.
There is a 24-hour reception, common room, bar, pool table,
internet (1 baht/min). The WiFi, lockers and long term stor-
age are free of charge. 400 baht per person.
47
Districts Sukhumvit Sleep
Sukhumvit or facing north) as these have windows. Rooms old, the faucet needs to be fixed and the swimming pool is
without a window are 200 baht cheaper. 1200-1600 baht. small. As it is about 800 meters from the main road, it is qui-
eter and cheaper than other hotels. To make up for the dis-
Kingston Suites, 39/3-7 Sukhumvit Soi 15 (BTS Asok), tance, there is a complimentary tuk-tuk service that runs to
+66-2-120-8288, . Classic looking rooms and very spacious Sukhumvit Road 24 hours a day. 1100 baht.
with all the mod-cons expected. As it is off the main road, it
makes for a quiet stay. There's limited choice on breakfast, Royal Ivory, 73 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana),
but the buffet breakfast is still fine. Try a Martini while there, +66-2-656-7517, . This hotel is mid-way along Soi 4, but still
a hotel specialty. 1600-2000 baht. a ten to fifteen-minute walk from the main road. If you're
lazy to walk, there is the free shuttle service. The rooms are
Legacy Express, 29 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Phloen Chit, at the surprisingly spacious and quiet, which given its location is a
corner of the main road and Soi 1), +66-2-655-7474, . plus, but they look a little run down. Amenities include air-
This luxury hotel has 63 big rooms with jazzy colours, an conditioning and cable TV (with satellite TV channels). The
LCD TV and a bathroom. There is a 7-Eleven on the ground pool is small, but fine for a quick dip. The restaurant has a
floor as well as a small restaurant. "Short stay" also available. large TV screen, a pool table and serves good local food. Ob-
1300-2300 baht. viously its near the sleazy Nana Entertainment Plaza, so there
Livingstone's, Sukhumvit Soi 33 (BTS Phrom Phong, walk in- are lots of middle-aged Western men with bar girls around.
to Soi 33 and after 5 minutes the hotel is at the left-hand 1300-1800 baht.
side), +66-2-261-2800, . This boutique lodge on Soi 33 is Salil Hotel Sukhumvit Soi 8, 50, 50/1 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS
particularly good for the single male. It is close to the go-gos Nana), +66-2-253-2474(-7), . This is a small and stylish bou-
and hostess bars. It is very quiet and has a magnificent se- tique hotel in the Nana area of Sukhumvit. It has all the mod-
cluded pool. 1800-3200 baht. ern room facilities you'd expect, including TV, air-condition-
Majestic Suites, 110-110/1 Sukhumvit Rd (BTS Nana, at the ing and a water boiler (for noodles or tea). There's no lift,
corner with Soi 4), +66-2-656-8220, . This hotel is direct- so good luck carrying your luggage upstairs. Breakfast is in-
ly around the corner from Nana Entertainment Plaza and cluded. 1690-2500 baht.
close to the BTS station. The rooms are modern and well- Salil Hotel Thonglor Soi 1, 44/14-17 Sukhumvit Soi 53 (BTS
maintained, but some people may find the "single studio" Thong Lo, walk up Soi 53, then take a right into Soi Thong Lo
rooms for 1350 baht small. There is ample space for 100 baht 1 and then a left into a small street), +66-2-662-5480(-3), .
more in the "single superior" rooms. Free internet. Not to be This boutique hotel in the Thong Lo area has 40 luxurious
confused with the newer, larger and pricier Majestic Grande rooms that are decorated in color-vintage style. Amenities
nearby on Soi 2, although they share ownership and guests include air-conditioning, a fridge, free WiFi, LCD TV, DVD
at the Suites can get a pass to use the pool and health club player, hairdryer, mini bar and safe. It is close to Thong Lo's
at the Grande. 1350-2100 baht. BTS station and the party areas of Soi 55 and 63. Price in-
Nana Hotel, 21/4 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana, turn in- cludes breakfast. 1690-2190 baht.
to a small alley off Soi 4, across from the 7-11), Sawasdee Sukhumvit Inn, 123 Sukhumvit Soi 57 (BTS Thong
+66-2-255-2525, . The rooms are quiet, clean, pleasantly dec- Lo), +66-2-714-0703, . Sawasdee has many different dis-
orated, and serviced daily. There's a decent bathroom with count offers, it's quite a trouble to figure it out, but you might
hot water, refrigerator, in-room safe and TV. It is a decent save a few bucks. It is a basic no-frills hotel on the lower end
lower-end option, if you are not bothered by the nearby of the mid-range price category. It has 44 decent rooms with
hotspots for sex tourism, and staying in a hotel that also of- air-conditioning, a large bed and windows. They offer good
fers an hourly rate. Referred to as "The Mothership" in punter service and the atmosphere overall is relaxed. The coin-op-
circles. 1490-2390 baht. erated internet terminals in the lobby cost 10 baht for 15
On8 Sukhumvit ( ), 160/1-162 minutes. 1000-1200 baht.
Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), +66 2 254 8866, . A chic hotel Swiss Park Hotel ( ), 155/23 Sukhumvit Soi
in a convenient location near Nana station. Rooms are styl- 11 (BTS Nana, turn right just after the Grand Business Inn),
ish, modern and clean, though are a bit small. The staff is re- +66-2-254-0228(-9), . This is a well-managed hotel with clean
ally friendly, almost like a small family. The On8 cafe serves and comfortable rooms. Rooms numbered up to 6 on each
a decent breakfast and the menu (though small) is varied. floor are more desirable as they have a view, while the others
Plenty to keep you busy around the hotel with a night mar- look out onto a building site that seems to have ground to a
ket, spas, local restaurants and pubs. Free internet is includ- halt. Free WiFi in the lobby. 1400-2800 baht.
ed in the price. 1800-2200 baht.
FuramaXclusive Sukhumvit (formerly Unico Grande
Royal Asia Lodge, 91 Sukhumvit Soi 8 (BTS Nana), Sukhumvit), 27 Sukhumvit Soi 1 (BTS Phloen Chit),
+66-2-251-5514, . This is quite a simple hotel that just gets +66-2-655-3993, . This is a luxury boutique-style hotel close
the job done for a lower mid-range price. Furniture looks to both Ploenchit Road and Nana. It's amazing how much
48
Districts Sukhumvit Contact
luxury you get for the mid-range price tag. The rooms are pensive) medical tourism hospital in Southeast Asia. It fea-
very clean, as are the bathrooms. There are some nice ameni- tures 554 beds, 33 specialty centers and more than 1000
ties, including a fridge, air-conditioning and even an umbrel- doctors in many different disciplines. The hospital has over
la in the room. Breakfast is good. The staff is always grateful 1.2 million patients annually, of which about 430,000 are
to help. There is no pool, but there are two jazucci tubs. One from foreign countries. Many of them come here for surgery
of the best hotels in the Nana area, and often used by for- procedures that are cheaper at Bumrungrad than in their
eigners who need to rest after having visited Bumrungrad home country. Multiple languages spoken.
Hospital. 2200-4000 baht.
Samitivej Hospital, 133 Sukhumvit Soi 49 (BTS Phrom
King Park Avenue Hotel, 9/999 Moo 1, Srinakarin Rd (very Phong), +66-2-711-8000, . Another hospital where for-
far off from Sukhumvit Road, deep inside On Nut Road, eigners are welcome, this one is specialized in medical
close to King Rama IX Park. Bus 553 stops here), health check programs. The cheapest check-up program
+66-2-748-1035(-49), . The visitors use this hotel as it is about starts at 6500 baht, but more expensive check-ups go for
a 15-20 minute drive from the airport. There are some shop- 6500 and 10,000 baht.
ping malls and a large park nearby, but for the rest, its very
far off from Sukhumvit proper. It has recently been remod-
eled, which is a good thing. Rooms are good, beds are comfy,
breakfast is nice, and there's a friendly staff. 2300-4500 baht.
Get out
Villa Be your Guest, 24 Sukhunvit Soi 53 (BTS Thong Lo, ex- If you came here for Soi Cowboy and Nana Entertainment
it 1, turn right in Soi 53), +66-8-1637-9047, . Because it Plaza, Soi Patpong in Silom offers more of the same. If you
has only three rooms, the staff in this boutique hotel really just came out of Bed Supperclub and want to continue your
gets along on a personal level with their customers. It is in night the superhip way, Silom is also the way to go.
a serene environment close to the busy Thong Lo neighbor-
Unlike most foreign travellers, the locals tend to go out in
hood. 1,500-2,500 baht.
Ratchadaphisek. You might want to check out Royal City Av-
Woraburi Sukhumvit, 128/1 Sukhumvit Soi 4 (BTS Nana), enue (often abbreviated as RCA), an entertainment paradise
+66-2-656-7029, . This is a decent and clean lower-end hotel with bars, clubs and theaters, or one of Ratchada's popular
with a swimming pool. It is at the end of the soi, but that's 'sois'.
actually a good thing as it's quieter than other hotels in the
Quite similar to Sukhumvit and right next to it is Siam
area. If you order more night at once, they give you a dis-
Square, Bangkok's hippest shopping and entertainment dis-
count. Also, if you order from Booking.com, you can save 200
trict. It is only a 10-minutes Skytrain ride.
baht per night compared to booking from the hotel's own
website. 1050-2500 baht.
Splurge
Several of Bangkok's luxury hotels are concentrated on and
near Sukhumvit. To splurge in Bangkok is cheaper than you ini-
tially think. Your options include:
Contact
Sukhumvit is packed with Internet cafes, pubs and bars offer-
ing free WiFi and computer access at rates as low as 0.5 baht/
minute. Trying to print something will probably shed a whole
new light on your experience. Be wary of key loggers which are
reputedly an epidemic at Thai internet cafes. There have also
been cases where memory cards get infected with a virus when
plugged into an internet cafe computer.
Cope
Bunrungrad Hospital, 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 (BTS Nana),
+66-2-667-1000, . Probably the best-regarded (and most ex-
49
Districts Silom Understand
SILOM actually consists of just two small sois. These so-called "go-go
bars" might as well be called "takeaway brothels", but a trip
to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to this surreal envi-
ronment. But if you fancy something more upclass and tamer,
Understand Silom is also the place to be. Some of the expensive hotels in
the area cater to rich visitors that like to talk business over a
In the 19th century, daily life in Bangkok mostly took place on glass of wine. Having a cocktail at the top of the Banyan Tree
and around the canals. Silom was a rural farmland with rice Building or the State Tower gives some of the best views of
fields, orchards and windmills criss-crossed by canals. During Southeast Asia.
this era, most urban life happened on the riverside, which was
Orientation is fairly easy as most of the magic happens at Silom
a busy trading quarter welcoming European merchant ships
Road, especially where it intersects with Rama IV Road. Head-
and envoys. This area, known as Bang Rak, still has a kind of
ing west, it becomes kind of sleepy around the intersection
European atmosphere with many exclusive colonial-style ho-
with Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. The area starts to live
tels and old abandoned warehouses. Silom (windmills in Thai)
up again when you get closer to the river in the area known as
has changed immensely with the coming of modern times.
Bang Rak. Parallel of Silom Road lies Sathorn Road to the south
Charoen Krung Road (New Road) was the first paved road of
and Surawong Road to the north.
Bangkok, built in 1861 during the reign of King Mongkut (Rama
IV) at the request of foreign consuls who wanted to ride their
horses and carriages. Over time, most of the canals have disap-
peared and turned into roads. Get in
Map of Silom
50
Districts Silom See
Yan and Hua Lamphong. The metro ride from Sukhumvit or tors, unless you're going to the Tawandang Microbrewery or a
Hualamphong Train Station takes about five minutes, while the distant riverside hotel.
ride from Ratchadaphisek takes about ten to fifteen minutes.
Trains leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to
41 baht.
By train
Hualamphong Train Station, while technically right over the
By boat edge in Yaowarat and Phahurat, is very easy to reach from else-
where in the district. Just take the metro to Hua Lamphong sta-
If you're coming from Rattanakosin, Khao San Road or some ar- tion and the station will be right in front of you. From there,
eas of Yaowarat and Phahurat, the fastest way to reach Silom is getting a train is done in no time, and before you know it, you'll
by Chao Phraya Express Boat. A single trip from Chang pier in be heading for Ayutthaya or Chiang Mai.
Rattanakosin to Sathorn (Taksin) takes about 25 minutes and
costs around 18 baht. From here, you can transfer onto the
Skytrain's Silom Line and get to many destinations in Silom.
See
The river boat is the best way to get to and around the Bang Rak
area. Si Phraya in the north of Bang Rak and Sathorn (Taksin)
in the south are served by fast yellow flag boats. Oriental pier
is the most centrally located, but is only served by orange-flag
and no-flag lines. Wat Muang Khae is slightly north of Oriental,
but is kind of a sleepy pier only served by no-flag lines.
By bus
Due to heavy congestion and the complexity of the bus system,
getting to Silom by bus can only be advised if you have a lot
of time or are on a stringent budget. Being a part of Bangkok's
downtown, many lines run through Silom, but finding the Map of Central Silom
right one is a challenge. Ordinary and air-conditioned bus Traditional sightseeing attractions are rather rare on the
15 comes from Phra Athit Road and then passes Ratchadam- ground in Silom. A popular attraction is to have a drink on one
noen Klang Road (for Khao San Road), moves along Lan Luang of the rooftop bars with an amazing view over Bangkok's sky-
Road, Chakkaphatdi Phong Road and Bamrung Muang to Siam line. You could also head for Lumphini Park or visit one of the
Square. From there, it continues along Ratchadamri Road and twice-daily shows at the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm.
then goes all the way over Silom Road to Charoen Krung Road,
the Krung Thep Bridge and The Mall Tha Phra in Thonburi.
Skyline
From Yaowarat, catch bus 4 from Charoen Krung Road which
goes along Rama IV Road, passing Hualamphong Train Station While Silom's skyline doesn't match Hong Kong's or New
and the Queen Saovabha Institute Snake Farm before reaching York's, the views are still worth it. A part of Bangkok's sky-
the intersection with Silom Road. In the opposite direction, this line, most of Silom's towers are financial institutions and office
bus will skip Charoen Krung Road, passing Yaowarat Road in- buildings. The best way to enjoy Silom's skyline is by taking a
stead (which is a one-way traffic road). trip up the Banyan Tree Hotel or the State Tower. The 61st floor
of the Banyan Tree Hotel has the Vertigo and Moon Bar, where
The first line of the new Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) system starts you can dine or have a beer with one of the most spectacular
close to Chong Nonsi BTS station, where you can take the views of Southeast Asia. The State Tower iseven a few meters
pedestrian walkway to the first stop, Sathorn. From there, higher up than Vertigo which makes it the world's tallest
the line heads south along Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road. rooftop bar/restaurant. Due to its slightly off-center location,
When it reaches Rama III Road, it turns west along the Chao the views are arguably not quite as stunning, although it gives
Phraya River with Ratchaphruek in Thonburi its final destina- a great view of the Chao Phraya River. See the Drink section for
tion. As a commuter line, it is not of much use for foreign visi- more information about these rooftop bars.
51
Districts Silom See
Most of Silom's buildings are office buildings not meant to be mand to turn the area into a public park as a gift to Bangkok's
visited. Heading out to take a look at these office buildings can residents. The park's symbol, a statue of its creator Rama
only be recommended for those having a deeper interest in VI, stands at the main entrance at the southwestern corner,
modern architecture and/or the financial sector. Some notable right opposite MRT Si Lom station. The park has a lake with
office buildings that dominate the skyline include the CP Tow- boats for rent and with a cycle track around it, and is popular
er, Empire Tower, ITF Tower and the United Center Building, among early-morning fitness enthusiasts, but there's little
but the Robot Building has to be the quirkiest of them all. reason to wander in during the daytime heat. The Bangkok
Symphony Orchestra does, however, put on occasional per-
formances in the winter. Despite the above comments, there
are also rather large lizards/goannas in the place - they are
well worth a look. They tend to spend most of their time in
the water of the lake. Do not get too close to one, they can
BITE (if Aussie ones are any indication - and it usually gets
badly infected!) Free.
Historic buildings
Do the robot! East Asiatic Company Building (
), (right in front of Oriental pier). Right at the
Robot Building ( ), 191 Sathorn Tai Rd (BTS
banks of the Chao Phraya river is this classical Venetian-style
Surasak). Probably one of the quirkiest buildings on the
building from the Danish East Asiatic Company. It was built
globe, the Robot Building, well, looks like a giant robot.
in 1901. A large share of foreign trade that came from the
It was designed by Sumet Jumsai in the mid-1980s and is
warehouses had to go through this building before heading
meant to reflect the computerization of banking. It is an odd
for Europe. No public entry allowed.
building, and Jumsai has explicitly stated that it could be re-
garded as a reaction against high-tech postmodern build- Old Customs House, Charoen Krung Soi 36 (Oriental pier).
ings common in that time. The antennas and eyes of the ro- Right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, the Old Customs
bot are not just for the looks, but all have practical functions. House is right where the 19th-century port of Bangkok used
At that time no one really saw it, but now the building feels to be. Now it is a crumbling building which needs a lot of
kind of retro. It is closed to the public, but you can best see renovation to get back into a useful state, but its obvious
it from the Skytrain somewhere between Chong Nonsi and that this grand colonial-style home was once the pride of
Sala Daeng BTS stations. So look from the window! the area. It was built in the 1880s and used to levy taxes on
traders that moved in and out of Siam. It's not open to the
Parks public, but you can walk around and try to grasp the atmos-
phere of Bangkok in the 19th century. It was used in Wong
Lumphini Park ( Suan Lumphini), (BTS Sala Kar Wai's In the Mood for Love, a Chinese movie that's worth
Daeng or MRT Lumphini, between Rama IV Rd, Ratchadam- the watch. Free.
ri Rd, Wireless Rd (Wittayu) and Sarasin Rd). 5AM-7PM, daily.
A rare expanse of public greenery in the heart of the city, it
was once property of King Rama VI, who issued a royal com-
52
Districts Silom Do
Houses of worship Touted as the "queen" of drag shows, this ladyboy show per-
forms three times a day. A show takes one hour and has all
Silom lacks the impressive overload of Buddhist temples com- the glitz and glamour you would expect. Before it was locat-
mon in other districts. Wat Hua Lamphong and Wat Maha ed at Washington Square along Sukhumvit Road, but now
Phruettharam could be seen as exceptions to this, though they it has moved far off to the area around Rama III Road. You
are no must-visits by any means. However, due to the presence can take a picture with the performers when the show ends,
of the historic trade quarter, there are plenty of European-style but you will have to pay extra for it. Booking beforehand is
churches and old shophouses that can be visited. Also, the cur- recommended. 1000 baht.
rent Hindu and Muslim population has chipped in with the
Ruen Thep, 286/1 Silom Rd (at the Silom Village Trade Cen-
most important Hindu temple of Thailand on Silom Road, and
ter), +66-2-635-6313, . Showtime 8:20PM-9:10PM. In the
there are several mosques.
evenings you can catch this authentic performance of vari-
ous forms of traditional Thai dance. It is part of the Silom Vil-
lage Trade Center complex. It might be a good idea to make
Do a reservation by phone beforehand. 600-900 baht.
Due to many rich business travelers visiting Silom, it is an excel- Traditional Thai Puppet Theater ( ,
lent destination for high-class spas. Particularly well-regarded also known as the Joe Louis Theater), 1875 Rama IV
are the spas include Devarana (at the Dusit Thani Hotel), and Road (MRT Lumphini, inside the Suan Lum Night Bazaar),
the eponymous operations at Banyan Tree and the legendary +66-2-252-9683(-4), . Showtime 7:30PM-8:45PM daily.
Oriental the last of these probably being the most expen- The establishment of this theatre was inspired by Sakhon
sive in town, offering (among other things) a six-hour Oriental Yangkhieosot, or Joe Louis, who wished to preserve the
Romance package for two costing a whopping US$535. art of operating Hun Lakhon Lek puppets. In operating the
puppets, the puppeteers require basic skills of Khon perfor-
BODY Tune, 2F, Yada Bldg, 56 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit mance as they will have to move their footsteps and hand
3), +66-2-238-4377, . 10AM-midnight daily. Well-respected gestures to coincide with those of the puppets. Each pup-
small chain offering excellent traditional Thai massages. 350 pet is operated by three puppeteers, lending it lifelike move-
baht/hour. ments. Hun Lakhon Lek usually performs the story of Ra-
makian, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Sakhon Nat-
Deverana Spa, Dusit Thani Hotel Bldg, 946 Rama IV Rd (BTS
tasin is currently the only performing troupe of Hun Lakhon
Sala Daeng or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-636-3596, . 9AM-10PM
Lek in Thailand. The show is in Thai with translations into
daily. Easily the most luxury spa of the city in the Dusit Thani
English, and there is a segment where the puppets interact
Hotel. There are 15 treatment rooms, including five spa suits.
with audience members that is popular with children. There
Expect a very professional service and a beautiful modern
is also a corner inside the theatre where Khon mask making
interior. If you need to ask the price, it means you probably
is demonstrated, with a gallery of the Hun Lakhon Lek pup-
cannot afford it.
pets and their background. 3000 baht.
Historic Bangrak Food Tasting and Culture Tour, (meet at
BTS Saphan Taksin station, exit 3), +66-8-9126-3657, .
10AM-1PM daily. This is a culinary walking tour through Learn
Bang Rak that takes about three hours. The tour includes the
tasting of seven to eight menus from five local eateries, as BaiPai Cooking School, 150/12 Soi Naksuwan (far south
well as visits to local landmarks. Each participant is given a in a small soi off Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Road),
wireless earpiece for use during the tour. 950 baht. +66-2-294-9029, . Tu-Su 9:30AM-1:30PM, 1:30PM-5:30PM, M
closed. Participants will get to learn and enjoy the cooking
Lumpinee Boxing Stadium (), Rama IV Rd
lessons with genuine and traditional Thai recipes which are
(MRT Lumphini), +66-2-251-4303. Matches Tu, F 6:30PM,
properly and accurately transferred together with secrets,
Sa 4:30PM and 8:30PM. An enjoyable way to understand
tips and tricks. A nice casual cooking school with a nice mod-
more of Thai culture is by visiting a Thai kickboxing (Muay
ern design in the middle of the Yan Nawa residential neigh-
Thai) match. Foreigners pay 1000-2000 baht depending on
borhood. Their van will pick you up from your hotel or loca-
proximity to the ringside, while Thais can squeeze in for 230
tion in Bangkok, because it's not easy to find. Instructors are
baht. The matches take long though, and as the more inter-
fun and informative, and you get a souvenir printed photo
esting matches tend to happen at the end, you might want
(and one is even emailed to you). As classes are only given
to skip the first hour.
in the morning till the early afternoon, you still have the rest
Mambo Cabaret, 9/28 Sathu Pradit-Rama 3 Rd (near the Ra- of the day for sightseeing. 1800 baht.
ma III Rd and Sathu Pradit Rd intersection, between Rama III
Blue Elephant Cooking School and Restaurant, 233 Sathorn
Soi 57 and 59; take a metered taxi from BTS Chong Nonsi),
Tai Rd (BTS Surasak), +66-2-673-9353, . 8:45AM-1PM or
+66-2-294-7381(-2). Showtime 7:15PM, 8:30PM, 10PM daily.
1:15PM-4:30PM daily. Take classes from one of the most fa-
53
Districts Silom Buy
mous chains of Thai restaurants in the world. While the price all feels a bit deserted and empty. There are plenty of art ex-
is substantially higher than others in Bangkok, class takes hibitions held, Thavibu and Tang are the most interesting
place in the historic Blue Elephant restaurant, and while din- ones on contemporary Asian art.
ing on your creations, wine, extra dishes and dessert are
Silom Village Trade Center, 286 Silom Rd (BTS Surasak),
served. And they give you a Blue Elephant apron as well.
+66-2-235-8760, . 10AM-9PM daily. Supposedly the last tra-
2800 baht.
ditional Thai village on Silom Road, Silom Village is com-
Silom Thai Cooking School, 68 Silom Soi 13, prised of 15 teak houses as well as three buildings that were
+66-8-4726-5669, . 9AM-1PM or 1:40PM-6PM daily. A quaint constructed in 1908. The compound has been converted
cooking school in an air-conditioned environment. It is very into Thai handicraft shops, a restaurant and a hotel. It is a
clean and the instructor will have you frequently washing touristy theme market, but still a good place to look for sou-
your hands before preparing each dish. Cooking classes are venirs, handbags, handicrafts and furniture. Be aware that
given in the morning and afternoon. The setting is more like many items are fakes though. If you want to sleep at the ho-
a dinner party rather than a classroom cooking school. Def- tel, these are 1100-3500 baht per night. Expect simple rooms
initely worth a try. 1000 baht. for visitors on a budget. There is no breakfast or WiFi includ-
ed and the smell can be bad in some rooms.
54
Districts Silom Eat
ton shirt to a Crease Resistant Italian suit, Savile Row Com- restaurant is basically one lengthy bar where the guests sit
pany has plenty of options. The staff is very professional and next to each other waiting for their food to be done. 90 baht.
the quality of clothing is very good. Expect to pay around US
$300-450 for a suit.
Mid-range
Cafe India, 460/8 Surawong Rd (opposite Trocadero Hotel
Eat Building, near the intersection of Surawong Rd and Charoen
Krung Rd), +66-2-233-0419. Lunch 11AM-3PM daily, din-
Fancy restaurants, cafes, noodle shops and international chain ner 6PM-10:30PM daily. Has been serving up amazing Indian
stores line the streets around Silom Road. food since at least the war years. Many other old GI bars and
restaurants in and around Patpong are still in business and
worth visiting. Beware of some of the wraith-like vets who
Budget never made it home however. Some of these can be very dis-
turbing to encounter.
As Silom is a popular neighborhood with the locals, there are
enough places for cheap meals. For authentic Japanese food Edoya Japanese Restaurant (), 1F, Charn
at reasonable prices, pop into one of the many eateries on Soi Issara Tower I Bldg, 942/51 Rama IV Rd (BTS Sala Daeng
Thaniya. The Lalai Sap Market has some affordable seafood or MRT Si Lom), +66-2-233-0232, . M-Sa 11:30AM-2PM,
stalls (see Buy). 5:30PM-11PM, Su 5:30PM-11PM. One of Bangkoks oldest
and most reputable restaurants that has received visits from
Bang Rak defines the melting pot of Bangkok's cuisine. There
the Japanese Ambassador. A warm, friendly and traditional
are various ethnic eateries in that area, including Thai, Chinese,
style. Lunch sets 190 baht, meals 300-1000 baht.
Indian and Muslim cuisines. But you can also find plenty of noo-
dle shops, stewed pork with rice () stalls and roast- Ichimonji ( ), 9/34 Soi Thaniya,
ed duck with rice () eateries. As this is a poorer +66-2-235-7889. Buried in the depths of the soi, this is a typ-
neighborhood, dishes are served for no more than 80 baht. ical Japanese-style pub and eatery. Their set meals are de-
cent value, and English menus are available. 150-250 baht.
Momotarou Ramen House ( ), 9/19-21
Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng; at the end on the right Harmonique, 22 Charoen Krung Soi 34 (Oriental pier),
of the street if you are walking from Silom Road), +66-2-237-8175. While much more well-known by tourists
+66-2-235-0108. Simple budget eatery for some Japanese than in the past, it still has a unique atmosphere set in
noodles. There are no English signs outside, only a white a courtyard with three quaint town houses on the back-
sign with red Japanese signs. 70 baht. ground. It's food could best be described as a mix between
Thai and Chinese cuisine. 450 baht.
Nooddi (), 60/1 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng),
+66-2-632-7989, . A trendy chain of noodle eateries, offer- Queen of Curry, 49 Charoen Krung Soi 50 (Sathorn (Taksin)
ing a variety of styles (Thai, Chinese, Japanese) in air-condi- pier or BTS Saphan Taksin), +66-8-6559-7711. Known
tioned surroundings for less than 50 baht a bowl. Try the iced as one of the best restaurants of Bangkok, don't expect
tea; the "glass" is big enough for two! 40-60 baht. grandeur or expensive bills here. This modest restaurant
lacks any appearance, you might even see children do their
Prachak Restaurant (), 1415 Charoen
homework in the back. But the customers rave about the
Krung Rd (BTS Saphan Taksin, across the road from Robin-
food, which is stunning. They really are the queen of curries,
son; look for the red sign with the white duck on it),
which can only be described as some of the best in Thailand.
+66-2-234-3755, . 7:30AM-8:30PM. A very small restaurant
With great service for a small price, this is a true gem, though
that nevertheless managed to become famous by word of
more and more foreigners seem to know about it. You must
mouth. The owner is currently the fourth generation run-
try the green chicken curry, or ask the friendly staff for a rec-
ning this restaurant that is more than one hundred years old!
ommendation. 150-300 baht.
No fancy banners, or even an English sign, just good food
that is well known among the locals. Ordering is no problem Red PInn, 120/20 Soi Pramote 3 (around the corner from Hol-
as the menus have pictures shown. It is famous for its duck, iday Inn Silom; walk about 200 meters into Mahe Sak Rd,
but get there early before it runs out. They also serve some then take a right into the first small street on the right),
good pork and noodle soup. 60-150 baht. +66-2-235-80-41, . 11AM-10PM. This home cooking restau-
rant has some nice peasant food from around the world, in-
Shin Emon, 56 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng; one soi down
cluding Northern Europe. Besides being a restaurant, it is al-
from the main Soi Thaniya towards Rama IV Road),
so a nice place to kick back a German lager. There are some
+66-2-632-8180. This Japanese restaurant specializes in
Japanese curry rice, which is really delicious. They also have
other Japanese dishes, such as tamako udon and ramen. The
55
Districts Silom Drink
big screen TVs, a pool table and free Wi-Fi. Also, they also sarongs and chopsticks just makes the sex shows going on in
have rooms available for 1100 baht/night. 150-680 baht. every open door seem that much more surreal.
Souvlaki, 114/14 Silom Soi 4 (BTS Sala Daeng; on the left Prepare to be harassed by touts armed with laminated 'menus'
hand side as you enter the soi, before Telephone Pub), of acts you can order up. If you follow the touts, you might end
+66-2-632-9967(-8), . 11AM-1AM daily. One of the few Greek up spending a ton of money on drinks to watch sad looking
restaurants in Bangkok, this serves some reasonably good girls perform unhygienic acts with various garden-party acces-
food, including a somewhat odd shaped souvlaki and lots of sories (lawn darts, ping pongs, etc etc) in one of the upstairs
ouzo. 150-250 baht. bars. While seemingly cheap at first, be prepared to pay thou-
sands of bahts when the girls flock to you with drinks in their
Sushiko (), 9/11-12 Soi Thaniya (BTS Sala Daeng or hands, as you'd have to pay for them. The bill comes to you
MRT Si Lom; on the right side of the soi if coming from Silom within minutes and the dispute could become violent.
Road; right next to the 7-Eleven), +66-2-255-9505(-4).
11AM-midnight daily. A decent mid-range eatery right in the If you instead try one of the bars on the lower level, you can
middle of the Japanese Thaniya neighborhood. The interi- safely watch girls dancing on stage, but will occasionally be
or looks neat and modern and is in a typical Japanese style. asked by one of the girls if you could buy her a drink. She will
There is no English sign outside. 120-700 baht. get upwards of 50% of the drink price as a bonus and will join
you at your table for some conversation in exchange. As a rule
Splurge of thumb, only trust bars that already have a fair number of
customers; a drink should not cost more than 130 baht or so.
The Chao Phraya riverside hotels (see Sleep) have the usu- Note that all the go-go bars in Patpong close by 1AM sharp!
al splurge restaurants with overpriced menus, although The
It must be said that Patpong has changed remarkably over the
Oriental's dinner buffet (2000+ baht) is acclaimed.
years. While it used to be just a sleazy den of go-go bars, the
last years a lot of visitors came to the area just to see what the
fuss is about. It is not unusual to see families walk through the
Drink area with their children in the early evening. The locals found
a way to make money from this new group of curious tourists:
There's more to Silom's nightlife than just Patpong, but can a an enormous night market stocked with overpriced souvenirs
visitor say they've been to Bangkok without at least a quick that takes up the whole road and even spills over to the sur-
peek into the 'Pong? rounding area (including Silom Road). See the Buy section for
more information on the night market.
Soi Patpong King's Castle III, Soi Patpong 1 (BTS Sala Daeng, left side of
Soi Patpong 1 if coming from Silom Road). 7PM-1AM daily.
The place to go gawp at kathoeys (ladyboys) strutting their
stuff. Prepare to tolerate a few invasions of personal space,
but it's all in good fun. No surprises on the bill. Drinks 100
baht.
You might want to take a deep breath and down a few shots
before heading into the insanity of Patpong (, Phat-
phong), which in fact consists only of two small sois (Patpong
1 and Patpong 2). It's a short walk from BTS Sala Daeng station,
deserted by day but jam-packed and overflowing in all direc-
tions by night. The throngs of middle age tourists shopping for
56
Districts Silom Drink
Soi Thaniya phobic. Most drinks are 100 baht (be careful with spirits, the
bartenders don't measure anything and tend to over-pour,
sometimes badly), or buy a bottle of spirits from 1000 baht
up and get free mixers. Spread over three levels, the ground
floor has a big dancefloor, the second floor attracts "money-
boys" and their admirers (but these are by no means the ma-
jority), and the third floor is the place to escape if you can't
move (if you can get there). Opening hours vary but usually
closes between 2-3:30AM. Entry fee is 100-200 baht includ-
ing 1-2 drinks.
57
Districts Silom Sleep
10AM-1AM daily. For nice live bands and good service, try downhill, but it's still your best bet for cheap accommodation
this authentic English-style pub. The beers and food are a in the area.
little pricey by Thai standards, but the place at least has
Malaysia Hotel, 54 Soi Ngam Duphli (MRT Lumphini),
free WiFi. Happy hours on weekdays are between 5PM-8PM,
+66-2-679-7127(-36), . The Malaysia Hotel used to be an in-
while on Saturdays on Sundays they are between noon-8PM.
stitution in Bangkok; it was Bangkok's most famous budget
Molly Malones Irish Pub (formerly Irish Xchange Pub), Si- accommodation in the whole of Bangkok. Those days are
bunruang Bldg, 1/5-6 Convent Rd (BTS Sala Daeng), long long gone, now it turned into a seedy gay pick-up hos-
+66-2-266-7160(-1), . 9AM-1AM daily. This is quite a large Ir- tel with massage parlor. Their 119 rooms are decent value
ish pub with two floors. Its large expat audience mostly sips though, as they are fairly large and have air-conditioning,
Guinness, but there are also other beers on tap. Excellent hot-water bathrooms, Internet access and a swimming pool.
daily lunch buffets and daily Happy Hour specials. Also an 800-1500 baht.
All-You-Can-Eat 'Sunday Roast' from noon to 7PM. Satellite
Sala Thai Daily Mansion, 15 Soi Saphan Khu (MRT Lumphini;
TV sports and live music area are available.
off Soi Sri Bamphen), +66-2-287-1436. Probably the best
O'Reilly's Irish Pub, 62/1-4 Silom Rd (BTS Sala Daeng, exit 1), guest house in the Soi Ngam Duphli area with 15 small, but
+66-2-632-7515(-19), . 11AM-1AM daily. It is on the corner clean, basic rooms. It is at the end of a very quiet soi. Rooms
with Soi Thaniya, but actually still located along Silom Road are private, but toilets and hot-water shower sare shared.
itself. Live music starts around 9PM. At Tuesdays and Thurs- Nice rooftop terrace too. 300-600 baht.
days, Johnny Deschamps, a kind of Thai Frank Sinatra per-
forms, while Wednesdays are taken by the band Vertigo with Elsewhere
their blues, pop and soul sound.
HQ Hostel Bangkok, 5/3-4 Silom Soi 3 (Phiphat Rd) (BTS
Chong Nonsi, next to Bangkok Bank Headquarters),
Beer gardens and microbreweries +66-2-233-1598, . HQ Hostel Bangkok is a boutique accom-
modation for backpackers and budget travelers ideally lo-
Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German cated in the middle of Silom. It is within walking distance of
Beer Hall), 462/61 Rama III Rd (BRT Phraram 3), all major attractions and the transport network. Rooms in-
+66-2-678-1114(-6), . 5PM-1AM daily. Tawandang is a very clude air-conditioning, and there are free WiFi and internet
popular German microbrewery, mostly among upper-mid- computers available. 380 baht.
dle class Thais. It also has good food at reasonable prices,
and a good stage show with many acts and fun music. It can Lub d Bangkok, 4 Decho Rd (MRT Sam Yan, then quite a walk
be a hard to find, but is well worth the trip. Most taxis will through Si Phraya Rd), +66-2-634-7999, . This hostel is
know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger- designed by famous hotel designers. It offers 8-bed dormi-
man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Also only a few tories, ladies-only dormitories, private rooms for 1-2 people
stops on the new BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) from Chong Non- and normal double bed hotel rooms with a private bath-
si (ask fellow passengers where to get off). Reservations rec- room. All rooms are clean, comfortable and have air con-
ommended, especially on weekends. ditioning. There's a TV room, free WiFi and free use of the
nine internet terminals and luggage storage. There are do-
it-yourself laundry services for around 60 baht. The colorful
Superhip bar offers breakfast, snacks and beverages until midnight (2
Note that fairly strictly applied dress codes apply to all of the beers for 100 baht). Booking is cheaper if done via the web
following, so no flip-flops, shorts or sleeveless shirts. compared to just walking in. 400-700 baht.
58
Districts Silom Contact
tel, it is close to Silom Rd, the river, and various public trans- Splurge
port networks. Rooms are nice and clean, and feature air-
conditioning and a fridge. The hotel has a pool and a spa, The Bang Rak area at the Chao Phraya river has some of the
and prices include breakfast. 1400-2000 baht. world's best hotels, including Mandarin Oriental and Shangri-
La (another contender for this title is The Peninsula, right at the
De Arni Bangkok, 68 Surawong Road (BTS Sala Daeng or
other side of the river in Thonburi). Splurge hotels can be found
MRT Sam Yan), +66-2-235-7373, . The rooms offers air-
all along Silom Road and Sathorn Road, and many of them cater
conditioning, an Internet connection, mini-bar, fridge and
to business visitors.
safe. Some of its amenities include dry cleaning, laundry ser-
vices and ample parking spaces. There is also a restaurant.
1280-3840 baht.
Contact
LUXX, 6/11 Decho Rd (BTS Chong Nonsi),
+66-2-635-8800, . This boutique hotel offers the holistic con- Finding WiFi in Silom is just as easy as finding a girl in Patpong.
cept with its 13 individually designed rooms and suites. Nearly every hotel has free WiFi for their customers (except,
Rooms are designed as studio units equipped with cable perversely, some of the more expensive ones, where you have
television, coffee and tea making facilities and mini bar. to pay extra), or available for everyone in the lobby. Many of
Suites are structured as one bedroom units with stylish out- them also have Internet terminals available. If you're just visit-
door views, LCD-television, personalized DVD players, mi- ing, many cafes and restaurants offer free WiFi, including the
ni-kitchen and sofa corners. All rooms have WiFi, and bath- Duke Of Wellington and other English pubs.
rooms with hot and cold water. 1800-3200 baht.
59
Districts Rattanakosin Understand
RATTANAKOSIN the Grand Palace. Just like in Ayutthaya, part of its compound
is dedicated to a royal temple, Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred
temple of Thailand home to the Emerald Buddha. Most people
hop on the express boat and spend a full day taking in these
Understand shimmering beauties. Walking between the sights is a blast,
and can be easily done if you carry a bottle of water for the oc-
casional cool-off.
History
The Rattanakosin-era was the fourth Thai Kingdom, after the
Sukhothai, Ayutthaya and Thonburi Kingdoms that preceded Get in
it. When the powerful Ayutthaya Kingdom was destroyed and
burnt down by Burmese armies in 1767, a small period of chaos
and Burmese occupation ensued the lands of Siam. The resis-
tance was led by General Taksin, a capable military leader that
defeated the Burmese within one year and established the new
Siamese capital in Thonburi, right across the Chao Phraya riv-
er from Rattanakosin. Instead of just conquering back Siam, he
also took hold of Western Cambodia, almost the whole of the
Malay Peninsula, Lanna (modern Far Northern Thailand) and
Laos.
One of his first actions was to move the capital across the By boat
river, from Thonburi to Rattanakosin. According to him, Rat-
tanakosin had a more strategic location, as he turned it into an The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express
artificial island with the the Chao Phraya river in the west and Boat. Besides a relatively quick and convenient way of travel,
man-made canals in the east. Chinese merchants occupied the it is also a much more enjoyable than looking at cars stuck in
area at that time, but they were moved outside of the new city traffic while inhaling exhaust gases. The wind from the river is
walls to the area now known as Yaowarat. King Rama I restored a relaxed way to cool down from tropical temperatures, too.
the social and political system of the Ayutthaya period, even
imitating that city's layout and architecture in Rattanakosin If you're coming from downtown, you can take the Skytrain to
including the Grand Palace, which building plan closely resem- Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto the express boat. A
bled that of the Grand Palace in Ayutthaya. Even the bricks single trip from Saphan Taksin to Tha Chang (near the Grand
from the ruins in Ayutthaya were moved downstream to be in- Palace) takes about 30 minutes and costs 13 baht. Other no-
corporated into the new capital's grand scheme. table stops include Tha Tien (for Wat Pho), Phra Athit (for Khao
San Road) and Thewet (for Dusit). It is best to take the orange
flag boats, as yellow flag boats miss out all all stops except Tha
Orientation Tien.
As the district has been the result of careful 18th-century urban From Tha Tien (Wat Pho), you can take a ferry shuttle to Wat
planning, orientation in Rattanakosin is fairly straightforward. Arun, across the river at the Thonburi side. Ferries leave every
Like Ayutthaya, the focal point of the area is Sanam Luang, a 10 minutes for just 3 baht. As many students from the univer-
wide open royal field and the site of many ceremonies and fes- sities live across the river in Thonburi, there are plenty of oth-
tivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding this field er commuter ferries that cross the river. Tha Chang has ferries
60
Districts Rattanakosin See
to Wat Rakung and Wang Lang (Siriraj), Tha Phra Chan has fer- You could spend weeks visiting temples in Bangkok, but as
ries to Wang Lang (Siriraj), Thonburi Railway and Phra Pin Klao most visitors only spend a couple of days in the city, it is im-
Bridge, and Thewet has a ferry to Wat Kharubodj. portant to choose the ones that are especially beautiful, sacred
and culturally significant. The Grand Palace is not just a palace,
Eastern Rattanakosin (roughly the area around the Golden but also includes Wat Phra Kaew, the most sacred temple of
Mount) is served by the Golden Mount Line of the Saen Saep Thailand. It is a must-see for every visitor of the city, and the
Express Boat service. If you happen to be in that area, using the palace grounds are so large that you have to spend at least a
canal boat is the quickest way to get to Siam Square, Sukhumvit full morning walking through the complex. Beside the Grand
and Ramkhamhaeng. The stop closest to the Golden Mount is Palace, most travelers visit Wat Pho, probably the largest reclin-
Panfa Leelard, from which there are direct services to Pratu- ing Buddha statue in the world, and Wat Arun, a large prang
nam pier. There you could switch onto the NIDA Line, that that is beautifully decorated with blue and white ceramics (it
runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboonreung is technically at the Thonburi side of the river, but is easily vis-
in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to Pratu- ited using the ferry from Tha Tien pier). These top three attrac-
nam takes about 20 minutes and costs 12 baht. On the trip, tions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. Oth-
you will pass the stops Talad Bobae (for the garment market er prominent temples are Wat Saket and the Golden Mount,
of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for Jim built at an artificial hill with a nice view over the city, and Wat
Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) and Suthat and the Giant Swing at the eastern side of Rattanakosin.
Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong). Wat Ratchanadda, Wat Thep Thida Ram, Wat Intharawihan, Wat
Ratchabophit and Wat Ratchapradit could be considered off
By bus the beaten path and give a more authentic experience.
While not as chaotic as downtown, bus travel here is still not Bear in mind that for all temples you must be dressed appro-
a good idea. However, as other good public transport options priately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk be-
are limited, bus travel can be the fastest way of travel from ing denied entry, although some places will offer rental para-
downtown (though this is heavily depending on traffic). The chute pants for a small (refundable) deposit. The temples play
road around Sanam Luang is one of the city's bus hubs, but as an important role in Buddhist traditions. Monks wake up ear-
it is a circular road, it is quite hard to find out where the bus is ly in the morning and perform the daily alms ritual between
going. It is a better idea to get on the bus in front of Tha Chang 5AM and 7AM (called tak bat ). Monks line up in front of
pier (near the Grand Palace). the temple accepting donations from the people, most of them
food and daily necessities such as rice, soap, candles, soda cans
and even toilet paper. By giving, Buddhists believe that these
good deeds will bring luck later in life or in the life beyond this
See one. The best temple to experience the alms ceremony is Wat
Benchamabophit in Dusit. At one of the Buddhist markets, you
can buy a bucket filled with products to give to the monks (see
Buy).
61
Districts Rattanakosin See
Grand Palace
Temple guardian inside Wat Phra Kaew
Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the Grand Palace
( Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) is the for- Wat Phra Kaew (), formally Wat Phra Si Rattana
mer residence of the King and is built adjacent to, and more or Satsadaram (), is the
less integrated with Wat Phra Kaew (also known as the Temple most sacred Buddhist temple of Thailand. While construction
of the Emerald Buddha). The palace was originally built togeth- of the temple was completed in 1784, it has a sanitized ap-
er with the establishment of Bangkok by King Rama I and has pearance as if it was built only yesterday. The temple houses a
been expanded ever since. It covers a wide range of architec- diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, of uncertain but
tural styles, ranging from a pure Ayutthayan style of the tem- long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state.
ples to a blend of Thai and Western for later structures. While According to the legend, it was created in India in 43 BC after
the king no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used which it was taken to Sri Lanka, Cambodia and eventually Si-
for royal residences and ceremonies and is off-limits to tourists. am. Art historians, however, describe the statue as belonging
to the Chiang Saen style of the 15th century, concluding it must
Combined entry is a steep 350 baht, plus an optional 200 baht have originally come from Lanna (current Northern Thailand).
for a two-hour audio guide; Thais get in for free. Your tick- It was taken to Luang Prabang in the current state of Laos in
et includes entry into the Dusit Palace in Dusit (valid for sev- 1552, and moved to Vientiane twelve years later. In 1779, in
en days). The Grand Palace is open every day from 8:30AM to the Thonburi period, General Chao Phraya Chakri captured Vi-
4:30PM, with the last tickets sold at 3:30PM; it cannot be said entiane and returned the Emerald Buddha to Siam. When he
enough, do not believe any scammers who attempt to con- was crowned as King Rama I, he moved the Emerald Buddha
vince you otherwise. It is best to attend the Grand Palace dur- to its current location in Rattanakosin. Visitors line up around
ing weekdays, as some throne halls are closed in the weekends the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with
for ceremonial purposes. Be aware that a strict dress code ap- offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes be-
plies for visitors to the palace. Ladies must cover their upper fore entering the bot, and taking pictures inside is not allowed.
arms and legs down to the thigh, while men must wear long Also show respect by sitting with your feet pointing away from
trousers and at least a t-shirt. Sarongs can be borrowed for free the Buddha. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a
at the entrance, but you must leave a deposit. On some holi- year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in
days the dressing room may be closed, in which case you can the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins after
rent clothes across the street for a fee. Thais seem to follow the tour.
even tighter dressing regulations, such as wearing black dur-
ing royal funeral ceremonies, but they understand it when for- Continuing the tour, the temple actually consists of a series of
eigners do not follow those. courtyards full of chedis and buildings all in different sizes and
colors. Some buildings are in gold, some are decorated with
It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to broken porcelain and there are smaller wats containing Bud-
roll in, so getting an early start might be a good idea! There dhas of various poses and sizes. Also check out the enormous
are free English tours four times a day, just look for the sign mural of the Ramayana that decorates the exterior wall. Other
after you pass the ticket gate. The palace grounds can easily be interesting structures include the group of eight prang towers,
explored on your own though. Visitors are corralled along a set the Sri-Lankan style Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor
route. First you'll walk through Wat Phra Kaew with the Grand Wat, the Royal Pantheon, among others.
Palace itself coming right after.
62
Districts Rattanakosin See
The palace buildings this palace is used for the lying-in-state; the body is kept here
while waiting for an auspicious date for cremation. The in-
side is only opened on weekdays. It houses the Phra Ratcha
Banlang Pradap Muk, a wooden throne beautifully decorat-
ed with mother-of-pearl inlaid work. The beautiful Aphorn
Phimok Prasat Pavilion next to the building served as the king's
mounting platform and as a changing room for royal proces-
sions.
63
Districts Rattanakosin See
Buddha images, more than any other temple in the country. Other temples
The temple as it appears now comes from the late 18th-cen-
tury, right after the founding of Rattanakosin, when King Ra-
ma I almost completely rebuilt the complex. He renamed the
temple Wat Phra Chetuphon (), as Thais still call
it today, but the new name never really caught on in the West.
Another major revamp took place in 1832, when in the reign
of King Rama III new chapels were added and walls and pillars
were decorated with inscriptions on traditional medicine. Wat
Pho is often cited as Thailand's first university, as even before
the temple's founding, the site was a center of education for
traditional Thai medicine.
The Wat Pho complex is cut in two walled compounds with Soi
Chetuphon separating them. The southern compound, Tuk-
gawee, is barely visited as it is a working Buddhist monastery
with monks residing there. The northern compound can be di-
vided into an eastern courtyard and a western courtyard. Bus-
loads of tourists get in using the north entrance at Thai Wang
Road, stand in line to get a quick peek of the Reclining Buddha,
and head off. That's a mistake. Better take the south entrance
at Soi Chetuphon, which actually is the main entrance. From
there you can start exploring the complex while missing out on
most of the tourist crowds. The admission fee is 50 baht, and it
is open from 8AM till 5PM. You can arrange an English-speak-
ing personal guide provides you with interesting information
of the complex. It costs around 200-400 baht, depending on
the size of your group (and your negotiation skills).
you find these Westerners scarier than the guardian demons Wat Arun (), 34 Arun-Amarin Rd, Bangkok Yai,
protecting Wat Phra Kaew! When Thai ships exported rice to Thonburi (take the cross-river ferry from Tien pier), .
China, they brought these statues back to compensate for the 7:30AM-5:30PM daily. Wat Arun, often called the Temple of
loss of weight. The entrance brings you into the eastern court- Dawn, is located on the other side of the Chao Phraya river in
yard, which is dominated by the bot. To get to it, take a right Thonburi, you can find more information in that district arti-
from the entrance and then take a left into the bot. There are a cle. It can most easily be accessed using the three-baht ferry
total of 91 prangs and chedis that surround the bot. The lions from Tha Tien pier at the Rattanakosin side of the river (near
at the entrance of the bot are Burmese in design. On top of the Wat Pho). The temple is a distinctive large prang intricately
altar of the bot is a Buddha image in Ayutthayan style. inlaid with Chinese white broken porcelain. At 88 meters in
There's plenty of other sights and activities inside the large height, it was also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the
temple complex; above all, try a massage (as described in the advent of the modern skyscraper. It is one of Bangkok's best
Do section) or sign up for a five-day course in the massage known landmarks and a must-visit. 50 baht.
school at the back (see in the Learn section). Wat Ratchabophit (), 2 Fuang Nakhon Rd (near
In the western courtyard, you'll quickly stumble upon the Re- Saranrom Park), +66-2-221-1888. 5AM-8PM daily. Built by
clining Buddha gold plated, 46 metres long, 15 metres high, King Rama V in 1869, it was created to keep up with the tradi-
with inlaid mother of pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and tion that each newly-appointed monarch erected a temple
definitely one you must have seen on your trip. On the back to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and West-
side of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50-satang coins and ern styles, as the exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but
plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good the interior copies the regal style of European monarchies.
luck. A major feature of this wat is the Royal Mausoleum on the
west side of the temple grounds, which includes four white
memorials in which the ashes of four Queens of King Rama
V are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grand-
64
Districts Rattanakosin See
mother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk
in eastward from the road. Free.
65
Districts Rattanakosin See
of November, the mount is illumated with colored lanterns Rattanakosin Period when the Second King even got its own
and the compound turns into a large funfair. 10 baht. private army and navy. This large amount of power often led
to conflicts between the King and the Second King. The last
Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing to bare the title of Second King was Prince Vichaichan. In
(), 146 Bamrung Muang Rd (walk 1884, he got into a power struggle with King Rama V in an
south from Democracy Monument along Dinso Road, event known as the Front Palace crisis. King Rama V tried to
as Bamrung Muang Road itself has no sidewalks), modernize Siam in a rapid pace, and conservative forces and
+66-2-222-0280, . 9AM-9PM daily. This wat is becoming the nobility, including Prince Vichaichan, saw their power
more and more off the beaten path as it is quite hard to walk and influence being slowly eroded. When Prince Vichaichan
here from the Grand Palace. Wat Suthat is huge and actually got a letter threatening his life, he mobilized up to 600 of
one of the most important temples for the Thai people. It's his private troops around his palace. The King also mobi-
large size was needed as it was constructed in the early 19th lized his troops, but this only underlined that the Second
century to house the huge Phra Sri Sakyamuni Buddha im- King's guards were more numerous and better equipped.
age, brought all the way down from Sukhothai by boat. The After an explosion, a mysterious fire broke out in the Grand
outer wall of the cloister has more than 150 Buddha images Palace, threatening Wat Phra Kaew, and the Second King's
lined up, and as they are currently being re-gilded, they are troops got on their way to the Grand Palace to try and ex-
in various states of repair. Outside is an open courtyard with tinguish it; however this was blocked by the King's Royal
many Chinese statues. The Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha) is Guards who feared that the fire was orchestrated by the Se-
a huge red frame on the plaza opposite the main entrance cond King to take over the country. Afterwards King Rama V
of Wat Suthat. The swing was used in an annual ceremony criticized the Second King for not moving all his troops to the
where teams of young men would try to swing high enough Grand Palace, as an ancient custom dictated that the Second
to retrieve a sack of gold that was tied to a pole about 25 King's troops must actively protect the King and the Grand
meters high in the air. The ceremony has been banned since Palace in an emergency. King Rama V ordered his troops to
1932, as many people got injured or died trying. The swing surround the Front Palace, and Prince Vichaichan fleed to
was fully renovated in 2007 and now looks as good as new. the British embassy. After mediation, the powerful Western
20 baht. countries supported King Rama V, who abolished the title
Wat Thep Thida Ram (), Maha Chai Rd (walk and introduced the Western-style "Crown Prince of Siam" for
south along Maha Chai Road from Wat Ratchanadda and the the heir apparent. Prince Vichaichan died one year later. The
temple will be at the right-hand side), +66-2-222-5067. palace was turned into the National Museum's main build-
8AM-5PM daily. The temple was built in 1836, during the ing housing Thai art objects. Some walled remains of the old
reign of King Rama III. Like other temples from the third Front Palace complex can be found inside the Thammasat
reign, it has a Thai layout, but is combined with a mixture of University complex. 200 baht.
Chinese architectural styles. The gables are decorated with Tha Phra Palace (), 31 Na Phra Lan Rd
Chinese porcelain pieces and there are Chinese statues all (close to Chang pier, opposite the Grand Palace),
over the complex. Unfortunately, the temple is in desperate +66-2-623-6115-21, . 9AM-7PM daily. Just outside of the
need of renovation. Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand's great- Grand Palace, Wang Tha Phra Palace is now a part of Sil-
est poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood in the pakorn University, where many artists started their career
early 1840s. The quarters where he spent three years of his in the arts and humanities. In August 2010, Tha Phra Palace
life are preserved at the rear of the compound, and might be celebrated its 200-year anniversary since its founding, and
turned into a museum. In 1986, UNESCO declared Sunthon many home-grown artists were invited to make a paint-
Phu one of the world's greatest poets. Free. ing about it. King Rama I built the palace for his nephew
Prince Kasattiyanuchit, and since then, it has been a res-
Palaces idence of many high-ranked princes, including King King
Rama III who lived here when he still was still known as
Front Palace ( Wang Na), Na Phra That Rd (between Prince Krommuen Jesadabodin. The last prince to live here
Thammasat University and the National Theatre, opposite was Prince Naris, who moved out in 1934 when the palace
Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, . W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols was turned into an art school. The palace is a combination
closed. Now the central building of the National Museum, of Thai and European-style buildings. Just walking around
the Front Palace used to be an enormous complex stretch- the campus is a fun activity, as usually there are some art
ing from the Chao Phraya river across Sanam Luang to Lot projects by students going on. 50 baht gets you into the li-
Canal. It was built in the 18th-century, along with the Grand brary, which has plenty of English-language books about the
Palace. The Front Palace housed the heir to the throne, who Grand Palace, art, culture, religion, architecture and travel.
was appointed by the King; usually a son or brother of the Also in the Wang Tha Phra compound are the Silpa Bhiras-
reigning monarch who bare the title "Second King" or "Vice- ri National Museum and the Art Centre Silpakorn University.
King". The title of Second King started in the Ayutthaya Pe- Free.
riod, but gained a significant amount of power during the
66
Districts Rattanakosin See
National Museum ( ), Na
Phra That Rd (between Thammasat University and the Na-
tional Theatre, opposite Sanam Luang), +66-2-215-8173, .
W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. The National Museum took
over the Front Palace grounds, a former royal palace built
in the 18th-century just like the Grand Palace. The grounds
are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to
navigate. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag there
are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history,
but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts
without much by way of explanation. A good way to cope
with this is by taking the free guided tour in English, held
on Wednesdays and Thursdays at 9:30AM. Allow a full after-
King Prajadhipok Museum
noon to see this one as it is fairly large. 200 baht.
King Prajadhipok Museum
Silpa Bhirasri National Museum (
(, also
), (Chang pier; inside Silpakorn University
known as the King Rama VII Museum), 2 Lan Luang Rd (at the
complex), +66-2-223-6162. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed.
foot of Phan Fa Lilat Bridge at the corner of Lan Luang Rd),
This museum is dedicated to the "father of modern art" of
+66-2-280-3413(-4), . Tu-Su, hols, 9AM-4PM. The building
Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci. He founded
is designed by the French-Swiss architect Charles Beguelin
Silpakorn University, the best art and humanities school of
in 1906 in a neo-classical style that popular with King Rama
Thailand. Many of his works are on display throughout the
VI and King Rama VII. It was renovated by the King Prajad-
city, including the Democracy Monument and the statues of
hipok Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collec-
King Taksin, King Rama I and King Rama VI. This museum is
tion of King Rama VII's personal belongings, including pho-
located in the building where he lived and made his designs.
tographs, documents and his biography. King Rama VII ruled
Free.
in a turbulent time of Thailand's history; he was the last King
who enjoyed absolute monarchy, as well as the first King un-
der a constitutional monarchy. Significant events and stories Art galleries
relating to King Rama VII are exhibited, including his succes-
Art Centre Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang
sion to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promul-
pier; opposite the entrance of the Grand Palace),
gation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia,
+66-2-623-6120(-1418), . M-F 9AM-7PM, Sa 10AM4-4PM, Su
as well as his life after abdication and death in the United
closed. The exhibitions on show here are created by art stu-
Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre that
dents, teachers and university artists from Silpakorn Univer-
used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films
sity, the country's first art school. The exhibitions change of-
being projected. 40 baht.
ten, and the only way to find out what's on is by walking in.
Museum of Siam (), 4 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien
pier, near Wat Pho), +66-2-225-2777, . Tu-Su 10AM-6PM,
M closed. The recently renovated European-style mansion
67
Districts Rattanakosin Do
Sometimes the art centre is closed when the building is used and 8:30PM-midnight. When the locals want entertainment,
for university meetings and summits. Free. they head to the stadium for some Thai boxing! Or Muay
Thai, as the Thais call it. It is very expensive though, expect
National Gallery ( ), Chao Fa to pay 1000 baht for an outer-ring seat, 1500 baht for a mid-
Rd (from Phra Chan, walk north on August 16 Road, through dle-ring seat and 2000 baht for ringside seats. Thais chip in
the university complex, then walk under the Phra Pin Klao for 230 baht. A match includes eight fights with a maximum
Bridge and turn right into Chao Fa Road), +66-2-282-2639. of five rounds each, so make some time free in your sched-
W-Su 9AM-4PM, M-Tu, hols closed. Housed in the former ule. The area around the stadium has some of the best places
Royal Thai Mint, it is fairly small and compact. Obviously a to get Isaan food, as television host Anthony Bourdain has
matter of taste, the permanent displays could be described shown in his program "No Reservations". 1000-2000 baht.
as quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art ex-
hibitions can be considerably more appealing for foreigners. Wat Po Massage, 2 Sanam Chai Rd (Tien pier),
Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. 30 baht. +66-2-221-2974, . 8:30AM-6PM. A good way to combine re-
laxation and understanding Thai culture is by taking a tradi-
The Queen's Gallery, 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd (Phan Fa tional Thai massage inside the Wat Pho temple compound.
Lilat pier; opposite Mahakan Fort and Wat Ratchanadda), Thai massage is considered a medical discipline in Thailand,
+66-2-281-5360(-1), . Th-Tu 10AM-7PM, W closed. This pri- used for the treatment of many kinds of illnesses. The mas-
vately funded gallery was established after the request of sages are given in the dilapidated buildings at the east of the
HM Queen Sirikit who wanted a permanent venue for the northern compound. Take a two-hour Thai massage for best
exhibition of Thai arts. The gallery has four floors of contem- results, or try a foot, oil or facial massage. 400 baht/hour.
porary and modern arts, including paintings, sculptures, au-
diovisual arts and even furniture arts, most of them created
by students. Many paintings use elements of traditional Thai
life and religion and place them in a contemporary setting. Learn
Taking pictures without using the flash is allowed. There is
also a reading room and a cafe. 20 baht. Being the historic center of the city, Rattanakosin is great place
to learn meditation, yoga or how to give a traditional Thai mas-
sage.
68
Districts Rattanakosin Buy
them the photos are for the Thai massage certificate (photo ling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots.
processing might take some hours). Really all else you need There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.
to bring is comfortable clothing body jewelery must be
Phra Chan Market, Phra Chan Rd (Phra Chan pier). The is a
taken off. The massage schools puts foreigners in a separate
small clothes market. Most t-shirts have a kind of postmod-
English-speaking classroom where the instructors have a fair
ern pop-art style, which are popular with the local art stu-
grasp of English. Prepare for an Asian style of teaching
dents. There are also women clothes, sneakers, accessories
they teach you what to do without often explaining the rea-
and the like. For food, there are simple lunch restaurants in-
sons why, however if you question them, they will tell you. It
side the pier building, where you can sit right beside the
is best to study five days consecutively, but there is scope for
Chao Phraya river for 50 baht a meal and water. These are
having a break in the middle. Lunch is provided for 30 baht
mostly used by locals, so bring a phrasebook. A small indoor
and is of good quality, but can be low on quantity if there
shopping area can be reached from Mahathat Road, where
are lots of students. The Thai massages are conducted with
you can have an American or get some iced chocolate.
you wearing all your clothes. At 8AM in the northeast corner
of Wat Pho, the massage school teaches Thai yoga. This is Rachini Night Market, Rachini Rd (near Mae Toranee Stat-
free to attend, and you do not need to pay an entrance fee ue). When dust kicks in, the night market at Rachini Road is
to get into the courtyard if you are a massage student. 8700 set up. It starts around 6PM, but only gets interesting after
baht/5 days. 8PM. The market has been at the roads surrounding Sanam
Luang for years, but was moved to its present location in
2010 when Sanam Luang was sealed off due to construc-
Buy tion work. It's a bit like a flee market as locals put a blan-
ket on the ground and wait for customers to buy their sec-
ond-hand stuff. Expect toys, dolls, pets, shoes, bags, pants,
Markets mobile phone chargers, remotes, and other junk kept at the
attic. All the sellers place lamps so it's easy to browse around.
With all the glitzy shopping malls in Siam Square, shopping in
Rattanakosin is more traditional. Like in Khao San Road, street
markets are virtually everywhere, but those in Rattanakosin are Religious markets
more authentic. Sure, plenty of tourists roam around the area,
Rattanakosin is the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets
but as most street markets are set up for the locals, a phrase-
and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among
book might come in handy. Expect all day markets to close in
the most authentic ones, as they are meant for faithful Bud-
the early evenings.
dhist locals instead of the tourist masses.
Bobae Market, Bobae Tower, 488 Damrong Rak Rd (Bo-Be
Amulet Market, Maha Rat Rd (near the Grand Palace). If
Market pier, off Krung Kasem Road), +66-2-628-1888, .
you're on a budget, the amulet market in front of Wat Ma-
6AM-6PM daily. Bobae Market is a bit like Pratunam it's a
hathat might be a better option. Along the side of the road
huge garment market with wholesale prices! You must buy
are dozens of vendors selling amulets, and you can get one
in bulk as that gives the best deals. And just like Pratunam,
for as cheap as 5 baht! Better looking amulets cost around
it has its own Saen Saep Express Boat pier, so it's easy to get
20-100 baht, or as much as you want to spend on it.
to. The nearby Bobae Tower has 700 shops that sell the same
clothes as on the market, but caters to those looking for sin- Bamrung Muang Stores, Bamrung Muang Rd (walk east-
gle items. Prices are somewhat higher, but at least you are wards from Wat Suthat). The road along Wat Suthat has plen-
able to fit your buys in your suitcase! Not a lot of foreigners ty of stores selling religious items. Awesome human-sized
know about this place, though Russians seem to have found Buddha images are on sale here, but don't even think about
out about it (as the Russian signs indicate). bringing those on the plane! You can also get item-filled
buckets here to donate to monks. These buckets contain dai-
Carpentry and Wood Stores, Boriphat Rd (at the back entry
ly necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste,
of the Golden Mount). The northern end of Boriphat Road
candles, etc. Be careful when shopping here as the road is
is lined up with carpentry and wood stores. These are very
lacking sidewalks in some areas!
skilled workers, just take a look at the detailed patterns they
create in the wooden doors! Taking one home is probably Wat Ratchanadda Buddha Center, (southeast of Wat
stretching your airline's 20 kg baggage limit though. Ratchanadda, can best be accessed from Mahachai Rd).
Probably the largest religious market of Bangkok with more
Lang Krasuang (), Atsadang Rd (behind
than one hundred stalls selling everything a good Buddhist
the Ministry of Defense and the Supreme Court). The name
would need. You can find thousands of tiny Buddha images
literally means "behind the Ministry" and refers to an area be-
here, as well as Hindu figures, in all colors, shapes and sizes.
hind the Ministry of Defense on Atsadang Road, which runs
along Lot Canal. On sale are military items such as uniforms,
territorial defense student uniforms, shoes as well as travel-
69
Districts Rattanakosin Eat
Ban bat area, Krua Khun Kung, which is well-hidden inside a small alley
at the ATM machines.
During the alms ceremony in the morning, in which monks at
If you're looking for some better places to eat on the island,
their temple receive donations of the people, the monks usu-
walk east to the area bounded by Democracy Monument in
ally carry big bowls for receiving the donations. These bowls
the north and Wat Suthat in the south. There are many small
are known as 'bat' and have been made by hand for centuries.
restaurants there where the locals have lunch. Some restau-
As factories took over the production of these bowls, most of
rants have assembled around Tanao Road and Trok Nawa.
the communities that made a living of producing them have
Khao San Road is just as close to the main sights though, so you
vanished.
might want to grab a bite there.
Elle Tha Pra Chan, 172 Wat Maha Rat Rd (from Chang Pier,
Eat take a left into Wat Mahathat Rd and after 100 meters it is on
the left-hand side), +66-2-623-5750. 9AM-5PM daily. This
is one of the few decent restaurants (and bakery) near the
Grand Palace. It is actually right at the Wat Mahathat Amulet
Market. It doesn't have an English sign on, but it's not that
hard to find. Menus are in English, and have pictures shown
with them, so just point to the dish of your choice. It has the
typical Thai dishes as well as some Italian pastas. Many art
students from the nearby Silpakorn University have lunch
together here, so expect it to be very crowded (and noisy)
around noon. 70 baht.
70
Districts Rattanakosin Drink
Thip Samai excels exactly at that. It's in business for longer all be visited on foot. Unfortunately, the hotel doesn't have
than 50 years and known as the best place in Thailand to get a pool. 4000-4900 baht.
pad thai (Thai fried noodles). You can choose between seven
Boonsiri Place ( ), 55 Buranasart Rd (from
different types of pad thai, the cheapest one is only 30 baht.
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, walk south into Buranasart
The best one is the 'pad thai song-kreung' with crabmeat,
Road and you'll find the hotel on the left side after 250 me-
cuttlefish, shrimp roe, prawns and fried egg. Wash it down
ters), +66-2-622-2189(-91), . Just a five-minutes walk south
with some sliced coconut juice. 30-100 baht.
of Khao San Road, this hotel is hidden in the back-alleys
of Rattanakosin. The rooms are very clean, as are the bath-
rooms. Breakfast selection is adequate, but not anything
Drink special. It conveniently has a 7-Eleven on the ground floor.
1000 baht.
Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from the Grand Palace,
cross the road, turn right and it will be on the left side after Chakrabongse Villas, 396 Maha Rat Rd (close to the Museum
100 meters), +66-2-225-2680. 10AM-6PM daily. This cafe of Siam), +66-2-224-6686, . An absolute splurge accom-
with an old Western-style interior is in a good place to fresh modation, these are three private apartments in an amaz-
up after a hike through the Grand Palace. Obviously you can ing garden setting with a riverside view at Wat Arun. The vil-
get coffee and tea, but an iced chocolate might be a bet- las are beautifully decorated and furnished with dark wood,
ter choice. Also, it has air-conditioning! It is a family-run cafe silk and teak floors. Amenities include air-conditioning and
with just five tables, but that gives the place its cozy and re- a small pool. Very expensive though. 5000-25,000 baht.
laxed atmosphere. For around 70 baht, they also serve sim-
Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel, 204-206 Maha Chai Rd (just
ple Thai dishes, but don't expect big portions.
north of the Maha Chai Rd and Bamrung Muang Rd intersec-
Na Phra Lan Cafe, 18 Na Phra Lan Rd (Chang pier; from tion), +66-2-221-4442, . This is a great hotel as it is close to
the Grand Palace, cross the road, turn right and it will be most attractions and to Khao San Road, while still in a quiet
on the left side after 100 meters), +66-2-221-2312. M-Sa folk neighborhood. Walking to the Grand Palace takes about
10:30AM-10.30PM, Su 10:30AM-6PM. Popular cafe among 30 minutes over some larger roads, but you can easily hail
art students from the nearby Silpakorn University. At day- taxis. There are private rooms and dorm rooms with four to
time it's a nice place for a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. Af- six people on it. Rooms are clean and decent, and the interior
ter dusk, many students come here to drink beer in large is in an interesting colonial style. The vintage coffee shop of-
amounts. fers good quality coffee and Thai tea. Free Wi-Fi is available.
1200-1890 baht, dorm 440 baht per person.
Rub Aroon (), 310-312 Maha Rat Rd (Tien pier; op-
posite from Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2312. 10AM-6:30PM dai-
ly. Professional looking European-style cafe, but without an
English sign. Nice place to fresh up after having visited Wat Contact
Pho. Its front opens directly onto the street with seats on the
Getting online in Rattanakosin is not an easy task. There are not
sidewalk. The atmosphere is relaxed and there are some sim-
a lot of Wi-Fi hotspots or Internet cafes, but as Khao San Road
ple Thai dishes on the menu.
is nearby, you might just want to head in that direction. The
canteen of Thammasat University has an open WiFi signal, but
connection quality varies. Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel is a nice
Sleep place for sipping coffee, and also has free Wi-Fi available for its
customers.
Rattanakosin is overflowing with sights, but finding accom-
modation is a challenge. Budget guest houses are clustered If you want to send mail, there is a post office close to the Grand
on nearby Khao San Road, while Silom, Siam Square and Palace in the middle of Na Phra Lan Road.
Sukhumvit have plenty of upscale hotels. Most travelers sleep
in those districts as they have lots of options for accommoda-
tion. If you insist on staying in Rattanakosin, choice is limited, Get out
but there are some options available.
Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the sur-
Aurum, 394/27-29 Soi Pansook (Tien pier; a sidestreet of Ma-
rounding districts offer plenty of activities, stores, restaurants
ha Rat Road, next to Wat Pho), +66-2-622-2248, . If you
and nightlife.
want a more cultural stay than the hotels in Khao San Road,
this boutique hotel is an excellent alternative. River view Wat Arun, at the other side of the river in Thonburi, is a
rooms have a very romantic view over the Chao Phraya river stunning temple decorated with leftovers from broken Chi-
and the beautiful Wat Arun temple. The top three sights can
71
Districts Rattanakosin Get out
Don't throw away your entry ticket to the Grand Palace! Use
it to get a free entry into the leafy Dusit Palace in Dusit
(valid for a week). Its prime sight is the Vimanmek Palace, but
you could spend your whole day there if you wish. It is 15
minutes by bus 70 from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (near
Democracy Monument).
72
Districts Khao San Road Understand
Get in
KHAO SAN ROAD
Understand
The word khao san itself means milled rice and is an attribution
to the historical role of this street in the rice trade. The first busi-
ness to open on Khao San Road was a small hotel aimed at serv-
ing civil servants from the provinces who came to Bangkok on
business. The hotel was followed by Sor Thambhakdi, a shop
selling monks' accessories. Four similar businesses moved in af-
ter, and Khao San became known as a "religious road".
The most important piers are Tha Chang (for the Grand Palace),
Tha Tien (for Wat Pho) and Rachawongse (for Yaowarat). All
lines attend Sathorn (Taksin) pier, where you can transfer on-
to the Skytrain. From here, you can go to Silom, Siam Square,
Sukhumvit and Phahonyothin. The Chao Phraya Express Boat
stops running around 6PM or 7PM depending on the day, so
you'll have to rely on other forms of transport in the evening.
73
Districts Khao San Road See
Mount and Wat Ratchanadda. There you can get on the Golden Interchange, where you can catch a free shuttle bus to the ter-
Mount Line, which is a direct boat service from Panfa Leelard minal. This bus may be local, but often it is just as fast as the
to Pratunam. At that pier you can switch onto the NIDA Line, tourist bus used to be.
that runs from Pratunam all the way northeast to Wat Sriboon-
reung in Ramkhamhaeng. A single trip from Panfa Leelard to
Pratunam takes about 20 minutes and costs 11 baht. On the
By taxi
trip, you will pass the stops Talat Bobae (for the garment mar- Even some of the metered taxis will try to charge you a flat rate
ket of the same name), Sapan Charoenpol, Baan Krua Nua (for of about 200-300 baht to take you to Khao San Road, rather
Jim Thompson's House), Sapan Hua Chang (for Siam Square) than use the meter (which would mean no more than an 80
and Pratunam (for Pratunam and Ratchaprasong). baht fare from Silom, or 100-150 baht from Sukhumvit). The
drivers will claim that Khao San Road is "too far away" for the
By bus meter, but that's not true; the fact is, they can get away with
overcharging tourists, and if you don't take it, the next schmuck
The bus system in Bangkok is very complex, but as Khao San down the street might. You should refuse to pay that amount
Road is not connected to the Skytrain, for some destinations and find an honest driver there is no shortage of taxis in
you don't have a choice. Some useful bus lines for travel to/ Bangkok. There is no point trying to haggle, as the meter is al-
from Khao San Road include the following: ways cheaper.
74
Districts Khao San Road See
75
Districts Khao San Road Do
Do Buy
Activities on Khao San Road are not particularly high class.
Many backpackers just chill out in a cafe and watch reruns of
Friends while sipping a cold Chang beer. People-watching is al-
so a major activity; this can be done in many roadside bars and
pubs along Khao San Road. When all this becomes too stress-
ful, there are plenty of massage parlors around.
Learn
May Kaidee's 2 Cooking School, 33 Sam Sen Rd (near the
intersection with Sam Sen Soi 1), +66-8-9137-3173, .
9AM-1PM, 1PM-5PM daily. A vegetarian and vegan cooking
school in the Sam Sen area north of Khao San Road. You'll
shop at the local market to pick fresh ingredients and learn
meat-free traditional Thai recipes (as well as unique food Banglamphu Market
such as the delicious pumpkin hummous). The owner has Obviously the first place to go shopping is Khao San Road it-
been an experienced vegan cook for many years and has a self. Beside the usual tourist crowd, plenty of locals come here
recipe book available for purchase. Those interested need to for shopping as well. Simple stores line up the street selling
give at least a day or so advance notice (if lucky, you can just dresses, shirts, skirts, accessories, shoes and bags, usually for
try to show up at the morning session and they might let you a bargain. Many of these are in vintage style, as that's popular
in). The school also has a restaurant with many vegetarian among the Khao San crowd. There are also the usual souvenir
dishes and as a guest house attached to it. 1200 baht/day. and handicrafts stores.
Sor. Vorapin Gym Muay Thai School, 13 Trok Kasap (at the Hill tribe women dressed in ethnic clothing walk up and down
end of a dusty alley off Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-3551, . Khao San Road all day, usually with croaking sounds that come
7:30AM-9:30AM and 3PM-5PM daily. If you dare, you might from their ornamental frogs. They approach tourists all day, try-
want to learn muay thai (Thai boxing). Beginners and walk- ing to sell them stuff like accessories, hammocks and ethnic
ins are welcome. Shorts and gloves are provided at the handicrafts. They are quite friendly, and back off with a clear
course. The English instruction may not be too detailed, but "no", but once they know you're interested, many of these sell-
key phrases like "punch", "kick", and "one-two" are in place. ers congregate around you hoping to make some profit.
Wear protection though! If this all gets a bit too heavy for
you, it's also possible to sit outside and watch the train- Always beware of getting ripped off. Never buy anything valu-
ings take place. Saves you 1000 baht on an actual muay thai able in this area as there are many scams and tricks being
match! 400 baht. played. Khao San Road is home to many wholesale silver jewel-
ry stores, but don't even think about buying there. A common
scam is to ask a lot more for a gem than its real value. Touts for
suits approach all men walking along Khao San Road, but nev-
er go with them getting tailored clothes in Khao San Road
is a complete waste of money as quality is extremely poor. If
you really want a suit, head to downtown for better alternatives
(see Silom for more information).
76
Districts Khao San Road Eat
77
Districts Khao San Road Drink
of Rambuttri Road. The bar can get very crowded on Fridays University's "Faculty of Jazz". Very popular among the locals,
and Saturdays. Not just foreigners know about this place, but foreigners do not seem to know about it. It has recent-
there are many Thai locals who visit it as well. A Chang beer is ly enlarged and now has two live music stages, one upstairs
70 baht, but the locals seem to be drinking bottles of scotch and one downstairs. It's best to come around 9PM as that's
(or cocktails). when the night really starts to kick in.
Center Khao Sarn ( ), 80-84 Khao San Molly Bar, 108 Rambuttri Rd (on the road that runs par-
Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road's south side), allel to Khao San Road in the north), +66-2-629-4074.
+66-2-282-4366. Open 24 hours. Easily the best spot for peo- 1PM-1AM daily. There's a really relaxed vibe in this colo-
ple-watching on Khao San Road. It's probably the largest nial-style bar, that has been around for quite some time now.
venue, in the middle of the street, with its seats right beside In the evening, there is a band playing in the corner; don't
the road; and it's always open. It's a great place to chat, sip a expect a quality band, but the live music does give this bar
beer and lose track of time. There's also a pool table and sim- its laid-back feel. There are lots of seats outside, so it is a nice
ple dishes are served. And if you run out of money, there's alternative for people-watching along Khao San Road. And
an ATM at both sides of the bar. there's a lot to see, as a diverse group of customers attend,
including locals.
Gulliver's Traveler's Tavern (
), 2/2 Khao San Rd (at the corner of Khao San Road Mulligans Irish Bar ( ), 2F, Buddy's Shop-
and Chakrabongse Road), +66-2-629-1988, . 11AM-1AM ping Plaza, 265 Khao San Rd (inside the Buddy Shopping
daily. Nowadays one might associate this kind of bar more Plaza), +66-2-629-4477, . Open 24 hours. Opened in 2009,
with Sukhumvit, however this is actually the first Gulliver's this Irish pub has a daily promotion between 8PM and 2AM,
and it is right at Khao San Road. It is a sports pub with bil- when a large beer or a cocktail sets you back 110 baht. The
liards, and being well-known among the backpacker com- area downstairs is relaxed, and right beside the road, so a
munity, this is a place to swap stories. Beer is at rather steep great place for talking and people-spotting. There is no mu-
prices for Khao San though, around 150 baht a pint. They sic downstairs, but the atmosphere is still good as soft music
also offer some mid-range priced Western food. The atmos- comes from the other side of the street. Upstairs is a large
phere is quite relaxed at daytime, while it gradually turns in- Irish pub. There are often live performances there or you can
to a rather wild dance party as the night wears on. just play the arcades.
Hippie de Bar, 46 Khao San Rd (follow the Tom Yum Kung Reggae Bar, Trok Mayom (where Trok Mayom meets Dam-
neon sign), +66-1-820-3762. 11AM-1AM daily. Psychedel- noen Klang Nuea Road), . 3PM-1AM daily. Nice relaxing al
ic interior with mismatched furniture, but not really hippie fresco atmosphere where you can get a cold beer and some
style. Outside is a nice place to chill with a beer or cocktail. smokes while listening to Bob Marley all day. DJ Chicken per-
It's a bit off the main street, so no noise from there, but the forms, so you're in for a good night. You can also just watch
reggae and tropical music are a bit too loud for a casual con- football at the big screen or play some pool. At daytime on-
versation. ly the small street side front of the bar opens, so you might
want to kick in after dinner.
Sabai Bar, 197 Khao San Rd (at the mouth of the Sunset Street
complex), +66-2-282-5893, . 8AM-2AM daily. This Thai and
Western bar and restaurant offers a good view on the road.
Its interior looks modern and there are many black and white
cushions you can sit on. It's a relaxing place to just sit, relax
and knock back a few beers or cocktails.
78
Districts Khao San Road Sleep
packed with customers who want to have fun till the early Nightclubs
night. It is touted as having the best view on the road, but
this is not entirely the case. The bar's location inside a small
alley makes it harder to see the road, although the balcony
still does a decent job. There is a DJ playing in the evenings,
and the music is at a good level, allowing you to talk with
other people. They also serve simple Thai dishes.
Tak Sura (), 156/1 Tanao Rd (walk south along Tanao Sleep
Rd from Ratchadamnoen Klang Road; it will be at the right af-
ter about 200 meters, and you have to walk through a small Khao San Road is Bangkok's main backpacker drag. Cheap new
alley first; there's only a Thai sign up), +66-2-622-0708. guest houses spring up and disappear on a monthly basis,
6PM-1AM daily. While the locals at first weren't interested in therefore accommodation is hard to recommend, but there is
the dingy foreigner ghetto known as Khao San Road, over always something available for a small budget. As hipsters and
time it has gained status among Bangkok's indie and artsy upper class folks have been starting to discover the road, it is
types as the place to hang out. Tak Sura is one of those places more and more becoming an area that has accommodations
where the locals go most of them art students from Sil- for every price class.
pakorn University. The place is located in a mansion that's
easily one hundred years old; but most people just sit out- Before checking into an unfamiliar place, always ask to see a
side on the white patio furniture. room first, and don't be afraid to test the fan or the air-condi-
tioning if you think you will need it. Some Khao San Road guest
houses do not accept Thai guests, or any extra guests at all in
some cases.
79
Districts Khao San Road Sleep
Budget Road. Some rooms are cleaner than others, so inspect before
checking in. There's a wide range of rooms, including single,
double and triple rooms with either fan or air-conditioning.
Beside a guest house, it is also a restaurant, travel agency
and internet cafe. 410-590 baht.
80
Districts Khao San Road Sleep
they are fairly clean. Try this place if you're just looking for a room even if you have already paid for it beforehand. There
cheap place to sleep. It has a nice cafe/restaurant attached is also no WiFi or communal area. 750-880 baht.
to it. They have nice Thai and Western food, such as pizzas,
Sawasdee Smile Inn ( ), 35 Trok Rong Mai
and it is set in a garden environment. 350-550 baht.
(from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap and take a
New Merry V Guesthouse ( ), left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-2340, . This hotel has
18-20 Phra Athit Rd, +66-629-0462. A good low budget op- a unique colonial architecture, with more than one hundred
tion for the budget conscious traveler. Its aging rooms are rooms available. Sawasdee Hotels is a big chain with plen-
divided into fan, air-conditioned and "deluxe" rooms, the lat- ty of other locations as well. Things can get impersonal, the
ter are more expensive, have a TV and don't face the busy cleanliness is so-so and rooms are very basic and small. It
street. Don't confuse this one with the other Merry V, which really is for backpackers only, who do not have a lot of de-
is in the middle of Soi Rambuttri. 200-550 baht. mands. There are other hotels in the area that offer bigger
rooms, more amenities and better service for a similar price.
New Siam II ( 2), 50 Trok Rong Mai (in Trok 400-680 baht.
Rong Mai, right around the corner from Soi Rambuttri),
+66-2-281-7461, . One of the best hotels in the Soi Rambuttri Sawasdee Welcome Inn ( ), 5-7 Trok
area. It is just enough off the main drag to be quiet, but still Rong Mai (from Chakrabongse Road, walk into Trok Kasap
very close to the action. They advertise as having the largest and take a left into Trok Rong Mai), +66-2-629-3308, . This
rooms for the price, and they seem to be right. The rooms is a decent guest house that is quiet, as it is off the busy
are clean and are well-maintained, and the staff is friendly. Soi Rambuttri, but still close enough so you can walk there.
There are safe boxes in some rooms and lockers downstairs. Rooms are dark, and you get nothing more than a bed and
The restaurant menu is basic and the food not too exciting, a sink. Don't expect English-speaking staff either. 300-880
but the sofas are good to meet people. 690-840 baht. baht.
Penpark Place, 22 Sam Sen Soi 3 (a fair hike inside Soi 3), Siam Oriental Inn ( ), 190 Khao San
+66-2-281-4733, . This hotel is quite far from Khao San Road, Rd (in the middle of Khao San Road), +66-2-629-0312, .
but on the plus side, that's why this hotel is in such a peaceful Nice, clean and quiet rooms, both fan and air-conditioned,
environment. It is a clean and quiet place with a nice garden all with a private bathroom. There's a lively restaurant, an in-
and river view at the rooftop. Rooms are quite large with a ternet cafe where you can surf the web for 1 baht per minute
wide window. High-speed internet and free WiFi available. A and a photo-processing store. Other amenities include laun-
good place to relax, meet friends, and to have an early-morn- dry, where you have to pay by kilogram, and luggage stor-
ing coffee. 450-750 baht. age. 280-500 baht.
Rainbow Guest House ( ), 43 Star Dome Inn ( ), 104/1 Rambuttri Rd (in the
Chakrabongse Rd (opposite Gazebo Bar), road that runs parallel to Khao San Road in the north),
+66-2-280-6648, . This place is basic, but its priced for it. +66-2-629-1136, . All rooms have a private bathroom with
They have air-conditioned dorm rooms that are good val- cold water. Hot water is only available in the more expensive
ue. Amenities include free WiFi, nice Indian food and beer, rooms. Internet is available for 60 baht per hour and there
and free private security lockers for all guests (you can use are laundry facilities. The inn is next to a disco/pub, so expect
your own padlock or borrow one of their's). The noise can be excessive noise in the lower floor rooms. 400-600 baht.
troublesome though for the private rooms in the front near
Thai Cozy House ( ), 111/1-3 Tani Rd (at
Gazebo Bar, but the dorms in back are quieter. 150 baht.
the Tani Road and Sip Sam Hang Road intersection),
Rambuttri Village Inn ( ), 95 Soi Ram- +66-2-629-5870(-4), . Family-run guest house with decent
buttri (in the middle of Soi Rambuttri), +66-2-282-9162, . rooms that have cable TV, fridge, air-conditioning and hot
Quiet series of uninspired buildings with small rooms, its shower. Ideal location just far away enough from the crowds,
main draw is its relaxing rooftop swimming pool. Howev- but close enough to the action. They also have plenty of oth-
er, their website neglects to mention that it shuts down at er services, including a restaurant, travel agent and internet.
6PM despite alluring photographs suggesting otherwise. Its 550-1000 baht.
rooms range from basic fan rooms to "deluxe" air-condi-
tioned rooms. Biggest issue is the staff. If you have a prob-
lem, neither staff nor management will care about com-
Mid-range
plaints nor will they offer refunds or compensation, even if There are several mid-range hotels in the area, with swimming
it is the hotel's fault. They require a 1000-baht refundable pools, mini bars, etc. Mid-range covers a wide spectrum, from
key deposit that can only be paid in cash (Thai baht only). If decent three-star hotels to upper class guest houses. Phra Athit
you cannot produce the deposit, they will not let you in your Road is a good place to start looking, its location right beside
the Chao Phraya river made it home to some more luxury ho-
tels.
81
Districts Khao San Road Cope
82
Districts Khao San Road Get out
Be sure to read the Stay safe section of the main Bangkok article
for other scams you should look out for.
Get out
Famous sites within walking distance from Khao San Road in-
clude the Grand Palace (with Wat Phra Kaew), Wat Pho, Wat
Arun, Sanam Luang, Wat Ratchanadda and the Golden Mount.
See Rattanakosin for details. There are also some more adven-
turous options:
83
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Understand
YAOWARAT AND
PHAHURAT
Understand
Compared to the rest of the city, this district is fairly compact
and can best be explored in a full-day (and night) walking tour.
You'll come across street markets, shop houses, gold shops,
beautiful remnants of colonial-style architecture and some in-
teresting temples. Instead of tramping from temple to temple, Phahurat Road
this neighborhood is mostly about catching a brief peek in-
to commercial Bangkok as it has been the last two centuries. Phahurat is centered around Phahurat Road, which starts im-
Rushing through won't be rewardingtake your time instead, mediately west of Sampeng Lane. It is crossed by Chakphet
sitting at a plastic chair and watching local traders sell their Road and Tri Phet Road, both major roads that have to cope
wares. As the street markets are not targeted to foreigners, with the immense traffic coming from the Memorial Bridge.
you will find a wide array of products: ceramics, fabrics, gold,
tacky teenager ware, ant-killer chalk, Bollywood movies, gin- History
seng roots. Who knows what you'll end up with at the end of
the day. It is best to come during weekdays, as many stores Yaowarat is one of the oldest Chinese communities in Thailand.
close during the weekends. Also keep in mind that most shops The story of the Chinese in Bangkok starts in the late 1700s,
close at 5PM after which most of the area gets pretty much de- when poor peasants from China's Chaozhou region (in Eastern
serted (Yaowarat Road being a noteworthy exception). Guangdong) moved to the Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin.
They came to Siam to find work in Thonburi at the other side
of the Chao Phraya River (which at that time was the capital of
Orientation the country). The Chinese were requested to move outside the
Orientation in Yaowarat is even trickier than elsewhere in city walls when King Rama I set up his new capital in the Grand
Bangkok. The area is filled with narrow alleys and obscure Palace area in 1782.
pedestrian-only routes, and is crossed by a few giant roads that
feel like small highways. Finding your way around isn't made
easy as road signs are blocked by the bulk of neon-signs and Get in
other merchandise that sellers hang up to attract customers.
The perfect map for the district still has to be created, so adapt
to the situation and expect to get lost often. Also take note that
alleys often bear the name trok instead of the usual soi, and
that many have multiple names attached to them. For exam-
ple, Trok Issaranuphap is often signposted as Soi Issaranuphap
or as Soi 16, while Soi Phadung Dao is also known as Soi Texas.
84
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat See
If you're coming from Thonburi, you can cross the river by tak-
ing a ferry. There is a ferry service from Kanlayanamit to Pak Kh- See
long Talat, from Dindaeng to Rachawongse and from Klongsan
to Si Phraya. Ferries leave about every 15 minutes for just 3 Sights abound around Yaowarat and Phahurat, but if you're
baht. looking for "must-sees", you might want to visit Rattanakosin
first. While enjoying a relaxed walk through this district, you
should at least incorporatea visit to Wat Mangkon Kamalawat
By public transit and Wat Traimit. Other sights could be considered optional or
Yaowarat and Phahurat can directly be reached by metro if you more interesting for adventurous travellers.
are coming from Silom, Sukhumvit or Ratchadaphisek. The on-
ly station close to the district is Hua Lamphong at the east- Temples
ern side. The metro ride from Silom takes about five minutes,
while the ride from Sukhumvit takes about ten minutes. Trains Guru Tawan Sikh Temple ( Gu-
leave every five to ten minutes for a fare of about 16 to 41 baht. rudwara Siri Guru Singh Sabha), 565 Chakphet Rd (next
From the metro station, it is a 20 minute walk to the center of to the India Emporium mall, south of the Pahurat Rd and
Yaowarat. Chakphet Rd intersection), +66-2-221-1011, . 10AM-6PM
daily. Established in 1932, this Sikh temple is the most iconic
landmark of Phahurat and actually the second-largest Sikh
By bus temple outside India. It is a white six-story building with a
The bus system in Bangkok is complex, but it is actually one large golden dome on top. This temple is very important for
of the cheapest ways to travel around the city. Many lines run daily life as most Indians in this neighborhood are followers
through the district, but let's start with a warning: as Yaowarat of the Sikh faith. It is possible to enter, but you must take off
Road is a one-way road, bus lines only use it in westwards di- your shoes and cover your head with an orange cloth. Free.
rection (to Rattanakosin). Buses going east use Charoen Krung Wat Chai Chana Songkhram (, literally
Road instead! War Victory Temple), 83 Chakrawat Rd (walk 150 me-
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 25 is the most important bus ters north along Chakrawat Road from Yaowarat Road),
route. It starts in the far southeast of Sukhumvit Road, then fol- +66-2-221-4310, . This third class Royal Temple dates from
lows that road northwest before heading through Ratchapra- 1848, the reign of King Rama III. The temple was the project
song intersection (for Siam Square), Ratchdamri Road, Silom in- of chief commander Chao Phraya Bodindecha, who lead Si-
tersection, Rama IV Road, Hualamphong Train Station and then am to victory in the wars against Vietnam and Cambodia.
runs right through Yaowarat Road and Phahurat Road. This He designated his house and the surrounding land as a site
route can also be taken from the other direction, then it comes for a new temple, which he called the War Victory Temple
from Tha Chang pier (near the Grand Palace in Rattanakosin) as a commemoration to his victories. It is a relatively large
and takes Charoen Krung Road instead of Yaowarat Road. temple complex with an enshrined Buddha inside the main
building. Free.
From Khao San Road, catch ordinary (circular) bus 56 which
runs along Tanao Road at the eastern tip of Khao San Road and
then goes south through Maha Chai Road and Chakphet Road
(get off after the Merry King department store for Phahurat
Road and Sampeng Lane; don't miss it, as it will cross the bridge
to Thonburi right after). Ordinary bus 4 comes from Silom in-
85
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat See
86
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat See
the Chao Phraya River. King Rama I turned it into a royal tem- center, a shrine dedicated to the deity Going-Wu on the left
ple in 1796. King Rama IV gave the temple its current name and a shrine dedicated to the Queen of Heaven on the right.
after Prince Samphanthawong. Inside you can find a statue
Kwong Siew Foundation (), 5/3-5/5
of Mara. The backyard is filled with rows of golden Buddhas.
Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-226-5704. As with the other
Free.
foundations and medical centers in the area, this charity
Wat Traimit ( Temple of the also has an impressive shrine known as the Guang Dong
Golden Buddha), Tri Mit Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, east of the Shrine (). This 130-year old shrine
Odeon Circle), +66-2-225-9775. 8AM-5PM daily. This tem- was built in a traditional Chinese architectural style and used
ple is one of the highlights of Yaowarat, but is actually not to be a meeting place of overseas Chinese from the Guang-
part of China's cultural heritage. It houses the Phra Phuttha dong region in China. It has been built mostly with construc-
Maha Suwan Patimakon (), the tion materials and Buddha images from their homeland.
world's largest solid-gold Buddha image, which originates
Li Thi Miew Shrine (), 494 Plap Phla
from the Sukhothai period. It is over three meters tall and
Chai Rd (close to Wat Kanikapon), +66-2-221-6985. One of
weighs five and a half tonnes, with an interesting history.
the larger and more open Chinese shrines in Bangkok, the Li
The image was only rediscovered about 50 years ago when
Thi Miew Shrine is not a sight where you'll find many tourists.
it dropped from a crane while being moved. This cracked the
This Taoist temple has a large roof housing plenty of smaller
plaster exterior that was (as it's said) applied to hide the im-
shrines. As typical in Chinese shrines, the roof features two
age from the invading Burmese army. There is an impressive
dragons that play with a pearl. The building next to the tem-
white structure with a golden spire next to the temple, that
ple features a large shrine, which just like the Thien Fa Foun-
reaches higher than many other buildings in the district. 20
dation, is dedicated to Kuan Yin, the Goddess of Mercy.
baht.
Poh Teck Tung Foundation ( Por Tek
Shrines Teung Foundation), 326 Chao Khamrob Rd (near Wat
Kanikapon and the Phlap Phla Chai Police Station),
+66-2-226-4444(-8). 7AM-8PM daily. This charity organiza-
tion has been established by dr. Utain Techapaiboon more
than 100 years ago for arranging funerals for unidentified
corpses, such as accident victims. Between the foundation
and the Li Thi Miew Shrine are plenty of funerary parapher-
nalia stores. Most interesting is the Da Feng Zu Shrine inside.
It is a very lively shrine with many Thai-Chinese coming over
to worship the Da Feng Zu God, make a merit and get rid of
their bad fortune. Many satin banners and paper offerings
such as fake money are burned to ensure that the spirit of
the deceased has lots of good things in the afterlife. Free.
87
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Do
Do
Take the Yaowarat and Phahurat Tour, a full day walking tour
Sampeng Lane
around the most interesting sights, markets and restaurants
of the area. Typical for Yaowarat are its small crowded lanes filled with
Chinatown Foodie Walk and Culture Tour, (meet at MRT Hua markets, that sell... well, anything you could possibly imagine.
Lamphong station), +66-8-9126-3657, . W-Sa 6PM-9:30PM. You'll stumble on items for sale as diverse as Chinese medicine,
This is a culinary walking tour through Yaowarat that takes snake blood, Buddhist paraphernalia, toys, ant-killer chalk, car
about 3,5 hours. The tour includes the tasting of nine menus spare parts, typical teenager stuff and more. Parallel to the big
from seven local eateries, as well as visits to local landmarks. Yaowarat Road lies Sampeng Lane (sometimes signposted as
Each participant is given a wireless earpiece to use during Soi Wanit 1, 8AM-6PM daily) which is probably the most char-
the tour. The tour is only available from Wednesday to Satur- acteristic (if tacky) shopping lane of the area. This narrow lane,
day. 1300 baht. at some places having a width of less than one meter, used to
be a shady area thriving on brothels, gambling houses and opi-
Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre (), um dens, but has now turned into a crowded lane of endless
66 Charoen Krung Rd (near the Old Siam Plaza), ramshackle department stores. The lane can roughly be divid-
+66-2-225-8757(-8), +66-2-623-8148(-9). 10AM-6PM daily. ed into three sections, all of them selling different kind of prod-
Opened in 1933, the theatre places a heavy emphasis on ucts at bargain rates. The lower eastern part of Sampeng Lane
Thai dramas known as "khon" traditional Thai dances focuses on cheap teenager accessories, such as cheap jewelry,
based on Thai history and legends that take about two toys and hair products. In the middle part, there is more of a fo-
hours. The "khon" are mostly performed during the winter cus on shoes, Chinese ceramics and lanterns. Indian merchants
months, while other performing arts (including cinema) are have mostly taken over the part west of Rachawongse Road,
staged throughout the year. It is best to call first to find out where you can find fabrics, silk and other clothes. Don't expect
about which performances are on. high quality here, just shop for the heck of it.
88
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Buy
combined with the Thieves' Market. It feels quite cramped as hood to see the daily life of the local Chinese, most of who
the shops are around a very small pathway. The products for work in garages and repair cars on the streets. Obviously it is
sale are toys and electronics, such as air guns, video games, not easy to bring these parts home, but it does make for a fun
camcorders, used cameras and accessories. walk. You will come across huge piles of oily car parts, some
of them taller than 3 meters! The area is named after the San
Khlong Tom Market (), (between Luang Rd, Charoen Jao Sieng Kong temple, which is listed in the See section.
Krung Rd, Worachak Rd and Suapa Rd). Another one of
Chinatown's typical markets, and actually one of the largest Thieves' Market ( Woeng Nakhon Kasem),
by square footage. It is not really one market, but instead a Woeng Nakhon Kasem 1 and 2 (between Chakrawat Rd and
combination of specialty stores and open-air markets. It is Boriphat Rd). This open-air market is called the Thieves' Mar-
mostly of interest if you're looking for low-cost electronics ket, as many of the goods sold here were stolen. Now it
and hardware, such as cellular phones, CDs and DVDs, gad- is mostly known for its combination of garage sales, brass-
gets, household tools, toys, vehicle spare parts, some clothes ware, blue-and-white porcelain, old furniture and imitation
and many many small things. antiques. Not too interesting for most foreigners though,
but it is so dirty that it might be worth a look. Some of its
Noi Market ( Talat Noi), Soi 20 and 22, Charoen visitors are drawn by the sale of all kinds of musical instru-
Krung Rd (between Soi Wanit 2 and Charoen Krung Rd). This ments, from guitars to flutes.
market is so off the beaten path, you may not even find your
way back anymore. Its hidden location between soi 20 and Wanit 2 Market ( 2), Soi Wanit 2 (right in front of the
22 gives this market a very local atmosphere, even while Holy Rosary Church, north of River City). This market doesn't
tourists are never far away. The market vendors sell products seem to have a real name, but its location near the church
from China, fruit and other fresh food. But most interesting and River City makes it relatively easy to find. It's not worth
is the fact that you might walk through others' living rooms it to specifically come here for the market, as it is very small,
and see more of the citizens' daily life. Nearby is the Sieng but it is a fun market if you happen to be in the area. You
Kong Zone, which can easily be combined with a visit to the might want to sit down on one of the plastic seats and try
Noi Market. some Chinese snacks as you walk from River City to China-
town proper.
Plaeng Nam Road (). This small road feels like
a time machine with an atmosphere of at least one hun-
dred years old. It is an excellent showcase of ancient Chi- Phahurat
nese civilization. If coming from Charoen Krung Road, pass
the Mongkol Smakhorm Temple and the ancient Chinese
pharmacy and on the right side you will find Guang Jiab Xia,
a shop selling and repairing traditional Chinese musical in-
struments. Generally they are also trying one of the instru-
ments playing traditional Chinese music. Close by is Liang
Guang Panich, a 70-year old shop that sells ancient Thai and
foreign lamps.
Fabric shopping
89
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Eat
tern you could possibly imagine. Some shops are specialized Gold
in custom-made wedding gifts, dresses and souvenirs. This old
market is a labyrinth of narrow lanes, barely wide enough for Yaowarat has been the home of gold and gem trading for a
two people to pass each other. It is the most typical market the couple of centuries, and it is no wonder that some of the old-
Indian neighborhood has to offer and has managed to keep its est buildings in the district are gold shops. Originally, the four
unique character ever since it was founded. "tycoon" gold shops were Seng Heng Li, Hua Seng Heng, Tung
Jin Aeng and Tang To Kang. Now there are more than 130 gold
Besides fabrics, Phahurat is also an excellent place for buying
shops along Yaowarat Road alone, which is why it is known
accessories, such as bracelets, trinkets and sandals. There are
as the "Golden Road". Generally, the gold is of high standard
literally thousands of different kinds for sale, and all for a bar-
(of approximately 23 karat gold) and most shops are a mem-
gain, so mix and match as you wish. You'll also notice many
ber of the Gold Merchants Association. As this district is out of
stores selling religious paraphernalia like statues and pictures
the tourist eye, it is generally safer, but still be wary of the gem
of Indian deities.
scam. See the Stay safe section of the Bangkok page for more
information about the scam and what to do once you've fallen
Flowers for it. One of the better trusted gem stores:
Malls
Three of Bangkok's better known malls can also be found in the
district:
Eat
Pak Khlong Talat
If you're looking for Indian restaurants, your best bets are
As Phahurat becomes deserted at night, Pak Khlong Talat Phahurat Road and Chakphet Road. The roads themselves tend
(, Chakphet Rd, open 24 hours) just starts to be- to get deserted after dark, so you might want to head off by
come lively. Not having anything to do with the Indian com- taxi when eating time is over.
munity, this wholesale flower market is a great stroll through
and a highlight in its own right. The endless piles orchids, roses Budget
and other flowers are an interesting sight, and there is some-
thing to be found for any budget. There are amazingly expen- Yaowarat
sive bouquets for thousands of bahts, but your partner might
even be happier with a beautifully created rose for just 50 baht. Chong Kee, 84 Soi Sukon, Tri Mit Rd (near Wat Traimit),
The market is open at all times, but the best time to visit is +66-2-236-1171. Tu-Su 9:30AM-7PM, M 9:30AM-2PM. Anoth-
around 3AM, when the new flower batches come in from West er small budget restaurant in Chinatown. Many of the eater-
and Central Thailand. If that is too late (or too early) for you, visit ies here are specialized in one kind of dish, and here the pork
it from 8PM onwards when the market is beautifully illuminat- satay with sweet toast is the one to try. Lots of herbs were
ed and very lively. added into the satay sauce. Usually there are plenty of seats
available, but it can be crowded during lunch time. 60 baht.
A visit to the flower market can easily be combined with the
Memorial Bridge Night Market ( Saphan Phut, Tu- Hong Kong Noodles, 136 Trok Issaranuphap. 9AM-6PM dai-
Su 8PM-midnight, M closed), which is located at the Memorial ly. This typical Yaowarat budget restaurant is in the middle
Bridge pier. This cramped night bazaar is a fun walk through of the sensual Trok Issaranuphap market. Just take a seat
the dark, as plenty of colorful lights bright up the place. Expect
nothing spectacular though, most of the products for sale are
clothes, shoes and accessories for teenagers, as well as some
second-hand items.
90
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Drink
on one of the plastic chairs and immerse yourself in the sur- Most visitors just line up at one of Yaowarat Road's numerous
rounding commerce. Obviously, go for the noodles. 30 baht. hawker stalls for some soda or iced chocolate. Else you can take
a seat at one of the area's coffee joints:
Nai Ek, 442 Soi 9, Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Hotel),
+66-2-226-4651. 10AM-2PM daily. Simple budget restaurant Ek Teng Phu Kee Coffee, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection
for boiled noodles. 40-50 baht. of Yaowarat Rd and Song Sawat Rd), +66-2-221-4484.
3:30AM-9:30PM daily. A nice coffee stall down the east end
Nai Sow, 3-1 Maitri Chit Rd, +66-2-222-1539. 10AM-10PM of Yaowarat. A good place to see the people of Yaowarat dis-
daily. A simple restaurant in the north of Yaowarat. It serves cuss anything you probably can't understand over a cup of
the usual Thai dishes, such as tom yam goong. 50 baht. coffee. 50 baht.
Thai Charoen, 454 Charoen Krung Rd, +66-2-221-2633. Iea Sae Coffee, Phat Sai Rd (at the intersection of Phat Sai
9AM-7PM daily. Another one of Yaowarat's budget places, Rd and Yaowa Phanit Rd), +66-2-573-3388. 5AM-10PM dai-
this unpretentious restaurant has all the Chinese special- ly. As always in Yaowarat, this 80-year old coffee joint does
ties for absolute bargain prices. You might want to try the not sell the usual latte or cappuccino - the special treat is
stuffed squid. 30 baht. Chaozhou coffee, a bittersweet Chinese brew. 50 baht.
Yen Ta Fo Je Hieng, Yaowarat Rd (at the intersection of
Mangkon Rd and Yaowarat Rd). 9AM-6PM daily. This simple
restaurant is specialized in "yen ta fo", a Thai seafood dish Sleep
best explained as rice noodles in red tofu soup. The place
does not have an English sign outside, so look for the big red Not many people spend the night in Yaowarat or Phahurat, but
sign with the menu written out in white Thai alphabet. 30 there are some hotels available for the ones who'd like to ex-
baht. plore the area more than just one day. Yaowarat is an inter-
esting medium-cost alternative for Khao San Road, and the at-
Pahurat mosphere is much more authentic. Many of the hotels have the
Chacha Restaurant, 458 Chakphet Rd, +66-2-222-5712. same ramshackle feel as those found in the average Chinese
Small, simple and unpretentious, it gets the job done with city.
some fine dishes from northern India. The obvious Indian
curries are present, but where this restaurant excels is at its Budget
wide array of vegetarian dishes. If you're a vegetarian (or
even if you're not), you might want to try the allimatter, a 238 Guesthouse, 238 Phahurat Rd (at the corner of Phahurat
spicy dish of chickpea, rice and potatoes. 65 baht. Road and Charoen Krung Soi 2), +66-2-623-9073, . One of
the few basic hotels in the Phahurat area, the 16 rooms of
Old Siam Plaza Food Court, 3F, Old Siam Plaza, 12 Tri Phet 238 Guesthouse do a decent job. There are air-conditioned
Rd (at the intersection of Phahurat Rd and Tri Phet Rd), rooms with hot showers and fan rooms with cold showers.
+66-2-226-0156. 10AM-9PM daily. The Old Siam has an ex- Additional services in the lobby, such as laundry, WiFi, com-
cellent food court with delicious Thai and Chinese dishes. It puter games, food and drinks. 500-700 baht.
works with a coupon system. If you're still hungry afterwards,
head for the first floor of the building which has an excellent Broad Way Hotel, 445 Yaowarat Rd (near White Orchid Ho-
choice of local sweets and desserts. 90 baht. tel), +66-2-221-1430. This budget hotel is situated at the
second floor, as the first floor only has stairs. It has fifty
Samrat, Chakphet Rd. 9AM-9PM daily. Another budget rooms, but they are not in a very good condition. Some
restaurant with delicious Indian curries, along with a range rooms have a bathroom and air-conditioning. 200-600 baht.
of desserts and drinks. 80 baht.
Golden Chain Hotel ( ), 231 Yaowarat Rd,
+66-2-221-0384 (fax: +66-2-221-9745). Very cheap hotel
with 37 rooms that have a TV, refrigerator, table, bathroom
Drink and hot water. Also, there is a restaurant at the ground floor.
Fan 270 baht, air-conditioning 470 baht, deluxe air-condi-
If you're looking for bars or clubs, you are definitely in the
tioning 570 baht.
wrong neighborhood but in Yaowarat, you'll always find an
opportunity to drink something you have never tried before. My Guest House, 114 Phat Sai Rd (at the corner of Phat Sai
You might want to try the snake tonic in the middle of Phadung Road and Song Sawat Road), +66-2-223-5963. Just look
Dao Road, about 300 meters from the east end of Yaowarat at the price and you know that this is a very old place fully
Road. Based on Chinese traditions, an old man can cure any ail- meant for those who are looking for a very cheap way to get
ments you might have with this brew from the blood and meat through the night. The rooms are windowless and only have
of snakes. Not for the fainthearted. cold water showers available. But the staff is very helpful and
91
Districts Yaowarat and Phahurat Contact
there's a good Thai/Chinese restaurant downstairs with an basic, buts its clean and in a convenient location. Air-condi-
English menu. 150-300 baht. tioned rooms are of better quality than the fan rooms, and
feature Western-style toilets. 250-400 baht.
River View Guest House, 768 Soi Phanurangsri,
+66-2-234-5429, . In the narrow back alleys around Talat Noi, Train Inn, 428 Rong Mueang Rd (MRT Hua Lamphong, near
this hotel is really hard to find. It is hidden from the chaos Hualamphong Train Station), +66-2-215-3055(-66), . Don't
in a filthy residential neighborhood, but that's the charm: expect anything more than a budget hotel here, most trav-
it feels like a serene, tranquil and village-like atmosphere, elers just use it to catch an early train, as the train station
which is quite unusual in a megalopolis like Bangkok. Its roof is only a 3-minutes walk. The whole hotel feels a bit claus-
terrace gives an excellent view over the Chao Phraya River trophobic (some rooms don't have windows) and there can
(hence the name). But don't forget that it is a budget hotel be a disgusting smell all over the place. The rooms are okay
that is aimed at backpackers, so it is very basic and not al- and include air-conditioning. The staff is polite too. 450-900
ways clean. There are cheaper fan rooms and more expen- baht.
sive air-conditioning rooms, but don't expect a lot from the
cheaper end rooms. 450-900 baht.
Get out
Looking for more temples? Rattanakosin is just northwest
of the district and has dozens of them, including the Grand
Palace and Wat Pho.
Hualamphong Train Station If you like the street markets in Yaowarat and Phahurat, you
might want to attend the much-larger Chatuchak Weekend
If you need to catch one of the early trains (to Ayutthaya, Kan-
Market in Phahonyothin.
chanaburi or beyond), it can pay off to spend the night in the
area around Hualamphong Train Station. Its location is ideal,
as it is at the meeting point of three interesting districts (Siam
Square, Silom and Yaowarat), while the area is also served by
an MRT station.
92
Districts Dusit Understand
Get in
DUSIT
Understand
King Rama V was the first Thai monarch to visit Europe. He
was very impressed with what he had seen there, and came up
with some drastic ideas to make Bangkok ready for the 20th
century. Rattanakosin was a cramped district with many water-
ways, as opposed to Europe where broad avenues dominated
cities like Paris and London. King Rama V decided that most
of the original canals in Rattanakosin had to disappear in favor
of roads for horse carriages. But this was only the beginning; Map of Dusit
King Rama V started designing a completely new district from
Dusit is not particularly easy to reach by public transport. The
scratch that had to become the "new royal city", a district with
Chao Phraya Express Boat serves the district, but it is still quite
grandeur, wide avenues and a leafy, European feel. The result
a hike towards the Dusit Palace from the pier. There are plenty
of this process is Dusit.
of bus lines going through, but we all know what a hassle that
The best example of this modernization process is the Dusit is. If you're too lazy to cope with this all, you might just want to
Palace. It is a massive complex of royal residences and palaces go by taxi, which is by far the easiest option.
in many different styles, some of them with a European feel.
The Italian Renaissance-style Anantasamakhom Throne Hall By boat
dominates the stage, and right in front of it in the middle of a
wide avenue stands the Rama V Equastrian Statue, a large stat- You can enter Dusit using the Chao Phraya Express Boat ser-
ue of the King himself that is beautifully adorned with garlands vice. Thewet pier is technically just over the edge in Rat-
on Chulalongkorn Day (October 23). King Rama V is still popu- tanakosin, but is an excellent entry point into the southwestern
lar among the Thai people and his modernization strategy is area of Dusit. From there, it is a 20 minutes walk to the Dusit
credited with having saved Siam from Western colonization. Palace.
It is the seat of power to this day with nearly all of Thailand's de- Orange flag boats connect Thewet with Tha Chang pier (if
cision-making institutions within its boundaries. Near the Dusit you're coming from the Grand Palace) and Phra Athit pier (if
Palace is the National Assembly, a modern building that is the you're coming from Khao San Road). From downtown, you can
parliament of the country. South of it lies the Venetian Goth- take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin station and transfer onto
ic-style Government House, which is mostly used for state cer- the express boat. A single trip from Sathorn (Taksin) in Silom
emonies, and can only be visited once a year on Children's Day to Thewet takes about 40 minutes and costs 13 baht. You can
(January 9). The Chitralada Palace, the official residence of HM take any express boat, as Thewet is one of the most important
King Bhumibol Adulyadej, lies just east of the Dusit Palace. stops in Rattanakosin, but the yellow flag line is the fastest one.
A good day to catch the stately feel of the district is at Decem- There are some other express boat piers in Dusit, but they are
ber 2, when Dusit hosts the annual Trooping the Colour cer- far off the interesting sights.
emony. Hundreds of officers of the Royal Guard demonstrate
their allegiance to the King by parading around Suan Amporn,
which is right next to Rama V's statue.
By bus
If you're coming from the Old City, ordinary and air-condi-
tioned bus 70 runs directly to the Dusit Palace. Get on it at
Sanam Luang if you happen to be around the Grand Palace, or
get on at Ratchadamnoen Klang Road if you live around Khao
San Road. Get off outside the Royal Elephant National Museum
at Uthong Nai Road. To be sure, ask one the locals where to get
off, or you might go too far.
93
Districts Dusit See
Vimanmek Mansion
The main structure is the Vimanmek Mansion, touted as the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall
world's largest golden teakwood residence and the former
Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (SUPPORT Museum). Built in the
home of King Rama V. Get a ticket for 100 baht at the north-
year 1904, this beautiful hall was formerly used for royal
western side of the palace grounds, or enter for free if you still
meetings and banquets. Its exterior is unique as it is clearly a
have the Grand Palace entry ticket (remains valid for a week).
mix of Victorian and Islamic influences. Home to the largest
You can visit all the museums on the palace grounds with one
part of HM Queen Sirikit's SUPPORT Museum, it shows a col-
ticket, except the Anantasamakhom Throne Hall and the Royal
lection of handicraft masterpieces created by skillful people
Elephant National Museum which set back a separate 50 baht.
from the countryside. Some of the items on show are hand-
Keep in mind that the same dress codes apply here as in the
bags, baskets, pots, jewelry, figurines and silk, all created us-
Grand Palace, so leave shorts and sleeveless shirts in your hotel
ing traditional techniques. HM Queen Sirikit set up this foun-
room. You must store your belongings in a locker before en-
dation to preserve and revitalize these traditional Thai hand-
tering each museum. It's free everywhere, except at the Viman-
icrafts and techniques, as demand for them has significantly
mek Mansion, so if you're on a stringent budget, go to anoth-
lowered in modern Thai society.
er museum first and leave your belongings there. The palace
grounds are open from 9:30AM till 4PM, but the last (compulso- H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 2 (HRH
ry) tour of the Vimanmek Mansion starts around 3:15PM. Some Princess Bussaban Bua-Phan Residential Hall). Besides being
of the smaller museums close at 3:30PM. Allow a full morning the current King of Thailand, H.M. King Bhumibol Adulyadej
and afternoon if you want to see all the buildings and muse- is also a photographer. Some of his works are on display in
ums. Also make sure you get a map when buying the ticket, as this building, that used to be the residence of HRH Princess
the palace grounds are large and hard to navigate without a Bussaban Bua-Phan, a sister of King Rama V. The collection
map. includes pictures of the King playing music and pictures
94
Districts Dusit See
showing HM Queen Sirikit and other members of the royal you encounter if you enter the complex from its northern
family. entrance. It previously was the residence of Queen Savang
Vadhana, the grandmother of King Rama V. It now houses
H.M. King Bhumibol's Photographic Museum No. 1 (HRH photos and models of the royal barges that are used in the
Princess Arun-Wadi Residential Hall). This two-story-build- beautiful Royal Barge Ceremony. If you want to see the royal
ing was built by King Rama V for his sister HRH Princess Arun- barges yourself, you can visit the Royal Barges National Mu-
Wadi. The residence has been turned into a photo museum seum in Thonburi.
showing pictures taken by the current King of Thailand, HM
King Bhumibol Adulyadej. The photos here show projects Royal Carriage Museum (Royal Carriage Buildings No. 1 and
HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej has supported to improve the 3). As King Rama V wanted to modernize Thailand along
conditions of the people living in poorer parts of the coun- European lines, he filled up many of the traditional canals
try. and turned them into roads, so horse carriages could be
used. It was recorded that 2698 horse carriages were used
Ancient Clock Museum (HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang Res- in Bangkok by 1925. These buildings show off 23 royal car-
idential Hall). This is a two-story brick house that King Ra- riages that have been used since the late 19th-century. The
ma V built for his sister HRH Princess Puang Soi Sa-Ang. It is museum has been opened in 1991 on the 60th birthday of
close to the other three residential halls that were built for HM Queen Sirikit. It is the only museum where taking pic-
his other sisters. The residence has been turned into a muse- tures is allowed.
um displaying old clocks and timepieces. The ground floor
has 19th-century antique clocks on display from the Unit- Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 2. Another building that
ed Kingdom, Germany and the United States. The rooms up- houses a large collection of royal paraphernalia. On show is
stairs display an art collection, royal gifts and souvenirs of a royal palanquin with four gables and an ornate roof and
King Rama V. palanquins that were used for the ladies of the court.
Ancient Cloth and Silk Museum (HRH Princess Orathai Thep HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 2 (Suan Bua Res-
Kanya Residential Hall). This is the fourth royal residence Ra- idential Hall). The former residence of Princess Saisavali Bhi-
ma V has created for one of his sisters, and it is slightly larg- romya, the royal consort of King Chulalongkorn. On display
er than the other three. It has been the residence of HRH is a large collection of Buddha statues and photographs
Princess Orathai Thep Kanya. Now there are plenty of rare from the reign of King Chulalongkorn. Gifts H.M. King Bhu-
fabrics and textiles on display here that were used during mibol received on state visits to other countries can also be
the reigns of King Rama IV and King Rama V. These textiles seen.
are around 150 years old. The SUPPORT Foundation also has
The Presentation Hall (Suan Bua Plew). This hall features a
modern pieces of textiles on show, which have been woven
multimedia slideshow about the history of the Dusit Palace.
using traditional methods, but come from the 21st-century.
It also gives an overview of the different residential halls and
Prehistoric Ban Chiang Pottery Museum (Krom Luang Vo- their exhibits, so you can more easily decide which ones you
rased Thasuda Residential Hall). This small brick building was want to visit. There's also a collection of pictures showing
the home of Princess Bootri, a daughter of King Rama III. the Vimanmek Mansion beautifully illuminated at night.
King Rama V considered her his grandmother, as she raised
Pottery from Shipwrecks Museum (Tamnak Ho Residen-
Princess Phra Thepsirin who is the mother of King Rama V.
tial Hall). Tamnak Ho was residence built in 1903 for the
Now it has prehistoric pottery from the Ban Chiang Archaeo-
wedding of Prince Paribatra Sukhumbandhu, the Prince of
logical Site on show here. This site in Northern Isaan was dis-
Nakhon Sawan and son of King Rama V. It was originally
covered in 1966 by Stephan Young, and is considered one of
built within the grounds of the Bang Khun Phrom Palace, but
the most important prehistoric sites of Southeast Asia. The
when the Bank of Thailand took office there, the building
artifacts on show are thus from a civilization that has existed
was moved to the Sukhothai Palace in 1985. Another move
between 3600 BC and 200 AD.
happened in 1998, when HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej dis-
Paraphernalia of High Rank Hall No. 1 (Suan Farang Kang- mantled the building and moved it to the Dusit Palace. Now
sai Residential Hall). This is the former residence of Phra Raja the hall displays pottery from the Sukhothai and Ayutthaya
Jaya Dara Rasmi, the daughter of the Prince of Chiang Mai periods, which were recovered in 1976 from underwater
and a consort of King Rama V. The building was complet- shipwrecks at the bottom of the Gulf of Thailand (at the coast
ed in 1909. Now it displays some personal paraphernalia of of the provinces of Rayong and Chantaburi). It is believed
King Rama V, including oil paintings that are about 100 years that these ships were Chinese and Vietnamese trade junks
old. Other items on show are pottery from all over the world from the 15th to the 18th century.
(such as China, Germany and the United Kingdom) and old
HM King Bhumibol Collection Museum No. 1 (Suan Si Rue
European oil lamps.
Du Residential Hall). This hall is a former residence of HM
Royal Ceremonial Photography Museum (Suan Hong Resi- Queen Saovabha and HRH Princess Valaya Alongkorn, who
dential Hall). This two-story wooden building is the first one is HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej's aunt. The Princess Moth-
95
Districts Dusit Do
er has also lived here in her childhood times. On display are Parks and monuments
gifts and art objects HM King Bhumibol Adulyadej received
on the 50th anniversary of his ascension to throne in 1996. Dusit Zoo (), 71 Rama V Rd (between the
Dusit Palace and the Chitralada Palace), +66-2-281-2000, .
HM King Bhumibol's Oil Paintings Museum (Suan Kularb Res-
8AM-6PM daily. The zoo is an excellent destination for fam-
idential Hall). This used to be the residence of HRH Prince
ilies and children. It is a lush and green zoo with many flow-
Asdang Dejavudh, a son of HM King Rama V and HM Queen
ers, trees and ponds. A fun activity is floating on the water
Saovabha. The Prince has lived here until his death in 1924.
with the foot-peddle boats, or riding the small tram, but it
Now it is a museum that set up a display of HM King Bhumi-
costs 60 baht more. There are many playgrounds and picnic
bol Adulyadej's oil paintings.
areas, as well as some restaurants in case you get hungry.
Separate entry fee Oh yeah, and they also have animals, such as giraffes, zebras,
deer, hippos, elephants and tigers. 100 baht.
Do
Anantasamakhom Throne Hall You might want to visit one of the two daily traditional Thai
dance performances at the Dusit Palace. The shows start at
Anantasamakhom Throne Hall (),
10AM and at 2PM and entry is free.
(behind the Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall),
+66-2-628-6300(-5119). 9:30AM-4PM daily, hols closed. This Royal Turf Club of Thailand (), 183 Phitsan-
Renaissance and neo-classical-style building was construct- ulok Rd, +66-2-280-0020(-9). Every two weeks on Sunday
ed of Italian marble under the commission of King Rama V 12:30PM-6PM. This is a venue for horse races under royal pa-
in 1906. He had the intention to use it as a royal reception tronage. Races are held every two weeks on Sunday. 50-100
and assembly hall. The construction was completed in the baht.
reign of King Rama VI. The dome of the throne hall hous-
es picturesque frescoes of royal activities undertaken dur-
ing the reigns of King Rama I till King Rama VI. The building
serves as a venue for royal and state ceremonies and was Buy
used as the National Assembly before it was moved to the
current building behind it. Currently it houses beautiful arts There is not much in the way of shopping in Dusit, but there
and crafts made with traditional Thai techniques. 50 baht. are a few stores that might interest you.
Royal Elephant National Museum (Changton National Muse- Naga House, 315 Soi Ongkharak 13, Sam Sen Soi 28 (if com-
um), Uthong Nai Rd (near the National Assembly inside the ing from the Thewet pier, walk onto Sam Sen Road in north-
Dusit Palace compound), +66-2-282-3336, . 9:30AM-4PM wards direction; then take a right into Sam Sen Soi 28 (al-
daily, hols closed. At the site that used to house the royal so known as Soi Ongkarak); after a while, take a left into
stables of the King's white elephants, since 1988 it is a mu- Ongkarak Soi 13 and walk straight on), +66-2-669-3416.
seum about these extremely rare creatures. They are consid- This antiques store is set in a wonderful teak house from the
ered holy animals in Thailand, as a white elephant with six 1920s. There is plenty of furniture on site, including silver-
tusks appeared in a dream to Buddha's mother when she ware baskets from Northern Thailand, teak tables from Chi-
conceived her child. This museum tells you all about the his- na and lacquerware from Myanmar.
tory of white elephants in Thailand and the criteria an ele- Thewet Market (), Krung Kasem Rd (right in
phant must meet in order to be considered a "royal white" front of Thewet Pier). This pot plant market is along the bank
elephant. 5 baht. of Khlong Phadung Krung Kaseman. It has plenty of tropical
plants for sale, as well as the seeds so you can grow them
96
Districts Dusit Eat
yourself. You can buy one if you wish, but first check with
authorities whether you are allowed to import them to your
Sleep
country! Even if you're not actually buying anything, it's still
The wide avenues with heavy traffic in Dusit are by no means
nice to see this local market in action.
compelling places to stay the night. Most budget travellers
sleep in nearby Khao San Road, while upper class hotels can
be found in Sukhumvit. The adjacent Siam Square has some of
Eat both worlds. If you do want to stay in Dusit, and with that try
something different, some small guest houses have congregat-
Dusit is not a district for splurge meals, but the river view makes ed in the southwestern corner of the district, close to Thewet
a beautiful setting. The guest houses also serve decent Thai pier.
food (see Sleep).
Backpackers Lodge, 85 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (past Tavee
In Love (formerly Chon-Ngern or Silver Spoon), 2/1 Krung Guesthouse at the end of the soi), +66-2-282-3231. This is
Kasem Rd (Thewet pier), +66-2-281-9228. 6PM-1AM daily. a basic family-run guest house with clean and decent rooms.
This is an elegant restaurant with breathtaking nightly views As the name implies, it's really meant for backpackers on a
of the Rama VIII Bridge and the Chao Phraya river. As the budget as it has a community area downstairs. It is in a real-
name indicates, many Thais go here to impress their loved ly quiet location far off from any noise, that's why not a lot
one, and so should you, as the atmosphere is very romantic. of visitors seem to go here. They also have a restaurant with
Try the plaa kraphong neung manao, a delicious steamed the usual Thai and western dishes. Discounts are available if
sea bass with lemon. 400 baht. you stay for a longer period of time. 200-250 baht.
Kaloang Seafood, 2 Si Ayutthaya Rd (in the alley near Shanti Lodge, 37 Si Ayutthaya Soi 16 (walk towards the river
the National Library, it is right at the Chao Phraya riv- from the Sam Sen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersection),
er), +66-2-281-9228. 10AM-10PM daily. This off-the-beat- +66-2-281-2497, . Decorated like a tropical "oasis", Shanti
en-track restaurant is typical Bangkokian with its simple Lodge is surrounded by plants and trees and feels like a tran-
plastic chairs and unassuming interior. But its delicious quil environment in the middle of a big metropolis. Its loca-
seafood is a bargain and you get a nice view over the Chao tion is ideal, close to the river and to Rattanakosin. Expect
Phraya River. The local favorite is the seafood platter, which basic rooms though, that actually are quite noisy, and the
gives you a lot of value for a small price. You might also want staff seems quite ignorant (even by Thai standards). There's
to try the yam pla duk foo, a spicy grilled fish salad, or the also a restaurant (7:30AM-11PM daily) and a Thai massage
larb goong, a spicy shrimp salad with banana blossoms. 200 available. 400-750 baht, dorms 200 baht per person.
baht.
Sri Ayutthaya Guest House, 23/11 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14
Krua Apsorn (), 503-505 Sam Sen Rd (From (Thewet pier), +66-2-282-5942. Easily the best budget ho-
Thewet pier, turn left at Sam Sen Road, walk past the Na- tel in Dusit. The atmosphere is homey as you stay in a sim-
tional Library, pass the small canal and you will find it at the ple house made of wood. It feels kind of tranquil; while there
left-hand side), +66-2-668-8788. M-F 10:30AM-7:30PM, Sa are other backpackers around, it really is in a local neigh-
10:30AM-6PM, Su closed. A great restaurant that places em- borhood with Thai families. Rooms are obviously basic, but
phasis on its authentic Thai dishes prepared in a traditional good, and if you choose an air-conditioned room you also
way. While it looks unpretentious at first, it has won the "best get a good bathroom. Like the other guest houses, there is
restaurant" contest of Bangkok Post in 2006, and has served a restaurant downstairs with Thai, western and vegetarian
members of the Thai royal family. The staff watch local soap food. 500-700 baht.
operas on the TV set and their children run around as if its
a kind of kindergarten; but forget the surroundings, it's all Suan Dusit Place Hotel, 295 Nakhon Ratchasima Rd (in-
about the food and a must try is the mouth-watering crab side the Suan Dusit Rajabhat University complex, at the
omelette. 100-250 baht. Nakhon Ratchasima Road and Ratchawithi Road intersec-
tion), +66-2-241-7571, . This is a basic hotel, but it is clean
and probably the closest hotel to the Vimanmek Mansion. It
mostly caters to local teachers, students and convention at-
Drink tendees who want to stay near the Suan Dusit Rajabhat Uni-
versity. That's why the staff's English is not that good, but
Don't expect any nightlife in Dusit for that, better head off at least they try their best. The restaurant serves good Thai
for nearby Khao San Road. If you just want to fresh up with a meals and is not too expensive. 900 baht.
glass of lemonade, the guest houses in the southwestern part
of Dusit suffice. Tavee Guesthouse, 83 Si Ayutthaya Soi 14 (walk towards the
river from the Sam Sen Road and Si Ayutthaya Road intersec-
tion), +66-2-280-1447. Simple budget hotel with clean and
tidy rooms. There's a nice common space with wooden fur-
97
Districts Dusit Contact
Contact
National Library (), Sam Sen Rd,
+66-2-281-5212, . M-F 9AM-7:30PM, Sa-Su 9AM-5PM. Inter-
net access for all visitors limited for just one hour. You must
complete a form and deposit your passport to the library
staff. Also, games, chat and USB-devices are officially not al-
lowed. Free.
98
Districts Thonburi Understand
THONBURI port and customs office for foreign traders sailing to Ayut-
thaya. In 1665, King Narai the Great ordered the construction of
Vichaiyen Fort near the mouth of the Bangkok Yai canal to pro-
tect Ayutthaya from foreign invasions. This fort is now known
Understand as the Vichaiprasit Fort and can still be seen from the Chao
Phraya Express Boat today. With it, the village got the status
of fortified city and was renamed Thonburi. When the city of
Ayutthaya was burnt to the ground by Burmese armies in 1767,
General Taksin was in charge of the resistance. A capable mil-
itary leader, he conquered back Siam within a year and took
hold of large parts of Southeast Asia in the following decade.
He became King of Siam and established Thonburi as the new
capital of the country. He created his palace close to the fort,
while the residence of General Phraya Chakri (who would lat-
er become King Rama I) was near the current location of Wat
Rakhang.
99
Districts Thonburi Get in
baht. If you're visiting Wat Arun, head for Tha Tien pier at the
Get in Rattanakosin side and embark take the Wat Arun ferry service.
Other notable ferry services are from Tha Chang to Wang Lang
and from Tha Phra Chan to Wang Lang.
By public transit
Most travelers will visit Thonburi as a day-trip from Khao San
Road, Sukhumvit or Silom. After nearly ten years of delays, the
BTS Skytrain connection to Thonburi finally opened in May
2009. The only two stations on the Thonburi side (Wongwian
Yai and Krung Thonburi) aren't near anything particularly in-
teresting though. The best way to get into Thonburi is by get-
ting off the Skytrain at Saphan Taksin station, near the end of
the Silom Line, and taking the Chao Phraya Express Boat up the
river.
By bus
Getting into Thonburi by bus is very complicated, so only use
city buses as a last resort. Bus travel is necessary to reach some
destinations though, such as the Taling Chan Floating Market.
If heading there, take ordinary and air-conditioned bus 79 from
Ratchadamnoen Klang Road, which is near Khao San Road.
Make sure you take the bus into the right direction (crossing
the river) and ask local passengers when to get off or you might
get lost.
Get around
Thonburi is a vast district, and getting around it is not easy. The
area can hardly be explored on foot, as sights are spread far
off throughout the district, most of the main roads are heavily
congested with commuters and the area is lacking foot bridges
over its numerous canals. This is why most travelers take a canal
tour (see the Do-section). But this doesn't mean the area can-
Map of Thonburi not be experienced on your own at all most of the roads
can be walked on, and footbridges do exist, just don't say you
By boat haven't been warned.
There are also numerous ferries crossing the river from the Rat-
tanakosin and Silom sides. Many Bangkok commuters make
use of these ferries, as they quickly cross the river for only 3
100
Districts Thonburi See
101
Districts Thonburi Do
na was flourishing. The viharn is in a typical Thai style, but ing Somdej Toah, a highly respected monk in the reign of
the two flanking buildings look Chinese. Inside the viharn King Rama V. Things of note are the beautiful mural paint-
is a large Buddha image named Phraputtatrirattananayok, ings in the ordination hall, the image hall and the bell tow-
which is 15.44 meter tall and 11.75 meter wide. It is so large er. Outside is a row of bells lined up. It is believed that ring-
that it almost entirely filled the interior of the hall. The im- ing all of them in a row will bring good luck. The front of the
age is called Sampokong by worshippers of Thai-Chinese building is right at the banks of the Chao Phraya river, and it
descent. The inner courtyard is decorated with statues and is beautifully lit at nighttime. Free.
gates imported from China. Every day during the Chinese
Wat Suwannaram, 33 Charan Sanitwong Rd (at the banks
New Year festival, this temple is crowded with thousands of
of the Bangkok Noi canal). This is a big royal temple on the
Thai-Chinese visitors.
banks of the Bangkok Noi canal. It was built during the reign
of King Rama I and renovated during the reign of King Ra-
ma III. Inside are exceptional murals depicting the Jutaku,
deities and the Buddha in subduing Mara posture. These
works of art of the early Rattanakosin period (early 19th cen-
tury) are considered some the best survived mural paintings
in Bangkok. One particularly interesting mural is a Dutch
person holding a telescope. At that time, the Dutch were as-
sociated with modern inventions that were very popular in
Siam. Unfortunately, the temple is often closed, so it is hard
to actually see the murals.
Do
102
Districts Thonburi Eat
103
Districts Thonburi Drink
(if you want). The menu is in English, make sure to try the
fried rice with maggie sauce and fried chicken (or fish) or the
fried rice with thai chili paste and fried chicken. If you have
a big appetite, also order the fried minced shrimp cakes. It's
good. 40-70 baht.
Drink
Do not expect a big nightlife scene in Thonburi for that, the
other districts in Bangkok do a better job. There are some dive
bars spread over the area, but most of them aren't really inter-
esting unless you want to experience how the locals go out.
There are plenty of coffeehouses that serve coffee, tea or iced
chocolate.
Taling Bar, Wang Lang Rd (Wang Lang pier, take a left when
leaving from the pier). 5PM-1AM daily. This is a simple and
small chill-out bar with views over the Chao Phraya River.
At night, the Grand Palace is beautifully lit. You could take
a beer or cocktail at this pub before heading for Khao San
Road. It's not that special, but it's a genuine way to get a taste
of Thonburi's nightlife. Free fried peanuts are offered, and
sometimes there is live music. You can also have dinner in
the evening.
The Peninsula
Sleep Peninsula Bangkok, 333 Charoennakorn Rd (at the other side
of the river from Oriental Hotel), +66-2-861-2888, . Just
Ibrik Resort by the River, 256 Soi Wat Rakang (next to Pa-
across the river from the Oriental hotel, this is a worthy com-
travadi Theatre), +66-2-848-9220, . A luxury boutique re-
petitor for being one of the world's best hotels. Prices are a
sort with only three private double rooms. Each room is
little more sensible than the Oriental though, but still usually
beautifully decorated in a chic style with modern white walls
above US$200. There's a free shuttle service to BTS Saphan
and wooden floors. Two of the rooms offer a view over the
Taksin station and River City pier. 13,000-120,000 baht.
Chao Phraya river. It is a good way to escape the chaos of the
city, yet it is only a 15-minute ferry ride to the Grand Palace. River Side Bangkok, 195 Ratchawithi Rd (slightly south of
Breakfast included. 4000 baht. Krung Thon Bridge), +66-2-883-1588(-20), . This two-star
hotel has 262 "superior" and "deluxe" rooms. Rooms are fully
Marriott Resort and Spa, 257 Charoennakorn Rd (near Krung
equipped with modern facilities and some include a room-
Thep Bridge), +66-2-476-0022, . The Mariott is one of the
service breakfast. Many of the rooms have a nice view over
best hotels in Bangkok. Its off-central location is actually a
the Chao Phraya river. 800-2500 baht.
downer, but it does bring a relaxed ambiance that makes it
feel like a resort hotel. Also, there are shuttle boats to BTS The Royal City Hotel, 800 Borommaratchachonnani Rd
Saphan Taksin station, so you still get to downtown relative- (about 500 meters further down the road from Central Plaza
ly quickly. Rooms are magnificent, there's a tranquil pool and Pinklao), +66-2-435-8888, . This is a decent hotel near
a good breaskfast. 6000-11,000 baht. Central Plaza Pinklao. Rooms are spacious, comfortable and
clean, but also quite old, dark and uninspiring. Facilities are
Millennium Hilton, 123 Charoennakorn Rd (at the oth-
plentiful, including a pool, fitness and massage. The staff
er side of the river from River City shopping mall),
is really nice and helpful. There is not that much to do in
+66-2-442-2000, . Obviously a very luxury hotel at the Chao
the area though, except for the nearby 7-Eleven. 2200-2600
Phraya river, offering a working desk, living room, high-
baht.
speed internet, two LCD televisions, jacuzzi, rain shower and
pool. There's a shuttle boat to River City pier and BTS Saphan The Royal River Hotel, 219 Charan Sanitwong, 66/1 Cha-
Taksin station. 5000-10,000 baht. ran Sanitwong Rd (slightly north of Krung Thon Bridge),
+66-2-422-9222, . This is a good hotel near the Krung Thon
Bridge. Rooms are large, comfortable and clean. The deluxe
rooms of this hotel have a big balcony with a nice view over
104
Districts Thonburi Contact
the river. It is relaxed to splash into the pool after a hot day
of temple tramping. 2200-2700 baht.
Contact
Finding a place to go online is not an easy task in Thonburi. It
is mostly a residential neighborhood and most Thais have an
internet connection at home. You might want to ask around
with the locals. There are some Internet cafes along Phran Nok
Road, such as The Corner CoffeeShop & Internet near the Wang
Lang area.
Get out
Take the train from Thonburi's Wongwian Yai Station to the
fishing village of Maha Chai. Trains leave hourly and the trip
takes about one hour. The train ride is an attraction in it-
self, with plenty of orchards, vegetable plantations, and co-
conut groves to see. Maha Chai is a great destination for fresh
seafood. If you wish, you can even continue your trip to Samut
Songkhram from there.
105
Districts Pratunam Understand
Get in
PRATUNAM
Understand
The southern boundary of Pratunam is marked by the Saen
Saep Canal. This canal was dug during the reign of King Rama
III in the mid-nineteenth century to connect the Chao Phraya
River with the Bang Pakong River to the east. When Saen Saep
was connected with Maha Nak Canal and Krung Kasem Canal,
a gate was required to control the water level between them.
Pratunam literally means "water gate". It was not developed
until the 1960s when rice fields dominated the landscape as far
as the eye could see. Around that time, a fresh produce market
was set up near the Indra Hotel at Ratchaprarop Road. Since
then more markets have set up here, and the whole area has
become known as a local marketplace.
106
Districts Pratunam See
takes about 15 minutes and costs 150 baht. Trains run every
30 minutes from 6AM till midnight. From Makkasan, you can
See
continue your way by metro at Phetchaburi MRT station.
By boat
If you're staying at Khao San Road, the Saen Saep Express Boat
is your best bet to get to Pratunam. It is only a short walk to Pan-
fa Leelard pier, near the Golden Mount in Rattanakosin, where
you can get on the boat. Just step on the next boat and wait for
it to have enough passengers on board. Stay put, as this will be
a rough ride! Pratunam pier is actually the interchange pier of
the network and right in the middle of the action. It is easy to
know when you have arrived, as Pratunam pier last stop of the
Golden Mount Line, so everyone has to disembark. You can al-
so get off one stop earlier, at Sapan Hua Chang, for Ratchathewi Baiyoke Tower II
intersection and the BTS station of the same name. A single trip
There is not particularly much to see in Pratunam, unless you
takes about 25 minutes and costs 9 or 11 baht.
happen to be interested in generic-looking concrete buildings.
The Phaya Thai Palace does make a nice visit if you happen to
By bus be free on a Saturday, and going atop Baiyoke Tower II gives
breathtaking views of the city's skyline.
Pratunam is one of the best-connected districts, so bus trav-
el in general is unnecessary. An exception to this rule is the Baiyoke Tower II Observatory and Revolving Roofdeck
Grand Palace area in Rattanakosin. Bus 60 leaves from the east- ( 2), 77-84F, Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd
ern side of Sanam Luang (Ratchadamnoen Nai Road), pass- (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-656-3000, . M-F 10:30AM-1AM,
es Ratchadamnoen Klang Road (for Khao San Road) and then Sa-Su 9:30AM-1AM. Currently the tallest tower in Thailand
heads off to Lan Luang Road and Phetchaburi Road. You can (though not for long as a taller building is in the works in Pat-
get off anywhere you want along Phetchaburi Road, as it cov- taya), the 304-meter-tall Baiyoke Tower II mainly has a resi-
ers most of the district. After Phetchaburi Road, it goes north- dential purpose. There's an observatory behind a huge win-
east along Ramkhamhaeng Road. dow at the 77th floor and a revolving roofdeck outside at
the 84th floor. The revolving roofdeck is practical for viewing
different parts of the city, but not so handy if you're trying
By foot to make some quality pictures of the city's skyline. It is best
You wouldn't expect it, but Pratunam is easily reachable on to visit right before dusk and watch the sun go down from
foot. It is only a 500 meters walk north from Ratchaprasong in- the tower. Afterwards, you can visit the Rooftop Bar at the
tersection (near Siam Square). You will walk along many luxuri- 83rd floor, which has a very romantic atmosphere and can
ous malls and hotels, knowing the goods you will buy in Pratu- best be recommended for couples or those in love. You can
nam will be much more competitively priced. sit beside a huge window that gives a good view over the
city, and professional bands perform nightly. Be early as the
107
Districts Pratunam Do
seats fill up quickly after dark. 200 baht, includes one (alco- the 59 Thais who lost their lives in the short and inconclu-
holic) drink and popcorn. sive French Indochina War. However, Pibulsongkhram was
kicked out in 1944 and the patch of land gained by Thailand
Bangkok Dolls Museum was handed back to Laos and Cambodia in 1945, making the
(), 85 Soi Ratchat- "victory" a little hollow. These days this spiky Bangkok land-
aphan (Soi Mo Leng) (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-245-3008. mark is better known as Bangkok's largest local bus hub. If
M-Sa 8AM-5PM, Su closed. This museum was established by traveling north by Skytrain, you'll be treated to a 180-degree
Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol in 1956 after completing curving panorama of the monument, and this is the best
a course on doll making at the Osawa Doll School in Tokyo. view you can get as actually reaching the base of the mon-
Her intention with this project was to establish a workshop ument would require passing through a triple-laned traffic
where hand-made dolls could be created using local materi- circle maelstrom of buses. The public restrooms at the ma-
als, and to establish a museum that would promote the Thai jor bus stop directly across from the monument costs 2 baht
doll industry. A part of the workshop is devoted to a private per entry. Free.
collection of about 400 dolls from around the world. These
can be grouped in several categories, including Khon dolls,
hill tribe dolls, Thai rural dolls and Khon mask miniatures.
Free. Do
Phaya Thai Palace (), 315 Ratchawithi Rd (BTS Vic- Calypso Cabaret ( ), B1, Asia Hotel Bldg,
tory Monument), +66-2-354-7660(-93698 on Saturdays, 296 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi), +66-2-653-3960(-2), .
-93646 on weekdays). Sa 9:30AM and 1:30PM, M-F by ap- 8:15PM and 9:45PM. The famous ladyboy show of the Ca-
pointment only. The Phaya Thai Palace has been built by lypso Cabaret. The performances takes place in two sessions
King Rama VI, who lived here from 1919 for the last years of every evening. The show consists of singing, dancing and re-
his reign. After his death, the palace turned into one of the markable costumes. At least make a reservation at their web-
most luxurious hotels in Southeast Asia, a radio station and a site three days before you want to attend the show. 1200
military hospital. The palace is worth seeing, as there is a lot baht.
to take in. The most important building, the Phiman Chakri
Hall, is made in a beautiful Art Nouveau style with silk wall- Century the Movie Plaza ( ), 15
papers and ornate murals. Every Saturday, volunteers give Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Victory Monument), +66-2-247-9940, .
two free guided tours through the palace that take about 10AM-10PM daily. This cineplex and shopping mall opened
two hours. Technically it is also possible to visit the palace in 2005, and is the best cinema of the Victory Monument
on weekdays, but you must call ahead to make an appoint- area. You can find the box office on the third floor, while the
ment and pay 500 baht. Alternatively, you could sip a coffee movie theaters are at the fifth floor. They offer all the ma-
at Caf de Norasingh, which is housed in the royal reception jor Hollywood releases and some lesser known Thai movies
room and open every day. Free. (subtitled in English). While waiting for your movie to start,
you might want to browse around the rest of the shopping
Suan Pakkad Palace (), 352-354 Si Ayutthaya mall or have something to eat. The basement has a wide ar-
Rd (BTS Phaya Thai), +66-2-246-1775(-6), . 9AM-4PM dai- ray of small garment shops.
ly. This complex of five Thai-style houses was once the res-
idence of one of Thailand's leading art collectors, Prince
Chumbhot of Nagara Svarga. It houses an extensive collec-
tion of Asian art and antiques, including items from the pre-
historic Ban Chiang civilization, and an impressive collection
of sea-shells. The Khon Museum, about the traditional Thai
masked dance, and the Traditional Thai Music Museum have
also been established here. 100 baht.
108
Districts Pratunam Buy
There is lots of commercial activity going on around Victory Platinum Fashion Mall ( ), 222 Phetch-
Monument as well, although the malls are not as inspiring. aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-121-8000, . 10AM-8PM
daily. A great place for fashion shopping, especially since
109
Districts Pratunam Eat
it is air-conditioned. Many of the 1300 shops here are also and serves very good Thai food. Check out the special rooms
at the Chatuchak Market on weekends. It is particularly in- upstairs on your way to the bathroom. 250 baht.
teresting for women as the shops mostly sell clothes, hand-
Pickle Factory, 55 Ratchawithi Soi 2 (a 10-15 minutes
bags, shoes, accessories, gifts and make-up. A lot of shops
taxi ride from Victory Monument), +66-2-246-3036.
(but not all) are geared towards export and wholesale.
5:30PM-11:30PM daily. Deep down a small soi, this hip but
Pratunam Center (), 555 Ratchaprarop relaxed lounge-cum-restaurant is neither factory nor has
Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-309-8888. 10:30AM-9PM daily. any pickles on their menu. Instead, it's a modern residential
The shiny new Pratunam Center has four floors of textiles house, complete with swimming pool, offering competent
and jewellery on offer for retail and wholesale. The first two pizzas, pastas and Thai favorites. 100-300 baht.
floors are taken up by OTOP (one tambon, one product) that
Platinum Fashion Mall Food Court ( -
sells handicrafts from every township of Thailand. The base-
), 6F, Platinum Fashion Mall, 542/21-22 Phetch-
ment floor mostly offers silverwares and house decoration
aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-121-9999. 10AM-8PM dai-
items. For now, a large part of the mall is unoccupied. Sur-
ly. There's a huge and very good food court at the sixth floor
rounding the mall are a bunch of clothes stalls.
of the shopping mall. It can get very busy, especially around
Pratunam Market (), Phetchaburi Soi 21 noon and dinnertime. 70 baht.
(Pratunam pier). 9AM-6PM daily. The Pratunam Market is
SabX2 Wonton Noodles, 4/32-33 Soi Phetchaburi 19 (Pratu-
an immense open-air garment market, and although it is
nam pier; in the alley across Platinum Fashion Mall),
geared towards exporters, anyone can shop here. Most of
+66-2-653-9618. 9:30AM-5:30PM. A very popular joint for
the items for sale are t-shirts, dresses, shorts, jeans, shoes
wonton noodles and wonton soup. The whole place is air-
and accessories. You could easily spend half a day here if
conditioned, which is a relief after long shopping days in the
you wish, as the area has a stunning amount of more than
Pratunam Market. Try the braised pork trotters. 60 baht.
4000 shops. While the market is officially open till 6PM, many
shops already close around 4PM. The market spread out on
the streets around Baiyoke Tower I, and the ground floor of
that tower also has a few clothing shops. In the beginning Drink
of the evening, a night market is set-up in the streets along
Baiyoke Tower I that stays open until after 2AM.
Eat
Most of the eateries around Pratunam are cheap and simple,
unless you step into one of its five-star hotels. Victory Monu-
ment has the usual collection of Western and Thai fast-food fa-
vorites, and it has a busy street market as well, especially in the
evenings.
110
Districts Pratunam Sleep
as they get a hefty commission from the club's owners (you years (it is no coincidence that the tallest building in Bangkok
might even get the ride for free). Entry 300 baht including can be found here).
1 drink.
Amari Watergate (), 847 Phetch-
Co-Co Walk (- ), 87/70 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS aburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9000, . Modern four-
Ratchathewi, exit 2), +66-8-1455-7696. 6PM-1AM daily. star hotel with all the facilities you'd expect, including a few
This is basically an outdoor covered compound with a dozen restaurants good enough to draw non-guests (especially the
bars, pubs and live music performances. Some of the bet- American-style Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill). It's a stone's
ter bars include Sawaree Terrace, Co-Co Beach, 69, The Tube throw from Pratunam, across the Saen Saep Canal if you're
and Chilling House Cafe. It is mostly popular among Thai uni- walking from Ratchaprasong. 3000-8000 baht.
versity students. In the middle of it all is a large Korean-style
Baiyoke Sky Hotel ( ), 76-78F,
BBQ that offers "all-you-can-eat" for 99 baht.
Baiyoke Tower II, 222 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop),
Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill ( . +66-2-656-3000, . Ever wanted to spend the night in the
), 1F, Amari Watergate Hotel Bldg, 847 tallest hotel of Southeast Asia? This is your chance. This lux-
Phetchaburi Rd (Pratunam pier), +66-2-653-9000, . Su-Th ury hotel has 673 guest rooms, all with a phenomenal view
5PM-1AM daily, F-Sa 5PM-2AM. Most non-guests that step over the city. It has an extensive breakfast with more than
into the Amari Watergate Hotel come for the American-style 100 dishes to choose from. Rooms are spacious and the staff
Henry J. Beans Bar and Grill. It's a nice place to hang out with is very helpful. The only downer is the long waiting time to
a cold beer or cocktail. During dinner time there's Tex-Mex get into the lift. 2000-3400 baht.
food on offer. There is an open grill with hamburgers, steaks
Century Park Hotel ( ), 9
and salads. Try the chicken fajitas.
Ratchaprarop Rd (a five to ten minutes walk from BTS Victory
Saxophone Pub ( ), 3/8 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Monument), +66-2-246-7800, . Good quality four-star ho-
Victory Monument), +66-2-246-5472, . 6PM-1:30AM daily. tel with spacious rooms. The fitness and pool areas are nice,
One of the best pubs to catch live playing jazz and blues and there's a good view of the city if you're sleeping at the
bands. The interior is beautifully decorated with old gui- higher floors. Breakfasts are particularly nice with a large se-
tars and cymbals. Even while its crowded, the atmosphere is lection of Western and Asian cuisine. 2500-8000 baht.
cozy. It is very much focused on experiencing the music, as
Citin Pratunam ( ), 88/19
the public sits and stands in a semicircle around the band.
Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-120-8999, .
Don't come here for the food, as it is not great and over-
Smack in the heart of Pratunam, close to the Baiyoke Tower
priced. Beers and cocktails (the latter served in a saxophone
II. The rooms are small, but cozy and modern, and feature 32
glass) are also more expensive than elsewhere in Bangkok.
inch LCD TVs and free WiFi. They also have a great spa and
Skytrain Jazz Club, 5F, 6 Rang Nam Rd (BTS Victory Monu- a cafe serving vegetarian-only dishes. There's a free tuk-tuk
ment; across Century the Movie Plaza), +66-8-9895-4299. shuttle service to nearby shops and BTS stations. 1500-3200
5PM-1AM daily. This open-air bar looks nothing like a jazz baht.
club, but feels more like chilling out at a stylish rooftop apart-
Indra Regent Hotel ( ),
ment. There is a nightly view of the Skytrain though and the
120/126 Ratchaprarop Rd (ARL Ratchaprarop),
atmosphere is very relaxed. If you happen to visit on a Thurs-
+66-2-208-0022(-33), . Decent four-star hotel with spacious
day, Friday or Saturday, there will be a live band performing.
rooms and a nice view. The staff is friendly, but you don't get
The Rock Pub (), Hollywood Street Bldg, a lot for breakfast. WiFi is available but you have to pay sep-
93/26-28 Phaya Thai Rd (BTS Ratchathewi), arately for it. Most people stay here for its close location to
+66-2-251-9980, . 7PM-2AM daily. This is the home of rock the garment markets. 2000-5900 baht.
and metal in Bangkok. The owner is a rock musician him-
PJ Watergate Hotel ( ), 467 Soi
self and has been dedicated to make this the place to be for
Watthana Sin (ARL Ratchaprarop), +66-2-254-3314. The PJ
those interested in the genre. Two bands play every night,
Watergate is a decent hotel in the Ratchaprarop area. Rooms
the first one starts playing at 9:30PM and the second one at
feature air-conditioning and a TV, and there's an internet
11:45PM. Expect a lot of Metallica and Nirvana covers.
cafe, restaurant and bar in the main area. Most staff speak
at least some English, but the manager is fluent. 1200-2000
baht.
Sleep
Pullman Bangkok King Power (
While the shopping is one of the cheapest in Bangkok, accom- ), 8/2 Rang Nam Rd (BTS Victory Monument),
modation tends to be in the splurge category. This is not sur- +66-2-680-9999, . Opened in 2007, this modern luxury hotel
prising as real estate prices have been skyrocketing in recent may be better value than other similarly priced hotels. It is
a bit north of the city core, just south of Victory Monument.
111
Districts Pratunam Contact
Contact
Jessie's Minimart, inside the Miami Villa complex at Phetch-
aburi Soi 43/1, is an internet cafe that is open 24 hours and has
a WiFi hotspot available. It is close to the Phetchaburi MRT sta-
tion. There's a free WiFi signal at the Amari Watergate Hotel,
so you might want to have a drink at one of their cafes while
surfing the net.
Get out
Another neighborhood for cheap deals, and just a 15-minutes
BTS ride north, is the Chatuchak Weekend Market in Phaho-
nyothin. As the name implies, it is only open at weekends.
Many of the shops there actually operate in Pratunam during
weekdays. An alternative is the Bobae Market in Rattanakosin,
a wholesale garment market very similar to Pratunam. It is only
four stops away on the Saen Saep Express Boat.
112
Districts Phahonyothin Understand
PHAHONYOTHIN
Understand
Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai
Road () and it was just 22 kilometers, stretch-
ing from Victory Monument to Don Muang Airport. Field Mar-
shal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the
way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in
honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime
Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin).
Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese
border for a length of 1005 kilometers! This article doesn't
stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin
Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Admin-
istration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any
means, stretching 30 kilometers from north to south.
113
Districts Phahonyothin Get in
Get in
114
Districts Phahonyothin See
Map of Phahonyothin
By taxi
Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many
Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive)
of ways to get in. way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both
short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the dri-
ver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always an-
By public transit other one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to
Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100
Skytrain baht. If you're heading up north to Don Muang Airport, expect
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phaho- a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.
nyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road
with the most important areas of the district covered. The line By train
comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're com-
ing from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the Bang Sue Train Station is a worthy alternative for the busy and
Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station. crowded Hualamphong Train Station, but can only be used if
you're heading to the north or northeast of the country. You
The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, before can reach it using the MRT metro system, of which Bang Sue
reaching its final destination at Mo Chit, which is nearby the is the last stop. You can also take the Skytrain to Mo Chit and
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal. continue by metered taxi.
At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system
Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from
there to Ratchadaphisek.
See
Metro
The metro only covers a small part of Phahonyothin, but it actu- Architecture
ally gets higher up than the Skytrain. If you need to go to the far
north, take the metro to Phahon Yothin MRT station and then Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (MRT Pha-
continue your way by metered taxi or bus. The metro is also hon Yothin, then continue by taxi), +66-2-937-3300. The
a more convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the
Market. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugli-
of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interest- est. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that
ing part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape
you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance. clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national ani-
The metro terminates at Bang Sue, an important train station mal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the
that can be used if you're taking the train in northern or north- imagination. The building is used for residential and com-
eastern direction. mercial purposes, so it cannot be entered.
By bus
Do
Phahonyothin stretches as far north as 30 kilometers, and the
BTS and MRT systems don't even reach close to it. So you'll have Major Cineplex Ratchayothin, 234/2 Phahonyothin Rd
to travel as the locals do by bus. Going by taxi is also possi- (MRT Phahon Yothin; at the intersection of Phahonyothin
ble, but that costs a lot more. Keep in mind that bus travel in Road and Ratchadaphisek Road), +66-2-421-6606, . M-W
Phahonyothin is very troublesome, though. Getting from north 10:30AM-midnight, Th-Su 10AM-midnight. Another branch
to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traf- of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is
fic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned bus on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth
59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rat- floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releas-
tanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao es. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English.
San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the 150 baht.
Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang
Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai
Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the
way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak
Weekend Market, Don Muang Airport and finally the Tham-
masat University campus in Rangsit.
115
Districts Phahonyothin Buy
Cafe Dee Dee, Ari Samphan Soi 2 (at the corner of Soi
Ari Samphan and Ari Samphan Soi 2), +66-2-278-4113.
10AM-7PM daily. This is the typical cutesy coffeehouse com-
mon in Bangkok. There's a homey atmosphere as the whole
place is decorated with flowers. A nice place to step in for
some coffee or Thai tea. With a pie or sandwich.
Dbaa, Ari Soi 2 (quite deep down in Ari Soi 2; on the left side if
Map of Chatuchak Weekend Market
you walk from Soi Ari in the north). A hip bar in the Ari neigh-
Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend borhood, popular among the locals.
Market (, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ"), an incredibly vast,
Lesla, Chit Chat Club, Chok Chai 4 Soi 58 (MRT Lat Phrao),
35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8000
+66-2-618-7191, . Sa 7PM-1AM. Lesla is a growing commu-
vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To
nity of lesbians in Bangkok that organizes events for them
put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one
to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-to-
minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and
gether is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neigh-
Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all!
borhood. 150 baht.
A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot some-
thing interesting, as you will never find that same stall again. Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German
Beer Hall), 51/199-200 Moo 1 Khwaeng (at the corner of
Ram Intra Road and Yu Yen Road, at Ram Intra Soi 34),
Eat +66-2-944-5131(-2), . 5PM-1AM daily. This is the sec-
ond branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first
Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular
Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at rea-
restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which sonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and
is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Pha-
migrated into this neighborhood and the bars and restau- honyothin Road, but the trip is well worth it. Most taxis will
rants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger-
streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations
bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more are recommended, especially on weekends.
expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.
Budget Sleep
There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi There are many accommodation options within a fifteen
7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.
are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best
street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan special- Budget
ities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai,
Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi
repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish. 71, +66-2-932-9200, . This "hostel" is not really a hostel,
more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as
it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16 kilometers
Drink from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long
taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good,
Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neigh-
the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's borhood. At least they try all they can, and are very respon-
116
Districts Phahonyothin Contact
sible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money:
a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-conditioning,
pool, fridge, cable TV, room service and a cheap mini bar.
700-800 baht.
Contact
Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other dis-
tricts. Luckily, there is a free WiFi hotspot available near S&P at
the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi
Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).
Cope
Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Sanam Pao),
+66-2-617-2444(-1711), . This is a private hospital that fol-
lows international standards. Multiple languages are spo-
ken.
Get out
Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete
jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and
a hypermodern temple complex.
117
Districts Ratchadaphisek Understand
RATCHADAPHISEK
Understand
Ratchadaphisek, generally shortened to just Ratchada,
breathes entertainment. While Sukhumvit's clubbing scene is
probably the most impressive, it is totally overrun by expats.
Ratchada's clubs, bars, cinemas, massage parlors and shopping
malls almost exclusively cater to a local Thai audience (foreign-
ers are welcome though). Saturday nights are busiest, with Thai
students in their late teens and early 20s flocking in great num-
bers to "RCA", a pedestrian-only road that stands for Royal City
Avenue. Being a government-designated entertainment zone,
clubs here stay open till 2AM, which is one hour longer than
elsewhere in Bangkok. The bars and clubs have spilled over be-
yond RCA onto the many sois Ratchadaphisek is rich.
118
Districts Ratchadaphisek Get in
Get in
119
Districts Ratchadaphisek See
By bus
There are about 20 bus lines covering Ratchadaphisek Road.
Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 136 starts at the Khlong
Toey Market (near Sukhumvit) and then follows the MRT north-
wards, along the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre,
Asoke Road and Ratchadaphisek Road. It passes Sutthisan, Lat
Phrao and Phahon Yothin MRT stations before heading for
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal
(Mo Chit). Ordinary and air-conditioned bus 206 also runs from
RCA Plaza, with movies, go-karts and arcades
Asoke Road north, along Ratchadaphisek Road to the inter-
section with Phahonyothin Road. Ordinary and air-conditioned Ratchadaphisek is Bangkok's entertainment mecca, offering
bus 514 traverses Silom Road and drives along Ratchadamri all the modern entertainment facilities you could expect from
Road, Ratchaprarop Road, Victory Monument and Din Daeng a large metropolis, including theaters, bowling, karaoke, go-
Road to the intersection with Asoke Road, where it heads north karts and even an ice-skating rink. Most facilities are sparkly
along Ratchadaphisek Road to the intersection with Lat Phrao new, as they opened after the MRT line was finalized in 2002.
Road.
Blu-O Rhythm and Bowl, 4F, Esplanade, 99 Ratchadaphisek
Rd (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre), +66-2-511-55443, .
By taxi 10AM-11PM daily. Kind of a weird entertainment venue as
this complex combines karaoke rooms with bowling facil-
You can also pull over a taxi it's okay to say Ratchada ("RAHT-
ities, aimed at upper-middle class Thai ladies. Just the en-
cha-dah" ), as everybody abbreviates it. Taxis are a com-
trance is professional and neat in a glamorous blue, gold and
120
Districts Ratchadaphisek Buy
white style. The karaoke rooms look much like living rooms a completely original experience though, as at daytime you
with a DVD player and touch-screens. The 22-lane bowling can just skate around or take lessons, while at night, this
alleys are world-class. After 5PM, bowlers play with a glow- turns into some swanky club complete with strobe lights,
in-the-dark ball in a dimly-lit environment. There are also live DJs and bars made from ice. Just don't forget to bring
DJs, lounge seats and you can have cocktails. 80-190 baht. jackets.
121
Districts Ratchadaphisek Eat
Tesco Lotus is incorporated in the complex, as are many bar- large menu, making it hard to pick... but that's only good!
ber shops, restaurants and a food court. 250 baht.
122
Districts Ratchadaphisek Contact
Contact
Your best bet for free WiFi is the Esplanade shopping mall.
There are plenty of hotspots available from McDonald's, Cof-
feeWorld and other cafes and restaurants. Just take a sit at one
of the public benches at the ground floor and you won't have
to worry about not finding a hotspot.
Get out
If you like the seafood restaurants in Ratchadaphisek, then
you should definitely check out the delicious seafood dishes
in Yaowarat. Just jump on the metro in southwards direction
and get out at the last stop, Hua Lamphong.
123
Districts Ramkhamhaeng Understand
Get in
RAMKHAMHAENG
Understand
Eastern Bangkok almost stands synonymous to
Ramkhamhaeng Road, a major traffic artery that gets jammed
every morning and evening with daily commuters working in
downtown. Rising property values in Sukhumvit has made this
area more interesting to foreign expatriates in recent years, al-
though seeing a farang is still a rare occurrence. With a total
length of 18 kilometers, Ramkhamhaeng Road starts at Phetch-
aburi Road near Sukhumvit and ends far in the northeast at the Map of Ramkhamhaeng
junction with Suwinthawong Road (in the neighborhood Min
Buri). By boat
The lower southwestern part is known as Hua Mark, a neigh-
Bangkok and its traffic-congested commercial districts, includ-
borhood completely dominated by Ramkhamhaeng Univer-
ing Ramkhamhaeng Road, are hard to navigate by car. Thus,
sity. "RU", as it is commonly known, was opened in 1971 as
the best way to get into the area is by boat. The Saen Saep Ex-
Thailand's first open-admission university. It has an astonish-
press Boat service runs on the canal of the same name, and you
ing amount of students official statistics state about half
don't have to worry about getting stuck in traffic! The service
a million, almost all of them undergraduates. The university
runs about every 5 to 10 minutes and as the canal is exactly par-
gave the neighborhood its lively appearance, with many stu-
allel to Ramkhamhaeng Road wit many stops along that road.
dents shopping and dining at The Mall Ramkhamhaeng. Raja-
mangala Stadium can also be found here. Completed in 1998, It is a fast and inexpensive way of transport as a single trip costs
it played an important role in the 1998 Asian Games and the about 9 to 19 baht, depending on the distance travelled. The
2007 AFC Asian Cup. It is also used as the current stadium of most important stops are The Mall Ram (in Hua Mark) and The
Thailand's national football team. Mall Bangkapi, both of which are served by the NIDA Line (that
starts in Pratunam and goes all the way northeast to Wat Sri-
The junction with Srinagarindra Road is known as Lam Sali in-
boonreung). The route is served by 100 boats of 40-50 seats,
tersection. Go north from here and you'll stumble at Lat Phrao
and operates from 5:30AM to 8:30PM daily. Most piers have
Road, which marks the beginning of a neighborhood known
English signs up, but be wary, as The Mall Ram does not have
as Bang Kapi. It is actually quite similar to Hua Mark, as every-
any sign at all, and from the boat it is not clear that you have
thing still looks like a big grey mass of concrete, but students
reached the mall!
are outrun here by daily commuters. The Mall Bangkapi stole
the hearts of the locals, and Thais flock to it in big numbers. Be wary of sitting at the outer sides of the boat as polluted wa-
For foreigners, there is actually not that much to do. Attractions ter from the canal sometimes spills over on-board. Also be care-
are few and far off, and the shopping malls are lacking com- ful when entering and exiting the boats as "safety first" does
pared to those in other districts. It can easily be skipped on any not seem to apply for the crew here. During rush hour, you
Bangkok itinerary, but then you miss out on seeing where and might have to fight your way in the boat as too many people
how most of the locals live. are trying to get on. Another minor annoyance is the noisy at-
mosphere during the ride, don't expect a sensual experience.
You would almost forget that nearly all foreign visitors to Thai-
land land here at Suvarnabhumi Airport in the far east of the
district. Development in eastern Bangkok has been relatively By public transit
slow, and it is expected that the recent construction of the air-
Opened in August 2010, the Airport Rail Link is an alternative
port will be the motor for more urban development in the area.
way of getting in. The City Line of that service has a stop at
Until now, this has at least been true for the hotel business,
Ramkhamhaeng, which is at the utter southwest of the district
with many new hotels constructed at Lat Krabang Road trying
at the beginning of Ramkhamhaeng Road. There is a direct ser-
to make a buck out of transferring passengers.
vice from Suvarnabhumi Airport in the east, as well as from
Phaya Thai, Ratchaprarop and Makkasan stations in the west.
Do not take the Express Line as it skips Ramkhamhaeng com-
pletely.
124
Districts Ramkhamhaeng Get around
By bus See
Getting to Ramkhamhaeng by bus is very troublesome, but
at least its a cheap way of doing some exploring. Expect a
long ride though, and ask a local where to get off as you eas-
ily get lost in traffic. An important route is bus 40, that starts
at Hualamphong Train Station and then passes Rama IV Road,
Phaya Thai Road, Siam Square, Sukhumvit, Pridi Phanomyong
Road and Ramkhamhaeng Road with The Mall Ramkhamhaeng
as its final destination.
Get around
Getting around this vast district is sure to give you a headache.
The locals use their own transport for attractions that lie too
far off a boat pier or ARL station. Of course, metered taxis
are abundant, but expect long rides and high fares (especial-
ly during rush hour). Buses are cheaper, but without a de-
cent bus map, you are sure to get lost. Bus 58 and 113 from
Makkasan Station drive over Phetchaburi Road and then head
for Ramkhamhaeng Road. Both are useful bus routes for get-
ting around as they travel all along Ramkhamhaeng Road from
Hua Mark in the southwest to Min Buri in the northeast (and
back).
125
Districts Ramkhamhaeng Do
126
Districts Ramkhamhaeng Eat
bank that doesn't charge the 150 baht added commission 3PM-11PM, Sa-Su 7:30AM-11PM. Probably the only bar in
for using foreign cards. the area that caters to foreigners living in the area. You can
shoot some pool or sit outside at the lake. It's a place for re-
laxing, having a conversation and listening to music. There
are 25 different kinds of beer on tap.
Eat
If you're looking for a quick snack, nearly all the sois of lower
Ramkhamhaeng have carts serving simple street food for 50 Sleep
baht or less. Aimed at the locals, prices at these street markets
are remarkably cheaper than in common tourist spots. All three The western end of Ramkhamhaeng Road has lately become
The Mall shopping centers have a big selection of chain restau- more popular among expatriates, as accommodation is cheap-
rants in all shapes and sizes. er than in Sukhumvit and Siam Square, while the Saen Saep Ex-
press Boat brings you to those districts in around 20 minutes.
Chlorophyll Bar and Grill, 82 Lat Phrao Soi 64 (just inside But further off it is still a long taxi ride to downtown.
the soi from Lat Phrao Road), +66-8-707-0268. This Bali-in-
spired restaurant features outdoor dining in a quaint garden The area around Lat Krabang Road has seen a fast develop-
setting. They serve Thai and Japanese fair with an occasional ment of hotels recently due to its proximity to Suvarnabhumi
musician at the weekends. Airport. Many visitors stay the night here in case they arrive or
take off at awkward times. Some visitors are only on transit and
Na Phra Ram 9 Market ( ), never even get to the city itself for those, there are plenty of
Ramkhamhaeng Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng; just south of the accommodation options for all budgets.
intersection with Rama IX Road). Just a simple street food
market at the southern end of Ramkhamhaeng Road. It As Suvarnabhumi Airport is technically in Samut Prakan, there
seems to be at its best during evening commute time, when are also some accommodation options close to the airport in
many locals are picking up snacks at the hawker stalls. You that province.
can get many varieties of satay, fish, rice and many other
things.
Budget
Power Food Center, GF, Central Power Center Huamark, 177
Nasa Vegas Hotel ( ), 44 Ramkhamhaeng
Ramkhamhaeng Rd (between Ramkhamhaeng Soi 27 and
Rd (ARL Ramkhamhaeng; at the intersection of
29), +66-2-718-6000. 9AM-11PM daily. This is the food
Ramkhamhaeng Road and Kamphaeng Phet 7 Road),
court of Central Power Center shopping mall, and it does a
+66-2-719-9888, . You can't miss this hotel walking down the
really good job at it. There are about a dozen separate coun-
road as the building has an enormous size. Rooms are a bit
ters for different kinds of food, including a Japanese, a Thai
small and furniture a bit dated, but they are clean, so for the
and a European food counter and a beverages counter. It
money paid it is a good value. Not really close to the airport,
works with a coupon system, so first buy coupons at the
but it is close to the Ramkhamhaeng ARL stop, which brings
booth. Then you can spend these at any of the counters sur-
you to the airport in about 20 minutes. The downer of the
rounding the central seating area. Recommended for those
ARL is that it runs right beside the hotel, which can give noise
on a budget. 45-70 baht.
in some rooms. 890-2900 baht.
Sinthorn Steak House, 3331/2 Ramkhamhaeng Rd (be-
tween soi 85 and 87, near Lam Sali intersection),
+66-2-377-7322, . 11AM-11PM daily. This steak restaurant is Contact
touted as the largest halal restaurant in Thailand. Obvious-
ly they serve Arabian steaks, but also American steaks, Euro- Most of the hotels have free WiFi, but inform before booking.
pean steaks, Italian food, Thai food and (from 4PM onwards) Getting online on the streets is harder, but you can try the
Korean-style meat buffet. 300-1000 baht. shopping malls. There's a Starbucks with paid WiFi at The Mall
Bangkapi. If you don't want to pay, there's free WiFi at Assump-
tion University in Ramkhamhaeng Soi 16 (Hua Mark). If you
Drink happen to be far out into the 'burbs, Fashion Island also has
free WiFi (but you need to register for a username and pass-
There are plenty of coffee chains at the malls, including a Star- word; follow the instructions from the manual at their official
bucks at The Mall Bangkapi. Some gay bars have congregated website ).
at Ramkhamhaeng Soi 89/2 near Lam Sali intersection. They are
popular among Ramkhamhaeng University students.
127
Districts Ramkhamhaeng Get out
Get out
If you keep driving on Ramkhamhaeng Road and continue on
Suwinthawong Road, eventually you will end up in Chacho-
engsao. Here you can find the large Wat Sothon with a busy
market in front of it (especially fun in the morning). In the
evening, the market magically disappears, leaving no trace of
its existence.
128
Districts Phayonyothin Understand
PHAYONYOTHIN
Understand
Originally, Phahonyothin Road was named Prachathipatai
Road () and it was just 22 kilometers, stretch-
ing from Victory Monument to Don Muang Airport. Field Mar-
shal Plaek Phibunsonhkhram extended the road north all the
way north to Sing Buri, and renamed it Phahonyothin Road in
honor of General Phraya Pholphayuhasena, the second Prime
Minister of Thailand (commonly known as Phot Phahonyothin).
Later it was extended even further, all the way to the Burmese
border for a length of 1005 kilometers! This article doesn't
stretch that long, as it only covers that part of Phahonyothin
Road that is actually within the Bangkok Metropolitan Admin-
istration. But even then, Phahonyothin is a vast district by any
means, stretching 30 kilometers from north to south.
129
Districts Phayonyothin Get in
Get in
130
Districts Phayonyothin See
Map of Phahonyothin
By taxi
Phahonyothin is a major arterial road, and as many
Bangkokians that live here work in downtown, there are plenty Going by metered taxi is the most comfortable (and expensive)
of ways to get in. way to get in and around the district. It can be used for both
short and long distances. Always insist on the meter. If the dri-
ver refuses, get out and get another taxi, as there is always an-
By public transit other one waiting for you. A ride from Sukhumvit or Silom to
Chatuchak Weekend Market shouldn't cost you more than 100
Skytrain baht. If you're heading up north to Don Muang Airport, expect
The Skytrain is an excellent way to get in and around Phaho- a price in the 200-300 baht range, depending on traffic.
nyothin. The BTS Sukhumvit Line runs over Phahonyothin Road
with the most important areas of the district covered. The line By train
comes directly from Siam Square and Sukhumvit. If you're com-
ing from Silom, you must transfer from the Silom Line onto the Bang Sue Train Station is a worthy alternative for the busy and
Sukhumvit Line at Siam BTS station. crowded Hualamphong Train Station, but can only be used if
you're heading to the north or northeast of the country. You
The line passes Sanam Pao, Ari and Saphan Khwai, before can reach it using the MRT metro system, of which Bang Sue
reaching its final destination at Mo Chit, which is nearby the is the last stop. You can also take the Skytrain to Mo Chit and
Chatuchak Weekend Market and the Northern Bus Terminal. continue by metered taxi.
At Mo Chit, the Skytrain intersects with MRT metro system
Chatuchak Park, so you can easily continue your way from
there to Ratchadaphisek.
See
Metro
The metro only covers a small part of Phahonyothin, but it actu- Architecture
ally gets higher up than the Skytrain. If you need to go to the far
north, take the metro to Phahon Yothin MRT station and then Elephant Building, 369/38 Phahonyothin Soi 26 (MRT Pha-
continue your way by metered taxi or bus. The metro is also hon Yothin, then continue by taxi), +66-2-937-3300. The
a more convenient way of getting to the Chatuchak Weekend Elephant Building is one of the quirkiest buildings of the
Market. MRT station Kamphaeng Phet drops you right in front world, and has even won awards for being one of the ugli-
of the main entrance of Chatuchak, arguably the most interest- est. This 32-floor high-rise is composed of three towers that
ing part of the market. Chatuchak Park MRT station also gets are connected to each other on the upper floors. The shape
you there, but you still have to walk to the eastern entrance. clearly resembles a grey elephant, Thailand's national ani-
The metro terminates at Bang Sue, an important train station mal. It even has eyes, ears and tusks, so nothing is left to the
that can be used if you're taking the train in northern or north- imagination. The building is used for residential and com-
eastern direction. mercial purposes, so it cannot be entered.
By bus
Do
Phahonyothin stretches as far north as 30 kilometers, and the
BTS and MRT systems don't even reach close to it. So you'll have Major Cineplex Ratchayothin, 234/2 Phahonyothin Rd
to travel as the locals do by bus. Going by taxi is also possi- (MRT Phahon Yothin; at the intersection of Phahonyothin
ble, but that costs a lot more. Keep in mind that bus travel in Road and Ratchadaphisek Road), +66-2-421-6606, . M-W
Phahonyothin is very troublesome, though. Getting from north 10:30AM-midnight, Th-Su 10AM-midnight. Another branch
to south can take you two hours or more, depending on traf- of the Major Cineplex line of cinemas. The ticket office is
fic. The most important line is ordinary and air-conditioned bus on the second floor, the movies play at the fifth and sixth
59, which runs 24 hours a day. It starts at Sanam Luang in Rat- floors. It is a large cinema with all the new Hollywood releas-
tanakosin and passes by Ratchdamnoen Klang Road (for Khao es. Thai movies are also showed and are subtitled in English.
San Road) and Panfa Leelard pier, the western terminus of the 150 baht.
Saen Saep Express Boat. It then continues through Lan Luang
Road, Phetchaburi Road, and heads north along Phaya Thai
Road, passing Victory Monument. From there, it goes all the
way north along Phahonyothin Road passing the Chatuchak
Weekend Market, Don Muang Airport and finally the Tham-
masat University campus in Rangsit.
131
Districts Phayonyothin Buy
Cafe Dee Dee, Ari Samphan Soi 2 (at the corner of Soi
Ari Samphan and Ari Samphan Soi 2), +66-2-278-4113.
10AM-7PM daily. This is the typical cutesy coffeehouse com-
mon in Bangkok. There's a homey atmosphere as the whole
place is decorated with flowers. A nice place to step in for
some coffee or Thai tea. With a pie or sandwich.
Dbaa, Ari Soi 2 (quite deep down in Ari Soi 2; on the left side if
Map of Chatuchak Weekend Market
you walk from Soi Ari in the north). A hip bar in the Ari neigh-
Northern Bangkok's biggest draw is the Chatuchak Weekend borhood, popular among the locals.
Market (, also "Jatujak" or even "JJ"), an incredibly vast,
Lesla, Chit Chat Club, Chok Chai 4 Soi 58 (MRT Lat Phrao),
35-acre indoor and outdoor market that has more than 8000
+66-2-618-7191, . Sa 7PM-1AM. Lesla is a growing commu-
vendors selling anything and everything under the sun. To
nity of lesbians in Bangkok that organizes events for them
put that number in perspective, if you browsed every stall one
to meet each other. Every Saturday night, a weekly get-to-
minute each, non-stop for eight hours on every Saturday and
gether is held in the Chit Chat Club in the Lat Phrao neigh-
Sunday, it would take you around two months to visit them all!
borhood. 150 baht.
A good rule of thumb is to buy immediately if you spot some-
thing interesting, as you will never find that same stall again. Tawandang Microbrewery (Rong Beer Yereman, German
Beer Hall), 51/199-200 Moo 1 Khwaeng (at the corner of
Ram Intra Road and Yu Yen Road, at Ram Intra Soi 34),
Eat +66-2-944-5131(-2), . 5PM-1AM daily. This is the sec-
ond branch of this popular German microbrewery (the first
Northern Bangkok's hippest place to eat is the area around branch is at Rama III Road near Silom). It is mostly popular
Phahonyothin Soi 7, better known as Soi Ari (or Aree). More among upper middle-class Thais. There's good food at rea-
restaurants can be found in the nearby Rama VI Soi 30, which sonable prices, and a good stage show with many acts and
is also known as Soi Ari Samphan. Many musicians and artists fun music. It is a stretch to find it, as it is far off from Pha-
migrated into this neighborhood and the bars and restau- honyothin Road, but the trip is well worth it. Most taxis will
rants cater to this audience. Just off Ari BTS station, these busy know this place, just ask for the "Rong Beer Yereman" (Ger-
streets are divided into their own sois, with Ari Soi 1 featuring a man Beer Hall) and they should understand. Reservations
bustling market packed with food stalls and the trendier/more are recommended, especially on weekends.
expensive joints around Soi 2 and 3.
Budget Sleep
There are a variety of street food vendors at Phahonyothin Soi There are many accommodation options within a fifteen
7 (Soi Ari). Just off the BTS and around the corner on Soi Ari minute drive off the old Don Muang airport.
are a multitude of street stalls selling some of Bangkok's best
street food, from Chinese-style wonton noodles, Isaan special- Budget
ities such as som tam, larb, gai yaang, as well as pad thai,
Thai deserts and stands that can whip up basically the entire Bansabai Hostel, 8/137 Moo 3, Soi Sahakon 15, Lat Phrao Soi
repetoire of Thai cuisine, all for around 20-30 baht per dish. 71, +66-2-932-9200, . This "hostel" is not really a hostel,
more like a three-star hotel. It is unbelievably hard to find as
it is deep in the sois of Lat Phrao, and about 16 kilometers
Drink from Victory Monument! So budget in some money for long
taxi rides. The English skills of the staff are not that good,
Several bars aimed at young Thai socializers have sprung up at but no wonder, as this is far off in a quiet residential neigh-
the Or Tor Kor farmer's market area, near Chatuchak. A stone's borhood. At least they try all they can, and are very respon-
132
Districts Phayonyothin Contact
sible and hospitable. You get a lot of service for your money:
a huge room, that is very clean, a balcony, air-conditioning,
pool, fridge, cable TV, room service and a cheap mini bar.
700-800 baht.
Contact
Getting online in Phahonyothin is not as easy as in other dis-
tricts. Luckily, there is a free WiFi hotspot available near S&P at
the ground floor of the Shinawatra Tower III (1011 Viphavadi
Rangsit Rd, at Phahon Yothin MRT station).
Cope
Phyathai 2 Hospital, 943 Phahonyothin Rd (BTS Sanam Pao),
+66-2-617-2444(-1711), . This is a private hospital that fol-
lows international standards. Multiple languages are spo-
ken.
Get out
Just follow Phahonyothin Road to the north as the concrete
jungle continues in Rangsit. It has huge shopping malls and
a hypermodern temple complex.
133
City info City info Overview
City info
City info
Overview
Because of its strategic location in Southeast Asia, Siam (lat-
er Thailand) acted as a buffer-zone between the French and
British colonial empires. Bangkok itself has gained a reputation
as an independent, dynamic and influential city. Bangkok is the
political, social and economic center of Thailand, and one of
the leading cities in Southeast Asia.
134
City info City info Full name
The full ceremonial name of the city given by King Buddha Yo-
dfa Chulaloke, and later edited by King Mongkut, is:
This ceremonial name uses two ancient Indian languages, The urban sprawl of the greater Bangkok Metropolitan Area
Pli and Sanskrit, initiated with the only original Thai word extends beyond the borders of Bangkok province, spilling in-
Krung which means "capital". According to the romanisation to the neighbouring provinces of Nonthaburi, Samut Prakan,
of these languages, it can actually be written as Krung-d- Pathum Thani, Nakhon Pathom and Samut Sakhon. The
vamahnagara amararatanakosindra mahindryudhy mahti- province as it is today was created in 1971 when the previous
lakabhava navaratanarjadhn purramya uttamarjanivsana Bangkok province, changwat Phra Nakhon, merged with Thon-
mahsthna amaravimna avatrasthitya shakrasdattiya vish- buri province.
nukarmaprasiddhi (listen) (helpinfo). It translates to "The city of
Bangkok is subdivided into 50 districts (khet, also sometimes
angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable
called amphoe in the other provinces), which are further sub-
city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with
divided into 169 kwaeng (, equivalent to tambon in oth-
nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous
er provinces). Each district is managed by a district chief ap-
Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns
pointed by the governor. District councils, elected to four-
the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vish-
year terms, serve as advisory bodies to their respective district
nukarma".
chiefs.
Local school children are taught the full name, although few
There is also an elected Bangkok Metropolitan Council, which
can explain its meaning because many of the words are archa-
has power over municipal ordinances and the city's budget.
ic, and unknown to all but a few. Most Thais who do recall the
The last elections for local councils in Bangkok were held on 23
full name do so as a result of its use in a popular song, Krung
July 2006. The government of Bangkok is called the Bangkok
Thep Maha Nakhon (1989) by Asanee-Wasan Chotikul and will
Metropolitan Administration or the BMA.
often recount it by recalling the song at the same time, much
as English speakers might sing the alphabet song while recit- The seal of the city shows the god Indra riding in the clouds on
ing the English alphabet. Erawan, a mythological elephant-shaped creature. In his hand
Indra holds a lightning bolt, which is his weapon to drive away
The full name of the city is listed by Guinness Book of Records
drought. The seal is based on a painting done by Prince Naris.
as the world's longest place name.
The tree symbol of Bangkok is Ficus benjamina.
135
City info City info Geography
Bangkok's Chao Phraya River cuts the city between Thon Buri and Krung Thep
core, and is at times referred to as the River of Angels.
Bangkok lies about two meters (6.5ft) above sea level, which
causes problems for the protection of the city against floods
during the monsoon season. Occasionally after a downpour,
water in canals and the river overflows the banks, resulting in
floods in some areas. The Bangkok Metropolitan Administra-
tion (BMA) has recently installed higher banks alongside some
canals to keep water levels from reaching street level. There
are however some downsides for Bangkok's extensive canal
routes, as the city is rumored to be sinking an average of two
inches a year as it lies entirely on a swamp.
Bangkok has a tropical wet and dry climate under the Kp-
pen climate classification system. Average temperatures in the
city are about 2C (3.6F) higher than the ones shown for the
Don Mueang Airport during the 19601990 period. The high-
est recorded maximum temperature is 40.8 C (105.4F) in May Yaowarat Road near the banks of the Chao Phraya River is Bangkok's China-
1983 and the lowest recorded minimum temperature is 9.9 town. The city is home to nearly 250,000 Chinese immigrants.
C (49.8 F) in January 1955. The coldest temperatures were
136
City info City info Geography
Bangkok has 50 districts or khet, which mark the administra- Thailand's business center. From 1985 to 1996, Thailand ex-
tive subdivisions under the authority of the Bangkok Metro- perienced the world's highest growth rates and underwent
politan Administration. These are further subdivided into 169 an economic transformation, Bangkok went through dramat-
khwaeng (), roughly equivalent to sub-districts tambon in ic changes.[citation needed] The Ratchadaphisek area was turned
the other provinces. into a business district which continued through the Asok area
up north for five kilometers (3mi). The Sukhumvit area, stretch-
However, these district areas might not accurately represent
ing 1520km (912mi), gradually turned into a mixed com-
functional divisions of Bangkok's neighborhoods. Throughout
mercial and residential area. Wireless Road and Chitlom are
the years, Bangkok has grown from a city scattered along the
where some of Bangkok's most expensive land plots exist. Part
river to a metro area that spans as many as six provinces. The
of the British Embassy on the corner of Wireless and Rama I
city's main business districts and residential areas are continu-
Roads, nine rai or approximately 14,400m2 (155,000 sqft) in
ously expanding. The influx of foreigners from Western coun-
area, was sold for USD 92 million or THB 3.24 billion.
tries as well as immigrants from neighboring Laos, Myanmar,
Cambodia and many other Asian countries along with the
growth of the Thai population has stemmed hundreds of hous-
ing projects around the metro area, developing communities
along the outskirts. Within years, these communities are en-
gulfed by the greater Bangkok and become another part of this
urban jungle.
137
City info City info Economy
Lumphini Park
138
City info City info Demographics
139
City info City info Transportation
Suvarnabhumi Airport Rail Link Makkasan to the airport, opened August 2010
Transportation
River and canals network
An elaborate network of canals known as khlongs gave
Bangkok the nickname "Venice of the East" at a time when most
transportation was by boat. Today, nearly all of the canals have
been filled in and converted into streets. While many khlongs
still exist with people living along them and markets often be-
ing operated along the banks, most are severely polluted. A no-
table khlong market is the floating market in Taling Chan dis-
trict. Through downtown Bangkok runs the Khlong Saen Saeb,
which has a canal boat service. The wide river Chao Phraya,
flowing through the city, has several cross-river ferries and the
Chao Phraya Express Boat with as many as thirty stops along
the both banks extending as far as the northern suburb of Non-
thaburi.
Bhumibol Bridge
Roads
Several elevated highways, newly rebuilt intersections, and
many partially finished road and rail projects dot the landscape
around greater Bangkok, but have done little to overcome the
notorious traffic jams on Bangkok's surface roads as private ve-
hicle usage continues to outstrip infrastructure development.
140
City info City info Transportation
Inner-City Buses Plans have been approved for a further extension of the BTS
Silom line from Wongwian Yai to Bang Wa (4.5 km/2.8 mi),
A regular bus service is provided by the Bangkok Mass Transit Samrong to Samut Prakan (8 km/5.0 mi), Mo Chit to Saphan
Authority (BMTA) and it operates throughout Bangkok as well Mai (11.9km/7.4mi) and the National Stadium to Phran Nok
as to adjoining provinces around the clock on certain routes. (7.7km/4.8mi). This includes five underground stations in the
Public buses are plentiful and cheap, with a minimum fare of Rattanakosin area. The State Railway of Thailand has also been
7 baht to most destinations within metropolitan Bangkok. Air- given approval to complete the Dark Red and Light Green lines.
conditioned buses have minimum and maximum fares of 11 Alongside, MRT has also begun construction on two new lines,
and 24 baht, respectively. Air-conditioned micro-buses charge the Purple line from Bang Yai to Bang Sue, and the Blue line
a flat fare of 25 baht all routes. A bus route map is available at from Hua Lampong to Bang Khae and Bang Sue to Tha Pra.
bookshops.
For intercity travel by train, most passengers begin their trips
at Hua Lamphong at the southern end of the MRT. Here, trains
Rail systems connect Bangkok to Malaysia in the south, Chiang Mai to the
north, and Nong Khai to the northeast and beyond to Laos.
When viewing the map, not all MRT and BTS lines stop at every
station. Currently, the blue MRT line goes from Hua Lampong
to Asok. The two BTS lines extend from Mo Chit to On Nut, and
from National Stadium to Wongwian Yai. This line's final stop
used to be Saphan Taksin station but has subsequently been
extended across the Chao Phraya River to Wongwian Yai. Sta-
tions with BTS/MRT interchange are Mo Chit, Sala Daeng, and
Asok.
Bus services
Virtually all cities and provinces are easily reached by bus from
Bangkok. For destinations in the southwest and the west, bus-
es leave from the Southern Bus Terminal, west of the city in the
BTS, Skytrain over Sala Daeng Intersection
Thonburi area. For destinations in the southeast, such as Pat-
On the birthday of HM King Rama IX, 5 December 1999, an ele- taya, Ko Samet and Ko Chang, buses leave from the Eastern Bus
vated two-line Skytrain (officially called BTS) metro system was Terminal at Ekkamai. For all destinations north and northeast,
opened. The remains of the failed BERTS (Hopewell) project can the Northern Bus Terminal is at Mo Chit. Bangkok's less acces-
still be seen all the way from the main railroad station out to- sible southern terminal was recently moved even farther out.
wards Don Mueang Airport. Due to the Asian financial crisis of Though Bangkok is well connected to other cities, getting to
1997 construction was halted and the concrete pillars were left the bus terminals often are a challenge in themselves[citation
unused. needed]
.
The MRT subway system opened for use in July 2004. The MRT There are numerous companies that provide bus services with-
connects the northern train station of Bang Sue to the Hua in Bangkok Metropolitan Region. The main operator, Bangkok
Lamphong central railway station near the city centre, while al- Mass Transit Authority, has a service area covering Bangkok
so going through the eastern part of Bangkok. It connects to and its suburban areas in the adjacent provinces of Non-
the BTS system at BTS stations Mo Chit, Asok, and Sala Daeng. thaburi, Samut Prakan, Pathum Thani, Nakhon Pathom, and Sa-
A new high speed elevated railroad called the Suvarnabhumi mut Sakhon. It serves approximately 3 million passengers per
Airport Link, links the city with the new Suvarnabhumi Airport. day. The service hours are 05.0023.00 hrs, except 24-hr night-
The announced opening date after facing many delays was fi- owl service on some routes. In September 2005, BMTA owns
nally set on August 23, 2010. The Airport Express railway and a fleet of 3,579 busescomprising 1,674 ordinary buses and
City line (commuter service) is operated by the State Railway of 1,905 air-conditioned buses. In addition to BMTA-owned bus-
Thailand. It provides a 28.5km (17.7mi) link between the new es, there are 3,485 private-own contract buses, 1,113 contract
airport and the City Air Terminal (CAT) at Makkasan where it minibuses, 2,161 side-street songthaews, and 5,519 vans. In to-
connects with MRT Phetchaburi station and has another con- tal, there are 15,857 buses and vans over 427 routes across 8
nection to the BTS at Phaya Thai. There are plans to extend the zones.
line to Don Mueang and Rangsit (SRT Dark Red Line), but again, Premier Metro Bus 7 Line
this is very dependent on the political situation.
Zone 1: North (Hubs: Rangsit, Bang Khen)
Zone 2: Upper East (Hubs: Bang Kapi, Minburi)
141
City info City info Transportation
Zone 3: Lower East (Hubs: Samrong, Samut Prakan) in international passenger volume. Don Mueang consistently
Zone 4: South Central (Hubs: Khlong Toei) ranked 19th in the world in cargo traffic, and seventh in the
Zone 5: Southwest (Hubs: Dao Khanong, Phra Pradaeng) Asia-Pacific region. Don Mueang is considered to be one of the
Zone 6: West (Hubs: Bang Khae, Thonburi) world's oldest international airports, its opening in March 1914
Zone 7: Northwest (Hubs: Nonthaburi, Pak Kret) making it almost twenty years older than London Heathrow. It
Zone 8: Central (Hubs: Huai Khwang) has three terminals and is located about 30km (19mi) north
from the heart of Bangkok.
Airports On 28 September 2006, Suvarnabhumi Airport (IATA: BKK;
ICAO: VTBS), became Bangkok's official international airport,
replacing Don Mueang. Pronounced Suwannaphum (RTGS), or
loosely Su-wan-na-poom, the airport is located southeast of
the city center in Bang Phli district, Samut Prakan Province.
The progress of Suvarnabhumi Airport dates back to the early
1970s when a large plot of land 8,000 acres (3,237ha) (32km)
was bought. A student uprising in October of the same year
prevented further progress with the development when the
military government of Thanom Kittikachorn was subsequent-
ly overthrown. After several military coups and the Asian finan-
cial crisis of 1997, construction finally began in 2002, after five
years of clearing the site. The first flights landed in Septem-
ber 2006, shortly after another military coup. Its two parallel
runways are connected by the five concourses of the main ter-
Terminal at Suvarnabhumi Airport minal building. The airport features a 132.2-metre (434ft)-tall
control tower, the tallest in Asia and one meter (3.2 ft) taller
than Kuala Lumpur International Airport control tower. It is the
tallest stand alone purpose built control tower in the world. Air-
ports of Thailand Plc. (AoT) have announced another terminal
to accommodate a further fifteen million passengers. This will
be part of Phase 2 of the airport, which is expected to begin
construction in three to five years. The main airline of Suvarn-
abhumi is Thai Airways International.
Transport network
Thai Airbus A340 (HS-TLA) at Suvarnabhumi Airport Khlong Saen Saep Express Boat
Chao Phraya Express Boat
Bangkok is one of Asia's most important air transport hubs. Bangkok Noi Longtail Express Boat
In 2005, more than ninety airlines served Don Mueang In- Sathon-Khlong Toei Express Boat
ternational Airport (IATA: DMK; ICAO: VTBD). It was the 18th Sathon-Wat Dao Khanong Express Boat
busiest airport in the world, second busiest in Asia by passen- Sathon-Samut Prakan Express Boat
ger volume, 15th busiest in the world and fourth busiest in Asia Khlong Phasi Charoen Express Boat (Under new testing)
142
City info City info Education
Taxis
Bangkok has many taxis. Many roam the streets looking for cus-
tomers, but there are also a number of taxi companies whose
vehicles can be booked by telephone. Taxis are metered, with
a fixed starting fare, and charge by distance and waiting time.
143
City info City info Health care and medical centers
ways to deal with the rise in a demand for tertiary education. which have achieved accreditation from the Joint Commission
The demand for higher education has led to the founding of International (JCI).
many other universities and colleges in the metropolitan area.
Vocational/technical colleges are also on the rise. One of such
is SAE Institute Bangkok (started in 2002). In recent years a large
number of private institutions, primarily with Western ties and
Tourism
exchange programs, were established in the capital. The rise in
Main article: Tourism in Bangkok
the number of schools offering English teaching has raised the
bar for many state-run institutions to compete with the stan-
dards set by private education.
Culture
Main article: Culture of Bangkok
144
City info City info Culture
The King and Queen preside over this impressive annual event,
held in the Royal Plaza near the equestrian statue of King Chu-
lalongkorn. Dressed in colourful uniforms, amid much pomp
and ceremony, members of the elite Royal Guards swear alle-
giance to the King and march past members of the Royal Fam-
ily.
145
City info City info Culture
FM radio stations within the Bangkok metro vicinity and 50 AM ative & Design Center as well as many other museums, concert
channels including international brands such as Virgin Radio. halls, theatres, and art galleries. It is home to the Thailand Cul-
Radio stations mainly broadcast in Thai, although some broad- tural Centre and the National Theatre.
cast solely in English due to the growing expat population and
the growing number of locals who enjoy learning English.
Sport
Chalerm Krung Theater and the National Theater have been in
Main article: List of sport venues in Bangkok
operation since the early 20th century whereas the newer Thai-
land Cultural Center hosts a variety of plays and events.
Art
Further information: List of museums and art galleries in
BangkokandList of theatres in Bangkok
146
City info City info Current issues
Sports Club and the British Club, which was established in ways, many tunnels and flyovers, BTS and MRT systems, four
Bangkok in 1903. new SRT lines and BRT Bangkok has eased some of the con-
gestion along specific corridors, but has done little to alleviate
Multicultural Communities overall congestion. The major reason is the continued popular-
ity of private automobiles, and extensive consumer credit for
Bangkok has several concentration areas of people of foreign automobile purchases.
origin. Yaowarat Road is the home of Bangkok's sizable China-
Environmental issues such as air pollution, a large part of which
town, while those of Indian ethnicity have congregated around
is caused by the traffic and dirt left on streets from construc-
Pahurat Road. At the West End of Silom Road was the first Eu-
tion projects, was a major problem. Industrial pollution has also
ropean community in Bangkok called the old Farang Quarter.
contributed to poor air and water quality. Though sulfur diox-
The Portuguese Embassy operates from 1820 and was the first
ide and ozone levels have fallen substantially, PM (particulate
embassy to be established in the capital, with their commu-
matter) still exceeds health standards in some areas. However,
nity around the Santa Cruz Church on the Thonburi side. The
the large volume of trash in the canals must be cleaned out by
Haroon Mosque, a small, attractive stucco building is used by
other means. Mold growth is ubiquitous in Bangkok, as the wet
the local Muslim population. The French Embassy was the sec-
tropical climate makes it grow, and many residents simply ig-
ond to be established in the area within walking distance from
nore it.
the Assumption cathedral, one of the biggest building in the
area, still serving the community. Along Sukhumvit Road com- As in many other Asian cities, the sale of illegally copied copy-
munities of Japanese are around Phrom Phong, Koreatown can right-protected material, mostly software and DVD movies, is
be found around Asok Station and the nearby Nana Station is widespread in Bangkok, but technically illegal.
dense with Arab and Afican cultures and food, "Little Africa"
neighborhood can be found here. Another issue which has given the city a reputation is the sex
industry. Prostitution in Thailand is technically illegal, but can
be found all over Bangkok in vast numbers of massage parlors,
Urban lifestyle saunas, parks, and hourly hotels, serving foreign tourists as well
as locals.
Although it is one of Asia's most important cities economically,
the urban pace of Bangkok is somewhat relaxed, as the city of-
fers enormous amounts of getaway locations. Most residents Crime
tend to stress over the amount of traffic in the city. Peak hours
are between 6:30 am to 9:30 am and 4:30pm to 8:00 at night on Foreign residents and tourists alike complain of widespread
weekdays, with a general state of traffic on Monday morning scams and blatant price gouging. Elaborate gem store scams,
and Friday night. involving earning the trust of a shopper by a westerner who
is in cooperation with local merchants, have robbed tourists
of thousands of dollars, although overcharging is more of a
common occurrence. Commission-based profiteering is com-
Current issues mon for restaurants, hotels, and other kinds of businesses. The
Tourist Police lack police powers and are largely responsible
for writing out reports for insurance companies for victims of
theft. In more serious cases, they will translate reports to be
passed on to the regular police in Bangkok. Also, despite strin-
gent drug laws, the illegal drug trade continues to thrive.
International relations
147
City info City info International relations
148
Events Events Saturday April 26
Events
Events
description
event url www.trvl.es/e/2k1a
Monday April 28
Saturday April 26
place THAiLAND.
174/210 6 . 2 60 2
place THAiLAND. 10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4,
174/210 6 . 2 60 2 Bangkok
10150 Tel : 02-416-8153-4, start Monday April 28
Bangkok end Sunday April 28
start Saturday April 26 description
end Friday April 26 event url www.trvl.es/e/2k1b
149
Events Events Tuesday April 29
150
Restaurants Restaurants Top Best Restaurants
Top Italian
Restaurants
Restaurants
151
Restaurants Restaurants Top Vegetarian
Top Vegetarian
Breeze Restaurant
place The Dome at lebua, 1055 Silom Road | Bangrak,
10500, Thailand
Na Aroon
place 65 Sukhumvit Soi 1 | AriyasomVilla Hotel, 10110,
Thailand
GAGGAN
price $8 - $101
Govinda
May Kaidee
place 33 Samsen Rd, Thailand
Dosa King
price $7
place 153/7, Sukhumvit Road, Soi-11/1 | Express
entrance from Soi-11 next to 7eleven, 10110, Thailand
Anotai
price $4 - $9
place Thailand
Aryaa's Indian Restaurant
place Sukhmvit Road | 164/1, Corner of Soi 8 (on Main
Road), Klongtoey, 10110, Thailand
Khana Khazana
Monsoon
152
Useful info Useful info Sunrise/Sunset
Useful info
Useful info
Sunrise/Sunset
Sun will rise at 06:14:56 and will set at 18:29:45 in local time.
Currency
The currency from Thailand is the Baht (THB).
1 THB costs:
Useful phrases
English Thai
Welcome (yin dee dtn rp)
Hello (s-wt-dee)
Hello(on phone) (hanlh)
Good morning / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good afternoon / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good evening / (s-wt-dee krp/k)
Good night, Night night, Nighty Night, Good night, sleep tight, / (sawt dee krp/k)
hope the bedbugs don't bite!
Goodbye (laa gn n)
How are you? ? (bpen yang rai bang?)
Reply () (s-baai dee krp (k))
What's your name? ? (kun chee rai?)
153
Useful info Useful info Emergency numbers
English Thai
My name is ... ... (pm chu ...) m (d-chn chu ...) f
Where are you from? ? (kun maa jak tee ni?)
I come from ... ...(pm maa jak ...) m ...(d-chn maa
jak ...) f
Pleased to meet you (yin dee te di ro jk)
Good luck !
Cheers! Bottoms up! Down the hatch! Mud in your eye! ! (chai-yoh)
Bon appetit! Enjoy your meal! (frm) Enjoy! Tuck in! Get stuck in! ! (kr hi j-rern aa-han!)
Eat already! (inf/slang) Happy eating! Get your laughing gear
round this! (inf/slang)
Bon voyage / have a good journey (kr hi dern taang doi s-wt-d-
pap) (dern taang doi s-wt-d-pap)
(teow hi s-nk)
Excuse me (kun krp) - m / (kun k) - f / (kr tht)
Sorry () (pm (chn) se-a jai)
How much is this? / How much does this cost? (raa-kaa to ri?)
Please ... (Kor ...)
Thank you Thank you very much Thank you kindly Thanks a lot (khwp khun) (khwp khun mak)
Many thanks Thanks Cheers Ta (used mainly in northen Eng-
land)
You're welcome Don't mention it My pleasure No problem No (mi bpen rai)
probs Not a problem No worries No big deal
Where's the toilet / lavatory / bathroom / restroom / powder ? (hrng nhm yo te ni?)
room / gents/ladies? Where's the loo / bog / dunny / little boys'/
girls' room? (inf/slang)
Would you like to dance with me? (yhk dtn rum mi?)
I love you (phom rak khun) - m (chan rak khun) - f
I don't understand (mi kho jai)
Please say that again ? (poot sam eek tee si?)
(pot et tee di mi?)
Please speak more slowly ? (poot chaa long noi?)
Can you please write it down? ? (kian long bon gra-daat dai
mai?) (cho-ay ke-un long hi
ny, di m?)
How do you say ... in english? ... (phaasa thai ... pot wh yung-
ngai)
Do you speak english? ? (khun phut phsa thai bpen mi?)
Leave me alone! ! (Y yung kap phom) - male speaking
! (Y yung kap chan! - female speaking
Help! ! (chay day!)
Fire! ! (fai mi!)
Stop! ! (yt!)
Call the police! ! (rak dtam-rat maa!)
Call the police! (re-uk dtum-ro-ut mah)
Emergency numbers
Police: 191
Medical: 1669
Fire: 199
Notes: Bangkok EMS Command Center 1646 (Bangkok only), Tourist Police '1155' (English speaking emergency and routine assistance).
154
References References
Reasonable care has been taken in creating this personalized travel guide by combining information from the sources identified
References
under the section 'references'. However, the information is provided 'as is' and there is no warranty about the information in the guide
References
being accurate, complete or up to date. To the maximum extent permitted under applicable law, all liability arising from the use of
this guide will be denied. Verifying critical information (like visas, health and safety) before you travel is recommended.
Weatherdata is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls:
http://www.yr.no/place/Thailand/Bangkok/Bangkok/
Sunsetdata is from Norwegian Meteorological Institute and the Norwegian Broadcasting Corporation yr.no, urls:
http://www.yr.no/place/Thailand/Bangkok/Bangkok/
155
Notes
156
Notes
157