EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CZECH & SLOVAK

REPUBLICS
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

CZECH & SLOVAK

REPUBLICS
 PRODUCED BY Wiedz i ycie
ART EDITOR Pawe Pasternak Stucco decorations on the faade
CONSULTANT Jan Bosnovi of Kinsk Palace, in Prague
GRAPHIC DESIGN Pawe Kamiski
DTP Elbieta Dudziska
MAPS Magdalena Polak
CONTRIBUTORS
Marek Pernal, Tomasz Darmochwa, Marek Rumiski,
CONTENTS
Jakub Sito, Barbara Sudnik-Wjcikowska
PHOTOGRAPHERS
HOW TO USE
Dorota i Mariusz Jarymowiczowie, Krzysztof Kur, Oldich Karasek THIS GUIDE 6
ILLUSTRATORS
Micha Burkiewicz, Dorota Jarymowicz, Pawe Marczak
Dorling Kindersley Limited
INTRODUCING THE
TRANSLATOR Magda Hannay CZECH REPUBLIC
EDITORS Jane Simmonds, Emily Hatchwell
SENIOR DTP DESIGNER Jason Little
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Shane Higgins DISCOVERING THE
Reproduced by Colourscan in Singapore CZECH REPUBLIC 10
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd, China
First American Edition, 2006
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, PUTTING THE
New York, New York 10014. CZECH REPUBLIC
11 12 13 14 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ON THE MAP 12
Reprinted with revisions 2009, 2011
Copyright 2006, 2011 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London A PORTRAIT OF THE
A Penguin Company
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
CZECH REPUBLIC 14
WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT RESERVED ABOVE,
NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED IN OR THE CZECH REPUBLIC
INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY
FORM, OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, THROUGH
RECORDING, OR OTHERWISE), WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN THE YEAR 28
PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT OWNER AND THE ABOVE
PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK.
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. THE HISTORY OF THE
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. CZECH REPUBLIC 32
ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-07566-6966-9
FLOORS ARE REFERRED TO THROUGHOUT IN ACCORDANCE WITH EUROPEAN
PRAGUE
USAGE; IE THE FIRST FLOOR IS THE FLOOR ABOVE GROUND LEVEL. AREA BY AREA
Front cover main image: esk Krumlov, South Bohemia
PRAGUE AT A
GLANCE 50

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is up-to-date at the
time of going to press. Some details, however, such as prices,
telephone numbers and opening hours are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, and cannot guarantee that any website
address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected] St Wenceslas statue overlooking
the eponymous square, Prague

The imposing buildings of Karlovy Vary, one of Bohemias historic spas

 HRADANY
AND MAL STRANA 52

STARE MSTO
AND JOSEFOV 70

NOVE MSTO 86

FURTHER AFIELD
98

STREET FINDER 106 The Morava river flowing at the foot of Devn Castle in Bratislava

CZECH REPUBLIC INTRODUCING CENTRAL SLOVAKIA 306

REGION SLOVAKIA
BY REGION EAST SLOVAKIA 324
DISCOVERING
THE CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA 244 TRAVELLERS
AT A GLANCE 116 NEEDS
PUTTING SLOVAKIA ON
CENTRAL BOHEMIA THE MAP 246 WHERE TO STAY 342
118
A PORTRAIT OF WHERE TO EAT 366
SOUTH BOHEMIA SLOVAKIA 248
134 SHOPPING 396
SLOVAKIA THROUGH
THE YEAR 256 ENTERTAINMENT 400

THE HISTORY OF SPORT AND

SLOVAKIA 260 LEISURE 404

SLOVAKIA REGION SURVIVAL

BY REGION GUIDE
SLOVAKIA AT A PRACTICAL
GLANCE 270 INFORMATION 412

Colourful roofs, Jindichv Hradec BRATISLAVA 272 TRAVEL

Castle, South Bohemia INFORMATION 424
WEST SLOVAKIA 290
WEST BOHEMIA 158 INDEX AND PHRASE
BOOK 432
NORTH BOHEMIA
178

EAST BOHEMIA
194

NORTH MORAVIA
AND SILESIA 212

SOUTH MORAVIA Jindichv

224 Hradec Castle
(pp1445)
6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his guide helps you to get the

most out of your visit to the
Czech and Slovak Republics. The
section at the start of each country
entitled Introducing provides
capital and the individual regions
describe the major historic sights and
tourist attractions, using maps,
photographs and illustrations.
Information on accommodation and
information about that countrys restaurants can be found in Travellers
geographic location, history and Needs. The Survival Guide provides
culture. The sections devoted to each many practical tips.

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 INTRODUCING
THE CZECH
REPUBLIC

DISCOVERING THE CZECH REPUBLIC 1011

PUTTING THE CZECH REPUBLIC
ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC 1427
THE CZECH REPUBLIC THROUGH THE
YEAR 2831
THE HISTORY OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC 3247
10 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

DISCOVERING THE CZECH REPUBLIC

W ith its fortresses and
fairy-tale castles, spec-
tacular natural beauty
and vibrant nightlife, the Czech
Republic has plenty to offer.
and spa towns testify to the nations
historic wealth. The countrys
highlands and forested areas are
a haven for outdoor enthusiasts
and offer a plethora of hiking
Located to the east of Germany, trails, while the museums,
the country has been at the Madonna, galleries and vibrant nightlife of
crossroads of Europe for centuries Wenceslas Prague and other towns will
and its ancient trading villages Square, Prague satisfy city-lovers.

Castle (see p126), housing the

countrys finest art collection.
To the north of the region,
the historic vineyards of
Mlnk (see p126) have been
producing grapes for wine
making since the 14th century.

SOUTH BOHEMIA

Medieval esk Krumlov

Renowned Budvar brewery
Hiking in the umava
mountains
Prague Castle, with the spires of St Vituss Cathedral at the centre
The region of South Bohemia
boasts a wealth of historic
PRAGUE CENTRAL BOHEMIA sights as well as areas of
extraordinary natural beauty.
Historic Charles Bridge Spectacular castles The UNESCO World
Gothic St Vituss Cathedral Atmospheric Kutn Hora Heritage town of esk
Bustling Old Town Square Mlnk vineyards Krumlov (see p152), with its
Sternberg Palace medieval buildings lining the
With its picture-postcard Vltava River, is a popular
Czechs Golden City is at its castles, vineyards and rolling stop. Nearby, beer fans can
most evocative in the early hills, ideal for hiking, Central tour the Budvar Brewery (see
hours, when the fog rises off Bohemia is one of the coun- p139), where the original
the Vltava River beneath trys most popular regions. Budweiser was fermented
Charles Bridge (see pp689). Among the most visited more than 100 years ago.
Throughout the day, scores sights are the 14th-century For nature lovers, the dense
flock to Prague Castle (see Karltejn Castle (see pp1323), forest around the umava
pp545) to marvel at the the historic town of Kutn mountains (see pp1489)
Gothic St Vituss Cathedral Hora (see pp1223), with its offers hiking, mountain
(see pp589) and to see the wealth of beautiful buildings, biking and canoeing.
changing of the guard at such as St Barbaras
noon in the first courtyard. Cathedral, and Nelahozeves
Down below, winding, WEST BOHEMIA
cobblestone streets and
narrow alleys lead to Karlovy Vary spa resort
Pragues Old Town Square Marinsk Lzn walks
(see pp725), where Plze brewery
thousands of visitors
come to see the unusual West Bohemia is most noted
Astronomical Clock, Jan Hus for its spa resorts but it is also
Monument and Church of home to several interesting
Our Lady before Tn. monasteries, large forested
Art lovers should not miss areas and a famous brewery.
the Sternberg Palace (see The spa town of Karlovy
pp6061), which houses an Vary (see p1745) attracts
extensive collection of St Barbaras Cathedral in the snow, visitors from around the
European art. Kutn Hora world who come to bathe in

The colourful faade of the Neo-Renaissance Town Hall in Prachatice, South Bohemia
 D I S C O V E R I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 11

its medicinal waters and to vibrant, university town

drink at its mineral springs. and an important seat of
The town has had its share of the Catholic church. The
famous international visitors, towns art museum houses
including composer Ludwig excellent collections of
van Beethoven and Russian Italian works and 20th-
philosopher Karl Marx. century Czech paintings.
Nearby, the pretty town of The region also boasts
Marinsk Lzn (see p169) is several historic buildings
another spa resort. Visitors including the 13th-century
come here as much for the Sternberg Castle (see p221)
indoor spa treatments as for in Neo-Gothic style and the
the hiking opportunities in 14th-century Gothic fortress
the surrounding area. of Bouzov (see p22021).
Beer enthusiasts make the For nature enthusiasts, a
trip to the town of Plze (see trip to the Javosk Caves
p162-3) to visit the Pilsner Visiting the sandstone rock will not disappoint (see
Urquell brewery where the formations of Adrpach-Teplice p220). This extraordinary
golden brew is made. subterranean complex
stretches more than 3 km
EAST BOHEMIA (2 miles) and features
NORTH BOHEMIA superb stalactite formations.
Skiing in the Krkonoe
Beautiful esk vcarsko Mount Snka cable car
National Park Adrpach-Teplice rock towns
Terezns ghetto
Architecture of Liberec During the winter months,
hikers and skiers flock to the
North Bohemia is home to snowy Krkonoe mountains
some well-preserved old (see pp2089) for their cross-
towns but it is best known country ski routes and good
for the esk vcarsko prices. Mount Snka, the
National Park (see pp1889), countrys highest peak at
also referred to as Bohemian 1,602 m (5,256 ft), is access-
Switzerland. The parks spec- ible by cable car and offers
tacular gorges, scenic villages stunning views. In warmer
and natural rock bridge attract weather, the region offers
hundreds of hikers every year. good climbing in the rock A street in Olomouc, one of
The fortress town of Terezn towns of Adrpach and Moravias oldest towns
(see pp19091) to the south, Teplice (see p210).
became a Jewish ghetto in
1941. Today it is home to a SOUTH MORAVIA
memorial paying homage to NORTH MORAVIA AND
35,000 Jews who passed SILESIA Wine-making in Znojmo
through the ghetto on their and Mikulov
way to concentration camps. Historic Olomouc Brnos pilberk castle
Nearby Liberec (see pp182 Gothic castles and fortresses Caves of Moravsk kras
5), North Bohemias biggest Amazing Javosk caves
city, was a key industrial hub The undulating rows of vines
of the Austro-Hungarian Any trip to this region around the pretty towns of
Empire and a good example should include a stop at Znojmo and Mikulov trumpet
of the regions former glory. Olomouc (see p2169), a the regions ice wines (see
pp2389). During the towns
wine festivals, the grapes are
fermented to make burk, a
sweet and fizzy wine.
The gruesome history of
the mighty pilberk castle (see
pp23031), in the city of
Brno, (see pp 228-9) makes
an intriguing visit, while for a
more relaxing experience the
underground rivers in the
Punkva Caves of the Moravsk
kras region (see p233) can be
Pravicka brna natural rock bridge, esk vcarsko National Park navigated by boat.
12 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Putting the Czech Republic on the Map

Nysa
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u.
The Czech Republic lies at the heart of Central Europe, D4
sharing borders with Germany, Poland and Austria, as 4
well as Slovakia. Comprising the regions of Bohemia in 6
the west and Moravia in the east, the country covers an
area of 78,865 sq km (30,499 sq miles), of which some 30
80 per cent is made up of mountains and highlands; the
highest peak is Snka (1,602 m/5,256 ft), in the
Krkonoe Mountains of East Bohemia. The Czech Dn
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Republic has around 10.3 million inhabit- 13

10
ants, more than 1 million of whom Teplice

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 P U T T I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C O N T H E M A P 13

3
PRAGUE AND ITS ENVIRONS

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 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 15

A PORTRAIT OF THE
CZECH REPUBLIC

T
he Czech Republic has blossomed into a vibrant and
fascinating place to visit in the post-Communist era.
Bohemia and Moravia, neglected under the Communists,
now delight visitors with their picturesque towns and cities, well-
preserved palaces and castles, and magnificent scenery.

Situated in the centre of Since the Velvet Revolution

Europe, the Bohemian Basin of 1989, the Czech Republic
was for centuries a crossroads has experienced a rapid
of trading routes and a place process of change. While
where different religious and those who lived under Soviet
national traditions came into domination have found this
close contact. This cultural economic and social upheaval
diversity has produced a rich hard to accept, the younger
historical heritage, which Vase from the generations have embraced
survives in remarkable con- Glass Museum the change. The speed with
in Harrachov
dition: the Czech Republic which the country is shaking
escaped serious damage during the off the aura of its Communist past
two World Wars, though the decima- is astounding. Soviet-style architec-
tion of the Jewish community and ture cannot be wiped out over-
the expulsion of German-speakers night, but many cities are now
after 1945 had a devastating effect lively cultural and commercial
on Czech society. Wherever you go centres. None more so than Prague,
in the country you will find well- which, as well as being a major
preserved historic buildings and tourist destination, is carving out a
medieval districts, and many role for itself, both political and
attractive towns and villages. cultural, in the European Union.

The view from the terrace of the caf in Stekov Castle, North Bohemia

East Bohemias Hrub Skla Castle, amid colourful autumn scenery

16 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

The pace of change in rural areas has

been much slower. Here, the people
tend to be more inward-looking and
are the most sceptical about the
countrys membership of the EU, rati-
fied in 2004. While 77 per cent of
Czechs voted in favour, only just over
half of the population voted. There is
widespread concern that EU member-
ship will bring rocketing prices and
erode the countrys vibrant folk
culture. This culture is most visible in
the countrys numerous folk festivals,
its music and its art and architecture.
esk Krumlov festival, a typical folk celebration
TRADITION OF DEMOCRACY
The Czechs are very proud of their ranks a result perhaps of the
traditional commitment societys bourgeois roots and the
to democratic values. centuries-long rule by Austrian
This means, on the one bureaucracy.
hand, opposition to any
signs of autocracy, and, on the SOCIAL HERITAGE
other, a deep-seated belief In a country where almost
in the indisputable nature of every town and village has
laws as decreed by the an historic castle or chateau,
majority. Rules and regulations the peoples awareness of
are respected by Czech society their history is strong
much more than in other although this doesnt hold
European countries. The Allegory of Science true in areas of the Czech
by Antonn Benek
Czech peoples high Republic where the chain of
regard for law and order local traditions has been
means that it is rare to encounter any broken: by the murder or deportation
violence while in the country. The of entire Jewish communities by the
widely proclaimed egalitarianism Nazis during World War II, for
seems rather at odds, however, with example, or by the expulsion of
the Czech penchant for titles and German-speakers after the war.
The vagaries of history
also help explain the fact
that the Czechs are the
most secular society in
Europe. Closed and empty
churches bear witness to
the anticlerical feelings of
a nation for whom the
Catholic Habsburg mon-
archy was, for centuries,
the symbol of national
repression. Socially, Czech
Czechs demonstrating during the Velvet Revolution of 1989 atheism means that the
 A P O R T R A I T O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 17

often divisive issues of

divorce, abortion and
childbirth outside
marriage raise relatively
few eyebrows.

PUBLIC VERSUS
PRIVATE
For the Czech people,
spending time with
family and friends is of
paramount importance.
We e k e n d s i n t h e The historic Park Colonnade in the spa town of Karlovy Vary
country are popular,
but the most important venues for literary version of Czech (spisovn
socializing are restaurants, pubs and etina), used in public life, exists
bars. Here, it is easy to strike up a side by side with the colloquial
conversation with local people. version (hovorov etina), which
Visitors shouldnt hesitate to ask if has a different grammar; the latter is
they can join a group of friends at a used on private occasions by all
communal table; indeed, this is social groups.
common practice. Czechs are well- The dramatic changes experienced
educated, and are often well- in the last decade or so have not
informed about foreign events and entirely removed the Czech penchant
politics. It is rare, however, to be for retrospection and a nostalgic cult
invited into a Czech home, which is of old things. An attachment to
regarded as a persons oasis of privacy. favourite clothes, places and customs
The dualism of Czech society is occasionally takes on unusual forms.
also reflected in its language. The Nowhere else in Europe will you see
so many long-haired men who
appear to have been transported
straight from the 1960s and 70s.

THE CZECH REPUBLIC ABROAD

Most Czechs are deeply patriotic and,
by extension, are proud of their
countrys reputation abroad. The
Czech Republics prestige has
undoubtedly been strengthened by
the playwright turned politician
Vclav Havel, admired worldwide for
his relentless defence of democracy
and civil rights. A major role in the
promotion of Czech culture abroad
has also been played by a group of
prominent authors and artists,
including the writers Milan Kundera
and Bohumil Hrabal and film director
The historic heart of esk Krumlov Milo Forman.
18 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Landscape and Wildlife

The Czech Republics western region of Bohemia is
basically a high plateau surrounded by modest
mountains, while Moravia is a largely lowland region
with just a handful of mountains. A depression
called the Moravian Gate (Moravsk brna), which
separates these regions from the Carpathian moun-
tains to the east, played a major role in shaping the
diversity of Central Europes wildlife. It provided a
north-south migration route for many species of plants
and animals. The ease of migration, the diversity of
climates and soils, plus the varied topography have
all contributed to the regions biodiversity. For a
visitor, the only problem is the mountainous and Stalactite in the Punkva Caves in
wooded terrain, which makes wildlife-spotting tricky. the Moravian Karst

MOUNTAINS HIGHLANDS
Most of the mountains in the Czech Republic Much of the country is made up of the so-
are lower than 800 m (2,625 ft). The highest called Bohemian-Moravian Highlands plateau
are the aptly named Krkonoe (Giant) (eskomoravsk Vysoina), which consists of
Mountains in East Bohemia, and it is only schist and granite and is furrowed by the
here that sub-alpine and alpine flora can be valleys of the Vltava and Morava, the Czech
found. The other mountain ranges include Republics two main rivers, and their tributa-
the umava, an unpopulated wilderness in ries. Its upper sections are covered in forest,
South Bohemia, and the White Carpathians while the lower parts are where crops such
(Bl Karpaty) in South Moravia. as rye are cultivated and cattle are bred.

PLANTS Meadows catch

The land in the Czech Republic the eye in the late
is less intensively used than in spring and summer
many other European countries. with their fantastic
The countrys diversity of trees, variety of colourful
plants and flowers is shown by flower species.
the fact that it has the same number
of plant species as neighbouring
Poland, a country four times
the size. These include relatively
large numbers of endemic plants. It is The number of rose species
of concern, however, that in a listing growing in the Czech Republic
of rare and endangered plant species is estimated at over 100. Look
in the Czech and Slovak Republics, out for these on the fringes
more than 80 species are singled out of woodland and in small
as being on the verge of extinction. deciduous thickets.
 A P O R T R A I T O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 19

FAUNA The suslik, or ground

The Czech Republic is squirrel, is related to
home to many animals the marmot and
common to Central chipmunk. It lives
Europe, though their underground in
survival is threatened by colonies, usually
industrial development, in meadows.
intensive agriculture and
tourism. The most numer-
ous larger mammals are
the wild boar, suslik, fox,
hare, roe deer and badger. The gyrfalcon, a
bird of prey found
The otter, a predatory mammal, primarily in mount-
inhabits the shores of reservoirs and ain areas, is the
feeds on fish, frogs and crayfish. worlds largest falcon.

AGRICULTURAL LAND RIVERS AND LAKES

Some 40 per cent of the Czech Republic is Bohemias high plateau is drained by the Labe
cultivated land. Besides cereals and root river (known as the Elbe in Germany), along
crops, a particular feature of the Czech with its tributary the Vltava, the republics
agricultural landscape are the fields of rape, longest river at 430 km (267 miles). Moravias
flax, hops and sunflowers. Vineyards are a principal river is the Morava, which joins the
common sight in some areas, primarily in Danube at Bratislava; the scenery along one
Moravia, where they grow on south-facing of its tributaries, the Dyje, is particularly
hillsides. Most livestock farming is beautiful. The Czech Republic has only a few
concentrated around towns. natural lakes but many artificial reservoirs.

The hop plant (whose dried

flowers are used in the brew-
ing of beer) is endemic in the
Czech Republic, often seen
in damp woodlands and
thickets, or along riverbanks.

The peach-
leaved bell-
The kingcup, with its showy flower is a beautiful
golden-yellow flowers, appears in species which grows
early spring; it favours damp primarily in oak or
habitats, such as meadows and hornbeam forests; it
the banks of streams and ponds. flowers in early summer.
20 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Religious Architecture
The two most momentous periods in
the development of Czech religious
architecture were the medieval and
Baroque eras. The peak of these two
architectural heydays were, respectively,
the second half of the 14th century and
the 18th century (the Late-Baroque era).
In between, vicious religious wars in
the 15th and 17th centuries seriously
affected new architectural development,
and also caused brutal damage to Basilica of St Procopius in Teb, an example of
many medieval churches. Czech Baroque architecture

ROMANESQUE ARCHITECTURE
The oldest churches in the Czech Republic date from the 9th
century. The styles developed during this period culminated in
the flowering of Romanesque architecture in the 11th to 13th
centuries. Romanesque churches fell into three main categories:
rotundas, simple hall churches and triple-aisle basilicas with
apses. Sadly, few of these buildings, which were often quite
opulent with rich architectural details, have survived intact.

St Georges
Basilica in
Prague (see
pp567), begun in
the 10th century,
was altered often
and even partially
rebuilt. However,
it remains the The Rotunda of St Catherine
best-preserved in Znojmo (see p238) is
Romanesque one of Moravias few
basilica in the Romanesque churches to
Czech Republic. have escaped alteration.

GOTHIC ARCHITECTURE The Church of

From the time Emperor Charles IV chose St Bartholomew
Prague as his capital in the 14th century, the in Koln (see
Czech Lands became one of Europes most p124), which
prominent focal areas for the arts. The style shares many
in vogue here was known as the Parler features with St
style, its name derived from that of the Vituss Cathedral
prominent German in Prague, is a
architect Peter Parler prime example of
and his sons. Its the Parler style.
distinctive features
include light and airy
interiors decorated
with intricately
carved details.

St Bartholomews
Cathedral in Plze (see The church in Zlat
pp1645), built from the Koruna (see p156), attached
13th to 16th centuries, to the Cistercian monastery,
has massive columns dates from the mid-14th
supporting classic Gothic century and was worked on
vaulting above the nave. by Peter Parler.
 A PORTRAIT OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC 21

BAROQUE ARCHITECTURE
The Baroque period was the last great phase in Czech
religious architecture. Following the destruction of the Thirty
Years War, a massive rebuilding campaign was launched in
Bohemia. In the 17th century the architects of the new style
were mainly from Italy, but they were later superseded by
more local builders, mainly Germans and Austrians with a
few Czechs. Most talented among them were the Bavarian
Christoph Ignaz Dientzenhofer
and his son Kilian. They helped
to develop the new internal
layout of churches, based on
interlocking geometrical figures.
This spatial sophistication was
accompanied by opulent furnish-
ings, stuccowork and frescoes.
Often executed by top sculptors
and painters, the exuberance of
the decoration reached a peak in The Church of St Nicholas in
the Late-Baroque era. Mal Strana, in Prague (see
pp645), the work of Christoph
The Church of St Mary and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
Magdalene in Karlovy Vary is one of the most innovative
(see pp1745), designed by churches of the time in Europe,
Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, was with its flowing lines and
built in the 1730s. Inside are the flamboyant colours. The
original fine sculptures and a floorplan of the nave consists of
beautiful main altarpiece. a series of interlocking ellipses.

The hospital-
church complex in
Kuks (see p210) was
designed by Italian-
born G B Alliprandi
in 170710. In front
of the hospital is a
terrace with sculptures
by Tyrolean sculptor,
Matthias Braun.

THE 19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES

The 19th century did not see the flowering of any
distinct architectural style; the buildings erected
during this period drew on earlier styles, often mixing
them together. In the 20th century more effort was
made to search for new architectural expression.
Czech architects adopted the geometric forms of
Cubism, and the austere Functionalist style was much
in vogue between the World Wars, most visible now
in Prague and the Moravian capital of Brno.

The Church of
the Most Sacred
Heart in Vinohrady,
Prague, built in
192832, was so
shockingly modern The Church of St Wenceslas in
in its day that it was Prague-Vrovice was designed in 1929
almost Post-Modern. by the Czech architect Josef Goar, a
It was the work of the leading exponent of the avant-garde.
Slovenian architect, The concrete structure, dominated by a
Josip Plenik. tall bell-tower, is denuded of decoration.
22 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Czech Music
The Czech Republic has a rich, largely
home-grown musical heritage. Psalms
written as long ago as the 13th century
used the Czech language. It was
nationalism which, centuries later,
inspired Bedich Smetana and Antonn
Dvok, the most famous of the
Sign on violin- unusually large number of composers
makers house to emanate from this small country.

RELIGIOUS MUSIC OF MOZART IN PRAGUE

THE HUSSITE PERIOD
Mozart visited Prague for
The earliest surviving the first time in 1787, and
pieces of Czech music fell in love with the city. He
include choral elements of returned here to write Don
the Christian liturgy, inter- Giovanni, which he ded- Jan Kubelk, famous Czech
woven with native folk icated to the good people violinist, in around 1908
melodies. The oldest of Prague. The citizens of
known composition is the Prague were entranced by from the legends and history
10th11th-century psalm Mozart: opera was already a of his homeland. Smetana
Hospodine Pomiluj ny popular form of entertain- also borrowed elements from
(Lord have mercy on us). ment, and was open to eve- Czech folklore. Most popular
During the 15th century ryone rather than just the among his large volume of
the reformist Hussite move- wealthy classes. work is his cycle of six
ment began to oppose the symphonic poems known
Latin singing that was the collectively as M Vlast (My
norm in Czech churches; SMETANA AND THE ERA Country), written in 187479
this in turn inspired the OF NATIONAL REBIRTH and whose melodious theme
growth of Czech religious is one of the signatures of
songs. Hussite works were Music played an important Czech music, and his comic
published in hymn books role in shaping the Czech opera The Bartered Bride
both at home and in neigh- national identity. (1866), his most famous
bouring countries, including The first composer whose work internationally.
Germany. The subsequent works espoused the aspira-
development of music in the tions of his countrymen was
Czech Lands occurred during Bedich Smetana (182484), ANTONN DVOK
the Renaissance period, who was active in the 1848
when artistic life centred revolution and, later, the When Smetana died, he
around the imperial court national revival movement. handed the baton to
and palaces of the nobility. While his music was rooted Antonn Dvok (1841
in German Romanticism, it 1904), with whom he had
took its themes primarily worked at the National
AFTER THE DEFEAT AT
THE WHITE MOUNTAIN

After the defeat of the

Czechs in 1620 at the Battle
of the White Mountain,
increased repression by the
Habsburgs forced many
musicians to leave the
Czech Lands. Meanwhile, the
imperial court, which moved
to Vienna, ceased to sponsor
Czech composers. Among
the few musicians who
worked during the 1700s,
the most prominent positions
went to the church music
composers Jan Jakub Ryba
and Frantiek Brixi. Piano recital given by Bedich Smetana for his friends
 A P O R T R A I T O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 23

Theatre. Dvoks first in Czech (18781930). A

musical experience soprano, she performed with
had been playing the Enrico Caruso at New Yorks
violin in his village Metropolitan Opera. Her
band. From these portrait is still used on 2,000-
humble beginnings, crown Czech banknotes.
Dvok became the
source of inspiration
for a new generation CHOIRS AND DECHOVKY
of Czech musicians
and, much later, the In the 19th century
most renowned choirs and amateur wind
Czech composer in instrument orchestras known
the world. as dechovky started to play
At heart a peasant, a significant role in the
Dvok was naturally musical life of Bohemia and
drawn to the folk Moravia. One such choir,
music tradition of his the famous Hlahol ensemble
homeland. He com- Poster advertising a Janek opera from Prague, founded in
bined this with foreign 1860, became an important
influences, from Wagner to and Slovakia. He wrote down element in the shaping of
American folk music. The numerous native folk songs, the Czech national culture.
latter influenced his most investigated the intonation Dechovky remain a typical
famous work, the Ninth of the spoken language, and and widely popular form of
Symphony, subtitled From even notated the sounds music-making.
the New World. This was made by animals and objects:
written during his stint as he gave the name speech
director of the New Yorks tunes to these sounds.
conservatory from 18925. While taking his inspiration
from the very traditional life
and art of country people,
THE TURN OF THE Leo Janeks music was
20TH CENTURY definitely avant-garde. As a
result, his music was not
Among the large group of given the recognition
composers who worked that it deserved at the
during the late 19th and outset. His Glagolitic
early 20th century a prom- Mass (1926), for which
inent place is occupied he achieved renown
by Zdenk Fibich internationally, was
(18501900), a pupil of composed at the very
Smetana. Considered, end of his life. Singer Karel Kryl during a
along with his teacher and Two other musicians performance
Dvok, as one of the worth a mention are
fathers of Czech music, Josef Suk (18741935),
Fibich showed little the pupil and son- MUSIC AND THE DRIVE
interest in folk music in-law of Dvok, FOR DEMOCRACY
or in patriotic themes; and violinist Jan
instead, his works Kubelk (18801940). Music stagnated during the
were inspired by the While Kubelk achieved Communist era: jazz, for
music of Berlioz, fame for his virtuoso example, a hugely popular
Schumann and Liszt. technique and genre, was proclaimed
His Poem is his most interpretation, he was decadent. Yet music also
famous composition. also a composer. played a role in the ideologi-
Despite being a The great German cal conflict. In 1976, the punk
contemporary of composer and conduc- band, the Plastic People of
Fibich, Leo Dvoks viola, from the tor Gustav Mahler the Universe, was put on trial
Janek (1854 Michna Palace (18601911) was for crimes against the state.
1928), born in born in a village This helped ignite the process
North Moravia, near Humpolec in that led to the creation of the
was a much more modern southeast Bohemia. He spent Charter 77 manifesto. Also
composer. He resisted the a significant part of his life in famous for their resistance to
lure of Prague, instead Olomouc and Prague. the regime are the singers
devoting many years of his Another famous name in Karel Kryl and Jaromr
life to researching the folk- the Czech Republic is Emma Hutka, who, until 1989, were
lore of Bohemia, Moravia Destinnov, Emmy Destinn banned from performing.
24 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Art and Decorative Arts

Proof of the wealth of artistic life and traditions in The Krumlov
the Czech Republic is shown by its magnificent Madonna
works of painting and sculpture and a wide range of (c.1390), the
decorative arts. Artists that made a lasting contribution work of an
anonymous
to the arts in Europe range from the 14th-century artist, is one of
painter Master Theodoric and the great sculptor of the best-known
the Baroque era, Matthias Bernhard Braun, to examples of
Alfons Mucha, the undisputed master of the Czech the so-called
Art Nouveau style. Czech artists and sculptors have Beautiful
always enjoyed great respect in their country, and Style in
their works of art are, to this day, the pride of Czech Gothic
numerous museums, galleries and public places. sculpture.

Master Theodoric, court painter

to Emperor Charles IV and one of
the greatest Bohemian artists of
the 14th century, painted this St
Elizabeth, which can be seen at
Karltejn Castle. Pose
symbolizing
dancing

The
voluptuous
gown shows
a masterful
portrayal of
movement.

Jan Kupeck (16671740), who spent

most of his life outside his native Bohemia,
was a highly regarded portrait painter
who pioneered a trend for realism in
Late-Baroque painting. This Self-Portrait
(1711) is his most famous work.

Ferdinand Maxmilian Brokof and

Matthias Bernhard Braun, the two most
famous sculptors of the Czech Baroque,
were responsible for 12 of the statues
on the Charles Bridge in Prague.
A PORTRAIT OF THE CZECH REPUBLIC 25

Pemysl and Libue, one of the

four group sculptures by Josef
Vclav Myslbek (18481922)
now standing in Vyehrad, once
decorated the Palack Bridge in
Prague. The most famous work of
the artist is the equestrian statue
of St Wenceslas in the capitals
Wenceslas Square.

Intricate floral
decoration

Max vabinsk (18731962) was not

only a painter but also a hugely
talented graphic artist. He designed,
among other things, postage
stamps and banknotes.

Soft, flowing
lines typical of
Art Nouveau

Czech glass, crystal

and porcelain were
always highly regarded
throughout Europe. The
most famous manufac-
turers included
Moser of Karlovy Vary
and the Dub porcelain
factory near Teplice.

ALFONS MUCHA
Among the most outstanding exponents
of the European Art Nouveau, Alfons
Mucha (18601939) developed an
instantly recognizable style. Typical
subjects of his numerous paintings and
posters were female figures: graceful,
enigmatic and full of hidden symbols.
Those shown here represent Dance
and Music.

This Baroque
cupboard was
built of walnut and
oak by Frantiek
Maximilin Kaka
(16741766) in
c.1740. It is now Toyen (190280) was a founding
in the library inside member of the Czech Surrealist movement
the Clementinum in the 1930s. Marie ermnov took
(see p82) in Prague. on the cryptic pseudonym Toyen in
order to disguise her gender.
26 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Czech Literature and Film

THE LITERATURE OF
The first concerted effort to write in Czech rather NATIONAL REVIVAL
than in Latin came in the 14th century, when the
work of reformist preachers prepared the way for The counter-reformation,
the writings of Jan Hus. From then on literature and the Germanization
process that accompanied it,
flourished in Bohemia, halted only temporarily by the prevented any revival of a
Thirty Years War. Writers and, more recently, film national Czech literature in
makers, have played an important role in the nations the early 1700s, but by the
history (Vclav Havel, a playwright, even became end of the 18th century the
president), and in its search for a cultural identity. more liberal approach of
Joseph II gave Czech scholars
the chance to revive their
THE HUMANIST PERIOD language. A leading role in
this campaign was played by
The use of the vernacular Josef Dobrovsk (17531829),
spread during the 16th and who codified the Czech
17th centuries, boosted by the literary language. Among
humanist movement and other leading writers active
the boom in printing. The in the movement of national
crowning glory of this age revival was Karel Hynek
was the publication of the Mcha, one of the greatest
Kralice Bible (1579 ever Czech poets.
94), a Protestant The second half of
translation of the the 19th century
Bible in Czech. With heralded the
the Thirty Years arrival of realist
War, however, literature rep-
Ninth-century Book of Gospels, came repression. resented by the
the oldest in Strahovs library Czech, the lan- great Jan Neruda
guage of the (183491), a poet
reformists, all of world renown
EARLY CZECH but died out as a and also the author
LITERATURE written form, and of some fine short
became little more stories. His Tales of
The dawn of literature than a peasant Jan mos the Little Quarter
in the Czech language dialect. But Czech Komensk (1878), set in Prague,
is linked with the Slavic was still used by is a marvellous
writings associated with the exiles abroad. The most portrayal of life in the city.
9th-century missionary work famous exiled writer was Jan
of St Cyril and St Methodius. mos Komensk (15921670),
In the 13th century, religious also known as Comenius. LITERATURE BETWEEN
literature, usually chronicles He won recognition in many THE WARS
and the lives of the saints, fields of science, but became
was still in Latin but started truly famous all over Europe In the period between the
to be accompanied by text for his ground-breaking two World Wars, Czech
written in Czech. ideas on education. writers did not follow a
The 14th century saw more
concerted efforts to write in
the Czech language, in
lyrical poetry as well as
secular and religious prose.
Reformist preachers adopted
Czech as their preferred
language, and it was the
trail-blazing reformer, Jan
Hus (13691415), who made
perhaps the most significant
contribution to the develop-
ment of the Czech language
of the day. He codified the
rules of orthography and
extended the readership of
the national literature to
include the bourgeoisie. The Kralice Bible, the first Czech translation of the Bible
 A P O R T R A I T O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 27

single path. Jaroslav Haek

(18831923) wrote The Good
Soldier vejk, an hilarious
novel that pokes fun at the
Habsburg empire. Instantly
popular, its hero became a
symbol of the Czech nation.
Another prominent figure
was Karel apek (18901938),
famous primarily for his
plays. These included R.U.R.
(Rossums Universal Robots),
written in 1921 and the
source from which the word
robot entered the English
language. In this and other
works, such as his novel
The War with the Newts
(1936), apek combines his Scene from Jii Menzels film Closely Observed Trains
interest in ordinary life with
his love of science fiction. to international fame with
Franz Kafka (18831924), the publication of his novel CZECH CINEMA
a German-speaking Jew, did The Unbearable Lightness of
not write in Czech, but spent Being (1984). With the Velvet Czech cinema earned a
his entire life in Prague Revolution came a new era, reputation as far back as the
and was part of a thriving in which literary life could 1930s, mainly thanks to the
German-Jewish literary circle. flourish and young writers work of Martin Fri and
His bleak works were banned could work unrestrained. Karel Zeman. After 1945 film
during the Communist era. makers struggled to express
themselves in the repressive
THEATRE Communist era; it is not by
REPRESSION AND chance that the most avant-
LITERARY RESURGENCE Czech theatre, which has a garde works of the period
long and worthy tradition, were animated films.
Accompanying the political hit a peak in the 1950s and The more liberal 1960s saw
upheaval of 1948 came 60s with the emergence of the golden age of Czech
curbs on freedom of exp- many small theatres. One cinema, although the Soviet
ression. Socialist realism such was the Theatre on the invasion of 1968 brought this
became the only style Balustrade, which staged renaissance to a rapid end.
acceptable to the authorities. Vclav Havels first play in This success was associated
The period of thaw in 1963. Havel tackled the issue with the work of a group of
the 1960s, which peaked in of life under totalitarianism young film makers, who
1968 during the Prague and was typical of the Czech created the style known as
Spring, inspired a literary theatrical community in his the New Wave. In their
resurgence. Writers such as determination to fight repres- films they tackled moral and
Josef kvoreck (b. 1924) sion. Since 1989, the theatre historical judgments of
and Milan Kundera (b. 1929) has faced other enemies, such World War II as well as con-
penned their first great works as funding crises, but it is temporary moral and social
during this period. kvoreck, still a potent cultural force. issues. One of the young
an ironic chronicler of life film makers was Milo
during and after World War Forman, who fled the
II, is as famous in his home- country after 1968 and later
land as Kundera. Communist achieved international fame
oppression is a common as director of films such as
theme in Kunderas often One Flew Over the Cuckoos
erotic books. A great story- Nest and Amadeus. Other
teller, he was influenced by great movies made in this
the revered Bohumil Hrabal period were A Report on the
(191497), famously scornful Party and the Guests by Jan
of war in his novella Closely Nmec, and Closely Observed
Observed Trains (1965). Trains by Ji Menzel.
Russian intervention in Czech cinemas greatest
1968 forced many writers to success in recent years was
go underground. Some of Kolja (Kolya), directed by Jan
them decided to emigrate, Milan Kundera, world-famous Svrk, which won an Oscar
including Kundera, who shot Czech writer working in Paris for best foreign film in 1997.
28 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

THE CZECH REPUBLIC

THROUGH THE YEAR

T he Czech Republic is a very

popular destination in the
summer, when Prague
and the other main places of
interest get unbearably crowded.
stunning scenery or outdoor
activities, on the other hand, can
have a great time even then.
While large-scale religious
festivals dont really exist in the
It is much better to come in late Czech Republic, there are many
spring or early autumn. While festivals at which you can see
Prague and large towns can still the countrys folk traditions in
offer plenty of entertainment in action, admire local crafts and
winter, castles and palaces in taste traditional cuisine. Through-
many smaller places tend to be out the country, throughout the
closed from early November to A esk Krumlov year, there are famous music,
late March. Anyone who loves festival participant film and theatre festivals.

over the country. Old brooms

are burned and bonfires are
lit, all to ward off evil spirits.

MAY

Anniversary of the Prague

Uprising (5 May). The anni-
versary of the 1945 anti-Nazi
uprising is marked by the
laying of flowers at the
commemorative plaques of
those who died.
Prague Spring International
Concert in St Vituss Cathedral during Prague Spring Festival Music Festival (early May
early Jun). A feast for lovers
Prague Photo Festival (late of classical music, with a
SPRING Marearly Apr). The biggest busy schedule of concerts,
photographic festival in the ballet and opera. The festival
Many people say that spring country held at a variety of traditionally begins with a
arrives earlier in the locations across Prague. performance of Smetanas
Bohemian Basin, encircled M vlast (My Country).
as it is by mountains, than in APRIL Prague Marathon (early
neighbouring countries. May). An annual event
Whatever the case, the Witch-burning (30 Apr). since 1995, the marathon
scenery in spring is gorgeous, A Czech version of route runs through the
with fruit trees in blossom Halloween, celebrated all citys historic centre.
along the roadsides. Without Frontiers
After the winter break, (Bez Hranic) Theatre
castles and palaces start to Festival (late May),
open their gates (some may esk Tn, North
open only at weekends in Moravia. Performances
March and April); it is still by some of the top
easy to find a hotel room, theatre groups from
car parking space or a table the Czech Republic,
at a restaurant. Slovakia and Poland.
PraguePrice March
MARCH (late May).
Thousands of people
The Easter Festival of Sacred walk from the city
Music, (Mar/Apr), Brno. This centre to Price
is held in the magnificent (southwest of
setting of the Cathedral of Prague) to celebrate
St Peter and St Paul. Spring flowers in South Bohemia the arrival of spring.
 T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 29

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine

Hours The greatest number
8 of sunny days occurs
between May and
6 August. The fewest
occur from November
4
to January, during
the winter months,
when the hours of
2
daylight are shorter.
When the snow falls,
0 of course, everything
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
sparkles in the clear
sunlight.

The Czech Republics biggest works of the world-famous

outdoor music festival, in composer, Leo Janek,
Bedich, Smetanas birthplace. who was born here.
Works by Smetana and other International Music Festival
composers are performed. (mid-Junlate Jul), esk
Five-Petalled Rose Festival Krumlov, South Bohemia.
(mid-Jun), esk Krumlov, Staged mostly in the castle.
South Bohemia. On the Organ recitals are held in
weekend nearest the summer the monastery church here
solstice, people dress up in and in churches in neigh-
medieval gear and have a bouring towns.
great time.
International Folk AUGUST
Festival (last week in
Jun), Strnice, South Chopin Festival (mid-
Boy in traditional costume at Moravia. One of the Aug), Marinsk Lzn,
Strnice folk festival biggest events of its West Bohemia. The great
type in Europe. Polish composer visited this
famous resort on several
SUMMER JULY occasions and it now has a
festival in his honour. In
In summer Prague is truly International Film Festival every odd-numbered year
besieged, but even here (early Jul), Karlovy Vary, there is a piano competi-
there are peaceful parks and West Bohemia. Launched tion for budding young
quiet museums and churches. in 1946, this festival pianists (held in
While the capitals streets are is one of Europes Crystal Globe award, early Aug).
buzzing well into the night, top film events, Karlovy Vary Film International
smaller towns go to sleep along with those Festival Bagpipe Festival
much earlier. held in Cannes, (end Aug), Stra-
The majority of folklore Berlin and Venice. konice, South Bohemia. An
events and cultural festivals International Music Festival annual event, staged in the
are staged in the summer. (mid-Junlate Jul), towns castle, this is one of
Jankovy Hukvaldy North the Czech Republics biggest
JUNE Moravia. Devoted to the international folk festivals.

Prague Writers Festival

(early Jun). This event brings
together writers from all over
the world to take part in
lectures and workshops.
Concentus Moravia: Inter-
national Music Festival (all
month). Classical concerts
featuring international
artistes take place in the
churches and castles of
Moravias 13 historic towns.
Smetanova Litomyl: Interna-
tional Opera Festival (Jun/
Jul), Litomyl, East Bohemia. The Five-Petalled Rose Festival, held in June in esk Krumlov
30 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

mm in
100 4 Rainfall
The heaviest rainfall
80 3
occurs during
60 2.4
the summer months
in the Czech Republics
40 1.6 mountainous areas.
Other, low-lying
20 0.8 regions receive
much less precipi-
0 0 tation. Winter
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
snowfalls can be
reasonably heavy.

SEPTEMBER
AUTUMN
Dance Bohemia (early Sep),
Autumn is generally long Prague. Global festival open
and mild, and the weather is to amateur dance folklore
normally pleasant ensembles from all
until early over the world.
November. The International
new cultural Tuba Competition
season begins, with (3rd week in Sep),
theatres, concert Brno, South
halls and opera Moravia. Part of
houses reopening Brnos International
after the summer Music Festival, with
break. Grape year-round events. Performers in costume, Prague
harvest festivals International Autumn music festival
are held in wine- Poster promoting Brnos Theatre Festival
making districts, September tuba competition (2nd half of are performed on the organs
such as Moravia. Sep), Plze, of Olomoucs Church of St
Forests all over West Bohemia. Theatre Maurice (see p216).
the country are invaded by groups from all over
armies of mushroom-pickers, Europe perform. OCTOBER
since gathering fungi is the Organ Festival, Olomouc,
favourite autumn activity of North Moravia. Works by The Great Pardubice
many Czechs. Czech and foreign composers Steeplechase (2nd Sun),
Pardubice, east of Prague.
This famous horse race,
first held in 1874 and run on
Pardubice steeplechase
course, is one of the most
difficult of its kind in Europe.
Day of the Republic (28
Oct). Despite the splitting
up of Czechoslovakia in
1993, the anniversary of the
founding of the independent
republic in 1918 remains a
public holiday.

NOVEMBER

Battle for Freedom and

Democracy Day (17 Nov).
The anniversary of the
Velvet Revolution is cele-
brated all over the country.
In Prague, leading Czech
politicians lay wreaths at the
monument of St Wenceslas
Autumn view of St Vituss Cathedral in Prague in Wenceslas Square.
 T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 31

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE

Temperature
C F Summer is generally
20 68 warm, with the
15 59
average temperature
approaching 20C
10 50 (68F); the coolest
regions are, of course,
5 41 the mountains.
Winters tend to be
0 32 harsh, with the
-5
temperature often
23
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec dropping below zero
in December, January
and February.

WINTER

The snowy landscapes of

the Czech Republic in
winter are stunning, and the
Czechs make the most of the
snow and ice. Ice hockey is
played on frozen ponds
throughout the country,
and cross-country skiing is
another popular activity.
Tourist centres in the
Krkonoe (Bohemias highest
mountains) stage international
sports events, including the
prestigious ski-jumping and Winter scenery in the Krkonoe (Giant Mountains)
ski-flying tournaments in
Harrachov, and the downhill Swimming competitions in FEBRUARY
skiing events in pindlerv the Vltava (26 Dec).
Mln. The roads are kept in Hundreds of swimmers gather St Matthews Fair (late Feb
excellent condition, but on the banks of the Vltava early Apr), Prague. Known
driving conditions can be river in Prague to swim in in Czech as Matjsk pout,
hazardous in the mountains. temperatures not much above this is essentially a giant fun-
Prague fares less well in freezing point 0C (32F). fair. It is held at Vstavit
the winter. On foggy days, fairground in Holeovice.
which are not uncommon, JANUARY
temperatures can drop as PUBLIC HOLIDAYS IN
low as -5C (23F). New Years Day and Founda-
tion of the Czech Republic THE CZECH REPUBLIC
DECEMBER (1Jan). Public holiday.
New Years Day and
Christmas and New Year Foundation of the Czech
season. Throughout Republic (1 Jan)
December countless markets Easter Monday
sell all kinds of Christmas Labour Day (1 May)
merchandise, from tree VE Day (8 May)
decorations to svak (hot St Cyril and St Methodius
wine); just before Christmas Day (5 Jul)
Eve they also sell live carp, Anniversary of Jan Huss
the traditional Christmas death (6 Jul)
delicacy. The arrival of the Czech State Day (28 Sep)
New Year is celebrated with Czechoslovak Independ-
huge and boisterous street ence Day (28 Oct)
parties. Prague experiences Battle for Freedom and
a real invasion of visitors at Democracy Day (17 Nov)
this time, and it is difficult to Christmas Eve (24 Dec)
find a room in a hotel or a Christmas Day (25 Dec)
pension; restaurants and A traditional Christmas
St Stephens Day (26 Dec)
pubs are busy, too. market stall
 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 33

THE HISTORY OF THE

CZECH REPUBLIC

F
rom the middle ages until the 17th century the Czech Lands
played a significant role in European history. Defeat at the start
of the Thirty Years War, however, marked the beginning of three
centuries of domination by the Habsburgs. The joint state of Czecho-
slovakia, founded after World War I, came to an end in 1993.
The Latin name of Bohemia emperor invited Byzantine
derives from the Boii, one of missionaries to spread
the two Celtic tribes who, Christianity in the Slavic
from the 3rd century BC, language. The two monks,
settled in the territories of the the so-called Apostles to the
present-day Czech Republic. Slavs, were later canonized as
Towards the end of the 1st St Cyril and St Methodius.
century BC, the Celts were
dislodged by two Germanic THE PEMYSLID DYNASTY
tribes, the Quadi and the Following the fall of the
Marcomanni. They inflicted Bronze head of a Moravian empire, brought
several defeats on the Celtic goddess about by a Magyar invasion
Romans who, as a result, in 906, a new political
decided not to extend their empire centre emerged in Bohemia under
beyond the Danube. In the end, it the Pemyslid princes. One of the
was tribes from the east who dis- dynastys early rulers, Prince (St)
placed the Germanic tribes in the 5th Wenceslas, improved his states
and 6th centuries. In the 7th century relations with Germany but was
Bohemia and Moravia were briefly murdered by his brother Boleslav in
part of a vast Slav state ruled by the 935. Under Boleslav, Bohemia
Frankish merchant, Prince Samo. became part of the Holy Roman
Empire. In 973 a bishopric (subordi-
THE GREAT MORAVIAN EMPIRE nate to the archbishopric of
The early 9th century saw the rise of Mainz) was founded in Prague. The
the Moravians. They forged an murder of Bishop Adalbert, who
alliance with the Slavs of Bohemia, became the first Czech-born Bishop
and thus the Great Moravian Empire of Prague in 983, stunned Christian
was born. At its peak, in around Europe (see p101).
885, the empire included Bohemia, In 1085 Prince Vratislav II received
Moravia, Silesia and parts of modern from Holy Roman Emperor Henry
Slovakia, Germany and Poland. In IV the (non-hereditary) title of king.
response to German ambitions in He thus became the first crowned
the region, the second Moravian ruler of Bohemia.

TIMELINE
Saints Cyril and Methodius 9th century
Foundation 1085 Coronation
c.167 Invasion of Roman 450 The Slavs of the Great of Vratislav II, first
territory by the Quadi and begin moving Moravian king of Bohemia
Marcomanni into the region Empire
600 BC 1 AD 400 AD 800 AD 1100 AD
863 The Byzantine monks, Cyril and
c.500 BC Celtic Boii 45 AD Methodius, arrive in Moravia Bishop
inhabit territory of Establishment of the Adalberts
present-day Roman province of bejewelled
Bohemia Noricum, south of 983 Adalbert becomes first Czech- glove
the Danube born Bishop of Prague

St Wenceslas and St Vitus by Bartholomaeus Sprnger, c. 1600

34 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

SICILIAN GOLDEN BULL Germans came to settle in

In exchange for supporting Bohemia. They even founded
Frederick II of Sicily in his entirely new towns.
endeavours to secure the Holy Bohemia became the most
Roman Emperors throne, in powerful state within the
1212 Pemysl king Otakar I Empire. During 125469 its
received the Golden Bull of territory expanded to include
Sicily. This edict established parts of what is now Austria.
the right of succession to the The endeavours of Pemysl
Bohemian crown. Bohemian Otakar II to win the throne of
rulers were also made elec- Germany and the imperial
tors of the emperor. The Golden Bull, setting crown met with opposition
The 13th century saw a outBohemian
the heredity of the
crown
from the imperial princes,
rapid increase in both the however. The Bohemian
political and economic kings death at the Battle of
power of Bohemia. Many towns, the Moravian Field (Marchfeld), in
including esk Budjovice and 1278, put an end to the ambitious
Hodonn, were founded during this monarchs plans.
period. The discovery of silver in A period of chaos followed the
Kutn Hora and Jihlava helped trans- death of Pemysl Otakar II. The early
form the Bohemian court into one of death of Vclav II was followed by
Europes richest. Actively encouraged the murder of his heirless son, Vclav
by the Pemyslids, vast numbers of III, in 1306. This marked the end of
the Pemyslid dynasty.

THE LUXEMBURG DYNASTY

By cleverly choosing a member of
the Pemyslid family as his wife, John
of Luxemburg found himself in a
position to secure the Bohemian
throne. While John rarely visited
Bohemia, his son Charles IV,
crowned Holy Roman Emperor in
1355, had much closer links with his
kingdom. Charles IVs reign as King
of Bohemia (134678) is often
described as Bohemias Golden
Age, a period of great economic and
cultural growth. Prague, which
became the imperial capital, acquired
the first university north of the Alps,
a new royal palace and a stone
bridge across the Vltava river; work
started on St Vituss Cathedral, and
the city became the seat of an arch-
Miniature of Pemsylid king Vclav II bishop. The network of roads and

TIMELINE

1278 Pemysl Otakar II 1283

Pemysl king Otakar II killed in the Battle of the Vclav II ascends
lying dead on the Moravian Field the throne
Moravian Field

1200 1250 1300

1306
Pemyslid
1212 Otakar I receives the
The seal used dynasty ends
Sicilian Golden Bull. by Emperor with death of
Charles IV Vclav III
(14th century)
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 35

EARLY HUSSITE MOVEMENT

In the late 14th century the notion
that the source of the social crisis lay
in the Churchs departure from the
teaching of the Gospels began to
gain support. One of the advocates
of this view was a peasant-born
preacher, Jan Hus (13711415). He
became the main ideologue of the
refor mation movement, which
demanded the curtailing of the
Churchs influence over state affairs.
When, following the Council of
Constance in 1415, Hus was burned
Charles IV, with a cross from the French Dauphin at the stake as a heretic, unrest
spread throughout the country. It
navigable stretches of rivers grew reached boiling point in 1419, when
rapidly; weaving, as well as the culti- several Catholic councillors were
vation of cereals, hops and grapes thrown out of Pragues New Town
flourished; the mining of silver, gold, Halls window, in the first Prague
iron and tin all increased. There was defenestration (see p96).
success abroad, too: through
his four marriages
Charles IV extended
his kingdom north
into parts of Poland
and Germany. In
short, Charles pre-
sided over a period
St Wenceslas crown, of great prosperity
worn by Charles IV and relative peace.
Charles IVs son,
Vclav IV (13611419), failed to con-
tinue his fathers success. Hoping to
exploit the weakness of the Church
at a time of increasing crisis for the
Papacy, he engaged in a dispute
with the archbishop of Prague and
some sections of the nobility. The
consequences of this conflict, includ-
ing Vclav IVs own imprisonment
and the weakening of the kings
position, coincided with the effects
of an outbreak of bubonic plague
which, in 1380, ravaged certain parts
of Europe. Jan Hus teaching in Pragues Chapel of Bethlehem

1355 Charles
1346 John of IV crowned 1434 Hussites
Luxemburg killed Holy Roman defeated at
in the Battle of Emperor Crucifix given to Charles IV Battle of
Crcy by Pope Urban V in 1368 Lipany
1350 1400
1415 Jan Hus burned at the stake
1348 Founding of Prague
1344 Establishment University 142031 Emperor Sigismund
of Prague launches five crusades against
archbishopric 1346 Charles IV crowned King of Bohemia the Hussites
36 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

The Hussites
In the 15th century, the followers of Jan Hus
became a major fighting force. They achieved
great successes against the Emperors crusades,
due largely to the skill of their leader, Jan ika.
The Hussites split into the radical Taborites and
the moderate Utraquists (from sub utraque
specie, symbolizing the wish to celebrate Mass
with both bread and wine). While the former
were finally beaten at Lipany in 1434, the
Utraquists recognized papal supremacy in Burning of Jerome of Prague
return for consent for the Czech language to Jerome of Prague, the Czech
be used in church. The Utraquists were active theologian and supporter of Jan Hus
until the Battle of the White Mountain in 1620. and John Wycliffe, was burned at the
stake in 1416. He was condemned for
heresy by the Council of Constance.

Gilded monstrance, Jan ika

carried by a priest. was a brilliant
commander and
a key strategist
of the Hussite
army.

The Czech Nobilitys Letter of Protest

Several hundred seals of the Bohemian
nobility were affixed to a letter protesting
the execution of Jan Hus in 1415.

Sigismund of
Luxemburg
Boosted by papal
support, Emperor
Sigismund (1368
1437) launched five
crusades against
the Hussites. They
all ended in failure.

Satan Disguised as
the Pope GODS WARRIORS
This type of lurid The early 16th-century Codex
image, satirizing the of Jena illustrated the Hussites
corrupt Church victories. Here, the Hussites,
and the excessively who included artisans, urban
free lifestyle of priests, merchants and minor nobility,
was painted on are shown singing their hymn.
placards and carried They are led by their blind
through the streets. leader, Jan ika.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 37

Hussite Victory
REFORMER JAN HUS
(1420)
In the Battle of Vitkov Jan Hus was one of the most
important religious thinkers
the Hussites, led by
of his day. His objections to
Jan ika, won a the Catholic Churchs corrupt
victory over the practices and opulent life-
Catholic army of style were shared by many
Emperor Sigismund. Czechs peasants and
nobles alike. His reformist
preaching in Prague earned
him a huge following and
The chalice was an was noticed by the Papacy,
important symbol which excommunicated him.
for the Hussites, In 1414 Hus decided to
who demanded the defend his teaching at the
right to take wine Council of Constance. Even
at Mass. though he had received a
Farm implements
guarantee of safe conduct
were used as make-
from Emperor Sigismund,
shift weapons by the
Hus was imprisoned and
peasants.
burned at the stake in 1415.

The peasant
army marched
behind Jan ika.

Jan Hus at the stake Wearing

the hat of shame given to
heretics, Hus became
a martyr of the Czech people.

Hussite Shield
Wooden shields like
this one bearing the
arms of Prague were
used to fill any gaps in
the tight formations of
military wagons.

Taborite Wagon
Hussite armies struck
terror in the whole of George of Podbrady
Europe. They employed In 1458 Czech nobles
new methods of elected a Utraquist
combat, including the George of Podbrady as
use of reinforced king. The first and last
battle wagons. Hussite king, he
reigned until 1471.
 38 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

THE JAGIELLONIAN
DYNASTY
In compliance with the
late monarchs wishes,
the Czech nobility chose
as their new king the
Polish Prince Vladislav
Jagiello (14711516),
who, in 1490, also
ascended the throne of
Hungary and moved his
capital to Buda (todays
Budapest). The kings
absence was exploited
Illuminated manuscript of sacred music from Kutn Hora (1471) by the Bohemian nobili-
ty to strengthen their
GEORGE OF PODBRADY own political and economic power.
The end of the Hussite wars in 1434 The fortunes of families such as the
and the dying out of the Luxemburg Rosenbergs and Pernsteins grew; they
dynasty were followed by nine years founded new towns and supported
of interregnum, which ended in 1458, agriculture and trade.
when the Czech nobility elected as A treaty concluded at Kutn Hora
their king George of Podbrady between Catholics and Utraquists in
(145871), a moderate Hussite, who 1485 laid the foundation for religious
also enjoyed the approval of the peace that lasted more than half a
Czech Catholics. century. Ideas of humanism per-
The new king of Bohemia, who colated into the Czech Lands, and
represented the reforming spirit and local architects created Late-Gothic
preached religious tolerance, was masterpieces such as Prague Castles
initially accepted by a number of Vladislav Hall (1502).
European monarchs. In 1462 George In 1526 Vladislavs successor, Louis
put forward a plan to establish Jagiello, was killed fighting the Turks
a League of Christian
Monarchs to resist the Turk-
ish expansion. This visionary
proposal did not, however,
meet with approval and the
kings position was
worsened by the hostile
attitude of Rome. In 1466
Pope Paul II excommun-
icated George and called for
a crusade against the Czech
heretics. The ensuing war
ended only with the death of
King George, in 1471. Late 15th-century view of Mal Strana in Prague

TIMELINE

1458 George of 152664 Reign of Ferdinand I

Podbrady
elected to 1466 Paul II anounces a crusade against Bohemia
Bohemian throne
1450 1475 1500 1525
1490 Vladislav II
1471 Coronation of becomes king of 1526 Louis Jagiello
Vladislav Jagiello, Hungary killed at the Battle
king of Bohemia of Mohcs

Vladislav Jagiello
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 39

pressure from the clergy, combined

with the Emperors deepening mental
illness, forced Rudolph to abdicate in
favour of his brother Matthias.

THE THIRTY YEARS WAR

Rudolph IIs Act of Tolerance failed to
put an end to the conflict between
the Catholic monarch and the non-
Catholic Bohemian Estates. In 1618
representatives of the latter threw
two of the emperors envoys out of
the windows of Prague Castle. This
second Prague defenestration
signalled an open anti-Habsburg
rebellion and marked the beginning
of the Thirty Years War (161848),
Rudolph II and the Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe which was to engulf much of Europe.
In 1620 the army of the rebellious
at the Battle of Mohcs. He left no Bohemian Estates was crushed by the
heir, so based on the political treaty forces of Emperor Ferdinand II at the
concluded in 1515 between Battle of the White Mountain (Bl
Vladislav and Maximilian I, the Hora), near Prague. The collapse of
throne passed into the hands of the the insurgence was followed by
Austrian Habsburgs. severe repression in Bohemia: 27
leaders of the anti-Habsburg oppo-
THE HABSBURGS sition were executed in Pragues Old
Ferdinand I (152664), the first rep- Town Square. Around 75 per cent of
resentative of the Habsburg dynasty, the land belonging to the Bohemian
tried to centralize the monarchs nobility was confiscated; thousands
power, which met with violent of families had to leave the country;
opposition among the Bohemian and dissenters were forced to convert
Estates (essentially the nobility). to Catholicism.
Te n s i o n i n c r e a s e d w h e n
attempts were made to re-
establish the Catholic faith,
which eventually eased when
an Act of Tolerance, giving the
various Christian denominations
equal rights, was signed
in 1609 by Rudolph II
(15761611). This emperor,
who made Prague his capital
and was a great lover of the arts,
presided over Bohemias second
Golden Age. Sadly, intensifying Defeat of the Czechs at the Battle of the White Mountain, 1620

1620 Czech defeat at the Battle of the White Mountain 1621 Execution of 27
leaders of the uprising
Charter for manglers 1618 Prague defenestration. in Prague
and dyers Outbreak of the Thirty Years War
1550 1575 1600 1625
1556 Arrival of 15761611 Reign 1609 Emperors edict 1648 Peace
Jesuits in the Czech of Rudolph II confirming religious freedom of
Lands and privileges of the Estates Westphalia
A ten-ducat ends the
1575 Maximilian II confirms coin of 1634 Killing of Albrecht von Thirty
religious freedom in Czech Lands Rudolph II Wallenstein Years War
40 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

MARIA THERESA AND JOSEPH II

The Thirty Years War, which ended in
1648 with the Peace of Westphalia,
reduced Bohemias international stature
and caused both devastation and
depopulation. The war also elevated
the position of Catholic noble families,
who arrived mostly from abroad and
were granted the confiscated estates
of Bohemian landowners. Many of
the latter went into exile.
With the Czech Lands now firmly
under Catholic control, a period of
intense Counter- Empress Maria Theresa with her children
Reformation activity
followed, spear- made legally equal to Czech. The
h e a d e d b y t h e most important national issues were
Jesuits. As a result now being decided by the central
of the campaign, administration in Vienna.
the majority of the When Maria Theresa (174080)
p o p u l a t i o n c o n - inherited the Habsburg crown, she
verted to Catholi- introduced the principles of the
cism. A major role Enlightenment in the empire. Her
in the shaping of most notable act was to expel the
Emperor Joseph II, the religious con- Jesuits. Her son Joseph II (178090)
the enlightened s c i o u s n e s s w a s felt an even stronger need for change.
despot
played by Baroque He abolished serfdom and even
a r t . D u r i n g t h i s granted certain Christian denomina-
period some outstanding works were tions equal rights. Bohemias Jews, in
created by architects Carlo
Lurago, Giovanni Santini,
and Christoph and Kilian
Ignaz Dientzenhofer;
sculptors Ferdinand Brokof
and Matthias Braun; and
painters Karel krta and
Petr Brandl. The immigrant
Catholic nobility built
themselves grand palaces.
Following the war, the
legal position of the Czech
Crown within the empire
changed. The Habsburgs
were given hereditary
rights to the throne and the
Ger man language was Meeting of Napoleon and Franz II after the Battle of Austerlitz (1805)

TIMELINE

1648 Peace 1781 The Edict of Tolerance allows some freedom of worship
of Westphalia 171140 Reign of Charles VI
signed 178090 Reign of Joseph II

1650 1675 1700 1725 1750 1775

16768 174080
16571705 Vyehrad fortifications Reign of Maria Theresa
Reign of reinforced with new
Leopold I bastions Baroque goblet made of
Czech glass (1730)
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 41

particular, felt the THE SPRINGTIME

benefits of this new OF NATIONS
freedom of worship. In the mid-19th century
However, Joseph II, the Czech Lands, like
often described as an many other European
enlightened despot, countries, became a
was not very popular. scene of revolutionary
In his drive to unify his struggle against
vast empire, he made absolute monarchy.
German the official The demands included
language and central- political autonomy
ized power in Austria. and the granting of
The ruthless enforce- civic rights, including
ment of his reforms freedom of speech,
and the Germanization assembly, press and
of the Czech Lands religion. In June 1848
bred dissatisfaction. an uprising in Prague
Josephs successor, Barricades by the Charles Bridge in was quashed by the
Franz II, was a con- Prague, June 1848 imperial army. Franz
servative who largely Joseph I, who became
swept aside his predecessors emperor that same year, continued
reforms. His most memorable act was the policy of absolute monarchy but
to sign a peace treaty with Napoleon could not prevent the decline of the
following the latters victory at the Habsburg Empire. Following the
Battle of Austerlitz in 1805 (see p232). defeat of Austria by Prussia in 1866,
the so-called Dual Monarchy of
THE ROAD TO NATIONAL REVIVAL Austria-Hungary was established,
In response to the unification creating two independent states
policies of the Habsburgs, u n d e r o n e r u l e r. T h i s
the early 1800s saw the decision was a disappoint-
emergence of a new but ment to Czech politicians,
uncoordinated move- who failed to win the
ment to rebuild Czech same rights for the Czech
culture. The fight to Lands as those enjoyed
restore the position of by Hungary.
the Czech language The disgruntled
became the key Czechs turned their
element of the revival energies to economic
programme. New plays activities. New com-
and literary works were panies (such as koda)
written in Czech. A vital were established, and
role in this revival was new theatres and national
played by Josef Dobrovsk, museums were built.
who wrote a history of Increasing importance
the Czech language Franz Joseph I, a staunch supporter was attached to the
and literature (see p26). of absolute monarchy standards of education.

17921835 181415 1848 The 1867 Founding 1883 Birth of writer

Reign of Congress of Prague of the Austro- Franz Kafka in Prague
Franz II Vienna Uprising Hungarian Empire

1800 1825 1850 1875 1900

18349 1848 Franz
First volumes of Joseph I 186883
17921814 Josef Jungmanns succeeds to Building of
Wars with Czech-German the throne the National
France dictionary Theatre in Franz
Prague Kafka
42 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

The Czech National Revival

The 19th century saw Antonn
the rapid growth of Dvok
Czech culture and the The conductor
shaping of a modern and composer
national consciousness. Antonn Dvok
Playing a vital role (18411904) was
Clock on Old
Town Hall Tower in this process were a major expo-
musicians, artists nent of Czech
and writers, including the composers national music
Bedich Smetana and Antonn Dvok, (see pp223).
the painter Mikol Ale, sculptor Josef
Myslbek and novelist Antonn Jirsek,
whose works inspired a huge popular
response. The Czech language became the
basic tool in the process of shaping the
national identity. Theatres and museums sprang
up all over the country, emphasizing the im-
portance of Czech culture in the nations life.

The National Theatre in Prague

When the theatre, one of the symbols
of the Czech national revival, burned
down in 1881, people from all walks
of life contributed money towards its
rebuilding. The picture illustrates the
ceremonial laying of the cornerstone.

Coat of arms of
Pragues Old Town

Smetanas
Libue OLD TOWN
Written for CLOCK TOWER CALENDAR
the opening of In 1866 the revolving dial on Pragues
the National famous landmark was replaced by a
Theatre in 1881, new one made by celebrated artist
this opera drew Josef Mnes. Individual months are
on legendary symbolized by scenes from peasant
Czech history. life, corresponding with the signs of
the zodiac painted on medallions.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 43

Expo 95 Poster
Vojtch Hynais WHERE TO SEE THE
designed this NATIONAL REVIVAL
Art Nouveau Many fine buildings were
poster for the built during this period in
ethnographic Prague and other major cities;
they include the National
exhibition of 1895. Museum in Prague and
It reflects the new Brnos Mahenovo Theatre.
appreciation of Among the best examples of
regional traditions. Art Nouveau are Pragues
Municipal House (see pp84
Portrait of a Woman 5), with murals by Alfons
A young woman dressed Mucha, and the Modern Art
in traditional costume Gallery building in Hradec
Krlov, designed by Osvald
poses for a portrait in a Polvka (see p199). Pragues
Litomyl studio, in Rudolfinum (see p82) and
c.186070. the National Theatre (see
pp945) both have glorious
interiors by great artists
of the day.

National Museum, Prague

Symbol of the Czech National
Revival, with a glass dome, this
Neo-Renaissance building was
finished in 1890 (see pp9091).

Municipal House in
Prague
The Art Nouveau Mahenovo Theatre, Brno
interior is adorned with Built in 1882, this building
allegories of civic virtues has Corinthian columns and
October by Alfons Mucha. a lavish gilt interior.

Scorpio

Symbols of the months and signs of

the zodiac revolve around the centre.

The First Automobile in

Prague, 1898
Prague businessman, Klubal,
takes a ride around Prague Castle
in the first motor car to be seen
in the capital.
44 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

Russia. Back at home, where there

had been growing anti-Habsburg
dissent, the Czechoslovak National
Council became the supreme political
authority. On 28 October 1918, as the
Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed,
the independent Czechoslovak
Republic was declared in Prague.
Tom Masaryk was its first president.

CZECHOSLOVAKIA
Thanks to the industry established
under the Habsburgs, Czechoslovakia
flourished economically. However,
the ethnic situation was much more
problematic. The new state had a
diverse population made up of some
6 million Czechs, 2 million Slovaks,
and 3 million Germans, as well as
Assassination of Archduke Ferdinand, 1914 communities of ethnic minorities
including Ukrainians and Hungarians.
THE FIRST WORLD WAR While the Czechs were generally
Few Czechs (or Slovaks) had the content with their new situation, the
appetite to fight for the empire other ethnic groups were much less
during World War I, and it was satisfied with their lot.
during the war that the idea of a joint It was thanks to the skills of Tom
Czech and Slovak state independent Masaryk that Czechoslovakia became
of Austria arose. Its main champion such a progressive and staunchly
was Tom Masaryk, a professor at democratic nation. The new Czecho-
Prague University. In 1916, together slovak constitution ensured that there
with Edvard Bene, he created the was, at least for the moment, peace-
Czechoslovak National Council, ful coexistence among the ethnic
based in Paris, which was later minorities by ensuring that any area
recognized by the Allies as the
representative of the future
Czechoslovakia. In May 1918, in
Pittsburgh, USA, representatives of
Czech and Slovak migr organi-
zations signed an agreement that
provided for the creation of a joint
Czechoslovak state after the war.
The political endeavours were
supported by the military efforts of
Czechs and Slovaks fighting on the
side of the Allies. Czechoslovak
legions fought in Italy, France and Signing of the Pittsburgh Agreement, in 1918

TIMELINE

1918 192021 Formation of the Small Entente,

Woman wearing Pittsburgh an alliance between Czechoslovakia,
Czech national Agreement Romania and Yugoslavia
costume

1910 1915 1920 1925

1914 Assassination of 1916 1918 Founding of
Archduke Franz Ferdinand Czechoslovak the Czechoslovak
in Sarajevo. Outbreak of National Republic. Tom
World War I Council Masaryk becomes Poster for 10th
created in president Sokol Rally, aimed
Paris at promoting sport
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 45

with an ethnic community exceeding

20 per cent of the population would be
officially bilingual. This relative calm
disappeared in the 1930s. On top of
the economically devastating Wall
Street Crash of 1929 came political
instability; this coincided with the
growing threat posed by the Third
Reich. Hitlers rise to power in 1933
helped to activate the disgruntled
German minority living in northern
Bohemia and Moravia (the Sudeten- Poster showing the area of the Protectorate
land). They found a voice in the
Sudeten German Party (SdP), a far- only for another six months. In March
right group with direct links with the 1939 Hitler forced the ineffectual Emil
Nazis. The retirement in 1935 of Hcha (Benes successor) to agree to
President Masaryk, to be replaced by make Bohemia and Moravia a
Edvard Bene, couldnt have come at German Protectorate. Nazi troops
a worse time. marched into Bohemia.
Repression against the population,
THE MUNICH TREATY while not as brutal as that seen in
Following the Nazi annexation of Poland, intensified after 1941, when
Austria in March 1938, Czecho- Reinhard Heydrich was appointed
slovakia became Hitlers next target. Reich protector. A concentration
Later that year he demanded the camp was established in Terezn for
Sudetenland. In a bid to avoid war, the Jews brought from Germany,
President Bene agreed that the Austria, Holland and Denmark, as
heads of France (Daladier) and Great well as from the Protectorate. In 1942
Britain (Chamberlain) should nego- Heydrich was assassinated by Czech
tiate with Hitler and Mussolini to paratroopers trained in England.
settle the dispute. In
September 1938 the
four powers signed
the notorious Munich
Agreement, which
handed Sudetenland
to the Nazis. Czech-
oslovakia lost 5
million inhabitants
and a vast chunk of
its land. President
Bene resigned and
left the country.
The nation carved
out by the Munich
Agreement survived German troops entering Prague in March 1939

1935 Election success of the 1935 Edvard Bene succeeds Masaryk

Sudeten German Party as the countrys president
1942 Assassination
1938 Munich of Reinhard
Agreement Heydrich

1930 1935 1940

1939 Creation of the Bohemia and

Moravia Protectorate. Start of the
Edvard Bene, German occupation
president of Czecho-
slovakia 193538
46 I N T R O D U C I N G T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C

nationalization, collectivization and

massive industrialization. There was
also repression and persecution.
Farmers opposed to the collectiviza-
tion of the land were sent to work in
the mines or to prison; clergymen
were sent to concentration camps.
Many people opted to emigrate.

THE PRAGUE SPRING

In the 1960s a reform movement
within the Communist Party took
shape. It demanded
Celebrating Gottwalds new government, 1948 a liberalization of the
Stalinist approach to
VICTORIOUS FEBRUARY economics, politics
On 5 May 1945, in the closing days and individual free-
of World War II, there was an armed doms. After failed
uprising in Prague against the Nazis. attempts to win over
Four days later the city was liberated and then repress the
by the Red Army. Bene returned to reformers, in January
the country as its president. The 1968 President
reprisals against Czech German- Novotn was forced
speakers were inevitable. Thousands from office. The
died and more than 2 million were new First Secretary, Funeral of Czech
forcibly expelled (or fled). Alexander Dubek, student Jan Palach, in
1969
The years immediately after the war declared his wish to
were marked by the rapid rise of the build a socialism
Communist Party (KS). It was the with a human face. The subsequent
party with the most votes at the 1946 democratic reforms, which met with
election, its leader, Klement Gottwald, an enthusiastic reception, embraced
became prime minister and several all aspects of social and political life.
Party members joined the cabinet.
While the Communists had great
popular support, there was growing
dismay among the non-Communist
members of the cabinet. In February
1948, 12 of them resigned, hoping
thereby to bring an end to Gottwalds
premiership; in the event, he man-
aged to orchestrate a Communist
coup, without the military assistance
that Stalin had offered. Failing in
health, Bene resigned. This so-called
Victorious February opened an era
of Stalinization, bringing with it Citizens of Prague queuing for food in 1965

TIMELINE
1966 Oscar for
1945 The Prague uprising. 194955 Period of Ji Menzels film
End of World War II the most notorious Closely Observed
political trials Trains Alexander
Dubek

1945 1955 1965 1975

1948 Victorious 1957 Antonin 1968 Prague Spring. 1977 Charter 77
February Communists Novotn becomes Armed intervention manifesto
assume full power in President by Warsaw
the country Pact countries
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 47

It all came to an abrupt

end on 21 August 1968,
when, on Soviet orders,
troops from the Warsaw
Pact nations invaded
Czechoslovakia. Dubek
and other refor mers
were sent to Moscow,
and people protested in
the streets. Among the
few who died was a
student Jan Palach, who
set fire to himself in
Wenceslas Square. An invading Russian tank after the Prague Spring of 1968
The suppression of the
Prague Spring returned orthodox downfall of the Communist regime. A
Communists to power. Dubek was hastily formed new political party,
replaced by Gustv Husk, a man the Civic Forum, embarked upon
totally subservient to the Soviet Union. negotiations with the outgoing
During the next 21 years of nor- government. On 29 December 1989
malization, totalitarian rule was re- Vclav Havel became president.
established and all dissent quashed.
Many intellectuals fled abroad. THE VELVET DIVORCE
In 1977, a group of politicians and Without the strong, centralizing
intellectuals, including the playwright authority of the Communists, the
Vclav Havel, signed a document historical tensions between Prague
demanding basic human rights. This and Slovakia reappeared. The Civic
so-called Charter 77 became a Forum split into two (the centre-left
rallying-point for all dissidents. Civic Movement and the right-wing
Civic Democratic Party),
THE VELVET and the 1992 general
REVOLUTION elections brought to
In the autumn of 1989 power parties intent on
the wave of democratic breaking up the joint
changes that was state. On 1 January 1993
sweeping across Europe the Czech Republic was
reached Czechoslovakia. e s t a b l i s h e d . V c l a v
In response to a mass Havel remained its
demonstration in the president for two terms
capital, Vclav Havel of office, until 2003. He
and Alexander Dubek was replaced by Vclav
appeared on a balcony Klaus. In 1999 the Czech
in Wenceslas Square on Republic became a
22 November. Their call member of NATO and
for a general strike was Crowds in Wenceslas Square in in 2004 joined the
enough to cause the Prague: the Velvet Revolution European Union.

1984 Jaroslav Seifert 1997 Oscar for Jan Svrks film Kolya
awarded Nobel Prize 2007 Czech Republic joins
for Literature for his 2004 The Czech the Schengen Agreement,
poetry Republic becomes abolishing border controls
Vclav Havel member of the EU with all of its members
1985 1995 2005 2015
1989 Velvet Revolution.
Vclav Havel becomes 1999 Czech
president Republic joins
NATO Serious floods in the
1993 Czechoslovakia splits. Founding Czech Republic,
of the Czech Republic August 2002
 PRAGUE
AREA BY AREA

PRAGUE AT A GLANCE 5051

HRADANY AND MAL STRANA 5269
STAR MSTO AND JOSEFOV 7085
NOV MSTO 8697
FURTHER AFIELD 98105
PRAGUE STREET FINDER 106113
50 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Prague at a Glance
Most major historic sites in Prague are found in the city
centre within the three districts marked on the map. From
Star Msto (Old Town) and Josefov (Jewish Quarter) it is
only a short distance to Charles Bridge and, beyond, Mal
Strana (Little Quarter), from where a steep uphill climb ends
at Prague Castle and Hradany.

HRADANY AND
MAL STRANA
(pp5269)

St Vituss
Cathedral
houses the Bohemian
crown jewels. These fine
relics, shown rarely in
public, include the St
Wenceslas crown and the
royal orb, pictured (see pp589).

Wallenstein Palace,
a Baroque palace built in the
The Church of St Nicholas, in the centre of Mal 1620s for Count Albrecht von
Strana, is perhaps the most magnificent of the Wallenstein, was intended
many fine examples of Baroque architecture in to outshine Prague Castle
Prague (see pp645). (see p66).

View across Charles Bridge to the elegant rooftops of Star Msto

 P R A G U E A T A G L A N C E 51

Maisel Synagogue was founded in

1591 by Mordechai Maisel, then mayor
of the Jewish Quarter. Now it houses one
of the worlds most magnificent
collections of Judaica (see p79).

STAR MSTO
AND JOSEFOV
(pp7085)

NOV MSTO
(pp8699)

Pragues Main Station

features some exquisite Art
0 metres 200
Nouveau decoration, as do
many other buildings in
0 yards 200 Nov Msto (see p91).
 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 53

HRADANY AND MAL STRANA

T he history of Prague
began with the Castle,
founded in the 9th
century high above the Vltava
river. Among the buildings
castle complex has undergone
numerous reconstructions.
Mal Strana (little quarter)
occupies the slopes beneath
Prague Castle and has changed
enclosed within the castle little since the 1700s. Its maze
walls were three churches of streets abounds in lavishly
and a monastery. In around decorated Baroque palaces
1320 a settlement called and churches. Once the realm
Hradany was founded in Stained-glass window of nobles, Mal Strana is now
part of the outer bailey. The in St Vituss Cathedral home to artists and musicians.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Churches, Monasteries and St Vituss Cathedral pp589 2 Palace Gardens i
Monuments Strahov Monastery w Petn Hill a
Belvedere 6 Wallenstein Palace t Royal Garden 7
ernn Palace q
Charles Bridge pp689 s Museums and Galleries
Church of Our Lady beneath Prague Castle Picture Gallery 1
the Chain o Sternberg Palace pp6061 8
Church of Our Lady Historic Streets, Squares
Victorious p and Parks
Church of St Nicholas Golden Lane 5
pp645 r Hradansk Square 9
Church of St Thomas y Little Quarter Square u
Loreto 0 Nerudova Street e
Old Royal Palace 3 CHOTKOVY
St Georges Basilica 4 SADY
U

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LO V DRAICKHO
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LU

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HO
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ZAHRADA

SCHNBORNSK MALTZSK
LOBKOVICK ZAHRADA NMST
VELKOPEVORSK
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ZAHRADA NMST
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Street-by-Street map
N
PETNSK
See pp545
MAL OSTR

SADY

Metro station VTZN 0 metres 200

Tram stop 0 yards 200

GETTING THERE
Church
An easy way to get there is by tram 22 to Prask hrad (Prague Castle),
Cable car to Brusnice or to Pohoelec, or by tram 12, 18, 20 or 22 to Malostransk
nmst. You can also take the metro to Malostransk or Hradansk
Tourist information
stations; both are within walking distance of most historic sites.

The closely packed rooftops above the narrow streets of Mal Strana
54 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Prague Castle

Despite periodic fires and invasions, Prague
Castle has retained churches, chapels, halls
and towers from every period of its history,
from the Gothic splendour of St Vituss
Cathedral to the Renaissance additions of
Rudolph II, the last Habsburg to use the
castle as his principal residence. The
courtyards date from 175375, when the
whole area was rebuilt in Late Baroque and
Neo-Classical styles. The castle became the
seat of the Czechoslovak president in 1918,
and the current president of the Czech
Republic has an office here.
. St Vituss Cathedral
The Powder Tower, used in the This relief decorates St
past for storing gunpowder and as
Vituss Golden Portal 2
a bell foundry, is now a museum.

To Royal Presidents
Gothic reliquary of Garden office
St Georges arm in
St Vituss Cathedral

Prague Castle
Picture Gallery
Renaissance and
Baroque paintings
hang in the restored
stables of the castle 1

Second
courtyard

Matthias
Gate (1614)

First
courtyard

To Castle
Square

Church of the
Castle steps down Holy Rood
to Mal Strana

The castle gates are

crowned by copies of
18th-century statues of
Fighting Giants by
Ignaz Platzer.

The South Gardens, laid

out in the old ramparts,
contain 18th-century statues.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 55

. Golden Lane
The picturesque
artisans cottages
along the inside
of the castle wall
were built in the HRADANY AND
MAL STRANA
late 16th century
for the castles
guards and
gunners 5
LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, map 2.

Dalibor Tower takes its

White Tower name from the first man to
be imprisoned in it.

Old Castle
steps down to
Malostransk
metro

KA
RS
JI

Lobkowicz Palace houses

works of art from the
Lobkowicz familys
private collection. It is
also a venue for concerts.
. St Georges Basilica
The vaulted chapel of the
royal Bohemian martyr St
Ludmilla is decorated with
16th-century paintings 4

0 metres 60

0 yards 60

KEY
. St Georges Convent Suggested route
The convent houses 19th-century Czech
art such as this piece titled Summer
Countryside with Chapel by
STAR SIGHTS
Adolf Kosrek 4
. Golden Lane
. Old Royal Palace
. Old Royal Palace
The uniform exterior of the palace . St Georges Basilica
conceals many fine Gothic and and Convent
Renaissance halls. Coats of arms
cover the walls and ceiling of the . St Vituss Cathedral
Room of the New Land Rolls 3
56 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Old Royal Peter Parler but was badly

damaged in the great fire
Palace 3 of 1541. The same fire
STAR KRLOVSK PALC destroyed Rieds Diet Hall,
but this was rebuilt so its
Prague Castle, third courtyard. intricate Late Gothic vault
Map 2 D2. Tel 224 372 423. can still be enjoyed.
X Malostransk, Hradansk.
v 22. # AprOct: 9am6pm
daily; NovMar: 9am4pm daily.
St Georges
& ^ 7 www.hrad.cz Basilica and
The vast complex of
Convent 4
the Old Royal Palace BAZILIKA A KLTER SV . JI
Titans The Toilet of a Young Lady in consists of several lay-
Prague Castle Picture Gallery ers. The first palace on Jisk nmst. Map 2 E2.
the site, remains of Tel 257 531 644. X Malostransk,
Prague Castle which are still visible in the Hradansk. v 22 to Prask hrad
basement, was built by (Prague Castle). # 10am6pm.
Picture Gallery 1 Sobslav I in around 1135. & ^ 7 www.ngprague.cz
OBRAZRNA PRASKHO HRADU Two further palaces were
built above the original, in The building of St Georges
Prague Castle, second courtyard. Map the 13th and 14th centuries, Church began before 920,
2 D2. Tel 224 373 531. X Malos- followed by the Gothic during the reign of Prince
transk, Hradansk. v 22. # Vladislav Hall, designed by Vratislav, making it the
10am6pm daily (to 4pm in winter). Benedikt Ried for King oldest remaining part of
& 7 www.obrazarna-hradu.cz Vladislav Jagiellon in the Prague Castle. The churchs
1490s. This vast and opulent two distinct light-coloured
The gallery was created in hall is the highlight of the stone towers date from
1965 to display, among other palace. It has superb rib after the 1142 fire. The
works, what remains vaulting and is lit by large wonder ful, austere interior
of the great art collection of windows that heralded the contains the 10th-century
Rudolph II, Bohemias own advent of the Renaissance tomb of Vratislav I, found
Renaissance king (see p39). in Bohemia. The room was opposite the presbytery.
Though many works were used not only for state Also buried in the church
looted in 1648 by the occupy- functions, but also for are Prince Boleslav II, who
ing Swedish army, some fine jousting. The architects died in 992, and Princess
paintings remain, including unusual staircase design, Ludmilla (grandmother of
works by Hans von Aachen with gently sloping steps, St Wenceslas), who was
and Bartolomeus Spranger. allowed knights to enter murdered in 921 and is
Paintings from the 16th the hall without having to revered as the first Bohemian
18th centuries make up the dismount from their horses. saint; her 14th-century
bulk of the gallerys collection; The adjacent Ludvk Wing tombstone is located in the
highlights include Titians was, in 1618, the scene of Gothic side chapel. The
The Toilet of a Young Lady the famous defenestration south portal of the church
and Rubens The Assembly of which led to the outbreak features a 16th-century
the Olympic Gods. Master of the Thirty Years War. All relief depicting St George
Theodoric, Paolo Veronese, Saints Church, behind the and the dragon.
Tintoretto and the Czech Vladislav Hall, was built by The adjacent former
Baroque artists Jan Kupeck Benedictine nunnery is the
and Petr Brandl are among oldest convent building in
other painters represented. Bohemia. It was founded in
The sculptures include a copy 973 by Princess Mlada,
of a bust of Rudolph II by sister of Boleslav II.
Adriaen de Vries. Throughout the Middle Ages
You can see the remains of the convent, together with
the castles first church, the St Georges basilica, formed
9th-century Church of Our the heart of the castle
Lady, believed to have been complex. Many times
built by Prince Boivoj, the rebuilt, the convent and its
first Pemyslid prince to be religious functions finally
baptized a Christian. ceased to operate in 1782.
Today the convent
building houses a mag-
St Vituss nificent collection of
Cathedral 2 Bohemian Mannerist and
The Riders Staircase, Vladislav Hall Baroque art, including some
See pp589. in the Royal Palace fine examples of work by
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 57

artists such as Jan Kupeck, Belvedere 6

Petr Brandl, Bartolomeus BELVEDR
Spranger, Matthias Braun
and Ferdinand Brokof.
Prague Castle, Royal Garden. Map
2 E1. X Malostransk, Hradansk.
Golden Lane 5 v 22 to Krlovsk Letohrdek.
ZLAT ULIKA # 10am6pm TueSun during
exhibitions only. & 7

Map 2 E2. X Malostransk,

Hradansk. v 22. & Built in the 16th century by
Ferdinand I for his beloved
Named after the goldsmiths wife Anne, the Belvedere is
who lived here in the the popular name for Queen
17th century, this short, Annes Palace (Letohrdek Spring flowers in Prague Castles
narrow street is one of the krlovny Anny), one of the Royal Garden
prettiest in Prague. One side finest Italian Renaissance
of the lane is lined with tiny, buildings north of the Alps. Royal Garden 7
brightly painted houses An arcaded summerhouse
KRLOVSK ZAHRADA
which were built right into with Ionic columns, it is
the arches of the castle walls. topped by a roof shaped like
They were constructed in an inverted ships hull clad in Prague Castle, U Pranho mostu.
the late 16th century for blue-green copper. The main Map 2 D2. X Malostransk,
Rudolph IIs 24 castle guards. architect, Paolo della Stella, Hradansk. v 22. # MayOct:
A century later the goldsmiths also designed the reliefs in- 10am6pm daily (to 7pm May &
moved in and modified the side the arcade. In the garden Sep, to 9pm JunAug). 6 7
buildings. But by the 19th is the Singing Fountain, so- www.hrad.cz
century the area had called for its musical sound.
degenerated into a slum and Of the gardens around Prague
was populated by Pragues Castle, the Royal Garden, on
poor and the criminal the north side, is the most
community. In the 1950s all important historically. It was
the remaining tenants were laid out for Ferdinand I in
moved and the area restored 1534, and became famous for
to something like its original its rare and exotic plants. Some
state. Most of the houses fine examples of 16th-century
were converted into shops garden architecture have
selling books, Bohemian survived, notably the Belvedere
glass and other souvenirs for and the Ball Game Hall
visitors, who now flock to (Movna). The latter is covered
this narrow lane. in much-restored but still
Golden Lane has been beautiful Renaissance sgraffito.
home to some well-known The garden is a beautiful
writers, including Franz place for a stroll, especially
Kafka (see pp267), who in spring when thousands of
stayed at No. 22 with his tulips bloom in its immaculate
sister for a few months beds. This is where tulips
in 191617. (originally from Turkey) were
Despite the streets name, Bronze Singing Fountain in the first acclimatized to the North
Rudolph IIs alchemists never Belvedere gardens European climate.
produced gold here. Their
labs were in Viksk, the
lane between St Vituss and PARADISE GARDEN
the Powder Tower (Mihula). The South Gardens below
Prague Castle were developed
in stages, the oldest part being
the Paradise Garden, first laid
out in 1559. In the 1920s, as part
of President Masaryks plan to
revamp the castle, Josip Plenik,
a Slovenian architect, redesigned
the gardens. He was responsible
for the spiralling Bull Staircase,
which leads from the Paradise
Garden up to Prague Castle.

One of the tiny houses in Pleniks ingenious Bull Staircase

Golden Lane
58 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

St Vituss Cathedral 2
CHRM SV . VTA
Work began on the citys most distinctive Chancel
landmark in 1344. Peter Parler was largely The chancel, first
responsible for the grandiose Gothic design, built by Parler
though the building was not finally and repaired in
completed for another 600 years. The Neo-Gothic style,
cathedral contains the tomb of Good King is remarkable
Wenceslas, some fine works of art, among for its vault,
them an exquisite Alfons Mucha window. counterpointed
by the intricacy
Twin west of the webbed
spires
tracery.
Triforium

Rose Window
Designed by Frantiek
Kysela in the 1920s, the
window above the portals
depicts scenes from the
biblical story of the Creation.

West front

Gargoyles
On the ornate west
front gutter spouts are given
Nave
their traditional disguise.
Main entrance

TIMELINE
c.925 Rotunda of 1359 Masterbuilder 1619
St Vitus built by St Peter Parler Calvinists 1929 Consecration of
Wenceslas summoned to take over completed cathedral,
continue work on cathedral as nearly 1,000 years
the cathedral Bust of Peter Parler house of after death of
on triforium prayer St Wenceslas

1000 1200 1400 1600 1800

1060 Building Tomb of Pemysl 1421 Hussites 1589 Royal tomb 1872 Joseph
of triple-aisled Otakar II occupy St completed Mocker begins
basilica begins Vituss work on west
on orders of nave
Prince 1344 King John of Luxembourg founds
Spytihnv Gothic cathedral. French architect 1770 New steeple added
Matthew of Arras begins work to tower after fire

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 59

. Flying Buttresses VISITORS CHECKLIST

The slender buttresses that sur-
round the exterior of the nave and Prague Castle, third courtyard.
chancel, supporting the vaulted Map 2 D2. X Hradansk,
Malostransk. v 22 to Prask
interior, are richly decorated like
hrad (Prague Castle) or to
the rest of the cathedral. U Pranho mostu. Cathedral
#9am4pm MonSat (to 6pm
The Renaissance bell Chancel AprOct), noon4pm Sun (to
tower is capped with 6pm AprOct). 5 Mass 7am
a Baroque helmet. MonSat, 8am, 9:30am, 11am
Sun. 6 7 www.mekapha.cz

. Chapel of
St Wenceslas
This opulent,
jewel-studded
chapel, home to
the saints tomb,
is the highlight of
a visit to St Vituss.
This bronze ring
hangs on the chapels
north portal.

To Old Royal Palace

(see p56)

The tomb of
St Wenceslas is connected
to an altar, decorated with
semi-precious stones.

. Golden Portal
Until the 19th century this was the
main cathedral entrance, and it is still
used on special occasions. Above it is a
mosaic of The Last Judgment by
14th-century Venetian craftsmen.

Gothic Vaulting STAR FEATURES

The skills of architect
. Chapel of
Peter Parler are never
St Wenceslas
more clearly seen than
in the delicate fans of . Flying Buttresses
ribbing that support
the three Gothic arches . Golden Portal
of the Golden Portal.
60 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Sternberg Palace 8
TERNBERSK PALC
Franz Josef Sternberg founded the Society of Patriotic
Friends of the Arts in Bohemia in 1796. Fellow
noblemen woul d lend their finest sculptures and
pictures to the society, which had its headquarters in
the early 18th-century Sternberg Palace. Since 1949,
the fine Baroque building has housed the National
Gallerys collection of European art, with its superb
range of Old Masters.

The Lamentation of Christ

The frozen, sculptural
figures make this one of the
finest paintings by Lorenzo
Monaco (1408).
First
floor

Cardinal Cesis Garden in Rome

Henrick van Cleves painting (1548) provides a
valuable image of a Renaissance collection of
antiquities. The garden was later destroyed.

Garden
Room

Stairs to
second
floor

STAR FEATURES
. Scholar in his Study
by Rembrandt
Ground
floor
Stairs to . Head of Christ by
first floor
El Greco

. The Martyrdom
of St Thomas by
Ticket Passageway
office to Castle Rubens
Square
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 61

. Scholar in his Study VISITORS CHECKLIST

In this painting from
1634 Rembrandt used Hradansk nmst 15.
Map 1 C2. Tel 233 090 542.
keenly observed detail to
X Hradansk, Malostransk.
convey wisdom in the v 22 or 23 to Prask hrad
face of the old scholar. (Prague Castle) or to Brusnice.
# 10am6pm TueSun (last
guided tour at 5pm). & ^ 8
- www.ngprague.cz

Chinese
Cabinet

Eden (1618)
Roelandt Savery studied the animals
in the menagerie of Emperor Rudolph
Second II. He liked to include them in his
floor biblical and mythological works.

GALLERY GUIDE
The gallery is arranged on
three floors around the central
courtyard of the palace. The
ground floor, reached from
the courtyard, houses German
and Austrian art from the
15th to 19th centuries. The
stairs to the upper floors are
opposite the ticket office at
Stairs down to the main entrance.
other floors
and exit
. Head of Christ
Painted by El Greco in the KEY
1590s, this portrait
German and Austrian Art
emphasizes the humanity of 14001800
Christ. At the same time the
Flemish and Dutch Art
curious square halo gives 14001600
the painting the qualities
Italian Art 14001500
of an ancient icon.
Roman Art

Flemish and Dutch Art

16001800
French Art 16001800

Icons, Classical and Ancient Art

. The Martyrdom of Venice 17001800 and Goya

St Thomas Spanish Art 16001800
This magnificent work is
Naples and Venice 16001700
by Peter Paul Rubens, the
foremost Flemish Baroque Italian Art 15001600
painter of the 17th century. Non-exhibition space
62 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Hradansk Pragues Loreto complex.

Square 9 In it, stuccoes and statues
show characters from the Old
HRADANSK NMST Testament and scenes from
the life of the Virgin Mary.
Map 2 D3. X Malostransk, The Santa Casa is enclosed
Hradansk. v 22. by lavishly decorated 17th-
Schwarzenberg Palace century cloisters, which meet
#10am6pm TueSun. on one side at the Baroque
Church of the Nativity.
The vast square in front of The Loretos treasury has
Prague Castle was once the many valuable liturgical
home of workshops and vessels, among which the
artisans houses, but after the collection of monstrances
fire of 1541 they were replaced (for displaying the host) is
by a series of imposing The Loretos entrance, with statues particularly precious: one
palaces. These were built by of St Joseph and St John the Baptist dazzling monstrance is
Czech and foreign nobles, encrusted with no fewer
eager to live close to the court Loreto 0 than 6,222 diamonds.
of the Habsburgs. On the south Every hour an unusual
side, the huge 16th-century Loretnsk nmst 7, Hradany. concert is played by 27 bells
Schwarzenberg Palace Map 1 C3. Tel 220 516 740. v 22 in the Loretos Baroque tower.
(Schwarzenbersk palc) is to Pohoelec. # 9am12:15pm, 1
one of the most beautiful 4:30pm TueSun. & ^ 5 7:30am
Renaissance buildings in Sat, 10am, 6pm Sun. www.loreta.cz ernn Palace q
Prague, with graceful attics ERNNSK PALC
and magnificent sgraffito that The religious complex of
gives the impression that the Pragues Loreto, occupying Loretnsk nmst 5. Map 1 B3.
faade is clad in Italian-style virtually the entire west side Tel 224 181 111. v 22.
diamond-point stonework. of Loretnsk nmst, was # public hols only. www.mzv.cz
The broad, western end of built in 1629, shortly after the
the square is taken up by the victory of the Catholic forces Begun in 1669 for Count
Thun-Hohenstein Palace in the Battle of the ernn of
(Thun-Hohenteinsk palc), White Mountain. Its Chudenice, the
a more austere affair built in founder was Kateina Imperial Ambassa-
168991. Its roof is crowned of Lobkowicz, a dor to Venice, the
with statues by FMBrokoff. Czech aristocrat who ernn Palace was
On the north side of the was eager to promote Pragues first truly
square, between the castle the legend of the Santa Baroque building,
and Sternberg Palace, is the Casa the holy though later changes
Archbishops Palace (Arci- house in Nazareth Capital on ernn do not make this
biskupsk palc), a 16th-cen- in which Archangel Palace obvious. Its 150-m
tury building with a fancy Gabriel told Mary (490-ft) long faade,
Rococo faade in pink and about the future birth of with a row of vast Corinthian
white, added in the 1760s. Jesus, and which, in 1295, half-columns, towers over the
The Renaissance Martinic was miraculously transported small, grassy square that lies
Palace (Martinick palc), at to the Italian town of Loreto. between it and the Loreto.
the corner of Castle Square Replicas of the house were The huge building suffered
and Kanovnick Street, has erected all over Bohemia and as a result of its prominent
sgraffito depicting scenes Moravia, the grandest of position on one of Pragues
from the Bible and which lies at the heart of highest hills. It was looted by
mythology. the French in 1742 and badly
The squares high terrace damaged in the Prussian
affords a famous view bombardment of the city
that embraces in 1757. In 1851 the now-
virtually the impoverished ernn family
entire city. sold the palace to the state
and it became a barracks.
Following the creation of
Czechoslovakia in 1918, the
palace was restored to its
original design and became
the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs. Thirty years later, a
few days after the Communist
coup, the Foreign Minister Jan
Masaryk, the popular
Schwarzenberg Palace, with its sgraffito decoration, in Castle Square son of Czechoslovakias first
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 63

President, Tom Masaryk, who wrote many short

died as the result of a fall stories set in this part
from a top-floor window of of Prague. From 1845
the palace. He was the only to 1857 he lived in the
non-Communist in the new house called At the
government. No one really Two Suns (No. 47).
knows whether he was Bustling, noisy and
pushed or jumped, but he crowded during the
is still widely mourned. day, Nerudova Street
becomes deserted at
night the souvenir
Strahov shops and offices have
Monastery w gradually ousted the
ordinary residents.
STRAHOVSK KLTER
Until the introduction
of house numbers
Krlovsk Kanonie Premonstrt na in 1770, the citys
Strahov, Strahovsk ndvoi 1/132, dwellings were
Strahovsk. Map 1 B4. Tel 233 107 distinguished by signs.
711. v 22 to Pohoelec. # 9am Nerudova Streets
noon, 12:305pm daily. Theological Philosophical Hall, Strahov Monastery houses have a splendid
Hall, Philosophical Hall, Church of selection of these,
Our Lady, Picture Gallery # pulpits, particularly striking featuring symbols, emblems
9amnoon, 15pm daily. Easter are the impressive frescoes and heraldic beasts made of
Sun, 25 Dec. & = 0 www. covering the ceiling and the stone, stucco or metal,
strahovskyklaster.cz walls above the arcades. painted or carved; they
Inside the monastery itself, often indicate a profession
When it was founded by the two Baroque libraries are or particular interest of the
Vladislav II in 1140, to serve among the most beautiful former occupants.
an austere religious order, the in Europe. The first of these, Proceeding up Nerudovas
Premonstratensians, Strahov the Philosophical Hall steep slope, look out in parti-
rivalled Prague Castle in (Filosofick sl), was built cular for the Red Eagle (No. 6),
size. Burnt down in the expressly to house the books the Three Fiddles (No. 12), the
13th century, then rebuilt, (and splendid bookcases) Golden Horseshoe (No. 34),
Strahov acquired its present from Louca monastery, in the Green Lobster (No. 43)
magnificent, Baroque form in Moravia, dissolved by Joseph and the White Swan (No. 49),
the 18th century. In 1783, II. The breathtaking vault is as well as the Old Pharmacy
during the reign of Joseph II, decorated with a 1782 fresco museum at No. 32.
the monastery managed to depicting mankinds Quest for There are also a number
escape dissolution by cleverly Truth. The second, the of grand Baroque buildings,
declaring itself an educational Theological Hall most of which
establishment, citing its vast (Teologick have now be-
library. The monks were sl), dates come embassies.
finally driven out of Strahov from the 16th Among them
in 1950 by the Communists. century and are the Thun-
Now, following the Velvet is equally Hohenstein
Revolution, the monastery impressive with Palace (No. 20,
has resumed its original its beautiful now the Italian
function, and monks can frescoes filling Sign of Jan Nerudas embassy), whose
sometimes be seen going the stucco frames, house, 47 Nerudova Street entrance is
about their daily business. and superb framed by an
The abbey courtyard is furnishings, including a imposing portal featuring two
entered via a Baroque number of 17th-century spread-wing eagles, by
gateway sporting a statue of astronomical globes. Matthias Braun, and Morzin
St Norbert, the founder of the Palace (No. 5, the Romanian
Premonstratensian Order. The embassy). The latter has a
nearby 17th-century Church Nerudova Street e faade with two vast statues
of St Roch now houses one of Moors (a pun on the name
NERUDOVA ULICE
of Pragues finest art galleries. Morzin) sculpted by
The main monastery church Ferdinand Brokof and
is the vast Church of Our Map 2 D3. X Malostransk.
supporting the semicircular
Lady, whose faade features v 12, 20, 22. @ 292 to
balcony on the first floor.
expressive statues by Johan Malostransknamst.
Another impressive faade is
Anton Quitainer. The lovingly that of the Church of Our
restored Baroque interior A picturesque narrow street Lady of Unceasing Succour,
dazzles with its opulence. leading up to Prague Castle, the church of the Theatines,
Besides the magnificent altars Nerudova is named after the an order founded during the
and furnishings, including the poet and journalist Jan Neruda, Counter-Reformation.
64 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Church of St Nicholas r
KOSTEL SV . MIKULE

The Church of St Nicholas divides and dominates the

two sections of Malostransk nmst (Little Quarter
Square). Building began in 1703, and the last touches
were put to the glorious frescoed nave in 1761. It is
recognized as the masterpiece of father-and-son
architects Christoph and Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
Pragues greatest exponents of High Baroque, though
neither lived to see the churchs completion. The
statues, frescoes and paintings inside are by leading
Baroque artists, and include a fine Passion Cycle (1673)
by Karel krta. Renovation in the 1950s dealt with
the damage caused by 200 years of leaky cladding.

. Pulpit Altar Paintings

Dating from 1765, The side chapels hold many
the ornate pulpit is works of art. This painting of
by Richard and St Michael is by Francesco
Peter Prachner. Solimena.
It is lavishly
adorned with
golden cherubs.

Baroque Organ
A fresco of St Cecilia watches
over the superb organ, built
Entrance
in 1746 by Toms Schwarz. from west side
There were originally three of Little Quarter
Schwarz organs here. Square

Chapel of
St Anne Chapel of
St Catherine
STAR FEATURES
Faade
. Dome Fresco
St Paul, by John Frederick Kohl,
. Pulpit is one of the statues that grace the
curving faade. It was completed in
. Statues of the 1710 by Christoph Dientzenhofer,
Church Fathers who was influenced by Italian
architects Borromini and Guarini.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 65

The dome was The belfry,

VISITORS CHECKLIST
completed by Kilian added in 175156,
Ignaz Dientzenhofer was the last part to Malostransk nmst. Map 2 E3.
in 1751, shortly be built. Visitors X Malostransk. Tel 257 534
before his death. can climb up it to 215. v 12, 20, 22 to
admire the view. Malostransk nmst. # Mar
Oct: 9am5pm daily; NovFeb:
9am4pm daily. & 5 ^ 8
Concerts www.psalterium.cz

. Dome Fresco
Franz Palkos fresco, The Celebration
of the Holy Trinity (17523), fills
the 70-m (230-ft) high dome.

High Altar
. Statues of the Eastern A copper statue of St Nicholas
Church Fathers by Ignaz Platzer surmounts
The statues of the four great teach- the high altar. Below it, the
ers by Ignaz Platzer stand at the painting of St Joseph is by
base of the four columns supporting Johann Lukas Kracker, who
the dome. Pictured here is St Cyril. also painted the nave fresco.

THE DIENTZENHOFER FAMILY

Christoph Dientzenhofer (16551722) came
from a family of Bavarian master builders.
His son Kilian Ignaz (16891751) was
born in Prague and educated at the
Jesuit Clementinum (see pp823). They
were responsible for the greatest
treasures of Jesuit-influenced
Prague Baroque architecture. The
Church of St Nicholas, their last
work, was completed by Kilians
son-in-law, Anselmo Lurago. Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer
66 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

the Hussite period this was

one of the few churches
to remain Catholic, and, as
a result, it suffered serious
damage. Further misfortune
arrived in 1723, when the
church was struck by
lightning. Kilian Ignaz
Dientzenhofer was called
in to rebuild it. The shape
of the original church was
preserved, but, apart from
the spire, the church
today retains little of its
Gothic origins.
Frescoes adorn the dome
and the curving ceiling in
the nave, while above the
The main hall of Wallenstein Palace altar are copies of paintings
of St Thomas and St Augustine
Wallenstein Palace The restored gardens are by Rubens. The English-
laid out as they were when speaking community of
and Garden t Wallenstein dined in the huge Prague meets in this church.
VALDTEJNSK PALC garden pavilion that looks out
over a fountain and rows of
Valdtejnsk nmst 4. Map 2 E3. bronze statues.
X Malostransk. Tel 257 071
111. v 12, 18, 20, 22. Palace #
10am4:30pm Sat & Sun (subject to Church of
change). ^ 7 from Valdtejnsk.
Garden # AprOct: 7:30am6pm
St Thomas y
MonFri, 10am6pm Sat & Sun. 6 KOSTEL SV . TOM
7 from Valdtejnsk nmst. -
www.senat.cz Josefsk 8. Map 2 E3. Tel 257 532
556. X Malostransk. v 12, 20,
The first large secular 22. # for services. 5 12:15pm
building of the Baroque era MonSat, 9:30am, 11am (in English),
in Prague, the palace stands 12:30pm Sun. ^ 7
as a monument to the fatal The Baroque Church of St Nicholas
ambition of imperial military Founded by Wenceslas II in in Little Quarter Square
commander Albrecht von 1285 as the monastery church
Wallenstein (15831634). His of the Augustinians, the Little Quarter
string of victories over the original Gothic church was
Protestants in the Thirty Years completed in 1379. During Square u
War (see p39) made him vital MALOSTRANSK NMST
to Emperor Ferdinand II.
Already showered with titles, Map 2 E3. X Malostransk. v
Wallenstein soon started to 12, 20, 22.
covet the crown of Bohemia.
When he dared to negotiate This sloping square, busy
independently with the with trams and people
enemy, he was assassinated stopping for a drink or bite to
on the emperors orders. eat, has been the centre of
Wallenstein spent only 12 activity in Mal Strana since
months in the palace that he its foundation in 1257. It
had had built in 162030. began as a marketplace in the
Intended to overshadow even outer bailey of Prague Castle.
Prague Castle, the palace was Most of the houses here have
designed by Andrea Spezza a medieval core, but all were
who, like most of the artists rebuilt during the Renaissance
who helped decorate the and Baroque periods.
building, were Italians. The The square is dominated
superb main hall has a ceiling by the Church of St Nicholas
fresco of Wallenstein himself (see pp645), opposite which
portrayed as Mars, the god of is the vast Neo-Classical
war, riding in a triumphal faade of Lichtenstein Palace.
chariot. Today, the palace is Glass coffin with relics of St Justus, Other important buildings
the home of the Czech Senate. in St Thomass Church include Mal Stranas Town
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 67

Hall, with its fine Renaissance Carmelites by the Catholic

faade and Sternberg Palace, authorities after the Battle of
built on the site of the out- the White Mountain. They
break of the 1541 fire, which rebuilt the church and
destroyed most of the district. renamed it after the victory.
The building is of little
interest, but the church
Palace Gardens attracts many visitors who
come to see the Prask
below Prague Jezultko, better known by its
Castle i Italian name, il Bambino di
Praga a wax effigy of the
PALACOVE ZAHRADY POD
infant Jesus in a glass case in
PRASKM HRADEM
the south aisle. This figure has
a record of miracle cures and
Valdtejnsk nmst. Map 2 F2. is one of the most revered
X Malostransk. Tel 257 010 401. images in the Catholic world.
v 12, 18, 20, 22. # AprOct: It was presented to the
10am6pm daily (to 9pm Jun, Jul, to Detail from the Church of Our Lady Carmelites by one of the
8pm Aug, to 7pm May, Sep). 6 beneath the Chain Lobkowicz familys Spanish
brides in 1628. The figure has
When, in the 1500s, nobles In the 14th century, the a vast number of clothes, some
started building palaces on the original Romanesque church of which are in the museum.
slopes below Prague Castle, was demolished. What can be
they also laid out formal gar- seen today dates largely from
dens based on Italian Renais- a Baroque facelift performed Petn Hill a
sance models. Redone in the in 1640 by Karel krta.
PETNSK SADY
18th century, when Baroque The painting on the high
statuary and fountains were altar shows the Virgin Mary
added, some of the gardens and John the Baptist coming Map 2 D5. v 6, 9, 12, 20, 22, 23,
now form a public park. As to the aid of the Knights of then take funicular railway from jezd.
well as offering superb views Malta in the famous naval
of the city, the gardens are victory over the Turks at Petn Hill, to the west of
full of interest. The Kolowrat- Lepanto in 1571. Mal Strana, is the highest of
ernn Garden is undoubtedly Pragues nine hills, and an
the finest, with its highly deco- area of greenery much loved
rated pavilion and assortment Church of Our by local citizens.
of staircases, balustrades and A path winds up the slopes
loggias, as well as fountains, Lady Victorious p of Petn, offering fine views
pools and Classical statuary. KOSTEL PANNY MARIE VTZN of Prague, but it is also fun to
take the funicular from jezd.
Karmelitsk. Map 2 E4. Tel 257 533 Once at the top, there are
Church of Our 646. v 12, 20, 22. # 9:30am many paths to explore and
5:30pm MonSat, 16pm Sun. several attractions, including
Lady beneath the 5 9am, 6pm MonSat, 10am, noon a mini version of the Eiffel
Chain o (English), 5pm (French), 6pm (Italian), Tower (Rozhledna), built in
7pm Sun. 1891, which can be climbed,
KOSTEL PANNY MARIE POD
and a mini Gothic castle
ETZEM
Built in the early 17th century (Bludit), containing a hall
by German Lutherans, the of distorting mirrors which is
Lzesk. Map 2 E4. X Malos- church was given to the hugely popular with children.
transk. Tel 257 530 876. v 12, 20,
22. # for concerts & services.
5 5pm Wed, 9:30am Sun. ALBRECHT VON WALLENSTEIN
This church, the oldest in Albrecht von Wallenstein (Valdtein)
Mal Strana, was founded was born in Bohemia in 1583. He
in the 12th century. King studied in Italy and later converted
Vladislav II presented it to the to Catholicism and joined the army
Knights of St John, the order of Rudolph II. He rose to lead the
later known as the Knights Imperial armies in Europe, and dur-
of Malta. It stood in the ing the Thirty Years War he scored
centre of the Knights heavily numerous victories over the Protes-
fortified monastery guarding tants. In 1630 he negotiated secretly
the approach to the old with the Protestants and then joined
Judith Bridge. The churchs them. For this, he was killed in 1634
name refers to the chain used by mercenaries acting on the orders Wallenstein, politician
in the Middle Ages to close of the Emperor Ferdinand. and commander
the monastery gatehouse.
68 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Charles Bridge s
KARLV MOST

Pragues most familiar monument was built by Peter STAR FEATURES

Parler for Charles IV in 1357, and replaced the ruined
Judith Bridge; it was the only bridge across the Vltava . St John Nepomuk
until 1741. Due to wear and tear, many of the statues
that witness the constant parade . St Luitgard
of people across the bridge . Star Msto Bridge
are copies.
Tower
MAL STRANA

Mal Strana
Bridge Tower
St Adalbert, 1709
Judith Bridge Adalbert, Bishop of Prague,
Tower, 1158
founded St Lawrence Church on
Petin Hill in 991. The Czechs
know him as Vojtch (see p101).

St Vitus,
1714

St Wenceslas, 1858 Christ between St John de Matha,

Tower St Philip
St Cosmas and St Felix de Valois and
entrance Benizi, 1714
St Damian, 1709 the Blessed Ivan, 1714

STARE MSTO St Francis Xavier

The Jesuit
Thirty Years missionary is
War supported by
In the last hours of Moorish and
this war, Star Msto Oriental
was saved from the converts.
Swedish army. The The sculptor
truce was signed in Brokof is
the middle of the seated on the
bridge in 1648. saints left.
St Norbert, St Wenceslas
and St Sigismund, St Christopher,
1853 1857 St Anne, 1707

St Francis Borgia, 1710 St John the Baptist, 1857 St Cyril and St Joseph, 1854
St Methodius, 1938

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3445 and pp3723
 H R A D A N Y A N D M A L S T R A N A 69

. St Luitgard, 1710 VISITORS CHECKLIST

The most artistically remarkable statue on
the bridge, sculpted by Matthias Braun at Map 2 F4, 3 A4. v 12, 22, 23 to
the age of 26, shows the crucified Christ Malostransk nmst or 17, 18 to
Karlovy lzn. Star Msto
appearing to the blind Cistercian nun.
Bridge Tower # NovFeb:
10am8pm daily; MarOct:
10am10pm daily. & Mal
Strana Bridge Tower # Apr
Oct: 10am6pm daily.

. St John Nepomuk, 1683

Reliefs on the bridge depict
the martyrdom of St John
Nepomuk. Here the saint
has been polished bright
St Cajetan, 1709 from people touching his
image for good luck.
St Augustine,
1708
St Vincent St Jude St Anthony of
St Nicholas Ferrer and Thaddaeus, Padua, 1707
Tolentino, St Procopius, 1712 1708
1708 St Ludmilla,
1710

Steps to Kampa St Francis of Assisi, with

Island two angels, 1855

Crucifix
Star Msto
For 200 years this Bridge Tower
crucifix stood
alone on the
bridge. The gilded
Christ dates from 1629
and the Hebrew words
Tower
Holy, Holy, Holy Lord
entrance
were paid for by a Jew
as punishment for
blasphemy.
Madonna and
St Bernard,
1709
St Ivo 1711

Piet,
1859
. Star Msto Bridge Tower
This fine Gothic tower was an
The Madonna,
St Barbara, integral part of the old towns
St Margaret and
St Dominic and St Elizabeth,
fortifications. The sculptures, like
St Thomas, 1708 1707 the tower, are by Peter Parler.
 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 71

STAR MSTO AND JOSEFOV

I n the 11th century the

settlements built around
Prague Castle spilled over
onto the right bank of the
Vltava. Thus Star Msto, the
distinct Jewish communities,
Ashkenazi and Sephardi Jews.
These groups gradually
merged and became confined
to a ghetto. The discrimin-
Old Town, was created. With ation they suffered was
time, houses and churches partially relaxed in 1784, by
built around the market Joseph II, and the Jewish
square developed into an Quarter was named Josefov
irregular network of streets, in his honour. The ghetto area
many of them surviving to was razed in the 1890s, but
this day. In the Middle Ages Art Nouveau detail on the Town Hall and some
this area was home to two house in Kaprova synagogues were saved.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Churches and Synagogues Cemeteries
Church of Our Lady Old Jewish Cemetery
before Tn 3 pp8081 0 N T I K
U
F R A

HRADEBN
Church of St Giles u
N A
Church of St James 4 NMST
CURIEOVCH
PA

E
DU

Maisel Synagogue 9 B C H

U M I LO S R D N
RA

N VO
KO Z

O
S

Old-New Synagogue
V

OD
O

SK

REVOL
NH

pp789 7 AL
D
O

T
PA

OVA
BEC
DV

BLK HA
UO

Pinkas Synagogue q
TO

K
JOSEFOV S
LIS

Spanish Synagogue 6 ZE
Z

UN
V
UH
KO
17.

O
DL
MAISEL O

N
Historic Buildings AS
PA

NMST JANA
M
R Y B N

PALACHA

IR
Clementinum r OK K
S
V

RS
K
A

Jewish Town Hall 8

Staromstsk
VO
ICK

Municipal House o
D
VALENT

AT ECK
O VN

O
L

Old Town Hall pp745 1 STAROMSTSK

KR
INSK
K I

NMST
U RA

K C E L E T N Nmst
P L AT N S Republiky
Museums and Galleries
DNIC

MARINSK
NMST
Convent of St Agnes 5 MAL OVOCN
E

NMST TRH
LE
ZN

Museum of Decorative P

Arts w
KA
R LOV
A STAR IK
O

MSTO P
H
A

Smetana Museum y A
V

N

HUSOV

SK
E

ANENSK K
S
Historic Streets NMST


B

T
A

Celetn Street 2 Y
VO N

R
BETLMSK
Charles Street t NMST SKO
PE

EP
NA

KA
RL
O
PER

UHELN
V

TRH
SMETANO

Theatres and Concert Halls

T
N

Estates Theatre i Nrodn tda

Rudolfinum e

DN
RO
N

KEY
0 metres 250
Street-by-Street map
See pp723
0 yards 250
Metro station

Tram stop GETTING THERE

Mstek on metro lines A and B and Staromstsk on line A both
Church
serve the Old Town and Josefov. While trams do not cross the Old
Synagogue Town, it is only a short walk from the tram stop near Charles Bridge.
For Josefov, take tram 17 or 18 to nmst Jana Palacha. For the
Tourist information
Convent of St Agnes, bus 133 is convenient.

View over the rooftops of Star Msto

72 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Street by Street: Star Msto

Free of traffic and ringed with historic buildings,
Pragues Old Town Square (Staromstsk nmst)
ranks among the finest public spaces in any city.
Nearby streets, including Celetn, are also
pedestrianized. In summer, caf tables spill out
onto the cobbles, and although the area draws
visitors in droves, the unique atmosphere has
not yet been destroyed. Pragues colourful history
comes to life in the buildings around the square. Kinsk Palace (palc Kinskch),
by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
The Church of has a stucco faade crowned
St Nicholas has an with statues of the four
imposing faade which elements.
dominates one corner of
Old Town Square.

S T A R O M S T S K
N M S T
Old Town Square is depicted
in this late 19th-century water-
colour by Vclav Jansa, which
shows how little Staromstsk
nmst has changed in more
than 100 years. M A L
N M S T
Z
E
L
E

The Jan Hus

Z

Monument was
N

erected in 1915,
on the 500th
anniversary of the
religious reformers
burning at the
stake as a heretic.
To the Czechs, he
is a hero.

The House at the Two

Golden Bears has a carved
Renaissance portal which is
the finest of its kind in Prague.

U Rotta, now Hotel Rott, is a

former ironmongers shop, . Old Town Hall
decorated with colourful The town halls famous
paintings by the 19th-century
astronomical clock draws a
artist Mikol Ale.
crowd of visitors every hour 1
The torch House has painted
decoration based on designs
0 metres 100 KEY by Mikol Ale showing St
Wenceslas on horseback.
0 yards 100 Suggested route

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 73

Church of Our Lady before Tn

The churchs Gothic steeples are
the Old Towns most distinctive STARE MSTO
AND JOSEFOV
landmark 3

NOV MSTO

LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, maps 34

Church of St James
This wooden Piet, on the
Tn courtyard
main altar, was made in
the 15th century 4

. Municipal
House
This Art Nouveau
 ! +  ) ! T building is a
popular concert
+

venue o
 &
(


* + &  ( * ) ! T
$
Z 

E
q
A
L

Powder
  "  *
$ T Gate, a
much-restored
Gothic gate, is a
relic of when there
was a royal palace
located here, at the
House of entrance to the
 the Black Old Town.
( Madonna
*
q

$

%
,
%

Estates Theatre
The theatre featured
in director Milo Formans Celetn Street
Ovocn trh, This ornamental Baroque
film Amadeus i
once Pragues fruit plaque is the sign of the
market, is now a
pedestrian street.
House at the Black Sun,
on famous Celetn Street 2
The Carolinum
formed the heart of the STAR SIGHTS
university founded by
Charles IV in 1348. A . Municipal House
beautifully carved Oriel
window projects from . Old Town Hall
the oldest surviving part.
74 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Old Town Hall 1

STAROMSTSK RADNICE

One of the most striking buildings in Prague, the

Old Town Hall was established in 1338 by King John
of Luxemburg. Over the centuries several nearby
houses were knocked together as the Town Hall
expanded, and it now consists of a row of colourful
Gothic and Renaissance buildings; most of these have
been restored after damage inflicted by the Nazis in
1945. The 69-m (228-ft) tower offers a great view.
Old Council Hall
This 19th-century engraving
features the well-preserved
15th-century ceiling.

Old Town Coat of Arms

Above the inscription,
Prague, Head of the
Kingdom, is the coat of
arms of the Old Town, which
was adopted in 1784 for the
whole city.

Tourist
information and
entrance to Tower

Temporary art
exhibitions

EXECUTIONS IN THE OLD TOWN SQUARE

A bronze tablet below the Old Town Hall
chapel records the names of the 27 Protestant
leaders executed here by order of Emperor
Ferdinand II on 21 June 1621. This was the
result of the humiliating defeat at the Battle of
the White Mountain, which also led to the
emigration of Protestants unwilling to give up
their faith, a Counter-Reformation drive by the
Catholic Church and a campaign of
Germanization.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 75

. Old Town Hall Tower VISITORS CHECKLIST

Viewing In 1364 the tower was added to
gallery the private house of Wolflin of Staromstsk nmst 1.
Kmen. Its gallery provides a Map 3 C3. Tel 724 508 584.
X Staromstsk, Mstek.
fine city view.
v 17, 18. # AprOct: 9am
6pm daily (from 11am Mon);
NovMar: 9am5pm daily. &
78

Oriel Chapel
The original stained-glass
windows on the five-sided
chapel were destroyed in the
last days of World War II, but
were replaced in 1987.

The house Oriel Chapel Ceiling

of Wolflin The chapel, built on the first
of Kmen
floor of the tower in 1381, has
was pur-
chased by an ornate ceiling, which has
the author- been restored.
ities in 1338. Steps to
gallery

. Astronomical Clock
Mechanical figures perform above the
zodiac signs in the upper section; the
lower section is a calendar.

Calendar

Entrance hall
decorated
with mosaics Gothic Door
This late Gothic main
entrance to the Town Hall
and Tower was carved by
STAR FEATURES Matthias Rejsek. The
. Astronomical Clock entrance hall is filled with
wall mosaics after designs
. Old Town Hall Tower by the Czech painter
Mikol Ale.
76 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Celetn Street 2 renovation inside, which jars

CELETN ULICE with the Gothic style of the
original church.
On the northern side is a
Map 3 C3. X Nmst Republiky,
beautiful entrance portal (1390)
Mstek. House of the Black
decorated with scenes of
Madonna Tel 224 301 003.
Christs passion. The dark
# 10am6pm TueFri. & 7 -
interior has notable features,
including Gothic sculptures
One of the oldest streets of Calvary, a pewter font
in Prague, Celetn follows (1414) and a 15th-century
an old trading route from Gothic pulpit. The Danish
eastern Bohemia. Its name astronomer Tycho Brahe
comes from the plaited bread (15461601) is buried here.
rolls that were first baked
here in the Middle Ages. It
gained prestige in the 14th Church of St
century as a section of the
so-called Royal Route, which The towering nave of the Church
James 4
linked the Royal Court (on of Our Lady before Tn KOSTEL SV . JAKUBA
the site of the Municipal
House) and Prague Castle via Church of Our Mal tupartsk. Map 3 C3.
Old Town Square; it was used Tel 224 828 816. X Mstek,
during coronation processions. Lady before Tn 3
Nmst Republiky. # 9:30am
Most of the houses along KOSTEL MATKY BO PED noon, 24pm daily. 5 8:30am,
Celetn Street date from the TNEM 10:30am Sun. 6
Middle Ages. The foundations
of Romanesque and Staromstsk nmst 604. This attractive Baroque
Gothic buildings can Map 3 C3. Tel 602 204 213. church was originally the
be seen in some of X Staromstsk, Mstek. Gothic presbytery of a
the cellars, but most of # 10am1pm, 35pm Minorite monastery. The
the houses with their TueSun. 5 6pm TueThu, order (a branch of the
picturesque signs are 8am Sat, 9:30am & 9pm Sun. Franciscans) was invited to
the result of Baroque &^ Prague by King Wenceslas I
remodellings. in 1232. The Baroque
At No. 34, the House Dominating the Old reconstruction occurred after
of the Black Madonna Town Square are a fire in 1689, allegedly
(Dm U ern Matky the magnificent started by agents of Louis
Bo) is an multiple steeples of XIV. More than 20 side altars
exception, being a this historic church. were added, decorated with
splendid example of The present Gothic works by painters such as Jan
Cubist architecture House of the Black building was started Ji Heinsch and Petr Brandl.
designed by Josef Madonna in 1365 and soon The tomb of Count Vratislav
Gor dating from became associated of Mitrovice (171416),
1912. (Note that the with the reform movement in designed by Johann Bernhard
distinctive polychrome figure Bohemia. From the early 15th Fischer von Erlach and with
of the Madonna with Child century until 1620 Tn was sculptures by Brokof, is the
comes from an earlier house the main Hussite church in most beautiful Baroque tomb
that stood on this site.) The Prague. It was taken over by in Bohemia. The count is said
building is home to a small the Jesuits in the 17th century, to have been accidentally
but interesting collection of and it was they who were buried alive: his corpse was
Czech Cubism, including responsible for the Baroque later found sitting up in the
paintings, sculpture, furniture
and architectural plans.
The 1759 Pachts Palace,
across the street, has a balcony
that rests on the shoulders of
four miners and soldiers
sculpted by Ignaz Platzer.
The most impressive example
of Baroque architecture is
Hrznsk Palace (No. 558),
whose faade features busts,
gargoyles and stuccoes, as
well as a portal with caryatids.
Used for state dinners, the
palace has been visited by
numerous heads of state. Baroque organ loft in the Church of St James

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 77

tomb. There is an equally Gallery in Prague. Spain, hence the

macabre tale surrounding a Among its most name. Once
400-year old mummified precious exhib- closed to
forearm to be found hanging its are works by the public,
on the right of the entrance. two outstanding the Spanish
The story goes that when a Czech artists of Synagogue is now
thief tried to steal the jewels the 14th century: home to a per-
from the Madonna on the the so-called Master manent exhibition
high altar, the Virgin grabbed of the Vy Brod dedicated to the
his arm and held on so tightly Altar, who adorned Ten Commandments history of the Jews
that it had to be cut off. a monastic altar- motif on the Spanish of Bohemia.
The acoustics in the nave piece with exquisite Synagogue faade
are excellent and concerts are scenes from the
often held here. The splendid life of Christ, and Old-New
organ dates from 1702. Master Theodoric.
The latters splendid series Synagogue 7
of panels for the chapel of
See pp789.
Karltejn Castle are the
unmissable works in the
gallery. Other works worth Jewish Town Hall 8
seeing include the moving
Crucifixion from Pragues Na IDOVSK RADNICE
Slovanech Monastery, 14th-
century panels by the Maiselova 18. Map 3 B3. Tel 222
Master of Tebo, and an 319 002. X Staromstsk. v 17,
anonymous sculpture of the 18. @ 133. to the public.
Madonna and Child, much
influenced by the famous The core of this attractive
Krumlov Madonna. blue and white building is
The early 16th century is the original Jewish Town
represented by works by the Hall, built in 157077 by the
Master of Litomice; these hugely rich mayor, Mordechai
include the Holy Trinity Maisel. In 1763 it acquired its
triptych and the Visitation flowery Late Baroque image;
of the Virgin Mary. further alterations were made
in the early 20th century.
On the roof stands a small
Spanish wooden clock tower with a
Panel (c.1370) showing a kneeling distinctive green steeple.
Charles IV, in St Agness Convent
Synagogue 6 On one of the gables there
PANLSK SYNAGGA is another clock. This one
Convent of has Hebrew figures and,
Vzesk 1. Map 3 B2. because Hebrew reads from
St Agnes 5 X Staromstsk. v 17, 18. right to left, hands that turn
KLTER SV . ANEKY ESK @ 133 to Nemocnice na Frantiku. in an anti-clockwise direction.
# AprOct: 9am6pm SunFri; Nov
U Milosrdnch 17. Map 3 C2. Tel 224 Mar: 9am4.30pm SunFri. 7
810 628. X Nmst Republiky, www.jewishmuseum.cz
Staromstsk. v 17 to Law Faculty
(Prvnick fakulta), 5, 8, 14 to Dlouh Pragues first synagogue,
tda. @ 133 to Nemocnice na known as the Old School
Frantiku. # 10am 6pm TueSun. (Star kola), once stood on
& ^ 8 7 www.ngprague.cz this site. In the 11th century
the Old School was the
The convent of the Poor centre of the Sephardic
Clares was founded by Jewish community, who
Princess Agnes, sister of King lived strictly apart from the
Wenceslas I, in 1234, and Ashkenazi Jews, who were
was one of the first Gothic concentrated around the
buildings in Bohemia. It Old-New Synagogue.
functioned as a convent until The present Moorish build-
1782, when the Order was ing dates from the second half
dissolved by Joseph II. of the 19th century. The
Following painstaking ornate exterior gives way to
restoration, the premises an even more fantastically
now house a magnificent decorative and gilded interior.
collection of medieval art The rich stucco decorations are Faade and clock tower of the
belonging to the National reminiscent of the Alhambra in Jewish Town Hall
78 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Old-New Synagogue 7
STARONOV SYNAGGA
Right-hand
Built around 1270, this is the oldest Nave
synagogue in Europe and one of the The glow from
earliest Gothic buildings in Prague. The the chandeliers
synagogue has survived fires, the slum provides light
clearances of the 19th century and many for worshippers
Jewish pogroms. Residents of the Jewish who sit in the
Quarter have often had to seek refuge seats lining the
within its walls and today it is still the walls.
religious centre for Pragues Jews. It was
originally called the New Synagogue
until another synagogue (later destroyed)
was built nearby.
Stepped brick
gable (14th
century)

. Jewish Standard
The historic banner of Pragues
Jews is decorated with a star of
David and, within it, the hat
that had to be worn by
Jews in the 14th
century.

These windows
formed part of the
18th-century
extensions built to
allow women a
view of the service.

Candlestick holder

The cantors
platform (or
bima) is surrounded
by a wrought-iron
Gothic grille.

Entrance
in erven
Street
. Five-Rib Vaulting Entrance Portal
Two massive octagonal The tympanum above
pillars inside the hall the door in the south
support the five-rib vestibule is decorated
vaults: one rib was added with bunches of grapes
to the traditional four ribs. and vine leaves.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 79

VISITORS CHECKLIST Maisel Synagogue 9

Paisk & erven 2. Map 3 B2. MAISELOVA SYNAGGA
Tel 222 317 191. X Staro-
mstsk. v 17, 18 to Staro- Maiselova 10. Map 3 B3.
mstsk, 17 to Pravnick fakulta X Staromstsk. @ 133.
(Law Faculty). # 9:30am6pm # AprOct: 9am6pm SunFri;
SunThu (to 5pm NovMar). NovMar: 9am4.30pm SunFri.
Jewish hols. & ^ u 8am Mon Jewish hols. & ^ 7
Fri, 9am Sat. www.synagogue.cz www.jewishmuseum.cz

When it was first built, in the

late 16th century, this was a
private house of prayer for
East Faade use by mayor Mordechai
The east and the west Maisel and his family. It was
faades possess an also the most richly decorated
austerity that is in synagogue in the city. Maisel,
strong contrast who made a fortune lending
with the Gothic money to Rudolph II, funded
interior. the extensive Renaissance
reconstruction of the ghetto.
The original building was a
victim of the fire that also
The devastated the Jewish Town
tympanum in 1689, and a new synagogue
above the was built in its place. Its
Ark is present Gothic aspect dates
decorated from the early 20th century.
with 13th- The synagogue now houses
century leaf a superb collection of Jewish
carvings. silver and other metalwork
dating from Renaissance times.
. Rabbi Lws Chair It includes early examples of
A star of David marks items used in the Jewish
the chair of the Chief service, such as Torah crowns
Rabbi, placed where and finials, used to decorate
Rabbi Lw once sat. A the rollers which hold the text
of the Torah (the five books
16th-century scholar, of Moses), shields (hung on
he was Pragues most the mantle draped over the
revered Jewish sage Torah) and pointers (used by
(see p80). readers to follow the text).
By a tragic irony, most of
these treasures were brought
to Prague by the Nazis from
synagogues all over Bohemia
and Moravia.

The interior is
dim since the
small windows
do not allow
much light in.

STAR FEATURES
. Five-Rib Vaulting The Ark
This is the holiest place in the
. Jewish Standard synagogue as it holds
the sacred scrolls of the Torah
. Rabbi Lws (the first five books of the
Chair Bible) and of the books of 18th-century silver Torah crown in
the Prophets. the Maisel Synagogue
80 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Old Jewish Cemetery 0

STAR IDOVSK HBITOV

This remarkable site was, for over 300 years, the

only burial ground permitted to Jews. Founded
in 1478, it was slightly enlarged over the years
but still basically corresponds to its
medieval size. Due to the lack of
space people had to be buried on top
of each other, up to 12 layers deep.
Today, you can see over 12,000
gravestones crammed into the
tiny area, but an estimated View across the cemetery towards the
100,000 people are thought western wall of the Klausen Synagogue
to have been buried here.
The last burial was in 1787. Jewish printers, Mordechai
Zemach (d. 1592) and his son
The Pinkas Bezalel (d. 1589), are buried
Synagogue is the under this square gravestone.
second-oldest in
Prague (see p82).
David Gans Tombstone
The tomb of the writer and
astronomer (15411613)
is adorned with the symbols
of his name a star of
David and a goose (Gans
in German).

Rabbi Kara Tomb

(1439), the oldest
in the cemetery

Rabbi David
Oppenheim
(16641736)
The chief rabbi of
Prague owned the
largest collection of
Hebrew manuscripts Klausen
and prints in the city. The gravestone Synagogue
of Moses Beck

The Nephele Mound

Main
RABBI LW AND THE GOLEM was where infants who entrance
died under a year old
The 16th-century were buried.
scholar and philosopher
Rabbi Lw was thought . 14th-
to possess magical century
powers. It is claimed Tombstones
that he created a Embedded in
figure, the Golem, from the wall are
clay and then brought fragments of
it to life. When his
creature went berserk, Gothic tomb-
the rabbi is said to stones brought
have hidden it in the here from an
Old-New Synagogue older Jewish
(see pp789). cemetery in
Star Msto.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 81

VISITORS CHECKLIST
irok 3. Map 3 B3. Tel 222
317 191 (bookings). X Staro-
mstsk. v 17, 18. @ 133.
# AprOct: 9am6pm SunFri,
NovMar: 9am4:30pm SunFri
(last adm 30 mins before closing).
& 7 www.jewishmuseum.cz

Prague Burial Society

Founded in 1564, the group carried out ritual burials
and performed charitable work. In this 18th-century
painting, members of the society wash their hands after
leaving the cemetery.
The Museum of
Decorative Arts . Tombstone of Rabbi Lw
(see p82) The most visited tomb in the
cemetery is that of Rabbi Lw
(15201609). Visitors place a
pebble on the grave as a
mark of respect.

The Neo-
Romanesque
Ceremonial Hall

Mordechai Maisel
(15281601) was Mayor of
Pragues Jewish Town and a
philanthropist (see p79). Tombstone of
Hendela Bassevi
UNDERSTANDING THE GRAVESTONES The highly decorated
tomb (1628) was built in
From the late 16th century onwards, tombstones in the
Jewish cemetery were decorated with symbols denoting the honour of the beautiful wife of
background, family name or profession of the deceased. Pragues first Jewish nobleman.

STAR FEATURES
. 14th-century
Tombstones
Blessing A pair of A stag: Grapes:
hands: scissors: Hirsch or blessing or . Tombstone of
Cohen family tailor Zvi family abundance Rabbi Lw
82 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

a fraction of it is ever on
display. Pride of place goes to
the Bohemian glass, of which
there are many fine Baroque
and 19th- and 20th-century
pieces. Other exhibits include
Meissen porcelain, Gobelin
tapestries, costume, textiles,
photographs and furniture.

Rudolfinum e
Alovo nbei 12. Map 3 A3.
X Staromstsk. v 17, 18.
@ 133. Philharmonic
Tel 227 059 227. ^ 7 -
www.czechphilharmonic.cz

Now the home of the Czech

Philharmonic Orchestra, the
Rudolfinum is one of the
most impressive landmarks
on the Old Town bank of the
Vltava. Many of the major
concerts of the Prague Spring
music festival are held here.
The most impressive of the
Stage of the Dvok Hall in the Rudolfinum various concert halls is the
sumptuous Dvok Hall, one
Pinkas Synagogue q Museum of of the finest creations of 19th-
century Czech architecture.
PINKASOVA SYNAGGA Decorative Arts w The Rudolfinum itself is a
UMLECKOPRMYSLOV MUZEUM superb example of Czech
irok 3. Map 3 B3. Neo-Renaissance style. The
X Staromstsk. v 17, 18. 17. listopadu 2. Map 3 B3. Tel 251 curving balustrade is adorned
@ 133. # AprOct: 9am6pm 093 111. X Staromstsk. v 17, with statues of distinguished
SunFri; NovMar: 9am4:30pm. & 18. @ 133. # 10am6pm Czech, Austrian and German
^ 7 www.jewishmuseum.cz WedSun (to 7pm Tue). & ^ 7 composers and artists.
- www.upm.cz Between 1918 and 1939 the
The synagogue was founded Rudolfinum was the seat of
in 1479 by Rabbi Pinkas The museums collection of the Czechoslovak parliament.
and enlarged in 1535 by glass is one of the largest
his great-nephew Aaron in the world, but space
Meshulam Horowitz. It has constraints mean that only Clementinum r
been rebuilt many times
KLEMENTINUM
since. Excavations have
turned up fascinating relics of
life in the medieval ghetto, Kiovnick 190, Karlova 1, Marinsk
including a mikva, or ritual nmst 5. Map 3 A4. Tel 222 220
bath. The core of the present 879. X Staromstsk. v 17, 18.
building is a hall with Gothic Baroque Library, Astronomical
vaulting. The gallery for Tower and Chapel of Mirrors
women was added in the # JanMar: 10am5pm; Apr &
early 17th century. Sep: 10am6pm; May: 10am7pm;
The synagogue now serves JunAug: 10am8pm; OctDec:
as a memorial to all the Jew- 10am4pm. ^ 7 8 &
ish Czechoslovak citizens who www.klementinum.com
were imprisoned in Terezn
concentration camp (see In 1556 emperor Ferdinand I
pp19091) and later deported invited the Jesuits to Prague to
to various Nazi extermination undo the work of the Hussites
camps. The names of the and help bring the Czechs
77,297 who did not return are back into the Catholic fold.
inscribed on the synagogue They took over the former
walls. There is also a display Dominican monastery and,
of haunting childrens Stained-glass window from inside over two centuries, made it
drawings from Terezn camp. the Museum of Decorative Arts the largest complex of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 83

buildings in the city after At No. 3, At the Golden Well Smetana was an ardent patriot
Prague Castle. They built the has a magnificent Baroque and his music helped inspire
Church of St Saviour (1593 faade and stucco reliefs of the Czech national revival.
1714), adorned with large saints including St Roch and Deaf towards the end of his
statues of the Apostles by St Sebastian, who are believed life, he never heard his cycle
Jan Bendl (1659). to offer protection against of symphonic poems M
The most brutal expansion plagues. Vlast (My Country), being
involved the demolition of 30 performed. The opera, The
houses after the Jesuits were Bartered Bride, brought him
given control of the universi- the greatest renown abroad.
ty. The sumptuous Baroque
library (Barokn sl), with a
splendid trompe loeil ceiling, Church of St Giles u
dates from 1727. The lovely
KOSTEL SV. JILJ
Chapel of Mirrors (Zrcadlov
kaple), and the Astronomical
Tower (Astronomick v), Husova 8. Map 3 B4. Tel 224 220
offering great views, are also 235. X Nrodn tda. v 6, 9, 17,
18th-century. In 1773, when 18, 22. # 46pm Tue & Thu. 5
the pope dissolved their 7am & 6:30pm MonFri, 6:30pm Sat,
Order, the Jesuits left Prague. A 19th-century sign on the House at
8:15am, 9:30am, noon, 6:30pm Sun.
The Clementinum eventually the Golden Snake, Charles Street
6 www.kostel-praha.cz
became the National Library.
Despite a beautiful Gothic
Smetana Museum y portal on the south side, the
inside of this church is
MUZEUM BEDICHA SMETANY
essentially Baroque. Founded
in 1371, it became a Hussite
Novotnho lvka 1. Map 3 A4. church in 1420. Following the
Tel 222 220 082. X Staromstsk. Protestant defeat in 1620,
v 17, 18. # 10am5pm Wed Ferdinand II gave the church
Mon. & 6 fee. www.nm.cz to the Dominicans, who built
On a spit of land beside on a huge friary. The monks
the Vltava, a former Neo- were booted out under the
Renaissance waterworks has Communists, but they have
been turned into a memorial since been able to return.
to Bedich Smetana (182484), The vaults of the church are
the father of Czech music. The decorated with frescoes by
one-room museum contains the painter Vclav Vavinec
documents, letters, scores and Reiner, who is buried in the
musical instruments from the nave. The main fresco, a glo-
Former Jesuit Church of St Saviour composers life and work. rification of the Dominicans,
in the Clementinum Visitors can listen to extracts shows St Dominic and his
from some of Smetanas key friars helping the pope
works by waving an electronic defend the Catholic Church
Charles Street t baton at music stands. from non-believers.
KARLOVA ULICE

Map 3 A4. X Staromstsk.

Dating back to the 12th

century, this narrow, winding
street was part of the Royal
Route, along which
coronation processions
passed on the way to Prague
Castle. Many original Gothic
and Renaissance houses
remain, most converted into
shops to attract tourists.
A caf in the House at the
Golden Snake (No. 18) was
established in 1714 by an
Armenian, Deodatus
Damajan, who handed out
slanderous pamphlets from
here. It is now a restaurant. Sgraffitoed faade of the Smetana Museum
84 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Municipal House o
OBECN DM
Pragues most prominent Art Nouveau building was
built in 190511 on the site of a former royal palace. It
includes Pragues top concert venue, as well as other
smaller halls, a restaurant and caf. The flamboyant and
exciting interior, decorated with works by leading Czech
artists, including Alfons Mucha, is well worth savouring.
The guided tour is excellent and also good value.

. Mosaic by
The Estates Theatre, once the most
important theatre in Prague
Karel pillar
The faade
Estates Theatre i includes a vast
STAVOVSK DIVADLO
semicircular
mosaic
Ovocn trh 1. Map 3 C4.
depicting
X Mstek. # for guided tours Homage to
call 224 902 231. 7 Prague, by
www.narodni-divadlo.cz Karel pillar.
Built in 1783 by the German-
speaking Count Nostitz
Rieneck, the theatre is one
of the finest examples of
Classical elegance in Prague.
Its white, gold and blue
auditorium resembles a
luxury chocolate box. While
performances were given in
Czech or Italian occasionally,
until 1920 the main language
used on stage was German.
The theatre is renowned
for its premieres of operas
by Mozart. On 29 October Glass Dome
1787 the public was treated The imposing glass
to the world premiere of dome, a local
Don Giovanni, with Mozart landmark, towers
himself conducting from the above Hollars Hall, a
piano. Acknowledging the circular room next to
connection between Mozart
and the theatre, the interior the exhibition rooms.
was used by Milo Forman in
his famous Oscar-winning
film Amadeus (1984).
In 1834 Fidlovaka, a comic
opera by Josef Kajetn Tyl,
was performed here for the
first time. One of its songs,
Kde domov mj? (Where is
My Home?), later became the
Czech national anthem. More
than a century later, in the
spirit of the national revival,
the theatre was renamed after
Tyl, though it has since
reverted to its original name.
The Carolinum, opposite, is
the core of Prague University
founded by Charles IV. In the . Mayors Salon
15th and 16th centuries, the This splendid room has Main Hall
university led the movement furniture by J Krejuk Lifts in the main hall have
to reform the church. It was and murals depicting beautiful Art Nouveau
later taken over by the Jesuits. Czech heroes by Mucha. details and ornaments.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3456 and pp3735
 S T A R M S T O A N D J O S E F O V 85

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nmst Republiky 5. Map 4 D3.
Tel 222 002 101. X Nmst
Republiky. v 5, 8, 14. Gallery
# only during exhibitions: 10am
6pm daily. 8 by arrangement.
7 - 0 www.obecnidum.cz

. Smetana Hall
The auditorium seating 1,500 is occasionally used as a
ballroom. The box to the left of the stage is reserved for the
President of the Republic, the one to the right for the Mayor.

Decorative Side Portal

Detail Here, the carved
This delightful decoration is in
detail by Alfons perfect harmony
Mucha is found with the
in the Mayors architecture.
Salon.

Magnificent
glass dome

Figures
seen on all
sides of the
building are
by Czech
artists who
combined
Classical
and historic
symbols with
modern motifs.

The wing facing U

Shops Obecniho Domu Street
includes four dining rooms
with original panelling,
mirrors and clocks.

STAR FEATURES
. Mayors Salon
. Mosaic by Karel
pillar Decorative Elements
Lavish stucco decoration covers all sides of the
. Smetana Hall Municipal House; seen here are floral motifs,
typical of the Art Nouveau style (see p97).
 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 87

NOV MSTO

T he new town, or Nov

Msto, founded in 1348 by
Charles IV, was planned
around three central market
squares: the Horse Market
section of the New Town was
demolished and completely
redeveloped, giving it the
appearance it has today.
There are many historic sites
(Wenceslas Square), the Cattle and attractions in Nov Msto.
Market (Charles Square) and Wenceslas Square, a wide boul-
Art Nouveau
the Hay Market (Senovn decoration in evard housing restaurants,
Square). Twice as large as the Wenceslas Square hotels and shops, is surrounded
Old Town, the district was by fine buildings and is busy day
inhabited mainly by merchants and and night. For some peace and quiet,
craftsmen. In the late 1800s a large head for the park in Charles Square.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Churches Franciscan Garden 3 Mucha Museum 6
Church of Our Lady of the Main Station 7 National Museum 4
Snows 2 New Town Hall u
Church of St Cyril and U Flek y GETTING THERE
St Methodius i Wenceslas Square 1 The area is well served by the
Church of St Stephen 8 metro, with two main stations,
Museums and Mstek and Muzeum, in
Church of St Ursula t
SENOV

Galleries Wenceslas Square, and others

Emauzy Slavonic Monastery 0
Dvok Museum 9 P
at Karlovo nmst and
N

Theatres K
O Nrodn tda. Tram routes

N

from most parts of the

E

National Theatre pp945 r
K

P

Z

city pass through

A

A
State Opera 5
N
PA

N
K
N

Charles Square.
A
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Historic Squares, Buildings

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and Gardens N
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NBE

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TS
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BOTANICK Metro station
TROJICK ZAHRADA I N
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NA

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0 yards 250

Art Nouveau sculptures on the Hlalol Choir Building (1905) on Masarykovo nbe
88 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Around Wenceslas Square

Hotels and restaurants occupy many of the buildings Koruna Palace
around Wenceslas Square, though it remains an (1914) is an ornate
important commercial centre. As you walk along look block of shops and
up at the buildings, most of which date from the offices. Its corner
turret is topped with
beginning of the 20th century, when the a crown (koruna).
square was redeveloped. There
are some fine examples of the
Czech decorative styles used
during that period. Many
blocks have dark, covered P
O
arcades leading to shops, K

theatres and cinemas. P
A
N
U Pinkas, housed in
a building with
Gothic, Renaissance Mstek
Statue of
St Lawrence and Baroque
at U Pinkas features, started
serving Pilsner
Urquell in 1843.

Church of Our
Lady of the Snows
The towering Gothic
Mstek
building is only part of
a vast church planned Mstek
during the 14th century 2

A
V
O
K
IC
D
O
V

Lucerna

Palace
S K
N

Franciscan
Garden
P

Jungmann Square is named after Josef A small park, which

T

Jungmann (17731847), an influential linguist features this striking

and lexicographer, and there is a statue of fountain, is laid
him in the middle. The Adria Palace (1925)
used to be the Laterna Magika Theatre
out in an old
(see p94), which was where Vclav Havels monastery
Civic Forum worked in the early days of garden 3
the 1989 Velvet Revolution.

Wiehl House was completed in 1896.

The five-storey building is in striking Neo-
Renaissance style, with a loggia and colourful
sgraffito. Mikol Ale designed some of the
Art Nouveau figures.

STAR SIGHTS
. National Museum
. State Opera
. Wenceslas Square

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
 N O V E M S T O 89

. Wenceslas Square STAR MSTO

The dominant features of AND JOSEFOV

the square are the bronze

equestrian statue of

Vltava
St Wenceslas (1912) and
the National Museum NOV MSTO

behind it. St Wenceslas, a

Pemyslid prince who was
murdered by his brother
Boleslav, is the patron LOCATOR MAP
saint of Bohemia 1 See Street Finder, maps 3, 4 & 6

The Monument to the

Victims of Communism is
The Assicurazioni on the spot where Jan
Generali Building was Palach killed himself in
where Franz Kafka worked protest against the regime.
as an insurance clerk for Since the Velvet Revolution
ten months in 19067. an unofficial shrine has
been maintained here.

Hotel Evropas faade

K and the interior of the
S
I hotel (1906) have

D retained most
IN of their original Art
J
Nouveau features.

Caf
Tramvaj 11
V

. State Opera
C
L

Meticulously refurbished in the 1980s,

A
V

the interior still has the luxurious

S
K

A red plush, crystal chandeliers

E

V
and gilded stucco of the
N

O
L

A original late-19th-century
M

E theatre 5
S

L
P
T

H
C

K A
V
E O
M N
S O
E S
V IL
S K

W
Muzeum
K O V

Muzeum
K R A

St Wenceslas
Monument
Fnix Muzeum
Palace

. National Museum 0 metres 100

The grand building with its

0 yards 100
monumental staircase was
completed in 1890 as a KEY
symbol of national prestige 4 Suggested route
90 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

from the monument, there are dream telling him to build a

several buildings of interest. church on the spot where
To the left, down a passage, snow fell in August. Charless
is Lucerna Palace, built in the church was to have been over
early 20th century by Vclav 100 m (330 ft) long, but was
Havel, father of the former never completed. The tower-
Czech president. It is now a ing building we see today
shopping and entertainment was just the presbytery of the
complex. The cinema is projected church.
worth a visit to see its Art In 1603 the Franciscans
Nouveau furnishings. restored the building, and the
On the opposite side of the intricate net vaulting of the
square, at No. 29, stands the ceiling dates from this period.
lavishly decorated Art Nou- Most of the interior decoration
veau Grand Hotel is Baroque. Note the splendid
Evropa, built in three-tiered altar, crowded
19036. This is a won- with statues of saints.
derfully preserved
reminder of the gold-
en age of hotels. Its Franciscan
magnificent faade is
crowned with gilded Garden 3
nymphs, while inside FRANTIKNSK ZAHRADA
the original bars, the
mirrors, panelling and Passages of Jungmannovo nmst,
light fittings have sur- Vodikova & Vclavsk nmst. Map
Wenceslas Monument in Wenceslas Square vived virtually intact. 3 C5. X Mstek. # AprSep:
7am10pm daily; SepOct: 7am8pm
Wenceslas Square 1 daily; Nov Mar: 8am7pm daily. 7
VCLAVSK NMST Church of Our Lady
The physic garden of a Fran-
of the Snows 2 ciscan monastery, the area was
Map 3 C5. X Mstek, Muzeum. KOSTEL PANNY MARIE SNN opened to the public in 1950
v 3, 9, 14, 24. as an oasis close to Wenceslas
Jungmannovo nmst 18. Map 3 C5. Square. By the entrance is a
The square has witnessed Tel 224 490 350. X Mstek. Gothic portal leading to the U
many key events in recent # 25:30pm Mon, 25pm Tue, frantikn cellar restaurant. In
Czech history. It was here that 9:30am5:30pm Wed, 23:30pm the 1980s some beds were
the student Jan Palach burnt Thu, 911:30am Fri. 5 7am, 8am, replanted with herbs of the
himself to death in 1969, and 6pm MonFri; 8am, 6pm Sat; 9am, kinds cultivated by the Fran-
in November 1989 a protest 10:15am, 11:30am, 6pm Sun. 6 7 ciscans in the 17th century.
rally in the square against
police brutality led to the
Velvet Revolution and the Charles IV founded this National Museum 4
overthrow of Communism. church in 1347 to mark his
NRODN MUZEUM
Wenceslas Square is coronation. The name refers
something of a misnomer, to a 4th-century miracle in
for it is some 750 m (2,460 ft) Rome, when the Virgin Mary Vclavsk nmst 68. Map 6 E1. Tel
long and only 60 m (196 ft) appeared to the pope in a 224 497 111. X Muzeum. #
wide. Originally a horse 10am6pm daily (but
market, today it is lined with closed first Tue of month).
hotels, restaurants, clubs and & 6 for a fee.
shops, reflecting the seamier www.nm.cz
side of global consumerism.
The huge equestrian statue The Neo-Renaissance
of St Wenceslas in front of building at one end
the National Museum was of Wenceslas Square
erected in 1912. Cast in houses the National
bronze, it is the work of Josef Museum. Designed
Myslbek, the leading Czech by Josef Schulz as a
sculptor of the late 19th triumphal affirmation
century. At the foot of the of the Czech national
pedestal there are several revival, the museum
other statues of Czech patron was completed in
saints. A memorial near the 1890. The entrance is
statue commemorates the reached by a ramp
victims of the former regime. flanked by allegorical
Walking down the square The soaring Church of Our Lady of the Snows statues: seated by the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
 N O V M S T O 91

door are History and Nature;

in front is a fountain with an
allegorical figure symbolizing
the Czech nation and the
Czech rivers. If you look
closely at the faade you can
pick out pockmarks left by
shells from Warsaw Pact tanks
during the invasion of Prague
in 1968. Unmissable overhead
is a gilt-framed glass cupola.
Inside, the monumental
staircase lit by grand brass
candelabras leads to the
Pantheon, a dome-topped
hall. This contains statues and
busts of the most prominent
figures in Czech political,
intellectual and artistic life. Faade of the State Opera, formerly the New German Theatre
The vast room with windows
overlooking Wenceslas Square make way for the present also well worth seeing. The
has four huge paintings by building. This was originally central courtyard is given
Vclav Brok and Frantiek known as the New German over to a caf in the summer.
enek and Vojtch Hynais. Theatre, built to rival the
While the marbled Czech National Theatre
decoration is impressive, it (see pp945). By attracting Main Station 7
overwhelms the museums top-quality conductors and
HLAVN NDRA
displays devoted mainly to musical directors, including
mineralogy (including one of Mahler, the theatre gained a
Europes largest collections of reputation for staging some Wilsonova 8. Map 4 E5.
rocks), archaeology, anthropo- of the best German operas X Hlavn ndra.
logy, numismatics and natural outside Germany; this is
history. The museum is due to due partly to the excellent Pragues main railway station,
close at the end of 2011 and acoustics. Nowadays, the designed by Josef Fanta
will reopen in 2015. opera house stages both and constructed in 19019, is
traditional and modern works. one of the finest examples
A Neo-Classical frieze of Czech Art Nouveau archi-
decorates the pediment above tecture. The vast structure is
the loggia at the front of the magnificently decorated, with
theatre. Inside, original the walls and ceilings covered
paintings in the auditorium with allegorical figures, animals
and on the curtain have been and floral motifs. The turrets
preserved. In 1945 the theatre of the two towers that flank
became the citys principal the buildings central section
opera house. rest on the shoulders of giant
Atlantes. Even before the
building was completed the
Mucha Museum 6 nudity of these youths caused
heated controversy between
MUCHOVO MUZEUM
the local moralists and the
sculptor Stanislav Sucharda.
Pansk 7. Map 4 D4. Tel 224 216
415. X Mstek, Nmst Republiky.
Grand staircase in the National
v 3, 5, 9, 14, 24, 26. # 10am6pm
Museum
daily. 6 8 - www.mucha.cz

State Opera 5 The 18th-century Kaunicky

Palace is home to the first
STTN OPERA PRAHA
museum dedicated to Alfons
Mucha, the Czech master of
Wilsonova 4. Map 4 E5. Art Nouveau (see p25). The
Tel 224 227 266 (box office). exhibits include paintings,
X Muzeum. # for performances drawings, sketchbooks and
only. www.opera.cz photographs (some taken by
Mucha) as well as personal
The first theatre built here, memorabilia. Special attention
the New Town Theatre, is paid to the artists time in The main station faade, hiding an
was pulled down in 1885 to Paris. The documentary film is equally impressive interior
92 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Church of St
Stephen 8
KOSTEL SV . TPNA

tpnsk. Map 5 C2.

v 4, 6, 10, 16, 22. # only for
services. 5 11am Sun. ^

Founded by Charles IV in
1351 as the parish church of
the upper Nov Msto,
St Stephens was finished in
1401 with the completion of
the multi-spired steeple. In
the late 17th century the
Branberg Chapel was added;
it is now home to the tomb of
the prolific Baroque sculptor
Matthias Braun. Most of the
subsequent Baroque additions
were removed when the
church was scrupulously
re-Gothicized in the 1870s.
There are some fine Baroque The Michna Summer Palace, home of the Dvok Museum
paintings, however, including
a picture of St John Nepomuk are Dvok scores, as well as 1945; it was one of the few
by Jan Jii Heinsch to the left photographs and memorabilia historic buildings in the city
of the pulpit. But the churchs of the 19th-century Czech to be damaged during World
greatest treasure is a stunning composer, including his War II. When the church was
Gothic panel painting of the piano, viola and desk. reconstructed, it was given
Madonna, known as Our The building, designed by two concrete spires, which
Lady of St Stephens, which the great Baroque architect form an incongruous part of
dates from 1472. Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, the citys skyline.
has an elegant tiered mansard The monastery was
roof. It was built in 1720 for founded in 1347 by Croatian
the Michnas of Vacnov and Benedictines, whose services
was originally known as the were held in the Old Slavonic
Michna Summer Palace. language, hence its name Na
In the 19th century the villa Slovanech. In the course of
and garden fell into decay, Pragues tumultuous religious
but both have been heavily history, the monastery has
restored. The garden statues since changed hands many
and vases, from the workshop times. In 1446 a Hussite order
of Matthias Braun, date from was formed here, then in
about 1735. Inside, the ceiling 1635 the building was
and walls of the large room
on the first floor, often used
for recitals, are decorated with
18th-century frescoes.

Gothic pulpit in St Stephens

Emauzy Slavonic
Dvok Museum 9 Monastery 0
KLTER NA SLOVANECH
MUZEUM ANTONNA DVOKA

Vyehradsk 49. Map 5 B2. Tel 224

Ke Karlovu 20. Map 6 D2. Tel 224
917 662. X Karlovo nmst. v
923 363. X IP Pavlova. @ 291.
3, 4, 10, 14, 16, 18, 24. Monastery
# 10am5pm TueSun and for
church # JunSep: 11am5pm
concerts. & ^ 7 www.nm.cz
MonSat; OctMay: 11am5pm Mon
Fri. Cloisters # by appt. 5 10am
One of the most enchanting daily. & ^ 7 www.emauzy.cz
secular buildings of the
Prague Baroque, this red and Both the monastery and its
ochre villa now houses the church were almost destroyed The vaulted cloisters in the
Dvok Museum. On display in an American air raid in Slavonic Monastery

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
 N O V M S T O 93

acquired by Spanish Bene- Charles Square w for their Prague church. Inside,
dictines. In the 18th century KARLOVO NMST
the profusion of gilts is truly
the complex was given a dazzling.
thorough Baroque treatment, To the right of St Ignatius
Map 5 B2. X Karlovo nmst.
but then in 1880 it was taken stands the rather featureless
v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24.
over by German Benedict- former Jesuit college, also
ines, who decided to rebuild designed by Carlo Lurago.
virtually everything in Neo- The southern part of Nov It is now a teaching hospital
Gothic style. Msto resounds to the rattle that is attached to Charles
The complex, also known of trams, as many routes University, which makes use
as the Emmaus Monastery, is converge in this part of the of several buildings in and
now functioning again since city. The public garden in around this square.
the return of monks exiled Charles Square, laid out in
under Communism. Some the mid-19th century, offers
historically important 14th- a peaceful and welcome
century wall paintings are retreat, though its trees do
preserved in the cloisters, make it hard to enjoy broad
though many were damaged vistas within the square.
in World War II. The statues in the park are
of various figures from
Czech history.
Pragues largest square
it is almost twice the size of
Wenceslas Square was laid
out when Charles IV was
establishing Nov Msto in Dancing House, nicknamed Fred
1348. Built at its centre was and Ginger
a wooden tower, where the
coronation jewels were put Dancing House e
on display once a year.
TANC DM
Some time later the tower
was replaced by a chapel.
It was from here, in 1437, Rsnovo nbe 80. Map 5 B2.
that the famous document Tel 221 984 160. X Karlovo
informing the Czechs about nmst. v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16,
the concessions granted to 18, 22, 24. @ 176. Restaurant
the Hussites by the pope and # 9amnoon MonFri, 10am
the council in Basle was read noon Sat. ^
out for the first time.
Until the 19th century On the banks of the Vltava,
Baroque faade of Faust House Charles Square was used west of Charles Square, is
mainly as a cattle market, an extraordinary building
Faust House q and for selling firewood, coal affectionately named the
and other goods. On its north Dancing House. Its other
FAUSTV DM
side is the New Town Hall popular name Fred and
(see p96), while on the south Ginger alludes to the fact
Karlovo nmst 40, 41. Map 5 B3. side is the magnificent church that its silhouette brings to
X Karlovo nmst. v 3, 4, 10, of St Ignatius. Built by Carlo mind the famous American
14, 16, 18, 24. to the public. Lurago in the 1660s, this is dancing pair, Fred Astaire and
a prime example of Baroque Ginger Rogers. The glass and
This Ornate Baroque Jesuit architecture, concrete structure
mansion is the object of one intended to which, in fact, is
of Pragues most enduring symbolize the two buildings with
legends: namely, that this strength and the different faades
house, whose origins can be power of the faith. and of different
traced to the 12th century, The faade is heights, is the 1996
was once the home of the topped by a statue work of Californian
notorious Dr Faustus. of the churchs architect Frank
In the 16th century an patron saint, Gehry and his asso-
English alchemist-cum-con St Ignatius of ciate Vlado Miluni.
man Edward Kelley lived Loyola, framed by Detail from a house It was awarded a
here. However, it was the a radiant sunburst. in Charles Square special prize by
experiments of alchemist The Churchs rules Time, the American
Count Ferdinand Mladota of allowed only Christ and the magazine, for blending mod-
Solopysky, who owned the Virgin Mary to be represented ern architecture with an older,
house in the 1700s, which in this fashion, but the Jesuits historical environment. The
gave rise to its association succeeded in obtaining an French restaurant on the top
with the legend of Faust. exemption from the pope floor, Cleste, has great views.
94 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

National Theatre r
NRODN DIVADLO

This gold-crested theatre is a cherished

symbol of the Czech cultural revival.
Work on the original Neo-Renaissance
building, designed by Josef Ztek and
funded largely by voluntary contributions,
began in 1868. After the devastating fire
The theatre from Slovansk ostrov (island)
of 1881 (see opposite), however, Josef
Schulz was given the job of rebuilding
A bronze three-horse chariot,
it; all the best Czech artists of the day
designed by Bohuslav Schnirch,
contributed to the new theatres superb carries the Goddess of Victory.
decoration. In the 1970s and 80s the
theatre was restored and the New Stage
Bronze
(Nov Scena)
sculpture in was built by
the foyer Karel Prager.

The
Laterna
Magika, where
shows combine
film, theatre,
dance and light.
The New Stage
auditorium

. Auditorium
The elaborate ceiling,
painted by Frantiek
enek, is adorned
with allegorical
STAR FEATURES figures representing
. Auditorium the arts.

. Lobby Ceiling The five arcades of the

loggia are decorated with
. Stage Curtain lunette paintings by Josef
Tulka, entitled Five Songs.

. Lobby Ceiling
This ceiling fresco is
the final part of a
triptych painted by
Frantiek enek
in 1878, depicting
the Golden Age of
Czech Art.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
 N O V M S T O 95

. Stage VISITORS CHECKLIST

Curtain
This sumptuous Nrodn 2, Nov Msto. Map
red and gold 3 A5. Tel 224 901 448. X
Nrodn tda. v 17, 18, 22 to
stage curtain,
Nrodn divadlo. Auditorium
showing the Tel 221 714 152. # Sat, Sun for
origin of the tours. & 8 8:3011am.
theatre, is the 7 www.narodni-divadlo.cz
work of Vojtch
Hynais.
Faade Decoration
This standing figure on the
attic of the western faade is
one of the many figures
The roof, representing the Arts sculpted
sky-blue and by Antonn Wagner
covered with in 1883.
stars, is said to
represent the
sky the summit
that all artists
should aim for.

FIRE IN THE NATIONAL

THEATRE

The Presidents Box

The former royal box, lined in
red velvet, is decorated with
paintings of famous historical
figures from Czech history by
Vclav Brok.

On 12 August 1881, just days

before the official opening, the
National Theatre was completely
gutted by fire. It was thought to
have been started by metal-
workers on the roof. Just six
weeks later enough money had
been collected to rebuild the
theatre. It was finally opened two
years late in 1883 with a
performance of Smetanas opera
Libue (see p42).
96 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Hall already existed in the

14th century; the Gothic
tower was added in the mid-
15th century and contains an
18th-century chapel. In the
16th century an arcaded
courtyard was added.
After the four towns of
Prague were coalesced in
1784 the Town Hall ceased to
be the seat of the municipal
administration and became a
Renaissance painted ceiling in the New Town Hall courthouse and prison. It is
now used for cultural and
Church of kept up the tradition of social events.
brewing: the current brewery,
St Ursula t the smallest in the capital,
KOSTEL SV . VORILY produces and serves special Church of St Cyril
strong, dark beer, sold
Nrodn 8. Map 3 A5. Tel 224 exclusively on the premises. and St Methodius i
930 577. X Nrodn tda. KOSTEL SV. CYRILA A METODJE
v 6, 9, 18, 21, 22. 5 5pm Sat;
11am, 5pm Sun. # daily call 221 New Town Hall u Resslova 9. Map 5 B2. Tel 224 916
714 130. ^ 0 NOVOMSTSK RADNICE 100. X Karlovo nmst.
v 3, 4, 6, 10, 14, 16, 18, 22, 24.
The delightful Baroque # NovFeb: 9am5pm TueSat;
church of St Ursula was Karlovo nmst 23. Map 5 B1.
MarOct: 9am5pm TueSat.
built as part of an Ursuline X Karlovo nmst. v 3, 4, 6, 10,
&^7
convent founded in 1672. 14, 16, 18, 22, 24. Tel 224 948 229.
The original sculptures still Tower # AprSep: 10am6pm This Baroque church, with
decorate the faade, and in daily. & www.nrpraha.cz a pilastered faade and a
front of the church stands a small central tower, was built
group of statues featuring In 1960 a statue of Hussite in the 1730s. It was dedicated
St John Nepomuk with angels preacher Jan elivsk was to St Charles Borromeo and
(1740), the work of Ignaz unveiled at the New Town served as the church of a
Platzer the Elder. Hall. It commemorates the community of retired priests,
The light airy interior has a first and bloodiest of Pragues but was closed in 1783.
frescoed, stuccoed ceiling, defenestrations. On 30 July In the 1930s the church was
beautiful Baroque furnishings, 1419 elivsk led a crowd of restored and given to the
and on the various altars demonstrators to the Town Czechoslovak Orthodox
there are lively Baroque Hall to demand the release of Church. It was rededicated
paintings. The main altar some prisoners. When they to St Cyril and St Methodius,
has one of St Ursula. were refused, they stormed the 9th-century Greek monks
The adjoining convent was the building and threw the who brought Christianity to
returned to the Ursuline order Catholic councillors they the Czechs and who are often
in 1989 and is now a Catholic found inside out of the win- referred to as the Apostles to
school. Part of the ground dows. Those who survived the Slavs (see p33).
floor is used for secular the fall were finished off with In 1942 the parachutists who
purposes: it houses the pikes in the street. The Town had assassinated Reinhard
Kltern Vinrna (Convent Heydrich, the
Restaurant). Nazi governor of
Czechoslovakia, hid
in the crypt along
U Flek y with members of the
Czech Resistance.
Kemencova 11. Map 5 B1. Surrounded by
X Nrodn tda, Karlovo nmst. German troops, they
v 6, 9, 18, 21, 22. Tel 224 934 took their own lives
019. See Restaurants p376. rather than surrender.
www.ufleku.cz Bullet holes made by
the German machine
A short walk south from the guns during the siege
Church of St Ursula is one of can still be seen
the citys most famous (and below the memorial
also most touristy) beer halls, plaque on the outer
U Flek. Records have it that wall of the crypt,
beer has been brewed here which now houses
since 1459. The owners have Faade of the Baroque Church of St Ursula a museum.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3467 and pp3767
 N O V M S T O 97

Art Nouveau in Prague

The decorative style known as War I, when the style seemed
Art Nouveau originated in Paris frivolous and even decadent.
in the 1890s. Its influence There is a wealth of Art Nouveau
quickly spread internationally in Prague, mainly in Josefov and
as most of the major European Nov Msto, with the style
cities quickly responded to its perhaps at its most expressive
graceful, flowing forms. In in the decorative and applied
Prague, as in the rest of central arts: artists adorned every type
Europe, the movement was of object from doorknobs to
known as the Secession. It lamps and vases with plant-like
reached its height in the first forms in imitation of the natural
decade of the 20th century Faade detail, 10 Masaryk world from which they
but died out during World Embankment drew their inspiration.

ARCHITECTURE
Architecturally, the new style was a deliberate attempt to break
with the 19th-century tradition of monumental buildings. In Art
Nouveau the important feature was ornament, either painted or
sculpted, often in the form of a female figure, applied to a fairly
plain surface. This technique was ideally suited to wrought iron
and glass, which were both light and strong and became popular
materials. The style created buildings of lasting beauty in Prague.

Ornate
pilasters

Decorative
statues

Hotel Meran, 1904

This grand Art Nouveau Brass and
building is notable for its wrought-iron
fine detailing both inside balustrade
and out.

One of the many examples of Art Nouveau decoration

in Pragues Main Station (see p91)

ALFONS MUCHA
Many painters, sculptors and
graphic artists were influenced
by Art Nouveau. One of the
styles most successful exponents
was Alfons Mucha (18601939).
He is celebrated chiefly for his
posters, yet he also designed
stained glass, furniture,
jewellery, even postage stamps
(see p91).

Poster for Sokol Movement

This beautiful colour lithograph by
Mucha, for the Sokol gymnastic Iridescent green vase
movement, dates from 1912. made of Bohemian glass
 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A 99

FUR THER AFIELD

V isitors to Prague,
finding the historic
centre so full of sights,
often ignore the suburbs. It is
true that once visitors venture
the Trade Fair Palace, with its
superb modern art collection; the
former monastery at Zbraslav,
now a repository for some
impressive Asian art and
away from the centre, language artifacts; the Bevnov Monastery,
can become a problem. However, co-founded by St Adalbert;
it is well worth the effort, both to Vyehrad, the rocky seat of the
escape the crowds and also to Pemyslid princes; ikov, site
realize that Prague is a living city of a famous Hussite victory and
as well as a picturesque time of a giant monument that
capsule. The majority of towers over Prague; Bl
the museums and other Statuette of Mozart, on Hora (White Mountain),
show at the
attractions are easily reached Mozart Museum which remains the symbol
by Metro, tram, bus or even of national calamity; and
on foot. The sights of particular the Troja Palace, a splendid 17th-
interest include the Mozart Museum; century villa with a French garden.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries
Mozart Museum 1 Veltrusy
Trade Fair Palace
Vlt
pp1023 4 a
va

Zbraslav Chateau 8
60
8

Monastery
8
Bevnov Monastery 6

Historic Districts
7 10
Vyehrad 2
Slan Podbrady
ikov 3
12

Historic Sites
Ruzyn 6
White Mountain and Star 333

Hunting Lodge 7 Kutn

Karlovy 5 Hora
Vary
Historic Building
M0

Troja Palace pp1045 5

R5
R8

5 km
Karltejn/Plze

M0 Brno

600

R1

0 km 2 10 km
Vltav

0 miles 2
a

KEY
R1
Central Prague
R4

Greater Prague

Airport 15 km
Major road

Local road Strakonice

Part of the garden staircase of the 17th-century Troja Palace

100 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Mozart Museum 1
BERTRAMKA

Mozartova 169. Tel 257 317 465.

X Andl. v 6, 9, 10, 16.
# AprOct: 9:30am6pm daily;
NovMar: 9:30am4pm daily. &
^ - f www.bertramka.com

Though slightly off the

beaten track, in a busy,
traffic-ridden district, the
museum is well signposted. Bertramka, the villa now housing the Mozart Museum
The Czech peoples reverence
for Mozart means that the Vyehrad 2 The most imposing building
composer is treated more in Vyehrad is the vast,
like a Czech than an Map 5 B5. X Vyehrad. Neo-Gothic church of St Peter
Austrian citizen. v 3, 7, 17, 21 to Vto; 7, 18, 24 to and St Paul (sv. Petra a Pavla).
Bertramka is a 17th-century Albertov. www.praha-vysehrad.cz Nearby is Vyehrad Cemetery,
farmhouse, enlarged in the conceived by the National
following century into a According to legend Revival movement and
comfortable suburban villa in Vyehrad was the original founded in 1869 as the burial
walled grounds. Mozart and seat of the Pemyslid family, ground for the greatest
his wife Constanze stayed and it was from here that contributors to Czech cultural
here as the guests of the Princess Libue, the mythical life. Buried here are composers
composer Frantiek Duek mother of Prague, saw the Antonn Dvok and Bedich
and his wife Josefina in 1787, future glory of her city. Smetana, poet Jan Neruda,
when Mozart was working on Research has proved that as and artists Alfons Mucha and
Don Giovanni. He composed early as the 10th century the Mikol Ale.
the overture to the opera in wooded outcrop above the
the garden pavilion just a few Vltava river, south of Nov
hours before its premiere at Msto, was the site of a
the Nostitz Theatre, now the fortified settlement. Vyehrad
Estates Theatre (see p84). (The Castle on the Heights)
The house, which has a later rose to the rank of a
small exhibition devoted to royal residence, though its
Mozart, is at its best in the privileged status was soon
late afternoon when the overshadowed by Prague
crowds have gone home. Castle, on the opposite side
There is a caf in the of the river.
courtyard in which to enjoy The fortress is entered from
the peace and quiet. In the south via two gates: the Equestrian statue of Jan ika
summer, recitals take place Tbor Gate (17th century)
on the terrace. and the slightly later Leopold
Gate. The oldest
ikov 3
remaining structure on X Jiho z Podbrad, Flra. v 9,
the hill is the 11th- 11. @ 133, 175. TV Tower Tel 242
century Rotunda of St 418 778. # 10am11pm daily. &
Martin, the oldest 0 www.tower.cz
complete Romanesque
building in the capital,
albeit greatly restored. This area was the scene of
The mighty walls an historic battle in 1420, in
on top of the crag which a tiny force of Hussites
give a magnificent defeated an army of several
view of the river and thousand Crusaders. In 1877
town of Vyehrad. the area around Vtkov was
The hillside park renamed ikov in honour of
below contains some the leader of the Hussites, Jan
interesting sculptures ika; in 1950 a 9-m (30-ft)
of Czech legendary high bronze statue of ika
heroes, including on horseback was erected on
Libue and her the hill. It stands in front of
ploughman spouse, the vast National Monument
Pemysl (after whom (192732), built as a symbol
the early Bohemian of the Czech struggle for
Portal of St Peter and Paul Church, Vyehrad kings were named). independence and later used
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3479 and p377
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 101

as a mausoleum for early SAINT ADALBERT

Communist leaders.
The ugly, futuristic ikov Adalbert, born in Bohemia as
TV Tower, reaching over 216 m Vojtch, became Bishop of Prague
(709 ft) high, was built in the in 982. Dismayed by the heathen
1980s. There are fine views behaviour of its people, however,
over the city from its eighth- he resigned. He ended up at the
floor viewing platform. court of Prince Boleslav in Poland,
from where, in 997, he set out on
a mission to convert the Prussians.
Trade Fair Palace 4 They welcomed Adalbert by mur-
dering him. Boleslav brought the
See pp102103. martyrs body back and buried it
in Gniezno cathedral in Poland.
Canonized in 999, St Adalbert The Martyrdom of
Troja Palace 5 became the patron saint of Poland. St Adalbert

See pp104105.
and Kilian Ignaz Dientzen- 1620, affected the two
hofer (see p65): the monastery main communities of Prague
church of St Margaret (sv. in different ways. For the
Markty) is Christophs work. Protestants it was a disaster
Essentially a substantial that led to 300 years of
reworking of the original 10th- Habsburg domination; for
century church, it is based on the Catholic supporters of
a floorplan of overlapping the Habsburgs it was a
ovals, as ingenious as any of triumph, so they erected a
Berninis churches in Rome. memorial chapel on the hill.
For four decades the Ministry In the early 1700s this was
of the Interior used St converted into the grander
Margarets as storage space. Church of Our Lady
Also of interest is the abbeys Victorious and decorated by
meeting hall, or Theresian leading Baroque artists.
Hall, with a painted ceiling In the 16th century the
dating from 1727. woodland around the White
Mountain battle site had
Bevnov monastery, designed been a royal game park.
largely by the Dientzenhofers White Mountain The Star Hunting Lodge
(Letohrdek Hvzda),
Bevnov and Star Hunting completed in 1556, survives
Monastery 6 Lodge 7 today. This fascinating
building has a six-pointed
BL HORA/LETOHRDEK HVZDA
BEVNOVSK KLTER star design hvzda means
star. In 1950 it became a
v 22 (White Mountain), 1, 2, 18 museum dedicated to the
Marktsk 28. Tel 220 406 111. v
(Star Hunting Lodge). White writer of historical novels
15, 22. & 8 10am, 2pm, 4pm Sat
Mountain # 24 hrs daily. Star Alois Jirsek (18511930),
& Sun; by appt MonFri call 220 406
Hunting Lodge Tel 235 357 938. and the painter Mikol Ale
270. ^ www.brevnov.cz
# Apr Oct: 10am5pm TueSun (18521913). This is now
From the surrounding subur- (to 6pm MaySep). & ^ closed for reconstruction.
ban housing you would never The museum has exhibits
guess that Bevnov is one of The Battle of the White relating to the Battle of the
the oldest inhabited parts of Mountain, the decisive White Mountain and
Prague. A flourishing commu- first battle of the Czech culture.
nity grew up here around the Thirty Years War
Benedictine abbey founded in fought on 8
993 by Prince Boleslav II and November
Bishop Adalbert (Vojtch)
Bohemias first monastery. An
ancient well called Vojtka
marks the spot where the
prince and bishop are said to
have met and decided to
found the monastery.
The gateway, courtyard and
most of the present monastery
buildings are by the great
Baroque architects Christoph The 16th-century Star Hunting Lodge, close to Bl Hora
102 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Trade Fair Palace 4

VELETRN PALC

The national gallery in Prague opened its Centre for

Modern and Contemporary Art in 1995, housed in a
reconstruction of a former Trade Fair building of 1929.
Its vast, skylit spaces make an ideal backdrop for the
collection, which ranges from French 19th-century art
through superb examples of Impressionist and Post-
Impressionist painting, to works by Munch, Klimt and
Picasso, and a fine collection of Czech modern art.
The Virgins (1913)
Screening
This colourful work is
Room typical of Gustav Klimts
distinctive erotic style.

The Blind (1926)

Among the sculptures on
Fourth
display is this intriguing Floor
work by Frantiek Blek.

Third
Floor

. George of Podbrady and

Matthias Corvinus Pomona (1910)
Mikola Ale (18521913) painted This figure is by
many patriotic historical scenes. Here, Cleopatra (194257) Aristide Maillol, a
the King of Hungary signs a treaty This striking painting by pupil of Rodin,
with King George in 1469. Jan Zrzav made him a several of whose
major representative of works are included
Czech modern art. in the museums
superb display of
STAR FEATURES bronzes.
. Evening in Hradany
by J. Schikaneder . Evening in
Hradany (190913)
. George of Podbrady This atmospheric
and Matthias Corvinus painting by Jakub
by M. Ale Schikaneder
captures the magic
. Torso by Z. Penek and nostalgia of
Prague at dusk.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3479 and p377
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 103

Grand Meal (195155) VISITORS CHECKLIST

The works of the
Czech artist Mikul Veletrn, Dukelskch
hrdin 47. Tel 224 301 111.
Medek range from
X Vltavsk. v 12, 14, 15,
post-war Surrealism 17 to Veletrn;1, 12, 14, 15,
to 1960s Abstraction. 17, 25, 26 to Strossmayerovo
nmst. # 10am6pm
TueSun (last adm. 30 mins
before closing). & 8
in English. 6 7 0 =
www.ngprague.cz

Second
floor . Torso (1936)
Stairs to
all floors
Zdenk Penek was a
pioneer of kinetic art, here
combining an organic form
with neon lighting.

Egg Object (1976)

Crafted by sculptor
Ji Kol, this egg is
one of the late
20th-century
works on
display in the
museum.

Stairs to all floors

Main
entrance

First
Floor

Mezzanine
Floor

Ground
Floor

KEY
19th & 20th-century European Art

Czech Art 19001930

19th & 20th-century French Art

Czech Art 1930present day

Non-Czech Modern Art

The faades
Temporary Exhibition space concrete and glass
Non-exhibition space bands are typical of 1920s
Functionalist architecture.
104 P R A G U E A R E A B Y A R E A

Troja Palace 5
TROJSK ZMEK
One of Pragues most striking summer
palaces, Troja was built in the late
1600s by Jean-Baptiste Mathey for
Count Sternberg, member of a leading
Bohemian aristocratic family. Lying at
the foot of the Vltava Heights, the
palace was modelled on a Classical
Italian villa, while its garden was laid Defeat of
out in formal French style. The superb the Turks
interior is full of extravagant frescoes This turbaned figure, tumbling
expressing the Sternbergs loyalty to from the Grand Hall ceiling,
Terracotta urn
on the garden
the Habsburg dynasty. Troja houses a symbolizes Leopold Is triumph
balustrade good collection of 19th-century art. over the Turks.

Statue of
Belvedere Olympian
turret God

Statues
of sons of
Mother Earth

Personification of Justice
Abraham Godyns image of Justice
gazes from the lower east wall of
the Grand Hall.

. Garden Staircase
The two sons of Mother Earth which adorn the
oval-shaped staircase (16851703) are part
of a group of sculptures by Johann Georg
Heermann and his nephew Paul, showing the
struggle of the Olympian Gods with the Titans.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3479 and p377
 F U R T H E R A F I E L D 105

VISITORS CHECKLIST Zbraslav

U Trojskho zmku 1, Prague 7. Chateau 8
Tel 283 851 626. @ 112 from ZMEK ZBRASLAV
Holeovice metro station. #
AprOct: 10am6pm TueSun; Bartoova 2, Zbraslav.
NovMar: 10am5pm Sat, Sun. Tel 224 810 758. X Smchovsk
& ^ - www.ghmp.cz 7 ndra, then bus 129, 241, 243,
314, 318, 338, 361, 390.
# TueSun 10am6pm. & ^ 8
. Grand Hall Fresco 7 - www.ngprague.cz
The frescoes in the Grand Hall
depict the story of the first Ten km (6 miles) south of
Habsburg Emperor, Rudolph I, Prague, Zbraslav Chateau is a
and the victories of Leopold I little out of the way but well
worth a visit. The bus ride
over Christianitys arch-
from Smchovsk ndra
enemy, the Ottoman Empire. station takes only 15 minutes.
The building was founded
as a Cistercian monastery by
King Wenceslas II in 1292,
to serve as the royal burial
ground. The king was a
frequent visitor to Zbraslav
and was duly buried here in
1305. He and Wenceslas IV
were, in the end, the only
kings to be buried here.
In 1499 King Vladislav II
granted the monastery licence
to produce paper; the result
was Bohemias first paper mill.
Destroyed during the Hussite
Wars, the monastery was
rebuilt in 170939, only to be
abolished in 1785 and turned
into a sugar factory. Recon-
struction in the early 1900s
turned Zbraslav into a chateau,
which was handed over to
the National Gallery in 1939.
It now houses an impressive
STAR FEATURES collection of Asian art, includ-
ing art and artefacts from
Stucco . Chinese Rooms China, Japan, India, Southeast
decoration Asia and Tibet. The collection
. Garden of Japanese sculpture features
Staircase some exhibits which blind or
partially sighted people are
. Grand Hall Fresco encouraged to touch. There is
also some Islamic art.

. Chinese Rooms
Several rooms feature 18th-century murals of
Chinese scenes. This room makes a perfect Zbraslav Chateau, home to a fine
backdrop for a ceramics display. exhibition of Asian art
106 P R A G U E S T R E E T F I N D E R

PRAGUE STREET FINDER

T he map references given for all the

sights described in the Prague
chapter, and also for the hotels and
restaurants listed in Travellers Needs (see
pp3449 and 3727) refer to the street
&73014
,

maps in this section. The key map (right)

shows the area of Prague covered by the
Street Finder. This map includes sight-
seeing areas, as well as districts for "

07
hotels and restaurants. 50
,
1"
In keeping with Czech maps, none of
the street names on the Street Finder has
the Czech word for street, ulice, included
(though you may see it on the citys street
signs). Churches, buildings, museums and
monuments are marked on the Street Finder "

7
#& , 0
with their English and Czech names.

.:4-
7"
/

KEY TO STREET FINDER

,
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Major sight

Place of interest

Other building

Metro station

Train station

Bus station

Tram stop

Funicular railway

Riverboat boarding point

Taxi rank

Parking garage

Tourist information office

Hospital with emergency unit

Police station

Church

Synagogue

Post office

Railway line

City wall

Pedestrian street

SCALE OF MAP PAGES

0 metres 200

0 yards 200
1:8,400
Looking across Charles Bridge towards Prague Castle
 P R A G U E S T R E E T F I N D E R 107

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CZECH REPUBLIC
REGION
BY REGION

THE CZECH REPUBLIC AT A GLANCE 116117

CENTRAL BOHEMIA 118133
SOUTH BOHEMIA 134157
WEST BOHEMIA 158177
NORTH BOHEMIA 178193
EAST BOHEMIA 194211
NORTH MORAVIA AND SILESIA 212223
SOUTH MORAVIA 224241
116 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

The Czech Republic at a Glance

The Czech Republic is a country with
over 70 per cent of its land occupied by
uplands full of rolling hills and sweeping
valleys. It comprises three historic regions.
Bohemia, the largest, has a central basin
surrounded by ranges of mountains and
hills. To the east it borders Moravia,
a paradise for lovers of good wine, which
stretches eastwards to the border with
Slovakia. The third and smallest region, esk vcarsko, an area of extraordinary
Silesia, is a highland area to the north, sandstone formations, is best symbolized by
Pravick brna the largest natural rock
bordering Poland.
bridge in Central Europe (see pp1889).

Plzes Great Synagogue features a

magnificent vaulted ceiling. Built in the
19th century, the synagogue only
recently regained its former
splendour following
many years of
reconstruction
(see p162). N ORTH
B OHEMIA
(pp178193)

P RAGUE
CENTRAL (pp48113)
B OHEMIA
(pp118133)

WEST
B OHEMIA
(pp158177)

S OUTH
B OHEMIA
(pp134157)

esk Krumlovs
Old Town has
lovingly restored houses
with ornamented portals
and pediments, as well as
richly decorated faades
(see pp1523).

St Jamess Church, Kutn Hora is

the oldest church in a town that is
famous for its silver mining and its vast
St Barbaras Cathedral. St Jamess has
only one tower the second was never
built as there were fears that it might
collapse due to the instability of
the ground, which had been disturbed by
mining operations (see pp1223).

The castle and the houses of the Old Town beside the Vltava river, esk Krumlov
 T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C A T A G L A N C E 117

astolovice Palace, returned in 1989 to

Franziska Diana Sternberg-Phipps, is
among the best-preserved castles in East
Bohemia. Now its historic interiors serve as
an exclusive hotel and a museum (see p211).

Bouzov Castle, formerly the

property of the Order of Teutonic
Knights, was given its Neo-Gothic
form in the late 19th and early
20th centuries. Now it is a
favourite setting for films whose
action takes place in the Middle
Ages (see pp22021).
E AST
B OHEMIA
(pp194211)

N ORTH M ORAVIA
AND S ILESIA
(pp212223)

S OUTH
M ORAVIA
(pp224241)

The village of Ktiny

is home to an important Baroque
church. Also in the village is a
Baroque residence that was
converted in the first half of the
19th century by Frantiek
0 kilometres 50 Xavier of Dietrichstein into a
small castle, where this coat of
0 miles 25 arms can be seen (see p232).
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 119

CENTRAL BOHEMIA

T
he region surrounding Prague offers the combined attractions
of an extraordinary landscape with its magnificent rock
formations furrowed by river canyons, as well as a wealth of
historic towns and spectacular castles. Situated relatively close to the
city, these sights provide visitors and locals alike with superb
opportunities for exploration.

From the 6th century Nearly every town in Central

AD, Central Bohemia Bohemia has an historic
(Stedn echy) saw town centre. The old
the arrival of numerous silver-mining town of
Slav tribes, who built Kutn Hora has over
settlements and fortresses 300 excellently preserved
here. In the 10th century the buildings from the Middle
Czechs emerged as the dominant Ages and the Baroque eras.
people in the region. The first duke In a region of many castles, the
in the Pemyslid dynasty, which held most famous is undoubtedly
sway in Bohemia from the 9th Karltejn an imposing Gothic
century, was a Christian, and many fortress built by Emperor Charles IV
ecclesiastical remains in Central to house the crown jewels and
Bohemia testify to the importance of religious relics. More recent history is
this new influence. Nowhere else in reflected at Konopit Castle, owned
the country are there so many by the Archduke Franz Ferdinand.
examples of Romanesque and Early Many of the castles are set on craggy
Gothic stone architecture. At Szava hilltops, and some of the more
Monastery, founded in the 11th beautiful rock formations of the area
century, the Old Slavonic liturgy can be seen at esk Kras, not far
continues to be celebrated in the from Karltejn. This fertile region
tradition of the missionaries St Cyril also has a wine-growing area around
and St Methodius (see p33). the historic town of Mlnk.

The formal Baroque faade of Dob Palace

Kivoklt Castle, overlooked by a monument to Joseph Frstenberk, one of the castles former owners
120 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Central Bohemia

For those on a short visit to the Czech Republic, the
central part of the Bohemian Basin provides an
excellent cross-section of all the attractions that this
beautiful country has to offer. Within an hours
journey, or certainly a day trip, from Prague are a
variety of spectacular castles. Karltejn, with its
turrets and towers and immaculate interiors, is one of
the most-visited places in the country; it has some
interesting walking trails nearby. Other, less-visited,
castles, such as Kivoklt and Kokon, offer quieter
opportunities for exploration. The town of Kutn
Hora, with its atmospheric old centre and Gothic
Cathedral of St Barbara, is also hugely popular. Superb
Renaissance buildings can be seen in Nelahozeves, Schwarzenberg coat of arms made
and Dob Palace is a Baroque treasure. of bones, Sedlec ossuary, Kutn Hora

SEE ALSO KOKON

Teplice CASTLE
Where to Stay pp34950

Where to Eat pp3789

MLNK

VELTRUSY
CHATEAU
NELAHOZEVES
Neratovice
Slan Kralupy
nad Vltavou
evniov
Vlt
Karlovy Vary ava
Nov Straec Kladno
Rakovnk
LNY
PRAGUE
KIVOKLT
CASTLE HLAV N MSTO
Be
ro u PRAHA
nk Lodnice
a
KEY Beroun Velk Amerika Zbraslav

Motorway Zdice KARLTEJN

CASTLE
Main road ESK
TONK CASTLE Konprusk KRAS
Minor road Caves STEDOESK
Main railway Mnek Sza
va
Hoovice p. Brdy
Minor railway Tnec
va

Plze nad Saz.

Vlta

Regional border DOB

PALACE
Jince

Dubno

PBRAM Obory

Sedlany

Svata Hor Church above the mining town of Pbram

For additional map symbols see back flap

 C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 121

GETTING AROUND
The capital provides a convenient starting point
for exploring the sights of Central Bohemia. The
local transport network is well developed and
reliable. Railway lines offer regular services north
through Mlnk and Mlad Boleslav, east through
Koln and Kutn Hora, south via Konopite and
west to Karltejn and Kivoklt. Buses from
Prague and between towns also serve the
region well.

Liberec

Bl MNICHOVO
HRADIT PALACE
Entrance to the grounds of
Szava Monastery

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
MLAD
BOLESLAV Bentky nad Jizerou 4
Bezno
esk Kras r
Dobrovice
Dob Palace y
Karltejn Castle pp1323 t
BENTKY jezd
NAD JIZEROU Kokon Castle 7
er
a
Nouzov
Koln 2
Jiz

Konopit Castle i
Kivoklt Castle w
Brands nad Nymburk Kutn Hora pp1223 1
Labem-Star Boleslav
Labe Dlouhopolsko Lny q
PODBRADY Mlnk 8
Mlad Boleslav 5
Mnichovo Hradit Palace 6
valy esk Brod
Labe

Hradec Krlov Nelahozeves 0

Podbrady 3
KOLN
Pbram u
any
Kostelec Kobylnice Szava Monastery o
n. er. Lesy
smuky Sternberg Castle p
Tonk Castle e
Mnichovice KUTN HORA
Veltrusy Chateau 9
KRAJ slav
SZAVA 0 km 20
MONASTERY
0 miles 20
tipoklasy
Beneov
KONOPIT STERNBERG
CASTLE CASTLE
Zru nad Saz.

Vlaim S
za
va

Louovice

echtice
Jihlava

The imposing Hall of Mirrors in Dob Palace

122 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Kutn Hora 1

A rich source of silver from the 13th to the

18th centuries, Kutn Hora (Kuttenberg)
was the second most important town in
Bohemia, after Prague. Its wealth funded
many beautiful buildings, including St
Barbaras Cathedral; the Italian Court (Vlask
Dvr), which housed the royal mint and
later the town hall; the 14th-century Gothic
Church of St James (sv. Jakub); and the
15th-century Stone House (Kamenn Dm).
Since 1995 the historic centre of Kutn Hora
has been on the UNESCO Cultural Heritage Cathedrals Front Faade
List. Three km (2 miles) northeast of the In 1388 Peter Parler planned
centre is the suburb of Sedlec, home to an this five-aisled building,
extraordinary ossuary where bones accumu- with three tented spires.
lated over centuries were put together by The last architectural
carver Frantiek Rint in 1870 to form crosses, additions
a coat of arms and even a chandelier. were in the
late 19th
century.

. Vault
The central nave
with its magnificent
geometric vaulted
ceiling was
designed in the
early 16th century
by Benedikt Ried. It
incorporates coats
of arms from local
craft guilds.

Organ
The Baroque organ
case dating from
174060 hides a much
newer mechanism installed in
the early 20th century by the
local organmaker Jan Tuek.

ST BARBARAS CATHEDRAL
Dedicated to the patron saint of miners, St Barbaras
Cathedral (sv. Barbora) is one of Europes most
spectacular Gothic churches. Both interior and
exterior are richly ornamented, and the huge
STAR FEATURES windows ensure it is filled with light. Many of the
side chapels are decorated with interesting frescoes,
. High Altar
some of which depict miners at work and men
. Vault striking coins in the mint, reflecting the sources of
the towns wealth.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 123

Pulpit VISITORS CHECKLIST

The pulpit dating from
1655 is decorated with Road map B2. * 21,000.
@ from Prague.
four stone reliefs
n Palackho nmst 377.
produced in 1566 by Tel 327 512 378. Cathedral
Master Leopold, depicting # NovMar: 10am4pm daily;
the four Evangelists. AprOct: 9am6pm daily. &
Ossuary # daily. &
www.kutnahora.cz

Oak Stalls
The late 15th-century
stalls, originally designed
for St Vituss Cathedral in
Prague, feature Gothic
spired canopies
and carved
balustrades.

Stained-glass
Window
The Art Nouveau
stained-glass
windows designed
by Frantiek Urban
were added in the
early 20th century.

. High Altar
The central scene of the Neo-
Gothic high altar (19015),
a replica of the original,
depicts the Last Supper.

Balustrade
The stone balustrade of the
presbytery includes the initials of
King Vladislav Jagiello (W)
and his son Ludwig (L).
124 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Sgraffito in the courtyard of the castle in Bentky nad Jizerou

Koln 2 Bohemia, Silesia and Poland, famous as a spa. Its waters

Podbrady was built in the still draw many visitors.
Road map B2. * 30,000. from mid-12th century. George of
Prague. @ from Prague. n Na Podbrady (Ji z Podbrad) + Podbrady Castle
Tel 325 612 640. # MayOct: Tue
Hradbch 157. Tel/Fax 321 712 021. was elected the King of
Sun. & www.polabskemuzeum.cz
Bohemia in 1458.
Founded in the 13th century The towns oldest historic
by German colonists, the sight is Podbrady
town of Koln centres Castle. Begun in the
Bentky
around the Charles second half of the 13th nad Jizerou 4
Square (Karlovo century and altered
nmst). On the many times since, it Road map B2. * 7,400. @ from
western side of the is not particularly Prague. n Castle Zmek 50.
square is the town attractive architec- Tel 326 316 102.
hall (radnice), turally, but its mag-
originally Gothic, nificent location on With a name that translates
and rebuilt in the the riverbank and its as Venice (Bentky) on the
19th century in the Gothic tower topped Jizera, this town was founded
Neo-Renaissance style. by a Baroque cupola in the mid-13th century, on
Kolns dominant the towns symbol the flood-prone River Jizera.
feature is its Early Arms of Koln make it worth visiting. Its main historic sight is the
Gothic Church of St on its town hall The castle chapel Castle, built in 15267. A
Bartholomew (sv. with its traces of striking element of its decor is
Bartolomj), begun in 1261. medieval frescoes houses an the 16th-century Renaissance
The choir of this triple-aisled exhibition on King George. sgraffito on the courtyard
basilica is by Peter Parler In 1905 the towns life faade. In 1599 Emperor
builder of St Vituss Cathedral changed when a German Rudolph II bought the estate
in Prague. In the Regional dowser, von Blow, discover- and allowed the castle to be
Museum, an exhibition details ed a local source of mineral used by his court astronomer
the battle fought nearby on 18 water and Podbrady became and alchemist Tycho Brahe,
June 1757 during the Seven who built a small
Years War between Britain observatory and labo-
and France. ratory here, where he
produced an elixir
E Regional Museum against plague. It was
Brandlova 27. Tel 321 723 841.
also here that Brahe
# TueSun.
met with another
star-gazer, Johannes
Podbrady 3 Kepler, in 1600. The
castle acquired its
Road map B2. * 14,100. from Baroque form in the
Prague. @ from Prague. n Jiho 18th century.
nmst 1/1. Tel 325 612 505.
+ Bentky nad
Strategically located on the Jizerou Castle
Labe (Elbe) river on the trade Tel 326 316 682. # May
Oct: TueSun. & 8
route linking Prague with East Podbrady Castle, on the Labe

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
 C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 125

Mlad Boleslav 5
Road map B2. * 45,500. 2 km
(1 mile). @ from Prague. n elezn
107. Tel 326 322 173.

Famed as the home of koda

cars, Mlad Boleslav (Jung-
blunzau) is dominated by a
vast four-storey Castle. It
stands on the site of a former
Pemyslid stronghold, which
was established here in the
late 10th century. The present The castle in Mlad Boleslav, now a museum
heavy silhouette is the result
of its mid-18th-century conver- insurrection was beheaded Kokon Castle 7
sion into army barracks. Traces and his confiscated estate
of the Renaissance style can passed to Count Albrecht Road map B2. @ from Mlnk.
still be glimpsed in the arcaded von Wallenstein. Mnichovo Tel 315 695 064. # Apr, Oct:
courtyard. The castle is now Hradit remained in the 9am4pm Sat & Sun; MaySep:
the home of the local museum. Wallenstein family until the 9am4pm TueSun (to 5pm Jun
More interesting is the mid-20th century. Aug); NovMar: by appt only. & 8
permanent archaeological ex- The present Baroque form www.hrad-kokorin.cz
hibition in the Gothic Temple of the palace is due to exten-
Palace in the town square, sive rebuilding at the turn of In a region of forests and sand-
with its display of local finds. the 17th and 18th centuries. stone rocks lies Kokon
The Protestant Church of The opulent interiors are Castle, notable for its
Bohemian Unitas Fratrum furnished with Baroque spectacular 38-m (125-
(Unity of Bohemian Brethren) and Rococo furniture. ft) tall tower, which
at 123 eskobratrsk Nmst, The ceiling in the main offers a sweeping pano-
dating from 154454, now an hall of the palace has a rama. Built in the 14th
art gallery, is a reminder of particularly striking fresco. century, the castle suffer-
the towns former prominence The court theatre, which ed severe damage in the
as a centre of Reformation in opened in 1833, is unusual 15th century during the
the 16th century. in that it still has many of Hussite Wars and was
In the northern district of its original costumes and later abandoned. The
town is the interesting koda stage settings. The palace paek family restored
Museum with its exhibition of Chapel of St Anne is it in the early 20th cen-
motorcycles and cars that Albrecht von Wallensteins tury. Its ruins inspired
have been produced here final resting place. After many 19th-century
since the early 20th century. his murder in 1634, his painters and poets,
body was taken to the including the Czech
+ Mlad Boleslav Castle
monastery at Valdice, near Romantic poet Karel
Tel 326 325 616. # daily. &
his centre of power in Hynek Mcha (181036).
E koda Museum Jin (see p207). It The understated
V Klementa 294. Tel 326 831 134. was moved here in castle rooms house
# daily. & www.skoda-auto.com
1785 near to the body A sculpture from exhibits relating to
of his first wife. Kokon Castle its history.
Mnichovo
KODA
Hradit Palace 6
The bicycle and motorcycle manufacturers Laurin and
Road map B2. from Prague. Klement made their first motor car in Mlad Boleslav in 1905.
@ from Prague. Tel 326 773 098. Named Voiturette, it had a 1-litre, 7-HP engine and cruising
# JanMar: by appt; Apr, Oct: speed of 45 km/h (28 mph).
8:45am3pm Sat, Sun, public hols; They continued to develop
MaySep: 8:45am4pm TueSun. and improve on their models,
& www.mnichovo-hradiste.cz and, in a quest for the means
to expand, they merged
This Renaissance palace, built with the existing koda
in about 1606 by Vclav company in the 1920s. This
Budovec of Budov, is in the highly successful company
industrial town of Mnichovo became synonymous with
Hradit (Mnchengrtz). the Czech motor industry.
Following the Battle of the Since 1991 koda Auto has
White Mountain in 1620 (see belonged to the Volkswagen
p39), its owner one of the Group of Companies. A 1937 koda Rapid II
leaders of the anti-Habsburg
126 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

It occupies nearly 300 ha

(750 acres) and was established
in 176485. Its creator, Rihard
van der Schott, who created
the imperial gardens in Vienna,
took advantage of the watery
conditions on the banks of
this stretch of the Vltava river.
Numerous pavilions in Classical
and Romantic styles were built
from 1792 to 1830 amid
meadows, ponds and canals.
Attractions include the Doric
Pavilion; the Pavilion of the
Friends of Villages and
The fountain in Mlniks market square Gardens; the Egyptian Cabinet;
a bridge with the sphinx
Mlnk 8 and also sample some of the inspired by Napoleons Egypt
wines produced in Mlnk. expedition; the Empire-style
Road map B2. * 19,500. @ Pavilion of Maria Theresa and
from Prague. n Legion 51. Tel + Mlnk Castle the Neo-Gothic Red Mill.
315 627 503. www.melnik.cz Svatovclavsk 19. Tel 315 622 In 2002 Veltrusy was flooded
121. # daily. & 0
and is being restored. The park
www.lobkowicz-melnik.cz
Perched high on an escarp- is partially open to visitors.
ment, surrounded by vine-
yards, Mlnk lies at the Veltrusy Chateau 9
confluence of the two biggest
Czech rivers, the Labe (Elbe) Road map B2. 4 km (2 miles) N of
and the Vltava. The town Kralupy nad Vltavou. @ from
centres on its market square Prague. Tel 315 781 146.
(Nmst Mru), dominated by # Apr, Oct: 8:30am5pm Sat & Sun;
the Renaissance town hall May, Sep: 8:30am5pm TueFri,
(radnice) with its clock tower. 8:30am7pm Sat & Sun; JunAug:
The Baroque arcaded houses 8:30am7pm TueSun. & ^
around the square have vast
cellars that were used for Built during the first half of
storing wine. The town has the 18th century by the
been a wine-producing centre Chotek family, the chteau
since the 14th century, and was designed by Frantiek
the squares fountain Kaka. Its floor plan is in the Pavilion of the Friends of Villages
commemorates that heritage. shape of a cross, with a and Gardens in Veltrusy Park
The Gothic Church of St domed rotunda. Inside are
Peter and St Paul (sv. Petr a Baroque and Empire-style
Pavel) is a conspicuous decorations and furnishings, Nelahozeves 0
structure, with its tall onion- including inlaid Dutch furni-
domed tower. Inside, a beau- ture, Chinese, Japanese and Road map B2. * 1,200.
tiful vault and an interesting Viennese porcelain and Dutch @ from Prague.
ossuary can be viewed. decorated earthenware.
The Lobkowicz family Castle The main attraction of the The village of Nelahozeves is
is a vast edifice adjacent to chteau is, however, its vast the birthplace of the composer
the church, its walls covered English-style park, one of the Antonn Dvok (see pp223).
with some of the oldest best-preserved in Europe. Today the building where he
sgraffito in Bohemia, dating was born, opposite the church,
from 1533. Inside is an impres- is a small museum.
sive array of Czech Baroque Nelahozeves has a
art including works by Jan huge Renaissance
Kupeck (see p24), Karel Castle, which since
krta and Petr Brandl. The 1623 has belonged to
paintings are hung in well- the Lobkowicz family.
restored castle rooms, includ- In 1950 the estate was
ing the grand bedchamber and nationalized by the
the study of the Chancellor Communists, but in
George Christian. The castles 1992 it was returned
vast 14th-century three-level to the family. The
wine cellars occupy over courtyard faades are
1,500 sq m (16,000 sq ft). decorated with beauti-
Here you can see lavishly ful sgraffito. Inside
decorated old wine casks, Sgraffito on the castle in Nelahozeves are original wooden
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
 C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 127

coffered ceilings with stucco

decorations. The Roudnice
Lobkowicz Collection includes
paintings by Rubens, Breughel
and Veronese, as well as por-
celain and furniture. There are
also music archives and a
library. An exhibition, entitled
Private Spaces, explores the
life of the Lobkowicz family.

E Dvoks Birthplace
Tel 315 785 099. # 9:30amnoon,
15pm WedFri; also open 1st & 3rd
weekends of the month. & The vast Royal Hall in Kivoklt Castle
www.nm.cz
+ Castle and Roudnice
Lobkowicz Collection
Kivoklt Castle w Tonk Castle e
Tel 315 709 111. # AprOct: Road map B2. 13 km (8 miles) SE Road map B2. 15 km (9 miles) SW
TueSun. & 8
of Rakovnk. @ from Prague. of Beroun. @ from Prague via Beroun
Tel 313 558 120. # JanMar: 10am or Zdice. Tel 311 533 202. # Mar,
Lny q 3pm MonFri; Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Apr, Oct: 10amnoon, 14pm Sat,
TueSun; MayAug: 9am5pm Tue Sun; May, Jun, Sep: 10amnoon, 1
Road map B2. * 1,600. Sun (to 6pm Jul, Aug); NovDec: 5pm TueSun; Jul, Aug: 9amnoon, 1
@ from Prague to Stochov 10am3pm Sat & Sun. & 8 6pm TueSun. 8 www.tocnik.com
(2 km/1 mile). Tel 313 502 079. www.krivoklat.cz
Tonk was one of the
In 1929 Slovenian architect Built in the mid-13th last castles to be built
Josip Plenik remodelled the century by Pemysl in Bohemia during
Renaissance Palace in the Otakar II, Kivoklt the Middle Ages,
village of Lny into the summer (Prglitz) was the commissioned in
residence of the president of childhood home of about 1394 by
the Czech Republic. Its first Emperor Charles Wenceslas IV as a
occupant was Tom Garrigue IV. From 1493 to new royal residence
Masaryk (see p44), the first 1522 it was rem- following the fire
democratically elected Presi- odelled by King which destroyed
dent, and a highly popular Vladislav Jagiello Relief from the nearby ebrak
figure, who was buried in the and his son Ludwig. Kivoklt Castle Castle. In the 16th
village cemetery in 1937. The Lying in a beautiful century Tonk was
palace is not open, but it is area of woodland, the castle is remodelled in Renaissance
worth exploring its beautiful dominated by its 42-m (130-ft) style. After the Thirty Years
park. The former Baroque cylindrical Great Tower. This War it was abandoned. Now,
granary now houses the adjoins the red roofs and although partly ruined, it still
Tom G Masaryk Museum of spires of the three-wing provides a rare example in
the former presidents life. palace and chapel. The most Bohemia of the monumental
beautiful interior is that of the architecture of the turn of the
Y Lny Park
Royal Hall with its star- 14th and 15th centuries. The
# AprOct: Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun,
holidays. &
spangled vault, the second- mighty, five-storey edifice of
largest room of its type in the royal palace can be seen
E Masaryk Museum Bohemia, after the Vladislav from afar. Its Renaissance gate
Tel 313 502 608. # MayOct.
Hall in Prague Castle. dates from 1524.

The red roofs of the village of Lny at sunset

130 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

returned to its former owners

after 1989. Now it charms
visitors with its restored
interiors, which are furnished
in a combination of late
Baroque, Rococo and Neo-
Classical styles.
The French garden, one
of the most beautiful in the
Czech Republic, is set out on
five levels and featuring a
huge cascading fountain.

Pbram u
Road map B3. * 34,800.
@ from Prague.

Founded in the 13th

The Velk Amerika gorge, esk Kras century, the town of Pbam
(Pribrans) was famous for its
esk Kras r Karltejn Castle t mines, which over the
centuries yielded some 3.6
Road map B2. @ to Beroun. See pp1323. million tons of silver, as well
as lead and antimony. In the
The land around Karltejn and countrys biggest Mining
along the banks of the Dob Palace y Museum (Hornick muzeum),
Berounka river, southwest of in the district of Bezov
Prague, known as the esk Road map B3. 23km (14 miles) SW Hory, in the disused mine of
Kras, or Bohemian Karst, is of Prague. @ from Prague. Tel 318 evnsk dl, visitors can
the largest karst region in 521 240. # Apr, May: 8:30am5pm take a ride on an
Bohemia, made up of pictur- daily; JunOct: 8am5:30pm daily; underground train along a
esque limestone formations. NovMar: 8:30am4:30pm daily. & 300-m (1,000-ft) section of the
At over 800 m (2,600 ft) long, 8 www.zamekdobris.cz mine, at a depth of 1,600 m
the Konprusk Caves, 5 km (5,250 ft). The mines ornate
(3 miles) south of Beroun, are This Rococo palace was early 19th-century pithead has
the largest cave system in the built in 174565. The owner been listed as a UNESCO
republic open to visitors. of the estate, Jindich Pavel World Industrial Heritage site.
Between the towns of Mansfeld, commissioned On top of a hill above the
Moina and Kozulupy, about French architect Jules de town is Svat Hora (Holy
5 km (3 miles) north of Cotte and Italian interior Mountain), the Marian
Karltejn, is one of the most designer G N Servadoni to Sanctuary, once the biggest
extraordinary sights of the prepare the design. The and most famous pilgrimage
esk Kras. The disused and palace remained in the hands site in the entire Austro-
now flooded quarry known as of the Colloredo-Mansfeld Hungarian Empire. Built by
Velk Amerika (Great family until 1942 when it was Carlo Lurago in 165875 on
America) has provided confiscated by the Nazi the site of an earlier Gothic
dramatic settings for authorities and turned into a church, the Early Baroque
numerous Western films. residence for the German complex has a church with
Along the road that links Reich Protector. Nationalized vivid frescoes depicting the
Lodnice with Srbsko is the by the Communists, it was Sanctuarys history.
village of Sv. Jan pod Skalou
(St John under the Rock). Set
in a ravine, at the foot of a
mighty crag, is the Baroque
Church of the Nativity of St
John the Baptist (Narozen
Jana Ktitele), built by Carlo
Lurago in 1657. From inside
the church there is access to
three travertine caves the
site of a cult of St Ivan, a 9th-
century hermit.
} Konprusk Caves
Tel 311 622 405. # AprOct: daily.
& 8 http://jeskyne.cesky-kras.cz
The palace in Dob from the gardens

Winter scene at Sternberg Castle

 C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 131

E Mining Museum
Tel 318 626 307. # NovMar: ARCHDUKE FRANZ FERDINAND
TueFri; AprOct: TueSun. The Austrian Archduke Franz
Underground exhibition Ferdinand bought Konopite in
# AprOct: as museum; 1887. For the Archduke,
NovMar: by appt TueSun. & 8 criticized by the Habsburg Court
R Church of Svat Hora for marrying a Bohemian
Tel 318 626 351. # daily. noblewoman Sophie Chotek, the
castle was a refuge from the
hostilities of Viennese society.
Franz Ferdinand lived in his
Bohemian home until his death
alongside his wife at the hands
of an assassin in Sarajevo the
event that led to the outbreak of
World War I in 1914.

terraced garden, many Sternberg Castle p

statues, a deer park, a lake
and a superb rose garden. Road map B2. esk ternberk.
@ from Prague to esk ternberk
zastvka. Tel 317 855 101. # Apr
Szava Monastery o & Oct: 9am5pm Sat, Sun, public
hols; MaySep: 9am5pm TueSun
Road map B2. 18 km (11 miles) SE of (JunAug: to 6pm); last adm 45 mins
Hunting trophies in the corridors Beneov. @ from Prague. Tel 327 before closing. All year: groups of
of Konopit Castle 321 177. # MayAug: 9am5pm 10 and over by appt daily. & 8
TueSun; Sep: 9am4pm TueSun;
Konopit Castle i Apr, Oct: 9am3pm Sat, Sun, public The sprawling edifice on
hols; by appt TueFri. & 8 top of a high cliff above the
Road map B3. 2 km (1 mile) W of www.klaster-sazava.cz Szava river valley is a truly
Beneov. @ to Beneov. Tel 317 impressive sight. The early
721 366. # Apr, Oct: 9amnoon, Founded in 1032, this Gothic castle erected on this
13pm TueSun (to 4pm Sat & Sun); Benedictine monastery has site in the mid-13th century
MaySep: 9amnoon, 15pm Tue remained a centre of the by the Sternberg (ternberk)
Sun; Nov: 9am3pm TueFri. & 8 Slavonic liturgy, and to this family was captured and
3 routes. - day every Sunday an Old destroyed by the army of King
Slavonic liturgy mass is cele- George of Podbrady in 1467.
One of the most popular brated here. A new church At the turn of the 15th and 16th
tourist sites in the Czech was started in 1315, but only centuries the owners restored
Republic, Konopit Castle the tower and a wall of one the demolished walls and
belonged to the heir to the of the naves, with high Gothic extended the fortifications. The
Austrian throne, Franz windows, were completed; 17th-century Baroque interiors
Ferdinand. The Gothic these remain today. The contain some striking Italian
castle has richly furnished original frescoes in the church stucco work, especially in the
apartments, a collection of date from the time of Charles Knights Hall. Some of the
Late Gothic paintings in the IV and include unusual images rooms house displays of en-
chapel, and a gallery of the of the life of the Virgin Mary. gravings and historic weapons.
Archdukes artefacts relating
to the cult of St George. It
also houses a famous
collection of the weapons of
Franz Ferdinand, including
items produced by the best
armourer and gunsmith
workshops in Europe. But
many visitors are particularly
amazed by the Crown Princes
collection of about 300,000
hunting trophies: countless
antlers and stuffed animals
line the corridors and
numerous rooms of the castle.
Three tour routes explore the
different collections.
The huge park of 225 ha
(555 acres) contains a View of Sternberg Castle above the Szava river

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
132 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Karltejn Castle t

This imposing Gothic castle is one of the most frequently

visited historic sites in the Czech Republic. It was built for Grand
the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV in 1348 as a royal Tower
residence and a treasury where imperial insignia and crown
jewels as well as documents, works of art and holy relics
were stored. In the 16th century Karltejn (Karlstein) was
remodelled in Renaissance style. The castle owes its present
form to the restoration work carried out in the 19th century,
mainly by Josef Mocker, who returned the building to its
original appearance. At that time the castle was given its
ridge roofs as a typical feature of medieval architecture.
. Holy Cross Chapel
The walls of the Holy
Cross chapel are hung
with a unique collection
of 129 portraits of saints
and monarchs
works of Master
Theodoric, court
painter to
Charles IV.

The first floor of the

Vorilka Tower Gate Grand Tower features
The Vorilka Tower was once the two rooms, which in
castles main entrance. Now the the 19th century were
entrance is via the gate below the turned into a museum
Tower, and along the former moat. with a collection of
pictures depicting
Karltejn and other
The Well Tower castles.
The Well Tower is situated
at the lowest point of the
castle complex. Inside is
an old wooden treadwheel
for hauling water, operated
by two people.

STAR FEATURES
. Holy Cross Chapel
. St Marys Tower

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp34950 and pp3789
 C E N T R A L B O H E M I A 133

. St Marys Tower VISITORS CHECKLIST

One of the paintings in the
church of St Mary depicts Road map B2. from Prague
Charles IV receiving two thorns (30-min walk from stn to Karltejn).
Tel 274 008 154. # 9amnoon,
from the crown of Jesus from 13pm TueSun (May, Jun, Sep:
the French Dauphin, Charles. to 5pm; Jul, Aug to 6pm). Chapel
NovMay. & 8 2 routes
(reservation compulsory for
route II). www.hradkarlstejn.cz

St Catherines Chapel
Used as a place of meditation
by Charles IV, this tiny chapel
has walls that are richly
decorated with paintings and
semi-precious stones.

Madonna Statue
The 14th-century marble
statue of the Madonna, in
the royal bedchamber,
belonged to King Charles IV.

The Imperial Palaces

first floor was used by
courtiers; the second by Vassals Hall of the Imperial Palace
the Emperor himself for A striking feature of the Vassals Hall is the late Gothic
private and official altarpiece from St Palmatiuss Church in the village of
functions. Budany at the foot of Karltejn Castle.
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 135

SOUTH BOHEMIA

W
ooded hills and spreading meadows characterize much of
South Bohemia, while in the flatter, central area around
Tebo hundreds of glittering medieval fish ponds, still
used for raising carp, can be seen. The backbone of the region is the
Vltava river. This rises in the umava Mountains to the southwest, a
remarkably unspoilt area of dense forests and tiny villages.
In the 13th century and its fascinating castle, but
several fortified towns many other historic towns,
were established in such as Jindichv
South Bohemia (Jin Hradec and Tebo
echy), with the aim of are equally rich in
defending the kings rule. well-preserved buildings.
The foremost of them, esk South Bohemia played a
Budjovice, is now the regions prominent role in the history
capital and source of Budvar, the of the Hussite movement. Tbor
famous local beer. became the main centre of the more
The deciding influence on the life radical faction of the religious
of South Bohemia in the Middle Ages reformers who strongly opposed the
was often exerted by two powerful 15th-century social conditions.
aristocratic families the Romberks In the 17th century the Bavarian
(Rosenbergs) and the lords of Hradec. Schwarzenberg family achieved great
Both built numerous castles and power in the region. It is to them
fortified towns, known as Rose that the fortress in Hlubok nad
Towns after the red rose of the Vltavou, the most frequently visited
Romberks and the black rose of the castle in this part of the country,
Hradec. esk Krumlov, owned by owes its fairy-tale Neo-Gothic form.
the Romberk family is the regions One of the most magnificent collec-
top tourist destination for the picture- tions of Late Gothic art is found here
postcard perfection of its old town in the Ale South Bohemian Gallery.

Boubn forests, the last remaining virgin backwoods of umava, southwest Bohemia

Decorated towers of the Castle and the Church of St Justus in esk Krumlov
136 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring South Bohemia

The historic sights of South Bohemia, its
magnificent scenery and its opportunities for
hiking and canoeing satisfy a wide range of
interests. The architectural variety is
astonishing as well-preserved grand squares
and churches jostle for attention with the
traditional architecture of Holaovice.
Individual buildings stand out: the fairy-tale
castle in Hlubok, for example, with its
bristling turrets, and the vast, soaring cooling
towers of the Temeln power station. In the
southern part of the region, along the border Coat of arms above the
with Austria, runs the umava mountain entrance to Hlubok Castle

range. It is worth making time to explore the

Prague
Vltava river and its villages, not forgetting to Plzen
sample the local beers in any of the
many Bohemian beer halls.
Mirovice Orlk Castle

Milevsko
KEY
ZVKOV CASTLE
Motorway Blatn

va
Main road
ta
O
Horadovice
Minor road Tebkov

Vl
ta
Main railway Ot PSEK
va
Rab av
a
Minor railway BECHYN
STRAKONICE
International border Abrechtice

Regional border Tn nad Vltavou

Summit TEMELN
Volyn
Vodany
Kapersk
Hory
kyn JIHOESK
ce
ni

Vimperk
Bla

Vka
1117m
HLUBOK NAD
VLTAVOU
Kvilda Netolice
PRACHATICE
Boubn
1362m HOLAOVICE
ESK
BUDJOVICE
Strn
T Volary
H ZLAT KORUNA
E
MONASTERY
Klet Blansk
1083m
Kniec Stolec
U 1226m
M ESK
A KRUMLOV
V
A
Horn Plan
Vlta

Vodn ndr Kaplice

Lipno ern
va

ROMBERK NAD
Zb. Lipienski
1053m VLTAVOU CASTLE
Doln
Dvoit
VY BROD
MONASTERY
The town hall in esk Budjovice Linz

For additional map symbols see back flap

 S O U T H B O H E M I A 137

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Bechyn 4 Nov Hrady q Vy Brod Monastery e
erven Lhota Castle 7 Pelhimov 6 Zlat Koruna Monastery y
esk Budjovice Psek p Zvkov Castle a
pp1389 1 Prachatice i
Tour
esk Krumlov Romberk nad Vltavou Castle w
Slavonice 9 The umava pp1489 r
pp1525 t
Hlubok nad Vltavou 2 Strakonice o
Holaovice u Tbor pp1423 5
Jindichv Hradec Temeln 3
pp1445 8 Tebo 0 SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp35052

Where to Eat pp38082

Prague

Prague GETTING AROUND

The main transport artery of
Mlad the region is the northsouth
Voice main road 3 (international E55
Jihlava
route) linking Prague with Linz
VYSOINA in Austria. The capital of South
Bohemia esk Budjovice
PELHIMOV is linked by a network of local
TBOR Kmen
buses with all the neighbouring
Chnov towns. Buses provide fast and
Malice Rynarec
Sezimovo relatively frequent access to
st
L u n

most parts of the region. Trains

Kamenice serve much of the region, even
ice

nad Lipou Horn

Cerekev mountainous areas, although
Sobslav routes may take a little planning.
Check the frequency of buses
ERVEN LHOTA irovnice and trains during weekends
CASTLE
Vesel nad and public holidays.
Lunic Pluhv dr
Telc
Kardaova
eice
JINDICHV
KRAJ HRADEC
evtn Kunak
Lomnice nad
Lunic
Daice
Landtejn
Liov Castle
TEBO
Nov Bystice
SLAVONICE
Lu
ni ce

Borovany Suchdol
nad Lunic

Trhov Sviny
Vienna

umberk NOV HRADY

0 km 15

0 miles 15 The frescoed Grand Hall at Bechyn Castle

138 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

esk Budjovice 1 of esk Budjovice, and

altered by Peter Parler in the
Founded by Pemysl Otakar II in 1265, the town of 14th century, is this
esk Budjovice (Budweis) fast became the strong- interesting former monastery.
hold of the kings power in South Bohemia. As early as Inside the church (Kostel
the 13th and 14th centuries it had two magnificent Obtovn Panny Marie),
cross-rib vaulting can be
churches and mighty town walls. Spared by the Thirty seen. The furnishing is mostly
Years War, it was subsequently destroyed by the great Neo-Gothic, but there is also
fire of 1641. Today, the capital of South Bohemia is an a spectacular Rococo pulpit
important industrial centre, not least for its internationally dating from 1759, and 17th-
renowned Budvar Brewery. century organs. The large
stone amphibian seen on the
side wall by the church
entrance, is a reminder of the
local legend about the
creature, who was guarding
the treasure supposedly
hidden on the site, and tried
to prevent the start of the
church building. The Gothic
cloister also has two original
tracery windows that are
lovely examples of medieval
stonemasonry work.
Nmsti Pemysla Otakara II one of Europes largest squares
P Butchers Market
Exploring the Town P Town Hall Krajinsk 13.
The towns well-preserved Nmst Pemysla Otakara II. Tel 386 The Renaissance butchers
historic centre lies on a 801 413. # Tours: Jul & Aug: 10am, market (Masn krmy) now
peninsula created at the con- 2pm, 4pm MonFri; 10am, 2pm Sat, houses a restaurant. On its
fluence of the rivers Vltava, Sun; May, Jun, Sep: 2pm daily. & 8 top are three stone masks,
Male and Mlnska stoka. It The southwest corner of the and the year of building: 1531.
has maintained its town square is occupied
original layout with a by a Baroque, white P Black Tower
central square and and blue town hall U ern ve. Tel 386 352 508.
surrounding streets (radnice) with three # AprJun, Sep, Oct: 10am6pm
in a grid pattern. towers, built by TueSun; Jul, Aug: 10am6pm daily. &
Most sights are Antonio Martinelli in Standing next to St Nicholass
within this compact 172730 to replace a Cathedral is the Gothic-
central area. Renaissance build- Renaissance Black Tower
ing. Allegorical (erna v) dating from 1577,
P Nmst statues of Provi- formerly serving as a belfry and
Pemysla dence, Justice, the towns observation tower.
Otakara II Wisdom and In 1723 two bells were placed
The town square Honesty stand on in the belfry; in 1995 a third
bears the name of the roof. On top of bell was added Budvar
the towns founder. Coat of arms on the tallest tower is a presented to the town by the
Measuring 133 x 133 m the town hall statue of the Czech nearby brewery. The reward
(436 x 436 ft), the huge lion, and on
square is surrounded by the left side is the
arcaded houses built mostly medieval standard ell
during the Middle Ages, and measure (the fore-
now after numerous arm) used when
alterations by their German measuring cloth. The
owners with Renaissance Debating Hall features
and Baroque faades. At the The Judgement of
squares centre stands the Solomon (1730) by
Baroque Samsons Fountain, Jan Adam Schpf.
built in 1727, with a sculpture
of Samson and the lion. It R Dominican Mona-
was produced by Josef stery and Church of
Dietrich, and for a while it the Sacrifice of the
was the only source of water Virgin
for the towns population. Piaristick nmst.
Look out for cobblestones # 10am5pm daily.
laid in 1934 in a distinctive Built at the same
pattern of large squares. time as the founding The three-towered faade of the town hall
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 139

1740 painting Death of the VISITORS CHECKLIST

Virgin Mary in the south
chapel; also at the main altar- Road map B3. * 95,600.
piece by Leopold Huber (1791). Ndran 119/4.
@ Ndran 1759.
E South Bohemia Museum n Nmst Pemysla Otakara II 2.
Dukelsk 1. Tel 387 929 311. Tel 386 801 413.
# 9am12:30pm & 15pm www.visitceskebudejovice.cz
TueSun. www.muzeumcb.cz _ City Hall Summer (Festival of
Established in 1887, this Music and Theatre): JulAug.
museum (Jihoesk muzeum)
is the oldest of its kind in prison and torture chamber.
South Bohemia. It houses a Its name translates as Iron
natural science collection, Maiden after the instrument
regional exhibits and of torture (and death) used
16th18th-century art. here whose shape resembled
a woman.
P elezn Panna
View of the Black Tower and town Ztkovo nbei. E Motorcycle Museum
square with Samsons fountain This tower, erected in the Piaristick nmst. Tel 387 200 849
14th century, was used as a # MarOct: 9am5pm WedSun.
for climbing the 225 winding The motorcycle museum
stairs to the top at a height (Motocyclov muzeum) in the
of 72 m (236 ft), is the former Salt House has well-
magnificent panorama. preserved old Czech machines
and some Harley-Davidsons.
R St Nicholass Cathedral
U ern ve. Environs
On a small plot at the north- North of the centre is the
eastern corner of the town famous, state-owned
square is St Nicholass Cathe- Budvar Brewery, where
dral (Chrm sv. Mikule). beer has been made since
This triple-aisled edifice the 19th century; visits can
started as a church in the be arranged direct or via the
13th century. The original tourist information office.
Gothic building burned down
in 1641 and was rebuilt a few P Budvar Brewery
years later in the Baroque Karolny Svtl 4. Tel 387 705 347.
style. Inside, take a look at Painting from a house (No. 140) # MarDec: 9am5pm daily;
the pulpit and an interesting close to elezn Panna JanFeb: 9am5pm TueSat. & 8

Budvar Brewery
1 km (0.6 miles)
ESKE BUDJOVICE
TOWN CENTRE OV
A
NA
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SA
Black Tower 5 DE
CH
Butchers Market 4 HRADEBN
Ml
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Dominican Monastery and s
to ka
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ESK

Church of the Sacrifice of

NA S
KRAJINS

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NA
the Virgin 3 M A
H R L N DE
PL A C H

Motorcycle Museum 9 AD CH
V E
U ER

SK

PIARISTICK
ST
BN

Nmst Pemysla
OC

NM.

Motorcycle H R OZ NO V
E

Otakara II 1 Museum Black

Butchers Tower
St Nicholass Cathedral 6 St Nicholass
Market
Cathedral
ESK

Dominican Monastery KAN O VN I

South Bohemia Museum 7 and Church of the Samsons
C K

Train and Bus Stations

Town Hall 2 Sacrice of the Virgin Fountain
KN SK

500 m (550 yards)

NMST
elezn Panna 8 Town Hall PEMYSLA
OTAKARA II
KARLA IV

A
BI S KU P S K

DR. STEJSKAL

IROK
South Bohemia
0 metres 200 elezn panna Museum
ZTK
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0 yards 200 Mal

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Key to Symbols see back flap

140 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

the close-up view of its 150-m

(500-ft) high cooling towers.

Environs
In Albrechtice, 5 km (3 miles)
north of Temeln, by the
Baroque Church of St Peter
and St Paul, is an unusual
cemetery. In 184154 108
small shrines were built here,
each painted in a nave style
to record events in the life
of the deceased.

Bechyn 4
Sumptuously furnished Tapestry Room in Hlubok Castle
Road map B3. * 5,500. from
Hlubok nad Temeln 3 Tbor. @ from esk Budjovice or
Prague. n Nmst TG Masaryka 5.
Vltavou 2 Road map B3. from esk Tel 381 213 822.
Budjovice. @ from esk Budjovice
Road map B3. * 5,000. @ from
or Prague. Tel 381 102 639. # Jul, The most beautiful view of
esk Budjovice or Prague. n
Aug: 9am5:30pm daily; SepJun: this picturesque spa resort is
Zborovsk 80. Tel 387 966 164.
9am4pm daily (appt recommended). from the Rainbow (Duha)
bridge, 50 m (160 ft) above the
Hlubok village is known for The atomic power station in Lunice river. The train ride
its Castle, regarded by many as Temeln was started under the from Tbor takes you over this
Bohemias most beautiful aristo- Communists in 1983, using bridge, and is a pleasant way
cratic residence. Built in the Soviet technology, and com- to arrive. Bechyns spring
13th century by Wenceslas I, pleted in the 1990s using US waters attract those seeking
the Gothic castle was and European technology. treatment for rheumatism
remodelled several times: in the Designed to provide up to and metabolic disorders.
16th century in Renaissance 20 per cent of the The Castle is the
style; then under the owner- Czech Republics towns oldest sight. A
ship of the Schwarzenbergs in electricity, it finally 12th-century Gothic
the 18th century in Baroque opened in 2000. fortress given a
style; and from 1839 to 1871 Prior to that it Renaissance make-
in the style of the English became famous for over four centuries
Neo-Gothic. It has 11 towers the protests it later, it now houses
and over 120 rooms filled provoked in the an exhibition of its
with furniture and paintings. Czech Republic and Coat of arms, history. In the former
In the castles former riding other European Bechyn Castle synagogue near the
school is the Ale South Bohe- countries, particularly main square is the
mian Gallery (Alova jihoesk Austria, whose border is a Firefighters Museum
galerie), a collection of 57 Fle- mere 50 km (30 miles) away. (Hasisk muzeum), with sev-
mish tapestries and Bohemian Critics of the project point out eral old fire engines on display.
medieval art. The Adoration of that from the time of its
Infant Jesus by the Master of commissioning in 2000 there + Bechyn Castle
Tebo (1380) is a highlight. have been frequent failures. Tel 381 213 143. # Jun, Sep: Sat &
A stop at the stations visitor Sun; JulAug: TueSun. &
+ Hlubok Castle centre provides information on E Firefighters Museum
Tel 387 843 911. # JanJun, Sep, the functioning of Temeln, Tel 602 840 275. # May:
Oct: TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily; Dec: but much more impressive is ThuSun; JunAug: TueSun.
WedSun. & 8
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Environs
# daily. www.ajg.cz Tn nad Vltavou, 11
km (7 miles) south
Environs of Bechyn, has a
In the Baroque Ohrada market square with
Hunting Lodge, just south of many Renaissance
Hlubok, is a hunting, fishing houses, the most
and forestry museum, filled prominent of them
with hunting trophies. being the town hall
with its arcades and
E Ohrada Hunting Lodge richly ornamented
Tel 387 965 340. # AprOct: Rococo faade. In
9am5pm TueSun. Towers of Temeln nuclear power station the 1699 Baroque
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 141

palace is an interesting an island at the centre

regional museum. of a small lake. The
E Tn nad Vltavou Museum
original Gothic castle
Nmst Mru 1. Tel 385 772 303.
was remodelled in the
# Mar, Apr, Oct, Nov: MonFri; 16th century into a
MaySep, Dec: SunFri; JunAug: Renaissance residence
TueSun. named Nova Lhota. In
the early 17th century
the island was linked
Tbor 5 with the mainland by
a stone bridge and the
See pp1423. castle roof was
covered with red tiles,
which subsequently
Pelhimov 6 Baroque gable on a house in Pelhimov gave it its name
(erven means red).
Road map B3. * 16,500. @ In irovnice, 20 km (12 miles) The German composer Karl
from Prague. n Masarykovo nmst south of Pelhimov, is a Ditters von Dittersdorf lived
10. Tel 565 326 924. _ Festival of Renaissance Castle featuring here until his death in 1799.
Records and Curious Performances: historic interiors and a museum In 1945 the castle was taken
mid-Jun. www.pelhrimovsko.cz of wickerwork and button- out of private hands by the
making products for which state and turned first into a
The charming town of the town became famous in childrens hospital and later
Pelhimov has a medieval the 19th century. Potky, sit- into a cultural establishment
pedigree. It retains its defence uated nearby, is a small town open to visitors. Displayed
walls with two tower gates, with a Baroque church and a inside are furnishings
and the Gothic Church of St picturesque market square. representing periods from the
Bartholomew (sv. Bartolomj). Renaissance to Biedermeier in
The town square has houses E Motorcycle Museum the mid-19th century, as well
with Renaissance and Baroque Tel 565 426 609. # Apr, Oct: Sat, as porcelain and tapestries.
faades and pediments. No. 13, Sun & holidays; MaySep: TueSun. The castle is surrounded by a
originally Baroque, is particu- + irovnice Castle scenic park, where there is
larly striking: Pavel Jank gave Tel 565 494 095. also a castle chapel. In
it a Cubist faade in 191315. # AprOct: TueSun. summer it is possible to hire a
A singular attraction of boat to go on the lake, and to
Pelhimov is its Festival of take a ride in a horse and
Records and Curious carriage around the grounds.
Performances, held in mid-
June for those who want to Environs
earn a place in the Guinness Pluhv r, 2 km (1 mile)
Book of World Records. Some south of erven Lhota, is a
of these extraordinary feats 14th-century fortress
are documented in the transformed in the 18th
Museum of Records (Muzeum century into a Baroque
rekord a kuriozit) in one of residence. The last owners of
the towns Gothic gates. Those the palace before World War
taller than 205 cm (80 in), and II were the president Edvard
adults shorter than 145 cm Bene and his brother Vojta.
(57 in) or measuring more The family descendants, who
than 135 cm (53 in) around regained possession of the
the waist, are admitted free castle in 1992, are happy to
of charge. admit visitors.
Sobslav, 11 km (7 miles)
E Museum of Records
The Gothic erven Lhota Castle to the west, is famous with
Tel 565 321 228. # 9am5pm
daily. &
Czech visitors for its 16th-
century love story involving
erven Lhota one of the most powerful
Environs Castle 7 Bohemian lords, Peter Vok of
A Motorcycle Museum is Romberk, and a millers
housed in a 14th-century castle Road map B3. 8 km (5 miles) daughter Zuzana Vojova. It
in the tiny village of Kmen Kardaova eice. Tel 384 384 228. now delights visitors with its
(meaning rock), which lies # Apr, Oct: 9:30am5pm Sat, Sun, picturesque town square
15 km (9 miles) west of public hols; MaySep: 9:30am5pm flanked by historic houses,
Pelhimov. There are numer- TueSun (JunAug: to 6pm). & 8 and two fine Gothic churches:
ous exhibits from the National St Vitus (sv. Vta) and Our
Technical Museum in Prague, Enjoying an exceptionally Lady (Panny Marie). Both are
including an 1898 Laurin and scenic location amid forests, worth visiting for their
Klement motorcycle. the erven Lhota Castle is on magnificent arched ceilings.
142 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Tbor 5

A military camp established in 1420 by Church of the

Hussite refugees from Prague grew into Transfiguration
the town of Tbor, named after the This image of Christ
mountain where Christs Transfiguration is from the beauti-
took place. Radical Hussite reformers ful Baroque pulpit
(see pp367) became known as of this Neo-Gothic
Taborites, and fought battles church. There is
throughout Bohemia, but were finally also an unusual vault
defeated in 1434. Today, the lively Old over the presbytery. Its
Town retains its maze-like narrow streets tall bell tower offers a
and alleyways. It lies between the town panorama of the town.
walls, the Lunice river and Jordn lake, a
short walk west of the new town.

jM8>q
. Town Hall
On the main square, ikovo nmst,
is the Town Hall (144051). Inside, the
Grand Hall features superb net vaulting.
The Hussite Museum (Husitsk
muzeum) now occupies the building.
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A stroll along
Klokotsk takes you to
Bechyska brna
(gate) and tower
the only one left.

KEY . koch House

This gable of kochv dm
Suggested route
is one of the finest
examples of Gothic-
Renaissance
STAR SIGHTS architecture in
Bohemia. The
. koch House gables of houses
facing the
. Town Hall main square
. Ulice Prask are astonish-
ingly varied.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 143

Ctibor House VISITORS CHECKLIST

One of the towns most interesting
houses (Ctiborv dm), this is a Road map B3. * 35,700. @
n ikovo nmst 2. Tel 381 486
magnificent example of the Late
230. www.tabor.cz _ Hussite
Gothic, built in 1532. Its gable Festival: Sep. Hussite Museum
with tracery decorations crowns Nmst Mikule z Husi 44.
the cream-white faade. Tel 381 252 242. &
www.husmuzeum.cz

Statue of Jan ika

The monument to the Hussite
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military leader was officially

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unveiled in 1877 but was badly cast

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and had to be recast in 1884.

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The 1603 house southeast corner of

at No. 210 a the main square
very fine Flemish
were built after the
Renaissance
building has an Great Fire of 1532.
intricate gable
decorated with
figurative and 0 metres 20
floral sgraffito.
0 yards 20
Stark House
The faade of Starkv dm (No. 157),
dating from 1526, is decorated with
lavish 1570 sgraffito inspired by nature
and history.
144 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Jindichv Hradec 8

One of the most beautiful towns in South Bohemia,

situated among medieval fish ponds, Jindichv Hradec
(Neuhaus) lies slightly off the main tourist track. It was
founded in the 13th century by the lords of Hradec. The
Old Town, a peaceful, interesting area, centres on the
main square (nmst Mru), lined with vividly coloured
houses, many of which were rebuilt after a fire in 1801.
Northwest of the square are cobbled alleys leading to the
Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
(Nanebevzet Panny Marie), with a tower offering
excellent views. To the west of the Old Town is . Rondel
the huge castle. The interior of this 1592
music pavilion is decor-
ated with the family tree
tracing the descent of
Adam II of Hradec from
the biblical Adam.

Adam IIs Bedchamber

The spread on the
Baroque bed is decorated
with symbols of the
marriage of Adam II and
Katherine de Montfort.

Prince Adams palace was

designed by Baldassare
Maggi in 1561.

JINDICHV HRADEC CASTLE

Beside the Vajgar fish pond lies this
ernns Dining Room 13th-century castle, once the main
The dining room houses a residence of the lords of Hradec.
valuable dining service Originally a Gothic building, it was made into
made of habanska a Renaissance palace by Italian architects in the
majolica, collected late 16th century. Antonio Cometa added the
during the 17th century. three-tiered courtyard arcades at this time.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 145

The Spanish Wing VISITORS CHECKLIST

The vast state room of
the Renaissance Road map B3. * 22,400.
@ from Prague or esk
Spanish Wing was
Budjovice. n Pansk 136.
built to a design by Tel 384 363 546.
Baldassare Maggi. Its Castle Tel 384 321 279.
grand furnishings # AprOct: TueSun. &
include this 16th- 8 3 tour routes. www.jh.cz
century wardrobe.

The Black Tower, the 32-m

(104-ft) high tower, dating
from the early 13th century,
was used as a prison.

The Red Tower Kitchen

The kitchen with its open hearth
and four corner chimneys
projecting above the
roof of the tower was
built around 1500
and is still in use. This
is the best-preserved
kitchen of its type in
the Czech Republic,
and includes the
original equipment.

. Holy Spirit Chapel

The chapel frescoes uncovered during
reconstruction works in about 1727
depict scenes from the life of Christ and
other biblical motifs.

The Royal Hall STAR FEATURES

The paintings hung in . Holy Spirit Chapel
the vaulted hall are
portraits of the former . Rondel
rulers of Bohemia.
146 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Slavonice 9 mighty square towers is gate (Hradeck brna). The

occupied by a chapel. Church of St Giles (sv. Jilj) on
Road map B3. * 2,700. from Husova has an unusual twin-
Tel. @ from Prague. n Nmst + Landtejn Castle aisled interior.
Mru 480. Tel 384 493 320. Tel 384 498 580. # Apr & Oct: Sat
The towns huge Renaissance
& Sun; MaySep: TueSun. &
www.slavonice-mesto.cz Castle was built in the first half
of the 16th century on the site
Slavonice (Zlabings), situated of a Gothic fortress. Inside,
next to the Austrian border, visitors can view the
is a pleasant, sleepy little Renaissance Romberk apart-
town with a street layout ments and the 19th-century
preserved unchanged since living quarters of the last
the 13th century. owners the Schwarzenbergs,
An exceptional number of who owned many estates
its Gothic and Renaissance throughout South Bohemia.
houses feature decorative
sgraffito and opulent gables. + Tebo Castle
The houses at Nos. 25 and 46 Tel 384 721 193. # AprOct:
Doln nmst are particularly TueSun. 8
stunning with their beautiful
ground-floor vaulted ceilings; Environs
also worth a visit is the house On the opposite side of the
at No. 517 Horn nmst, Svt pond from Tebo stands
whose first-floor rooms are Renaissance arcades in the inner the vast Schwarzenberg
decorated with 16th-century courtyard of the Castle in Tebo Mausoleum (Schwarzenbersk
wall paintings depicting hrobka). This three-storey
scenes from the Apocalypse. Tebo 0 edifice with its monumental
There are also two Gothic- stairs and lofty tower was built
Renaissance town gates and Road map B3. * 8,800. in Neo-Gothic style in 1877. It is
two Gothic churches. The @ 1 km (0.5 miles). n Masarykovo the resting place of 27 members
Church of the Assumption of nmst 103. Tel 384 721 169. of the Schwarzenberg family.
the Virgin Mary (Nanebevzet www.mesto-trebon.cz
Panny Marie) has some P Schwarzenberg
valuable frescoes; the Church Situated among hills and fish Mausoleum
of St John the Baptist (sv. ponds, Tebo (Wittingau) # AprOct: TueSun.
Jana Ktitele) features an has a tiny medieval centre
interesting vault above the dominated by a huge castle; it
presbytery. is also a spa town. It was Nov Hrady q
founded in the 12th century,
Environs and the Romberk family Road map B3. * 2,600. 5 km
The imposing ruins of took over during the 14th (3 miles). n Nmst Republiky 46.
Landtejn Castle lie 9 km (6 century. During their rule it Tel 386 362 195. www.novehrady.cz
miles) east of Slavonice. It reached the peak of its
was built in the early 13th glory, with To the east of the town
century, modelled on German exceptionally fast square stands the
or Austrian fortresses. The economic Church of St Peter
ground floor of one of its development. The and St Paul (sv. Petr
Romberks funded a Pavel), which has
the development of a magnificent
local fish ponds into presbytery vault and
more formal fish monumental Baroque
farming, a system of furnishings dating
6,000 ponds that Coat of arms from from the late 17th
remain productive Nov Hrady century. Nearby is the
today. Empire-style palace
The main square, built in 180110 for the
Masarykovo nmst, is lined Buquoy family.
with Renaissance and The 13th-century Castle
Baroque houses; in the was built to guard the trading
square stand a Renaissance route between Bohemia and
ten-sided fountain and a 1781 Austria. Damaged, first during
Marian column. The Hussite wars and again by a
Renaissance town hall has a gunpowder explosion in 1537
faade with three semi- and then the earthquake of
circular arcades and a 31-m 1605, it was given its present
(100-ft) high tower added in Baroque form in the 18th
Sgraffito-decorated house in the 17th century. To the east, century. The entrance to the
Slavonice the square ends with a 1527 castle leads over a bridge that
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 147

the next century, when Peter

Parler was invited to help
with its construction. The
damage inflicted by the
Hussite army in 1422 was soon
repaired due to the monasterys
effective fortifications.
During the 17th and 18th
centuries new Baroque build-
ings were added to the older
parts of the church. The Com-
munists closed the monastery
in 1950, imprisoning the
monks. Since the 1990s it
has been undergoing major
renovation work.
Entrance to the 13th-century Nov Hrady Castle The most beautiful room is
the Chapter House dating
spans the deep brick-lined porcelain and furniture, and from 12851300, its vaulted
moat, the largest moat in the there is a marvellous frescoed ceiling supported by a single
Czech Republic. Banquet Hall. column. Also very impressive
is the Rococo library, entered
+ Nov Hrady Castle Environs by a hidden door, decorated
Tel 386 362 135. # AprJun, Sep: On the border with Austria with frescoes and topped
TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily. & 8 8 km (5 miles) to the east with a ceiling adorned with
is the small town of Doln gold leaf. It houses 70,000
Dvoit. The church of St volumes. Inside the Church of
Environs Giles (sv. Jilj) here is the the Assumption of the Virgin
umberk, 6 km (4 miles) west prime example of the South Mary (Nanebevzet Panny
of Nov Hrady, is worth a short Bohemian Gothic style, Marie), the aisles and the
detour for its late 15th-century featuring magnificent net- church sacristy have beautiful
Gothic fortress and the unusual vaulting over the presbytery Gothic vaults. The main altar-
four-aisle church built in 1455 and all the aisles. piece dates from 164446.
and featuring a lovely vault To the north, west and The works of art found in
resting on six slender columns. south of Doln Dvoit there the monastery are of the high-
are remains of the horse- est quality; they include the
drawn train lines that once Crucifixion by the Master of
Romberk nad linked esk Budjovice with Vy Brod, which was returned
Vltavou Castle w Linz. Built in 182531, it was to the Cistercians by the
the first railway of its kind in National Museum in Prague.
Road map B3. 4 km (2 miles). Continental Europe. The total The outer buildings of the
Tel 380 749 838. # Oct: 9am route was 131 km (81 miles) monastery now house a Postal
4:15pm Sat & Sun; Apr, Sep: long, and the journey took 14 Museum (Potovn muzeum)
9am4:15pm TueSun; JunAug: hours. The most numerous devoted to the history of mail
9am5:45pm TueSun. & 8 fragments of the railway delivery in the Czech Republic
(embankments, pillars, bridges) since 1526, including uniforms
The 13th-century fortified can be seen near the village and post coaches.
estate of the powerful Rom- of Suchodol, 2 km (1 mile) to
berk family towers on a hill- the north of Doln Dvoit.
top above the tiny village at its
base. The Romberks used it
as a base for running their
Vy Brod
estates in the region from the Monastery e
13th to the 17th century. It
consists of the Upper Castle, Road map B3. from esk
the only remains of which are Budjovice. @ from esk Krumlov.
now the Jacobean Tower, Tel 380 746 674. # MaySep:
closed to visitors; and the 9:3011:30am, 12:305pm TueSat,
Lower Castle, originally Gothic 12:305pm Sun; OctApr: by appt.
and in the 16th century & 8 Postal Museum # Apr
remodelled in the Renaissance Oct: 9am5pm TueSun; NovMar:
style. In 184057 the then by appt. &
owners, the Buquoy family,
renovated the castle, giving it In the mid-13th century the
its English Neo-Gothic features. Romberk family founded a
Inside are displayed Cistercian monastery here.
collections of precious The completion of the entire Entrance to the Cistercian
glass, paintings, weapons, complex took the whole of Monastery in Vy Brod
148 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

A Tour of the umava r

The umava mountains (see also pp15051)

form a natural border between the Czech
Republic, Germany and Austria. This is the
largest forested area in Central Europe at 120
km (75 miles) long and up to 45 km (28 miles)
wide. The unspoilt Boubn Virgin Forest has
been a reserve since 1858. Nearby, some of
the densest woodland makes up the umava
National Park (see also p166). The whole area,
preserved in part due to a period during the Velhartice 9
Cold War when it was closed off, was The castle at Velhartice, now a ruin, was
made a UNESCO biosphere reserve built in the late 13th and early 14th
century. The four-span stone
in 1990. The umava offers superb  bridge was erected in
trekking, canoeing and cycling. +LATOVY about 1430 (see
3TRAKONICE
also p166).



 

M
FT
VA
/TA
3UICE



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FT 
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FT 3TRAKONICE
/TA 
VA +APERSK(ORY 
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Rab 8 
The Czech Republics M  M
FT  FT
largest medieval fortress, 
Rab is made up of Gothic ruins 6IMPERK
dominated by a square tower that 

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offers a great viewpoint (see also p157). FT 
6."7"   #06#/


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Srn 7
The pretty village of Srn has a couple of pleasant 0ASSAU
places to stay. The village, surrounded by forests
and meadows, makes a good base for trekking,
mountain biking and, in winter, skiing.

KEY
Kvilda 6
Tour route
The highest altitude parish in
Other scenic routes the Czech Republic (1,065 m/
3,495 ft above sea level),
Other roads
Kvilda is a quiet winter
Viewpoint sports centre in an area of
peat bogs.
International border

For additional map symbols see back flap

 S O U T H B O H E M I A 149

TIPS FOR DRIVERS

Length: 190 km (118 miles).
Many side roads do not allow cars.
There are six bus routes that
provide transport in the region.
Stopping-off points: Hotels,
pensions and hostels are in many
towns; camp sites are numerous.

Volary 5
The town of Volary has some 20 Schwarzenberg Canal 4
original wooden houses, built by Close to the hamlet of Jeleni
Tyrol farmers who settled here in vrchy is a 429-m (1,407-ft)
the 16th century. It is also a long underground tunnel, a
gateway to Boubn. A single-track fragment of the 1789
train service links Volary with Schwarzenberg Canal linking
esk Budjovice. the Vltava with the Danube.

Lake Lipno 3
The man-made water reservoir, Lipno, built
in 195059, is often referred to as the South
Bohemian Sea. Ferries cross regularly, and
it offers excellent facilities for sport and
recreation, attracting many local visitors.

0 km 10

0 miles 10
0SEK

0RACHATICE


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- 



M Romberk nad Vltavou 2

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"UDJOVICE The castle, perched high above the
Vltava river valley, was the home
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 Klet Mountain 1

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 forest area. On top is a

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the oldest in the Czech


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FT M
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Republic, built in 1825.
FT There is a chairlift to the
M
FT 6Y"ROD top, and in fine weather it
,INZ
offers views of the Alps.

,INZ A stream flowing through part of the Sumava mountains

152 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

esk Krumlov t example of stonemasonry

dating from about 1500. The
An astonishingly beautiful and well-preserved small Early Baroque high altar,
medieval town, esk Krumlov (Krumau) is one of the made in 167383, has
most visited in the Czech Republic. Founded in the 13th paintings depicting St Vitus
century, it belonged to the Romberk dynasty from 1302 and the coronation of the
Virgin Mary. The Late Gothic
to 1602. The family crest of a five-petalled red rose is porch has an unusual vault in
one of the most often seen motifs in esk Krumlov. the shape of octagonal stars.
The Eggenbergs held sway for 100 years, then the Gothic wall paintings dating
Schwarzenbergs took over from 1719 to 1947. In 1992 it from 1430 can be seen on the
was added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List. north wall of the side aisle
(The Crucifixion, St Veronica,
Exploring the town P Nmst Svornosti St Elizabeth with a beggar,
The historic town centre is The most imposing building Mary Magdalene, St Katherine
situated on the rocky banks of in the market square, nmst and St Bartholomew). The
the sharply meandering Vltava. Svornosti, is the town hall. church once housed the
The Inner Town (Vnitn Occupying a corner site famous Krumlov Madonna of
Msto), with its market on the north side, it 1393, regarded by many as
square, town hall was created in the the finest example of the
and St Vituss mid-16th century International Gothic style,
Church, is located by combining two now kept in the Art History
on the right bank, Gothic houses. Museum, Vienna. Its 15th-
in an area enclosed The Marian plague century replica can be seen in
on three sides by column at the the National Gallery, Prague.
water. The left side centre of the
meander features the square was erected
castle and the village in 1716 as a thanks-
called Latrn. The Coat of arms on giving for sparing the
town centre is a the town hall town from the Black
pedestrian zone. Death in 1682.
Matthus Jckel, a Prague
E Egon Schiele Centrum sculptor, placed a statue of
irok 71. Tel 380 704 011. the Madonna at the top, and
# 10am6pm TueSun. & = - at the foot of the column, in
7 www.schieleartcentrum.cz one of the niches, a figure of
A former brewery building not St Roch, the saint invoked for
far from the market square protection against plague.
now houses a gallery devoted
to Austrian artist Egon Schiele R Church of St Vitus
(18901918), who lived in St Vituss Church (sv. Vta)
esk Krumlov in 1911. On provides a visual counter-
display are watercolours and balance to the lofty tower of
drawings, including several the castle. Dating from the The imposing nave of the Church
famous male and female early 15th century, and built of St Vitus
nudes, which in Schieles day on the site of an earlier
caused a scandal. He was church, this triple-aisled P Ulice Horn
driven out of the town for Gothic edifice features one of Regional Museum # MaySep:
employing young local girls the oldest examples of net 10am5pm daily (Jul, Aug to 6pm);
to pose for him. There are vaulting in Europe. The Oct, Apr: 9am4pm TueFri; 14pm
other temporary exhibitions sanctuary by the north wall of Sat, Sun.
of contemporary works. the presbytery is a splendid Horn street, off the market
square, was once terminated
by a town gate, demolished
in 1839. At No. 159 is the
Chaplaincy (Kaplanka) dating
from 151420, with a Gothic
gable and Renaissance win-
dow jambs. At No. 155 is the
former Prelature built in the
14th century and remodelled
several times since. Adjoining
it is the former Jesuit College
(No. 154), designed by
Baldassare Maggi and now a
hotel. At No. 152, the Regional
Museum includes a scale
Part of the faade of the former Jesuit College in Ulice Horn model of the town in 1800.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 E S K K R U M L O V 153

+ Krumlov Castle VISITORS CHECKLIST

Zmek 59. Tel 380 704 711. # Apr
Oct: 9am5pm TueSun (JunAug: Road map B3. * 13,800.
to 6pm). & 8 2 routes. - 1 km (0.5 mile) N of Krumlov
Perched high up on a rock, Castle. @ n Nmst
the castle is the second only Svornosti 2. Tel 380 704 622.
to Prague Castle in terms of www.ckrumlov.info _ Five-
its size. The oldest part of this Petalled Rose Celebration: mid-
sprawling complex is Doln Jun; International Music Festival:
Hrad, also known as Hrdek, mid-JulAug.
with a tall, cylindrical tower
painted in colourful designs,
built in 1580. decorated with some extra-
The castle has a total of 300 ordinary trompe-loeil paintings
rooms. The most beautiful are depicting carnival scenes.
the stately Romberk Rooms A spectacular 17th-century
with wooden vaults and tiered bridge (Pltovy most),
Renaissance wall frescoes, complete with statues, links the
The arcaded bridge linking completed in 1576 under the Upper Castle with its Theatre.
Krumlov Castle with its Theatre patronage of Vilm Romberk.
Particularly unusual is the Hall F Castle Theatre
P Latrn of Masks, which is vividly See pp1545.
The old quarter of Latrn was
once a village inhabited by
craftsmen and merchants,
who provided services for the
castle. It is linked to the Inner
Town by a bridge over the
Vltava. Still remaining is a
complex of late-Gothic and
Baroque buildings including
the Minorite monastery, the
Convent of the Poor Clares
and a church. The entire
complex was linked with the
castle by a covered walkway
running over Latrn. Close by
is the Renaissance Budjovice
gate, the only one left of the
original eight town gates. Entrance to the Minorite Monastery in Latrn

Train Station
1 km (0.6 miles)
ESK KRUMLOV
TOWN CENTRE Budjovice
Gate
Castle Theatre 7
LAT RN

Church of St Vitus 3
Egon Schiele
Centrum 2 Convent of the
Poor Clares
Krumlov Castle 6
Latrn 5 Krumlov
Castle Castle
Nmst Svornosti 1 Theatre
Z MEK Brewery
L AT R N
Ulice Horn 4
L A T R N NOV M S TO
D LO U H
NICK

0 metres 100
I ROK

M
NI
AS

IC

V
N
DN
S OU K E

O
RA

0 yards 100 Town Hall PA Vltava K

RYB

R KN D
Egon Schiele J Bus
NMST Regional B
Centrum O station
SK

SVORNOSTI Museum
H O RN
KA
VNITN

PL
CK
MSTO Church of
St Vitus

L IN E
Key to Symbols see back flap CK
154 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

esk Krumlov: Castle Theatre

The Baroque theatre (Zmeck divadlo)
in Krumlov Castle is virtually unique in
that its interior, furnishings, stage
settings, costumes and stage machinery
are so numerous and so well preserved.
It was rebuilt on the site of a previous
theatre in 1766 to a commission by
Prince Josef Adam Schwarzenberg. The
scene-shifting machinery was
constructed by Lorenz Makh from
Vienna. Following a 30-year . Painted Ceiling
refurbishment in the 20th century, the The ceiling mural above the
theatre offers a fascinating glimpse of 18th- auditorium and wall paint-
century theatrical life. ings were by Viennese
artists Leo Mrkl
Costumes and Hans
The theatre wardrobes Wetschel.
house 540 original
costumes for men,
women and children.

A theatre
building was
built in 1682
by Prince
Johann
Christian
Eggenberg,
under the supervision
of the Italian builders G A
de Maggi and G M Spinetti.

Wind Machine
The sound of wind
was simulated by
Sundial turning a revolving
A sundial adorns the Renaissance drum, loosely covered
House, which, since the building with a linen cloth.
of the new theatre, now houses
wardrobes, laundries and stables.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 E S K K R U M L O V 155

Stage Scenery VISITORS CHECKLIST

Among the surviving scenery
are 13 complete typical stage esk Krumlov Castle, fifth
courtyard. Theatre Tel 380 704
sets including 11 backcloths,
721. Fax 380 704 710.
40 ceilings, 100 props, 50 # MayOct: 10am4pm (every
machines for creating special hour, last adm 3pm) TueSun.
effects and 250 wings. & 8 (compulsory).
www.ckrumlov.cz

. Stage
This setting represents a military
camp; other preserved sets include a
forest, a town, a prison, a garden, a
harbour, a cathedral and a
colonnaded hall.

Pltov most (bridge), linking the

theatre with the castle, was
built in 1691.

Auditorium
Rising wooden benches are
provided for the audience, and
the centre of the circle has a
comfortable royal box. The
auditorium would have been lit by
chandeliers with oil lamps.

Scene-shifting Machinery
A sophisticated system of
ropes and pulleys, which
still works well, allowed
for fast shifting of the
STAR FEATURES wings. The same device
. Painted Ceiling or a similar one controlled
Remains of the Late Gothic the lifting and lowering of
. Stage fortified walls of the castle. the backcloth, the ceiling
and the curtain.
156 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Zlat Koruna
Monastery y
Road map B3. @ from Prague or
esk Budjovice. Tel 380 743 126.
# AprOct: 9am5pm TueSun (Apr,
May: to 4pm). & 8
Founded in 1263 by Pemysl
Otakar II, this Cistercian
monastery has at its centre a
courtyard surrounded by
cloisters. Adjoining is the
Church of the Assumption
with a pentagonal presbytery
dating from about 1500. The
main altarpiece is a magnifi-
cent example of monumental
Rococo architecture.
The Chapterhouse, built in
12801300, features vaulting
supported by two Gothic
columns. The Chapel of the
Guardian Angels, at the
southern end of the
monastery grounds, is a
beautiful two-storey church
from the late 13th century,
featuring the original rib Intricate vaulting in the Chapterhouse at Zlat Koruna Monastery
vaulting on both levels.
Another building houses a farmsteads as well as a pub Prachatice i
Museum of South Bohemian represent the architectural
Literature (Pamtnk style known as Folk Baroque, Road map B3. * 11,700. from
psemnictv jinch ech). found only in this part of esk Budjovice. @ from Prague.
Bohemia, and are character- n Velk nmst 1. Tel 388 607 574.
ized by colourful faades with _ Gold Trail Festival: mid-Jun.
Holaovice u white stucco ornamentation.
The gables differ from house The towns tiny centre is
Road map B3. 15 km (9 miles) W of to house. Most of them face surrounded by a ring of
esk Budjovice. * 335. @ from the central square and pond, defensive walls, with a mighty
esk Budjovice. 387 982 145. and have an entrance gate entrance gate. It was a key
leading to a yard. Larger home- point along the salt trade route
This picturesque village steads have brick granaries into Bohemia. The lovingly
contains a splendidly resembling small fortresses. restored town square (Velk
preserved set of early 19th- Providing an enchanting nmst) has a 17th-century
century historic buildings glimpse of traditional rural Old Town Hall (Star radnice),
grouped around a central fish life, this tiny village was its faade decorated with
pond, which is used jointly by declared a UNESCO World sgraffito. Many buildings are
all the inhabitants. Nowhere Cultural and Natural Heritage covered with sgraffito; No. 31
else is such a collection of Site in 1998. Holaovice was has the finest, of the Last
buildings found in its original the setting for the 1932 film Supper (1563). The Church of
setting. The stone buildings version of The Bartered Bride St James (sv. Jakuba) has
including both homes and by Bedich Smetana. magnificent net vaulting.

Folk Baroque buildings overlooking the fish pond in the village of Holaovice

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35052 and pp38082
 S O U T H B O H E M I A 157

Strakonice o Psek p castle, has an exhibition on the

towns history, including 20th-
Road map B3. * 23,500. Road map B3. * 30,000. century upheavals, and the
from Plze. @ from from Tbor. @ from regions natural environment.
Prague. n Velk nmst Prague. n Heydukova 97.
2. Tel 383 700 700. E Prchesk Museum
Tel 382 213 592.
Velk nmst 114. Tel 382 201
_ International Bagpipe www.icpisek.cz
111. # MarDec: TueSun. &
Festival: mid-Aug.
www.strakonice.net On the Otava river,
Psek was at the
In the 19th
century, Strakonice
centre of a gold-
panning region and is
Zvkov Castle a

was a textile named after the sand Road map B3. @ from Psek to
manufacturing town from which gold is Zvkovsk Podhrad, 1.5 km (1 mile).
and centre of the separated. Pemysl Tel 382 285 676. # Apr, Oct:
woollen industry. It Otakar II founded the 9:30am3:30pm Sat & Sun; JunAug:
became most famous town in the 13th 9am5pm TueSun; May, Sep:
for making fezzes. century. Its main 9:30am4pm TueSun. &
At one point nearly Statue of St Barbara in draw today, the
5 million a year the Regional Museum medieval bridge, Originally built on the Vltava
were being export- in Strakonice Castle survives from that river, Zvkov now overlooks
ed to Turkey, time, making it the artificial lake that has
India, Arabia and Egypt. Also older than Pragues Charles resulted from the Orlk dam
made here are Czech bagpipes Bridge (see pp689). It has downstream. Zvkov was
(dudy); the International several statues of saints, built in the reign of Pemysl
Bagpipe Festival every August including St John Nepomuk. Otakar II in the mid-13th
attracts large numbers of The fascinating Prchesk century, and during the Thirty
bagpipe enthusiasts. Museum, in the former royal Years War it became the final
Situated at the confluence stronghold of the Protestant
of the Otava and Volyka army in South Bohemia. The
rivers, Strakonice has a 13th- oldest part of the castle is its
century Castle, one of the mighty keep. The royal
oldest stone buildings in the palace has an interesting
Czech Republic. Until 1694 chapel of St Wenceslas with
this was the headquarters of lovely medieval frescoes on
the Knights of St John in the first floor.
Bohemia. The castle still
features original Gothic Environs
details, which can also be The Neo-Gothic Orlk Palace,
seen in the cloisters and 14 km (9 miles) north of
porch of the adjacent Church Zvkov, belongs to the
of St Procopius (sv. Prokop). Schwarzenberg family, and its
The Regional Museum in the historic interiors illustrate this
castle has displays of fezzes, prominent familys history.
bagpipes and motorcycles
(also made in the town). + Orlk Palace
Tel 382 275 101. # AprOct:
In the town itself, the main Gothic entrance gate to the castle
TueSun.
square (Velk nmst) has a in Zvkov
couple of beautifully deco-
rated buildings: the town hall
(radnice) and a savings bank. ST JOHN NEPOMUK
Jan of Pomuk, known as John Nepomuk,
+ Strakonice Castle and was from 1389 the vicar-general of the
Regional Museum Prague Archbishopric. In 1393, on the
Tel 383 321 537. # MayOct: orders of Wenceslas IV, he was im-
TueSun. & 8 prisoned, tortured and then drowned
in the Vltava. Later sources claim that
Environs he was murdered for refusing to reveal
About 20 km (12 miles) west the secret of the queens confession.
of Strakonice, Rabi fortress Canonized in 1729, John Nepomuk
(see also p148), built in the became a phenomenon of the Baroque
early 14th century, became a period. Because he is regarded as the
target of Hussite army attacks patron saint of good reputation and
in 1420. After a long siege it bridges, and guardian against floods,
was captured by the troops of countless statues of the saint were placed
Jan ika (see pp367), who by bridges. His was the first statue on
is thought to have been Pragues Charles Bridge (see p69).
blinded in one eye here.
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 159

WEST BOHEMIA

T
his border region, strongly affected by its proximity to German
neighbours, attracts visitors for its natural beauty, its spa
resorts, and, not least, its excellent beer. Fortresses on the
frontiers of the former Pemyslid state are reminders of its distant past; its
more recent past can be seen in the areas from which, after World War
II, many Germans were expelled, leaving traces of their long presence.
Some of the most (Franzensbad) played a signi-
interesting historic ficant role in European
sites of West Bohemia history. Their habitus
(Zpadn echy) include were the rich and
the structures that were influential from the
built to defend the Kingdom worlds of politics and
of Bohemia; they include the culture, including Goethe,
castles of Pimda, Velhartice and G o g o l , C h o p i n , Wa g n e r,
vihov, as well as a number of Russian Emperor Peter the Great,
smaller fortresses scattered along the British King Edward VII and Austrian
foothills of the umava mountains. Emperor Franz Josef I.
Several magnificent monasteries, Yet the attractions of West Bohemia
including Kladruby, Plasy and Tepl, are not limited to historic relics. Its
are truly outstanding sights. Founded capital, Plze, is a flourishing
in the Middle Ages these Gothic industrial centre, the home of Pilsner
centres of monastic life were beer. The town of Domalice near
remodelled during the Baroque era the German border retains aspects of
and now provide excellent examples Slav folk culture. The region also
of the art that was intended to serve offers intriguing natural phenomena
the ideas of Counter-Reformation. at Soos a strange landscape of
The famous spa resorts of Karlovy small mud geysers and the
Vary (Karlsbad), Marinsk Lzn beautiful ern and ertovo lakes
(Marienbad) and Frantikovy Lzn near the umava mountains.

Faade of the sanatorium (Bath V) overlooking Smetana Park in Karlovy Vary

Statue of the Plze Madonna on the high altar of the Church of St Bartholomew, Plze
160 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring West Bohemia

The regions capital and its biggest town, Plze,
is an interesting place to visit and
gives a flavour of the region. It
is also the home of the world-
renowned beer (see p167). The ry
main tourist attractions of West Ho
Bohemia are its spa resorts of Kraslice
n
Karlovy Vary and Marinsk
Lzn. Monasteries are another
Plauen
ru Nejdek
K
highlight (see pp1767), and
there are numerous small A KARLOVY VARY
picturesque towns. The large SOOS NATURE LOKET
forested areas of esk and CHLUM
RESERVE SV. M Sokolov
Slavkovsk Les form a backdrop
to a number of the towns and offer FRANTIKOVY
KARLOVARSK
many kilometres of hiking and LZN
Kynperk k
cycling trails, and, in winter, nad Oh ov s
CHEB vk Beov
excellent skiing facilities. Sla les nad Teplou

LZN
KYNVART
MARINSK
LZN

Plan

Tachov
M
e
es
k

Bor
Rozvadov
PIMDA
CASTLE
les

The monumental columns of the Mill Spring Colonnade

in Karlovy Vary Vidice
Nuremberg
Bl nad
Radbuzou
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE SEE ALSO
HOROVSK TN
ern Lake 5 Where to Stay pp3523
Cheb w
Where to Eat pp3823
Chlum sv. M t
Domalice 6
DOMALICE
Frantikovy Lzn e
Horovsk Tn 7
Karlovy Vary pp1745 u
Klatovy 3
Regensburg
Lzn Kynvart q
Loket y
Mantn i
Marinsk Lzn 0
Plze pp1625 1
Pimda Castle 9
Soos Nature Reserve r
Stbro 8
vihov Castle 2 Coat of arms from the palace
Velhartice Castle 4 in Lzn Kynvart

For additional map symbols see back flap

 W E S T B O H E M I A 161

Chemnitz

Jchymov
Chomutov

Ostrov
k
vs
po

O h e
Dou

View of the monastery buildings in Plasy

KRAJ Kladno
0 km 10 KEY
Stela 0 miles 10 Motorway

Main road
Touim
Minor road
Bezvrov Main railway

MANTN Minor railway

Kralovice
International border
tipoklasy Stela Regional border
Plasy
ka
Beroun

Prague
Radnice

Temon

STBRO
Kladruby PLZE
Rokycany
Star Plzenec

PLZESK KRAJ
Stod Splen
Petice Po

Stakov
lava

uz
a Blovice
Radb
h

Skaov
VIHOV CASTLE
Nepomuk
Psek
Kdyn
KLATOVY One of the Baroque
sculptures of saints
and apostles at the
Zavlekov palace in Mantn

Nrsko
Kolinec
VELHARTICE GETTING AROUND
CASTLE West Bohemia is crosscut by one of the countrys main
Suice
u transport arteries the D5 motorway (international E50
ERN m route), linking Prague with the German city of Nuremberg.
LAKE pik a Plze has good road and rail links with many towns of the
va
region, and buses and trains run between most towns, but
elen Ruda
always check the frequency of weekend services. Severe
weather can hamper winter travel.
162 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Plze 1 u Great Synagogue

Sady Ptatictnk 11. Tel 377 235
The large and bustling capital of West Bohemia, Plze 749. # AprOct: 10am6pm
(Pilsen) has two main industries that contribute to its SunFri. Jewish religious festivals.
vibrant atmosphere. It is mainly associated with beer, The Great Synagogue (Velk
producing Pilsner Urquell (Plzesk Prazdroj) in the synagoga) is the worlds
third-largest Jewish sacred
brewery founded here in 1842 (see p167). Since the building, after the Jerusalem
late 19th century a large koda factory in the city has and Budapest synagogues. It
made armaments as well as cars. The city was established was built in the 1890s, funded
in 1295 by Wenceslas II, at the crossroads of the main by voluntary donations from
trading routes between Bohemia, Bavaria and Saxony. the Plze Jewish community.
Its architect, Rudolf tech,
striking are the Red Heart designed it in a romantic
House (U cerveneho srdce), Moorish-Romanesque style.
built in 1894 and sporting It could accommodate 2,000
magnificent sgraffito by Czech worshippers, and in addition,
painter Mikul Ale, of two the high balcony, intended
mounted knights in full for women, could take up to
tournament gear; and the 800. Following World War II
Baroque Bishoprie building the building and its
(Biskupstv) on the west side. furnishings, including the
A market is held in the square unique organ located above
during festivals. the Torah, suffered gradual
deterioration. In 1998 the
R Church of St synagogue was reopened
Bartholomew after careful restoration.
See pp1645.

P Town Hall
Nmst Republiky. # 8am6pm daily.
The Renaissance town hall
Plague Column on Nmst (star radnice), one of the
Republiky loveliest buildings of its kind
in Bohemia, was designed by
Exploring the City Italian architect Giovanni de
The majority of Plzes historic Statio. This four-storey edifice
sites are found on the left bank with its magnificent gables
of the Radbuza river. The was built in 155459. The
historic centre, laid out in a interesting sgraffito deco-
grid pattern, is sur- rations on the faade are the
rounded by Plzeske work of J Koul, produced
sady a green belt during 190712. Standing in
created on the site front of the town hall is a
of the old town Plague Column, erected in
walls in the 19th 1681 in thanksgiving for the
century. On the fact that the plague Twin towers with onion domes of
opposite eastern side epidemic suffered at that the Great Synagogue
of the Radbuza is time was only mild.
Pilsner Urquell F Tyl Theatre
brewery, the P Csask dm Smetanovy sady 16. Tel 378 038 070.
Prazdroj. Nmst Republiky 41. www.djkt-plzen.cz
An imposing Plzes theatre (Divadlo J K
P Nmst Renaissance edifice Tyla) is named after Josef
Republiky to the left of the Kajetan Tyl, Czech playwright
Nmst Republiky is town hall, dating and novelist, and a champion
one of the largest market from 1606, twice of national culture in the 19th
squares in the country, played host to century. This striking Neo-
measuring 139 x 193 m Emperor Rudolph II. Classical-style building was
(456 x 633 ft). Standing Now it houses the erected in 1902 and, just like
at its centre is the Church tourist information the National Theatre in Prague,
of St Bartholomew. office. The next door its design was intended to
The square is fringed Pechltovsk dm symbolize and reinforce Czech
by a number of was created by com- patriotism. The figures on the
beautifully decorated bining two smaller, faade are allegories of Opera
houses, with the best- Renaissance build- and Drama. The beautiful
preserved along the A statue on ings and adding a stage curtain was painted by
south side. Particularly Cisask dm Neo-Classical faade. Augustin Njmece.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 P L Z E 163

E West Bohemian VISITORS CHECKLIST

Museum
Kopeckho sady 2. Tel 377 Road map A3. * 180,000.
329 380. # 10am6pm 1 km (0.5 mile) SE of centre.
TueSun. & www.zcm.cz @ 1 km (0.5 mile) W of centre.
This large museum n Nmst Republiky 41.
(Zpadoesk muzeum) Tel 378 035 330. # 9am7pm
is a Neo-Baroque daily (to 6pm OctMay).
building with an Art www.pilsen.eu _ Beer Festival
Nouveau interior (early Oct). ( During festivals.
dating from 1898. Take
time to look at the
reliefs on the staircase work of architect H Zapala.
and the Art Nouveau The attractions here besides
library furnishings. tasting Plzesk Prazdroj
Exhibits include Charles (Pilsner Urquell) beer include
IVs armoury, and a the chance to explore its 10-
beautiful glass and por- km (6-mile) long cellars, used
celain collection in the from 1838 until 1930 to store
vast, stately Jubilee Hall. the fermenting brew (see p167).
Frescoes in the Franciscan Monastery Chapel
E Brewing Museum
R Franciscan Monastery and Veleslavnova 6. Tel 377 235 574.
Church of the Assumption # JanMar: 10am5pm daily;
Frantiknsk. AprDec: 10am6pm daily.
The early Gothic monastery Appropriately housed in an
is one of the towns oldest old malt house, this museum
buildings. Off the lovely (Pivovarsk muzeum) traces
cloisters is the 13th-century the history of brewing in
Chapel of St Barbara, with a Plze, with a fascinating
stellar vault supported by a range of beer-related exhibits.
single column; the chapel is
decorated with frescoes from P Pilsner Urquell Brewery
about 1460. The monasterys U Prazdroje 7. Tel 377 062 888.
Church of the Assumption has # AprSep: 8:30am6pm; OctMar:
a main altarpiece painting of 8:30am5pm. & 8
the Annunciation, a copy of www.pilsner-urquell.cz
Rubens work. The Gothic The opulent brewery (pvovar)
Madonna, below the painting, building, with its imposing Faade of the West Bohemian
is from the late 14th century. Empire-style gate, is a 1917 Museum

PLZE CITY CENTRE 0 metres 200

Brewing Museum 9
0 yards 200
Church of St Bartholomew 2
Csask dm 4
Me
Franciscan Monastery
TYR
K

and Church of the O VA

T N

KOVA

K N SK I-

Assumption 7
D O M IN
TC

SEDL

Great Synagogue 5 VE LE SL
AV N OV
A
Brewing Museum
TA

Nmst Republiky 1 Csask dm

Y P

SO LN Town Hall
Pilsner Urquell PR A S K
SAD

Church of St
T
Y

Brewery 0 Bartholomew
R

Great
O

Synagogue D EV N Pilsner Urquell

Town Hall 3
V

PR E O
A

VS K Brewery
NMST JE
Tyl Theatre 6 DRO
Tyl REPUBLIKY PRA AZ
SK PR
Theatre BE U
West Bohemian ZR U OV
A Franciscan Monastery and
Church of the Assumption
Museum 8 S West Bohemian .
ME B .
TA N Museum N B
Bus station OV ON
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400 m (440 yards) DY KO PE CKH O SADY SK
IC

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Ra
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AMERICK Train
station

Key to Symbols see back flap

164 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Cathedral of St Bartholomew
The Gothic Cathedral of St Bartholomew (Chrm
sv. Bartolomje) dominates Plze market square
from its position in the centre. Its 102-m (335-ft)
spire the tallest in Bohemia can be seen from
all over the city, and was used in the 19th century
by the imperial land surveyors in laying out
transport routes around Plze. Construction of the
church continued from the late 13th century until
1480. The Sternberg Chapel, adjoining the south
wall of the presbytery, is an early 16th-century
addition, featuring an unusual keystone at the
centre of the vault, and Renaissance paintings. . Cathedral Tower
Originally the
Sculptures in the Cathedral cathedral had two
The church houses a large towers. One collapsed
number of sculptures, when struck by
including the figures of lightning in 1525.
St Barbara, St
Katherine and St
Wenceslas seen on
the pillars of the This small
main nave. tower is over
the main
nave.

The tower has a

balcony at the top,
which is open to
the public.

Stained-Glass Windows
The magnificent
elongated stained-glass STAR FEATURES
windows in the aisles and
the presbytery, which . Cathedral Tower
provide the entire church
interior with beautiful . Plze Madonna
light, were fitted in the . Sternberg Chapel Main door
early 20th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 P L Z E 165

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Nmst Republiky 41.
Tel 728 308 761.
# AprSep: 10am4pm
WedSat. &
Tower # 10am6pm daily.
& www.pilsen.eu

. Plze Madonna
The statue of the Virgin Mary
Pulpit dating from about 1390, set at
The Gothic pulpit of sandstone, as the centre of the main altarpiece,
well as the magnificent traceried is an outstanding example of the
canopy above it, date from the same International Gothic style.
period as the rood arch figures, and
were made in about 1360.

The presbytery
was given its
present form in
around 1360.

Pendant Boss, Sternberg Chapel

In the vault of the chapel, this unusual
hanging keystone is a unique
Late Gothic detail.

. Sternberg Chapel
The Sternberg family
founded this chapel in
the early 16th century. It
has a beautiful altar
(right) and marvellous
Renaisssance paintings.

Rood Arch
Standing on the beam of
the rood arch are figures
in a Calvary scene. The
Entrance
crucifix was made in the
1470s by the Bohemian
Master of Plze.
166 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Black Tower (ern v), a Velhartice Castle 4

lofty stone structure in the
southwest corner of the town Road map A3. @ from Klatovy,
square (nmst Mru). Plze. Tel 376 583 315. # Apr, Oct:
Close by is the Baroque 9am4pm Sat, Sun; May, Sep: 9am
Jesuit Church (Jezuitsk 5pm TueSun; JunAug: 9am6pm
kostel), the work of Giovanni TueSun. www.hradvelhartice.cz
Orsi and Carlo Lurago, built
in 165575. It was renovated Between the towns of Klatovy
in 1717 by Karl Dientzenhofer, and Suice, the castle was
who is credited with designing built between 1290 and 1310
its magnificent doorway. on a rocky outcrop. It consisted
The interior includes valuable of two palace buildings
Baroque furnishings, furniture connected by a huge four-
Side tower of vihov Castle rising pieces and vivid trompe loeil span stone bridge the only
above the moat paintings. The fascinating one of its kind in Bohemia
catacombs beneath the church (see also p148). In the 18th
vihov Castle 2 century a Renaissance palace
was built next to the old one.
Road map A3. @ from Prague The castles most famous
or Plze. Tel 376 393 378. # May owner was Buek of Velhartice,
Sep: 9am5pm (to 4pm May, Sep) a secretary to Charles IV.
TueSun; Apr, Oct: 9am3pm Sat, Today, Velhartice is in ruins.
Sun & public hols. & 8 2 routes.
www.hradsvihov.cz
ern Lake 5
This beautifully preserved
Gothic castle, surrounded by Road map A3. from Plze to
water and meadows, has elezn Ruda.
provided a fairytale backdrop
for numerous films. Built in By the German border, at the
1480, it is a relatively recent northwest tip of the umava
castle for Bohemia. Following (see pp1489), lies a beautiful
the Thirty Years War it was glacial lake known as Black
condemned to demolition by Black Tower, town hall and Jesuit (ern) Lake. ertovo (Devils)
Ferdinand III, but its then church in Klatovy Lake is nearby. They are within
owners the Czernn family the National Park area, near the
successfully avoided carrying contain scores of mummified towns of pik and elezn
out the Emperors orders. The monks. The Baroque Ruda, and can be reached by
entire estate now includes Apothecary on the west of walking from pik station.
two palaces, a tower, and the the square has its original Black Lake is the largest, the
defence walls with four 17th-century interior lined with deepest (over 40 m/130 ft) and
bastions. The grand hall of bottles and jars of intriguing the lowest-lying lake on the
the south castle has a lovely ingredients. It was a working Bohemian side of the umava.
coffered ceiling. The 1515 pharmacy until the 1960s. Its name is believed by some
wall painting in the castle to derive from the reflection
P Catacombs
chapel, Saint George Slaying in its water of the dark forest
# Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun & public hols;
the Dragon, includes vihov MaySep: daily.
wall; others attribute it to the
in the background. dark silt on the bottom; others
P Baroque Apothecary put it down to the waters high
Tel 376 326 362. # MayOct: acidity, which prevents most
TueSun.
Klatovy 3 organisms from populating it.

Road map A3. * 23,000.

@ from Prague or Plze. n Nmst
Mru 63. Tel 376 347 240. www.
klatovy.cz

One of the richest towns in

Bohemia in the 15th century,
Klatovy was founded by
Pemysl Otakar II. In the
19th century, Klatovy achieved
international fame for its
carnations, grown from seeds
brought from Nancy in 1813.
The towns dominant
feature is the Renaissance The serene glacial waters of ern Lake

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 W E S T B O H E M I A 167

Pilsner Urquell
Pilsner beer, produced in Plze Radbuza in 1842 after a dozen or so
since 1842, is prized for its out- independent breweries were amalga-
standing clarity, golden colour and mated. Purpose-built, the brewery
transparency. The beer-making (see p163) was erected on sandy
tradition in Plze goes back to the soil, which made it easy to build
times of Wenceslas II, who granted tunnels and cellars. Word of the new
260 of the towns citizens a licence beer, Pilsner Urquell, quickly spread
to produce this golden liquid. Its around Europe, and it was widely
quality was poor, however, until imitated. Pilsner soon became the
the Plze brewery was estab- Bottle of Pilsner g e n e r i c n a m e f o r b e e r
lished on the banks of the Urquell produced by similar methods.

Cellars and
tunnels of the
brewery, some
10 km (6 miles)
long, are open to
the public. Here,
visitors can see
how the beer is
produced and
stored using
The information centre, the starting traditional
point for a visit, is in a modernized methods.
section of the old brewery.

In the vast
information centre
visitors can view the
unique equipment
and procedures of
beer-making which The label on the
are not used bottles containing
elsewhere in Europe. the original beer
includes at its
centre a picture of
the entrance gate.

The wooden casks containing beer are stored for three

months in the maze of long tunnels that were manually
dug under the brewery.

In the past the beer was The brewery entrance gate,

matured at low in the shape of a triumphal
temperatures, in oak or arch, was erected in 1892, the
beech barrels sealed 50th anniversary of the first
inside with resin. golden Pilsner being produced.
168 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Domalice 6 14th-century walls. Within a

tower that forms part of the
Road map A3. * 11,000. walls on Plzensk is a winery.
@ from Plze. n Nmst Mru 51. The late Gothic Church of
Tel 379 725 852. _ Chod Folk All Saints (Vech svatch) has
Festival: Aug. www.idomazlice.cz Baroque frescoes. The 1543
town hall (radnice) has a
This town, situated on an old faade with sgraffito gables.
trading route, has a long, The former Minorite
narrow town square (nmst Monastery, dissolved during
Mru), lined by gabled houses. the reforms of Joseph II, has
Dominating the square is the an exhibition on the history
leaning tower of the Gothic of silver- and lead-mining.
Church of the Nativity of the
Virgin Mary (Dkansk kostel R Minorite Monastery
Narozen Panny Marie). At 56 m Municipal Museum
(184 ft) tall, it offers a Tel 374 622 214. # JunSep: 9am
magnificent panorama from Gabled house in Domalice 4pm TueFri; 9am3pm Sat. &
its top. Inside the church are town square
Baroque frescoes.
The Castle, southwest of the Horovsk Tn 7 Environs
square, was once a fortified About 6 km (4 miles) south-
Gothic building. All that Road map A3. * 5,000. @ from east of Stbro, near the village
remains is the cylindrical Prague or Plze. n 5 Kvtna 50. of Kladruby, is Kladruby
tower and some 18th-century Tel 379 415 151. Monastery and Church (see
buildings, now housing the also pp1767). The 12th-cen-
Chod Museum (Muzeum The bishops of Prague used tury Benedictine monastery
Chodska), which traces the to own this town, which was founded by Vladislav
towns history. Domalice was has a square (nmst I, remodelled by Kilian
the base of the Chods, a Slav Republiky) of Ignaz Dientzenhofer,
group who guarded the Baroque houses and includes
border region. with lovely Gothic Baroque sculptures
There is more on the Chods doorways. In 1258 by Matthias Braun.
in the Jindich Jindich Museum Bishop Jan III of The monastery
outside the old town. Jindich Draice built a church of the
Jindich was a composer and fortified Gothic Assumption of the
collector of Chod folk items. Castle here. All that Virgin Mary (kostel
The display recreates a Chod remains is the west Nanebevzet Panny
cottage interior. wing and the chapel A figure from Marie) was the life-
in the south tower. Stbro winery time achievement of
+ Chod Castle and Museum This features beautiful Giovanni Santini,
Tel 379 776 009. # AprOct: daily; cross-vaulting supported by beautifully combining Gothic
NovMar: MonFri. & slender columns, an early and Baroque outside and in.
E Jindich Jindich Museum Gothic doorway and Renais-
Nmst svobody 67. Tel 379 722 sance wall paintings. In the R Kladruby Monastery
974. # JanApr, OctDec: MonFri; 16th century the castle was Tel 374 631 773. # JanMar & Nov,
MaySep: MonSat. transformed into a Renaissance Dec: by appt; Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun;
palace surrounded by a park. MaySep: TueSun. & 8 2 routes.
Inside is an interesting
exhibition on the life of the
nobility over the last 400 years. Pimda Castle 9
+ Horovsk Tn Castle Road map A3. @ from Bor.
Tel 379 423 111. # Apr, Oct:
Sat, Sun, public hols; MaySep:
Standing by the motorway to
TueSun; 26 Dec1 Jan: daily.
& 8 4 routes.
the Czech-German border
crossing in Rozvadov are the
ruins of Pimda the oldest
Stbro 8 stone castle in Bohemia. Built
in the Romanesque style in the
Road map A2. * 7,600. @ 12th century, it was for four
from Prague, Plze. 374 627 247. centuries one of the strong-
holds guarding the west of
The name Stbro means sil- the kingdom. Now its most
ver after the silver mines that imposing part is its massive
existed here from as early as keep, whose lower section,
Holy Trinity Chapel at Horovsk the 12th century. The town with its 4-m (13-ft) thick wall,
Tn Castle centre is partly flanked by was once used as a prison.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 W E S T B O H E M I A 169

Marinsk Lzn 0 Lzn Kynvart q Cheb w

Road map A2. * 14,000. Road map A2. * 1,600. @ Road map A2. * 32,000. @
@ from Prague. n Hlavn 47. from Prague, Plze, Cheb, Marinsk from Prague, Karlovy Vary, Marinsk
Tel 354 622 474. Lzn. Lzn. n Jatev 2. Tel 354 440
www.marianskelazne.cz 302. www.mestocheb.cz
_ Chopin Festival: Aug. Nestling in dense woodland,
the small town of Lzn Only 10 km (6 miles) from
Although the therapeutic Kynvart (Knigswart) com- the border with Germany,
powers of the local springs peted with Marinsk Lzn Cheb (Eger) is one of
were recognized in the 19th cen- Bohemias oldest towns. From
from the 16th tury in terms of the late 19th century on there
century, it was fame. It is now was resistance here to Czech
only in the a childrens spa. nationalism, as well as anti-
second half of The towns Semitic feeling. The town was
the 19th century best-known incorporated into the Third
that Marinsk historic site is the Reich in 1938; after the war,
Lzn (formerly Palace of Klemens most of its German popula-
Marienbad) became von Metternich tion was forcibly removed.
a European spa resort. the creator of the At the centre is the funnel-
Its guests at that time Holy Alliance and shaped market square (nmst
included Chopin, Mark from 1821 the all-pow- krle Jiho z Podbrad), with
Twain, Goethe, erful Chancellor of colourful 17th-century houses.
Freud, Kafka and Fresco on the colonnade Austria. This Neo- The palek, at its lower,
British King in Marinsk Lzn Classical residence, narrow end, consists of
Edward VII. built in 182033 11 medieval half-timbered
Today Marinsk Lzn has by Viennese architect Pietro German-Jewish merchant
a much quieter ambience, Nobile, houses a large houses. Also on the square is
very different from the assortment of furniture, the Cheb Museum (Chebsk
cosmopolitan bustle of paintings, sculpture, porcelain Muzeum) in the house where
Karlovy Vary (see pp1745), and other objects from Albrecht von Wallenstein was
and is open to all. Visitors Metternichs own collection. murdered (see p67).
have at their disposal about The park is one of the most The 13th-century Church
40 cold mineral water springs beautiful English-style of St Nicholas (sv. Mikule)
that are strongly saturated gardens in Bohemia. was given its Baroque
with natural carbon dioxide. Perched on top of a features by Balthazar
The mountain air remains wooded hill are the Gothic Neumann, a Cheb native.
refreshing, and there are ruins of Kynvart Castle, The Castle is Chebs oldest
plenty of walks here. which up to the Thirty Years site, built after 1167. Its ruins
The town has some fine War still served as a strategic include the Black Tower
historic buildings spectacularly defence structure. The New (ern v), and a beautiful
set on the wooded slopes. Baths, in the promenade of Romanesque chapel.
The most prominent is the the spa centre, occupy a Neo-
Neo-Baroque spa colonnade Gothic building built in 1863. E Cheb Museum
Tel 354 400 620. # NovMar:
(kolonda) built in 1889 of WedSun; AprOct: TueSun.
cast iron. At one end of this is + Kynvart Palace www.muzeumcheb.cz
the Cross spring (Kov Tel 354 691 424. # Feb, Mar, Nov,
pramen) in an 1818 Empire- Dec: by appt; Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun, + Cheb Castle
public hols; MaySep: TueSun. & Tel 354 422 942. # AprJun, Sep,
style pavilion. Behind the 8 www.kynzvart.cz Oct: TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily. &
colonnade is the octagonal
Neo-Byzantine Church of the
Assumption of the Virgin
Mary (Nanebevzet Panny
Marie). The Town Museum
(Mstsk muzeum), in the
house once inhabited by
Goethe, traces the spas
history. There is a small
Fryderyk Chopin Monument in
the building in which the
composer stayed.
E Town Museum
Goethovo Nmst 11. Tel 354 622
740. # MarDec: TueSun.
E Fryderyk Chopin Monument
Hlavn 47. Tel 354 622 617.
# AprOct: Tue, Thu, Sun. &
View of the Church of St Nicholas and the roofs of the old town in Cheb
172 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Frantikovy Lzn e Chlum sv. M t

Road map A2. * 5,200. @ Road map A2. 10 km (6 miles) E of
from Prague, Cheb. n Americk 2. Cheb (near Kynperk nad Ohi)
Tel 359 604 504. @ from Sokolov.
Tel 352 682 091.
The spa town of Frantikovy
Lzn (Franzensbad) was Chlum SV. M is one of
established in 1793, by the the most famous sites of the
decree of Emperor Franz I. Marian cult in Bohemia. The
The local spa waters and mud church that formerly stood on
baths became famous for their this site was plundered in the
effectiveness in the treatment 15th century by the Hussite
of heart, urinary tract, gynae- army, and demolished in
cological and rheumatic con- 1620 by the local Protestant
ditions. The streets are in a nobility. Built on its ruins in
compact grid layout around Mofettes in the Soos the late 17th century by
the main street, Nrodn, and Nature Reserve Christoph Dientzenhofer is
the buildings are Neo-Classical. the present imposing triple-
The town has successfully
resisted any industrial
Soos Nature aisled church. The Chapel of
Mercy, which also serves as
development and remains an Reserve r the church vestibule, features
oasis of greenery and calm. a late 13th-century Gothic
The symbol of Frantikovy Road map A2. 6 km (4 miles) NE of statue of the Virgin Mary,
Lzn is the statue of Frantiek, Cheb. Tel 354 542 033. famous for its miracles.
a naked boy with a fish. One # Mar, Nov: 10am4:30pm; Apr: The church has exception-
small highly polished part of 9am5pm; May, Jun: 9am6pm; ally lavish furnishings. All
the statue attests to the popular Jul, Aug: 9am6:30pm; Sep: of the vaulted ceilings,
belief that stroking it assists 9am5:30pm; Oct: including that of
conception. Amid the gardens, 9am4:30pm. & the dome, are
cafs and Neo-Classical build- The Soos nature covered with 17th-
ings is a rotunda over the reserve is a marshy century paintings
Frantikv pramen, a pavilion area of extraordi- by Johann Jakob
over the Glauber springs nary hot springs, Steinfels. The aisle
(Glauberovy prameny), an quite exceptional around the church
1882 music pavilion, and in this part of (the ambulatory),
the 1820 Church of the Holy Europe, and testify- with its colonnade
Cross (Poveni sv. Ke). ing to relatively opening onto the
recent volcanic courtyard, and
Environs activity. Established Statue of the Virgin the corner chapels,
Seeberg Castle, 5 km (3 miles) in 1964, the Mary, Chlum sv. M are by Giovanni
northwest of the town, is a reserve covers an Santini.
former Romanesque fortress area of 2 sq km (three-quar-
with lavishly furnished 19th- ters of a square mile). A spe-
century interiors. cial 1,200-m (4,000-ft) wooden
trail gives visitors a chance to
Loket y
+ Seeberg Castle gaze at the lunar landscape Road map A2. * 3,200. @ from
Tel 354 595 360.
full of bubbling gaseous Prague, Karlovy Vary. n T G
# MarNov: daily. &
springs called mofettes (or Masaryka 12. Tel 352 684 123.
bog volcanoes), as _ Loket Summer Cultural Festival:
well as some rare salt- late Jul. www.loket.cz
loving plants (halo-
phytes). The footpath The tiny town of Loket
leads along the bottom (Elbogen) lies in a rocky
of a dried lake with a crook of the Ohe River; its
yellow and white crust Czech and German names
of crystallized salt. The both mean elbow. The
local museum has an town, which just like esk
interesting exhibition Krumlov is washed around on
devoted to the regions three sides by running waters,
natural history, the is an exceptionally scenic
Soos hot springs and medieval settlement. For the
the Earths geological last two centuries it has been
history; also on display renowned for its fine
are numerous stuffed porcelain. The picturesque
animals. Tickets to the market square (nmst T G
reserve include admis- Masaryka) sports a plague
The rotunda of Frantikv pramen sion to the museum. column and numerous
Towers of the Gothic castle in Loket
 W E S T B O H E M I A 173

Mantn i
Road map A2. * 1,300. @ from
Prague, Plze.

The earliest records of the

town of Mantn date from
1169, when King Vladislav II
donated it to the Knights of St
John of Prague. It now has a
large collection of Baroque
sculpture, resembling a vast
open-air gallery.
Mantn Palace occupies
one entire side of the long
Houses and town hall in Loket market square market square. Built after 1712
to a design by Giovanni
interesting Gothic houses. It a tower two centuries later. Santini, it features an interest-
also features a graceful Early The state rooms and the large ing staircase decorated with
Baroque town hall (radnice) library have survived particu- allegories of the four elements.
built in 168296. It was larly well. The interiors and surroundings
thoroughly restored in 1989. Displayed in the palace have been decorated with 18th-
The Gothic castle has well- chapel is one of the most century sculptures produced
preserved towers, gates, walls precious ecclesiastical objects by local artists Josef Herscher
and keeps. In 1319 John of in Europe the Romanesque and tpn Boroviec. Their
Luxemburg used it to imprison reliquary of St Maurus, made figures of the saints and
his wife Elika of the Pemysl in the Benedictine monastery apostles stand on the terrace
family, and their three-year- in Florennes, in present-day before the palaces north
old son, Wenceslas, later Belgium. It was brought to faade, by the main routes
Emperor Charles IV. Bohemia in the 19th century, towards Plze, Netin and
The town was frequently by the then owner of Beov Rabtejn and on many further
visited by Goethe who in Alfred de Beaufort. Before the sites around the town. Among
1823, in the house called Bl end of World War II, the the sculptures are an image of
k on the main square, now a Beauforts, who collaborated the Holy Trinity, and figures
hotel (see p353), met for the with the Germans, left their of St John Nepomuk, St
last time with the great love home in a hurry, burying the Florentius, St Anne, St Joseph,
of his declining years, Ulrika reliquary, which is encrusted St Sebastian, St Donatus, and
von Levetzow. At that time he with gold, silver and precious the Archangel Michael.
was 74 years old; she was 19. stones, under the chapel floor. Works by Herscher and
She refused his marriage pro- Following long years of Boroviec can also be found
posal and died unmarried at searching it was found in 1985. in the Church of St John the
the age of 93. Baptist, linked with the palace
+ Beov Castle and Palace by a covered corridor, and in
+ Loket Castle Tel 353 999 394. # Jan, Feb, Dec: the Baroque Church of St
Tel 352 684 648. # daily. & by appt; Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun; May Barbara. There are also fine
www.hradloket.cz Sep: TueSun. & 8 2 routes. paintings by Petr Brandl the
www.zamek-becov.cz
Baptism of Christ in the first,
Environs and the Death of St Isidore
In Beov nad Teplou, 10 km Karlovy Vary u and the Killing of St Wenceslas
(6 miles) southeast of Loket, in the second church.
is a Castle and Palace complex, See pp1745. + Mantn Palace
a unique example of combin-
Tel 373 392 283. # 9am4pm
ing a medieval fortress with a
TueSun. & 8
Baroque residence. This majes-
www.zamek-manetin.cz
tic structure stands perched
on a high rock above the
Tepla river valley. Its oldest,
Gothic section, dating from the
first half of the 14th century,
has never been modified and
remains in its original state.
At the foot of the medieval
castle its successive owners
have made their own mark on
the castle, building a Renais-
sance residence in the 16th
century, and an octagonal,
domed Baroque palace with The castle in Beov nad Teplou

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
174 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Karlovy Vary u F Karlovy Vary Theatre

Divadeln nmst 21. Tel 353 225 801.
World-famous for its mineral springs, the town of The Karlovy Vary theatre
Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad) was founded by Charles IV in (Mstsk divadlo), built in
the mid-14th century. Legend has it that he discovered 188486, is the work of
it when one of his dogs fell into a hot spring (vary Viennese architects Ferdinand
Fellner and Hermann Helmer,
means hot spring) when out hunting. Since the 18th who designed many theatre
century the rich and famous have flocked here to take buildings all over Europe. It is
the waters. The town is also known for its china the worth stepping inside to see
first porcelain factory opened in the early 19th century the magnificent interior decor,
and for Moser glassware. which includes paintings by
Gustav Klimt, his brother
P Imperial Baths Ernst, and Franz Matsche. A
Marinskolzesk 2. collective work of all three
The imposing artists is the curtain, on which
Imperial Baths or they painted their joint self-
Kaiserbad (Lzn I), portrait. Following many
looking more like a years of reconstruction the
theatre than a medical theatre was opened again
establishment, was in 1999.
once the most opulent
building in Karlovy R Church of St Mary
Vary. Built in 18925, Magdalene
they feature a Kosteln nmst.
magnificent Neo- Dating from 1732, and among
Wooden Market Colonnade and castle tower Renaissance faade the best work of Kilian Ignaz
and Art Nouveau Dientzenhofer, this church
Exploring the town decorations, inside and out. (sv. M Magdalny) is one
The spa district of Karlovy of the finest examples of
Vary starts in T G Masaryka E Karlovy Vary Museum Baroque architecture in
Street, which runs into Nov Louka 23. Tel 353 226 252. Bohemia. The single-aisled
Zahradn; the spas continue # 9amnoon, 15pm WedSun. & church with an oval floor plan
south along the banks of the The museum, established in has an impressively spacious
Tepl river, in the valley 1853, has collections relat- interior with fine decor.
flanked on both sides by ing to the regions history The high altar features
wooded slopes. The two and its natural environ- an image of Mary
streets that follow the river, ment; also on display Magdalene from 1752.
lined with pleasant 19th- and are glass and porcelain It is flanked by Jakob
20th-century houses, are items and handicrafts. Eberles 1759
linked by numerous road- Besides permanent sculptures of St
and foot-bridges. All the displays there are Augustine, St
mineral springs are also also topical Jerome, St Peter
found along the river, as well exhibitions and St Paul. It is
as the historic colonnades organized also worth taking
and the majority of interesting throughout Detail above Karlovy Vary a closer look at
architectural sights. the year. Theatre entrance the lavishly
decorated side
altars, the dome and the
BOHEMIAS SPA RESORTS
magnificent galleries high up.
Clustered in the western part of the country, spa resorts The wavy faade with two
(lzn) began to emerge and flourish in the 18th century. towers features a splendid
Crowds of patients and prominent figures of the day visited semi-circular stairway.
spas, initially to take medicinal baths, and later to drink
spring waters in truly exclusive company and opulent P Market Colonnade
surroundings. During the Trit.
Communist era, spa cures This lovely white wooden
were open to all who need- colonnade, Trni kolonda,
ed them, and spa treatments designed in Swiss style by
remain popular in the Ferdinand Fellner and
Czech Republic today. The Hermann Helmer, was built
spa towns also still attract in 18834 on the site of a
numerous German, Austri- former town hall, which was
an and Russian visitors, and demolished in 1879. It contains
during the past 20 years two springs. In 19912 it
many have been restored underwent a thorough recon-
Karlovy Vary in 1891 to their former glory. struction, although it has kept
its original appearance.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 W E S T B O H E M I A 175

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map A2. * 53,600.
Main and local stations. @
Varavsk. n Lzesk 1. Tel
353 224 097. Fax 353 224 667.
n Smetanovy Sady 1145/1. Tel
353 304 225. Fax 355 321 165.
_ International Film Festival: late
JunJul. www.karlovyvary.cz
Columns of the Mill Colonnade

P Mill Colonnade structure made of columns R Church of St Peter and

Mlnsk nabe. decorated with sculptures, St Paul
Built in 187181 by Josef terminating in two pavilions. Krle Jiho. # 10am5pm daily.
Ztek, creator of the National The colonnade was designed This church (sv. Petr a Pavel)
Theatre in Prague (see pp94 by Ferdinand Fellner and with its five gilded domes, built
5), the Mill Colonnade Hermann Helmer in 188081. in 18937 by G Wiedermann,
(Mlnsk kolonda) is the It stands in the Dvokovy is among the worlds largest
largest of the resorts sady gardens. Russian Orthodox churches. It
colonnades, and one of its was built for the Russian
most opulent. The Neo- aristocracy, who in the 19th
Renaissance gallery, 132 m century flocked to Karlovy
(430 ft) long and 13 m (43 ft) Vary in great numbers.
wide, has a coffered ceiling
resting on 124 columns with J Diana Viewpoint
Corinthian capitals. Inside Funicular. # 9:15am4:45pm (to
are five springs, with a water 6:45pm JunSep) daily.
temperature exceeding 50C Behind the towns top hotel,
(120F). Statues at each end the Grand Hotel Pupp (see
represent the twelve months p352), at the southern end of
of the year. Star Louka, is the lower
station of the funicular, which
P Park Colonnade runs to the top of the Hill of
Dvokovy sady. Friendship. Built in 1912, the
On the west bank of the funicular rises 167 m (550 ft),
Tepl, right at the centre of covering a distance of 435 m
town, stands Sadov (1,425 ft). At the top is the
Kolonda a beautiful Gilded domes of the Church of St Diana viewpoint, providing a
painted wrought-iron Peter and St Paul great view over the resort.

Main train station

1 km (0.6 mile)
KARLOVY VARY TOWN ZA Park
Bus station & HR
CENTRE Doln Ndra station A D N

Colonnade
600 m (650 yards)
I.

Church of St Mary Magdalene 4

P.
IHO

ML

PA

Church of St Peter and

A
N

VL
JI

OV

SK

DO V
St Paul 8
Y

SA

L
H
E
KRL

Mill D
C
Diana Viewpoint 9
N

Church of Colonnade E
B

St Peter and
E

Imperial Baths 1 HO Z M V
K

St Paul ELI
E
V R C CK

V
D

H
L

RA
Karlovy Vary Museum 2 T
N

PE
S K

Karlovy Vary Theatre 3 Market

Colonnade
ZE
VA

Market Colonnade 5
L

K I K O
KOLM

Mill Colonnade 6
T

Church of St Mary
Magdalene
TR

Park Colonnade 7 MO
R AV
SK

NA
0 metres 200 KA
DIVADELN
I
U

U NMST
LIB

LO
A L I B U IN A
AR
UK Karlovy Vary
0 yards 200 ST LO
V
Theatre
Funicular NO
K TY
Karlovy Vary L
RO
OV A

Museum U
PO
MAR
INS VA
KOL

ZE

Diana SK

Viewpoint Imperial
Baths
Key to Symbols see back flap
176 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

West Bohemian Monasteries

In the Middle Ages West Bohemia experi-
enced the emergence of numerous centres
of monastic life. The most prominent were
the abbeys: the Benedictine in Kladruby (see
p168), the Cistercian in Plasy and the Pre-
monstratensian in Tepl. In the Baroque era
the medieval buildings were converted by
the leading architects of the day into vast
church and monastery complexes, with
opulent interior decor and furnishings.

The Cistercian Monastery in Plasy,

about 20 km (12 miles) north of Plze,
was founded in 114445, by Vladislav II.
Giovanni Santini and the French-born
architect Jean-Baptiste Mathey gave it its
present Baroque appearance.

The lantern above the cupola of

Kladruby Church, which gives it its
distinctive silhouette, was designed by
Giovanni Santini in 171618.
Topped with a golden
crown, it filters a
beautiful light into
the building.

The lavishly decorated

faade of the church
dates from 1726, which
is confirmed by the
date in the porch of the
Inside Kladruby Church, the nave is main entrance. The
85 m (280 ft) long, the longest in statue of the Madonna
Bohemia. The interior was designed with a halo, seen
by Santini, including the highly on top of the faade in
decorative vaulting. The tomb of the a niche above the
monasterys founder, Vladislav I, is tall window, dates
at the front of the church, to the left. from 1716.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3523 and pp3823
 W E S T B O H E M I A 177

The Tepl
Monastery
Church of the
Annunciation of
the Virgin Mary is
a beautiful
Romanesque
building, part of
the original 12th-
century monastery
complex. Much of
the rest of the
The Premonstratensian Monastery, Tepl, complex was built
15 km (9 miles) east of Marinsk Lzn, was in Baroque style
founded in 1193. The spectacular Neo- in 16891721 by
Baroque Monastery library was added in the K I Dientzenhofer.
1900s and houses about 100,000 volumes.

The mosaic seen above the beautiful

portal of the Romanesque-Gothic
Church of the Annunciation, in Tepl,
depicts the Virgin Mary and Child.

KLADRUBY
MONASTERY
This Benedictine
monastery,
founded in 1114
by Vladislav I,
became a major
centre of Pemyslid
power. Early in the 18th
century, St Marys, the
original church, was
remodelled by Giovanni
Santini in Baroque style with
some obvious Gothic elements. It
is considered to be the greatest
achievement of this brilliant Czech-born
The new building
architect. In 1785 the monastery was
was designed by closed and rebuilt as a chateau to designs
K I Dientzenhofer by K I Dientzenhofer (see p65).
as a chateau.

Marinsky Tnec has

belonged to the
Cistercians from nearby
Plasy Monastery since
1230. Giovanni Santini
was responsible for
numerous Baroque
additions in the first half
of the 18th century.
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 179

NORTH BOHEMIA

O
ne of the most prosperous and industrial parts of the
country for many centuries, divided in two by the Labe
(Elbe), North Bohemia is a diverse and rewarding region to
explore. The attractive main city of Liberec offers a good taste of Czech
culture, while slightly off the beaten track are a surprising number of
castles and atmospheric old towns.
The wealth of North its population has been German.
Bohemia (Severn Many surviving relics of
echy) was based Gothic architecture
principally on the bear witness to the
regions natural mingling of Czech and
resources. Iron ore and coal Saxon cultures. In 1938 a
were mined here from the large part of North Bohemia,
Middle Ages. During the past few dominated by Germans, was
centuries the production of fine incorporated into the Third Reich,
porcelain has played a significant who set up Terezn as a concentration
role in its economy. Unfortunately camp. The forcible expulsion of all
the intensive exploitation of raw local Germans after World War II left
materials, especially strip-mining for many towns and villages deserted.
lignite (brown coal), and industrial These have since been resettled, but
overdevelopment have ravaged the some border areas remain under-
regions landscape. Since 1989, much populated. Roma (Gypsies) live in
has been done to reduce pollution many areas, and tension exists
and limit the ecological damage, but between them and the local Czechs.
even now the dominant features of Tucked away in the region are
much of North Bohemia are factory some remarkably well-preserved or
chimneys and areas of lunar lovingly restored castles, towns and
landscape left by mining works. monasteries. The weird geological
While the region has shared much formations of esk vcarsko
of its history and culture with (Czech Switzerland) attract many
Bohemia, a considerable section of visitors interested in outdoor activities.

Part of a gable on a slate-tiled house in tk

The castle of Dn overlooking the Labe

180 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring North Bohemia

The jewels of North Bohemian architecture
Litomice, Louny, atec, Kada and tk
must be included in the itinerary of any visitor
exploring this part of the country. Their
amazingly well-preserved old towns are truly
impressive, although to restore individual
buildings to their former glory still requires a
great deal of work and money. The regions
main city, Liberec, is a thriving centre, with
some excellent art collections. The extraordinary
rock formations are the main feature of esk
vcarsko, where the Labe (Elbe) has cut a
narrow gorge on its way through the Czech
Republic to Germany.

Palace in Teplice

Dresden Jlov

ry
H o ST NAD
Dubi LABEM
st nad Labem

OSEK TEPLICE Stekov

MONASTERY
Kalek DUCHCOV
Litvnov
PALACE
n
ru Blina
K ina
Bl LITOMICE
Nov Ves Jirkov Most
Lovosice
Chomutov Velebudice
TEREZN
Sabnice
STECK KRAJ
KLTEREC Libochovice
NAD OH KADA Laany
Ohe
Postoloprty
Karlovy Vary LOUNY
ATEC
Raetice

Pov
Prague
Podboany

Strojetice

0 km 15

Plzen
0 miles 15

SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3534
Statue of Jan Hus in
Where to Eat pp3845
Louny town square

For additional map symbols see back flap

 N O R T H B O H E M I A 181

GETTING AROUND
The easiest way of getting to North Bohemia
from Prague is along D8 motorway (the inter-
national E55 route), which links the Czech
capital with Dresden. The wide road R10 goes
to Liberec, and Turnov. The main transport
route cutting across the entire region, from
Liberec all the way to Chomutov, is the
popular and often congested road 13. Buses
and trains provide reasonable coverage of
North Bohemia but are less frequent during
weekends and holiday periods. Interior staircase, Liberec Town Hall

luknov Gorlitz

Rumburk

Varnsdorf
FRDLANT
Hensko
ESK
Smrk
VCARSKO HEJNICE 1122m
Jetichovice
Labe

Lu
ic J izer
k H Chrastava sk H o
Kamenick ory ry
DN enov

BENEOV Nov Bor LIBEREC

NAD PLOUNIC JABLONN Jetd
V PODJETD Vrchlab
1012m
Jablonec Tanvald
ESK LPA LIBERECK
Zahrdky Mimo KRAJ SYCHROV PALACE
Jesteh
TK

Doksy

be Mlad
La Boleslav
Roudnice

Prague
Arable land beside the road linking Kada with atec

KEY
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Motorway
Beneov nad Plounic 9 Liberec pp1825 1
Main road
esk Lpa 6 Litomice q
Minor road esk vcarsko pp1889 7 Louny u
Main railway Dn 8 Osek Monastery t
Duchcov Palace y Sychrov Palace 5
Minor railway
Frdlant 2 Teplice r
International border Hejnice 3 Terezn w
Regional border Jablonn v Podjetd 4 tk 0
Kada o st nad Labem e
Summit
Klterec nad Oh p atec i
182 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Liberec 1 P Sokolovsk Nmst

This square includes some
As early as the 16th century Liberec (Reichenberg) was houses with highly ornate
a major weaving centre. With the 19th-century industrial faades, but its main sight is
revolution, large textile factories and metalwork plants the Church of St Anthony (sv.
brought true prosperity to the city. Between the two Antonna). This triple-aisled
edifice has a 70-m (230-ft) tall
World Wars Liberec was the main political centre of the tower. Built in 157987 and
Czech Germans; under German occupation it was made remodelled in the 19th
the capital of Sudetenland. After the war it regained its century in Neo-Gothic style,
position as North Bohemias main city, while also it is the towns oldest brick
becoming a tourist centre. building. Its interior is
dominated by a 10-m (33-ft)
high altarpiece with figures of
the patron saints of Bohemia.

P Wallenstein Houses
Vtrn.
Just off Sokolovsk nmst in
narrow Vtrn street are some
of the oldest and most inter-
esting buildings in Liberec:
the Wallenstein Houses
(Valdtejnsk domky). The
three buildings of timber-
frame construction and with
street-facing gables date from
167881. They were once
inhabited by cloth-makers,
Lavishly decorated faade of F X aldy Theatre and one was an inn.

Exploring the city P Town Hall (Radnice)

Liberec is rich in historic See pp1845
buildings, similar to many
Czech towns, but also has F F X aldy Theatre
equally interesting, modern Nmst Dr E Benee 22. Tel 485 104
buildings, which can be seen 188. # 10am6pm (until 7pm on
between the main square and performance days) MonFri.
Sokolovsk nmst. Sights At the rear of the town hall
outside this area include the is the F X aldy Theatre
Oblastn Gallery, and a little (Divadlo F X aldy), designed
further east from the centre, in 1883 by the Viennese
the Severoesk Museum. architects Ferdinand Fellner
and Hermann Helmer. Its
P Nmst Dr E Benee ornate faade has an allegory
Liberecs main square, of Art holding a torch, and a
and the entire town, are figure of Apollo surrounded
dominated by the Neo- by dolphins. Inside, take a
Renaissance town hall look at the curtain painted The half-timbered Wallenstein
(see pp1845). In front of by Gustav Klimt. Houses
the town hall is a fountain
by Franz Metzner dating R Church of the Holy Cross
from 1927. By the steps of Mal Nmst. Tel 485 108 506.
the town hall is a modest This Baroque church (sv.
monument to those who Kie) with a cross-shape
died fighting in 1968 after floorplan was built by Johann
the Warsaw Pact invasion. Josef Kunz in 175361 on the
The houses around the site of an older church that
square are not as uniformly stood on a former plague
well preserved as in many cemetery. Its richly fitted
other old towns, and mostly interior includes a statue of
date from the 19th and the Virgin Mary holding the
20th centuries, but a few dead body of Christ, which
fine buildings survive. dates from 1506. The
The square is named after beautiful Plague Column
Edvard Bene, the president (1719) standing behind the
of Czechoslovakia during Faade of an early 19th-century church came from the
World War II. building in Sokolovsk nmst workshop of Matthias Braun.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 L I B E R E C 183

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map B2. * 105,000.
Nkladni 495. Tel 972 365
401. @ Vaurova 885.
Tel 482 423 221.
n Nmst Dr E Benee 2/32.
Tel 485 101 709.
www.infolbc.cz

Liberec Castle one of the towns early brick buildings E North Bohemian Museum
Masarykova 11. Tel 485 246 111.
P Liberec Castle and Flemish artists, 19th- # 9am5pm TueSun. &
U tiskrny. to visitors. century French landscapists This eclectic museum is
The original Renaissance and many superb modern housed in a Neo-Renaissance
palace dating from 15837 paintings, drawings and building erected in 18978.
was remodelled several times. sculptures by Czech artists. The large, varied collection
It has a Renaissance chapel There is also a collection of includes glass, ceramics,
with a lovely coffered ceiling, 19th-century German and porcelain, textiles, furniture,
and beautifully carved Austrian painting. clocks and jewellery, much of
wooden oratory supported by it locally produced. There are
five columns. There are plans also photography, archaeology
to turn the castle into a show- and history exhibitions. Partic-
case for local crystalware. ularly valuable is its extraordi-
nary collection of mechanical
E Regional Gallery music instruments.
U tiskrny. Tel 485 106 325.
# 10am6pm TueSun. & Environs
www.ogl.cz A further walk eastwards along
One of the finest galleries in the tree-lined Masarykova
the Czech Republic, this has leads to the Botanical Gardens
been housed in the 1872 Neo- and the Zoo, the oldest (1904)
Renaissance villa of a textile in Bohemia. To the southwest
industrialist, Baron Johann of the centre is one of Liberecs
Liebig. Much of the art landmarks, Jetd peak. On
collection was donated to the the 1012-m (3,320-ft) summit,
town in 1904 by the Liebig reached by cable car, is a 1960s
family; it now includes works Dvorek v Bentkch by August tower, part of a hotel, which
by 16th18th century Dutch Pettenkofen, Regional Gallery offers superb views.

LIBEREC TOWN SO
CENTRE Church of the RYBA S K A
K
O
LS North Bohemian Museum,
Holy Cross H E L IO VA K Botanical Gardens,
Wallenstein Zoo
Church of the VT Houses F
R N R
Holy Cross 6 MAL DL NA
NMST AN F X aldy T
KV A
F X aldy Theatre 3 Theatre 5. OV
DT

SOKOLOVSK S
HU
SK

NMST EL ALDOVO
Liberec Castle 7

U EZN NMST
OM
L Town Hall
Nmst Dr E
JA
H O VA
U

LUC
EM
B

BU Church of O
L

Benee 1 RS
K St Anthony N
EC
C

NMST
PA L A

K
Regional Gallery 8 I
DR E BENEE
R GO VA
O GU TEN BER
KA

FELBER
Sokolovsk Nmst 4 K OVA

SK

KEVS

HO
A

VA

Town Hall 2
PAPRO

PRA

NSK
MOS

Wallenstein Houses 5 Liberec

Castle
SK

ME
UN

KO
M

NA

SOUKENN Regional
U

NMST R E V R Gallery
EZ

OL B. N
U
N M
B

CO
V
Y
RN
8.

0 metres 200 Train and bus stations

ISK

800 m (880 yards)

UT

0 yards 200 OB
LA
NA

Jstd peak NA B
ID

Key to Symbols see back flap

184 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Liberec Town Hall

A majestic edifice, the town hall (radnice)
was built in the German Neo-Renaissance
style in 188893 to a design by Viennese
architect Franz Neumann. The size and
ornamentation were intended to highlight
the status and wealth of the town, which in
the late 19th century was one of the main
industrial centres of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire. The councillors and townsfolk
were undoubtedly flattered by the fact that
the silhouette of the new building was
strongly reminiscent of Viennas town hall.

. Main Faade
The symmetrical faade
sports a 65-m (210-ft)
tower; in 2005 a knight
with a banner
was
placed
at the
top.

Staircase Ceiling
The painting by A Groll on the ceiling of the
main staircase depicts a female figure sym-
bolizing Liberec and the god of trade, Mercury.

. Staircase
The main staircase to the first-floor state
rooms emphasized the towns wealth with
its use of marble and its sheer size.

Entrance Hall
Marble stairs,
illuminated by
stained-glass
windows
donated by the
guild of bakers,
lead from the Above the
hall to the first- main entrance is
floor rooms. the date of completion,
and a relief by
Theodore Friedel.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 L I B E R E C 185

Stained-Glass Window in the VISITORS CHECKLIST

Debating Chamber
The Debating Chamber, used Nmst Dr E Benee 1. Tel 485
for official functions and as a con- 101 709. Fax 485 243 589. #
OctApr: 9am3pm MonFri; May
cert hall, is lavishly decorated with
Sep: 9am3pm MonFri, 911am
wood. Its six stained-glass windows Sat, Sun (visits booked via
were the pride of Liberecs glass Liberec info centre see p183) &
industry. They depict allegories 8 by appt. www.liberec.cz
of Art, Science, Trade, Craft
and Administration.

Drawing
Room
A large stained-
glass window
in the Drawing
Room shows
Liberecs old
town hall,
demolished
in 1893.

Mayoral Offices
The second-floor
drawing room is a part
of the office of the towns
mayor; it is used to hold
official meetings.

Side
Entrance
Two ornate
columns (right)
flank the side
entrance.

STAR FEATURES
. Main Faade
. Staircase
186 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

in 1729, able to accommodate

7,000 worshippers.
The main altarpiece has a
14th-century Gothic Madonna.
During the Reformation, when
the district was ruled by the
Protestant Redern family, the
church was closed, and the
statue transferred to Frdlant
Castle. When the statue
survived a fire in the castle in
1615 this was taken as a sign
that it should be returned,
and it was soon afterwards.
R Church of the Visitation
of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Tel 482 360 211. # daily. 5 4pm
Tomb of Frederick I, his wife and son, Church of the Holy Cross, Frdlant
TueSun, 9am Sun. www.mcdo.cz

Frdlant 2 decorated interior and a monu-

mental mausoleum (1610) to Environs
Road map B2. * 7,500. the von Redern family. Hejnice is the best starting
@ from Liberec. n Nmst T point for forays into Jizersk
G Masaryka 37. Tel 482 464 013. + Frdlant Castle mountains, an extension of
Tel 482 312 130. # Apr, Oct: the Krkonoe massif. A well-
The small town of Frdlant 9am4:30pm TueSun (to 4pm May, signposted hiking route
(Friedland) is dominated by its Jun, Sep; to 3:30pm Apr, Oct). & 8 (about 30 km/18 miles long)
vast, sprawling castle. Frdlant 2 routes. www.zamekfrydlant.cz leads from Hejnice to the top
Castle reputedly inspired of Smrk (1,122 m/ 3,680 ft),
Franz Kafka as the setting for with a view over the peat
his famous novel The Castle. Hejnice 3 moor Na ihadle.
An earlier Gothic fortress was
extended in the 16th century Road map B2. 7 km (4 miles) SE of
by an Italian architect, Marco Frdlant. * 2,800. @ from Liberec. Jablonn
Spazzio di Lancio, commis- n Kltern 87. Tel 482 322 276. v Podjetd 4
sioned by the von Redern
family who owned the castle Hejnice is a small, pleasant Road map B2. * 3,800.
from 1558. Following the Battle town with a spa. Visitors @ from Liberec. n Nmst
of the White Mountain in 1620, come mainly for its Church of Mru 23. Tel 487 710 933.
this opulent residence became the Visitation of the Blessed
the property of the powerful Virgin Mary (Navtven Panny One of the oldest towns in
Albrecht von Wallenstein, who Marie), one of the Czech Bohemia, Jablonn (Gabel)
assumed the title of Duke of Republics major pilgrimage was founded in 1240. Activity
Frdlant. The Swedes, who centres. On this site, according centres around the main square
occupied the castle at the end to tradition, the Virgin Mary (nmst Mru), where cafs
of the Thirty Years War, has bestowed miraculous overlook the Basilica of St
strengthened its defence walls graces and favours since the Lawrence and St Zdislava
and built fortified barbicans. 13th century. The earlier stone (sv. Vavince a Zdislavy). This
The castle was opened to Gothic church was replaced Baroque edifice with its lofty
the public as early as 1801. by a magnificent Baroque one dome was built in 1699. In the
Now it is possible to view its
magnificently restored interiors,
including the Knights Hall,
Portraits Hall and Trophies
Room. Inside are many
valuable pieces of furniture,
tapestries, porcelain, ceramics,
chandeliers, suits of armour
and uniforms. The collection
of paintings is outstanding, with
works by Karel krta, Vclav
Vavinec Reiner and others.
The castle museum has an exhi-
bition on the Thirty Years War.
The beautiful Church of the
Holy Cross (sv. K), built by
Italian architects in the mid-
16th century, has a lavishly View of the pilgrimage church in Hejnice

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 N O R T H B O H E M I A 187

Baroque crypt below the high collection of French portrait esk vcarsko 7
altar is the tomb of St Zdisla- paintings, unrivalled outside
va, who lived in the 13th cen- France. Antonn Dvok came See pp1889.
tury, the wife of the local lord several times to Sychrov to
of Lemberk (see below). In rest between 1877 and 1880.
1995 she was canonized. The The palace is surrounded by
faade includes Baroque stat- a large English-style garden
ues of saints, including with many exotic trees. Here,
St Zdislava and St Lawrence. concerts are held over the
summer months.
R Basilica of St Lawrence
and St Zdislava
Tel 487 762 105. # MaySep:
TueSun; Apr, Oct: Sat & Sun. esk Lpa 6
www.zdislava.cz
Road map A2. * 40,000. from
Dn, Liberec. @ from Prague.
Environs n Nmst T G Masaryka 2. Tel 487
About 2 km (1 mile) northeast 881 105. www.mucl.cz
of the village is Lemberk Castle,
St Zdislavas home, which has In the 15th century, esk
interesting displays on her life. Lpa (Bhmisch Leipa) was
one of the major centres of Baroque castle in Dn
+ Lemberk Castle the Hussite movement. Later,
Tel 487 762 305. # Apr, Oct: Sat in the 19th century it gained a
& Sun; MaySep: TueSun. & 8 reputation as a dynamic Dn 8
centre of the textile industry,
Road map A2. * 52,400.
producing popular printed
@ from Prague. n Zbrojnick 14.
fabrics. Today esk Lpa is
Tel 412 540 014.
an industrial town with some
interesting architectural sights. Lying on the Labe (Elbe),
The main square is lined Dn (Tetschen) is made up
with attractive houses. All that of the more industrial
remains of the former Renais- Podmokly on the left bank,
sance castle is the lovely and the older Dn on the
decorated 1583 Red House right. In Dn the Church of
(erveny dm), with a magni- the Holy Cross (sv. K) is an
ficent loggia running along its ornate Baroque building from
first floor. The Church of the the late 17th century. The
Holy Cross (sv. K) was town square has a 1906 Art
founded in 1381 and bears Nouveau fountain. The castle
evidence of later remodelling. is a royal fortress built in the
The Regional Museum has a 13th century and adapted in
The Basilica of St Lawrence and St small collection of local the 17th and 18th centuries.
Zdislava in Jablonn v Podjetd historic materials. It is housed Entrance is via Dlouh jzda, a
in the former Augustinian steep, narrow alley built in the
monastery, founded in 1627 1670s. The castle has a superb
Sychrov Palace 5 by Albrecht von Wallenstein. rose garden.
E Regional Museum + Dn Castle
Road map B2. from Liberec.
Tel 487 824 145. # Mar, Apr, Tel 412 518 905. # MarDec:
Tel 482 416 011. # JanMar: 10am
OctDec: WedSun; MaySep: daily; JanFeb: ThuSun. & 8
2pm daily; Apr, Sep, Oct: 9am TueSun. & www.muzeumcl.cz www.zamekdecin.cz
3:30pm daily; MayAug: 9am4:30pm
daily; Nov, Dec: 10am2pm daily. &
8 www.zamek-sychrov.cz

The palace stands in the

romantic valley of the
Mohelka river. An earlier
Baroque building was
remodelled in the 19th
century in Neo-Classical, and
later in Neo-Gothic style.
From 1820 to 1945 the palace
belonged to the aristocratic
French Rohan family, who
assembled a large collection
of art here. Now the Rohan
Gallery has a superb Houses in the main square in esk Lpa
188 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

esk vcarsko 7

An extraordinary area of natural

beauty, esk vcarsko is a
landscape of forests and fantastically
shaped sandstone rocks, criss-
crossed by gorges and ravines. This
region was attracting tourists as
Information sign early as the 19th century, when
on a hiking trail the Romantic poets first dubbed it
the Czech Switzerland (it is also
referred to as Bohemian Switzerland). The National
Park established over this area, in 2000, continues to
attract many visitors, mainly from Germany.
Pravicka brna
This is the largest natural rock
bridge in Central Europe, at
26 m (85 ft) long, 78 m
(25 ft) wide, and rising to a
height of 16 m (52 ft).

From Mezn Louka a red

hiking trail leads to the
stone bridge of Pravick
brna, 6.5 km (4 miles)
away. From here you can
Falcons Nest continue on the same trail
This small castle (1881), by the to Hensko, a further
Pravicka brna, belonged to 2.5 km (2 miles).
the Clary-Aldringen
family. It now
houses a res-
Labe (Elbe)

taurant and J
the National
62

Park Museum.
Mezni Louka
0 km 1
Hensko
1
Mezn
0 miles
Dn
Ka
me
nice

Kamenick
Str

Kamenice Gorge
This narrow gorge
runs between
vertical walls of
rocks, 50150 m
(165500 ft) high.
Boat trips go up-
or downstream. The
Tich Soutska footpath along its
Known as the quiet gorge, this banks was built in
section of Kamenice Gorge the 19th century
stretches for 960 m (3,150 ft). by Italian workers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 N O R T H B O H E M I A 189

Wildlife in the VISITORS CHECKLIST

National Park
esk vcarsko used to be Road map B2. @ from Dn.
rich in animal species. n Hensko 82. Tel 412 554
286. www.pbrana.cz
Although the animal
National Park Museum
diversity is not as great as it Falcons Nest. # AprOct:
once was, the Park remains 10am6pm daily; NovMar:
a haven for wildlife, 10am4pm Sat, Sun. &
including European beaver,
river otter, lynx, which
settled here in the 1930s,
and the Alpine chamois,
introduced in 1907.

Kyjov

Tourist Trails
Sokol vrch The entire area of the
Park has a network of
486 m
(1594 ft)
clearly signposted hiking
and cycling trails.
Doubice

Ostroh
J
484 m
autejn (1588 ft)

Vysok Lpa Jetichovice

Rynartice auntejn
The high rock platform, which once
was the site of the small auntejn
Castle, known also as Robbers
castle (Loupenick hradek),
can now be reached only by a
series of vertical stepladders.

KEY
Road

Jetichovice Hiking trail

This scenic village, whose timber houses now River
provide beds for the many walkers, makes a good
Viewpoint
base for forays into the rocky Jetichovick range.
190 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Beneov rocky ridge, its former Gothic North Bohemian Art Gallery
castle in ruins, but retaining a (Severoesk galerie vtvar-
nad Plounic 9 pleasant inner courtyard. The nho umni) are Bohemian
mightiest part of the towns Gothic altar paintings by the
Road map B2. * 4,000. @
fortifications is Pikartsk v, Master of Litomice.
from Dn. n Nmst Mru 1.
with 2-m (6-ft) thick walls, now During the late 17th and
Tel 412 589 811.
housing the local art gallery. early 18th centuries the archi-
Two 16th-century castles are The narrow town square tect Ottavio Broggio changed
the pride of Beneov, an features several Gothic many of the towns buildings.
attractive town centred houses with street-facing His father Giulio remodelled
on its main square. gables. The Church St Stephens Cathedral (sv.
The 15th-century of St Peter and St Paul tpna), a vast basilica just
Church of the (sv. Petr a Pavel) west of the town centre.
Nativity of the has an altarpiece
E Regional Museum
Virgin Mary by Karel krta.
Dlouh 173. Tel 416 731 339.
(Narozen Panny Unique to the # TueSun. &
Marie) has a 16th- town are the birds
century sandstone houses (pta E Diocesan Museum & Gallery
Mrov Nmst 16/24. Tel 416 732
pulpit. There is Gable of the town hall domky), wooden
382. # TueSun.
also a fine Renais- in Beneov homes perched
sance town hall. on a rocky ledge. E North Bohemian
The castles are in the Saxon They were inhabited by Jew- Art Gallery
Renaissance style, rare in ish families and then in the Michalsk 7. Tel 416 732 382. #
TueSun. & www.galerie-ltm.cz
Bohemia. Both adjoin the 19th century by Italians who
15th-century city walls. The worked on the construction
Upper Castle is partially open of the railway.
to the public due to reno-
E Gallery U Brny
vations following a 1969 fire.
# FebDec: daily.
The Lower Castle has some
interesting interiors.
+ Beneov Castles
Tel 412 586 575. # Apr, Oct: Litomice q
WedSun; MaySep: TueSun. &
www.zamek-benesov.cz Road map B2. * 25,100.
@ from Prague. n Mrov
nmst 15/7. Tel 416 732 440.
tk 0
The beautiful town of
Road map B2. * 2,700. Litomice was founded in the
@ from Litomice. n Mrov 13th century. The zenith of its Detail of a wall-painting in the
nmst 47. Tel 416 795 368. glory was in the mid-15th House at the Chalice, Litomice
www.mesto-ustek.cz century, when it was among
The picturesque buildings of the largest towns in Bohemia.
tk have provided locations Following the Thirty Years Terezn w
for numerous films. This War, in 1655, it became the
sleepy town lies on a narrow seat of a new diocese, the Road map B2. * 3,100. @ from
main centre for re- Prague, Litomice. n Nmst SA
introducing Catholicism 179. Tel 416 782 616.
to North Bohemia. www.terezin.cz
The Renaissance
town hall (radnice) in In 1780 Joseph II began the
the main square construction of a fortified
(Mrov nmst) has garrison to stop the potential
Gothic arcades. Nearby advance of an enemy from the
is the 1537 House at direction of Dresden. The for-
the Chalice (Dm u tress, called Terezn (Theresien-
Kalicha), with a goblet- stadt) in honour of the
shaped roof finial Emperors mother, Maria
symbol of the Hussites. Theresa, took 11 years to build.
In several other old The resulting structure con-
buildings on the square sists of the octagonal Main
is the superb collection Fortress (Hlavn pevnost) and
of religious paintings the rectangular Small Fortress
in the Diocesan (Mal pevnost). A system of
Museum and Gallery corridors, 29 km (18 miles)
(Galerie & Muzeum long, runs under the town.
litomick diecze). Within the Main Fortress is
Picturesque houses in tk town square Near the square, in the Terezn town centre.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 N O R T H B O H E M I A 191

near the castle, stands the

Gothic-Renaissance Church of
St Florian, built in 15971603
and featuring a magnificent
Renaissance main altarpiece,
the work of Master T Lindner
of Freiberg, dating from 1605;
there is also a lovely vault.
P Stekov Castle
# AprOct: TueSun; NovDec:
Sat & Sun.

Fountain in Lzesk Sad, the spa park in Teplice

From the second half of the stages of World War II, was Teplice r
19th century the Small Fortress pushed out of plumb by nearly
was used as a jail for political 2 m (6 ft). A fine example of Road map B2. * 53,200. @
prisoners; Serb student Gavrilo modern engineering and from Prague. n Nmst Svobody 2.
Princip, the assassin of architecture is the Marinsky Tel 417 510 666. www.teplice.cz
Archduke Franz Ferdinand, Bridge over the Labe (Elbe),
was kept here until his death. opened in 1998 an unusual Teplice is the oldest health
In 1940 the Small Fortress suspended structure that is resort in Bohemia. The
became a prison and, later, a supported by a single pylon. curative effects of local spring
concentration camp within the waters were recognized as far
Protectorate of Bohemia and Environs back as the 15th century, but
Moravia. In the autumn of 1941 A couple of kilometres from hydrotherapy was only
the Germans transformed the the town centre are the ruins developed in the 19th century.
Main Fortress into a ghetto for of Stekov Castle, perched on In 1879 the spa waters
the Jews, who were brought a steep rock above the Labe. stopped flowing for a while
here from all over Europe, and In 1842 they inspired Wagner after a nearby mining disaster.
subsequently dispatched to to compose his Tannhuser. Much of the old town centre
death camps. In the Krsne Bezno district, was destroyed by the
The Ghetto Museum inside Communists, but the palace,
the main fortress uses artefacts, built in 15851634, survives,
photographs and videos to give and was later rebuilt in
a detailed and shocking picture Baroque and Neo-Classical
of ghetto life. This continues in styles. In the palace chapel it
the Magdeburg Barracks where is worth taking a closer look
the cramped conditions are re- at the Renaissance altarpiece
constructed. Exhibits also cover now used as a tombstone a
the ghettos rich cultural life. fine 1420 work by an Italian
master. The palace also
P Small Fortress houses Teplice Museum. St
Principova Alej 304. Tel 416 782
Johns church (sv. Jan) in the
225. # daily. &
town square has rich Baroque
E Ghetto Museum and paintings inside.
Magdeburg Barracks
Komenskho. Tel 416 782 577. P Teplice Museum
# daily. & Zmeck Nmst 14. Tel 417 537
Interior of the church of the
869. # TueSun. &
Assumption in st nad Labem

st nad Labem e THE TEREZIN GHETTO

Road map B2. * 98,800. @ Terezn ghetto was intended to keep
from Prague. n Mrov nmst 1. in isolation Jews brought here from
Tel 475 271 700. www.usti-nl.cz all parts of occupied Europe. The
conditions were, ostensibly, shown
A major river port on the as adequate for survival, and an
Labe (Elbe), st nad Labem International Red Cross delegation
(Aussig) is an industrial and was persuaded twice that the ghetto
trade centre. The 14th-century was a self-governing Jewish town.
Cathedral Church of the In fact, at least 35,000 perished in the
Assumption of the Virgin ghetto, and over 100,000 prisoners
Mary (Nanebevzet Panny passed through on their way to near-
Marie) has a lovely late Gothic certain death in concentration camps.
altarpiece dating from 1498.
Its tower, following the Allies Part of the Jewish cemetery in Terezn
bombing of st in the final
192 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Duchcov Palace across the water

Osek Monastery t where Giacomo Casanova led to Saxony. Much was

spent the final years of his life destroyed by a fire in 1517.
Road map B2. @ from Teplice. (see box, opposite). The north Standing to this day are frag-
Tel 417 822 138. # AprOct: wing, a former bedroom ments of its original defensive
9am4pm TueSat (Apr, Sep, Oct: to and study, houses a few of walls and one imposing 16th-
3pm); 14pm Sun (Apr, Sep, Oct: to his mementoes. century gate ateck brna
3pm). 8 www.osek.cz The guests entertained by sporting the towns emblem.
the Wallensteins here A treasured survivor is its
The main attraction of Osek in-cluded Haydn, Mozart, Late Gothic Church of St
(Ossegg) is its Cistercian Goethe and Schiller. Nicholas (sv. Mikul), built
monastery founded in The family had the in 152038 by Benedikt Ried,
1196. The interior of palace remodelled on the ruins of a church. The
the monastery in the early 19th buildings conspicuous roof,
church overflows century in Neo- in the shape of three tents,
with lavish Baroque Classical style. The resembles that of St Barbaras
furnishings and ceiling of the large Cathedral in Kutn Hora
ornaments, added as ballroom was painted (see pp1223). The walls are
part of the 17th- by Vclav Vavinec supported on all sides by tall
century revival of Reiner. The main buttresses. The south vestibule
Catholicism in courtyard and the stair- with its donkey back portal
Bohemia. Ottavio way to the English-style features exceptionally intricate
Broggio made the garden is decorated net vaulting. Inside, take a
exterior alterations. with sculptures by look at the Baroque high
The spectacular Sculpture of St Matthew, Matthias Braun. altarpiece dating from the
wall and ceiling Osek monastery church early 18th century, the twin
stucco is by side altars and the Late Gothic
Giacomo Corbellini. Louny u pulpit from 1540.
The adjacent monastery has The town hall was built at
an early Gothic chapterhouse; Road map B2. * 19,000. @ from the end of the 19th century to
its ceiling is supported by two Prague. n Mrov nmst 35. replace an earlier 14th-century
columns with magnificent Tel 415 621 102. www.mulouny.cz building. Also built in the
capitals. At its centre stands an 19th century, and recently
exceptionally lovely, UNESCO- The town of Louny (Laun) restored, is the synagogue.
listed Romanesque lectern, was founded in the 13th
R Church of St Nicholas
made of stone, supported on century by Pemysl Otakar II,
# TueSun. &
two intertwined posts. The on the old trading route that
inner courtyard is surrounded
by cloisters, which are linked
with the church by a pre-1240
Romanesque portal.

Duchcov Palace y
Road map B2. @ from Prague,
Most. Tel 417 835 301. # Apr, Oct:
9am4pm WedSun; MaySep:
9am5pm TueSun (JunAug: to
6pm). & 8

The imposing Baroque palace

of the Wallenstein family was The lavishly decorated faade of the town hall in Louny

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3534 and pp3835
 N O R T H B O H E M I A 193

atec i GIACOMO CASANOVA

Road map A2. * 19,700. @ from The notorious Venetian
Prague, Louny. n Nmst Svobody adventurer and seducer arrived
1. Tel 415 736 156. www.mesto- in Duchcov in 1785 and took
zatec.cz on the position of palace
librarian. He was also hired
atecs pride is not limited to to entertain the castles
its excellent locally grown owners members of the
hops, used for Pilsner Urquell Wallenstein family. In
and other beers worldwide. Duchcov Casanova wrote
atec (Saaz) also has a well- most of his Memoirs. He died in
preserved old town, with many 1798 and was buried in the
interesting buildings. Parti- cemetery of the nearby Church of
cularly striking are the numer- St Barbara, although the exact Portrait of Giacomo
ous Gothic, Renaissance and location of his grave is not known. Casanova
Baroque houses with their
original doorways, gates and
arcades. One of the loveliest narrow Hangmans Lane an-der-Eger) fell into the hands
is the Hotalkov House, from (Katov ulika) leading from of the Thun family. They built
around 1500. The towns the south side of the main their Renaissance palace a
oldest church is the Church square; until the 17th century short distance from the village.
of the Assumption of the the only person entitled to Over the centuries the original
Virgin Mary, originally use the gate was the towns palace has undergone many
Romanesque, remodelled in hangman. Kadans town hall changes, some made by the
the Baroque period, and in (radnice) dates from the early Italian architects Rossi de
the 19th century reconstructed 14th century; its tower is 54 m Luca and Carlo Lurago, who
in the Gothic style. (177 ft) high. The Church of designed the adjacent church
the Fourteen Holy Martyrs of the Holy Trinity. In 1856
(trnct svatch Pomocnk), the palace was remodelled
an ornate Late Gothic building, into a fashionable Romantic
contains the marble sarco- edifice by changing the shape
phagus of John of Lobkowicz, of the faades, raising the
which dates from 1517, by the roofs and towers, and adding
north wall of the presbytery. decorative elements in the
Perched on top of a rock spirit of Neo-Gothic. The
above the Ohe river is a palace has retained this form.
former royal castle, dating The interiors have lost their
from the 13th century, and original furnishings, but now
currently undergoing house an impressive collec-
extensive reconstruction. tion of Czech porcelain.
The adjacent English park is
beautifully laid out, with rare
Klterec nad species of trees, sculptures by
Jan Brokof and the tomb of
Oh p the Thun-Hohenstein family
Oriel of a house in the main square displaying their family tree in
Road map A2. * 15,800. @
(No. 184) in Kada the form of a porcelain relief.
from Prague. n Nmst E Benee
86. Tel 474 376 431. P Palace and Park
Kada o Tel 474 375 436. # AprSep:
Following the Battle of the
MonSun; OctMar: TueSat.
Road map A2. * 18,700. @ White Mountain in 1620, &8
from Prague, Klterec. n Mrov Klaterec nad Oh (Klsterle-
nmst 1. Tel 474 319 550.

Despite the fact that most of

the town burned down in
1811, Kada (Kaaden) is still
one of the best-preserved
historic cities in Bohemia, and
the beautiful surroundings
make the town a lively and
interesting place to visit.
The medieval town is
almost fully encircled by
defensive walls, accessed by
a number of gates. A small
Gothic gate is reached via the The palace in Klterec nad Oh
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 195

EAST BOHEMIA

S
cenery is the star attraction in much of East Bohemia, an area
of exceptional diversity. The flat, somewhat monotonous
landscape around Hradec Krlov and Pardubice forms a
marked contrast with the dramatic scenery to the north in the
Krkonoe mountain range, which draws visitors in summer and
winter alike to Snka, the highest peak in the Czech Republic.
The capital of East Jin includes esk rj (the
B o h e m i a ( V c h o d n Bohemian Paradise), a land
echy), Hradec Krlov, full of castle ruins and
is a town that has passed extraordinary geological
through many stages of formations, exceptionally
development from Slav rich in precious minerals.
settlement, through medieval Central and eastern parts of
stronghold and Baroque fortress, to East Bohemia are characterized
showcase for spectacular Modernist by the extensive, flat plain around the
architecture in the 1920s. The regions River Labe (Elbe). The towns in this
other large towns Pardubice, with its region suffered badly in the Thirty
famous steeplechase course, and Litomyl, Years War (see p39), and their
with its imposing Renaissance palace and prosperity declined. This resulted in
its links with the Czech national recolonization and Germanization, but
composer, Bedich Smetana are also also in the development of Baroque art
beautiful and interesting places to explore. and architecture. East Bohemia has
The Krkonoe and Orlick mountain many fine works by Kilian Ignaz
ranges form the northern border of the Dientzenhofer, Giovanni Santini and
region and the country. They attract Matthias Braun. A special place among
many visitors keen on skiing and hiking. the historic buildings of the region
Within the Krkonoe range, the Krkonoe must be given to the castle and church
National Park and its flora are strictly complex in Kuks a unique structure
protected. The region near Turnov and born on a whim of Count pork.

Hydroelectric power station on the Labe (Elbe), in Hradec Krlov

Prachovsk skly, nicknamed the Gate to the Bohemian Paradise in esk rj

196 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring East Bohemia

The geological formations of East Bohemia, such as
)BSSBDIPW
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 E A S T B O H E M I A 197

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SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3545

Where to Eat pp3856

Part of the 17th-century arcaded market square in Jin
198 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Hradec Krlov 1 church was the temporary

burial site of Jan ika, leader
The capital of East Bohemia, at the confluence of the of the Hussite movement.
Labe (Elbe) and Orlice rivers, Hradec Krlov (Knig- Striking features of its plain
grtz) is one of the most beautiful towns in Bohemia. interior are the Late Gothic,
It first appears in historic records as early as 1225 and 15th-century high altar, and in
the south aisle, the Baroque
later became an important Hussite and then Counter- altarpiece with a painting of
Reformation centre. In the 20th century the town St Anthony, by Petr Brandl.
acquired a new face when architects Jan Kotra and Josef The pewter baptismal font,
Gor built many Modernist structures outside the dating from 1406, is one of
medieval centre on the east and west banks of the Labe. the oldest in Bohemia.

P White Tower
Franuova 1. Tel 495 514 722.
# AprSep: 9amnoon, 15pm daily.
The 72-m (235-ft) tall
Renaissance belfry next to the
cathedral was erected in 1589.
The white stone used as the
building material gave the
structure its name White
Tower (Bl v), though the
stone is now grey. The bell
inside, nicknamed Augustin,
is Bohemias second-largest.
Do not be misled by the
replacement clock that was
Town Hall and White Tower in Velk nmst fitted in the White Tower in
1829: the small hand points
Exploring the Town 1717 in thanksgiving for to the minutes, and the large
The oldest part of the town, sparing the town from the one to the hours!
with historic buildings plague of the previous year.
clustered around the two The monument is probably R Church of the Assumption
medieval squares, by sculptor and architect of the Virgin Mary
occupies high ground G B Bullo. Adjoining The church (Nanebevzet
between the two rivers the square to the Panny Marie) was built for
(see also pp2001). northeast is the smaller the Jesuit Order by Carlo
The New Town, built medieval square Lurago in the mid-17th century.
in 192030, starts on Mal nmst. One hundred years later the
the east, and con- church burned down and
tinues on the west R Cathedral of the only the chapel of St Ignatius
bank of the Labe. Holy Ghost Loyola, with its wall paintings
The magnificent brick and a picture by Petr Brandl
P Velk nmst Gothic Cathedral of the glorification of the saint,
One of the most Relief from the house of the Holy Ghost was spared. The present
opulent buildings opposite the cathedral (Katedrla sv. faade, graced with two
in the former Ducha), founded towers, dates from 1857. The
market square is the old town in 1307, is evidence of the former Jesuit College, the long
hall (radnice). This Gothic towns wealth in the early building to the right of the
edifice, erected before 1418, 14th century. In 1424 the church, dates from 16711710.
was remodelled in the late 16th
century in the Renaissance
style. At that time it was used
as the town prison. In 1786 it
acquired two clock towers.
On the south side of the
square stands the Bishops
Palace, one of the towns finest
Baroque buildings. Its designer
was Giovanni Santini, who
also designed its magnificent
entrance portal. Adjacent is the
charming, small-scale Baroque
pulak House (Dm U
pulk). It was remodelled in
1750 by F Kermer. The 20-m
(66-ft) column was erected in Interior of the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 H R A D E C K R L O V 199

with sheet copper. It was built VISITORS CHECKLIST

in 19045 to a design by
Vclav Weinzettel, in the Art Road map C2. * 95,700.
Nouveau style, with some @ 1 km (0.5 mile) W of Old
Oriental elements. Apart Town. n Velk nmst 165.
from the prayer hall it also Tel 495 580 492. # 8amnoon,
included the domestic 12:304:30pm daily. OctMay:
quarters of the rabbi, the closed Sat & Sun. _ Folklore
shammash and the caretaker; Festival (early Jun); International
there was also a meeting Jazz Festival (Oct). www.ic-hk.cz
room and space for the
archives. The building served Bohemian Modernism. It was
the Jewish community until built in 190912 to a design
World War II. After 1960 it by Jan Kotra. Inside, through
was acquired and renovated the doorway flanked by gigan-
Entrance hall of the Modern by the Hradec Krlov tic statues, are some interesting
Art Gallery Research Library, and it exhibits, in particular a scale
remains a library today. model of the town from 1865,
E Modern Art Gallery complete with all of its
Velk nmst 139/140. Tel 495 E East Bohemian Regional fortifications.
514 893. # 9amnoon, 16pm Museum
TueSun. & 7 www.galeriehk.cz Elino nbe 465. Tel 495 512 642. P Prask Bridge
The striking five-storey Art # 9am5pm TueSun. & 7 The Prask Bridge was
Nouveau building of the The monumental building designed in 1910 by Jan
Modern Art Gallery (Galerie of East Bohemias Regional Kotra. The 60-m (200-ft)
modernho umni) was Museum (Krajsk Museum long structure replaced the
designed in 1912 by Osvald Vchodnch ech) is one oldest bridge in Hradec
Polvka. Inside is a superb of the prime examples of Krlov, dating from 1796.
and extensive collection of In 191012 Kotra
works by the finest Czech added four pavilions
artists of the 19th and 20th to house shops; he
centuries, including Jan also gave it
Zrzav, Jan Preisler, Josef distinctive lighting
Vchal, Vclav pla, Josef and masts with the
apek and Ji Kol. towns emblem. The
bridge leads into the
u Former Synagogue section of the new
eskoslovensk armdy. town over the river
This distinctive building has a built by Modernist
magnificent dome overlaid View of the Labe from the Prask Bridge Josef Gor.

HRADEC KRALOVE
SMET

TOWN CENTRE
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Cathedral of the Holy NMST

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Key to Symbols see back flap
200 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Street-by-Street: Hradec Krlov Old Town

The historic sights of the Old Town are
clustered around its former market square, . Town Hall
Velk nmst, and the adjoining, smaller The faade of
Mal nmst. Charming streets lined with this three-storey
beautiful houses are juxtaposed with the building is
opulent edifices of museums, churches, decorated with
theatres and palaces. Make a point of the national
going down the narrow street that runs emblem of the
behind the White Tower to see the former
restored historic houses, and then ascend Czechoslovakia.
the tower to gain a birds-eye view of the
Old Town stretching beneath.

St Clement Chapel
Squeezed between the Town Hall and the
White Tower is the Baroque St Clement
Chapel (1716). It would be easy to miss it,
were it not for its golden crown glittering
in the sunlight, visible from any point
in the main square.

The White Tower is the

work of Burian Vlach, in
157489. It offers a
superb view of the town
from the top.
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This Gothic brick church This Empire-style
founded in 1307 has slender covered staircase with
stained-glass windows and a three cupolas was
magnificent high altar. built in 1810 on the
site of the Fishermans
KEY Gate, which once
formed part of the
Suggested route
towns fortifications.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 H R A D E C K R L O V 201

Mal Nmst
In this smaller square is a 1718 statue of
St John Nepomuk with two angels. Its
fine buildings include the houses at No.
129 with Renaissance sgraffito on the
faade, and No. 127 with a beautiful
hall ceiling.

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Municipal Library


The library building with

its beautifully decorated
portal stands next to
Church of the
Assumption of
Klicperovo divadlo, one of
Modern Art the Virgin Mary the best regional theatres in
Gallery the Czech Republic.

STAR SIGHTS
. Cathedral of the
Former Canons Houses Holy Ghost
Seen along the south side of the square are
former canons houses lovely Renaissance . Town Hall
buildings with eye-catching gables.
202 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Amid the lavishly decorated

arcaded Baroque houses in
the long, thin main square is
the Knights House (Dm U
Ryt), with magnificent
Renaissance faade decorations
including vivid knights, mer-
chants and creatures. It now
houses an art gallery. Close to
the palace stands the Early
Baroque Church of the
Finding of the Holy Cross
(Nalezen sv. Ke) built in
1730 by Giovanni Alliprandi.
Architectural decorations on the faade of the Knights House, Litomyl Its faade is winged by two
obliquely positioned towers,
Litomyl 2 Perntejn Palace is to the while the richly decorated
northeast of the main square interior is dominated by larg-
Road map C2. * 10,400. from (Smetanovo nmst). Built in er-than-life figures of the four
Prague. @ from Prague, Hradec 156881, it was included in Evangelists. The originally
Krlov. n Smetanovo nmst 72. Tel 1999 on the UNESCO World Gothic Church of the
461 612 161. _ International Opera Cultural Heritage List. The Exaltation of the Holy Cross
Festival (late Jun). www.litomysl.cz finial-topped building features (nov Nmst) has an inter-
two courtyards. The main one, esting semicircular entrance
One of Bohemias oldest square-shaped, is flanked on portal dating from 1605,
historic towns, Litomyl three sides by three-storey flanked by Tuscan columns.
(Leitomischl) is small but arcades. The fourth wall is
dynamic, dominated by its lavishly decorated with + Perntejn Palace
Tel 461 615 067. # Apr, Oct: Sat,
fine Renaissance palace, and sgraffito. The external sgraffito
Sun, public hols; MaySep: TueSun.
its associations with composer is regarded as the most beau- & www.litomysl.cz
Bedich Smetana (see p22). tiful of its kind in the former
The town was established over Austro-Hungarian Empire. E Smetana Museum
1,000 years ago on the trading Inside the palace, highlights Zmeck Pivovar. Tel 461 615 287.
# Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun, public hols;
route that linked Bohemia with among the many rooms with MaySep: TueSun. &
Moravia. In the 11th century historic furnishings include
Prince Betislav II founded a the Battle Hall and the Great
Benedictine monastery here. Dining Hall. Particularly
The settlement that sprang up striking is the late 18th-century Nov Hrady
nearby was accorded munici- theatre, one of the oldest and
pal status in 1259 by Pemysl best-preserved in Europe. Palace 3
Otakar II; in 1344 the town Smetana made his debut as a
Road map C2. @ from Litomyl,
became the seat of the second pianist in this theatre.
Chrudim. Tel 469 325 353.
bishopric in Bohemia, after Opposite the palace is the
# MaySep: 10am4pm daily; Apr,
Prague. Captured by Hussites birthplace of Bedich Smetana,
Oct: 10am4pm Sat, Sun. & 8
in the 15th century, it became now the Smetana Museum.
a centre of the Bohemian The building used to belong Bohemias most beautiful
Brethren community. to the brewery as Smetanas Rococo palace is in the small
In 1567 the town fell into the father was a brewer. One of town of Nov Hrady.
hands of Vratislav of Perntejn, the towns attractions is the Commissioned by Count Jean
Chancellor of the Bohemian annual International Opera Antonn Harbuval de
Kingdom, who built a magni- Festival in June, which brings Chamar, it was built in
ficent Renaissance palace, the together many outstanding 17747 by a Tyrolean
main seat of his family. opera performers. architect Josef Jger, in the

Nov Hrady Palace viewed from its English-style gardens

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 E A S T B O H E M I A 203

four levels of angels reconstruction. The 14th-

and saints; the church century chapel is decorated
also has some inter- with fine frescoes.
esting side altars. The
+ Lipnice Castle
church tower houses Tel 569 486 189. # Apr, Sep,
one of Bohemias Oct: Sat, Sun, public hols;
biggest bells, Vilm, MayAug: TueSun. & 8
dating from 1300. www.hrad-lipnice.eu
At the squares
centre is a Marian
column decorated Lede nad
with figures of saints
Andrew, Florian, John Szavou 6
Faades of houses in Havlkv Brod Nepomuk and
Road map B3. * 5,600. @
Wenceslas. Nearby is
from Prague. n Husovo nmst 60.
style of a French summer a stone fountain in the shape
Tel 569 721 471. www.ledecns.cz
residence. The sloping site of the Greek sea god Triton.
was used to set off the stately Perched on a high escarp-
character of the building: it ment on the right bank of the
has often been called the Lipnice nad Szava is the 12th-century
Bohemian Versailles. Szavou 5 Lede Castle. Currently it is
The salmon-pink palace being restored, but the ground
consists of the central Road map B3. * 660. @ from floor houses a Regional
building with two wings Havlkv Brod. Museum, with ethno-
embracing a raised courtyard, graphic exhibits and old
which forms a terrace above This village is where weaponry.
the lower floor of the the novelist Jaroslav The town itself, on
entrance section. All of it is Haek lived from the left bank of the
completed by an imposing 1921 until his death river, is dominated
three-part gate dating from in 1923. He is now by the Church
1782. Palace interiors feature buried in the local of St Peter and
original Rococo furnishings. cemetery. It was in St Paul (sv. Petr
The main hall on the first Lipnice that he a Pavel) in the
floor has some interesting wrote the second, Statue of Jaroslav Haek square. Originally
Rococo stuccoes. The third and fourth in Lipnice nad Szavou Gothic, the church
adjoining English-style park (unfinished) was remodelled in
features Baroque Stations of volumes of his comic master- Baroque style. The town has
the Cross, dating from 1767. piece, The Good Soldier vejk. some interesting reminders of
The twin-towered silhouette the Jewish community, who
of Lipnice Castle dominates were forcibly removed from
Havlkv Brod 4 the landscape. This mighty here in 1942; they include an
Gothic edifice was built in the early 18th-century synagogue
Road map C3. * 24,200. @
early 14th century as a fort- and a Jewish cemetery
from Prague. 569 497 357.
ress guarding the trade route established in 1601, one of
Scenically located on the from Havlkv Brod to the oldest in Bohemia, with
banks of River Szava, Humpolec. The main body of many Baroque tombstones.
Havlkv Brod was until 1945 the castle and the tower date
known as Nmeck Brod from this period. After a fire + Lede Castle (museum)
Tel 569 721 128. # Apr, Oct:
(German Ford). The towns in 1869 it fell into ruin. It is
Sat, Sun; MaySep: TueSun. &
current name comes from the currently undergoing extensive
name of Karel Havlek-
Borovsk a poet and a
prominent member of the
Czech patriotic movement,
who studied and worked here
in the 19th century.
The historic centre is
focused on the quadrangular
market square (Havlkovo
nmst) surrounded by
Baroque houses with lavishly
decorated faades. Rising
above their roofs is the massive
tower of the 13th-century
Church of the Assumption
of the Virgin Mary
(Nanebevzet Panny Marie)
with a lovely high altar, with Hall housing an exhibition of sculpture in Lipnice Castle
204 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

leby Castle 7
Road map B2. @ from slav.
Tel 327 398 121. # Apr, Oct: 9am
4pm Sat, Sun, public hols; MaySep:
9am4pm TueSun. & 8 2 routes.
www.zamek-zleby.cz

This fairytale castle has

undergone dramatic changes
over the centuries. In the 13th
century, leby Castle was a
Gothic defensive fortress. In
the 16th century it was
remodelled in Renaissance Flower-filled courtyard of Slatiany Palace
style, and in the 19th century
its owners, the Auersperg rectangular square with a museum is in the towns
family, gave it a romantic Neo- Baroque town hall, and most beautiful Renaissance
Gothic look. The castle sports a houses in a variety of styles, structure the Mydlovsk
massive tower with a pointed from Gothic to Empire. The dm with a two-storey
roof, and an entrance portal Late Gothic Church of St Peter arcaded faade and a slender
decorated with an unusual and St Paul (sv. Petr a Pavel) tower resembling a minaret.
relief of a bison. The Auersperg has a 13th-century presbytery Nearby, on the main square,
family fled at the end of supported by two vast is the Gothic Church of the
World War II, leaving behind buttresses, and fine portals in Assumption of the Virgin Mary
the contents of their home. the west and south walls. (Nanebevzet Panny Marie).
On the courtyards ground Also in the square is an
and first floors are Renaissance imposing Plague Column.
and Baroque arcades, partially Slatiany Palace 8 E Puppet Museum
glazed with lovely stained-
Btislavova 74. Tel 469 620 310.
glass windows produced in Road map C2. @ from Pardubice. # daily. & www.puppets.cz
Germany and Switzerland. Tel 469 681 112. # Apr, Oct:
Palace rooms were decorated 9:30am3pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
extravagantly in the 1840s. The MaySep: 9am4pm TueSun. & 8
palace chapel, built in 18538,
has unusually lavish furnishings A place of interest for all
including Renaissance figures horse lovers, Slatiany Palace
of St John the Evangelist and was built in the 16th century
St John the Baptist, made of in Renaissance style. At the
terracotta in the Florence turn of the 18th and 19th
workshop of Giovanni della centuries it was remodelled
Robbia. In the adjacent game in Neo-Gothic style. In 1947
park are herds of white stags. it became home to an
equestrian museum, unique in
Environs Europe. It has nearly 2,100
About 6 km (4 miles) to the exhibits associated with horse
northwest is the town of breeding. There are also
slav, which has a paintings, prints, sculptures,
porcelain and tapestries
devoted to the subject of
horses; and a collection of
saddles and harnesses. In the Highly ornate ceiling in
large English-style palace park Pardubice Castle
are paddocks used for horses
bred at the local stud farm. Pardubice 9
Environs Road map C2. * 90,600. from
The main reason to visit Prague. n Tda Mru 60.
Chrudim, 6 km (4 miles) Tel 466 768 390.
northwest of Slatiany, is its
fascinating Puppet Museum A large centre of industry,
(Muzeum loutkskch commerce and administration,
kultur). It started with the Pardubice (Pardubitz) has a
collection of Jan Malik, a pedigree going back to the
Czech pedagogue and 14th century. Following great
historian, of puppets fires in 1507 and 1538, the
Bison relief above the entrance to worldwide. The town hosts a town was rebuilt in the form
leby Castle Puppet Festival in July. The that has survived to the present
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 E A S T B O H E M I A 205

day. As well as its architecture,

Pardubice is known for the
production of the explosive
Semtex in a factory in its
suburb of Semtim.
To fans of horse-racing,
Pardubice is known for the
Velk Pardubick a steeple-
chase race held annually since
1874. The course of 6,900 m
(over 4 miles) includes 31
jumps. The most difficult of
them the notorious Taxis
was the cause of so many
injuries to horses and riders
that it has been redesigned
in recent years. The Velk Pardubice market square with the Plague Column and town hall
Pardubick is regarded as
more gruelling than the Grand Nouveau Municipal Theatre Hrdek u Nechanic
National, run at Aintree, even (Mtsk divadlo).
though it is not quite as long. Palace 0
As in so many Bohemian + Pardubice Castle and
Museum of East Bohemia Road map C2. @ from Hradec
towns, Pardubice Castle
Tel 466 799 240. # 10am6pm Krlov. Tel 495 441 244. # Apr,
dominates, and was once the TueSun. & www.vcm.cz Oct: 9am4pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
favourite residence of Emperor
MaySep: 9am5pm TueSun. & 8
Ferdinand I and his court.
www.hradeku nechanic.cz
Now it houses the Museum Environs
of East Bohemia with some On a large spreading plain 5 km
eye-catching frescoes in the (3 miles) south of Pardubice The palace in Hrdek u
Renaissance Knights Halls. is an 8-m (26-ft) high solitary Nechanic is one of the
The town has about 100 hill, Kuntick Hora. The castle finest Romantic buildings
Gothic and Renaissance on its top is the dominant fea- in Bohemia. Commissioned
houses. They surround the ture of the district. Built in the by Count Frantiek Arnot
market square (Perntnsk 15th century by the Hussites, it Harrach, this grand Neo-
nmst). Particularly striking was captured by the Swedes Gothic English-style residence,
is Jonahs House (Dm U in the Thirty Years War. In the complete with crenellations,
Jone) at No. 50, with a early 20th century reconstruc- was built in 183957. The
relief depicting the Prophet tion works started, which are lengthy building works were
being spat out by the whale. still going on. In good weather supervised by the Viennese
The Neo-Renaissance town the 35-m (115-ft) tower affords architect Karl Fischer.
hall, dating from 1894, sports a view of the distant Krkonoe. Particularly attractive rooms
at the top, between two A castle houses a small are the Golden Hall, with
towers, a copper figure of a museum of its history. lovely panelled ceilings and
knight the towns guardian. an impressive fireplace; also
In the towns modern + Kuntick Hora Castle the Knights Hall, which is
Tel 466 415 428. # Apr, Sep, Oct:
square (nmst Republiky) is decorated with laboriously
Sat, Sun, public hols; MayAug:
the Church of St Bartholomew TueSun. &
worked, ostentatious wood-
(sv. Bartolomj), a Gothic carvings along the lower
edifice with a slender spire at sections of the walls and
the centre of the roof. It around the doors. Much of
contains a fine Renaissance the furniture was imported
tombstone of Vojtch of from Germany and Austria
Perntejn, and a monumental in the 19th century.
sculpture depicting Calvary, Around the palace are
dating from 1736. Also in the sweeping, land-
square is the boldly Art scaped gardens and
a golf course.

The romantic, Neo-Gothic Hrdek u Nechanic Palace

206 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Jin w
Road map B2. * 16,700. @
from Prague. n Valdtejnovo nmst
1. Tel 493 534 390. _ Fairytale
Festival (Sep). www.jicin.org

Jin (gitschin) borders the

esk rj nature reserve
and makes an ideal place
to stay while exploring the
surrounding countryside.
Jin reached the peak of its
glory during the Thirty Years
Karlova Koruna Palace at Chlumec nad Cidlinou War, when the supreme
commander of the Imperial
Chlumec nad 1723, following his coronation Army, Albrecht von
as King of Bohemia. The Wallenstein, made it the
Cidlinou q palace has an unusual central centre of his vast Duchy of
cylindrical section and three Friedland. Here, this most
Road map B2. * 5,500. @
radially spreading wings. Inside powerful Bohemian warlord
from Hradec Krlov. n Kozelkova
are paintings and memorabilia built his residence, minted
26. Tel 495 484 121.
of the Kinsk family, who after his own money and dreamt
The pleasant riverside town of 1989 regained ownership of of founding a university.
Chlumec nad Cidlinou is the palace from the Czech All these plans collapsed
known for the Karlova Koruna government. The Chapel of after the assassination of
Palace. Designed by Giovanni the Annunciation (1740) is also Wallenstein in Cheb, in 1634
Santini, it was built in 17213. by Santini. (see p169); yet the town has
The owner, Count Frantiek retained many mementoes of
Kinsk, named it Charless + Karlova Koruna Palace the ambitious duke.
Tel 495 484 519. # MaySep: Tue
Crown in honour of Emperor A silent witness to his
Sun; Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun, public hols. &
Charles VI, who stayed here in unfulfilled plans is the towns

Tour of esk rj e Valdtejn Castle 4

,)"%2%#
The seat of the famous
esky rj, or Bohemian Wallenstein family, it
Paradise, is the oldest protected was partially
nature reserve in the Czech remodelled in the 
2
Romantic Neo- *IZERA
Republic. The scenic landscape
Gothic style
is full of extraordinary in the 19th 0OVICE
geological formations: rock century.
towns, gates and high-rise
towers popular with climbers.
There are also a number of :DgR
medieval castles and an
extensive network of walking 
2
trails. Jin and Turnov make
good bases for exploring. 


Kost Castle 3
This 14th-century +NMOST
fortress is domi-
nated by a 32-m
(105-ft) high White 
Tower, with nearly 
4-m (13-ft) thick
2

walls. Used origi- KEY

nally as the final
Tour route
refuge of the castles
defenders, it now -,!$ Other road
houses a museum "/,%3,!6
Viewpoint
of torture.
02!'5%

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 E A S T B O H E M I A 207

square, built by Valdice Gate (Valdick The monastery was turned

Wallenstein and now brna). At 52 m (170 ft) into a prison by the
named after him high, its tower affords Habsburgs, used later by
Valdtejnovo a lovely view of the the Communists to house
nmst. It is town from the top. political prisoners, and it
surrounded on all Close to Valdice still serves as a top-security
sides by superb and Gate is Rumcajs prison, one of the harshest
well-preserved 17th- Cobbler House in Bohemia.
century arcaded Coat of arms at which consists of a
houses. Standing at Jin Castle craft workshop, play- E Regional Museum
the southeast corner room for children, a Tel 493 532 204. # TueSun. &
of the square is the former herb garden and a small E Valdice Gate
ducal castle, now housing a shop with local souvenirs. # Apr: Sat & Sun; MaySep:
Regional Museum. The most daily. &
interesting of its historic Environs
interiors is the Conference Wallenstein ordered
Hall where Tsar Alexander I the planting of an
of Russia, King Frederick avenue of over
William III of Prussia and 1,200 lime trees in
Emperor Francis I of Austria two straight lines
formed the Holy Alliance over 2 km (1 mile)
against Napoleon in 1813. long, leading from
The Jesuit Church of St Jin to his 1630 park
James the Great (sv. Jakuba pavilion, known as
Vtho) beside the castle is Libosad. This is now
of Baroque design, and dates a quiet, somewhat
from 1627. Just to the west of overgrown spot.
the main square is the 14th- Near Libosad is the
century Church of St Ignatius town of Valdice
(sv. Ignce). (Walditz), with its
The towns tallest building is 17th-century Baroque
the 16th-century quadrangular Carthusian monastery. Interior of the Church of St James, Jin

Trosky 6 TIPS FOR DRIVERS

The imposing castle, built in
*%,%.)! the late 14th century on two Tour length: 50 km (31 miles).
'2! adjacent rock summits, Stopping-off points: The best
is one of the accommodation and choice of
4URNOV
symbols of the eating places can be found in
Bohemian nearby Jin. On the tour route,
Paradise. the Hrub Skal Castle is now a
hotel with bars and restaurants.
 Hrub Skal Castle 5
This Renaissance castle
-  surrounded by an English-
style park is the starting


point for a 4-km (2-mile)

trek through the
-

 rock town of
Hruboskalsk.
E
HR 
OV
KA


-
 0 km 5

0 miles 3 Prachovsk skly 1

*). Prachovsk skly reserve is a
Sobotka 2 huge rock town featuring
The Baroque hunting lodge, Humprecht, near sandstone rocks scattered
Sobotka, was named after its eccentric amid trees, and several
owner, Count Humprecht ernin. breathtaking viewpoints.
208 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Krkonoe r

The Krkonoe range (Riesengebirge) stretches along the

Polish-Czech border for about 35 km (22 miles). Krkonoe
means Giant Mountains. On the Polish side, the mountains
slope more steeply, while on the south side they open out
into numerous valleys. The Krkonoe National Park
(KRNAP) opened in 1963, an area of 385 sq km (150 sq
miles) within the range, and provides a habitat for many
indigenous species of plants. Particular care is taken of the
local spruce forests, which in the past
have suffered greatly due to environ- Spirit of Krkonoe
+FMFOJB
(SB
mental pollution. A network of Legend tells of a wicked
clearly marked hiking trails, plus and later a benign
hundreds of chairlifts and ski runs,  spirit of Krkonoe,
as well as snowboarding facilities, called Rbrcoul.
make this an excellent holiday 
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Mumlov Waterfall Vrchlab

This 8-m (26-ft) high waterfall on the This small town in the foothills of the
Mumlava river is an attractive destination for mountains has a Renaissance castle,
a walk along the trail from the nearby ski many times remodelled; its owners
resort of Harrachov. included Albrecht von Wallenstein.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 E A S T B O H E M I A 209

VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road map C2. n Svatopetrsk
173, pindlerv Mln. Tel 499
523 656. n Krkonosk 8,
Vrchlab (National Park
Information). Tel 499 405 744.
Emergency (Mountain rescue)
Horsk sluby. Tel 112 or 155.
www.spindleruvmlyninfo.cz

Studnini hora
This is the third-highest peak in Bohemia; its eastern
and southern slopes are notorious for their frequent
avalanches. Snow here may reach 14 m (46 ft) deep.

Rich Plantlife
The varied environment, including mountain
forests, meadows, glacial basins, sub-Arctic peat
moors and ridge fells, supports many rare plants.

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the highest peak in the

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KEY pindlerv Mln

The main tourist centre in
Secondary road
Krkonoe makes an
Other road excellent base for mountain
River forays; its earliest historic
records date back to the
Viewpoint
16th century.
210 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

of one night. Now the Nchod i

remaining evidence of
the towns former Road map C2. * 21,300. @
glory is its magnificent from Prague. n Kamenice 144.
hospital and the Holy Tel 491 420 420.
Trinity Church, both
the work of Giovanni On the major trade route from
Alliprandi. On the hos- Bohemia to Poland, Nchod
pital terrace are figures was founded in the 13th cen-
depicting the Virtues tury. Above the town is a
and Vices; apart from Gothic Castle, subject to
the figure of Fraud Renaissance and later Baroque
Tiger, an inmate at Dvr Krlov Zoo they were all pro- remodelling. Some of the
duced by Matthias interiors date from when the
Dvr Krlov t Braun in 171518. castle was owned by Ottavio
Piccolomini, an officer serving
Road map C2. * 16,400. @ Environs with Albrecht von Wallenstein.
from Hradec Krlov, Prague. In a forest about 5 km (3 miles) Piccolomini was given the
away it is worth taking a look castle as a reward by Emperor
The local zoo is what makes at Betlm (Bethlehem) a Ferdinand II for his part in the
this town such a popular gallery of scenes and figures murder of his commander.
destination. It is one of the representing the Nativity. The Gothic Church of
largest in Europe, and special These were carved by Matthias St Lawrence (sv. Vavinec) in
care is lavished on African Braun directly into the rocks, the town square (nmst T G
animals, including zebras, again at the behest of pork. Masaryka) has a rare 15th-
giraffes, white rhinos and a century pewter baptismal font.
huge herd of antelopes. The The two onion-domed towers,
star attraction is the evening nicknamed Adam and Eve,
safari a ride on a special are 40 m (130 ft) tall. The
bus over the site where the Neo-Renaissance town hall
animals roam free. (radnice) is decorated with
Founded in the 13th sgraffito designed in 1909 by
century, the town itself has Mikol Ale. U Bernka Hotel
several fine historic buildings has an Art Nouveau interior
and an arcaded main square. and theatre auditorium.
The Church of St John the Embedded in the pavement
Baptist (sv. Jana Ktitele) has of Karlovo nmst is a horse-
a 64-m (210-ft) tower. The shoe, reputedly lost by King
Renaissance town hall is Fredericks horse in 1618 as
decorated with sgraffito. he escaped through Nchod to
Silesia after his defeat at the
O Dvr Krlov Zoo Battle of the White Mountain.
Tel 499 329 515. # daily (evening
Statues symbolizing the Virtues,
safaris MaySep: 7:309:30pm + Nchod Castle
on Kuks hospital terrace
daily). & www.zoodk.cz Tel 491 426 201. # Apr, Oct: Sat,
Sun, public hols; MaySep:
TueSun. & 3 routes.
Kuks y Adrpach-Teplice
Rocks u
Road map C2. @ from Hradec
Krlov, Prague. Historic hospital Road map C2. 15 km (9 miles) E of
complex Tel 499 692 161. # Apr, Trutnov. from Trutnov. @
Oct: 9am5pm Sat, Sun, public hols; n Doln Adrpach 26. Tel 491 586
MaySep: 9am5pm TueSun. & 8 012. www.skalyadrspach.cz
3 routes. 7 www.hospital-kuks.cz
The two rock towns at
The history of the founding, Adrpach and Teplice
the growth and the sudden (Teplicko-Adrpask skly)
decline of Kuks is quite are fascinating sandstone
extraordinary. The spa resort, formations, the regions finest.
of European fame, was built The Adrpach rock town can
in 16941724 by Count be explored on a marked trail
Frantiek Antonn pork and that takes in some of the most
visited by Europes elite, spectacular rock formations.
including J S Bach. In 1740, The path leads to Adrpach
just two years after porks lake, and on to the Teplice
death, it was partially swept rock town. The area attracts
away by the rising waters of hikers and rock climbers and Art Nouveau panels on a house
the Labe (Elbe) in the course can be busy in high season. faade in Nchod market square

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3545 and pp3856
 E A S T B O H E M I A 211

Nov Msto The 5-km (3-mile) long section

of prisons is open to the
(Trkovo nmst) there are
Renaissance houses at Nos. 9
nad Metuj o public, who have to carry and 13.
candles to light the darkness.
Road map C2. * 10,000. @ + Opono Castle
from Prague, Nchod. n Na Zdom + Fortifications Tel 494 668 216. # MaySep:
1226. Tel 491 472 119. Tel 442 812 343. # Apr, Oct: Sat, TueSun; Apr, Oct: Sat, Sun & public
Sun; MaySep: TueSun. & 8 hols. & 8 www.zamek-opocno.cz
Set in a beautiful location in
the crook of a river, Nov
Msto (Neustadt) is surrounded
on three sides by water. Its Opono a
astolovice
charming Renaissance Palace s
market square (Husovo Road map C2. * 3,200. @
nmst) has arcaded from Hradec Krlov, Prague. Road map C2. 8 km (5 miles) SW of
houses with joint Rychnov nad Knnou. @ from
gables decorated The beautiful and well- Prague. Tel 494 323 646.
with finials. This preserved Opono # MaySep: 9am6pm daily. &
uniform design of Castle is perched 8 www.zamek-castolovice.cz
an entire frontage of dramatically above
a square is unique in its small town. It Originally a Renaissance
Europe. The unusual was built for the building, astolovice Palace
Castle, in a corner of Colloredo family, was remodelled in the late
the square, was on the site of an 19th and early 20th centuries
originally Gothic, and earlier Gothic in Neo-Gothic and Neo-
owes its present form to fortress, in 15627. Renaissance styles. Its opulent
restoration carried out The only interiors have been arranged
during 190915. The remaining part of with a great deal of expertise
castle interiors Statue of Emperor the original by the current owner of the
provide a unique Joseph II, in Josefov structure is the palace Franziska Diana
aesthetic experience: cylindrical tower. Sternberg-Phipps, who
its Renaissance furnishings The unusual courtyard, with regained the estate after 1989.
stand side by side with Art three-storey arcades on three The most impressive room
Nouveau and Cubist furniture. sides, opens out into a park is the Knights Hall (Rytsk
There are 1654 Baroque on the once-enclosed fourth sl), hung with portraits of
stuccoes by Giovanni Bianco, side. Inside is an impressive the Sternbergs, and featuring
and 20th-century works by collection of arms and a ceiling with images from the
Czech artists Josef Myslbek armour. There is also a Old Testament. The dining
and Max vabinsk among gallery with works of Italian, room ceiling is painted with
others. The corner tower, Bohemian and Dutch masters, the biblical story of Tobias;
called Mselnice, or the and a library of over 12,000 and in two other rooms the
butter churn after its domed volumes. coffers include illustrations
shape, affords a magnificent In Kupka square (Kupkovo from Ovids Metamorphoses.
view. Matthias Braun created nmst) is the Church of the The palace courtyard
the Baroque sculptures by the Nativity (Narozen Pn), features magnificent colourful
bridge over the castle moat. which has a splendid paintings from about 1600,
Baroque Way of the Cross in depicting figures of emperors
+ Nov Msto Castle the ambulatory. There are a and battle scenes, and a
Tel 491 470 523. # Apr, Oct: Sat,
number of beautiful houses, Baroque fountain. There is a
Sun, public hols; May, Jun, Sep:
TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily. & 8
including the Baroque house pleasant, landscaped English-
at No. 14. In Trka square style park around the palace.

Josefov p
Road map C2. * 12,000. to
Jarom, 1 km (0.5 mile) N of Josefov.

One of the prime historic

sites of 18th-century military
architecture, Josefov
(Josefstadt) is a vast fortress
town, erected in the reign of
Joseph II. Ironically it never
played any military role. Its
extensive system of under-
ground corridors, 45 km (28
miles) long, runs on two and
in some places on three levels. The arcaded courtyard of Opono Castle
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 213

NOR TH MORAVIA AND SILESIA

T
his region of the Czech Republic is associated mainly with the
historic town of Olomouc and the industrial landscape of the
Silesian mines and steelworks. Yet it has other facets: the
beautiful mountain ranges of Jesenky and Beskydy; Bouzov and
Hradec castles; a large number of traditional Wallachian wooden
houses; and the fascinating Javosk Caves.
From the earliest days of atmosphere of the days
the Czech state until before vast industrial-
the 17th century the ization took place.
capital of Moravia was Silesia has been
Olomouc. This lovely disputed territory
town, full of historic sights, historically. It was part of
is now a major educational the Bohemian lands until
and cultural centre and an excellent 1745 when Empress Maria
base for exploring its picturesque Theresa lost almost the whole of
environs. The eastern border of Silesia to Prussia. Today, Czech
North Moravia (Severn Morava) is Silesia has its capital in Opava, a
defined by the Beskydy range, a town that suffered severe devastation
region furrowed by deep valleys in the course of the Thirty Years
with fast-running rivers. Beskydy is War and again in World War II. The
the site of an open-air museum much larger town of Ostrava is a
(skansen), the largest and most centre of mining and steel industries
interesting in the Czech Republic, and one of the main economic hubs
located in Ronov pod Radhotm. of the Czech Republic. An unusual
The central and northern parts of aspect of todays Silesia is the
the region are occupied by the presence of a 40,000-strong Polish
Jesenky mountains covered with minority a homogenous native
dense evergreen forests and still community which retains its
maintaining, to a large degree, an language and culture.

Plumlov Palace overlooking Plumlov Reservoir

Astronomical clock at the town hall in Olomouc

214 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring North Moravia and Silesia

The best point from which to start
exploring this region is the historic
town of Olomouc, to which it is worth Javornk
allocating at least a few days. From
here on, heading north for the Jesenky
mountains, it is possible to see the ulov
impressive Bouzov and Sternberg castles Mikulovice
and visit the subterranean world of the
Javosk Caves.
Further east are the Beskydy mountains, JESENK
with their wooden churches and
traditional wooden buildings,
offering walking opportunities Filipovice
ra
and a break from the industrial Ho
ky Vrbno
landscapes elsewhere in the region. Jes en
Hanuovice Pradd
Mravenenik 1491m
Op
va 1341m av
Velk a
Mor a

Losiny
Hradec Krlov Sobotn
Bruntl

umperk
Rmaov Valov

Zbeh

sov Moravsk Beroun

Mohelnice
Uniov
Hradec Krlov
TERNBERK
BOUZOV Litovel CASTLE
CASTLE
JAVOSK O L O MOUCK KRAJ
Priessnitz Park in Jesenk, named
CAVES
after the founder of the nearby spa
NMT NA OLOMOUC
HAN PALACE
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Bouzov Castle 5
Hradec nad Moravic Castle 9
Hranice e PLUMLOV Prostjov
Mora

Javosk Caves 4 PALACE Perov

Jesenk 6
va

Lipnk nad Bevou r

Nmt na Han Palace 3
Nov Jin w Vrchoslavice
Brno
Olomouc pp21619 1
Opava 8
Ostrava 0
Plumlov Palace 2
Pbor q
Ronov pod Radhotm t
ternberk Castle 7

Coach from Nmt na Han Palace

For additional map symbols see back flap

 N O R T H M O R AV I A A N D S I L E S I A 215

KEY
Motorway

Motorway under construction

Main road

Minor road

Scenic route

Main railway

Minor railway
Temen International border

Regional border

Summit

Krnov

Sculptures on the faade of St Wenceslas

Cathedral in Olomouc

Mal
Heratice
OPAVA Kravae
Slavkov Bohumn
Hlun
HRADEC NAD MORAVIC
CASTLE Orlova Karvin
Poruba
Dvorce Mo OSTRAVA
rav Kajlovec
ice

Blovec Havov esk

Tn
MORA VSKOSLEZSK KRAJ
Fulnek ra
Od
Hladk Tinec
ivotice Frdek-Mstek
Odry
Postat
PBOR
Frdlant n. Ostr.
NOV Kopivnice
JIN Jablunkov
Ostravice Lys Hora
HRANICE 1323m

LIPNK
Frentt pod
Radhotm sk ydy
Be
NAD BEVOU va
Radho t
Smrk
1275m
Be
1129m
Valask Mezi

RONOV POD Bl
RADHOTM
Bystice p. Hostnem
Velk Karlovice

Karolinka ilina
Vsetn
GETTING AROUND
Ostrava airport has flights to
0 km 10
and from Prague and several European
cities. After World War I the railway line linking
0 miles 10
Prague with Ostrava was Czechoslovakias main transport
artery and connection with Slovakia. Today it remains one SEE ALSO
of the main trunk-lines in this part of Europe. Around the
region, train transport is good to major towns, but Where to Stay pp3556
relatively sparse off the beaten track due to the mountains. Where to Eat pp3878
Buses are often the easiest means of public transport.
216 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Olomouc 1 R Church of St Michael

erotnovo nmst. # 10am
According to legend, Olomouc (Olmtz), one of noon, 2:303:30pm Wed, 2:30
Moravias oldest towns, was founded by Julius Caesar. In 3:30pm Fri. 8
fact it did not come into existence until the 7th century, The Dominicans, who arrived
when it was a major centre. In 1063 it was made a in Olomouc in about 1240,
soon began to build their
bishopric and in 1187 the capital of Moravia. Its univer- monastery and Church of St
sity was founded in 1573. From 1655 the town became Michael (sv. Michala) on the
a military stronghold. Today it is a prosperous and towns most elevated site. In
vibrant industrial city off the main tourist trail, retaining the 14th and 15th centuries it
its beautiful religious buildings. was destroyed by fire, and in
the 17th it suffered damage
The interior is impres- from the Thirty Years War.
sive with beautiful It was rebuilt in 167399 in
stained-glass windows Baroque style. The architect,
and a vast 1505 wall Giovanni Pietro Tencalla,
painting. The church designed the first three-domed
organ made by edifice in Moravia. Most of
Silesian organ maker the furnishings date from the
Michael Engler in Baroque period, including
1745 is the largest in organs by Josef Sturmer and
Central Europe. Augustine Thomasberger. In
1829 the main faade of the
P Horn nmst building was decorated with
The main square has statues of the Virgin Mary and
at its centre the the Saviour, produced in the
13th-century town 18th century by Ondej
hall (radnice), which Zahner; they are fine examples
was greatly extended of Baroque in Olomouc.
in the 15th century,
when it acquired its
astronomical clock
(see pp212 and 219),
beautifully vaulted
Stained-glass window in St Maurice Church Gothic Debating
Hall and the chapel
Exploring the town dedicated to St Jerome.
The fine historic town centre The huge Holy Trinity
is second only to Pragues old Column (souso Nejsvtj
town in terms of size. Its Trojice) in front of the town
oldest part centres on the main hall is on the UNESCO
square of Horn nmst (see World Cultural Heritage List.
also pp21819), and is sur- This example of European
rounded by a ring of parks Baroque sculpture was
and the remains of the erected in 171617.
medieval town walls. Its three tiers are
This part of the peopled with historic Sculptures in the cloisters of the
city is fascin- figures and saints. Church of St Michael
ating to ex- Standing in the
plore for its market square R St Jan Sarkander Chapel
lively atmo- are three out of Na Hrad. Tel 603 282 975.
sphere as well as the total number This chapel (sv. Jana
its architecture. of seven of Sarkandera) is a Neo-Baroque
Olomoucs fountains. building designed by E
R Church of The largest of them, Sochor in 190912. It was
St Maurice made in 1725 by erected on the site of the town
8. Kvtna. # 9am Jan J Schauberger, is prison, and an old torture
6pm daily. the Caesar Fountain, chamber still runs beneath it.
This huge 15th- Top of the Holy sporting an
century edifice Trinity Column equestrian statue of R Church of Our Lady of the
with two asym- the legendary Snows
metrical towers resembles a founder of the town. The other Denisova. # 9am6pm daily (from
medieval fortress. The church two are the Arion Fountain noon Sun).
(sv. Moice) has a highly unu- and the Hercules Fountain on Built in 171222 by Olomouc
sual architectural detail in the which the hero is depicted Jesuits, this church (Panny
form of an external staircase holding a white eagle the Marie Snn) served until
enclosed within a round cage. town symbol. 1778 as the university church.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
 O L O M O U C 217

has a range of paintings by VISITORS CHECKLIST

Italian artists from the 14th
century onwards, plus an Road map C3. * 102,000.
excellent collection of 20th- 2 km (1 mile) E of centre
century Czech works. (Jeremenkova). Tel 584 722 175.
@ Sladkovskeho 41. Tel 585
R St Wenceslas Cathedral 313 848 (ext. 292). n Horn
Vclavsk nmst. # daily. nmst. Tel 585 513 385.
Not many traces remain of # 9am7pm daily.
the Romanesque church that www.olomouc-tourism.cz
was built on this site in 1107.
The present church (sv.
Vclav) owes its shape to the + Pemyslid Palace
initiative of Archbishop Vclavsk nmst. Tel 585 514 111.
Bedich Frstenberg, who # AprSep: 10am6pm TueSun.
Sculptures on the dome of St Jan ordered its reconstruction to Museum: TueSun. & f 7
Sarkander Chapel be carried out in 188392, in One of Olomoucs most
Neo-Gothic style. picturesque buildings is the
In recent years it has under- Romanesque palace beside St
gone a thorough restoration. Wenceslas Cathedral. It was
Features of its wavy faade built after 1126 by Bishop
are the monumental portal Jindich Zdk. In its day this
including four columns, a was one of the most magni-
balustraded balcony and a ficent works of residential
cartouche with the letters JHS, architecture in Europe. The
designed by Vclav Bender. bishops rooms with their
The interior includes some beautifully carved Romanesque
interesting Baroque paintings. windows and columns have no
equal in the Czech Republic.
E Olomouc Art Museum The Olomouc Archdiocesan
Denisova 47. Tel 585 514 111. Museum opened here in 2006
# 10am6pm TueSun. & 7 and includes some fine
The town art gallery (Muzeum paintings collected by bishops
umn) is in an historic build- Decorative motifs on the pillars of Olomouc. There is also the
ing superbly modernized. It inside St Wenceslas Cathedral Mozarteum concert hall.

Key to Symbols see back flap

TOWN CENTRE
KEY
Church of Our Lady of the Snows 5
Church of St Maurice 1 Street-by-Street see pp21819
Church of St Michael 3
Horn nmst 2
Olomouc Art Museum 6
Pemyslid Palace 8
HO
St Jan Sarkander Chapel 4 VSK Pemyslid
BRO Palace
DO St Wenceslas
St Wenceslas Cathedral 7 VCLAVSK Cathedral
NMST

SK K HO
ELU KO MEN S
STUDENTSK KO

LEG I

1.
CK

JE M
1. M
S LO V E N S K

JE
NI
O N S K

K Olomouc
OLS
Z ME

SOKOLSK SOK Art Museum

V A NMST BISKUPSK
ISO M A R I NMST Train station
DEN REPUBLIKY N SK
1 km (0.6 mile)
W UR M O VA

Bus station
P EKAS K

8. KV K
ITN

TNA Church of Our

KO
1.5 km (1 mile)
ERZ
OPLETAL OVA

Lady of the Snows VS

Church of K KH
IC
UN IV

O
St Maurice

N
EN

U
TR
R

EG
RA

RO S
O St Jan Sarkander
ZT

VA HORN
NMST Chapel
M IC
H AL
SK
Church of
Holy Trinity Town K St Michael
OL
Column N EROTNOVO
M
T

Hall NMIST Bezruovy

L
D

NS

sady
K
A

SK
S

OV
V

N
O

PA
K
B

0 metres 400
EL
O
D

V
Y

PA

DOLN
NMST 0 yards 400
M
L
NS
K
218 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Street-by-Street: Horn nmst

Olomoucs cobbled main square is Edelmann
famous, above all, for its grand Town Palace
Hall, and the remarkable highly One of the most
decorated Holy Trinity Column. Equally opulent buildings
impressive are its three fountains: the in the square is
Caesar Fountain of 1725, the 1687 the Renaissance
Hercules Fountain, and the newest palace dating
the 2002 Arion Fountain. The square from 157286,
is a popular meeting place, especially built for the
around the Holy Trinity Column, and wealthy local
its many sidestreets offer pleasant and merchant Vclav
interesting places to explore. Edelmann.
Hercules
fountain

 
^ $

(^
 (
%, %(${
 $T#)*{

. Holy Trinity Column

The massive Baroque column is
crowned by figures representing the
Holy Trinity. Below is the Archangel
Michael with his fiery sword.

%,

. Town Hall
T!

The magnificent external staircase built

"

in 1591 is decorated with heraldic

,

emblems. The slender tower, which

&

dominates the entire building, affords a

lovely view over the market and the
surrounding streets.

Arion Fountain
The work of Ivan Theimer and a Tuscan
artist, Angela Chiantelli, this fountain
depicting the ancient poet Arion was 0 metres 100
produced in 2002 to a design created by
the Olomouc councillors 350 years ago. 0 yards 100

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
 O L O M O U C 219

Coat of Arms, Town Hall

The shield of Olomouc was
placed next to the town halls
stairs in 1591. It features the
Moravian chequered eagle.

Chapel Oriel
In 1488 the remodelled chapel
of the town hall was given a
lavishly decorated oriel,
unique in the Czech
Republic.
%&"*"%,

!T

$

+
*(
%)

T
$


(
*
0


%,
(
 "
#
Caesar
#
")!T Fountain
The equestrian
statue of Caesar on this
1725 fountain is modelled
on one of Constantine the
Great in the Vatican
Museum in Rome.

KEY
Suggested route

TOWN HALL CLOCK

The first clock was placed
in the Gothic niche on the
%

north wall of the town hall

"$

in the early 15th century. The

^

mechanism displaying astro-

$T

nomical data was added in

#

1573. After damage in World

)*

War II it was remodelled so

that wooden figures of
^

proletarians replaced those of

saints. A mosaic added at the
same time also shows
STAR SIGHTS
workers (see also p212).
. Holy Trinity Column
The clock by Master Hanu with
. Town Hall its new figures and mosaic
220 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Nmt Javosk
na Han Caves 4
Palace 3 Road map C3. 4 km (2 miles) S of
Bouzov. @ from Bouzov.
Road map C3. 13 km
Tel 585 345 451. # JanMar, Nov:
(8 miles) W of Olomouc.
10am1pm MonFri; Apr, Oct:
@ from Prostjov,
9am3pm TueSun; MaySep:
Olomouc. Tel 585 952 184.
9am5pm TueSun. & 8
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Sat,
Sun; MaySep: 9am5pm The maze of limestone caves
TueSun. & (jeskyn) discovered here in
1938 stretches for over 3 km
The palace, with its (2 miles). Part of the subterra-
mansard roof typical nean complex, nearly 700 m
of late 18th-century (2,300 ft) long, is open to the
French architecture, public. Its chambers, some of
was built in 176063 which are more than 10 m
by Ferdinand (33 ft) high, feature extra-
Bonaventura Harrach. ordinary stalactite formations.
Its two ground-floor
wings surround a
courtyard that ends
with a gate leading to
the palace garden. Laid
out in the shape of a
Plumlov Palace beside Plumlov Reservoir perfect circle, the
garden is crisscrossed
Plumlov Palace 2 by four avenues of lime trees
leading to the four points of
Road map C3. 7 km (4 miles) W of the compass.
Prostjov. @ from Prostjov, Riches of the interior
Olomouc. Tel 582 393 217. include the Red and the
# Apr, Oct: 16pm Sat, Sun, public Gold Parlours with Rococo,
hols; May, Jun, Sep: 10am6pm; Jul, Classical and Empire furnish-
Aug: 10am6pm TueSun. & ings; there is also an extensive
library. Large collections of Inside the Giants cathedral,
An astonishing sight, Plumlov Meissen porcelain and the Javosk Caves
Palace is a tall, three-storey stately coaches are housed in
structure (there are two the ground-floor wings, from
further, intermediate storeys the collection of the Olomouc Bouzov Castle 5
inside), which is also Archbishopric.
unusually flat. The entire The palace Chapel of Road map C3. 12 km (7 miles)
faade is lavishly decorated the Holy Trinity took an Mohelnice. Tel 585 346 202. # Apr,
with columns, cornices, extraordinarily long time to Oct: 9am3pm Sat, Sun; MaySep:
stuccoes and balustrades. be completed; the building 9am5pm TueSun (to 6pm Jun
The palaces unusual shape works started in 1672 and Aug). & 8
is due to its history. The 17th- ended 50 years later. In 1834
century prince-bishop Karl it was remodelled in the Founded in the 14th century,
Eusebius of Liechtenstein, Empire style. Bouzov Castle (Busau) was
Lord of Valtice, designed a
huge four-wing palace that
was to be the most beautiful
residence in Moravia. Unfortu-
nately his son, Jan Adam, sad-
dled by his father with the
responsibility of accomplish-
ing the task, was unable to
meet the financial demands
associated with the project.
The family became embroiled
in arguments about financial
affairs and consequently, by
the end of the century, only
one wing was completed and
roofed. This now serves as a
small museum and a venue
for a variety of cultural events. Interior of the palace in Nmt na Han
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
 N O R T H M O R AV I A A N D S I L E S I A 221

probably the birthplace of

George of Podbrady, the fu-
ture king of Bohemia. In 1696
Bouzov became the property
of the Teutonic Knights. It
gradually fell into disrepair
until the end of the 19th cen-
tury, when the Orders Grand
Master, Archduke Eugene
Habsburg, commissioned
Georg von Hauberisser to re-
model the structure in the
Romantic spirit. As a result,
Bouzov acquired the form of a
huge Gothic fortress complete
with towers and turrets.
In 1939 the castle became Arcaded cloister in the courtyard of ternberk Castle
the headquarters of a Nazi SS
unit. After the war it was ternberk Castle 7 vast 14th-century brick Church
taken over by the Czech state of the Assumption of the Virgin
authorities, and now, impec- Road map C3. @ from Olomouc. Mary (Nanebevzet Panny
cably maintained, it is among Tel 585 012 935. # Apr, Oct: Marie), a splendid example of
the Czech Republics most 9am5pm Sat, Sun, public hols; Silesian Gothic. Masaryk Street
popular historic sites. MaySep: 9am5pm TueSun (to (Masarykova tda) is a hand-
Its interiors, decorated with 6pm JunAug). & 8 2 routes. some street that includes the
paintings and sculptures, 18th-century palaces of the
include the luxurious apart- The oldest surviving part of Sobek and Blcher families.
ments of the Grand Master; the castle, the cylindrical The oldest museum in the
the Column Hall; Royal Quar- tower, dates from the second Czech Republic, founded in
ters and Guest Rooms; Chapel half of the 13th century. The 1814, is the Silesian Municipal
and Armoury; castle kitchens remaining buildings of this Museum (Slezsk zemsk
and fortress defence system. medieval structure took a lot Museum). Its opulent building
of battering during the 15th- was erected in 18935 to a
century Hussite wars, and in design by Viennese architects
Jesenk 6 the course of the Thirty Years Scheinringer and Kachler. It
War, in 161848. In the 19th has history, ethnography and
Road map C2. * 12,200. century Jan II of natural history displays. Its
@ from Olomouc. Liechtenstein rebuilt other division, in Hlun-
n Palackho 2. the decaying castle in Darkoviky, includes Czech
Tel 584 498 155. Neo-Gothic style. fortifications erected in the
Now it is home to late 1930s a rare example of
One of the towns the Liechtenstein well-preserved military
in the Jesenky collection, which technology of that time.
peaks, away from includes furniture,
the industry of the paintings, sculptures E Silesian Municipal
lower-lying parts of and fireplaces. The Museum
Moravia, Jesenk second floor has an Tyrova 1. Tel 553 622 999.
(Freiwaldau) has a Relief image of interesting exhibi- # 9am5pm daily. &
castle known as Priessnitz, in Jesenk tion of furnishings
the Water Fortress brought from
for its now-dry moat. It Northern Moravian castles,
withstood a siege by the which after 1945 were closed
Swedes in 1641. The fortress to the public.
was given its present shape
in the mid-18th century. It
now houses the Regional Opava 8
Museum. Perched above the
town, on a hillside, is the Road map D2. * 59,800. @
small spa resort of Lzn from Prague. n Horn nmst 67.
Jesenk, founded by Vinzenz Tel 553 756 143. www.infocentrum.
Priessnitz, who advocated opava.cz
cold-water therapy. It was at
the height of its fame in the The capital of Austrian Silesia
19th century. following the Austro-Prussian
war of 1742, Opava (Troppau)
E Regional Museum started life as an important
Tel 584 401 070. # SepMay:
trading centre. Its most interest- Altar in the Church of the
TueSat; JunAug: TueSun. &
ing historic sites include the Assumption in Opava
222 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Courtyard view of the red castle in Hradec nad Moravic

Hradec nad steelworks closed in the 1990s, E Mining Museum

the city has been cleaned up Pod Landekem 64. Tel 596 131
Moravic Castle 9 and regeneration is underway. 803. # 9am6pm daily.
The centre has been declared www.muzeumokd.cz
Road map D2. from Opava,
a historic zone. Masarykovo
Perov. @ Tel 553 783 444.
# Apr, Oct: 10am4pm Sat, Sun;
nmst, the main square, Pbor q
has one of the citys oldest
MaySep: 9am5pm TueSun. & 8
buildings: the 17th-century Road map D3. * 8,800.
2 routes.
Old Town Hall (Star Ostrava. @ Olomouc, Ostrava.
As early as the 9th century a radnice). Some of Ostravas n Nmst Sigmunda Freuda
Slav settlement stood here. finest buildings date from the 19. Tel 556 455 442.
The fortress, built in the 11th 1920s. They include the www.pribor.eu
century, kept watch over the former Anglo-Czech Bank
Polish-Czech borderland. designed by Josef Goar; The birthplace of Sigmund
Following consecutive recon- the Constructivist Arts Freud, Pibor (Freiberg) is in
structions, including late 16th- Centre (Dm umni), the foothills of the
century Renaissance works now the Gallery of Beskydy. Its market
and late 18th- to early 19th- Arts and Crafts square (nmst
century Neo-Classical remodel- (Galerie Vtvarnho Sigmunda Freuda) is sur-
ling, the castle acquired its Umn), and the New Town rounded by Renaissance
present Romantic Neo-Gothic Hall, north of the old houses with Baroque
form in 186067. Its owners, centre. In Petkovice faades. At its centre is a
the ducal family of Lichnovsk suburb is a vast open-air 1713 statue of the Virgin
of Votice, turned it into a Mining Museum Mary. Pbor is dom-
centre of culture and music. (Hornick muzeum), Fountain in Pbor inated by the tower
Now the lovingly restored where visitors can market square of the Church of
interiors exhibit paintings, see an old mine. St Mary (sv. Marie),
porcelain and mementoes which has a Gothic statue of
associated with visits from E Gallery of Arts and Crafts the Madonna dating from 1400.
Jurekova 9. Tel 596 112 566.
Beethoven, Liszt and Paganini. The former 1694 Piarist col-
# 10am6pm TueSun. &
www.gvuostrava.cz
lege houses the Pbor Museum
with some Freud mementoes.
Ostrava 0
Road map D2. * 314,000.
Ndran 196. @ Vitkovick 2. n
Jurekova 1935/12. Tel 596 123 913
www.ostravainfo.cz

The third-largest city in the

Czech Republic, Ostrava
(Ostrau) expanded rapidly
from 1763 onwards, when rich
coal deposits were discovered
nearby. The development of
mines, steelworks, and con-
struction and chemical plants
turned Ostrava and its environs
into an industrial district.
Pollution was a huge problem,
but since many mines and Houses in Potovna, near Masarykovo nmst in Ostrava

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3556 and pp3878
 N O R T H M O R AV I A A N D S I L E S I A 223

E Pbor Museum
Lidick 50. Tel 556 725 191.
# Tue, Thu, Sun. &

Nov Jin w
Road map D3. * 26,200. @ from
Olomouc. n zk 27. Tel 556 711
888. www.novyjicin.mic.cz

The old part of Nov Jin

(Neutitschein) has maintained
its original square layout
dating from the Middle Ages. The castle housing the Nov Jin Museum
The striking house of Mayor
Ondej epa, dating from Lipnk nad popular for its Wallachian
1563 and known as the Old Open-Air Museum (Valask
Post Office (star pota), Bevou r muzeum v prod). This
features a two-storey arcaded consists of three open-air
Road map D3. * 8,400. @
loggia. The White Angel, exhibitions (or skansen) of
from Perov. n Nmst T G
continuously used as a beautiful traditional wooden
Masaryka 13. Tel 581 773 763.
pharmacy since 1716, has a buildings of the Wallachs of
1790 Neo-Rococo faade. The towns historic core the Beskydy region. The
In a Gothic former castle is centres on its L-shaped market Wallachs were sheep farmers
the fascinating Nov Jin square, lined with Renaissance who lived in Moravia and
Museum with its remarkable and Baroque houses. Its most parts of Slovakia. The
collection of hats, as well as eye-catching buildings are the skansen, established in 1925,
history and art exhibitions. Town Hall (radnice), and the aim to preserve and illumi-
1609 bell tower. The Church nate their culture and way of
E Nov Jin Museum
of St Jacob (sv. Jakub) has a life with examples from the
Tel 556 701 156. # TueSun. &
unique Renaissance tower. 17th to the 20th centuries.
Another place of interest is the From the museum it is
Late-Gothic former synagogue. possible to walk up Radhot
Hranice e Environs
mountain, which at 1,129 m
(3,700 ft) above sea level
Road map D3. * 8,000. from Helftn, 4 km (2 miles) provides extraordinary views
Ostrava, Perov. n Masarykovo southeast of Lipnk, is the of the surrounding peaks and
nmst 71. Tel 581 607 479. largest of the Moravian villages. On its top stands a
castles. This 14th-century Byzantine-style wooden
In Hranice is a recently recon- Gothic edifice was several chapel of St Cyril and St
structed Late- times extended. Methodius, dating from 1898.
Renaissance The drive to the
castle, a four- castle complex E Wallachian Open-
wing structure leads through five Air Museum
Palackho 147. Tel 571 757 111.
with an arcaded gates and across
# daily (some areas MaySep
courtyard. The four courtyards. only). & 8 www.vmp.cz
most opulent The last features
building in the ruins of a Late-
market square is Renaissance palace,
the Baroque whose basement
Church of St John Emblem of Hranice at houses an interest-
the Baptist (sv. the Municipal Museum ing historical
Jana Ktitele) exhibition.
dating from 1763. At one
corner of the square stands
the Neo-Gothic town hall, Ronov pod
built in the first half of the
16th century. Several nearby Radhotm t
houses have interesting
Road map D3. * 17,200. @
Renaissance faades. The
Municipal Museum also lies from Valask, Mezi. n
on the main square; it Masarykovo nmst 128. Tel 571
contains local history exhibits. 652 444.
To the south of Radhot
E Municipal Museum mountain lies a small town (its
Masarykovo nmst 71. Tel 581
name means Ronov under Portal of the Church of St Jacob in
601 160. # TueSun. &
Radhot) that is immensely Lipnk nad Bevou
 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 225

S O U T H M O R AV I A

T
he wealth of historic remains in this region would enthral
most visitors. Around virtually every corner you are likely to
come across lovely towns and villages or imposing monas-
teries, castles and palaces. The stunning Renaissance town of Tel, the
archbishops residence in Kromi, and the Lednicko-Valtick park
and palace complex are all UNESCO World Heritage sites.
South Moravia (Jin Elsewhere in the region there
Morava), once a are architectural treasures
frontier region of the from most periods:
Roman Empire, was the Znojmos magnificent
cradle of the first state Romanesque rotunda;
set up by the Slavs, who the splendid Gothic
arrived in the region from castle of Perntejn; the
Eastern Europe. The so-called Great Renaissance gem of Tel; and
Moravian Empire (see p33) lasted the Baroque castle in Valtice. Besides
from 830 until the early 10th century, the buildings that testify to Moravias
when Magyars made incursions strong links with Catholicism, there
into Moravian territory. In the are also many sights associated with
subsequent centuries South Moravia the history of the regions Jewish
was the scene of some of the most population, including those in
momentous events in the history of Boskovice, Mikulov and Teb.
the Czech Lands. While South Moravias hills and
The capital of the region (and of the forests are similar to Bohemias, the
whole of Moravia) is Brno. This southern part of the region is flatter
university town, the second largest in and more open. Home to fertile
the Czech Republic, is often vineyards, it has a long tradition of
neglected by visitors, but it has a winemaking. Around Mikulov and
pleasant and compact historic centre other southern towns it is worth
as well as a modernist landmark, visiting the historic cellars, and
Mies van der Rohes Villa Tugendhat. tasting the highly respected wines.

Fountain in front of the elegant arcades in Krom gardens

Detail of the Romanesque gateway at the Porta Coeli convent in Tinov

226 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring South Moravia

Brno is the most convenient place to begin a visit. As well as
having some attractions of its own, the city is also within easy
reach of other places of interest, such as Perntejn Castle and
the breathtaking caves of the Moravsk kras. South of Brno
much of the land was once owned by the Liechtenstein family,
who built many of the churches and castles here,
including Lednice and Vranov. The neglected hilly
region in the west is home to the idyllic town Svitavy
of Tel, while in the eastern reaches
beats the heart of Moravias
folk culture. Brnnec
Hradec Krlov

Nov Msto na Morav

Letovice
DR NAD Bystice nad
SZAVOU Perntejnem

BOSKOVICE
Prague Nedvedice
PERNTEJN
Meziko CASTLE
JIHLAVA Rjec-Jestebi
Kianov
Kostelec Kamenice
MORAVSK KRAS
Velk Mezi TINOV Blansko
Stonaov
Tet Velk Bte
VYSOINA Sv
KTINY
ra
Os

Trnava tk
la

a
va

TEB Ostrovaice
TEL Jih
Hory lav BRNO
a
Rosice

JAROMICE NAD Hrotovice

ROKYTNOU CHATEAU Ivanice
Rajhrad
Moravsk
Budjovice Moravsk Krumlov
Jemnice
J I H O M O R A VS K
Pohoelice
Bojanovice
BTOV Vranovice
Uherice
je VRANOV NAD DYJ
Dy CHATEAU
Litobratice
Dy
ZNOJMO je
MIKULOV
LEDNICKO-VALTICK AREL
Hevn
Valtice
Vienna

GETTING AROUND
Brno lies at the junction of major transport routes. The D1
motorway cuts through the centre of the region linking Prague
to Brno, and continuing to Silesia and Ostrava. The D2 heads
south from Brno towards Bratislava and Slovakia. Running
through the eastern part of the region, through Otrokovice and
Beclav, is the main railway line linking Warsaw with Vienna,
Oriel of a house in Tels main via Bratislava, but generally the train network in South Moravia
square is not as good as in Bohemia.

For additional map symbols see back flap

 S O U T H M O R AV I A 227

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Btov e Moravsk kras 5
Boskovice 4 Perntejn Castle 6
Brno pp22831 1 Slavkov u Brna 2
Buchlovice Chateau i Tel 0
Jaromice nad Rokytnou Tinov 7
Chateau w Teb q
Jihlava 9 Velehrad Monastery o
Krom pp24041 p Vranov nad Dyj Chateau r
Ktiny 3 dr nad Szavou 8
Lednicko-Valtick arel u Zln a
Luhaovice s Znojmo t
Mikulov y
SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3567

Where to Eat pp3889

Statue of the Three Graces in
the palace gardens at Valtice

Olomouc
Senetov Olomouc
Ostrava
Vsetn
Holeov
KROM
st
Vykov Frytk

Zdounky Otrokovice ZLN

Vizovice
Rousinov
Morava

Zstizly by ZLNSK KRAJ

SLAVKOV i Valask
U BRNA Ch Klobouky
VELEHRAD
BUCHLOVICE MONASTERY LUHAOVICE
CHATEAU Brumov-
Archlebov Uhersk Hradit Bylnice

KRAJ Uhersk Brod

Klobouky Kyjov
Bzenec Vesel nad
Moravou

ejkovice
Dubany Velk
nad Velikou
Hodonn 0 km 4
Nov Mesto
nad Vhom
Trnava 0 miles 4

Beclav

KEY
Vienna
Motorway
Bratislava
Main road

Minor road

Main railway

Minor railway

International border

Regional border
Lednice castle gardens, in the Lednicko-Valticky arel
228 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Brno 1 the Reduta theatre. Currently

under renovation, this is the
Now the second-largest city in the Czech Republic, oldest theatre building in
Brno (Brnn) occupies the site of what, in the 9th Brno. The Dietrichstein Palace
century, was the main settlement in the Great Moravian (Ditrichteinsk palc), at the
Empire. The city that you see today first developed at squares southern end, has a
fine entrance portal (1700)
the foot of Petrov Hill, where the Pemyslids built a and is home to the Moravian
castle in the 11th century. In 1641, the walled town National Museum, devoted to
became the new capital of Moravia but didnt develop Brnos early history.
significantly until the 19th century. World War II
devastated the city and, despite being totally rebuilt,
Brno has never quite regained its former lustre. Even
so, thanks to its buoyant theatre life and numerous
museums, Brno has become a major cultural centre.

original shape. It was

restored to its Gothic
form in the late 1800s.
Of most interest
inside is the crypt of
the original church.
There are also great
views from the tower.
Sculptures by Anton Pilgram on
R Church of the the Old Town Halls doorway
Holy Cross
Kapucnsk nmst. 5. P Old Town Hall
Crypt # 9amnoon, 2 Radnick 8. # AprSep: 10am6pm
4pm TueSat (also May daily; OctMar: 8am6pm MonFri,
Sep: Mon), 1111:45am, 9am5pm Sat & Sun.
24:30pm Sun. Just off Zeln trh, the Old
The austere faade Town Hall (Star radnice) is
of the Church of the the oldest secular building in
View of the St Peter and St Paul Cathedral Holy Cross (kostel Brno, dating from 1240. In
sv. Ke), near the 1510 a doorway was cut into
Exploring the town foot of Petrov Hill, is typical the tower on Radnick and
Brnos Old Town, with the of other Capuchin churches framed by a superb Gothic
citys main historic sites and elsewhere in Europe. The portal. This work by Anton
museums, is focused around rather macabre attraction Pilgram is decorated at the
two squares: Zeln trh and here are the mummified lower level with figures of
nmst Svobody. Two major monks (dressed) in the crypt. knights and, above, with fig-
landmarks outside the Old ures of the towns aldermen.
Town are the twin-towered P Zeln trh At the centre is the allegorical
cathedral atop Petrov Hill, This square (literally cabbage figure of Blind Justice. A
and pilberk fortress, to the market) has served as a pinnacle above the statue is
west (see pp23031). The vegetable market since deliberately twisted, said to
other sites of interest are the Middle Ages, and has be Pilgrams revenge
Villa Tugendhat and the even kept its original, for being underpaid
Augustinian Monastery. sloping shape. Its main for his work. The
adornment, the main tourist office is
R Cathedral of St Peter Parnassus here, and there are
and St Paul Fountain, is views from the tower.
Petrov Hill. # 8:15am6:30pm Brnos finest
daily. 5 7:30am daily; 9am, piece of P New Town Hall
10:30am Sun; 7:30am Sat (in Latin). sculpture. Made to a Panensk.
The cathedral (katedrla sv. design by Fischer von The New Town
Petra a Pavla), with its soaring Erlach in the 1690s, it Hall (Nov radnice),
towers visible from afar, stands combines the best the seat of the city
on the site which, in the 11th traits of Baroque council, dates mainly
and 12th centuries, was the naturalism, trompe- from the 1700s. It
probable site of Brnos first loeil and theatrics. was built inside a
castle. Originally Romanesque, Among the rather former Dominican
the church acquired a Gothic motley group monastery; the
appearance in the 1200s, but of buildings Dominican
countless subsequent altera- around Zlen trh Eighteenth-century sculpture St Michaels
tions eventually obliterated its is the home of outside St Michaels Church Church stands
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 B R N O 229

nearby. Gothic cloisters E Moravian Gallery VISITORS CHECKLIST

survive inside the town hall. Husova 18, Husova 14 and Moravsk
The first courtyard is skirted nmst. Tel 532 169 131. # 10am Road map D3. * 404,000.
by Renaissance buildings and 5pm WedSun (to 6pm MayOct). & k Hlavn ndra. Tel 541
has a lovely sundial (1728). The Moravsk galerie is 171 111. @ n Star radnice,
spread over three premises. Radnick 8. Tel 542 427 150.
P Nmst Svobody The most unusual collection # 8am6pm MonFri, 9am
Brnos main square buzzes is at the Umleckoprmyslov 5pm Sat (to 3pm Sun). Informa-
with life, its many restaurants muzeum or UPM (at Husova tion also in Ndran 8, 9am
and cafs being popular meet- 14), dedicated to the applied 5pm MonFri. www.ticbrno.cz
ing places. The chief landmark arts. It has some fantastic
is the Baroque plague column, exhibits, including superb
while the architecture around late 19th-century furniture German architect, Ludwig
the square spans 400 years. and Art Nouveau glassware. Mies van der Rohe in 192930.
Its finest buildings include the By covering a steel frame
Schwartz House (Schwarzv P Villa Tugendhat with glass, van der Rohe
palc), with an ornate 16th- ernopolni 45. v 3,5, 11. achieved a superb effect of
century faade decorated with Tel 545 123 611. # 10am6pm linked space both inside
sgraffito, and the House of WedSun. & 8 compulsory. and outside the building.
the Four Mamlases (Dm u One of the most famous Fortunately, alterations made
ty mamlas) (1928), whose buildings designed in the by the Communists did not
four comical Atlas figures spirit of Functionalism, Villa manage to ruin the building.
strain to support the building. Tugendhat was built by
R Augustinian Monastery
Mendlovo nmst, 1. Tel 543 424 010.
Mendels Museum # 10am6pm
TueSun (to 5pm NovMar). & 7
This monastery (Augustinin-
sk klter) has a fine Gothic
church, but it is famous above
all as the place where Gregor
Mendel (182284) discovered
and formulated his theory
of genetics. The monks
contribution to modern bio-
logy was acknowledged only
after his death. A museum
dedicated to his work, known
as the Mendelianum, is in the
Brnos nmst Svobody, with its Baroque plague column (1680) monasterys west wing.

Villa Tugendhat
BRNO CITY CENTRE
VA KO
O
Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul 1 RE MORAVSK
T
LI

A NMST Sady
M
Church of the Holy Cross 2 EROTNOVO
Osvobozeni

NMST VA
N D LO
Moravian Gallery 7 BRA Moravian Gallery
(Mstodritelsk palc)
Nmst Svobody 6 TOV
A
K
JO ITS
New Town Hall 5 KOMENSKHO ZU
JE
NMST
E

JAKUBSK
RO

Old Town Hall 4 NMST

KO

I N
SK

OS
D

R AY

LN
SO
BH OUN SK

O

EV

LI

Zeln trh 3
LN

INO

E LT
KO Z

OVA
YT DV O K
SK R
VA

OV

Moravian Gallery Plague MALINOVSKHO

KOBLIN NMST
(Prakv palc) Column
pilberk
NMST SK
SVOBODY J N

Moravian Gallery
New Town
(UPM) K
VA

Hall NS
S K

PA
EO

RL
HUS

BRAN
ME

St Michaels O
BEN

Augustinian Church
O V

N O VO

Monastery
O VA

PE LL I CO VA Old Town Hall

NSK
STA RO B R N ZELN
0 metres 250 P EKA S K TRH
Morvian
National Museum
O VA

0 yards 250
Cathedral of St Peter Church of the
LEITNER

and St Paul Holy Cross Brno train

station
KO

A N
Bus station
PE

N DR

200 m (220 yards)

Key to Symbols see back flap N
230 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Brno: pilberk
A hilltop castle was built on this site by a Moravian
margrave, the future Pemysl Otakar II, in the 13th
century, but pilberk gained the status of a true royal
residence only 400 years later, when it was transformed
into a mighty Baroque fortress. After the Napoleonic
wars, the castle became a prison and gained a reputa-
tion as one of the harshest symbols of Habsburg
repression. pilberk was also used as a prison by the
Nazis. Displays inside relate to Brno and the castle.
Concerts and plays are staged here in summer.

Coat of Arms
The coat of arms with a twin-
headed eagle and an imperial
crown is a reminder that pilberk
was one of the main fortresses
defending the mighty
Habsburg Empire.

From Renaissance
to Modernism
This permanent
exhibition displays
works by painters
and sculptors associated
with Brno, from the mid-
16th century to 1945.

From Castle to Fortress

The rooms devoted to the
history of pilberk also have
an excavated area showing
some of the citadels earliest
foundations.
Brno at pilberk
This extensive
exhibition seeks
STAR FEATURES to bring to life the
. Chapel history of Brno, from
its earliest records in
. Dungeons 1091 to the end of
World War II.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 B R N O 231

Baroque Pharmacy VISITORS CHECKLIST

From the mid-18th
until the early 20th pilberk. Tel 542 123 615.
# 9am5pm TueSun (to 6pm
century the pharmacy
JulSep). Baroque Pharmacy
belonged to a convent MaySep: 10am6pm TueSun.
in Brno. Its historic Casements 10am5pm TueSun
furnishings include (to 6pm JulSep). f &
hundreds of jars, www.spilberk.cz
instruments and the
original cupboards.

Tower
The tower at the northeast
corner of the castle provides
an excellent viewpoint over-
looking the entire pilberk
area. It is also used
for staging
exhibitions.

. Chapel
. Dungeons Little remains of the original Gothic
This maze of dark, dank subterranean corridors castle. The Gothic look of the eastern
was transformed, in the reign of Emperor Joseph wing, and of the chapel, dates from
II, into a series of unbelievably gruesome prison controversial reconstruction work
cells, particularly those in the north wing. carried out in the 1990s.
232 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

church was built between

1712 and 1750. Inside, the
nave has a definite Byzantine
feel, with its frescoed domes
in garish colours illuminated
by light from numerous
windows. The high altar itself,
crowned with a baldachin, is
a riot of colour. Here can be
found the venerated 15th-
century statue of Our Lady.
The interior is decorated
with works by leading artists
The faade and ornamental lake of the Baroque chateau in Slavkov u Brna of the Czech Baroque. The
wall paintings (1747) are by
Slavkov u Brna 2 Ktiny 3 Johann J Etgens, and the Way
of the Cross stations by the
Road map C3. * 6,300. @ n 16 km (10 miles) west of Brno. Jesuit painter, Ignaz Raab.
Palackho 1/126. Tel 544 220 988. Road map C3. * 770. @
R Church of Our Lady
Ktiny. Tel 516 439 189.
The plains between Brno Hidden amid forests and
and Slavkov (Austerlitz) were, rocks northeast of Brno is
in 1805, the site of the great Ktiny. Home to a castle, the
battle in which Napoleon village is more famous for its Boskovice 4
defeated the Austrians and Church of Our Lady, one of
Russians (see box). Before the the crowning achievements of Road map C3. * 11,400. @
battle, Emperor Francis II and Moravian Baroque architecture. n Masarykovo nmst 1. Tel 516
Tsar Alexander I stayed at the Designed by the superb 488 677. www.boskovice.cz
Baroque Slavkov Chateau Baroque architect, Giovanni
(zmek Slavkov), which Santini, this large pilgrimage The town of Boskovice,
Napoleon chose as his base 48 km (30 miles) north of
following his victory. Brno, is one of the most
The vast, imposing building, beautiful in the region with
with its squat central dome, two impressive historic sights.
has some beautifully preserved The first is the ruined 13th-
rooms. The finest of these is century Boskovice Castle
the Ancestors Hall (Sl pedk) (hrad Boskovice), which was
with its lovely painting and obtained by the Dietrichstein
stucco decoration. It was here family in the 17th century but
that Napoleon and the defeated abandoned by them in the
Emperor and Tsar signed their 18th. The vast structure, one
peace treaty. In the museum of the biggest of its kind in
is a model of the battlefield. Moravia, still has its original
defensive walls, complete
+ Slavkov Chateau with a gate and a tower.
Palackeho nmst 1. Tel 544 221 Nearby is the magnificent
204. # AprMay, SepNov: Tue
Boskovice Chateau (palc
Sun; JunAug: daily. & 8
www.zamek-slavkov.cz
Vaulted ceiling in the Church of Boskovice), built from 181926
Our Lady, Ktiny by the Dietrichsteins. With its
clean architectural lines, it is
the finest example of
THE BATTLE OF AUSTERLITZ the Empire style
On 2 December 1805, Napoleons 75,000-strong forces in Moravia. Of
crushed the 90,000-strong combined Russian and Austrian particular interest
armies near the town of Slavkov. The battle claimed the inside are the
lives of some 33,000 Russian and Austrian troops, and about main hall,
7,000 French. The
Monument of Peace
(Mohyla mru), a
soaring Art Nouveau
pyramid, was erected
on the battlefield,
8 km (5 miles) south-
west of Slavkov, in
1912. The fields
around are scattered
The Monument of Peace with crosses. Gate and walls of the impressive
castle ruins in Boskovice

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 S O U T H M O R AV I A 233

library and Neo-Classical

MORAVIAS KARST
furnishings. There is also
an exhibition illustrating the In the Moravsk kras, as in
everyday life of the Czech similar regions elsewhere,
nobility in the 19th century. the karst formations are the
Boskovice, once home to a result of the action of rain-
large Jewish community, has water on limestone rock: over
one of the best preserved millions of years the water
former Jewish ghettoes in the dissolves the rock, creating
country, encompassing some cracks which are then eroded
80 buildings. These include by the constant flow. Great
the richly decorated Grand cave systems and deep gorges
Synagogue (see p237) on often result. Limestone-rich
Taplova Street. The large water dripping through the
Jewish cemetery, established porous roofs of the caves
in the 17th century, is now often creates stalactites and
overgrown with trees. stalagmites. Moravias karst is
famous for its rivers that repeat-
+ Boskovice Castle edly vanish and re-emerge.
Tel 516 452 043. # Apr, Oct:
The word karst comes from
Sat, Sun, public hols; May, Sep:
TueSun; JunAug: daily. &
the German name of the lime- Stalactites and stalagmites in
stone plateau near Trieste. the Punkva cave
+ Boskovice Chateau
Tel 516 452 241. # MaySep: Tue
Sun. www.zamekboskovice.cz
On the one-hour tour, which Visitors in need of a break
includes a boat ride along the from the geological tour
Punkva underground river, should stop off 5 km (3 miles)
visitors can expect to see north of Blansko at Rjec-
some fantastic stalactites and Jestebi for a look at Rjec
stalagmites, and to gaze in nad Svitavou Chateau, an
wonder up the 1,387-m (4,550- unusual Moravian example of
ft) Macocha Abyss (propast French Baroque built in the
Macocha). To be sure of a 1760s. Part of the attraction is
place on this very popular the collection of 16th-century
cave tour, book ahead in Dutch and Flemish paintings
the high season. It is also assembled by the Salm family,
possible to visit the rim of the original residents.
the abyss separately.
} Punkva Cave
The second, Kateinsk
Tel 516 418 602. # JanOct:
Cave, is the regions largest
TueSun (AprSep: daily). & 8 7
single cavern, measuring
100 m (328 ft) in length. The } Katerinska Cave
Macocha Abyss, created by the third, the Balcarka Cave, is Tel 516 413 161. # Mar, Apr,
Oct, Nov: TueSun; MaySep: daily.
collapse of a cave roof small but has breathtakingly
&87
colourful stalactites and
} Balcarka Cave
Moravsk kras 5 stalagmites. Evidence of
prehistoric human dwellings Tel 516 413 575. # Mar, Apr,
Oct, Nov: TueSun; MaySep: daily.
Road map C3. @ to Blansko from has also been discovered here.
&87
Brno; from Blansko to Skaln Mln. The caves are the big
n Skaln Mln. Tel 516 413 575 attraction but the scenery of + Rjec nad Svitavou
the Moravsk kras is worth Chateau
7 Some caves accessible: phone for
Tel 516 432 013. # Apr, Oct: Sat
information. www.caves.cz seeing in its own right, with
& Sun; MaySep: daily.
its densely wooded ravines.
The limestone karst region of
the Moravsk kras covers an
area of some 85 sq km (33 sq
miles) north of Brno, and is
hollowed out by a vast system
of caves. Four caves are open
to the public, three
of which can be reached on
foot from Skaln Mln (5
km/3 miles from Blansko),
home to the main Moravsk
kras information centre.
The first, the Punkva Caves
(Punkevn jeskyn) are the
largest in the whole region. The French-style Rjec nad Svitavou Chateau, in the Moravsk kras
234 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Perntejn Castle 6
Road map C3. @ Nedvdice,
2 km (1 mile) from Perntejn.
Tel 566 566 101. # Apr, Oct: 9am
noon, 13pm Sat, Sun, public hols;
MaySep: 9amnoon, 14pm Tue
Sun (Jul & Aug: to 5pm). & 8

The road that leads from the

village of Nedvdice, at the
foot of Perntejn, gives an
unforgettable view of the
sheer walls, towers and turrets
of the Gothic castle. This,
one of the biggest and best-
preserved Gothic strongholds
in the Czech Republic, was
damaged by fire in 2005 and
is now only partially open to Barbican of the impressive Gothic fortress of Perntejn
the public. But the dizzying
spectacle can still be enjoyed. of Pedklte. The nunnery, above the castle, namely the
Rebuilding work in the 15th founded in the 13th century, St John Nepomuk Church
and 16th centuries turned the is named after the churchs (sv. Jan Nepomuck). Built in
medieval hrad into a fortress Romanesque gateway on the 1720, this is one of Santinis
so powerful that it withstood west front. Reminiscent of most eccentric works. Both
all attempts by the Swedish French cathedral portals, it is its design and decoration
army to capture it during surprisingly ornate given the repeatedly allude to the
the Thirty Years War. The traditional austerity of the number five: the story goes
various sections of the castle Cistercian Order. that when John Nepomuk had
are linked by a labyrinth of his tongue cut out and was
R Porta Coeli Museum
secret passages, corridors and thrown off the Charles Bridge
Tel 549 412 293. # TueSun. &
winding staircases. The most in Prague five stars appeared
interesting rooms include the above his head. The church is
Knights Hall and the library. in the shape of a five-pointed
There are superb views of the
surrounding hills.
dr nad star, which is matched by the
extraordinary, zigzagging
Szavou 8 cloisters. The interior is full
of images of the saint, with
Road map C3. * 23,000. @ repetitive use made of the
n nmst Republiky 24. Tel 566 five stars.
625 808. www.zdarns.cz
R dar Castle and St John
Located in the uplands of Nepomuk Church
Tel 566 629 152. # AprOct: Sat,
the so-called Vysoina,
Sun & public hols; MaySep: Tue
this industrial town is of little Sun; NovMar: groups only, by
interest in itself. The draw appt. & 8 www.zamekzdar.cz
here is the former Cistercian
monastery, 3 km
(2 miles) north. This
is largely the work of
the visionary Giovanni
Santini, who oversaw
the Baroque redesign
Tinovs Porta Coeli, showing its of the Gothic monas-
Romanesque gateway tery in the early 1700s.
The complex is now
Tinov 7 known as dar Castle
(zmek dar) and
Road map C3. * 8,700. @ encompasses various
museums. The Book
If you drive from Brno to Museum (Muzeum
Perntejn, or take the train (a Knihy) is particularly
lovely route), it is well worth good.
stopping off at Tinov in The most beautiful
order to visit the Cistercian and extraordinary
convent, Porta Coeli (Gate of sight, however, is
Heaven), in the suburb found on a hilltop Cloisters at St John Nepomuk Church

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 S O U T H M O R AV I A 235

Jihlava 9
Road map C3. * 51,300. @
n Masarykovo nmst 96/2.
Tel 567 167 158. www.jihlava.cz

In the Middle Ages Jihlava

(Iglau) grew from a small
village into one of the richest
towns in the Czech Lands: its
fortunes were transformed
by the discovery in the 13th
century of nearby silver
deposits. While the modern
era has certainly left its mark, Tel Castle, overlooking one of the old fishponds
Jihlava retains a fine historic
centre, still encircled by one end is Tel Chateau Pemyslids in 1101 and, in
medieval defensive walls. (zmek Tel), a magnificent the 1600s, transformed into
The cobbled main square, Renaissance building. Inside, a castle. The 13th-century
Masarykovo nmst, is vast. highlights are the rooms with church was heavily restored
While blighted by a hideous superb coffered ceilings, such in the Baroque period but
shopping complex, the square as the Knights Chambers. It retains its lovely Romanesque
has scores of Renaissance also has fine collections of portal, adorned with floral
and Baroque houses with fine arms and porcelain. and geometric patterns. Take
faades, portals and finials. Modern Tel is separated a look at the beautiful rosette
Running beneath the square from the old town by two fish- window in the apse and the
is a maze of catacombs ponds which virtually surround unusual dwarfs gallery run-
(katacomby), originally storage the tiny historic centre. ning outside. The enormous
cellars, which extend for some crypt features 50 columns,
25 km (15 miles). The entrance + Tel Chateau each with a different capital.
Tel 567 243 943. # AprOct: Tue
is in the square, next door The restored Jewish quarter
Sun. & 8 www.telc.eu
to the Baroque Church of St in Teb, between the Jihlava
Ignatius (sv. Ignc). river and Hrdek hill, is on
It is worth having a stroll UNESCOs World Heritage list.
around the rest of the old Teb q With many original buildings
town. Look out for the one intact, it is still possible to feel
remaining gateway in the old Road map C3. * 38,300. @ something of the atmosphere
walls, brna Matky Boi. n Karlovo nmst 17. Tel 568 610 of the old ghetto. Stroll along
012. www.trebic.cz colourful Leopold Pokorn
T Catacombs Street and look inside the
Tel 567 167 887. # AprOct:
Two reasons to visit this richly frescoed Rear (New)
daily for tours. & 8
industrial town are the Synagogue, or Zadn/Nov
Basilica of St Procopius synagga (see p237).
(Bazilika sv. Prokopa) and its
Tel 0 historic Jewish quarter. The R Basilica of St Procopius
church once belonged Zmek 1. Tel 568 610 022.
to a monastery, # daily. & 8
Road map B3. * 5,700. @
founded by reservations
n nmst Zacharie z Hradce 10.
preferred.
Tel 567 112 407. www.telc.eu the

This UNESCO-listed town is

outstandingly beautiful. The
turning point for Tel came in
1530, when a fire devastated
the town. Lord Zachari, the
governor of Moravia, brought
in Italian master builders and
architects to rebuild the
castle. These craftsmen ended
up rebuilding virtually all the
houses in the Renaissance
style, endowing the town
with an architectural
uniformity that has survived
to this day. The main square,
nmst Zacharie z Hradce,
is arcaded and has a fine array
of pastel-coloured houses. At Stained-glass window in the Church of St Ignatius, Jihlava
236 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Jaromice
nad Rokytnou
Chateau w
Road map C3. @ 2 km (1 mile)
away in Popovice. Tel 568 440 237.
# Apr, Oct: 8am3pm Sat, Sun,
public hols; May, Jun, Sep: 9am4pm
TueSun; JulAug: 9am5pm Tue
Sun. & 8 www.zamek-jaromerice.cz

This small town, 14 km

(9 miles) south of Teb, is
dwarfed by the Baroque
chateau (zmek Jaromice
nad Rokytnou), one of the
biggest palace complexes in The colossal Baroque castle complex of Jaromice nad Rokytnou
Europe with a sprawling park.
Essentially a reconstruction despite much rebuilding
work. The interior, mainly
Vranov nad Dyj
incorporating elements of
older buildings, the work Neo-Gothic, has a fascinating Chateau r
began in 1700 and was led by armoury, featuring more than
the famous Austrian Baroque 1,000 firearms dating from the Road map C3. @ Tel 515 296 215.
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Sat, Sun,
architect, Jakob Prandtauer. 14th19th centuries. More
public hols; May, Jun, Sep: 9am5pm
It took 37 years to complete. bizarrely, the castle has a
TueSun; JulAug: 9am6pm Tue
The man who ordered the collection of stuffed animals,
Sun. Garden by appt. &
chateaus construction, Johann including 50 stuffed dogs, all
8 3 routes.
Adam von Questenburg, collected by the castles last
turned it into an influential owner. Part of the enjoyment
centre for the arts. of visiting the fortress is the The village of Vranov is
Among the highlights of a climb up from the village, as overshadowed by its fairytale
tour are the two lavishly well as the great views. chateau (zmek Vranov nad
decorated halls, Tanen sl Btov itself has an unusual Dyj), which is dramatically
and Hlavn sl. Visitors history. The medieval sited on a cliff high above the
can also see the village was rebuilt in Dyje river. First erected in the
library and theatre, the 1930s, following 13th century, the castle was
as well as a large the flooding of the rebuilt to a Baroque design by
porcelain collection, original village during the illustrious Austrian archi-
or enjoy a stroll the creation of the tect, J B Fischer von Erlach, in
around the formal Vranov reservoir. the late 17th century.
gardens. In the Visitors can see how The highlight inside is the
grounds is the the planners tried to Ancestors Hall (Sl pedk),
monumental recreate the layout with its great dome lavishly
Church of St of the old village, decorated with frescoes by
Margaret (sv. Coat of arms above with a market Johann Michal Rottmayr. The
Markty), with a Btov Castle gate square and a series extravagantly furnished and
magnificent dome of narrow streets. decorated interiors give an
decorated with elaborate insight into aristocratic life at
frescoes. + Btov Castle the start of the 19th century.
Tel 515 294 736. # Apr, Oct: Sat,
The chapel is a delightful
Sun, public hols; MaySep: TueSun.
& 8 ^ in some parts.
work by Fischer von Erlach.
Btov e
Road map C3. * 500. @ Environs
In Uherice, 6 km (4 miles)
The village of Btov is set west of Btov, is the Baroque
amid the densely wooded Uherice Chateau (zmek
hills of the Podyj National Uherice). Parts of the build-
Park. Perched dramatically on ing are closed during renova-
a high crag above the Dyje tion work, but the vast English-
river, 3 km (2 miles) from the style park remains open in the
village, is Btov Castle (hrad summer. The chateau boasts
Btov), built in the 11th cen- some fine stucco decoration.
tury to defend the Pemyslid
kingdoms southern borders. P Uherice Chateau
Tel 515 298 396. # Jun: Sat, Sun
The castle has managed to Intricate ceramic artifact in Vranov
& public hols; JulAug: TueSun. &
keep its medieval character, nad Dyj Chateau

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 S O U T H M O R AV I A 237

Jewish Historic Sites

There were more than 136,000 Jews maintained large cemeteries. The best
living in Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia known historic sites associated with
in 1939. By the end of World War II, Czech Jews are found in Prague and
however, as a result of the Nazi Plze, but there are also many sites in
extermination programme, there were South Moravia. The Jewish quarters in
just 15,000 left. The community, which Boskovice, Mikulov and Teb, as
for centuries was an essential part of well as others in Brno, Lipnk nad
Czech cultural life, left behind count- Bevou, Hranice and Holeov, now
less historic relics. Jewish communities provide a valuable testimony to the
built synagogues and other religious part played by Jewish religion and
buildings; they founded schools and culture in the history of the region.

The Renaissance
New Synagogue
in Teb dates
from the early
17th century. Its
recently restored
interior includes
some remarkable,
strikingly colourful
wall paintings.

The restored Jewish

ghetto in Teb
features two synagogues
and a vast cemetery
that contains 3,000
graves, dating from
1641 to the 1930s.

Boskovices Grand
Synagogue, built in
1698, features lavish
Baroque decoration.
Used as a storehouse
under Communist rule,
this fine building has
now been restored
(see p233).

Mikulov, which, from the 16th

century, was the seat of Moravias
chief rabbi, has a vast overgrown
cemetery, with beautifully carved
headstones dating back to 1618.

Brnos hall of prayers, built in Neo-

Renaissance style in 1900, stands at the
entrance to Moravias largest Jewish
cemetery. It is the site of some 9,000 tomb-
stones, many of them brought here from
17th- and 18th-century cemeteries.
238 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Castle towering above the red rooftops of Mikulov

Znojmo t of World War II and then has a chateau built by the

painstakingly rebuilt. It is Liechtensteins, once one of the
Road map C3. * 35,100. @ worth visiting to see the fine Czech Lands most powerful
n Obrokov 10. Tel 515 222 552. vaults, for centuries used to families. The two chateaus are
store locally made wine. linked by a 7-km (5-mile)
In a splendid spot above the West of the castle is the avenue of lime trees.
Dyje river, Znojmo is one of once thriving Jewish quarter, Valtice Chateau (Valtick
Moravias oldest towns, with a with an atmospheric, over- zmek) is a Baroque reworking
warren of small streets at its grown cemetery on Brnnsk. of a Renaissance palace,
heart. The best of its historic designed by the leading archi-
sights is the Romanesque + Mikulov Castle tects of the early 18th century,
Tel 519 309 019. # AprOct: Tue
Rotunda of St Catherine among them J B Fischer von
Sun. &
(sv. Kateiny), with some Erlach. Its state rooms are
beautifully preserved frescoes furnished with Baroque and
and portraits of Pemyslid Rococo flamboyance.
princes. The rotunda is inside Lednice Chateau (zmek
Znojmo Castle (Znojemsk Lednicko-Valtick Lednice) is a Neo-Gothic,
hrad), a large part of which arel u fairytale creation dating from
is now a brewery. the mid-1800s, with heavily
Znojmos Gothic Cathedral Road map C3. @ Valtice & Lednice. panelled and richly furnished
of St Nicholas (sv. Mikul) to Valtice from Mikulov. Valtice interiors. The other big
has a charming Baroque n Nmst Svobody 4. Tel 519 352 attraction of Lednice is the
pulpit in the shape of a 978. Lednice n Zmeck nmst landscaped grounds, complete
vast globe. 68. Tel 519 340 986. www.radnice- with lakes and a 60-m (196-ft)
valtice.cz; www.lednice.cz minaret, the tallest of its kind
+ Znojmo Castle outside the Islamic world.
Tel 515 282 211. Near the Austrian border
# Apr: Sat & Sun; MaySep: Tue + Valtice Chateau
are Valtice and Lednice, two
Sun. & 7 limited access. Tel 519 352 423. # Apr, Oct: Sat &
www.znojmuz.cz
towns linked by the Sun; MaySep: TueSun. & 8
Lednicko-Valtick arel a www.valtice.cz
beautiful UNESCO-listed park
scattered with follies such as + Lednice Chateau
Tel 519 340 120. # Apr, Oct: Sat &
Mikulov y temples, artificial ruins, arches
Sun; MaySep: TueSun. & 8
and colonnades. Each town
Road map C3. * 7,500. @
n Nmst 1. Tel 519 510 855.
www.mikulov.cz
Built on a hillside close to
the Austrian border east of
Znojmo, Mikulov is picture-
postcard pretty. The town is
full of delightful streets, with
some fine Renaissance and
Baroque houses. Mikulov
Castle (zmek Mikulov), 13th-
century but much altered, was
burned down by the retreat-
ing Germans in the final days Colonnade, one of the follies in the grounds of Valtice Chateau

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 S O U T H M O R AV I A 239

Buchlovice
Chateau i
Road map D3. @ Tel 572 434 240.
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm TueSun;
May, Jun, Sep: 9am5pm TueSun;
Jul, Aug: 9am6pm daily. & 7
www.zamek-buchlovice.cz

East of Brno on the fringes

of the Chiby hills is the
delightful Buchlovice Chateau. View of Buchlovice Chateau from the garden
Built in the 18th century by
the Italian architect D Martinelli Krom p Moravias largest spa town.
in the style of a country The springs of Luhaovice Spa
house, it consists of two See pp24041. are used to treat digestive,
symmetrical semicircular metabolic and respiratory
buildings set around a central disorders. For most visitors,
octagon. Inside are some Zln a however, the main reason to
opulently furnished rooms, come here is to admire the
while outside is a magnificent Road map D3. * 77,300. @ work of Duan Jurkovi, the
Baroque garden, with an n Nmst Mru 12. Tel 577 630 272. Slovak architect who brought
impressive array of trees, his folk-inspired Art Nouveau
rhododendrons and fuchsias. The history of this town is style to Luhaovice in the
inextricably linked with early 20th century. Most
Tom Bata, who founded a notable is the Jurkoviv dm.
shoe factory here in 1894. He
invited a group of architects Luhaovice Spa
Lzesk nmst 436. Tel 577 682
to build a town to house his
111. www.spaluhacovice.cz
workers, and as a result
several Functionalist buildings
sprang up here in the 1920s
and 30s. While Zln has lost the
utopian feel of a planned city,
it has a unique atmosphere.
Zln is the birthplace of the
playwright Tom Stoppard,
who fled the Nazis with his
family and settled in England.

Velehrads monastery church

Luhaovice s
Road map D3. * 5,500. @
Velehrad n Masarykova 950. Tel 577 133 980.

Monastery o Less grand than the spa

towns of west Bohemia, Luhaovice, an unpretentious spa
Road map D3. @ Tel 603 793 532.
Luhaovice is nonetheless town with Art Nouveau villas
# 7am6pm daily. &

Velehrad has one of the MORAVIAS WINE

Czech Republics most The wine-making tradition in Moravia dates back
popular pilgrimage centres, to the 13th century. The local climate favours the
in the form of its Cistercian late ripening of grapes, producing wines with a
Monastery (klter Cistercik). full, spicy flavour. Most of the vineyards are
Founded in the 1200s, it com- given over to white grape varieties. The best
memorates the work of saints known are Veltlinsk zelen, with an aromatic
Cyril and Methodius (see honey flavour and Mller-Thurgau, with a
p33). The present monastery smooth, medium-sweet flavour and low acidity.
buildings are 18th-century When travelling around, especially near Mikulov,
Baroque, though the church look out for the sklepy, or wine cellars, where
follows the shape of the first you can taste and buy wine. The region is a
Romanesque building. There hive of activity during the grape harvest.
are some exquisitely carved
stalls and a lapidarium, with White wine from a Moravian wine producer
remains of the original church.
240 C Z E C H R E P U B L I C R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Krom p

This is an appealing yet quite sleepy town, with

some lovely and extensive gardens as well as
fine architecture many of the buildings in the
heart of Krom, still partially enclosed within
the original walls, have survived the Communist
period relatively unscathed. The main square,
Velk nmst, has been carefully restored in
the last ten years and is one of the prettiest in
Moravia. The main attraction, just north of the
square, is the magnificent, UNESCO-listed North Faade
palace of the bishops of Olomouc, who had their The north front has a portico that
seat here between the 12th and 19th centuries. doubles as a balcony. The formal
garden below links up with
the landscaped
grounds.

Bedroom
The bedroom and the
adjacent study form the
Winter Quarters. The
pseudo-Renaissance
19th-century furniture
came from Venice.

The Vassals Hall

The magnificent ceiling fresco (1759) in the
Main
hall (Mansky sl) is the work of Viennese entrance
artist F A Mauelbertsch. He was paid 12,300
ducats, an incredible sum at the time.
ARCHBISHOPS PALACE
The vast Baroque palace (Arcibiskupsk
zmek) has some splendidly furnished
rooms whose Rococo flourishes featured
in Milo Formans film Amadeus. It also
houses the impressive art collection of the
Throne Room Liechtenstein family, a major influence in
The throne and the the town. This collection (the second
baldachin were used largest in the republic) features some
by the Olomouc superb works of art, including The Flaying
archbishops. Other of Marsyas, a famous painting by Titian,
furnishings here date and King Charles I and his wife Henrietta
from the late Maria by Van Dyck. Veronese and Cranach
18th century. are among the other painters represented.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3567 and pp3889
 S O U T H M O R AV I A 241

. Assembly Hall VISITORS CHECKLIST

The name of this superb
Rococo room alludes to Road map D3. * 29,400.
@ Palace Tel 573 502 011.
talks held here by the exiled
# Apr, Oct: 9am4pm Sat &
Austrian Imperial Parlia- Sun; May, Jun, Sep: 9am5pm
ment in 18489, during TueSun; Jul, Aug: 9am6pm
which they drafted a new TueSun. Or by appt. & 8
constitution. This became 3 routes. Garden # JunOct:
famous for its stated princi- 7am7pm daily; NovMar: 7am
ple: All the power within the 4pm daily. when raining.
state stems from the people. www.azz.cz

Throne
room
The tower soars
84 m (280 ft) above
ground level.

North
faade

. Imperial Room
The portraits in this room include
one of Franz Josef I, who was one of
the many distinguished visitors to
the palace. The emperor and Tsar
Alexander III went hunting
together here and their trophies
can be seen in the Hunting Hall.

Staircase
Accessed via a fine staircase is the
palaces art gallery (Zmeck
obrazrna), which has an
impressive collection of European
paintings from the 16th and
17th centuries.

Library
The library rooms were laid out in
1694. Still in beautiful condition, they
house 90,000 volumes dating from the
16th and 17th centuries.

STAR FEATURES
. Assembly Hall
. Imperial Room
INTRODUCING
SLOVAKIA

DISCOVERING SLOVAKIA 244245

PUTTING SLOVAKIA ON THE MAP 246247
A PORTRAIT OF SLOVAKIA 248255
SLOVAKIA THROUGH THE YEAR 256259
THE HISTORY OF SLOVAKIA 260267
244 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

DISCOVERING SLOVAKIA
S lovakia, tagged on to the
southeast end of the Czech
Republic in the heart of
Central Europe, combines a
dynamic economy with a wealth
Austria and Hungary. The Small
Carpathian mountain range runs
through West Slovakia and boasts
a blossoming viticulture while
Central Slovakias lush valleys
of natural assets: mountains, are home to medieval mining
lakes, unspoilt valleys and towns and villages nestling in the
meadows, spectacular ice caves shelter of the mighty Tatras
and national parks. The capital, mountains. In the east, the region
Bratislava, sits at the western tip Fountain in is dotted with dozens of caves
of the country and borders both Bratislava and quaint wooden churches.

BRATISLAVA

Historic Old Town

Architectural treasures
Romantic ruins of Devn
Winemaking region

Spectacularly located on
the Danube River between
Vienna and Budapest,
Bratislava effortlessly com-
bines the history, culture,
architecture and cuisine of
three very different nations:
Slovakia, Austria and Hungary.
History and hedonism
intertwine in the Slovak The cobbled streets of Bratislavas Old Town
capitals Old Town (see
pp2767) where, in the Cathedral (see pp2801), a
warmer months, cafs set Gothic treasure. The pretty WEST SLOVAKIA
their tables outside, in front pink Primates Palace (see
of ancient Baroque palaces. pp2789) is a fine example Castles and romantic palaces
The Old Towns pedestrian of Neo-Classical architecture, Trnavas religious treasures
cobbled streets are ideal for while the Little Blue Church Pietanys spa
strolling around and the (see p284) is an unusual Art
centre boasts an impressive Nouveau building. The sun-drenched plains
variety of architectural styles To the northwest of of West Slovakia were once
from the turreted Castle (see Bratislavas urban sprawl and the scene of conflict in
p278) on the north embank- upstream on the Danube is Slovakias busy history.
ment of the Danube to the Devn (see p285), a ruined Eighteenth-century Hungarian
pocket-sized St Martins castle teetering on a high nobles built many palaces
crag above the river. The and castles only to ruin them
castle and surrounding in the heat of battle. Some,
region are popular among like Mojmrovce Palace (see
nature lovers and sports pp3045), have been
enthusiasts, and the riverside restored as luxury hotels,
paths offer an idyllic retreat located in magnificent park
from the summer heat. surroundings. Others, such
The local winemaking as Beckov Castle and achtice
tradition of the Small Carpa- Castle (see pp3001), are
thian mountains has its roots testimony-in-rubble to the
in the town of Raa (see p285) regions turbulent past. The
on Bratislavas outskirts. Grape latter is where Blood
harvest festivals are held here Countess Elizabeth Bthory
and in Modra (see p286). The was walled up as punish-
crisp white wines from this ment for her bloodthirsty
region are of good quality and behaviour.
Dining out on one of Bratislavas excellent value; vineyards are The town of Trnava (see
pedestrianized streets, Old Town dotted around the area. pp2969) has a magnificent

The idyllic scenery of Pribylina at the foothills of the Western Tatras

 D I S C O V E R I N G S L O VA K I A 245

Beautiful scenery of the popular Tatras Mountains

collection of religious build- is a village of timber houses

ings as well as a vibrant where traditional crafts and EAST SLOVAKIA
student population, while the rural pursuits can still be
historic towns of Trenn (see seen. Nearby imanys (see Koices cultural gems
p301) and Nitra (see p304) p322) remarkable cottage Amazing limestone caves
are guarded by impressive wall decorations are the Ruins of Spi Castle
castles perched on hills above most famous surviving
the towns. Like Trnava, examples of Slovak folk Slovakias second-largest city,
Trenn and Nitra have lively architecture. Koice (see pp32831) is
pubs, cafs and clubs, dedicat- The historic mining towns graced with a fine collection
ed to the youthful population. of Bansk tiavnica (see p314), of historic buildings along its
The famous spa resort of Bansk Bystrica (see pp31013) main street, Hlavn. The jewel
Pietany (see p300) provides and Kremnica (see p315) all in the crown is the Gothic
refuge at the restored Art have vibrant, youthful centres masterpiece, St Elizabeths
Nouveau Thermia Palace (see as well as some of the coun- Cathedral (seep328).
p360), Slovakias first five-star trys best historic monuments East of Koice is the town
spa hotel, set on an island in to gold, silver and copper of Svidnk (see p333) which
the Vh River. mining from the Middle Ages. is home to some of the re-
Nature lovers and sports nowned wooden buildings
enthusiasts flock to the Tatras of the Greek-Catholic
Mountains (see pp31617) Ruthenian community. The
where skiing, hiking, caving towns of Bardejov (see p333)
and rafting can be enjoyed in and Levoa (see pp3345) offer
glorious surroundings. beautiful squares flanked by
The region also has its fair Renaissance buildings while
share of chteau-like palaces, the Slovak Karst (see pp3367)
such as the turreted Bojnice region includes an extensive
Castle (see pp32021), which and unusual cave system.
was built by nobles in the Popular among visitors are
18th and 19th centuries. the imposing ruins of Spi
These buildings provide a Castle (see pp3389) which
Imposing ruins of Beckov Castle, good insight into Slovakias are visible for miles and offer
West Slovakia complicated history. spectacular views.

CENTRAL SLOVAKIA

Intriguing folk museums

Historic mining towns
Spectacular Tatras
Mountains

The fertile central region is

dotted with isolated and
unusual villages, existing as
living folk museums, and
many are classed as UNESCO
World Cultural Heritage
Sites. Vlkolnec (see p322),
nestled on the side of a hill, Gothic St Elizabeths Cathedral, Koice
246 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

Putting Slovakia on the Map

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more formally known as the Slovak Republic 

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 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A 249

A P O R T R A I T O F S L O VA K I A

F
or nine centuries Slovakia was a province of the Kingdom
of Hungary; later, in the 20th century, it was for 70 years part
of Czechoslovakia. Gaining its independence in 1993, it is one
of Europes youngest countries. Its attractions include its natural
environment, beautifully preserved architecture and rich folk culture.
Although it has plenty of Due to Slovakias mountainous
attractions, Slovakia remains a character, there are consider-
relatively little-known able areas of wilderness, with
country, with few visitors. the environment unscathed
The most popular destination by development. There are
is the capital city of not many other countries in
Bratislava, with its historic Central Europe with such
architecture, shops and visitor large areas of unspoilt
facilities. Lovers of good wine mountains, meadows and
will most likely be familiar Decorative ancient forests. There are
clay hive
with the region of the Small also deep gorges, spectac-
Carpathians, which tradition- ular caves and meandering
ally produces very drinkable Slovak rivers. Almost one half of the land is
wine; winter sports enthusiasts devoted to agriculture, while mineral
crowd into ski resorts in the Tatras resources include iron, brown coal,
mountains, and in the Mal (Small) copper, magnesium and salt.
and Velk (Great) Fatra ranges.
Slovaks, particularly the young, are FOLK CULTURE
generally welcoming and hospitable In Slovakia, traditional folk culture
to visitors, and proud of their forms a part of everyday life and
country and its history. customs. Costumes in a variety of

Nuns in St Nicholass Square, Trnava, West Slovakia

Illustration from the life of Jnok, the popular Slovak Robin Hood figure, by Ludovit Kamenik (1959)
250 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

View from Bratislava Castle of the Danube with the New Bridge on the right

styles, ornaments and colours are not the dramatic national conflict that
confined to museums; they are also arose in the second half of the 19th
worn (particularly in Central and century. The situation of the Roma
Eastern Slovakia) during local minority, the second-largest
festivities and celebrations, especially at about 350,000, is hard. In
by the women. Pottery, basket work many regions, mainly in the
and other handmade products are east, large Roma commu-
still used in many homes for nities live in great poverty,
everyday purposes. Wooden folk without any prospect of
buildings exist in situ and are also improving their lot.
preserved in open-air museums to
form traditional villages or skansen. RELIGIOUS LIFE
Slovakia, as opposed to
ETHNIC MINORITIES the secularized Czech
Of Slovakias population of 5.4 Republic, is a country
million, over 85 per cent are Slovaks, where religious life and
according to official statistics. The traditions remain very
most significant minorities are the strong. The majority of the
Hungarians, found mainly in the population, nearly 70 per
south, Roma (Gypsies), Ukrainians, cent, declare themselves to
Czechs, Poles, and Ruthenians be Roman Catholics, but
(Rusyns) in the east. Slovak- there are sizeable Statue of St Cyril, by
Hungarian relations are now friendly, groups attached to Jozef Bart

but until recently there were scars of Protestant (7 per

cent), Greek Orthodox and United
Reformed (both 4 per cent) churches.
Only 13 per cent of Slovaks regard
themselves as atheists. Devotion to
religious life is evident not only at
times of religious feasts and colourful
celebrations. Churches throughout
the country, particularly in smaller
towns and villages, fill up with the
faithful during Sunday mass and
Roma children in Svina other services.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S L O VA K I A 251

INDEPENDENCE
The 19th-century process of
national rebirth strength-
ened the feeling of national
identity among Slovaks and
consolidated their aspira-
tions to become an inde-
pendent nation. The
desire for autonomy within
the Austro-Hungarian Empire
and later Czechoslovakia,
voiced by consecutive Chairlift station in Skalnat pleso, the High Tatras
generations of politicians,
had never been realized. Ironically, enthusiasts will appreciate the local
the first opportunity to achieve a skiing conditions the best in
semblance of independence arose Central Europe. Marked cycle routes
within the puppet state created of 3,500 km (2,175 miles) allow
according to Hitlers wishes in 1939; cyclists to undertake long-distance
the Slovak National Uprising against expeditions, while several thousand
the Germans of 1944 is a key event hiking trails lead through the most
in the national con- beautiful mountainous
sciousness. The dream of areas. Liptovsk mara and
independence came true other artificial reservoirs
only through the Velvet offer good sailing and
Divorce, following the windsurfing; the waters of
break-up of Czechoslovakia the Vh, Hron and Nitra
in January 1993. Slovakia rivers enable white water
became a member of the Slovak Republic in the rafters to indulge their
EU and NATO in 2004. European Union popular passion.
Beautiful churches in
SLOVAKIAS DIVERSE ATTRACTIONS styles ranging from the Romanesque
An undeniable trump card of modern to Art Nouveau are a feature of many
Slovakia is the wide range of towns and cities. In the Slovak
attractions it offers to those interested landscape numerous castles and
in outdoor activities. Winter sports ruined fortresses stand out. Those in
lowland areas such
as Spi Castle have
huge fortifications.
Those in the moun-
tains, such as Oravsk,
mostly cling, like
eagles nests, to the
rocks. The abundance
of castles testifies to
the regions turbulent
history, a history that
makes an essential and
vivid contribution to
St Martins Cathedral in Spisk Kapitula, East Slovakia Slovakias appeal.
252 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

Landscape and Wildlife of Slovakia

Slovakia surprises visitors with
its diversity of scenery and wealth
of wildlife. Mountains and
highlands constitute over 60
per cent of the countrys area.
Many of these mountainous areas
have been given National Park
Alpine status to protect the landscape and
orchid wildlife, but also to allow visitors
access to these rewarding areas.
Slovakias mountain ranges form part of the
huge Carpathian range. The Central
Carpathians include Slovakias highest Dunajec river valley in the Pieniny National
mountain massif the Tatras. Park, Central and East Slovakia

LOWLANDS
The lowland areas are concentrated in the
south of the country. In the southwest, dunes
and forests growing on sandy soil dominate.
The areas further to the east, including the
Danube Lowland, where the Vh joins the
Danube, and the East Slovakian Lowland, are
intensely farmed. The most popular crops,
besides cereals, include sugar beet, tobacco,
hops, rape and sunflowers.

Water chestnuts
were eaten in times of
famine. They grow in
ponds and old river
beds, including the
valleys of the
Danube, Cisa and Sunflowers are widely cultivated throughout
Latorica rivers, but Slovakia. In the summer, when the crops flower, vast
are becoming areas of the Danube Lowland and East Slovakian
increasingly rare. Lowland are covered with a yellow carpet.

THE KARST REGION

Slovensk kras, the Slovak Karst region, is a limestone plateau
that occupies the southern part of the Slovensk Rudohorie
mountains, close to the Hungarian border. The area has been
shaped by surface and underground waters, as they cut their
way through the limestone rock. The scenery here is extremely
diverse in terms of karst formations, with ravines, funnels,
and numerous caves containing stalactites and stalagmites.

Jasovsk jaskya, a
cave with particularly
lovely stalactites, is
home to several
species of bats.

Dwarf irises, small perennial

rhizomatous plants with
purple, yellow, white or
pinkish flowers, growing
Slovensk kras is the largest legally wild in the Slovak Karst and
protected karst area in Central Europe. other areas, are now in serious
Brown bears and wolves roam here. danger of extinction.
 A P O R T R A I T O F S L O VA K I A 253

FORESTS
It is estimated that forests cover over 30 per
cent of Slovakias territory. In the mountainous
regions the forests are predominantly natural,
with spruce, sycamore and beech; lower
sections are covered with oak forests. Pine
and mixed forests have colonized the poorer
soils. Acid rain has affected Slovakias forests,
but not as severely as in the Czech Republic.

Turks cap lilies grow

wild in most areas,
but are slightly more
common in the
Carpathians. The Virgin forests survive in some of the more
species is legally inaccessible mountain regions of Slovakia, with
protected. trees up to 130 m (425 ft) tall.

MOUNTAINS Blue sow thistle

The most spectacular and highest of all the Slovak grows in the forest
mountain ranges are the Tatras. Formed of granite belt and at sub-
and limestone, they support a wide variety of plant alpine levels; it has
and animal life, including deer, foxes, boar and lovely purple-blue
golden eagles. Particularly interesting are the flowers, although
alpine grasses, and the meadow vegetation found white and pink
at lower levels. varieties do occur.
It often grows with
the Austrian
leopards-bane in
dense thickets.

The High Tatras are the only alpine group

within the Carpathians and the smallest
alpine range in Europe. They occupy 260 sq
km (100 sq miles) and rise to over 2,500 m
(8,200 ft); the highest peak Gerlachovsk
tt is 2,654 m (8,707 ft) high. The range
includes about 1,000 peaks.

FAUNA
Slovak fauna is not as diverse as its flora but it does
feature many interesting species. Along with the animals
that inhabit lowlands, such as deer, fox and bear, there
are also species typical of high mountain zones
chamois and marmot. Forested riverbanks are home to
waterfowl such as cormorant, heron and crane. In the
areas around the Danube, marshy
meadows are home to the great
bustard, now an endangered species.
The brown bear is the largest
land predator in Slovakia. It is
The lynx, a a good swimmer, and can
predator of the climb steep slopes.
cat family,
inhabits upper
and lower forest The great bustard
zones; it is inhabits Central and
becoming in- Eastern Europe. It is the
creasingly rare. worlds heaviest flying bird.
254 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

Slovak Architecture
From medieval times until the fall of the
Habsburgs Slovak architecture was linked
with Hungarian culture. The south of the
country also looked to Vienna for its
inspiration, while the north tended to follow
local traditions. Bratislava, which for a long
time was the capital of the Hungarian king-
dom, acquired many splendid residential
buildings. For centuries the finest buildings in
Slovakia were churches, particularly those
of the Late Gothic, and the opulent Baroque
monasteries. The 19th and 20th centuries saw The town hall in Bardejov, combining Gothic
a rapid development of urban architecture. and Renaissance features

MIDDLE AGES
The predominant architectural
features of the early Middle
Ages were fortified towns and
castles. Small churches were
built until the mid-14th
century. Rapid growth of
religious architecture
particularly in Bratislava and
the Spi region took place
during the 15th century. The
spectacular Gothic churches in
Levoa, Bardejov and Kremnica
date from this period.

St Martins Cathedral in St Elizabeths Cathedral in

Bratislava, built at the turn of Koice (see pp32831) is a
the 14th and 15th centuries, is splendid example of Peter
among the citys finest religious Parlers style, which emanated
buildings (see pp28081). from Prague (see p20).

RENAISSANCE
Renaissance architecture concentrated mainly on
secular buildings: castles, courts and palaces. It
reached its apogee in the second half of the 16th
and the early 17th century. The Italian styles,
modified in Austria, south Germany, and Poland,
acquired their specific local flavour in Slovakia.
For instance, high roofs, ornate attics and plain
undivided faades, with rustication at the corners,
became its typical features.

Thurzo House in Levoa, although

many times rebuilt, has kept some strong
Renaissance elements, including the
loggia, cloisters and buttresses (see p334).

The town hall (radnica) in Levoa, originally

Gothic, was turned into one of Slovakias finest
Renaissance builings in the early 17th century
with arcades and a clock tower (see pp3345).
 A P O R T R A I T O F S L O VA K I A 255

BAROQUE
Slovakia is particularly rich in Baroque architectural
works, some of which are of international standing.
Many were built in Bratislava, the coronation city of the
Hungarian kings, in the 18th century. The royal status of
the city attracted wealthy investors and prominent artists
from Vienna, including G B Martinelli, A G Bibiena and
G R Donner. At that time many monasteries were built
in southern and central Slovakia, particularly for the
Franciscan and Jesuit orders.

The monastery church in Jasov

(175066), with the opulence of its
Late-Baroque architecture, was
The Summer Palace built for the Primate of Hungary, designed by Austrian architect
Franco Barkczy, in Bratislava in 17615, was heavily Anton Pilgram. It draws on Italian-
influenced by Viennas Baroque architectural forms. Austrian stylistic forms (see p337).

19TH AND 20TH CENTURIES

During the past two centuries the development
of Slovak architecture has gone hand-in-hand
with Central European trends. The first half of the
19th century was dominated by Neo-Classical and
Romantic styles, particularly in the flourishing
sphere of residential architecture. The second
half of that century was marked particularly by
the development of urban architecture: apart-
ment blocks and municipal buildings, designed
in eclectic and historical styles. The early 20th
century saw the arrival of splendid Art Nouveau The English-style park that surrounds the
and Modernist projects. Communist architecture Andrssys residence in Betliar (see p336) is
blighted many towns, but since 1989 there has adorned with fountains, artificial ponds with
been extensive restoration of old town centres. cascades, grottoes and a variety of pavilions.

The Manor House in Doln Krup (181828),

designed by Anton P Riegl, is a superb example of a
Neo-Classical residence with a distinctive central
columned portico and side breaks (see p295).

This detail
The Slovak National Theatre in Bratislava from a house in
(see p282) was built in Neo-Renaissance Koice is typical
style during 18858 by Viennese architects of decorations
Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer, used at the turn of
who specialized in designing theatres and the 19th and 20th
opera houses. centuries.
256 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

SLOVAKIA THROUGH THE YEAR

A lthough interesting at any
time of the year, Slovakia
is never swamped by
waves of tourists. In winter the
snow-covered slopes attract
year round, although they tend to
be of a local character. Folk
festivals, one of the countrys
main attractions, are especially
popular among visitors.
skiers; spring is a time of Slovakia is rich in religious
magnificent flowers, particularly traditions. Catholic feasts
in the meadows; summer is the are celebrated throughout
best time for exploring the the country; Orthodox festivals
country. Autumn attracts those are mainly observed in the
who wish to taste Slovak wines eastern regions. Traditional
the pride of local producers. pilgrimages to places of worship
There is a full calendar of Man in a regional continue to attract large
cultural events the whole costume, Nitra district numbers of participants.

Saturday. On Easter Komrno, West Slovakia.

Sunday churches fill Singing competition held
with the faithful. On every two years in memory
Easter Monday of the composer Franz Lehr,
water, which is who was born here.
believed to bring Flora Bratislava (28 Apr1
health and May). International flower fair
prosperity, is on the banks of the Danube.
poured over women. Festival duchov a straidiel
(late Aprearly May),
MARCH Bojnice, Central Slovakia.
Braided willow twigs for an Easter folk ritual Festival of ghosts and spirits
Swimming held in the castle: banquets,
Competitions, Trnava, West firework displays and
SPRING Slovakia. The main interna- theatrical performances.
tional swimming event in
Main festivals of the spring Slovakia. MAY
calendar are associated with Bratislava City Marathon
Easter, when religious cele- (late Mar). A weekend of Trenn Musical Spring (early
brations are accompanied by running, which includes May), Trenn, West Slovakia.
a variety of bucolic customs, shorter races for children. National and international
such as egg painting, musicians play at this annual
preparing decorated food APRIL classical festival.
baskets for blessing, or Koice Music Spring Interna-
ibaka an old fertility ritual Devin-Bratislava Run (10 tional Festival (whole of May),
involving mock-whipping girls Apr). The capitals inhabit- East Slovakia. Held since 1955.
with braided willow twigs. ants welcome the arrival of International Dolls Festival
Easter Easter festivities begin spring by running the 12-km (late May), Poprad, East
on Green Thursday. Church (7-mile) route from Devin. Slovakia. Exhibitions of dolls
bells are tied up to silence The run is regarded as one in national costumes.
them, and their ringing is of the most important events Sm na javisku (May),
replaced by sounds of of its kind in Europe. Trenn, West Slovakia.
wooden rattles until White Komrno Lehra (late Apr), Festival of theatre.

Flowering spring meadows in the High Tatras

 S L O VA K I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 257

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE Sunshine

Hours The largest number
10 of sunny days in
Slovakia occurs,
8 naturally enough, in
the summer, between
6
June and August,
4 although there is
also fine weather
2 in May and Septem-
ber. The cloudiest
0 months are usually
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
November, December
and January.

JULY
SUMMER
Folk Festival (early Jul),
Most folk festivals take place Detva, Central Slovakia.
in the summer, when many Vchodn Folklore
regions, towns and villages Festival (early Jul),
present their local customs Vchodn, north
and cuisine. The largest Slovakia.
events offer a chance to Pilgrimage to Marian
meet artists from many parts Sanctuary (1st Sat in Jul),
of the world. Levoa, East Slovakia.
The best-attended
pilgrimage in Slovakia,
with hundreds of Folk festival in Detva, Central Slovakia
thousands of Catholics,
marking the start of The countrys biggest folk
many such pilgrimages festival celebrating the
in Slovakia. highway robber, Juraj Jnok
International Handicraft (16881713), who robbed
Exhibition (mid-Jul), nobles and gave to the poor.
Kemarok, East Slovakia. Kysucer Pilgrimage (15 Aug),
International Folk Oadnica near ilina,
Festival in Novohrad (2731 Central Slovakia. Colourful,
Jul), Luenec, Central lively and often crowded
Slovakia. A unique European- religious festivities.
scale event, held at the same Summer Festival (Aug),
time on both sides of the Poprad, East Slovakia, on the
Golden fields in the Small Slovak-Hungarian border. edge of the High Tatras.
Carpathians in midsummer International Historic Fencing
AUGUST Festival (mid-Aug). This is
JUNE one of the attractions that
Jnok Days (36 Aug), brings to life the vast ruins of
Folk Festival (34 Jun), Terchov, Central Slovakia. Spi Castle, East Slovakia.
Humenn, East Slovakia.
Horehronsk Dni, Hepa
(late Jun). Three-day folklore
festival.
Dobrofest (mid-Jun),
Trnava, West Slovakia.
A festival organized in
memory of Jan Dopjera,
who founded the guitar-
making firm, Dobro, in the
United States.
ArtFilm Festival (second half
of Jun), Trenianske Teplice,
West Slovakia. Week-long
event with competitions for
the best avant-garde and
experimental productions. Summer concert in the courtyard of the Old Town Hall, Bratislava
258 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

mm in
80 3

60 2.4 Rainfall
June is one of the
40 1.6
warmest but also one
of the wettest months
in Slovakia. The best
20 0.8
time to visit the
country is late spring
0 0 or early autumn
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
when its warm with
less rain.

AUTUMN

One of the most important

events in the Slovak calendar
is the September grape
harvest festival boisterous,
jolly celebrations organized
in all of the countrys vine-
growing areas. This is a
unique opportunity to
sample buriak a freshly
fermented sweet grape juice,
which is supposed both to
purify the system and to Full house at Bratislava Jazz Days festival
rejuvenate the body,
although overindulgence can St Huberts Day (17 Sep), OCTOBER
give you a headache! Pibylina, near Ruomberok,
Central Slovakia. International Jazz Festival
SEPTEMBER Celebrations associated with (early Oct), Koice, East
hunting customs and Slovakia.
Coronation Celebrations traditions, combined with Malokarpatsk Marathon
(early Sep), Bratislava. Actors shooting competitions. (Oct), Trnava, West Slovakia.
dressed in historic costumes Radvansk jarmok (Sep), A popular marathon attract-
re-enact a royal coronation, Bansk Bystrica, Central ing thousands of competitors.
and with great pomp and Slovakia. Colourful
ceremony march through the handicrafts market. NOVEMBER
streets of the Old Town. Biennale of Illustration (first
half Sepend of Oct), Bratislava Music Festival
Bratislava. Regular (Nov), Bratislava. The main
international Slovak festival of classical
exhibition of music.
illustrations for Koice Days of Traditional
books for children Folk Music (1625 Nov),
and young readers; Koice, East Slovakia. Folk
takes place in odd- event, in a variety of forms:
numbered years. concerts, dance shows,
Bratislava Jazz Days discussion meetings. It takes
(3rd week in place at various venues
Sepmid-Oct), throughout the town.
Bratislava. Festival of Greek-Catholic
International jazz Choirs (Nov), Preov, East
festival, and one of Slovakia.
the most important Christmas Fair (25 Nov
events of its kind in 23 Dec), Bratislava. One of
Central Europe. Bratislavas most popular
Participants include events. The town fills up
top jazz musicians with stalls selling handicrafts
and singers from all that make excellent
Autumn at Gerlachovsk tt, the Tatras over the world. Christmas presents.
 S L O VA K I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 259

Temperature
AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE Large variations in
C F altitude cause the
25 77 weather to vary
between individual
20 68
regions of Slovakia.
15 59 The average summer
10 50
temperature is about
20C (68F); at high
5 41 altitudes it does not
0 32 exceed 15C (59F).
Winters tend to be
-5 23 cold, with tempera-
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
tures often dropping
below freezing.

New Years Eve Ball

WINTER (31 Dec), Bratislava.
Some 50,000 citizens
The early part of winter is of Bratislava and
dominated by Christmas and several thousand
New Year celebrations. visitors meet in the
Epiphany marks the town centre to
beginning of the carnival participate in live
season, which continues concerts and an open-
until Ash Wednesday. air disco. Fireworks
and light displays on
DECEMBER the banks of the Cable car to Lomnick tt, the Tatras
Danube create an
International Film Festival unforgettable Wednesday. The final
(210 Dec), Bratislava. atmosphere. carnival procession is the
Festival for cinema lovers. traditional burial of the
Besides European films it JANUARY double bass, after which the
also includes works by music ceases for the entire
independent producers. Epiphany (6 Jan). In many period of Lent.
Christmas (2426 Dec). On villages and small towns this Gajdosk faiangy (last Sun
Christmas Eve morning is an opportunity to see boys before Ash Wed), Mala
people put up the Christmas sporting royal crowns, Lehota near diar, Central
tree (usually a spruce) in singing carols and collecting Slovakia. International
their home. During tradition- small donations. bagpipe-players rally.
al Christmas Eve supper
people break wafer bread FEBRUARY PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
spread with honey and nuts, IN SLOVAKIA
or garlic. Honey symbolizes Shrovetide is the traditional
love; garlic health. The main end of carnival season. Anniversary of the
dish is usually carp. In the Boisterous parties often last Independent Slovak
evening they also unwrap from Sunday until midnight Republic (1 Jan)
their presents. on Tuesday before Ash Epiphany (6 Jan)
Good Friday
Easter Monday
Labour Day (1 May)
VE Day (8 May)
St Cyril and St
Methodius Day (5 Jul)
Anniversary of Slovak
National Uprising (29 Aug)
Constitution Day (1 Sep)
Feast of St Mary,
the Patron Saint of
Slovakia (15 Sep)
All Saints Day (1 Nov)
Struggle for Freedom and
Democracy Day (17 Nov)
Christmas Eve (24 Dec)
Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Boxing Day (26 Dec)
Cinema foyer at the International Film Festival, Bratislava
 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A 261

THE HISTORY OF
SLOVAKIA

F
rom the Middle Ages until the 20th century the fate of the
Slovak nation was bound up with the fortunes of the
Kingdom of Hungary. The national aspirations of the Slovak
people were realized only following the creation of the independent
Slovak Republic in 1993.
PREHISTORY were decisively beaten by
Archaeological discoveries point Charlemagne, at the head of
to the presence of man in the an alliance of Franks and
area of present-day Slovakia Moravians. This cleared the
during the Middle Paleolithic way for the establishment of
era (200,00035,000 BC). The two Slavic principalities, out of
Moravian Venus, a famous which grew the Great
Paleolithic statuette discovered Moravian Empire. By 885, this
near Pietany (West Slovakia) in included parts of present-day
1940, was made around 23,000 Slovakia, Germany and Poland,
years ago. From the 5th as well as the whole of
century BC the area was The Moravian Bohemia and Moravia.
Venus
colonized by the Celts who, From 863 two Greek
as in the Czech Lands, were monks, Cyril and Methodius
displaced in around 10 BC by the took on the task of Christianizing
Marcomanni, a German tribe. They, the people of the empire.
in turn, were attacked by the
Romans, but the Marcomanni were UNDER HUNGARIAN RULE
a troublesome enemy, and the The Moravian empire came to an
Romans eventually pulled back end in the 9th century, destroyed by
south of the River Danube. the invading Magyars. They took
control of the Danube Lowlands, in-
THE GREAT MORAVIAN EMPIRE cluding what is now Slovakia, which
During the 5th and 6th centuries the remained part of Hungary until 1918.
Slavs arrived in the Danube Low- From this moment the Czechs
lands, but they were later con- (under Frankish rule) and Slovaks
quered by the nomadic Avars. A were exposed to differing social,
Frankish merchant called Samo led cultural and political influences, a
a Slavic rebellion in 623 and direct result of which was the
managed to create a kingdom Velvet Divorce of 1993. Also, the
encompassing west Slovakia and Slavic unity under the Great
parts of Bohemia and Moravia. But Moravian Empire has, periodically,
it wasnt until 795 that the Avars fuelled dreams of Panslavism.

TIMELINE
1900700 BC A bronze vessel 863 The Greek monks, Cyril and
Bronze items from dating from Methodius, arrive in Moravia
this period have the 8th-7th
833 The foundation of the Great
been found in centuries BC
present-day Slovakia Moravian Empire

800 BC 500 BC 100 BC AD 600 950

5th century BC First Slovak 1st4th 5th6th centuries
coins minted by the Celts centuries AD Slav tribes colonize
Roman military Danube Lowlands
700500 BC The earliest examples camp Gerulata
of stone architecture in Slovakia exists near Jewellery from the
Bratislava Great Moravian Empire

Jan Francisci: Captain of Slovak Insurgents by Peter Michal Boh, 184850

262 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

the field of mining. In the 14th

century the region of Banska
tiavnica and Kremnica yielded a
quarter of Europes silver and gold.

TURKISH EXPANSION AND THE

ARRIVAL OF THE HABSBURGS
Although Bohemias Hussite armies
disrupted the generally peaceful
existence of its neighbour, the turn-
ing point in Slovakias history was the
Battle of Mohcs (1526), in which the
invading Turkish army crushed the
forces of King Louis Jagiello, ruler of
both Hungary and the Czech Lands.
Louis died in battle leaving no heir,
paving the way for Ferdinand I, a
Habsburg, to become king (see p38).
St Stephen, founder of the Kingdom of Hungary
With the Turks occupying most of
the Hungarian plain, the only signifi-
MONGOL INVADERS AND cant part of the Hungarian kingdom
GERMAN SETTLERS left in Ferdinands hands was the
Having been a highly disruptive force territory of Slovakia, essentially
in central Europe, the Magyars settled Upper Hungary. In 1536 Bratislava
down under St Stephen I (9971038), (Pressburg) became capital of this
the first King of Hungary. Initially, much-reduced kingdom.
the Hungarians were reasonably just Lying between Christian Europe and
rulers, allowing the Slovaks to keep the Muslim Turkish Empire, Slovakia
their own language and culture. The was ravaged by raids and military
economy prospered, thanks largely to campaigns. In 1663 the Turks invaded
mining and trade. This progress was again, captured Nov Zmky, the
interrupted by a Mongol
invasion in 124142, but the
subsequent rebuilding of
the devastated country
initiated another period of
prosperity. The countrys
rulers granted privileges to
many towns, built many
castles, and invited in large
numbers of German settlers
(a similar process was
underway in the Czech
Lands). The new arrivals
brought with them new
skills, particularly useful in The invasion of the Mongols in 1241

TIMELINE
1000 St Stephen crowned king of Hungary 134282 Reign of
117396 Bela III rules Louis the Great in
1025 Slovak lands become part of the Hungary Hungary
Kingdom of Hungary

1000 1100 1200 1300 1400

124142 Mongol 1335 Meeting of
invasion the kings of
Bohemia, Poland
and Hungary in
Document granting town privileges Vyehrad
to Trnava (1238)
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S L O VA K I A 263

called Anton Bernolk, in 1787, but it

received little suppport. In the 1830s
a new generation of Slovaks, mostly
anti-Magyar and pro-Czech, began to
make themselves heard. The leading
figure in this nationalist movement
was Ludovt tr, who helped codify
a new literary language; this became
the basis of modern Slovakian.
By 1848, revolutions had broken
out all over Europe, including in
Hungary. tur and his fellow activists
demanded self-determination for
Slovakia, but this was rejected by the
Two men working in a smithy, a 16th-century leaders of the Hungarian revolution.
altarpiece in Ronava
The Slovak nationalists took a
gamble by offering to support the
mightiest castle in Hungary, and won Habsburgs in their fight against
more land. There was also home- Hungarian insurgents. Their hope
grown trouble. In addition to the that the emperor would appreciate
Reformation, to which the Habsburgs the loyalty and would look
responded by bringing in the Jesuits, favourably on the request for Slovak
there was resistance by Hungarian independence proved futile.
nobles to the monarchys centralist After suppressing the 1848
policies. This led to numerous acts of revolution, Emperor Franz Joseph II
defiance, most famously in 1678 and restored absolute monarchy. All was
1703, led by Imre Thkly and Ferenz not well in the empire, however,
Rkoczi II respectively. and in 1867 Hungary was granted
autonomy by Austria under the
THE ENLIGHTENMENT AND SLOVAK so-called Dual Monarchy.
NATIONAL REVIVAL
The enlightenment reforms
of Maria Theresa and her
son Joseph II in the 18th
century had a big impact
in the empire (see p41).
While German was made
the official language, the
role of national languages
was also acknowledged.
The codification of a
Slovak vernacular became
crucial to the forging of a
national identity. The first
codification of Slovakian
was by a Catholic priest 1848 Revolution: detail of a painting by P M Boh

174080 Reign of Maria Theresa 17801790 Reign of Joseph II

1526 Louis Jagiello
killed at Mohcs 1683 Turks defeated 1787 First codification of Slovak
at the Battle of Vienna language by Father Bernolk

1500 1600 1700 1800

145890 1840s Ludovit Stur
Reign of 1536 Bratislava (Pressburg) becomes leader of
Matthias becomes capital of the the Slovak nationalist
Corvinus Kingdom of Hungary movement
1663 Turks capture Nov Zmky Ludovit tur (181556)
264 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

Bratislava City of Coronations

The modern capital of Slovakia, originally Crown of the
known as Pressburg, was first granted Hungarian Kings
royal privileges in the 13th century. But it This crown is
was the victory of the Turks at Mohcs in commonly
1526 that marked the start of great things believed to be
for Bratislava. The town became capital of that worn by
the much-reduced Kingdom of Hungary, King Stephen
and was made the coronation city of the I, but its
Hungarian kings. For three centuries the authenticity
town hosted coronation ceremonies for has long been
19 Hungarian monarchs, including Maria questioned.
Theresa and Joseph I. Bratislavas heyday
was in the 18th century during the reigns
of Maria Theresa and Joseph II.

Maria Theresa, 174080

Empress Maria Theresa often took up residence
at Bratislava Castle, and as a result numerous
aristocrats from neighbouring Vienna chose to
build palaces here.

The ceremony was attended by

The Primates Palace prominent state and Church
Built in 177881, this fine Neo-Classical palace dignitaries, including Jan Plffy,
became a favourite place to stay for many governor of Hungary.
members of the Habsburg family. Leopold II
was said to have stayed here in 1790 following After the passing of the procession,
his coronation as emperor. the crowd scrambled to touch the
cloth that lined the pavement.
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S L O VA K I A 265

The Wedderin Bell

The bell housed in St
Martins Cathedral
rang to signal that
a new monarch
had ascended the
throne of Hungary.

Bratislava
Castle

Bratislava Centre of Culture

Bratislavas musical life flourished under
Empress Maria Theresa. The imperial
orchestra (with Joseph Haydn its leading
composer) gave many concerts here, as
did the six-year-old Mozart in 1762.

Coronation of Leopold II
After his coronation ceremony on
15 November 1790, Leopold II knighted
33 noblemen in the Franciscan church.

The city
walls, which
the queen
entered via
Michaels
Gate.

Maria Theresa is
BRATISLAVA, 1741 carried in the Pressburg Peace
This painting shows the coronation state coach to
The Primates Palace was the
procession of Empress Maria St Martins
Cathedral for venue for the signing, on 26
Theresa on 25 June 1741. Modern December 1805, of the peace
the coronation
visitors to Bratislava can walk the ceremony. treaty between Napoleon and
coronation route through the city Franz II following the Battle of
(see p280). Austerlitz.
266 I N T R O D U C I N G S L O VA K I A

Masaryk (see p44). This cooperation

intensified after the outbreak of World
War I. In 1918, in Pittsburgh USA,
representatives of Czech and Slovak
emigr organizations signed an
agreement providing for the creation
of a joint state, in which Slovakias
autonomy would be guaranteed.

THE FIRST CZECHOSLOVAK REPUBLIC

With the Austro-Hungarian empire in
tatters, the independent Czecho-
slovak Republic was declared in
Prague on 28 October 1918. While
the new state was composed of two
countries with different histories,
A village in East Slovakia before World War I cultural traditions and ethnic
compositions, President Masaryk and
THE AUSTRO-HUNGARIAN ERA other leading politicians in Prague
The situation for Slovakia worsened steadfastly promulgated the concept
drastically after the creation of the of a single country. The rejection of
Austro-Hungarian monarchy in 1866. Slovakias bid for autonomy caused
The Hungarian government, having a disappointment among Slovakians.
free hand in the shaping of internal Ironically, autonomy came with the
policy, embarked on a process of arrival of the Nazis.
ruthless Magyarization of non-
Hungarian communities. The Slovak THE SLOVAK STATE, 193945
language was banned from schools, When Hitler took the Sudetenland,
and the national cultural organization, and with Czechoslovakia in crisis, the
Matica Slovenska, was abolished. Slovaks seized their chance to declare
Economically devastating was the independence. However, the new
handing over of vast swathes
of land to Hungarian settlers.
By the early 20th century
almost one-third of the Slovak
population, driven by poverty
and persecution, had fled
abroad, mainly to the USA.

WORLD WAR I
The lack of success in their
attempts to win autonomy
within the Hungarian state
drove Slovak politicians to
forge closer links with Czech
activists, led by Tom Ribbentrop and the Slovak prime minister signing a pact in 1940

TIMELINE
Stollwerck chocolate label 1938 Parliament
1867 Creation of
proclaims the
the Austro- 1896 German confectionery
Slovak Republic
Hungarian company, Stollwerck, opens
monarchy a factory in Bratislava

1850 1875 1900 1925

1900 Tom Masaryk starts
187475 Slovak language advocating closer cooperation
banned in schools, and between the Czechs and Slovaks
abolition of Matica Slovenska
1918 Czechs and Slovaks sign, in Pittsburgh, a
document proclaiming the creation of Czechoslovakia
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F S L O VA K I A 267

government, headed by
Jozef Tiso, became little
more than a Nazi puppet
state. Tiso banned oppo-
sition parties and deported
thousands of Jews. Slovakia
became the base of the
Nazis military industry and
also actively supported the
German army. Tisos regime
was popular since Slovakia
was, for the first time, able
to set up its own national Soviet tanks on the streets of Bratislava in 1968
institutions. But the support
was not universal, and in
August 1944 elements of the Slovak THE SLOVAK REPUBLIC
a r m y , a s s i s t e d b y C o m m u n i s t After the Velvet Revolution of 1989,
partisans, launched the Slovak when the Communist government
National Uprising. German troops was overthrown (see p47), Czecho-
quashed the revolt. slovakia was finally in the hands of
Reborn in 1945, the state of democrats. The country was not
Czechoslovakia initially continued the destined to remain a joint state,
pre-war democratic traditions of the however, and on 1 January 1993 the
First Republic. In 1948, however, it sovereign Slovak Republic was
fell under the total control of the proclaimed, headed by Michal Kov.
Communist Party (see p46). The era While democracy in the Slovak
of Stalinist repression that followed Republic has seemed extremely
affected both the democratic activists fragile at times, the position of the
and the staunch Communists, who new state within the international
were often accused like Gustv community was confirmed when, in
Husk of Slovak nationalism. 2004, Slovakia joined NATO and the
European Union.
THE PRAGUE SPRING
In January 1968 reformists in the
Communist Party reacted to the
authorities reluctance to adopt a
more liberal course by taking control
of the government. The democratic
reforms of the so-called Prague
Spring came to an abrupt end, how-
ever, on 21 August with an invasion
by Warsaw Pact troops. The orthodox
Communists returned to power and
during the normalization process that
followed, totalitarian rule was re-
established and all dissent suppressed. President of Slovakia, Ivan Gasparovi

1944 Slovak National Uprising

2005 Slovakia elected to
1969 Alexander Dubek removed a two-year term on the
from office as First Secretary of Slovak UN Security Council
the Communist Party Constitution
1950 1975 2000 2025
1948 Communists take 1968 Prague 1989 2004 2007 Slovakia joins
control of Czechoslovakia Spring Velvet Slovakia the Schengen
Revolution joins NATO agreement, abolishing
and becomes border controls with
1945 Liberation of Slovakia EU member all of its members
by the Red Army 1993 Creation of the Slovak Republic
 SLOVAKIA
REGION BY
REGION

SLOVAKIA AT A GLANCE 270271

BRATISLAVA 272289
WEST SLOVAKIA 290305
CENTRAL SLOVAKIA 306323
EAST SLOVAKIA 324339
270 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Slovakia at a Glance
This small Central European country
displays a diverse topography. Although
there are lowlands in the west of Slovakia,
most of the territory is taken up by forest-
clad mountains. The Small Carpathian
mountains start just north of Bratislava.
Central Slovakia is dominated by the Tatras
range, which includes Slovakias highest
peak. In the east of the country is the Slovak
Karst, which has huge limestone caves.
The Slovak Agricultural Museum, Nitra, is
one of Slovakias most interesting, full of
historic implements for agriculture and
wine-making, as well as displays illustrating
folk and social history (see p304).

The Church of St Jacob in Trnava, built in

1640 on the site of a previous Early Gothic C ENTRAL
church, acquired some Baroque elements in S LOVAKIA
1712. The interior furnishings date from the (pp306323)
17th and 18th centuries (see pp2967).

B RATISLAVA W EST
(pp272289) S LOVAKIA
(pp290305)

The altar of Our

Lady of the
The Chapel of St Rosary, made by
John the Alms- an Austrian
giver was added Master in
to St Martins 150020, is one
Cathedral in of many
Bratislava during outstanding
the Baroque period; artifacts
it holds the remains displayed inside
of the Saint (see Zvolen Castle
pp28081). (see p314).

The majestic ruins of the medieval Spi Castle

 S L O VA K I A A T A G L A N C E 271

Rohae, the start of the Western Tatras, is a uniquely

picturesque region, less crowded than the High Tatras to
the east. It is worth taking a walk along one of the trails
to admire the mountain scenery, glistening lakes and
cascading waterfalls (see p316). The Church of St James in
Levoa contains 18 altars,
masterpieces of medieval
and Renaissance religious
art (see p334).

E AST
S LOVAKIA
(pp324339)

0 km 30

0 miles 30

Hlavn in Koice, the towns

The Slovensk kras (Slovak Karst) is the largest karst area main promenade, is lined with
in Europe, with exceptionally diverse wildlife, and glorious magnificent Gothic, Baroque and
scenery. The beauty of the landscape and the many caves Neo-Classical buildings. This
make this region highly attractive (see pp3367). detail is from No. 37 (see p328).
 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 273

B R AT I S L AVA

T
he capital of Slovakia lies very near the countrys south-
western border. It straddles the River Danube (Dunaj) at the
southern end of the Small Carpathian mountains. From here
it is a mere 2 km (1 mile) to the border with Austria, and only 10 km
(6 miles) to the border with Hungary. In clear weather both
neighbouring countries can be seen from Bratislava Castle.
Bratislava has been the capital when her beloved
of Slovakia since 1993, daughter Maria Kristina
when it became an lived here with her hus-
independent state. band. In the 19th century,
It has always been a it became the centre of the
centre of the countrys Slovak independence movement.
social and cultural life. It was known as The Grassalkovich Palace (now the
Pressburg to German-speakers and as presidential palace) is the setting for
Pozsny to Hungarian speakers. one of the great love stories of the
A Celtic settlement in the 2nd century 20th century. This is where the Austro-
BC, it later became the base of a Roman Hungarian crown prince Franz
garrison, and by the 10th century one Ferdinand dEste met his wife, ofia
of the main centres of the Great Mora- Chotek. In 1914, the murder of the
vian Empire. In 1291 it was granted couple in Sarajevo started World
town privileges by the Hungarian King War I. After the war and the creation
Andrew III and gradually strengthened of Czechoslovakia, the capital of the
its position within the Crown Lands of Slovak part of the country assumed
St Stephen. The city became particularly the name of Bratislava. In 193945, as
important after the capture of Buda by an ally of the Third Reich, Bratislava
the Turks in 1541, when it was the was spared destruction. Postwar
capital of Hungary for nearly 200 years. development, however, destroyed the
Pressburg reached the zenith of its historic centre. Today, the old town of
glory during the reign of Maria Theresa Bratislava has been lovingly restored.

Bratislava Castle with its lofty corner towers

A Gothic entrance into the Old Town Hall

274 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Bratislava
The majority of historic sights in Bratislava can be 0 metres 200
found in the compact old town centre, on the left
bank of the Danube. The landmark castle is on a hill 0 yards 200

to the west of the main road. The best point from

which to view the citys layout is
from the open-air observation SK
N Train Station
T A
decks of the restaurant UFO at VL
KOV A
VR 500 m (550 yards)
H
the top of the New Bridge (Nov AV
L
M
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most) at a height of 80m

K O VA
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(262ft). Outside of the centre PU
KIN

there are interesting



MI K O VA

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.

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villages and wine-growing S VL
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P L V K
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N VN

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TAT RA N

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areas, which are ideal for D

PO
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day trips.

N
E

TEFNIKO
KRL'A
VA
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
NO

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RM

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VO

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SV

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Churches CK

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ET

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Franciscan Church 4

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DO
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Poor Clares Church t U GU

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St Martins Cathedral O N
PO

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pp28081 8 S MOL

O VA
B S K H O

JA B
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K O V I
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Buildings and Squares

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Academia Istropolitana 7 ND
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New Bridge r O
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Old Town Hall 2 ZOC E RN

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Plffy Palace w
P L

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Primates Palace 3
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Slavn Monument i KA
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Slovak National Gallery q C K

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Slovak National Theatre 9 PU BA

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M ICH ALS

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Environs V BIELA

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Bernolkovo c
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Devn Castle a
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Little Blue Church p
ESTSK

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Malacky z
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Marianka Shrine l
Modra h
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Pezinok g
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RUDNAYOVO
NMESTIE
V

Raa s BE
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Rusovce d D N V RCH C K S CH OD Y

RYBN
St Andrews Cemetery o SCH
S TA R EO D Y P R I NMESTIE
SK
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Senec v RN I ID PA U L
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RIGELEHO

RIENA
LO

IKOV
A DN
Stupava k
Svt Jur f N BR . A R M . G E
N . L. SVOBODU
Velk Levre x R Z USOV O N BR EIE
D a n u b e
Nov Most

For additional map symbols see back flap

 B R A T I S L AVA 275

 VISITORS CHECKLIST



3 , / 6 ! + ) ! Road map C4. * 430,000.
 k tefanika, 9 km (6 miles)
NE. Hlavna stanica, Praska,



 1 km (0.5 mile) N. Tel (02) 524

%
&
 959 06. @ Mlynske nivy. n
 
Klobuncka 2. Tel (02) 16186.
www.bratislava.sk



GETTING AROUND
Central Bratislava is best seen

.P


%
&


on foot. The Old Town is very

SBW B


& compact, and many of the major

places to visit are grouped in

 and around it. For longer
 distances within the city and

 into its environs, there is a fast
%BO







SP O J N
and efficient network of buses,
VC 

trams and trolleybuses. These

F

! 5 3 4 2 ) !
also run at intervals throughout

the night, starting from Nmestie

IC K

SNP. From April to October ferry

ST R

and sightseeing boats run from

BY

J
NS
Fajnorovo nbreie. From May
KO

KA
A
NS

TN to October Twin City Liner

BA

KOLLROVO
NMESTIE offers a connection with Vienna.
NMESTIE M
1. MJA

K
VY
SO SEE ALSO
HODOVO DO
BR
M

NMESTIE OV
A

Where to Stay pp3589

R

SK
I

H
N

O
SK

Where to Eat pp39091

A

DN
HO
BC H
O
O LL
H
DR
A

O
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PO

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K
U
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KA
D

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OV

D K
LS

DL
H

HO

JE
A

BC
IT
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O L
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SK
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VA
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NMESTIE
O

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KO
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BA
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NMESTIE
N
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BU
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SK

O
KL
D BA
A

FRANTI-
KNSKE PRIMACILNE
LO V

NMESTIE NMESTIE
OLN
KOST The main square and castle in Bratislava
A

HLAVN RA SK
R IN
T

NMESTIE DN
I L AU O KEY
N
H

RY
RK
RO

B R
SK GO Street-by-Street map
V
A

K
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NS
KOMENSKHO See pp2767
BR

PA
NMESTIE
HO
N

HO

SK
N
A

N Airport
VA

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C

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LA

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HVIEZDOSLAVOVO
NMESTIE
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TA

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PA LA RUCK B RO
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Parking
PE

AFARIKOVO
L'NA

NMESTIE
JN

EN
Tourist information
GONDO

ED
IE
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M

NB
PRE ER-
N O VA

NMESTIE K HO Post office

JANS
VA

L'. TRA
VA FAJNOROVO NBREIE
Church

Pedestrianized street
D a n u b e Star Most
276 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Street-by-Street: Old Town

The centre of Bratislavas historic Star mesto Michaels Gate
district consists of two interlinked squares: This is the only
Hlavn nmestie and Frantiknsk nmestie. gate that
The first has the distinctive Old Town Hall. This remains from
square was also part of the coronation route of the medieval
the Hungarian kings (see p280), now marked fortifications. In
by golden crowns embedded in the pavement. the 18th century
The pride of Frantiknsk nmestie, apart it was topped
from its lovely trees, is the Marian Column with a statue of
erected in 1657. Both squares are popular the Archangel
meeting places, with many attractive cafs. Michael 5

A
Mirbach Palace NCK
ZAMO
This Rococo palace, one of Bratislavas
finest architectural relics, now houses the
City Gallery 6

This statue of Napoleons soldier is Marian

column
one of several life-sized figures in the
Old Town, including a worker poking
his head out of a round manhole
and a paparazzo
photographer aim-
ing his lens BIELA
FRANTI-
from around KNSKE
a corner. NMESTIE

SE
DL
R
SK
A

HLAVN
NMESTIE
N RY
LE
ZE B
RS
KA

In Hlavn nmestie, the main square of Bratislava

and its former marketplace, is the 1572 Maximilian
Fountain designed by Andreas Luttringer. On a tall
plinth at the centre of the fountain is the figure of
Roland, a knight who defended the townspeoples
rights. The square has been beautifully renovated, 0 metres 50
and seasonal stalls add to its bustle and atmosphere.
0 yards 50
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 277

. Franciscan Church
Bratislavas oldest
religious building, this
Gothic-style church was
erected in the 13th
century. Several times
remodelled, it acquired
its Baroque form in the
18th century 4
LOCATOR MAP
See city map, pp2745

. Primates Palace
One of the citys finest Neo-
Classical structures, this
palace was built in
The Jesuit
Church (see p278)
177881 by Melchior
was built in Hefele for the Archbishop
16368 by Jozef Batthyny 3
Protestants. Its
greatest treasure is
the Rococo pulpit
by Ludovit Gode.

ANTIKNSKA
FR
UR
U

The Museum of Music is in the

LI

birthplace of Johann Nepomuk

NS

Hummel (17781837), a cele-

KA

brated composer and pianist.

The Renaissance house in
KA Klobunicka has displays about
IC
U N his life and works, and the
OB history of music in Bratislava.
KL
N LN E
TOL CI IE
KOS MA
PRI MEST STAR SIGHTS
N
. Franciscan
Church

. Primates Palace

RA
DN
I
NA

The Museum of Wine

Production, part of
the City Museum,
displays wooden
grape presses over
200 years old. Old Town Hall
KEY The Star radnica, many times remodelled
and rebuilt since the 13th century, is now
Suggested route
home to the City Museum 2
278 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Bratislava Castle 1
BRATISLAVSK HRAD

Slovak National Museum Tel (02)

20 48 31 11. # 9am5pm TueFri,
10am6pm Sat, Sun (last adm: 45 mins
before closing). & f www.snm.sk
Perched forbiddingly on a
large, rocky hill above the
Danube, Bratislavas stronghold
is first mentioned in 907. It
was at a strategic location on
the Danube, at the crossing of
trade routes, including the Bratislava Castle on the north embankment of the Danube
ancient Amber Route. Fortified
in the 11th and 12th centuries, created in the 15th century by Batthyny, the primate of
the castle was rebuilt in Gothic combining a number of res- Hungary and archbishop of
style in the 15th century, and idential houses. At the turn of Esztergom. Its Neo-Classical
in 155260 remodelled into a the 16th and 17th centuries it pink-and-gold faade features
Renaissance residence. In was rebuilt in Renaissance a magnificent pediment that is
175060, it was given beauti- style. In the 18th century its crowned with the archbishops
ful Rococo furnishings. In much older corner tower was coat of arms, topped with a
1811 the castle burnt down; it remodelled in Baroque style; giant-size cardinals hat. The
was rebuilt in the 1950s. this tower can be climbed for figures of angels on the
Today, visitors to the castle excellent views. Mounted on faade hold the letters I and
can enjoy magnificent views its lower section is a plaque C, a reference to the motto in
over the city and several marking the level of flood the cardinals coat of arms
exhibitions from the Slovak waters recorded in February Iusticia (Justice) and
National Museum. Collections 1850. Higher up, to the left of Clementia (Mercy).
on permanent display include the Gothic window, is anoth- The palace, which is now
The National Historical er historic relic a cannon- the seat of the towns mayor,
Exhibition of Slovakia, Slovak ball embedded in the wall is partly open to the public.
Folk Culture, the History of since the 1809 siege of Brati- Its most opulent room is the
Bratislava Castle and the slava by Napoleons army. It Hall of Mirrors, where in 1805
Castle Picture Gallery. Despite is worth taking a look at the the Peace Treaty of Pressburg
ongoing reconstruction work unusual colourful roof cover- was signed between Napoleon
throughout the castle, most ing of the building on the and Francis I, after the French
exhibitions remain open to side of Primacilne nmestie. victory at the Battle of
the public. The town hall houses the Austerlitz. Other first-floor
City Museum (Mestsk rooms are given to a branch
mzeum). Displayed within its of the Municipal Gallery with
splendid vaulted interiors are a modest collection of paint-
exhibits associated with the ings and six unique English
history of Bratislava, including tapestries dating from 1632,
17th19th-century painted
shooting targets.
Opposite the town hall
stands the Jesuit Church of
the Holy Saviour. It was built
in 16368 for Bratislavas
Protestant community, which
explains its wide, plain faade
with no tower. Its interesting
Baroque furnishings include a
Bratislavas eclectic Old Town Hall fine Rococo pulpit.
in the main square

Old Town Hall 2 Primates Palace 3

PRIMACILNY PALC
STAR RADNICA

Primacilne nmestie 1. Tel (02) 59

City Museum Tel (02) 32 18 13 12.
35 63 94. # 10am5pm TueSun.
# 10am5pm TueFri, 11am6pm
Sat, Sun. & The most beautiful palace in
www.museum.bratislava.sk Bratislava was built during
The charming Old Town Hall 177881 to a design by The courtyard fountain at the
in Primacilne nmestie was Melchior Hefele, for Jozef Primates Palace

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 279

depicting the love story of

Hero and Leander. The strik-
ingly bright tapestries were
discovered in a hidden
compartment during building
works in the early 20th century.

Franciscan
Church 4
FRANTIKNSK KOSTOL

Frantiknske nmestie. #
10:30am5pm MonFri.
The Franciscan Church Buildings of the Academia Istropolitana, site of a 15th-century university
behind an inconspicuous
Baroque faade is the oldest the addition of a Baroque with stuccoes and a triangular
religious building in cupola, and the statue of pediment. The building was
Bratislava. Built in the 13th Archangel Michael was placed erected in 176870 by a rich
century, it was consecrated in at the top. The tower houses brewer, Martin Spech. Its
1297 in the presence of King the Museum of Weapons subsequent owner, Count
Andrew II. Subsequent and Town Fortifications Karol Nyary, ordered his
remodelling works (Mzeum zbran a family crest to be placed in
obliterated its original mestskho opevnienia). the tympanum. The last
Gothic form, but it is still The viewing terrace owner of the palace, Emil
possible to see the affords a stunning Mirbach, bequeathed the
medieval rib panorama of the city building to the town.
vaulting and beyond. The Now it is an art gallery,
above the small building next currently holding the main
presbytery. to the gate is collection of Bratislavas City
Particularly Bratislavas oldest Gallery (Galria mesta
impressive is the pharmacy At the Bratislavy). Exhibits include
two-tier 14th-century Red Lobster. examples of 17th- and 18th-
chapel of St John the century Baroque painting.
Evangelist. During Two of the first-floor halls
coronation pageants Mirbach have walls almost entirely
in Bratislava the Palace 6 covered with colourful 18th-
church was used MIRBACHOV PALC
century engravings set in
for knighting Statue from the wood panelling.
ceremonies, in Franciscan Church
Frantiknske nmestie
which the new
monarch appointed Knights 11. City Gallery Tel (02) 54 43 15 Academia
56. # 11am6pm TueSun.
of the Golden Spur.
www.gmb.sk
Istropolitana 7
The churchs furnishings,
mainly Baroque, date from The Rococo Mirbach Palace Ventrska 3. f
the 17th and 18th centuries; opposite the Franciscan
an older, 15th-century Piet in Church has a beautiful faade The oldest university in
a side altar is a highlight. present-day Slovakia, the
Academia Istropolitana was
founded by King Matthias
Michaels Gate 5 Corvinus in 1465. It occupied
two residential town houses
MICHALSK BRNA
belonging to tefan Gmaitel.
The university trained its
Michalsk ulica 24. Museum of students in three faculties.
Weapons and Town Fortifications Following the death of King
Tel (02) 54 43 30 44. # 10am5pm Matthias in 1490, the
TueSun; 11am6pm Sat, Sun. & university closed down.
www.muzeum.bratislava.sk This building, with its stone
Built in the first half of the entrance portal and oriel
14th century, Michaels Gate windows, is now a national
is the only surviving original cultural monument.
gateway to the medieval city, Modernized in the 1960s, it
and one of Bratislavas oldest houses the Bratislava Academy
buildings. In 17538 its of Music; check with tourist
Gothic tower was raised to Michaels Gate with its striking information offices for times
the present 51 m (167 ft), by Baroque cupola of occasional performances.
280 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

St Martins Cathedral 8
DM SV . MARTINA
Structure of
This Gothic edifice, with a wide nave the Cathedral
flanked by two aisles, was built on the site Due to vibra-
of an earlier, 14th-century Romanesque tions from
church. Between 1563 and 1830 eleven heavy traffic
Hungarian kings and eight queens were on the nearby
crowned here. It is possible to walk the major road to
former coronation route through the Old the New Bridge
Town, starting from here, by following a (see p283), the
series of golden crowns embedded in the cathedral is
pavement. In the late 19th century the being damaged.
church was rebuilt in Neo-Gothic style by It frequently
Jozef Lippert, and its interior was undergoes
refurbished along more purist lines. repair work.

Presbytery
After completing the hall the
builders realized that the
section by the altar was
too small. They added
a presbytery with a
splendid net
vault; the
coat of arms
on it is that
of Matthias
Corvinus.

. Sculpture of St Martin
This dramatic sculpture,
by Georg Raphael
Donner (1734), was
originally made for the
main altar. St
Martin is shown
in Hungarian
dress cutting his
cloak to share
with a beggar.

Chapel of St John the Almsgiver

In 1732, commissioned by
Archbishop Esterhzy, Georg
St Annes Chapel
Raphael Donner built the side
chapel of St John the Almsgiver (sv.
Jn Almunk), in which the saints
remains were laid to rest.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 281

VISITORS CHECKLIST
The tower, 85 m Rudnayovo nmst 1. Tel (02) 544
(280 ft) tall, is 313 59. # AprOct: 911:30am,
topped with a 15pm MonSat, 1:3011pm Sun
slender cupola, (NovMar: times vary). 5 8am
and includes a & noon MonSat, 7:45am, 9am,
tiny copy of the 10:30am, noon, 5pm Sun. &
Hungarian crown,
a reminder that
this was once the Interior
venue of royal In the late 19th century the
coronations. Baroque furnishings were
replaced with new, Neo-
Gothic ones. The main altar
was removed and its angels
paying homage to St Martin
were transported to Budapest.

Stained-Glass
Windows
The windows in
the presbytery and
the aisles date from
the second half of
the 19th century;
they were mostly
produced by the
Viennese company
of K Geyling.

The Canons
Chapel and the
Chapel of the
Czech queen
Sophia are
adjacent to the
sacristy under
the tower.

STAR FEATURES
. Altar of St Annes
Chapel . Altar of St Annes Chapel
The central field of the
Main portal . Sculpture of ornate altarpiece in this
with Neo-Gothic St Martin chapel depicts the scene of
vestibule the Crucifixion.
282 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

18th-century Baroque naval

barracks, designed by GMar-
tinelli and F Hildebrandt, and,
in the 1970s, V Ddeeks
house. In 1990 the gallerys
collections were also placed
in the neighbouring Neo-
Renaissance Esterhzy Palace.
A long structure designed by
I Feigler Jr and built in
187076, Esterhzy Palace is
reminiscent of an Italian
Renaissance town palace.
The gallery boasts a number
of magnificent works of art.
The finest are the collections of
Faade of the Neo-Renaissance Slovak National Theatre 13th- and 14th-century Slovak
art including altarpieces and
Slovak National building of the Reduta, built statues from churches of the
in 191318 in an eclectic style Spi region in eastern Slovakia.
Theatre 9 that combines neo-Baroque, Modern Slovak art is also well
SLOVENSK NRODN Rococco and Art Nouveau represented, with models of
features. It used to stage buildings, photographs, ceram-
DIVADLO
social and artistic events, ics, jewellery and posters, mak-
symphony concerts and ing an eclectic overview of the
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie 1. theatre performances. Today countrys creative output over
Pribinova 17. Tel (02) 20 47 21 11. the Reduta is the home of the the last hundred years.
www.snd.sk Slovak Philharmonic, and it is As well as Slovak artists, the
This imposing Neo-Renaissance the principal venue for the collection also holds works by
theatre on the east side of Bratislava Music Festival (see a number of foreign masters,
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie was p258). The part of the build- including Caravaggio, Rubens,
built in 18846. Its creators ing on the side of Mostova Manet and Picasso.
were two Viennese architects houses a casino and restaurant.
who specialized in theatres,
Ferdinand Fellner and Plffy Palace w
Hermann Helmer. The faade Slovak National PLFFYHO PALC
is decorated with busts
including Goethe, Liszt and
Gallery q
Shakespeare. At the centre of SLOVENSK NRODN GALRIA Panska 19/21. City Gallery Tel (02)
the tympanum is a sculptural 54 43 51 02. # 11am6pm Tue
Sun. & www.gmb.sk
group including the Muse of Riena 1. Tel (02) 54 43 45 87. #
Comedy, Thalia. Opera and 10am6pm TueSun. 1 Jan, The 1747 Baroque Plffy
ballet performances are Easter Friday, 24, 25 Dec. & - Palace serves as another
regularly staged here; the www.sng.sk extension to Bratislavas City
sumptuous interiors can only Gallery (Galria mesta
be seen by attending a Established in 1948, the Bratislavy); the main collec-
performance. The bronze and National Gallery occupies a tion is in the Mirbach Palace
marble fountain in front of building that was created by (see p279). Its distinctive
the theatre, made in 1880 by combining the four-wing portal is decorated with
VTilgner, depicts the Trojan
youth Ganymede flying on the
back of Zeus, who has become
an eagle.
In 2007 the Slovak National
Theatre opened a second
performance and exhibition
venue on the banks of the
Danube in Eurovea.

Reduta 0
Palackho 2. Tel (02) 20 47 52 33.
# 17pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri;
8am2pm Wed. www.filharm.sk

Close to the Slovak National

Theatre is the imposing The Reduta, home of the Slovak Philharmonic

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 283

images of war trophies, suspended from one pylon on

reminders of the fact that one the south bank of the Danube
of its first owners was Marshal (Dunaj), opened in 1972. At
Leopold Plffy. the top of the pylon is a
The Palace displays collec- restaurant, reached by a lift,
tions of Gothic panel which provides views of the
painting, Central European city on the north bank, and of
painting, 19th-century the vast housing estates of
sculpture and 20th-century Petralka on the south. Built
Slovak painting and sculpture. by the Communists, this
It is this 20th-century section estate houses around 150,000
that holds the most interest, of the citys inhabitants.
with its varied portrayals and To build the New Bridge,
interpretations of Slovak life. and the major Staromestsk
highway that cuts through the
city and over the bridge, a
House at the Good section of the old city was
destroyed, including the
Shepherd e former Jewish quarter at the Richly decorated tower and spire
DOM U DOBRHO PASTIERA foot of Bratislava Castle, just of the Poor Clares Church
outside the old city walls.
idovska 1. Tel (02) 54 41 19 40. Renaissance style. From the
Museum of Clocks # 10am5pm second half of the 18th
MonFri, 11am6pm Sat, Sun.
Poor Clares century until 1908 it housed
Church t the Law Academy and the
One of the towns finest Catholic Theological
KLARISK KOSTOL
examples of Rococo Seminary; one of its students
architecture is the House at was the Hungarian composer
the Good Shepherd, named Klarisk ulica. Bla Bartk. It has been
after the statue of the Good The former church and restored, and now it serves as
Shepherd on its corner. Built convent of St Clare stand a venue for exhibitions and,
in 176065, it is now one of near the 14th-century walls, due to the churchs excellent
the few remaining original which surrounded the city acoustics, concerts.
houses in the area at the foot until the 18th century, when
of the castle. It is colloquially they were dismantled
referred to as the house
like an iron, because
on the orders of
Empress Maria Theresa.
Nmestie SNP y
of its tall flat wedge The remaining Nmestie SNP.
shape, dictated by fragments are a
the plot on which it meticulous The square of the Slovak
was erected. It is reconstruction. National Uprising has been
believed to be the The 14th-century used for public gatherings for
narrowest building Gothic, single-nave centuries. Celebrations that
in Europe, and there church should, in line accompanied royal coronations
is only one room on with the strict rules were held here, and more
each floor. It houses binding the recently it saw gatherings of
a Museum of mendicant and activists in 1989 just before
Clocks (Mzeum contemplative the fall of Communism.
hodn), a branch of orders, be plain Just off the square is the
the City Museum. The and have no Church and Monastery of
exhibits date from the ostentatious the Brothers of Mercy
17th to the 20th tower, only a (kostol a kltor milosrdnch
centuries and are small bell rung at bratov). Here, the monks,
mostly the works of times of prayer. who devoted themselves to
Bratislavas Figure from the House This rule has been caring for the sick, built a
clockmakers. at the Good Shepherd broken twice in large complex of buildings
Bratislava: the outside the city walls. The
nearby Franciscan Church Early Baroque faade with its
New (see p279) and the Poor angular tower (1728) is clearly
Bridge r Clares Church were both visible on many old drawings.
given towers. The convents The most interesting artifacts
NOV MOST
fine church tower, dating are the 18th-century altars
from 1400 and richly and the tombstone of Jn
Staromestsk. decorated with sculptures, is Onell (1745). The still-
Also known as the bridge of built on a rarely seen functioning hospital played
the Slovak National Uprising pentagonal ground-plan. an important role during the
(most SNP), this steel The convent itself was built plague that ravaged Europe
construction, which is after the great fire of 1590, in in 171013.
284 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

National flags flying in front of Grassalkovich Palace

Grassalkovich figure by Alexander Trizulijak Little Blue

of a Red Army soldier holding
Palace u a banner flapping in the wind. Church p
GRASSALKOVIOV PALC The adjacent mausoleum is MODR KOSTOLIK
used as a venue for official
Hodovo nmestie 1. Gardens celebrations. The monument Bezruova ulica.
tefnikova ulica. # daily. is surrounded by a cemetery
containing 6,845 war graves. The unusual Art Nouveau
This Baroque palace, built The front terrace affords a Little Blue Church owes its
in 1760 to a design by fine prospect of Bratislava name to its blue roof tiles and
A Mayerhoffer, was to the south and views of walls. Its designer, dn
originally the residence the distant Small Lechner, was a Hungarian
of Anton Grassalkovich, Carpathian mountains architect, one of the most
chairman of the Royal to the north. famous creators of Art
Hungarian Chamber, Nouveau in Budapest. The
the Royal Crowns church was built in 190713
Guardian and one of St Andrews and dedicated to St Elizabeth
the closest advisors to (sv. Albeta) of Hungary,
Empress Maria Theresa. Cemetery o daughter of King Andrew II
The palace was ONDREJSK CINTORN of the Arpad family, who was
considerably extended born in Bratislava Castle in
towards the end of the Entrance on Polna. 1207. Her portrait can be seen
18th century. In 1939 it # 7amdusk daily. above the churchs portal.
became the seat of
Monsignor Josef The oldest and
Tiso, president of Figure of an angel, St most interesting
the Slovak Andrews Cemetery graveyard in
Republic during Bratislava, St
World War II. It is still the Andrews Cemetery is a well-
residence of the President. kept green oasis resembling a
Standing guard in front of the town park and is popular
palace are soldiers in colour- with the locals for a stroll.
ful historic uniforms. In the Founded in 1784, it covers an
late 18th century the palace area of 6 ha (15 acres) and
was surrounded by a French entry to it is through St
garden, which was returned Andrews Chapel, which was
to its former glory in 1999 built by the architect I Feigler
and is now open to the public. in 1861.
The cemetery is the resting
place of several prominent
Slavn Monument i citizens of Bratislava and
Slovakia. Its avenues are lined
Slavn. with many tombs belonging
to famous families. Among
The vast Soviet monument to those buried here are sculptor
the Red Army soldiers killed Alois Rigele; Jlius Satinsk, a
in battles with the Nazis famous Slovak actor, writer
around Bratislava in the closing and comedian; and the Bratis-
stages of World War II stands lavan Robinson Carl Jetting.
on Slavn hill in the north- The cemetery has an exhibi-
western part of the city. The tion of tomb monuments and
40-m (130-ft) obelisk by Jn details from memorials of the Monument to the Red Army
Svetlik is topped by a bronze 19th and 20th centuries. soldiers on Slavn Hill

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 285

Devn Castle a
8 km (5 miles) W of the centre of
Bratislava. @ 28, 29. 4 from Central
Bratislava. Tel (02) 65 73 01 05.
# OctApr: 10am5pm TueSun
(MaySep: to 7pm Sat & Sun). &

At the point where the Morava

river flows into the Danube
stand the looming ruins of
Devn Castle perched on a
high rock. The rock was once
the site of a Celtic settlement;
later on the Romans built
their fortress here; and in the
9th century Prince Rastislav,
King of Great Moravia, chose
it for his stronghold. It changed
hands many times until in 1809
it was blown up by the French
during the Napoleonic Wars.
In the 19th century, during
the period of national rebirth,
it became a prominent
symbol in the shaping of
Slovak national identity,
promoted by the nationalist
Ludovt tr (see p286). The ruins of Devn Castle, high above the Danube
During the 1980s the castle
area, separated from Austria and fakes, Raas winemakers the command posts that
only by the Danube, was marked their barrels by guarded the northern border
closed to the public. Now it is scorching special marks on of the Roman Empire along
a favourite spot for a stroll for them. Winemaking traditions the Danube. Archaeological
Bratislavans. It also features the are still a significant part of excavations unearthed
remains of the Roman fortress the local culture, and the fragments of fortifications,
and a museum of archaeolog- annual grape harvest festivals, cult sites, tombstones and
ical finds in a reconstructed here and in Modra (see p286), small everyday objects, many
fragment of the castle. attract many visitors. of which are displayed in the
Gerulata Museum.
Another popular attraction
Raa s Rusovce d is the 19th-century Neo-
Gothic Zichy Castle. This
8 km (5 miles) NE of the centre of 9 km (6 miles) S of the centre of houses part of the collection
Bratislava. * 21,000. @ 52, 55, 56, Bratislava. * 1,700. @ 91, 191. of the Slovak National Gallery,
59, 65, 515. v 3, 5. 11. _ Grape and is surrounded by a vast
Harvest (mid-Sep). www.raca.sk The remains of a Roman English-style park.
military camp called Gerulata
E Gerulata Museum
The small winemaking town were discovered in the
Gerulatsk 69. Tel (02) 62 85 93 32.
of Raa has a history going suburban district of Rusovce # AprNov: 10am5pm TueSun. &
back to Roman times. Its in 1961. It had stood here
earliest written records, from from the 1st to the 4th + Zichy Castle
for renovation.
1245, mention a Roman centuries AD, and was one of
settlement on the south-
eastern slopes of the Small
Carpathians. During the
Middle Ages the locally
produced wine was regarded
as the regions best, and
exported to Silesia and Austria.
In 1767 Empress Maria Theresa
granted Raas producers a
licence to produce terezianska
frankovka, so declaring the
local red wine worthy of the
imperial table.
In order to protect their
products against interference The fairytale Zichy Castle in Rusovce
286 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Pezinok g grape harvest festival. The

oldest of its five churches is
Road map C4. 20 km (12 the Catholic Church of St
miles) NE of the centre of John the Baptist (sv. Jn
Bratislava. * 22,700. Krstitel), from the beginning
@ n Holubyho 42. of the 14th century. Buried in
Tel (033) 640 69 89. its cemetery is one of the
www.pezinok.sk heroes of the Slovak national
movement, Ludovt tr
Pezinoks winemaking (181556), whose life is
tradition dates back to illustrated by an exhibition in
the late Middle Ages. the local tr Museum, in the
The first vine growers former town hall. His statue
were German settlers, also dominates the main
who arrived in the 13th square. Modra is renowned for
century. In 1615 Matthias its majolica pottery (see p399).
II granted Pezinok the
status of a free royal E tr Museum
trova 84. Tel (033) 647 27 65.
town and the towns
# MonFri. & www.snm.sk
walls were constructed.
Altar in the Church of St George, Svt Jur The Old Town Hall was
built in the 17th century
Svt Jur f and rebuilt after a fire in Neo-
Classical style. Kaviakov, the
Road map C4. 14 km (9 miles) NE of Renaissance house at No. 4
the centre of Bratislava. * 5,100. tefanika, with its attractive
@ www.svatyjur.sk oriel window and inner
courtyard, houses the Small
A wine-producing centre, Carpathian Museum
Svt Jur lies in an extremely (Malokarpatsk mzeum),
picturesque setting devoted to local winemaking
surrounded by vineyards with traditions and Pezinoks history.
the remains of its ancient Hiking and skiing are popular
walls visible here and there. in the nearby mountains.
Its first records date from
1209 but this small town E Small Carpathian
reached the peak of its Museum
Tel (033) 641 20 57. # AprOct:
prosperity in the 17th and
TueSun. www.muzeumpezinok.sk
18th centuries, and most of its
historic buildings date from Old Town gate, Modra
that time. In the early 17th
century Emperor Rudolph II
granted it town privileges,
Modra h erven Kame j
and in 1615 Matthias II Road map C4. 30 km (19 miles) NE Road map C4. 8 km (5 miles) N of
conferred on it numerous of the centre of Bratislava. * 9,000. Modra. @ Tel (033) 690 58 03.
further rights. @ n trova 59. Tel (033) 647 # OctApr: 9:30am3:30pm
The towns highlight is the 23 12. _ Grape Harvest (mid-Sep). TueSat; MaySep: 9am5pm daily.
modest 13th-century Church www.modra.sk _ Fencing Festival (May). & 8 0
of St George (sv. Juraj). Its
- = www.hradcervenykamen.sk
Gothic interior contains many An annual highlight in Modra
beautiful wall-paintings, stone (Modern), sometimes called One of the best-preserved
epitaphs and a carved altar- the jewel of the Small Slovak castles, erven
piece depicting the churchs Carpathians, is the September Kame (Red Stone) owes its
patron saint fighting the
dragon. The altarpiece was
carved from white sandstone,
in 1527, by Anton Pilgram.
Standing below the church
is an early 17th-century
Renaissance mansion that
belonged to the Plffy family,
and is now the home of the
new Academia Istropolitana
(see p279). The nearby
Baroque Church of the Piarist
Order (Piaristick kltor),
with its steep roof, has the
tallest clock tower in town. The Old Town Hall in Pezinok

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 287

above the entrance is the

Krolyi family crest.
Unfortunately, the building
burned down in 1947 and its
subsequent reconstruction
completely changed its
appearance. The castle is
surrounded by a lovely
English-style garden with
some rare species of trees.
The towns most notable
religious building is the
Church of St Stephen (sv.
tefana), the patron saint of
Hungary. This Baroque
edifice, erected on the site of
a castle mentioned in 1271,
Coats of arms from the well in the courtyard of erven Kame Castle was most recently remodelled
in 1867. Close by is a
magnificent appearance to the illuminate the lives and living Baroque chapel surrounded
fact that from 1580 until the conditions of the aristocracy by a high wall with the
end of World War II it here and in other Slovak Stations of the Cross.
remained in the hands of the castles from Renaissance Also of interest in Stupava
the wealthy Plffy family. A times until the 19th century. are some well-preserved
mighty edifice with four Baroque and Neo-Classical
corner towers, it was acquired Environs burghers houses along
in the 16th century by the ast, about 1 km (half a Hlavn. The pillory, erected
German banking family, the mile) east of erven Kame, in 1766 for the punishment of
Fuggers, on the site of a 13th- has been a centre of wine- minor offences, is still
century fort. Anton Fugger, making for several centuries. standing. The towns Syna-
one of the richest men in Its 15th-century Gothic Church gogue, dating from 1803, is a
16th-century Europe, of St Imre (sv. Emeryk) has square-shaped building with
converted the fort into a some interesting medieval massive walls that give it a
Renaissance castle with huge paintings, and in several pri- rather forbidding appearance.
cellars, 70 m (230 ft) long and vate wine cellars in the town Although it is listed as a
9 m (30 ft) high, which were you can taste the local wines. UNESCO World Architectural
used as a warehouse. After Heritage Site, the synagogue
the Plffy family took over,
they converted it into a
Stupava k is sadly much neglected;
attempts are being made to
splendid Baroque residence. Road map C4. * 9,300. @ restore it. Inside, four huge
At the end of World War II (02) 65 93 41 10. n Agtov 16, pillars divide the vault into
they fled the country. Stupava. www.stupava.sk twelve segments. The ceiling
The castles magnificent and the walls still feature beau-
interiors include many An important trading tiful paintings in cobalt blue
excellently preserved pieces centre for several and dark red.
of furniture, porcelain and centuries, Stupava, Stupava has also
historic furnishings. The eye- then known as been a well-
catching features of the Ztumpa, is men- known centre for
octagonal castle chapel are its tioned in the ceramics, which
lavishly decorated walls and donation letter of is commemo-
ceilings, and marble altars, the Hungarian rated in the
while the castle pharmacy still King Bela IV as Museum of
has the original cabinets early as 1269. The Ferdi Kostka, a
dating from 1752. An unusual local fairs were famous Slovak
feature of the castle is the famous, and the potter (1878
1656 sala terrena, a startling town charged a 1951). It displays
artificial grotto with trompe- three per cent tax the original
loeil paintings and stuccoes. on all goods stone tiles,
The castle also houses some sold, which Figure from the Church of sculptures and
interesting collections from contributed to its St Stephen, Stupava vessels by Kostka
the Slovak National Museum. growing wealth. with his decora-
There are historic weapons The seat of the changing tions depicting the lives of
dating from the 15th to the owners of Stupava was a the local inhabitants.
19th centuries. There is also a modest-sized Castle, which in
gallery of paintings with some the second half of the 19th E Museum of Ferdi Kostka
F Kostku 26. Tel (02) 65 93 48 82.
fine family portraits of the century was rebuilt in
# TueSat (Sat to 1:30pm). &
Habsburgs, Plffys and their Romantic style, with some
www.muzeumpezinok.sk
courtiers. Many other exhibits Rococo elements. Placed
288 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Malacky z
Road map C4. * 17,770. @
n Radlinskeho 1. Tel (034) 772 20
55. www.malacky.sk

Belonging to the Balassy

family, Malacky was granted
town privileges in 1573. Its
main attraction and a place
of pilgrimage is the Baroque
Church of the Assumption
of the Virgin Mary
(Nanebovzatia Panny Mrie),
built for the Franciscan order
in 1653. Its sacred stairs are,
according to tradition, a copy
of those ascended by Christ
as he entered the courtroom
in Jerusalem, where he was
sentenced to death. Pilgrims
Miraculous statue of the Madonna, the Marinka Shrine climb the ascending left-hand
side of the staircase on their
Marinka Shrine l Macholanyi, is depicted, with
his family, in one of the
knees. Placed under every
step are relics of saints. The
Road map C4. 12 km (7 miles) NW of ceiling paintings. Standing in right-hand side may be
Bratislava. @ Tel (02) 65 93 52 26. front of the chapel are two descended on foot. The
# daily. www.marianka.sk Baroque statues by Georg entrance at the back of the
Raphael Donner. church leads to the crypt, a
The charming sanctuary in resting place of members of
Marinka, a small town Environs the Plffy family and several
northwest of Bratislava, is the A popular but steep 90-minute hundred Franciscan monks.
oldest site of the Marian cult walk from Marinka via the The Synagogue, built in
in the territory of the former town of Borinka leads to the 1886, sports a twin-towered
Hungarian Kingdom. The remains of Pajtn Castle, once faade, clearly inspired by
Gothic Church of Our Lady a magnificent Renaissance seat Middle Eastern architecture.
(Panny Mrie), built in 1377, of the Plffy family. The castle
was founded by King Louis I was unfortunately destroyed R Church of the Assumption
of Hungary. Inside are five by a passing detachment of of the Virgin Mary
# Mon, Wed, Fri.
Baroque altars dating from troops from Napoleons army
171735. The jewel of the and today is just a pile of
church is the wooden statue ruins. According to legend, the
of Our Lady, dating probably
from the 13th century, made
place is haunted by a knight
on a charger, who each night
Velk Levre x
famous by numerous jumps from the castle walls. Road map C4. * 3,220. @
miracles. In the 17th century, The surrounding district offers
during the wars with Turkey, several interesting and fairly Once a military base
the revered statue was hidden difficult climbing guarding the borders of the
five times in the nearby trails. Hungarian Kingdom, this
Pajtn Castle (see below). small town was first
The adjacent monastery is as mentioned in historic records
old as the church. The in 1378. It has houses, quite
building was given its unique in Europe, built by
present shape in 171114, the Anabaptists (locally
when Cardinal Kristin known as Habans), members
August, Archbishop of of a religious community
Esztergom and Primate of who arrived here in 1588
Hungary, chose Marinka from Swiss and South
known at the time as Mariatl German territories. They
for his summer residence. exerted an enormous
Starting behind the church influence on the life of the
is a scenic footpath with local population and left
thirteen Baroque Stations of behind a number of fine
the Cross. The path leads up historic buildings. The Haban
to the site of a miraculous Houses (Hbanske domy)
spring, which has a Baroque display distinctive design
rotunda chapel built above and are often painted blue.
it. Its founder, Count Jan Malacky Synagogue A display of Haban pottery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3589 and pp39091
 B R A T I S L AVA 289

can also be seen. In 1981

Hbansk dvor (mansion)
was declared a legally
protected monument of folk
architecture.
In the 16th century the
Kolloni family, who
originated from Croatia, built a
three-wing Baroque Palace
here, surrounded by a
sprawling English-style
garden. Both palace and
garden are closed to visitors.
In 172933 Cardinal The Baroque Bernolkovo Palace
igmund Kolloni, Archbishop
of Vienna, erected an imposing gate is adorned with the corner turret and scalloped
twin-towered parish church. Esterhzy family crest and roof parapet, was built by
Its consecration date coincided rich ornaments. The buildings Kristf Batan as the seat of
with the 50th anniversary of stand surrounded by a the local administration. The
the victory over the Turks at sprawling French-style park building withstood attack by
Vienna, in 1683. with allegorical statues by Turkish forces in 1663. It is
Ludovit Gode. It also features now an upmarket restaurant.
the Baroque Chapel of St While here it is worth
Anna, dating from 1716. taking a look at the Gothic
Now the palace has been Church of St Nicolas (sv.
turned into a luxury hotel, Mikul) surrounded by walls,
part of the Bratislava Golf and built in 1326 and subsequently
Country Club. It has both a remodelled in Baroque style.
nine and an 18-hole golf Inside are four fine Rococo
course, the latter being well- altars. The market square
known throughout Europe. features a 16th-century pillory,
used until 1848, and a Plague
Column dating from 1747.
Senec v The most interesting of the
surrounding buildings is the
Road map C4. * 14,700. @ crumbling Synagogue, built
n Mierov nmestie 8. Tel (02) 20 in 1904 in Art Nouveau style
20 51 01. www.senec.sk with the use of floral motifs.
The twin-towered parish church in In 1930 Jews constituted about
Velk Levre The small town of Senec 25 per cent of the towns pop-
has been a major trading ulation, but since World War
centre for many centuries II they are a small community.
Bernolkovo c and is now a gateway to the
nearby Sunny Lakes resort.
Two kilometres (1 mile)
southeast of the town is the
Road map C4. * 4,500. @ In Senec is one of the oldest popular Sunny Lakes
n Hlavn 111. Tel (02) 45 99 39 11. relics of Renaissance (Slnen jazer) resort built
architecture in Slovakia the on the shores of two warm-
From the 13th century until Turkish House (Tureck water lakes, with hotels, camp
1948 Bernolkovo was known dom), which dates from 1560. sites, jetties, water slides and
as ekl. It was renamed in The building, with its round childrens playgrounds.
honour of Anton Bernolk,
author of the first book on
Slovak grammar, who was the
local priest here between
1787 and 1791.
The vast Bernolkovo
Palace is regarded as the
finest piece of secular
Baroque architecture in
Slovakia. It was built during
171422 for the Esterhzy
family, to a design by Johann
Bernard Fischer von Erlach.
The three wings surround its
exquisite courtyard. Each of
them sports a tower and is
covered with a differently
shaped roof. The entrance The 1560 Turkish House in Senec
 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 291

W E S T S L O VA K I A

F
or visitors arriving first in the Slovak capital, Bratislava, West
Slovakia becomes the gateway to the rest of the country. The
main topographic features of the region are the great plain of
the Danube river, the wide valley of the middle and lower Vh river
and the gentle slopes of the Small Carpathian mountains stretching
from the Vh valley to the outskirts of Bratislava.
The wester n section of Visitors are drawn
Slovakia differs signi- in their thousands to
ficantly from the rest Pietany, famous for
of the country in that its spa centres, located
it is the most highly on an island on the Vh
developed and most river. Trenianske Teplice is another
industrialized region. West Slovakia historic spa. Nearby Trenn boasts a
has few forests; the landscape history going back to the days of the
consists mainly of flat, open plains, Roman Empire. To this day there are
with rich, fertile soils. Its only the traces of a fortified camp of the
mountain range, the Small Car- Roman legions, Laugaricio.
pathians, is a low, undramatic chain. In the 16th and 17th centuries, the
The most interesting historic sights southern part of the region was the
in West Slovakia are its old towns, scene of conflict due to the Ottoman
Trnava and Nitra. The former, once Empires expansion into the
referred to as the Slovak Rome, Kingdom of Hungary. During that
owes this nickname to the impres- time, a key role was played by the
sive number of churches built within splendid Renaissance fortress, Nov
a small area of the historic town Zmky; its loss in 1663 and
centre. Nitra was, in the early 9th subsequent recovery from Turkish
century, the seat of the Slav ruler, hands after 22 years was an
Prince Pribina, the founder of the first important chapter in the history of
Christian church in Slovak territory. Christian-Ottoman conflict in Europe.

Trinity Column in Trojin nmestie, Trnava

The imposing ruins of the clifftop Beckov Castle

292 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring West Slovakia

Slovakias western region offers a wide variety of SEE ALSO
visitor attractions. Those interested in history will find
Where to Stay pp35961
here remnants of every era, ranging from the regions
earliest civilizations, in Dunajsk Streda, to the numer- Where to Eat pp3912
ous magnificent Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and
Neo-Classical buildings in Trnava, Nitra and Levice.
Nature lovers can enjoy the endless hiking trails that
crisscross the Small Carpathians, while visitors
seeking to improve their health can take
advantage of the famous thermal
waters of the Pietany spa. HOL
Kopany Radoovce Nov Mesto
Myjava nad Vhom
Brno
ACHTICE CASTLE
achtice
SENICA
Doj BREZOV POD Koarisk
Kty BRADLOM
a
Morav

DOBROVODSK
CASTLE PIETANY

Plaveck Mikula Zruby

767m
PLAVECK CASTLE
SMOLENICE DOLN
Vpenn CASTLE KRUP
752m Hlohovec
Malacky

St Nicholass Church in Trnava

B R AT I S L AV S K
V h
TRNAVA
KRAJ
KEY Lozorno T R N AV S K
Motorway
Pezinok K R A J Sered
Svt Jur
Main road
Senec
Minor road Raa
Sldkoviovo
Scenic route GALANTA
BRATISLAVA
Main railway Zlate Klasy
Minor railway Vienna
Da n

Mal D
un
International border a i
ub

e(
Regional border D
un

Horn Pot
a j)

Summit amorn
DUNAJSK STREDA

Baka Doln tl
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Beckov Castle e Nitra u
Brezov pod Bradlom 5 Nov Zmky p
achtice Castle w Pietany 0
Velk Meder
Dobrovodsk Castle 6 Plaveck Castle 1
Doln Krup 7 Senica 3 Medvedv
Dunajsk Streda 9 Smolenice Castle 2
Gjor
Galanta i Topoliansky Castle q
Hol 4 Tovrniky Castle y
Komrno a Trenianske Teplice t 0 kilometres 20
Levice Castle s Trenn r
Mojmrovce Palace o Trnava pp2969 8 0 miles 10

For additional map symbols see back flap

 W E S T S L O VA K I A 293

Zln

ilina

h
V

Dubnica nad Vhom

TRENIANSKE
TEPLICE
TRENN

TRENIANSKY
KRAJ
BECKOV
CASTLE Prievidza

Bnovce nad
Bebravou
Beckov Castle on its rocky outcrop
TOPOLIANSKY
CASTLE
GETTING AROUND
TOVRNIKY The predominantly lowland character of West
CASTLE Slovakia means that its transport network is fairly
Radoina Topolany well developed. Good bases for exploring the
region are Bratislava and Trnava, which have
numerous transport links radiating outwards. The
main highway is the D1 motorway, which runs
Preselny southwest to northeast. Trains are also fast and
Doln efficient along this northeast route via Trnava and
Trhovite
Vapy Zvolen Trenin. Buses are a better choice towards Nitra
Opatovce
and Levice, and a good bus network connects the
Luianky regions smaller towns and villages.
Koliary

NITRA

Cabaj-
por Ivanka
LEVICE CASTLE
MOJMROVCE Kalnica
PALACE
Sala
Hr

Komjatce on
Tekovsk
Luany Demandice
arovce
urany NITRIANSKY
KRAJ eliezovce

Kolta
Pastovce
NOV ZMKY Dvory Pohronsk
nad itavou Ruskov

Kolrovo Pribeta
Hurbanovo Kamenny Salka
Most
Vh

Gbelce
Svt Peter
Zemianska Mula trovo
Ola
KOMRNO
Budapest
D a nu b e ( D u n a j )

Portrait of Juraj Illshzy,

Trenn Museum
294 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

numerous group of local

tradespeople. Social and
political changes turned it
into a flourishing centre of
trade and industry, with a
20,000-strong population.
The Gothic Chapel of St
Anna (sv. Anna) is the oldest
historic relic in Senica. The
Castle now houses the
Zhorsk Gallery (Zhorsk
galria), whose collection
documents the art of the
Plaveck Castle ruins, in the Small Carpathian mountains Slovak-Czech-German-
Hungarian border region.
Plaveck Castle 1 20th century its last owners
the Plffy family rebuilt the
The building, designed by
Viennese architect Franz A
Road map C4. 35 km (22 miles) N structure in the Gothic style. Hillebrandt, features an opu-
of Senec. @ to Plaveck Podhradie. Now the castle is used by the lent columned hall on the
Slovak Academy of Science, ground floor, which is
The lofty ruins of Plaveck mainly as a hotel and now used for exhibitions.
Castle form a distinctive conference venue, There is a Catholic Church
feature of the Small Carpathian and some of its dating from the first half
mountains when viewed from rooms have been of the 17th century and
the western side. The castle opened to the featuring an Early
was built as a royal fortress public. Surrounded Baroque altarpiece.
guarding the border region in by an English-style The eastern part of the
125673. Many times remod- garden and located town has a fascinating
elled since, it now bears traces in an exceptionally Jewish cemetery, with
of Gothic and Renaissance beautiful area, the Sculpture, Chapel of original 18th and
styles. From the 17th until the castle has a St Anna in Senica 19th century tomb-
20th century it was the romantic, fairy- stones (masebbas).
property of the Plffy family. tale silhouette.
In the early 18th century, E Zhorsk Gallery
following Rkczis anti- Sadov 619/3. Tel (034) 651 29 37.
Habsburg insurrection in 1703 Senica 3 # TueSun. & www.muzeum.sk
(see p263), the castle was
captured by the emperors Road map D3. 44 km (27 miles)
army. Since then it has fallen NW of Trnava. * 20,000. Hol 4
into disrepair. In good weather eleznina. @ Hurbanova.
the ruins can be reached by a n Nm. Oslobodenia 17. Tel (034) Road map C3. 80 km (50 miles) N
half-hour uphill walk from the 651 64 59. # 9am5pm MonFri. of Bratislava. * 11,400. @ n
village of Plaveck Podhradie. www.senica.sk Bratislavsk 6. Tel (034) 668 51 55.

As recently as the early 20th Once an important border

Smolenice century, Senica was a sleepy town, Hol lies along the
Castle 2 little town populated mostly trading route that linked the
by craftspeople and farm two capital cities of Buda
Road map D4. 20 km (12 miles) workers. Historic records in Hungary and Prague in
NW of Trnava. @ Tel (033) 535 mention the fact that shoe- Bohemia. Duties levied on
48 90 (hotel reception). makers formed the most the transported goods provided
www.kcsmolenice.sav.sk

In the foothills of the

Small Carpathian mountains,
Smolenice Castle towers above
Smolenice village below. The
castle was built in the 14th
century as the final fortress
defending the passes of this
relatively low mountain
range. The site, which initially
belonged to the king and
subsequently to a series of
Hungarian families, fell into
ruin in the 18th century and
in the following century was
destroyed by fire. In the early Entrance hall of Smolenice Castle

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
 W E S T S L O VA K I A 295

a major source of revenue Brezov pod Bradlom

for the local authorities. also has Slovakias
The main historic sight in only monument to Jan
Holi is its Baroque Castle. Hus (see pp367).
This four-storey edifice built
on a U-shaped floorplan, Environs
and enclosed within massive The family home of
defensive walls and a moat, General tefnik, in
was once a Renaissance the village of
fortress built in the face of Koarisk (4 km/2
the Turkish threat. In the miles from Brezov
18th century, Maria Theresas pod Bradlom), is an
husband, Francis Stephen of interesting museum
Lorraine, converted it into a devoted to his life.
Habsburg summer residence.
Now it is a venue for cultural E tefnik Museum
and folklore events, and 90615 Koarisk. Tel (034)
houses the Jaroslava Prluka 624 26 26. # daily.
Ethnographic Museum
(Mestsk mzeum Jaroslava
Prluka), the eclectic View from Dobrovodsk Castle
collection of one of the Dobrovodsk
oldest inhabitants of Holi. Castle 6 Doln Krup 7
E Jaroslava Prluka Road map D3. 30 km (19 miles) N Road map D3. 7 km (4 miles) NW of
Ethnographic Museum of Trnava. @ Trnava. * 2,250. @ from Trnava.
# MonSat. &

Standing on a wooded hill The Neo-Classical palace in

above the village of Dobr Doln Krup was a stately
Voda, Dobrovodsk Castle home of the Brunswick
belonged in the 14th century family. This two-storey
to the system of fortresses building with a columned
that guarded the road (no portico was erected on earlier
longer in existence) running foundations in 17934.
along the ridge of the Small The large English-style
Carpathians. In the 16th garden that stretches in front
century it was so vast that of the palace includes a small
access to the upper castle was music pavilion, whose history
via three separate entrances, is connected with the visits to
A house in Brezov pod Bradlom each protected by its own Doln Krup by Ludwig van
defensive wall. Beethoven who was friends
Brezov In the ensuing centuries the with the Brunswick family.
importance of Dobrovodsk Tradition has it that it was here
pod Bradlom 5 Castle gradually diminished, in 1801 that the composer
Road map D3. 48 km (30 miles) N
and, following the 1762 fire wrote his famous Moonlight
of Trnava. @ www.brezova.sk
that consumed the buildings, Sonata. The pavilion houses a
it was never rebuilt. Now the small Beethoven Museum
On top of Bradlom Hill, at 543 picturesque ruins are containing displays about his
m (1,780 ft), stands the crumbling, although the life and work.
monumental tomb of General remains of the two towers,
E Beethoven Museum
Milan Rastislav tefnik the round turret, the entrance
Tel (033) 557 72 71. # daily. &
(18801919), one of the gate and the defensive walls
7 www.snm.sk
founders of Czechoslovakia. are still very impressive.
The general, a close associate
of Toma G Masaryk and
Edvard Bene, was killed in
1919 in an air crash near
Bratislava, while returning to
the country where he was due
to assume the office of war
minister in the newly formed
government. The monument
was built in 19278 to a design
by Slovak architect Duan
Jurkovi. It is a vast structure
of light grey stone. Steps lead
up to the tomb, which has an
obelisk at each corner. Neo-Classical Brunswick Palace in Doln Krup
296 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Trnava 8

Trnava (Nagyszombat) was granted town privileges in

1238, making it one of Slovakias oldest towns. In the
16th and 17th centuries, at the height of the Turkish
threat, it was the seat of the Hungarian primate and the
headquarters of the Church of Hungary. The town
acquired numerous churches, convents and monasteries,
becoming known as the Slovak Rome. The first univer-
sity in Hungary was founded here in 1635. Highlights for
visitors are its religious buildings and relaxed ambience.
R Cathedral of St Nicholas
The twin towers of the
Cathedral of St Nicholas (sv.
Mikula), with their distinc-
tive bell-shape cupolas, are Interior of the Church of the
one of Trnavas chief Assumption of the Virgin Mary
landmarks. The church was
built in 13801421. Its outside R Church of the Assumption
walls are supported by of the Virgin Mary
mighty buttresses, particularly The Order of the Poor Clares
imposing in the presbytery. settled in Trnava during the
The towers initially of Middle Ages. This church
unequal size were given (Nanebovzatia Panny Mrie)
their present shape after a fire was built for the nuns in the
in 1676. They are still not 13th century as an aisleless
identical; a close look will Romanesque structure. Follow-
reveal that the southern one ing a 17th-century fire it was
is slightly narrower. Inside, extended and remodelled in
St Josephs column in the main attraction is the the Baroque style, which can
St Nicholass Square octagonal chapel of the Virgin be seen to this day. The origi-
Mary added in 1741 to the left nal features of the interior
Exploring Trnava aisle of the church. It contains include the early 18th-century
The historic town centre is the miraculous picture of the high altar and three side altars.
enclosed within the old walls, Trnava Madonna, which is
which form an almost com- particularly revered in E Museum of West Slovakia
plete square. The main Holy Slovakia. The richly gilded Muzejn nmestie 3. Tel (033) 551
Trinity Square is at its heart. Renaissance-Baroque main 29 14. # 8am5pm TueFri, 11am
Among the restored historic altarpiece dates from 1639. 5pm Sat, Sun. &
buildings in the Old Town Built into the side walls of the One of the largest in West
are some modern structures chapels are a number of Slovakia, this interesting and
erected in the postwar years. interesting Renaissance and varied museum (Zpado-
The main shopping street is Baroque tombstones. slovensk mzeum) is housed
the pedestrianized Hlavn. in the 13th-century
convent adjacent to
P St Nicholass Square the Church of the
This spindle-shaped square Assumption of the
(nmestie sv. Mikulaa) by Virgin Mary. Following
the old city walls was in the administrative restruc-
Middle Ages the focus of the turing of the empires
town. At its centre is the 1731 institutions carried out
Baroque column of St Joseph, during the reign of
surrounded by chapter build- Joseph II, the building
ings including the Archbishops became a military
Palace. The Palace was built hospital, and then a
by Pietro and Antonio Spazzi warehouse. In 1954 it
in 1562. During the 16th and became a new museum
17th centuries, this imposing with the aim of
Renaissance edifice was the continuing Trnavas
seat of the Hungarian primates museum traditions.
whose residence in Esztergom The collections, on
had been appropriated by the two floors of the
Turks. The archbishops went building, are highly
back to Esztergom in 1820, but diverse and include
a Slovak archbishopric was re- archaeological finds,
established here in 1990. The twin towers of St Nicolass Cathedral an exhibition of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
 T R N AVA 297

religious art, ethnography and Szalatnai-Slatinsk in memory VISITORS CHECKLIST

natural history displays and a of Trnavas Jews murdered in
unique collection of bells. the Holocaust. Road map D4. 46 km (28 miles)
NE of Bratislava. * 68,300.
u Synagogue E Music Museum Kollrova. @ Stanina.
Halenrska 2. Tel (033) 551 46 57. M S Trnavskho 5. Tel (033) 551 25 n Trojin nmestie 1. Tel (033)
# MaySep: 10am6pm TueFri, 56. # 9am5pm TueFri, 11am5pm 323 64 40. Fax (033) 551 10 22.
16pm Sat, Sun; OctApr: 9am5pm Sat, Sun. & f # 9am5pm MonFri;
TueFri, 16pm Sat, Sun. The Music Museum occupies MaySep: also 8amnoon Sat,
www.snm.sk & Dom hudby, which used to be 26pm Sun. www.trnava.sk
The imposing edifice of the home of one of Trnavas
Byzantine-Moorish style was most famous citizens the
built in the 19th century to a composer Mikulas theatre building in
design by Viennese architect Schneider Trnavsk Slovakia. Just north of the
Jakub Gartner. Now it houses a (18811958). square, the Holy Trinity
centre of modern art and the It displays objects Church (now known
Museum of Jewish Culture; it is and mementos in Slovak as Jesuitsk
also used as an exhibition and associated with kostol) was built in
concert hall. In front of the the Slovak the early 18th
synagogue is a black marble musician; it also century by the
monument designed by Artur serves as a Trinitarian monks.
concert venue. It has been used by
the Jesuits since 1853.
R Cathedral of To the west of the
St John the Baptist square is the single-
See pp2989. towered Church of St
Jacob (sv. Jakub), built in
P Holy Trinity 1640 and remod-
Square Holy Trinity statue, elled in a Baroque
The towns main Holy Trinity Square style in 1712.
square, Trojin
nmestie, sports a lofty R Church of St Helen
Municipal Tower dating from Trnavas oldest church
1574, with a viewing gallery. (sv. Helena), at the southern
Its cupola is crowned with a end of Hlavn, dates from the
golden statue of Our Lady. 14th century. Adjoining its
There is also an 18th-century north faade is the original
Plague Column. Close by is tower with Gothic windows;
19th-century synagogue in the 1831 Municipal Theatre seen above the portal are
Byzantine-Moorish style (Trnavsk divadlo), the oldest statues of the saints.

TRNAVA CITY CENTRE

Cathedral of St John the OV
NK
RYB
Baptist 7 B AT Y
RN
HL

HO
Cathedral of St Nicholas 2 Cathedral of
BO

St John the Baptist

Church of the Assumption of
K

DSK
the Virgin Mary 3 ALI
INV
N
PEKRSK
TE

Church of St Helen 9 Cathedral

N O P OTO

of St Nicholas
FN

Holy Trinity Square 8 ST NICHOLASS

SQUARE
A
IKO

H OR

Museum of West Slovakia 4 Music Museum

VA

Music Museum 6 Holy Trinity VO V

A Archbishops
SLA Palace
Church DO
St Nicholass Square 1 IEZ
HV
HA

Synagogue
Synagogue 5
LE

Church of N
N

EL
KA

St Jacob AD HOLY TRINITY

D IV
RSK

P IT

SQUARE
Municipal
UL
SK
A

Theatre

Church of the Assumption

O V
of the Virgin Mary
Z

PA

TRH
VA

MO

UL
HLA
JA

Museum of
N
NS
HO

SK
OR
VN

West Slovakia
CK

A
K

OL
SPO
Tr n

HO

0 metres 400
SK
A
D
avk

Church of
RSK

0 yards 400 St Helen

a

K
E LE C
A

STR
Key to Symbols see back flap

Train and bus stations

300 m (330 yards)
298 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Trnava: Cathedral of St John the Baptist

The first monumental Baroque
structure in Slovakia and one of the
countrys largest religious buildings, the
Cathedral of St John the Baptist Main Faade
(Katedrla sv. Jna Krstitela) was The twin-
constructed in 162937. The building, towered faade,
intended as the church for the Jesuit- divided by
run university, was founded by Count protruding
Mikls Esterhzy. The first mass was cornices, is
celebrated here by the Archbishop of decorated with
Esztergom, Imrich Lsi. From 1777, statues of
when the university was moved to St Joachim,
Buda, the church was used by war St Anna,
veterans; later on it became the local St Elizabeth
parish church. It has a richly and St Zachary.
ornamented Italianate interior.

Pilasters
decorate
the faade

Main Portal
The Latin inscription above the
entrance mentions Count Mikls
Esterhzy, the churchs founder.

Main entrance

Interior Figures of the apostles were

Walls, vault, arcades and windows are decorated placed in niches on the
south side
with rich stucco ornamentation figurative, floral
and geometric by Rossi, Tornini and Conti.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
 T R N AVA 299

St Johns Pulpit VISITORS CHECKLIST

The Baroque pulpit is
decorated with figures Univerzitne nmestie.
Tel & Fax (033) 551 45 86.
depicting the Fathers of the
# MayOct: 10amnoon,
Church. It was built in 1640 25pm and 30 min before
by B Kniling and V Stadler. each mass. 5 7:30am daily;
9:30 and 11:30am Sun.
86

. The High Altar

This magnificent
Baroque gilded
wooden altar-
piece (1640)
depicts the
scene of
Christs
baptism.

Ornate Door
Above the richly carved
wooden door leading to the
sacristy is an ornate metal
grille with gilded elements.

. Vaulted
Ceiling
The paintings on
the arched vaulting STAR FEATURES
of the presbytery . The High Altar
ceiling depict scenes
from the life of St . Vaulted Ceiling
John the Baptist.
300 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Topoliansky Castle, with a

remarkable tower topped by
a ridge roof. Originally a royal
castle built in the mid-13th
century, it became a strong-
hold of the Hussite army in
14314. In subsequent wars
for control of Hungary it was
captured and burned down,
and later on changed hands
many times. Its last owners,
the Stummer family,
abandoned what was left of
Distinctive modern buildings in Dunajsk Streda town centre the castle in the mid-18th
century and moved to a large
Dunajsk Streda 9 years the town spa was
owned by the Erddy family,
castle in Tovarnik (see p304).

Road map D4. 45 km (28 miles) SE who in 1822 built the first spa.
of Bratislava. * 10,000. @ The town became a popular achtice Castle w
n Hlavn 50. Tel (031) 590 39 42. resort visited by Beethoven
# 9am5pm MonFri. and Mucha, among others. Road map D3. 15 km (9 miles) S
The spa is located on the of Beckov. @ to achtice.
The town lies on itn ostrov, edge of the park, on
an island cut off from the the right bank of the The conspicuous
main flow of the Danube by Vh river, and on the remnants of achtice
the Little Danube (Mal spa island. Near the Castle stand on a
Dunaj). Archaeological park is a pavilion, rocky hill (375 m/
discoveries here provide built in 1894 and now 1,230 ft) between the
evidence of settlements in this housing a concert hall towns of achtice and
area since the early Bronze Age and the Spa Museum Viov, offering a
and confirm the importance (Balneologick magnificent view of
of the island under the Great mzeum). The Col- the surrounding area
Moravian Empire (see p261). umned Bridge to the the Small Carpathians
The earliest written records of island is a fine and the Myjava
the town date from the 12th example of 1930s Tower of Plateau. This
century. Materials relating to Functionalist Topoliansk Castle fortified stronghold,
the islands colonization can architecture. whose construction
be seen in the Regional was started in the first half of
Museum (itnoostrovn E Spa Museum the 13th century, was part of
mzeum) in lt katel, a Beethovenova 5. Tel (033) 772 28 the defence system that
75. # TueSun.
pleasant Neo-Classical building guarded the western border
www.balneomuzeum.sk
erected in the 18th century. of the Hungarian Kingdom.
The greatest attraction, how- Over the following centuries
ever, is now the town centre, the most famous person
which in 19959 Imre Makovec Topoliansky associated with achtice was
returned to its former ambience Castle q the Blood Countess
by building a series of unusual Elizabeth Bthory, wife of the
white buildings with tiled roofs, Road map D3. 56 km (35 miles) NE district chief and Hungarian
decorated with arches, towers of Trnava. @ to Podhradie. army captain, Ferenc
and wooden ornaments. Ndasdy. In 15851610 she
On a high rocky ledge above ordered over 600 young girls
E Regional Museum
the village of Podhradie are to be murdered in the castle,
Mzejn 2. Tel (031) 552 24 02.
the scenic ruins of allegedly to obtain their blood,
# TueSat. & www.muzeum.sk

Pietany 0
Road map D3. 40 km (25 miles) S of
Trenn. * 30,000. @ W of
town centre. n Nlepkova 2.
Tel (033) 774 33 55. # 9am5pm
MonFri. www.spapiestany.com

A health resort that is famous

all over Europe, Pietany offers
treatment for rheumatic and
arthritic conditions. For many achtice Castle, dominating a rocky peak

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
 W E S T S L O VA K I A 301

which she used to maintain

her youth. The investigations
confirmed the charges and
Elizabeth was imprisoned for
the rest of her life within the
walls of her residence. In
1708 the castle was captured
and from then on it began to
fall into ruin.

Beckov Castle e
Road map D3. 20 km (12 miles) SW
of Trenin. @ # MayOct:
9am6pm Tue-Sun.

The castle ruins, looming on

top of the 70-m (230-ft) rock
above the small town of
Beckov, provide a truly unfor-
gettable sight. The structure
was built at the turn of the
12th and 13th centuries as a Beckov Castle, perched above a breathtaking drop
link in the chain of Hungarian
fortifications stretching along magnates, the Lord of the Vh nmestie. The Baroque Piarist
the Vh river valley. In the and the Tatras. The dominant Church (Piaristick kostol)
14th century the owner of feature of the castles silhouette here, from the mid-17th centu-
Beckov was a powerful is its tower, Matova vea, ry, has attractive trompe-loeil
warlord, Mat k. Later the erected during the times of paintings. The yellow Parish
castle converted into a k. Adjoining it are the Church (Farsk kostol), at the
Gothic and Renaissance stately Gothic palaces built by base of the lane to the castle,
residence was owned by Sigismund of Luxemburg and was rebuilt after a fire in 1528.
the Stibor and Bnffy families. Louis of Hungary. Now they
In 1729 the fortress burned are occupied by the Trenn + Trenn Castle
down and was never rebuilt. Museum (Treninaske Tel (032) 743 56 57. # daily. &
Now the most impressive part mzeum) as an exhibition E Trenn Museum
is the upper castle with its venue, with reconstructed Mierov nmestie 46. Tel (032) 743
grand rectangular tower. interiors of 11th-century 44 31. # TueSun.
There are also ruins of two feudal houses; a gallery of www.muzeumtn.sk
palaces and a chapel. paintings from the Illshzy
family estate; and an exhibi-
Trenn r tion of historic arms. In the Trenianske
courtyard is Omars well, 80 m Teplice t
Road map D3. 80 km (50 miles) NE (260 ft) deep, which was dug
of Trnava. * 60,000. @ between 1557 and 1570. Road map D3. 14 km (9 miles) E of
eleznina. n Sldkoviova. Tel The town itself centres on Trenin. * 5,000. @ _ ArtFilm
(032) 743 35 05. www.trencin.sk the main square, Mierov Festival (late Jun). www.teplice.sk

Straddling the Vh river, the The spa town of Trenianske

town of Trenn has a well- Teplice has a beautiful
preserved historic centre. In location on a site rich in
ancient times the site was mineral waters, which from
occupied by a Roman military the 14th century were known
camp, Laugaricio. It is still throughout the Hungarian
possible to see an inscription kingdom for their therapeutic
carved into the rock face properties. From 1582 the town
below the castle concerning belonged to the aristocratic
the victorious battle fought Hungarian Illshzy family.
here in AD 179 with the The most famous building is
German tribe the Quadi. the Turkish bathhouse (1888),
Trenns huge Gothic Castle in which Moorish arches
(see pp3023) has undergone surround the central courtyard
a thorough restoration. Built in with spa waters spouting from
the 11th century, it became, stone fountains; women are
two centuries later, the not allowed in. There is also
property of Mat k, one Bathhouse in the Sina sanatorium, an exotic bathhouse in the
of Hungarys most powerful in Trenianske Teplice 19th-century Sina sanitorium.
Trenn Castle above the historic town of Trenn
304 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Tovrniky Castle y
Road map D3. 6 km (4 miles) NW of
Topolany. @ to Topolany to
the public.

The small town of Tovarnicky

boasts a large castle. This
fortified structure, surrounded
by a moat, was built during
the time of the Turkish threat.
In the late 18th century it was
remodelled to form a Tovarniky Castle and gardens
comfortable Baroque
residence. The extensive Prince Pribina, the first known Just east of the Nitra river is
rebuilding turned the former ruler of the Slavs. The Turks the Slovak Agricultural
closed quadrangle of the caused great destruction here Museum (Slovensk
walls into a three-wing palace in the 16th and 17th centuries. polnohospodarsk mzeum),
with attractive two-colour Since the 19th century Nitra a fascinating collection of
faade decorations and has grown into a sprawling reconstructed traditional farm
mouldings, and a courtyard modern city. buildings, shops and houses,
open on one side. The old towns dominant with original machinery.
Inhabited until 1945, the feature is the Castle, on a
castle later fell into disrepair. rocky ledge in the crook of the E Nitra Museum
tefnikova trieda 1. Tel (037) 651
In recent years both castle Nitra river. It is surrounded by
00 00. # daily. & 0 -
and grounds have been 17th-century walls whose one
undergoing a complete gate is accessed via a stone E Slovak Agricultural
reconstruction. The works, bridge. The main building of Museum
Dlh 92. Tel (037) 657 25 53.
carried out by private owners, the castle complex is St
# MonThu (FriSun by request).
are still not finished, but it is Emerams Cathedral
already possible to see from (Katedrlny Biskupsk Chram
the outside the restored sv. Emerama), consisting of
buildings, which are set in a
beautiful English-style garden.
three churches that were joined
in the 18th century. They
Galanta i
comprise the 11th-century Road map D4. 35 km (22 miles) E of
Romanesque rotunda of St Bratislava. * 16,000. @
Emeram, the Gothic upper
church, and the lower church Founded in the 13th century,
built in the 17th century. Galanta is in the Danube
At the foot of the castle is Lowland. It has two Esterhzy
the Upper Town. Its centre, palaces. The Renaissance
Pribinovo nmestie, is flanked Palace (Renesann kstiel)
by Baroque and Neo- houses exhibits on the
Classical buildings. On the towns history, the
south side is the Grand Esterhzy family, and
Seminary, now housing the the Hungarian com-
Diocesan Library (Dieczna poser Zoltn Kodly.
kninica) with its valuable The other palace, not
collection of books and open to the public, was
incunabula. Situated built in 1860 in English
outside the walls is the Neo-Gothic style.
Romanesque rotunda at Lower Town with a
St Emerams Cathedral in Nitra twin-towered Piarist + Renaissance Palace
Esterhzyovcov.
Church (kostol
# TueSun. &
Nitra u Piaristov), containing
magnificent frescoes.
Road map D4. 90 km (56 miles) E The striking 1991
of Bratislava. * 90,000. @ Andrej Bagar Theatre Mojmrovce
Stanina. n tefnikova 1. (Divadlo Andrej Bagara) Palace o
Tel (037) 741 09 06. www.nitra.sk overshadows the Neo-
Renaissance town hall, Road map D4. 15 km (9
As early as the 7th century which houses the Nitra miles) S of Nitra. @ 0
Nitra was already a political Museum (Nitranske Tel (037) 779 82 01.
and commercial centre of the mzeum). In the www.vic.sk
Slav tribes north of the museum are displays
Danube. At the turn of the 8th on archaeology, The history of
century this area was an inde- history and the Statue of St Urban in Mojmrovce Palace
pendent principality, ruled by natural world. Mojmrovice Park (Katiel Mojmrovce)
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp35961 and pp3912
 W E S T S L O VA K I A 305

is linked with the members of (Ndvor Eurpy)

the Huady family, who comprises pavilions
settled here in about 1657 in a variety of arch-
and soon became the richest itectural styles from
local landowners. In 1721 different parts of
Huady built an opulent Europe. There are
Baroque residence, and close also fountains, statues
to it established a park with and a viewing tower.
many exotic trees and shrubs, The whole thing
regarded as one of the most constitutes an unusual
magnificent in the Hungarian shopping and leisure
Kingdom. They also founded centre, the largest in
a famous horse stud. The this part of Slovakia.
family members lived in the
palace until the end of World
War II. Levice
After 1945 the building was Castle s
used as an army hotel, a
surgery and a school, until Part of Europe Place in Komrno Road map D4. 60 km (37
1960, when it was left to miles) E of Nitra. @
deteriorate. Now, following its Komrno a
reconstruction and modern- The castle in Levice was
ization, it has been made into Road map D4. 72 km (45 miles) S built in the second half of
a luxury hotel, which still of Nitra. * 40,000. @ 1.5 km the 13th century to defend
attracts visitors with its magni- (1 mile) from town centre. the monastery in Hronsky
ficent park surroundings. n upn 5. Tel (035) 773 00 63. Baadik and the mining
_ Komrno Days (late Aprearly centres to the north. Its
May); Komrno Lehara (late Apr). central structures were the
Nov Zmky p Gothic palace and the round
Situated on the Slovak- tower. In the 16th century
Road map D4. 39 km (24 miles) S Hungarian border, at the Levice became one of the 15
of Nitra. * 42,000. point where the Vh flows fortresses defending the
into the Danube, Komrno country against attacks by the
was mentioned in historic Turks. Castle fortifications
In the 16th century, Nov records under the name of were so powerful that they
Zamk had a powerful Camarum as early as 1205. withstood the 1578 siege by
fortress, intended to resist the The original trading the Sultans army. The Turks
attacks by the Turks. Built in settlement, along a key captured Levice only in 1663,
157680 and based on the transport route that crossed but the next year they were
finest models of Renaissance the Danube, was devastated defeated in the great battle at
military architecture, the by the Mongol raid of 1243. the gates of the fortress, by
fortress was hexagonal in In 1745 Komrno was granted the Emperors army led by
shape, with solid bastions at the status of a royal free town Louis de Souches.
each corner. After the Turkish by Empress Maria Theresa. The castle was destroyed
expansionist threat, the The town is worth during Rkczis insur-
fortress ceased to have any visiting, not for its rection against the
military significance, and it historic buildings, as Habsburgs, in 1703
was demolished on the orders few remain, but as (see p263). The
of Emperor Charles VI in a major centre of Eszterhzy
1724. One of its remaining Slovak national family, which
mementos is the historic minorities. Its became the
Calvary a set of Late-Baroque street signs are owners of Levice
Stations of the Cross, dating in both Slovak and in the 18th century,
from 1779, in the southeast Hungarian, and decided not to
section of the fortifications. the Hungarian A female deity figure, rebuild it. Even so,
Also in the town are the influence is strong. Levice Regional Museum the ruins of the
17th-century Franciscan Komrno Days castle are well
Church and Monastery, now festival is a lively event cele- preserved. The Renaissance
the home of the Regional brating Slovak and Hungarian building (1571) in the lower
Museum (Mzeum Jna cultures. Every other year courtyard houses an interesting
Thaina), which has displays another festival, the Komrno Regional Museum with exhibits
on local history and weaponry. Lehara, includes a singing on the history of the castle and
The Trinity Column in Hlavn competition in honour of local archaeology.
Nmesti dates from 1749. Franz Lehr (18701948), the
composer of famous operettas E Regional Museum
E Regional Museum Sv. Michala 40. Tel (036) 631 21 12.
and a native of Komrno.
M.R. tefnika 58. Tel (035) 640 00 # daily (NovMar: closed Sat).
The modern complex
32. # TueSat. www.muzeumnz.sk www.muzeumlevice.sk
known as Europe Place
 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 307

C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A

M
any people regard the central region of Slovakia as the true
heart of the country, not only geographically, but also in a
spiritual sense. There is no doubt that the region played a
crucial part in building Slovak national identity, and particularly
in the eyes of foreigners presents the most stereotypical image of
Slovakia as the land of mountains, castles and caves.
There are many reasons why by countless artists,
Central Slovakia is throughout the year
regarded as the region they attract visitors for
that made the greatest rock-climbing, hiking
contributions to the and skiing. It is worth
countrys history. It was combining a visit to the Tatras with a
here, in 1861, that the plan for trip to the neighbouring Pieniny
national rebirth was unveiled; here beautiful small-scale mountains on
the Slovak language was codified for the border with Poland, which are
the first time; and here the Slovak famous for the scenic Dunajec canyon.
National Uprising against the Nazis The urban heart of Central Slovakia
broke out in 1944. In the local is Bansk Bystrica, a town filled with
mountains the most famous Slovak magnificent historic sights, many of
outlaw, the brave Jnok, robbed them bearing witness to the past
the rich and helped the poor. This is history of the region, which grew
also the only land mentioned in the rich on the mining of gold, silver and
Slovak national anthem, Thunder other precious metals. Other man-
above the Tatras. made attractions in Central Slovakia
Situated in the northern part of the include numerous architectural
region, the Tatras are the highest and sights, such as the fairy-tale castle in
most formidable mountains in Bojnice; Oravsk Castle, perched on
Slovakia. Shrouded in legends, a craggy cliff; and the timber houses
photographed, painted and described in imany and other villages.

View of snowy peaks in the Tatras, from Star Smokovec

White, geometric decoration on the faade of a house in imany

308 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring Central Slovakia

Central Slovakia offers numerous attractions, not only SEE ALSO
for those interested in history and folklore, but also for
Where to Stay pp3624
sports enthusiasts. This is primarily a mountainous
region, encompassing the bleak High Tatras, and the Where to Eat pp3924
gentler, forested Low Tatras. In these areas, winter
travel, even by car, can prove very difficult,
particularly in bad weather. At any time of the
year, be prepared for sudden changes in
weather and temperature. The cities and
villages provide good bases for
exploring the countryside and are
interesting destinations in themselves. BEDB

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 C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 309

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For additional map symbols see back flap

310 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Bansk Bystrica 1 the town, the latter dated

1479. Behind the Matthias
Baska Bystrica (Neusohl) is one of Slovakias oldest House is the old cemetery.
towns. In 1255 it was granted royal privileges
associated with the mining of gold, silver and copper, P Barbican and Town Walls
which brought wealth to the town and its inhabitants In the 16th century the town
was surrounded by mighty
from medieval times. The towns prosperity is evident in walls intended to protect it
many fine examples of religious and secular architecture. against Turkish invasion. Only
Bansk Bystricas main contribution to modern history some of the old fortifications
is that in 1944 it became the centre of the Slovak National have survived. Still standing
Uprising (Slovensk nrodn povstanie, or SNP). are the Pisrska, Banicka and
Farsk bastions. The former
defence tower with a draw-
bridge and barbican is in
Nmestie tefana Moyzesa.
Hanging inside the tower are
three bells; the heaviest
weighs nearly 10 tonnes.

R Church of Our Lady

See pp31213.

P Old Town Hall

Municipal Gallery Nmestie
tefana Moyzesa 25. Tel (048) 412
48 64. # 10am5pm TueFri,
10am4pm Sat, Sun. www.ssgbb.sk
Adjacent to the Church of
The house at the end of Nrodna, with a passage to the market square Our Lady is the Old Town Hall
(Star radnica), a plain white
Exploring the town 1452, instead of 1492, on the building with a small tower
The historic sights are concen- portal. The interesting and an arcaded loggia. Built
trated on the route that runs features of the interior include in about 1500, it was remod-
along the pedestrianized the 1652 stone font and the elled in Renaissance style, in
Doln, the large market square main altarpiece with statues the second half of the 16th
Nmestie SNP, and Horn. of the Virgin Mary and Mary century. Now it is the home
The middle section of this Magdalene, the work of of Bansk Bystricas Municipal
area is occupied by Nmestie Vavrinec Dunajsk in 1834. Gallery (ttna galria).
tefana Moyzesa the central
square, flanked by buildings P Matthias House P Nmestie SNP
of the old castle complex. The astonishingly tall, six- Central Slovak Museum
Built in the 12th and 13th storey Matthias House Tel (048) 412 58 97. # 9am5pm
centuries, it consists of both (Matejov dom) was built in MonFri, 14pm Sun (also JulAug:
religious and secular buildings. 1479 for Beatrice, wife of the 9am1pm Sat).
All that remains of the original Hungarian King Matthias www.stredoslovenskemuzeum.sk
town walls and the castles 18 Corvinus. The south faade Thurzo House (Thurzov dom)
bastions are three bastions sports a Gothic portal, a stone is the most beautiful building
and one long section of the balcony and the coats of arms in the market square. Its core
wall within the castle area. The of Matthias Corvinus and of consists of two Gothic houses,
castle complex also includes which at the turn of
the parish Church of Our Lady the 15th and 16th
(see pp31213); the Church of centuries became
the Holy Cross; the Matthias the property of the
House; the barbican with a Thurzo family. The
tower; and the town hall. building was given
its present appear-
R Church of the Holy Cross ance in the second
5 9am Sun. half of the 16th
This aisleless, Late-Gothic century, when its
church (Kostol Svteho faade was deco-
Kra), dating from 1492, was rated with Renais
once known as the Slovak sance sgraffito. Since
church, since the majority of 1958 the palace has
its congregation consisted of been the home of
Slovaks. In 1782 a new the Central Slovak
entrance was added on the Museum (Stredoslo-
south side, with a carved date The Old Town Hall (1500) vensk mzeum). Its
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 B A N S K B Y S T R I C A 311

collections illustrate the Army. The column was VISITORS CHECKLIST

regions history, from moved to a position
prehistoric times to the in front of the Church Road map E3. * 82,100.
early 20th century. of Our Lady. It was @ 1 km (0.5 mile) E of town
The Renaissance returned to its centre; local train station just
clock tower was built original site in 1993. over Hron river S of town centre.
in 1552. In the past it n Nmestie SNP 1. Tel (048)
served as an observa- P Doln 161 86. # OctApr: 9am5pm
tion post, a prison and At the extension of MonFri; MaySep: 9am6pm
torture chamber. Nmestie SNP are two MonFri, 9am1pm Sat.
During reconstruction streets with historic
works carried out in houses: Horn (Upper)
1762 and 1784 it was Detail of the and Doln (Lower). E SNP Museum
found that the tower house at No. 9 Bethlenov dom at No. Kapitulsk 23. Tel (048) 412 32 58.
was not vertical. Now Doln 8 Doln is where in # 9am6pm TueSun (to 4pm
its top is out of line by 1620 the Hungarian OctApr). www.muzeumsnp.sk
68 cm (27 in). In the 19th parliament elected Gbor The Museum of the Slovak
century brass bands used to Bethlen, prince of National Uprising is housed in
give concerts from the top- Transylvania, as the king of a concrete building in two
floor gallery. The place offers Hungary. The Latin inscription sections linked by a bridge.
a magnificent view of the on the faade reads: The The building was erected in
entire town and environs. Lords blessing enriches the 1965, to a design by Duan
The 18th-century Jesuit common people. The tower Kuzma. The extensive exhibits
church standing at the corner at the side of the courtyard is focus on the history of
of the square, designed in an original medieval structure. Slovakia in 19381945, with
Early-Baroque style, was particular emphasis on
modelled on the Il Ges the 1944 uprising
church in Rome. The against the Nazis, and
resemblance is, however, far on the fate of Slovak
from obvious, particularly Jews. The surrounding
since in 1844 the church was park contains an
given two square towers with- exhibition of the
out cupolas. weapons used by the
The Baroque Marian column insurgents, including
at one corner of the square tanks. Among its most
dates from 1719. In the late interesting exhibits is
1960s it was decided to remove an original Li-2 aircraft
this from Nmestie SNP and with full interior
replace it with a granite equipment, with
obelisk honouring the Red The striking silhouette of the SNP Museum visitor access.

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Key to Symbols see back flap
312 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Bansk Bystrica: The Parish Church of

the Ascension of the Virgin Mary
Construction of the church (Nanebovzatia Panny Mrie)
began in 1255. In the early 14th century it was widened
and given a Gothic sacristy. Two centuries later it
acquired the presbytery, the oratory and the side
chapels, and its famous altar of St Barbara. Following a
great fire in 1761 it was rebuilt in Baroque style; in 1770
its interior was given new, magnificent furnishings.

. Altar of St Barbara
The ornate Gothic altar-
piece of St Barbara
(patron saint of
miners), in the north
View of the Church side chapel, is the
The churchs tower grey with red churchs greatest
decorations is a town landmark. The treasure. Made by
simple arches of the tower windows Master Pavol of
indicate their Romanesque origin. Levoa, it depicts
the Madonna and
Child, St Barbara
and St Jerome.

Interior
The most striking features of the
beautiful interior are the pulpit and
the organ loft. The bronze font, by
Master Jodok, is a masterpiece of
medieval metalwork.

Christ on the Mount of Olives

The vivid Baroque sculpture outside the
church depicting Christ and saints was
renovated in 1995.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 B A N S K B Y S T R I C A 313

Vault Paintings VISITORS CHECKLIST

The imposing
Baroque paintings Nmestie Moyzesa.
Tel (048) 412 45 31.
covering the barrel-
5 noon, 4:30pm MonFri;
vault are by Anton 4:30pm Sat; 7am, 8:30am,
Schmidt. They were 11am, 4:30pm Sun.
made during the # only during mass and
renovation of the celebrations. ^
church, which
followed the 1761
town fire.

Main Altarpiece
Paintings in the
main altarpiece
(1774) are by Jan
Lukas Kracker.
They portray the
Assumption of the
Virgin Mary and
the Holy Trinity.

. Side Altar
The south chapel,
to the right of the
nave, contains
a 15th-century
Gothic triptych
of St Mary
Magdalene, one
of the most
treasured items
of the churchs
original
furnishings.

Porch
The new main STAR FEATURES
entrance in the porch, . Altar of St Barbara
with a stellar vault and
an attractive portal, was . Side Altar
added in 14731516.
314 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Zvolen Castle, a superbly preserved example of Gothic-Renaissance architecture

Zvolen 2 Gothic and Renaissance

houses on the square is the
centre is Holy Trinity square
(Nmestie sv. Trojice), lined
Road map D3. 20 km (12 miles) S of Protestant Church of the Holy with Gothic and Renaissance
Bansk Bystrica. * 42,000. @ Trinity (sv. Trojice), built in houses. It has a sandstone
n Nmestie Svobody 22. Tel (045) 19213. It includes a Neo- Baroque Holy Trinity monu-
530 32 19. # 9am5pm MonFri. Gothic altarpiece with a huge ment. On the south side is the
www.zvolen.net figure of Christ. 15th-century Church of St
On the southwestern out- Catherine (sv. Katerna), with
A settlement was established skirts of the town are the ruins lovely net vaulting.
here by Bela IV in the mid- of Pusty Fortress. Scattered The Old Castle (Star
13th century. In 1326 Zvolen, over a vast area in the middle zmok) was turned from a
known at the time in German of a forest are fragments of church into a fortress when
as Altsohl, and in Hungarian walls, bastions and gates of the town was threatened by
as Zlyom, was granted town one of the biggest fortresses the Turks. Currently being re-
privileges. It soon became a in medieval Europe. stored, it has some interesting
trading centre and in the 19th artifacts. The whitewashed
+ Zvolen Castle
century also a centre of the New Castle (Nov zmok), on
# TueSun. Tue (OctApr). &
timber industry. a hillock to the south of the
Zvolen Castle is in the town centre, was also built against
centre. Construction began in the Turks. The town has a
the reign of King Louis of magnificent Mining Museum
Hungary, before 1382. At the (Bansk mzeum), with several
start of the 15th century it sites, including an open-air
became the property of the area outside the centre.
Thurzos, one of Hungarys
+ Old Castle
richest families. The new Starozmock 11. Tel (045) 694 94
owners rebuilt the castle in 72. # MaySep: daily; Jan, Mar,
Renaissance style and Apr, Dec: TueSun; Feb, Oct, Nov:
reinforced its system of forti- TueFri. &
fications. Now, carefully + New Castle
restored, it is one of Slovakias Novozmock 22. Tel (045) 691 15
best-preserved examples of 43. # MaySep: daily; Feb, Mar:
16th-century architecture. The TueSun; Jan, Apr: TueFri. &
castle chapel has a Gothic E Mining Museum
portal. In the 18th-century The Hall of Mirrors in the Palace of Kammerhofsk 2. Tel (045) 691 29
Baroque hall is a magnificent St Anton near Bansk tiavnica 71. # MaySep: daily; Jan, Feb:
coffered ceiling divided into TueFri; Mar, Apr, OctDec:
MonFri. & www.muzeumbs.sk
78 fields filled with portraits of Bansk tiavnica 3
Habsburg kings and emperors.
The castle houses permanent Road map D4. 40 km (25 miles) S of Environs
exhibitions of Gothic Bansk Bystrica. * 10,000. @ n In the village of Antol, 5 km
stonework and 16th18th- Nmestie sv. Trojice 6. Tel (045) 692 05 (3 miles) southeast of Bansk
century European art from the 35. www.banskastiavnica.sk tiavnica, is the Baroque Palace
Slovak National Museum. of St Anton, with beautiful
In the market square is the Between the 13th and 18th interiors. It houses a museum.
late 14th-century Catholic centuries Bansk tiavnica
Church of St Elizabeth (sv. was one of Europes main + Palace of St Anton
Tel (045) 691 39 32. # MaySep:
Albety). Inside is the chapel mining centres, and grew into
Tue Sun; OctApr: TueSat. &
of Our Lady of Sorrows, the third-largest town in the 8 2 routes. www.msa.sk
dating from 1650. Amid the Hungarian Kingdom. At the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 315

Kremnica 4 Martin Memorandum was Oravsk Castle 6

announced in 1861 pro-
Road map D3. 20 km (12 claiming the Slovak national Road map E3. 80 km (50 miles) N of
miles) W of Bansk Bystrica. rebirth programme. In Bansk Bystrica. @ to Oravsk
* 6,000. @ n 1918 the Slovak National Podzmok. Tel (043) 581 61 11.
tefnikovo nmestie 35/44. Council approved the # MayMar: daily. &
Tel (045) 678 27 80. Martin Declaration ex-
pressing the wish to Resembling an eagles nest
This little mountain form, with the Czechs, clinging to a mighty 120-m
town was one of the the state of (400-ft) cliff, Oravsk Castle is
richest in the Czechoslovakia. first mentioned in historical
Hungarian Kingdom The town is rich in records of 1267. New parts of
from the 14th to the historic sites, such as the castle were added gradu-
19th centuries. Its the 13th-century Church ally to the original citadel up
source of wealth was of St Martin (sv. until the 17th century. In 1800
the nearby gold mines. Martin). The Slovak the castle burned down, and
The history of gold mining National Museum in restoration began only in 1953.
and of the mint, which Martin (Slovensk Some of the castles quarters
minted the highly valued nrodn mzeum) has are now used by the Orava
Kremnica ducats, many collections, Museum to display its
and which still Statue of St Stephen, both in the main archaeological, historical and
operates, are traced Church of St building and in ethnographic collections.
in the interesting Catherine, Kremnica branches, mainly
Museum of Coins focusing on Slovak
and Medals (Mzeum minc a folk exhibits. One of the most
medaili) in the main square. spectacular is the Slovak Village
Also in the square is a gold- Museum (Mzeum slovenskej
covered Baroque Marian dediny). This open-air museum
column. In the 15th-century 2 km (1 mile) south of the town
Castle is the Gothic Church of is a huge collection of
St Catherine (sv. Katerna). traditional wooden buildings
principally from the Orava
E Museum of Coins and region in the north of Slovakia.
Medals
tefnikovo nmestie 10/19.
E Slovak National Museum
Tel 045) 674 26 96. # TueSun. &
in Martin
Mal Hora 2. Tel (043) 413 10 11.
# TueSun. & www.snm.sk
Martin 5 E Slovak Village Museum
Jahodncke Hje. Tel (043) 413 26
Road map D3. 68 km (42 miles) NW 86. # NovApr: TueFri, Sun; May
of Bansk Bystrica. * 61,000. Jun: TueSun; JulAug: daily; Sep, Viewing terrace on the walls of
Bitnkova. @ n M.R. tefnika Oct: TueSun. & www.snm.sk the Oravsk Castle
9/A. Tel (043) 423 87 76. # 9am
5pm MonFri (Jul, Aug: also Sat).
SLOVAK TRADITIONAL ARCHITECTURE
A symbol of the Slovaks Historic wooden buildings are among Slovakias great-
struggle for a place among est attractions. In almost every village it is still
the nation states of Europe, possible to see buildings erected centuries ago, using
Martin was where the famous traditional methods, often without the use of
nails. Many regions feature conservation sites
of traditional architecture. The best known
are Vlkolnec and imany (see p322),
both in Central Slovakia. Many
treasures of traditional archi-
tecture have been gathered in
open-air museums (skansen).
The largest of them, the
Slovak Village Museum in
Martin, features 100 houses
from northern Slovakia. In
East Slovakia, in Bardejov (see
p333), is one of the oldest
open-air museums. In the same
region are the Unitarian
churches in the area around A timber house (1792) in the
Gothic Church of St Martin in Svidnk (see p333). Slovak Village Museum
historic Martin
316 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Tatras Mountains 7

Slovakias Northern Tatras mountains

consist of three ranges: the Western
Tatras (Zpadn Tatry), the High Tatras
(Vysok Tatry) and the small area of
Beliansk Tatry, a protected reserve with
only one path open to the public. All are
within the Tatra National Park. The
Logo of the Tatra most spectacular range, the High
National Park Tatras, is a magnet for walkers.
View from Around
Zuberec
Zuberec, a village at
the mouth of the
Rohska Dolina Rohsky Waterfall
(valley), affords This is one of the most scenic
magnificent views of attractions of the 5-km
Rohae, the start of (3-mile) long post-glacial
the Western Tatras. valley, Rohska Dolina.
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castle, later extended
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palace and now National border
housing an Ethno-
Viewpoint
graphy Museum.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 317

VISITORS CHECKLIST Dunajec Gorge 8

Road map E3. k Poprad-Tatry.
Road map E3. Rafting AprOct:
from Poprad to Tatransk
8am7pm daily, various operators.
Lomnica, Star Smokovec, trbsk
& www.pieniny.sk
Pleso. n Star Smokovec.
trbsk Pleso, Tatransk Lomnica.
The Dunajec river flows from
Tel (052) 442 34 40.
west to east, dividing Slovakia
# 8am4pm (MaySep: to 6pm).
and Poland, through Pieniny
National Park. This was
diar combined with a park in
Founded in the 17th Poland to form the first
century, the village of international nature reserve in
diar features many Europe, in 1932. Through this
restored wooden highland picturesque mountain scenery
houses with a variety the river has cut a magnificent
of decorations. 9-km (6-mile) long canyon,
whose white limestone walls
rise vertically, in some places
to the height of 500 m
Lomnick tt (1,640 ft) above the water
#6,08*/"
5"53;"/4,"
Lomnick tt, the second- level. From April to October it
highest peak in the Tatras, is is possible to experience an
accessible by cable unusual thrill: floating through
car. the Dunajec Gorge on a
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wooden raft steered by the
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Star Smokovec
This attractive spa complex has
several hotels, pensions and
restaurants that blend well with
their woodland surroundings.

Gerlachovsk tt
The Tatras highest peak, Gerlachovsk
tt (2,654 m/8,707 ft), can be climbed Wooden rafts navigating the
only with a professional guide. Dunajec Gorge

Valley of the Five Spis Tarns in the Slovak High Tatras

320 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Bojnice Castle 9

The romantic, turreted Bojnice Castle is one of

Slovakias greatest tourist attractions. Rising high
above the town, it was originally built in the 12th
century. In the 13th century it passed into the hands
of the most powerful Hungarian warlord of the time,
Mat k. In 1527 the Thurzo family converted the
castle into a comfortable Renaissance residence, and
in the 19th century its last owner, Count Jn Frantiek
Plffy, remodelled it into a stately residence resembling
the Gothic castles of Frances Loire valley.

Plffys Tomb
From the castle crypt,
containing the
magnificent marble Chapel
tomb of Jn Plffy, a The chapel with its magnifi-
passage leads to a cent stuccoed and painted
cave inside vault was built in the
the hill. 17th century, in a
former bastion.

. Golden Hall
The magnificent vault, made
of pine and covered with gold
leaf, was modelled on the
interior of the Venetian
Academy of Fine Arts.

Music Room
The present Music Room was
once Jn Plffys bedroom. The The castle courtyards
piano pictured was made in are used in the
Vienna in 1884. summer as venues for
tournaments and
falconry shows.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 321

Castle Grounds VISITORS CHECKLIST

Bojnice is in a
large park with Road map D3. 5 km (3 miles)
from Prievidza. @ from
many rare species
Bratislava. Tel (046) 543 06
of trees, including 33. # May, Jun, Sep: 9am
what is claimed to 5pm TueSun; Jul, Aug: 9am
be the oldest lime 5pm daily; OctApr:
tree in Slovakia. 10am3pm TueSun. & f
In summer, events www.bojnicecastle.sk
are staged in
the grounds.

Central Castle
The rooms of the central
castle are furnished in
Gothic style. The top floor
features the Knights Hall.

Neo-Gothic
gallery

Entrance
tower and
gate

Well in the Fourth

Courtyard
The well standing in the
smallest of the castles
courtyards was once
linked to an old thermal
spring. Its decorative grille
was made in 1895.

. Bojnice Altarpiece
STAR FEATURES The altarpiece painted by Nardo di Cione the
. Bojnice Altarpiece only complete surviving work by the artist is
the most important piece from Jn Plffys
. Golden Hall collection. It was painted in the mid-14th
century, using tempera paint on a wooden panel.
322 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

imany w
Road map D3. 40 km (25 miles) S of
ilina. * 200. @ from ilina.

This village in the Rajanka

valley resembles a set of ginger-
bread houses. For the last 200
years, the wooden walls of its
buildings have been decorated
with white geometric patterns
painted with lime. In 1921 a fire
consumed a large portion of
imany, but the village was
rebuilt by its inhabitants in its
original form. In the two-storey
Traditional timber church, Svt Kr Radens house (No. 42) is the
Povask Museum with photo-
Svt Kr 0 ilina q graphs, embroidered costumes,
and furniture illustrating village
Road map E3. 20 km (12 miles) E Road map D3. 29 km (18 miles) life. There is an interesting
of Ruomberok. * 680. @ from NW of Martin. * 90,000. @ section on tinkers.
Ruomberok. n Republiky 1. Tel (041) 723 31 86.
E Povask Museum
www.tikzilina.sk
Tel (041) 500 15 11. # SepJun:
The Protestant Evangelic TueSun; Jul, Aug: daily. _ August.
Lutheran Church in the village A good base for the nearby & 8 www.pmza.sk
of Svt Kr is one of the Mal Fatra mountains, the
largest timber churches in town of ilina has a
Europe. This vast building has particularly striking main
an area of 659 sq m (7,090 sq square, Mariansk nmestie.
ft). It was transported to its Arcades run along all four
present site from the village of sides of the square market
Paldza, which in 1982 was place at the centre of the old
flooded to form the artificial town. The most conspicuous
lake of Liptovsk Mara. of its colourful restored
The church was built in 1774, buildings are the Old Town
when Emperor Leopold let Hall, the Baroque Church of
Protestants put up churches, on St Paul (sv. Pavel) and the Traditional white painted
condition that they were built Jesuit monastery in the south- decoration on a house in imany
of timber and outside town western corner of the square.
boundaries. It was constructed Standing at the centre is the
by a local carpenter, Jozef
Lang, with 40 helpers, without
1738 Marian Column.
Interesting sites along Farska
Velk Uherce
the use of a single nail and include the Holy Trinity Church Palace e
without help from any archi- (Najsvtejie Trojice) dating
tect. It took them eight months from around 1400, and the Road map D3. 48 km (30 miles) N
and 22 days. The church can nearby Burian Tower, a 46-m of Levice. @ to the public.
accommodate 6,000 people. (150-ft) tall Renaissance struc- Enjoying a lovely location on
ture topped with a cupola mountain slopes, the village
R Evangelic Lutheran Church
identical to that of the adjacent of Velk Uherce is known for
Tel (044) 559 26 22. # daily. &
church tower. In Nmestie A its huge palace surrounded by
5 Sun 9am. www.dreveny
Hlinku is the Museum of Art an English-style park. The
kostol.sk
(Povask galria) with a original Renaissance castle
collection by modern Slovak was built in 1622 by Michal
Environs artists. On a hillside at the Bossanyi. Remodelled in
Vlkolnec, near the large, west end of the town, in the 18th century in
industrial town of Ruomberok, Zvodsk sesta, stands the Gothic style, it was given
was in 1993 named a UNESCO Church of St Stephen the appearance of a
World Cultural Heritage Site (sv. tefana), one of Neo-Gothic
as a unique example of a the oldest in residence in the
well-preserved complex of 45 Slovakia, contain- spirit of English
timber houses in a typical ing 14th-century Romanticism in
village of the Liptov region. wall paintings. the second half of
Interesting features include the the 19th century.
old well, which still supplies E Museum of Art Until 1945 the palace
tefnikova 2. Tel (041)
the village with water, and the was owned by
562 25 22. # Tue
1770 belfry of the Baroque Coat of arms, Velk the Thonet family,
Sun. & www.pgu.sk
Church of the Virgin Mary. Uherce Palace one of the worlds
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3624 and pp3924
 C E N T R A L S L O VA K I A 323

biggest furniture manufac- a museum with a collection of the rich mining towns of
turers. After World War II the the palaces historic furniture Central Slovakia. It was at that
nationalized property was and paintings. The English- time converted into a fortified
badly damaged. Reconstruction style park with a hunting stronghold, by strengthening its
works, which started in the lodge and world-famous stud outside walls, blocking up the
1990s, have ceased and now deserves a separate visit. vast Gothic windows and
the interiors provide only a erecting bastions.
vague indication of the Environs
palaces former glory. The About 10 km (6 miles) to the
park, although neglected, south is the Mlyany Luenec y
remains impressive. Arboretum, established in 1892
by tefan Ambrzy-Migazzi, a Road map E4. 80 km (50 miles) SE of
Hungarian fascinated by Bansk Bystrica. * 30,000. @ n
botany and dendrology. Masarykova 14. Tel (047) 433 15 13.
Today this is Slovakias richest
collection of coniferous trees. One of the centres of
The site, an area of 67 ha (165 Slovakias Hungarian national
acres), features nearly 2,400 minority, Luenec has been
different species, representing known since the 13th century
all regions of the world. under a variety of names,
Particularly interesting are the including Lucheneh, Luenia
specimens brought back by and Losonc. In 1919 it found
scientific expeditions to China itself within the borders of
and Korea, planted on a 20-ha Czechoslovakia, and during
(50-acre) site devoted to Far 193845 belonged briefly to
Eastern flora; also worth Hungary. In its fairly small
exploring is the exotic market square, Kubnyiho
collection of North nmestie, is the former
The south wing of Topolianky American plants. Neo-Gothic Calvinist
Palace, now a museum church of 1853, with
Y Mlyany an unusual ceramic-
Topolianky Arboretum tiled roof and a
Veska nad itavou tower crowned with
Palace r 178. Tel (037) 633 42 a gilded cockerel.
11. # daily. & 8
Inside is the
Road map D4. 30 km (19 miles) N Novohradsk
of Levice. Museum Tel (037) 777
Museum, its col-
75 55. # MayAug: 9am3pm Tue Hronsk Sculpture at Hronsk lection illustrating
Fri, noon4pm Sat, Sun; SepApr:
10am3pm TueFri, noon4pm Sat,
Beadik Beadik Abbey the regions culture,
including glass, fur-
Sun. & 8 0 - Abbey t niture and musical instruments.
www.zamok-topolcianky.sk
In Filakovska, south of the
Road map D4. 20 km (12 miles) N
One of Slovakias most market square, stands an
of Levice. @ Tel (045) 689 31
beautiful historic buildings, the enormous Art Nouveau
98. # Jul, Aug: 9:30am5:30pm
Topolianky Palace was built synagogue dating from 1926,
MonFri; SepJun: by appt. 8 (903)
in the 15th century on the site one of the largest in Europe,
938 393. www.benadik-klastor.sk
of an older building. Over the which has now deteriorated.
following centuries the The Benedictine abbey in
E Novohradsk Museum
original Gothic palace Hronsk Beadik was
Kubnyho Nmestie 3. Tel (047) 433
changed hands several times, mentioned by historic sources
25 02. # Tue-Fri, Sun. www.nmg.sk
becoming the property of the as early as 1075. In the late
Hungarian families of Rakoczy, 14th century its Romanesque
Erddy and Zichy, who during buildings were rebuilt in the
the Renaissance period turned Gothic style. The triple-naved
it into a four-wing residence church with an impressive
surrounding an arcaded court- portal and a beautiful vault is
yard. The Neo-Classical south from that period. The most
wing with its splendid portico interesting features of the
was added in the 18th century. interior include the Gothic wall
In 1890 the palace became painting depicting the legend of
one of the Habsburgs resi- St George; and St Scholasticas
dences, and during 192351 altar with 15th-century carved
was used as the summer figures of the Virgin Mary and
residence of the presidents St Benedict. In the 16th
of Czechoslovakia. century, during the period of
Now the Renaissance part is growing Turkish threat, the
being used as a hotel, while monastery assumed military The former Art Nouveau
the Neo-Classical wing houses significance, guarding access to synagogue in Luenec
 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N 325

E A S T S L O VA K I A

M
any regard East Slovakia as the most fascinating part of the
country. The regions cultural riches, particularly evident
in the large number of towns that have maintained or
restored their medieval character, go hand in hand with the beauty of
its natural environment: the astonishing karst scenery and the
mountainous areas barely touched by civilization.
Situated in the western part the nearby Slovensk
of East Slovakia, rj (Slovak Paradise).
southeast of the Tatras Some of the dripstone
Mountains, is the Spi formations (stalagmites
region (known as Zips and stalactites) that occur
in German, and Szepes here are unequalled anywhere else in
in Hungarian), a historic land rich in Europe. Both areas attract hikers.
examples of Late-Gothic art that bear Koice, in the central part of the
witness to the centuries-long region, is Slovakias second-largest
intermingling of the Slovak, city, boasting the magnificent
Hungarian, German, Polish, Cathedral of St Elizabeth and the
Ruthenian (Rusyn) and Jewish carefully restored old town. The
cultures. The places listed on the historic town centre of nearby Preov
UNESCO World Cultural Heritage is also well preserved.
roster Levoa, Spi Castle and the The eastern part of the region,
charming village of ehra attract along the border with Poland, is
the greatest numbers of visitors, but sparsely populated and offers remote
interesting historic sites can be found and tranquil wilderness and pretty
in almost every village. wooden churches. Bardejov has a
The area to the south of Spi offers fine medieval centre, while Svidnk
not only hilly, wooded scenery but has an open-air exhibition of
also a fascinating subterranean traditional wooden folk architecture.
world. The vast cave systems are a The remote, unspoilt Vihorlat
world-class attraction of the mountains to the south provide
Slovensk kras (Slovak Karst) and of superb hiking opportunities.

Spi Castle, above the small town of Spisk Podhradie

Richly decorated walls of the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, Medzilaborce
326 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Exploring East Slovakia

East Slovakia offers a great variety of attractions. The
historic towns and villages of Spi, with the former capital of
the region Levoa are real treasure-houses of Slovakias
history. Koice, now the vibrant regional capital, enjoys a
well-deserved reputation as the cultural heart of the region.
Whats more, there is magnificent, unspoiled scenery, and,
scattered all over the region, small wooden village churches.
Slovensk kras delights its visitors with the natural riches of
the four great limestone caves that are open to visitors.
A tablet in the Church
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For additional map symbols see back flap

 E A S T S L O VA K I A 327

GETTING AROUND
Koice the main town of the region has an airport
with domestic flights to Bratislava, and several
international flights. Koice is also the major hub of
bus transport. The main road running through East
Slovakia is the 18 (international E50) leading from
ilina in Central Slovakia through Preov, to Koice.
East Slovakia is also crossed by the main Slovak
railway line, which runs from Bratislava via ilina to
Koice, with an extension to Humenn.

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SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp3645
Krsna Hrka Castle in the
Where to Eat pp3945
Slovensk kras
328 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Koice 1 and of great interest inside

and out, St Elizabeths
Slovakias second-largest city has roots Cathedral (Dm sv. Albety)
reaching back to the 12th century. At the is the largest church in
crossroads of major trade routes, it was Slovakia, and a supreme
granted in 1347 the same town privileges achievement of the European
Gothic. Its construction began
as the then capital of Hungary, Buda. In in 1378. The main, western
1369 King Louis the Great gave the town faade of this five-aisled
its coat of arms, making it the first town church was originally meant
Koices coat in Europe to receive this by royal decree. to have two towers, but by
of arms Due to its proximity to the Hungarian 1477 only one was built. In
border, the city has always had a large 1508 works were completed
Hungarian population. Its historic old town now on the vaulted presbytery. In
superbly restored, Koice is a lively, interesting city. 1775 the second tower of the
cathedral was built, topped
with a Rococo copper cupola.
The present form of the
church is the result of recon-
struction that began in the
late 19th century and restored
the cathedral to its former
appearance, close to the
original design. Inside, the
spectacular main altarpiece
has 48 panels. Take time also
to see the relief work over
the north and west doors.

P Urban Tower
The Plague Column and beautiful houses in Hlavn Hlavn.
The Urban Tower (Urbanova
Exploring the town souls of the dead. In the early vea) stands to the north of
The most interesting sights in 20th century 17 old tomb- St Elizabeths Cathedral. Built
Koice are clustered within its stones from the in the 14th century, it
large historic centre. The main cemetery were built was remodelled in
street, Hlavn, whose spindle into the chapel walls. Renaissance style in
shape is typical of the eastern Highlights include 1628. St Urbans
regions towns, runs north the altarpiece bell was cast in
south, with the main squares, depicting St 1557 and installed
Hlavn nmestie and Nmestie Michael the inside the tower.
slobody, and the cathedral in Archangel; the Dedicating it to St
the centre (see also pp33031). lovely stone Urban was inten-
tabernacle; and, ded to honour the
P Hlavn above the sacristy patron saint of vini-
This lovely avenue, full of door, the oldest culture: wine pro-
shops and cafs, makes for an coat of arms Detail from St duction has always
enjoyable evening stroll. The of Koice. Elizabeths Cathedral been a source of
most striking of its buildings Koices wealth.
are the Gothic Levoa House P St Elizabeths Cathedral
(Levosk dom) and the old Hlavn 28. Tel (091) 869 05 46. P Singing Fountain
town hall, its faade # daily. www.dom-rimkat.sk 8 Hlavn nmestie.
decorated with sculptures of Dominating the main square, In the square between the
ancient heroes by Anton Kraus. cathedral and the
The Plague Column (17223) theatre is the Singing
is Koices most beautiful Fountain (Spievajca
piece of Baroque sculpture. fontna), which spouts
water to recorded
R St Michaels Chapel music. At night, the
Hlavn 26. pearly jets are lit up by
The chapel (sv. Michal) was coloured lights that
built in the 14th century, on change with the
the site of a cemetery south rhythm of the music.
of St Elizabeths Cathedral. The fountain is at the
The lower section of the centre of a narrow
building served as an ossuary. water channel that
The upper section was used runs the length of
for celebrating masses for the Singing Fountain in Hlavn namestie the square.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
 K O I C E 329

F State Theatre P Executioners Bastion VISITORS CHECKLIST

Hlavn 58. Tel (055) 622 12 31. Hrniarska 7. # 9am5pm TueSat.
# performances only. www.sdke.sk The bastion (Katova bata) Road map F3. * 240,000.
The imposing building of the takes its name from the k 6 km (4 miles) from city
State Theatre (ttn divadlo) nearby house, which was centre. Stanin nmestie
was built in 189799, to a once the home of the towns @ Stanin nmestie.
design by Adolf Lang. Its lofty hangman. This semicircular n Hlavn 59. Tel (055) 625
dome is topped with the structure was built in about 88 88. # 9am6pm MonFri,
torch-bearing figure of Dawn. 1500 and served defensive 9am1pm Sat (also JunSep:
The interior, with its beautiful purposes, housing eight guns. 15pm Sun). www.kosice.sk
auditorium and lyre-shape The lower section of the
floor plan, features a bastion is reinforced with
magnificent ceiling slanting buttresses. u Former Synagogue
with paintings of Pukinova.
scenes from E East Slovak The former synagogue was
Shakespeare. The Museum built in 19267. In 1992 a
foyer and the rest Hviezdoslavova 3. bronze memorial plaque was
of the theatre are Tel (055) 622 03 09. added to the front of the
richly decorated # 9am5pm TueSat, building to commemorate
with stuccoes. 9am1pm Sun. & over 12,000 Jews who were
Bas-relief from the www.vsmuseum.sk taken from Koice to
R Jesuit Church Jesuit Churchs faade One of Slovakias concentration camps in 1944.
Junction of Hlavn oldest museums,
and Univerzitna. the East Slovak Museum
The church (Univerzitn (Vchodoslovensk mzeum)
kostol sv. Trojice), one of the was established in 1872 as the
finest remaining Baroque Upper Hungary Museum. Its
structures in Koice, was built vast collections, numbering
in 1681 by the Jesuit order. Its half a million exhibits, are dis-
austere, Early-Baroque faade played in an early 20th-century
bearing traces of the Neo-Renaissance building. The
Renaissance style hides a impressive faade is decorated
lavishly furnished interior, with the towns coat of arms
which includes a 17th-century and the carved figures of Per-
pulpit and stalls and a 19th- seus and Vulcan. The muse-
century main altar. The ums greatest attraction is the
central nave and all the side golden treasure of Koice a
chapels are beautifully huge find of nearly 3,000 gold
decorated with magnificent coins dating from the 15th to The Neo-Renaissance building
trompe-loeil paintings. the 17th centuries. housing the East Slovak Museum

KOICE CENTRE NMESTIE

East Slovak
MARATNU Museum
East Slovak Museum 9 MIERU
V O VA
Executioners Bastion 8 SLA
ZDO
H V IE
Former Synagogue 0 IKO
VA
BAC
Hlavn 1 KASRENSK
HLA

NMESTIE
T

Jesuit Church 7
VN

EF

I N
N

ZBROJ N
St Elizabeths Cathedral 3

IK
KO

MI

DN
St Michaels Chapel 2
OV

VO
V
MOYZESO

SIAR

Singing Fountain 5
SKA

Mestsky
SKA

State Theatre 6 BIE

LA
park
Urban Tower 4
VA

HRN

VA
Executioners
PO T O Bastion
Jesuit Church
IA
HRADBO V

RSK
ORL

0 metres 300
State Theatre
A
IA

NSK
0 yards 300 Singing Fountain M LY

TO DE JSK HLAVN Urban Tower Former

CY RIL ME NMESTE
Synagogue
St Elizabeths Cathedral
A

KEY
PU
SK

A St Michaels Chapel Train and bus stations

R

K IN

E T IN
A L B 300 m (330 yards)
ON

Street-by-Street see pp33031

OV

NMESTIE
ZV

SLOBODY
A

VR A
HLA

TN A OV
E LT
EV
TIMONOVA OS
VN

RO
Key to Symbols see back flap VA
IN O
P R IB
330 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Street-by-Street: Around St Elizabeths Cathedral

The long main street, Hlavn, the loveliest
avenue in Slovakia, follows the old trade
route through the town. It widens in its
middle section where it is crosscut by
Albetina and Mlynsk streets. This is the
towns central point, marked by the lofty
spire of St Elizabeths Cathedral and the
pointed, angular cap of the Urban Tower.
The area is awash with stately Baroque and
Neo-Classical buildings set amid greenery. Singing Fountain
Built in 1986 by Russian experts, this
Urban Tower huge fountain was the first attraction
Following the of its kind in Czechoslovakia.
Great Fire of Koice
in 1556 the once
Gothic tower was
rebuilt in
Renaissance style.
It was then that HLAVN
it acquired the NMESTIE
Urban Bell.

Urban Bell
The 5-tonne (some
say 7-tonne) bell was
removed from the
tower and
placed in the IN
A
square in the T
BE
1960s. L
A

0 metres 20

Archbishops Palace 0 yards 20

The palace is one of the newest buildings in KEY
Hlavn. It was constructed in 1804, on the
Suggested route
site of two older houses.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
 K O I C E 331

. St Elizabeths
Cathedral
The resplendent Gothic
main altarpiece
(14747), with 48
panel pictures in its side-
wings, depicts various
scenes. Some parts
include sculpture and
illustrate the life of St
Elizabeth, a Hungarian
princess and patron
saint of the town
and the church. Hlavn 39
Built for the Smidegh family in
1593, this house is one of many
magnificent buildings on Hlavn.

. St Michaels
Chapel
The Archangel

SK Michael is the patron
N
LY saint of the 14th-
M century chapel in the
cemetery by St
Elizabeths
Cathedral. He is
depicted in a
doorway relief
weighing the souls
of the dead.

NMESTIE
SLOBODY

Hlavn 26
This 19012 Art
Nouveau house
is one of several
notable Art Nouveau
faades in the street.

STAR SIGHTS
. St Elizabeths
Cathedral

. St Michaels Chapel
332 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Reserve is Sninsk Crag

(Sninsk Kame), a steep
climb to 1,005 m (3,300 ft),
the final section ascended by
steel ladders. From the top it
is possible to see the emerald
lake of Morsk oko (Sea Eye)
sparkling in the crater of an
extinct volcano.

Medzilaborce 4
Road map F3. 43 km (27 miles) E of
Svidnk. * 6,000. @
Rakoczy Palace (Regional Museum) in Preov
This small town, close to the
Preov 2 by Josef Hartmann. In front of border with Poland, owes its
the church is a Baroque Plague fame to the American painter
Road map F3. 38 km (24 miles) N of Column and the 19th-century Andy Warhol, leading creator
Koice. * 91,000. @ Neptunes Fountain. Opposite of pop art. His parents,
n Hlavn 67. Tel (051) 773 11 13. is the late 16th-century Renais- Ruthenian immigrants, came
www.micpresov.sk sance Rakoczy Palace, now a from the neighbouring village
Regional Museum (arisk of Mikov. The Warhol
Slovakias third-largest town is mzeum). The suburb of Family Museum of Modern
first heard of in 1247. It was a Solivar features an interesting Art (Mzeum modernho
thriving centre of salt mining complex of historic buildings umenia) in Medzilaborce is in
from the 13th century, and associated with salt mining. a chunky concrete building.
mining ceased only in the On display are 18 of Warhols
19th century. During the 16th E Regional Museum original screen prints, including
Hlavn 85. Tel (051) 773 47 08.
and 17th centuries it became his iconic paintings of
# TueFri, Sun. & 8 -
a Reformation stronghold. Campbells soup cans, the blue
www.muzeumpresov.sk
One of the major events in cat and Ingrid Bergman as a
the towns history was the nun. There are also mementos
1687 Preov massacre, when Vihorlat 3 associated with his family.
24 Protestants were publicly The town was severely
executed on the town square Road map F3. E of Koice. @ damaged during the two
for allegedly supporting an World Wars, but its attractive
anti-Habsburg insurrection. A small range of volcanic 18th-century Greek Orthodox
Dominating the towns mountains, Vihorlat runs near Church of the Holy Spirit (sv.
historic district is the 1347 the border with Ukraine. This Ducha) has survived.
Gothic Church of St Nicholas is one of the quietest, least
(sv. Mikul), on the main populated corners of E Warhol Family Museum
street, Hlavn. It has magnifi- Slovakia. The local attractions of Modern Art
A Warhola 749/26. Tel (057) 748
cent Gothic paintings and include the lovely reservoir, 00 72. # TueSun. & 8
Baroque furnishings, particu- Zamplinsk irava (Slovak
larly its 17th-century high altar Sea), surrounded by camp
with figures of saints carved sites. In the Vihorlat Nature

ANDY WARHOL (19281987)

The real name of the king of pop art
was Andrej Varchola. Born in the
USA to Ruthenian parents, he studied
painting and design. In 1942 he began
to sign his works Andy Warhol. Six
years later he had his first one-man
show in New York. In about 1960 he
started to paint pictures of everyday
objects, banknotes, metro tickets
and cigarettes. He executed his
works with the precision of an
illustrator, often choosing
advertising motifs for his topics.
His most famous works include
Statue of Andy Warhol in the widely copied series of
Medzilaborce portraits of Marilyn Monroe. Screen of icons in the Church of
the Holy Spirit in Medzilaborce

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
 E A S T S L O VA K I A 333

Bardejov 6 nearby, built in 1717 of red

spruce and yew, has a richly
Road map F3. 42 km (26 miles) N of decorated main altar, a carved
Preov. * 32,000. @ from Preov. pulpit and a stone font dating
n Radnin nmestie 21. Tel (054) from 1690 that is older than
541 61 86. www.e-bardejov.sk the church itself. To the north
of the town square with its
Mentioned by chroniclers as Neo-Classical town hall stands
early as 1241, this large town a 15th-century castle built by
has retained its medieval Imre Zpolya, and remodelled
character. The superbly by the Thkly family into a
preserved old towns long Renaissance residence; today
market square, Radnin it is the Kemarok Museum.
nmestie, is flanked on three
Czechoslovak Army Monument at sides by over 40 houses built E Kemarok Museum
Hradn nmestie 42. Tel (052) 452
the Dukla Pass near Svidnk on typically narrow plots, with
26 19. # MaySep: daily;
street-facing gables. The finest OctApr: MonFri. & 8 -
Svidnk 5 is No. 13, originally a Gothic
structure remodelled in
Road map F3. 53 km (33 miles) NE Renaissance style, now part of
of Preov. * 13,000. @ the ari Museum. The early
16th-century town hall at the
In the autumn of 1944, the centre of the square has
Battle of Dukla Pass was Renaissance windows, an
fought against the Nazis near oriel and stone portals. The top
Svidnk. Many thousands of faade bears a statue of the
Red Army soldiers were killed Knight Roland. Another branch
here. The Battle of Dukla of the ari Museum is here.
Museum (Vojensk The fourth side of the
mzeum) is dedicated to square is occupied by the
this event. The modern Basilica of St Giles (sv.
building in the shape of an Egdius), a magnificent
anti-tank mine houses church with 11
thousands of exhibits medieval side altars.
associated with the battle. The town, on the Main altar in the Protestant Church
Some tanks and vehicles UNESCO World in Kemarok
used in the battle are on Cultural Heritage list,
display outside and en also has very well-
route to the Dukla Pass. preserved medieval Podolnec 8
The Museum of defensive walls.
Ukraine-Ruthenian Road map E3. 16 km (10 miles) N of
Culture (Mzeum E ari Muzeum Kemarok. * 3,000. @ n Nmestie
ukrajinsko-rusnskej Radnin nmestie 48.
Marinske 29. Tel (052) 439 12 05.
Tel (054) 472 49 66.
kultry) has artifacts of
# TueSun. & 8
the Greek-Catholic This small town in the Poprad
www.muzeumbardejov.sk
Ruthenian minority. Part river valley has a history
of the museum, on a going back to 1292. At the
separate site, is an open- centre of its main square,
air skansen of tradi- Kemarok 7 flanked by Renaissance houses,
tional Ruthenian Madonna in the is the late 13th-century Church
wooden buildings. Bardejov town hall Road map E3. 74 km (46 of the Ascension of the
miles) W of Preov. Virgin Mary (Nanebovzatia
E Battle of Dukla Museum * 17,000. @ n Hlavn Panny Marie), its presbytery
Bardejovska 25. Tel (054) 752 13 98. nmestie 46. Tel (052) 449 21 35. decorated with Gothic wall
# TueSun. & 8 www.vhu.sk www.kezmarok.net paintings. The beautiful
E Museum of Ruthenian Renaissance belfry in front of
Culture Kemaroks most imposing the church, with a lavishly
Masarykova 10. Tel (051) 773 15 historic sight is the vast, Neo- decorated attic, is from 1659.
26. # TueSun. & www.muk.sk Byzantine Lutheran Church The nearby mid-17th-century
E Skansen (Nov evanjelick kostol), Piarist Church and Monastery
Nad Svdnickym Amfitetrom. work of the Viennese architect have an interesting history.
Tel (054) 752 29 52. # MayOct: Theophil von Hansen. It For three centuries the
daily. & www.muzeum.sk contains the mausoleum of monastery was home to the
Count Imre Thkly, hero of Piarist college founded by the
Environs Hungarian anti-Habsburg bailiff of Spi. In 195051 the
At the Dukla Pass (20 km/12 insurrections (see p263). In Communists turned it briefly
miles north of Svidnk) is the contrast, the old Protestant into a concentration camp for
Czechoslovak Army Monument. Church (Dreven kostol) Slovak monks.
334 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Levoa: Town Hall

One of the towns most distinguished
buildings, the town hall (radnica) was
erected in 1550 in Gothic style, replacing an
earlier building that had been destroyed by
fire. In the early 17th century it was
remodelled along Renaissance lines. The
bell tower dates from 165661, which, in
the 18th century, was decorated with
The Renaissance Thurzo House in Baroque elements. The Neo-Classical
the old centre of Levoa pediments were added in the
19th century. The town hall
Levoa 9 is still used for civic functions,
Road map E3. 56 km (35 miles) W
and it also houses the main
of Preov. * 14,600. @ n branch of the Spi Museum on
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 58. Tel (053) the first floor, with exhibits on
451 37 63. www.levoca.sk regional history.
The former capital of the
affluent region of Spi, Levoa
lies between the High Tatras
and Slovensk Rudohorie
mountains. The well-preserved
historic centre is full of Gothic,
Renaissance, Baroque and
Neo-Classical buildings. Its
main square, Nmestie Majstra
Pavla, features the Gothic
Church of St James (sv. Jakub). . Arcades
This houses a set of 18 altar- The original town hall did not
pieces, a collection of medieval
and Renaissance sacred art. have any galleries. The two-tier
The 18.6-m- (61-ft-) high main arcades were added to the central
altarpiece is the worlds tallest part of the building in 1615.
Gothic altar. The over 2-m-
(6-ft-) high statues of the
Madonna, St James and St John
the Evangelist are all by Master CAGE OF DISGRACE
Pavol of Levoa, a sculptor of
the Late Gothic, who also
carved other altarpieces in the
church. Just south of the
church is the former Town Hall
(see right). The historical centre
and the works of Master Pavol
of Levoa are listed as UNESCO
World Heritage Sites, as is the
nearby Spi Castle (see p338).
Among nearly 60 historic
houses around the main
square are the striking Thurzo
House (Thurzov dom)
crowned with a Renaissance
attic, and the House of Master
Pavol of Levoa, now a
The wrought-iron contraption
museum of his life and work.
by the south wall of the town
At the edge of the historic
hall is the 16th-century Cage
district is the 14th-century Old
of Disgrace, in which women
Minorites Church (Star
who had committed minor
kltor minoritov) that has a
crimes were locked up and Towns Coat of Arms
dazzling Baroque interior.
put on public display. It used This consists of a red
E House of Master Pavol to stand in the park belonging
to the Probstner family, who shield with a double
Nmestie Majstra Pavla 20. Tel (053)
gave it to the town in 1933. cross supported by
451 34 96. # daily (by appt Mon). &
two lions.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
 E A S T S L O VA K I A 335

Main Hall VISITORS CHECKLIST

The main halls
vaulted ceiling Nmestie Majstra Pavla.
Tel (053) 451 24 49. Fax (053)
bears witness to
451 28 24. # 9am5pm daily.
the Gothic origin Spi Museum exhibition in
of the town hall. town hall # 9am5pm daily.
& www.snm.sk

. Council Chamber
In 1998 presidents of 11 European countries met for
a summit here: Slovakia, Poland, Germany,
Czech Republic, Hungary, Austria, Romania,
Bulgaria, Slovenia, Italy and Ukraine.

. Wall Paintings
The authentic Renaissance
paintings on the south
The Neo-Classical elevation of the building
pediments date from depict the civic virtues of
the 19th century. restraint, courage,
justice and patience.

STAR SIGHTS
. Arcades
Coat of Arms
. Council Chamber
The towns coat of arms can be found above the
central arch of the ground-floor arcades, on the west . Wall Paintings
side of the building.
336 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

A Tour of the Slovensk kras 0

Limestone caves characterize the Slovak Karst, which

runs in a wide arc along the Slovak-Hungarian
border. Most of the countrys karst phenomena occur
here, including the vast majority of its 4,450 caves.
Four of them Domica, Gombaseck, Ochtinsk
aragonitov and Jasovsk are partly open to the
public. A fifth cave, Dobin ice cave, is in the
Slovensk raj (Slovak Paradise), another karst area
about 40 km (25 miles) to the northwest (warm horn 4
clothes are recommended for this cave). In 1995 all Under the village of horn, 14
five were listed as UNESCO Sites. km (9 miles) from Roava, is a
reservoir, which was built in 1768
to prevent flooding. It supplied
water to mines and iron mills.

0OPRAD

Krsna Hrka 3
One of Slovakias finest castles, this


is full of gorgeous furnishings.
Nearby is the Art Nouveau
3LA
N

mausoleum of the Andrssy 

family, who once owned
the castle.
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Jaskya Domica 1
KEY Reputed to be the most
beautiful cave in Slovakia,
Tour route
Jaskya Domica is also the
Other roads 0 kilometres 18 longest. There is a boat ride
along 140 m (460 ft) of the
Viewpoint
0 miles 9 underground river.

For additional map symbols see back flap

 E A S T S L O VA K I A 337

TIPS FOR DRIVERS

Length: About 75 km (45 miles).
Stopping off points: Roava is
a good base; other towns also
have places for refreshments.
n Roava, nmestie Bankov
32. Tel (058) 732 81 01; 788 44
20. www.slovenskyraj.sk
www.ssj.sk (cave information)

Zdielska Valley 5 Jasov 6

The valley is an impressive 3-km (2-mile) long Jasov features
canyon cut in white limestone rocks, with Slovakias biggest
walls rising to 300 m (985 ft). Flowing along monastery complex.
its floor is the small stream, Zdielski Potok. Its interior contains
fine examples of
Baroque art.




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Medzev 8 Jasovska Jaskya 7

A landmark in this small town, It is claimed that this cave was discovered by monks from
which was founded in the 13th the nearby monastery in Jasov. Its underground corridors
century by German settlers, is the feature numerous old writings and drawings, the oldest
tower of the Church of Mary the dating from 1452. Within the cave archaeologists have
Queen of Angels. discovered traces of prehistoric habitation.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
338 S L O VA K I A R E G I O N B Y R E G I O N

Spi Castle q

These forbidding castle ruins (Spisk hrad) are

part of a historic complex, along with the small
town of Spisk Podhradie (podhradie means
below the castle), which lies between the
castle and Spisk Kapitula (see opposite), a
settlement on a ridge 6 km (4 miles) to the north-
west. Spi Castle was the administrative capital
of the Spi region, a historic province populated
by Saxon settlers. The oldest parts of the castle
date from the 11th12th centuries. After its 15th-
century enlargement it contained five courtyards. Walls
In 1780 it burned down. It is gradually being The defensive walls were rebuilt,
restored. Most impressive from a distance, it is reinforced and equipped with new
nonetheless worth a visit for its spectacular views. gun positions by the Zpolya family,
who owned the castle in the 15th
and 16th centuries.
Round tower,
dating from the first half
of the 12th century, was
used as a residence and
an observation point.

Vast Fortress
Occupying an area of 4 ha (10 acres),
Spi Castle is the remains of the
largest fortress complex in Central
Europe. In the 17th century it
had 2,000 inhabitants.

Gate STAR FEATURES

The entrance gate leads to a . Castle Chapel and
vast lower courtyard, nearly Museum
300 m (985 ft) long and
115 m (380 ft) wide. . Upper Castle

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp3645 and pp3945
 E A S T S L O VA K I A 339

VISITORS CHECKLIST Spisk Kapitula w

Road map E3. * 3,500
Road map E3. 35 km (22 miles) W
(Spisk Podhradie). @
of Preov. @
Spisk Podhradie, 3 km (2 miles)
NW. Tel (053) 454 13 36. Castle
& Museum # daily, MaySep:
A small walled town on a
8:30am7pm; Oct: 9am6pm;
ridge west of Spisk
Nov: on request. & 8
Podhradie, Spisk Kapitula
www.spisskemuzeum.com
has been, since 1776, the seat
of the Spi bishopric, the
ecclesiastical capital of the
Spi region. Its dominant sight
. Upper Castle is the Late-Romanesque,
Situated at the highest point, twin-towered St Martins
the now-ruined upper castle, Cathedral, dating from 1245
with its tower and Roman- 75 (see also p251). It has two
esque palace, was built in the Romanesque portals, an
13th century. unusual statue of a white lion
by the entrance, and unique
medieval frescoes in the
central nave. The interesting
burial chapel of the Zpolya
family, by the south wall, dates
from the 15th century. Also on
the towns one street is the
imposing Baroque Bishops
Palace with a clock tower, and
Tournaments a row of Gothic canons
During the summer houses. Since 1993, Spisk
season, colourful Kapitula has been on the
historic pageants and UNESCO World Cultural
knights tournaments Heritage listing, with Spisk
are held in the castle Podhradie and Spi Castle.
courtyards.
R St Martins Cathedral
# NovApr: 9am2:30pm MonFri;
MayOct: 9am4:30pm daily. & 8

Environs
ehra, a village 6 km (4 miles)
southeast of Spiska Kapitula,
features a 13th-century Roman-
esque Church of the Holy Spirit
(sv. Duch), a white building
with a tower and a bell, topped
with onion-shaped wooden
cupolas. Inside the church are
magnificent 13th15th-century
frescoes covering the presby-
tery and one wall of the nave,
and a 13th-century stone font.

. Museum
Housed in the renovated
armoury and torture chamber,
the museum documents
the history of the castle in
the Middle Ages.

. Castle Chapel
Six wooden statues of saints adorn the
interior of the 15th-century Gothic
chapel of the Zpolya family. In
2003 the chapel underwent a Church of the Holy Spirit in ehra
complete renovation. from the south side
TRAVELLERS
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 342365

WHERE TO EAT 366395
SHOPPING 396399
ENTERTAINMENT 400403
SPORT AND LEISURE 404409
342 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY
T he Czech and Slovak Republics
have a well-developed network
of pleasant hotels, pensions
and guesthouses, as well as rooms
to let in private homes. Finding a
accommodation, although there are
a few budget hotels in the centre,
and some small pensions on the
outskirts. The chart of places to
stay on the following pages lists
bed for the night, even in a small the most attractive establishments
town or a village, should never be a in all price categories, including
problem, although some places may options such as youth hostels and
be closed in the low season (usually mountain shelters. The listings for
October to April). In large the Czech Republic are on
cities, particularly Prague, it Doorman at Pragues p a g e s 3 4 4 5 7 ; t h o s e f o r
may be hard to find inexpensive Palace Hotel Slovakia are on 35865.

CHOOSING A HOTEL hotels belonging to inter-

national chains, such as Ibis,
Both countries have relatively Hilton, Marriott, Radisson SAS,
large numbers of hotels of Mercure, Inter-Continental
various standards. Large and Holiday Inn. In Slovakia
towns, popular resorts and international hotel chains
tourist regions offer a variety include Hilton, Sheraton,
of accommodation ranging Kempinski, Crowne Plaza,
from modern establishments Holiday Inn, Best Western
belonging to large interna- and Radisson SAS.
tional chains and smart hotels
set in historic buildings to HOSTELS AND LODGES
humble hostels.
The cheapest overnight
HOW TO BOOK accommodation in both the
Czech and Slovak Republics
As in many other countries is provided by hostels. In
you can book a room by the Czech Republic these
telephone, fax or the Internet. are known as ubytovna, and
In both the Czech and Slovak in Slovakia as ubytova. In Grand Hotel Zvon in esk
Republics the local tourist the Czech Republic these Budjovice (see p350)
offices can help with booking are usually former (or cur-
accommodation. rent) workers hostels, with located on the outskirts of
shared bathroom facilities. towns; they often offer
CHAIN HOTELS Better standard rooms (with rooms with a bathroom.
en-suite bathroom or even Youth hostels (IYHF) are
Hotels belonging to a chain TV) are found in students also available in the Czech
are usually situated in large halls of residence (kolej), Republic. Czech hostels are
towns and aim to attract but they are open to visitors of a decent standard and
business people. The Czech only from June to August. provide overnight accommo-
Republic has many luxury Slovak hostels are usually dation in multiple-occupancy
rooms. Their network covers
mainly the big towns and
most popular tourist centres.
There are some mountain
hostels, known as chata or
bouda, in the Krkonoe and
Jesenky ranges.
In Slovakia youth hostels are
only found around Bratislava,
but there are clusters of
mountain hostels in the Tatras,
Low Tatras, Mal and Velk
Fatra, Pieniny and Slovensk
raj (Slovak Paradise). Slovak
mountain hostels (chaty)
usually provide basic facilities,
with a shared bathroom, a
Grand Hotel Pupp in Karlovy Vary (see p352) modest buffet, and no access
Marinsk Lzn railway station hall
 W H E R E T O S T AY 343

TRAVELLING WITH
CHILDREN

In the Czech and Slovak

Republics finding a place to
stay with children does not
present any major problems,
and families are made
welcome. In Slovakia many
pensions, agritourism farms
and private homes encourage
families with children and try
to provide entertainment and
play areas for their youngest
The pleasant Arkada Hotel in Levoa, East Slovakia (see p364) guests. Some hotels,
particularly in the Czech
to cooking facilities. In both CAMP SITES Republic, will supply a cot
countries there are hotel- and there may be a baby-
standard mountain hostels, There are over 200 camp sitting service.
but they tend to be pricey. sites in the Czech Republic.
In Slovakia, in the summer DISABLED TRAVELLERS
PENSIONS season there are about 100
(some also offering chalet Many Slovak hotels and
There are large numbers of and bungalow accommoda- better-class pensions can
pensions, or guesthouses, in tion). Most have bathrooms, accommodate disabled guests;
both countries, but particu- washrooms and kitchens almost all new facilities are
larly in the Czech Republic. available to all visitors; some built with their requirements
Look out for their signs along also have a shop and a bar. in mind. In the Czech
the road: pension (in the They tend to be crowded in Republic the needs of
Czech Republic) and penzin the high season. wheelchair users have been
(in Slovakia). taken into account generally
In the Czech Republic these AGRITOURISM only by the top-class hotels,
are usually cosy, inexpensive although this is slowly
places offering rooms of a Slovakia is experiencing a changing as new facilities are
reasonable standard (with en growth in agritourism, which opened and are obliged to
suite bathroom), mostly with is where visitors have the offer wheelchair access.
breakfast included. In Slovakia chance to stay on a farm.
the term penzin covers In the Czech Republic
provincial guesthouses, little many farms offer accommo- DIRECTORY
different from private homes, dation in historic farmsteads, AGRITOURISM
but is also sometimes used by mills or cottages, where
hotels with restaurants in organic food is served. Guests Przdniny na venkov
large or historic town centres. can go hiking, cycling or (Holidays in the
horse riding. countryside)
PRIVATE HOMES Tel 777 170 654.
HIDDEN EXTRAS www.prazdninynavenkove.cz
Rooms in private homes for
visitors to stay in are widely Make allowances for extra HOSTELS
available in the Czech expenses, such as tips for
Republic. In Slovakia their bringing in luggage to your Czech Youth Hostels
numbers are growing fast. room, or other services. While Association
Some local tourist offices can staying in a hotel it is worth Pistavni 2, 170 00 Praha.
help with advance bookings. checking whether parking Tel 220 805 684. Fax 220 806 912.
and breakfast are www.czechhostels.com
included (particularly
in Slovakia). Also RESERVATIONS
check the cost of www.hotel-line.cz
extras such as the (hotels in Czech Republic)
minibar and telephone www.camp.cz
calls (particularly in (camping in Czech Republic)
the Czech Republic), www.limba.sk
as both can be much (Slovak travel agent)
more expensive than www.slovakiatravel.com
elsewhere. Resorts in www.slovakhotels.com
Slovakia tend to charge www.bookings.sk
visitors a climate tax, www.heartofeurope.co.uk
a small environmental www.slovakiaholidayrentals.com
A room in the Carlton, Bratislava (see p359) tourist tax.
344 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Hotels in the Czech Republic PRICE CATEGORIES

Prices of accommodation in hotels
and pensions are for a double room
These hotels have been chosen across a wide price with bathroom and breakfast,
and include tax.
range on the basis of their attractive location, high stand- | under 3,000K
ards and range of facilities. Hotels are listed by region, || 3,0004,500K
starting with Prague and its environs, followed by the rest ||| 4,5006,000K
|||| 6,0008,000K
of the Czech Republic. Under each town or city, hotels are ||||| over 8,000K
listed in alphabetical order within each price category.

PRAGUE HRADANY AND MAL STRANA

Domus Henrici /h0z |

Loretnsk 11, Praha 1. Tel 220 511 369. Fax 220 511 502. Rooms 8 Map 1 C3.
This boutique hotel could hardly be nearer to the castle, the Loreto and Strahov Monastery. The rooms are huge and
tastefully furnished. In summer the delicious breakfasts are served on the terrace with views over the Mal Strana
(little quarter). www.hidden-places.com

Hotel ertovka /h0:7 |

Hybernsk 12, Prague. Tel 257 011 500. Fax 257 534 392. Rooms 21 Map 2 F3.
Situated in the heart of historic Mal Strana, this renovated Baroque hotel offers spectacular views over Pragues
little Venice. Both single and double rooms are available. Ask for a top-floor room for views of the castle. Parking
is some distance from the hotel. www.certovka.cz

Pension Dientzenhofer /h0:e7 |

Nosticova 2, Praha 1. Tel 257 311 319. Fax 257 320 888. Rooms 9 Map 2 E4.
A pretty and well-kept pension, this was the birthplace of Baroque architect Kilian Ignaz Dietzenhofer. It is in a quiet
street only three minutes walk from Charles Bridge. Rooms are comfortable and all have en suite bathrooms, satel-
lite TV and minibar. There is a small terrace for guests. Excellent wheelchair access. www.dientzenhofer.cz

U Brny /h0ez7 |

Nerudova 21, Praha 1. Tel 257 212 029. Fax 257 212 758. Rooms 10 Map 2 D3.
This is one of the best addresses in Prague. A popular place, U Brny is always full during high season, so book well
in advance. The rooms, basically two-, three- and four-room suites, are elegantly furnished, and the bathrooms are
just fantastic. www.hotel-ubrany.cz

Waldstein /h07 |

Valdtejnsk nmsti 6, Praha 1. Tel 257 533 938. Fax 257 531 143. Rooms 34 Map 2 E3.
Rooms of this elegant historic hotel in the centre of Mal Strana are furnished with antique pieces, but also provide
Internet access, satellite TV and a kitchenette. Some have mosaics on the ceilings. Breakfasts, served in the original
vaulted cellar, are delicious. www.hotelwaldstein.cz

Biskupsk Dm (Bishops House) /h0:7 ||

Draickho nmsti 6, Praha 1. Tel 257 532 320. Fax 257 531 840. Rooms 45 Map 2 F3.
Fully restored in 1990, the hotel occupies two buildings: one is the former residence of Pragues bishop, and the
other that of an 18th-century butcher. All rooms are comfortable and tastefully furnished. Those on the upper floor
feature exceptionally high ceilings with wooden beams, and delightful nooks. www.starshotelsprague.com

Dm U ervenho Iva (Red Lion) /h0 ||

Nerudova 41, Praha 1. Tel 257 533 832. Fax 257 535 131. Rooms 6 Map 2 E3.
With its lovely views over the Royal Route, the castle and peaceful Petin hill, this former burghers house is superbly
located. Its rich interiors include painted Renaissance ceilings, the original period furniture and parquet floors. It also
has a traditional restaurant and wine room. www.hotelredlion.com

Hoffmeister /h0ez ||

Pod Bruskou 7, Praha 1. Tel 251 017 111. Fax 251 017 120. Rooms 37 Map 2 F2.
A high-class hotel, close to Prague Castle, the Hoffmeister has a spa and fitness club. Its large rooms are
flamboyantly furnished and include colourful fabrics; they offer magnificent views over the Vltava. Located halfway
up the hill leading to Chodkov. www.hoffmeister.cz

Sax /0z ||

Jnsk vrek 3, Praha 1. Tel 257 531 268. Fax 257 534 101. Rooms 22 Map 2 D3.
Situated close to Prague Castle, this Neo-Classical hotel is ideal for those who wish to be the first to arrive in the
morning in Hradany. The rooms are decorated in outrageous but very cool designs from the 1950s to 1970s, with
windows facing the spectacular glass-roofed inner atrium. www.sax.cz

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 345

Savoy /h0ez, |||

Keplerova 6, Praha 1. Tel 224 302 430. Fax 224 302 128. Rooms 61 Map 1 B3.
A deluxe, modern hotel occupying a splendid, elegant building with an Art Nouveau faade. It prides itself on its
service, and its amenities include a library and a fitness centre. The large, luxurious suites and rooms have perhaps
the biggest bathrooms in Prague. Sometimes attracts celebrity guests. www.savoyhotel.cz

Aria /h0ez ||||

Trit 9, Praha 1. Tel 225 334 111. Fax 225 334 666. Rooms 52 Map 2 E3.
In this charming, unusual hotel, the rooms are not very large and each of them is furnished in a style inspired by a
different musical legend, such as Dizzy Gillespie, Puccini or Mozart. The hotel offers live music in its Winter Garden
as well as a music library and a music salon with a real fire. www.ariahotel.net

Best Western Kampa /h0;z ||||

Vehrdova 16, Praha 1. Tel 271 090 847. Fax 257 404 333. Rooms 84 Map 2 E5.
Housed in a 17th-century armoury, minutes away from the Charles Bridge, the hotel is tucked away in a quiet side
street surrounded by beautiful gardens. The reception area leads into a bar and restaurant combined under lovely
Baroque vaulted ceilings. Rooms are simply furnished, but clean. www.euroagentur.cz

Constans /h0ez7 ||||

Betislavova 309, Praha 1. Tel 234 091 818. Fax 234 091 860. Rooms 31 Map 2 D3.
Located in a quiet medieval street, below the castle. Newly refurbished, it combines old and modern styles in its airy
interiors. The large rooms have huge beds and wooden floors. The charming hotel restaurant is a splendid place for
dining with friends. www.hotelconstans.cz

U Zlat Studn /0z ||||

U Zlat Studn 166, Praha 1. Tel 257 011 213. Fax 257 533 320. Rooms 19 Map 2 E2.
A luxury hotel on four floors housed in a venerable old building. The view of the town, from the restaurant and the
terrace, is simply stunning. The rooms are nicely furnished and bathrooms are very comfortable, which is a rarity in
this part of town. www.goldenwell.cz

PRAGUE STAR MSTO AND JOSEFOV

Best Western Meteor Plaza /h0ez |

Hybernsk 6, 110 00 Praha 1. Tel 224 192 559. Fax 224 220 681. Rooms 88 Map 4 D3.
This international chain hotel has a congenial, cosy old-world atmosphere. Despite having been modernized it still
maintains its original character. Rooms are rather small. A pleasant restaurant is situated in the atmospheric wine
cellar. www.hotel-meteor.cz

Betlem Club /h: |

Betlmsk nmsti 9, Praha 1. Tel 222 221 574. Fax 222 220 580. Rooms 21 Map 3 B4.
Close to the Old Town Square, the hotel is housed in a beautiful medieval, pastel-green building standing in a quiet
square. Rooms are small and plainly furnished, but all have bathrooms. Many times rebuilt, the house has a
fascinating history and retains its original cellar. www.betlemclub.cz

Cloister Inn /h0ez |

Konviktsk 14, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 020. Fax 224 210 800. Rooms 75 Map 3 B5.
This modern hotel, five minutes from the Charles Bridge, offers large, comfortably furnished rooms with pleasant
bathrooms. Tasty breakfasts are served in a spacious dining room. Tea and coffee are freely available all day, and
there is free Internet access for guests in the lobby. www.cloister-inn.com

Hotel Clement /h0ez7 |

Klimentzka 30, Praha 1. Tel 222 314 350. Fax 222 312 708. Rooms 76 Map 3 B2.
This lovely hotel stands in a peaceful street, close to the river. Tastefully furnished rooms, large and small, all have
fair-sized bathrooms. Designed in a functional style that complements the buildings historical ambience, the Lobby
Bar offers a wide range of drinks including traditional Czech beers and wines. www.hotelclement.cz

U Klenotnka /0z |

Rytisk 3, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 699. Fax 224 221 025. Rooms 11 Map 3 B4.
A small but beautiful hotel and restaurant, halfway between Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. The rooms are
of a reasonable size and competitively priced. It also has a small bucket-lift for luggage. The hotel restaurant serves
excellent breakfasts. www.uklenotnika.cz

U Zlatho Stromu /h0 |

Karlova 6, Praha 1. Tel/Fax 222 220 441. Rooms 22 Map 3 B4.

The hotel is in a historic building. Rooms are small but have plenty of character. All the furnishings are tasteful and in
keeping, including the wooden, beamed ceilings. Some windows face the courtyard, which is an oasis of peace;
others overlook a very busy street. www.zlatystrom.cz
346 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Metamorphis /h0:ez ||

Mal tupartsk 5, Praha 1. Tel 221 771 011. Fax 221 771 099. Rooms 32 Map 3 C3.
Located at the centre of the Star Msto, in the Tn courtyard, Metamorphis is in a venerable old house. It offers
large rooms with pleasant bathrooms; some have antique furniture. The hotel restaurant makes its own delicious
pizzas. www.hotelmetamorphis.cz

Liberty /h0ez, |||

28 ijna 11, Praha 1. Tel 224 239 598. Fax 224 237 694. Rooms 32 Map 3 C4.
Understated elegance and modern comfort are the hallmarks of this pleasant hotel, situated in the centre of Prague.
There are spacious rooms and bathrooms, beautiful reception areas and exquisite service. The hotel wellness centre
offers fitness facilities, massage and sauna open 24 hours per day. www.hotelliberty.cz

Ventana /0ez |||

Celetn 7, Praha 1. Tel 221 776 600. Fax 221 776 603. Rooms 30 Map 3 C3.
A classic Prague hotel, situated right at the centre of the Star Msto. Imaginatively furnished rooms, some split-level,
all have four-poster beds. The reception area is boldly Art Deco in style. Extensive breakfasts are served in the library
with a view over the Church of Our Lady before Tn. www.ventana-hotel.net

Grand Hotel Praha /0ez ||||

Staromstsk nmsti 25, Praha 1. Tel 606 600 583. Fax 221 632 558. Rooms 31 Map 3 C3.
Due to its excellent location with a lovely view over the Old Town Square, the hotel fills up quickly, so book well in
advance. Large rooms and suites have simple classic furnishings, but meet modern requirements. Breakfasts are
served in the historic restaurant, U Orloje. www.grandhotelpraha.cz

U Prince /h0ezf ||||

Staromstsk nmsti 29, Praha 1. Tel 224 113 807. Fax 224 213 807. Rooms 24 Map 3 C3.
The hotel is popular with visitors thanks to the lovely view of the Star Msto from every room. The building
itself is old, but the interior furnishings are super-modern. It boasts a magnificent terrace reached by a glass
lift, and offers live jazz every evening. www.hoteluprince.com

Grand Hotel Bohemia /h0ez7 |||||

Krlodvorsk 4, Praha 1. Tel 234 608 111. Fax 222 329 545. Rooms 78 Map 4 D3.
True to its name, this Art Nouveau hotel is opulent and dignified. Rooms are vast, the service is friendly, and the
hotel caf is a favourite meeting place for locals. The buffet breakfasts are very popular among regular visitors to
Prague. www.austria-hotels.at

PRAGUE NOV MSTO

Na Zlatm Ki (Golden Cross) /0z |

Jungmannovo nmst 2, Praha 1. Tel 224 219 501. Fax 222 245 418. Rooms 8 Map 3 C5.
Probably the narrowest hotel in Prague, winner of many awards, this hotel offers large and luxurious double rooms
and suites, all with bathrooms. Tasty breakfasts are served in the Gothic cellar. Can arrange transport to and from
the airport. www.goldencross.cz

Opera /h0ez |

Tnov 13, Praha 1. Tel 222 315 609. Fax 222 311 477. Rooms 67 Map 4 F2.
The hotel occupies an imposing late 19th-century Neo-Renaissance building close to the State Opera. Rooms with
classic furniture and vast windows overlook the nearby park. The hotel bar has a good range of beers and is well
worth visiting. www.hotel-opera.cz

Pension Bezina h0z |

Legerova 39, 41, Praha 2. Tel 224 266 779. Fax 224 266 777. Rooms 50 Map 6 D2.
This somewhat run-down building houses a wonderful bed and breakfast establishment. Rooms are simple and
modern, many facing a small garden at the back, and some with exposed wooden beams. Guests can choose from
double or twin bedrooms, ideal for family accommodation. Breakfast is served in a small dining room. www.brezina.cz

Pension Museum z7 |

Mezibransk 15, Praha 1. Tel 296 325 186. Fax 296 325 188. Rooms 12 Map 6 D1.
The pension offers large rooms, most of them with a separate sleeping area and a small lounge. Excellent service,
tasty breakfasts and a phenomenal location close to Wenceslas Square combine to make this the best bed and
breakfast place in central Prague. Ideal for families. www.pension-museum.cz

Elysee /hez ||

Vclavsk nmst 43, Praha 1. Tel 221 455 111. Fax 224 225 773. Rooms 81 Map 4 D5.
If you are looking for a good but not luxurious hotel close to Wenceslas Square, this one will certainly provide the
answer to your needs. The rooms are of a fair size and tastefully furnished, and the location is perfect. Effective
sound-proofing eliminates street noises. Some apartments are available. www.hhotels.cz

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 347

Seven Days /h0:ez ||

itn 46, Praha 2. Tel 222 923 111. Fax 222 923 222. Rooms 50 Map 6 D1/2.
A marvellous Neo-Classical building at the centre of the Nov Msto. The rooms are large, with excellent furnishings,
and the communal areas are surprisingly opulent. A sauna and whirlpool are available for a small charge, and all
rooms have Internet and TV. www.hotelsevendays.cz

Tchaikovsky /h0z7 ||

Ke Karlovu 19, Praha 1. Tel 224 912 121. Fax 224 912 123. Rooms 19 Map 5 C2.
The hotel stands in a quiet street, five minutes walk from Wenceslas Square. It offers charming traditional decor,
understated elegance and refinement. Rooms are fairly large and beautifully furnished. A buffet breakfast is included
in the price. www.hoteltchaikovsky.com

U Medvdk 0z ||

Na Pertne 7, Praha 1. Tel 224 211 916. Fax 224 220 930. Rooms 33 Map 3 B5.
Traditional Czech restaurant, pub and pension whose name translates as The Little Bears. The most expensive
rooms are larger and have wooden-beamed ceilings and a medieval flavour. It has a beerhall, which offers numerous
Czech beers, and a beer museum in the cellar. www.umedvidku.cz

Marriott /h0eSz7 |||

V Celnici 8, Praha 1. Tel 222 888 888. Fax 222 888 889. Rooms 293 Map 4 E3.
One of the most splendid of all Marriott hotels, this offers an excellent location right by the Old Town gate. All
possible luxuries are available in each room. There is also a large health and fitness centre, with swimming pool. The
hotel restaurant is one of the best in town. www.marriott.com

Carlo IV /h0eSz7 ||||

Senovn nmsti 13, Praha 1. Tel 224 593 111. Fax 224 223 960. Rooms 152 Map 4 E4.
This beautifully decorated hotel, with marble floors and wall paintings, occupies a Neo-Classical building at the heart
of the city. It belongs to the Boscolo Group, and is magnificently luxurious, with the Box Block restaurant, a Cigar
Bar, a spa and a wonderful swimming pool with mosaic floor. www.boscolohotels.com

Kempinski /h0ez7 ||||

Hybernsk 12, Prague. Tel 226 226 111. Fax 224 221 579. Rooms 75 Map 4 E3.
Formerly the Baroque palace, U Vnku, the Kempinski offers an appealing blend of the historical and the
contemporary. Guests can relax in the generously sized rooms, suites and studios or pay a visit to the luxurious spa
and wellness centre. www.kempinski.com

Radisson Blu Alcron /h0:eSz ||||

tpnsk 40, Praha 1. Tel 222 820 000. Fax 222 820 100. Rooms 211 Map 6 D1.
This large, luxurious hotel is in a superbly restored 1930s building near Wenceslas Square. The views from the upper
floors of this hotel would provide a big enough attraction but there are others, including huge bathrooms and plush
carpets. It is expensive, but worth the price. www.radissonblu.com

PRAGUE ENVIRONS

Abri /h07 |

Jana Masaryka 36, Praha 2. Tel 222 515 124. Fax 224 254 240. Rooms 25
This comfortable hotel stands in the quiet residential district of Vinohrady. Small rooms with bathrooms are all well
equipped and furnished. The terrace in the small garden provides a pleasant place for a relaxing evening following a
day of sightseeing. The amenities include a secure car park and a restaurant. www.abri.cz

Aida /h07 |

Kubiova 23, Praha 8. Tel 284 680 628. Fax 284 684 570. Rooms 47
A modern, medium-size hotel offering plain rooms but with full facilities, including satellite TV, at reasonable prices.
It is located in a quiet district 4 km (2 miles) north of the city centre. Tram and metro run regularly nearby. The price
includes breakfast. www.hotelaida.cz

Amedia Theatrino /h0ez |

Boivojova 53, Praha 3. Tel 221 422 111. Fax 221 422 222. Rooms 73
In the residential district of ikov, the hotel occupies a building that was once a theatre. It offers good-quality
service, at affordable prices. Apart from the huge, well-furnished rooms it also has an excellent, quaintly furnished
restaurant located in the former auditorium, surrounded by balconies and boxes. www.arcotel.at

Ametyst /h0ez7 |

Jana Masaryka 11, Praha 2. Tel 222 921 921. Fax 222 921 999. Rooms 84 Map 6 F3.
Good, modern hotel with air-conditioned rooms, en suite bathrooms or showers and Internet access. The attic rooms
with exposed beams are the most attractive. The hotel offers sauna facilities and massage and also has a small,
pleasantly furnished restaurant. www.hotelametyst.cz
348 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Andels /h0:ez |

Stroupenickho 21, Praha 5. Tel 296 889 688. Fax 296 889 999. Rooms 239
The hotel, representing the latest combination of elegance with functionality, was designed by an award-winning
British team. The rooms are spacious, stylish and contemporary; the bathrooms have separate baths and showers,
and the hotel restaurant is one of the best in Prague. www.andelshotel.com

Ariston /0,7 |

Seifertova 65, Praha 3. Tel 222 782 517. Fax 222 780 347. Rooms 62
This good-quality three-star hotel is situated in a district close to the city centre. The rooms are a fair size, plain but
clean, with high ceilings and solid wooden furniture. All have en suite bathrooms. There are also rooms for non-
smokers, and some are adapted for disabled guests. www.europehotels.cz

Barcel /h0ez |

Na Stri 32, Praha 4. Tel 296 772 111. Fax 241 442 023. Rooms 213
A fine hotel, located a fair distance from the city centre, it belongs to a Spanish chain. Barcel offers high-quality
service, aiming mainly at large, organized groups of holidaymakers and business people. The rooms are spacious;
those on upper floors have fine views over the city. www.barcelopraha.com

Carlton /h0ez7 |

Tboritsk 18, Praha 3. Tel 222 711 177. Fax 222 711 199. Rooms 49
An exquisite, high-class hotel in ikov. Large rooms at affordable prices. The most popular ones are those on the top
floor, with sloping ceilings and exposed wooden beams. One room is specially adapted for people with disabilities.
Breakfast is served in a small basement restaurant. www.hhotel.cz

Duo /h0eS |

Teplick 492, Praha 9. Tel 266 131 111. Fax 283 880 141. Rooms 553
A huge hotel situated in the northern part of the city with large rooms and excellent service. Some rooms have
Internet access. It has the best sports centre in Prague, with swimming pool, fitness club, whirlpool, sauna and
bowling alley. The beer garden is open in warm weather. www.hotelduo.cz

Green Garden /h0e |

Fgnerovo nmsti 4, Praha 2. Tel 224 261 181. Fax 224 262 182. Rooms 60 Map 6 D3.
A comfortable, if not luxurious hotel, situated close to the main Prague-Brno motorway. The large, spacious, bright
terrace under a huge glass roof, where you can pass a lazy afternoon over a cup of coffee overlooking the small
green garden, is probably the greatest attraction of this place. www.hotelgreengarden.cz

Hotel Amadeus /h |

Dalimilova 10, Praha 3. Tel 224 238 150. Fax 224 238 647. Rooms 50
Hotel Amadeus is pleasantly located only 10 minutes from Wenceslas Square. All rooms and apartments have a
shower and WC, small TV and telephone. Free Wi-Fi is available in the reception area and some rooms. The hotel has
its own underground parking garage. A buffet breakfast is included in the price. www.amadeushotel.cz

Hotel Praha /h0:eSz7 |

Suick 20, Praha 6. Tel 224 341 111. Fax 224 311 218. Rooms 124
When it first opened in 1981 this hotel was regarded by architects as the most modern in the republic, with unique
interior furnishings. Originally used by state dignitaries, it is now open to everyone, but it still remains attractive to
VIPs. www.htlpraha.cz

Kavalr /h0ez |

Plzesk 177, Praha 5. Tel 257 216 565. Fax 257 210 085. Rooms 50
The cheapest hotel of the H&Hotels group, the Kavalr is attractive, and lies south of Mal Strana. The rooms are
exceptionally large, some with double beds. The hotel is well-kept, bright and clean; its friendly staff speak several
languages. www.europehotels.cz

Art Hotel Praha /h0:ez ||

Nad Krlovskou oborou 53, Praha 7. Tel 233 101 331. Fax 233 101 311. Rooms 24
The hotel has a permanent exhibition of modern Czech art. Quiet and peaceful, it provides a good base for
sightseeing in town. Each room has unique decor; all are furnished with taste and panache. The interesting lighting
is subtle and romantic. Delicious breakfasts are included in the room price. www.arthotel.cz

Julin /h0ez7 ||

Eliky Pekov 11, Praha 5. Tel 257 311 150. Fax 257 311 149. Rooms 33
A good-quality hotel with small rooms but excellent service. The amenities include a sauna, solarium and a small
fitness club. Children are welcome. There are also rooms available for wheelchair users, and one room has a specially
adapted bathroom. Located near the river. www.julian.cz

Mamaison Hotel Riverside /h0ez7 ||

Jankovo nbei 15, Praha 5. Tel 234 705 155. Fax 234 705 158. Rooms 81
The Riverside is a splendid hotel, offering unparalleled attention to comfort. Furnished with subtle elegance, it is
virtually perfect from the beautiful bathrooms to the original Czech art hung on the walls. As the name indicates,
the hotel lies close to the river. www.mamaison.com

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 349

Mvenpick /h0eSz ||

Mozartova 1, Praha 5. Tel 257 151 111. Fax 257 153 131. Rooms 442
Despite its location far from the city centre, this is an excellent hotel. It occupies two buildings, linked by a cable car.
All rooms, some of them split-level, are large, comfortable and meet the highest standards. The hotel has two
restaurants, and its lobby bar is famous for its delicious ice creams. www.movenpick-prague.com

Mucha /h0ez ||

Sokolovsk 26, Praha 8. Tel 222 318 849. Fax 224 816 641. Rooms 39 Map 4 F2.
Despite being slightly overpriced, this is a very good hotel. It is named after the Czech artist Alfons Mucha.
Reproductions of his works decorate the entire interior, which is a real Art Deco jewel. There is a restaurant, bar and
sauna. www.hotelmucha.cz

Plaza Alta /h0ez7 ||

Ortenovo nmsti 22, Praha 7. Tel 220 407 082. Fax 222 407 091. Rooms 87
The Alta offers large, comfortable rooms just outside Prague. Ndrai Holeovice train station is conveniently close by
and the metro takes you to the centre in a few minutes. A tasty breakfast is included in the price of a room.
www.plazahotelalta.com

U Blaenky /h0:z ||

U Blaenky 1, Praha 5. Tel 251 564 532. Fax 251 563 529. Rooms 13
Upon entering this grand villa in Pragues best residential district, you will feel your spirits soar. Everything in here is
of good quality; the rooms are modern, spacious and tastefully furnished. The restaurant serves delicious local cuisine
and offers a vast selection of wines. www.ublazenky.cz

U T Korunek (Three Crowns Hotel) /h0ez ||

Cimburkova 28, Praha 3. Tel 222 781 112. Fax 222 780 189. Rooms 78
The name of this hotel translates as The Three Crowns; the current price of the accommodation certainly exceeds
this amount, but it is still not exorbitant. Rooms are modest, but well equipped. The hotel is situated in the district of
ikov, about a 20-minute walk from Wenceslas Square. www.3korunky.cz

CENTRAL BOHEMIA

BENEOV Atlas /h07 |

Tyrova 2063, 256 01. Tel 317 724 771. Fax 317 724 761. Rooms 26 Road map B3.
A modern hotel standing in the centre of Beneov, 2 km (1 mile) from Konopite Castle. Two-, three- and four-bed
rooms, with bathrooms and satellite TV; six rooms have a minibar. One room has wheelchair access. Restaurant with
a summer terrace. www.hotel-atlas.cz

KOLN Chateau Kotra /h0 |

Ratbo u Kolna, Komenskho 40, 281 41. Tel 321 613 111. Fax 321 613 101. Rooms 39 Road map B2.
The hotel is situated 5 km (3 miles) southwest of Koln, in a palace designed in Neo-Classical style by Czech
Modernist architect Jan Kotra. Luxuriously furnished rooms. The hotel restaurant specializes in Mediterranean
cuisine and has wines from all over the world. Sauna, gymnasium, bicycle hire, tennis courts. www.hotelkotera.cz

KIVOKLT Roztoky h0 |

Roztoky u Kivokltu 14, 270 23. Tel 313 558 931. Fax 313 558 933. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
A quiet, inexpensive hotel about 1.5 km (1 mile) from Kivoklt Castle, adjacent to a protected nature area,
Kivokltsko. Stylish restaurant serving tasty food, and outdoor seating in the summer. A pub brews its own beer on
the premises. www.hotelroztoky.cz

KUTN HORA Hotel U Zvonu h0 |

Zvonask .p. 286, 284 01. Tel 327 511 516. Fax 327 516 571. Rooms 7 Road map B2.
A small congenial hotel located within the historic Old Town, in a peaceful street close to the town square and
200 m (220 yds) from the bus station. It occupies a Baroque 18th-century building. All rooms have en suite facilities,
and the hotel has a pleasant restaurant (see p378). www.uzvonu.cz

KUTN HORA U Re /h0S |

Zmecka 52, 284 03. Tel 327 524 115. Fax 327 563 202. Rooms 13 Road map B2.
The hotel is on the outskirts of Sedlec, close to the famous Ossuary. Its stylish interiors are furnished with original old
furniture. It provides facilities for tennis, squash, bowling and paintball; it also has a swimming pool, sauna and
fitness club. The restaurant offers a wide selection of Czech and European cuisine. www.ruzehotel.cz

KUTN HORA U Vlaskho dvora /0 |

28. jna 511, 284 01. Tel 327 514 618. Fax 327 514 627. Rooms 10 Road map B2.
A snug hotel in a historic 15th-century building in a quiet street in the medieval town centre. Park, swimming pool
and tennis courts are all close by. Well-appointed rooms have views over the towers and steeples of the Old Town.
Has a good restaurant (see p378). www.vlasskydvur.cz
350 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

MLNK Hotel Ludmila h0 |

Prask 2639, 276 01. Tel 315 622 419. Fax 226 013 803. Rooms 79 Road map B2.
A long-established hotel, located at the edge of the town, some 2 km (1 mile) from the centre. Ludmila offers
comfortable rooms of standard and economy class. It has a restaurant (see p379), pub and sports bar attached,
with a bowling alley; tennis courts nearby. www.ludmila.cz

MLNK U Ryt /0 |

Svatovclavsk 17, 276 01. Tel 315 621 440. Fax 315 621 439. Rooms 8 (apartments) Road map B2.
A charming little hotel, conveniently located in the historic town centre. A nearby viewpoint affords splendid views
over the confluence of the Vltava and Labe rivers. The luxurious restaurant serves Czech and European specialities;
vintage wines and a variety of beers are also on offer. www.urytiru.cz

MLAD BOLESLAV U Hradu /h0 |

Staromstsk nmst 108, 293 01. Tel 326 721 049. Fax 326 721 039. Rooms 31 Road map B2.
A smallish hotel in the town centre, at the foot of the castle. Pleasant rooms, with bathroom and TV, are clean and
snug. There are two restaurants: one serving Czech cuisine, the other specializing in fish dishes and with a garden
area for outdoor dining. www.uhradu.cz

MNICHOVO HRADIT U Hroznu /0 |

Masarykovo nmst 27, 295 01. Tel 326 771 617. Fax 326 771 246. Rooms 20 Road map B2.
The hotel is very central. It offers pleasant, comfortable rooms with bathrooms, and two luxury suites. The stylish
restaurant serves Czech and European cuisine, and Czech draught beer. Served in the stone-vaulted cellar are
excellent Moravian wines and chefs specials.

PBRAM Modr Hrozen h0 |

Nmst T G Masaryka 143, 261 01. Tel 318 628 007. Tel/Fax 318 628 901. Rooms 22 Road map B3.
The hotel occupies a Baroque building right in the centre of the historic town, close to the steps leading to the
Marian Sanctuary of Svat Hora. Double rooms, two suites and a room for a family with children are all equipped to
modern standards. There is a stylish restaurant (see p379). www.modryhrozen.cz

SZAVA Szava /0 |

Beneovsk 44, 285 06. Tel 327 320 497. Fax 327 321 117. Rooms 9 Road map B2.
A bijou hotel set in a Baroque building. Rooms have a good range of facilities. Caters for families. Every couple
checking in for the night receives a complimentary bottle of wine. The restaurant is famous throughout the Czech
Republic for its excellent cuisine. web.telecom.cz/hotel-sazava

SOUTH BOHEMIA

ESK BUDJOVICE Hotel U Soln Brny h0: |

Radnin 11, 370 01. Tel 386 354 121. Fax 386 354 120. Rooms 12 Road map B3.
A small congenial hotel in the town centre, whose name translates as The Salt Gate. Rooms with balconies or
terraces. The hotel restaurant (see p380) offers a wide selection of dishes, including superb local fish and game, and
a large choice of Moravian wines. www.hotelusolnebrany.cz

ESK BUDJOVICE Hotel U T Lv /h07 |

U T lv 3a, 370 01. Tel 386 359 900. Fax 386 359 780. Rooms 36 Road map B3.
Modern, well-appointed hotel on the edge of the Old Town. Seven rooms and a terraced restaurant are adapted to
the needs of disabled guests. All rooms have satellite TV, telephone, radio and minibar. The restaurant offers Czech,
Slovak and international dishes. www.hotelutrilvu.cz

ESK BUDJOVICE Hotel Ztkv dm /h07 |

Krajinsk 41, 370 01. Tel 387 001 710. Fax 387 001 711. Rooms 10 Road map B3.
Occupying two Renaissance houses decorated with sgraffito, this is a small and friendly place. Comfortable rooms
with modern furnishings including an office desk and Internet access. Considerable reductions are offered on Sunday
nights. A buffet breakfast is included in the price. www.zatkuvdum.cz

ESK BUDJOVICE Grand Hotel Zvon /h0 ||

Nmst Pemysla Otakara II 28, 370 01. Tel 381 601 601. Fax 381 601 605. Rooms 70 Road map B3.
The hotel, occupying three historic buildings in the main town square, boasts traditions going back to the 16th
century. The main reception area features some beautiful paintings and a 17th-century hand-carved ceiling. The
rooms, of various sizes, are all of individual character. The hotel also has three restaurants. www.hotel-zvon.cz

ESK KRUMLOV Hotel Bellevue /h0S |

Latrn 77, 381 01. Tel 380 720 111. Fax 380 720 119. Rooms 65 Road map B3.
The hotel, opened in June 2002, will satisfy even the most fastidious of guests, for a moderate price. Right in the
heart of Latrn, it has luxurious rooms and suites, with satellite TV, Internet access and safes. The restaurant offers
up-to-the-minute cuisine. www.hmv.cz

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 351

ESK KRUMLOV Leonardo h0 |

Soukenick 33, 381 01. Tel 380 725 911. Fax 380 725 910. Rooms 11 Road map B3.
A cosy, refurbished hotel situated in a historic building dating from 1582 and featuring lovely wooden
ceilings and a Baroque staircase. It is centrally located near the main square. The price includes breakfast, which
is served in the large dining room. www.hotel-leonardo.cz

ESK KRUMLOV Pension Rosa /h7 |

Lineck 54, 381 01. Tel 723 854 195. Rooms 17 Road map B3.
This small, congenial pension in a pink Baroque building is located on the edge of the historic town centre but
within easy reach of the main sights. It offers luxury rooms, adapted for people with disabilities, fitted with satellite
TV and en suite bathrooms. www.pension-rosa.cz

ESK KRUMLOV Zlat Andl /h0 |

Nmst Svornosti 11, 381 01. Tel 380 712 310. Fax 380 712 927. Rooms 39 Road map B3.
In a Baroque building right at the town centre, opposite the town hall, this magnificent hotel perfectly combines
tradition with modernity. All rooms, with en suite bathroom, satellite TV and minibar, are of a very high standard.
The hotel has two restaurants, a cocktail bar, a caf and a grill. www.hotelzlatyandel.cz

HLUBOK NAD VLTAVOU Hotel Apartment Hlubok /h |

Masarykova 972, 373 41. Tel 387 967 777. Fax 387 967 787. Rooms 10 Road map B3.
This luxury hotel is situated near the castle. It has ten suites, each consisting of two bedrooms, dining room, lounge,
kitchen, separate bathroom and WC, offering comfort and good-value facilities for business travellers, individual
tourists and families alike. www.kamille.cz

HLUBOK NAD VLTAVOU Hotel tekl /h0 |||

Bezruova 141, 373 41. Tel 387 967 491. Fax 387 967 491. Rooms 44 Road map B3.
A romantic hotel in a Neo-Gothic building in beautiful surroundings close to the castle. Room furnishings are
reminiscent of castle interiors; no two are identical. Each room is decorated with copies of Old Dutch masters. The
wellness centre offers Thai massage.

JINDICHV HRADEC Vajgar h0 |

Nmst Mru 162/I, 377 01. Tel 384 361 271. Fax 607 853 976. Rooms 18 Road map B3.
An inexpensive hotel of a decent standard. It is housed in one of the former merchants dwellings in the central town
square, surrounded by other historic houses. The restaurant serves traditional Czech cuisine, chefs specials and
Moravian wines. www.hotel-vajgar.cz

PSEK Hotel Bl re /h0S |

rmkova 169, 397 01. Tel 382 214 931. Fax 382 219 002. Rooms 35 Road map B3.
An elegant hotel in the town centre, with a name that translates as White Rose. Rooms are equipped with
bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. There is a restaurant and stylish cellar; the bar has live music and there is a
beerhall with Czech cuisine and a dance floor. www.hotelbilaruze.cz

PRACHATICE Hotel Parkan h0S |

Vn 51, 383 01. Tel/Fax 388 311 868. Rooms 17 Road map B3.
The hotel is housed in a historic 14th-century building attached to the external city walls. In 1993 the building
underwent reconstruction and its historic interiors have been supplemented with modern furnishings. The reception
is in a Renaissance hall with a vaulted wooden ceiling. Pleasant restaurant (see p381). www.hotelparkan.cz

PRACHATICE Koruna h0 |

Velk nmst 48, 383 01. Tel 388 310 177. Rooms 20 Road map B3.
In the predominantly Renaissance town centre of Prachatice, this hotel occupies a medieval building. Its rooms have
en suite and satellite TV. The hotel restaurant will satisfy any gourmets, with its old Czech specialities and modern
variations on local cuisine. The wine cellar is worthy of attention. www.pthotel.cz

ROMBERK NAD VLTAVOU Re h0 |

Romberk nad Vltavou 78, 382 18. Tel 380 749 715. Fax 380 749 717. Rooms 14 Road map B3.
A small congenial hotel occupying a 16th-century Renaissance house at the foot of the castle. It combines the
romantic air of an old building with modern room furnishings. There are two suites Komnata Petra Voka and
Prechty z Romberka. Two restaurants serve Czech cuisine. www.hotel-ruze.cz

SLAVONICE Hotel Arkda 0 |

Nmst Mru 466, 378 81. Tel 384 408 408. Fax 384 408 401. Rooms 19 Road map B3.
The hotel occupies a beautiful pink and white Renaissance town house in the town square. Inside, the atmosphere is
quiet and refined. The comfortable rooms have all modern facilities, and there is a restaurant. Bicycle hire is available
for leisurely exploration of the area. www.hotelarkada.cz

TBOR Hotel Kapital /h0 |

9. kvtna 617, 390 01. Tel 381 256 096. Fax 381 252 411. Rooms 25 Road map B3.
Situated close to the medieval town centre, the Kapital offers clean rooms with all modern facilities. Restaurant with
a terrace for summer dining (see p382). Bicycle hire is available; the hotel can also arrange horse riding and jaunts in
a horse and cart. www.hotel-kapital.cz
352 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

TEBO Bohemia & Regent /h0:e7 |

U Svta 750, 379 01. Tel 384 721 394. Fax 384 721 395. Rooms 85 Road map C3.
A complex of two hotels situated on the outskirts of town, close to the Svet pond, one of the largest of the areas
many fish ponds. There are two restaurants in the complex, including one on the lakeside that specializes in fish
dishes. www.bohemia-regent.cz

WEST BOHEMIA

CHEB Hvzda /h07 |

Nmst Krle Jiho z Podbrad 5, 350 02. Tel 354 422 549. Fax 354 422 546. Rooms 20 Road map A2.
The hotel occupies an historic town house in the Old Town square and is near all the towns main sights. Rooms are
well kept and pleasant, but not all have en suite bathrooms. The hotel has facilities for the disabled. Restaurant with
a terrace. www.hotel-hvezda.cz

CHEB Penzion Hostel h |

idovsk 7, 350 02. Tel 354 423 401, 606 344 140. Fax 354 423 401. Rooms 8 Road map A2.
A small pension of a higher than usual standard, situated in the Old Town, just off the the town square. High-
ceilinged double rooms with bathrooms; the rooms can be combined into larger units. Breakfast is not included in
the price. http://tic.mestocheb.cz

DOMALICE Konelsk enk /h0 |

Vodn 33, 334 01. Tel 379 720 200. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
In a medieval house, within Domalices Old Town centre, this hotel has views of the castle. Following its
refurbishment the spacious rooms offer homely facilities and atmosphere. There is a beautifully kept garden for
relaxation. In the hotel basement is a stylish restaurant-pizzeria. www.konselskysenk.cz

DOMALICE Pension Family /h0: |

koln 107, 334 01. Tel 379 725 962. Fax 379 725 962. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
Situated in Domalices historic town centre, 100 m (110 yds) from the main square, the pension offers plainly
furnished but clean rooms with bathroom, at very attractive prices. There is also an apartment. The terrace is open in
summer. Bicycle hire is available. www.pensionfamily.cz

FRANTIKOVY LZN Spa Hotel Centrum /h0 |

Anglick 392/5A, 351 01. Tel 354 543 156. Fax 354 543 157. Rooms 20 Road map A2.
A comfortable, small, stylish hotel close to the main park. Elegant rooms and suites each have a bathroom and all
the usual facilities. The hotels spa centre offers baths, massage and an extensive range of treatments under medical
supervision. www.spahotelcentrum.cz

HOROVSK TN umava h0 |

Nmst Republiky 11, 346 01. Tel 379 422 800. Rooms 10 Road map A3.
Excellent for business or tourist groups, this small, congenial hotel is in the town square. Offers a decent standard of
rooms each with bathroom and a small TV set. Serves lunch and dinner, mainly Czech cuisine. Dogs and cats
welcome. www.hotel.htyn.cz

KARLOVY VARY Hotel Kavalerie 0 |

T G Masaryka 43, 360 01. Tel 353 229 613. Fax 353 236 171. Rooms 5 Road map A2.
A small hotel in the centre of the resorts pedestrianized zone, in a peaceful and quiet district within easy reach of
bus and train stations. Large, bright rooms with pleasant decor and comfortable beds. Restaurant offers home
cooking and some outdoor seating. www.kavalerie.cz

KARLOVY VARY Hotel ajkovskij /0S ||

Sadov 44, 360 01. Tel 353 237 520. Fax 353 237 521. Rooms 37 Road map A2.
This four-star hotel in a late 19th-century building close to the synagogue offers luxury conditions to its residents.
The amenities include a spa, medical care and a restaurant serving international cuisine and Czech specialities.
Special diets are catered for. www.cajkovskij.com

KARLOVY VARY Hotel Romance Pukin /h0S ||

Trit 37, 360 90. Tel 353 222 646. Fax 353 224 134. Rooms 37 Road map A2.
Right at the centre of the resort, opposite the Castle Spa, this hotel offers comfortable, well-appointed rooms that
are stylishly furnished and suitable for holiday-makers and business travellers alike. Restaurant with a summer terrace
that offers stunning views. www.hotelromance.cz

KARLOVY VARY Grandhotel Pupp /h0:e ||||

Mrov nmst 2, 360 91. Tel 353 109 111. Fax 353 224 032. Rooms 228 Road map A2.
One of the most famous Czech hotels, with traditions going back to the early 18th century. Luxuriously furnished
rooms with minibar, safe, satellite TV and dazzling bathrooms. The amenities include restaurant (see p382), casino,
an impressive concert hall with Neo-Baroque interior, and of course a fabulous spa centre. www.pupp.cz

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 353

LOKET Bl k /h0 |

T G Masaryka 109, 357 33. Tel 352 661 809. Fax 352 661 877. Rooms 26 Road map A2.
The name of this elegant, modernized hotel translates as White Horse. It occupies a Neo-Renaissance
house in the Old Town Square that J W Goethe visited many times. The amenities include restaurant, wine
bar and summer terrace. www.hotel-bilykun.cz

MARINSK LZN Hotel Maxim h0eS |

Nehrova 141/1, 353 01. Tel 354 603 301. Fax 354 603 303. Rooms 29 Road map A2.
In a grand Neo-Classical building in the resorts centre, this hotel has retained its period interiors. Accommodation is
in luxurious rooms. Offers medical treatment, therapy and rehabilitation; swimming pool (therapeutic baths). The
restaurant menu is extensive. www.hotelmaxim.cz

MARINSK LZN Hotel Excelsior /h0 ||

Hlavn 121, 353 01. Tel 354 697 111. Fax 354 697 221. Rooms 64 Road map A2.
Situated in a large, ornate building close to the Singing Fountain, the hotel offers pleasantly furnished rooms, most
with bathrooms. It is part of the Orea chain of hotels. The Restaurant 1900 serves international cuisine; there is also a
summer terrace. hotelexcelsior.cz

PLZE Hotel Continental /h0ef |

Zbrojnick 8, 301 00. Tel 377 235 292. Fax 377 221 746. Rooms 85 Road map A3.
The Continental is situated in a building that dates from 1895. Its elegant rooms display individual character; a dozen
or so have decor associated with certain themes, such as the sea, old Paris or London. Its former guests include
celebrities, such as Marlene Dietrich and John Malkovich. Live music nightly. www.hotelcontinental.cz

PLZE Hotel Irida /h0:ez |

Na Po 398/3, 301 00. Tel 373 729 612. Fax 373 729 616. Rooms 21 Road map A3.
This hotel, in a Neo-Classical building with a magnificent view over the river, is situated very close to the town centre.
Clean, modern, well-equipped rooms with spotless bathrooms. Buffet breakfast. Sauna, hydro-massage, therapeutic
gymnastics. Naturally, Pilsner Urquell is served in the bar. www.irida.cz

PLZE Hotel Victoria /h0 |

Borsk 19, 301 00. Tel 377 221 010. Fax 377 423 370. Rooms 56 Road map A3.
The hotel occupies a grand, early 20th-century town house, a 10-minute walk from the town centre. Homely
interiors create a relaxing, intimate atmosphere. The small walled terrace is a peaceful place to eat out in warm
weather. Fitness club, massages, billiards. Bicycle hire is available. www.hotel-victoria.cz

PLZE Parkhotel Plze /h0:eS |

U Borskho parku 31, 320 04. Tel 378 772 977. Fax 378 772 978. Rooms 150 Road map A3.
This hotel is in a beautiful area of Borsk Park. Comfortable, luxuriously furnished rooms. Italian food is served in the
romantic Emporio restaurant (see p383), and there is an excellent wine bar. A golf driving
range is attached to the hotel with facilities to hire equipment. www.parkhotel-plzen.cz

NORTH BOHEMIA

DN Hotel Faust /h07 |

U Plovrny 43, 405 01. Tel 412 518 859. Rooms 38 Road map B2.
The hotel is located near a pond in the centre of Dn, close to the town square. Well-appointed rooms with en
suite bathrooms; one adapted for the disabled. Restaurant with a terrace and a specialist selection of South
Moravian wines. www.hotelfaust.cz

HENSKO Hotel Mezn Louka /h0 |

Mezn 71, 407 17. Tel 412 554 220. Tel/Fax 412 554 027. Rooms 24 Road map B2.
Enjoying a magnificent setting at the heart of esk vcarsko National Park, the hotel occupies the building of a former
gamekeepers house, which in the late 19th century was turned into a hotel. It provides an excellent base for exploring
the park. The facilities include mountain-bike hire, table tennis and billiards. www.cztour.cz/meznilouka

HENSKO Hotel Praha Hensko /h0 |

Hensko 37, 407 17. Tel 412 554 006. Fax. 412 554 162. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
A beautifully located hotel in the town of Hensko, on the edge of esk vcarsko National Park. It occupies a stylish
building representing the regional architecture, built in 1914 and modernized in 1995. It offers high standards and
luxuriously appointed rooms. www.hotel-hrensko.cz

LIBEREC Hotel Praha /h0 |

elezn 2/1, 460 01. Tel 485 102 655. Fax 485 113 138. Rooms 30 Road map B2.
In a lovely Art Nouveau building constructed as a hotel in 1905, the Hotel Praha is in a central location in the town
square. It was modernized during the 1990s and now offers comfortable rooms, a good restaurant and stylish Art
Nouveau interiors. www.hotelpraha.net
354 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

LIBEREC Hotel U jezrka h |

Masarykova 44, 460 01. Tel 482 710 407. Fax 482 710 437. Rooms 38 Road map B2.
The hotel is a 15-minute walk east of the town centre, in a leafy area close to the zoo and the botanical gardens.
Nearby is an indoor swimming pool and aquapark. Bicycle trails lead from the hotel to the Jizersk hory mountains.
www.hotelujezirka.cz

LIBEREC Impuls /h0 |

Hodkovick 52, 460 13. Tel 482 772 510. Fax 485 135 184. Rooms 20 Road map B2.
A stylish three-star hotel near the town centre, close to the Jested sports complex and Babylon entertainment centre.
Pleasant rooms with bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. The facilities include restaurant, bar, caf and secure
parking. www.hotelimpuls.cz

LIBEREC Koick h |

Koick 471, 460 03. Tel 486 131 470, 608 001 168. Road map B2.
Hostel-type accommodation is offered in this inexpensive hotel. Rooms for two and four occupants, with one
bathroom shared between two rooms; facilities are basic but clean. Apartments are available. Private car park. Close
to railway and bus stations. www.ubytovna-liberec.cz

LITOMICE Dejmalk /0: |

Sovova 3, 412 01. Tel 724 835 848. Fax 416 533 660. Rooms 14 Road map B2.
A pleasant little hotel in the town centre, and a good base for visiting the Terezn fortress to the south. Baths have
whirlpool massage. Horse riding can be arranged. Amenities nearby include an indoor swimming pool, thermal
baths, sauna, solarium and bicycle trail. www.dejmalik.eu

TEPLICE Hotel Payer /h07 |

U Hadch lzn 1153, 415 01. Tel 417 531 446. Fax 417 531 448. Rooms 35 Road map B2.
The elegant Neo-Classical building enjoys a magnificent view over the spa park. The hotel offers comfortable rooms
with air conditioning, minibar and satellite TV. Facilities for the disabled. It has a new wing with slightly more
expensive double rooms in a contemporary style. www.hotelpayer.cz

ATEC U Hada /h0S |

Nmst Svobody 155, 438 01. Tel & Fax 415 711 000. Rooms 21 Road map B2.
The hotel is in the historic town centre, occupying a modernized burghers house built in 1235, and featuring some
original stonemasonry. Rooms are comfortable and it has two restaurants (see p385). Solarium, swimming pool,
fitness club, bowling and cinema are all close by. www.uhada-zatec.cz

EAST BOHEMIA

DVR KRLOV Safari /h0S |

tefnikova 1029, 544 01. Tel 499 628 255. Fax 499 629 393. Rooms 30 Road map C2.
A luxurious hotel, close to the famous zoo. Well-equipped rooms all have French windows or balconies looking out
over the central courtyard, which has an outdoor swimming pool. Bowling alley. Guests are entitled to a discount
when visiting the zoo. www.hotelsafari.cz

HRADEC KRLOV Hotelov Dm he |

Heyrovskho 1177, 500 03. Tel 495 511 175. Rooms 131 Road map C2.
An inexpensive hotel standing on the southern outskirts of town, 1 km (half a mile) from the centre. Rooms are
mainly doubles, and there is also a small dormitory. Bathrooms are shared between two rooms. A restaurant and a
sauna are close by. www.hotelovydum.cz

HRADEC KRLOV Nov Adalbertinum /h |

Velk nmst 32, 500 03. Tel 495 063 111. Fax 495 063 405. Rooms 35 Road map C2.
A well-appointed pension with a restaurant housed in an historic Baroque building in the Old Town square. Rooms
are simply furnished, but clean, all with bathroom, TV and telephone. Close by is a large car park, where hotel
residents may leave their cars. www.noveadalbertinum.cz

HRADEC KRLOV U Krlovny Eliky /hSf ||

Mal nmst 11, 500 03. Tel 495 518 052. Fax 495 518 872. Rooms 33 Road map C2.
In the historic town centre, the hotel occupies two burghers houses dating from the 14th century. The old cellars and
vaulted ceilings have been left untouched during the modernization of the premises. The hotel offers a family atmosphere
and luxuriously furnished rooms. In the cellar is a wine bar with live music. www.hotel-ukralovnyelisky.info

JIN Jin /h0:7 |

Havlkova 21, 506 01. Tel 493 544 250. Fax 493 544 251. Rooms 16 Road map B2.
The hotel is in the historic town centre, a short distance from the Valdice Gate. Its renowned restaurant, U dlov
koule, serves game dishes and Czech cuisine. The shop in the cellar offers a wide selection of Bohemian, Moravian
and foreign wines. www.hoteljicin.cz

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 355

LITOMYL Petra /h |

B. Nmcov 166, 570 01. Tel 777 613 061. Fax 461 613 061. Rooms 5 Road map C2.
A small congenial pension in a modernized Renaissance house, in the Old Town. The two rooms on the ground floor
have vaulted ceilings in keeping with the building; all have bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the price. There is a
pretty courtyard garden. www.pension-petra.cz

OPONO Opono /h:S7 |

U stadionu 670, 517 73. Tel 494 668 232. Fax 494 667 480. Rooms 82 Road map C2.
Large, modern hotel close to the town square, aimed mainly at business travellers. It has good facilities for visitors
with disabilities. It is situated within a sports complex that includes a stadium, playing fields, tennis courts, football
pitch and swimming pool.

PARDUBICE Hotel 100 /h |

Kosteln 100, 530 02. Tel 466 511 179. Rooms 10 Road map C2.
Located in the historical centre of the city of Pardubice, Hotel 100 offers quiet, stylish accommodation. Double
and single rooms are available as well as one apartment. Some rooms have views of the castle; all have ensuite
bathrooms and satellite television. Free wireless Internet access available. www.hotel100.cz

PARDUBICE Hotel Zlat tika /h0:S |

trossova 127, 530 02. Tel 466 052 100. Fax 466 052 130. Rooms 40 Road map C2.
This luxurious, modern hotel is at the edge of the town centre. It offers elegant, sunny rooms; in every one of them
the guest will find a bottle of good wine. The amenities include a restaurant, wine bar, and alehouse refurbished in
traditional style. www.zlatastika.cz

TRUTNOV Hotel Adam /h0z7 |

Havlkova 10, 541 01. Tel 499 811 9556. Fax 499 811 957. Rooms 58 Road map C2.
Just a few steps from the main square (Krakonoovo nmst), Hotel Adam is made up of two historical buildings,
both listed as cultural monuments. The hotel features all the usual amenities and a restaurant serving regional Czech
dishes. Trips into the Krkonoe range can be arranged on request. www.hotel-adam.cz

VRCHLAB Hotel Gendorf /h0e7 |

Krkonosk 153, 543 01. Tel 499 429 629. Fax 499 429 632. Rooms 34 Road map B2.
A modern, central hotel, this forms part of a complex that includes a bank and shopping arcade. It is named after
Christopher of Gendorf, a royal counsellor who made great contributions to the towns development. The hotel offers
therapy and rehabilitation treatment sauna, massage, cosmetic laser procedures, and others. www.gendorf.cz

NORTH MORAVIA AND SILESIA

BOUZOV Hotel u Cimbury h0 |

783 25. Tel 585 346 491. Fax 585 346 282. Rooms 13 Road map C3.
Situated right in the town centre, at the foot of Bouzov Castle, the hotel offers rustic-style rooms with simple and
comfortable furnishings, and a restaurant specializing in country cuisine (see p387). An ideal place to stay when
exploring the popular castle. www.cimbura.hotel-cz.com

JESENK Hotel Nodus /h0 |

K vod 430, 790 01. Tel 588 000 914. Rooms 27 Road map C2.
This establishment enjoys a beautiful location on the outskirts of town, with views over the Jesenki mountains. The
adjacent field is equipped with tables for outdoor eating and has a barbecue area where residents can cook their
own food. Well-appointed rooms. Services include sauna and massage. www.nodus.hotel-cz.com

NOV JIN Praha Hotel /h0 |

Lidick 6, 741 01. Tel/Fax 556 701 229. Rooms 24 Road map D3.
An elegant hotel housed in an Art Nouveau building in the Old Town centre, close to the town square. Rooms have
en suite bathroom, satellite TV and telephone; the suites also have a minibar. The large restaurant (see p387) is set in
a grand period interior. www.prahahotel.cz

OLOMOUC Arigone /h0 |

Univerzitn 20, 771 00. Tel 585 232 351. Fax 585 232 350. Rooms 39 Road map C3.
A small, stylish hotel in the town centre. The building itself is a historic site and owes its name to the Italian painter,
Francesco Arigone, who owned it in the 18th century. The restored interiors feature some remains of the original
Romanesque stone masonry. Popular restaurant on two levels and bar. www.arigone.cz

OLOMOUC Hotel Gemo /h0e7 |

Pavelakova 22, 772 00. Tel 585 222 115. Fax 585 231 730. Rooms 33 Road map C3.
Hotel Gemo is housed in a renovated 13th-century building situated in the historical centre of Olomouc. The specially
designed retro-style furniture and paintings by Moravian artists including the famous Czech painter Kristian Kodet
enhance the unique atmosphere. Excellent restaurant (see p387). www.hotel-gemo.cz
356 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

OLOMOUC Hotel Hesperia /h0: |

Brnnsk 55, 779 00. Tel 585 421 735. Fax 585 412 367. Rooms 58 Road map C3.
This hotel is situated on the outskirts of town, a 10-minute stroll from the centre, along the main road to Brno.
It offers luxurious rooms with all modern facilities. Internet room, Xerox and fax are all available to the residents.
There is a large car park in front of the hotel. www.hotel-hesperia.cz

OLOMOUC Pension U Jakuba /h |

Ulice 8. kvtna 9, 772 00. Tel/Fax 585 209 995. Rooms 5 Road map C3.
Close to the Upper Market, this pension is in an historic Renaissance building, which dates back to the 15th century.
In recent years the building has undergone a complete modernization. It offers four luxury studio-apartments, with
fully equipped kitchens, and a three-bedroom attic apartment. www.pensionujakuba.com

OPAVA Iberia /h0 |

Pekask 11, 74 601. Tel 553 776 700. Fax 553 776 702. Rooms 23 Road map D2.
A Spanish flavour distinguishes this modern hotel in a 19th-century town house, close to the town square. Rooms
are stylishly decorated and have bathroom, satellite TV, minibar and Internet access. The Castillo restaurant in the
basement offers Spanish and Czech food and wine. www.hoteliberia.cz

OSTRAVA Hotel Nikolas /h0 |

Ndran 124, 702 00. Tel 596 134 000. Rooms 20 Road map D2.
Located along the main street that links the town centre with the railway station, this hotel is in a historic building
with refurbished and modernized interiors. A pleasant wine bar is open in the evenings. A 20 per cent discount is
offered at weekends.

OSTRAVA Polsk Dm /0 |

Podbradova 53, 714 00. Tel 596 122 001. Fax 596 125 062. Rooms 20 Road map D2.
A well-appointed hotel with beautiful Art Nouveau interiors in Ostravas town centre. The rooms are not very large,
but they are clean and well equipped: all with en suite bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. There are two
restaurants for residents; breakfast is from a self-service bar. www.polskydum.cz

TERNBERK Hotel m /h0 |

echova 11, 785 01. Tel/Fax 585 011 742. Rooms 24 Road map C3.
The hotel is situated in the towns historic centre close to Sternberg Castle. It is housed in a restored building, which
succeeds in creating a pleasant family atmosphere and comfortable conditions in which to relax. An elegant
restaurant. www.hotelm.netsimple.cz

SOUTH MORAVIA

BRNO Amphone h0 |

Tda Kapitna Jaroe 29, 602 00. Tel 545 428 310. Fax 545 428 311. Rooms 55 Road map C3.
A friendly family hotel set in a quiet street at the centre of Brno. It occupies a restored 19th-century town house. In
addition to well-equipped double rooms, it has a small apartment. Excellent food, and in summer it is possible to eat
outside on the terrace. Billiards, table tennis, sauna. www.amphone.cz

BRNO Hotel Bl re /h0 |

Svatopetrsk 26. Tel 545 233 500. Fax 545 233 531. Rooms 23 Road map C3.
Business travellers as well as holidaymakers wishing to relax will enjoy this modern hotel a 10-minute walk from the
town centre. Its elegant, well-equipped rooms are spacious and bright. Tennis courts for the use of residents.
www.hotel-bilaruze.cz

BRNO Hotel Brno /h07 |

Horn 19, 639 00. Tel 543 555 100. Fax 543 215 308. Rooms 90 Road map C3.
The hotel stands in a peaceful area, not far from Brnos centre. Tastefully and simply furnished rooms and suites,
including six rooms adapted for people with disabilities. Restaurant specializes in Moravian cuisine.
www.hotelbrno.cz

BRNO Holiday Inn Brno /h0:e ||

Kkovskho 20, 603 00. Tel 543 122 111. Fax 543 246 990. Rooms 201 Road map C3.
Situated near the trade fair complex near the centre of Brno, this hotel has won numerous awards for its high-quality
service. Large rooms decorated in red and yellow are well-equipped and comfortable. The Prominent restaurant (see
p388) serves dishes prepared in front of diners. There is also a hotel brasserie. www.hibrno.cz

BRNO Hotel Voron 1 /h0:ez ||

Kkovskho 47, 603 73. Tel 543 141 111. Fax 543 212 002. Rooms 369 Road map C3.
This four-star hotel has the regions largest business centre. Air-conditioned rooms, excellent service and hotel restau-
rants satisfy even the most fastidious of guests. There is a whisky bar with live music every evening, and a pub called
the Moravian Cottage. www.orea.cz

Key to Price Guide see p344 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 357

BRNO BW Premier Hotel International Brno /h0:eS |||

Husova 16, 659 21. Tel 542 122 783. Fax 542 211 251. Rooms 252 Road map C3.
Belonging to the Best Western Premier group, this modern hotel offers superbly equipped rooms and suites all with
bathroom, satellite TV, minibar and safe. Its two restaurants, Lucullus and Pilsen, are among the most popular in
Brno. www.hotelinternational.cz

JIHLAVA Grand Hotel Jihlava /h0S= |

Husova 1, 587 52. Tel 567 121 011. Fax 567 310 199. Rooms 33 Road map C3.
In a lovely Art Nouveau building dating from the early 20th century, this hotel is in the town centre, close to the town
square. It offers rooms and three suites furnished with period furniture, in keeping with the hotels character. Bureau
de change and souvenir shop in the reception area. Restaurant and wine bar. www.grandjihlava.cz

KROM Bouek /h0 |

Velk nmst 108, 767 01. Tel 573 342 777. Fax 573 342 777. Rooms 11 Road map D3.
A small congenial hotel, occupying a Baroque house in the town square. Tastefully decorated rooms, some of which
have views of the square and the castle. Restaurant (see p389) has an outdoor seated area open in the summer
months in the arched entrance to the hotel. www.hotelboucek.cz

KROM Pension Excellent /h0 |

Riegrovo nmst 7, 767 01. Tel/Fax 573 333 023. Rooms 12 Road map D3.
Located in the historical centre of Krom, the Pension Excellent guesthouse is housed in a beautiful old building
and offers comfortable accommodation. All rooms have satellite television and there is a lovely terrace and a
restaurant serving traditional Czech cuisine. Sauna and free Internet access. www.tunker.com

MIKULOV Rva /h0 |

esk 2, 692 01. Tel/Fax 519 512 076. Rooms 15 Road map C3.
Right in the centre of this small town, the Rva has rooms and a summer terrrace overlooking Mikulov Castle.
The restaurant offers a wide selection of Czech dishes and local wines. There is also Italian cuisine on offer, with
pizzas a speciality. www.hotelreva.cz

TEL Hotel-Pension Tel No. 20 /h0 |

Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 20, 588 56. Tel 775 999 186. Rooms 9 Road map B3.
This hotel/pension offers comfortable accommodation in a refurbished town house situated in the centre of Tel,
a delightful Czech market town acknowledged by UNESCO for its heritage status. The rooms have beautiful views.
Free TV and Internet. Breakfast is a Swedish-style buffet. Bicycles are available for hire. www.hotel-pension-telc.cz

TEL Hotel Tel h0 |

Na Mstku 37, 588 56. Tel 567 243 109. Fax 567 223 887. Rooms 11 Road map B3.
A small hotel in a street just off the main square in Tel, occupying a Renaissance town house. It offers a high
standard, comfortable rooms and family atmosphere. Its associated restaurant, U Zachariae, spills out on to the
town square. www.hoteltelc.cz

TEL Penzion Steidler /h |

Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 52, 588 56. Tel 567 243 424. Rooms 7 Road map B3.
Housed in one of the stunning, arcaded buildings that surround the historic town square, Penzion Steidler offers
comfortable, simply furnished rooms, some with views towards the lake. A kitchenette is available for guests to
use and there is a common room with a fireplace and television. www.telc-accommodation.eu

TEB Grand Hotel /h0S |

Karlovo nmst 5, 674 01. Tel 568 848 560. Fax 568 848 563. Rooms 100 Road map C3.
Modern hotel in the town centre offering comfortable rooms of a high standard, simply furnished and with pale
wooden floors. Amenities include a sauna, bowling alley and fitness club. The restaurant has local specialities and
wines (see p389). www.hotel-trebic.cz

VRANOV NAD DYJ Hotel Pod Zmkem h0 |

Nmst 45, 671 03. Tel 515 296 216, 515 296 253. Rooms 17 Road map C3.
The hotel enjoys a prominent location on the main square directly below the castle, in a historic building known as
Peters House, whose origins go back to 1524. The rooms are bright and comfortable; there is one apartment, and
some four- and three-bed rooms as well as singles and doubles. www.pod-zamkem.cz

DR NAD SZAVOU Hotel Hajman /h0e7 |

Strojrensk 372, 591 01. Tel/Fax 566 625 208. Rooms 22 Road map C3.
This modernized hotel in the style of a manor house is situated on the outskirts of town, and occupies a house
dating back to 1908. Rooms are comfortably furnished. Spacious restaurant serving Czech cuisine, as well as a large
hotel bar. www.hotelh.cz

ZNOJMO Hotel Morava h0S |

Horn nmst 16, 669 01. Tel 515 224 147. Rooms 10 Road map C3.
The hotel is situated in the Old Town square, in a historic house. The rooms are comfortably and individually
furnished. The restaurant offers an attractive choice of menu and local wines. There is a wine bar in the cellar with
many local wines to choose from. www.hotel-morava-znojmo.cz
358 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Hotels in Slovakia PRICE CATEGORIES

Prices of accommodation in hotels
and pensions are for a double room
The hotels listed in this section have been selected for with bathroom and breakfast,
and include tax.
their attractive location, high standards and range of
under 65
facilities. Hotels are listed by region, starting with 65130
Bratislava, followed by the rest of Slovakia. Under each 130200
200265
town or city, hotels are listed in alphabetical order within over 265
each price category.

BRATISLAVA

Echo h07

Preovsk 39, 821 08 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 55 56 91 70. Fax (02) 55 56 91 74. Rooms 34 Road map C4.
On the eastern edge of the city centre, the hotel is close to the sports hall, stadium, and swimming pools. All the
rooms are spotlessly clean, comfortably furnished and have bathrooms. The hotel restaurant serves breakfast, lunch
and dinner. www.hotelecho.sk

Hotel Incheba /h0e,

Viedensk cesta 37, 851 01 Bratislava 5. Tel (02) 67 27 31 21. Fax (02) 67 27 25 42. Rooms 85 Road map C4.
The hotel is situated within the area of Incheba Expo Bratislava, a major exhibition centre on the right bank of the
Danube. Rooms and suites all have an en suite bathroom and telephone. Fitness club, squash courts, sauna and
solarium. Superb, generous breakfasts. During exhibitions the hotel is often fully booked. www.incheba.sk

Turist /h0

Ondavsk 5, 822 05 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 55 57 27 89. Fax (02) 55 57 31 80. Rooms 99 Road map C4.
About 1.5 km (1 mile) from the historic town centre, the hotel offers plain yet comfortable conditions at reasonable
prices. All rooms have balconies; some are provided with refrigerators. Breakfast included in the price. There are
plenty of amenities nearby, including a park, swimming pool, ice rink and bowling alley. www.turist.sk

Apartmnov hotel Residence Sulekova /hez,

ulekova 20, 811 06 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 10 02 00. Fax (02) 59 10 02 50. Rooms 32 Road map C4.
Close to the city centre and castle, this is the only apartment-type hotel in Bratislava. It offers beautifully fitted apart-
ments with modern decor, complete with kitchen and minibar. Convenient for a longer stay (reduced rates). Part of
the Ma Maison chain, which operates hotels in the capitals of Central Europe. www.residence-sulekova.com

Barnka /h0eSz,7

Murdochova 2, 835 27 Bratislava 37. Tel (02) 44 88 20 89. Fax (02) 44 88 54 00. Rooms 122 Road map C4.
Modern, three-star hotel situated in the Raa district, in a picturesque wine-growing area 20 minutes by tram to the
city centre. Smartly furnished rooms with satellite TV, radio and refrigerator; bathrooms with hairdryers. The facilities
include restaurant, wine bar, summer terrace and a conference room. www.hotelbaronka.sk

Best Western Hotel Antares /h0ez,7

ulekova 15/A, 811 03 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 54 64 89 71. Fax (02) 54 64 89 72. Rooms 16 Road map C4.
A small hotel with superb facilities, located in the quiet residential area at the foot of the castle. Rooms are
decorated in a contemporary style, with air conditioning, satellite TV, wireless Internet connection, minibar and safe.
In the summer breakfast is served in the peaceful garden. www.hotelantares.sk

Best Western Hotel West /h0:e7

Cesta na Kamzik, 833 29 Bratislava 37. Tel (02) 54 78 86 92. Fax (02) 54 77 77 81. Rooms 49 Road map C4.
The hotel stands in a forested area northwest of the city, close to Kamzik mountain. Since 1999 it has been part of
the international Best Western chain, which guarantees a high standard of service. The luxuriously furnished rooms
include desks. The restaurant has an imposing interior and serves a wide variety of dishes. www.hotel-west.sk

Botel Marina /0z,

Nbreie arm. gen. L. Svobodu, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 54 64 18 04. Rooms 32 Road map C4.
This four-star hotel is located on a boat moored off the left bank of the Danube, at the foot of the castle. It offers
comfortable cabins and suites with air-conditioning, Internet access and minibar. There is a nightclub on board. A
unique atmosphere and in an ideal location. www.botelmarina.sk

City Hotel Bratislava /h0ez,

Seberniho 9, 821 03 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 20 60 61 50. Fax (02) 20 60 61 22. Rooms 240 Road map C4.
One of the citys biggest hotels, it is situated in the Ruinov district, between the city centre and the airport. The
rooms are luxurious and stylish. There is a restaurant, lobby bar and grill bar. Large shopping and entertainment
centres are close by. Well served by public transport. www.cityhotelbratislava.sk

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 359

Hotel Set h0ez,7

Kaliniakova 29/A, 831 03 Bratislava. Tel (02) 49 10 96 00. Fax (02) 49 10 96 90. Rooms 25 Road map C4.
Although situated close to the city centre, Hotel Set is in a quiet location. The rooms are sunny and most have a
balcony or small terrace. There are safe deposit boxes in every room, and one room is set aside for disabled guests.
This is a small, cosy hotel with a touch of English elegance. www.hotelset.sk

Hradna Brana Devn /h0:e7

Slovansk nbreie 15, Devn, 841 10 Bratislava 4. Tel (02) 60 10 25 11. Rooms 12 Road map C4.
This small, congenial, luxurious hotel is situated close to the Devn Castle. Superbly equipped rooms, furnished
according to Feng-shui principles. The hotel has facilities for the disabled; it also offers relaxation facilities. There
is a restaurant, caf and lobby bar. www.hotelhb.sk

Sorea Regia /h0:ez,7

Krlovsk dolie 6, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 32 11 28 70. Fax (02) 32 11 28 71. Rooms 70 Road map C4.
This hotel is in a very quiet area above the Danube, though only a 10-minute walk from the city centre. It was
completely renovated in 2010 and the interior and exterior are modern and futuristic. The restaurant serves typical
Slovak dishes, and there is free Wi-Fi. www.sorea.sk

Tatra /h0ez,7

Nm. 1. Mja 5, 811 06 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 27 21 11. Fax (02) 59 27 21 35. Rooms 203 Road map C4.
Tatra is close to Bratislavas city centre, and rooms have beautiful views of the presidential palace. The entire hotel is
adapted for disabled guests, and Wi-Fi is available in all rooms. The hotel is well geared for business travellers and
has large, modern, well-equipped conference rooms. www.hoteltatra.sk

Devin /h0eSz,

Riena 4, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 98 51 11. Fax (02) 54 43 08 58. Rooms 94 Road map C4.
Located in the historic centre of Bratislava, on the banks of the Danube. Comfortable rooms, with state-of-the-art
facilities are furnished in natural materials and wood. All have views of the Danube or the city centre and castle. Plays
host to heads of government during state visits. Superb restaurant (see p391). www.hoteldevin.sk

Holiday Inn Bratislava /h0eSz,7

Bajkalsk 25/A, 825 03 Bratislava 2. Tel (02) 48 24 51 11. Fax (02) 48 24 51 12. Rooms 166 Road map C4.
About 5 km (3 miles) from the city centre, this hotel is an ideal place for business travellers as well as holidaymakers.
It offers comfortable, air-conditioned rooms and three restaurants with Slovak, Italian and international cuisine.
There are also relaxation and business centres. www.holidayinn.sk

Marrols /h0:z,

Tobruck 4, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 57 78 46 00. Fax (02) 57 78 46 01. Rooms 54 Road map C4.
Modern, but in retro-style, this is one of the citys most exclusive hotels. Situated close to the exit from the
Old Bridge. A range of beautiful rooms and three spectacular suites. Numerous events organized for the
guests entertainment. Private taxi service. www.marrols.sk

Radisson Blu Carlton Hotel /h0ez,7

Hviezdoslavovo nm. 3, 811 02 Bratislava 1. Tel (02) 59 39 00 00. Fax (02) 59 39 00 10. Rooms 168 Road map C4.
Situated at the heart of town, close to the Slovak National Theatre, the Carlton is housed in one of the capitals most
imposing buildings, built in 1837. Each floor is dedicated to a different famous composer, and one suite is named
after Maria Theresa. The Mirror Bar serves fantastic cocktails. www.radissonblu.com/hotel-bratislava

Sheraton Bratislava Hotel /h0:eSz,7

Pribinova 12, 81109 Bratislava. Tel (02) 35 35 00 00. Fax (02) 35 35 00 09. Rooms 209 Road map C4.
The Sheraton has a beautiful location on the Danube, with scenic views. It is next to Eurova Business and
Shopping Centre and a mere 10-minute walk from the city centre. The hotel has two vibrant bars and a stylish
interior. www.sheraton-bratislava.com

WEST SLOVAKIA

DUNAJSK STREDA Bonbn /h0:S,7

Albetnske nm. 1202, 929 01. Tel (031) 557 52 22. Fax (031) 557 57 77. Rooms 70 Road map D4.
A modern hotel in the town centre, Bonbn offers all kinds of recreation and relaxation and a high-quality service.
There are family rooms and apartments as well as single and double rooms. In addition to a restaurant and caf,
there is a summer terrace leading to an outdoor pool. Geothermal baths nearby. www.bonbon.sk

KOMRNO Europa /h0S

M R tefnika 1, 945 01. Tel (035) 773 13 49. Fax (035) 773 13 51. Rooms 37 Road map D4.
Two-storey hotel in the central part of town. All rooms have an en suite bathroom, TV and refrigerator. There are
two suites for business travellers and one for a family. The restaurant serves Slovak and international cuisine. There is
also a coffee bar and a fast-food outlet. www.hoteleuropa.sk
360 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

LEVICE Lev /h0,

sl. armady 2, 934 80. Tel (036) 631 30 64. Fax (036) 622 97 39. Rooms 29 Road map D4.
The hotel has been in business for over 100 years. It is housed in an imposing building in the centre of Levice and has
a beautiful Art Nouveau conference hall. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and some have a balcony. Buffet
breakfast included in the price. www.hotellev.sk

MALACKY Hotel Atrium /h0e,7

Zmock 1, 901 01. Tel (034) 772 31 61. Tel/Fax (034) 772 31 63. Rooms 73 Road map C4.
This hotel is situated in a quiet area in the centre of Malacky, close to the Prague-Bratislava motorway, making it
convenient for tourists on their way to or from the Czech Republic, Austria and Hungary. All rooms have Wi-Fi.
The hotel restaurant and caf offer a selection of Slovak dishes. www.hotelmalacky.sk

MODRA Arel Zoka h0:S,

Piesok, 900 01. Tel 905 97 29 28. Rooms 64 Road map C4.
This cottage-style hotel is situated in a wood only 30 minutes drive from Bratislava. It has a garden with an
outdoor swimming pool, a playground for children, an all-weather tennis court and a beach-volleyball court.
www.zochovachata.sk

NITRA Capital /h0:eSz7

Farsk 16, 949 01. Tel (037) 692 52 01. Fax (037) 692 52 03. Rooms 46 Road map D4.
This hotel is an oasis of beauty and tranquillity. All the facilities and service aim at ensuring the highest level of
comfort and relaxation. The rooms have been furnished and equipped with great attention to detail. The lovely,
stylish Symfnia restaurant (see p392) serves Slovak and international cuisine. www.hotelcapital.sk

NITRA Hotel Zlat Klik /h0:z,

Svtourbnska 27, 949 01. Tel (037) 655 02 89. Fax (037) 655 02 93. Rooms 27 Road map D4.
This modern hotel opened in 1994 on the slopes of Mount Zobor and offers a sweeping panorama of Nitra from
many of its comfortably furnished rooms. It has an excellent restaurant (see p392) with a large selection of wines and
an intimate lounge. Sauna, whirlpool and massages are available. www.zlatyklucik.sk

NITRA Park Hotel Tartuf /h0:Sz,

Pust Chotr 495, Beladice, 951 75. Tel (037) 633 02 35. Fax (037) 633 06 80. Rooms 45 Road map D4.
Housed in a beautiful Neo-Classical manor house built around 1820 and in an adjacent building, this hotel lies 18 km
(11 miles) east of Nitra. Stylish interiors with luxurious furnishings, and a music room and billiard room. Superb
restaurant and lovely coffee bar with summer terrace or an open fire in winter. www.tartuf.sk

NITRA Zmock Koruna u Hoffera h0:Sz,7

Svtoplukova 2, 949 01. Tel (037) 651 23 15. Fax (037) 651 23 18. Rooms 16 Road map D4.
Located in a quiet street in one of the most beautiful parts of the city, this hotel is only 5 minutes drive from the
centre. It has a wellness and fitness centre with a swimming pool and a beautiful view over the centre of the city.
With only 16 rooms, it has the feeling of a villa. Free Internet. www.penzion-hoffer.sk

NOV ZAMKY Hubert /h0

Budovatelsk 2, 940 60. Tel (035) 642 64 80. Fax (035) 642 61 76. Rooms 25 Road map D4.
Situated just outside the town on the road to Komarno. A pleasant, small and congenial hotel with traditionally and
comfortably furnished rooms and professional service. The restaurant serves excellent seafood dishes and salads (see
p392). www.hubertnz.sk

NOV ZAMKY Hotel Grand /h0:z,7

Pribinova 19, 940 01. Tel (035) 640 44 24. Tel/Fax (035) 640 44 25. Rooms 22 Road map D4.
A luxury three-star hotel situated outside the town centre and surrounded by a park. The rooms are spacious and
well furnished, with en suite bathroom. The hotel prides itself on its excellent restaurant with a wide selection of
alcoholic drinks. In the summer you can enjoy a meal in the shady garden. www.hotelgrandnz.sk

PEZINOK Tilia /h0ez7

Kollrova 20, 902 01. Tel/Fax (033) 641 24 02. Rooms 37 Road map C4.
Attractively located in the foothills of the Small Carpathians, at the centre of Pezinok, a small town famous for its
wine-making traditions, 18 km (11 miles) northeast of Bratislava. It has a few apartments as well as rooms. The
restaurant occupies a former wine cellar. www.hoteltilia.sk

PIETANY Balnea Esplanade Palace /h0eSz,7

Kpen Ostrov, 921 29. Tel (033) 775 51 11. Fax (033) 775 77 49. Rooms 455 Road map D3.
A luxurious spa hotel in Slovakias largest health resort. It lies in a park, in the central part of the spa island. It offers a
spa-rehabilitation centre and beauty salon. Guests have free use of Water World, which has indoor and outdoor
pools, whirlpool, water massage and saunas. Golf, tennis and volleyball are all close by. www.spapiestany.sk

PIETANY Hotel Thermia Palace /h0eSz,7

Kpen Ostrov, 921 29. Tel (033) 775 61 11. Fax (033) 775 77 39. Rooms 122 Road map D3.
Architecturally the most beautiful hotel in Pietany. The Art Nouveau building is in the southern section of the spa island,
near the thermal springs and sources of mineral waters. It is linked with Irma spa house, allowing the residents to enjoy
thermal baths regardless of the weather. Restaurant serves vegetarian dishes. www.spapiestany.sk

Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 361

PIETANY Magnlia /h0eSz,

kpt. Nlepku 1, 921 01. Tel (033) 762 62 51. Fax (033) 772 11 49. Rooms 125 Road map D3.
The hotel stands on the banks of the Vh river, 1.5 km (1 mile) away from the bus and railway stations. Large, bright
rooms are comfortable and provide a magnificent view over the river and Povask Inovec mountain. Free use of
swimming pool and fitness club. www.hotelmagnolia.sk

SENEC Senec /h0:eS,7

Slnen jazerSever, 903 01. Tel (02) 45 92 72 55. Fax (02) 45 92 72 77. Rooms 104 Road map C4.
Located amid the spectacular scenery of the Sunny Lakes, 18 km (11 miles) east of Bratislava, the hotel has a good
restaurant (see p392) and excellent sports facilities. Indoor and outdoor pools, tennis and squash courts, table tennis,
beach volleyball and more. Supervised activities for children. www.hotelsenec.sk

TROVO Hotel Thermal /h0:eS,7

Pri Vadai 2, 943 01. Tel (036) 756 01 11. Fax (036) 756 01 01. Rooms 47 Road map D4.
This imposing hotel stands close to the huge Vada thermal baths complex. In addition to hotel rooms, it offers
luxury apartments (for 3 and 4 people) within the spa area, bungalows, a hostel and a restaurant. There is also a
childrens play area. www.vadas.sk

SVT JUR Maxim /h0z

Bratislavsk 52/11, 900 21. Tel (02) 44 97 07 42. Fax (02) 44 97 07 43. Rooms 18 Road map C4.
The hotel is situated in this wine-producing town, at the foot of the Small Carpathians. Modern both inside and out,
it has double rooms with a full range of facilities. It has a restaurant, caf and wine cellar. Local and international
specialities are served. www.hotelmaxim.sk

TRENN Penzin Evergreen h0,

Kubransk 8, 911 01. Tel (032) 744 16 71. Fax (032) 743 37 87. Rooms 12 Road map D3.
A small pleasant pension with modern furnishings, situated on the outskirts of town. Well-equipped rooms, and
suites, as well as a restaurant, bar and summer terrace all attractively priced. English breakfast is available but not
included in the price. www.penzionevergreen.sk

TRENN Hotel Tatra /h0:,7

M R tefanika 2, 911 01. Tel (032) 650 61 11. Fax (032) 650 62 13. Rooms 70 Road map D3.
Established in 1901, the hotel enjoys an attractive location in a superb Art Nouveau building reconstructed in
198794. The rooms are comfortably furnished. Its renowned eateries include the main restaurant (see p392)
and the Art Nouveau caf Sissi. www.hotel-tatra.sk

TRENIANSKE TEPLICE Flra /h0:eS,

17 novembra 14, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 29 81. Fax (032) 655 28 24. Rooms 61 Road map D3.
The hotel is in the centre of this spa resort in extensive leafy grounds. All rooms have en suite bathrooms and many
have been refurbished to a high standard. Most of the hotel balconies afford a breathtaking view. Facilities include
rehabilitation treatment and thermal baths. www.hotelflora.sk

TRENIANSKE TEPLICE Hotel Slovakia h0:eS,7

T G Masaryka 3, 914 51. Tel (032) 651 6000. Rooms 90 Road map D3.
This is a large hotel on the promenade, offering comfortable, well-kept, plainly furnished rooms and suites.
The rooms have balconies with a lovely view of the pedestrianized Spa Promenade. Massage, sauna and various
therapies are available. www.hotel-slovakia.sk

TRENIANSKE TEPLICE Hotel Margit h0e,7

T G Masaryka 2, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 10 28. Fax (032) 655 10 29. Rooms 10 Road map D3.
An imposing historical building houses this well-equipped and popular family-owned hotel. The facilities include a
conference room and a wellness centre with sauna and masseurs. The restaurant offers a wide range of Slovak and
international specialities. www.hotel-margit.sk

TRNAVA Penzin U MaMi /hz,

Jeruzalemsk 3, 917 01. Tel (033) 535 42 16. Fax (033) 535 42 17. Rooms 14 Road map D4.
Situated in the town centre, in a peaceful street close to the Archbishops Palace and St Nicholas Cathedral, this
hotel has 11 en suite rooms and three suites, all comfortably furnished. The restaurant is open only to residents.
A fitness centre can be used free of charge by guests. www.penzionumami.sk

TRNAVA Dream /h0ez7

Kapitulsk 12, 917 01. Tel (033) 592 41 11. Fax (033) 592 41 15. Rooms 23 Road map D4.
The hotel enjoys an attractive location in a smartly painted historic building, close to the city walls. Stylishly furnished
rooms and suites include air-conditioning and Internet access. The restaurant and bar offer a large selection of Slovak
and international dishes, plus a good selection of wines. www.hoteldream.sk

TRNAVA Hotel Prestige /h0:ez,7

ladovncka 15 23, 917 01. Tel (033) 591 79 11. Fax (033) 591 79 22. Rooms 30 Road map D4.
This hotel was designed by Slovakias top firm of hotel architects. It has a quiet location near the historic centre of
Trnava and easy access to the ViennaBratislavailina motorway. The rooms are comfortable and spacious with free
Internet. Free secure parking. www.hotelprestige.sk
362 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

CENTRAL SLOVAKIA

BANSK BYSTRICA Dixon /h0:eS,7

vermova 32, 974 01. Tel (048) 413 08 08. Fax (048) 423 11 91. Rooms 107 Road map E3.
A business-oriented hotel, the Dixon has good quality rooms with plain decor, plus one apartment. Guests can make
use of the superb tennis courts (13 outdoor courts; 3 indoors for winter use) and squash courts. A swimming pool
and sauna are also available, plus a games room with pool and table football. www.dixon.sk

BANSK BYSTRICA Horsk hotel achtika /h0:S,

achtika, 974 01. Tel (048) 414 19 11. Fax (048) 414 56 70. Rooms 47 Road map E3.
The hotel is set amid beautiful mountain scenery, in the Low Tatras, at the very heart of the skiing region. It is about
10 km (6 miles) from Bansk Bystrica. There are both rooms and apartments. The hotel restaurant (see p393) offers
Slovak and international cuisine. Modern sports hall; horse riding. Breakfast not included. www.sachticka.sk

BANSK BYSTRICA Hotel Lux /h0ez,7

Nm. Slobody 2, 974 00. Tel (048) 414 41 41. Fax (048) 414 43 24. Rooms 128 Road map E3.
Situated in the town centre, this modern, high-rise hotel has been in business for 35 years and provides excellent,
professional service with pleasant rooms. A good restaurant (see p393) provides a wide selection of Slovak and
international dishes, with an outdoor terrace in summer. www.hotellux.sk

BANSK TIAVNICA Salamander /h0z,

Palrikova 1, 969 01. Tel (045) 691 39 92. Fax (048) 692 12 62. Rooms 16 Road map D4.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre in an imposing corner building is this welcoming hotel. It offers
luxury rooms and suites, a restaurant, a wine bar with a wide and interesting selection of wines and a caf.
www.hotelsalamander.sk

BOJNICE Hotel Pod Zmkom /h0:e,7

Hurbanovo nmestie 2, 972 01. Tel (046) 518 51 00. Fax 540 25 82. Rooms 67 Road map D3.
The hotel belongs to the European Wellness chain. It stands in the town centre, by the castle walls (its name means
under the castle). A large variety of rooms are available, all pleasantly furnished. The hotel prides itself on individual
service. www.hotelpodzamkom.sk

BOJNICE Kaskda /h0eS,7

Jnoikov 1301/24, 972 01. Tel (046) 518 30 10. Fax (046) 540 27 93. Rooms 16 Road map D3.
A modern hotel with its own Aquacentre (pool, hydro-massage, sauna, solarium). The comfortable rooms and
apartments offer satellite TV, broadband Internet connection and minibar. The popular restaurant Kontesa de Jean
Ville serves international and Slovak cuisine, accompanied by top-quality wines. www.kaskada.sk

DEMNOVSK DOLINA Hotel Sorea SNP /h0:e,

032 51. Tel (044) 559 16 61. Fax (044) 559 16 64. Rooms 132 Road map E3.
The hotel is located in one of the most beautiful valleys in the Low Tatras (Nzke Tatry), to the south of Liptovsk
Mikul. Close by are stunning karst caves and Slovakias largest skiing centre, Jasn. An excellent place for families
who enjoy all types of sport and wish to relax in comfortable conditions. www.sorea.sk

GERLACHOV Hotel Hubert /h0:eS,7

Gerlachov 302. Tel (052) 478 08 11. Fax (052) 478 08 05. Rooms 39 Road map E3.
The hotel enjoys an amazing location, 900 m (3,000 ft) above sea level, in the impressive setting of the High Tatras,
overlooking their highest peak, Gerlachovsk. Superb facilities include an outdoor and an indoor pool, fishing pond,
horse riding, and a babysitting service. A good choice of food is available (see p393). www.hotel-hubert.sk

KREMNICA Turistick Ubytova Veternk h0,

Veternick 117/19, 967 01. Tel (045) 674 27 09. Rooms 27 Road map D3.
The Veternk hostel is situated on the outskirts of Kremnica. It has a restaurant, bar and summer terrace overlooking
the gardens. There is a thermal spa just a 5-minute walk from the hostel, with two swimming pools and a sauna.
www.hotelveternik.sk

KREMNICA Golfer /h0:eS,7

J Horvtha 910/50, 967 01. Tel (045) 674 37 67. Fax (045) 674 37 88. Rooms 35 Road map D3.
This golf-orientated hotel offers bright and comfortable rooms. Golf course and golf lessons. Many other sports are
available, winter and summer, including snowboarding, skiing, ice-skating, mountain biking, tennis and basketball.
www.golfer.sk

LIPTOVSK JN Penzin Una h0:S,

Starojnska 25, 032 03. Tel (044) 526 33 29. Fax (044) 528 04 60. Rooms 15 Road map E3.
Penzion Una is situated in a village, near a thermal spring in the Jnska valley, one of the most beautiful spots in the
low Tatras. This small family pension has an excellent kitchen and its own wellness centre with sauna and swimming
pool, and an outdoor open fireplace. www.penzionuna.sk

Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 363

LIPTOVSK JN Hotel Sorea Mj /h0:eS,7

032 03. Tel (044) 520 81 00. Fax (044) 520 89 03. Rooms 118 Road map E3.
The hotel lies amid mountain scenery at the mouth of the Jnska valley. It belongs to the Slovak hotel chain Sorea.
Restaurant, bar, bistro and espresso bar. Indoor pool, plus several outdoor thermal pools (about 28C/82F). Plenty of
other sports facilities, including skiing, make it an ideal base year round. www.sorea.sk

LIPTOVSK MIKULA Klar h0,

1. mja 117, 031 01. Tel (044) 552 29 11. Fax (044) 557 06 36. Rooms 52 Road map E3.
The hotel is in the western part of Liptovsk Mikul, the best-known town in the foothills of the Low Tatras and the
capital of the Liptov region. It offers basic, comfortable rooms in a small high-rise building. Thermal baths and skiing
areas are nearby. www.klar.sk

LIPTOVSK MIKULA Holiday Village Tatralandia /h0:S,7

Rztock 21, 031 05. Tel (044) 547 78 512. Road map E3.
A very child-friendly holiday village 2 km (1 mile) west of Liptovsk Mikul, adjacent to the Aquapark Tatralandia.
Bungalows and apartments are in different styles in different themed areas, such as the Fishing Cove, Liptov Village,
Indian Settlement and Scouts Camp. Comfortable accommodation and great facilities. www.tatralandia.sk

MARTIN Hotel Grandis /h0:e,7

Hrdinov SNP 350, 036 01. Tel (043) 422 00 16. Tel/Fax (043) 422 00 15. Rooms 24 Road map D3.
Located on the outskirts of town, amid the Mal Fatra range, this is a welcoming hotel offering high-quality service.
The rooms are cosily furnished. The restaurant serves gourmet food and has a summer terrace with mountain views.
The caf has an open fire. www.grandis.sk

ORAVSK PODZMOK Penzin Pod Hradom h0,

Oravsk Podzmok 5, 027 41. Tel (043) 908 307 110. Rooms 5 Road map E3.
This family pension is situated just below the scenic Oravsk Castle. It offers cosy accommodation in a family
atmosphere. There is a patisserie, and the hotels stylish bistro restaurant Pod Lampon is excellent.
www.ubytovaniepodhradom.sk

PRIBYLINA Grand Hotel Permon /h0:eSz,7

Podbansk 18, 032 42. Tel (052) 471 01 11. Fax (052) 449 01 33. Rooms 128 Road map E3.
In the Western Tatras, in a valley dominated by the peak of Kriv, this is one of Slovakias biggest and most
exclusive hotels. Rooms are large and comfortable. It has a complex of steam and water baths, plus good sports
facilities including tennis courts, bowling alley, and a gym. www.hotelpermon.sk

RUOMBEROK Kultra /h0ez,7

Antona Bernolka 1, 034 01. Tel (044) 431 31 11. Fax (044) 431 31 75. Rooms 45 Road map E3.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre, the hotel occupies the building of a former cultural centre that was
founded in 1928. The building was thoroughly modernized in 2003, but its stylish interiors have been preserved with
many rooms and facilities around a glass-roofed atrium. www.hotelkultura.sk

STAR HORY Altenberg /h0Sz,

976 02. Tel (048) 419 92 00. Fax (048) 419 92 03. Rooms 21 Road map E3.
This modern, high-standard chalet-style hotel is within fairly easy reach of Bansk Bystrica (11 km/7 miles) and
Donovale (10 km/6 miles). Many of the homely rooms have sloping roofs and great views. Three restaurants,
including fish and pizza specialities. It provides sauna, massage and swimming pools.

STAR SMOKOVEC Horsk hotel Sorea Hrebienok /0:e,

062 01. Tel (052) 442 50 60. Fax (052) 442 50 63. Rooms 75 Road map E3.
Located in Hrebeinok, beside the terminus of the funicular railway that runs from Star Smokovec, this hotel can only
be accessed by funicular. Rooms are comfortable, with satellite TV and balconies. An excellent base for exploring the
central region of the High Tatras on foot or on skis. www.sorea.sk

STAR SMOKOVEC Grand Hotel Star Smokovec /h0:eS,

Vysok Tatry, 062 01. Tel (052) 478 00 00. Fax (052) 472 2157. Rooms 79 Road map E3.
Situated at the centre of Star Smokovec, at the foot of Slavkovsk peak. A hotel with traditions (it has been in
business since 1904), it occupies a romantic Bavarian-style building. Rooms and facilities are luxurious and there is
great attention to detail. Excellent restaurant (see p394). www.grandhotel.sk

TRBSK PLESO Hotel Patria-Vysok Tatry /h0:eS,7

059 85. Tel (052) 449 25 91. Fax (052) 449 25 90. Rooms 159 Road map E3.
The most beautifully located hotel in the High Tatras, the Patria stands above trbsk Lake at 1,355 m (4,445 ft)
above sea level. Surrounded by wild scenery, it offers comfortable rooms, a good choice of food (see p394),
recreation facilities and a full range of services. www.hotelpatria.sk

TATRANSK LOMNICA Hotel & Eurocamp Tatranec /h0:S

Tatransk Lomnica 202. Tel (052) 446 70 92. Fax (052) 446 70 82. Rooms 24 Road map E3.
This hotel and camping resort has a scenic location in the high Tatras. It has large grounds with service centres,
a camping and caravan site and 14 cottages, each for 6 people. There is a restaurant serving traditional Slovak and
international cuisine and a koliba (chalet, cottage) with Gypsy music. www.hoteltatranec.com
364 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

TATRANSK LOMNICA Grand Hotel Praha /h0:eS,

059 60. Tel (052) 446 79 41. Fax (052) 446 74 95. Rooms 96 Road map E3.
A spectacular building in the form of a turreted castle, the hotel stands against the backdrop of the highest peaks of
the High Tatras, crowned by Lomnick peak. Rich traditions, stylish interiors and sophisticated cuisine. The grand
lounge and main restaurant (see p394) are particularly imposing in size and decor. www.ghpraha.sk

ILINA Brnica /h0:eS,7

Bel, 013 05. Tel (041) 569 30 35. Fax (041) 569 30 39. Rooms 28 Road map D3.
This modern hotel stands 22 km (14 miles) east of ilina at the foot of the Mal Fatra range. Tastefully furnished
interiors; one room and one suite adapted for the disabled. Facilities for an active holiday, including tennis courts
and a fitness club. www.hotelbranica.sk

ILINA Hotel Grand /h0:ez7

Sldkoviova 1, 010 01. Tel (041) 564 32 65. Fax (041) 564 32 66. Rooms 41 Road map D3.
A hotel that has been in business for 90 years, the Grand occupies a historic building refurbished in 2001, standing
in a quiet part of ilinas Old Town. Stylish interiors, some rooms with air conditioning and en suite bathrooms. It is
just about possible to see the main square from some rooms. Private garage. www.hotelgrand.sk

EAST SLOVAKIA

BARDEJOV Bellevue /h0:S,

Mihlov 2503, 085 01. Tel (054) 472 84 04. Fax (054) 472 84 09. Rooms 25 Road map F3.
This small, congenial, comfortable hotel stands in a quiet suburban estate, 5 km (3 miles) south of Bardejov. It is
particularly recommended for families. All rooms have bathrooms and satellite TVs, and no-smoking rooms are
available; suites with balconies have a magnificent view over the surrounding area. www.bellevuehotel.sk

KEMAROK Hotel Club /h0e,7

MUDr. Alexandra 24, 060 01. Tel (052) 452 40 51. Fax (052) 452 40 53. Rooms 33 Road map E3.
A small hotel situated in an old building in the historic town centre. The interiors are bright and modern and staff are
welcoming. The well-regarded hotel restaurant specializes in game dishes and its walls are hung with a variety of
hunting trophies. www.hotelclubkezmarok.sk

KOICE Alessandria /h0,

Jiskrova 3, 040 01. Tel (055) 622 59 03. Fax (055) 622 59 18. Rooms 12 Road map F3.
A small congenial hotel located east of the Old Town, offering traditionally furnished rooms with telephone, satellite
TV, minibar and comfortable en suite bathrooms. The facilities include a pool table, bar and restaurant.
www.alessandria.sk

KOICE Dlia /h0Sz,7

Lfflerova 1, 040 01. Tel (055) 799 43 21. Fax (055) 633 17 17. Rooms 35 Road map F3.
Aimed at visitors who favour peace and a family atmosphere, this small hotel is on the east of the Old Town. Attractive,
tastefully furnished rooms create a feeling of utter comfort. The Dlia restaurant, in addition to Slovak and international
cuisine, offers a wide selection of vegetarian dishes. Sauna, hydro-massage. www.hoteldalia.sk

KOICE Hotel Ambassador /0ez,7

Hlavn 101, 040 01. Tel (055) 720 37 20. Fax (055) 720 37 27. Rooms 23 Road map F3.
At the centre of Koice, this is a newly modernized hotel offering simply and comfortably furnished rooms and suites.
All have en suite bathrooms, satellite TV, video, hi-fi and refrigerator. The Ambassador has a popular caf with
outdoor seating in summer on Koices atmospheric main street (see p343). www.ambassador.sk

LEVOA Arkda /h0,

Nmestie Majstra Pavla 26, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 23 72. Fax (053) 451 22 55. Rooms 32 Road map E3.
An establishment in the historic setting of Levoas town square, in a building that has a history going back to the
Gothic era; it was modernized in the 1990s. The rooms are bright and airy, and all have en suite bathrooms.
www.arkada.sk

LEVOA Hotel Stela Levoa /h0:e,

Nmestie Majstra Pavla 55, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 29 43. Fax (053) 451 44 86. Rooms 23 Road map E3.
The hotel is in a historic building, at the heart of Levoas Old Town. The buildings history goes back to the 14th century,
and as early as the 16th century it was already an inn for travelling merchants. It was thoroughly refurbished in 1993.
Besides restaurant and wine bar, the hotel boasts a terrace and an atrium with a fountain. www.hotelstela.sk

MEDZILABORCE Eurohotel Laborec /h0ez,7

Andyho Warhola 195/28, 068 01. Tel (057) 732 13 07. Fax (057) 732 29 94. Rooms 54 Road map F3.
This central hotel is close to the Warhol Family Museum of Modern Art. The original 1978 building was thoroughly
modernized in 2002. Danova ski centre is nearby, and it provides an excellent base for exploring the nearby wooden
Orthodox churches. www.eurohotel.sk

Key to Price Guide see p358 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY I N S L O VA K I A 365

POPRAD Hotel Satel Poprad /h0:eS,

Mnohelova 825, 058 01. Tel (052) 716 11 11. Fax (052) 772 11 20. Rooms 127 Road map E3.
This central hotel was opened in 1991. Rooms are furnished in a modern style. The eating places and sports facilities
are excellent, and there is a nightclub. It offers a wide choice of additional attractions, including scenic flights over
the Tatras mountains. www.hotelsatel.sk

POPRAD Hotel Seasons Poprad /h0:eS7

portov 1397/1, 058 01. Tel (052) 785 12 22. Fax (052) 785 12 20. Rooms 41 Road map E3.
The hotel is part of a superb aquapark with thermal waters. Large, elegant rooms with stylish decor on a seasonal
theme. The hotel guarantees relaxing conditions and welcomes families. Facilities include an Olympic-size swimming
pool, fitness centre, horse riding and bicycle trails. www.aquacity.sk

PREOV Penzin Katie Friovce /h0:,7

Friovce 4. Tel 917 430 201. Fax (051) 772 10 29. Rooms 19 Road map F3.
Situated in the beautiful countryside of the Upper ari region in the Friovce village, with its ancient little church, is
this restored gem of Slovak Renaissance architecture. The mansion has been open since 2002 and has a wonderful
setting adjacent to a park. www.kastielfricovce.sk

PREOV ari Park /h0:S,7

eleznin 1900 Vek ari. 082 21. Tel (051) 747 04 22. Fax (051) 646 04 10. Rooms 17 Road map F3.
Guests can choose from hotel-type accommodation or traditional wooden houses. All rooms are non-smoking.
There is a wellness centre with a traditional village atmosphere, a sauna, massage treatments and a pool. Indoor
and outdoor sports facilities and equipment rental, including bicycles, are on offer too. www.sarispark.sk

PREOV Sentor /h0,

Hlavn 67, 080 01. Tel (051) 773 11 86. Fax (051) 773 10 92. Rooms 18 Road map F3.
Small congenial hotel occupying a historic building, right at the centre of Preov Old Town. Clean, bright
and spacious rooms are tastefully furnished and well equipped. It has a restaurant and there is a wine bar
in the cellar.

PREOV Dukla /h0ez,7

Nmestie Legionrov 2, 080 01. Tel (051) 772 27 41. Fax (051) 773 21 34. Rooms 61 Road map F3.
Conveniently located in the historic town centre, the hotel has been operating since 1951; the building was
modernized in 2000. Well-equipped rooms with bathrooms offer comfort and a pleasant atmosphere. Enjoyable
food at the restaurant and caf. www.hotelduklapresov.sk

RONAVA Hotel ierny Orol /h0:ez,7

Nmestie bankov 17, 048 01. Tel (058) 732 81 86. Rooms 17 Road map E3.
An elegant hotel with a famous restaurant. It occupies a historic, reconstructed burghers house standing in
the town square. The rooms and suites are furnished to a high standard and have showers and telephones.
In the summer there is seating on the square for a drink or light lunch. www.ciernyorol.sk

RONAVA Kras /h0e,7

afrikova 52, 048 01. Tel 058) 788 60 40. Rooms 62 Road map E3.
Conveniently located right at the centre of this mining town, the hotel offers rooms and suites with en suite
bathroom, satellite TV and telephone. The amenities include restaurant, caf and bar. The Mining Museum is close
by. A good base for visiting the Slovensk kras. www.hotel-kras.sk

SPISK NOV VES Hotel Metropol /h0e,7

tefnikovo nm. 2, 052 01. Tel (053) 442 22 41. Fax (053) 442 22 43. Rooms 39 Road map E3.
This high-rise hotel at the centre of the historic capital of the Spi region has been modernized to a high standard.
Large, pleasant rooms decorated in a stylish, contemporary way are suitable for individual visitors, as well as for
families with children. The restaurant (see p395) offers a huge choice. www.hotel-metropol.sk

SPISKE PODHRADIE Kolpingov Dom /h0:,

Spisk Kapitula 15, 053 04. Tel (053) 450 21 11. Rooms 18 Road map E3.
Situated in the former ecclesiastic capital of Spi, the hotel occupies the restored building of the former canonry, part
of the complex on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Close by are the ruins of Spi Castle. The rooms are beautifully
decorated and the restaurant superb. www.hotelkolping.sk

STAR LESN Hotel Horizont /h0:e,

059 60. Tel (052) 446 78 81. Fax (052) 446 72 87. Rooms 41 Road map E3.
Located in between Poprad and the Western Tatras, the Horizont has a lovely panoramic view of the mountains.
Rooms are well appointed. The facilities include a relaxation centre with sauna and hydro-massage, and a tennis
court. www.hotelhorizon.sk

SVIDNK Dukla Senior h0,

Sovietskych hrdinov 221, 089 01. Tel (054) 752 33 88. Fax (054) 500 12 37. Rooms 10 Road map F3.
A small congenial hotel with a friendly atmosphere in leafy surroundings. Rooms and facilities are basic but clean and
adequate. Provides a good base for exploring the surrounding area. The Museum of the Battle of Dukla and an open-
air museum of traditional architecture are nearby.
366 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

WHERE TO EAT

T he cuisines of both republics

are perhaps not particularly
famous in Europe but they
are tasty and usually filling. In the
Czech Republic the classic Czech
opened, often serving modern
versions of traditional Slovak
dishes, or very hearty soups.
While international cuisine is
available in both countries,
dishes (see pp3689) are served in especially in large cities and in
most restaurants, often alongside some hotel restaurants, Italian and
local variations. The beer, of course, Mexican places are very popular.
is world-famous (see p370). Czechs and Slovaks enjoy eating
In Slovakia in recent years the out at any time, and you will find
quality of eating places has that traditional eateries and
been rapidly improving. Many Statue of a chef outside pubs are usually busy and
new restaurants are being a traditional restaurant also welcoming.

pizzerias and burger chains In small towns in the Czech

are all popular. Republic, where customers
In Slovakia most restaurants are scarce, eating places
(retaurcia) are clustered usually remain closed on a
within large towns and main Monday, sometimes even
regions. Away from the tourist from Monday to Wednesday.
trail it is best to look in In Slovakia some provincial
hotels, pensions or hostels. restaurants open their doors
A koliba or sala is a only during the high season,
good choice if you want to and for the rest of the year
taste traditional Slovak they remain firmly shut.
cuisine and the typical sheep Buffet bars in both countries
cheese, bryndza. are usually open from about
A vinre or wine cellar 6am all day.
usually offers tasty food.
A Slovak pivnica or pivre PRICES AND TIPS
(pub) also serves meals, but
The Art Nouveau Hotel Evropa Caf more cheaply. Slovak buffets, Prices of meals in Czech
in Prague (see p376) oberstvenie, serve simple hot restaurants vary considerably.
dishes, plus a large selection In small towns a meal with
EATING PLACES of hearty potato salads, mixed beer usually costs 120150K,
with sausage, eggs and or less, per person. In smart
In the Czech Republic the sometimes fish. In bigger restaurants in bigger towns,
word restaurace (restaurant) towns, a range of fast-food particularly in Prague, a
is a very broad term: it can restaurants and pizzerias can similar meal is likely to
apply to a luxurious establish- be found. cost up to several
ment serving expensive and hundred crowns.
sophisticated dishes, or a OPENING HOURS In Slovakia you can have
popular local inn offering a two-course meal with
simple food, beer and spirits. Czech and Slovak restaurants dessert, in a reasonable
Other types of eating place usually open at 10am (in restaurant, for 720, and
include oberstven, a type of Slovakia sometimes at noon) in the best establishments in
buffet bar with a limited and close at 10pm, or later. Bratislava for about 33.
selection of fast food, such as In both republics
frankfurters, stews or soups. service is included in
Vinrna (wine bars) usually the price, but it
serve food, as do some cafs is customary,
(kavrna). Pubs known as particularly in smart
hospoda or hostinec serve restaurants, to leave
good-value, basic Czech a tip of a dozen or
food. In the Czech Republic, so crowns, or
pivnice are pubs that do not 10 per cent of
serve food. There are many the bill. Credit cards
delicatessens where you can are accepted only
also order a stew, a salad, by a handful of
a pork chop or sandwiches restaurants in Prague,
to be consumed on the Bratislava and other
premises. Ice-cream kiosks, U Kalicha, a famous Prague inn (see p377) large cities.
 W H E R E T O E A T 367

lunchtimes, but if you are VEGETARIANS

planning a dinner on a Friday
or Saturday evening, Meat is central to Czech and
particularly in one of Prague Slovak cuisine and it is hard
or Bratislavas better-known to find vegetarian food out-
eating places, it is advisable side the capitals. In the main
to contact them and make a cities, some upmarket places
reservation in advance. offer menus with a section
entitled meatless dishes
DRESS CODE (bezmasna jdla in Czech,
bezmsite jedl in Slovak).
Czechs and Slovaks tend to These dishes may neverthe-
dress casually and are not too less contain a meat stock or
set on formality, so it is just less meat than usual, so it
generally not necessary to is best to ask.
dress up when going to a
restaurant. Some of the more DISABLED GUESTS
upmarket establishments in
Restaurant Le Monde, opposite the Prague and Bratislava are the Since restaurants providing
Opera in Bratislava (see p391) exception; here you good, level access
should put on are few and far
INTERNATIONAL MENU smarter attire. between in the
Czech Republic,
Menus written in English (or CHILDREN disabled visitors
German) are usual in most must be prepared
restaurants in Prague and Not many to encounter
Bratislava. In Czech provincial restaurants in the many difficulties.
towns and villages you will Czech Republic The situation is
occasionally be offered a offer facilities for slightly better in
German-language menu (in children or even The sign of De Zwaan Slovakia, but
such cases the staff can childrens menus, caf in Bratislava even here it is
manage at least a few though some will far from ideal.
sentences in German) but provide half-portions.
usually the menu is available In Slovakia there is usually SMOKING
only in Czech. Sometimes no problem with ordering a
names of dishes are written in half-portion for a child, and In the Czech and Slovak
chalk, on a blackboard placed many restaurants offer a high- Republics there are usually no
outside the restaurant. For chair. Slovak menus also restrictions concerning
assistance with decoding a often include some childrens smoking in restaurants,
Czech menu, see p447; for a favourites: pancakes although some places are
Slovak menu see p448. (palacinky) with a variety of starting to allocate non-
fillings, usually accompanied smoking areas. Sometimes
WHEN TO EAT by fruit and topped with you can meet with a total ban
cream; and chips (hranolky). on smoking during eating
Breakfasts in the Czech and Pubs in both countries can hours. In Slovakia a wall must
Slovak Republics do not differ be very smoky and so are not separate smoking and non-
much from those offered in ideal for children. smoking areas.
other Central European
countries, usually consisting
of tea, coffee, rolls, cheese
and cold meat. Upmarket
hotels offer a wider breakfast
choice. Lunch is often hearty
but is served and eaten
quickly. Restaurants fill up in
the evening, mainly with beer
drinkers. Snacks are popular
at any time, with plenty of
sweet and savoury options
available (see p369).

RESERVATIONS

Tables can be reserved by

telephone. Some restaurants
can be booked on the
Internet, via their website.
There is no need to book for Elegant interior of Grandrestaurant Pupp in Karlovy Vary (see p382)
368 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

The Flavours of the Czech and Slovak Republics

There is almost no discernable difference between the
cuisines of the Czech and Slovak Republics. Both base their
cooking around Central European staples such as potatoes,
rice and cabbage, along with meat such as pork or beef,
or fish such as carp or trout, which are almost always
roasted or grilled, and accompanied by light sauces and
vegetables. In the Czech Republic, especially around
Prague, game is also popular. Other differences are
mainly in the spelling of various dishes; for instance, the
delicious sour soup known as polvka in the Czech Republic
Blueberries
is polievka in Slovakia.
lightly smoked meat usually well to be edible. Most beef
eaten with bread at breakfast in top restaurants is likely to
or with horseradish as a be imported. The Czech
starter in the evening. Veal, favourite is Prask hovz
usually served by Czechs as peen, roast beef stuffed
Wiener schnitzel (smaen with bacon, ham, cheese,
zek), is popular and good. onion and eggs. When it is
In Slovakia try the local cooked long and slow, it can
goulash, szegedinsky gul, a be tender and delicious. In
combination of stewed pork, Slovakia youll find viedenska
sauerkraut, spices and cream. rostenka, a sirloin steak fried
Beef in the region is not with onions. Czech or Slovak
up to international standards, lamb (jehn/jahnacie) is
and needs to be prepared not the best, either, though
Apple strudel Eclair
Atmospheric U Pinkas cellar bar Plum jam bun
Chocolate cake
and restaurant, Prague (see p376) Fruit buns

MEAT

In both the Czech Republic

and Slovakia, the favourite is
pork (vepov/bravcov). It is Apple crumble
served as steaks, chops or tart
stuffed. It also appears in
goulash, hams and sausages.
Dumplings, frequently in
slices, may be served on the
plate with pork. Dont miss
the celebrated Prague ham
(Praska unka), a succulent, Selection of typical Czech and Slovak cakes and pastries

REGIONAL DISHES AND SPECIALITIES

Knedlky (dumplings) either savoury (pekov) in soups or
sweet (ovocn) with fruits and berries, are perhaps
the Czech Republics best-known delicacy. Once a
mere side dish, they have now become a central
feature of the nations cuisine as chefs rediscover
their charms and experiment with new and
different ways of cooking and serving
them. In Slovakia, crpes (palainky)
play a similar role, and are eaten savoury
as an appetizer or sweet as a dessert. The
Slovaks do have a famous dumpling dish,
Stuffed eggs however: bryndzove halusky are stuffed with
sheeps cheese and topped with bacon. Other
specialities of the region include drtkov polvka/drkov Halazsle
polievka, a remarkably good tripe soup which, although an The Slovaks love this spicy fish
acquired taste, has seen a revival in recent years as better soup, made with carp, trout
restaurants add it to their menus. and mackerel.
 W H E R E T O E A T 369

VEGETABLES

Vegetables in both countries

are excellent, if strictly sea-
sonal. However, they can be
overcooked. Although more
imported, out-of-season
vegetables are appearing in
supermarkets, they
command high prices. As a
result, the cabbage is both
countries top vegetable,
especially in winter, used
raw as a salad or boiled and
served with meats.
Wild chanterelle mushrooms from the forests across the region Sauerkraut is ubiquitous.

from mid-March to mid-May FISH

BEST LOCAL SNACKS
good lamb is available in
markets. Lambs are usually Fish is more popular in Sausages Street stalls and
sold whole, with the head, Slovakia than in the Czech snack bars in cities and towns
which is used to make soup. Republic but, in both, fresh sell traditional sausages (klobsy
carp (kapr/kapor) is the tradi- and utopenci), frankfurters
GAME AND POULTRY tional Christmas meal, usually (prky) or bratwurst, served
baked and served with nuts. in a soft roll with mustard.
A wide variety of game is Trout is often stuffed with Chlebky Open sandwiches
found in the forests around cheese and ham, and grilled. on sliced baguettes are found
Prague. In autumn youll find in Czech city delicatessens or
duck, pheasant, goose, boar, snack bars. Toppings are
rabbit, venison and hare on usually ham, salami or cheese,
many menus. Duck is perhaps always accompanied by a
gherkin (okurkou).
the most popular game dish,
usually roasted with fruit or Pivn sr Beer cheese is
sometimes chestnuts, and soaked in ale until it becomes
served with red cabbage. soft. It is served spread on
Small pheasants, roasted bread and eaten with pickles
whole with juniper and blue- or onions.
berries or cranberries, are also Syreky These tasty cheese
popular; venison is served rounds from Olomouc have a
grilled with mushrooms. Hare pungent aroma and are served
and rabbit are usually served with beer and onions.
in rich, peppery sauces.
Palainky Pancakes are filled
Chicken is popular in with ice cream and/or fruits
Slovakia, where many restau- and jam, and are topped with
rants roast them on a spit, Fresh vegetables on a Prague lashings of sugar.
known as grilovane kura. market stall

Plnn paprika Vepov s kenem Ovocn knedlky

Peppers stuffed with mince Pork is served roasted, often Sweet dumplings are filled
and rice, in a spicy tomato on the bone, with red cabbage with fruit, usually blueberries
sauce, are very popular. and sauerkraut or horseradish. or plums.
370 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

What to Drink
Beer is the most celebrated drink in
both the Czech and Slovak
Republics. But perhaps nowhere
else in Europe is alcohol so freely
available and in so many forms.
In both countries you can buy it not
Slovak beer logo only in late-night shops and in almost
all eating places, but even, for
example, in railway station kiosks and buffets; these
often serve wine and spirits alongside beer. Yet the best
way to enjoy a drink is to join the locals for a glass or
a tankard of beer in one of the many inns known as
hospoda in Czech and hostinec in Slovak. You could
also step into a beer hall or a wine bar where you can
sample a wider range of drinks, and these are often Vinoteka sv. Urbana a famous
accompanied by food. wine shop in Bratislava

BEER (PIVO)

Both countries have many breweries. Normally

served by the half-litre, beer is classed using
the Balling scale, which measures the amount of
sugar before fermentation. The most common
types are dvanctka (12 degrees) and destka
(10 degrees), dvanctka being the stronger.

Beer
classification
Beer garden by the Vltava river in Prague

FAVOURITE BEERS

The best Czech beers are considered by

many to be Pilsner Urquell (Plzesk Prazroj) Percentage
and Gambrinus, both made in Plze, Budvar alcohol
from esk Budjovice, Staropramen from content
Prague, Primator from Nchod, and Lev from
Hradec Krlov. Czech Velkopopovick Kozel beer label
In Slovakia the most popular beers are Zlat In the Czech Republic and Slovakia the word
Baant (Golden Pheasant), Corgo, Topvar, svtl describes light beer. In both countries
ari and Kelt. you can also get a dark lager (tmav).

Gambrinus Pilsner Urquell Kelt Zlat Baant Regent Budvar

(Czech) (Czech) (Slovak) (Slovak) (Czech) (Czech)
 W H A T T O D R I N K 371

WINES

Although they are not big players in

the international wine market, the
Czech and Slovak Republics have a
strong wine culture. Most Czech wine
is grown in South Moravia, bordering
Austria, but the Elbe Valley also
produces fine wines including the
Mlnik variety.
The main region for wine in
Slovakia is on the southern slopes
of the Carpathian Mountains, but
there are other wine producing
towns closer to Bratislava including
Pezinnok, Modra, Nitra and Levice.
In the east of Slovakia lies the
world-famous Tokaj wine district
(shared with Hungary), which
produces sweet wines.

Rulandsk Biele, a White wine from Czech wines in boxes decorated with
white wine from Moravia (Czech Art Nouveau paintings by Alfons
Slovakia Republic) Mucha

SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS

Those who like to sample stronger

drinks in the Czech Republic can
choose from a number of spirits, clear
and flavoured. A flavoured spirit
particularly worth recommending is
merukovice, which has a delicate
apricot flavour. Also popular is slivovice,
a plum brandy. The best-known of the
herb-flavoured spirits is Becherovka
from the spa town of Karlovy Vary. Also
worth trying is the slightly bitter fernet.
In Slovakia, there are several
interesting spirits, including the juniper-
flavoured borovika, produced from
local berries and slightly resembling
gin. There are two types of demnovka
liqueur, the herbal (bylinn) and the Becherovka Borovika Spi Trenianske
dry (hork). (Czech Republic) (Slovakia) Hradn (Slovakia)

SOFT DRINKS

Popular Slovak soft drinks (nealko)

include Vinea and Kofola. Vinea is a
drink produced from grape juice, and
there are white (Vinea biela) and red
(Vinea ervena) varieties. Kofola is a
cola-type drink. Slovaks drink a lot of
mineral water. The country has 1,657
registered sources of mineral water, 106
of them commercially exploited. The
most popular Slovak mineral waters Becher, a Mineral
include Budi (a source regularly utilized Water Cup
since 1573), Fatra, Klatorna, Baldovsk Traditionally used in spas
and Lubovnianka. Mineral water is also to take the waters, this cup
very popular in the Czech Republic. The is named after Dr Jan
best-known local brands include Mattoni, Becher, the first person to
a fizzy water from Karlovy Vary, and conduct scientific analysis
The most popular Slovak Dobr. In both countries mineral water of the mineral waters in
mineral waters is relatively inexpensive. Karlovy Vary.
372 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Restaurants in the Czech Republic PRICE CATEGORIES

Price per person for a three-course
meal with half a bottle of wine,
The restaurants listed below have been selected for their including cover charge, service
excellent food, convenient location and value for and tax.
money. They are divided into regions, as they appear in | under 250K
|| 250450K
the guide. The entries appear alphabetically within each ||| 450650K
price category. Further information is provided in the |||| over 650K
form of symbols.

PRAGUE HRADANY AND MAL STRANA

Malostransk Beseda / ||

Malostransk nmst 21, Praha 1. Tel 257 409 112. Map 2 C2.
This traditional restaurant is located on the ground floor of a historic building. Try one of their forgotten Czech
specialities such as leg of cockerel cooked in a wine-plum sauce, served with fried potato dumplings. Enjoy a cold,
local beer on the outside terrace in the summer.

Cantina /zf |||

jezd 38, Praha 1. Tel 257 317 173. Map 2 E5.

Here everything is king-sized, from the large margaritas to the huge helpings of delicious Tex-Mex food. The menu
includes all possible delicacies, including super burritos and genuine tacos. If you like your food really spicy, ask for
additional seasonings.

Caf Savoy /h:z ||||

Vtzn 12, Praha 1. Tel 257 311 562. Map 2 E5.

The setting here is the real selling point a stunningly restored 19th-century coffee house just across the river from
the National Theatre. The menu offers a good mix of Czech classics and international dishes. Rare for Prague, there is
also a big and inventive breakfast menu. Reservations recommended for dinner.

Cowboys /zf ||||

Nerudova 40, Praha 1. Tel 800 152 672. Map 2 D3.

This flamboyant destination is a sprawling complex of bars and dining rooms, serving slightly overpriced but always
enjoyable steaks and seafood against a backdrop of lavishly eccentric decor. The upper terrace affords one of the
most spectacular views over central Prague. Book in advance.

David /z7 ||||

Trit 21, Praha 1. Tel 257 533 109. Map 2 E3.

The restaurant is reached along a steep cobblestone lane, but it is easily worth the climb. The gourmet set lunch of
traditional Czech specialities, including duck and rabbit, is a serious two- to three-hour affair. The food is
accompanied by an interesting international selection of wines. Booking essential.

Kampa Park /z ||||

Na Kamp 8b, Praha 1. Tel 257 532 685. Map 2 F4.

This upmarket restaurant nestling on the banks of the Vltava, with views of the Charles Bridge, was badly damaged
in the floods of 2002. Now completely restored, its walls are once again covered with photos of its famous guests.
European cuisine with some vegetarian dishes. Seafood and fish are among the specialities.

Mount Steak /z ||||

Josefsk 1, Praha 1. Tel 257 532 652. Map 2 E3.

A great place for meat-lovers. In addition to beef, it offers an enormous choice of over 60 types of steak such as wild
boar, kangaroo, shark and ostrich meat. All are prepared to the guests requirements, roasted, fried, or grilled, and
are served with potatoes and vegetables. A large and tempting selection of salads is on offer.

Nebozzek 7 ||||

Petnsk sady 411, Praha 1. Tel 257 315 329. Map 2 D5.
In spring and summer the particularly popular feature of this famous restaurant in Petn Park is its patio with a
magnificent view over Prague. The interior is snug and elegant. Menu includes seafood, steaks, Chinese food and
Czech cuisine. Mouthwatering desserts, such as stuffed pear with ricotta cheese mousse.

Plffy Palace Restaurant /z ||||

Valdtejnsk 14, Praha 1. Tel 257 530 522. Map 2 E2.

On entering the house at Valdtejnsk 14 climb the stone staircase to this most exquisite restaurant, where you will
feel like you are dining in the private rooms of the aristocracy. Music carrying from the nearby Music Academy
provides the perfect accompaniment to an international menu that changes daily.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 373

Peklo /z ||||

Strahovsk ndvoi 1, Praha 1. Tel 220 516 652. Map 1 B4.

Peklo is within the Strahov Monastery complex, which belongs to the order of Premonstratensians, who have been
keeping wine in their cellars since the 14th century. The upmarket restaurant offers excellent Czech and international
cuisine and a wide selection of wines. The name of this underground restaurant translates as Hell.

U Mal (At the Painters) /:z ||||

Maltzsk nmst 11, Praha 1. Tel 257 530 318. Map 2 E4.
There has been a restaurant on this spot since 1543. Even back then U Mali received high acclaim: Emperor
Rudoph IIs food tasters awarded it three royal stars. Expect the highest quality traditional and contemporary French
cuisine, including a pricey Chteaubriand. The elegant decor is still worthy of royal guests.

U Patrona /:z7 ||||

Draickho nmst 4, Praha 1. Tel 257 530 725. Map 2 F3.

A leading culinary light for years, U Patrona still advances the standard on Pragues Left Bank, by insisting on quality
and old-world style. The cuisine focuses on traditional Czech fare, with boar, duck, lamb and beef taking starring
roles, along with comforting soups. Book ahead to secure one of the two balcony tables.

U T Ptros (At the Three Ostriches) z7 ||||

Draickho nmst 4, Praha 12. Tel 257 288 888. Map 2 E3.
The dining room At the Three Ostriches is reminiscent of a Bavarian hunting lodge, but the food is cooked in
genuine Czech style. Adventurous diners may wish to try the ostrich specialities of stew and roulade Prague style
but you can also settle for something more traditional.

PRAGUE STAR MSTO AND JOSEFOV

Bohemia Bagel :7 |

Masn 2, Praha 1. Tel 224 812 560. Map 3 C3.

The best breakfast deal in Prague is available until late in the morning at this always-busy bagel shop and caf. High-
speed Internet connections are also provided at very reasonable rates. It has become so popular that several other
branches have been opened around Central Prague (in Holeovice and Mal Strana).

Dhaba Beas |

Tnsk 19, Praha 1. Tel 608 035 727. Map 3 C3.

This inexpensive vegetarian North Indian curry restaurant with its Spartan furnishing enjoys enormous popularity. The
food is mostly served on disposable plates, but it is delicious and imaginatively seasoned. It is served with water, to
alleviate the effects of the hot spices.

Kolkovna /7 ||

V Kolkovn 8, Praha 1, 110 00. Tel 224 819 701. Fax 224 819 700. Map 3 C3.
Very good, authentic Czech dishes and excellent beer served from giant kegs combine the best attributes of a great
Czech pub. The waiters can be a little standoffish, especially if you turn up on a crowded night without a reservation.
The downstairs area is completely non-smoking.

Modr zub (Blue Tooth) /hz7 ||

Jindisk 5, Praha 1. Tel 222 212 622. Map 4 D4.

Serving Thai food at its best, this restaurant has a wide selection of Thai soups and fried noodles, as well as very
good vegetarian options, for a quick snack or a light meal. The chefs specialities include Pla Nueng Ma steamed
sea bass with lemon juice, chilli sauce and fresh coriander. There is another branch in Splen Street.

Slovak Restaurant U Dvou Slovlui (At Two Slovaks) /z7 ||

Tnsk 10, 110 00 Praha 1 Star Msto Tel 222 315 165. Map 3 C3.
This reasonably priced restaurant, situated just a one-minute walk from Old Town Square, offers dishes from the
Slovak and Czech national cuisines. Traditional dishes include Haluky (a kind of gnocchi), pirohy (pies), goose and
duck. You can enjoy the best Slovak wines in the friendly atmosphere.

SOUL Restaurant-Grill /hz ||

Dun 9 U Sv. Ducha 3/9, 110 00, Praha 1. Tel 222 313 049. Map 3 B3.
This two-storey restaurant can accommodate up to 150 guests, with additional seating for 35 guests in the garden
on warm days. There are plasma screens, a sound system and Wi-Fi. The menu offers both Czech and international
cuisine with grilled specialities prepared by chef Martin Dudde.

U Provaznice /7 ||

Provaznick 3, Praha 1. Tel 224 232 528. Map 3 C4.

An excellent pub with a long-standing tradition (and ghostly legend). Enchanting interiors with imaginatively painted
walls. Matchless Czech cuisine in all its varieties; draught beer. Desserts and the selection of Czech liqueurs are well
worth trying.
374 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Chez Marcel /:z7 |||

Hatalsk 12, Praha 1. Tel 222 315 676. Map 3 C2.

Chez Marcel is a touch of France in the centre of Prague. Its tables spill onto a quiet square, encouraging business
people and students alike to come for reasonably priced regional plats du jour, and linger for steak au poivre, fresh
mussels and the best fries (chips) in town.

Country Life /:z7 |||

Melantrichova 15, Praha 1. Tel 224 213 366. Map 3 B4.

This belongs to an international group of vegetarian restaurants. Few Prague eateries can compete with its
picturesque setting. It gets crowded at lunchtimes with vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike, hungry for the tasty
pizzas, salads and soups.

Dinitz / |||

Blkova 12, Praha 1. Tel 222 313 308. Map 4 D4.

Caf, bar and bistro in the Jewish Quarter; it belongs to an Israeli who does not believe much in kosher food.
It serves a variety of light meals, desserts and snacks, in exceptionally congenial surroundings. Very popular with
tourists visiting Pragues Jewish Quarter.

Klub Architekt /z |||

Betlmsk nmst 5A, Praha 1. Tel 222 221 443. Map 3 B4.
This hidden gem is tucked away in a warren of tunnels and arches, reached through a courtyard near the Bethlehem
Chapel. The servings are hearty and, unusually for an inexpensive Prague eatery, the menu includes a worthwhile
vegetarian selection.

Orange Moon / |||

Rmov 5, Praha 3. Tel 222 325 119. Map 3 C2.

Immensely popular since its opening, Orange Moon serves Thai, Indian and Burmese food. On the menu its dishes
are marked with a one (spicy), two (very spicy) or three (burning) red pepper rating. There are also some unmarked
dishes for those who prefer milder flavours.

Restaurace Stolet /z7 |||

Karolny Svtl 21, Praha 1. Tel 222 220 008. Map 3 A4.
Arched ceilings, sepia prints and old Chinese porcelain all evoke a gentler era in this warm, friendly restaurant. The
menu is inspired by the famous of yesteryear; for example, you can order a Marlene Dietrich (stuffed avocado with
whipped Roquefort and marzipan) or an Al Capone (roast chicken leg with hot salsa and papaya).

Staromstsk /z7 |||

Staromstsk nmst 19, Praha 1. Tel 224 213 015. Map 3 C3.
Housed in a medieval building on Staromstsk nmst square, this long-standing popular inn is famous for its
classic Czech cuisine and Pilsner beer. The menu includes steaks, salads and home-made desserts. Dine inside or,
during the summer months, choose a table overlooking the square.

Touch Restaurant /z7f |||

Jakubsk 4, Praha 1. Tel 222 322 685. Map 3 C3.

Feathers are the focus of this trendy, modern restaurant in downtown Prague. The menu consists of meals made
from chicken, turkey, ostrich, and any poultry that can be cooked and turned into a tasty and healthy dish. The quality
food served at Touch is great value for money.

7 Angels /zf ||||

Jilsk 20, Praha 1. Tel 224 234 381. Map 3 B4.

There has been a restaurant on this spot since the 13th century, but whatever the changes of management have
been since then, 7 Angels remains one of the most charming small dining rooms in Central Europe. The house
speciality is traditional Bohemian cuisine with the focus on game.

Amici Miei /z7 ||||

Vzesk 5, Praha 1. Tel 224 816 688. Map 3 C2.

A respected enclave for outstanding authentic Italian cuisine, this small, romantic dining room features warm, but
slightly formal service. From salad with langoustines and mango to classic Mediterranean seafood such as salt cod,
the food is consistently excellent. Great Italian wines and seductive sweets.

Barock /:z7 ||||

Pask 24, Praha 1. Tel 222 329 221. Map 3 B2.

An eclectic and excellent range of Thai and Japanese cuisine is served by efficient staff in this perennially fashionable
restaurant. This is not a triumph of style over substance: the beautifully prepared and presented food is really up to
international standards. Booking advisable.

Da Nico Wine Bar and Restaurant /z7 ||||

Dlouh 21, Praha 1. Tel 222 311 807. Map 3 C3.

Restaurant and bar serving mouth-watering Italian cuisine, including pizza, pasta dishes and risotto, and offering the
best selection of Italian wines anywhere in the Czech Republic (over 300). Its cosy interior and efficient staff make it
an ideal place for a romantic tryst, or for a business chat.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 375

Kamenn Most /z ||||

Smetanovo nbe 195, Praha 1. Tel 224 097 100. Map 3 A4.
A visit to this restaurant may turn out to be an unforgettable experience due to its stunning views of the Charles
Bridge. It serves modern and traditional Czech dishes and international cuisine and has a great wine list. There
is also a live music bar, and an Irish pub.

King Solomon /z7 ||||

irok 8, Praha 1. Tel 224 818 752. Map 3 B3.

The light, pleasant interior of the King Solomon extends to its conservatory. All the food is kosher, impeccably
prepared and presented, complemented by kosher wines from the Czech Republic and beyond. They also deliver
special Sabbath meals to hotels throughout Prague.

Kogo /hz7 ||||

Havelsk 27, Praha 1. Tel 224 214 543. Map 3 C4.

With its motto Endless taste of passion, it is clear that Kogo has set out to become Old Towns bellwether of style.
Serving superior Italian dishes with a traditional Czech twist, Kogo is widely popular with discerning locals. Book
ahead. Service is marvellous.

La Bodeguita del Medio /:z7f ||||

Kaprova 5, Praha 1. Tel 224 813 922. Map 3 B3.

In this eclectic and uniquely decorated Cuban restaurant the diners relish their seafood dishes and spiced delicacies.
After dinner it is worth moving upstairs, where you can enjoy imaginative drinks, cocktails and large selection of
Havana cigars late into the night.

La Provence /:zf ||||

tupartsk 9, Praha 1. Tel 800 152 672. Map 3 C3.

A vibrant provincial French restaurant split over two levels, with the main restaurant downstairs, and a brasserie at
street level. The menu of the main restaurant lists such country fare as rabbit or duck, and its rustic decor with its
artistic disorder is charming. Reasonable prices.

Les Moules /:z ||||

Pask 19, Praha 1. Tel 222 315 022. Map 3 B2.

A Belgian restaurant that serves the best Belgian beer, a true rarity in the capital. Its great attraction is the great pots
of fresh mussels, flown directly from Belgium each day. The pommes frites are delicious, too. Other delicacies include
rack of lamb cooked in beer.

Mlnec /z7f ||||

Novotnho lvka 9, Praha 1. Tel 277 000 777. Map 3 A4.

The chef, Marek Purkart, is the first in the Czech Republic to be awarded the Michelin Bibendum three times, so here
you can expect the best food and the highest prices. Crisp roasted duck served with white and red cabbage and
Karlovy Vary dumplings are certainly worth recommending. Traditional Czech cuisine perfected.

Plzesk restaurace v Obecnm dom v Praze /z7f ||||

Nmst Republiky 5, Praha 1. Tel 222 002 780. Map 4 D3.

Touristy but certainly atmospheric gorgeous tiled mosaics of rural scenes cover the walls while an accordionist rolls
out the Beer-Barrel Polka almost non-stop at this eatery. The traditional food and beer are quite good and fairly
priced with great dining offers.

Pravda /z ||||

Pask 17, Praha 1. Tel 222 326 203. Map 3 B2.

A stylishly decorated, restaurant offering superb service and a buzzy atmosphere. Pravda will tempt the adventurous
with its beautifully presented Asian and Scandinavian-inspired fare. This includes relatively expensive seafood dishes
like Cajun crayfish and poached cod. Excellent puddings.

Red, Hot and Blues /z7f ||||

Jakubsk 12, Praha 1. Tel 222 314 639. Map 3 C3.

Located in what were the Czech kings stables some 500 years ago, this place is renowned for its good, home-style
New Orleans and Creole cooking. Chilli, burgers with all the trimmings, soups and other American specialities are all
on offer. There is live jazz or blues most nights.

U Modr Re (The Blue Rose) /:zf ||||

Rytsk 16, Praha 1. Tel 224 225 873. Map 3 B4.

There is something for everyone on the Czech and international menu that includes beef, lamb, game, seafood and
vegetarian dishes. Dishes are beautifully presented and the setting is certainly unique, in beautifully restored 15th-
century catacombs.

V Zti /hz7 ||||

Liliov 1, Praha 1. Tel 222 221 115. Map 3 B4.

Prague was introduced to fine dining at this small restaurant situated close to Bethlehem Chapel on Bethlehem
Square. The tasting menu brings out the kitchens best and pairs it with excellent Moravian and other international
wines. The seafood is so good you will forget you are in a landlocked country.
376 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

PRAGUE NOV MSTO

Ariadne /hzf ||

itn 4, Praha 2. Tel 222 232 315. Map 5 C1.

The ABA has a welcoming interior of brick walls, graceful arches and original candelabra. The feeling of comfort is
further boosted by the food steaks, sirloin, fish, salads and a delicious apple pie for dessert and a good selection
of beers and wines. Large parties often make for a lively atmosphere.

Himalaya /z7 ||

Soukenick 2, Praha 1. Tel 233 353 594. Map 4 D2.

Himalaya is an authentic Indian restaurant in the centre of Prague. It offers traditional Indian cuisine, a tandoori oven,
halal meat and vegetarian food. One of the specialities is Balti cooking, which originated centuries ago in the
Himalayan province of Baltistan, using a distinctive flat-bottomed wok.

Jma / ||

V jm 7, Praha 1. Tel 224 222 383. Map 5 C1.

A popular place, particularly during the lunch hours, when it serves mainly burgers and burritos and is frequented by
office workers and tourists. In the evenings it transforms itself into one of Pragues most congenial bars, where it is
difficult to get a table without advance booking.

Caf Louvre /:z |||

Nrodni tda 20, Praha 1. Tel 224 930 949. Map 3 B5.
An excellent place for breakfast, Caf Louvre has been in business since the early 1900s. As well as a full restaurant
menu of Czech and European fare, they have an excellent selection of cakes and pastries. Theres also a smart billiard
room on the premises.

Hotel Evropa Caf /: |||

Vclavsk nmst 25, Praha 1. Tel 224 215 387. Map 4 D5.
This is a classic Art Nouveau restaurant, though slightly shabby around the edges. It has been extremely popular for
years, particularly among Pragues writers. Its small terrace is one of the nicest in town. The food is average, but peo-
ple come for the ambience and company.

Marie Teresie /z |||

Na Pikop 23, Praha 1. Tel 224 229 869. Map 3 C4.

A fluorescent-lit shopping arcade is left behind on entering this spacious cellar restaurant, named after the Habsburg
empress. The fare is traditional Czech, served with a silver service flourish. Maria Theresas Platter is pork, duck,
smoked meat, white and red cabbage, and three kinds of dumpling.

Radost FX Caf /7f |||

Blehradsk 120, Praha 1. Tel 224 254 776. Map 6 E2.

Good vegetarian food is a rarity in Prague, but the dishes are so good that vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike
make a beeline here for lunch. Beyond the restaurant is a bar serving lethal absinthe cocktails, and an art gallery.
Downstairs is a disco.

U Kalicha /:zf |||

Na bojiti 1214, Praha 1. Tel 224 912 557. Map 6 D2.

The look of this restaurant, including its cartooned walls, is based on the famous Czech novel The Good Soldier
vejk. Its author, Jaroslav Haek, was a frequent visitor. Traditional, heavy Czech cuisine such as roast goose or pork
with cabbage is available. Lively musicians play on a tuba and accordion as you eat.

U Pinkas / |||

Jungmannovo nmst 16, Praha 1. Tel 221 111 150. Map 3 C5.
This inexpensive, good-quality beer hall has been here since 1843. The food is simple yet tasty, and therefore the
place is popular, particularly during lunch hours. It is arranged on three levels: the basement houses a traditional
beer hall, the ground floor is a bar serving light meals and snacks, and above it is a traditional restaurant.

U Sdl /:z |||

Klimentsk 2, Praha 1. Tel 224 813 874. Map 4 D2.

Who can decry the kitsch aspects of this medieval-themed restaurant when it is done with such aplomb? Every dish
has a thematic name, in keeping with the general premise. Cheerful staff. Meat is of good quality and superbly
cooked, with a choice of Czech-influenced sauces.

Zahrada v Opee /:z7 |||

Legerova 75, Praha 1. Tel 224 239 685. Map 6 E1.

The Garden at the Opera lies between the National Museum and the State Opera. It has a sophisticated menu,
which includes some imaginative salads, and the decor is sleek and modern. Outstanding value for money, it makes
a perfect gourmet dinner choice before or after a night at the opera.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 377

Alcron /hz7 ||||

tpnsk 40, Praha 2. Tel 222 820 000. Map 6 D1.

Seafood is the speciality at Radissons restaurant, but the chef is happy to prepare almost any dish. Just ask him as he
makes the rounds of this minute Art Deco lounge. If the dining room is full, try La Rotonde across the foyer. After
dinner, you can enjoy cocktails and live jazz in the Be Bop Bar.

Aromi : ||||

Mnesova 78, Praha 1. Tel 22 27 13 222. Map 6 E1.

One of Pragues finest Italian restaurants, Aromi offers an authentic taste of Italy in simple surroundings. The cream
and brown decor is restrained and the atmosphere relaxed. Specialities here are seafood and pasta and there are also
excellent wines from around the world. Good value.

Buffalo Bills /:z ||||

Vodikova 9, Praha 1. Tel 224 948 624. Map 5 C1.

Quite a sensation when it opened in 1993 on this busy thoroughfare, Buffalo Bills still draws locals, expatriates
and tourists alike with its mixture of Tex Mex dishes and its range of ribs and wings from the American grill.
Definitely child-friendly.

Caf Imperial /:z ||||

Na Po 15, Praha 1. Tel 246 011 440. Map 4 D3.

This high-ceilinged caf is covered in beautiful, original Art Deco tilework. Its atmosphere is that of a stylish old
European coffee-house, yet the prices are affordable. It serves light breakfasts, lunches, suppers and snacks. The
wide-ranging menu includes Chinese dishes and choices for kids.

Trattoria Cicala /z ||||

itn 43, Praha 1. Tel 222 210 375. Map 6 D1.

The owner is an Italian who does not speak English and has only a rudimentary knowledge of Czech. This is the most
genuine Italian restaurant, the walls hung with photos of the best dishes, which taste like mammas food. Its
zuppa di cozze (mussel soup) is the tastiest in Prague.

U Flek /zf ||||

Kemencova 11, Praha 1. Tel 224 934 019. Map 5 B1.

This is a combination of restaurant, pub and brewery set in a maze of rooms resembling caves and caverns. It is said
that some of them date from 1499; the brewery was founded in the early 20th century. Book in advance for the
restaurant, which serves robust Czech pub fare (see also p96).

Zvonice /hz ||||

Jindisk v, Jindisk ulice, Praha 1. Tel 224 220 009. Map 4 D4.
Zvonice is located on the seventh and eighth floors of the tower called Jindisk ve that was re-opened after two
years of renovation. Care has been taken with the decor to preserve the towers heritage. There is a good selection
of salads and traditional Czech dishes on the menu.

PRAGUE ENVIRONS

U Holan f ||

Londnsk 10, Praha 1. Tel 222 511 001. Map 6 E3.

Tuck into a plate of pickled sausages or herring at Vinohradys favourite no-nonsense pub. The decor here is simple
and clean with dark wood panelling, and the service is efficient but perfunctory. There is live music in the evenings
and an outdoor beer garden that is great for families.

U Maran /zf ||

Veleslavnsk 14, Praha 6. Tel 235 360 623.

Folk music, dancing and singing every night make this restaurant very popular with visitors to Prague. It is situated in
a lovely villa, a fair distance from the city centre, so you have to take a taxi. Czech food is served on long communal
tables. The portions are enormous, and the beer glasses are even bigger. Reservation essential.

Koliba Prague /z7 |||

Gregorova 8, Praha 11. Tel 272 941 340.

This large, relaxed, open-plan restaurant, set on a hill above Prague, fills up with diners every evening during the
summer months. Gypsy musicians encourage locals and visitors alike to join in with the singing. Simple but
toothsome steaks and fish dishes.

Ambiente /:z ||||

Mnesova 59, Praha 3. Tel 222 727 851. Map 6 E1.

This eclectic and good-value restaurant, which features everything from American Southwestern to Italian cuisine, is
renowned for its salads they serve probably the best Caesar salad in Prague. Desserts are also wonderful, so leave
some room.
378 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

CENTRAL BOHEMIA

BEROUN Harmonie Restaurant /hzf ||

Na Ostrove 816, 266 01. Tel 311 713 100. Road map B2.
Modern interior with light-coloured walls contrasting with the dark woodwork and furniture, making an excellent setting
for the meals served in here. Among many interesting dishes, the ones particularly worth recommending are asparagus
cocktail, onion soup, beef in wine sauce with croquettes and salad, and pancakes with ice cream.

DOB Zmecka Restaurace h ||

Zmek Dob, 263 01. Tel 318 520 525. Road map B3.
Situated in Dob Castle, this restaurant serves Czech and European cuisine, including an enormous mixed grill (beef
sirloin, pork loin, turkey, potatoes roasted with cheese, rice and thin pancakes). On tap is Staropramen beer, light
and dark. There is also a caf.

KARLTEJN Koruna Restaurant / ||

Karltejn 13, 267 18. Tel 311 681 465. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant is furnished in traditional style. Koruna offers Bohemian dishes that are not particularly
sophisticated, but really tasty. Especially good are scrambled eggs with caviar, onion soup, mixed grill with chips or
rice, and blueberry tart.

KARLTEJN Restaurant U Karla IV h ||

Karltejn 173, 267 18. Tel 311 513 496. Road map B2.
The restaurant stands only a few paces from the castle walls. It has three rooms and three terraces, plus a beer-
garden with a grill. Traditional Bohemian cuisine including fish, poultry and grilled food. It also puts on knights
tournaments, traditional dance shows and fireworks.

KOLN U ostrova 7f |

Sokolsk 10, 280 02. Tel 321 720 293. Road map B2.
This restaurant is scenically located on an island in the Labe river (the Elbe). Traditional Czech meat dishes, grilled and
spit-roasted, are cooked to order. Roast pork with dumplings and sauerkraut is considered the most popular Czech
dish. Budvar beer is served. The summer garden offers a lovely view of the river.

KOLN U Rabna / |

Karoliny Svtl 151, 280 02. Tel 321 724 463. Road map B2.
A restaurant in a welcoming pension. It has an interesting though ascetic interior and serves Bohemian, Moravian
and Italian cuisine; fish and steaks are particularly tasty. Highly professional service and congenial atmosphere. There
is also a wine bar.

KUTN HORA nsk restaurant /h7 |

Nmst Narodniho odboje 48, 284 01. Tel 327 514 151. Road map B2.
The restaurant specializes in Bohemian and Chinese cuisine; it serves mainly snacks, fish, vegetarian food and salads.
An excellent place for family celebrations and large social gatherings, it also has a child-friendly section of the menu
with smaller portions.

KUTN HORA Pivnice Daick /:7f ||

Rakova 8, 284 01. Tel 327 512 248. Road map B2.
This large, traditional beer hall/restaurant situated in the town centre offers flamboyant Bohemian cuisine (such
as baked ostrich steak in coconut cream sauce with garlic-parmesan potatoes), a large selection of desserts, plus
vodkas, wines and seven brands of draught beer. Guests are often treated to live music.

KUTN HORA U kamenn kany /h7 ||

Husova 140, 284 01. Tel 327 512 855. Road map B2.
The restaurant is set in a 15th-century Gothic house and serves traditional Bohemian cuisine. Prazdroj and Gambrinus
beer from Plze. The chefs specials include Vepov zek pana Bohka (Mr Boheks pork chops) and Malnsk
biftek (minute steak).

KUTN HORA U Vlaskho dvora h ||

28 ijna 511, 284 01. Tel 327 514 618. Road map B2.
A pleasant restaurant located on the ground floor of the hotel of the same name. Excellent Czech cuisine and
professional service. Large selection of Moravian wines. A garden with grill opens at the back of the hotel in the
summer, and there is also sunny outdoor seating at the front.

KUTN HORA U Zvonu / ||

Zvonask 286, 284 01. Tel 327 511 516. Road map B2.
Restaurant belonging to a small hotel situated in the town centre. It specializes in Bohemian cuisine, but the
menu also includes a choice of international dishes. A long list of local and foreign wines is on offer. The decor
is plain and slightly rustic.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 379

MLNK Restaurant Local /h:f ||

Hotel Ludmila, 276 01. Tel 315 622 419. Road map B2.
Simple, modern interior tastefully decorated in pastel shades, wood and rustic brickwork. Dishes worth
recommending include prawn cocktail, garlic soup, chicken with apricot and cheese, and chocolate fondue with
fruit. Plenty of drinks and snacks to choose from, too.

MLNK U atlavy h ||

Nmst Mru 30, 276 01. Tel 315 625 548. Road map B2.
The restaurant is conveniently situated in the town square. On offer is a good range of Bohemian and European
cuisine; the pizzas and the seafood dishes in particular are well worth a try. Draught beer and many other kinds of
alcohol and spirits.

MLAD BOLESLAV Stardust h ||

Staromstsk nmst 6, 293 01. Tel 326 326 222. Road map B2.
This friendly restaurant serving hearty food is conveniently situated in the town square. The menu is straightforward
and consists mainly of meat dishes, with a large selection of steaks and sauces. Budvar beer is on tap. A selection of
wines and spirits.

MLAD BOLESLAV Hotel Galatea /hz |||

Pod koupalitm 881, 293 06. Tel 326 721 920. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant, with its modern decor and wooden furniture, favours European cuisine. Large and varied menu
includes black caviar on toast with lemon, home-made goulash, grilled breast of chicken with herbs, apple pie with
ice cream and whipped cream.

MLAD BOLESLAV La Romantica / |||

Vinina 1343, 293 01. Tel 326 734 054. Road map B2.
A restaurant serving an appetizing variety of Mediterranean dishes. The setting is interesting partly within the rock
under the church. Excellent seafood and salads. Very tasty Parma ham with melon, and a refreshing tzatziki. Good
selection of wines.

MNICHOVO HRADIT Podzmeck restaurace ||

Arnoldova 91, 295 01. Tel 326 773 091. Road map B2.
This good-value and serviceable restaurant is centrally situated in Mnichovo Hradit, close to the castle. Inside, the
walls are hung with old views of castles. It distinguishes itself by its friendly service, tasty Czech cuisine (over 150
different dishes are on offer) and attractive prices.

NELAHOZEVES Zmek Nelahozeves /h |||

Zmek Nelahozeves. Tel 315 709 111. Road map B2.

Set in an impressive Renaissance castle, this restaurant has a good choice for a quick lunch stop, but is equally
pleasant for passing a summer afternoon over cold snacks and hot dishes. A large selection of drinks includes
Roudnice wine and Lobkowicz beer.

PODBRADY Balada h ||

Jiho nmst 7/2, 290 01. Tel 325 610 361. Road map B2.
Furnished in traditional Bohemian style, this restaurant serves a menu dominated by European and local cuisine.
Try traditional Czech dishes, such as fried Camembert served with cranberries. Hermelin is a local cheese (similar to
Camembert) from Sedlany that is prepared as part of various dishes. A large selection of beers is available.

PBRAM Modr Hrozen / ||

Nmst T G Masaryka 143, 261 01. Tel 318 628 007. Road map B3.
The interior of this hotel restaurant, with its rich stucco wall decoration, resembles a palace banqueting hall, but the
food served in here is simple, unsophisticated and extremely tasty. The dishes worth recommending include small
vegetarian pancakes, broth with noodles, fried fish fillets, and fruits of the forest goblet.

PBRAM Restaurace Zlat Soudek : ||

Nmst T G Masaryka 98, 261 01. Tel 318 623 245. Road map B3.
A lively restaurant with 150 seats, that mainly caters for families with children. It has a decent menu, specializing
in fish, poultry and pork dishes. The fruit goblet is worth ordering. In summer some tables are set out on the
pleasant terrace.

ROUDNICE NAD LABEM U Petrk 7 ||

Nerudova 35, 413 01. Tel 416 837 346. Road map B3.
A traditional restaurant with a long history located right in the town centre. Good basic Bohemian food is on offer;
set menus and dishes la carte. Beer is well kept in the cellar, and there is a choice of Staropramen beers as well as
several others; Czech wines. Popular with locals.

SLAN Hotel Hejtmansk Dvr, Atrium Restaurant /h: ||

Masarykovo nmst 114, 274 01. Tel 312 527 110. Road map B2.
Restaurant in a beautiful atrium, with a glass roof providing additional illumination; lots of natural greenery. Bohemian
and international cuisine. Typical, tasty dishes include salade Nioise, potato soup with wild mushrooms and croutons,
or Wiener schnitzel with potatoes and lemon.
380 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SOUTH BOHEMIA

ERVEN LHOTA erven Lhota Restaurant /h |||

erven Lhota 6, 378 21 Kardaova eice. Tel 384 384 305. Road map B3.
This restaurant, situated directly opposite the erven Lhota Castle, offers light meals of international cuisine, all
served with an imaginative variety of sauces. Here you can order vegetarian dishes, as well as delicious fish and meat
dishes.

ESK BUDJOVICE Hotel Klika / ||

Hroznova 25, 370 01. Tel 387 318 171. Road map B3.
A hotel restaurant whose interior resembles an old inn. The food is good, straightforward and traditional, in keeping
with the decor: cheese with olives, beef stew with fried dumplings, pork fillet with pepper and fried potatoes, and
cinnamon cake with cream.

ESK BUDJOVICE Pizzeria Regina 7 ||

Krajinska 41, 370 01. Tel 386 350 999. Road map B3.
A new, stylish restaurant and pizzeria right in the town centre in the Hotel Ztkv Dm. Sensational salads, excellent
pizzas and pastas, but also steaks. A separate area has been set aside for non-smokers, and there are tables outside
in warm weather.

ESK BUDJOVICE Potrefen husa IX /hz7 ||

esk 66, 370 01. Tel 387 420 560. Road map B3.
Restaurant/beer-hall serving Staropramen and Hoegaarden beers, as well as several Belgian brands. Divided into two
parts, the main bar and the pub. The chefs specials include grilled chicken legs and neck of pork. A large terrace
overlooks the river.

ESK BUDJOVICE Hotel U Soln Brny /h |||

Radnin 11, 370 01. Tel 386 354 121. Road map B3.
The interior of this modern hotel restaurant is hung with tapestries and paintings. It serves international cuisine with
strong French accents: onion soup with cheese, roast halibut with rosemary, hot raspberries with raspberry
ice cream.

ESK BUDJOVICE Life is Dream /hz |||

Knsk 330/31, 370 01. Tel 733 609 225. Road map B3.
The emphasis here is on modern cuisine with unusual combinations, making for a gourmet experience in the
intimate atmosphere of a medieval burghers house. The wine cellar offers 50 different wines, and Budweiser
Budvar is also served. Pets are welcome.

ESK BUDJOVICE Restaurant Gourmet Symphony / ||||

Nmst Premysla Otakara II 28, 370 01. Tel 381 601 601. Road map B3.
Hotel restaurant situated on the ground floor, with a charming view of the town square. Stylish interior with a
historic ceiling. The menu is dominated by Bohemian dishes, such as potato soup and roast neck of pork with
sauerkraut and dumplings but the international cuisine on offer is also excellent.

ESK KRUMLOV Katakomby /: ||

Nmst Svornosti 12, 381 01. Tel 380 772 563. Road map B3.
The restaurant of the Old Inn Hotel offers excellent Bohemian food grilled on a wood fire. It is set in the medieval
13th-century catacombs. Draught beers, light and dark, including some from a local brewery. Large selection of
other alcoholic drinks.

ESK KRUMLOV Bl Pan /f |||

Soukenick 42, 381 01. Tel 380 711 977. Road map B3.
The restaurant is in the historic city centre, close to the town square. It is set in one of the oldest buildings in town,
dating from 1460. The dining room features an old wooden ceiling. A stylish wine bar is located in the cellar.
Particularly worth recommending is the garlic soup with cheese served in a hollowed-out loaf.

ESK KRUMLOV Hacienda Mexicana / |||

Lineck 42, 381 01. Tel 380 712 852. Road map B3.
One of several Mexican chain restaurants in the Czech Republic, it occupies a 15th-century building with Mexican
interior decor and South American cuisine. The food is tasty and hearty and the atmosphere lively and very child
friendly. Salsa sounds in the background.

ESK KRUMLOV Gourmet Restaurant Le Jardin / ||||

Latrn 77, 381 01. Tel 380 720 177. Road map B3.
The solemn atmosphere of the interior, with monastery vaults filled with warm light, creates an unforgettable impression.
Added to this is an international cuisine with French accents, such as asparagus in milk with rosemary dumplings, wild
Norwegian salmon fillet in Barnaise sauce, hot marzipan, and strawberries in vanilla sauce.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 381

ESK KRUMLOV Restaurant Don Julius / ||||

Nmst Svornosti 11, 381 01. Tel 380 712 310. Road map B3.
A witty, unconventional interior with an open hearth and walls decorated with a relief of the town square. From its
large selection of Bohemian and international dishes it is worth trying tomatoes stuffed with cheese salad, potato
soup, Wiener schnitzel, and tart with berries and whipped cream.

JINDICHV HRADEC Frankv Dvr /: ||

Jeminsk 125/4, 377 01. Tel 777 996 666. Road map B3.
The interior, although modern, is decorated in the style of an old inn, with exposed rafters. The cuisine is mainly
Bohemian and Hungarian, including sheep cheese soup, carp with onion and mushrooms, and cake with fruit and
whipped cream.

JINDICHV HRADEC Grand Hotel Restaurant /h ||

Nmst Mru 165, 377 01. Tel 384 361 252. Road map B3.
The restaurants interior seems to have been transported from an Italian palazzo. The cuisine is obviously
Mediterranean, but with the addition of Bohemian dishes. Delicious broccoli soup with croutons, pasta with ham
and cheese sauce, fruit salad.

JINDICHV HRADEC U Papouk /hz7 ||||

Na Pkopech 188/II, 377 01. Tel 384 362 235. Road map B3.
Restaurant with a terrace, in a pension of the same name, set in the town centre. It serves Bohemian, Italian, Chinese
and Mexican dishes with a non-standard selection of vegetables. Here, you can spend a delightful evening by candle-
light, drinking excellent wines from the house cellar.

JINDICHV HRADEC Zlathusa (Golden Goose Restaurant) / ||||

Nmst Miru 141, 377 01. Tel 384 362 320. Road map B3.
The Golden Goose offers top-class Bohemian cuisine and fish dishes. Particularly worth recommending are chicken
cocktail with pineapple, Viennese soup with sesame oil and bacon, rump steak with mushroom sauce and grilled
aubergines, and pancake with fruit.

PSEK U Zlatho bka ||||

Kocnova 1, 397 01. Tel 382 221 286. Road map B3.
A pleasant restaurant with pastel decor, situated opposite the city walls, with a view of the Putimska Gate. A large
selection of Bohemian and European dishes is on offer. Grilled food is served in the summer. Friendly service and a
romantic atmosphere.

PRACHATICE Indian Restaurant Tandoor h7 ||

Horn 165, Prachatice 383 01. Tel 388 310 618. Road map B3.
Suitable for diners who enjoy particularly spicy food, Indian Restaurant Tandoor offers a wide selection of vegetarian
dishes. The restaurant is no-smoking, so a visit here is suitable for families with children. Children will also enjoy the
selection of Indian cakes.

PRACHATICE Restaurace a pivnice hotelu Parkan /hz: ||

Vn 51, 383 01. Tel 388 311 424. Road map B3.
This restaurant is situated in the basement of the Hotel Parkan. In its pleasant dining room you can enjoy excellent
Bohemian, Moravian, traditional old-Czech or international cuisine. The chefs speciality is fish dishes. Smoking is
prohibited during lunch hours.

PRACHATICE Restaurace Bocelli h ||

Velk nmst 39, 383 01. Tel 721 719 692. Road map B3.
A cosy and well-situated restaurant in the town centre offering superbly prepared Italian cuisine and a large selection
of Italian wines. Here, you can enjoy a choice of excellent pizza, spaghetti or risotto, served in a congenial
atmosphere.

STACHY Restaurace Hotel Churov /hz ||

Zadov 13, 384 73. Tel 388 428 107. Road map B3.
This restaurant is located in the Churov Hotel in the umava mountain range. Gourmets will appreciate its
Bohemian and international cuisine. The wine list offers a large selection of wines from all over the world. In
summer you can sit on the terrace and enjoy the magnificent views.

STRAKONICE U Madly h |||

Velk nmst 53, 386 01. Tel 383 323 158. Road map B3.
This simple and elegant restaurant, situated in the town square, is decorated with a British feel. A large selection of
Bohemian and international dishes are on offer. The atmospheric wine bar in the cellar serves good wines and 19
brands of beer.

TBOR Hotel Relax U Drsu /h:f ||

Varavsk 2708, 390 05. Tel 381 263 905. Road map B3.
A hotel restaurant, with cosy (albeit traditional) decor, serving Czech and international cuisine. The menu includes
cheese dumplings, garlic soup, fried carp with fried potatoes, and honey gateau with nuts and cream. Outdoor
seating is available in summer.
382 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

TBOR Goldie Bar-Restaurant /hz7 |||

ikovo nmest 20, 390 02. Tel 380 900 901. Road map B3.
With its high ceilings, large windows, mirrors, sculptures and works by local craftsmen and famous Czech artists such
as Olbam Zoubek, Goldie offers a great experience, whether you choose to sit in the Atrium, Caf-Bar, Gallery or
main restaurant. The menus feature Czech and international cuisine and the wine list is extensive.

TBOR Hotel Kapitl /h:f |||

9. kvtna 617, 390 01. Tel 381 256 096. Road map B3.
Hotel Kapitl restaurant generates a tranquil homely atmosphere, and the food served here adds to the enjoyment.
Among the choices are tomatoes stuffed with cheese salad, soup with meat and dumplings, turkey steak stuffed
with ham and cheese, and banana in chocolate.

TEBO Formanka (at Hotel Zlot Hvzda) h ||

Masarykovo nmst 107, 379 01. Tel 384 757 111. Road map B3.
A restaurant situated in the Zlat Hvzda Hotel in the town centre. Food is cooked to traditional Bohemian recipes
and includes delicious fish and game. Draught beer is straight from the Formakna brewery. Large selection of
alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks.

TEBO upina /h7 |||

Valy 155, 379 01. Tel 384 721 149. Road map B3.
The traditional fishing region of Southern Bohemia is reflected in the decor of this fish restaurant; nets hang from the
ceiling and down between the tables. The restaurant serves fresh, locally-caught fish; recommendations include the
carp with dill and mushroom sauce.

WEST BOHEMIA

CHEB U Cech h ||

Kamenn 28/203, 350 02. Tel 354 422 661. Road map A2.
A reliable restaurant set in the historic city centre, close to the town square. It offers well-prepared traditional
Bohemian cuisine and a selection of draught beers. Its very friendly staff help to create an excellent
atmosphere.

DOMALICE Konelsk enk h:z ||

Vodn 33, 334 01. Tel 379 720 222. Road map A3.
This small congenial restaurant in a Baroque building known as Konelsk enk is close to the town square. It
specializes in Italian cuisine, serving numerous types of pizza and other Italian dishes, as well as vegetarian variations.
Dogs are also welcome.

FRANTIKOVY LZN Ti Lilie /h ||||

Nrodn 3/10, 351 01. Tel 353 825 756. Road map A2.
Luxurious restaurant belonging to the resort hotel of the same name. It offers beautifully prepared Bohemian food,
on a set or la carte menu. Excellent game dishes are available, and there is a large selection of both alcoholic and
non-alcoholic drinks.

HOROVSK TN Zmeck Restaurace hz ||

Nmst Republiky 1, 346 01. Tel 379 423 483. Road map A3.
Located in the main square of this small town, the restaurant has a very pleasant, quiet and intimate atmosphere.
It serves traditional Bohemian dishes and a good choice of beers. The food is unsophisticated, but it is tasty and
reasonably priced.

KARLOVY VARY Potovn dvr /hf |||

Slovensk 2, 360 01. Tel 353 224 119. Road map A2.
This luxurious restaurant is located near the spa centre, in a restored building of a former 18th-century post inn.
It features a stylish interior with a wooden ceiling. Bohemian and European cuisines are prepared with taste and
imagination. Wine bar and garden pavilion.

KARLOVY VARY Restaurant Dvok /z ||||

Nov Louka 11, 360 01. Tel 353 102 111. Road map A2.
Modern, cosy interior decorated in warm colours. Bohemian and international cuisine. The most interesting items on
the menu include tuna and soy salad, roast rabbit with spring vegetables, and chocolate tart with orange and
banana ice cream.

KARLOVY VARY O.U. Grandrestaurant Pupp /hz ||||

Mrov nmst 2, 360 91. Tel 353 109 111. Road map A2.
A very elegant restaurant in the world-famous Grandhotel Pupp (see p352), with stylish decor based on stucco
wall decoration and light-coloured soft furnishings. Menu highlights include smoked fish served with balsamic
sauce, salmon cream soup, and roasted sea fish with jasmine rice, pepper and saffron.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 383

KLATOVY Harmonie /hzf |

Ndran 185/III, 339 01. Tel 376 358 312. Road map A3.
A small, stylish wine bar near the town centre, close to the bus station. It offers a wide selection of wines, both local
and international, and an excellent range of Bohemian cuisine. Although fully air-conditioned, it also offers a
separate room for non-smokers.

KLATOVY Restaurace Stelnice 7 ||

Prask 22, 339 01. Tel 376 322 366. Road map A3.
Located in the town centre, the restaurant is decorated with photographs and historic artifacts associated with beer-
making. It serves delicious Bohemian cuisine, complemented with Plze beer. A programme of music is presented
every night; you can also take to the dance floor. A pleasant garden is open in the summer.

KLATOVY Restaurace Tep h ||

Nmst Mru 151, 339 01. Tel 376 311 958. Road map A3.
Located in the historic town square, this comfortable restaurant offers a wide selection of Bohemian cuisine, as well
as two unique dishes prepared from sea fish and game. There is a choice of grilled food. All dishes are beautifully
prepared and presented.

LOKET Bl k /h ||

T.G. Masaryka 10, 357 33. Tel 352 685 002. Road map A2.
This elegant restaurant in the Bl k hotel serves Bohemian and European cuisine. Its spacious, leafy terrace has a
magnificent view over the Ohe valley and offers a relaxed evenings dining. It also has a lively tavern (open ThuSun
7pm3am).

MARINSKE LZN U Zlat koule /hf ||||

Nehrova 26, 353 01. Tel 354 624 455. Road map A2.
This elegant restaurant has the style of a romantic, cosy inn; it offers good quality food and drink. Traditional
Bohemian cuisine, set and la carte menus, all top-notch. It has a wide choice of fish and game dishes such as
venison with dumplings.

PLZE BW Hotel Panorama /h:z ||

V Lomech 11, 323 00. Tel 377 534 323. Road map A3.
A highly congenial interior decorated in warm colours, but with modern accents. The restaurant offers a very simple
menu with Bohemian and international cuisine, including ham with melon, hunters soup, meat fondue
accompanied by a large platter of vegetable salads, and tiramisu.

PLZE Hotel Central /h ||

Nmst Republiky 33, 301 00. Tel 377 226 757. Road map A3.
This modern, spacious restaurant decorated in pastel shades is one of the most popular in town. Among its many
dishes, highlights include home-made pt, hunters soup with beans and sausage, venison roulade cooked in wine,
fried potato dumpling, and baked ice cream with chocolate and cream.

PLZE Parkhotel Plze, Emporio Restaurant /h: ||

U Borskho parku 31, 320 04. Tel 378 772 977. Road map A3.
A warm, homely atmosphere has been achieved through carefully selected furniture and decor, which emphasize the
foods flavour: simple, yet delicious. The best includes chicken salad in mustard mayonnaise, bread filled with traditional
home-made Bohemian potato soup, chicken breast with courgettes, and gingerbread.

PLZE Restaurace umbera hz ||

Bezruova 14. Tel 377 322 436. Road map A3.

This restaurant dates back to the 1930s and traditionally serves excellent Gambrinus and Pilsner Urquell beers on tap
and quality meals. The menu is traditional Czech cuisine. You can try South American beef and a variety of
vegetarian specialities, as well. They also serve umbersk kenovka, a horseradish-flavoured vodka.

PLZE Restaurante bar de Tapas el Cid /hz |||

Kiikovy sady 1. Tel 377 224 595. Road map A3.

The El Cid restaurant is located in the centre of Pilsen, not far from the Square of the Republic. It specializes in rustic
Mediterranean, especially Spanish, cuisine. In 2010 it was on the Maurers Grand Restaurant Selection list of the best
and most interesting restaurants in the Czech Republic.

NORTH BOHEMIA

DEN Hotel Pension Jana /hz ||

Teplick 151, 405 05. Tel 412 544 571. Road map B2.
Pension Janas restaurant can seat 24 diners. The extensive menu includes venison and a selection of traditional
Czech dishes. They serve draught Pilsner Urquell and Gambrinus. There is a cosy fireplace, a terrace and a
playground for children in the garden.
384 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

DEN U pstavu h ||

Labsk nbei 669/2, 405 02. Tel 412 532 557. Road map B2.
Scenically located on the shores of the Labe, the restaurants decor is on a marine theme and includes ropes, nets,
anchors and ships wheels. It specializes in grilled dishes, particularly fish, of course, but also game. Ingredients are
all fresh and carefully prepared.

FRDLANT Snack Bar Nbytek /h ||

Nmst T.G. Masaryka 91, 464 01 Frdlant v echch. Tel 483 312 439. Road map B2.
Located on the main square of Frdlandt, this cosy restaurant offers dishes named after Czech and Slovak fairy tales.
The specialities are Krakono (baked broccoli with vegetables and cream sauce) and Lamelezo, or iron breaker,
(steak with asparagus, pepper and mushroom sauce).

LIBEREC Ananda hz7 ||

Frdlantsk 210, 460 01. Tel 606 601 122. Road map B2.
Situated between the town hall and Varsava cinema, this is a light and airy space, one of a handful of Czech
vegetarian restaurants. The chef does not even use eggs. Besides soups and main courses it also serves excellent
breakfasts. It also has facilities for the disabled.

LIBEREC Bl mln /hz ||

t. Svobody 295/30, 460 01. Tel 482 750 863. Road map B2.
Restaurant with a caf, situated on the outskirts of the town centre, in the Stary Harcov district, on the shores of an
artificial lake. Modern interior includes a huge tank with piranha. It specializes in game, lamb and fish. Also on offer
are Italian dishes and grilled food. A large selection of Czech and foreign wines.

LIBEREC Grand Restaurant /h: ||

Grand Hotel Zlat Lev, Gutebergova 126/3, 460 01. Tel 485 256 700. Road map B2.
Stylish, intimate interior, lavishly decorated with fabrics, their textures and vibrant colours accentuated by candelabra
lighting. The menu at this hotel restaurant includes salmon caviar; Russian borsch; Golden Lion beef steak, and
chocolate cake.

LIBEREC Rybsk bata ||

Masarykova 29, 460 01. Tel 482 710 177. Road map B2.
This restaurant, near the zoo, on the shores of Labuthio Lake, offers the best fish dishes in town, including fresh-
water and sea varieties. Carp, trout, catfish and salmon are all cooked in a variety of ways and styles. Particularly
worth recommending are Atlantic salmon medallions on herbs, in cream sauce.

LIBEREC U Sever h ||

5. kvtna 350/52, 460 01. Tel 485 105 321. Road map B2.
A small, family restaurant with friendly service, and relaxing ambience, offering tasty Bohemian cuisine and Moravian
wines. In the summer tables are set outside; there is also an outdoor grill. The chefs special is the esk tali
(Czech plate).

LITOMCE U zlatho baanta : ||

Mrov nmst 13/21, 412 01. Tel/Fax 416 732 454. Road map B2.
The restaurant is in a small historic house, right in the town centre, with an atmospheric, vaulted interior.
Traditional Bohemian cuisine, including game. The delicious cakes and bread are baked on the premises. The only
non-smoking restaurant on the town square.

LOUNY Na Hradbch /hz ||

Hilbertova 62, 440 01. Tel 415 658 349. Road map B2.
The Na Hradbch restaurant is situated on the ground floor of the eponymous hotel. It serves a wide range of
Czech and foreign specialities particularly Japanese dishes. Chef Petr Koubek offers Beef Steak Harley D and Steak
Karel Gott with three cheeses.

LOUNY U Svatho Huberta / ||

Praska 105, 440 01. Tel 415 652 072. Road map B2.
Situated in the centre of town, the dining room of this small, friendly restaurant is simply furnished with wooden
furniture and white tablecloths. The menu includes delicacies such as deer carpaccio with grilled vegetables and
creamed goats cheese starters, followed by buck medallions filled with camembert and cranberries.

OSEK Restaurace ern Orel ||

Vilov 18, 417 05. Tel 417 837 082. Road map B2.
A slightly unusual restaurant with stone-and-wood interior decor that is reminiscent of Alpine mountain inns. The
menu is dominated by Bohemian cuisine, but you may also wish to try its excellent seafood and fish. Large selection
of alcoholic drinks.

TEPLICE Gurman Restaurant /hz ||

U Zmku 1991/8, 415 01. Tel 417 535 423. Road map B2.
Conveniently located in the centre of the city of Teplice, Gurman Restaurant nevertheless has parking. The restaurant
offers a varied selection of Czech and international culinary specialities. You can also choose from a wide range of
coffees from the global collection of Caf Corsini.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 385

TEPLICE Restaurant Prince /hz7 |||

Hotel Prince de Ligne, Zmeck nmst 136, 415 01. Tel 417 514 111. Road map B2.
The Prince de Ligne hotel restaurant offers a selection of Czech and international cuisine with modern touches in a
pleasant and stylish ambience, along with a wide selection of Czech and Moravian wines. Specialities include salmon
in butter with fine Hollandaise sauce and green asparagus, and snails au gratin in hot sauce on toast.

ST NAD LABEM Frova Bata h:z7 ||

Star 1094/76, 401 34. Tel 475 221 336. Road map B2.
Situated in the town centre, this restaurant offers a wide choice of tasty Bohemian specialities. Vegetarians will also
find various dishes to their liking. There is a room reserved for non-smokers. The summer garden has an open-air
grill, and there is a childrens play area outside.

ST NAD LABEM Restaurace ve Stedn Evrop z7f ||

Lidick nmst 7, 401 34. Tel 732 327 233. Road map B2.
An elegant restaurant with a pleasant interior, right in the centre of town. It offers set menus as well as la carte
dishes, with a choice of Bohemian and international cuisine. A truly hospitable venue, it stays open until the last
guest leaves.

ATEC U Hada h ||

Nmst Svobody 155, 438 24. Tel 415 711 000. Road map A2.
A small hotel restaurant specializing in Bohemian and European cuisine, situated right in the town centre. The
decor is stylish, with great attention to detail and wonderful fresh flowers. Menu includes a vast selection of
salads, steaks and fish dishes.

EAST BOHEMIA

ERN DL Aurum /h ||

Hotel Aurum, 543 44. Tel 499 435 169. Road map C2.
A snug restaurant in the Aurum Hotel; in the morning it serves breakfast to hotel residents. In the summer you can
have a meal on the terrace, and enjoy a lovely view. A great variety of food, mainly Bohemian cuisine, and drinks.
There is an alehouse in the same hotel.

DVR KRLOV Hospoda u Svobodnch pn h ||

Nmst T G Masaryka 84, 544 01. Tel 603 104 011. Road map C2.
A tiny restaurant set in a small historic town house, in the main square, serving an interesting choice of Bohemian
and European cuisine. Particularly recommended is the soup served in hollowed-out bread. Highly efficient service
and a quiet, intimate atmosphere.

HAVLKV BROD Rusticana h: ||

Na Vslun 1814, 580 01. Tel 569 425 932. Road map C3.
The restaurant offers Balkan cuisine, including fish, grilled steaks, pasta, meats and salads, as well as the more usual,
but nonetheless high quality, traditional Bohemian cuisine. The chefs special is the roast duck. In summer you can
eat in the garden.

HAVLKV BROD vejk Restaurant /h7f ||

Jihlavsk 1985, 580 01. Tel 569 496 200. Road map C3.
A smart restaurant in the Slunce hotel. The interiors are furnished in Empire style, with period furniture and attention
to the smallest details. The walls are hung with stained glass and paintings depicting Good Soldier vejk and the
Emperor Franz Josef. Bohemian cuisine, and Pilsner beer. Theres a room for non-smokers.

HRADEC KRLOV Danup Restaurant h ||

SA 353, 500 03. Tel 495 511 026. Road map B2.
An inexpensive restaurant on the edge of the Old Town, situated in a modernized Art Nouveau building. Traditional
Bohemian cuisine, fish, poultry, game and grilled food. A good selection of vegetable salads. The chefs special is
stuffed beef sirloin.

HRADEC KRLOV Na Hrad h ||

Velk nmst, pitlsk 175, 500 02. Tel 495 581 941. Road map B2.
A classic Czech pub with long wooden tables and benches and rustic artifacts adorning the walls. It serves Bohemian
and Moravian cuisine, also old Czech dishes. You can pop in for a quick lunch, or for an excellent leisurely dinner.
The place is popular with students.

HRADEC KRLOV Stedovk Krma (Medieval Pub) h7 ||

Velk nmst 145, 500 03. Tel 495 214 214. Road map B2.
Staff wear period costume and the menu caters to all levels of medieval society, from supper for the poor traveller
to meals fit for a medieval monarch. Dishes are served on stone plates and there is an open fireplace. Pets are
allowed. Children get free ice cream.
386 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

HRADEC KRLOV U Krlovny Eliky /h7 ||

Mal nmst 117, 500 02. Tel 495 518 052. Road map B2.
This hotel restaurant has an idiosyncratic interior, with brick-arched ceilings, simple yet cosy. The menu has some-
thing on offer for everybody; there is carpaccio of salmon with herbs, soup with meat and dumplings, trout fried in
butter and fruits of the forest in dry sparkling wine.

JIN Restaurace U Andla h ||

Valdtejnovo nmst 34, 506 01. Tel 493 533 023. Road map B2.
This restaurant set in a Baroque house in Jin town square has a simple, unadorned interior and lovely views over the
park. The menu is extensive, and one of the chefs specials is delicious roast duck served with knedlky (dumplings)
and salad. Staropramen beer is served.

KUKS U Zlatho slunce h ||

544 43. Tel 608 352 734. Road map C2.

Established in 1699 by the founder of the Kuks spa, Count Sporck, this restaurant has been in business non-stop for
over 300 years. It offers an array of dishes, salads and desserts on set menus. In summer it also serves food la carte.
Closed Mon-Tue. Out of season it opens only during weekends.

LIPNICE NAD SZAVOU U esk Koruny /: ||

Lipnice nad Szavou 55, 582 32. Tel 569 486 126. Road map C2.
It was to this pub that Jaroslav Haek, the author of The Good Soldier vejk adventures, used to come, to sit, drink
and write. But this is not the only attraction of this place; it also offers delicious Bohemian cuisine cooked to old
recipes; added to this is the fine Plze beer.

LITOMYL Zlat Hvzda /h7 ||

Smetanovo nmst 84, 570 01. Tel 461 615 338. Road map C2.
This elegant hotel restaurant in the town centre has been visited by many political celebrities, including Vclav Havel.
Bohemian and European cuisine are served. Specialities include stew with wild mushrooms, omelette with bacon and
artichokes, and roast duck with dumplings. Formal dress code.

NCHOD Hotel Hron /hz7 ||

Purkyova 436, 547 01. Tel 491 520 374. Road map C2.
This restaurant is part of the Hotel Hron, a renovated historic building that used to be a private sanatorium. The
restaurant can seat 88 people, with a terrace that seats an additional 40 people. Specialities include Eisbein (roast
pork knuckle) and grilled butterfish.

PARDUBICE Restaurace Bazalka /hz7 ||

Perntnsk 15, 532 02. Tel 466 513 100. Road map C2.
This restaurant is listed among the 100 best in the Czech Republic. Besides Bohemian specialities it serves dishes from
all over the world (mainly Balkan, Mediterranean and South American food); excellent grills and fish. A separate
room is provided for non-smokers.

PARDUBICE Restaurace Rybrna /:7f ||

Bulharsk 1784, 532 10. Tel 466 614 056. Road map C2.
The restaurant is scenically located in a park on the lakeshore just to the east of the Old Town. Smart and imaginative
interior includes a fish tank, leaving no doubt about which food is the speciality here. Organizes grills and country
music evenings.

RYCHNOV NAD KNNOU Hotel Panorama /h:zf ||

Masarykova 941, 516 01. Tel 494 534 619. Road map C2.
Boldly designed, cosy yet classic interior with a view of the mountains. Serves European cuisine. Particularly worth
trying are tomatoes stuffed with chicken salad served with toast, mushroom soup, pork loin stuffed with hot red
chilli peppers and apple pie with whipped cream.

PINDLERV MLN Harmony /h7f |||

Bedichov 106, 543 51. Tel 499 469 111. Road map C2.
In the congenial surroundings and pleasant atmosphere of this hotel restaurant, with its excellent service, you can
enjoy delicious Bohemian and international cuisine, as well as top-class wines. Leave some room for the
mouthwatering home-made desserts and ice creams.

SRCH Na Vslun /h:z7 ||

Na Vslun 236, 532 52. Tel 466 414 459. Road map C2.
This restaurant near Pardubice has pleasant modern decor and serves excellent food; grilled meat and steaks are
particularly recommended. The menu also includes seafood and vegetarian dishes and there is a choice of dishes
for children.

TRUTNOV Restaurace u Kostela :f ||

Kosteln, 541 01. Tel 603 481 208. Road map B2.
Restaurant and caf with modern interior furnishings, located close to the Baroque church. The restaurant (upstairs)
is reached by wooden stairs. Dishes worth recommending include onion soup with toast and chicken breast on crisp
vegetables. In summer, meals are also served in the small garden.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 387

NORTH MORAVIA AND SILESIA

BOUZOV Hotel U Cimbury restaurant /h ||

Bouzov 15, 783 25. Tel 585 346 491. Road map C3.
A small congenial hotel restaurant decorated with hunting trophies. U Cimbury serves excellent Bohemian
and international cuisine, and offers both set and la carte menus. The restaurant specializes in simple country
fare, using fresh, local ingredients.

JESENK Avail Tosca /hz, ||

Dukelsk 203, 790 01. Tel 774 786 223. Road map C2.
In addition to the original pizza, pasta and salads, Avail Toscas menu offers a variety of Mediterranean dishes, all
prepared with fresh ingredients. There is also a wide range of desserts, including sweet crpes and ice cream
sundaes. The no-smoking environment is suitable for families.

JESENK Kov vrch h ||

Za Pilou 6, 790 01. Tel 584 402 063. Road map C2.
This huntsman-style restaurant is housed in the oldest building in the district, reconstructed after a fire of 1994. It serves
mouthwatering local cuisine; the chefs specialities include roast duck, and saddle of wild boar in cream, with
cowberries. Self-service bar with a large selection of salads.

NOV JIN Praha Hotel-restaurant h ||

Lidick 6, 741 01. Tel/Fax 556 701 229. Road map D3.
An elegant restaurant with stylish Art Nouveau interiors. Bohemian and European cuisine. Well prepared food,
beautifully presented. Friendly, smiling staff. There is an outdoor terrace open in the summer months, and a well-
stocked cocktail bar.

OLOMOUC Caesar /7 ||

Horn nmst-radnice, 771 00. Tel 585 229 287. Road map C3.
Restaurant-caf, situated in Gothic rooms of the historic town hall alongside an interesting commercial gallery.
Top-notch Italian cuisine and a large selection of alcoholic drinks, coffee and other beverages. The caf garden
overlooks the Olomouc town square.

OLOMOUC Hospoda U Denky ||

Masarykova 3, 779 00. Tel 777 196 755. Road map C3.
The restaurant is set in a somewhat gloomy cellar with a fireplace. Serves Bohemian specialities, including steak
and chicken dishes. The choice of beers is good, with Velkopopovicky Kozel and Pilsner Urquell among others.
There is a TV in the bar area.

OLOMOUC Hotel Gemo /hz7f ||

Pavelkova 22, 772 00. Tel 585 222 115. Road map C3.
Modern yet cosy interior; its quiet decor includes some Art Nouveau elements. Excellent food, varied and superbly
flavoured; includes vegetables with mozzarella, basil and olive oil, cream of mushroom soup, salmon fillet in cream
sauce with pasta, and baked vanilla ice cream.

OPAVA U Krbu / ||

Masask 3, 746 01. Tel 553 613 488. Road map D2.
Located in the historic town centre, this restaurant offers a large selection of Bohemian and European dishes from
cabbage soup to frogs legs. It also has a Mexican kitchen with specialities such as burritos and Tex-Mex chilli con
carne. Salads and desserts are both substantial.

OSTRAVA U Dvok /h: ||

Hladnovsk 19, 710 00. Tel 596 245 454. Road map D2.
A huntsman-style restaurant serving classic Bohemian and Moravian cuisine, and old-Czech fare. Game is on
the menu, including rabbit and pheasant, and the chefs special is roast duck. There is a large selection of grilled
dishes, particularly poultry and fish.

OSTRAVA Comedor Mexicano /hz |||

Ndran 305/5, 702 00. Ostrava Moravsk Tel 595 133 715. Road map D2.
This restaurant offers beautifully presented Mexican cuisine with excellent salads and pasta. Sirloin steak is a house
speciality. The wine list includes wines from Moravia and the rest of the world. They also serve spirits, including rum
and, of course, tequila.

OSTRAVA Clarion Congress Hotel /hz ||||

Zkrcen 2703, 700 30. Tel 596 702 111. Road map D2.
The cosy interiors of this modern hotel restaurant open onto the surrounding greenery. International dishes with French
and Italian accents include beef medallions with blue cheese and salad, cream of asparagus with ham dumplings and
whipped cream, spaghetti with frutti di mare, and omelette with fruit, cinnamon and sugar.
388 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

PEROV Hotel Jana /h: |||

Koliby 2, 750 05. Tel 581 204 466. Road map D3.
Located in a modern hotel with an interesting central spiral atrium. The chef is dedicated to indulging all customers
gastronomic tastes, so the menu is large and varied, with choices such as ham with melon, sauerkraut soup with
sausages, turkey fillet with almond stuffing, and fruit salad.

PIBOR Mexico h ||

Frenttsk 166, 742 58. Tel 556 725 831. Road map D3.
This Mexican restaurant lies along the main road that runs through Pibor. Meals are served at the fast food bar, or
brought to the table. The decor is rustic with Mexican touches, and there are booths, which give it a cosy feel. Some
Bohemian specialities also make it on to the menu.

SOUTH MORAVIA

BRNO ern Medvd h ||

Jakubsk nmst 1. Tel 542 210 054. Road map C3.

An elegant restaurant in the historic town centre, close to the main square. Vast selection of Bohemian specialities;
also French cuisine. The wine list offers mainly Moravian varieties, but there are also some French, Italian and South
African wines.

BRNO Gourmand /hz ||

Josefsk 14. Tel 542 211 030. Road map C3.

Located in the city centre, the restaurants decor evokes the end of the 19th century. Bohemian and Moravian cuisine,
with lovingly prepared dishes such as eel with garlic, rosemary, sage, thyme, wine and cream. Extensive menu of
steaks, chicken, fish, and seasonal salads, with some vegetarian dishes. A large selection of wines.

BRNO Havana Restaurant /h7 ||

Masarova 9, 628 00 Brno-Lien. Tel 544 238 380. Road map C3.
Cuban restaurant, where you can enjoy Caribbean food, such as pollo frito a la Criola (fried Creole chicken), as well as
local and international cuisine. The decor is spectacular, with the building made to look like a crumbling Havana
mansion complete with pillars and tropical plants.

BRNO Moravsk Chalupa h ||

Kkovskho 47, 603 73. Tel 543 143 100. Road map C3.
An unusual restaurant occupying a rustic building the name means Moravian Cottage within the Voron
hotel complex. It serves Bohemian and Moravian cuisines, and the best-known brands of beer. There is a beer
tavern and a wine bar in the cellar plus an adjoining bowling alley.

BRNO Restaurant Bugatti /h ||

Lidick 23, 659 89. Tel 541 321 207. Road map C3.
The modern decor of this hotel restaurant has a striking gold and blue colour scheme. Particularly recommended
is peach filled with chicken salad, Peking soup, breast of duck in saffron sauce with wild mushrooms, and hot apple
pie with vanilla cream and blueberries.

BRNO Baroko /h |||

Orl 17, 602 00. Tel 544 213 845. Road map C3.
A stylish restaurant in the Old Town, housed in a building of the old Minorite monastery established in 1230. The
rooms are decorated with Baroque sculptures. The themed menu uses various ecclesiastical names for dishes, and
the food includes Bohemian delicacies and some vegetarian choices. Moravian wines are on offer.

BRNO La Rossa /hz |||

Sportovn 2a. Tel 541 638 344. Road map C3.

Located in the Bobycentrum Hotel, this pizzeria serves 18 varieties of pizza, plus pasta, gnocchi, fish, steaks and
salads. There is a wide choice of Moravian, Italian and world wines and beer enthusiasts will be delighted with the
famous Pilsner Urquell beer on draft. Excellent home-made desserts.

BRNO Restaurant Prominent /h:z ||||

Kkovskho 20, 603 00. Tel 543 122 111. Road map C3.
This modern hotel restaurant has a warm Scandinavian-style interior. Menu includes breast of duck slices served cold
with apricots and roasted pistachio, chicken broth with home-made dumplings and minced duck liver, roast goose
with red and white cabbage and dumplings, and baked apple en croute, with marzipan filling.

JIHLAVA Amazonia Club Caf /z7 ||

Husova 26/1643, 586 01. Tel 567 300 280. Road map C3.
The interior decor of this unusual restaurant has been inspired by ancient Latin American culture. Serves international
cuisine and vegetarian dishes as part of an extensive menu, which also has a section for children. A large selection of
beers and wines adds to the convivial atmosphere.

Key to Price Guide see p372 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 389

KROM Bouek Hotel Restaurant /hf ||||

Velk nmst 108, 767 01. Tel 602 351 620. Road map D3.
This hotel restaurant is situated in the historic town centre. It serves Bohemian and international specialities. In
summer there are tables outside in the arcaded hotel entrance with a wonderful view of the town square and the
castle. Live music and dancing on Fridays and Saturdays. Large selection of wines.

NEDVDICE Pod Perntejnem h ||||

Nedvdice 76, 592 62. Tel 775 073 633. Road map C3.
Situated close to Perntejn Castle, this restaurant of long-standing traditions was established in the early 1920s. The
well-prepared food is mainly Bohemian, with dishes such as spicy pork wrapped in a potato pancake, and grilled
trout. Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Perntejn beers. Closed on Monday.

SLAVKOV U BRNA Sokolsk dm f ||||

Palackho nmst 75, 684 01. Tel 544 221 103. Road map C3.
The restaurant belongs to a hotel of the same name, situated in the centre of Slavkov. Bohemian and international
dishes with grilled food a speciality. An open-air terrace has seating in the summer. In the adjoining pub there is a
good choice of draught beer.

TEL Restaurace U Zacharie /h |||

Nmst Zacharie z Hradce 33. Tel 567 243 672. Road map B3.
A large, elegant restaurant in a hotel in the town square. The high-ceilinged, airy indoor restaurant spreads over two
rooms, while there is outdoor seating overlooking the square in the summer. Bohemian and European dishes are on
the menu. The wine list offers a large selection of Moravian wines.

TINOV Loria h ||||

Brnnsk 6, 666 01. Tel 549 410 335. Road map C3.
The extensive premises include a beer hall and a restaurant on the ground floor, and a wine bar with restaurant in
the basement. On the menu is a variety of grilled dishes. The tasty food is accompanied by a large selection of Mora-
vian wines.

TEB Restaurace Don /h7 ||

Modnova 599, Teb-Novdvory. Tel 568 821 016. Road map C3.
A large restaurant set in an amusement centre. Here you can play billiards and mini-golf indoors. Steaks and pizzas
feature heavily on the menu, and the chefs specials include pork ribs and tuna steak cooked with garlic. Ideal for
families or groups.

TEB Grand Hotel /h ||||

Karlovo nmst 5, 674 01. Tel 568 848 560. Road map B3.
The Grand Hotel restaurant is situated in the town centre. Its attractions include Moravian evenings with wine tasting
and sampling of traditional local dishes. The regular menu is mainly Bohemian cuisine. The decor is modern and
slightly cold.

R NAD SZAVOU Radnin Restaurace /h ||

Nmst Republiky 24, 591 01. Tel 566 623 188. Road map C3.
A pleasant restaurant in the middle of the town. Located in the basement of the old town hall, it has an interesting
history and was at one time the local prison. It serves Bohemian and European dishes. Outdoor tables are available
in the summer. Friendly service.

ZLN Restaurance a Diskotka FLIP hz ||

Gahurova 5265, 760 01. Tel 577 210 028. Road map D2.
This restaurant and disco club offers a selection of 28 different pizza toppings. There are very good vegetarian
options and a menu of various kinds of pasta, cheese, and 15 different salads. Throughout the day you can enjoy a
bottle of good Moravian wine or a pint of Pilsner beer, or even a cocktail made to recipes directly from the Caribbean.

ZLN Hacienda Mexicana /h: |||

Nmst Prce 1335, 760 01. Tel 577 560 200. Road map C3.
A popular Mexican restaurant with a congenial atmosphere. The internal decor is typical of a Mexican themed venue.
All food is prepared in accordance with traditional recipes; some ingredients are imported from Mexico. The menu
also includes Mediterranean and American dishes, and there is a great choice for kids.

ZNOJMO Na Vnosti /h: ||

Velk Mikulsk 11, 669 02. Tel 776 856 650.

The restaurant is housed in a Renaissance building, with a pub in the basement and an art gallery and restaurant on
the ground floor. The menu is dominated by vegetarian cuisine. A large selection of wines. It is worth a visit for its
interesting interiors and congenial atmosphere alone.

ZNOJMO Hradn restaurace /h:7f |||||

Hradn 87/2, 669 02. Tel 606 408 863. Road map C3.
A stylish restaurant in the Gothic rooms of Znojmo Castle. The menu is dominated by Bohemian cuisine, specializing
in grilled and spit-roasted fare. In spring and summer you can sit outside and enjoy historic vignettes played out on
the castles front courtyard.
390 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Restaurants in Slovakia PRICE CATEGORIES

Price per person for a three-course
meal with half a bottle of wine,
The restaurants listed below have been selected for their including table charge, service
excellent food, convenient or attractive location and and tax.
value for money. They are divided into regions, as they under 12
1220
appear in the guide. The entries are ordered alpha- 2035
betically within each price category. Further information over 35
is provided in the form of symbols.

BRATISLAVA

Bagel & Coffee Story

trova 13, 811 02. Tel (02) 52 63 16 56. Road map C4.
A variety of bagel sandwiches (such as French, Italian, New York and vegetarian) and salads are served in this original
American-style chain-restaurant. The fantastic selection of drinks ranges from cappuccinos, lattes and flavoured coffees
to milkshakes and fresh juices. Branches are found at Obchodn 10, Hlavn nmestie 8 and Ventrska 3.

Trafen hus /z7

afrikovo nmestie 7, 811 02. Tel/Fax (02) 52 92 54 73. Road map C4.
This traditional but modern restaurant has an light-hearted atmosphere. The bar serves excellent Czech and Belgian
beers, while the restaurant offers a variety of grill specials, stews and other Slovak, European and American dishes.
Its central location makes Trafen hus a great place to stop when sightseeing in the city.

1. Slovak Pub /

Obchodn 62, 811 02. Tel (02) 52 92 63 67. Road map C4.
This easy-going restaurant is a popular student meeting place. The food is typical Slovak fare, made with fresh
produce from the owners farm, including bryndza cheese made from sheeps milk. The dining rooms are decorated
to different themes from Slovak history.

Bratislava Flag Ship Restaurant /:z

Nm. SNP 8, 811 02. Tel 0907 227 754. Road map C4.
From the outside this restaurant has the traditional facade of an old Bratislavan town house, but inside the decor is
far from typical, as the interior resembles the deck of an old ship. In this unusual setting diners can enjoy good
Bratislavan and Slovak dishes at reasonable prices.

Chez David /h:zf

Zmock 13, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 41 38 24. Road map C4.
This cosy and reasonably priced restaurant on the way from the town centre to the castle, offers delicious dishes
of traditional Jewish cuisine, kosher wines, daily menus and fresh fruit drinks. Chez David also serves breakfast.
and has a quaint terrace.

Film Restaurant /:z

Vysok 27. Tel (02) 52 93 29 74. Road map C4.

A little bit of Hollywood in Bratislava, the decor of this restaurant is reminiscent of the Wild West and the silver
screen. The food is traditional, fresh and tasty, and a range of local and Jewish pastries are served. The romantic
terrace in the courtyard provides a quaint spot for dinner.

Polovncka Retaurcia sv. Huberta /h:z

Dulovo nmestie 1, 821 08. Tel (02) 55 96 85 50. Road map C4.
In addition to game, which is their speciality, this restaurant offers international dishes inspired by French cuisine.
The menu includes vegetable salads, pasta dishes and light chicken and fish selections. The desserts and pastries,
made on the premises, are outstanding. The interior reflects the hunting theme of their speciality.

Retaurcia Hrad /:

Nm. A. Dubeka 1 (in the castle courtyard). Tel/Fax (02) 59 72 42 56. Road map C4.
Located in the garden of the Bratislava Castle, Retaurcia Hrad has fantastic views over Bratislava that can be
enjoyed from the elegant terrace. The menu offers a variety of traditional Slovak dishes including Danube fish soup
and dumplings and sauerkraut. The decor is modern, and has crystal chandeliers.

Retaurcia Parlamentka /:z7

Nm. A Dubeka 1. Tel (02) 59 72 92 53. Road map C4.

Situated in front of Bratislava Castle and the Slovak parliament, this modern, stylish restaurant has stunning views of
the river Danube, Austria and Hungary. The menu combines traditional Slovakian cuisine with international flavours.
Children are well catered for here with a playground.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

 W H E R E T O E A T I N S L O VA K I A 391

Sladova House of Beer /:z

Sedlrska 1, 811 01. Tel (02) 59 20 50 22. Road map C4.

Sladova is a typical Slovakian beer house. Guests can order kegs to their tables and serve their own beer. Traditional
soups with hearty dumplings are menu highlights. The decor is very simple and traditional in its style. There are three
plasma screens showing live sport making this a popular spot for sports fans.

Au Caf /:z7

Tyrovo Nbreie 12. Tel (02) 62 52 03 55. Road map C4.

Located on the river bank of the Danube, this modern restaurant offers stunning views over the river, the castle and
the old city centre. In 1827 it was already a famous caf, and by 1896 it was a classy restaurant. After a subsequent
decline during the Communist era, it was rebuilt and re-opened in 2003.

Franczska retaurcia /h:z

Riena 4, 811 02. Tel (02) 59 98 58 52. Road map C4.

This French restaurant in the Devin Hotel has been enjoying well-deserved fame for over half a decade. The chefs
specialities include pork fillet medallions with bryndza cheese and potato dumplings. French-style service and wine
selection. Added to this are Slovak dishes and wines, and international cuisine.

La Lanterna /:z7

Zmock 30, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 13 13 90. Road map C4.
This cosy restaurant is owned by a young Italian. It is located halfway between the castle and the town centre.
On the menu are typical home-made Italian dishes like pasta and pizza as well as seafood and fresh fish. All can be
enjoyed with a good Italian wine.

Le Monde /:z7

Rybrsk Brna 8, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 41 54 11. Road map C4.
Situated in historic Kern House in the heart of the Old Town, this restaurant is a spectacular establishment.
The cuisine is international, with fresh fish, good steak and seasonal food. Be sure to check out the fantastic
views from the terrace. Le Monde is classy by day and seductive by night.

Paparazzi /z7

Laurinsk 1, 811 01. Tel (02) 54 64 79 71. Road map C4.

This Italian restaurant is located in the historic town centre, in a 19th-century Neo-Classical building. Particularly
worth recommending are fettucine con gamberoni pasta, and roast veal cutlets topped with prosciutto and sage.
The cocktail bar serves Italian-style cocktails and other drinks.

Slovensk retaurcia /:zf

Hviezdoslavovo nmestie 20, 813 36. Tel/Fax (02) 54 43 48 83. Road map C4.
This award-winning restaurant is situated near the historic building of the National Theatre. Slovensk retaurcia
serves contemporary and traditional Slovak cuisine, including a variety of meats in cream sauces, and potato
dishes. The wine list is tempting.

WEST SLOVAKIA

KOMRNO Banderium :z7

Nmestie Mr tefnika II, 945 01. Tel (035) 773 1930. Road map D4.
An elegant restaurant situated in the town centre in a pension that occupies an 18th-century building. The culinary
traditions of this place go back to the 19th century, yet the stylish interior looks completely up to date. The menu is
a mix of local and international cuisine.

MALACKY Restaurcia Koliba :7

Dukelskch Hrdinov 47. Tel (034) 774 26 02. Road map C4.
Housed in a typical, traditional Slovak cottage, known as a koliba, this cosy restaurant is located adjacent to the
castle park. In keeping with the setting, the menu offers traditional Slovak dishes as well as a selection of grilled
meats. In the summer there is seating on an open terrace.

MODRA U Richtra /:z

trova 95, 900 01. Tel (033) 640 57 08. Road map C4.
Located in the vineyard of a stylish 16th-century homestead, this restaurant offers excellent traditional Slovak meals
with a modern touch, as well as international cuisine. The wine cellar is huge, and waiting staff are on hand to help
choose the perfect wine to accompany meals. The courtyard is beautiful.

NITRA Mexiko h:z

tefnikova 5, 949 01. Tel (037) 652 53 81. Road map D4.
An original Mexican-themed restaurant housed in the basement of the Zobor Hotel. Menu dominated by Mexican
food but it also includes Slovak and Bohemian dishes (served in the Gastro Grill, MonFri 7am8pm, Sun 211pm).
Occasionally it organizes all-night discos.
392 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

NITRA Hofferka /:z

tefnikova 39. Tel (037) 650 48 75. Road map D4.

This cosy family restaurant is located in the pedestrianized zone of Nitra. It offers a wide range of Slovak and
international dishes and has a beautiful summer terrace. The decor is rustic, while the prices are reasonable and the
atmosphere relaxed. The food is consistently good.

NITRA Zlat Klik /h:z7f

Svtourbansk 27, 949 01. Tel/Fax (037) 655 02 05. Road map D4.
Beautifully located above the town on the slopes of Mount Zobor. Serves mainly regional food, but it also offers a
choice of international cuisine. Delicious desserts, including chocolate mousse with pear and cinnamon. There is a
good selection of Slovak and foreign wines.

NOV ZMKY Koliba dolina hz

portov 4, 941 01. Tel (035) 642 60 55. Road map D4.
The restaurant is run by the association of catering colleges and staffed by trainee catering students. Located above
the Kaufland shop, it offers a large and regularly changing selection of good quality and freshly prepared dishes at
very affordable prices.

NOV ZMKY Hubert /h:z7

Budovatelsk 2, 940 60. Tel/Fax (035) 642 64 80. Road map D4.
A modern restaurant and caf with summer terrace, Japanese garden and air-conditioned interiors. It specializes in
freshwater fish and game the stag goulash is very popular. It also offers a large selection of salads and dishes for
people who want to eat healthy yet tasty food.

PEZINOK Slimka /:z

Holubyho 12. Tel (033) 641 24 52. Road map C4.

This family-owned restaurant in the famous wine region of Pezinok has a garden and a wine cellar. It has been in the
same family for four generations. The popularity of the current owner, Mrs Slimkov, has made it famous, and it
continues to prosper. The interior is traditional and the cuisine international.

PEZINOK Pivnica U Zlatej Husi /:z7

Pezinsk 2, Slovensk Grob. Tel 0905 525 417; 0905 759 163. Road map C4.
This popular family restaurant cherishes tradition, serving up fine Western Slovak cuisine. The house speciality is roast
goose, and the goose liver and soup are also exceptional. It has an excellent wine cellar that is comprised mainly of
local wines. Its location in the foothills of the Carpathian mountains is lovely and is only a 30-minute drive from Bratislava.

SENEC Senec /h:z7

Slnen jazer sever, 903 01. Tel (02) 45 92 72 55. Road map D4.
A modern hotel restaurant with a summer terrace overlooking the Sunny Lakes beach and sports area. The menu
lists a variety of meats, poultry, and even ostrich, as well as vegetarian dishes. The fish selection is good, with trout,
carp and catfish, as well as Goulash la Danube, with four kinds of fish.

TRENN Tatra /h:z7

Gen M R tefnika, 911 01. Tel (032) 650 61 11. Road map D3.
A hotel restaurant attractively located in a 19th-century building at the foot of Trenin Castle. Serves international
dishes, including grilled breast of duck with roasted apples filled with almonds or goats cheese, served on a bed
of lettuce with blueberries and pine nuts. French wines.

TRENIANSKE TEPLICE Dedinka /:z7

Kpeln 13, 914 51. Tel (032) 655 14 76. Road map D3.
Located in a quiet part of the resort, in a lovingly restored burghers house, it offers typically Slovak cuisine with
traditional names, such as Pachove gule (stuffed potato balls with smoked meat and stewed cabbage) or Zbojncke
dukty (Highland robbers ducats), which is pork roasted with bacon and sheeps cheese.

ELIEZOVCE Retaurcia Csiko Csarda /h:7

Rozmrinov 1, 937 01. Tel/Fax (036) 771 19 75. Road map D3.
Hungarian-style restaurant, the interior decor redolent of the 192030s. Wide selection of game, poultry and fish
dishes. The chefs showpiece is Piramida (Pyramid) a dish of turkey, pork loin, and roast goose slices with layers
of blue cheese. Pear with salmon mousse is also worth trying.

CENTRAL SLOVAKIA

BANSK BYSTRICA Hotel achtika /h:

chtiky 34, 974 01. Tel (048) 414 19 11. Road map E3.
achtika is a hotel restaurant enjoying an attractive location in the winter sports centre. The restaurants huge
windows offer superb views over the wooded mountain slopes. Slovak and international cuisine served to the music
of a Gypsy band in a typical Slovak environment.

Key to Price Guide see p390 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N S L O VA K I A 393

BANSK BYSTRICA Hotel Dixon /hz7

vermov 32, 974 04. Tel (048) 413 08 08. Road map C4.
A hotel restaurant situated close to the sports complex. Excellent for business meetings and banquets. It offers
Slovak and international cuisine at reasonable prices. Although the restaurant is large, its warm colours and softly
lit interior give it an intimate atmosphere.

BANSK BYSTRICA Lux /h:z7f

Nmestie Slobody 2, 974 00. Tel (048) 414 41 41-45. Road map E3.
Located in the Lux Hotel, in the town centre, with an attractive view over the Old Town. Menu includes a wide
choice of vegetarian dishes, as well as poultry (such as Cte dAzur duck breast in orange sauce), beef, veal and
pork. Home-made sweets.

BREZNO Tlska Bata /:7f

Bystr 108, 977 65. Tel (048) 630 8500. Road map C4.
Located in a typical Slovak koliba in the middle of a forest, Tlska Bata offers a rustic dining experience. Speciality
meat dishes are prepared on the coals in front of you, and grandmothers recipes keep the menu very traditional.
Live folk music provides a taste of Slovakias musical culture, and the play area offers plenty to keep children entertained.

ERVEN KLTOR Goralsk retaurcia U Petrka :f

erven Kltor 61, 059 06. Tel (052) 482 27 84. Road map E3.
This country-style restaurant, celebrating the folklore of the Pieniny highlanders, is situated at the centre of town. It
has simple decor with plenty of natural wood, and offers dishes from highland and Slovak cuisines. It also organizes
picnics with highland music.

GERLACHOV Retaurcia Hotel Hubert /h:z7f

Gerlachov 302, 059 42. Tel (052) 478 08 11. Road map E3.
A catering complex (two restaurants, caf, wine bar, hunters lounge and shepherds hut) set amid the romantic
scenery of the High Tatras, overlooking the Gerlach summit. Menu includes fish, poultry and game. Trout fillet with
prawns and salmon sauce is particularly recommended. A very large selection of wines.

JASN Tri Studniky /h:7

Demnovsk dolina 5. Tel (044) 547 80 00. Road map E3.

The name of this restaurant translates as Three Wells. It is one of the most famous restaurants in the country, with
a wide range of barbecue specialities, wood oven pizza and a wide choice of meals from local and international
cuisine. There is a fireplace and a very pleasant terrace.

MARTIN Grandis, Hotel Grandis /h:z7

Hrdinov SNP 90. Tel/Fax (043) 422 00 15. Road map D3.
Set in a picturesque location on the outskirts of town amid the mountain scenery of Mal Fatra, the restaurant
serves dishes such as turkey with asparagus and basil, and pancakes with chestnut pure, plus the best Slovak and
Moravian wines. An adjacent caf permits smoking.

NOV SMOKOVEC Atrium /h:7

Nov Smokovec 42, 062 01. Tel (052) 442 23 42. Road map E3.
A very smart, modern hotel restaurant with a light and airy interior and amazing mountain views from the windows
of the restaurant. Menu includes Slovak and international dishes. Outdoor dining in summer. Within the same hotel
are a wine bar and pub.

PARTIZNSKE Afrodita /h:z,7

Prievidzsk 30, 972 46 evenany. Tel/Fax (905) 354 538. Road map D3.
One of the best restaurants in the country, located in a beautiful small castle. Extensive and imaginative menu includ-
ing original seafood dishes. Also cream of snail soup with roasted almonds, or marinated salmon with prawns in a
prawn sauce. Save some room for one of the delicious desserts. Large no-smoking room.

PCHOV Wili /h:z7

1 mja 899, 020 01. Tel (042) 463 14 51. Road map D3.
The restaurant belongs to the modern Hotel Wili. The interior is crisply decorated, and the food very well presented.
Salmon with spinach garnished with Orava bacon comes well recommended. A delicious dessert is pear baked in red
wine filled with vanilla cream and nuts.

RUOMBEROK Pansk dom /h:z7f

Nmestie A Hlinku 43, 034 01. Tel (044) 432 82 06. Road map C4.
With its excellent location in the towns central square, in a historic craftsmans house, the restaurant is reputed to
be the best in this part of Liptov. It offers regional delicacies consisting of fish and game. Wild boar medallions with
thyme and blueberry sauce, served with grilled potatoes, is definitely a dish worth trying.

STAR SMOKOVEC Retaurcia Grand Hotel Star Smokovec /h:

Star Smokovec 25, 062 01. Tel 442 51 91. Road map E3.
A modern gastronomic complex within a hotel, with the main restaurant in an imposing, high-ceilinged room, and a
nearby bistro and caf. In summer wooden tables are placed outside for alfresco dining. All dietary requirements can
be accommodated on request.
394 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

TRBSKE PLESO Koliba na Janovej Polianke /h:z7

059 85. Tel (052) 449 22 21. Road map E3.

Stylish restaurant, caf, wine bar and pub situated at the foothills of Tatras Mountains within the National Park. A
variety of traditional Slovak dishes, live music and an excellent atmosphere. In the summer some tables are put
outside for diners. Welcomes children and has a kids menu.

TRBSKE PLESO Slnen retaurcia h:z7f

059 85. Tel (052) 449 25 91. Road map E3.

The restaurant belongs to Patria one of the most beautifully located hotels in the Tatras Mountains. Dine in an ele-
gant and spacious interior and choose from a large selection of dishes that represent the worlds cuisine. A popular
spot for walkers.

TATRANSK LOMNICA Zbojncka Koliba :7f

Tatransk Lomnica 192. Tel (052) 446 76 30. Road map E3.
The Zbojncka Koliba, or Robbers Cottage, offers a wonderful atmosphere with its typical Slovak ceramics, wood
interior and open fireplace. The food is typical Slovak at reasonable prices. It is situated in the centre of Tatransk
Lomnica next to the Grand Hotel Praha. Live folk music every evening.

TATRANSK LOMNICA Restaurant Grand Hotel Praha /h:7f

059 60. Tel (052) 446 79 41. Road map E3.

A luxurious hotel gastronomic complex including restaurant, caf and bar. Varied menu and a full array of services;
you can even order a photographer to record your visit for posterity. The main restaurant is imposing with chande-
liers and voluminous curtains.

DIAR Goralska Krma /h:

059 55. Tel/Fax (052) 449 81 38. Road map C4.

The restaurant is in the diar pension building standing along the main road to the border with Poland. Offers
highland specialities. The decor is rustic with wooden floors and walls, and the walls are bedecked with hunting
trophies. Superb mountain views.

ILINA Gastro Nvum /h:z

Zvodsk cesta 2961, 010 01. Tel/Fax (041) 724 76 63. Road map D3.
The restaurant, run by the association of catering colleges, has plenty of Slovak dishes, some cooked in front
of guests. Famous for its desserts, including the home-baked strudel with nuts. The interior is fairly plain and
brightly lit.

ILINA Gold Wing /:z

Marinske nmestie 30/5, 010 01. Tel (041) 564 06 85. Road map D3.
Located in the town centre, this is one of the most elegant restaurants in ilina. The chefs, with international
experience, prepare all kinds of dishes from around the world. Particularly worth recommending is the pork
tenderloin wrapped in Parma ham with potato gratin.

ZVOLEN Polana /h:z7

Nmestie SNP 64/2, 960 01. Tel/Fax (045) 532 01 24. Road map D3.
The towns most famous restaurant. It leans towards Slovak cuisine and potatoes in any form: boiled, roasted or
made into pancakes (harula). Slovak dishes are served with Slovak wines. Also international cuisine. The delicious
desserts include pear with caramel and ice cream.

EAST SLOVAKIA

KEMAROK Retaurcia Hotel Club /:

MUDr. Alexandra 24, 060 01. Tel (052) 452 40 51. Road map E3.
The towns most elegant restaurant. Its interior is decorated with hunting trophies. A wide selection of Slovak and
international dishes, and its specialities include venison, and whole roast pig (which needs to be ordered in advance).
In spring and summer you can dine outdoors.

KOICE 12 Apotolov /:z7

Kovska 51, 040 01. Tel (055) 729 51 05. Road map F3.
The restaurant has been in business since 1910. It is located in Koice Old Town, in a 14th-century burghers house.
Snug interior; extensive menu and wine list Slovak and foreign. The chefs specials include breast of duck with
almonds and orange salsa; also turkey roulade.

KOICE Richtrsky Dvor /:

Bon 10, 040 01. Tel (055) 728 84 93. Road map F3.
Richtrsky Dvor is a truly traditional Slovak-style restaurant in the centre of Koice. It offers huge portions of home-
made traditional Slovak dishes at reasonable prices. Meats are grilled to order on the indoor and outdoor grills.
The atmosphere makes it suitable for families with children.

Key to Price Guide see p390 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O E A T I N S L O VA K I A 395

KOICE Camelot /:z

Kovska 19, 040 01. Tel (055) 685 40 39. Road map F3.
This restaurant transports visitors to the magical realms of Camelot. Waiting staff are dressed in authentic costume,
and the interior is decorated with shields and swords. Large portions and juicy steaks are served on clay plates, and
are accompanied by excellent beer and wine.

KOICE Krma Letna /h:z

Letn 1, 040 01. Tel (055) 798 38 11. Road map F3.
One of the best restaurants in Koice, it specializes in traditional Slovak cuisine, supplemented by international dishes.
It offers as many as 180 Slovak and French wines. House specials include breast of duck with pineapple sauce, beans
and potatoes; and foie gras with Cumberland sauce.

LEVOA Retaurcia u 3 apotolov /

Nmestie Majstra Pavla 11, 054 01. Tel (053) 451 23 02. Road map E3.
An elegant restaurant (Restaurant At the Three Apostles) situated at the centre of this historic town. It offers
excellently prepared dishes representing traditional Slovak cuisine. Menu includes a large selection of fish, at
reasonable prices, and vegetarian dishes.

POPRAD Forum Sabbathae /h:

Sobotsk nmestie 43, 058 01. Tel/Fax (052) 776 96 02. Road map E3.
Restaurant, caf and wine bar belonging to a congenial pension in Spisk Sobota, the historic district of Poprad.
Housed in a Renaissance building, it serves a lovely venison steak. A well-stocked wine cellar offers a choice of over
200 Slovak and foreign wines.

POPRAD Sabato /h:

Sobotsk nmestie 1730/6, 058 01. Tel/Fax (052) 776 95 80. Road map E3.
The restaurant belongs to a small pension in a 17th-century building in Spisk Sobota. It serves Slovak and
international cuisine, including lamb steak with spinach and baked pierogi (dumplings). An attractive summer
garden in historic surroundings. Open fires in winter.

PREOV La Cucaracha /z

Hlavn 72, 080 01. Tel 772 06 00. Road map F3.
The restaurant is located near Preovs historic centre. La Cucaracha specializes in Mexican cuisine the chilli
con carne and tacos are excellent but the menu also features a variety of grilled meats. The delicious, home-
made desserts are highly recommended.

PREOV Ludwig /:

Poiarnick 2. Tel (051) 748 19 58. Road map F3.

This small castle-style restaurant is situated in a pension close to the centre of Preov, next to St Nicolas Church.
The decor is elegant and in period style. The menu is international and the food is modern and trendy. The outdoor
seating area is a beautiful spot on a sunny day.

SLOVENSK KRAS Restaurant U eleznho Grfa h:

Roavsk 635, 049 41. Tel/Fax (058) 732 99 80. Road map E3.
A cosy restaurant located in a building scenically set at the foot of one of Slovakias most famous castles. It offers
generous portions of traditional Slovak cuisine. Service is friendly and the atmosphere is pleasant. In summer there is
an outdoor terrace for diners, and a childrens play area.

SPISK NOV VES Nostalgie /:z7

Letn 49, 052 01. Tel/Fax (053) 441 41 44. Road map E3.
Located in the town centre in a historic building, the restaurant favours fusion cuisine, combining American, Mexican
and Italian elements. Particularly recommended are the Knig (king) salmon, grilled breast of duck with peas, fried
potatoes and rosemary sauce, and the Italian desserts.

SPISK NOV VES Retaurcia Hotel Metropol /h:z7

Stefanikovo nmestie 2, 052 01. Tel 442 22 413. Road map E3.
The elegant restaurant of the Metropol Hotel offers a large selection of international dishes. The restaurant
specializes in meat and fish dishes as well as delicious desserts. There is a patio open during the summer months
where you can enjoy an aperitif before dinner.

SPISK STAR VES Nova :z7

SNP 504/99. Tel (052) 482 2178; 0903 759 034. Road map E3.
Restaurant Nova offers a wide range of local and international dishes. In winter visitors can sit by the roaring open
fire, and in summer they can dine al fresco on the outdoor terrace. It has a beer house, where smoking is allowed,
and holds a weekly disco.

SPISK PODHRADIE Spisk sala h:7

Levosk cesta 11, 053 04. Tel (053) 454 12 02. Road map E3.
This long-standing restaurant has been in business since 1964. The menu features regional cuisine, consisting
mainly of traditional Spi dishes such as sheeps-cheese dumplings. A playground and pony rides are provided for
younger guests.
396 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SHOPPING IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC

I n many ways shopping is

undergoing great changes in
the Czech Republic, with
shopping malls springing up in
large and medium-sized towns,
pick up good quality and
sometimes quirky regional
items in individual specialized
shops and browsing is an
essential part of the pleasure.
and international chains opening Typical Czech products
branches. This means that many include crystal glassware, craft
standard essentials can be easily items, wooden toys and
bought here. For a choice of antiques. Lovely Czech gems are
goods with more of a Czech also worth investigating,
flavour, Prague cannot be Beautifully decorated particularly garnets. There are
beaten, particularly around Czech tankard some excellent book and
Wenceslas Square and in the music shops in Prague and
Star Msto. Elsewhere you can still around the country.

September. The huge, mainly

indoor Prague Market sells all
sorts of consumer goods.
Outside Prague local
markets in most towns and
cities sell produce and other
everday items, and sometimes
crafts. In large cities you can
find markets where
Vietnamese vendors sell Asian
clothes. Along the border
with the former East Germany
Vietnamese sellers also trade
in cigarettes, alcohol, and
even Czech glass and crystal.
The biggest concentration of
such trade is the Hrensko
One of Pragues numerous antique shops border crossing, along the
road from Dn to Dresden.
OPENING HOURS HOW TO PAY A large market selling mainly
alcohol has developed near
Most shops open from 9am Larger shops accept major the border with Poland, at the
to 5pm, Monday to Friday; credit and debit cards, but Kudowa-Nchod crossing.
shopping centres and smaller outlets prefer cash.
supermarkets usually stay Visitors from non-EU countries GLASS AND CERAMICS
open for longer, both earlier can claim a VAT refund of up
and later. Small shops may to 14 per cent of the purchase Bohemia is famous for its
close for an hour at price of some goods on high-quality lead crystal and
lunchtime. On Saturdays leaving the country. ornamental glass. The
shops close at 1 or 2pm, with main glass-
large shopping centres MARKETS producing regions
remaining open until 8pm. On are Krun hory
Sundays only large shopping Prague has several and the umava.
centres and selected food famous markets. In every town it is
stores open for business, and During its Christmas possible to find a
in small towns and villages all and Easter markets, shop specializing
shops may remain closed, or the Old Town Square and in glass and crystal
some may open for just a few Wenceslas Square fill with artifacts, and in the Star
hours in the morning. festive and traditional Msto in Prague there are
goods. There are two literally scores of them;
SALES permanent markets. The some of the best known
central, open-air Havel are esk kitl, Dana-
From time to time some Market sells fruit and Bohemia, Moser
Czech shops offer seasonal vegetables as well as and Sklo. One large
price reductions, especially some toys and crystal wine glass,
at the end of a season and ceramics; it is open A decorative lamp gilded and hand-
after Christmas. from April to from Harrachov painted with
 S H O P P I N G I N T H E C Z E C H R E P U B L I C 397

decorations, can cost in roki, oval cheeses

excess of 1,000K, but truly with a distinct
beautiful products are worth flavour, are also
their price. excellent.
Another interesting souvenir Department stores,
from the Czech Republic is a found in almost
traditional earthenware beer every large town,
tankard decorated with a are a good bet for
Czech brewery logo. food shopping.
Their food sections
HANDICRAFTS AND are usually on the
FOLK CRAFTS Fruit and vegetable market in Brno ground floor.

Traditional crafts are alive include Bazar Nbytku, ALCOHOLIC DRINKS

and well in the Czech Dorotheum and
Republic. The range of Staroitnosti Uhl. Their Famous Czech beers Pilsner
original souvenirs includes range of goods includes Urquell (Prazdroj) and
ceramics, wooden vessels mostly antique furniture, Budvar, which make excellent
and wooden toys. The paintings, porcelain and presents, can be bought in
largest selection of a variety of old bric- practically every food store. It
such goods can be a-brac. Prices are is also worth boosting your
found at local often more own stock with a supply of
markets, but gift reasonable than in local, lesser-known brands.
and souvenir shops western Europe. When it comes to vodkas,
may also have virtually all Czech brands,
some interesting FOOD including the famous
items on offer. The famous Czech Becherovka, are available
spa wafers Czech chocolates throughout the country.
ANTIQUES are particularly Absinthe and slivovice (plum
good. The great variety of brandy) are other popular
The Czech Republic is a types includes boxed Czech spirits.
country rich in antiques. chocolates, bars (tyniky) and Wines from South Moravia
During the 1990s many shops wafers. Spa wafers are and the Mlnk area are the
opened specializing in traditionally taken with spa finest and well worth taking
antiques and now you can water; spa hotels and speciality back home. In Prague a good
find them (called shops often sell these. The selection of alcoholic drinks
Staroitnosti) in almost every Czech Republic is also a can be found in Jan Paukert
town. They are, of course, country producing excellent delicatessen (lahdky). If you
most numerous in Pragues cheeses. In some delicatessens are in the wine-producing
Old Town. Well-known you can buy long strings of areas, you can usually visit the
examples in the Old Town smoked cheese. Olomoucke vineyards to taste and buy.

DIRECTORY
MARKETS Hracky ANTIQUES Na Star Pot
Loretnsk nmst 3. Staroitnosti Nmst
Havel Market Prague. Map 1 B3. Art Gallery
Havelsk, Prague 1. Kinskyeh 7, Prague. Map
Tel 603 515 745. Maiselova 9, Josefov,
Map 3 B4. 3 B4. Tel 257 311 245.
Moser Prague. Map 3 B3.
Prague Market Staroitnosti Uhl
Na Pikop 12, Prague. Tel 222 319 816.
Holeovice, Prague 7. Mikulandsk 8, Prague.
Map 3 C4.
GLASS AND Tel 224 211 293. Bazar nbytku Map 3 B5.
CERAMICS Libensk ostrov, Prague 8. Tel 224 930 572.
Sklrny Bohemia
Nmst T G Masaryka Tel 266 310 726.
Dana-Bohemia
1130, Podbrady. FOOD AND
Nrodn 43, Prague. Dorotheum
Map 3 A5. Tel 325 611 618. ALCOHOLIC
Tel 224 214 655. Ovocn trh 2, Prague. DRINKS
Sklo
Mal nmst 6, Prague. Map 3 C3.
Sklo
Map 3 B4. Tel 224 222 001. Jan Paukert
Tda 1. Mje, Liberec.
Delicatessen and
Helena Bonevov Zdenk Kleprlk Elart Wine Bar
Repliky vitr Veste Glass
Mosteck 7, Mal Strana, Nrodn 17, Prague. Map
jezd 21, Prague. Ddinova 2011, Prague 4.
Map 2 E4. Tel 72 934 117. Prague. Map 3 B4. 3 A5. Tel 224 214 968.
Tel 257 311 496. www.vesteglass.com Tel 257 530 722. www.janpaukert.cz
398 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SHOPPING IN SLOVAKIA

T he souvenirs and
presents most often
brought back from
Slovakia are handcrafted
goods, such as traditional
The local cheeses are varied
and delicious, and Slovak
wines, beers and spirits are
good value.
Shops in Slovakia range
clothing, tablecloths, lace, from small local outlets and
Slovak ceramic plaque
wooden or china figurines, bazaars and markets to
sculptures, ceramics and paintings on department stores and supermarkets
glass, wood or ceramic. An original, belonging to large international chains.
although somewhat bulky, souvenir The best places to buy Slovak
would be a vast mountain horn up to handcrafted goods are at the numerous
4 m (13 ft) in length! Visitors to the folk festivals, but you can also get them
Tatras mountains can bring back a in specialist shops, which you will
valaka a highlanders walking stick. generally find in any of the larger towns.
SALES TAX Most large department stores
in town centres date from
In the Slovak the Communist era, but their
Republic sales tax is interiors have been adapted
known as DPH (da to modern trade requirements.
z pridanej hodnoty). Some have been taken over
It is charged on most by the Tesco group. The
goods at a flat rate of range of goods on offer is
19 per cent. practically the same as that
When they leave found on the shelves of all
the country, visitors large stores in Europe.
from non-EU coun-
tries can claim a MARKETS
refund of sales tax of
up to 14 per cent of In many Slovak towns
the purchase price of and villages the traditional
A souvenir stall goods over 165. market day is Saturday.
This is when locals come
OPENING HOURS DEPARTMENT STORES out to buy the best local
fruit, vegetables and meat.
Shops in Slovakia are generally Over the last decade, Slovakia, The most famous weekly
open from 9am to 6pm, particularly Bratislava, has produce market takes place
although some food stores experienced a boom of large, in the twin central market
open as early as 6am and do modern, trendy shopping squares in Bratislava
not close until 8 or 9pm. Some malls and galleries. Some of (Hlavn nmestie and
shops open on Saturdays and these are within walking Frantiknsk nmestie).
Sundays, usually until 1pm. distance of the city centre, At Slovak markets, besides
Shops belonging to large and open seven days a week buying all sorts of goods,
chains, like Carrefour, Billa or from 10am to 9pm. you can also taste local
Hypernova, are usually open
every day of the week until
late at night (Saturdays and
Sundays until 5pm). Out-of-
town hypermarkets such as
Tesco are open 24 hrs. These
are not to be confused with
Tesco town centre department
stores, which are open the
same hours as smaller shops.

HOW TO PAY

As in the Czech Republic,

larger shops will accept major
credit and debit cards, but
smaller outlets will accept
only cash. Goods on sale inside an ULUV shop, Bratislava
 S H O P P I N G I N S L O VA K I A 399

figures. Complete Nativity

scenes are quite pricey but
make superb and unique
presents or mementos that
last for decades. Models of
traditional Slovak wooden
buildings are also beautiful
items to bring home.
Traditional crafts and art
products can be bought
relatively easily in larger
towns and tourist resorts.
Try U ofky in Bratislava,
Krausk a syn in Bojnice, or
U Krla Mateja in Spisk
Europe Place square and shopping mall in Komrno, West Slovakia Sobota). ULUV (Centre for
Folk Art Production) is a
delicacies, such as potato HANDICRAFTS AND chain of stores specializing in
pancake (loka) and fried TRADITIONAL ART selling Slovak handicrafts.
garlic cakes (lango), as well
as local wines. The agricultural character FOOD AND DRINK
of most of Slovakias
CERAMICS regions has helped to Slovak shops sell a variety
preserve a great many of traditional local food
Slovakia has some interesting traditions and customs products, such as sheep
ceramics. Majolica from throughout the country. cheeses, including brynza,
Modra is particularly popular; An excellent present from smoked otiepky and steamed
the factory shop in Modra, Slovakia might be a doll paenice. The culinary
Slovensk ludov majolika, dressed in traditional speciality of the Mal Fatra
has a superb selection, but its costume. Other interesting region are korbiki strings
china is sold all over Slovakia. traditional Slovak items of plaited smoked and
include embroidery, table- steamed cheeses.
ANTIQUES cloths, wood-carvings, Those who enjoy a tipple
painted Easter eggs, dolls might like to bring home
Antique shops (staroitnosti) made of dried corn leaves or from Slovakia a few bottles
are not as prevalent as in the wire, and secular or religious of a local wine, liqueurs, the
Czech Republic, but are still paintings on glass, wood or famous plum brandy slivovice,
found in most towns, and ceramics. Slovak traditional or cognac. They are all
there are many interesting artists are also renowned for relatively inexpensive.
items and sometimes bargains their wood-carvings, mostly Slovak Zlat baant bottled
to be snapped up. depicting saints and Nativity beer is excellent.

DIRECTORY
CERAMICS Marin Chovanec Kora ULUV Stores
Rhodyho 13, 085 01 www.uluv.sk
Benekit v.o.s. Hurbanovo nmestie 46,
Bardejov. Main store: Obchodn
Gorkho 15, 811 01 Bojnice. 64, 816 11 Bratislava.
Bratislava. Penzin Remeseln Tel (046) 541 24 95. Tel 0915 987 299.
Tel (02) 54 43 40 29.
Dvor
Trojin nmestie 182/8, Staro itnosti Other branches:
Blesk & MLB s.r.o. 027 44 Tvrdon (near Doln 14, 974 01 Bansk
Pavel Haluka, Ul. 1.
Nmestie A Hlinku 72, Oravsky castle). www. Bystrica.
penzion-remeselnydvor.sk mja 19, Liptovsk Tel (048) 412 36 57.
034 01 Ruomberok.
Mikul. Radnin nmestie 42,
Detvianske ludov Slovensk ludov
majolika www.antikliptov.com 085 67 Bardejov.
umenie
Doln 138, 900 01 Modra. Tel (054) 472 29 84.
Partiznska St. (opposite U Krla Mateja
the church), Detva. Tel (033) 647 32 38. Nmestie SNP 12,
Sobotk nmestie 1774/31, 811 06 Bratislava.
http://vysivky.detva.biz www.majolika.sk
Poprad Spisk Sobota. Tel (102) 52 92 38 02.
Folk Folk ANTIQUES AND Tel 0907 564 312. Hlavn 137 kolgium,
Rybrska Brna 2. HANDICRAFTS 080 01 Preov.
www.antiq.sk
Tel (02) 54 43 48 74. Tel (051) 773 22 66.
Hubov
Ludov umenie U ofky
Zochova 1013/8, 026 01 Hlavn 5,
Kramariov Doln Kubn. Michalska 5, Bratislava. 917 00 Trnava.
Albetina 32/34, Koice. Tel 0905 566 116. Tel (02) 54 43 19 94. Tel (033) 551 36 84.
400 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

CZECH EN T ER TAI N M E NT
T he Czech Republic offers
a wide variety of enter-
tainment for its visitors,
with something for every taste
and interest. Those who enjoy
holiday period, numerous
Czech castles stage knights
tournaments with brilliant
displays of fencing or
swordsmanship. In the
nightlife will get the most from evenings dramatic episodes
Prague, with its scores of associated with the sites
nightclubs, theatres, cinemas history are performed.
and music venues. Outside Concerts of early and Baroque
Prague the options are more lim- music and organ recitals take place
ited, but most other large Detail from the Puppet in castles and churches. Many
towns and cities have a lively Theatre in Ostrava towns and tourist resorts
cultural scene, though it may be mostly organize club nights and rock concerts
for Czech speakers. During the main featuring local and international artists.

well as Czech productions.

Most foreign films are shown
in their original language with
Czech subtitles. One of the
biggest multi-screen cinemas
in Prague is the Cinema City
Flora complex. The largest
Czech cinema event is the
annual International Film
Festival held in late June and
early July in Karlovy Vary.

THEATRE

An outdoor performance of a play in esk Krumlov, South Bohemia Most large towns have a
theatre, often a historic
INFORMATION advance. If you are visiting in building with a beautiful
the summer, it makes sense to interior. Czech theatre has a
Information on what is on book ahead for performances long tradition. Pragues
and where in Prague can be you particularly want to see National Theatre (see pp945)
found in the listings of the and they will deliver the is the citys main theatre, but
weekly English-language tickets to your hotel. there are many mainstream
Prague Post, sold in the city and fringe theatres, such as
and available on the Internet CINEMA the Laterna Magika and the
(www.praguepost.com). Here Komedie, both of which stage
and elsewhere, tourist offices There are cinemas throughout more avant-garde productions.
are also a good source of the country, even in small As a rule, theatres display
information, and look out for towns. They show the latest the plays that are currently in
free leaflets and posters in the foreign releases (often repertoire on the front of the
local area. Hollywood blockbusters), as building, but posters advert-
ising current productions can
BOOKING AND PRICES also be seen locally. Few
productions outside Prague
Tickets for cultural events in are in English.
the Czech Republic are not
excessively expensive: they CLASSICAL MUSIC
range from around 100K (for AND OPERA
one of the smaller theatres in
Prague) up to 3,000K (for a Classical music has a long
concert by a major orchestra). tradition in the Czech
Concert and theatre tickets Republic. The country has
can be booked by telephone produced some great
or by letter. Tickets to Pragues composers, including Bedich
National Opera or National Smetana, Antonn Dvok,
Theatre can also be purchased Leo Janek, and Bohuslav
on the Internet. Group tickets Martin. Works by Czech
to the most popular perform- Classical music concert in Pragues composers figure in the
ances can be booked well in State Opera repertoires of local orchestras
 C Z E C H E N T E R T A I N M E N T 401

all year round. Although most

orchestras and concert halls
close for the holiday season,
that is when numerous
classical music concerts are
staged in churches, castles
and palaces. Many churches,
in Prague and several other
large cities, organize concerts
of Baroque music.
The Rudolfinum (see p82) is
the home of the Czech
Philharmonic Orchestra. The
Prague Symphony Orchestra
is based at the Municipal
House (see pp845). The
State Opera and the Estates
Theatre in Prague stage first- Imposing faade of the Mahenovo Theatre in Brno
class operas and ballets.
Brno has a very active NIGHTLIFE to book. Malostransk
classical music scene; the Beseda puts on rock, jazz,
National Theatre is a superb There are large numbers of blues, country and folk music.
concert venue. music and dance clubs that Outside Prague, check the
specialize in different kinds of flyposters for the current
MUSIC FESTIVALS music, so that most music information on gigs and
fans will be able to find clubs. Most cities and larger
Another great attraction for something to their liking. towns have venues with live
music lovers are the Czech Every large Czech town has a music nightly, mainly from
music festivals (for specific music club, although their Czech bands and musicians.
festivals, see pp2831). The greatest numbers are in Prague. Techno and dance is very
most famous is Prague The best-known cultural popular throughout the
Spring International Music centre in Prague is Palace country. Top Czech and some
Festival. Prague also stages Akropolis. This complex foreign DJs can be seen; again,
an International Jazz Festival includes a theatre, concert hall, check flyposters for details.
in October. exhibition space, caf and For gay and lesbian visitors,
One of the best ways to restaurant. It hosts many world Prague has the most nightlife
sample Czech folk music is at music artists. Agharta Jazz to offer. The magazine Amigo
one of its many folk festivals; Centrum is perhaps Pragues has listings. Valentino is one
enquire at tourist offices for best jazz club; it is very popu- of the most popular gay bars.
details of events, which can lar so if you want to see a Outside Prague and Brno, gay
be very crowded. particular performer it is vital venues are much scarcer.

DIRECTORY
TICKETS Map 3 A5. Rudolfinum Tel 222 211 275.
Tel 224 901 448. Alovo Nbei 12, Prague. www.agharta.cz
www.ticketpro.cz Map 3 A3. Tel 227 059
www.nationaltheatre.cz
Malostransk
352. www.rudolfinum.cz
CINEMA Beseda
CLASSICAL MUSIC
State Opera Malostransk nm. 21,
Cinema City Flora AND OPERA
Wilsonova 4, Prague 1. Prague 1. Map 3 C4.
Vinohradsk, Prague 3. Map 4 E5. Tel 224 227 Tel 0605 189 524.
Estates Theatre
Tel 255 742 021. 266. www.opera.cz
www.cinemacity.cz Ovocn trh 1, Prague 1. Palace Akropolis
Map 3 C4. Kubelkova 27, Prague 1.
MUSIC FESTIVALS
THEATRES Tel 224 215 001. Tel 296 330 913.
www.narodni-divdlo.cz International Jazz www.palacakropolis.cz
Komedie Theatre Festival
Jungmannova 1, Prague 1. Municipal House Rock Caf
Nmst Republiky 5, www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz
Map 3 C5. Nrodn 20, Prague 1.
Tel 224 222 734. Prague 1. Map 4 D3. Prague Spring Map 3 B5.
www.divadlokomedie.cz Tel 222 002 101. www.praguespring.cz Tel 608 702 008.
www.obecnidum.cz www.rockcafe.cz
Laterna Magika
NIGHTLIFE
Nrodn 4, Prague 1. National Theatre, Valentino
Map 3 A5. Brno Agharta Jazz Vinohradskaho, Prague 2.
Tel 224 931 482. Dvoakova 11, Brno. Centrum Map 6 F1.
National Theatre Tel 542 158 111. elezn 16, Prague 1. Tel 222 513 491.
Nrodn 2, Prague 1. www.ndbrno.cz Map 3 C4. www.club-valentino.cz.
402 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

S LO VA K EN T ER TAI N M E NT

I n Slovakia, the wide-ranging

cultural entertainment on offer
should satisfy most visitors.
There are scores of theatres,
cinemas, discotheques,
Summer, which runs from June to
September and includes classical,
jazz and folk music performances
as well as theatre and cinema
shows. Similar festivals take place
dance clubs, concert halls, art in other larger towns in the
galleries and museums. summer, as well as in some smaller
Visitors can see performances tourist centres and spa resorts.
given by world-class artistes Summer and autumn are the
(mainly in large towns), as well liveliest times to visit in terms of
as attend numerous folk festivals cultural events, but there is a great
(more likely in the provinces). The deal of interest all year round,
best-known Slovak cultural Slovak fiddle particularly in Bratislava and
event is the Bratislava Cultural player the other major cities.

foreign languages. These

include Hungarian theatres
in Koice and Komrno;
Romany in Koice; and
Ukrainian-Ruthenian in
Preov. Few performances
are in English. Particularly
outstanding is the
contemporary theatre in
Bratislava, Astorka.
Other theatres that enjoy
spectacular successes include
Nov Scna, which is popular
for musicals, Radoin Naive
Performers at a pop concert in Bratislava Theatre (Radoinsk naivn
divadlo), the avant-garde
INFORMATION which show non-commercial GUnaGU and S.T.O.K.A., and
films. Most films are subtitled. the Jewish folklore theatre
The free English-language Modern multiplex cinemas Pressburger Klezmer Band. All
weekly The Slovak Spectator is such as Palace Cinemas can be are based in Bratislava, but
a good source of information found in Bratislava. Most productions may go on tour.
about whats on in the capital cinemas in Bratislava show Slovakia also plays host
and around the country. The 3-D films. to several international
monthly magazine Whats on theatre festivals, including
Bratislava & Slovakia is also THEATRE the Bbkarska Bystrica
very informative and has (festival of puppet theatres)
some good reviews. Try The beginnings of Slovak in Bansk Bystrica. The
tourist offices for up-to-date theatre go back to the Middle musicals, mime and puppet
local information. Ages. Out of the 24 national events enable non-Slovak
theatres that exist in Slovakia, speakers to enjoy Slovakias
TICKET PRICES a few give performances in rich traditions.

It is hard to generalize about CLASSICAL MUSIC,

prices but a ticket to a Slovak OPERA AND
Philharmonic concert and to BALLET
the Slovak National Theatre
will cost about 1020, a The main establish-
cinema ticket may cost as ments associated with
much as 5. classical music, opera
and ballet have their
CINEMA homes in the capital.
The Slovak
Slovakia has a relatively Philharmonic
large number of cinemas Orchestra has been
particularly in Bratislava but housed in the
also in small towns and Neo-Baroque Reduta
villages. The country has film building (see p282)
clubs and alternative cinemas, Foyer with bar in a Bratislava cinema since 1949. In 1960 it
 S L O VA K E N T E R T A I N M E N T 403

gave birth to the Slovak

Chamber Orchestra. The
countrys best opera and
ballet theatre is the Slovak
National Theatre (see p282).

MUSIC FESTIVALS

Each year numerous

music events and festivals
take place throughout
Slovakia (see also pp2569).
The most prominent are the
Bratislava Music Festival
and Bratislava Jazz Days,
both in the autumn.
The best-known Slovak
festival of popular music is
Bratislava Lyre, which used to
be one of the flagship Performance by the Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra
national entertainment events
under Communist rule, and the Old Town, in Korzo. Late Davidson (rock), and
now is a nationwide song at night you may choose to Laverna Klub (disco).
festival. The most important venture into a fashionable Club life is not limited to
and the biggest folk festivals discotheque or visit one of the countrys capital city
take place in Vhodn, the capitals music clubs those who enjoy spending
Myjava, Detva, Zuberec, and housed, for example, in the their time this way can also
erven Kltor. post-Communist nuclear find something to their liking
shelters. The flourishing in Koice, Trnava, Martin,
NIGHTLIFE nightlife is encouraged by Luenec and in the foothills
the relatively low prices of the Tatras, although the
Bratislava pulsates with life of drinks. entertainment on offer will be
round the clock. From April The best-known and most rather modest compared with
until early October countless popular clubs and discos in that of Bratislava.
outdoor areas for beer, wine Bratislava include: 17s Bar Inevitably, Bratislava is the
and music spring up around (rock), Caf Kt (reggae), place with the most nightlife
the town. In the evenings the Jazz Caf (jazz), Cirkus to offer gay men and lesbians.
focus of social life is in bars Barok (on a boat), Flamenco Two established gay clubs are
and pubs on the outskirts of (Latino disco), Harley D4 and Apollon.

DIRECTORY
CINEMA Nov Scna MUSIC FESTIVALS Flamenco
ivnostensk 1, tefnikova 14, Bratislava.
Palace Cinemas Bratislava Jazz Days
Bratislava.
Shopping Centre Eurovea. www.nova-scena.sk www.bjd.sk Tel (02) 90 56 12 90.
Tel (02) 68 20 22 22.
www.palacecinemas.sk Pressburger NIGHTLIFE Harley Davidson
Klezmer Band Rebarborov 1, Bratislava.
THEATRES www.klezmer.sk 17s Bar
www.harley-davidson.sk
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie
Arna Theatre CLASSICAL MUSIC, 17, Bratislava.
OPERA AND Jazz Caf
Viedensk cesta 10, Tel (09) 03 63 70 38.
Bratislava. BALLET Ventrska 5,
Tel (02) 67 20 25 57. Apollon Gay Club Bratislava.
Slovak National
Panensk 24, Bratislava.
Astorka Theatre Theatre Tel (02) 54 43 46 61.
Tel 0948 900 093.
Nmestie SNP 33. Pribinova 17, Bratislava
www.apollon-gay-club.sk www.jazz-cafe.sk
www.astorka.sk Historical Building (Opera)
Hviezdoslavovo nmestie Caf Kt Laverna Klub
Divadlo West Bratislava. www.snd.sk
Nmestie SNP 14. Zmonick 11, Bratislava. Nmestie SNP 19,
www.divadlo-west.sk Slovak Tel (02) 54 43 49 57.
Bratislava.
Philharmonic
GUnaGU Orchestra Cirkus Barok
Sparx Disco Club
Na Frantiknskom Palackho 2, Bratislava. Rzusovo nbreie 2,
nmestie 7, Bratislava. Tel (02) 59 20 82 33. Bratislava. Cintornska 32.
Tel (02) 54 43 33 35. www.filharm.sk Tel (02) 54 64 20 91. www.sparx.sk
404 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

SPOR T AND LEISURE IN THE

CZECH REPUBLIC

V isitors to the Czech Republic can

find plenty of opportunities for
all kinds of leisure pursuits, and
it is possible to plan a whole trip here
around a particular activity. The
surroundings are spectacular. Natural
mineral spas have attracted visitors for
centuries, and many resorts, especially
in the west, are based around these
spas. Canoeing along Czech rivers is
mountains provide ideal areas for becoming increasingly popular, while
hiking and rock-climbing in summer, numerous reservoirs are suitable for
as well as being a paradise for snow sailing. There are also many oppor-
enthusiasts in winter. An interesting tunities for running, horse riding, golf
way to explore the country is by bicycle; and tennis. Tourist information offices
although the climbs can be steep, the have information on what is available.
maps for cyclists can be
obtained from bookshops.
There are no problems with
transporting a bicycle (kolo)
on a train.

SKIING AND
SNOWBOARDING

The most popular skiing

region is the Krkonoe
mountains, with its famous
ski jump in Harrachov. There
are also well-maintained ski
runs and lifts in the Jesenky
mountains in North Moravia,
the umava (see pp1489) in
South Bohemia and other
Hiking, a popular form of recreation in the Czech Republic areas. Cross-country skiing is
also widely enjoyed in the
HIKING CYCLING Czech Republic, with many
regions providing marked
The mountains and foothills Bicycles are plentiful in the routes for its enthusiasts.
offer many opportunities for Czech Republic. Numerous Snowboarding is growing in
hiking. Almost every region hotels and tourist resorts offer popularity and there are
has a dense network of bicycles for hire, and many facilities in major winter
marked trails, which makes it regions provide special sports resorts.
easy to reach destinations by marked trails for cyclists.
following the most interesting These are in addition to ROCK CLIMBING
routes. The many excellent international routes that run
hiking areas include the through the country. Special The country abounds in
umava (see pp1489), areas suitable for rock
Krkonoe (see pp2089) and climbing. The best known
the esk rj (see pp2067). A among them is the esk rj
great help to hikers are the (see pp2067), north of
Czech Hiking Club (Klub Prague, where keen climbers
eskch turist) hiking maps, will find numerous weathered
at a scale of 1:50,000, which sandstone rocks, with marked
include the marked trails climbing trails representing
and are available from most various degrees of difficulty.
Czech bookshops. Another region popular with
The most convenient and climbers is the Adrpach and
cheapest form of overnight Teplice Rocks (see p210) in
accommodation, particularly East Bohemia, close to the
in the mountains, are hostels Polish border. The tourist
and shelters (see p342). Some offices in these regions can
bus and train routes link with provide excellent information,
points along the trails, making Cyclists on a quiet rural road in the including details of
it easy to do a linear hike. Czech Republic mountaineering clubs.
 S P O R T A N D L E I S U R E 405

some of the medicinal treat-

ments on offer, which differ
from spa to spa. The Czech
Republics most famous spas
are in West Bohemia and
include Karlovy Vary (see
pp1745), Marinsk Lzn
(p169), and Frantikovy Lzn
(p172). There is also
Luhaovice in South Moravia
(p239), Teplice in North
Bohemia (p191), and Jesenk
in North Moravia (p221).

Canoeists on the Vltava, near Nova Pec, South Bohemia GOLF AND TENNIS

WATER ACTIVITIES SPAS Golf is gaining in popularity

here. Currently there are over
Many Czechs are water Spas have been popular for 100 golf clubs affiliated to the
sports enthusiasts, enjoying several hundred years (see Czech Golf Federation (esk
windsurfing, sailing, p174) and still have thousands Golfov Federace) and their
canoeing, swimming and of visitors annually. Visitors total membership is over
angling. This landlocked drink the often foul-tasting 20,000. Tennis courts can be
country has numerous lakes spa water, traditionally using a used, for a fee, in any town
and reservoirs offering special vessel called a becher that has a sports centre. Many
excellent conditions for these (see p371). They also bathe in hotels have tennis facilities,
sports, as well as many rivers. the warm waters, and undergo some open to non-residents.
Canoeing along turbulent
mountain rivers is a relatively
new sport here, with a
particularly good stretch on
the Labe (Elbe) in Krkonoe.
Equipment can be hired from
the many sport centres beside
every lake.
Fishing is highly regulated
so needs some planning.
Contact the Czech Fishing
Union (esk Rybsk Svaz)
for detailed information,
including times of seasons. Anglers on the shore of Lake Lipno in the umava, South Bohemia

DIRECTORY
HIKING elezn Ruda FISHING Luhaovice
Information Centre www.luhacovice.cz
Czech Hiking Club Czech Fishing
Javorsk 124, 340 04
Archeologick 2256/1, Union Marinsk Lzn
elezn Ruda, umava.
155 00 Prague 5. Nad Olinami 31, www.marianskelazne.cz
Tel 376 397 033.
Tel 251 610 181. 100 00 Prague 10.
Fax 376 397 033. Teplice
Tel 274 811 751.
www.kct.cz www.lazneteplice.cz
www.rybsvaz.cz
ROCK
SKIING CLIMBING GOLF AND TENNIS
SPAS
Czech Skiing esk rj Czech Spa Czech Golf
Association Information Information Federation
Ztopkova 2, Centre Masarykovo nmst 20, Strakonick 2860,
160 17 Prague 6. Nmst eskho 379 01 Tebo. 150 00 Prague 5. Tel 296
Tel 296 118 368. rje 26, 511 01 Turnov. Tel 384 750 838. 373 201. www.cgf.cz
Tel 481 366 255. www.spas.cz
Jesenky Tourist Czech Tennis
Fax 481 366 256. Frantikovy
Information Association
www.cesky-raj.info Lzn
Centre Ostrov tvanice 38,
Masarykovo nm. 1/167, Czech Climbing www.frantiskovylazne.cz 170 00 Prague 7.
790 01 Jesenk. Organization Karlovy Vary Tel 222 333 444.
Tel 584 498 155. www.czechclimbing.com www.karlovyvary.cz www.cztenis.cz
406 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

Spectator Sports in the

Czech Republic
The most popular spectator sport in the Czech Republic
is undoubtedly football. Matches played by the national
team as well as club matches are followed with great
interest. Since some individual Czech players have
been reasonably successful internationally, the Czechs
also like following foreign games. Attending a match or
watching live in a Czech pub is a memorable event.
Czechs are truly world class in ice hockey, and matches
often generate an emotional reaction from spectators.
Another sport with an enthusiastic following is Motocross, a sport with many
motorcycle racing; the Grand Prix competitions held in keen spectators
Brno are major international events.
clubs include HC Slavia Praha
and HC Sparta Praha. The ice
FOOTBALL hockey season is from
September to April.
The Czechs have always been
great fans of soccer, and in MOTORCYCLE SPORTS
recent years, following the
successes of their national The Czech Republic has been
team in European Champion- a manufacturer of quality
ships in Holland and Portugal, motorcyles for many decades,
their interest has grown even and motorcycle sports such as
further. The local clubs, such motocross and cinder-track
Czech tennis player Ji Novk as AC Sparta Praha, and FC racing are both avidly followed
Brno, are well known in here. The Czechs have some
TENNIS Europe. Some Czech players, high-class competitors and
such as Pavel Nedvd or Milan enjoy watching them battling.
Although some of the major Baro, who play for European Brno Grand Prix cinder-track
international Czech stars of clubs, are also famous. The races attract thousands of spec-
tennis, such as Martina season is from September to tators from all over Europe.
Navrtilov, Ivan Lendl and December and March to June.
Jana Novotn perhaps now DIRECTORY
have their greatest successes ICE HOCKEY
behind them, the sport still FOOTBALL
enjoys considerable Czech ice hockey players
popularity in the Czech can be seen on the Football Association of
Republic. As well as watching winners rostrum of virtually the Czech Republic
matches, many people like to every world championship Diskask 100,
play tennis, as can be seen by held in this sport. The 160 17 Praha 6.
the large numbers of tennis national team won gold in the Tel 233 029 111.
courts in towns and cities 1998 Winter Olympics. The Fax 233 353 107.
around the country. leading Czech ice hockey www.fotbal.cz

ICE HOCKEY

Czech Ice Hockey

Association
1. pluku 8-10,
186 00 Praha 8.
Tel 224 891 470.
Fax 233 336 096.
www.hokej.cz

MOTORCYCLE
SPORTS

Czech Autoclub
Na Stri, 1837 Praha 4.
Tel 261 104 279.
www.uamk-cr.cz
The Ice Hockey World Championships in Prague, 2004
 S P O R T A N D L E I S U R E 407

SPORT AND LEISURE

IN SLOVAKIA

S lovaks love all types of outdoor

activities and fresh-air pursuits and
their country is full of areas and
facilities devoted to amateur sports.
The favourite game year round is
hiking and bicycle touring, both
excellent ways to explore the
landscape. It is also possible to take
to the water on one of the many
lakes and rivers, which offer an
football, and athletics is also popular. exciting variety of conditions. People
In winter, ice hockey is enthusiastically wishing to pamper themselves could
pursued. In mountain sports skiing visit one of the Slovak health resorts
and ice climbing are the Slovaks and spas. Tourist offices are the
speciality. The country has a Young best places for information
well-developed infrastructure for skier about local leisure facilities.
populated border region of ROCK AND ICE CLIMBING
Lower Beskydy (Bukovsk
vrchy). One of the best-known The best mountaineering
riding events in Slovakia is area in Slovakia is the High
the annual Mengusovsk Tatras (see pp3167). The
Rodeo, held in the village of local hostels make excellent
Mengusovce, in the foothills bases for expeditions into the
of the Tatras mountains. upper regions of the moun-
tains. You can also practise
HIKING rock climbing in the Mal
Fatra, Slovensk raj and
A dense network of clearly Pieniny National Park (see
signposted walking trails p307). For ice climbing a
makes hiking relatively popular destination is the
straightforward, particularly in frozen waterfalls of the
Cross-country skiing, as popular the mountain regions. The Slovensk raj.
as downhill trails are marked with their
degree of difficulty, which is CAVE EXPLORATION
SKIING AND helpful when organizing an
SNOWBOARDING excursion. Maps at various Around 3,900 caves have
scales with the trails marked been found in Slovakia,
Slovakia has ideal conditions are widely available, as are mainly in the regions of the
and facilities for many English (and German) walking Slovensk raj, Slovensk kras
winter sports. The Slovak guides to the country. The (see pp3367), Low Tatras, and
Carpathians feature numerous most rewarding areas include Tatras. Twelve are open to
downhill runs and ski lifts. the High Tatras (see pp3167) visitors. The biggest known
The best-known ski resorts and the gentler Vihorlat cave system in Slovakia, which
are Jasn, which is south of range(see p332). Wear several is over 30 km (18 miles) long,
Liptovsk Mikul, and layers of warm clothing at all is in the Demnovsk valley,
Ruomberok, both in the times in the High Tatras. near Liptovsk Mikul.
Tatras mountains. In East
Slovakia there is Kojovsk
Hola near Koice. The lower
mountain ranges offer ideal
conditions for cross-country
skiing. Snowboarding can be
practised at all ski resorts.

HORSE RIDING

The popularity of equestrian

sports in Slovakia is on the
rise. New studs and riding
centres are springing up all
over the country, mainly near
large towns and in tourist
regions. The area that is the
most ideally suited for horse
riding is the sparsely Pony trekking in the region of Spi Castle, East Slovakia
408 T R AV E L L E R S N E E D S

CYCLING Bratislava. Mountain p300), Trenianske Teplice

canoeing enthusiasts can (see p301) and Bardejovske
Cycling holidays are certainly enjoy trips Kpele in East Slovakia.
rapidly gaining down the Danube, Some of them have relatively
popularity with the Hornad and Vh small bathing facilities in the
Slovaks. As part of the rivers, as well as on form of single pools (often in
European cycle network, the artificial canoe historic buildings); others
Slovakia has marked course in Liptovsk have large complexes or even
cycling routes that Mikul. The Dunajec vast aquaparks.
cover about 3,500 km Gorge in Pieniny
(2,175 miles) and this National Park is a GOLF AND TENNIS
network is being beautiful and popular
constantly extended. spot for both rafting Golf has become very popu-
Mountainous areas and canoeing lar in Slovakia over the past
offer strenuous but (see p317). couple of years. There are
rewarding cycling, beautiful courses in the High
while the going is Cycling in SPAS Tatras (Black Stork), in Cen-
easier along the Slovakia tral Slovakia (Gray Bear) and
Danube, or following Slovakia is famed around Bratislava (Black
the Vh river valley, and in for its mineral and River, Welten and Skalica).
the East Slovakian Lowlands. medicinal springs, boasting Tennis is a fairly popular
numerous modern resorts sport in Slovakia. You can
WATER ACTIVITIES with a range of effective find tennis courts at sports
treatments and therapies on centres in larger towns, also
Although Slovakia is a offer to a local and at hotels and recreation
landlocked country with no international clientele. centres in tourist resorts and
large lakes, watersports The best-known Slovak spas. Many are open to
enthusiasts can enjoy resorts include Pietany (see visitors and non-residents.
themselves on dammed reser-
voirs, many of which have
jetties and equipment hire
facilities. The most popular
Slovak artificial lakes include
Liptovska Mara and Slava on
the Vh, near Pietany.
White-water rafting can be
experienced on the Bel river,
and also on stretches of the
Vh. The longest artificial
rafting run in Central Europe
is situated in uo, near Messing about in a boat on a lagoon near Koice, East Slovakia

DIRECTORY
SKIING AND HIKING CYCLING Pietany. Tel (033) 775
SNOWBOARDING 77 33. Fax (033) 775 77
High Tatras Slovak Cycling 39. www.piestany-spa.sk
Jasn www.tatry.sk Association
Nzke Tatry (Low Tatras). Tel (02) 44 45 67 52. Slovak Spas
Tel 0907 886 644. ROCK CLIMBING www.cyklistikaszc.sk www.slovakia-spa.sk
www.jasna.sk Slovensk Lieebn
Climbing Routes
SPAS Kpele Trenianske
Skipark www.tatry.nfo.sk
Kojovsk Hola Teplice
International Bardejovsk Kpele
914 51 Trenianske-Teplice.
Letn 42, 040 01 Koice. Mountaineering 086-31 Bardejovsk Kpele.
Tel (032) 655 22 88.
Tel (055) 489 83 91. & Climbing Tel (054) 477 44 70.
Fax (032) 655 29 60.
Federation Fax (054) 472 35 49.
Skipark Ruomberok www.slktn.sk
www.theuiaa.org www.kupele-bj.sk
Hrabovsk cesta 1679/31,
Ruomberok. Mountain Rescue Kpele Rajeck GOLF
Tel /Fax (044) 432 26 06. Tel 527 87 77 11. Teplice
www.skipark.sk
Slovak Golf Union
www.hzs.sk Tel (041) 549 42 56.
www.skga.sk
Fax (041) 549 36 74.
Ski Park Vyn Tel (02) 4445 07 27.
CAVE www.spa.sk
Rubachy www.international.sk
EXPLORATION
Vyn Rubachy 333. Slovak Health Spa www.tale.sk
Tel 0903 616 003. Cave Locations Pietany, Inc. www.golfskalica.sk
www.skiparkvruzbachy.sk www.ssj.sk Winterova 29, 921 29 www.golf.sk
 S P O R T A N D L E I S U R E 409

Spectator Sports in Slovakia

Sport is a very important part of life for the Slovaks.
This can be clearly seen in the impressive numbers of
sports centres and facilities. The expansion of the
sports infrastructure has resulted in a substantial
increase in the successes achieved by Slovaks in the
highest ranking international events, including world
championships and Olympic Games. The disciplines in
which they excel, and which are most closely followed
by spectators, are ice hockey, soccer and tennis.
Canoeing and kayaking also draw the crowds.
Michal Martikn in the Olympic
FOOTBALL slalom canoeing race, Athens, 2004

This is the second most OTHER SPORTS

popular sport in Slovakia. Up
to now, however, the greatest Slovak competitors are also
achievement of Slovak players successful in sports such as
in the international arena has swimming, shooting and
been when FC Artmedia mountain canoeing. Michal
Petralka (from near Martikn has won three Olym-
Bratislava) reached the UEFA pic medals in slalom canoeing.
Champions League in 2005. Tennis is another popular
game. The most successful
Miroslav atan, captain of the SKIING AND current players are Luk
Slovak national ice hockey team SNOWBOARDING Lacko, Martin Klian, Daniela
Hantuchov, Dominika
ICE HOCKEY Slovaks are very proud of Cibulkov and Magdalna
their prowess in snow sports. Rybrikov. Major tourna-
The national sport of the Slovak skiers are starting to ments are held at the National
Slovaks is ice hockey. In fact, score international successes Tennis Centre in Bratislava.
the professional players who in Alpine and Classic skiing.
won the ice hockey world The most recent star is the DIRECTORY
championship in 2002 for young Alpine skier Veronika
their country are regarded as Zuzulova, hailed as the future ICE HOCKEY
real heroes. The legends of of Slovak skiing. The top
Slovak ice hockey are: Stan Slovak cross-country skier is Slovensk zvz
Mikita, Peter tastny, Vclav Ivan Batory. Snowboarders are ladovho hokeja
Nedomansky, Vladimir also doing well, with Juncka 6,
Dzurila and Josef Golonka. Radoslav Zidek winning a 832 80 Bratislava.
Many Slovak players play silver medal in the snowboard Tel (02) 492 49 179.
regularly in the North cross event (downhill Fax (02) 442 58 344.
American National Hockey snowboard racing) at the
www.szlh.sk
League (NHL). 2006 Winter Olympics.
FOOTBALL

Slovak Football
Association
Juncka 6,
832 80 Bratislava.
Tel (02) 492 49 161.
Fax (02) 492 49 595.
www.futbalsfz.sk

SKIING

Slovak Ski Association

Juncka 6,
832 80 Bratislava.
Tel (02) 492 49 208.
Fax (02) 492 49 565.
www.slz.sk
Veronika Zuzulova, successful Slovak skier
 SURVIVAL
GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 412423

TRAVEL INFORMATION 424431
412 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

T he Czech and Slovak visitors to these countries. Once

Republics are both you have arrived, a well-
very friendly desti- developed network of
nations for visitors, tourist information
attracted by the architec- offices, which in both
ture as well as the natural Tourist bus belonging to the Czech countries can be found in
beauty of the High Tatras. company Martin Tours even quite small places,
Numerous historic sights provides invaluable help
and attractions, good roads, efficient to travellers. The practical information
internal transport, tasty local food and below and opposite concerns the Czech
a wide choice of accommodation result Republic; pages 41415 give practical
in the steadily growing numbers of information on visiting Slovakia.
WHEN TO VISIT THE VISA AND
CZECH REPUBLIC CUSTOMS
REGULATIONS
The best time of year
for visiting the country is Citizens of EU
between May and September. countries do not need
During these months the a visa when entering
warm weather makes for the Czech Republic;
pleasant camping, mountain it is enough to carry
trekking and relaxing by or a passport (valid for
swimming in lakes and rivers. at least 6 months
Some castles, museums and beyond your return
other historic sights, date) or an ID card.
particularly in small towns EU, New Zealand,
and villages, open their doors Australian, US and
to visitors only during this Canadian citizens A tourist information office, Tbor
high season. can stay for up to 90
During school holidays days. For up-to-date informa- New Zealand and the
(July and August) campsites tion, consult your nearest Canadian Embassy in Prague
and some resorts tend to fill Czech Embassy (or visit also cover Slovakia.
up, so it is better to visit in www.mfa.cz).
May, June or September if Customs regulations do not TOURIST INFORMATION
you want to avoid the apply to visitors from within
crowds. Prague in particular is the EU as long as they stay The Czech Republic has a
inundated with visitors in July within the EU guidelines for very efficient network of
and August and can be personal use. tourist information offices,
unbearably crowded. which can be found in almost
Late September is an EMBASSIES every town, village and resort.
interesting time to visit In large cities they are usually
Moravia for its grape harvest For selected embassies in in railway stations; otherwise
season. In winter many the Czech Republic, see the they are often in the town
regions of the Czech Republic directory opposite. The square. They are open from
offer good snow conditions. consulates for Australia and 9am to 5pm (7pm in Prague)
and provide information on
accommodation, eating places,
museums, art galleries and
historic sights; they also offer
free booklets and sell maps,
guidebooks and postcards.
Staff can usually speak fluent
German and good English.
It is worthwhile contacting
a Czech tourist office where
you live before leaving to
help plan your trip.
Visit their excellent website
(www.czechtourism.com/eng/
uk/docs/holiday-tips/news/
index.html for the latest
happenings and events that
Charles Bridge in Prague a popular destination all year round may coincide with your visit.
View from the Vltava to Pragues National Theatre
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 413

Public Transport Offices have

a list of wheelchair-accessible
transport (www.dpp.cz).

LANGUAGE

While many people in Prague

speak English, knowledge of
English in the provinces is
minimal, and so it is useful to
know some Czech basics. The
most popular greeting is
dobry den (good day), or in
the morning dobre rano
Horse-drawn transport in Karlovy Vary, West Bohemia (good morning). When
parting you can say ahoj
BUSINESS HOURS people). In smaller places the (cheers), or na shledanou
keys to buildings may be with (goodbye) or nashle. (see also
Most banks and offices are a custodian (often a private Phrasebook, pp4478.)
open from 9am to 5pm; some individual); a notice on the
have a lunch break. (For shop door says who to contact. MEASURES AND
opening hours, see p396.) ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES
ADMISSION PRICES
MUSEUMS AND The Czech Republic uses the
HISTORIC SIGHTS Admission to museums and metric system. The mains
historic sights outside the voltage is 220230 volts.
Between May and September capital is not expensive, cost- Standard Continental European
museums in most large Czech ing around 4060K. Children two-pin plugs are used.
towns are open Tuesday to over six and students are
Sunday from 9am to 6pm. generally given a discount of DIRECTORY
From October to April many 3050 per cent, while under
open from 9am to 5pm, sixes are often free. Expect EMBASSIES AND
sometimes changing to higher ticket prices in Prague. CONSULATES
Monday to Friday. In smaller IN THE CZECH REPUBLIC
towns many museums are TRAVELLING WITH
open only from May to CHILDREN Australian Consulate
October, 9am4pm, or 5pm; Klimentsk 10, 110 00 Prague 1.
some open only at weekends. Children are welcomed, Tel 296 578 350, 296 578 351.
Other sights, such as castles, although there are few
British Embassy
churches, convents and mon- facilities (such as play areas)
asteries, are open to visitors specifically for them. There Thunovsk 14, 118 00 Prague 1.
from May to September, Tues- are, however, plenty of open Tel 257 402 370.
day to Sunday 9am4pm, or spaces in which children can Canadian Embassy
5pm. Many close for lunch let off steam. (For eating with Muchova 6, 160 00 Prague 6.
between noon and 1pm. In children, see p367.) Tel 272 101 800.
April and October some pro-
vincial sights are open only at DISABLED TRAVELLERS New Zealand Consulate
weekends; from November to Dykova 19, 101 00 Prague 10.
April many are closed, though Despite some improvements, Tel 222 514 672.
a few can be visited by the Czech Republic is still not
appointment. Many historic that easy to negotiate for US Embassy
sights can be visited only by disabled travellers. In some Trit 15, 118 01 Prague 1.
guided tours (at least five places, particularly in Prague, Tel 257 530 663; 257 532 716.
there are hotels, restaurants,
bars, museums and historic IN THE SLOVAK REPUBLIC
sights that have been adapted
British Embassy
to the needs of the disabled.
Pansk 16, 811 01 Bratislava.
However, in many towns and
cities, the prevalence of Tel (02) 59 98 20 00.
cobbles means that wheelchair Canadian Embassy
users will find getting about Hotel Carlton, Mostrova 2,
uncomfortable, but possible. Bratislava. Tel (02) 59 20 40 31.
Accessible public transport is
patchy. A number of railway US Embassy
stations and trains, and some Hviezdoslavovo nmestie 4,
of the capitals metro stations 811 02 Bratislava.
Tickets to some of the main tourist and newer buses, do have Tel (02) 54 43 08 61.
sights in Prague wheelchair access. The Prague
414 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

same type of services. These

may sell parking permits and
local discount cards for tour-
ists; they may also exchange
foreign currencies. In some of
these centres (although still
very few) it is possible to
book hotel accommodation.
Unfortunately, almost none of
the maps, guidebooks and
information brochures that
can be obtained from tourist
information offices are free;
the best you can hope to be
given for free are a few
pamphlets.
Tourist bus in Bratislavas Old Town Tourist information offices
are usually open 9am to 5pm,
WHEN TO VISIT for each day of their occasionally until 4pm or
SLOVAKIA intended stay (children up to 6pm. Some of them close for
the age of 16 need half this an hour at lunchtime. On Sat-
Slovakia is an attractive amount). This rule is, urdays many such offices
destination for visitors however, applied to EU close at 1pm, and on Sundays
throughout the year. Spring citizens only in exceptional many remain closed all day.
and autumn are good times circumstances. The sum may Their staff usually speak
for mountain hikes, bike be reduced on the English and German.
tours and cave exploration. presentation of documents Slovak tourist offices
Summertime is excellent for confirming advance payment outsiside Slovakia are few and
swimming in the numerous for some services, such as far between, but it is worth
pools and bathing centres hotel bookings or car hire. consulting websites such as
(ordinary and thermal) and At customs, as in the Czech www.slovakia.travel or www.
for enjoying water sports on Republic, EU nationals can infoslovak.sk for information
its artificial lakes. In winter, bring into Slovakia the maxi- when planning your trip.
Slovakia tempts visitors with mum allowed within the EU
its excellent ski slopes, and guidelines for personal use.
more unusual attractions
such as swimming in EMBASSIES
outdoor thermal pools.
Those interested in visiting For selected embassies in
museums, open-air museums the Slovak Republic, see the
(skansens) and castles directory (p413). There are
should bear in mind that British, US and Canadian
from October to May many embassies in Bratislava.
of them are closed, particu- Australian visitors to the
larly those situated in the Slovak Republic are covered
provinces. However, sights by the Australian embassy
in Bratislava and other large in Vienna, while New
towns generally remain open Zealanders are covered
throughout the year. by the New Zealand
embassy in Berlin. A branch of the Prague Information
VISA AND CUSTOMS Service in Staromstsk nmst
REGULATIONS TOURIST INFORMATION
MUSEUMS AND
Nationals of EU countries Local tourist information cen- HISTORIC SIGHTS
are admitted to Slovakia on tres provide details on accom-
presenting a valid passport modation, the regions natural Slovakia has numerous
or an ID Card, but if they attractions, also its cultural interesting historic sites from
intend to remain in the and sporting events. The most various eras: from the Neo-
country for more than 90 reliable information can be lithic and Bronze Ages to
days, they are required to obtained from any of the 49 relatively recent times. In
report to the police and AICES affiliated offices (Aso- most towns you can find
apply for a residents permit. cicia informanch centier regional, historic or local
Foreigners entering the Slovenska), with their head museums. These often open
Slovak Republic have to carry office in Liptovsk Mikul all year from 9am to 5pm,
56.40, or the equivalent in (www.infoslovak.sk or www. though they may open
any convertible currency, in aices.sk). In addition, many Tuesday to Sunday in
the form of travellers places have their own infor- summer and Monday to
cheques, cash or credit cards, mation centres providing the Friday in winter.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 415

buildings are gradually being

adapted to the needs of
disabled users. (For access
in hotels, see p343; for
restaurants, see p367.)

LANGUAGE

Slovakias official language is

Slovak, commonly spoken by
about 86 per cent of the
population. In the countrys
southern region, with its
Hungarian minority (about
Waiting to get started at a ski school 10 per cent of the population),
the signs and names of places
The most interesting open-air TRAVELLING WITH are given in both Slovak
museums (skansens) exhibit- CHILDREN and Hungarian. Bilingual
ing traditional rural buildings, signs can also be seen in
can be found in the countrys Slovakia is a child-friendly northeastern regions
northern regions, in Martin- country. Public parks feature inhabited by, amongst others,
Jahodnky (from all over many playgrounds; there are the Ruthenian (Ukrainian)
Slovakia), Zuberec (Orava), also childrens play areas in minority. You can also
Stara Lubova (Spi), Svidnk some supermarkets. The most communicate in Czech
(Ukrainian-Ruthenian) and attractive places are the anywhere in Slovakia without
Humenn (Zempln). The numerous swimming pools, any problem. In towns and
historic villages of imany with ordinary and thermal tourist resorts a knowledge
and Vlkolnec enjoy the status pools. The countrys best- of English and German is
of living skansens. Opening known aquapark is Tatraland- reasonably widespread.
hours vary, with some staying ia, near Liptovsk Mikul. Its
open all year and others only competitor is the ever- MEASURES AND
during the summer months. expanding Aquacity park in ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES
Many Slovak castles and Poprad. Children are also sure
historic buildings are open to enjoy the zoos in Slovakia uses the metric
from May to September, Tues- Bratislava, Bojnice, Koice system. The mains voltage is
day to Sunday from 9am to and Spisk Nov Ves. 220230 volts. Standard
5pm, closing for an hour for The youngest travellers can Continental European two-
lunch. They open at weekends expect generous discounts in pin plugs are used.
in April and October. Some hotels, as well as on public
close completely from Novem- transport; for example, a child LOCAL TIME
ber to March. Opening hours up to the age of six travels
of major sights are listed in free on Slovak railways. Slovakias clocks are set to
this guide. Many can be seen Central-European time
only on a guided tour; ask if DISABLED TRAVELLERS (GMT + 1), that is, the same
there is an English guide as as most of the countries of
tours are usually in Slovak. Facilities for disabled visitors Continental Europe. As in
Some large churches and are limited in Slovakia. Many neighbouring countries, the
cathedrals open on the same of the trains have wheelchair clocks are put forward by
basis as museums. Others are access to at least one one hour on the last Sunday
open only during services. At carriage, but it is often in March (summer time) and
other times, seek admission difficult to negotiate the back again by one hour on
from the local caretaker or station itself in order to the last Sunday in October
priest, whose address is often reach the train. Many older (winter time).
given on the door.

ADMISSION PRICES

Museum entrance fees are not

high in Slovakia they vary
from 2 to 4, with conces-
sion tickets for children and
students at around 1. A few
major castles charge more. At
Bojnice, for instance, a stand-
ard ticket costs 5.70, and
concessions are 2.90. At
Orava a standard ticket is 7,
while a concession is 3.50. Children playing in front of Grassalkovich Palace, Bratislava
416 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health in

the Czech Republic
The Czech Republic is a relatively safe country. Outside
the capital, thefts and muggings are rare, and therefore
it is safe to walk the streets even late at night.
However, in Prague it is wise to be more safety
conscious as pickpockets often target visitors, but even
here the situation is better than in many other large
European urban areas.

GUARDING AGAINST
THEFT

In large towns, and particular-

ly in Prague, in crowded A historic pharmacy in the town of
places (such as Prague Castle Klatovy, West Bohemia
or the metro) you should be
on the alert for pickpockets. PHARMACIES
Always keep your money and
documents in a safe place For minor ailments and
and out of view, and be extra accidents you can turn for
vigilant if anyone seems to be advice to the nearest
crowding you. At night it is pharmacy (lekrna).
best not to carry large Pharmacies may be found in
amounts of money on you. If large towns. They are
a hotel safe is available, keep generally open on weekdays
valuables locked away. Make from 8am until 6pm, and on
a photocopy of your passport Saturdays until 2pm. You will
and write down credit card find 24-hour pharmacies only
A black A police numbers. Cars parked in the in major cities.
sheriff officer street are generally safe, but
you should not leave luggage DIRECTORY
POLICE or valuable objects in view.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
The Czech police (policie) HEALTH CARE Ambulance Tel 155.
wear black uniforms with the
Police Tel 158.
silver police emblem There is a fair standard
displayed on the chest. Like of health care in the Czech Municipal Police Tel 156.
everywhere, they attend to Republic, and medical help Fire Brigade Tel 150.
safety on the streets and can be obtained anywhere in
roads and pursue criminals. the country without any Roadside Assistance Tel 154.
They drive white cars with a problems. In emergencies and Emergency Operator (English)
green stripe and the word in life-threatening situations, Tel 112.
Policie along the side. EU nationals with an EHIC
Large towns also have muni- card are entitled to receive
cipal police (mstsk policie), free medical treatment, but in MEDICAL HELP
who deal with illegal parking. all other cases hospitalization
A special police branch is or medical help has to be Adults Emergencies
responsible for border paid for. It is advisable to Mstsk Poliklinika Splen 12.
control. Black sheriffs are take out travel insurance to Tel 222 924 295.
private security guards. cover any medical costs
If you have a crime to report, incurred abroad. The water is Childrens Emergencies
the municipal police should safe to drink, but mineral
Veobecn FN Ke Karlovu 2.
be your first point of contact. water is more palatable.
Ask for a translator if no Map 6 D4. Tel 224 967 777.
English is spoken.
Dental Emergencies
Mstsk Poliklinika Splen 12.
Tel 222 924 268.

24-Hour Pharmacy
Pohotovostn Lekrna Palackho 5.
Tel 224 946 982.
Czech police car
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 417

Personal Security and Health

in Slovakia
In Slovakia, crime that is directed at tourists remains
relatively rare, and Slovaks are peaceful people,
who try to solve any disagreements by way of
negotiation rather than open confrontation.
Nevertheless, as in other countries it is always
advisable to follow a few basic rules of safety,
particularly if you are in a large city.

POLICE leave money, cameras, or any

other valuables in view.
The police patrol the Make a photocopy of your
streets on foot (in large town passport and write down
centres) or travel in marked credit card numbers, and
radio-cars. Some towns also keep valuables that you dont
have a municipal police need on a daily basis locked Slovak Slovak municipal
(mestsk polcia). away in the safe if you are policeman police officer
In a threatening situation, staying in a hotel.
contact the police (Policajn PHARMACIES
zbor Slovenskej republiky, HEALTH CARE
PZ SR) by calling the Pharmacies (lekare) can be
emergency numbers, or by In emergencies and in life- found in all towns and larger
going immediately to a local threatening situations EU villages. In minor
police station (Obvodn nationals with an EHIC emergencies their staff will
oddelenie PZ SR), to the card are entitled to recommend suitable
district command receive free medication. They are
(Okresn riadi- medical treatment, generally open 8am6pm. In
tielstvo PZ SR) or but in all other larger towns there is usually a
to the regional cases hospital- pharmacy open 24 hours.
command (Krajsk ization or medical
riaditelstvo help has to be DIRECTORY
PZ SR). paid for. The cost of
Slovak pharmacy a visit to a doctor is EMERGENCY NUMBERS
GUARDING sign about 13. A one-day
AGAINST THEFT stay in hospital costs Emergency Operator Tel 112.
about 40, to which you have Ambulance Tel 112, 155.
The best way to protect to add the cost of examina-
Police Tel 112, 158.
yourself against losing tions, tests, medicines and
documents, cash or other transport. Fire Brigade Tel 112, 150.
valuables is to take a few It is best to take out travel Municipal Police Tel 159.
basic precautions, particularly insurance providing good
in crowded places. Keep your cover, and if you do need to Mountain Rescue Tel 18 300.
money in a safe place, out of claim, keep all documentation.
view. On public transport you Foreigners travelling to MEDICAL HELP
should pay attention to any Slovakia do not require any
unexpected and unforced immunizations or Dental Emergencies
contacts or collisions with vaccinations. The water is
Drieov 38, Bratislava.
other passengers. It is also safe to drink, but mineral
unwise to sleep on the train if water, which is more pleasant Tel (02) 43 42 34 33.
you are travelling to drink, is widely available.
alone. In a Adults Emergencies
parked car Strenianska 13, Bratislava.
do not
Tel (02) 63 83 31 30.

Childrens Emergencies
Limbov 1, Bratislava.
Tel (02) 59 37 11 11.

24-hour Pharmacy
Ruinovsk 12, Bratislava.
Tel (02) 48 21 10 11.
Slovak ambulance
418 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banks and Currency in the DIRECTORY

Czech Republic MAIN BRANCHES
OF BANKS
The Czech currency is the Czech
crown. Although the republic is part of esk Nrodn Banka
the EU, the euro is not generally (Czech National Bank)
accepted, particularly outside Prague. Na pkop 28, Prague.
The best way to take money with you Map 3 C4.
Bureau de
change sign
is in the form of a debit card, and to Tel 224 411 111.
draw out the money you need as you www.cnb.cz
go along. In this way you can avoid carrying large Rooseveltova 18,
sums with you, and, by using ATMs you can withdraw 601 10 Brno.
money outside banking hours. Banks and bureaus de Tel 542 137 111.
change also change money.
esk spoitelna
ATMS at edok travel agents, who Rytsk 10, Prague.
also charge 2 per cent com- Map 3 C4.
There is a wide network of mission. Private bureaus de Tel 221 46 08 01.
ATMs, which can be found change sometimes add higher www.csas.cz
even in small towns. Most of commission charges, and the
them accept foreign cards, rate of exchange is often eskoslovensk
such as MasterCard, VisaPlus, much less favourable than Obchodn Banka
Visa Electron or Cirrus/ that offered by banks. It is not Na pkop 18, Prague.
Maestro. You can use these to worth changing money in Map 3 C4.
withdraw cash as you need it. hotels, which offer the worst
Tel 261 356 711.
rate of exchange.
BANKS AND You should also not www.csob.cz
BUREAUS DE change money with GE Money Bank
CHANGE street touts. They Opletalova 4, Prague.
generally do not
Map 4 D5.
Every town has a offer better rates
branch of the major than the banks, and Tel 224 490 631.
banks such as often try to cheat ww.gemoney.cz
Komern Banka or visitors by handing
Komern Banka
esk Spoitelna (at them forged
the post office), banknotes. Splen 51, Prague.
where you can Map 3 B5.
exchange money. CREDIT CARDS Tel 955 547 371.
The rate used is the ATM in Louna www.kb.cz
exchange rate Credit cards can
labelled valuty nkup (we be used to pay in upmarket Unicredit Bank
buy). Banks are generally hotels and restaurants, and in Revolun 7, Prague.
open Monday to Friday, from large shops. In the provinces Map 4 D2.
9am until 5pm. The many small shops do not Tel 221 119 768.
commission on exchanging accept credit cards, so it is www.unicreditbank.cz
money is usually 2 per cent. always advisable to carry
Money can also be changed some cash. MAIN BRANCHES OF
BUREAUS DE CHANGE

American Express
Vclavsk nmst 56, Prague.
Map 3 C5.
Tel 57 53 32 47.
www.aexp.com

Interchange
Mosteck 5, Prague.
Map 3 C4.
Tel 257 531 580.
www.interchange.cz

Western Union
Jindisk 7. Tel 24 22 29 54.
www.westernunion.cz
Modern building of the Czech National Bank, in Ust nad Labem
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 419

TRAVELLERS CHEQUES type. Some major hotels in is always preferable to carry

large towns will also accept lower denominations of
If you wish to avoid carrying payment by travellers cheque. Czech banknotes because
large sums of money with many smaller establishments
you, you can buy travellers CURRENCY may find it difficult to give
cheques before leaving home, change for a 1,000, 2,000 or
and then cash them on arrival The countrys monetary unit 5,000K note.
or as you travel. The most is the Czech crown
popular cheques in the Czech (K), which is divided
Republic are American into 100 hellers. When
Express and Citicorp, but you are touring small
larger banks will accept any towns and villages, it
Banknotes
Czech banknotes are in denomi-
nations of 20, 50, 100, 200, 500,
1,000, 2,000 and 5,000K. 20K note

50K note

100K note

200K note

500K note

1,000K note

2,000K note

5,000K note

50 crowns (50K) 20 crowns (20K) 10 crowns (10K) 5 crowns (5K) 2 crowns (2K)

Coins
Czech coins come in the following denominations:
50 hellers and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 crowns (K).
All coins have the Czech emblem (a lion rampant)
on the reverse.
1 crown (1K) 50 hellers
420 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banks and Currency in Slovakia DIRECTORY

The national currency of Slovakia is the euro, which MAIN BRANCHES OF
replaced the Slovak Koruna in 2009. The largest of the SELECTED BANKS
Slovak banks accept travellers cheques, which can also
Slovensk sporitela
be cashed in the bureaus de change found in tourist
Central Office
areas and cities. ATMs can be found everywhere. Also,
increasing numbers of services and retail outlets accept Tomikova 48,
credit card payments. Most Slovak banks also change Bratislava.
money. In large shopping malls, particularly in the Tel (02) 58 26 81 11.
bigger cities, you will find branches of banks open www.slsp.sk
until 8 or 9pm.
Branches
Nmestie SNP 18,
ATMS TRAVELLERS CHEQUES Bratislava.
Tel 0850 111 888.
Credit- or debit-card Travellers cheques issued
holders will find ATMs by Thomas Cook, American Fax (02) 58 26 86 70.
installed outside virtually Express and Visa are
every bank and operating 24 accepted at branches of Such Mto 6,
hours; they accept Maestro, VB, Tatra Banka, Bratislava.
MasterCard, Visa, Diners Club, Slovensk sporitela, and in
American Express, selected bureaus Tel 0850 111 888.
and other cards. de change. Their Fax (02) 58 26 86 70.
Before withdrawing commission is
money from an usually about Pribinova 4,
ATM, find out the 1per cent of the
Koice.
rate of commission cheques face
charged by the value and the Tel 0850 111 888.
bank for the service. lowest com- Fax (02) 58 26 86 70.
missions are
BANKS charged on US Tatra Banka
dollar and pound Central Office
In towns and large ATM in Skalica sterling cheques. Hodovo nmestie 3, Bratislava.
tourist resorts there Tel (02) 59 19 11 11.
are no problems CREDIT CARDS
www.tatrabanka.sk
with finding a bank for
changing or withdrawing Credit cards are accepted at
money. The most frequently petrol stations, larger shops Branches
encountered are branches of and most hotels. The number Zohorsk 1, Bratislava.
large banks: Volksbank, of places in Slovakia that
Nmestie SNP 21, Bratislava.
Slovensk sporitela, VB, accept plastic money is
Tatra Banka and OTP. Slovak growing all the time, however, Vajanskho nbr. 5, Bratislava.
banks are generally open as with the Czech Republic, Rooseveltova 1, Koice.
from 8am to 5pm (the smaller in the provinces many small Doln 2, Bansk Bystrica.
the town, the earlier the clos- shops do not accept credit Hlavn 108, Koice.
ing time). Sometimes they cards, so it is always advisable
Hlavn 9, Trnava,
close for an hour for lunch. to carry some cash.
Nmestie SV Egdia 95, Poprad.

SELECTED BRANCHES OF
BUREAUS DE CHANGE

DT Zmenre
Miletiova 17.
Tel 0902 610 791.

Scars
Hviezdoslavova 21, Zvolen.
Tel & Fax (045) 533 33 30.
www.scars.sk

Zmenre Aurika
Nmestie sv. Egdia 22, Poprad.
Tel 0908 844 818.
Bank faade in Bansk Bystrica
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 421

THE EURO Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the and coins coming into cir-
Netherlands, Portugal, culation. A very short transi-
Sixteen member states of the Slovakia, Slovenia and Spain tion period of only two
EU have now replaced their have all chosen to join the weeks allowed euros and the
traditional currencies with a new currency; the UK, Slovak koruna to be used
single European currency, the Denmark and Sweden have simultaneously. All euro notes
euro. Austria, Belgium, stayed out. The euro was and coins can be used
Cyprus, Finland, France, introduced in Slovakia on 1 anywhere inside the
Germany, Greece, Ireland, January 2009, with notes participating member states.

Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The 5 note
(grey in colour) is the smallest,
followed by the 10 note (pink),
20 note (blue), 50 note (orange),
100 note (green), 200 note
(yellow) and 500 note (purple).
All notes show the stars of 5 euros
the European Union.

10 euros

20 euros

50 euros

100 euros

200 euros

500 euros

2 euros 1 euro 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents

Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations:
1 and 2; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents,
5 cents, 2 cents and 1 cent. The 2 and
1 coins are both silver and gold in colour.
The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins are gold.
The 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent
422 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Telephone and Mail Services MAIL SERVICES

in the Czech Republic At a post office you can
send a letter or parcel, make
Telephone and mail services in the Czech Republic are a telephone call and buy
very efficient. Every town and large village has a post postage stamps (znmky).
office and public telephones can be found even in The latter are also sold at
small villages and are usually in good order. Post news kiosks. A postage stamp
offices are similarly widespread and efficient, delivering for a postcard to any EU
international mail reliably. Internet access is springing country costs 17K. It is best
up in many locations so should not be a problem. to send international parcels
from main offices. Czech
letter boxes are painted
working order, but it is better orange. At the main post
to avoid the few remaining office in every large town
coin-operated telephones, as (marked Pota 1), you can
they do not work very well. use the poste restante service
The call tariffs from public for receiving mail; you need
telephones vary depending to present your passport to
on the distance (local or long- collect any letters. Post offices
distance calls) and the time of also offer a money exchange
day. One minute of an inter- service. Their opening hours
national call costs between 10 are 7am to 7pm on weekdays,
and 20K. Calls can also be and 7am to noon on Saturdays.
made from hotel rooms but
charges are often much higher.

MOBILE PHONES

If you wish to use your own

Public telephone kiosk mobile phone, you need to
arrange for a roaming service
USING PUBLIC with your operator before
TELEPHONES leaving home. Mobile phone Logo of the Czech Post Office,
operators in the Czech a post horn
The landline telephone net- Republic include Eurotel,
work in the Czech Republic is Oskar and T-mobile. INTERNET AND E-MAIL
run by esk Telecom.
Yellow kiosks marked with CZECH NUMBERS All towns have at least one
the companys logo contain Internet caf, where you can
card-operated telephones; the All numbers consist of nine access the Internet and send
cards can be bought at post digits and the area code is an e-mails. Ask at the local
offices and newsstands. If you integral part of the telephone tourist office for the nearest if
are travelling to remote number. Even when making a you cannot find one. Many
villages, take a phonecard call from within a town, it is hotels also offer Internet
with you as they may be hard necessary to dial the area code. access, sometimes free and,
to find. Their price varies from If you experience problems in larger business hotels,
150 to 300K. Most public with getting through, it is likely wireless. Prices for access
telephones are kept in good that the number has changed. are generally reasonable; the
connections are fast, so that
USING A PHONECARD TELEPHONE IN THE fans of web surfing can
CZECH REPUBLIC indulge in their favourite
pastime without any problems.

USEFUL NUMBERS
2 The message
Vlote telefonni
1 Lift the
receiver and
wait for the
kartu tells you to
insert the card into
Dial these prefixes
before the Czech
dialling tone. the slot. The display number when calling
shows you the credit from abroad: from the
left on your card.
UK and Ireland 00420;
from USA and Canada
4 The card is
ejected
3 When the words
Volte islo appear,
dial and wait to be
011420; from Australia
and New Zealand
automatically connected.
when it runs 0011420.
out. Directory enquiries: 1180
By pressing this red
button you can hear
International info: 1181.
Emergency numbers instructions in English.
 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 423

Telephone and Mail Services

in Slovakia
Slovak telephone and mail services are widely available
and efficient. Public phones are mostly in good
working order, and there are generally no problems
with making a call, local or international. Post offices
can be found in all towns and larger villages. The
number of Internet cafs is steadily increasing; they are
mostly situated in the centres of large towns.

USING TELEPHONES SLOVAK NUMBERS

The payphones in Slovakia The Slovak telephone network Slovak news kiosk, one of many
are both coin and card- is currently undergoing selling telephone cards
operated. The service is quick modernization, which can
and efficient, but not all make life harder when you parcel up to 2 kg (4.4 lb)
public telephones allow for are trying to get a connection. costs 4; an international
international calls. Those that Three-digit area codes have package up to 1 kg (2.2 lb) in
do not allow been introduced weight costs 25.
outgoing calls to (the first digit is As in the Czech Republic, a
international and always 0), and poste restante service is avail-
mobile numbers when making a able in the main post office
are marked with long-distance (Pota 1) in each major town.
an orange call you should You will need your passport
sticker. If you are dial the area in order to collect your mail.
in doubt, seek code of the town
advice at a post or the region, INTERNET AND E-MAIL
office. Phone followed by the
cards can be Slovak post box subscribers Internet cafs are not quite
purchased at post number. Local as prevalent as in the Czech
offices and news kiosks calls do not need the area Republic, but can neverthe-
and are easier to use for code. The new area codes for less be found in many towns.
international calls. They are Slovak telephone numbers They are opening up on a
sold in 75 and 150 units. are included in this guide. regular basis, so finding them
Some major towns have should not present too many
telephone exchanges in MAIL SERVICES difficulties. Sometimes a sign
which you can make a may be hung along the main
phone call and pay the total Post offices can be found in street, but the actual entrance
cost at the end. Calls from all towns and larger villages. may lead through gates,
hotel telephones tend to They generally open from corridors and back yards.
be expensive; it is advisable 8am until 6pm, Monday to These kinds of establishments
to check the rates before Friday, and 8am until 1pm on are often located in cellars.
making an outward call. Saturday. In large towns you They charge about 1.502
There are currently two can find some post offices per hour, with the total
mobile phone operators that open on Sundays. A charges being calculated by
in Slovakia: Orange and postage stamp (znmky) for the minute. Many hotels offer
EuroTel. an ordinary letter costs 1; a Internet access to guests.

USING A PHONECARD TELEPHONE IN SLOVAKIA

USEFUL NUMBERS
Dial these prefixes
before the Slovak
3 Display will show
number of units number (including area
1 Lift
receiver
and wait for
left, and instruct you
to dial number.
code) when calling
from abroad: from the
dialling tone.
UK and Ireland 00421;
4 Dial number
and wait to
be connected.
from USA and Canada
011421; from Australia
and New Zealand
0011421.
5 Press this button
if you wish to
make another call,
International directory
enquiries: 12 149.
2 Insert card
with arrow
pointing
without replacing the
receiver. The card
slides out when you
Directory enquiries
within Slovakia: 12 111.
upwards. replace the receiver.
424 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

GETTING TO THE CZECH AND

SLOVAK REPUBLICS

T he easiest way to
reach both the
Czech and Slovak
Republics is by air.
Prague airport is served
(31 miles) from Bratislava, which is
better connected.
Travelling by train
or coach is also
possible; it is often cheaper
by many airlines, including SA (Czech than air travel and enables you
Airlines) aircraft
several low-cost carriers. to see more of the country,
Bratislava has fewer flights, and one though may take longer. Road and rail
option is to fly to Vienna, just 50 km links are excellent from most of Europe.

TRAVELLING BY AIR TO A regular public bus service TRAVELLING BY AIR TO

THE CZECH REPUBLIC runs from the airport to SLOVAKIA
Dejvick metro (bus 119)
The countrys biggest air and to Zlin metro (bus 100). Bratislavas M R tefnika
transport hub is Pragues The journey takes about Airport is served by airlines
Ruzyn Airport, for both 30 minutes. The airport is also from all over Europe,
international and domestic linked to the city centre by a including an increasing
flights. You can fly there regular shuttle mini-bus service number of low-cost carriers.
from almost any large run by CEDAZ. Buses leave A further option for visitors
European city in less than every 30 minutes from 7:30am to southern Slovakia is to fly
two-and-half hours. The main to 7pm, and tickets cost K120 to Viennas Schwechat
Czech carrier is SA (Czech per person. CEDAZ also offers International Airport, less
Airlines), although Prague is an on-demand mini-bus service than 50 km (30 miles) from
also served by most major to and from the airport. the border (see below) .
European airlines, and an There are taxis in front of Vienna may also be the most
increasing number of low- the terminal. Book the taxi in convenient gateway for
cost carriers, including advance at the information travellers from North America
easyJet, Ryanair or Wizz Air booth by the exit doors to and Australasia.
from the UK, Ireland and ensure a fair price.
Hungary. Those travelling
from Australia, New Zealand OTHER CZECH AIRPORTS AIRLINES SERVING THE
and Canada usually have to CZECH AND SLOVAK
fly to another European The other main airports REPUBLICS
capital and take a connecting in the Czech Republic are
flight to Prague. For a list of in Ostrava, Brno and Air Slovakia
airlines see the directory. Karlovy Vary. Domestic Pestovatelsk 2, Bratislava.
routes are served by SA Tel (02) 43 42 27 42.
FROM RUZYN AIRPORT and Air Ostrava. Specialist www.airslovakia.sk
TO PRAGUE airlines operate small-
aircraft fleets which can Austrian Airlines
Pragues Ruzyn airport is be chartered for private www.aua.com
located about 20 km (12 miles) clients and offer pleasure
British Airways
northwest of the city centre. flights for tourists.
Tel 239 000 299. www.ba.com

SA V Celnici 5, Prague.
Tel 239 007 007. www.csa.cz

Danube Wings
www.danubewings.com

easyJet www.easyjet.com

Lot Polskie Linie

Lotnicze S.A. www.lot.com

Lufthansa
www.lufthansa.co.uk

Ryanair www.ryanair.com

Wizz Air www.wizzair.com

The Prague Ruzyn airport forecourt
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 425

Visitors heading for the

mountain region of northern
Slovakia might consider
taking a flight to Krakow in
Poland, which is nearer than
Bratislava, and heading south
from there.

TRANSPORT FROM THE

AIRPORT TO BRATISLAVA

Bratislavas airport is 12 km
(7 miles) from the city centre;
the bus journey (on bus no.
61) takes 30 minutes and a Glazed interior at Bratislava tefnika airport
taxi takes 15 minutes.
Viennas airport, 50 km promotions that are, from BY COACH
(31 miles) from Bratislava, time to time, offered by vari-
operates a regular bus service ous airlines, for selected You can get to both the
to the Slovak capital. routes. Usually, it is worth Czech and Slovak Republics
booking the ticket well in by coach operated by one of
OTHER SLOVAK AIRPORTS advance. The Internet is a the international carriers who
good starting point for shop- run scheduled services
Slovakias internal airports ping around for a good deal. between main European
are in Bratislava, ilina, cities. Travelling by coach is
Koice, Pietany, Slia and LOW-COST AIRLINES generally less expensive than
Poprad-Tatry (5 km/ by air, but it may sometimes
3 miles from Poprad). Both Low-cost airlines offer a good be less comfortable, and
Czech Airlines and Air range of deals on above all takes
Slovakia serve these airports. flights to Prague, much longer. The
Brno, Bratislava coaches on inter-
TICKET PRICES and Krakow in national routes
Poland, and the are generally well
Prices of air tickets vary number of routes equipped with air
tremendously: they depend is increasing all the conditioning and
on the airline, the time of time. For the have reclining
year, the type of ticket lowest fares you A welcome to visitors at seats. Further
(open or with a fixed return should book via tefnika airport details are availa-
date), the validity period, and the Internet as far ble from the
many other factors, as well as in advance as possible. operator before you book. It
where you purchase the Flights generally do not is worth taking a blanket or a
ticket. Most airlines offer include in-flight meals, sleeping bag with you and, for
special concessions for although refreshments are a cold night, a flask filled with
children; some also offer usually sold on board. a hot drink.
reductions to families and A useful website for checking
group travellers. It is also the latest low-cost routes is BY TRAIN
worth looking for special www.flycheapo.com.
Train travel offers more
comfortable conditions than
travel by coach (particularly
if you travel in a sleeper/
couchette), but it should be
stressed that standard fares
on international train routes
are usually very high the
cost of such a journey may
not be much lower than
travelling by air, for example.
The cost can be considerably
reduced if you buy discounted
international tickets well in
advance, or with passes for
travellers under 26 or for
those over 60. Details and
application forms for such
passes can be obtained from
ticket offices at international
Bratislava tefnika airport exterior railway stations.
426 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling in the Czech TRAIN TICKETS

Republic Tickets for the stopping train
must be booked in person, at
Travelling by train is a great way to see the railway station ticket desks or
Czech Republic. They are inexpensive; run fre- in S kancel D offices.
quently and usually arrive on time, and they These offices are those of
enable you to reach virtually any town. Taking Czech Railways own travel
a bus is somewhat more expensive but can agency and can be found in
be faster. The SAD buses (Czech Bus most large towns throughout
the country. All other tickets
Transport Company) run services to every can be booked on the Internet
town and village in the country. Bus and at www.cd.cz.
train timetables can be found at the website Children up to the age of
address www.jizdnirady.cz. The republic has six travel free on Czech rail-
a network of well-maintained roads so using ways, and young travellers,
a car (whether hired or your own) is an up to the age of 15, are
Train conductor ideal way to visit remote places. entitled to a 50 per cent
reduction, but they must be

TRAVELLING BY TRAIN stop at every station.

They include first-
The rail network is run by and second-class
Czech Railways (esk carriages. On this
drhy/D); it is most type of train you
developed in the northern may reserve a seat
and western regions of the (mstenka), although
country; in the south and east it is not compulsory.
there are fewer train services. Fast trains have
Detailed information on train several levels and
and bus services is available prices. On express
at the website address trains it is best to
www.cd.cz. reserve a seat if you
There are several kinds of want to guarantee
train in the Czech Republic. one. On more The main railway station in Prague
The slowest and the cheapest upmarket express
is the stopping train (osobn trains, such as InterCity and able to prove their age with
vlak), which runs on local EuroCity, it is compulsory to documentation. Note that a
routes. This kind of train, make a seat reservation. The return ticket will cost you less
often with only one or two highest standard is offered by than two singles.
carriages, resembles a tram SC trains (SuperCity), which The international InterRail
and uses similar-sounding have only first class carriages; tickets, which entitle holders
warning signals. It stops at you need to reserve a seat in to unlimited travel for one
every station and travels at a advance. These trains run on month throughout Europe,
speed of only 30 km/h (19 the Prague to Ostrava route. are honoured in the Czech
mph) or so. The fast trains For overnight travel you can Republic. Also honoured are
(rychlk) operate on long- opt to pay extra for a the Euro Domino tickets,
distance routes and do not couchette (lehtkov vz). entitling the holder to a
certain number of travel days
within one month.

RAILWAY STATIONS

Czech railway stations, even

those found in small towns,
offer a full range of facilities
necessary for travellers. All
stations, from the largest to
the smallest, are clean and
well-kept; almost all of them
have restaurants or a bar
selling beer and other
alcoholic drinks, and a ticket
office. Many stations in small
or middle-sized towns do not
have traditional, raised plat-
forms; instead they have a
Inside Masarykovo Railway Station in Prague system of open tracks, and
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 427

the station-master sets up permitted for cars and buses

boards giving details of the is 50 km/h (30 mph) in built-
trains that are just about to up areas, 90 km/h (55 mph)
arrive and depart. From April on open roads and 130 km/h
to October bicycles are (80 mph) on motorways.
available to rent from Czech From 15 October to 15
railway stations. You can rent March, drivers must use
a bicycle from one train dipped headlights at all times.
station and return it at another. Driving after consuming any
alcohol at all is strictly
LUGGAGE prohibited and if discovered
the driver may have to pay a
At all larger railway stations A SAD bus run by the Czech Bus stiff fine, or risk being
you can deposit your luggage Transport Company detained by the police.
at the left-luggage office, or
leave it in a self-service TRAVELLING BY CAR ROADS AND ROAD SIGNS
locker. On large stations there
are also porters who help Well-maintained roads and Czech motorways are marked
with the luggage. long sections of motorway with the letter D followed by
make driving one of the best a number; the major roads are
TRAVELLING BY BUS methods of exploring the indicated by the letter E and a
country. A foreigner driving number. The Czech motorway
Czech bus transport functions on Czech roads must carry a network is not very extensive
very efficiently. The SAD, valid international compared to that
esk Autobusov Doprava drivers licence, an in many other
(the countrys largest bus ID card (visitors European countries
company), runs a nationwide from outside the but it is growing
network of services that EU must also carry steadily. In order
includes virtually all towns passports), the to be allowed to
and villages, even the most vehicle registration use it, you have to
remote ones. Travelling by document and a buy a disc,
bus is generally more third-party available at border
expensive than by train, but it insurance policy crossings and
is also quicker. Bus stations (Green card). larger petrol
are usually a short walk from The car should An information sign stations. The disc
the centre of a town, and be marked with about speed limits should be
often near the train station. letters identifying displayed on the
Tickets are available from its country of origin (if not, windscreen. Not doing so
ticket desks at bus stations in you may incur an on-the-spot could incur a very heavy fine.
large towns, and it is worth fine). The driver must carry City roads tend to be busy,
buying in advance for inside the vehicle a warning while outside these con-
weekends when services are sign in the form of a red urbations traffic is minimal.
less regular. On minor routes triangle and a first-aid kit.
tickets are usually bought Babies and children must CAR HIRE
from the driver. The countrys always be strapped in
largest bus transport hub is appropriate seats. It is possible to hire a car in
the Prague Florenc station. Motorcyclists and their advance via a major car hire
Prague and Brno also have passengers must wear crash firm. Local representatives,
regular bus links with many helmets in the Czech Republic. found at airports and in
European cities. The maximum speed upmarket hotels, may offer
cheaper deals. In order to
hire a car you must be at
least 18 years of age, have
a valid drivers licence and
an identity document
recognized in the Czech
Republic, with a photo.

DIRECTORY
TRAIN TRAVEL

D (esk drhy)
Tel +420 840 112 113.
(Also in English.)
www.cd.cz
Czech country road
428 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Travelling in Slovakia are offered to groups. Child-

ren up to the age of six travel
Slovak trains are clean and fast, and railway stations free. A family ticket for three
are often located in interesting historic buildings. to six people, including up to
There are fewer railway lines than in the Czech four children aged 15 and
Republic, however, mainly due to the countrys mountain- under, offers a 20 per cent
ous terrain. Travelling on inter-city buses is relatively fare reduction. Holders of the
cheap, fast and reliable but the service can be patchy International Student Identity
Card (ISIC) receive a 50 per
in some areas. The most convenient way to travel cent reduction.
around the country is by car, particularly the further east
you go, as the public transport network becomes sparser. RESERVATIONS

Seat reservation may be

compulsory (povinne) or
optional (nepovinne) on fast,
express, EuroCity and
InterCity trains. This
information is given in the
timetables against each train.
For some overnight trains it
is also possible to buy a
couchette (leadlov lstok)
or a bed in a sleeping
Railway station building in Pietany compartment (lkov listok).
Places can be reserved at
TRAVELLING BY TRAIN towns in Slovakia, and railway station ticket offices,
some of them go also to the at selected travel agents or
Trains in Slovakia are run by Czech Republic and Austria. on www.slovakrail.sk.
SR (elenice Slovenskej The top category of trains
republiky). They run are the fast EuroCity (marked RAILWAY STATIONS
frequently, are usually clean EC) and InterCity (marked
and punctual, and the quality IC). They link Bratislava Slovak railway stations
of the track makes for a fast with Koice and Bansk (eleznin stanica) in large
and smooth journey. Bystrica; and Koice with towns are generally clean and
Travelling on some of the Prague, Berlin and Budapest. well-maintained. They often
routes that run through Tickets for these trains are occupy historic buildings
scenic mountain ranges not all that expensive dating from the days of the
(particularly the Bansk about 2.50 more (including Austro-Hungarian empire. In
Bystrica to Divaky and a reserved seat) than for a smaller towns and villages
Brezno to Margecany slow train. their standard is also fair,
sections) is in itself a tourist although often they do not
attraction. Some of the local TRAIN TICKETS have ticket offices
routes are served by railbuses (poklada). If this is the case,
that stop at every station. Slovak railways are relatively you have to buy the ticket
Slow trains (osobn vlak) inexpensive. The cost of a from a conductor on the train.
are indicated on timetables journey by slow train per
(cestovn poriadok) with the kilometre works out at about LUGGAGE
letters Os, and, if the route 40 cents. Fare reductions of
is also served by a railbus, 20 to 60 per cent (depending At all larger railway stations
with MOs. A slightly higher on the age of the passengers) you can leave your luggage
level of service is provided
by limited-stop trains
(zrchlen vlak), marked
with the Zr symbol; tickets
cost virtually the same as for
the slow trains. These stop
only at some stations,
although more frequently
than fast trains.
Fast trains (rchlik), marked
with the symbol R, operate
on longer routes between
larger towns. Even faster, but
no more expensive, are
express trains (explesn vlak),
marked with the symbol
Ex. These link all major Train travelling through a beautiful tract of Slovak countryside
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 429

start only when entering

large towns. The highest
category of Slovak roads are
the motorways (dialnica),
marked with a D followed by
a number, set on a blue
background. All motorways
are toll roads. The toll is paid
by buying a disc. This can be
annual (36.50); or valid for
one month (9.90); or valid
Slovak bus serving local routes for one week (4.90).
The disc should be placed
at the left-luggage office a first-aid kit, a warning in the upper corner of the
(schova baton), or triangle, a tow rope and a set windscreen. Discs can be
deposit it in a self-service of spare bulbs. Children up to purchased at border
locker (lon skrinky). the age of 12, or up to 150 crossings, in petrol stations
cm (5 ft) tall, must travel and at larger post offices.
TRAVELLING BY BUS strapped in appropriate seats Dual carriageways are also
in the back of the vehicle. toll roads.
Bus stations (autobusov Seat belts should be kept
stanica) are not the worlds fastened throughout your CAR HIRE
cleanest but buses run quite journey. From 15 October
frequently, and tickets are until 15 March dipped head- The number of car hire
fairly cheap. Bus lights must be companies (autopoiova)
stations are often permanently in Slovakia is on the
located near a switched on. increase. Most are found
towns railway Motorcyclists are in Bratislava and Koice.
station. You need, obliged to wear The international companies,
however, to be crash helmets. It is such as Hertz, Avis, Europcar
careful when not permitted to and Budget, offer mainly
consulting time- drive at all with Western makes of car.
tables, as they are any alcohol in your There are also local firms,
often speckled bloodstream. such as Auto Danubius,
with countless The maximum which hire kodas.
additional sym- permitted speed on
bols, which indi- Sign showing speed Slovak motorways
cate, for instance, limits in Slovakia is 130 km/h DIRECTORY
that the bus in (80mph) for cars
question runs only and 110 km/h (70mph) for TRAIN TRAVEL
spasmodically (premva), buses; elsewhere it is 90km/h
and at weekends does not (55mph) on open roads and www.slovakrail.sk
run at all (nepremva). 50km/h (37mph) within
Older buses tend to operate built-up areas. People under
on local routes, but the 18 are not permitted to drive CAR HIRE
situation is somewhat better vehicles on Slovak roads, even
on inter- city routes. Private if they hold a valid driving Auto Danubius
bus companies run some licence from another country.
routes. You can buy tickets Trnavska 39, Bratislava.
at the bus station, or on local ROADS AND ROAD SIGNS
Tel 0903 788 205.
trips, directly from the driver.
Signposting on trunk roads in www.autotudanubius.sk
TRAVELLING BY CAR Slovakia is clear; problems

Roads are reasonable and do

not present any special pro-
blems to drivers, particularly
since traffic is not very
heavy. Visitors from the EU
arriving in Slovakia by car
are not required to have a
Green Card or an inter-
national driving licence. It is
necessary, however, to carry
the vehicle registration
document with you.
Slovak regulations require
every car to be equipped with The New Bridge across the Danube in Bratislava
430 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Getting Around Prague bus stop. Buses on some of

the routes are modern, low
The historic centre of Prague is a relatively vehicles that are suitable for
small area that is best explored on foot. wheelchairs and pushchairs.
There is also an efficient network of buses, Prague and other large
trams and metro trains. This public trans- towns (Ostrava, Brno, Plze,
port system (dopravn podnik or DP) has Liberec, Olomouc and esk
Prague metro offices in metro stations and at some major Budjovice) also have trams.
sign As they move along, the
route junctions which have transport maps
driver calls the stops through
and timetables, and sell tickets and passes. Three- or the microphone. Pragues
seven-day passes can be used on trams, trains and buses. tram network has 26 lines.
During weekends from the
The
THE METRO end of March until November
direction in
which a
there is also a historic tram
The Czech capital is served tram is line, no. 91 (nostalgick
by three metro lines: A heading linka), from the Steovice
(green), B (yellow) and C depot to the city centre.
(red). They crisscross, making Tickets can be bought from
it easy to change trains and, attendants on board.
Name of
as a result, travel around the stop
virtually the entire city quickly. NIGHT TRANSPORT
The metro service operates
from 5am until midnight. Night buses (no. 601
During morning and evening Numbers upwards) and trams (51
rush hours the trains run indicating upwards) run in Prague
every 35 minutes; early in the which trams after midnight.
stop here
morning and late at night,
and during weekends and on TAXIS
public holidays their frequency
is every 812 minutes. Taxis are the most comforta-
Prague tram stop ble, but also the most
DRIVING AND PARKING expensive method of getting
in by metro. Central Prague around town. You can find
Due to the volume of has allocated areas for paid them at taxi ranks, hail them
traffic and narrow streets, parking, so if you are lucky on the street, or call them by
driving around Prague is enough to find a space telephone or via the Internet.
difficult. There are also many (which is not easy), you will Prague taxis do not come in
pedestrianized areas and have to pay at the meter. any one colour, and their
restrictions on cars. During Illegally parked cars get only distinctive mark is the
the rush hour the streets clamped or towed away to a illuminated TAXI sign on the
frequently get jammed. It is special police compound. roof. Prices vary: 2030K for
therefore not a good idea to slamming the door and
try to see Prague by car. If BUSES AND TRAMS 1730K for every kilometre,
you have a car and wish to depending on the company.
make a one-day trip into the The MHD (Mstsk
city, you can leave the car on Hromadn Doprava, BICYCLES
the outskirts and use the Park Municipal Transport System)
and Ride car parks, intended buses run according to the Prague has many bicycle
for people who wish to travel timetables displayed at every lanes, to which new ones
are always being added.
However, they run outside
the historic centre. The traffic
and cobbles mean that
cycling in Prague is not
particularly comfortable.
Bicycles can be hired in
special shops, as well as in
many hotels and hostels.

WALKING

If you wish to explore

Prague on foot, you should
equip yourself with a street
map. Small maps can be
obtained free of charge at
The interior of Mstek metro station in Prague tourist information offices.
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 431

Getting Around Bratislava compound. Having your

vehicle released in Bratislava
The best way to see the mostly pedestrianized historic will cost you 165.
centre of Slovakias capital city is on foot. For longer
journeys, or outside the centre, Bratislava has a well- TAXIS
developed network of bus, tram and trolleybus
services, although some of the fleet have seen better Taxis are available in Bratislava
and other Slovak towns, and
days. Those who enjoy night-time entertainment can also in major tourist resorts.
return home via the night services. Car drivers may find The average charge is 1 per
it difficult to get a parking space, and leaving a car kilometre. Before starting on
illegally parked could incur a very heavy fine. Cycling a journey you should ask the
is a good alternative. driver how much he will
charge you for the trip, and,
just to be sure, check the
initial reading of the meter.

BICYCLES

Bratislava and its environs

have eight marked bicycle
routes; their total length is
75 km (45 miles). One of their
advantages is the logical, clear
layout: six routes spread
Bratislava trolleybus radially; the remaining two
link them to form wide rings.
BUSES, TRAMS AND space you need to pay for Some of them continue to
TROLLEYBUSES parking at the meters (ensure Austria, the Czech Republic
you have enough loose and Hungary. Bicycle
Bratislava has an excellent change), or use a lanes have also
network of bus services. ticket (parkovacia been provided in
Some of the older vehicles karta), on which Koice, Bansk
are being replaced with you have to mark Bystrica and Zilina,
modern ones. There are also the time of leaving and their environs.
trams (elektrika) running the vehicle. These
within Bratislava (and in tickets can be WALKING
Koice). The stops (zastvka) purchased at shops
are marked with appropriate and kiosks. Parking Exploring Bratislava
signs. Bratislava also has a charges vary from 30 and other major cities
trolleybus service, as do cents to 2 per hour. Pedestrian-only on foot is an excellent
Koice, Preov, Zln and A one-off payment for zone idea. Most of the
Bansk Bystrica. In Bratislava, leaving a car (1.50 historic attractions are
a standard ticket is valid on 2 on average) is charged by clustered within a small area,
buses, trams and trolleybuses. car parks situated close to and, besides, almost every
You need to buy your ticket tourist attractions. town has a pedestrianized
in advance and validate it on Non-payment or illegal zone (peia zna). Tourist
board the vehicle, or obtain a parking is penalized by information offices provide a
one- or two-day pass if you wheel-clamping or towing free street map of the centre
are making several journeys. the vehicle to a police of Bratislava.
Between the hours of 11pm
and 5am the capital city is
served by 18 night-time lines,
including trams, trolleybuses
and buses (nos. 501518).

DRIVING AND PARKING

Driving is far from the best

way to see Bratislava. Traffic
packs the streets and there
are many one-way and
pedestrianized streets. Finding
a place to park in Bratislava
and other large towns
(outside weekends and
evenings) is virtually
impossible. If you do find a One of Koices old trams, which offer tours of the city
432 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to Il Bambino di Praga 67 Boleslav I, Prince 33
main entries. Banks 418, 420 Boleslav II, Prince 56, 101
Bansk Bystrica 307, 31013 Bono publico (Hradec Krlov) 200
A events 257, 258 Boivoj, Prince 56
Abbeys see Monasteries and convents hotels 362 Boroviec, tpn 173
Academia Istropolitana (Bratislava) map 311 Boskovice 225, 2323
279, 286 restaurants 3923 Bossanyi, Michal 322
Accommodation see Agritourism; Bansk tiavnica 314 Botanical Gardens and Zoo (Liberec) 183
Camp sites; Hostels; Hotels; hotels 362 Bouzov
Pensions; Private Homes Barbican and Town Walls (Bansk hotels 355
Act of Tolerance 39 Bystrica) 308, 310 restaurants 387
Adalbert, St 33, 101 Bardejov 254, 325, 333 Bouzov Castle 117, 22021
Adam II of Hradec 144 hotels 364 Brahe, Tycho 76
Admission prices 413, 415 Barkczy, Franco, Summer Palace Brandl, Petr 40
Adria Palace (Prague) 88 (Bratislava) 255 Assumption of the Virgin Mary
Adrpach-Teplice Rocks 210 Baroque architecture (Hradec Krlov) 198
Agriculture, Czech Republic 19 Czech Republic 21 Cathedral of the Holy Ghost
Agritourism 343 Slovakia 255 (Hradec Krlov) 198
Air travel 424, 425 Bart, Jozef 250 Church of St James (Prague) 76
Albrechtice 140 Bartk, Bla 283 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 56
Ale, Mikol 42 Bassevi, Hendela 81 St Barbara (Mantn) 173
George of Podbrady and Matthias Bata, Tom 239 St Georges Basilica and Convent
Corvinus 102 Batan, Kristf 289 (Prague) 57
Old Town Hall (Prague) 75 Bthory, Elizabeth 300301 Bratislava 249, 27289
Red Heart House (Plze) 162 Batka, Jn Nepomuk 284 airport 425
Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101 Batthyny, Archbishop Jozef 277, 278 City of Coronations 2645
torch House (Prague) 72 Battle for Freedom and Democracy events 2569
U Rotta (Prague) 72 Day 30 getting around 275, 431
Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100 Beaufort, Alfred de 173 history 2645, 273
Wiehl House (Prague) 88 Bechyn 140 hotels 3589
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Beckov Castle 290, 293, 301 maps: Exploring Bratislava 2745
(Hlubok nad Vltavou) 135, 140 Beov Castle and Palace 173 maps: Street-by-Street: Old Town
Alexander I, Tsar 207, 232 Beer 96, 139, 163, 167, 370 2767
Alexander III, Tsar 241 shopping for 397, 399 restaurants 39091
Alliprandi, Giovanni 21, 202, 210 Beethoven Museum (Doln Krup) Bratislava Castle 273, 278
Amadeus (film) 73, 84, 240 295 Bratislava City Marathon 256
Amber Route 278 Bela IV, King of Hungary 287 Bratislava Golf and Country Club 289
Anabaptists 288 Belvedere (Prague) 57 Bratislava Jazz Days 258, 403
Andrssy family 255, 336 Bender, Vclav 217 Bratislava Music Festival 258, 403
Andrej Bagar Theatre (Nitra) 304 Bendl, Jan 83 Braun, Matthias Bernhard 24, 40, 195
Andrew II, King of Hungary 279, 284 Bene, Edvard 44, 45, 46, 141, 295 Betlm 210
Andrew III, King of Hungary 273 Beneov nad Plounic 190 Church of St Stephen (Prague) 92
Anglo-Czech Bank (Ostrava) 222 hotels 349 Duchov Palace 192
Antiques, shopping for 397, 399 Berlinka caf (Bratislava) 282 Dvok Museum (Prague) 92
Archbishops Palace (Koice) 330 Bernolk, Anton 263 Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 63
Archbishops Palace (Krom) 24041 Bernolkovo 289 Holy Trinity Church (Kuks) 210
Archbishops Palace (Prague) 62 Beroun, restaurants 378 Nov Msto Castle 197, 211
Architecture Beskydy mountains 213 Plague Column (Liberec) 182
Czech Republic 2021 Bethlen, Gbor 311 St Georges Basilica and Convent
Slovakia 2545, 315 Betlm 210 (Prague) 57
Arion Fountain (Olomouc) 218 Betliar hunting lodge 255, 336 St Jude 56
Arpad family 284 Bianco, Giovanni 211 St Luitgard 69
Art Bibiena, A G 255 Betislav II, Prince 202
Czech 245 Bicycles 430, 431 Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101
Art galleries see Museums and Biennale of Illustration (Bratislava) 258 Brewing Museum (Plze) 163
galleries Blek, Frantiek, The Blind 102 Brezno, restaurants 393
Art Nouveau 245 Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Brezov pod Bradlom 295
in Prague 97 Bishops Palace (Spisk Kapitula) 339 Brixi, Frantiek 23
ArtFilm Festival (Trenianske Btov 236 Brno 225, 22831
Teplice) 257 Black Tower (esk Budjovice) 1389 events 28, 30
Assicurazioni Building (Prague) 89 Black Tower (Klatovy) 166 hotels 3567
Astronomical Clock (Olomouc) 212, The Blind (Blek) 102 map 229
219 Bohemia see Central Bohemia; East restaurants 388
Astronomical Clock (Prague) 42, 75 Bohemia; North Bohemia; South Broggio, Ottavio 190, 192
ATMs 418, 420 Bohemia; West Bohemia Brokof, Ferdinand Maxmilian 24, 40,
Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 229 Bohemia and Moravia Protectorate 45 62, 63, 68, 76
Austerlitz, Battle of 41, 232, 265, 278 Bohemian Paradise see esk rj Brokof, Jan 193
Austro-Hungarian Empire 41, 44, 251, Boh, Peter Michal 263 Brok, Vclav 91, 95
263, 266 Jan Francisi: Captain of Slovak Brunswick Palace (Doln Krup) 253,
Avars 261 Insurgents 260 295
Boii tribe 33 Buchlovice Chateau 239
B Bojnice Budovec, Vclav 125
Bach, J S 210 events 256 Budvar Brewery (esk Budjovice)
Bagpipe festivals 29, 157, 259 hotels 362 138, 139, 370
Balcarka Cave 233 Bojnice Castle 307, 32021 Bullo, G B 198
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 433

Bureaus de change 418, 420 Castles and fortifications (cont) Cathedrals (cont)
Burian Tower (ilina) 322 Mikulov Castle 238 St Nicholas (Trnava) 292, 296
Buses 427, 429, 430, 431 Mlad Boleslav Castle 125 St Nicholas (Znojmo) 238
Nchod Castle 210 St Peter and St Paul (Brno) 228
C Nelahozeves Castle 1267 St Stephan (Litomice) 190
achtice Castle 3001 Nitra Castle 304 St Vitus (Prague) 50, 54, 589
Caesar Fountain (Olomouc) 219 Nov Hrady Castle 1467 St Wenceslas (Olomouc) 215, 217
Caf Tramvaj 11 (Prague) 89 Nov Msto Castle 197, 211 Caves
Cage of Disgrace (Levoa) 334 Nov Zmky 2623, 291, 305 Balcarka Cave 233
ak, Mat 301, 320 Old and New Castles (Bansk cave exploration 407
Camp sites 343 tiavnica) 314 Jaskya Domica 336
Canoeing 405, 408, 409 Opono Castle 211 Jasovsk Jaskya 250, 337
apek, Josef 199 Oravsky Castle 307, 315 Javosk Caves 220
apek, Karel 27 Pajtn Castle 288 Kateinska Cave 233
Car hire 427, 429 Pardubice Castle 205 Konprusk 130
Cardinal Cesis Garden in Rome (van Perntejn Castle 225, 234 Punkva Caves 18, 233
Cleve) 60 Plaveck Castle 294 The Celebration of the Holy Trinity
Carolinum (Prague) 73, 84, 93 Pluhv dr Castle 141 (Palko) 65
Carpathian range 252 Podbrady Castle 124 Celetn Street (Prague) 73, 76
see also Small Carpathians Prague Castle 547 Cemeteries
Casanova, Giacomo 192, 193 Pimda Castle 159, 168 Jewish Cemetery (Boskovice) 233
aslav 204 Pusty Fortress (Zvolen) 314 Jewish Cemetery (Brno) 237
ast 287 Rab fortress 148, 157 Jewish Cemetery (Lede nad
Castle Theatre (esk Krumlov) 1545 Romberk nad Vltavou Castle 147, Szavou) 203
Castles and fortifications 149 Jewish Cemetery (Senica) 294
Barbican and Town Walls (Bansk auntejn Castle 189 Jewish Cemetery (Terezn) 191
Bystrica) 308, 310 Seeberg Castle 172 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 8081
Bechyn Castle 137, 140 Small Fortress (Terezn) 19091 St Andrews Cemetery (Bratislava) 284
Beckov Castle 290, 293, 301 Smolenice Castle 294 Slavn Hill (Bratislava) 284
Beov Castle and Palace 173 pilberk (Brno) 23031 Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100
Beneov Castles (Beneov nad Spi Castle 257, 2689 Central Bohemia 11833
Plounic) 190 Sternberg Castle (Central Bohemia) getting around 121
Btov Castle 236 1289, 131 hotels 34950
Bojnice Castle 256, 307, 32021 ternberk Castle (North Moravia) 221 map 12021
Boskovice Castle 232 Strakonice Castle 157 restaurants 3789
Bouzov Castle 117, 22021 Stekov Castle 15, 191 Central Slovak Museum (Bansk
Bratislava Castle 273, 278 Stupava Castle 287 Bystrica) 31011
achtice Castle 3001 vihov Castle 159, 166 Central Slovakia 30623
erven Lhota Castle 141 Tonk Castle 127 getting around 309
erven Kame 2867 Topoliansk Castle 300 hotels 3624
Cheb Castle 169 Tovarniky Castle 304 map 3089
Chod Castle (Domalice) 168 Tebo Castle 146 restaurants 3924
Dn Castle 178, 187 Trenn Castle 301, 3023 Ceramics, shopping for 3967, 399
Devn Castle 285 Trosky Castle 207 ermnov, Marie see Toyen
Dobrovodsk Castle 295 Valdtejn Castle 206 ern Lake 159, 166
Fortifications (Josefov) 211 Velhartice Castle 148, 158, 166 ernin, Count Humprecht 207
Frdlant Castle 186 Vrchlab Castle 208 ernn Palace (Prague) 623
Helftn Castle 223 Vyehrad (Prague) 100 ern Dl, restaurants 385
Hlubok Castle 135, 136, 140 Water Fortress (Jesenk) 221 ertovo Lake 159, 166
Hol Castle 295 dar Castle (dr nad Szavou) 234 erven Lhota, restaurants 380
Horovsk Tn Castle 168 irovnice Castle 141 erven Lhota Castle 141
Hradec nad Moravic Castle 222 leby Castle 204 erven Kame 2867
Hranice Castle 223 Znojmo Castle 238 erven Kltor, restaurants 393
Hrub Skal Castle 14, 207 umberk fortress 147 erven Kltor Museum 317
Jindichv Hradec Castle 1445 Zvkov Castle 157 esk Lpa 187
Kada Castle 193 Zvolen Castle 270, 308, 314 esk Budjovice 34, 1389
Karltejn Castle 119, 1323 see also Palaces hotels 350
Kemarok Castle 333 astolovice Palace 117, 211 map 139
Kokon Castle 125 Catacombs (Jihlava) 235 restaurants 380
Konopit Castle 119, 131, 131 Catacombs (Klatovy) 166 esk vcarsko 116, 179, 1889
Kost Castle 206 Cathedrals eskomoravsk Vysoina 18
Krsna Hrka Castle 327, 336 Assumption of the Virgin Mary esk Kras 119, 130
Kivoklt Castle 118, 127 (st nad Labem) 191 esk Krumlov 17, 11415, 116, 134,
Krumlov Castle (esk Krumlov) Holy Ghost (Hradec Krlov) 196, 135, 15255
134, 153 198, 200 events 29
Kuntick Hora Castle 205 St Barbara (Kutn Hora) 1223 hotels 35051
Kynvart Castle 169 St Bartholomew (Plze) 20, 158, map 153
Landtejn Castle 146 1645 restaurants 38081
Lede Castle 203 St Elizabeths (Koice) 254, 328, esk rj 194, 195, 2067
Lemberk Castle 187 33031 esk Tn, theatre festival 28
Levice Castle 305 St Emeram (Nitra) 304 Charles IV, Emperor 345
Liberec Castle 183 St John the Baptist (Trnava) 2989 Charles VI, Emperor 206
Lipnice Castle 203 St Martin (Bratislava) 254, 265, 28081 Charles Bridge (Prague) 24, 689
Loket Castle 17071, 173 St Martin (Spisk Kapitula) 251, 339 Charles Square (Prague) 87, 93
Mlnk Castle 126 St Nicholas (esk Budjovice) 139 Charles Street (Prague) 83
434 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Charles University (Prague) see Churches (cont) Churches (cont)

Carolinum Holy Cross (Liberec) 182 St Ignatius (Prague) 93
Chateaus see Palaces Holy Cross Chapel (Karltejn St Jacob (Lipnk nad Bevou) 223
Cheb 169 Castle) 132 St Jacob (Trnava) 270, 297
hotels 352 Holy Spirit (Medzilaborce) 324, 332 St James (Kutn Hora) 116, 122
restaurants 382 Holy Spirit (ehra) 339 St James (Levoa) 271, 326, 334
Chiantelli, Angela 218 Holy Spirit Chapel (Jindichv St James (Prachatice) 156
Children Hradec Castle) 145 St James (Prague) 73, 767
in hotels 343 Holy Trinity (Kuks) 21, 210 St Jan Sarkander Chapel (Olomouc)
in restaurants 367 Holy Trinity (Trnava) 297 216
travelling with 413, 415 Holy Trinity (ilina) 322 St John (Teplice) 191
Chlum sv. M 172 Holy Trinity (Zvolen) 314 St John the Baptist (Dvr Krlov)
Chlumec nad Cidlinou 206 Jesuit Church (Klatovy) 166 210
Chod Castle and Museums Jesuit Church (Koice) 329 St John the Baptist (Hranice) 223
(Domalice) 168 Jesuit Church of the Holy Saviour St John the Baptist (Mantn) 173
Choirs 23 277, 278 St John the Baptist (Modra) 286
Chopin, Frederic 159 Jesuit Church of St James the Great St John the Baptist (Slavonice) 146
Chopin Festival (Marinsk Lzn) 29 (Jin) 207 St John Nepomuk (dr nad
Chopin Museum (Marinsk Lzn) Kladruby Church 168, 176 Szavou) 234
169 Little Blue Church (Bratislava) 284 St Lawrence (Nchod) 210
Chotek family 126 Loreto (Prague) 62 St Martin (Martin) 315
Christmas 31, 259 Lutheran Church (Kemarok) 333 St Mary (Pbor) 222
Christmas Fair (Bratislava) 258 Monastery Church (erven St Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary)
Chrudim 204 Kltor) 317 21, 174
Churches Most Sacred Heart (Vinohrady, St Maurice (Olomouc) 216
All Saints (Stbro) 168 Prague) 21 St Michael (Olomouc) 216
Ascension of the Virgin Mary Nativity (Opono) 211 St Michaels Chapel (Koice) 328, 331
(Bansk Bystrica) 31213 Nativity of the Virgin Mary St Nicholas (Cheb) 169
Ascension of the Virgin Mary (Beneov nad Plounic) 190 St Nicholas (Louny) 192
(Podolinec) 333 Nativity of the Virgin Mary St Nicholas (Prague) 21, 50, 645
Assumption (Plze) 163 (Domalice) 168 St Nicholas (Preov) 332
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Old Minorites Church (Levoa) 334 St Nicholas (Senec) 289
(Havlkv Brod) 203 Our Lady (Ktiny) 232 St Peter and St Paul (Albrechtice)
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Our Lady (Marinka) 288 140
(Hradec Krlov) 198 Our Lady before Tn (Prague) 73, 76 St Peter and St Paul (Karlovy Vary)
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Our Lady beneath the Chain 175
(Malacky) 288 (Prague) 67 St Peter and St Paul (Lede nad
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Our Lady of the Snows (Olomouc) Szavou) 203
(Marinsk Lzn) 169 21617 St Peter and St Paul (Mlnk) 126
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Our Lady of the Snows (Prague) St Peter and St Paul (Nov Hrady)
(Opava) 221 88, 90 146
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Our Lady Victorious (Prague) 67 St Peter and St Paul (tk) 190
(Slavonice) 146 Piarist Church (Nitra) 304 St Peter and St Paul (Vyehrad) 100
Assumption of the Virgin Mary Piarist Church (Trenn) 301 St Procopius (Strakonice) 157
(Trnava) 296 Piarist Church and Monastery St Saviour (Clementinum, Prague)
Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Podolinec) 333 823
(atec) 193 Piarist Order Church (Svt Jur) 286 St Stephen (Prague) 92
Basilica of St Giles (Bardejov) 333 Poor Clares Church (Bratislava) 283 St Stephen (Stupava) 287
Basilica of St Lawrence and St Protestant Church (Kemarok) 333 St Stephen (ilina) 322
Zdislava (Jablonn v Podjetd) Rotunda of St Catherine (Znojmo) St Thomas (Prague) 66
1867 20, 238 St Ursula (Prague) 96
Basilica of St Procopius (Teb) 20, Rotunda of St Martin (Vyehrad, St Vitus (esk Krumlov) 152
235 Prague) 100 St Wenceslas (Harrachov) 208
Bohemian Unitas Fratrum (Mlad Sacrifice of the Virgin (esk St Wenceslas (Prague-Vrovice) 21
Boleslav) 125 Budjovice) 138 Sternberg Chapel (Plze) 165
Brothers of Mercy (Bratislava) 283 St Anthony (Liberec) 182 Svata Hor (Pbram) 120, 130
Chapel of St Anna (Senica) 294 St Barbara (Mantn) 173 Transfiguration (Tbor) 142
Chapel of St John the Almsgiver St Bartholomew (Koln) 20, 124 University Church of St John the
(Bratislava) 270, 280 St Bartholomew (Pardubice) 205 Baptist (Trnava) 2989
Chlum sv. M 172 St Bartholomew (Pelhimov) 141 Visitation of the Blessed Virgin
Evangelic Lutheran Church (Svt St Catherine (Bansk tiavnica) 314 Mary (Hejnice) 186
Kr) 322 St Clement Chapel (Hradec imany 306, 307, 315, 322
Exaltation of the Holy Cross Krlov) 200 Cinemas 400, 402
(Litomyl) 202 St Cyril and St Methodius (Prague) 96 Csask dm (Plze) 162
Finding of the Holy Cross St Elizabeth (Zvolen) 314 City Gallery (Bratislava) 279, 282
(Litomyl) 202 St Emeryk (ast) 287 City Museum (Bratislava) 278
Fourteen Holy Martyrs (Kada) 193 St Florian (st nad Labem) 191 Civic Forum 88
Franciscan Church (Bratislava) 277, St George (Svt Jur) 286 Classical music 4001, 4023
279 St Georges Basilica and Convent Clementinum (Prague) 823
Holy Cross (Bansk Bystrica) 310 (Prague) 20, 55, 567 Cleopatra (Zrzavy) 102
Holy Cross (Brno) 228 St Giles (Prague) 83 Climate
Holy Cross (esk Lpa) 187 St Giles (Tebo) 146 Czech Republic 2931, 412
Holy Cross (Dn) 187 St Helen (Trnava) 297 Slovakia 2579, 414
Holy Cross (Frantikovy Lzn) 172 St Ignatius (Jin) 207 Coach travel
Holy Cross (Frdlant) 186 St Ignatius (Jihlava) 235 international services 425
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 435

Coach travel (cont.) Dientzenhofer, Christoph (cont.) Eberle, Jakob 174

see also Buses Chlum sv. M 172 Edelmann Palace (Olomouc) 218
Codex of Jena 36 St Nicholas (Prague) 21, 645 Egg Object (Kol) 103
Coins and Medals Museum Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz 40, 195 Eggenberg, Prince Johann Christian 154
(Kremnica) 315 Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101 Egon Schiele Centrum (esk
Columned Bridge (Pietany) 300 Dvok Museum (Prague) 92 Krumlov) 152
Cometa, Antonio 144 Kinsk Palace (Prague) 72 El Greco, Head of Christ 61
Communism 15, 467, 267 Kladruby Monastery 177 Elbe, River see Labe, River
Communist architecture 255 St Mary Magdalene (Karlovy Vary) Electrical appliances 413, 415
Concentration camps 82, 191 21, 174 Elizabeth of Hungary, St 284
Concentus Moravia: International St Nicholas (Prague) 21, 645 Embassies and consulates 412, 413, 414
Music Festival 29 St Thomas (Prague) 66 Emergency numbers 416, 417
Constance, Council of 35, 37 Tepl Monastery 177 Emmaus Monastery see Slavonic
Convents see Monasteries and convents Dietrich, Josef 138 Monastery
Coronation Celebrations (Bratislava) 258 Disabled travellers 413, 415 Enlightenment 4041, 263
Coronation route (Bratislava) 276, 280 in hotels 343 Entertainment
Cotte, Jules de 130 in restaurants 367 Czech Republic 4001
Counter-Reformation 40 Ditrichstein Palace (Brno) 228 Slovakia 4023
Crafts see Handicrafts Dittersdorf, Karl Ditters von 141 Epiphany 259
Crcy, Battle of 35 Dob, restaurants 378 Estates Theatre (Prague) 73, 84, 100, 401
Credit cards 418, 420 Dob Palace 119, 121, 130 Esterhzy, Archbishop 280
in restaurants 366 Dobrofest (Trnava) 257 Esterhzy, Count Miklo 298
in shops 396, 398 Dobrovodsk Castle 295 Esterhzy Palace (Bratislava) 282
Ctibor House (Tbor) 143 Dobrovsk, Josef 26, 41 Ethnic minorities
Currency 419, 421 Dolls Festival (Poprad) 256 Czechoslovakia 445
Customs regulations 412, 414 Doln (Bansk Bystrica) 311 Slovakia 248, 305, 323
Cycling 404, 408 Doln Krup 255, 295 Etiquette, in restaurants 367
in Prague and Bratislava 430, 431 Doln Dvoit 147 European Union 1516, 47, 251, 267
Cyril, St 26, 33, 96, 261 Domalice 159, 168 Evening in Hradany (Schikaneder) 102
Czech Republic hotels 352 Events
Central Bohemia 11833 restaurants 382 Czech Republic 2831
East Bohemia 194211 Donner, Georg Raphael 255, 280, 288 Slovakia 2569
history 3347 Dopjera, Jan 257 Executioners Bastion (Koice) 329
hotels 34457 Drink see Food and drink Executions, Old Town Square
maps 1213, 11617 Driving (Prague) 74
North Bohemia 17893 in Bratislava 431
North Moravia and Silesia 21223 in Czech Republic 427 F
Portrait of 1527 in Prague 430 Fatra mountain ranges 249
Prague 48113 in Slovakia 429 Faust House (Prague) 93
restaurants 37289 Dubek, Alexander 467 Fellner, Ferdinand 174, 175, 182, 282
South Bohemia 13457 Dub porcelain factory 25 Fencing Festival (Spi Castle) 257
South Moravia 22441 Duchcov Palace 192, 193 Ferdinand I, Emperor 39, 262
Through the Year 2831 Dukla Pass, Battle of (1944) 333 Ferdinand II, Emperor 39
travel 4247 Dunajec Gorge 317 Festival duchov a straidiel (Bojnice) 256
West Bohemia 15877 Dunajsk Streda 300 Festival of Greek-Catholic Choirs 258
Czechoslovak Army Monument hotels 359 Festivals
(Dukla Pass) 333 Dunajsk, Vavrinec 310 Czech Republic 2831
Czechoslovakia 445, 2667 Duek, Frantiek 100 Slovakia 2569
break-up of 33, 47, 249 Dvok, Antonn 223, 42 Film
Birthplace (Nelahozeves) 1267 Czech 27
D Dvok Museum (Prague) 92 festivals 29, 257, 259
Damajan, Deodatus 83 Sychrov Palace 187 Fire Fighters Museum (Bechyn) 140
Dance (Mucha) 24 Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100 Fischer, Karl 205
Dancing House (Prague) 93 Dvr Krlov 210 Fischer von Erlach, Johann Bernhard
Danube, River 19, 252, 253, 283 hotels 354 76, 228, 236, 289
Day of the Republic 30 restaurants 385 Fishing 405
de Vries, Adriaen 56 Dyje, River 19 Five-Petalled Rose Festival (esk
Dechovky 23 Krumlov) 29
Dn 178, 187 E Flora
hotels 353 E-mail services 422, 423 Czech Republic 1819
restaurants 3834 East Bohemia 194211 Slovakia 25253
Decorative Arts Museum (Prague) 81, getting around 197 Flora Bratislava 256
82 hotels 3545 Folk culture
Defenestrations of Prague 35, 39, 56, 96 map 1967 Czech Republic 16
Demnovsk Dolina, hotels 362 restaurants 3856 Slovakia 24950
Dental emergencies 416, 417 East Bohemia Regional Museum Folk festivals 29, 257, 258
Department stores 398 (Hradec Krlov) 199 Food and drink
Destinnov, Emma 23 East Slovak Museum (Koice) 329 Flavours of the Czech and Slovak
Detva, events 257 East Slovakia 32439 Republics 3689
Devn Castle 285 getting around 327 shopping for 397, 399
Devin-Bratislava Run 256 hotels 3645 What to Drink 37071
Dialling codes 422, 423 map 3267 see also Beer; Restaurants; Wine
Diana Viewpoint (Karlovy Vary) 175 restaurants 3945 Football 406, 409
Dientzenhofer, Christoph 40 Easter, Slovakia 256 Forman, Milo 17, 27, 73, 84, 240
Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101 Easter Festival of Sacred Music (Brno) 28 Franciscan Garden (Prague) 88, 90
436 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Frantikovy Lzn 159, 172 Habsburg, Archduke Eugene 221 Hotels (cont)
hotels 352 Habsburg dynasty 33, 3941, 44, 2626 Prague 3449
restaurants 382 Hacha, Emil 45 South Bohemia 35052
Franz I, Emperor 172, 207, 278 Handicrafts South Moravia 3567
Franz II, Emperor 40, 41, 232, 265 Handicraft Exhibition (Kemarok) 257 West Bohemia 3523
Franz Ferdinand, Archduke 44, 131, 191 shopping for 397, 399 West Slovakia 36061, 3912
Franz Joseph I, Emperor 41, 159, 241, Slovak 255 House at the Chalice (Litomice) 190
263 Hansen, Theophil von 333 House at the Good Shepherd
Franzensbad see Frantikovy Lzn Hanu, Master 219 (Bratislava) 283
Frederick II, Emperor 34 Harbuval de Chamar, Count Jean House at the Two Golden Bears
Frederick William III, King of Prussia Antonn 202 (Prague) 72
207 Harrach, Count Frantiek Arnot 205 House of the Black Madonna
Freud, Sigmund 169, 222 Harrach, Ferdinand Bonaventura 220 (Prague) 76
Fri, Martin 27 Harrachov 208 Hrabal, Bohumil 17, 27
Friedel, Theodore 184 Hartmann, Josef 332 Hradansk Square 53, 62
Frdlant 186 Haek, Jaroslav 27, 203 Hradany and Mal Strana (Prague)
restaurants 384 Hat Museum (Nov Jin) 223 5269
Fugger, Anton 287 Hauberisser, Georg von 221 hotels 3445
Fujara 255 Havel, Vclav 17, 27, 47, 88, 90 map 53
Functionalist architecture 21 Havel Market (Prague) 396 restaurants 3723
Frstenburg, Archbishop Bedich 217 Havlkv Brod 203 Hradec Krlov 195, 198201
restaurants 385 hotels 354
G Haydn, Joseph 192, 265 map 199
Galanta 304 Head of Christ (El Greco) 61 restaurants 3856
Gans, David 80 Health 41617 Street-by-Street map: Old Town
The Garden of Eden (1618) (Savery) 61 Heermann, Johann Georg 104 200201
Gartner, Jakub 297 Hefele, Melchior 277, 278 Hradec, Lords of 135, 144
Gasparovi, Ivan 267 Heinsch, Jan Ji 76, 92
Hradec nad Moravic Castle 222
Gay and lesbian travellers 401, 403 Hrdek u Nechanic Palace 205
Hejnice 186
Gehry, Frank 93 Hranice 223
Helftn Castle 223
George of Podbrady, King 37, 38, Hensko, hotels 353
Helmer, Hermann 174, 175, 182, 282
124, 131, 221 Hronsky Beadik Abbey 323
Henry IV, Emperor 33
George of Podbrady and Matthias Hrub Skal Castle 14, 207
Herscher, Josef 173
Corvinus (Ale) 102 Hrznsk Palace (Prague) 76
Heydrich, Reinhard 45, 96
Gerlachov Huber, Leopold 139
Hiking 404, 407
hotels 362 Hukvaldy, music festival 29
Hillebrandt, Franz A 282, 294
restaurants 393 Humenn, folk festival 257
History
Gerlachovsk tt 253, 258, 317 Hummel, Johann Nepomuk 277
Czech Republic 3347
Germans Humprecht hunting lodge (near
Slovak Republic 2617
expulsion of German speakers 15, Sobotka) 207
16, 46 Hitchhiking 427, 429 Hungary
settlers 34, 179, 195, 262 Hitler, Adolf 45, 249 Bratislava as capital of 262, 2645,
Gerulata Museum (Rusovce) 285 Hlalol Choir Building (Prague) 86 273, 280
Ghetto Museum and Magdeburg Hlavn (Koice) 271, 328, 330, 331 Slovak relations with 248
Barracks (Terezn) 191 Hlavn nmestie (Bratislava) 276 Slovakia under Hungarian rule 247,
Glass 25 Hlubok nad Vltavou 140 2613, 266
Decorative Arts Museum (Prague) 82 hotels 351 Hus, Jan 26, 35, 36, 37
shopping for 3967 Holaovice 156 monument (Brezov pod Bradlom)
Gmaitel, tefan 279 Hol 2945 295
Gor, Josef Holy Ghost Cathedral (Hradec monument (Prague) 72
Anglo-Czech Bank (Ostrava) 222 Krlov) 196, 198, 200 statue (Louny) 180
Church of St Wenceslas (Prague- Holy Roman Empire 334 Husk, Gustv 47, 267
Vrovice) 21 Holy Trinity Column (Olomouc) 216, Hussite movement 35, 367, 38, 93,
House of the Black Madonna 218 135, 142, 262
(Prague) 76 Holy Trinity Square (Trnava) 291, 297 Hussite Museum (Tbor) 142
Hradec Krlov 198, 199 Horn nmesti (Olomouc) 216 Hutka, Jaromr 23
Gode, Ludovit 277, 289 Street-by-Street map 21819 Hynais, Vojtch 43, 91, 95
Godyn, Abraham 104 Horowitz, Aaron Meshulam 82
Goethe 159, 169, 173, 192 Horse racing 30, 205 I
Golden Lane (Prague) 55, 57 Horse riding 407 Ice climbing 407
Golf 289, 405, 408 Horovsk Tn 168 Ice hockey 406, 409
Gothic architecture 20 hotels 352 Illshzy family 293, 301
Gottwald, Klement 46 restaurants 382 Imperial Baths (Karlovy Vary) 174
Grand Hotel Europa (Prague) 89, 90 Hospitals 416, 417 Insurance, travel 416, 417
Grand Meal (Medek) 103 Hotalkov House (atec) 193 Internet services 422, 423
Grand Seminary (Nitra) 304 Hostels 3423
Grassalkovich Palace (Bratislava) 284 Hotel Meran (Prague) 97 J
Great Moravian Empire 33, 225, 228, Hotels 34265 Jablonn v Podjetd 1867
261, 273, 300 general information 3423 Jger, Josef 202
Groll, A 184 Central Bohemia 34950 Jagiellonian dynasty 389
Gypsies 179 Central Slovakia 3624 Jan II of Liechtenstein 221
East Bohemia 3545 Jan Adam of Liechtenstein 220
H East Slovakia 3645 Jan Francisi: Captain of Slovak
Haban Houses (Velk Levre) 2889 North Bohemia 3534 Insurgents (Boh) 260
Habans 255, 2889 North Moravia and Silesia 3556 Janek, Leo 23, 29
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 437

Jank, Pavel 141 Karlovy Vary (cont.) Ktiny 232

Jnok, Juraj 246, 257 map 175 Krumlov Castle (esk Krumlov) 134,
Jansa, Vclav, Old Town Square 72 restaurants 382 153
Jaromice nad Rokytnou Chateau Karlovy Vary Theatre 174 Krumlov Madonna 24, 152
236 Karlsbad see Karlovy Vary Kryl, Karel 23
Jaroslava Prluika Ethnographic Karltejn Kubelk, Jan 22, 23
Museum (Hol) 294 Karltejn Castle 119, 1323 Kuks 195, 210
Jaskya Domica 336 restaurants 378 restaurants 386
Jasn, restaurants 393 Karst 18, 233, 252, 271, 3367 Kundera, Milan 17, 27
Jasov 337 Kateinska Cave 233 Kuntick Hora Castle 205
Jasovsk Jaskya 250, 337 Kermer, F 198 Kunz, Johann Josef 182
Javosk Caves 220 Kemarok 333 Kupeck, Jan 56, 57
Jazz 23 events 257 Self-Portrait 24
festivals 258, 401, 403 hotels 364 Kutn Hora 38, 119, 1223
Jerome of Prague 36 restaurants 394 hotels 349
Jesenk 221 Kinsk, Count Frantiek 206 restaurants 378
hotels 355 Kinsk Palace (Prague) 72 Kuzma, Duan 311
restaurants 387 Kladruby Monastery 159, 168, 1767 Kvilda 148
Jesenky mountains 213, 221 Klterec nad Oh 193 Kynvart Castle 169
Jetd peak (Liberec) 183 Klatovy 166 Kysela, Frantiek 58
Jesuits 39, 40, 823, 263 restaurants 383 Kysucer Pilgrimage (Oadnica) 257
Jetichovice 189 Klaus, Vclav 47
Jewish Quarter (Prague) 71, 7782 Klet Mountain 149 L
Jewish Town Hall (Prague) 77 Klimt, Ernst 174 Labe, River 19, 180, 191, 195
Jews Klimt, Gustav 174, 182 The Lamentation of Christ (Monaco) 60
Boskovice Ghetto 233 The Virgin 102 Landscape
Holocaust monument (Trnava) 297 Knights House (Litonmyl) 202 Czech Republic 1819
Jewish Historical Sites 237 Knights of St John 67, 157, 173 Slovakia 25253
Jewish quarter, Mikulov 237, 238 Kniling, B 299 Landtejn Castle 146
SNP Museum (Bansk Bystrica) 311 Kodly, Zoltn 304 Lang, Adolf 329
in South Moravia 225 Kohl, John Frederick 64 Lang, Jozef 322
Terezn Ghetto 191 Kokon Castle 125 Language 413, 415, 4478
Teb Ghetto 235, 237 Kol, Ji 199 Czech 17, 26, 41, 42
in World War II 15, 16 Egg Object 103 German 4041, 263
see also Synagogues Koln 124 Slovak 263, 266
Jin 197, 2067 hotels 349 Lny 127
hotels 355 restaurants 378 Laterna Magika Theatre (Prague) 88,
restaurants 386 Kolloni family 289 94, 400
Jihlava 235 Komrno 305 Latrn (esk Krumlov) 153
hotels 357 hotels 359 Laugaricio (Trenn) 291, 301
restaurants 388 restaurants 391 Lzn Jesenk 221
Jindich Jindich Museum Komrno Lehra 256, 305 Lzn Kynvart 169
(Domalice) 168 Komedie Theatre (Prague) 400 Lechner, dn 284
Jindichv Hradec 135, 1445 Komensk, Jan mos 26 Lede Castle 203
hotels 351 Konprusk Caves 130 Lede nad Szavou 203
restaurants 381 Konopit Castle 131 Lednice Chateau 227, 238
Jirsek, Alois 42, 101 Koruna Palace (Prague) 88 Lednicko-Valtick arel 225, 227, 238
Jizersk Mountains 186 Kosrak, Adolf Lehr, Franz 256, 305
Jodok, Master 312 Summer Countryside with Chapel 55 Lemberk Castle 187
John of Luxemburg, King 34, 58, 745 Koice 325, 32831 Leopold I, Emperor 1045
John Nepomuk, St 69, 157 events 256, 258 Leopold II, Emperor 264, 265
Josefov (East Bohemia) 211 hotels 364 Leopold, Master 123
Josefov (Prague) 71, 7782 map 329 Levetzow, Ulrika von 173
Joseph II, Emperor 4041, 263, 264 restaurants 3945 Levice, hotels 360
Josefov (East Bohemia) 211 Street-by-Street: Around St Levice Castle 305
pilberk (Brno) 231 Elizabeths Cathedral 33031 Levoa 325, 327, 3345
Terezn 190 Koicka Bela 326 events 257
Jungmann, Josef 88 Kost Castle 206 hotels 3645
Jungmann Square (Prague) 88 Kostka, Ferdi 287 restaurants 395
Jurkovie, Duan 239, 295 Kotra, Jan 198, 199 Liberec 179, 1825
Koul, J 162 hotels 3534
K Kov, Michal 267 map 183
Kada 193 Kracker, Jan Lukas 65, 313 restaurants 384
Kafka, Franz 27, 57, 89, 169, 186 Krsna Hrka Castle 327, 336 Libosad (Jin) 207
Kmen 141 Kraus, Anton 328 Liebig, Baron Johann 183
Kamenice Gorge 188 Krejuk, J 84 Liechtenstein family 220, 221, 226, 238
Kamenik, Ludovit Kremnica 315 Lindner, Master T, of Freiberg 191
Jnok 246 hotels 362 Lipany, Battle of 35, 36
Kaka, Frantiek 25, 126 Kivoklt, hotels 349 Lipnice Castle 203
Karl Eusebius of Liechtenstein 220 Kivoklt Castle 118, 127 Lipnice nad Szavou 203
Karlova Koruna Palace (Chlumec nad Krkonoe 18, 195, 2089 restaurants 386
Cidlinou) 206 Krkonoe National Park 195, 2089 Lipnk nad Bevou 223
Karlovy Vary 23, 17, 159, 1745 Krom 225, 24041 Lipno, Lake 149
events 29 hotels 357 Lippert, Jozef 280
hotels 352 restaurants 389 Liptovsk Hrdok 316
438 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Liptovsk Jn, hotels 3623 Maps (cont) Medek, Mikul, Grand Meal 103
Liptovsk Mikul 316 East Slovakia 3267 Medzev 337
hotels 363 Hradec Krlov: Old Town 2001 Medzilaborce 332
Literature, Czech 267 Hradec Krlov: Town Centre 199 hotels 365
Litomice 190 Karlovy Vary 175 Mlnk 126
hotels 354 Koice 329 hotels 350
restaurants 384 Koice: Around St Elizabeths restaurants 379
Litomice, Master of 77, 190 Cathedral 33031 Mendel, Gregor 229
Litomyl 29, 195, 202 Krkonoe 2089 Menus 367
hotels 355 Liberec 183 Menzel, Jii 27
restaurants 386 North Bohemia 18081 Methodius, St 26, 33, 96, 261
Little Quarter Square (Prague) 667 North Moravia and Silesia 21415 Metro, Prague 430
Loket 17071, 1723 Nov Msto 87 Metzner, Franz 182
hotels 353 Olomouc: Horn nmst 21819 Michaels Gate (Bratislava) 265, 276,
restaurants 383 Olomouc: Town Centre 217 279
Lomnick tt 309, 317 Plze 163 Middle Ages, architecture 254
Loreto (Prague) 62 Prague: Around Wenceslas Square Mies van der Rohe, Ludwig 225, 229
Lsi, Imrich, Archbishop of 889 Mikulov 225, 237, 238
Esztergom 298 Prague: At a Glance 5051 hotels 357
Louis I, King of Hungary 288, 301 Prague: Hradany and Mal Strana 53 Mill Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Vary)
Louis Jagiello, King 389, 262 Prague: Prague Castle 545 15, 160, 175
Louny 192 Prague: Star Msto 723 Miluni, Vlado 93
restaurants 384 Prague: Star Msto and Josefov 71 Mineral water 371
Lw, Rabbi 79, 80 Prague: Street Finder 10613 Mining 179, 213, 222
Low-cost airlines 425 Slovakia 2467, 27071 Mining Museum (Bansk tiavnica) 314
Luenec 323 Slovensk kras 3367 Mining Museum (Ostrava) 222
events 257 South Bohemia 1367 Mining Museum (Pbram) 13031
Ludmilla, Princess 56 South Moravia 2267 Mirbach Palace (Bratislava) 276, 279
Luggage 427, 429 The umava 1489 Mlad Boleslav
Luhaovice 239 Tbor 1423 hotels 350
Lurago, Anselmo 65 Tatras mountains 31617 restaurants 379
Lurago, Carlo 40, 130, 193 Trnava 297 Mlada, Princess 56
Assumption of the Virgin Mary West Bohemia 16061 Mladota, Count Ferdinand 93
(Hradec Krlov) 198 West Slovakia 2923 Mlyany Arboretum 323
St Ignatius (Prague) 93 Marathon, Prague 28 Mnichovo Hradit
Luxemburg dynasty 345, 38 Marcomanni tribe 33, 261 hotels 350
Maria Theresa, Empress 40, 213, 263, restaurants 379
M 2645, 273, 283 Mnichovo Hradit Palace 125
Mcha, Karel Hynek 26, 125 Marinka Shrine 288 Mocker, Joseph 58, 132
Maggi, Baldassare 145, 152 Marinsk Lzn 159, 169 Modern architecture
Maggi, G A de 154 Chopin Festival 29 Czech Republic 21
Magyars 2612 hotels 353 Slovakia 255
Mahenovo Theatre (Brno) 43, 401 restaurants 383 Modern Art Gallery (Hradec Krlov)
Mahler, Gustav 23 Marinsky Bridge (st nad Labem) 43, 199
Mail services 4223 191 Modra 286
Maillol, Aristide, Pomona 102 Marienbad see Marinsk Lzn hotels 360
Main Station (Prague) 91, 97 Market Colonnade (Karlovy Vary) 174 restaurants 391
Maisel, Mordechai 77, 79, 81 Markets Mohcs, Battle of 39, 262
Maisel Synagogue (Prague) 51, 79 Czech Republic 396 Mojmrovce Palace 3045
Makh, Lorenz 154 Slovakia 3989 Monaco, Lorenzo, The Lamentation
Makovec, Imre 300 Mrkl, Leo 154 of Christ 60
Mala Lehota, events 259 Martin 315 Monasteries and convents
Mal Strana see Hradany and Mal hotels 363 Augustinian Monastery (Brno) 229
Strana restaurants 393 Bevnov Monastery (Prague) 101
Malacky 288 Martinelli, Antonio 138 Brothers of Mercy Church and
hotels 360 Martinelli, G B 253, 282 Monastery (Bratislava) 283
restaurants 391 Martinic Palace (Prague) 62 erven Kltor 317
Mal Nmst (Hradec Krlov) 198, The Martyrdom of St Thomas Convent of St Agnes (Prague) 77
201 (Rubens) 61 Dominican Monastery (esk
Malokarpatsk Marathon (Trnava) 258 Masaryk, Jan 623 Budjovice) 138
Mnes, Josef 42 Masaryk, Tom 445, 57, 63, 266, 295 Franciscan Monastery (Plze) 163
Mantn 161, 173 Tom G Masaryk Museum (Lny) Hronsky Beadik Abbey 323
Mansfeld, Jindich Pavel 130 127 Jasov Monastery 255, 337
Maps Mathey, Jean-Baptiste 104, 176 Kladruby Monastery 159, 168,
Bansk Bystrica 311 Matica Slovenska 266 1767
Bratislava: Exploring Bratislava 2745 Matsche, Franz 174 Loreto (Prague) 62
Bratislava: Old Town 2767 Matthew of Arras 58 Marinska Shrine 288
Brno 229 Matthias II, Emperor 39, 286 Minorite Monastery (Stbro) 168
Central Bohemia 12021 Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary Osek Monastery 192
Central Slovakia 3089 279, 280 Piarist Church and Monastery
esk Budjovice 139 Matthias House (Bansk Bystrica) 310 (Podolinec) 333
esk Krumlov 153 Mauelbertsch, F A 240 Plasy Monastery 159, 161, 176
esk rj 2067 Maximilian I, Emperor 39 Porta Coeli convent (Tinov) 224, 234
Czech Republic 1213, 11617 Maximilian II, Emperor 39 St Georges Basilica and Convent
East Bohemia 1967 Measures 413, 415 (Prague) 55, 567
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 439

Monasteries and convents (cont) Museums and galleries (cont) Museums and galleries (cont)
Szava Monastery 119, 121, 131 East Bohemia Regional Museum Pbor Museum 2223
Slavonic Monastery (Prague) 923 (Hradec Krlov) 199 Puppet Museum (Chrudim) 204
Strahov Monastery (Prague) 63 East Slovak Museum (Koice) 329 Radek Pila Museum (Jin) 207
Tepl Monastery 159, 177 Egon Schiele Centrum (esk Records Museum (Pelhimov) 141
Velehrad Monastery 239 Krumlov) 152 Regional Gallery (Liberec) 183
Vy Brod Monastery 147 Fire Fighters Museum (Bechyn) 140 Regional Museum (esk Lpa) 187
West Bohemian Monasteries 1767 Gallery of Arts and Crafts (Ostrava) 222 Regional Museum (esk Krumlov)
Zlat Koruna Monastery 20, 156 Gallery U Brny (tk) 190 152
Mongols 262 Gerulata Museum (Rusovce) 285 Regional Museum (Dunajsk
Montfort, Katherine de 144 Ghetto Museum and Magdeburg Streda) 300
Monument to Peace (Austerlitz) 232 Barracks (Terezn) 191 Regional Museum (Jesenk) 221
Monument to the Red Army Soldiers House of Master Pavol (Levoa) 334 Regional Museum (Jin) 207
(Bratislava) 284 Hussite Museum (Tbor) 142 Regional Museum (Koln) 124
Monument to the Victims of Jaroslava Prluika Ethnographic Regional Museum (Lede nad
Communism (Prague) 89 Museum (Hol) 294 Szavou) 203
Morava, River 18, 19 Jindich Jindich Museum Regional Museum (Levice) 305
Moravia see Great Moravian Empire; (Domalice) 168 Regional Museum (Litomice) 190
North Moravia and Silesia; South Karlovy Vary Museum 174 Regional Museum (Nov Zmky) 305
Moravia Kemarok Museum 333 Regional Museum (Preov) 332
Moravian Field, Battle of the 34 Masaryk Museum (Lny) 127 Regional Museum (Strakonice) 157
Moravian Gallery (Brno) 229 Mendelianum (Brno) 229 Rohan Gallery (Sychrov Palace) 187
Moravian National Museum (Brno) 228 Mining Museum (Bansk tiavnica) Roudnice Lobkowicz Collection
Moravian Venus 261 314 (Nelahozeves) 127
Moravsk kras 233 Mining Museum (Ostrava) 222 ari Museum (Bardejov) 315, 333
Moser of Karlovy Vary 25 Mining Museum (Pbram) 13031 efnik Museum (Koarisk) 295
Motorcycle Museum (esk Modern Art Gallery (Hradec Silesian Municipal Museum
Budjovice) 139 Krlov) 43, 199 (Opava) 221
Motorcycle Museum (Kmen) 141 Moravian Gallery (Brno) 229 Skansen (Svidnk) 333
Motorcycle sports 406 Moravian National Museum (Brno) koda Museum (Mlad Boleslav) 125
Mountain hostels 3423 228 Slovak Agricultural Museum (Nitra)
Mozart, Wolfgang Amadeus 22, 192, 265 Motorcycle Museum (esk 270, 304
Estates Theatre (Prague) 84, 100 Budjovice) 139 Slovak National Gallery (Bratislava)
Mozart Museum (Prague) 99, 100 Motorcycle Museum (Kmen) 141 282
Mucha, Alfons Mozart Museum (Prague) 99, 100 Slovak National Museum
Art Nouveau in Prague 97 Mucha Museum (Prague) 91 (Bratislava) 278, 287
Dance 24 Municipal Gallery (Bansk Slovak National Museum in Martin 315
Mucha Museum (Prague) 91 Bystrica) 310 Slovak Village Museum (Martin) 315
Municipal House (Prague) 43, 845 Municipal Museum (Hranice) 223 Small Carpathian Museum
Music 25 Museum of Art (ilina) 322 (Pezinok) 286
St Vituss Cathedral (Prague) 58 Museum of the Battle of Dukla Smetana Museum (Prague) 83
Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100 (Svidnk) 333 SNP Museum (Bansk Bystrica) 311
Mumlov Waterfall 208 Museum of Clocks (Bratislava) 283 South Bohemia Museum (esk
Munich Agreement 45 Museum of Coins and Medals Budjovice) 139
Municipal House (Prague) 43, 73, (Kremnica) 315 South Bohemian Literature Museum
845, 401 Museum of East Bohemia (Zlat Koruna Monastery) 156
Municipal Library (Hradec Krlov) 201 (Pardubice) 205 Spa Museum (Pietany) 300
Municipal Theatre (Pardubice) 205 Museum of Ferdi Kostka (Stupava) pilberk (Brno) 23031
Museums and galleries 287 Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101
general information 413, 41415 Museum of Music (Bratislava) 277, 278 Sternberg Palace (Prague) 6061
Ale South Bohemian Gallery Museum of Ukraine-Ruthenian tr Museum (Modra) 286
(Hlubok nad Vltavou) 135, 140 Culture (Svidnk) 333 Teplice Museum 191
Asian art collection (Zbraslav Museum of Weapons and Town Town Museum (Marinsk Lzn) 169
Chateau) 105 Fortifications (Bratislava) 279 Trade Fair Palace (Prague) 1023
Battle of Dukla Museum (Svidnk) Museum of West Slovakia (Trnava) Trenn Museum 301
333 2967 Tn nad Vltavou Museum 141
Beethoven Museum (Doln Krup) Museum of Wine Production tk Art Gallery 190
295 (Bratislava) 277 Wallachian Open-Air Museum
Brewing Museum (Plze) 163 Music Museum (Trnava) 297 (Ronov pod Radhotm) 223
Central Slovak Museum (Bansk National Museum (Prague) 43, 89, Warhol Family Museum of Modern
Bystrica) 31011 9091 Art (Medzilaborce) 332
erven Kltor Museum 317 Nitra Museum 304 West Bohemian Museum (Plze) 163
Cheb Museum 169 North Bohemian Art Gallery Zhorsk Gallery (Senica) 294
Chod Castle and Museums (Litomice) 190 Music 4003
(Domalice) 168 North Bohemian Museum (Liberec) Czech 223
Chopin Museum (Marinsk Lzn) 183 festivals 2830, 202, 2569, 401, 403
169 Novohradsk Museum (Luenec) 323 Music (Mucha) 25
City Gallery (Bratislava) 279, 282 Nov Jin Museum 223 Music Museum (Trnava) 297
City Museum (Bratislava) 278 Olomouc Art Museum 217 Mussolini, Benito 45
Decorative Arts Museum (Prague) Porta Coeli Museum (Tinov) 234 Myslbek, Josef 42, 90, 211
81, 82 Postal Museum (Vy Brod Pemysl and Libue 25
Diocesan Museum (Litomice) 190 Monastery) 147
Dvok Museum (Prague) 92 Povask Museum (imany) 322 N
Dvoks Birthplace (Nelahozeves) Prchesk Museum (Psek) 157 Nchod 210
1267 Prague Castle Picture Gallery 54, 56 restaurants 386
440 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Ndasdy, Ferenc 300 Nov Zmky 2623, 291, 305 Palaces (cont)
Nmt na Han Palace 220 hotels 360 Brunswick Palace (Doln Krup)
Nmst Dr E Benee (Liberec) 182 restaurants 392 255, 295
Nmst Pemysla Otakara II (esk Novohradsk Museum (Luenec) 323 Buchlovice Chateau 239
Budjovice) 138 Novotn, Antonin 46 astolovice Palace 117, 211
Nmst Republiky (Plze) 163 Nov Jin 223 ernn Palace (Prague) 623
Nmst Svobody (Brno) 229 hotels 355 Ditrichstein Palace (Brno) 228
Nmst Svornosti (esk Krumlov) 152 restaurants 387 Dob Palace 119, 121, 130
Nmestie SNP (Bansk Bystrica) 31011 Nov Smokovec, restaurants 393 Duchcov Palace 192
Nmestie SNP (Bratislava) 283 Nuclear power station (Temeln) 140 Edelmann Palace (Olomouc) 218
Napoleon 40, 41, 207, 232, 265, 278, 285 Nyary, Count Karol 279 Esterhzy Palace (Bratislava) 282
Nardo di Cione 321 Grassalkovich Palace (Bratislava) 284
National Monument (ikov) 1001 O Hrdek u Nechanic Palace 205
National Museum (Prague) 43, 89, Ohrada Hunting Lodge 140 Hrznsk Palace (Prague) 76
9091 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague) 8081 Jaromice nad Rokytnou Chateau 236
National parks Old Post Office (Nov Jin) 223 Karlova Koruna Palace (Chlumec
esk vcarsko 179, 1889 Old Royal Palace (Prague) 55, 56 nad Cidlinou) 206
Krkonoe National Park 195, 2089 Old Town Hall (Bratislava) 272, 277, 278 Kinsk Palace (Prague) 72
Pieniny National Park 317 Old Town Hall (Brno) 228 Klterec nad Oh Palace 193
Podyj National Park 236 Old Town Hall (Prague) 72, 745 Koruna Palace (Prague) 88
umava National Park 1489, 166 Old Town Square (Jansa) 72 Kynvart Palace (Lzn Kynvart) 169
Tatra National Park 316 Old Town Square (Prague) 72, 74 Lny Palace 127
National Revival, Czech 41, 423, 100 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 789 Lednice Chateau 227, 238
literature of 26 Olomouc 212, 213, 21619 Lucerna Palace (Prague) 90
music of 22 hotels 3556 Mantn Palace 161, 173
Where to See the National Revival 43 map: Town Centre 217 Martinic Palace (Prague) 62
Organ Festival 30 Mirbach Palace (Bratislava) 276, 279
National Theatre (Prague) 42, 43,
restaurants 387 Mnichovo Hradit Palace 125
945, 400
Street-by-Street map: Horn nmst Mojmrovce Palace 3045
NATO 47, 251, 267
21819 Nmt na Han Palace 220
Nature reserve, Soos 159, 172
Olomouc Town Hall 216, 21819 Nov Hrady Palace 2023
Nazi regime 16, 456, 2667, 273
Onell, Jn 283 Nov Msto nad Metuj Palace 197
Church of St Cyril and St
Opava 213, 221 Old Royal Palace (Prague) 55, 56
Methodius (Prague) 96
hotels 356 Orlk Palace 157
Jewish Historical Sites 237
restaurants 387 Palace of St Anton (near Bansk
see also Slovak National Uprising
Opening hours tiavnica) 314
Nedvdice, restaurants 389
business hours 413 Plffy Palace (Bratislava) 2823
Nelahozeves 1267
museums and historic sites 413, Perntejn Palace (Litomyl) 202
restaurants 379
41415 Plumlov Palace 213, 220
Nmec, Jan 27 restaurants 366 Pemyslid Palace (Olomouc) 217
Neruda, Jan 26, 63, 100 shops 396, 398 Primates Palace (Bratislava) 265,
Nerudova Street (Prague) 63 Opera 89, 91, 202, 401 277, 2789
Neumann, Franz 184 Opono 211 Rjec nad Svitavou Chateau 233
New Bridge (Bratislava) 250, 283 hotels 355 Rkczy Palace (Preov) 332
New Town Hall (Brno) 2289 Oppenheim, Rabbi David 80 Renaissance Palace (Galanta) 304
New Town Hall (Prague) 96 Oravsk Castle 307, 315 Schwarzenburg Palace (Prague) 62
New Year 31, 259 Oravsk Podzmok, hotels 363 Slatiany Palace 204
Night transport 430 Organ Festival (Olomouc) 30 Slavkov Chateau 232
Nightlife 401, 403 Orlick mountain range 195 Sternberg (Prague) 6061
Nitra 291, 304 Orlk Palace 157 Summer Palace (Bratislava) 255
hotels 360 Oadnica, events 257 Sychrov Palace 187
restaurants 3912 Osek, restaurants 384 Tel Chateau 235
North Bohemia 17893 Osek Monastery 192 Teplice Palace 180, 191
getting around 181 Ostrava 213, 222 Thun-Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 62
hotels 3534 hotels 356 Thurzo House (Bansk Bystrica)
map 18081 restaurants 387 31011
restaurants 3845 Otakar I, King 34 Topolianky Palace 323
North Bohemian Art Gallery Otakar II (Pemysl), King 34, 127, Troja Palace (Prague) 98, 1045
(Litomice) 190 138, 156, 157, 192, 202 Uherice Chateau 236
North Bohemian Museum (Liberec) 183 pilberk (Brno) 230 Valtice Chateau 225, 227, 238
North Moravia and Silesia 21223 tomb 58 Velk Levre 289
getting around 215 Ottoman Empire 291 Velk Uherce Palace 3223
hotels 3556 Veltrusy Chateau 126
map 21415 P Vranov nad Dyj Chateau 236
restaurants 3878 Pajtn Castle 288 Wallenstein Palace (Prague) 50, 66
Nov Hrady 1467 Palaces Zbraslav Chateau (Prague) 105
Nov Hrady Palace 2023 Adria Palace (Prague) 88 see also Castles and fortifications
Nov Msto (Prague) 8696 Archbishops Palace (Koice) 330 Palach, Jan 46, 47, 90
hotels 3467 Archbishops Palace (Krom) 2401 memorial (Prague) 89
map 87 Archbishops Palace (Prague) 62 Plffy, Count Jan Frantiek 264, 32021
restaurants 3767 Beov Castle and Palace 173 Plffy, Marshal Leopold 283
Nov Msto (Prague) (cont) Bernolkovo Palace 289 Plffy family 286, 287, 288, 294
Street-by-Street map: Around Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Plffy Palace (Bratislava) 2823
Wenceslas Square 889 Bishops Palace (Spisk Kapitula) 339 Palko, Franz, The Celebration of the
Nov Msto nad Metuj 211 Boskovice Chateau 2323 Holy Trinity 65
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 441

Panslavism 261 Plenik, Josip Pressburg see Bratislava

Pardubice 195, 2045 Lny Palace 127 Pressburg, Treaty of (1805) 265, 278
Great Pardubice Steeplechase 30 Pleniks Gardens 57 Pribina, Prince 291, 304
hotels 355 Pluhv dr Castle 141 Pbor 2223
restaurants 386 Plumlov Palace 213, 220 restaurants 388
Park Spring Colonnade (Karlovy Plze 159, 1625 Pbram 13031
Vary) 175 events 30 hotels 350
Parking 430, 431 hotels 353 restaurants 379
Parks and gardens map 163 Pibylina
Betliar 255 restaurants 383 events 258
Botanical Gardens and Zoo Plze Madonna 165 hotels 363
(Liberec) 183 Potky 141 Priessnilz, Vinzenz 221
Charles Square public garden Podbrady 124 Primates Palace (Bratislava) 265, 277,
(Prague) 93 restaurants 379 2789
Franciscan Garden (Prague) 88, 90 Podolinec 333 Pimda Castle 159, 168
Lny Park 127 Podyj National Park 236 Princip, Gavrilo 191
Lednicko-Valtick arel 225, 227, Police 416, 417 Private homes, accommodation in
238 Polish minority 213 343
Mlyany Arboretum 323 Polvka, Oswald 43, 199 Public holidays 31, 259
Palace Gardens below Prague Pomona (Maillol) 102 Pchov, restaurants 393
Castle 67 Poprad Punkva Caves 18, 233
Palace Park Klterec nad Oh 193 events 256, 257 Puppet Museum (Chrudim) 204
Petn Hill (Prague) 67 hotels 365
Priessnitz Park (Jesenk) 214 restaurants 395 Q
Royal Garden (Prague) 57 Porcelain 25 Quadi tribe 33
South Gardens (Prague Castle) 55, 57 Porta Coeli convent (Tinov) 224, 234 Questenberg, Johann Adam von 236
Veltrusy Chateau 126 Porta Coeli Museum (Tinov) 234 Quitainer, Johan Anton 63
Wallenstein Palace and Gardens Post see Mail services
(Prague) 66 Postal Museum (Vy Brod R
Parler, Peter 20 Monastery) 147 Raab, Ignaz 232
Charles Bridge (Prague) 689 Povask Museum (imany) 322 Rab fortress 148, 157
Dominican Monastery (esk Prachatice 156 Raa 285
Budjovice) 138 hotels 351 Radek Pila Museum (Jin) 207
Old Royal Palace (Prague) 56 restaurants 381 Radhot 223
St Barbaras Cathedral (Kutn Prachner, Richard and Peter 64 Radvansk jarmok (Bansk Bystrica) 258
Hora) 122 Prachovsk skly reserve 207 Rail travel
St Bartholomew (Koln) 124 Prager, Karel 94 in Czech Republic 4267
St Vituss Cathedral (Prague) 589 Prague 48113 international services 425
Vy Brod Monastery 147 airport 424 in Slovakia 4289
Partiznske, restaurants 393 Art Nouveau in Prague 97 Rainfall 30, 258
Paul II, Pope 38 Castle 547 Rjec nad Svitavou Chateau 233
Pavol of Levoa, Master 312, 334 events 2831 Rkoczi II, Ferenz 263, 294, 305
Pec pod Snkou 209 Further Afield 98105 Rakoczy Palace (Preov) 332
Pelhimov 141 getting around 430 Rastislav, King of Great Moravia 285
Pensions 343 hotels 3449 Records Museum (Pelhimov) 141
Perntejn Castle 225, 234 Hradany and Mal Strana 5269 Red Army 46, 267
Perntejn Palace (Litomyl) 202 maps Red House (esk Lpa) 187
Personal security 41617 Further Afield 99 Reduta (Bratislava) 282
Penek, Zdenk, Torso 103 Prague at a glance 5051 Reformation, the 358, 263
Petn Hill (Prague) 67 Street Finder 10613 Regional Gallery (Liberec) 183
Pezinok 286 Street-by-Street: Around Reichenberg see Liberec
hotels 360 Wenceslas Square 889 Reiner, Vclav Vavinec 83, 186, 192
restaurants 392 Street-by-Street: Prague Castle 545 Rejsek, Matthias 75
Pharmacies 416, 417 Street-by-Street: Star Msto 723 Religion 1617, 248
Pieniny mountains 307, 317 Nov Msto 8696 Religious architecture 2021
Pieniny National Park 317 restaurants 3727 Rembrandt, Scholar in his Study 61
Pietany 291, 300 Star Msto and Josefov 7285 Renaissance architecture 254
hotels 36061 Prague Market 396 epa, Ondej 223
Pila, Redek 207 Prague Spring 467, 267 Resistance movement 96
Pilgram, Anton 228, 255, 286 Prague Uprising Restaurants
Pilgrimage to Marian Sanctuary 1848 41 general information 3667
(Levoa) 257 1945 28, 46 Central Bohemia 3789
Pilsner Urquell Brewery 88, 162, 163, Prandtauer, Jakob 236 Central Slovakia 3924
167, 193, 370 Pravicka brna (esk vcarsko) East Bohemia 3856
Pinkas, Rabbi 82 116, 188 East Slovakia 3945
Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 80, 82 Prask Bridge (Hradec Krlov) 199 North Bohemia 3845
Psek 157 Price 28 North Moravia and Silesia 3878
hotels 351 Preisler, Jan 199 South Bohemia 38082
restaurants 381 Pemysl and Libue (Myslbek) 25 South Moravia 3889
Pittsburgh Agreement 44, 266 Pemyslid dynasty 334, 100, 228 West Bohemia 3823
Plague Column (Brno) 229 Pemyslid Palace (Olomouc) 217 The Resurrection of Christ (Spranger) 55
Plague Monument (Hradec Krlov) 198 Perov, restaurants 388 Ried, Benedikt 56, 122
Plasy Monastery 159, 161, 176 Preov 332 Riegl, Anton P 255
Platzer, Ignaz 54, 65, 96 hotels 365 Rieneck, Count Nostitz 84
Plaveck Castle 294 restaurants 395 Rigele, Alois 284
442 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Road travel 427, 429 Szava Monastery 119, 121, 131 Slovensk kras 252, 271, 325
Rock climbing 404, 407 Schauberger, Jan J 216 A Tour of the Slovensk kras 3367
Rock towns, Ardpach-Teplice Rocks Schiele, Egon 152 restaurants 395
210 Schikaneder, Jakub, Evening in Slovensk rj 325
Rohae 271 Hradany 102 Small Carpathian Museum (Pezinok) 286
Rohsky Waterfall 316 Schmidt, Anton 313 Small Carpathians 291, 292, 294, 295
Roma (Gypsies) 248 Schnirch, Bohuslav 94 Smetana, Bedich 22, 28, 29, 42
Romanesque architecture 20 Scholar in his Study (Rembrandt) 61 The Bartered Bride 156
Romans 33, 261, 285, 291, 301 Schpf, Jan Adam 138 Smetana Hall (Municipal House,
Rondel (Jindichv Hradec) 144 Schulz, Josef 90, 94 Prague) 85
Rottmayr, Johann Michal 236 Schwarz, Tom 64 Smetana Museum (Litomyl) 202
Roudnice nad Labem, restaurants 379 Schwarzenberg, Prince Josef Adam 154 Smetana Museum (Prague) 83
Royal Garden (Prague) 57 Schwarzenberg Canal 149 Vyehrad Cemetery (Prague) 100
Romberk family 38, 135, 141, 146, Schwarzenberg family 135, 140, 152, Smetanova Litomyl International
147, 152, 153 157 Opera Festival 29
Romberk nad Vltavou Schwarzenberg Mausoleum (near Smoking, in restaurants 367
Castle 147, 149 Tebo) 146 Smokovce 307
hotels 351 Schwarzenburg Palace (Prague) 62 Smolenice Castle 294
Ronava, hotels 365 Secession movement 97 Snka 209
Ronov pod Radhotm 213, 223 Seeberg Castle 172 Sninsk Crag 332
Rubens, Peter Paul 56, 127, 282 Senec 289 Snowboarding 404, 407, 409
The Martyrdom of St Thomas 61 hotels 361 Sobslav 141
Rudolfinum (Prague) 43, 82, 401 restaurants 392 Sobotka 207
Rudolph I, Emperor 105 Senica 294 Sochor, E 216
Rudolph II, Emperor 39 Servadori, G N 130 Sokol Movement 97
Csask dm (Plze) 162 Shopping 3969 Sokolovsk Nmst (Liberec) 182
Prague Castle Picture Gallery 56 Shrovetide 259 Solimena, Francesco 64
Svt Jur 286 Sigismund of Luxemburg, Emperor Solivar (Preov) 332
Rural architecture, Slovak 315 35, 367, 301 Soos Nature Reserve 159, 172
Rusovce 285 Silesia see North Moravia and Silesia Souches, Louis de 305
Ruomberok Silesian Municipal Museum (Opava) 221 South Bohemia 13457
hotels 363 Singing Fountain (Koice) 328, 330 getting around 137
restaurants 393 Skiing 404, 407, 409 hotels 35052
Ruzyn Airport (Prague) 424 koch House (Tbor) 142 map 1367
Ryba, Jan Jakub 22 koda 125, 162 restaurants 38082
Rychnov nad Knnou 386 krta, Karel 40, 64, 67, 186 South Bohemia Museum (esk
Slan, restaurants 379 Budjovice) 139
S Slatiany Palace 204 South Bohemian Literature Museum
St Barbaras Cathedral (Kutn Hora) Slavn Monument (Bratislava) 284 (Zlat Koruna Monastery) 156
1223 Slavkov Chateau 232 South Gardens (Prague Castle) 55, 57
St Cyril (Bart) 248 Slavkov u Brna 232 South Moravia 22439
St Elizabeth (Master Theodoric) 24 restaurants 389 getting around 226
St Huberts Day (Pibylina) 258 Slavonic Monastery (Emauzy) hotels 3567
St Jude (Braun) 56 (Prague) 923 map 2267
St Luitgard (Braun) 69 Slavonice 146 restaurants 3889
St Martins Cathedral (Bratislava) 254, hotels 351 Soviet Union 15, 467
28081 Slobslav I 56 pla, Vclav 199
St Matthews Fair (Prague) 31 Slovak Agricultural Museum (Nitra) Spanish Synagogue (Prague) 77
St Nicholas Square (Trnava) 296 270, 304 Spas 159, 174, 405, 408
St Vituss Cathedral (Prague) 50, 54, Slovak National Gallery (Bratislava) 282 Spa Museum (Pietany) 300
589 Slovak National Museum (Bratislava) Spazzi, Pietro and Antonio 296
St Wenceslas and St Vitus (Spranger) 32 278, 287 Spazzio di Lancio, Marco 186
aldy, Divadlo F X 182 Slovak National Museum in Martin 315 Spech, Martin 279
Sales, seasonal 396 Slovak National Theatre (Bratislava) Spezza, Andrea 66
Sm na javisku (Trenin) 256 255, 282 pilberk (Brno) 23031
Samo, Prince 33, 261 Slovak National Uprising (1944) 251, pillar, Karel 84
Samsons Fountain (esk Budjovice) 267, 283, 307, 310 pindlerv Mln 209
138, 139 SNP Museum (Bansk Bystrica) 311 restaurants 386
Santini, Giovanni 40, 195 Slovak Paradise see Slovensk rj Spinetti, G M 154
Bishops Palace (Hradec Krlov) 198 Slovak Philharmonic Orchestra 402 Spirits and liqueurs 371
Chlum sv. M 172 Slovak Village Museum (Martin) 315 Spi Castle 2689, 325, 3389
Church of Our Lady (Ktiny) 232 Slovakia tournament 257, 339
Karlova Koruna Palace (Chlumec Bratislava 27289 Spisk Kapitula 251, 339
nad Cidlinou) 206 Central Slovakia 30623 Spisk Nov Ves
Mantn Palace 173 East Slovakia 32439 hotels 365
Marinsky Tnec 177 history 2617 restaurants 395
Santini, Giovanni (cont) hotels 35865 Spisk Star Ves, restaurants 395
Plasy Monastery 176 maps 2467, 27071 Spiske Podhradie
dar Castle and St John Nepomuk Portrait of 24955 hotels 365
Church (dr nad Szavou) 234 restaurants 39095 restaurants 395
ari Muzeum (Bardejov) 315, 333 Through the Year 2569 pork, Count Frantiek Antonn 195, 210
auntejn Castle 189 Slovakia (cont) Sport and leisure 4049
Savery, Roleandt, The Garden of Eden travel 4245, 4289 Spranger, Bartholomeus 56, 57
(1618) 61 West Slovakia 290305 The Resurrection of Christ 55
Szava, hotels 350 Slovensk Rudohorie mountains 252, 336 St Wenceslas and St Vitus 32
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 443

pulak House (Hradec Krlov) 198 Swimming 31, 256 Thurzo House (Bansk Bystrica) 31011
Srch, restaurants 386 Sychrov Palace 187 Thurzo House (Levoa) 252, 334
Srn 148 Synagogues Tickets
Stachy, restaurants 381 Former Synagogue (Hradec air tickets 425
Stadler, V 299 Krlov) 199, 201 entertainment 400, 402
Stalin, Josef 46 Former Synagogue (Koice) 329 train tickets 426, 428
Star Hunting Lodge (Prague) 101 Grand Synagogue (Boskovice) 233, Time zone 415
Star Lesn, hotels 365 237 Tipping, in restaurants 366
Star Hory, hotels 363 Great Synagogue (Plze) 116, 162 Tinov 234
Star Msto and Josefov (Prague) 7285 Jewish Historical Sites 237 restaurants 389
hotels 3456 Lede nad Szavou 203 Tiso, Monsignor Josef 267, 284
map 71 Louny 192 Titian
restaurants 3735 Luenec 323 Archbishops Palace (Krom) 240
Star Msto Street-by-Street map 723 Maisel (Prague) 51, 79 The Toilet of a Young Lady 56
Star Msto Bridge Tower (Prague) 69 Malacky 288 Tonk Castle 127
Stark House (Tbor) 143 Old-New Synagogue (Prague) 789 The Toilet of a Young Lady (Titian) 56
Star Smokovec 317 Pinkas Synagogue (Prague) 80, 82 Topolianky Palace 323
hotels 363 Rear (New) Synagogue (Teb) Topoliansky Castle 300
restaurants 393 235, 237 Torso (Penek) 103
State Opera (Prague) 89, 91 Senec 289 Tourist information 412, 414
State Theatre (Koice) 329 Spanish Synagogue (Prague) 77 Tourist tax 343
Stations 4267, 428 Stupava 287 Tours by car
Prague Main Station 51, 91 Trnava 297 esk rj 2067
tech, Rudolf 162 Zadn/Nov Synagogue (Teb) 235 Slovensk kras 3367
tefnik, General Milan Rastislav Szalatnai-Slatinsk, Artur 297 The umava 1489
monumental tomb 296 Tovrniky Castle 304
efnik Museum (Koarisk) 295 T Town halls
Steinfels, Johann Jakob 172 Tbor 135, 1423 Jewish Town Hall (Prague) 77
Stella, Paolo della 57 hotels 351 Levoa town hall 254, 3345
Stephen I, St, King of Hungary 262 restaurants 3812 Liberec town hall 181, 1845
Sternberg, Count 104 Taborites 36 New Town Hall (Brno) 2289
Sternberg, Franz Josef 60 Tatra National Park 316 New Town Hall (Prague) 96
Sternberg Castle (Central Bohemia) Tatransk Lomnica Old Town Hall (Bratislava) 272,
1289, 131 hotels 3634 277, 278
ternberk Castle (North Moravia) 221 restaurants 394 Old Town Hall (Brno) 228
Sternberg Chapel (Plze) 165 Tatras mountains 249, 252, 253, 307, Old Town Hall (Prague) 72, 745
Sternberg Palace (Prague) 6061 31617 Olomouc town hall 216, 21819
Sternberg-Phipps, Franziska Diana 211 map 31617 Toyen 25
ternberk, hotels 356 Taxis 430, 431 Trade Fair Palace (Prague) 1023
Stoppard, Tom 239 Tel 225, 226, 235 Trains see Rail travel
torch House (Prague) 72 hotels 357 Trams 430, 431
Strahov Monastery (Prague) 63 restaurants 389 Transport 42431
Strakonice 157 Telephone services 4223 Travellers cheques 419, 420
restaurants 381 Temeln 140 Teb 225, 235
Strnice 29 Temperatures 31, 259 hotels 357
trbsk Pleso Tencalla, Giovanni Pietro 216 restaurants 389
hotels 363 Tennis 405, 406, 408, 409 Tebo 135, 146
restaurants 394 Tepl Monastery 159, 177 hotels 352
Stekov Castle 15, 191 Teplice 191 restaurants 382
Stbro 168 hotels 354 Tebo, Master of 77, 140
Studnini hora 209 restaurants 3845 Trenianske Teplice 291, 301
Stummer family 300 Terchov, events 257 events 257
Stupava 287 Terezn 45, 82, 19091 hotels 361
tr, Ludovt 263, 285 Teutonic Knights 221 restaurants 392
tr Museum (Modra) 286 Theatre Trenn 291, 301, 3023
Sturmer, Josef 216 Czech Republic 27, 400 events 256
trovo, hotels 361 festivals 28, 30, 256 hotels 361
Sucharda, Stanislav 91 Slovakia 402 Musical Spring Festival 256
Sudetenland 45, 182, 266 Theft 416, 417 restaurants 392
Suk, Josef 23 Theimer, Ivan 218 Trizulijak, Alexander 284
umava Mountains 18, 135, 1489, 159 Theodoric, Master 56, 77, 132 Trnava 249, 291, 2969
umava National Park 1489, 166 St Elizabeth 24 events 257, 258
Summer Countryside with Chapel 55 Thirty Years War 33, 39, 40, 56, 157 hotels 361
Summer Palace (Bratislava) 255 East Bohemia 195 Musical Spring Festival 256
Sunny Lakes resort 289 Frdlant Castle 186 map 297
Sunshine 29, 257 Jin 2067 Troja Palace (Prague) 98, 1045
Sv. Jan pod Skalou 130 Perntejn Castle 234 Trolleybuses 431
vabinsk, Max 25, 211 White Mountain and Star Hunting Trosky Castle 207
Svt Jur 286 Lodge 101 Trutnov
hotels 361 Thkly, Count Imre 263, 333 hotels 355
Svt Kr 322 Thomasberger 216 restaurants 386
Svrk, Jan 27 Thun-Hohenstein Palace (Prague) 62 Tuba Competition (Brno) 30
Svidnk 315, 325, 333 Thun-Hohenstein tomb (Klterec Tuek, Jan 122
hotels 365 nad Oh) 193 Tulka, Josef, National Theatre
vihov Castle 159, 166 Thurzo family 310, 320 (Prague) 94
444 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Turkish Empire 38, 2623 Volary 149 Wine

Turkish House (Senec) 289 Vranov nad Dyj, hotels 357 Moravias 239
TV Tower, ikov 101 Vranov nad Dyj Chateau 236 Raa 285
Tyl, Josef Kajetn 84 Vratislav I, Prince 56 shopping for 397, 399
Tyl Theatre (Plze) 162 Vratislav II, King 33 What to Drink 371
Tn nad Vltavou 14041 Vratislav of Mitrovice, Count 76 Witch-burning 28
Vratislav of Perntejn 202 Without Frontiers (Bez Hranic)
U Vrchlab 208 Theatre Festival (esk Tn) 28
U Bernka Hotel (Nchod) 210 hotels 355 World War I 44, 266, 273
U Flek (Prague) 96 Vyehrad (Prague) 100 World War II 15, 16, 456, 131, 273
U Pinkas 88 Church of St Cyril and St
Vy Brod, Master of the 77, 147
U Rotta (Prague) 72 Methodius (Prague) 96
Vy Brod Monastery 147
Uherice Chateau 236 Monument to the Red Army
horn 336 W soldiers (Bratislava) 284
Ukraine-Ruthenian Culture Museum
(Svidnk) 333
Wagner, Richard 159, 191
Wagner, Antonn 95
Y
Youth hostels 342, 343
Ulice Horn (esk Krumlov) 152 Walking
Ulice Prask (Tbor) 143
Urban, Frantiek 123
in Prague and Bratislava 430, 431 Z
see also Hiking Zachari, Lord 235
Urban Tower (Koice) 328, 330 Wallachian Open-Air Museum Zdielska Valley 337
Urbnek, Ferko 284 (Ronov pod Radhotm) 223 Zahner, Ondej 216
tk 179, 190 Wallenstein, Albrecht von 39, 66, 67 Zpolya, Imre 333
st nad Labem 180, 191 Cheb Museum 169 Zpolya family 338, 339
restaurants 385 Frdlant Castle 186 atec 193
Utraquists 36, 37, 38 Jin 2067 hotels 354
Mnichovo Hradit Palace 125 restaurants 385
V Vrchlab Castle 208 Zbraslav Chateau (Prague) 105
Vchal, Josef 199 dr nad Szavou 234
Wallenstein family 192, 193
Vclav II, King 34 hotels 357
Wallenstein Houses (Liberec) 182
Vclav III, King 34 restaurants 389
Wallenstein Palace and Gardens
Vclav IV, King 35 dar Castle 234
(Prague) 50, 66
Vah, River 291 diar 317
Warhol, Andy 332
Valdice 207 restaurants 394
Warhol Family Museum of Modern
Valdice Gate (Jin) 207 Zdk, Bishop Jindich 217
Art (Medzilaborce) 332
Valdtejn Castle 206 ehra 325, 339
Water, drinking 416, 417
Valley of the Five Spis Tarns 31819 elezn Panna (esk Budjovice) 139
Water Fortress (Jesenk) 221 eliezovce, restaurants 392
Valtice Chateau 225, 227, 238
Water sports 405, 408 elivsk, Jan 96
Van Cleve, Henrick, Cardinal Cesis
Weinzettel, Vclav 199 Zeln trh (Brno) 228
Garden in Rome 60
Wenceslas II, King 66, 105 Zeman, Karel 27
Van Dyck, Archbishops Palace
Wenceslas IV 105, 127, 157 enek, Frantiek 91, 94
(Krom) 240
Vegetarians 367 Wenceslas, Prince (Saint) 33 Zichy Castle (Rusovce) 285
Velehrad Monastery 239 Chapel and tomb 58, 59 ilina 322
Velhartice Castle 148, 158, 166 statue (Prague) 89, 90 hotels 364
Velk Amerika gorge (esk Kras) 130 Wenceslas Square (Prague) 87, 89, 90 restaurants 394
Velk Levre 2889 Street-by-Street map 889 irovnice 141
Velk nmst (Hradec Krlov) 198 West Bohemia 15877 Ztek, Josef 94, 175
getting around 161 itn ostrov 300
Velk Uherce Palace 3223
hotels 3523 ika, Jan 367, 143, 157
Veltrusy Chateau 126
map 16061 Cathedral of the Holy Ghost
Velvet Divorce 47, 249, 261
restaurants 3823 (Hradec Krlov) 198
Velvet Revolution 15, 16, 47, 88, 267
West Bohemian Museum (Plze) 163 equestrian statue (ikov) 100
Monument to the Victims of
West Slovakia 290305 ikov 100101
Communism (Prague) 89 Zlat Koruna Monastery 18, 156
Wenceslas Square (Prague) 90 getting around 293
leby Castle 204
Victorious February 46 hotels 36061
Zln 239
Vihorlat 332 map 2923
restaurants 389
Vihorlat mountains 325 restaurants 3912
Znojmo 225, 238
Villa Tugendhat (Brno) 225, 229 Westphalia, Peace of 39, 40
hotels 357
The Virgin (Klimt) 102 Wetschel, Hans 154 restaurants 389
Visas 412, 414 White Mountain, Battle of 39, 67, 74, Zoos and wildlife parks
Vitkov, Battle of 37 99, 101, 125, 186 Botanical Gardens and Zoo
Vladislav I, King 176, 177 White Tower (Hradec Krlov) 198, 200 (Liberec) 183
Vladislav II Jagiello, King 38, 56, 105, White Unicorn Apothecary (Klatovy) 166 Dvr Krlov Zoo 210
123, 127, 176 White-water rafting 408 Zrzav, Jan 199
Vladislav Hall (Old Royal Palace, Wiedermann, G 175 Cleopatra 102
Prague) 20, 38, 56 Wiehl House (Prague) 88 Zuberec 316
Vlkolnec 309, 315, 322 Wildlife umberk 147
Vltava, River 18, 135, 152, 157 Czech Republic 1819 Zvkov Castle 157
flooding 83, 126 Slovakia 253 Zvolen 314
swimming competitions 31 see also National parks; Zoos and restaurants 394
Vojtch see Adalbert, St wildlife parks Zvolen Castle 270, 308, 314
 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 445

Acknowledgments
Hachette Livre Polska wishes to thank the to take photographs inside their premises; and to
following people at Dorling Kindersley: use photographs from their archives:

Publisher Artothek (Susanne Vierthaler).

Douglas Amrine Chram sv. Barbory, Kutna Hora, for permission to
photograph inside the church.
Publishing Manager Corbis (Bartomiej Sych).
Anna Streiffert Kunsthistorisches Museum, Wien (Ilse Jung)
Muzeum Krom (Jii Strnsk)
Managing Art Editor Muzeum Msta Brna (Pavel Ciprian) for
Kate Poole permission to photograph pilberk.
Muzeum Jindichohradecka (Jaroslav Pikal)
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Consultant Editor Dokoupilova) for permission to photograph
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Cartography (Renta Sdlova).
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Corejova). Umleckoprmyslov museum v Praze
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Sonal Bhatt (Michael Dunayevsky).

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Profimedia CZ s.r.o 14, 118, 1289, 150151, 242 NRODN GALERIE V PRAZE: Graficka sbirka 37br,
3; Profimedia International s.r.o 11 bl; Michaela 39cbr, 95br; Klaster sv Anezky 77cl; Klaster sv.
Duskov 11tc; Iveta Mudrochov 47tl; Jan Jiri 32; Milan Posselt 55cb; ternbersk Palac
Wlodarczyk 245tc; zdspics 244ca; ARCHV HLAVNIHO 6061 all; Veletrzni Palac 1023 all; NRODN
MESTA, PRAHY (CLAM-GALLASUV PALC): 39bl, 74tr, KNIHOVNA ESK REPUBLIKY: 38tl; NARODNI MUSEUM
ARCHIWUM ZDJE KARELA KRYLA: 23c; ARKADA HOTEL: V PRAZE: Vlasta Dvorakova 35cr, 36bl, 367c, 37c,
343tl; ART ARCHIV: Janaek Museum Brno/Dagli
37cl, 38bc, 39bc, 74bl; Muzeum Bedricha
Orti 23t; ARTOTHEK: 24cr, 25cl, 25br; AV STUDIO:
262t, 263t, 263bra. Smetany 42bl; Tyrsovo Muzeum 97bl; NRODNI
BRIDGEMAN ART LIBRARY: Jean-Loup Charmet PAMTKOV STAV: St Elizabeth, by Master
Collection 43tl, 72cl; The Meeting of Napoleon and Teodoryk 24cl.
Francis I, by Jean Antoine Gros. 40crb; OBLASTN GALERIE, Liberec: Manor House in
Rosegarten Museum, Constance 36cla; B&W: 99cb Benatky, by August Pettenkofen 183c; OBRAZRNA
(Wojciech Wjcik). PRASKEHO HRADU: 56tl; OFFICIAL TOURISM AND TRAVEL
ESK VCARSKO O. P. S.: 189crb; CORBIS: 22b, 34c, GUIOE TO BRATISLAVA: 277ca; ORSZGOS SZCHNYI
41ba, 42cl, 42tr, 101t; Alinari Archives 174b; KNYVTAR: Tartars Raid miniature 262crb.
Paul Almasy 46bra, Archivo Iconografico,
PHOTOLIBRARY.COM: Jon Arnold Images: 89.
S.A. 40cr; Austrian Archives; Haus-, Hof- und
Staatsarchiv, Vienna 34brb, 266bra; Yannis REGIONAL MUSEUM IN VYSOK MTO: J Junek 26br;
Behrakis/Reuters 409t; Bettmann 26c, 41bb, RESTAURANT LE MONDE: 367tl.
46t, 46brb, 131t; Stefano Bianchetti 265tr; SLOVAK NATIONAL TOURISM CENTRE: 257t, 258t,
Mike Blake/Reuters 409b; David W. erny/ 259b, 312b, 312c, 312tra, 313t, 313ca, 313cb,
Reuters 267bra; John Dakers; Eye Ubiquitous 317br, 322c, 339b, 339cb, 339ca, 343b, 371bl,
426c; Franz-Marc Frei 20tlb, 22tl; Marc 398b, 402t, 402c, 402b, 403t, 409c, 425b, 425c,
Garanger 267t; Hulton-Deutsch Collection 22tr, 425t, 428b; SLOVENSKA NARODNA GALERIA,
(Lancaster) 47t; Petr Josek/Reuters 406b;
George D. Lepp 17tla; Buddy Mays 30tr; BRATISLAVA: Jan Francisci, Captain of Slovak
Gail Mooney 369tl; Ali Meyer 40t, 264c; Insurgents, painting by Peter Michal Buh:
Reuters 47brb, 256c, 406c; Galen Rowell 189t; 260; STTN STREDNI ARCHIV: 34tc; STTN IDOVSK
Rykoff Collection 44brb; Scheufler Collection MUZEUM: 51tr, 79br; LUBOMR STIBUREK: 89ca;
43cla, 43b, 44bra, 44bla, 266t; Liba Taylor 248b; BARBARA SUDNIK-WJCIKOWSKA: 17bla, 252tl, 252cl,
Peter Turnley 14b, 47bc, 47bla; Miroslav 252b, 253cl, 253cr; SVATOVTSK POKLAND, PRAH
Zajic 46c; Zefa 43cra; JOE CORNISH: 489; 97cr. HRAD: 35cl, 35bc.
ROMAN DELIKT: 264b.
MIKOAJ TAANDZIEWICZ: 318319.
SAMANTHA VON GERBIG: 39t; GETTY IMAGES:
Imagno/Contributor 269c; Adam Jones 10cla. U PINKAS RESTAURANT: 368cl; UMLECKOPRMYSLOV
HEMISPHERE IMAGES: Monde/Pawel Wysocki 41011. MUZEUM V PRAZE: 40bc, 97br; GABRIEL
INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL, KARLOVY VARY: 29cr; URBNEK/UMP: 25bl.
ISTOCKPHOTO.COM: narvikk 424bl. ZEFA: 170171.
JON ARNOLD IMAGES: Walter Bibikow 23, 3023.
KANCELR PREZIDENTA REPUBLIKY: 33br; OLDICH
KARASEK: 18cr, 20cl, 28c, 31t, 58tr, 65t, 208bl, Jacket
209cb, 209ca, 209t, 337t, 340341, 370cl; Front PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Jose Fuste
JAROSLAV KLENOVSKY: 237cr; DALIBOR KUSK: 104bl; Raga.
ARCHIVE OF MARLENE KRYL: 23cr; KUNSTHISTORISCHES Back ALAMY IMAGES: Chris Howes/Wild Places
MUSEUM, WIEN: portrait of Emperor Sigismund, by Photography tl; pictureproject bl; AWL IMAGES:
Pisanello 36clb.
LEBRECHT MUSIC AND ARTS PHOTO LIBRARY: RA 27b; Walter Bibikow clb; Gavin Heller cla.
LEONARDO MEDIA LTD.: 367br. Spine PHOTOLIBRARY: age fotostock/Jose Fuste
MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY: 9, 36t, 37t, 41t, 44t, Raga t.
45t, 45bla, 45blb, 49t, 115t, 411c; MESTSKE MUZEUM,
BRATISLAVA: 264265c; MUSEUM OF THE HISTORY OF All other images Dorling Kindersley
SCIENCE, OXFORD: Samantha von Gerbig, 39tl; For further information see: www.dkimages.com

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 P H R A S E B O O K 447

EnglishCzech Phrase Book

In an Emergency camera shop obchod s fotoaparty
Where is the telephone? Kde je telefn? clothes shop odvy
the nearest hospital? nejbli nemocnice? department store obchodn dm
Help! Pomoc! glass, china sklo, porceln
Please call a doctor! Zavolejte doktora! news kiosk novinov stnek
Please call an ambulance! Zavolejte pharmacy lkrna
sanitku! post office pota
Please call the police! Zavolejte policii! shoe shop obuv

Communication Essentials In a Hotel

Yes/No Ano/Ne Do you have a vacant room? Mte voln pokoj?
Please Prosm with a bathroom pokoj s koupelnou
Thank you Dkuji vm with a shower se sprchou
Excuse me/forgive me Promite I have a reservation Mm reservaci
Hello/Good morning Dobr den key kl
Goodbye Na shledanou porter vrtn
Good evening Dobr veer
Goodnight Dobrou noc
What is it? Co to je? Eating Out
Why? Pro Do you have a table free for .? Mte voln stl pro ?
Where? Kde? Id like to reserve a table Chtl(a) bych
When? Kdy? rezervovat stl
today dnes I am a vegetarian Jsem vegetarin(ka)
tomorrow ztra Waiter! Pane vrchn!
yesterday vera The bill, please Prosm, et
morning rno breakfast sndan
afternoon odpoledne lunch obd
evening veer dinner veee
there tam fixed-price menu standardn menu
here tady, zde starter/snack pedkrm
How are you? Jak se mte? dish of the day nabdka dne
Very well thank you Velmi dobe, dkuji main course hlavn jdlo
Where is/are? Kde je/jsou ? dessert dezert
How far is it to ? Jak je to daleko? wine list npojov lstek
Do you speak English? Mluvte anglicky? tip spropitn
I dont understand Nerozumm bill et
Pardon? Prosm?
big/large velk
small mal Menu
hot hork bramborov hranolky chips
cold studen brambory potatoes
open oteveno chlb bread
closed zaveno citrn lemon
entrance vchod cukr sugar
exit vchod aj tea
toilets toalety, zchod dus juice
men/gentlemen mui, pni houby mushrooms
women/ladies eny, damy houska roll
vacant volno hovz beef
engaged obsazeno husa goose
jablko apple
jahody strawberries
Sightseeing jehn lamb
art gallery galerie kachna duck
castle hrad, zmek kapr carp
church kostel kva coffee
garden zahrada knedlky dumplings
old town/city star msto krta turkey
palace palc / zmek kue chicken
railway station ndra mslo butter
square nmst maso meat
street ulice minerlka mineral water
stop (bus, tram) zastvka umiv fizzy
theatre divadlo neumiv still
ticket lstek mlko milk
tourist information turistick informace ovoce fruit
palainky pancakes
peen baked/roasted
Shopping pep pepper
I would like Chtl(a) bych polvka soup
Do you have ? Mte ? pivo beer
How much does it cost? Kolik to stoj? ryba fish
What time do you open/close? V kolik otevrte/zavrte? re rice
expensive drah salt lettuce, salad
cheap levn smaen fried
size velikost sl salt
number (size) slo sr cheese
colour barva unka ham
uzeniny cold meats, butchers
vejce egg
Shops vepov pork
antiques staroitnictv vno wine
bakery pekrna voda water
bank banka zkusky cakes
bazaar/market trh zelenina vegetables
bookshop knihkupectv zmrzlina ice cream
448 P H R A S E B O O K

EnglishSlovak Phrase Book

In an Emergency clothes shop odevy
Where is the telephone? Kde je telefn? department store obchodn dom
the nearest hospital? najblia nemocnica? glass, china sklo, porceln
Help! Pomoc! news kiosk novinov stnok
Please call a doctor! Prosm, zavolajte lekra! pharmacy lekre
Please call an ambulance! Prosm, zavolajte sanitku! post office pota
Please call the police! Prosm, zavolajte polciu! shoe shop obuv

Communication Essentials In a Hotel

Yes/No no/nie Do you have a vacant room? Mte voln izbu?
Please Prosm with a bathroom Izba s kpelou
Thank you akujem with a shower Izba so sprchou
Excuse me/forgive me Prepte I have a reservation Mm zarezervovan
Hello/Good morning Dobr de key Kl
Goodbye Dovidenia porter vrtnik
Good evening Dobr veer
Goodnight Dobr noc
What is it? o to je? Eating Out
Why? Preo?
Do you have a table free for.? Mte voln stl pre?
Where? Kde?
Id like to reserve a table Chcel/a/ by som
When? Kedy?
zarezervova stl
today dnes
I am a vegetarian Som vegetarin /ka/
tomorrow zajtra
yesterday vera
Waiter! Vrchn, ank
morning rno The bill, please Prosm si et
afternoon odpoludnia breakfast raajky
evening veer lunch obed
there tam dinner veera
here tu, sem fixed-price menu pevn /stla/ cena
How are you? Ako sa m? dish of the day ponuka da
Very well thank you akujem, dobre! starter/snack predjedlo
Where is/are? Kde je/s? main course hlavn jedlo
How far is it to ? Ako daleko je do? dessert dezert, mnik
Do you speak English? Hovorte po anglicky? wine list vinn karta
I dont understand Nerozumiem tip prepitn
Pardon? Povam, prosm? bill et
big/large velk
small mal
Menu
hot horci
cold studen bravov pork
open otvoren aj tea
closed zatvoren chlieb bread
entrance vhod ierne korenie mlet pepper
exit vchod citrn lemon
toilets toalety, WC cukor sugar
men/gentlemen mui, pni ds juice
women/ladies eny, damy hovdzie beef
vacant voln huby mushrooms
engaged obsaden hus goose
kol roll
Sightseeing jablko apple
art gallery galria jahacie lamb
castle hrad, zmok jahody strawberries
church kostol kaka duck
garden zhrada kapor carp
old town/city star mesto kva coffee
palace palc, katiel knedlky dumplings
railway station vlakov stanica kuracina chicken
square nmestie maslo butter
street ulica mso meat
stop (bus, tram) zastvka minerlna voda mineral water
theatre divadlo sten fizzy
ticket lstok nesten still
tourist information turistick informan mlieko milk
centrum moracie turkey
ovocie fruit
palacinky pancakes
Shopping peen baked/roasted
I would like Chcel/a/ by som polievka soup
Do you have ? Mte? pivo beer
How much does it cost? Kolko to stoj? ryba fish
What time do you open/ O ktorej otvrate? rya rice
close? zatvrate? alt lettuce, salad
expensive drah sol salt
cheap lacn syr cheese
size velkost unka ham
number (size) slo deniny cold meats, butchers
colour farba vajka eggs
vno wine
Shops voda water
antiques antikvarit, staroitnosti vypran fried
bakery pekre zkusky cakes
bank banka zelenina vegetables
bazaar/market trnica zemiakov hranolky chips
bookshop knhkupectvo zemiaky potatoes
camera shop fotosluba zmrzlina ice cream