Lonely Planet, Myanmar (Burma) PDF

Lonely Planet Publications
13
Contents
The Authors 16 Around Twante
Letkhokkon Beach
129
129
Pathein 130
Should You Go? 17 Around Pathein

Chaungtha Beach
135
135
Ngwe Saung 138
Getting Started 27 NORTH OF YANGON
Taukkyan
140
140
Bago (Pegu) 140
Itineraries 30
Southeastern
Snapshot 34 Myanmar 147
Climate 148
Dangers & Annoyances 148
History 35 Getting There & Away
MON STATE
148
148
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149
The Culture 48 Thaton 152
Mottama (Martaban) 153
Mawlamyine (Moulmein) 153
Environment 69 Around Mawlamyine 158
KAYIN STATE 160
Hpa-an 161
Food & Drink 74 TANINTHARYI
(TENASSERIM) DIVISION 162
Dawei (Tavoy) 162
Yangon 84 Myeik (Mergui) 164
History 85 Kawthoung 166
Orientation 85
Information 87 Northeastern
Dangers & Annoyances
Sights
89
90
Myanmar 170
Climate 171
Activities 104
Dangers & Annoyances 172
Walking Tour 105
Getting There & Away 172
Courses 106
THAZI TO INLE VIA KALAW 172
Tours 106
Thazi 172
Festivals & Events 106
Kalaw 173
Lonely Planet books Sleeping 106 Aungban 178
provide independent Eating 112 Pindaya 178
advice. Lonely Planet does Drinking 118 Heho 180
not accept advertising in Entertainment 119 Shwenyaung 180
guidebooks, nor do we Shopping 120 INLE LAKE 181
accept payment in Getting There & Away 122 History & Culture 182
exchange for listing or Getting Around 125 Information 183
endorsing any place or Festivals & Events 183
business. Lonely Planet
writers do not accept Around Yangon 126 Nyaungshwe
Around the Lakeshore
183
189
discounts or payments DELTA REGION 127 Around Inle Lake 192
in exchange for positive Thanlyin & Kyauktan 127 KENGTUNG &
coverage of any sort. Twante 128 BORDER AREAS 196
14 CONTENTS
Kengtung (Kyaingtong) 196 Bagan & CENTRAL PLAIN 302

Around Kengtung
Mong La
200
201
Central Myanmar 264 Shwesandaw Paya
Dhammayangyi Pahto
303
303
Tachileik 202 History 266 Sulamani Pahto 304
PYIN U LWIN TO LASHIO 203 Climate 266 Thabeik Hmauk 304
Pyin U Lwin 204 Getting There & Around 266 Pyathada Paya 304
Around Pyin U Lwin 207 BAGAN 266 MYINKABA AREA 304
Kyaukme 209 Orientation 266 Mingalazedi 304
Hsipaw 209 Information 268 Gubyaukgyi 305
Namhsan 213 Boat Trips 268 Manuha Paya 305
Lashio 213 Tours 268 Nan Paya 306
MYITKYINA TO KATHA 217 Getting There & Around 268 Abeyadana Pahto 306
Myitkyina 217 Nyaung U 269 Nagayon 306
Bhamo 220 Old Bagan 273 Somingyi Kyaung 307
Mu-se & Namhkam Valley 221 Myinkaba 275 NEW BAGAN AREA 307
Katha 222 New Bagan Seinnyet Nyima Paya &
(Bagan Myothit) 275 Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307
THE FAR NORTH 224
AROUND BAGAN 277 Lawkananda Paya 307
Putao 224
Mt Popa 277 Ashe (East) & Anauk (West)
Salay 279 Petleik Paya 307
Mandalay 226 Pakokku
Myingyan
280
281
Sittana Paya
SOUTH PLAIN
307
308
History 227
BAGAN TO PYAY 281 Dhammayazika Paya 308
Orientation 227
Magwe 281 Leimyethna Pahto 308
Information 227
Pyay (Prome) 283 Tayok Pye Paya 308
Sights 229
Around Pyay 286 Payathonzu 308
Activities 235
MEIKTILA TO TAUNGOO 287 Thambula Pahto 309
Downtown Walking Tour 235
Meiktila 287 Nandamannya Pahto 309
Mandalay for Children 236
Pyinmana 289 NYAUNG U AREA 309
Taungoo 290 Shwezigon Paya 309
Sleeping 237
Kyanzittha Umin 310
Eating 238
Drinking
Entertainment
240
240
Temples of Bagan 293 North of Nyaung U 310
History 293
Shopping
Getting There & Away
241
242
How Big is Bagan? 296 Western Myanmar 311
OLD BAGAN 297 People 312
Getting Around 245
Gawdawpalin Pahto 297 Climate 313
Mimalaung Kyaung 297 Danger & Annoyances 313
Around Mandalay 246 Pahtothamya 297 Getting There & Around 314
History 247 Nathlaung Kyaung 297 SOUTHERN RAKHAING 314
Climate 248 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298 Ngapali Beach 314
Getting There & Around 248 Shwegugyi 298 Thandwe 317
ANCIENT CITIES 248 Pitaka Taik 299 Kanthaya 318
Amarapura 248 Palace Sites 299 Taunggok 318
Inwa (Ava) 251 Tharaba Gate 299 NORTHERN RAKHAING 319
Paleik 252 Mahabodhi Paya 299 Sittwe 319
Sagaing 252 Bupaya 299 Mrauk U 322
Mingun 254 NORTH PLAIN 300 Around Mrauk U 328
UPPER SAGAING Ananda Pahto 300 CHIN STATE 328
DISTRICT 256 Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 Tours 329
Monywa 256 Upali Thein 301
Htilominlo Pahto 301
Around Monywa
Shwebo
259
260 Buledi 302 Directory 330
Around Shwebo 262 Gubyauknge 302 Accommodation 330
Kalaymyo 262 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 Activities 332
C O N T E N T S 15
Business Hours 334 Telephone 349 Hitching 365

Children 334 Time 350 Local Transport 365
Climate charts 335 Toilets 350 Pick-up Trucks 366
Courses 335 Tourist Information 350 Tours 366
Customs 336 Visas 351 Train 366
Dangers & Annoyances 336 Volunteering 352
Disabled Travellers
Discount Cards
338
339
Women Travellers 352
Health 369
Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
339
340 Transport 354 BEFORE YOU GO
Insurance
369
369
Food 342 GETTING THERE & AWAY 354 Recommended
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 342 Entering the Country 354 Vaccinations 370
Holidays 342 Air 354 Medical Checklist 370
Insurance 342 Land 357 Internet Resources 371
Internet Access 342 River & Sea 358 Further Reading 371
Legal Matters 343 Tours 358 In Transit 371
Maps 343 GETTING AROUND 358 Deep Vein Thrombosis
(DVT) 371
Money 344 Air 358
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 371
Photography & Video 346 Bicycle 360
IN MYANMAR 372
Post 346 Boat 361
Availability of Health Care
Shopping 346 Bus 363 & Costs 372
Solo Travellers 349 Car & Motorcycle 364 Infectious Diseases 372
Travellers Diarrhoea 374
Environmental Hazards 375
Regional Map Contents Travelling With Children

Womens Health
Traditional Medicine
377
377
377
Language 379
Northeastern
Myanmar p171
Glossary 386
Around
Behind the Scenes 389
Mandalay Mandalay
p247 p228
Western
Myanmar
p312 Bagan & Central
Mandalay
World Time Zones 392
p265
Index 395
Around
Yangon
p127
Yangon
p90
Map Legend 404
Southeastern
Myanmar p149
17
Should You Go?

We think its too early for either tourists or investment or aid...
As long as new money comes in, the Slorc is under less and less
incentive to change.
Aung San Suu Kyi, 1995
I have so much respect for the Lady [Suu Kyi], but I disagree with
her. If I had a chance to argue with her, I know shed listen. A 100%
boycotts not possible.
pro-NLD Yangon resident, 2004
Should I go? is a question that Lonely Planet believes that all prospective
travellers to Myanmar must ask, and answer, before setting foot in the As long as
country. The travel boycott initiated by the Nobel Laureate for Peace, new money
Aung San Suu Kyi, and endorsed by the British prime minister, Tony Blair,
and some tour groups began in 1996. Since then, much of the travel- and comes in,
business-related world has been debating the pros and cons of the boycott the Slorc is
amid an often-heated face-off. This section is a small stepping stone to under less
understanding the main issues raised by both sides of the argument.
As part of the debate, Lonely Planet is often asked why we publish and less
this book. We believe that travel is one of the most powerful forces for incentive to
tolerance, understanding and democracy the world possesses. We feel, change
in the case of Myanmar, it is particularly important to maintain an up-
dated resource that helps those who do decide to go maximise the money
reaching local hands in this impoverished country, while minimising the
money reaching the ruling military junta. Aung Sang Suu Kyi said in 1995
that Myanmar wasnt ready for tourism. Yet she also noted that Tourists
can open up the world to the people of Burma just as the people of Burma
can open up the eyes of tourists to the situation in their own country if
theyre interested in looking. We agree.
THE BOYCOTT SPLIT

Myanmar is a land of mystifying contradictions, a country whose spirited
people have withstood centuries of oppression, from Kublai Khan to King
George VI to the present military regime. I disagree
Myanmar remains under the rule of the State Peace & Development with her. If I
Council (SPDC), formerly known as the State Law & Order Restoration
Council (Slorc), an abominable military junta that has run Myanmar since had a chance
1962. After widespread peaceful protests in 1987 and 1988 and interna- to argue
tional pressure (see p43), the military conceded and announced there with her, I
would be an election in 1990. Despite the 1989 arrest of a key member of
the National League for Democracy (NLD), Aung San Suu Kyi, the NLD know shed
won a remarkable 82% of the vote. The junta never handed over power. listen
WHY A BOYCOTT?
In the mid-1990s, the military regime readied the country for Visit
Myanmar Year 1996, a massive campaign they believed could bring legit-
imacy to the battered government and a growing source of income. The
government used forced labour to build up its tourism infrastructure
rebuilding tourist sites such as Mandalay Palace, re-paving roads, and
18 T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T T h e D e b a t e www.lonelyplanet.com
building airports and runways. Some say hundreds of thousands of

locals were uprooted from their homes and sent to new towns dozens
of kilometres outside city centres (evident in Yangon, Mandalay and Old
Bagan). The government, meanwhile, eased travel restrictions; from the
24-hour visa and the seven-day visa, to 14 days in 1990, and then 28 days
in 1994. The governments tourism campaign ushered in the tourism
boycott. Eventually, the campaign had to be delayed by a few months
and the government revised its goal from 500,000 tourists to 200,000,
but eventually even that mark was not reached.
THE DEBATE
Activist groups outside Myanmar some made up of exiled Burmese
fight for international pressure to be applied to force the military junta to
transfer power to the NLD. However, some supporters of the NLD stand
on opposite sides regarding how the boycott should be applied. There are
really two debates raging at present one regarding tourism and the other
concerning business dealings or aid.
Aung San Suu Kyi

For many would-be travellers the most compelling reason to support a
total boycott is that Aung San Suu Kyi says to, and most boycott support-
ers frequently quote her. Most of what shes said on the issue dates from
1995 or 1996 not surprising as, since before the 1990 election, shes spent
most of the time under arrest and unable to make statements. In 1995 Suu
Kyi asked travellers to visit us later, insisting that visiting at that time
was tantamount to condoning the regime. In 2002 she reportedly said
TO GO OR NOT TO GO?
Reasons Not to Go
Aung San Suu Kyi has asked tourists not to come.
The government used forced labour to develop tourist-related sights and services.
International tourists can be seen as a stamp of approval for the Myanmar government.
Its impossible to visit without some money going to the military junta (eg US$20 for a visa,
US$10 departure fee, 7% to 10% tax on services and purchases).
Activists claim that tourism dollars help fuel government repression directly.
The government forbids travel to many areas, particularly in areas inhabited by minority
groups, due to unrest.
Reasons to Go
The vast majority of locals want you to come.
Tourism remains one of the few industries accessible by ordinary locals that offers an income
and communication with the outside world.
Human-rights violations are less likely to occur in areas where international visitors are
present.
The government has stopped requiring that foreigners change US$200 into Burmese notes
upon arrival.
The majority (possibly over 80%) of a careful independent travellers expenses goes to the
private sector.
If tourists stop coming, the government may step up the oppression of its people.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T T h e D e b a t e 19
the situation has not changed. That year, Suu Kyi told the BBC that the
people of Burma, in general, do not depend on...foreign visitors to bring
them information; instead they obtain knowledge of the international
world via incoming radio broadcasts such as BBC, Radio Free Asia and
Democratic Voice of Burma.
One of Suu Kyis chief concerns of that time was that the country
wasnt ready for tourism because locals, so long isolated and crippled
economically, hadnt had a chance to develop self-confidence, as she
told Alan Clements in The Voice of Hope (1997). At such a time it is too
easy for young people to grab at foreign ideas and values, simply because
they think foreigners are better...and more successful.
Despite her stance, Suu Kyi has noted the positive side of travel to Myan-
mar as well. She said during an interview in Yangon in 1995, Visitors to
the country can be useful, depending on what they do, or how they go
about it. But she also expressed concern that tourists who go around in
air-conditioned taxis dont see anything thats going on in the country.
She understood that, boycott or not, tourists will come, and even sug-
gested that an alternative guide be produced. We found this sentiment
echoed to us at Lonely Planet in 2005 by members of the proboycott Open Some quotes of
Society Institutes Burma Project, and the pro-informed (ie protourism) Myanmar residents
organisation Voices for Burma. The London-based Burma Action Group presented in this chapter,
(now called Burma Campaign UK) actually published Burma: The Alter- and throughout the
native Guide in tandem with the governments campaign, but the guide book, are not attributed
was more a detailed manifesto against any tourism, without any practical in order to protect their
information for those who did go. identity.
Activist Groups
Many proboycott activists interpret any visitor whether they are either
part of a package-tour group, a backpacker staying in US$4 guesthouses,
or meditating in a monastery as a symbolic and financial endorsement
of the military junta, which built some tourist infrastructure and services
off the backs of many locals through forced labour and prison labour.
Some estimates put the figure of forced labourers as over one million,
though in 2005 Amnesty International reported that forced labour, in
general, had decreased over the last decade. Burma Campaign UK states
on its website, Nowhere else in the world have human rights abuses
and tourism been so closely linked. Also the group doubts that travel-
lers can make much of a contribution to the wellbeing of locals, saying
only a small percentage of locals ever come in contact with travellers.
BURMA OR MYANMAR?
While questions are being raised on whether to visit, the very name of the country is another
doozey. In 1989 the government changed the official name from the Union of Burma to the
Union of Myanmar. The country has in fact been called Myanma in local parlance since, at least,
the time of Marco Polo in the 13th century. The term Burma is a British-made moniker, based
on the majority ethnic group, the Bamar (or Burmans or Burmese). Essentially all prodemocracy
groups outside the country as well as the NLD still call the country Burma. The government,
at least on the surface, prefers Myanmar because its more inclusive of the many ethnic groups.
More importantly, it distances the country from the colonial period. At the same time as the
country was renamed Myanmar, many town and street names were changed as well (eg Rangoon
returned to its precolonial name of Yangon).
In this book we use Myanmar for the country (in line with the locals usage and preference),
and Burmese for the language, food and the Bamar people.
20 T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T T h e D e b a t e www.lonelyplanet.com
Other groups against tourism suggest that the governments restrictions

on travel prevent access to trouble spots places where insurgents fight
the military, where forced labour lingers, and where poverty is strongest.
Some locals worry that travellers who only see Yangons Shwedagon Paya
will leave thinking the whole country is covered in gold.
Proponents for travel point out that the majority of locals want independ-
ent international visitors and travellers hear this often during hushed
conversations in temples, taxis and teashops. Also, protravel advocates
point out that the probability of human-rights abuse shrivels in places that
foreigners frequent (one activist group suggests that tourists should expand
the international influence by focusing on off-the-beaten-track areas). A
popular question asked by some, is why antitourism advocates dont include
Tibet, Vietnam, Cuba, China (particularly) and even the USA in a boycott.
Tibet shares some similarities with Myanmar though travel in Tibet is
actually more restricted as the Chinese hope to gain legitimacy to their
occupation of that country through positive reports from tourists. Tibets
spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama, however, encourages travellers to come and
interact with the locals there. Canadian writer Karen Connelly took a pas-
sive role with Myanmar: I just want to write about what I see here. Thats
all. That will do whatever it can do. Thai monk Mettanando Bhikkhu be-
lieves first-hand accounts can be powerful catalysts for change, as he wrote
More in the Bangkok Post in 2005: Tourists to Burma...are natural witnesses to
isolation events in that country, the eyes and ears through which the world is able to
monitor the kinds of abuse that Tony Blair wants to sanction.
wont fix the Residents of other impoverished or boycotted nations provide an inter-
problems esting perspective. A local in Cambodia pleaded with one Lonely Planet
and author, Please dont boycott Burma. We know what thats like. The poor
get poorer and the rich keep driving in their fancy cars. A Romanian film-
sanctions maker says that the boycott is a no brainer, recalling the days when he
push us craved outside contacts during Ceaucescus dictatorship in the 1980s.
backwards While most Myanmar people love the Lady, many offer varied opinions
on the issue. A one-time aide to Suu Kyi, who spent three years in Insein
Prison in Yangon, wrote in the Far Eastern Economic Review in 1998:
[Suu Kyis] approach has been highly moral and uncompromising,

catching the imagination of the outside world. Unfortunately, it has
come at a real price for the rest of us...More isolation wont fix the
problems and [business, tourism, aid] sanctions push us backward...
We need to be a part of the world.
Ma Thangeni
Dr Zarni, the director of the Free Burma Coalition and a one-time pro-
boycott activist, did an about-face in 2003 on this issue. On his online
blog, he described the absurdity and meaningless of further isolating
and punishing the country. He said, We are burning down the barn
THE REGIMES LINE

For a fascinating glimpse into the world of propaganda (if not outright self-deception), check
out the governments take on Aung San Suu Kyi and the NLD. On the information sheet link
on www.myanmar.com, there are frequent dicta updated labelled as The Truth to see. In
their 70-page Political Situation of Myanmar and the Role of the Region, available in Yangon, the
government defends its motto (everybodys friend, but nobodys ally) and makes an effort to
blame the deaths following the 1988 marches (see p43) on the NLD.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T T o u r i s m & t h e E c o n o m y 21
ACTIVIST WEBSITES
Many groups have websites that outline Myanmars prodemocracy movement as well as provide
details on human-rights abuses sustained since 1988.
Amnesty International (www.amnesty.org) Regular updates on the status of 1300 political
prisoners behind bars.
Burma Campaign UK (www.burmacampaign.org.uk) One of the more outspoken proboycott
groups, which has written numerous articles.
Burma Project (www.burmaproject.org) It is proboycott, but stops short of saying travellers fuel
human-rights abuses; its website has many links to other sites.
Free Burma Coalition (www.freeburmacoalition.org) Reversed its proboycott stance in 2003; the
online blog has many updates and links to Burma-related news and opinions.
Voices for Burma (www.voicesforburma.org) Protourism, with many suggestions on how best to visit.
because we couldnt catch all the mice. In 2004, Moustache Brothers

leader Lu Zaw told us of his comedy troupe (p241), two-thirds of whom
have been imprisoned for political jokes: We are alive because of tourists.
We want tourists to come. We want a Trojan horse.
Exiled author Pascal Khoo Thwe, who narrowly escaped the clutches of
the army via Thailand following the 1988 demonstrations, told us in 2004,
I follow the policies of Aung San Suu Kyi, but if travellers feel they can
help, they should go...Its been many years; we need people to really work
now rather than keep arguing [about the boycott]. Another opinion: If the
country
From the point of view of ordinary Myanmar youth, boycott methods
dont work any more and they dont affect the dictators much directly. becomes
If the country becomes isolated, can any exiled politician promise isolated, can
that well be free? any exiled
Member of the anonymous rap group Myanmar for
Future Generations (MFG), 2005 politician
promise
TOURISM & THE ECONOMY that well be
Travellers Input
Some observers have wondered what makes a bigger impact: the esti- free?
mated US$200 spent per backpacker, for example, that feeds mostly into
the private sector on a two-week trip, or the US$65 of this amount that
goes to the government through taxes, entry fees and the cost of a visa?
Its a difficult conclusion to make. The CIA reports Myanmars GDP per
capita in 2003 was US$150 per month. The majority of locals are happy
to get half that; in 2005 the Economist suggested that rural households
in Shan State earned no more than US$400 per year.
Aside from the resource leases, building permits and bribes that are
all part of doing business in Myanmar, the government does get some
money directly from tourists. For starters, its US$20 for a tourist visa,
US$10 for departure tax, plus the 7% tax collected by restaurants, and
10% tax from guesthouses and hotels. Entry fees to some sights and the
use of some services (see the list on p23) add more to the pot. One of
the least ambiguous links between tourism funding the government,
as described by proboycott author Jeff Greenwald, was the requirement
that foreigners exchange US$200 into local currency upon arrival in the
country. Fortunately, the government stopped this practice in 2003. Of
course, there are some bills to pay too. But sometimes the government
22 T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T T o u r i s m & t h e E c o n o m y www.lonelyplanet.com
TOURISM NUMBERS
In 1994, 62,000 tourists visited Myanmar (including family visits and business travellers).
In 2004, 202,000 tourists visited Myanmar.
About 61% of Myanmars tourists come from Asian countries (the top four being nationals of
Thailand, Taiwan, Japan and China).
Approximately 34% of Myanmars tourists travel independently, while 27% come on package
tours.
In 2003, US$116 million was brought into the country from tourism (US$17 million more
than in 2002).
About US$25 million of 2003s tourism revenue came from Western independent and
package tourists.
In general about 12% of the money collected by the private sector from tourism funds the
regime, according to the Minister for Hotels & Tourism (source: Altsean, 2003) this equates to
potentially US$3 million in 2003 (ie 12% of US$25 million) coming from Western independent
and package tourists.
doesnt always get a windfall; insiders have suggested that ticket fares for
Myanma Airways are unlikely to cover the government airlines costs.
Looking at other government sources of revenue as a comparison, tour-
Read www.icftu
ism is something of a general store among skyscrapers. Its not known
.org/displaydocument
exactly what the government receives or spends in total on foreign
.asp?Index=991221173
investment, tourism, oil and illicit trade (in gems, timber, heroin) across
&Language=EN for an
its borders. Myanmar earned US$655 million in 2003 in gas exports alone
overview on how the
(according to Doing Business in Burma), and tourism drew US$116 mil-
governments tentacles
lion in 2003 (including the contributions of nearly two in five visitors
poke into most facets of
who were business travellers or there to visit families). Comparatively,
the local economy.
Myanmar is last among Southeast Asian countries in terms of the number
of tourists, with roughly half of Laos draw and 1.4% of Thailands.
Foreign Businesses
Following Aung San Suu Kyis third arrest in 2003, the USA and EU
enforced full sanctions against Myanmar, prohibiting trade. But unlike
apartheid-era South Africa, which Tony Blair has likened Myanmar to
Myanmars neighbours didnt follow suit, thus providing leaky borders to
the flow of cash and goods. If anyone or anything sustains the government,
its China. Dr Mohan Malik of the Asia-Pacific Center for Security Studies
estimates that China controls 60% of the Myanmar economy; the annual
trade exchange is in excess of US$1 billion. For example, China pumped
in US$200 million to improve Myanmars infrastructure, not for tourism
but with eyes on Myanmars offshore oil reserves.
Yet sly General Than Shwe played the flirt by making the first Myanmar
head-of-state visit to India in 25 years, the week after the ousting of pro-
China prime minister Khin Nyunt in 2004. A few months later, Myanmar
and Bangladesh signed an agreement to build a highway, ultimately to link
Yangon with India (with whom Myanmar has already traded half a billion
dollars). Thailand, Singapore and Japan are also dollar-sign chums.
Some critics point out that while sanctions against North Korea, Cuba,
Haiti and Iraq have hurt these countries economies in no instance have
sanctions (on their own) changed a regime. Jai Singh summed it up in an
article on Slate (www.slate.com) in 2005, Were stuck with Washington
and Brussels trying one approach and much of Asia trying the other.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E B OYC OT T S P L I T G o v e r n m e n t Fe e s 23
GOVERNMENT FEES
Entry Fees
Many places in Myanmar are free to enter and explore, but some places including whole towns
require the payment of fees, as dictated by the Ministry of Hotels & Tourism in Yangon or local
authorities. But, although fees go directly to the government, the situation is often not black
and white; in some places, such as Bagan or Mrauk U, the fees are split with the apparently
earnest Department of Archaeology, the only present means of preserving ancient temples and
artwork. Here are the main fees:
Alaungpaya Palace, Shwebo (K50)
Amarapura See Mandalay Archaeological Zone
Bagan Archaeological Zone (US$10)
Bago sites (US$10)
Chin State Must take MTT (government) tour; two-day tour US$300 per person
Golden Rock, Kyaiktiyo (US$6)
Hpo Win Daung Caves, near Monywa (US$2)
Inle Lake Zone (US$3)
Inwa See Mandalay Archaeological Zone
Kachin State Cultural Museum, Myitkyina (US$2)
Khamti Must take MTT tour; US$670/920 from Mandalay/Yangon
Mandalay Archaeological Zone (US$10) Includes entry to Inwa and, technically, Amarapura; see p229
Mingun (US$3) Includes Sagaing Hill
Mogok Must take MTT tour; US300
Mon Cultural Museum, Mawlamyine (US$2)
Mrauk U (US$10)
Putao Must pay government fee
Rakhaing State Cultural Museum, Sittwe (US$2)
Sagaing Hill (US$3) Includes Mingun
Shwedagon Paya, Yangon (US$5)
Taungoo elephant camp Involves some government fees
Thanboddhay Paya, near Monywa (US$3)
Thayekhittaya ruins, near Pyay (US$4)
Yangon museums (US$2 to US$5)
Youqson Kyaung, Salay (US$3)
Services
Apart from the 7% tax on restaurants and 10% on accommodation, the government benefits
from each of the following services:
Beer Myanmar Beer is a joint-venture operation
City buses From K5 a ride
Golf Many courses are government controlled
Inland Water Transport (IWT) Government ferries
Internet As with electricity, post and telephone, the dial-up service is government-controlled; the broadband
Bagan Cybertech was formerly run by Khin Nyunts son
Liquor licenses Require steeper payments than alcohol-free restaurants have to pay
Myanma Airways Dodgy domestic airline
Myanma Railways
Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT) Government-run tourist information service
Newspapers Myanmar Times (K500) and New Light of Myanmar
Post & Telephone All calls and faxes run by Ministry of Post & Telecommunications; international calls of US$5
or US$6 per minute
24 I F Y O U G O Av o i d G o v e r n m e n t H o t e l s www.lonelyplanet.com
IF YOU GO
Dont come in with your camera and take only pictures. We dont
need that kind of tourist. Talk to those who want to talk. Let them
know of the conditions of your life.
Pro-NLD Yangon resident, 2004
Lonely Planet suggests that visitors to Myanmar should try to maximise

Dont come the positive effects of a visit among the general populace, while mini-
in with your mising any financial support of the government. Its pretty clear that, in
general, the less you spend, the less goes to the government. If youre
camera and used to five-star comfort, consider settling for a little less when youre
take only here. We encourage everyone who goes to Myanmar to be an informed
pictures tourist read at least a couple books about recent events and look
deeper into the argument. We do not encourage travellers to use a trip
as an outright vehicle for political change, though. Those who have by
handing out leaflets have been arrested; see p337 for more. We also ask
that visitors treat locals with respect and p49 lists some basic dos and
donts to follow in Myanmar. The following measures outline how best
to travel in the country.
AVOID GOVERNMENT HOTELS

As much as possible, government-run hotels and higher-priced joint-
venture hotels are flagged throughout this book. See p332 for more on
how hotels work in Myanmar. Here are ways to further help you identify
government-run hotels:
Government hotels are often named after the city or sight (eg Sittway
Hotel, Mrauk U Hotel, Kyaiktiyo Hotel).
Private hotels are less likely to have a Myanmar flag flying in front.
Staff at government hotels are pretty upfront about ownership if you
ask.
Cheaper guesthouses and most midrange hotels are less likely to have
government ties than more plush locally run hotels or joint-venture
hotels.
SPREAD YOUR MONEY

Critics of independent travel argue that travellers spending usually con-
gregates at select places, even if those spots are privately run. Familiarity
can be reassuring such as your trishaw driver buddy, or the plate of
noodles that didnt get you sick but try to mix it up a bit.
Dont buy all of your needs (bed, taxi, guide, rice) from one source.
Be conscious that behind-the-scenes commissions are being paid on
most things you pay for when in the company of a driver or guide;
it doesnt always affect your price, but if all travellers follow the same
lead, the benefits only go to a select few; see p321 for an example.
Minimise expenses that go to foreign-operated businesses.
Mix up locations where you catch taxis and trishaws and try to take
ones from guys not lingering outside tourist areas.
Try to eat at different family restaurants; if youre staying at a hotel,
eat out often; eg in Ngapali Beach, local restaurants are just across the
road from the beach and hotels.
Either buy handicrafts directly from the artisans, or, if not, dont get
all your souvenirs from one private shop.
www.lonelyplanet.com I F Y O U G O D o n t C o m p r o m i s e L o c a l s 25
WHERE THE MONEY GOES

Travel costs (and other economic transactions) in Myanmar come in many forms. This table gives
estimated average breakdowns of how much the government actually gets from each type of
traveller. Government taxes such as a visa, fees and a taxes on all purchases have been factored
into these figures.
Amount Type of economic input

of money
US$0 The amount the government receives from potential tourists staying at home and reading
about Myanmar
US$65 The part of a shoestringers US$250 to US$275 budget over a two-week trip (sticking with family
guesthouses and public buses, and skipping fees at Shwedagon Paya, Bagan and Inle Lake)
US$85 The part of a shoestringers US$275 to US$300 budget, as above, but paying government fees at
Shwedagon Paya, Bagan and Inle Lake
US$150-275 The amount of a travellers budget of US$1100 to US$2000 for a two-week trip that includes
using a hired private car and staying at midrange hotels
US$300-500 The amount for a one-week trip total budget US$2500 and up staying at higher-priced
hotels, taking several guided day trips, eating at hotels and taking three domestic flights
US$450 The part going to the government from a MTT-guided, three-day trip to restricted Chin State
from Bagan
US$500 & up The amount from a tourist on a seven- to 12-day luxury cruise on the Ayeyarwady at a cost of
US$3000 to US$4000
US$25 million The total amount spent that reached both the government and private sources, by Western
international package-tour and independent tourists in 2003
US$655 million The amount the government raked in from natural gas exports in 2003 (source: International
Confederation of Free Trade Unions, 2005)
DONT COMPROMISE LOCALS

In a country that imprisons its people for disagreeing with the gov-
ernments line, or sends them to forced labour camps, travellers need
to ensure that they dont behave in a way that will lead to locals being
compromised in the eyes of the junta.
Dont raise political questions and issues in inappropriate situations;
let a local direct the conversation and dont come out with something
like did you protest against the government? anywhere where there
are other people even if you are riding on a trishaw. One exiled
person suggested, If you have questions for the NLD, dont ask in the
country [the locals] could get imprisoned; try to ask NLD outside
Burma.
Asking a taxi driver to take you by Aung San Suu Kyis house or a NLD
office could implicate him.
Exercise care in handing over anything to a local that could carry
political overtones (such as the New Yorker or the Economist or
Myanmar-related books).
26 I F Y O U G O D I Y v s Pa c k a g e T o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com
DIY VS PACKAGE TOURS

If you want to go, go. I just try to discourage people from taking
package tours. Nothing goes to the people. I encourage people to
go individually.
Pascal Khoo Thwe, author of Land of the Green Ghosts, 2004
Presently no tourist gets more criticism from proboycott and protourism

I encourage activists than one who goes to Myanmar on a package trip. Were not
going to bad-mouth them, but independent travellers are usually able
people to go to ensure that less money makes it into the governments pockets. Even
individually if youre looking for ease and comfort having a ride waiting for you
at a bus station or airport, and some confidence in your days agenda
you can do it without a package tour. Youll not only save money, but
spread your budget across more people. Many travellers in Myanmar
follow roughly the following steps to set up some sort of itinerary.
Pad the beginning of your trip with a couple of research days in
Yangon.
Stay at a family-owned guesthouse in Yangon, where you can get some
good info but dont depend on them alone for all your needs.
Visit a few Yangon-based private travel agents (p89) and ask each for
a list of good budget or private midrange hotels in Yangon they can
recommend, as well as transport options.
Tell travel agents clearly what you want, including avoiding any ser-
vices run by the government, and try not to pay all fees up front, but
ask to pay directly to hotels and other services.
Talk with fellow travellers whove used particular travel agents.
Visit the government-run MTT office for information on listings and
costs so you can compare suggested hotels and transport fares with
other travel agents, and listings in this guide.
Consider sleeping with a few less amenities and a bit less style than
you would go for in, say, Thailand, because the government is more
likely to have its tentacles in upmarket hotels.
Instead of flying, consider hiring a private driver for all or a portion
of your trip; see p365 on tips on finding the right car.
If you simply have to take a package tour of Myanmar, be sure to ask

any prospective tour company what it does to minimise the amount of
money going into the hands of the government.
BACK AT HOME
Your trip to Myanmar doesnt end once youre back home. Alert us and
fellow travellers via the Thorn Tree discussion board (www.lonelyplanet
.com) if youve stumbled onto a new or changed government-operated
service or have a suggestion on how to minimise money going to the
government. Write to your local Myanmar embassy to express your views
about the human-rights situation there; see p339 for a list of embassies.
Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think its fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please dont upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - Do the right thing with our content.
27
Getting Started
Read the discussion on p17 regarding whether you should boycott My-
anmar or not.
WHEN TO GO
The best time to visit Myanmar is between November and February. Dur-
ing these months it rains least (if at all in places) and it is not so hot.
March to May brings intense heat (TS Eliot described April as the
cruellest month). At this time, Yangons daily temperatures often reach See Climate Charts (p335)
40C, while areas around Bagan and Mandalay go a few digits higher. The for more information.
cool hill towns of Shan State offer relief from the heat, though.
The southwest monsoon starts between mid-May and mid-June,
bringing frequent rains that dunk the country through till October,
peaking from July to September. The dry zone (roughly the area between
Mandalay and Pyay) gets less rain than the rest of the country, though
roads anywhere (and particularly in the delta region south and east of
Yangon) can become impassable. Rakhaing State bears the full force of
the rains often exceeding 500cm of rain annually.
Check the current weather link on the Myanmar section of www.asia
travelinfo.com/myanmar/currentweather.asp for 22 temperatures across
the country.
COSTS & MONEY

Even though the government keeps a foreigner price system very much
in effect, causing transport, accommodation and entrance fees for for-
eigners to swallow the local price several times over, Myanmar is still
very cheap to visit.
For those looking for relative comfort, midrange hotels start around
US$20 in most places, while upmarket hotels may charge over US$100
in Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake and Ngapali Beach. Shoestringers
can often find a clean room for US$4 or US$5 a bit more in Yangon or
off-the-beaten-track places. Unless you eat meals at top-end hotels, or
classier restaurants in some touristy areas, meals are much the same fare
rice or noodles, with meat or vegetables and cost about US$1.
If you dont have to have a guide, consider arranging your own trips.
A shared taxi (no guide) may cost as little as US$5 for a return trip to a
site. By comparison, in Bagan for example, one hotel offers a day tour to
Mt Popa for US$100 per person.
DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT

The must-haves include US dollars for your whole trip, a passport that will expire more than
six months after leaving the country, and a visa. Useful items include sunscreen lotion, insect
repellent, a good torch (only cheapies are available here), tampons (unlikely to be found outside
Yangon), disposable nappies (diapers), and a good waterproof poncho if youre coming in the
rainy season.
Flip-flops or sandals are necessary for all the shoe-shedding youll be doing at Buddhist sites;
inexpensive ones are available. The AA batteries in Myanmar may be cheap, but they only keep
a CD player running for an hour. Youll need a jumper (sweater) in the chillier hill towns and a
blanket if you are going to do overnight trips (including by boat) in the area.
See p49 for ideas on bringing gifts for the locals.
28 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T o p Te n s www.lonelyplanet.com
TOP TENS
Festivals & Events

Independence Day, 4 January (p340)
Kachin State Day (Myitkyina), 10 January (p218)
Shwedagon Festival (Yangon), February/March (p340)
Buddhas Birthday, full moon, April/May (p340)
Water Festival (Thingyan) & Burmese New Year, mid-April (p341)
Dawei Thingyan, April (p164) Few foreigners make it here to see local men don 4m bamboo
effigies and dance the streets to a drum beat.
Nat Festival (Mt Popa), Nayon full moon, May/June (p278)
Start of Buddhist Rains Retreat, full moon June/July (p341)
Nat Festival, near Amarapura, after Wagaung full moon, August (p250)
Tazaungmon, full moon October/November (p341) Taunggyis balloon festival (p195) is a

particular highlight.
Must Reads
Burmese Days by George Orwell
The Trouser People: A Story of Burma in the Shadow of the Empire by Andrew Marshall
Living Silence by Christina Fink
The Glass Palace by Amitav Ghosh
From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey by Pascal Khoo Thwe
Letters from Burma or The Voice of Hope by Aung San Suu Kyi
Culture Shock! Burma by Saw Myat Yin
The Piano Tuner by Daniel Mason
The Lady Aung San Suu Kyi: Noble Laureate & Burmas Prisoner by Barbara Victor
The History of Burma by GE Harvey
Souvenirs
Longyis (sarong-style lower garment) Found wherever a breeze might blow.
Patheins paper parasols (p134)
Myanmars best lacquerware at Myinkaba (p275)
Traditional-style lacquerware in Kyaukka (p260)
Delta-born glazed pots from Twante (p129), near Yangon
Moustache Brothers T-shirt from Mandalay (p241)
Cheap DVDs in Yangon (p122)
Marionettes from Yangons Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121) or in Mandalay (p241)
Jade from Mandalays local market (p242)
Water buffalo in Kengtung (p198)

www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 29
If youre travelling around by public transport and are OK with rice-

based meals, you can get by on as little as US$15 or US$20 a day; those
considering taking a couple of taxis and frequenting midrange local res-
taurants may spend US$35 to US$50. Staying at plush hotels and eating HOW MUCH?
at classy restaurants will cost US$100 and more. Ride on a Yangon
city bus K5
TRAVEL LITERATURE Burmese all-you-can-eat
Few countries warrant more pretrip reading than Myanmar. buffet lunch K1000-1500
In Andrew Marshalls excellent The Trouser People: A Story of Burma
Overnight bus from
in the Shadow of the Empire (2002), the British author retraces the steps
Yangon to Mandalay
of a gutsy Scot named Sir George Scott who traversed unmapped corners
K6000
of British Burma in the late 1800s. Marshall compares the current day
with Scotts finds much documented in Scotts mammoth 1882 book Hired car with driver per
The Burman and finds that traditions have remained unchanged in the day US$100
hills where people are small and ghosts are big. Visa extension in Yangon
From the Land of Green Ghosts: A Burmese Odyssey (2002), by Pascal US$38
Khoo Thwe, is a self-told tale of a reluctant rebel of the government who
escaped unlike many of his friends out of Myanmar. Thwe grew up in a
hill tribe in Shan State. His book hops between following telltale traditions
and his role in a changing Myanmar. There are many cultural traditions
presented including a recipe for smoked pigeons with marijuana sauce.
The definitive reading on Myanmar continues to be George Orwells
sweat-stained Burmese Days (1934), which takes place amid the last gasp
of the fading British colonial period in northern Burma. Well-timed
earthquakes and riots, and overly poetic birthmarks, can be forgiven as
the lead characters appreciation for the Burmese way of life seeps into
the story of a gang of British brutes some of whom are so stereotyped
its hard to distinguish them from one another.
Amitav Ghoshs excellent The Glass Palace (2001) faithfully recounts
historical details (from King Thibaws fall in 1885 to the modern era) as
experienced by a curious web of fictionalised families (Burmese, Indian,
Chinese and American).
Daniel Masons The Piano Tuner (2002) follows a London tuner on a
strange trip to tune a piano deep in the Shan Hills. Its similar to Heart
of Darkness except that Kurtz has a piano (not necessarily a mind) out
of whack. The story is good though, and descriptions of 19th-century sea
voyages and Myanmar customs are spot on.
INTERNET RESOURCES
Here are some of useful sites to refer to when planning your trip:
Ayezay (www.ayezay.com) Bursts with links and info on Myanmar, including travel, human rights
and geography.
Irrawaddy (www.irrawaddy.org) Website of a Bangkok-based publication, it focuses on political
issues, but covers many cultural news topics. It has a huge archive.
Lonely Planets Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com) Self-promotion aside, LPs discussion
board is the best resource to mix and mingle with fellow travellers.
Mizzima (www.mizzima.com) A nonprofit news service organised in 1998 by Burmese journalists
in exile.
Myanmar Home Page (www.myanmar.com) Provides a funny government dictum, and two
local English-language papers, including the useful Myanmar Times (for entertainment listings,
flight schedules).
Myanmar Travel Information (www.myanmartravelinformation.com) Includes train and
airline schedules (though these date quickly).
Online Burma/Myanmar Library (www.burmalibrary.org) Comprehensive database of books on
Myanmar.
30
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
THE BIG-FOUR FRENZY Seven to Nine Days/Yangon to Inle Lake
Starting in Yangon (p000), stretch your plane legs up the steps to the Shwed- Yango
agon Paya (p000) at night, when its golden zedi (stupa) glows under the
Yango /Si hts wed P ya
floodlights. Next day, wander around downtown (p000) ending at Bogyoke Yango/WlkiTurDwtnYago
Aung San Market (p000), which has the countrys best selection of handi- Yango/ShpiMrketsAuan
crafts and souvenirs. Hire a driver, fly, or take a train or an overnight

bus to Mandalay (p000), where you can climb Mandalay Hill (p000), see the Mandly Sights/MandlyH
famed Mahamuni Paya (p000) and witness the Moustache Brothers (p000) Sights/ Ma mun P y MoustacheBrfmSlpiktoare
one day, and on the next make a rushed day trip to zedi-studded Sagaing
Hill (p000), then the leaning tower of Inwa (p000), and monk- and fisher-
Around M a l y/ cie t C s S g n h / a i H l AroundMaly/cietCsInw(av)Nmyi/
filled U Beins Bridge (p000) in Amarapura at sunset. The boat trip down the AroundMaly/cietCsAmrpuaSgh/UBeind
Ayeyarwady River to Bagan (p000) takes a day but is a relaxing way to take Bag n & Ce tr l My m / a N ung U Get i Th r & Away/Bo
in life along one of Asias mightiest rivers. In Bagan, take a horse-cart or

cycle around 42 sq km of 800-year-old temples. Next day, cool off in the
Shan Hills to the east at Inle Lake (p000) reached by bus, taxi or plane Nor theas n M y m /I l L k
where dug-out canoes can take you to floating markets under the flight
path of egrets; after a day, consider a day trip to Pindaya Caves (p000) to NortheasnMym/TzioIleVaKwPndy
see their 8000 Buddha images. Fly or take a bus back to Yangon.
If time is short, BANGLADESH

you can still take in INDIA
Yangon, Mandalay CHINA
and a few nearby

ancient cities,
Bagans 3000 tem- Sagaing
Mandalay
Inwa Amarapura
ples, and do a boat
Bagan Pindaya Caves
trip on Inle Lake.
Inle LAOS
Lake
YANGON
THAILAND
Andaman
Islands
(INDIA)
The Big-Four Fenzy

www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S C l a s s i c R o u t e s 31
THE BIG-FOUR EXPANSION Four Weeks/Yangon to Mrauk U

Take a few days in Yangon (p000), and see Shwedagon Paya (p000), Aung Sans Yango Yango/SihtswedPya
old home (p000), and wander around downtown (p000). Take a bus or taxi Yango/SihtsBykeAuanMm Yango/WlkiTurDwtnYago
to Bago (p000) to see a Buddha extravaganza by day, then continue on to AroundYag/Nthf Bo
Kyaiktiyo (p000) for the night; wake up by doing a truck/trek up to the SoutheasrnMym/StKaiko
balance-act that is the Golden Rock.From Kyaiktiyo, get to Kalaw (p000 Northeasn
), for some treks in the Shan Hills, spend a day at Pindaya Caves (p000) to
Myanmr/ThzitoIleVKwa NortheasnMym/TzioIleVaKwPndy
see their 8000 Buddha images and explore Inle Lake (p000) for a few days. NortheasnMym/IlLk
In October/November, you can see the balloon festival in Taunggyi (p000 Northeasn
), where you can catch a ride to Mandalay (p000), where youcan visit four
Myanmr/IleLkAoudaTngyi Mandly
ancient cities: Mingun (p000), Amarapura (p000), Inwa (p000) and Sagaing AroundMaly/cietCsngu AroundMaly/cietCsAmrapu AroundMaly/cietCsInw
(p000). From Mandalay, take a boat to Bagan (p000), allowing three days
AroundMaly/cietCsSgn Bagn&CetrlMym/a
to temple-hop and honour the nat (spirit) at Mt Popa (p000). Bus or taxi to Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagntPp
Pyay (p000) to see the ruins of the ancient Pyu city by ox cart.
Bagn&CetrlMym/aoP
Two options for the rest of your stay: add on three days from Kyaik-
tiyo, by bussing to Mawlamyine (p000) near the WWII Death Railway, SoutheasrnMym/Stawline
then take Myanmars loveliest boat ride to Hpa-an (p000) for a mountain SoutheasrnMym/KiSteHpa-n
climb and lunch, with monkeys. Then, when in Mandalay, add on a

three-day trip to refreshingly cooler Pyin U Lwin (p000), a flower-scented NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashyni
hill station with waterfalls, and do a DIY trek in Hsipaw (p000). Or scrap NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashHp
those two side trips, and take a six-day trip from Pyay firstly to Mrauk U
(p000), the Rakhaings hillocky version of Bagan and then snorkel and
WestrnMyam/NohRkingMrauU
eat seafood at Ngapali Beach (p000). From here, take a flight or a bus ride WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBec
to Yangon.
Build more memo-

BANGLADESH
INDIA ries by doing the
CHINA Big Four; then
pick one seven-day
Hsipaw or two three-
Mingun
Sagaing Pyin U Lwin day side trips
Inwa Mandalay
Amarapura (treks, boat rides,
Mt Pindaya Caves
Bagan Popa
Taunggyi
beaches, lesser-
Mrauk U
Kalaw LAOS
seen towns) to fill
Inle
Lake your visas 28 days.
Pyay
Ngapali
Beach
Kyaiktiyo
Bago
YANGON Hpa-an
Mawlamyine
THAILAND
Andaman
Islands
(INDIA)
The Big-Four Expansion

32 I T I N E R A R I E S R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l l e d www.lonelyplanet.com
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

AYEYARWADY HO! Three or Four Weeks/Myitkyina to Chaungtha
Fly to Myitkyina (p000), where you can wait for the next ferry by taking in
Nor theas n My m / i k to K a h My n
Kachin culture; in January animal sacrifices are made to satisfy the nat.
Get a deck ticket for the half-day trip to Bhamo (p000), a leafy town with Nor theas n My m / i k to K a h B
a home-made helicopter inspired by James Bond. Hire a longboat for a six-

hour ride to Katha (p000), where George Orwell based his Burmese Days. NortheasnMym/iktoKah
Although most prefer to stay aboard for the 24 hours south to Mandalay,
for a fun four-day side trip, disembark at Kyaukmyaung, and pack into a
pick-up for quiet Shwebo (p000), and then pleasant Monywa (p000), near AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrchwbo AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcMonywa
a Buddha-shaped mountain (p000) and the carnivalesque Thanboddhay Paya AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcAoundMywa/HpWiDgCves
(p000), brimming with over 500,000 Buddhas.

AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcAoundMywa/ThbP&Around
Take a bus to Mandalay (p000), and spend three or four days visiting Mandly
the ancient cities (p000) and cycling around pagodas and chapati stands; Around Ma l y/ cie t C s
then get back on the Ayeyarwady to Bagan (p000), where you can cycle Bagn&CetrlMym/a
around 3000 temples. A couple of days south from Bagan by boat is

ho-hum Magwe, near a gurgling mound of butane-gas sludge guarded
by snakes at Minbu (p000); another night south is Pyay (p000), to see the B a g n & C e t r l M y m / a o P gw e Si hts/ lud Bag n & Ce tr l My m / a o P
ruins of the ancient city of the Pyu and the nearby spectacled Buddha,
the Shwemyetman Paya (p000). Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPArundy/Shweag
Many travellers brave the bus ride from Pyay to Ngapali Beach (p000) WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBech
for some relaxing beach life. Otherwise, get a bus back to Yangon (p000), Yango
and another one southeast to Chaungtha Beach (p000), a more accessible AroundYag/DeltRiChunaBc
kick-back spot on the Bay of Bengal.

This may be
Myanmars ultimate INDIA
journey from Myitkyina
Myanmars top to BANGLADESH

bottom, mostly Katha Bhamo
CHINA
following the
Ayeyarwady, Kyaukmyaung
hitting the off- Shwebo

Monywa
the-beaten track Mandalay
and not missing
Mandalay or Bagan, Bagan
with opportunities LAOS

Minbu
to travel aboard
ferries with locals
who rarely see a Pyay
foreign face. Ngapali

Beach
Chaungtha
Beach YANGON
THAILAND
Ayeyarwady Ho!
The Active Life
www.lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S Ta i l o re d T r i p s 33
TAILORED TRIPS
THE ACTIVE LIFE
Many activities take place under the hot Myanmar sun. More travellers
are planning their own loops on treks in Shan State. Of the best, and
certainly most popular, are the treks from Kalaw to Inle Lake (p000), while TrekingAoudKalw
treks around Hsipaw (p000) take in Shan villages. Getting to some religious TopFiverkngAasINtheMynmr
sites are hikes in themselves, famously up Mandalay Hill (p000), riverside Sights/MandlyH
Sagaing Hill (p000), and past monkeys up Mt Popa (p000), the spiritual AroundMaly/cietCsSgnh/aiHl Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagntPp
centre of the 37 nat.

Its rewarding to explore the back lanes of
Myanmar towns on a bike.Long-distance cy-
clists can take the popular trip from Mandalay Maykha
River
to Bagan (p000) via Myingyan or take to the Ayeyarwady Directoy/AvsClng
hills along the road from Pyin U Lwin (p000), to River

Pyin U Lwin Lashio Directoy/AvsClng
Lashio (p000) via Hsipaw. Sagaing Hsipaw

NortheasnMym/PiULwtoash
Mandalay
You can take kickboxing classes at the YMCA Bagan
Mt Popa
Kalaw
Inle Lake
in Yangon (p000), or go for a run (p000). Ngapali
Yango/CurseThi&MtalA Yango/ActivesRu
Both Ngapali Beach (p000) and Chaungtha Beach Beach WestrnMyam/SouhRkingNaplBec
YANGON
(p000) offer snorkelling trips. The best diving,
AroundYag/DeltRiChunaBc
Chaungtha
Beach
by far, is off the islands near Kawthoung (p000 SoutheasrnMym/Ti(teasr)
), currently reached with diving operators from

Divson/Kawthug
Phuket (see p000).Weeklong kayaking trips can Directoy/Avsng&Srkeli
also be arranged in Kawthoung.

Kawthoung
In the far north, at the foothills of the Hima-
laya, you can go white-water rafting serious
rapids on the Maykha River (p000). Directoy/AvsRafng
MYANMARVELS & THE OUTRIGHT ODD

Some aspects of Myanmar are a little unusual and certainly make for
some memorable experiences. In Myingyan (p000) prized Buddha relics Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagniy
are housed in a remarkably unchanged British-colonial bank safe, while

the remains of a famous monk have been in open view since 1951.
Snake temples are another thing. Three pythons in Paleik (p000) are AroundMaly/cietCsPk
lovingly fed at 11am daily, and pose with frightened kids for photos. An-
other python in Bago (p000) is supposedly the reincarnation of the former AroundYag/NthfBo(pegu)/OrAtacinsh o/SakeMnstry
head of a monastery. At Minbu (p000) you can dip your toe in a volcano Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPgweSihts/lud
made of bubbling butane gas; and, hey, theres a couple of snakes at the
pagoda.
You can pick up a water buffalo for mum
at the market in Kengtung (p000); a cheapie NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasntg(kyio)/Shs&ActveCw
costs US$200. Near the Chinese border, Mong

La (p000) is a casino town with transvestites Kalaymyo
NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasMnL
and Chinese yuan for local currency. Near Paleik

Myingyan
Mong La
Kengtung
India, Kalaymyo (p000) is a half-Chin, half- Minbu
AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcKalymo
Bamar town you can fly to, but dont wander Shwedaung
out of town. Bago Kyaiktiyo
The unique spectacled Buddha of Shwemyet- YANGON
man Paya (p000) sits in a temple near Pyay. Any Bagn&CetrlMym/aoPArundyShweag
nat festival (p000) may evolve into people fall- TheCultr/RigonBdsmIMyar/The37NtFsival
ing into trances and being possessed by spirits,

sometimes led by men dressed as nat wives.
Feast on wriggling larva at markets (p000). Strenacks:WDYou
Myanmarvels & the Outright Odd

34
Snapshot
When youve been isolated from the international community for as long
as Myanmar has, even a major government shake-up, as happened in
October 2004, makes little more than a blip on the international media
radar if that. This particular shake-up came when Myanmars number
FAST FACTS three in command, Prime Minister Khin Nyunt, was arrested and per-
Population: 52 million mitted to retire for health reasons. Hard-line leader General Than Shwe
Population growth rate: accused Nyunt of corruption, but most commentators believe Nyunts
0.47% removal had more to do with his overly pro-China business interests
and concerns over his military intelligence background. In the days
Area: 676,577 sq km
that followed, hundreds of intelligence officers, which Than Shwe also
GDP: US$73.7 billion looked upon with suspicion, were arrested and roadside checkpoints
(60th in world) stood empty across the country. A couple of overly optimistic people
GDP per capita: US$1733 believed Nyunt with his declared road map to democracy via a multi-
(172nd in world) party system was something of a budding Gorbachev; others recall his
brutal response to the 1988 nonviolent demonstrations. Most locals
Number of refugees
many of whom learned of Nyunts removal through CNN or BBC are
or displaced persons:
wary of Than Shwes promise to continue with the roadmap. Comedian
600,000 to one million
Lu Maw of the Mandalay-based Moustache Brothers called the change
Internet users: same wine, new bottle.
28,000 (2003) After Nyunts ousting came reports of thousands of prisoners being
Estimated number released, including many political prisoners. Still, one notable absentee
of people with AIDS: on that list was Nobel Peace Prizewinner Aung San Suu Kyi, who re-
330,000 mains under house arrest (her third arrest since 1989). Locking her up
Governments self-
has provoked international condemnation of the regime. In July 2003, US
proclaimed slogan:
President George W Bush enacted a full embargo of Myanmar, including
Everybodys friend but
a ban on all financial transactions with the country. This sent credit-card
nobodys ally
companies and foreign-run banks in Myanmar packing.
Meanwhile, the EU introduced stronger sanctions including threat-
Number of Bangkok ening not to approve Myanmar dignitaries visas; officials at the 2004
noodle carts named after Athens Olympics refused entry to representatives of the Ministry of Sport
Aung San Suu Kyi: 100 from Myanmar; and in February 2005, Tony Blair approved a tourism
boycott of the country. Even slow-to-criticise Association of Southeast
Asian Nations (Asean) officials publicly condemned Myanmar for keep-
ing Suu Kyi under arrest, though its unlikely much will come of talks
on the matter at the 2006 Asean summit, controversially scheduled to
take place in Myanmar. Despite sanctions with the West, Myanmars
trade with Singapore, China, Thailand and India remains unaffected,
while Japan has flip-flopped back to environmental aid packages (and
associated investment) with the ruling junta. In the meantime, General
Than Shwe plays off Chinas and Indias battling interests in the country
(particularly regarding the countrys offshore oil reserves believed to
be Asias biggest) to the regimes advantage.
Reliable reports of the devastating December 2004 tsunami are few
and far between. However, it appears that the country largely escaped
the wrath of the disaster, though southeastern Myanmar saw 20 deaths
when a bridge was washed out in Kawthoung.
16
The Authors
ROBERT REID Coordinating Author
Moulded by Oklahoma (USA) public schools, Robert moved to a crappy base-
ment apartment in New York with his still-warm journalism degree. After that
he lived in San Francisco, London and Ho Chi Minh City, where he worked
at Vietnam News and travelled a lot around Southeast Asia. After Asia, Robert
worked at Lonely Planet as a commissioning editor then a publishing man-
ager. He now writes full-time from a Brooklyn apartment with a view of the
galaxy-famous Verrazano Bridge. Robert wrote the introductory chapters,
Mandalay, Around Mandalay, Bagan & Central Myanmar, Temples of Bagan,
Western Myanmar, Pyin U Lwin section, Directory, and Transport.
The Coordinating Authors Favourite Trip

I was a little worried about the bus trip between Ngapali Beach
(p314) and Pyay (p283) a bouncing, fish-filled, sure-fire vomit
ride. My bus mate a local in jeans and ballcap (little guy, maybe
37) lets go a raspy laugh at anything uttered. I paid US$15 to
stay there. Ho ho ho! Another passport check? Ho ho ho! A woman
gets off in Taunggok snarling, I dont want my daughter to throw Taunggok Pyay
Ngapali
up all night. Ho ho ho. At a 3am tea stop, Rasp buys me tea and Beach
cake and teases a heavy-set woman; She looks like shes 50. (Much
laughter. Her too.) Im asked how old she looks. I wouldve swore
27. (More laughter.) Turns out shes his wife. I wake him in Pyay at
5.30am and hand him an I NYC T-shirt. Ho ho ho. Somehow we
made the journey without even unfolding the vomit bag.
MICHAEL GROSBERG Yangon, Around Yangon,

Southeast Myanmar & Northeast Myanmar
Michael was raised in the Washington DC area, studied philosophy in Mich-
igan and Israel and then worked in business in the Northern Marianas. A long
overland trip through Asia followed, finally ending in exhaustion, carrying his
clothes in a laundry bag in Amman, Jordan, with his sanity still intact. After
stints at journalism and NGO work in South Africa, Michael pursued graduate
work in comparative literature in New York City and has since taught at various
universities. Despite the long economy-class flights and his inherited distaste
for air travel, he has continued to make repeated trips to Southeast Asia.
LONELY PLANET AUTHORS

Why is our travel information the best in the world? Its simple: our authors are independent,
dedicated travellers. They dont research using just the Internet or phone, and they dont take
freebies in exchange for positive coverage. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off
the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafs, bars, galleries,
palaces, museums and more and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it
how it is. For more, see the authors section on www.lonelyplanet.com.
35
History
A preview of the past: life in Myanmar has rarely been smooth. Squab-
bling kingdoms plagued the area for centuries, till the British took it in
three waves in the 19th century. For its own economic benefit, Britain
managed the mountainous border regions (home to many ethnic groups)
and the fertile plains and delta of central and lower Myanmar (where most
Bamar live) separately, festering a rift between cultures that lingers in full
force today. After a rocky independence from Britain from 1948, General
Ne Win wrestled control in 1962 from the fracturing elected government
and led the country to full isolation from the outside world. Ruined by a
rapidly deteriorating economy and a major currency devaluation in the
1970s and 80s, many thousands of locals flooded the streets peacefully
on 8 August 1988 in prodemocracy marches that saw Aung San Suu Kyi
emerge as a leader recognised worldwide. The violent reaction to this
protest by the military was broadcast on international television screens
and forced the administration to call a national election. The election was
held in 1990, but the military has yet to hand over the government to
Aung San Suu Kyis National League of Democracy (NLD), which won
a staggering percentage of votes.
WHERE HUMANS BEGAN?

Virtually nothing is known of Myanmars prehistoric inhabitants, though
History of Burma (1925),
archaeological evidence suggests the area has been inhabited since at
by GE Harvey, gives a
least 2500 BC. Ancient Greeks knew of Burma. Going a bit further back
chronological rundown
in history: the Myanmar government is proud of recent finds that link
of Myanmars kingdoms
the earliest primates of which, theory goes, humans evolved to Asia,
(from the Pyu era until
or more precisely central Myanmar. A 45 millionyear-old fossil (an
1824). Harvey almost
anklebone of a primate) was supposedly found in central Myanmar in
audibly sighs at the
the late 1990s.
kings blunders, and
faithfully recounts many
EARLY KINGDOMS fanciful legends.
Myanmars landscape a broad expanse of fertile flatland cupped by
protective mountain ranges along its present international borders and
carved by long, very navigable rivers explains a lot of how this land
evolved once migrating ethnic groups decided to stick around. Four
major precolonial ethnic groups peppered the flatlands with kingdoms
for centuries, while smaller ethnic groups lived mostly untouched
in the remote hills beyond. The first major kingdom of sorts started
with the Pyu (who arrived from the Tibeto-Burman plateau or from
The Rakhaing claim the
India). The Pyu created city-states Beikthano, Hanlin (p262), Sri Ksetra
Buddha visited their
(Thayekhittaya; p286) in central Myanmar between the 1st century
kingdom in the 6th
BC and the 9th century AD. In the 10th century, Yunnanese invaders
century BC.
from China enslaved or scared off most Pyu (though some art of the Pyu
remains, showing a blend of Hinduism and Theravada and Mahayana
Buddhism).
The Mon (Tailing), who may have originated from eastern India or main-
land Southeast Asia, arrived in the 6th century, settling fertile lowlands on
TIMELINE 543 BC 1st century BC

Buddhas death Possible founding of Beikthano, a Pyu town east of
current-day Magwe
36 H I S T O R Y T h e Fi r s t B u r m a www.lonelyplanet.com
CAPITAL HOPSCOTCH
Its difficult to give a precise summary of overlapping historical periods, dynasties and locations
of capitals in Myanmar due to a lack of accurate records. Here are general periods of key capitals
of the Pyu, Rakhaing, Mon and Bamar people, although the kingdoms often jumped about as
often as new kings breathed and died.
Pyu Inwa 1364-1555

Beikthano 1st century BC- 1636-1752
5th century AD 1765-83
Hanlin 3rd-9th century 1823-37
Thayekhittaya 3rd-10th century Taungoo 1486-1573
Shwebo 1758-65
Rakhaing (Mokesebo)
Dhanyawady ?-6th century AD Konbaung 1783-1823
Wethali 4th-9th century 1837-57
Mrauk U 13th-18th century Mandalay 1857-85
Mon (Yadanapon)
Thaton (Dvaravati) ?-10th century British
Hanthawady (Bago) 6th-16th century Sittwe & 1826-52
1740-57 Mawlamyine
Bamar Mandalay 1852-86
Bagan 10th-14th century Yangon 1886-1947
Sagaing 1315-64
the Ayeyarwady River delta across Thailand to Cambodia. They developed

the area as Suvannabhumi (Golden Land), the capital either being near
present-day Thaton in Myanmar, or in Thailands Nakhon Pathom.
The Bamar people, or Burmans, arrived from somewhere in the eastern
Himalaya in the 8th or 9th century, supplanting the vanquished Pyu in
central Myanmar, and establishing the cultural heartland of Myanmar
as its still known. Bagan (Pagan) is believed to have been founded by
the Bamar in 849. Centuries of conflict with the Mon erupted after their
arrival, and the end product even with Bamar coming out on top was
really a merger of the two cultures.
Sometimes linked with present-day Bangladesh, the Rakhaing (Araka-
nese) claim their kingdom was well underway by the 6th century BC.
Certainly it was in full force by the 15th century, when as a Buddhist
kingdom based in Mrauk U Rakhaing pirates controlled much of the
Bay of Bengal.
THE FIRST BURMA

Nearly 200 years after Bagan was founded, Anawrahta took the throne
in 1044 and ignited the so-called golden period by consolidating the
scattered kingdoms for the first time. Initially animists, the Bamar had
picked up a hybrid form of Buddhism part Tantric, part Mahayana
during their migration to Myanmar. When the Mon king Manuha of
Thaton refused Anawrahtas request for their Tripitaka (the holy canon
of Theravada Buddhism), Anawrahta marched south and conquered
AD 754 6th9th century

Chinese Yunnan conquers the hill tribes in the north The Mon, then the Bamar people settle in Myanmar
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y S e c o n d B u r m e s e E m p i re 37
Thaton in 1057, bringing back both the scriptures and the king! The
resultant injection of Mon culture in Bagan inspired a creative energy.
It quickly became a city of glorious temples and the capital of the First
Burmese Empire. For more on the history of Bagan see p293. What is currently
In 1077, the kingdom took a steady slip downward when a lowly buffalo considered traditional
killed mighty Anawrahta. None of his successors (Kyanzittha, Alaungsithu Burmese culture is really
and Htilominlo) had his vision, and the kingdoms power slowly declined. a fusion of Mon and
In 1273 King Narathihapate gets the credit for carelessly offending the Bamar cultures that came
growing power of Kublai Khan and his Tartars (assassinating diplomats about at the height of the
will do that), who invaded in 1287 but didnt stay long. Shan tribes from Bagan era.
the hills to the east closely related with the Siamese took the opportu-
nity and grabbed a piece of the low country, while the Mon in the south
broke free of Bamar control and established their own kingdom.
SECOND BURMESE EMPIRE

The 200 years following the collapse of Bagan were chaotic, with pieces
of the puzzle ruled by varying factions. During this time, Marco Polo
probably dropped by in the late 13th century, and the first actual record
of European contact came in 1435, when Venetian trader Nicolo di Conti
travelled along the coast.
In the 13th century the Mon re-established Hanthawady as a fairly stable
kingdom at Bago (Pegu) near Yangon. In 1472, Dhammazedi, the greatest
of Bagos kings, came to the throne; he prompted a Buddhist revival, set
up diplomatic contact with Europe and set the first stones for the great
Shwedagon Paya in Yangon.
Meanwhile the Shan had taken over northern Myanmar and founded the
The Travellers History of
Kingdom of Inwa (mistakenly called Ava by the British) near present-day
Burma (2000), by Gerry
Mandalay in 1364, and the Rakhaing people flourished in western Myan-
Abbot, highlights
mar, building fields of temples to rival Bagan.
interactions with
Amid the testosterone, the tiny settlement of Bamar refugees in central
Myanmar from foreign
Taungoo (surviving between the Mon and Shan by playing the larger forces
eyes from the 14th
off against each other) managed eventually to egg on the so-called Second
century to the end of the
Burmese Empire. In the 16th century, a series of Taungoo kings extended
last millennium.
their power north, nearly to the Shans capital at Inwa, then south, taking
the Mon kingdom and shifting their own capital to Bago. In 1550 Bayin-
naung came to the throne and reunified all of Myanmar and defeated the
neighbouring Siamese so convincingly that it was to be many years before
the long-running friction between the two nations re-emerged.
As happened with Anawrahta, the union slipped into decline following
the rulers death in 1581. The capital was shifted north to Inwa in 1636.
Its isolation from the sea effectively cutting off communication around
the kingdom ultimately contributed to their defeat by the British.
BURMAS LAST KINGS

King Alaungpaya kicked off the third and final Burmese dynasty by con-
testing against the Mon when the Mon took over Inwa in 1752. Some say
Alaungpayas sense of invincibility deluded the Burmese into thinking
they could resist the British later on. After Alaungpayas short bloody
reign (see p38), his son, Hsinbyushin charged into Thailand and levelled
the capital of Ayuthaya, forcing the Siamese to relocate their capital to
849 1057
Bagan founded Ancient Mon city of Thaton conquered by Anawrahtas Bamar
forces from Bagan; First Burmese Empire emerges
38 H I S T O R Y B u r m a s L a s t K i n g s www.lonelyplanet.com
BURMAS GREATEST KING

Mention Alaungpaya to a Burmese person and youll often get a smile. The king with no royal
ties put his hometown of Shwebo (then known as Mokesebo; p260) on the map, and kick-started
Burmas final dynasty by kicking more arse than all the rest of Burmese kings combined. During
his reign, he mocked English dignitaries (like women with soft skin and no tattoos) and shrugged
off offers of assistance (I can crush 100 men such as the king of Bago). Alaungpaya talked big,
but backed it all up plus some.
As the Mon (Tailing) army of Bago conquered a passive Burmese capital of Inwa (Ava) in 1752,
a furious Alaungpaya rallied to keep the Burmese kingdom alive. He readied his hometown (then
home to 300) by digging a moat and building walls. When the Mon asked for Alaungpayas al-
legiance, he attacked.
Word spread of this defiant bumpkin, and Alaungpaya found ready recruits Burmese and
Shan who would accept the measly offerings for serving in his army: no pay (other than selling
any Mon kidnapped) and a BYOBS policy (bring your own bamboo spear to fight with).
Over the next few years, however, the army collected weapons from slain French soldiers (who
aided the Mon) and gradually picked apart the Mon kingdom: taking Inwa in 1753, Pyay in 1755,
Dagon later in 1755 (which he renamed Yangon, meaning End of Strife), and the Mon capital
of Bago in 1757. At one point, so the story goes, Alaungpaya sent 1000 cut-off Mon heads on
a raft to Bago as a gesture of ill will. After five years of battling the Shwebo king, the Mon fled
to Siam where they were assimilated.
Alaungpaya followed them. But he started so late in the year that rains sent him and his army
on retreat. On 11 May 1760, not yet back home, Alaungpaya died at the age of 46. His body
was cremated in Shwebo.
His reign lasted only eight years, but his home is ever revered as Victory Land to most
Burmese.
what eventually became Bangkok. His successor, Bodawpaya (another

son of Alaungpaya), looked for glory too, and brought the Rakhaing
(Arakanese) under Burmese control, which eventually led to tension
with the British (who had economic interests in Rakhaing territory) that
the dynasty would not outlive.
With eyes on Indochina, Britain wrestled all of the increasingly isola-
Some of the first British tionist Burma from the kings in three swipes, named the First, Second and
encounters with Burmese Third Anglo-Burmese Wars picking up Tenasserim and Rakhaing in
kings were in the early 1824, Yangon and southern Burma in 1853, and Mandalay and northern
18th century, when Burma in 1885. The first war started when Burmese troops, ordered by King
Bodawpaya dressed up in Bagyidaw, crossed into British-controlled Assam (in India) from Rakhaing
so much gold (to impress) to pursue refugees. General Maha Bandula managed some minor victories
that he needed assistants using guerrilla tactics, but eventually was killed by cannon fire in 1824;
to help move him to his Burmese troops then surrendered. The Treaty of Yandabo, helped by the
throne. translator of missionary Adoniram Judson (whose name is on many Baptist
churches in Myanmar still), gave Rakhaing and Tenasserim to the British.
Two Burmese kings later, Bagan Min started his reign as many did
with mass executions to rid the capital of his potential rivals. An 1852
incident involving the possible kidnapping of two British sea captains
some argue it never happened gave the British a welcome excuse for
igniting another conflict, and an opportunity for more land. The British
1270s 1273
Marco Polo pops by Burmese slay Tartar ambassadors; a peeved-off Kublai Khan
invades 14 years later
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y E n t e r B r i t a i n 39
quickly seized all of southern Burma, conquering Yangon, Pathein (Bas-

sein) and they marched north to Pyay (Prome), facing little opposition.
The unpopular Bagan Min was ousted in favour of Mindon Min, who
moved the capital to Mandalay in 1857. Mindon Min built Mandalay, but A couple of interesting
unhappily didnt adequately provide for his successor. After he died in 1878, titles (usually available in
the new (rather reluctant) king, Thibaw Min, was propelled to power by Yangon) include A History
his ruthless wife and scheming mother-in-law. The following massive mas- of Burma by Maung Htin
sacre of kinsmen (79 of his rivals) made many British papers previous Aung, and Deposed King
kings hadnt had to face the consequences of world media attention which Thibaw of Burma in India,
did little to support any move to question British power. 18851926, by WS Desai.
ENTER BRITAIN
King Thibaw was totally ineffective and ruthless. Gangs of thugs replaced
relative order in northern Burma. In 1885 it took Britain two weeks to
take Mandalay, the final piece in the Burmese acquisition puzzle. Some
locals today shake their heads stating that Ayeyarwady forts werent used
adequately to repel the British ships; others call the conflict the war over
wood, as Britains victory allowed it to secure rights to the growing teak
industry.
Focused on controlling the rice, gem, petroleum and (particularly) teak
exports, England found Burma easier to control by applying direct rule only
where the Bamar were the majority (ie in the central plains). Hill states of
the Chin, Kachin, Shan, Kayin and Kayah were allowed to remain largely
autonomous. This division would contribute to a rocky start when Myan-
mar became independent in 1948, due to ill-feeling between the groups.
Division among the indigenous population was brought about in other
ways too. As part of British India after 1885, a flood of Indians (whom the For an immensely
Burmese traditionally looked down on) came into the country and became readable fictionalised,
the second colonisers, by building businesses and taking rare low-level but accurate, retelling of
government jobs. The less commercially experienced Burmese were unable Burmas days from the
to compete. By 1930, most of Yangons population was Indian. Chinese fall of King Thibaw to the
were also encouraged to immigrate and set up businesses to stimulate the modern era, read Amitav
economy. Cheap British imports poured in, fuelled by rice profits. Ghoshs The Glass Palace
At this time many old names got new British ones: Rangoon for Yan- (p29).
gon, Prome for Pyay, Burma for Myanmar.
Contrary to the romantic tone of modern English-language accounts
of Burma under the Raj, much of Myanmar was considered a hardship
posting by British colonial officials, who found the Burmese difficult
to govern (and, to be fair, many of the British officials were insensitive
and incompetent). The country had the highest crime rate in the Brit-
ish Empire. Along with railroads and schools, the British built prisons,
including the infamous Insein prison, the Empires largest and still in use
by the current government.
RISE OF NATIONALISM
Or course, many Burmese were not happy with the British presence,
and nationalism burgeoned in the early days of the 20th century often
led by Buddhist monks. In 1919, at Mandalays Eindawya Paya (p236),
monks evicted Europeans who refused to take off their shoes; one monk,
U Kettaya, was given a life sentence. U Ottama, a Burmese monk who had
1364 1435
Shan leaders found Inwa (Ava) Portuguese Nicolo di Conti visits; the first recorded European
contact
40 H I S T O R Y R i s e o f N a t i o n a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com
studied in India and returned to Myanmar in 1921, promoted religious

liberation as way to bring the independence movement to the attention
of the average Burmese Buddhist. After numerous arrests, U Ottama
died in prison in 1939. Another monk, U Wizaya, died in prison after a
163-day hunger strike that began as a protest against a rule that forbade
monks from wearing robes while imprisoned.
University students in Yangon went on strike on National Day in 1920,
protesting elitist entrance requirements at British-built universities; the
students referred to each other as thakin (master), as they claimed to be
the rightful masters of Burma. (Present leader General Than Shwe among
them.) One thakin a young man called Aung San was expelled from
university in 1936 for refusing to reveal who wrote a politically charged
article.
The British were eventually forced to make a number of concessions
towards self-government. In 1937 Myanmar was separated adminis-
tratively from India, but internally the country was torn by a struggle
between opposing Burmese parties and sporadic outbursts of anti-Indian
and anti-Chinese violence.
Aung San & WWII

More famous in the West as Aung San Suu Kyis father, Bogyoke Aung
Irrawaddy Flotilla, by San is still revered as national hero No 1 by most Myanmar people
Alister McRae, highlights from prodemocracy activists to the military regime. His likeness is seen
the British-bred fleet of throughout Myanmar. Aung San Suu Kyi, who was only two when he died,
steamers that continue called him a simple man with a simple aim: to fight for independence.
to ply Myanmars many Born in 1915, Aung San was an active student at Rangoon University.
waterways, while He edited the newspaper and led the All Burma Students Union. At 26
The Longest War years old, he and the group called the Thirty Comrades looked abroad
194145, by Louis for support of their independence movement. After initially planning to
Allen, gives an excellent seek it in China, they negotiated for military training in Japan, and re-
account of the WWII turned as the first troops of the Burmese National Army (BNA) with the
campaign in Burma. invading Japanese troops in 1941. By mid-1942, the Japanese had driven
retreating British-Indian forces, along with the Chinese Kuomintang
(KMT), out of most of Myanmar. But the harsh and arrogant conduct of
the Japanese soon alienated the Myanmar people. Aung San complained
at Japans 15th Army headquarters in Maymyo (now Pyin U Lwin): I
went to Japan to save my people who were struggling like bullocks under
the British. But now we are treated like dogs.
MAJOR WWII SITES IN MYANMAR

Lashio (p215) Where the infamous Burma Road began
Taukkyan War Cemetery (p140) Final resting place of over 33,000 allied soldiers
Death Railway terminus (p159) Western end of Japanese-designed BurmaSiam Railway
(of Bridge over the River Kwai fame), built by Allied POWs and Asian coolies and which claimed
over 100,000 lives
British Colonial Diplomat House, Meiktila (p288) Former Japanese interrogation centre,
now a hotel
1472 1550
The great Mon King Dhammazedi takes the throne and sets up Bayinnaung ascends to the throne and reunifies all of Myanmar;
diplomatic contact with Europe the Second Burmese Empire
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y U N U & E a r l y W o e s 41
Aung San and the BNA switched allegiance to the Allied side. The
British, helped by the imaginative Chindit anti-Japanese operation,
ultimately prevailed. The Allies suffered about 27,000 casualties, while
nearly 200,000 Japanese perished during the campaign.
Footsteps to Independence
In January 1947, Aung San visited London as the colonys deputy chairman
of the Governors Executive Council, and signed a pact (the Aung San
Attlee agreement) allowing self-rule within a year. Plans included an April
election of a constituent assembly, made up of nationals of Burma only; also
Burma would receive an interest-free loan of 8 million from Britain.
A month later, Aung San met with Shan, Chin and Kachin leaders in
Panglong, in Shan State. They signed the famous Panglong Agreement
in February 1947, guaranteeing ethnic minorities the freedom to choose
their political destiny if dissatisfied with the situation after 10 years.
The agreement also broadly covered absent representatives of the Kayin,
Kayah, Mon and Rakhaing.
In the elections for the assembly, Aung Sans Anti-Fascist Peoples Democracy is the only
Freedom League (AFPFL) won an overwhelming 172 seats out of 225. The ideology which is
Burmese Communist Party took seven, while the Bamar opposition (led consistent with freedom
by U Saw) took three. The remaining 69 seats were split between ethnic It is therefore the only
minorities (including four seats for the Anglo-Burman community). ideology we should
Britain hoped to maintain influence and wanted a gradual transition. aim for
Aung San wanted immediate independence with a democratic, civilian AUNG SAN
government.
He wouldnt live to see it. On 19 July 1947, the 32-year-old Aung San
and six aides were gunned down in a plot ascribed to U Saw. (Some
speculate that the military was involved, due to Aung Sans plans to
demilitarise the government.) Apparently U Saw thought hed walk into
the prime ministers role with Aung San gone; instead he took the noose,
when the British had him hanged in 1948.
U NU & EARLY WOES

While Myanmar mourned the death of a hero, Prime Minister Attlee and
Aung Sans protg, U Nu, signed an agreement for the transfer of power
in October 1947. On 4 January 1948, at an auspicious middle-of-the-
night hour, Burma became independent and left the British Common-
wealth. As Aung San had promised, the national presidency was given to
a representative from an ethnic minority group, and Sao Shwe Thaike, a
Shan leader, became the first president of the Union of Burma.
Almost immediately, the new government had to contend with the
complete disintegration of the country involving rebels, communists,
gangs and US-supported anticommunist Chinese KMT forces.
The hill-tribe people, who had supported the British and fought against
the Japanese throughout the war, were distrustful of the Bamar majority
and went into armed opposition. The communists withdrew from the gov-
ernment and attacked it. Muslims from the Rakhaing area also opposed
the new government. The Mon, long thought to be totally integrated with
the Burmese, revolted. Assorted factions, private armies, WWII resistance
groups and plain mutineers further confused the picture.
1627 17535
Dutch and English East India Company opens branches Burmese king Alaungpaya conquers Inwa, then Dagon, which he
renames as Yangon
42 H I S T O R Y N e W i n & t h e R o a d t o S o c i a l i s m www.lonelyplanet.com
In early 1949 almost the entire country was in the hands of a number
Burma: Prospects for of rebel groups, and there was even fighting in Yangons suburbs. At one
Political and Economic stage the government was on the point of surrendering to the communist
Reconstruction (1997), forces, but gradually fought back, and through 1950 and 1951 regained
by David I Steinberg, control of much of the country.
written for the World Also, with the collapse of Chiang Kai-Sheks KMT forces before Mao
Peace Foundation, gives Zedongs, the tattered remnants of the KMT withdrew into northern
a quick summing-up of Burma and mounted raids from there into Yunnan, China. Being no
the present woes and match for the Chinese communists, the KMT decided to carve their own
concludes that The little fiefdom out of Burmese territory.
Burmese will determine
their own fate. NE WIN & THE ROAD TO SOCIALISM
By the mid-1950s, the government had strengthened its hold on the
country, but the economy slipped from bad to worse. A number of gran-
diose development projects succeeded only in making foreign advisors
rather wealthy, and in 1953 the Burmese bravely announced that aid or
assistance from the USA was no longer welcome, as long as US-supplied
Chinese KMT forces were at large within the country. U Nu managed to
remain in power until 1958, when he voluntarily handed the reins over
to a military government under General Ne Win.
Considering the pride most of the country had for the Burmese army
which helped bring independence and was founded by Aung San this
was seen as a welcome change. Freed from the democratic responsibili-
ties inherent in a civilian government, Ne Win was able to make some
excellent progress during the 15 months his military government oper-
ated. A degree of law and order was restored, rebel activity was reduced
and Yangon was given a massive and much-needed cleanup.
In early 1960, elections were held and U Nu regained power with a
much-improved majority, but once again political turmoil developed.
His party threatened to break up into opposing groups and in early
1962 Ne Win assumed power again and abolished the parliament. He
After being forced into established his own 17-member Revolutionary Council, announcing that
exile, one-time leader the country would march towards socialism in our own Burmese way.
U Nu vainly attempted This time U Nu did not hand over power voluntarily, and along with his
to oppose the Ne Win main ministers was thrown into prison, where he remained until forced
government from abroad. into exile in 1966.
In 1980 he returned to The Burmese Road to Socialism was a steadily downhill path. A
Yangon, where he trans- rice-growing wonder fell into economic free fall. Nationalisation policies
lated Buddhist scripture were extended right down to the retail shop level in 1966 when it was
most of the time. He died announced that a long list of items would only be available from Peoples
in 1995. Shops. The net result was frightening; many everyday commodities im-
mediately became available only on the black market, and vast numbers of
people were thrown out of work by the closure of retail outlets.
A disingenuous sock the rich measure demonetised the largest bank-
notes (K50 and K100). Anybody so unfortunate as to have these notes
found them to be worthless. Many of the retail traders who became
unemployed following the nationalisation of retail trade were Indians
and Chinese vestiges of the colonial era in Bamar eyes and they
were hustled out of the country with Draconian thoroughness. No com-
pensation was paid for their expropriated businesses, and each adult
1826 1852
England annexes Rakhaing and Tenasserim, following First Second Anglo-Burmese War gives Britain Bago
Anglo-Burmese War
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y N e W i n & t h e R o a d t o S o c i a l i s m 43
was allowed to depart with only K75 plus K250 in gold. As many as a
250,000 people of Indian and Chinese descent left Burma during the
1960s. Anti-Chinese riots in Yangon in 1967 spurred by fears that the
Chinese were about to import Chinas Cultural Revolution resulted
in hundreds of Chinese deaths.
In late 1974 there were serious student disturbances over the burial
of former United Nations (UN) secretary-general and long-time Ne
Win political foe, U Thant, yet overall the government appeared firmly
in control and determined to continue its strange progress towards a
Burmese Utopia. In late 1981 Ne Win retired as president of the repub-
lic (retaining his position as chair of the Burmese Socialist Programme
Party, the countrys only legal political party at the time), but his suc-
cessor, San Yu, and the government remained guided very much by Ne
Wins political will.
8-8-88
With the standard of living in Burma on a continual downward spi-
ral, something happened that no-one foresaw. In 1987 and 1988, the
long-suffering Burmese people decided they had had enough of their
incompetent and arrogant government and packed the streets in huge
demonstrations, insisting that Ne Win go.
Ne Win voluntarily retired from the chairmanship of the party in July
1988, but it was too late to halt the agitation of the people. The massive
prodemocracy demonstrations, spurred by the further demonetisation of
large notes and a prophecy that Burma would become a free country on
the auspicious date of 8 August 1988 (8-8-88), were brutally crushed by the
government, with at least 3000 deaths recorded over a six-week period.
Ne Wins National Unity Party (NUP; formerly the Burmese Socialist
Programme Party) was far from ready to give up control, and the public
protests continued as two Ne Win stooges succeeded him. The third Ne
Win successor came to power after a military coup in September 1988,
which, it is generally believed, was organised by Ne Win.
A newly formed State Law & Order Restoration Council (Slorc) estab-
lished martial law under the leadership of General Saw Maung, com-
In 1989, Slorc changed
mander in chief of the armed forces, and promised to hold democratic
the countrys official
National Assembly elections in May 1989.
name from the Union of
The opposition quickly formed a coalition party called the National
Burma to the Union of
League for Democracy (NLD) and campaigned for all it was worth. The
Myanmar, claiming that
long-suppressed Burmese population rallied around charismatic NLD
Burma was a vestige of
spokesperson Aung San Suu Kyi, daughter of hero Aung San. Suu Kyi,
European colonialism.
conversant in Burmese, Japanese, French and English and married to an
Other name changes
Oxford University professor, brought a hitherto-unseen sophistication
included Rangoon (back
to Burmese politics.
to Yangon).
Nervous, Slorc tried to appease the masses with new roads and adding
a coat of paint to many buildings in Yangon, and then it attempted to
interfere in the electoral process by shifting villages from one part of the
country to another and by postponing the election. Perhaps the biggest sur-
prise came with the announcement that the government was abandoning
socialism in favour of a capitalist economy in all but a few industries.
In July 1989 Aung San Suu Kyi was placed under house arrest.
1885 19478
Third Anglo-Burmese War ends era of Burmese kings General Aung San assassinated; independence achieved
44 H I S T O R Y 1 9 9 0 E l e c t i o n & t h e N L D www.lonelyplanet.com
1990 ELECTION & THE NLD

Feeling it had effectively dealt with the opposition, the government
allowed an election in May 1990 (the first in 30 years). In spite of all
its preventive measures, the NUP lost the election to the NLD, which
took 392 of the 485 contested seats. Slorc barred the elected members
of parliament from assuming power, however, decreeing that a state-
approved constitution had to be passed by national referendum first. In
October 1990 the military raided NLD offices and arrested key leaders.
Since that time over 100 elected parliamentarians have been disquali-
fied, imprisoned, exiled or killed. Some observers wonder if the election
Had the NLD been
was a ruse to get opposition out in the open, where they could be more
installed in government,
easily crushed.
Suu Kyi wouldnt have
Before her arrest in 1989, Suu Kyi had been appointed secretary gen-
been the leader. She may
eral of the NLD. The main NLD candidates in line for any potential
have been given a high
premiership that might have occurred if the 1990 election results had
position, though the
been recognised by the current regime were U Aung Shwe, U Tin Oo
constitution forbids those
and U Kyi Maung, all ex-officers. It was widely acknowledged, even back
married to foreigners
in 1990, that Slorc would never allow a person of Aung San Suu Kyis
from holding high public
background (an ex-resident of the country, and married to a Briton) to
office.
run for office; it was equally acknowledged that the candidates who stood
the best chance of acceptance by the military dictatorship were those with
a military background. It turned out that even this was not enough to
make the ruling junta relinquish control.
After the events of 198889, the world press at first gave amazingly
little coverage to politics in the country that had been renamed Myanmar.
In January 1991, Suu Kyi was awarded the Sakharov Prize for freedom
of thought by the European Parliament, and in October of the same year
she was honoured with the Nobel Peace Prize. Another international
honour came her way in June 1992 when Unesco awarded Suu Kyi the
Simn Bolivar Prize. In May 1995, Suu Kyi was honoured with a fourth
international award when India presented the leader, in absentia, with the
Jawaharlal Nehru Award for International Understanding. As the world
media began to follow events in Myanmar, prodemocracy elements, both
within the country and abroad, proved themselves to be much more
media savvy than the military junta. The democratisation of Burma, as
most prodemocracy groups still call the country, soon became a cause
Aung San Suu Kyi has
clbre for sundry activists and Hollywood celebrities.
been under house arrest
Much to the joy of the Burmese people and her supporters abroad, the
three times (from July
government released Suu Kyi from house arrest in July 1995 after nearly
1989 to July 1995; from
six years. Suu Kyis detention was the most potent symbol of government
September 2000 to May
repression and the biggest magnet for international attention, but many
2002; and from May 2003
other high-level dissidents, including the NLDs Tin U and Kyi Maung,
to the present).
were also released at this time not from house arrest, but from prison.
For several months Suu Kyi was allowed to address crowds of supporters
from her residence. In May and September 1996, Suu Kyi held a congress
of NLD members in a bold political gambit to demonstrate that the
NLD was still an active political force. The junta responded by detaining
hundreds who attended the congress and the street leading to Suu Kyis
residence was blockaded, prohibiting her from making speeches at her
residence.
1962 1975
Ne Win establishes power after military coup Massive earthquake rocks Bagan
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r 45
THE WRITINGS OF AUNG SAN SUU KYI

It takes very little reading to understand why so many people in Myanmar have a deep respect
for the Lady, Aung San Suu Kyi. Her interviews with journalist Alan Clements, described in
Voices of Hope (1997), often intermingle politics and Buddhism. Freedom from Fear (1991) is a
collection of her writings on topics ranging from her father to winning the Nobel Peace Prize.
Letters from Burma (1997) features a collection of letters Suu Kyi wrote on Burmese culture for
a Japanese publication.
In 1998 18 foreign activists were arrested in Yangon in 1998 for dis-

tributing antigovernment leaflets. In the same year Suu Kyi attempted to
leave Yangon to meet with supporters outside the city but was blocked
by the military and forcibly returned to Yangon. In 1999 Suu Kyis Brit-
ish husband, Oxford professor Michael Aris, died of cancer shortly after
Yangon denied him a visa to see Suu Kyi one last time in Myanmar. Al-
though they hadnt seen each other since January 1996, Suu Kyi felt she
had no choice but to stay in Myanmar, fearing that if she left the country
to visit her husbands deathbed in England, she would be refused re-entry
and forced into exile.
Suu Kyi made a second attempt to leave Yangon to meet with support-
ers in September 2000, but was stopped at a military roadblock. After
spending six days in her car by the roadside, Suu Kyi was once again
placed under house arrest.
In October 2000, secret talks began between Suu Kyi and the junta Aung San Suu Kyi
the most significant step towards reconciliation since the elections. Bro- returned to Burma from
kered by Rizali Ismail, a former Malaysian diplomat and special envoy Britain in 1998 to tend
to UN Secretary General Kofi Annan, the talks resulted in the release of to her dying mother. At
hundreds of political prisoners. A very noticeable result of the talks was the time disquiet with
the cessation of crude attacks against Suu Kyi in the Myanmar media. The the government was at
NLD in return stopped its direct criticism of the Myanmar government. a peak
In May 2002 Suu Kyi was released from house arrest and immediately
announced that her demands for political reform had not changed as a
result of the talks with the junta. Her unconditional release promised
the opposition leader freedom of movement for the first time in over
12 years. In the weeks following her release she visited NLD offices in
townships in the Rangoon area, and in late June made a triumphant visit
to Mandalay. It was Suu Kyis first trip to Myanmars second-largest city
since 1989 (her September 2000 attempt to visit Mandalay was thwarted
by the military).
In May 2003, while touring Sagaing District outside Budalin (north of
Monywa), Suu Kyi and a party of 250 NLD members were attacked. Its
believed as many as 100 people were killed. Many others were held in
detention. Suu Kyi spent several months in jail and underwent a hunger
strike. She was eventually transferred to her house. She is still there.
THE WORLD & MYANMAR

To improve its image, Slorc hired a Washington, DC public-relations
firm for help, which suggested changing its name to the State Peace &
Development Council (SPDC), which it did in November 1997.
1988 1990
On 8/8 (8 August), huge prodemocracy nonviolent marches; army NLD earns 82% of votes in election but the military refuses to hand
kills over 3000 over power
46 H I S T O R Y T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r www.lonelyplanet.com
Initially after 1988, the West established embargoes on arms sales

and most foreign aid to Myanmar. But some companies such as the
UKs Premier Oil, Frances Total and USAs Unocal helped develop
offshore gas fields. Stronger international sanctions were taken in 1997
by the USA, the regimes harshest critic, when it banned new investment
by American companies in Myanmar. Strong lobbying by activists and
threats of consumer boycotts forced some major companies (including
PepsiCo, Heineken, Carlsberg and Levi Strauss) to either pull out or
decide against investing in the country.
In November 1999, the UN International Labour Organization took
the unprecedented step of recommending sanctions against Myanmar for
its use of civilians for forced labour and treacherous tasks of porterage
for the military (including serving as human landmine detectors). Its
174 member nations were advised to review their links with Myanmar
and ensure they did not support forced labour there. In June 2001, UN
agencies in Myanmar warned in a joint letter to their headquarters that
Myanmar was facing a humanitarian crisis and that it was a moral and
ethical necessity for the international community to extend more aid.
The letter stated that one-quarter of Burmese babies were born under-
weight and, as of the end of 1999, an estimated 530,000 people were
Although Ne Win had
HIV-positive. The letter also stated that Myanmar only receives annual
retired from all official
foreign aid equivalent to about US$1 per capita, compared with US$35
positions in 1988, he was
for Cambodia and US$68 for Laos.
widely believed to call
In a controversial move in 2001, Japan broke ranks in the embargo
the shots for many years
on nonhumanitarian aid to Myanmar when it offered US$28 million in
thereafter possibly up
technical assistance to repair the Baluchaung hydroelectric power plant
till his death in December
in Kayah State as an incentive for the regime to press ahead with recon-
2002.
ciliation talks with Suu Kyi.
The sanctions got stronger following Aung San Suu Kyis third ar-
rest in 2003. US President George W Bush authorised full economic
sanctions, which resulted in foreign banks in Myanmar packing up and
leaving. The wording of EUs sanctions, however, allowed Frances Total
gas company to continue operating there. Much criticism has focussed
on whether forced labour was used from 1995 to 1998 to build Totals
Yadana pipeline, which reportedly generates anywhere from US$150 mil-
lion to US$400 million annually.
Critics of the use of sanctions argue that these measures hurt the local
workforce. After US sanctions, many garment factories, virtually all of
which are privately owned, closed down, reportedly leading to the loss of
40,000 to 60,000 jobs. For more on the sanctions debate, see p17.
Despite the Myanmars governments human-rights record, a number
of foreign investors most of them Asian (particularly Chinese, but
also Singaporean, Japanese, Indian and Thai) continue to invest huge
amounts of foreign currency into private development projects, espe-
cially in the Yangon to Mandalay corridor. See p22 for more on foreign
investment.
The land border between Myanmar and China stands wide open for
legal and illegal trade, and acts as the main supply line for millions of
dollars worth of Chinese weaponry destined for Myanmars military,
along with another estimated US$1 billion in consumer goods annually. A
1996 1997
The Governments Visit Myanmar Year prompts ongoing tourism Myanmar joins Asean
boycott
www.lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y T h e W o r l d & M y a n m a r 47
1994 visit to Yangon by Chinese Premier Li Peng the man who ordered
the Tiananmen Square massacre one year after Myanmars bloody 1988
putdown reaffirmed Chinas firm approval of Myanmars government.
Meanwhile the repression of free speech and other human rights con-
tinues under the SPDC leadership. A report commissioned by the In-
ternational Commission of Jurists (ICJ) in Geneva describes systematic
human-rights violations, including arbitrary arrests of anyone opposed to
the junta, the torture of detainees, severe media restrictions, forced relo-
cation of 500,000 urban dwellers, and forced conscription of civilians to
serve as anything from porters to human minesweepers for the military.
(See p56 for examples of media restrictions, and p65 for how censor-
ship even affects rock music albums.) The government also frequently
requests volunteer beautification labour (in effect, forced labour) from
city, town and village residents, requiring them to paint their houses,
dig drainage ditches, build walls and weed the roadside. (Apparently
Considering the US
forced labour has decreased since the early 1990s, according to Amnesty
renewal of Most
International, but is still very much in use. See www.amnesty.org or www
Favoured Nation trade
.irrawaddy.org, among other sites, for updates on this issue.)
status for China, and
Myanmar gained some international muscle with its controversial
China remains a foreign-
membership of Asean, which it joined in 1997. Despite some murmurs
trade hub for Asia,
of discontent regarding the arrest of Aung San Suu Kyi, no Asean officials
Myanmars government
have directly confronted the generals on the issue. Some commentators
believes it need not fear
wonder whether the 2006 Asean summit, scheduled for Yangon, will go
trade sanctions with
forward if Suu Kyi isnt free by the time.
the West.
In 2004 Prime Minister Khin Nyunt, a disciple of Ne Win, who sought
to re-create himself after Ne Wins death in 2002 with the seven-step
Roadway to Democracy programme, was ousted by hard-line Than
Shwe, who claims he will continue the roadway. See p34 for more on
recent events in Myanmar.
2003 2004
Aung San Suu Kyi placed under house arrest (for third time); USA Myanmar opens worlds largest tiger reserve, ousts prime minister
and EU impose tougher sanctions
48
The Culture
NATIONAL PSYCHE
Although isolated, subjugated and poor, the Myanmar people can be
as proud of their country and culture as any nationality youll meet.
Locals gush over past kings, pwe (festivals), mohinga (noodles with
chicken or fish) breakfasts, great temples and, for many, Theravada
Buddhism itself. Of course Buddhism here comes with a heavy dosage
of bamahsan chinn (Burmeseness) a Buddhism-influenced complex
word describing the gentle personality of many, which includes undying
respect for elders, modesty in dress, and a preference for subtlety rather
than loudness or directness. Another trait is ah har de, a sense of not
wanting to make waves or pass on unpleasant news. Perhaps telling is
Pico Iyers great piece on hanging out with Myanmar students in Video
Nights in Kathmandu (1988); though released on the eve of the explosive
prodemocracy marches of that year, students talk of moonwalking, and
Living Silence: Burma
do not even show a glimpse of the bubbling discontent.
under Military Rule (2001),
Even small-scale open dialogue is not an everyday aspect of life. One
by Christina Fink, sums up
exiled Myanmar man explained: The most important thing I got out of
Myanmars military years
being in England was watching political TV shows, where people were
and how the military
arguing, explaining different viewpoints. That never happens at home.
affects various aspects of
It tends to surprise locals if an American tourist vocalises disapproval
life all peppered with
of George W Bushs policies, for example. Locals here tend to cheer for
fascinating quotes from
Arsenal, Manchester United and Chelsea.
a wide cross-section of
Myanmar people.
LIFESTYLE
Exiled writer Pascal Khoo Thwe writes that, growing up in Myanmars
hills, traditional family life meant that Earth is round at school and flat
at home, meaning some aspects of modern life are left, along with your
shoes, outside the door at home.
Families in Myanmar are big, and the birth of a boy or girl is a big
occasion. While boys are coddled more, girls are equally welcomed, as
theyre expected to look after parents later in life. You might find three or
four generations of a family living in a two- or three-room house. Some
thatched huts in the countryside have generators pumping life into the
TV a couple hours a night. Running water outside the cities and bigger
TOP FIVE FIRST QUESTIONS ASKED

Burma or Myanmar? Britain renamed Myanma as Burma (after the majority Bamar, or
Burmese, people); the junta restored the original name of Myanmar in 1989; Burmese in this
book refers to the food, the Bamar and the language.
Men in skirts? Most Myanmar men wear longyi (saronglike wraparound skirts); its easy to
understand why when the heat hits you.
Mud on face? Women, kids and some men sprinkle, stripe or blotch their faces with tan
thanakha (powdered bark) as make-up.
Is that blood? No. The red droplets in corners and sidewalks are relinquished bits of betel,
made from the chopped nut and a paste of slaked lime; youll see betel sold from streetside
stands, wrapped into small leaves.
How to say thanks? C-z-bh.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E L i fe s t y l e 49
towns is rare. Many families put coconut symbols of the house guardian
nat (spirit) inside (see p000). TheCultr/RigonBdsmIMyar/The37Nt
The bulk of village life revolves around the farm. Here Yangons politics
or dreams of wealth can pale in importance to the season, the crop, the
level of the river (where they bathe, clean and get their drinking water)
and Buddha. One local outside Shwebo told us, All I want is K2000 a
day for rice to feed my family.
DOS & DONTS

Etiquette
Many locals are too kind to mention to a traveller when theyre being insensitive. So, let it be your
role to (politely) tell fellow travellers when theyre acting inappropriately. Here are the basics:
When visiting a Buddhist sight, dont wear shoes, shorts, short skirts, or have exposed shoulders.
Dont thrust a camera into a monks (or anyones) face for a photo.
Dont pose with, sit on, or strike Buddha images.
Take your shoes off (not necessarily socks) when entering private homes.
Dont touch somebody on the head (including patting a childs head).
Dont point your feet at anybody or anything apologise if you accidentally brush someone
with your foot.
When shaking hands or handing over something, do so with your right hand, while touching
your right elbow with your left hand.
Dont step over somebody who is sitting or lying on the floor (such as on a boat deck).
What to Give
Many travellers are prone to give gifts to locals in this impoverished country. Gifts can be big
thrills and are often asked for by children around the country but foreigners should exercise
care when deciding what and where and to whom they give things to. One way to discourage
kids from begging, and to show respect, is giving toys or kid-related gifts either directly to their
parents or to schools or monasteries. Here are a few gift suggestions:
Donate school supplies such as cheap pens and pencils bought locally all of which are
highly sought.
Bring self-made or bought English-language tapes to give out to villagers who cant afford
English classes.
Bring some popular English-language magazines and books; locals love to read, and mate-
rial is hard to find in cash-poor Myanmar; exercise care in handing over any that could carry
political overtones (such as the New Yorker or the Economist or Myanmar-related books); hand
discreetly over to new friends in their homes.
Other popular gifts include Western T-shirts, lipstick, toys, baseball-style caps, stickers and
chocolates (though heat ruins them in a hurry).
Bring photographs of your city, home, family or postcards you can leave.
Instantly appearing images on digital cameras viewfinder screens draw much applause from
locals.
If asked, make simple suggestions of what tourists might be interested in, to prompt grass-
roots entrepreneurship (eg night market walking tours etc).
Donate to villages seeking aid for health clinics (about 0.4% of the national budget goes
to health care); at research time, we bumped into a Swiss tourist who contacted the Bagan
Department of Archaeology seeking to fund placing a glass shield over unprotected 800-
year-old murals.
50 T H E C U LT U R E P o p u l a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
In the cities, large apartment blocks are connected to more-or-less

around-the-clock electricity. Residents are better educated, sometimes
working as lawyers, doctors, clerks and officials that is, they work in
buildings. Theyre a bit more internationally aware, and likely to speak
more English. Where electricity exists, it invariably clicks off frequently
when it does listen up for the ahhhs and laughter that good-naturedly
follows.
For Buddhists, especially, the acquisition ofspiritualmerit by giving
to monks, adding gold-leaf layers to Buddha images helps worshippers
achieve enlightenment. This is why locals in towns that lack a health
clinic may bang alms bowls on the side of the road for donations to help
build a new pagoda, for example.
Death is a big deal, though mourned for less time than in much of the
West. To miss a funeral is an unimaginable faux pas. If a heated argument
goes too far, the ultimate capper is to yell, Oh yeah? Dont come to my
funeral when I die. Cemeteries are not well tended, and rarely visited, as
many consider it bad luck to go near the dead (often the widowed arent
invited to wedding parties, and weve seen fishers do their thing while
ignoring a floating body no-one dares to touch).
POPULATION
About 11% of Myanmars 52 million people live in the capital, Yangon.
In Myanmars tain Its estimated, though, that seven in 10 people are involved in agriculture.
(divisions) the Bamar Unlike many developing-world countries, there isnt a massive flocking
(Burman) people are in to the big cities: jobs are scarce in the capital with inflation soaring at 50%
the majority (Yangon, Ay- and international banks (and their potential credit) fleeing in 2003 due to
eyarwady, Bago, Magwe, economic sanctions imposed by the international community.
Mandalay, Sagaing, Historically, the diverse ethnic make-up of the country has been sepa-
Tanintharyi) but in the pyi rated by its topography. The broad central plain, with the Ayeyarwady
(states) the non-Bamar River and Myanmars most fertile soil, has been run by whichever group
are in the majority (Shan, was strongest (usually the Bamar, or Burmese, in the past few hundred
Kachin, Chin, Rakhaing, years). Most ethnic groups continue to live in some sort of isolation in
Kayah, Kayin, Mon). the mountains lining much of Myanmars international borders, notably
the Shan, Kayah and Kayin (Karen) in the east; the Kachin to the north;
and the Chin and Rakhaing to the west.
There are roughly 71 people per sq km (compared to 939 per sq km
in neighbouring Bangladesh), and outside Yangon or Mandalay, theres
Laos-like elbow room.
ETHNICITY
One of the more exciting aspects of travel in Myanmar is getting the op-
portunity to experience a corner of Asia that in many ways has changed
Ethnologists have
little since British colonial times. Due to its isolation self-imposed and
suggested that there
otherwise Myanmar has yet to be completely overwhelmed by outside
are actually some 135
clothing influences. Nowhere else in Southeast Asia will you see so
distinct ethnic groups
many sarongs, turbans and other exotic apparel. Of course, differences
living in Myanmar.
in dress are just a hint of the distinctions between Myanmars diverse
ethnic populations.
Officially Myanmars 50-plus million residents (not including Chinese,
Indian, Nepalese and other groups) are divided into eight nationalities
the Bamar, Shan, Mon, Kayin, Kayah, Chin, Kachin and Rakhaing but
the Myanmar government further subdivides these eight groups into 67
subgroups. Weve made a list of the 10 groups visitors to Myanmar are
most likely to encounter or read about.
As in many other ethnically (and religiously) diverse countries, feelings
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E S t a t e s & D i v i s i o n s o f M y a n m a r 51
0 200 km
STATES & DIVISIONS OF MYANMAR 0 120 miles
CHINA
(TIBET)
BHUTAN
KACHIN
INDIA STATE
Myitkyina
CHINA
BANGLADESH
SAGAING
DIVISION
Hakha
Sagaing
Mandalay
SHAN
CHIN STATE
STATE
MANDALAY
DIVISION
Taunggyi
Sittwe Magwe
LAOS
MAGWE
DIVISION Loikaw
KAYAH
RAKHAING STATE
STATE
BAGO
DIVISION
KAYIN
STATE
Bago
Pathein Hpa-an
YANGON
AYEYARWADY YANGON
DIVISION DIVISION
Mawlamyine
MON
THAILAND
STATE
Dawei
TANINTHARYI
DIVISION
Andaman
Islands
(INDIA)
ANDAMAN
SEA
Gulf of
Thailand
52 T H E C U LT U R E E t h n i c i t y www.lonelyplanet.com
of pride and prejudice cause friction between

MYANMAR: Myanmars ethnic groups. Ask a Bamar (or

ETHNO-GEOGRAPHY a Shan or a Kayin) their opinion about their
countrymen of different ethnic or religious
backgrounds to get an idea of what kinds of
INDIA challenges governments in Myanmar have
CHINA
faced in their efforts to keep the peace and
preserve the borders.

Myitkyina
In recent years, theres been a massive in-
flux of Chinese people into northern Burma,
evident in Mandalay and certainly in border
towns such as Mong La, where the yuan is
Lashio the local currency.
Hakha

Sagaing Mandalay Bamar
The Bamar also known as Burman or Bur-
LAOS
mese make up the majority (68%) of the
Taunggyi population and, not surprisingly, rule the
Loikaw
country. Thought to have originally migrated
Sittwe
from the Himalaya, the Bamar ruled much

of what is now Myanmar from Bagan by the
THAILAND 11th century. When the British conquered

Bay of Bago
Hpa-an Myanmar in the 19th century, it was the
Bengal Bamar who had to relinquish the most. Many

YANGON
Pathein Mawlamyine ancient court customs and arts were lost as

the Bamar monarchy was abolished.
Devout Theravada Buddhists, the Bamar
Chin
Kachin
Dawei
from the top military generals to trishaw
drivers believe that being Buddhist is a key

Shan
Kayin aspect of being Bamar, and the Myanmar
(Karen) media reports daily on the merit-making of
Bamar
(Burman)
Rakhaing
Mon
Kayah
top officials at the countrys principal Bud-
dhist places of worship. Government nation-
building efforts have included establishing
the Bamar language (Burmese) as the lan-
guage of instruction in schools throughout
ANDAMAN SEA
Myanmar. So most non-Bamar speak Bur-
mese as a second language.
Chin
The Chin inhabits the mountainous region (mostly corresponding with
Chin State) that borders on India and Bangladesh to the west. In the
past, the Chin, as with most highland dwellers, led labour-intensive lives
and their relatively simple traditional dress reflected this. Men wore loin-
cloths in the warmer months and draped blankets over themselves when
the weather turned cool. The women wore poncholike garments woven
with intricate geometric patterns. These garments and Chin blankets are
highly sought-after by textile collectors today.
The most extraordinary Chin fashion of old was the custom of tattoo-
ing the womens faces. Chin facial tattoos cover the whole face starting
at just above the bridge of the nose and radiating out in a pattern of dark
lines that resemble a spiders web. Even the eyelids were tattooed. The
tattooing was traditionally done to girls once they reached the age of 12
or 13. Legend has it that this practice was initiated to keep young Chin
maidens from being coveted by Rakhaing princes whose kingdom bor-
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E E t h n i c i t y 53
SUBJUGATION
With the complete takeover of Myanmar by the British in 1886, new borders were drawn. As
with so many of the boundaries superimposed on maps during the European colonisation of the
world, these borders had little to do with ethnic groupings, and there were many old rivals and
enemies within the borders of British Burma. The colonisers managed to keep animosity between
ethnic groups under controlby utilising the carrot of semi-autonomy or the stick of arrest and
imprisonment. Over a century later, despite a different bunch of rulers, little has changed.
Acts of insurgency between Bamar-majority government troops and minority ethnic groups
that smouldered for four decades after independence have been largely quelled. Groups that
signed ceasefire agreements with the government (the Kachin, Kayah etc) have been granted
limited economic autonomy. Those groups that continue to fight the government (some Shan
and Kayin) are dealt with severely. In rebel-controlled areas, government troops have been ac-
cused of using rape as a weapon and adopting a scorched-earth policy that regularly sends
groups of refugees fleeing across the borders into Thailand and Bangladesh. Some observers of
politics in Myanmar predict that, given a choice, many of Myanmars ethnic groups would opt
for independence and break away from Bamar-controlled Myanmar.
dered the southern Chin Hills. The practice died out after WWII, but in
many Chin villages (particularly in the more traditional southern areas)
you can see a few tattooed grannies going about their daily chores.
Many Chin, particularly in the north, are Christian, following the ef-
forts of American missionaries during the British colonial period. Chin
State is restricted to travellers, but can be visited with government per-
mission (p000). Kalaymyo (p000) is a half-Chin town that can be reached,
WestrnMyam/ChiS AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcKalymo
by air, without permit.
Kachin
The Kachin (who call themselves Jingpaw) were heavily targeted by
Christian missionaries during British colonial times. The Baptists seemed
to have been the most successful, with the Catholics following close
behind. As much of the Kachin State lies above the tropic of Cancer,
the climate is more extreme stifling hot in the summer months and
downright cold in the winter and the Kachin seem to have abandoned
their traditional dress for Western clothes that can be easily changed to
suit the seasons.
About the only vestige of Kachin dress that foreign visitors are likely
to encounter are mens longyi (saronglike lower garment) of indigo,
green and deep-purple plaid. During festive occasions Kachin dress is
quite impressive. Women sport finely woven wool skirts decorated with
zigzag or diamond patterns and dark blouses festooned with hammered
Travellers can visit the
silver medallions and tassels. These exotic blouses are admired by the
Kachin in Myitkyina
Bamar and until fairly recently it was not uncommon for photo studios
(p000), home to the
in Bamar-majority towns as far south as Pyay to keep a few Kachin NortheasnMym/iktoKahMyn
Kachin State Cultural

blouses on hand so that Bamar women could wear them while posing
Museum, Bhamo (p000
for photographs. Northeasn
) and with a permit

Myanmr/itkoKhBam
Putao (p000).
Kayah NortheasnMym/TFNorthPua
Also known as the Karenni or Red Karen, the Kayah are settled in the
mountainous isolation of Kayah State an area completely closed off
to travellers.
As with many of Myanmars ethnic groups that traditionally practised
animism, the Kayah were targeted for conversion to Christianity by
Baptist and Catholic missionaries during the colonial period. The name
54 T H E C U LT U R E E t h n i c i t y www.lonelyplanet.com
Red Karen refers to the favoured colour of the Kayah traditional dress,
and the fact that their apparel resembles that of some Kayin (Karen)
tribes a resemblance that caused the Kayah to be classified by colonis-
ers and missionaries as Karen. Today the Kayah make up a very small
percentage of the population of Myanmar perhaps less than 1% and
the vast majority lead agrarian lives within Kayah State, much as their
ancestors have done for centuries. A significant number of Kayah also
live in Thailands Mae Hong Son Province.
Kayin
The Kayin (also known as Karen) are a large and diverse group, divided
into numerous subgroups. They were originally animists, but some Kayin
villages were heavily targeted by Christian missionaries in the 19th and
early 20th centuries, while other villages converted to Buddhism.
The Kayin are an independent-minded people but the sheer diversity
of the many Kayin subgroups has made it impossible for them to achieve
any real cohesion for achieving greater political power. To this day Bud-
dhist Kayin often side with the Buddhist Bamar against their Christian
Kayin kin. The recruitment of child soldiers for rebel groups is not un-
Presently the only place
common in this neck of the woods. This came to the worlds attention
in Kayin State that travel-
most recently when a Christian Kayin group calling itself Gods Army
lers can visit is Hpa-an
made headlines with its brief armed struggle against the Myanmar gov-
(p000).
SoutheasrnMym/KiSteHpa-n
ernment. The group was led by young twin brothers who reputedly had
magical powers and took up arms when they were only nine years old.
The typical dress of both the Kayin men and women is a longyi with
horizontal stripes (a pattern that is reserved exclusively for women in
other ethnic groups). The Kayin are thought to make up about 7% of the
total population of Myanmar.
Mon
The Mon (also called the Tailing by Western historians) were one of the
earliest inhabitants of Myanmar and their rule stretched into what is
now Thailand. As happened with the Cham in Vietnam and the Phuan
in Laos, the Mon were gradually conquered by neighbouring kingdoms
and their influence waned until they were practically unknown outside
present-day Myanmar. As in Thailand, which also has a Mon minority,
the Mon have almost completely assimilated with the Bamar and in most
ways seem indistinguishable from them. In the precolonial era past, Mon
Buddhist sites including Yangons Shwedagon Paya were appropriated
by the Bamar (though the Golden Rock is still in Mon State), and Mon
tastes in art and architecture were borrowed as well. Today the Mon make
up just over 2% of the population of Myanmar, but Mon art and culture
have influenced that of the Bamar quite thoroughly, as a trip to the Mon
Cultural Museum (p000) in Mawlamyine will attest.
SoutheasrnMym/Stawline(mou)/Sghts&AcvieMonCulrasm
It is only possible to visit

the Naga during their Naga
New Year celebrations The Naga are mainly settled in a mountainous region of eastern India
in January, held near known as Nagaland, but significant numbers live in the western Sagaing
Khamti, by taking a costly Division between the Indian border and the Chindwin River.
government-sponsored When the British arrived in the mid-19th century, the Naga were a
tour (p000). Informati/ TusInformati
fragmented but fearsome collection of tribes. Headhunting was a tradi-
tion among them and for many decades they resisted British rule, though
a lack of cooperation between the tribes hindered their efforts to remain
independent. A turnaround came about during WWI when the British
recruited nearly 17,000 Naga to fight in Europe. The unexpected result
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E E t h n i c i t y 55
of this experiment was a feeling of unity among the many Naga tribes,
which led to an organised Naga independence movement.
The Naga sport one of the worlds most exotic traditional costumes.
Naga men at festival time wear striking ceremonial headdresses made
up of feathers, tufts of hair and cowry shells, and carry wicked spears,
giving them a look that somehow seems vaguely African, Polynesian and
Amazonian like some fantasy ensemble cooked up by Hollywood.
Rakhaing
The Rakhaing (formerly called Arakanese), who make up about 4% of the
population of Myanmar, are principally adherents of Buddhism. Their Besides the ruins at
ancient capital was centred at Mrauk U in what is now the northern Mrauk U (p000), the WestrnMyam/NohRkingMrauU/Sts
Rakhaing State, which borders Bangladesh. Their language is akin to most visible vestige of
Bamar but, due to their geographical location, they have absorbed a fair the Rakhaings illustrious
amount of culture from the Indian subcontinent. In the eyes of most past is the Mahamuni
Bamar, the Rakhaing are a Creole race a mixture of Bamar and Indian Buddha image (p000), Sights/MandlyBuimge
a perception that Buddhist Rakhaing strongly resent. now in Mandalay. Sittwe

Rakhaing State also has a minority population of Muslim Rakhaing, is home to a Rakhaing
who refer to themselves as Rohingya. State Culture Museum
The Rakhaing are skilled weavers and are known in Myanmar for their (p000).WestrnMyam/NohRkingStwes/ah CultrMsem
eye-catching and intricately patterned longyi.
Shan
The Shan call themselves Tai (Shan is actually a Bamar word derived
from the word Siam). The name they call themselves is significant, as
the Shan are related ethnically, culturally and linguistically to Tai peoples
in neighbouring Thailand, Laos and Chinas Yunnan Province. In fact, if
youve spent some time in northern Thailand or Laos and learned some
of the respective languages, youll find you can have a basic conversation
with the Shan. The Shan are also Theravada Buddhists and at one time
they fought the Bamar for control of Myanmar. Today they make up
about 9% of the population.
Traditionally, the Shan wore baggy trousers and floppy, wide-brimmed
sun hats, and the men were known for their faith in talismanic tattoos.
Nowadays Shan town-dwellers commonly dress in the Bamar longyi and
are mostly indistinguishable from the Bamar, except on festival occasions
when they proudly sport their ethnic costumes.
In former times the Shan were ruled by local lords or chieftains called
sao pha (sky lords), a word that was corrupted by the Bamar to saw-
Many parts of Shan State
bwa.
(Myanmars largest) are
The Shan are said to be very fond of gambling and festivals, and Shan
restricted to travellers,
women are admired throughout Myanmar for their beauty and light
but its possible to get
complexions.
to many areas, including
around Inle Lake (p000
Wa NortheasnMym/Il
), Kengtung (p000) and

During British-colonial times the Wa (who come from the still-remote Lake NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasntg
Hsipaw (p000).
northeastern hills of Shan State) were hated and feared. The British dis- NortheasnMym/PiULwtoashHp
tinguished two groups of Wa according to how receptive they were to

the colonisers attempts to control them. The Wild Wa were headhunt-
ers, and decorated their villages with the severed heads of vanquished
enemies to propitiate the spirits that guarded over their opium fields.
(Apparently they only stopped the practice in the 1970s!) The so-called
Tame Wa allowed the colonisers to pass through their territory unim-
peded, yet the area inhabited by the Wa east of the upper Thanlwin
(Salween) River in northern Shan State was never completely pacified
56 T H E C U LT U R E M e d i a www.lonelyplanet.com
by the British. Nowadays rumours abound of the 20,000-strong United

Wa State Army, led by Bao Youxiang (aka Chairman Bao); an army sup-
With a guide, you can posedly highly militarised producers of opium and methamphetamine.
visit Wa villages outside They often make headlines in neighbouring Thailand due to frequent
Kengtung (p000).NortheasnMym/Kgu&BordeAasnKgtu
border skirmishes with Thai military and police forces.
MEDIA
Though media sources have proliferatedin recent years 15 new domes-
tic journals and papers in the first few years of this century very little
objective hard news gets splashed on their pages. Much of Myanmar, for
example, learned about the ousting of their prime minister Khin Nyunt in
2004 via international TV channels or the BBC website. You can get the
flavour of medias (enforced) censorship from the pages of the govern-
ments voice piece in English, the New Light of Myanmar, whose repertoire
includes anti-West poems. Theres also an agenda in place where even the
slightest of strayers get arrested. Apparently novelists cant use the name
Suu in books because ofits association with Aung San Suu Kyi. When
Nelson Mandela won the Nobel Peace Prize in 1993, the story was cen-
sored because the prize could be associated with Aung San Suu Kyi.
In 1999 documentary filmmakers Aung Pwint and Thaung Tun were
arrested for videotaping grim details of everyday life, including footage
of forced labour. They remain in prison. In 2003 troubles arose from a
football article on a team fined for not appearing in a tournament! Loose
links between the fine and the government, plus questions surrounding
the governments handling of US$4 million from an international grant
to foster football programs, was enough to land the four writers in jail,
one of whom briefly faced a death sentence.
The 9.15pm national news broadcast nightly is read by a no-smiles
woman (often sporting a 1968 beehive do) in front of a mural of a power
plant. She mostly gives national news on the governments achievements.
Some locals get their news from fascinating grainy newsreels that precede
all cinema showings, which show General Than Shwe overseeing new
construction projects.
RELIGION
About 87% of the people of Myanmar are Buddhist. Locals are proud of
their religion and keen to discuss it. Knowing a little about it is a prerequi-
site for outsiders wishing to better understand the Burmese mind. During
HOW MANY DID YOU SAY?

The Myanmar people may seem, to outsiders, to have an imaginative understanding of maths.
We had a resident of Mrauk U tell us, in all earnestness, the local area had six million temples; a
Sittwe resident insisted the largest minority group in the city of 150,000 were the 800,000 Mus-
lims, and a trishaw driver in Mandalay suggested that to start a guesthouse youd need after
spending several minutes tabbing it up by pen and paper about US$400 million. Minimum.
Locals count 4000 islands in the Mergui Archipelago, while detailed British surveyors found only
804. Historical accounts include hundreds of thousands of soldiers marching to battle; numbers
often contradictory to later British accounts. The age of the antique youre holding is often
wildly, um, optimistic too.
Nothing to fuss over, though. Locals are more accustomed to counting with the lakh (equal to
100,000) than a million, so its possible a zero or two gets added there. Also, Myanmars largest bill
is just K1000 (worth about US$1.05 at research time), and many people are happy to earn K3000
a day. For nearly everyone, US$40,000 is about as likely to fall into their laps as US$400 million.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E R e l i g i o n 57
the U Nu period, Buddhism functioned as a state religion of sorts as

embodied in such catch phrases as the Socialist Way to Nibbana. Nowa-
days there is complete freedom of religion, though within the government
Buddhists tend to attain higher rank more easily than non-Buddhists.
Buddhism in Myanmar
EARLY HISTORY
The Mon were the first people in Myanmar to practise Theravada Bud-
dhism. King Asoka, the great Indian emperor, is known to have sent mis-
sions here (known then as the Golden Land) during the 3rd century BC.
A second wave is thought to have arrived via Sinhalese missionaries from
present-day Sri Lanka, sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries.
By the 9th century the Pyu of northern Myanmar were combining
Theravada with elements of Mahayana and Tantric Buddhism brought
from their homelands in the Tibetan Plateau. During the early Bagan
era (11th century), Bamar king Anawrahta decided that the Buddhism
practised in his realm should be purified from all non-Theravada ele-
ments, a task he set for Mon monks captured by his armies in Thaton,
in southern Myanmar. However, Buddhism here has never completely
shed Tantric, Hindu and animist elements, but remains predominately
Theravada (only 1% of the Buddhists, most of whom are of Chinese
descent, practise Mahayana Buddhism today).
THERAVADA & MAHAYANA

Theravada Buddhism (also followed in Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka and
Thailand) differs from Hinduism, Judaism, Islam or Christianity in that
it is not centred around a god or gods, but rather a psycho-philosophical
system. Today it covers a wide range of interpretations of the basic beliefs,
which all start from the enlightenment of Siddhartha Gautama, a prince-
turned-ascetic, and referred to as the Buddha, in northern India around
2500 years ago.
Neither the Buddha (which means The Enlightened) nor his im-
mediate pupils ever wrote the dhamma (Buddhist teachings) down, so
after Gautamas death a schism developed and today there are two major
schools of Buddhism. The Theravada (Doctrine of the Elders) school
holds that to achieve nibbana (nirvana), the eventual aim of every Bud-
dhist, you must work out your own salvation with diligence. In other
words, it is up to each individual to work out their own fate.
The Mahayana (Large Vehicle) school holds that individuals should
forego the experience of nibbana until all humankind is ready for salva-
tion. The goal is to become a Bodhisattva (Buddha-to-be), rather than a
fully enlightened Buddha.
The Mahayana school does not reject the other school, but claims it
has extended it. The Theravadins, on the other hand, see Mahayana as Many visitors come to
a misinterpretation of the Buddhas original teachings. Of the two, the Myanmar to meditate;
Theravada is more austere and ascetic, and, some might say, harder to see p000 for a list of
Directoy/CusMdan
practise. monasteries.
TENETS
Buddha taught that the world is primarily characterised by dukkha (un-
satisfactoriness), anicca (impermanence) and anatta (insubstantiality),
and that even our happiest moments in life are only temporary, empty
and unsatisfactory.
The ultrapragmatic Buddhist perception of cause and effect kamma
in Pali, karma in Sanskrit, kan in Burmese holds that birth inevitably
58 T H E C U LT U R E R e l i g i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
leads to sickness, old age and death, hence every life is insecure and sub-
ject to dukkha. Through rebirth, the cycle of thanthaya (samsara in Pali)
repeats itself endlessly as long as ignorance and craving remain.
Only by reaching a state of complete wisdom and nondesire can one
attain true happiness. To achieve wisdom and eliminate craving one must
turn inward and master ones own mind through meditation, most com-
monly known to the Burmese as bhavana or kammahtan.
The Buddha taught four noble truths:
1 Life is dukkha.
2 Dukkha comes from tanha (selfish desire).
3 When one forsakes selfish desire, suffering will be extinguished.
4 The eightfold path is the way to eliminate selfish desire.
The eightfold path is divided into three stages: sila (morality), samadhi
(concentration), and paa (wisdom and insight). It consists of:
1 Right thought
2 Right understanding
3 Right speech
4 Right action
5 Right livelihood
6 Right exertion
7 Right attentiveness
8 Right concentration
Devout Buddhists in Myanmar adhere to five lay precepts, or moral rules

(thila in Burmese, sila in Pali), which require abstinence from killing,
At many stupas, worship- stealing, unchastity (usually interpreted among laypeople as adultery),
pers pour one glassful of lying and intoxicating substances.
water for every year of In spite of Buddhisms obviously profound truths, the most common
their age (plus one) over Myanmar approach is to try for a better future life by feeding monks,
the Buddha image to giving donations to temples and performing regular worship at the local
ensure long life. paya (Buddhist monument). For the average person, everything revolves
around the kutho (merit), from the Pali kusala (wholesome), one is able
to accumulate through such deeds.
MONKS & NUNS

There are as many as 500,000 monks in Myanmar. Socially, every Myan-
mar male is expected to take up temporary monastic residence twice in
his life: once as a samanera (novice monk) between the ages of 10 and
20 and again as a hpongyi (fully ordained monk) sometime after the age
of 20. Almost all men or boys aged under 20 participate in the shinpyu
(novitiation ceremony) quite a common event since a family earns great
merit when one of its sons takes robe and bowl.
All things possessed by a monk must be offered by the lay community.
Upon ordination a new monk is typically offered a set of three robes
(lower, inner and outer). Bright red robes are usually reserved for novices
under 15, darker colours for older, fully ordained monks. Other posses-
sions a monk is permitted include a razor, a cup, a filter (for keeping
insects out of drinking water), an umbrella and an alms bowl.
In Myanmar, women who live the monastic life as dasasila (10-pre-
cept nuns) are often called thilashin (possessor of morality) in Burmese.
Myanmar nuns shave their heads, wear pink robes, and take vows in an
ordination procedure similar to that undergone by monks. Generally
speaking, nunhood isnt considered as prestigious as monkhood. This
is mainly because nuns generally dont perform ceremonies on behalf of
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E R e l i g i o n 59
NUMBER NINE, NUMBER NINE

Myanmar astrology, based on the Indian system of naming the zodiacal planets for Hindu deities,
continues to be an important factor deciding proper dates for weddings, funerals, ordinations
and other events. Burma became independent at 4.20am on 4 January 1948, per U Nus counsel
with an astrologer. Numerology plays a similar role in Myanmar.
Nearly everyone in Myanmar reveres the number nine, which is thought to have an in-
herent mystic significance. The Burmese word ko (nine) also means to seek protection from
the gods. General Ne Win, too, was fascinated with numerology, especially that relating to
the cabalistic ritual Paya-kozu (Nine Gods). He replaced common currency with 45-kyat and
90-kyat notes, because their digits sum equalled nine. It is considered no accident that the
prodemocracy marches were staged on 8 August 1988 (8-8-88); for many, eight is considered
an unlucky number.
laypeople, and keep only 10 precepts the same number observed by

male novices.
MONASTERIES
Monastic communities are called kyaungtaik, hpongyi-kyaung, or simply
kyaung for short. There are over 50,000 in Myanmar. The most impor-
tant structure on the monastery grounds is the thein (a consecrated hall
where monastic ordinations are held). Kyaung may also be associated
with one or more zedi or pahto (temple). An open-sided resthouse or
zayat may be available for gatherings of laypeople during festivals or
pilgrimages.
RECOMMENDED READING
Some of the following books are available in Yangon:
Essential Themes of Buddhist Lectures Given by Ashin Thittila, Depart-
ment of Religious Affairs (DRA), Yangon
The Initiation of Novicehood and the Ordination of Monkhood in the
Burmese Buddhist Culture by Sao Htun Hmat Win, DRA, Yangon
Religion and Legitimation of Power in Thailand, Laos, Burma, edited
by Bardwell L Smith
Things as They Are, by Maha Boowa Nyanasampanno I worship Buddha, but
I make friends with
A few online sources: the nat
Access to Insight (www.accesstoinsight.org/index.html) PAKOKKU LOCAL
Barre Center for Buddhist Studies (www.dharma.org/bcbs.htm)

Buddha Net (www.buddhanet.org)
DharmaNet International (www.dharmanet.org)
THE 37 NAT
One of the great things about Myanmar is the ongoing worship of the
nat (spirit) a link to the pre-Buddhism era when animism (associated
with hills, trees, lakes) held undisputed dominion over the land. Though
some Buddhist leaders downgrade the nat, the nat are very much alive
in the lives of the people of Myanmar.
History
The powerful nat of Myanmar has evolved into a spirit that may hold
dominion over a place (natural or human-made), person, or field of expe-
rience. Orthographically, the written Burmese word nat is likely derived
from the Pali-Sanskrit natha (lord or guardian).
60 T H E C U LT U R E R e l i g i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
Separate, larger shrines were built for a higher class of nat, descended
from actual historic personages (including previous Thai and Bamar
kings) who had died violent, unjust deaths. These suprahuman nat, when
correctly propitiated, could aid worshippers in accomplishing important
tasks, vanquishing enemies and so on.
In Bagan, King Anawrahta stopped animal sacrifices (part of nat wor-
ship at Mt Popa) and destroyed nat temples. Undeterred, many of his
subjects simply rebuilt nat shrines in their homes. Realising he may lose
the case for making Theravada Buddhism the national faith, Anawrahta
wisely conceded the nats coexistence with Buddha. He himself led the
way by placing images of the 36 nat from Mt Popa at the base of the
sacred zedi of Shwezigon.
To these universally recognised 36, Anawrahta sagely added a 37th,
Thagyamin, a Hindu deity based on Indra, who he crowned king of
Many locals split their the nat. Since, in traditional Buddhist mythology, Indra paid homage
devotion between Bud- to Buddha on behalf of the Hindu pantheon, this theistic insertion ef-
dha and the nat: Buddha fectively made all nat subordinate to Buddhism.
is for their future lives, Anawrahtas scheme worked, and today the commonly believed cos-
and the nat for problems mology places Buddha and his teachings at the top, with the Hindu and
in this life. Bamar nat in second and third place.
Worship & Beliefs

In many homes, you may see the most popular nat in the form of
an unhusked coconut dressed in a red gaung baung (turban), which
represents the dual-nat Eindwin-Min Mahagiri (Lord of the Great
Mountain who is in the House). Another widespread form of nat wor-
ship is exhibited through thered-and-white cloths tied to a rear-view
mirror or hood ornament; these colours are the traditional nat colours
of protection.
Some of the more animistic guardian nat remain outside home and
paya. A tree-spirit shrine, for example, may be erected beneath a par-
ticularly venerated old tree, thought to wield power over the immediate
vicinity. These are especially common beneath larger banyan trees (Ficus
religiosa), as this tree is revered as a symbol of Buddhas enlightenment. A
village may well have a nat shrine in a wooded corner for the propitiation
of the village guardian spirit. Such tree and village shrines are simple,
dollhouselike structures of wood or bamboo; their proper placement is
divined by a local saya (teacher or shaman), trained in spirit lore. Such
knowledge of the complex nat world is fading fast among the younger
generations.
Those with a general fear of nat will avoid eating pork, which is
thought to be offensive to the spirit world. The main fear is not simply
that spirits will wreak havoc on your daily affairs, but rather that one
may enter your mind and body, and then force you to perform uncon-
scionable acts in public acts that would cause others to shun you. Spirit
possession whether psychologically induced or metaphysical is a
phenomenon that is real in the eyes of the people of Myanmar.
Nat Festivals
On certain occasions, the nat cult goes behind simple propitiation of
the spirits (via offerings) and steps into the realm of spirit invocation.
Most commonly, this is accomplished through nat pwe (spirit festivals),
special musical performances designed to attract nat to the perform-
ance venue. Nearly all indigenous Burmese music is designed for this
purpose.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E W o m e n i n M y a n m a r 61
The nat like loud and colourful music, so musicians at a nat pwe bang
away at full volume on their gongs, drums and xylophones, producing
what sounds like some ancient form of rock and roll.
To lure a nat to a loud
Every nat pwe is accompanied by a risk that the invited spirit may
pwe takes the work
choose to enter, not the body of the medium, but one of the spectators.
of a spirit medium, or
One of the most commonly summoned spirits at nat pwe is Ko Gyi
nat-gadaw (nat wife),
Kyaw (Big Brother Kyaw), a drunkard nat who responds to offerings of
who is either a woman or
liquor imbibed by the nat-gadaw. When he enters someones body, hes
a male transvestite who
given to lascivious dancing, so a chance possession by Ko Gyi Kyaw is
sings and dances to invite
especially embarrassing.
specific nat to possess
Once possessed by a nat, the only way one can be sure the spirit wont
them.
return again and again is to employ the services of an older Buddhist
monk skilled at exorcism a process that can take days, if not weeks.
Without undergoing such a procedure, anyone who has been spirit-
possessed may carry the nat stigma the rest of their lives. Girls who
have been so entered are considered unmarriageable unless satisfactorily
exorcised.
Though nat pwe are commonly held with festivals throughout Bamar
Myanmar, the grandest of all occur during the annual nat festival in
Taungbyone, about 20km north of Mandalay. Held each August (more
specifically for six days up to and including the full moon of Wagaung,
the fifth lunar month) since Anawrahtas reign, the Taungbyone festival
honours the so-called Muslim Brothers, Byat-wi and Byat-ta, two of
the most famous nat from the Bagan era. Another nat festival, rather
smaller than the one at Taungbyone, follows immediately afterwards at
Yadana-gu, a paya south of Amarapura. This one revolves around the
ritual bathing of nat images on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River; many
festival-goers arrive here by sampan from Amarapura.
Other Religions
Among the non-Buddhist people of Myanmar, 1% are animist, 4% Chris-
tian, 4% Muslim and 1.5% Hindu. Most Muslims and Hindus, as well
as many Christians, are of Indian descent and live in the larger towns
and cities.
Most other Christians in Myanmar are found among the tribal mi-
norities, though the majority of the tribal people remain animist. Baptist,
Catholic and Anglican missionaries have been active in Myanmar for
over 150 years. Ethnic groups that traditionally practised animism were
more receptive to conversion, especially the Kayin, Kachin and Chin.
Myanmar had 2500 Jews before the wake of nationalism encouraged
most to leave; today Myanmar has only about 50 Jews; the best Jewish site
to visit is Yangons 19th-century Moseah Yeshua Synagogue (p000). Yango/SihtsOerPy,Tmpl&Sins/Moeah
With such religious diversity, its not surprising that there is sometimes
friction between religious groups. In October 2001, riots between Bud-
dhists and Muslims caused the government to impose temporary curfews
in Taungoo and Pyay. Many Muslims endure restrictions on their ability
to travel, and often can stay only at family homes, not hotels.
WOMEN IN MYANMAR
In most respects Myanmar women enjoy legal rights equal to those of
Myanmar men; for example, they own property and arent barred from
any profession. Unlike in the West, females do not traditionally change
any portion of their names upon marriage; in the event of divorce, they
are legally entitled to half of all property accumulated during the mar-
riage. Inheritance rights are also equally shared. Aung San Suu Kyi wrote
62 T H E C U LT U R E A r t s www.lonelyplanet.com
MYANMAR BEAUTY SECRETS

Women rarely touch alcohol or cigarettes; the cheroots puffed by country women are mild.
High humidity helps, as sweating keeps the pores active and flushed.
Most locals wash with cold water (often straight from the river) two or three times daily with
unscented soap.
Thanakha paste is a combination of moisturiser, sunscreen and perfume thats smeared on
the face (some women apply it to their whole bodies at night); its made from the ground
bark of the thanakha tree.
Plumpness is a sign of health; to say wa-laiq-ta! (how fat youre looking!) is quite a compliment!
that a baby girl is equally celebrated as a baby boy, as theyre believed to

be more dutiful and loving than sons. Girls are educated alongside boys
and, by university age, women outnumber men in university and college
enrolment. Most white-collar professions grant women a paid maternity
The literacy rate for men
leave of six weeks before birth and one or two months afterwards.
is 88%; for women it
Religion is one arena in which women perpetually take a back seat,
is 78%.
though. Any man is seen as possessing the potential, regardless of de-
sire, of becoming a Buddha; women cannot. A small number of Bud-
dhist shrines, for example Mandalays Mahamuni Paya, have small areas
around the main holy image that are off-limits to women. Many people
in Myanmar women as well as men believe the birth of a female in-
dicates less religious merit than the birth of a male, and that it is easier
for males to attain nibbana. A small but devoted minority of men and
women refute this view, pointing out that the actual suttas, or sayings of
the Buddha, do not support this assumption.
Just as boys between the ages of five and 15 usually undergo a pre-
puberty initiation as temporary novice monks, girls around the same
age participate in an initiatory ear-piercing ceremony (often called ear-
boring in Burmese English). Some also become temporary nuns at this
age.
Saw Myat Yin, the insightful author of Culture Shock! Burma, expresses
a viewpoint common among the majority of Myanmar women, who see
their role as equal but supportive and complementaryrather than in
competition and that if they accept a role a step behind their menfolk
they do so freely and willingly.
ARTS
Dance & Theatre
Myanmars truly indigenous dance forms are those that pay homage
to the nat. In special nat pwe, one or more nat is invited to possess the
body and mind of a medium; sometimes members of the audience are
possessed instead, an event greatly feared by most locals.
As with music, most of Myanmars classical dance styles arrived from
Thailand. Today the dances most obviously taken from Thailand are
known as yodaya zat (Ayuthaya theatre), as taught to the Burmese by
Thai theatrical artists taken captive in the 18th century.
The most Myanmar of dances feature solo performances by female
dancers who wear strikingly colourful dresses with long white trains,
which they kick into the air with their heels quite a feat, given the
restrictive length of the train.
A zat pwe involves a re-creation of an ancient legend or Buddhist
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 63
Jataka (life story of the Buddha) while the yamazat picks a tale from the
Indian epic Ramayana.
Classical dance-drama is occasionally performed at the National Thea- Myanmar dance scholars
tre in Yangon (p000), where around a dozen amateur theatre groups regu-
Yango/EterimNalTh
have catalogued around
larly practise and perform yamazat. In Mandalay, yamazat performers 2000 dance movements,
even have their own shrine. Since Myanmar classical dancing emphasises including 13 head
pose rather than movement, and solo rather than ensemble perform- movements, 28 eye
ances, it can soon become a little boring for TV-hyped Western tastes. movements, nine neck
By contrast the less common, but livelier, yein pwe features singing and movements, 24 ways of
dancing performed by a chorus or ensemble. moving only one hand
Most popular of all is the a-nyeint pwe, a traditional-variety pwe some- and 23 using both hands,
what akin to early American vaudeville (see p000 for a description).
Enteraim/ MoustacheBr
38 leg movements, eight
body postures and 10
Marionette Theatre walking movements.
Youq-the pwe (Myanmar marionette theatre) presents colourful puppets
up to a metre high in a spectacle that many aesthetes consider the most
expressive of all the Myanmar arts. Developed during the Konbaung pe-
riod, it was so influential that it became the forerunner to zat pwe as later
performed by actors rather than marionettes. As with dance-drama, the
genres golden age began with the Mandalay kingdoms of the late 18th
century and ran through to the advent of cinema in the 1930s.
The people of Myanmar have great respect for an expert puppeteer.
Some marionettes may be manipulated by a dozen or more strings; cer-
tain nat may sport up to 60 strings, including one for each eyebrow. The
marionette masters standard repertoire requires a troupe of 28 puppets
including Thagyamin (king of the gods); a Myanmar king, queen, prince
and princess; a regent; two court pages; an old man and an old woman; a
villain; a hermit; four ministers; two clowns; one good and one evil nat; a
Brahmin astrologer; two ogres; a zawgyi (alchemist); a horse; a monkey;
a makara (mythical sea serpent); and an elephant.
These days its rare to see marionette theatre outside tourist venues in
Yangon, Mandalay or Bagan.
Music
Much of classical Myanmar music, played loud like the nat like it, features
strongly in any pwe, and its repetitive, even harsh, harmonies can be hard
on Western ears at first. This harshness likely comes from the fact that
Myanmar scales are not tempered as Western scales have been since
Bach. Traditional Myanmar music is primarily two dimensional in the
sense that rhythm and melody provide much of the musical structure,
while repetition is a key element in developing this structure. Subtle shifts
in rhythm and tonality provide the modulation usually supplied by the
harmonic dimension in Western music.
CLASSICAL MUSIC
The original inspiration for much of Myanmars current musical tradi-
tion came from Thailand (then Siam) during the reign of King Hsinby-
ushin, particularly after the second conquest of Thailand in 1767 when
musicians and dancers were brought to Myanmar to effect cultural aug-
mentation. Interestingly, the Thais had acquired these styles themselves
from Cambodian musicians after conquering Angkor centuries earlier.
Myanmar classical music as played today was codified by Po Sein, a
colonial-era musician, composer and drummer who also designed the
hsaing waing (the circle of tuned drums, also known as paq waing) and
formalised classical dancing styles. Such music is meant to be played as
TRADITIONAL BURMESE MUSIC CDS

These music CDs can generally be found outside Myanmar:
Mahagita, Harp & Vocal Music from Burma (2003; Smithsonian Folkways)
Green Tea Leaf Salad, Flavors of Burmese Music (2001; Pan Records)
White Elephants & Golden Ducks, Musical Treasures from Burma (1997; Shanachie)
Pat Waing, The Magic Drum Circle of Burma (1998; Shanachie)
U Ko Ko, Performs on the Burmese Piano (1995; Ummus)
an accompaniment to classical dance-dramas that enact scenes from the

Jataka or from the Ramayana.
Musical instruments are predominantly percussive, but even the hsaing
waing may carry the melody. These drums are tuned by placing a wad of
paq-sa (drum food) made from a kneaded paste of rice and wood-ash
onto the centre of the drum head, then adding or subtracting a pinch
At the National Museum at a time till the desired drum tone is attained.
in Yangon (p101) you can In addition to the hsaing waing, the traditional hsaing (Myanmar
view an exhibit of Bur- ensemble) of seven to 10 musicians will usually play: the kye-waing (a
mese traditional music circle of tuned brass gongs); the saung gauq (a boat-shaped harp with
13 strings); the pattala (a sort of xylophone); the hneh (an oboe-type
instrument related to the Indian shanai); the pa-lwe (a bamboo flute);
the mi-gyaung (crocodile lute); the paq-ma (a bass drum); and the yagwin
(small cymbals) and wa-leq-hkouq (bamboo clappers), which are purely
rhythmic and are often played by Myanmar vocalists.
FOLK
Older than Myanmar classical music is an enchanting vocal folk-music
tradition still heard in rural areas where locals may sing without instru-
mental accompaniment while working. Such folk songs set the work
cadence and provide a distraction from the physical strain and monotony
of pounding rice, clearing fields, weaving and so on. Youll hear this type
of music most readily in the Ayeyarwady Delta between Twante and
Pathein.
ROCK & RAP

Modern music has taken off in Myanmar in recent years, with a host
of rap and rock bands influenced with the introduction of MTV Asia.
Western musics influence first came in the 1970s, actually, when sing-
ers such as Min Min Latt and Takatho Tun Naung sang shocking things
such as Beatles cover versions or Tie a Yellow Ribbon around the Old
Oak Tree. This led to long-haired, distorted-guitar rock bands such as
Empire and Iron Cross in the 1980s. Iron Cross still makes a huge impact,
as does the band Lazy Club, which you may see on videotapes in teashops
or aboard all-night buses.
Bands such as these (all of whom sing in Burmese, even if they have
English names) have a stable of half a dozen singers who share the stage
with the same backing band. Iron Cross, for example, features one of
Myanmars wilder singers, Lay Phyu, whose recent Butterfly album has
him done up like the insect. Then Iron Cross also tones it down as a
backing band for the poppier stuff of other singers. One local aficionado
explained: Theres no competition between a bands many singers. They
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E A r t s 65
ROCK & RAP CDS

These are five highlights, generally only found (for K1200 or K1500) in Myanmar. (Sincere regrets
go to the one-time Rakhaing band Evil Elf, who sadly never recorded.)
Lay Phyu & Iron Cross, Butterfly (2003) Myanmars most popular rock singer
Ah Nge & Iron Cross, Khu Hnit Tway Ah Ka (2003) Iron Cross number two (a little more
talented than Mr Lay, actually)
Myanmar Future Generations Free-download album (www.mm-fg.net) of 11 politically
charged rap tracks (and counting)
The Ants, Colourful Chocolate (1998) Alternative-rock trio from Shan State
Big Bag, Dont Talk About Punk (2004) Includes cover of Green Days Longview, in Burmese
Myo Kyawt Myaing, The Troubles of Being Human (2004) Rap pioneer, features My Name is
Myo Kyawt Myaing
help each other. Our rock singers dont throw TVs out the windows. On
stage they jump around and all, but offstage theyre very good natured.
All lyrics must pass the
Sone Thin Par and actress Htu Eindra Bo are female singers who win
governments censor
fans for their melodies and looks.
board. In 1998 blues
Rap is the latest trend, with Min Min Latts son, Anega, now busting
singer Nyi Pu had to
beats with other big-name rappers Barbu, Myo Kyawt Myaung and (hear
rename his debut Every-
the girls sigh) Sai Sai. Songs often deal with gossip, or troubles between
things Going to Be Good
parents and kids. One rap band, 9mm, was briefly detained in 2004
to Everythings Good;
for performing political songs written by an anonymous prodemocracy
a few years later, Iron
group of exiled and local rappers called Myanmar Future Generations
Cross Myo Gyi changed
(MFG).
his Very Wild Wind album
A famed exiled singer, Mun Awng (a Kachin singer) has recorded
to a tamer Breeze.
political songs, including his Battle for Peace album, which is available
through the underground only.
Look out for posters advertising shows. Yangons Strand Hotel and
Mya Yeik Nyo Hotel are popular venues. You might bump into one of
Myanmars more popular musicians at Yangons Mr Guitar Cafe (p000 Yango/DrikBsM
).
Guitar
Architecture
It is in architecture that one sees the strongest evidence of Myanmar artis-
tic skill and accomplishment. Myanmar is a country of zedis, often called
pagodas in English. Wherever you are boating down the river, driving
through the hills, even flying above the plains there always seems to be
a hilltop zedi in view. It is in Bagan (p000) that you see the most dramatic
TemplsofBagn
results of this national enthusiasm for religious monuments.
PAYA, ZEDI OR PAHTO?

The paya (pa-yah), the most common Myanmar equivalent to the often-
misleading English term pagoda, literally means holy one and can refer
to people, deities and places associated with religion. Often its a generic
term covering a stupa, temple or shrine. There are basically two kinds
of paya: the solid, bell-shaped zedi and the hollow square or rectangular
pahto. A zedi or stupa is usually thought to contain relics either objects
taken from the Buddha himself (especially pieces of bone, teeth or hair)
or certain holy materials. Both zedi and pahto are often associated with
kyaung (Buddhist monasteries).
The term pahto is sometimes translated as temple, though shrine
would perhaps be more accurate as priests or monks are not necessarily in

attendance. The so-called Mon-style pahto is a large cube with small win-
dows and ground-level passageways; this type is also known as a gu or ku
(from the Pali-Sanskrit guha; cave). The overall Bamar concept is similar
to that of the Mayan and Aztec pyramids of Mesoamerica: worshippers
climb a symbolic mountain lined with religious reliefs and frescoes.
High above you in a zedi If all this seems too confusing, just remember that the generic Myan-
you can hear the wind mar term for all these structures is paya. The famous Mon zedi in Yangon
bells tinkling from the is called Shwedagon Paya (p000), and Bagans greatest pahto is often called Yango /Si hts wed P ya
hti, the decorative metal Ananda Paya (p000). TemplsofBagn/NrthPiAdo
umbrella that tops the

structure. ZEDI STYLES
Early zedi were usually hemispherical (the Kaunghmudaw at Sagaing
near Mandalay) or bulbous (the Bupaya in Bagan), while the more mod-
ern style is much more graceful a curvaceous lower bell merging into a
soaring spire, such as the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon. Style is not always
a good indicator of a zedis original age as Myanmar is earthquake-prone
and many (including the Shwedagon) have been rebuilt over and again.
Around the base of a zedi people are meditating, strolling around and
chatting. This makes zedi tranquil places to visit.
OTHER BUILDINGS
Traditionally, only the zedi, gu and pahto have been made of permanent
materials; until quite recently all secular buildings and most monas-
teries were constructed of wood, so there are few old ones to be seen.
Even the great palaces were made of wood, and with the destruction of
Mandalay Palace during WWII there is no remaining wooden Myanmar
palace. A few surviving examples are in Mandalay (p000), Inwa (p000), Sights/ wenadKyug AroundMaly/cietCsInw(av)Sgh
Salay (p000) and near Pakokku (p000).

Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagnSlihtsYqoKyaung Bagn&CetrlMym/AoudBagnPk
Although so little remains of the old wooden architectural skills, there

are still many excellent wooden buildings to be seen. The people of My-
anmar continue to use teak with great skill, and a fine country home can
be a very pleasing structure indeed.
Buildings erected during the British colonial period feature a variety
BUDDHAS HAND SIGNS

Of the hundreds and hundreds of Buddha images youll see in Myanmar, the Buddha will be in
one of four postures: standing, sitting, walking and reclining. The first three are associated with
the daily activities of the Buddha, while the later represents Buddhas dying moments when
he attained parinibbana (ultimate nirvana). Look out for the following hand signs, which have
difference meanings:
Abhaya Both hands are extended forward, palms out, to symbolise Buddhas offer of protection
or freedom from fear.
Bhumispara The right hand touches the ground, which symbolises the point in the Buddhas
life when he sat in meditation beneath the banyan tree and vowed not to budge from the
spot until he gained enlightenment.
Dana One or both hands extended forward with palms up, which symbolises the offering of
dhamma (Buddhist teachings) to the world.
Dhyana Both hands rest palm-up on the Buddhas lap, signifying meditation.
Vitarka or Dhammachakka Thumb and forefinger of one hand forms a circle with other fingers
curving outward (somewhat like an OK gesture), symbolising the first public discourse on
Buddhist doctrine.
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E S p o r t 67
of styles and materials, from the rustic wood-and-plaster Tudor villas of

Pyin U Lwin to the thick-walled, brick-and-plaster, colonnaded mansions
and shop houses of Yangon, Mawlamyine and Myeik. An interesting When royal palaces
example of a fusion of Burmese and European styles is the City Hall ceased to be built,
building in Yangon. Until recently scant attention was paid to preserv- woodcarving skills rapidly
ing colonial architecture for political as well as economic reasons. declined. There has been
Nowadays some are being restored, but many have been demolished and a small renaissance in
replaced by new structures in recent years. recent years, mostly seen
in hotels.
Sculpture & Painting
Early Myanmar art was always a part of the religious architecture paints
were for the walls of temples, sculpture to be placed inside them. Remark-
ably little research has been carried out on Myanmar religious sculpture
other than that from the Bagan and Mandalay eras. Many pieces, for-
merly in paya or kyaung have been sold or stolen. Mandalays Mahamuni
Buddha image, a Rakhaing sculpture, is the countrys most famous image
of any age. Unfortunately, youll easily find more Myanmar religious
sculpture for sale or on display in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, San Francisco
and London than in Myanmar.
In the immediate aftermath of the 1988 demonstrations, the govern-
ment forbade selfish or mad art that didnt have clear progovernment
themes. One artist, Sitt Nyein Aye, spent two months in custody for
sketching the ruins of the former student union, which New Win had
blown up in 1962. Things seem to have relaxed a little, evident in national
galleries though most works are rather predictable tourist-oriented
works. The governments social posters anti-AIDS, antidrugs, or just
progovernment! are interesting pieces of propaganda posted on many
main streets.
Literature
Religious texts inscribed onto Myanmars famous kammawa (lacquered
scriptures) and parabaik (folding manuscripts) were the first pieces of
literature as such, and began appearing in the 12th century. Until the
1800s, the only other works of literature available were royal genealo-
gies, classical poetry and law texts. A Burmese version of the Indian epic
Ramayana was first written in 1775 by poet U Aung Pyo. The first printed
books in the country were produced by missionaries; the American
Baptist Mission was responsible for virtually all publishing until the late
19th century, when the first press owned by a Burmese began printing a
Burmese-language newspaper.
Today the people of Myanmar are great readers, as youll realise from
the piles of books in the street at every night market.
SPORT
Martial Arts
Myanmar has a tradition of kickboxing thats said to date back to the
Bagan era, although the oldest written references are found in chronicles
of warfare between Burma and Thailand during the 15th and 16th cen-
turies. Myanma let-hwei (Myanmar kickboxing) is very similar in style
to muay thai (Thai kickboxing), although not nearly as well developed
as a national sport.
The most common and traditional kickboxing venues are temporary
rings set up at paya pwe rather than sports arenas. However, in recent
years occasional championships are held at Aung San Stadium in Yangon.
Yangons YMCA is a good place to ask about upcoming events.
68 T H E C U LT U R E S p o r t www.lonelyplanet.com
As with Thai boxing, almost anything goes in the ring. All fighters
are bare-fisted. All surfaces of the body are considered fair targets and
any part of the body except the head may be used to strike an opponent.
Common blows include high kicks to the neck, elbow thrusts to the
face and head, knee hooks to the ribs and low crescent kicks to the calf.
Punching is considered the weakest of all blows and kicking merely a
way to soften up ones opponent; knee and elbow strikes are decisive
in most matches.
Competition isnt nearly as formalised in Myanmar as in Thailand; in
fact you probably wont find two people anywhere in the country who
agree on the rules! In the simplest rural matches, fought in a dirt circle,
theres no time limit and a fighter loses once he has wiped blood from his
face or body three times (or gets knocked out cold!). In more organised
amateur matches, boxers fight in square rings (5.8m by 5.5m), for three to
five rounds of three minutes each, usually with two minutes rest between.
Professional matches in larger towns and cities begin with five rounds
but may increase round by round to 12 rounds when the scoring is tight
even longer if no clear winner emerges earlier in the match.
Before the match begins, each boxer performs a dancelike ritual in the
ring to pay homage to Buddha and to Khun Cho and Khun Tha, the nat
whose domain includes Myanmar kickboxing. The winner repeats the
ritual at the end of the match.
Chinlon
Often called cane ball in Burmese English, chinlon refers to games in
which a woven rattan ball about 12cm in diameter is kicked around. It
also refers to the ball itself, which resembles the takraw of Thailand and
Malaysia. Informally any number of players can form a circle and keep
the chinlon airborne by kicking it soccer-style from player to player; a lack
of scoring makes it a favourite pastime with locals of all ages.
In formal play six players stand in a circle of 22ft (6.6m) circumference.
Each player must keep the ball aloft using a succession of 30 techniques
and six surfaces on the foot and leg, allotting five minutes for each part.
Each successful kick scores a point, while points are subtracted for using
the wrong body part or dropping the ball.
A popular variation and the one used in intramural or international
competitions is played with a volleyball net, using all the same rules as
in volleyball except that only the feet and head are permitted to touch
the ball.
69
Environment
THE LAND
A bit bigger than France and slightly smaller than Texas, Myanmar
covers 678,500 sq km, though it sometimes jockeys with neighbouring
Thailand for a hectare or two more along its eastern extremes. Its land From the local
borders with (clockwise from west) Bangladesh, India, Tibet, China, Laos perspective, the 3000km-
and Thailand, covers 5876km, and 1930km of coastline faces the Bay of long Himalaya mountain
Bengal and Andaman Sea. chain begins in Myanmar.
Geographically, Myanmars south is similar to Malaysia, the north to This is true enough, as
northern India or China, and the centre is an overlap of the two each one end of the chain,
producing unique zones manifested in the scenery and creatures that formed when the Indian
hop by it. The area southwest of Yangon is a vast delta region. There and Eurasian tectonic
is a central broad flat heartland, where much of the countrys history plates collided 140 million
was played out and lots of rice is currently grown. This is surrounded years ago, extends to
by protective mountain and hill ranges. Most notable are: the rugged Myanmars northern
Kachin Hills, which serve as the first steps into the Himalaya to the Kachin State.
north; Khakabo Razi, on the Tibetan border, is Southeast Asias highest
mountain at 5889m; and Mt Victoria, west of Bagan in Chin State, which
rises 3053m.
Three major rivers fed by monsoon downpours and melted Hima-
layan snows from Nepal and India cut north to south through the coun-
try. The 2000km-long Ayeyarwady River, one of Asias most navigable big
rivers, feeds much of the countrys rice fields. It connects lower Myanmar
(based around Yangon) with upper Myanmar (around Mandalay). North
of Mandalay, the Chindwin River connects the hills to the north; while
the Thanlwin River leads from China to the Gulf of Mottama through
Myanmars east. Also, the Mekong River passes by on the short border
with Laos.
Politically, the land is divided into seven tain (divisions) and seven pyi
(states) as shown on the map on p51.
WILDLIFE
Myanmars rich wildlife benefits from its diverse habitats brackish wa-
ters and mangrove along the coast, bizarre mixes of tropical forests and
cooler mountain habitats up north. The central plains (the dry zone) are
home to more rice fields than wildlife.
Animals
When Marco Polo wrote about Myanmar in the 13th century, he de-
scribed ...vast jungles teeming with elephants, unicorns and other wild
beasts. Though Myanmars natural biodiversity has no doubt altered
considerably since that time, its difficult to say by just how much. Its
estimated that Myanmar is presently home to 251 mammals, 687 birds,
203 reptiles and 70 amphibians 32 of which are endangered, including
the tiger, two species of rhinoceros and the red panda (see p70).
The most comprehensive wildlife survey available was undertaken by
the Bombay Natural History Society between 1912 and 1921 and pub-
lished as the Mammal Survey of India, Burma and Ceylon. In Myanmar
The Wild Animals of Burma, published in 1967, is the most recent work
available and even this volume simply contains extracts from various
surveys carried out by the British between 1912 and 1941, with a few
observations dating to 1961.
70 E N V I R O N M E N T W i l d l i fe www.lonelyplanet.com
As with Myanmars flora, the variation in Myanmars wildlife is closely

associated with the countrys geographic and climatic differences. Hence
the indigenous fauna of the countrys northern half is mostly of Indo-
Chinese origin while that of the south is generally Sundaic (ie typical of
Malaysia, Sumatra, Borneo and Java). In the Himalayan region north of
the Tropic of Cancer (just north of Lashio), the fauna is similar to that
found in northeastern India. The area extending from around Myitkyina
Possession of a sacred
in the north to the Bago Mountains in the central region is one where
white (albino) elephant
there is overlap between geographical and vegetative zones which
supposedly ensured
means that much of Myanmar is a potential habitat for plants and ani-
Burmese kings a
mals from all three zones.
prosperous reign. In 1885
Distinctive mammals found in dwindling numbers within the more
Burmas last royal white
heavily forested areas of Myanmar include leopards, fishing cats, civets,
elephant died during the
Indian mongooses, crab-eating mongooses, Himalayan bears, Asiatic
reign of King Thibaw.
black bears, Malayan sun bears, gaur (Indian bison), banteng (wild cat-
Shortly thereafter British
tle), serow (an Asiatic mountain goat), wild boars, sambar, barking deer,
colonial forces took over
mouse deer, tapirs, pangolin, gibbons and macaques. Sea mammals in-
the country.
clude dolphins and dugongs.
Some 10,000 Asiatic elephants roughly a third of all those on the planet
are distributed throughout Myanmar. Among these are 6000 working
elephants, most of which are used in logging and agriculture. Its en-
couraging that this number exceeds by a thousand that tallied by English
scholar FT Morehead in his 1944 treatise The Forests of Burma.
Reptiles and amphibians include four sea turtle species along with
numerous snake varieties, of which an astounding 52 are venomous.
These include the common cobra, king cobra (hamadryad), banded krait,
Malayan pit viper, green viper and Russells viper.
Myanmar is rich in birdlife, with an estimated 687 resident and migrat-
ing species. Coastal and inland waterways of the delta and southern pe-
ninsula are especially important habitats for Southeast Asian waterfowl.
One of the best birding spots is at Mt Victoria, which requires taking an
expensive government guide (p329).
ENDANGERED SPECIES
Currently, 32 species are endangered in Myanmar, including the flying
squirrel, tiger, three-striped box turtle and blue whale. The main threats
to the countrys wildlife are deforestation and poaching (see p72 for
more details).
As recently as the mid-1990s, an estimated 2000 tigers (about 40% of
Southeast Asias total, some suggest) were thought to inhabit the primary
forests, but some sources claim that numbers have dropped dramatically
due to poaching and the illicit trade in tiger parts.
Both the one-horned (Javan) rhinoceros and the Asiatic two-horned
(Sumatran) rhinoceros are believed to survive in very small numbers near
the Thai border in Kayin State. The rare red panda (or cat bear) was last
CARING FOR YOUR ELEPHANT

One of my favourite Burmese books is Burmese Timber Elephant by U Toke Gale. It could be sub-
titled selection, care and use of your pet elephant, for it tells you everything you need to know
and many things you dont about timber elephants even what to do when your elephant is in
musth. Theres a chart of 90 nerve centres to use to control an elephant or get it to do things.
But dont press 13, 25, 60, 61 or 63 or the animal will be infuriated!
Tony Wheeler
www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T W i l d l i fe 71
INTRODUCINGTHE LEAF DEER

In the 1990s, the leaf deer a 0.6m-tall tall deer amazed scientists in northern Myanmar just
by existing. Locals called it leaf deer because its so small they could wrap it in a leaf. Geneti-
cally ancient, and considered the most primitive deer species, it offers insight into evolution. The
New Yorkbased Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) was the first to bring the leaf deer to the
attention of the world. The WCS also broke ground by becoming, in 1993, the first international
NGO to work with the junta to set up wildlife reserves in Myanmar in three decades.
sighted in northern Myanmar in the early 1960s but is still thought to

live in Kachin State forests above 2000m.
Plants
As in the rest of tropical Asia, most indigenous vegetation in Myanmar
is associated with two basic types of tropical forest: monsoon forest (with
a distinctive dry season of three months or more) and rainforest (where
rain falls more than nine months per year). Its said there are over 1000
plant species endemic to the country.
Monsoon forests are marked by deciduous tree varieties, which shed
their leaves during the dry season; rainforests are typically evergreen.
The area stretching from Yangon to Myitkyina contains mainly monsoon
forests, while peninsular Myanmar to the south of Mawlamyine is pre-
dominantly a rainforest zone. There is much overlapping of the two some
forest zones support a mix of monsoon forest and rainforest vegetation. Myanmar may possibly
In the mountainous Himalayan region above the Tropic of Cancer, contain more species of
Myanmars flora is characterised by subtropical broadleaf evergreen for- bamboo than any country
est up to 2000m; temperate semi-deciduous broadleaf rainforest from outside China. One pure
2000m to 3000m; and, above 3000m, evergreen coniferous, subalpine stand of bamboo forest in
snow forest and alpine scrub. Rakhaing State extends
Along the Rakhaing and Tanintharyi coasts, tidal forests occur in river over 7770 sq km.
estuaries, lagoons, tidal creeks and along low islands. Such woodlands
are characterised by mangrove and other coastal trees that grow in mud
and are resistant to seawater. Beach and dune forests, which grow along
these same coasts above the high-tide line, consist of palms, hibiscus,
casuarinas and other tree varieties that can withstand high winds and
occasional storm-sent waves.
The countrys most famous flora includes an incredible array of fruit
trees, over 25,000 flowering species, a variety of tropical hardwoods, and
bamboo. Cane and rattan are also plentiful.
RESPONSIBLE ECOLOGICAL TRAVEL TIPS

Here are some simple tips for helping Myanmars environment.
Avoid using nonbiodegradable goods.
If you do use nonbiodegradable items deposit them in rubbish bins in the nearest town.
Make an effort to carry out rubbish left by others.
Never bury your rubbish: digging disturbs soil and ground cover, and encourages erosion.
Buried rubbish will likely be dug up by animals, which may be injured or poisoned by it.
Avoid restaurants serving exotic wildlife species, if you should find them (eg barking deer, bear).
Ask boat drivers not to lower anchors onto coral formations, if on a trip in the vicinity of coral
reefs.
72 E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s www.lonelyplanet.com
Myanmar holds 75% of the worlds reserves of Tectona grandis, bet-

ter known as teak (kyun in Burmese). This dense, long-wearing, highly
prized hardwood is one of Myanmars most important exports, for which
the biggest consumers are China, Singapore and India.
NATIONAL PARKS
By an optimistic account, about 7.2% of Myanmars land area (48,981 sq
Alan Rabinowitzs Beyond km) is made up of national parks and national forests, wildlife sanctu-
the Last Village: A Journey aries and parks and other protected areas. Other accounts estimate the
of Discovery in Asias percentage of protected areas as more like 2.1% (and this tally takes in
Forbidden Wilderness zoos and the like). Regardless, the government has pledged to expand the
(2001) describes the area, much to the credit of the efforts of the New Yorkbased Wildlife
rolled-up-sleeve efforts Conservation Society. In 2004 the government expanded the Hukuang
by himself and the Valley Tiger Reserve (p225) in Kachin State to 8400 sq km (and it may
Wildlife Conservation grow to 12,000 sq km), making it the largest tiger reserve in the world.
Society to set up reserves When set up in 2001, a mere 150 tigers roamed the area; hunting (for the
and parks in Myanmars Chinese market) has been a major cause of the decline.
northern areas. Most of the ecotourist sights touted by the government (ranging
from the zoo in the capital to the worlds largest tiger reserve in Kachin
State) are in remote areas and require special permission to visit. The
most visited national park is Mt Popa (p277), which receives 150,000
Most of Myanmars visitors annually.
protected areas are By one account, Myanmar sports more forest in general than any South
off-limits for travellers. or Southeast Asian country apart from India, and has 75% of the same
See a list of wildlife area of forest as India, despite its much smaller size. That said, only 1.2%
sanctuaries at www of Myanmars forests are protected by one estimate; others have it at
.myanmars.net/travel about 3% so Myanmars forests remain the most unprotected in the
/ecotourism.htm. region. The government apparently plans to expand, in increments, to
protect 5%, then 10%, of the country at some point. Well see.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Essentially no environmental legislation was passed from the time of
independence until after 1988, and unsurprisingly most of the gov-
ernments acts such as recent efforts to green the Dry Zone, protect
wildlife etc have been ineffective.
At the moment, deforestation by the timber industry poses the great-
est threat to wildlife habitats. In areas where habitat loss isnt a problem,
hunting threatens to wipe out the rarer animal species. Wildlife laws are
seldom enforced, which hardly helps matters. Poaching remains a huge
A conservative estimate is problem in Myanmar, where tiger, elephant, python, turtle and eagle is
that 500,000 cu metres of frequently sold in Mandalay (en route to China usually). Of the protected
timber heads to China areas, 13 of 16 wildlife sanctuaries are smaller than 350 sq km not big
annually. Myanmars enough to make much of a difference.
forest cover is currently Marine life is threatened by a lack of long-range conservation goals.
about 50%, but apparently Myanmars move to industrialise means that the release of pollutants
the percentage drops by into rivers and the sea is steadily increasing, and overfishing, especially
1.4% annually one of in the delta regions, is also a growing problem. The country must also
the 10 worst deforestation deal with illegal encroachment on national fisheries by Bangladeshi, Thai
rates in the world. and Malaysian fishing boats.
Though most locals recycle nonbiodegradable material as a matter of
course (disposability is still only a luxury for the rich here), and despite
governments plans to expand protected areas, there is no environmen-
tal movement in the country as such.
About 70% of the population are farmers, and much of Myanmars
forests have fallen to the axe for fuel sources, or legal/illicit timber
www.lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T N a t i o n a l Pa r k s 73
exports. One of the most troubled areas is the so-called Dry Zone, made Myanmar is the worlds
up of heavily populated Mandalay, lower Sagaing and Magwe divisions. second-leading producer
Little of the original vegetation remains in this pocket (which is about of heroin, with many
10% of Myanmars land, but home to one-third of the population) due poppy farms in the
to growth in the areas population and deforestation. The problem isnt Golden Triangle area
new. Much of Britains 19th-century industrialisation, as well as the train of Shan State. The UNs
tracks made here in Myanmar, were built from cut Burmese timber. Fol- Office of Drugs & Crime
lowing the 1988 putting down of the prodemocracy protests, the govern- reported, however, that
ment relaxed timber and fishing laws for short-term gains, causing more poppy cultivation fell by
long-term problems. 29% in 2004.
74
Food & Drink

STAPLES & SPECIALTIES
Burmese Cuisine
Mainstream Burmese cuisine represents an intriguing blend of Bamar,
Mon, Indian and Chinese influences. Tmn, also written as htamin
(rice) is the core of any Burmese meal, to be eaten with a choice of hn
(curry dishes), most commonly fish, chicken, prawns or mutton. Very
little beef or pork is eaten by the Burmese beef because its considered
offensive to most Hindus and Burmese Buddhists, and pork because
the nat (spirits) disapprove (see p60). Many Burmese Buddhists in fact
abstain from eating the flesh of any four-legged animal, and, during the
Buddhist rain retreat around the Waso full moon may take up a fire-free
diet that includes only uncooked vegetables and fruit. Nearly all butchers
in Myanmar are either Muslim or Chinese.
Unlike many Chinese dishes, Burmese food takes a long time to prepare,
and is often best eaten either at lunch in restaurants when its fresh, or in
homes. Bamar curries are the mildest in Asia in terms of chilli power in
fact most cooks dont use chillies at all in their recipes, just a simple masala
of turmeric, ginger, garlic, salt and onions, plus plenty of peanut oil and
shrimp paste. Heat can be added in the form of balachaung, a table condi-
ment made from chillies, tamarind and dried shrimp pounded together, or
When youre served a from the very pungent, very hot ngapi jaw (shrimp paste fried in peanut
bowl of hn (curry), youre oil with chilli, garlic and onions). Curries are generally cooked until the
not expected to consume oil separates from all other ingredients and floats on top. Some restaurants
all the oil; just spoon will add oil to maintain the correct top layer, as the oil preserves the un-
out the ingredients from derlying food from contamination by insects and airborne bacteria while
underneath the layer. the curries sit in open, unheated pots for hours at a time.
Lots of dishes are flavoured with ngapi, which is a salty paste concocted
from dried and fermented shrimp or fish, and can be very much an ac-
quired taste. A thin sauce of pressed fish or shrimp called ngan-pya-ye
may also be used to salt Bamar dishes.
One of the culinary highlights of Burmese food (or Bamar food) is
undoubtedly dhouq or thouq (also lethouq) light, spicy salads made with
One of the seminal works raw vegetables or fruit tossed with lime juice, onions, peanuts, chillies and
on Myanmar cuisine is other spices. Among the most exquisite are maji-yweq dhouq, made with
Cook and Entertain the tender young tamarind leaves, and shauk-thi dhouq, mixed with pomelo,
Burmese Way, by Mi Mi a large citrus fruit similar in appearance to grapefruit, but sweeter. Tmn
Khaing. let-dhouq are savoury salads made with cooked rice.
A popular finish to Bamar meals is la-hpeq dhouq (a saladlike concoc-
tion of pressed, moistened green tea leaves mixed with a combination
of sesame seeds, fried peas, dried shrimp, fried garlic, peanuts, toasted
coconut and ginger, and other crunchy flavourings). The slimy-looking
mass of leaves puts some foreigners off, but its actually quite tasty once
you get beyond the dishs exotic appearance.
A common side dish is Indian-influenced peh-hn-ye (lentil soup, or
dahl); the classier restaurants may serve dahl fortified with chunks of
boiled turnips, potatoes and okra. A hn-jo (mild soup) of green squash
may also be available. Once youve ordered one or more curries at an au-
thentic tmn zain (rice shop), rice, dahl, soup, side dishes and Chinese
tea come automatically for no charge.
Noodle dishes are most often eaten for breakfast or as light meals
between the main meals of the day. By far the most popular is mohinga
www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K D r i n k s 75
(rice noodles with chicken or fish), which is eaten with a spoon and
tu (chopsticks). Another popular noodle dish, especially at festivals, is
oun-no hkauq-sweh, rice noodles with pieces of chicken in a spicy sauce
made with coconut milk.
REGIONAL CUISINE
In Mandalay and around Inle (Kalaw, Pindaya, Nyaungshwe and Taung-
gyi) it is also fairly easy to find Shan cuisine, which is very similar to
northern Thai cuisine. Popular dishes are kauk sen (Shan-style wide rice
noodles with curry) and various fish and meat salads. Large maung jeut
(rice crackers) are common throughout Shan State.
Shn kauk swh (Shan-style noodle soup) thin wheat noodles in
a light broth with chunks of chilli-marinated chicken is a favourite
all over Myanmar but is most common in Mandalay and Shan State. A
variation popular in Mandalay is made with rice noodles and called myi
shay. Another Shan dish worth seeking out is tmn chin (sour rice, a
turmeric-coloured rice salad).
Mon cuisine, most readily available in towns stretching from Bago to
Mawlamyine, is very similar to Bamar food with a greater emphasis on
curry selections. While a Bamar restaurant might offer a choice of four Food is so enjoyed in
or five curries, a Mon restaurant will have as many as a dozen, all lined Myanmar that standard
up in curry pots to examine. Mon curries are also more likely to contain greetings to friends and
chillies than in other cuisines. foreigners include:
Rakhaing food most resembles dishes found in Bangladesh and Indias sar pyi bi lar? (have you
Bengal state, featuring lots of bean and pulse dishes, very spicy curries eaten your lunch yet?)
and flatbreads. Because of Rakhaing States long coastline, seafood is and bar hn ne sar le?
common in the larger towns. Seafood is also available and popular in (what curry did you have
Tanintharyi Division, which has a similarly lengthy sea coast. for lunch?)
Chinese & Indian Cuisines

In towns large and small throughout Myanmar youll find plenty of
Chinese restaurants, many of which offer regional specialities that are a
world (well, half of China anyway) away from the Chinese food found in
Western countries. For example, there are Muslim-Chinese restaurants
that serve Yunnanese specialities.
Indian restaurants are also common, although much more so in Yangon
than elsewhere. Most are run by Muslim Indians, a few by Hindus. Excel-
lent chicken dan bauk (biryani) as well as all-you-can-eat vegetarian thali
served on a banana-leaf is easy to find in the capital. The Myanmar people
call Indian restaurants that serve all-you-can-eat thalis Chitty or Chetty
restaurants. Many Indian places outside of Yangon can be very basic.
Fruit
Myanmar has a wide variety of tropical fruits (watermelon, grapefruit
lychee, pomelo, banana, tangerine etc) and in season you can get deli- Half of Ba Thans fun
cious strawberries in Pyin U Lwin, Mandalay and even Yangon. Dont little book Myanmars
miss the huge avocados if youre in the Inle Lake area. Bago is known Attractions & Delights
for its tasty pineapples, and Hsipaw has the most delicious papayas weve (2003) features snippets
ever sampled. Mangoes are available from March through July, jackfruit of background on various
from June to October. dishes and food-related
customs. The book is
DRINKS available in some Yangon
Nonalcoholic Drinks bookshops.
Only drink water in Myanmar when you know it has been purified
which in most restaurants it should be. You should be suspicious of ice
76 F O O D & D R I N K D r i n k s www.lonelyplanet.com
although weve had lots of ice drinks in Myanmar without suffering

any ill-effects. Many brands of drinking water are sold in bottles and
are quite safe. A 1L bottle, usually kept cool by ice or refrigerator, costs
about K150 or K200.
For more tips on drinking Burmese tea, brewed in the Indian style with lots of milk and sugar, is
water, see p375. cheap. If this is not to your liking, ask for Chinese tea, which is weak and
comes without milk. Many restaurants, the Chinese ones in particular,
will provide as much weak Chinese tea as you can handle for free if
you order some food. Its a good, safe thirst quencher and some people
prefer it to regular Burmese tea. You can always buy some little snack if
youd like some tea but not a meal. Teashops (p79) are a good place to
drink safely boiled tea and munch on inexpensive snacks such as nam-
bya, palata (kinds of flat breads) or Chinese pastries.
Soft drinks are more costly but reasonable by Asian standards. Since
the privatisation of industry there has been a boom in new made-in-
Myanmar soft-drink brands, including Fantasy, Max, Star, Fruito and
Crusher. They taste pretty much the same as a Coke and are not fre-
quently found outside Yangon or touristy areas. Local soft drinks costs
about K150 per bottle, while a Coke can be K700 or more because it can
only be brought into the country via the black market.
Coffee drinkers will find themselves growing disturbingly attached to
the three-in-one packets of instant coffee (the three being coffee, milk
and sugar), which you can have in teashops for about K200. Shops sell
them for K100 each in stores.
Alcoholic Drinks
In the past the Burmese were not big drinkers. This was partially due to
the general lack of disposable income but also because alcohol-drinking
is looked down upon by the many Burmese Buddhists who interpret the
fifth lay precept against intoxication very strictly. However, with the ad-
vent of beer stations places that serve cheap draught beer the number
of urban Burmese who can afford a few glasses of beer after work is on
the rise. In fact, beer stations seem to be giving the traditional Burmese
teashops some stiff competition.
Any place selling beer or alcohol must pay (sometimes relatively ex-
pensive) alcohol licence fees to the government. See p79 for information
on drinking venues.
BEER
Apart from international brands such as Tiger, ABC Stout, Singha, San
Miguel, Beck and other beers brewed in Thailand, Singapore and Indo-
nesia (typically costing K800 to K1200 for a 375mL can or bottle), there
are a couple of Myanmar brews. These include long-established Myanmar
Beer, which is very similar to Indian or Sri Lankan beer and equal to
Tiger, to the palate of at least a couple of researchers. A more watery beer
is Mandalay Beer. If you order it, some waiting staff may double-check
to see if you meant Myanmar beer. Some bottles contain a layer of
sediment on the bottom resulting from inadequate filtration. Founded in
1886, Mandalay Brewery, in Yangon, also produces the New Mandalay
Export label, which is the best-tasting local beer. Some fine, newer, brands
brewed in Myanmar include Dagon and Skol. All these cost about the
same as Mandalay Beer but taste a lot better. Also worth a try is the new
Mandalay Strong Ale, which packs a punch with a 7.5% alcohol content.
Among the locals, Myanmar draught is the favourite; a glass of it will
only set you back K250.
www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K C e l e b r a t i o n s 77
TODDY
Throughout central Myanmar and the delta, tn ye (or htan ye; palm
juice) or toddy is the farmers choice of alcoholic beverage. Tn ye is
tapped from the top of a toddy palm, the same tree and the same sap
that produces jaggery, or palm sugar. The juice is sweet and nonalcoholic
in the morning, but by midafternoon ferments naturally to a weak, beer-
like strength. By the next day it will have turned. The milky, viscous liquid
has a nutty aroma and a slightly sour flavour that fades quickly.
Villages in some areas have their own thatched-roof toddy bars where
the locals meet and drink pots of fermented toddy. The toddy is sold in
the same roughly engraved terracotta pots the juice is collected in and
drunk from coconut half-shells set on small bamboo pedestals. Favourite
toddy accompaniments include prawn crackers and fried peas. Some
toddy bars also sell tn-ayeq (toddy liquor, also called jaggery liquor), a
much stronger, distilled form of toddy sap.
OTHER LIQUORS & WINES

Very popular in Shan State is an orange brandy called shwe leinmaw,
with prices decreasing depending on how close to the source you buy it.
Much of it is distilled in the mountains between Kalaw and Taunggyi. Its
a pleasant-tasting liqueur sort of a poor mans Grand Marnier and
packs quite a punch.
In Pyin U Lwin, there are several sweet strawberry-based wines you
can pick up.
There is also a variety of stronger liquors, including ayeq hpyu (white
liquor), which varies in strength from brandylike to almost pure ethyl;
and taw ayeq (jungle liquor), a cruder form of ayeq hpyu.
CELEBRATIONS
Burmese meals are made not with servings, but giant shareable por-
tions, and feasts often spill into grand family-and-friends affairs. For Many festivals in Myanmar
some birthdays, when a child takes the robe and joins a monastery, involve celebrations.
and certainly funerals (or anniversaries of deaths), monks are invited to For more information,
eat with Buddhist families, who offer blessings to the family. Those who see p340.
can afford it arrange large parties to eat at Chinese restaurants or hotel
restaurants for weddings or birthdays.
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Myanmar has essentially three dining/drinking scenarios: whats in Yan-
gon; whats in other oft-visited places (Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake,
Ngapali Beach); and then everywhere else. Food can be quite cheap
(from K1000 for a full stomach) if you stick to the roadside restaurants
with their curry-filled pots or pick-and-point rice dishes. On the other
hand, the restaurants of big hotels or Yangon's expat-oriented scene are
predictably expensive; some only accept US dollars. Other oft-visited
towns have restaurants that cater to travellers, though they are not as
upmarket as some restaurants in Yangon.
Because almost all accommodation options include a free breakfast
of eggs or, on occasion, mohinga many travellers dont venture out
in the morning.
Quick Eats
By far the bulk of eateries throughout Myanmar are basic with concrete
floors, wide-open front for ventilation and often a menu in English.
Burmese eateries are busiest (and many say freshest) at lunch. No menus
78 F O O D & D R I N K W h e re t o E a t & D r i n k www.lonelyplanet.com
STREET SNACKS: WE DARE YOU

Myanmar thye-za (literally mouth-watering snack) come in an eye-popping array of cheap bite-
sized snacks that line night markets all around the country. Most of the stuff isnt threatening
multicoloured sticky-rice sweets, poppy-seed cakes, dried salt fish split open and de-boned,
and banana or potato puddings. A bag of the sweet offerings can be taken to a restaurant for a
cheap BYO dessert. Other options, though, are a little more of a challenge to Western stomachs.
Some locals boast that anything that walks on the ground can be eaten, the following list is
testimony to that saying:
items at a wek thaa douk htoe (barbecue stand) these stands are a few tiny plastic stools
around a boiling pot and a circular grill filled with various sliced-up pig organs (liver, intestine,
lung, pancreas, heart, head, lip, ears, nose, tongue); grab and grill and dip in the spicy sauce
for about K20 per piece.
pa-yit kyaw (fried cricket) like the ol adage goes, theres nothing like a 10-pack of fried
crickets for K400 to kick off an evening; sometimes they are sold on a skewer one local
explained how to eat them: take off the head, peel off the wings and gulp it.
bi-laar (beetle) prepared like crickets, except diners suck the stomach out, then chew the
head part.
thin baun poe (larva) these thick, cocoonlike insect larvae, freshly taken from bamboo poles,
are lightly grilled and served still wriggling; a vendor explained, Its best to eat raw because
its good for your stomach, apparently theres a big demand in China for these, so eat them
while you can.
are necessary at most; just go to the line of curries and point to what
you want. A meal comes with a tableful of condiments, all of which are
automatically refilled once you finish them. An all-you-can-eat meal is
about K1000 or K1500. Some basic eateries operate as long as restaurants
(roughly 7am to 8pm or 9pm).
Another abundant option is the (usually) hole-in-the-wall Indian curry
shop, which generally serves veggie dishes only and no beer. You can rec-
ognise Muslim (halal) restaurants by the numeral 786 over the door, some-
times flanked by the star-and-crescent symbol. This number represents the
Arabic phrase In the name of Allah the most beneficent and merciful.
Like most Southeast Asians, the people of Myanmar are great grab-
and-go snackers; stands at night markets, selling a host of sweets and
barbecued meals and noodles, get going around 5pm to 8pm or later, and
are generally the liveliest and cheapest eating in Myanmar. Generally you
can get some fried noodles, a few pieces of pork, or sticky rice wrapped in
banana leaf for K100 to K250. Street and market stalls tend to provide the
regional dishes, but youll need to be a little wary of cleanliness.
Restaurants
Most restaurants keep long hours daily, usually from 7am to 9pm or until
the last diner wants to stumble out belly full of curry or beer.
Chinese restaurants are found in most towns, and can be quite ap-
pealing after a week or so of Burmese food. Most have similar sprawling
menus, with as many as 50 rice or noodle chicken, pork, lamb, fish, beef
or vegetable dishes. Veggie dishes start at around K500 or K600; meat
dishes about K1000.
SWISHY EATS
More upmarket restaurants sometimes serving a mix of Asian foods,
others specialising (Italian, Thai etc) can be found in Bagan, Mandalay,
www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K W h e re t o E a t & D r i n k 79
Inle Lake and (especially) Yangon. Also, most top-end hotels, too, offer
plusher eating places, sometimes set around the pool. Such comfort is
rarer to come by off the beaten track. In Yangon, a dish at a Japanese,
Korean or Italian restaurant, for example, can cost up to US$10. A hot
pizza at Nyaung U, in Bagan, is about K1200 or K1500.
Upscale hotel restaurants usually have a few Bamar dishes on their
menus but these will be toned-down versions of the real thing, with less
chilli and seasonings, and theyll usually come with fewer accompany-
ing dishes.
Drinking Venues
Outside Yangon, drinking gets done at restaurants or open-air bar-
becue restaurants sometimes called in Burmese-English, cutely, beer
stations. Opening hours are therefore the same as for restaurants. All
but Indian restaurants keep cold bottles of Tiger and Myanmar beer
handy (charging from K1000 to K1200 in basic restaurants, upwards
to K3000 in swankier ones). Its perfectly fine to linger for hours and
down a few beers.
Men and women dont often intermingle at restaurants, so in many
places you may see red-faced men lingering over a slowly amassing number
of empty bottles, with full ones always kept nearby by waiting staff.
More upmarket restaurants will serve foreign wines and mix cocktails.
For information on Yangons lively drinking scene, including expat
hang-outs and places where many famous Myanmar musicians go to get
blitzed, see p118.
Teashops
At all times of day youll see locals sitting in teashops, where the tea
flows freely and the assorted pastries are very inexpensive. Teashops are
an important social institution in Myanmar, serving as meeting places
for friends, family and business associates, as well as a source of cheap
nutrition and caffeine.
The shops come in all shapes and sizes, indoor and outdoor, morning-
oriented and evening-oriented. The morning teashops are typically open
from 5am to 5pm, and generally serve the best-quality tea; many will also
serve Burmese-style coffee. Evening teashops open from 4pm or 5pm and
stay open till 11pm or later even all night in some places, particularly
near train or bus stations that have late-night activity.
MYANMARS TOP FIVE RESTAURANTS

Sandys Myanmar Cuisine, Yangon (p112) If youre tired of streetside stalls serving mohinga
(noodles and chicken/fish), this stylish colonial building serves excellent Burmese fare on its
outdoor patio overlooking Kandawgyi Lake.
Grilled squid at a private open-air restaurant, Ngapali Beach (p316) Fresh squid dunked in
chilli/garlic sauce is probably Myanmars best meal.
Seik Tie Kye Restaurant (p199) You and three pals can share a giant steaming hotpot of
chicken and beancurd then order fresh ice-cream chasers for about K2000 each.
Aroma 2, Nyaung U (p271) Fresh Indian curries fish, mutton, veggie come on banana-leaf
plates; the best stuff needs to be ordered a day ahead.
Burmese Cuisine, Hsipaw (p212) Sure the names obvious, but this hole-in-the-wall fills a
host of pots with tasty curries; best is the pumpkin for K300 a plate.
80 F O O D & D R I N K Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s www.lonelyplanet.com
The quality of tea can vary dramatically from one teashop to the next.
The best use only fresh, top-quality Indian-style tea for every brewing
cycle, while the worst recycle tea leaves until the flavour and colour are
gone. A cup of tea, served with condensed milk, is K100 to K200.
You can get hot Chinese-style tea at many restaurants for free with food;
most restaurants do not serve Indian tea (aka Burmese tea) with milk.
Myanmars teashops are ORDERING DELICIOUS TEA

often excellent places to Getting tea with milk at a teashop can be one of the countrys great chal-
go for breakfast. lenges. Some servers know the English word tea, but you may end up
with Chinese-style tea (and no milk) unless youre willing to point-and-
nod at fellow sippers tables, or learn a couple of phrases.
lpeqye tea water, will come with a dollop of condensed milk
cho bouk less sweet version of lpeqye
kyauk padaung very sweet, the phrase comes from a famous sugar-
palmgrowing region near Bagan
VEGETARIANS & VEGANS

Vegetarians will be able to find fare at most restaurants in Myanmar. Even
meaty barbecues have a few skewered vegetables that can be grilled up.
The easiest way to convey your needs is saying I cant eat meat (th
ms-nain-b). In some cases, saying no chicken, no pork, no fish in Eng-
lish gets the point across. Some Indian or Nepali restaurants are vegan.
Throughout the regional chapters, we highlight some particularly good
vegetarian options or restaurants.
EATING WITH KIDS

You wont find childrens menus in Myanmar restaurants, but staff will
be happy to serve kids and can offer smaller portions on request. Some
more traveller-oriented restaurants have bonus features such as puppet
shows or live music that may add to the fun.
HABITS & CUSTOMS

At home, most families take their meals sitting on reed mats around a
low, round table about 30cm in height. In restaurants, chairs and tables
are more common. The entire meal is served at once, rather than in
courses. In basic Bamar restaurants, each individual diner in a group
typically orders a small plate of curry for himself or herself, while side
dishes are shared among the whole party. This contrasts with China and
Thailand, for example, where every dish is usually shared.
Traditionally, Bamar food is eaten with the fingers, much like in India,
usually with the right hand (but using the left doesnt seem to be a taboo
as it is in India). Nowadays, its also common for urban Myanmar people
to eat with a kyn or hkayin (fork) and zn (tablespoon). These are always
available at Bamar restaurants and almost always given to foreign diners.
DOS & DONTS

A fork is held in the left hand and used as a probe to push food onto the spoon; you eat from
the spoon.
If youre invited to a home, its common for the hostess and children to not eat at the table.
Locals tend to focus on the flavours, not table talk, during meals.
If youre asked to join someone at a restaurant, they will expect to pay for the meal.
www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s 81
EAT YOUR WORDS

For some general Burmese phrases and pronunciation guidelines see the
Language chapter on p379.
Useful Phrases
FINDING FOOD
Is there a ... near here?
... dinhma shdhl? ... dIn;"mH;rHiol;">
Chinese restaurant tyouqsain trut'zui='
food stall sthauqsain c;"eo;k'zui='
restaurant sdawseq c;"et;'zk'
Shan noodle stall shnkaukswhzain rHm'"ex:k'zEzui='
ORDERING
I cant eat meat.
th msnainb. ao;" mc;"Nui='.U">
Do you have any drinking water?
thauqye shdhl? eo;k'errHiol;">
Whats the best dish to eat today?
din bahn kanzonlh? dIen.;h='"aek;='"zu"lE>
Please bring (a) ...
... yupba ... yUep"p:>
chopsticks tu tU
fork kyn xk'r='"
spoon zn jn'"
knife d /:"
glass pangweq fn'xk'
plate bganby pn'"kn'p;"
bowl bganlon pn'"kn'lu"
cup kweq xk'
I didnt order this.
da mhmab d: mmH;.U">
Food Glossary
MEALS
breakfast mneqsa mnk'c;
lunch nlehza enl''c;
dinner nyza c;
snack/small meal mun/thyeza mun'oerc;
TYPICAL BURMESE DISHES

mhhnaq amENHp' beef in gravy
ceqthcojeq kk'o;"axYixYk' sweet chicken
ceqthgin kk'o;"k=' grilled chicken (satay)
ceqthjaw kk'o;"ek;' fried chicken
hn h='" curry
mh-dh-hn amEo;"h='" beef curry
ceq-th-hn kk'o;"h='" chicken curry
hndhhnyweqhn/ h='"oI"h='"rkh ' ='" vegetable curry
thzounhn oI"cuh='"
hnjo h='"xYi soup (clear or mild)
sanhlawhnjo zn'elH;'h='"xYi sizzling rice soup
sehhnmyhnjo zy'NHc'mYi"h='"xYi 12-taste soup
mundi mun'tI Mandalay mount-ti (noodles & chicken/fish)
munhng mun'h='"x:" mohinga (noodles and chicken/fish)
82 F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s www.lonelyplanet.com
munsijaw mun'zIek;'' sweet fried-rice pancakes

munzn mun'zn'" sticky rice cake with jaggery (palm sugar)
ngdhouq =:"ou=' fish salad
ngban(douq) =:"ep:='"(qup') steamed fish (in banana leaves)
tmn qm='" rice
kaukhnynban ek;k'H='"ep:='" steamed sticky rice
ontmn aun'"qm='" coconut rice
t mn-gyaw qm='"ek;' fried rice
tnthmun qn'"oI"mun' toddy-palm sugar cake
weqthni vk'o;"nI red pork
MEAT & SEAFOOD

mhdh amEo;" beef
ceqth kk'o;" chicken
ky xru shellfish
ng =:" fish
ngku =:"xU catfish
ngshn =:"rH' eel
pinlehza/yethaqtwa p='ly'c;erotv: seafood
pyijng p'kI"=:" squid
thlauqpan oel;k'ep:='" carp
weqth vk'o;" pork
VEGETABLES
bdh .U"oI" zucchini/gourd
ceqthunni kk'on'nI onion
gawbidouq egfIqup' cabbage
hndhhnyweq h='"oI"h='"rk' vegetables
hmo mi mushrooms
hngpywb =Hk'epY;fU" banana flower
klbh kul;"pE chick peas
kyndh xrm'"oI" eggplant/aubergine
kynjindh xrm'"xYw'oI" tomato
mounlawa mun'l;wv: carrot
pn-gawpi pn'"egfI cauliflower
pyoundh fruoI" pumpkin
phdh pEoI" beans
pyanb ep;='"fU" corn (cob)
FRUIT
wzath oj;oI" custard apple (influence fruit)
ceqmauqth kk'em;k'oI" rambutan (cocksomb fruit)
cwhgwdh kJEek;oI" pomelo
dyndh dU"r='"oI" durian
laincdh lui='xYI"oI" lychee
leinmawdh liem;'oI" orange
meqmndh mk'mn'"oI" plum (damson)
mjdh mn'kY'"oI" tamarind
nanaqth n;nt'oI" pineapple
ngpywdh =Hk'epY;oI" banana
ondh aun'"oI" coconut
pndh pn'"oI" apple (flower fruit)
paunmundh ep:='mun'oI" breadfruit
shauqth erH;k'oI" lemon
twbaqth eq;pt'oI" avocado (butter fruit)
www.lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K E a t Y o u r W o r d s 83
thanbyadh opr;oI" lime

thiqth/ath oc'oI"aoI" fruit
thyeqdh ork'oI" mango
thnbwdh oe.;oI" papaya (boat-shaped fruit)
SPICES & CONDIMENTS

ceqthunbyu kk'on'f garlic
gyn gY='" ginger
hnn NHm'" sesame
hnnye NH='"r' rose syrup
kal twbaq kul;"eq;pt' ghee
knya km'"y; betel quid
meiqthlin mit'ol=' galangal (white gingerlike root)
myebh(jaw) empE(ek;') peanuts (fried)
nannanbin nnp=' coriander
nganpyaye =p;r' fish sauce
ngyouqth =rut'oI" chilli
ngyouqye =rut'r' chilli sauce
onn aun'"Niu coconut cream
palaz f:l;ec cardamon
phnganpyaye pE=p;r' soy sauce
twbaq eq;pt' butter
thagu o;gU sago/tapioca
ton qu" lime (for betel)
s z;" salt
snwn zN='" turmeric
shalkaye rH;lk;r' vinegar
thj ok;" sugar
th/tp tuihU"tuif" tofu (beancurd)
COLD DRINKS
yeq ark' alcohol
blaqye/pyawye .ilp'r'efY;'r' soft drink
biya/tbln .Iy; beer
canye kr' sugarcane juice
leinmawye liem;'r' orange juice
nwn N;"Nui milk
onye aun'"r' coconut juice
soda zuid: soda water
tnye qn'"r' toddy
thanbyaye opr;r' lime juice
ye er water
thnye on'er bottled water (clean water)
ye erea" cold water
yejeq erxYk'ea" boiled cold water
yenw ereN" hot water
HOT DRINKS
kawfi ek;'fI coffee
dhjnh ok;"nE with sugar
nsnh NuizInE with condensed milk
nwnnh N;"NuinE with milk
lpeqyejn/ lk'fk'r'km'" green tea (plain)
yenwjn ereN"km'"
leqpeqye lk'fk'r' tea (Indian)
84 www.lonelyplanet.com
84
Yangon
YA N G O N
r n ' .un '

Yangon (formerly Rangoon) gives the impression of picturesque dishevelment, a half-finished
work in progress, and is the most multiethnic, cosmopolitan, and interesting city in Myanmar.
Located in the fertile delta region of central Myanmar on the wide Yangon River, this city more
than anywhere else in the country exudes an entrepreneurial energy, at least as much as the
government allows; commuters shuttle between work, home and school on recycled Chinese
ferries, and Western-style shopping centres teem with a new generation of mall rats.
Crumbling decrepit buildings such as the impressive colonnaded ministries that line Strand
Rd, the tall glass Chinese-style office towers and the glittering gold-topped stupas make up an
untidy, irregular jumble teeming with life. From above, rooftop orchards of satellite dishes look
like they are being swallowed by a sea of telephone wires, creeping through the patchwork
quilt of disparate architecture. Packs of kids in spotless green school uniforms, teenagers in
jeans and T-shirts, saffron-robed monks and longyi-clad men and women navigate the throng-
ing, crumbling sidewalks of the city centre, dodging the miniature furniture of the ubiquitous
teahouses and street vendors peddling everything imaginable, from knock-off sunglasses and
second-hand clothes, to glossy posters of Burmese models and movie stars.
Parts of the city look like theyre recovering from a strong quake, parts are rich in greenery, and
parts are like mushrooming industrial appendages seen the world over. In Yangon, despite the
contradictions of modern urban life, flip-flops are the footwear of choice, and the vibe is more
easygoing than frenetic. Its one of the most exotic and striking cities in Southeast Asia.
HIGHLIGHTS
The one stupa not to be missed, golden Shwedagon
Shwedagon Paya (p90) lives up to the Paya
Kandawgyi
hype Lake
Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121) is a
bargain-shoppers paradise
Everything and everyone is waiting for you
at Yangons downtown street life (p121)
Wander around the architectural hodge
podge of downtown (p105) where
glittering, ancient payas (Buddhist Bogyoke Aung
San Market
monuments) share the streets with
colonial old Rangoon
From corner teashops to night-time grill Downtown
Yangon
shops to international haute cuisine,
dining out (p112) in Yangon is a treat; and Yang
on Riv
er
cuisines come together in filling harmony
TELEPHONE CODE: 01 POPULATION: 5 MILLION ELEVATION: 14M

www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N H i s t o r y 85
HISTORY monly seen in the city centre and satellite
YA N G O N
As Myanmars capital city, Yangon is com- dishes dot the horizon. To try and keep
paratively young it only became the cap- blood-red spittle off the streets, the selling
ital in 1885 when the British completed the of betel nut was banned in 1995. As with
conquest of northern Myanmar and Man- many such decrees, the results have been
dalays brief period as the centre of the last negligible.
Burmese kingdom ended.
Despite its short history as the seat of ORIENTATION
national government, Yangon has been in The city is bounded to the south and west
existence for a long time although very by the Yangon River (also known as the Hla-
much as a small town, in comparison to ing River) and to the east by Pazundaung
places such as Bago (Pegu), Pyay or Thaton. Chaung (Pazundaung Canal), which flows
In 1755 King Alaungpaya conquered cen- into the Yangon River. The city is divided
tral Myanmar and built a new city on the into townships, and street addresses are
site of Yangon, which at that time was often suffixed with these names (eg 126 52nd
known as Dagon. Yangon means end of St, Botataung Township or Botataung t/s).
strife: the king rather vainly hoped that North of the centre, the city opens up like
with the conquest of central Myanmar, his the top of a funnel and spreads along a net-
struggles would be over. work of long, curving avenues.
In 1756, with the destruction of Than- At the northern end, most businesses
lyin (Syriam) across the river, Yangon also and hotels are found along Pyay Rd, Kaba
became an important seaport. In 1841 the Aye Pagoda Rd or Insein Rd long thor-
city was virtually destroyed by fire; the re- oughfares running south from the airport
built town again suffered extensive damage area to the city centre. Addresses in this
during the Second Anglo-Burmese War in northern area often quote the number of
1852. The British, the new masters, rebuilt miles from Sule Paya the landmark paya
the capital to its present plan and corrupted (stupa or pagoda) in the citys centre. For
the citys name to Rangoon. example, Pyay Rd, Mile 8 means the place
Yangons early history as Dagon is tied is 8 miles (13km) north of Sule Paya on
very closely to its grand Buddhist stupa, the Pyay Rd.
Shwedagon Paya. It doesnt stand in the city Two of the most important townships
centre, rather about 3km to the north yet outside the central area are Dagon where
it totally dominates the Yangon skyline. youll find Shwedagon Paya, Peoples Park
In 1988 around 15% of Yangons city cen- and several embassies and Bahan, site of
tre population all squatters were moved
to seven myo thit (new towns) northeast
of the city centre. Many of the old colo- YANGON STREET NAMES
nial buildings once occupied by the squat- The English terms of street and road are
ters have now been refurbished for use as often used interchangeably in Yangon for
offices, businesses and apartments. The the single Burmese word ln. Hence, some
government rationalised the imposed re- local maps may read Shwe Gone Daing St,
locations as being an effort to distribute while others will say Shwe Gone Daing Rd;
the city population more evenly, to impose in Burmese, its simply Shwe Gone Daing
order on development and to insure space Ln. This chapter uses the most common
for industrial parks planned for the citys English version that travellers encounter.
edge. Just to make matters a little more con-
The city has changed dramatically fol- fusing, different maps present the actual
lowing the 1989 banishment of socialism. names of streets differently, for example
Starting in the early 1990s, the government Shwe Gone Daing Rd is Shwegondaing Rd
began sprucing up the citys appearance on some local maps. Similarly, U Wi Za Ra
by cleaning the streets and painting many Rd may appear as as U Wizara Rd, Dhamma
public buildings. Since 1992, when the rela- Zedi Rd as Dhammazedi Rd, and Sule Paya
tively moderate, procapitalist General Than Rd as Sule Pagoda Rd, and there are many
Shwe took power, new cars and trucks have other differences.
taken to city roads, mobile phones are com-
86 YA N G O N G re a t e r Ya n g o n www.lonelyplanet.com
0 2 km
GREATER YANGON
YA N G O N
0 1 mile

A To Bago (78km); B C D
Pyay (286km); 43
An
Mandalay (644km)
aw
rat
ha
R
d
hi R
d
1 Dagon
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9 yM Ky University
Kha St an
Mingaladon an Sit
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International North ar
iri

Airport Thu Rd
on
M
Okkalapa
Pyi
Nan
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ati dar North

ar
(St
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Pweseikkon
Rd
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ay
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17
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26 22
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29 on
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Th
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To Hliang Thar Yar 25

Thamaing
Bus Station (10km); U Kyin
Nyaung Tone Ou St
(61km) 16
3 Mayangon
Th
4
an
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5 d
Th
Rd
Okkyin 28 i R
u
27
ram
M
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21
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5
36 37 Rd d
ar rR
ing
Pun Hlaing 2 34 its ta

Rd
Kanbe To Yau Kyaw

Golf Estate 39 Th yit
Rd
e Pa
Paya (2km)
Riv
Pyay
M
er
Kaba Ay
Rd
Th
35 Inya
Kamayut ar
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Lake e R aN
42 nb Ya D
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31 33 14
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in
See Yangon Map p90-1

n Ta
Th

Pan Yankin
Hl
r Rd
ain
g University
Riv
er Ave n ue Rd
Kamayut
Pyay
Ha d
nth rR
R
ma
Kokkine Rd
aw 30
d
ad hu
dy ant
Rd Bahan Tamwe Th
Creek
Yangon River
ar
To Thanlyin

Yw
Thuwunna (8km);
Kuon Bridge Kyauktan
(20km)
5 Ayer Won
Sanchaung Main Rd
ng Rd
zundau
Kandawgyi
Rd
Lake
r St
Se
da
d Dagon
ne R
tY
Tha

Ahlo
nan
Pa
one
er
Upp
aw
Min
Rd
in T
Mingala
Pyay
Taung
My
e St
Nyunt
ae S
Pya
Rd
Taw Taw
Ahlone Thaketa
n Py
Yangon
Yan
St
Bridge
St hinthar
in
Ma
Yo
My
Sule Pagoda
Pazundaung m
Mahabandoola Dawbon onna
Shuk
6 rR
Rd
Bridge Pa d
zun
Da
un 40
Stra gC
nd R Botataung ree
d k
Dala
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N I n f o r m a t i o n 87
INFORMATION Maha Pasan Guha................................16 C3 SLEEPING
YA N G O N
DHL Express Mail...............................(see 34) Me La Mu Paya...................................17 C2 Dusit Inya Lake Resort........................(see 34)
Diethelm Travel..................................(see 34) Myaing Haywun Park...........................18 B3 Renaissance Inya Lake Hotel................34 C4
IInsein General Hospital..........................1 A2 Myanma Gems Museum & Market......19 C3 Royal White Elephant Hotel..................35 B4
International SOS Medical Centre......(see 34) Myanmar Golf Club..............................20 B2 Shwe Hinthar Inn ................................36 B3
Israeli Embassy.......................................2 B4 Na-Gar Glass Factory............................21 B3
Philippines Embassy................................3 B3 Naga Cave Paya...................................22 C2 EATING
Sangha Hospital.....................................4 B3 Nagayon Paya......................................23 B2 LMoliere Restaurant ...........................37 B3
Women and Children Hospital............... 5 D3 Nandawun Market...............................24 C3 LOpera Restaurant..............................38 C4
Pinlon Market......................................25 D3 Silom Village Restaurant ......................39 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sailing Club........................................(see 31)
Ah Lain Nga Sint Paya...........................6 A2 Shan Kyaung Paya................................26 B2 ENTERTAINMENT
American Club.......................................7 B3 South Okkala Paya.............................. 27 D3 Asia Point Bowling Centre................... 40 D6
Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation Centre...8 C3 State Pariyatti Sasana Nawaday Cinema.................................41 C3
City Golf Resort Club..............................9 A1 University.........................................28 C3
Insein Market........................................10 A2 Swe Taw Myat Paya SHOPPING
Insein Prison..........................................11 A2 (Buddha Tooth Relic Pagoda).......... 29 C2 Royal Rose...........................................42 C4
Insein Park............................................12 A2 Thuwunna National Indoor Stadium.... 30 D5
Kaba Aye Paya.....................................13 C3 Yangon Boat Club................................31 B4 TRANSPORT
Kyaikkasan Paya...................................14 D4 Yangon Institute of Technology...........32 A2 Aung Mingalar Highway Bus Station....43 C1
Kyaikwaing Paya..................................15 B3 Yone Yang Antique Shop..................... 33 C4 Saw Bwar Gyi Gone Bus Station...........44 A2
many of the citys midrange and top-end the western arch. There is no public library
hotels and inns. Kandawgyi lake interrupts system in the country.
the flow of traffic from north to south, Alliance Francaise (Map p98; %282 122; Pyidaungsu
roads extend from it like spokes in a wheel, Yeiktha Rd; hTue & Fri) Attached to the French embassy;
and it is a convenient landmark from which try here for French-language material.
to orient yourself. American Center (Map p98; %223 140; 14 Taw Win
Central Yangon is a relatively simple St; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Behind the Ministry of Foreign
area to find your way around, and pleas- Affairs. It also has a collection of books and magazines,
ant enough to explore on foot. The main which can be perused.
central streets are laid out in a grid pat- British Council Library (Map p102; %295 300; Strand
tern, with the minor north-south streets Rd; h8.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4.30pm Sat) A very
numbered in the North American fashion. modern and plush facility connected to the British embassy.
Many of the major roads were renamed It has a small library of English-language magazines, books
after independence. and videos and one of the most complete collections of
English-language history books on Myanmar.
INFORMATION
Bookshops Emergency
Its worth checking out the many book- Your home embassy (see p339) may be able
stalls around Bogyoke Aung San Market to assist with advice during emergencies or
(see p121; formerly known as Scott Market) serious problems. Its a good idea to register
or along 37th St. Several stalls have small with your embassy upon arrival or, if pos-
selections of novels and nonfiction books sible, online before you arrive, so that the
in English, French and German. embassy staff will know where to reach you
Bagan Bookshop (Map p102; %377 227; 100 37th St; in case of an emergency at home.
h9am-5.30pm, closed Mon) It has the most complete There isnt always an English-speaking
selection of English-language books on Myanmar and operator on the following numbers; you
Southeast Asia. The front gate pulled across the entrance may have to enlist the aid of a Burmese
doesnt necessarily mean the place is closed unless the speaker to make these calls.
door inside the gate is closed too. The Bagan even has a Ambulance (%192)
photocopier so you can copy rare, out-of-print books on Fire department (%191)
Myanmar. Police (%199)
Inwa Bookshop (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd) This bookshop Red Cross (%295 133)
next to the Nay Pyi Daw Cinema sells old issues of foreign
magazines such as Newsweek and Der Spiegel as well Internet Resources
English-language airport paperbacks and romance novels. Most top-end hotels and many midrange
ones offer Internet access, as do a steadily
Cultural Centres & Libraries growing number of small businesses and
At Shwedagon Paya, you can visit the Lib- cafs. Several of the larger shopping cen-
rary & Archives of Buddhism, located in tres in the city have Internet cafs as well.
YA N G O N 88 YA N G O N I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
YANGON IN
Two Days
Start the morning with a traditional Myanmar breakfast of fish soup and tea. No matter how
early you begin the city will already be up and buzzing. Before the sun gets too high in the
sky and the heat becomes oppressive take a walk around Chinatown (p117), the bustling mar-
kets (p121) in the surrounding blocks and Sule Paya (p97), the geographic heart of the city.
Lunch in one of the Indian eateries nearby before doing some cruising around some temples
north of the city centre, including the Chaukhtatgyi Paya (p99) and nearby Ngahtatgyi Paya
(p100). Then take a stroll around Kandawgyi (p102), and maybe stop in for a drink at one of
the lakeside restaurants or hotels. Now, move on to the main event: the Shwedagon Pagoda
(p90), the highlight of any tour in Yangon, deserves time, attention and the perfect light of a
Yangon sunset. Dine at one of the excellent restaurants Bamar, Thai, Korean, Japanese, French
or Italian in the immediate vicinity.
The second day can begin much like the first at a street side teashop. Morning is the best
time for a ferry back and forth to Dalah (p125) on the other side of the Yangon river to provide
a little taste of delta life. Back on dry ground, the Botataung Paya (p97) near the jetty is the
next logical stop. Take a walk along Strand Rd for the British colonial-era architecture or head
directly to lunch at one of the restaurants around Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121). Then
theres the market itself, a bargain-shoppers Shangri-la, a maze of deals just waiting to be had.
If your bags are too heavy, you might want to return to your hotel, otherwise the street stalls
(p117) in Chinatown are a good way to meet locals while dinning in the city centre. If you still
have some get-up-and go, head to a teashop or one of the roof-top clubs nearby to squeeze as
much as you can out of the Myanmar capital.
Rates are by the hour usually pro rata (load about K1000). Rates at the top-end
if under an hour and you can send and hotels are not cheap. Another option is
receive however many messages you want Ava Laundry (Map p98; %245 575; 305 Mahabandoola
and access whatever websites you like, as- Rd, btwn 41st & 42nd Sts; h8am-8pm) though its
suming they havent been banned by the no quicker than the guesthouses and is
government. A few hotels still charge per expensive.
page to send or receive messages to their
private email account. Server speeds tend Medical Services
to be frustratingly slow. There are several private and public hos-
Bee Internet Caf (Map p98; 23A Na Wa Day St; per hr pitals in Yangon, but the fees, service and
K750; h8am-11pm) quality may vary. There are also some use-
Cyber World I (Map p98; 4th fl, La Pyat Wun Plaza, 37 ful pharmacies in town.
Ah Lan Paya Pagoda Rd; per hr K800; h9am-9pm) Faster AA Pharmacy (Map p102; %253 231; 142-146 Sule
than most. Paya Rd; h24hr) Just north of Sule Paya.
Cyber World II (Map p102; ground fl, Nay Pyi Daw City Mart Supermarket (Map p98; cnr Anawrahta Rd
Cinema, 246-248 Sule Paya Rd; per hr K1000; h9am- & 47th St) Well-stocked place (tampons available) that
9pm) Busy and frequented by foreigners because of its includes a pharmacy.
central location. Global Network Co (Map p102; 155-161 Sule Paya Rd;
Internet Caf (Map p102; 3rd fl, Myanmar Shopping h24hr) Pharmacy just north of Sule Paya and opposite
Mall, 143-149 Sule Paya Rd; per hr K1000; h10am-9pm) AA Pharmacy.
Modern and plush with caf attached. International SOS Clinic (Map p86; 24hr alarm centre
Planet Internet Caf (Map p98; 5th fl, 220-222 Bo Ta %667 879; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; h24hr) On the
Taung Pagoda Rd; per hr K1000; h8.30am-9pm) Close to ground floor of the Renaissance Inya Lake Hotel, this is
several midrange hotels. your best bet in Yangon if you want medical attention.
May Pharmacy (Map p102; 542 Mahabandoola Rd;
Laundry h24hr) Near the SOS, on the northwest corner of
Almost all of Yangons budget and mid- Pansodan St.
range guesthouses and hotels offer inex- Pacific Medical Centre & Dental Surgery (Map p90;
pensive laundry services including ironing %548 022; 81 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) Recommended.
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 89
Money like most other places, should be double-
YA N G O N
Because you can pay for your taxi from the checked.
airport to the city in US dollars theres no
reason to change money in the terminal. Travel Agencies
Most hotels and guesthouse sell kyat for Most visitors to Myanmar only use private
rates slightly lower than the usual street domestic travel agencies to book a tour, hire
rate. One hotel in particular known to offer a car or book a domestic flight (air ticket
competitive rates is the Central Hotel (Map p102; prices are usually cheaper through a private
335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) near Bogyoke Aung travel agency). However, of the more than
San Market. The market itself has a fair 100 enterprises in Yangon calling them-
number of moneychangers who generally selves travel agencies, only a handful can
offer the highest rates; odds are youll be be considered full-service, experienced tour
approached by one of them if you wander agencies.
down the centre aisle. Ask around before Among the more reliable agencies are the
you go to establish the going rate. You following:
should not pay any commission or tip for Columbus Travels & Tours (Map p98; %229 245;
their services. www.travelmyanmar.com; 586 Strand Rd) Its on the
A few of the top-end hotels including the corner of Strand Rd and 7th St. Theres also a branch
Sedona Hotel (Map p90; 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd) and office on the 3rd floor of the Sakura Tower across from the
Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel (Map p98; 33 Ah Lan Traders Hotel.
Paya Pagoda Rd) accept credit cards; Visa and Diethelm Travel (Map p86;%527 110; leisure@
MasterCard more likely than others. And a diethelm.com.mm; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd)
few will give guests cash advances on their Exotissimo Travel (Map p102; %255 266; www
cards. Any transaction with plastic involves .exotissimo.com; 3rd fl, Sakura Tower, 339 Bogyoke Aung
commissions from 3% to 12%. San Rd)
Travellers cheques are even less likely to Free Bird Tours (Map p102; %245 489; www.freebird
be recognised as legal tender. Again, only a tours.com; 357 Bo Aung Gyaw St)
few hotels accept them, and they charge a Good News Travel (Map p102; %09-511 6256;
hefty commission. [email protected]; 4th fl, FMI Centre, 380
Bogyoke Aung San Rd) The owner, William Myatwunna, is
Post extremely personable and knowledgeable. Recommended.
DHL (Map p102; Traders Hotel, 1st fl, 223, Sule Paya Rd; Gulliver Tours & Travel (Map p90;%526 100; gul-
h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) [email protected]; 51B Inya Maing Rd)
Main post office (Map p102; Strand Rd; h7.30am- Insight Myanmar Tourism (Map p98; %297 798;
6pm Mon-Fri) A short stroll east of the Strand Hotel. [email protected]; 85-87 Thein Byu Rd, Botataung
Stamps are for sale on the ground floor but go to the 2nd Township)
floor to send mail. Myanmar Himalaya Trekking (Map p90; %227 978;
www.myanmar-explore.com; Rm 226, Summit Parkview
Tourist Information Hotel)
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Map p102; %275 New Horizons Travels & Tours (Map p90;%542 949;
328, tourist information %282 075; 77-91 Sule Paya Rd; [email protected]; 64 B2R Shwe Gon Plaza)
h8.30am-5pm) is a government-run travel Santa Maria Travel & Tours (Map p102; %254 625;
agency on the corner of Mahabandoola Rd www.myanmartravels.net; 195-B 32nd St)
and across the street from Sule Paya, which Tour Mandalay (Map p98; %294 729; www.tour
seems modern compared to the MTTs of- mandalay.com; 2nd fl, 194-196 Mahabandoola Rd)
fices. The staff is as enthusiastic as Soviet Woodland Travels (Map p98; %202 071; www
bureaucrats though they will provide ba- .woodlandtravels.com; 422-426 Strand Rd, 7 FJV
sics such as schedules for Myanma Airways Commercial Centre)
(MA) and the YangonMandalay railway.
Its not uncommon to be steered towards DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
a private travel agency if your question- Many travellers report being overcharged
ing becomes too demanding and involves double or triple the correct amount when
venturing away from the main tourist buying bus tickets from the kiosks around
quadrangle. Free decent city and country Aug San Stadium in Yangon. No doubt its
maps are available; information from here, not uncommon elsewhere, but it seems

90 YA N G O N S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com
0 1 km
YANGON
YA N G O N
0 0.5 miles

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particularly egregious here where fares are Shwedagon Paya (Map p90; admission US$5; h5am-
not posted and ticket sellers routinely claim 10pm) has achieved iconic status for Yangon
there are only a few seats left for any partic- and, along with Bagan, for the country as
ular route. The truth is, as mentioned in the a whole. However, unlike the monuments
Getting There & Away section (see p123) of those Western cities, the majority of the
there are almost always several bus compa- pilgrims visiting Shwedagon are local, its
nies leaving at about the same time for any meaning deeply religious and rather than
destination. If the ticket sellers refuse to sell being a beacon of the modern, it proudly
you the ticket at or close to the correct price stands for the ancient and timeless. To a
you can always simply show up at the bus foreigner maybe the most exotic element
station before the scheduled departure. of this huge gold bell-shaped temple is how
casually it stands amid the modern and fa-
SIGHTS miliar, or how Burmese who live literally
Shwedagon Paya in its shadow go about their everyday lives
ertigu.ur;" without seeming to register amazement or
Much like the Statue of Liberty in New awe in its existence. If Bagan is special in
York City or the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the part because of its isolation, Shwedagon
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N S i g h t s 91
YA N G O N
INFORMATION Sanpya Zei............................................36 C1 Royal Taj Restaurant.............................71 C1
Alliance Francaise...................................1 B2 Seri Beauty & Health.............................37 B2 Sabai Sabai Thai Restaurant..................72 C2
Cambodian Embassy...............................2 C1 Shwedagon Paya..................................38 B3 Sandys Myanmar Cuisine....................73 C3
German Embassy....................................3 C2 Tatmadaw Boat Club............................39 B1 Sei Taing Kya Teashop.........................74 C3
Gullivers Tours & Travel..........................4 B2 Yangon International School................40 C2 Sharkeys..............................................75 C2
Italian Embassy.......................................5 B2 Yangon University Swimming Pool........41 B1 Vietnam House Restaurant...................76 C2
Japanese Embassy..................................6 C2 Yangon Zoological Gardens..................42 C3 World Cup............................................77 B2
Kandawgyi Hospital...............................7 D3 Yuzana Plaza........................................ 43 D3 Yadana Garden Restaurant...................78 C2
Korean Embassy......................................8 B1 Yin Dee Thai Restaurant.......................79 B2
Myanmar Himalaya Trekking.............(see 56) SLEEPING Yin Fong Seafood Restaurant...............80 C3
Nepalese Embassy..................................9 D3 Aurora Inn............................................44 A1
New Horizons Travels & Tours..............10 C2 Bagan Inn.............................................45 D2 DRINKING
Pacific Medical Centre & Beauty Land Hotel................................46 C2 Actors Corner Caf............................(see 86)
Dental Surgery.................................11 C1 Guest Care Hotel..................................47 B2 Captain's Bar......................................(see 53)
Vietnamese Embassy............................12 B2 Hotel Nikko Royal Lake Yangon...........48 D3 Frenz Bar & Grill...................................81 C2
Yangon General Hospital......................13 A3 Kandawgyi Palace Hotel.......................49 C3 Mr Guitar Caf.....................................82 C2
Liberty Hotel.........................................50 B2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Motherland Inn 2................................. 51 D4 ENTERTAINMENT
Bogyoke Aung San Museum................14 C2 Mya Yeik Nyo Royal Hotel...................52 C2 Dolphin Seafood Restaurant.................83 C3
Chaukhtatgyi Paya...............................15 C2 Savoy Hotel..........................................53 B2 LakeView Theatre Restaurant.............(see 49)
Hledan Zei............................................16 A1 Sedona Hotel........................................54 C1 Lone Ma Lay Restaurant.......................84 C3
Institute of Medicine.............................17 B1 Summer Palace Hotel............................55 A1
Institute of Myanmar Traditional Summit Parkview..................................56 B3 SHOPPING
Advanced Boxing.............................18 B1 Winner Inn...........................................57 B2 Blazon Centre.......................................85 B2
Judson Church......................................19 B1 Yoma Hotel 2........................................58 B1 Dagon Centre.......................................86 B2
Kohtatgyi Paya.....................................20 A2 Excel Treasure......................................87 C2
Kokine Swimming Pool.........................21 C2 EATING Golden Valley Art Centre......................88 C1
La Source Beauty Spa............................22 B1 Ashoka Indian Restaurant.....................59 B3 Inya Gallery of Art.................................89 B1
Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya..................23 C3 Aung Thuka..........................................60 B2 Mingala Zei..........................................90 D3
Mahasi Meditation Centre....................24 C2 Caf Dibar............................................61 B2 Nandawun............................................91 B3
Martyrs Mausoleum.............................25 B2 Furusato Japanese Restaurant ..............62 C2 San Pya Fish Market.............................92 A2
Mogok Meditation Centre....................26 C2 Green Elephant Restaurant...................63 A1 Thirimingala Zei....................................93 A3
Myanmar Book Centre..........................27 A1 Han Il Kwan..........................................64 B1 Traditions Gallery..................................94 B2
Myanmar TV & Radio Department.......28 B2 Hla Myanma Htamin Zain.....................65 B2 Wingaba Gallery..................................95 C2
Ngahtatgyi Paya...................................29 C2 Karaweik Palace Restaurant..................66 D3
People's Park........................................30 B3 Le Planteur...........................................67 C2 TRANSPORT
Peoples Square....................................31 B3 Maharaja Indian Restaurant...............(see 42) Air Mandalay........................................96 B2
Planetarium..........................................32 B3 Onyx Restaurant...................................68 B2 Hsimmalaik
Pyithu Hluttaw (National Assembly)......33 B3 Padonmar Restaurant............................69 B1 Bus Station......................................97 A1
Resistance Park.....................................34 B2 Royal Garden Htee Dan Jetty
St Augustines Church...........................35 B1 Restaurant.......................................70 D3 (Passenger Ferry to Dalah).............. 98 A2
seems all the more exotic because of the Visible from almost anywhere in the
way it has been domesticated and inter- city, Shwedagon is located to the north of
twined in the physical and mental geogra- central Yangon, between Peoples Park and
phy of the city. Kandawgyi.
In the heat of the day, the stupa glitters The admission fee includes an elevator
bright gold. When the sun sets it casts its last ride to the raised platform of the stupa. Of
rays on the soft orange dome, and a swarm course, like most Burmese, you may walk up
of sparrows migrates from the Shwedagon one of the long graceful entrances. Theres
grounds until their return the following also a US$5 camera fee, not always enforced.
morning. It can be quiet and contemplative, The north gate is especially photogenic at
or colourful and raucous. Kipling called it a night.
golden mysterya beautiful winking won-
der. For Myanmar Buddhists, it is the most HISTORY
sacred of all Buddhist sites in the country, During the Bagan period of Myanmars his-
one which all Burmese hope to visit at least tory (10th to 14th century), the story of the
once in their lifetime. stupa emerges from mists of legend (p92)
The great golden dome rises 98m above its to become hard fact. Near the top of the
base. According to legends, this stupa of the eastern stairway you can see an inscription
solid zedi (stupa; bell-shaped monument) recording the history of the stupa to 1485.
type is 2500 years old, but archaeologists In the 15th century, the tradition of gilding
suggest the original stupa was built by the the stupa also began Queen Shinsawbu,
Mon, sometime between the 6th and 10th who was responsible for many improve-
centuries. In common with many other an- ments to the stupa, provided her own
cient zedi in earthquake-prone Myanmar, it weight (40kg) in gold, which was beaten
has been rebuilt many times and its current into gold-leaf and used to gild the structure.
form dates back only to 1769. Her son-in-law, Dhammazedi, went several
YA N G O N 92 YA N G O N S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com
THE LEGEND OF SHWEDAGON PAYA

The legend of Shwedagon Paya tells of two merchant brothers meeting the Buddha, who gave
them eight of his hairs to take back to be enshrined in Myanmar. With the help of a number of
nat (spirits), the brothers and the king of this region of Myanmar discovered the hill where relics
of previous Buddhas had been enshrined. When the chamber that would house the hairs was built
and the hairs were taken from their golden casket, some quite amazing events took place:
there was a tumult among men and spiritsrays emitted by the Hairs penetrated up to
the heavens above and down to hellthe blind beheld objectsthe deaf heard sounds
the dumb spoke distinctlythe earth quakedthe winds of the ocean blewMount Meru
shooklightning flashedgems rained down until they were knee deepall trees of the
Himalaya, though not in season, bore blossoms and fruit.
Fortunately, hairs of the Buddha are not unveiled every day.

Once the relics were safely enshrined, a golden slab was laid on their chamber and a golden
stupa built on it. Over this, a silver stupa was built, then a tin stupa, a copper stupa, a lead
stupa, a marble stupa and finally, an iron-brick stupa. Or so the legend goes. Later, the legend
continues, the stupa at Dagon fell into disuse and it is said the great Indian Buddhist emperor
Asoka came to Myanmar, finding the site only with great difficulty, and subsequently had the
encroaching jungle cleared and the stupa repaired.
better, by offering four times his own weight be made with the still-independent part
and that of his wifes in gold. He also proof Myanmar.
vided the 1485 historical inscription on the During the 20th century, the Shwedagon
eastern stairway. Paya was the scene for much political ac-
The zedi suffered from a series of earth- tivity during the Myanmar independence
quakes that caused great damage during movement. The huge earthquake of 1930,
this time. In 1612 Portuguese renegade ad- which totally destroyed the Shwemawdaw
venturer Philip De Brito raided the stupa in Bago, only caused minor damage to Shwe-
from his base in Thanlyin and carried away dagon. Less luck was had the following year
Dhammazedis great bell, with the inten- when the paya suffered from a serious fire.
tion of melting it down for cannons. As After another minor earthquake in 1970, the
the British were to do later, with another zedi was clad in bamboo scaffolding beyond
bell, he dropped it into the river. During King Mindons 100-year-old hti, and was
the 17th century, the monument suffered refurbished.
earthquake damage on eight occasions.
Worse was to follow in 1768, when a quake DESIGN
brought down the whole top of the zedi. There are four covered walkways up Singut-
King Hsinbyushin had it rebuilt to virtually tara Hill to the platform on which Shwe-
its present height, and its current configu- dagon stands. The southern entrance, from
ration dates from that renovation. Shwedagon Paya Rd, is the one which can
British troops occupied the compound most properly be called the main entrance.
for two years immediately after the First Here, and at the northern entrance, there
Anglo-Burmese War in 1824. In 1852, dur- are lifts available, should you not feel fit
ing the Second Anglo-Burmese War, the enough for the stroll up the stairs. The west-
British again took the paya, the soldiers pil- ern entrance features a series of escalators
laged it once more and it remained under in place of stairs, and is the only entrance
military control for 77 years, until 1929. In without vendors. The eastern stairway has
1871 a new hti (the umbrella-like decorative the most traditional ambience, passing ad-
top of a paya), provided by King Mindon jacent kyaung (monasteries) and vendors
Min from Mandalay, caused considerable selling monastic requisites.
head-scratching for the British, who were Two 9m-high chinthe (legendary half-
not at all keen for such an association to lion, half-dragon gurardian figures) loom
over the southern entrance. You must associated with stupas is how to change
YA N G O N
remove your shoes and socks as soon as from the square base to the circular upper
you mount the first step. Like the other en- elements? Here, as in many other zedi in
trances, the southern steps are lined with a Myanmar, that transition is achieved with
series of shops, where devotees buy flowers the help of the octagonal sections, which
both real and beautifully made paper ones make a transition from the horizontal de-
for offerings. Buddha images, ceremonial sign of these lower elements to the smooth
paper umbrellas, books, golden thrones, in- vertical flow of the bell.
cense sticks, ivory combs and antiques are The shoulder of the bell is decorated with
also on sale. However hot it may be outside, 16 flowers. The bell is topped by the in-
youll find the walkway cool, shady and verted bowl, another traditional element of
calm. Its this quiet, subdued atmosphere stupa architecture, and above this stand the
on the entrance steps that makes the impact mouldings and then the lotus petals. These
so great as you arrive at the platform. consist of a band of down-turned petals,
You emerge from semi-gloom into a followed by a band of up-turned petals.
visual cacophony of technicoloured glitter The banana bud is the final element of
for Shwedagon is not just one huge, glow- the zedi before the hti tops it. Like the lotus
ing zedi. Around the mighty stupa cluster petals below, the banana bud is actually
an incredible assortment of smaller zedi, covered with no less than 13,153 plates of
statues, temples, shrines, images and taza- gold, measuring 30 sq cm each unlike the
ung (small pavilions). Somehow, the bright lower elements, which are merely covered
gold of the main stupa makes everything with gold-leaf. The seven-tiered hti is made
else seem brighter and larger than life. of iron and again plated with gold. Even
Stupas, indeed all Buddhist structures, without the various hanging bells, it weighs
should be walked around clockwise, so well over a tonne. The hti tiers descend
turn left at the top of the steps and, like the in size from bottom to top, and from the
crowds of locals, start strolling. During the uppermost tier projects the shaft which is
heat of the day, youll probably have to con- hung with gold bells, silver bells and various
fine yourself to the mat pathway laid around items of jewellery. The topmost vane, with
the platform unless your bare feet can take its flag, turns with the wind. It is gold- and
the heat of the uncovered marble paving. silver-plated and studded with 1100 dia-
The hill on which the stupa stands is 58m monds totalling 278 carats not to men-
above sea level and the platform covers over tion 1383 other stones. Finally, at the very
five hectares. Prior to the British takeover of top of the vane rests the diamond orb a
southern Myanmar, there had been Burmese hollow golden sphere studded with no less
defensive earthworks around the paya, but than 4351 diamonds, weighing 1800 carats
these were considerably extended by the Brit- in total. The very top of the orb is tipped
ish, and the emplacements for their cannons with a single 76-carat diamond.
can still be seen outside the outer wall.
The main stupa, which is completely solid, AROUND THE STUPA
rises from its platform in a fairly standard The mighty central zedi, regilded every
pattern. First there is the plinth, which year, is only one of many structures on
stands 6.4m above the clutter of the main the hilltop platform. Reaching the plat-
platform and immediately sets Shwedagon form from the southern stairway (47), you
above the lesser structures. Smaller stupas encounter the first shrine (15), which is to
sit on this raised platform level four large Konagamana, the second Buddha. Almost
ones mark the four cardinal directions, four beside the shrine stand the planetary posts
medium-sized ones mark the four corners for Mercury (31 and 32). If you were born
of the basically square platform and 60 on a Wednesday morning (as was the Bud-
small ones run around the perimeter. dha), then this is your post, and the tusked
From this base, the zedi rises first in three elephant is your animal sign. Continuing
terraces, then in the octagonal terraces and around the plinth, you pass a double-bodied
then in five circular bands together these lion with a mans face, a laughing necro-
elements add another 30m to the stupas mancer with his hands on his head, and an
height. A standard architectural problem earth goddess. At the southwestern corner
94 YA N G O N S h w e d a g o n Pa y a P l a n www.lonelyplanet.com
SHWEDAGON PAYA PLAN

YA N G O N
A B C D
22
5
23
57
9
3
25
16
24 13
2 56 27
18 14
11
19 46 Not to Scale
53
8
35 21 36
39
40
26
45
34
17 29
6
7
3 52 55
50
33 54
2
30
20
41
44 12
10 37
38 15 32
31 43
42 48
28
1
47
49 4
4
51
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mai Lamu & King of the Nats..... 20 B3 Planetary Post for Yahu..............40 B3
5 Banyan Tree.................................1 C4 Northern Adoration Hall............. 21 B2 Prayer Hall (with reclining
Chinese Merchants' Tazaung....... 2 A3 Northern Stairway Landing......... 22 B1 Buddha)................................. 41 A3
Chinese Prayer Hall......................3 B2 Northwestern Corner.................. 23 A1 Prayer Pavilion........................... 42 B4
Curio Museum.............................4 C4 Pavilion (where hti was placed)... 24 B2 Prayer Post Bell.......................... 43 C4
Dhammazedi Inscription...............5 C1 Pavilion (with Indian figures)...... 25 B2 Rakhaing Tazaung..................... 44 A3
Eastern Shrine Hall....................... 6 C3 Pavilion (with tall columns)........ 26 A3 Shan Umbrellas.......................... 45 C3
Eastern Stairway Landing............. 7 C3 Pavilion (with woodcarvings)..... 27 C2 Small Gilded Zedi....................... 46 C2
Eight Day Stupa............................8 B2 Pavilion (with woodcarvings)..... 28 C4 Southern Stairway Landing.........47 B4
Golden Elder Stupa...................... 9 C2 Planetary Posts for Jupiter.......... 29 B3 Stairs to Zedi Plinth.................... 48 B4
Guardian Nat............................. 10 A4 Planetary Posts for Jupiter........... 30 B3 Student Monument....................49 B4
Hair Relics Well..........................11 B2 Planetary Posts for Mercury.........31 B4 Tawa-gu Image......................... 50 C3
Hintha Prayer Post..................... 12 C3 Planetary Posts for Mercury........ 32 B4 Trustees' Office......................... 51 C4
Izza-Gawna Pavilion...................13 C2 Planetary Posts for the Moon.......33 C3 Two-Pice Tazaung..................... 52 A3
King Tharawaddy Min's Bell.......14 C2 Planetary Posts for the Moon......34 C3 Two-Pice Tazaung..................... 53 C2
6 Konagamana Shrine...................15 B4 Planetary Posts for Venus........... 35 B2 U Nyo Pavilion........................... 54 C3
Large Pavilion.............................16 B2 Planetary Posts for Venus........... 36 B2 Western Adoration Hall..............55 B3
Low Pavilion.............................. 17 A3 Planetary Post for Mars...............37 C4 Wish-Fulfilling Place...................56 B2
Maha Ganda Bell....................... 18 A2 Planetary Post for Saturn............ 38 B4 Wonder-Working Image............ 57 A2
Mahabodhi-Style Temple...........19 B2 Planetary Post for the Sun...........39 C2
of the plinth, you reach the planetary post a Buddha image. Between the niches are
YA N G O N
for Saturn (38). Come here if you were born figures of animals and birds they rep-
on a Saturday; your animal sign is the naga resent the eight directions of the compass
(serpent being). The pavilion (42) directly and the associated sign, planet and day of
opposite has 28 images to represent the 28 the week. To get over the small complica-
previous Buddhas. tion of having an Eight Day Stupa and a
Back towards the southwest corner of the seven day week, Wednesday is divided into
platform is a monument (49) with inscrip- Wednesday morning and Wednesday af-
tions in four languages, recounting a 1920 ternoon. The eight days, which can also be
student revolt against British rule. Continu- found with their corresponding planetary
ing around the platform, you come to a glass posts around the main stupa are (from the
case with two figures of nat (10) one is southern entrance):
of the guardian nat (spirits) of Shwedagon
Paya. Close to these figures is a prayer hall Direction Day Planet Sign
(44), quite bare inside, but with fine wood-
carving on the terraced roof. It is known as south Wed am Mercury tusked elephant
the Rakhaing Tazaung, as it was donated by southwest Sat Saturn naga (dragon serpent)
brokers from the Rakhaing (Arakan) coast west Thu Jupiter rat
bordering Bangladesh. An 8m-long reclin- northwest Wed pm Yahu tuskless elephant
ing Buddha can be seen in the next prayer north Fri Venus guinea pig or mole
hall (41). Next to this is the Chinese Mer- northeast Sun Sun garuda
chants Tazaung (2), with a variety of Buddha east Mon Moon tiger
figures in different poses. southeast Tue Mars lion
On the plinth opposite this prayer hall
are figures of Mai Lamu and the king of Close to this small Eight Day Stupa stands
the nat (20), the parents of King Ukkalapa the bell pavilion (18) housing the 23-tonne
who, according to the legend, originally en- Maha Ganda Bell. Cast between 1775 and
shrined the Buddha hairs here. The figures 1779, it was carted off by the British after
stand on top of each other. The western the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1825. The
adoration hall (55) was built in 1841, but British dropped it into the Yangon River
was destroyed in the fire that swept the zedi while trying to get it to the port for ship-
platform in 1931. The planetary posts for ping to England; after repeatedly trying to
the Thursday-born (29 and 30) stand to the raise it from the river bottom, they gave
right and left of this pavilion: your planet up and told the Burmese they could have
is Jupiter and your animal sign is the rat. A the bell back if they could get it out of the
figure of King Ukkalapa can be seen further river. The Burmese placed logs and bamboo
to the left, on the zedi plinth. beneath the bell until it eventually floated
Directly opposite the west adoration hall to the surface.
is the Two Pice Tazaung (52) located at the Venturing back into the open area of
head of the western stairway. The low pa- the platform, you come to the star-shaped
vilion (17) next to the entrance was built by wish-fulfilling place (56), where there will
manufacturers of monastery requirements often be devotees, kneeling down and look-
in contrast to the rather Chinese-looking ing towards the great stupa, praying that
roof. Next along is a pavilion (26), with tall their wishes come true.
columns and the pyatthat (wooden, multi- The large pavilion (16) across from the
roofed pavilion) rising from the upper roof. bell pavilion houses a 9m-high Buddha
Almost opposite this tazaung, at the north- image and is often used for public meet-
western corner of the main zedi, is the plan- ings. Behind this pavilion stands a small
etary post (40) for those born on Wednesday shrine (57) with a highly revered wonder-
afternoon, whose animal symbol is the tusk- working Buddha image covered in gold
less elephant, and whose planet is Yahu leaf. From the northwestern corner of the
(Rahu, a mythical planet in Hindu astrology platform (23), you can look out over some
that allegedly causes eclipses). of the British fortifications and the country
A small stupa with a golden spire (8) to the north of the hill. There are also two
has eight niches around its base, each with banyan trees growing here, one of them
grown from a cutting from the actual tree pavilion (13), the figure off to the left of the
YA N G O N
at Bodhgaya in India, under which the Bud- main Buddha image has eyes of unequal
dha sat and was enlightened. size as a reminder of this unique feat. The
Among the cluster of buildings on this golden Elder Stupa (9) is built on the spot
side of the platform is the Chinese prayer where the hair relics were first placed be-
hall (3), with good woodcarvings and Chi- fore being enshrined in the great zedi. A
nese dragon figures on the sides of the zedi straight line drawn from the centre of this
in front of it. The adjacent pavilion (25) stupa to the centre of Shwedagon would
has life-size figures of Indians guarding pass through the small stupa reputed to
the side and front entrance doors. No-one be the entrance to the passage that leads
quite understands their relevance or that to the relic chamber. Women are not al-
of the very British lions that guard the next lowed to ascend to the platform around
pavilion. the Elder Stupa, which is also known as the
In 1824 a force of Burmese Invulnerables Naungdawgyi Stupa.
fought their way up the northern stairs to Back in the corner of the platform is the
the entrance (22) of the platform before Dhammazedi inscription (5), which dates
being repulsed by the better-armed British from 1485 and was originally installed on
forces occupying the paya. The crocodile- the eastern stairway. It tells in three lan-
like stair bannister dates from 1460. The guages Pali, Mon and Burmese the story
Martyrs Mausoleum of Bogyoke Aung San of Shwedagon.
and his compatriots stands on the western Cast in 1841, King Tharawaddy Mins
side of the hill reached from this stairway. bell is housed in an elegant pavilion (14).
Walking back towards the stupa, you pass The Maha Titthadaganda (three-toned bell)
the pavilion (24) built on the site where the weighs 42 tonnes. Note the ceiling made of
great zedis hti, provided by King Mindon lacquer inlaid with glass. If you look closely,
Min, was placed before being raised to the you can also discern red-billed green par-
zedi summit. The Hair Relics Well (11) was rots nearly hidden in the scrolling among
located at the position of the Sandawdwin the devas (celestial beings). The adjacent
Tazaung (28) and is said to reach right down small pavilion (27) has some good panels of
to the level of the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) woodcarvings. Back on the main platform
River and to be fed from it; the Buddha the planetary post (39) for those born on
hairs were washed in this well before being Sunday (the sun) stands at the northeastern
enshrined in the zedi. In the northern ado- corner of the stupa platform. The bird-like
ration hall (21), the main image is of Gau- creature beneath the post is the garuda of
tama, the historical Buddha. On either side Hindu-Buddhist mythology, called galoun
of the hall stand planetary posts for Friday by the Burmese. Further around you will
(35 and 36), domain of the planet Venus, and see golden Shan umbrellas (45) among the
the guinea pig or mole. plinth shrines; there is also one over the
Modelled after the Mahabodhi temple Friday planetary post near the northern
in Bodhgaya, India, the temple (19) a few pavilion.
steps away is distinctly different from the Facing the eastern stairway, the eastern
general style of buildings on the platform. shrine hall (6) is said to be the most beautiful
A small gilded zedi (46) stands next to this on the platform. It was renovated in 1869,
temple, and next again is another two-pice but destroyed by the 1931 fire and subse-
tazaung (53) enshrining a 200-year-old Bud- quently rebuilt. The main image is that of
dha image. An opening behind this image Kakusandha, the first Buddha. The eastern
is, according to legend, the entrance to a stairway (7) is the longest and is lined with
passage that leads to the chamber housing shops selling everyday articles as well as re-
the Buddha hair relics. Although seen from ligious goods and antiques. On either side,
the two-pice tazaung, the Buddha image is the people who were born on Monday wor-
actually in the adjacent stupa. ship at the planetary posts (33 and 34) ruled
Izza-Gawna (which means goat-bullock) over by the moon and the tiger.
was a legendary monk whose powers ena- The graceful U Nyo pavilion (54), beside
bled him to replace his lost eyes with one the eastern entrance, has a series of interest-
from a goat and one from a bullock. In his ing woodcarved panels illustrating events
in the life of Gautama Buddha. The prayer The golden zedi is unusual in that its oc-
YA N G O N
post (12) close to the southeastern corner tagonal shape continues right up to the bell
of the zedi is topped by a mythological and inverted bowl. It stands 46m high and
hintha bird. An interesting bell (43) hangs is surrounded by small shops and all the
near this prayer post. Opposite these on the familiar nonreligious activities that seem to
zedi plinth is the planetary post for Tues- be a part of every zedi in Myanmar. Besides
day (37), presided over by the lion and the its significance as a landmark and meeting
planet Mars. place, maybe its most mundane function is
In the corner of the platform stands an- as a milestone from which all addresses to
other sacred banyan tree (1), also said to be the north are measured.
grown from a branch of the original tree
under which Gautama Buddha gained en- Botataung Paya
lightenment in India. There is a good view biul'teq;='.ur;"
from this corner of the platform over Yan- One of Yangons big three payas, and said
gon and across the Yangon River towards to contain hair relics of the Buddha, the
Thanlyin. On a clear day, you can see the Botataung Paya (Map p98; Strand Rd; admission US$2)
Kyaik-khauk Paya, just beyond Thanlyin. was named after the 1000 military leaders
The paya trustees have their office (51) on who escorted relics of the Buddha to Myan-
this side of the platform, and theres also mar from India over 2000 years ago (Bo
a small curio museum (4). In front of the means leader, usually in a military sense and
museum is a pavilion (28) with very fine tataung means 1000). For one six-month
woodcarvings. There is also a revolving hti period this paya is said to have harboured
and a telescope, possibly for looking at the all eight strands of the Buddhas hair before
real hti on top of the zedi. they were distributed elsewhere. Of course
Beside the southern shrine (15), the first its not breathtaking like Shwedagon or
stop on this circular tour, stairs (48) lead up striking for being so out-of-place like Sule
onto the zedi plinth. With permission from Paya, however Botataungs spacious river-
the paya trustees, men only are allowed to front location and elements of kitsch make
climb up to the plinth terrace. Men come it worth visiting.
up here to meditate; the terrace is about 6m Its proximity to fresh air and the Yangon
wide a circular walkway between the great wharves were less fortuitous when a bomb
zedi and its 68 surrounding zedi. Behind from an Allied air raid in November 1943
the eastern shrine is a Buddha image (50) scored a direct hit on the unfortunate paya.
known as the Tawa-gu, which is reputed to After the war, the Botataung was rebuilt in
work miracles. a very similar style to its predecessor, but
with one important and unusual difference:
Sule Paya unlike most zedi, which are solid, the Bota-
zU"el.ur;" taung is hollow, and you can walk through
Its not every city whose primary traffic cir- it. Theres a sort of mirrored maze inside
cle is occupied by a 2000-year-old golden the stupa, with glass showcases containing
temple. Surrounded by government build- many of the ancient relics and artefacts,
ings and commercial shops, the tall zedi at including small silver-and-gold Buddha im-
Sule Paya (Map p102; cnr Sule Paya & Mahabandoola Rds; ages, which were sealed inside the earlier
admission free) is another example of the strange stupa. Reconstruction also revealed a small
incongruity of the Yangon cityscape. Its not gold cylinder holding two small body relics
everywhere you check the Internet and visit and a strand of hair, said to be that of the
a shrine said to contain a hair of the Buddha Buddhas, which is reputedly to still be in
in the space of a few blocks. The central the stupa. Above this interesting interior,
stupas name, Kyaik Athok, translates in the golden stupa spire rises to 40m.
the Mon language as the stupa where a Sa- To the western side of the stupa is a hall
cred Hair Relic is enshrined. As with many containing a large gilded bronze Buddha,
other ancient Myanmar shrines, it has been cast during the reign of King Mindon Min.
rebuilt and repaired many times over the At the time of the British annexation, it was
centuries, so no-one really knows exactly kept in King Thibaw Mins glass palace, but
when it was built. after King Thibaw was exiled to India, the
YA N G O N
0 500 m
INNER YANGON 0 0.3 miles
Zoological
Zo
A B C D Garden
E F
Shw
77 28 68
60 25
ological
e Da
St 12 11 ng St Daw Thein Tin
18 in Gau St
e iktha 15 36 M
gon
6 su Y
Taw
Bo Mya Yar Gon St
aung
Bo Y
22
Gar den
Pyid 49
Mingala
St
in
Pago
Win
1
ar N
on M 14 Taung
87th St
91st St
90th St
94th St
St
Kin Wyi St
Shan Rd G Nyunt
yunt
da R
d
Ka
St
Kha
n Rd 33 Myanma Gon Yi St
nT
UW
tama Za Ga War Rd St
aw
Than 1 r Rd ra
Yae
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a Wa Myoma Pan T Ga
Ah
Za G la
Ground yS
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5 29
101st St
Rd
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Upper Pansodan St
Rd
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St
Pyay Rd
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56 g
Pyay
St 64 42
98 YA N G O N I n n e r Ya n g o n
un
Rd
Pa
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73
go
27
Rd
Go y St 78 da Stadium Bo Min
a Da
Gyo Byu
St
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Lo
in Samon Rd 43 Na W 44

w
Hn 58
St
41 21
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72 52 n
4 S t
Ky
zundaung R
Ge e Kun Ch a
U Pho Kyar
Min Ye Kyaw Swar Rd
ee
Min Rd
Lanmada Yaw 74

M
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yin
2 D 48 17 24 51 Ky
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ai
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Lanma Daw St
Upp er Pa
t
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38
55
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P
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Bogyoke Aung San Rd
Ga akh
71 Thakhin Bogyoke Aung San Rd
Lo azu
Mya Park
w nd
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23
n g
69 30 Thayettaw 76
War Dan St
Rd
Kyaung 39 50 67 40
Anawrahta Rd 37

1st St
7 62
3rd St
19
Sule Paya Rd
5th St
7th St
47
9th St
Lanthit St
11th St
21st St
45
13th St
19th St
Dan Rd
15th St
Hledan St
83
17th St
23rd St
50th St
Kaingdan St
51st St
46th St
47th St
48th St
49th St
3
Bo Aung Kyaw St
52nd St
59 80
56th St
54th St
55th St
53rd St
Lanma Daw St
Thein Byu Rd
Mahabandoola Rd
66 53
Phoone Gyee St
65 Mahabandoola Rd
Str 70 46 2
and 75 79
Sin Oh
Shwe Taung Tan St

84 Rd 54 63
16 31

86 9
Latha St
Madaw Rd
Bo Ywe Rd
83 57
Bo Myat Tun St
85 87
Merchant St 20
41st St
89 Merchant St
Bo Ta Htaung Pagada Rd
32 35 34
Bogalay Zay St
90 13 Botataung
Bo Ta Htaung Zay Rd
Stra
nd 10
Rd
44th St
Strand Rd
Yang
o n
4 River
26
See Central Yangon Map p102-3

88 81
www.lonelyplanet.com
INFORMATION Ministry of Foreign Affairs.....................33 B1 Lucky Seven Teashop............................67 F3
YA N G O N
Alliance Francaise...............................(see 11) Ministry of Railway Maharaja Indian Restaurant..................68 D1
American Center.....................................1 B1 Transportation................................ 34 E4 Maw Shwe Li Restaurant......................69 A3
Ava Laundry...........................................2 E3 Ministry of Transport............................35 E4 Night Market......................................(see 75)
AWB Bank..............................................3 B3 National Museum..................................36 B1 Singapores Kitchen..............................70 B3
Bee Internet Caf...................................4 D2 Salvation Army Church.........................37 E3 Western Park Restaurant......................71 A2
Central Womens Hospital......................5 A1 Shwe Pon Pwint Paya...........................38 F2
Chinese Embassy....................................6 A1 Sikh Temple..........................................39 E3 DRINKING
City Mart Supermarket............................7 F3 Sri Devi.................................................40 F3 J's Bistro & Bar...................................(see 77)
Columbus Travel & Tours........................8 B3 Than Zei (Market).................................41 B2 Ritz Caf..............................................72 C2
Cyber World I....................................(see 78) Theinbyu Zei (Market)..........................42 E2
East Yangon General Hospital.................9 F3 Yangon Swimming Pool.......................43 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
FJV Commercial Centre.........................10 F4 National Theatre...................................73 C2
French Embassy.....................................11 B1 SLEEPING Pioneer Club.......................................(see 56)
Indonesian Embassy..............................12 B1 Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel...............44 D2 Thamada Cinema................................. 74 D2
Insight Myanmar Tourism.....................13 E4 Haven Inn.............................................45 F3
Lao Embassy.........................................14 B1 Lai Lai Hotel..........................................46 B3 SHOPPING
Malaysian Embassy...............................15 B1 Ocean Pearl Inn....................................47 F3 Iron Bazaar...........................................75 C3
Myanma Agricultural Bank....................16 B3 Panda Hotel..........................................48 B2 Ivy Gallery.............................................76 E3
New Yangon General Hospital..............17 B2 Pansea Yangon.....................................49 A1 J's Irrwaddy Dream...............................77 A1
Pakistani Embassy.................................18 B1 Queen's Park Hotel...............................50 F3 La Pyat Wun Plaza...............................78 D2
Planet Internet Caf..............................19 F3 Sakhantha Hotel.................................. 51 D2 Lucky 7................................................79 C3
Police Station........................................20 F4 Thamada Hotel.................................... 52 D2 Twenty One.........................................80 C3
Rubyland Tourism................................21 D2 Three Seasons Hotel.............................53 F3
Sri Lankan Embassy...............................22 B1 YMCA..................................................54 E3 TRANSPORT
Tour Mandalay...................................(see 66) Yoma Hotel..........................................55 E2 Botataung Jetty.....................................81 F4
Woodland Travels..............................(see 10) Yuzana Garden Hotel........................... 56 D2 City Bus Ticket Offices
Yangon General Hospital......................23 C2 (Long Distance Buses).....................82 D2
Yoma Bank.......................................... 24 D2 EATING Hledan St Jetty......................................83 B3
50th Street Bar & Grill...........................57 F3 Inland Water Transport
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Shop....... 58 D2 Office............................................. 84 B3
Amusement Park..................................25 D1 Chinese Street Stalls.............................59 C3 Kaingdan St Jetty..................................85 B3
Botataung Paya....................................26 F4 Feel Myanmar Food..............................60 B1 Lan Thit Jetty........................................86 B3
Defence Services Museum....................27 C2 Ginza Pan Food Centre........................61 D2 Myanma Five Star Line..........................87 E3
Ein Daw Yar Paya..................................28 B1 Golden Dragon Teashop.......................62 F3 Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL)
English Methodist Church.....................29 D1 Home Sweet Home Restaurant.............63 F3 Cargo Jetty......................................88 E4
Golden Express Ltd...............................30 A3 Ichiban-Kan..........................................64 D2 Pongyi St Jetty......................................89 B4
Kheng Hock Keong..............................31 C3 Indian Street Stalls................................65 C3 Sin Oh Dan St Jetty
Ministry of Communication..................32 E4 Lashio Lay Shan Restaurant...................66 F3 (Vehicle Ferry to Dalah).................. 90 C4
British shipped the image to London. In publicised at all if you cant get to Bago
1951 the image was returned to Myanmar to see the Shwethalyaung, then dont miss
and placed in the Botataung Paya. Also on this colossal image. Fortune-tellers on the
the grounds is a nat (spirit) pavilion con- surrounding platform offer astrological and
taining images of Thurathadi (the Hindu palm readings.
deity Saraswati, goddess of learning and
music) and Thagyamin (Indra, king of the Kaba Aye Paya
nat) flanking the thoroughly Burmese nat km;ea".ur;"
Bobogyi. The world peace zedi was built for the
A short walk from Botataung Paya at Bo- 195456 Sixth Buddhist Synod. The 34m-
tataung jetty, you can watch ferryboats and high stupa (Map p86) also measures 34m
oared water taxis cross the Yangon River. around its base. It stands about 11km north
of the city centre, a little beyond the Re-
Chaukhtatgyi Paya naissance Inya Lake Hotel. This attempt to
ex;k'qp'kI".ur;" construct a modern paya was not terribly
Good thing hes resting because when mag- successful it does not have the same visual
nified to this size the placid features of the appeal of Myanmars older, more graceful
Buddha in repose can start to seem some- stupas. The interior of the monument, how-
what eerie, especially if you begin to imagine ever, is hollow and contains some nice Bud-
what he would look like standing above you. dhist sculptures, including a lei-myet-hna
Monstrous fantasies of the Buddha aside, (four-sided Buddha sculpture).
the reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi (Map
p90; Shwe Gon Daing Rd; admission free), almost as Maha Pasana Guha
large as the enormous figure in Bago, is mh;p:snliu,'gU
impressive. Housed in a large metal-roofed The great cave (Map p86) is a totally artifi-
shed, only a short distance northeast be- cial one, built close to the Kaba Aye Paya. It
yond the Shwedagon Paya, this huge fig- was here that the Sixth Buddhist Synod was
ure is surprisingly little known and hardly held in 195456 to coincide with the 2500th
anniversary of the Buddhas enlightenment. Swedaw St). Not that youd ever know it nor
YA N G O N
The cavern measures 139m by 113m. This should it affect your appreciation of the
enormous cave, which can accommodate paya architecturally but it contains not just
up to 10,000 people, took only 14 months to another tooth relic from the Buddha, but
build; it helps if you have 63,000 labourers. a replica of a relic brought from China in
The cave is still used to hold grand religious 1997 by pilgrims.
ceremonies. The Yau Kyaw Paya is a 30-minute drive
northeast of the city centre, past the Kyaik-
Maha Wizaya ( Vijaya) Paya kasan Paya. Its an interesting complex of
mh;vIjy buildings with tableaux depicting Buddhist
Linked by a pedestrian bridge to the Shwe- legends, pet monkeys, deer and peacocks
dagon complex southern gate, the Maha Wizaya and an interesting museum crammed full
(Map p90; admission K200) is unavoidably dull in of Burmese antiques. The paya is beside the
comparison. Its a rather plain but well- Pazundaung Chaung in a rural setting.
proportioned zedi built in 1980 to commem- At the time of writing, construction was
orate the unification of Theravada Buddhism underway on a replica of the Thatbyinnyu Paya,
in Myanmar. The king of Nepal contributed in the North Okkalapa section of Yangon;
sacred relics for the zedis relic chamber and the Thatbyinnyu is the tallest structure in
Burmese military strongman Ne Win had it Bagan.
topped with an 11-level hti two more levels Kheng Hock Keong (Map p98; Strand Rd) is the
than the hti at Shwedagon. largest Chinese temple in Yangon. Supported
Foreign media and some locals often refer by a Hokkien association, the 100-year-old
to the monument as Ne Wins paya, due to temple is most lively from around 6am to
Ne Wins involvement in the project (a com- 9am when its thronged with worshippers
mon practice among top military figures). offering candles, flowers and incense to the
However, many Myanmar citizens resent Buddhist and Taoist altars within. Old men
this phrase, pointing out that as the zedi was play Chinese checkers in the temple com-
built by donations from the people, it should pound throughout the day.
rightfully be called the peoples paya. The Moseah Yeshua Synagogue (Map p102; 85
26th St), near Mahabandoola Rd, was founded
Other Paya, Temples & Shrines over 100 years ago by Sephardic Jews. In
South of the Chaukhtatgyi Paya, theres a the classic Sephardic style, it contains a
huge seated Buddha image at the Ngahtatgyi bimah (platform holding the reading table)
Paya (Map p90). Its appropriately known as in the centre of the main sanctuary and a
the five-storey Buddha and is located in the womens balcony upstairs. The wooden
Ashay Tawya monastery. In Kyemyindaing ceiling features the original blue-and-white
(also called Kyimyindine and Kemmedine), Star of David motif. Myanmar had around
in the west of the city, theres another huge 2500 Jews a combination of Bnai Israel,
seated Buddha over in the Kohtatgyi Paya (Map Cochin (Indian) and Iraqi heritages until
p90; Bargaryar St); it stands (or sits) 20m high. nationalisation in the 1960s and 1970s, when
There are many monasteries in the vicin- many began leaving the country. Today
ity. Kyemyindaing also has a busy night there are no more than 50 or so Burmese
market. Jews left in Myanmar, but surviving trustees
Near the airport, the Me La Mu Paya (Map maintain the synagogue for the occasional
p86) has a series of images of the Buddha special service given by visiting rabbis from
in his previous incarnations, and a reclin- India or Israel. Caretaker Moses Samuels is
ing Buddha image. The paya is named after happy to talk with visitors and show them
the mother of King Ukkalapa, the founder the nearby Jewish cemetery, with over 700
of the city of Dagon. In Insein, west of the graves dating back to 1856. Look for the
airport, you'll find the five-storey Ah Lain Nga Jewish star above the shops on Mahaban-
Sint Paya (Map p86). doola Rd. The entrance, sandwiched be-
Near the International Buddhist Uni- tween small shops, is around the corner
versity, between Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd and on 26th St.
Thudhamar St, is wedding-cake shaped Swe Several colourful Hindu temples can be
Taw Myat Paya (Buddha Tooth Relic Pagoda; Map p86; found in the centre of the city, including
Sri Sri Siva Krishna (Map p102; 141 Pansodan St), Sri
YA N G O N
Kali (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd), between 26th and TIP
27th Sts, and Sri Devi (Map p98; cnr Anawrahta Rd Ride the lift to the top of the Sakura Tower
& 51st St). These are the centres for the citys (map p102), an office building across from
annual Murugu Festival, famous for colour- Traders Hotel, for the best 360 degree views
ful street processions featuring acts of ritual of the city.
self-mutilation.
National Museum Martyrs Mausoleum
amYi"s;"ptiuk' a;j;n'bim;n'
About 1km north of Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Close to Shwedagon, on a hill offering a
and just south of the Indonesian embassy good view over the city, stands this memorial
is the National Museum (Map p98; %282 563; Pyay (Map p90; Ar Za Nir St; admission US$3; h9am-4pm) to
Rd; adult/child/student US$5/10/10; h10am-4pm), an Bogyoke Aung San and his fellow cabinet
unspectacular, cavernous and quite sparsely officers who were assassinated with him. It
labelled collection. was also here that a bomb set off by North
Nevertheless, you can find a number of Koreans killed a number of South Koreas
interesting exhibits, especially the 8m-high top government officials in late 1983. The
Sihasana (Lion Throne), which belonged to mausoleum itself is only open one day a
King Thibaw Min, the last Burmese king. year 19 July.
There is also a fair range of royal regalia,
much of which was plundered by the Brit- Mahabandoola Garden
ish but later returned (in fact youll find mh;bNlpn'"x
a more impressive Burmese collection in Just southeast of the Sule Paya, this square
Londons Victoria and Albert Museum). urban park (Map p102; admission K50) offers pleas-
Also worth a look are some extraordinarily ant strolling in the city centres heart, es-
intricate examples of 19th-century Burmese pecially in the early morning when the
woodcarving. Chinese come to practise tai chi, and the
Upstairs youll find Burmese archaeo- air hasnt yet filled with traffic fumes. Oc-
logical finds as well as traditional musical cupying the centre of the northern half of
instruments. The 4th floor features about the park is the Independence Monument, an
40 mannequins dressed in the traditional obelisk surrounded by two concentric cir-
dress of various ethnic groups in the coun- cles of chinthe.
try. There are also some excellent old maps For a year or two following the 198890
and modern Burmese paintings. prodemocracy uprisings, the park was oc-
cupied by Burmese soldiers; many of the
Bogyoke Aung San Museum more violent events of the time took place
biul'xYp'ea;='zn'"ptiuk' nearby.
Located in Bahan Township, the quiet and
secluded Bogyoke Aung San Museum (Map p90; Yangon Zoological Gardens
%541 359; Bogyoke Aung San Museum St; admission US$3; rn'kun'tirc;n'wyY;w'
h10am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) is the former home of The monkey pen looks like a concrete cy-
General Aung San and his wife Daw Kin clodrome and the elephants are tethered
Kyi, and contains remnants of another era. in place by heavy chains, nevertheless the
The house itself dates from the 1920s and zoo (Map p90; %72 2134; admission incl gardens K1500;
the rooms, stairway, railings and furniture h6am-4pm) and connecting 0.7-hectare gar-
are fairly intact. There are several old fam- dens (Map p90; %274 244; Kan Yeik Thar St) make a
ily photos, which of course include daugh- popular outing for Myanmar families. The
ter Suu Kyi as a little girl. A glass-encased entrance is opposite the Dolphin Seafood
English-language library reveals the gener- Restaurant on Kandawgyi. Originally de-
als broad interests; titles range from Cav- veloped in 1906 by the British, the sparsely
alry Training, Armoured Cars, a History of landscaped grounds include a couple of ar-
the US, Left-wing Democracy in the English tificial lakes, a playground and a miniature
Civil War and Adam Smiths The Wealth train circuit for kids, and English and Latin
of Nations. labels (even on many of the trees).
CENTRAL YANGON
YA N G O N
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles
A 94 B C D
95 88 58
27 109 97
Bogyoke Aung San Rd
New Bogyoke 40 37 100 Bogyoke Aung San Rd
Market 4
75 96 41 104
72 55 81 91 51 36
1
Bo Aung Kyaw St
59 10
Optometrists
Maha Bandoola Garden St

78 92 87
Sule Paya Rd
Optometrists 15
34th St
35th St
36th St
33rd St

21 12
Open-Air 61
Market 38
Kodak
19 67 74 Express 93 32
Anawrahta Rd 68 73
Theingyizi 53 Anawrahta Rd
7
Plaza 77
34
Bo Sun Pat Rd
85
83 98
29th St
99 57
30th St
39th St
37th St
40th St
38th St
2 11 42
82 63 64
102
24th St
89
48
23 1
39 76
13
80 60
24 17
33 Mahabandoola Rd 29
35 Mahabandoola Rd
46 Sule Paya 28 108 9 69
79
Kon Zay Dan St

70 44 65
26th St
Shwe Bontha St
20
30
Seikkan Thar St
28th St
Bo Aung Kyaw St
27th St
Pansodan St
32nd St
31st St
43
25th St
50 26 101
3
Mahabandoola 54
Garden 18 66
3 56
45 90
5
Merchant St
Strand 84 Merchant St 49
Rd 8
62 47
22 14
86
Ban
k S
t
31
Stra
nd
Rd
25
110
103 52 2 6 16 71
106
4 Strand Rd
Yan
gon
Rive
r
107
105
Tigers and lions and a fair selection of untamed nature or meditative quiet here
both common and scarce Asian animals (in- as the sidewalk surrounding the circumfer-
cluding sambar, leopard, serow, Elds deer, ence of Kandawgyi also runs alongside a
Malayan sun bear, goral, Indian muntjac, busy road. Also known by its literal transla-
great hornbill, python, cobra and the huge tion, Royal (Dawgyi) Lake (Kan), the lake
marsh crocodile) are on display. Unchained seems at its most attractive at sunset, when
elephants carry passengers on three-minute the glittering Shwedagon is reflected in its
rides for K500. A row of large pens in the calm waters; youll find the best sunset view
back house a massive Himalayan giffon, from the lakes eastern edge.
and a few great hornbills among other large Several of the citys embassies, clinics and
birds. smaller hotels are in the lakes vicinity, the
majority north of the lake. Just east of the
Kandawgyi Kandawgyi Palace Hotel, on the southern
kn'etkI" side of the lake, floats a Shin Upagot shrine.
Occupying prime Yangon real estate, this Upagot is a Bodhisattva or Buddhist saint
natural lake (Map p90) close to the city cen- who is said to protect human beings in mo-
tre is a good place for a stroll. Dont expect ments of mortal danger.
INFORMATION Sri Siva Temple.....................................39 A2 DRINKING
YA N G O N
AA Pharmacy.........................................1 C2 Super One Department Store................40 B1 ABC Country Pub.................................80 C2
Australian Embassy................................ 2 D4 Caf Aroma..........................................81 C1
Bagan Bookshop....................................3 D3 SLEEPING Da Best 69 Entertainment.....................82 A2
Bookstalls................................................4 B1 Central Hotel.........................................41 B1 Diamond White Bar............................(see 41)
Bookstalls...............................................5 D3 City Star Hotel......................................42 C2 Emperor Entertainment.........................83 A2
British Council Library...........................(see 6) Daddys Home.....................................43 A3 Golden Triangle Bakery.........................84 B3
British Embassy...................................... 6 D4 Garden Guest House............................44 C3 Mr Brown Caf.....................................85 C2
Camera/Film Shops................................7 C2 Golden Smiles Inn.................................45 B3 Silver Oak Caf....................................86 D3
Central Bank of Myanmar......................8 C3 Mahabandoola Guest House.................46 B2 Strand Bar..........................................(see 52)
Central Telephone & Telegraph Office...9 C2 May Fair Inn.........................................47 D3 Theingi Shwe Yee Tea House...............87 D1
Cyber World II......................................10 C1 Mayshan Guest House.........................48 C2 Zawgyis Caf.......................................88 B1
DHL...................................................(see 55) New Aye Yar Hotel..............................49 D3 Zero Zone Rock Restaurant..................89 A2
Exotissimo Travel................................(see 37) Okinawa Guest House..........................50 B3
Fire Station...........................................11 C2 Panorama Hotel....................................51 D1 ENTERTAINMENT
Free Bird Tours.....................................12 D1 Strand Hotel......................................... 52 D4 Aladdin Recreation Centre................... 90 D3
Global Network Co...............................13 C2 Sunflower Hotel....................................53 B2 Cinemas...............................................91 C1
Good New Travel...............................(see 95) Tokyo Guest House.............................. 54 D3 Nay Pyi Daw Cinema............................92 C1
Indian Embassy.....................................14 C3 Traders Hotel........................................55 C1
Internet Caf......................................(see 98) White House Hotel...............................56 A3 SHOPPING
Inwa Bookshop.....................................15 C1 Ava Tailoring........................................93 C2
Main Post Office.................................. 16 D4 EATING Bogyoke Aung San Market....................94 B1
May Pharmacy.....................................17 C2 999 Shan Noodle Shop.........................57 C2 FMI Centre............................................95 B1
Myanma Foreign Trade Bank................18 C3 Adorns Kitchen.....................................58 B1 Global Tailoring.....................................96 B1
Myanmar Oriental Bank........................19 B2 APK Kitchen Thai Food.........................59 B1 Morning Market...................................97 D1
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)..........20 B3 Bharat Restaurant.................................60 D2 Myanmar Shopping Mall......................98 C2
New Zealand Embassy..........................(see 2) Golden City Chetty Restaurant.............61 C1 Theingyi Zei (Market)...........................99 A2
Santa Maria Travel & Tours...................21 B1 Golden Duck Restaurant.......................62 B3
US Embassy..........................................22 C3 Grand Mee Ya Hta.............................(see 58) TRANSPORT
J Donuts...............................................63 C2 Air France...........................................100 C1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES J Donuts.............................................(see 59) Air Nippon Airways..........................(see 100)
Cholia Jama Mosque.............................23 B2 MacBurger...........................................64 D2 Birman Bangladesh.............................101 D3
City Hall...............................................24 C2 Mandarin Restaurant............................65 C3 Indian Airlines.....................................102 C2
Customs...............................................25 C4 Nan Yu.................................................66 C3 Japan Airlines.....................................(see 95)
High Court Building..............................26 C3 New Delhi Restaurant...........................67 B2 KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines.................. 103 D4
Holy Trinity Cathedral...........................27 A1 Nila Biryani Shop...................................68 B2 Malaysia Airlines.................................104 B1
Immanuel Baptist Church.....................28 C2 Nilar Wins Cold Drink Shop.................69 D2 Myanma Airways.............................(see 103)
Immigration Office...............................29 C2 Okinawa Restaurant.............................70 B3 Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL) Passenger
Independence Monument....................30 C3 Palei Kywe Restaurant..........................71 D4 Jetty............................................... 105 C4
Law Court............................................31 C4 Pizza Corner..........................................72 B1 Myanma Port Authority..................... 106 D4
Methodist Telugu Church.....................32 D2 Shami Food Centre...............................73 C2 Myanmar Airways International.......(see 102)
Moseah Yeshua Synagogue..................33 A2 Shwe Htoo Restaurant..........................74 B2 Pansodan St Jetty...............................107 C4
Mosque................................................34 B2 Tokyo Fried Chicken.............................75 B1 Pick-ups to Thanlyin...........................108 C2
Narsapuri (Moja) Mosque.....................35 B2 Tokyo Fried Chicken.............................76 C2 Silk Air..............................................(see 100)
St Marys Cathedral..............................36 D1 Var Lunch Home..................................77 B2 Thai Airways....................................(see 100)
Sakura Tower.......................................37 C1 Yakiniku Japanese Barbeque.................78 B1 Train Ticket Office..............................109 C1
Sri Kali..................................................38 A2 Yatha Teashop..................................... 79 D3 Yangon Airways Office...................... 110 C4
The eastern side of the lake is dominated brave the powerful sun. There arent many
by a very expensive government-financed opportunities for shade, really only scat-
project including a small park and play- tered umbrellas, popular with young couples
ground for children as well as the fanciful or sneaking a little alone time.
monstrous depending on your taste Ka- Inya is north of the city, stretching be-
raweik, a reinforced concrete reproduction of tween Pyay Rd to the west and Kaba Aye Pa-
a royal barge. Apart from being something goda Rd to the east; certain areas along the
of a local attraction in its own right, the Ka- lakeshore occupied by state guesthouses
raweik (Sanskrit for garuda) the legendary and ministerial mansions are off-limits to
bird-mount of the Hindu god Vishnu is the general public.
also the name of a government-owned res- Before reclusive dictator Ne Win died in
taurant nearby. Traditional dance perform- December 2002, he resided on University
ances are held here in the evenings. Ave at one end of the lake while Aung San
Suu Kyi, who at the time of research was still
Inya Lake under house arrest at No 54, was at the other
a='"y;"kn'' end. For years these two important figures in
Inya Lake itself is hidden from street level contemporary Myanmar history had resided
view a shame as a walk or drive around like powerful nat locked in a battle of wills.
the perimeter reveals only that something
is probably on the other side of the earthen Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems Market
berms. The lake (Map p86) is roughly five mn'm;ekY;k'mYk'ptiuk'NH=' aer;='"pxn'"
times larger than Kandawgyi but to see ac- Just north of Parami Rd, this museum (Map
tual water you must explore on foot and p86; %665 365; 66 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; admission US$3;
104 YA N G O N A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
h9am-5pm Tue-Sun) is meant to impress ACTIVITIES

YA N G O N
starting with the worlds largest sapphire Swimming

that comes from Mogok to the northeast Most of the top-end hotels have pools and
of Mandalay. The sapphire measures 17cm many are open to the public for a few dol-
in height, and is nearly 12kg in weight; lars. Admission to some includes access to
this somehow translates to 63,000 carats. the hotels gyms and saunas. The nicest of
The museum also boasts the worlds largest these are the Sedona (US$5), the Kandaw-
jade boulder, rough ruby, and star sapphire. gyi Palace (US$5) and the Nikko Royal Lake
Other not-so-impressive claims include the (US$5). Three public pools in Yangon charge
only mineral with imperial in its name. fees (usually US$3) for daily use and are gen-
The Gems Market is spread over three erally open from 6am to 8pm:
floors. In a currently poor country famous Kokine Swimming Club (Map p90; %550 034; 34
for valuable resources, the museum offers Sa Ya San St)
an unintended lesson in beauty, politics and Yangon Swimming Club Pool (Map p98; %278 550;
money. U Wi Za Ra Rd) Attached to the He & Me Food Centre &
Music Pub, which offers snacks and drinks in an open-air
Na-Gar Glass Factory setting.
ng:"fn'emmHn'emck'Tu Yangon University Swimming Pool (Map p90;
The glass factory (Map p86; %526 053; 152 Yawgi %531 889; Inya Rd)
Kyaung St, Hlaing Township; admission free; h 9.30-
11am & 12.30-3.30pm) is an interesting place to Running
explore, with lots of hand-blown glass on An informal group does a 3km and 6km run
display, in a surprisingly pleasant indoor- between the Traders Hotel and the Zoologi-
outdoor setting. It was this place that pro- cal Garden/Kandawgyi area every Sunday.
vided the huge, mesmerising eyes of the Inquire at the Traders Hotel (see p110).
reclining Buddha at Chaukhtatgyi Paya (see
p99). Unusual wine glasses, small vases and Traditional Myanmar Massage
the like are also for sale at very reasonable Most top-end hotels offer professional tra-
prices here. Its well worth your while pay- ditional Myanmar massage. Maybe the most
ing a visit. The friendly, giggly owner is decadent is the Strand Hotel (p109) where
usually on hand to give you a tour of the sessions (US$75, 90 minutes) are preceded
workshop. by a soak in a rose-petalsprinkled tub. Silk
The factory isnt signposted, and is well pyjamas are provided. Also try:
hidden down a jungly driveway. Most taxi La Source Beauty Spa (Map p90; %512 381; 1 Shwe
drivers in the downtown area arent famil- Li Rd) Body scrubs, facials, hair salon, and special bridal
iar with the factory, and it definitely helps packages.
if you tell them its located in Hlaing (pro- Seri Beauty and Health (Map p90; %534 493; 103
nounced lie-eng) Township. A taxi from Dhama Zedi Rd; upper body massage US$3) Skilled and
the downtown area should take about 15 friendly. Every eighth massage is free.
minutes one way and cost around K3000
for a return trip. Train Ride
More in the category of sightseeing rather
Other Attractions than transportation, the Yangon Circle Line
Opposite the Shwedagon Paya to the west, (Yangon train station: %274 027; US$1) is a slow
the Peoples Park (Map p90; admission US$3; h7am- moving, not particularly comfortable three-
7pm) is a huge expanse of grass and trees hour trip around Yangon and the neigh-
that is bisected by Peoples Square, a wide, bouring countryside. However, for US$1,
socialist-style pedestrian promenade. Near its a great way to get a quick overview of
a set of fountains just to the south of Peo- the sprawling capital. There are actually
ples Square is a childrens playground area, two trains, one clockwise and one counter-
and in the southeastern corner of the park clockwise, and it takes about three hours to
there are a couple of armoured tanks on complete the loop in either direction. You
display. The entrance to the park is on the can always hop off at any station and take
eastern side, by the Shwedagon Payas west- a taxi back to the city centre. The first train
ern gate. leaves around 6am from platform 6/7 at the
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N W a l k i n g T o u r D o w n t o w n Ya n g o n 105
Central Train Station (Map p98; Bogyoke Aung San Rd) right, in name at least, the highest legal
YA N G O N
and the last trip of the day departs around authority in the land. Continue south on
5pm. Trains depart approximately every 30 Pansodan St, past Merchant Rd to Strand
minutes though not all do the full circuit. Rd, the last east-west thoroughfare before
The train is least crowded on weekends. the Yangon River.
To buy tickets look for the ticket window On your left is the Strand Hotel (6; p109),
next to an oval track map at the eastern end whose restored faade evokes another era
of the station. and whose air-conditioned lobby, caf and
bar make a good rest-stop along the way.
WALKING TOUR Ready to brave the heat and uneven side-
DOWNTOWN YANGON walks again, walk west along Strand Rd for
Start your tour of downtown at the 2200- a block past Pansodan St where youll see
year-old Sule Paya (1; see p97) the geographic the Customs House (7), built in 1915, on one
and commercial heart of the city, and where corner and the Law Court (8), an impressive
the British-designed grid street pattern was looking colonnaded building on the other
centred. After a complete rotation or two both institutions best admired (figuratively)
and visit inside, cross the busy traffic circle from afar. Turn north up Mahabandoola
to the east and youll find the twice rebuilt Garden St or the less pedestrian friendly
City Hall (2). On the next corner further east Sule Paya Rd. On the other side of Merchant
on Mahabandoola Rd is the Immigration Of- St, you cant miss the 50m obelisk, a monu-
fice (3), once one of the largest department ment to the countrys independence stand-
stores in all of Asia. Across the street is the ing in the middle of popular Mahabandoola
Immanuel Baptist Church (4) originally built in Garden (9; p101). This brings you back to the
1885. Continuing east on Mahabandoola, Sule Paya from where you can continue on
take the next right onto Pansodan St where west down Mahabandoola Rd through the
youll see the High Court Building (5) on your chaotic Indian and Chinese quarters (10) of the
11
Bogyoke Aung San Rd Bo Aung Kyaw St

Sule Paya Rd
34th St
35th St
36th St
33rd St

Anawrahta Rd
Theingyizi
Plaza
Bo Sun Pat Rd
29th St
30th St
32nd St
31st St
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles

1
2
Mahabandoola Rd 10 3
Mahabandoola Rd
4
Kon Zay Dan St
Shwe Bontha St
Seikkan Thar St
Bo Aung Kyaw St
22nd St
23rd St
25th St
24th St
28th St
26th St
27th St
Pansodan St
5
37th St
39th St
38th St
42nd St
40th St
41st St
Mahabandoola
Garden
Merchant St
Merchant St
Strand Ban
Rd k S
t
8
7
Stra
Yango nd
Rd 6
n River
Strand Rd
106 YA N G O N C o u r s e s www.lonelyplanet.com
city. Every block along the way is crammed Kawthoung area (p167 for kayaking and boat trips and
YA N G O N
with shops and street vendors selling every- p333 for diving trips)
thing under the sun. Anywhere along the Putao area (see p225) For hiking in the far north of the
way you can turn right, or north, for several country.
blocks until you hit Bogyoke Aung San Rd.
It shouldnt be hard to determine where the FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Bogyoke Aung San Market (11; p121) is from Crowds of pilgrims descend on the Shwe-
here; a nice place to end your walk and begin dagon for a paya pwe (pagoda festival) from
a new sort of tour, a slightly more difficult 29 February to 7 March, one of the more
one that involves walking and shopping at important Myanmar holidays.
the same time. Other major festivals in Yangon include
the following:
COURSES Independence Day (4 January) Includes a seven-day fair
Meditation at Kandawgyi; see p340.
Several monasteries in Yangon welcome Water Festival/Thingyan (April) The Myanmar New
foreigners to meditation courses. For more Year is celebrated by a wet pandemonium. See p340 for
information see p335. more details.
Buddhas birthday (April/May) See p340 ..
Thai Chi & Martial Arts Martyrs Day (19 July) Commemorating the assassination
The art of Tai Chi is practised daily at dawn of Bogyoke Aung San and his comrades. See p341 ..
at Mahabandoola Garden, near the Sule Murugu Festival Held at Yangons Hindu temples (see
Paya. p101), it involves colourful processions.
Burmese kickboxing instruction for be-
ginners is offered on the ground floor of the SLEEPING
YMCA (Map p98; %294 128, 296 435; Mahabandoola Rd, Judging by the number of large top-end
near Thein Byu Rd; hbeginners 7-9am Tue, Thu & Sat, business-style hotels cropping up all over
experienced 3-5pm Mon, Wed & Fri). Theres usually the city, the hospitality industry in Yan-
someone around who can translate the es- gon is alive and well. Low occupancy rates,
sentials, though you should mostly expect though, belie the wisdom of the hotel build-
to learn by example. Techniques taught here ing boom and heavy rebates are to be had
incorporate some moves borrowed from by the savvy traveller. Practically all of the
Thai and international boxing. budget options are located in the busy city
Visitors are welcome to participate in centre area but room rates are high and the
boxing upon becoming members; if youre quality low when compared with budget
staying at the YMCA, youre welcome to accommodation in Mandalay. Its worth
use the facilities for a small donation. In- considering spending a few extra bucks
quire at the main office on the upper floor and taking the jump to midrange accom-
for more information. modation if youre only in the capital for
Saya Pan Thu, founder of the Institute of a night or two.
Myanmar Traditional Advanced Boxing (Map p90; 15 Many of the midrange and top-end hotels
Aung Chan Tha St, Hledan Rd, Kamayut Township) teaches provide airport pick-ups and offer Internet
a more traditional Burmese kickboxing style access and full-service business centres.
on most Saturdays at 4pm at the Yangon Only a few accept credit cards in person
University campus. Pan Thu doesnt speak so its worthwhile booking and paying for
much English, nor apparently do any of his reservations online where rates are often
students. heavily discounted anyway. Even if you do
just show up unannounced youll rarely
TOURS have to pay the advertised price. Some of
Yangon is a good place to organise tours the top hotels add on an additional 10%
to some difficult-to-reach places, including service charge and 10% government tax.
the following. The operators are listed in Almost all hotels, even the mostly lowly
the referenced pages. budget place, will store luggage while youre
Chin State (p329) Includes hikes and bird-watching on away up country.
Mt Victoria in the west of the country. Note: most of the top-end hotels are joint
ventures with the government although the
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N S l e e p i n g 107
exact percentage of ownership whether 14; a) Its a good thing the White House
YA N G O N
the government is a majority or minority rooftop has hammocks and swings and that
shareholder and exactly what this means the views are so spectacular because the
is difficult to ferret out (see p331). steep climb to get here is an aerobic work-
The obvious appeal of the hotels just out. Some of the rooms are weirdly shaped
north of the city centre in the Kandaw- and the design scheme is somewhat funky
gyi area are the breathtaking views of the shards of glass and mirrors and tiles but
Shwedagon Pagoda, especially at night. things are kept clean and the common areas
The lake itself provides a peaceful back- at the top are crowded with potted plants.
drop for several clustered hotels around its Breakfast is better than average and the
shores. The city becomes more suburban front desk is a one stop shop for all your
and spread out the further north you go bus and tour information.
towards Inya Lake. Golden Smiles Inn (Map p102; %373 589; mya
[email protected]; 644 Merchant St; r US$5-12; a)
City Centre Golden Smiles is centrally located, up a flight
The authors choice for this price range can of stairs from a grubby street-level entrance.
be found on p108. Theres nothing outstanding about the eight
basic rooms and lighting can be dim despite
BUDGET the sunny balcony hangout/breakfast area.
Prices quoted generally include a rudimen- All the rooms have air-con, the more ex-
tary eggs-and-toast breakfast. Payment is pensive rooms have private bathroom and
accepted in US dollars, and sometimes kyat. the staff is helpful and friendly.
Street noise, especially in the early morning, May Fair Inn (Map p102;%384 183; mayfair.inn@
is a nuisance at many of the options. mptmail.net.mm; 57 38th St; r US$9; a) This inn
Motherland Inn 2 (Map p90-1; %291 343; www.myan between Merchant and Strand has several
marmotherlandinn.com; 433 Lower Pazundaung Rd; r US$7- clean, carpeted rooms. The modern bath-
13; ai) While the Motherland Inn 2 (the rooms make up for the slight inconvenience
original Motherland has since closed) is a of night-timeonly air-con and hot water.
long walk or a short taxi ride from the cen- The May Fair isnt the place to meet other
tre itself, its one of the best value options travellers and there is no welcoming com-
in this category and is deservedly popular mon area or extra domestic touches despite
with the backpacker set. This well-managed the fact that it is family owned.
hotels modern and green faade is easily YMCA (Map p98; %294 128; 263 Mahabandoola Rd;
noticeable on this quiet residential street. r US$8-19; a) At the time of writing a new
The rooms themselves are simple but ex- nine-story wing was in the works, three
ceptionally clean; several triples with fan floors dedicated to accommodation. Rooms
or air-conditioning are also available. A in the original building are large, sparse and
complimentary airport shuttle runs twice decorated only with concrete but they do
a day and breakfast is outstanding for this have windows a plus in the budget cat-
category. The pricier rooms have private egory. Free transport to/from the airport
bathrooms. is available. Both men and women are wel-
Okinawa Guest House (Map p102;%374 318; 64 come here, although double rooms are os-
32nd St; dm US$5, s/d with bathroom US$10/15; a) tensibly for married couples.
The only downside to the Okinawas six Sunflower Hotel (Map p102; %240 014; sunflower
beautifully furnished all-wood rooms is the [email protected]; 259/263 Anawrahta Rd; r US$8-15;
erratic power supply, which means no hot a) Located in the heart of the busy Indian
water and air-conditioning only at night. If quarter on the corner of Shwe Bontha St
neither are concerns, this distinctive guest- and Anawrahta Rd, the Sunflower offers a
house just a short walk from Sule Paya is an variety of neat if airless and character-free
excellent option; even the attic-level dormi- rooms. The pricier rooms with air-con also
tory room is attractive. Just look for the red have TV.
roof and brick exterior on this otherwise Tokyo Guest House (Map p102; %287 143; 200
nondescript street. Bo Aung Kyaw St; r US$6; a) Though rooms in
White House Hotel (Map p102; %240 780; white this 2nd floor guesthouse are barely large
house@ mptmail.net.mm; 69-71 Kon Zay Dan St; r US$5- enough for a bed and are windowless, they
108 YA N G O N S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
is an especially quiet block at night so you

YA N G O N
THE AUTHORS CHOICE should be able to sleep undisturbed.

Haven Inn (Map p98; %295 500; phyuaung@ Ocean Pearl Inn (Map p98; % 297 007; www
mptmail.net.mm; 216 Bo Myat Tun St; s/d US$10/ .oceanpearlinn.com; 215 Bo Ta Taung Pagoda Rd; s/d US$10/
15; a) Theres no more homey and invit- 15; ai) In the same neighbourhood as the
ing place to retire to after a busy day of Haven and Three Seasons, the newly opened
sightseeing in Yangon. The Haven Inn, an- Ocean Pearl is another high-value option.
nounced only by a small neon sign, is lo- While the rooms dont have as much charm
cated on a relatively quiet street east of the as the other two, there is satellite TV and its
city centre. The five well-furnished rooms kept so clean you can see your reflection in
are often all booked in high season. Each the floor. Not only are the willing-to-please
has air-con, minifridge, large private bath- front desk staff able to book air, bus and
room and comfortable mattresses though train transport but there is 24-hour room
all are window-free. Room 101 is surpris- service for those with late night cravings.
ingly large and includes a desk and sepa- Mayshan Guest House (Map p102; %252 986; may-
rate sitting area. The 1st-floor living room [email protected]; 115-117 Sule Paya Rd; s/d US$15/22;
area and 2nd-floor breakfast space are all ai) Its hard to top the Mayshans loca-
dark wood. Dr Htun, the friendly owner tion, a half a block north of Sule Paya. The
of this family-run retreat, is an excellent vibe is less family and intimate than others,
source of information. nevertheless the small, tiled modern rooms
are well-kept and have satellite TV, a good
way for new arrivals to pass the early morn-
are clean and well-kept and there is a sunny ing jet-lagged hours. Theres a lift and a
breakfast area filled with plants and books. lobby and breakfast area, both good halfway
Bathrooms are shared. points between the privacy of your room
The following are bare-bones and only and the crunch of the outside streets. The
last resorts: Mayshan is also one of the few places where
Daddys Home (Map p102; %252 169; 107 Kon Zay you can access personal hotmail email ac-
Dan St; r per person US$4-10) Only a few doors from the counts (30 minutes for US$3).
White House. New Aye Yar Hotel (Map p102; %256 938; newayar@
Garden Guest House (Map p102; %253 779; 441-445 mptmail.net.mm; 170-176 Bo Aung Kyaw St; s/d US$18/20;
Mahabandoola St; s/d from US$4/6) Fronting Sule Paya. a) One of the best high-rise entries in this
Mahabandoola Guest House (Map p102; %248 104; category, the New Aye Yar has a regal look-
93 32nd St; s/d US$3/5) Also fronting Sule Paya. ing lobby fronted by two stone lion statues
guarding the entrance. Unusual in this price
MIDRANGE range, you get spiffy uniformed porters and
Yangons accommodation options in this a selection of foreign newspapers for pe-
price category have expanded rapidly. Some rusal. All of the large rooms have satellite
hotels will accept credit cards. Almost all TV, fridges and big, inviting bathrooms.
offer discounts in the low season and if you Lower priced rooms have carpeting, while
stay for an extended period of time. The for a few dollars extra you can get one of
two best value choices, as well as the au- the much nicer, newer all wood (floors and
thors choice (see above), are within a few furniture) rooms; some have panoramic
blocks of one another. views of the city.
Three Seasons Hotel (Map p98; %293 304; phy- Thamada Hotel (Map p98; %243 639; thamada
[email protected]; 83-85 52nd St; s/d US$12/20; [email protected]; 5 Signal Pagoda Rd; s/d US$25/30;
a ) Similar in style and appeal to the a) Rooms in this six-storey hotel just
Haven Inn, the Three Seasons is owned by across from the train station and next to the
the same family. If one is full theyll escort cinema of the same name, are surprisingly
you to the other. High ceilings and spotless luxurious. Everything in the bedrooms is
wooden floors are complimented by mod- done in teak with a few special touches such
ern bathrooms and tasteful furnishings. as local artwork and photography. But its
Friendly staff serves up an outstanding the spacious bathrooms that are the real
breakfast part Western, part Burmese standout. Some rooms have baths and those
in the sunny 2nd-floor sitting area. This in the back are quieter.
Panorama Hotel (Map p102; %253 077; panorama@ this 11-storey hotel on the corner of Bo Myat
YA N G O N
mptmail.net.mm; 294-300 Pansodan St; s/d US$22/30; Tun St are decidedly not good value. The
ai) Within walking distance of the train larger, higher priced ones have the standard
station and the Bogyoke market, the aptly amenities in this category. Theres a genera-
named 10-storey Panoramas rooms offer tor to cover frequent power outages and free
good views of downtown Yangon. Its wide airport transfer for groups of six or more.
marble atrium lobby seems slightly dated Central Hotel (Map p102; %241 007; www.myan
and in some of the rooms the carpets are mars.net.central; 335-357 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d US$30/
fraying and the paint is peeling. However, 35; ai) Next to the Traders Hotel and
location and professional and attentive ser- just across the road from Bogyoke Aung San
vice offset these flaws. Market, the Central offers large and clean,
Yoma Hotel (Map p98; % 297 725; yoma.one@ if unremarkable, standard rooms and larger
mptmail.net.mm; 146 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; s/d US$15/18; suites. All rooms have air-con with private
ai) Not as nice as its Yoma 2 counterpart bathroom, fridge and phone. The hotel has a
(p112), the Yoma gets by on its central loca- good Chinese restaurant and a very popular
tion and the business-friendly professional- bar/caf, the Diamond White Bar (p118),
ism of its staff. The quality of the rooms adjacent to the large lobby. The Central is a
themselves varies; some with low ceilings good place to change dollars for kyat.
have seen better days while there are nicer, Sakhantha Hotel (Map p98; %249 518; Yangon Cen-
newer ones too. There are five floors and no tral Train Station; s/d US$15/25; a) Basically a wing
lift. Monthly rates are available on request. of the train station, the Sakhanthas rooms
Queens Park Hotel (Map p98; %296 447; qphotel@ are so big and the ceilings so high that a
mptmail.net.mm; 132 Anawrahta Rd; s/d US$15/22; a train carriage could probably fit inside. You
i) The very small lower priced rooms in dont really need all this space and there
THE STRAND HOTEL

Strand Hotel (Map p102; %243 377; www.ghmhotels.com; 92 Strand Rd; superior ste US$425, Strand ste US$900;
ai) Royalty, both the Hollywood kind and the more traditional, make the Strand their home
away from home in Yangon. Mick Jagger, Oliver Stone, the King of Tonga, George Orwell, Noel
Coward and Somerset Maugham all slept here.
When in Singapore stay at the Raffles, the saying used to go. (Actually it was feed at the Raf-
fles and stay somewhere else, but never mind.) Similarly, when you are in Yangon, the place to
stay, if you can afford it, is this property located between 38th and Seikkan Thar Sts. The Strand
was originally constructed by the Sarkies brothers, of Raffles fame, in 1896, and was one of those
glorious outposts of the British empire early in the 20th century. During WWII it was forced to
close, only to reopen in 1948, under the auspices of Londons Steel Brothers Co.
Ne Win nationalised the property in 1963 and in its latter-day socialist role the Strand became
a run-down shadow of its former self certainly no competition for the well-kept likes of Raffles
or The Oriental in Bangkok. Yet somehow, the old colonial era lived on at the Strand. All of this
changed again in 1991, when Dutch-Indonesian resort impresario Adrian Zecha and his company
began spending US$36 million to renovate the grande dame. By the beginning of 1995, 32 rooms
had been totally redone and opened to the public.
Though well beyond the budget of many visitors to Myanmar as a place to spend the night,
the Strand is well worth a visit for a drink in the bar, high tea in the lobby lounge or a splurge
lunch at the caf. Unlike the Oriental or Raffles, the hotel isnt appended to touristy shopping
malls and souvenir shops. The dcor doesnt bowl you over with a surplus of ornamentation
either, and the staff is more laid-back and less snobbish to nonguest visitors.
Each suite here is elegantly finished in the colonial style, with plenty of brass and teak and
all the amenities expected at hotels of this calibre. The renovated guest rooms are divided into
eight superior suites, 23 deluxe suites and one apartment-like Strand Suite. To all rates, add
the mandatory 20% tax and service. Among the public facilities are a dinner-only restaurant, an
opulently finished bar decorated with local art, a caf and a small business centre. All guests
are met at the airport.
110 YA N G O N S l e e p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
isnt enough furniture to justify its size but rooms have balconies facing the front. The
YA N G O N
this plus its colonial-era style makes it a Pioneer (p120), a popular nightclub is at
unique choice. the rear of the building.
Both the City Star Hotel (Map p102; %250 291;
www.citystarhotel.com; 169/171 Mahabandoola Garden St; Shwedagon & Kandawgyi Area
s US$20-25, d US$25-30; a) and the Lai Lai Hotel This area of the city is generally quieter
(Map p98; %227 878; fax 227 342; 783 Mahabandoola than central Yangon. Its also convenient
Rd; s/d US$15/25; a) are modern Chinese-style for walking to Shwedagon Paya, the zoo
high rises in the heart of Yangon. Higher and Kandawgyi. Its not a place to seek out
priced rooms have windows with good budget accommodation.
views of the chaos below.
MIDRANGE
TOP END Winner Inn (Map p90; %535 205; www.winnerinn
Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel (Map p98; %250 388; myanmar.com; 42 Than Lwin Rd; r US$20-25; ai) The
www.grandplaza.yangon.parkroyalhotels.com; 33 Ah Lan Winner is a low slung building thats at-
Paya Pagoda Rd; s/d US$60/70; ais) A swanky tached to a four-storey wing between Inya
350-room hotel just north of the city centre, Lake and Shwedagon Paya. Rooms are very
it comes complete with wood and rattan good value, complete with private bath-
furnishings, Japanese and Chinese restau- room, fridge and satellite TV; there is a din-
rants, caf, disco/pub, business centre, fit- ing room overlooking the garden. Higher
ness centre and tennis court. Rooms here priced rooms are larger.
are exceptional value, especially if on one Guest Care Hotel (Map p90; %511 118; www.guest
of the floors with a combo business centre, carehotel.com; 107 Dhama Zedi Rd; s/d US$24/32; ai)
library and lounge. At the time of research All guests at the Guest Care have access to
the Grand Plaza Park Royal was accepting the top floor viewing area with spectacu-
Visa cards, and was also allowing guests to lar unobstructed views of the nearby Shwe-
withdraw cash with their cards for 8% com- dagon Pagoda. Rooms at this hotel are kept
mission; travellers cheques are changed for spick and span. Larger rooms have sitting
only 3% commission. areas and some touches of antique furni-
Traders Hotel (Map p102; %242 828; fax 242 800; ture; all have satellite TV and minifridges.
www.shangri-la.com; 223 Sule Paya Rd; r US$70-75, ste Mya Yeik Nyo Royal Hotel (Map p90; %548 310;
US$110; ais) Because of its imposing www.myayeiknyo.com; 20 Pa-le Rd; r US$35, r in old bldg
22 storeys and 500 rooms, and because its US$100; ais) There are two very dif-
anchoring one of the busiest street corners ferent Mya Yeik Nyos right next to one
in the city, Traders has achieved landmark another. One is a modern, slightly kitschy
status. This hotel, part of the Shangri-La looking four-storey building, the other is
chain, enjoys a reputation for good service a stately, old mansion built by the British
and is popular with conferences and busi- as an office for the legendary Irrawaddy
ness meetings. It has a very decent book/gift Flotilla Company (IFC). The rooms in the
shop, business centre, fitness centre and ex- former are large and comfortable though
cellent restaurant and bar facilities. All rates the furniture is mismatched and feels like
include breakfast, airport transfer, laundry a 70s-era suburban living room. Grand
and local phone calls. Traders also has a free restoration plans for the latter include six
laundry service and a generous check-out massive incredibly unique rooms filled with
time of 6pm. Significant discounts can be local handicrafts and sculptures and lit by
found online. elegant chandeliers. The MYN Royals land-
Yuzana Garden Hotel (Map p98; %248 944; 44 scaped grounds afford clear views of the
Signal Pagoda Rd; s/d US$36/48; ais) From Shwedagon Paya.
a distance the colonial faade looks grand Bagan Inn (Map p90; %541 539; pinegrp@mptmail
and impressive but, like an ageing movie .net.mm; 2 Nat Mauk Ln 29 Po Sein Rd; s/d US$40/60;
star, reveals its wrinkles and cracks upon a) This is a well-managed place sitting
closer inspection. The lobby was probably in its own large, landscaped compound
elegant in its day and the oversized rooms on a quiet street, just north of Kandaw-
are attractive though some are a little mil- gyi. Owned by Hong Kong Chinese, the
dewy and need a touch-up. More expensive inns 25 rooms, in three separate two-storey
buildings, are large and nicely decorated. to walk from your room to the bar or one
YA N G O N
All rooms feature fridge, TV and phone; of the excellent restaurants on the 2nd floor
there are also more expensive suites. Rates (see p117). Most of the rooms have windows
include laundry service. that open out onto the pool area.
Summer Palace Hotel (Map p90; %527 211; fax Kandawgyi Palace Hotel (Map p90; %249 255;
525 424; 437 Pyay Rd; s/d US$20/25; ais) The www.kandawgyipalace.com; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; s/d US$80/90;
Summer Palace, set back from the road near ais) Architecturally, the Kandawgyi
the Myanma TV and radio broadcast sta- Palace looks like an extension of the nearby
tion, is a diminutive version of one of the Shwedagon Paya, blending seamlessly into
larger top-end hotels in the city. Its only the fairytale vistas from the lake shore.
six-storeys and 56 rooms but has an ef- Rooms are mostly teak and wicker and if
ficient business centre, professional service you stay in one of the paya-side suites the
and a small swimming pool and bar at the windows frame the scene like a picture post-
rear. card. The hotel has several fine restaurants
Panda Hotel (Map p98; %212 850; www.myanmars with Burmese, Asian and also European fare
.net/pandahotel; 205 Wadan St; s US$20-25, d US$25-30; (see p116), including a nightclub and 24-
ai) This 13-storey high-rise west of the hour coffee shop. There is also a business
city centre, is another high quality business- centre and a beautiful outdoor swimming
oriented midrange hotel in a residential pool guarded by a giant stone dinosaur. For
area. Rooms have all the standard ameni- those with royal fantasies, there are several
ties, plus some have excellent views and amazing bungalows with private Jacuzzi,
theres a small gym. It offers free airport pool and butler service.
transfers. Summit Parkview (Map p90; %211 888; www
.summityangon.com; 350 Ahlone Rd; s/d US$50/55, studio
TOP END ste US$220/230; ais) A top choice among
Pansea Yangon (Map p98; %229 860; www.pansea business travellers, it stands within walking
.com; 35 Taw Win St; s/d US$150/170; ais) To distance of Shwedagon Paya. The volumi-
truly be pampered and live like a sovereign nous marble lobby is designed to impress;
on holiday, this elegant teak mansion in the the hotels 252 rooms come with satellite
leafy embassy district is for you. The Pansea TV, in-house movies and 24-hour room
was once a guesthouse for important na- service; suites and studio suites cost more.
tionals of the Kayah ethnic group visiting In addition to a useful hotel clinic and dis-
the city, but now after a masterful restora- pensary, the Summit features a fitness cen-
tion its a foreigners ideal of colonial luxury. tre, newsstand, hair salon, shopping arcade,
In the 2nd-floor open-air lounge area with several travel agents, a bakery/caf and also
bar and pool table, and most especially the a restaurant.
rooms, everything is wood and handicrafts Hotel Nikko Royal Lake Yangon (Map p90; %544
and paintings set off with soft plush cush- 500; www.nikkoyangon.net; 40 Nat Mauk Rd; superior
ions and bright colours. Its a feast for the s/d US$90/100, deluxe US$120/140; ais) This
senses and is worth a visit even if youre not large, imposing hotel overlooking Kandaw-
an overnight guest. Theres an excellent res- gyi has none of the charm or character of
taurant, Mandalay (p116), serving French other hotels in this price range. It does have
and Asian cuisine in a pond-side setting. all the amenities youd expect: a business
Savoy Hotel (Map p90; %526 289; www.savoy centre with secretarial service, a fitness cen-
-myanmar.com; 129 Dhama Zedi Rd; s/d US$90/135; tre and large pool (K1500 for nonguests), a
ais) Everything inside the Savoy is grand ballroom, a very good Japanese res-
done so perfectly that its easy to forgive taurant and a brasserie serving excellent
the fact that its situated right on a busy Bamar, Mediterranean and Thai cuisine.
street corner with heavy traffic. A cross be-
tween the Pansea and a smaller version of North & Inya Lake Area
the Strand, the Savoy is excellent value in The remainder of the hotels are well north
this category. Hallways, rooms and even the of the city centre; the majority are along
lavish bathrooms are stocked with photo- or just off Insein Rd or Pyay Rd, which
graphs, antiques, handicrafts and sculptures, are both long avenues running north to
all of museum quality and its a pleasure just south.
112 YA N G O N E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
MIDRANGE s) The Renaissance is a 239-room com-

YA N G O N
Aurora Inn (Map p90; %525 961; fax 525 400; 37A plex, about 6km north of the city centre on
Thirimingalar St; s US$10-15, d US$20-30; a) Hid- 37 acres of landscaped grounds near Inya
den down a narrow street off Pyay Rd, this Lake. Its not much to look at from the out-
French-managed place encompasses two side but the facilities and rooms are fairly
older buildings; the one at the back is dec- sumptuous and elegant. Theres an excellent
orated with antiques and contains a snack fitness centre, tennis courts, business centre
bar. Rooms are spacious, and the more ex- and several restaurants and cafs. The Dusit
pensive rooms have air-con. The attached Inya frequently hosts conferences and ban-
restaurant serves good French cuisine. quets. Room rates are excellent value for a
Yoma Hotel 2 (Map p90; %531 065; 24A Inya Rd; top-end Yangon hotel.
s/d US$21/28; ai) A small, 17-room hotel
that, like its Yoma 1 counterpart, it is very EATING
service-oriented and a popular spot in this Yangon is the culinary capital of the coun-
price range with business travellers. Lower try. From street food, to cheap Bamar and
long-term rates are available. Indian eateries, to high-end restaurants with
Shwe Hinthar Inn (Map p86; %533 295; roswin creative chefs serving European, Thai, and
[email protected]; 51 Pyay Rd; s/d US$30/40; as) Japanese cuisine, eating is an unexpected
Its a converted colonial building offering 18 highlight of a visit to the city. Eat early by
well-appointed rooms on spacious grounds; 10pm all but a couple of 24-hour places, a
rates include continental breakfast. There few large hotel cafs and the Strand will be
is a large garden and poolside bar on the ready to close. There are also a few music
grounds. Its near the northern end of Inya clubs/cafs that serve food until 11pm.
Lake, next to the Philippine embassy.
Royal White Elephant Hotel (Map p86; %503 Bamar
986; [email protected]; 11/15 Kan St, 6 miles; s/d US$20/ Eating options outside Yangon are limited
24; a) This place is near Inya Lake off Pyay to mostly Bamar cuisine so many travellers
Rd. Its a four-storey building with elevator take advantage of the relative diversity and
and receives raves for its friendly service. hold off on Bamar cooking until they leave
However, the spacious, carpeted rooms are the capital. While this is an understandable
beginning to wear around the edges. strategy to keep the taste buds guessing, it
Liberty Hotel (Map p90; %525 974; fax 524 144; 343 would be unfortunate as there are several
Pyay Rd; s/d US$24/28; a) Near the Hanthawady Bamar restaurants more interesting than
roundabout in an elite residential neigh- those upcountry.
bourhood is this two-storey colonial man-
sion converted to a hotel. The rooms are
large and high-ceilinged, and theres also THE AUTHORS CHOICE
a much larger family room. Theres a nice Sandys Myanmar Cuisine (Map p90; %525
garden out back. 195; 290 U Wi Za Ra Rd; vegetable entrees K1500,
meat entrees K3000) Theres no better place
TOP END to try Bamar cooking than at Sandys over-
Sedona Hotel (Map p90; %666 900; www.sedona looking serene Kandawgyi. The colonnaded
myanmar.com; 1 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; r US$75; ais) colonial building and outdoor patio seat-
Towering over Inya Lake, the Sedona is a big ing heighten the surprisingly affordable
conventional hotel. There are no real special dining experience. Try the BeOu-Pazun-
touches or acknowledgments that this is in- Ahsar-Thoor-Gyaw just pronouncing it is
deed Yangon, however the rooms are very a mouthful duck eggs filled with minced
comfortable and good value. Discounts are prawns (K3000), pumpkin soup (K1500) and
usually available for stays of three nights or meat-filled clay pot (K4500). The mohinga
more. The hotel boasts a popular fitness cen- (rice noodles with chicken or fish) break-
tre, large outdoor pool, sauna, tennis courts, fast here, compared with the same meal
business centre, good bookshop and several served in the average teashop, is like the
restaurants including the Orzo (see p116). difference between haute couture and
Dusit Inya Lake Resort (Map p86; %662 857; sweat pants.
www.dusit.com; 37 Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd; r US$70; ai
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N E a t i n g 113
The more humble-looking the restaurant its probably the most modern of the Shan
YA N G O N
appears, the more locals probably frequent noodle shops.
it. Figure on spending no more than K1000 999 Shan Noodle Shop (Map p102; 130B 34th St;
per person for a full spread, not including most noodle dishes K400) Four or five tables are
beverages: crammed into this tiny eatery behind City
Feel Myanmar Food (Map p98; %725 736; 124 Hall a short walk from Sule Paya. The menu,
Pyihtaungsu Yeiktha St; meals K2000) The Feel does printed in English and Burmese, includes
heavy lunch-time business; a mixed crowd filling Shn kauq swh (thin rice noodles
of locals and foreign embassy staff pack the in a slightly spicy chicken broth), and myi
all-wood dining room that resembles a pri- shay (Mandalay-style noodle soup). Noodle
vate home in northern Myanmar. Choose dishes are served with fried tofu triangles
from a great looking array of dishes laid and jars of pickled cabbage. The kitchen may
out buffet style in the back. There are a few sell out of some items by early evening.
other Feel Myanmar outlets in the city; this Maw Shwe Li Restaurant (Map p98; %221 103; 316
is the nicest, though. Anawrahta Rd, Lanmadaw Township; curries K1000) This
Aung Thuka (Map p90; 17A 1st St; venison curry K1000; is another good Shan eatery west of the city
h10am-7pm) On a small side street between centre. The small, friendly, out-of-the-way
Shwe Gon Daing and Dhama Zedi Rds near place is usually crowded with locals, and
the Shwedagon Paya, Aung Thuka features the curries are excellent and cheap; Shan
a simple dining room decorated with My- specialities include pei pot kyaw (sour bean
anmar calendars and movie posters, and condiment) and hmo chawk kyaw (fried
furnished with linoleum-top tables and mushrooms).
wooden chairs. Along one side of the room Lashio Lay Shan Restaurant (Map p98; %259 015;
are dozens of pots containing the days cur- 71 51st St; mains under K1000) A popular, simple
ries and special dishes; youll automatically little place near the corner of Mahaban-
receive soup, dhal, rice and side dishes. doola and 51st Sts, it serves excellent Shan
Hla Myanma Htamin Zain (Beautiful Myanmar Rice mains.
Shop; Map p90; 27 5th St; curries K1000; h10am-7pm)
Near the Aung Thuka restaurant, this place Thai
is sometimes called Shwe Ba because a fa- Yinn Dee Thai Restaurant (Map p90; %526 526;
mous Burmese actor of that name once had 126 Dhama Zedi Rd; freshwater catfish salad K2200; a)
his house nearby. Like Aung Thuka its a Thumbing through the small phonebook-
very simple, plain restaurant, where the food sized menu is an exercise in gustatory
is served from rows of curry pots. There are masochism. Fortunately, the food comes
also some Chinese and Indian dishes. quickly and when it comes it tastes as good
Green Elephant Restaurant (Map p90; %535 231; as the photos look. Yinn Dee Thais menu
www.elephant-house.com/restaurant; 519A Thirimingalar is more creative than its competitors and its
St; dishes K2500) Tour groups make this restau- dining room more elegant.
rant down a narrow side street off Pyay Rd Sabai Sabai Thai Restaurant (Map p90; %544
part of their Yangon itinerary. If you dont 724; 232 Dhama Zedi Rd; dishes K000; a) One of the
mind rubbing elbows with other foreign- more popular restaurants in Yangon, Sabai
ers, the upmarket and slightly Westernised Sabai is in a new location but the extensive
Bamar curries, salads, meat and seafood menu and homey, welcoming atmosphere
dishes are quite satisfying. Service is very remain the same. The menu isnt as inter-
good and the restaurant includes an up- esting as that in the Yinn Dee Thais but the
market craft shop. portions are large. Prices are in US dollars
and kyat.
Shan Padonmar Restaurant (Map p90; %536 485; 78
Aung Mingalar Shan Noodle Restaurant (Map p98; Inya Rd; dishes K1800; a) The menu here is a mix
Bo Yar Nyunt St; dishes K1000) Opening onto the of Thai- and Bamar-influenced Thai dishes
busy corner of Nawady St, Aung Min- (or is it Thai-influenced Bamar dishes)?
galar is an excellent place to simultane- Whatever it is, the ground nut and tomato
ously indulge in people watching and the curry (K800) is especially good. Open late,
sweet sound of noodle sipping. Waiters are the curiously decorated garden dining area
uniformed in Aung Mingalar T-shirts and is a good place for a late, leisurely dinner;
French and Australian wines and mixed Palei Kywe Restaurant (Map p102; %296 094;
YA N G O N
drinks are available. 44 Bo Aung Gyaw St; dishes K800; h10am-9pm) This
Silom Village Restaurant (Map p86; %527 448; restaurant is in the city centre near the main
647A Pyay Rd; K2000; a) Just north of Inya Rd in post office, between Strand Rd and Mer-
Hlaing township, this large bustling open- chant St. It serves excellent northern Chinese
air restaurant does very good Thai classics. fare at reasonable prices. The roast duck is
The atmosphere is fun although the ser- a speciality.
vice can be spotty when theyre busy. Mandarin Restaurant (Map p102; %272 960; 126
APK Kitchen Thai Food (Map p102; %250 437; 369 Mahabandoola Garden St; dishes K800) Near the cor-
Shwe Bontha St; dishes K1200; a) Attached to the ner of Mahabandoola Rd, just across from
grocery of the same name, you can watch the park, this place is owned by the same
shoppers through the window in the restau- family that runs the Mayshan Guest House.
rant while you eat. The food is better than The Mandarin offers the usual assortment of
youd expect from the fast-food style bench northern Chinese dishes, vegetarian fare and
seats, and its easy to pick out favourites fresh fish in a clean and fan-cooled setting.
from the big photo-filled menu. Nan Yu (Map p102; %252 702; 81 Pansodan St; dishes
K1200; a) The Nan Yu has all the usual Can-
Chinese tonese specialities.
You can sample the whole range of Chi- For noodles, fried rice and other quick
nese cuisine in Yangon from the familiar Chinese meals, try the night market (Map p98;
Cantonese to the less well known Shanghai, Madaw Rd) in Chinatown, around the corner
Sichuan, Beijing or Hokkien dishes. from the Cantonese temple.
Singapores Kitchen (Map p98; %226 297; 524
Strand Rd; dishes K1500; h10am-1am; a) This is Indian
one of the best Chinese restaurants in town. Along Anawrahta Rd, west of Sule Paya Rd
It offers excellent food and good service with towards the Sri Kali temple, are a number
a choice of upstairs or down, fresh fish on of shops serving Indian biryani (kyettha dan
display, an open kitchen and tables that spill bauk in Burmese), and at night the roti and
onto the footpath during fair weather. At dosa (a thin crepe filled with potato; spelt
night its a bright and busy place, and even toeshay on menus) makers set up along the
better is the late closing time. Besides sea- pavement on the side streets. Indian food is
food, it does a good job of crispy-fried duck, probably the cheapest way of eating in Yan-
as well as lots of veggie and noodle dishes. A gon, particularly at places that serve thali
10% service charge is added to the bill. (all-you-can-eat meals of rice and vegetable
Golden Duck Restaurant (Map p102; %241 234; curries piled on a fresh banana leaf or stain-
222-224 Strand Rd; duck mains K1800; h10am-10pm) less-steel plate), which often cost only K200.
The Golden Duck is a busy, popular little Biryani costs a bit more, around K300.
place offering seafood and, of course, duck. New Delhi Restaurant (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd)
It doesnt have the ambience of the nearby It does a variety of North and South Indian
Singapores Kitchen, but it serves excellent dishes for as little as K200. The selection in-
food and is good value. cludes puris (puffy breads), idli (rice ball in
Yin Fong Seafood Restaurant (Map p90; %546 broth), dosa and banana-leaf thalis and a va-
149; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; dishes K4500; a) This restau- riety of curries for lunch and dinner. Over-
rant directly across from the Kandawgyi head fans keep the swarms of bugs attracted
Palace Hotel is deservedly popular. A few by the ceiling lights from dive bombing your
of the specialties are squid with garlic sauce food. No tea here, only coffee, South Indian
(K4600), wasabi cuttlefish (K4800), shark style. The restaurant opens onto the street
congee (K4800), and also medicinal eel soup between 29th and Shwe Bontha Sts.
(K4200). Shwe Htoo Restaurant (Map p102; cnr Anawrahta
Western Park (Map p98; %225 143; Thakhin Mya Rd & 30th St) This restaurant is open later than
Rd; dishes K1800) Near Thakhin Mya Park and most and is good for a quick palata (fried
the bus terminal at the corner of Strand Rd, flatbread) or biryani plate; its between the
the Western Park is a big banquet style hall. New Delhi and Nila Biryani.
Its menu lists a wide variety of styles and Nila Biryani Shop (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd) Al-
dishes but the specialty is the juicy duck. though it's always crowded, and deservedly
so, the service is snappy, so the wait for de- Japanese restaurant (no shoes, floor seating)
YA N G O N
licious biryanis isnt long. Its between 31st enjoys a stellar reputation because of its
and 32nd Sts in the city centre. high quality sushi and sashimi. The hot pot
Shami Food Centre (Map p102; Anawrahta Rd) A and barbeque dishes are also excellent.
block east on the same side of Anawrahta Ichiban-Kan (Map p98; %245 027; 17-18 Aung San
Rd, this place serves fare similar to the Nila Stadium; noodle dishes US$3-10; a) This small old
Biryani and is owned by the same family. schoolstyle Japanese restaurant is in the
Both offer vegetarian biryani, as well as the northwest corner of the stadium. The small
usual chicken. menu focuses on soup and noodle dishes.
Bharat Restaurant (Map p102; %281 519; 356 Yakiniku Japanese Barbeque (Map p102; %374
Mahabandoola Rd; mains from K600) On the corner 738; 357 Shwe Bontha St; bbq dishes K1000; h10am-
of Seikkan Thar St, this place is dependable 10pm; a) Yakiniku is just down the block
and cheap; its similar to the New Delhi with from the Bogyoke Aung San Market. Tables
more of a focus on South Indian flavours. here have small gas-fired grills built into
Bharats marble-topped tables make a nice them, and youre responsible for cooking
change from the long cafeteria-style tables your own raw meat and fish.
at the Indian places on Anawrahta Rd. Okinawa Restaurant (Map p102; 32nd St; K1000)
Golden City Chetty Restaurant (Map p102; 170 Owned by the same family as the Okinawa
Sule Paya Rd) Just north of the Sule Paya, on Guest House down the block, this casual
the eastern side of the street, this place fol- restaurant does good Singapore-style fried
lows the usual pattern for Yangons Indian rice.
restaurants white-tiled walls and bright
fluorescent lights; its one of the few city- Korean
centre Indian places open after 7pm. Han Il Kwan (Map p86; %533 898; 46 Inya Rd; mains
Var Lunch Home (Map p102; Shwe Bontha St) Two K4000-8000). For genuine Korean and the best
doors south of Anawrahta Rd and the Sun- kimchi (salted, pickled vegetables) to be
flower Hotel, Var Lunch serves tasty dhal as found in Yangon, look for the large red Han
well as chicken, mutton and veggie curries Il Kwan sign on the left side of 6 miles on
all on banana leaves, South Indian style. Pyay Rd. Along with a main dish, you get
Good, cheap and authentic it costs about a small vegetable salad and at least eight
K800 for two people. side dishes with various kinds of kimchi.
There are some very good upmarket In- Various noodle and Chinese and Japanese
dian restaurants north of the city centre. dishes fill out the menu. Wash it all down
Ashoka Indian Restaurant (Map p90; %555 539; with Korean soju (K5000), a delicious rice
28B Pho Sein Rd; mains from US$5; a) Up the road liquor that packs a punch.
from the Nikko Hotel in a nicely restored World Cup (Map p90; Dhama Zedi Rd; mains K3000-
old home is the Ashoka serving up excel- 5000) Diagonally opposite the Savoy Hotel
lent, mostly North Indian cuisine. Portions on Dhama Zedi Rd, World Cup is another
are small but that justifies ordering several Korean favourite. It serves galbi tang (a de-
courses including piping hot breads and licious rich beef soup) as well as marinated
filling samosas. The dining room is large meat (usually pork rib) to eat with the kim-
and service formal and attentive. chi. Pictures of World Cup footballers deco-
Royal Taj Restaurant (Map p90; %542 899; 138C rate the walls.
University Ave Rd; mains from US$4) Another very
good North Indian eatery just east of Kaba Vietnamese
Aye Pagoda Rd and Inya Lake with excel- Vietnam House Restaurant (Map p90; %554 957;
lent tandoori dishes and veggie curries. 287 Shwe Gon Daing Rd; dishes K800) Between Kaba
Prices are moderate. Aye Pagoda Rd and Chaukhtatgyi Paya, this
Maharaja Indian Restaurant (Map p98; %720 place has an excellent local reputation, and
126; Amusement Park, Zoological Garden Compound; mains the prices are moderate.
US$5) Another very good choice.
French
Japanese Le Planteur (Map p90; %549 389; 16 Sawmaha St;
Furusato Japanese Restaurant (Map p90; %556 265; mains US$15-25; a) Widely considered the
137 West Shwegondine Rd) Fursato, a traditional best restaurant in Yangon, the cost of a meal
at Le Planteur matches its exalted reputa- is hip and stylish inside, outside its hid-
YA N G O N
tion. A list of just a few of the delicacies will den behind a cement wall at the corner of
whet the appetite of foodies: boneless frog Dhama Zedi and Inya. The dcor is mini-
leg appetizers, chowder of Japanese scal- mal but the pop music is loud. Service is
lops with black truffles and Myanmar white slow but friendly, a few of the dishes are
beans, and locally caught filet of parrot inventive while the burgers are only basic.
fish. The all-you-can-eat barbecue ribs, 50th Street Bar & Grill (Map p98; %298 096; 9-13
steak, chicken, seafood and vegetables 50th St; pizzas US$7; a) No detail or clich is
comes with free drinks for the first two missing, from the pool table to the news-
hours of the barbecue with drinks in- papers to the overpriced Cokes (US$2) to
cluding wine, beer, Johnnie Walker and soft the mediocre pizzas, pastas and sandwiches.
drinks every Thursday, Friday and Sat- Everything its assumed an expat misses.
urday night. It costs a reasonable K18,000. The 50th Street, near the corner of Merchant
To find Le Planteur, follow the signboard St is a popular hang-out with both expats
on Nat Mauk St, next to Kandawgyi near and locals alike. Prices are in US dollars,
the Hotel Nikko. though you may pay in kyat as well. Lunches
LMoliere (Map p86; %501 558; 49 Pyay Rd; mains are half-price Monday to Friday.
US$12;a) Opened in 2004, LMoliere is pic-
turesquely set right on Inya Lake. The chef Hotel Restaurants
specialises in fish and seafood, but meat Most of the hotel restaurants stay open until
dishes, especially the lamb cutlets with dau- 11pm.
phinoise potato are also excellent. Fantastic Strand Grill (Map p102; %243 377; 92 Strand Rd;
chocolates round out the meal. h6-11pm) The Grill is one of Yangons most
Js Bistro & Bar (Map p98; %220 284; 59 Taw Win expensive restaurants, with changing conti-
Rd; soups K3500; a) Connected to the boutique nental dinners starting at about US$25. Less
Js Irwaddy Dream in the same elegant teak formal (and less expensive) is the hotels
building, Js is popular with foreign em- Strand Caf (entrees from US$9; h6.30am-11pm),
bassy staff on lunch breaks. Besides a few which offers well-prepared soups, salads
French dishes, plus several Thai and Bamar and sandwiches, as well as a number of
inspired ones, the menu includes good Burmese and Asian-inspired dishes. There
cheeses, desserts and bread. is also a proper and filling high tea, from
2pm to 5pm daily. The cost is US$14 per
Italian person.
LOpera Restaurant (Map p86; %566 662; 20 Thukha La Maison du Lac (Map p90; %249 255) The Swiss
Waddy Rd; pizzas US$9; a) One of the better chef at this restaurant in the Kandawgyi Pal-
and more elegant restaurants in Yangon, ace Hotel prepares special set French dinners
LOpera boasts well-trained and smartly (US$15) every Friday and Saturday.
dressed wait staff but more importantly Shiki-Tei (Map p98; %250 388) This elegant
is the Italian owner and chefs meticulous and modern Japanese restaurant in the
preparation. LOpera is east of Inya Lake, Grand Plaza Park Royal Hotel is one of the
just south of Kanbe St, in a pretty little best in the city. The set lunch (US$5) is a
residential cul-de-sac. The outdoor garden good deal.
seating is a bonus in good weather. Lunch Mandalay Restaurant (Map p98; % 221 462;
is even more affordable, including delicious 35 Taw Win St; mains US$10) At the ritzy Pansea
seafood pizza. Yangon, this is a serene restaurant serv-
Caf Dibar (Map p90; %006 143; 14/20 Than Lwin ing outstanding French- and Burmese-style
Rd; mains K3000; a) Around the corner from cuisine; its a perfect place to splurge.
the Savoy Hotel, in a strip mall of a few Adorns Kitchen (Map p102; %256 355; dishes
other restaurants, Caf Dibar is an informal K2500) Consistently rated as the top Chinese
and less expensive Italian bistro. The sea- restaurant in Yangon, Adorns can be found
food pizza and lasagne are excellent. in the Grand Mee Ya Hta Executive Resi-
dences next to the FMI Centre.
Other Western Orzo (Map p86; mains K8000) Downstairs in the
Onyx (Map p90; sandwiches K2000; a) Not entirely Sedona with a view of the pool, this Italian
sure of what it wants to be yet, the Onyx restaurant serves good pizza and pastas.
Traders Hotel Restaurant (Map p102; %242 828; Chinese-influenced and Indian-influenced
YA N G O N
223 Sule Paya Rd; brunch US$12, dinner US$18) In the teashops. This place, between Seikkan Thar
Traders Hotel, this restaurant serves inter- and 39th Sts, represents the latter, provid-
national, Cantonese, Japanese and Burmese ing fresh samosas and palata.
cuisine and elaborate buffet dinners. The The Golden Dragon Teashop (Map p98)
Gallery Bar on the 2nd floor does a lavish and Lucky Seven Teashop (Map p98) are
brunch, which includes well-prepared Bamar lively teashops serving good snacks and are
curries, Chinese steam pot, roast duck, souf- in the vicinity of several good midrange
fls and desserts. guesthouses east of the city centre.
Parkview Caf (Map p90; 350 Ahlone Rd; mains
K6000, buffet K8500) At the Summit Parkview Street Food
Hotel, it is another good place for Sunday Lit up like Times Square, little makeshift
brunch; this one with both veggie and non- grills and small plastic tables line 19th St be-
veggie Indian cuisine. Buffet dinners from tween Mahabandoola and Anawrahta Rds
around the world are served Thursday to in Chinatown. To order, point to what you
Sunday nights. want a selection of meat and fish skewers
Kiplings Restaurant (Map p90; %526 289; mains (K150), artichokes and bean curd. Its a bit
K9000-17,000, 4-course dinner K17,000) Kiplings has of a mens club, though theres no reason
a German chef but mostly Italian fare; the to think women arent welcome. Another
Bierstube (beer, wine and German food) and good Indian stall (selling good barbecued
the Captains Bar (happy hour from 6pm fish) is nearby on Latha St, just south of
to 8pm daily and Wednesday from 8pm Mahabandoola Rd, next to Vilas Beauty
to 11pm) are both in the Savoy Hotel on Salon. Snack places for dessert are around
Dhama Zedi Rd. the corner on Mahabandoola Rd.
Travellers keen to avoid government- The noodle stalls on 32nd St, near the
owned places should bypass the Karaweik Sule Paya, are very cheap and very good.
Palace Restaurant, which is a remarkable Food stalls serving curries and rice for
looking structure on Kandawgyi. experienced stomachs only can be found
along the eastern side of Bo Galay Zay St.
Teashops
Yangons numerous teashops are not just Fast Food
places to have cups of milk tea or coffee If youre seeking more of a caf-style atmos-
or tiny pots of Chinese tea. They are great phere, see p118.
places for cheap Burmese, Chinese and In- Sharkeys (Map p90; 4B Golden Valley) A favourite
dian snacks. For breakfast, in fact, youre with the expat community, it sells locally
often better off spending a few kyat in a made cheese, yogurt, pizzas (part cooked
teashop, rather than eating the boring toast, you need your own oven to finish it off),
egg and instant-coffee breakfasts provided pesto, olives, sundried tomatoes, as well as
by many hotels and guesthouses. home grown roquette and other vegetables
Sei Taing Kya Teashop (Map p90; 53 Za Ga War St; and fresh herbs. The Burmese owner, who
h7am-5pm) This is the most famous tea- acquired his cheese-making skills in Eu-
tippling spot in Yangon. It has six branches rope, also cures his own hams and chorizo,
and the most happening branch is near and makes pt to die for. Sharkeys is
the Israeli embassy. It serves top-quality found in Bahan township close to the Aus-
tea, samosa, palata, mohinga (rice noodles tralian embassy.
with chicken or fish and eggs) and ei-kya- Pizza Corner (Map p102; %254 730; 397 Shwe Bon
kwe (deep-fried pastries). A branch east of Thar St; pizza K2000-2800; a) This Pizza Hut
the city centre is at 103 Anawrahta Rd, on style joint is a block from Bogyoke Aung
the corner of 51st St. Theres another just San Market. The lights are bright and the
south of the Theinbyu Playground and by dcor is American fast-food to the hilt but
Kandawgyi, on Thein Byu Rd. the veggie and meat pizzas are tasty. Pasta
Yatha Teashop (Map p102; %349 341; 353 Ma- and fried chicken are also on the menu.
habandoola Rd; h7am-5pm) Mahabandoola Rd Ginza Pan Food Center (Map p98; %379 234; 29 Gyo
has a couple of more modest establishments Phyu Rd; a) The Ginza Pan, across from Aung
that typify the general division between San Stadium, suffers from an identity crisis.
118 YA N G O N D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
Is it a caf, a fast-food joint, a full-service h6pm-midnight) Founded by famous Burmese

YA N G O N
restaurant, Myanmar or Thai, or a bakery? vocalist Nay Myo Say, this dark caf/bar
Its actually a combination of all of the above features live folk music from about 7pm to
and doing all of them adequately. midnight nightly. Well-known Burmese mu-
Tokyo Fried Chicken (Map p102; 156 Mahabandoola sicians drop by frequently to sit in with the
Garden St; h8am-9pm; a) There are several regular house group. The clientele is a mix
outlets of TFC, Yangons very own version of locals and expats. Along with music and
of KFC. One is just north of Mahabandoola drinks, Asian and European food is avail-
Rd and the other is across the street from able. Foreign beers such as Corona will set
Bogyoke Aung San Market. you back K4400.
Nilar Wins Cold Drink Shop (Map p102; %278 Frenz Bar & Grill (Map p90; %547 324; Kaba Aye
364; 377 Mahabandoola Rd; h8am-11pm) This long Pagoda Rd; hnoon-late) A sleek place, especially
established clean little caf is four blocks for Yangon, Frenz keeps the dcor minimal-
east of Sule Paya (between 37th and 38th ist and, like trendy bars everywhere, risks
Sts). You can get yogurt, lassi (a delicious style over substance. Live music, mostly cov-
Indian yogurt drink, plain or blended with ers, is on offer every night apart from Sun-
fruit) as well as fruit salad, toast and egg day. Burgers (K3800), pizza, pastas, Indian
(just K80), French toast and other traveller cuisine, steaks and seafood make up the cul-
delicacies. turally diverse menu (K2200 to K5000).
J Donuts (Map p102; Shwe Bontha St) is just south 50th Street Bar & Grill (Map p98; %298 069; 9-
of Bogyoke Aung San Rd, while MacBurger 13 50th St, h11am-10.30pm) Popular with local
(Map p102; Pansodan St) and another J Donuts (Map Burmese and expats on Friday and Saturday
p102; Pansodan St) are opposite each other be- nights, this bar has a pool table and brick-
tween Mahabandoola and Anawrahta Rds. oven pizza. There are half-price drinks from
All are open 8am to 9pm daily. 5pm to 8pm Monday to Thursday, 4pm to
9pm Friday and all day Sunday.
DRINKING Silver Oak Caf (Map p102; 83/91 Bo Aung Kyaw St;
Apart from the bars and cafs listed below, %299 993; hnoon-late) This place, a few blocks
Yangon abounds in teashops, where cups of from the Strand is one of the few centres of
milk tea or coffee, followed by endless tiny gay nightlife in the city. In front is a hair
pots of Chinese tea and cheap snacks, are salon and behind is the club with live music
available. As these places are a good choice most nights.
for breakfast, we have included them on Captains Bar (Map p90; %526 289; 129 Dhama
p117. Zedi Rd; huntil midnight) At the Savoy Hotel,
this bar is popular with both local Burmese
Bars and expats, especially on Wednesday nights
Most of the city goes dark around nine. Bur- when theres live jazz.
mese night owls head to one of the clubs Diamond White Bar (Map p102; %241 007; Bogy-
listed opposite. A lively expat scene rotates oke Aung San Rd; hearly morning-late) Its a popular
around the city during the week: Wednesday drinking hole and caf on the ground floor
nights are for the Savoy, Thursday nights of the Central Hotel. Theres a steady stream
Traders, and Friday night the Strand. of satellite TV sport, and prices are good
Strand Bar (Map p102; %243 377; 92 Strand Rd; and low.
h11am-11pm) Though its primarily an expat
scene, this classic bar inside the Strand Cafs
Hotel has any foreign liquors you may be Zawgyis Caf (Map p102; %256 355; 372 Bogyoke
craving behind its polished wooden bar. Aung San Rd) Zawgyis is next to the FMI Cen-
Occasionally theres someone around to tre, one of the best people watching spots
play the baby grand. Friday afternoon and in the city. In addition to ice cream, shakes
early evening is a two-for-one happy hour and juices the caf menu includes noodle
(theres a standard happy hour all other and rice dishes and sandwiches as well. The
days from 5pm to 7pm). The bar is pleas- shop inside sells high-priced handicrafts
antly relaxed and comfortable despite the and textiles.
price of the rooms above. Ritz Caf (Map p98; %243 934; 296 Shwedagon Pa-
Mr Guitar Caf (Map p90; %550 105; 22 Sayasan St; goda Rd; h10.30am-10.30pm; a) A hip stylish
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N E n t e r t a i n m e n t 119
caf near the Defence Services Museum with formance of Burmese classical dance-drama
YA N G O N
interesting glass tables, it has international at the National Theatre (Map p98; Myoma Kyaung Rd),
newspapers and magazines free for perusal a government-sponsored facility, northwest
while downing a burger (K780) or cappuc- of Bogyoke Aung San Market.
cino (K750). CDs are sold here as well. Scenes from Ramayana called Yama
Caf Aroma (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd; h8am-11pm; Thagyin in Burmese are only occasionally
a) The Starbucks of Yangon, this caf has held. Check at the theatre itself or try asking
several outlets around the city. The Sule staff at the larger hotels.
Paya Rd branch, next to the cinema, is
the most central, and offers fine, freshly Dinner Shows
brewed coffee and fruit smoothies (from There are a few large, banquet-style restau-
about K500) in a stylish setting. Pasta and rants with floorshows in Yangon. Heavily
pizza dishes are also available for K800 to used by the visiting business community,
K1400. Other Caf Aroma outlets are at the these dining spots are typically Chinese-
Yuzana Plaza, just east of Kandawgyi and at owned and feature extensive Chinese menus
the La Pyat Wun Shopping Centre. plus a few Burmese dishes. Entertainment is
Golden Triangle Bakery (Map p102; %378 869; provided by Burmese bands that perform a
641 Merchant St; h8am-5pm; a) It has three lo- mixture of Burmese, Western, Chinese and
cations throughout the city including one Japanese pop songs. Some places also fea-
across the street from the Golden Smiles ture Burmese classical dance and/or mari-
Inn and another in the British Library. The onette theatre.
bakery does delicious cheese cake (K850), LakeView Theatre Restaurant (Map p90; %249
biscuits and special order cakes, not to 255; [email protected]; Kan Yeik Tha Rd; dinner &
mention cappuccinos (K500) and other hot show K7200) Attached to the Kandawgyi Palace
and cold drinks. Hotel, the entertaining show includes 10
Actors Corner Caf (Map p90; %504 932; 1st fl, traditional Burmese dances; one involves
Dagon Centre; h8am-7pm; a) Far from Holly- a woman balancing on one foot on a chair
wood, this caf is still advertised as the place while juggling a cane ball. The buffet din-
where stars hang out, and while you may ner of Thai and Burmese favourites starts at
not be able to spot them, the modern roomy 6.30pm, before the show.
caf is good enough for the hoi polloi. Lone Ma Lay Restaurant (Map p90; %550 357; Nat
Mr Brown Caf (Map p102; Mahabandoola Garden St; Mauk St, Kandawgyi; dishes K1000) This is among the
a) Another place to get a break from the best of the bunch of restaurants at Kandaw-
heat and sip a cold drink even if the dcor gyi that offer entertainment. Shows focus
is more fast food than caf. on Burmese classical and folk dance early
in the evening, and pop later on.
ENTERTAINMENT Dolphin Seafood Restaurant (Map p90; %250
Nightlife and Yangon arent usually used in 240; Kan Yeik Thar St) Near the aquarium, also on
the same sentence. The main form of local the lake, the Dolphin Seafood is less formal
recreation is hanging out in teashops or and known for employing the best Burmese
cold drink shops. While Bangkok makes pop singers in town. A recent addition to
an evening in Yangon seem quaint and the restaurant is karaoke in English, Bur-
provincial, entertainment can be found in mese and Chinese.
far-flung places around this sprawling city,
unfortunately much of it in large hotels ca- Clubs
tering to foreigners. Yagons own interpretation of club culture
On festival days (some are listed on p106), involves competitive fashion shows and
local bands occasionally organise live out- mostly listless groups of men sipping bot-
door concerts. During the water festival in tles of Myanmar beer. Its not clear whether
April, sizable rock-music shows are set up an 11pm curfew is de facto or de jure, either
along Inya Rd and University Ave Rd and way its only periodically and unevenly ad-
feature local underground rockers. ministered, dependent on both power sup-
ply and politics. Most clubs have a nominal
National Theatre cover charge that includes the first drink.
The Yangon government revived the per- A word of warning: prostitutes are a regu-
120 YA N G O N S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
lar feature at many of Yangons hot night political reasons; travellers are therefore
YA N G O N
spots. Though the government keeps them limited to whatever can fit in their carry-on
on the move, there is little concern for their baggage. Yangon isnt the shoppers mecca
health or safety, or that of their clients. that Bangkok is, it does however offer a
There are several rooftop clubs in Thein more manageable alternative as there are
Gyi Zay Plaza, on Shwedagon Paya Rd in fewer and smaller outlets and prices tend
Chinatown. Access is provided by lifts open to be even cheaper all around.
to the street. They tend to be open from early
evening until late. Arts & Handicrafts
You might find yourself straining to hear A small but thriving local gallery scene ex-
the gentle lap of ocean waves at Zero Zone ists in Yangon, the majority spread around
Rock Restaurant (Map p102; %373 384; 2nd fl, 2 Thain the relatively posh Golden Valley neigh-
Gyi Zay) whose bamboo shelters seem more bourhood. Several painters have achieved
appropriate for a beach club than Yangon recognition abroad and prices in general are
rooftop. Its the most appealing of the bunch not inexpensive.
offering up live music nightly, views of the Wingaba Art Gallery (Map p90; %549 376; eura-
city, cheap beer and Myanmar, Chinese and [email protected]; 29 Wingaba St) Contemporary
Indian food. Da Best 69 Entertainment (Map p102; paintings, lacquerware and tapestries are on
City Centre Plaza, Shwedagon Pagoda Rd) and Emperor display in this colonial residence.
Entertainment (Map p102; %240 600; 5th fl, City Centre Nandawun (Map p90; %221 271; cnr Baho & Ahlone
Plaza, Shwedagon Pagoda Rd) are on the same block. Rds) It deals with rare books on Myanmar,
Pioneer Club (Map p98; %240 995; 44 Alanpya Pagoda ethnic minority costumes, lacquerware and
Rd, Yuzana Garden Hotel), a disco popular with US gems.
Marines, and other primarily male expats Daw Mya Mya Sein (%542 505; 11 Thiri Zeyar St)
and Burmese hosts a supermodel show. This is an antique lacquerware shop in the
house of the proprietor, who is a former
Cinemas Shan princess.
Theres no better city for Myanmar cine- Traditions Gallery (Map p90; %513 709; 24 Inya
philes than Yangon. By a conservative esti- Myaing Rd) Quality reproductions of tradi-
mate there are over 50 theatres, a half-dozen tional Myanmar handicrafts are sold here.
or so found along Bogyoke Aung San Rd, The director is Claudia Saw Lwin.
east of the Sule Paya. Tickets are K800 or Ivy Gallery (Map p98; %297 654; 159 45th St) Be-
less per seat. Critically acclaimed films are tween Bogyoke Aung San and Anawrahta
in short supply; rather there is a succession Rds, Ivy is run by the director, Myat Min.
of syrupy Myanmar dramas, Bollywood mu- It features a fine collection of modern Bur-
sicals, kung-fu smash-ups, plus a few Hol- mese art. Ivy also has a shop in Bogyoke
lywood blockbusters. Aung San Market at 438 West Row.
Nay Pyi Daw Cinema (Map p102; %276 555; Sule Both Golden Valley Art Centre (Map p90; %513
Paya Rd; a) This cinema across from Trad- 621; 54(D) Golden Valley), and Inya Gallery of Art (Map
ers Hotel and next to the Aroma Caf has p90; %530 327; 50(B) Inya Rd) feature exhibits by
showings throughout the day. Its one of the contemporary Burmese painters.
busiest cinemas in the city.
Thamada Cinema (Map p98; %246 962; 5 Alaung Malls
Paya St; a) Easily the best cinema for for- There are a number of modern Western-
eigners, it is comfortable and shows fairly style shopping malls with air-con, restau-
recent American and international films. rants, cafs and a wide selection of stores
American Center (Map p98; 14 Taw Win St) Behind selling everything from hipster T-shirts to
the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, this centre flat screen TVs. The largest and most con-
shows free American movies at noon every venient are these:
Monday. Blazon (Map p90; 72 U Wi Za Ra Rd)
Dagon Centre (Map p90; 262-264 Pyay Rd)
SHOPPING Excel Treasure (Map p90; Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd)
Its unfortunate that shipping goods from FMI Centre (Map p102; 380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Just
Myanmar is either prohibitively expensive east of Bogyoke Aung San Market.
for most or simply not possible because of
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N S h o p p i n g 121
La Pyat Wun Plaza (Map p98; Ah Lan Paya Pagoda St) textiles, but the market is renowned for its
YA N G O N
Not far north of the train station. large selection of traditional Burmese herbs
Markets and medicines. A snake section features the
Shopping at the zei (markets, often spelt zay) fresh blood and organs of various snakes,
in central Yangon can be fun, educational some live ones are disembowelled on-the-
and a chance to interact with the locals. spot for medicinal consumption. Traditional
The long southern stairway at Shwe- Burmese herbal shampoo, made by boiling
dagon Paya is lined with small shops cater- the bark of the tayaw shrub with big black
ing to pilgrims and tourists alike. Popular kin pun (acacia pods) is sold in small plastic
items include sandalwood bracelets, small bags; this is the secret of Myanmar womens
drums, papier mache animals etc. Bargain- smooth, glossy hair. A new mall-like section
ing is expected here. on Shwedagon Paya Rd, Theingyizei Plaza,
Bogyoke Aung San Market (Map p102; Bogyoke contains less-interesting modern shops.
Aung San Rd; h8am-6pm Tue-Sun) A half-day could Thirimingala Zei (Map p90; Yangon River bank, Ahl-
easily be spent wandering around this 70- one Township) Off the northern end of Strand
year-old sprawling with over 2000 shops Rd (about 1km west of Peoples Park), is a
market (sometimes called by its old British labyrinth of vendors selling fresh foodstuffs,
name, Scott Market). Besides the fact that it vegetables, fruits and meat its worth a
has the largest selection of Burmese handi- stroll for the amazing sights and smells, not
crafts youll find under several roofs, the all of them especially pleasant.
market is a fantastic opportunity to smile, San Pya Fish Market (Map p90; Nat Sin St) Catch
laugh and haggle alongside Burmese shop- even more of an aroma further north along
pers. Along the maze-like aisles youll find the riverfront.
a whole variety of interesting Burmese sou- Mingala Zei (Map p90) A little southeast of
venirs, from lacquerware and Shan shoulder Kandawgyi, this market proffers textiles,
bags to T-shirts and puppets. Pick-up some clothes, electrical appliances, plastic ware,
nice slippers here, convenient for all the on preserved and tinned foodstuffs, modern
and off demanded by paya protocol. Gems medicines, and even cosmetics from China,
and jewellery are also on hand. To store all Thailand and Singapore.
this booty, several shops in the market, across Iron bazaar (Map p98; cnr Mahabandoola & Madaw
the street along Bogyoke Aung San Rd and in Rds) Located in Yangons Chinatown you
the New Bogyoke Market, which caters more can find all the items that are used in Chi-
to the household needs of Burmese, sell an nese cooking here.
extensive variety of backpacks of all sizes and Itinerant vendors set up along Anawrahta
brands, some more authentic than others. Rd east and west of Sule Paya Rd from about
Some of the more interesting shops in 6pm to 10pm nightly, selling everything
Bogyoke Aung San Market include: from Chinese toothbrushes to fresh fruit
Depi Store (39 West Block) For cheroots and cigars. and shish kebab. Chinatown (Map p98) it-
Eastern Queen (1st fl, 18 Face Wing) Rattan furniture. self extends east-west between Madaw and
Jing Phaw Mai Lay (Myanma Silk & Cotton Wear; 93 Shwedagon Paya Rds, and north-south be-
Central Arcade) & Mya Malar (137 West Wing) At least 20 tween Mahabandoola and Strand Rds.
other places in the market also specialise in longyi (sarong-
like lower garments). Speciality Shops
Maung Maw & Brothers (115 Inner West Wing) Js Irrawaddy Dream (Map p98; %221 695; 59 Taw Win
Modern and traditional musical instruments. St; h9am-8pm) A block north of the Pansea
Myanmar Lacquerware (1-2 East Wing) Lacquerware. Hotel, this is a handsome shop featuring
Myat Sanda (138 West Wing) Lapheq (pickle tea). high-quality Burmese textiles, clothes, lac-
Super Star Antique & National Traditional Goods quer and other handicrafts. Its an especially
Shop (15 West Wing) good place to find stylish womens dresses.
Royal Rose (Map p86; %662 576; www.kyolone
Theingyi Zei (Map p102; Shwedagon Paya Rd) The .com; Inya Yeiktha St) East of Inya Lake and north
biggest market in Yangon, this is especially of LOpera, Royal Rose sells handbags and
good for locals who find Bogyoke Aung beautifully crafted womens slippers, better
San Market a little too pricey. Most of the than the kind sold in Bogyoke Aung San
merchandise is ordinary housewares and Market.
122 YA N G O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com
If your prescription spectacles should go air travel, and p358 for details on domestic
YA N G O N
missing, optometry stores (Map p102) line air travel, to/from Yangon.
both sides of Shwe Bontha St between Bo- Boat
gyoke Aung San and Anawrahta Rds. Along the Yangon River waterfront, which
The Morning market (Map p102; cnr 38th St & wraps around the south of Yangon, are a
Bogyoke Aung San Rd) has fresh flowers at cheap number of jetties with boats offering long-
prices. Also try the back entrance to Bogy- distance ferry services. The four main pas-
oke Aung San Market, or on early morn- senger jetties (Pongyi, Lan Thit, Kaingdan
ings/evenings at Hledan, Myaynigone or and Hledan) service long-distance ferries
Kyimyindaing markets. headed up the delta towards Pathein or
Yangon is a surprisingly good place to north along the Ayeyarwady River to Pyay,
find DVDs of American, British, French and Bagan and Mandalay. Named after the re-
Hong Kong films. Be aware that a number spective streets that extend north from each
of DVD shops deal in pirated copies. Heres jetty, all four are clustered in an area just
a disclaimer for liability purposes: the ones south of Lanmadaw township and south-
in the following places look genuine. west of Chinatown. When you come to pur-
As well as films, Lucky 7 (Map p98; %371 410; chasing a ticket for a particular ferry from
61 Latha St) sells an extensive variety of DVDs the governments Inland Water Transport (IWT;
of popular American and British TV shows Map p98; %284 055) deputy division managers
including the Simpsons and the Office; office, at the back of Lan Thit jetty, be sure
Twenty One (Map p98; %245 295; 168 Mahabandoola to ask which jetty your boat will be depart-
Rd, cnr 21st St), a much smaller shop nearby, ing from.
sells the usual Hollywood blockbusters. Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL; Map p98; %295
Most of the malls listed on p120 have small 279) ships leave from the MSFL jetty (Map
shops selling DVDs. The ones on the 2nd p102) also known as Chanmayeiseikan
floor of Excel Treasure and the 4th floor of jetty next to Pansodan St jetty.
La Pyat Wun Plaza are the best. There are several privately owned com-
panies that operate luxury cruises from Yan-
Tailors gon to Bagan and Mandalay (see p362).
Yangon isnt a place you would usually
think of for tailor-made clothes, but prices PATHEIN
for tailoring are among the lowest in South- IWT boats depart from the Lan Thit jetty
east Asia. The selection of fabrics at tai- in Yangon for Pathein at 5pm daily (arriv-
lor shops, however, is mostly restricted to ing 10am the next day). The cost is US$7
synthetics. Cotton lengths in prints, plaids, for deck class (an easy chair if youre early
solids and batiks can easily be found in the enough) or US$42 per person for a cabin
larger markets, so you may do better to buy with private bathroom. From Pathein to
cloth at a market and bring it to a tailor Yangon, boats also leave at 5pm and arrive
shop for cutting and sewing. at 10am the next day.
Js Clothes (Map p98; %220 284; 59 Taw Win Rd) A more luxurious option is the privately
This part of Js Irrawaddy Dream works owned and operated Delta Queen (%246 752;
with high-quality Myanmar and imported www.myanmar-rivercruises.com; 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St,
fabrics. Yangon; per person US$170) See p134 for more
Ava Tailoring (Map p102; %2481 56; 124 Pansodan details.
St) If you want a traditional, Mandarin-collar
Myanmar shirt (for men), try this place TWANTE
near the train station at the Anawrahta Rd The alternative to getting to Twante by the
intersection. Dalah ferry/bus combo is to take the two-
Globe Tailoring (Map p102; %273 416; 367 Bogyoke hour scenic trip along the Yangon River and
Aung San Rd) Well regarded by local expats for Twante Canal (see p129for details).
womens and mens tailoring.
DAWEI, MYEIK, & KAWTHOUNG
GETTING THERE & AWAY Its theoretically possible to travel in a large
Air MFSL boat south to Dawei, Myeik or Kaw-
See p354 for information on international thoung. In reality, its unlikely that the requi-
www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 123
site supernatural amounts of luck, patience, as a maintenance yard, warehouse space,
YA N G O N
and commitment are all possessed by one and a transport hub for shipping goods.
single person at a single extended moment The majority of bus companies do still have
in time. If the stars should align in your offices there.
favour remember there is no fixed schedule
for departures or arrivals. Bon voyage. To the North
The nicer, air-conditioned buses of compa-
Bus nies such as Leo Express and Sun Moon Ex-
There are two major bus terminals in Yangon: press head off to destinations to the north
Aung Mingalar Bus Terminal and the Hlaing daily, usually at around 5pm or 6pm. Bus
Thar Yar Bus Terminal, described below. companies operating up and down High-
There is a third station, smaller and less way 1 include the following (those with
important than the following two, known ticket kiosks at Aung San Stadium are in-
as Tha-khin Mya Pan-gyan Gate. It is near dicated below):
the Western Park Chinese Restaurant. AKM Express (%636 441)
Buses from here, which are generally older Eastern State Express (%639 455)
and without air-con, service Bago, Mawbi Hnin Thu Wai (%246 283)
and Taikgyi. Companies based in Aung Kyaw Express (%242 473; 8-11 Aung San Stadium,
Mingalar also travel to Bago so the only South Wing)
real reason to leave from Tha-khin Mya Leo Express (%252 001; fax 240 668; Aung San
Park is because the station is within walking Stadium, Eastern Wing)
distance of the city centre. Mann Shwe Pyi Express (%248 970)
Most signs at the bus terminals are in Rainbow Express (%272 250)
Burmese; however, English-speaking touts Saw Bwa Gyi Gon (%665 545)
anxious to steer you in the right direction Sin-ma-lite (%286 588)
are in abundance. To avoid the hassle and Sun Moon Express (%642 903; Aung San Stadium,
attention make sure your taxi driver (both Southern Wing)
of the major terminals are around 45 min- Transnational Express (TNE; %249 671; 22-29 Aung
utes from the city centre and its unlikely San Stadium, Southern Wing)
youll arrive to either via public bus) knows
where you want to go and even better the Destinations served include the following.
name of the specific bus company. Showing Journey times depend on road conditions
the driver your ticket will do; if you dont and the health of your bus.
have a ticket have a Burmese speaker write Bagan (K6500, 14 hours) Ye Thu Aung express buses leave
the information on a slip of paper. at around 3pm. To go there via Pyay requires bus changes
You can buy tickets at the bus terminal in Pyay and Magwe this seems to be a route only used
or at several central locations, mostly op- by those on package bus tours, or with a private car.
posite the central train station, alongside Kalaw (K7000, 15 to 17 hours) Buses depart in the late
Aung San Stadium. Many hotels can book afternoon and go over the mountains.
tickets for you. Mandalay (K6000, 12 to 15 hours) Buses leave from
around 4.30pm to 6pm.
AUNG MINGALAR BUS TERMINAL Taunggyi for Inle Lake (K6000, 20 hours) Get off in
(HIGHWAY BUS STATION) Shwenyaung and then grab a pick-up or taxi to Nyaung-
Located to the northeast of the airport, shwe on Inle Lake.
Aung Mingalar (Map p86) is the only of- Thandwe for Ngapali Beach (K4500, 17 hours) Go via
ficial bus terminal for all 150 bus lines leav- Pyay and Taunggok by Aung Thit Sar Bus or Ye Aung Lan
ing for the northern part of Myanmar from buses run via Gwa. Neither buses particularly comfortable and
Yangon, as well as for Kyaiktiyo (Golden the former route is only meant for the hardiest of travellers.
Rock), Mawlamyine and destinations to
the south. Prior to April 2003 when Aung To Bago, Kyaiktiyo, Hpa-An and
Mingalar, was christened, another terminal Mawlamyine
near the airport called Saw Bwar Gyi Gone The names of some of the bus lines that
was known as the highway station. Many ply the specific routes are listed below in
publications and maps still refer to Saw parentheses.
Bwar Gyi Gone incorrectly; its now used Bago (K500-K1000, two hours) Buses (Phyo and Kyan Tine
124 YA N G O N G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com
Aung) leave every 30 minutes from the early morning to early in the morning. You can usually buy
YA N G O N
early afternoon. tickets for the same day.

Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) and Kinpun (K2500, 4 Car
hours) Buses (Win and The Tan Kyaw) leave at 7.30am, Many people choose to forgo both public
8.30am and 9.30am. Other bus companies leave between transport and package tours by hiring a guide
7am and 1pm. There are also several companies with ticket and car and maybe an additional driver for
booths along Pansodan St in Yangon with trips on similar doing DIY tours. For some this combines
large, air-con buses to Kinpun; however, these leave the best of both worlds relative comfort
around 9pm and arent very desirable unless you prefer to and safety and flexibility and personalised
arrive in the middle of the night. itineraries. This can be arranged through a
Hpa-An (K4000, eight hours) Buses (Ah Swe Taw, Mya travel agent (p89) or hotel front desk.
Eai Drae, Shwe Hparr Si and Shwe Chin The) leave from
6.30pm to 8pm. Train
Mawlamyine (K4000, 10 hours) Buses (Yarzar Min, The most frequented train from Yangon is
Yaung Ni Htun and Mihara) leave from 6pm to 8pm and go the 14-hour trip north to Mandalay. While
via Hpa-An. With a new bridge over the Thanlwin River, Myanma Railways operate most services, a
BTT buses plan on running nightly buses (K3000, six hours) private company, Dagon-Mann also has a
directly between Yangon and Mawlamyine. service on this route the 17 up which
departs Yangon at 3.15pm. Ask at guest-
HLAING THAR YAR BUS TERMINAL houses or private travel agents for details
This is the bus terminal for travel to the delta and bookings.
region (called Ayeyarwady Division) to the Theoretically foreigners are not allowed
west of Yangon, including destinations such to buy tickets for any berths below 1st class.
as Pathein (K2500, 3 hours), Chaungtha A 1st-class seat costs US$30 (no air-con or
Beach (K5000, six to seven hours), and video); an ordinary upper seat US$42; a spe-
Ngwe Saung Beach (K5000, five hours). cial upper seat (reclining) US$45; an ordi-
Its official name is the Dagon Ayer Bus nary sleeper US$48; and a superior sleeper
Terminal (Dagon is the old historic name of (with private bathroom and fridge) US$50.
Yangon). Its 45 minutes to an hour away by Tickets may be reserved up to a month in
taxi west of the city centre on the other side advance. Its possible to get off anywhere
of the Yangon River on Highway 5 (Yangon along the way, the most relevant stops,
Pathein Rd). More than 20 bus lines operate being Bago, Taungoo and Thazi. Another
out of here. line heads north to Pyay and to Kyaiktiyo
There are several daily buses to Pathein, and Mottama to the south.
Chaungtha Beach and Ngwe Saung Beach, For general train enquiries, call Yan-
leaving from the early morning until 1pm. gon central train station (Map p98; % 274 027;
The more comfortable buses tend to leave h6am-4pm). See p367 for information on
TRAIN TRAVEL FROM YANGON

Destination 2nd 1st Sleeper Departure time Duration
Bagan US$11 US$34 US$34 8.30am, 10am 19hrs

Kyaiktiyo* US$4 US$9 - 7am, 10pm 8hrs
Mandalay* US$13 US$30-38 US$50 6am, 11.30am, 3.15pm, 14hrs
5pm, 6.30pm, 7.30pm,
9pm
Mottama na US$17 - (see Kyaiktiyo) 9hrs
Pyay US$17 - - 7am 7hr
Shwenyaung US$13 US$26 - 3.30pm 21hrs
Taungoo US$7 US$19 - (see Mandalay) 9hrs
Thazi US$10 US$26 US$34 (see Mandalay) 12hrs
* Also stops at Bago en route.

www.lonelyplanet.com YA N G O N G e t t i n g A r o u n d 125
rail travel within Myanmar using Myanma Shwedagon Paya Bus Nos 37, 43 and 46.
YA N G O N
Railways. Chaukhtatgyi Paya Bus Nos 42, 47.
GETTING AROUND Taxi
To/From the Airport All licensed taxis carry red licence plates,
Taxi drivers will approach you before exit- though there is often little else to distin-
ing the airport terminal. The standard fare guish a taxi from any other vehicle in Yan-
for a ride from the airport to anywhere in gon. The most expensive licensed taxis are
the city is US$3. Its best to have a few sin- the, usually older, mid-sized Japanese cars;
gle bills so that you dont have to change many missing their door handles and other
money in the airport (see p89). From the extras.
city centre to the airport it can cost slightly Fares are highly negotiable most trips
less (K2000 to K3000). around the central area shouldnt cost
more than K1000 one way, and K1000 to
Boat K1500 for longer trips. You can also hire
Cross-river ferries to Dalah (US$1), on the a taxi for about K3000 an hour. For the
southern bank of the Yangon River, leave entire day, you should pay from US$15 to
about every 20 minutes from Pansodan St US$30 depending on the quality of the ve-
jetty (for pedestrians), at the foot of Pansodan hicle and your negotiating skills. Be sure
St from the early morning to the evening. to work out all details before you agree to
You can hire privately owned sampans a price and itinerary. From downtown to
(flat-bottomed skiffs) from the Pansodan or the highway bus terminal drivers ask for
Botataung jetties for K500 per hour if you K2500 to K3500 and the trip takes from 45
just want to have a look at the river life. minutes to an hour. To the Hlaing Thar Yar
Bus Terminal taxis charge around K3000.
Bus For all types of taxis the asking fares usu-
Over 40 city bus routes connect the town- ally leap by 30% or so after sunset and on
ships within Yangon. Many buses date to the weekends, when rationed petrol isnt avail-
1940s. Often, theyre impossibly crowded; a able. Late-night taxis after 11pm or so
Myanmar bus is not full until every avail- often cost double the day rate, mainly because
able handhold for those hanging off the sides the supply of taxis on hand is considerably
and back has been taken. Other routes use lower than in the day, so the drivers are able
newer air-conditioned Japanese and Korean to charge more.
buses that arent too bad; some routes also Many drivers speak enough English to
use pick-up trucks with benches in the back. understand directions to your destination
If you can find a space on a bus you can go but its advisable to have someone write
anywhere in central Yangon for K5. Longer them out for you in Burmese as insurance.
routes cost K10 to K20. Prices often double
at night still cheap and still crowded. Train
Useful bus routes include these: A circular train route loops out north from
Bogyoke Aung San Market to Mingala Zei (south- Yangon to Insein, Mingaladon and North
east of Kandawgyi) Japanese pick-up No 1. Okkalapa townships and then back into the
Sule Paya to Thamaing Junction (8 Mile Junction) city. For more info see p104.
Along Insein Rd; bus Nos 44, 45 and 53.
Sule Paya to the airport Via Hledan junction, Pyay Rd, Trishaw
University of Yangon, western side of Inya Lake and Yangon Every Asian country seems to have its own
City Hotel. Blue bus Nos 51, 53 and air-con No 51. interpretation of the bicycle trishaw. In
Kaba Aye Paya to Mae La Mu Paya Bus No 43. Myanmar, trishaw passengers ride with
Sule Paya to Aung Mingalar Bus Station Bus Nos the driver, but back to back one facing
43, 45, 51. forward, one backward. These contraptions
Sule Paya to Hlaing Thar Yar Bus Station Bus Nos are called saiq-ka (as in side-car) and to ride
54, 59 and 96. one costs roughly from K250 to K500.
Insein to Thein Byu Rd Near the YMCA, Three Seasons Nowadays trishaws are not permitted
Hotel and Cozy Guest House. Green pick-up No 48. on the main streets between midnight and
10am. Theyre most useful for side streets
and areas of town where traffic is light.
YA N G O N 126 YA N G O N R u n n i n g S u b h e a d www.lonelyplanet.com
126
Around Yangon
The area around Yangon is a microcosm of the country as a whole. It offers magnificent
temples, unspoiled beaches and little-visited villages clinging to the deltas muddy shores.
Bago, just a short drive from Yangon, is the home of some fabulous Buddhist sights, in-
A R O U N D YA N G O N
cluding many huge Buddha statues. Pathein, the fourth-largest city in Myanmar, is hardly
urban and receives few visitors, but is worth a visit before doing some good old sunbathing
and maybe a bit of snorkelling in Chaungtha Beach or Ngwe Saung.
Travel around parts of the region can be slow and feel like a punch to the solar plexus.
However, many parts can be seen on day trips or longer excursions from the capital. The
vast delta is great for jumping on a ferry transporting local people between the capital
and their waterlogged villages; you can spend the day bopping around a town in a horse
cart and be back in your Yangon hotel in the evening if you so wish. But youll be better
off taking things a bit more leisurely; the regions true allure is only revealed through the
smiles and perseverance of the local people you will meet.
HIGHLIGHTS
The white-sand beaches of Chaungtha

(p135) and Ngwe Saung (p138) offer a
vacation from your vacation Bago
Several gargantuan Buddha statues

Ngwe Chaungtha
(p140) take it easy in Bago Saung YANGON
Pathein
Twante
Life along the delta is a water world
revealed by hopping on a ferry to Pathein
(p134) or Twante (p129)
Shade yourself from the sun with a
parasol (p134) from Pathein
A 115-year-old old boa constrictor at the
Snake Monastery (p144) eats 5kg of
chickens at a time in Bago
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N T h a n l y i n & K y a u k t a n 127
0 50 km
AROUND YANGON 0 30 mi
Hinthada To Pyay To Taungoo (200km);

To Gwa (60km) (200km) Mandalay (560km);
Lemyethna Thonze Inle Lake (570km) Motingyi
Myit
Reservoir
Okkan Payagyi
Zalun
nak
Ngathaingchaung
a Riv
Yakyi YANGON To Kyaiktiyo
Bay of Kyonpyaw Apyauk DIVISION (120km);
Bago
Aye arwady iver
er
Bengal Taikkyi Mawlamyine
Danubyu (200km)
Satthawadaw
y
Athok 1 Kamase
2 Intagwa
Chaungtha Kyaungonn
R
Beach Hmawby Hlegu Onhne
er
Nyaungdon
Riv
Chaungtha Taukkyan Thetkala
Pantanaw
go
Kankyidaung Kayan
Ba
Ngwe Saung Einme
Beach Pathein
YANGON
el
Thanlyin
Ma-ubin Chan
nte Dalah Thongwa
wa
T Twante
Wakema Kanbe
Myaungmya Pyawbwe Kyauktan
AYEYARWADY Ya
ng Kala-ywa
DIVISION on
Ingapu Riv
Kyaiklat Kunyangon er
Daedaye T Letkhokkon
Mawlamyaing-gyun o eR
Pya pon River ive Beach
Bogalay r Ale-ywa
Hpayapon
r
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Labutta
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Getting There & Around the most fertile regions of the country, this
To the west, Pathein is the transport hub vast basin stretching from the Bay of Bengal
with buses and boats to/from Yangon and coast across to the Bago Range receives the
minibuses for getting to Chaungtha and rich nutrients deposited by the Ayeyarwady
Ngwe Saung, two popular beaches on the (Irrawaddy), Bago, Yangon (Hlaing) and
Bay of Bengal. A new bridge and ongoing Pathein (Ngawan) Rivers.
road work have made these two destinations This riverine network irrigates millions
more readily accessible from Pathein. of hectares of farmland, making the delta
Bago, easily reached from Yangon by bus essentially one of the rice bowls of Myan-
or train, is a natural stop before heading mar. In addition, the estuarine environments
north via Taungoo or south to Kyaiktiyo along the coast provide much of the coun-
(Golden Rock) and beyond. trys saltwater and freshwater fish harvest.
Getting to most other places mentioned Because of such natural abundance, the
in this chapter will require some patience, delta is one of Myanmars most populated
particularly if you take public transport. and interesting regions to explore.
The southwest part of the region affords Several communities in the coastal areas
travellers the chance to ride the same river of this region felt the impact of the Decem-
ferries that the locals use. ber 2004 tsunami and the majority of the
resulting deaths reported by the govern-
ment occurred here.
DELTA REGION THANLYIN & KYAUKTAN
Any trip in the delta area, which is criss- on'lY=' ekY;k'tn'"
crossed by tributaries and canals and %065
mostly flat vistas, drives home the regions Though the religious sites in Thanlyin and
vulnerability and reliance on water. One of Kyauktan across the river from Yangon arent
128 D E LTA R E G I O N T w a n t e www.lonelyplanet.com
particularly impressive, trips to the villages launch ferries reserved for foreigners from
themselves reveal how far Yangons relative the riverbank (K1500 return).
cosmopolitanism and urbanity extends
that is, not very far. Although neither place Sleeping & Eating
is especially charming, they do make for an About the only accommodation option, as
easy morning or afternoon escape from the none of the several guesthouses in Thanlyin
hustle and bustle of the capital. proper are licensed to accept foreigners, is
During the late 16th and early 17th cen- the White House Restaurant & Guest House (dishes
turies, Thanlyin was the base for the the about K700), a friendly place about 100m off the
notorious Portuguese adventurer Philip De main road. The guesthouse serves good Chi-
Brito. Officially a trade representative for nese fare in a small air-conditioned caf.
the Rakhaing, he actually ran his own little Near the ferry landing are several food
kingdom from Thanlyin, siding with the vendors.
Mon (when it suited him) in their struggle
against the Bamar. In 1599 his private army Getting There & Away
sacked Bago, but in 1613 the Bamar be- The most convenient way to visit both
sieged Thanlyin and De Brito received the Thanlyin and Kyauktan on the other side
punishment reserved for those who defiled of the Bago River is to hire a taxi in Yangon
Buddhist shrines death by impalement. It (US$10 to US$15 for a half day). By taxi, it
took him two days to die, due, it is said, to takes about 20 minutes to get to Thanlyin.
his failure to take the recommended posture However, if youre passionate about My-
where the stake would have penetrated vital anmars uncomfortable local transport or
organs. Thanlyin continued as a major port are counting kyat, very slow minibuses to
and trading centre until it was destroyed Thanlyin (K200, one hour, 25km) leave fre-
by Bamar king Alaungpaya in 1756, after quently throughout the day from a spot at
which Yangon took over this role. the corner of Bogyoke Aung San and Lower
Pazundaung Rds. It costs an extra K100 if
Sights you continue by minibus from Thanlyin to
Although there is no longer any of this an- Kyauktan and the Yele Paya.
cient city to be seen, Thanlyin is a relaxing In Thanlyin, horse carts are a good way
place, with shaded streets and a busy mar- to get around.
ket to stroll through. A short bus ride out of
town will take you to the large, golden Kyaik- TWANTE
khauk Paya, rising on a hillock to the north tet"
of the road. Its said to contain two Buddha If your time in the delta area is limited,
hairs delivered to the site by the great sage Twante, a small town noted for its pottery,
himself. Most likely the first stupa on this cotton-weaving and an old Mon paya com-
hillock was erected by the Mon 600 to 800 plex, is a worthwhile day trip. Theres a
years ago. If its too hot to climb the stairs, large market in the centre of town really
you can always take the lift for K5. You only a wide, dusty road lined with ram-
can hire a horse cart to the paya for about shackle wooden shops.
K500 each way. The journey to Twante is enjoyable,
Much more interesting if only because it whether you go by hired jeep or ferry. The
includes a short boat ride is Yele Paya (Midriver drive passes through leafy villages, where
Paya; admission US$1) at Kyauktan, 12km south- kids spill out from thatched huts to play.
east of Thanlyin, where the road terminates The ferry provides a glimpse of life on and
at a swiftly moving, wide river. The paya along the famous Twante Canal, which was
(shrine) is appropriately named since the dug during the colonial era as a short cut
complex is perched on a tiny island in the across the Ayeyarwady Delta.
middle of the river. In the temple there are
paintings of other famous paya both in Sights
Myanmar and further afield. Pilgrims feed SHWESANDAW PAYA
crumbs to the weirdly domesticated fish erzet;'.ur;"
splashing about at the temple complexs Standing at 76m tall, this Mon-built zedi
edge. To reach the islet, catch one of the (stupa), a kilometre or two south of the
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N A r o u n d T w a n t e 129
canal, is just a few years younger than the fare is around K300 or so for a front seat
the one at Yangons Shwedagon Paya. In in a jeep; or about K500 for a front seat in a
a chicken-wire enclosure to one side is a pick-up. Come prepared for a crush. Mini-
casual display of ancient Twante pottery, buses (K150) round out the possibilities.
plus religious and royal regalia from early Taxis between Dalah and Twante cost
Mon and Bamar kingdoms. One corner of around K1500 one way per person. Most,
the compound commemorates King Bayin- though, are booked by entire families. For
naungs (also spelt Bayint Nyaung) defeat of comfort and speed its worth asking to
a local rebellion. share one.
Along the western side of the zedi stand The seemingly slower but more scenic
some old bronze Buddhas. Continuing trip along the Yangon River and the Twante
counter clockwise, near the southern en- Canal takes two hours even though its
trance youll come to a 100-year-old sitting only 24km from landing to landing. Al-
bronze Buddha in Mandalay style. Instead though there are several boats that pass
of focusing on the floor, the Buddhas eyes by Twante on their way across the west-
stare straight ahead. ern delta, the most frequent departures are
From the ferry dock to Shwesandaw Paya, aboard Hpayapon-bound craft (ordinary/1st
the cost is K250. A horse cart from Shwe- class US$1/3). These leave from the Hledan
sandaw back to the dock is about K200. Rd and Kaingdan St jetties in Yangon at 7am
and 1pm daily; the latest return trip leaves
OH-BO POTTERY SHEDS Twante at 4pm.
aiu"fiuaiu"lup'=n'" When you add up the waiting times for
Pottery is a major cottage industry in Twan- the cross-river ferry/jeep departure versus
te, which supplies much of the delta region the canal ferry, both modes of transport end
with well-designed, utilitarian containers up taking about the same amount of time
of varying shapes and sizes. The pots are from start to finish. A good way to vary the
made in huge thatched-roof sheds in the trip would be to do the more frequent ferry-
Oh-Bo district south of the canal, about 15 jeep combo out to Twante, then catch one
minutes walk from the dock. of the canal ferries back to Yangon around
Twante pots can be purchased directly sunset when the waterways are the most
from the sheds or, perhaps more conveni- picturesque.
ently, at the central market near the Twante Trishaws and horse carts are great ways
ferry landing. However, transporting these of getting around town.
mostly large and heavy objects to ones
home potentially thousands of miles away AROUND TWANTE
is an iffy proposition. Other interesting delta towns are Labutta
Trishaws from the dock to the pottery and Hpayapon, both of which can be reached
sheds cost K200 per person. by long-distance ferry from Yangon. Find-
ing accommodation is not a certainty in
Getting There & Away & Around these places, so both are destinations for
The most accessible way to get to Twante the adventurous.
from Yangon is via a short cross-river ferry Boats for Hpayapon leave from the Hle-
and public jeep or pick-up ride. Pedes- dan Rd and Kaingdan St jetties in Yangon at
trian ferries from Pansodan St jetty (near 7am and 1pm daily and travel via Twante.
the foot of Pansodan St and opposite the
Strand Hotel) take passengers across the LETKHOKKON BEACH
Yangon River to Dalah (US$1, 20 minutes). lk'xup'kun'"
In Dalah, catch one of the dark green jeeps Travelling to Letkhokkon, about four hours
or pick-ups that leave for Twante every 45 by taxi or jeep from Dalah, is no easy matter
minutes or so throughout the day. Both and in the end not much quicker than visit-
leave only when completely full, so you ing the more beautiful beaches at Chaungtha
can either secure a comfortable front seat and Ngwe Saung. Nevertheless, it is the clos-
early in the loading process or you can hop est beach to the capital.
in the back of a vehicle that looks ready to Located in Kunyangon town, near the
leave. The ride takes 30 to 45 minutes and mouth of the Bago River, Letkhokkon is
130 D E LTA R E G I O N Pa t h e i n www.lonelyplanet.com
a delta beach facing the Gulf of Mottama Its not easy getting to Letkhokkon by
(Martaban), with powder beige sand and public transport. First you must cross to
a very wide tidal bore that tends towards Dalah via the Pansodan St jetty pedestrian
mudflats at its lowest ebb. Copious coconut ferry (US$1, 20 minutes); departures are
palms along the beach help make up for every 20 minutes, starting at 5am and stop-
the less-than-crystalline waters. The lack of ping at 8pm. Ask around on the other side
clarity is part of the estuarial milieu here and in the jammed lot next to the ferry termi-
doesnt mean the water isnt clean. At low nal in Dalah to see if anyones going to
tide the local kids like to stage mud fights. Letkhokkon; usually only a couple of vehi-
An excursion to Letkhokkon is more cles a day do this route direct.
than just a beach trip; it offers a glimpse of Once in Letkhokkon its usually not
relaxed delta life. Along the way, the road difficult to find a vehicle heading back to
passes by rice paddies, betel-nut gardens Dalah.
and several Kayin (or Karen) villages.
Adjacent to the main beach area, the vil- PATHEIN
lage of Letkhokkon itself is a fairly typical puoim
seaside town that thrives on coconuts and %042 / pop 300,000
fishing. Though the town itself isnt too in- For the countrys fourth-largest city Pathein
teresting, theres a long beach nearby called seems compact and small. It receives few
Anauntphettokan (Westward-Moving Beach; visitors so youre likely to draw lots of smiles
named for its heavy sand drift). The beach and curious stares. Most travellers only stop
can be approached by boat from Ingapu or off on their way to the beaches on the west
other spots along the coastline. You can coast, yet the workshops that produce col-
rent a launch for visiting these areas from ourful, hand-painted parasols, along with
the Letkhokkon Beach Hotel. The asking the shady, tree-lined village lanes to the
price is K3000 per hour, but this is negoti- northeast of the market, are worth a stroll,
able for multihour hire. as is the bustling riverside road.
As you approach Letkhokkon from the A boat trip between Pathein and Yangon
north, theres a two-lane, palm-flanked av- along the river where large boats are laid
enue leading off to the right where youll up on the mud flats like dinosaurs taking
see the Letkhokkon Beach Hotel (booking office in their last gasp of air, is a rare window on
Yangon%01-224 346; 68 11th St, Lanmadaw Township, the pattern and pace of the everyday lives
Yangon; s/d US$38/45; a), a tidy row of painted of Burmese in the delta region.
wooden beach bungalows. The hotel has Situated on the eastern bank of the
spacious rooms with mosquito nets and Pathein River (also known as the Ngawan
private bathrooms. The power supply is un- River) in the Ayeyarwady Delta, about
reliable, though. The hotel restaurant serves 120km west of Yangon, Pathein is the most
good seafood. important delta port outside the capital,
despite its distance from the sea. It is sur-
Getting There & Away rounded by a major rice-growing area that
Vehicle ferries (passengers US$5, 15 mi- produces the best rice available in Myan-
nutes) cross the Yangon River to Dalah mar, including a high-quality variety called
from Sin Oh Dan St jetty between 18th and pawsanmwe tmn (fragrant rice). The
19th Sts in Yangon at 9am, 1pm and 5pm. growth of the delta trade, particularly rice
The road between Dalah and Letkhokkon is exports, has contributed to a general air of
in very poor condition in places. Count on prosperity in the city.
close to four hours to complete the journey
from Dalah without stops; more by public History
transport. The town is of some historic interest and
Expect to pay about K5000 each way to was the scene for major clashes during the
hire a car or jeep from Dalah to make the struggle for supremacy between the Mon
trip. Of course you could always hire a car and the Bamar. Later it became an impor-
and driver in Yangon; however, some driv- tant trade relay point for goods moving be-
ers refuse to do the trip because the road is tween India and Southeast Asia. The citys
so hard on their vehicles. name may derive from the Burmese word
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N Pa t h e i n 131
0 1 km
PATHEIN 0 0.5 miles
A B C D
To Ngwe Saung Beach (46km);
Chaungtha Beach (57km)
INFORMATION Monastery.................................10 A4
Hospital........................................1 B3 Mosque.....................................11 A4
1 Police Station...............................2 A4 Night Market..............................12 B3
Post Office...................................3 B3 Pwo Karen Church.....................13 B2
St Peter's Cathedral....................14 B4
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES School........................................15 C2
City Hall.......................................4 B3 School........................................16 C2
Clock Tower.................................5 B3 Settayaw Paya...........................17 D1 33 17
Customs House............................6 B3 Shwenokhtaw Paya....................18 B3
Division Office.............................7 C2 Shwezigon Paya.........................19 B2
Hindu Temple..............................8 B4 Twenty-Eight
Monastery...................................9 A4 Paya.......................................20 C2
To Bus
Terminal (800m);
13 Yangon (180km)
St
St
2 19 ola
15 ndo
Ba
one
yag
20
35 da
Ya
16
St
ra
nd
7
Rd
Rd
25 an doola
Mahab SLEEPING
5
La Pyat Wun Hotel.....................21 B3
Pa
Paradise Guest House.................22 B4

t
he
Mingyi Rd
3 Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn...................23 B3

in
Ri
Taan Taan Ta Guest House &

Merchant St
1 Creek
ve
12
3 Restaurant..............................24 B3
r
6 26 29
18 EATING
Golden Land Restaurant.............25 B3
4 30
34 Ka Ka Gyi Myanmar Restaurant..26 B3
28
Shwezedi Rd 23 Me Me Lay Teashop...................27 B3
24
Central Market 27 21 Mya Nan Dar Restaurant.........(see 30)
Nga Wun Irra Restaurant............28 B3
Zegyaung St Shwe Kaung Restaurant.............29 B3
22 Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant...........30 B3
9 Myenu Rd Zee Bae Inn................................31 B4
Bwetgyi St
Ohnmar SHOPPING
Rd
2 dandi St 31
Parasol Workshops.....................32 B4
n
io
32 14
at
4 Kala Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop....33 D1

St
11 10 dan
St
TRANSPORT
8 To Mahabodhi Mingala Bus Tickets.................................34 B3
Train
Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw (500m); Station Buses to Chaungtha &
Leikyunyuang Paya (2km) Ngwesaung............................35 B2
for Muslim pathi due to the heavy pres- Sights & Activities
ence of Arab and Indian Muslim traders If you want to check out Patheins parasol
here centuries ago. The colonial Brits or workshops, see p134.
more likely their imported Indian civil ser- The following sights dont charge an ad-
vants corrupted the name to Bassein. mission fee.
Today, Patheins population includes large
contingents of Kayin (Karen) and Rakha- SHWEMOKHTAW PAYA
ing. Although once part of a Mon kingdom, ermueq;.ur;"
Pathein is now home to only a few Mon. In the centre of Pathein, near the river-
During the 70s and 80s, the Kayin villages front, looms the golden, bell-shaped stupa
surrounding Pathein generated insurgent ac- at Shwemokhtaw Paya. One legend says
tivity that has since generally calmed. it was originally built by Indias Buddhist
king Asoka in 305 BC as a small stupa called
Information Shwe Arna. Standing 2.3m tall, this original
Despite the city being one of Myanmars larg- stupa supposedly enshrined Buddha relics
est, there are no banks here offering foreign and a 6in (15cm) gold bar. Another legend
exchange and there are no Internet services. says a Muslim princess named Onmadandi
requested each of her three Buddhist lovers SETTAYAW PAYA

to build a stupa in her honour. One of the ck'et;'r;.ur;"
lovers erected Shwemokhtaw, the others the Of the several lesser-known ones in Pathein,
less distinguished Tazaung and Thayaung- perhaps the most charming is this paya
gyaung paya. dedicated to a mythical Buddha footprint
Whichever story you choose to believe, left by the Enlightened One during his leg-
Bagans King Alaungsithu is thought to endary perambulations through mainland
have erected an 11m stupa called Htupayon Southeast Asia.
over this site in AD 1115. Then, in 1263, The paya compound wraps over a couple
King Samodagossa took power, raised the of green hillocks that are dotted with well-
stupa to 40m and changed the name to constructed tazaung (shrine buildings)
Shwemokhtaw Paya, which means Stupa of altogether a nice setting and a change from
the Half-Foot Gold Bar. the flat paya compounds near the river. The
The stupas main shape has remained the footprint symbol itself is the usual oblong,
same since Samodagossas reign, although 1m-long impression and not very interest-
the changing of the decorative hti (um- ing. Very visible in the compound is a gar-
brellalike decorated top) has increased the ishly painted 11m standing Buddha.
height to its present 46.6m. The current
hti consists of a topmost layer made from OTHER RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS
6.3kg of solid gold, a middle tier of pure One of the standard sights in town is the
silver and a bottom tier of bronze; all three so-called Twenty-Eight Paya, a rectangular
tiers are gilded and reportedly embedded shrine building containing 28 sitting and
with a total of 829 diamond fragments, 843 28 standing Buddha images none of them
rubies and 1588 semiprecious stones. are particularly distinguished except that
The southern shrine of the compound the latter appear in the open-robe style
houses the Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi sitting rather than the closed-robe pose typical of
Buddha image, which supposedly floated Mandalay standing images. At one end of
to the delta coast on a raft sent from Sri the hall stands a group of crude sculptures
Lanka during ancient times. According to depicting a scene from the Buddhas life.
legend, an unknown Sinhalese sculptor Its a short walk from Patheins main um-
fashioned four different Buddha images brella workshops. You may have to ask the
using pieces from the original Bodhi Tree caretaker to unlock the building.
mixed with a cement composite. He then More interesting from an artistic per-
placed the images on four wooden rafts and spective is Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw (Tagaung
set the rafts adrift on the ocean. One landed Paya), centred around a graceful stupa that
in Dawei (Tavoy), and is now housed at sweeps inward from a wide, whitewashed
the Shinmokhti Paya; another landed at base to a gleaming silver superstructure.
Kyaikkami (Amherst), and is now at Yele Look for the small squirrel sculpture ex-
Paya; the third landed at Kyaiktiyo and is tending from the western side of the upper
now at Kyaikpawlaw; and the fourth landed stupa and representing a previous life of the
near Phondawpyi, a fishing village about Buddha as a squirrel. One of the pavilions
97km south of Pathein. In 1445 the Mon at the base of the stupa contains a very large
queen Shinsawpu purportedly had the sitting Buddha image. Local legend says the
latter image brought up to Pathein, then stupa is the same age as Shwemokhtaw, but
known as Kuthima. like other famous stupas in Myanmar, the
A marble standing Buddha positioned in truth is buried beneath several layers of royal
a niche in the fence running along the west- renovations. The latest refurbishing was car-
ern side of the stupa marks a spot where ried out in 1979. Tagaung Paya is about 3km
Mon warriors once prayed before going south of Kaladan St, past the railway line.
off to battle. In the northwestern corner West of Tagaung Paya, a little way to-
of the compound is a shrine dedicated to wards the river, stands Mahabodhi Mingala
Shin Upagot, the Bodhisattva who floats on Zedi, patterned after the world-famous Ma-
the ocean and appears to those in trouble. habodhi stupa in Bodhgaya, India. Leikyuny-
Turtles swim in the water surrounding the naung Paya, a couple of kilometres directly
small pavilion. south of Mahabodhi, was renovated by the
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N Pa t h e i n 133
State Law & Order Restoration Council La Pyat Wun Hotel (%24669; 30 Min Gyi Rd; s/d
(Slorc), now the State Peace and Develop- US$15/25; a) This newcomer to Pathein is a
ment Council (SPDC), using forced labour squeaky clean all-white multistorey build-
in the early 1990s to create a facsimile of ing. Rooms have private bathroom, hot-
Ananda Paya in Bagan. Since the renova- water shower and TV.
tion few people outside the government Sein Pyae Hlyan Inn (%22985; 32 Shwezedi Rd; s/d
worship here. US$8/10; a) A step down from the others, the
A kilometre or so northeast of Leikyuny- Sein Pyae Hlyan is more austere, though the
naung Paya is Leimyetna Paya, which features unadorned concrete rooms do have TVs
a large, but particularly ugly, sitting Bud- and air-con.
dha. Even aesthetically worse is the gaudily Those hoping to avoid government-
painted sitting Buddha at Shwezigon Paya, at owned properties should steer clear of the
the northern end of town. Pathein Hotel, a two-storey building on
spacious grounds near the bus station.
MARKETS
At the night market (Strand Rd) that is set up Eating
each evening in front of Customs House, Eating out in Pathein is limited to a few un-
teenagers cruise, flirt and hang out while spectacular restaurants that do basic Bamar
vendors purvey food, clothing and tools and and Chinese.
just about every other requisite for daily life Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant (24/25 Shwezedi Rd;
at low prices. Just south of Shwemokhtaw sweet & sour chicken K1300) Near Merchant St, this
Paya is the central market, and just south of restaurant does Bamar and Chinese cuisine
that is a newer market, with all manner of with good curries and soups.
goods. Both of these markets are closed on Ka Ka Gyi Myanmar Restaurant (68 Mingalar St;
Sunday. meals K1000) Across from Shwemokhtaw Paya,
this place offers fish, vegetable and meat
Festivals & Events curries.
The people of Pathein celebrate Vesakha (a Golden Land Restaurant (Merchant St; mains around
celebration of the Buddhas birth, enlight- K2000;huntil 10pm) Just north of the clock
enment and passing away) with a huge paya tower, this restaurant has a nice, quiet,
pwe (pagoda festival) during the full moon front-yard, open-air eating area. The menu
of Kason (April/May). The festival is held is a wide-ranging mixture of Chinese and
at the Shwemokhtaw Paya. Bamar dishes, including some seafood. Its
pricey by Pathein standards.
Sleeping Zee Bae Inn (Merchant St; dishes K1000;huntil
Most of the hotels electricity supplies are at 10pm;a) Zee Bae is among the more well-
the mercy of the citywide rationing schedule, known and longest-running Chinese places.
which means power generally is available It is a saloon-style, popular little place that
from early evening to early morning. has been serving large bowls of noodles and
Taan Taan Ta Guest House & Restaurant other Chinese dishes since the 1950s. The
(%22290; 7 Merchant St; s US$5-7, d US$6-10; a) downstairs area opens onto the street, while
At five storeys, this centrally located hotel upstairs theres an air-con dining room.
is one of Patheins tallest. The Taan Taan Nga Wun Irra Restaurant (cnr Shwezedi & Strand
offers simple, brightly painted and clean Rds; mains from K300; huntil 9pm) It is a pleasant
rooms with private bathroom. Larger and little dinner spot next to the night market
more expensive rooms with more sunlight down by the water. This simple place offers
are on the top floor. friendly service but, strangely enough, only
Paradise Guest House (%25055; 14 Zay Chaung chicken, pork and vegetable dishes no
Rd; r US$10; a) Another Pathein high rise, seafood.
the Paradise is alongside the canal a block Other recommendations:
from the market. Rooms here are slightly Shwe Kaung Restaurant (dishes K1000) On the same
more modern than those at the Taan Taan, block as the Ka Ka Gyi.
ie they have TVs, though the low ceilings in Mya Nan Dar Restaurant (dishes K1000) This place
some make it feel cramped. For late nights is equally as good as the Shwe Kaung and serves tasty
a karaoke lounge is attached. Bamar dishes.
Shopping Pathein. Ordinary class costs US$7, and

Most of the umbrellas made in Pathein puts you on the open deck (with an easy
are actually parasols; ie they arent water- chair if you get in early). For US$42 you can
proof, but are used to counter the hot delta get an air-conditioned cabin with private
sun. There are a few workshops scattered bathroom. These express boats leave Yan-
throughout the northern part of the city, gons Lan Thit jetty daily at 5pm, arriving
particularly in the vicinity of Twenty-Eight the next morning in Pathein at 10am. For-
Paya, off Mahabandoola Rd. The parasols eigners must buy tickets from the deputy
come in a variety of colours; some are division managers office next to Building
brightly painted with flowers, birds and 63 on Lan Thit jetty.
other nature motifs. One type that can be A more luxurious option worth every
used in the rain is the saffron-coloured kyat is a river cruise aboard the Delta Queen
monks umbrella, which is waterproofed (in Yangon% 01-246 752; www.myanmar-rivercruises
by applying various coats of tree resin; a .com; 343 Bo Aung Kyaw St, Yangon; per person US$170)
single umbrella may take five days to com- between Pathein and Yangon (20 hours).
plete, including the drying process. Parasols All cabins are done in teak and there are
and umbrellas can be ordered in any size two special family rooms with large pic-
directly from the workshops. The parasols ture windows on three sides facing directly
are reasonably priced, even cheap, though out the front of the boat. Both the dining
Burmese seem to prefer foreign-made mod- area and lounge/bar area are tastefully done
ern umbrellas. Several shops in Pathein sell but the real highlight is the superb five-
cheaply made smaller parasols with bright, course dinner and concert that the nine
fluffy pompoms, not good for either deco- staff members put on for guests after dinner.
ration or protection from the elements. During high season the Delta Queen gener-
Workshops welcome visitors who want ally makes one round trip a week.
to observe this craft.
Shwe Sar Umbrella Workshop (%25127; frangi BUS
[email protected]; 653 Tawya Kyaung Rd; h8am- Buses to Pathein are available from Yangons
5pm) This family-run workshop with high- Hlaing Thar Yar bus station, a 45-minute to
quality work is just around the corner from one-hour taxi ride (K3000) west of the city
the Settawyar Pagoda. If you decide to pur- on the other side of the Yangon (Hlaing)
chase these beautiful handiworks in bulk River. From here, there are several depar-
you wont find the same quality elsewhere, tures from 5am to 1pm to Pathein (three to
even in Yangon they can be securely and four hours, 181km). The cost depending
conveniently packaged. on the standard of bus can range from
K1000 to K3000. Most are comfortable and
Getting There & Away have TV, reclining cushioned seats and air
AIR conditioning, though they probably wont
Pathein has an airstrip out at the north- turn it on. You can buy same-day tickets for
eastern edge of the city, but at the time of any of the departures or most hotels can ar-
writing it didnt field any regularly sched- range bookings for you. Be prepared to ask
uled flights. However, newcomer Bagan Air around, though there are usually enough
(BA) was planning to start daily flights in ticket touts around to help you out and take
the high season between Pathein and Yan- their small commission.
gon (US$40, 25 minutes) and Heho (US$88, Generally uncomfortable Thi Ha and
one hour). There were also plans to link Shwe Min Than minibuses ply the route
up with ground transport to Ngwe Saung from Pathein to Chaungtha Beach (K2500,
Beach in order to compete with Ngapali as 2 hours, 58km); departures are 7am, 11am
an easily accessible beach destination for and 1pm from Patheins bus station on Yada-
high-end travellers. yagone St. Ask your guesthouse if its pos-
sible to book a seat on the more comfortable
BOAT YangonChaungtha buses (see p138). Youll
Inland Water Transport (IWT; Map p98; in Yangon%01- be asked to pay the full fare but its worth
284 055; Lan Thit jetty, Yangon) operates Chinese it. This author experienced one of the most
triple-decker ferries between Yangon and miserable bus rides of his miserable bus
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N A r o u n d Pa t h e i n 135
ridefull life here; because of sacks of rice matter what the time of year, beach activ-
and vegetables piled on the floor there was ity is at its height in the afternoon when
no room for his legs to go except up to his children take their first horse ride, freelance
chin for the entire 2 hours. photographers comb the beach on the look-
Shwe Min Than buses take around 1 out for their next shoot, fully clothed fami-
hours to travel the 46km from Pathein to lies wade into the water en masse, teenage
Ngwe Saung (K2500); departures are at 7am, girls stroll hand in hand, and elaborate pic-
9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm from Yadayagone nics are staged only to be broken up by the
St as well. path of a wayward football from one of the
many impromptu games.
TAXI As Western beaches go, the sand and
Share taxis for up to four people can be water arent as pristine as nearby Ngwe
arranged from your hotel in Pathein for Saung or Ngapali. At low tide the very wide
Chaungtha (K30,000), Ngapali (K100,000), beach has a touch of the muddy delta look
Ngwe Saung (K30,000) and also Yangon though there is a gorgeous long, white-sand
(K40,000). beach only a 15-minute walk north of town,
where youre likely to have the entire ex-
AROUND PATHEIN panse to yourself save for the rare local or
Horseshoe-shaped Inye Lake, 70km northeast other foreigners scouting for privacy and a
of the city near the village of Kyonpyaw, is a little shade. The village of Chaungtha itself
favourite weekend picnic spot. Local fisher- is a few blocks of guesthouses, restaurants
men sell fresh fish from the lake. and souvenir shops selling T-shirts. There
If you follow the Pathein River south is a post office.
till it empties into the Andaman Sea youll Most Chaungtha residents fish, or farm
reach Mawdin Point (Mawdinsoun), the site coconuts for a living; a couple of families
of a famous festival during the lunar month also make furniture using rattan collected
of Tabodwe (February/March). On the sea in nearby jungles. Many villagers speak the
side of the cape, at its point, is a sandy beach Rakhaing dialect.
and the revered stupa of Mawdin Paya.
During the Mawdin Point festival there Sights & Activities
are special boats running from Pathein The village market is most active from 6am
daily. Other times, boats go only once a to 9am. East of the main village area is a
week or so, leaving the main Pathein jetty mangrove swamp and a canal beach with
around 6am and arriving at 2pm. Be aware a wooden jetty. On the canal side of the
that theres no lodging licensed for foreign- peninsula are rickety stilted structures used
ers at Mawdin, so this is strictly a trip for by the villagers for drying fish.
risk-takers. During the festival more guest-
houses are open, which makes it the best BOATING TRIPS
time of year to attempt a trip. Offshore lies a modest coral reef with de-
There are some elephant camps in the area, cent snorkelling except during the rainy sea-
providing visitors with an opportunity to son, when water clarity is poor. Snorkelling
see these pachyderms go about their daily trips for up to six people cost K30,000 and
work routine. The best places to organise a can be booked through hotels. Several ho-
visit to one are at the hotels in Ngwe Saung tels can also rent the gear for K1000; there
or Chaungtha. are a few small reefs in the waters to the
north.
CHAUNGTHA BEACH Whitesand Island can be explored in a day
exY;='"s;km'"ex trip from Chaungtha Beach. A boat (K3000
%042 one way, one hour) leaves for the island at
A trip to Chaungtha Beach, 40km west of 8am daily, returning at 5pm. Theres good
Pathein on the Bay of Bengal, is a chance to swimming and snorkelling around the is-
experience what the Myanmar middle class land, as well as a stall selling cold drinks
does on vacation. The beach gets especially and snacks, but theres only three trees for
crowded on holiday weekends when local shade. For more information, ask at any
tourists are ferried in by the busload. No of the hotels or guesthouses in Chaungtha,
136 D E LTA R E G I O N C h a u n g t h a B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com
INFORMATION
Post Office...............................................................................1 B4
0 200 m
0 0.1 miles SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Kyauk Pahto............................................................................2 A3
A B Market.....................................................................................3 B3
To Magyi Village Pyilon Chanthar Zedi................................................................4 B4
(11.5km) Ywama Monastery...................................................................5 B4
1
SLEEPING
To Pathein A Yar Oo Resort Hotel.............................................................6 B2
(40km);
Yangon Ambo Resort Hotel..................................................................7 B2
(220km) Chaungtha Oo Beach Hotel.....................................................8 A1
8 Discovery Inn...........................................................................9 A4
Golden Beach Hotel...............................................................10 B2
19 Grand Hotel Chaungtha Beach...............................................11 B2
Happy World.........................................................................12 B2
7 Hotel Max Chaungtha Beach.................................................13 A4

15 Lai Lai Chaungtha Beach Hotel..............................................14 A3
Lin Thit Sar Hotel...................................................................15 B2
6 16 Mariners Lodge.....................................................................16 B2
11 Mayko Guest House..............................................................17 A4
2 Chaungtha See Seim Hotel......................................................................18 A3
Bay Shwe Hin Tha Hotel...............................................................19 A2
20 Thiri Chaungtha Beach Hotel.................................................20 B2
12 Win Guest House...................................................................21 B3
10 Zaw Mart
Store EATING
Chaungtha Seafood Restaurant.............................................22 B4
Pearl Restaurant.....................................................................23 B4
William Restaurant.................................................................24 B4
18
William Restaurant.................................................................25 B3
SHOPPING
Main Rd
Souvenir Vendors...................................................................26 B4
3 TRANSPORT
21
Bus Station.............................................................................27 B3
25
2
3
accommodation. Few people from the in-
Lan Madaw
14
27
1
terior visit during the southwest monsoon
26 24
13 Hospital season, and traditionally all but a few hotels
St
22 Bogyoke St
close down from 15 May to 15 September;
Sayonphat
23
4 5 those that remain open discount room rates.
Because of a hotel building boom in recent
4 Ywathit St
17 years theres not much room left for further
9
development. At the time of research there
Hpokkala
Kyun To Canal Beach was talk of a new telephone system being
To Ferry Jetty
(500m) installed in Chaungtha, so all the numbers
listed may change in the near future.
or contact U Tin Ohn (%24880), the islands BUDGET

Chaungtha-based manager. Shwe Hin Tha Hotel (%24098, in Yangon %01-650
Several hotels, including the Shwe Hin 588; s US$5-18, d US$10-25; a) The only beach-
Tha (ask for Nay Min), can arrange fishing front hotel with budget prices, this is a pop-
trips and provide all the necessary equip- ular backpacker choice. There are a number
ment for K20,000 to K30,000. of friendly and eager English-speaking staff
Ferry services to nearby villages along the members, and more importantly its located
canal are still available from the canal jetty. on the quiet end of the beach. The cheap-
est rooms are small blue wooden bunga-
OTHER ACTIVITIES lows with private porches looking out onto
You can rent canoes for about K700 a half- the hotel courtyard. Larger, more expen-
day, or bicycles for about K300 per hour or sive rooms have ocean views. There is a
K500 a day, at hotels and guesthouses. small library with foreign-language books.
Kyaw Kgi (George) is a knowledgeable and
Sleeping friendly guide ([email protected])
Of all the beach destinations in Myan- or at the hotel. Shwe Hin Tha is the first
mar, Chaungtha offers the most affordable hotel you pass coming from Pathein.
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N C h a u n g t h a B e a c h 137
Several budget places set back from the distinguish itself from its rivals, with simi-
beach are worth a look. larly uninspiring bungalow rooms. More
Win Villa (s/d US$3/6) The clean but basic expensive ones have air-con. The water-
rooms in this attractive teak home are good front restaurant serves some Thai dishes
value. The Win has a balcony on the 2nd and is a perfect place to catch a sunset.
floor, but there is no hot water. Breakfast Lai Lai Chaungtha Beach Hotel (%22587; lailai
is included. [email protected]; s/d US$18/25; a) One of
Other options include Mariners Lodge (s/d the oldest hotels in Chaungtha, this place is
US$5/10), with no-frills, hotel-style rooms; now a little frayed around the edges. Stand-
and the strange large, blue A-frame Happy ard rooms have a fan and private bathroom.
World (s/d US$5/10), with basic clean rooms but Superior rooms come with air-con, fridge
no hot water. and TV.
Several other budget-level guesthouses Other recommendations:
are clustered around the village. Among A Yar Oo Resort Hotel (%24880; s US$7-15, d US$14-
the cleanest and friendliest are Discovery Inn 20; a) Rooms here are not in the best condition. Higher
(s/d US$3/6) and Mayko Guest House (s/d US$5/10). priced rooms have air-con.
Rooms at both come with a fan and private See Seim Hotel (%22909; r US$22) A sprawling place
bathroom and have Western-style toilets. right on the beach with clean, bungalow-style rooms with
The Discovery Inn has four thatched bam- fan and private bathroom. The rooms are a little gloomy.
boo bungalows. The hotels restaurant is quite good.
Thiri Chaungtha Beach Resort Hotel (in Yangon
MIDRANGE %01-578 649; s/d US$20/25; a) Rambling place
Chaungtha Oo Beach Hotel (%22888, in Yangon popular with Myanmar people.
%01-254 708; r US$25-35; a) Popular with UN
and foreign-embassy staff, this hotel at the TOP END
quiet northernmost end of the beach has Hotel Max Chaungtha Beach (%24966; www.hotel
large, bright blue-and-green chalets, each maxchaungthabeach.com; r US$70-100; ais )
with delightful private porches. The more This luxury resort appears somewhat out of
expensive rooms have hot water, and the place next to its more modest neighbours.
complimentary breakfast is served in a The Max opened in 2003 directly across
pleasant all-wood wraparound porch. from the village. Theres a long driveway
Grand Hotel Chaungtha Beach Resort (%23001; to the portico entrance that reveals large
s US$18-25, d US$20-30; a) It has nice, clean, red-roofed villas and landscaped grounds.
well-kept rooms, modern bathrooms with Facilities include tennis courts, minigolf,
bathtubs, private porches, all-white bunga- billiards, massage parlour and spa. Theres
lows, attractive grounds and a restaurant on an excellent restaurant with nightly buffet
the beach. The more expensive rooms have dinners served outside.
seaside views.
Golden Beach Hotel (%24126; r US$10-25; as) Eating
The big, bright beachside bungalows come Most hotels and guesthouses also have small
with individual back and front porches, and restaurants; the Shwe Hin Thas is particu-
comfortable, modern bathrooms. A pool is larly pleasant. William Restaurant (dishes K1000),
set in the middle of the attractive grounds. which does Bamar and Chinese cuisine
Cheaper rooms with fans are across the street has two locations, one on the main road and
in the new annexe. Some are US$6 during the other in the village. The main street of
the low season. There's a good Chinese the village is lined with seafood restaurants.
restaurant attached. Most offer mains of good freshly caught
Linn Thit Sar Hotel (%22802; s US$10-20, d US$15- seafood lobster, clams, scallops, prawns,
30; a) Its unfortunate theres not more pri- and fish for around K800 to K2000: Pearl
vacy on this part of the beach because the Restaurant and Chaungtha Sea Food Res-
rooms at the Linn Thit Sar are clean and taurant are especially recommended.
attractive. The more expensive rooms have There are also a few teashops along this
air-con. strip, one of which opens early in the morn-
Ambo Resort Hotel (% 22903; s US$18-20, d ing and serves decent hsi tmn (turmeric-
US$20-25; a) The Ambo doesnt especially coloured sticky rice topped with sesame
138 D E LTA R E G I O N N g w e S a u n g www.lonelyplanet.com
seeds and shredded coconut) and other without first having to go through Yangon
Bamar tea snacks. and Pyay. Its apparently a demanding three-
day journey on very local minibuses.
Getting There & Away & Around
BICYCLE TAXI
Some hotels rent bicycles for K300 per hour. Share taxis for up to four people to Pathein
(K30,000) and Yangon (K70,000) can be ar-
BOAT ranged with your hotels assistance.
The only way to get to Ngwe Saung Beach
without first going through Pathein is to NGWE SAUNG
hire a boat in Chaungtha. This can be ar- e=ez;='
ranged with your hotel or simply by showing This beautiful white-sand beach, also known
up at the pier, however the latter method is as Silver Beach, facing the Bay of Bengal is
difficult without some ability to speak Bur- in the early stages of being developed and
mese. The trip costs K25,000 for the entire marketed as a rival destination to Ngapali
boat and takes around 1 hours. further north. Several top-end bungalow-
style resorts are already firmly established
BUS and several more are in the works, and few
The rough 36km road between Chaungtha accommodation options cater for people
and Pathein can be traversed in two hours on small budgets or local vacationers. The
by private car; public minibuses and pick- beach stretches much longer and is more
ups usually take about 2 hours. Several pristine than nearby Chaungtha Beach.
companies plan to run larger, nicer and The village itself now sits roughly half-
more modern buses between the two towns way along the length of the 14.5km stretch
in the near future. A new suspension bridge of coastline the government ordered it
over the Pathein River does away with the moved lock, stock and barrel about 100m.
previous ferry-crossing hassles and accom- Several of the resorts can arrange day
panying US$5 fare between Pathein and trips to an elephant camp halfway between
Chaungtha or Ngwe Saung beaches. Parts Ngwe Saung and Pathein.
of the road to Chaungtha are unsealed. The
road passes through nearly-barren scrub- Sleeping
land before crossing the U Do Chaung by Several luxurious resorts were in some stage
bridge, and after that climbs forested hills of construction at the time of research. Con-
to an elevation of around 300m. This area tinued progress for some seems to depend
is said to be inhabited by elephants, mon- on the not-unimportant variable of having
keys and leopards; at one point youll pass customers. The devastating 2004 tsunami
through a lush forest reserve. From there, was felt here, and despite the very minimal
the road descends into an area of coconut damage business appears to have been badly
groves and rice paddies. Over half the vil- affected. Theres no lack of space for fur-
lages passed along the way are Kayin. ther development but the government seems
For transport info on getting to Chaung- committed to controlling the pace, size and
tha from Pathein see p134. Uncomfortable nature of the resorts mostly top-end. The
minibuses leave from Chaungtha Beach for road gets progressively worse the further
Pathein (K2500, 2 hours) at 7am, 11am and south one travels from the village to the point
1pm from the bus station in the village. where only 4WD vehicles can safely navigate
Comfortable large air-conditioned buses through the rough and sandy patches. Be
(Shwe Pyi Lwin is the best company) leave aware that some hotels are located on this
from Chaungtha Beach for Yangon at 7am stretch of road. The phone system here is
(K5000 to K6000, six to seven hours). Com- unreliable so its recommended to contact
ing from Yangon, buses leave from Hlaing the Yangon number if there is one.
Thar Yar bus station to Chaungtha leaving
several times daily in the morning until MIDRANGE
lunchtime. Golden Sea Resort (in Yangon %01-241 747; s/d
Its theoretically possible to travel north US$15/20) This is the cheapest place to stay in
via the town of Gwa all the way to Ngapali Ngwe Saung at the moment. The rooms in
www.lonelyplanet.com D E LTA R E G I O N N g w e S a u n g 139
the Golden Seas small wooden bungalows including a few posh bungalow suites. All
are simply furnished. A basic breakfast is the rooms are classy and cosy, a mix of teak,
included. bamboo and modern amenities. Palm trees
Yamonnar Oo Resort (in Yangon %01-726 413; s/d tower over the manicured grounds and
US$25/35) Not really a resort, the Yamonnar theres a large marble reception area.
Oo has a few green wooden bungalows. The
rooms are unadorned but clean. Eating
Silver View Beach Resort (in Yangon%01-512 Youll have to generally rely on your hotels
681 ext 318; s/d US$20/25; a) Rather than being cooking because most of the accommoda-
rustically charming like others in this price tion, apart from the Treasure Beach Resort,
category, the Silver View Beach is motel- is too far from the village to make eating at
like, and not especially suited to the beach. one of the several restaurants there conveni-
The rooms are relatively more modern, but ent. In the village, the See Sar Restaurant
the grounds are crowded with a decaying and Charlie Restaurant have English menus
childrens jungle gym. and serve seafood (K2000) and some stand-
Yuzana Resort (in Yangon%01-581 100; r US$25-50; ard Bamar and Chinese dishes.
a) Because of its size its hard for the Yu-
zana to not feel abandoned. This hotel, the Getting There & Away & Around
first built at the beach in 2000, has a large. See p134 for details on possible flights from
hangarlike reception area and 133 rooms in Yangon and Heho to Pathein with transport
low-slung buildings spread out in a large links to Ngwe Saung.
compound. It has a large terrace restaurant Buses going from Yangon to Ngwe Saung
with good seafood. (K5000, five hours) leave from the Hlaing
Thar Yar bus terminal, west of the Yangon
TOP END River and a 45-minute to one-hour taxi ride
Treasure Beach Resort (in Yangon%01-501 565; www from the city centre. There are several de-
.myanmartreasurebeach.com; cottages US$85-100; mains partures from around 7am to 2pm.
US$8; ais) The nicest of all the resorts Minibuses from Pathein (K2500, two
and occupying the best location just one hours) stop first at the intersection between
minutes walk from the village, the Treas- the beginning of the village and the Treas-
ure Beach is also one of the oldest. Its very ure Beach Resort. If staying further south
well managed, the grounds are meticulously the bus should be able to drop you at your
manicured and the spacious bungalows have resort; conversely, you should be able to
satellite TVs and porches ideal for sunset catch the bus leaving Ngwe Saung (7am,
viewing. Reminiscent of a private, high- 9am, 11am, 1pm and 3pm) by waiting by
end Balinese resort, the Treasure Beach is the side of the road. If youre staying north
sophisticatedly laid back. The restaurant of the village youll have to hire transport
serves reasonably priced European and or walk.
Bamar meals. The breakfast buffet (part of The upmarket resorts such as the Treas-
the price) includes hard-to-find cereal and ure Beach and Palm Beach offer van serv-
French toast. ices to customers from either Pathein (1
Palm Beach Resort (in Yangon %01-581 100; www hours) or Yangon (four hours) but the
.thepalmbeachresort.com; r US$60-80; mains US$13; a vans dont come cheap. Share taxis can be
is) The beautiful, long and narrow cen- arranged for Ngwe Saung from Pathein
tral building at the upmarket Palm Beach, (K30,000) and Yangon (K70,000).
south of the village, leads to an infinity There is no way to get to Ngwe Saung by
pool perched over the beach. The grounds road from Chaungtha without first going
here are unexpectedly unkempt. Its res- through Pathein. If coming by boat from
taurant has an interesting but expensive Chaungtha (K25,000 for entire boat, 1
menu. The hotel is closed from May to hours) ask to be dropped off as close to
late October. your hotel as possible, though this is de-
Sunny Paradise Resort (in Yangon % 01-546 pendent on the tide and water depth at each
002; www.sunnyparadise.net; s US$55-80, d US$65-105; location.
ais) This upscale resort north of the There are a few trishaws available to
village is a compound of several buildings carry you short distances.
140 N O R T H O F YA N G O N Ta u k k y a n www.lonelyplanet.com
NORTH OF YANGON THE HAMSA

In deference to legend, the symbol for Bago
TAUKKYAN is a female hamsa (hintha or hantha in Bur-
eq;k'k mese; a mythological bird) standing on the
On the road to Bago, beyond Yangons air- back of a male hamsa. At a deeper level,
port at Mingaladon, you reach Taukkyan, the symbol honours the compassion of the
where the road to Pyay forks off to the male hamsa in providing a place for the fe-
northwest, while the Bago and Mandalay male to stand in the middle of a lake with
road continues on to the northeast. Shortly only one island. Hence, the men of Bago are
beyond the junction is the huge Taukkyan said to be more chivalrous than men from
War Cemetery with the graves of 6374 Al- other Burmese areas. In popular Burmese
lied soldiers who died in the Burma and culture, however, men joke that they dare
Assam campaigns of WWII. There is also a not marry a woman from Bago for fear of
memorial bearing the names of the almost being henpecked!
27,000 soldiers who died with no known
grave. Maintained by the Commonwealth
War Graves Commission, the cemetery is a royal capital called Hanthawady (from
beautifully landscaped. the Pali-Sanskrit Hamsavati, meaning the
You can get to Taukkyan on a No 9 bus Kingdom of the Swan) at the edge of the
from Yangon or aboard any Bago-bound lake. During the later Mon dynastic peri-
bus from either the Aung Mingalar Bus ods (12871539), Hanthawady became the
(Highway) Terminal or the Tha-khin Mya centre of the Mon kingdom of Ramanadesa,
Pan-gyan Gate terminal (see p90). which consisted of all southern Myanmar.
The Bamar took over in 1539 when King
BAGO (PEGU) Tabinshwehti annexed Bago to his Taungoo
pEx" kingdom. The city was frequently mentioned
%052 / pop 48,000 by early European visitors who knew it as
The logical first stop after leaving Yangon, Pegu as an important seaport. In 1740 the
Bago feels like an amusement park of fas- Mon, after a period of submission to Taun-
cinating Buddhist religious sites. Its very goo, re-established Bago as their capital, but
easy to do a day trip to Bago from Yangon, in 1757 King Alaungpaya sacked and ut-
but shuttling from one site to the other terly destroyed the city. King Bodawpaya,
makes it difficult to do any of them any who ruled from 1782 to 1819, rebuilt it to
justice. Its best to take your time and spend some extent, but when the river changed
the night, although theres a lack of quality its course the city was cut off from the sea
accommodation here. An early start to visit and lost its importance as a seaport. It never
the sites is probably the best idea, as Bago again reached its previous grandeur.
can get very hot around noon.
Bago is only about 80km from Yangon, Sights & Activities
yet is just far enough off the beaten track Several of the major sites have ticket
to avoid many tourists. The town is like counters where foreigners are asked to pay
a clogged artery because the highway that a US$10 admission fee. One ticket is good
passes through; buses slow to disgorge their for entrance to the Shwethalyaung Buddha,
passengers, and motorcycle and trishaw Shwemawdaw Paya, Kanbawzathadi Palace
touts competing for your attention. & Museum, Mahazedi Paya and Kyaik Pun
There is a very basic email service, Sit- Paya. All other sites are free or staff re-
thugyi Email Centre, east of the river. quest visitors to make a nominal donation.
We are not recommending this, but several
History travellers report not being asked to pay ad-
Bago was reputedly founded in AD 573 by mission when visiting certain sites in the
two Mon princes from Thaton, who saw a late afternoon. Most sites have a separate
female swan standing on the back of a male nominal camera and video fee. They are
swan on an island in a huge lake. Taking open from early in the morning to late in
this to be an auspicious omen, they founded the afternoon.
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F YA N G O N B a g o 141
0 600 m
BAGO 0 0.4 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION Mahagi Paya..............................13 A4 Shwe See Seim Motel................ 28 A4

Sitthugyi Email Centre..................1 C3 Mahazedi Paya..........................14 A3 Silver Snow Guest House...........29 C3
Market.......................................15 B3
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mon Weavers............................16 A3 EATING
Bogyoke Aung San Mosque......................................17 B3 35 Restaurant.............................30 B3
Equestrian Statue....................2 C2 Shwegugale Paya.......................18 A3 Hadaya Caf..............................31 B3
Church.........................................3 B3 Shwemawdaw Paya...................19 D2 Kyaw Swar...............................(see 30)
Clock Tower................................4 C3 Shwethalyaung Buddha.............20 A3 Panda Restaurant.....................(see 26)
Four Figures Paya.........................5 B3 Snake Monastery.......................21 D3 Shwe Le Restaurant....................32 B3
Gothaingotan Paya......................6 A4 Three Lions Cheroot Factory......22 B3 Triple Diamond Restaurant......(see 30)
Hintha Gon Paya.........................7 D2 Woodcarving Workshops...........23 A3
Kanbawzathadi Palace & SHOPPING
Museum..................................8 D3 SLEEPING Colours of Myanmar Art Centre..33 B4
Kha Khat Wain Kyaung................9 C2 Bago Star Hotel..........................24 B4
Kyaik Pun Paya..........................10 A4 Emperor Hotel............................25 B3 TRANSPORT
Kyinigan Kyaung........................11 A3 Myananda Guest House.............26 B3 Bus Station.................................34 B4
2 Maha Kalyani Sima.....................12 B3 San Francisco Motel...................27 B3 Pick-ups to Kyaiktiyo................(see 31)
To Kyaiktiyo (120km);
Mawlamyine (220km);
Mandalay (382km)
19
7
9 2
1
Footbridge 4
Rd To Seinthalyaung
lay Buddha (2.5km)
32 da
15 an
16 M
o n- 29 Leikpya
n g
11 Train Ya Reservoir
14 Station 25 8
3 30
20 22 26 3
23 5
Ba
31 21
go
27
Ri
17
ve
18
r
12
13
Ba Yint Noung St
-Bago Rd
28 34
4
Yangon
10
To Hanthawady Golf &
24 Country Club (2.5km);
33 Yangon (80.5km)
Bago is upping the ante in the race for of you. The golden slab you see is only the
bigger and longer Buddhas. A 60m to 70m torso. Measuring 55m long and 16m high,
one is in the works scheduled to be com- the Shwethalyaung is a good 9m longer
pleted sometime in 2006. Whether complete than the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho in
or still eerily surrounded by scaffolding, you Bangkok, but still 19m short of the Buddha
can find it in a clearing next to the Myetha- in Dawei (see p163). Youll find the Shwe-
layaung (Emerald Reclining) Buddha. thalyaung to the west of the YangonBago
Mr Han, a knowledgeable guide who road, only a little more than 1km to the
speaks excellent English, can be found at Yangon side of the train station. A sign on
the Myananda Guest House (see p144) or the platform in front of the image gives the
contacted at [email protected]. measurements of each body part; the little
finger alone extends 3.05m.
SHWETHALYAUNG BUDDHA The Shwethalyaung is reputed to be one
ers;elY;='".ur;" of the most lifelike of all reclining Bud-
This reclining Buddha is so big that from dhas. The Burmese say the image represents
looking up from the bottom steps its im- Buddha in a relaxing mode instead of
possible to determine exactly whats ahead parinibbana (death) since the eyes are
142 N O R T H O F YA N G O N B a g o www.lonelyplanet.com
wide open and the feet lie slightly splayed over the hti (umbrella-like pinnacle) and a
rather than parallel. new one was raised.
The sturdy iron shed that houses the King Bodawpaya, in the reconstruction
image may look rough and ready, but its of Bago after the ravages of Alaungpaya,
spacious and airy and gives you a far better rebuilt the stupa to 91m in 1796, but from
view than offered by the cramped cells that that point it has had a rather chequered
house most reclining Buddhas. The walk- career. A new hti was added in 1882, but a
way up to the platform is crowded with major earthquake in 1912 brought it down.
souvenir and handicraft stalls. The stupa was repaired, but in 1917 another
Originally built of brick and stucco in major quake again brought the hti down
994 by the Mon King Migadepa II, the and caused serious damage. Again it was
Shwethalyaung was allowed to deteriorate repaired, but in 1930 the biggest quake of
and was then restored several times before them all completely levelled the stupa and
the destruction of Bago in 1757. The town for the next 20 years only the huge earth
was so completely ravaged that the huge mound of the base remained.
Buddha was totally lost and overgrown by Reconstruction of the Shwemawdaw Paya
jungle. It was not found until the British commenced in 1952 and was completed in
era of the 1880s when an Indian contractor, 1954, when it reached its present height.
digging in a large earth mound for fill to The glittering golden top of the stupa
be used in the construction of the railway reaches 14m higher than the Shwedagon in
line, rediscovered the image. Restoration Yangon. At the northeastern corner of the
began in 1881 and the present iron and stupa, a huge section of the hti toppled by
steel tazaung (shrine building), a product the 1917 earthquake has been mounted into
of a Calcutta engineering company, was the structure of the stupa. It is a sobering
completed in 1903. The 1930s saw another reminder of the power of such geological
flurry of renovation activity, as a mosaic disturbances.
was added to the great pillow on which the Like the Shwedagon in Yangon, the stupa
Buddhas head rests, and Italian marble was is reached by a covered walkway lined with
laid along the platform. stalls some with interesting collections
Near the huge head of the image stands of antique bits and pieces. Along the sides
a statue of Lokanat (Lokanatha or Avalokites- of the walkway a collection of rather faded
vara), a Mahayana Buddhist deity borrowed and dusty paintings illustrates the terrible
by Burmese Buddhism. Behind the reclin- effects of the 1930 earthquake and shows
ing Buddha image is a set of huge painted the subsequent rebuilding of this mighty
reliefs depicting the legend of the found- stupa.
ing of the image. The price of admission
is worth it. KANBAWZATHADI PALACE & MUSEUM
A Japanese war cemetery, Kyinigan Kyaung, kem;js;dI nn'"et;'NH='ptiuk'
can be seen on the grounds of a monastery Recently, the original site of Hanthawady,
just north of Shwethalyaung. which surrounded a former Mon palace,
was excavated just south of the huge Shwe-
SHWEMAWDAW PAYA mawdaw Paya. Walled in the Mon style, the
erem;e/;.ur;" square city measured 1.8km along each side
Shwemawdaw Paya stands northeast of the and had 20 gates. The palace compound
train station. You cant miss the stupa, as in the centre, known as Kanbawzathadi,
its height of 114m dominates the town. The housed King Bayinnaung from 1553 (or
Shwemawdaw is said to be over 1000 years 1566 according to some sources) to 1599
old and was originally built by the Mon to and covered 82 hectares. About 26 hectares
a height of 23m to enshrine two hairs of of this area have been excavated. Bayin-
the Buddha. In 825 it was raised to 25m naung, the brother-in-law of a Taungoo
and then to 27m in 840. In 982 a sacred king, moved to Bago after conquering an
tooth was added to the collection; in 1385 older Mon principality called Oktha-myo,
another tooth was added and the stupa was which is east of the Hanthawady site.
rebuilt to a towering 84m. In 1492, the year Only the palaces brick foundations are
Columbus sailed the Atlantic, a wind blew visible today. Everything else is being built
anew, as at the Mandalay Palace, includ- MAHA KALYANI SIMA

ing the kings apartment and audience hall. (MAHA KALYANI THEIN)
Among other copied marvels, the original mh;klY;,Isim'
audience hall featured a seven-level roof, This Sacred Hall of Ordination was origi-
two levels higher than Mandalay Palace, nally constructed in 1476 by Dhammazedi,
and was topped with solid gold tiles. The the famous alchemist king and son of Queen
government is keen to make the site into Shinsawpu. It stands beside the road en
a showpiece of sorts, as King Bayinnaung route from the train station to the Shwethal-
ruled during an era when Burmese do- yaung. It was the first of 397 similar sima
mains reached their furthest in Southeast (ordination halls) he built around the coun-
Asia. The nearby Mon site of Oktha-myo, try, copying plans brought back from Sri
meanwhile, is all but ignored. Lanka. Philip De Brito, the renegade Por-
The small, well-stocked, octagon-shaped tuguese adventurer, burnt it down in 1599
museum displays Mon, Siamese and Bagan- during his period of plunder, and during
style Buddhas; clay tobacco pipes; glazed the sacking of Bago in 1757 it was destroyed
tiles and pots; bronze weights and scales; once again.
pieces of the original teak stockade; and Subsequently, it suffered from fires or
weaponry. quakes on a number of occasions before
being levelled by the disastrous 1930 quake.
HINTHA GON PAYA As with the Shwemawdaw, reconstruction
hs;kun'".ur;" was completed in 1954. Next to the hall are
Located behind the Shwemawdaw, this 10 large tablets with inscriptions in Pali and
shrine (admission free) has good views over Bago Mon. The hall itself features rows of tented
from the roofed platform on the hilltop. arches around the outside, with an impres-
According to legend, this was the one point sive separate cloister and marble floors in-
rising from the sea when the mythological side. Niches along the inside upper walls
bird (the hintha or hamsa) landed here. A contain 28 standing Buddha images.
statue of the bird, looking rather like the Across the road from the Maha Kalyani
figures on opium weights, tops the hill. The Sima, by the corner, is a curious monument,
stupa was built by U Khanti, the hermit the Four Figures Paya, with four Buddha fig-
monk who was also the architect of Man- ures standing back to back, in somewhat
dalay Hill. You can walk to it by taking similar fashion to the four seated Buddhas
the steps down the other side of the Shwe- at the Kyaik Pun on the outskirts of town.
mawdaw from the main entrance. An adjacent open hallway has a small reclin-
ing Buddha image, thronged by followers,
KYAIK PUN PAYA and some macabre paintings of wrongdoers
kYik'pn'.ur;" being tortured in the afterlife.
Theres something uncannily impressive
about these four seated Buddhas with regal MAHAZEDI PAYA
gazes that seem to see all, about 1.5km out mh;ectI.ur;"
of Bago just off the Yangon road. Built in Continuing beyond Shwethalyaung Paya
1476 by King Dhammazedi, it consists brings you to the Mahazedi (Great Stupa)
of four 30m-high sitting Buddhas placed Paya. Originally constructed in 1560 by
back-to-back around a huge, square pillar. King Bayinnaung, it was destroyed during
According to legend, four Mon sisters were the 1757 sacking of Bago. An attempt to
connected with the construction of the Bud- rebuild it in 1860 was unsuccessful and the
dhas; it was said that if any of them should great earthquake of 1930 comprehensively
marry, one of the Buddhas would collapse. levelled it, after which it remained a ruin.
One of the four Buddhas disintegrated in This current reconstruction was only com-
the 1930 earthquake, leaving only a brick pleted in 1982. Stairways lead up the out-
outline. It has since been fully restored. side of the stupa, and from the top there are
En route to the Kyaik Pun Paya, you can fine views over the surrounding area. Note
detour to the picturesque Gaung-Say-Kyan the model stupa by the entrance.
Paya, reached by crossing a wooden bridge The Mahazedi originally had a Buddha
over a small lake. tooth, at one time thought to be the actual
Buddha tooth of Kandy, Sri Lanka. After road to Shwethalyaung, off the main avenue
Bago was conquered in 1539, the tooth was through town; the proprietors dont mind
later moved to Taungoo and then to Saga- receiving visitors. Further west, towards
ing near Mandalay. Together with a begging Mahazedi Paya, you can visit a woodcarving
bowl supposed to have been used by the workshop.
Buddha, it remains in the Kaunghmudaw
Paya (p254), near Sagaing, to this day. Festivals & Events
Women are not allowed to climb to the On the full moon of the Burmese lunar
top of the stupa. month of Tagu (March/April) the Shwemaw-
daw Paya festival attracts huge crowds of
SHWEGUGALE PAYA worshippers and merrymakers.
ergUkel".ur;"
A little beyond the Mahazedi, this zedi has a Sleeping

dark gu (tunnel) around the circumference The quality of accommodation reflects the
of the cylindrical superstructure. The monu- fact that many travellers visit Bago only for
ment dates to 1494 and the reign of King the day. Most options are on the busy main
Byinnya Yan. Inside are 64 seated Buddha road between the railway line and the river
figures. From here you can take a short cut near the place where buses to and from
back to the corner in the road, just before Yangon stop, so rooms towards the back of
the Shwethalyaung. these hotels are quieter. Electricity is gener-
ally available only from the evening to early
OTHER ATTRACTIONS morning. Cheaper rooms only have fans.
North of the main town centre, near the Bago Star Hotel (%23766; 11-13 Kyaikpon Pagoda
eastern bank of the river, is one of the Rd; s/d US$24/30; as) The Star, the nicest
three largest monasteries in the country, and most expensive hotel in Bago, is located
Kha Khat Wain Kyaung. Watching the long line just off the highway on the same road as the
of monks and novices file out of the mon- Kyaik Pun Paya. Almost all the hotel is built
astery in the early morning for their daily from Myanmar wood. Accommodation is
round of alms is quite a sight. Busloads of in wooden bungalows that have hot-water
tourists visit the monks at lunchtime at showers. Generators keep the air-con hum-
10.30am. Youre free to wander around the ming. The pool, while not especially smart,
eating hall but we recommend that you be does the job in the searing heat. A nice,
cognisant of the kind of atmosphere created large restaurant is attached. Discounts are
by groups of foreigners snapping photos of available.
the monks like caged animals in a zoo while Myananda Guest House (%22275; 10 Main Rd; r
they eat their meal in silence. US$4-10; a) This is the best budget choice;
A short distance further south from the its small and friendly and on the main road
Kanbawzathadi Palace & Museum is the a few doors towards the river from the Ha-
Snake Monastery, where youll find a former daya Caf (see opposite). Economy rooms
head of a monastery in Hsipaw who has have fan, shared bathroom and toilet. One
since been reincarnated in the form of a triple room has air-con, fridge, TV and at-
115-year-old boa constrictor. Apparently tached cold-water bathroom. Plans were in
this snake told its owner up north the exact the works to add a few more rooms and
address where he needed to go in Bago in a breakfast area on the sun-drenched top
order to complete the construction of a floors. English-speaking Mr Han, a know-
stupa begun in a previous life. People from ledgeable guide, can be found here.
all over come to pay homage to the snake on Emperor Hotel (%23024; Main Rd; r US$3-7; a)
weekends and during Buddhist Lent. Every The Emperor looks modern and nice from
10 days it eats 5kg of chickens. Theres a the outside, decked out in reflective glass
zedi nearby on a small hilltop thats great and potted plants, but this six-storey hotel
for watching sunsets. is a different story inside. Standard rooms,
Many Bago women work in local che- some with Asian-style toilet and bath, tend
root factories there are around 15 large to be dank and with peeling paint jobs.
ones, and many smaller ones. The Three Touts from here are generally more aggres-
Lions cheroot factory is a little north of the sive than others in town.
San Francisco Motel (% 22265; Main Rd; s/d which sells paintings by local artists at in-
US$5/8; a) Further southwest near the rail- expensive prices.
way crossing, this motel has single and dou-
ble rooms both with shared or private toilet. Getting There & Away
Double rooms in the new wing (west) are You can get to Bago by either rail or road; in
cleaner and brighter looking. either case the trip takes about 2 hours. By
Silver Snow Guest House (s US$5-15, d US$10-20) road, the route to Bago follows the Manda-
This guesthouse is across the Bago River, lay road to Taukkyan, about 30km from the
near the reservoir and clock tower. It has capital, where the Pyay road branches off.
clean economy rooms, as well as rooms with From here to Bago the country is much more
private bathroom. There is no air-con, but all open and the traffic somewhat lighter.
rooms have a fan and a mosquito net upon
request. BUS
Shwe See Seim Motel (%22118; 354 Ba Yint Noung Wait outside the Myananda Guest House
St; s/d US$24/30; as) The Shwe See Seim is for buses passing through Bago.
a nine-room place near the bus station that
is slightly fancier than all but the Bago Star. Southeastern Myanmar
Bungalow units and regular rooms cost the Pick-ups to Kyaiktiyo depart from in front
same. There is a small and fairly dirty pool. of Hadaya Caf (K500, five hours). Buses
Travellers keen to avoid government- to Kyaiktiyo leave throughout the day from
owned hotels should bypass the Shwewatun near the Emperor Hotel, and cost around
Hotel, out towards the Shwemawdaw Paya. K800 to K1000 one way. Buy a ticket on
the bus rather than from the ticket booth
Eating next to the Emperor Hotel, which charges
Panda Restaurant (dishes K800; a) Just west of an inflated K1500 or so.
the river, the Panda offers a good, medium- Several buses pass through Bago from
priced, standard Chinese menu. 8am to 9am on their way to Hpa-an (K2500,
Shwe Le Restaurant (chicken dishes K1100) This five hours).
is a clean and quiet gem half a block north Until the bridge over the river was re-
of the main road, just west of the river. The cently completed, to reach Mawlamyine by
menu features Shan, Indian and Malaysian bus you had to go through Hpa-an or trans-
curries. fer to the ferry at Mottama. At the time of
35 Restaurant (dishes K1000; a) A friendly but research, the bridge wasnt open for use;
shabby place a few doors west of the Em- however, in the future the schedule will
peror Hotel, this is a popular eatery and likely be similar to that for Mottama. A few
not a hotel. The menu is a combination of buses pass through Bago for Mottama at
Bamar, Chinese, Indian and European; the 8am and then at 9pm (K3000, nine hours).
food is cheap and good, and the menu in-
cludes goat fighting balls (goat testicles), Taungoo & Inle Lake
prepared in a number of ways. Several buses pass through Bago from 5pm
Opposite the Emperor Hotel, the Hadaya to 6.30pm on their way to Kalaw (K6000,
Caf is a popular teashop with a nice selec- 12 hours).
tion of pastries, and good-quality tea and Air-con buses from Bago to Nyaungshwe
coffee. (K2000) leave at around 1.30pm from near
Two more restaurants serving good Ba- the Myananda Guest House and Emperor
mar and Chinese are the Triple Diamond Hotel. The trip takes about 16 hours un-
Restaurant and Kyaw Swar. fortunately, this means arriving in Inle Lake
at around 4.30am. Its worth noting that this
Shopping bus trip can get quite chilly, and some warm
Northwest of the Kyinigan Kyaung, a set- clothing or a blanket is recommended.
tlement of Mon weavers uses handlooms For Taungoo, make reservations on any
to produce cotton longyi (sarong-style gar- of the northbound buses, including those
ments) and other textiles. heading to Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake), Kalaw
Next door to the Bago Star Hotel is the and Mandalay. You will have to pay the full
Colours of Myanmar Art Centre (h8am-5.30pm), fare of K5500 (4 hours).
Mandalay If you hire a taxi in Bago, be sure that

Most of the private bus companies run- your driver agrees to drop you in Yangon
ning air-conditioned express buses beat your hotel.
tween Yangon and Mandalay stop in Bago. A guide and driver to Mt Kyaikto (for the
While they usually wont sell tickets for the Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) stupa; p149) can
short distance between Yangon and Bago, be hired through any of the central Bago
you can book tickets from Bago onward to hotels for around US$25 return. The same
Mandalay for the full YangonMandalay tour booked in Yangon costs US$80.
fare (around K5000). The Mandalay buses
usually arrive in Bago by 7pm; inquire at TRAIN
the Bago bus station or the travel desk in It is possible to visit Bago by breaking the
the lobby of the Emperor Hotel. Yangon to Mandalay train journey here.
During the high season (November to Feb-
Yangon ruary), it is wiser to do this coming down
Buses from Yangon (K500 to K1000) op- from Mandalay rather than going up from
erate approximately hourly from 5am or Yangon, because of the difficulties of getting
6am and depart from the Aung Mingalar a seat from Bago to Mandalay; from Bago to
(Highway) bus terminal (p86) north of the Yangon you could easily stand, or wait for
airport. GEC Bus Company and Taung Hta another train or change to the bus.
Ban Company both make the two-hour trip Trains from Yangon come through Bago
in relative comfort. Pick-ups and smaller for Mandalay at 6.50pm and 9pm (ordinary/
buses (K300, front seat K500) depart from 1st class US$11/29, 14 hours). Its possible
the Tha-khin Mya Pan-gyan Gate termi- to take either of these trains to Taungoo
nal on Strand Rd near the Western Park (ordinary/1st class US$4/8, four hours).
Restaurant in Yangon, but they can often From Yangon, there are about six trains
take as long as four hours as they stop and a day from around 6am to 8pm (ordinary/
start so often. Avoid travelling on Sunday, 1st class in express train US$2/5). Trains
however, when Bago is a very popular ex- leave Bago for Yangon (ordinary/1st class
cursion from Yangon and the buses get very US$2/5, two hours) at 5am and 8am.
crowded. Southbound trains come through Bago
on their way to Kyaiktiyo (ordinary/1st
TAXI class US$3/6, four hours) and Mottama (the
A more expensive but more convenient al- stop for Mawlamyine) at 6am and 8.45am
ternative is to hire a taxi from Yangon. A (ordinary/1st class US$6/14, eight hours).
taxi between Yangon and Bago should cost These are not express trains and, as usual,
about US$15 to US$20 each way, with a bit the buses are faster.
of bargaining and has the additional ad-
vantage of giving you transport from place Getting Around
to place once you get to Bago. One-way Trishaw is the main form of local transport
taxis back from Bago to Yangon can be had in Bago. A one-way trip in the central area
for as low as K8000. To hire a taxi in Bago, should cost no more than K300. If youre
enquire at any Bago hotel. going further afield say from Shwethal-
Some drivers may feel that getting you to yaung Buddha, at one end of town, to Shwe-
Bago and back, and to the two big attrac- mawdaw Paya, at the other you might as
tions the Shwemawdaw and the Shwe- well hire a trishaw for the day (about K2500
thalyaung is quite enough for one day. to K3000). Horse carts are another option
Dont accept excuses that other sites are (K4000 to K5000 for a day). Its also possible
too far off the road, are down tracks only to rent a motorcycle for the day (K7000), a
fit for bullock carts or are simply closed. much more liberating and convenient way
Choose a driver with reasonable English- of travelling between all of Bagos far-flung
language skills in Yangon. sites. Ask at your guesthouse.
www.lonelyplanet.com 147
147
Southeastern
Myanmar
Apart from the world-famous Golden Rock, southeastern Myanmar a long, narrow isthmus
bordering the Andaman Sea that resembles the string of a kite is virtually unknown, at
least in part because of continued tension between government troops and armed opposi-
tion groups in some areas. Both sides have laid antipersonnel mines, often near villages,
along the lengthy and mountainous porous border with Thailand.
However, the northern part of this region including the pilgrimage site of Kyaiktiyo (Golden
Rock), the countryside around leafy, decrepit Mawlamyine and the village of Hpa-an make
for an interesting natural loop, unhindered by the restrictions further south. The boat trip
between Mawlamyine and Hpa-an is a real treat. The southern no-go zones, combined with
the usual poor transport infrastructure mean that foreign visitors rarely journey down to
the border town of Kawthoung, the southernmost point in Myanmar.
S O U T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
In Kawthoung, though, there are a few long stretches of white-sand beaches and hun-
dreds of unexplored islands of the Mergui Archipelago that rival those in southern Thailand
in terms of sheer beauty. In fact, most of the handful of travel companies permitted by the
government to navigate the watery maze of the archipelago is based in Thailand, though
the Myanmar government has begun to eye the region with eagerness for its tourism po-
tential. After all Dawei, another southern city that foreigners are allowed in, is only a few
hours drive from Bangkok.
HIGHLIGHTS
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock)
The views from the gravity-defying marvel Thanlwin River

of Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) (p149) are Mawlamyine
enough to inspire a religious conversion
A vast archipelago where few foreigners
have gone before lies beyond
Kawthoung (p167) try your luck island
hopping Maungmagan
Floating up the Thanlwin River on the
MawlamyineHpa-an ferry (p157)
promises some rays and picturesque
scenery
The Win Sein Taw Ya (p158), one of the
worlds largest Buddhas, is relaxing in the
countryside outside of Mawlamyine
Maungmagan (p163) is a long, almost
deserted beach near Dawei Kawthoung
148 M O N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com
CLIMATE
Mon State in the north of the region has
a longer rainy season (June to November)
MON STATE
than other parts of the country; the cool mn'p'ny'
season is December and January. The homeland of the Mon ethnic group
Similar to southern Thailand, in Tanin- wraps around the east coast of the Gulf of
tharyi Division to the south, it rains for Mottama (Martaban) from the mouth of the
about nine to 10 months a year, with a dry Sittoung (Sittang) River to the northern end
period only occurring during December to of Tanintharyi Yoma (Tenasserim Range).
April. Once native to a broad region stretching
from southern Myanmar to Cambodia, the
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Mon have been absorbed sometimes will-
Foreigners are generally restricted from ingly, sometimes unwillingly by the more
travelling by road south of Thanbyuzayat. powerful Bamar and Thai cultures in Myan-
The government attributes road attacks in mar and Thailand over the last 1000 years or
this area to Mon or Kayin (Karen) insur- so. The absorption has been so effective that
gents, but the attacks dont discriminate their own history and culture have received
between government and private vehicles, little attention by scholars, even though
and the motive always seems to be rob- vestiges of the Mon culture and language
bery. Regardless of claims on either side, clearly survive in both countries.
its very unclear whether these assaults Though no-one knows for sure, the Mon
are politically motivated or whether the may be descended from a group of Indian
robbers are simple bandits. For political immigrants from Kalinga, an ancient king-
reasons, though, the government tends to dom overlapping the boundaries of the
lump both kinds of attacks together as in- modern Indian states of Orissa and Andhra
surgent activity. Pradesh. They are responsible for much of
the early maintenance and transmission of
GETTING THERE & AWAY Theravada Buddhism in mainland South-
From a foreign travellers perspective there east Asia even though Sri Lankan monks
are really two parts to southeastern My- may have initially introduced the Tripi-
anmar: the first is the northern part that taka (the three baskets; the classic Bud-
includes Kyaiktiyo, Hpa-an, Mawlamyine dhist scriptures) and ordination lineage. In
and a few places a little further south. All of the case of Myanmar, the Bagan kingdom
these destinations are accessible by a com- forcefully captured these elements, while
bination of boat, bus, car and train with in Thailand it was the peaceful interest of
no more than the usual number of hassles King Rama IV that led to the growth of
of travelling in Myanmar, which is to say Mon-styled Buddhism.
a lot. Since 1949 the eastern hills of the state
The second part to the region covering (as well as mountains further south in Ta-
Dawei, Myeik, Kawthoung and the archi- nintharyi Division) have been a refuge for
pelago of islands off the coast are a differ- the New Mon State Party (NMSP) and its
ent story. Each form of overland transport tactical arm, the Mon National Libera-
cannot be used by foreigners. Therefore, to tion Front (MNLF), whose objective has
reach any of these places from within My- been self-rule for Mon State. In addition to
anmar, at some point you will have to fly harassing the Myanmar government, the
and you will have to fly Myanma Airways Mon have occasionally fought the Kayin
(MA). Its possible to travel south from over control of the remote border cross-
Dawei to Kawthoung or north from Kaw- ings along the Thai border. With growing
thoung to Dawei by boat. At first glance. government influence along this section of
Kawthoung might seem like a convenient border and following a string of Kayin de-
entryway to the country from Thailand, but feats the situation has cooled. In 1995 the
again it requires a flight to reach Yangon. NMSP signed a ceasefire with the Myanmar
Boat and flight fares in the south add up government. Still, as late as December 2004
quickly, making it the most expensive part there were reports of continuing fighting,
of the country to travel in. instances of forced labour and harassment
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) 149
SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR of Mon villagers; the result being that villag-

0
0
80 km
50 miles
ers from the southern Ye area have migrated
across the border to Thailand as much in
search of work to support their families.
Sitto
KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)

ung River
kYik'qI"rui"
Th
Than n Riv
%035
au
Sittoung
ng
lwi
yi
Kyaiktiyo
The sublime balancing boulder stupa called
n
(Golden Rock)
Bilin
THAILAND Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock), is a major pilgrim-
Ri
er
To Bago;
ve
r
Yangon KAYIN
Theinseik
STATE age site for Burmese Buddhists and tour-
Thaton Hpa-an ists alike. A visit shouldnt be undertaken
8 Mt Zwegabin (722m) Mae Sot
Paung Zathabyin 85 lightly as a day trip, which in theory could
Myawadi
Moktama
Mawlamyine Kawkareik
involve a taxi, long-distance bus, truck,
Bilu Kyun
Kyaikmaraw human porters and your own foot power,
Mudon but its well worth the hassles as much
Kyaikkami
Setse Thanbyuzayat for the inspiring views from the top as for
Gulf of Mae Sariang
the gravity-defying boulder itself. The man-
Zam R
Moktama
(Martaban) made plaza around the Golden Rock is the
i iver
Kalagok
Kyun MON
typical Myanmar mix of religious iconogra-
STATE Payathonzu
Three phy and commercial development, monks
Ye
Pagodas Pass
Sangkhlaburi
and laypeople meditating in front of golden
Malwetaung Buddha statues while several metres away
rosary beads and toy wooden rifles are for
Dawe
sale. All but the fittest will probably have to

i
Kanbauk
Heinze 8 take a breather at one of the drink stands
Kyun
clinging to the cliffsides on the road from
River
Maungmagan
Kyun
Maungmagan
the truck stop to the stupa area.
Dawei
The small stupa, just 7.3m high, sits atop
Launglon
Kyun
Thayetchaung the Golden Rock, a massive, gold-leafed
Zalut TANINTHARYI boulder delicately balanced on the edge of
Dawei
DIVISION
a cliff at the top of Mt Kyaikto. Like Shwe-
Point
dagon Paya in Yangon or Mahamuni Paya in
ANDAMAN
Tanintha
SEA Mali
Palauk Mandalay, the Kyaiktiyo stupa is one of the
Kyun
Palaw
most sacred Buddhist sites in Myanmar.
ryi
Taninthayi Legend states that the boulder maintains

Kyun Kadan
Kyun its precarious balance due to a precisely
placed Buddha hair in the stupa. Appar-
Rive
Thayawthahan Myeik
Kyun ently King Tissa received the Buddha hair
r
in the 11th century from a hermit who had

Myeik
Doun
Kyun Tanintharyi
secreted the hair in his own topknot. The
Thabawleik
hermit instructed the king to search for a
Archip
Pyinzabu
Kyun boulder whose shape resembled the her-
Letsutaw Kyun
Ketthayin Lenya mits head, and then enshrine the hair in
Kyun
a stupa on top. The king, who inherited
elago
Bokpyin
Owen
supernatural powers as a result of his birth
Kyan to a zawgyi (an accomplished alchemist)
Lampi
father and naga (dragon serpent) princess,
Kyun found the rock at the bottom of the sea.
Upon its miraculous arrival on the moun-
River
Maliwun
tain top, the boat used to transport the
Gulf
rock then turned to stone. This stone can
yan
of
Pag
Kawthoung
Thahtay Kyun
Thailand be seen approximately 300m from the main
Ranong
boulder its known as the Kyaukthanban
(Stone Boat Stupa).
150 M O N S TAT E K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) www.lonelyplanet.com
The atmosphere surrounding Kyaiktiyo necting trails, however, sometimes lead to

during the height of the pilgrimage season unexpected views of the valleys below.
(from November to March) is charged with Further behind the pagoda plaza area,
magic and devotion, especially when the down a stairway, there is a Potemkin village
glinting boulder is bathed in the purple, of restaurants, souvenir shops and guest-
sometimes misty, light of dawn. Pilgrims houses for Burmese.
chant, light candles and meditate all through
the night. Men are permitted to walk along a Orientation & Information
short causeway and over a bridge spanning Too many towns with similar-sounding
a chasm to the boulder and affix gold-leaf names make orientation confusing. Kyaik-
squares on the rocks surface. tiyo is the least important. This is the town
A new terrace allows devotees to view along the highway between Bago and points
the boulder from below. There are several further south. There is no reason to get out
other stupas and shrines scattered on the here or to stay here. Buses turn off the high-
ridge at the top of Mt Kyaikto, though none way and end their journeys in Kinpun at the
is as impressive as Kyaiktiyo. The intercon- base of the mountain, about 9km from the
THE REAL DEAL ON THE ROCK

A trip to the Golden Rock requires planning, enormous patience, endurance and strong legs.
There is a US$6 entrance fee, payable at the tourist office (h6am-6pm) at Yatetaung or at the
checkpoint near the top, before the Kyaiktiyo Hotel. By the way, your ticket is valid for 30 days,
so you may visit again without paying the government another US$6.
In theory it is possible to reach the rock from Yangon, or Bago or elsewhere without ever
setting one foot in front of the other: bus to truck to sedan chair and repeat in the other direc-
tion. But isnt the whole point of a pilgrimage, for aesthetic, intellectual or religious reasons, at
least in part about the effort to get there? Were not advocating masochism, only that at some
point youre likely to want to walk up or down part of the way and the walking parts are very
steep. Walking sticks are for sale but whether unaided or armed, its an aerobic workout. Take
breaks and drink lots of fluids.
These warnings aside, there are two ways to the rock from the base camp in Kinpun. The first
is to hike all the way there. This is approximately 11km and takes between four to six hours. The
trail begins past the bazaar of souvenir shops in Kinpun and there are numerous rest camps
along the way where weary pilgrims can snack and rehydrate. Not many people, even the true
devotees, choose to hike all the way up and back. The way down takes from three to four hours
and should not be attempted in the dark even with a torch; its too easy to stumble.
The second way to the rock, which most people do both ways, is to ride one of the large trucks
(lain-ka) up the winding road to the Yatetaung Bus Terminal, the end point for all vehicle traffic.
No cars, taxis, pick-ups, or buses are allowed. The trucks beds are lined with wooden slats for
benches (K500) and seat 35 or so people. Five or so are allowed in the much more comfortable
front seats (per person K1000) but these are usually reserved in advance by groups or families.
As an individual traveller its difficult to secure a front seat, while a group of five has a better
chance. Regardless, you could be in for a wait of an hour or more as trucks dont leave until
they are completely packed to the brim. Some tour groups reserve entire trucks for K16,000.
The ride to the top is 45 minutes or so and usually includes a stop around halfway up to allow
trucks coming from the opposite direction to pass. The first truck in the morning is at 6am and
the last truck down is around 7pm, though you should try to be at the Yatetaung Bus Terminal
earlier to avoid the risk of being stranded for the night.
From the terminal, nothing more than a dirt lot surrounded by snack and souvenir shops, it
takes 45 minutes to an hour to hike up the remaining steep, paved switchback path. For those
with royal fantasies or simply the aged or injured might want to be carried the rest of the way
in a sedan chair (US$5 to US$7 one way), a canvas litter held aloft by four perspiring Burmese
men. Walking or reclining, you pass through an array of vendors along the way to the stupa
area at the top.
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E K y a i k t i y o ( G o l d e n R o c k ) 151
highway and Kyaiktiyo. Kinpun is where KYAIKTIYO (GOLDEN ROCK)

most of the accommodation for foreigners & AROUND 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
is besides a few hotels near the top of the
Kyauk Htat Gyi
mountain itself and the starting point for Phar Paya;
Naga Paya
Pagoda
trips up the mountain to Kyaiktiyo Paya Kyaiktiyo
(Golden Rock). Galay Zedi Aung Theikdi
Monastery
There is no Internet access anywhere in
the area at the moment.
Hiking Kyauk-si-yo
Pagoda
Several hikes originate from the Yatetaung Mok-so-taung Helipads
Bus Terminal, which means that unless you Mo-Baw Pagoda
Mt Kyaikto
Water Fall
choose to stay at the Golden Rock Hotel Koe-na-win
Pagoda (Upper) Kyaiktiyo Pagoda
Checkpoint
which provides information to nonguests Koe-na-win Monastery Mountain Top Inn
Koe-na-win Kyaiktiyo & Restaurant
you have to make your way here (see oppo- Weik-zar Pagoda (Lower) Hotel Mya Zedi
Mountain
site). Its around a 45-minute climb to the top (3681ft) Yatetaung
Bus Terminal & Golden Rock Hotel
of Ya-The Mountain, a 30-minute walk down to Sa-ma
Mountain
Truck Terminal
Yatetaung Camp
Mo-Baw waterfall and a 1-hour walk to the Pon-nya Yathe
Nagapat Camp
Mountain
Sa-ma-taung paya and kyaung (monastery). Atwin Mya Sein
Mountain Sa-khan
Galay Camp
Mountain Didok-myaung
Apyin Mya Monastery
Sleeping Sein Mountain Shan-eik
Mountain
Although the Golden Rock can be visited as Shwe Son Zin-gyan
a day trip from Bago and in theory Yangon, Taung Pagoda Mountain View Point
(4.625mi)
this isnt recommended; the advantage of
staying near the shrine is that you can catch Shew-son
Mountain
sunset and sunrise the most magical times (3646ft) Sai-ta-mao
Camp
for viewing the boulder shrine. Foreigners
View Point
arent permitted to stay in one of the many
zayat (rest shelters) for pilgrims at the top,
nor are they permitted to camp in wooded
areas on the mountain. Nat (Spirit) Well
In the town of Kyaiktiyo along the main Maha Myaing Pagoda
Ye Myaung Gyi Camp
road from Bago there are several guest- Kya-swe Camp
Taung Paing
Bo Bo Gyi
houses, none of them very appealing, and Hmyaw-daw-mu
there really is no reason to stay here rather Shwe Yin
Tha Camp
Dadu
Pagoda
Pagoda
than Kinpun.
MOUNTAIN
Golden Rock Hotel (in Yangon %01-502 479; grtt@ Ye Myaung
goldenrock.com.mm; s US$38-45, d US$45-60; meals US$4- Pann Myo
Galay Camp
12; a) Even though its still a 40-minute Truck

Thu Inn
Terminal
walk to the top, the Golden Rock Hotel, Golden
Sea Sar Guest House; Sea Star Restaurant
Kinpun Base Camp
just a few minutes up from the Yatetaung Sunrise
Hotel Kinpun
Creek
Bus Terminal, is in an exceptionally beau- To Bago (128km);
Yangon (208km) To Hpa-an;
tiful spot, surrounded by lush vegetation Kyaiktiyo Mawlamyine
and a sparkling mountain stream. Rooms
in the combo concrete and stone buildings
are spotless and cosy. The restaurant has set the mountaintop. Some of the rooms in
menus and theres an attached balcony with this inn, just before the foreigners regis-
spectacular views. Massages for your weary tration office for the paya open out directly
pilgrim bones are available. to mountain vistas. Rooms themselves have
Mountain Top Inn & Restaurant (in Yangon %01- private bathrooms and are small and basic.
502 479; s/d US$38/45) The one advantage the Spa and massage services are offered.
Mountain Top has over the Golden Rock, Travellers keen to avoid government-
and it is potentially a big one, is location: owned hotels should stay well clear of the
152 M O N S TAT E T h a t o n www.lonelyplanet.com
Kyaiktiyo Hotel, along the ridge at the top Getting There & Away
of Mt Kyaikto. For individual travellers, Bago makes a bet-
ter starting point for road trips to Kyaiktiyo
KINPUN than Yangon, as hotel staff members there
Sea Sar Guest House (s US$3-10, d US$6-20; a) are adept at arranging inexpensive alterna-
Youll no doubt be approached by touts tives. A guide and driver to Kyaiktiyo can
from Sea Sar upon arrival, but they should be hired through any of the central Bago
be trusted; this guesthouse is the best value hotels for around US$25. The same tour
in town. Its prime asset is the spacious com- booked in Yangon costs US$80.
pound edged with large, shady trees. Small
bungalows with private bathrooms, some BUS & PICK-UP
concrete and some wooden, have private Big air-conditioned buses that go straight
porches. A few along one side are very nice from Yangon to Kinpun (K2500, 4 hours)
and large; the bathrooms themselves can leave from Yangons Aung Mingalar (High-
sleep four. The cheapest rooms are austere way) Bus Terminal every 30 minutes or so
cubicles. Staff here can provide advice on from 7am to 1pm; other air-conditioned
the rock. buses leave from Pansodan St in Yangon in
Pann Myo Thu Inn (s US$3-6, d US$6-12; a) A the evening for the same price. Buses from
close second behind the Sea Sar, the rooms Kyaiktiyo to Yangon leave regularly from
at this inn are tightly packed and the lack 7am to 1.30pm. Because the last bus of the
of elbow-room feels slightly claustropho- day returns to Yangon so early, its virtually
bic. With that said, the midpriced rooms impossible to see the Golden Rock in one
with large wood floors and furniture and day on public transport from the capital.
air-con are especially good value. The most There are large buses (K1700) and pick-
expensive rooms arent as nice, designed ups from Kyaiktiyo to Bago (K1000, three
more with the tastes of local visitors who hours).
prefer concrete and a more modern look, Small pick-ups leave from Kinpun to
while the cheapest rooms are tiny and por- Hpa-An and Mawlamyine (front/back seat
ous in terms of noise. K2500/1500, five hours) from 6am to 1pm.
Golden Sunrise Hotel (in Yangon%01-701 027; On the way to Mawlamyine theres not
[email protected]; s/d U$20/25; a) A few much shade on the road in parts, which
minutes walk outside the centre of Kin- means it gets extremely hot. The front seat
pun village in the direction of the highway, is well worth the extra kyat.
the Golden Sunrise is the most upmarket
choice in town. There are eight bamboo TRAIN
bungalows with private verandas, situated A direct train from Bago to Kyaiktiyo
around a garden. The rooms have hot water (US$7) leaves daily at 4.30am, supposedly
and TV. arriving three hours later, though many
travellers report the trip can take six hours
Eating or more. The train from Mottama (Mar-
Because Kinpun is the starting point for this taban) arrives in Kyaiktiyo around 5pm,
popular Myanmar site, there are a number sometimes later if the train is delayed.
of good Chinese and Bamar restaurants up
and down the towns main street including THATON
the following: squ
Sea Sar Restaurant (dishes K800) Long before the rise of Bagan, Thaton was
Mya Yeik Nyo (noodles with chicken K1000). an important centre for a Mon kingdom
that stretched from the Ayeyarwady River
In addition to the food stalls at the Kin- delta to similar river deltas in Thailand,
pun base camp and all along the footpaths, and possibly as far east as Cambodia. Early
there is a veritable food court of restaurants on, Thaton may have been known as Su-
at the summit past the shrines and plaza vannabhumi, the Golden Land legend
area, down the steps where there are also says Asoka, the great Indian Buddhist em-
loads of souvenir shops and guesthouses peror, sent a mission here in the 3rd cen-
for Burmese. tury BC. Later it was called Dvaravati when
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E M o t t a m a 153
it reached its dynastic peak between the 6th With a ridge of stupa-capped hills on
and 10th centuries AD. Shin Aran, a monk one side and the sea on the other, the
from Thaton, carried Theravada Buddhism stage is set for an attractive urban setting.
north to the Burmese kingdom of Bagan, Unfortunately, though, an unsightly row
and in 1057 Thaton was conquered by King of modern Chinese-style buildings along
Anawrahta of Bagan. the waterfront and a general air of decay
Today Thaton sits on the main road and though this may seem atmospheric to co-
rail line that stretches from Bago to Mot- lonial architecture buffs makes the city
tama. Little of ancient Thaton is visible, as seem neglected and forgotten. But its this
the modern town has been built over the old very melancholy, so evident in the ornate
sites. The town's core is a leafy place, lin- and decrepit mosques that captivate visi-
ing each side of the highway with colonial tors. One was George Orwell (author of
mansions and thatched-roof homes. A few Burmese Days), who was stationed here for
older stupas dot the hillsides surrounding a time in the 1920s during his service with
the town and a picturesque canal network the Indian Imperial Police.
irrigates rice paddies and fruit orchards. Mawlamyine (some maps may show it
as Mawlamyaing) served as the capital of
MOTTAMA (MARTABAN) British Burma from 1827 to 1852, during
mutm which time it developed as a major teak
The recent completion of a two-lane bridge port. A great deal of coastal shipping still
over the Thanlwin River connecting the goes on, although Pathein and Yangon have
nondescript town of Mottama with Maw- superseded it as Myanmars most important
lamyine makes the double-decker passenger ports. The city is composed roughly of 75%
ferries obsolete except for the most devoted Mon or some mixture of Mon, plus Kayin,
boat enthusiast. Despite the expected de- Bamar, Indian, Chinese and other ethnic
crease in ridership, ferries are still sched- groups. A look around the old Christian
uled to leave the Mottama landing every cemetery gives a hint of how cosmopolitan
half hour from 7.15am to 6.45pm. The for- Mawlamyine was during the 18th and 19th
eigner fare is US$1 and the trip takes 20 to centuries.
30 minutes, depending on the tides. If you
dont feel like waiting, theres a much faster Information
25-seat outboard across the river for K200, A police station is located over the road
or you can always charter a boat across the from the government jetties. The post office
river for about K3000 to K5000. is a couple of blocks further inland.
Less frequent vehicle ferries from Mot-
tama to Mawlamyine depart depending Sights & Activities
on the tides; the last boat leaves just be- MON CULTURAL MUSEUM
fore sunset and the crossing takes about 30 mn'yw'ekY"muptiuk'
minutes. This two-storey museum (cnr Baho Rd formerly
See p157 for details on bus and rail trans- Dalhousie St & Dawei Jetty Rd; admission US$2) at the
port to Mottama. northeastern corner is dedicated to the Mon
history of the region. Exhibits are displayed
MAWLAMYINE (MOULMEIN) downstairs, while upstairs are reading rooms
em;'lDmui=' and toilets.
%057 / pop 300,000 The museums modest collection includes
The impression one has of Mawlamyine stellae with Mon inscriptions, 100-year-old
from Mottama, on the other side of the Than- wooden sculptures depicting old age and
lwin River, is of a big, busy city. But wander sickness (used as dhamma-teaching devices
the streetlight-free streets after sunset and it in monasteries), ceramics, silver betel boxes,
seems quaint and startlingly undeveloped, royal funerary urns, Mon musical instru-
especially for the countrys third-largest city. ments and wooden Buddha altars.
Completed only in 2004, a 3km bridge over In front of the museum is a British can-
the Thanlwin River the longest in Myan- non dated 1826, plus a huge Burmese gong.
mar brings this leafy, tropical town, 45km Some labels are printed in English though
from the sea, closer to the north. most are in Burmese only.
154 M O N S TAT E M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
MAWLAMYINE 0 0.3 miles
A B C D
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Aung Theikdi Zedi....................... 1 C5
City Hall.......................................2 B6
1 Ebenezer Baptist Church...............3 B6
First Baptist Church......................4 B6
Gaungse Kyun Htyan Haw Chinese Temple.........5 A6
12 (Shampoo Island) Kaladan Mosque..........................6 A3
Kyaikthanlan Paya........................7 C5
Mahamuni Paya...........................8 C4
Moghul Shiah Mosque.................9 A3
Mon Cultural Museum...............10 B6
Bridge Mosque......................................11 B3
Sandawshin Paya........................12 B1
Seindon Mibaya Kyaung............13 C5
Soorti Sunni Jamai Mosque........14 A4
Vehicle Jetty Sports Stadium...........................15 B4
to Mottama
2 28 U Khanti Paya............................16 C5
U Zina Paya...............................17 C5
SLEEPING
Mawlamyine Attran Hotel...............................18 A3
Hotel Aurora Guest House.................. 19 A5
Breeze Rest House.....................20 A5
Ngwe Moe Hotel.......................21 A6
r
Rive
EATING
18 Kentucky Chicken King..............22 A4
11 Mya Than Lwin Restaurant........23 A6

nlwin
6 Ruby Restaurant........................24 A5
North
Tha
3 Bogy
oke SHOPPING
Rd Market.......................................25 B4
9
New Market...............................26 A3
Zeigyo (Central Market)............ 27 A4
26
TRANSPORT
Boats to Gaungse Kyun..............28 B2
35 Thaton Tar Par St Dawei Jetty................................29 A6
Government Jetty......................30 A5
Rd)
15
25 Government Jetty......................31 A6
in
Hpa-an Jetty..............................32 A4
Ma
27
Myanma Airways.......................33 B5
per
34 Pedestrian Jetty to Mottama......34 A4

(Up
Thaton Jetty.............................. 35 A4
14 Si Bin
4
gyi
Tha
r Ya
Ma
t St
22 8
d
t R
Prison
Hte
32
13
7
Rd
Kyaikthan
Strand Rd
24 1
16
5
)
Main Rd
20 17
19
South Bogyok
Police
(Upper
Station
30 To Hpa-an
33
Magyi
Post (64km)
e Rd (Lowe
Office
31
Htet Rd
2
r Main Rd)
Baho Rd
To Thanlwin
6 Hotel (2.5km); 5
Train Station (2.5km); 29
Kyaikmata (24km);
Win Sein Taw Ya 3 10
Dawei Jetty Rd To Bus Station (2.5km);
(Reclining Buddha; 24km); Airport (2.5km);
Setse (64km); 23
Mudon (29km);
Thanbyuzayat (64km); 21 4 Kyaikhami Pagoda (86km);
Ye (145km)
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E M a w l a m y i n e 155
RELIGIOUS MONUMENTS blinking electric halo; a second recliner in

In the citys east, a hilly northsouth ridge the same room has blinking lights all over
is topped with five separate monasteries and its body.
shrines. At the northern end is Mahamuni In the centre of town towards the wa-
Paya, the largest temple complex in Maw- terfront, on South Bogyoke Rd, are three
lamyine. Its built in the typical Mon style mosques built during the colonial era when
with covered brick walkways linking various many Indians arrived to work for the Brit-
square shrine buildings. The main image is ish. Since the Indian exodus of the 1970s
a replica of its namesake in Mandalay (see Muslim congregations have declined sub-
p234) without the thick gold leaf. Another stantially, but the survival of these grand
difference is that women may enter the main old buildings makes a walk here a fleeting
Buddha chamber here. In the outer cloister exercise in nostalgia.
several well-executed paintings depict local The most impressive building, Kaladan
scenes from the 1920s and 1930s. Mosque, is a green-and-turquoise structure
Farther south along the ridge stands Kyaik- designed by Sunni Muslims in the elabo-
thanlan Paya, the citys tallest and most visible rate wedding-cake style similar to that
stupa. It was probably here that Rudyard Ki- seen in Penang or Kuala Lumpur. Further
plings poetic Burma girl was a-settin.... in south, on the same side of the street, is
the opening lines of Mandalay: By the old the smaller Moghul Shiah Mosque, a Shiite
Moulmein Pagoda, lookin lazy at the sea place of worship painted blue with austere
(never mind that its actually the Thanlwin Moorish arches. A couple of blocks further,
River thats visible from the paya poetic south of the central market, the Sunni Soorti
licence). For a small donation you can take Sunni Jamai Mosque fills a similar space but
a lift to the main platform surrounding the presents a more brilliant turquoise-and-
40m stupa, which offers fine views over the white facade.
city and harbour. You can also see the plains Just up from Dawei jetty, on the eastern
to the east towards Kyaikmaraw and the side of Strand Rd, the small but colourful
coconut treeshrouded islands in the mouth Htyan Haw Chinese temple serves the local
of the Thanlwin River. Chinese community. Of historic interest
Below Kyaikthanlan is the 100-year-old is the sturdy brick First Baptist Church, also
Seindon Mibaya Kyaung, a monastery where known as the Judson Church, on the corner
King Mindon Mins queen, Seindon, sought of Htet Lan Magyi and Dawei Jetty Rd; this
refuge after Myanmars last monarch, King was Myanmars first Baptist church.
Thibaw Min, took power. On the next rise
south stands the isolated silver-and-gold- MARKETS
plated Aung Theikdi Zedi. Mawlamyines zeigyo (central market) is a
Further south, on the western side of the rambling area on the western side of South
ridge, a view looks out over the city and is Bogyoke Rd, just north of the main pedes-
a favoured spot for watching sunsets and trian jetty for Mottama. This market special-
catching evening sea breezes. Just beyond ises in dry goods, from inexpensive clothes
the viewpoint stands U Khanti Paya, built to to house wares. Much of the merchandise
commemorate the hermit of Mandalay Hill includes items that have fallen off the boat
fame; supposedly U Khanti spent some time on the way from Singapore to Yangon, such
on this hill as well. Its a rustic, airy sort of as untaxed cigarettes and liquor.
place centred around a large Buddha image. A block north on the same side of the
Various bells and gongs are suspended by street is the New Market, a large shed built as
ropes from the steel supports of the sanc- Peoples Market No 2 during Myanmars
tuarys ceiling. socialist era. Fresh fruits, vegetables and
U Zina Paya, on the southern spur of the meats are the attraction here.
ridge, was named after a former monk who A variety of street vendors set up shop
dreamt of finding gems at this spot, then along both sides of South Bogyoke Rd in
dug them up and used the proceeds to the area of these two markets. The entire
build a temple on the site. One of the shrine district is busiest in the early morning from
buildings contains a very curvy, sensual- 7am to 8am; by 9am business is consider-
looking reclining Buddha topped with a ably slower.
156 M O N S TAT E M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com
GAUNGSE KYUN (SHAMPOO ISLAND) are many: wide stairways, open verandas,
ex:='"ez"kYn'" high ceilings, tile floors. Unfortunately, the
This picturesque little isle off Mawlamyines atmospherics are at the expense of comfort
northwestern end is so named because, and cleanliness. Furniture is mismatched
during the Ava period, the yearly royal hair- and in need of repair, some rooms have
washing ceremony customarily used water private bathroom, others are shared and
taken from a spring on the island. resemble a high-school locker room.
You can hire a boat out to the island Ngwe Moe Hotel (%24703; Strand Rd; s/d US$27/36;
from in front of the Mawlamyine Hotel for a) The only place in Mawlamyine to look
K1000. Other than just walking around the and act like a standard hotel this isnt
nine acres and soaking up the ambience, you necessarily a good thing the three-storey
can visit Sandawshin Paya, a whitewash-and- Ngwe Moe on Strand Rd is frequented by
silver zedi (stupa) said to contain hair relics, groups, more locals than foreigners, and the
and a nearby Buddhist meditation centre. rooms have the standard amenities: air-con,
Among other islands in the river, there is the IDD phone, fridge and satellite TVs.
largest one Bilu Kyun (Ogre Island). Attran Hotel (%25764; [email protected];
s/d US$25/35; ai) The large suites at the At-
Sleeping tran, replete with wicker-furnished sitting
Most of the accommodation is only a short room and satellite TV, are the most com-
trishaw ride from the central market and fortable rooms in Mawlamyine. The hotel,
ferry landing. a large compound directly on the river with
lots of concrete, is a bunch of old, yellow

BUDGET bungalows in need of a paint job. Stand-
Breeze Rest House (Lay Hnyin Tha, %21450; 6 Strand ard rooms with private bathrooms are nice,
Rd; s US$4-8, d US$8-15; a) The rooms arent though not really good value. The hotel res-
much but the Breeze, an attractive, blue taurant, on a deck by the river and lit up at
colonial-style villa on Strand Rd is the best night, is a nice place to eat.
value in Mawlamyine. A 2nd-floor balcony Travellers keen to avoid government-
with a river view is itself worth the price of owned hotels should stay clear of the Maw-
admission. Yin Maung, the friendly owner, lamyine Hotel, in the northwestern corner
speaks English and is a wealth of informa- of the city.
tion about the area. The cheapest rooms
are nothing more than small windowless Eating
cubicles with shared bathroom. More ex- For a city of this size, the eating options are
pensive rooms that sleep up to three are scarce. The Attran Hotel and Ngwe Moe
quite spacious and have a large, modern Hotel have restaurants that serve lunch and
bathroom with air-con. dinner. Your best bet is to walk from the
Aurora Guest House (%22785; 277 Lower Main Rd; Breeze Rest House south along Strand Rd.
s US$4-10, d US$8-20) Not as friendly or suited to Mya Than Lwin Restaurant (Dawei jetty, Strand
foreign travellers, nevertheless the Aurora Rd; fish K2000) This restaurant, in what ap-
is the only other budget option. Around pears to be a former warehouse, is now a
the corner from the Breeze, the lobby to popular restaurant, hang-out and place for
this guesthouse is up a steep flight of stairs. a cool bottle of beer. Theres an extensive
The rooms are small and slightly musty be menu with soups, pork, chicken, fish, eel
sure to ask for one with a window and the and prawns. For the lobster roast, order a
carpet needs a wash. More expensive rooms day in advance.
have private bathroom and air-con; oth- Kentucky Chicken King (115 Strand Rd; chicken
ers only have a fan and shared bathroom. burgers K350) Like its more famous American
Breakfast is not included. namesake KFC, the little KCK, only a block
from the central market, specialises in juicy
MIDRANGE fried poultry (two pieces of fried chicken
Thanlwin Hotel (%21976; South Bogyoke Rd; s US$15- cost K1100).
20, d US$20-30; a) A colonial-era place that Ruby Restaurant (Lower Main Road; dishes K1000)
must have been quite smart in its day, the This restaurant, a short walk from the Breeze
Thanlwin has rested on its laurels, which Rest House, is bare-bones decoration- and
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E M a w l a m y i n e 157
menu-wise. Basic Bamar and Chinese rice Yangon involved either taking a smaller,
and curry dishes are served here. less comfortable bus to Mottama and then
Chan Thar Restaurant (Strand Rd; dishes K1000) It crossing by ferry or taking the larger, more
is another place that serves fish. comfortable buses from Yangon that took
several hours longer because they had to go
Getting There & Away via Hpa-an. Now several overnight buses,
AIR including BTT buses leave Yangon for Maw-
Myanma Airways (%21500; Thit Tor Yon St; h9am- lamyine (K3000, six to seven hours) in the
4pm) has once-weekly flights to/from Yan- evening. The ferry transfer is unnecessary
gon that also connect with Myeik and and you can avoid the longer route through
Kawthoung. At the time of research these Hpa-an if you choose. Tickets should be re-
flights left Mawlamyine for Myeik (US$75) served in advance; however, you can hop on
at 2pm on Wednesday but its not uncom- near the central market rather than the bus
mon for both the days and times to change. station, a few kilometres outside town.
For some reason these flights werent stop- Pick-ups to Hpa-an leave from around
ping in Dawei, so you have to go back to the central market every hour from 8am to
Yangon to fly to Dawei. The airport, a small, 3pm (K300, two hours).
warehouselike structure, is 5km south of Mawlamyines main bus station for south-
the city centre. Even though its a domestic bound buses or pick-ups is at the southern
flight, you will have to go through immigra- end of town off the road to Ye, where pub-
tion and customs. lic vehicles go to Thanbyuzayat, Kyaikkami,
Setse, Dawei, or Payathonzu on the Thai
BOAT border (opposite Three Pagodas Pass). The
Double-decker ferries leave from the Hpa-an Thai border at Payathonzu is closed.
jetty in Mawlamyine at noon every other day To proceed south by road into Tan-
for the trip up the Thanlwin River to Hpa- intharyi Division youll need luck, divine
an on the rivers eastern bank (US$2, five intervention and/or an official permit. At
hours). Its worth a trip to Hpa-an if only be- the time of research there were as many
cause this dirt-cheap riverboat cruise passes opinions regarding this subject as there
through stunning scenery of limestone are teashops in Yangon. The overwhelming
mountains and sugarcane fields definitely consensus, however, is that its probably
more scenic than the MandalayBagan boat not possible and possibly not desirable due
trip. Its not usually crowded and there are to the risk of robbery. This author was re-
a few sunchairs, perfect front-row seats for fused when trying to purchase a ticket at the
the river show. Bring your own food and Mawlamyine bus station.
drinks.
There are two main jetties on the Maw- TRAIN
lamyine side for ferries to/from Mottama: Two express trains run from Yangon to
the vehicle jetty at the northern end of town Mottama at 7am and 10pm daily. Both
and the pedestrian jetty just south of the trains make brief stops in Bago and Thaton.
central market off Strand Rd (see p153 for When the trains are running on time the
details on the ferries). trip takes nine hours slower than the bus.
Further south are two jetties reserved Still, the scenery from the train is, as usual,
for government boats only, followed by the much more engaging. Foreigner price for
larger Dawei jetty for boats to Dawei and an upper-class seat is US$17. Tickets can
Myeik (Mergui). Its quite difficult for for- be purchased at the train station.
eigners to arrange passage on any of these In the reverse direction, one train leaves
boats. If you want to try your luck, it may Mottama at 7pm and is scheduled to ar-
pay to inquire in Yangon at the office of rive in Yangon at 4.30am; another leaves
Myanma Five Star Line (MFSL; Map p98; in Yangon at 10am and arrives in Yangon at 6pm.
%01-295 279). In Mawlamyine tickets may be purchased
one day in advance at the Northern Rail-
BUS & PICK-UP way Booking Office, which stands between
Before the two-lane bridge over the Than- Strand Rd and South Bogyoke Rd, just north
lwin River was completed, coming from of the Hpa-an jetty.
158 M O N S TAT E A r o u n d M a w l a m y i n e www.lonelyplanet.com
A separate southern railway line begins at Mudon, 29km south of the city, is an area
the southern end of the city and terminates of verdant mountains home to deer, snakes
at Ye. From Ye, another local train contin- and other wild forest species jungle food
ues to Dawei. Foreigners have not been al- for restaurants in Mudon. The town is also
lowed to travel on these rail lines for some known for cotton weaving. Pick-ups from
time, due to a lack of security further south. Mawlamyines market (K300) take around
With the military presence surrounding a 45 minutes.
gas pipeline near Dawei, this situation is Just north of Mudon is a turn-off east to
unlikely to change soon. Azin Dam, a water-storage and flood-control
facility thats also used to irrigate local rub-
Getting Around ber plantations. A tidy recreation area at
Motorised thoun bein (three-wheelers) are Kandawgyi a lake formed by the dam is a
the main form of public transport around favourite picnic spot; bring your own snacks
the city. The highest concentration is on or rely on the vendors who gather here on
South Bogyoke Rd in front of the zeigyo. weekends and holidays. At the northern
Because there are relatively few foreign vis- end of the lake stands the gilded stupa of
itors, local transport costs are low and the Kandawgyi Paya.
rates are probably not far off from what
locals actually pay. The going rate is K200 Kyaikmaraw
for a short hop within the centre of town kYik'mer;
and as much as K500 for a ride up the ridge This small, charming town, site of an im-
to Kyaikthanlan. You can also rent bicycles pressive temple, 24km southeast of Maw-
from one of the hotels. lamyine is accessible via a sealed road. For
the most part, Kyaikmaraw is considered a
AROUND MAWLAMYINE pacified area, although insurgents or ban-
Only 14km south of Mawlamyine is the Pa- dits have been known to rob rubber planta-
Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery; at 400 acres its one of tions along the road to Mawlamyine.
the largest meditation centres in Myanmar. Hugging the banks of the Ataran River,
Foreigners can visit for the night or several a branch of the Thanlwin River, the town
days; sleeping and eating is gratis, medi- consists of mostly wooden homes with
tation may paid for by the sweat of your thatched-palm or corrugated metal roofs.
brow, but courses can be quite expensive
(see p335). Buses (K100, 30 minutes) from SIGHTS
Mawlamyines central market pass by the Kyaikmaraw Paya
road junction to the monastery from where The pride of the town is this temple built by
its a short walk. Queen Shin Saw Pu in 1455 in the late Mon
Just off the road between Mawlamyine and regional style. Among the temples many
Mudon is Yadana Taung where local Bud- outstanding features are multicoloured glass
dhists have only recently finished con- windows set in the outside walls of the main
structing Win Sein Taw Ya, a huge reclining sanctuary, an inner colonnade decorated in
Buddha measuring around 170m in length, mirrored tiles, and beautiful ceramic tile
making it one of the largest such images in floors. Painted reliefs appear on the exterior
the world. Many other stupas and standing of several auxiliary buildings.
Buddhas dot the area, affording wonderful Covered brick walkways lead up to and
panoramas of both the sculptures and coun- around the main square sanctuary in typ-
tryside. Nearby is Kyauktalon Taung, a flat- ical 15th-century Mon style. The huge main
topped limestone crag crowned with stupas. Buddha image sits in a European pose,
On the opposite side of the road is a simi- with the legs hanging down as if sitting on
lar but smaller outcropping surmounted a chair rather than in the much more com-
by a Hindu temple. Pick-ups from Maw- mon cross-legged manner. A number of
lamyines market (K300) take 45 minutes to smaller cross-legged Buddhas surround the
the junction for the road to Win Sein Taw main image, and behind it are two reclining
Ya. Its another K100 for a horse-cart ride Buddhas, one with eyes open, one with eyes
to the Buddha itself. Theres an interesting closed. Another impressive feature is the
line-up of monk statues on the road. carved and painted wooden ceiling.
www.lonelyplanet.com M O N S TAT E A r o u n d M a w l a m y i n e 159
A side room to the inner sanctuary con- of the infamous BurmaSiam Railway,
tains sculptures depicting the Buddha in dubbed the Death Railway by the over
various stages of illness and death other 16,000 Allied prisoners of war (POWs) and
than the traditional parinibbana reclining Asian coolies who were forced by the Japa-
posture, these are unusual motifs for Bud- nese military to build it. It was here that the
dhist temples. Two images show the Bud- Japanese broke into Myanmar after march-
dha lying on his back with hands folded on ing over the rugged mountain range separat-
his abdomen; another depicts an ill Buddha ing British Burma from Tak in Thailand via
stooping over slightly with one hand clasped Three Pagodas Pass.
to his chest, the other hand against the wall A clock tower in the centre of Thanbyu-
as his disciples reach out to assist him. zayat stands at a road junction; the road
Next to the main sanctuary is a small mu- south leads to Ye while the road west goes
seum with Buddha images, donated by the to Kyaikkami and Setse. About 1.5km south
faithful, on the upper floor; other artefacts of the clock tower, a locomotive and piece
from the area are on the lower floor. Some of of track commemorating the BurmaSiam
these objects are more than 500 years old. Railway are on display. A kilometre west of
the clock tower towards Kyaikkami, on the
GETTING THERE & AWAY southern side of the road, lies the Thanbyu-
Two kinds of trucks frequently ply the zayat War Cemetery, which contains 3771
Kyaikmaraw road from Mawlamyine: green graves of Allied POWs who died building
Chevy trucks with wooden door panels and the railway. Most of those buried were Brit-
wooden passenger compartments (K200, 45 ish, but there are also markers for Ameri-
minutes), and smaller, white Japanese pick- can, Dutch and Australian soldiers. The site
ups (K300, 30 minutes). Lined with toddy is maintained by the Commonwealth War
palms and rubber plantations, the road Graves Commission.
passes through eight villages before ending
at the riverbank in Kyaikmaraw. GETTING THERE & AWAY
Thanbyuzayat is easily reached by public
Thanbyuzayat pick-up (K600, two hours) from the Maw-
ofjrp' lamyine central market area; there are six
South of Mudon, little traffic is seen and the departures, all before noon. As there is no
hills to the east are more densely forested. legal lodging in Thanbyuzayat, start early
Thanbyuzayat (Tin Shelter), 64km south so you can catch the last pick-up back to
of Mawlamyine, was the western terminus Mawlamyine at around 4pm.
THE DEATH RAILWAY

The strategic objective of the BurmaSiam Railway was to secure an alternative supply route
for the Japanese conquest of Myanmar and other Asian countries to the west. Construction
on the railway began on 16 September 1942 at existing terminals in Thanbyuzayat and Nong
Pladuk, Thailand. At the time, Japanese engineers estimated that it would take five years to link
Thailand and Burma by rail, but the Japanese army forced the POWs to complete the 415km,
1m-gauge railway, of which roughly two-thirds ran through Thailand, in 16 months. Much of
the railway was built in difficult terrain that required high bridges and deep mountain cuttings.
The rails were finally joined 37km south of the town of Payathonzu (Three Pagodas Pass); a
Japanese brothel train inaugurated the line. The railway was in use for 20 months before the
Allies bombed it in 1945.
An estimated 16,000 POWs died as a result of brutal treatment by their captors, a story chroni-
cled by Pierre Boulles book Bridge on the River Kwai and popularised by a movie based on the
book. The notorious bridge itself still stands in Kanchanaburi, Thailand. Only one POW is known
to have escaped, a Briton who took refuge among pro-British Kayin guerrillas.
Although the statistics of the number of POWs who died during the Japanese occupation are
horrifying, the figures for the labourers, many from Myanmar, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia,
are even worse. It is thought that 90,000 to 100,000 coolies died in the area.
160 K AY I N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com
Kyaikkami Thanbyuzayat. Setse is a very wide, brown-

kYikmI sand beach that tends towards tidal flats
Located 9km northwest of Thanbyuzayat, when the shallow surf-line recedes at low
Kyaikkami was a small coastal resort and mis- tide. The beach is lined by waving casuarina
sionary centre known as Amherst during the trees and has been a popular spot for out-
British era. Adoniram Judson (17881850), ings since colonial times.
an American missionary and linguist who You can stay at the privately owned Ngwe
has practically attained sainthood among Moe Guesthouse (s/d US$10/18). Its on the beach,
Burmese Baptists, was sailing to India with along with several bungalows for Burmese
his wife when their ship was blown off citizens. Rooms are basic and electricity is
course, forcing them to land at Kyaikkami. scarce. A few modest restaurants offer fresh
Judson stayed on and established his first seafood.
mission here; the original site is now a Catho- For direct pick-up transport to Setse from
lic school on a small lane off the main road. Mawlamyine read at least one long stop
Among other accomplishments, Judson in Kyaikkami tickets (K300, 2 hours)
developed the first BurmeseEnglish dic- should be reserved a day in advance. Buses
tionary in 1849 and was the first person to run south but you may have to change once
translate the Bible into Burmese. He was in Thanbyuzayat and once in Kyaikkami.
imprisoned along with his wife by the Bur-
mese during the first Anglo-Burmese war
and served as the official translator to the KAYIN STATE
Burmese court during the negotiations of

the treaty that ended the war. Judson died kr='p'ny'
in 1850 and was buried at sea, but the grave Many districts in Kayin State and Tanin-
of his wife, Anne Judson, who died soon tharyi Division (which both share borders
after their release from prison in 1826, can with Thailand) are very much off-limits to
still be seen in Kyaikkami, about 200m off foreign visitors travelling from Yangon, but
the main road near the school. things are changing. Kayin State, homeland
However, the main focus of Kyaikkami to around a million Kayin, has probably re-
is Yele Paya, a metal-roofed Buddhist shrine ceived more foreign visitors who have cross-
complex perched over the sea and reached ed over unofficially from Thailand than
via a long two-level causeway; the lower from any other place. Many international
level is submerged during high tide. Along volunteers have ventured into the frontier
with 11 Buddha hair relics, the shrine cham- area to assist with refugee concerns.
ber beneath Yele Paya reportedly contains a Ever since Myanmar attained independ-
Buddha image that supposedly floated here ence from the British in 1948, the Kayin
on a raft from Sri Lanka in ancient times have been embroiled in a fight for auton-
(see Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi on p132 for omy. The main insurgent body, the Karen
more details on this legend). A display of National Union (KNU), controls much of
21 Mandalay-style Buddha statues sits over the northern and eastern parts of the state,
the spot where the Sinhalese image is sup- although recent Yangon military victories
posedly buried. have left the KNU and its military compo-
nent, the Karen National Liberation Army
GETTING THERE & AWAY (KNLA), without a permanent headquar-
During the early half of the day there are ters. A split between Christian and Bud-
occasional pick-ups to Kyaikkami from dhist factions has also weakened the KNU,
Thanbyuzayat for K150 per person. You which had become the de facto centre of
can also charter a taxi in Mawlamyine for the Democratic Alliance of Burma (DAB),
around K4000. From Mawlamyine its takes an alliance of a dozen rebel groups fighting
approximately 2 hours to get here. for regional autonomy. The KNU head-
quarters was also the seat of the National
Setse Coalition Government of the Union of
ck'cE Burma (NCGUB), a parallel government
This low-key Gulf of Martaban beach lies established by a group of National League
about halfway between Kyaikkami and for Democracy (NLD) members who won
www.lonelyplanet.com K AY I N S TAT E H p a - a n 161
parliamentary seats in the ill-fated May where the highly respected monk U Wi-
1990 national elections, but were denied naya, whose solid support of democracy
office by the military. Much of the state re- leader Aung San Suu Kyi is well known
mains a potential battleground as sporadic throughout Myanmar, resided. U Winaya
fighting between Burmese troops and the passed away several years ago. Thamanyat
KNLA continues. monastery is about 40km southeast of Hpa-
an, and there is a daily flow of small buses
HPA-AN to this busy religious site. The bus fare from
.;"a Hpa-an is K220.
Hpa-an is a small but busy commercial Eleven kilometres south of Hpa-an is Mt
centre that, in itself, doesnt necessarily Zwegabin, which is both a sacred and tall
warrant a trip. However, the beautiful river mountain; the best kind. At 722m high it
cruise between here and Mawlamyine and affords panoramic views of the surround-
a few off-the-beaten-track excursions make ing countryside from the summit. To get to
it worth the while of the intrepid travel- the mountain, take a pick-up in the direc-
ler. Away from the jetty, which is crowded tion of Thamanya and get off at the Zwe-
with trucks and motorcycles, it still has gabin junction; its a 15-minute walk from
something of the village atmosphere; farm- here through a village to the base of the
ers come to town in their horse carts, or mountain on the west side past thousands
trishaws stacked with baskets or mats to of identical Buddha statues lined up in row
sell in the market. The townspeople are a after row. The path up isnt exactly pictur-
mixture of Mon, Bamar and Muslim. Bur- esque its nothing more than hundreds
mese is the primary language, but Kayin and hundreds of concrete steps, but once up
is spoken by many. The mosque seems to the top, the two-hour effort is rewarded. If
be the town hub and there are numerous you arrive before noon at the small monas-
teashops around town, along with pick-ups tery at the top you can take advantage of a
to Thaton and on to Kyaiktiyo. complimentary lunch (rice, orange and tea)
You can reach Hpa-an, capital of Kayin and the 11am monkey feeding different
State, by road from Yangon across a bridge primates, different menus. Its possible to
over the Thanlwin River, west of the town, overnight here, which means you can also
or by river ferry from Mawlamyine. An- appreciate the fantastic sunsets. The de-
other new bridge across the Gyaing River at scent down the east side of the mountain
Zathabyin, east of Mawlamyine, links Hpa- takes around 45 minutes, and from the
an with Mawlamyine by road. The trip by bottom its another 3km to the main road
car takes an hour. from where you can catch a pick-up back to
From Hpa-an a rutted, unsurfaced road town. Hiring your own transport some-
heads 143km southeast to Myawadi, a town one to drop you off on one side and pick
controlled by the Tatmadaw (armed forces) you up on the other makes everything
on the western bank of the Thaungyin River run smoother.
(known as Moei River to the Thais) op- Bring a good torch to explore Saddar Cave.
posite the northern Thai town of Mae Sot. Its a good 10- to 15-minute journey through
A large number of Kayin refugees fleeing the cave to the other side, which exits onto
KNLATatmadaw battles are encamped on a lake.
the Thai side of the border in this area. Thousands of miniature clay and stone
carved Buddhas covered in gold and bronze
Sights & Activities line the walls of Kawgun Cave, near Kawgun
There are several interesting excursions village. If those werent enough, Yathaypyan
from Hpa-an and while all are accessible Cave has more Buddha statues though not
by public transport, it requires some long as many as Kawgun.
waits and unreliable connections. Its best Cross a long footbridge to get to the
to try to hire a motorbike, with or without Water Lake Monastery, built in the middle
a driver, for US$10 or so from one of the of an artificial lake, from where there are
guesthouses. good views of the surrounding countryside,
Hpa-an is famous among Burmese for obscured only by the birds and butterflies
the Buddhist village at Thamanyat Kuang and fluttering nearby.
162 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N D a w e i www.lonelyplanet.com
Sleeping & Eating

After the leisurely boat ride up from Maw-
lamyine, the choice of accommodation in
TANINTHARYI
Hpa-an is a disappointment. There are only
two places that accept foreigners; neither
(TENASSERIM) DIVISION
offers breakfast. tno;rItui='"
Soe Brothers Guesthouse (%058-21372; 46 Thitsa Known to the outside world as Tenasserim
Rd; s/d US$4/6) Rooms here have some charac- until 1989, Tanintharyi has a long history
ter and more importantly windows, though of trade with India (especially Coromandel)
no mosquito nets and a shared bathroom. and the Middle East. Because its joined
The staff can help with excursions and can with Thailand to a relatively slender length
provide a map of the town and surround- of land separating the Andaman Sea/Indian
ing area. Ocean from the Gulf of Thailand, this trade
Parami Hotel (r per person US$5, with bathroom & link included Siam and other nations east
TV US$22) Just around the corner from Soe of Myanmars eastern mountain ranges.
Brothers, the Paramis rooms are smaller Routes through Dawei and Myeik were
though they do have mosquito nets. There especially important, and for many years,
are a few rooms with a private bathroom before the arrival of the British in the late
and the staff members here are helpful and 19th century, the Siamese either controlled
friendly as well. the state or received annual tributes from
Theres a nameless but good teahouse its inhabitants.
next to the Soe Brothers Guesthouse that Most of the people living in the division
also serves fresh food including tasty fried are of Bamar ethnicity, although splitting
potato and onion fritters. Near the guest- hairs one can easily identify Dawei and
houses, Lucky Restaurant has beer on tap Myeik subgroups of the Bamar who enjoy
and is deservedly popular. their own dialect, cuisine and so on. Large
The following eating options are also numbers of Mon also live in the division,
near the guesthouses: and in or near the larger towns youll find
Khit-Thit Restaurant (New Age Restaurant) Kayin (often Christian) and Indian (often
San Ma Tu Restaurant (Bogyoke St) A good place for Muslim) residents, as well as Thais and the
vegetarians. sea gypsies or Salon who inhabit the is-
lands of the coast. Pearl farms on islands
Getting There & Away in the area, established by the Ministry of
BOAT Mines were expected to produce more than
See p157 for information on the double- 200,000 pearls in 2004.
decker ferries that travel the scenic route
between Hpa-an and Mawlamyine. Boats DAWEI ( TAVOY )
leave Hpa-an at 7am every other day (US$2, q;"vy'
two hours). %036
Despite the presence of a university, Dawei
BUS & PICK-UP is still a sleepy, tropical seaside town. Only
Buses to Hpa-an (K2000), run by the Shwe recently connected to the rest of Myanmar
Chin The company, depart from Yangons by road and rail, its still only accessible
Aung Mingalar (Highway) Bus Terminal at to foreigners by air, so hardly any tour-
8pm and arrive at about 7am. From Hpa- ists visit. Areas to the west and north of
an buses to Yangon leave every evening at town are planted in rice, while to the east
6pm and take from 10 to 11 hours. Buses lie patches of jungle. Some of the architec-
and pick-ups to Mawlamyine (K300, two ture in town is quite impressive, with many
hours) leave every hour from 8am to 3pm. old wooden houses, more modest thatch-
Pick-ups from Hpa-an to Kyaiktiyo (K800 roofed bungalows and a few colonial-style
for front seat) depart from the front of the brick-and-stucco mansions. Throw in a
green mosque. Pick-ups to/from Thaton few Eastern-bloc aesthetic touches and you
cost about K500. Buses depart from near have an interesting architectural mix.
the Parami Hotel at about 6pm for Kyaik- Tall, slender sugar palms, coco palms, ba-
tiyo and Bago. nana and other fruit trees, along with lots of
www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N D a w e i 163
hanging orchids, are interspersed through- road. Bear right at the fork, follow the road
out its a very green town due to the abun- another 200m and youll come to the paya
dant annual rain that falls on the southern on your right.
half of Tanintharyi Division. In spite of its
remote location or perhaps because of it SHWETHALYAUNG DAW MU
Dawei has become a significant Burmese ers;elY;='" etmu
Buddhist centre. Completed in 1931, one of the largest re-
Hundreds of Tanintharyi Division resi- clining Buddhas in the country 74m long,
dents fled to Thailand rather than work 21m high is at the edge of town (about
on the 100 mile-long (160km) Ye to Dawei 5km from the central Strand Rd market).
railway completed for the most part in
1998. According to Amnesty International, SHINMOKHTI PAYA
refugees reported conditions approaching rH='mutI".ur;"
those described in chronicles of the Japa- About 5km beyond Shwethalyaung Daw Mu
nese armys Death Railway though the on the same road, this paya is the most sa-
government asserts the work was done by cred of local religious monuments. Report-
army personnel. edly constructed in 1438, its one of four
Dawei is also near the starting point of shrines in the country housing a Sinhalese
the massive 700km Yadana gas pipeline, Buddha image supposedly made with a com-
which carries natural gas from fields in the posite of cement and pieces of the original
Gulf of Mottama to Ratchaburi Province Bodhi Tree. During religious festivals this is
in Thailand. About 400km of its length one of the liveliest spots in the district.
runs through Mon State and Tanintharyi
Division, the remainder through Thailand. KAREN BAPTIST CHURCH
Reportedly, the Myanmar government re- The American Baptists had a long and ac-
located villages originally in the pipelines tive history in Dawei, beginning in 1828.
path with little or no compensation for The Karen Baptist Church, founded by an
the villagers. There have also been charges American evangelist in 1957, is still in use
that forced labour was used in building the in the Shan Malei Swe Quarter; foreign vis-
pipeline. Because of the pipelines perceived itors are welcome.
strategic importance, there is a fairly heavy
military presence around Dawei. BEACHES & ISLANDS
Also because of its proximity to Bangkok, Few foreigners have been permitted to visit
only a few hours by road, theres talk of de- the coastal areas around Dawei, so details
veloping the beaches around Dawei, which are still sketchy. The best local beach, Maung-
some claim rival Ngwe Saung and Ngapali magan (also spelt Maungmakan), is around
in the west of the country, for foreign tour- 18km west of Dawei via a narrow, winding,
ism. However, as long as the area remains patched blacktop road over a high ridge and
politically unstable this wont happen. through rubber plantations. A very wide
sand beach stretches 8km to 10km along a
Sights & Activities large, pretty bay. Near the road a few out-
THEINWA KYAUNG (PAYAGYI) door vendors offer snacks and beverages in
sim'vekY;='" (.ur;"kI") the shade of casuarina trees and palms. On
The main Buddhist monastery in town, weekends and holidays this end of the beach
usually referred to simply as Payagyi (Big draws a crowd, but if you walk 500m or so
Pagoda), contains a complex of sizeable up the beach youre likely to have it all to
Mon-style vihara (glittering cubes of reflec- yourself, save for the occasional fisherman.
tive mosaics filled with gilded Buddhas). The surf at Maungmagan is fairly tame,
The best time to visit Theinwa Kyaung is even during the southwest monsoon, and
in the early evening, just after sunset, when the water is very clean, better than around
hordes of local residents come to make of- Myeik, so its a good beach for swimming.
ferings and to meditate for an hour or two. Opposite Maungmagan is a collection of
To find it, head northwest along Yodaya three pretty island groups that were named
Rd, past the Royal Guest House on your the Middle Moscos Islands by the British
right, until you come to a large fork in the they are now known as Maungmagan, Hienze
164 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N M y e i k www.lonelyplanet.com
and Launglon (or collectively as the Maung- direct flights per week from Yangon to
magan Islands). Due to a natural profu- Dawei costing US$70 per person. The flight
sion of wild boar, barking deer, sambar time is one hour and 10 minutes.
and swiftlets (sea swallows), these islands Flights with YA continue to Myeik and
are part of a marine sanctuary, originally Kawthoung before turning around and hit-
established by the British in 1927. ting the same three stops on the way back
Local taxi trucks from the Strand Rd to Yangon. The YA fare is US$50 between
market go to the beach at Maungmagan Myeik and Dawei and the ride takes less
or to Zalut for about K800 and K1500 per than an hour. Between Dawei and Kaw-
person. thoung the fare is US$70.
Festivals & Events BOAT

During the annual Thingyan festival in April, MFSL sails between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik
Daweis male residents don huge, 4m bam- and Kawthoung several times a month, but
boo-frame effigies and dance down the travel is slow and there is no fixed schedule.
streets to the beat of the kalakodaun, an It takes two days and two nights between
Indian long drum. Yangon and Dawei, and possibly up to a
week in the rainy season.
Sleeping & Eating Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express
Most visitors to Dawei come on business (%51500) run daily trips to/from Myeik
traders involved in oil, marine products, (US$20, 6 hours). If Fortune leaves one
rubber, wolfram, tin or cashews so the day, HiFi leaves the next; both depart at
guesthouses are not used to tourists. around 4am. For some more information
Ekari Guest House (%21980, 21780; 52 Ye Yeiqtha see p168.
Rd; r US$10-25) This is a two-storey wooden
guesthouse in a relatively quiet neighbour- BUS
hood. Its the cleanest place in town. The Various private bus companies now operate
more expensive rooms have private bath- buses from Yangons Highway bus terminal
rooms. Electricity is available only in the all the way to Dawei, although foreign trav-
early evening. ellers arent usually allowed to take the bus.
Royal Guest House (Yodaya Rd; r per person US$10) At the time of writing, flying was the only
The Royal is located in a corner of one of sure way to get to Dawei from Yangon. If
the main four-way intersections in the cen- you were allowed to take a bus from Yan-
tre of town. Rooms are not well-kept com- gon to Dawei, the trip would take about
pared to Ekari and street noise is a factor 17 hours. The situation may change so its
when trying to sleep. always a good idea to ask at the bus station
Taungoo Rest House (%21951; r US$10) Right or consult a travel agent in Yangon.
across the street from the Royal is another
big, two-storey colonial building. There MYEIK (MERGUI)
is a caf downstairs serving inexpensive mit'
BamarMuslim food. %021
Tharaphu Hotel (r US$10) A similar option to Myeik doesnt receive many foreign vis-
the Taungoo. itors; rightly so as theres not much of inter-
Along Yodaya Rd, one of the main thor- est. Those who do venture here by boat or
oughfares through town, are several small plane, though, will attract loads of friendly
rice- and teashops. Supereye (Strand Rd) of- attention. Until recently Myeik which sits
fers an extensive English-language menu on a peninsula that juts out into the Anda-
of Chinese and Bamar cuisine, much of it man Sea was a fairly picturesque coastal
seafood-based. The food is good, if a little city with a wide range of architectural styles
expensive by Myanmar standards. lining the streets. Increased cash flow due
to the export of seafood to Thailand caused
Getting There & Away a miniboom in building during the 1990s,
AIR and many old buildings were replaced by
Yangon Airways (YA) and the government- modern ones. Then in 2001, a large portion
owned Myanma Airways (MA) field three of the remaining old architecture was razed
www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N M y e i k 165
by fire; the rebuilding effort has largely sac- Sleeping

rificed style for utility. Accommodation in Myeik represents some
The British occupied the region follow- of the worst value in the country. The few
ing the First Anglo-Burmese War in 1826, foreigners who make it here are generally
so that along with Sittwe, Myeik became business travellers and so there are only a
one of the first cities in Myanmar to be- few overpriced hotels and guesthouses with
come part of British India. The Japanese no character.
invaded in 1941, but by 1945 Myeik was Dolphin Hotel (%41523; 139 Kanphyar Rd; s/d
back in British hands, until independence US$25/40) Owned as a joint venture with the
was achieved in 1948. Myanmar Fisheries Industry, the modern
Dolphin is easily the nicest place in town
Sights & Activities though staff members arent especially
The citys most venerated Buddhist temple, friendly or helpful. Rooms in this two-storey
Theindawgyi Paya, sits on a ridge overlooking building are dark wood with modern and
the city and harbour. A tall gilded stupa clean bathrooms. Its on the road from the
stands on a broad platform with excellent airport into town.
views of the city below and islands in the Pale Mon Hotel (%41841; s/d US$20/30; a)
distance. Down the road from the airport and adja-
Pataw Padet Island, a five-minute boat ride cent to the Myeik Golf Club, the Pale Mon
(per person K1000) from the harbour, is has large, poorly furnished plain rooms,
named after two prominent hills at either with intermittent air-con, TVs with two
end of the island. Several religious build- channels, and private bathrooms with cold-
ings, stupas and sculptures have been water showers. The basic breakfast makes
constructed on the island. A large, hollow the rooms, in comparison, seem luxurious.
reclining 66m-long Buddha, Atula Shweth- Ban Gaba Guest House (r US$10) Near the jetty
alyaung, lies at the foot of rocky, jungle- south of the market, this two-storey place
covered Padet Hill to the south. Unusually, has bare, concrete rooms. Theres a balcony
its a hollow cement form with an interior on the 2nd floor.
walkway lined with comic-strip-like Jataka Other similar low-quality places charg-
(stories of the Buddhas past lives) scenes ing around US$10 per room are the Ahyo-
as yet unfinished. neoo Guest House, Seikantha Hotel and
The harbourfront is worth a stroll to watch Shwekanenari Guest House.
stevedores loading and offloading cargo Travellers who wish to avoid Myanmars
from ships big and small. government-owned hotels should stay clear
Not far from Theindawgyi Paya theres of the Annawa Guest House, high on a
a Muslim quarter with two mosques and lots ridge near Theindawgyi Paya.
of teashops. There are seven other mosques
in the city. Eating
Near the harbour, Sibinthaya Zei (Municipal Seafood is abundant and inexpensive. One
Market; h6am-5pm Mon-Sat, closed holidays), is a local speciality is kat gyi kai (scissor-cut
very large and colourful collection of en- noodles): wheat noodles that have been cut
closed stalls covering a city block. into short strips and stir-fried with seafood
and various spices. Its a delicious meal,
ISLANDS usually eaten for breakfast or lunch.
Boats to the nearby islands of the Mergui Meik Set (U Myat Lay Rd, Kan Paya Quarter; h6am-
Archipelago can in theory be chartered for 5pm) An old wood-and-thatch teashop and
US$60 per day from Myeiks harbour. How- restaurant with a dirt floor, this is one of
ever, the water around Myeik is less clear the best places to try kat gyi kai. Other
than the water around Kawthoung and treats available here include kauk hnyn kin
there are no reputable travel agencies in (sticky rice steamed with coconut milk in
Myeik either to facilitate a trip. If interested little banana-leaf packets).
in the visiting this offshore wonderland, it Sakura Food & Drinks (U Myat Lay Rd, Kan Paya
makes sense to travel from Kawthoung (see Quarter; chicken dishes K2500) On the same street
p167) or to arrange a trip from Ranong or as Meik Set, Sakura has an extensive menu,
Phuket in Thailand (p333). though relatively pricey, of Southeast Asian
166 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N K a w t h o u n g www.lonelyplanet.com
seafood dishes, Thai soups, burgers, ome- land Myanmar 800km from Yangon and
lettes and sandwiches. Its very popular with 2000km from the countrys northern tip
locals. Kawthoung is only separated from Thailand
Shwe Mon Family Restaurant (h7am-8pm) For by a broad estuary in the Pagyan River.
traditional Bamar cuisine with local flair, The main business in town is trade with
try this place near the waterfront in the Seik Thailand, followed by fishing, rubber and
Nge Quarter. cashews. Among the Burmese, Kawthoung
Point Restaurant (h7am-9pm) On the same is best known for producing some of the
street as the Shwe Mon, closer to the har- countrys outstanding kickboxers. Most
bour, this restaurant is not a bad place to Kawthoung residents are bilingual in Thai
down a beer or two and eat appetisers. and Burmese. Many residents born and
raised in Kawthoung, especially members
Getting There & Away of the large Muslim community, also speak
AIR Pashu, a dialect that mixes the Thai, Malay
In Myeik, the YA representative (%21160; 115 and Burmese languages.
Bogyoke Rd) has an office near Sibinthaya Zei A few enterprising businesses hope to
(Municipal Market). use Kawthoung as a base for boat trips to
Myanma Airways (U Myat Lay Rd) flies from Yan- the hundreds of islands in the nearby Mer-
gon to Myeik daily for US$100 (one hour gui archipelago. Although its not far north
and 10 minutes). There are three flights of the region of Thailand devastated by
a week between Mawlamyine and Myeik, the December 2004 tsunami, Kawthoung
and Myeik and Kawthoung that cost US$70 came away relatively unscathed; that is ex-
for each leg. The MA office is next door to cept for the tragic death of 20 people who
Sakura Food & Drinks. were washed away after they gathered on
a bridge to watch the wave come in. Any
BOAT downturn in tourism to southern Thailand
Both Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express will undoubtedly impact on Kawthoung.
(%51500) have trips at 11am daily to Dawei
(US$20, 6 hours) and at 8am daily to Sights & Activities
Kawthoung (US$25, 6 hours). For more Kawthoungs bustling waterfront is lined
details see p168. with teashops, moneychangers and shops
MFSL sails, on average, twice a month selling Thai construction materials. Touts
between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik and Kaw- stroll up and down the pier area, arranging
thoung, but travel is very slow and tickets boat charters to Thailand for visitors and
hard to get. traders. Along one side of the harbour lies
Cape Bayinnaung (Victoria Point) named after
BUS & PICK-UPS King Bayinnaung, a Bamar monarch who in-
There are daily buses and pick-ups from vaded Thailand several times between 1548
Dawei, 249km north, but its highly un- and 1569. A bronze statue of Bayinnaung
likely foreigners will be permitted to travel outfitted in full battle gear and brandishing
by bus to Myeik. Foreigners are similarly a sword pointed at Thailand not exactly a
prohibited from travelling by road south to welcoming sight for visiting Thais stands
Kawthoung, though at the time of research at the crest of a hill on the cape.
road work was proceeding apace to link the At the top of the hill overlooking the har-
two towns. bour is the Pyi Taw Aye Paya. Unlike many
other temples, you can walk inside and
KAWTHOUNG under the main stupa originally built in
ek;eo;='" 1949 to a height of only 5m; it was later
If coming here from within Myanmar, raised to its current stature of 21m. There
youre likely be startled by the wacky sight of are eight meditation niches that represent
foreigners in bathing shorts and bikinis, day- the eight days of the Buddhist week, and
trippers on visa runs from Ranong, Thai- 14 Buddha images representing the styles
land. Travelling between the two countries seen in other Asian countries. A banyan
at this point in time feels like teleporting tree brought from Sri Lanka provides the
50 years. At the southernmost tip of main- only shade.
www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N K a w t h o u n g 167
About 5km north of town, the fishing vil- and boat charters are expensive. However,
lage of Thirimyaing Lan is known for its hill- Moby Dick offers boat trips to Sa Lon and
top Third Mile Pagoda, with good sea and Palau Ton Ton Island (per person US$32
island views. Thirimyaing Lanalso boasts including lunch).
good local seafood restaurants along its wa- Opposite Kawthoungs harbourfront the
terfront. Another 11km on is Paker Beach, southernmost island in the Mergui Archi-
reportedly the best nearby mainland beach. pelago, Mwedaw Kyun, is mounted by two
Locals cool off in the waters flowing from gilded zedi.
the surrounding mountains at the Ma Li Won
rock pools. To reach this bathing site involves LAMPI KYUN
a 38km drive through the beautiful Ma Li Further offshore, Lampi Kyun, possibly
Won Valley north of Kawthoung, dotted one of the least disturbed island habitats
with plantations of sugar cane, palm oil, in Southeast Asia, has been designated as a
betel and cashew nut, rubber and coconuts. national park. Extending about 90km long
and 8km wide, this rugged landmass fea-
MERGUI (MYEIK) ARCHIPELAGO tures a forested, mountainous interior and
mit'kn'"cu two year-round rivers that flow into the sea
Far beyond the value of any local product from the islands western shore. Wildlife on
rubber, marine products or swiftlets nests the island includes white-bellied sea eagles,
is the Mergui Archipelagos huge, almost Brahminy kites, parakeets, hornbills, gib-
completely untapped potential in the beach- bons, crab-eating macaques, flying lemurs,
going and ecotourism market. The locals civets, tigers, leopard cats, boar, barking
say there are over 4000 islands in the archi- deer, sea otters, crocodiles and fruit bats.
pelago, though British surveyors recognised Some naturalists speculate that the in-
only 804. Most are uninhabited, though a terior of Lampi might harbour hitherto-
few are home to sea gypsies, a nomadic sea- undiscovered animal species, or species
faring people who sail from island to island, thought to be extinct elsewhere in South-
stopping off to repair their boats or fishing east Asia, such as the Sumatran rhinoceros
nets. Known as Salon to the Burmese, chao or kouprey. A few Phuket-based tour com-
nam to the Thais, orang laut or orang basin panies operate hiking and river excursions
to the Malays and Moken or Maw Ken (sea- on Lampi see p333 for a list of outfitters.
drowned) among themselves, this may have
been the first ethnic group to have lived in Tours
what is today Myanmar. With stones tied Moby Dick Tours (in Yangon %01-441 0129, 01-202
to their waists as ballast, Moken divers can 064; www.mobydick-myanmar.com) This full-service
reportedly descend to a depth of 60m while travel agency is in an office attached to the
breathing through an air hose held above restaurant of the same name on the jetty
the waters surface. (see p168). Moby Dick rents bicycles, ar-
Theres an ongoing dolphin research pro- ranges overnight boat trips to offshore is-
gram in the islands, though tourists arent lands, day trips to the Malewon Valley, and
allowed to visit. The government is building importantly can assist with immigration
a bridge between Palau Ton Ton Island and matters. Showers are available for 20B.
the mainland. During low tide its possible MT&K Tourism (in Yangon%01-663 161; www.travel
to swim or kayak into an enormous cave tomyanmar.com; 19 Yodaya Lane, Yangon) The MT&K
on Kyet Mauk Island where you see reef company runs seven-day sea-kayaking trips
fish and snakes. On Lon Khuet Island, over out of Kawthoung.
80 people live farming birds nests from
inside a huge cavern; a hole in the top of Sleeping
the cave lets in some sunlight, making for There are only three places in Kawthoung
a breathtaking scene. approved to accept foreigners, and none are
A sea-gypsy festival is held during the sec- especially good value. Note that Thai baht,
ond week of February at Ma-Kyon-Galet kyat and US dollars are readily accepted.
village on a small island near Lampi. The electricity supply can be erratic.
There is no regular transport to any of Kawthoung Motel (%51046; cnr Bogyoke Rd &
these islands, except to the closest ones, Bosonpat St; r 800B; a) A 500m or so uphill
168 TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N K a w t h o u n g www.lonelyplanet.com
walk from the jetty, the four-storey Kaw- Shopping

thoung Motel is the classier of the slim A huge duty-free market, built in a pseudo-
lot. Simple, comfortable, carpeted, double Bamar style in 1997, sits right next to Kaw-
rooms have private cold-water shower and thoungs harbour.
satellite TV. Breakfast in the attached night- Just under the hill are Super Market Cherry
club is rudimentary. (%51067; 253 Pagoda Rd) and Acme Fabric Centre
Honey Bear Hotel (%21352; r 800B; a) This (AFC; %21193; 252 Pagoda Rd), two good shops
hulking four-storey building takes up a to pick up high-quality handicrafts and
good deal of the waterfront about 150m lacquerware, though prices are higher than
from the main jetty. Rooms are only pass- in Yangon.
able, not especially uplifting, and the noisy
generator can be a nuisance. Getting There & Away & Around
Tanintharyi Guest House (%51784; Garden St; It is now legal to travel between Dawei and
r K400; a) You get what you pay for at the Kawthoung by plane or boat, or between
Tanintharyi, the least expensive of Kaw- Yangon and Kawthoung by plane. Road
thoung accommodation options. On a street travel to Kawthoung, though, is forbidden.
off Bogyoke Rd, an uphill walk from the
jetty, this guesthouse has several large if bare AIR
all-concrete rooms with private bathroom. Flights between Yangon and Kawthoung
Less expensive rooms have fans. cost US$145 on MA. All flights stop in
Andaman Club Resort (in Ranong %077-830 463, Myeik and some in Mawlamyine as well.
in Bangkok % 026-798 389; www.andamanclub.com; Its not unusual for flights to be cancelled
r US$125-450) On nearby 700-hectare Thahtay because of bad weather. The airport is 11km
Kyun, is a huge five-star hotel complex that from town.
sports a casino, duty-free shops and a Jack
Nicklausdesigned 18-hole golf course. BICYCLE
You can catch a five-minute boat ride out Moby Dick rents bicycles for 50B per hour.
to the island from the jetty in Kawthoung
for 200B. BOAT
Both Fortune Express (%51718) and HiFi Express
Eating (%51500) run daily trips to/from Myeik
There are several teashops and restaurants (US$25, 6 hours). If Fortune leaves one
along the waterfront and the block directly day, HiFi leaves the next. From the out-
behind the Moby Dick Restaurant. side the long and sleek boats appear very
Moby Dick Restaurant (in Yangon%01-441 0129; comfortable but, unfortunately, like most
Strand Rd; dishes 50B; h10am-11pm) Dominating transport options in Myanmar the max-
the waterfront skyline, looking more like imum seating capacity is used only as a
an ancient temple than a modern restaurant suggested minimum. If youre only one
and travel agency, the Moby Dick rightfully or two you may be offered a spot in the
draws in travellers who are in Myanmar for pilot house. Otherwise youll have to cram
only a few minutes and locals relaxing with yourself into the packed cabin. Movies and
a cold beer. Theres a few outdoor tables plus videos are played throughout the journey.
a bunch inside the modern and attractive Bring your own food and water. Boats leave
dining room. The menu includes Thai, Chi- Kawthoung around 5.30am.
nese, Bamar and a good selection of seafood; MFSL sails, on average, twice a month
the prawns are especially good. between Yangon, Dawei, Myeik and Kaw-
Smile Restaurant (%51691; Bogyoke Rd) This thoung, but travel is very slow and unreli-
Chinese-run place is up the hill from the able. The boats carry up to 400 passengers
jetty near Kawthoung Motel. An English- and take a minimum of two days to reach
language menu offers several seafood dishes, Kawthoung from Yangon (cabin US$150).
including a delicious crab curry.
Li Li Flower Restaurant (Bogyoke Rd) Attached BUS
to the Honey Bear Hotel is a place with air- In 1993 the government began constructing
con that serves Thai, Bamar and Chinese a new MyeikKawthoung road that passes
food along with well-chilled beer. through Tanintharyi and Bokpyin. The
www.lonelyplanet.com TA N I N T HA R Y I ( T E N A S S E R I M ) D I V I S I O N K a w t h o u n g 169
KAWTHOUNG BORDER CROSSING

This is an open border. Boats to Kawthoung (250B, 40 minutes) from Thailand leave the Saphan
Pla pier in Ranong almost 10km away regularly from around 8am till 6pm. After getting your
passport stamped by Thai immigration, board one of the boats near the immigration office and
youll be taken to the Myanmar immigration office. At this point you must inform immigration
authorities whether youre a day visitor in which case you must pay a fee of US$5 for a permit.
Apparently, this day pass actually allows you to stay a total of two nights and three days in
Myanmar, although most visitors spend only a few minutes to an hour before heading back to
Thailand with a new Thai visa. If you have a valid Myanmar visa in your passport (e-visas arent
recognized at this border), youll be permitted to stay up to 28 days.
Its slightly more complicated if leaving Myanmar from Kawthoung. If you did not originally
enter the country from Kawthoung and have not arranged a permit through a travel agency or
immigration officials in Yangon, odds are youll be asked to pay a visit to the local Myanmar
Travels & Tours (MTT) office and pay a US$25 fee. Apparently approval can only be granted with
the Yangon offices permission, so expect the process to take 24 hours, requiring an overnight
stay.
Ironically, if you have an expired visa authorities are even less enthusiastic about facilitating
your speedy departure. The staff at Moby Dick Tours can help but the process is a headache
involving multiple trips to the MTT office, a fee of US$35, a complete itinerary of your travel in
the country, and a signed statement attesting to the fact you are a tourist and not a political
agitator.
Boats from Kawthoung can be hired for 150B from around 6am to 4.30pm, the time the
Myanmar immigration office at the jetty closes.
486km road passes through some beauti- Buses run between Kawthoung and Myeik,
ful scenery, including over 300 rivers and but while road conditions are improving,
streams. The first 60 or so kilometres of this robbery is not uncommon, hence foreigners
road north from Kawthoung is possibly the are unlikely to be permitted to travel this
best road youll find in all of Myanmar and route. At the time of research there was one
passes palm, rubber, cashew and durian bus every Tuesday (US$10, eight hours) that
plantations. left Kawthoung for Myeik.
170
Northeastern
Myanmar
From the muddy crawl of the Ayeyarwady River to the rapids rolling down from the Hima-
laya, and then on to the watery vision of Inle Lake and the switchback roads that carve
through mountain passes, revealing hills and rice paddies on the other side, this geographi-
cally and culturally diverse landlocked region is a world unto itself.
Large swaths of this territory, extending from Tibet in the north to Thailand in the south,
and encompassing Shan, Kachin and Kayah states, remain unexplored by foreigners, as
theyre officially off limits or simply too demanding to access for many.
For the most part, people live in the valleys formed by the Ayeyarwady and Thanlwin
Rivers and their tributaries, which divide Kachin and Shan States down the middle. Because
the northeast is home to so many different ethnic groups, including the Bamar, Shan and
Kachin, with significant populations of Wa, Padaung, Kokang, Atsi, Jinphaw, Lahsi, Lisu and
dozens of smaller minorities, travelling here is special just for the opportunity to socialise
with your fellow passengers on those slow-moving boats, buses and trains crawling through
the interior of Myanmar.
The best way to visit the multitude of ethnic groups is on foot, and the region abounds
with fantastic trekking destinations Kalaw, Inle Lake, Hsipaw, Namhsan, Kengtung and
Putao just for starters.
N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
HIGHLIGHTS
You can hike around the trekking centre
of Kalaw (p176) and anywhere else you
so desire anywhere, that is, thats not
off limits
People live, work and sell things around
Inle Lake (p181), a mountain-framed
watery oasis
Ayeyarwardy
River
Drift down the heart of the north on the
Ayeyarwady River (p217) as the country
glides by Namhsan
Hsipaw
Overnight stays and morning walks in
Pyin U Lwin
and around remote villages near Hsipaw
(p209), Namhsan (p213) or even remoter Kengtung
Kengtung (p200) Kalaw
Inle Lake
Charming colonial architecture in cool
climes awaits visitors to Pyin U Lwin
(p204)
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E A S T E R N MYA N MA R C l i m a t e 171
CLIMATE and more bearable the higher up you go; this

Parts of this region have the most pleasant also makes the region favourable for opium
climate in the country, attested to by the fact cultivation. In the far north it gets downright
that the British built several hill stations in cold at night the snowcapped mountains
the area so that the colonial authorities could are a dead giveaway for frigid temperatures.
escape from the oppressive heat of the low- Temperatures can also drop to near zero at
lands. Even during the hot season (March to night in the highlands around Inle Lake dur-
June) daytime temperatures become more ing December and January.
0 200 km
NORTHEASTERN MYANMAR 0 120 miles
TIBET
Hkakabo
Razi
(5889m)
Tezu INDIA
CHINA
Ma
Dibrugarh
lih
ka
Ma
Putao
ykh
River
Jorhat
H
River
Mon u
V ka
ng
al un
le g
y
n Tau
Tanai
Kumo
SAGAING KACHIN
DIVISION STATE
Myit-son
Hpakan
Myitkyina
Moegaung
Indawgyi
Ayeyarwady Rive
Lake
Imphal
Moehnyin
Luxi
Paungbyin Naba Shwegu (Mangshi)
r
Bhamo
Katha Ruili
31 36 Mu-se
Mawlaik Namkham CHINA
li River
Shwe
SHAN
3
Kalewa STATE
Namtu Hsenwi
Namhsan
Ye-U Kin-u Lashio
Mogok
Meko
SAGAING
DIVISION Gokteik Hsipaw
Shwebo Viaduct
ng R
Kyaukme
Naunghkio 445
Gokteik
iver
Monywa 3
Mandalay Pyin U Lwin
Dulao
Kyaukse Mong La
Myingyan
Padah-Lin 44
Pakokku Cave Kengtung
Ye-Ngan 4 (Kyaingtong)
Bagan Mong Yaung
Pindaya Loi-Mwe
Pindaya iver
MAGWE Meiktila Thazi Caves
4 Nam Manyang gR
DIVISION Shwenyaung kon
Heho Me
1 Taunggyi Mong Hpayak
2 Kalaw
r
Rive
Aungban Nyaungshwe
Tachileik
LAOS
(Yaunghwe)
MANDALAY Xieng Kok
Inle Kakku
Magwe
DIVISION Lake Mae Sai
Mong Tong
in
Taungdwingyi
Thanlw
5
Chiang Rai
2 Pyinmana Loikaw
Lawpita
Myayde Mae Hong Son
Myohla KAYAH
RAKHAING STATE
STATE
Taungoo 5
KAYIN Chiang THAILAND
Pyay BAGO STATE Mai
172 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W T h a z i www.lonelyplanet.com
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES topography looks tame and organised, a

Although there is active insurgency from patchwork of farmland and unspoiled for-
national groups in the region, primarily in ests, whereas from the road to Kalaw (com-
southern Shan State, foreigners are gener- ing from Thazi or Inle Lake) this Shan State
ally prevented from visiting these areas. territory is formidably mountainous and
rugged. It is perhaps the area in Myanmar
GETTING THERE & AWAY in which foreign tourists have the most free-
Most travellers pick only one, or at the most dom and flexibility to tailor their itineraries
two, of the routes in the northeast because after all, its feasible to hike between all the
travel in these parts is time intensive. A few primary destinations. Once you arrive in
areas of the northeast are completely off the area, public transportation is fairly con-
limits to foreign travellers, including the venient, but extra time is necessary to truly
land route between Taunggyi and Keng- appreciate everything, from the hill-tribe vil-
tung, all of Kayah State and the southern lages to the pastoral highlands and the watery
Shan territory. Most of the towns are linked oasis of Inle Lake.
by both trains and buses, and while the
former may be more appealing they are also THAZI
undoubtedly slower. Many travellers enter o;c'
the area by flying into Heho, the gateway to Many visitors begin or end their journey
the Inle Lake region. Taking a flight is the in Shan territory in this rail-junction town
only way to get to the Kengtung area. Flying about 65km west of the Shan State border in
is the only way to get to the Kengtung area. the Mandalay Division. Its little more than
Last but certainly not least, the Ayeyarwady a place where people embark or disembark
River cuts down the centre of the entire from the train when travelling to/from
region and provides a good opportunity to Bagan or Inle Lake. On the other hand, its
test out Myanmars local ferry industry. easy to bypass Thazi altogether by travelling
on express buses from Bagan to destina-
tions in Shan State and Yangon or simply
THAZI TO INLE VIA by flying to Heho.
KALAW Sleeping & Eating

Moon-Light Rest House (ThaziTaunggyi Hwy; r with
This geographically diverse narrow corridor fan US$3, s/d with air-con US$8/15; a) On the top
is probably the most popular tourist route floor of the Red Star Restaurant (dishes K700), this
to Mandalay after Bagan. From the air the is Thazis only licensed lodging. Both the
0 20 km
THAZI-TAUNGGYI CORRIDOR 0 12 miles
To Padah-Lin To Lawksawk
To Mandalay Caves Kyong (38km)
SHAN
r
(145km) 41
ve
STATE
Ri
43
g
Thazi
n
La
Pindaya
m
Na
To
Meiktila Hlaingdet
4 Pwehla Taunggyi
(20km);
Bagan
(140km)
Yinmanbin Shwenyaung

To
Kengtung
Heho (456km)
MANDALAY Tam
4 Phaya

DIVISION Aungban
5
Kalaw Nyaungshwe

Ham Se
Kaung Daing
Pyawbwe Inle
Lake

Ywama
54 Kakku
Nam
Pilu Riv Kyauk
e r Ta Lone
To Yangon To Loikaw (112km)
(431km) To Sankar
www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W K a l a w 173
restaurant and rest house are run by the The ThaziTaungoo and ThaziMandalay
friendly Htun family. There are simple rooms routes both take from five to six hours; or-
with two beds, mosquito nets and shared dinary-/1st-class seats cost US$5/15. De-
shower and toilet, and two larger rooms parture times for Taungoo are the same as
with air-con and attached shower. The din- for Yangon.
ing room downstairs serves good Chinese, Trains go from Thazi to Kalaw at 9am
Bamar and Indian Muslim food, including daily and take five hours to inch their way
fresh yogurt. The proprietors also invite trav- through the mountain passes.
ellers to bathe and rest upstairs while waiting Theres a US$1 fee to use the waiting
for onward passage, and can arrange bus and room at the Thazi train station at night-
train tickets. If you arrive by train and are time, whereas during the day its free. For
carrying heavy baggage, its worth taking a information on the train to Shwenyaung,
horse cart or hiring a porter, as the rest house the junction for Inle Lake, see p181.
is about 1km from the station.
KALAW
Getting There & Away kel;
BUS %081
The Thazi bus stop is a couple of hundred One of the few places in Myanmar to project a
metres from the train station just an backpacker vibe, Kalaw is 70km west of Taung-
empty building and a patch of dirt. Buses gyi, about halfway between it and Thazi. The
to Kalaw and Taunggyi cost K2500 (three town sits high on the western edge of the
hours) and K3500 (six hours) respectively; Shan Plateau, at an altitude of 1320m. Once
there are usually several departures from a popular hill station in British colonial days,
7am to 11am daily. Kalaws population of Shan, Indians, Mus-
Its possible to skip Meiktila when travel- lims, Bamar and Nepalis (Gurkhas retired
ling between Thazi and Mandalay, but there from British military service) rubs shoulders
are more buses to Mandalay that go through with fatigue-wearing soldiers and foreign
Meiktila. The simple solution is to get to tourists drawn by the cool climate and rugged
Meiktila by pick-up, then wait for a bus to mountain scenery. As recently as the 1970s
Mandalay (see p289 for information on buses there were American missionaries teaching
to Mandalay). If you reserve a seat you can in the local schools. Because of the British
wait for a TaunggyiMandalay bus to come colonial and missionary heritage, many locals
through Thazi; otherwise, the odds are that speak English. About 20,000 people live in
there wont be any seats. A pick-up between and around Kalaw. N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Meiktila and Thazi costs around K300. The size and breadth of the town is
deceptive since it sprawls up and over a
CAR number of hills only a portion of it is vis-
Pick-ups leave for Kalaw (K2500) regularly ible from the market area. A large military
throughout the day and into the early eve- base outside the town is an incongruous
ning. Its a windy, steep road, so for those presence in this sylvan setting of gnarled
with low comfort thresholds its worth pay- pines and bamboo groves. The surround-
ing extra to sit in the front. Pick-ups all ing mountains cater to all tastes and fitness
the way to Shwenyaung the junction for levels, from low-intensity half-day hikes to
Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) and Inle Lake four- or five-day trips to minority hill-tribe
and Taunggyi are infrequent. communities. The villages never really feel
Its possible to hire taxis in Thazi to take remote, which isnt necessarily a negative,
you to Kalaw (US$30), Nyaungshwe (US$45) but you may be surprised by the relatively
or Bagan (US$40). high level of development. Youll no doubt
be shown warm hospitality and offered tea
TRAIN and fruit harvested from the plantations
Ordinary-/1st-class seats from Thazi to Yan- that cover the towns steep slopes.
gon cost US$9/32. There are four evening
trains (6pm, 7.15pm, 8.15pm and 9.40pm); Sights & Activities
the earliest two are express and take 11 There are a few interesting temples to see
hours or more. in town. Perched on the hill overlooking
174 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W K a l a w www.lonelyplanet.com
0 400 m
KALAW 0 0.2 miles
A To Thazi (93km); B C D
Meiktila (115km)
Py
id 21
au
ng
su To Inle Lake (63km);
Rd Taunggyi (70km)
1 (Un 39
ion 4 2
Rd) 40 48 42 erchant Rd)
Rd (M
28 Kone The
37 31 22 16
26 24 45
15 46
ha Rd
33 47
Thirimingalar Rd
7 29 810 43
Ci
Merchant Rd
Aung Chant
rc
41 49
ul
Yatana Rd
25 To Shwenyaung
Station Rd
ar
36
Zatila Rd
Zeigyo Rd
23 (52km)
Rd
Nat Sein Rd
12
35
38 34
Aung Thabye Rd
14
13
2 5
44
3 18
9
17
Approximate Scale
To Nee Paya
Bamasakya Rd Train Station
(Bamboo Buddha;
500m)
3 1
20
30
R d
Oo Min
To Shwe Oo
Rd)
DRINKING
(Military Staff College Rd
Min Paya & Cave

Hi Snack & Drink........................41 C2
Sit U See Thakka Tho
4 Lachme Tea House.....................42 C1

6
Mi Thazu...................................43 D1
Myint Myat Caf.......................44 C2
Royal Tea Garden.......................45 C1
Tet Nay Win Teahouse...............46 C1
INFORMATION 32 ENTERTAINMENT
Army Hospital..............................1 B3 Cinema......................................47 C1
Hospital........................................2 C1
Police Station...............................3 C2 TRANSPORT
Post Office....................................4 B1 27 Buses to Bagan, Yangon &
Trunk Call Station Mandalay...............................48 C1
(Telephone Office)................. 5 C2 Buses to Taunggyi......................49 C2
SLEEPING
5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Dream Villa Motel Kalaw...........23 B2
Anglican Church..........................6 B4 Eastern Paradise Motel................24 B1
Aung Chan Naung Zedi................7 B1 Golden Kalaw Inn.......................25 B2
Aung Chang Tha Zedi..................8 C1 Golden Lilly Guest House............26 B1
Te
Baptist Church..............................9 B2 Kalaw Hotel................................27 B5

kk
ath
Central Market...........................10 C1 New Shine Hotel.........................28 B1

oR
Christ the King Church.............. 11 D6 Parami Motel..............................29 C1

d(
Dhamma Yon.............................12 C2 Pine Hill Resort Hotel.................30 B4

Un
Hsu Taung Pye Paya................(see 14) Pine Land Inn.............................31 C1

ive
rsi
Mosque.....................................13 C2 Pine View Inn.............................32 B4

ty
Myoma Kyaung.........................14 C2 Winner Hotel Kalaw...................33 C1 11

Rd
)
Royal Tribal Development

Society Shop.........................15 C1 EATING 19
Sam Trekking Guide...................16 C1 Everest Nepali Food Centre........34 C2
6 School........................................17 A2 Golden Wing Restaurant............35 C2
School........................................18 C2 Htin Yu Myaing Restaurant........36 C2
School....................................... 19 C6 Myanmar Flowers Restaurant.....37 B1
Sports Field................................20 C3 Sams Family Restaurant............38 C2
Thein Taung Paya......................21 C1 Thirigayhar Restaurant................39 B1
Top Trekking Guide....................22 C1 Thu Maung Restaurant..............40 C1
the ThaziTaunggyi road is Thein Taung around. There is Internet access, but server
Paya. In the town centre is a glittering speed is extremely slow.
stupa (Buddhist religious monument), Golden Kalaw Inn (%50311; 66 Nat Sein Rd; s/d
covered in gold-coloured mosaics, called US$4/6) The two-storey home next to the
Aung Chang Tha Zedi. Nearby is the dilapi- Golden Lilly is the Golden Kalaw, a friendly
dated Dhamma Yon, a two-storey temple; its hotel offering small, rather worn rooms
not particularly interesting in itself, but with a nice 2nd-floor balcony. Eddie, the
from upstairs you can get fair views of owner, leads informative treks.
the town, Dhamma Yanthi Paya (another Eastern Paradise Motel (%50087; 5 Thirimingalar
temple) and the ruins of Hsu Taung Pye Paya, Rd; s US$3-15, d US$6-20) This friendly motel on
now a field of crumbling stupas behind the a quiet street has clean rooms. More expen-
Dhamma Yon. Just west of town, Nee Paya sive rooms have private bathrooms; some
(also called Hnin Paya) features a gold- have satellite TVs and baths.
lacquered bamboo Buddha. Its about 20 Parami Motel (%50027; Merchant Rd; s US$3-6,
minutes away by car. The 300-year-old d US$6-10) A block from both the main road and
Shwe Oo Min Paya and Cave (h8am-8pm; admis- the market, Paramis cheapest rooms are in
sion free), containing Buddha statues, is a an attached two-storey annexe. More expen-
30-minute walk southwest of town. The sive rooms have private bathrooms, though
monastery on the grounds is an especially these arent especially inviting either.
scenic spot. Pine Land Inn (%50026; Union Rd; r without/with
Less than 1km southeast of the Kalaw bathroom per person US$2/3) Without doubt, this is
Hotel is Christ the King Church, a Catholic the shabbiest place in town. That said, this
church under the supervision of Father two-storey guesthouse right on the main
Paul. (Until he passed away in 2000, Father road through Kalaw does have one nice
Angelo Di Meo also supervised the church; wood-floored room with private bathroom
he was based in Myanmar from 1931.) A on the 2nd floor. Others with shared bath-
stone grotto built behind the church is room are very basic. The bare concrete en-
reputed to have curative powers. Mass is trance serves as both lobby and uninspiring
held daily at 6.30am; and also at 8am and breakfast nook.
4pm on Sunday.
MIDRANGE
Sleeping New Shine Hotel (%50028; [email protected]
Because of its natural appeal to the back- .mm; 21 Union Rd; s US$18-24, d US$24-36) These two
packer set, Kalaw is one of the few places modern buildings have a mix of rooms N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
in Myanmar with guesthouses to suit them. some motel-style, some with more char-
There are also several more modern ho- acter; some wicker, some tile. All rooms
tels catering to tour groups on or close to have private bathroom, while more expen-
the main road, and several more on the sive rooms have satellite TV and bathtub as
outskirts of town. The main road goes by well. Theres a nice brick-walled basement
several names, including Union Rd (Pyi- breakfast room, too.
daungsu Rd) and ThaziTaunggyi Hwy. Winner Hotel Kalaw (%50025; Union Rd; s/d
Air-con is superfluous in the cool mountain US$10/20; i) On the main road, the Winner,
air. During the low season (May to Octo- a three-storey Chinese-style hotel, has clean,
ber) discounts are widely available. no-frills rooms. The top-floor breakfast room
has good views of town, and the owner can
BUDGET help organise treks to villages in the area.
Golden Lilly Guest House (%50108; goldenlilly@ Pine View Inn (%50185; Tekkatho Rd; s/d US$10/15)
myanmar.com.mm; 5/88 Nat Sein Rd; s/d US$3/6; i) Overlooking a quiet street outside town,
Family owned and operated, this guest- near the Kalaw Hotel, this inn has a row
house is the best value in town. It has cosy of spacious rooms with hot-water shower,
and warm wood-finished rooms, each with desk and plenty of light. A tasty Bamar or
private bathroom. The owners brother, Western breakfast is included, along with
Robin, is a gentle and knowledgeable guide a good view.
who can explain the medicinal and nutri- Dream Villa Motel Kalaw (%50144; 5 Zatila Rd;
tional value of every berry, insect and leaf s/d US$20/24, larger s/d US$30/36) A bit overpriced
176 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W K a l a w www.lonelyplanet.com
TREKKING AROUND KALAW

Whether its a short day hike or a five-day journey, trekking is the main reason to come to Kalaw.
The range of territory open to foreigners seems to be expanding, and local guides are willing
to tailor itineraries to particular demands. With that said, certain routes get a fair bit of traffic
during the tourist high season and its not unusual to find yourself following in the well-trod
footsteps of another group.
The plateau near Kalaw is inhabited by people of the Palaung and Pa-O (Black Karen) tribes.
Intha, Shan, Taungthu, Taung-yo, Danu, Kayah, Danaw and Bamar people occupy the mountains
to the north and east. Development in the form of running water and electricity is coming
slowly but sporadically to villages in the area, and living conditions on the whole are not
as primitive as some might expect, thanks to UN- and government-sponsored projects. Con-
tinued exposure to foreigners walking the mountain footpaths or sleeping in village homes
has introduced a small element of the consumer economy in the form of children selling hats,
longyi (sarong-style lower garments) and bags, most made locally but some imported strictly
for the tourist trade.
Quality health care is a concern, but its better to give small cash gifts to the village health
fund rather than handing out medicines. Your guide will know whats appropriate and whats
not. Balloons, pencils, paper notebooks and ballpoint pens are also welcome. Usually the sayadaw
(chief abbot) of the village monastery, or the village head man, handles such donations. Village
elders prefer that any gifts intended for children be given to an adult rather than directly to the
children, as (like children everywhere) they are sharing challenged. Tribespeople come into town
on Kalaws market day, which comes around every five days.
Several nearby villages, such as Yar Thait and Tayaw, can be visited in half-day or whole-day
hikes. By and large the terrain isnt difficult mostly its a well-trodden dirt path over gentle
slopes. Some guides lead multiday trips; the two- to three-day trip (the duration depends on how
much you want to exert yourself ) to Inle Lake is easily the most popular. It's become standard
to have your heavy baggage transported to a hotel in Nyaungshwe for no extra charge, so you
need only carry very little. These trips commonly end in the hot springs near Kaung Daing on the
western shore of Inle Lake, before a boat transports the group to Nyaungshwe. Another popular
multiday hike is from Kalaw to Pindaya, with car transport back.
Licensed guides in Kalaw generally charge US$4 to US$6 for a day hike, and US$5 to US$8
per day for overnight treks. The cost generally includes food and lodging. Expect to hike for at
least six hours a day and cover about 15km.

One advantage of overnight treks is that by evening people are back home in the village after
spending a day tending the fields. Lodging is usually in long houses and occasionally in kyaung
(Burmese Buddhist monasteries). Be prepared for the lingering smoke of long-house cooking
fires. On the plus side, it keeps mosquitoes to a minimum.
Although its not part of the public record, perhaps because its not officially approved, it may
be possible to stay overnight at the Viewpoint, a guesthouse beside a beautifully scenic spot
atop a mountain. Most groups on day hikes stop here for lunch. Owned and operated by a Nepali
family, Viewpoints accommodation is bare bones no electricity, no running water but its
extremely peaceful. The owner, Motie, also cooks up fantastic meals (assorted vegetable curries
and rice). If you can arrange it, for around K1500 per person per day you get a foam bed with
plenty of blankets, and three meals.
All the licensed trekking guides in Kalaw can provide sleeping bags and mosquito nets.
Hikers need to be prepared with good shoes and warm clothing for the cool evenings. Trek-
king goes on year round, but expect muddy conditions during the rainy season (May/June
to November).
Staff at many of the hotels (eg Robin from the Golden Lilly, Eddie from the Golden Kalaw Inn)
and restaurants (eg the Everest Nepali Food Centre) can act as guides; a good number of Yangon-
based travel agencies can also arrange guides. Its quite easy, though, to simply show up in Kalaw
and make all the arrangements to leave the next day. Several reliable trekking-guide services
operate from small offices along the main road through Kalaw, just north of the market.
0 3 km
KALAW AREA TREKKING ROUTES 0 2 miles
To Inle
Lake
Chaung
Taung Pe Ah Lai
Gone Shwe
Min Bon
To Aungban
Shwe Min
Magwe
(8km);
Bon Paya Shwenyaung
(43km)
N
To Thazi
ga
(75km)
Ma
t
Kalaw
Ch
au
ng
Yar Thait (Palaung)
Tayaw (Palaung)
Viewpoint
Myin Saing
Kalaw Gone
Hin Kha Gone Reservoir Myin Daik
(Palaung) Myin Daik Train Station
(Danu)
Pan Tin
Gone
Approximate Scale
Inn Gaung
for Kalaw, the Dream Villa is nevertheless sive and tasty fried-vegetable dishes and
an attractive building, a few blocks from the standard Chinese and Bamar meat dishes
main thoroughfare. Theres a small, elegant were on offer, though the menu was in an
lobby with satellite TV, and the carpeted experimental phase. Service was extremely
rooms are maintained with care. attentive, to the point that an involun- N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Pine Hill Resort Hotel (%50078; fax 579 640; 151 tary flinch by one of the diners invariably
Oo Min Rd; bungalows s/d/tr US$36/42/67) This resort brought a waiter to the table. Candlelight
around 1km from the town centre has 32 and white tablecloths gave the place a ro-
bungalow-style wood-panelled rooms with mantic and elegant vibe.
TVs and private bathrooms. The prefabri- Thirigayhar Restaurant (Seven Sisters; %50216;
cated look of the place is a bit of a shame, Union Rd; dishes K2000; h till 10pm) The most
as the location overlooking the surrounding charming place to eat in Kalaw, this Shan-
hills is lovely. The hotel restaurant serves Chinese-Indian restaurant is in a distinctive
very good Bamar and Indian dishes. cottage on the main road. It serves a few
Those wishing to avoid any government- Western dishes, but the soups are especially
owned hotel should bypass the Kalaw Hotel, tasty. It often caters to package-tour groups,
which is set well behind the town. which explains the relatively high prices.
Everest Nepali Food Centre (Aung Chantha Rd;
Eating dishes K1000) Two blocks from the main road
For a town this size, Kalaw has an inordi- and just across from Sams, Everest is a fa-
nate number of interesting eating options, vourite as much for its backpacker feel as for
some with an Indian or Nepali flavour, and its tasty and reasonably priced curries, fresh
several teashops. juices and chapatis. Service tends to be slow,
Sams Family Restaurant (vegetable dishes K500) but a book and a shake help pass the time.
We were lucky enough to experience Sams Thu Maung Restaurant (Union Rd; dishes K1500)
inaugural meal. An assortment of inexpen- The Thu Maung, in a two-storey building on
178 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W Au n g b a n www.lonelyplanet.com
the main road, looks more established than to US$25. For information on travel to
other places in town maybe its the air Aungban and Pindaya, see p180.
of authority given off by its many official- Its possible to take the train from Thazi
looking patrons. It does an above-average or Shwenyaung to Kalaw; it takes around 4
chicken and cashews. hours from either. The fare is US$3. Either
Myanmar Flowers Restaurant (chicken dishes way, its a scenic, if slow, trip. Three trains
K1500) This restaurant, near the Aung Chang leave Kalaw for Shwenyaung at 8.30am,
Naung Zedi, four blocks west of the market, 10.45am and 3pm daily.
has a rock-and-roll flavour inside well, To return to Yangon, Mandalay or Bagan
guitars decorate the walls and theres a its possible to book a seat on one of the
small stage and outdoor seating in good Taunggyi express buses with air-con (about
weather. It offers Bamar, Chinese, Indian K5000 for each destination). Theres also the
and Western set menus (K2500), and does usual MandalayYangon train connection
excellent spring rolls. via Thazi (see p366 and p367).
Also recommended are Htin Yu Myaing
(Pineland) Restaurant (dishes K1000), a block south AUNGBAN
of the central market, which serves good ea;='pn'"
Chinese and Bamar fare; and the Golden This small highway town is a transport junc-
Wing Restaurant, just south of Merchant tion for cargo and passengers travelling be-
Rd, which grills up meats for locals. tween Thazi and Taunggyi, north to Pindaya
or south to Loikaw, the capital of Kayah
Drinking State. As such, Aungbans main function is
Hi Snack & Drink (htill late) Down a bottle of to feed and fuel; among Shan State truck
beer with the locals in this narrow little all- drivers its also infamous for its brothels.
wood bar a block west of the market. Im- As elsewhere in Myanmar, AIDS is a seri-
promptu guitar concerts are not uncommon. ous concern.
Myint Myat Caf (Zeigyo Rd) Next to the po- There is little of substance to the town
lice station, on the road leading south from itself, except when the market is held (every
town, this caf is popular with students and five days). For seekers of Buddhist wisdom,
soldiers from the nearby base. the Taungpulu Meditation Monastery is a little
Most teashops in town are Nepali op- east of town off the highway.
erated, and serve chapati, tea and raksi
(Nepali-style home-made liquor). Teashops Getting There & Away
near the market: See p180 for information on transport from

Lachme Teahouse (Merchant Rd) Pindaya and Kalaw to Aungban. If youre
Mi Thazu (Merchant Rd) heading east to Nyaungshwe, its possible
Royal Tea Garden (Station Rd) to catch one of the many rickety minibuses
Tet Nay Win Teahouse (Zeigyo Rd) that pass through Aungban on their way to
Taunggyi (K1500).
Daily buses from Yangon to Kalaw (K7000, PINDAYA
15 hours) leave from Yangons Highway p='"ty
bus terminal. Yangon-bound buses depart- %081
ing from Taunggyi pass through Kalaw in The road north from Aungban to Pindaya
the evening. passes through a bucolic pastoral setting
Buses for Kalaw (around K2500) leave thats like a Whistler landscape the per-
Thazi in the morning. Taunggyi-bound fect middle American or European coun-
buses from either Meiktila or Bagan pass tryside. Youll pass groups of Myanmar
through Kalaw, though you may have to people wearing wide-brimmed sun hats
pay the full fare to the final destination. and hunched over rice and potato fields,
Travel time is about three hours. and the small Pa-O and Danu villages of
A bus from Shwenyaung (the junction Pwehla and Ji-Chanzi. Easily visited from
for Inle Lake) to Kalaw takes three hours Kalaw on a day trip, Pindaya is best known
and costs K3000. To charter a vehicle to ei- for its Buddha-filled limestone caves, its
ther Thazi or Shwenyaung will cost US$20 picturesque Boutalake Lake and one of the
www.lonelyplanet.com T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W Au n g b a n 179
regions more interesting markets, which Its a long walk from the lake to the foot
sells everything from pancake-like snacks of the cliff containing the caves; if youve
to gnarled fish and cooked snakes. chartered a jeep or car from Kalaw or
Pindaya itself is a centre for the Burmese- Taunggyi, make sure that youre driven all
speaking Taung-yo people. The towns sym- the way up to the cliff. Travel from town to
bol is a pin-gu (spider). According to leg- the foot of the cliffs costs K1000 by horse
end, seven princesses bathing in the lake cart. A 200-step stairway leads to the cave
took refuge in the caves during a storm, and entrance, or you can take the new lift to the
were imprisoned by a giant spider. Lucky entrance for K100.
for them, a prince strolling nearby heard From a temple complex built along the
their pleas for help, killed the spider and front of the ridge you can view nearby
freed them from the cave. Boutalake Lake and the ruins of Shwe Oo Min
Local handicrafts include Shan paper and Paya, a cluster of low stupas just below the
parasols made from mulberry bark. There ridge.
are two paper- and umbrella-making workshops
a few minutes drive from the cave entrance. PADAH-LIN CAVES
One of these workshops, Nam Cherry, de- pd:"l='"gU
monstrates the step-by-step process and Northwest of Pindaya, near the village of
sells hand-painted umbrellas (US$1) among Ye-Ngan, is the most important prehis-
other interesting objects. Try your hand at a toric site in Myanmar: the Padah-Lin Caves
small pottery workshop down a side road near (also known as Badalin, or Badut Hlaing
the Pindaya Inle Inn for US$3. Chameleon Cave). The interior of one of the
Day and overnight treks to surrounding caves is decorated with the remains of very
Danu, Pa-O, Palaung and Taung-yo villages old paintings estimates extend to 11,000
can be organised at the Golden Cave (p180) years of animal and human subjects, not
or Conqueror Hotel (p180) for about US$10 unlike Neolithic cave paintings in Europe.
per person per day. Some visitors reckon that these caves, which
were discovered in 1969, are more atmos-
Sights pheric than the heavily touristed Pindaya
PINDAYA CAVES Caves.
p='"tygU To get here youll have to charter a 4WD
A strange and somewhat kitschy mix of the from the direction of Mandalay or from
artificial and natural and the commercial southern Shan State. Coming from the
and holy, the Pindaya Caves, in a limestone south, a visit to the caves can be added to N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
ridge overlooking the lake, are announced a Pindaya trip from Kalaw or Taunggyi for
for miles around by the templelike struc- about an extra K5000 per vehicle. From Ye-
tures covering the ramp and lift to the Ngan a rough track leads several kilometres
entrance. Once inside its difficult not to southwest to Yebok village. The two caves are
succumb to Buddha fatigue, as over 8000 a little over 1km west of Yebok on a foot-
Buddha images made from alabaster, teak, path. If coming from Mandalay, take the
marble, brick, lacquer and cement have turn-off 81km south of Mandalay near the
been arranged over the centuries to form a town of Kume on the YangonMandalay
sea of serene faces in the labyrinthine cave Hwy. Drive east for around 35km until you
chambers. Small plaques below most ad- reach the Kinda Dam. After a short boat
vertise the names and nationalities of the ride to the other side of the dam, youll ap-
donors. proach the caves along a jungle trail.
Some of the smaller side chambers are
accessible only on hands and knees, and Festivals & Events
you may come across people practising Beginning on the full moon of Tabaung
meditation. Although many areas within (February/March), Pindaya hosts a colourful
the caves are illuminated by electric lights, paya pwe (pagoda festival) at Shwe Oo Min.
take care on the slippery paths. In one cor-
ner of the cave stand three perspiring Bud- Sleeping
dhas sitting images that stay wet because There are several nice places to stay in
of condensation in the damp cave. Pindaya, though accommodation in both
180 T HA Z I T O I N L E V I A K A L A W H e h o www.lonelyplanet.com
Kalaw and Nyaungshwe is less expensive the market are U Aseik, Tip Top Restaurant
and generally better value. and Teik Sein Restaurant.
Golden Cave Hotel (%40227; s US$15-25, d US$20-
30) Extremely friendly and warm, the Gold- Getting There & Away
en Caves modest reception and breakfast From Kalaw it costs K150 to get to Aungban
area belies the charm of the wooden rooms and another K550 to get to Pindaya by public
in the two-storey annexe. All rooms have transport. It can be difficult to find buses or
private balconies, some with views of the pick-ups later in the day, especially between
cave entrance. More expensive rooms have Aungban and Pindaya, so leave early in the
a TV and a fridge. This is the best place to morning and allow a whole day for the trip.
arrange treks to nearby villages. The first pick-up from Pindaya to Aungban
Pindaya Inle Inn (%448 1311, in Yangon %01- leaves from the market area at 6am. Theres
211 226; Mahabandoola Rd; s/d US$35/40, chalets US$70; one bus per day from Taunggyi to Pindaya
i) The first hotel you see when you enter (K1500), at noon; the same bus travels in the
Pindaya from the south, this inn isnt as opposite direction at 8am the next day.
conveniently located as the other hotels, Its much more convenient to hire a car
but its posh brick-and-stone little chalets, and driver in Kalaw for about US$15 to
with fireplaces, desks, satellite TV and large US$20 to make the day trip to Pindaya. You
bathrooms, are delightful. Each has a quaint can also hire a car to take you from Kalaw
porch arranged around a small garden. Its to Pindaya, have it wait for a couple of hours
owned and operated by Inle Princess Resort while you take in the caves and have lunch in
on Inle Lake. town, and then continue on to Nyaungshwe
Conqueror Hotel (%448 1211, in Yangon %01- and Inle Lake. This should cost about US$30
256 623; www.conquerorhotel.com; s/d US$50/60; or the kyat equivalent for the whole day.
is) These large bamboo bungalows with Its also possible to do the trip in the
satellite TV and private porches are laid reverse direction or as a long day trip out of
out in attractive, landscaped grounds. Some Nyaungshwe. The actual road time is about
bungalows have cave views. The large pa- 1 hours from Kalaw to Pindaya, and three
vilion building houses a restaurant serving hours or more from Pindaya to Nyaung-
Chinese and Bamar cuisine. In the Singong shwe. Add waiting time (which can be con-
Quarter of town, the hotel caters largely to siderable) in Aungban and Shwenyaung if
tour groups. Treks can be arranged here. you go by public transport.
Myit Phyar Zaw Gji Hotel (in Taunggyi%22158; 317
Zaytan Quarter; s/d US$12/20) Conveniently located HEHO

next to the market, this modern-looking but hEhui"
rather nondescript three-storey hotel has The airstrip north of Heho is the gateway
16 standard rooms with attached hot-water for many to the Inle Lake and Kalaw area.
bathroom, and five larger superior rooms About halfway between Aungban and Shwe-
with fridge. Some have good views of Bouta- nyaung, which is the junction for the road
lake Lake right across the street. The dining south to Nyaungshwe and Inle Lake, Heho
room serves mostly Chinese food. itself is just another highway town. Air
Mandalay, Yangon Airways and Myanma
Eating Airways fly regularly between Yangon,
In addition to the restaurants mentioned Mandalay and Heho; newcomer Bagan Air
below, you can fill up on snacks, both exotic offers direct flights from Bagan (p187).
and mundane, in the market. Heho has a dusty market area just off the
Just across the street from the market, Kyan highway that hosts the largest of the five-day
Lite Restaurant (dishes K1000) has long banquet- markets in the southern area of Shan State.
style tables and an English menu featuring
good Chinese fare. Not far from the market, SHWENYAUNG
on the road leading to the cave, is the sur- ere;='
prisingly modern Happy Tea House, which Shwenyaung is the transfer point for those
has snacks, tea and coffee. leaving Nyaungshwe to catch a bus to Kalaw,
Other restaurants serving inexpensive Mandalay, Bagan or Yangon. Its also where
Bamar and Shan food within a few blocks of most travellers heading to Nyaungshwe must
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E 181
hop off their Taunggyi-bound bus or pick-

up in order to catch a taxi to Nyaungshwe.
Theres no longer any accommodation in
INLE LAKE
Shwenyaung for foreigners, but then again a='"el"aui='
theres no reason to spend the night here. Inle Lake is 22km long, roughly 11km wide,
The Pan Za Lat Teashop, situated right at 875m above sea level and a complete mi-
the Heho-Nyaungshwe-Taunggyi junction, rage. Facts notwithstanding, when you first
is a convenient place to wait for transport, encounter the lake its placid flatness in
sip some tea and sort out your next move stark contrast to the peaks on either side it
away from the touts, wholl descend upon seems like a real-life Atlantis where the plug
you as soon as you alight from the bus. has been partially pulled and you must hop
in a boat to gossip with a neighbour only a
Getting There & Away few metres away. The lakeshore and lake is-
CAR, PICK-UP & TAXI lands are home to 17 villages on stilts, which
Taxis ply the 11km road between Shwenya- are mostly inhabited by the Intha people.
ung and Nyaungshwe (K4000). If its late The lake doesnt really have a shoreline
after 6pm drivers in Shwenyaung charge you cant walk directly around it. The water
relatively extortionate prices. Its possible to gets shallower and the tangled hyacinths
find a freelancer on a motorcycle for a cheaper and marsh paddies get denser until the ob-
rate (though no helmets are provided). stacle course becomes unnavigable and you
From Nyaungshwe, one option is to wait reach solid land.
by the side of the road near the monument Like the Shan, Mon and Bamar, the Intha
just north of the market. Some empty taxis are Buddhist; there are around 100 Buddhist
on their way to collect passengers with res- kyaung around the lake and perhaps 1000
ervations in Shwenyaung are willing to pick stupas. The Inle style of religious archi-
up foreign tourists for only K500 because tecture and Buddhist sculpture is strongly
its just extra money theyre already going Shan-influenced.
in your direction. The hard-working Intha are famous for
Pick-ups ferry passengers back and forth propelling their flat-bottomed boats by
between Shwenyaung and Nyaungshwe standing at the stern on one leg and wrap-
(K300) from 5am to around 4pm, though ping the other leg around the oar. This
they leave only when full. strange leg-rowing technique offers relief
to the arms which are also used for row-
TRAIN ing during the long paddles from one end N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
You can get all the way to Shwenyaung by of the lake to another. It also enables the
train, but its time-consuming. From Yan- rower to better see the kyun myaw (float-
gon or Mandalay the programme would be ing islands) and beda (water hyacinth). Its
to take one of the YangonMandalay ex- sometimes necessary to stand up to plot a
press trains and disembark at Thazi. See path around the obstacles and to spot fish.
p367 for timetable details. Although diesel motors are becoming more
The train from Thazi to Shwenyaung and more common, leg rowers, fully aware
(ordinary/1st class US$4/9, eight to nine of their tourist-poster appeal, will immedi-
hours) is rather slow, but the route is very ately switch from conventional rowing to the
picturesque, and having the run of a carriage leg-power method upon sighting a boatload
can be more comfortable than sitting in the of camera-carrying foreigners.
back of a cramped pick-up, especially on The entire lake region is contained in the
mountain curves. Its a spectacular journey municipal area of Nyaungshwe and sup-
through the Shan Mountains and local vil- ports a population of 130,000 comprising
lages, on a partially zigzagging railway line. Intha, Shan, Pa-O (Taungthu), Taung-yo,
A train leaves Thazi at 9am and arrives Danu, Kayah, Danaw and Bamar people.
in Shwenyaung between 5pm and 6pm. The township of the same name sits north
Three trains leave Shwenyaung (at 8.30am, of the lake and is accessed by road from
10.30am and 2pm; US$4) and arrive in Thazi Shwenyaung or from the lake via a long,
around nine hours later. You can also disem- narrow channel. Around 70,000 people live
bark in Kalaw from any of these trains. on the shores and islands of the lake.
182 I N L E L A K E H i s t o r y & C u l t u re www.lonelyplanet.com
The industrious villagers inhabiting the lages (especially Ywama and Heya at the
lake region support themselves by growing a southern end of Inle Lake) weave Shan-style
wide variety of flowers, vegetables and fruit shoulder bags and silk Zinme (Chiang Mai-
year round. They also grow rice, especially at style) longyi on wooden hand looms. Using
the northern end of the lake around Nyaung- raw silk from China, these weavers produce
shwe. Many of these crops are cultivated on more silk garments than anywhere in the
floating islands, where marsh, soil and water country apart from Amarapura. When they
hyacinths have combined to form incred- arent busy fishing or farming, the men of
ibly fertile solid masses that are staked to Inle produce silver and brassware as well as
the lake bottom with bamboo poles. Among pottery and lacquerware.
the islands and peninsulas thus formed is During January and February the nights
a network of canals that provide the main and mornings in the lake area are cold, so
avenues of transportation for the Intha. bring socks and a sweater.
Using cone-shaped nets stretched tautly
over wood and bamboo frames, Intha fish- HISTORY & CULTURE
ermen harvest nga-hpein (a type of carp) Both culturally and linguistically separate
and other kinds of fish. Women in the vil- from their Shan neighbours, the Intha are
0 4 km
INLE LAKE 0 2 miles
To To

Taunggyi Shwenyaung
(30km) Bawrithat
(11km)
To Heho (8km); Shwe Yan Pyay
Kalaw (50km); Nyaungshwe

Pindaya (68km); Na Baung
Nat Shrine
Thazi (142km) Paung Pane Kyaukhpyugyi Paya
Nanthe Hti Han Swe

Taung Bo Gyi
Trekking Nyaung Wan Kyauk Daing
Route Sizon

Hot Spring Naung
Loi Kaw Kham Approximate Scale
Naung Ka
To Kalaw Tehe
(50km) Kaung Daing In Oo
Hupin Hotel

Inle Khaung Inle Princess Resort
Trekking Daing Village
Mo
Route Resort Pon Tae Pon Swe Pan

un
Lin Kin Maing Thauk Wong ya

tai
Kanywa
Loilem
nR
Inleh Bo Teh

ang
Pwe Sar Kone

e
Ine Ne
Kyay Sar Kone Pebin Inywa Kan Tan

Tha Pye Gone

Shanywa
Inle Naung Lee
Lake Thitseinbin
Trail

Thandaung Tha Le Oo Ham Pho
Nga Hpe
Chaung Kela
Walking
Golden Island Ham Se

Cottages 2
Nyaung
Zayatkyi Win Kyaung

Dag Daw Oo
Tone L Hto
Ywama Shwe Inn Tha Ka Taung
(Floating Market) Floating Resort Ti Htat
Ingyingon Moe

Nyaung Tha Lay Kaung Mai Law
Ohak Nam Hu
Phaung Ma Gyi Gone
Indein Daw Oo Hti N Kakku

Kyibawkon Paya Dat Gyi Naung Kae
Shwe Inn Yetha Nam Pan Naung Ya Sein
Thein Golden Island Kon Lon

In Paw Kone Cottages 1
U Daung Jay Paw (Silk Weavers)
Kan Ta Pan Hti Plun
Kyaung & Khone
Meditation Naung Taw

Maing Pyo
Centre Helon Kyauk Ta Lone
Saug Pho

Hsisone
Magyizeik
Taung Tho
Kyaung
Chaing Kham
To Sankar; Kyauk Taung

www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E I n f o r m a t i o n 183
thought to have migrated to this area from comfortable guesthouses and restaurants
Dawei on the Tanintharyi (Tenasserim) pe- specialising in spaghetti and pancakes.
ninsula in southern Myanmar.
According to one story, two brothers Information
from Dawei came to Nyaungshwe in 1359 Yangon Airways and Air Mandalay have a
to serve a Nyaungshwe sao pha (sky lord, small office on Yone Gyi Rd, and virtually
a hereditary chieftain of the Shan people). every guesthouse can help arrange flights
The latter was so pleased with the hard- and bus tickets. Apart from the options
working demeanour of the Dawei brothers listed below, several hotels offer Internet
that he asked them to invite 36 more fam- access to guests.
ilies from Dawei; purportedly, all the Intha Century Ticket Retail & Wholesale Centre
around Inle Lake are descended from these (%29061; Yone Gyi Rd) This recommended, friendly
migrant families. Another theory says that place can arrange boating excursions, hikes and trips to
the Intha migrated from the Mon region in other destinations, as well as onward transportation.
the 18th century to avoid wars between the Comet Travel & Internet Caf (%29126; inlay
Thais and the Bamar. [email protected]; Yone Gyi Rd). An
alternative to Century Ticket and also recommended. Has
INFORMATION a few computers with reliable Internet connections.
You pay the compulsory entry fee (US$3) to Inle Blooms Global Online Information Bar
enter the Inle Lake zone at Myanmar Travels & (Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; per hr K3000; h9am-midnight) A
Tours (MTT; Chaung Rd, Nyaungshwe; h7am-4pm) or veritable oasis for the email starved. There are five computers,
at one of the hotels or guesthouses around a nice coffee shop and occasional Hotmail access.
town. Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Chaung (Strand) Rd)
The same office that collects tourists dollars (US$3) for
FESTIVALS & EVENTS the lake also provides maps of the area and sometimes the
September and October are among the best final word regarding flight schedules and fares.
times of the year to visit Inle Lake. The cere-
monial Phaung Daw Oo (see p190), in which Sights & Activities
four golden Buddha images are ferried MUSEUM OF SHAN CHIEFS
around the lake in a royal barge, lasts for Housed in a large teak-and-brick mansion
almost three weeks in late September or in the northeastern part of town, this mu-
early October. Its closely followed by Thad- seum (Yaunghwe Haw Museum; Third St; admission US$2;
ingyut, when the Intha and the Shan dress h9.30am-3.30pm Tue-Sun) was the haw (palace)
in new clothes and fervently celebrate the of the 33rd and last Shan sao pha, Sao Shwe N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
end of Waso (Buddhist Lent). They are so Thaike. Thaike, who became the first presi-
religious that its not unusual for families dent of Myanmar in 1948, was imprisoned
to spend all of their meagre savings during when Ne Win came to power (see p42) and
this one annual event. died in jail. The museum is the best surviv-
ing example of a Shan-style palace since the
NYAUNGSHWE 1991 demolition of the haw sao pha (Shan
e;='er lords palace) in Kengtung. Many of the
Laid-back Nyaungshwes choice accommo- rooms contain displays of Shan furniture and
dation and diverse activities from leisurely royal costumes. Most impressive is the huge
boat rides to strenuous hikes combine to teak-floored throne-and-audience hall in the
throw off the itineraries of many travel- north wing, behind the front building.
lers who extend their stays here. During the
tourist high season, Nyaungshwe (Golden SHRINES, MONASTERIES & STUPAS
Banyan Tree, also called Yaungwhe), which The oldest temple in town, Yadana Man Aung
is 3.5km from the northern end of the lake, Paya, is worth visiting for its unique step-
can seem overrun with foreigners. This isnt spired stupa. Look for the you will be old
necessarily a bad thing for the many locals and you will be sick figures in glass cases
who profit from their presence. Besides in one of the shrine buildings.
Kalaw, this town is one of the few places in There are several good-sized monasteries
the country to exude a backpacker vibe, evi- in the central and southeastern parts of town,
denced by the number of inexpensive but including Kan Gyi Kyaung, Shwe Gu Kyaung and
184 I N L E L A K E N y a u n g s h w e www.lonelyplanet.com
0 100 m
NYAUNGSHWE 0 0.1 miles
To Shwe Yaunghwe
A B Kyaung (1km); C D
Shwenyaung (11km);
64 Taunggyi (31km);
Heho (35km); Airport (35km);
Kalaw (64km); Kakku (73km)
Kyauktein Rd
18
17 40
1 Third St
47
42
1 59
51 High
63

School
33 56 14
Canal
23 22
35 55
To Hot 44 9 60 49 58 34
Springs Yone Gyi Rd
61 65 38
2 11
45
26
Rd
16 28
36
54 School
Main
43
2 46 48
52 30 Phaungdaw Seiq Rd
62 53
25
20
l
YWA 3 24 27
ana
Middle
THA School
Li C
12 8 13
ng
21 57
7 32
Mo
Sports
10
Field 37
Phaungdawpyan Rd
(Main Canal)
39
(Strand Rd)
Middle
School
29 50 15
6 5
Myawady Rd
Nan Chaung
Chaung Rd
19
3
To Inle Lake To Nanthe;

(3.5km) Kyaukhpyugyi Paya
41
31 Mingal
4 a Rd
INFORMATION Sri Jagdish Hindu Temple......................22 C1 EATING

Air Mandalay Office.............................(see 9) Stupa....................................................23 C1 Aroma Restaurant................................ 45 A2
Bank........................................................1 B1 Stupas..................................................24 B2 Big Drum Restaurant............................46 A2
Comet Travel & Internet Caf.................2 B2 Stupas..................................................25 B2 Eden Teashop.......................................47 C1
Golden Island Cottages Office................3 A2 Township Office.................................. 26 D2 Full Moon Restaurant...........................48 A2
Hospital..................................................4 B3 Yadana Man Aung Paya.......................27 B2 Golden Kite Restaurant.........................49 C2
Inle Blooms Global Yangon Kyaung...................................28 C2 Htoo Htoo Aung Chinese & Shan Food..50 B3
Online Information Bar...................... 5 A3 Hu Pin Restaurant.................................51 B1
Moe Moe's Boat & Bicycle......................6 A3 SLEEPING La Libellude Restaurant........................52 A2
MTT Office............................................7 A2 Aquarius Inn.........................................29 A3 Miss Nyaungshwe Restaurant...............53 A2
Telephone Office....................................8 B2 Bright Hotel..........................................30 A2 Pancake Kingdom.................................54 A2
Yangon Airways Office..........................9 C2 Four Sisters Inn.....................................31 A3 Shanland Restaurant.............................55 B1
Gypsy Inn.............................................32 A2 Shwe Inlay Bakery.................................56 B1
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hu Pin Hotel Shwe Pye Soe Restaurant.....................57 B2
Handicrafts...........................................10 A3 Nyaungshwe..................................33 B1 Smiling Moon Restaurant.....................58 C2
Hlaing Gu Kyaung................................11 C2 Inle Inn.................................................34 D2 Unique Superb Food House..................59 C1
Independence Monument....................12 A2 Joy Hotel..............................................35 A1
Kan Gyi Kyaung...................................13 C2 May Guest House.................................36 C2 ENTERTAINMENT
Mingala Market....................................14 B1 Mingalar Hotel......................................37 B3 Puppet Theatre.....................................60 C2
Monastery............................................15 C3 Nanda Wunn Hotel..............................38 D2
Monastery............................................16 B2 Nawng Kham/Little Inn........................39 A3 TRANSPORT
Monument............................................17 B1 Paradise Hotel & Restaurant.................40 C1 Boat Landing........................................61 A2
Museum of Shan Chiefs........................18 D1 Primrose Hotel......................................41 B3 Boat Landing........................................62 A2
Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung....................19 D3 Remember Inn......................................42 C1 Bus/Pick-up Stop..................................63 B1
Shwe Gu Kyaung.................................20 C2 Teak Wood Guest House.....................43 A2 Pick-ups to Shwenyaung.......................64 B1
Shwe Zali Paya.....................................21 A2 Viewpoint Hotel...................................44 A2 Pick-ups to Taunggyi............................65 A2
Yangon Kyaung. On the southeastern outskirts Less than 1km north of the town en-
of town, the ruin of an old Shan monastery trance, an old 18th- or 19th-century mon-
called Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung originally astery called Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung features
built by the Nyaungshwe sao pha features a venerable wooden thein (ordination hall)
a set of slender whitewashed Shan stupas with unique oval windows. A long, low, rec-
and some very old plinths. The complex has tangular brick-and-stucco pahto (shrine) on
been transformed into a kammahtan kyaung the premises has Buddha images of various
(meditation monastery). ages inside.
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E N y a u n g s h w e 185
A short walk south of town along the

eastern side of the main channel leads to the WARNING
small but atmospheric ruins of Kyaukhpyugyi Its not unusual for taxi drivers and other
Paya, next to the Intha village of Nanthe. Sur- self-appointed guides to direct you away
rounded by brick-and-stucco devas (celes- from the hotel you request and take you to
tial beings), chinthe (half-lion, half-dragon the hotel where they receive a commission.
guardian deities) and stupas is a huge sitting In order to convince you that they only have
Buddha, said to be 700 years old. your happiness in mind, theyll try some
common excuses: the owner died, the hotel
MINGALA MARKET closed, it has a new owner and is now dirty
The main municipal zei (market), near the etc. Be firm, and whatever you do, check in
towns northern entrance, is busiest in the yourself. Otherwise youll probably be pay-
morning, when vendors congregate to sell ing a few extra bucks for commission.
their wares. In addition to mountains of
fresh produce, Shan noodles and other local
products, there are a few stalls selling pottery Teakwood Guest House (%29250; teakwoodhtl@
and textiles. myanmar.com.mm; s US$4-10, d US$9-20; i) This guest-
house three blocks east of the canal has some
BOAT TRIPS of the most attractive rooms in the area. The
Nyaungshwe is the place where most vis- five or so in the new annexe have comfortable
itors arrange boat trips around the lake. For beds and wooden furnishings, but the real
more details, see p191. draw is the bathrooms, which are covered
in small stones. Economy rooms in the old
Sleeping building are as basic as they come. There are
Many of the budget and midrange guest- two open-air lounge and dining areas one
houses in Nyaungshwe are family owned for the old building and another very beauti-
and operated. Most offer low-season dis- ful teak one for the newer, more expensive
counts, but at any time of year most rates rooms. The woman who owns and runs the
are open to negotiation because of the fairly Teakwood with her familys help is an asser-
intense competition. All room rates include tive saleswoman; its best to shop around in
breakfast. In addition, most hotels and terms of trips offered through here.
guesthouses act as travel agents. Theyre able Primrose Hotel (%29150; 40 Mingala Rd; s/d US$10/
to book bus tickets and flights, and arrange 15) From the outside, this hotel in the south-
boat trips, hikes and even a traditional My- ern part of town near the Mong Li Canal ap- N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
anmar massage (US$2 to US$4 per hour). pears slightly worn, with a corrugated iron
Temperatures are mild to cool at night, roof and peeling paint, but the interior is a
making air-con unnecessary. different story. The large all-wood rooms,
each with their own private bathroom and
BUDGET porch, are nicer than youd expect for the
Aquarius Inn (%29352; 2 Phaung Daw Pyan Rd; s/d money.
US$6/12) The excellent-value Aquarius has Inle Inn (%29016; Yone Gyi Rd; s/d US$8/12) This
several cosy and warm all-wood rooms. In inn on the eastern side of town, one of the
a small compound directly across the street oldest privately owned inns in the country,
from the Little Inn, it is quiet and friendly is well managed and quiet. Spick-and-span
and serves an excellent breakfast in its little rooms in the bamboo bungalows are first
restaurant. It also has a good collection of rate. Theres a pleasant sitting area in the
foreign-language books on loan for guests. garden out the back. A Shan dinner and
May Guest House (%29417; 85 Myawady Rd; s/d puppet show is available on request.
US$6/12) Look for the small yellow building Viewpoint Hotel (%29062; s/d US$7/14) This
opposite Hlaing Gu Kyaung monastery, hotels unique location just over the bridge
down a quiet side street. Snug rooms at on the other side of the canal is a mixed
this guesthouse are squeaky clean and very blessing. While its fun to sleep in a bun-
good value. Each has a hot-water shower galow over the water, early-morning boat
and a small veranda. An excellent breakfast traffic can be an annoyance. The thatched
is included. bamboo bungalows arent especially well
maintained, and the water pressure is unre- Rooms have a fan, a hot-water shower and
liable, but after an afternoon on your own good beds.
small balcony youll easily forgive these has-
sles. An excellent breakfast is served on the MIDRANGE
roof of an attached building, where there Nanda Wunn Hotel (%22540; nandawunn@myanmar
are even better views of town. .com.mm; 80 Yone Gyi Rd; bungalows s US$18-20, d US$20-
Bright Hotel (%29137; 53 Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; 25; i) The Nanda Wunn, a few blocks east
s/d US$5/8) Though the rooms at the Bright of the market in a quiet compound, isnt
Hotel are large, the mismatched furniture much pricier than some of the budget ac-
means its unlikely to win any awards in commodation, but the larger, superior bun-
interior design. Its a fairly modern house galows with high ceilings, individual porches
with several wings, one of which contains a and bathrooms with tubs deserve the few
large family room that sleeps at least four. extra bucks. Traditional Myanmar massage
Nawng Kham (Little Inn; %29195; Phaung Daw is available.
Pyan Rd; s/d US$5/10) Opposite Shwe Zali Paya, Paradise Hotel & Restaurant (%22009; 40 Third St;
this inn has seven basic carpeted rooms ar- s US$22-25, d US$25-30; a) Near the Museum of
ranged around a pleasant garden with at- Shan Chiefs, this hotel in a large compound
mospheric views of the nearby stupa. is popular with French package tourists.
Joy Hotel (%29083; Jetty Rd; s/d US$5/9) On a Standard rooms in the two-storey motel-like
narrow, quiet canal west of the market, the building are not especially good value, but
Joy Hotel feels pleasantly isolated at least the individual bungalows with wicker fur-
from the other guesthouses. A small sitting niture and private porches are more appeal-
area overlooking the canal makes up for the ing. All rooms have hot-water shower, fridge,
fairly basic (but clean) rooms. There are TV and air-con. The staff is quite helpful
cheaper rooms with shared bathroom in the with travel and air-ticket arrangements.
two-storey house. A few of the larger rooms Hu Pin Hotel Nyaungshwe (%29291; hupin-hotel@
have a hot-water shower and a toilet. mptmail.net.mm; 66 Kan Tha Quarter; s/d US$30/36; a) A
Gypsy Inn (Chaung Rd; s US$5-8, d US$10-15) More Chinese-style five-storey behemoth (well, for
modern and motel-like than other places this small village), Hu Pin wont make you
in this category, the Gypsy Inn is still good feel at home, though it does have large attach-
value. A few of the higher-priced rooms ed air-con rooms with hot-water shower, TV
have balconies, though proximity to the and fridge. The hotel is a block west of Min-
canal means your morning wake-up call is gala Market. All rates include breakfast at
the obnoxious revving of motorboats. the rooftop restaurant or around the corner
Remember Inn (%29257; remember@myanmar at the Hu Pin Restaurant, which is owned by
.com.mm; Third St; s US$4-10, d US$8-12; i) Popular the same group.
with backpackers and the taxi drivers who
transport them (the Remember seems to Eating
have the commission system wired), this The town seems to be reaching saturation
inn is not as charming as the competition, point in terms of pancake and pasta joints,
though the English-speaking staff can ad-
dress all travel-related questions and needs.
The cheapest bamboo furnished rooms are INLE OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
actually the best value, while the higher- Kakku Thousands of stupas lined up
priced concrete rooms in the cavernous like plants in a field (p192)
high-rise section of the hotel are large but
unattractive. Theres a restaurant and sit- Sankar An ancient wall in a lake far
ting area with satellite TV. Burmese mas- south of Inle (p193)
sage is available for US$2 per hour. The inn hot springs Youll need a soak after the
is opposite the Museum of Shan Chiefs. bike ride (p189)
Four Sisters Inn (%29190; 105 Nan Pan Quarter; s/d trek to Kalaw It beats the bus (p176)
US$7/12) The proprietors here have expanded
their restaurant business into a quiet guest- Ta-Eh Gu This cave in the mountains
house between the canal and a large rice east of the lake is a nice rest stop (p191)
paddy, about 1km south of the main village.
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E N y a u n g s h w e 187
though these arent necessarily unwelcome Big Drum Restaurant (dishes K800) Made up of a
to travellers weary of the usual curry and rice set of thatched A-frame shelters on the west-
dishes. Interestingly enough, a few places ern bank of the main canal, this is a friendly
advertise pizzas but dont serve them. Most place. A Shan dinner of fish curry, bean
restaurants that cater to tourists stay open soup, fried peanuts and rice costs K1000.
till 9pm or 10pm. Be cautious of newcom- Chinese food is also available.
ers anxious to take advantage of tourists Htoo Htoo Aung Chinese & Shan Food (dishes
dollars without providing good standards of 800) This small A-frame restaurant near the
hygiene. Several travellers have reported be- Aquarius Inn has a few tables. Shan speci-
coming sick after eating improperly washed alities are the highlight of the menu.
vegetables. Hu Pin Restaurant (dishes K1000) The Hu Pin
Mingala Market is a good place to shop for serves very good Chinese food in a modern
local produce; there are also plenty of Shan and clean dining area. The English-language
kauq-sweh (noodle-soup) vendors at the mar- menu is divided into three sections: chicken,
ket every morning. Another local delicacy is fish and pork.
maung jeut (round, flat rice crisps). Eden Teashop (h6am-5pm) On the north-
Several hotels, including Four Sisters Inn eastern corner of the market near an old
and Teakwood Guest House, have good res- bridge over the Mong Li Canal, this teashop
taurants open to nonguests. sells good nam-bya (nan-type bread) with
Unique Superb Food House (3 Myawady Rd; chicken bean dip.
fricassees K2000) Really only a few tables set in Also recommended:
a garden around the corner from the Re- Daw Nyunt Yee Restaurant (dishes K700)
member Inn, this restaurant has learned to Shanland Restaurant (dishes K700)
cater to the tourist palate without sacrificing Shwe Pye Soe Restaurant (dishes K700)
creativity or local flavour. The filet mignon
is K2000, the potato curry is K600 and the Getting There & Away
cream of carrot soup is K500. Apart from flying, all the routes to the Inle
Golden Kite Restaurant (Yone Gyi Rd; dishes K1000) Lake area are time-consuming, but there are
This is the reigning king of pasta and pan- several options that can save you much time
cake joints. Omelettes, fruit shakes and a and trouble. First of all, theres no need to
vegetarian version of its delicious tagliatelle go to Taunggyi, the main town in the area
are also on offer. Most of the staff speak and the location of the main MTT office.
excellent English and are quite familiar with If you simply want to go to the lake youll
foreign travellers tastes. Tables are set out- save a couple of hours by skipping Taung- N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
side on a wraparound porch. gyi and transferring in the junction town of
Smiling Moon Restaurant (Yone Gyi Rd; dishes Shwenyaung (see p181).
K800) With a similar menu to the Golden The staging area for most public trans-
Kite just down the street, Smiling Moon has port to/from Nyaungshwe is just north of
a few tables and is clean and friendly. the Hu Pin Hotel, one block west of Min-
Miss Nyaungshwe Restaurant (Phaungdaw Seiq Rd; gala Market.
pastas K1000) The usual Chinese and Bamar cur-
ries, plus pancakes and pasta dishes are served AIR
here. Miss Nyaungshwe has a nice outdoor Air Mandalay (AM), Yangon Airways (YA),
patio and a selection of bottled beers. Myanma Airways (MA) and Bagan Air (BA)
Aroma Restaurant (Chaung Rd; dishes K800) This all fly to Heho (the gateway to the Inle Lake
modest-looking place along the canal serves region), 30km west of Shwenyaung. From
savoury Indian meat and vegetable curries. Heho its a further 11km to Nyaungshwe
Theres another branch in Bagan. or 20km to Taunggyi. For some reason the
La Libellude (dishes K800) Walk across the terminal in Heho is completely fenced off,
bridge and turn left to reach this restau- so taxis have to stop down the road, over
rant just across the canal. La Libellude is an 100m away, where there are a couple of small
ideal place to sit in the late afternoon and restaurants.
watch canal life float by while enjoying a AM, BA and YA have daily flights from
sandwich, a salad, a shake or delicious apple Yangon to Heho, some via Mandalay. Dur-
tart (K600). ing the high season (November to February),
you can count on at least two flights per Bagan

day from Heho to Yangon and Mandalay A share taxi from Nyaungshwe to Bagan
with one of these reliable carriers, but during is more convenient than a bus and only
other times of the year service is less regular. slightly more expensive if youre in a group
The YangonHeho fare is US$105, and the of four. The entire taxi costs from K50,000
MandalayHeho fare is US$50. to K60,000 and takes around eight hours.
AM, BA and YA fly daily from Heho to Shwe Hla Mi and Ye Thu Aunger operate
Bagan with a stopover in Mandalay. A ticket buses from Taunggyi to Bagan (K7000) that
for this leg costs US$75. leave at 4am. The buses pass by the Shwe-
During the high season AM and YA fly nyaung junction at around 5am and arrive
from Heho to Kengtung and Tachileik daily in Bagan around 12 hours later.
(US$75).
MA flies from Yangon and Mandalay to Kalaw, Thazi & Meiktila
Heho as well, but theres no reason to fly To reach Kalaw from Nyaungshwe, catch any
with the government-run airline, especially Mandalay- or Yangon-bound bus in Shwe-
as the other airlines are far superior in nyaung (three to four hours). Buses going
terms of reliability and comfort. to Yangon generally also stop in Thazi, and
The one-hour taxi ride between Heho some buses going to Mandalay may stop in
airport and Nyaungshwe costs K9000 to Meiktila (a new road now bypasses the town,
K15,000. Its more expensive to go from the which makes the situation uncertain).
airport to town, since drivers there know
youre at their mercy. The cheaper option is Mandalay
to hike out to the main road and wait for a Buses between Mandalay and the lake area
pick-up or bus to the Shwenyaung junction (eight to 12 hours) cost K5000 to K6000,
(K350); from Shwenyaung, another pick-up depending on the bus company. Two of
or bus will eventually go to Nyaungshwe the more reliable express companies, Taung
(about K200). If youre continuing to Taung- Thar Express and Shan Maw Mye, have
gyi, its K300. Keep in mind that doing it the daily departures for Taunggyi. The former
cheap way may take half a day. departs Mandalay at 7pm and the latter
at 5am.
BUS, PICK-UP & TAXI Several buses pass through Shwenyaung
By road, most people travel to Inle Lake from on their way to Mandalay from 6pm to 8pm.
Bagan, Mandalay, Thazi or Kalaw. Around If arranged through guesthouses, share
January, the trip from the plains over the taxis between Nyaungshwe and Mandalay
mountains to Inle Lake can be very cold in are around K50,000 to K60,000 for the
an open-truck pick-up make sure you have whole taxi and take around eight hours.
some warm clothes. Although its unlikely to be used by
The initial departure point and final des- buses, a new and shorter route by car leaves
tination of all public transport is Taunggyi, the MandalayMeiktila road just south of
but travellers in Nyaungshwe and Inle need Kyaukse and crosses the hills through Ye-
only wait by the side of the road at Shwe- Ngan to meet the AungbanPindaya road
nyaung junction, 11km north of Nyaung- halfway between the two towns.
shwe. Buses stop and pick up passengers
waiting at the side of the road. Tickets for Taunggyi & Yangon
the destinations listed below should be pur- Pick-ups to Taunggyi leave virtually every
chased in advance. Travel agencies and most half-hour from 6am to 4pm from a small
hotels and guesthouses in Nyaungshwe can lot two blocks south of the canal. The up-
help make bus reservations. hill trip takes one hour and costs K500
Share taxis are quicker and generally not for a front seat and K300 for a spot in the
significantly more expensive than a bus if crowded back.
youre travelling in a group of four or more. A taxi along the same route costs K12,000
Any of the following destinations can be ar- or more for a return trip.
ranged through your guesthouse or one of Several companies run buses between
the travel agencies or freelance guides roam- Yangon and Taunggyi (see p195). Two
ing around Nyaungshwes restaurants. nightly Yangon-bound buses stop briefly in
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E A r o u n d t h e L a k e s h o re 189
Shwenyaung around noon. Eastern State dirt road until you reach the fork at the top
Express charges K7000 per seat and arrives of a steep hill. Turn left here and continue on
at Yangons Highway bus terminal 16 to 20 this hilly paved road the rest of the way. The
hours later. hot springs will be on your left. Many hikes
from Kalaw to Inle end here as well.
Getting Around
Most guesthouses have bicycles for rent, as INLEH BO TEH
do a few of the travel agencies and a couple a='"ly' buil'tE
of ramshackle bike-rental shacks around The lake is very shallow and clear, so a swim
town. Rates are generally K500 per day. Its looks inviting, and Inleh Bo Teh is a good place
an excellent way to see the surrounding to have one. Inleh means middle of, bo
countryside, including the hot springs near means officer or official, and teh means
Kaung Daing. house, so Inleh Bo Teh is literally an of-
ficial's house in the middle of a lake. Its
AROUND THE LAKESHORE no longer used as such, but it makes a good
To explore the lake, you can hire a boat place to stop for a mid-lake picnic or swim.
from just about anyone who has one. The
exact price per person or per boat depends NGA HPE CHAUNG
on two things: the price of petrol and the (JUMPING CAT MONASTERY)
distance travelled. An all-day trip around =:"fy'exYC='"
the lake costs less than US$10. Key sights Monks get bored just like the rest of us
include the Ywama floating market, Indein meditation only gets you so far. Admittedly,
and Phuang Daw Oo Paya. See p191 for we dont know anything about this, but sup-
more information on boat trips. porting our theory are the monks at Nga
Hpe Kyaung, who have trained their much-
Sights photographed resident cats to leap through
KAUNG DAING small hoops. (Just north of Ywama, Nga Hpe
ex:='tiu=' is a wooden monastery on stilts that was
This Intha village on the northwestern shore built four years before Mandalay Palace.)
of the lake is known for its soybean cakes The monks have expressed some frustra-
and noodles. Its easy to observe the meth- tion with visitors who make cat-jumping de-
ods used, as just about every other house- mands while they (the monks) are occupied
hold is involved in this cottage industry. with things such as eating and meditating.
Pottery and weaving can also be seen. Just Otherwise they seem willing to oblige vis- N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
outside the village are some interesting Shan itors. But an even better reason to visit is the
temple ruins. modest collection of Buddha images in Shan,
A little north of Kaung Daing (also spelt Tibetan, Bagan and Inwa (Ava) styles. The
Kaungdine) are some hot springs (h7am-5pm) tall, highly ornate wood-and-mosaic pedes-
really little more than a concrete communal tals and cases built for the images are just as
bath. Longyi are available for rent (K200). impressive as the Buddhas themselves. Many
Private rooms are also available (US$2). of the original Shan images they once con-
The water is very hot and said to be clean- tained have been sold or stolen, so the cases
est between May and August. mostly house newer images.
Kaung Daing and the hot springs are a
1-hour drive from Nyaungshwe around YWAMA
the top of the lake via Shwenyaung on the r;m
Heho road, or about 30 minutes across the To see Ywamas famous floating market, you
lake by boat. A boat charter costs K800 (each must calculate the day according to the
way) to Kaung Daing, which has a couple local five-day market scheme. Sad to say,
of hotels nearby. However, most travellers you must also consider what has hap-
interested only in the hot springs arrive by pened to this once-interesting local event.
bicycle (see above). Its a bumpy and pot- On market day, the Ywama floating mar-
holed 40-minute ride from Nyaungshwe. ket is a traffic jam of tourist boats and
Cross the small bridge over the canal on the souvenir hawkers, with a few local farm-
western edge of town and follow the rough, ers trying to sell their vegetables to a few
190 I N L E L A K E A r o u n d t h e L a k e s h o re www.lonelyplanet.com
local buyers. On nonmarket days, its al- reveal Nyaung Ohak (Group of Banyan Trees,
most worse because there are only souvenir or Under the Shade of Banyan Trees), a
and tourist boats; of course, the smart vege- mouldering complex of shrines and stupas.
table farmers are already at another five- Even more exotic looking is the stairway
day market. Arriving early wont help: the lined with hundreds of wooden columns
action is in full swing by 8.30am, and its leading up the hill. At the top is Shwe Inn
downhill from there. Thein, an impressive collection of weather-
Dont despair you can enjoy a float- beaten stupas that, from one perspective,
ing market without fighting the crowds have thankfully escaped restoration. From
and without adding to the already crazy the hillside there are great views across the
atmosphere of Ywama. Simply choose any lake to the hills in the east and, behind the
market from the five-day market schedule stupas, of the countryside to the west.
around Inle. Any guesthouse or hotel in But the very picturesqueness that draws
Nyaungshwe will have the current schedule. visitors is undermined by the souvenir sell-
A secondary five-day circuit rotates among ers that travellers must dodge from the mo-
the lake villages of Kaung Daing, Maing ment they step from the boat. The site is
Thauk, Nam Pan, Indein and Thandaung. practically one long table of tourist kitsch,
The approach to Ywama is quite beautiful though some of the lacquerware and silver-
despite the market scene, and after the morn- ware is of good quality.
ing rush hour (and before the late-afternoon Its a 1000m climb to reach the U Daung
one) its a lovely place to see. Perched over Monastery & Meditation Centre, just south of
the lake are several restaurants, good for Indein.
a midday snack or lunch break, serving
Bamar and Chinese food. Regular boats go MAING THAUK
from Nyaungshwe to Ywama village. miu='"eo;k''
On the eastern side of the lake, the village
PHAUNG DAW OO PAYA of Maing Thauk is divided into land and
efC='et;'W".ur;" floating halves. The 0.5km-long wooden
The main landing at Ywama stands in front bridge running out to the floating village
of Phaung Daw Oo Paya, the holiest religious from the lakes shore was built with volun-
site in the southern area of Shan State. Five tary village labour in 2001. Just below the
images, four of which are ferried around boys orphanage on the hillside above the vil-
the lake during the important Phaung Daw lage, a few crumbling gravestones are all that
Oo festival (see p183), are enshrined in the remain of the colonial-era Fort Steadman.
centre of the building. Beside the channel Further up the hill is the Maing Thauk forest
are the boathouses sheltering the ornate ves- monastery. The village is within cycling dis-
sels that carry the images on their annual tance from Nyaungshwe; follow the bumpy
voyage. track running along the foot of the hills that
Stalls on the ground floor of the shrine rise up from the lake.
and nearby sell brightly coloured cotton
Shan shoulder bags, other local crafts and SOUTHERN END OF THE LAKE
antiques. Silk and cotton fabrics are a local On the southwestern side of the lake, a long
speciality; there are over 200 hand looms in walkway leads to the poorly restored hill-top
Ywama. A shady khamauk (conical bamboo complex of stupas at Thaung Tho Kyaung. On
hat) is another popular purchase here. the lakeside theres a popular market site (the
market is part of the five-day scheme).
INDEIN Right at the southern end of the lake, the
a='"tim' whole village of Kyauk Taung is so devoted to
A regular convoy of motorised longboats pottery-making that there are pots every-
speeding tourists through the winding, maze- where. The floating village of Kyaing Kan East
like entrance to the village of Indein on the specialises in weaving robes using threads
western side of the lake detracts somewhat drawn from the long stems of lotus plants.
from the Indiana Joneslike atmosphere. The lotus robes are specially made for
Overgrown vegetation slaps against the boat monks, Buddha statues and visiting tourists.
and your head, and dense jungle opens up to Theyre quite expensive (US$35 to US$50
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E A r o u n d t h e L a k e s h o re 191
for a shawl) because of their rarity, as lotus people in town do shorter canoe trips on
plants can only be gathered for six months the canals branching from the lake and
of the year. along the Nyaungshwe shore of the lake.
Although you wont get to see the more
Activities famous lake sights, life along the canals is
MOTORBOAT TRIPS fascinating and the villagers are friendly.
It is de rigueur to take at least one boat trip The slow-moving canoes are also better for
on the lake during a visit to Inle. Long, photography.
narrow dugout canoes outfitted with enor- One place that can only be visited by
mous lawn-mower engines typically ferry canoe is the large nat shrine in the middle
tourists to Phaung Daw Oo Paya (Ywama), of a swampy banyan-tree jungle opposite
Jumping Cat Monastery, Indein, and the Nanthe village on the main channel. The
floating gardens and souvenir shops. At house-sized wooden shrine sits on stilts and
all these places youll see Shan shoulder contains a rustic altar.
bags, embroidered shirts and longyi, tap- Canoes arent subject to the lake entrance
estries, pottery, jewellery, and all the usual fee and can be arranged from the same
souvenirs. places as motorboats, including the canal
The lake itself is rich in wildlife, espe- area near the bridge. Rates for two to three
cially waterfowl. All bird life on the lake people range from a cheap K500 for one
and in the adjoining wetlands is reportedly hour to K6000 for several hours.
protected by law, as Inle Lake has been an
official bird sanctuary since 1985. You can HIKING
see herons, warblers and egrets, which fly Extended walks to the north or south of
in formation over the lake every day about Nyaungshwe pass among extensive rice
an hour before sunset. However, you wont paddies dotted with Shan stupa ruins. Trails
hear them or the comments of fellow pas- into the hills east of town lead to Pa-O vil-
sengers for that matter over the thunder lages and panoramic views of the lake area.
of the boats motor. The front seat is best A good and rugged all-day hike is to the
for those with sensitive eardrums. monastery Koun Soun Taungbo and nearby cave
Virtually every hotel and guesthouse in Ta-Eh Gu. You pass through two Pa-O villages
Nyaungshwe can arrange motorboat trips. on the way. Further away are the ruins of
As you might expect, the higher-end ho- Kakku.
tels charge more. The least expensive trips Guided day hikes can be arranged at
can be sussed out by simply showing up the guesthouses or hotels. Guides typically N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
at the jetty near the MTT office and ask- charge US$5 a day, which includes a basic
ing around. The drawback to the cheaper lunch of rice and curry. Multiday trips,
boats found at the pier is the fact that the other than to Inle, are currently not offi-
drivers are less likely to speak English and cially encouraged. Its a good idea to bring
more likely to ferry you to the standard bottled water on any day hike.
touristy places where they receive commis- An increasingly popular option is the hike
sion. Prices range from K6000 per boat to from Inle Lake to Kalaw, though its more
K6000 per person for the day. Some boats common to do it in the other direction. A
can seat up to 10. You may be asked to pay typical route includes stops in the following
more depending on your itinerary. Shan, Intha, Pa-O, Danu and Taung villages:
Indein, Nan Yakr, Taung Kha Mauk, Kyauk
CANOE TRIPS Su Ti Htain, Put Tu Pauk, Kun Lone, Lay
With all the package tours heading to the Thar Gone, Pha Yar Phyu, Inn Woon, Myin
southern end of the lake on noisy power- Ma Hti and Kalaw.
boats nowadays, a quiet canoe paddle through
the villages along the lake channel has be- Sleeping
come an attractive alternative. Unfortu- Upmarket places, some quite idyllic, are
nately, following the drowning of a foreign primarily found on the lake itself or outside
visitor after a canoe capsized, nonmotorised Nyaungshwe somewhere near the shore.
canoes ferrying foreign passengers are no All of the hotels built like floating vil-
longer allowed on the lake. However, several lages on stilts directly over the lake or on the
192 I N L E L A K E A r o u n d I n l e L a k e www.lonelyplanet.com
lakeshore are top end. While they are indeed Royal Orchid Hotel (in Taunggyi%23182; s US$25-30,
quite idyllic, single travellers will probably d US$30-45) Near Kaung Daing on the north-
feel somewhat lonely, as its a long boat ride western part of the lake, the Royal Orchid is
back to Nyaungshwe, and the fantastic sun- a quiet and relaxing place about 50m from
sets visible from the eastern shore stir ro- the lakes bank. It offers 20 spacious bunga-
mantic feelings best explored with others. low rooms with private facilities and serene
Reservations are recommended in the views. Rates vary depending on room size
high season, and discounts are available on- and view.
line. All of the hotels will arrange pick-ups Also recommended:
and return boat trips to/from Nyaungshwe. Hu Pin Hotel Inle Khaung Daing Village Resort
Golden Island Cottages I (Nampan) & II (Thale (%29291; [email protected])
U) (GIC; in Taunggyi%23136, in Yangon%01-549 019; Shwe Inn Tha Floating Resort (%22077; www
www.gicmyanmar.com; s US$35-60, d US$40-70; i ) .myanmarinlefloatingresort.com; s/d US$33/38)
The equivalent of prime beach-front prop-
erty, the Golden Island Cottages location Eating
near the village of Nam Pan affords unob- There are a number of places to eat in the
structed views of the lake and surrounding floating village of Ywama, near Phaung Daw
mountains on both sides. The main lodge Oo Paya. Several restaurants with balconies
is connected to the individual hardwood serve Chinese food and make nice lunch
cottages (each with a private balcony) by an stops on an all-day lake tour.
elevated walkway, so that every room seems For a real treat, albeit an expensive one,
to be its own little island. Newer all-teak hire a boat to take you to the Inle Princess
rooms are much nicer than the older rooms Resort for a meal. Choose from Shan, Intha,
furnished with bamboo matting. Theres a Thai and European menus (US$18).
swimming area with a sandy bottom, and
the affordable restaurant specialises in Chi- AROUND INLE LAKE
nese, Pa-O and Shan dishes (sweet-and-sour Kakku
butterfish costs K2000). kkB
Both GICs 20 rooms near Thale U were Kakku (also spelt Kekku or Ketku) is best de-
opened in 2000 are run as a Pa-O collec- scribed as an orchard of stupas. Some 40km
tive, which means that profits benefit the south of Taunggyi in a region populated by
community. Thale U is quieter as its closer the Pa-O people, the site is said to contain
to the shore and out of earshot of most boats. over 2000 stupas, most of which are only
Both hotels welcome guests with a percus- 3m to 4m high, laid out in neat rows. Con-
sion quartet and cold towels. They also run structed in a mixture of Pa-O, Shan and
treks and trips to Kakku and Sankar. Bamar styles, the stupas are made of brick
Inle Princess Resort (%29055, in Yangon%211 and laterite, and some are covered with or-
226; www.inleprincessresort.com; bungalows US$160) nate stucco motifs. Two larger stupas are
Easily the most luxurious place on the lake, also part of the collection; one contains a
the Inle Princess is honeymoon material. highly revered Buddha image. No detailed
Extravagant and sophisticated, the indi- studies have been conducted to determine
vidual bungalows have been designed with the age of this site, but a local legend gives
maximum attention to every detail and it a history dating back to the 3rd century
a concern for privacy. Colourful pillows, BC, when Indias Buddhist emperor Asoka is
original artwork, pyjamas and flowers are said to have sent missionaries to the region.
just a few of the touches. Some bungalows An all-weather road has been built to
have outdoor all-stone showers and baths. Kakku, making it easily accessible from
More expensive ones have lake views, sun Taunggyi. Unfortunately, along with the
decks and cushioned lounge chairs, while new road have come concessions to tour-
others have garden views. ists, both foreign and local. The site has
The spectacular dining room and bar been fenced in, and paved walkways have
area, with its soaring ceiling, is modelled been laid around and through the rows of
on a monastery building in Kengtung. The stupas. The typical dilemma that affects
Shan food is expensive but excellent, and Buddhist ruins throughout Southeast Asia
cultural shows are put on for big groups. applies here. While foreign visitors are
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E A r o u n d I n l e L a k e 193
drawn to these ancient sites to view them in beings). A monk lives in the old pagoda and
their picturesque ruined state, local Bud- monastery, surrounded by lush fields.
dhist pilgrims come specifically to acquire Trips to Sankar are arranged in coopera-
religious merit by contributing money to tion with the Pa-O collective. Golden Island
the restoration of the ruins. Cottage (opposite) charges K30,000 for up
Kakku is managed by the same Pa-O col- to five people, plus a permit fee of US$6.
lective that owns the Golden Island Cot-
tages at Inle Lake. Before visiting the site, Taunggyi
foreign visitors are required to stop at the et;='kI"
GIC office (Pa-O collective office; %23136; fax 23970; %081
65 West Circular Rd, Taunggyi) and pay a US$3 en- Taunggyi feels distant from the tourist-
trance fee and a US$5 guide fee. A Pa-O oriented Nyaungshwe, its Chinese influence
guide from this office will accompany you visible in the architecture and physiognomy
to the site. While their English isnt always of its inhabitants. The towns essence is the
up to par, this arrangement will at least en- main commercial thoroughfare that runs
able the Pa-O to earn some of the tourist from north to south. Its flanked by tightly
dollars that they hope their historic site will packed buildings selling everything from
attract. refrigerators to knock-off designer clothing
So far there isnt any accommodation in and more mundane electrical supplies.
the immediate vicinity. Hlaing Konn Res- At 1430m, Taunggyi (Big Hill in Bur-
taurant, a huge restaurant of the type that mese) provides a cool break from the heat of
caters to busloads of package tourists, over- the plains. There are some pleasant walks if
looks the site. youre in the mood, but basically the town is
a growing trade centre for the southwestern
GETTING THERE & AWAY area of Shan State. All that remains of the
To visit Kakku you must first hire a car. colonial era is an overgrown graveyard, a
Foreigners arent allowed to take public stone church, a line of cherry trees and a
transport to the site, even though a railway handful of timber cottages, all on the fringes
line runs from Taunggyi to Kakku. Cars of town.
and guides can be hired through hotels in Taunggyi is the official end of the line
Taunggyi (1 hours one way) and Nyaung- for east-bound foreigners in Myanmar at
shwe (2 hours one way). The return trips least for those travelling by road. What lies
cost US$15 and US$25 respectively, plus beyond Taunggyi is a matter of speculation:
US$5 admission per person (this includes black-marketeers, ruby miners, insurgent N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
waiting time of a couple of hours at the armies or opium and methamphetamine
stupas). The less expensive option is to just warlords?
show up at the GIC office in Taunggyi and Because it functions as a conduit for
hire a guide from there. smuggled goods from Thailand, China and
India, and as a base for trips to the Maing
Sankar Shu (Mong Hsu) gem tract to the east, this
ckC" is one of Myanmars most prosperous and
This area far south of Inle only opened to enterprising towns. An abundance of black-
foreign tourists in 2003, though hardly any market consumer goods is displayed in the
venture here. The trip from Nyaungshwe Taunggyi market, which is at the edge of
takes 2 hours from October to December, a Chinese enclave whose residents include
and 3 hours in the dry season. A long, many illegal immigrants. The remainder of
winding canal connects the southernmost the population of 100,000 people includes
tip of Inle with a reservoir near the vil- tribespeople, Shan, Bamar, Sikhs, Punjabis
lage of Sankar. Running through the water and Nepalis. Along Taunggyis main streets
here is the remnants of an old irrigation canal, youll see various temples, mosques and
made of sand and lime over 500 years ago churches.
for a settlement ruled by a Shan chief. Lo-
cals unfamiliar with the materials and tech- SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
nology used to build the wall explain its Taunggyi has an interesting market area in
origins in a love story involving nat (spirit the centre of town where youre likely to
194 I N L E L A K E A r o u n d I n l e L a k e www.lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m INFORMATION
TAUNGGYI 0 0.3 miles Hospital....................................................................................1 A1
Mayflower Bank......................................................................2 A3
A B Myanmar Economic Bank (MEB)..............................................3 A3
To Inle Lake (35km); Post & Telecom Office.............................................................4 A4
1 Heho (35km) 11
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Asian Light Supermarket..........................................................5 A3
1 Baptist Church..........................................................................6 B2
Catholic Church.......................................................................7 B3
Church.....................................................................................8 B2
Clock Tower............................................................................9 A2
Flying Tiger Mashua..............................................................10 A3
38 Gem Market...........................................................................11 B1
GIC Office.............................................................................12 A2
West Circular Rd
Mosque.................................................................................13 A3
Khwanyo Rd 35 Mosque.................................................................................14 A4
28 37 Myoe Le Dhamma Yon Paya.................................................15 A3
27
New Market..........................................................................16 A2
25 32
33 8 43 Old Market............................................................................17 A2
St George Anglican Church...................................................18 A4
Shan State Cultural Museum.................................................19 A4
East Circular Rd
2 39 Shan State Library.................................................................20 A4

26 Sikh Temple...........................................................................21 A3
6
42 Township Offices...................................................................22 B4
41 Yat Taw Me Paya.................................................................. 23 A4
45
YMCA................................................................................... 24 A4
12
16 17 34
9
Bogyoke Aung San Rd (Main Rd)
SLEEPING
44 5 Khemarat Guest House..........................................................25 A2
40 Khemarat Hotel.....................................................................26 A2
36

10 Muse Hotel............................................................................27 A2
Paradise Hotel........................................................................28 A2
15
Thida Rd
Salween Hotel.......................................................................29 A3
31
Taunggyi Hotel......................................................................30 B4
3 3
EATING
13 29 21 Brother Hotel Restaurant.......................................................31 A3
2 Coca-Cola Restaurant............................................................32 A2
Daw Thwan Shan Noodle Shop.............................................33 A2
Htun Restaurant....................................................................34 A2
46
7 Khine Thazin Restaurant........................................................35 A2
Bogyoke
Park Lyan Yu Restaurant................................................................36 A3
Maw Kham............................................................................37 A2
14
24 Maxim's Chinese Restaurant..................................................38 A1
23 4 Sein Myanmar Restaurant......................................................39 A2
20
ENTERTAINMENT
19 Shu Myoma Cinema.....................................................................40 A3
Mya
4 22
18 TRANSPORT
w Khin
Buses to Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan.......................................41 A2

30
Rd
Eastern State Express Bus.......................................................42 A2

Myanma Airways...................................................................43 B2
To Kakku (42km); Taxis & Local Buses, Pick-Ups................................................44 A3
Kengtung (456km) Taxis, Pick-ups to Inle Lake....................................................45 A2
Yangon Airways....................................................................46 A3
rub shoulders with hill-tribe people. Theres kinds of dress for the 35 different ethnic
a daily market, plus one that comes to town groups officially recognised in the state.
every five days. The latter market moves English-speaking lecturers are available at
from Taunggyi to Pwehla (on the way to no extra cost to lead visitors around.
Pindaya), then to Kalaw on the third day, The Pa-O have established a cultural cen-
and from there (in turn) to Pindaya, Heho tre (98 Merchant St) near the market. The small
and back to Taunggyi. but well-laid-out centre contains musical
Theres also a daily gem market (hnoon-4pm) instruments, including a typical Pa-O ac-
in the northeastern part of town, where jade, cordion, as well as banknotes and tradi-
rubies and sapphires are bought and sold. tional costumes.
For those interested in the Shan States Theres a cheroot factory called Flying
cultures, the modest Shan State Cultural Mu- Tiger Mashua on a sidestreet to the south
seum (admission US$2; h9.30am-3.30pm) and Shan of the Myoma Cinema. The hand-rolling
State Library are worth a visit. Items include technique is impressive, and cheroot bun-
local native costumes, religious art, musi- dlers are able to get cheroots into bundles
cal instruments, ceramics and weapons. If of 50 without counting they judge simply
nothing else, you can begin identifying the by feel.
www.lonelyplanet.com I N L E L A K E A r o u n d I n l e L a k e 195
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Khine Thazin (dishes K1000), Maxims Chinese

In October/November, to coincide with the Restaurant (dishes K1000) and Coca-Cola Restau-
full-moon festival of Tazaungmon (Tazaung- rant (dishes K1000) are three of the better res-
daing), the city hosts a hot-air (or fire-) balloon taurants in Taunggyi. They serve Bamar
festival. Its very popular with Burmese and Chinese cuisine and can be found near
tourists, so it may be easier to find accom- one another on Bogyoke Aung San Rd
modation in Nyaungshwe during this three- (Main Rd). At Khine Thazin, the best of the
day event. bunch, each dish comes with a handful of
interesting free side dishes, and the friendly
SLEEPING owner ensures that service is conscientious
There really is no reason to spend the and timely.
night in Taunggyi rather than Nyaung- Maw Kham (Mawkham St; hto 8pm) This hum-
shwe. In terms of quality, value and charm, ble abode, next door to the Coca-Cola Res-
accommodation in Taunggyi simply cant taurant, serves Bamar and Chinese standards,
compete. If you do decide to stay here in and has a late closing time for Taunggyi. To
November, keep the balloon festival in get there, walk east from the main street and
mind (see above). make an immediate left. Its the unmarked
Taunggyi Hotel (%21127; Shu Myaw Khin Rd; s/d wooden building on the right (theres a Bur-
US$25/30) Perched on a hillside, this supposedly mese sign).
privatised place sprawls over landscaped Other recommended restaurants:
grounds near the southern end of town. Brother Hotel Restaurant (222 Bogyoke Aung San
Spacious rooms come with attached hot- Rd) A block south of Lyan Yu Restaurant, the Brother Hotel
water bathrooms and access to tennis serves decent Chinese meals.
courts. The old Ministry of Hotels & Tour- Daw Thwan Shan Noodle Shop Just across from the
ism (MHT)style bar and restaurant attract Khemarat Guest House, this place does very good noodles.
a mix of well-heeled businesspeople and
military types. GETTING THERE & AWAY
Paradise Hotel (%22009; 157 Khwanyo Rd; stand- Air
ard s/d US$20/30) This modern, four-storey Daily flights go to Heho from Bagan, Keng-
Chinese-style place has an interior-design tung, Mandalay and Yangon; Heho is 35km
scheme that challenges the eye: checker- west of Taunggyi. See p187 for more details.
board tile floors, wicker chairs and pink A taxi from Heho to Taunggyi costs around
curtains. There are also slightly nicer rooms US$10 or the kyat equivalent.
with plush sitting rooms at the end of each N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
floor. Note that theres no lift. Bus, Pick-up & Taxi
Hotel Empire (% 23737; 31 Bogyoke Aung San Public pick-up trucks from Taunggyi to Inle
Rd; s/d US$15/24) Owned by a Chinese trad- Lake (front/back seat K500/300, one hour)
ing company, this place caters to business leave frequently from the area just north of
travellers. Its in a nondescript four-storey Taunggyi market between 6am and 4pm.
building but is more modern than other A taxi along the same route costs around
hotels. Rooms come with extras such as US$10 or the kyat equivalent.
TV and bathtub. Theres one bus per day from Taunggyi
Khemarat Hotel (%22464; 4B Bogyoke Aung San to Pindaya (K1500), leaving at 2pm and ar-
Rd), Muse Hotel (%22567; 6 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) riving at 5.30pm. This bus generally leaves
and Salween Hotel (%22605; 289 Bogyoke Aung San from the Eastern State Express bus stop
Rd) all have singles/doubles for US$10/20. on Bogyoke Aung San Rd, where theres
a ticket office. There are frequent pick-ups
EATING to Pindaya from the Shwenyaung junction,
A row of small food stalls in the market starting at 6am.
area serves decent Chinese and Shan dishes. Buses heading to Mandalay (K5000 to
Very little English is spoken here. Between K6000, eight hours) depart from just north
the Sikh temple and the cinema on the main of the market.
road are a number of decent teashops and Several buses for Yangon (K7000, 16 to
small eateries that specialise in an extensive 20 hours) depart at around 6pm from the
variety of pastries and tea snacks. area just north of the market.
196 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) www.lonelyplanet.com
colonial architecture, Kengtung is probably

KENGTUNG & the most scenic town in Shan State. Its a good
base for trips to ethnic-minority villages.
BORDER AREAS About 80% of the townships population
of 180,000 people is Khn; roughly 15% is
kYi='"tu NH=' ny'cp'eds Shan-Chinese and the remainder is a mix of
%084 other ethnicities, such as Lahu. About half of
Because Kengtung is only accessible by air the population is Buddhist, and another 17%
from within Myanmar, this mountainous is Christian American missionaries were
region bordering China, Laos and Thai- quite active here, as their imposing churches
land attracts fewer visitors than it otherwise attest. The rest of the population belongs to
would. Those who do shell out for the airfare various spirit cults.
are more likely to be on group tours, while Kengtung is also a strategic stronghold of
others cross overland from Thailand. If in the Myanmar government amid the shifting
future domestic airfares drop or foreigners seas of Shan and Wa insurgency and the
are allowed to reach the area by road from illicit drug trade. Its position is doubly stra-
Taunggyi, Kengtung will probably become a tegic, as the area is a crossroads with outlets
standard stop for overland travellers, rival- in four countries Myanmar, China, Thai-
ling Kalaw and Inle. However, its the very land and Laos. As such, its a linchpin in
remoteness of it that makes this mountain the countrys defence. Some human-rights
valley, dotted with far-flung minority hill- groups claim that over 125,000 Wa were
tribe villages, attractive to travellers. resettled from the north to the south be-
Although Kengtung lies about midway tween 1992 and 2002. Its reported that the
between the Thanlwin and Mekong River United Wa State Army has 20,000 troops
valleys, it is more or less cut off from the and enjoys good relations with the Chinese
former by a series of northsouth mountain government in Beijing.
ranges. Hence, culturally, the area has more
affinity with the nearby cultures of the Me- Information
kong Laos, Xishuangbanna (southeast- Sunflower Travel & Tours (%21833) Just over a
ern Yunnan Province, China) and northern block east of the central market.
Thailand than with the Shan and Bamar Yangon Airways (%22300; 36 Zaytangyi Rd; h9am-
cultures west of the Thanlwin. Indeed, cul- 5pm) Near the Mausoleum of the Khn Princes.
turally Kengtung feels more like some long-
forgotten corner of northern Thailand than Sights & Activities

a part of Myanmar. When the British settled into Kengtung,
they centred the town on a large natural
KENGTUNG (KYAINGTONG) lake. Decaying colonial-style buildings, taken
kYi='"tu over by the Myanmar government or by
%084 squatters, are reminiscent of British colonial
Kengtung appears more planned than the provincial architecture found elsewhere in
average medium-sized Myanmar town. Myanmar and India.
Theres a less ad-hoc feel and more uniform- The lake in the centre of town, Naung Tung
ity of design. This organisation, coupled (naung is the Shan word for small lake),
with a pleasant sense of isolation and the is a popular spot for morning and evening
picturesque mountain backdrop, sees Keng- strolls.
tung hit the rare Myanmar trifecta. Tucked The central market draws people from
away in the far east of Shan State 456km all over the Kengtung district, including
northeast of Taunggyi, 163km north of the a variety of hill-tribe people. Fresh pro-
border town of Tachileik (opposite Mae duce and household goods are the markets
Sai, Thailand) and 1200m above sea level main emphases, but some handicrafts are
Kengtung is the sleepy but historic centre for also available. Look for a handful of stalls
the states Khn culture, surrounded by Wa, that specialise in supplying Akha women
Shan, Akha and Lahu villages. Built around with the silver coins, buttons and seed beads
a small lake, and dotted with ageing Bud- that they use to decorate their colourful
dhist temples and a few examples of British clothing.
www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) 197
0 500 m
KENGTUNG (KYAINGTONG) 0 0.3 miles
A B C D
To Mong La
To Hot Springs (11km); 50 Kanaburi (90km)
Mong Yang (100km) Village
Mai
Y
ang
1 45
Rd
10
18 20
Naung Khum Rd
UNDCP 7
Office
36
56 Rd To Airport
Airport (3km)
62
39 Myaing Yau n 33
63
57 53 38
2
13
27 35
12 3 Naung Kham 61
g
Rd
54 Lake
d
al R
30
spit
Naung Tung
52
Ho
41 40
To Taunggyi 31
34
Kan
(456km) 24
32 28 67
Rd
Tac 22 2
hile
ik 23 15 14 Rd
(Ma -Taunggyi 47 65 16
58
17 nggyi
in Rd Rd 11 68 19
) 48 -Ta
ileik Rd)
3 46
66 49 Tach (Main
64
Kyainge Rd
1 60
26 4 55
59
21 6
Lo
5 9
iM
25
w
e
Ze
Rd
29 51
igy
8
oR
d
Lo
Naung Yarng
i-m
Lake
w
e
44
Rd
43
42
4 d
gR
Yan To Loi-mwe (32km);
Pha
Mong Hypayak;
37 Talay;
To Pha Yang
Gate (50m) Tachileik (163km)
INFORMATION Sports Field................................23 B3 Yat Thaw Mu.............................48 B3

Fax & Telegram Office.................1 B3 Tai Khun Silverworks.................. 24 C3
Hospital.......................................2 D3 Town Hall.................................. 25 C3 SLEEPING
Immigration Office.......................3 B2 Wat Asok...................................26 B3 Barami Motel.............................49 C3
Police Station................................4 B3 Wat Chiang Ing (Keng Ing)........27 B2 Harry's Trekking House...............50 B1
Regional Offices...........................5 C3 Wat Chiang Jan (Keng San)....... 28 C3 Hsam Yawt Guest House...........51 C3
Sunflower Travel & Tours.............6 C3 Wat Chiang Khom (Keng Khom)..29 B3 Kyaing Tong Hotel.....................52 B2
5 Wat Chiang Ying (Keng Yun)..... 30 C2 New Sam Yweat Guest House...53 D2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wat Ho Kat............................... 31 C3 Noi Yee Hotel.............................54 B2
American Baptist Church..............7 B1 Wat Ho Kong............................ 32 C3 Princess Hotel............................55 C3
Central Market.............................8 C3 Wat In....................................... 33 C2 Private Hotel..............................56 D2
Chinese Clan House.....................9 C3 Wat Jom Mai............................. 34 D3 Shein Tip Hotel..........................57 C2
Chinese School...........................10 A1 Wat Jong Kham (Zom Kham)..... 35 C2
Immaculate Heart Cathedral....(see 21) Wat Kae Min............................. 36 C2 EATING
Independence Monument..........11 C3 Wat Mahabodhi Vipassana (Kamathan Golden Banyan Restaurant.........58 C3
Jail............................................. 12 A2 Kyaung)................................. 37 A4 Lauo Tien Lu Restaurant............59 C3
Mangala Kyaung (Wat Wat Naung Kham...................... 38 D2 Lok Thar Restaurant...................60 C3
Tamawtaya)...........................13 C2 Wat Noi Naw.............................39 B2 Mingalar Restaurant.................. 61 D2
Maung Mai Kyaung...................14 C3 Wat Pha Jao Lung (Maha Myat Quickly Caf..............................62 D2
Maung Ming Kyaung.................15 C3 Muni).................................... 40 C3 Seik Tie Kye Restaurant..............63 C2
Mausoleum of the Khn Princes..16 C3 Wat Pha Kaew........................... 41 C3
6 Mosque..................................... 17 D3 Wat Pha That Jom Mon............. 42 C4 TRANSPORT
Naung Pha Gate.........................18 B1 Wat Si Naw................................43 B4 Buses to Tachilek........................64 A3
Paleng Gate...............................19 C3 Wat Tuya...................................44 B4 Buses to Taunggyi......................65 A3
Pottery Works............................20 C1 Wat Yang Kon...........................45 C1 Myanma Airways.......................66 B3
Roman Catholic Mission.............21 A3 Water Buffalo Market................ 46 A3 Pick-Ups to Mong La.................67 C3
St Mary's Convent.....................22 B3 Yang Kham Gate....................... 47 A3 Yangon Airways.........................68 C3
198 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) www.lonelyplanet.com
A water-buffalo market is held twice a week considered the most outstanding example
in an empty dirt lot west of town, just off of Shan-style palace architecture in Myan-
the road leading to Taunggyi. Its interesting mar. The stucco-and-teak structure com-
to observe groups of men huddled around bined Buddhist templestyle pavilions and
these large beasts, grilling their owners as Islamic-looking domes. Despite protests to
if they were dealing with used-car dealers. preserve the building, the Myanmar govern-
Water buffalo cost from US$200 to US$500 ment demolished the palace in 1991 to make
each shipping is not included. way for the unsightly Kyaing Tong Hotel.
On the road leading towards Taunggyi, All thats left of the old palace are the walls
the British-era Roman Catholic Mission (RCM) and a sentinel tower on the hotels perim-
and the 12-year-old Immaculate Heart Cathe- eter. To get an idea of what the old palace
dral are still thriving on a hillside where the domes looked like, check out the Mausoleum
original town was founded 1000 years ago. of the Khn Princes, opposite Wat Chiang Jan.
Visitors are welcome. The mission cares for The compound is walled in and visitors are
nearly 100 orphaned boys, many from Shan not allowed inside, but you can get a good
State hill tribes. view from the monastery on the other side
of the road.
MONASTERIES & TEMPLES
Kengtungs many well-kept monasteries Sleeping
called wats rather than kyaung by the Khn Most hotels offer an airport pick-up service
reflect Shan, Siamese, Burmese and Chinese if you make reservations. Rooms are scarce
influences. during the Chinese New Year festivities at
The most impressive is Wat Jong Kham the beginning of February and during the
(Zom Kham), which features a tall gilded mid-April Water Festival.
stupa topped by a gold hti (pinnacle of a
stupa) inlaid with silver, rubies, diamonds, BUDGET
sapphires and jade, and hung with tiny gold Harrys Trekking House (%21418; 132 Mai Yang Rd,
bells. Legend says that Wat Jong Kham Kanaburoy Village; r US$3-15) At the northern end
dates back to a visit by Gautama Buddha of town, 500m north of Naung Pha Gate,
and that the stupa contains six strands of this backpacker-oriented hotel is owned by
his hair. Most likely the site dates back to Harry, an English-speaking Kengtung native
the 13th-century Chiang Mai migration. who spent many years as a trekking guide in
The temple has been substantially renovated Chiang Mai. A newly built modern annexe
and regilded since then. Wat Jong Kham is has eight immaculate rooms with private
north of the town centre. bathroom and great views of the surround-
Right in the centre of town are a couple ing countryside from the rooftop. There are
of busy and visually striking 19th-century also basic small wooden bungalows, and
temples, Wat Pha Jao Lung (Maha Myat Muni) larger rooms with porches for three to four
and Wat Ho Kong. Aficionados of rare Buddha people. Hot water is hit or miss. For insom-
images will have a field day at Wat In, named niacs theres a daily early-morning market
after the Hindu god Indra. Behind the altar (5am to 8am) on the road right in front of
of the principal sanctuary is a must-see col- Harrys. Cheaper rooms dont include break-
lection of wooden Buddha images. Wat In fast. Harry can arrange all manner of trips to
is on a hill overlooking the lake. surrounding villages.
Construction on Yat Thaw Mu, the com- New Sam Yweat Guest House (%21643; Airport
manding-looking standing Buddha that Rd; s/d US$7/14) Directly opposite Seik Tie Kye
points out over Naung Tung lake, was com- Restaurant, this guesthouse looks some-
pleted in 2002. what neglected. The bamboo bungalows
On a hill to the south of town, Wat Pha look extremely nice from the outside but
That Jom Mon features an older wood-and- are basic inside, though the bathrooms are
plaster sanctuary with good tinwork. The nice and modern.
surrounding hillside provides good views Noi Yee Hotel (%21144; 5 Myaing Yaung Rd; s/d
of the town below. US$5/10) A former royal residence, the Noi
One of the great sights in Kengtung was Yee has seen better days. The rooms are a
to be once the large Haw Sao Pha Kengtung, tad grubby, but the faade at least has some
www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S K e n g t u n g ( K y a i n g t o n g ) 199
character, and theres a pleasant courtyard Lauo Tien Lu Restaurant (Lawt Tin Lu) This is the
out front. longest-running and most reliable Chinese
Shein Tip Hotel (%22208; Airport Rd; s/d US$7/14) restaurant in town its a branch of one
Across the street from Naung Kham lake, owned by the same family in Thailands
Shein Tip is a large green building set back Chiang Khong. Its a simple, open-sided res-
from the road. Loads of potted plants at the taurant with good southern Chinese food.
entrance disguise the fact that inside the Golden Banyan Restaurant (Shwe Nyaung Bin, Ton
hotel are bare-bones concrete rooms, fre- Pho Thong) Kengtungs second-most-popular
quented by truck drivers. Some rooms have Chinese restaurant is near Wat Chiang Jan
squat toilets, while others have Western- (Keng San). Its main feature is the outdoor
style toilets. tables beneath a huge banyan tree. The food
is only fair, but the atmosphere makes up
MIDRANGE for it.
Princess Hotel (%21319; fax 21159; s US$20-25, d Quickly Caf (Airport Rd) This modern student
US$28-35; a) This three-storey place, just hang-out serves up coffee, tea, snacks, pop
south of Paleng Gate, was once probably music and movie-star posters.
the most comfortable in town; today its
rooms are fading, though they have satellite Getting There & Away
TV, air-con, fridge and phone. Like most AIR
modern hotels in this part of Myanmar, Air Mandalay (AM) and Yangon Airways
the amenities come at a price this place (YA) fly between Kengtung and Tachileik
is quite lacking in atmosphere. (US$30 with YA; US$41 with AM), Man-
Private Hotel (%21438; www.ktgprivatehotel.com; dalay (both airlines US$92) and Yangon
5 Airport Rd; s/d US$30/35) Another hotel on the (both airlines US$138). AM flies this circuit
way in from the airport, the Private Hotel twice a week on Monday and Wednesday.
is popular with package tourists. There are YA flies five days a week.
seven cottages in the garden, and double
rooms have tiled floors, windows and small BUS & PICK-UP
verandas. The 456km road between Kengtung and
Travellers who wish to avoid govern- Taunggyi is off limits to foreigners. At the
ment-owned hotels should bypass the Kya- moment only citizens of Myanmar are per-
ing Tong Hotel. mitted to use this road, and they travel in
convoys. Officials claim robbery and con-
Eating tinued fighting between the Yangon gov- N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Seik Tie Kye Restaurant (Best Choice;%21387; Airport ernment and the Shan and Pa-O insurgents
Rd; dishes K1200; h11am-10pm) The English trans- make the KengtungTaunggyi journey too
lation is not an empty boast Seik Tie Kye is hazardous to risk. However, since both the
the best restaurant in Kengtung. On offer are Shan under Khn Sa and the Pa-O have
hotpots and other Chinese and Thai dishes. signed reconciliation agreements with the
The chicken with bean-curd hotpot (K6000) government, the continued cultivation of
is very good and enough for three or four. opium and the production of metham-
Seik Tie Kye also has good ice cream. Service phetamines in some areas seem more likely
is super attentive. Big groups should order reasons to keep foreigners away.
dishes at least an hour in advance.
Mingalar Restaurant (Naung Kham Rd) Heading Mae Sai/Tachileik
out of town via Airport Rd, take the right im- If youre coming to Kengtung from Thai-
mediately after Naung Kham lake to find this land through Mae Sai (see p203), youll find
restaurant specialising in Shan cuisine. Meals that the Myanmar government and local
are served in small private bungalows. The tour agents and drivers have conspired to
grilled fish (K2000) is enough for two. make it difficult for travellers to ride the
Lok Thar Restaurant (chicken & pork dishes K1000) TachileikKengtung bus at local prices. Ar-
For hefty servings of Chinese and Thai food, ranging a ride to Kengtung must be done
try Lok Thar, a banquet-style place with a through an agent. This can be accomplished
very spacious 2nd floor. The spicy Thai-style at the small tourist office next to the immi-
soup is enough for two. gration checkpoint at the border crossing
200 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S A r o u n d K e n g t u n g www.lonelyplanet.com
or at the bus station, where a line of agents for groups of three or more). Overnight
offices is located. Either way, you will have stays in villages are not officially permit-
to complete a form that the driver will show ted, though several travellers report having
on demand at any of the five roadblocks set done so. Because most of the more inter-
up between Tachileik and Kengtung. esting villages are far outside town at the
Foreign passengers are asked to pay in end of rough dirt roads, hiking directly to
Thai baht or US dollars and are charged them is not feasible even if you somehow
US$6 for a seat on the bus, US$14 for a back knew where to find them. A few are within
seat in a Toyota Corolla van, or US$17 for cycling distance.
the front seat. The trip takes around three A trip with a vehicle is thus the way to
to four hours over a recently paved road go, even if costs are substantially higher
through scenes of some of the worst defor- than to other places in Shan territory such
estation in Southeast Asia, as well as nu- as Kalaw and Inle. The villages here are less
merous Akha, Wa and Shan villages. Along exposed to foreigners, though theres a real
the way the main rest stops are Talay, a small unevenness to the level of development be-
town with interesting Shan temples and an tween villages only a few minutes apart.
army post, and the village of Mong Hpayak, One Akha village, for example, may have
the most popular food stop. running water and even limited electricity,
Leaving Kengtung for Tachileik is gener- while an Eng village within shouting dis-
ally easier to arrange and less expensive. tance has neither. Ask your guide whether
Toyota pick-ups leave when full from 5am certain goods such as medicines are appro-
to noon (K7500 per person). Buses leave priate gifts.
when full from 6am to noon and cost
K4000 per person. Hot Springs
West of town on the road to Tachileik is a
Mong La large public hot-springs spa complex (r small/
For information, see opposite. large K300/600; h3-8pm). The bathhouses them-
selves are small, narrow rooms with bathtubs
Getting Around and a spigot to control the volume of water.
Kengtung has a small fleet of motorcycle Shampoo, soap and small towels are avail-
taxis the drivers wear numbered coloured able for sale, so this is a great spot to clean
vests that charge around K200 for a ride up if youre staying at one of the cold-water
within town and K300 for longer rides, guesthouses in town. Its also a nice way to
such as from Harrys Trekking House to wind down after a long day off-roading in a
the town centre. four-wheel drive. Vendors on the grounds
A car or motorcycle taxi from the airport sell noodles and other snacks, so you could
costs around K500. Some hotels might hire easily spend an entire afternoon here. The
out motorcycles an exhilarating way to spa is busiest at weekends. A taxi from town
explore the town and surroundings. Note costs around K500 each way, and drivers are
that helmets may not be on offer. willing to wait.
AROUND KENGTUNG Loi-mwe

Villages li='mVy'
Visiting nearby villages, where most of the Although it lies a little outside the permit-
residents still lead very traditional lives but ted radius, no-one seems to care if you visit
are warm and welcoming to visitors, is a Loi-mwe, 33km southeast of Kengtung.
highlight of any trip to Kengtung. Trips to At over 1600m, this hill station features a
nearby Lahu (Musoe), Akha (Kaw), Akhu number of old colonial buildings and over
(from Yunnan Province in China), Eng, a century-old Catholic church. The main
Palaung, Shan, and Wa villages are permit- attraction, though, is the scenery on the
ted in the company of a guide. Guides can ascent to Loi-mwe, which passes through
be arranged at most of Kengtungs hotels forests, terraced rice fields and a lake. Youll
for around US$25 per person per day; this have to hire a car or motorcycle, as there
price also generally includes transport in a doesnt seem to be any regular public trans-
4WD (rates drop substantially per person port between Kengtung and Loi-mwe.
www.lonelyplanet.com K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S M o n g L a 201
MONG LA turned establishment figure and head of

miu='"l;" the Eastern Shan State Army (ESSA), who
About 85km north of Kengtung lies the declared to widespread disbelief that the
border district of Mong La (or Mengla, as area around Mong La was henceforth to be
its sometimes spelt). Although Mong La is an opium-free zone. This may be some-
mainly a Thai L district, in a deal worked what accurate, as opium has been replaced
out with the Myanmar military its controlby methamphetamine as the regions most
led by ethnic Wa, who once fought against lucrative illicit drug. Poppy plants are on
Yangon troops but now enjoy peaceful display in the museum garden.
relations with the government. Myanmar Many of the paya in Mong La have been
appears willing to relinquish sovereignty built in the past 10 years as part of the ef-
if it means adding cash cold, hard yuan forts of the State Peace and Development
(Y) from Chinese casino tourism to the Council (SPDC) to convert the border areas
government coffers. to Buddhism.
Mong La is entirely Chinese, from the
modern oversized buildings to the currency Sleeping & Eating
used; hardly any Burmese is spoken, which There are several modern hotels spread
makes sense since hardly any Myanmar out along the main road, none accustomed
people live here. Seventeen daily flights to dealing with nonChinese or English-
from other parts of China arrive at the air- speaking tourists. Rooms at the Bai Lai
port not far away on the Chinese side of the Hotel and Paradise Hotel are good value
border, ferrying tourists who come to pe- at Y60. You can also stay with the district
ruse Mong Las well-known wildlife market headman in his Thai L-style house for
and to gamble in the districts casinos. One around Y30 a more interesting experi-
of the largest and plushest is the Oriental ence, though difficult to arrange.
Hotel & Casino, a big pink complex visible Kaw Hlaing Restaurant, on the road that
from almost anywhere in the city. Inside loops above the main thoroughfare, has a
are the usual Chinese and Western games munu in English. On offer are basic chicken,
of chance the setup is that typically seen pork, rice and noodle dishes.
in Macau and on cruise ships in the South
China Sea. Getting There & Away
The casinos look grand and impressive To go to Mong La from Kengtung you must
from far away, but upon closer inspection register at the Kengtung immigration of-
the dirty carpets and chipped paint make fice. The staff at Harrys Trekking House N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
them seem more like buildings Beijing (see p198) can help independent travellers
forgot. The hivelike activity, the swarms accomplish this. You must first arrange a
of workers wearing spiffy uniforms on the seat in one of the Toyota pick-ups (K5000
streets during a shift change at the casinos, to K6500) that idle around in the lot behind
the buzz and clink of yuan being wagered the Wat Chiang Jan and Kyi Lin Star Guest
at the gaming tables it all produces an un- House. The driver will then accompany you
canny sense of a displaced land overlooked to the immigration office, where officials will
by time and national boundaries. comb through files of important-looking car-
The casino parking lots hold more late- bon-copy documents, one of which contains
model private cars than youre likely to see in information about you. More information is
all of Myanmar. The broad main thorough- then added by large and ancient typewriters
fare, of the kind suited as much to military (and the long wait for the process to be com-
parades as to local traffic, divides the town. pleted may cause you to entertain Bourne
The casinos and market are on one side, Supremacylike fantasies about the potential
while most of the housing and small shops of these typewriters as aids in an escape at-
are on the other. There are also plenty of tempt). Your driver will then be handed a
karaoke venues, discos (including a thriving copy of a document that will later be used
gay and transvestite scene) and other staples to admit you to Myanmar (hey, its the way
of modern Chinese entertainment life. it works). Its probably best to let the driver
During 1997 a Drug Eradication Museum was hold on to this, since he bears responsibility
opened by U Sai Lin, a local Wa/Chinese for your safe conveyance. At some point in
202 K E N G T U N G & B O R D E R A R E A S Ta c h i l e i k www.lonelyplanet.com
this process, visit the Kengtung market to Kengtung to the north rather than linger
change kyat or dollars to yuan. here, but its possible to arrange a one-day
There are two checkpoints on the road pass to visit Tachileik from Thailand. Be-
from Kengtung to Mong La. The second, sides shopping for Shan handicrafts (about
not far from Mong La, requires you to pay the same price as on the Thai side everyone
a Y36 (US$5) entrance fee. Theres one final accepts baht) and eating Shan/Bamar food,
hoop to jump through. You must register theres little to do in Tachileik. Most of the
which involves more signatures and several 3000 or so people who cross the bridge to
rubber stamps to another carbon copy at Tachileik daily are Thais who shop for dried
the Mong La immigration office. This is mushrooms, herbal medicines, cigarettes and
nothing more than a desk (staffed by a man other cheap imports from China. A steady
whos often in pyjamas, regardless of the trickle of VIPs from Thailand crosses the bor-
time of day) in a small, nondescript house der to gamble at the large Golden Triangle
on a muddy side street thats impossible Casino outside town on the Mekong River.
to find on your own. The entire journey
from the Kengtung immigration office to Sleeping
the Mong La immigration office takes any- If crossing the border into Thailand is an
where from three to four hours, going up option, youll find the accommodation there
and over mountain switchback roads and better in every respect. All hotels in Tachileik
passing through breathtaking scenery and accept both US dollars and Thai baht (B).
several isolated villages. Dream Flower Hotel (%21318; Padonmar Rd; r
The procedure is repeated in the opposite US$5/200B) Just south of the main intersection
direction, minus the entrance fee. Youre in town, this hotel has clean, if somewhat
expected to hand one of the documents to noisy, rooms with attached bathroom.
the Kengtung immigration office upon your The Mya Shwe Ye Hotel (%51792; 3/52 Mya Shwe
return, but if youre pressed for time or sim- Ye St; r US$18/600B; a) and the Kanne Hotel (r 200-
ply want to avoid the hassle it seems possible 800B) have decent rooms.
to skip this step. The Golden Triangle Hotel, on a hill
The obvious question is: can you cross the overlooking the town, is probably the most
border from Mong La into Daluo, China? comfortable place in Tachileik but is gov-
So far the only third-country nationals that ernment owned.
have been able to cross here have done so in In Mae Sai, on the Thailand side of the
caravans with off-road aficionados who border, the Mae Sai Guesthouse on the river
pay the Chinese and Myanmar governments is recommended.

large sums for permission to cross here.
TACHILEIK Yangon Airways and Myanma Airways
t;xIYlit' stop in Tachileik as part of their daily route
%084 to/from Kengtung, Heho, Mandalay and
Most travellers who come to Myanmar Yangon. For details of road travel to/from
from Mae Sai in Thailand head straight for Kengtung, see p199.
CROSSING THE BORDER TO LAOS

About 19km northeast of Tachileik on the TachileikKengtung road, a smaller road branches off
from the Nam Manyang road and heads east-southeast to the Mekong River, the border between
Laos and Myanmar. At the small town here, Wan Pasak, you can get a boat across the river to
Xieng Kok in Laos. From Xieng Kok theres a road northeast from Muang Sing, which connects
with roads to Luang Nam Tha and Udomxai. You might be permitted to cross into Laos here if
you already possess a valid Lao visa. Then again, you might not! Much depends on the local
political situation, obviously, as well as the mood of local officials. Its not a legal international
border crossing, yet plenty of Burmese and Lao do use it. Sooner or later, however, this could
become an official crossing for all nationalities. The one thing that does seem certain is that you
cannot enter Myanmar from Laos at this border. Then again
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O 203
KAYAH STATE
At the time of research, travel to Kayah State for foreigners was still not permitted, and there
was no prospect of the situation changing anytime in the near future. This small state is wedged
between Shan State to the north and west, Karen State to the west and south, and Thailand to
the east. Eight ethnic groups reside in this mountainous region, including the Taungthu, Padaung,
Yinbaw, Bre, and Kayah, who form the majority.
Until the early 1990s, Kayah rebel groups controlled much of the eastern half of the state. The
Myanmar government has concentrated on securing the capital, Loikaw, and the very important
hydroelectric plant at nearby Lawpita. A ceasefire agreement allowed the government to build
a railway between Aungban and Loikaw. Fighting continues, though; as late as November 2004
there were reports of a government military offensive in the area and thousands of Karenni
families fleeing for the Thai border.
BORDER CROSSING Thailand to Myanmar

At the time of research the Mae SaiTachileik A day pass from Thailand to Tachileik costs
border was open except for a few days during US$5, which you pay to Myanmar immi-
the October 2004 coup. In general you can gration officials at the border crossing. If
expect to be able to cross here although, you hold a day pass youre restricted to a ra-
as with much else in Myanmar, this is de- dius of 5km. Theres a very cursory customs
pendent on the shifting political and secu- check on the Thai side. Upon your return,
rity situation. Thai officials will stamp your passport with
The Mae SaiTachileik border is usually another 30-day visa.
open from 6am to 6pm on weekdays (be You can also enter Myanmar from Tachi-
aware that Thailand time is half an hour leik on a 14-day pass (150B, US$10), which
ahead of Myanmar time), and from 6am to you can get at the border, but this only
9pm on weekends and holidays. The early permits you to go to Kengtung and Mong
closing time on weekdays can be a problem La (on the Chinese border).
if youre driving from Kengtung, given the If you want to enter at Tachileik and go
unpredictability of road travel in Myanmar. on to Inle Lake, Mandalay, Yangon, Bagan
and so on, youll need to arrange the visa
Myanmar to Thailand in Bangkok prior to your trip and then fly
In general, travellers report not having diffi- west from Tachileik or Kengtung. If you N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
culties crossing from Myanmar to Thailand. enter with a Foreign Independent Traveller
However, if you have an expired Myanmar (FIT) visa, you get a 28-day entry-permit
visa youll probably not be allowed to cross. stamp and can travel around Myanmar ex-
On the whole, travel agents and certainly actly as if youd flown in. A word of caution:
government officials will tell you the border travellers report being turned away at the
is either not open in this direction or that in border if their Myanmar visa was obtained
order to cross you must make arrangements online.
through a travel agent and pay through the
nose. Unless the political and security situ-
ation changes, which it always can, this is
simply incorrect.
PYIN U LWIN TO LASHIO
You can get a 30-day Thai visa at Mae Sai The road from Mandalay to Lashio is a rib-
on arrival, or you can arrive at the border bon of hairpin bends crisscrossing the Shan
with a 60-day Thai visa arranged in Yangon. Plateau and passing through Pyin U Lwin
When you exit, officials will fill out a bit of before descending into the Gokteik Gorge,
paperwork and make three copies of your the railway viaduct visible in the distance.
passport (10B). The paperwork takes about The market towns between Gokteik and
half an hour. On the Thai side there will be Lashio, only pit stops for truckers plying
long line of day-trippers if you cross after the main ChinaMyanmar trade route, are
3pm. The entire border-crossing process gems for travellers wishing to get off the
takes approximately an hour. beaten track. Those interested in more than
204 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com
the glittering pagodas that exist everywhere Sights

in Myanmar will discover cool mountain NATIONAL KANDAWGYI GARDENS
settlements architectural mishmashes of amYi'"s;"kn'et;'kI"wyY;w'
bygone eras and more contemporary utili- Run by the Woodland Group (a Singaporean
tarian Myanmar structures and the strik- joint venture), this formerly government-
ing mountain scenery that rises up beyond run 176-hectare garden (%22130; admission
them. K2000, camera/video fee K200/K1000; h8am-5pm) fea-
tures the rich life of 482 species of local
PYIN U LWIN and foreign trees (including the ginkgo
p='wI"l=' tree, which is extinct elsewhere) and 250
%085 species of orchids from around Myanmar.
Few places in Myanmar evoke the vibe of British botanists began building the garden
the British colonial era such as the hill-town in 1915.
resort of Pyin U Lwin. In the cool foothills Admission to the garden includes use
here (elevation 1050m), 69km east of Man- of the inviting L-shaped pool near the en-
dalay, stately colonial-era buildings on the trance. View-hounds can walk up to a new
towns main street house Nepali tea houses Nan Myint Tower, where you can climb 10
or sweater shops, and country cottages sit flights of stairs, or take an air-conditioned
on grassy plots outside town. Some old lift for K1000. Theres a small stupa on a
homes, like the famous Candacraig (im- picturesque islet on the central lake, and
mortalised in Paul Therouxs The Great elevated forest walks. The garden is popular
Railway Bazaar, which makes a stop here) with picnicking familles on weekends and
are now government-run hotels. Trotting holidays. A couple of teashops serve snacks
through it all are pony-led colourful mini- and drinks.
ature wagons that look like replicas from
the Wells Fargo days of the American West. CHINESE TEMPLE
More importantly, its about 6C or 7C Built by Yunnanese immigrants, the col-
cooler than in Mandalay. ourful Chinese temple is unlike other Bud-
Much of the towns populace is decked out dhist sites youll see in Myanmar. Its home
in various fatigues including camouflaged to an orphanage and nursing home within
tennis shoes but not everyone is military. the compound. The shoe-friendly grounds
Many shops cater to the clothing needs of include a six-storey tower with seating
the cadets at the nearby Defence Services areas that are frequently used as hang-out
Academy. spots for betel-nut chewers, studying teens

Peak season in Pyin U Lwin (particularly and couples. Some Chinese-script students
for domestic travellers) coincides with the study calligraphy here.
hottest months elsewhere: March, April
and May. PURCELL TOWER
On the main road in the town centre, the
History Purcell Tower was a present from Queen Vic-
Originally a small Shan Danu village, Pyin toria, who offered an identical tower to
U Lwin was renamed Maymyo (May-town) Cape Town, South Africa. Another version
in 1887 after British Colonel May, of the 5th of the story has it that the clock was made
Bengal Infantry, who was stationed here. in 1934 and paid for by a Mr Purcell, a resi-
From 1896 Pyin U Lwin was a British hill dent of Mandalay who was descended from
station, and during those colonial days an Armenian traders. Whats known for sure is
influx of south Asians moved here. Today that the towers chime still copies Big Ben,
more than 5000 Nepalis and 10,000 Indians playing 16 notes before the hour.
live in the town.
Activities
Information On the southern edge of town, the Pyin
Shwe Htay Internet (per min K25; h8am-9pm) Get U Lwin Golf Club (green fee incl clubs & shoes US$15;
online at this small shop opposite the share-taxi stand. h7am-dusk) is a fairly well-maintained 18-
International calls (about K1250 per minute) can be made hole course. It hosts the annual Water Fes-
here too. tival Golf Cup in April (see p340).
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O P y i n U L w i n 205
0 500 m
PYIN U LWIN 0 0.3 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION Golden Dream Hotel................ 10 B3 SHOPPING

Hospital..................................... 1 B4 Grace Hotel 1.......................... 11 B4 Central Market........................ 20 B3
Police Station.............................2 B3 Grace Hotel 2.......................... 12 B3 La Vie Art Gallery..................(see 20)
1 Shwe Htay Internet....................3 B3 Kandawgyi Lodge.................... 13 C5 Night Market...........................21 B3
Royal Parkview Hotel.............. 14 C5 Pacific World Curio..................22 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Shan Market........................... 23 C3
Chinese Temple........................ 4 D4 EATING
Church of the Immaculate Aung Padamya Restaurant...... 15 D3 TRANSPORT
Conception........................... 5 C3 Diamond Confectionary...........16 B3 Pick-ups to Hsipaw & Lashio....24 B3
Nan Myint Tower......................6 B5 Golden Triangle Pick-ups to Mandalay & Lashio..25 B3
Purcell Tower.............................7 B3 Caf & Bakery........................17 B4 Share-Taxi Stand..................... 26 B3
Htate Tan Restaurant.............. 18 C3 TMD.....................................(see 26)
SLEEPING Lay Ngoon Restaurant............. 19 B3 Win Yadana..........................(see 26)
April Inn.................................... 8 D5
Dahlia Motel............................. 9 C5 To Lashio
Shwe Myan
2 Tin Paya
To Mandalay Train
Station Football U Chanti
To Naung Kan Cantonese Pitch Paya
Statio
Gyi Paya Temple

nR
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Aung To Mya Nanda

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Chantha Hotel (2km); Pwe

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Methodist Paya Kauk Falls (7km);

Church 2 Peik Chin
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National 6
Kandawgyi To National
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Kandawgyi Kandawgyi Gardens
Lake Entrance (100m)
Sleeping IN TOWN
Few of the hotels in the town centre are Rooms in town tend to be basic cheapies. All
licensed to accommodate foreigners. The rates include breakfast. Most rooms dont
most relaxing options many are midrange have a fan.
hotels are to be found south and south- Grace Hotel 1 (%21230; 114A Nan Myaing Rd; s/d
west of town along rolling roads lined by US$5/10) A couple of blocks south of the main
trees often covered in bright-yellow and red strip, this hotel has a garden out the front
blossoms. and more character than the others. The
206 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com
state of the basic rooms (which have private venture includes suites in a converted 1921
bathroom) may depend on the smoking English lodge and new bungalows in the
habits of the previous occupants. garden outside. All accommodation faces
Golden Dream Hotel (%21302; 42/43 Mandalay- Kandawgyi lake, and guests get free entry
Lashio Rd; s without/with bathroom US$3/4, d US$8/6) Run to the nearby National Kandawgyi Gardens.
by a pleasant Indian family, this 1st-floor Putting peace first, there are no TVs or
hotel above a sweater shop has old but clean phones in the rooms.
rooms. Those with shared bathroom have a Mya Nan Dar Hotel (%21922; s/d US$15/20) To-
desk and those with private bathroom are at wards Lashio, about 2km northeast of town,
the back; all come with a fan. this hotel has good rooms with balcony,
Grace Hotel 2 (%22081; 46/48 Mandalay-Lashio TV, desk, fan, carpeted floors and private
Rd; s without/with private bathroom US$4/5, d US$10/8) bathroom with hot water. The area is nice,
Graces second location is friendly but a but its not equal to the south of town for
little musty. Rooms at the front have a bal- atmosphere.
cony. Rooms include two low beds and a Those keen on avoiding government-run
small desk. All showers have hot water. hotels should bypass these (otherwise gor-
geous) places converted from old British
OUTSIDE TOWN BUDGET homes: the Thiri Myaing Hotel (Candacraig),
Dahlia Motel (%22255, 09-20 44153; s US$5-12, d US$10- the Gandamar Myaing Hotel (Croxton) and
18) This traveller-oriented motel, run by an the Nan Myaing Hotel (Craddock Court).
outgoing rock-and-roll Muslim (ie drinks
beer, eats pork sometimes) is an excellent Eating
choice. Its cheapest rooms, in the older wing, Many hotels have restaurants that nonguests
have TV and private bathroom; the bigger can enjoy. There are many very basic Chi-
rooms in the newer wing have bigger TVs nese restaurants on the side streets north
and shiny tiled floors. The staff can lead day and south of MandalayLashio Rd around
treks to Shan villages (US$8). To get to the the clock tower.
hotel, take the first right after Royal Parkview Golden Triangle Caf & Bakery (%24288; Mandalay-
and then turn left at the next fork. Lashio Rd; sandwiches & pizzas K1400-1800; h7am-10pm)
April Inn (%21918; 51F Eindaw St; s/d US$8/16) Its not your average day in Myanmar when
Over 1km from the ring road, April Inn you find this place. This lovely caf, run by
features six bungalows, each with private an American, occupies a grand building, and
bathroom, TV, twin beds and a porch for has wicker seats on the covered deck and
your breakfast. By day the only noise comes a French-style bakery inside. A real cup of
from farmers hoes in the coffee plot; by espresso is K400.
night you may hear some wailing from the Aung Padamya Restaurant (dishes K800; h11am-
karaoke bar (but it winds down before mid- 8pm) Nestled into a neighbourhood a couple
night). Insects happen. If youre biking, its of blocks south of the Shan market, this
easy to get lost after dark. (Take a right at simple Indian restaurant serves chicken,
the fork by the Dahlia Motel, then watch for mutton, fish and veggie curries that come
a sign on the left after 200m or so.) with poppadom and rice. Staff might show
off photos taken at Candacraig.
OUTSIDE TOWN MIDRANGE Lay Ngoon Restaurant (4 Mandalay-Lashio Rd;
Royal Parkview Hotel (%22647; standard s/d US$25/ dishes K1200-2200; h8am-9pm) Known all over
30, superior s US$30, d US$35; ai) For those look- town as being too expensive, the basic,
ing for comfort, the Royal is a heck of a deal. nearly dingy Lay Ngoon nevertheless fills
These 20 stylish wood-floor rooms are set its tables and wooden booths nightly with
on lush grounds, just outside the ring road, local families. The food is definitely good,
and sometimes fill up in advance. Cheaper but its priced as advertised.
rooms have no air-con and a shower instead Htate Tan Restaurant (No 50, 11A Rd) Locals rush
of a bathtub. Theres a small restaurant. here (a block north of the traffic circle by the
Kandawgyi Lodge (%21839, in Yangon %01- Shan market) for excellent Shan food.
202071; fax 22497; www.woodlandgroups.com; Nandar Rd; For after-dark snacks and noodles, the
bungalows s/d US$40/50, ste s/d US$50/60) Opened night market (along Zeigyo Ln, north of
in 2002, this classy retro Singapore joint the central market) gets going at dusk.
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O A r o u n d P y i n U L w i n 207
Several snack shops sell Indian goodies, PICK-UP & TAXI

but the best is near the taxi stand. The Dia- By far the easiest way to/from Mandalay
mond Confectionary (Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h6am-9pm) or Hsipaw is by share taxi. Theres a small
serves coconut and, despite its sugary name, share-taxi stand on MandalayLashio Rd,
mutton puffs (K70) among other snacks. north of the main strip. TMD (%21090), on the
stands west side, handles taxis to Mandalay
Shopping (K3500, two hours); Win Yadana (%22490), on
ART & ANTIQUES the east, sends them to Hsipaw (K4500, three
Pacific World Curio (75 Mandalay-Lashio Rd; h7.30am- hours) and Lashio (K5000, four hours). Its
5.30pm) The aisles of this excellent handicrafts K500 extra for the front seat. Share taxis tend
and antique shop open for nearly four to run from 7am to 2pm or 3pm. Hiring the
decades spill over with Shan wooden whole taxi is about K20,000.
masks, kalaga (embroidered tapestries), White pick-ups wait near the Purcell To-
marionettes, old British clocks, lacquerware wer along the MandalayLashio Rd, going
and other objects. when full to Mandalay (K1000, 2 hours).
La Vie Art Gallery (No 7-8, AM Block, Central Market; Pick-ups going to both Hsipaw (K2000) and
h9am-5pm) Run by English-speaking artist Lashio (K3500) leave at 6am only from the
Muu Muu, this tiny gallery, which faces the banyan tree, opposite the share-taxi stand.
street on the south side of the market, hangs
modern renderings of Myanmar scenes. TRAIN
At the time of research, the little red-brick
LOCAL PRODUCTS train station (% 22021) was sending slow
Pyin U Lwins temperate climate aids the trains daily to Mandalay at 5am and 4pm
growth of many vegetables and flowers. (ordinary/1st class US$2/4, four hours), and
Strawberry fields in the hills around the one north to Hsipaw (US$2/4, six hours) at
town have made strawberry jam a big local 8.30am. The stretch between Pyin U Lwin
product. Strawberry season runs from Feb- and Hsipaw takes in areas the road misses
ruary to April. Youll often see flower stalls and is particularly beautiful.
on the roads outside town. Trains frequently run late. There are a
At the central market you can get local few food stalls outside the station.
jam (about K250), plus a sweet strawberry
wine (K800) and grape wine (K600). One Getting Around
vendor explained the jam-making process: Hotels can arrange bike rental for K1000
clean strawberries, mix in an equal amount or K2000 per day. Pyin U Lwins horse-led N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
of sugar, heat for two hours, store for 18 wagons are another popular means of get-
months, sell jam. ting about; a sample fare between the centre
Owing to the cool nights here, sweaters and Kandawgyi Gardens is K1500 to K2000.
are another popular locally made product. A taxi from the centre to a hotel outside
Youll find them hanging outside stores on town is about K1000 or K1500.
MandalayLashio Rd. Organic coffee made
in the nearby hills at the Golden Triangle AROUND PYIN U LWIN
Caf & Bakery (opposite) is also available; a Most of Pyin U Lwins natural attractions
200g box of beans or grounds costs K1700. are outside town. Most can be reached by
The smaller Shan market, on the northeast a combination of public transport and hik-
edge of town, is busiest in the morning. ing, though many visitors prefer to hire a
share taxi (and possibly a guide) in Pyin U
Getting There & Away Lwin. Ask at your hotel, the Golden Tri-
At the time of research, there were plans to angle Caf & Bakery (opposite) or Pacific
build an airport near Pyin U Lwin. World Curio (left).
BUS Anisakan Falls

Pyin U Lwin has no bus station and an ir- anI'"cxn'" e7txVn'
regular bus service. Its difficult, but perhaps Although a fairly long and steep walk is re-
possible, to hail a bus going between Man- quired to get to the tall, lovely falls (admission
dalay and Hsipaw; ask at your hotel. free), the hike there is worth it. At the village
208 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O A r o u n d P y i n U L w i n www.lonelyplanet.com
of Anisakan, about 9km south of Pyin U Three Shan villages Mogyopyit, Yechando
Lwin on the road to Mandalay, turn right and Ye Ngeye can be visited on the way
at the train station, continue about 600m to Pwe Kauk Falls. Alternatively, from Pwe
to the railway crossing, then turn left on a Kauk you can go on a one-hour hike to U
dirt road and continue for about 800m to a Naung Gu, a natural cave containing several
fork, where you again take a left turn. After Buddhas that is used by local meditators.
about 500m you reach a parking area from You can ask around at Pwe Kauk for a local
where you continue on foot. Its a 45-minute guide to the cave.
descent through a river gorge to reach the Pick-ups bound for Hsipaw and Lashio
falls, which consist of five sections; the third only head this way at 6am from Pyin U
is particularly impressive. Lwin. Its possible to hire a share taxi and
Mandalay-bound pick-ups around the continue on to Peik Chin Myaing for about
market and main road in Pyin U Lwin K8000. Cycling is another option, as the
regularly go to Anisakan village for K300 shrine of the fallen Buddha is reached on a
per person. You should allow at least half a fairly level road.
day for the whole trip. Its possible to ride To visit the Shan villages, you can some-
a bicycle there, but the ride back is more up times hire a bullock cart in Pwe Kauk. The
than down. A taxi from Pyin U Lwin costs Dahlia Motel in Pyin U Lwin (p206) arranges
about K8000 to K10,000; a taxi with guide guided day trips.
is K15,000.
Gokteik Viaduct
Pwe Kauk Falls gut'qip'tt;"
ep"ek;k'ertxn' The unusual Gokteik railway viaduct is 55km
Called Hampshire Falls in British times, northeast of Pyin U Lwin, en route to
Pwe Kauk Falls (admission free) are about 8km Lashio. When, on behalf of the British, the
northeast of town, off the road to Hsipaw. Pennsylvania Steel Co built the Gokteik
Although the falls themselves arent that Bridge over the deep Gokteik Gorge in 1903
spectacular, they make a very pleasant picnic in only nine months, it was the second-
spot. During or just after the rainy season, highest railway bridge in the world. A Brit-
you can swim in the upper reaches, but not ish insurance policy expired years ago, but
at the bottom, where the undertow can be while it was in effect the Myanmar gov-
dangerous. ernment didnt service the viaduct much;
Facing the falls is the now-famous Aung Htu however, the bridge has recently been reno-
Kan Tha, a shrine housing a Buddha that fell vated. Its the oldest and longest modern
here off a Buddha-laden China-bound truck railway bridge in Myanmar, and its age
in April 1997. After the Buddha couldnt be shows: trains slow to a crawl when cross-
hauled back on, the driver (conveniently!) ing the viaduct in order to avoid putting
claimed that the night before he had dreamt undue stress on the structure.
that one of the Buddhas didnt want to leave If you go by train, get off at the sta-
Myanmar. tion before the bridge to get the best view.
TOP FIVE TREKKING AREAS IN NORTHEASTERN MYANMAR

Kalaw (p176) The granddaddy as far as popularity. Most hikes are fun, allowed and not too demanding. Pindaya
and Inle Lake make for good overnight destinations.
Putao (p224) If you have the money and the time, go mountaineering in the remote Himalaya just north of
Putao need we say more?
Namhsan (p213), Kyaukme (opposite) & Hsipaw (opposite) These three towns, listed with the most beautiful
and remote first, are starting points for day trips or longer stays in surrounding villages.
Inle Lake (p181) Besides the trip to Kalaw, there are other destinations closer to Inle in the mountains on
either shore.
Kengtung area (p200) Get out of your 4WD and see hill-tribe villages on foot.
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O K y a u k m e 209
While the area immediately around the be found at a large colonial-style mansion by
bridge is safe, dont go wandering around the train tracks just outside town (the sign
land mines have reputedly been planted says Weddings & Reception Restaurant).
in some areas to fend off insurgents who This place, known by locals as Dogs Man-
might want to destroy the span. Youll only sion, has private modern karaoke rooms
have a few minutes before you must get (K4000 per hour) and a restaurant-bar with
back on the train if youre continuing on to live music on some weekend nights. There
Hsipaw or Lashio. The military supposedly are plans to convert parts of the building into
forbids photo-taking from the bridge, but a hotel.
everybody seems to do it. The same ap- From Mandalay there are early-morning
plies for photography from the train when buses from around 5am to 6am (K2000,
it approaches the bridge. Whether youre six hours) that go to Kyaukme. If you get a
allowed to or not seems to depend entirely Hsipaw-bound bus you can also ask to be let
on the presence of a military officer in your off here. Alternatively, you can hire a share
train car and if the military officer is mo- taxi in Mandalay for roughly the same price
tivated enough to enforce the ban. that you would pay to go all the way to Hsi-
paw (K6000 per person). From Kyaukme to
KYAUKME Mandalay there are several buses (K3000,
ekY;k'mE five hours) that leave when full early in the
Kyaukme sees a trickle of trail-blazing trav- morning. Note that fares are generally more
ellers with a do-it-yourself attitude. Theyre expensive coming from Mandalay.
looking to avoid the social scene in popu- Pick-ups leave regularly for Hsipaw (K200)
lar Hsipaw, rub shoulders with locals, and until around 4pm; a taxi will cost K10,000.
explore the surrounding mountains and
villages. There are several cigar- and paper- HSIPAW
making factories in and around this com- oIep:
pact town. %082
Although there are no government prohi- The outside world feels very far away in
bitions about foreigners trekking in this area, Hsipaw (Thibaw in Burmese). With its dra-
the lack of sanctioned guides and official matic sunsets, quaint small-town air and
information means the activity is frowned narrow footpaths snaking through rice
upon or at least discouraged. This makes paddies, travellers often get stuck here,
it hard to guarantee anything before arriv- their itineraries thrown out of whack after
ing in Kyaukme, but it also means there are they arrive intending only to spend a day N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
more options and greater flexibility in ar- or two. Days are happily confined to the
ranging an itinerary. Two intrepid travellers short distance that separates Mr Charless
report having rented motorbikes from locals guesthouse from Mr Foods restaurant,
and exploring the mountainous region for Mr Books bookshop and Mr Donald (the
two weeks. At the A Yone Oo Guest House nephew of the last Shan prince), and are oc-
(below) ask for U Aung Gyi, a local English cupied by walks to the river or out of town
teacher/guide who can help organise trips to to one of the payas perched on a hillside.
remote, little-visited villages in the region. Some travellers generate theories to explain
Only 11km from Kyaukme is Lwe Sar, where how Hsipaw maintains its bucolic atmos-
the Palaung still live a traditional way of life. phere as if it were a puzzle to decipher. Hsi-
On the way to Lwe Sar is a beautiful lake paw was once the centre of a small Shan
called Naung Phe. State of its own, and its residents look on
Besides the clean and comfortable A Yone Oo the groups of foreigners shuffling around
Guest House (%082-40183; Shwe Phi Oo Rd; s/d with town with friendly smiles.
shared bathroom K4500/6000, with private bathroom K7500/
12,000), there were no other facilities cater- Sights & Activities
ing to foreigners at research time, though A haw sao pha (Shan palace; suggested donation US$1;
several locals harbour some vague tourism- hafter 4pm), known as sawbwa haw in Bur-
related ambitions. mese, still stands at the northern end of Hsi-
The young, hip and karaoke-inclined of paw. Built in 1924, the charming building
Kyaukme not really a large group may is European in design a Shan-style palace
210 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O H s i p a w www.lonelyplanet.com
0 200 m
HSIPAW 0 0.1 miles
A B To C D
Lashio
To Bo Bo Gyi 17 (72km)
18 Nat Shrine (3km); 10
Kantha Kyaung (4km) INFORMATION Hsipaw Nat Shrine.....................11 C4
Hospital........................................1 B3 Mahamyatmuni Paya.................12 A4
1 Police...........................................2 A1 Monastery..................................13 B2
4 Post Office...................................3 B3 Morning Market.........................14 B3
Trekking
Route Telephone Office..........................4 B1 Mosque.....................................15 A3
Mr Book Bookshop.....................16 B3

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Noodle Factory...........................17 B1
2
Bo Tree Nat Shrine.......................5 B2 Popcorn Factory.........................18 A1
Cheroot Factory...........................6 B3 Sandal Factory............................19 B4
13 Cheroot Factory...........................7 A3 School........................................20 A4
Cheroot Factory...........................8 B3 School........................................21 B4
Clock Tower.................................9 B3 Sports Field................................22 B2
Haw Sao Pha (Shan Palace)........10 B1 Tea Traders................................23 B3
Namtu Rd
Stream Zedi........................................... 24 A4
25
Awtha Rd
Dok
36 SLEEPING
2
htaw
(Main Rd
Mr Charles/Myat Yatana Rest

House....................................25 A2
ady
22 Nham Khae Mao Guest House...26 B3

Rive
)
Yamin Shwe Zin (Golden Doll/

Mr Kid) Guest House.............27 A3
r
33
5 Approximate Scale
EATING
Train 16 Ah Kong Kaik Restaurant...........28 A3
Station 23 Burmese Cuisine.........................29 B3
Central
15 3 6 Market Hwai Ta......................................30 B3
38 Law Chun/Mr Food....................31 B3
Madaw Rd 41 Mao Shan..................................32 B3
To Waterfall; 8
Rice Mill 42 40 Nin Wai Aung Teashop..............33 B2
39
3 34 37
Yin Kyan....................................34 B3
35
Aung Thabye Rd 14
7 43 ENTERTAINMENT
To Ruined Mausoleum of 30 9 Cinema......................................35 B3
Sao Pha (8km); 29 31
27 26
Bawgyo Paya (8km);
Kyaukme (35km); 32 TRANSPORT
28 Bogyoke Rd
Mandalay (209km) 1 Boat Dock..................................36 B2
Buses to Lashio...........................37 B3
Buses to Lashio...........................38 B3
20 Buses to Lashio...........................39 B3
Dokhtawady Express Bus to
To Lashio
Mandalay...............................40 B3
Pick-ups/Vans to
24 Mandalay/Lashio....................41 B3
4 Yedagun Express Bus to
Mandalay...............................42 B3
19 Yoma Express Bus to Mandalay..43 B3
21 To Five Buddha Hill (1.5km);

11 Nine Buddha Hill (1.5km)
To Mandalay
(208km) 12
that was located nearby didnt survive WWII means that access to the interior is restricted
bombing. The last sao pha was arrested dur- to a room off the side entrance, which holds
ing the military takeover of 1962 and hasnt only a few photos and a number of books for
been heard from since. This story about sale. Visits are allowed after 4pm. The haw
vanquished royalty is the topic of Twilight sao pha is about a 15-minute walk from the
over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess, a centre of town past the old town jail.
memoir by Austrian-American Inge Sar- One of the busiest religious sites in Hsi-
gent, who was the popular Mahadevi (sao paw is Mahamyatmuni Paya at the southern
phas wife) of Hsipaw from the 1950s until outskirts of town. A shrine in the compound
the takeover. The princes niece and nephew contains a large Buddha image inspired by
take care of the palace and welcome foreign its Mandalay namesake, Mahamuni Paya
visitors, many of whom rave about being (p234).
entranced by the nephews monologue Eight kilometres southwest of town, off
about his familys life story. Its best to go MandalayLashio Rd, is the Shan-style Baw-
with very modest expectations, though (es- gyo Paya. This is the most revered paya in
pecially if the nephew isnt there), since the northern Shan State equivalent to Inle
palace is a residence, not a museum. This Lakes Phaung Daw Oo Paya (see p190). It
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O H s i p a w 211
is said that the sagawa hardwood tree grow- League for Democracy office, curiously lit
ing by the paya bends over at the top in up with ostentatious red lights.
deference to the paya. The place lost some Most days at about 8am, Mr Charles (see
of its charm following renovations in 1995, below) leads a three-hour morning excur-
during which the building was redecor- sion to a village or nearby waterfall. In the
ated to look less Shan and more Bamar, but high season, half-day boat trips (the cost
its situation by the river still gives it some depends on the number of people), includ-
appeal. ing a visit to a kyaung, are also offered to
On a hill to the left, just as you enter the guests. Overnight trips, and train and taxi
city limits of Hsipaw from Bawgyo, is the trips north or south, can be easily organised
overgrown and ruined mausoleum of the sao at Mr Charles Guest House.
pha of Hsipaw.
Hsipaws large central market is best in the Festivals & Events
morning, when Shan and other tribal peo- One of the oldest and largest Shan festivals,
ple from nearby villages come to trade. The the Bawgyo Paya Pwe, is held in nearby Baw-
Dokhtawady River (also called the Myitnge gyo from the moons 10th waxing day to
or Namtu), just east of the market, is cool the first day after the full moon of Tabaung
and clear. (February/March). The Bawgyo pwe still
To catch a great sunset in Hsipaw, walk to draws a large encampment of traders and
either Five Buddha Hill or Nine Buddha Hill. festivalgoers who pay tribute to the old Shan
First cross the bridge on the Lashio road, and ways. Zat pwe a costumed dance-drama
walk about 200m. Look for a path on your based on Jataka (stories of the Buddhas past
right that leads 1.5km to both small hills. lives) is performed nightly. Before dawn
Also worth checking out are looms for on the day of the full moon, hundreds of
weaving shoulder bags, several small cheroot Palaung pilgrims come from all around to
factories and a popcorn factory that employs offer rice to the images.
an alarmingly explosive technique to make
the snack. East of the market are a handful Sleeping
of merchants shophouses that trade in tea Mr Charles Guest House (Myat Yatana Rest House;
grown in the surrounding mountains. %80105; fax 80407; 105 Awtha St; r without bathroom
Visit the hospitable and well-informed K3000, s/d with shared bathroom US$3/6, with bathroom
bookseller Ko Zaw Tun (known as Mr Book US$6/15) For foreign travellers, for better or
to many travellers) at his bookshop on worse, Mr Charles has become synonymous
Nanthu Rd (Main Rd) for reliable advice on with Hsipaw. A 2nd-floor balcony, perfect N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Hsipaw and the surrounding area. He also for an afternoon tea or evening beer, con-
gives out hand-drawn maps to Shan villages tributes to the laid-back social and friendly
that you can hike to from town. If you visit vibe thats not often found in Myanmar.
during the hot season, Mr Book can arrange Mr Charles is just off the main road at
for you to go tubing down the river. Near the northern end of town in a small com-
Mr Books bookshop is the local National pound that includes a new and old annexe
to the original home. Because of noise from
other guests, it can be difficult to sleep in
WARNING the cheapest rooms on the 2nd floor in the
Strange but true: a few shady characters original home. The nicest rooms are in the
in Hsipaw have been known to use the new annexe.
pretext of a local festival to milk foreign- Nam Khae Mao Guest House (%80088; nkmao@
ers out of dollars. Unsuspecting tourists are myanmar.com.mm; 134 Bogyoke Rd; r with shared bath-
asked to pay cash (around US$10) up front room US$3, s/d with private bathroom US$7/10) Mouldy,
for private transport to the village hosting crumbling and in need of a paint job, Nam
the interesting bash. After a long, fruitless Khae Mao is nevertheless friendly. A re-
drive theyre commonly told that they ar- minder that you are just east of the clock
rived too late or had the dates mixed up tower occurs every hour from 7am to 6pm.
and are returned to Hsipaw festival-free for Yamin Shwe Zin (Golden Doll/Mr Kid) Guest
the night. House (in Hsipaw %66; Bogyoke Rd; s/d with bathroom
K2500/3500) West of the clock tower, this
212 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O H s i p a w www.lonelyplanet.com
place has spartan, fairly depressing rooms. willing to poke around and look for it.
Though the family is hospitable, this place One stall just inside the northern entrance
should be a last resort. belongs to the very friendly Aung Kyaw,
nicknamed Mr Bean. It offers a variety of
Eating nutritious and tasty bean salads.
Burmese Cuisine (Namtu Rd; dishes K300; hlunch &
dinner) One of the best places to try authentic Getting There & Away
Burmese cuisine is this small shop opposite BUS
Law Chun (Mr Food). Look for a row of The scouting report for the quality of the
pots, a red sign announcing (appropriately three bus lines that service Hsipaw is not en-
enough) Burmese Cuisine and a list of the couraging. Locals express disdain for Yeda-
curries served. Not all curries are available gun Express; Yoma Express buses look good
every night, but chicken, fish and pork are on the outside but break down frequently;
stand-bys. The vegetable curries, especially and Dokhtawady Express buses are uncom-
the pumpkin, are equally good. When the fortable but dont need repairs as often as
power goes out, which is frequently, can- the others. Buses leave Mandalay at around
dles make things quite romantic. There are 5.30am (K2300). Five or six buses go from
two or three family-style tables. Hsipaw to Mandalay daily at about 6am
Law Chun (Mr Food; Namtu Rd) Part of the Mr (K2300). All of the buses stop in Kyaukme.
wave sweeping through Hsipaw, Law Chun The price of a ticket from Hsipaw to Pyin
(or Mr Food) is swamped with foreign trav- U Lwin is K2300, the same as a ticket all the
ellers during the high season. Convenient way to Mandalay. Buses for Lashio (K600,
and well lit, it has satellite TV and, impor- two hours), which is 72km to the northeast,
tantly for many, an English-language menu depart daily opposite the market, a block
with rice, curry and noodle dishes. west of the Dokhtawady Express stop.
Hwai Ta (Namtu Rd) Next door to Law Chun, Vans and pick-ups to Pyin U Lwin and
this place serves similar rice, curry and Lashio are usually parked alongside the mar-
noodle dishes. Fresh fish is also available. ket on Madaw Rd, across from the Dokhta-
Yin Kyan (hlunch) A few doors south of wady Express stop.
the market and around the corner from the See p244 for information on other public
Dokhtawady bus stop, this excellent small vehicles to Lashio, all of which make stops
Shan eatery has the best noodles in town. in Hsipaw.
Theres no English menu.
Mao Shan (Namtu Rd; hbreakfast & lunch) This TAXI

tasty noodle shop is across the street from The most convenient way to travel between
and a few metres south of the Law Chun Hsipaw and Mandalay is by share taxi. Its
restaurant. very simple to arrange one and to find part-
Ah Kong Kaik restaurant (Mandalay-Lashio Rd) On ners at Mr Charles (see p211; K6000 per
the road into Hsipaw from Mandalay, this person, 3 hours). Drivers tend to try to
place serves decent Shan and Chinese fare, break speed records for dilapidated taxis.
and is a favourite of truck drivers who ply the Its generally more expensive coming from
MandalayLashio Rd. You can spot the res- Mandalay (K10,000 per person, 4 hours).
taurant by the trucks parked along the road. Stand out on Bogyoke Rd near the clock
There are several tea and snack shops tower to flag down a share taxi to Lashio
in town look around the northern and (per person K3000). Most are coming from
southern sides of the market. The rustic Nin Mandalay, Pyin U Lwin or Kyaukme and
Wai Aung Teashop (no English sign), just are already full, so the wait can be long. The
opposite the northern side of the market same goes for taxis to Kyaukme in the other
and next to a big orange-coloured building, direction (the whole taxi costs K10,000).
opens very early and has a good selection
of snacks. Teashops on the southern side TRAIN
of the market tend to stay open late until The MandalayLashio train (ordinary/1st
11pm or so. class US$3/6) departs from Mandalay at
Until mid-afternoon theres good and 4am and arrives in Hsipaw at 3.30pm (with
cheap food to be had in the market if youre luck). To guarantee a seat, tickets should be
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O N a m h s a n 213
purchased at least a day ahead at the Man- where there are a few teashops and an army
dalay train station between 6am and 4pm. checkpoint, before skirting the mountain-
The same train leaves Hsipaw at about 4pm, side through tea plantations that run all the
arriving in Lashio at 7.30pm. The price of a way to Namhsan.
ticket for this leg is US$2/4 for ordinary/1st A cobbled track leads up behind the
class. town, past typical wooden carved houses
Trains also leave Hsipaw at 9.30am daily that cling to the steep hillside, to a couple of
and arrive in Mandalay at around 8pm. Be- paya, a monastery and the green, shady res-
cause of the more civilised departure time, it ervoir that supplies Namhsan with water. It
makes much more sense to take the train back is possible to make day and overnight treks
from Hsipaw to Mandalay and get to Hsipaw to Shan and Palaung villages nearby.
from Mandalay by some other means. If you attempt to come up here in De-
cember or January, consider buying a jacket
Getting Around or thick blanket in Hsipaw before you set
Bicycles are available for rent at Mr Charles out. Once the sun goes down the tempera-
(see p211). Rates are about K500 for the day. ture drops like a stone.
Most places are within easy walking distance.
The only public transport around town is Sleeping & Eating
trishaws, which cost around K200 for a ride Namhsan has no guesthouses, but Daw
from the market to the Shan Palace. May Saw Nu and U Shwe Tun put foreign-
ers up for US$1 a night. Daw May Saw Nus
NAMHSAN house has four beds, and the owner also
nm'cm' runs treks for US$5 a day for two people.
A few pioneering sorts have made it from U Shwe Tuns house is before a fork in the
Hsipaw as far as Namhsan, and all return main road; a sign in front advertises DVDs
raving about the areas stunning beauty, for sale, but unfortunately theres no sign
which is grander and more picturesque than in English. Breakfast is not included in
points further south. The region deserves its the price, but very good food is available.
nickname as the Switzerland of Myanmar. Guests sleep on the floor, and blankets and
Namhsan was the capital of the former pillows are provided.
Shan state of Tawngpeng. It clings to a Several Chinese restaurants are found
1600m-high narrow ridge, surrounded by along the narrow main street. Like the rest
valleys and mountains that rise to 2000m. of the town, they close early (about 9pm).
Most of the inhabitants are Shwe (Golden) There are a limited number of noodle stalls N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Palaung and make a living from tea, al- for breakfast.
though opium poppies are never far away.
In Namhsan and nearby Payagyi, there are a Getting There & Away
number of tea factories where tea is roasted, Trucks and buses leave Hsipaw and return
boiled or pickled. The tea harvest runs from from Namhsan (K3000, 6 hours) when
April to August and, during the monsoon, the number of passengers and amount of
overloaded trucks heading for Mandalay cargo warrant a run. Check with Ko Zaw
are a particular hazard, sometimes block- Tun (Mr Book; see p211) in Hsipaw to find
ing the road for hours or days. out where the truck or bus is parked while
The 80km journey from Hsipaw, on a waiting for passengers. Breakdowns are
road barely maintained since colonial times, common, so you may be better off trying
takes at least six hours; if its blocked by to hire a pick-up in Hsipaw (K30,000). The
trucks the journey can take days. The road old road from Namhsan to Kyaukme is not
passes through the lowland Shan villages of passable by car.
Konzaleik, Mo-te and Mali before crossing
a bridge over the Dokhtawady River and LASHIO
climbing to Panglong (Big Village), a dull l;"Tui"
market town at the junction with the road %082
to the lead, silver, zinc and gold mines at This township of mostly Shan-Chinese and
Namtu, 43km away. The road then descends Chinese inhabitants isnt as pleasant or
to the river again at the small village of Li-lu, traveller-friendly as Hsipaw. Consequently,
214 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O L a s h i o www.lonelyplanet.com
0 400 m
LASHIO 0 0.2 miles
INFORMATION
Hospital...................................................................................1 A4
Inwa Bank...............................................................................2 A4
A B May Day Bookstall...................................................................3 A3
To Mu-se; Police Station...........................................................................4 B2
Chinese Border Police Station...........................................................................5 A3
(153km)
Post Office...............................................................................6 A3
Telephone Office.....................................................................7 B3
1 Thein
Lashio Rd)
(High SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
To Lashio City Hall..................................................................................8 A3
Lashio Gyi Hot Spa Fire Station..............................................................................9 A3
(Big Lashio) (5km) High School............................................................................10 B3
Lashio Degree College...........................................................11 A3
Mahamyatmuni Paya.............................................................12 A3
25 Mansu Market.......................................................................13 B2
Mansu Paya...........................................................................14 B2
Monument............................................................................15 A3
Airport
Rd Mosque.................................................................................16 B4
rt
Airpo Sasana 2500-Year Paya..........................................................17 B2
Union First Baptist Church.....................................................18 A3
2 14
SLEEPING
4 Lashio Motel..........................................................................19 A3
13 New Asia Hotel......................................................................20 B3
To Train Station 17
Thi Da Aye Hotel...................................................................21 B4
(2km) 29 Ya Htaik Hotel.......................................................................22 B3
EATING
11 Jupiter Restaurant..................................................................23 B4
Lashio Restaurant...................................................................24 B4
Pu
ta
Shwe La Win Restaurant........................................................25 B2

7
Rd
Sun Moon Caf.....................................................................26 B4

(Sta
Teashops...............................................................................27 A3
tion
Th
19 ENTERTAINMENT
3
ein
Rd)
15 Cinema..................................................................................28 B4
ni
Sa
n
Rd
6 8
27 10
Kau
TRANSPORT
Ye
3
12 20 Bus Station.............................................................................29 B2
Ka
18
ng S
5
nT
To Hsipaw 22
t
aun
(62km); 9
Mandalay
Thein Ni St
gR
(235km)
Thu Ka
Bogy
d
2 24 Although the government of Myanmar

(Ta
1
Central
nk R
oke S
28
Market allows foreigners to travel from China to
St
d)
Lashio with permits obtained at the consu-

t
26
16
Night 23 late in Kunming (China), it doesnt sanc-
4 Market
tion travel in the opposite direction (see
Kya
r Ph
21
To p222).
yu
St
Quan Yin San
(Chinese Temple; Lashio is in a mountain basin at an alti-
To Shan &
Palaung Villages
Lashio Lay
(Little Lashio)
2km)
tude of 855m clouds may form and de-
liver rain at almost any time of the year. It is
divided into two main districts: Lashio Lay
Lashio is more popular as a day trip or as (Little Lashio) and Lashio Gyi (Big Lashio),
a stopover on the way to/from the Chinese connected by Theinni Rd. Lashio Lay is the
border. newer and bigger of the two districts.
At the southern end of the infamous
Burma Road, Lashio was once off limits to Sights & Activities
foreigners because of its proximity to China Theres a large central market in central Lashio.
(and the hated Chinese communists) as Its not especially colourful or exotic, but
well as ethnic insurgent territory. Since the its quite modern and orderly. The smaller
1950s, the town has been flanked by the Shan Mansu Market (Theinni/Hsenwi Rd), focusing on
State Army (SSA) to the west and south, the fresh produce and foodstuffs, is closer to
Kachin Independence Army (KIA) to the Lashio Gyi. If you want to see people from
north, and the Wa fighters of the Burmese various ethnic groups participating, youre
Communist Party (BCP) to the east. Fragile better off in Hsipaw or Kengtung.
truces with most of these groups since 1989, More interesting than any of the Bud-
along with a tremendous boost in trade with dhist shrines in town is the large and busy
China, have prompted the government to Quan Yin San Temple, 2km away in Lashio Lay.
open Lashio to foreign visitors. Built around 40 years ago, its the main
www.lonelyplanet.com P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O L a s h i o 215
Chinese temple in Lashio and possibly the because the famous Burmese film actor of
largest in Myanmar. the same name paid for its construction.
Mansu Paya stands between Lashio Lay The newly built Mahamyatmuni Paya, next to
and Lashio Gyi on a hill on the western side City Hall, is quite colourful from the street
of Theinni Rd, and is said to be over 250 but looks less interesting the closer you get
years old. More impressive is the nearby to it.
Sasana 2500-Year (Pyi Lon Chantha) Paya, report-
edly built by the last Shan sao pha in the Sleeping
area, Sao Hon Phan. One of the shrines The Chinese-style accommodation in
in the paya complex contains a Bagan-era Lashio isnt especially welcoming. Unless
Buddha image. A second stupa of similar youre breaking up a trip on your way to
name, New Pyi Lon Chantha Paya, sits on Mya the Chinese border, the choice of hotels
Kantha Hill in the northern part of town doesnt really encourage an overnight stay.
and offers good views of the city. The latter Breakfast is not included at any of the fol-
stupa is also known as Kyaw Heins Paya lowing places.
BURMA ROAD
The so-called Burma Rd actually a network of three major routes came about during WWII,
when Japanese invasion forces closed in on Myanmar from the north via China, and from the
south via Thailand. In what was known as the China-Burma-India (CBI) Theatre, Allied supplies
for the ground war fought in Lower Burma were easily flown or shipped in from India. Supplying
the China front, however, required dangerous flights over the 'Hump', a series of high Himalayan
peaks that separate Myanmar and China.
Over 1000 airmen died flying this route, prompting the Allies to look for a new way to supply
Chiang Kai-shek's nationalist Kuomintang (KMT) army, who were fighting the Japanese in western
China. The Yunnanese built the original Burma road from Kunming to Wanting, China, between
1937 and 1939. They then laid an extension into Myanmar from Wanting to Lashio in 1940, for
a total length of 1200km. Early in the war, this LashioKunming route served as the main supply
line for the KMT, but as Japanese pressure from the south increased, the Allies looked for an
alternative route from India.
American General Joseph 'Vinegar Joe' Stillwell proposed the construction of an all-weather,
two-lane road from India to China via northern Myanmar. The plan was to link up not with the
original LashioKunming route, but with a rough dry-weather track developed by the Chinese N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
between Bhamo in southern Kachin State and Yunchang in Yunnan Province, China. British Army
engineers, using a trail created by war refugees fleeing to India from northern Burma, began
building the 800km Ledo Rd from Ledo, Assam (India), to the Bhamo terminus of the Bhamo
road in 1942. Although the engineers originally had 5000 labourers at their disposal, progress
was slow and work was abandoned in May 1942.
A huge contingent of American engineers took over in November 1942; they assembled 35,000
Burmese, Indian, British and Chinese troops to tackle the enormous task of cutting through thick
jungle, upgrading the Bhamo track, and spanning 10 major rivers and 155 secondary streams
between Ledo and Wanting. So many men were lost along the way that the builders sardonically
dubbed the route the 'man-a-mile road'.
Completed in May 1945, the Ledo road also known as Stillwell Rd was maintained until
a year later, when all Allied units were withdrawn from the CBI theatre. The Myitkyina Bridge,
which spanned the Ayeyarwady River south of Myitkyina and was the longest pontoon bridge
in the world, was deemed an obstacle to river traffic and was dismantled in 1947. One of the
chief post-war effects of the BhamoMyanmar road network was the opening up of the Kachin
State remains of the Ledo road, which quickly fell into disuse.
The main LashioKunming route, though in poor condition nowadays, sees much traffic as a
major smuggling route to China for opium, heroin, gems, jade and teak. In the reverse direction,
traders bring finished goods, such as auto parts, pharmaceuticals, processed foods, clothing
and homewares.
216 P Y I N U L W I N T O L A S H I O L a s h i o www.lonelyplanet.com
Ya Htaik Hotel (%22655; Bogyoke Rd; s/d with BUS

shared bathroom US$5/10, with private bathroom US$15/25) From Mandalay there are buses to Lashio
A four-storey Chinese-style place, Ya Htaik (around K3500, eight hours) that operate
has spartan but clean rooms. Shared bath- from the central/main bus centre near the
rooms have squat toilets; larger rooms with corner of 26th and 82nd Sts. Buses operated
private bathrooms are preferable. by five different companies depart daily be-
New Asia Hotel (%23622; San Khaung Rd; r with tween 4am and 6am. Buy tickets at least one
shared bathroom US$8, with private bathroom US$5/10) day ahead to get a seat.
Northeast of the central market, this mod- Buses from Lashio to Mandalay leave
ern four-storey place has simple rooms with at 6am. To break up the trip, its a good
attached bathroom as well as a few dark idea to schedule at least a days stopover in
rooms with shared bathroom. Pyin U Lwin or Hsipaw along the way. The
Thi Da Aye Hotel (%22165; 218 Thiri Rd; s/d US$5/15) main bus station in Lashio is on Theinni
Here the basement singles with squat toilets Rd south of Mansu Paya and near Mansu
are grotty, while the all-concrete upstairs Market.
doubles are a cut above (but thats not saying
much). Some rooms face a mosque, where TRAIN
the call to prayer begins at 4am. Since the MandalayLashio Rd has been up-
The sprawling Lashio Motel, at the in- graded, travelling by bus is much faster (and
tersection of MandalayLashio and Station cheaper) than the train. As usual, though,
Rds, is government owned. the train is the better alternative for those
who are interested in beautiful scenery and
Eating a chance to meet the locals. The No 131 Up
There are several Shan restaurants, large and leaves Mandalay at 4.45am and arrives in
small, near the central market on Ye Kan Lashio around 7pm when its not delayed
Taung Rd (Tank Rd), and a row of good by track conditions (late arrivals arent
teashops west of the post office. In the even- unusual). The Lashio train for Mandalay
ings a night market sets up on the road lead- departs at 5am, and is very cold in the wee
ing south from the southeastern corner of hours of the morning during the cool sea-
the market. son. Along the way youll crawl across the
Sun Moon Caf (Bogyoke St) On the 2nd floor famous Gokteik Viaduct (p208) and wind
of a building near the mosque in the centre around four monumental switchbacks.
of town is this hip caf with a small menu The Mandalay to Lashio fare is US$6
including excellent chicken dumplings for ordinary class and US$12 for a seat in
(K500) and fried chicken and rice (K1000). the only 1st-class coach on the train. From
It may not sound like much, but the rela- Pyin U Lwin the fare is US$10 in 1st class.
tively luxurious dcor glass tables, cush- (Officially, ordinary class isn't available to
ioned chairs, fans, pop music turn the Sun foreigners, but if 1st class is full, it's worth
Moon into a Shangri-la on a hot day. asking. At a pinch, you can just board the
A block east of the market, the Lashio Res- train and wait for the ticket collector to
taurant (Thu Ka St) is reliable for good Bamar come by.)
and Chinese food, while the Jupiter Restau- Tickets for this route can be bought one
rant (dishes K800) on the corner southeast of to seven days ahead, and they sell out very
the cinema, does Chinese food as well as quickly. In Lashio the train station is 3km
several different types of satay. northwest of the centre of Lashio Lay.
There are fewer restaurants in Lashio
Gyi, but Shwe La Win Restaurant (Airport Rd) is VAN & CAR
very good for Chinese and Shan dishes. Small air-conditioned vans (Toyota Super-
roofs) travel from Mandalay to Lashio
Getting There & Away (K8000/6000 for seat at the front/back);
AIR these deliver their passengers to the door,
Although Lashio has an airport and My- but they fill up fast. You can also hire your
anma Airways allegedly flies there once a own car and driver in Mandalay to make
week from Mandalay (US$45), youre better the one-way trip for about US$40. Inquire
off taking the train. at the Nylon Hotel or the Royal Guest
www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA M y i t k y i n a 217
House in Mandalay. As usual, rates vary Information

according to the price of petrol. Snowland Tours (%23498; snowland@mptmail;
The road entrances to Lashio from Man- hMon-Sat) Near the market area, this is the only travel
dalay and from Mu-se, on the border with agency in town and can help with flights and custom-
China, are supposed to close at 6pm. In designed tours in the area.
practice, though, there seems to be plenty of YMCA (%23010; [email protected]; 12
night-time travel in both directions. Myothit Rd) Unreliable Internet access.
If you want to leave town via the northern
entrance (towards Mu-se), you must have Sights & Activities
a permit from the regional military head- Herds of motorcycle taxis and trishaws con-
quarters. Taxi drivers or staff at the New gregate around the train tracks near the
Asia Hotel (opposite) and the government- YMCA and the large bustling market.
owned Lashio Motel, at the intersection Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw is a pretty, gilded
of the MandalayLashio and Station Rds wish-fulfilling stupa on the banks of the
in Lashio, can sometimes help to arrange Ayeyarwady River. The larger Andawshin Paya
these. boasts a silver-plated stupa said to contain
tooth relics and a Buddha footprint; there
are a couple of adjacent monasteries. Other
MYITKYINA TO KATHA religious structures of interest include the Sri
Saraswati Gurkha Hindu Temple, the Ja-me Mosque
A boat trip down the Ayeyarwady, past the and a Taoist-Buddhist Chinese temple.
narrow gorges where the jungle creeps up Most of the Kachin people living in and
to the waters edge, through slow-moving around Myitkyina have been strongly influ-
expanses where everything seems to stand enced by missionaries, and there are around
still and sandbanks threaten to beach the 15 churches in town; most are Baptist, but a
boat, is a chance to witness the lethargic few Methodist and Catholic ones are sprin-
pageantry of river life. Old men and young kled in. About 14km north is Praying Mountain,
children excitedly hail the arrival of the ferry a sacred site for Kachin and Lisu Baptists
as they quickly heft sacks of goods, while and the location of a Bible school and semi-
longyi-clad women wade into the water nary. The town is also home to a small Nepali
to sell delicacies from plates confidently community.
perched on their heads, as if the muddy Only a handful of visitors have visited the
waters were the town square. More than Kachin State Cultural Museum (Youngyi Rd; admis
this, though, the trip north is an opportu- sion US$2; h10am-3pm Tue-Sun) since it was built N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
nity to socialise with Myanmar people on in 1994. On display is the usual collection
the long boat and train rides, where regular of costumes, and Kachin and Shan artefacts
stops are occasions to share food and get to such as pipes, baskets, fishing nets, looms
know others on the same journey. and musical instruments. Most labels are
in Burmese. The museum is approximately
MYITKYINA 3km from the centre of town.
mc'kI"n;"
%074 MYIT-SON
If you dont fly, it takes patience and en- mc'zu
durance to get to Myitkyina, but its the Myit-son, 43km north of Myitkyina, at the
journey that makes it worthwhile. Myit- confluence of the Mayhka and Malihka Riv-
kyina itself, the seat of Myanmar govern- ers, is located at the beginning of the great
ment offices for the region and for official Ayeyarwady River. The Chinese-owned
Kachin ethnic organisations, is mainly ap- Nanthida Hotel overlooks the water. The
pealing as the starting point for trips to return taxi fare from Myitkyina is anywhere
Kachin villages in the area. Only a handful from K8000 to K30,000, depending on your
of foreign visitors venture here, so its likely negotiating skills. It's about an hour each
youll receive lots of friendly attention. way over a very rough road. Some three-
The town is set in a flat valley that is ex- wheel drivers will make the trip for less,
tremely hot in the dry season and very rainy but this is not recommended, because of
during the monsoon. the poor road condition.
218 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA M y i t k y i n a www.lonelyplanet.com
Another spot formerly off limits is the at least) opened in 2001. The slightly musty
jade-mining centre of Hpakan, 148km west rooms have air-con, hot water and TV, and
of Myitkyina. Permission is required and the friendly staff speaks English.
can usually be arranged by hotels in Myit- Pan Tsun Hotel (%22748; fax 22749; s/d US$15/20;
kyina; however, the total cost of US$300, in- a) Rooms in the Pan Tsun, a four-storey
cluding the fee for the two required military place behind the YMCA, have seen better
escorts, is prohibitive to many. Southwest days. Some are quite small, and the carpet
of Kamaing is the huge and serene Indawgyi is showing wear and tear. Nevertheless, the
Lake, home to 120 bird species including staff are professional, and rooms do have
the Myanmar peacock and surrounded by amenities, including air-con, attached hot-
30 rarely visited villages. To reach the lake water bathroom, satellite TV, fridge and
from Myitkyina, take a morning train to international direct dialling (IDD) phone.
the village of Hopin (US$4, four hours). Sumpra Hotel (%25051; [email protected];
From here pick-ups make the 42km trip to 11 Thida Aye Quarter; s/d US$30/35) This hotel, 8km
the lakeside village of Lonton (K2000, two outside town and owned and operated by
hours), which has a guesthouse. a former Kachin official, is a favourite of
government types and business people. The
Festivals & Events spacious rooms, with frazzled carpets and
On Kachin State Day (10 January) a major peeling paint, arent especially good value;
manao (also spelt manau or manaw; the however, each concrete bungalow has a small
important festivals held periodically to pla- porch, and theres a great deck space over-
cate or pay homage to the Jinghpaw nat) looking the river.
in Myitkyina draws Kachin groups from all
over the state and beyond. Eating
A typical manao involves the sacrifice of Bamboo Field Restaurant (%23227; 313 Union St; fish
29 cows and/or buffaloes, one for each of dishes K3000) A short walk from the Aye Chan
the 28 Jinghpaw nat plus one dedicated to Tha Inn, Bamboo Fields is a more devel-
all of them. Participants dance, play music oped restaurant than one might expect to
and drink churu (rice beer). find here. Young government-connected
types and the occasional foreign business-
Sleeping man eat and drink while taking in either
Aye Chan Tha Inn (%23109; 53 Sipinthayar Rd; s/d noncompetitive modelling contests or com-
US$8/15; a) Lit up like a casino at night, the petitive fashion shows where the only cos-
Aye Chan Tha is easily the best value in tume change involves a different-coloured
town. The hotel is quite modern and im- boa. The white-shirted waiters are attentive.
maculately kept, and rooms are attractive The menu includes barbecued meat and
and have satellite TVs. Reviews of the owner fish, and theres a wide selection of spirits
are less glowing, though dont rely on him and beers.
for travel advice, as hes likely to dismiss any Riverview Restaurant (%23780; fish & prawn
unconventional ideas. dishes K2000) As you might expect, this res-
YMCA (%23010; [email protected]; 12 taurant affords fantastic views, so while the
Myothit Rd; s/d with shared bathroom US$5/6, with private quality of the food is secondary, the stand-
bathroom US$7/12; ai) Theres no doubt that ard Bamar and Chinese dishes are satisfying
this is the most traveller friendly and savvy enough. Maybe a beer is all the nutrition
place to stay in Myitkyina. Rooms at the needed after all, sitting and looking for
Y have mismatched furniture and erratic hours arent demanding activities.
water pressure. There was an ant problem A short walk from the YMCA and op-
in some corners of our room, but the mat- posite a church, Shamie Restaurant (curries K900),
tresses were comfortable, and the help and makes ordering one of their delicious cur-
information available overrode other con- ries easy with helpful photos on the wall.
cerns. Breakfast is not included. Kashmir Restaurant (curries K900) also does In-
Xing Xian Hotel (%22281; xingxianhotel@mptmail dian curries and is around the corner, closer
.net.mm; 127 Shan Su; s/d US$20/30; a) Only a few to the YMCA.
blocks from the market and river front, Seikdaichya, one of the best eateries,
this four-storey behemoth (for Myitkyina doesn't look like much but serves quite
www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA M y i t k y i n a 219
reasonable food. Malihku Restaurant and PICK-UP & TAXI

Palay Kyawi Kan Thaya are Kachin restau- The 188km road between Bhamo and My-
rants (serving steamed and barbecued fish) itkyina, which runs parallel to the China
along the river just north of town. Myanmar border, is passable in all weather.
Strictly speaking, you're not supposed to
Getting There & Away travel to/from Myitkyina by road, but in
You can reach Myitkyina by air, boat, bus, practice its quite another story. Several
share taxi or train. However, there are pick-ups leave from in front of the YMCA at
drawbacks to each method of travel, and 8.30am every day. Some drivers are reluctant
the towns inaccessibility, combined with to take foreigners, if only because it takes
the limited number of sights, mean that few even more time to pass through the five or
visitors bother. so army checkpoints, which are primarily in
place to prevent smuggling. To speed up the
AIR formalities, it makes sense to make five cop-
Bagan Air flies to Myitkyina from Yangon ies of your passport and visa to leave at each
on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. My- checkpoint along the way. This also helps
anma Airways (MA) has a flight from convince drivers that you are clued in.
Mandalay to Myitkyina (US$70 one way). Some travellers report that its possible to
Its possible to continue to Putao (US$90 hire a share taxi all the way between Bhamo
return) but prior permission, more easily and Mandalay (K100,000 for six people, 20
pursued in Yangon, is needed. On Wednes- hours).
day, MA makes the flight from Yangon to There are no regular public-transport
Myitkyina via Bhamo (US$180 one way). services along the road between Mogok and
The 25-minute flight from Bhamo to Myit- Myitkyina, as road conditions are quite bad
kyina costs US$35. MA often doesnt fly between Mogok and Bhamo.
according to a strict schedule, especially
during the rainy season, and tickets are TRAIN
difficult to obtain. There is an MA office in Government trains leave Mandalay at 1.40pm
town, but its opening hours are irregular. and 5.45pm daily, and are supposed to arrive
in Myitkyina 24 hours later. In practice it
BOAT often takes longer up to 40 hours due to
Large three-deck passenger ferries dont the poor condition of the rail bed. Derail-
travel north of Bhamo, because the river is ments have occurred in the past, a few re-
too shallow to navigate safely. sulting in deaths. The fare for sleeper/upper N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Foreigners are supposedly barred from class is US$40/27. Tickets should be pur-
taking one of the long, narrow fast boats chased at least three days in advance, espe-
that leave every morning for the seven-hour cially if you want to book a sleeper. See p244
trip from Myitkyina to Bhamo (K8000) for information on buying tickets in Manda-
apparently safety is the issue. This restric- lay. Two semiprivate companies run some-
tion may be lifted in the future but, if its what better trains to Myitkyina on certain
still in place when you visit, a Myanmar days of the week; ask for details at a travel
guide can help secure permission. Its been agency or your guesthouse. The problem is
reported that single travellers, or two to that these services use the same track, and
three travellers at the most, may be able to are therefore subject to the same delays.
pay a small gratuity to the ticket seller and Upper-class seating runs the gamut from
boat captain for their permission. Groups fairly widely spaced, comfortable, thickly
of foreigners boarding the boat would at- cushioned seats that recline all the way back
tract too much attention, so you may be to straight-backed wooden benches with
asked to keep a low profile while still in very thin cushions. If comfort is a concern
the Myitkyina jetty. Once you depart, its and it should be on such a long trip the
quite a comfortable and enjoyable jour- only sure way to know what youre getting
ney. Theres a large, open space in the is to go with a guide, a Myanmar friend or
front of the boat where you can spread a member of staff from a guesthouse to look
out along with groups of locals and their over the trains and cars in person and select
picnics. what you want. Otherwise, its pot luck.
220 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA B h a m o www.lonelyplanet.com
It gets fairly cold at night, so bring warm Paya, in the town centre, features an older
clothes and a blanket. Attendants hire out stupa.
bamboo mats for sleeping on that can be Sein Win, who speaks English, can be
placed under the seats or in the aisle. A found by asking for him at the Friendship
restaurant car cooks good rice and curry Hotel (below). He is a jack of all trades. In
dishes; attendants can also bring the food addition to having built a helicopter (appar-
to your seat. In addition, every stop is a ently inspired by the James Bond films) that
culinary adventure, with some stops long he is more than willing to show visitors,
enough for you to disembark and sit down Sein Win takes foreigners on day trips to
with whatever you find. Kachin villages in the area and to an ele-
All caveats aside, it's a wonderful oppor- phant camp if given notice. Its up to you to
tunity to meet Myanmar people, have real decide what his services are worth, but the
and sustained conversations and maybe standard rate seems to be anywhere from
even play a game of chess or two. US$10 to US$30 per person depending on
the number of people in the group.
Getting Around The Three Star Bookshop sells the Myan-
A number of repair shops, including one mar Times.
directly behind the YMCA (p218), will hire
out motorcycles (per day K6000) to foreign- Sleeping & Eating
ers. Don't think about going too far, as the Friendship Hotel (%50095; [email protected]
quality of the bikes is generally fairly poor. .mm; r with fan & shared bathroom U$5, s/d with private
However, its a very fun way to get around bathroom US$15/25; a) The largest building in
town and see the surrounding countryside. Bhamo, the five-storey Friendship Hotel is
The YMCA will also hire out bicycles for a comforting surprise, especially if you ar-
K200 per day. rive here by boat. Everything is modern and
Covered motorised three-wheelers in My- spick-and-span. The more expensive rooms
itkyina (called thonbeecars thon is three have air-con, phone with IDD service, TV,
and bee is wheel) are everywhere. Taxis are fridge, minibar, and complimentary tea and
available from the airport and opposite the coffee. Breakfast is served in the very cosy
market for trips further afield (such as to bar and restaurant below street level. The
Indawgyi Lake). The average cost of a bicy- staff here, and especially the manager, Moe
cle trishaw around town is K200 during the Naing, are extremely helpful and can book
day and K500 in the evening. boat trips and flights for you. Ask for a map
of Bhamo.
BHAMO Grand Hotel (%50317; Post Office Rd; s/d US$10/15;
bn'"em;' a) Less grand-looking inside than outside,
%074 this hotel is nevertheless a very decent second
For many, Bhamo (ba-maw), 186km south option. The hallways are rather cavernous
of Myitkyina, is the starting point for a and the rooms are large, with Chinese-style
cruise down the mighty Ayeyarwady River dcor and 'extras' such as slippers.
to Mandalay. The town itself deserves more Heaven Tea Shop (dim sum K220; hbreakfast,
attention, though, as its leafier and more lunch & dinner) This place offers a refreshing
charming than Myitkyina, and blessed with change of pace from the usual fare found
quality accommodation. in this part of the country. Don't be fooled
The bustling daily market draws Lisu, by the sign out the front advertising natu-
Kachin and Shan participants from the sur- ral spring water of the same name. Heaven
rounding countryside, though theres little serves a delicious selection of chicken, pork
to see in the way of traditional costumes. A and seafood dim sum in a pleasant outdoor
portion of the old city walls of Sampanago, an setting.
old Shan kingdom, can be seen around 3km Shamie Restaurant (curries K1000) Just a few
north of town though the ride out there doors down from Heaven, the Shamie does
by horse cart is of more interest than the good Indian curries.
overgrown pile of rubble. To get there, tell Sein Sein Restaurant, Crown Restaurant
the horse-cart driver to go to Bhamo Myo and Nanthida Restaurant serve Chinese
Haung (Old City of Bhamo). Theindawgyi food. Yamona Tea Shop is a Hindu-run place
www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA M u - S e & N a m h k a m Va l l e y 221
on the main drag with good samosas and a Getting Around

satellite TV tuned in to a Hindi channel. Horse carts to Bhamo Myo Haung (the old
city) can be hired anywhere in town and cost
Getting There & Away about K400 per person for the return trip.
AIR Bhamo is small enough to visit on foot.
Myanma Airways flies between Bhamo and
Mandalay (US$50, one hour) on Monday MU-SE & NAMHKAM VALLEY
and Friday. This flight originates in Yangon mUzy' nm'xm'" xYi='0Hm'"
the fare all the way from Yangon to Bhamo The Shweli River (called Ruili River on the
via Mandalay is US$130. It then continues Chinese side) forms the border between
to Myitkyina (US$40 from Bhamo). Return Myanmars Shan State and China's Yun-
flights to Mandalay and Yangon leave Bhamo nan Province at Mu-se. Although it extends
at around 2pm. all the way to Lashio (and to some degree
beyond), the Chinese influence is of course
BOAT stronger here than elsewhere in Shan State.
Large ferries ply the Ayeyarwady River be- You're not likely to be allowed to visit Mu-
tween Mandalay and Bhamo (lower deck/ se from Myanmar. However, people on es-
upper deck/cabin US$9/24/54) on Tuesday, corted package tours entering from China
Thursday and Sunday. When the water have received permission to enter Myanmar
level is at its optimum, the upriver journey at Mu-se and travel south to Lashio.
takes 1 days (about the same as the down- Mu-ses once sleepy frontier-town atmos-
river journey), but when the rivers low it phere has been swept away by the bustling
can take as long as 2 days. See p223 for border trade with China. The town's elec-
more details. Compared to lower deck, the tricity is supplied by China, so the power
enclosed upper-deck class is smaller and cuts common around Myanmar are unheard
has fewer people. of here. Chinese tourists flock to Mu-se to
The scenery along the upper reaches of shop, keeping the moneychangers busy.
the Ayeyarwady is very fine, especially north Trucks from Myanmar cross to China
of Shwegu, where the riverbanks are lush with dried fish, rattan, fresh beans and fruit.
with bamboo and other flora and the boat On the return trip from China, the same
passes through steep rock gorges. trucks carry electrical goods, spare parts,
The governments Inland Water Trans- cement and other building components.
port office (where you can buy tickets for Smuggled goods include teak, cigarettes and
the boat) in Bhamo is opposite the round- alcohol. N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
about near Tat Twin Kyaung (a military The territory surrounding Mu-se is one of
monastery). Alternatively, simply ask for the primary pipelines for opium and heroin
help at either of the hotels. smuggling from Shan State to Yunnan Prov-
If you want to stop overnight in Katha ince, and from there to Hong Kong. East of
before continuing by ferry to Mandalay, Mu-se, along the border, there are report-
its worth taking one of the smaller, fast edly several major heroin refineries, as well
long boats from Bhamo (ordinary/1st as methamphetamine labs. This area to the
class K3500/10,000), which take anywhere east is strictly off limits to foreigners.
from five to seven hours, depending on Cut by the Shweli River, the verdant
the number of times the boat gets stuck Namhkam Valley, southwest of Mu-se, is a
on sandbars. A 1st-class ticket will prob- beautiful patchwork of bamboo and rice
ably get you a seat in the pilot house, while paddies. Most of the people living off the
ordinary class means you get a rather land in this area are Shan and other Thai
cramped seat on a wooden or metal bench. ethnic groups. The town of Namhkam is
Bring your own food and water. If travel- renowned as the WWII-era location of
ling all the way from Bhamo to Mandalay Dr Gordon Seagrave's American Medical
by boat, its worth taking the fast boat Center. Doctor Seagrave renounced his as-
from Bhamo to Katha and then the large sociations with the American Baptist Mis-
ferry from Katha to Mandalay. Both afford sion in order to offer medical service free
good opportunities to meet and befriend of Christian proselytisation; people from all
the locals. over the northern frontier states emerged
222 MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA K a t h a www.lonelyplanet.com
from his medical centre trained as doctors inaccessibility. What activity there is picks
and nurses. up during ferry arrivals and departures and
is mostly centred on the riverside road
Sleeping & Eating an excellent place to absorb the rhythm of
Muse Hotel (s/d US$10/15; a) This is the most small-town Myanmar riverine life. Katha
popular place to stay. Rooms in the pri- is easily explored by foot but doesnt see
vatised 40-room Muse have attached hot- many foreign visitors, so you may receive
water bathrooms and air-con but are noisy celebrity-level attention. Located roughly
and a tad grubby. halfway up to Myitkyina, Kathas popula-
There are cheaper places to stay that may tion is a mix of Bamar, Kachin and Chin,
or may not accept foreigners, including the plus a small Nepali minority.
Yan Yan Guest House, Tokyo Motel and
Lucky Hotel. Sights
If youre lucky enough to get permission Katha has a little-known distinction. Eric
to visit Namhkam, you'll find cheap but Blair (known to the world by his pen name,
rustic accommodation at the Cherry Guest George Orwell) was posted here from De-
House, Yadana Theingi Guest House and cember 1926 to June 1927 as a colonial po-
Friendship Guest House. lice officer, and Katha was the setting for his
novel Burmese Days. Most of the sites men-
Getting There & Away tioned in Orwells novel, which is highly
From Mu-se its four or five hours by pick- critical of the British colonial system, are
up or car along the famed Burma Road to still there, including the police station, the
Lashio, a distance of 176km. With the in- huge walled jail, and the old hospital where
creased traffic between Mu-se and Manda- the writer spent some time recuperating
lay, the road to Lashio has livened up with from dengue and befriended an Indian doc-
businesses catering to truck drivers. Pick- tor named Krishnaswami (Dr Veraswami in
ups (K1500 per person) start at about 6am in the novel).
either direction but be warned: they're im- Most interestingly, the old British Club,
possibly packed with people and cargo, and around which much of the novel revolves,
are very uncomfortable. Share taxis with air- is now the headquarters for an agricultural
con are available for K3000 per person. Its coop. The club library and billiard table are
possible to arrange lifts in private cars, but long gone, but the tennis court is, surpris-
any driver who agrees to take you will want ingly, still in use and the easiest way to find
some money for fuel, plus a little extra. the former club. Ask any local for direc-
tions to the tennis court just mimic an
KATHA overhead serve and then follow the path
ks; beside it to the wooden building directly
Compared with Myitkyina to the north and behind it.
Bhamo to the east, Katha is more peaceful Monks from the large monastery on one
and pleasant, partly because of its relative end of Strand Rd welcome foreigners to
MYANMARCHINA BORDER
A bridge over the Shweli River links the two countries. At the time of writing it was not possible
to cross the border from Myanmar into China, but it was possible to cross from China into Myan-
mar if you've brought the proper paperwork from Kunming. A travel agency in the Kunming
Camelia Hotel (%0871-317 6609; 154 East Dong Feng Rd, Kunming) can make the requisite arrange-
ments. The Laotian Consulate happens to be on the same floor. For Y1300 (US$140) the people
at the Kunming Camelia will organise everything you need upon reaching Ruili on the Chinese
side of the border, where a government-approved guide from Myanmar will walk you through
the day-long paperwork maze. From Kunming, Ruili can be reached by air (50 minutes) or by bus
(24 hours). On the Myanmar side, the guide helps change money and coordinates passage by
taxi all the way to Lashio or Hsipaw. There are at least three police checkpoints along this road.
Note that you cannot travel in the opposite direction (ie from Lashio up to Mu-se).
www.lonelyplanet.com MY I T K Y I N A T O K AT HA K a t h a 223
participate in their rather heated but fun and Katha the fares are US$4/28 for lower-
impromtu football games in the afternoon. deck/cabin class. The scenery along this
stretch is quite spectacular, especially north
Sleeping & Eating of Shwegu, when the boat passes through
Katha gets few foreign visitors, and the a steep gorge, and gibbons can be heard
rustic accommodation reflects this. The calling from the thick jungle. Pods of rare
towns two hotels are on Strand Rd, near Irrawaddy dolphins are sometimes spotted
the ferry embarkation point. Breakfast is not north of Katha when the river is low. The
included. Inland Water Transport office in Katha is
Ayeyarwady Guest House (%25140; Strand Rd; opposite the jetty. Staff there can arrange
r K3000) Of the two guesthouses that accept passage with little notice, though to be on
foreigners in Katha, the Ayeyarwady is the the safe side it's better to arrange a ticket in
better choice. Upstairs rooms fronting the Mandalay or Bhamo.
road have views of the river, but this means
that noise is an issue. A shower and squat BUS
toilets are inside. Though a rarely explored option, bus travel
Annawah Guest House (%25146; Strand Rd; s/d between Mandalay and Katha is possible.
K2000/4000) Be sure to take one of the upstairs Golden Lion Express (K3500, 12 hours)
rooms here. Though they are mere wooden leaves at noon from the bus station, a
cubicles, like others on the 1st floor, they do five-minute walk from the jetty. Another
at least get some ventilation. A shower and company, Aunglentaw Express, leaves from
squat toilets are out the back. the village of Palweshwe, directly opposite
Katha has a lively night market with sev- Katha on the other side of the river. Small
eral makeshift noodle joints where you just boats can be hired for the short crossing to
grab a seat on the bench and point to what Palweshwe. This route is closed during the
you want. Myint Myint Restaurant, near the rainy season.
fire station, on a road parallel to Strand Rd,
has very good Burmese curries. Sein Restau- TRAIN
rant does the best Chinese food in town. Trains from Mandalay or Myitkyina go to
Katha and make a stop at Naba, approxi-
Getting There & Away mately 25km west of Katha. A railway spur
BOAT goes from Naba to Katha, but theres only
The most enjoyable way to reach Katha is one train a day and it leaves at 5.30am
by passenger ferry on the Ayeyarwady River (K100, one hour). Trains from Katha to N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
from Mandalay or Bhamo. The large three- Naba leave at 1pm and 5pm. Most people
storey Chinese ferry takes around 24 hours opt instead to take a truck between the two
to Mandalay (a little more going upriver). towns, which is more convenient. Trucks
It costs US$7 for deck class (no chairs wait at the Naba station to take passengers
are provided; you must bring a mat and to Katha (K300, one hour) whenever a train
camp on the lower deck, which is not rec- arrives from Mandalay or Myitkyina. Trucks
ommended in winter, when temperatures from Katha to Naba leave at 2.30pm.
can dip below freezing) and US$42 for a Government trains from Mandalay to
bed in a two-person cabin. Each cabin has Naba (1st/upper class US$12/18) on their
two beds, a washbasin, a fan and a reading way to Myitkyina leave daily at 1.50pm and
light. The toilet and bathrooms are towards 5.45pm. The trip takes about 12 hours (if
the rear, but passengers in cabin class are youre lucky). Trains leave Naba for Man-
given keys to their own facilities (a boon, dalay at 4.50pm and 8.20pm; the earlier
given that deck-class facilities tend to get express train is recommended. Foreign-
fouled rather quickly). The deck below has ers are not allowed in the lower-class cars
a kitchen serving noodles, soups and curry but, unless youre some kind of masochist,
dishes. Snacks are also sold. Ferries ply the you wouldn't want to ride them anyway
river three times a week (but note that the they're little better than cattle cars.
days they run arent set in stone). Privately run trains operated by the
The ferry from Bhamo takes eight hours Mehka Mandalar company depart Manda-
or more to reach Katha. Between Bhamo lay on Wednesday and Sunday at 4.40pm.
224 T H E FA R N O R T H Pu t a o www.lonelyplanet.com
Upper-class seats are US$25. The Malikha against the Myanmar and Indian govern-
Mandalar company runs trains on Monday ments continues.
and Friday, and the fare and departure times
are the same. These tickets can be bought at PUTAO
the Mandalay train station at windows Nos pt;aui
7 and 8. These private trains depart from At an elevation of 402m above sea level,
Myitkyina for Naba (en route to Mandalay) Putao is small and picturesque. During the
on Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday. late British colonial era, a military post called
Fort Hertz was based in Putao. By the end of
WWII most Westerners used this name in-
THE FAR NORTH stead of Putao it still appears on some older
maps. Most of the population of around
One of the least visited regions on earth, 10,000 are Kachin and Lisu, followed by
the far north of Myanmar is undoubtedly Bamar, Shan and various other smaller tribal
appealing to the adventurous traveller. In groups. The Lisu are proficient hunters
a frontier area, with an intact ecosystem, for trade, not sustenance. In an attempt to
old-growth forest and alpine meadows, stop the decimation of rare and endangered
Putao and the surrounding area lie above species, conservationists have focused on
the tropic of Cancer. This zone is character- efforts to provide people in the area with
ised by subtropical conditions up to 2000m, the equally rare but vital mineral of salt.
temperate rainforest from 2000m to 3000m Previously, traders from China (who were
and subalpine snow forest that becomes interested in animal parts for medicines and
alpine scrub above 3000m. The highlands aphrodisiacs) were the only source of this
north of Putao are considered one of the mineral, which is so easily taken for granted
most pristine Himalayan environments in yet so necessary for survival.
Asia and could become a major ecotourism
destination if made accessible to foreigners. Information
The locals often refer to the surrounding Around 300 to 400 foreigners visited the
peaks as the ice mountains. Putao area in 200304. The best time to
One of the smallest ethnic groups north visit is from October to April, when day-
of Putao is the Tawon, the only known time temperatures are quite pleasant and
Asian pygmy group, who are hunters. They nights are cold but rarely freezing.
don't have words for emotional states, but Official permission granted by MTT is
thanks to enterprising missionaries they necessary to visit Putao. This can be ar-
can cite passages from the Bible as an arranged with the assistance of a travel agent
gument for domesticating beasts. Other or with Myanma Airways directly in Yan-
tribes living in the highlands north of Putao gon only and can take from two to three
are the Rawang, Drung, Daru, Nung and weeks to obtain. The cost of a permit starts
Tibetans. at US$35.
The minor gold mining in the region is
not significant enough for the government Sights & Activities
to get involved; however, there are also ruby As might be expected for an area so close
mines, which were given up by the Kachin to multiple remote borders, the army has
as part of their peace treaty with the junta a strong presence (and an apparently un-
in Yangon. Because much of the north is quenchable passion for golf, evidenced by
suboptimal in terms of agriculture, it's been its nine-hole course near the military camp).
largely free of political conflict and violence. Bamboo and wooden handicrafts and medi-
However, the Kachin Independence Army cines made from local plants are on sale at
(KIA), which has offices in Myitkyina, still the Myoma Market in town. A popular post
operates in the Hukuang Valley, where they Sunday morning mass activity is watching
wear uniforms and carry weapons (KIA in videos at a market teashop. Next to the Ma-
Myitkyina goes without either). The Naga, hamuni Paya is a chime bell made from the
still feared because of their reputation as propeller of a wrecked WWII aircraft.
head-hunters, live in the valley and along the Multiple footpaths lead out of town, per-
Indian border, where low-level insurgency fect for a short day hike or as the starting
www.lonelyplanet.com T H E FA R N O R T H Pu t a o 225
point for week-long to month-long treks. on the Nam Lang River and the more chal-
The latter are demanding and cannot be lenging Mayhka River (see p333). One Ger-
undertaken on the spur of the moment: per- man travel company has even mentioned
mission, supplies, camping gear, guides and plans to offer skiing vacations in the moun-
maybe even porters need to be arranged. tains here. A word of caution before signing
If you do jump through the bureaucratic up: the thrills don't come cheap.
hoops and pay the sometimes exorbitant
fees, your efforts will be rewarded. The geog- Tours
raphy and scenery are truly fantastic. Trails Travel agencies in Yangon specialising in
pass through isolated villages, and bamboo trips to the north:
bridges cross sparkling, pristine rivers. The Lisu & Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions (%01-652 809;
cost for a typical 11-day trip, including air- [email protected]; Suite 03-06, Sedona Hotel)
fare from Yangon, guides, porters, food and The same adventurous and enterprising people who run
sleeping equipment, is US$1100. Balloons over Bagan (see p268).
Hkakabo Razi stands 5889m high and is Myanmar Himalaya Trekking & Culture Travels &
snowcapped year round. After forking out Tours Co (%01-227 978; www.myanmar-explore.com;
US$40,000 to the government for the priv- Room 212, Summit Parkview Hotel)
ilege of climbing the mountain, and after Woodland Travel & Tour (%01-202 071; www.wood
two failed attempts, Takeshi Ozaki of Japan landgroups.com; 7 FJV Commercial Centre, Botataung Rd)
and U Nama Johnson of Myanmar reached
the summit in 1996. A protected reserve Sleeping & Eating
around Hkakabo Razi was established the A number of travel agencies run trips to
same year by the government in response Putao and arrange sleeping accommodation
to the tireless efforts of the New Yorkbased for guests in either the government-owned
Wildlife Conservation Society, headed by Rest House, which we dont recommend,
Alan Rabinowitz, author of the very mov- or more likely in camp sites. At the time of
ing and fascinating memoir Beyond the research, Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions (above)
Last Village (p72). Only a handful of for- was in the process of constructing a luxury
eigners have made the 35-day trek from lodge called the Lisu perched above the
Putao to Tahaungdam, the last village before Nam Lang River. Plans indicate that, in ad-
Hkakabo Razi; its an additional nine days dition to a main lodge with two fireplaces,
to base camp. Satellite peaks in adjoining the individual bungalows (designed like tra-
massifs include Namni-Lka (4664m) in the ditional homes) will be centred on an open
Adung Valley and Diphuk-Ha (4360m) in the fireplace. Accommodation will be part of N O R T H E A S T E R N M YA N M A R
Seingku Valley. Phongun Razi (3500m) is a an all-inclusive package arranged through
10- to 11-day trip from Putao; the sum- the travel agency.
mit of it affords views of India to the west. The town has one Chinese restaurant,
Along with hundreds of butterfly species, Khamsuko, near Myoma Market.
the Himalayan black bear, the red panda
and the red goral (small goat antelope) have Getting There & Away
been observed in the region. Foreigners are not allowed to travel to
Rabinowitz also worked to create the Putao by road. Even with permission, the
Hukuang Valley tiger-conservation area, which, narrow, unsurfaced 356km road is passable
at 8400 sq km, is larger than all the Indian only in dry weather. Permission from the
tiger reserves put together. Its also home MTT must be sought to fly here.
to at least 50 rare animal and bird species, Myanma Airways (MA) flies from Yan-
such as the clouded leopard, marbled cats gon to Putao (US$210 one way, four hours)
and the leaf deer. Cameras were installed via Mandalay and Myitkyina on Monday,
throughout the valley in 2002 to record the Friday and Sunday, and from Yangon to
animals movements and numbers. Putao via Myitkyina on Wednesday and
Ultimate Descents (www.ultimatedescents.com), Saturday. Bear in mind that the schedule
a subsidiary of Ayeyarwaddy Expeditions may change every six months or so. The
hopes to pioneer rafting and kayaking trips Myitkyina to Putao leg is US$90 return.
226
Mandalay
mN e l"
The countrys last royal capital, and still an infant at 150 years old, Myanmars second city
is so not Yangon. Quieter, more laid-back and snuggled into its setting on the banks of the
Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, 695km north of the capital, Mandalay spreads lazily along
a wide, flat grid of streets filled less with cars and commuter-packed buses than squeaky
bicycles and trishaws. And dust even the palm trees are caked with the stuff.
Some visitors love it; some could live without it. Mandalays not particularly pretty, but
few visitors to Myanmar skip a few days here. Thats long enough to climb steep Mandalay
Hill, lined with Buddhas and nats (spirit beings), for views of the Shan hills. Its long enough
for a glimpse of the famous Mahamuni Paya, an evening with the Moustache Brothers and
day trips to the remarkable ancient cities hovering at the citys outskirts (see p248). For
some, the best pastime is sitting over tea at dusk and watching kids and adults fly plastic
kites over the rush-hour scene.
After opening borders with China, Mandalay became something of a boom town in the
1990s, though the city remains richly Buddhist, home to some 60% of Myanmars monks,
many of whom reside in the villagelike leafy area southwest of downtown.
HIGHLIGHTS
Mandalays most worshipped site, the Mahamuni Paya (p234) houses a (stolen) Buddha
re-covered in gold leaf daily
The citys best vantage point is from
Mandalay Hill (p229), where, the story Mandalay
Hill
goes, Buddha pointed out the setting of
the future capital
Culture shows: banned jokester heroes
the Moustache Brothers Troupe (p240)
churn out political comedy, while
Mandalay Marionettes (p241) keep the
tradition of puppetry on the stage
Mandalays shopping (p241) is the Mandalay
Marionettes &
countrys best options include old and Culture Show
Shwe ln Bin
new puppets and finely embroidered Kyaung &
kalaga (tapestries) Monk District
Moustache
A bike ride is best through the leafy, Brothers Troupe
M A N D A L AY
off-the-beaten-track Monk District, home

to hundreds of robed monks; the jade
market (p242); and the intricate wooden Mahamuni Paya
monastery Shwe In Bin Kyaung (p234)
TELEPHONE CODE: 02 POPULATION: 801,000 ELEVATION: 74M

www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY H i s t o r y 227
HISTORY The city streets are laid out on a grid system

Despite erroneous references to the con- and numbered from north to south and east
trary, Mandalay is a comparatively young to west. Some people may make a distinction
city, and its time as the capital of the last between eastwest roads and northsouth
Burmese kingdom was short. Most of its streets, but in everyday practice the Myan-
monuments and buildings are therefore mar people use these terms interchangeably,
fairly recent, although some temples long and also the word ln. The eastwest streets
predate the city. For centuries this area of run into the 40s only, while the northsouth
Myanmar was the site of the capitals of the streets start in the 60s and run through to the
Burmese kingdoms; from Mandalay you 80s. For moving across the city quickly, 35th
can easily visit four former royal cities all St serves as the main eastwest thoroughfare,
now deserted. while 80th St is the main northsouth street.
King Mindon Min, penultimate ruler in The two major business thoroughfares are
the Konbaung dynasty, founded the city in 26th and 84th Sts. Its also worth remem-
1857 and began construction of his new bering that, between 35th and 26th Sts, the
capital, which moved from Amarapura in major thoroughfares of 81st and 83rd Sts
1861. In true Myanmar tradition, the new are north-bound one-way streets, and 82nd
palace was mainly constructed from the dis- street is a south-bound one-way street.
mantled wooden buildings of the previous The city centre here called downtown
palace at Amarapura. Mandalays period of on signs and by English-speaking locals
glory was short Mindon was succeeded runs roughly from 21st St to 35th St, between
by the disastrous Thibaw Min and, in 1885, 80th St and 87th St or 88th St. Cutting it in
Mandalay was taken by the British. Thibaw half, eastwest 26th St divides south down-
and his notorious queen were exiled and town (home to many Indians and Nepalis)
the centre of the universe or the golden from north downtown (where theres a not-
city (as it was known) became just another able Shan community).
outpost of the British Empire.
Fifteen years after independence in 1947, Maps
Mandalay slumbered, like the rest of the Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; see p229)
country, through the socialist mismanage- sells a Mandalay map with advertisements
ment of Ne Win and company. However, for K100.
with the reopening of the Burma Road
through Lashio to China the city has been INFORMATION
undergoing an economic boom since the Internet Access
1990s. The money fuelling this boom is Many guesthouses and hotels have a lone
generated by three trades rubies, jade and computer offering Internet access for K1000
heroin and controlled by Kachin, Wa, or K1500 per hour. Shops downtown with
Shan, Kokang and Chinese syndicates. quicker access and a few computers:
The population has broken 800,000, Micro-Electronics Email Service (Map p230; 83rd St,
with new townships springing up along the 23/24; per hr K1000; h9am-8.30pm)
edges of the city, many inhabited by former Winner (Map p230; 83rd St, 22/23; per hr K1000;
squatters once at home in the citys central h8am-8pm)
area. The Chinese presence has grown by a
great deal since the easing of foreign trade
restrictions with Myanmars northerly MANDALAY ADDRESSES
neighbour. Many new office buildings, 10- A street address that reads 66th (26/27)
storey hotels and department stores have means the place is located on 66th St
flourished along downtown blocks. between 26th and 27th Sts. Some of the
longer eastwest streets take names once
M A N D A L AY
ORIENTATION they cross the Shweta Chaung (Shweta

The hill with the huge grounds of old Man- Canal) heading west. Hence 19th St be-
dalay Palace at its base is the natural focus comes Inwa St, 22nd St becomes Pinya St,
of Mandalay. The city sprawls away to the 26th St becomes Bayintnaung Rd and 35th
south and west of the fort, bounded on the St becomes Yangyiaung Rd.
west by the Ayeyarwady River.
228 MA N D A L AY www.lonelyplanet.com
0 1 km
MANDALAY 0 0.5 miles

A B C D
1 Golf Mandalay
Course Hill
Approximate Scale
76th St
iver
y R
Old
wad
Racecourse
4
yar
Aye
16 Military
20 Cemetery
Myauk Pyin 10th St 6
(North Mandalay) 19
11th St 12

2 17
18 7
North Moat St (12th St) 14
14th St 5
al
Mandalay 12th St
Can
Fort Moat
Palace
16th St 14th St
Nandawun
Park
16th St
Culture 15
18th St
31 Museum 10 To Yankin
Inwa St Paya (2.5km)
11
19th St
3
ta
Shwe
20th St
21st St
East Moat St
Myainghaywun
Pinya St Park
22nd St
23rd St
See Central Mandalay Map p230-1 24th St
To Mingun
Ferrry (500m) 25th St
Bayintnaung Rd 21
26th St
29 32 Mandalay Swan 30
27th St Hotel 25 To Peacock
24 34 2
39 35 Lodge (150m)
28th St
4
74th St

63rd St
29th St
65th St
62nd St
Mandalay 1
84th St
85th St
82nd St
66th St
30th St
83rd St
80th St
81st St
70th St
22
71st St
68th St
77th St
31st St 28
32nd St
73rd St
To Gawwein Jetty
for Bagan, Pyay & 33rd St
79th St
Katha Ferries (500m)

76th St
Market
l
ana
34th St
75th St
gC
Yangyiaung Rd
41
aun
35th St
Ch
Thakawun 36th St l
na
Ta
Kyaung 37 To Pyin U Lwin

5 13 3 Ca
Ni (Maymyo; 68km)
we
Kin Wun 27 26 37th St y

Ng
Ya
Th
Kyaung 33 38th St
ing
Yar Entertainment
a
78th St
zar 38
District 39th St
36
Saigaing-Mandalay Rd
8
Can
23
40th St
al
41st St
Mandalay Arts &

Sciences University
M A N D A L AY
6
40
9 To Highway
Bus Station (7km);
Lashio Taxi Stand (7km); Theik Pan St
To Inwa (21km); Airport (45km);
Sagaing (21km) Yangon (695km)
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY S i g h t s 229
INFORMATION Zoological Garden (East Entrance)........17 C2 Minn Thi Ha Teashop...........................33 B5

Main Hospital........................................ 1 C4 Zoological Garden (South Entrance).....18 C2 Oriental House...................................(see 30)
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)........... 2 D4 Zoological Gardens..............................19 C2 Too Too Restaurant............................. 34 C4
New Horizon Travels..............................3 B5
SLEEPING ENTERTAINMENT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel...................20 C2 Mandalay Marionettes &
Asia Centre Driving Range.....................4 C2 Mandalay View Inn.............................. 21 D4 Culture Show..................................35 D4
Atumashi Kyaung.................................. 5 D2 Pacific Hotel.........................................22 B4 Moustache Brothers Troupe.................36 B5
Kuthodaw Paya......................................6 D2 Power Hotel.........................................23 B5
Kyauktawgyi Paya..................................7 D2 Royal City Hotel...................................24 B4 SHOPPING
Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung........................8 A5 Sedona Hotel Mandalay....................... 25 D4 Gold-Leaf Makers.................................37 B5
Mahamuni Paya.....................................9 B6 Tiger Hotel...........................................26 B5 Jade Market......................................... 38 A5
Main Palace Entrance Mann Shwe Gon..................................39 C4
(Foreign Tourist Entrance)................10 D3 EATING Stone-Carvers' Workshops...................40 B6
Mandalay Palace Compound................11 C3 Aya Myit Tar Myanmar Restaurant.......27 B5 Sunflower Arts & Crafts.....................(see 32)
Sandamani Paya...................................12 D2 Barbecue Restaurants...........................28 D4 Temple Paraphenalia............................(see 9)
Shwe In Bin Kyaung.............................13 A5 BBB......................................................29 C4
Shwenandaw Kyaung.......................... 14 D2 Green Elephant.................................... 30 D4 TRANSPORT
Tomb of King Mindon..........................15 C3 Ko's Kitchen.........................................31 B3 Inland Water
Yatanaban Swimming Pool..................16 C2 Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant........32 C4 Transport Office..............................41 A5
Medical Services New Horizon Travels (Map p230; %60767; 122 36th St,
Main Hospital (Map p228; 30th St, 74/77) 78/79; h8am-5.30pm) This is a helpful branch of a depend-
able Yangon agency. Staff can help find long-term drivers,
Money arrange guides, make hotel reservations and sell tickets.
Kyaw Kyaw Aung Email (Map p230; 27th St, 80/81;
h9am-6pm) Has iffy Internet, but can cash American SIGHTS
Express or Thomas Cook travellers cheques at a whopping Mandalay Hill
20% commission. mNel"et;='
Nan Myint (Map p230; 29th St) This shop can use Visa or Many people begin a Mandalay stay at the
MasterCard on purchases of US$100 or more. one place that breaks out of the pancake-
Sedona Hotel (see p238; 26th St) At research time, the flat plain, 230m-high Mandalay Hill (Map p228;
Sedona was the only hotel that accepted credit cards.
Post THE US$10 COMBO TICKET

DHL Express Office (Map p228; 22nd St; %39274) Can- Since 2002 the government has charged
not send packages to the USA, because of the sanctions. foreign tourists a combo US$10 ticket fee
Main post office (Map p228; 22nd St; h9.30am-3pm (for the Mandalay Archaeological Zone)
Mon-Fri) Next door to the DHL office; sends your postcards that includes entrance to Amarapura (p248)
overseas for K75. Mail is free (up to 7000g!) if youre blind. and Inwa (Ava; p251) outside the city, plus
entry to all of the following Mandalay sites
Telephone (easily Mandalays biggest attractions):
Local calls can be made for K200 from street Atumashi Kyaung (p232)
stands all over Mandalay.
Cultural Museum Mandalay (p231)
Central Telephone & Telegraph (CTT; Map p230;
26th St; calls to Europe/North America/Thailand per min Kuthodaw Paya (p232)
US$3.20/4.50/1.40; h7am-8.30pm) Make expensive in- Mahamuni Paya (p234)
ternational calls at this official-looking, unsigned building
Mandalay Palace (p233)
set back from the street.
Paleik Paya (p252)
Tourist Information Shwenandaw Kyaung (p232)
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT; Map p230; %60356;
cnr 68th & 27th Sts; h9am-5pm) The government-run At research time, not all places checked
tourist office, behind the Mandalay Swan Hotel, can book for the ticket; sometimes a secondary en-
package trips to Mogok (per person US$400; minimum of trance bypasses the government fee collec-
M A N D A L AY
two people) or in mid-January to Khamti (aka Naga Land; tor. Some travellers report that local guides
from Mandalay/Yangon US$670/920) to witness the Naga were able to steer them clear of fees in all
peoples New Year celebrations on January 15. Only MTT but the palace. Ten dollars may sound steep,
can arrange trips to these destinations. For either, youll but at least a visit now is cheaper than when
need to book seven days in advance. MTT staff members each sight charged up to US$5 admission.
speak English and sell a Mandalay map for K100.
230 MA N D A L AY C e n t r a l M a n d a l a y www.lonelyplanet.com
CENTRAL MANDALAY 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
A B C D
21st St
88th St
87th St
83rd St
82nd St
81st St
42
Approximate Scale
22nd St
Mosque
27 23rd St
12 14
Fort Moat
2 Shwekyimyint
3 Paya
24th St
Mandalay
84th St
7 8 Palace
18
32
80th St
19 25th St
30 Sacred Heart 52
To Mingun Ferry 28 Cathedral
Clock 43 44
Tower 1
Bayintnaung Rd 23
26th St 20
86th St 38
83rd St
Central
3 Market
Mosque
15 39
81st St
31
29
2
21 24 13
49 27th St
Eindawya
87th St
26
nal
82nd St
Paya Hindu
Eindawya St Hindu
79th St
Temple Hindu 16
Ca
Temple
10 Temple
45
Eindawya-Sintada St 25 34
28th St 11
28th St
Night
St
Market
35
86th
Mosque Police
4 Station
29th St 5 37
46 29th St
eta
Fire Lookout 36
Tower
Shw
50
30th St
30th St Mandalay
83rd St
85th St
Paya
82nd St
84th St
4 Pedestrian
80th St
Setkyathiha Overpass
81st St
Paya
31st St
31st St
79th St
5
78th St
41 47
32nd St
32nd St
22 51 48
40
33rd St
33rd St
17
9
34th St
M A N D A L AY
34th St
6
Father Lafons
35th St Catholic Church
33
To Mahamuni
Paya
INFORMATION Nylon Hotel..........................................18 B2 Night Market....................................... 37 D4

Central Telephone & Telegraph (CTT)....1 D3 Royal Guest House...............................19 C3 Zeigyo (Central Market).......................38 B3
DHL Express Office..............................(see 6) Sabai Phyu Hotel..................................20 C3
Kyaw Kyaw Aung Email..........................2 C3 Silver Star Hotel....................................21 C3 TRANSPORT
Micro-Electronics Email Service...............3 C2 Silver Swan Hotel..................................22 B5 Air Mandalay Office............................. 39 C3
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT)........... 4 D5 Taung Za Lat Hotel..............................23 C3 Leo Express...........................................40 B5
Nan Myint.............................................5 D4 Unity Hotel...........................................24 C3 Mann Shwe Pyi....................................41 B5
Post Office.............................................6 D2 Universe Hotel.....................................25 C4 Monywa & Shwebo
Winner...................................................7 C2 Bus Station.......................................42 A1
EATING Mr Htoo Bicycles...................................43 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Chapati Stand.......................................26 C3 Myanma Airways Office.......................44 C3
Cultural Museum Mandalay...................8 D2 Lashio Lay Restaurant...........................27 B2 New Seven Star Tours..........................45 C4
Judson Baptist Church............................ 9 C6 Mann Restaurant..................................28 C3 Pick-ups to Amarapura,
Nepali Food..........................................29 C3 Ava & Sagaing..................................46 B4
SLEEPING Nylon Ice Cream Bar.............................30 B3 Pick-ups to the Highway
AD1 Hotel............................................10 A4 Produce Market....................................31 B3 Bus Station...................................(see 49)
Bonanza...............................................11 C4 Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe..............................32 D2 Pyay Bus Office....................................47 C5
Classic Hotel.........................................12 B2 Shwe Taung Food Centre.....................33 C6 Pyin U Lwin &
Dream Hotel........................................13 D3 Snack Vendors.....................................34 C4 Hsipaw Bus Ticket Office.................48 C5
ET Hotel...............................................14 C2 Pyin U Lwin Share Taxis.......................49 C3
Mandalay City Hotel............................15 C3 SHOPPING Shwe Airport Taxi................................. 50 C4
Mother's World Hotel..........................16 D3 Blazon..................................................35 D4 Toe Express.......................................... 51 C5
Myit Phyar Ayer Hotel......................... 17 D6 FUJI Film............................................. 36 D4 Yangon Airways Office........................ 52 C3
camera/video camera fee K350/1000). Visitors can taxi the 11th century, but in 1908 the curator of
halfway up along a switchback road (alleg- the Peshawar Museum discovered the actual
edly built with the aid of forced labour), relic casket during excavations. Although
where an escalator leads to the top and an Peshawar had once been a great Buddhist
elevator goes back down (its too steep up centre, it had by that time been Muslim for
for trishaw drivers). Alternatively, you can many centuries; therefore, the British gov-
make the half-hour barefoot climb that ernment presented these important relics to
takes in numerous Buddha and nat shrines; the Burmese Buddhist Society.
there are many pleasant places to stop for Close to the top of the hill is a huge stand-
a rest or a drink. At the top the reward is a ing Buddha image that looks out towards the
full panoramic view the hazy blue outline royal palace with its outstretched hand
of the Shan hills to the east, the Mandalay pointing in that direction. Its not saying
Palace (and city sprawl) to the south and the go back but pointing to where the Buddha
Ayeyarwady to the west. prophesised the location of the future cap-
The camera fees are collected at the top ital. According to legend, the Buddha, ac-
of the hill. companied by his disciple Ananda, climbed
Those walking the whole way will likely Mandalay Hill while on one of his visits to
sweat off some of the previous nights Myanmar. There he prophesied that, in the
chapatis. But the treks not that hard. You 2400th year of his faith, a great city would
can start at either of two entrances on the be founded below the hill. By our calendar
south side (which wind their way up and that 2400th year was 1857 the year King
meet halfway to the top), or make a steeper Mindon Min decreed the move from Ama-
ascent from the west. Two immense carved rapura to Mandalay.
lions guard the southwest entrance to the Those interested in military history can
hill, and the southeast entrance is watched also find a monument to the British regi-
over by the Bobokyi Nat (Boboki spirit). ment that retook the hill from the Japanese
Leave your shoes with the attendants (the in 1945. The monument is in a small build-
fee is K100) or keep them out of view in ing attached to one of the shrines at the top
a bag. For most of the year it makes most of a wide, steep flight of steps.
sense to climb before 10am or after 4pm to
avoid the midday heat. Cultural Museum Mandalay
The first shrine you come to, halfway up mNel"ptiuk'
M A N D A L AY
the hill, contains the so-called Peshawar Rel- This museum (Map p230; %24603; cnr 24th & 80th
ics, three bones of the Buddha. The relics Sts; admission US$10 combo ticket; h9.30am-4.30pm
were originally sent to Peshawar, now in Tue-Sun) features a collection of Mandalay re-
Pakistan, by the great Indian king Asoka. galia, royally commissioned art and palm-
The stupa (Buddhist religious monument) leaf manuscripts, coins, and Bagan-period
into which they were built was destroyed in Buddha images. Its not brilliant, but it can
232 MA N D A L AY S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com
get you out of the sun (or rain); staff mem- one person would take 450 days to read the
bers dont always seem to check if you have complete book. King Mindon convened
the US$10 ticket or not. the 5th Buddhist Synod and used a team
of 2400 monks to read the whole book in a
Sandamani Paya nonstop relay lasting nearly six months! In
cN;mu,i.ur;" 1900 a paper edition of the stone original
To the southeast of Mandalay Hill, close to was printed in 38 volumes, each with about
the bus stop and near the road up to the hill, 400 pages. A 730th slab in the corner of the
is the Sandamani Paya (Map p228). Similar to inner enclosure tells of the construction of
Kuthodaw (below), which is to the east, off this amazing book.
the main road, the slightly run-down San-
damani features a cluster of slender white- Atumashi Kyaung
washed stupas built on the site of King atumrHiekY;='"
Mindons temporary palace while the new Recently rebuilt by convict labour, the Atu-
Mandalay Palace was under construction. mashi Kyaung (Map p228; admission US$10 combo ticket)
King Mindon had come to power after stands a couple of hundred metres south of
the successful overthrow of King Pagan Min, Kuthodaw. Originally built by King Mindon
an operation in which he had been assisted in 1857, at the same time as the Kuthodaw,
by his younger brother Prince Kanaung. this kyaung (Burmese Buddhist monastery)
Mindon tended to concentrate on religious features the traditional Burmese monastic
matters and leave the niceties of secular rule construction a masonry base topped by a
to his brother, but in 1866 Prince Kanaung wooden building but instead of the usual
was assassinated in an unsuccessful revolt multiroofed design it has graduated rectan-
inspired by Prince Myingun. The Sanda- gular terraces. Atumashi was once home to a
mani Paya was built as a memorial to Prince famous Buddha image clothed in kings silk
Kanaung on the spot where he was killed. clothing and with a huge diamond set on its
The paya enshrines an iron image of the forehead, but the image was stolen following
Buddha cast in 1802 by Bodawpaya and the British takeover of the city in 1885. Five
transported here from Amarapura in 1874. years later, a fire gutted the monastery and
Around the stupa lies a collection of 1774 destroyed its contents (including four com-
marble slabs inscribed with commentaries plete sets of the Tripitaka in teak boxes).
on the Tripitaka (Buddhist canon). Another The renovated version is most impressive
project of the venerable U Khanti, they were from outside (the basement area is particu-
erected in 1913. larly betel splattered).
The government doesnt (yet) charge to
visit here. Shwenandaw Kyaung
ernn'"et;'ekY;='"
Kuthodaw Paya Just east of the Atumashi Kyaung stands the
kusiul'et;'.ur;" wooden Shwenandaw Kyaung (Golden Palace Monas-
Frequently dubbed the worlds biggest tery; Map p228; admission US$10 combo ticket). This mon-
book for its surrounding 729 marble slabs astery is of great interest, not only as a fine
(apparently fewer than Sandamanis count, example of a traditional Burmese wooden
but why fuss over details?), the Kuthodaw monastery, but also as a fragile reminder of
Paya (Maha Lawka Marazein Paya; Map p228; admission the old Mandalay Palace. It was once part of
US$10 combo ticket) sees a lot of worship and the palace complex King Mindon lived here,
tourists. The entire 15 books of the Tripitaka and in fact died in the building. Afterwards,
are inscribed on the slabs, each of which is King Thibaw Min had the building disman-
housed in its own small stupa. Building of tled and reassembled outside the walls; it
the paya commenced in 1857, the same time became a monastery in 1880. Its a good thing
M A N D A L AY
work began on the royal palace. Kuthodaw he did, as all the other royal buildings were
was modelled on the Shwezigon Paya at lost to WWII bombs. Its said that Thibaw
Nyaung U, Bagan (see p309). used the building for meditation, and the
It took an editorial committee of over 200 couch on which he sat can still be seen.
to produce the original slabs. It has been es- The building is covered inside and out
timated that, reading for eight hours a day, with carved panels, but unfortunately many
of the exterior panels have weathered badly one days labour per month). The new ver-
and some have been removed. At one time sion sports a concrete construction topped
the building was gilded and decorated with by aluminium roofs. Many visitors abhor
glass mosaics. The carved panels inside are the reconstruction. Considering the toil
still in excellent condition, particularly the taken to build it, many locals do too. The
10 Jataka (past-life stories of the Buddha). pavilions and most of the wall are original.
Kyauktawgyi Paya HISTORY
ekY;k'et;'kI".ur;" The original palace was more than just royal
Directly south of Mandalay Hill (across living quarters; it was a walled city within
66th St from the previous sights) stands Mandalay. It served as the home to two Bur-
the Kyauktawgyi Paya (Map p228), built over mese kings, King Mindon Min (who built
a 25-year period that ended in 1878. The the palace in 1857) and King Thibaw (who
pagodas nice enough, but its fame comes lived here until British forces seized the city
from its central occupant: an 8m, 900-tonne in 1885). Afterwards, the British used the
Buddha, carved from a single block of mar- palace as the colonys government house
ble. The marble block (from the mines of and British Club, packing King Thibaw off
nearby Sagyin) was so colossal, its said, to India.
that 10,000 men spent 13 days transport- The Japanese held Mandalay for much of
ing it from a canal to the current site. Or- WWII. In March 1945, amid fierce fighting
namented with royal attire, the image was from advancing British and Indian troops,
completed and dedicated in 1865. the royal palace caught fire and was de-
Around the shrine are figures of the Bud- stroyed. Only the huge walls and moat, the
dhas 80 arahats (enlightened disciples), ar- base on which the reconstructed palace
ranged in groups of 20 on each of the four buildings stand, and a few masonry build-
sides. In a building in the southeast of the ings and tombs remain of the original pal-
compound are a giant alms bowl and col- ace. Beyond, in the restricted areas around
ourful renderings of King Mindons visit the palace, Myanmar soldiers live in meagre
here in 1865. barracks and grow fruit and vegetables for
Originally, this paya, like its namesake a little extra money.
in Amarapura, would be modelled on the
famous Ananda Pahto of Bagan (p300), but THE SITE
due to a palace rebellion this grand plan was Visitors are allowed to tour the central oval-
not carried through. shaped site, which is surrounded by a ring
Mandalays biggest festival is held at road, and a couple of sites in the field im-
Kyauktawgyi Paya for seven days in early to mediately northeast of the entrance. In the
mid-October to commemorate Thadingyut oval area, several crimson and gold pavil-
(see p341). ions loom ahead. Within the palace compound
(to the left of the Mye Nan Pyathat temple,
Mandalay Palace & Fort where the US$10 combo ticket is asked for,
The overwhelming centrepiece of Manda- or sold) is the 33m watchtower, Nan Myint
lay, the palace compound (Map p228; admission US$10 Saung, where you can climb the spiral stairs
combo ticket; h7.30am-5pm), sprawling south of to get views of the compound and city.
Mandalay Hill, is surrounded by a fort made The central pavilion, just west of the
up of immense 3.2km-long, 8m-high walls Hall of Victory, is the so-called Glass Palace,
and guarded by a 70m-wide moat. Visitors where kings lived. The last building on the
can enter at the east gate only (by trishaw, sites west side is the Culture Museum, which
taxi, bicycle etc), where a road passes off- includes 13 life-size models of former cabi-
road army barracks to the royal palace site, net members in traditional attire; signs in
M A N D A L AY
surrounded by an internal ring road in the English tell their tale. One cabinet member,
centre. Prince Kanaung, is given props for being
The rebuilding of the crimson and gold very clever as he sent young scholars to
palace was stained the use of prison and western (sic) countries to study. (Not ex-
forced local labour in the late 90s (when actly the same message the government gives
young males in Mandalay had to contribute today.)
234 MA N D A L AY S i g h t s www.lonelyplanet.com
About 100m northeast of the oval palace face and even brushes its teeth an event
compound is the tomb of King Mindon. It still worth getting up to see.
has a little of its former gilded glory, when it In the northwestern corner of the outer
was decorated with glass mosaics. An 1898 courtyard, a small building houses six bronze
restoration obliterated all traces of the ear- Khmer figures brought back from Rakhaing
lier craftsmanship. The large open sheds along with the Mahamuni Buddha. Three are
back towards the road contain over 600 lions (the heads of which have been replaced
inscribed stone slabs that were collected by with ones in the Burmese style), two are im-
King Bodawpaya (r 17821819) and were ages of the Hindu god Shiva, and one is Aira-
later moved to the palace from Amarapura vata, the three-headed elephant. Originally,
just before WWII. Other reminders of the these figures were enshrined at Angkor Wat
former glory of the old palace are the Royal in Cambodia; they were taken from Ang-
Mint and the Sabbath Hall, which are also kor by the Thais in 1431. King Bayinnaung
close by. subsequently looted them from Ayuthaya in
Foreign visitors must enter the com- 1564 and brought them to Bago, where in
pound from the gate on the eastern wall. 1663 they were nabbed by King Razagyi of
Rakhaing. (Thats a lot of nabbing.) Accord-
Mahamuni Paya ing to legend, rubbing a part of the image
mh;mu,i.ur;" will cure any affliction on the correspond-
In southwest Mandalay, off the road towards ing part of your own body. Local legend has
Amarapura, stands the Mahamuni Paya (Map it that there were once many more Khmer
p228), one of Myanmars more famous Bud- figures here, but they were melted down by
dhist sites (its also known as Payagyi, or order of King Thibaw to cast cannons for the
Big Paya, or the Rakhaing Paya). The gold defence of the Mandalay Palace.
and crimson site was originally built by King In the southeastern corner of the court-
Bodawpaya in 1784, when a brick road was yard are inscription stones collected by King
constructed from his palace to the payas Bodawpaya, who appears to have had quite
eastern gate. You can still find traces of this a thing for this pursuit.
royal highway. In 1884 the shrine was de- There are many interesting shop stalls at
stroyed by fire; the current one is compara- the entrance to the shrine (though the little
tively recent. stone elephants are cheaper from the stone
The payas fame comes from its shrine carvers to the west; see p242. See p348 before
centrepiece, the highly venerated Mahamuni you buy, though). This was one of the few
Buddha image, which was seized from Mrauk places in the country where photographs of
U (Myohaung) in Rakhaing (Arakan) State Aung San Suu Kyi were openly sold during
in 1784. It was believed to be of great age the long period of her house arrest.
even at that time and it may even have been During the Mahamuni Paya pwe (festi-
cast during the 1st century AD (though val) in early February, thousands of people
many in Rakhaing believe it to date from a from nearby districts make pilgrimages to
legendary visit by the Buddha in 554 BC). Mahamuni. The temple is always a centre
The 4m-high seated image is cast in bronze, of activity including many palm readers
but over the years thousands of devout Bud- and sly would-be guides (have small notes
dhists have completely covered the figure in handy).
a 15cm-thick layer of gold leaf. Only men
are permitted to walk up to the Mahamuni Shwe In Bin Kyaung
image and apply gold leaf. In the rainy sea- era='p='ekY;='"
son it is cloaked in monastic robes. On the lip of a rivulet, this large and elegant
During festivals the image is thronged by wooden monastery (Map p228; 89th & 38th Sts) dates
so many worshippers that caretakers have from 1895, when a pair of wealthy Chinese
M A N D A L AY
installed video monitors in other parts of the jade merchants commissioned it. Called
complex so that the Burmese can pay their simply the teak monastery by many locals,
respects to the Mahamunis video image; the central building stands elevated on tall
youll actually see people bowing down be- poles, and its balustrades and roof cornices
fore the TV screens. Each morning at 4am are covered in detailed engravings. Its in-
a team of monks washes the Mahamunis credibly peaceful and seldom crowded.
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY A c t i v i t i e s 235
The surrounding villagelike neighbour- ACTIVITIES

hood is like a monks district, with hundreds The outdoor Yatanaban Swimming Pool (Map p228;
of robed monks walking to and from smaller admission K200; h5am-6pm), next to the east en-
monasteries on the leafy lanes, or playing trance to the Zoological Garden, is the best
football. One of the other more contem- bet for a cheap dip. A restaurant, bumper
porarily active monasteries, Ma Soe Yein Nu cars and a karaoke club surround the Olym-
Kyaung, is just across the bridge to the south pic-sized pool, which is generally pretty quiet
from Shwe In Bin. during the heat of the day. The kids pool
looked thoroughly urinated in, but the main
Other Sights pool was OK. Pay at the stand under the
The Zoological Garden (Map p228; %60267; admis- bleachers on the far side.
sion K1500; h8am-6pm) has a small collection Asia Centre Driving Range (Map p228; %64583;
of animals. It can be entered from the south club hire per club/half set K300/1500; tray of 60 balls 1st
(north of the palace walls) or from the east, class/dented 2nd class K800/300; h6am-7pm), north
near the Mandalay Hill Resort. of the zoo, has a line of shaded, fan-cooled
Mandalay has several churches and outdoor spots facing Mandalay Hill. You
mosques among the many temples, includ- can hire clubs. Ask here about playing the
ing the Judson Baptist Church (Map p230; 82nd St, nearby golf course (green fee US$30, caddie
33/34), named for the American missionary K500).
who has virtually become a saint in Myan-
mar. Other key churches and mosques are DOWNTOWN WALKING TOUR
marked on the map.
Yankin Paya, perched on Yankin Hill about
3km east of Mandalay Palace, is a good spot Distance: 2.3km
for watching sunsets. You can bike to its Duration: About two hours
base or go by the No 5 bus.
24th St Mandalay
2 Palace
Fort Moat
1
25th St
84th St
4
80th St
Clock
Tower
Bayintnaung Rd
26th St
5
87th St
82nd St
83rd St
81st St
6
27th St
Eindawya St 9
nal
Ca
Eindawya-Sintada St
28th St
28th St
St
8
86th
29th St
eta
M A N D A L AY
Shw
Approximate Scale
30th St 0 200 m
0 0.1 mi
Mandalay
85th St
84th St
7
236 MA N D A L AY M a n d a l a y f o r C h i l d re n www.lonelyplanet.com
Not much of Mandalay can be seen on foot, alleged leader, U Kettaya, received a life sen-
but this loose tour takes in some (mostly) tence. (So take your shoes off.)
secondary sights and the citys most inter- OK, one more paya. Roam south to 30th
esting street life in a few hours. St and head a block east to reach the elevated
Start a block from the Mandalay Palace Setkyathiha Paya (7; Map p230; 30th St; admission free).
moat with tea at the Shwe Pyi Moe Caf (1; It was badly damaged during WWII, but
p240); if the desire strikes, take a cultural was subsequently repaired. Its main point
chaser a block north at the Cultural Museum of interest is the impressive 5m-high seated
Mandalay (2; p231). Head west a couple of Buddha image, cast in bronze by King Bagyi-
blocks to see the lushly shaded and peaceful daw in Inwa in 1823, just before the First
Shwekyimyint Paya (3; Map p230; btwn 23rd & 24th, Anglo-Burmese War broke out. Since then
82nd & 83rd Sts), which considerably predates its been moved to Amarapura in 1849 (dur-
Mandalay itself. Prince Minshinzaw (the ex- ing the Second Anglo-Burmese War) and
iled son of King Alaungsithu) founded it in then returned to Mandalay in 1884 (just be-
1167, during the Bagan period. The shrine fore British troops overtook the city). Reclin-
is notable because it contains the original ing Buddha images can be seen in the paya
Buddha image consecrated by the prince. It courtyard, along with a sacred bodhi tree
also contains many other images, made of planted by U Nu, a former prime minister
gold, silver or crystal, which were collected of Myanmar.
by later Myanmar kings and removed from From here, take a trishaw or walk back
Mandalay Palace after the British occupied via the night market (8; p242) on 84th St. If its
it. These images are only shown to the public after 4pm or 5pm, consider finishing the tour
on important religious occasions. The small, off with a hot chapati at the chapati stand (9;
glass-enclosed stupa (near the east entrance) p239) at the corner of 82nd and 27th Sts.
houses several Buddha images.
Afterwards, take 83rd St south, perhaps MANDALAY FOR CHILDREN
stopping at Nylon Ice Cream Bar (4; p240), then Mandalay has no designated kid zones. Most
turn right onto busy 26th St. Looming ahead children will get more out of the Mandalay
is a clock tower, standing smack-dab in the Marionettes & Culture Show (p241) than
middle of 26th and 84th Sts on the northern the Moustache Brothers Troupe (p240).
side of the relocated zeigyo (central market; The Mandalay zoo (p235) has several ani-
5; see p242). The original market, designed mals to see on shaded grounds. If a pwe
in 1903 by Count Caldari (the Italian first is going theres a lot of fun to be had
secretary of the Mandalay Municipality), was including live music, small rides and bal-
dismantled much to the dismay of locals loon-popping games. (Note that some can
around 1990 and moved here to these two bring a drunken element out as the night
three-storey buildings done in Peoples- wears on, so go early.)
Republic-of-China style. Less atmospheric, Some kids may enjoy taking close-up
for sure, but the market still represents a looks at the moat surrounding Mandalay
fascinating collection of stalls and sells all Palace (p233); theres a shady promenade on
things Myanmar plus a fair assortment of the southern side, not far from downtown.
smuggled goods. Many stores around town sell makeshift
Squeeze past vendors on 27th St to the kites; dusk seems to be the peak hour for
west, then detour onto brick Eindawya St flying them along busy streets, particularly
(where shops sell monk gear) to reach the downtown. Note that some flyers use razor-
nicely proportioned but slightly scruffy webbed string and war with each other.
Eindawya Paya (6; Map p230), which is covered in Plenty of kites dangle from power lines
gold leaf that shimmers on sunny days. King around town.
Pagan Min built the paya in 1847. Eindawya
M A N D A L AY
was the site of one of Myanmars many small FESTIVALS & EVENTS
battles for independence. In 1919 a group of Traditional pwe (small or massive) happen
Europeans who defied the Buddhist ban on all the time, for a wedding, a birthday, a fu-
shoe-wearing within Eindawya were forci- neral, a holiday and so on. Youll see them in
bly evicted by outraged monks. Four monks side streets and payas. Ask a trishaw driver
were convicted by a colonial court, and their if theyve passed one.
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY S l e e p i n g 237
Mahamuni Paya pwe This happens in early February, from the rest, in the most kept-real quarter
when thousands of people from nearby districts make of Mandalay (between the crazy market and
pilgrimages to Mahamuni (see p234). Eindawya Paya), the friendly AD1 is on a
Thadingyut Mandalays biggest festival is held in early to brick lane lined with shops selling gear to
mid-October at Kyauktawgyi Paya (see p233) for seven days. monks. The halls are a little scuffed, but the
27 rooms are clean and cute, with sky-blue
SLEEPING tiles. Breakfast is served on the roof.
If youre just off the bus/train/plane from Classic Hotel (Map p230; %32841; No 59 23rd St,
Yangon, expect greater value for your kyat. 83/84; s/d US$8/16; a) Near Lashio Lay Restau-
If youre staying cheaply, Mandalays guest- rant, in the north of downtown, the Classic
houses huddle in the walkable downtown has tidy rooms with TV; its a bit pricier
and most are up on travel info. than ET Hotel around the corner, without
Budget rooms are those where doubles a real jump up in quality.
are US$16 and under; midrange rooms cost Mothers World Hotel (Map p230; %33627; fax
US$17 to US$35; and top-end rooms are 66802; No 58 79th St, 27/28; s/d US$10/18; a) The
more than US$17. From April to October its streets a little trashy (its behind the train
likely that all places will have empty rooms station), but the hotel has well-kept car-
waiting for you. Try calling at least a day or peted or green-tiled rooms with Chinese-
two ahead at other times. style woodwork; single room No 506 has full
All room rates include breakfast and have views of Mandalay Hill and the Shan hills.
private bathrooms with hot water unless Sabai Phyu Hotel (Map p230; %64506; No 58 81st
otherwise stated. St, 25/26; s/d US$4/8; a) The 20 slightly worn
rooms here have green carpet or bubbly
Budget plastic-tiled floors. There are excellent views
Royal Guest House (Map p230; %65697; No 41 25th St, from the breakfast area on the top floor.
82/83; s US$3-7, d US$6-10; a) In the city centre, Other downtown budget options (by the
Royal Guest House tends to be the cheapie look of their lobbies, theyre far swankier
that fills first. The scrubbed-clean rooms than the ones listed above but have little
are small but well designed. Free breakfast bonus value inside the rooms):
is served in the downstairs dining room. Bonanza Hotel (Map p230; %31031; cnr 28th & 82nd
Guests can bring beer (from outside) to sit Sts; s US$7-10, d US$12-15; a) Higher-priced rooms
in the tasteful garden out the front or on the have a bit more space.
small top-floor terrace. The cheapest rooms Taung Za Lat Hotel (Map p230; %33967; No 60 81st
have fan and shared bathroom; others have St, at 26th St; s/d US$10/15; a) Set up like a midrange
private bathroom with hot water; higher- hotel; no TV.
priced rooms have TV. Tiger Hotel (Map p228; %23134; No 628 80th St; s/d
ET Hotel (Map p230; %65006; No 129 83rd St, 23/24; US$13/15; a) On a dusty road south of downtown.
s US$5-6, d US$8-10; a) This friendly guesthouse Chinese-style woodwork adds some flair, and the front
near the Shan district has basic rooms and rooms have big windows.
a book swap downstairs. Most rooms have
TV; cheaper ones have a fan.
Nylon Hotel (Map p230; %66550, 60757; nylon@ THE AUTHORS CHOICE
mandalay.net.mm; cnr 25th & 83rd Sts; s US$3-5, d US$6-10; Peacock Lodge (%33411, 61429; No 5 Myay-
ai) A modern building above a generator padethar St, off 61st St, 25/26; s/d US$12/18; a)
shop, the Nylon has an array of rooms (most Lost in the back lanes east of the Palace
with air-con, some with TV). Rooms on the walls, the Peacock offers villagelike peace,
4th and 5th floors have big views (room 401 and the owners treat you like part of the
is a good cheapie up there). Free breakfast is family. Guests are likely to be offered a
served in the upstairs dining area. Internet whisky over a leisurely afternoon chat in the
M A N D A L AY
is K1000 per hour. Helpful staff can arrange photo-filled TV room. The seven wooden-
transport, but some guests have paid some floored rooms do fill up in the high season.
extra commission on things like toilet paper Bicycles are available. A library of old books
and taxis. includes a 1938 Mandalay phone book (lots
AD1 Hotel (Map p230; %34505, 09-69 71116; Ein- of British names in there).
dawya Sintada St, 87/88; s/d US$3/6; a) A bit removed
238 MA N D A L AY E a t i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
Unity Hotel (Map p230; %35142; unityhotel@mptmail Dream Hotel (Map p230; %60470; dream.mdy@mptmail
.net.mm; cnr 27th & 82nd Sts; s US$12-16, d US$14-18; .net.mm; No 152 27th St, 80/81; s/d US$12/24; a)
a) Building has a lift. Higher-priced rooms have a small Pacific Hotel (Map p228; %32506; cnr 30th & 78th Sts;
sitting area and a desk. r US$25; a) Across from the train station.
Power Hotel (Map p228; %32406; No 686 80th St,
Midrange 39/40; s/d US$15/20; a)
Many of Mandalays midrange hotels dont Universe Hotel (Map p230; %33246; No 215 83rd St,
reward the extra dollars and seem to run 27/28; s/d US$15/20; a) Asian pop lounge on 10th floor.
off the same template: a 10-storey Chinese-
style building with door guy, elevator and The government-run Mandalay Swan Hotel
rather unloved clean rooms. Here are some is not recommended.
that rise above the norm.
Royal City Hotel (Map p228; %31805; No 130 27th Top End
St, 76/77; s US$13-15, d US$18-20; a) Owned by Mandalays high-end hotels cant compare
the proprietors of the Royal Guest House, with the standards of Yangons.
and likewise the top of its price bracket, Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel (Map p228; %35688;
the polished Royal City often fills up. Its fax 35639; [email protected]; standard r US$90
big rooms, stylishly decked, come with TV, & US$120, ste US$150-$500; as) This former
phone and serious views from the wood- French-run Novotel (now a Thai joint ven-
framed windows. Breakfast is served on the ture) sits impressively between the north end
outdoor/indoor roof garden, facing east for of the Palace and Mandalay Hill. Rooms are
sunrise. fine, but the bathrooms are notably small,
Mandalay View Inn (Map p228; %61119; mandalay even in the suites. The pool is super, though,
[email protected]; No 17B 66th St, 26/27; r US$30- and there are two bars and a restaurant.
35; a) Though theres really no view (other Sedona Hotel Mandalay (Map p228; %36488;
than of the Sedona Hotel across the street), fax 36499; www.sedonahotels.com.sg; cnr 26th & 66th Sts;
this family-style hotel near the Palace is a superior r US$108, deluxe r US$120; as) This pala-
welcoming place with a dozen rooms, which tial hotel (a Singaporean joint venture) faces
wins fans of its guests. The higher-priced the southeastern corner of the palace. Rooms
rooms are worth the US$5, with wood floors are a bit standard for the price, but the pool
and a small balcony. All rooms have satellite sprawls, and the deluxe views of the Palace
TV. Reserve a table ahead. moat and far-off Mandalay Hill cant be beat.
Myit Phyar Ayer Hotel (Map p230; %66521; fax Also, at research time, this hotel was the only
35646; No 568 80th St, 33/34; s/d US$20/25; a) This is one in town that accepted credit cards.
the nicest of the Chinese-style hotels down- Mandalay City Hotel (Map p230; %36136; fax
town. Marionettes and wood statues adorn 61705; [email protected]; s/d US$50/55;
the lushly air-con lobby; rooms have wood as) Opened in 2004, this locally run hotel
floors, sitting areas and satellite TVs. features a lush garden and a lit-at-night pool
Silver Star Hotel (Map p230; %33394; cnr 27th St in a very unlikely location in a lot behind
& 83rd St; s/d US$20/25; a) The high-rise Silver stores (a bus station used to be here). The
Star follows the same template as most mid- hotel seemed to rush its opening (there are
range options, but, opened in 2004, its some awkward room designs and so on), but
newer than most others in this category. its the cheapest hotel in town with a pool.
Rooms are slightly scented.
Silver Swan Hotel (Map p230; %32178; silverswan EATING
[email protected]; No 568 83rd St, 32/33; s US$15-20, Mandalay offers a bit more eating potential
d US$20-25; ai) Rooms atop this towering beyond the usual rice-and-curry shops you
hotel (slightly nicer than some midrange see around the country. But not a lot. Those
deals) come with a view. Pricier rooms have looking for fresh goods can go to the produce
M A N D A L AY
bathtubs (as opposed to showers) and a bit market (Map p230; 86th St, 26/28) off the canal
more space. Some package holidaymakers between 26th and 28th Sts.
fill the rooms in December and January.
Midrange places with similar (but slightly Bamar & Shan
less appealing) rooms than other midrange Too Too Restaurant (Map p228; 27th St, 74/75; meals
options are listed following: K800; h10am-9pm) Many locals vow that this
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY E a t i n g 239
long-running brick-floored hole-in-the-wall Indian & Nepali

serves Mandalays best traditional dishes. Mandalay has many a chapati, veggie curry
Go to the counter at the back and pick-and- and dhal filling grateful tummies, particu-
point what you want catfish curry, prawn larly in crater-in-the-wall restaurants around
fish ball, fried chicken. Everything comes downtown. You can find a cluster on 27th St
with rice and a tableful of condiments. The between 80th and 81st Sts.
soups are tasty too. Nepali Food (Map p230; 81st St, 266/27; dishes K900;
Lashio Lay Restaurant (Map p230; No 65 23rd St; h7am-9.30pm) Our favourite veggie curries
dishes K300-400; h8am-10pm) One of a couple of came from this place, run by a welcoming
great Shan restaurants in the area (and with Nepali family. The thali (dollops of curry
the best food downtown), this two-floor spot served on banana leaves or a metal plate)
is constantly crammed. Two dozen Shan features three curries (the banana-leaf one
dishes (mostly curries with rice, plus several is particularly good), chapati, rice and dhal.
vegetarian options daily) are on offer, served Theres no meat, no alcohol and no eggs.
under blazing fans by attendants sporting a Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant (Map p228; 27th
yellow, green and red Shan flag. St, 74/75; dishes K600-1400; h8am-9pm, closed May) Run
Aya Myit Tar Myanmar Restaurant (Map p228; by a smiling Indian Catholic family, this
81st St; meals K800-1900; h8.30am-9.30pm) Near the traveller-oriented restaurant serves all veggie
Moustache Brothers and between Maha- meals (the sign out the front says, be kind to
muni Paya and downtown, this airy two- animals by not eating them). The tasty las-
room restaurant sees a busy local crowd. sis are made with purified water. Also there
Staff members speak minimal English, but are plenty of chapati meals (aubergine dip
theres an English menu for traditional with vegetables is a nice choice) and Western
dishes including lobster curry for K1900 breakfasts. The two-floor restaurant/home is
that come with the usual condiments. down a lane, roughly midway between 74th
Green Elephant (Map p228; %61237; No 3H 27th and 75th Sts. The family also runs an impres-
St; curries K2000-4000, soups K1000-1500; h10am-9pm) sive antiques shop (see p242).
This great upscale restaurant, one of a few in
the area, occupies a pretty colonial-era build- Chinese
ing. There are bamboo-covered areas in the Several Chinese restaurants can be found
garden, and period-piece relics (including on 83rd St between 25th and 26th Sts, not
a green elephant called Freddie just jok- far from the zeigyo.
ing, its not named) in the air-conditioned Mann Restaurant (Map p230; 83rd St; dishes K600-
rooms inside. Beef curry with soy paste and 800; h7am-10pm) This bare-bones downtown
lime leaves (K3000) delivers the goods. The eatery attracts red-faced local men drinking
sprawling menu includes Chinese and Thai Tiger Beer presented by a Ms Tiger rep, and
dishes too. more than a handful of foreigners huddled
Shwe Taung Food Centre (Map p230; %23127; 35th over guidebooks. The foods good, and the
St; meat dishes K1500-2500, veg dishes K800-1000; h10am-
9.30pm) If you must have air-con, this rather
formal place, south of downtown, serves a THE AUTHORS CHOICE:
cool breeze along with Myanmar fare. Theres CHAPATIS AT DUSK
a nightly music performance at 7.30pm. For people watching and price, nothing
Some locals advise that Burmese food is beats the unnamed open-air chapati stand
best at lunch (when its freshest), and go for (Map p230; cnr 27th & 82nd Sts; meals under K300;
Chinese or Indian later on. A key excep- h5-9pm) where diners in turbans, longyi
tion can be found at the hopping barbecue (sarong-style lower garments), skullcaps
restaurants (Map p228; 30th St, 65/66), which are and an occasional travellers backpack sop
best after dark. Each has open-air and in- up veggie and meat curries with just-made
M A N D A L AY
side seats with fans. Out the front, pick the chapatis. It hops in the early evening as
skewers of meat (pork, chicken, whole fish) rush-hour traffic and kids with kites fill
or a couple of veggie options (lady fingers, the roads and airways around the tiny
spiced bean curd) and hand to the cooks. wooden-stool and plastic-chair sitting areas
A full meal plus a beer or two runs around on the footpath.
K3000 to K4000.
240 MA N D A L AY D r i n k i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
place is an easy walk from most guesthouses. for locals and downtown-based travellers,
There are lots of horns on the walls. the Nylon has outside tables (the shade starts
Oriental House (Map p228; %61143; cnr 27th & in the afternoon) worth lingering for in the
64th Sts; dim sum per piece K200; h6.30am-2pm dim evening. A scoop of chocolate, strawberry
sum, 5-9pm dinner) This big banquet hall with or vanilla ice cream is K200. The shakes and
waterfalls out the front, kiddie toys in the lassis are good too. You can get a Myanmar
huge ground floor and more seating up- Beer to stay or go for K1000.
stairs is best for its midday dim sum. Snack vendors (mostly serving Indian
desserts and sweet rice) fill the downtown
Thai streets from 4pm. A good place is in front
Kos Kitchen (Map p228; %34214; cnr 19th & 80th of the mosque on 82nd St between 27th and
Sts; soups & dishes K1700-4500; h11.30am-2.30pm & 28th Sts (Map p230).
5.30-10pm) This snazzy two-floor restaurant,
facing the Palace walls and moat, smacks of DRINKING
a Western version of Thai (ie quite comfy See left for details of a couple of teashops
and cool) and has a big menu, including a in Mandalay.
knock-out prawn hotpot and several north-
ern Thai specialties, including eggplant Beer Stations
chilli dip and crispy pork skin. A favourite Mandalay doesnt have pubs and bars (its
salad is the yam pla duk foo (spicy catfish Myanmar after all). A couple of buzzing
salad with cashews). eating places good to sit over a beer are the
barbecue restaurants (p238) on 30th St, and
Western the Nylon Ice Cream Bar (left) downtown.
BBB (Map p228; %25623; No 292 76th St, 26/27; dishes Hotel-wise, the Gem Club and Kiplings
around K3000; h8.30am-11pm) A two-floor bam- Lounge at the Mandalay Hill Resort Hotel
boo lodge done up to provide serious West- (p238) are nice, if a little stuffy, though the
ern comfort (ie big-time air-con and ESPN latter has live music nightly; you can order
on the telly), the BBB (Barman Beer Bar) of- drinks by the pool too.
fers a good respite from dust (and rice) with Small shops around Mandalay sell cold
pastas, burgers, superb BBQ chicken and beer for about K1000 to K1200 per bottle of
steak with mushrooms. Soups come with Myanmar Beer, the local Mandalay Beer (a
piping-hot bread. bit watery) or Tiger Beer, which you can take
to your hotel (best if it has a roof terrace).
Teashops
Mandalay teems with teashops, which are ENTERTAINMENT
great for picking up snacks; these are two The neighbourhood surrounding the house
of our favourites. of the Moustache Brothers Mandalays
Shwe Pyi Moe Cafe (Map p230; 25th St, 80/81; tea West End, as their troupe leader Lu Maw
K80; h5.30am-5.30pm) Downtowns busiest tea- jokes is home to many pwe troupes (not
shop, Shwe Pyi Moe makes top-quality teas, banned by the government), which prac-
boils up fresh ei-kya-kwe (long, deep-fried tise their craft during June and July from
pastries, known as you tio in Chinese; K70) 10am to 4pm daily. Visitors are welcome
in the giant wok up the front, and fries pan- to wander and watch, free (donations are
cakes with banana (K180). appreciated). Youll see traditional pwe (see
Minn Thi Ha Teashop (no English sign; Map p228; p236) in side streets and payas.
38th St, 83/84; h5am-6pm) Between downtown Moustache Brothers Troupe (Map p228; 39th St,
and Mahamuni Paya or the jade market, this 80/81; donation K2500; h8.30pm) Performed in
quiet teashop is another one worth steering the home of the banned Moustache Broth-
to. The young snack-serving staff isnt 100% ers, this famous, colourful troupe has cele-
M A N D A L AY
used to seeing foreign faces, so get ready for brated traditional Myanmar folk opera for
curiosity. over three decades. The show is quite in your
face, and pretty cornball, as its relayed from
Cafs atop a miniwood-crate stage, with a dozen
Nylon Ice Cream Bar (Map p230; No 173 83rd St, 25/26; or so plastic chairs 1m away. The one-time
h8.30am-9.30pm) The de-facto meeting place famous troupe is now banished from public
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY S h o p p i n g 241
MOUSTACHE BROTHERS FROM SLAPSTICK TO SATIRE

A Moustache Brothers show is not just a glimpse of a traditional a-nyeint pwe (a vaudeville folk
opera with dance, music, jokes and silly walks); its about artists brave enough to continue their
work in a country where a joke can get you jailed or worse. Two of the brothers know this all
too well. In 1996, after telling politically tinged jokes about Myanmar generals at an Independ-
ence Day celebration at Aung San Suu Kyis compound in Yangon, Par Par Lay and bare-faced
cousin Lu Zaw (two-thirds of the troupe) were seized by police and sentenced to seven years
hard labour. Initially they worked amid violent criminals, breaking rocks for roads and digging
ditches, and were unable to receive visits from their family.
In 1997 several Hollywood comedians (including Rob Reiner and political comedian Bill Maher)
wrote to the government in protest. Meanwhile, Par Par Lays brother, the outgoing Lu Maw,
kept up the show here with his wife.
After serving five years of their seven-year sentence, Par Par Lay and Lu Zaw were released
in 2002. The Moustache Brothers remain blacklisted from playing at outside events (marriages,
funerals, festivals and so on) and continue to be off the governments lists of artists that locals
can legally hire. So the brothers celebrated the occasion at home with a series of gala perform-
ances, attended inevitably by government agents with video cameras.
The regional commander soon summoned Par Par Lay and told him not to perform at home
any more. When he got home, some Westerners had already gathered for that nights show, and
he and his family cleverly decided to perform without costumes and makeup. Thus the show
went on for the tourists (and the KBG people Lu Zaws nickname for Myanmars military intel-
ligence). They explained they were merely demonstrating a performance since they couldnt do
a real one without costumes. It worked. Since that defiant evening they have been generally
left alone, doing nightly shows at their home for anyone who wants to see them. (And some of
the costumes have come out too.)
Historically, Par Par Lay was the famous one. As the only English speaker, tireless bundle
of energy Lu Zaw has become the clear spokesperson for the group now that the shows are
limited to English.
performances, and its original schtick in Bur- play on the floor a couple sit in drum cir-
mese has shifted to English. The leader, Lu cles, while another plays the distinctive hneh
Maw, kneels over an antique microphone (oboelike instrument) before a small stage.
stand and jokes through a minispeaker, as These musicians introduce traditional danc-
the night meanders through slapstick, po- ers and puppeteers, who recreate tales of
litical satire, Myanmar history, traditional zat pwe (Buddhist Jataka tales) and Yamazat
dance and music, and how to tie up your (tales from the Indian epic Ramayana) tradi-
longyi. Lu Maws English is pretty good tions. Many handmade marionettes line the
hes particularly fond of expressions like walls; all are for sale (puppets start at US$6).
cat out of the bag and hold the fort At various points the curtain is raised to
though if you speak English as a second lan- show the artists some are pretty wily char-
guage you may struggle a bit. He retells the acters performing their art. Traditionally,
story of their woes (even showing a clip from such shows were used for education and to
the Hugh Grant film About a Boy, which convey news. This troupe (though based on
mentions his brother Par Par Lay). Its a good tourism) is the most serious, among several
idea to bone up on some Myanmar factoids around the country, about preserving the
(eg Ne Win, 1988, Aung San) before attend- folk art.
ing. T-shirts are K5000. You can drop by any
M A N D A L AY
time to chat. See also the boxed text, above. SHOPPING

Mandalay Marionettes & Culture Show (Map Arts & Crafts
p228; %34446; www.mandalaymarionettes.com; 66th Mandalay is a major crafts centre, and
St, 26/27; admission K3500;h8.30pm) Opened in probably the best place in the country for
1986, this small theatre holds popular hour- traditional puppets (antique or new) and
long shows daily. Five traditional musicians hand-woven kalaga designed in the style of
242 MA N D A L AY G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y www.lonelyplanet.com
Myanmars royal days. If you enter without Markets

a tout or a driver, you can get (slightly) bet- Zeigyo (central market; Map p230; 84th St, 26/28) This
ter deals, as touts usually get commissions. downtown market offers wall-to-wall stands
Handicrafts are available at a few vendor selling just about everything Myanmar in
stalls in the zeigyo or at the Mahamuni Paya two large modern buildings and in stalls
(Map p228) entrance. Keep in mind that spilling out onto the footpaths.
some of the items sold at these shops older Produce market (p238; 86th St 26/28) Just to the
kalaga, parabaik (Buddhist palm-leaf manu- west, over a small creek, this is an up-to-
scripts), kammawa (lacquered scriptures), your-neck, open-air produce market where
gems, jade and any authentic antiques ox carts, trishaws and trucks bringing and
arent legally supposed to be taken out of taking goods can fill up the little lanes.
the country. Night market (Map p230; cnr 28th & 84th Sts) Of-
Mann Shwe Gon (Map p228; No 14 27th St, 72/73; fering all kinds of food, music and clothing,
h7am-10pm) This tapestry and handicrafts this market keeps the area lit up and active
shop founded in 1990 and run by a friendly after dark.
family was being relocated, without choice,
at press time, though the new location wasnt Other
yet known. Ask around to find it for (some Blazon (Map p230; 80th St, 28/29; h9am-8.30pm) This
pricey) intricately hand-woven handicrafts new four-floor mall sells imported goods (at
including kalaga pillowcases (from US$5) a price), if you need a US$50 pair of Adidas,
and wall hangings done in the fashion of US$6 Haagen Daz ice cream, US$20 designer
royal longyi (US$65 and up). Everythings shirts, or food or wine from abroad.
made at the workshop on site. Fujifilm (Map p230; 29th St, 80/81; developing fee
Sunflower Arts & Crafts (Map p228; 27th St, 74/75) K200, per photo K50) Develop film downtown in
Part of the Marie-Min Vegetarian Restau- here.
rant, the Sunflower fills two excellent show-
rooms on either side of the alley with new Stones & Sculpture
and old bronze and wood doodahs (small The jade market (Map p228; admission US$1; h7am-
wooden elephants with bending tusks 5pm) is the lively market amid the monk
are about US$7). There are also antique district in the back lanes southwest of the
(and quite anatomically correct) puppets. centre. It features dozens of open-air stalls
Quoted prices start at around US$15, but and low tables where locals squat and get
new puppets are cheaper (US$3 to US$5). serious about rough and polished pieces of
Mandalay Marionettes (p241) sells new jade and other gems. While most of the jade
puppets during the day or at nightly shows. seen here is genuine (and unlicensed), not
If you have a dilapidated stupa in need all is of high quality. In the past, some ven-
of refurbishing, head for the western exit dors sold jade boulders smuggled in from
of the Mahamuni Paya here youll find Kachin State; these may be fakes with thin
workshops manufacturing all sorts of tem- sheets of jade peering through the brown
ple paraphernalia (Map p228). If the hti outer skin, with the inside filled with ce-
(pinnacle of a stupa) has toppled, then this ment or worthless stone. Only foreigners pay
is the place to come for a new one. to go in, but often no-one collects the fee.
Mandalays gold-leaf makers (Map p228) Just across from the west entrance of the
are concentrated in the southeast of the Mahamuni Paya is a whole series of stone-
city, near the intersection of 36th and 78th carvers workshops (Map p228), around the
Sts. Sheets of gold are beaten into gossamer- corner of 45th and 84th Sts. You can see
thin pieces, which are then cut into squares workers blast slabs of rock, chip them into
and sold in packets to devotees for gilding shapes (Buddhas, small elephants etc) and
images or even complete stupas. The typical polish them. A tiny elephant costs about
M A N D A L AY
gold-leaf square measures just 0.000127cm, K1000, a medium-sized Buddha K10,000.

thinner than the ink on this page. Gilding
a Buddha image or a stupa with gold leaf GETTING THERE & AWAY
brings great merit to the gilder, so theres a Air
steady growth of gold leaf on many images Mandalays huge, gleaming airport a stag-
in Myanmar. gering 45km south of the centre sends and
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 243
receives daily flights around the country via but often its OK to buy them one day be-
Air Mandalay (AM), Yangon Airways (YA), forehand. IWT generally accepts US dollars
Bagan Air (BA) and the governments risky only.
Myanma Airways (MA). Travel agents and There are two ferry services between
airline offices offered the following one- Mandalay and Bagan. The express boat
way rates on nongovernment airlines at has fewer stops. Everyone gets seats on the
research time. Most destinations are con- deck below, or you can pay K2000 for a
nected daily. Flights to Thandwe usually deck chair to lounge up top. Theres also a
make a stop in Yangon. reasonable dining area and plenty of deck
space to move about. The slow boat has no
Destination Price (US$) reserved seats, but its usually not too mad
finding a spot.
Heho US$42-50 At research time, the following were the
Kengtung US$87 prices and times for some trips out of Man-
Nyaung U US$42-46 dalay. (When applicable, multiple prices are
Tachileik US$125 for lower deck/upper deck/cabin.)
Thandwe US$107
Yangon US$96-102 Destination Price (US$) Duration Frequency
MA has exclusive services to several des- Bagan US$10 15hr 5.30am (Sun &
tinations, including Kalaymyo (US$55) on (slow boat) Wed)
Tuesday, Saturday and Sunday; and Khamti Bagan US$16 9hr 6am(Mon, Tue
(US$80) on Monday and Friday. There are (express boat) & Thu-Sat)
also a couple of flights to Monywa (US$35). Bhamo US$9/24/54 2-3 days 5.30am (Tue,
Flights to Lashio (US$40) only operate when Fri & Sun)
government officials make the flight and Katha US$7/21/47 1-2 days 6am (Mon, Thu
open seats get sold! & Sat)
Airline offices downtown (have your pass- Myitkyina US$9/27/56 3-4 days 6am (Mon, Thu
port and US dollars handy): & Sat)
Air Mandalay (Map p230; %31548; 82nd St, 26/27; Pyay US$10 2-3 days Tue & Sat
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) Head office for AM. (slow boat)
Myanma Airways (Map p230; %35221; 81st St, 25/26;
h9am-2pm) Eerily, a poster (Youre safe with us) hangs For more on the fun, long-haul boat trips
behind the front desk. on the Ayeyarwady from Myitkyina, see
Yangon Airways (Map p230; %31799; 81st St, 25/26; p219.
h9am-5pm)
Bus
Several travel agents book air tickets (only), Mandalay has moved around its bus stands
often at a slightly discounted rate (about and stations a lot in recent years and
US$5 per ticket). One downtown choice is things could change again. Presently, most
New Seven Star Tours (Map p230; %60990; No 269 buses leaving or arriving in Mandalay en
83rd St, 27/28; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun). route to destinations to the south and
southeast operate from the Highway bus
Boat station, 7km south of the centre. This giant
Government-owned Inland Water Transport dusty lot is lined with a mind-numbing
office (IWT; Map p228; %36035; 35th St; h9am-4pm array of bus companies, often selling tick-
Mon-Fri), at the western end of Yangyiaung ets to the same places leaving at the same
Rd (35th St), sells tickets for destinations time.
up and down the Ayeyarwady including Schedules, just like bus terminals or
M A N D A L AY
Bagan, Pyay (Prome) and Bhamo. Often the mood of an ox, are prone to constant
hotels can get the tickets (and save you a change, so take the following sample of
trip); alternatively, you can get them (at fares and schedules from the Highway bus
10% commission) from the MTT offices terminal as a loose guide only. Local buses
(see p229). Its sometimes said that you have no air-conditioning and some are 32-
need to buy tickets a few days in advance, seaters.
244 MA N D A L AY G e t t i n g A r o u n d www.lonelyplanet.com
Destination Price Duration Frequency Type Taxi & Pick-Up

Hotels in Mandalay can arrange share taxis to
Bagan K4200 8hr 9am, 2pm local Pyin U Lwin, or you can get one downtown
& 9pm for K5000; check at the corner of 27th and
Magwe K3000 12 hr 4pm & 5pm air-con 83rd Sts. To get to Hsipaw or Lashio, contact
& local the Lashio taxi stand (%80765) at the Highway
Meiktila K600 3 hr frequent local bus station. The trip is K8000 per person (to
Pyay K3000 20hr 1pm local either destination) and takes five hours to
Taunggyi Hsipaw, six to Lashio. Taxis run from 7am
(to Inle) K4500 10-12 hr 6pm air-con till noon.
Yangon K4500 12-15 hr 5.30pm air-con Many travellers hire long-term taxis with
driver for a couple of days or more. One
At research time, a 5.30am bus left for north- quote to go from Mandalay to Monywa, tour
eastern destinations such as Pyin U Lwin, around its sights, stay overnight and then
Kyaukme, Hsipaw and Lashio from a new go to Pakokku to catch the Bagan ferry was
bus station a couple of kilometres east of US$70. A share taxi to Inle Lake was about
the Highway bus station. Apparently a few US$50 or US$60. For sample fares, ask at your
drivers frowned on taking foreigners. This hotel or at New Horizon Travels (p229).
is likely to change. A ticket cost K2300 re- For information on taking taxis or pick-
gardless of where you exited. ups to nearby towns, see Amarapura (p250),
To reach Shwebo or Monywa to the west Inwa (p252) and Sagaing (p254).
and northwest by bus, a small bus station
downtown (off 88th St between 21st and Train
22nd Sts) sends frequent local buses to both. The newish (largely bare) train station (Map
It takes three hours to either town. At re- p228; 30th St, 78th/79th Sts) is a mostly unused,
search time, some drivers were reluctant to modern, multistorey building with four
allow foreigners on the bus to Monywa (but drive-up ramps, elevated taxi stands and es-
not to Shwebo); others claimed that foreign- calators leading to waiting areas with TVs.
ers could only take the 6am bus. Some travel- Meanwhile its generally the same ol poky,
lers had to pay up to K5000 to get on, others packed trains that ferry mostly locals on
about K1000. The no-problem Shwebo bus slow-going trips back home.
costs K700 or K1000. The situation is likely Just inside the main entrance downstairs
to improve, but you can consider starting at is an MTT office (%22541; h9.30am-6pm), which
Shwebo for a less tricky route. can sell tickets at 10% commission. You may
be able to buy tickets (sans commission) at
BUYING TICKETS the upstairs counters, but usually theyll send
If you dont want to get help from your you to MTT, you foreigner you.
hotel or guesthouse, several small stands on At research time, seven trains a day left for
31st and 32nd Sts, between 81st and 83rd Yangon (via Thazi, Pyinmana, Taungoo and
Sts, sell tickets. Stands selling K4500 tickets Bago). The quickest were the No 6 Down
for 5pm buses to Yangon and offering a (3.15pm), the No 15 Up (5.15pm), and the
transfer to the bus station at 3.30pm: No 17 Up (6.30pm), which took about 12
Leo Express (Map p230; %39323; No 367 83rd St, at hours. Others took 14 to 16 hours. Note that
33rd St) the private company Dagon-Mann runs the
Mann Shwe Pyi (Map p230; %88267; cnr 32nd & No 17 Up service; bookings can be made
83rd Sts) through travel agents. Ordinary train tickets
Toe Express (Map p230; %64926; 32nd St) cost US$11 to US$15, 1st class are US$30 to
US$35, and sleepers are US$45 or US$50.
Another ticket stand on 32nd between 81st Trains operated by the private Mehka
M A N D A L AY
and 82nd Sts sells tickets for Pyay (K3000), Mandalar company depart Mandalay for
which leave at 1pm. Nearby, another bus Myitkyina at 4.40pm on Wednesday and
stand sells tickets for local buses to Pyin U Sunday. Upper-class seats are US$25. The
Lwin (K2300) and Hsipaw (K2300), which Malikha Mandalar company runs trains on
leave at 5.30am. Note that these buses dont Monday and Friday, and the fare and depar-
leave from here. ture times are the same. These tickets can
www.lonelyplanet.com MA N D A L AY G e t t i n g A r o u n d 245
be bought at the Mandalay train station at Mahamuni Paya to Mandalay Hill; red-
window Nos 7 and 8. and-yellow Mann Sit Thi bus
Other sample fares (ordinary/1st class/ Mahamuni Paya to zeigyo and Kuthodaw
sleeper) and schedules include the follow- Paya; blue bus No 1
ing. Ask travel agents for details of services Mandalay Hill from the clock tower and
run by private companies. zeigyo; bus No 4
Mandalay Hill to south of the city and
Destination Price (US$) Duration Departure airport; red bus No 12
Yankin Hill, zeigyo and the boat jetty to
Bagan US$4/9/- 7hr 10pm Mingun; white bus No 5
(Nyaung U)
Hsipaw US$3/6/- 10hr 4.45am Motorcycle
Lashio US$5/10/- 14hr 4.45am As elsewhere in Myanmar, many locals are
Myitkyina US$10/27/40 24hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm reluctant to hire out motorcycles to for-
Naba US$-/12/18 12hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm eigners due to insurance worries in case of
Pyin U Lwin US$2/4/- 3hr 4.45am accident. Marie-Min Vegetarian Restaurant
Shwebo US$5/15/- 3hr 1.50pm & 5.45pm (p239) hires out motorcycles for K7500 per
day. Downtown guesthouses such as Nylon
GETTING AROUND Hotel (p237) can find one for about the
To/From the Airport & Stations same rate.
Its usually more expensive getting to town
from the airport than the other way around. Taxi
The trip takes about one hour. Taxis meet- Taxis and blue taxis (teeny blue Mazda
ing flights charge K7000 to K9000. Upmar- pick-ups with room for four or so in the
ket hotels can arrange transport for US$10. covered cab) whisk people around Mandalay
Arranging your own ride to the airport most hours. Theyre easy to find downtown.
costs K4000 or K5000. You can also con- Prices are negotiable. A ride from downtown
tact Shwe Airport Taxi (Map p230; %64084; No 109 to the Bagan jetty is about K2000. You can
29th St, 80/81). hire a blue taxi on a full-day trip to Amara-
A taxi between downtown and the High- pura, Inwa and Sagaing for about K15,000;
way bus station is about K2500 or K3000. a regular taxi is about K8000 to K15,000
You can get a pick-up to the station (Map more.
p230; K1000) from the corner of 27th and
83rd Sts. Trishaw
Note that trishaws are discouraged from The classic double back-to-back seat
hanging out at the train station and arent al- trishaws still ply the back lanes of Man-
lowed on the entry ramps on the west side. dalay. Its about K200 to K500 for shorter
rides and K1000 or more for longer ones,
Bicycle say from Mandalay Hill to the zeigyo.
Several bicycle-rental shops stand on foot- Probably no-one in Mandalay knows the
paths downtown, including Mr Htoo Bicycles town and travellers info eg what streets
(Map p230; 83rd St, 25/26; hire per day K1000; h8am- are hosting a pwe, where share taxis to
7pm). Most hotels and guesthouses can get Hsipaw leave from, who sells the cheapest
you a bike for comparable prices. veggie curry like trishaw drivers. Those
lingering by guesthouses usually know
Bus some English and are pretty good guys. A
Mandalays buses are virtually always good day, one said, is getting a couple of
crowded, particularly during the 7am to good jobs (K1000 to K2000 each) and 90
9am and 4pm to 5pm rush hours. It can be minutes off at lunch to see his children; its
M A N D A L AY
fun. Few locals know routes by number, but enough to rent the trishaw and feed my wife
here are some of the useful services: and three kids.
Gawwein jetty, train station and airport; Its probably worth spreading your kyat
blue bus No 2 by taking one from a nontouristy area too.
M A N D A L AY
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 246
Around Mandalay
Mandalays good, but it gets better just outside its doors. In centuries past, four capitals
set up shop at (or near) various points along the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River, and they
comprise some of the more compelling images of Myanmar. In Amarapura, for-hire rowboats
drift by a 1.2km-long teak-pole bridge used by hundreds of monks and fishers carrying their
days catch home. At the canal-made island capital of Inwa (Ava), a flatbed ferry and then an
ox-cart lead visitors to a handful of ancient sites surrounded by village life. In Mingun a
boat ride up the Ayeyarwady from Mandalay steps lead up a battered stupa more mas-
sive than any otherand yet its only a third finished. At one of Myanmars most religious
destinations, Sagaings temple-studded hills offer room to explore, space to meditate and
views of the Ayeyarwady that extend kilometres.
Further out of town, northwest of Mandalay in Sagaing District, are a couple of towns
real ones, the kind where wide-eyed locals sometimes slip into approving laughter at your
mere presence that usually require overnight stays. Monywa is near a carnivalesque pa-
goda and hundreds of cave temples carved from a Buddha-shaped mountain; just east,
Shwebo is the stupa-filled town where Myanmars last dynasty kicked off. Further north,
near the Indian border, Kalaymyo is the only place in Myanmar where you can chat with
Chin people without an expensive permit from the government.
HIGHLIGHTS
In Amarapura, U Beins Bridge (p248) is the worlds longest teak bridge, creaking under the
footfalls of commuting monks and fishers
Inwas Bagaya Kyaung (p251) is an
evocative 19th-century teak monastery
The view from Sagaing Hill (p253)
catches 500 temple tops peering over
the Ayeyarwady River
Upriver from Mandalay, the Mingun
River
Paya (p255) is an unfinished, but still Hpo Win

Daung Caves
king-sized, stupa base you can climb Mingun
Ayeyarwady Mandalay
Across the Chindwin River from Mandalay,
Chin
Sagaing Hill Amarapura

the Hpo Win Daung Caves (p259) feature
dw
Inwa
inn
500 temples dotting the innards of a

River
mountain shaped like a reclining

Buddha
www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D MA N D A L AY H i s t o r y 247
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY
0 20 km
AROUND MANDALAY 0 12 miles
To Mogok SHAN
Kyaukmyaung (50km) STATE
Singu
Shwebo
Halingyi
31
Twin
Duang Hanlin
Pai River
Thamantha
Budalin To Hsipaw;
Wetlet Lashio
Ayeyarwady River
Sedaw
Mu
To Kalaymyo
(190km) Mayabin Mattaya Kyabin
Ri
ve
r
Kyaukka Sadaung MANDALAY

SAGAING DIVISION 3
Monywa
DIVISION
Mingun 31
Taungbyone
Pyin U
Chaung-U Anisakan Lwin
To Zeedaw; Mandalay
Maungdon
Myinmu
ady River Sagaing
yarw Amarapura
Aye
Chin
Tonbo
er
Inwa Paleik
Riv
dwi
Lema nge
n
Myit
n
1
River
Myotha 18
Yesagyo Chaunggwa
MAGWE Kyaukse
DIVISION Yandabo
SHAN
To Bagan To Yangon
STATE
Myingyan To Thazi
HISTORY where it remained for just four years. Inwa

From the fall of Bagan (Pagan) to the end only regained its pre-eminent position
of the third and last Anglo-Burmese War from 1764 to 1783, after which time Amara-
in 1885 (a war that was disastrous for the pura became the capital. In 1823 Inwa was
Burmese), the capitals of Myanmar played again the capital but, following the terrible
musical chairs in the area close to, or in,
Mandalay. At first, new kings sought to
build their legacy by breaking new ground THE LAST KINGS
(and often the bricks and wood from old Myanmars last dynasty (the Konbaung
palace buildings) to build a new capital. dynasty) based itself in the area around
By the late-18th century, kings turned to Mandalay. It began with Alaungpaya (p38)
astrological forces to pick a site worthy of a in 1752 and ended 133 years later, when
kings royal headquarters. Generally, when King Thibaw was deposed by the British
a new reign began, the royal entourage of and exiled to India. Heres a cheat sheet to
the new king took much of the might of the the 10 kings:
old capital and left the area to farming vil- Alaungpaya 1752-60
lagers, with neglected stupas picturesquely Naungdawgyi 1760-63
dotting their fields. Hsinbyushin 1763-76
In the chaos after the fall of Bagan, it was Singu Min 1776-82
Sagaing that first rose to prominence (in the Bodawpaya 1782-1819
early 14th century), but in 1364 Inwa suc- Bagyidaw 1819-37
ceeded it. Alaungpaya appointed himself a Tharawaddy Min 1837-46
royal in 1752, and the capital was briefly Pagan Min 1846-53
stationed in his home town of Shwebo Mindon Min 1853-78
(then called Mokesebo). In 1760 the cap- Thibaw Min 1878-85
ital shifted back across the river to Sagaing,
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 248 A N C I E N T C I T I E S A m a r a p u r a www.lonelyplanet.com
earthquake of 1838, which caused consider- are scattered (and sometimes not easy to
able damage to all these cities, the capital find). Allow time and energy for walking if
was moved back to Amarapura in 1841. you dont have a driver.
Amarapura was capital again for only a short Amarapura means City of Immortality,
period, and in 1860 the seat of power was though its period as capital was brief just
transferred to Mandalay, where it remained over 50 years. It was founded by Bodawpaya
until the end of the British conquest of My- as his new capital in 1783. In 1857 Mindon
anmar 25 years later. This dizzying move of Min decided to make Mandalay the capital,
capitals around Mandalay gives the area its and the changeover was completed in 1860.
second nickname: Deserted Cities. Today little remains of the old Amarapura
palace area. The city walls were torn down
CLIMATE to make quarry material, while most of the
As in Mandalay, its hot here, and April and wooden palace buildings were dismantled
May bake. Dust cakes the trees (and the back and taken to adorn the palace in Mandalay.
of your throat) any time its not raining. All visitors are supposed to have the
US$10 combo ticket bought in Mandalay to
GETTING THERE & AROUND visit Amarapura, but its not always asked
All of these destinations are best reached via for. There is no licensed accommodation
Mandalay. Three of the ancient cities (Ama- in Amarapura.
rapura, Inwa and Sagaing) outside Manda-
lays door are reached by pick-ups, but most Sights
visitors go on day trips by taxi. Monywa U BEINS BRIDGE
and Shwebo are a few hours west and north wI"pin'tt;"
of Mandalay by bus; Monywa also has air Amarapura biggest draw and easily one
and slow-train connections with Mandalay of Myanmars most photographed sites is
and a useful bus connection with Pakokku this remarkable 1.2km-long teak footbridge
(p281) en route to Bagan. The road north
0 500 m
from Monywa to Kalaymyo is closed to for- AMARAPURA 0 0.3 miles
eigners; an air service connects Kalaymyo
with Monywa and Mandalay.
To Mandalay (11km)
ANCIENT CITIES
Popular day trips south and southwest of
Mandalay take in these ancient cities: Ama- Palace Ruins
rapura (below), Inwa (p251) and Sagaing
(p252), as well as the Snake Pagoda at Paleik
(p252); upriver to the north is Mingun (p254). Bagaya
Kyaung
Technically, you will need to purchase the
so-called Mandalay Archaeological Zone Pahtodawgyi
combo ticket (p229) for US$10 to visit Am-

arapura, Inwa or Paleik. A separate US$3 Taungthaman
ticket allows entry to Sagaing and Mingun. Lake
AMARAPURA
amrpr
To Shwe-kyet-kya;
Myanmars penultimate royal capital, the Shwe-kyet-yet
now modern town of Amarapura (admission No 8

Bus Stop
Village
US$10 combo ticket), 11km south of Mandalay, is Kyauktawgyi
Paya
more well known by the many day-trippers To Inwa (7km);
Teashops
for its 1849 pedestrian bridge built of over Sagaing (8km)
Food Stalls Art Gallery
Maha
1000 teak posts. The setting on the wide Ganayon
Kyaung
Taungthaman Lake is gorgeous too, and U Bein's
Bridge
theres much more to see, though most sites
www.lonelyplanet.com A N C I E N T C I T I E S A m a r a p u r a 249
leading across the shallow Taungthaman Lake Just west from the start of the bridge is
(which is named for an ogre who suppos- the Maha Ganayon Kyaung, home to several
edly came looking for Buddha here). Still thousand young monks. If you visit at
strong after 200 years, the worlds longest about 11am, you can watch the whole
teak span sees a lot of life: fishers casting a monastery eating silently. (Do try to re-
line into the water, locals walking their bi- frain from thrusting cameras into monks
cycles home to Taungthaman village across faces, as too many visitors do this.) It was
the lake and monks in saffron robes car- founded in around 1914 and is renowned
rying alms bowls between the monasteries as a centre for monastic study and strict
on both sides. religious discipline. Theres also a new
The best times to visit the bridge are just and garish-looking temple with a gigantic
after sunrise or just before sunset, when hun- seated Buddha.
dreds of villagers commute back and forth
across it. A popular sunset activity is hiring Kyauktawgyi Paya
boats (about K1500) to get close-up looks ekY;k'et;'kI".ur;"
of the 1060-post bridge from the water. In If you cross U Beins Bridge (and you
the dry season, however, the lake dwindles should, considering the views to be had of
greatly in size; in June or July the water levels Pahtodawgyi and the lake), youll come to
sometimes rise above the walkway. Taungthaman village and Kyauktawgyi Paya
The bridges name is usually attributed to (about 200m from the bridge). Constructed
the mayor of Amarapura when the capital in 1847 by Pagan Min, this paya is said to
moved here from Inwa in 1841, but some have been modelled on the larger Ananda
say it was named for a Muslim servant of Pahto at Bagan (p300), but its five-tiered
the king who built the bridge. Most of the roof gives it more the look of a Tibetan or
posts are original, though some have been Nepali temple.
replaced by concrete blocks. The bridge is While the paya doesnt have the perfectly
curved to better withstand the wind. vaulted roofs or the finer decorations of the
There are five shaded rest areas on the original, it does have an excellent seated
bridge, including (at times) a couple of Buddha image and well-preserved frescoes.
places to sample fresh palm toddy. During Check the entry ceiling murals to see some
the dry season, a cement stairway halfway suspiciously English-looking figures in
across leads down to a small island with a bamboo hats, looking a little bossy despite
single teashop (theres no sign). the smiles.
The paya pwe (pagoda festival), known as
AROUND THE BRIDGE the Festival of Lights, takes place here during
Near the start of the bridge are a few food Thadingyut (October).
stalls where you can take noodles, tea or The atmosphere around Kyauktawgyi is
beer and enjoy the view. very peaceful and shady, and this is a good
PLANNING DAY TRIPS

You cant visit all the ancient cities in one day. Mingun is a half-day trip by boat. With a taxi
driver, its possible to visit Amarapura, Inwa and Sagaing in one busy day (and many visitors do),
but its best to save Sagaing for another day. At research time, a taxi from Mandalay for the three
sites cost about US$23 to US$30 (about US$15 for a half-day), and a blue taxi (a dinky Mazda
pick-up) costs about US$10 or US$15.
Local packed pick-ups leaving from the corner of 29th and 84th Sts in Mandalay stop by
Amarapura (30 minutes) and the Inwa junction (40 minutes), before reaching Sagaing (45
minutes). Its K100 during the day, K200 after dark. Considering how far apart many sights
are, even many shoestringers spring for a full-day taxi, which is the only way to link them
up with Paleik.
Note that the popular dining time for monks at the Maha Ganayon Kyaung (above) in Ama-
rapura and the snake-feeding time at Paleik (see p252) is 11am daily.
Other transport details are listed at the end of each section.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 250 A N C I E N T C I T I E S A m a r a p u r a www.lonelyplanet.com
alternative place to hang around at sunset. based on ground plans and drawings found
There are several smaller overgrown stu- at the Kyauktawgyi Paya.
pas to be seen in the vicinity, including a Ask the caretaker to open the museum;
unique honeycomb-shaped stupa covered its usually locked.
with Buddha niches. Lay people often come Bagaya Kyaung is located just off the
here to practise meditation. Mandalay road, about 1km northeast of
There are a couple of traditional outdoor Pahtodawgyi.
teashops, serving tea and snacks.
You can catch a boat back across the lake PALACE RUINS
for about K1500. nn'"et;'r;-amrpUr
Little remains of the old Amarapura palace, just
SHWE-KYET-KYA & SHWE-KYET-YET east of the Bagaya Kyaung, but you can find
On the bank of the Ayeyarwady, west of the old treasury building and watchtower
Amarapura, stand two 12th-century paya (next to a modern water tower). King Bagyi-
(Buddhist monuments) the Shwe-kyet-kya daw and King Bodawpaya were both cre-
and the Shwe-kyet-yet, or Golden Fowls Run, mated here, and their ashes were placed in
a string of stupa ruins cascading down from velvet bags and thrown into the Ayeyarwady.
a high bluff. If the river level isnt too high, Stupas still stand at the four corners of the
you can get a boatman to take you out in a once-square city.
local hgnet (swallow-tailed boat) for a view
of the two paya, the Sagaing hills and the Festivals & Events
sun setting behind the Ava Bridge. In August, a week after the end of the
Taungbyone nat pwe (spirit festival; p61)
PAHTODAWGYI and the full moon of Wagaung, Myanmars
puqiu"et;'kI" nat (spirit being) worshippers move to the
Built by King Bagyidaw in 1820, this well- Irinaku (Yadanagu) Festival, just south of
preserved paya, near the lake, almost 2km Amarapura, and to the east of the road. The
north of the bridge, stood outside the old festival celebrates Popa Medaw, the mother
city walls. The lower terraces have mar- of the Taungbyone brothers. At one point,
ble slabs illustrating scenes from the Jataka the festival was one of the wilder ones in
(stories of the Buddhas past lives). Theres Myanmar and an important date in Myan-
a fine view over the surrounding country- mars gay scene.
side from the upper terrace. An inscription
stone within the temple precinct details the Getting There & Away
history of the monuments construction. If arriving by pick-up, the best access point
to U Beins Bridge is just after you see a
BAGAYA KYAUNG government-made sign for it on the left-
b;"kr;ekY;='" hand side of the road. Tell the driver where
The history of the Bagaya Kyaung, now a youre headed beforehand. You can also get
government-built reconstruction dating on and off buses just north of Pahtodawgyi,
from 1996 and a museum, dates back two
centuries. Based on a still-standing pred-
ecessor in Inwa, the first version of the LOCAL FESTIVAL LOWDOWN
Bagaya Kyaung dates from when King Bo- Mingun Nat Festival (February/March) Mingun
dawpaya built it after moving the capital to (see p256) .
Amarapura, but it was destroyed by fire in Thon Ban Hla (February/March) Inwa (opposite).
1821. A second version, built in 1847, was Paleik festival (June/July) Paleik (see p252).
again burned down in 1866, leaving only Taungbyone Festival (August) North of
eight brick stairways. These were gradually Mandalay (see p61) This includes the grandest of
overgrown until the Myatheindan sayadaw all nat pwe.
(master teacher) built a two-storey brick Irinaku Festival (Yadanagu; August) South of
building in 1951, in which he deposited Amarapura (see above).
500 Buddha images and 5000 sets of pe-sa Paya pwe (pagoda festival, Festival of Lights;
(palm-leaf manuscripts) from throughout October) At Kyauktawgyi Paya (see p249) .
Myanmar. The project to rebuild it was
www.lonelyplanet.com A N C I E N T C I T I E S I n w a 251
but its a long, confusing walk to the bridge been in decline since the fall of Bagan. Al-
from there. See p249 for day-trip info. though Inwas reach soon extended as far as
Touring by bicycle from Mandalay is an- Pyay, the Mon rulers of Bago proved to be
other alternative. Pedalling to Amarapura a strong match for the Bamar.
should take 45 minutes or so. In 1555 Inwa fell to Taungoo, then to the
Mon in 1752. A few years later Alaungpaya
INWA (AVA) vanquished the Mon forever, and after a
a='"v period with Shwebo in the north as capital,
Cut off from roads by rivers and canals, the Inwa once again became the centre of the
ancient city of Inwa (admission US$10 combo ticket) kingdom.
served as capital of the Burmese kingdom When the British occupied southern
for nearly 400 years, longer than any other Myanmar following the Second Anglo-
city. It tilts towards the touristy its part Burmese War, much of northern Myanmar
of the Mandalay US$10 ticket. The only was known as the Kingdom of Ava. The city
way around the scattered sites is via horse was finally abandoned as a capital, in favour
cart with prepriced system in place, and of Amarapura, in 1841.
some postcard vendors linger at the sites
but it offers a more revealing glimpse into Sights
thatched-hut village life than the other an- BAGAYA KYAUNG
cient cities. Beside the road, villagers till b;"kr;ekY;='"
the soil where the royal palace once stood; One of Inwas finest attractions is the hap-
others fish and bathe in inland ponds near pily unrenovated Bagaya Kyaung, which dates
ruined stupas. from 1834. The entire monastery is built of
Inwa known as Ava to the outside teak and supported by 267 teak posts (the
world until relatively recently is reached largest measures 18m in height and 2.7m in
by ferry, from near the Mandalay side of circumference). The cool and dark interior
the Ava Bridge, a few kilometres southwest feels old and inviting. You may catch a class
of Amarapura. On its south side, the Myit- in progress inside.
tha Chaung (Myittha Canal) connects the On the outside, look for the Keinayi
Myitnge and Ayeyarwady Rivers, making peacock half bird and half woman. How
Inwa an island a good place to base a long this pristine wooden structure will es-
kingdom. cape the heavy hand of renovation is not
The Inwa Nat Pwe celebrates the nat Thon certain, but visit it while you can.
Ban Hla from the 10th day of the waxing A small sign in Burmese at the entrance
moon through to the full moon of Tabaung warns: No footwear; if you are afraid of the
(February/March). heat on the floor, stay in your own house.
Convenient horse carts make a clockwise
loop through the old gate and past a hand- NANMYIN
ful of sites (listed in order below). Youll a='"vemY;'c='
need two to three hours to visit. There are The 27m-high masonry watchtower Nan-
a couple of food stalls outside the Maha myin is all that remains of the palace built
Aungmye Bonzan, but no places to stay. by Bagyidaw. The upper portion was shat-
tered by the 1838 earthquake and the rest
History has taken on a precarious tilt its known as
Inwas classical Pali name was Ratnapura the leaning tower of Inwa that is clearly
(City of Gems), Tadanabon in Burmese. noticeable when youre climbing the steps.
Inwa (Mouth of the Lake) served as the Visible up the top, across the Ayeyarwady,
Burmese capital from 1364 to 1841 (give or is the hemisphere-shaped Kaunghmudaw
take an interlude or three), when the final Paya (p254).
shift was made to Amarapura.
Before 1364 Sagaing had been the capital MAHA AUNGMYE BONZAN
of the central Bamar kingdom, but after Sa- mh;ea;='em.uc
gaing fell to the Shan, the capital was moved Also known as the Ok Kyaung or the Me
to Inwa. The kings of Inwa set about re- Nu Ok Kyaung, this is a brick-and-stucco
establishing Bamar supremacy, which had monastery built by Meh Nu, the chief queen
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 252 A N C I E N T C I T I E S Pa l e i k www.lonelyplanet.com
of Bagyidaw, for her royal abbot U Bok Ava Bridge, where you can hire a trishaw
(Nyaunggan sayadaw) in 1822. Monaster- (K200) or walk 1km to the ferry. (In the
ies were generally built of wood and were rainy season the ferry leaves from near Ava
prone to deterioration from the elements Bridge at the Thabyedan Fort, just below
or destruction by fire. This monasterys the bridge to the south.)
masonry construction has ensured its long
life. The 1838 earthquake badly damaged it, Getting Around
but it was restored in 1872 by one of King Essentially, the only way to get around the
Mindons queens. ancient site is by horse cart (K2500 for one
Located nearby, the Htilaingshin Paya dates or two people) on a three-hour tour. A mo-
back to the Bagan period; in a shed in the torcycle or bicycle can easily board the ferry
compound an inscription records the con- to Inwa. If youre alone, you could hire a
struction of the wooden palace during the motorcycle taxi (rather than blue taxi) in
first Inwa dynasty. Mandalay to take you to and around Inwa.
AVA BRIDGE PALEIK

a='"vtt;" plip'
Visible from the tower and from the ferry, Most visitors on the Ancient Cities circuit
the British-engineered, 16-span Ava Bridge miss Paleiks Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-
(aka Inwa Bridge or Sagaing Bridge), which pye Paya, better known as the Snake Pagoda
leads to Sagaing, dates to 1934. It was the (Hmwe Paya). Its named after the three
only structure that crossed the Ayeyar- giant pythons that sleep curled around the
wady River until 1998, when a new Chinese- Buddha images, which are tenderly washed
engineered bridge was completed at Pyay. and fed at 11am daily. The modest temple,
At research time, a new bridge (just north) dating alternatively to the early 11th century
was about a quarter finished, and may be or the 15th century, received little notice until
completed in 2005. 1974, when three pythons appeared from the
In 1942 the British demolished two spans nearby forest. Now daily revellers (including
of the bridge to deny passage to the advanc- a scared baby or two) pose for photographs
ing Japanese. Not until 1954 was it repaired with the snakes, which are led by attendants
and put back into operation. It carries two to the main Buddha image.
lanes of traffic, plus a railway line. Paleik is surrounded by an estimated 325
Photography of or from the bridge is stupas and paya in varying states of repair,
forbidden. many from the Konbaung period its
something like a mini-Bagan.
OTHER SIGHTS A big festival takes place in the two weeks
At research time, waterlogged roads pro- following the full moon of Waso (June or
hibited access to these sights, which arent July).
always on horse-cart drivers itineraries. Paleik is about 20km south of Mandalay
The massive old city walls can easily be (about 45 minutes) on the highway to Meik-
traced around Inwa. The best preserved are tila and Yangon. A lovely tree-lined back
near the northern gate, facing the Ayeyar- road leads 10km east to Inwa; its possible
wady (northwest of the Maha Aungmye to arrive for the 11am event and reach Inwa
Bonzan). This gate was also known as the by noon.
Gaung Say Daga (Hair-Washing Gate), where
kings went for a shampoo. SAGAING
On the southern side of the city stand the cc'kui='"
remains of the huge four-storey Le-htat-gyi Home to 500 stupas, even more monaster-
Paya. There is also the Lawkatharaphu Paya, ies and nunneries, and some 6000 monks
while to the south of the city stands the and nuns, lovely Sagaing is where Buddhists
Singyone Fort. in Myanmar go when theyre stressed. Set
on the riverbank across the Ayeyarwady
Getting There & Away from Inwa, its peaceful pace led by a lot
If youre not coming by taxi (see p249), of local meditation is welcome to visitors
pick-ups will drop off passengers near the as well.
www.lonelyplanet.com A N C I E N T C I T I E S S a g a i n g 253
Those also trying to cram in Amarapura superb. Monks from the outside monastery
and Inwa in a day usually get only a whirlwind may turn on the electricity, but its best by
look at Sagaing in 90 minutes. Considering the (provided) candlelight, where colourful
the massive network of leafy paths connect- murals slowly reveal themselves in the dark
ing hilltop stupa to riverside stupa, and with hallways.
licensed accommodation here, theres much Other sights around the hill include Pa-
to explore for those willing to linger. If youre damya Zedi (which dates from 1300); Umin
unable to ruin-hop in Bagan, Sagaing may Thounzeh (30 Caves), which has 45 Buddha
provide an interesting substitute. images in a crescent-shaped colonnade; and
Named for the trees hanging over the river, the 29.3m-high Soon U Ponya Shin Paya, built
Sagaing became capital of an independent in 1312 and home to large bronze frogs on
Shan kingdom around 1315, after the fall wheels that serve as collection boxes.
of Bagan had thrown central Myanmar into If you dont want to go up the hill, you
chaos. Its period of importance was short, can still soak up Sagaings atmosphere by
for in 1364 the founders grandson, Thado roaming along the pathways that cover the
Minbya, hopscotched the capital to Inwa. hillsides and link up the hundreds of taza-
For four years, from 1760 to 1764, Sagaing ung (shrine buildings) down to Thayetpin
was once again the capital, but its historic jetty.
importance is comparatively minor. About a quarter of the way from the
Devotion is the name of the game these market to Sagaing Hill, youll pass the Hsin-
days. In addition to the many sites, theres myashin Paya. Its known as the Pagoda of
a major monastic hospital here. During Many Elephants for its elephant statues
the full moon of Tazaungmon (October/ stationed at each entranceway a depar-
November), devotees from Mandalay and ture from the usual chinthe (half-lion, half-
beyond flock to Sagaing to offer robes. dragon deities). The paya dates from 1429
Kyaswa Kyaung holds a foreign yogis re- (the scissors at the eastern entrance are the
treat in December or January (foreigners logo of a recent sponsors company).
are welcome), and visitors are sometimes A few kilometres north are a couple of
invited to stay in monasteries around Saga- silver shops, where you can see artisans bang
ing Hill by friendly monks. away at various pieces.
Sagaing is also famous for its acoustic
guitars. Ask a trishaw driver to take you to SOUTH OF AVA BRIDGE
a factory if you want one. Buddhist Sites
Heading along Strand Rd, following the
Sights water south of the bridge, you can drop
SAGAING HILL by a couple of interesting pagodas. About
cc'kiu='"et;=' 500m south is the Tupayon Paya, built in
If you have limited time in Sagaing, come 1444, which has an unusual style for My-
to this hill (admission incl Mingun US$3). The ticket anmar. It consists of three circular storeys
is valid for five days and includes admis- each encircled by arched niches. A tempo-
sion to the nearby town of Mingun. Trees rary wooden bridge was constructed across
hang over stone steps that lead past stupas, the Ayeyarwady when the hti (umbrellalike
monasteries and nunneries to a glorious top, pinnacle of a stupa) was raised, and a huge
where you can take in many of Sagaings 500 festival was held. The 1838 earthquake top-
stupas and views of the river back towards pled the superstructure, and its never been
Mandalay. There are several ways up, not completely reconstructed.
all of which have government ticket stands Another few hundred metres to the south,
en route; trishaw drivers (if not taxi drivers) Strand Rd passes the entrance to the sand-
will know where to go. stone Aungmyelawka Paya, built in 1783 by
Tilawkaguru (donation K500), near the south- Bodawpaya on the site of his residence be-
west base of the hill, is an impressive fore he became king. It was built in imita-
mural-filled cave temple that dates from tion of the Shwezigon Paya at Nyaung U,
1672. Though much was damaged by fire Bagan (see p309). Its a little frayed at the
80 years ago (and frisky bats hang out in edges, but you can climb up the stupa rim
some chambers), a walk-through can be to look around.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 254 A N C I E N T C I T I E S M i n g u n www.lonelyplanet.com
Forts this simple hotel has clean rooms. Cheaper,

Overlooking the Ayeyarwady are three fan-cooled rooms have a shared bathroom;
forts, built by an Italian engineer as a last- more expensive rooms have generator-run
ditch defence by the Myanmar people in electricity, air-con and private bathroom.
the Third Anglo-Burmese War. About 1km Downstairs, youll find a good restaurant
south of Aungmyelawka Paya is the most serving Chinese and Bamar food. Coming
easily accessed, the riverside Asekhan Fort from Mandalay, turn right at the market,
(Fort Savage). Follow Strand Rd south (to then take the second right.
its end) and then continue on side roads At research time, the Sein Pann Myaing Inn
about 200m further south. (%072-21200; Thudumar St; r K3500), one block
Once the site of a minor 1886 battle, the west and three blocks south of the market,
fort now is mostly home to grazing cows charged foreigners the local price for its
(they match the intelligence of our army clean, basic rooms.
now, one local joked). Just north, under a Greenland Restaurant, a block north of
large tree, is a small walled cemetery with the Happy, has good noodles, draft beer
three tombstones of British soldiers. and a courtyard setting for half the price
From the riverside wall you can just of Happy.
make out the other forts across the river.
Thabyedan Fort is amid the trees, just south Getting There & Around
of the Ava Bridge. (You can easily see the Sagaing is about 20km southwest of Man-
walls from the road to Mandalay.) dalay and is reached by a road that crosses
To the south (in Inwa, maybe 200m south the Ayeyarwady via the Ava Bridge (p252).
of Lawgtharaphu Paya) are the barely visible Pick-ups stop on the main road just after
remains of a concrete wall (low, with much the bridge and near the market. See p249
vegetation), where Singyone Fort stood. for information about taxis to Sagaing.
Some locals lament that the forts werent Its possible to catch local transport 10km
used to stand up to the British more. Advi- north to Mingun a few times a day.
sors persuaded Thibaw that it was futile. Sagaing is spread out, so its best to get
around by trishaw or taxi. A trishaw costs
KAUNGHMUDAW PAYA about K2500 for half a day.
ek;='"muet;'.ur;"
The best known of the Sagaing stupas, ac- MINGUN
tually 10km west towards Monywa, is the m='"kn'"
Kaunghmudaw Paya. The enormous white About 11km upriver from Mandalay (and
dome rises 46m and was modelled after the visible from Mandalay Hill), Mingun (admis-
Mahaceti (Great Stupa) in Sri Lanka (al- sion incl Sagaing US$3) is as interesting to visit for
though legend also says that it represents the its ancient sites as for the pleasant boat trip
breast of a Myanmar queen). Also known by to get there. Minguns half-dozen sites run
its Pali name, Rajamanicula, the stupa was along the bank on the opposite side of the
built in 1636 to commemorate Inwas estab- Ayeyarwady from Mandalay. Most famous
lishment as the royal capital of Myanmar. is the partly completed Mingun Paya, which
Around the base of the structure are 812 would have been the worlds largest paya
stone pillars, each 1m to 1.5m high and (if King Bodawpaya hadnt upped and died
with a small hollow for an oil lamp. Images before it was finished). The village itself is a
of nat can be seen in the 120 niches that also friendly place although some hawkers can
circle the base. A nearly 3m-high polished be a little too friendly.
marble slab stands in a corner of the paya The ticket includes admission to Sagaing
grounds; its 86 lines record details of the and is valid for five days. Depending on
monuments construction. water levels, boats usually drop off passen-
Youll need to hire a taxi in Sagaing to gers at the southern end of the site. In the
get there. past, some travellers have arranged to stay at
one of the monasteries here, but its frowned
Sleeping & Eating upon nowadays.
Happy Hotel (%072-21420; s US$8-15, d US$15-$25; Food stalls, art galleries and souvenir
a) A couple of blocks north of the highway, stands line the road. Most visitors have time
www.lonelyplanet.com A N C I E N T C I T I E S M i n g u n 255
MINGUN 0 50 m this pagoda, but no-one was doing so at
To Village
research time.
(150m)
MINGUN PAYA
m='"kn'".ur;"
Hsinbyume Paya
Looming high and wide on the inland side
of the road, the Mingun Paya is actually just
Phaung Daw
the cracked brick base of the original plan.
Ayeyarwady
Thi Monastery
Mingun Bell
The grandiose pagoda King Bodawpaya had
Mingun Sanitarium
in mind was set to reach 150m (three times
(Buddhist Infirmary) the payas present size). Construction began
May Kawan
in 1790 with a labour force of thousands
Alternate Landing
Molmi Paya
Monastery Place of slaves and prisoners of war. Bodawpaya
often supervised construction from a set-up
residence on an island offshore. (You can
River
Plaque Chinthe bet the slaves loved that.) Work halted in

Ruins
Display
1819 when Bodawpaya died.
Path when river
is low An earthquake split the monument in
Mingun 1838 and reduced it to partial rubble its
Paya
Settawya
Paya
possibly the worlds largest pile of bricks.
But what a pile! Each side of the enormous
base measures 72m, and the lowest terrace
Pondaw Paya
measures 140m. There are projecting four-
layer lintels over the porticoes on each of the
four sides. Beautiful glazed tiles in brown,
Boats to/from
Mandalay pale brown, cream and green were intended
To Sagaing
(18km) to be set in panels around the terrace; some
of these tiles can be seen in the small build-
ing in front of the enormous ruin.
for a quick noodle meal. The path along the Despite its dilapidated state, you must
road if the water level is down is often go barefoot if you intend to climb the base.
less dusty. From the flat top you have a fine view of
the Hsinbyume Paya, Mingun village and
Sights the river.
PONDAW PAYA A pair of large chinthe (half-lion, half-
puet;'.ur;" dragon guardian deities) have just about
On the southern end of the site (just north crumbled away at their guard posts closer
of the usual boat drop-off point), this un- to the river.
assuming structure, a 5m-high white pa-
goda, is a working model for the gigantic, MINGUN BELL
unfinished Mingun Paya, 100m north. Its m='"kn'"ex:='"el;='"
worth seeing to get a picture of what could In 1808 Bodawpaya had a gigantic bronze bell
have been. cast to go with his gigantic stupa. Weighing
55,555 viss (90 tonnes), the bell is claimed
SETTAWYA PAYA to be the largest hung, uncracked bell in the
ck'et;'r;.ur;" world. (A larger bell in Moscow is cracked.)
On the river immediately north of the The same earthquake that shook the zedi
Pondaw Paya is the Settawya Paya, a hollow, base also destroyed the bells supports, so it
vaulted shrine containing a footprint of the was hung in a new tazaung (shrine build-
Buddha. King Bodawpaya brought the footing) close to the riverboat landing. The bell
print to Mingun when the relic chamber is about 4m high and over 5m across at the
in the base of his huge pahto (temple) was lip. You can scramble right inside it, and
sealed up. Settawya Paya was built in 1811. some helpful bystander will give it a good
Some travellers have reported that an thump so that you can hear the ring from
official charged extra admission to see the interior.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 256 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T M o n y w a www.lonelyplanet.com
Between the Mingun Paya and the bell

(100m north) stands Molmi Paya; this new GOVERNMENT TRIPS
pavilion shelters a life-size standing bronze From Mandalays MTT office (see p229) you
statue of Molmi Sayadaw, a famous Buddhist can arrange (expensive) trips to Khamti
abbot from the nearby village of Molmi. (Naga Land) in January and Mogok (so-
called Ruby Land) year round. Trips start
HSINBYUME PAYA at US$400 per person. Its presently the
z='fBmy'.ur;" only way to visit these destinations.
Also known as Myatheindan, and built by
King Bagyidaw in 1816, three years before
he succeeded Bodawpaya as king, this stupa your hotel. Its almost always possible to
was constructed in memory of his senior show up and get a ticket. If you miss the re-
wife, the Hsinbyume princess. It is built as a turn boat, youll need to arrange your own
representation of the Sulamani Paya, which, ride back (for about K7000).
according to the Buddhist plan of the cos- Chartered express boats also go to Min-
mos, stands atop Mt Meru (the mountain gun from here; a return ticket is K8000 to
that stands at the centre of the universe). K12,000. These boats are usually geared to
The seven white-washed wavy terraces tour groups.
around the stupa represent the seven moun- A loosely scheduled pick-up connects Sa-
tain ranges around Mt Meru, while the five gaing with Mingun, usually arriving in the
kinds of mythical monsters can be found in morning and returning around 1pm.
niches on each terrace level. This structure
was also badly damaged in the 1838 quake,
but King Mindon had it restored in 1874.
Just north, past some of the souvenir has-
UPPER SAGAING
sle, is the village. DISTRICT
MINGUN SANITARIUM North of Sagaing town (p252) near Manda-
Also called the Buddhist Infirmary, this nurs- lay, the Sagaing District sprawls northward
ing home for the elderly is worth checking to the Indian border. Few tourists visit here,
out. Visitors (and donations) are welcome. which is part of its appeal. Monywa is near
The friendly head nurse here is Thwe Thwe some top-shelf attractions; historically key
Aye, who speaks excellent English. You can Shwebo (p260) kicked off Myanmars last
wander into the two monasteries on either dynasty. Further north and only reachable
side of the building. by air Kalaymyo (p262) is a quiet valley
town with a sizeable Chin community.
Festivals & Events During the 17th century, when the Por-
The Mingun Nat Festival takes place between tuguese adventurer Philip De Brito was de-
the 5th and 10th days of the waxing moon feated at Thanlyin, all the Portuguese and
of Tabaung (February/March). This cele- Eurasians living at De Britos 13-year-old
bration pays homage to the brother and colony were exiled to areas around Mo-
sister of the Teak Tree, who drowned in the nywa and Shwebo (notably the villages of
river while clinging to a trunk. Monhla and Chantha near Monywa). Called
bayingyis, rare fair-haired residents may oc-
Getting There & Away casionally be seen, although no linguistic or
Government-run riverboats to Mingun de- cultural legacies remain.
part at 9am from the western end of 26th
St in Mandalay, and leave Mingun at 1pm MONYWA
to make the return journey. A return ticket mur;
is K1500. The upriver journey usually takes %071
about an hour (and occasionally goes by the Set on the eastern bank of the Chindwin
rare Irrawaddy dolphins), though some- River, about 136km west of Mandalay,
times it can take as long as two hours. Monywa is a scrappy trade town of some
Its possible to buy tickets in advance 300,000 people. Theres not much in its yard
from the small jetty office (%22294), or from for travellers, but a few superb attractions
www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T M o n y w a 257
nearby (see p259) warrant more than an Sights
exhausting day trip from Mandalay. The old market, a couple of blocks south of
In WWII Monywa found itself between the clock tower, is an interesting area and
the British and Japanese forces twice; it was as active as the new market built by the
flattened by bombs in 1942 and 1945. The government in the 1990s.
area particularly west of the river was The central Shwezigon Paya is worth a peek,
for many post-war years a centre for the but Monywas primary religious site is the
Burmese Communist Party. Maha Ledi Kyaung, about 750m northeast of
Monywa sees a lot of trade to and from the Bogyoke roundabout (on the other side
India. Agricultural products and hard- of the train tracks). Built in 1886 by order
woods (including teak) come in from across of renowned Pali scholar Ledi Sayadaw, this
the Chindwin River via a new Chindwin monastery shares a concept with Mandalays
Bridge that opened north of town in 2004. Kuthodaw Paya (p232); its 806 stone slabs
Monywa is famous for churning out the are inscribed with Buddhist scriptures.
rough cotton blankets you see in cheaper Monywas Strand Rd is a two-level road
guesthouse rooms around the country. along the Chindwin River. It functions nicely
as a dusk promenade for strolling couples,
Orientation & Information monks and a couple of testosterone types.
The Shwezigon Paya, north of the old mar- About 5km north of town, near the new
ket, occupies the centre of Monywa, with Chindwin Bridge, is the Shwe Daung U medita-
the chief landmark being the clock tower tion centre.
on Bogyoke St to its southeast, and the Bog-
yoke roundabout to its northeast. Sleeping
Monywa e-Business Group Internet (Station Rd; Win Unity Resort Hotel (in Yangon %01-227 389)
per hr K800; h9am-11pm) is on the first floor of This promising new midrange hotel, about
an official-looking building. 1km north of the clock tower, was under
0 500 m
MONYWA 0 0.3 miles
A To Win Unity Resort B C D

Hotel (1km); Chindwin
Bridge (5km);
Shwe Daung U
Meditation Centre (5km); 2
Airport (10km);
Budalin (28km)
1
Rd
-U
5 To Shive Gu
Ye
Ni Paya (20km);
a-
Sports
yw
Hospital Kyaukka;
Ground
on
Shwebo
Bogyoke St
8
INFORMATION
Monywa e-Business Group
Internet....................................1 B2
6 1 Train
R d) Station
2 tation Bogyoke SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Lan (S 9
Buta Statue Maha Ledi Kyaung.......................2 B1
Moonlight 7
Shwezigon Paya...........................3 A2
Cinema 3
4
Clock Tower SLEEPING
Golden Arrow Hotel.....................4 B2
13 12 Monywa Hotel.............................5 B1
Shwe Taung Tarn Hotel...............6 A2
Old
Market EATING
Fantasy Food Centre....................7 B2
Shwe Kyar Restaurant..................8 B2
11 New Shwe Taung Tarn Restaurant.....(see 6)
Ka Market Su Restaurant...............................9 B2
na
3 r
La
n Zedi TRANSPORT
(St
Ch ran Bus Station.................................10 B3
d Rd
in abin
Bo
Ri dwi Rd ng T Jetty...........................................11 A3
Nyau To Great Hotel &
gy
)
ve n
ok
r Pick-ups to Kyaukka...................12 B2
e
Bus Station (1km); Pick-ups to Thanbodday.............13 B2

To Hpo Win
St
Thanboddhay Paya
Daung Caves (25km) (20km); Mandalay (136km)
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 258 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T M o n y w a www.lonelyplanet.com
construction at research time. Plans for a restaurant artfully prepares its tasty rice
pool and tennis court, and the riverside lo- dishes. There are three eating areas inside,
cation north of town, would likely make it in the leafy garden, and up on the modern
Monywas splashiest sleep. wood-decked rooftop.
Shwe Taung Tarn Hotel & Restaurant (%21478; Fantasy Food Centre (Bogyoke St, near clock tower;
70 Station Rd; r per person US$5-8; a) The higher- BBQ skewers K50-300; h8am-10pm) This big bar-
priced doubles in this central hotel are sur- becue beer station has plenty of life, thanks
prisingly comfy, set behind a lush garden mostly to the Myanmar Beer on tap. The
and the old building (which houses the menu is mostly meat.
cheaper rooms). There are wooden floors,
balconies and air con (if the powers on it Getting There & Away
usually is). The TVs had no channels at AIR
last pass. The free breakfast is served in the The shiny new airport is a 30-minute ride
restaurant next door (see below). English- north of town, with connections to Manda-
speaking staff members hire out bicycles lay, Yangon and Kalaymyo.
and help arrange day trips.
Monywa Hotel (%21581; Bogyoke St; s/d US$15/ BOAT
20; a) About 500m north of the clock Ferries head up the Chindwin River to
tower, off the highway north, the Monywa Kalaymyo in four days, but the route was
is a leafy complex reminiscent of a barracks. restricted for foreigners at research time.
There are 50 bungalow-style motel rooms, Sadly, there was no boat service downriver
each with nice dark-wood floors and TVs to Pakokku.
juiced by satellite, but the details are a little
cheap (eg bubbly vinyl floors in the bath- BUS
room). Rates include breakfast. Monywas bus station, off the highway to-
Golden Arrow Hotel (%21548; Bogyoke St, across wards Mandalay 1.5km south of the clock
from the clock tower; s/d US$5/10; a) This is the tower, has no English signs.
best deal for a fiver in town. Clean (to At research time, a nice express air-con
the point of being clinical) rooms above a bus left for Yangon (K6000, 13 hours) at
bank reopened as a hotel in 2004. Rooms 6am. Hourly buses connected Monywa with
have satellite TV, and windows are painted Mandalay from 5am (K700, four hours)
translucent white. Rates include breakfast. and Shwebo (K700, four hours) from 6am.
Great Hotel (%22431; Bogyoke St; s US$10/15; a) Note that buses to (not from) Monywa from
In an unflattering location next to the bus Mandalay were often reluctant to take for-
station, rooms here are OK, not great. eigners at press time (see p244).
Four daily buses (presently leaving at
Eating 6.30am, 9.30am, 12.30pm and 3pm) go to
Shwe Kyar Restaurant (Thazi St; dishes K1000; h8am- Pakokku (K600, 4 hours) to catch the
9.30pm) A block to the northeast of the Bog- ferry to Bagan (see p281).
yoke roundabout is this clean and airy, See opposite, p260 and p260 for details of
concrete-floored, wooden-boothed Chinese- local transport to sites around Monywa.
Myanmar restaurant. The Shwe Kyar has an
English menu with typical but tasty shrimp, CAR
pork and chicken dishes (and nine veggie By taxi its only a three-hour drive to or
options). Theres no English sign, but its from Mandalay on a decent two-lane road.
at the base of a modern burgundy-coloured The going rate in Mandalay is US$30 or
building. US$35, depending on petrol prices.
Su Restaurant (Station Rd; dishes K1500; h9am-
9pm) Just east of the northern Shwezigon TRAIN
Paya entrance, this friendly Myanmar res- Monywa is on the MandalayBudalin branch
taurant has all-you-can-eat, pick-and-point railway, but service to Mandalay (six to seven
pots of curries (that come with 10 or so hours) bumps along at a far slower pace than
condiments) that feed many local families. bus or car. At last pass, a ticket agent quoted
Shwe Taung Tarn Restaurant (%21478; 70 Sta- foreigners K240, then K3000, for the jour-
tion Rd; dishes about K1000) This popular Chinese ney; and we saw passengers pushing a faulty
www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T A r o u n d M o n y w a 259
carriage to another track, three hours behind GETTING THERE & AWAY
the scheduled noon departure. Thanboddhay Paya, near the eponymous
village, is 20km southeast of Monywa, a few
Getting Around kilometres east of the highway to Mandalay.
Trishaw and blue taxis are the main form Share taxis to the sites cost K6000 to K7000.
of local transport (the police outlawed the Direct local buses to Thanboddhay village
four-seater motorcycle taxis in late 2004). A leave frequently from Bogyoke Rd south of
trishaw ride from the bus station to the cen- the clock tower in Monywa. From the vil-
tre is about K400 or K500; a ride between lage, you can hire a taxi or take a pick-up.
the centre and the jetty for boats across the
Chindwin River is K150. Hpo Win Daung Caves
White plain-clothes taxis linger on Sta- fiu"v='"et;='gU
tion Rd, near the northern Shwezigon Paya Across the Chindwin River and 25km west
entrance. You can generally find cheaper of Monywa, Hpo Win Daung is a long
blue taxis near the clock tower. A blue taxi mountain shaped (locals claimed convinc-
costs K3000 for the 30-minute ride north to ingly) like a reclining Buddha. It features
the airport. 492 cave temples built inside the limestone
Most hotels hire out bikes for about cliffs. The caves (admission US$2), built between
K1500 per day. the 14th and 18th centuries, sprawl up and
down the west side (along the Buddha
AROUND MONYWA head) of the mountain, and are packed with
Thanboddhay Paya & Around 2588 Buddhas and some boldly coloured
smed.ur;" murals.
The magnificent, carnivalesque Thanboddhay To the southwest of the long-inhabited
Paya (admission US$3; h6am-5pm) bursts with hills lies the Pondaung-pon-nya moun-
pink, orange, yellow and blue spikes, and has tain range, where the fossilised remains of
so many Buddha images in the inside nooks Pondaung Man (a primate ancestor who may
and crannies in halls and archways one have lived 30 million years ago) were found.
tally makes it 582,357 that it feels like a The hills are named after U Hpo Win, a fa-
Buddha House of Mirrors to walk through. mous zawgyi (alchemist) hermit who once
Some compare the building to Borobudur in lived among them.
Indonesia, though Thanboddhay is smaller. From the starting point, the main caves
Its certainly unique for Myanmar. lead up and left (west). A guide is not a
Nearby is a display of moving waves sur- bad idea, as some caves arent easy to find;
rounding a praying Buddha, where worship- one English-speaking guide (at least) hangs
pers toss offerings into a floating basket, around the Monywa jetty and offers four-
and a pastel tower with encircling steps (and to six-hour tours for K5000.
often young kite-flyers up the top). The cave chambers vary in condition.
Its worth heading 4km further east to see In some there are giant reclining Buddhas;
a serious Buddha-rama at the western edge others are packed with smaller Buddhas and
of the Po Khaung Hills. Peering from a hill- have streams of light shining in from holes
top is a 90m reclining Buddha you can climb in the walls. Many murals are painted 3D
to. Behind it, a giant standing Buddha was whats above the eye level is far, whats
under construction at research time it will below is near. In one mural, you can see
break 167m when its completed (in 2006), Portuguese-looking persons burning in
making it the worlds second tallest. hell. Sadly, relic smugglers have feasted on
Just west, the enormous white Aung Setkya some statues, but much remains intact and
Paya, standing 130m high and surrounded thankfully unrestored.
by 1060 smaller stupas, has dark tunnels The weeklong Hpo Win Daung festival,
inside that lead to the stupa rim for nice the years biggest here, takes place in No-
views. There are more tasty views from the vember. The area has 12 monasteries, where
tower amid 8000 (and counting) Buddhas its possible to overnight or arrange longer
in the sprawling Bodhi Tataung (1000 Bud- stays for meditation.
dhas), begun in 1994; its a couple of hun- The facing hill to the south, Shwe Ba Taung,
dred metres west of the stupa. features 46 more caves.
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 260 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T S h w e b o www.lonelyplanet.com
GETTING THERE & AWAY couple of snakes do their slither; a Monywan

Its a bit of a heist coming here. From Mon- warned, Youre going to Shwebo? Watch
ywas jetty, special boats (aka local ferries out for cobras, brother. Nevertheless, many
minus the locals) whisk foreigners across Myanmar folk reach for the dirt when com-
the Chindwin River to Nyaungbingyi vil- ing to Shwebo. Its considered good luck to
lage for a whopping K1500 each way; boats take home some earth from Victory Land
run 6am from to 6pm. (as Shwebos reputation goes).
During festivals you can take a bus from
the village to the caves. At other times youll Orientation & Information
need to hire a jeep (K5000 for up to five Shwebos main street, Aung Zeya St, runs
people) at the yellow booth on the right in from north to south past the market and
Nyaungbingyi. The ride takes 45 minutes leads north.
each way. Its possible to go by taxi from The post office, on a dirt road northwest
Monywa, via the new Chindwin Bridge. No of the market, sends postcards overseas, but
English signs are posted. not faxes. Theres Internet access east of the
market at MCC Shwebo Computer (per hr K1500;
Kyaukka h7am-9pm).
ekY;k'k;
About 45 minutes east of town by taxi (or Sights
double by bicycle) along a lovely tamarind Several pagodas in the blocks south of the
treelined road, Kyaukka has been a centre market give Shwebos centre a gold-studded
for preChiang Mai style lacquerware since backdrop. The biggest, Shwe Daza Paya, is
the Konbaung era. Pieces are more basic and said to have been built by King Narapa-
utilitarian than those youll find in Bagan. tisithu over 500 years ago. Maw Daw Myin Tha
The prices arent necessarily cheaper, but Paya, about 1.5km north of the market, is
the household factories are worth checking the citys most important Buddhist site and
out; there are also some shops outside the a peaceful enough place. Take Aung Zeya St
interesting 14th-century Shwe Gu Ni Paya (fa- north, past the train tracks, where an Eng-
mous for its wish-fulfilling powers), about lish sign points to it, about 100m east.
750m west of town. If youre waiting for the bus, Aung Mye Hsu
Few tourists come out here, and wide- Taung (aka Army Pagoda) is about 100m
eyed looks from locals often lean into out- south of the bus station. Its said to be the
right laughter. spot used by King Alaungpaya as a staging
All Shwebo-bound buses go by Kyaukka, point before going into battle, and it remains
and pick-ups leave from near Monywas old the citys wishing ground (for military too).
market during the day. A 15-ministupa maze up the front has glass-
spiked 1m-high walls to deter cheats.
SHWEBO As the capital, Shwebo was an enormous
er.ui walled city. Remnants include bits of the
%075 walls and the moat (the most visible legacy
Messier and dustier than Monywa, Shwebo of Alaungpayas original plan); the moat is
sees even fewer tourists, but its sights and best seen from Yan Gyi Aung Park, northeast
historical importance King Alaungpaya of the centre.
kicked off Myanmars third empire here, and The British built a jail on the Alaungpaya
the area has been settled since at least the 4th Palace grounds (admission K50, camera fee K200),
century AD can make for a rewarding day which the government moved recently
or two for the adventurer. (See p38 for more and rebuilt as the palace; you can see a few
about the great Alaungpaya.) structures, similar in form to the Mandalay
Occupying the flat (and hot) plain be- Palace (but less complete). At the gate is
tween the Mu and Ayeyarwady Rivers, the King Alaungpaya Memorial, where his body
Shwebo has a Bamar majority, and size- was burned following his death in 1760.
able Muslim and Christian communities.
The local economy depends on the trade Sleeping
of nuts, pulses, rice and sesame cultivated If youre looking for luxury, stay in Man-
on surrounding farms, where more than a dalay instead.

www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T S h w e b o 261
0 500 m INFORMATION
SHWEBO 0 0.3 miles MCC Shwebo Computer..........................................................1 B2

Police Station............................................................................2 B1
A B Post Office...............................................................................3 A1
Station
To Train To Maw Daw
Station Myin Tha Paya Yan Gyi SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
(1km) (1km) Aung Park
Moat
Alaungpaya Palace Grounds....................................................4 A2
Aung Zeya St
To Ye-U Rd
9 13 Aung Mye Hsu Taung.............................................................5 A3
1 Yan Gyi Aung St King Alaungpaya Memorial......................................................6 A2
2 To Kyaukmyaung Shwe Daza Paya......................................................................7 A2
(29km); Mogok
Shwekyettho (150km) SLEEPING
Shwe Thein
Paya Daw Paya Myo Ma..................................................................................8 A2
10 el Th
3 Letw ondara Zin Wai Lar Guest House..........................................................9 B1
12 Dhamma St
Thuka St EATING
Mayawady St Eden Culinary Garden.............................................................10 B1
To Yawdaw a St
Village (7km) Alaung Pay 11
Open-air Burmese Restaurants...............................................11 B2
Zeigyo Shwe Taung...........................................................................12 B1
4 6 (Central 1
Market) Hospital
DRINKING
8 Beer Station............................................................................13 B1
2 Shwe Kyet
Thabin Shwe Taung Paya
Hte St Chanthaya TRANSPORT
Paya Bus Station.............................................................................14 A3
7 Chanthaya-gyi
Paya
Shwebo
College morning, and some booths in the inside bar
at the back. Eden is notable for having good
Shwe Daza Paya St
Chinese and Myanmar dishes, some Euro-

pean food (hamburgers, eggs and toast; note
that the orange juice is actually soft drink),
3 and an English menu. Homeboy waiters sure
To Hanlin
Shweb
o Taung
Creek
(27km) put up a fuss to serve the rare foreigner.
To Mandalay (114km);
Monywa (134km) Shwe Taung (Aung Zeya St; dishes K500-800) With
14
5 its enviable corner spot, this popular Chinese
brick-floor eatery is as good a place as any
to down a cold beer, eat some noodles and
Zin Wai Lar Guest House (%21263; Yan Gyi Aung watch Shwebo pedal-squeak by. Theres no
St; r K5500-10,000) Shwebos best guesthouse menu, but staff will understand no pork, no
(no doubt), just off the main drag Aung beef, no chicken if you want veggie fare.
Zeya St, is signed only in Burmese but has On the north side of the market are sev-
friendly English-speaking staff. A modern, eral appealing open-air Myanmar restau-
three-storey affair, it has 14 ordinary dou- rants buzzing (with insects too) after dark.
bles with common bathroom and squat Theres also a small beer station facing the
toilet, two double rooms with attached moat from Yan Gyi Aung Park.
bathroom and sit-down toilet, and a lone
triple with attached bathroom, fridge and Getting There & Away
local TV. Breakfast is included. BOAT
Myo Ma (%21259; r K9000) A back-up to the Ferries heading up and down the Ayeyar-
Zin Wai Lar, Myo Ma has small cell-like wady River between Mandalay and Katha
rooms with concrete floors, wall-to-wall stop at Kyaukmyaung, 29km to the east;
thin mattresses, and private bathroom with pick-ups run between Kyaukmyaung and
cold-water shower and squat toilets. A small Shwebo.
fan is strapped to the ceiling. The English-
speaking manager, however, is great, and BUS
can help find motorcycle transport to Hanlin The Shwebo bus station is about 1km south
(see p262). Myo Ma is south of the market. of the centre. A few bus companies travel
the 114km route between Mandalay and
Eating & Drinking Shwebo. The busiest is Yan Gyi Aungs 35-
Eden Culinary Garden (Aung Zeya St; dishes K450-900; seat bus (K700, three hours), which departs
h6am-10pm) An inviting restaurant with hourly from 6am to 4pm from Mandalays
baked goods up the front, a leafy courtyard bus station off 88th St (between 22nd and
filled with tea-and-noodle diners in the 21st Sts).
A R O U N D M A N D A L AY 262 U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T A r o u n d S h w e b o www.lonelyplanet.com
Hourly buses also connect Shwebo with to hire a jeep (if you find one); a motorcycle
Monywa via a quiet 1-lane road (K700, with driver is about K6500 for the trip, and
3 hours). Pick-ups make these trips from its helpful to have a local figure out where
the same starting and stopping points for a to go. Its possible to bike (with soft seat!),
couple of hundred kyat less, but they take but its a hard full-day trip. The road to
an extra hour. Halingyi begins south of the aqueduct next
to the bus station. After about 10km youll
TRAIN see a big pagoda across the water. At the
The Shwebo train station is 1km north of next village (the biggest youll see), turn left
the centre. Four daily trains travelling be- over the bridge; youre halfway there.
tween Mandalay and Myitkyina stop here
going either way. The best to catch for My- KALAYMYO
itkyina are the No 55 and the No 57, which kel"Dmiu
leave around 5pm or 7.15pm and take 19 %073
hours. For Mandalay, the No 58 leaves Travellers with up-for-grabs expectations
around 7.45am and takes 4 hours. Trains and an interest in meeting Chin folk with-
on this route are often late, though. out taking a government-guided trip to
Chin State can fly to Kalaymyo, a long
Getting Around way north of Mandalay and about 100km
Trishaws (and a few horse carts) are the from India. Theres not much to do in
main modes of public transport. A trishaw town, but its interesting for the make-up
ride from either station to the centre is of its population (half Burmese, half Chin)
K200 to K400. There are no taxis, but jeeps and its slender setting, ringed by far-off
are sometimes for hire. Ask at the guest- lush mountains (the town is 15km long and
houses about bike hire for about K1000 per rarely more than two blocks wide). Most
day. Much of the centre is easily walkable. foreign faces who do make it here belong
to Christian missionary types, who donate
AROUND SHWEBO time and money to the Chin population
About 26 butt-kicking kilometres southeast (who are 95% Christian), who live in the
of Shwebo, the town of Halingyi is set just western half of town. The Chin folk some-
south of the architectural remains of Han- times refer to Kalaymyo as Zomi. Theres
lin (also called Halin), a massive 3.2km by some local debate on who lived here first,
1.6km walled city from the Pyu kingdom Bamar or Chin.
(which existed between the 4th and 9th cen- Moonstar Internet (cnr Bogyoke Rd & Yu Dan Than
turies). Little is left, but locals can point out St; per hr 1500k; hclosed Sat) offers quiet access,
overgrown gates to the wall. In another part 1.5km west of the airport.
of town is a monastery with a small museum,
which has some pots and other artefacts Sights
excavated from the old city. Foreigners are restricted to staying within
Halingyi village is interesting in that its town. The downtown (Burmese) market, in and
set atop a network of hot springs; the water around the roundabout about 500m east of
is collected in stone cauldrons and pools for the airport, is worth a look. Many locals
bathing and washing clothes. Many stupas pluck on guitars around town; you can get
in the area are charmingly decrepit, their your own guitar here for K2000 to K3000.
bricks exposed or covered in vegetation. The principal Chin district, Tahan, is 3km
Foreigners almost never make it here. (At west of downtown and has a market too.
last pass, a teen swore we were the first for- Just before the sign, turn south on Taung
eigner theyd ever seen.) You may be asked Za Lat Rd to reach the local golf course, set
to show your passport and keep notes of below a small mountain with a pagoda you
what you see and when. Locals will most as- can reach by foot.
suredly lead you around. A donation would About 15km west of the airport, in the
be appreciated, but it wont be asked for. Chin Hills (and into restricted areas), is
Each day a lone tractor/taxi makes the Shukintha (aka Mt Zion View Point), where
trip out from Shwebos bus station, but it a local can usually take you if you ask at the
doesnt always make the trip back. Its best unsigned police stand near the Kalaymyo
www.lonelyplanet.com U P P E R S A G A I N G D I S T R I C T K a l a y m y o 263
University, about 10km west of airport. who provides good local information and
There are jaw-dropping views. has a bike to hire out or lend.
Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Around

Taung Za Lat Hotel (%21463; Bogyoke Rd; r per Boat and bus journeys here from Monywa
person US$10-15) The lone hotel licensed for were off limits for foreigners at research
foreigners is directly across the street from time. Myanma Airways has only a few
the airport. There are slightly grubby but weekly connections to Yangon (US$120
doable rooms and balconies, fans, screened or US$130 one way), Mandalay (US$50 or
windows and squashed squitoes left on the US$55) and Monywa (US$35 or US$40).
walls. The Chin staff speaks some English. The MA ticket office is halfway between the
More expensive rooms are slightly bigger airport and the downtown market; arrange
but not really worth it. to buy a ticket (with passport and dollars in
Youll find some eateries in Tahan and hand) at 9am the day before your flight.
around the downtown market. The best You can hail a truck between the mar-
is Thein Shwe Restaurant (%21313; Bogyoke Rd; ket and Tahan for K200 during the day and
dishes K600; h9am-9pm), about 100m west of up to K1000 after dark. Many locals offer
the roundabout. Its run by a welcoming a seat on the back of a bike or motorcycle
English-speaking Burmese-Chinese woman for free.
264
Bagan &
Central Myanmar
Dotting the 42-sq-km plain east of the curving Ayeyarwady, Bagans 3000-some temples not
only make up the most wondrous sight in Myanmar, but rival Cambodias Angkor Wat in
terms of scope and jaw-droppability. If you are lukewarm on ruins, two or three days might
C E N T R A L M YA N M A R
change your temperature; if you love them, save as much time as you can afford.
BAGAN &
The tallest and most majestic temples are awesome, mingling Hindu styles from India
with local-brewed Buddhist images in, atop and around the structures. Some get touristy,
with postcard vendors following tour groups. Many others remain neglected, for you to
explore on your own. In any, shine your torch into dark corners and youre likely to find
a tight stairway leading up to wide-open views, or the frayed remains of a vibrant mural
depicting Buddhas past lives that rarely sees an eyeball. See p293 for more details on
Bagans temples.
Apart from the temple-hop, nearby volcano-created Mt Popa (visible from a number of
temples) beckons day-trippers with its spiritual home of Myanmars 37 nat (spirits). In the
evenings, theres the pizza chase in Nyaung Us expanding dining scene, or finer eats on
the riverside in New Bagan (Bagan Myothit) or Old Bagan hotels.
Elsewhere in central Myanmar are the lost cities of the dry zone busy transit towns
that mean a lot if you are looking to buy or sell bags of rice, but less to travellers. Yet
any of these towns riverside Pyay and Magwe on the YangonBagan highway; Taungoo,
Pyinmana and Meiktila on the busier YangonMandalay highway could soak up a quality
day or two for the adventurer willing to make up their own fun.
HIGHLIGHTS
Mandalay
As the sun drops, follow the hordes, or find your own
Mandalay &
temple, for Bagan sunsets (p300). Bagan Ferry
One of Bagans most powerful temples, Ananda Pahto

(p300) features a 51m-high corncob (sikhara) top and Bagan Ananda
Pahto
lush murals at its neighbouring monastery. Mt Popa
The best way to reach Bagan is by a day-trip on a

MandalayBagan ferry (p272) down the Ayeyarwady.
A rocky outcrop east of Bagan, Mt Popa (p277) is the
spiritual home to the 37 nat and literal home to loads
of monkeys.
The ancient oval Pyu city of Thayekhittaya (p286), near
Pyay, cant rival Bagan in scope, but visiting is usually
just you and your ox cart. Thayekthittaya
Bagan & Central Myanmar
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N & C E N T R A L MYA N MA R 265
0 40 km
BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR 0 20 miles
Madaya To Hsipaw
Monywa SAGAING Sadaung

DIVISION Taungbyone
Chaung U Pyin U Lwin

Mandalay
Chin
er
Myinmu Sagaing Amarapura Riv
e
ng
dwin
yit
Paleik M
n R
rive
Myine
Yesagyo
To Chin State Kyaukse
(50km)
Pauk Myingyan
BAGAN &
Yebya Nwa-htou gyi
Myittha
Pakokku
Taungtha
Lawksawk
MANDALAY
Nyaung U DIVISION
n
Gonkor
ai
Bagan Ananda SHAN

Pl
Patho
an
Saman River
STATE
y
ng
yi
M
Seikpyu Mt Popa
Chauk Kyaukpadaung Meiktila
Salay Thazi
Aye
ya
rwa
Sinbyugyun
To Taunggyi
dy River
2 Pyawbwe Aungban
Kalaw
Salin
Inle
Yenan-gyoung Lake
Yamethin
Sagu
Minbu
Magwe
Pinlon
Tatkon
Taungdwingyi
Beikthano
Pyinmana
Lewe
MAGWE
DIVISION
Sitto
ung R
Myayde
Tayet
ive
r
1
KAYIN
Yedashe STATE
BAGO
DIVISION
RAKHAING Paukkhaung Taungoo

STATE
Pyay
Thayekthittaya
Shwedaung
To Bago (170km);
Yangon (250km)
Akauk Taung
266 B A G A N O r i e n t a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
HISTORY
Moving armies led by various people
the Pyu, the Mon, the Burmese swish-
BAGAN
swashed across this central plain, the heart pug
of Myanmar, over the centuries. The area Officially known as the Bagan Archaeolo-
around Pyay served as the Pyu capital from gical Zone, this 42-sq-km area, 190km
the 5th to 9th centuries AD; some consider south of Mandalay and 690km north of Yan-
the Pyu as founders of Myanmars first em- gon, includes the principal areas Nyaung U,
pire, though little remains known of this Old Bagan and New Bagan. This section
vanished group. Bagans burst of energy ran includes sleeping, eating and transport op-
two-and-a-half centuries, beginning in 1047 tions. See p293 for the history and descrip-
and ending as footsteps of Kublai Khan tions of the temples themselves.

raiders approached (literally) in 1287.
BAGAN &
See p293 for more on Bagans history. ORIENTATION

The Bagan Archaeological Zone is a mas-
CLIMATE sive area, not immediately a breeze to get
This area comprises the bulk of the dry to grips with. The Ayeyarwady drifts by its
zone of Myanmar, and it remains hot and northern and western sides. Its most active
dusty for much of the year. Most visitors town is Nyaung U (p269), in the northeast
come in winter (November to February), corner. About 4km west, Old Bagan, in the
when daytime temperatures are a relatively zones northwest corner, is the former site
chilly 30C during the day; about 10C at of the village that moved to New Bagan,
night. From March to May, the hottest 3km south, in 1990. Between the two is
season, daytime temperatures boil at up to the scrappy village of Myinkaba, boasting a
43C. Rains peak in June and October, but long-running lacquerware tradition.
run throughout the monsoon. Intersecting paved roads make a 20km
oval that connects them. The BaganNyaung
GETTING THERE & AROUND U Rd (to the north) and more-level Anaw-
Nyaung U is the principal gateway for Bagan, rahta Rd (to the south), connect Nyaung
with a train station and airport. Most vis- U and Old Bagan; the BaganChauk Rd
itors by boat come downriver from Manda- leads south from Old Bagan to Myinkaba
lay. Despite being a major destination, most and New Bagan; the airport road heads
long-haul bus routes (eg YangonMandalay) northeast from New Bagan, past the small
miss Bagan, instead stopping at towns to the villages of Pwasaw and Minnanthu, to the
east; Pyinmana and Meiktila. But there are Nyaung UKyaukpadaung Rd, leading
a few direct bus links with Yangon, Man- north to Nyaung U. Just east of the junc-
dalay and Inle Lake. Coming from Yangon tion is the Nyaung U Airport, about 2km
may require mandatory changes in Pyay and southeast of town. The train station is 2km
Magwe, and taking a couple of nights. Trains south of the airport.
to the Bagan area are very slow. Most people In between it all, of course, is the bulk
coming directly from Yangon by road do so of Bagan action: the plain, featuring most
via Pyay and Magwe by private taxi. of the temples, all connected with a vast
WHERE TO STAY?
Old Bagan (p273) In the heart of the old palace walls; high-end hotels on the river cost from
US$50 to way more. Theres little life outside the hotels, but they are closest to the big-time
temples.
New Bagan (Bagan Myothit; p275) Here are popular riverside restaurants (particularly for
lunch), and the biggest choice of midrange hotels that charge from US$20 to US$40.
Nyaung U (p269) It has the liveliest restaurant options, tons of shoestringers guesthouses for
about US$5 and comfortable bungalows for US$20 or less, but Nyaung U is furthest from the
bulk of the ruins.
Temples of Bagan
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N Te m p l e s o f B a g a n 267
0 1 km
TEMPLES OF BAGAN 0 0.5 miles

A B C D
To Thetkyamuni (1km);
Kondawgyi Pahto (1km);
Kyauk Gu Ohnmin (2km)
9 38
1 Ayeyarwady
River
24 32

Old Bagan
ng U Rd 39 57 46
r 41
Nyau
13 35 ve
44
56
2 Ri 16
Bagan-
33 54
y Nyaung U
Archaeological 58 Rd ad
Museum
26 rah
ta
a rw 20
36 31
An
aw ey
Ay
0 300 m 34 45
BAGAN &
0 0.2 miles
Ny
Wetkyi-in 7
15
au
North Plain 60
ng
2
Rd
U
gU
-K
un
ya
ya
Tetthe
n- N
uk
59
ga
pa
Ba
da
W
un
et
ky
gR
18 i-i
n
d
8 Cree Bagan
k To Tuyan Taung; Tan Kyi;
47 Tower
Kyaukpadaung (42km);
Mt Popa (53km);

Old Bagan 19
Rd
ta
rah 61
aw
An Central Plain
To Airport (2km);
Train Station (4km)
3 Manu Kan
21
See Enlargement
52
49 51 53
27 43 37
23 Minnanthu
10
40 Kan
14
Minnanthu
50
28 Myinkaba South Plain
25 5
3
30
4
West Pwasaw
1
Bagan-Chauk Rd
29 55 17
11 East Pwasaw
48
Kontangyi35 B1
Old Palace Site...........................
Pahtothamya..............................36 B2
Payathonzu................................37 D3
42 Dhammayazika Paya..................11 C4 Pebinkyaung Paya......................38 A1
Eight-Faces Paya........................12 A5 Pitaka Taik..................................39 B1
Gawdawpalin Pahto...................13 A1 Pyathada Paya...........................40 C4
Gubyaukgyi...............................14 A4 Sapada Paya..............................41 D1
Gubyauknge..............................
Thuhekan
15 C2 Seinnyet Ama Pahto..................42 A5
New Bagan Hmyathat Umin.........................16 D1 Seinnyet Nyima Paya...............(see 42)
5 Hsu Taung Pye..........................17 C4 Shinbinthalyaung.......................43 A3
12 Htilominlo Pahto........................18 B2 Shwegugyi..................................44 B1
Thiripyitsaya k Izagawna...................................19 D3 Shwesandaw Paya......................45 B2
ee
Village Cr Kyanzittha Umin........................20 C2 Shwezigon Paya.........................46 C1
in
6 os Kyat Kan Kyaung.......................21 D3
4 Ye Sint Pahto..................................47 B3
To Sittana Paya (1km); Lawkananda Paya......................22 A5
Chauk (30km); Salay (36km) Somingyi Kyaung.......................48 A4
22 Leimyethna Pahto......................23 D3 Sulamani Kyaung.......................49 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mahabodhi Paya........................24 B1 Sulamani Pahto........................(see 49)
Abeyadana Pahto........................ 1 A4 Manuha Paya............................25 A4 Tawagu..................................... 50 C4
Ananda Ok Kyaung......................2 B1 Mimalaung Kyaung...................26 A2 Tayok Pye Paya......................... 51 D3
Ananda Pahto............................(see 2) Mingalazedi...............................27 A3 Thabeik Hmauk.........................52 C3
Anauk (West) Petleik Paya...........3 C4 Myazedi...................................(see 14) Thambula Pahto........................ 53 D3
Anauk Petleik Paya......................4 A5 Myinkaba Paya..........................28 A4 Thamiwhet Umin....................... 54 D2
Ashe (East) Petleik Paya............... 5 D4 Nagayon....................................29 A4 Thamuti & Kutha.......................55 B4
6 Nandamannya Pahto...............(see 21)
Ashe Petleik Paya........................ 6 A5 Thandawgya...............................56 B1
Aung Myi Bodhi Dhamma Nanpaya....................................30 A4 Tharaba Gate..............................57 B1
Yeiktha....................................7 C2 Nathlaung Kyaung.....................31 B2 Thatbyinnyu Pahto.....................58 B2
Buledi...........................................8 C3 New Palace Site..........................32 B1 Upali Thein.................................59 B2
Bupaya.........................................9 A1 Ngakywenadaung Paya..............33 B2 Wetkyi-in-Gubyaukgyi...............60 C2
Dhammayangyi Pahto................10 B3 Nyein Gon Paya.........................34 A2 Winidho Group.......................... 61 D3
268 B A G A N I n f o r m a t i o n www.lonelyplanet.com
network of bumpy dirt roads and trails. At (%061-60032; office in Bagan Hotel in Old Bagan; www
times, youll be well over a kilometre from .balloonsoverbagan.com; per person US$250). Most peo-
the nearest paved road. ple go in the morning. The price includes
pick-up from your hotel (around 5am). The
Maps cost is US$25 cheaper if you buy directly
In addition to the maps in this guide, you from the office a day in advance.
can purchase The Map of Bagan (K500) at Mt Popa Adventure Tours (%061-67158, 09-200
most hotels. It shows many of the paths 5501; day trip Oct-Apr US$45) offers full-day guided
though not always 100% accurate and tours of Mt Popa including a swim at the
youre likely to mark it up with the latest posh Mt Popa Mountain Resort. If you
word of nontouristy sunset and the like. dont want a guide, you can do the same far
cheaper by hired taxi.

INFORMATION You can also arrange tours to Chin State
BAGAN &
All foreign visitors to Bagan Archaeological from Bagan (see p329).

Zone must pay a US$10 entrance fee. If sell-
ers dont find you when you arrive, your GETTING THERE & AROUND
hotel will sell it to you. It technically lasts This section explains how to get around the
as long as youd like to stay. Be sure to take sites (temples, towns, stations). See also the
it with you if youre leaving the zone on a Getting There & Away sections for Nyaung
day trip. U (p272), Old Bagan (p275) or New Bagan
For travel information, often an excellent (p277) for details on getting to Yangon, Inle
source of local information is hotel staff, Lake, Mandalay and other destinations.
or try Nyaung Us Ever Sky Information
Service (opposite) or the government-run To/From the Stations
MTT office in New Bagan (p275). From the boat jetty near Old Bagan, there
Nyaung U has a post office. You can get are set fees to go to hotels by trishaw, horse
online in Nyaung U and at select hotels. cart or taxi. These fees are shown in the
Air ticket offices in Nyaung U and Old following table.
Bagan sell domestic fares only.
Destination Trishaw Horse cart Taxi
BOAT TRIPS
Sunset chasing in Bagan isnt restricted to New Bagan K1500 K2000 K2500
the tops of temples. An interesting alterna- Nyaung U K1000 K1500 K2000
tive is a dusk boat trip on the Ayeyarwady. Old Bagan K500 K1000 K1500
The boat folk at the Old Bagan jetty tend to
cater their hour-long tours for package tour- Taxis meet arriving trains and flights in
ists, but anyone can arrange a ride (K4000 Nyaung U.
for one person, K7000 for two to four),
which leaves around 4.30pm. Cheaper are Bicycle
the boat guys just below the nearby Bupaya Bikes with baskets (and sometimes a bell)
Paya (Bupaya Shrine; p299), who take six or are widely available and can be a super way
seven people for K3000 or K4000 total. of getting around, despite the direct expo-
You can also arrange an interesting boat/ sure to sun and some dirt roads that slow
taxi sidetrip to mountaintop Tan Kyi, one of you up. Essentially all accommodation rents
four stupas that marked the original edges bicycles: in Nyaung U it costs about K500
of the city. The boat across the river is about per day; Old Bagan and New Bagan charge
K3500 return; taxis up the mountain and K2000 or K3000 per day.
back are about K7000. Traffic is usually light on all roads. Early-
See p310 for boat trips to temples north morning or late-afternoon rides along the
of Nyaung U. sealed BaganNyaung U Rd are particularly
pleasant. Its worth planning ahead a little,
TOURS as the bulk of the temples in the Central
Any accommodation option can arrange Plain (p302) are far from much shade or
a ticket for 45-minute sunrise or sunset lunch potential. The most convenient eat-
flights over Bagan with Balloons over Bagan ing options are in Old Bagan (p274).
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N N y a u n g U 269
Many visitors have a greatest-hits tem- Taxi

ples day on horse cart first, to get a sense of Hiring a shared taxi for the day in Nyaung U
orientation, then follow it up checking fur- costs US$18 to US$20. An Old Bagan hotel
ther-flung or lesser-known temples by bike. will charge about US$25. Hired taxis are also
convenient ways of making day trips to Mt
Horse Cart Popa (p278) and Salay (p280).
An understandably popular way of seeing
the ruins is from the shaded, padded bed Trishaw
of horse carts. Even if youre on a package Bagans 300 trishaws see little action out-
trip or especially so its a good idea side trips within Nyaung U or between the
to break away one day for the more inti- jetty and the hotels.
mate trip. Drivers speak some English (at
least), know where to find the keymaster NYAUNG U
BAGAN &
to locked sites and can point out temples e;='wI"
with few/no tourists around. (Some might Most independent travellers call Nyaung U
stop by a shop with hopes for commission; home while in Bagan. The biggest town in
its OK to say no thanks.) Two people can the area and home to the key air, train and
lounge in the back of the cart, four can sit bus links also has the most life after the
cross-legged. sun has fallen. About 5km northeast of Old
In Nyaung U a day with a horse cart Bagan, along the Ayeyarwady, Nyaung U has
and driver runs about K5000 to K6000. Its a hopping, relatively lively restaurant row,
about K2000 or K4000 more if taken from a colourful market, and the prototype of
Old Bagan or New Bagan. Finding one is many regional stupas, Shwezigon Paya.
not a problem: in 2004, there were 225 horse The main road, aka BaganNyaung U
carts around (a 30% increase since 2002). Rd, runs most of the way from the Nyaung
Supposedly about 60% to 80% of the intake U market to the small village of Wetkyi-in,
goes to a few businessfolk who rent out the 2km west towards Old Bagan. The strip of
carts. restaurants extends south of the main road,
from just east of the bus station.
Pick-Up Other than Shwezigon Paya, most of Ba-
A pick-up (K200) runs regularly from out- gans key temples are outside Nyaung U, but
side the Nyaung U market, ending near the there are interesting ones nearby (p309).
junction in New Bagan and passing Wetkyi-
in, Old Bagan and Myinkaba on the way. Information
Technically this could be used to jump from INTERNET ACCESS
one place to the next, then walk around the Internet Stand (per hr K1000; h8am-8pm) Tiny one-
temples, particularly in the Northern Plain computer stand across from the market.
(p300) or within the old walls in Old Bagan Memory Email & Phone Service (restaurant row; per
(p297). hr K3000; h8.30am-9.30pm) Makes overseas calls for
US$5 or US$6 per minute.
RMCG Computer Centre (per hr K2500; h7am-9pm)
BAGAN TELEPHONE CODES Burns digital camera shots onto CD for US$2.
Are a little crazy. The Bagan area has two
area codes: %061 and %02. You may see POST
some old numbers beginning with the bor- Post office (h9.30am-7pm) Sends postcards overseas
rowed Pakokku code (%062), which were for K30.
assigned in the rush for new telephone
numbers as more businesses opened sine TELEPHONE
2000. All old numbers that start with %062 Stands around town follow the same set
have been switched to %02. All local num- prices. Its US$5 per minute to call Europe
bers are five digits. To add to the fun, any or Australia, US$6 to call North America.
old numbers that previously began with 70
changed to 67, meaning the old number TOURIST INFORMATION
%062-70999 is now %02-67999. Ever Sky Information Service (%061-60146; res-
taurant row; h7am-9.30pm), on the restaurant
Nyaung U
270 B A G A N N y a u n g U www.lonelyplanet.com
0 1 km
NYAUNG U 0 0.5 miles

To Pakkoku;
A B C Mandalay D
Nyaung U
INFORMATION Ri ver Jetty
dy
Ever Sky Information Service........1 B2
yarwa
Internet Stand..............................2 B2 Aye 3
1 IWT Office...................................3 C1
Memory Email & Phone Service....4 B2 SLEEPING
Myanma Economic Bank Aung Mingalar Hotel...................8 A2
(Foreign Exchange).................5 C3

Eden Motel..................................9 C2
Police...........................................6 B2 Golden Village Inn...................(see 14)
29 To Thetkyamuni (1km);
Post Office...................................7 B2 10 B2
Inn Wa Ga..................................
Kondawgyi (1km)
RMCG Computer Centre...........(see 9) Large Golden Pot.......................11 B2
25 10 Nyaung U Lucky 7 Guest House..................12 B2
12
Market
13 27 May Kha Lar Guest House..........13 B2
17 2 New Heaven Hotel.....................14 B2
Aye Nyein 30 New Park Hotel..........................15 B2
Thayar Park 24
BAGAN &
Shwezigon 6 Pan Cherry Guest House............16 B2

16 9
Paya Shwe Na Di................................17 B2
Rd

2 Ahnawrahta Thante Hotel..............................18 C2
Sapada 18
Paya EATING
19 A Little Bit of Bagan...................19 B2
Zeigyo Rd 20 4 15 11
(Market) U Aroma 2.....................................20 B2
u ng 28 1 21 7 Aye Tha Har Vegetarian
ya 22 Restaurant..............................21 B2
-N 8 14
g an Myitzima (Middle) Restaurant....22 B2
Ba Nanda........................................23 A3
23 26
5 Pho Cho...................................(see 19)
To Golden
Express Hotel San Kabar Restaurant & Pub......24 B2
(750m) Winter Restaurant......................25 B2
Rd
a TRANSPORT
ht
ra
aung
3 aw Air Mandalay.............................26 A3
An Air Ticket Office.........................27 B2
Ch
To Airport (2km); Bus Station.................................28 B2

i-in
Train Station (4km); Buses to Old Bagan....................29 C1

Mt Popa (50km)
tky
Bagan Train Ticket Office...................(see 12)

To
We
Golf Course
Old Bagan (3.5km); Yangon Airways Office..............30 B2
New Bagan (8.5km)
Tetthe
strip, helps arrange cars and trips (suppos- May Kha Lar Guest House (%061-60306, 02-6706;
edly without commission) and offers other s/d US$6/10, with TV US$8/12; a) This well-kept,
basic information. It has a small bookstore three-storey guesthouse has bright, clean
with several books on Bagan. rooms with air-con, ceiling fan and screen
windows. Its quite pleasant. The guest-
Golf & Swimming house is run by the attentive Ms Cho, who
The well-watered Bagan Golf Course (%061- will draw up Bagan maps (K500) to high-
60303; greens fee US$30, club rental US$10), just south light temples most visitors miss. Rooms
of town, has about a half-dozen pagodas on with TV have wooden floors (though the
its 18 holes. Theres also a swimming pool. sound may carry through the panelled walls
to your neighbour). The excellent Western
Sleeping or Bamar-style breakfast is served upstairs.
Guesthouses on the main road are the sim- Eden Motel (%02-67078; s US$4-10, d US$10-15;
plest, but usually come with air-con. Off the a) South of the market on the main road,
street, near the restaurant row southeast this motel has 18 great-value rooms. Rooms
of the centre, are quieter ones that have are cheaper and a bit more inviting, hon-
porches. Some of the best budget deals are estly in the older complex; theyre small
not appreciably less comfy than some mid- and get little light, but the bamboo wall,
range beds, here or in New Bagan. wooden floors and cranking AC make
up for it. The little single up top is just
BUDGET US$4. Across the street, the newer complex
Main Road has new tiled floors, more space, bathtubs
All the following come with free breakfast, and TV.
can arrange bicycle rental for about K500 Inn Wa Ga (%02-67125; s/d US$3/6; a) A stones
per day, and most drop their prices a dollar throw from the market, the Wa Ga offers
or three off season. simple fan-cooled rooms and less light on
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N N y a u n g U 271
the main floor, and air-con and huge win- refrigerator, bathtub, wooden floor and
dows in the rooms upstairs. deckchairs on the small porch. Staff mem-
Shwe Na Di (%061-60409; r per person US$3; a) bers are very welcoming, plus theres a
Run by a local English teacher (the school bakery and restaurant on site. Breakfast is
is just behind), this formerly unlicensed sometimes served on the lawn. Best mid-
guesthouse offers basic rooms with new range comfort in Nyaung U.
air-con units and cold-water bathroom. Aung Mingalar Hotel (%061-60171; s/d without
Pann Cherry Guest House (% 061-60075; s/d TV US$10/15, with TV from US$15/20; a) On the
US$4/8, with shared bathroom US$3/6) Basic rooms main road, 300m west of the bus station,
come with a bed, fan, screen window and this laid-back complex faces the Shwezigon
four walls but its clean and cheap. Paya (kinda) and has three types of bunga-
Lucky 7 Guest House (%061-60474; r per person low-style rooms, all with patios. Its comfy
US$3) It has fan-cooled rooms. and most guests enjoy it, though the con-
BAGAN &
Large Golden Pot (Ahnawrahta Rd; s/d with fan ditions are not appreciably better than the
US$4/8, with air-con US$5/10; a) A bit low qual- budget deals around restaurant row. Rooms
ity concrete floor bathroom, iffy hot with TV have wood floors.
water, scuffed-up walls but the Pot faces Golden Express Hotel (%02-67101; s) This
the wee Sapada Paya and is away from the is a good midrange option, a couple of
main crawl. At research time the Pot was kilometres west of town. It has four price
planning to expand new rooms may be ranges. The top two tiers (doubles US$24
decked out better. Its super name comes and US$30) are in nicer new wings; the
from a consultation with a monk, who said most expensive is nominally nicer (tub in-
It should be named Golden Potwait a stead of shower). All rooms have hot water
tick, make that a large one. not to mention access to the lovely pool
(US$3 for nonguests). There are a couple
Near the Restaurant Row of practically private pagodas nearby, for
These excellent budget choices give you (for sunsets that few outsiders witness.
an extra dollar or so) more peace than the
main-road options plus a patio facing the Eating
leafy back lanes. There are two kinds of food in Nyaung U:
New Park Hotel (%061-60322; 4 Thiripyitsaya; pizza and nonpizza. The former, starting at
s US$6-7, d US$10-12; a) The higher-priced rooms the San Kabar, has prompted an outpouring
in this two-complex, 20-room hotel on a of (often good) copycats in essentially any
quiet sideline have teak floors rather than noodle shack in town. On restaurant row
carpet and are a bit newer. All rooms have inviting thatch restaurants with candlelit
front porches. tables serve a grab-bag of cuisines.
Golden Village Inn (%02-67088; s US$6-12, d Aroma 2 (restaurant row; dishes K1500-3500; h11am-
US$8-15; a) The Village is another shady 9pm or 10pm) Aroma 1 is in Inle Lake, and No
spot with flower vines decorating room pa- 2 is about as good as food gets in Bagan,
tios. The newer, higher-priced rooms come for Indian or otherwise. Lots of fresh
with fridge and satellite TV. Rates drop by curries fish, mutton, veggie, chicken
US$2 or US$3 off season. come with dollops of condiments plopped
New Heaven Hotel (%02-67088; s/d US$5/8; a) on banana-leaf plates. A couple of the best
Behind the Golden Village, and under the dishes, says the enthusiastic manager, are
same ownership, the rooms offered here are ones that are ordered a day ahead, like the
simpler. boneless chicken breast.
Pho Cho (restaurant row; dishes from K1000; h8am-
MIDRANGE 9pm) Though it cooks up Chinese, Indian
Thante Hotel (%02-67317, in Yangon %01-664 424; and other dishes, Pho Cho is best at Thai-
[email protected]; Main Rd; s/d US$30/35; style dishes. Its spicy Thai sauce that ac-
as) South of the market, just off the companies several dishes may not be 100%
main road, the Thante offers roomy bun- authentic, but its damn good. The vegeta-
galows on shady grounds with a pleasant ble salad is a particularly good deal, coming
swimming pool (US$3 for nonguests). hot and on a platter. Most dishes are under
Rooms come with satellite TV, twin beds, K2000; prawns in Thai style are K4000.
272 B A G A N N y a u n g U www.lonelyplanet.com
Nanda (%02-67039; Main Rd; set meals K3500; for all but government-run MA. The MA
h9am-10pm) Best at dinner, this higher-end office is in Old Bagan.
restaurant (just west of town) serves fine
Burmese meals in an open-air setting. Ta- BOAT
bles are surrounded by floodlit (but fake) Boats to/from Mandalay go from Nyaung U
ruins and two marionette stages for the and Old Bagan, often depending on water
nightly shows. The set meal is the best deal, levels. The Nyaung U jetty is about 1km north-
including two meat dishes, soup, salad, a side east of the Nyaung U market. The IWT office,
dish, fruit and coffee; its K5000 if you go about 300m inland on the main road, sells
for prawns. Veggie dishes off the menu cost tickets for Mandalay, Magwe and Pyay.
K800 to K1000. Rates include 10% service From the jetty, the Shwe Kein Nayi Ex-
charge. press boat leaves at 5.30am for Mandalay

San Kabar Restaurant & Pub (Main Rd; pizza (US$16, 12 hours) on Tuesday, Wednesday,
BAGAN &
K2400-3600, pasta K1600-3600; h7am-10pm) Famous Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Some ferries
as the birthplace of Bagan pizza, the San leave for Mandalay from the jetty in Old
Kabars streetside candlelit courtyard fills Bagan (p275). Ask your hotel for the latest
nightly with travellers seeking tomato sauce times and jetty locations, which can change
and thin-crusted pies. Its quite good. At last depending on the rivers water level.
pass, the wine a too-sweet French variety You can also take the slow boat to Man-
couldnt compete with the food. dalay (US$10, two nights) on Wednesday
Winter Restaurant (Main Rd; pizza from K1500; pasta and Sunday at 5.30pm. It stays overnight in
K2000; h7am-10pm) Back from the main strip, Pakokku. The slow boat heading downriver
the Winter rallies for best pizza slice in its leaves at 7am on the same days, stopping in
open-air setting. Magwe (US$9, one night) and Pyay (US$9,
A Little Bit of Bagan (restaurant row; pizzas K1700- two nights).
K3000, Chinese dishes from K600, veggie dishes from Most visitors prefer taking the boat to
K400; h7am-10pm) Just off the main road, this Bagan from Mandalay (p243), which takes
thatch-roofed restaurant covers it all Chi- less time.
nese, Shan, Burmese, Thai, burgers, Indian Its possible to take Mandalay-bound boats
and Italian. Pizzas are quite thin, but pretty and exit at Pakokku (p280) for about K8000,
good. The full Indian dinner (with soup, but its cheaper on the local ferries, which
salad and dessert) is K3500. leave for Pakokku (K1000, 2 hours) five
times daily, from 6am to 3pm or so. Its also
Shopping possible to hire a long boat to Pakokku for
The main market, near the roundabout at about K10,000 or more. Its a fun trip. From
the east end of the Main Rd, has many trav- Pakokku, there are direct buses to Monywa.
eller-oriented doodahs (woodcarvings, T-
shirts, antique pieces) on its northern end. BUS
The main bus station serving Bagan is on
Getting There & Away the main road in Nyaung U. At research
See Mt Popa (p278) and Salay (p280) for time, daily service included the following
transport details on these popular day trips (times will likely change):
from Bagan.
Destin. Price Duration Frequency Type
AIR
The Nyaung U Airport is a few kilometres Magwe K2500 4-5hr 7am minibus
southeast of the market. Flight schedules Mandalay K4000 8hr 7am & 9am local (no
vary. Presently Air Mandalay, Bagan Air, air-con)
Myanma Airways (MA) and Yangon Airways Meiktila K4000 - 7am & 9am local
connect Bagan daily with Mandalay (US$45), Taunggyi K6000 10-12hr 5am local
Heho (US$65) and Yangon (US$93). Flights Yangon K6500 14-15hr 3pm air-con (Ye Thu
to Thandwe (US$121) run daily October to Aung Express)
April, though often stop in Yangon.
On the main road, a ticket office (%02-67406, A local bus also connects Nyaung U with
09-204 2001; h9am-5pm) sells domestic tickets Yangon for K2500. You may be able to
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N O l d B a g a n 273
catch an air-conditioned bus in Meiktila OLD BAGAN

going between Yangon and Mandalay also. pugDmuieh;='"
During peak season, its important to Although Old Bagan is no longer inhabited
book bus tickets for Mandalay, Taunggyi (except by hotel and government employ-
(for Inle Lake) and Yangon a couple of days ees), it represents the core of the Bagan
in advance. Archaeological Zone and contains several
of the main temple sites, city walls and a
PICK-UP museum. Its right on a bend of the Ayeyar-
Pick-ups to Mt Popa and Salay, as well as wady River some time during your stay,
Chauk (K1000, two hours) and Kyaukpa- wander down to the waterfront and watch
daung (K1000, one hour) leave from the bus the coming and going of the river trade.
station. You can take a boat across the river to the
Pick-ups between Nyaung U, Old Bagan village on the other side (see p268).
BAGAN &
and New Bagan run along the main street,
starting from the roundabout outside the Archaeological Museum
Nyaung U market. Housed in an absurd, out-of-place, 19th-
See New Bagan (p277) for info on pick- century-style temple, the museum (admission
ups to Taunggyi (Inle Lake). US$3; h 9am-4.30pm) was built in 1996 by
the same people who redid the Mandalay
TAXI Palace. It features many fine pieces from
Many travellers hire share taxis often Bagan (reclining Buddhas, original images,
quite old cars, some with open backs, most inscripted stones and mural recreations)
without air-con to destinations around and an unexpected room of modern-art
the country. Itll save time and bruises. Ask renderings of the temples. Not many visi-
at Ever Sky (p269) or at your hotel. tors go, but the collection is often good
Sample taxi fares: (though it could benefit from being ordered
chronologically).
Destination Fare (US$)
Sleeping
Inle Lake US$75-80 Old Bagan accommodation caters to a up-
Mandalay US$50-60 market crowd and often fills months in ad-
Meiktila US$25 vance of peak season. From any of these
Myingyan US$25 hotels, youll be fairly close the eager can
Pyay US$80 walk it to some of Bagans finest temples.
Yangon US$150 All hotels here have pools, most of which
nonguests can pay to use for the day. All
Another option is to take a van with air- also have restaurants and bars some with
con, which costs 15% or so more. nice river views. Youll get teak furnishings,
satellite TV and minibar in your room;
TRAIN most rooms have bathtubs (not shower) in
The Bagan train station is about 4km south- the private bathroom.
east of Nyaung U. A ticket office on the main Prices listed dont include the 10% serv-
road can help with changing times and ice charge and 10% government tax. From
tickets. Presently, two morning trains a day April to September, expect a drop of up to
leave for Mandalay (US$4/9 ordinary/1st 50%. Rates often rise US$10 or US$20 from
class, 10 hours), a lone evening train heads Christmas to the first week of January.
to Yangon (US$11/31, 20 hours) and an- Bagan Hotel River View (%061-60032; www
other morning train to Pyinmana (US$5/17, .myanmars.net/baganhotel; s/d US$70/80, ste from US$100;
12 hours). as) Probably the most appealing hotel
of the Old Bagan options, set right behind
Getting Around the Gawdawpalin Temple, this hotel fea-
Bicycles are cheaper to rent here than in New tures one-storey teak bungalows set around
Bagan or Old Bagan. Its about K500 per a curvy pool. Guests and nonguests can
day. See p268 for more on getting around enjoy the riverside restaurant, bar, salon and
the Bagan site. night bazaar shopping area. A big breakfast
Old Bagan
274 B A G A N O l d B a g a n www.lonelyplanet.com
0 1 km
OLD BAGAN 0 0.5 miles

A To Pakokku; B C D
Mandalay
Rd Nyaung U
gU
aun
Ny
1 Aye Yar ga
n-
Hotel Ba
Old Bagan Taungbi SLEEPING
Jetty
r Bagan Hotel River View...............3 A2
ve
Ri 9
Bagan Thande Hotel....................4 A2
10
a dy Old Bagan Rd Hotel @ Tharabar Gate.................5 B2
a rw rahta Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel............ 6 A2
ey 7
aw
Ay 5 An
8 2
EATING
11
Tharaba
Golden Myanmar.........................7 B1
Gateway Sarabha II..................................(see 5)
3
Vegetarian Restaurant..................8 B2
BAGAN &
1 SHOPPING
2 4
INFORMATION
Manu Kan
Shwe War Thein Handicrafts Shop..9 B1
Balloons Over Bagan..................(see 3)
6 TRANSPORT
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Air Mandalay.............................(see 8)
Archaeological Museum...............1 A2 Boats..........................................10 A1
To Myinkaba (1km); New Palace Site............................2 B2 Myanma Airways.......................11 B2
New Bagan (3km)
comes with the price. Its 108 rooms are often Avoid the riverside Aye Yar Hotel as it is
full. Theres a younger clientele here than at government-run.
some of its neighbours.
Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel (%02-67289; www Eating
.bagan-thiripyitsaya-sakura-hotel.com; r US$90-120, ste from With few or no eating options amid the
US$250; as) Spread out on a wide-open temples, Old Bagans restaurants are a logi-
bank with big views of the Ayeyarwady, this cal central point for lunch.
hotel was government-run until 1995, when Sarabha II (dishes K1200-6000; h11am-10pm) Of
it became a Japanese-run joint-venture. Its the two Sarabhas back-to-back, between the
about 500m south of the Old Bagan walls. gate and the Hotel @ Tharabar Gate, we like
Rates dont include breakfast (US$8 extra), the one behind best, away from the road.
but the all-day restaurant is excellent. The The quiet area, under a big airy thatch roof,
spa offers various scrubs, rubs and wraps; an is good for Chinese, Burmese, Thai, some
hour-long foot massage is US$18. The pool Western dishes and a few veggie options for
is big, with a nice bar nearby. K1200 to K1500. Chicken Kiev costs K4000,
Bagan Thande Hotel (%061-60025; www.bagan spaghetti K2000. The foods good, but best
thande.com; s US$24-54, d US$28-60; as) Open is the cold towels handed out to sponge the
since 1922, this riverside hotel is a longstand- dust off your face.
ing Bagan accommodation and certainly a Golden Myanmar (buffet K1500; h10am-10pm)
big fixture on the package-trip circuit. It has Keep-it-real seekers (and lots of horse-cart
three types of rooms, plus US$200 suites. drivers) prefer this roadside eatery with
The higher-priced duplex rooms have river shaded seats on a brick floor. Buffet (your
views. Some guests have been disappointed pick of chicken, pork, fish or mutton curry)
with the older cheap rooms, though they comes with usual tableful of condiments,
also come with satellite TV, air-con and fruit dessert and a tasty fried bean stick.
minibar. Theres a good pool (nonguests can About 250m west of the gate (at the turn-
use it for US$3). off for Bupaya), youll see some simple res-
Hotel @ Tharabar Gate (%061-60037, in Yangon taurants, including Vegetarian Restaurant
%01-211 966; www.tharabargate.com; r from US$100; and a Chinese restaurant behind.
pais) Away from the river (and The restaurants at the hotels in Old Bagan
500m north of Ananda Temple), this newer add a little comfort (and kyat) to your meal.
hotel has 86 antique-filled rooms around a The Bagan Hotel and Thiripyitsaya Sakura
big, (fake) elephant-guarded pool. The hotel Hotel are particularly good; the latter offer-
is quite pleasant (despite that tacky @ in ing the biggest view of the river (try it for
its name). sunset gin-and-tonic).
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N M y i n k a b a 275
Shopping road. Most keep long hours (from 7am to

Just east of Tharabar Gate (and well signed 9pm) during peak season. Cheap-quality
off the BaganNyaung U Rd), Shwe War Thein stuff is generally what youll be offered by
Handicrafts Shop (%061-67032; dsavariau@mptmail hawkers at the Manuha Paya (and around
.net.mm; h7am-9pm in peak season) is a treasure Bagan actually).
trove of Myanmar trinkets is one of the re- Art Gallery of Bagan (%061-60307) It has a
gions best souvenir shops. The collection nice-sized showroom, with top-tier 18-
includes antique and new puppets, wood layer offerings in the air-conditioned room
carvings, chess sets, lacquerware and bronze out the back. The workshop next door stays
pieces. Theres essentially no pressure to busy until 5pm or so.
buy, and staff dig the stuff too (at the last Golden Cuckoo (%02-67028) Just behind the
visit, one manager pulled an old puppet off Manuha Paya, this family-run workshop
the shelves to keep because she liked it too spans four generations. Seven-layer plates,
BAGAN &
much). cups, bowls and trays are up front; the more
Lacquerware selections are bigger in detailed 14-layer stuff is in the air-conditioned
Myinkaba (below) and New Bagan (p277). room in the back, where you can find some
more unique spins on traditional than at
Getting There & Away most workshops.
Depending on water levels, boats from
Mandalay arrive in Old Bagan, near the Aye Getting There & Around
Yar Hotel; see p272 for more on boats leav- Pick-ups running between New Bagan and
ing Nyaung U, the major gateway for buses, Old Bagan (and Nyaung U) stop here. You
trains and planes out of Bagan. can rent bikes at Phyo Guest House for
You can buy plane tickets from the Air K1500 per day.
Mandalay office (%02-67021) and Myanma Air-
ways office; both keep irregular hours on the NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT )
main road. pugDmuioc''
In 1990 the government relocated the locals
MYINKABA from Old Bagan here, and give them
m='"kp: credit the locals have done their best in
This village, about 1km south of Old Bagan making the most of their new home. Lo-
and 2km north of New Bagan, is famed for cated 3km south of Old Bagan, New Bagan
its family-run lacquerware shops and some has a number of new, more midrange guest-
choice Early Baganperiod pahto (tem- houses and hotels, and some nice river-spot
ples) and stupas (p304). King Manuha, the restaurants.
respected Captive King, built the poetic
Manuha Paya while held here in the 11th- Information
century. The telephone office is on the main street.
Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT; %061-60277, 02-
Sleeping & Eating 67418; h8.30am-4.30pm), the government-run
Phyo Guest House (%061-60307; s/d US$10/15; a) tourist office (the only one in the Bagan
Next to busy-by-day Art Gallery of Bagan, area), is just north of town. It can help
this guesthouse has rather basic, overpriced organise excursions (and getting permis-
rooms with clean but worn wood floors and sion) to visit Chin State (p328). At the time
wall panelling, hot showers and a desk. No of research (before negotiations), the of-
TV or refrigerator. Its footsteps from the fice charged US$150 per day per person
lovely Gubyaukgyi temple, though. on a three-day, two-night trip to visit Chin
There are a few eating stalls across from State villages and climb Mt Victoria, a bird-
Manuha Paya, serving mostly Chinese watching haven.
dishes for around K1000.
Sleeping
Shopping New Bagan is best for its midrange options,
If youre getting serious about lacquerware, usually generator-run motels with a bit
Myinkabas yer pal. More than a handful more comfort than the cheapies in Nyaung
of workshops are signed along the main U. All prices here include breakfast.
Bagan Myothit (New Bagan)
276 B A G A N N e w B a g a n ( B a g a n M y o t h i t ) www.lonelyplanet.com
0 500 m
NEW BAGAN (BAGAN MYOTHIT) 0 0.3 miles
A B C D
INFORMATION Bagan Central Hotel.....................5 B3 EATING

Myanmar Travel & Tours (MTT)...1 B2 Kaytumadi Dynasty Hotel............6 D3 Green Elephant/River View
Telephone Office.........................2 B3 Kumudara Hotel...........................7 C2 Bagan Restaurant..................14 A3
1 Kyaw Hotel..................................8 B2 Silver House Restaurant..............15 B3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House.............9 B3 Sithu Restaurant........................16 A3
Eight-Faces Paya..........................3 C3 NK Betelnut Hotel......................10 C3 Sunset Garden Riverside
Thazin Garden Hotel..................11 C3 Restaurant.............................17 A2
SLEEPING Thiri Marlar Hotel.......................12 B2
Bagan Beauty Hotel......................4 B3 Thiri Sandar Guest House...........13 B3 SHOPPING
Moe Moe..................................18 C2
To Myinkaba (2km); 7 U Ba Nyein.................................19 C3
Old Bagan (3.5km);

Nyaung U (8.5km) School TRANSPORT
River
Urban Health 1
Centre Airline Office..............................20 B3
BAGAN &
12 Airline Office..............................21 B2
Police
17 Bicycle Rental...........................(see 15)
rwady
2 Tiger Head Express

Pick-Ups to Taunggyi............22 B2
Rd
Ayeya
auk
n-Ch
To Airport
22 (7.5km)
18
Baga
21
14 Morning
9 2 15 10 Market
16 3
Khaye St (Main Rd)
4 13
20
Myat La
5 19
Thiripyitsaya
y Rd
3 Village ee
k
Cr
in
11
os
Ye
BUDGET Thiri Marlar Hotel (% 02-67370; thirimarlar@

Bagan Beauty Hotel (%061-60351; Main Rd; s/d mptmail.net.mm; s/d US$20/25; a) This excellent-
US$3/6; a) This friendly blockhouse chea- value hotel, a couple of blocks from the road
pie is clean but no diva. Its 12 simple rooms to Old Bagan, has 21 often-filled rooms set
have hot shower, twin beds and wrinkled around teak walkways facing a leafy court-
vinyl floors. yard with a bamboo coffeehouse. Up top is
Kyi Kyi Mya Guest House (%02-67037; Main Rd; a wide-open bar, and further up, near the
s/d US$6/12; a) Next to the Bagan Beauty, crenulated rooftop, is a breakfast deck over-
Kyi Kyi Mya rents its 10 basic rooms with looking Bagans sprawl. Rooms have twin or
air-con to foreigners (and discourages its double beds and come with showers with
fan-cooled rooms). Its cute enough from curtain and minibar. The staff isnt always
the outside, and the welcoming manage- versed in English, but they try hard.
ment bursts with good lacquerware tips, Kumudara Hotel (% 02-67080; www.kumudara
but its probably not worth the extra kyat -bagan.com; s/d US$30/36; a) At the quiet north-
compared with the Beauty. eastern edge of town, the Kumudara has 50
Thiri Sandar Guest House (%061-60372; Main Rd; pleasant motel-style rooms with wood floors,
s/d US$6/12; a) Facing the centre zedi (stupa), high ceilings and best of all back porches,
this two-storey guesthouse has clean, car- some of which face the Bagan plain.
peted rooms and hot shower, with breakfast Bagan Central Hotel (%02-67141; Main Rd; s
served on a front terrace. Its a bit nicer than US$10 & 15, US$15 & 20; a) Good-value rooms
the other budget options. If a room is smoky, in stone-covered units with hot water, ar-
ask for another. Little English is spoken. moire, wood floors (keep shoes outside!)
and twin beds, all set around a courtyard
MIDRANGE with tables for open-air breakfast. Cheaper
Expect hot water and satellite TV at each rooms are the best deals if you can deal
of the following. without tub or TV.
www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B A G A N M t P o p a 277
NK Betelnut Hotel (%061-60326; Main Rd; s/d/tr areas, with evening sitting on lawn between.
US$15/18/23; a) This cheapie midranger of- Theres no show, but you can overhear the
fers two dozen rooms decked in cute laven- Green Elephants.
der hues or bamboo trim. Some rooms have Sithu Restaurant (%02-67173; h11am-3pm &
windows on two sides, good for extra light. 6-11pm) Another riverside eatery with a night
Rooms have wood floors and are comfy de- show, Sithu is slightly less stylish than the
spite a nick or two. Its better value for a other two.
double or triple. On the main road in town, the simple
Kyaw Hotel (%02-67377; Nwe Ni St; s/d US$15/20; Silver House Restaurant cooks up fish and
a) Another midrange option nearby, with prawns for about the same price, but fried
10 rooms. rice (not on the menu; ask) is only K800.
There is also a cluster of hotels on the south-
east edge of town; one is the Kaytumadi Dynasty Shopping
BAGAN &
Hotel (%02-67123; www.kaytumadi.com; s/d US$25/35; Nearby Myinkaba village has more lacquer-
a), with 34 rooms in cabin-duplexes, all cov- ware factories and shops, but New Bagan
ered with toddy palm logs. The grounds are has two excellent options too.
nice (with well-maintained creek and horse- Moe Moe (%062-70031; Main Rd; h9am-9pm)
cart-wheel bridge), but rooms are a bit worn Large showroom with mix of traditional
for the price. and modern lacquerware; the factory is in
full swing during the day.
TOP END U Ba Nyein (%02-67050; Main Rd; h9am-9pm)
Thazin Garden Hotel (%061-60052; www.thazigarden Another showroom, across from the centre
hotel.com; s US$45-55, d US$55-65; as) Several zedi.
notches in comfort and style above the
other midrange options, this hotel is nicely Getting There & Around
lost in New Bagans southern side. It has See Nyaung U (p272) for most transport
two complexes: one is a leafy British colo- options to/from the region. Tiger Head Ex-
nial bungalow style; the other is a pagoda- press Co sends daily pick-ups to Taunggyi
brick-style two-storey complex facing the (K1000, 10 hours) at 3am. There are airline
pool and the hotels personal pagoda. All offices on Main Rd a block north.
rooms have dark-wood floors and some Bicycle rental is K1500 per day at budget
artful touches (such as hanging paper um- hotels or at the stand next to Silver House
brellas). Dinners served in high season on Restaurant, or about K3000 at others. See
the lawn around the pagoda. Nonguests can p268 for more on getting around the Bagan
swim for US$5. site.
Eating
New Bagans restaurants serve most meals
at lunch, particularly the handful of river-
AROUND BAGAN
side restaurants that draw some tour groups. MT POPA
At night most host 7pm marionette/music pup:"et;='
shows and set tables on the lawn overlook- %02
ing the Ayeyarwady River not a bad thing If you look towards the range of hills that
to do at all. Fish and prawns culled from the rise, shimmering in the heat, behind Bagan,
river are highly plugged (and priced). you can often see (barely) a solitary peak
The following three places have fish dishes standing apart from the ranges west end.
for K2000 to K4000, prawns for K4000 to Rising to 737m from the flat, surrounding
K6000 and vegetables from K1000 to K2000. Myingyan Plain, and topped with a superb
Green Elephant/River View Bagan Restaurant pagoda, Mt Popa (Popa Daung Kalat in
(%02-67099; h11am-4pm & 6-10pm) This place Burmese) is said to be the core of an extinct
has several bamboo-thatch covered areas volcano last active 250,000 years ago. Its a
around a central lawn, and theres a nightly popular and worthwhile half-day trip from
music and puppet show. Bagan (but you probably should consider
Sunset Garden Riverside Restaurant (%061- it only if you have at least two full days to
60404; h11am-3pm & 6-11pm) It has two covered offer to Bagan).
278 A R O U N D B A G A N M t P o p a www.lonelyplanet.com
Sometimes described as the Mt Olympus brothers who were born to a marriage be-
of Myanmar, Mt Popa is the most impor- tween Mae Wunna and an Indian Muslim
tant nat worship centre in the country. The in Anawrahtas employ. The two sons were
tiger-guarded Mahagiri shrine, at the foot of murdered at Taungbyone, where Anaw-
the mountain just across from the steps rahta built a shrine in their honour. Once
guarded by elephant statues (loads of crit- a year, the Taungbyone nat are believed to
ters around here) contains a display of travel a spirit circuit that includes Mt Popa,
mannequinlike figures representing the 37 Taungbyone (about 22km north of Manda-
nat and is a major pilgrimage destination. lay) and China.
Burmese superstition says you shouldnt
wear red or black on the mountain, nor Sleeping & Eating
should you curse, say bad things about other Popa Mountain Resort (% 02-69168, in Yangon
people or bring along any meat (especially %01-202 071; www.woodlandgroups.com; superior s/d
BAGAN &
pork) any of these actions could offend US$50/60, deluxe r from US$120; as) On the
the residing nat who might then retaliate mountain overlooking Mt Popa, this spec-
with a spate of ill fortune. And no-one likes tacular resort (a Singaporean joint venture)
a mad nat. teams with sandalwood forest and views.
Atop the impressive rocky crag clings a The higher-priced deluxe bungalows,
picturesque complex of monasteries, stu- perched on stilts, face Mt Popa making it
pas and shrines that you can climb to via a one of the better splurge options in central
winding, covered walkway, complete with Myanmar. The rates can often be negotiated.
some misbehaving monkeys. The 25- The pool is nice (nonguests can swim here
minute climb is steep and stiff, but it gets for US$2), and there are two restaurants and
cooler as you get higher. Views are fantastic. a bar. Its possible to climb Ma Gyi Taung
Some of the frequent pilgrims here include (the mountain just behind) in four hours.
nonordained, slow-walking hermit monks Hotel transport to Mt Popa from here is
called yeti, who wear tall, peaked hats. US$5.
If you come by share taxi, ask the driver Min Min Soe Guest House (%02-67637; r US$15)
to point out bits of petrified forest, which are In Popa village, a couple of kilometres down
strewn along either side of the road. from the mountain, are a couple of cheap
Also present is much volcanic ash, which sleeping places. Best is this seven-room job,
makes the surrounding plains fertile. The with fan-cooled rooms, shiny tile floors,
heights capture the moisture of passing screen windows and also cold-water private
clouds, causing rain to drop on the plateau showers.
and produce a profusion of trees, flowering There are a few restaurants at the base of
plants and herbs. In fact, the word Popa is Mt Popa and in Popa village.
derived from the Sanskrit word for flower.
Festivals & Events Most travellers visit Mt Popa in half a day
Mt Popa hosts two huge nat pwe (spirit festi- by share taxi or by organised tour from their
vals) yearly, one beginning on the full moon hotel. In Nyaung U, guesthouses could get
of Nayon (May/June) and another on the full you a slot in a share taxi (without guide)
moon of Nadaw (November/December). for US$5 per person. Hiring a whole taxi is
Before King Anawrahtas time, thousands US$15 or US$20. Hotels in Old Bagan and
of animals were sacrificed to the nat during New Bagan charge more; eg the Thiripy-
these festivals, but this practice has been itsaya Sakura Hotel in Old Bagan charges
prohibited since the Bagan era. Spirit pos- US$100 for a full-day guided trip for up to
session and overall drunken ecstasy are still six persons.
part of the celebration, however. Mt Popa Adventure Tours (p268) offers
There are several other minor festivals, a day trip, including area sights.
including ones held on the full moons of At research time, a direct pick-up left
Wagaung (July/August) and Tagu (March/ Nyaung Us bus station at 8am, waited two
April), which celebrate the departure and hours at Popa, then returned (K2500 return,
return of the famous Taungbyone nat Min one hour each way). Otherwise you can
Gyi and Min Lay each year. These nat are take an hourly pick-up from Nyaung U to
www.lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D B A G A N S a l a y 279
Kyaukpadaung (K1000, one hour) and then BAGAN-ERA MONUMENTS

another to Mt Popa (K500, 45 minutes). This Little of Salays history is known outside
would take up a full day. a small circle of Myanmar archaeologists
working with limited funds. So details on
SALAY the 103 ruins most of them known only
cel by number rather than name are sketchy.
This village, 36km south of Bagan, devel- It is said that most of the monuments in
oped in the late 12th and 13th centuries as Salay werent royally sponsored but were
the expanding influence of Bagan moved built by the lower nobility or commoners
southward along the nearby Ayeyarwady thus there are no structures on the grand
River. Today the village of 7000 residents scale of Bagans biggest ones.
is much more of an active religious cen- In the pagoda-filled area across from the
tre than Bagan, with some 50 monasteries Youqson Kyaung, you can see Payathonzu
BAGAN &
(thats one per 140 locals if youre count- (see p308; Temples Nos 18, 19, 20), about
ing). Day-trippers take in working 19th- 100m east, which is a small trio of brick
century wooden monasteries, some select shrines with sikhara (Indian-style corncob-
Bagan-era shrines and more untouched like temple finial) and some faded murals
British colonial buildings than youll find inside. The westernmost one (to the left if
in much of Myanmar. It can be paired with you come from the museum) has the most
Mt Popa on a full-day trip, though the two visible murals and also a narrow set of stairs
are in different directions from Bagan. leading to a small terrace. Legend has it that
In the late 1960s, Salay got some atten- it was constructed by three sisters. If its
tion from a Japanese company that built a locked, ask at Youqson Kyaung.
huge fertiliser plant (and a golf course for More interesting is the modern makeover
visiting execs). Myanmar has run it solo of the Bagan-era Shinpinsarkyo Paya (Temple No
for a couple of decades. In 2004 a massive 88; %063-40357), about 6km southwest of town
explosion killed two workers. via a dodgy road. The road passes two bridges
(one was washed out by rains at last visit, but
Sights passable by makeshift road over dry creek
YOUQSON KYAUNG bed). Inside the glass and tile-filled pagoda,
rup'cuekY;='" youll find an original 13th-century wood
Designed as a copy of the Crown Prince Lokanat (Mahayana Bodhisattva guardian
House in Mandalay, and built from 1882 spirit). The nearby northern entrance pas-
to 1892, the huge wooden monastery (admission sageway features interesting 19th-century
US$3; h9am-4.30pm) is the best place to start a 3-D murals (some torture to see). Original
visit in Salay. Along two of its exterior sides woodcarvings abound, some of which are
are detailed original carvings displaying painted afresh in original design.
19th-century court life, and scenes from the Another kilometre south (most taxis wont
Jataka (stories of the Buddhas past lives) drive it, but its an easy 15-minute walk) is
and Ramayana (one of Indias best-known Temple No 99, an unassuming 13th-century
legends); sadly another sides pieces were shrine that features 578 painted Jataka scenes
looted in the 1980s. Inside, past the naga inside. Its noted by some, for the last 16
(dragon serpent) steps, in the 23m-long hall, paintings on the left as you enter; these rep-
are more original details as part of a small resent the 16 Dreams of King Kosala. Very
museum. The 17th- to 19th-century pieces few foreigners have come here.
are behind glass cases, while the Bagan-era
woodcarvings (including a massive throne Other Sights
backdrop) stand in open view. One of the most interesting aspects of Salay
The monastery was renovated twice in is the faded colonial buildings around town,
the 1990s and now features a tin roof to many of which still feature the Royal Crown
protect the carvings. The Department of (look around the market area, about 200m
Archaeology runs the site; on-site staff west of the museum). Few buildings in My-
can point you to other nearby sites, in and anmar still sport the lion-guarded crown.
outside town. For general information, try In the complex across from the museum
%063-40221. (west of the Payathonzu), the Nan Paya (aka
280 A R O U N D B A G A N Pa k o k k u www.lonelyplanet.com
the Mann Paya) is a modern pagoda housing lazy pace and rather tropical feel can make
a 6m gold Buddha made of straw lacquer. for a very rewarding day. A bustling tobacco
As the story goes, the Buddha image was centre, the town is about 25km north of
originally located near Monywa, and it was Bagan on the Ayeyarwady.
washed downstream during an 1888 mon-
soon all the way to Salay! Ask for a peek Sights
inside from the latched door out the back. In town theres little in the way of attractions.
Just north of the Payathonzu, the monas- About 27km northeast, on the way to Mon-
tery and meditation centre of Sasanayaunggyi ywa, are the remains of Pakhangyi, a 19th-
Kyaung (a bit of a stop-off point for day- century wooden monastery. Its supposedly
trippers) features a lovely 19th-century glass US$3 to visit, but the caretaker tends to ask
armoire with Jataka-painted panels and 400- only for a K1000 donation. About 5km east
year-old scripture in Pali inside. The monks (via the road behind the big modern pa-
BAGAN &
are chatty and friendly, and will ask for a goda) is the destroyed frame of Pakhanngeh
donation for their onsite school. Kyaung, which was once the countrys larg-
Adventure-seekers could investigate 41 est wooden monastery, with 332 teak pillars.
more Bagan-era temples around Sarlai, 80km Many still stand, and the area near the fork
(50 miles) south of Salay by bad road. Youd of the Ayeyarwady and Kaladan Rivers
need to hire a 4WD jeep in Bagan. Its also makes for interesting exploration. You could
possible to reach by boat its worth asking take a local bus bound for Monywa and stop
at Youqson Kyaung before setting off. at Pakhangyi. A shared taxi here is about
US$20, a motorcycle taxi about US$10.
Sleeping & Eating If time is limited, you might get more out
Salay has no hotels or guesthouses for any- of Pakokku by seeing its market or just wan-
one and police apparently frown at for- dering its picturesquely decrepit side streets,
eigners staying in local monasteries. Nearby with old homes backed to the Ayeyarwady.
Chauk has no licensed guesthouses either.
Eating options are better in Chauk, but Festivals
you can find some noodles or rice at the One of the towns biggest pwe festivals, Thi-
Salay market. hoshin, is held during Nayon (May/June).
Getting There & Away Sleeping

Salay is 36km south of Bagan on an often- Mya Yatanar Inn (%21457; 75 Lanmataw St; r per person
flood-damaged road. You pass through the K3500) Pakokkus main accommodation op-
larger town of Chauk on the way. From tion is like no other in Myanmar. The manag-
Chauk, another road goes east to Kyauk- ers are an outgoing English-speaking couple:
padaung, with a turn-off for Magwe. a 70-something former boxing teacher and
A hired taxi for a four- or five-hour trip his Kachin wife. An old place run by old peo-
to Salay from Nyaung U runs from US$17 to ple, said one of them. The pair accidentally
US$25. Often trips include Mt Popa (extra). started the business when they invited in a
Theres also a morning pick-up from Nyaung couple of backpackers sleeping in the street in
U to Chauk (about K1000, two hours), where 1980. Based on the notebook postings scrawled
you can catch another (from roughly 11am by guests over the years, theyve provided
to 4pm) to Salay (about K500, one hour). more than a share of trip highlights. Their
Considering that neither town have licensed appealing two-storey home has some (very)
guesthouses, and that some sites in Salay are basic rooms with shared bathroom upstairs
spread out, this is not very feasible. electricity is mostly off here, as with all of Pa-
kokku. They can help you find good food or
PAKOKKU get a taxi deal, or show you to local pagodas
%062 or where tattooing is done. Its on the river, a
pxuk couple of blocks east of the market.
A stopping point of the MandalayBagan Tha Pye No Guest House (%21166; Myoma Rd; r
ferries, and terminus of bus routes from US$4-8; a) This is a basic backup. The higher-
Monywa to the north, Pakokku sees few priced room has private bathroom and air-
travellers for more than 10 minutes, but its con running on the iffy local current.
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY M a g w e 281
Getting There & Away southeast of the central market. Rooms are
You can travel by local bus to/from Monywa fan-cooled, mattresses are thin, and show-
(K600, 4 hours); four leave Monywa daily. ers are cold. The shared bathrooms plain
The bus station is 3km south of the centre. concrete floor deals, with mosquito net and
A handful of ferries go to Nyaung U a plastic chair are clean and save you from
(K1000, two to three hours) from a couple the rancid smells of some of the private-
of jetties a kilometre or so southeast of the bathroom options. The staff is nice, but
market; the first goes around 5am, the last sometimes get confused by questions like
around 2pm. You can also hire a private boat Where can I get a trishaw?
to make the trip for K10,000 to K15,000 Diamond Restaurant (dishes from K1000) A bit
the earlier in the day, the cheaper. northwest of the market, this is nothing
Another way to reach Pakokku is via special, but offers a menu in English for its
the MandalayBagan ferry from Mandalay Chinese food, which includes several veggie
BAGAN &
(p243) or Bagan (p272). options.
MYINGYAN Getting There & Around
m='"x Frequent buses and pick-ups leave from the
%066 street just east of the MyingyanMeiktila
Despite its Ayeyarwady River location 88km road, a couple of blocks south of the market,
north of Nyaung U (towards Mandalay by for Meiktila (K1000/3000 for a back/front
map), Myingyan sorta rhymes with en- seat, 2 hours). Passengers tend to take the
gine sees very few travellers, as major bus pick-ups. Some buses, however, continue
routes bypass the bumpier roads that come on to Mandalay. A lone daily pick-up goes
here. Some long-distance boats stop at the to Nyaung U (two hours) at 4.30am.
Ayeyarwady docks, just west of town, but The train station is a fine old building a
not the MandalayBagan express boats. couple of blocks east of the market. A couple
of daily trains connect Myingyan with Bagan
Sights (three hours), and Mandalay (6 hours).
If you make it to this sprawled-out town Trishaw is the main transport around
of 260,000, the two-storey central market is town. A trip to the two religious sites and
a good starting point. About 1.5km east, back to the hotel is about K1000.
accessed from the road just north of the
train station, is the Bodhi Dat Taw Taik (mean-
ing depository of Buddhas relics), where
(in the monastery just west) you can see
BAGAN TO PYAY
Buddha relics (teeth, hair, bone, even skin) There are two major routes that lead north
housed intriguingly in the former safe of from Yangon. The places described below
a British colonial bank. Monks will open are on the western route, which is part of
it for you. the YangonBagan Hwy, sometimes called
About 1.5km south of the market, via the low road. It follows along the eastern
the northsouth MandalayMeiktila Rd, is bank of the Ayeyarwady River.
the Soon Lu Kyaung, an important monastery
where you can see the remains of the well- MAGWE
known Soon Lu Sayadaw draped in monas- mek"
tic robes. He died in 1951, though his body %063
is (relatively) well preserved. An attendant Capital of the Magwe Division, this dusty,
said, He was a great man, very powerful. predominately Burmese, midsize town on
No chemicals on his body were used and the Ayeyarwady River (about 150km south
he still is strong. of Bagan) has some quirks. In 1988 it was
supposedly the countrys only city to sit
Sleeping & Eating out the prodemocracy marches, and still fa-
One Star Drive In Inn (%21389; Myo Pat St, 16th quar- vours a noticeable play-it-by-the-rules vibe.
ter; r per person K6000) The only licensed accom- It sees a rare tourist heading betwixt Pyay
modation in Myingyan is this odd group and Bagan, perhaps, as is evident by encir-
of bungalows on a side street about 1km cling curious staff at quiet restaurants.
Magwe
282 B A G A N T O PYAY M a g w e www.lonelyplanet.com
In 2002 the 2930m (8789ft) Ayeyarwady pagoda, which features two giant pythons
Bridge connected Magwe with its hilly vil- that get fed buffalo milk daily. The largest
lage neighbour of Minbu on the rivers west mound is named Thu Sei Ta, the second-
bank. largest Nanda, for the mythical Dragon
Kings daughter and son, respectively. On
Information the winding road north from Minbu are a
At the time of research, a telephone centre couple of eateries overlooking the river.
(and no one else apparently) could make Depending on water levels, islands appear
international calls for US$5 per minute to in the river. Consider hiring a boat for a day
Europe and US$6 to North America; its at the beach on an isolated one, or to mingle
a long block east of the market. The main with nomadic fishers who live there till the
hospital is a couple of more blocks east. water rises.

BAGAN &
Sights Sleeping
Magwes chief pagoda, the 1929 Mya Tha Lun Rolex Guest House (%23536; cnr Mya Than Lun Rd &
Paya, 2km north of the bridge, features a Ayeyarwady Bridge; s/d US$8/15; a) The more basic
gilded stupa and occupies a hilltop site with of the two licensed accommodation options
great river views. in Magwe, the Rolex is within walking dis-
Just across the river, about the same distance of the market and river, and has a
tance north of the bridge, is Minbu and the more eager-to-please staff. Oldish but clean
fun Nga Ka Pwe Taung (Dragon Lake), a burp- rooms include desk, twin or double beds,
ing pool of butane gas and mud that has and bathroom with cold shower.
(over the years) built a few acres of lunar- Sein San Hotel (%23499; 235 17th St; r US$15; a)
like terrain with bubbling pools atop four This is a bright complex of spick-and-span
odd mounds. The sludge isnt hot; if your rooms with skinny mattresses a few long
toes slip in, wash them off below at a small blocks east of the bridge.
MAGWE 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles Eating
Monalizar 2 River View (dishes K500-1500; h7am-
A To Mya Tha B 10pm) On the river, just south of the bridge,
Lun Paya (1.5km)
To Bagan
(165km)
this Chinese and Myanmar restaurant (and
lively beer station) is clearly Magwes hot
1 spot. As the sun dips across the river, lo-
Approximate Scale
cals (mostly guys) hit the jars of beer (big
pitchers are K1600) as a crew of 15 start up
Lan
yau
ng the 6pm music/dance show that some lo-
To Minbu (1km); ang
Nga Ka Pwe Yen cals watch through the open doors from
Market
Taung (3km) Sein San
Hotel the outside.
Magwe
Police
Station Sein Ya Padauk Myaing There are several simple restaurants on
Bridge

Thu Restaurant
Rolex
Guest House
the street a block east of the bridge rounda-
To Highway bout. One is the (rather overpriced) Sein
2 Bus Station
Ya Thu (dishes K1000-1500), which has portable
(500m)
Monalizar 2
River View
Market
Telephone Hospital Rd privacy walls plastered with beer ads and a
IWT Office Centre
Hospital
lone Myanmar Cares sticker.
Stran
d Rd

Myo
Civic
Park Magwes highway bus station is about 2.5km
ma
Ay
Stadium
east of the central market. A minibus con-
ey
St
Rd
ar
Stadium
wa
nects Magwe with Nyaung U (K2500, four to

yd
five hours), leaving at 6am from Nyaung U,

3 or at 4.30am, 6am or 7.30am from Magwe.
Ri
A 9am bus leaves for Pyay (K1600, seven

ve
r
or eight hours), and 5pm buses head out

To Pyay for Mandalay (K3000, 12 or 13 hours) and
(235km)
Yangon (K3500, 11 or 12 hours).
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY P y a y 283
Ferry-wise, the IWT office (%21503), one For (slow) Internet access, try the com-
block towards the river from the markets puter software store (Madaw Rd; per hr K1000), a
north side, isnt a lot of help. It cant sell couple of blocks north of Aung San.
tickets or even quote foreigner prices, but
can confirm ever-changing boat times or Sights
dock location. At research time, the boat SHWESANDAW PAYA & AROUND
to Mandalay (four days) via Bagan left at erzet;'.ur;"
9am on Monday and Saturday, and for Pyay Set on top a hill in the centre, the stunning
(30 to 35 hours) at 7am on Tuesday and Shwesandaw paya (and the surrounding pa-
Thursday. The ferry presently docks a few godas and monasteries) is not only Pyays
blocks west of the market, just south of the biggest point of interest, but one of the
Monalizar 2 River View restaurant. countrys biggest Buddhist pilgrimage sites.
Just over 1m taller than the main zedi at
Getting Around
BAGAN &
Yangons Shwedagon call it Shwe-D
A trishaw ride between the bus station and the Shwesandaw stupa follows the classic
hotels is about K500. Its slightly uphill on Bamar design seen at Bagans Shwezigon
the way from the centre; plan on 30 min- (p309).
utes. Motorcycle-taxis are usually more ex- Legend goes that it was built by a couple
pensive; you can rent one to see Dragon of merchants (with the kings help) in 589
Lake and Mya Tha Lun Paya for about BC, and that the golden zedi houses four
K3000 or K3500. strands of the Buddhas hair (the Golden
Hair Relics).
PYAY (PROME) Atop the zedi are two hti (umbrellalike
p' pinnacles), unusual for Myanmar. The
%053 lower, bigger one dates from Pyays days
This quiet, stupa-studded Ayeyarwady town, as a Mon city. The higher, smaller one was
294km north of Yangon, is at the cross- added by Alaungpaya as a symbol of peace
roads for bumpy bus rides west to Ngapali between the Burmese and Mon, after bru-
Beach, and less bumpy bus rides north to tally capturing the city in 1754.
Bagan. Over the years its practically seen In the southwest corner of the complex,
more archaeologists than travellers, due to the Sacred Tooth Hall is said to house an
the much-excavated ancient Pyu capital of original tooth from the Buddha. Its in the
Thayekhittaya (p286), 8km east. But Pyay golden bell (locked with padlock) behind
can fill a good day, with the ruins, hilltop pa- the glass. The locks come off once a year for
godas (particularly the famous, lit-at-night the November full-moon festivities.
Shwesandaw Paya), and a spectacled Buddha The panoramic views from the pagoda
south of town (p286). Locals alternate the are pretty great too. To the east, youll see
towns pronunciation between pyay and the Sehtatgyi Paya (Big Ten Storey), a giant
pyi. The Brits, apparently, couldnt deal (maybe not 10 storeys though) seated Bud-
with the confusion so called it Prome. dha watching over the Shwesandaw eye-
The current town site became an impor- to-eye.
tant trading centre during the Bagan era. The smaller gold stupa on the highest
The Mon controlled it when Burmese king hill southeast of Shwesandaw is the Wun-
Alaungpaya conquered it in 1754. Pyay chataung Paya (Apology Mountain Pagoda),
boomed, along with the British Irrawaddy where people can say sorry for misdeeds.
Flotilla Company in the 1890s. Today its They get the best view of Shwesandaw and
an important cargo town still, set at a trans- mountains across the river while theyre at
shipment point between northern and it. You can reach it via Sethatgyi Rd, east of
southern Myanmar. the Shwesandaw.
You can take an elevator up to the Shwe-
Orientation & Information sandaw platform from the northwest side,
Pyays centre spills along the streets around but its not really that big of a hike up. The
the gold Aung San statue, at the corner of northern stairway is lined with shops.
the PyayYangon Rd and Bogyoke Rd. The Theres a K200 fee for small cameras,
bus station is 2km east. K500 for big cameras or video cameras.
Pyay
284 B A G A N T O PYAY P y a y www.lonelyplanet.com
0 200 m
PYAY 0 0.1 miles
A B C D
To Magwe (249km);
Bagan (398km)
INFORMATION SLEEPING
Computer Software Store.............1 B1 Aung Gabar Guest House.............4 B2
Myat Lodging House...................5 A2
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Smile Motel..................................6 B2
t St
Sehtatgyi Paya.............................2 C3
St
Wunchataung Paya..................... 3 D3 EATING
Merchan
Strand Rd
Diamond Luck Restaurant............7 A3

Bazaar
Pyay Hline Ayay Restaurant..................8 A2

Traditional
Hospital 1 Indian Food..................................9 B2
Swe N Pyay Star Restaurant..................10 B2
wee P To Yangon
ayar S
t 9
Mosque 5 TRANSPORT
Bus Stop (Thandwe-Yangon
w Rd
Tat St Buses)....................................11 D2
Mada
IWT Office.................................12 A3
BAGAN &
Post Office
Kan St
2 Train
Fire Station d
e R To Bus Station (2km);
Park Brigade yok
Bog Payagyi Paya (3.5km);
Aung San 6 Mingalar Garden
8 11
Statue Resort (4km);
Bogyoke Rd Thayekhittaya
4 Set (8km)
Ayeyarw
10 hat
g yi
Tikyutson St
Rd
ady
2
7
Shwesandaw
River
Paya 3
Stran
Elevators
12
d Rd
Pyay-Y
3
ango
n Rd
To Southern Star
Restaurant (750m); To Shwedaung (14km);
Nawade Bridge (1km) Yangon (294km)
PAYAGYI PAYA Pyay action. The extra US$2 for rooms gets
.ur;"kI" you private bathroom, hot water and satellite
This towering pagoda stands on the road to TV. The shared bathrooms are spotless too.
Thayekhittaya, about 1.5km east of the bus Theres a lone double with fan and shared
station; it served as one of the four corners bathroom for US$8. The English-speaking
that bounded that ancient town. Its breast- family that runs the Myat (Burmese for
like structure is slightly swollen, with some royal) give out a Pyay map. Cell-like rooms
vegetation growing out of cracks in the ex- on the ground floor are for locals only.
posed bricks. Three terraces encircle it from Aung Gabar Guesthouse (%21400; 1462 Bogyoke
its base; ladies are not allowed on the upper Rd; s/d US$3/6) Pyays best dirt-cheap spot isnt
one. The modern hti is lit up at night. bad. Nice people run it (one reader called
Its history is linked with the nearby Thay- them Myanmars Cheech and Chong). Small
ekhittaya and most likely dates from the 5th- rooms with shared bathroom are basic (con-
or 6th-century AD. Nearby stand a couple crete floors, fan) but clean (and lighter than
of lofty teak trees, safe from woodcutters the dark hall suggests). Bogyoke Aung San
axes as they occupy sacred ground. seems to like it; the statue of him on horse-
back outside looks right at it. The guesthouse
Sleeping was planning to add an air-conditioned room
All of the following options include break- with private bathroom upstairs at research
fast in the price. time.
Smile Motel (% 22523; 10-11 Bogyoke Rd; s/d
BUDGET US$13/15; a) A block up Bogyoke Rd from
Myat Lodging House (%21361; 222 Bazaar St; s US$8-10, Aung San, this new motel has typical rooms
d US$10-12, tr US$16-18; a) This small backstreet with TV and hot-water showers attached.
guesthouse has well-loved, but simple rooms Rooms in front catch some traffic noise, but
(green carpet, writing desks) a block from the the place seems happy enough.
www.lonelyplanet.com B A G A N T O PYAY P y a y 285
MIDRANGE petrol availability) depart weekly for Yangon

Pyays nicest sleeping, by far, comes at Min- (deck/cabin US$8/18, two or three days) on
galar Garden Resort (%25518; mgresort.pyay@mpt Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. North-
mail.net.mm; s US$30-36, d US$36-42; a), a quiet ward ferries leave for Mandalay (US$12/24,
bungalow resort about 5km east of the about seven days) via Bagan two or three
centre (near the Pyagyi stupa). Seventeen times weekly too.
standard bungalows, 13 Japanese-style bun-
galows and five European superior bun- BUS & TRUCK
galows are set around a network of nice Pyay is located at the junction between
artificial ponds and a big lake. Its quite Yangon, Bagan and Thandwe (for Nga-
comfy livin (for Pyay at least) enough to pali Beach). The highway bus station, 2km
attract a passing tour group or two. Break- east of the centre (just off Bogyoke Rd),
fast is served in the lakeside gazebos; the sends frequent buses to Yangon (K1550, six
BAGAN &
lakes slurping carp fish will clamour for hours) via one of the nations smoothest
your crumbs. Its pretty remote if youre two-lane roads. Half a dozen companies
without wheels. A taxi from the centre is make the trip throughout the day, includ-
about K1500, a trishaw (long ride) about ing Asia Express (%21759), New Generation,
K1000. Yoma and Sun Moon.
There are no direct buses north to Bagan
Eating & Drinking from Pyay. At research time, a daily 9.30am
Pyay Star Restaurant (cnr Bogyoke Rd & PyayYangon bus headed north to Magwe (K1800, seven
Rd; dishes around K1000) Overlooking the statue, or eight hours) where you could change
is a buzzing, quite appealing two-floor beer buses to Bagan, usually the next day.
hall with pretty good Chinese food. To the Direct buses from Yangon to Thandwe
south are several more restaurants, includ- (Ngapali Beach) do not stop at the Pyay bus
ing the more family-oriented Diamond Luck station, instead letting off passengers a cou-
Restaurant, two blocks south. ple of blocks east of the Shwesandaw Paya
The Strand takes in the river and is home on Bogyoke Rd. Many buses at the station
to a few restaurants that double as music leave across the Nawade Bridge to Taung-
halls in the evening. Just west of the Aung gok (K2500 to K4000, eight or nine hours)
San statue, Hline Ayay (Strand Rd; dishes veg K800, fish around 6pm. From Taunggok you can catch
& meat K1200-2500; h7am-11pm) shows its years a bus or pick-up to Thandwe, or catch the
(and the bathroom has lots of mosquitos boat north to Sittwe.
and is dark and damp), but the (mostly Chi- Two daily buses head to Mandalay (K4550,
nese) food is good. A few seats are on the 13 hours) around 4pm. You can stop off at
open deck; all have river views. The music Meiktila for transfers to Inle Lake.
starts at 7pm. A giant cargo-style passenger truck goes
About a kilometre south, Southern Star to Pathein (K4000, 13 or more hours) on
Restaurant is a newer open-air riverside eat- a bumpy road at 8.30am. Youre far bet-
ery that sells pitchers of beer (K1600). After ter off going from Yangon. See p292 for a
sunset, food is less of a draw than the 7pm backroads link with Taungoo.
singers (female) playing for the drinking
posse (mostly male). TRAIN
A few grubbier spots are in the streets The train service is of little use to travellers,
north of Aung San, such as the rather lonely but a lone daily train connects Pyay with
Indian Food Stall (Swe Nwee Payar St). Yangon in nearly 12 hours.
Getting There & Away Getting Around

BOAT Trishaws and blue bed-back taxis are the
Routes along the Ayeyarwady start/stop in main ways of getting around. A trishaw ride
Pyay, heading either north or south. Few to/from the bus station is around K1000,
foreigners use either service. K1500 by blue taxi. Some locals may hesitate
The IWT office (%24503; the Strand; h9am-5pm in renting a bicycle; apparently a foreigner
Mon-Fri) is helpful on ever-changing times. got lost in a rice field at Thayekhittaya in
Presently two or three ferries (depending on recent years.
286 B A G A N T O PYAY A r o u n d P y a y www.lonelyplanet.com
AROUND PYAY Pyu sights, the least obviously renovated,

Thayekhittaya and the prototype of many Myanmar pa-
serextr; godas. You can walk up the three low-lying
About 8km east of the Aung San statue in terraces.
the neighbouring village of Hmawza, this A couple of hundred metres northeast is
ancient site (admission US$4; h8am-5pm) known the smaller cube-shaped Bebe Paya, with a
to Pali-Sanskrit scholars as Sri Ksetra (Fabu- cylindrical top and a few Buddha images
lous City) is an enormous Pyu city that inside. Just north is the squat Lamyethna Paya,
ruled in the area from the 5th to 9th centu- with a visible iron frame keeping it together.
ries AD. Local legend links its origin to the Inside four original Buddha reliefs (a bit
mythical King Duttabaung, who supposedly cracked, some faces missing) are visible. On
worked with ogres and other supernatural either side of the roads around here, look
creatures to build the magical city in 443 out for long ruts in the ground, made from
BAGAN &
BC. The earliest Pali inscriptions found here old canals.

date to the 5th or 6th centuries. A couple of hundred metres to the north
Seeing it means taking a three- or four- is a fork in the road; to the right (north) is
hour ox-cart loop to spaced-out temples a tin-roofed cemetery; to the left (west), on
(most just outside its oval city walls). It the way to Thaungpye Mound, is the bet-
cant rival Bagan in terms of majesty, but ter (but bumpier) way back to the museum.
lack of tourists and real peeks into local After 1km, youll pass by the old city gate
farming communities are serious bonuses. along the overgrown trail, and then 2km
Little is known about the Pyu; one useful on, through a booming farming village of
book is The Ancient Pyu of Burma by Janice thatch huts, with piles of radishes and other
Stargardt. produce. Towards the north end of the vil-
lage is the East Zegu Paya, a small four-sided
SIGHTS temple with overgrown walls and (usually)
Visitors usually start at the small museum, locked doors. Its off the main road, but
with a posted map of the area and a collec- worth seeing for the walk past fields and
tion of artefacts from excavations, includ- farmers to reach it.
ing royal funerary urns; a dvarapala (gate
guardian); statues of the Hindu deities Tara GETTING THERE & AWAY
Devi, Vishnu and Lakshmi; several 6th- The turn-off here is a few kilometres east of
century Buddha images; and silver coins Payagyi Paya. A return blue taxi should cost
minted in the kingdom. From here, you about K4000 or K5000. No direct pick-up
can arrange an ox cart for K3000, really the connects the centre with the site. You could
only way to make the 12km loop around the take one to the bus station, then hop on
handful of sites. Walking is possible, but another east-bound one to near the site.
its difficult to find your way without aid. Hmawza has a train station, but local
Bicycles arent permitted. trains supposedly were off limits to foreign-
Behind the museum to the south, the road ers at research time.
soon follows the remains of the old palace
walls; ox-cart drivers at a speed that ebbs Shwedaung
and flows to the mood of the ox make eret;='
a counterclockwise loop of the following This small town about 14km south of Pyay,
sites. via the road to Yangon, contains the famous
After 4km or so, the road passes Rahanta Shwemyetman Paya (Paya of the Golden Spec-
Gate, where fragments of the overgrown tacles), a reference to the large, white-faced
brick gate run alongside the dirt road. Im- sitting Buddha inside the main shrine. The
mediately south is the Rahanta cave temple, a Buddha wears a gargantuan set of eyeglasses
small, quite rebuilt temple with eight Bud- with gold-plated rims. Coming south from
dha images lined along the south wall. Pyay, the turn-off for Shwemyetman is lo-
About 2km south, the Bawbawgyi Paya is cated on the right-hand side of the road;
Thayekhittayas most impressive site: a 46m a small green-and-white sign in English
cylindrical stupa with a slightly banged-up reads Shwemyethman Buddha Image 1
golden hti on its top. Its among the oldest Furlong.
www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O M e i k t i l a 287
Spectacles were first added to the image

during the Konbaung era, when a nobleman
offered them to the temple in an attempt to
MEIKTILA TO TAUNGOO
stimulate local faith through curiosity. Word This popular northsouth route following
soon spread that the bespectacled Buddha the YangonMandalay Hwy some call it
had the power to cure all ills, especially af- the high road, though it runs west of the
flictions linked to the eyes. The first pair of Shan Hills is often taken on overnight
spectacles was stolen at an early stage, and a buses. Meiktila, nearly three-quarters of the
second pair was made and enshrined inside way to Mandalay from Yangon, is a gateway
the image to protect it from thieves. between the big four: Yangon, Mandalay,
An English officer stationed in Pyay dur- Inle Lake and Bagan.
ing the colonial era had a third pair fitted
over the Buddhas eyes after his wife suf- MEIKTILA
miqIl;
BAGAN &
fered from eye trouble and the abbot sug-
gested such a donation. Naturally, as the %064
story goes, she was cured. (This pair is now For many travellers with noses pressed
in a small shrine to the right of the image.) It against bus-window glass, Meiktila is a cross-
requires nine monks to remove the present roads between Yangon, Mandalay, Bagan and
glasses for their fortnightly cleaning. Inle Lake first, and a town second. Its also
One block south of the pagoda is a grand an important and prosperous trade centre
ol 1925 English home; another 20s beaut is that sees a lot of locals in uniform, as several
two blocks south and two blocks east. air-force bases are located north and south
Another famous pagoda in town, south of town.
of Shwemyetman, is the Shwenattaung Paya Legend goes that King Anawrahta, founder
(Golden Spirit Mountain), which report- of Bagan, had a pond here broadened to the
edly dates back to the Thayekhittaya era. current lake that looms west of town; when
A large paya pwe (pagoda festival) is held he asked someone to see if it went to Mt
here each year on the full moon of Tabaung Popa, the report came back, Lord, it doesnt
(February/March). go that far (Meiktila is an abbreviation of
To get here, you can hop on a pick-up the wordy bad-news report).
headed towards Yangon, which leave fre- In March 1945, the British surprised the
quently from the Pyay bus station and pass Japanese based here and killed 20,000 Japa-
by the Aung San statue before hitting the nese soldiers over the next few months in
highway. an important WWII loss for the Japanese.
Much of the city was flattened. The trend has
Akauk Taung continued, sadly, with fires. Town-engulfing
aek;k'et;=' fires devastated the city in 1974 and 1991.
Carved into cliffs overlooking the Ayeyar- In 2003 some of the centre was destroyed
wady, about 30km downstream from Pyay, (evidenced by burned-out buildings facing
are dozens of Buddha images at Akauk the Grand Cinema). One local warned, We
Taung (Tax Mountain). Its named for the have a fire every year. Better get fire insur-
crafty toll-takers from the mid-19th cen- ance if youre planning to stay.
tury, who spent the hours between taxing
boats by carving reclining and meditating Information
Buddhas in the steep cliffside. When classes arent being held you can ac-
To get there, youll need to taxi across cess the Internet at KMD Computer Centre (per
the Ayeyarwady to Htongo village, about 90 hr K700; h9am-10pm).
minutes by road from Pyay, then hire a boat
(about K5000) for the 45-minute look. To do Sights
so, you must bring a copy of your passport or Lake Meiktila is the towns premier attrac-
visa to show the strict immigration officers. tion. Though there are no boating options,
For some visitors, its too much travel for you can cycle around it. From the bridge
minimal payoff. A return taxi to Htongo north of the centre, a dirt path leads away
from Pyay (sometimes with Shwedaung from the road; it starts just past the Antaka
thrown in) is about K20,000 to K25,000. Yele Paya, a small island/pagoda reached
Meiktila
288 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O M e i k t i l a www.lonelyplanet.com
0 200 m
MEIKTILA 0 0.1 miles the lake is occupied by the military. Ask at
the village for the best way back to Meiktila,
A B or turn back.
INFORMATION
KMD Computer Centre................1 A4
Sleeping
1 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Honey Hotel (%21588; Pan Chan St; s US$5-10, d
Antaka Yele Paya.........................2 A4
Shwe Kyaung...............................3 A3 US$8-15; a) Right on the lake in town, this
friendly lemon-coloured converted man-
SLEEPING
Honey Hotel.................................4 B4 sion sees a fair share of travellers stopping
off. The free breakfast is served in a covered
EATING
gazebo overlooking the water. All 14 rooms
Honey Restaurant........................5 A4
To Myingyan
(95km)
Kan Thar Yar................................6 A4
Shwe Ohn Pin..............................7 B4
are clean and comfy. Cheaper rooms have
fan, cold shower and squat toilet; the higher-
BAGAN &
DRINKING
Gold Rain Tea Center...................8 A4
priced ones have hot water, sit-down toilet
2 and air-con (and some of these rooms are
TRANSPORT
Bus Ticket Stands.........................9 A3
h.u.g.e). Room C-1 is a stand-alone bunga-
Pick-Ups to Myingyan................10 A2 low by the water.
10 Bus
Station
Wunzin Hotel (%21848; 49A Than Lwin Rd; r econ-
To Mandalay
Htee Thone (154km) omy US$6, standard from US$30; a) This former
Sint Paya
government-run hotel on the north bank
9
of the lake is showing its years. All but the
Clock
Tower
economy rooms come with air-condition.
3
Though under private (and quite chatty)
3 management, the hotel does still give off a
Approximate Scale
Market
rather official air. Biking groups stop here
Train
Station
often.
To Wunzin Hotel (250m);

Eating & Drinking
British Colonial Diplomat
To Taunggyi
(190km);
Kan Thar Yar (dishes K800-2000) At the best spot
House (250m);
Nyaung U (146km) Grand Yangon
(554km) in town, facing the Antaka Yele Paya on
Cinema
the lake and within walking distance of the
1 8 centre, this open-air restaurant (with tables
4 2
7
at the edge of the water) is focused on beer
5
sales (or the staff singing Myanmar rock
Lake 4 karaoke), but the foods not bad. Lots of
6
Meiktila guys congregate here. Most families prefer
nearby Honey Restaurant (same owners as
hotel); it faces the water, but all seating is
by a wooden pier in the lake and lit up inside.
at night. Shwe Ohn Pin (dishes K800-2000; h7am-10pm)
About 250m south of the bridge, the dark This simple tiled restaurant, located on
building to the east of the Wunzin Hotel (its the MandalayYangon road in the centre,
economy rooms actually) was once a British hands you an English menu for its Chinese
colonial diplomat house, and later was a fierce and Myanmar dishes. The curd curry with
interrogation centre used by the Japanese in rice (K1000) comes with big hunks of hlan
WWII. (Supposedly Aung San Suu Kyi and no kei (Indian-style cheese) mixed with
Michael Aris honeymooned here.) cauliflower and okra in a thick sauce.
Near the west end of the lake, Shwe Kyaung Gold Rain Tea Center (tea K100) The combo of
is a walled monastery on the inland side tree shade, high-up green tarpaulins, guys
of the road with Japanese signs leading in air-force uniforms (and some civilians)
to a WWII monument that British and Japa- gives this central, always-busy teashop a
nese survivors put up in 1972. Monks will bunker feel. But not in a bad way.
show you around. Just past, a picturesque Around Gold Rain are several snack ven-
path leads between the lake and (usually) dors, certainly Meiktilas liveliest spots on
flooded rice fields. Much of the east side of most nights.
www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O P y i n m a n a 289
Getting There & Away leafy, almost tropical place with a street-
BUS spilling market in the walkable centre spiced
Express buses zooming between Yangon and with mosques, pagodas and the small Shan
Mandalay stop on the road east of the clock Lake a welcome change if youre arriv-
tower (and not at the local bus station), ing from the dusty dry zone to the north.
and along this road youll find half a dozen Theres little of historic interest, and not
ticket-sales shops. Air-conditioned buses much to do, but its another great candidate
bound for Mandalay (K1500, four hours) for a real town to explore around. Coconut
leave around 9am; for Yangon (K4500, 10 to palms are planted along the Ngalaik River,
12 hours) at 7pm or so. Theres also an ex- passing through the towns north side. You
press bus for Pyay (K4300, 12 to 14 hours) can see the Shan Yoma and Aleh Yoma
at 5pm. (Shan and Aleh mountain ranges) to the east
The ordinary bus station is just east of and west.
BAGAN &
the Htee Thone Sint Paya, north of the clock Traditionally there have been more pro-
tower. Here you can catch local buses for paganda signs here, erected to scare off vis-
Mandalay every 30 minutes or so, as well as iting undercover rebels. Insurgent territory,
pick-ups (K2000). technically, begins just 30km east.
PICK-UP & TAXI Sleeping

From the bus station, pick-ups for Taung- Phoenix Hotel (%21646; 18 Boletyar Rd; s US$7-18, d
gyi (K1200) leave regularly; three morning US$12-24; a) is a boxy, four-storey place, a
buses (K2500) go from 6am to 9am. couple of blocks northeast of the market,
Three daily pick-up trucks for Nyaung U and was the only place in town licensed for
(K3500) go in the afternoon; about six go to foreigners at research time. All rooms have
Kyaukpadaung (K1200). Pick-ups south to private bathroom with cold water and air-
Pyinmana (K1000/3000 for the back/front con. The cheaper rooms are on the ground
seat, four to six hours) leave regularly. floor, where the lobby TV can disturb
Pick-ups for Myingyan (K1000, 2 hours) winks till midnight; superior rooms upstairs
leave regularly from the main road in front have TV.
of the Htee Thone Sint Paya.
From the bus station, you can hire sa- Eating
loon taxis for Mandalay (about K35,000), Near the bus station are a number of places
Bagan (about K30,000) and Taunggyi (about where you can eat.
K50,000). Yan Naing Restaurant (%21369; 1813 Bo Tauk
Htain St; dishes from K1000; h7am-11pm), across the
TRAIN highway, and a couple of hundred metres
Theres a small train station in town, catch- uphill, has friendly staff members who can
ing slow trains heading east-west. A more help with area information and offer Eng-
useful station is in Thazi, about 25km east, lish menus and tasty rice dishes.
at the crossroads of the Yangon, Mandalay Golden View Tea & Cold, on the eastern
and Taunggyi lines. end of Shan Lake, is a nice spot for sunset
sipping.
Getting Around A couple of other nice choices are on Bog-
Horse cart is the chief mode of getting yoke St, a couple of blocks northwest of the
around town north of the clock tower, blue market.
taxi to the south. A ride from the bus sta-
tion to Honey Hotel is around K800 by Getting There & Away
horse, K1000 by blue taxi. You can rent a The bus station, near a monument of a
bike from Honey Hotel for K500 per day. log-pushing elephant, is on the highway,
1km west of central Shan Lake. Its a short
PYINMANA trishaw ride to the lake or hotels in town.
pYw'"mn;" Several good-looking (but without air-
%067 con) buses leave for Yangon (K2400, eight
Coming from Yangon, Pyinmana is the first hours) at 6.30pm and 8pm. Buses to Man-
major town in Mandalay Division. It is a dalay (K2700, eight hours) leave at 9am.
290 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O Ta u n g o o www.lonelyplanet.com
Ask at Yan Naing about catching an ex- Mandalay-style sitting Buddha, given to
press, air-conditioned bus going between the paya in 1912 by a retired civil servant
Yangon and Mandalay. A local bus leaves who donated his body weight in bronze and
for Magwe at 4am. silver for the casting of the image. He died
You can also get a pick-up heading north three years after the casting at age 72; his
to Meiktila (K1000, four to six hours). ashes are interred behind the image.
Trains chugging between Yangon and Another pavilion in the northwestern
Mandalay stop in Bago, Taungoo, Pyinmana corner of the compound houses a garish
and Thazi. From here it takes 7 hours to reclining Buddha surrounded by devas (ce-
reach Yangon, and six to nine hours to reach lestial beings) and monastic disciples. Glass
Mandalay. cabinets along the wall display small, mostly
modern, religious objects and Buddhas

TAUNGOO donated by the faithful. Among the other
BAGAN &
et;='= tazaung (shrines) is one that displays sculp-

%054 tures of the seven Taungoo kings, a small
Taungoo (often spelt Toungoo), once the Kuan Yin pavilion to placate the Chinese, a
centre of one of the most powerful post- nat shrine with images of Saraswati and her
Bagan kingdoms, is today worth a stop less attendants, and a Shin Upagot shrine.
for historic reasons and more for conven-
ience and comfort (and a beautiful guest- MYASIGON PAYA
house just outside town). The area is one mc'"gu.ur;"
of the few places where coffee is grown,
and the only place in the country where the Though not as well known as Shwesandaw,
antiquated steam engines are repaired. this is the most interesting of the three fa-
Virtually nothing visibly historic remains mous zedi in town. A brick pahto (hollow
to indicate its former 15th- to 16th-century shrine or temple) beneath the stupa features
glory. Today its simply a typical central My- glass mosaic arches, paintings of Taungoo
anmar town supported by the timber trade. kings and a huge, bronze-and-silver-faced
Among Burmese, the town is most known sitting Buddha in royal attire. The image
for its bounteous areca (betel) palms. In My- is surrounded by planet Buddhas (Buddhas
anmar, when someone receives unexpected for specific planets, corresponding to the
good fortune they are likened to a betel- days of the week), an arrangement usually
lover receiving a paid trip to Taungoo. reserved for stupas. Smaller Buddhas, some
Kayin State is less than 35km east, and of them old, are displayed in glass cases in
another 65km or so further east is Kayah the same building. Opposite the large sitting
State. Karen and Kayah insurgents have image, against a couple of pillars, are two
been known to operate within these dis- Chinese bronze goddess statues, one sitting
tances. A dry-weather road continues east on an elephant, the other on a Fu dog.
all the way to Loikaw, but any travel beyond A small museum (admission free; h9am-4pm) on
the Sittoung (Sittang) River a few kilome- the grounds contains bronze images of Era-
tres to the east of Taungoo still requires wan (the three-headed elephant who serves
special permission, which is virtually im- as Indras mount), a standing Buddha cap-
possible to obtain. tured from Thailand by King Bayinnaung
and two British cannons dated 1897.
Sights
SHWESANDAW PAYA ELEPHANT CAMPS
erzet;'.ur;" Taungoo is the starting point for visits
Situated in the centre of town, west of the to the nearby working elephant camps in a
main road, this is Taungoos grandest pil- mountainous area of Karen villages and
grimage spot. The central stupa, a standard- teakwood plantations. The Seinyay Forest
issue bell shape, is gilded and dates to 1597; Camp, once the most accessible, has since
local legend says an earlier stupa on the closed and will be completely submerged
site was built centuries before and contains when the area dam project is completed.
sacred-hair relics. A pavilion on the western How far you get and how much you see
side of the stupa contains a 3.6m bronze, depends on whether youre on a day-return
www.lonelyplanet.com M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O Ta u n g o o 291
trip, or spending the night at a camp re- ever here: almost two dozen small plates
sort, or even in one of the villages. with every variety of sticky rice, samosas,
Its cheaper to book a trip to a camp sweets and exotic fruits. There are three sep-
out of Taungoo than Yangon. Ask for Dr arate teak homes, all with wide porches and
Chan Aye of the Myanmar Beauty Guest House gorgeous views of surrounding rice pad-
([email protected]), who can arrange a dies, palm trees and mountains. The room
day-return trip for US$45/40 per person furnishings are also all in teak, some with
for two/three or more people. The price in- four-poster beds, satellite TV and hot-water
cludes the necessary permits, return trans- showers. The nicest and largest rooms are
port, a walk into the forest, an elephant ride, the two on the 2nd floor of home number
a lunch of rice and curry, and plenty of bot- four. If arriving by public transport from
tled water. Bamboo rafting and motorbiking Yangon, ask to be let off just after the bridge
in the jungle can be added for an additional before town. Its only a few minutes walk
BAGAN &
fee. Overnight trips with a stay in either down a dirt road on the right-hand side of
Shwe Daung or Ngwe Daug, both Karen the highway.
villages, cost US$125 per person for three or Hotel Amazing Kaytu (%21977; zayya@myanmar
four people. The good doctor provides free .com.mm; 8th St Ohtkyauttan; s/d US$18/30; a) This
medical service to villagers in the area. modern hotel is comfortable, especially its
A few travel agencies in Yangon book trips beds, and has well-furnished rooms and TV.
for about US$100 a day, including Wood- Its maybe the most upscale place in town,
land Travel (p89). but it doesnt compare to the rustic chic of
Note: elephants work 6am to around the Myanmar Beauty Guest House.
11am daily, later in the rainy and cool sea- Myanmar Beauty Guest House I (%23270, 23527;
son, so an early start is essential if you want 7/134 Bo Hmu Pho Kun St; r with fan/air-con US$5/8;a)
to see the elephants doing anything more To get here the original Myanmar Beauty
than dreaming of very attractive elephants. Guest House (also known as Myanma A-
Hla) from the main road through Taun-
OTHER SIGHTS goo, turn west before the Taungoo Baptist
In spite of the fact that seven kings reigned Church onto Bo Hmu Pho Kun St. Its one
over Taungoo for a total of 155 years, all thats block north of the main market. All rooms
left of the secular kingdom known then as have mosquito netting on request, and an
Kaytumadi are a few earthen ramparts and excellent Bamar-Western breakfast is served.
a moat on the western side of town. Nearby At the front of this compound is a clinic
Lay Kyaung Kandawgyi, the towns royal lake, run by Dr Chan Aye Dr Tin Thein and
features a few small islands topped with Dr Yee Yee Ayes son and his wife, Dr Yi
pavilions. Lay Mon.
Follow the road west of the lake to reach The decaying, government-owned My-
Kawmudaw Paya, said to be the oldest religious anma Thiri Hotel is well off the eastern
site in Taungoo. The central pink-and-white, side of the main road towards the southern
bell-shaped stupa is not that impressive. A end of town.
mirrored pillar marks the earth-conquering
spot from which Taungoo kings set off to Eating
conquer other armies. Worshippers walk Private Home Restaurant (dishes K1200) This res-
clockwise around the pillar in the hope of taurant down a small dirt road off the main
conquering their personal problems. highway is difficult to find, but the Chi-
nese and Thai dishes are tasty, especially the
Sleeping soups, and meals are served in small out-
Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III & IV (%23270, door bungalows.
23527; Pauk Hla Gyi St; [email protected]; Other recommendations for Bamar and
r US$8-25; a) This place is reason enough to Chinese cuisine:
visit Taungoo. The guesthouse is owned by Tin Tin Aye Myanmar Restaurant Look for the red-
two doctors (husband and wife), Dr Tin and-yellow Tin Tin Aye sign on the right side of the main
Thein and Dr Yee Yee Aye, who seem to de- road coming from Yangon.
light in conversing with international travel- Moekaungki Restaurant Around the corner from the
lers. We had his most spectacular breakfast Myanmar Beauty Guest House I.
292 M E I K T I L A T O TAU N G O O Ta u n g o o www.lonelyplanet.com
Happy Restaurant On the main road near the turn-off CAR

for the Myanmar Beauty Guest House II, III & IV. Taungoo makes an great stopover if youve
hired a car. If you have your own vehicle and
At the night market that convenes next to are feeling adventurous, the 100km unpaved
the central market, vendors specialise in logging road from Oktwin (15km south of
chapatis and meat-stuffed palata (fried flat- Taungoo) to Pakkaung provides a unique
bread). shortcut to Pyay. For the remaining 39km
Win Sanda and Sein Taik, near Nansanda from Pakkaung to Pyay the road is sealed
Guest House (which doesnt accept foreign- but not in good condition. This is a tiring, at
ers) at the corner of the market, are two least all-day trip; start early and bring at least
popular side-by-side teashops. One focuses one spare tyre, plus food and plenty of water.
on samosas, the other on paug-si (Chinese Dr Chan Aye (see p290) can make this trip
buns); theyre both open from 5.30am to with you in his Toyota Land Cruiser, includ-
BAGAN &
around 9pm. ing a one- or two-night stop in a village or

jungle camp along the way (US$180).
Getting There & Away Forget about travelling east to Loikaw.
AIR The narrow road beyond the Sittoung River
Myanma Airways has an office in town and is now in relatively good condition, but
has flights connecting Taungoo and Heho military checkpoints will undoubtedly turn
(US$35), which is close to Inle Lake, four you away and there are reports of bandits
days a week. in the mountains.
BUS TRAIN
Taungoo is considered a midway point The 15 Up or 16 Down (same train) and the
for road trips between Yangon, Mandalay, 17 Up or 18 Down (same train) are express
Kalaw and Taunggyi. Coming north from trains. These trains, which run between
Yangon or Bago or south from Mandalay, Yangon and Mandalay, all stop in Taungoo.
Thazi, Kalaw or Taunggyi, if you want a The 17 Up and 18 Down services are run by
seat on the most comfortable buses youll Dagon-Mann, a private company. Tickets
have to pay the full K6000 or so fare even for these trains arent sold in Taungoo but
though youre hopping on/off at Taungoo. your guesthouse can make reservations.
Most of these services pass through Taun- In the northerly direction, the No 17 Up
goo between 6pm and 10pm. The seven-to- to Mandalay (upper class US$18) leaves
eight-hour bus to Kalaw arrives extremely Yangon around 8pm and arrives at Taun-
early in the morning. goo at around 3am; the No 15 Up departs at
Most buses to Taungoo stop at the Golden 11pm and arrives at 5am; and the No 7 Up
Myanmar Restaurant on the main road. A leaves at 8pm and gets to Taungoo around
few may also collect passengers near the 3am to 4am, and Mandalay around 11am.
central market. Step lively, as the train only stops in Taun-
Cheaper, but a lot less comfortable public goo for 10 minutes. Two other trains with
buses without air-con are available to Yan- much more civilised departure times (ordi-
gon (K1700) and Mandalay (K2000) around nary class only US$7) leave for Mandalay
6pm daily. These buses can be flagged down at 3pm and 10pm and reach Mandalay in
anywhere along the main road or at the about seven hours.
central market. Count on taking around 10 All of these trains stop in Thazi, where
hours to get to either city. See p123 for bus you can then connect to a train or bus to
departure times from Yangon. Kalaw, or a bus to Nyaungshwe (Inle Lake).
293
Temples of Bagan
Imagine all the medieval cathedrals of Europe sitting on Manhattan
island and then some and you start to get a sense of the ambition
of the Bagan kings, who built as many as 4400 temples over a 230-year
period on this riverside plain. Neglect, looting, earthquakes, erosion
and bat dung have done their part to undermine its majesty, but Bagan
(Pagan) still stands strong. Seeing it for a couple of days or for a full
28-day visas worth can make a trip. And youll only be skimming the
surface.
This section gives some background to Bagans birth, and information
on some of the highlights. For details of information, additional sights,
accommodation, eating and transport options, see p264. Sites discussed
in this chapter are shown on the map on p267.
HISTORY
The extraordinary religious fervour that resulted in this unique collection
of buildings lasted two-and-a-half centuries. Although human habitation Bagari Kings built almost
at Bagan dates back almost to the beginning of the Christian era, Bagan 20 temples a year in the
only entered its golden period with the conquest of Thaton in AD 1057. area over a period of
Just over 200 years later Bagan declined, and in 1287 was overrun by the 230 years.
Mongols of Kublai Khan. But what fantastic effort happened in those
years! Since the Mongol invasion, the sites have been deserted and barely
touched over the centuries.
Bagan: the Prequel

Originally, this bend in the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River was occupied
by a stable and thriving Pyu city-state, perhaps allied with Beikthano and
Thayekhittaya (Sri Ksetra) to the south as well as Hanlin to the northeast.
Excavations along the ruined city walls indicate that by 850 the city had
reached complex proportions. The name Bagan may in fact derive from
Pyugan, a name first written down by the Annamese of present-day
Vietnam in the mid-11th century as Pukam. In post-18th-century Bur-
mese parlance the name became Bagan, which was corrupted as Pagan
by the British.
READING UP ON BAGAN
Some of the following are available from vendors at some major temples, such as Ananda (p300),
and usually at the Ever Sky Information Service in Nyaung U (p269) or Old Bagan hotel stores.
Glimpses of Glorious Bagan is a 60-page paperback with (dated) colour photos and details of
most of the key temples (including some not covered in this section). Its pretty thorough,
and you can pick it up around Bagan for a few thousand kyat.
Pagan: Art & Architecture of Old Burma, by Paul Strachan, is a more comprehensive, well-
researched art history of Bagan, in which everything from artefacts to buildings is divided
into the three stylistic periods. Vendors sell it for US$20 to US$25.
Inventory of Monuments at Bagan, by Pierre Pichard, is a massive seven-volume treatise on the
archaeology of Bagan, which provides schematic diagrams of many of the temples. Pichard
is an archaeologist from the cole Franaise dExtrme Orient (EFEO), who worked with the
Unesco effort in the early 1990s. At over US$160 per volume, this is for serious enthusiasts
only.
294 T E M P L E S O F B A G A N H i s t o r y www.lonelyplanet.com
Glory Days
Bagans prime began with the Bamar King Anawrahtas ascent to the
throne in 1044. At this time, Myanmar was in a period of transition
from Hindu and Mahayana Buddhist beliefs to the Theravada Buddhist
beliefs that have since been characteristic of Myanmar. Manuha, the
Mon king of Thaton, sent a monk to convert Anawrahta; the latter met
with such success that Anawrahta asked Manuha to give him a number
of sacred texts and important relics. Manuha, uncertain of the depths of
Anawrahtas beliefs, refused the request. Anawrahtas reply to this snub
was straightforward he marched his army south, conquered Thaton
and carted everything worth carrying to Bagan including 32 sets of the
After Bamar King Tripitaka (the classic Buddhist scriptures), the citys monks and scholars
Anawrahta conquered and, for good measure, King Manuha himself.
the Mon kingdom of Immediately Anawrahta set about a great programme of building,
Thaton, he had 30,000 and some of the greatest Bagan edifices date from his reign. Among the
Mon prisoners of war better known monuments he constructed are the beautiful Shwezigon
brought back to Bagan. (Shwezigon Paya), considered a prototype for all later Burmese stupas;
the Pitaka Taik (Scripture Library), built to house the Pitaka (scriptures)
carried back from Thaton by 30 elephants; and the elegant and distinctive
Shwesandaw Paya, built immediately after the conquest of Thaton. Thus
began what the Burmese call the First Burmese Empire, which became a
major centre for Theravada Buddhism and a pilgrimage point for Bud-
dhists throughout Southeast Asia.
King Anawrahtas successors, particularly Kyanzittha, Alaungsithu
and Narapatisithu, continued scratching this phenomenal building itch,
although the construction work must have been nonstop throughout
the period of Bagans glory. Pali inscriptions of the time called the city
Arimaddanapura (City of the Enemy Crusher) and Tambadipa (Copper
Marco Polo described the Land).
towers of Bagan in his
famous 1298 chronicle Decline
as being covered with Historians disagree on what exactly happened to cause Bagans appar-
gold a good finger in ently rapid decline at the end of the 13th century. The popular Burmese
thicknessone of the view is that millions of Mongols sent by Kublai Khan swept over the city,
finest sights in the world. ransacking and looting. A more thoughtful view holds that the threat of
invasion from China threw the last powerful ruler of Bagan into a panic;
after a great number of temples were torn down to build fortifications,
the city was abandoned, in which case the Mongols merely took over an
already deserted city.
Evidence suggests Bagan may have continued as an important reli-
gious and cultural centre into the 14th century, after which its decay
can be blamed on the three-way struggle between the Shan, Mon and
BAGAN PERIODS
Most temples that youll come across during your exploration of Bagan are divided into these
three periods:
Early period (c 8501120) This period was influenced by Mon and late Pyu architecture, as seen in Pyay (p283),
and is characterised by perforated windows and dimly lit interiors.
Middle period (c 110070) Temples became bigger during this period and were better lit by broader windows,
with more of an eye to vertical proportions than horizontal lines.
Late period (c 11701300) The late period saw more intricate pyramidical spires or adorning tile work added
to the buildings, with an increase of Indian influence, and (some say) a seeping in of Mahayana Buddhism
influence.
www.lonelyplanet.com T E M P L E S O F B A G A N H i s t o r y 295
BAGANS KINGS
The kings who reigned over Bagan during its golden period and their major buildings:
Anawrahta 1044-77 Shwesandaw Paya
Sawlu 1077-84
Kyanzittha (aka Sawlu) 1084-1113 Ananda Pahto, Shwezigon Paya
Alaungsithu 1113-67 Thatbyinnyu, Shwegugyi
Narathu 1167-70 Dhammayangyi Pahto
Naratheinkha 1170-73
Narapatisithu 1174-1211 Sulamani Pahto, Dhammayazika Paya
Nantaungmya (aka Htilominlo) 1211-34 Gawdawpalin Pahto, Mahabodhi Paya
Kyaswa 1234-50
Uzana 1250-55
Narathihapati 1255-87 Mingalazedi, Payathonzu
Bamar for supremacy over northern Myanmar. Whatever happened,

from the 14th to 18th centuries Bagan was considered a spooky region,
riddled with bandits and nat (guardian spirits). The Burmese only began
moving back in some numbers after the British established a presence
in the area.
Its hard to imagine Bagan as it once was because, like other Burmese
royal cities, only the major religious buildings were made of permanent
materials. The kings palaces were all constructed of wood, and even most
kyaung (monasteries) were partly or wholly wooden. So what remains is
just a frail shadow of Bagan at its peak. Bagan scholar Paul
Strachan argues in Pagan:
1975 Earthquake Art and Architecture of Old
In 1975 Bagan was shaken by a powerful earthquake, registering 6.5 on Burma that the city was
the Richter scale. Contrary to initial fears, this 1000-year-old site was not never abandoned at all.
totally ruined. Many of the more important temples were badly damaged,
but major reconstruction started almost immediately.
Since renovation of these important religious monuments has been
an ongoing project for many centuries, the old skills have not been lost
and many monuments were rebuilt using traditional means. Unescos
recent restoration projects now support dozens of local artisans and,
although you certainly wont see any modern construction equipment
BAGAN VOCABULARY
A few terms used frequently to describe Bagan sites or features:
gu cave temple
hti umbrellalike decorated pinnacle atop stupa
Jataka stories of Buddhas past lives
kyaung monastery
pahto temple or shrine, with hollow interior (some with one entrance to a windowless vault; others with four
entrances and images around central cube)
paya means holy one; refers to pagodas, stupas, zedi or other Buddhist monuments, including statues
shwe- prefix meaning gold
sikhara Indian-style, corncoblike temple finial
stupa zedi; solid hemispherical or cylindrical cone
thein ordination hall
what country you come from? standard greeting
zedi stupa; solid hemispherical or cylindrical cone
296 T E M P L E S O F B A G A N H o w B i g i s B a g a n ? www.lonelyplanet.com
in Bagan, modern techniques are being employed as well. For example,

Unesco engineers are reinforcing some of the monuments by inserting
iron beams in the masonry to preserve the structural integrity in case of
an earthquake.
As for the hundreds of lesser monuments, anything that was likely
to fall off in an earthquake would have fallen off centuries ago. While it
was quite evident which of the major temples were repaired, Bagan has
never looked like a huge building site. Some of the restoration, such as the
repairs to the Gawdawpalin Pahto, took until the early 1980s to complete.
Other repairs continue.
Recent History
The village that grew up in the middle of the walled area of Old Bagan
during the 1970s was moved to the middle of a peanut field several kilo-
metres away just before the May 1990 elections. Old Bagan residents were
Myanmar authorities only given about a weeks notice by the government to move and rebuild
were so thorough erasing in the new location, known as New Bagan (Bagan Myothit).
all traces of the village The latest eyebrow-raising move was the start of the construction of
that existed in Old Bagan an observation tower and upscale hotel (just southeast of Nyaung U)
that its now hard to tell that breaks the building code the government implemented. Though
that a village ever existed construction was on hold at research time, it is scheduled to dwarf all
here. temples. The same Yangon entrepreneur responsible was also building
a reconstruction of the palace within the walls of Old Bagan. Equally
unsettling as the tower is the recently built, and way out of place, 19th-
century-style home of the huge Archaeological Museum (p273) in Old
Bagan.
HOW BIG IS BAGAN?

Bagans big, but no-one really knows how many temples were built.
Supposedly, by the end of the 13th century the official count of sites
was 4446. By 1901 surveys found 2157 monuments still standing and
identifiable. A 1978 count a few years after the disastrous earthquake
found 2230, a figure which doesnt include brick mounds, which would
make the total 4000.
The catch is that the number of temples keeps growing. With so many
Buddhists looking to snare a little merit to ensure an upgrade in the next
life, rich Yangon residents (including many government officials) build
new stupas; apparently 300 new ones have gone up around Bagan in the
first few years of this century. This leads many to shake their heads as they
look upon new, obviously modern temples staining one of the worlds
most impressive ancient cities, but many others enjoy seeing Bagan still
breathing new air.
WATCH THAT BAG!

Every year many tourists, trying to hurry past others, inevitably scrape their backpack or oversized
camera bag against already-crumbling but priceless murals. Be sure not to add to the problem;
its generally safe to leave your backpack outside.
The Department of Archaeology has closed off upper terraces of some of the more popular
temples, including Ananda and Sulamani, while outside investors have donated the money to
cover murals with clear glass. In the mid 1990s, Unesco worked with the government to preserve
Bagan, though apparently frustration with government interference drove them out in 1996.
Of the US$10 fee collected from visitors to Bagan, apparently only half goes to the Department
of Archaeology, which seems sincere in its efforts to preserve the sites.
www.lonelyplanet.com O L D B A G A N G a w d a w p a l i n Pa h t o 297
OLD BAGAN
pugDmuieh;='"
This roughly counterclockwise circuit takes in temples within the old city
walls. From the Archaeological Museum (p273) or some Old Bagan hotels,
you could loop through these sites on foot, if desired, in a 2km loop.
GAWDAWPALIN PAHTO
eget;'pl='puqiu"
Just north of the Archaeological Museum, on the road between Nyaung
U and New Bagan, Gawdawpalin is one of the largest and most impos-
ing Bagan temples at 60m, you cant miss it. Built during the reign of
Narapatisithu and finished under Nantaungmyas, its considered the During the 1890s two
crowning achievement of the Late period. Its name means Platform to enterprising Germans
which Homage is Paid. The most recent homage was its heavy-duty re- removed plaques, statues
construction following terrific damage sustained in the 1975 earthquake and murals from Bagon.
(it stands near that quakes epicentre). You can see many of these
Inside, past a fair share of vendors, is a quite modern, active altar (tile at the Berlin Vlkerkunde
floors, donation boxes); along the four walls are 10 Buddha images and Museum or the Hamburg
some barely visible murals. Stairs ascending through the walls to the top Ethnographical Museum.
terrace are closed to visitors.
MIMALAUNG KYAUNG
mI"mel;='ekY;='"
A nice set of chinthe (half lion/half dragon mythical beasts) guards the
stairway leading up this small, square monastery platform, constructed
in 1174 by Narapatisithu. Its about 200m south of Gawdawpalin, on the
other side of the road. In front of the monastery is a brick-and-stucco
Tripitaka library next to a large acacia tree. Atop the steps, a tiered
roof (with a newer gold-capped hti, an umbrellalike decorated pinnacle)
contains a large sitting Buddha. Archaeologists discovered an intricately
carved 6cm votive tablet here that contained 78 sculpted figures.
PAHTOTHAMYA
puqiu"s;"mY;"
On the dirt road 150m east towards the dominating Thatbyinnyu, the
Pahtothamya (or Thamya Pahto) was probably built during the reign of
Kyanzittha around the turn of the 12th century, although it is popularly
held to be one of five temples built by the little known king Taunghthugyi
(aka Sawrahan; 93164). The interior of this single-storey building is dimly
lit, typical of the early type of Pyu-influenced temples, with their small,
perforated stone windows. In its prominent vertical superstructure and
reconstructed lotus-bud sikhara (corncoblike temple finial), however, the
monument is clearly beginning to move forward from the Early period.
Often kids with a torch will point out the super painting remnants
along the interior passages, perhaps the earliest surviving murals in
Bagan. Steps lead up to a roomy viewing platform.
NATHLAUNG KYAUNG
nt'elH;='ekY;='"
Between Pahtothamya and Thatbyinnyu, this is the only Hindu temple
remaining in Bagan. The exterior of the stubby temple remains much
damaged from the 1975 earthquake. Only the main hall and superstruc-
ture stand.
298 O L D B A G A N T h a t b y i n n y u Pa h t o www.lonelyplanet.com
A sign dates it to the early 11th century. Its also said to have been
built in 931 by Taunghthugyi; if true, this was about a century before the
southern school of Buddhism came to Bagan, following the conquest of
Thaton.
The temple is dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu. Gupta-style reliefs
of the 10 Avatars were placed around the outside wall; seven of these
survive.
The central square of brick supports the dome and crumbled sikhara,
and once contained freestanding figures of Vishnu, as well as Vishnu
reliefs on each of the four sides. The statues were stolen by a German oil
engineer in the 1890s, but the badly damaged brick-and-stucco reliefs
can still be seen.
This temples name means Shrine Confining Nat, a reference to a
purported time when King Anawrahta is said to have confiscated all non-
Buddhist religious images both indigenous Burmese nat and Hindu
devas (celestial beings) and placed them in this shrine as part of an
effort to establish pure Theravada Buddhism. The king eventually gave
in to the cult and standardised the current roster of principal Burmese
nat by placing 37 chosen images at Shwezigon Paya. The veracity of this
account has never been confirmed, but most Bagan residents in fact
virtually all Burmese accept it as fact.
THATBYINNYU PAHTO
sbMupuqiu"
Named for omniscience, Bagans highest temple (about 150m east of
Nathlaung and 200m south of Shwegugyi) is built of two white-coloured
boxy storeys, each with three diminishing terraces rimmed with spires
and leading up to a gold-tipped sikhara, 63m up. Its monumental size
and verticality make it a classic example of Bagans Middle period and
neatly provide a chronological link between two nearby big cats, the
Early-period Ananda and Late-period Gawdawpalin. Built in 1144 by
Alaungsithu, its terraces are encircled by indentations for 539 Jataka.
Plaques were never added, leading some scholars to surmise that the
monument was never consecrated.
The small tally zedi
Visitors are barred from climbing Thatbyinnyus inner passages to the
(stupa) just northeast of
top terrace, which is supposedly an amazing network of passageways.
the temple was built using
Most of the temples inside walls are whitewashed, but there are some
one brick for every 10,000
original murals near the west entrance.
used in constructing the
The temple is located near the southeastern corner of the old city
main temple.
wall. A couple of hundred metres south, you can see a fragment of the
wall on either side of the road, where you can climb up on the brick
for a view.
SHWEGUGYI
ergUkI"
Built by Alaungsithu in 1131, this smaller but elegant pahto (temple or
shrine), 200m north of Thatbyinnyu, is an example of the Middle period,
a transition in architectural style from the dark and cloistered to the airy
and light. Its name means Great Golden Cave, and its corncob sikhara
is a scaled-down version of the one at Ananda (p300), while its reach
marks a move towards verticality.
Inside youll find fine stucco carvings, a teak Buddha and stone slabs (in
Pali) that retell its history, including that it took just seven months to build.
Missing from the scripts are details of its builders demise Alaungsithus
son brought his sick father here in 1163 to smother him to death.
www.lonelyplanet.com O L D B A G A N Pi t a k a Ta i k 299
PITAKA TAIK
pi$kt'tiuk'
Following the sacking of Thaton, King Anawrahta carted off some 30
elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures and built this library (just north-
east of Shwegugyi) to house them in 1058. The square design follows
the basic Early Bagan gu (cave temple) plan, perfect for the preserva-
tion of light-sensitive palm-leaf scriptures. The old library is notable
for the perforated stone windows, each carved from single stone slabs,
and the plaster carvings on the roof, which are in imitation of Burmese
woodcarvings.
PALACE SITES
At research time, construction of Anawrahtas palace replica was un-
derway on the north side of the road to Nyaung U, a couple of hundred
metres northeast of Shwegugyi. Its likely to be open during your visit
(possibly for an extra fee, as a Yangon entrepreneur is footing the bill).
Just east, on the other side of the road, is the original site of Anawrahtas
palace, currently closed off by barbed wire and under excavation by the
Department of Archaeology.
THARABA GATE
srp:tx:"
The former eastern entrance to the walled city is 100m east of the origi-
nal palace site. The still-impressive Tharaba Gate (aka Sarabha Gate)
squeezes the road to Nyaung U. The ruins are the best preserved remains
of the 9th-century wall, and the only gate still standing. Traces of old
stucco can still be seen on the gateway.
The gate is guarded by highly revered brother and sister nat, the male
(Lord Handsome) on the right, the female (Lady Golden Face) on the left.
In their human histories, the siblings died in a fire, so worshippers offer
the images flowers and water, rather than candles or incense.
Just east, the road passes over the one-time wall-surrounding moat.
(There are several restaurants 200m east.)
MAHABODHI PAYA
mh;eb;/i.ur;"
Unlike any other Bagan temple, this monument, located on the north
side of the main road 350m west of the gate, is modelled after the fa- The Mahabodhi Paya
mous Mahabodhi temple in Bodhgaya, India, which commemorates the features an unusual
spot where the Buddha attained enlightenment. Built during the reign pyramidal spire.
of Nantaungmya in 1215, the spire is richly coated in niches enclosing
seated Buddha figures, rising from a square block. The stairway to the
top is closed to visitors.
Inside is a modern makeover with tile floor and carpet. The ruined
buildings just north feature some original glazed painting fragments.
BUPAYA
bU".ur;"
Right on the bank of the Ayeyarwady (reached from the Nyaung U road,
about 200m east of the Mahabodhi Paya), this cylindrical Pyu-style stupa
is said to date further back than any Bagan temple. Locals claim it dates
to the 3rd century; most likely it was erected around the same time as the
city walls (around 850). Its named for bu (gourd). Whats seen now a
gold stupa above a row of crenulated terraces leading down to the water
is a complete reconstruction, however; the 1975 earthquake demolished
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THE SUNS FALLING! THE SUNS FALLING!

Each dusk at Bagan can see a great sunset chase, with scurrying tourists carrying cameras up
pagoda stairways to watch the Bagan sprawl turn all shades of tangerine, lavender and rust.
Many leave once the sun dips behind the mountains, though colours only start their show at
that point. By all means do witness the scene, from different spots, short and tall. Some temples
teem with tourists, while hundreds of lesser-known ones (including dozens and dozens of good
choices not in this section) stand empty.
Yeah, but whats the best place to witness sunsets and sunrises? Well, Dhammayangyi Pahto
(p303) is the long-standing favourite at dusk; east-facing Mingalazedi (p304) at dawn. Near Bagans
belly, Buledi (p302) is a newcomer alternative favourite, while another belly-spot, Pyathada Paya
(p304), has a sprawling viewing deck, sometimes empty.
Some Bagan repeat-visitors insist its all a myth that its is as good to watch from an un-
named, two-storey temple as at Dhammayangyi. You decide.
the original. If you want to sit on the benches facing the water, please
dont prop up your feet on the wall, as some travellers do.
Off the road to the southeast is the Pebinkyaung Paya, a 12th-century
pagoda built in a unique Sinhalese style.
NORTH PLAIN
The bulk of Bagan temples are out there in the vast, ruin-filled plains
between Nyaung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan. This broad area skinny
on a map runs between the Old Bagan walls and Nyaung U, and (mostly)
between the two roads that connect the two. Sights are ordered (more or
less) west to east.
ANANDA PAHTO
a;nN;puqiu"
If you see only a temple or two and darn you for limiting yourself make
it to Ananda, one of the finest, largest, best-preserved and most revered
of all Bagan temples. The terraced temple, with a corncob golden hti tow-
ering 52m high, features four more gilded spires at the ends of a raised
square platform. Youll see it shimmering from all over the plain.
Like many paya around Its roughly 450m east of Thatbyinnyu, 500m north of Shwesandaw
Bagan, the Ananda Pahto and 1km northwest of Dhammayangyi Pahto. Most visitors access it
took a huge hit from the often through the sea of vendors from the northern side.
1975 earthquake, but has Thought to have been built between 1090 and 1105 by King Kyanzit-
been totally restored. tha, this perfectly proportioned temple heralds the stylistic end of the
Early Bagan period and the beginning of the Middle period. In 1990, on
its 900th anniversary, the temple spires were gilded. The remainder of
the temple exterior is whitewashed from time to time.
The central square measures 53m along each side. Upper floors are
closed to visitors. The entranceways make the structure a perfect Greek
cross; each entrance is crowned with a stupa finial. The base and the ter-
races are decorated with 554 glazed tiles showing Jataka scenes, thought
to be derived from Mon texts. Huge carved teak doors separate interior
halls from cross passages on all four sides.
Facing outward from the centre of the cube are four 9.5m standing
Buddha statues. Only the Bagan-style images facing north and south are
original; both display the dhammachakka mudra (a hand position sym-
bolising the Buddha teaching his first sermon). The other two images are
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replacements for figures destroyed by fire in the 1600s. All four have bodies
of solid teak, though guides may claim the southern image is made of a
bronze alloy. Guides like to point out that if you stand by the donation box
in front of the original southern Buddha, his face looks sad, while from a
distance he tends to look mirthful.
The western and eastern standing Buddha images are done in the later
Konbaung, or Mandalay, style. If looked at from the right angle, the two
lions at the eastern side resemble an ogre. A small, nutlike sphere held
between the thumb and middle finger of the east-facing image is said to
resemble a herbal pill, and may represent the Buddha offering dhamma
(Buddhist teachings) as a cure for suffering. Both arms hang at the im-
ages sides with hands outstretched, a mudra (hand position) unknown
to traditional Buddhist sculpture outside this temple. On the full moon of
The west-facing Buddha features the abhaya mudra (the hands out- Pyatho (December/
stretched, in the gesture of no fear). At its feet sit two life-sized lacquer January), a huge paya
statues, said to represent King Kyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon pwe (paya festival)
monk who initiated the king into Theravada Buddhism. Inside the west- attracts thousands to
ern portico are two Buddha footprint symbols on pedestals. Ananda. Up to 1000
The British built a brick museum nearby in 1904, now used as a stor- monks chant day and
age facility. Around it stand a few ordination markers, inscribed stellae night during the three
and Buddha images. days of the festival.
ANANDA OK KYAUNG
a;nN;aut'ekY;='"
Just west of Anandas northern entry, this small vihara (sanctuary or
chapel) features some detailed 18th-century murals bursting with bright
red and green, showing details of everyday life from the Bagan period.
In the southeast corner, you can see Portuguese traders engaged in
trade. Built in 1137, the temples name means Ananda Brick Monastery.
Usually the door is unlocked; ask at Ananda Pahto for the keymaster
if not.
UPALI THEIN
wp:lisim'
Just north of the BaganNyaung U Rd, almost midway to Nyaung U, this
mid-13th century ordination hall, houses some brightly painted frescoes
depicting big scenes on the walls and ceilings from the late 17th or early
18th century. Sadly many pieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. The
building, named for a well-known monk from the 13th century, is often
locked to protect the art. The roof battlements imitate Burmese wooden
architecture, and a small centre spire rises from the rooftop.
HTILOMINLO PAHTO
qI"lium='"liupuqiu"
Across the road from Upali Thein, this 46m-high temple was built by
King Nantaungmya in 1218. Nantaungmya erected the temple on this
THE KEYMASTER
During peak season, from October to April, many of the lesser temples have attendants hanging
about to unlock the doors and maybe sell a postcard or two. Some do not, and the keymaster
needs to be tracked down. Its usually not hard. Often someone with a ring full of keys lurks in
the area. Ask any vendor and youre likely to get the missing keys within a few minutes. A little
bit of tea money is appreciated.
302 C E N T R A L P L A I N www.lonelyplanet.com
TOP FIVE MURALS

Much of Bagan is also famous for the fabulous murals that are found on the walls inside. These
are our favourites.
Upali Thein (p301) Brightly painted frescoes from the late 17th or early 18th century.
Nandamannya (p309) Vaguely Chinese or Tibetan-looking murals.
Payathonzu (p308) Similar to the murals at Nandamannya.
Ananda Ok Kyaung (p301) Paintings depict everday scenes from the Bagan period.
Abeyadana (p306) Has figures of Bodhisattvas and Hindu deities.
spot because it was here that he was chosen (by a leaning umbrella), from
among five brothers, to be the crown prince.
Its probably most impressive from outside. Its terraced design, similar
Much of the mural work to Sulamani Pahto (p304), is based on a 42m-square base. Have a walk-
at Bagan is thought to around to take in the fragments of the original fine plaster carvings,
be similar to how the glazed sandstone decorations and nicely carved reliefs on the doorways.
interiors of Buddhist Inside are four Buddhas on the lower and upper floors, though the
temples in northeastern stairways are closed. Traces of old murals are also still visible. There are
India must have appeared plenty of vendors here.
before their destruction
at the hands of Muslim BULEDI
invaders. bU"ly'sI"
Free from tourists and postcard vendors not long ago, this temple with
steep stairs leading to a narrow terrace around the stupa has become
something of an alternative sunset spot. Its about 600m south of the
Htilominlo, across Anawrahta Rd. Its also known as Temple 394.
GUBYAUKNGE
gUep;k'=y'
Off Anawrahta Rd, about 1.5km east of Htilominlo, this Early Bagan
period temple has some excellent stucco carvings on the outside walls
(particularly on the north side) and some original paintings visible inside.
WETKYI-IN-GUBYAUKGYI
0k'kI"a='"gUep;k''kI"
Just west of Nyaung U, and about 100m or so east of Gubyauknge, this
off-the-main-circuit, detailed 13th-century temple has an Indian-style
spire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in Old Bagan. It is interesting for the
fine frescoes of scenes from the Jataka, but unfortunately, in 1899 a Ger-
man collector came by and surreptitiously removed many of the panels
on which the frescoes were painted. Those that remain in the entry are
in great shape. Steps inside lead to four Buddha images and you can see
Hindu figures engraved on the spire.
CENTRAL PLAIN
In this vast plain (roughly south of Anawrahta Rd between New Bagan and
Nyaung U), its possible to stumble into village life and goat herds just 2km
from the paved roads. Some corners, unsurprisingly, are well away from the
normal package-tour stops, while a few are must-sees for all. Some temples
are locked, but a keymaster should be in the area; ask around. This list
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features a handful of well-worthy sites running west to east (towards the

clearly visible Bagan Tower construction site, near Nyaung U).
SHWESANDAW PAYA
erzet;'.ur;"
Bagans most famous sunset pagoda, the Shwesandaw is the graceful
white pyramid-style pagoda with steps leading past five terraces to the
circular stupa top; its located roughly midway between Thatbyinnyu and
Dhammayangyi. Its roomy top terrace teems with camera-toting travel-
lers before sunset and offers a deserving full 360-degree look of Bagan.
If you go during the day, youre likely to be alone.
Following his conquest of Thaton in 1057, King Anawrahta built this
at the centre of his newly empowered kingdom. The terraces once bore The Shwesandaw Paya,
terracotta plaques showing scenes from the Jataka, but traces of these, along with Mingalazedi
and of other sculptures, were covered by rather heavy-handed renova- Paya, now offers the
tions. The now-gilded zedi bell rises from two octagonal bases, which highest accessible
top the five square terraces. This was the first monument at Bagan to points within the Bagan
feature stairways leading from the square-bottom terraces to the round archaeological zone.
base of the stupa itself. This stupa supposedly enshrines a Buddha hair
relic, brought back from Thaton. Only the south entrance doesnt have
handrails leading up the steep steps.
The hti, which was toppled by the earthquake, can still be seen lying
on the south side of the paya compound. A new one was fitted soon after
the quake.
About 150m north stands Lawkahteikpan Pahto a small but inter-
esting Middle-period gu containing excellent frescoes and inscriptions
in both Burmese and Mon. Its usually locked ask at Shwesandaw for
the keymaster.
DHAMMAYANGYI PAHTO
/mrkI"puqiu"
Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive walled 12th-century temple
(about 500m southeast of Shwesandaw) has a similar plan to Ananda;
with projecting porticoes and receding terraces, though its sikhara is
reduced to a stub nowadays. It is generally thought that it was commis- The Dhammayangyi
sioned by Narathu (who was assassinated in 1170), though some have Pahto is generally
attributed the building to the earlier reign of Alaungsithu. ascribed to Narathu (who
Like Ananda, there are two encircling ambulatories, but the inner one was assassinated by
is closed off, intentionally filled by brick rubble centuries ago. No-one foreign agents some
is sure why, but many believe it was payback to the ruthless king who debate whether from Sri
mandated the mortarless brickwork fit together so tightly that even a pin Lanka or India), much to
couldnt pass between any two bricks. Walking around the outer ambu- the delight, apparently,
latory, under ceilings so high up you can only hear the squeaks of bats of the slaves working on
circling in the dark, you can see some intact stucco reliefs and paintings, this monster.
suggesting the work had been completed. The mystery goes on.
Three out of the four Buddha sanctums were also filled with bricks.
The remaining western shrine features two original side-by-side images
of Gautama and Maitreya, the historical and future Buddhas (its the
only Bagan site with two side-by-side Buddhas). Perhaps someday, when
Myanmars archaeological department, or Unesco or some other party,
clears out all the brick rubble, one of the great architectural mysteries of
Bagan will be solved.
The top terraces are closed to visitors, though there are some nooks
that some vendors lead visitors to (slightly illegally).
304 MY I N K A B A A R E A M i n g a l a z e d i www.lonelyplanet.com
SULAMANI PAHTO
cUL;m,ipuqiu"
About 1km east of Dhammayangyi, this broad two-storey temple is one
of Bagans most attractive, with lush grounds (and a fair share of vendors)
behind the surrounding walls. Its a prime example of later, more sophis-
ticated temple styles, with better internal lighting. This temple, known
As fine as Paul Strachans as the Crowning Jewel, was constructed around 1181 by Narapatisithu.
work is (see p293), one Combining the horizontal planes of the Early period with the vertical lines
flaw of his book was to of the Middle, the receding terraces create a pyramid effect. The brickwork
ask why the reclining throughout is considered some of the best in Bagan. The gilded sikhara is a
Buddha next to Shwe- reconstruction; the original was destroyed in the 1975 earthquake. Stupas
sandow Paya couldnt stand at the corners of each terrace, and a high wall, fitted with elaborate
have been left lying on gateways at each cardinal point, encloses the entire complex. The interior
its left side rather than face of the wall was once lined with 100 monastic cells, a feature unique
the right. To have done among Bagans ancient monasteries.
this, though, would have Carved stucco on mouldings, pediments and pilasters represents some
violated classical Bud- of Bagans finest ornamental work and is in fairly good condition. Glazed
dhist iconagraphy. plaques around the base and terraces are also still visible.
Buddha images face the four directions from the ground floor; the
image at the main eastern entrance sits in a recess built into the wall.
The interior passage around the base is painted with quite big frescoes
from the Konbaung period, and there are traces of earlier frescoes. The
stairways to the top are closed.
A walled enclosure in the north of the compound contains the remains
of Sulamani Kyaung. A water tank in the compound is thought to be the
only original Bagan reservoir still in use by local residents.
THABEIK HMAUK
spit'emH;k'
Facing Sulamani from 150m east, this sikhara-topped temple looks like
a smaller version of Sulamani, but is (for the time being) blissfully free
of visitors or vendors. Much of its interiors were damaged by the 1975
earthquake, but there are multiple stairways up to a wrap-around medi-
tation chamber with little light (and a few bats). There are two outside
terraces, reached by narrow stairs, with superb views.
PYATHADA PAYA
pSd:".ur;"
About 750m southeast of Sulamani, reached by dirt roads that sometimes
get obscured in goat fields, this impressive pagoda is a superb sunset-
viewing spot, with a giant open terrace Bagans largest atop the
steps, and another small deck further up. Many days, visitors have it to
themselves; on others a lone group may be here.
MYINKABA AREA
m='"kp:
The sites north and south of Myinkaba village are all just off the main
road and easy to access. These are listed in order from north to south.
MINGALAZEDI
mgl;ectI
Close to the riverbank, towards Myinkaba from the Thiripyitsaya Sakura
Hotel, Mingalazedi Paya (Blessing Stupa; aka Sunrise Pagoda) is a hot
www.lonelyplanet.com MY I N K A B A A R E A G u b y a u k g y i 305
spot for sunrise (and sunset too): it faces the full Bagan plain to the east.
Its noted also for its enormous bell-like dome, reached by steep stairs up
three receding terraces, and for the beautiful glazed Jataka tiles around
each terrace. Although many Jataka have been damaged or stolen, there The Mingalazedi Paya
are still 561 of the 1061 originals left. The smaller square building in the represents the final
zedi grounds is one of the few Tripitaka libraries made of brick. flowering of Bagans
The Mingalazedi is the very last of the large Late-period monuments. architectural outburst.
It was built from 1268 to 1274 by Narathihapati, who tempted fate (the
story goes) by overlooking a prophecy that Bagan would fall if the pagoda
was ever finished. Ten years after it was, Mongols invaded and Bagans
prominence fell.
GUBYAUKGYI
gUep;k''kI"
Situated just to the left of the road as you enter Myinkaba, Gubyaukgyi
(Great Painted Cave Temple) sees a lot of visitors (and vendors) during
peak season for its well-preserved, richly coloured paintings inside. These
are thought to date from the temples original construction in 1113, when
Kyanzitthas son Rajakumar built it following his fathers death. In Indian
style, the monument consists of a large vestibule attached to a smaller
antechamber. The fine stuccowork on its exterior walls is in particularly
good condition.
Perforated, Pyu-style windows means youll need a powerful torch to
see the ceiling paintings clearly. If its locked off-season, ask in the village
for the keymaster.
Next to the monument stands the gilded Myazedi (Emerald Stupa). A
four-sided pillar in a cage between the two monuments bears an inscrip-
tion consecrating Gubyaukgyi and written in four languages Pyu, Mon,
Old Burmese and Pali. Its linguistic and historical significance is great,
since it establishes the Pyu as an important cultural influence in early
Bagan and relates the chronology of the Bagan kings.
MANUHA PAYA
mnUh;.ur;" Legend says that
In Myinkaba village, about 500m south of Gubyaukgyi, stands this active Manuha, the captured
(and rather modern-looking) pagoda, named after the Mon king from Mon king, built the
Thaton, who was held captive here by King Anawrahta. Bagan temple that bears
In the front of the building are three seated Buddhas; in the back is a his name in 1059, and
huge reclining Buddha. All seem too large for their enclosures supposedly the design represents
representing the stress and discomfort the king had to endure. However, his displeasure with
these features are not unique in Bagan. captivity.
It should be pointed out that conquerors of the 11th century werent
in the habit of sparing the lives of leaders even for a captive life. Aung
San Suu Kyi, in fact, described the sympathetic account of Manuha [as]
one of the most admirable parts of Burmese historyunstinting respect
for a noble enemy.
It is said that only the reclining Buddha, in the act of entering parinib-
bana (final passing away), has a smile on its face, showing that for
Manuha, only death was a release from his suffering. But if you climb to
the top of this paya via the stairs in the back (ask for keys if its locked),
you can then see the face of the sitting Buddha through a window from
up here youll realise that the gigantic face, so grim from below, has an
equally gigantic smile.
An outdoor corner of the temple compound is dedicated to Mt Popas
presiding nat, Mae Wanna and her sons Min Lay and Min Gyi. Devotees
306 MY I N K A B A A R E A N a n Pa y a www.lonelyplanet.com
of Manuha Paya celebrate a large paya pwe on the full moon of Tabaung
(February/March).
NAN PAYA
nn'".ur;"
Just south of the Manuha Paya by dirt road, this shrine is said to have
been used as Manuhas prison, although there is little evidence support-
ing the legend. In this story the shrine was originally Hindu, and captors
thought using it as a prison would be easier than converting it to a Bud-
Recent research suggests dhist temple. Its worth visiting for its interior masonry work sandstone
that the Nan Paya was block facings over a brick core, certainly some of Bagans finest detailed
constructed by Manuhas sculpture. Perforated stone windows are typical of earlier Bagan architec-
grandnephew in the late ture in fact it was probably Bagans first gu-style shrine.
11th century. In the central sanctuary the four stone pillars have finely carved sand-
stone bas-relief figures of three-faced Brahma. The creator deity is hold-
ing lotus flowers, thought to be offerings to a freestanding Buddha image
once situated in the shrines centre, a theory that dispels the idea that this
was ever a Hindu shrine. The sides of the pillars feature ogrelike kala-
ate heads with open mouths streaming with flowers. Legend goes that
Shiva employed such creatures to protect temples, but they proved too
ferocious; so Shiva tricked them into eating their bodies, then fed them
flowers to keep their minds off snacking on worshippers. In the centre
of the four pillars is an altar, on which once stood a standing Buddha or
(some locals believe) a Hindu god.
Ask at Manuha if the temple is locked.
ABEYADANA PAHTO
ap:y'rtn;puqiu"
About 400m south of the Manuha, this 11th-century temple with a
Sinhalese-style stupa was supposedly built by Kyanzitthas Bengali wife
Abeyadana, who waited for him here as he hid for his life from his
predecessor King Sawlu. Its famed for its original frescoes, which were
cleaned in recent years by Unesco staff. With a torch, you can make out
many figures that Abeyadana, believed to be a Mahayanist, would likely
have asked for: Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, and Hindu deities
(Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and Indra).
The inner shrine contains a large, brick, seated Buddha (partly re-
stored); surrounding walls are lined with niches, most now empty. Inside
the front wall are many Jataka scenes.
Ask at the caretakers house to the south if its locked.
NAGAYON
ng:"Tu
Slightly south of Abeyadana and across the road, this elegant and well-
preserved temple was built by Kyanzittha. The main Buddha image
is twice life size and shelters under the hood of a huge naga (dragon
serpent). This reflects the legend that Kyanzittha built the temple on
the spot where he was sheltered while fleeing from his angry brother
and predecessor Sawlu an activity he had to indulge in on more than
one occasion.
The outer, dark corridor has many niches with images of the earlier
Buddhas. Paintings also decorate the corridor walls. The central shrine
has two smaller standing Buddhas as well as the large one. Unfortu-
nately the walls have been whitewashed, obscuring any traces of possible
murals.
www.lonelyplanet.com NEW BAGAN ARE A S einnyet Nyima Paya & S einnyet Ama Pa hto 307
The temple itself with corncob sikhara, which some believe to be the
Ananda prototype can be climbed via tight stairs.
Usually a keymaster is around to unlock the door.
SOMINGYI KYAUNG
ciu"m='"kI"ekY;='"
Named after the lady who supposedly sponsored its construction, this
typical Late Bagan brick monastery (about 200m south of Nagayon) is
thought to have been built in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu to the
south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many brick monasteries in Bagan
were single-block structures; Somingyi is unique in that it has monastic
cells clustered around a courtyard.
NEW BAGAN AREA

pugDmuioc''
Sights are a little scarcer heading south of New Bagan (Bagan Nyothit),
towards the outskirts of the Bagan area.
SEINNYET NYIMA PAYA & SEINNYET AMA PAHTO

cim'"Mk'Mim NH=' cim'"Mk'ampuqiu"
This stupa and shrine stand side by side (about 250m north of New
Bagan) and are traditionally assigned to Queen Seinnyet in the 11th
century, although the architecture clearly points to a period two centu-
ries later. The zedi rests on three terraces and is topped by a beautiful
stylised umbrella.
LAWKANANDA PAYA
el;knN;.ur;"
At the height of Bagans power, boats from the Mon region, Rakhaing
(Arakan) and even Sri Lanka would anchor by this riverside pagoda
(about 250m southeast of the New Bagan crossroads a sign in Burmese
points the way) with its distinctive elongated cylindrical dome. It was
built in 1059 by Anawrahta. It is still used as an everyday place of worship
and is thought to house an important Buddha tooth replica. There are lots
of benches for wide-open views of the Ayeyarwady, but its sometimes
hard to enjoy hassle-free.
ASHE (EAST ) & ANAUK (WEST ) PETLEIK PAYA

aerH NH=' aen;k' fk'lip'.ur;"
Just inland to the northeast from Lawkananda Kyaung are the excavated
remains of these twin 11th-century paya. Found in 1905, the lower parts
of the pagodas are ho-hum from the outside but feature hundreds of If you climb up the
terracotta Jataka lining the vaulted corridors (particularly impressive in staircase of the Sittana
Anauk Petleik Paya). A keymaster usually appears to unlock the door and Paya you will spot Mt
turn on the fluorescent lights. Popa to the southeast.
SITTANA PAYA
About 1km further south, this large, 13th-century bell-shaped stupa is
New Bagans most impressive structure. Built by Htilominlo, its set on
four square terraces, each fronted by a standing Buddha image in brick
and stucco. A rather rickety stairway leads up the stupas southern side,
where you can circle the structure on the terraces. At the southwestern
corner is a chamber; you can climb up the wall and then down into the
308 S O U T H P L A I N D h a m m a y a z i k a Pa y a www.lonelyplanet.com
interior, but have a torch handy. Usually somebody is around to show

you the spot.
SOUTH PLAIN
This rural area, along Bagans southern reaches, follows the main road
between New Bagan and the Nyaung U airport. It passes Pwasaw and
Minnanthu villages on the way. Other than a few places, such as Paya-
thonzu, most sights see few tourists. Many horse-cart drivers will take in
the cluster of sights north of Minnanthu and go via dirt paths towards
Central Plain sights, such as Sulamani Pahto (p304). Views west from
some temples here rival any of Bagans in terms of scope of the site.
The following sites are listed in order from west to east.
Questions such as You
want to buy painting? DHAMMAYAZIKA PAYA
may disturb your study of /mr;jik.ur;"
the 800-year-old paintings About 3.5km east of the New Bagan crossroads, and standing north of
at Payathonzu. the main road, this pentagonal zedi is similar to the Shwezigon (opposite)
but with a more unusual design. Set in the south-central end of Bagan, it
also has lovely views from its highest terrace.
Now set among lush garden grounds with a gilded bell, the Dham-
mayazika dates from 1196. Apparently the stupa is haunted by the general
who started its construction (before being finished by Narapatisithu); its
said the general has appeared in many photos taken at the site, including
one of recent government officials!
An outer wall has five gateways. Up top, five small temples, each con-
taining a Buddha image, encircle the terraces; some of them bear interior
murals added during the Konbaung era.
Its possible, with perseverance, to cycle the thrilling dirt roads here
from Dhammayangyi Pahto, 2km north.
LEIMYETHNA PAHTO
el"mYk'nH;.ur;"
Built in 1222, this east-facing, whitewashed temple near Minnanthu vil-
lage (about 3km east of Dhammayazika on the north side of the road)
stands on a raised platform and has interior walls decorated with well-
preserved frescoes. It is topped by a gilded Indian-style spire like that on
Ananda. The jarlike structures out front were pillars of a building toppled
by the 1975 earthquake.
TAYOK PYE PAYA

tTut'ep".ur;"
A couple of hundred metres north of Leimyethna by dirt road, this spired
temple gets attention for the views from its upper reaches.
PAYATHONZU
.ur;"ou"z
Across the main road from Tayok, this complex of three interconnected
shrines (the name means Three Stupas) is a highlight for visitors who
want to see 13th-century murals close up. It was abandoned shortly be-
fore its construction was complete possibly due to the invasion of Kub-
lai Khan. Dating to the late 13th century, each square cubicle is topped by
a fat sikhara; a similar structure appears only at Salay (p279). The design
is remarkably similar to Khmer Buddhist ruins in Thailand.
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You enter the middle shrine. To the right (south) are whitewashed
walls, but some Pali writing is still visible. The other two shrines (par-
ticularly the northernmost one) are home to lovely, vaguely Chinese- or
Tibetan-looking, mural paintings that contain Bodhisattva figures.
Whether these indicate possible Mahayana or Tantric influence is a hotly
debated issue among art historians.
The three-shrine design hints at links with the Hindu Trimurti (triad)
of Vishnu, Shiva and Brahma, a triumvirate also associated with Tantric
Buddhism. One might just as easily say it represents the Triple Gems of
Buddhism (Buddha, dhamma and sangha), except that such a design is
uncommon in Asian Buddhist archaeology, although it does appear in
the Hindu shrines of India and Nepal.
During peak season the doors will be unlocked.
THAMBULA PAHTO
smBlpuqiu"
This square temple, just north of Payathonzu, is decorated with faded
Jataka frescoes and was built in 1255 by Thambula, the wife of King
Uzana. Its doors were kept locked at research time, but you can see a boat
race along the eastern wall if looking in from the southern entrance.
NANDAMANNYA PAHTO
nN;mM;
Dating from the mid-13th century, this small, single-chambered temple
has very fine frescoes and a ruined, seated Buddha image. Its about
200m north of Thambula; a sign leads down a short dirt road. (Its the
one to the right.)
Nandamannya earns its repuation by its mural of the Temptation of
Mara, in which nubile young females (vainly) attempt to distract the
Buddha from the meditation session that led to his enlightenment. The
undressed nature of the depicted females shocked French epigraphist
Charles Duroiselle, who wrote in 1916 that they were so vulgarly erotic
and revolting that they can neither be reproduced or described. Times
change: the topless ladies can be seen, particularly on the back left wall.
The murals similarity with those at Payathonzu has led some art his-
torians to suggest they were painted by the same hand. The design of the
Just behind the temple is the Kyat Kan Kyaung, a working under- bell-shaped Shwezigon
ground monastery dating from the 11th century. Mats on the tunnel Paya became a virtual
floors are used for meditation. Apparently a monk died during medita- proto type for all stupas
tion in recent years and was left for days everyone thought he was still in Myanmar.
meditating.
NYAUNG U AREA
e;='wI"
The main site in this area is the superb Shwezigon Paya.
SHWEZIGON PAYA
ercM'"xu.ur;"
At the west end of Nyaung U, this beautiful zedi was started by Anaw-
rahta but not completed until the reign of Kyanzittha. The latter is
thought to have built his palace nearby. Supposedly, the Shwezigon was
built to enshrine one of the four replicas of the Buddha tooth in Kandy,
Sri Lanka, and to mark the northern edge of the city. The other three
310 N YAU N G U A R E A K y a n z i t t h a U m i n www.lonelyplanet.com
tooth replicas went to Lawkananda (p307), a smaller stupa to the south;

to Tan Kyi, a stupa on the western bank of the Ayeyarwady; and to Tuyan
Taung, a stupa on the summit of a hill 32km to the east.
The stupas graceful bell shape became a prototype for virtually all later
stupas over Myanmar. The gilded zedi lit up impressively at dusk sits
on three rising terraces. Enamelled plaques in panels around the base of
the zedi illustrate scenes from the Jataka. At the cardinal points, facing
the terrace stairways, are four shrines, each of which houses a 4m-high
bronze standing Buddha. Gupta-inspired and cast in 1102, these figures
are Bagans largest surviving bronze Buddhas. Their left hands exhibit
the vitarka (exposition) mudra while the right hands are held palms out-
wards, fingers straight up, portraying the gesture of abhaya (no fear).
A 10cm circular indentation in a stone slab, before the eastern steps
up, was filled with water to allow former Burmese monarchs to look at
the reflection of the hti without tipping their heads backwards (which
might have caused them to lose their crowns). For a few kyat visitors
The 12th-century original can view the bejewelled hti through a telescope reserved for that purpose.
nat (spirit) figures of the Surrounding the zedi are clusters of zayat (rest houses) and shrines, some
Shwezigon were spirited of them old, others more modern, though none of them is original.
away by a collector In addition to ranking as one of the oldest stupas in Bagan, Shwezigon
and are now reportedly is known as the site where the 37 pre-Buddhist nat were first officially
somewhere in Italy. endorsed by the Bamar monarchy. To the southeast of the platform, a
yellow compound called 37 Nats (in English) features figures of the 37
nat. Ask around if the compound is locked. At one end stands an original
stone figure of Thagyamin, king of the nat and a direct appropriation of
the Hindu god Indra. This is the oldest known freestanding Thagyamin
figure in Myanmar.
KYANZITTHA UMIN
kYn'cc's;"wm='
Although officially credited to Kyanzittha, this cave temple may actu-
ally date back to Anawrahta. Built into a cliff face 250m southwest of
Shwezigon, the long, dimly lit corridors are decorated with frescoes, some
of which are thought to have been painted by Bagans Tartar invaders
during the period of the Mongol occupation after 1287. An attendant
usually will greet you with a torch to borrow and keys to unlock the
doors. Its very quiet in there, and you can actually see the 800-year-old
brush strokes.
NORTH OF NYAUNG U
From the Nyaung U jetty, you can negotiate a fun boat trip to see three
temples just off the Ayeyarwady riverbank. A kilometre north, you can
find the 13th-century Thetkyamuni, with a few murals inside (hard to
make out) and tight, dark steps leading up to a small terrace up top. On
the hill nearby is the same-era Kondawgyi Pahto, with better preserved
murals and views from the surrounding platform.
Another kilometre or so north is the 11th- and 12th-century Kyauk
Gu Ohnmin cave temple, built in the side of a ravine. The inside tunnels
lead about 50m to blocked-off rubble; some locals say the tunnel was
intended to go 18km. You can climb on top of the temple from the new
steps to the right.
These sights are accessible, with more difficulty, by road. A boat trip
takes about two or three hours, and your driver will show you the tem-
ples. It costs about K3000 or K4000 for three or four people.
www.lonelyplanet.com 311
311
Western Myanmar
Stretching 600km head to toe, slender Rakhaing (Arakan) State makes up the bulk of this
enigmatic area of Myanmar that boasts both the countrys finest midrange beach resort
and the biggest ancient city apart from Bagan. Just inland are the way-remote, restricted-to-
travellers areas of Chin State where locals are more linked with the peoples and traditions
of neighbouring Bangladesh than with those of Myanmar. The whole area is cut off from
the Ayeyarwady River and central plain of Myanmar by the impressive Rakhaing Yoma
(Arakan Mountain Range), meaning limited road connections are rather adventurous to
navigate. Historically, locals here have, unsurprisingly, looked more to the sea than inland
to the Myanmar people. And it still feels a little that way.
In Ngapali Beach increasing numbers of travellers are flying in to plop onto a quiet patch
of the 3km stretch of palm-backed sand on the turquoise Bay of Bengal. Further north,
reached via the port town of Sittwe, Mrauk U is the countrys second-most-impressive ar-
W E S T E R N M YA N M A R
chaeological site after Bagan. Here angular hillocks are dotted with half-a-millennium-old
temples amid a sprawling thatched-hut village.
The Rakhaing people add a different slant to any Myanmar trip. Conversations are often
more direct and open than elsewhere, and are usually peppered with endearing, ever-proud
(sometimes exaggerated) claims of how their ancestors instilled the language and Buddhist
religion in Myanmar. And then theres the food just-caught squid or tiger prawns, plus
spicier curries and noodles which is just better than most of the food around the country.
HIGHLIGHTS
Ngapali Beach (p314) is Myanmars best sun

spot a 3km palm-backed white-sand stretch
facing the Bay of Bengal Chin
State
The food! Extra spice in the same ol curries puts
Ngapalis fresh seafood (p316) among Mahamuni
Paya
Myanmars tastiest meals Mrauk U
The ancient Rakhaing capital of Mrauk U (p322)

rewards equally as a peaceful village (with cool
ruins) and a remarkable temple-filled site
The Mahamuni Paya (p328) is the original site of
the Mahamuni Buddha (now, er, in Mandalay)
Chin State (p328) teems with birds, mountain Ngapali Beach
climbs and traditional cultures only parts of it
have been opened up to foreigners
312 W E S T E R N MYA N MA R Pe o p l e www.lonelyplanet.com
0 50 km
WESTERN MYANMAR 0 30 miles
Hakha Shwebo
Ch
in d
win Budalin
BANGLADESH SAGAING Ayadaw
Ri
ver
DIVISION
Gangaw Monywa
Lotaw
Chaung U
CHIN STATE
Tilin
Myaing
Yesagyo
Matupi
Myingyan
ver Pauk
Lemyo Ri
Aungthabye Paletwa
Sami Mindat Pakokku MANDALAY
Mayu Ri
Pindawa DIVISION
Taungbyo
Mt Victoria Nyaung U
Bagan
ver
Teknat Buthidaung Mt Popa

Meiktila
Kyauktaw Mahamuni Kyaukpadaung
Maungdaw
Kala
Chauk
Teinnyo
Restricte
1
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Wethali (Vesali) 2
River
Mrauk U
Kodangauk
Dalet
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River
Myaungbwe Sidoktaya Salin

Yenangyaung
Donpauk Ponnagyun Minbya
RAKHAING
Boister Pauktaw STATE
Kyun Minbu Magwe

Sittwe Thobagwin Ngape
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Thandwe
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Ngapali Beach (Sandoway) Nattalin

dy
a
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Kyeinthali Ky Minhla
e AYEYARWADY Sitkwin
Rivintal DIVISION
er i
Letpandon
INDIAN OCEAN Kanthaya
To Yakyi
(Yegyi) Hinthada
(35km) Gwa
PEOPLE by the Rohingya insurgents)? Although

The Rakhaing the first inhabitants of the region were a
Much of western Myanmar is home to the dark-skinned Negrito tribe known as the
fascinating Rakhaing ethnic group, which Bilu, later migrants from the eastern Indian
is in itself a controversial topic are the subcontinent developed the first Hindu-
Rakhaing actually Bamar (Burmans) with Buddhist kingdoms in Myanmar before
Indian blood, Indians with Bamar charac- the first Christian millennium. These king-
teristics or a separate race (as is claimed doms flourished before the invasion of the
www.lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N MYA N MA R C l i m a t e 313
Tibeto-Burmans from the north and east Currently, Chin State has the largest pro-
in the 9th and 18th centuries. The current portion of animists of any state in Myanmar,
inhabitants of the state may thus be mixed but the Zo culture is fast disappearing in the
descendants of all three groups: Bilu, Ben- face of Christian and Buddhist missionary
gali and Bamar. influences. Some Chin follow the Pau Chin
The Rakhaing proudly speak Arakan, a Hau religion, which is based on the wor-
language they claim birthed Bamar (and is ship of a deity called Pasian and named
certainly related). Supposedly, the study of after Pau China Hau, a spiritual leader from
Arakan script has been made illegal by a the Tidam District, who lived from 1859 to
government keen to stress a Bamar line. 1948. Hau also devised the written Chin
language and is at least partly responsible
The Rohingya for resurgent Chin nationalism.
The Burmese government denies the exist- The more traditional Zo or Chin groups
ence of a Rohingya minority, a group of live in the south near the Chin-Rakhaing
around one million people who distinguish border. Chin Christians from the north
themselves from the Rakhaing majority by have bombarded the area with a project
their Islamic faith. Many Rakhaing Mus- called Chin Christianity in One Century
lims Rohingya as they prefer to be called (CCOC), the goal of which is to convert all
have fled to neighbouring Bangladesh Chin to the one true faith. The govern-
and India to escape Bamar persecution. ment, on the other hand, has its own Bud-
In recent years some have taken up arms, dhist missions in the area and is pushing
though there are no reports of skirmishes against both the animists and the Christians
with the government. Reportedly the Ro- in a battle for the Chin soul.
hingya must apply for permission to travel The Chin National Front, a nonviolent
even to visit the next village. In the past nationalist movement active on both sides
couple of decades about half a million Ro- of the India-Myanmar border, would like to
hingya fled to Bangladesh, though by the create a sovereign Chinland to be divided
mid-1990s half that many were repatriated into the states of East Zoram (the current
to Myanmar following agreements between Chin State in Myanmar), West Zoram (part
Yangon (Rangoon) and Dhaka. of southeastern Bangladesh plus Tripura in,
India), Central Zoram (the state of Mizo-
The Chin ram in India) and North Zoram (Manipur
In hilly and sparsely populated Chin State, in India). Rumours of activity spread dur-
the people and culture exhibit a mixture ing the research of this book in late 2004.
of native, Bengali and Indian influences This was a unified area before the British
similar to that found among the Rakhaing, came along.
with a much lower Burman presence. As
in Rakhaing State, there have been clear CLIMATE
governmental efforts in recent years to Those wishing to dodge the heat or rains
promote Burmese culture at the expense of outside the high season (about October to
Chin culture, and many Chin have fled west March) will find that downpours or jellyfish
to Bangladesh and India. will discourage much fun at Ngapali Beach.
Of Tibeto-Burman ancestry, the Chin Sittwe and Mrauk U receive more rain than
people call themselves Zo-mi or Lai-mi most of the country about 500cm per year.
(both terms mean mountain people), and Sudden rainstorms during the monsoon
share a culture, food and language with the (mid-May to mid-September) are danger-
Zo of the adjacent state of Mizoram in India. ous if travelling by boat to Mrauk U, or
Outsiders name the different subgroups between Sittwe and Taunggok. But rains
around the state according to the district in do bring surfable waves to Ngapali Beach.
which they live, eg Tidam Chin, Falam Chin Cyclones and tropical storms tend to occur
and Haka Chin. just before and after the rainy season.
Traditionally the Chin practise swidden
(slash-and-burn) agriculture. They are also DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
skilled hunters, and animal sacrifice plays Malaria precautions should be taken during
a role in important animistic ceremonies. monsoon season. Seven people were killed
314 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G N g a p a l i B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com
when their boat was hit by a chance storm No topless or nude bathing is allowed.
in late 2004, while heading from Sittwe to Surfing is possible during monsoon sea-
Mrauk U (see p322 for details). son (mid-May through to mid-September),
when malaria precautions should be taken.
GETTING THERE & AROUND Most hotels stay open all year, but its quiet
Thandwe (Sandoway) is the major access from April to October.
point for visitors headed to Ngapali Beach. The December 2004 tsunami essentially
Most arrive by air from Yangon. Two long had no impact here. The earthquake was felt,
bus routes from Yangon go to Thandwe but the area suffered no injuries or damage,
too, one via Pyay (Prome), and the other as only a very subtle change in the tide was
via Gwa. See p318 for more details. noticed.
Sittwe is the necessary access point to
Mrauk U. Its possible to reach it by plane Orientation
from Thandwe or Yangon (p321), or by Ngapali Beach is a 3km stretch paralleled
boat from Taunggok, near Thandwe (p318). by an unnamed road, with hotels spread
Note that a Myanma Airways flight from along its curve. Ngapali village is about 2km
Thandwe to Sittwe crashed in January 1998, north. Most visitors arrive at the Thandwe
killing several passengers. airport, which is actually closer to Ngapali,
The overland routes that link up north about 5km north of Ngapali Beach.
and south Rakhaing State are all closed to
foreigners. Information
Services are limited. A hotel is your best
bet for help for travellers info, money ex-

SOUTHERN RAKHAING change or to locate medical help.
This part of slender Rakhaing State boasts INTERNET & TELEPHONE

some of Myanmars best beaches and, un- Ngapalis limited Internet access can usu-
surprisingly, sees most of the visitors who ally be accessed at several hotels; nonguests
do make it to the region. Its the only part can get online at the Silver Beach Hotel
of the state with bus connections, in addi- (p316) and the Ngapali Beach Hotel (p316)
tion to air. for about K4000 per hour.
The government telephone centre (in
NGAPALI BEACH Ngapali village) charges US$5 for overseas
=plI calls. There are phone centres in the beach
%43 area at Ngapali Beach Hotel (per min US$7) and
Myanmars most popular beach destination Silver Beach Hotel (per min to North America/UK & Aus-
features a 3km palm-backed stretch of (for tralia US$5/4) The Silver Beachs phone stand
the time being) pretty quiet, pretty empty is outside the hotel.
white-sand public beach. Named, some say,
by a wayward Italian thinking of his Naples Sights
home, Ngapali has about 10 bungalow ho- FISHING VILLAGES
tels, with traditional fishing villages in the With a bicycle you can tour several of the
area. Local life still shares the sand with fishing villages. Just north of Ngapali Beach
(mostly European) foreign guests, as occa- are the small villages of Linthar and (further
sional ox carts meander by sunbathers. north, at the turnoff to Thandwe) Ngapali.
Historically isolated the bus trip here South of the hotels, and easily reached bare-
still remains the monster trip of Myanmars foot by the beach, is the more interesting
most popular desolations the nearby village of Jade Taw, where youll see fish dry-
Thandwe airport has triggered a more ing on bamboo mats.
midrange crowd streaming in. At research Even further south is the bigger village of
time, five new hotel projects (some joint Lontha and an inlet of the same name, backed
ventures) were under way (these are listed by a sweeping curve of mangrove and sand
on the map), and one-time cheapie guest- facing south. Its prettiest at high tide.
houses have scrubbed their rooms clean On a bayside hill east of Lontha is a mod-
and upped their prices. est white stupa with coloured bulbs attached
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G N g a p a l i B e a c h 315
NGAPALI BEACH 0
0
2 km
1 mile
Island off the south end of the beach. Cor-
als not super there are some towering
A B cones to swim around but theres plenty
INFORMATION of bright red and blue fish to follow. About
Government Telephone Centre....1 A2 anyone you ask can help arrange a trip.
Telephone Centre......................(see 8)
1 Telephone Centre....................(see 12) Another boat trip most hotels arrange is
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
to Pirate Beach (US$17 to US$20), a full-day
Ngapali Golf Course.....................2 A3 trip to an isolated beach an hour south;
SLEEPING
trips should include a BBQ lunch there. Its
Amata Resort & Spa.....................3 B4 not an island, but it cant be reached by land
Bayview Beach Resort...................4 B3
To Airport Grand Resort................................5 A3
(easily), so it feels like one.
(3km) Laguna Lodge..............................6 B4 Ngapali Golf Course (green fee US$5) is a nine-
Lin Tha Oo Lodge........................7 B4
Ngapali Beach Hotel.....................8 B4 hole course a couple of kilometres north of
Royal Beach Motel.......................9 B4 the beach. Hire clubs are available.
Ai
rp
2 Sandoway Resort.......................10 B4
or
Silver Beach Hotel......................11 B3

t
k
Rd
ee
Sleeping
Cr
To Thandwe EATING
Ngapali
(7km)
Best Friend Restaurant................12 B3 Rooms over US$100 are included in the
Village Catch.........................................(see 4)
Laguna Lodge Bar......................(see 6)
Top End section. Accommodation is open
1
Moonlight..................................13 B4 all year unless otherwise noted. A couple of
Ngapali Rd Smile Restaurant........................14 B4
Sunset Bar..................................(see 4)
former cheapies have been knocked down
2
Two Brothers Restaurant............15 B4 to make way for new resorts. At budget or
midrange hotels, electricity runs from 6pm
to midnight (usually) unless you spring for
3 Ice Factory
Ngapali rooms with generators.
k
ee Reservoir
Linthar Cr
Village
5
12
Thandwe Beach Hotel
BUDGET
11
4
(Construction Site) Grand Resort (s/d US$6/10) Facing Ngapali Beach
Jade Marina Resort
(Construction Site)
from a rocky stretch of beach at the north
Tamarind
Beach Hotel
7 14 end, the rather rough Grand Resort is not
15
(Construction Site)
13 the most desirable budget sleep in Myanmar
8
(and calling it a resort is a real stretch), but
Bay of
Bengal it gets you on the water cheaply. A sign in
4 10 Lontha village, north of the beach, leads a
3 few hundred metres south from the main
To Jade Taw
To Pearl Village (200m);
6
road. Its four rooms have concrete floors,
Island (250m) Lontha Village (2km)
mattresses on the floor, a rickety fan that
9
runs for a few hours, and an OK bathroom
attached.
to it. Its worth seeing for its glorious pano-
ramic views and for the adventure to reach MIDRANGE
it. To get there, turn left at the town junction Lin Thar Oo Lodge (%42333, in Yangon %01-229
(near the market and where Thandwe-bound 928; www.linntharoo-ngapali.com; s US$15-30, d US$20-
pick-ups await their turn). The road parallels 35; a) This 300m strip of 42 bungalows
the boat-filled bay and quickly degenerates towards the northern end of the bay has a
into a path too sandy and rocky to ride on; long, shaded deck outside and a great scene.
if on a bike, leave it with a local or walk it. Superior bungalows have air con, hot water
About five minutes or so after passing a rick- and satellite TV; standards come with cold
ety bridge, you reach the hill steps. Its about water and no TV. Electricity runs from 1pm
a 15-minute walk up the hill to the stupa. to 3pm and from 5pm to 10pm or so. This
used to be a golden cheapie; rates have
Activities risen, though room conditions (clean and
Four-hour snorkelling trips (4-5 people incl boat, simple, but showing some wear) havent
mask & snorkel US$12-15) usually go at 7am or always gone up with the hike (yet).
8am to catch the clearest water. Most trips Royal Beach Motel (%42411, in Yangon %01-
take in a few spots around (private) Pearl 243 880; [email protected]; r US$15-40; a)
316 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G N g a p a l i B e a c h www.lonelyplanet.com
An excellent midranger on the beachs south Lushly shaded in palms, with evocative
end (just before the fishing village starts), walkways leading past gardens and ponds,
the Royal has five price ranges for rooms in this Italian-Burmese joint venture is one
its super-comfy, shady and more compact part villa, one part cottage resort. Cottages
complex. All rooms have wood floors and are two storeys, with rich dark woods, airy
mosquito nets, and include breakfast al- loft beds with resting area, and a view over
fresco in the restaurant bar. A small forest of the water. Bathrooms have clear roofs. Two-
palms separates the rooms from the beach. floor villas follow the same plan, but are a
The two highest priced rooms (US$35 and couple of notches more luxurious. Rates
US$40) come with 24-hour power and air from 22 December to 15 January rise by up
con. Staff members bring buckets of hot to US$90, and fall by as much as US$50 in
water if you dont want your shower cold. October, April and May. The new swimming
Laguna Lodge (%43122, in Yangon %01-501 123; pool and library should be ready before you
r US$45-70) Ngapalis smallest accommoda- arrive. The restaurant has an Italian chef.
tion is this quiet, small bungalow with four Amata Resort & Spa (%42177, in Yangon %01-
rooms upstairs; the two US$70 rooms (and 542 535; www.amataresort.com; r US$120, ste US$140,
probably the only worthwhile options) face cabanas cottage/sea-view US$180/420; ais) This
the water, with big, creaking wood floors swish complex of two-storey cabanas (the
and shared balcony. Its open from mid- cottage is a steal compared to the sea-view
October to May. cost) is reached by a long open-air hall-
Silver Beach Hotel (in Yangon % 01-381 898; way and pool sandwiched between the bar
[email protected]; bungalow s US$55-85, and beach. Rooms are on the ground floor
d US$65-95; ai) At the beachs north end, (suite above) in the complex away from the
the Silvers stylish bungalows have mini- water.
bar, satellite TV and hot shower. The lobby Ngapali Beach Hotel (%42200, in Yangon %01-
has a small library and Internet (per hour 211 888; www.ngapalihotel.com; r US$100-160; ai)
K4000), which is often out. The private bun- This former government-run hotel (leased
galows, opened in 2003, are a few notches to private operators since 1999) has nice
up in comfort, with back patios facing the bungalows with back patios facing one of
water, hardwood floors and art details on Ngapalis longest (and calmest) stretches.
the walls. The duplex bungalows include But comfort-wise its a bit out of its league
front patio and are set around a lawn. compared to the others.
TOP END Eating & Drinking

These hotels are designed to compete as in- Cheap, fresh and plentiful, Ngapalis sea-
ternational resorts with the best in Thailand. food ranks easily amongst Myanmars best
Most need to be booked way in advance. At dining. The long lights that line the western
least five new ones were in the works at re- horizon offshore at dusk much of the year
search time; see the map for locations. arent Indias skyline but fishing boats with
Bayview Beach Resort (%20188, in Yangon %01- bright bulbs that are used to attract squid.
504 471; www.Bayview-Myanmar.com; r US$155, in the Unsurprisingly, Ngapali restaurants cook a
rainy season US$60; ais) This luxurious particularly mean squid, best when dunked
German-Burmese joint venture occupies a in a spiced ginger-and-garlic sauce.
nice trip of beach, with a rare beach bar, The government technically restricts bars
a spa, a shop and a restaurant. Swankish (and therefore the sale of alcohol) on beach
bungalows are filled mostly with package areas. Hotels, all of which have restaurants,
tourists (many Germans and Austrians); often keep the drinks tucked away from
youll need to reserve by April for a room in the water.
winter. Garden-view bungalows have dou-
bles and triples; beachfront ones are doubles MAIN ROAD RESTAURANTS
only. Activities include windsurfing, kayak- A dozen take-your-pick open-air restau-
ing and catamaranning. rants line the main road, with clusters
Sandoway Resort (%42244, in Yangon %01-296 grouped around most hotels. Each offers
987; www.sandowayresort.com; cottages s US$170-260, practically identical menus (posted in Eng-
d US$180-270, villas s US$260-330, d US$270-340; as) lish) with practically identical prices. A
www.lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G T h a n d w e 317
dish of crab, squid or barracuda runs about on the main road. Bicycles can be rented
K2000, barbecued tiger prawn is K3500, from most hotels for about K2000 per day.
and lobster is K9000 and up.
Moonlight (Ngapali Rd; h7.30am-10pm Oct-Apr) THANDWE
Theres no prices on the menu, but the otE
friendly English-speaking manager brings Though it plays a tertiary fiddle to Ngapali
the Yangon hotel experience to a simple deck in terms of travel appeal, Thandwe (aka
restaurant (rimmed by wagon wheels). Its Sandoway or Thantwe) is what your air-
barbecue squid (K2000) may be Ngapalis or bus-ticket stub will read. Located about
tastiest. Squid comes flattened as fillets 10km inland to the northeast of Ngapali
not diced up and barbecued. Beach, Thandwe is home to some 50,000
Other very good choices: residents (30% of which are Muslim) and
Best Friend Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) One of a pack of nicely fills a hilly valley with its low-key
eateries at the beachs north end. streets.
Smile Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) Outside Ngapali Beach Thandwe has been a key Rakhaing cen-
Restaurant. tre for many centuries. When the British
Two Brothers Restaurant (Ngapali Rd) Outside Amata stationed a garrison here around the turn
Resort & Spa. of the 20th century, they twisted the name
into Sandoway.
The islet at the southern end of the beach has
a small caf you can wade to for tea, beer and Sights
potato chips; theres good shade at midday. THE MARKET & AROUND
Housed in a former British jail in the centre
HOTEL RESTAURANTS of town, the Thandwe market is where a hand-
Only hotel restaurants provide beachside ful of guests from upscale beach resorts on
eating. Most hotels have kitchens open to day trips go seeking a real deal market. It is
all. Here are a few. kinda real deal actually. Vendors sell medici-
Bayview Beach Resort (%20188) This place nal herbs, clothes, textiles, some souvenirs,
has two restaurants. The Sunset Bar has US$5 hardware and free-market consumer goods.
pizzas, noodle dishes and burgers. Happy On its northern side, the Point is a
hour runs from 6pm to 7pm (beers US$1, friendly art gallery and teashop that hosted
cocktails US$2). Its main restaurant, the some free language courses for locals until
Catch, serves seafood from US$8 to US$22. it was shut down by the government in
Amata Resort & Spa Restaurant (h7-10am, 2004; ask to see if things have changed if
11am-2pm & 6.30-10.30pm; pizzas & pastas US$8-12, spe- you want to volunteer.
cialities US$14-20) This hotel restaurant over- Across the street on the north side is the
looks the pool and beach. On offer are a Suni Mosque, Thandwes largest of five.
juicy beef tenderloin for US$17, a big ice-
cream assortment (US$5) and real espresso HILL PAGODAS
(US$3). Three golden (and rhyming) stupas stand
Laguna Lodge Bar (%43122) Here you can on hilltops at four points around Thandwe.
get cocktails and fruit juices (including a None are spectacular in themselves, but each
rare carrot juice for K1000) on the sand. offers excellent viewpoints of the towns
tin roofs peeking out of a sea of palms and
Getting There & Away hills leading in east and west. Its worth
See p318 for information on buses and flight visiting at least one.
info to/from this region. Buses to Yangon, The tallest, Nandaw Paya, 1.5km west of
Pyay and Gwa offer pick-up service at Nga- the market, was supposedly erected in 761
pali Beach hotels. See p318 for information by King Minbra to enshrine a piece of a
on the nearby boat service. rib of the Buddha. The long shrine facing
the stupa to the south houses some nice
Getting Around wood-carving reliefs of Buddhas life. Most
A pick-up from Thandwe to Ngapali Beach visitors skip the overgrown steps up and
and on to Linthar village (K200, one hour) walk up the hill-encircling road that starts
runs frequently. Catch one in either direction on the hills northeast side.
318 S O U T H E R N R A K HA I N G K a n t h a y a www.lonelyplanet.com
Just east of town, right across a small river the reputation of being the hardest, bounci-
about 1km from the market, the Sandaw Paya est, most stomach-churning trip in Myan-
was supposedly built in 784 by Rakhaing mar; one traveller from Switzerland said, It
king Minyokin to house a Buddha hair, and was worse than training camp for the Swiss
was rebuilt by the Burmese in 1876. army. One local complained about bags of
Across the river north (past the bus sta- dried fish filling the aisles and floors on a
tion and east on a stone road about 2km supposedly cargo-free bus and left it: My
from the market), the Andaw Paya is the low- daughter will vomit all night. Some buses
est, but has revealing looks at the rivers hand out vomit bags.
fork from the hills east. It claims to house a The roughest part, between Taunggok
Buddha molar relic and dates from 763. and Pyay, winds mercilessly in the Arakan
You can get a trishaw to take you to all Mountains at night, when most passengers
three for K2000 or so. close up the windows for the cold keeping
the fish stench contained. But, really, its not
Sleeping & Eating that bad. On the cargo bus, we found seats
Thandwe has no licensed places to stay. You one to three (on the front row) and five
can find some noodles around the market, (second row, with no seat before it) particu-
and a couple of rice-n-curry restaurants larly good to keep an eye on the road. Also,
on sidestreets a block north and south. a hearty dose of garlic beforehand seems to
help neutralise the fish odour.
Getting There & Away If you dont want to take the trip to Pyay
AIR at night, you can take a pick-up or bus
Thandwe airport (%42611) is closer to Ngapali to Taunggok, spend the night, and grab a
village, about 3km north of the crossroads morning bus to Pyay.
between Ngapali Beach, Thandwe and the Ye Aung Lan (%43500) sends buses to Yan-
airport. Hotel buses meet planes offering gon (K4500, about 17 or 18 hours) via Gwa.
free transport to Ngapali Beach, reserva- You can stop off at Kanthaya beach (K3000,
tions or not. six to seven hours).
Yangon Airways (YA), Air Bagan and Air
Mandalay (AM) serve Yangon (US$72 to PICK-UP
US$80) daily, with several flights each week Pick-ups leave every 90 minutes from 6am
to Sittwe (US$64 to US$70). Flights to Heho to 6pm for Taunggok (K800/1200 in back/
(US$110) or Nyaung U (US$121) often go front seat, four or five hours) from a small
via Yangon. The connections run daily from station a couple of hundred metres north of
October to April. the bus station (across the river).
Government-run Myanma Airways (MA)
goes to Sittwe on Tuesday (US$50) and Yan- KANTHAYA
gon (US$65) daily. km'"o;y;
This small Rakhaing coastal town, 130km
BOAT south of Thandwe and 26km north of Gwa,
See Taunggok (right) for info on the boat is a struggling attempt at a new beach re-
service to Sittwe. sort. Its isolation has meant few people
make it here, and the beach doesnt have the
BUS reputation of Ngapalis. There are a couple
Only the heartiest travellers travel to/from of plain guesthouses that accept foreign-
here by bus. There are now two routes to/ ers, if youre looking to break the journey
from Yangon: over mountains via Pyay, and between Thandwe and Yangon using the
a smoother way along the coast via Gwa. Gwa route.
Both services leave at 3pm from the bus
station in Thandwe, about 1km north of TAUNGGOK
the market (just before the river). A ticket et;='kut'
for either is K4500. This surprisingly hopping lil town 80km or
The 17- or 18-hour route between Thand- so north of Thandwe is a stopping-off point
we and Yangon via Pyay (K4500, about 12 for travellers between Pyay and Thandwe
hours), run by Aung Thit Sar (%43499), has by bus, or for catching a boat to Sittwe.
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G S i t t w e 319
If youre staying overnight, the Royal Guest spicy dishes can easily fill the half-a-day
House (%043-61088; s/d K3000/6000) has clean you need on either side of a Mrauk U trip.
basic rooms with private bathroom a cou- The population is about 30% Muslim.
ple of blocks from the bus station. A port town of note for a couple of hun-
Fast boats leave from the Taunggok docks dred years, and inhabited for a couple of
to Sittwe (US$40, eight hours) on Monday, thousand, Sittwe boomed when the Brit-
Wednesday and Saturday. Several buses ish moved the Rakhaing capital here from
leave for Pyay (K2500) around 4am and Mrauk U in the early 19th century. Incom-
7.30pm daily. ing wealth from cargo trade with Calcutta
fuelled the construction of some fine colo-
nial mansions, but much of the grace was
NORTHERN RAKHAING lost under heavy WWII raids.
This area, brushing against the Bangladesh Orientation & Information

border, can be reached only by air or boat. Most of Sittwes action runs along the al-
most northsouth Main Rd, which paral-
SITTWE lels the Kaladan River. The airport is about
cc'et 2.5km southwest of the centre; the main
%43 / pop 200,000 boat jetty is about 1km north.
Propped impressively where the wide tidal The main hospital and post office are near
Kaladan River mouth kisses the Bay of Ben- the new clock tower, south of the centre
gal, Sittwe (also called Sittway) may sound (where youll find the old steel clock tower,
like a quaint spot for water-watching strolls. erected by the Dutch in the 18th century).
For most visitors, its just a hurry-and-leave Internet is slow and expensive in Sittwe.
transfer point for visitors heading to Mrauk At research time, there was a lone Inter-
U (p322). The fish market, friendly folk and net stand (Main Rd; per hr K4500; h8am-9pm); its

0 500 m
SITTWE 0 0.3 miles
A B C D
To Mrauk U
Jetty (1km);
k
ree
INFORMATION IWT Office (1km)

aC
Bangladesh Consulate..................1 C1 Ye Kyaw

Thu St
ky
Internet Stand..............................2 C3
yo
1
Sa
Main Hospital..............................3 C3 Kyaw Za 8

Police Station...........................(see 10) n Swe
St
1
Post Office...................................4 C3
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Myo Lw Bridge

Chaung e
Fish Market..................................5 C2 St Park
Fruit Bat Trees..............................6 C3 Kyayoug 14
Kyaung 20 Nga Pain
Jama Mosque..............................7 C2 13 St
Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi.......8 C1 24 U Ottama
New Clock Tower........................9 C3 21 St
Old Clock Tower........................10 C2
Htee D
Rakhaing State Cultural an St
Zeigyo St
Museum................................11 C2 (Market St)
10
St
2
u
SLEEPING Central
one S
Rd
Market
Noble Hotel...............................12 C2
Main
23
Set Y
Palace Hotel...............................13 C2 5
Prince Hotel................................14 C1
12 11 Ye Dwin St
Shwe Thazin Hotel.....................15 C3 (Merchant St)
7
EATING
City Point Music Restaurant.......16 C3 Cinema
May Yu Restaurant....................17 C3 6 22
r
Sittwe
Rive
Mondi Stand..............................18 B3 2 17
To Lokananda University
Nyein Chan................................19 B3 15
Paya (600m);
Buddhistic 19 3
dan
TRANSPORT Museum
(750m); Sittwe City 9 4
Kala
3 Air Mandalay Office..................20 C2 Airport (2km) Hall u St

Y
Malikha Express Office...............21 C2 May 16
Police
Myanma Airways Office............22 C3
The Strand
18 Bridge
Pier (Closed)..............................23 D2
Yangon Airways Office.............. 24 C2
Rd
To Sittway To the Point

Main
Hotel (2.5km) (2.5km)

320 N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G S i t t w e www.lonelyplanet.com
cheaper at the Noble Hotel or Shwe Thazin His former monastery, the Maka Kuthala
Hotel (opposite). Kyaungdawgyi (Large Monastery of Great Merit; Main
Outside the generator-run midrange ho- Rd; admission free), is housed in (of all things)
tels, electricity runs generally from 6pm to a grand, century-old British colonial man-
11pm only. sion north of the centre. The modest mu-
seum upstairs contains cases of Union of
Sights Burma notes, Buddhas and votives and
WATERFRONT coins from the Mrauk U and other ancient
Busy with to-and-fro boats, the Sittwe water- periods, plus a full case of more recent golf
front is not as grubby as many port towns trophies.
can be. The riverside Strand leads about A less satisfying collection, borrowed from
2km south to a smashing location called the some of Wannitas collection apparently,
Point (admission K50, per bicycle K50),where you can is at the Buddhistic Museum (Baw Dhi St; admission
sip on a beer or fresh coconut as the sun sets free), an official-looking building made by
over the Bay of Bengal. An extortionate fee the government in 1992. Inside are dozens
is tolled for cameras (K1000), digital cam- of small ancient Buddha images and votive
eras (K2000) and video cameras (K3000). tablets.
Just west is a grey-brown sand beach that The big pagoda between the museum
has a tricky undertow, where a few (often and the centre is the Lokananda Paya, put up
drunk) swimmers lose their lives each year. by General Than Shwe himself in 1997. On
The morning fish market kicks off around Saturday, soldiers shuffle to scrub clean the
6am and is worth popping by before your giant walkway around it. Just north is a small
boat or plane leaves. On the stone pier, ordination hall, which houses the Sachamuni
thousands of fresh fish are splashed on the image, a 1.5m bronze Buddha pock-marked
stone pier, where fishers sell baskets full for with mini-Buddhas. Apparently the image
US$3 or US$4. was found by Mrauk U fishers in recent
years previously thrown in the river to
RAKHAING STATE CULTURAL MUSEUM escape British destruction, one local said.
The government-run Rakhaing State Cultural It was housed at the Bandoola Monastery
Museum (Main Rd; admission US$2; h 10am-4pm in Mrauk U (p326) until the government
Tue-Sat) is worth a look for its two floors of moved it here in 1997. Its (unrealistically)
Rakhaing cultural goodies. On the ground claimed to date from 24 BC.
floor, diagrams, artefacts and signs in Eng-
lish detail how the Rakhaing started their OTHER SIGHTS
civilisation here around 3000 BC and about In the centre of town, an old steel clock tower,
Buddhas purported visit in 554 BC. Theres topped with a weathervane, was erected by
an imaginative rendering of Mrauk U in the Dutch in the 18th century. As a coun-
full steam that looks more Jules Verne, with tersymbol of Myanmar nationalism, in 1991
housed archways connecting hilltops. the government built the more ornate (and
Upstairs are displays on local customs (eg working) clock tower, south on Main Rd.
models showing off some of the 64 Mrauk Hundreds of fruit bats slumber during the
U royal hairstyles), festivals (including the day in the trees around Sittwe University,
ra hta pwe, a three-day tug of war) and then head off at dusk to island hop across
watercolour drawings detailing key moves the river.
you may need if you ever undergo a game Next to the Rakhaing State Cultural Mu-
of traditional Rakhaing wrestling. seum, the Jama Mosque (1859) is easily Sittwes
most impressive building.
BUDDHIST MUSEUMS
A lifes work by Sittwe monk Bhaddanta Sleeping
Wannita, who spent 49 years collecting old BUDGET
coins and Buddha images from monasteries Both shoestring options could use a little
to protect them from thieves, has resulted more love. Electricity runs from 6pm to
(seemingly) in a little tug-of-war between 11pm unless otherwise noted.
his former monastery and a government- Palace Hotel (%21657; Main Rd; s/d US$5/10)
opened museum. Barebone and rather rundown, the Palace
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G S i t t w e 321
has basic rooms with concrete floors, thin- City Point Music Restaurant (Strand; most dishes
mattress beds with mosquito net, and cold- K1000-2000; h7am-11pm) The nicest restaurant
water showers. It doesnt smell bad though. on the river, City Point has a big grass lawn
Theres no breakfast. Electricity pumps life on the bank and a nightly one-guy music
into either a fan or a fluorescent light bulb. show. Its got a good location, but spray up
Prince Hotel (%21395, in Yangon %01-286 701; before eating at dusk as mosquitos swarm.
www.mraukuprincehotel.com; Main Rd; s US$5-15, d US$10- Mondi is the Rakhaing-style fish noodle
20; ai) Its another run-down guesthouse soup downed by locals for breakfast. (One
but a bit more traveller-focused, the Prince local passionately explained its difference
has some dingy rooms with shared bathroom with the ubiquitous Burmese noodle soup:
on the ground floor, and bigger rooms (with Mohinga has peanuts, mondi has chillis!)
low ceilings) on the top two floors. The most Sittwes best many claim is served at the
expensive one has air-con from 7pm to 11pm small mondi stand (bowl K150; h6am-6pm) fac-
(its an extra K1500 per hour to keep the gen- ing the city hall on the road to the airport.
erator running). Breakfast is served on a In the centre, youll find a few basic res-
small veranda or on the shaded patio. Ask taurants on Main Rd. On the Strand, May
to see a few rooms before choosing one. Yu Restaurant is good for Chinese food
(and beer).
MIDRANGE
These more comfy options include round- Getting There & Away
the-clock generators. Overland routes between Sittwe and Yan-
Noble Hotel (%23558; 45 Main Rd; noble@myanmar gon (as well as to Mrauk U) are presently
.com.mm; s/d US$25/35; ai) This newcomer closed to foreigners.
sits in the centre across from the Rakhaing
State Cultural Museum. Rooms are small, but AIR
clean and quite modern with satellite TV, Sittwes airport is about 2.5km southwest of
minibar and hot-water shower. Staff mem- the centre. Taxis and trishaw drivers await
bers help you get online (per hr K3000) or flights.
on a bike. In peak season (between October and
Shwe Thazin Hotel (%23579; [email protected] April), daily flights go to/from Yangon and
.mm; 250 Main Rd; s/d US$30/35; ai) This new (at research time) there were flights five
hotel offers the same amenities as the days a week to/from Thandwe.
Noble, but with a super 7th-floor lookout
deck (Sittwes highest point, actually), good
for glimpses of those fruit bats across Main SPREADING THE COMMISSIONS
Rd. Internet is K2500 per hour. At research time a lone licensed guide
At research time, the Sittway Hotel, west was essentially running a monopoly on
of the Point, was still government run. all independent travellers commissions
(paid behind the scenes from taxis, hotels,
Eating boats companies, airline offices and trishaw
The same old curries and rice dishes come drivers you pay for) in Sittwe and Mrauk U.
with extra spice in Rakhaing State. Ask for Many travellers have enjoyed his service
local specialties at any restaurant and youll and he seems a nice, capable (if a little
usually get the tastiest stuff. pushy) fellow.
Nyein Chan (dishes K1000-2000; h 6am-10pm) But if you want more than one person
This friendly family Chinese/Burmese res- to cash in on you, dont tell the first Eng-
taurant is one along a strip of Sittwes most lish-speaker you meet at the jetty or airport
appealing eateries a few blocks inland from where youre staying. At the airport, avoid
the new clock tower. One local specialty is the extortionate US$3 taxi ride 2km to the
the super Rakhaing-style curry soup packed centre and walk 100m outside the airport
with prawns (15 at last count) and spiced gates and get a trishaw (about K1000). You
with chilli and ginger. Staff dutifully put could always ask to go to the Rakhaing
on Myanmar national news at 9pm, but State Culture Museum, then walk to your
sometimes keep on the live audio feed of place alone. Drastic, but it might work.
US pro wrestling.
322 N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G M r a u k U www.lonelyplanet.com
Air Mandalay (%21638; h9am-5pm) and Yan- Saturday. See Taunggok (p318) for schedule
gon Airways (%24102; h9am-5pm) sell tickets times to Sittwe.
for flights to Yangon (US$105 one way) and The pier that ran boats to Taunggok and
to Thandwe (US$75). the nearby Baronga Islands, near the fish
A bit cheaper, government-run Myanma market, was destroyed by a storm during
Airways (%23157; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) has flights the 2004 rainy season. Its possible services
to Yangon (US$90) and a Tuesday flight to will resume from there at some point in
Thandwe (US$50). the future. Boats for Taunggok were leaving
from the Mrauk U jetty at research time.
BOAT
To Mrauk U Getting Around
The only way to/from Mrauk U for foreign- Petrol is more expensive in Sittwe, evident
ers, presently, is by boat. There are three in the US$3 shared taxi fare to/from the air-
speeds to go by. port. Trishaws await most planes (outside
Government-run Inland Water Trans- the airport gate) and all boats, and should
port (IWT) has an office 100m west of the cost K1000 or less to get anywhere. You can
Mrauk U jetty, though theres no need to rent a bicycle from some hotels for about
buy tickets in advance. The two-level ferry K3000 per day.
chugs up the Kaladan River to Mrauk U
(US$4, six to seven hours) on Thursday, MRAUK U
Saturday, Monday and/or Tuesday. It can em;k'wI"
be quite pleasant upstairs on a deckchair %043
(K300) in good weather; theres a stall serv- Simply the journey to the ancient Rakhaing
ing basic food. capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung) 65km by
On days it doesnt run, at least one pri- boat from Sittwe on an increasingly nar-
vate boat (US$10, four to five hours) leave row waterway gives a sense of time and
at 7am and often at 2.30pm. Often these can place to this lovely area in the foothills of the
be arranged any day. Many are small open- Chin Mountains. Once in Mrauk U, its 150
air boats with folding seats and a quicker or so temples stand atop, under and between
motor than the IWT ferry. rounded hillocks so curved and perfect they
Nawarat Shwe Pyi Thar (%23159) runs a fast look like theyre from a childs drawing.
boat (US$20, three hours), leaving Sittwe at For those whove visited Bagan, Mrauk U
2.30pm. These are enclosed 32-seater boats (roughly pronounced myawk-oo) is at once
with small windows. smaller in temple size and scope but
more alive in the sense that thatched hut
To Taunggok & Baronga Islands villages perforate the site, with refuse fires
Malikha Express (%23441; Main Rd; h9am-5pm) sells adding a smoky haze at dusk, as shepherds
tickets for the fast boat (enclosed with win- lead their animals home. Curiously, locals
dows) for Taunggok (US$40, eight hours), call out bye bye and wave.
which departs on Monday, Thursday and The town is intersected by several chaung
(canals), the main source of transport and
water. Much daily activity seems to be taken
BOAT TRAGEDY up with water trips. Instead of the usual
In November 2004, five Italian tourists and clay pots or rectangular oil cans, Mrauk U
two locals were killed on a fast boat just residents carry shiny aluminium water pots
outside Mrauk U when a cyclone over- (imported from India) on their hips.
turned the boat. The boat had left Sittwe Since 1996, the government has funded a
at 2.30pm and was struck after dark. Such massive restoration of Mrauk U. So far 37
storms in winter are very, very rare. Some temples have been restored of 145 planned.
locals suggested, however, the govern- Not all visitors (or residents) share equal
ment ferry is bigger and safer as its less enthusiasm for how they look. One-time
likely to overturn. Certainly the daytime cracked stupas now look as if theyre made
trip offers higher visibility in case of an of potters clay.
accident. One of the most interesting times to visit
Mrauk U is during the huge weeklong paya
www.lonelyplanet.com N O R T H E R N R A K HA I N G M r a u k U 323
pwe (pagoda festival) held near Dukkan- The temples are grouped in relation to
thein Paya (p325) in mid-May. the central Palace Site: the North Group
Some harmless characters are likely to is home to the most popular temples, the
find you to say hi. Theres a literature man remote East Group has the finest engrav-
who makes a point to chat with all foreign- ings at Kothaung, and the South Group the
ers, and another guy who likes to murmur highest point.
in various languages in your presence.
Information
History Foreigners must pay a once-only US$10 fee
Mrauk U served as the last great Rakhaing to visit Mrauk U and any of its 157 known
capital for 354 years from 1430 to 1784. In monuments. Attendants at several temples
its heyday, it served as a free port trading (irritatingly) light up old details with fluo-
with the Middle East, Asia, Holland, Por- rescent lights and expect a K1000 donation;
tugal and Spain. A Dutch bloke who visited both fees should be paid at the Shittaung
in the 16th century called it one of the rich- Paya (p324).
est cities in Asia, comparable to London or It may be possible to visit Chin state from
Amsterdam. The remains of a European here (see p329).
quarter called Daingri Kan can still be seen There are a couple of useful books on Ra-
just southwest of town. khaing history and Mrauk U, but at research
The Mrauk U dynasty was much feared time you needed to buy them beforehand
by the peoples of the Indian subcontinent from Bagan Books in Yangon (p87). Tun
and central Myanmar. Mrauk U kings even Shwe Khines A Guide to Mrauk U (1993)
hired some Japanese samurai as bodyguards is more artful and better organised, but U
against assassination. At Mrauk Us peak, Shwe Zans The Golden Mrauk U: An An-
King Minbin (153153) created a naval fleet cient Capital of Rakhine (1997) has more
of some 10,000 war boats that dominated the detail and is considered by some to be more
Bay of Bengal and Gulf of Martaban. Many accurate.
of Mrauk Us finest temples (Shitthaung, Group Star Co-Op Ltd (per hr K5000; h9am-5pm)
Dukkanthein, Lemyethna and Shwedaung) offers Mrauk Us lone Internet connection.
were built during his reign.
Mrauk U was a successor to two earlier Sights
kingdoms in the area: Dhanyawady (c 1st PALACE SITE & AROUND
to 6th centuries AD) and Wethali (3rd to Just east of the main strip of Mrauk U vil-
10th centuries), the remains of which are lage, the onetime royal palace of Mrauk U
still visible to the north. All three kingdoms now is mostly crumbling walls (though the
blended elements of Theravada and Mahay- outer walls still stand 3.5m high) and gate-
ana Buddhism with Hinduism and Islam. ways of sandstone blocks. Its a good place
In the late 18th century, the Konbaung dy- to get your bearings with Haritaung just
nasty asserted its power over the region and north, golden Shwetaung on the hill to the
Mrauk U was integrated into the Bamar southeast.
kingdoms centred around Mandalay. According to the legend, King Minbuns
After the First Anglo-Burmese War of astrologers advised a move here in 1429
182426, the British Raj annexed Rakha- after the palace at Launggret had been in-
ing and set up its administrative headquar- vaded by poisonous snakes and evil birds.
ters in Sittwe, thus turning Mrauk U into His representatives witnessed some strange
a political backwater virtually overnight. things at this spot an old guy playing a
The Burmese name gradually changed to flute pointed to a cat-chasing rat and then
Myohaung (Old City), though the Rakha- a snake-biting frog apparently suggesting
ing continued to call the town Mrauk U. its soil as being worthy of a king. Construc-
tion began in 1430 (though some sources
Orientation say it didnt start until 1553); the palace
Temples and town mingle together over a layout is roughly based on the Mahamuni
7-sq-km or so area. The boat jetty is 1km Paya (p328) to the north. In the centre of
south of the market and main strip of town; the site is a hole dug that served as an es-
just east is the central Palace Site. cape tunnel to Shittaung Paya.
0 600 m
MRAUK U 0 0.4 miles
A B C D
To Wethali (10km); Mahamuni Paya (50km) Yenla Fortress
INFORMATION Haridaung..................................5 B2
Ngwetaung Ahmyinttaung Group Star Co-Op Ltd................1 B2 Kothaung Temple......................6 C2
Fortress Fortress
Laksaykan Gate..........................7 B3
1 14 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Laungbanpyauk Paya..................8 B1
Andaw Paya...............................2 B2 Laymyetnha Paya.......................9 B1
8 Bandoola Kyaung.......................3 B3 Lokamanaung..........................10 A2
Ph Dukkanthein Paya......................4 B2 Mahabodhi Shwegu.................11 B1
ar Hill Market.....................................12 B2
a
Viewpoint 11 Market...................................(see 25)
Baw C
9 Museum...................................13 B2
15 Pitaka Taik................................14 B1
re
2 Ratanabon Paya........................15 B2
ek
4 18 16 Ratanamanaung.......................16 B2
Hill 20 Sakyamanaung Paya................17 C2
Viewpoint International Shittaung.................................18 B2
Mrauk U Telephone 17 6
Station Shittaung Pillar.......................(see 18)
Hotel 5
2 10 Shwetaung Paya......................19 C2
Shwegudaung
27 Hill
24 SLEEPING
13 Nawarat Hotel..........................20 B2
1 Palace Prince Hotel.............................21 C2
Waze Site Royal City Guesthouse.............22 B3
Creek 19 Vesali Resort Hotel...................23 C3
25 ek
12 Cre 21
e
ez EATING
22 Al 23
Ponnomyaung Da Nya Wadi Restaurant........(see 25)
Fortress Moe Cherry..............................24 B2
Daingri
Kan 26 Pyae Wa Restaurant.................25 B2
Site
k
ee TRANSPORT
Cr
3 at Jetty........................................26 A3
ngd 7 Taxi Stand................................27 B2
Myataung
Au Aungminggala
Fortress
Fortress
To Sittwe (55km)
3 Laythataung
Fortress
Just inside the western walls, the Depart- Shittaung

ment of Archaeologys museum (admission free; The usual starting point is at Mrauk Us
h11am-3pm Mon-Fri) includes a few rooms most complex temple, the Shittaung (Sit-
with some good pieces culled from area sites taung in Burmese). King Minbin, the most
for safe-keeping. Included are Buddha im- powerful of Rakhaings kings, built it in
ages, inscripted stone slabs (a 15th-century 1535. Its a frenzy of stupas of various sizes;
one features ancient Arabic writing), reliefs some 26 surround a central stupa. Shit-
with some original colour intact, cannons, taung means Shrine of the 80,000 Images,
Wethali-era coins and a helpful model of a reference to the number of holy images
the Mrauk U site. Old photos on the walls inside (the actual tally is more like 84,000,
include a before-restoration shot of Ratan- though some have since been stolen). Thick
abons (opposite) crack. Its worth poring walls, with windows and nooks, surround
over the Shittaung pillar replica (see right), the two-tiered structure. A recent (exhaus-
which is far easier to make out than the tive) restoration has sadly left much of the
deteriorated original. Items are signed in exterior looking more like moulding clay
English. than an ancient ruin.
Off the road just north of the Palace Outside the southwest entrance stair-
walls, steps lead up to hilltop Haridaung Paya way, and inside a locked mint-green build-
(built around 1750), a small white paya with ing, is the much-studied Shittaung Pillar, a
particularly good westward views. 3m sandstone obelisk brought here from
Wethali by King Minbin. Considered the
NORTH GROUP oldest history book in Myanmar (by the
For many, this area is the pick of the litter Rakhaing at least), three of the obelisks
for Mrauk U, with all sites within walking four sides are inscribed in a faded Sanskrit.
distance. There are a couple of food stalls Little can be made out now, but theres a
and a gift shop below the Shittaung. clearer replica at the palace museum, left.
The east-facing side likely dates from the lined with Buddha niches; in the centre of
end of the 5th century. The western face the shrine, an eight-sided pillar supports
displays a list dating from the 8th century the roof.
outlining Rakhaing kings from 638 BC to The original construction of the shrine is
729 AD (King Anandacandra). Lying on its ascribed to King Minhlaraza in 1521. King
back next to the pillar is a cracked, 3.6m- Minrazagyi then rebuilt Andaw in 1596 to
long sandstone slab featuring an engraved enshrine a piece of the tooth relic suppos-
lotus flower (a Buddhist motif) growing edly brought from Sri Lanka by King Min-
from a wavy line of water (Brahman motif) bin in the early 16th century. Most likely
and touching an intricately engraved dham- the roofline sikhara date to his later recon
machakka (Wheel of the Law). struction, as their slender, terraced style is
Inside the temples prayer hall (where at- very different from that found at Shittaung.
tendants collect the US$10 entrance for
Mrauk U and a K1000 light fee) youll see Ratanabon Paya
several doors ahead. Two lead to passage- This massive stupa (sometimes called Yada-
ways that encircle the main Buddha image napon), just north of Andaw Paya, is ringed
in the cave hall (which is seen straight by 24 smaller stupas. It was apparently built
ahead). by Queen Shin Htway in 1612. During
The far left (southwest) doorway leads to WWII a bomb nailed it, but it had already
the outer chamber, a 94m passageway with been picked at by treasure hunters attracted
sandstone slabs cut into six tiers. Over by the name, which means accumulation
1000 sculptures (perhaps over-illuminated of treasure. Recent renovations repaired
considering the windows) show a lot of de- the enormous bomb-made crack and rein-
tail of Rakhaing customs (eg traditionally serted the tall chattra (spire).
dressed dancers, boxers, acrobats), beasts
of burden, and hundreds of Jataka (scenes Dukkanthein Paya
from Buddhas past 550 lives). At each cor- Across the road to the northwest of Shit-
ner are bigger figures, including the maker taung, the Dukkanthein (the name loosely
King Minbin and his queens at the south- means ordination hall that spiritually rein-
west corner. The passage exits back into the forces the town) smacks of a bunker (with
prayer hall on the opposite side. stupas) set impressively on its small bluff
Next to the outer chamber entry is a amid a green field. Wide stone steps lead
coiling inner chamber leading past dozens of up the south and east side; take the latter
Buddha images in niches, passing a Buddha to reach the entrance.
footprint where its said Buddha walked Built by King Minphalaung in 1571 in
during his post-enlightenment. Once you get particularly troubled times, Dukkantheins
to the dead end, double back to the hall, and
see if you can feel the passageway becoming
cooler. Some claim it does, symbolising the MRAUK US TOP FIVE VIEWS
cooling effect of Buddhist teachings. Bagan boasts its sunsets, but Mrauk Us best
Along the outer walls, several reliefs can be vantage spots great any time of the day
seen engraved (some are hard to reach); a few rival it, with smoky refuse fires adding a
on the south side are rather pornographic. spookiness to the hills and temples. Here
are five goodies:
Andaw Paya Shwetaung Paya (p326) is the highest
Immediately northeast of Shittaung stands a in Mrauk U
smaller, eight-sided monument with a simi- Haridaung (opposite) has great west-
lar linear layout: rectangular prayer hall ward views
to the east, multispired sanctuary to the
Hillock just north of Ratanabon (p326)
west. Sixteen zedi (stupas) are aligned in a
square-cornered U-shape around the south- Ratanamanaung, accessed from the
ern, northern and western platforms. As at road just west of Sakyamanaung (p326)
Shittaung, small windows admit light and Hill just east of Lokamanaung, 500m
ventilation, but here the fluorescent glare west of the Palace (Map p324)
is dimmer. Two concentric passageways are
interior features spiralling cloisters lined zedi was erected in 1629 by King Thirithud-
with images of Buddha and, as per astrolo- hammaraza. At this later stage, stupas were
gers strategic advice to the king, of common built more vertically and ornate than before
people, landlords, governors, officials and (an absorption of Bamar and Shan styles).
(notably) their spouses, who famously show The lower half of the well-preserved 85m
off all of Mrauk Us 64 traditional hairstyles. zedi features a multitiered octagonal shape
Along the way, stairs lead off to an ordina- as at Laungbanpyauk Paya, but beyond this
tion hall. The passageway nearly encircles the bells reverts to a layered circular shape
the centre three times before reaching the mounted by a decorative hti (umbrellalike
sun-drenched Buddha image set above the top). At the western gate are a couple of
inner stairway. A fine paya pwe is held near half-kneeling, painted giants.
the paya in mid-May. To the west is Ratanamanaung, which
The Laymyetnha Paya, 100m north, looks offers fine views.
a bit like a squashed-up version of the Duk-
kanthein, but was actually built 140 years Kothaung Temple
earlier. Inside the unrenovated pagoda, a One of the Mrauk U highlights, this temple
round passage is lined with Buddha images. (undergoing heavy restoration at research
time) is a couple of kilometres east of the
North of Ratanabon Palace. Its not necessarily the easiest to find
Around the hillock northeast of the Rata- by bicycle; locals will point the way. At 69m
nabon are a few worthy sites. The first is by 75m, the massive structure is Mrauk Us
this squat hilltop Mahabodhi Shwegu (built in largest. Built in 1553 by King Minbuns son,
1448), above on the right, with a narrow pas- King Mintaikkha, to outdo his pops Shit-
sageway leading to a 1.8m central Buddha taung by 10,000 images (Kothaung means
and four Buddhas in niches. The best are Shrine of 90,000 Images), much of it was
the 280 Jataka scenes, acrobats, worshippers, found in fragments. Legends vary that
and animal love scenes (!) engraved onto ei- lightning destroyed it, jewel-seekers over-
ther side of the narrow, arched entry walls. turned walls, or that it was built with infe-
Back on the road, and 120m north, is rior stones by a superstitious king bent on
the octagonal Laungbanpyauk Paya, a slightly beating a six-month timeline.
leaning zedi built by King Minkhaungraza Most of the outer passageway is acces-
in 1525. Some locals call it the Plate Pa- sible. Its lined with thousands of bas re-
goda as its outer wall is still adorned with liefs on the walls and Buddha images (some
glazed platelike tiles in bright colours. En- headless) probably the most jaw-dropping
circling the zedi are 16 Buddhas in niches detail of Mrauk U. Stairways lead up to a
with still-surviving detail. Its restoration top terrace, where restoration is underway
feels more authentic than some temples. to rebuilt the 108 stupas that once dotted
At the end of the road, 200m north, the the temple top.
compact, highly ornate Pitaka Taik is the last
remaining of the 48 libraries that were in SOUTH GROUP
Mrauk U. It was built in 1591 by King Min- South of the palace site, and across the river,
phalaung as a repository for the Tripitaka are evocative, easy-to-lose-your-way back
(Three Baskets; the Buddhist canon), which lanes through thatched-hut villages and a
was received from Sri Lanka in the 1640s. host of pagodas. About 1km south, the Lak-
Its wee only 4m long and 2.7m high. The saykan Gate leads to the eponymous lake,
Pitaka Taik is near the old city wall, which a source of clean water and pride among
ran eastwest just to the north. locals. To the west is the interesting hilltop
Bandoola Kyaung, a monastery where many
EAST GROUP worshippers climb the steps to see several
Starting east of the Palace walls, this area Buddha images in covered areas.
stretches a couple of kilometres east. Southwest of the Palace, the Shwetaung
Paya (Golden Hill Pagoda) is the highest in
Sakyamanaung Paya Mrauk U; you can see it for nearly half the
Roughly 1km northeast of the Palace walls, trip from Sittwe. Built by King Minbin in
and behind Shwegudaung hill, this graceful 1553, its accessed by a few trails largely lost
under thick vegetation (best not to return Vesali Resort Hotel, this leafy complex of
after dark). The views are worth the scrapes: seven bungalows used to be dark and dreary,
a full panorama of the Chin Hills, Mrauk U but fixed itself up (somewhat) in 2004. Bam-
and the river leading towards Sittwe. boo details fill the rooms, and staff will bring
a bucket of hot water to ease your cold-
Festivals & Events shower fears. The hotel also makes up a use-
A huge weeklong paya pwe (pagoda fes- ful Mrauk U map, and can point you to a
tival) is held near Dukkanthein Paya in nearby trail up the hill to Shwetaung Paya.
mid-May. The Mrauk U Hotel, across from the Na-
warat, is government-run.
Sleeping
All hotels offer free breakfast. Electricity Eating & Drinking
runs from about 5pm to 10pm or 11pm, Mrauk U has few eating options. The Na-
unless otherwise noted. warat Hotel has a good restaurant.
Royal City Guest House (%23808-19; s/d with Moe Cherry (dishes K1000-2000, beer K1500;h11am-
shared bathroom US$5/7, r/bungalow US$10/15) A cou- midnight) This traveller-focused, two-storey
ple of hundred metres towards town from restaurant, east of the palace walls, serves
the docks, this friendly guesthouse is right a few meals and whats on offer changes
on the river and next to two loud timber nightly (theres no menu; just ask). Theres
yards that quieten after dark. Some staff a deliciously Rakhaing edge to the chicken
members sing lovely Rakhaing folk songs curry, prawn and veggie dishes. At last visit,
to fill the days space. New bungalows are the cauliflower dish was a knockout. The
across the road. The cheapest rooms are restaurant also arranges car service to the
very basic and very small (bed, window, Mahamuni Paya or around the sites. In 1998
small table and the space to put em in). the restaurant was uprooted from its loca-
The shared bathroom has no roof (nice for tion on the east side of the palace along
moonlit tinkles), but is kept quite clean. All with other businesses/homes by the
beds have mosquito nets. government.
Vesali Resort Hotel (in Yangon %01-526 593; Pyae Wa Restaurant (dishes from K600; h7am-
[email protected]; s/d US$30/35) The super- 9pm) The foods pretty good at this lively
inviting, relaxing bungalows at the Vesali Chinese hole-in-the-wall across from the
come with dark, wooden floors and mos- market, but coming here is more about tak-
quito nets. Night-lights run all night, but ing in Mrauk Us main action pedalling by.
fans and electricity run only from 5.30pm Veggie noodles are K600; meat dishes keep
to 11pm or midnight. Its slightly removed in the gristle just like the locals prefer.
from town, and the bulk of the temples. Da Nya Wadi Restaurant (dishes from K500, draught
Sometimes discounts can be arranged if you beer K350) Its another mostly Chinese restau-
book ahead, and the 18 rooms do fill in rant near the market, but this one has white
winter. Some package tourists. bunnies hopping on the concrete floor.
Nawarat Hotel (%24001, in Yangon %01-703 885;
fax 01-661 159; s US$30-36, d US$40-48; a) Opened Getting There & Away
in 2001, this hotel is enviously set in walk- For information on the difference between
ing distance from the Shittaung temple, the boat services to Mrauk U, see Sittwe
but is a tad overpriced. Its bungalow-style (p322). At the time of research, the govern-
motel units are clean and comfy, if a bit ment boat to Sittwe (US$4, five hours) left at
generic. The higher priced rooms get you 8am on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and
24-hour electricity; otherwise power clicks Friday; on other days a private boat (US$10,
off from 6pm to 6am. All rooms have four hours) left at the same time. Fast boats
hot-water tubs, satellite TV, minibar and (US$15 or US$20, three hours) usually de-
a photo of elephants behind the twin or part at 7.30am. Arrive at least 30 minutes
double beds. The free breakfast is served in early to purchase a ticket for the government
a restaurant open all day. Its on the pack- or private boat (and have dollars ready), or
age-tour circuit too. ask your hotel to help beforehand.
Prince Hotel (in Yangon%01-441 0150, 01-286 701; The Mrauk U jetty is about 1km south of
www.mraukuprincehotel.com; r US$15-20) Next to the the market; trishaws meet arriving boats.
328 C H I N S TAT E www.lonelyplanet.com
Getting Around former ancient capital of Dhanyawady, the

A horse cart around the temples costs about image is one of the countrys most famous
US$8 to US$10 per day. A jeep is about and venerated. Still, its fascinating to visit
US$20. Hotels can get you a bicycle for the site.
K2000 or K3000. Theres a taxi stand on the Some Rakhaing believe the image was
north side of the palace. cast when Buddha visited the area in 554
BC. Others say the Bamar unknowingly
AROUND MRAUK U took a counterfeit back to Amarapura (it
Its not usually possible to visit the sites now resides in Mandalay; p234) and the true
listed following by public transport. A jeep one rests under the banyan tree at the sites
to both runs to about US$25. Also see right southwest corner. The Rakhaing dont let
for details of trips to nearby Chin State. go easily.
(Note that details change frequently.) The current Konbaung-style shrine dates
from the 18th or 19th centuries, as earlier
Wethali ones were destroyed by fire. The Mahamuni
evo;lI Buddha is gone, but Mahamunis brother
Almost 10km north of Mrauk U are the is now one of three fine golden images rest-
remains of the kingdom of Wethali (aka Ve- ing inside. Outside, on the southeast wall,
sali, or Waithali in local parlance). Accord- is a 5th-century AD slab depicting a Naga
ing to the Rakhaing chronicles, Wethali was queen. Down the steps, near the south walls
founded in AD 327 by King Mahataing of the shrine, is a museum with a couple of
Chandra. Archaeologists believe that this dozen relics and engraved stones. An 18th-
kingdom lasted until the 8th century. Lit- century bell, placed nearby to keep invad-
tle remains to see of the oval-shaped city. ers at bay, mysteriously disappeared a few
Many of the hillocks around the area are years ago.
actually stupas, which have become cov- The hilltop golden stupas visible (barely)
ered. The walls of the 500m by 300m central to the east mark Salagiri Hill, the fabled site
palace site are reasonably well-preserved; where Buddha visited in 554 BC. The area
its prayer hall is now used as an irrigation is closed to foreigners.
tank during the rainy season. The easiest way to get to the site is by
The main attraction for visitors en route hired jeep (about US$20 or US$25 from
to Mahamuni Paya is the so-called Great Mrauk U, including a stop at Wethali). It
Image of Hsu Taung Pre (Pye), home to a 5m takes about three hours from Mrauk U.
Rakhaing-style sitting Buddha. Its said to Public transport is infrequent.
be carved from a single piece of stone and
date to AD 327 (most visitors argue the
features look more modern). The highly
revered image is swathed in embroidered
CHIN STATE
red holy cloth and attended by monks and xY='"p'ny'
nuns, who live nearby. Just behind are rem- At research time, much of Chin State re-
nants of the moat and stupa-created hill- mained a question mark for travellers.
ocks or two. Across the state line in southern Chin
Regular transport is rare. Its possible to State, traditional cultures continue more
reach here by bicycle (take the sign that richly than elsewhere in the state. Many
says VSL and you are here east from the women still have traditionally tattooed
main road). faces, though its a fast-fading custom. At
higher elevations, they wear thick, striped
Mahamuni Paya cotton blankets draped over the body, and
mh;mu,i.ur;" copper and bronze ornaments. Among the
Many local Rakhaing recollect, with fresh, Khamui, a subtribe that inhabits lower ele-
fiery passion, how the Bamar King Bodaw- vations of the area, unmarried women wear
paya sent soldiers to dismantle and remove short skirts and little else. Chin men tend to
the Mahamuni Buddha in 1784. Originally wear simple Western-style dress. Paletwa
housed here at the Mahamuni Paya, 40km village, just across the state line, is on the
north of Mrauk U and just north of the Kaladan River.
www.lonelyplanet.com C H I N S TAT E T o u r s 329
As in the past, the only way to visit Chin You need to book the trip at least five days
State is by seeking (expensive) permission in advance. Apparently the MTT office in
from a Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) New Bagan (p275) can arrange tours, but it
office. In addition to the following access seemed a bit up-in-arms about it when last
point, Kalaymyo (in Sagaing Division) is checked; more dependable is pre-arranging
home to many Chin people, and can be ac- from the MTT office in Yangon (p89). To
cessed without permission; see p262. save money, ask to meet the guide from
Before setting out, its best to check with Bagan at a specified date.
MTT in Yangon (p89) for the latest info.
See p313 for more on the Chin people. From Mrauk U
The one-time popular trips to Chin State
TOURS from Mrauk U were shut down by the gov-
From Bagan or Yangon ernment in October 2004. Trips are likely
At research time, the only way to visit Chin to recommence. Rumours of why the
State was via a guided trip from Yangon or shutdown occurred range from insurgents
Bagan. The trips enter Chin State west of battling government troops to a potential
the Chauk Bridge, south of Bagan. Nights entrepreneur negotiating to buy a village
are spent in Mindat, and excursions include to corner the tourist market. If tours should
hikes up Mt Victoria (Natmataung), which begin again, its likely the government will
is excellent for bird-watching, and tattooed play a more active (perhaps exploitive) role
women villages. Generally trips last three than previously, when a US$30 permis-
days. MTT quote prices at US$150 per day sion fee, US$25 boat fee and US$3 for a
per person, which includes a guide, transport horse cart allowed travellers access to Chin
and accommodation in a simple guesthouse. State for far less than trips organised from
It might be possible to negotiate prices. Bagan.
DIREC TORY 330
Directory
hotels are run as joint ventures with Singa-
pore, Thailand, Japan and other countries.
CONTENTS
Prices
Accommodation 330 Nearly all hotels quote prices in US dol-
Activities 332 lars or the fast-fading Foreign Exchange
Business Hours 334 Certificates (FEC; see p345). If you pay in
Children 334 kyat, the price will be quoted at a slightly
Climate charts 335
Courses 335
Customs 336
PRACTICALITIES
Dangers & Annoyances 336 When its working: 230V, 50Hz AC
Disabled Travellers 338 electricity. Most power outlets have
Discount Cards 339 two-pronged round or flat sockets.
Embassies & Consulates 339
Outside Yangon, no-one in Myanmar
calls an ambulance in an emergency;
Food 342
they go to the hospital. You could call
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 342
top-end hotels in a crisis and ask about
Holidays 342
English-language doctors.
Insurance 342
Internet Access 342 All guesthouses and hotels wash dirty
Legal Matters 343 laundry, starting at K1000 for a small
Maps 343 load.
Money 344 Yangon publishes two English-language
Photography & Video 346 newspapers: Myanmar Times, which
Post 346 offers some useful travel and
Shopping 346 entertainment information, and the
Solo Travellers 349 serious government mouthpiece
Telephone 349 New Light of Myanmar. Two tourism-
Time 350 related magazines are harder to come
Toilets 350 by: Perspectives and Enchanting
Tourist Information 350 Myanmar.
Visas 351
All national radio and TV broadcasts
Volunteering 352
are state controlled. Many locals listen
Women Travellers 352
to short-wave radios for BBC and VOA
broadcasts. Satellite TV has brought
ACCOMMODATION some dramatic changes in recent
Outside the touristy destinations Yangon,
years, with CNN, MTV Asia, BBC World
Bagan (Pagan), Mandalay, Inle Lake and
Service and sacre bleu! Fashion TV
Ngapali Beach most accommodation op-
all piping in.
tions hover between bare-bones guesthouses
with concrete floors and cold-water showers The standard video system in Myanmar
down the hall to Chinese-style hotels with is NTSC, but many people also own
green carpet, minibar, satellite TV, private PAL models, which are compatible
bathroom with hot water, and some wood with Thailand, Australia and most of
carvings perhaps. Some places are quite Europe.
comfy and well cared for. Joint-venture ho- 1 Burmese viss or 100 ticals = 1.6kg;
tels and a few locally run ones offer high- 1 gaig = 91cm; petrol is sold by the
class comfort and service at prices soaring gallon; distances are in miles, not
from US$100 to US$500. Nearly all accom- kilometres.
modation is privately run. Some top-end
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y A c c o m m o d a t i o n 331
DIREC TORY
LICENSED TO SLEEP?
Foreigners are only allowed to stay at licensed hotels and guesthouses, which means that es-
tablishments keep at least five rooms and reach a certain standard. In the past, some owners
bent the rules in less visited towns, but that seems to be waning. Staff will often say we have
no rooms instead of owning up that they lack the license. Other places post the license clearly
on the door or on the entry wall.
At night, all hotels and other accommodation options must fill in police forms on behalf of
all guests, which include the details of your visa and your passport number. Hotels will not have
to keep your passport, however.
unfavourable rate (say K1000 for every Staying at cheapie guesthouses means that
US$1 asked for, instead of the exchange less money is directed this way. Essentially,
rate of K950). Prices quoted at budget and no guesthouses in the country have direct
midrange hotels include all taxes; usually government ties.
top-end hotel prices dont include the 10%
government tax and 10% service charge in Government Hotels
their quoted prices. The government the Ministry of Hotels
The vast majority of hotels, apart from & Tourism (MHT) to be more precise
top-end ones, have a two-tier pricing sys- directly operates a dwindling number of
tem (for foreigners or locals) and often two hotels around the country. Travellers keen
or more types of rooms for each. In some to minimise the money going into the gov-
cases shoestringers can insist on staying in ernments coffers should avoid staying at
a local room, which is often a cubicle wall these hotels, which are often empty and/or
with a hard mattress, a fan (maybe), and a poorly cared for. See the boxed text, p332,
cold-water shared bathroom. Often there for more information on this.
are two foreigner room types too; a few
extra dollars gives you air-con instead of a Guesthouses
fan, a private bathtub rather than a private Considering the absence of hostels and
(or shared) shower, and satellite TV instead camping options, the (usually family-run)
of local TV or no TV at all. Almost all ho- guesthouses are the de-facto sleeping op-
tels offer a free breakfast of eggs, toast and tion for shoestringers. Rates range from
coffee or tea; occasionally the traditional US$3 to US$8 or so a little higher in
mohinga (noodles with fish or chicken)
breakfast is offered its definitely worth
TOP CHEAP SLEEPS
trying.
Its possible to bargain at most hotels, Sometimes its not money that makes a
especially during the low season (March to place so homey and right that it feels wrong
October). Most people checking in early to leave. Here are three places that we
say if theyre arriving off an overnight bus, enjoyed.
which often gets in at around 6am or 7am Mya Yatanar Inn, Pakokku (p280) Crusty,
are only charged for the following night. but real Myanmar all the way more home than
Most hotel staff speak some English and guesthouse actually run by a former boxing coach
can certainly help you exchange money at and his wife; K3500.
good rates, but not always the best. In some Myanmar Beauty Guest House IV, Taungoo
cases, staff will charge some commission, (p291) Myanmars biggest breakfast is served in this
often at the same rate youll find on the street. teak home amid rice paddies, palms and mountains;
The staff is also usually well informed about from US$8.
travellers needs, and can help arrange a Viewpoint, near Kalaw (p176) While this is
taxi, rent a bicycle or (importantly) procure more of a place for a curry and to enjoy the views,
ever-confusing bus or train tickets. In all, it makes a good place to spend the night if you can
their help is invaluable. organise it; the Viewpoint is atop a mountain and
Note that a 10% tax (at least) on all hotel charges K1500 for bed and curry.
payments goes straight to the government.
DIREC TORY 332 D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
Yangon. Some are lovingly cared for, some ACTIVITIES

arent. In some towns one guesthouse is the See p33 for an itinerary in Myanmar that
lone option and you get what you get. For features a number of activities.
most, variables include concrete or bubbly
vinyl floor; private or shared bathroom; hot Bird-Watching
or cold water; local, satellite or no TV; air- The nations best bird-watching is to be
con or fan or nada. Usually a mark left by found on the hike up Mt Victoria in Chin
a bumped suitcase on the wall is left there, State, presently accessed only through ex-
as are in the grubbiest places squashed pensive government-sponsored tours (see
mosquitoes. p329).
Hotels & Resorts Cycling

Hotels means everything from eight-room Some cycling groups have made it on tours
guesthouses that strategically use the name to Myanmar. But you dont have to be on a
to joint-venture hotels with lush gardens tour to enjoy cycling here.
surrounding a giant pool. Rates range from The most popular route is between Man-
US$8 to well over US$100. dalay and Bagan, via Myingyan. This is a
Many of the midrange hotels are modern, fairly flat route that keeps to the east of the
Chinese-style multistorey jobbies. In more Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. For some-
touristy locations, some are bungalow-style, thing more hilly and scenic, go northeast
with porches and a sitting garden where of Mandalay to Pyin U Lwin, Hsipaw and
breakfast is served. Doubles at these range Lashio. Some of that road has dividers,
from US$20 to US$35. meaning no oncoming traffic swaying into
Those more accustomed to high-end your lane. Another very scenic route starts
comfort will find escaping the main travel in Thazi (accessible by train) and runs east
destinations harder to stomach. Upmarket through hilly Kalaw and Pindaya to Inle
hotels, including some joint-venture, lux- Lake.
ury resorts with standards rivalling those Short trips out of Mandalay to Monywa,
in Thailand, are found in Yangon, Bagan, Sagaing, Inwa (Ava) and Amarapura also
Ngapali Beach and Mt Popa. Slightly less make satisfying rides.
classy options can be found in Mandalay, See p360 for more on bringing bicycles
Inle Lake, Pyin U Lwin, Chaungtha Beach, into the country.
Ngwe Saung and Kyaiktiyo (the Golden
Rock). Most upmarket hotels are in the Diving & Snorkelling
US$70 to US$100 price range, but some The beach resorts of Ngapali Beach (p314)
reach US$500 a night. andChaungthaBeach(p135 ) )offerhalf-and
)
WHERE DOES THE ACCOMMODATION MONEY GO?

The big question on the minds of travellers keen to avoid government-run businesses whats
government run? is not always the easiest to answer. In recent years the government has leased
some of its deteriorated hotels to foreign businesses in the form of joint ventures, or to private
entrepreneurs, who often face insurmountable odds to right the ship. Throughout this book we
flag government-run services and hotels (see the tips on p24), or ones recently leased. Note
that the situation at each place could change and, hopefully, will in the case of Pyin U Lwin
(Maymyo), where the government runs hotels out of some lovely old British homes.
Joint-venture hotels, often rebuilt from scratch at great expense, generally work on a 30-year
lease basis. Big operations do employ many locals, and often at higher wages than elsewhere.
However, its not really known what amount in fees or profit share (beyond the 10% tax) goes
to the government. Some claim its zero, though others dispute this.
Its worth noting that essentially every local has a brother, sister-in-law or uncle thats in either
the military or the government.
All this doesnt necessarily mean that profits go into the generals pockets. Its estimated that
over 80% of tourists expenditure on the ground gets absorbed into local economies.
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y A c t i v i t i e s 333
DIREC TORY
RESPONSIBLE DIVING & SNORKELLING
If you want to enjoy Myanmars underwater realm, remember these simple rules to minimise your
impact:
Dont use anchors on a reef and ask your operators not to either
Be conscious of your fins or your body dragging across fragile reef ecosystems both parties
in question can be hurt
Take out all rubbish or litter, including what you find; plastic in particular can wreak havoc on
marine life
Dont feed fish; it disturbs their normal eating habits and can prompt aggressive behaviour
If youre diving in the Myeik Peninsula, be sure that you possess a current diving certification card
Be aware that underwater conditions vary significantly from one region to the next dive
only within the limits of your experience
full-day snorkelling trips. Its no Great Bar- though murmurs of government involve-
rier Reef, but there are plenty of fish to see ment surround many. In some towns, locals
swimming around a coral tower or two. cant be members. Green fees skyrocket above
The best diving, by far, is at the Mergui the prices for locals, with some courses charg-
(Myeik) Archipelago in southwestern My- ing US$15 or US$20 to play. Be aware that
anmar, which apparently received no dam- some female caddies double as sex workers.
age from the 2004 tsunami. Presently trips
here can be arranged in advance through Rafting
Phuket-based operators, some of whom Since 2003 Ultimate Descents (www.ultimatedes
were gearing up to make the trips following cents.com) has enabled paddlers to make the
the tsunami. A typical trip involves seven first trips down some key tributaries of the
nights onboard a boat, and includes meals, Ayeyarwady in northern Kachin State, at
equipment and transport from Phuket the foothills of the Himalaya. Its best to get
or Ranong (Thailand). Diving or diving/ in touch with the local contact, Ayeyarwaddy
kayaking trips cost from about US$1200 to Expeditions (in Yangon%01-652 809; thelisu@myanmar
US$1500; longer ones that take in part of .com.mm; Suite 03-06, Sedona Hotel, Yangon), to set up a
Thailand are pricier. Many of the islands trip. Four-day trips (with two days trekking)
reached are isolated, with good kayaking on the Nam Lang River start at US$800 per
possibilities. Phuket outfitters must negoti- person (and are run weekly from October to
ate deals with the Myanmar government, April). The very serious, experienced-only
and we hear that sometimes a government three-week descent of the Mayhka River
official tags along for the ride. Trips run (Mother River; aka the Everest of Rivers)
weekly from November to April. costs US$10,000 to US$15,000 per person.
The first trip to the archipelago was in
1996. Some companies work to educate lo- Trekking
cals regarding the negative impact of dyna- Great hiking potential abounds in northern
mite fishing and logging. and eastern Myanmar, particularly in Shan
Reliable outfitters: State. Here are some popular hikes:
Asian Adventures (www.asian-adventures.com) Hsipaw area (p208) Five hours northeast of Mandalay;
Fantasea Divers (www.fantasea.net) offering fine DIY day hikes.
Faraway Sail & Dive (www.far-away.net) Kalaw to Inle Lake (p208) Longhouses and teahouses
South East Asia Liveaboards Co (http://seal-asia.com) freckle the mountain tops on this highlight trek.
Kengtung Area (p196) A very remote area (reached by
Golf air from central Myanmar) near the Thai border; hikes take
Golf courses are everywhere little towns in villages of the Wa people (former head-hunters).
such as Salay (p279) even have rather brown Namhsan (p213) North of Hsipaw; guided hikes in a
courses. Pyin U Lwin (p204) hosts a tourna- far-flung area.
ment in April. Many courses are private, Pindaya area (p178) Near Inle Lake.
DIREC TORY 334 D I R E C T O R Y B u s i n e s s H o u r s www.lonelyplanet.com
rewarding as long as you come well pre-

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR HIKING pared with the right attitude, the physical
Weve heard about some travellers finding requirements and the usual parental pa-
new paths and staying in the hills for a week tience. Lonely Planets Travel with Children,
or more. Most, however, stick with day trips. by Cathy Lanigan, contains useful advice
Here are a few points to consider before on how to cope with kids on the road and
lacing up the boots: what to bring along to make things go more
smoothly. Special attention is paid to travel
Hike with at least one companion; in
in developing countries.
most cases its best to hire a guide
Myanmar people love children dote on
Do not venture by foot into areas them and in many instances will shower
restricted to foreigners; ask around attention on your offspring, who will find
before taking off ready playmates among their local coun-
Camping in the hills is not technically terparts and an impromptu nanny service
legal, as foreigners must be registered at practically every stop.
with local authorities by owners of Due to Myanmars overall low level of
licensed accommodation nightly public sanitation, parents ought to lay down
Trail conditions can get slippery and
a few ground rules with regard to maintain-
dangerous, especially in the rainy season
ing their childrens health such as regular
hand-washing to head off potential medi-
Walk only in regions within your cal problems. All the usual health precau-
capabilities youre not going to find a tions apply (see the Health chapter on p369);
trishaw out there to bring you back children should especially be warned not to
play with animals they encounter along the
way, as a precaution against rabies.
In the past it wasnt feasible to do multiday Nappies (diapers) are hard to come by
treks at least not legally but the practice outside Yangon, but its wise to bring all
is opening up. Generally its necessary to the nappies or formula youll need for the
hire a guide (licensed or otherwise). Rates trip from home. Most high-end hotels and
range from US$4 to US$10 per day, and are restaurants will have high chairs available.
about US$25 in more remote Kengtung.
Climbs up Chin States Mt Victoria (p329) Sights & Activities
require you to take a costly government- Kids, like adults, often get a thrill from little
sponsored tour. things such as rides on trishaws, motorised
canoes and horse carts. While in Bagan,
BUSINESS HOURS give your driver (if you have one) the day
Most government offices including post off and take a horse cart around by your-
offices and official telephone centres are selves (p269). Inle Lakes famous boat trips
open Monday to Friday from 9.30am to (p191) are in dugout canoes. The ancient
4.30pm. Dont arrive at a government of- cities outside Mandalay offer fun, brief
fice at 4pm expecting to get anything done, boat trips. Options include rowing boats in
though; most government workers start the lake by Amarapuras U Beins Bridge
drifting to the local teashops after 3.30pm. (p248), a flat-bed ferry and then an ox-cart
Private shops are generally open daily loop around Inwa (p251), and a boat ride
from 9am (or 9.30am) to 6pm or later. up the Ayeyarwady to Mingun (p254).
Most restaurants even ones without many Big Buddhist sights and ancient ruins
breakfast visitors open at 7am or 8am and can be good gawking material, including
close late, at 9pm or 10pm. Internet cafs, Yangons Shwedagon Paya (p90), the reclin-
where they exist, tend to keep shorter hours. ing Buddhas in Bago (Pegu; see p140) or
Payas (Buddhist monuments), including the 10-storey Buddha in Pyay (Prome; see
pahto (temples), never close. p283). You can climb into the back of the
lacquered Buddha image at Nan Paya in
CHILDREN Salay (p279). Some kids might dig ruins of
As in many places in Southeast Asia, travel- old palace walls and moats, which you can
ling with children in Myanmar can be very see at Bagan and Mrauk U; see p323.
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y C l i m a t e C h a r t s 335
DIREC TORY
CLIMATE CHARTS forgoing music, dancing, jewellery, perfume
Myanmar has three seasons that follow the and high or luxurious beds. Daily sched-
classic dry and hot, wet and hot, dry and ules are rigorous and may involve nearly
less hot pattern common to other parts of continuous practice from 3am till 11pm.
mainland Southeast Asia. Rain falls mostly Students may be given permission to travel
from mid-May to October. In most places, in Myanmar at the end of a long period of
temperatures fall from November to Febru- study, but this is not automatic. Western-
ary, then rise from March through to May. ers who have undergone the training say
See p27 for more information on the best it is not recommended for people with no
times to visit. previous meditation experience.
Average
MANDALAY 74m (250ft) Max/Min VISAS
C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm For practice sessions of less than a month, a
40 104 100 12 300 tourist visa will suffice. To obtain the nec-
30 86 75
essary special-entry visa for a long-term
8 200 stay of more than a month, applicants must
20 68 50 receive a letter of invitation from the centre
4 100 where they would like to study, which may
10 50 25
in turn require a letter of introduction from
0 32 0 0 0 an affiliated meditation centre abroad. This
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
invitation is then presented to a Myanmar
consulate or embassy, which will issue a
Average visa for an initial stay of six to 12 weeks, as
YANGON 14m (46ft) Max/Min
recommended by the centre. It takes eight
C F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
40 104 100 12 300
to 10 weeks to be issued, and cannot be is-
sued while youre in Myanmar on a tourist
30 86 75 visa. The special-entry visa, however, may
8 200
be extended in Yangon.
20 68 50
100
10 50 25
4
CENTRES IN YANGON
The most famous centre in Yangon is the
0 32
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0
Ma hasi Meditation Centre (Map p90; %01-541 971;
16 Thathana Yeiktha Rd, Bahan Township), founded in
1947 by the late Mahasi Sayadaw, perhaps
COURSES Myanmars greatest meditation teacher. The
Meditation Mahasi Sayadaw technique strives for in-
For foreigners interested in meditation, tensive, moment-to-moment awareness of
Yangon provides the most opportunities for every physical movement, every mental and
the study and practice of satipatthana vipas- physical sensation, and, ultimately, every
sana, or insight-awareness meditation. This thought. The centre is off Kaba Aye Paya
is based on instructions in the Maha Sati- Rd, north of Kandawgyi, about 10 minutes
patthana Sutta of the Theravada Buddhist from the city centre or 20 minutes from the
canon, and instruction at most places is in airport. Mahasi is funded by donations.
English. Many Westerners have come to My- Two of the Mahasi centres chief medita-
anmar to practise at the various centres for tion teachers, Sayadaw U Pandita and Say-
periods ranging from 10 days to more than adaw U Janaka, have established their own
a year. Visitors typically attach themselves to highly regarded centres in Yangon: Pandita-
a respected sayadaw (master teacher) in the rama Meditation Centre (%01-535 448; http://web
Buddhist tradition for the duration. .ukonline.co.uk/buddhism/pandita.htm; 80-A Than Lwin Rd,
Bahan Township) and Chanmyay Yeiktha Meditation
CONDITIONS Centre (%01-661 479; www.chanmyay.org; 55-A Kaba
Food and lodging are generally provided Aye Paya Rd). Both have second branches. Pan-
at no charge at the centres, but medita- ditaramas is 3km northeast off the high-
tors must follow eight precepts, which in- way to Bago; Chanmyays branch (%01-620
clude abstaining from food after noon and 321), set among gardens in Hmawbi, is a
DIREC TORY 336 D I R E C T O R Y C u s t o m s www.lonelyplanet.com
50-minute drive north of Yangon. Each of and it will be confiscated. Theres no prob-
these centres represents a slight difference lem if youre on a business visa.
from the Mahasi Sayadaw technique. Any foreign currency in excess of US$2000
Another famous centre is Yangons Inter- must be declared upon entry. Weve heard
national Meditation Centre (%01-535 549; 31-A Inya reports of travellers being arrested for bring-
Myaing Rd), founded by the late U Ba Khin. ing in US$4000 undeclared. Its problem free
The U Ba Khin technique focuses on a deep to declare just a form to fill out. Mobile
appreciation of impermanence and on con- phones may be confiscated and held by
sciously moving or sweeping ones mental customs personnel upon when you arrive
awareness throughout the body. Instruction at Yangon international airport; theyll be
at all of the above centres is given to foreign- returned upon your departure.
ers in English. See p349 for a list of items that cannot be
Another Yangon centre is the Dhamma Joti taken out of the country.
Vipassana Centre (%01-549 290; Nga Htat Gyi Paya Rd,
Bahan Township). DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
For further information on the teachings Considering all the bad news that trickles
of Mahasi Sayadaw and U Ba Khin, read Liv- out of Myanmar, it may sound like a rather
ing Dharma: Teachings of Twelve Buddhist unsafe country to visit. For the vast majority
Masters, edited by Jack Kornfield. of visitors, the truth is quite the opposite.
CENTRES OUTSIDE YANGON Air Travel

Meditation centres can be found outside Yan- Government-operated Myanma Airways
gon, particularly in Sagaing, which is Myan- has a sketchy safety record. In 1994 a flight
mars principal monastic centre in terms of missed the runway at Kawthoung, killing
numbers of monks, nuns, monasteries and 16; in 1998 it took authorities 24 hours to
nunneries. In Sagaing, Kyaswa Kyaung (%072- realise one of its planes had crash-landed
21541; [email protected], [email protected]) near Tachileik, while another flight crashed
hosts a Mahasi Sayadawstyle retreat ori- en route from Thandwe (Sandoway) to Sit-
ented towards foreigners, under the direc- twe, killing 10 passengers.
tion of Sayadaw U Lakkhana.
Just south of Mawlamyine (Moulmein), Bugs, Snakes, Rats & Monkeys
Venerable Pak Auk Sayadaw teaches sati- Mosquitoes, if unfended, can have a field day
patthana vipassana using a penetrative and with you. As a Burmese character in George
highly technical approach at Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Orwells Burmese Days says: At night, mas-
Monastery (%032-22132; www.paauk.org; c/o Major ter too drunk to notice mosquitoes; in the
Kan Saing, 653 Lower Main Rd) in Pa-Auk village. morning, mosquitoes too drunk to notice
Itll cost you though about US$1479 for a master. As alcohol wont help, bring repel-
month, including lodging and meals. lent from home, as the good stuff (other than
mosquito coils) is hard to come by here.
CUSTOMS Also, many guesthouses and hotels dont
Besides personal effects, visitors are permit- have mosquito nets. See also entries on ma-
ted to bring in the following items duty free: laria (p373) and dengue fever (p372).
two cartons of cigarettes, 100 cigars, 0.67kg Myanmar has one of the highest inci-
of tobacco, 500mL of cologne or perfume dences of death from snakebite in the world.
and two bottles of liquor. Technically, cam- Watch your step in brush, forest and grasses.
eras (including video cameras), radios, cas- See p377 for information on what to do if
sette players and iPods can be brought into youre bitten.
the country, but theyre supposed to be de- Rats arent all that rampant. Family-run
clared on arrival and taken out upon depar- guesthouses, like regular homes, might have
ture. In reality no-one ever seems to check, a rodent or two. Wash your hands before
and if you try to declare your cameras on sleeping (weve heard of happy rats licking
arrival youre usually waved on through. If cake-covered fingers clean at night) and try
youre holding a tourist visa, its possible to keep food out of your room. If you trek in
that a laptop computer may make customs Shan State and stay in local accommodation,
officials suspicious that you are a journalist, you may hear little footsteps at night.
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 337
DIREC TORY
Monkeys, too, can get a little friendly Yangon were reported, without injuries, in
in some places. A guide outside Monywa mid-2004 and mid-2003. An explosion in
pointed out natural medicines for not May 2003 in a cinema in Pyu, near Bago,
shitting, shitting and snakebite, but said killed one and injured 47 people.
theres nothing for monkey bites. Monkey Despite treaties between the government
bite is normal, he said. But we think you and most insurgent groups in the late 1990s
should try to minimise your chances of get- that give limited autonomy to many areas,
ting rabies (see p374). violent incidents on the Myanmar-Thai
border could erupt at any time, includ-
Crime ing several outbursts (and bombs) in and
Most travellers memories of locals grab- around Tachileik. Land mines are another
bing your money are of someone chasing threat (on the Myanmar side of the border).
you down because you dropped a K500 note Most travel advisories warn against travel in
(about US$0.50) in the street (you dropped this area, most of which is restricted to for-
this, sister). In remote towns such as Shwebo eigners. Crossing the border here, though,
or Monywa, you can feel pretty confident is likely to be OK, but seek advice first.
leaving a bag on the ground at a bus station In Kayin State, splintered Kayin groups
while you go for a quick tea. But dont tempt live in a potential battleground between
anyone: inflation is rising in an already poor the Karen National Liberation Army and
country (that K500 note is worth at least a government troops. The Myanmar border
half-days work for many). There has been in a restricted area of Kayin between Um
a smattering of reports of street crime, par- Phang and Mae Sariang occasionally receives
ticularly in Yangon, which include burglaries shelling from Myanmar troops in pursuit of
of some expats homes. Exercise guarded Kayin (also known as Karen) or Mon rebels.
caution on vulnerable occasions ie when The risks of catching a piece of shrapnel
youre carrying your bags and when in are substantially lower if you keep several
particularly touristy places. kilometres between yourself and the Thai-
Myanmar border in this area fighting can
Electricity, or Lack Thereof break out at any time.
Power outages everywhere Yangon and The presence of Shan and Wa armies
Mandalay included can render your fan along the Myanmar-Thai border in northern
useless for hours. Many smaller towns have Mae Hong Son makes this area dangerous if
outright short scheduled periods for elec- you attempt to travel near amphetamine-
tricity, such as a few hours in the afternoon and opium-trade border crossings (off lim-
(or in the evening if Myanmar TV is air- its to foreigners); obviously, these arent
ing a premiership game). Many hotels and signposted, so take care anywhere along the
shops run generators 24 hours, and wont border in this area.
be affected. In the past there have been reports of
bandits holding up vehicles at night, most
Insurgents & Bombs commonly in the Tanintharyi (Tenasserim)
Just before this book went to press, Myan- division in southeastern Myanmar often
mar saw some bombs set off, purportedly in pockets restricted to overland travel for
placed there by insurgent groups. In May foreigners.
2005 three bombs at two Yangon shopping Some revolutionaries maintain the sym-
centres and a Thai trade expo killed up to pathy of most locals. In the aftermath of
20 people and injured several hundred. the 1990 election controversy (see p44), a
(At first, the junta blamed the USA for the group of student protestors hijacked a plane
incident; no-one has claimed responsibil- from Bangkok to get worldwide attention,
ity.) During the previous month a bomb and tearfully handed out snacks with apolo-
killed at least three at a Mandalay market. gies to the inconvenienced passengers.
In December 2004 a small bomb went off
at a central Yangon restaurant, injuring one Politics
person. The Vigorous Burmese Student Talking politics can get not only you but also
Warriors supposedly claimed responsibil- the locals youre speaking with into trouble.
ity for this act. A few other explosions in Let them introduce the subject and proceed
DIREC TORY 338 D I R E C T O R Y D i s a b l e d T r a v e l l e r s www.lonelyplanet.com
to talk with discretion. Human-rights activ- to commissions. These small behind-the-

ist James Mawdsley was arrested in 1999 scenes payments are made, like it or not, for
after handing out political leaflets; he was a taxi or trishaw driver or guide who takes
freed after 415 days. (He describes the ex- you to a hotel, to buy a puppet or even to
perience in his 2002 book The Iron Road: A eat some rice. Often it doesnt affect the
Stand for Truth and Democracy in Burma.) price you pay.
Following the 10th anniversary of the 1988 Arriving at a bus station, youre likely to
democracy demonstrations, 18 foreigners be quickly surrounded by touts, some of
were arrested for handing out leaflets. In Jan- whom will try to steer you to a particular
uary 2005 another Westerner was arrested hotel that offers them a commission. Be
for handing out leaflets outside Yangons wary if you hear that your chosen place is
City Hall. no good, though in some cases we found
Be aware that if youre interested in see- that trishaw drivers who had warned us
ing Aung San Suu Kyis house in Yangon, foreigners cant stay there ended up being
or are dropping by an NLD office, you not correct. If you know where you want to go
only risk trouble (possible deportation) but (and its a good idea to pretend to, if you
you implicate your taxi or trishaw driver dont), persist and theyll take you.
too. Guides, trishaw drivers, vendors and See p321 for an example of a commis-
hotel staff are often able to talk at length sions monopoly, which can apply in many
with foreigners without suspicion due to places.
their day-to-day contact with foreigners. Bus tickets in Yangon are sometimes sold
Some can be surprisingly frank in their at inflated prices; see p89.
views. Teahouses carry the reputation as Be wary of offers of fanciful jade or other
being open-discussion forums for some gems Myanmar has rich mines for these
locals but not all. Again, let the local lead precious stones as some are filled with
the conversation that way. worthless rock or concrete mixture.
Many people may approach to say hello
Restricted Roads on the street. In some cases, theyre just
Many overland roads are closed to foreign- curious or perhaps want to practice some
ers. However, in places you can enter there English. In other cases, the conversation
are (perhaps) surprising levels of freedom switches from what country you from? to
to stop and look around where you want. buy some postcards? or where you need
See the map on p359 to see which areas of to go? Its all pretty harmless.
Myanmar were closed to travellers at the Youll be asked to change money fre-
time of research. quently. See p345 for tips on doing so with
caution.
Scams & Hassle
Myanmar touts are pretty minor-league in DISABLED TRAVELLERS
comparison with those in India or the tuk- With its lack of paved roads or footpaths
tuk drivers in Bangkok. Most hassle is due (and even when theyre present the latter
are often uneven) Myanmar presents many
physical obstacles for the mobility-impaired.
ONLINE TRAVEL ADVISORIES Rarely do public buildings feature ramps
Governments advisory websites for people or other access points for wheelchairs, and
travelling to Myanmar: hotels make inconsistent efforts to provide
Australia (www.smarttraveller.gov.au) Click on access to the handicapped (exceptions in-
Travel Advisories. clude the Strand Hotel and the Traders
Canada (www.voyage.gc.ca) Hotel in Yangon; both have some ramping).
UK (%0870 606 0290; www.fco.gov.uk) The Hence youre pretty much left to your own
most comprehensive; click on Travel Advice and resources. Public transport is particularly
select Burma. crowded and difficult, even for the fully
USA (travel.state.gov) See the Consular Information mobile.
Sheet for Burma. For wheelchair travellers, any trip to My-
anmar will require a good deal of planning.
A few useful USA-based organisations you
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y D i s c o u n t C a r d s 339
DIREC TORY
can contact are Accessible Journeys (www.disability Switzerland (%022-731 7540; 47 ave Blanc, 1202 Geneva)
travel.com), which includes info on visiting the Thailand (%02 233-2237; 132 Thanon Sathon Neua,
dodgy border near Tachileik; Mobility Interna- Bangkok 10500)
tional USA (www.miusa.org) and the Society for Ac- UK (%020-7499 8841; 19A Charles St, London W1X 5DX)
cessible Travel & Hospitality (www.sath.org), which USA (%202-332-9044/5/6; 2300 S St NW, Washington,
publishes the magazine Open World. DC 20008)
Vietnam (%04-823 2056; Bldg No A-3, Ground fl, Van
DISCOUNT CARDS Phuc Diplomatic Qrtrs, Kim Ma St, Hanoi)
No can do. However, weve heard some
travellers managing to get a discount with Embassies & Consulates in Myanmar
an International Student Identity Card Yangon can be a good place to get visas for
(ISIC) at monuments in the past. Its more other countries; because it isnt a big tourist
likely that amused staff wanted to give the stopover, visas are usually issued quickly.
travellers what they wanted than any bur- However, embassies for neighbouring
geoning policy change. Senior-citizen cards countries accept only US dollars for pay-
are also unlikely to save any money. ment of visa fees.
Australia (Map p102; %01-251 810, 01-251 809; fax
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES 01-246 159; 88 Strand Rd)
Myanmar Embassies & Consulates Bangladesh (%01-515 275; 11B Thanlwin Rd,
Contact details for some Myanmar embas- Kamayut Township)
sies and consulates: Cambodia (Map p90; %01-549 609; 25 New University
Australia (%02-6273 3811; 22 Arkana St, Yarralumla, Ave, B3/4)
ACT 2600) Canada Affairs handled by Australian embassy
Bangladesh (%02-60 1915; 89B, Rd No 4, Banani, Dhaka) China (Map p98; %01-221 281; 1 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
Cambodia (%023-213663; 181 Preah Norodon Blvd, France (Map p98; %01-212 523, 01-212 532; 102
Boeung Keng Kang 1, Phnom Penh) Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
Canada (%613-232 6434/46; Apt 902-903, 85 Range Germany (Map p90; %01-548 951; fax 01-548 899; 32
Rd, The Sandringham, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 8J6) Nat Mauk Rd)
China (%010-6532 1584/6; 6 Dong Zhi Men Wai St, India (Map p102; %01-282 933; 545-547 Merchant St)
Chaoyang District, Beijing 100600) Indonesia (Map p98; %01-254 465, 01-254 469; 100
France (%01 42 25 56 95; 60 rue de Courcelles, 75008 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha Rd)
Paris) Israel (Map p86; %01-515 155; fax 01-515 116; 15
Germany (%030-206 1570; Zimmerstrasse 56, 10117 Kabaung Rd, Hlaing Township)
Berlin) Italy (Map p90; %01-527 100; 3 Inya Myaing Rd)
India (%011-688 9007/8; No 3/50F Nyaya Marg, Japan (Map p90; %01-549 644; 100 Nat Mauk Rd)
Chanakyapuri, New Delhi 110021) Korea (Map p90; %01-527 142; 97 University Ave Rd)
Indonesia (%021-327 684; 109 Jalan Haji Agus Salim, Laos (Map p98; %01-222 482; A1 Diplomatic Quarters,
Jakarta Pusat) Taw Win St)
Israel (%03-517 0760; 26 Hayarkon St, Tel Aviv 68011) Malaysia (Map p98; %01-220 249; 82 Pyidaungsu
Italy (%06-854 3974, 06-858 63343; Viale Gioacchino Yeiktha Rd)
Rossini, 18, Int 2, 00198 Rome) Nepal (Map p90; %01-545 880; fax 01-549803; 16 Nat
Japan (%03-3441 9291; 8-26, 4-chome, Kita-Shinagawa, Mauk Rd)
Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo 140-0001) Netherlands Affairs handled by German embassy
Laos (%021-314910; Thanon Sok Pa Luang, PO Box 11, New Zealand Affairs handled by UK embassy
Vientiane) Pakistan (Map p98; %01-222 881; 4A Pyay Rd)
Malaysia (%03-4256-0280; 10 Jalan Mengkuang, Philippines (Map p86; %01-558 149; 50 Saya San Rd)
55000 Kuala Lumpur) Singapore (%01-559 001; 238 Dhama Zedi Rd)
Nepal (%01-521 788; Chakupat, Patan Gate, Lalitpur, Sri Lanka (Map p98; %01-222 812; 34 Taw Win St)
Kathmandu) Sweden Affairs handled by UK embassy
Philippines (%02-817 2373; 4th fl, Xanland Center, Switzerland Affairs handled by German embassy
152Amorsolo St, Legaspi Village, Makati, Manila) Thailand (%01-224 550; 73 Manaw Han St)
Singapore (%735-0209; 15 St Martins Dr, Singapore UK (Map p102; %01-256 918; fax 01-254 657; 80 Strand Rd)
257996) USA (Map p102; %01-379 880; fax 01-256 018; 581
South Korea (%02-792-3341; 723-1/724-1 Hannam-Dong Merchant St)
Yongsam-ku, Seoul 140-210) Vietnam (Map p90; %01-548 905; 36 Wingaba Rd)
DIREC TORY 340 D I R E C T O R Y Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s www.lonelyplanet.com
FESTIVALS & EVENTS Union Day (12 February) This day marks Bogyoke Aung
Traditionally, Myanmar follows a 12-month Sans short-lived achievement of unifying Myanmars
lunar calendar, so the dates of old holidays disparate ethnic groups. For two weeks preceding Union
and festivals will vary from year to year (see Day, the national flag is paraded from town to town, and
p351 for a list of the lunar months). My- wherever the flag rests there must be a festival. The lunar
anmar also has a number of more recently month of Tabodwe culminates in a rice-harvesting festival
originated holidays whose dates are fixed on the new-moon day.
according to the Gregorian calendar.
Festivals are drawn out, enjoyable affairs in February/March
Myanmar. They generally take place or cul- Shwedagon Festival The lunar month of Tabaung
minate on full-moon days, but the build-up brings the annual Shwedagon Festival, the largest paya
can last for a while. Theres often a country- pwe (pagoda festival) in Myanmar. The full-moon day in
fair atmosphere about these festivals at Tabaung is also an auspicious occasion for the construction
some convenient location there will be in- of new paya, and local paya pwes are held.
numerable stalls and activities that go on all Peasants Day (2 March) Dedicated to the nations farmers.
night. Pwe (festivals and feasts), music and Armed Forces (or Resistance) Day (27 March) Armed
Myanmar kickboxing bouts will all be part of Forces Day is celebrated with parades and fireworks. Since
the colourful scene. The normally calm My- 1989 the government has made it a tradition to pardon a
anmar people can get really worked up dur- number of prisoners on this day.
ing these festivals at a full-moon festival on
one of our visits to Yangon the supporters of April/May
the defeated favourite in a boxing bout were Buddhas Birthday The full-moon day of Kason is
so enraged that they wrecked the arena, and celebrated as the Buddhas birthday, the day of his
subsequent bouts had to be cancelled. enlightenment and the day he entered nibbana (nirvana).
See p28 for the top 10 festivals. As such, it is known as the thrice-blessed day. The holiday
is celebrated by the ceremonial watering of the sacred
January/February banyan tree. One of the best places to observe this ceremony
Independence Day (4 January) This major public holiday is at Yangons Shwedagon Paya, where a procession of
is marked by a seven-day fair at Yangons Kandawgyi lake, girls carries earthen jars to the pagodas three banyan
and nationwide fairs. trees.
THE WATER FESTIVAL

Around the middle of April, the three-day Thingyan (Water Festival) starts the Myanmar New
Year. This event occurs at the height of the dry and hot season and, as in Thailands Songkran,
it is celebrated in a most raucous manner by throwing buckets of cold water at anyone who
dares to venture into the streets. Foreigners are not exempt!
In cities, temporary stages called pandal (from the Tamil pendel) are erected along main thor-
oughfares. Each pandal is sponsored by various groups, the members of which stand next to
rows of water barrels and douse every person or vehicle that passes by.
On a spiritual level, Myanmar people believe that during this three-day period the king of
the nat (spirit beings), Thagyamin, visits the human world to tally his annual record of the good
deeds and misdeeds humans have performed. Villagers place flowers and sacred leaves in front
of their homes to welcome the nat. Thagyamins departure on the morning of the third day
marks the beginning of the new year, when properly brought-up young people wash the hair
of their elder kin, Buddha images are ceremonially washed, and hpongyi (monks) are offered
particularly appetising alms food.
Although the true meaning of the festival is still kept alive by ceremonies such as these,
nowadays its mainly a festival of fun. In between getting soaked, there will be dancing, singing
and theatre. And drinking. In theatre, the emphasis is on satire particularly making fun of the
government, the latest female fashions and any other items of everyday interest. Cultural taboos
against women acting in a boisterous manner are temporarily lifted, so women can kidnap young
men, blacken these mens faces with soot or oil, bind their hands and dunk their heads in buckets
of water until they surrender and perform a hilarious monkey dance for the women.
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Water Festival (or Thingyan) This is the celebration of areas, and notably at Yangons Shwedagon Paya, there
the Myanmar New Year. See opposite for more details. are also speed-weaving competitions to produce robes
Workers Day (1 May) Although the government for Buddha images between dusk and dawn. The results,
renounced socialism in 1989, the country still celebrates finished or not, are donated to the monks.
May Day as Workers Day. Kahtein Tazaungmon also brings kahtein, a one-month
period at the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat during
June/July which new monastic robes and requisites are offered to the
Martyrs Day (19 July) This date commemorates the monastic community. Many people simply donate cash;
assassination of Bogyoke Aung San and his comrades on kyat notes are folded and stapled into floral patterns
that day in 1947. Wreaths are laid at Bogyoke Aung Sans on wooden trees called padetha and offered to the
mausoleum north of the Shwedagon Paya in Yangon. monasteries.
Start of the Buddhist Rains Retreat The full moon National Day Myanmars national day falls in late
of Waso is the beginning of the three-month Buddhist November or early December.
Rains Retreat (sometimes referred to as Buddhist Lent).
Lay people present monasteries with stacks of new robes November/December
for resident monks. Ordinary people are also expected to be Nadaw During Nadaw, many nat pwe (spirit festivals) are
rather more religious during this time marriages do not held; Nadaw is spelt with the characters for nat and taw (a
take place, and it is inauspicious to move house. This is also respectful honorific).
the traditional time for young men to temporarily enter Christmas Despite Myanmars predominantly Buddhist
the monasteries. background, Christmas Day is a public holiday in deference
to the many Christian Kayin, Kachin and Chin. Many shops
July/August sell artificial trees and lights.
Wagaung Festival At the festival during Wagaung, lots
are drawn to see who will have to provide monks with December/January
their alms. If youre in Mandalay, try to get to Taungbyone, Kayin New Year Held on the first waxing moon of
about 20km to the north, where there is a noisy seven-day Pyatho, the Kayin New Year is considered a national holiday.
festival to keep the nat happy (see p61 for more on this Kayin communities throughout Myanmar celebrate by
festival). wearing their traditional dress of woven tunics over red
longyi (sarong-style lower garments) and by hosting folk-
September/October dancing and singing performances. The largest celebrations
Boat Races This is the height of the wet season, so what are held in the Kayin suburb of Insein, just north of Yangon,
better time to hold boat races? Theyre held in rivers, lakes and in Hpa-an, the capital of Kayin State.
and even ponds all over Myanmar, but the best place to Ananda Festival This festival, held at the Ananda Paya
be is Inle Lake, where the Buddha images at the Phaung in Bagan, also takes place during Pyatho.
Daw Oo Paya are ceremonially toured around the lake in
the huge royal barge, the Karaweik. The Phaung Daw Oo Paya Pwe
festival comes just before the festival of Thadingyut (see In addition to these main pan-Myanmar
below) and usually overlaps in late September and early festivals, nearly every active paya or kyaung
October. community hosts occasional celebrations of
Thadingyut During Thadingyut, the Buddhist Rains its own, often called paya pwe or pagoda
Retreat comes to an end and all those couples who had festivals in Burmese English. Some get
been putting off marriage now rush into each others arms. quite rollicking even to the point of nov-
Monks are free to travel from kyaung (monastery) to kyaung ice monks throwing fireworks at the feet of
or to go on pilgrimages to holy spots such as Kyaiktiyo or passers-by. The typical paya pwe features the
Mt Popa. For the three days of the festival all of Myanmar same kinds of activities as a major festival
is lit by oil lamps, fire balloons, candles and even mundane craft and food vendors, music and dance
electric lamps. Every house has a paper lantern hanging on a smaller scale. The biggest proliferation
outside. Its a happy time, and is particularly eventful in of paya pwe occurs on full-moon days and
Mandalay. nights from January to March, following
the main rice harvest, providing local paddy
October/November farmers and their families with a good ex-
Tazaungmon The full-moon night of Tazaungmon is an cuse to party. The festivals also offer added
occasion for another festival of lights, known properly as market venues for local basket-weavers,
Tazaungdaing. Its particularly celebrated in Shan State potters, woodcarvers, blacksmiths, longyi-
in Taunggyi there are fire-balloon competitions. In some weavers and other artisans.
DIREC TORY 342 D I R E C T O R Y F o o d www.lonelyplanet.com
Particular paya pwe are described in the Strand Rd, and at the Patty OMalleys pub
appropriate destination sections through- in the Sedona Hotel (p112). On the Chinese
out this guidebook. border, remote Mong La (p201) is home to
A few highlights include Nayon (May/ a bit of a gay and transvestite scene.
June) and Nadaw (November/December) at The following websites have information
Mt Popa (p278); Pyatho (December/January) about gay and lesbian travel and rights,
at Bagans Ananda Pahto (p300) and the big- though they contain nothing specific to
gest, in August, at Taungbyone, north of Man- Myanmar:
dalay (p61). www.damron.com
www.gay.com
FOOD www.iglta.com
Most restaurants are quite cheap (around
US$1 or US$2 per person including beer), so Track human-rights progress at the web-
we havent divided them into budget, mid- site for the International Gay & Lesbian Human
range and top-end categories in this book. Rights Commission (www.iglhrc.org) or site for The
See p74 for more on the types of cuisine and Gully (www.thegully.com).
restaurants youll find in Myanmar.
A 10% government tax is applied to HOLIDAYS
prices at upmarket restaurants in Yangon Major public holidays include Independence
and in top-end hotel restaurants. Day (January 4), Peasants Day (March 2),
Armed Forces (or Resistance) Day (March
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS 27), Workers Day (May 1), National Day
Most of Myanmars ethnic groups are very (late November or early December) and
tolerant of homosexuality, both male and Christmas (December 25). Government of-
female. Generally a local woman walking fices take just about any excuse for taking
with a foreign man will raise more eyebrows the day off, though many private businesses
than two same-sex travellers sharing a room. remain open. For a broader list of festivals
Muslim and Christian Myanmar commu- and events see p340.
nities are the exceptions, but as they form
relatively small minorities they rarely foist INSURANCE
their world perspectives on people of other A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss
faiths. and medical problems is a very wise idea.
Public displays of affection whether There is a wide variety of policies, and your
heterosexual or homosexual are frowned travel agent will have recommendations.
upon. Check the travel-insurance-policy finder
Although its difficult to tell, given the at www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services
opaqueness of the current military-directed /trvl_trvlinsurance.cfm, which gives sample
government which contains no true judi- prices for policies, including those covering
ciary branch there appear to be no laws emergency evacuation. Also, international
that discriminate against homosexuals. travel policies handled by STA Travel and
Certainly we have never heard of anyone other student-travel organisations are usu-
facing prosecution or arrest for homosexual ally good value. Some policies offer lower
behaviour. In 2001 the All Burma Students and higher medical-expenses options, but
Democratic Front (ABSDF) decriminalised the higher ones are chiefly for countries
same-sex acts, opening up their prodemoc- that have extremely high medical costs,
racy movement to gay and lesbian members such as the USA.
for the first time. See p369 for advice on health insurance.
The gay and lesbian scene around the
country is relatively low-key its certainly INTERNET ACCESS
nowhere near as prominent as in neigh- Internet was introduced in 2001, and the
bouring Thailand. Whether in terms of first Internet caf started operation in
dress or mannerism, lesbians and gays are 2002. Despite government efforts at re-
generally accepted without comment. Yan- striction, the impact has been huge and
gon has the biggest active gay scene, paris poised to grow. The costs are prohibi-
ticularly at the Silver Oak Caf (p118) near tively expensive for many, and possessing
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y Le g a l M a t t e r s 343
DIREC TORY
a modem or fax machine without permis- would most likely be permitted to contact
sion is a crime. your consular agent in Myanmar for pos-
Internet access outside Myanmars belly sible assistance.
(roughly from Yangon to Mandalay, includ- If you purchase gems or jewellery from
ing Bagan and Inle Lake) wanes to non persons or shops that are not licensed by
existence. As the Internet is relatively new the government, you run the risk of having
to Myanmar, the situation is likely to im- the goods confiscated if customs officials
prove over time. find them in your baggage when youre ex-
Access is sometimes clunky. In Yangon iting the country. Journalists often claim a
or Mandalay options abound and access different profession in order to get a visa,
costs about K1000 per hour. In places such and they risk deportation if authorities
as Inle Lake, Bagan, Pyin U Lwin and Nga- suspect that theyre researching a political
pali Beach prices rise to K3000 per hour. expos while in the country.
Even off-the-beaten-track towns such as Drugs are another area where you must
Shwebo and Sittwe have Internet. Presently be very careful. We know of a French travel-
you cannot access the Internet from hotel ler arrested for possession of opium or her-
rooms. oin in Kengtung and held for several weeks
Often links are quicker early in the morn- before he was able to bribe his way out.
ing or at periods during the day; they can Many foreigners have foolishly entered
get clunky when residents hit the local chat Myanmar illegally from northern Thailand,
rooms in the evening, sometimes contact- but not all have succeeded in avoiding ar-
ing people overseas. rest. In late 1998 three Western motor-
At the time of research, the government cyclists crossed illegally from Thailands
had banned the use of Yahoo and Hot- Mae Hong Son Province into Shan State;
mail in the country, in a rather vain at- they were held for three months before
tempt to censor incoming information, but being released and deported.
sites for the BBC (www.bbc.co.uk) and the New
York Times (www.nytimes.com) and even www MAPS
.espn.com were available at most Internet Country Maps
cafs. Email accounts that end in something If you want a map before you go, the best
other than .com are sometimes easier to available is the 1:2,000,000 Periplus Edi-
access than those that do. Secondary email tions Myanmar Travel Map, a folded map
services, such as www.walla.com, became with plans for Mandalay, Yangon and the
restricted at the time of research. Bagan area. The inferior Nelles Myanmar,
There are two ISPs: a dial-up service con- a folded map on coated stock, contains
trolled by the Ministry of Telecommuni- many errors and splits the country in half
cations and a broadband service called on either side, but its also easily available
Bagan Cybertech, which was run by former outside Myanmar. Good places to buy maps
prime minister Khin Nyunts son until he online include Travel Maps and Books (www
was ousted (its now operated by the mili- .itmb.com) and MapLink (www.maplink.com).
tary, we hear). In Yangon you can pick up the full-
Some fine sources of online information colour, folded Tourist Map of Myanmar,
can be found on p29. published on coated stock by Design Print-
ing Services (DPS), from many hotels and
LEGAL MATTERS bookshops. Sometimes you can grab one
The Myanmar government includes no ju- free at the Yangon Airport arrival hall; in
diciary branch separate from the executive some places it costs up to K1000.
powers vested by force of totalitarian rule The Myanmar governments Survey De-
in the Tatmadaw (military). So you have partment publishes a very good paper sheet
absolutely no legal recourse in case of arrest map of the country, simply entitled My-
or detainment by the authorities, regardless anmar, which has a scale of 1:2,000,000.
of the charge. Foreign visitors engaging in Its big, and the noncoated paper decays
political activism (such as James Mawds- rapidly. You can often find it on sale from
ley; see p337) risk deportation or imprison- vendors on Bogyoke Aung San Rd in Yan-
ment. However, if you were arrested you gon, just east of the market.
DIREC TORY 344 D I R E C T O R Y M o n e y www.lonelyplanet.com
Myanmars Survey Department also ATMs

publishes a multipage 1997 Myanmar Atlas, Myanmar has no ATMs (automatic teller
complete with colour relief but it is labelled machines).
in the Bamar language only. This atlas pro-
vides the most up-to-date and detailed set Banks
of maps available. If youre lucky you may In 2003 Myanmars 20 private banks col-
find it for sale among the book vendors in lapsed, and economic bans by the EU and
Yangon. the USA sent 38 foreign bank representatives
packing, rendering credit cards and travel-
City Maps lers cheques useless in the country. The few
DPS publishes very useful and fairly de- national banks that remain are of little use
tailed city maps of Yangon Mandalay, and to travellers, as official exchange rates mas-
the extremely useful plan for Bagan. As sively overvalue the kyat. So theres really no
with its Tourist Map of Myanmar, these city reason to exchange money at a bank.
maps are printed on durable coated stock.
Theyre available from various hotels and Cash
bookshops in Yangon, and to a lesser de- Most guesthouses and hotels quote prices
gree in Mandalay and Bagan. They usually in US dollars. These places usually accept
cost K500. If you anticipate spending a lot kyat, but at a slightly disadvantageous
of time in the capital, look for a new DPS rate (say K1000 to each US$1, rather than
bilingual atlas, The Map of Yangon, which is K950). If youre counting pennies, bring
a detailed street and place directory. lots of small US dollar bills ones, fives and
Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) also 10s and use them to pay for your hotel.
prints city maps oriented towards tourists, Many hotels, shops and government ferry
but they tend to be out of date and less clerks are reluctant to give change in for-
detailed. These maps are available from the eign currency and instead offer kyat (youll
MTT office (Map p102; Sule Paya Rd) in Yangon, or lose a little in the conversion).
from individual MTT offices in other major Government-run services (such as ar-
towns and cities. chaeological sites, museums and ferries) and
flights are paid for in US dollars or FEC (see
MONEY opposite) not euros; in some cases you may
Myanmars national currency, the kyat be able to beg to pay in kyat (at a slightly
(pronounced chat, and abbreviated K) is worse exchange rate than on the street), but
divided into the following banknotes: K1, airlines tend to accept dollars only.
K5, K10, K15, K20, K45, K50, K90, K100, Items such as meals, bus tickets, trishaw
K200, K500 and K1000. See the inside front or taxi rides, bottles of water and market
cover for exchange rates as this book was items are usually quoted in kyat.
going to press. Considering the economys
freefall, and rising inflation, rates are likely Credit Cards & Travellers Cheques
to change. At research time, credit cards and travellers
See p27 for details on costs in Myanmar cheques were essentially useless in Myan-
and p24 for tips on spreading your budget mar. Surprised tourists in Yangon found
through the private sector rather than to themselves helpless trying to use them. De-
the government. pending on how the banking situation and
international sanctions develop, this may
change. However, a few businesses (includ-
KYAT & DOLLARS ing hotels see below) are able to accept
Prices in this book alternate between kyat credit cards or cash travellers cheques be-
and US dollars, depending on the currency cause of a processing system linked outside
in which prices are quoted. Be careful to the country, usually in Singapore. But its
keep some US dollars with you in case unwise to count on using credit cards or
youre turned back by a strict and unbend- travellers cheques.
ing museum cashier who will not take kyat. Many travellers pre-book hotels usually
For more information, see right. top-end joint-venture ones using credit
cards online.
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Some upscale hotels in Yangon can ex- Before handing over, say US$500, one
change travellers cheques for a 3% to 10% idea is to change just US$100 first. Count
commission. In Mandalay, the Sedona the notes, and then take them back to your
Hotel (p238) accepts credit cards (Visa and room and re-count. If alls OK, return with
Mastercard are your best bets), and a lone more money even with the caveat that
shop accepts travellers cheques for a 20% you may need to change more later on,
commission. to help ensure youll have good reason to
be back.
Moneychangers Nothing spells u.n.i.n.f.o.r.m.e.d t.o.u.r.i.s.t
You will be asked to change money many more than changing money at the airport.
times on your trip. Technically, the only The airport exchange counter, at research
reasonable way to exchange currency for time, gave K450 for US$1, while the worst
kyat is through the black market mean- black-market exchange rate around the
ing from shops, hotels, travel agents, restau- country was about K925. If youve just ar-
rants or less reliable guys on the street. You rived, you can use a few US dollars to pay
can change US dollars or euros in Yangon, for your taxi to the centre, then find a better
but generally only US dollars elsewhere. rate in town.
Rest assured; hanging money on the black
market is accepted in Myanmar. FECs
Moneychangers accept crisp, clean, un- Previously, all travellers entering the country
creased bills. The newer (and the higher had to exchange US$200 into FEC (Foreign
in denomination) the better. The US$100 Exchange Certificates), the governments
bill gets a slightly better exchange rate than primary way of acquiring dollars from tour-
a US$50 or US$20, and so on. Erroneous ists. This requirement was suspended in-
rumours of some counterfeit notes have definitely in August 2003 (though word
meant that many moneychangers wont hasnt spread to everyone in the country
trade bills that start with the serial numbers yet). Some government businesses such as
CB. Dont expect to change any rumpled, Myanma Airways and museums may still
torn bills. quote prices in FEC, and technically they
Its safest to change money in hotels or can still be used anywhere. Most private
shops, rather than on the street. The mon- shops prefer foreign currency. One FEC is
eychangers standing around just east of the equal to US$1.
Mahabandoola Garden in Yangon have a
reputation for short-changing new arrivals Tipping, Donations & Bribes
for several thousand kyat. Tipping as known in the West is not cus-
Never hand over your money until youve tomary in Myanmar, though little extra pres-
received the kyat and counted them. Hon- ents are sometimes expected (even if theyre
est moneychangers will expect you do this. not asked for) in exchange for a service (such
Considering that K1000 is the highest note as unlocking a locked temple at Bagan, help-
(roughly US$1), youll get a lot of notes. ing move a bag at the airport, showing you
Moneychangers give ready-made, rubber- around the sights of a village).
banded stacks of a hundred K1000 bills. Its Almost all paya, pahto and kyaung are
a good idea to check each note individually. free to enter. Its a good idea to keep some
Often youll find one or two (or more) with small notes (K50, K100, K200) when visit-
a cut corner, or taped together, neither of ing kyaung, as donations may be asked for.
which anyone will accept. We heard from Also, you may wish to leave a donation.
some travellers that Yangon moneychang- In the past, many travellers have offered
ers have asked for a commission. a little tea money to officials in order to
Many travellers do the bulk of their ex- help expedite bureaucratic services such as
changing in Yangon, where you can get visa extensions or getting a seat on a sold
about K100 more per dollar than elsewhere, out flight. You shouldnt have to do this.
then carry the stacks of kyat for a couple of If you overstay your visa, youll often pay a
weeks around the country. Considering the US$3 fee for the paperwork, in addition to
relative safety from theft, its not a bad idea, the (actual) US$3 penalty per day. See p352
but you can exchange money elsewhere. for more details. At the time of research, an
DIREC TORY 346 D I R E C T O R Y P h o t o g r a p h y & V i d e o www.lonelyplanet.com
author was asked pay an extra few thousand is a more reliable way of sending out bigger
kyat to board a perfectly legal bus! packages though you can only send docu-
Drivers of pick-ups charge a little extra ments to the USA, because of the sanctions;
to sit in the front seat, but they do that for you cant even send postcards. Rates to send
locals too. a 0.5/1kg package to Europe are US$65/76,
See also p338 for details on the commis- Australia US$50/56 and Canada US$65/77
sions paid to guides and drivers. (not including an 8% security charge).
Theres also a useful DHL branch at the
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO Traders Hotel in Yangon (p110).
Some Internet cafs can burn digital photos For larger air- or sea-freight shipments,
onto a CD for about K1000, but you should Express Air & Sea Transportation Co (EAST; %01-
have your own adapter. Colour film Fuji 667 057; 14A A1 Lane, 9 Mile, A1 Compound, Yangon) is
and Kodak is widely available in Yangon recommended.
and Mandalay, a bit less so in smaller towns.
Photo-supply shops dont often sell cameras, SHOPPING
but they can develop film. Usually its about There are some good bargains to be had
K200 to develop a roll, then K50 per photo in Myanmar, particularly for textiles and
printed. Avoid taking photographs of mili- handicrafts. Its a good idea to seek out
tary facilities, uniformed individuals, road local artisans and buy handicrafts directly
blocks and bridges. Aung Sang Suu Kyis from them, rather than directing profits to-
home is absolutely off limits to all photo- wards government-owned shops. See p28
graphers. Weve heard of travellers who took for a list of top souvenirs.
photos of the house having their film con- In larger towns and cities, bargains are
fiscated. Most locals are not at all unhappy usually found in the public markets, called
about being photographed, but please ask zei, or zay, in Burmese. The main central
first. If you have a digital camera with a dis- market is often called zeigyo (also spelt
play screen, some locals (kids, monks, any- zei-gyo or zay-cho); other markets will be
one) will be overjoyed to see their image. named after the district or township where
Some sights, including some payas and theyre found.
other religious sites, charge a camera fee of Though the Bogyoke Aung San Market
K100 or so. Usually a video camera fee is in Yangon (p121) and the zeigyo in Man
a little more. dalay (p242) offer many arts and crafts
For tips on how to shoot photos, pick from around the country, its not a bad idea
up Lonely Planets Travel Photography: A to buy items where they are made. Some
Guide to Taking Better Pictures. regional specialties are not widespread (eg
cotton and silk shirts at Inle Lake, best-
POST quality parasols at Pindaya and Pathein,
Most mail out of Myanmar seems to get regional longyi styles, and Bagans lacquer-
to its destination quite efficiently, though ware selection).
occasionally we hear reports of something The big hotel shops, the large air-con
never arriving. handicrafts emporiums and the shops in
International-postage rates are a bargain the departure lounge at Yangon airport are
at least. A postcard, including registration, very expensive.
is K75; a letter K80. If youre blind, you Outside the hotel shops, haggling is gen-
can send mail for free! Theres a free poste- erally in full force, and very few things have
restante service on the 2nd floor of Yangons marked prices. Often the acceptable selling
main post office (Map p102; Strand Rd; h7.30am-6pm price is about half of what is originally of-
Mon-Fri). fered; cheaper items, such as T-shirts, are
Officially, post offices all over Myanmar less likely to drop that much.
are supposed to be open from 9.30am to
3.30pm or 4pm Monday to Friday, but in Antiques
reality the staff open and close the office Although theyre not all as ancient as theyre
when they feel like it. made out to be, a-le (opium weights) are
DHL Worldwide Express (in Yangon %01-664 423, popular things to collect. These are the lit-
in Mandalay %02-39274; 7A Kaba Aye Pagoda Rd, Yangon) tle animal shapes in descending sizes that
www.lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y S h o p p i n g 347
DIREC TORY
are traditionally used for weighing opium, up English-language magazines such as
gems and other precious goods. Newsweek and Time.
The older system of scales used a series
of nine weights; the newer system uses Clothing & Shoes
six weights. Production of the traditional LONGYIS
zoomorphic weights came to a halt once the Myanmar is the only country in Southeast
British colonial administration standardised Asia where the majority of the population
the system of weights and measures in 1885. wear non-Western clothes as part of their
The pre-1885 weights were made of bronze; everyday dress. Native fabrics are for the
reproductions made for the tourist trade are most part limited to the longyi.
usually brass. The most common animal fig- Men wear ankle-length patterns of checks,
ures are to-aung (a creature that looks like plaids or stripes. To tie them they gather
a cross between a bull and a lion), hintha (a the front of the longyi to create two short
swan-like bird) and karaweik (the Myanmar lengths of material, then twist them into a
crane). Folding scales in carved wooden half-knot, tucking one end in at the waist
boxes go with the weights. If you can, check while allowing the other to protrude from
prices in shops in Bangkok before blithely the knot. Any kind of shirt, from a T-shirt
looking for bargains in Myanmar. to the formal mandarin-collar eingyi, may
be worn with a mans longyi. On very formal
KAMMAWA & PARABAIK occasions such as weddings, the gaung-baung
Kammawa (from the Pali kammavacha) (Bamar turban) is added to the outfit.
are narrow, rectangular slats painted with Burmese women favour calf-length longyi
extracts from the Pali Vinaya the Pitaka in solid colours, stripes or flower prints,
concerned with monastic discipline; specifi- topped off by a form-fitting, waist-length
cally, extracts to do with clerical affairs. The blouse. A black waistband is stitched along
core of a kammawa page may be a thin slat the waist end, which is folded in front to
of wood, lacquered cloth, thatched cane or form a wide pleat, then tucked behind the
thin brass, which is then layered with red, waistband to one side. The most expensive
black and gold lacquer to form the script designs tend to feature wavy or zigzag acheiq
and decorations. patterns, the rarest of which are woven using
The parabaik (Buddhist palm-leaf manu- a hundred or more spools of thread and
script) is a similarly horizontal book, this called lun-taya (hundred-spool) acheiq.
time folded accordion-style, like a road
map. The pages are made of heavy paper OTHER ITEMS
covered with black ink on which the let- Simple flip-flops with leather soles and vel-
ters are engraved; some parabaik may fea- vet thongs are the most common footwear
ture gouache illustrations, and some can for both men and women. If you need them
be erased and written over again. Typical big, some shops can have them tailor-made
parabaik contain Jataka (stories from the for you in about three days.
Buddhas past lives) or royal chronicles. Tailoring in Myanmar is very inexpen-
Both kammawa and parabaik are among sive compared with just about anywhere
the items prohibited for export though else in the world. Many of the textiles seen
its difficult to say how well this is enforced. in tailors shops are imported synthetics.
Plenty are for sale in high-end shops in So, if you want, say, a shirt made from pure
Bangkok and Chiang Mai. cotton, consider buying a longyi and having
the tailor cut and sew from that.
Books Trousers, of the same cut as those sold in
Bookshops are plentiful, but for English- Thailand as fishermans pants, can be found
language books (and those in some other in Shan State, particularly around Inle Lake
foreign languages), Yangons Bagan Book- but also in Hsipaw. Unlike the Thai variety,
shop (p87) is by far the best place to dig up those sold in Myanmar are made of thicker,
old Myanmar-related books. Here you may hand-woven cotton and use natural dyes.
find many regional-based books such as You can also get high-quality jeans (fake
for Mrauk U that are not available else- Levis etc) for about US$14 in some Yangon
where. Yangon is also the best place to pick malls.
DIREC TORY 348 D I R E C T O R Y S h o p p i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
Jewellery & Precious Stones HISTORY

Myanmar generates a considerable income The earliest lacquerware found in Myan-
from the mining of precious stones, mostly mar can be dated to the 11th century and
in the north. Be very wary of people who sported a very Chinese style. The tech-
come to you with stories of large profits to niques used today are known as yun, the
be had by taking Myanmar gemstones to sell old Bamar word for the people of Chiang
in Western countries. Mai, where the techniques were imported
Precious stones are supposed to be a gov- from (along with some captured artisans)
ernment monopoly, and the government is in the 16th century by King Bayinnaung.
very unhappy about visitors buying stones An older style of applying gold or silver to
from anywhere other than licensed retail a black background dates back to, perhaps,
shops. If any stones are found when your the Pyay era (5th to 9th centuries) and is
baggage is checked on departure, they may kept alive by artisans in Kyaukka (p260),
be confiscated unless you can present a near Monywa.
receipt showing that they were purchased
from a government-licensed dealer. HOW ITS MADE & WHAT TO LOOK FOR
The finer imperial-jade or pigeon-blood Many lacquerware shops in Kyaukka
rubies can only be purchased at exclusive spe- (p260), Myinkaba (p275) and New Bagan
cial dealer sessions during the government- (Bagan Myothit; p277) include active
sponsored Myanmar Gems, Jade & Pearl workshops, where you can see the long-
Emporium held each year in October, De- winded process involved in making the
cember and February in Yangon. bowls, trays and other objects. The crafts-
Still, many visitors manage to buy stones person first weaves a frame (the best-
from unlicensed dealers, who far outnum- quality wares have a bamboo frame tied
ber those who are licensed. The govern- together with horse or donkey hairs; lesser
ment turns a blind eye to most domestic pieces are made wholly from bamboo). The
trade; Mandalays jade market (p242) is an lacquer is then coated over the framework
example. and allowed to dry. After several days it
Black-market prices are considerably is sanded down with ash from rice husks,
lower than prices found in licensed retail and another coating of lacquer is applied.
shops, but of course the risk of being conned A high-quality item may have seven to 15
is far greater as well. The best place to buy layers altogether.
unlicensed stones is at the source, where The lacquerware is engraved and
fakes are much less common. The catch is painted, then polished to remove the paint
that, of the main mines Mogok (Sagaing from everywhere except from within the
Division), Pyinlon (Shan State), Maingshu engravings. Multicoloured lacquerware is
(Shan State), Myaduang (Kayah State) and produced by repeated engraving, painting
parts of Kachin State only Mogok can be and polishing. From start to finish it can
visited, and this can be done only on ex- take up to five or six months to produce
pensive government-sponsored tours (see a high-quality piece of lacquerware, which
p229). may have as many as five colours. A top-
quality bowl can have its rim squeezed to-
Lacquerware gether until the sides meet without suffering
Probably the most popular purchase in My- any damage or permanent distortion.
anmar is lacquerware youll find bowls,
trays, boxes, containers, cups, vases and Parasols
other everyday items (including tables!) The graceful and beautifully painted lit-
on sale in the main markets of Yangon tle parasols you see around Myanmar are
and Mandalay; in the entrance walks to cheap and a product of the port of Pathein
Mahamuni Paya in Mandalay; and most (p134) in fact theyre known in Myanmar
particularly in Bagan, where most of the as Pathein hti (Pathein umbrellas). Every-
lacquerware is made. day parasols have wooden handles, and
If you purchase large lacquerware items, the more ceremonial ones have handles of
most shops will wrap and crate them for silver. The Bogyoke Aung San Market in
you for easier shipping. Yangon is another place to look.
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Tapestries bronze or clay pipes; kammawa or parabaik;
Along with lacquerware, tapestries (kalaga) inscribed stones; inscribed gold or silver; his-
are one of the better bargains in Myanmar. torical documents; religious images; sculp-
They consist of pieces of coloured cloth tures or carvings in bronze, stone, stucco
of various sizes heavily embroidered with or wood; frescoes (even fragments); pottery;
silver- or gold-coloured thread, metal se- and national regalia and paraphernalia.
quins and glass beads, and feature mytho-
logical Myanmar figures in padded relief. SOLO TRAVELLERS
The greatest variety is found in Mandalay, For some travellers, the already hospitable
where most tapestries are produced, but locals are even more so if youre travelling
the mark-up can be high because of touts alone. Solo travellers will likely attract more
taking you there. Try to locate shops on questions on the matter. Nearly all accom-
your own and go by bike and bargain modation options have reduced rates for
for the best prices. You can also purchase single rooms. However, some side trips
tapestries in Yangon at craft shops in the (which require you to hire a boat, taxi or
Bogyoke Aung San Market (p121). big horse cart) will mean extra expenses
Good-quality kalaga are tightly woven that could otherwise be shared. Generally,
and dont skimp on sequins, which may outside budget guesthouses in bigger desti-
be sewn in overlapping lines, rather than nations, the easiest way to meet fellow trav-
spaced side by side, as a sign of embroidery ellers is on transport where you can roam a
skill. The metals used should shine, even bit, such as boat rides.
in older pieces; tarnishing means lower-
quality materials. Age is not necessarily TELEPHONE
a factor in the items value except when
related to better-quality work. Prices vary Approach the telephone with a prayer.
according to size and quality; they range Aung San Suu Kyi
from US$5 to US$10 for smaller squares to
US$65 for larger ones. Most business cards in Myanmar purposely
list a couple of phone numbers, and a mo-
Woodcarving & Puppets bile (cell) phone number, as lines frequently
You can still find some pleasantly carved go dead and calls just dont go through.
new Buddha images and other items from Many streetside stands have phones that
workshops in Mandalay or in the corridors can be used to make local calls in town or
leading to Shwedagon Paya in Yangon, but around the country for a couple of hundred
in general you wont see much woodcarv- kyat; you can also make calls from many
ing on sale. shops (look for a drawing of a phone hang-
Older items from the Amarapura, Yadan- ing outside).
apon and Mandalay periods are plentiful, Official telephone (call) centres are some-
but you cant be sure that Myanmar cus- times the only way to call overseas, though
toms will allow them out of the country sometimes this can be done on the street
(and its not a good idea to remove historical too. Generally, it costs about US$4 or US$5
items for your personal use elsewhere any- per minute to call Australia or Europe and
way). Again, the high-end antique shops of US$5 or US$6 per minute to phone North
Bangkok and Chiang Mai seem to have an America. Often youll be asked to pay in
endless supply of pieces that once graced US dollars, but many government phone
Burmese kyaung. centres will accept kyat after a moment of
Wooden puppets, old and new (cheapies hesitation.
go for as little as US$2 or US$3 in Mandalay Like electronic devices, all mobile phones
and Yangon), are other popular items. must be declared upon arrival; these dont
work here only satellite phones do, but
Export Restrictions this type of phone is trickier to get past
The following items cannot legally be taken immigration. Mobile-phone numbers in
out of the country: prehistoric implements Myanmar begin with %09.
and artefacts; fossils; old coins; bronze or A useful resource is the Myanmar Yellow
brass weights (including opium weights); Pages (www.myanmaryelowpages.biz).
DIREC TORY 350 D I R E C T O R Y Ti m e www.lonelyplanet.com
train times (eg 16.00 instead of 4pm). For

CALLING MYANMAR an idea of comparative times around the
To call Myanmar from abroad, dial your world, see the map on p392.
countrys international access code, then
%95 (Myanmars country code), the area TOILETS
code (minus the 0) and the five- or six- Toilets, when you need them most (at bus
digit number. To dial long distance within stops, off the highway), are often at their
Myanmar, dial the area code (including the worst. Outside most guesthouses, hotels
0) and the number. Area codes for selected and upscale restaurants, squat toilets are
towns and cities: the norm. Most squat toilets are located
Aungban %069 down a dirt path behind a house. Usually
Bagan %02 & %061 next to the toilet is a cement reservoir filled
Bago %052 with water, and a plastic bowl lying nearby.
Chauk %061 This has two functions: as a flush and for
Dawei (Tavoy) %036 people to clean their nether regions while
Heho %059 still squatting over the toilet. Toilet paper
Hinthada %044 is available at shops all over the country,
Hpa-an %058 but not often at toilets. Some places charge
Inle Lake a nominal fee to use the toilet.
see Nyaungshwe Note that the plumbing in flush, sit-
Kalaw %081 down toilets is generally not equipped
Kyaukse %066 to flush paper. Usually theres a small
Lashio %082 waste basket nearby to deposit used toilet
Loikaw %083 paper.
Magwe %063 Its perfectly acceptable for men (less so
Mandalay %02 for women) to go behind a tree or bush (or
Mawlamyine %057 at the roadside) when nature calls.
Meiktila %064
Minbu %065 TOURIST INFORMATION
Monywa %071 Government-operated Myanmar Travels &
Myeik %059 Tours (MTT; www.myanmars.net/mtt) is part of
Myingyan %066 the Ministry of Hotels & Tourism and the
Myitkyina %074 main tourist information service in the
Ngapali Beach %043 country. Those who want to avoid using
Nyaungshwe (Yaunghwe) %081 government services should avoid the
Pakokku %062 tours and services offered here, including
Pathein %042 buying train or plane tickets. MTT offices
Pyay %053 are located in Yangon (p89), Mandalay
Pyin U Lwin %085 (p229), New Bagan (p275), and Inle Lake
Pyinmana %067 (p183). Other than at Yangon, these offices
Sagaing %072 are pretty quiet. The staff is friendly and
Sittwe %043 speaks English, however, so you could eas-
Taunggyi %081 ily drop by for free information though
Taungoo %054 details of open/restricted areas arent al-
Thanlyin (Syriam) %065 ways reliable.
Yangon %01 There are no MTT offices abroad. Try
www.myanmar.com for (often useful) travel
information provided by the government.
TIME Much of the tourist industry in Myanmar
The local Myanmar Standard Time (MST) is now privatised. Travellers who want to
is 6 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time arrange a driver, or have hotel reservations
(GMT/UTC). When coming in from Thai- awaiting them, would do well to arrange a
land, turn your watch back half an hour; trip with the help of private travel agents in
coming from India, put your watch forward Yangon (p89). Many travel agents outside
an hour. The 24-hour clock is often used for Yangon only sell air tickets.
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DIREC TORY
LIVING ON MYANMAR TIME
That bus may roll in late, but much of Myanmar actually does work on a different time system.
Most Myanmar Buddhists use an eight-day week in which Thursday to Tuesday conform to the
Western calendar but Wednesday is divided into two 12-hour days. Midnight to noon is Bohdahu
(the day Buddha was born), while noon to midnight is Yahu (Rahu, a Hindu god/planet). Its rare
that the weeks unique structure causes any communication problems, however.
The traditional Myanmar calendar features 12 28-day lunar months that run out of sync with
the months of the solar Gregorian calendar. To stay in sync with the solar year, Myanmar inserts
a second Waso lunar month every few years somewhat like the leap-year day added to the
Gregorian February. The lunar months of Myanmar:
Tagu March/April Thadingyut September/October
Kason April/May Tazaungmon October/November
Nayon May/June Nadaw November/December
Waso June/July Pyatho December/January
Wagaung July/August Tabodwe January/February
Tawthalin August/September Tabaung February/March
Most traditional festivals take place according to the lunar calendar, making it difficult to calculate
festival dates using the fixed-date Gregorian calendar. Ask most Buddhist villagers when a pwe
is scheduled and you may hear something like, Its on Pyatho, 8th day of the waning moon.
OK, see you there!
Traditionally, Burmese kings subscribed to various year counts. The main one in current use,
the thekkayit, begins in April and is 638 years behind the Christian year count. Therefore, the
Christian year of 2005 is equivalent to the thekkayit of 1367. If an ancient temple you see sounds
way too old, it may because locals are using the thekkayit.
Another calendar in use follows the Buddhist era (BE), as used in Thailand, which counts from
543 BC, the date that Buddha achieved nibbana. Hence AD 2005 is 2548 BE.
VISAS you must first get a visa directly through a

Passport holders from Asean countries, Myanmar consular service.
China, Bangladesh and Russia do not need At research time, Bangkok travel agents,
to apply for visas to visit Myanmar. All particularly on Khao San Rd, specialised
other nationalities do. A tourist visas val- in getting quick tourist visas for Myan-
idity expires 90 days after issue and only mar. Rates depended on turnaround times,
allows a 28-day, single-entry visit. It costs which arent always met: a visa in one day
US$20. Youll need three passport-sized costs B1800, in two days B1600 and in three
photos for the process. days B1100. The process at the Myanmar
There are also 28-day business visas embassy in Bangkok (see p339) takes at
(US$30) and 28-day special visas (US$30) least a day. Show up early.
for former Myanmar citizens (these visas See p357 for more information on enter-
can be extended for three to six months ing Myanmar overland from Thailand or
once in Yangon, for US$36). A multiple- China, which includes details of short-term
entry business visa is US$150. There is also a visas (with very limited access to Myanmar)
meditation visa (US$30), which requires an available at the borders.
invitation from a monastery; those seeking
to enter Myanmar on this type of visa must Applications
do an autobiographical sketch as part of Myanmars embassies and consulates
the process. abroad are scrupulous in checking out the
It may be possible to apply for an e-visa backgrounds of anyone applying for a tour-
online at www.visa.gov.mm, though the site ist visa. In particular, writers and journal-
was suspended at the time of research. E- ists may have a difficult time obtaining
visas previously cost US$30. If youre plan- visas. Therefore, its probably not a good
ning to enter the country overland, however, idea to list your occupation as any of the
DIREC TORY 352 D I R E C T O R Y V o l u n t e e r i n g www.lonelyplanet.com
following: journalist, photographer, edi- VOLUNTEERING

tor, publisher, motion-picture director or Some foreigners have been able to volun-
producer, cameraperson, videographer, or teer as English teachers at monasteries. In
writer. Of course, plenty of journalists and November 2004, seven foreigners doing so
photographers do get into the country by at Mandalays Phaungdaw Kyaung were de-
declaring a different profession on the visa ported, though this is likely to have been a
application. repercussion of the monasterys connection
Myanmar foreign missions may also be with ousted prime minister Khin Nyunt.
suspicious of anyone whose passport shows
two or more previous visits to Myanmar in WOMEN TRAVELLERS
a five-year period. Obviously the govern- In Myanmar no Myanmar woman would
ment cant believe anyone would want to even consider travelling without at least
visit Myanmar more than once or twice! one female companion, so women travel-
In cases such as these youll need more of a ling alone are regarded as slightly peculiar
reason than simply tourism for receiving by the locals. Women travelling alone and
another visa. Be creative. being seen off on boats and trains by local
friends may find the latter trying to find a
Extensions suitably responsible older woman to keep
At research time, it was possible to extend a them company on the trip.
tourist visa by an additional 14 days beyond As in most Buddhist countries, foreign
its original 28-day validity in Yangon only. women travelling in Myanmar are rarely
The extension costs US$36 and usually takes hassled on the road as they might be in,
about three days to issue. A travel agent can for example, India, Malaysia or Indonesia.
help sort through the bureaucracy, or you However, we have received a few reports of
can drop by the MTT office, which charges foreign women being harassed while travel-
an extra US$2 for the service. Youll need ling in Myanmar. Dressing modestly should
two copies of your passport details and visa, help to reduce the risk of sexual harassment.
two passport-sized photographs, and a let- Wear a local longyi instead of a skirt above
ter of recommendation from your hotel. the knee, and any old T-shirt instead of a
The process cannot be started in advance spaghetti-strap top.
or from elsewhere in Myanmar apart from If you didnt bring tampons, theyre
Yangon. available at Yangons City Mart Supermar-
ket (p88).
Overstaying Your Visa Women travelling in Myanmar during
Another option, if you want just a couple the April Water Festival (Thingyan) should
more days, is overstaying your visa. Many take extra precautions. As in neighbouring
travellers have overstayed up to seven days Thailand, drunkenness and an anything
without incident. Check with a Yangon goes atmosphere, combined with Western
travel agent before your visas up, but at women in tight, wet T-shirts, is apparently
research time there was generally little has- too much for some Myanmar men to bear
sle if you overstayed if you were leaving weve heard of women being groped dur-
from the Yangon or Mandalay airports. Be ing the festival. Again, dressing modestly
prepared to spend at least 20 minutes doing should help to prevent such incidents.
some paperwork, and pay US$3 per day, Ladies (per the posted signs in certain
plus a US$3 registration fee. Have correct areas) cannot go up some altars or onto decks
change, as immigration will likely not be around stupas, including the one affording a
able to change your US$100 bill. close-up look at the famous Golden Rock at
If youre leaving overland to Thailand Kyaiktiyo (p149). Most locals tend to visit
on an expired visa, its best to enlist help teashops, restaurants or shops with members
from a travel agency before popping up at of the same sex.
the border. In one case an extra US$35 fee Asian women, even from other coun-
was slung onto the US$3-per-day penalty tries, travelling with a Western man may
to cross to Ranong, Thailand. Its likely not encounter rude comments. In one case a
an official fee, but it seems to be regularly local explained to the heckler that they were
applied. not a couple, and the comments ceased.
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DIREC TORY
In some cases it can be considered an in- youre handing something to a monk (and
sult for a woman to be on the roof of a small youre a woman), place the object within
vehicle or boat when male passengers are reach of him, not directly into his hands.
below; ask first. Also, monks are not sup- See p61 for background on the role of
posed to touch or be touched by women. If local women in society.
354
Transport
to Kawthoung (see p357 for more details
on these). There is no way that foreigners
CONTENTS can reach Myanmar by land or sea from
Bangladesh, India or Laos. At the time of
Getting There & Away 354 research, a road link between Bangladesh
Entering the Country 354 and Myanmar strategically linking My-
Air 354 anmar with India was under construc-
Land 357 tion, though it is unlikely that this route
TRANSPORT
River & Sea 358 will be made open for foreigners to use.
Tours 358 There is no requirement for you to show
Getting Around 358 an onward ticket out of the country to enter
Air 358 Myanmar.
Bicycle 360
Boat 361 Passport
Bus 363 You will need to have a passport that has at
Car & Motorcycle 364 least six months of validity from the time
Hitching 365 of entry.
Local Transport 365
Pick-up Trucks 366 AIR
Tours 366 Airports & Airlines
Train 366 All international flights arrive at Yangon
(Rangoon) airport (RGN), except flights
originating from Chiang Mai (Thailand)
GETTING THERE & that go directly to Mandalay airport (MDL).
Both airports can land DC10s, but only
AWAY Mandalays airport (far more modern and
impressive than Yangons) can land Boe-
ENTERING THE COUNTRY ing 747s.
If youre arriving by air, and have your The most common route to Yangon is
visa ready (see p351) and your valid pass- via Bangkok, though flights also connect
port in hand (see following), you should Yangon with Calcutta and Delhi (in India),
have no trouble entering Myanmar. Arriv- Dhaka (Bangladesh), Hong Kong, Kuala
ing so by land is less predictable. Presently Lumpur (Malaysia), Kunming (China) and
you can cross at three places from Ruili Singapore.
(China) to Mu-se; from Mae Sai (Thailand) Airlines with offices in Yangon and regu-
to Tachileik; and from Ranong (Thailand) lar international links with Myanmar:
WARNING THINGS CHANGE

The information in this chapter is particularly vulnerable to change: prices for international travel
are volatile, routes are introduced and cancelled, schedules change, special deals come and
go, and rules and visa requirements are amended. Airlines and governments seem to take a
perverse pleasure in making price structures and regulations as complicated as possible. You
should check directly with the airline or a travel agent to make sure you understand how a fare
(and ticket you may buy) works. In addition, the travel industry is highly competitive, and there
are many lurks and perks.
The upshot of this is that you should get opinions, quotes and advice from as many airlines
and travel agents as possible before you part with your hard-earned cash. The details given in
this chapter should be regarded as pointers and are not a substitute for your own careful, up-
to-date research.
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r 355
Air China (%01-505 024; www.airchina.com; airline picking up a one-way ticket to Yangon for
code CA; B13/23 Narnattaw Rd, Kamayut Township) Flies US$90 or US$100 from there. If youre get-
to/from Kunming. ting quoted obscene fares to Yangon say
Air Mandalay (Map p90; %01-525 488; www.air US$2500 or the equivalent from London
mandalay.com; airline code 6T; 146 Dhamma Zedi Rd) or Los Angeles look into getting tickets
Connects Mandalay with Chiang Mai. to Bangkok.
Biman Bangladesh Airlines (%01-275 882, 01-240 Once in Myanmar you can only buy
922; www.bimanair.com; airline code BG; 106-108 international tickets from travel agents or
Pansodan St) Flies to/from Bangkok and Dhaka. airline offices in Yangon.
Indian Airlines Limited (Map p102; %01-253 598;
http://indian-airlines.nic.in; airline code IC; 127 Sule Paya AIR PASSES
Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok and Calcutta. If youre coming from the USA, Malaysia
TRANSPORT
Malaysia Airlines (Map p102; %01-241 007; www Airlines Access Asia Pass allows flights
.malaysianair.com; airline code MH; 335 Bogyoke Aung San around 25 cities (including Yangon) over a
Rd) Flies to/from Kuala Lumpur. 21-day period within Southeast Asia (cov-
Myanmar Airways International (MAI; Map p102; ering all countries except Laos), and also
%01-255 260; www.maiair.com; airline code 8M; 123 Pakistan, Bangladesh, Hong Kong, Taiwan
Sule Paya Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok, Delhi, Hong Kong, and gulp Sweden.
Kuala Lumpur and Singapore.
Silk Air (Map p102; %01-255 287; www.silkair.com; INTERCONTINENTAL (RTW) TICKETS
airline code MI; 339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Flies to/from The following online ticket agencies ar-
Singapore. range RTW tickets (which will get you to
Thai Airways International (Thai; Map p102; Bangkok):
%01-255 499; www.thaiair.com; airline code TG; 1st fl, www.airbrokers.com
339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Flies to/from Bangkok and www.airstop.com
Chiang Mai. www.airtreks.com
www.aroundtheworlds.com
The following are airlines with representa-
tives in Yangon, despite not offering direct Reconfirming Tickets
services to Myanmar: Its important to reconfirm your outgoing
Air France (Map p102; %01-255 430; www.airfrance.fr, tickets from Myanmar a few days in ad-
in French; airline code AF; 339 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) vance for all airlines other than Thai Air-
All Nippon Airways (ANA; Map p102; %01-248 901, ways and Silk Air. If youve forgotten what
01-255 412; www.ana.co.jp/eng; airline code NH; 339 time your flight is, the inside back page of
Bogyoke Aung San Rd, Sakura Tower) the Myanmar Times lists the weeks inter-
China Airlines (%01-245 484; www.china-airlines national flight schedule.
.com; airline code CI; 353 Bo Aung Gyaw St)
EVA Air (%01-298 001; www.evaair.com; airline code Asia
BR; 94 Bogalay Zay St) STA Travel (www.statravel.com) often has good
Japan Airlines (JAL; Map p102; %01-240 400; www.jal deals. It has branches in China, Hong Kong,
.co.jp; airline code JL; FMI Bldg, 380 Bogyoke Aung San Rd) Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, the Philippines,
KLM-Royal Dutch Airlines (Map p102; %01-274 466; Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand. Some
www.klm.com; airline code KL; c/o Myanma Airways, 104 other locally based agents that can help with
Strand Rd) tickets:
Korean Air (%01-661 524; www.koreanair.com; airline China China International Travel Service/FIT Office (in
code KE; 2nd fl, 112 Pyay Rd, 8 Mile Junction) Kunming %0871 313 8888; King World Hotel) One-way
fares from Kunming to Mandalay or Yangon are about Y1500.
See p358 for a list of domestic carriers.
Tickets DEPARTURE TAX

Because most flights to Myanmar will in- The international departure tax of US$10
volve changes of planes, possibly to a dif- is not included with your air ticket. Have
ferent airline, in Bangkok, its occasionally the US dollars in hand when leaving the
possible to save money (up to US$1000!) by country. Kyat is not accepted.
taking a cheapie flight to Bangkok and then
356 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY A i r www.lonelyplanet.com
Hong Kong Hong Kong Student Travel (%2730 2800; for flights between Paris and Yangon could
www.hkst.com.hk, in Cantonese only) be bought for 860. Recommended travel
India STIC Travels (in Delhi %011-2335 7468; www agencies:
.stictravel.com) Dozens of branches. It offers a Anyway (%08 92 89 38 92; www.anyway.fr, in French)
R7700/13,500 one-way/return fare from Calcutta; return Nouvelles Frontires (%08 25 00 07 47; www.nouvelles
from Delhi is about R11,500 on Myanma Airways. -frontieres.fr, in French)
Japan No 1 Travel (in Tokyo %03-3205 6073; www OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr, in French) Student oriented.
.no1-travel.com) No direct flights, but you can change in Voyageurs du Monde (%01 40 15 11 15; www.vdm.com)
Bangkok.
Thailand Pilot Purely Tour Ltd (in Bangkok %02- GERMANY
281-8565; [email protected]; 139 Khao San Rd, Find fares at these online agencies:
Banglampu) Long-time resident company on Khao San Rd; Expedia (www.expedia.de, in German)
TRANSPORT
sells one-way/return tickets to Yangon for B4400/7200. Just Travel (%089 747 3330; www.justtravel.de)
Last Minute (%01805 284 366; www.lastminute.de)
You can often get pan-Asian fares cheaper STA Travel (%01805 456 422; www.statravel.de)
in Asia than from elsewhere. However, here
are some sample one-way fares for online OTHER COUNTRIES
tickets purchased outside Asia: from Bang- Airfair (%020-620 5121; www.airfair.nl, in Dutch) A
kok (US$165), Chiang Mai (US$165), Delhi recommended agency in the Netherlands.
(US$470), Hong Kong (US$470), Kuala CTS Viaggi (%06-462 0431; www.cts.it, in Italian) A
Lumpur (US$460) and Singapore (US$560). student-oriented agent in Italy.
Flights from Chaing Mai to Mandalay
on Air Mandalay cost about B5000 (about UK & Ireland
US$130) one way. Look for advertisements in Time Out, the
Evening Standard and the the Web-based TNT
Australia & New Zealand Magazine Online (www.tntmagazine.com). Geared
In Australia, STA Travel (%1300 733 035; www.sta towards students or travellers under 26 (but
travel.com.au) and Flight Centre (%133 133; www helpful to all), popular STA Travel (%0870
.flightcentre.com.au) have offices throughout Aus- 160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) has many branches
tralia. An online booking agent is www.travel around the UK.
.com.au. Sample return fares from Sydney to Recommended travel agencies:
Yangon range from about A$1000 to A$1300, Bridge the World (%0870 444 7474; www.b-t-w.co.uk)
including tax. Flight Centre (%0870 890 8099; www.flightcentre
In New Zealand, Flight Centre (%0800 243 .co.uk)
544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel (%0508 Flightbookers (%0870 010 7000; www.ebookers.com)
782 872; www.statravel.co.nz) have many branches. North-South Travel (%01245-608 291; www.north
The site www.travel.co.nz is good for online southtravel.co.uk) Part of the companys profits goes to
bookings. projects in the developing world.
Quest Travel (%0870 442 3542; www.questtravel.com)
Canada Trailfinders (www.trailfinders.co.uk)
Travel Cuts (%800 667-2887; www.travelcuts.com) is Travel Bag (%0870 890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk)
Canadas national student-travel agency.
For online bookings, try www.expedia.ca We found sample return fares from London
and www.travelocity.ca. It may be cheaper to Yangon from 650 to 1000 often 500
to buy separate tickets to Bangkok, then more if starting from Belfast, so consider
to Yangon. There are far cheaper fares from getting a cheap fare to London and leaving
New York than from Toronto or Montreal; from there. A one-way ticket is usually only
one sample fare from Toronto to Yangon was slightly cheaper than a return ticket.
C$3200, while from New York the cost was
US$1250. USA
Discount travel agents in the USA are known
Continental Europe as consolidators (although you wont see a
FRANCE sign on the door saying Consolidator). San
Gulf Air and Emirates Air often have bar- Francisco is the ticket consolidator capital of
gain flights from Paris to Bangkok. Tickets America, although some good deals can be
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY L a n d 357
found in Los Angeles, New York and other possessing a 28-day visa (obtained from
big cities. Bangkok or elsewhere) are permitted to
One of the most reliable discounters is enter Myanmar here and travel to the rest of
Avia Travel (%800 950-2842, 510-558-2150; www the country. If you dont have a visa, a US$5
.aviatravel.com), which specialises in custom- day pass (paid to Myanmar immigration on
designed round-the-world fares. Travellers the spot) allows travel only within 5km of
aged under 26, including students, should town; a US$10 14-day pass, also obtainable
check with STA Travel (%800 781-4040; www.sta at the border, allows travel to Kengtung and
travel.com) for discount fares. Mong La.
Agencies recommended for making on- Its not a problem to leave Myanmar here,
line bookings: as long as your visa hasnt expired. See p352
www.cheaptickets.com for more on this.
TRANSPORT
www.expedia.com
www.itn.net TO/FROM RANONG, THAILAND
www.lowestfare.com Travel agents in Ranong help arrange 28-
www.orbitz.com day visas allowing you to cross into Kaw-
www.travelocity.com thoung (p169) and travel to the rest of
Myanmar. You can also enter the country
If the fares quoted to you are high, consider- for two days by purchasing a US$5 day
ing buying two individual tickets one to pass, which doesnt subject you to the same
Bangkok, then another to Yangon. Gener- 5km restriction.
ally, flights to Bangkok are about US$200 Travellers can exit Myanmar here too.
cheaper from the west coast than from the Presently immigration charges US$25 for
east coast (its about US$750 from Los Ange- you to do so; this is likely not an official fee
les in the high season, not including Christ- but seems to be pretty standard.
mas). Its possible to book a return Bangkok
to Yangon flight online for about US$300, TO/FROM RUILI, CHINA
which is about US$100 more than the cost At the time of research, you could come
of the day-in-advance return tickets easily into Myanmar from China, but not enter
bought in Bangkok. An early high-season China, at this border. You can arrange a
sample fare for a return trip to Yangon was regular 28-day tourist visa in a day or two in
US$1250 from New York; curiously, it was Kunming at the Myanmar Consulate (%0871-
much more from LA (about US$2000). 371 6609; fax 0871-317 6309; Camellia Hotel, Bldg No 3;
h8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri), in Yunnan
LAND Province. The cost is Y185 to Y285, de-
Border Crossings pending on how quickly you need it.
There are presently only three places to To cross overland at Ruili its necessary
cross into Myanmar overland. No bus or to book a multiday visa-and-package trip
train service connects Myanmar with an- you cant go on your own to go across
other country, nor can you travel by car or the border at Mu-Se and on to Lashio. This
motorcycle across the border you must package costs about Y1400, generally about
walk across. Have your visa before you get the same as a one-way flight to Mandalay
to the border (see p351). from Kunming. Weve heard it can take
Note that both border crossings with more than a week to arrange, or as little
Thailand involve reaching closed-off areas as two days. The package, which includes
of Myanmar, from where you will have to basic transport and a guide to ensure all
fly to reach the other parts of the country goes OK, doesnt include food or accom-
(including Yangon or Mandalay). The ma- modation. The border, at Ruili, is 20 hours
jority of travellers crossing the border at by road from Kunming. The drive from
these places are making day trips or are Mu-Se (just across the border) to Lashio is
seeking to renew a Thai visa. on a good portion of the old Burma Rd and
takes about five hours.
TO/FROM MAE SAI, THAILAND The China International Travel Service in
North of Chiang Rai its possible to cross to Kunming (see p355 for details) can arrange
dreary Tachileik (p202). Travellers already this package.
358 G E T T I N G A R O U N D A i r www.lonelyplanet.com
RIVER & SEA In the wake of Visit Myanmar Year in

It is not possible for foreigners to go to/ 1996, forced labour was reportedly used to
from Myanmar by sea or river. ready new airstrips. Many travellers avoid
air travel, as taking a flight means that more
TOURS money goes to the government.
Many foreign-run companies book package
tours to Myanmar. Were not recommend- Airlines in Myanmar
ing them as, in most instances, more money Four airlines three private ones and the
will reach the local people if you travel on government-run Myanma Airways (MA)
your own or arrange a driver and guide serve Myanmars domestic skyways. Most
from a locally based agent. See p26 for tips routes connect the big four: Yangon, Bagan
on arranging your own tour in Yangon. (Nyaung U), Mandalay and Heho (Inle
TRANSPORT
Travel agents along Bangkoks Khao San Lake). Daily flights also connect Yangon
Rd offer a host of short-term package trips with Ngapali Beach (Thandwe). Even more
to Myanmar, some of which are geared more far-flung airports, such as the ones at My-
to midrange locally run hotels than top- itkyina, Kengtung and Sittwe, see regular
end joint-venture hotels. Four-night trips flights during the week. Following is the
to Yangon, Mandalay and Bagan (Pagan) contact information for the offices in Yan-
start at US$329 to US$399, including hotels gon for the four airlines; the regional offices
and flight. are listed in the respective chapters.
Air Bagan (%01-514 741, 01-513 322; www.airbagan
.com; airline code AB; 56 Shwe Taung Gyar St, Bahan) New
GETTING AROUND privately run carrier that started up in 2004.
Air Mandalay (Map p90; %01-525 488; www.air
Much of Myanmar is off limits to foreign- mandalay.com; airline code 6T; 146 Dhamma Zedi Rd)
ers or can only be accessed after getting Running since 1994, this is a Singapore/Malaysia joint
permission or by taking an expensive tour venture.
organised by the governments Myanmar Myanma Airways (MA; Map p102; %01-374 874, 01-
Travels & Tours (MTT). But in the places 277 013; fax 01-373 828; 104 Strand Rd) Government airline.
where you are able to go theres surprising Yangon Airways (Map p102; %01-383 106; www.yan
freedom to stop and roam where you want. gonair.com; airline code HK; MMB Tower, Level 5, 166 Upper
See the map on p359 for transport routes Pansodan Rd) Thai joint venture operating since 1996, with
that were open at research time. Some iso- a cute flying-elephant logo; their slogan youre safe with
lated towns such as Kengtung, Sittwe and us is a poke at government-run Myanma Airways safety
Kawthoung require jumps by air or bus to record.
reach.
Its worth adding that the government is Schedules
very happy about their (literal, not political)
bridge building, capped by the countrys larg- Air routes change in the air; thats how
est in Mawlamyine (Moulmein); this 3km domestic we are.
bridge over the Thanlwin (Salween) River Yangon travel agent
was completed in 2004. See the list of bridges
at www.myanmar.com/build/bridge. The agent is not joking. These comments are
particularly true of MA flights, where dates
AIR and departure times are often not written
Myanmar has 66 (and counting) airstrips on your ticket, so the airline doesnt have
around the country, of which 20 are served to honour the days and hours for which
by regular flights. Many are located 20 or reservations were originally made. (In some
30 minutes by car outside town. In many cases, if officials are flying somewhere say
towns youll note new, spotless, largely to Lashio seats may open to the public.)
empty airports serving, well, no flights. One Schedules are more reliable on the other
Magwe resident said: Our airport? Its for three airlines, and between main destina-
show. We dont get flights here. As with in- tions during the high season. Sometimes
ternational flights, domestic flights involve direct flights from, say, Bagan to Thandwe
immigration and customs checks. (Sandoway) stop in Yangon.
www.lonelyplanet.com M a j o r Pu b l i c T r a n s p o r t R o u t e s 359
CHINA
(TIBET)
MAJOR PUBLIC TRANSPORT ROUTES
Pangsaw Putao
BHUTAN Pass
Khamti
INDIA
Myitkyina
BANGLADESH
CHINA
TRANSPORT
Tamu Bhamo
Katha Ruili
Kawlinn
er
Namkham Mu-se
Mawlaik
Tiddim Riv
Ayeyarwady
Kalaymyo
Mogok
Nanhsan Lashio
Hakha
Shwebo
Hsipaw
Monywa Mingun Kyaukme
Pyin U Lwin
Sagaing Mong La
Mandalay
Pakokku Myingyan
Mt Victoria Nyaung U Pindaya Kengtung
(3053m) Bagan Mt Popa Meiktila Taunggyi
Heho
Mrauk U Kyaukpadaung Thazi Nyaungshwe
Minbya Kalaw Tachilek
Minbu
Inle Kakku LAOS
Sittwe Magwe Lake Mae Sai
Pyinmana
Ayeyarwady
Taungoo
Taunggok Pyay
Bay of Shwedaung
Bengal
Thandwe Ngapali
Riv
er
Kyaiktiyo
Bago
Chaungtha Hpa-an
Ngwe Saung Thaton
Pathein Myawadi
YANGON
Letkhokkon Mawlamyaine
Beach
Kyaikkami Thanbyuzayat
Gulf
Mouths of the
Ayeyarwady
of
Mottama Payathonzu THAILAND
Dawei
Border Crossing
Rail Route
Air Route
ANDAMAN
Boat Route
SEA
Government Permission Routes
Myeik
Closed Roads
This map outlines major open public
transport and restricted routes for foreigners.
These routes may change without notice.
Gulf
of
Thailand
Kawthoung
Ranong
360 G E T T I N G A R O U N D B i c y c l e www.lonelyplanet.com
Bikes can easily be hired around the country,

AIRPORT CODES but theyre best for getting around a town
Many posted flight schedules around the rather than for use on long-haul trips.
country only use domestic airport codes.
Bhamo BMO Around Town
Dawei (Tavoy) TVY In places such as Mandalay, Bagan and Inle
Heho (Inle Lake) HEH Lake youll see bike rental signs; rates start
Kawthoung KAW at K500 to K1000 per day. Most guesthouses
Kengtung KET in such places keep a few bikes on hand; if
Mandalay MDL not, staff can usually track one down. More
Myeik MGZ expensive hotels and secondary towns such
Myitkyina MYT as Sittwe tend to charge K1000 or K2000
TRANSPORT
Nyaung U (Bagan) NYU more. Note the condition of the bike be-
Sittwe AKY fore hiring; check the brakes and pedals in
Tachileik THL particular. Many rental bikes have baskets
Thandwe (Ngapali Beach) SNY or bells.
Yangon RGN If renting doesnt appeal and you plan to
ride a fair bit, you can buy sturdy utilitar-
ian bikes made in India, China or Thailand
You can find some schedule information from about US$75. Someone may be able
on the airline websites and at www.myan to help you track down a second-hand bike
mar.com/information/flight.htm. for less.
Apart from in Yangon and Mandalay,
Tickets vehicular traffic is quite light.
One-way fares are half a return fare, and can
usually be bought a day in advance. To buy a Long-Distance
ticket, youll need to pay with US dollars or A few visitors bring their own touring bikes
FEC (see p345), and bring your passport to into Myanmar; there doesnt seem to be any
the travel agent or airline office. Its some- problem with customs as long as you make
times difficult to buy a ticket that departs the proper declarations upon entering the
from a town other than the one you are in. country. Gradients in most parts of Myan-
You can usually get discounts (maybe mar open to tourism are moderate. Frontier
US$10 per ticket) by buying from an inde- regions, on the other hand particularly
pendent travel agent. Shan, Kayin, Kayah and Chin States tend
MA tickets are generally a bit cheaper to be mountainous. Youll find plenty of
than the other airlines. But that discount opportunity everywhere for dirt-road and
comes with a ride on the governments off-road pedalling. Especially in the north,
dated fleet of Fokker F-28 jets and F-27 where main roads can resemble secondary
turboprops, and their iffy safety record roads elsewhere, a sturdy mountain bike
(see p336 for details). Rumours persist that would make a good alternative to a tour-
safety procedures havent been updated ing rig.
since the 1950s. Its also worth noting that Some routes are listed below. More detail
some intelligence officials, arrested in Oc- about these routes is provided on p332.
tober 2004 (when prime minister Khin Nyit Thazi to Inle Lake via Kalaw
was ousted), flew MA to their new homes in Pyin U Lwin (Maymyo) to Lashio via
up-country prisons. You have to go to MA Hsipaw
or the governments MTT office to pur- Mandalay to Bagan via Myingyan
chase tickets on that airline. Mandalay to either Monywa, Pyin U
All prices for airline tickets should in- Lwin, Sagaing, Inwa (Ava) or Amarapura
clude US$3 for insurance. There is no do-
mestic departure tax. November to February is the best time to
cycle in terms of the weather.
BICYCLE If youre bringing your bike, bring the
Youll sure see a lot: bicycles are clearly the spare parts you need. There are (at least)
number one means for locals to get around. basic bicycle shops in most towns, but they
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D B o a t 361
usually have only locally or Chinese-made can reach Myitkyina. Other important riv-
parts to equip single-speed bikes. You can ers include the Twante Chaung (Twante
also buy lower-quality motorcycle helmets Chanel), which links the Ayeyarwady to
here; many are disturbingly adorned with Yangon, and the Chindwin River, which
swastikas a fad, not a political alliance. joins the Ayeyarwady a little above Bagan.
Bring reflective clothing and plenty of in- The Thanlwin River in the east is only navi-
surance. Dont ride at night. gable for about 200km from its mouth at
Travellers on a bike will need to sleep in Mawlamyine, though the five-hour trip to
towns few travellers make it to, and a lack of Hpa-an is one of the countrys most scenic
licensed accommodation may be an issue. waterway journeys (see p157).
Technically, you will need permission from It takes great expertise to navigate My-
local immigration to stay at such places. Be anmars waterways. Rapidly changing sand-
TRANSPORT
patient. Most cyclists get permission from banks and shallow water during the dry
local authorities to stay one night, but the season mean the captains and pilots have
paperwork (coming with some frowns) to keep in constant touch with the chang-
may take an hour to arrange. ing pattern of the river flows. For example,
Its possible to store your bicycle in seven pilots are used on the stretch from
the undercarriage storage on buses. You Mandalay to Pyay (Prome). Each is an ex-
may have to pay a little extra, though. On pert on his own particular segment of the
smaller buses you may need to buy a seat river.
for your bike. In addition to the rivers, its possible
Check the Myanmar webpage on www to travel along the Bay of Bengal between
.cyclingaroundtheworld.com to read a de- Sittwe and Taunggok (north of Ngapali
tailed route, with tips, from a 1998 trip Beach); see p318.
around Bagan and central Myanmar. A Note that higher-priced cruises are either
few cycling groups (eg www.spiceroads privately run boats on lease from the gov-
.com/burma) offer guided tours; most are ernment or a joint-venture operation.
for about two weeks and take in much of
the same ground covered in the 1998 trip. Cargo Ships
Prices for tours run at about US$1750, and Although the obstacles standing in your way
include bike and accommodation but not are daunting, it may be possible to travel
airfare. along Myanmars coastline via Myanma Five
Star Line (MFSL; in Yangon %01-295 279; fax 01-295 174;
BOAT 132/136 Theinbyu St), the countrys government-
A huge fleet of riverboats, remnants of the owned ocean transport enterprise. MFSL
old Irrawaddy Flotilla Company (IFC), still maintains just 21 craft, which sail north and
ply Myanmars major rivers, where the bulk south from Yangon about twice a month.
of traveller-oriented boat travel gets done. Only eight vessels sometimes offer passen-
Some boats are ramshackle (but certainly ger service: MV Taunggyi, MV Hakha, MV
lively) government ferries, some date from Myitkyina, MV Loikaw, MV Lashio, MV
the British era and others are old-style IFC Bagan, MV Hpa-an and MV Htonywa.
liners that run luxury cruises. River ferry is, Southbound MFSL ships from Yangon
without doubt, one of the most enjoyable sail regularly to Kawthoung, a two-day
ways to cover long distances in Myanmar. and two-night voyage (at least), to pick up
See p32 for an itinerary suggestion that goes goods shipped through Thailands Ranong
down the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. Province, with stops at Dawei and Myeik
The main drawback is speed; a boat typically (Mergui).
takes three to four times as long as road Northbound ships call at Thandwe (a full
travel along the same route. day from Yangon), Taunggok and Kyaukpyu
There are 8000km of navigable river in (one night ashore) before docking in Sittwe
Myanmar, with the most important river (five hours later) for cargo from India and
being the Ayeyarwady. Even in the dry Bangladesh.
season, boats can travel from the delta re- Schedules can be irregular. If youre bent
gion (dodging exposed sandbars) all the on trying for a ticket, it would be best to
way north to Bhamo, and in the wet they have a local make inquiries on your behalf.
362 G E T T I N G A R O U N D B o a t www.lonelyplanet.com
Private Ferries (www.orient-expresstrains.com/tplanner/rtm/index.html)

A thousand or so private cargo and passen- offers three-, four-, seven-, nine- and 11-day
ger boats travel the waterways of Myanmar. trips (ranging from US$1950 to US$4200
That is just a pale shadow of the former per person) that centre on Mandalay. The
glory of the original Glasgow-owned IFC, most popular connect Mandalay with Ba-
which ceased operations in 1948. We have gan. The three-day trip downriver from
tried to give preference to private ferries Mandalay leaves on Wednesday (weekly
throughout this book. from October to April, monthly July to
September), and the four-day return trip
Government Ferries from Bagan goes on Saturday (weekly from
Inland Water Transport (IWT; Map p98; in Yangon October to April, monthly July to Septem-
%01-284 055; Strand St) is the government- ber). Longer trips venture further north,
TRANSPORT
owned water-transport corporation. It has up the Ayeyarwady to Bhamo, or up the

over 500 boats totalling nearly 1.5 million Chindwin past Kalaymyo. Yangon travel
tonnes and carrying at least 14 million pas- agents can help arrange this, but ships are
sengers annually. often booked in advance.
Today most of the IWT boats are rather A locally run operation is Pandaw Cruises
run down and ramshackle. Many of the (%02-44256; www.pandaw.com; 13/14 Strand Rd, btwn
passengers on the long-distance ferries are 35th & 37th Sts, Mandalay), which offers three 12-
traders who make stops along the way to day trips in ships done up like the original
pick up or deliver goods. Along the heav- teak-and-brass IFC fleet. The Golden Land
ily travelled 423km-long YangonPyay trip goes from Pyay to Mandalay via Bagan;
Mandalay route, there are 28 ferry landings, prices run from US$3150 to US$3450, and
where merchants can ply their trade. ships depart weekly from early November
Only a few riverboat routes are regularly to March. The Upper Ayeyarwady trip,
used by visitors. New tourist boats carry heading north of Mandalay to Bhamo, is
foreigners on the upper deck and locals on US$3450 to US$3950; ships depart weekly
the lower. Key routes: from mid-September to early November. A
Mandalay to Bagan (see p243) lone September trip up the Chindwin River
Mandalay to Myitkyina via Katha and for 12 days is cheap, at US$1950. At the
Bhamo (see p219 and p221) time of research, Pandaw Cruises permit
Mawlamyine to Hpa-an (see p157) to operate was up in the air, but apparently
Sittwe to Mrauk U (Myohaung; see p322) things are being worked out.
Yangon to Pathein (Bassein; see p122)
There is no direct service between Yangon HELP WITH TRANSPORT

and Mandalay to do the trip, youll need to Your guesthouse or hotel can help you
change boats in Pyay, a two-day trip south considerably by getting whatever tickets
of Bagan and two days north of Yangon. you need (air, bus, boat, train) or by find-
IWT offices are usually near the jetty. ing a long-distance taxi or even by find-
They can offer information, schedules and ing shifting bus stations! Sometimes the
fare details, and usually tickets. IWT offices, price quoted by the guesthouse owner,
officially, accept US dollars and FEC only. particularly for taxis, will fluctuate depend-
ing on how much your bed costs. Often,
Luxury Boats though, youll only pay what youd pay if
Be aware that the higher-priced cruises are you traipsed across town to do it yourself.
either privately run boats on lease from the Some may charge extra for a commission;
government or a joint-venture operation. its not a bad idea to ask around the street
You can book services with travel agents in to gauge the prices.
Yangon, but keep in mind that many trips Usually the MTT office offers taxi service
are booked out by tour groups. for only slightly more than the going fare
Several luxury ferries travel the upper use their quote only as a gauge, if youre
and lower reaches of the Ayeyarwady River. keen to spend dollars that dont reach the
One Orient Express Cruises (E&O, Lon- government sector.
don) liner, the joint-venture Road to Mandalay
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D B u s 363
Similar trips are offered by Pandaw 1947 route, you can jump on a bus at a stop along
(%01-376 109; www.pandaw1947.com), apparently the way, eg catch the Mandalay to Yangon
run by a Yangon travel agency. bus at Meiktila. Staff at your guesthouse or
A far cheaper option (US$170 per per- hotel should be able to help with this.
son), yet retaining a little luxury and going A bottle of water is often handed out on
where fewer tourists go, is available aboard better-quality buses. There are no bath-
the privately run Delta Queen (%01-246 752; rooms on the bus, but frequent toilet-and-
www.myanmar-rivercruises.com), which travels be- soup stops perforate the night frustrating
tween Yangon and Pathein in about 20 hours if youve just got to sleep and the bus stops at
(p134). 3am for breakfast. Often TVs blare for much
of the trip usually sticking with Myanmar-
BUS made movies detailing things such as, oh,
TRANSPORT
Almost always faster than trains, Myan- protagonists dying bloody deaths in car
mar buses come in different sizes. Options crashes, but the occasional Raiders of the
include luxury air-con express buses, less Lost Ark slips in.
luxurious but nice buses (without air con), Be aware that temperatures can drop sub-
local buses, and mini 32-seaters. Most are stantially at night. Take a jacket or blanket
operated by private companies, but some (preferably both) on air-con buses in par-
particularly on shorter routes that are geared ticular, which can get quite bone-chillingly
more to locals bringing home rice are still cold.
run by the government. Similar sized but older buses, with no air
See Pick-up Trucks, p366 for other trans- con, make shorter-haul trips, such as direct
port options. links from Yangon to Pyay or Pyinmana
to Yangon.
Classes & Conditions Local buses, or 32-seat minibuses, bounce
Many long-haul trips, such as from Yangon along the highways too. These tend to use
to Mandalay, allow the greatest comfort, the aisles, if not for blokes, for bags of rice,
with new(ish) air-con express buses some veggies or (worst) dried fish. Sometimes the
of which are quite nice. A lot of bus activity floor in front of you is filled too, so youll find
happens at night, with buses leaving from your knees to your chin for some bouncy
3pm to 6pm or later, and arriving at the hours. Getting up to stretch your legs while
final destination in the wee hours (often moving just isnt an option. (Try to sit in the
5am or 6am). front couple of rows, which sometimes have
If you want extra air-con comfort but fewer bags stored, and better visibility.)
dont want to go the whole way on one of Trip durations for all forms of public road
these routes, you usually have to pay the transportation are very elastic. We hear of
full fare (eg going from Mandalay to Taun- travellers on the nicest buses who were
goo you pay the full fare to Yangon) and stopped for hours on the YangonMandalay
will have to deal with a 3am arrival time. highway. (The LP authors on this book
Similarly, by paying the full fare for the had no such troubles, however.) Myanmar
ITINERARIES & OVERNIGHTERS

Theres not one obvious way to travel by bus between Myanmars big four Yangon, Bagan, Inle
Lake and Mandalay. Some of these places have far fewer connections than others. Most trips
are at night, which can take a day or two to recover from depending on your inner shocks
from the bus bumps. Catching a bus from Yangon on the 12- to 15-hour trip to Mandalay is a
breeze, but only one or two services regularly connect to Inle Lake or Bagan and all of these
are overnighters. Trips between Bagan, Inle and Mandalay can be done by day (though only one
or two run daily, and seats fill a couple of days in advance).
Another good way to cut back on overnighters is by hopping off en route to or from Yangon
and stopping for a night at appealing towns such as Taungoo (p290), Pyinmana (p289), Meiktila
(p287) or Pyay (p283 ). These places can be reached by pick-up or local bus, which operate
during the day.
364 G E T T I N G A R O U N D C a r & M o t o r c y c l e www.lonelyplanet.com
superstition says that when youre on a

journey you shouldnt ask anyone How ROAD RULES: TO THE RIGHT!
much longer?, or Brother, when will we All Myanmar traffic goes on the right-hand
arrive?, as this is only tempting fate. side of the road. This wasnt always so. In
Buses of all types do break down some- an effort to distance itself from the British
times. Older buses often stop to hose down colonial period, the military government in-
a hot engine. Some roads one-lane, man- stigated an overnight-switch from the left
gled deals (read: very rough) dont help to the right in 1970. By far, most cars ei-
matters, and tyre punctures occur too. ther date from before 1970, or are low-cost
Japanese models, so steering wheels are
GOVERNMENT BUS perilously found on the right-hand side
Formerly, many buses were operated by the this becomes particularly dicey when a
TRANSPORT
governments Road Transport Enterprise driver blindly zooms to the left to pass a
(RTE). Now essentially only buses between car! If youre in the passenger seat, help
Yangon and Monywa, and Yangon and them look for oncoming traffic.
Kyaukpadaung, are RTE. These are more
geared towards transporting cargo. Theres
no clear sign to indicate which vehicles be- Restricted Roads
long to the RTE, but its very unlikely youll Foreigners are permitted to buy bus tickets
be on one. of any class, using kyat, to any destination
within or near the main YangonBagan
Costs MandalayTaunggyi quadrangle. We also
Unlike for train, plane and most boat tick- found that buses were easily boarded in
ets, you can pay kyat for all bus fares. But, most other places in the country, except
similarly, foreigners will pay more than lo- for areas of restricted travel towards the
cals. Generally minibuses, local 32-seaters, Thai border. See the map on p359 for roads
express buses with no air con, and air-con that are closed to travel.
luxury jobbies charge roughly the same on
overlapping routes. Sample foreigner fares CAR & MOTORCYCLE
and trip times: Many travellers hire a car and an accom-
panying driver. To drive one yourself is
From To Price Duration possible, but permission must be arranged
via the government-run MTT and Road
Bagan Taunggyi K6000 10hrs Transport Administration Department,
Mandalay Bagan K4200 8hrs and you must be accompanied by a local
Mandalay Hsipaw K2300 5hrs at all times.
Mandalay Taunggyi K4500 10-12hrs Business travellers and expats have to
Pyay Taunggok K2500-K4000 8hrs apply to and register with the Road Trans-
Yangon Bagan K6500 14-15hrs port Administration Department and have
Yangon Bago (Pegu) K500-K1000 2hrs an International Driving Licence. These
Yangon Chaungtha K5000 6-7hrs visitors are not bound by the restriction to
Yangon Kyaiktiyo K2500 4hrs have a Myanmar national in the car at all
Yangon Mandalay K6000 12-15hrs times. Anyway, we see our foreign friends
Yangon Taunggyi K6000 20hrs driving alone.
Yangon Pyay K1550 6hrs Driving conditions are poor but often
Yangon Thandwe K4500 17-18hrs better than on many roads in Vietnam,
Cambodia or Laos. Of the 24,000km of
Reservations roads in Myanmar, about half are paved;
From November to February, its necessary the remainder are graded gravel, unim-
to book buses that ply some key routes a proved dirt or simple vehicle tracks.
couple of days in advance, notably to/from
Bagan or Inle Lake, where options are few. Hiring a Car & Driver
Seat reservations are made for all buses. Hiring a car and driver is an increasingly
Ask to see the bus ahead of time to choose popular way to get around the country;
the seat youd like. its also favoured as an easier, time-saving
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D H i t c h i n g 365
expensive (about K2000 per gallon at the

BEWARE JUNK CARS time of research). When Myanmar vehicle
We hear reports of some travellers having owners make an upcountry road trip (the
to abandon travelling in a junk car. The Burmese-English term for any driving out
wisest thing to do before you hire a car is of Yangon), they have to buy fuel on the
to ask at a guesthouse or hotel for reliable black market or carry along numerous jerry
drivers, and also ask a travel agent or two. cans of petrol.
Be sure to meet the driver and see the car Another small cost to consider when trav-
before making a decision to hire. elling by car is the customary K25 or K50
toll collected upon entering many towns
and villages throughout Myanmar a legacy
way of making a day trip. Its quite easy to of the tributes paid to warlord states in cen-
TRANSPORT
hire a reasonably new, air-con car with a turies past. Many drivers are adept at hand-
driver for around US$100 a day; older cars ing these to the toll collectors while barely
without air con cost about half that. For slowing down.
longer-term trips you can negotiate lower
daily rates. Motorcycle
Prices include fuel and up to 12 hours Motorbikes were once restricted for foreign-
of driving per day, and you wont have to ers, but its now possible to rent one, though
cover the drivers own expenses. The cost few locals advertise this. Ask around. In
will usually go up only a few US dollars per Mandalay, for example, its about K8000
extra person in the car or van. per day to rent a motorbike; its a couple
Keep in mind that it can get quite dusty, of thousand kyat less in towns such as My-
particularly around Bagan, if you dont itkyina. Unlike while cycling, you are sup-
have air con. posedly required to wear a helmet while
There are no car-rental agencies per se, riding a motorbike. If ones not available,
but most travel agencies in Yangon, Man- you can buy one (pretty cheaply made) for
dalay or Bagan as well as guesthouses K2000 and up.
and hotels elsewhere can arrange cars and
drivers. In most cases you will be asked to HITCHING
sign a simple contract and pay a good-faith Hitching is never entirely safe in any coun-
deposit. Note that youll pay more for your try in the world, and we dont recommend
hired car if you arrange the deal through it. Travellers who decide to hitch should
touts, such as trishaw drivers and money- understand that they are taking a small
changers. but potentially serious risk. People who do
Among the most popular and reliable choose to hitch will be safer if they travel in
rental cars in the country are second-hand, pairs and let someone know where they are
reconditioned Toyota hatchbacks imported planning to go.
from Japan and called Super-roofs. Myan- One extra reason to avoid hitching in
mar assembles its own Mazda jeeps MJs Myanmar is that local drivers may not know
using 85% local parts. Though mostly a which areas are off limits to foreigners and
government monopoly, these jeeps make may unwittingly transport them into such
decent off-road vehicles. The old US-made, areas. In such cases the driver will probably
WWII-era Willys Jeeps that once character- be punished.
ised outback Myanmar travel are becoming
few and far between. LOCAL TRANSPORT
Prices for new cars have risen with recent Larger towns in Myanmar offer a variety
inflation: from about US$3000 in 1996 to of city buses (ka), bicycle rickshaws or
US$20,000 in 2004. trishaws (saiq-ka, for sidecar), horse carts
Petrol is rationed (four gallons per week) (myint hlei), ox carts, vintage taxis (taxi),
to vehicle owners. If you need more than more modern little three-wheelers some-
this youll have to purchase petrol from what akin to Thai tuk-tuks (thoun bein,
black-market outlets run from makeshift meaning three wheels), tiny four-wheeled
stands everywhere. Prices rise and fall, blue taxi Mazdas (lei bein, meaning four
but black-market petrol is usually twice as wheels) and modern Japanese pick-up
366 G E T T I N G A R O U N D Pi c k- U p T r u c k s www.lonelyplanet.com
trucks (lain ka, meaning line car; see Pick- out, you can still do it and keep your money
Up Trucks, below). in the private sector. See p26 for tips on
Small towns rely heavily on horse carts creating your own package trip. Some re-
and trishaws as the main mode of local stricted areas can only be visited on a tour;
transport. However, in the five largest cities see p106 for details. For details of bicycle
(Yangon, Mandalay, Pathein, Mawlamyine tours, see p361.
and Taunggyi) public buses take regular
routes along the main avenues for a fixed TRAIN
per-person rate, usually K5 to K25. There are as many opinions of Myanmars
Standard rates for taxis, trishaws and oft-maligned train service as there are
horse carts are sometimes boosted for for- people riding it. For some a train ride on
eigners. A little bargaining may be in order. narrow-gauge tracks is like going by horse,
TRANSPORT
Generally a ride from the bus station to a with the old carriages rocking back and
central hotel often a distance of 2km or forth and bouncing everyone lucky enough
more is K1000. Rides around the cen- to have a seat on the hard chairs; others dig
tre can be arranged for K200 or K300. Ask it, as some routes get to areas not reached
around locally to find out what the going by road. One local said, Its not as bad as
fares are. The supply of drivers and vehicles some people say, not as good as you hope.
often exceeds demand, so its usually not Whats known for sure is that train trips
hard to bargain the fare down towards the along the same routes as buses mean extra
levels the locals pay. travel time.
As most trains are run by the government,
PICK-UP TRUCKS many travellers stick with private buses. But
Japanese-made pick-up trucks feature three see below for details of some privately run
rows of bench seats in the covered back. services.
Most pick-ups connect short-distance des- Long-distance trains have dining cars
tinations, making many stops along the accessible to passengers in 1st, upper and
way to pick up people or cargo. They are sleeper class. The food isnt bad fried rice
often packed (yet somehow never full ac- and noodles. Attendants can also take your
cording to the driver). Pick-ups trace some order and bring food to your seat. Trains
useful or necessary routes, such as from stop pretty often too, with vendors on plat-
Mandalay to Amarapura, from Myingyan forms offering all sorts of snacks. Toilet/
to Meiktila and from Pyinmana to Taun- bathrooms are basic; there are also sinks
goo. Unlike buses, they go regularly during to wash hands and brush teeth. Attendants
the day. sometimes hire out bamboo mats to spread
Fares are not necessarily cheaper than on the floor in aisles or under seats if you
those charged for local bus trips of the same cant sleep upright. North of Mandalay it
length, and prices often double after dark. can get cold at night, so bring a jacket and/
You can, however, pay 25% to 50% extra or a blanket.
for a seat up the front. Its often worth the To guarantee a seat on most trains with
extra expense, if dont want to do scrunch upper and sleeper cars, book three days or
duty. Sometimes you may share your spot more in advance. At smaller stations, agents
with a monk riding for free; usually you may get confused by the fact that you want
get exactly what you pay for (the whole a ticket from them and sell you a ride at the
front), unlike in some other parts of South- local price the difference can be paying
east Asia. K250 instead of K4000!
Pick-ups often start from the bus sta- Major train routes tend to require pay-
tion (in some towns they linger under a big ment in US dollars or FEC.
banyan tree in the centre) and then, unlike
many buses, make rounds through the cen- Private Railways
tral streets to snare more passengers. Although most trains are operated by the
government-owned Myanma Railways, a
TOURS few private enterprises have come into ex-
Many high-end hotels offer expensive day istence as well. Between Yangon and Man-
tours. If you want to have your trip planned dalay, the private Dagon Mann (DM) runs
www.lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n 367
express trains that are more pleasant than from Bago theres a branch southeast to
the state-run express trains. These trains Kyaiktiyo (the jumping-off point for the
stop at Thazi. See departure times in the Golden Rock; see p149) and on to Mottawa,
table, p368. a short ferry ride from Mawlamyine.
Two private companies, Malihka Man- An express line now runs between Bagan/
dalar and Mehka Mandalar, operate trains Nyaung U and Mandalay (though this was
along the MandalayMyitkyina line. On built with forced labour in the mid-1990s).
this route the only alternative is the very At Mandalay there are three branch lines:
slow and uncomfortable government train. one running slightly northwest across the
For information on reserving a seat on a Ava Bridge and up to Ye-U, one directly
privately run train, see p368. north to Myitkyina in Kachin State and one
northeast through Pyin U Lwin to Lashio in
Myanma Railways
TRANSPORT
the northern part of Shan State.
Myanmar maintains 4684km of 1m-gauge Note also that Myanmar trains are clas-
railway track much of which is now sified by a number and the suffix Up for
open to foreign tourists and 550 train northbound trains or Down for south-
stations. bound trains. Train numbers are not always
The 647km-long trip from Yangon to used when purchasing tickets.
Mandalay is the only train trip most visi-
tors take though there are plenty of other Classes
routes for the more adventurous. Other Express trains offer two classes of passage,
train journeys worth considering are the upper class and ordinary class, while many
Mandalay (or Pyin U Lwin) train to Lashio trains also offer sleepers. The main differ-
(or Hsipaw), which takes in hilly terrain the ences between ordinary and upper are that
roads miss, and the Yangon to Mawlamyine the seats recline and can be reserved in the
route. latter, while ordinary class features hard
On the Yangon to Mandalay route there upright seats that cant be reserved. Some
are daily and nightly reserved carriages on trains also offer another class of service
express trains, where you can be sure of called 1st class, which is a step down from
getting a seat. One way to tell whether an upper in comfort.
approaching train is express or local is to The No 15 Up/No 16 Down train be-
check the engine colour: express engines tween Yangon and Mandalay is a special
are generally painted yellow; local ones express that uses relatively new Chinese
blue. equipment. The upper-class Chinese cars
The express trains are far superior to contain 30 wide seats in rows of three; other
the general run of Myanmar trains. Other express trains may use older South Korean
trains are late, almost by rule taking one cars that also seat three across but contain
12-hour train trip that ends up running as 40 seats (so theres less room).
much as 15 hours late is enough for most The No 15 Up/No 16 Down and the No
travellers. The Mandalay to Myitkyina 17 Up/No 18 Down trains also have sleep-
route, though scheduled to take around ing cars. These are sometimes occupied
24 hours, often takes up to 40 hours. In by Myanmar VIPs or foreign tour groups.
1995 this train derailed, killing 120 people, Some sleeping cars contain five cabins,
and in 2001 a bridge collapsed, killing an each with four berths, a fan, a light and a
equal number. Even on the far more trav- small table with a washbasin underneath.
elled YangonMandalay route, delays are Older sleeping cars are divided into two
common. sections, each with four berths and a toilet
Apart from the straightforward Yangon and shower room.
BagoPyinmanaThaziMandalay route, Foreigners arent permitted to ride in
you can also take the branch line from ordinary class on the Yangon to Mandalay
Pyinmana to Kyaukpadaung (about 50km line.
south of Bagan) or the branch from Thazi
to Shwen-yaung (about 11km north of Inle Costs
Lake). From Yangon lines also run north- Following are sample fares and scheduled
west to Pyay, with a branch to Pathein; times as quoted in Yangon.
368 G E T T I N G A R O U N D T r a i n www.lonelyplanet.com
YANGON TO MANDALAY TRAINS

The main trains of interest to travellers are listed below
Yangon to Mandalay via Thazi

Train departure arrival arrival fare (1st class) fare
(Yangon) (Thazi) (Mandalay) (Thazi) (Mandalay) (sleeper)*
11 Up 6am 5.52pm 9.10pm US$26 US$30 n/a

17 Up 3.15pm 2.35am 5.20am na US$45 US$48-50
(Dagon-Mann)
15 Up 5pm 5.15am 8am na US$35 n/a
TRANSPORT
(Special Express)
5 Up 6.30pm 6.17am 9.40am US$26 US$30 US$33
3 Up 7.30pm 8.37am noon US$26 US$30 US$33
Mandalay to Yangon via Thazi

Train departure arrival arrival fare (1st class) fare
(Mandalay) (Thazi) (Yangon) (Thazi) (Yangon) (sleeper)*
18 Down 3.15pm 6.15pm 6.20am na US$45 US$48-50

(Dagon-Mann)
16 Down 4.15pm 7.15pm 7.15am US$15 US$35 n/a
6 Down 5.15pm 8.15pm 8.25am US$15 US$30 US$33
4 Down 6.15pm 9.13pm 10.40am US$15 US$30 US$33
* Note that fares for a sleeper to/from Thazi are the same as those to Mandalay or Yangon.
Reservations season (November to March), when berths

For bookings on the private Yangon are booked weeks in advance. If you hold a
Mandalay or MandalayMyitkyina train seat on a train pulling a sleeper car, you can
services, hook up with travel agents; see try to upgrade to a berth after you board. If
p89 for Yangon and p229 for Mandalay. any berths are available due to last-minute
For government-run services along the cancellations, you should be able to move
YangonMandalay line, all foreigners are from seat to berth by paying the additional
supposed to purchase tickets from the MTT fare directly to the conductor.
or from the Advance Booking Office (Bogyoke Aung To buy tickets at other train stations you
San Rd; h6am-10am & 1-4pm), directly opposite can use the same ticket windows as the
the Sakura Tower. MTT sets aside seats for locals. For common tourist destinations
foreigners, which means that they often have Bago, Pyin U Lwin, Kyaiktiyo a US dollar/
seats when the booking office or station FEC fare is usually collected. Going to other
window says that the train is full. Contrary points via nonexpress trains, you may be
to rumour, we found the fares to be exactly able to pay in kyat but consider yourself
the same at both places, though prices differ lucky if you can.
according to which express train you take, If youre having trouble buying a ticket
even along the same line. A days notice is or making yourself understood at a train
usually enough to book a seat. station, try seeking out the stationmaster
If you want to try your luck at getting a the person at the station who is most likely
coveted sleeper, youll need at least a couple to speak English and most inclined to help
of days notice longer during the high you get a seat.
369
Health Dr Trish Batchelor
medical conditions and medications, in-

cluding generic names, is also a good idea.
CONTENTS If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to
have a physicians letter documenting their
Before You Go 369 medical necessity. If you have a heart con-
Insurance 369 dition, bring a copy of your ECG taken just
Recommended Vaccinations 370 prior to travelling.
Medical Checklist 370 If you take any regular medication bring
Internet Resources 371 double your needs in case of loss or theft.
Further Reading 371
In Transit 371 INSURANCE
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 371 Even if you are fit and healthy, dont travel
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 371 without health insurance accidents do
In Myanmar 372 happen. Declare any existing medical con-
Availability of Health Care & Costs 372 ditions you have the insurance company
Infectious Diseases 372 will check if your problem is pre-existing
Travellers Diarrhoea 374 and will not cover you if it is undeclared.
Environmental Hazards 375 You may require extra cover for adventure
Travelling With Children 377 activities such as rock climbing. If your
Womens Health 377 health insurance doesnt cover you for
Traditional Medicine 377 medical expenses abroad, consider getting
H E A LT H
extra insurance. If youre uninsured, emer-
Health issues and the quality of medical gency evacuation is expensive bills of over
facilities vary enormously depending on US$100,000 are not uncommon.
where and how you travel in Myanmar. Find out in advance if your insurance
Many of the major cities are now very well plan will make payments directly to pro-
developed, although travel to rural areas viders or reimburse you later for overseas
can expose you to a variety of health risks health expenditures. (In many countries
and inadequate medical care. doctors will expect payment in cash.) Some
Travellers tend to worry about contracting policies offer lower and higher medical-
infectious diseases when in the tropics, but expense options; the higher ones are
infections are a rare cause of serious illness chiefly for countries that have extremely
or death in travellers. Pre-existing medical high medical costs, such as the USA. You
conditions such as heart disease, and acci- may prefer a policy that pays doctors or
dental injury (especially traffic accidents), hospitals directly rather than you having
account for most life-threatening problems.
Becoming ill in some way, however, is rela-
tively common. Fortunately, most common Dr Trish Batchelor wrote the Health chapter. She
illnesses can either be prevented with some is a general practitioner and travel medicine
common-sense behaviour or be treated easily specialist who works at the Ciwec Clinic in
with a well-stocked travellers medical kit. Kathmandu, Nepal. She is also a medical
The following advice is a general guide advisor to the Travel Doctor New Zealand
only and does not replace the advice of a clinics. Trish teaches travel medicine through
doctor trained in travel medicine. the University of Otago, and is interested in
underwater and high-altitude medicine, and
BEFORE YOU GO in the impact of tourism on host countries. She

has travelled extensively through Southeast
and East Asia, and particularly loves high-
Pack medications in their original, clearly altitude trekking in the Himalaya.
labelled, containers. A signed and dated
letter from your physician describing your
370 B E F O R E Y O U G O R e c o m m e n d e d Va c c i n a t i o n s www.lonelyplanet.com
to pay on the spot and claim later. If you Most vaccines dont produce immunity
have to claim later, make sure you keep all until at least two weeks after theyre given,
documentation. Some policies ask you to so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before
call back (reverse charges) to a centre in departure. Ask your doctor for an Interna-
your home country, where an immediate tional Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise
assessment of your problem is made. known as the yellow booklet), which will
list all the vaccinations youve received.
RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS
Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your MEDICAL CHECKLIST
best source of information; they stock all Recommended items for a personal medi-
available vaccines and will be able to give cal kit:
specific recommendations for you and your Antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole
trip. The doctors will take into account fac- Antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin
tors such as past vaccination history, the Antibiotic for possible skin infections, eg
length of your trip, activities you may be Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin
undertaking and underlying medical condi- Antibiotics for diarrhoea, such as Nor-
tions, such as pregnancy. floxacin or Ciprofloxacin; for bacterial
REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS

The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will
only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior
to entering Myanmar. If you are travelling to Myanmar from Africa or South America you should
check to see if you require proof of vaccination.
The World Health Organization recommends the following vaccinations for all travellers to
H E A LT H
Myanmar:
Adult diphtheria and tetanus Single booster recommended if none in the previous 10 years. Side effects
include sore arm and fever.
Hepatitis A Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another
20 years protection. Mild side effects such as headache and sore arm occur in 5% to 10% of people.
Hepatitis B Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is
also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually headache
and sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people.
Measles, mumps and rubella Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a
rash and flulike illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster.
Polio In 2002 no countries in Southeast Asia reported cases of polio. Only one booster required as an adult for
lifetime protection. Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during pregnancy.
Typhoid Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers around
70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the
injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur.
Varicella If you havent had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.
These immunisations are recommended for long-term travellers (more than one month) or those
at special risk, for example due to spending a lot of time in rural areas:
Japanese B Encephalitis Three injections in all. Booster recommended after two years. Sore arm and headache
are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days
after any of the three doses.
Meningitis A single injection. There are two types of vaccination: the quadrivalent vaccine gives two to three
years protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years protection. Recommended for long-term
backpackers aged under 25.
Rabies Three injections in all. A booster after one year will then provide 10 years protection. Side effects are rare
occasionally headache and sore arm.
Tuberculosis A complex issue. Adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before
and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine given in a lifetime.
www.lonelyplanet.com I N T R A N S I T D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) 371
diarrhoea, such as Azithromycin; and for

giardiasis or amoebic dysentery, such as HEALTH ADVISORIES
Tinidazole Its usually a good idea to consult your
Antihistamine there are many options, eg governments travel-health website before
Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine departure, if one is available:
for night Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/)
Antiseptic, eg Betadine Canada (www.travelhealth.gc.ca)
Antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg New Zealand (www.mfat.govt.nz/travel)
Buscopa UK (www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/)
Contraceptive method USA (www.cdc.gov/travel/)
Decongestant, eg Pseudoephedrine
DEET-based insect repellent
Diarrhoea treatment consider an oral FURTHER READING
rehydration solution (eg Gastrolyte), diar- Lonely Planets Healthy Travel Asia &
rhoea stopper (eg Loperamide) and anti- India is a handy pocket size and is packed
nausea medication (eg Prochlorperazine) with useful information including pretrip
First-aid items such as scissors, Elasto- planning, emergency first aid, immunisa-
plasts, bandages, gauze, thermometer (but tion and disease information, and what to
not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, do if you get sick on the road. Other rec-
safety pins, and tweezers ommended references include Travellers
Ibuprofen or another anti-inflammatory Health, by Dr Richard Dawood, and Travel-
Indigestion tablets, such as Quick Eze or ling Well, by Dr Deborah Mills check out
Mylanta the website (www.travellingwell.com.au).
Iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or
have a thyroid problem) to purify water
IN TRANSIT
H E A LT H
Laxative, eg Coloxyl
Migraine medicine sufferer should take
their personal medicine DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT )
Paracetamol Deep vein thrombosis (DVT) occurs when
Permethrin to impregnate clothing and blood clots form in the legs during plane
mosquito nets flights, chiefly because of prolonged immo-
Steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg bility. The longer the flight, the greater
1% to 2% hydrocortisone the risk. Though most blood clots are re-
Sunscreen and hat absorbed uneventfully, some may break off
Throat lozenges and travel through the blood vessels to the
Thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treat- lungs, where they may cause life-threatening
ment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflu- complications.
can tablet The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
Ural or an equivalent if prone to urine pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but
infections not always on just one side. When a blood
clot travels to the lungs, it may cause chest
INTERNET RESOURCES pain and difficulty in breathing. Travellers
There is a wealth of travel-health advice on with any of these symptoms should imme-
the Internet. For more information, Lonely diately seek medical attention.
Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place to To prevent the development of DVT on
start. The World Health Organization (WHO; www long flights you should walk about the cab-
.who.int/ith/) publishes a fine book, International in, perform isometric compressions of the
Travel & Health, which is revised annually leg muscles (ie contract the leg muscles
and is available online at no cost. Another while sitting), drink plenty of fluids, and
website of interest is MD Travel Health (www avoid alcohol and tobacco.
.mdtravelhealth.com), which provides complete
travel-health recommendations for every JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
country and is updated daily. The Centers for Jet lag is common when crossing more than
Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) five time zones; it results in insomnia, fa-
website also has good general information. tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
372 I N MYA N MA R Av a i l a b i l i t y o f H e a l t h C a re & C o s t s www.lonelyplanet.com
try drinking plenty of fluids (nonalcoholic) measures at all times. Symptoms include
and eating light meals. Upon arrival, seek high fever, severe headache and body ache
exposure to natural sunlight and readjust (dengue was previously known as break-
your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon bone fever). Some people develop a rash and
as possible. experience diarrhoea. There is no specific
Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate treatment, just rest and paracetamol do
(Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert or not take aspirin, as it increases the likeli-
Bonine) are usually a travellers first choice hood of haemorrhaging. See a doctor to be
for treating motion sickness. The main side diagnosed and monitored.
effect is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is
ginger, which works like a charm for some Filariasis
people. A mosquito-borne disease that is very com-
mon in the local population, yet very rare
in travellers. Mosquito-avoidance measures
IN MYANMAR are the best way to prevent this disease.
AVAILABILITY OF HEALTH Hepatitis A

CARE & COSTS This food- and waterborne virus infects
Local medical care is dismal, and local hos- the liver, causing jaundice (yellow skin
pitals should only be used out of despera- and eyes), nausea and lethargy. There is no
tion. Contact your embassy for advice, as specific treatment for hepatitis A; you just
staff will usually direct you to the best alter- need to allow time for the liver to heal. All
natives. Be aware that getting Western-style travellers to Myanmar should be vaccinated
health care may not come cheap. against hepatitis A.
Self-treatment may be appropriate if your
H E A LT H
problem is minor (eg travellers diarrhoea), Hepatitis B

you are carrying the appropriate medica- The only sexually transmitted disease that
tion and you cannot attend a recommended can be prevented by vaccination, hepatitis
clinic in Yangon or Mandalay. If you think B is spread by body fluids, including sexual
you may have a serious disease, especially contact. In some parts of this region up to
malaria, do not waste time travel to the 20% of the population are carriers of hepa-
nearest quality facility to receive attention. titis B, and usually are unaware of this. The
It is always better to be assessed by a doctor long-term consequences can include liver
than to rely on self-treatment. cancer and cirrhosis.
Buying medication over the counter is not
recommended in Myanmar, as fake medica- Hepatitis E
tions and poorly stored or out-of-date drugs Hepatitis E is transmitted through contami-
are common. nated food and water and has similar symp-
toms to hepatitis A, but is far less common.
INFECTIOUS DISEASES It is a severe problem in pregnant women
Cutaneous Larva Migrans and can result in the death of both mother
This disease is caused by dog hookworm. and baby. There is currently no vaccine, and
The rash starts as a small lump, then slowly prevention is by following safe eating and
spreads in a linear fashion. It is intensely drinking guidelines.
itchy, especially at night. It is easily treated
with medications and should not be cut out HIV
or frozen. Myanmar is among the list of countries in
Asia with the highest rate of HIV infec-
Dengue tion and the problem is increasing. Het-
This mosquito-borne disease is becomingly erosexual sex is now the main method of
increasingly problematic throughout My- transmission.
anmar. As there is no vaccine available it
can only be prevented by avoiding mosquito Influenza
bites. The mosquito that carries dengue Present year round in the tropics, influenza
bites day and night, so use insect-avoidance (flu) symptoms include high fever, muscle
www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 373
aches, runny nose, cough and sore throat. It Choose accommodation with screens and
can be very severe in people over the age of fans (if not air-con)
65 or in those with underlying medicalcon- Impregnate clothing with Permethrin in
ditions such as heart disease or diabetes high-risk areas
vaccination is recommended for these Wear long sleeves and trousers in light
individuals. There is no specific treatment, colours
just rest and paracetamol. Use mosquito coils
Spray your room with insect repellent
Japanese B Encephalitis before going out for your evening meal
While this is a rare disease in travellers, at
least 50,000 locals are infected each year. Some available medications:
This viral disease is transmitted by mosqui- Artesunate Derivatives of Artesunate are not suitable as
toes. Most cases occur in rural areas, and a preventive medication. They are useful treatments under
vaccination is recommended for travellers medical supervision.
spending more than one month outside cit- Chloroquine and Paludrine The effectiveness of this
ies. There is no treatment, and a third of combination is now limited in most of Southeast Asia.
infected people will die while another third Common side effects include nausea (40% of people) and
will suffer permanent brain damage. mouth ulcers. Generally not recommended.
Doxycycline This daily tablet is a broad-spectrum
Malaria antibiotic that has the added benefit of helping to prevent
For such a serious and potentially deadly a variety of tropical diseases, including leptospirosis,
disease, there is an enormous amount of tick-borne disease, typhus and meliodosis. The potential
misinformation concerning malaria and side effects include photosensitivity (a tendency to
malaria medication. You must get expert sunburn), thrush in women, indigestion, heartburn, nausea
advice as to whether the destinations you and interference with the contraceptive pill. More serious
H E A LT H
are going to will put you at risk. For most side effects include ulceration of the oesophagus you can
rural areas, however, the risk of contracting help prevent this by taking your tablet with a meal and
the disease far outweighs the risk of any a large glass of water, and never lying down within half
tablet side effects. Remember that malaria an hour of taking it. Must be taken for four weeks after
can be fatal. Before you travel, seek medical leaving the risk area.
advice on the right medication and dosage Lariam (Mefloquine) Lariam has received much bad
for you. press, some of it justified, some not. This weekly tablet
Malaria is caused by a parasite transmit- suits many people. Serious side effects are rare but include
ted by the bite of an infected mosquito. depression, anxiety, psychosis and having fits. Anyone with
The most important symptom of malaria a history of depression, anxiety, other psychological
is fever, but general symptoms such as disorder, or epilepsy should not take Lariam. It is
headache, diarrhoea, cough or chills may considered safe in the second and third trimesters of
also occur. Diagnosis can only be made by pregnancy. It is around 90% effective in most parts of
taking a blood sample. Southeast Asia. Tablets must be taken for four weeks after
Two strategies should be combined to leaving the risk area.
prevent malaria mosquito avoidance and Malarone This new drug is a combination of Atovaquone
antimalarial medications. Most people who and Proguanil. Side effects are uncommon and mild, most
catch malaria are taking inadequate or no commonly nausea and headache. It is the best tablet for
antimalarial medication. scuba divers and for those on short trips to high-risk areas.
Travellers are advised to prevent mos- It must be taken for one week after leaving the risk area.
quito bites by taking these steps:
Use an insect repellent containing DEET A final option is to take no preventive med-
on exposed skin. Wash this off at night, as ication but to have a supply of emergency
long as you are sleeping under a mosquito medication should you develop the symp-
net. Natural repellents such as citronella toms of malaria. This is less than ideal, and
can be effective but must be applied more youll need to get to a good medical facility
frequently than products containing within 24 hours of developing a fever. If you
DEET. choose this option the most effective and
Sleep under a mosquito net impregnated safest treatment is Malarone (four tablets
with Permethrin once daily for three days). Other options
374 I N MYA N MA R T r a v e l l e r s D i a r r h o e a www.lonelyplanet.com
include Mefloquine and quinine, but the significant contact with the local popula-
side effects of these drugs at treatment tion should take precautions. Vaccination
doses make them less desirable. Fansidar is is usually only given to children under the
no longer recommended. age of five, but pre- and post-travel TB test-
ing is recommended for adults at risk. The
Measles main symptoms are fever, cough, weight
This highly contagious bacterial infection loss, night sweats and tiredness.
is spread by coughing and sneezing. Most
people born before 1966 are immune, as Typhoid
they had the disease in childhood. Measles This serious bacterial infection is spread via
starts with a high fever and rash and can food and water. It gives a high and slowly
be complicated by pneumonia and brain progressive fever and a headache, and may
disease. There is no specific treatment. be accompanied by a dry cough and stom-
ach pain. It is diagnosed by blood tests and
Rabies treated with antibiotics. Vaccination is rec-
This uniformly fatal disease is spread by ommended for all travellers spending more
the bite or lick of an infected animal most than a week in Myanmar and other parts of
commonly a dog or monkey. You should Southeast Asia. Be aware that vaccination
seek medical advice immediately after any is not 100% effective, so you must still be
animal bite and commence postexposure careful with what you eat and drink.
treatment. Having pretravel vaccination
means the postbite treatment is greatly sim- Typhus
plified. If an animal bites you, gently wash Murine typhus is spread by the bite of a
the wound with soap and water, and apply flea, whereas scrub typhus is spread via a
iodine-based antiseptic. If you are not pre- mite. These diseases are rare in travellers.
H E A LT H
vaccinated you will need to receive rabies Symptoms include fever, muscle pains and
immunoglobulin as soon as possible. a rash. You can avoid these diseases by fol-
lowing general insect-avoidance measures.
STDs Doxycycline will also prevent them.
Sexually transmitted diseases most common
in Myanmar include herpes, warts, syphilis, TRAVELLERS DIARRHOEA
gonorrhoea and chlamydia. People carrying Travellers diarrhoea is the most common
these diseases often have no signs of infec- problem affecting travellers between 30%
tion. Condoms will prevent gonorrhoea and 50% of people will suffer from it within
and chlamydia but not warts or herpes. If two weeks of starting their trip. In over 80%
after a sexual encounter you develop any of cases, travellers diarrhoea is caused by
rash, lumps, discharge or pain when passing a bacterium (there are numerous potential
urine, seek immediate medical attention. If culprits), and therefore responds promptly to
sexually active during your travels, have an treatment with antibiotics. Treatment with
STD check on your return home. antibiotics will depend on your situation
how sick you are, how quickly you need to
Strongyloides get better, where you are etc.
This parasite, also transmitted by skin contact Diarrhoea is defined as the passage of
with soil, is common but rarely affects travel- more than three watery bowel movements
lers. It is characterised by an unusual skin within a 24-hour perod, plus at least one
rash called larva currens a linear rash on other symptom such as nausea, vomiting,
the trunk that comes and goes. Most people fever, cramps or feeling generally unwell.
dont have other symptoms until their im- Treatment consists of staying well hy-
mune system becomes severely suppressed, drated; rehydration solutions such as Gas-
when the parasite can cause a massive infec- trolyte are the best for this. Antibiotics such
tion. It can be treated with medications. as Norfloxacin, Ciprofloxacin or Azithro-
mycin will kill the bacteria quickly.
Tuberculosis Loperamide is just a stopper and doesnt
While rare in travellers, medical and aid get to the cause of the problem. It can be
workers and long-term travellers who have helpful, for example if you have to go on
www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 375
a long bus ride. Dont take Loperamide if country there are certain medical con-
you have a fever, or blood in your stools. ditions that are incompatible with diving,
Seek medical attention quickly if you do not and economic considerations may override
respond to an appropriate antibiotic. health considerations for some dive opera-
tors that operate in Myanmar.
Amoebic Dysentery
Amoebic dysentery is very rare in travellers Food
but is often misdiagnosed by poor-quality Eating in restaurants is the biggest risk factor
labs in Southeast Asia. Symptoms are simi- for contracting travellers diarrhoea. Ways to
lar to bacterial diarrhoea, ie fever, bloody avoid it include eating only freshly cooked
diarrhoea and generally feeling unwell. You food and avoiding shellfish and food that has
should always seek reliable medical care if been sitting around in buffets. Peel all fruit,
you have blood in your diarrhoea. Treat- cook vegetables and soak salads in iodine
ment involves two drugs: Tinidazole or water for at least 20 minutes. Eat in busy res-
Metroniadzole to kill the parasite in your taurants with a high turnover of customers.
gut and then a second drug to kill the cysts.
If left untreated complications such as liver Heatstroke
or gut abscesses can occur. Many parts of Myanmar are hot and humid
throughout the year. For most people it
Giardiasis takes at least two weeks to adapt to the hot
Giardia lamblia is a parasite that is relatively climate. Swelling of the feet and ankles is
common in travellers. Symptoms include common, as are muscle cramps caused by
nausea, bloating, excess gas, fatigue and in- excessive sweating. Prevent these by avoid-
termittent diarrhoea. Eggy burps are often ing dehydration and excessive activity in
attributed solely to giardiasis, but work in the heat. Take it easy when you first arrive.
H E A LT H
Nepal has shown that they are not specific Dont eat salt tablets (they aggravate the
to this infection. The parasite will eventually gut), but drinking rehydration solution or
go away if left untreated, but this can take eating salty food helps. Treat cramps by
months. The treatment of choice is Tinida- stopping activity, resting, rehydrating with
zole, with Metronidazole being a second- double-strength rehydration solution and
line option. gently stretching.
Dehydration is the main contributor to
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS heat exhaustion. Symptoms can include feel-
Air Pollution ing weak, headache, irritability, nausea or
Air pollution, particularly vehicle pollution,
is an increasing problem. If you have severe
respiratory problems speak with your doc- DRINKING WATER
tor before travelling to any heavily polluted Never drink tap water
urban centres. This pollution also causes
Bottled water is generally safe check
minor respiratory problems such as sinus-
the seal is intact at purchase
itis, dry throat and irritated eyes. If troubled
by the pollution, leave the city for a few Avoid ice
days and get some fresh air. Avoid fresh juices they may have been
watered down
Diving Boiling water is the most efficient
Divers and surfers should seek specialised
method of purifying it
advice before they travel to ensure their
medical kit contains treatment for coral The best chemical purifier is iodine; it
cuts and tropical ear infections, as well as should not be used by pregnant women
the standard problems. Divers should en- or those with thyroid problems
sure their insurance covers them for de- Water filters should also filter out
compression illness get specialised dive viruses; ensure your filter has a chemical
insurance through an organisation such as barrier such as iodine and a small pore
Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.danseap.org). Have size, eg less than four microns
a dive medical before you leave your home
376 I N MYA N MA R E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s www.lonelyplanet.com
vomiting, sweaty skin, a fast, weak pulse If you have had a tick bite and experience
and a normal or slightly elevated body tem- symptoms such as a rash at the site of the
perature. Treatment involves getting the bite or elsewhere, fever or muscle aches you
person out of the heat and/or sun, fanning should see a doctor. Doxycycline prevents
them and applying cool, wet cloths to their tickborne diseases.
skin, laying them flat with their legs raised, Leeches are found in humid rainforest
and rehydrating them with water contain- areas. They do not transmit any disease,
ing teaspoon of salt per litre. Recovery is but their bites are often intensely itchy for
usually rapid, and it is common to feel weak weeks afterwards and can easily become in-
for some days afterwards. fected. Apply an iodine-based antiseptic to
Heatstroke is a serious medical emer- any leech bite to help prevent infection.
gency. Symptoms come on suddenly and Bee and wasp stings mainly cause prob-
include weakness, nausea, a hot, dry body lems for people who are allergic to them.
with a body temperature of over 41C, diz- Anyone with a serious bee or wasp allergy
ziness, confusion, loss of coordination, fits should carry an injection of adrenaline (eg
and eventually collapse and loss of con- an Epipen) for emergency treatment. For
sciousness. Seek medical help and com- others pain is the main problem apply ice
mence cooling by getting the person out of to the sting and take painkillers.
the heat, removing their clothes, fanning Most jellyfish in Southeast Asian waters
them and applying cool, wet cloths or ice are not dangerous, just irritating. First aid for
to their body, especially to the groin and jellyfish stings involves pouring vinegar onto
armpits. the affected area to neutralise the poison.
Prickly heat is a common skin rash in Do not rub sand or water onto the stings.
the tropics, caused by sweat being trapped Take painkillers, and anyone who feels ill
under the skin. The result is an itchy rash in any way after being stung should seek
H E A LT H
of tiny lumps. Treat by moving out of the medical advice. Take local advice if there are
heat and into an air-con area for a few hours dangerous jellyfish around and keep out of
and by having cool showers. Creams and the water.
ointments clog the skin, so they should be
avoided. Locally bought prickly-heat pow- Parasites
der can be helpful. Numerous parasites are common in local
Tropical fatigue is common in long-term populations; however, most of these are
expats based in the tropics. Its rarely due rare in travellers. The two rules to follow
to disease and is caused by the climate, if you wish to avoid parasitic infections
inadequate mental rest, excessive alcohol are to wear shoes and to avoid eating raw
intake and the demands of daily work in a food, especially fish, pork and vegetables.
different culture. A number of parasites are transmitted via
the skin by walking barefoot; these include
Insect Bites & Stings strongyloides, hookworm and cutaneous
Bedbugs dont carry disease, but their bites Larva migrans.
are very itchy. They live in the cracks of
furniture and walls and then migrate to the Skin Problems
bed at night to feed on you. You can treat Fungal rashes are common in humid cli-
the itch with an antihistamine. mates. There are two common fungal rashes
Lice inhabit various parts of your body that affect travellers. The first occurs in
but most commonly your head and pubic moist areas that get less air such as the
area. Transmission is via close contact with groin, the armpits and between the toes. It
an infected person. Lice can be difficult to starts as a red patch that slowly spreads and
treat, and you may need numerous applica- is usually itchy. Treatment involves keeping
tions of an antilice shampoo such as Per- the skin dry, avoiding chafing and using an
methrin. Pubic lice are usually contracted antifungal cream such as Clotrimazole or
from sexual contact. Lamisil. Tinea versicolor is also common
Ticks are contracted after walking in rural this fungus causes small, light-coloured
areas. Ticks are commonly found behind patches, most commonly on the back, chest
the ears, on the belly and in the armpits. and shoulders. Consult a doctor.
www.lonelyplanet.com I N MYA N MA R T r a v e l l i n g w i t h C h i l d re n 377
Cuts and scratches easily become infected tween 16 and 28 weeks), when the risk of
in humid climates. Take meticulous care pregnancy-related problems is at its lowest
of any cuts and scratches to prevent com- and pregnant women generally feel at their
plications such as abscesses. Immediately best. During the first trimester there is a risk
wash all wounds in clean water and apply of miscarriage and in the third trimester
antiseptic. If you develop signs of infection complications such as premature labour and
(increasing pain and redness) see a doctor. high blood pressure are possible. Its wise
Divers and surfers should be particularly to travel with a companion. Always carry a
careful with coral cuts as they easily become list of quality medical facilities available at
infected. your destination and ensure that you con-
tinue your standard antenatal care at these
Snakes facilities. Avoid rural travel in areas with
Myanmar is home to many species of both poor transportation and medical facilities.
poisonous and harmless snakes. Assume all Most of all, ensure that your travel insur-
snakes are poisonous and never try to catch ance covers all pregnancy-related possibili-
one. Always wear boots and long pants if ties, including premature labour.
walking in an area that may have snakes. Malaria is a high-risk disease in preg-
First aid in the event of a snakebite involves nancy. WHO recommends that pregnant
pressure immobilisation with an elastic women do not travel to areas with Chloro-
bandage firmly wrapped around the affected quine-resistant malaria. None of the more
limb, starting at the bite site and working up effective antimalarial drugs are completely
towards the chest. The bandage should not safe in pregnancy.
be so tight that the circulation is cut off, and Travellers diarrhoea can quickly lead to
the fingers or toes should be kept free so the dehydration and result in inadequate blood
circulation can be checked. Immobilise the flow to the placenta. Many of the drugs
H E A LT H
limb with a splint and carry the victim to used to treat various diarrhoea bugs are not
medical attention. Do not use tourniquets recommended in pregnancy. Azithromycin
or try to suck the venom out. Antivenom is is considered safe.
available for most species. In Yangon and Mandalay, supplies of san-
itary products are readily available. Birth-
Sunburn control options may be limited, so bring
Even on a cloudy day sunburn can occur adequate supplies of your own form of con-
rapidly. Always use a strong sunscreen (at traception. Heat, humidity and antibiotics
least factor 30), making sure to reapply after can all contribute to thrush. Treatment is
a swim, and always wear a wide-brimmed with antifungal creams and pessaries such
hat and sunglasses outdoors. Avoid lying as Clotrimazole. A practical alternative is a
in the sun during the hottest part of the single tablet of Fluconazole (Diflucan). Uri-
day (10am to 2pm). If you become sun- nary tract infections can be precipitated by
burnt stay out of the sun until you have dehydration or long bus journeys without
recovered, apply cool compresses and take toilet stops; bring suitable antibiotics.
painkillers for the discomfort. A 1% hy-
drocortisone cream applied twice daily is TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
also helpful. Throughout Myanmar traditional medical
systems are widely practised. There is a big
TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN difference between these traditional healing
The main point to keep in mind is that chil- systems and folk medicine. Folk remedies
dren get dehydrated very quickly, so they should be avoided, as they often involve
will need to take liquids on a regular basis. rather dubious procedures with potential
This becomes more critical if they are suf- complications. In comparison, traditional
fering from diarrhoea. healing systems such as traditional Chinese
medicine are well respected, and aspects of
WOMENS HEALTH them are being increasingly used by West-
Pregnant women should receive specialised ern medical practitioners.
advice before travelling. The ideal time to All traditional Asian medical systems
travel is during the second trimester (be- identify a vital life force, and see blockage
378 I N MYA N MA R T r a d i t i o n a l M e d i c i n e www.lonelyplanet.com
or imbalance as causing disease. Techniques medicines should be avoided for treating

such as herbal medicines, massage, and acu- serious acute infections such as malaria.
puncture are utilised to bring this vital force Be aware that natural doesnt always
back into balance or to maintain balance. mean safe, and there can be drug interac-
These therapies are best used for treating tions between herbal medicines and West-
chronic disease such as chronic fatigue, ern medicines. If you are using both systems
arthritis, irritable bowel syndrome and ensure that you inform both practitioners
some chronic skin conditions. Traditional what the other has prescribed.
H E A LT H
379
Language
Vowels
Burmese has many vowel sounds, which
CONTENTS occur in open, nasalised and stopped forms.
Nasalisation is produced by pronouncing
Pronunciation 379 vowels so that the air is released through
Tones 380 the nose, rather than the mouth; English
Transliteration 380 speakers can approximate this by putting a
Accommodation 380 weak n at the end of such a syllable. In this
Conversation & Essentials 381 guide the nasalisation is indicated by n after
Directions 381 the vowel, eg ein (house).
Emergencies 382
Health 382 Non-nasalised
Language Difficulties 383 i as in police
Numbers 383 e as in they
Shopping & Services 383 eh as the first e in elephant
Time & Dates 384 a as in father
Transport 384 aw as the British pronounce law
o as in go
u as in chute
Myanmars official language is Burmese, the
language of the Bamar majority. Speakers of Nasalised Stopped
Burmese and related dialects comprise in as in sin iq as in sit
nearly 80% of the population. Making up ein as in veineiq as in late
another 10% of the population are speakers eq as in bet
of Tai languages, which include the Shan, an as in fun aq as in mat
Khn, Tai L and even a little-known group oun as in bone ouq as in boat
of Lao living near Payathonzu descendents un as in German uq as in foot
of refugees from LaoSiamese wars in the Bund
19th century. Linguists estimate that there ain as in German aiq as in the English
are 107 languages spoken within Myanmar. mein might
Travellers will find basic English widely aun as in brown auq as in out
spoken in urban areas and around popular
LANGUAGE
tourist sites such as Bagan, but venturing Consonants

further afield will require at least some Consonants only occur at the beginning of
basic Burmese. Learning a few words of the a syllable; there are no consonants that
language will make your travel in Bamar- occur after the vowel. The consonants b, d,
majority areas much more enjoyable and j, g, m, n, ng, s, sh, h, z, w, l and y are pro-
rewarding. Travellers who have spent some nounced as in English. The w sound can
time in northern Thailand or Laos and occur on its own, or in combination with
learned some of the respective languages other consonants. Pronouncing the combin-
will be pleasantly surprised to find that ation ng at the beginning of a syllable can
many of these words are understood in Shan be tricky for Westerners; try saying hang
State as well. on, then leave off the ha- to get an idea of
the sound. The following consonants and
PRONUNCIATION combinations may cause confusion:
Mastering Burmese pronunciation is a diz-
zying proposition for the average traveller. th as in thin
While there are elements that dont exist in dh as the th in their
English, with a little practice its not as ny similar to the sound at the beginning
daunting as it at first seems. of the British new
380 L A N G UA G E T o n e s www.lonelyplanet.com
hm, hn, hny, hng, hl made with a puff of air This process is known as transliteration.
just before the nasal or l sound In Burmese writing, the sounds c, c, j are
ng as the ng in hang represented by the letters for k, k, g plus y
or r, so anglicised forms of Burmese often
Aspirated Consonants represent them as ky, gy and so on. One
The aspirated sounds are made with an au- example of this is the unit of currency, caq,
dible puff of air after the consonant; in Eng- which is usually written kyat in the Roman
lish, the letters p, t and k are aspirated alphabet. Aspirated consonants (k, s, t and
when they occur at the beginning of a word, p) may be transliterated with an h either
eg pit, tab and kit. Unaspirated exam- before or after the consonant. A creaky tone
ples of these sounds occur in words such as may be indicated by a final t, eg Hpakant (a
spin, stir and skin. town in Kachin State).
The unaspirated c and aspirated c are Various combinations of letters may be
similar to the ch in church. Remember used to represent the same vowel sound: e
that sh as in ship, s as in sip and the aspi- and eh are both often transliterated as ay;
rated s are three different sounds. ain may be represented as aing, auq as auk
and so on.
TONES There is no r in Burmese but the sound
Burmese tones seem very tricky, but are appears in some foreign words such as re-
essentially a matter of relative stress be- di-yo (radio). Sometimes its substituted
tween adjoining syllables. There are three with a y. Similarly there is no f or v in
tones, plus two other possibilities. Burmese; loan words containing these con-
Creaky High Tone Dont worry about the funny name! sonants often use p and b respectively.
This is made with the voice tense, producing a high- In this guide, dots have been used to
pitched and relatively short, creaky sound. In the trans-
separate syllables (with the exception of the
literations its indicated by an acute accent above the
vowel, eg k (dance). reduced syllable ) to make it easier to de-
Plain High Tone The pitch of the voice starts quite termine the divisions between syllables.
high, then falls for a fairly long time, similar to the However, youll notice that native speakers
pronunciation of words such as squeal, car and way. dont speak with such clear division be-
Its indicated by a grave accent above the vowel, for tween words or syllables.
example k which, conveniently, is also the Burmese word
for car. ACCOMMODATION
Low Tone The voice is relaxed and stays at a low pitch Is there a ... near here?
for a fairly long time, without rising or falling in pitch. ... dinhma shdhl?
If a vowel is unaccented, it indicates that it carries a low ... dIn;"mH;rHiol;">
tone, eg ka (shield).
LANGUAGE
Stopped Syllable This is a very short and high-pitched hotel

syllable, cut off at the end by a sharp catch in the voice hoteh eh;'ty'
(a glottal stop); its similar to the non-sound in the guesthouse
middle of the exclamation, oh-oh, or the Cockney thkogn t'"xuixn'"
pronunciation of t in a word like bottle. Its indicated
by a q after the vowel, eg kaq (join). Be aware that the Can foreigners stay here?
q isnt pronounced. nainngangyth dihma thl ydhl?
Reduced (Weak) Syllable This is a shortened syllable, Nui='=x;"o;" dImH;t'"luirol;">
usually the first of a two-syllable word, which is said
without stress, like the a in ago in English. Only the May I see the room?
vowel a (sometimes preceded by a consonant) occurs kn cbayze?
in a reduced syllable; this is indicated by a small v-like axn'" k'p:rec
symbol above the vowel, eg louq (work). Any syllable Is breakfast included in the price?
except the last in a word can be reduced. knkdhhma mneqsa padhl?
axn'"xqEmH; mnk'c; p:ol;">
TRANSLITERATION
The system used in this language guide is Can I pay in kyat?
just one of many ways that Burmese script caqnh pl yl?
can be rendered into the Roman alphabet. kYp'nEep"luirl;">
www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s 381
I will stay for two nights. Im leaving now. (Goodbye)

hnyeq thmeh thwbaonmeh
NHc'rk't'"my'> o;"p:au"my'>
How much is ...? A smile is often enough to express thanks in

... behlauqlh? Myanmar, but it will still always be appreci-
... .y'el;k'lE> ated if you say thank you in Burmese.
one night Thank you.
tyeq tc'rk' czbh ekY"jU"pE>
two nights Thank you very much.
hnyeq NHc'rk' cz tinbadeh ekY"jU"t='p:ty'>
a single room Its nothing. (Youre welcome)
tyauqkan tc'ey;k'xn'" keiqs mshbab kicmrHip:.U">
a double room
hnyauqkan NHc'ey;k'xn'" Whats your name?
kmy (m)/shn (f) nameh behlo kawdhlh?
This room is good. x='bY;"rH=' n;m' .y'lui exolE>
di kn kandeh dIaxn'" ek;='"ty'> My name is ...
clean cnw (m)/cm (f) ... l kawbadeh
thndeh on'ty' kYn'et;'kYn'm ... lui exp:ty'>
dirty
nyiqpaqdeh c'pt'ty' Im glad to meet you.
kmy (m)/shin (f) nh twyda wnthabadeh
fan (electric)
panka pn'k; x='bY;"rH='nE etrt; vm'"s;p:ty'>
noisy Yes.
sunyandeh zUty' houqkh hut'kE>
pillow No. (for questions containing nouns)
ganon ex:='"au" mhouqpab mhut'p:.U">
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS DIRECTIONS

Hello. (literally, Its a blessing) Is this the way to ...?
diln ... thwdhlnl?
minglaba mgl;p:>
How are you? (Are you well?) dIlm'" ... o;"tElm'"l;">
kmy (m)/shin (f) nekanyhl? How do I get to ...?
LANGUAGE
... ko behlo thwy dhlh?

x='bY;"rH=' enek;='"rE l;">
... kui .y'luio;"rolEE>
Im well.
nekanbadeh enek;='"p:ty'> Can I walk there?
Have you eaten? lnshauqyin yml?
tmn spbil? qm='"c;"pI"pIl;"> lm'"elY;k'r=' rml;">
Ive eaten.
spbabi c;"pI"p:pI> Is it nearby?
Where are you going? dinhmal? dIn;"mH;l;">
beh thwmllh? .y'o;"mliulE> Is it far?
wdhl? ev"ol;">
left
To this, a general, non-specific reply is di-
behbeq .y'.k'
n-l-bh, which means literally, just around right
here. However, you could say: nyabeq ;.k'
straight (ahead)
Im going back to my hotel. thdh t't'
hotehgo pyantwmeh very far away
hiuty'kui pn'et;my'> theiq wdeh oip'ev"ty'>
382 L A N G UA G E E m e r g e n c i e s www.lonelyplanet.com
not so far away

theiq mwb oip'mev".U"> EMERGENCIES
north Help!
myauqpeq em;k'.k' kehba! ky'p:>
south Im ill.
taunbeq et;='.k' nemkunb enmek;='".U">
east Im lost.
shbeq aerH .k' ln pyauqnedeh lm'"epY;k'enty'>
west Thief!
nauqpeq aen;k'.k' thk! oUxui">
Ive been robbed.
SIGNS kkanydeh axui"xrty''>
Go away!
av=' Entrance thwzn! o;"cm'">
aqk' Exit Call a doctor!
syawungo kawpba!
v='x='mrHi No Entry
zr;vn'kui exep"p:>
ty'lIfun'" Telephone Call an ambulance!
ez"lip' mes;k'r No Smoking lunading kawpba!
amYi"smI"mY;" mv='r Women Forbidden lUn;t='k;"exep"p:>
/:t'pu mruik'r No Photographs
track/trail lnjan lm'"ek;='"
t;"mc'ny'em Prohibited Area
village ywa r;
aim's;eraim' Toilets
m Women waterfall yedgun ertxn'
kYC" Men
HEALTH
Where is the ...?
What ... is this? ... behhmalh?
da ba ... lh? ... .y'mH;lEE>
d: .; ... lEE> chemist/pharmacy
town szain ez"zui='
my Dmui doctor
street syawun zr;vn'
ln lm'" hospital
LANGUAGE
bus syoun ez"ru

baqsk .t'ck;"
Please call a doctor.
In the Country syawun kawpba
beach kngye km'"ex zr;vn' exep"p:>
countryside tw et; Im allergic to penicillin.
cnaw (m)/cm (f) pnslinnh mthb
field (irrigated) lehgwn ly'k='" kJn'et;'kYn'm p='nIcl='nE mt'.U">
hill taun/kon et;='kun'" Im pregnant.
island cn kJn'" baiq cnedeh/kowun shdeh
buik'kI"enty'kuiy'vn'rHity'>
lake ain aui=' It hurts here.
lake (small, artificial) kan kn' dihma nadeh
map myeboun empu dImH; n;ty'>
I vomit often.
river myiq mc' knkn andeh
sea pinleh p='ly' x,x, an'ty'>
www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E L a n g u a g e D i f f i c u l t i e s 383
I feel faint. 9 9 k
mlhdeh 10 10 (t)seh
mU"lEEty'> 11 11 shtiq
12 12 shhniq
asthma 20 20 hnseh
(pnna)yincaq pn'"n;r='kYp' 35 35 thunzhng
have diarrhoea
wnshwdeh/ vm'"elY;ty' 100 100 tya
wnthwnedeh vm'"o;"enty' 1000 1000 (t)taun
have a fever 10,000 10000 (t)thun
pydeh fY;"ty' 100,000 100000 (t)thin
have a headache 1,000,000 1000000 (t)thn
gun kaiqnedeh ex:='"kuik'enty'
have a stomachache (One hundred thousand can often also be
baiq nadeh buik'n;ty' called one lakh.)
aspirin
eqsprin ak'cpr=' SHOPPING & SERVICES
bandage (for sprain) Where is the ...?
paqt pt'tI" ... behhmalh?
... .y'mH;lEE>
LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES bank
Do you understand?
bandaiq .,'tuik'
nlehdhl? n;"l'ol;">
bookshop
I understand.
nlehbadeh n;"l'p:ty'> saouqsain c;aup'zui='
I dont understand. chemist/pharmacy
nmlehbab n;"ml'p:.U"> szain ez"zui='
Please repeat that. market
pyanpywbaon pn'ep;p:au"> z eZ"
museum
I cant speak Burmese. pydaiq ptuik'
bmazg lo mpywdaqb post office
sadaiq c;tuik'
bm; ck;" mep;tt'.U">
shop
I speak English. sain zui='
ngleiqzg lo pywdaqteh
aglip'ck;" ep;tt'ty'>
LANGUAGE
Id like to make a call.

Can you speak English? ponseqcindeh fu"zk'xY='ty'>
kmy (m)/shin (f) ngleiqzg lo pywdaqthl? Can I send a fax?
x='bY;"rH=' aglp i c
' k;" ep;tt'ol;"> fax pl ydhl? fk'c'puilui rol;">
What do you call this in Burmese?
I want to change ...
da bmalo behlo kawdhlh?
... lhjinbadeh
d: bm;lui .y'luiexolEE>
... lExY='p:ty'>
NUMBERS dollars
1 1 tiq/t dawla edl;
2 2 hniq/hn
pounds
paun ep:='
3 3 thun
foreign currency
4 4 l nainngangy ngwe Nui='=x;"e=
5 5 ng money
6 6 cauq paiqsan puik'z
7 7 khniq/khn travellers cheques
8 8 shiq kyceqleqhmaq xrI"xYk'lk'mHt'
384 L A N G UA G E Ti m e & D a t e s www.lonelyplanet.com
How many kyat to a dollar? 10.15pm

tdawla behhncaqlh? ny sehnayi shng zy'n;rIzy'=:"
tc'edl; .y'NHc'kYp'lE> mniq minc'
Please give me smaller change.
hour
kywe lhpba
nayi n;rI
aek lEep"p: minute
mniq minc'
Where can I buy ...? morning (6am to noon)
... behhma wehymlh? mneq mnk'
... .y'mH;vy'rmlEE> midday (noon to 3pm)
Do you have ... ? nleh enl'
... shl afternoon/evening (3pm to 7pm)
nyne en
... rHil;"> night (7pm to 6am)
How much is ...? ny
... behlauqlh? today
... .y'el;k'lE> din dIen
matches tomorrow
mneqpyan mnk'fn'
mjiq mI"xc'
day after tomorrow
shampoo
dhbeqka o.k'x:
ganshawye ex:='"elHY;'r' next week
soap nauq paq en;k' apt'
saqpya zp'p; yesterday
toothbrush mng menk
dhbuqtan o;"pt't
toothpaste Sunday
thwtaiqs o;"tuik'ez" tnngnwen tngeNen
toilet paper Monday
eindhathonseqku aim'o;ou"ck tnnlan tnl;en
Tuesday
Do you have a cheaper one? ingan ag :en
dateq z popwda shdhl? Wednesday
d:qk' eZ"piuep:t; rHiol;"> bouqdhn budhU"en
Thursday
LANGUAGE
OK (literally, good)
cadhbdn k;opet"en
kunbabi ek;='"p:pI>
Friday
expensive thauqcan eo;k;en
zcdeh eZ"kI"ty' Saturday
cheap snen cenen
zpwdeh eZ"ep:ty'
TRANSPORT
TIME & DATES Where is the ...?
What time is it? ... behhmalh?
behcein shbilh? .y'axYin'rHipIlE> ... .y'mH;lEE>
At what time? airport
behceinhmalh? .y'axYin'mH;lEE> lezeiq elzip'
7am railway carriage
mneq khnnayi mnk' xuNHc'n;rI mytdwh mI"rq;"tE
1pm train station
nleh tnayi enl' tc'n;rI budayoun .Ut;ru
4.30pm bus station
nyne lnayigwh en el"n;rIxE baqskgeiq .t'ck;"git'
www.lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E T r a n s p o r t 385
riverboat jetty Where should I get off?

thnbwzeiq oe.;zip' behhma snymlh?
.y'mH;z='"rmlEE>
When will the ... leave? Can I get there by ...?
... behcein tweqmlh? ... nh thwl yml?
... .y'axYin'qk'mlEE> ... nE o;"luirml;">
bus Please go slowly.
baqsk .t'ck;" pypy thwba
express train f'"f'"o;"p:>
myanyt amn'rq;"
local train Please wait for me.
lawkehyt el;'ky'rq;" cnaw (m)/cm (f) go sanneba
plane kYn'et;'kYn'mkuiec;='enp:>
leyinbyan ely;'pY Stop here.
riverboat dihma yaqpa
thnbw oe.; dImH; rp'p:>
train What time does the boat leave?
myt mI"rq;" thnbw behcein tweqmlh?
oe.; .y'axYin'qk'mlEE>
Id like ...
cnaw (m)/cm (f) ... lojinbadeh Can I get on board now?
k teql ydhl?
kYn'et;'kYn'm ... luixY='p:ty'>
axu tk'luirol;">
one ticket bicycle
leqhmaqdzaun lk'mHt'tc'ec;=' seqben ck'.I"
two tickets 4WD/jeep
leqhmaq hnsaun lk'mHt'NHc'ec;=' jiqk gYc'k;"
motorcycle
Where does this bus go? mota sainkeh em;'et;'zui='ky'
di baqsk behgo thwdhlh? taxi
dI.t'ck;" .y'kuio;"olEE> hngk a=H:"k;"
LANGUAGE
Also available from Lonely Planet:

Burmese Phrasebook
386
Glossary
See p81 for some useful words and phrases cheroots Myanmar cigars; ranging from slim to massive,
dealing with food and dining. See the Lan- but very mild as they contain only a small amount of
guage chapter (p379) for other useful words tobacco mixed with other leaves, roots and herbs
and phrases. Chindits the behind enemy lines Allied forces who
harried the Japanese during WWII
ABBREVIATIONS chinlon extremely popular Myanmar sport in which a
AM Air Mandalay circle of up to six players attempts to keep a rattan ball
BCP Burmese Communist Party in the air with any part of the body except the arms and
FEC Foreign Exchange Certificate hands
IWT Inland Water Transport chinthe half-lion, half-dragon guardian deity
KIA Kachin Independence Army
KNLA Karen National Liberation Army dah long-bladed knife, part of the traditional dress of
KNU Karen National Union the Shan and several hill tribes
MA Myanma Airways deva Pali-Sanskrit word for celestial beings
MAI Myanmar Airways International dhamma Pali word for the Buddhist teachings; called
MFSL Myanma Five Star Line dharma in Sanskrit
MHT Ministry of Hotels & Tourism dobat rural musical instrument; a small, two-faced
MNLF Mon National Liberation Front drum worn around the neck
MTT Myanmar Travels & Tours
NLD National League for Democracy eingyi traditional long-sleeved shirt worn by Myanmar men
NMSP New Mon State Party
Slorc State Law & Order Restoration Council flat covered pontoon used to carry cargo on the river;
SPDC State Peace & Development Council often up to 30m long
SSA Shan State Army furlong obsolete British unit of distance still used in
UWSA United Wa State Army Myanmar; one-eighth of a mile
YA Yangon Airways
gaiq yard (measurement)
WORDS gaung baung formal, turbanlike hat made of silk over
acheiq longyi longyi woven with intricate patterns and a wicker framework, for men
worn on ceremonial occasions gu cave temple
a-le opium weights gyo-daing planetary post, a small shrine near the
a-nyeint pwe traditional variety of pwe base of a zedi containing a Buddha image to which
worshippers make offerings according to the day of the
bama hsan-jin Burmeseness; also myanma hsan-jin week they were born; there are usually eight posts, one
Bamar Burman ethnic group for each day of the Myanmar week (Wednesday is divided
bedin-saya astrologer into two days)
betel the nut of the areca palm, which is chewed as a
mild intoxicant throughout Asia haw Shan word for palace, a reference to the large
Bodhi Tree the sacred banyan tree under which the mansions used by the hereditary Shan sao pha
Buddha gained enlightenment; also bo tree hgnet swallow-tailed boat
Brahman pertaining to Brahma or to early Hindu hintha mythical, swanlike bird; hamsa in Pali-Sanskrit
religion (not to be confused with brahmin, a Hindu hka stream or river in Kachin State
caste) hneh a wind instrument like an oboe; part of the
Buddha footprints large, flat, stylised sculptures that Myanmar orchestra
represent the Buddhas feet, distinguished by 108 identify- hpongyi Buddhist monk
GLOSSARY
ing marks; footprint shrines mark places where the Buddha hpongyi-byan cremation ceremony for an important
himself is reputed to have walked monk
hpongyikyaung monastery; see also kyaung
cantonment the part of a colonial town occupied by hsaing traditional musical ensemble
the military, a carry-over from the British days hsaing waing circle of drums used in a Myanmar orchestra
chaung (gyaung) stream or canal; often only seasonal hsinbyudaw royal white elephant
G L O S S A R Y 387
hsingaung head elephant man, above an u-zi mudra hand position; used to describe the various hand
htan (tan) sugar palm positions used by Buddha images, eg abhaya mudra (the
hti umbrellalike decorated pinnacle of a stupa gesture of fearlessness)
htwa half a taung Myanma let-hwei Myanmar kickboxing
myit river
in lake; eg Inle means little lake myo town; hence Maymyo (after Colonel May), Allanmyo
(Major Allen) or even Bernardmyo
Jataka stories of the Buddhas past lives, a common myothit new town, usually a planned new suburb
theme for temple paintings and reliefs built since the 1960s
kalaga embroidered tapestries naga multiheaded dragon-serpent from mythology,

kamma Pali word for the law of cause and effect; called often seen sheltering or protecting the Buddha
karma in Sanskrit
nat spirit being with the power to either protect or
harm humans
kammahtan meditation; a kammahtan kyaung is a
nat-gadaw spirit medium (literally spirit bride),
meditation monastery
embraces a wide variety of nat
kammawa lacquered scriptures nat pwe dance performance designed to entice a nat to
kan (gan) beach; can also mean a tank or reservoir possess a nat-gadaw
karaweik (Pali: karavika) a mythical bird with a ngwe silver
beautiful song; also the royal barge on Inle Lake nibbana nirvana or enlightenment, the cessation of
keinnayi (Pali: kinnari) a mythical creature that is suffering, the end of rebirth; the ultimate goal of Buddhist
human from the waist up, bird from the waist down; the practice
female is called keinnaya (Pali: kinnara)
kon (gon) hill o-zi a long-bodied, goblet-shaped, one-faced drum
kunya betel-nut chew used for accompanying folk music in the country
kutho merit, what you acquire through doing good; from
the Pali kusala pagoda generic English term for zedi or stupas as well
kyaik Mon word for paya as temples; see also paya
kyauk rock pahso longyi for men
kyaung (gyaung) Myanmar Buddhist monastery; pahto Burmese word for temple, shrine or other
pronounced chown religious structure with a hollow interior
kye waing circle of gongs used in a Myanmar orchestra Pali language in which original Buddhist texts were
kyi (gyi) big; eg Taunggyi means big mountain recorded; the Latin of Theravada Buddhism
kyun (gyun) island pa-lwe bamboo flute
paq-ma Myanmar bass drum
ln road or street parabaik folding Buddhist palm-leaf manuscripts
lei-myet-hna four-sided Buddha sculpture parinibbana literally, final nibbana; the Buddhas
lin gwin cymbals in a Myanmar orchestra passing away
Lokanat Avalokitesvara, a Mahayana Bodhisattva pattala bamboo xylophone used in the Myanmar
orchestra
(Buddha-to-be) and guardian spirit of the world
paya a generic Burmese term meaning holy one; applied
longyi the Myanmar unisex sarong-style lower garment,
to Buddha figures, zedi and other religious monuments
sensible wear in a tropical climate; unlike men in most
pe-sa palm-leaf manuscripts
other Southeast Asian countries, few Myanmar men have pin (bin) banyan tree
taken to Western trousers pi ze traditional tattooing, believed to make the wearer
invulnerable to sword or gun
Mahayana literally, Great Vehicle; the school of Buddhism pwe generic Burmese word for festival, feast, celebration
that thrived in north Asian countries like Japan and China, or ceremony; also refers to public performances of song
and also enjoyed popularity for a time in ancient Southeast and dance in Myanmar, often all-night (and all-day) affairs
Asian countries; also called the Northern School of Buddhism pyatthat wooden, multiroofed pavilion, usually
GLOSSARY
makara mythical sea serpent turretlike on palace walls, as at Mandalay Palace

Manuthiha a half-lion/half-human mythical creature; Pyithu Hluttaw Peoples Congress or parliament, now
visible around Shwedagon Paya defunct
mara the tempter, the Buddhist equivalent of Satan
maya ngeh lesser wife, a mans second wife ro-ro roll on, roll off, a ferry that carries vehicles; see
mi-gyaung crocodile lute also zed craft
388 G L O S S A R Y
Sanskrit ancient Indian language and source of many the Sutta (discourses of the Buddha) and Abhidhamma
words in the Burmese vocabulary, particularly those having (Buddhist philosophy)
to do with religion, art and government twin (dwin) well, hole or mine
sao pha sky lord, the hereditary chieftains of the Shan twin-zar (literally, well-eater) owners and workers of
people small oil wells in the Barong Islands, near Sittwe
saung gauq 13-stringed harp
sawbwa Burmese corruption of the Shan word sao u-min (ohn-min) cave, usually artificial and part of a temple
pha or sky lord, the hereditary chieftains of the Shan u-zi elephant handler or mahout
people
saya a teacher or shaman vihara Pali-Sanskrit word for sanctuary or chapel for
sayadaw master teacher, usually the chief abbot of a Buddha images
Buddhist monastery viss Myanmar unit of weight, equal to 1.6kg
shinpyu ceremonies conducted when young boys from votive tablet inscribed offering tablet, usually with
seven to 20 years old enter a monastery for a short period images of the Buddha
of time, required of every young Buddhist male; girls have
their ears pierced in a similar ceremony wa mouth or river or lake; Inwa means mouth of the lake
shwe golden wa leq-hkouq bamboo clapper, part of the Myanmar
sikhara Indian-style, corncoblike temple finial, found orchestra
on many temples in the Bagan area
sima see thein yagwin small cymbals
soon alms food offered to monks Yama pwe Myanmar classical dancing based on Indian
stupa see zedi epic the Ramayana
ye water, liquid
tmn zain (htamin zain) rice shop yediya the superstitious belief that fate can be averted
Tatmadaw Myanmars armed forces by carrying out certain, sometimes contradictory, activities
taung, daung mountain, eg Taunggyi means big yodaya zat Ayuthaya theatre, the style of theatre
mountain; it can also mean a half-yard (measurement) brought into Myanmar with Thai captives after the fall of
taw (daw) a common suffix, meaning sacred, holy or Ayuthaya in 1767
royal; it can also mean forest or plantation yoma mountain range
tazaung shrine building, usually found around zedi youq-the pwe Myanmar marionette theatre
thabeiq monks food bowl; also a traditional element ywa village; a common suffix in place names such as
of stupa architecture Monywa
thanakha yellow sandalwoodlike paste, worn by many
Myanmar women on their faces as a combination of skin zat pwe Myanmar classical dance-drama based on
conditioner, sunblock and make-up Jataka stories
The Thirty the 30 comrades of Bogyoke Aung San zawgyi an alchemist who has successfully achieved
who joined the Japanese during WWII and eventually led immortality through the ingestion of special compounds
Burma (Myanmar) to independence made from base metals
thein ordination hall; called sima in Pali zayat an open-sided shelter or resthouse associated
Theravada literally, the Word of the Elders; the school with a zedi
of Buddhism that has thrived in Sri Lanka and Southeast zed craft large vehicle ferry
Asian countries such as Myanmar and Thailand; also called zedi stupa, a traditional Buddhist religious monument
Southern Buddhism and Hinayana consisting of a solid hemispherical or gently tapering cylin-
thilashin nun drical cone, and topped with a variety of metal and jewel
thoun bein motorised three-wheeled passenger vehicles finials; zedi are often said to contain Buddha relics
Tripitaka the three baskets; the classic Buddhist zei (zay or z) market
scriptures consisting of the Vinaya (monastic discipline), zeigyo central market
GLOSSARY
395
Index
A Bagan Myothit 275-7, 307-8, 276 Bogyoke Aung San Museum 101
ABBREVIATIONS
Abeyadana Pahto 306 books 293 books, see also literature
ACT Australian
accommodation 330-2 Capital Central Plain 302-4, 5, 268-9 Bagan 293
Territory
avoiding government hotels 24 history 293-6 Buddhism 59
NSW New South Wales
activities 332-4, see also individual Myinkaba 275, 304-7, 5 environmental issues 72
NT Northern Territory
activities New Bagan 275-7, 307-8, 276 food 74, 75
Qld Queensland
itineraries 33, 33 North Plain 300-2 health 371
SA South Australia
air travel Nyaung U 269-73, 309-10, 270 history 28, 35, 37, 39, 40, 48, 286,
Tas Tasmania
airlines 354-5, 358 Old Bagan 273-5, 297-300, 274 293, 323
INDEX
Vic Victoria
to/from Myanmar 354-7 South Plain 308-9 Mrauk U 323
WA Western Australia
within Myanmar 358-60 Bagan Myothit 275-7, 307-8, 276 politics 42, 45
Akauk Taung 287 Bagaya Kyaung 250, 251 travel literature 28, 29
Alaungpaya, King 37-8, 85, 128, 140, Bago 140-6, 141, 8, 140-1 border crossings
247, 260, 283 Bamar language, see language China 222, 357
alcoholic drinks 76-7, see also toddy Bamar people 52 Laos 202
Amarapura 248-51, 248, 7 arrival in Myanmar 36 Thailand 169, 203, 357
Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 bathrooms 350 Botataung Paya 97-9
Ananada Pahto 300-1, 7 Bawgyo Paya 210-11 boulder stupa, see Kyaiktiyo
Ananada Pahto paya pwe 301 Bayinnaung, King 37, 129, 142-3, British in Myanmar, the 38-40
Anauk (West) Petleik Paya 307 166, 234 Buddhas Birthday 340
Anawrahta, King 36-7, 60, 153, 287, beaches Buddhism 57-61, 66, see also
294, 298, 299, 303, 305, 309, 310 Anauntphettokan 130 meditation
Anawrahtas Palace 299 Chaungtha Beach 135-8, 136 books 59
Andaw Paya 325 Kanthaya 318 Internet resources 59
animals 69-71, 225, see also individual Letkhokkon Beach 129-30 Buddhistic Museum 320
species Maungmagan 163, 10 Buledi 302
Anisakan Falls 207-8 Ngapali Beach 314-17, 315 Bupaya 299-300
Archeology Museum, Old Bagan 273 Ngwe Saung 138-9 Burma Road 215, 227
architecture 65-6 Paker Beach 167 BurmaSiam Railway 159
Bagan 293, 294 Pirate Beach 315 Burmese calendar 351
art galleries, see museums & galleries Setse 160 Burmese empires 36-9
arts 62-7, see also handicrafts and bears 70, 102, 225 Burmese language, see language
individual arts beer 76 bus travel 363-4
Asean 34, 47 Bhamo 220-1 bushwalking, see hiking
Asekhan Fort 254 Bhamo Myo Haung 220 business hours 334, see also inside
Ashe (East) Petleik Paya 307 bicycle travel, see cycling front cover
ATMs 344 bird-watching 332
Atumashi Kyaung 232 Inle Lake area 191 C
Aung San 40-1, 101 Mt Victoria area 329 calendar, Burmese 351
Aung San Suu Kyi 17, 18-19, 34, 40, Myitkyina area 218 canoeing 225, see also rafting
43-5, 47, 56, 61, 103, 161, 234, 305 Putao area 225 Cape Bayinnaung 166
Aungban 178 birds 70, see also bird-watching car travel 364-5
Ava, see Inwa black market 345, see also money restricted roads 364, 359
Ava Bridge 252 boat travel 361-3, 32, 12 caves
Azin Dam 158 itineraries 32, 32 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60
boat trips 135-6, 165-6, 10 Kawgun Cave 161
B Bagan area 268, 310 Maha Pasana Guha 99-100
Bagan 266-77, 293-310, 267, 270, Inle Lake 191 Padah-Lin Caves 179
274, 276, 5, 6, 268-9 Bogyoke Aung San 40-1, 101 Pindaya Caves 179, 10
1975 earthquake 295-6 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121 Saddar Cave 161
396 Index (C-G)
caves continued Dawei 162-4 Dukkanthein paya pwe 327

Shwe Ba Taung 259 De Brito, Philip 92, 128, 143 Festival of Lights 249
Shwe Oo Min Cave 175 Death Railway, The 159 Independence Day 340
Ta-Eh Gu 191 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 371 Inle Lake Thadingyut 183
Tilawkaguru 253 delta region 127-39, 127, 12 Inwa nat pwe 251
U Naung Gu 208 departure tax 355 Irinaku Festival 250
Yathaypyan Cave 161 Dhammayangyi Pahto 303, 5, 268-9 Kachin State Day 218
censorship 56 Dhammayazika Paya 308 Mahamuni paya pwe 237
central Myanmar 264-310, 265 Dhammazedi, King 37, 91-2, 96, Mandalay Thadingyut 237
Chaukhtatgyi Paya 99 143 Mawdin Point 135
Chaungtha Beach 135-8, 136 di Conti, Nicolo 37 Mingun Nat Festival 256
children, travel with 334, 377 diarrhoea 374-5 Mt Popa Nadaw nat pwe 278
Chin National Front 313 Diphuk-Ha 225 Mt Popa Nayon nat pwe 278
Chin people 52-3, 313 disabled travellers 338-9 Murugu Festival 106
INDEX
Chin State 328-9 diving 167, 332-3, 375, 172-3 nat pwe 60-1
Chinese temples Dragon Lake 282 Paleik Waso festival 252
Chinese temple, Myitkyina 217 drinks 75-7, see also toddy Phaung Daw Oo 183
Chinese temple, Pyin U Lwin 204 beer stations 79 Pindaya paya pwe 179
Htyan Haw 155 teashops 79-80 sea-gypsy festival 167
Kheng Hock Keong 100 toddy 77, 236-7 Shwedagon Festival 340
Quan Yin San Temple 214-15 driving, see car travel Shwemawdaw Paya festival 144
chinlon 68 Dukkanthein Paya 325-6 Shwenattaung Tabaung paya
churches & cathedrals Dukkanthein paya pwe 327 pwe 287
Christ the King Church 175 Start of the Buddhist Rains
First Baptist Church 155 E Retreat 341
Immaculate Heart Cathedral 198 economic sanctions on Myanmar 22, Tagu nat pwe 278
Judson Baptist Church 235 34, 46-7 Taungbyone nat pwe 61
Judson Church 155 Aung San Suu Kyi 18-19 Taunggyi Tazaungmon 195
Karen Baptist Church 163-4 government propoganda 20 Thadingyut 183, 237, 341
climate 27, 335 Internet resources 21, 22 Thihoshin 280
climbing 225 economy 22, 34 Thingyan 106, 164, 340, 9
consulates 339 education 62 Vesakha 133
costs 23, 27-9, 29, 339, see also money electricity 330 Wagaung nat pwe 278
bus travel 364 elephants 70, 101, 102, 135, 220, Water Festival 106, 164, 340, 9
train travel 367 290-1, 140-1 Yadanagu Festival 250
courses 106, 335-6 elephant camps 135, 220, 290-1 First Baptist Church 155
martial arts 106 email access 342-3 fishing 136
meditation 106, 335-6 embassies 339 flora 71-2
crafts, see handicrafts emergency services 382, see also food 74-5, 342
credit cards 344-5 inside front cover books 74, 75
cruises, see boat travel, boat trips endangered species 70-1 customs 80
Cultural Museum Mandalay 231-2 environmental issues 72-3 food vocabulary 81-3
culture 48-68, 74-5 books 72 restaurants 78-9
currency, see inside front cover endangered species 70-1 street snacks 77-8
customs regulations 336 exchange rates, see inside front teashops 79-80
cycling 200, 332, 360-1 cover vegetarian travellers 80
forts
D F Asekhan Fort 254
dance 62-3, 9 fauna, see wildilfe Mandalay Fort 233-4
dangers 336-8 ferries, see boat travel Singyone Fort 254
insurgents 337 festivals 28, 340-2, 9 Thabyedan Fort 254
Ananada Pahto paya pwe 301
000 Map pages Bawgyo paya pwe 211 G
000 Location of colour photographs Buddhas Birthday 340 Gaungse Kyun 156-8
Dawei Thingyan 164 Gawdawpalin Pahto 297
Index (G-K) 397
gay travellers 342 Hindu temples health 371

gems 103-4, 194, 218, 242, 348 Nathlaung Kyaung 297-8 national parks 72
geography 69, 51 Sri Devi 101 Intha people 181, 182-3
Gokteik Viaduct 208-9 Sri Kali 101 Inwa 251-2
Golden Rock 149-52, 151, 8, 172-3 Sri Saraswati Gurkha 217 Inya Lake 103
golf 204, 235, 262, 315, 333 Sri Sri Siva Krishna 101 Inye Lake 135
Gubyaukgyi 305 history 35-47 islands
Gubyauknge 302 1990 election 44-5 Bilu Kyun 156
Bagan 293-6 Gaungse Kyun 156-8
H Bago 140 Hienze 163
Halingyi 262 books 35, 37, 39, 40, 48, 286 Kyet Mauk Island 167
handicrafts 28, 347-9, see also gems, British in Myanmar, the 38-40 Lampi Kyun 167
shopping Burmese empires 36-9 Launglon 164
clothes & textiles 121, 122, 190, early kingdoms 35-6 Lon Khuet Island 167
INDEX
242, 347 economic sanctions on Myanmar Maungmagan Islands 163
lacquerware & pottery 120, 121, 18-19, 20, 21, 22, 34, 46-7 Mergui Archipelago 165-6, 167,
179, 189, 190, 207, 260, 275, independence & early woes 41-2 172-3
277, 348, 268-9 Inwa 251 Mwedaw Kyun 167
paintings 120, 207 Mandalay 227 Myeik Archipelago 165-6, 167,
parasols 134, 179, 348, 11, 140-1 Mrauk U 323 172-3
souvenirs 28, 121, 122, 207, 224, prodemocracy protests 43, 59 Ogre Island 156
242, 253, 275, 236-7 rise of nationalism 39-41 Paker Beach 167
tapestries 120, 189, 207, 242, 349 the road to socialism 42-3 Pataw Padet Island 165
woodcarving & puppets 144, 207, Yangon 85 Shampoo Island 156
242, 275, 349 hitching 365 Whitesand Island 135-6
Hanlin 262 Hkakabo Razi 225 itineraries 16, 30-3
Hanthawady kingdom 37, 140, 142 Hmawza 286 activities 33, 33
Haw Sao Pha, Hsipaw 209-10 holidays 342, see also festivals boat travel 32, 32
Haw Sao Pha, Kengtung 198 Hpa-an 161-2, 12 Yangon 88
health 369-78 Hpakan 218
books 371 Hpayapon 129 J
deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 371 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60 Jade Taw 314
dengue 372 Hsipaw 209-13, 210 Japanese war cemetery 142
diarrhoea 374-5 Htilominlo Pahto 301-2 jewellery, see gems
heatstroke 375-6 Htongo 287 Ji-Chanzi 178
hepatitis 372 Hukuang Valley Tiger Reserve 72, Judson, Adoniram 160
HIV 372 225 Judson Church 155
insect bites & stings 376 human rights abuses 46-7 Jumping Cat Monastery 189
Internet resources 371
jet lag 371-2 I K
malaria 373-4 immunisations 370 Kaba Aye Paya 99
motion sickness 371-2 Indawgyi Lake 218 Kachin people 53, 217, 220
rabies 374 Indein 190, 172-3 Kachin State Cultural Museum 217
vaccinations 370 Independence Day 340 Kakku 192-3
water 375 Inle Lake 176, 181-95, 182, 10, 11 Kalaw 173-8, 174
women travellers 377 Inle Lake Thadingyut 183 Kalaymyo 262-3
Heho 180 Inleh Bo Teh 189 Kanbawzathadi Museum 142-3
Hienze Island 163 insurance 342 Kanbawzathadi Palace 142-3
hiking 333-4 health 369-70 Kandawgyi, Mudon 158
Hsipaw area 211 insurgents 337 Kandawgyi, Yangon 102-3, 140-1
Inle Lake area 191, 182 Internet access 342-3 Kandawgyi Gardens 204
Kalaw area 176, 179, 177 Internet resources 29 Kanthaya 318
Kyaiktiyo area 151, 151 Buddhism 59 Karen Baptist Church 163
northeastern Myanmar 208 economic sanctions on Karen National Liberation Army
Putao area 224-5 Myanmar 21, 22 (KNLA) 160, 161
398 Index (K-M)
Karen National Union (KNU) 160 Kandawgyi, Yangon 102-3, 140-1 food 238-45
Karen people, see Kayin people Lake Meiktila 287 Internet access 227-8
Katha 222-4 Lay Kyaung Kandawgyi 291 Mandalay Hill 229-31, 236-7
Kaung Daing 189 Naung Tung 196 money 229
Kaung Daing hot springs 189 Nga Ka Pwe Taung 282 postal services 229
Kaungdire, see Kaung Daing Shan Lake, Pyinmana 289 shopping 241-5
Kaunghmudaw Paya 254 Taungthaman Lake 249 tourist information 229
Kawgun 161 Lampi Kyun 167 travel to/from 242-5
Kawthoung 166-9 language 379-85 travel within 245
Kayah people 53-4 architecture terms 295 walking tour 236, 235
Kayah State 203 emergencies 382 Mandalay Fort 233-4
kayaking 225, see also rafting food vocabulary 81-3 Mandalay Hill 229-31, 236-7
Kayin people 54, 160-1, 291 glossary 386-8 Mandalay Palace 233-4, 236-7
Kayin State 160-2 Lashio 213-17, 214 Mandalay Thadingyut 237
Kekku 192-3 Lawkahteikpan Pahto 303 Mandalay Zoological Garden 235
Kengtung 196-200, 197, 172-3 Lawkananada Paya 307 Manuha, King 36-7, 275, 294, 305, 306
Kentung hot-springs 200 Launglon 164 Manuha Paya 305-6
Khan, Kublai 37, 293, 308 legal matters 343 maps 343-4
Kheng Hock Keong 100 Leimyethna Pahto 308 marionette theatre 63
kickboxing 67-8, 106 lesbian travellers 342 markets 140-1, 268-9
Kinpun 150, 151, 152 Letkhokkon Beach 129-30 Bhamo 220
Kothaung Temple 326 Li-lu 213 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121
Kunyangon 129 Linthar 314 Heho 180
Kuthodaw Paya 232 literature 28, 67, see also books Hsipaw 211
Kyaik Pun Paya 143, 8 Loi-mwe 200 Kengtung 196, 198
Kyaikkami 160 Lon Khuet Island 167 Lashio 214
Kyaikmaraw 158-9 Lontha 314 Mandalay 236, 242
Kyaikmaraw Paya 158-9 Lonton 218 Mawlamyine 155
Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149-52, 151, Mingala Market, Nyaungshwe 185
8, 172-3 M Pathein 133
Kyaingtong 196-200, 197, 172-3 Ma Li Won rock pools 167 Pyin U Lwin 207
Kyanzittha Umin 310 magazines 330 Sibinthaya Zei 165
Kyauk Taung 190 Magwe 281-3, 282 Taunggyi 193-4
Kyaukka 260 Maha Kalyani Sima 143 Thandwe 317
Kyaukme 209 Maha Kalyani Thein 143 water-buffalo market, Kengtung 198
Kyauktan 127-8 Maha Ledi Kyaung 257, 236-7 Yangon 103-4, 121
Kyauktawgyi Paya, Anarapura 249-50 Maha Pasana Guha 99-100 Ywama 189-90
Kyauktawgyi Paya, Mandalay 233 Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya 100 Martaban, see Mottama
Kyet Mauk Island 167 Mahabandoola Garden 101 martial arts 67-8, 106
Mahabodhi Paya 299 Martyrs Mausoleum 101
L Mahagiri shrine 278 massage 104
Labutta 129 Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay 234, 328 Maungmagan 163, 10
lacquerware, see handicrafts Mahamuni Paya, Mawlamyine 155 Maungmagan Islands 163
lakes Mahamuni Paya, Mrauk U 328 Mausoleum of the Khn Princes 198
Boutalake Lake 179 Mahazedi Paya 143-4 Maw Daw Myin Tha Paya 260
Dragon Lake 282 Maing Thauk 190 Mawdin Point 135
Indawgyi Lake 218 Ma-Kyon-Galet 167 Mawdinsoun 135
Inle Lake 176, 181-225, 182, 10, 11 malaria 373-4 Mawlamyaing, see Mawlamyine
Inya Lake 103 Mandalay 226-45, 228-9, 230-1, Mawlamyine 153-8, 154, 172-3
Inye Lake 135 235, 12, 236-7 Maymyo, see Pyin U Lwin
Kandawgyi, Mudon 158 accommodation 237-45 measurements 330, see also inside
activities 235 front cover
000 Map pages attractions 229-35 medical services 372, see also health
000 Location of colour photographs drinking 240-5 meditation 106, 158, 335-6
entertainment 240-5 visas 335
Index (M-N) 399
Meiktila 287-9, 288 Soon Lu Kyaung 281 Buddhistic Museum 320

Mergui 164-6 Taungpulu Meditation Monastery Cultural Museum Mandalay 231-2
Mergui Archipelago 165-6, 167, 172-3 178 Drug Eradication Museum 201
Minbin, King 323, 324, 326 Thamanyat Kuang 161 Hanlin museum 262
Minbu 282 Thaung Tho Kyaung 190 Kachin State Cultural Museum
Mindon Min, King 39, 96, 227, 232, Theinwa Kyaung 163-9 217
233, 234, 256 U Daung Monastery & meditation Kanbawzathadi Museum 142-3
Mingalazedi 304-5, 5 centre 190 Kyaikmaraw Paya Museum 159
Mingun 254-6, 255, 6, 236-7 Wat Jong Kham 198 Mahamuni Paya museum 328
Mingun Paya 255, 6 Water Lake Monastery 161 Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi
Mo-Baw waterfall 151 Yangon Kyaung 184 museum 320
Mon Cultural Museum 153 money 27-9, 344-6, see also costs Mandalay Palace Culture Museum
Mon National Liberation Front (MNLF) ATMs 344 233
148 credit cards 344-5 Mon Cultural Museum 153-6
Mon people 54, 148-9 exchange rates, see inside front cover Museum of Shan Chiefs 183
arrival in Myanmar 35-6 moneychangers 345 Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems
Mon State 148-60 travellers cheques 344-5 Market 103-4
monasteries, see also paya Mong Hpayak 200 Myasigon Paya museum 290
Ananda Ok Kyaung 301 Mong La 201-2 Na-Gar Glass Factory 104
Atumashi Kyaung 232 Monywa 256-9, 257, 236-7 National Museum 101
Bagaya Kyaung 250, 251 Moseah Yeshua Synagogue 100 Palace Museum, Mrauk U 324
Bandoola Kyaung 326 mosques Rakhaing State Cultural Museuem
Jumping Cat Monastery 189 Jama Mosque 320 320
Kan Gyi Kyaung 183 Ja-me Mosque 217 Shan State Cultural Museum 194
Kha Khat Wain Kyaung 144 Kaladan Mosque 155 Thandwe art gallery 317
Koun Soun Taungbo 191 Moghul Shiah Mosque 155 Thayekhitta museum 286
Kyinigan Kyaung 142 Soorti Sunni Jamai Mosque 155 music 63-5
Ma Soe Yein Nu Kyaung 235 Suni Mosque 317 Mwedaw Kyun 167
Maha Aungmye Bonzan 251-2 motorcycle travel 364-5 Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems
Maha Ganayon Kyaung 249 Mottama 153 Market 103-4
Maha Ledi Kyaung 257, 236-7 Moulmein, see Mawlamyine Myasigon Paya 290
Maha Myat Muni 198 Mt Kyaikto 149, 150 Myazedi 305
Maing Thauk forest monastery 190 Mt Popa 277-9, 11 Myeik 164-6
Mimalaung Kuang 297 Mt Zwegabin 161 Myeik Archipelago 165-6, 167, 172
Maka Kuthala Kyaungdawgyi 320 mountain climbing 225 Myingyan 281
Mt Kyaikto 149 mountains Myit-son 217-18
Nga Hpe Chaung 189 Diphuk-Ha 225 Myinkaba 275, 304-7, 5
Nigyon Taungyon Kyaung 184 Hkakobo Razi 225 Myitkyina 217-20
Ok Kyaung 251-2 Mt Kyaikto 149, 150 Myohaung 322-8, 324, 5, 6, 268-9
Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 158 Mt Popa 277-9, 11
Pakhangyi 280 Mt Victora 329 N
Pakhanngeh Kyaung 280 Mt Zwegabin 161 Naga people 54-5
Payagyi 163 Namni-Lka 225 Na-Gar Glass Factory 104
Sa-ma-taung Paya Kyaung 151 Phongun Razi 225 Nagayon 306-7
Sasanayaunggyi Kyaung 280 Ya-The Mountain 151 Namhkam Valley 221-2
Seindon Mibaya Kyaung 155 Moustache Brothers Troupe 21, 240-1, Namhsan 213
Shwe Daung U meditation centre 236-7 Namni-Lka 225
257 Mrauk U 322-8, 324, 5, 6, 268-9 Namtu 213
Shwe Gu Kyaung 183 Mudon 158 Nan Paya, Bagan 306
Shwe In Bin Kyaung 234-5 Mu-se 221-2 Nandamannya Pahto 309
Shwe Kyaung 288 Museum of Shan Chiefs 183 Nanmyin 251
Shwe Yaunghwe Kyaung 184 museums & galleries Nanthe 185, 191
Shwenandaw Kyaung 232-3 Archeology Museum, Old Bagan 273 nat, the 59-61, 310
Snake Monastery 144 Bagaya Kyaung museum 250 nat pwe 60-1, see also festivals
Somingyi Kyaung 307 Bogyoke Aung San Museum 101 Nathlaung Kyaung 297-8
400 Index (N-P)
National Kandawgyi Gardens 204 passports 354 Inle Lake nat shrine 191
National League for Democracy (NLD) Pataw Padet Island 165 Kaba Aye Paya 99
43-5, 160 Pathein 130-5, 131, 140-1 Kandawgyi Paya 158
National Museum 101 paya, see also Chinese temples, Kaunghmudaw Paya 254
national parks 72 churches & cathedrals, Hindu Kawmudaw Paya 291
National Unity Party (NUP) 43, 44 temples, monasteries Kohtatgyi Paya 100
Ne Win, General 42-3, 46, 59, 100, Abeyadana Pahto 306 Kondawgyi Pahto 310
103, 227 Ah Lain Nga Sint Paya 100 Kothaung Temple 326
New Bagan 275-7, 307-8 Ananada Pahto 300-1, 7 Kuthodaw Paya 232
New Mon State Party (NMSP) 148 Anauk (West) Petleik Paya 307 Kyaik Pun Paya 143, 8
newspapers 56, 330 Andaw Paya 318, 325 Kyaik-khauk Paya 128
Nga Hpe Chaung 189 Andawshin Pa 217 Kyaikmaraw Paya 158-9
Nga Ka Pwe Taung 282 Antaka Yele Paya 287-8 Kyaikthanlan Paya 155
Ngapali 314 Army Pagoda 260 Kyaiktiyo (Golden Rock) 149-52,
INDEX
Ngapali Beach 314-17, 315 Ashe (East) Petleik Paya 307 151, 8, 172-3
Ngwe Daug 291 Atula Shwethalyaung 165 Kyanzittha Umin 310
Ngwe Saung 138-9 Aung Chang Tha Zedi 175 Kyauk Gu Ohnmin 310
NLD 43-5, 160 Aung Htu Kan Tha 208 Kyaukhpyugyi Paya 185
northeastern Myanmar 170-225, 171 Aung Mye Hsu Taung 260 Kyauktalon Taung 158
Nyaung U 269-73, 309-10, 270 Aung Setkya Paya 259 Kyauktawgyi Paya, Amarapura
Nyaungshwe 183-9, 184 Aung Theikdi Zedi 155 249-50
Aungmyelawka Paya 253 Kyauktawgyi Paya, Mandalay 233
O Bawbawgyi Paya 286 Kyinigan Kyaung 142
Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds 129 Bawgyo Paya 210-11 Laungbanpyauk Paya 326
Old Bagan 273-5, 297-300, 274 Bodhi Dat Taw Taik 281 Lawkahteikpan Pahto 303
organised tours, see tours Bodhi Tataung 259 Lawkananada Paya 307
Orwell, George 153, 222 Botataung Paya 97-9 Lawkatharaphu Paya 252
boulder stupa, see Kyaiktiyo Laymyetnha Paya 326
P Buledi 302 Le-htat-gyi Paya 252
Pa-Auk-Taw-Ya Monastery 158 Bupaya 299-300 Leikyunynaung Paya 132-3
Padah-Lin Caves 179 Chaukhtatgyi Paya 99 Leimyethna Pahto 308
Pagan, see Bagan Dhamma Yon 175 Leimyetna Paya 133
Pahtothamya 297 Dhammayangyi Pahto 303, 5, Lokananda Paya 320
painting 67 268-9 Maha Wizaya (Vijaya) Paya 100
Paker Beach 167 Dhammayazika Paya 308 Mahabodhi Mingala Zedi 132
Pakokku 280-1 Dukkanthein Paya 325-6 Mahabodhi Paya 299
palaces Eindawya Paya 236 Mahabodhi Shwegu 326
Alaungpayas Palace 260 Four Figures Paya 143 Mahagiri shrine 278
Amarapura Palace 250 Gaung-Say-Kyan Paya 143 Mahamuni Paya, Mandalay 234, 328
Anawrahtas Palace 299 Gawdawpalin Pahto 297 Mahamuni Paya, Mawlamyine 155
Haw Sao Pha, Hsipaw 209 Golden Rock 149-52, 151, 8, Mahamuni Paya, Mrauk U 328
Haw Sao Pha, Kengtung 198 172-3 Mahamuni Paya, Putao 224
Kanbawzathadi Palace 142-3 Great Image of Hsu Taung Pre 328 Mahamyatmuni Paya 210, 215
Mandalay Palace 233-4, 236-7 Gubyaukgyi 305 Mahazedi Paya 143-4
Mrauk U Royal Palace, 323-4 Gubyauknge 302 Mandalay Hill Buddha image 231
Nanmyin 251 Haridaung Paya 324 Mann Paya 280
Paleik 252 Hintha Gon Paya 143 Mansu Paya 215
Panglong 213 Hmwe Paya 252 Manuha Paya 305-6
Pa-O people 176, 178, 191, 192, 10 Hpo Win Daung Caves 259-60 Maw Daw Myin Tha Paya 260
parasols 134, 179, 348, 11, 140-1 Hsinbyume Paya 256 Mawdin Paya 135
Pascal Khoo Thwe 21, 26, 48 Hsinmyashin Paya 253 Me La Mu Paya 100
Hsu Taung Pye Paya 175 Mingalazedi 304-5, 5
000 Map pages Hsu Taung Pye Zedidaw 217 Mingun Paya 255, 6
000 Location of colour photographs Htilaingshin Paya 252 Molmi Paya 256
Htilominlo Pahto 301-2 Mya Tha Lun Paya 282
Index (P-Q) 401
Myasigon Paya 290 Shwemokhtaw Paya 131-2 Yele Paya, Kyaikkami 160
Myazedi 305 Shwemyetman Paya 286-7, 6 Yele Paya, Twante 128
Nagayon 306-7 Shwenattaung Paya 287 Youqson Kyaung 279
Nan Paya, Bagan 306 Shwesandaw Paya, Bagan 303, paya pwe, see festivals
Nan Paya, Salay 279-80 268-9 Payagyi 163
Nandamannya Pahto 309 Shwesandaw Paya, Pyay 283 Payagyi Paya 284
Nandaw Paya 317 Shwesandaw Paya, Taungoo 290 Payathonzu, Bagan 308-9
Nee Paya 175 Shwesandaw Paya, Twante 128-9 Payathonzu, Salay 279
New Pyi Lon Chantha Paya 215 Shwetaung Paya 326-7 Pegu, see Bago
Ngahtatgyi Paya 100 Shwethalyaung Buddha 141-2 Peoples Park 104
Nyaung Ohak 190 Shwethalyaung Daw Mu 163 Peshawar Relics Paya 231
Padamya Zedi 253 Shwezigon Paya, Bagan 294, 309-10 Phaung Daw Oo 183
Pagoda of Many Elephants 253 Shwezigon Paya, Monywa 257 Phaung Daw Oo Paya 190
Pahtodawgyi 250 Shwezigon Paya, Pathein 133 Phongun Razi 225
INDEX
Pahtothamya 297 Sittana Paya 307-8 photography 346
Payagyi Paya 284 Snake Pagoda 252 pick-up truck travel 366
Payathonzu, Bagan 308-9 Soon U Ponya Shin Paya 253 Pindaya 178-80
Payathonzu, Salay 279 statue of Lokanat 142 Pindaya Caves 179, 10
Peshawar Relics Paya 231 Sulamani Pahto 304 Pirate Beach 315
Phaung Daw Oo Paya 190 Sule Paya 97 Pitaka Taik, Bagan 299
Pondaw Paya 255 Tagaung Mingala Zeditaw 132 Pitaka Taik, Mrauk U 326
Pyathada Paya 304 Tagaung Paya 132 planning 27-9, see also itineraries
Pyi Lon Chantha 215 Taw Myat Paya 100 plants 71-2
Pyi Taw Aye Paya 166 Tayok Pye Paya 308 politics 34
Rahanta cave temple 286 Temple No 99 279 books 42, 45
Ratanabon Paya 325-6 Thabeik Hmauk 304 population 34, 50, 50-6, 52
Sakyamanaung Paya 326 Thambula Pahto 309 Bamar people 36, 52
Sa-ma-taung paya 151 Thamya Pahto 297 Chin people 52-3
Sandamani Paya 232 Thanboddhay Paya 259 Intha people 181, 182-3
Sandaw Paya 318 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298 Kachin people 53
Sandawshin Paya 156 Thein Taung Paya 175 Karen people 54, 160-1, 291
Sasana 2500-Year Paya 215 Theindawgyi Paya 165, 220 Kayah people 53-4
Sehtatgyi Paya 283 Thetkyamuni 310 Kayin people 54, 160-1, 291
Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307 Thiho-shin Phondaw-pyi 132 Mon people 35-6, 54, 148-9
Seinnyet Nyima Paya 307 Third Mile Pagoda 167 Naga people 54-5
Setkyathiha Paya 236 Tilawkaguru 253 Pa-O people 176, 178, 191, 192, 10
Settawya Paya 255 Tupayon Paya 253 Rakhaing people 36, 55, 312-13
Settayaw Paya 132 Twenty-Eight Paya 132 Rohingya people 313
Shan temple ruins, Inle Lake 189 U Khanti Paya 155 Shan people 55, 208, 211
Shin Upagot shrine 102 U Zina Paya 155 Wa people 55-6
Shinmokhti Paya 163 Umin Thounzeh 253 postal services 346
Shinpinsarkyo Paya 279 Wat Ho Kong 198 prodemocracy protests 43, 59
Shittaung 324-5 Wat In 198 Prome, see Pyay
Shwe Ba Taung 259 Wat Pha Jao Lung 198 Putao 224-5
Shwe Daza Paya 260 Wat Pha That Jom Mon 198 pwe, see festivals
Shwe Gu Ni Paya 260 Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 Pwe Kauk Falls 208
Shwe Inn Thein 190 Win Sein Taw Ya 158 Pwehla 178
Shwe-kyet-kya 250 Wunchataung Paya 283 Pyathada Paya 304
Shwe-kyet-yet 250 Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-pye Pyay 283-5, 284
Shwe Oo Min Paya 175, 179 Paya 252 Pyin U Lwin 204-7, 205, 11, 172-3
Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5, 7, 8 Yadana Man Aung Paya 183 Pyinmana 289-90
Shwegugale Paya 144 Yadana Taung 158 Pyu kingdom 35, 36
Shwegugyi 298 Yankin Paya 235
Shwekyimyint Paya 236 Yat Thaw Mu 198 Q
Shwemawdaw Paya 142, 140-1 Yau Kyaw Paya 100 Quan Yin San Temple 214-15
402 Index (R-U)
R Oh-Bo Pottery Sheds 129 Tayaw 176

rabies 374 Pathein parasol workshops 134 teashops 79-80
radio 330 Taunggyi gem market 194 telephone services 349-50, see also
rafting 225, 333 Shwe Daung 291 inside front cover
Rakhaing people 55, 312-13 Shwe In Bin Kyaung 234-5 television 330
arrival in Myanmar 36 Shwe Oo Min Cave 175 temples, see Chinese temples, Hindu
Rakhaing State 314-19, 319-28 Shwebo 260-2, 261 temples, paya
Rakhaing State Cultural Museuem 320 Shwedagon Festival 340 Tenasserim Division, see Tanintharyi
Rangoon, see Yangon Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5, 7, 8 Division
red panda 70-1, 225 Shwedaung 286-7 Thabeik Hmauk 304
religion 56-61 Shwegugyi 298 Thadingyut 183, 341
Islam 313 Shwemawdaw Paya 142, 140-1 Thamanyat Kuang 161
reptiles 70 Shwemokhtaw Paya 131-2 Thambula Pahto 309
responsible travel 17-26, 71 Shwemyetman Paya 286-7, 6 Thamya Pahto 297
cultural considerations 49 Shwenandaw Kyaung 232-3 Than Shwe, General 22, 34, 40, 47,
INDEX
tourism 21-2, 24-6 Shwenyaung 180-1 85, 320

restaurants 78-9 Shwesandaw Paya, Bagan 303, 268-9 Thanboddhay Paya 259
rhinoceros 70 Shwesandaw Paya, Pyay 283 Thanbyuzayat 159
Rohingya people 313 Shwesandaw Paya, Taungoo 290 Thandwe 317-18
Roman Catholic Mission 198 Shwesandaw Paya, Twante 128-9 Thanlyin 127-8
Royal Palace, Mrauk U 323-4 Shwetaung Paya 326-7 Tharaba Gate 299
S Shwethalyaung Buddha 141-2 Thatbyinnyu Pahto 298
Saddar Cave 161 Shwethalyaung Daw Mu 163 Thaton 152-3
safe travel, see also dangers, Shwezigon Paya, Bagan 294, 309-10 Thayekhittaya 286
emergency services Sittana Paya 307-8 Thazi 172-3
animal bites 336-7 Sittwe 319-22, 319 theatre 62-3
hitching 365 Slorc 17, 43 theft 337
insect bites 336-7 Snake Monastery 144 Theindawgyi Paya 165
insurgents 337 Snake Pagoda (Hmwe Paya) 252 Theinwa Kyaung 163
scams 338 snorkelling 135-6, 315, 332-3 Thibaw 209-13
theft 337 Somingyi Kyaung 307 Thibaw Min, King 39, 97-9, 101, 227,
Sagaing 252-4 southeastern Myanmar 147-69, 149 232, 233, 234
Sagaing State 252-4, 256-63 special events 28, 340-2, see also Thingyan 164, 340, 9
Sakyamanaung Paya 326 festivals Thirimyaing Lan 167
Salay 279-80 sports 67-8 tigers 70, 72, 102, 225
Sandamani Paya 232 Sri Ksetra 286 Tilawkaguru 253
Sankar 193 Start of the Buddhist Rains Retreat time 350, 392
Sarabha Gate 299 341 tipping 345-6
Sarlai 280 State Law & Order Restoration Council toddy 77, 236-7
sculpture 67 (Slorc) 17, 43 toilets 350
Sehtatgyi Paya 283 State Peace & Development Council tourist information 350
Seinnyet Ama Pahto 307 (SPDC) 17, 45 tours 106
Seinnyet Nyima Paya 307 stupas, see paya organised outside Myanmar 358
Setse 160 Sulamani Pahto 304 organised within Myanmar 225,
Shampoo Island 156 Sule Paya 97 268, 329, 366
Shan palaces 198, 209-10 swimming 104, 235 responsible travel 26
Shan people 55, 208, 211 train travel 366-8
Shan State Army (SSA) 214
T tramping, see hiking
Tachileik 202-3 travel insurance 342
Shinmokhti Paya 163 Ta-Eh Gu 191
Shinpinsarkyo Paya 279 travellers cheques 344-5
Shittaung 324-5 Tahan 262 trekking, see hiking
Shittaung Pillar 324-5 Tahaungdam 225 truck travel 366
shopping 346-9, see also handicrafts, Talay 200 tsunami, 2004 34, 127, 314
markets, parasols Tanintharyi Division 162-9 TV 330
Myanmar Gems Museum & Gems Taukkyan 140 Twante 128-9
Market 103-4 Taunggok 318-19
Taunggyi 193-5, 194 U
Na-Gar Glass Factory 104 U Beins Bridge 248-9, 7
Taunggyi Tazaungmon 195
Taungoo 290-2 U Nu 41-2, 42
000 Map pages Taungthaman 249 United Wa State Army 196
000 Location of colour photographs Taungthaman Lake 249 Upali Thein 301
Tavoy, see Dawei Upper Sagaing District 256-63
I n d e x ( V - Z ) 403
V wildlife 69-71, 225, see also birds, itineraries 88

vaccinations 370 individual species medical services 88
vegetarian travellers 80 women in Myanmar 61-2 money 89
video systems 330, 346 women travellers 352-3, 377 postal services 89
visas 335, 351-2, see also passports WWII 40-1, 215 shopping 120-2
meditation 335 Burma Road 215, 227 Shwedagon Paya 90-7, 94, 5,7,8
voluntary work 352 BurmaSiam Railway 159 special events 106
Death Railway, The 159 tourist offices 89
W war cemeteries 140, 142, 159 tours 106
Wa people 55-6. travel to/from 122-4
walking, see hiking Y travel within 125
Wan Pasak 202 Yadana gas pipeline 163 walking tour 105-6, 105
war cemeteries Yadana Labamuni Hsu-taung-pye Yar Thait 176
Bago 142 Paya 252 Yatetaung 150
INDEX
Taukkyan 140 Yangon 84-125, 86-7, 90-1, 94, 98-9, Ya-The Mountain 151
Thanbyuzayat 159 102-3, 105, 5, 7, 8, 140-1 Yaungwhe 183-9
Wat Jong Kham 198 accommodation 106-12 Yebok 179
water-buffalo market, Kengtung activities 104-5 Yele Paya, Kyaikkami 160
198 attractions 90-104 Ye-Ngan 179
Water Festival 340, 9 Bogyoke Aung San Market 121 Youqson Kyaung 279
weights & measures 330, see also inside drinking 118-19 Ywama 189-90
front cover emergency services 87
western Myanmar 311-29, 312 entertainment 119-20 Z
Wethali 328 festivals 106 zoos
Wetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi 302 food 112-18 Mandalay Zoological Garden 235
Whitesand Island 135-6 Internet access 87-8 Yangon Zoological Garden 101-2

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Lonely Planet Publications

Should You Go? 17 Around Pathein

Kengtung (Kyaingtong) 196 Bagan & CENTRAL PLAIN 302

Business Hours 334 Telephone 349 Hitching 365

Regional Map Contents Travelling With Children

Should You Go?

THE BOYCOTT SPLIT

building airports and runways. Some say hundreds of thousands of

Aung San Suu Kyi

Other groups against tourism suggest that the governments restrictions

[Suu Kyis] approach has been highly moral and uncompromising,

THE REGIMES LINE

because we couldnt catch all the mice. In 2004, Moustache Brothers

Lonely Planet suggests that visitors to Myanmar should try to maximise

AVOID GOVERNMENT HOTELS

SPREAD YOUR MONEY

WHERE THE MONEY GOES

Amount Type of economic input

DONT COMPROMISE LOCALS

DIY VS PACKAGE TOURS

Presently no tourist gets more criticism from proboycott and protourism

If you simply have to take a package tour of Myanmar, be sure to ask

COSTS & MONEY

DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT

Festivals & Events

Kachin State Day (Myitkyina), 10 January (p218)

Shwedagon Festival (Yangon), February/March (p340)

Buddhas Birthday, full moon, April/May (p340)

Water Festival (Thingyan) & Burmese New Year, mid-April (p341)

Start of Buddhist Rains Retreat, full moon June/July (p341)

Tazaungmon, full moon October/November (p341) Taunggyis balloon festival (p195) is a

Living Silence by Christina Fink

The Glass Palace by Amitav Ghosh

Culture Shock! Burma by Saw Myat Yin

The Piano Tuner by Daniel Mason

The History of Burma by GE Harvey

Patheins paper parasols (p134)

Myanmars best lacquerware at Myinkaba (p275)

Traditional-style lacquerware in Kyaukka (p260)

Delta-born glazed pots from Twante (p129), near Yangon

Moustache Brothers T-shirt from Mandalay (p241)

Cheap DVDs in Yangon (p122)

Jade from Mandalays local market (p242)

Water buffalo in Kengtung (p198)

If youre travelling around by public transport and are OK with rice-

crafts and souvenirs. Hire a driver, fly, or take a train or an overnight

in life along one of Asias mightiest rivers. In Bagan, take a horse-cart or

If time is short, BANGLADESH

and a few nearby

The Big-Four Fenzy

THE BIG-FOUR EXPANSION Four Weeks/Yangon to Mrauk U

to Bago (p000) to see a Buddha extravaganza by day, then continue on to AroundYag/Nthf Bo

climb and lunch, with monkeys. Then, when in Mandalay, add on a

Build more memo-

The Big-Four Expansion

ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

a home-made helicopter inspired by James Bond. Hire a longboat for a six-

a Buddha-shaped mountain (p000) and the carnivalesque Thanboddhay Paya AroundMaly/UpeSgiDstrcAoundMywa/HpWiDgCves

(p000), brimming with over 500,000 Buddhas.

around 3000 temples. A couple of days south from Bagan by boat is

kick-back spot on the Bay of Bengal.

Myanmars top to BANGLADESH

hitting the off- Shwebo