3125 14113 3 PB PDF
3125 14113 3 PB PDF
Effect of Spandex Input Tension, Spandex Linear Density and Cotton Yarn Loop Length on
Dynamic Elastic Behavior of Cotton/Spandex Knitted Fabrics
ABSTRACT
Analysis of dynamic elastic behavior is an objective evaluation of the stretch and recovery
behavior of the elastic fabrics or tight fit garments. The analysis of this dynamics will help to
reengineer new products for improving the stamina, speed and power of the sportsmen, as one
particular type of garment doesnt serve the purpose of all kinds of sports events. The study is to
analyze the effect of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop length on
dynamic work recovery of cotton / spandex single jersey knitted fabric. The effect of different
processing stages such as relaxation, heat setting, bleaching and compacting on dynamic work
recovery of cotton / spandex single jersey knitted fabric has also been analyzed in this study.
Effect of different stages of processing on DWR of the fabric has significant influence. The effect
of spandex input tension and cotton yarn loop length on DWR of the fabric have been significant
in any one direction. The effect of spandex linear density on DWR of the fabric has been
significant at both wale and course directions.
Keywords: cotton yarn loop length, dynamic work recovery, plated fabric, spandex input tension,
spandex linear density and tight fit sportswear
Dynamic Work Recovery (DWR) of the fabric is calculated by the Eq. (2).
Dynamic work recovery % = Area under the unloading curve x 100 (2)
Area under the loading curve
e 20 -50%
Tensile energy (unloading) = F de
0
The spandex input tension, spandex recovery of the fabrics, three levels of
linear density and cotton yarn loop length spandex input tension such as 2.5 - 3.0
are the major variables which control the cN/tex, 2.0 - 2.5 cN/tex and 1.5 - 2.0 cN/tex
dimensional stability of the elastic knitted were kept constant to maintain spandex loop
fabrics as mentioned in the earlier literature. lengths such as 0.85 mm, 0.97 mm and 1.1
The effect of these variables on dynamic mm respectively. Thirty-denier spandex
elastic behavior of the fabric could be was used and cotton yarn loop length was
further explored. This study could be more kept as 2.9 mm.
useful for the tight fit garment making In order to study the effect of
industry to control the cost of manufacture spandex linear density on dynamic work
without affecting the fabric properties. recovery of the fabrics, three different linear
The present study is to analyze the densities of spandex yarn such as 20 denier,
effect of spandex input tension, spandex 30 denier and 40 denier were used. Spandex
linear density and cotton yarn loop length on loop length and cotton yarn loop length were
dynamic work recovery of cotton / spandex kept as 0.97 mm and 2.9 mm respectively.
single jersey knitted fabric. The effect of In order to study the effect of cotton
different processing stages such as yarn loop length on dynamic work recovery
relaxation, heat setting, bleaching and of the fabrics, three levels of cotton yarn
compacting on dynamic work recovery of loop lengths such as 2.5 mm, 2.9 mm and
cotton / spandex single jersey knitted fabric 3.4 mm were used. Spandex input yarn
has also been analyzed in this study. tension and spandex linear density were kept
In order to study the effect of as 2.0-2.5 cN/tex and 30 denier,
spandex input tension on dynamic work respectively.
The heat-set fabrics were bleached. 20%, 30%, 40% and 50% extension. The
Bleaching was carried out with 2 g/l of average number of wales per centimeter and
hydrogen peroxide, 0.4 g/l of wetting oil, 0.5 courses per centimeter were measured with
g/l of dispersing agent, 1.0 g/l of lubricant, the help of counting glass. The average loop
0.25 g/l of stabilizer and 2.0 g/l of caustic length was measured with the aid of the
soda for 1100C at 30 minutes. Then the HATRA course length tester (method
samples were hot washed for 10 minutes at described in B.S. Handbook no. 11, 1974, pp
80oC. Further, the fabrics were rinsed with 4/102-4/106). The fabric areal density was
1.0 g/l of acetic acid for 15 minutes. The measured using an electronic scale
bleached fabrics were padded and dried at according to method ISO 3801:1977. Fabric
room temperature. geometrical characteristics were measured at
The bleached fabrics were subjected ten different places in the fabric in each
to compacting process with the case.
specifications given in Table 5. After that, The fabrics were tested for their
they were relaxed for 48 hours. dynamic elastic behavior such as dynamic
work recovery based on ASTM D 4964 96
2.4 Test Methods method (CRE principle) at different
extension levels such as 20%, 30%, 40%
The fabrics were tested for their and 50% extension using Instron tester.
geometrical characteristics such as courses Since, human body movement expands the
per centimeter, wales per centimeter and skin by 10 to 50% at different parts 1, the
areal density and dynamic work recovery at applied load was 5 KN at a speed of 500
17.0
16.0
15.0
Wales per centimeter
14.0
13.0
12.0
11.0
K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C
(20) /2.5/0.85 (30)/2.5/0.85 (40)/2.5/0.85 30/2.9/(0.85) 30/2.9/(0.97) 30/2.9/(1.1) 30/(2.5)/0.85 30/(2.9)/0.85 30/(3.4)/0.85
Effect of spandex fineness Effect of spandex Input tension Effect of cotton yarn loop length
a) Effect of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop length on
wale density of the fabrics
27.0
25.0
23.0
21.0
19.0
17.0
K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C
(20) /2.5/0.85 (30)/2.5/0.85 (40)/2.5/0.85 30/2.9/(0.85) 30/2.9/(0.97) 30/2.9/(1.1) 30/(2.5)/0.85 30/(2.9)/0.85 30/(3.4)/0.85
Effect of spandex fineness Effect of spandex Input tension Effect of cotton yarn loop length
b) Effect of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop length on
course density of the fabrics
260.00
Areal density (grams / m2)
220.00
180.00
140.00
K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C K R H B C
(20) /2.5/0.85 (30)/2.5/0.85 (40)/2.5/0.85 30/2.9/(0.85) 30/2.9/(0.97) 30/2.9/(1.1) 30/(2.5)/0.85 30/(2.9)/0.85 30/(3.4)/0.85
Effect of spandex fineness Effect of spandex Input tension Effect of cotton yarn loop length
c) Effect of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop length on
areal density of the fabrics
Fig. 3. Effect of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop
length on geometrical characteristics of the fabrics
3.1.2 DWR of Cotton / Spandex Fabrics the fabric decreases for heat-setting,
at Different Processing Stages bleaching and compacting at course
direction. The DWR of heat set fabric is
The effect of different processing
lower than that of the DWR of the fabric at
stages on the dynamic work recovery of
grey stage in both wale and course
cotton / spandex fabrics was analyzed in
directions. This is due to the reduction of
both wale wise and course wise directions
residual energy of the spandex during heat
and are given in Figure 4.
setting. Bleaching process further reduces
The dynamic work recovery of the
the DWR of the fabric. Compacting (pre-
fabrics at grey stage is higher than that of
shrunk) process increases the DWR of the
the fabric treated at relaxation, heat set,
fabric in wale direction due to fabric over
bleaching and compacting. DWR of the
feed in the same direction. At the same time,
fabric decreases after heat setting and further
DWR of the fabrics decreases in course
decreases for bleaching. After that, the
direction during compacting process. This is
DWR of the fabric increases for compacting
due to fabric stretch in widthwise direction.
process at wale direction and the DWR of
65 30%
60 40%
55 50%
50
45
40
Grey Heat set Bleached Compacted Grey Heat set Bleached Compacted
Processing stages
90
80
70
Dynamic Work Recovery %
60
20%
30%
50 40%
50%
40
30
20
30D/2.9/(0.85) 30D/2.9/(0.97) 30D/2.9/ (1.1) 30D/(2.5)/0.97 30D/(2.9)/0.97 30D/(3.4)/0.97 (20D)/2.9/0.97 (30D)/2.9/0.97 (40D)/2.9/0.97
Effect of spandex input tension Effect of cotton yarn loop length Effect of spandex fineness
Figure 5 (a). Effects of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop
length on DWR of fabrics - wale direction
90
80
Dynamic Work Recovery %
70
60
50
40
20%
30 30%
40%
20 50%
10
0
30D/2.9/(0.85) 30D/2.9/(0.97) 30D/2.9/ (1.1) 30D/(2.5)/0.97 30D/(2.9)/0.97 30D/(3.4)/0.97 (20D)/2.9/0.97 (30D)/2.9/0.97 (40D)/2.9/0.97
Effect of spandex input tension Effect of cotton yarn loop length Effect of spandex fineness
Figure 5 (b). Effects of spandex input tension, spandex linear density and cotton yarn loop
length on DWR of fabrics - course direction
Effect of spandex input tension on nearly 32% higher DWR in course direction.
dynamic work recovery of cotton / spandex No trend is observed between DWR and the
knitted fabrics were analyzed and are given geometrical characteristics of the fabrics.
in Figure 5. When the spandex loop length When the fabric extension levels
increases from 0.85 mm to 0.97 mm, DWR increases from 20 % to 50 %, the DWR of
of the fabric (30 denier spandex and 2.9 mm 30D/2.9/0.85 fabric increases and the DWR
cotton loop length) first increases, then it of 30D/2.9/ 1.1 fabric decreases for wale
decreases when the spandex loop length direction. No trend was found between
increases. This trend is observed in most of spandex input tension and extension levels
the cases at both wale and course directions. in the course direction.
It is observed that the 30D/2.9/0.97 In order to find out the reason for
fabric (30 denier spandex, 2.9 mm cotton the trends observed in Figure 5 (spandex
loop length and 0.97 mm spandex loop input tension), the spandex in the fabrics
length) shows higher DWR than that of the was unraveled and its loop length was
fabric having 0.85 mm and 1.1 mm spandex measured with a pretension weight of
loop length. That is, 30D/2.9/0.97 has nearly 0.001g/denier. The spandex loop length was
44 % higher DWR in wale direction and calculated using the Eq (4).
The calculated spandex loop length was 1.39 bed height was kept to medium level by
mm, 1.41 mm and 1.52 mm for preset measuring the maximum bed height and
spandex loop of 0.85 mm, 0.97 mm and 1.1 minimum bed height. Then, the variable
mm respectively. The spandex loop length pulley was adjusted to feed the minimum
has no correlation with the DWR trends in cotton yarn loop length. The spandex yarn
both wale and course directions. loop length was kept normal. The minimum
Normally, the spandex feed cotton yarn loop length (2.5 mm) was
increases with increasing spandex loop determined by until the machine stops due to
length. Though the spandex feed was higher cotton yarn and spandex yarn jump.
in case of 1.1 mm loop length fabric, the Similarly, the centralized system of cylinder
DWR of the fabric was lower. No reason bed height was kept to medium level. Then,
was found for the lower DWR of the (30D/ the variable pulley was adjusted to feed the
2.9/ 1.1) fabric. maximum cotton yarn loop length values.
Effect of spandex input tension on The spandex yarn loop length was kept
dynamic work recovery of the fabric has normal. The maximum cotton yarn loop
significant at wale direction (F observed > F length (3.4 mm) was determined by until the
critical at F (2, 6) = 21.13, P <0.05) and machine stops due to slackness of cotton
insignificant effect at course direction. (F yarn. The medium yarn loop lengths were
observed < F critical at F (2, 6) = 3.71, P determined by calculating the average of the
>0.05) maximum and minimum yarn loop lengths 8.
The cotton yarn loop length was calculated
3.3.2 Effect of Cotton Yarn Loop Length using the Eq.(5) and tabulated in Table 7.
In order to vary cotton yarn loop
length, the centralized system of cylinder