The Historical Geography of Armenia - Hewson
The Historical Geography of Armenia - Hewson
FROM ANCIENT TO
MODERN TIMES
VOLUME I
THE GEOGRAPHY OF
ARMENIA
Robert H. Hewsen
Physical Geography
| | Historical Armenia
X J W Robert H. Hnvsen
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1. ARMENIA IN ITS HISTORICAL SETTING
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2. THE ARMENIAN PLATEAU
THE GEOGRAPHY OF ARMENIA 5
even later. Third, the Armenians, from a very early period, have had to
share the plateau with later arrivals—Kurds, Persians, Turkmen, and
Turks—and many Armenians who gave up Christianity for Islam must
have been absorbed by these Muslim peoples. Fourth, more than half of
the traditional lands of the Armenian monarchy were lost in the fourth
century A.D. and most of these regions remained under foreign rule ever
after. Finally, for over a thousand years the Armenian people have been
gradually but continuously driven from their homeland. This process,
which began with transfers of population by the Byzantines and which
culminated in the great deportations of 1915 to 1922, created a situation
where, even before World War I, the Armenians were a minority in much
of Armenia, while today they occupy barely a tenth of the territory that
belonged to the Armenian kings in ancient times.
Despite these factors—and they are all important ones—it can be
said that historical Armenia is more or less the region located between
latitudes 38 and 48 degrees and longitudes 37 and 41 degrees, with a total
area of approximately 238,000 square miles. Thus it is a little larger than
Great Britain (228,000 square miles). Clockwise, its neighbors are the
Georgians on the north, the Azerbaijani Turks on the east, the Iranians on
the southeast, the Kurds in the south, the Arabs of Syria and Mesopotamia
on the southwest, and the Anatolian peoples, long ago absorbed by the
Turks, who live to the west. All of these peoples have influenced the
Armenians and have played a significant role in their history.
The Terrain
Armenia is mountainous country, surrounded by great mountain chains
on every side and crossed by lesser ranges that link the major ones
together. Within this framework, the Armenian tableland contains a
number of smaller plateaus set a different altitudes, the regions of Karin
(Erzerum) and Erznga (Erzinjan) being the highest. Apart from these
lesser plateaus, the ranges and their spurs divide Armenia into a number
of small but well-defined districts ranging from broad plains such as
those of Erzerum, Erzinjan, Kharpert (Kharberd, Kharput), and Mush,
to small valleys and narrow gorges such as those that characterize the
northern and eastern parts of the plateau.
In appearance Armenia is a land of harsh and rugged grandeur
more like the American Southwest than like the Rocky Mountain states
or Switzerland. There is little rainfall, forests are rare, and without
irrigation the rich but stony soil is barren.
Robert H. Hewsen
The Mountains
Too often and too easily invaded to be called a natural fortress, as is
often done, Armenia is best described as a large oval obstacle but-
tressed by mountain chains to the north and south and crisscrossed by
other chains that cover the plateau and obscure its sharply rising
escarpment. The mountains on the north are generally known as the
Pontus Mountains, extending 680 miles and averaging 60 to 95 miles
in width; those on the south as the Taurus or Tsui (the latter being the
Armenian translation of the Greek tauros, "bull"), extending 930 miles
and, with its ramifications, averaging 95 miles wide. South of the
Pontus Mountains but facing the Taurus is the Anti-Taurus Range.
South of these but farther east and extending through the center of
Armenia stretch the Central or Armenian Mountains, which have
different names in their different sectors and which turn abruptly south
at Mount Ararat to form the Zagros Range that separates both Turkey
and Iraq from Iran. On the north, where the Pontus Mountains turn
inland, they become the Lesser Caucasus separating Armenia from
Georgia and terminating in the Artsakh or Karabagh Range. Lake
Sevan, thrust up like a great bowl above the rest of the plateau, is
surrounded clockwise by the Areguni, Sevan, Vardenis, and Gegham
mountains. Geologically, all of these ranges are mainly composed of
limestone and igneous rocks, such as trachyte, porphyry, augite, feld-
spar, melaphyre, basalt, quartz, granite, obsidian, and tufa. Like all the
great ranges of Asia, these formations are the result of the buckling of
the earth's crust as it cooled and shrank eons ago.
Owing to these flanking ranges, the approach to Armenia is long
and arduous and limited to only a few perennial routes. Only after
crossing these ranges and noting the far less lengthy descent on their
inner side do travelers become aware that they have ascended a
tableland with a considerable elevation of its own, an island, as it were,
overlooking the entire Middle East and hence having an extraordinar-
ily strategic position whose importance cannot be overestimated.
Before the coming of mechanized warfare and aircraft, whatever
power dominated the Armenian plateau was in a position to dominate
the Middle East. Most of the wars in this part of the world for the past
2,000 years were fought for its possession. Centrally located, whether
for invasion routes or for paths of trade, Armenia has been both the
victim and the beneficiary of its geographic location.
THE GEOGRAPHY OF ARMENIA
The Rivers
Six of the major Armenian rivers quickly leave the plateau, but one of
them, the Araxes (Armenian Araks), flows more than halfway across the
tableland before beginning its final descent to the sea. Watering the great
Ararat plain and passing by so many of the great cities of Armenian
antiquity, it is the only true river of Armenia and, as "Mother Araxes,"
has become, like Mount Ararat, a national symbol to the Armenian people.
The Araxes rises on the northeastern slopes of the Biurakan
Mountains, nine miles south of Karin and passes through the plains of
Pasen and Alashkert, both more than 5,000 feet above sea level. It then
flows through the plain of Ararat, where it forms the boundary first
between the former Soviet Union and Turkey and then between the
former Soviet Union and Iran. The descent from the plain of Karin to
that of Ararat involves a drop of some 5,000 feet, and the cascades and
shallow bed of the river, as well as the narrow wooded gorges through
which it must pass, make it unnavigable, although it has been utilized
for irrigation since time immemorial. The broad plain of Ararat, how-
ever, leaves room for a more leisurely course, and here the river flows
through a luxuriant and fertile region similar to central California. From
earliest times this valley has been the center of Armenian life and
remains so to this day, if only in its eastern half. Here, between Masis
and Mount Aragats, lies the richest part of Armenia, and here in this
plain have lain its various capital cities—Armavir, Ervandashat,
Artashat, Vagharshapat, Dvin, Ani, and Erevan, as well as the important
towns of Ervandakert and Nakhichevan. Here, too, at the site of
Vagharshapat, is found the great monastery of Echmiadzin, the spiritual
and administrative center of the Armenian Church.
Of the other major rivers originating in Armenia, only the Euphrates
flows to any extent within Armenia itself. Here it consists of two arms,
the Western or Upper Euphrates (Armenian Eprat; Turkish Kara) and the
Eastern or Lower Euphrates (Armenian Aratsani; Turkish Murat). Both
of these rivers flow westward through a series of fertile plains, the upper
arm through those of Erzerum and Erzinjan; the lower through those of
Bagrevand, Manazkert, Taron, Palu, and Kharpert. Then, after joining at
Kaben Maden (Armenian Lusatarich), where a great dam creating a vast
lake has been constructed in recent years, the combined Euphrates pierces
the Taurus through a spectacular canyon, flowing down through the
lowlands of Mesopotamia and eventually to the Persian Gulf.
8 Robert H. Hewsen
The Tigris, likewise, flows into the Persian Gulf. Formed by the
merger of several streams running south from the Taurus, it is a river of
southern Armenia only. In the north, the chief river is the Chorokh or
Voh, which carves out the wide valley of Khaghtik or Sper before
entering the Black Sea. The Kur, which flows into the Caspian Sea and
is the chief river of Georgia and Azerbaijan, also rises in Armenia, as
do the Kizil Irmak or "Red River" (Armenian Alis; Greek Halys), the
Yesil (Armenian Ris; Greek Iris), and the Kelkit (Armenian Gayl Get
["Wolf River"]; Greek Lycus), the three largest rivers of Anatolia.
Among the smaller rivers of Armenia are the Akhurian, a tributary of
the Araxes flowing from Lake Tseli (Turkish Cildir) past the ruins of
the medieval city of Ani and forming part of the present frontier between
Turkey and the Armenian Republic; the Hrazdan or Zangu, which flows
from Lake Sevan past Erevan and whose hydroelectric stations provide
much of the electricity for Armenia; the three rivers of Siunik: the Arpa,
the Vorotan, and the Hakera; and the three main rivers of Artsakh: the
Trtu (Terter), the Khachen, and the Gargar. To the north, Armenia is
drained by a number of smaller rivers flowing down to the Kur: the
Debed, Aghstev, Zakam, and others; in the south, by mountain streams
feeding the Tigris: Bitlis, Bohtan, Batman, and others. None of the
Armenian rivers is navigable and none is particularly well stocked with
fish. The landscape of Armenia is old; the rivers have cut deep gorges
and ravines through the soft fields of congealed lava, and waterfalls are
rare. Although rainfall is scanty, the snowcapped peaks yield an abun-
dant supply of water, especially in spring, when countless, rushing
torrents feed the rivers, each cutting a tiny valley or gorge of its own,
the fundamental geographic units of the Armenian plateau.
The Lakes
One of the most remarkable features of the Armenian plateau is the
number and size of its lakes. In fact, most of the lakes of Western Asia
are to be found on the Armenian plateau. The three largest, though not
as large as Lake Erie, are all five to six times larger than Lake Geneva
and lie some five times higher. Each of the three has its own character,
and each now lies in a different country.
Lake Sevan (Classical Armenian Gegham or Gegharkuni) is the
smallest, deepest, and highest of the Armenian lakes. Lying at an altitude
of 6,279 feet, it is 45 miles long, 24 miles wide, and originally covered
an area of some 550 square miles. Its average depth is from 174 to 600
THE GEOGRAPHY OF ARMENIA 9
feet. Some twenty-three streams enter the lake but it has only a single
outlet, the Hrazdan, which, tumbling down some 3,300 feet in a distance
of 65 miles, flows past Erevan to enter the Araxes River. Greatly reduced
in size after 1948 as part of a vast hydroelectric scheme to harness its
waters for the production of electricity, its level has dropped by some
50 feet. Attempts made in the last years of Soviet rule to restore the level
by diverting a number of additional mountain streams to enter the lake
have not been very successful, and pollution brought in by such waters
has resulted in the destruction of much of the marine life of the lake,
including the famous ishkhan "prince" fish, a kind of trout formerly
much esteemed in Soviet Armenia. The lake possessed a single island,
also known as Sevan, now a peninsula because of the lowering of the
level of its waters.
Lake Van (Classical Armenian Bznuniats Dzov ["Sea of
Bznunik"] or less often Rshtuniats Dzov ["Sea of Rshtunik"]) lies at an
altitude of 5,360 feet, is 80 miles long and 40 miles wide, and is the
deepest of the three lakes, having an average depth of some 5,643 feet.
A number of streams enter Lake Van, the largest of which is the Arest,
but it has no outlet. Evaporation of its waters is the sole means by which
the lake level is stabilized. This has resulted in the waters having become
charged with borax and hence undrinkable, but the lake still contains a
solitary species of fish, the tarekh (Cyprinus tarachi), which was for-
merly caught and salted for export. Surrounded by mountains and
dominated by the volcanic peak of Mount Nekh-Masik or Sipan, Lake
Van is one of the loveliest lakes in the world. At the western end of the
lake, a large lava flow from Mount Nemrud blocks what may well have
been an egress once connecting the lake to the Bitlis River, which would
have given it an outlet to the Tigris. A curious feature of Lake Van is
the well-attested phenomenon whereby its waters periodically rise on
one side while lowering on the other. Obviously due to a geological
tilting of its basin, this is why it is rare to find two identical figures for
the depth of its waters. As a result of this fluctuation, of the seven islands
known to have once existed in the lake, three—Dzipan, Tokean, and
Ardzke—are now submerged, as are much of the ruins of the old town
of Arjesh. The four remaining islands in the lake are Lim, Arter,
Aghtamar, and Ktuts. There used to be monasteries on all of them, but
only the famous tenth-century cathedral of the Holy Cross on Aghtamar,
one of the great masterpieces of world architecture, survives.
Lake Urmia (Classical Armenian Kaputan Dzov ["Blue Sea"]) lies
some 4,000 feet above sea level, extends 100 miles from north to south,
10 Robert H. Hewsen
and is 24 miles wide with an area of 1,800 square miles. The largest of
the three Armenian lakes and the only significant body of water in Iran,
its area is deceptive, for Lake Urmia is extremely shallow—more a
lagoon than a lake—averaging only 15 to 15.7 feet and nowhere more
than 44 feet in depth. Subject to the same process of desiccation that has
affected the Caspian Sea, Lake Aral, and other bodies of water in Central
Asia, Lake Urmia was originally much larger. Today surrounded by
marshes, quicksands, and salt flats, the towns of Urmia, Maragha, and
even Tabriz, which once stood on its shores, now lie many miles away.
Having no outlet, the lake is extremely alkaline, and its waters are almost
as lifeless as those of the Dead Sea. The lake supports neither fish nor
mollusks, and only a few crustaceans live in it. Among its many islands,
Shahi was the largest but is now a peninsula. On Shahi, the Mongol
emperor Hulegu Khan built a fortress to contain his treasures and there
he was buried in 1265.
Lake Tseli (Turkish Cildir), Lake Gaylatu (Turkish Balik), Lake
Archishak (Turkish Ercek) and Lake Dzovk (whose Turkish name,
Golciik ["Little Sea"], is a translation of the Armenian) are four of the
lesser lakes of Armenia, many of which are filled with reeds that form
the homes of an astonishing variety of water fowl and other bird life.
The Climate
The elevation of most of Armenia neutralizes its location in the
temperate zone. The high mountains deprive it of the effects of the
cooling breezes from the Black, Mediterranean, and Caspian seas in
the summer and of the hot winds coming from the Mesopotamian
lowlands in winter. The climate is thus continental, harsh and given to
extremes, with long, cold, dry winters (averaging 21 to 50° Fahrenheit
in January with extremes of minus 22° Fahrenheit) and short, hot, dry
summers (averaging 64 to 70° Fahrenheit in July with daytime highs
of 100° or more). Erevan is colder than Moscow in January, and in
Erzerum the winters can be extremely bitter and accompanied by
severe blizzards. Its climate tends to make Armenia a westerly exten-
sion of the great desert lands of Central Asia, and, in spite of the natural
fertility of its rich volcanic soil, its fields are generally untillable
without intensive irrigation. Less than twenty inches of rain falls each
year in the central part of the tableland, while the Plain of Ararat
receives less than ten. The perennial problem of irrigating the soil is
best observed in the vicinity of Van, where the local peasants still make
THE GEOGRAPHY OF ARMENIA 11
use of the canal built by the Urartian king Menuas in the eighth century
B.C. Although this tendency to aridity can be quite severe, it is miti-
gated by the fairly abundant snow, which, though neither frequent nor
especially heavy, results in an enormous quantity of water flowing
down from the mountains each spring, feeding both the major rivers
and the great lakes. For all its severity, the Armenian climate is healthy
and bracing, neither damp in winter like England or the Pacific
Northwest, nor humid in summer like much of the eastern United
States. The cold is brisk and invigorating in winter, and the heat of a
summer day is always followed by a refreshing coolness at night. The
Armenian climate has produced a rugged peasantry and has contrib-
uted to the hardiness and longevity of the population. It has influenced
the construction of housing, determined the cycle of annual occupa-
tions, and led to the disaster of more than one military expedition that
chose the wrong season in which to venture upon the high plateau. We
even hear of an Armenian king—Tiran I—who perished in a sudden
snowstorm while traveling across the high plateau.
Seismic Activity
The Armenian Mountains were highly volcanic in the geological past
and most of its peaks, including Mount Ararat, Mount Aragats (Turk-
ish Alagoz or Alakiaz), Mount Sipan, and Mount Sarakn (Turkish
Nemrud), are extinct volcanos. While none of these has been active
within historical memory, Armenia is still very much the product of
the volcanic activity of its remote past. The plains have been flooded
with lava, which congealed and has long since disintegrated into a rich
volcanic soil, while obsidian (volcanic glass) and tufa (a lightweight
volcanic stone) are still major natural resources. As in many volcanic
areas of the world, mineral springs abound in Armenia, and earth-
quakes are common and frequently severe. The Ararat fault, consisting
of two lines: Erzinjan-Ararat and Dvin-Siunik-Tabriz, runs through
the very center of the country, and quakes along this fault have
wreaked havoc in Armenia. The famed church of Zvartnots was
destroyed by an earthquake in the tenth century and major earthquakes
struck Dvin in 839, 862, and 892, and Tabriz in 858 and 1043. One at
Erzinjan took some 12,000 victims in 1168; another killed about
32,000 people in 1457; and another about 30,000 in 1481. Earthquakes
completely destroyed the city in 1784 and again in 1939 after which
it was rebuilt on a slightly different site; nevertheless, it was badly
12 Robert H. Hewsen
Natural Resources
Flora
Because of the lack of rainfall, Armenia largely presents a stark and
barren appearance except around the towns and villages, where irriga-
tion transforms the countryside into a natural garden. Trees are rare and
forests are found only on the exterior slopes of the mountains facing the
Black Sea and the Mediterranean, except in northern Armenia and in
Karabagh, where some rich forests survive. Most of the trees probably
were cut down in the remote past to provide fuel in winter, so much so
that tesek (dried animal dung mixed with chopped straw) became the
standard fuel in Armenia, as it still is in the villages from Anatolia
through Central Asia. The trees that do exist are largely the poplar, the
aspen, and the oak, as well as all the various fruit trees that can be
induced to grow at these elevations. Small but delicious apples, pears,
peaches, plums, apricots, and cherries, as well as all sorts of melons, are
staples of Armenian horticulture, along with the vine whose grapes
provide heavy sweet wines and rich cognacs. The flowers of Armenia
are the rose, violet, lily, and jasmine.
THE GEOGRAPHY OF ARMENIA 13
Fauna
Armenia is a paradise for hunters, and, in ancient and medieval times,
the kings and nobles devoted themselves to the chase above all other
leisure activities. The wild goat, wild sheep, wolf, fox, mountain lion,
deer, antelope, jackal, bear, lynx, and, above all, the varaz, or wild boar,
were hunted. Among the smaller animals is the rodent known to the
Romans as the Sora armenica (Armenian mouse), which is still called
the ermine. Among the domestic animals, cattle, buffalo, donkeys,
mules, goats, and sheep—especially the fat-tailed variety of the latter—
are the most common. Camels, not native to the plateau but once
common as beasts of burden, are now unusual. Pigs are also rare; as
everywhere else in the Middle East, lamb is the meat of choice. In former
times, wild horses, now extinct, were native to Armenia. Large herds
were cultivated for the benefit of the mounted aristocracy, and Strabo
(1961,10.14.9) tells us that 20,000 foals per year were exported to Persia
as part of the annual tribute. The birds of Armenia are astonishingly
varied. In the marshes of the Plain of Erzerum, some 170 species have
been identified, among them the eagle, vulture, falcon, pheasant, pigeon,
grouse, partridge, hawk, egret, bustard, wild goose, wild duck, quail,
pheasant, francolin, heron, swan, ibis, stork, and crane. The last, the
beloved grunk, has become yet another national symbol for the Arme-
nian people, the Armenian bird par excellence. The insects of Armenia
are the scorpion, tarantula, the mosquito, and the fly. The last was
particularly noxious and was brought under control in Erevan only in
the 1960s.
Agriculture
Two different and not always compatible economies have traditionally
been practiced in Armenia, the lowlands being given over to farming
and the highlands to herding and stockbreeding. Transhumance or
seminomadism is still common, herdsmen spending the winters in the
lowlands and taking their flocks to the mountains for summer pasture
after the heat has burned the plains dry. The Armenians generally have
tended to practice agriculture, leaving the herding of flocks to the
mountain people, especially the Kurds. The conversion of the Arme-
nians to Christianity and the Kurds to Islam only added a religious aspect
to what was already a fundamental difference in the ways of life of the
two peoples. The best farmlands are found in the irrigated plains and
14 Robert H. Hewsen
cleansing agents, and the deposits of the extensive salt flats collected.
Another natural resource appreciated in antiquity and much cultivated
in the Soviet period is the variety of mineral springs and thermal waters,
whose curative properties are highly regarded. Several such spas exist
in the mountains north and south of Lake Sevan—Dilijan, Arzni, and
Jermuk in particular—but they are found as far west as the Euphrates
and they abound in the Plain of Karin (Erzerum).
Historical Geography
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