Professional Documents
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Bake From Scratch - Winter - 2016
Bake From Scratch - Winter - 2016
FROM SCRATCH
53
Morning Mufns
Recipes for
Winter Baking
Reinvented
The Essential
Rye Bread
strawberry-balsamic
muffins p. 47
WINTER 2016
$12.99 US FEATURING
Turkish Pastries
Willa Jean in New Orleans
DISPLAY UNTIL MARCH 21, 2016
Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies
FROM SCRATCH
table of contents
85 island-style comfort
Our winter escape to find the best handheld meat
113 Our Obsession: Kouign Amann
Why (and where!) we are loving this palm-sized affair
pies in the Caribbean of sweetened dough
winter 2016 4
#thebakefeed
TAG YOUR BAKINg ADVENTURES on instagram FROM SCRATCH
While I can’t get enough of Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip and Chunk
Bake from Scratch is published by Hoffman Media, LLC, 1900 International Park Drive,
Cookies (recipe on page 16), I’m an official member of #teamdough. That’s Suite 50, Birmingham, AL 35243. 1-888-411-8995. The cover and contents of Bake from
right—I always sneak bites of dough and batter. Join the conversation on Scratch are fully protected by copyright and cannot be reproduced in any manner without
prior written permission. All rights reserved in all countries. ©2016 Hoffman Media, LLC.
social media, and let us know if you’re #teamdough or #teamnodough. Printed in the USA.
In this issue, we take you behind the scenes for an exclusive look at all-night
baking with our friends at Willa Jean in New Orleans. “The Third Shift” (page
61), showcases the talented Lisa White and Kelly Fields as they craft perfect
pastries, breads, and confections. The magic happens overnight so their bakery
shelves can be filled at first light.
We are thrilled for you to be holding our second issue in your hands.
Thank you for joining us on this baking adventure! Be sure to use
#thebakefeed as you bake your way through this issue and enjoy
every delicious moment of winter.
His essays, columns, and food features have been Sasquatch Books, and Oxmoor House. For this
Daniel Schumacher anthologized 10 times in Best Food Writing, and issue, we enlisted him to bring out the beauty of
Daniel, an enthusiastic eater and seasoned home
he recently passed first-level certification by the Turkish pastries and desserts (page 101). Before
cook, is constantly on the lookout for unique
Court of Master Sommeliers. he got into food styling, Nathan lived in Chicago,
stories, delicious recipes, and food trucks. In this
where he attended school to learn how to make
issue of Bake from Scratch, we sent him to join the Go-to hot toddy: “I love Scotch in toddies—
violins. Always on the move, he plans to spend
crew at Willa Jean bakery in New Orleans for their mixing it with lemon, honey, water, or, better,
most of next year in Thailand.
all-night third shift (page 61). Daniel began his with water and a spoonful of yuja-cha, a kind of
career as a food writer and editor in New York City yuzu marmalade meant to be mixed with hot Go-to hot toddy: “Calvados bourbon hot toddy—
before moving South. For more than three years, water as a citron tea base that you can get in any it’s great hot with lemon juice and top quality
he has lived in New Orleans serving as the editor Korean market.” cider. Rather than use exact measurements, I just
of Louisiana Cookin’, a Hoffman Media magazine eyeball it.”
Favorite dessert made with molasses: “For me,
and the only national publication devoted to
there’s nothing better than warm gingerbread
true connoisseurs of Louisiana’s unique culture,
with lemon curd. Seriously: best dessert ever.”
cuisine, and travel destinations.
53 Recipes for
Winter Baking
BREAD page 47
Perfect Caribbean day of eating: “I’d follow Morning /WHƂPU
Reinvented
Marbled Rye Bread 60 PHOTOGRAPHY BY
The Essential
the smell of curry to whatever’s cooking on the STEPHEN DEVRIES Rye Bread
MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
barbecue ribs if available. Then I’d nap in a FEATURING
hammock beachside before dressing up to dine BARS AND COOKIES MARY BETH JONES Thomas Keller’s Chocolate Chip Cookies
al fresco somewhere that serves lobster. Ideally Chocolate Chip and Chunk
there’d be live music, so I’d get up to dance in Cookies 16
Chocolate-Espresso Cookies 74 Cherry Sweet Rolls 95
between courses so as not to overindulge too
Dream Bars 19 Cinnamon Rolls 73
much. I’d want to rise early the next day to do
Ginger and Peanut Butter Grapefruit Soufflés with Grapefruit
it all again!” Brownies 82 Crème Anglaise 37
Linzer Cookies with Meyer Lemon Hot Chocolate 18
Curd 37 Hot Chocolate Grog 18
Malbec Fig Brownies 82 Meyer Lemon Curd 37
One-Pound Chocolate Brownies 82 Noah’s Pudding 108
Raspberry Brownies 82 Pots de Crème 81
Rye Bread Pudding with Pastrami
Tanner Latham CAKES and Leeks 56
An award-winning travel writer, radio reporter, Rye Crisps 56
Blood Orange Loaf Cake 34
and multimedia storyteller, Tanner has written Cardamom Flourless Chocolate Cake 81 Strawberry-Apple Cobbler 96
about everything from cinderblock barbecue Clementine-Almond Cake 34 Tangerine Madeleines 34
joints to luxurious, five-star resorts. We sent Nejla’s Yogurt Dessert 108
him to Tartine to get the scoop on one of San Pear-Almond Cake 99 MUFFINS
Pecan Crumble Coffee Cake 95 Bacon Cheddar Poppy Seed
Francisco’s most iconic bakeries (page 21). His
Pineapple-Curry Upside-Down Cake 95 Muffins 50
stories have aired on NPR and have appeared in
Banana Chocolate Espresso Swirl
Coastal Living, Country Living, and other publications. FROSTINGS, GARNISHES, AND Muffins 50
He lives in the Bay Area of Northern California, GLAZES Beet and Goat Cheese Muffins
where, in his spare time, he hosts Authentic US, a Black Sesame Streusel 50 with Orange Streusel 44
nationally distributed storytelling podcast that Blood Orange Glaze 34 Blueberry-Cornmeal Muffins
tells extraordinary stories of ordinary people. Blood Orange Simple Syrup 34 with Thyme Glaze 49
Candied Clementines 34 Cinnamon Swirl Muffins with
Listen at AuthenticUsStories.com.
Chocolate Whipped Cream 81 Pecans 44
Go-to hot toddy: “Four Roses with lemon and a Crumb Topping 95 Matcha-Almond Muffins with Black
drop of honey (more whiskey, less hot water).” Grapefruit Crème Anglaise 37 Sesame Streusel 49
Orange Streusel 44 Strawberry-Balsamic Muffins 47
Perfect Visit to Tartine: “Mid-afternoon on a Thyme Glaze 49
warm-for-San Francisco (upper 70s) Sunday. The Thyme Syrup 49 PASTRY, PIES, AND TARTS
line would be a challenge, but I’d strategically Baklava 110
score one of the outside tables lining 18th Street. MISCELLANEOUS Chocolate Éclairs 81
Balsamic Reduction 47 Chocolate Hand Pies 78
I’d consume my thick newspaper (New York Times)
Beet Purée 44 Poğaça 108
page by page and my frangipane tart bite by bite.”
resources
On the Shelf The Essential Rye For the Love of Cast Iron Cake Fit for Kings
Pages 11-12 Pages 51-60 Pages 89-100 Pages 111-112
Threshold large marble Kitchen apron in bark by Cast-iron wedge pan and Linen kitchen apron in grey
house available at Target, Studio Patró, 415-775- skillets by Lodge, 423- and natural French-stripe
target.com. 3432, studiopatro.com. 837-7181, lodgemfg.com. linen kitchen towel available
at Sur La Table, 800-243-
0852, surlatable.com.
winter 2016 8
products
winter kitchen
essentials
E
From citrus souffles to loaf breads, the recipes in this issue are a lot
easier with the right tools. Here are some of our staff picks to help
you cook your way through this issue of Bake From Scratch.
1. Microplane Grater-Zester without Grip
This handy tool makes fast work of all things citrus, perfect for the recipes in
“Drops of Sunshine” (page 31). We prefer the model sans handgrip, as it’s easy
to position atop a bowl.
$9.95; surlatable.com
the
BREAD
basket
By Lionel Vatinet
Master Baker Lionel Vatinet is a dough genius. Plain and simple. At his unassuming
bakery in Cary, North Carolina, this French native produces swoon-worthy boules,
Bien Cuit:
baguettes, and beyond. In his book, A Passion for Bread: Lessons from a Master Baker (Little, The Art of Bread
Brown and Company), he uses step-by-step photos to guide readers through by Zachary Golper and Peter Kaminsky
shaping, folding, scoring, and filling loaves, from classic sourdough to baguettes Deep in Brooklyn’s Boerum Hill neighborhood, Zachary
stuffed with sausage and mozzarella. Particularly helpful for novice bread bakers are Golper lives in a flurry of flour at his beloved Bien
his seven key steps to great bread, such as basics on proper measuring and easy-to- Cuit bakery. His signature style relies on long, cold
follow explanations of fermentation. fermentation, a process that helps the bread develop deep,
complex flavors and a thick crust the color of mahogany.
For his first cookbook, Bien Cuit: The Art of Bread, he teams
Making Dough up with noted food critic and author Peter Kaminsky. In
by Russel van Kraayenburg addition to delivering recipes for classic Pullman loaves,
Dough lies at the heart of baking. And the trick to good dough is all about getting Bourbon Bread, Port-Fig Rolls, and sweet and savory
ingredients in the right proportions. Baking is a science, after all—it boils down to the quick breads, this gorgeous photo-packed tome covers
relationship between flour, butter, water, sugar, and eggs. In Making Dough: Recipes and essentials on grains and flours (and how different varieties
Ratios for Perfect Pastries (Quirk Books), Russell van Kraayenburg, founder of the award- affect a recipe), necessary equipment, and the underlying
winning blog Chasing Delicious, lays out the secrets to mastering 12 essential pastry alchemy of bread. b
doughs, including biscuits, scones, brioche, and croissants. We love the handy chart that
translates what you can make once you’ve mastered the basic doughs. For example, once
you’ve gotten the knack of shortcrust, you can broaden your repertoire to tarts, tartlets,
pop tarts, and even cookies.
expert q & a
THOMAS KELLER ON
CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES
No matter who you are, homemade chocolate chip cookies are the great equalizer.
We spoke with chef Thomas Keller, one of the most acclaimed and accomplished chefs
in the world. to get his favorite recipe and find out what separates a good cookie from a great one.
Because let’s be honest, we all know there’s no such thing as a bad chocolate chip cookie.
What is the secret to a great chocolate chip cookie? more molasses, which you get from a higher ratio of brown sugar. Crispier
Superior chocolate makes a chocolate chip cookie great. Buy the best quality cookies are obtained with a lower ratio of brown sugar.
ingredients you can afford—that is the first step to achieving your best
cookie possible. Chocolate chip cookies are best eaten .
10-15 minutes out of the oven!
What chocolate is best?
At Bouchon Bakery, we use Guittard Chocolate Company’s 72% morsels My favorite chocolate chip cookie from childhood was .
and chunks for our Chocolate Chip and Chunk Cookies because it fits our Classic Toll House.
style and achieves the flavor profile we want, all from a local purveyor. Their
72% has a high cacao content, so it’s more acidic and really showcases the Crunchy or gooey?
flavor of the cacao amongst the rest of the ingredients. I prefer a crunchy exterior with a soft and chewy center, just like we make
them at our bakery.
What flour do you prefer when baking cookies?
We use Harvest King All-Purpose Flour at Bouchon Bakery because their Bite-sized or oversized?
product is consistent all year long at each of our locations—Yountville, Las Oversized. One bite is not enough!
Vegas, New York, and Beverly Hills. This is important because the climate in
each of these markets is different, and humidity can affect the performance Favorite store-bought chocolate chip cookie?
of your dry ingredients. For anyone with a gluten allergy, Cup4Cup gluten- I don’t buy them.
free flour is a great substitute for all-purpose flour.
Best drink with a chocolate chip cookie?
What’s your trick for getting gooier or crispier cookies? A glass of ice-cold milk.
You can play with the ratio of brown sugar. For a chewy cookie you want
winter 2016 14
thomas keller on his chocolate chip and chUnk cookies
Bouchon Bakery is well known for its cookies. We love our cookies, and we make them big. The chocolate chunk and chip recipe
was one of our first. In most cooking or baking, varying textures is important, and cookies are no different. This is why we use both
chocolate chunks and chocolate chips, which behave differently in the dough. The chunks melt, but the chips don’t.
I’ve always believed that when you have a special, expensive ingredient—truffles, for instance, or foie gras—it’s important to offer
it in abundance so that people know what the fuss is about. Chocolate falls into that category here—these cookies are packed with
chocolate. We use plenty of brown sugar as well as molasses for a deep, rich flavor. If you like nuts in your cookies, feel free to add them
instead of either the chocolate chunks or the chocolate chips.
CHOCOLATE CHIP
and chunk COOKIES
Makes 6 cookies, 4 inches each (overwhipping the eggs could cause the cookies to
expand too much during baking and then deflate).
1½ cups plus 3 tablespoons (238 grams) all-purpose 4. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on
flour low speed for 15 to 30 seconds after each, or until just
½ teaspoon (2.3 grams) baking soda combined. Scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt any dry ingredients that have settled there. Add the
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (134 grams) lightly packed chocolates, and pulse on low speed about 10 times to
dark brown sugar combine. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
1¾ teaspoons (12 grams) unsulphured blackstrap 5. Position the racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven,
molasses and preheat the oven to 325°F (convection or standard). Line
½ cup plus 1 teaspoon (104 grams) granulated sugar two sheet pans with Silpats or parchment paper.
⅔ cup (107 grams) ⅜-inch chunks 70% to 72% 6. Using the ice cream scoop, divide the dough into 6
chocolate equal portions (150 grams each). Roll each one into a
Scant ½ cup (107 grams) chocolate chips ball between the palms of your hands. (The dough can be
5.9 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter, at room shaped in advance; see Note.)
temperature 7. The cookies are very large; bake only 3 on each pan.
3 tablespoons plus 2½ teaspoons (60 grams) eggs With a short end of the pan toward you, place one cookie
in the upper left corner, one in the lower left corner, and
the third one in the center, toward the right side of the
You’ll need a 2½-inch (#10) ice cream scoop. For this pan. Bring the dough to room temperature before baking.
recipe, we use Valrhona Guanaja 70% or Guittard 72% 8. Bake until golden brown, 14 to 16 minutes in a
chocolate. Cookies baked in a convection oven will have convection oven, 18 to 20 minutes in a standard oven,
a more even color and will not spread as much as those reversing the positions of the pans halfway through
baked in a standard oven. baking. Set the pans on a cooling rack, and cool for 5 to
10 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the rack to cool
1. Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking completely.
soda. Add the salt, and whisk together. Place the dark
brown sugar in a small bowl, and stir in the molasses and The cookies are best the day they are baked, but they can
granulated sugar, breaking up any lumps; the mixture will be stored in a covered container for up to 3 days.
not be completely smooth.
2. Place the chocolate chunks in a strainer, and tap the Note on Advance Preparation: The shaped dough can be
side to remove any powdered chocolate, which would refrigerated for up to 2 days before baking. For longer
cloud the cookies. Mix with the chocolate chips. storage, freeze the dough in a covered container or a
3. Place the butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with plastic bag for up to 1 month; the day before baking, place
the paddle attachment. Turn to medium-low speed, and the cookies on a lined baking sheet, and defrost in the
cream the butter, warming the bowl if needed, until it is refrigerator overnight. Bring to room temperature before
the consistency of mayonnaise and holds a peak when baking.
the paddle is lifted. Add the molasses mixture, and mix
for 3 to 4 minutes, until fluffy. Scrape down the sides and For Smaller Cookies: Divide the dough into 12 equal
bottom of the bowl. Add the eggs, and mix on low speed portions (75 grams each). Bake for 12 to 14 minutes in a
for 15 to 30 seconds, until just combined. Scrape the convection oven, 16 to 18 minutes in a standard oven. b
bowl again. The mixture may look broken, but that is fine
Recipe and photos excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012. Photography by Deborah Jones.
winter 2016 16
perfect pairing
HAPPY HOUR
Hot Chocolate
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
FOOD STYLING BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
ANNA THEOKTISTO
1 chai tea bag 1. In a small saucepan, bring milk and cream to a boil over
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons sweetened medium heat. Add Mindy’s HotChocolate Blend to milk
condensed milk mixture, and turn heat off. Let steep for 1 minute. Whisk
1½ cups Hot Chocolate (recipe follows) until well blended. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, if
¼ cup Spanish brandy, such as Senor Lustau desired.
1940 Solera 2. Serve hot, over ice, or with a shot of your favorite liquor.
2 tablespoons orange liqueur, such as Top with whipped cream or a marshmallow, if desired.
Mandarine Napoleon
Sweetened whipped cream
Garnish: toasted marshmallows
THE WORLD’S
neighborhood
BAKERY
BY TANNER LATHAM
Photos courtesy Tartine Bakery and Tartine Bread (Chronicle Books, 2010), photos by Eric Wolfinger.
winter 2016 22
Yes, amid the swell of reverential praise from fierce foodies
and top culinary publications alike, Tartine Bakery has
earned the right to posture as a jewel box, a place that is
precious and exclusive. Thankfully, it has intentionally
chosen to remind you that it is first and foremost a bakery,
the kind you might find in your own neighborhood.
1995—2000
The couple moves to
1995 California’s Bay Area
The couple spends the year traveling throughout and open Bay Village
France, working in esteemed bakeries, such Bakery in Point Reyes
as Boulangerie Artisinale des Maures and Station. Their work
Boulangerie Savoyarde, in Provence and Savoie catches the attention of
and immersing themselves in traditional baking notable food influencers
methods and classical French techniques. including Alice Waters.
“It is a gathering place,” says Liz, recalling how people flock to the bakery
when they are celebrating, or even grieving. These days, the warranted
acclaim usually renders Tartine Bakery more chaotic than quiet, yet the
neighbors still view it as vital to their daily routine. It is a comforting
touchstone. “No matter what is happening in the world, people still like to
have their cup of coffee and a treat.”
We have every reason to believe her. Fifteen years into its storied existence,
Tartine still fits the genuine artisan character that permeates the food scene
in this city. It is an accessible place fully devoted to its craft and to feeding its
community. b
2005 2006
The couple opens Bar Tartine, a Chronicle Books publishes Tartine,
full-service restaurant with a menu that a cookbook which wins a James
evolves to feature Hungarian, Northern Beard Foundation Award for
European, and Asian influences. photography. (Follow-up successes
include Tartine Bread in 2010 and
2013’s Tartine Book No. 3.)
winter 2016 26
from the pantry
From cookies to bread,
this thick amber liquid gives
extra depth to baked goods.
Consider it the liquid gold of
your winter pantry.
BY JOHN KESSLER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES
Just remember: Grandma was young once, and molasses must have been
the salted caramel of her day—sweet and appealingly bitter, with a racy
complexity.
Because molasses is highly acidic (indeed, much of the nation’s output goes
into the production of citric acid), bakers didn’t need any sour milk, vinegar,
or any chemical-tasting cream of tartar or baking powder to leaven their
gingerbread. Just a spoonful of bicarbonate of soda did the trick.
More than other sweeteners, molasses literally sucks moisture out of the
air. That is why dense brown bread has an incomparably tender crumb, and
cookies made with molasses come off the cooling rack both chewy and snappy,
a magical texture thrumming with sugar and spice.
You should make molasses cookies, the easiest and most gratifying recipe you
can find, and soon you will be tinkering endlessly with the spices, the ratios,
and the cooking times until the recipe is yours. You will find the right spicy
bite, the right sugary gloss, the right point on the texture spectrum. But first
you need the right molasses.
Dark molasses comes after the second boiling and extraction of sugar. Now we can
taste that deep sourness, that metallic twang, and that concentrated essence that
spices so readily fold into. If you like bitter flavors, you will lick some off your finger
and then immediately want another taste.
After a third boiling and extraction, we have blackstrap molasses, which, true to its
name, is a black hole of intensity. (“Strap” comes from the Dutch word “stroop”
for syrup.) It tastes like a reduction of Fernet-Branca, espresso, dirt, and pennies.
Loaded with iron, calcium, magnesium, and a host of other minerals and nutrients,
it serves as a fine dietary supplement, which is why people breathe deeply and force
down spoonfuls. When used as a cooking ingredient, it must be added sparingly.
Whichever molasses you choose, make sure to buy one labeled unsulphured,
meaning that it hasn’t been treated with a flavor-altering preservative.
Plantation Blackstrap Molasses
Intense with a burnt, lingering finish. Then you will have a new ingredient in your baking pantry, one waiting to be
alliedoldenglish.com
rediscovered not only for its old-fashioned virtues but also for its challenging,
sophisticated flavor. You’ll realize Grandma kind of had it going on.
Clementine-Almond Cake
Tangerine Madeleines
page 34
winter 2016 38
Muin
a g i c
M
Forget chocolate or lemon poppy seed. It’s time to up your muffin game.
Try these seven flavor combinations— everything but the abracadabra—
for fresh-baked treats that will disappear in no time.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHEN DEVRIES / RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
PHOTO STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES
Banana Chocolate
Espresso Swirl Muffins
page 50
Beet Purée
Makes ½ cup
winter 2016 46
STRAWBERRY-BALSAMIC MUFFINS 1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 8 jumbo muffin 4. Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven
Makes 8 cups with parchment or paper liners, or coat temperature to 350°, and continue baking until
well with cooking spray. muffins are golden brown and a wooden pick
Sweet strawberries and tangy balsamic vinegar are 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, inserted in center comes out clean, 25 to 30
a match made in heaven. These muffins take this baking powder, and salt. In the bowl of a stand minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes. Serve
combo to an entirely new level. mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat warm or at room temperature.
granulated sugar, sour cream, eggs, and orange
2½ cups (360 grams) all-purpose flour juice at medium speed until well combined, Balsamic Reduction
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder 3 to 4 minutes, stopping occasionally to Makes about ¾ cup
1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt scrape down sides of bowl. Reduce mixer
1 cup (215 grams) granulated sugar speed to low, and gradually add flour mixture. 1 cup high-quality balsamic vinegar
1 cup sour cream Continue beating at low speed, and add oil in
3 large eggs a slow, steady stream until combined. Fold in 1. In a small saucepan, bring balsamic vinegar
½ cup fresh orange juice strawberries. to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat
½ cup (110 grams) vegetable oil 3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. to medium, and simmer until vinegar coats the
1½ cups fresh strawberries, chopped Top each muffin with 1 tablespoon Balsamic back of a spoon and is reduced to about ¾ cup.
½ cup Balsamic Reduction (recipe follows) Reduction, and use a wooden pick to swirl. Let cool completely. Cover and refrigerate for
½ cup (90 grams) turbinado sugar Sprinkle with turbinado sugar. up to 1 month.
cere
recip
Note: We styled this photo in a regular muffin tin,
but you need to bake them in a jumbo muffin tin.
Matcha-Almond Muffins with
Black Sesame Streusel
page 49
winter 2016 48
BLUEBERRY-CORNMEAL MUFFINS 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 1. In a small saucepan, bring granulated sugar,
WITH THYME GLAZE cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda, and ¼ cup water, and thyme to a boil over medium-
Makes 8 salt. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with high heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar is
the paddle attachment, beat butter and brown dissolved. Remove from heat, and let cool
Sometimes it’s the unexpected flavor profiles that sugar at medium speed until fluffy, 3 to 4 completely. Remove thyme sprigs when cool.
become our favorites. Blueberry, corn, and thyme minutes, stopping occasionally to scrape down
might not be the first thing you think of when sides of bowl. Add eggs and vanilla, beating well MATCHA-ALMOND MUFFINS WITH
you think “blueberry muffin,” but trust us, this after each addition. Gradually add flour mixture BLACK SESAME STREUSEL
combination is killer. to butter mixture alternately with buttermilk, Makes 8
beginning and ending with flour mixture,
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour beating just until combined after each addition. Green tea fans rejoice! Now you can have your
1 cup (135 grams) cornmeal Fold in blueberries. tea and eat it, too. These tender green tea muffins
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. are not only visually striking; they are positively
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking soda Bake for 5 minutes. Reduce oven temperature delicious. The savory black sesame streusel
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt to 350°, and continue baking until muffins are perfectly offsets the sweet matcha.
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in
1¼ cups (210 grams) firmly packed light center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let 2 cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour
brown sugar cool in pans for 5 minutes. Drizzle with Thyme 1 cup (100 grams) almond flour
2 large eggs Glaze, and serve warm or at room temperature. 2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon (6 grams) kosher salt
1 cup buttermilk Thyme Glaze ½ teaspoon (2 grams) baking soda
1½ cups fresh blueberries Makes ⅓ cup 1 cup (220 grams) firmly packed light
Thyme Glaze (recipe follows) brown sugar
¼ cup Thyme Syrup (recipe follows) 2 large eggs
1. Preheat oven to 425°. Line 8 jumbo muffin 1 cup (120 grams) confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted
cups with parchment or paper liners, or coat and cooled
well with cooking spray. 1. Whisk together Thyme Syrup and 1 cup whole milk
confectioners’ sugar until smooth. 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (11 grams)
matcha powder
Thyme Syrup 1 cup slivered almonds
Makes ¼ cup Black Sesame Streusel (recipe follows)
¼ cup (53 grams) granulated sugar 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups
¼ cup water with parchement or paper liners, or coat well with
4 sprigs fresh thyme cooking spray.
2. In a large bowl, whisk together all-purpose
flour, almond flour, baking powder, salt, and
baking soda. Make a well in the center of 1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese 1 teaspoon cinnamon
mixture. In a small bowl, stir together brown ½ cup chopped pecans ½ teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
sugar, eggs, melted butter, milk, and matcha 1 tablespoon poppy seeds 1½ cups mashed banana
powder. Add to dry ingredients, stirring just 2 large eggs
until moistened. Fold in almonds. 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups ½ cup (108 grams) vegetable oil
3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. with parchment or paper liners, or coat well with ¼ cup buttermilk
Top with Black Sesame Streusel, and bake until cooking spray. 1 tablespoon molasses
golden brown and a wooden pick inserted in 2. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, baking 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let powder, and salt. Make a well in the center of
cool in pans for 5 minutes. Serve warm or at mixture. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line 8 jumbo muffin cups
room temperature. buttermilk. Add to dry ingredients, stirring just with parchment or paper liners, or coat well with
until moistened. Fold in all remaining ingredients. cooking spray.
Black Sesame Streusel 3. Spoon batter into prepared muffin cups. 2. In the top of a double boiler, melt chocolate
Makes 2½ cups Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center with espresso powder. Remove from heat, and
comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool let cool. In a large bowl, whisk together flour,
1½ cups (216 grams) all-purpose flour in pans for 5 minutes. Serve warm or at room sugar, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and nutmeg.
⅓ cup (74 grams) granulated sugar temperature. Make a well in the center of mixture. In a
⅓ cup (70 grams) firmly packed light brown medium bowl, whisk together mashed banana,
sugar BANANA CHOCOLATE ESPRESSO eggs, oil, buttermilk, molasses, and vanilla. Add
1 tablespoon black sesame seeds SWIRL MUFFINS to dry ingredients, stirring just until moistened.
½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt Makes 8 Spoon 1½ cups (330 grams) batter into a
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted separate bowl, and stir in chocolate-espresso
We’re not sure if these muffins are breakfast or mixture.
1. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, dessert, but we promise not to judge if you eat one 3. Spoon banana batter into prepared muffin
granulated sugar, brown sugar, black sesame (okay, three) of them hot out of the oven. (They’re cups, filling two-thirds full. Using the back of a
seeds, and salt. Add melted butter, stirring until THAT good.) spoon, make a shallow trench in the middle of
mixture becomes crumbly. each muffin cup. Spoon in chocolate-espresso
1 cup semisweet chocolate morsels batter, and swirl with a wooden pick. Bake until a
BACON CHEDDAR POPPY SEED 1½ tablespoons (6 grams) espresso powder wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean,
MUFFINS 2 cups (256 grams) all-purpose flour 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool in pans for 5 minutes.
Makes 8 ¾ cup (185 grams) sugar Serve warm or at room temperature. b
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking soda
This cheesy, bacon-filled muffin will satisfy all of ½ teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt
your savory breakfast cravings.
rye
Unless your great grandmother
emigrated from northern Europe or
you live around the corner from a
Jewish deli, you may have never tasted
freshly baked rye bread. But it has been
a staple in countries such as Sweden,
Germany, Poland, Lithuania, and Russia
for millennia. Some people say just the
aroma of rye bread baking is reason
enough to try your hand at making
these tasty loaves. You be the judge.
BY BETTY TERRY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN O’HAGAN
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING
BY MARY-CLAIRE BRITTON
Doesn't this Studio Patro apron
look great? It's soft and perfect for
everyday baking. studiopatro.com
rye sandwich bread
Makes 1 (9x5-inch) loaf
We love this loaf because of its unbeatable texture, deep rye flavor, and versatility. It can be baked
in a standard loaf pan, a Pullman pan, or hand-shaped into a rustic bâtard or boule. This kind of
versatility makes a perfect starter loaf for the timid baker!
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine all-purpose
PRO TIP: Baking with a Pullman Pan
flour, rye flour, warmed milk, molasses, butter, caraway seeds, salt, and yeast until moist-
ened. Let stand for 20 minutes to let the rye absorb some liquid and begin to relax a bit. Don’t put the lid on a Pullman loaf pan
Knead for about 8 minutes in the mixer, or 12 minutes by hand. Spray a large bowl with until it has finished its final rise, especially
cooking spray. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in a warm, if you are new to baking with them. You
may want to check on the bread while
draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, 1 to 2 hours.
it’s rising, and removing the lid will wreak
2. Turn out risen dough onto a lightly floured surface, and deflate it to remove excess air. Pull havoc with the loaf. Once the dough has
the four corners of the dough into the center, and roll gently with palms to form a loaf. Spray risen to within ½ inch of the rim of the
a 9x5-inch loaf pan or Pullman pan with cooking spray. Place loaf in pan. Cover and proof in pan, slide the lid on and bake it.
a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size, 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 375°. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon water. Brush
over risen loaf, and sprinkle with more caraway seeds, if desired. Using a sharp knife or
lame, make 4 large slashes across top of loaf. Bake until golden brown and an instant-read
thermometer inserted in center registers 190°, 35 to 40 minutes. Let cool in pan for 20
minutes. Remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack.
winter 2016 54
TOPPINGS FOR RYE CRISPS
Our freshly baked Rye Crisps can be
used to make delicious canapés. From
left to right (above), we’ve topped
them with:
• A generous smear of crème fraîche, a
thin slice of smoked salmon, fresh dill
leaves, and a sprinkle of lemon zest
• Apple slices and pistachios over goat
cheese
• Chive-garlic compound butter and
thin radish slices
Connect with us on social media
using #thebakefeed, and let us
know how you top your Rye Crisps.
rye crisps
Makes 48 1. In a small bowl, stir together milk and
molasses. In the work bowl of a food processor,
Dunk these crisps into your bowl of soup or trick combine rye flour, all-purpose flour, salt,
them out with toppings at your next soirée. These 1 tablespoon (7 grams) caraway seeds, and
crisps are packed with rye flavor and will not baking powder. Pulse to combine. Add butter,
disappoint. and process until mixture is crumbly. With
processor running, add milk mixture in a slow,
½ cup whole milk steady stream just until dough comes together.
1 tablespoon molasses Turn out dough, and shape into a disk. Wrap in PRO TIP:
1 cup (155 grams) rye flour plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. A pizza cutter makes
1 cup (140 grams) all-purpose flour 2. Preheat oven to 400°. Divide dough in half. quick work of cutting the
2 teaspoons (10 grams) kosher salt On a silicone baking mat or sheet of parchment dough for Rye Crisps.
2 tablespoons (14 grams) caraway seeds, paper, roll dough to ¹⁄₁₆-inch thickness. In a
divided small bowl, whisk together egg and 1 tablespoon
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder water. Brush across dough, and sprinkle with
3 tablespoons (45 grams) cold unsalted remaining 1 tablespoon (7 grams) caraway
butter, cubed seeds. Using a docker or fork, prick the dough.
1 egg With a sharp knife or pizza wheel, slice dough
1 tablespoon water into 2-inch rectangles. Bake until edges begin
to brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool completely
on a wire rack.
Makes 12 servings
1. Preheat oven to 350°. Line a baking sheet
This bread pudding is full of the Reuben sandwich with parchment paper. Line 12 jumbo muffin
flavors we love most. cups with paper liners or parchment paper.
2. Spread bread cubes on prepared baking
6 cups Rye Sandwich Bread (recipe on page sheet, and bake until beginning to brown,
54), cut into 1-inch cubes about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a large
4 tablespoons (57 grams) unsalted butter sauté pan, melt butter over medium-high
2 large leeks (white and green parts only), heat. Add leeks, and cook until tender, 15 to
halved lengthwise and thinly sliced 20 minutes.
6 large eggs 3. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, milk,
2 cups whole milk and cream. Add mustard, cheese, pastrami,
2 cups heavy whipping cream salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir in cooked
1 tablespoon whole grain mustard leeks. Add bread cubes to custard, and let
1 cup shredded Swiss cheese stand 15 minutes. Divide mixture evenly in
½ pound pastrami, finely diced prepared muffin cups. Bake until custard is
2 teaspoons (10 grams) kosher salt set and tops are golden brown, about 30 to
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) ground black pepper 35 minutes.
1 teaspoon grated fresh nutmeg
winter 2016 56
PRO TIP: For A Crowd
The bread pudding can also be
baked in a 13x9-inch baking
dish for 1 hour to 1 hour and
30 minutes.
Light dough:
1¾ cups (220 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ cup (118 grams) rye flour
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter
1 tablespoon honey
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt
1 teaspoon (5 grams) active dry yeast
1 cup water, room temperature 3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface, and
deflate it to remove excess air. Divide each ball in half.
Roll each dough quarter into a 9x6-inch rectangle.
Dark dough: Layer rectangles on top of one another, alternating
1¾ cups (220 grams) all-purpose flour light and dark. Starting at one long side, roll dough into
¾ cup (118 grams) rye flour a log. Spray a 9x5-inch loaf pan with cooking spray.
3 tablespoons (42 grams) unsalted butter Place loaf seam side down in pan. Cover and let rise
3 tablespoons (22 grams) unsweetened cocoa in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in size,
powder about 1 hour.
1 tablespoon molasses 4. Preheat oven to 375°.
1½ teaspoons (9 grams) kosher salt 5. For topping: In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 teaspoon (5 grams) active dry yeast 1 tablespoon water. Brush egg wash over loaf. Using a
1 cup water, room temperature sharp knife or lame, make 4 deep slashes across top of
loaf. Sprinkle with caraway seeds and flax seeds. Bake
Topping: until golden brown and an instant-read thermometer
1 egg inserted in center registers 190°, 35 to 40 minutes.
1 tablespoon water Let cool in pan for 20 minutes. Remove from pan, and
1 tablespoon caraway seeds let cool completely on a wire rack. b
1 teaspoon flax seeds
winter 2016 60
the
THIRD SHIFT
At closing time in
the Crescent City,
things are just
getting started
at Willa Jean
BY DANIEL SCHUMACHER
PHOTOGRAPHY BY
STEPHEN DEVRIES
While most of New Orleans sleeps,
the lights burn bright at Willa Jean, which opened the middle
of last year in the city’s new South Market District. Conceived
as a partnership between superstar pastry chef Kelly Fields,
accomplished baker Lisa White, and Crescent City restaurant
magnate Chef John Besh, the restaurant garnered instant local
and national acclaim for its Southern-inspired dishes and its
ambitious in-house bread-baking program (which includes
comforting white bread, crusty baguettes, and three-day aged
Siciliano loaves).
9:32 pm
On the playlist: ”let Me Clear My Throat” — DJ Kool
When Lisa arrives for the Third Shift, dinner service is nearly over, but a few customers still
linger over their espressos and salted chocolate chip cookies. In the kitchen, though, the line
cooks are hard at work breaking down their stations and cleaning up. With clouds of steam
from the dishwashers, floury mops, and excitement everywhere, they’re deciding which bar or
restaurant they’ll be hitting once their shift ends.
While Lisa writes up her prep list for the next day, she sips on a warm cup of herbal tea. Her
favorite: Kilogram’s 333, a caffeine-free blend of sweet-tart rosehips, peppermint, and chamomile.
The irony that she’s a coffee shop owner who hardly drinks the stuff isn’t lost on her.
On a normal night, she’d sit down with Kelly Fields to bounce around ideas for new menu items,
breads, and flavor profiles she wants to try. Though the two are close collaborators, they work
opposite schedules, with Kelly leading the day shift. They’re often like ships passing in the night,
relying on quick meetings and a constant flow of e-mails to stay in touch. This isn’t a normal
evening, though. Kelly has decided to stay for her first Third Shift.
winter 2016 62
10:56 pm
On the playlist: “It’s Tricky” — Run DMC
A few feet away, Lisa works on new Danish shapes. Now that
Willa Jean has been open for a few months, she’s trying some
different cuts, twists, and folds.
9:51 pm
Christina Tosi’s successful Momofuku Milk Bar in New York
City was more what she had in mind. But that’s not the way
it worked out. And she’s realizing people will travel for those
On the playlist: “Shoop” - Salt-N-Pepa salted chocolate chip cookies. In just a few short months, the
With the kitchen to themselves and early 90s music on the bakery has reached destination status.
hi-fi, the Third Shifters work with a quiet intensity. Flour is
everywhere, and it’s just the beginning. Pullman loaves are in
the oven, and Tasha Tetreau, a 10-year pastry cook, shapes a
dozen baguettes, pinching, pulling, and stretching the dough,
goading it into the classic shape.
The morning and afternoon crew mixed the dough for all
of Willa Jean’s breads, gave them a first shape, and let them
rest. In the beginning of her shift, Tasha gives the baguettes,
pumpernickel, and semolina loaves the final touches before
getting them into the oven. Semolinas are studded with sesame
seeds and sliced with a razor blade, and the pumpernickels get a
thick dusting of flour.
A caffeine fiend, Kelly pours another Milk Money Latte with four additional shots
of espresso. The farm that produces the milk used for Willa Jean’s coffee program,
Progress Milk Barn, was the first recipient of the John Besh Foundation’s Milk Money
Grant, which provides micro-loans and business training to small family farms in
the New Orleans area. A portion of the latte sales go back to the foundation.
The air is getting sweeter as the cinnamon rolls begin their final rise.
Behind her are a few large paper bags full of day-old bread and pastries that
Willa Jean contributes to a local food pantry and after-school program.
As Lisa walks back-and-forth stocking the bakery, she tracks perfect
floury footprints all over the honeycomb-tile floor. We all do. Jermaine
Robinson, a father of two, who had been working in the dining room all
night lays down paper to help control the mess.
2:45 Am
On the playlist: “Ol’ Lady” – Big Freedia
Heavy pans of cinnamon rolls are ready for the
oven. Based on Kelly’s mother’s recipe, the sweet,
sticky rolls are another tie to her roots in coastal
South Carolina. Willa Jean was named after Kelly’s
paternal grandmother, and while the two didn’t
cook much together, time spent in the kitchen and
around the table ignited Kelly’s passion for cooking.
The smaller convection oven the team uses for pastries
is packed with croissants and Danishes, as tender,
tangy buttermilk biscuits cool nearby after their turn
in the oven.
In the last hour, the Third Shifters have swept up mountains of flour
and continued their baking. We start to see the first new faces of the day.
Bright-eyed but still sleepy, the first shift begins arriving. At once, the
clanging of pots and the kitchen chatter escalates. Meanwhile, it’s still
pitch-black and a little foggy outside the restaurant. Until a year or so
ago, this neighborhood was a mishmash of slightly decaying parking lots.
In the period of a few months, dozens of high-end developments have
sprung up.
5:26 Am
On the playlist: “Just a Friend” – Biz Markie
Bunches of eggs bob around a large water bath, getting
poached for the morning rush, which will begin in just over
an hour. Kate cuts servings of breakfast pizzas and savory
foccacias. Adrian Morgan, the morning shift dough mixer
and competitive eater, has taken over a corner of the kitchen
to start the day’s loaves. Lisa unmolds, slices, and inspects
the cinnamon babka. The silver is polished and the chairs
are mostly set. Tall stacks of powdered chocolate-espresso
cookies line the bakery counter.
winter 2016 70
7:00 am
The kitchen jams stop and the world returns to color.
For the people queued at Willa Jean’s coffee bar, waiting for their Intelligentsia Coffee
espresso, it’s morning and sunlight is just starting to creep into the high-ceilinged room.
But for Lisa, it’s m’evening—a strange time where sunlight and exhaustion collide, and
one to which she’s just starting to acclimate. Before heading home, she has a mimosa.
A big one. With the day’s dough proofing safely in the kitchen, she’ll try to catch some
sleep before she and her overnight bakers start up again.
On the following pages, enjoy Lisa and Kelly’s recipes that you can create at home.
winter 2016 72
CINNAMON ROLLS 1 large egg speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Beat in
Recipe adapted from Kelly Fields, Willa Jean 3 tablespoons (27 grams) cornstarch one-third flour until combined. Beat in salt
¼ teaspoon salt and remaining 3 tablespoons granulated sugar.
Makes 6 ¼ cup (58 grams) unsalted butter Gradually beat in remaining two-thirds flour.
1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3. Switch to dough hook attachment, and
Dough: knead at low speed until dough is smooth
2 (0.25-ounce) packages active dry yeast Cinnamon Mixture: and elastic, about 4 minutes. Spray a large
6 tablespoons (72 grams) granulated sugar, 1 cup (185 grams) granulated sugar bowl with cooking spray. Place dough in bowl,
divided 2 tablespoons cinnamon turning to grease top. Cover tightly with plastic
1½ cups warm whole milk (100° to 110°) ½ teaspoon salt wrap, and let rest in refrigerator overnight.
1 large egg 4. For pastry cream: In a medium heavy-
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter, Glaze: bottomed saucepan, bring milk and 5
softened 2½ cups (334 grams) confectioners’ sugar tablespoons granulated sugar to a boil over
5 cups (700 grams) all-purpose flour, 3 to 4 tablespoons whole milk medium-high heat. Remove from heat.
divided 5. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolks,
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten egg, cornstarch, salt, and remaining ¼ cup
granulated sugar until combined. Add a small
Pastry Cream: 1. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted amount of hot milk mixture to egg mixture,
2 cups whole milk with the paddle attachment, combine yeast and whisking constantly to temper mixture.
¼ cup plus 5 tablespoons (112 grams) 3 tablespoons granulated sugar. Add milk, and Keep adding small amounts of milk, whisking
granulated sugar, divided let mixture sit until foamy, about 10 minutes. constantly, until there is an equal amount of
3 large egg yolks 2. Add egg and butter, and beat at medium milk added to egg mixture. Return egg-milk
mixture to saucepan, and heat over medium-
high heat, whisking constantly, until mixture
thickens and bubbles. (Turn heat down to
medium if mixture begins to stick to bottom of
Notes from Kelly:
pan.) Remove from heat; whisk in butter and
Using a serrated knife with a gentle sawing motion ensures
vanilla. Place mixture in a heatproof bowl, and
even, smooth slices. To double the yield (rolls will be smaller), place bowl in a larger bowl filled with crushed
cut 1-inch slices and adjust baking time. ice. Whisk occasionally until mixture cools.
Place plastic wrap directly on surface of pastry
cream, and refrigerate for up to 3 days.
6. For cinnamon mixture: In a small bowl, whisk
together granulated sugar, cinnamon, and salt
until combined.
7. For glaze: In a medium bowl, whisk together
confectioners’ sugar and milk until desired
consistency is reached.
8. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment
paper.
9. To assemble rolls: On a lightly floured surface,
roll dough into an 18x13-inch rectangle. Spread a
thin layer of pastry cream over surface of dough,
leaving a 1-inch border around edges. Sprinkle
cinnamon mixture evenly over pastry cream. Roll
up dough, jelly-roll style, starting with one short
side. Brush edge of dough with beaten egg, and
press to seal. Using a serrated knife, cut dough into
2-inch slices. (Cut uneven ends off before cutting
slices.) Place cut rolls onto prepared pan. Let stand
in a warm, draft-free place (75°) until doubled in
size, about 1 hour. (Rolls should be covered with a
thin dish towel to prevent drying out).
10. Preheat oven to 350°. Bake for 25
minutes, rotating pan halfway through baking
time for even baking. Let cool slightly while
covered with a thin dish towel. Spoon desired
amount of glaze over rolls, and serve slightly
warm for best flavor.
CHOCOLATE-ESPRESSO COOKIES 1. Line an 18x13-inch rimmed baking sheet with whisk to paddle attachment, and beat in frozen
Recipe adapted from Lisa White, Willa Jean parchment or wax paper. chocolate morsels until incorporated.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 5. Pour mixture into prepared pan. Place a
Makes 90 baking powder, and salt; set aside. sheet of parchment or wax paper over surface
3. In a large bowl set over a double boiler, melt of dough, covering completely. Refrigerate
¾ cup (115 grams) all-purpose flour 60% and 70% chocolate morsels. (Water overnight.
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder should not be touching bottom of bowl.) Whisk 6. Preheat oven to 350°. Line several rimmed
1½ teaspoons (4.5 grams) salt in butter; remove bowl from heat, and let baking sheets with parchment paper.
2¼ cups (360 grams) 60% chocolate morsels mixture cool to room temperature. 7. In a large bowl, place confectioners’ sugar.
¾ cup (120 grams) 70% chocolate morsels 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the Using a 1-tablespoon levered scoop, scoop
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened whisk attachment, beat eggs and granulated dough and drop into confectioners’ sugar,
6 large eggs, room temperature sugar at high speed until very thick and pale in several at a time, tossing to coat. Place 2 inches
2 cups (370 grams) granulated sugar color, 6 to 8 minutes. Slowly pour in cooled apart on prepared pans. Bake until puffy and
¼ cup brewed espresso chocolate mixture, scraping down sides of bowl cracked, 13 to 15 minutes. Remove from pans,
1½ teaspoons vanilla extract to ensure even mixing. Reduce mixer speed to and let cool completely on wire racks. Store in
2½ cups (400 grams) semisweet chocolate low, and beat in dry ingredients until combined, an airtight container at room temperature with
morsels, frozen stopping occasionally to scrape down sides of layers separated by wax or parchment paper. b
4 cups (540 grams) confectioners’ sugar bowl. Beat in espresso and vanilla. Change from
winter 2016 78
One-Pound Chocolate Brownies
page 82
Pots de Crème
page 81
Raspberry Brownies
In a medium saucepan, add 1 cup raspberry
liqueur, and cook over high heat until reduced
by ⅓ cup. Remove from heat, and add ⅓ cup
raspberry fruit spread. Let cool completely.
Make brownies as directed above, omitting
orange marmalade and half-and-half, and
adding raspberry mixture to melted chocolate.
(We used Hero premium red raspberry fruit spread
and Chambord liqueur.)
winter 2016 86
Dominican Republic Jamaica
Pastelitos, the de facto national snack, are sold at roadside stands and by Known as meat patties here, the Jamaican variety is the spiciest of the
vendors throughout the country. They resemble a round empanada, but Caribbean, with dialed-up heat thanks to the liberal use of Scotch bonnet
with a more buttery, flaky crust. They tend to be small, so don’t be shy peppers. Look for the characteristically yellow dough, colored with
about doubling (or tripling) down when you order. turmeric, curry, egg yolks, or even food coloring.
Nearly everywhere else in the Caribbean, meat patties are half-moon Not far from Discovery Bay, this family-owned bakery turns out meat
shaped, but in the Dominican Republic, they’re full circles—but tiny. Here patties wrapped in flaky pastry that’s much like a croissant. No matter
at this open-air snack stand, where the lunch line often snakes down the which filling you choose (vegetable, chicken, or beef), the juicy beef stock
block, three pastelitos are considered a serving. They’re also light when it base, made in the style of chili and spiked with Scotch bonnets, keeps the
comes to heat, as locals prefer a milder flavor, and stuffed with chicken, patties moist.
ham, corn, garlic, or just lots of gooey cheese.
JUICI PATTIES, CLARENDON Aruba
22 Main Street., May Pen Called pastechi here, these crescent-shaped snacks in Aruba typically
876-986-4507
have a sweeter dough than their Caribbean cousins.
It might be a chain, but Juici Patties all started with this location in
Clarendon. And their version is so beloved among locals that it’s branched PASTECHI HOUSE, ORANJESTAD
into 62 locations across every major Jamaican city. Each outpost has a Caya G.F. Betico Croes 42
modern, fast-food restaurant feel, but continues to source ingredients 297-582-4242
from farmers in the vicinity of the restaurant. As for what you’ll get: Don’t
expect a lot of meat inside these beef patties—that’s the Jamaican style. Pastries from Pastechi House are so in demand among locals that owner
Instead, the filling is largely onions and Scotch bonnet peppers, sautéed Justo Lopez lovingly refers to his snack stand as a pastechi factory. To
then pureed. guarantee consistency, the sweet dough is sent through a roller to become
as thin as possible yet still able to withstand frying, resulting in a pastechi
MISS SONIA’S, NEGRIL with a little crunch. Grab the gouda variety, a nod to the island’s Dutch
culture, and allow time to linger on the outdoor patio.
Norman Manley Blvd.
876-296-5068
EL GALLO ROJO, SAN NICOLAS
Miss Sonia made a name for herself by offering more filling options than any
Bernhardstraat and Marktstraat
other establishment—ackee (the national fruit of Jamaica), goat, lobster, 297-584-8212
shrimp, crab, plus the expected chicken and beef—and for keeping her
methods simple. Thirty years in, she (and her grandson Brian) still heavily This no-frills bakery and bodega in San Nicolas, Aruba’s cultural capital on
dusts her patties, nearly double the size of the competition’s, in flour before the southeastern end of the island, is popular among locals for its pastechis
dropping them in a pot of oil heated over a wood fire. Plus, there’s a certain fried at precisely 325°F in vegetable oil for 40 seconds. Thanks to a crust
charm to pulling up one of the plastic chairs in the outdoor seating area. that’s lighter on sugar than the typical Aruban variety, these handheld
To find her, look for the hand-painted sign that proudly proclaims “Great feasts come out of the fryer tender and pliable (more sugar means crispier
Tasting Patties” just opposite Negril’s seven-mile stretch of beaches. Or pastechis). b
ask a cab driver to take you—everyone knows Miss Sonia.
Dough:
¼ cup warm water (100° to 110°)
2 teaspoons (6 grams) active dry yeast
½ cup (93 grams) plus 1 teaspoon (4 grams)
granulated sugar, divided
½ cup (115 grams) unsalted butter, softened
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt
2 large eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
4½ cups (630 grams) bread flour
Cherry Filling: Brush over hot rolls. Let cool for 30 minutes. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
1 (12-ounce) bag frozen dark sweet cherries, 9. For icing: In a medium bowl, whisk together baking powder, and remaining ½ cup (92
thawed, juice drained and reserved confectioners’ sugar, milk, and vanilla until grams) sugar. Using a pastry blender or 2 forks,
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar smooth; drizzle over rolls. cut in remaining ¼ cup (57 grams) butter until
1 tablespoon (11 grams) cornstarch mixture is crumbly. Gradually add cream and
⅓ cup cherry preserves STRAWBERRY-APPLE COBBLER vanilla, stirring just until dry ingredients are
Make 6 servings moistened.
Glaze: 4. Divide dough into 5 equal parts, and drop on
1 cup (185 grams) confectioners’ sugar There’s no need to wait for summer to enjoy top of cobbler. Bake until browned and bubbly,
3 tablespoons reserved drained cherry juice cobbler right out of the oven. This strawberry- about 25 minutes, covering with foil to prevent
2 tablespoons (28 grams) butter, melted apple version warms up cold, winter days. excess browning.
When she can’t make it back to the land of the crescent moon, Nejla’s
cooking—both sweet and savory—keeps her connected to her roots. And
over the decades she’s made a name for herself for her dinner parties and
potluck contributions. In Auburn, if Nejla invites you to eat, you simply
don’t say no.
Because she’s been cooking Turkish food out of American grocery stores for
so long, Nejla has taken the guesswork out of the recipes, eliminating hard-
to-find ingredients and adapting to standard American measurements. On
the following pages, you’ll find a few of her favorite sweets, plus one savory
hand pie that’s perfect for breakfast or afternoon tea.
105 bake from scratch
PRO TIP: Make & Freeze
These are best when served
Pogaça warm. They can be prepared
ahead of time and frozen.
NEJLA’S YOGURT DESSERT NOAH’S PUDDING
Makes 20 slices Makes 12 cup-size portions
This dessert is Nejla’s modification to revani, a It’s said that when the flood subsided, Noah
syrupy sponge cake found throughout Turkey. created this dessert by using up all of the grains
She’s omitted the gritty semolina flour found in and dried fruits left on the Ark. Tradition dictates
most revani, to yield a softer, spongier version that that you make large quantities whenever you cook
absorbs more of the sugar syrup. this pudding and share it with family, friends, and
neighbors.
4 cups water
4½ cups (833 grams) sugar, divided 1 cup (180 grams) hulled wheat
½ teaspoon lemon juice ½ cup (92 grams) long-grain rice
3 large eggs 12 cups water
1 cup plain yogurt 1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained
2 cups (280 grams) all-purpose flour 1 (15.5-ounce) can great Northern beans,
1 teaspoon (6 grams) baking soda drained
1 teaspoon (4 grams) baking powder 2½ cups (463 grams) sugar
Garnish: prepared whipped cream, halved fresh 1 cup (158 grams) golden raisins
strawberries, finely ground pistachios 1 cup (138 grams) blanched almonds, 2 cups (280 grams)
chopped all-purpose flour
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 4 cups water, ½ cup (78 grams) chopped dried apricots 2 teaspoons (8 grams)
3½ cups (648 grams) sugar, and lemon juice ⅓ cup (52 grams) chopped dried figs baking powder
to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring 1 tablespoon rose water (optional) 1 teaspoon (3 grams) salt
occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Remove ⅓ cup milk ½ cup (115 grams) butter,
from heat, and let cool completely. 1 cup cold water softened
2. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease a 13x9-inch Garnish: chopped walnuts, pomegranate seeds, 1¼ cups (281 grams) cream
baking pan. fresh figs cheese, softened and divided
3. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs and 1 whole egg plus 1 egg, separated
remaining 1 cup (185 grams) sugar; add yogurt. 1. Soak wheat and rice overnight. ½ cup (110 grams) feta cheese,
4. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking 2. In a large stockpot, combine wheat, rice, and crumbled
soda, and baking powder; add to egg mixture, 12 cups water. Cook over medium heat until ½ cup parsley, finely chopped
and beat with a mixer at medium speed until tender, about 1 hour. Garnish: sesame seeds
fully incorporated. Pour batter into prepared 3. Remove skin from chickpeas by rubbing in
pan (smoothing top if necessary). Bake until your hands; discard skin. Add chickpeas and 1. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking
a wooden pick inserted in center comes out beans to pot. Simmer for 30 minutes. powder, and salt. Make a well in dry ingredients,
clean, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven, 4. Stir in sugar; add raisins, almonds, apricots, and add butter, 1 cup (226 grams) cream
and let cool for 5 minutes. figs, and rose water. Add milk, and simmer for 5 cheese, 1 whole egg, and 1 egg white. Mix
5. Cut cake into 2-inch squares. Place squares to 10 minutes. ingredients with your hands to make a soft
on 2 rimmed baking sheets. Spread squares 5. Stir in 1 cup cold water, and remove from dough. Dough should not stick to hands.
out on pans, allowing plenty of space between heat. Pour mixture into individual bowls. Pudding Sprinkle with additional flour if too sticky.
squares. Pour half of cooled syrup over each will thicken as it cools. Garnish with walnuts, Cover bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand for
pan of cake squares. (Both cake and syrup pomegranate seeds, and figs, if desired. 20 minutes.
should still be warm, but not hot.) The cake will 2. Preheat oven to 350°. Grease 2 baking
soak up the liquid, and each square needs room POĞAÇA sheets.
to expand. Makes 16 3. In a medium bowl, stir together feta, parsley,
6. Let sit for 1 hour; turn squares upside down. and remaining ¼ cup (55 grams) cream cheese.
Leave them on pans until most of the syrup has Pronounced po-atcha. These half-moon shaped 4. Shape dough into 16 (40-ounce) balls.
been absorbed. Then flip the squares back up. hand pies are typically stuffed with feta and Press each ball into a circle about 3 inches in
7. Garnish with whipped cream, fresh parsley and served at breakfast or tea time. Turks diameter. Put a small amount of cheese filling
strawberries, and finely ground pistachios, if love tea—or çay (pronounced chai)—and no on one half of each circle, and fold other half
desired. matter where you go, whether buying carpets in over to cover.
a store or sitting in someone’s home, you will be 5. Place on prepared pans. Brush tops with egg
offered a small glass of Turkish çay. These savory yolk. Sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake until
bites are the perfect accompaniment. tops are golden brown, about 30 minutes.
During the doldrums of winter, when the post-Christmas hangover of good cheer starts to
subside, people routinely issue invitations to pop around for a slice of galette des rois and a glass
of cider or sweet white wine. Less involved than a dinner party, more casual than cocktails, the
often impromptu nature of this January ritual coaxes a familial vibe out of an often formal society.
Though the puff pastry version with its creamy almond filling is the most common, southern
France tends to celebrate with a brioche cake flavored with the essence of orange flower, shaped
into a crown, and topped with red fruits and sugar.
Tradition dictates that a small fève, or bean, is baked within the cake. And it is customary to cut
the galette into precisely enough pieces for everyone gathered to have a slice, plus one more. That
extra piece, known as the “part du pauvre,” should go to the first poor person who knocks on the
door—a nod to the giving spirit of the kings. These days, the bean has mostly been replaced by a
small porcelain figurine, and whoever finds it is named king (or queen) for the day—assuming
they don’t end up with a different sort of crown by biting too hastily. For children, finding the fève
ranks right up there with winning the lottery. It grants adults the privilege of buying (or making)
the next galette, like a sugar-fueled game of tag, with cakes. It’s said that, in the royal French court,
if a lady found the fève, she was named queen of France for the day and could ask the king to
grant her a special wish. Supposedly Louis XIV, the Sun King, put an end to that. That’s
probably a good thing. These days, bakers assemble each year to create a massive
galette (enough to feed 150 people) at the Élysée Palace. But the baker and
pastry chef are forbidden from putting a fève into the cake. After all,
you can’t have a king in the presidential palace of the Republic.
Certainly not one crowned by letting them eat cake. b
our obsession
E Where to Find It
The Little Tart Bakeshop b. patisserie Les Madeleines
Atlanta, GA San Francisco, CA Salt Lake City, UT
French-inspired bakery in Atlanta’s Grant Lower Pacific Heights shop where Belinda Open since 2003, the first bakery west of
Park neighborhood, where the flaky Leong has developed a cult following for her the Mississippi to sell the Breton pastry.
kouign amann, burnished with sugar, pairs kouign amann, from the traditional Breton Here, chef Romina Rasmussen is known
perfectly with a pour-over coffee from variety to her vibrant twists (pineapple-pink for her touch, which yields an airy yet
Octane, a local roaster that shares space peppercorn, chocolate-hazelnut, trio of crunchy variety.
with the Little Tart. seasonal fruits). lesmadeleines.com
littletartatl.com bpatisserie.com
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