1KD-FTV

Common Rail Diesel Injector

to suit Prado, Hilux, HiAce
Installation Manual

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 COMMON RAIL DENSO DIESEL INJECTOR

ENGINE INSTALL MANUAL 1KD-FTV

1.1 Disassemble: 4

1.2 Pre-assembly Preparation 25

1.3 Assembly 29
Disassemble: 1.1

Lift Bonnet

Firs t step, we need to find the bonnet release latch in the driver's footwell, at the bottom of the
Das h.

Removal of Intercooler Cover

Next s tep, you need to take your 10m m Socket, and undo the s m all bolts holding down this cover

Removal of the Intercooler Cover

Once all the bolts are undone, s imply lift the cover off. It should com e VERY easily. If it does not,
make sure you have all the bolts out.

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 Removal of Intercooler

Next step, we need to remove the intercooler, as the injectors are situated underneath. To do this ,
you will need to s tart by loosening off this hose clam p; You will also need to remove two sensors :

Removal of Intercooler

Second Sensor as seen from a different view

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 Removal of Intercooler

Lastly for the engine side of the intercooler, we need to remove the vacuum / boost tube.

Removal of Intercooler

Next step, jus t above the turbocharger, you will see this pipe which will have these two
hose clamps attached.

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 Removal of Intercooler

Next, we jus t need to undo the Bolts holding the intercooler in place;

Removal of Intercooler

Now, the only thing left holding the intercooler in place is the pipes that are only loosely
connected. To remove, firs t pull the passenger side back to you, rotating the intercooler around
the intercooler inlet pipe. Once the intercooler outlet is free, lift the Inlet side to completely remove

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the intercooler.

Unplugging Injectors

Now, your vehicle should look like s o. From here, the next step is to remove the injector plugs
from the injectors .
*** Pleas e note, this vehicle has a Chip fitted, hence there are 8 plugs visible. Chip or no chip, you
only need to be concerned with the plugs that are physically on the injectors .

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 Removal of injector harness rail

Now the injectors are unplugged, we need to remove the harness rail connected to the Tappet
cover

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 Unplug injector Harness - sensor

Next, we need to unplug the sensor that is attached to the injector harness .

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 Injector Supply Pipes Removal

After you've undone the sensor and moved the Injector harness out of the way (along the fire wall
is a good place) next we need to undo the injector supply pipes .

Injector Pipes Removal

Next you will need to s imply clear the injector pipe nuts from their seal by pulling them back (by
hand) s o that they are fully visible.

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 Injector Pipe removal

Next we need to free the pipes up; to do this , we need to loosen these brackets . There's a
second bracket obscured in the back.

Injector Pipe removal

Lastly, to loosen the injector pipes , we need to undo the 'other' (rail) end of the pipe. In this photo
you can see where the front two pipes connect to the rail. Obviously, there are another two further
back that will also need to be loosened.

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 Injector pipe removal

Here you can now see that we are able to pull back on the pipes and have enough clearance that
it will clear the tappet assembly. This is as far as we need to go, if you are planning to reuse the
old injector lines .
*** IT'S EXTREMELY important that you do not 'flex' or 'bend' these pipes . Otherwise replacement
really would be necessary.

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 Tappet Cover Removal

Next step is to remove the tappet cover. Firstly, we need to remove the injector inlet cups. To do
this, you will notice a s m all cut-out (usually at the top) where you will be able to GENTLY put the
end of a flat blade Screw Driver. Once this is done, you will be able to twist the s crew driver and
then 'pop' these cups out.

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 Tappet cover removal

Next step is to unscrew all of the bolts that are holding the tappet cover down. There are m ore
than are visible in this photo.

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 Tappet Cover Removal

Next step is to disconnect the crank case breather pipe.

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 Tappet Cover Removal

Next is to physically remove the tappet cover. To do this, firs t you need to lift the tappet cover over
the injector tops , and then 's lide' it out towards the driver's side.

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 Injector Removal

Firs t step of the injector removal is to loosen and remove the bolts that are in the leak off rail to the
injector.

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 Leak off bolt removal

This is what the Leakoff bolt and was her should look like. It is possible to re-us e the alloy one like
shown (limited number of times ), but the copper ones should be replaced every time.

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 Leak off rail loosening

Las t step is to loosen the leak off rail main fitting bolt at the back of the head, s lightly off to the
passenger side of the car. It does not need to be removed, jus t loosened.

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 Leak off rail Loosened

Now you should be able to 's wing' the leak off rail out and away from the injectors .

Injector Removal

Next step is to loosen the stretch bolt that is holding the injector clam p down plate. Obviously, you
will need to do the same for all injectors.
*** Make sure that you know which clam p down plate goes to which cylinder. In some vehicles ,

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cylinder 1 is different to the rest, but if you take the approach that everything goes back to the
s am e location, you shouldn't have a problem .

Clamp Down Plates + Stretch Bolts

This is what the Stretch bolts and clam p down plates should look like.

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 Injector Removal

Next step is to remove the injectors. We usually jus t put a s crew driver between the injector inlet
and the CAST FINISHED part of the cam (directly underneath) and then jus t lightly and carefully
lever the injector out. If they are very hard to move, you may need to call a professional with an
injector puller - but most times , it's not required.

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 Injectors are now out

Now the injectors are out, you need to take some pre-cautionary measures . You have your
cylinder open now, s o it's best (especially if you're leaving it alone for some time) to put
something over the head to s top (as best as you can) any foreign material getting into the engine.
Disassembly is now complete.

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Pre-assembly Preparation

Cleaning the Injector Seats

As m any would know, leaking injector Seats / Seals can put oil down into the cylinder and in some
cases , cause significant engine dam age. If this was a problem for you, you would have noticed
that the injector would have been hard to remove, and covered in carbon quite a way up the
injector.
Either way, for the new injector to seal, it m us t be clean, flat and free of contamination. Sometimes,
the s eat will need to be re-cut with a surface finishing tool (usually only if previously been leaking).
Our process is that we norm ally inspect the s eat for damage; if ok, clean the area with Brake
clean and com pressed air. In the above photo, you can see the technician cleaning the
injector s eat with com pressed air.

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 Checking old Injectors

Here, you m ay notice that the injectors are quite clean from the nozzle cap-nut up, which means
these seals were sealing well. Anyway, with this step, we need to make sure that both the old O
Ring and Old was her are s till there. Although we are changing these, we need to make sure
they are not s till in the engine.
If this were to occur, we'd have placed two seals , one on top of the other, the injector would then
be s praying directly into the piston (and not the combustion chamber) which will cause engine
dam age (cracked piston or similar).

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 Checking the Seats

Sometimes it requires you to be a little creative when trying to visibly check the s eats .

Cleanliness = Godliness

The main spindle within these injectors only has around 1 micron of clearance. Therefore, we
need to be ABSOLUTELY certain that everything is perfectly clean before it is bolted up, otherwise
you are VERY quickly going to have problems . A favourite of ours is to make sure that you blow the

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fuel lines back through to make sure that they have no Dus t / oil or anything in them before bolting
them up to the injector. But being clean relates to everything, from the moment you break the
seals on the injectors until they are fitted, everything needs to be spotless .

Injector Preparation

Getting the injectors ready:

1 - Make sure you have the O'Rings and Was hers on each of the injectors
2 - Make sure the O'rings have some rubber grease on them (we us e Molykote)
3 - We also us e a s m all amount of Molykote on the was her / seal on the bottom jus t to hold it in
place when we lower the injector into the Cylinder Head.
4 - It's also a good idea to have the coding tags already assigned to a cylinder with the cylinder
number written on it. That way you lower the chances of forgetting which is which.

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Assembly

Injector Insertion

Next we need to get the injectors back in to the head.

*** Make sure you have followed the instructions in the pre-assembly section firs t ***

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 Leak off rail

Before we 'bolt down' the injector, it's important that we get the leak off rail on firs t. It's VERY
important that the leak off rail is correctly aligned with the injector, and the injector hold down
clamps have no 'locator' on them . So we put the rail bolts (with washers ) on firs t, do them up to
around 5Nm at firs t, and then we will clam p the injectors down. This will locate the injectors and
minimise the potential for leaks .

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 Clamp Down Brackets

Next we need to ins tall our clam p-down brackets. Making sure that they are properly located on
the front bolt as shown and sitting correctly on the 'shoulder' of the injector.

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 Torquing down the clamp plates

Next step is to Torque down the clam p plates . Quite a simple task, but do be aware that they are
stretch bolts , and therefore they will turn further than you m ay think. Tightening Torque is 25Nm .

Torquing the Leak Off Rail

These Banjo Bolts are then torqued down the 25Nm , the s am e as the injector hold down clamps .

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 Torquing the Leak Off Rail

Lastly, we need to make sure that we also tighten up the main leak off bolt at the back on the
passenger's side.

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 Tappet Cover Re-fit

Now we can reins tall the tappet cover. Make sure that the seal on the bottom is s till in its place
and intact. Then simply slide it across to the passenger side and then lower it over the injector
tops , the reverse action to the way it cam e out.

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 Tappet Cover installation

Next we need to reins tall all the tappet cover bolts. Also, Make sure you reconnect the Crank
Case Breather (2).

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 Reinstall Injector Inlet Cups

Next step, reins tall each of the injector inlet cups . A good idea would be to put that s m all cut out
section at the top again s o it's easy to remove again in the future should you or anyone else have
to.

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 Injector Pipe Install

Next you will need to connect the injector pipes up to the inlet of the injector.
***We are not tightening them up at this stage, s o finger tighten them up only.

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 Injector pipe install Brackets

Now we need to retighten the injector pipe supporting brackets, there are two. The second is back
towards the fire wall and out of view.

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 Injector Pipe Install

Lastly, we will need to tighten up the injector pipes on the injector inlet. For those not familiar with
injection lines , us e a Torque wrench. Tightening torque would be no m ore than 25Nm .

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 Injector Loom Re-install

Next is to plug back in all of the injector Loom . It's only the 4 injector plugs and the one that
connects to the intake.

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 Injector Loom Support Bracket

Next is to bolt down the injector loom support bracket.

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 Intercooler Re-installation

Next is the intercooler reinstallation. As with everything else, it is the reverse action of the
disassembly, s o in this case, connect the inlet firs t by moving the intercooler down, and then
connect the outlet by rotating the intercooler backwards .

Intercooler Install

Next step is to Bolt the intercooler back in.

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 Intercooler Install

Next is to reconnect all the sensors . There are 2 + the boos t signal.

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 Intercooler Install

Next s tep is to Tighten up the hose clamps.. The photo above is for the Intercooler outlet, but you
will also have to tighten up the intercooler inlet from the Turbo.

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 Intercooler Cover Install

Next you need to reins tall the intercooler cover. Simply place it in its home position and then
tighten all the bolts .

DONE = Engine Start

Next we need to s tart the engine. As we've drained a lot of fuel from the injectors + lines + rail, it
will take a little while to bleed the air from the system. In most cases the engine will s tart in
around 10 seconds of cranking +/- 5 seconds .

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 Injector Pipe Install

Next we are going to tighten up the injector pipes on to the rail. These can be tightened up fully.

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