Professional Documents
Culture Documents
LP Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands (8th Edition)
LP Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands (8th Edition)
Contents
On the Road 4 Central, Oro &
Milne Bay Provinces 85
Highlights 5 CENTRAL PROVINCE 88
Hiritano Highway 89
Magi Highway 90
Destination Goilala Region 90
Papua New Guinea KOKODA TRACK 91
& Solomon Islands 12 Planning 91
Getting to & from the Trek 95
The Trek 96
Getting Started 15 Kokoda Track 97
Kokoda 105
Itineraries 19 ORO PROVINCE
Popondetta
105
105
Oro Bay 107
History 22 Tufi
Around Tufi
107
108
MILNE BAY PROVINCE 109
The Culture 33 Alotau
Around Alotau
109
113
North Coast 114
Environment 48 Samarai Island
Near Samarai Island
115
116
D’entrecasteaux Islands 116
Trobriand Islands 118
Diving in Louisade Archipelago 123
Papua New Guinea
& Solomon Islands 55 Morobe & Madang
Provinces 124
Food & Drink 64 History 125
Geography & Climate 125
Culture 127
Port Moresby 68 MOROBE PROVINCE 127
Orientation 69 Lae 128
Huon Gulf Coast 135
Information 70
Finschhafen Area 138
Dangers & Annoyances 72 Wau & Bulolo 139
Sights 73 Menyamya & Aseki 140
Activities 76 MADANG PROVINCE 140
Tours 76 Madang 140
Festivals & Events 76 Around Madang 145
Sleeping 78 North Coast Highway 146
Eating & Drinking 79 Inland 149
South of Madang 149
Entertainment 80
Islands 150
Shopping 81
Getting There & Away 81
Getting Around 82 The Highlands 152
AROUND PORT MORESBY 83 EASTERN HIGHLANDS
Sogeri Road 83 PROVINCE 156
Hiritano Highway 84 Goroka 156
10 CONTENTS
Around Goroka
Kainantu
159
160
Island Provinces 209 Embassies & Consulates
Festivals & Events
293
294
NEW BRITAIN 212
Around Kainantu 161 Food 294
East New Britain Province 213
SIMBU PROVINCE 161 Gay & Lesbian Travellers 294
West New Britain Province 225
Kundiawa 161 Holidays 295
NEW IRELAND PROVINCE 227
Mt Wilhelm 162 Insurance 295
Kavieng 229
Walking to Madang 163 Internet Access 295
Lavongai (New Hanover)
WESTERN HIGHLANDS & East Islands 234 Legal Matters 295
PROVINCE 163 Maps 296
Mt Hagen 164 East Coast 235
West Coast 237 Money 296
Wahgi Valley 168 Photography 297
ENGA PROVINCE 168 Lelet Plateau 237
The South 238 Post 298
Wabag 168 Shopping 298
Around Wabag 169 Eastern Island Groups 238
MANUS PROVINCE 238 Solo Travellers 299
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS Telephone & Fax 300
PROVINCE 169 Manus &
Mendi 170 Los Negros Islands 239 Time 301
Ialibu 171 Other Islands 240 Toilets 301
Lake Kutubu 172 NORTH SOLOMONS Tourist Information 301
PROVINCE 240 Travellers with
Kantobo 172 Buka Island 242 Disabilities 301
Mt Bosavi 172 Bougainville 243 Visas 302
Tari 173 Volunteering 303
Kopiago to
Oksapmin 174 Solomon Islands 246 Women Travellers
Work
304
305
GUADALCANAL 247
The Sepik 175 Honiara
Around Honiara
247
258 Transport 306
EAST SEPIK PROVINCE 178
Eastern Guadalcanal 260 GETTING THERE
Wewak 179 & AWAY 306
Weathercoast 261
Around Wewak 183
CENTRAL PROVINCE 261 Entering the Region 306
Maprik Area 184
Nggela Islands 261 Air 306
SANDAUN PROVINCE 185
Savo 262 Land 310
Vanimo 185
Russell Islands 263 Sea 311
Around Vanimo 187
WESTERN PROVINCE 263 Tours 311
Aitape 187
West New Georgia 263 GETTING AROUND 312
Telefomin 188
Marovo Lagoon 266 Air 312
Oksapmin 188
Ghizo Island 270 Bicycle 315
THE SEPIK
& ITS TRIBUTARIES 188 Islands Around Ghizo 274 Boat 315
Travel on the MALAITA PROVINCE 274 Car & Motorcycle 317
Sepik 191 Malaita Island 274 Hitching 318
Upper Sepik 193 RENNELL & BELLONA Local Transport
Middle Sepik 194 PROVINCE 279 in Urban Areas 318
Lower Sepik 197 Rennell 279 PMV 318
Tributaries & Lakes 198 Bellona 281 Tours 319
Walking 319
IN PNG
& SOLOMON ISLANDS 321 Language 327 Index 340
Availability & Cost of
Health Care
Infectious Diseases
321
322
Glossary 331 GreenDex 348
Traveller’s Diarrhoea 323
Environmental The Authors 333 World Time Zones 350
Hazards 324
Traditional
Medicine 326 Behind the Scenes 335 Map Legend 352
The Highlands
pp154-5
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© Lonely Planet Publications
12 D E S T I N AT I O N PA P UA N E W G U I N E A & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S 13
You can buy, download and
print individual chapters from
this guidebook. A treaty was signed on 30 June 2004 between PNG and Australia to imple-
Papua New Guinea for PNG when the PNG Supreme Court ruled on 13 May 2005 in favour of
Morobe Governor Luther Wenge’s challenge to the operation. Under the
terms of the ECP, Australian police and officials were to have immunity
& Solomon Islands against prosecution under PNG law. Wenge successfully argued that this
provision was unconstitutional and the ECP fell over, but there are currently
about 40 Australian civilians deployed in PNG in advisory roles. This new,
In both Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands, you should not judge hands-on approach is a bold experiment under Australia’s new cooperative
the country by its capital. Port Moresby has a rotten international reputation intervention policy, which led to the (so far) successful Regional Assistance
and despite complaints from PNG politicians that this is the fault of the media, Mission to Solomon Islands (RAMSI). But some – including the enigmatic
unsavoury situations continue. Port Moresby and Honiara are ringed with ugly Solomons prime minister Manasseh Sogavare – decry this interventionism
urban squatter settlements, and neither is indicative of the incredible natural as outright Australian neo-colonialism.
beauty and warm Melanesian generosity to be found in the provinces. In the July 2007 election ‘Grand Chief’ Sir Michael Somare became the
Yet even in the ugliest of these squatter settlements people grow flowers – first prime minister to serve a full term and then be re-elected. After the
Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders have a powerful connection to 2002 national elections saw widespread violence in the Highlands, many
the soil and seem able to grow almost anything, as displayed by the patchwork were expecting trouble, but the 2007 election was remarkably peaceful and
of gardens on the barren hills around their capital cities. Despite the urban trouble-free. This was PNG’s first election using a limited preferential voting
drift, people retain strong links to their clan and village. Hard-nosed econo- system and had the unexpected results of tipping out former prime ministers
mists regard the defence of traditional ‘land rights’ as a major impediment Rabbi Namaliu and Pius Wingti – voters were used to the first-past-the-post
to economic progress, and both countries are looking at customary land electoral system and didn’t realise the importance of allocating their prefer-
reform as a way to find a middle ground between the rights of traditional ences. Another surprise was the re-emergence of former prime minister
land-holders and development. However, in these lands where gardening is Julius Chan as the minister for New Ireland Provincial. Chan had resigned
FAST FACTS – next to godliness, few people go hungry and villagers with no cash income in disgrace in 1997 over the scandalous Sandline Affair (see p241).
PNG at all can still feed themselves. The wantok system, where clanspeople look Somare was returned to power with trouble at home and a telecommuni-
after each other, is both a blessing and a curse. cations industry in disarray (see p300), and trouble abroad with continuing
Population: 6.25 million
PNG’s economy relies upon huge resource projects. First it was the fallout from the Moti Affair (see p31). Corruption remains a major problem
GDP: US$4.3 billion Bougainville copper mine, majority-owned by Australia’s CRA (Conzinc in the country’s politics and almost everyone you speak to – from grassroots
GDP growth: 4.5% Riotinto of Australia) with a 19% PNG government shareholding. But that to the educated elite – will bemoan the state of representative democracy
Inflation: 4.3%
closed after plunging Bougainville into a messy 10-year secessionist war. in PNG.
FAST FACTS –
The Ok Tedi copper mine followed, built in the geologically unstable Star In the Solomon Islands, the RAMSI deployment has been in its peace-
Languages spoken: 820 SOLOMON
Mountains where constructing a waste dam was considered so risky that the keeping role since mid-2003 with seemingly no end in sight. The ethnic ten-
ISLANDS
Languages spoken per waste was instead dumped into the Fly River. Other big projects – Porgera sion that led to the 2000 coup that ousted then-prime minister Bartholomew
adult: 3 and Lihir gold mines and the Kutubu oilfields – have provided sorely needed Ulufa’alu (who died in 2007) seems to have settled dramatically – so much Population: 534,000
Land border with export revenue. China could be the next big mining investor. PNG was des- so that the first post-coup national elections were held in April 2006. The GDP: US$394 million
Indonesia: 820km perately hoping a gas pipeline to Queensland would be its economic saviour, election of controversial Snyder Rini as prime minister resulted in two days of Languages spoken: 70
but the project was scrapped in 2006 when developers Exxon Mobil and rioting and anarchy in the streets of Honiara, in which the historic Chinatown
Parliamentary political Oil Search decided it was too expensive. Another proposed pipeline from and huge Pacific Casino Hotel were razed. Australia flew in reinforcements People per telephone: 79
parties: 45 Western Province gas fields to Gove in the Northern Territory might yet go for the RAMSI personnel. Allegations were made that Rini used bribe-money Number of airports: 33
Indigenous counting ahead – Canada’s Alcan and British Rift Oil are partners in this project. But from Asian business interests to secure the votes of MPs. To the people on American and Japanese
systems: More than 50 these huge projects employ relatively few locals and most families instead the street, Rini symbolised everything that was corrupt about Solomons warships sunk in Iron
(one is based on joints of survive on growing cash-crops – coffee, cocoa, copra and oil palm. The price politics and, after a no-confidence vote, he resigned just eight days after the Bottom Sound: 67
the body and the nose) for PNG vanilla, which was making growers rich just a few years ago, has election. The subsequent ascension of Manasseh Sogavare as prime minister
fallen through the floor. immediately brought calm to the Solomons capital. Number of islands in the
Number of airports: 492 Solomons group: 992
PNG’s biggest problem is neither its crime nor corruption but a dysfunc- The Solomons is just one of a handful of countries that recognises Taiwan
tional political system. The Australian-inherited Westminster system cannot as an independent country, and Taiwanese largesse has been lining the Percentage of land that is
cope with a bewildering political paradigm where MPs represent 820 languages pockets of Solomons’ members of parliament for years. Some among the cultivable: 30%
and have little or no allegiance to their political party. The 109 members are Asian community in the Solomon Islands were said to have bribed their Annual rainfall on
essentially free agents who regularly cross the floor to vote with the opposi- way to residency and into the country’s sphere of influence. Thus the Guadalcanal’s Weather-
tion, resulting in 109 cross-purposes. As a consequence, until the most recent resentment of the Chinese community that had been bubbling away for coast: 12m!
election in 2007, no prime minister in the 32 years of independence (since a long time exploded into violence and anarchy, and terrorised many
1975) had served a full, five-year term without being brought down in a no- honest long-term Asian expatriates to the point where they finally fled the
confidence vote – survival, not policy, tends to be the focus of PNG politics. Solomons for good.
© Lonely Planet Publications
14 D E S T I N AT I O N PA P UA N E W G U I N E A & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S
Getting Started
Travelling in PNG and the Solomon Islands can be challenging. With almost no
tourism infrastructure and limited information available in books and on web-
sites, it can feel like you’re stepping into the great unknown. But this is exactly
why travellers find these places so compelling. Nothing is contrived for tourists
and every experience is authentic. The striking natural beauty and myriad
complex cultures offer some riveting and truly life-affirming experiences.
WHEN TO GO
PNG and the Solomons have some of the most variable climates on earth,
See Climate Charts (p290)
which can confound the best of travel planning. The wet season is roughly from
for more information.
December to March and the dry is from May to October. April and November
are anyone’s guess. There are, however, plenty of exceptions to this pattern (Lae
and Alotau are wet when everywhere else is dry); see the regional chapters for
details. The months from June to September are cooler, drier and better to visit
PNG and the Solomons, but it’s generally hot and humid year-round.
It’s worth scheduling your trip around a festival or event (p294), such
as one of the unforgettable cultural shows that are held between July and
October. If you plan on trekking (p288), diving (p286), surfing (p287) or
looking for that elusive bird, see the relevant activities information in this
book in each region about the best times to go.
There are no high or low tourist seasons in PNG and the Solomons, but
at Christmas, Easter and other major holidays (p295), hotels can fill up, and
international flights can be hard to book. You’ll need to book your accommo-
dation (p282) ahead if you’re in a town during one of the cultural shows.
Valid travel insurance, noting the emergency phone and policy numbers (p295)
Anti-malarial prophylactics (p323) and a basic first-aid kit
Insect repellent, hat and sunscreen
Good footwear, lightweight trousers and a long-sleeved shirt for protection against sunburn
and natnats (mosquitoes)
Poncho-style raincoat that covers your backpack and opens into a groundsheet
Snorkel, mask, rash vest and reef shoes, and C-card and logbook if you’re a diver
Swiss Army Knife with scissors and can opener, tin plate and camping cutlery set
A torch (flashlight) for late-night toilet expeditions (vital in a village)
A sleeping sheet, mosquito net (only the box-style type) and inflatable hiker’s sleeping mat if
you’re sleeping rough (in villages)
Bottle of sweet-chilli sauce (or other condiments) to spice up the village diet
Books (the bookshops are crap) for village kids
A sweater if you’re going to the Highlands
Sense of humour and a deep well of patience – your best plans will go awry at some point.
16 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 17
In do ne sia
UA
doing anything in PNG is unreasonably high. Loan interest rates have fallen NEW Na ur u
from over 20% in recent years, but they remain high and repayment periods
are short. Virtually everything is imported and there’s little competition
despite the usual free-market forces.
For the traveller, this means sleeping, eating and getting around are all
TOP 10 G U IN E A
SOLOMO
relatively expensive. But the biggest single factor is that fact that getting BEST BOOKS & FILMS
anywhere within PNG and the Solomons usually means flying and there the Many books and films on the region have a distinctly anthropological slant because the truth
HOW MUCH costs add up rapidly. Backpackers are doing well if they can get by on less about PNG and Solomon Islands cultures is often stranger than fiction. The films are hard to find;
PNG? than K178 (US$60) per day, staying in guesthouses, self-catering and eating try www.roninfilms.com.au, or see p42.
in cheap restaurants and at kai bars (cheap, takeaway food bars). Budget any
Midrange hotel room flights on top of that. If you’re staying in good hotels and resorts, eating in the 1 Throwim Way Leg (1998), written by Tim 6 In a Savage Land (1999), directed by Bill
K100-400 better restaurants, with activities and flights, the sky is the limit, but figure Flannery Bennett
1hr internet access on about K890 (US$300) per day. There are plenty of midrange options and 2 Papua New Guinea: People, Politics, and 7 First Contact (1983), directed by Bob
K15-35 couples or pairs pay less per person – most midrange solo travellers staying History Since 1975 (2000), written by Sean Connolly & Robin Anderson
Bilum (string bag) K50 in the main towns can expect to spend about US$100 per day. However, Dorney
your expenses plummet if you get off the beaten track. Wandering off to 8 The Shark Callers of Kontu (1987), directed
Meal in a cheap 3 Happy Isles of Oceania (1992), written by by Dennis O’Rourke
stay in the villages is not only a great way to see the country and witness the
restaurant K18 Paul Theroux
culture, it’s also inexpensive: food and lodging will cost you about K50 per 9 Betelnut Bisnis (2004), directed by Chris
Bekim moni (‘payback’ or night, often less (p284). The steady devaluation of both the kina in PNG and 4 Visitants (1979), written by Randolph Stow Owen
compensation money) for the Solomon Islands dollar have made travelling slightly cheaper in recent
5 Argonauts of the Western Pacific (1922), 10 Robinson Crusoe (1996), directed by Daniel
running over a dog K250- years. But tourism facilities tend to use imported goods.
written by Bronislaw Malinowski Defoe
14,000 depending on Happily, travelling in the Solomon Islands is a little less expensive than
your negotiating skills PNG, with cheaper transport, hotels and food.
OUR FAVOURITE TREKS
TRAVEL LITERATURE There are dozens of challenging treks in Papua New Guinea and the Solomons. Here are a few
Michael Moran’s excellent Beyond the Coral Sea sees the author retrace the of our favourites.
steps of some of the colourful characters and empire-builders who were so
influential in forming the country you see today. 1 Kokoda Track (PNG; p91) 6 Walking New Ireland’s remote west coast
Solomon Time: An Unlikely Quest in the South Pacific, by Will Randall, road (PNG; p237)
is an unassuming and well-written tale of a naive Englishman who finds 2 Mt Wilhelm trek (PNG; p162)
himself on a remote Solomons island, breeding chickens. 3 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Area 7 Kopiago to Oksapmin (PNG; p174)
Four Corners: Into the Heart of New Guinea, by Kira Salak, retraces the trek (PNG; p160) 8 Mt Wilhelm to Madang trek (PNG; p163)
1927 journey of British explorer Ivan Champion by foot and canoe, and 4 Black Cat Track (PNG; p137) 9 Wedau to Alotau on the northeastern tip of
his meetings with missionaries, cannibals and incredible landscapes. the PNG mainland (PNG; p114)
Legendary swashbuckler Errol Flynn’s autobiography, My Wicked, 5 Climbing up Kombiu (Mt Mother) volcano
HOW MUCH (PNG; p223) 10 Blazing a trail over Guadalcanal’s mountain-
SOLOMON
Wicked Ways, covers the actor’s six formative years in New Guinea. It’s
engaging and relevant, and almost single-handedly informed the world- ous interior from the north coast to the wild
ISLANDS? and undeveloped Weathercoast (SI; p261)
view of New Guinea at the time.
Midrange hotel room Into the Crocodile Nest keeps you turning the pages as author and
S$200-400 masochist-traveller Benedict Allen becomes the first white man initiated
1hr internet access into an obscure crocodile cult on the Sepik River.
S$15 Mister Pip, by New Zealander Lloyd Jones, was shortlisted for the 2007 TOP DIY CULTURAL EXPERIENCES
Booker Prize. It tells the story of an inspirational white schoolteacher in The Melanesian experience can be as culturally rich as you allow it to be. Go ahead and try:
Meal in a cheap
restaurant S$25 Bougainville in the 1990s during the blockade and war.
1 Learning new dance steps at a Highland 6 Setting a fish trap in the Sepik River
Bekim moni (‘payback’ or singsing (celebratory festival/dance) 7 Eating freshly slaughtered pig at a village
compensation money) INTERNET RESOURCES 2 Watching the Asaro mud men celebration
for running over a dog There isn’t a vast array of websites about PNG and the Solomons, but new
S$500-8000s ones are appearing and existing sites are improving. Some worth looking 3 Playing garamuts (a hollowed log) and 8 Learning to prepare sago and a mumu
at before you leave: kundu (hour-glassed shaped, lizard-skin) (underground oven)
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) The Thorn Tree bulletin board and Postcards have invalu- drums, nose flutes and jew’s-harps 9 Sleeping in a haus tambaran (spirit house)
able up-to-date information and tips. 4 Chewing betel nut 10 Commissioning or buying a piece from a
National (www.thenational.com.pg) Website of the daily National newspaper.
5 Drinking the juice of a green coconut Sepik master carver
PNG Buai (www.pngbuai.com) The clever acronym stands for PNG Books, Useful Articles and
Information. It’s a valuable source for each topic.
© Lonely Planet Publications
18 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com
PNG Business Directory (www.pngbd.com) PNG’s ‘business and tourism’ website can be
awkward to navigate, but it has handy information and plenty of photos.
PNG Gossip Newsletter (www.png-gossip.com) Primarily a bulletin-board, this site also has
good links and posts some interesting news items.
PNG Tourism (www.png-tourism.com) This new website is an initiative of the PNG Tourism
Promotion Authority. It has useful information and links to all the major inbound tour companies.
It’s the best place to start when researching your trip.
PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (www.pngtourism.org.pg) The official website of PNG’s
peak tourism body. Has good links.
Post Courier (www.postcourier.com.pg) Website of the Post Courier newspaper that provides
updates of the daily news.
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (www.visitsolomons.com.sb) Travel information and visas.
Solomon Star (www.solomonstarnews.com) The Solomons’ daily newspaper also publishes on
the web.
© Lonely Planet Publications
19
Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTE
MAINLAND ODYSSEY Two to Three Weeks / Port Moresby to Madang
From Port Moresby (p68), fly to sleepy Alotau (p109) at the eastern end of This tour of
the mainland. Take a boat out to the colonial-era capital of Samarai Island mainland PNG
(p115) before returning via historic Kwato Island (p116). Fly to Lae (p128)
takes in the coast,
and check out the Rainforest Habitat (p129) and Salamaua (p136). Take a bus
up the Highlands Hwy to Goroka (p156) and see the Goroka Show (p158), or the Highlands and
visit the Asaro mud men (p159). the Sepik. It’s busy,
Back on the bus, make your way to Betty’s Place (p163) at Kegsugl for and with so many
the amazing Mt Wilhelm climb (p162). Travel onward to Mt Hagen (p164), flights it’s pricey,
enjoying the spectacular scenery and a game of Highlands darts. If there’s
no clan warfare going on, continue along the highway to Tari (p173) via but if you want
Mendi (p170) and stunning Lake Kutubu (p172), but if the feisty Southern more time and/or
Highlanders are fighting you’d better do this leg by aeroplane – the beauti- want to save
ful Tari Basin (p173) is worth it. Don’t miss the Huli Wigmen (p173). money cut out the
Fly to coastal Wewak (p179) and the Sepik area, and take a boat up the
Alotau leg and fly
mighty Sepik River (p188). Fly from Wewak to a luxury resort in Madang
(p140) and relax. straight to Lae.
Wewak
Sepik
River
Mt
Madang
Wilhelm
Mt Hagen
Goroka New Britain
Tari Waghi
Valley
Kegsugl
Lake Mendi
Kutubu Lae
Salamaua
Route
ative
Altern
PORT MORESBY
Alotau
Samarai I &
Kwato I
© Lonely Planet Publications
20 IRTUI N ENRI NA GR HI EESA D• • • •R oRaudnLe
n i snsg sT ur abvheelal edd www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com R U N NIITNI GNHE RE A DR I E•S• •R•u nTan i nl ogre
S udb Threiapds 21
plenty of time to under the water at the WWII-era Submarine Base (p223). Sleep in the excel- and trek up part of the Black Cat Track (p137) to
Alexishafen
lent value Rabaul Hotel (p221), a great place to chill out until the boat leaves the battlefield at Mt Tambu.
read. We recom- Returning to Lae, take a PMV to Madang Madang
for Buka Island (p242).
mend Beyond At booming Buka take in Sohano Island (p242) and buy supplies for the (p140), crossing the Finisterre Ranges through Finisterre
Ranges
the Coral Sea by next leg of the journey that takes you across the Buka Passage to Bougainville which Allied troops pursued the retreating
Lae
Michael Moran. Island and beyond. Head down the east coast to Arawa (p244), and then to Japanese after the fall of Lae. In Madang, visit
Salamaua
Buin (p245), via Aropa, for the quasi-legal border crossing known as the Gun the Coastwatchers’ Memorial (p142) and Alexishafen Black
Cat Mt Tambu
Run (p314), because it was once used by Bougainville Revolutionary Army (p147), where bomb craters and Japanese bomb- Track
rebels to smuggle guns from the Solomon Islands. Spend your waiting time ers can be seen around the wartime airstrip.
on Buin trekking to Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft wreck (p245). Fly to Rabaul (p219) and visit the East New
Buna & Gona
After the three-hour canoe ride to the mangroves of the Shortland Britain Historical & Cultural Centre (p214) in Kokopo, Popondetta
Islands, fly from Ballalae Island to Gizo (p270), where the diving and WWII snorkel around Submarine Base (p223) and check Kokoda
Port Moresby Track
history is amazing (and you can pass through immigration). Island hop out the Japanese Barge Tunnels (p218).
from here all the way to Honiara (p247), via the WWII war dumps at Munda
(p264) and idyllic Uepi Island Resort (p267) in the marine wildlife wonder- RIPPING THE CURL
land that is Marovo Lagoon (p266). PNG and the Solomons are emerging as great surfing destinations for those
wanting to immerse themselves in tropical waters and friendly Melanesian
culture. On the north side, monsoon swells come in from October to April,
while PNG’s southern side gets waves from June to September. Some of
these breaks are just newly discovered: this is for intrepid surfer-explorers.
BYO boards.
Start at Vanimo (p185), near the Indonesian border, and surf off Lido
Rabaul & Village where reef breaks peel left and right. Then fly to Aitape (p187) for
Matupit I
Tavurvur
some simple village accommodation and some unexplored surf breaks.
At Wewak (p179) there are waves at Moem Point and nearby Muschu,
Kairuru and Wallis islands. On the coast north of Madang (p140) there
New Britain
Buka I
Buka are great point breaks up towards Bogia (p147). Take a plane or a slow
Walindi
Plantation
Kimbe Sohano I boat to Kavieng (p229) where the guys from Nusa
Morobe
Province
Resort Bougainville Arawa
Island Retreat (p232) will take you to breaks like
Admiral Yamamoto's
Lae Aircraft Wreck Pikinini. Go to Manus where the reef break off
Buin
Ballalae I
Shortland Is Ahus Island (p239) can be huge.
Fly to the Solomon Islands and take a boat Vanimo Ahus Island
to the Nggelas (p261) where Maravagi Resort on Aitape Kavieng
Wewak
Gizo Marovo
Lagoon Mangalonga Island (p262) has several breaks. Back
Munda
New Georgia I at Honiara catch a plane or the MV Pelican Madang
Vangunu I
Express to Gizo (p270) and surf the reef breaks at Nggelas/
HONIARA Pailongge, Titiana and Makuti Island, and near Gizo & Lola Island Mangalonga
Resort
Zipolo Habu Resort on Lola Island (p265).
Guadalcanal I
Be a trail-blazer and catch a light plane out to
Makira Ulawa
rarely visited Makira Ulawa (p280) and surf the leg-
endary breaks at Star Harbour and Tawarogha.
For more surfing information see p287.
© Lonely Planet Publications
333
THE AUTHORS
The Authors
ROWAN MCKINNON
Coordinating Author, Destination, Getting Started, Itineraries,
History, The Culture, Food & Drink, Port Moresby, Directory, Transport
Rowan, a freelance writer and musician, has been travelling to Papua New
Guinea and the Solomons for 20 years. He first went to PNG in 1988 as a
musician with arty world-beat band Not Drowning Waving to record at Pacific
Gold Studios in Rabaul – years before the volcanic eruptions destroyed the
pretty town. He’s written for three successive editions of Lonely Planet’s
Papua New Guinea, and twice contributed the Solomons chapter to Lonely
Planet’s South Pacific, so this part of the world is like a home away from
home. Rowan lives in Melbourne, Australia, with his partner and kids, and
an odds-and-sods collection of Melanesian objets d’art.
JEAN-BERNARD CARILLET
Diving in Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands,
Island Provinces, Solomon Islands
A Paris-based journalist and photographer, Jean-Bernard is a hopeless South
Pacific addict and has travelled the length and breadth of the Grand Océan,
from Easter Island to New Caledonia and from the Cook Islands to Vanuatu.
A diving instructor, he also taught diving in the turquoise lagoons of French
Polynesia. For this edition he was all too happy to don his mask again to
check out the best dive sites in the Solomon Sea and to explore the rugged
islands of New Guinea and the Solomons. Seen from a café in Montmartre,
he can’t think of a more antipodean experience.
DEAN STARNES
Central, Oro & Milne Bay Provinces, Morobe & Madang Provinces,
The Highlands, The Sepik, Gulf & Western Provinces
Dean was literately thrown into the deep end on this assignment when the
banana boat he was travelling in was swamped by a series of waves and
sunk off a remote stretch of the Gulf Province’s coast. Despite this ordeal,
Dean reports that Papua New Guinea isn’t as dangerous as the international
press makes out and hopes this guide will encourage others to explore
this wild frontier. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, Dean works as
a part-time graphic designer in Auckland, New Zealand. Photographs and
travel stories from this and other trips can be seen at his website www
.deanstarnes.com.
CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS
Lina Abirafeh wrote the Solo Women Travellers boxed text (p304). Lina is a gender and development
practitioner and PhD candidate with 11 years of development experience. She currently works in PNG,
focusing on gender issues, particularly gender-based violence, in the context of HIV/AIDS. Lina has also
worked in Sierra Leone, Afghanistan, Bangladesh and Morocco, running programmes for women.
Peter FitzSimons wrote the Kokoda Track colour section. Peter writes for The Sydney Morning Herald
and the Sun-Herald. In the course of his journalistic career he has interviewed everyone from President
George Bush Sr to Diego Maradona to Matt Damon. He has played for the Wallabies, written 18 books
and was Australia’s best-selling nonfiction author in 2001 and 2004, the latter with his book on Kokoda.
Married to television presenter Lisa Wilkinson, Peter has three children and lives in Sydney.
Tim Flannery wrote the Environment chapter. Tim is a naturalist, explorer and author of a number of
award-winning books, including The Future Eaters, Throwim Way Leg (an account of his adventures as
a biologist in New Guinea) and The Eternal Frontier – a landmark ecological history of North America.
Tim has been Director of the South Australian Museum, professor at the University of Adelaide and
Principal Research Scientist at the Australian Museum in Sydney. In 2007 Tim was awarded the Aus-
tralian of the Year. He is currently an adjunct professor at Macquarie University. His most recent book
is The Weather Makers.
Michael Sorokin wrote the Health chapter. Michael was born in South Africa, graduated from the Uni-
versity of Witwatersrand in Johannesburg, and holds the Fellowship of the Royal College of Physicians
of Edinburgh. Having travelled widely in the West Melanesian region, he was a district medical officer
in the Solomons, lecturer at the Fiji School of Medicine, consultant physician in Lautoka, Fiji, and was
awarded the Fijian President’s medal for medical services in that country. Currently he is a tutor at the
University of Adelaide’s Medical Education unit and consults in a travel medicine clinic.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
22 lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Polynesians & Malay Traders 23
This claim was extended in 1897 and 1898, and in 1899 Britain relinquished death: ‘Tulagi will be torn apart and scattered to the winds.’ Fourteen years
its claims in Samoa in exchange for Germany ceding the Shortlands, Choiseul, later his prediction came true…in spades. For a look at relics from
Santa Isabel and Ontong Java to Britain. The new territory was called the WWII, check out the well-
British Solomon Islands Protectorate (BSIP) and was under the administra- WWII BREAKS OUT researched www
tion of Charles Morris Woodford, the first resident commissioner. Having raced south through Asia and the Pacific, the Japanese occupied .pacificwrecks.com.
Rabaul in New Guinea in January 1942, and in early April they seized the
GOVERNMENT BY PATROL Solomons’ Shortland Islands and Tulagi, the colonial capital, three weeks
In 1888, when Sir William MacGregor became British New Guinea’s ad- later. Soon they controlled most of the Solomon Islands. In early June,
ministrator, he established a native police force to spread the benefits of Korean labourers were seen building an airfield on Guadalcanal (present-
British government. He instituted the policy of ‘government by patrol’, day Henderson Airport). This would supply further Japanese advances in
which continued through the Australian period. In 1906 British New Guinea Allied territory in the New Hebrides (Vanuatu), New Caledonia, Fiji and
became the Territory of Papua and its administration was taken over by even Australia and New Zealand. The Allies had to retake Guadalcanal
newly independent Australia. From 1907 until his death in 1940, Papua whatever the cost. The huge US war machine began landings on
was governed by Sir Hubert Murray with equal measures of paternalism Guadalcanal in August 1942 and the ensuing battles exacted a terrible cost
and progressive thinking. on both sides. During the Guadalcanal campaign alone six naval battles In 1960 John F Kennedy
Despite being in demise elsewhere, slavery was thriving in New Guinea were fought and 67 warships and transports were sunk on both sides – invited two Solomon Is-
and especially the Solomons during the late-19th and early-20th centuries. the stretch of water between Guadalcanal and the Florida Islands became landers to his presidential
Known as ‘blackbirding’, men were carted off to provide plantation labour known as Iron Bottom Sound. Although there were more than 7000 US inauguration in Washing-
in northern Australia and Fiji. More than 29,000 people were taken from casualties, Japan’s losses were devastating. Of more than 24,000 soldiers ton DC. They were turned
the Solomons alone. lost, over a third died from disease, starvation or war wounds, and another away because they spoke
15,000 perished in sea actions. no English. In 1943 these
1914–41 two islanders rescued
When WWI broke out in 1914, Australian troops quickly overran the German BIRTH OF THE KOKODA LEGEND 26-year-old skipper JFK
headquarters at Rabaul and for the next seven years German New Guinea Japanese successes in New Guinea were short-lived. Australian troops and 10 survivors after
was run by the Australian military. In 1920 the League of Nations officially fought back an advance along the rugged Kokoda Track, which the their boat was sunk by
handed German New Guinea over to Australia as a mandated territory. Japanese were using in an attempt to reach and take Port Moresby, the Japanese during WWII.
Australia was quick to eradicate the German commercial and plantation only remaining Australian stronghold on the island. In a flanking move,
presence, baulking only at the German missions. Australia enacted legislation the Japanese landed at Milne Bay but were repulsed after a bloody 10-day
aimed at restricting the commercial exploitation of Eastern New Guinea to battle with Australian troops.
British nationals and, more particularly, Australians. Copra, rubber, coffee
On 2 July 1937 aviator and cocoa were the main earners.
Amelia Earhart and her The discovery of large deposits of gold at Edie Creek and the Bulolo Valley THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT
navigator Fred Noonan in the 1920s brought men and wealth to the north coast. After 400 years of When Mick Leahy ventured inland in 1930 he was looking for gold. Instead, on that and nine sub-
left Lae on PNG’s north coastal contact, some of those white men finally made it into the interior sequent expeditions during the next five years, Leahy, his brother Dan and Jim Taylor ‘discovered’
coast and flew off into (see boxed text, opposite). about a million people living in the secluded valleys of the New Guinea Highlands.
oblivion. Under the Australian administration, kiaps (patrol officers) were usually New Guinea’s white colonialists had thought the area uninhabited, but it was the most densely
the first Europeans to venture into previously ‘uncontacted’ areas, and were populated part of the country. In an age of aeroplanes, radio and international telecommunications,
also responsible for making the government’s presence felt on a regular basis. the discovery was stunning. It didn’t take long for the ‘land that time forgot’ to be dragged into the
This situation continued until independence. 20th century. The Leahy brothers introduced coffee, and before long missionaries and aircraft were also
WWI bypassed the Solomons altogether, but the first prominent rejec- arriving. The Highlanders, who had only known a barter economy, were quick to adapt to cash.
tion of European values occurred in the 1927 Kwaio Rebellion (see p278) in Mick Leahy’s meticulous recording of events – in his diary, several hours of 16mm film and
Malaita. In 1928 several of the Kwaio rebels were hanged in the then-capital more than 5000 photographs – can be seen in the acclaimed 1983 documentary First Contact.
Tulagi. Basiana, the rebel leader, made a defiant prophesy shortly before his
locals had never experienced from their colonial overlords. The postwar
profligacy of the massive US war machine – where boats were scuttled and
SUMMARY JUSTICE – THE SECRET LYNCHINGS OF WWII guns and jeeps were dumped in the sea before the soldiers disappeared in
It’s been a dark secret until very recently, but Australian WWII troops summarily hanged New giant transport planes – sent very strange messages to people who were just
Guineans during WWII for cooperating with Japanese troops – perhaps as many as 213. Hundreds stepping out of the Stone Age.
of children were made to watch the execution of 17 men in a single day in 1943 near Higaturu in Every year, 23 July is commemorated as Remembrance Day for the Papua
Oro Province to ‘learn a lesson’ about cooperating with the Japanese. A gallows at this site alone New Guineans who died in WWII. It’s also the anniversary of the 1942 battle In 1965, after 20 years of
executed 103. Many of the fuzzy wuzzy angels – the New Guinean stretcher-bearers who carried between the Papuan Infantry Battalion and the Japanese invaders that took hiding in the bush after
wounded Australian Diggers along the Kokoda Track – were actually press-ganged into service. place near the Kumusi River in Oro Province. the end of WWII, the last
Japanese soldier
TOWARDS INDEPENDENCE surrendered on Vella
The Japanese came within 50km of Port Moresby, but an unsustainably Masses of abandoned war equipment was put to use in developing both the Lavella island in the
extended supply line and heroic resistance by Australian soldiers with local Solomon Islands and New Guinea. Even today you can see how Marsden Solomons. He returned
help turned the course of the whole Pacific war. By September 1942 the previ- matting is used for fencing and building material, and many WWII-era home to full military
ously undefeated Japanese were in a slow and bloody retreat. Over the next Quonset huts are still standing. However, the war’s main impact proved to honours.
A Bastard of a Place 16 months, Australian and US forces battled their way towards the Japanese be social and political.
(2003) by Peter Brune strongholds along the north coast, eventually taking Salamaua, Buna, Gona An influx of expatriates to PNG, mainly Australians, fuelled rapid eco-
accurately details fighting and Lae at a cost of thousands of lives. nomic growth. The expatriate population grew from about 6000 to more
on the Kokoda Track and The Japanese, however, refused to surrender. It took until 1945 to regain than 50,000 in 1971. Today it’s about 19,200.
the bitter struggle to all the mainland from the Japanese but New Ireland, New Britain and Colonialism wasn’t popular in the 1950s and ’60s and Australia was urged
recapture the Japanese Bougainville were not relieved until the Japanese surrender. For years after to prepare Papua and New Guinea for independence. A visiting UN mission
coastal positions, and the end of WWII there were stories about Japanese soldiers still hiding out in 1962 stressed that if the people weren’t pushing for independence, then
criticises some of the in the jungle. Many of these stories were apocryphal, but some were true. it was Australia’s responsibility to do so. Australia’s policy of reinforcing
senior Australian and Most Melanesians were initially militarily neutral in the conflict, although literacy and education was wedded to a concerted effort to create an educated
American officers. they were used extensively on both sides as labourers, guides, carriers and social group that could run government.
informers – sometimes press-ganged by the Japanese. But some were heavily In 1964, a House of Assembly with 64 members was formed. Internal
involved with the Allies, operating behind enemy line as ‘coastwatchers’. A self-government came into effect in 1973, followed by full independence
number of Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders were decorated on 16 September 1975. Barely recovered from
for their bravery. It is estimated that almost a third of Tolais from northern In the Solomons the Marching Rule nationalist movement was crushed by the devastation of WWII,
New Britain were killed. the British in the early 1950s, but self-rule was slowly introduced, culminat- in 1951 the district
ing in independence on 7 July 1978. headquarters of Central
Through the accounts of POSTWAR EXPERIENCE Province, Higaturu,
Japanese, Australian and In the Solomons, once Guadalcanal had been secured by the Allies, several TROUBLED YOUNG NATIONS was flattened when Mt
American war veterans thousand islanders, mainly Malaitans, went to serve as labourers and orderlies Law and order was not a serious issue until the 1990s, when mineral- Lamington erupted,
and Papua New Guinean at the massive US military base at Honiara. The Honiara township was estab- rich PNG began to develop large-scale mining operations. These fast killing more than 3000
villagers, Angels of War lished to service the Henderson air base. This massive WWII relocation of became the greatest contributors to the economy, but also social, en- people. The new capital,
(1982) portrays the plight Malaitan people to Guadalcanal was actually the first seed of the devastating vironmental and political burdens that, in the 1980s and ’90s, took Popondetta, was built
of villagers who lived ethnic tensions that first erupted in 1999 and around the 2000 coup nearly a heavy toll. First the giant Ok Tedi gold-and-copper mine poisoned further from the volcano.
through some of the 60 years later (see p249). much of the Ok Tedi and Fly Rivers, and then conflict over profits
most brutal fighting of The Melanesian experience of WWII caused a sharp resurgence in from the Panguna copper mine in Bougainville descended into war
the Pacific campaign. cargo-cultism (see p34). The war’s sudden arrival and its massive impact (see p241). Rebel leader Francis Ona and the Bougainville Revolution
could not have been more profound. US soldiers – many of them black – Army (BRA) fought for independence from PNG and a homeland state
treated locals as equals and shared food with them. This was something that called Mekamui.
The Culture
REGIONAL IDENTITY
The people of Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands are almost all
Melanesians but the background of the population varies greatly, and even
those that aren’t Melanesians share many Melanesian habits. Increasingly,
there’s European and Chinese blood in the mix, particularly in the towns.
Some people have typical urban lifestyles with mobile phones and comfort-
able homes. Others inhabit remote areas and may never have seen a town or a
white person. In traditional PNG societies, despite their sophisticated agricul-
tural and maritime skills, tools and artefacts were made of wood, bone, pot-
tery or stone. There was no metalworking, domestic animal power or wheels.
Extensive trading networks existed and rare shells were used as currency.
People traded widely in pottery, stone tools, obsidian (dark, glassy volcanic
rock), dyes, salt, sago and smoked fish. Some people still live this way and,
while the hard currency and cash crops have replaced kina shells, traditional
valuables still hold value and certain ceremonial objects are revered.
In just a few generations since European contact, the people of Papua
New Guinea and the Solomon Islands have found themselves in independ-
ent island states in the age of information and the internet. Along the way
they’ve been browbeaten by Bible-thumpers and exploited by colonial power.
Most claim to be Catholic but European religion is often blended with trad-
itional beliefs. The primary obligation that Melanesian people have is to their
wantoks (see boxed text, p37), which is taken very seriously – gift-giving is
highly formalised. You might think nothing of giving somebody a small gift
but in Melanesian culture that person is then indebted to you.
There’s cynicism about politics, especially among those in remote areas After the great American
(where roads and services are in decline) who regard politicians as corrupt. military machine left at
But PNG has a young demographic (the median age is 19.7 years) and energy the end of WWII, cargo
and Melanesian optimism emerge in their music, friendliness and ready cults began to sprout.
laughter. One of the things that confounds outsiders is the warmth of people People built runways
who were forever at war; ritually killing and eating each other. This contradic- for imaginary planes to
tion no doubt contributes to anthropologists’ attraction for this region. land on and deliver kago
Young, urbanised Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders wear (material goods). See
Snoop Dogg T-shirts but prefer their own home-grown sounds to the boxed text, p34, for more
Western pop charts. Many travel overseas and stay with relatives in Cairns information.
and Brisbane. They almost all chew buai (betel nut), go to church, worship
dead ancestors and fear masalais (malevolent spirits).
LIFESTYLE
Melanesians are laid-back, at least on the coast where it’s too hot to get
overly fussed. Highlanders are a bit more feisty and passionate. Everyone
seems to walk slowly, but they’ve got this climate worked out – cling to the
shade, sleep through the midday heat and save physical exertion for village
rugby late in the day.
Most rural people are subsistence farmers or growers and traders of cash
crops, such as bananas, betel nut and coffee. In the towns and cities, unskilled
work pays about K120 to K200 per fortnight; skilled middle income earners
earn K400 to K500 per fortnight.
By Western standards most people live very simply. In the bush people
have very few possessions and often no cash income. In the cities a number
of educated people lead sophisticated middle-class lives, but other people
live in squalor in city-fringe settlements. PNG lifestyles range from the
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by the roadside. Large pigs can be worth K1000. Dogs, on the other hand,
are mangy, fly-blown creatures left to scavenge for food. THE WANTOK SYSTEM
People in both countries still maintain animist beliefs. Despite the inroads Fundamental to Melanesian culture is the idea of wantoks (meaning ‘one talk’ in Tok Pisin) and your
of Christianity, ancestor worship is still important. The netherworld is also wantoks are those who speak your tokples or language – your clan or kinfolk. Every Melanesian is
inhabited by spirits, both protective and malevolent, and there are creation born with duties to their wantoks but they also have privileges. Within the clan and village, each
myths that involve animal totems. This is stronger in certain areas: islanders person can expect to be housed and fed, and to share in the community’s assets. Regardless of
from Malaita in the Solomons worship sharks while some Sepik River people whether clanspeople are in Wewak or Warsaw, all wantoks can expect to be accommodated and
revere crocodiles. Christianity has a tight grip on most people, but it hasn’t fed, until they can make a more permanent home.
supplanted traditional beliefs. They coexist – Jesus is alive in people’s hearts This is a social security system, and the plague of both democratic politics and enterprise.
and minds without conflicting with their traditional ideas. Some say that the wantok system is the best and worst thing about PNG and the Solomon
Bride price is the formalised gift-giving of money and certain traditional Islands. For villagers, it is an egalitarian way for the community to share its spoils. In rapidly
valuables to the father of a would-be bride. It often comprises shell money, changing circumstances, the village and the clan provide basic economic support as well as a
but can also include cash, pigs and SP Lager. Part of becoming a man and sense of belonging.
commanding respect in traditional societies is to work hard and raise a bride When these ideas are transposed to politics and social affairs, it becomes nepotism and, at
price so you can marry. Bride price is common, but these days many men worst, corruption. In the public service, the police, the army and especially in politics, this is a
compile their bride price after they’re married. scourge. Candidates don’t get to run without the support of their fellow bigmen, who expect
Men’s cults are widespread throughout Melanesia and involve the ritu- that when ‘their’ candidate is elected, their generosity will be repaid. The wantok system is also
alised practice of ‘the arts’ and ancestor worship in men’s houses and haus the greatest disincentive to enterprise.
tambarans (spirit houses). This can involve the building and display of certain The wantok system is a microcosm of the battle being waged between the modern and the
ceremonial objects, song and dance, and the initiation of boys into manhood. traditional in PNG and the Solomons. It is so deeply entrenched that some educated youngsters
It manifests in different ways in different societies, but it is very secretive choose to move away from their families to avoid the calls for handouts. And without it life would
and deadly serious – in the Sepik boys are cut with crocodile markings as be much harder for many others. Just saying ‘no’ to a wantok is rarely an option.
part of their initiation, while Tolais boys are visited by dukduks (spiritual
costumes) to perform their initiation rites. It’s ironic and hard to fathom
Shark-calling in Malaita for outsiders, but while men’s business and haus tambarans are tambu for coffee prices have provided direct benefits to PNG growers who are mostly
in the Solomons involves women, men’s cults and their initiation rites are all about rebirthing – the smallholders in the Highlands. In 2006 coffee exports were worth K471
boys handfeeding sharks haus tambaran is like a womb and in some places its entrance is actually million. PNG rubber exports are also significant.
and riding on their backs. shaped like a vagina. The Solomon Islands timber industry is its single biggest export earner, but
See boxed text, p237. the country’s forests are seriously over-harvested. The industry is dominated
ECONOMY by Asian multinationals and many of their practices have been environmen-
About 85% of Papua New Guineans and Solomon Islanders live subsistence tally disastrous and sometimes illegal. Some estimates suggest that Solomons’
agricultural lifestyles in rural villages. Surplus food production is traded in timber will be logged out in as little as five years if felling continues at the
informal cash economies and this makes up the bulk of financial activity in current unsustainable rate.
both countries. Both PNG and the Solomons have poor economic infrastructure, which Village on the Edge
Industries that dominate the formal economic sector are the capital- makes the cost of doing business very high. Except for the PNG’s Highlands (2002), by Michael French
intensive mining and oil industries that employ large numbers of foreign Highway that connects Madang and Lae to the major population centres Smith, is a thoughtful
nationals and relatively few locals. They tend to be controlled by overseas in the Highlands, neither country has any significant road network. PNG’s book about a village on a
interests and thus considerable portions of the profits are taken offshore. In mountainous mainland and the many islands in PNG and the Solomons volcanic island, and the
2005 PNG’s total export earnings reached K10 billion (US$3.5 billion) for the means that communities are isolated from each other and the internal trans- changing lifestyles as it
first time. Gold was the biggest foreign-exchange earner with the export of portation systems comprise mostly light aircraft and informal trade-boat confronts modernity.
70.5 tonnes worth K2.8 billion to the national economy. Copper, principally routes. (It is interesting to note that domestic aviation was born in PNG.)
extracted from the giant Ok Tedi mine, and crude oil are respectively the Both countries lie off the major shipping routes and thus sea-freight costs
second- and third-highest earning export commodities. are high and services to and from the rest of the world are infrequent. There
The Solomon Islands mining industry was dealt a mortal blow during is almost no manufacturing base in PNG or the Solomons, so just about
the period of ethnic tension – the rich Gold Ridge mine near Honiara had everything is imported (mostly from Australia and Asia) and everything
only a year of production before it was forced to close in June 2000. Today is expensive.
it is expected to again produce large amounts of gold and copper. The Productivity growth is also restricted by poor education at one end of the
Solomons’ fishing industry is looking to expand again after the economic human-resources spectrum and a significant ‘brain drain’ at the other. In
doldrums of the early 2000s. The Soltai tuna cannery at Noro is one of the PNG fewer than 60% of children complete 6th grade and only about 10%
biggest in the South Pacific and exports tuna products to supermarkets enrol in secondary school, while many of the best and brightest of the profes-
in Europe and America. It is the country’s second-highest export earner sional class leave for better-paid employment overseas.
(behind timber). Between 1960 and PNG independence in 1975 the economy on average
The agricultural sector is more labour-intensive and employs far more was growing at more than 5.5%, thanks in large part to a substantial and
PNG and Solomons nationals than the mining sector. Forestry, copra and productive Australian expatriate community and the Panguna copper mine in
palm oil again tend to be controlled by foreign interests. Increases in world Bougainville, which began operating in 1968. The Panguna mine accounted
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Most expats are Australians, Brits and Germans, but there’s a large Chinese
for 40% of the country’s income and its closure in 1989 led to a sharp decline community that has been in PNG for a long time and it has intermixed with
in GDP. Between 1975 and 2004 the PNG economy grew at an average 2.3%, the local population more than any other group. Around Vanimo there are
although the last couple of years have seen stronger growth due to strong significant numbers of Indonesians and Malaysians.
commodities prices and high minerals yields. Expats fall into three groups – those who are in PNG and the Solomons
Foreign aid remains an important component of both economies. In for a long time or even a lifetime, expat workers who come in on lucrative
2007 PNG received K880 million (US$310 million), although the amount two-year contracts with international companies, and younger people who
has been falling in recent years. Through AusAID, Australia contributed come in for a period as volunteers, aid workers and NGOs.
about 78% of that amount, with the balance made up of contributions There are no more mastas (white colonials) in oversized shorts and knee-
from Japan, the EU, New Zealand, China and the USA. Foreign aid (mostly length white socks building empires with cheap local labour. Today’s expatri-
Australian) to the Solomons was worth about S$930 million (US$122 mil- ate community is a varied group; some are involved in the fledgling tourism
lion) in 2007 and 70% of that was directed at the programme of RAMSI sector as hotel proprietors or scuba-diving instructors. There are religious
civilian activities. zealots, people fleeing broken marriages or dodgy business activities, obsessed
scientific nerds studying insect larvae, and adventurers.
POPULATION When independence came to PNG in 1975, many Australian and Chinese
Papua New Guinea residents were eligible for PNG citizenship, on the condition that they re- ‘Papua New
PNG people are closely related to people from other parts of the Pacific. nounced their original citizenship. Many did and some now hold positions
There are Papuans, the first arrivals; Melanesians, who represent 95% of Guineans
of considerable political and economic importance.
Penis gourds are still de people and are related to people from the Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji are proud
rigueur for many men in and New Caledonia; Polynesians, related to New Zealand Maoris, Tongans, SPORT of their
PNG’s remote parts. Samoans and Hawaiian islanders; and Micronesians, related to people in the Organised sport is in its infancy in PNG and the Solomon Islands. Papua
Marshall Islands, Kiribati and Nauru. nationals
New Guineans are proud of their nationals doing well in sport overseas.
Only 15% of people live in urban areas, while most of the rest are subsist- Swimmer Ryan Pini became an instant national hero in PNG when he won doing well
ence farmers. Nearly two million people live in the Highlands, the most the gold medal for the 100m butterfly at the 2006 Commonwealth Games in in sport
densely populated part of the country. Most cities have many people who Melbourne. Dika Loa Toua won a silver for the women’s 53kg weightlifting
weren’t born there. Many Highlanders migrate to Port Moresby and else- overseas’
at the same event.
where, but few coastal people move into the Highlands. Melanesian people Mal Michael is a successful Australian Rules footballer who was a three-
still identify more strongly with their clan links and their origins than with time premiership-winning full-back with the Brisbane Lions before (contro-
the people they come to live with, so enclaves exist in the settlement areas versially) changing to the Essendon Football Club for the 2007 season.
of the big cities, and there is a traditional distrust between Highlanders Rugby league is PNG’s national sport and Marcus Bai is a rugby league
and coastal people. During the Bougainville war, dark-skinned bukas superstar and perhaps PNG’s most successful sporting export. He played
(Bougainvilleans) used to be harassed and vilified around PNG, but this in Australia for the Gold Coast Chargers and Melbourne Storm, and in
doesn’t happen now. England for Leeds Rhinos and Bradford Bulls. PNG has produced sev-
Only Port Moresby, Lae and Mt Hagen have a real big-city crush. The other eral first-grade rugby-league professionals who are plying their trades
provincial capitals are not as crowded (except on provincial show day). Land in overseas leagues including Tommy O’Reilly, Keith Peters, Omphalus
pressures have caused people to leave the villages and seek work, and great Kua, Stanley Gene and John Wilshere. Another PNG player, Adrian Lam,
urban squatter settlements have appeared around many major cities. In 2002 played 14 State of Origin matches for Queensland and captained PNG at
Madang authorities burnt down a huge Sepiks’ settlement on the outskirts of the 2000 World Cup.
town after giving the residents some resettlement compensation. Stanley ‘The Headhunter’ Nandex from Erave district in Southern
Highlands Province was the world super-middleweight kickboxing cham-
Solomon Islands pion before retiring in 2005.
The Solomons people are 94% Melanesian and otherwise made up Melanesian people love sport, and ball games of all kinds fit into their
of Polynesians, some relocated Micronesian communities and a few communal outdoorsy culture. There are raggedy volleyball nets in many
expatriates. villages and impromptu rugby games are played in village singsing grounds.
Malaita has more than twice the population of rural Guadalcanal and Local netball and rugby competitions are played on weekends in parks and
only Honiara has many people. Here, too, land pressures have forced locals fields everywhere. Soccer and softball are now popular.
to move, most notably Malaitan islanders to Guadalcanal, and this in part Televised sport is of paramount importance and everybody aligns them-
brought on the ethnic tensions that began boiling over in 1999. Since then selves fiercely (and seemingly arbitrarily) to the Blues or Maroons for the
20,000 people have been coerced into returning to Malaita, exacerbating its Australian Rugby League’s state-of-origin match between Queensland and
overpopulation problems. New South Wales. The fervour for this big event sees a rash of T-shirt sales
and vast amounts of money wagered on the outcome.
Expatriates If you get to the Trobriand Islands (p118), make sure you take in a game of
In both PNG and the Solomons there are relatively large numbers of expats, Trobriands cricket. Cricket was introduced in 1903 by Methodist missionaries
but this is in decline. There are about 20,000 non-citizens in PNG, down to reduce ritual warfare, and has since been adapted to include many local
from a 1971 peak of 50,000, and about a quarter of these are West Papuan rules as well as magic, war paint, feasting and ritual.
refugees living in border camps.
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traditional cultures was to enable the ceremonies and rituals to be performed watchable – for a little while. It has its own news and sport programmes,
correctly, and to serve the clan and chief. cheesy local ads in Tok Pisin, local music-video shows and some lightweight
The production of artefacts is itself often ceremonial and ritualistic. On ‘lifestyle’ programmes, which mostly advertise outdoor furniture from Brian
some of the islands, secret men’s societies build dukduks or carve malangan Bell stores. Otherwise it carries Australian programming. Watching EmTV is
masks (totemic figures honouring the dead). Women are forbidden to look a good way to pick up some Pidgin language skills. The conservative influence
upon a dukduk or malangan until it is brought to life in a ceremony by a of the church ensures that TV carries no overtly sexual content (but violent
fierce anonymous character. Rambo-style vigilante movies are very common and popular).
See the documentary First
Contact (below) before
Cinema & TV Music
Despite the fact that there’s no local film production, there’s a rich tradition Melanesians are incredibly musical people and some local artists have had
you die.
of documentary films made in PNG – and in the Solomons to a lesser degree. international success. They are great singers – listen to the church singing The Wantok Musik
Errol Flynn spent time in PNG and more recently Madang’s north coast was early on a Sunday morning – and natural guitar and ukulele players. Foundation (www
the setting for Pierce Brosnan’s portrayal of Robinson Crusoe.
.wantokmusik.org) is an
Australian Mark Worth was born in PNG and spent most of his profes- TRADITIONAL MUSIC Australian-based not-for-
sional life there as a pioneering ‘guerrilla’ journalist and film maker. While In recent years there’s been some revival of traditional music, but the impact profit organisation and
shooting his 1995 film Raskols, Worth got embroiled in a Highlands tribal of missionary workers has meant many traditional musical forms have been record label that releases
war. He had just finished making Land of the Morning Star, about the strug- lost. The kundu drum is the most widely used traditional instrument, shaped and promotes music from
gles in West Papua, when he died in Jayapura in 2004. like a tall, narrow egg-timer and covered with lizard skin. Many cultures use Melanesia and
EmTV is PNG’s national broadcaster in PNG. The Solomons launched its garamuts (hollowed-out logs from wrist size up to tree-trunk size). Garamut indigenous Australia.
own local One Channel TV service in 2006, broadcasting news in English drummers play astonishing rhythms in hierarchical ensembles where the
for an hour in the morning and an hour in the evening, in Honiara only for senior drummers play the trickiest patterns. The rhythms are specific to the
the time being. Satellite dishes in both countries pick up CNN, BBC World region and are very complex.
and Australian programmes, as well as other subscription TV. EmTV is very Shells and bamboo panpipes are blown, while rattles are made from gourds
and bundled banana leaves. Highland flutes (simple throwaway bamboo
tubes) are played in pairs and do an eerie call-and-response routine. Sepik
TOP DOCOS flutes are highly decorated and hollowed from solid timber. Jew’s harps are
Bob Connolly and the late Robin Anderson made a trilogy of excellent documentaries about also indigenous to PNG. Other instruments include bull roarers and ceramic
Papua New Guinea. whistles from the Highlands.
First Contact is an extraordinary film, using footage shot by the Leahy brothers when they
went into the Highlands in 1933 in search of gold. Instead they found 100,000 people living in CONTEMPORARY MUSIC
the Wahgi Valley who had no idea that the outside world existed. It’s truly brilliant cinema, made It’s exciting that countries as small as PNG and the Solomons can support
from old scratchy black-and-white images showing amazing scenes of Highlanders in traditional such strong local music scenes. Local radio is very supportive of local music
gear. They look completely bewildered when the Leahy brothers land a plane, play music on a (which is readily for sale as cassettes and CDs). Stringband music is played
wind-up gramophone and when they see themselves in little mirrors. by four or five guitarists and a ukulele player and based loosely around a 12-
Joe Leahy’s Neighbours shows a traditional society slowly coming to terms with the modernised bar blues structure. The guitars are tuned in unorthodox ways and are often
world. Joe is the son of Mick Leahy (with one of his Highlands concubines) and his profitable played with an arpeggiated, hammer-on action. The stringband sound has a
coffee plantation in the Highlands sets him apart from the neighbouring Ganiga clanspeople, real swing to it in a lazy South Pacific kind of way, but it varies widely from
whose subsistence lifestyles remain almost unchanged. the bright and happy Tolai (East New Britain Province) sound to the more
Black Harvest completes the trilogy, showing Joe Leahy’s coffee plantation expanding in partner- dirge-like and sombre Manus stringband music. Virtually every village has
ship with the Ganiga clan. Just before the first harvest (after a five-year maturation), international its own stringband and most PNG pop music comes out of this tradition.
coffee prices plummet and clan warfare breaks out. Reggae is also a strong influence in modern pop music.
In 2000 Russell Hawkins made Since the Company Came, about logging Rendova Island in the In the ’70s and ’80s Sanguma was a pioneering band that fused jazz-rock
Solomons, land disputes and clan troubles. with indigenous sounds – and had some international success. Another
Dennis O’Rourke’s The Shark Callers of Kontu is justifiably famous. O’Rourke’s film explores the artist, George Telek (www.telek.com) has been touring and working in Europe
ancient New Ireland art of shark-calling. He also looks at the bewildering dichotomies for Kontu and Australia. Ben Hakalitz and Baruka Tau performed with Yothu Yindi (www
villagers between their traditional ways and the impact of a rapidly arriving 21st century. .yothuyindi.com) in stadiums in Brazil and to close the 2000 Sydney Olympics.
Also set in a New Ireland village is Chris Owen’s splendid documentary Malangan Labadama, In the Solomons Sharzy is still the top pop performer. He’s a DJ on Z
which depicts the preparations, rituals and festivities surrounding the death of the village mimi FM. Narasirato (www.narasirato.com) mix classic Malaitan panpipe music with
(elder and chief ) Buk Buk in the island’s Mandak region. It provides a wonderful insight into contemporary beats. They’ve toured Australia and Japan.
Malangan culture.
Owen, an expat Australian, also created Bridewealth for a Goddess in 2000, which tells the story Theatre & Dance
of Amb Kor, a goddess who comes to Highlander chief Ru Kundil in a dream, and his attempts to There are community-based drama groups as well as those associated with
woo her through elaborate rituals. Owen’s most recent film is Betelnut Bisnis made in 2004. the universities and colleges. National funding for theatre has dried up, and
Ronin Films (www.roninfilms.com.au) in Australia distributes many of these titles. some great initiatives have had to stop. Theatre groups commonly work on
local-legend themes and stories, bringing to life traditional stories.
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The Faculty of Creative Arts (also known as the National Art School) was
RECOMMENDED LISTENING established at the University of PNG in Port Moresby in 1972. With a strong
emphasis on printmaking and painting, some of its graduates have earned
George Telek’s Serious Tam, recorded at Peter Gabriel’s Real World Studios, is an evocative
international reputations. Mathias Kauage, Jakuba, Cecil King, John Siune
record that features Telek’s extraordinary voice. His 1999 album Telek won an Australian ARIA
and Akis have works hanging in overseas galleries; Kauage, in particular, Contemporary Art in
Award and he recorded Amete in Melbourne 2004. Telek is a Tolai from Rabaul.
became world famous (see boxed text, below). Papua New Guinea
Hausboi from Manus are the most interesting new act, and their Diriman CD is great. Crosby, (1997), by Susan
Stills & Nash harmonies meet stringband rhythms via some boy-band soul and a little hip-hop Pottery Cochrane, is an
(with traditional flutes and garamuts). Highly recommended. The village of Aibom, near the Chambri Lakes, is virtually the only place on excellent book showing
O-Shen (www.o-shen.com) grew up near Lae and in America. His father was a doctor and his the Sepik that specialises in pottery. Aibom pots are noted for their relief how powerful
mother a teacher, both from the US who worked in PNG while O-Shen was growing up. He’s faces, which are coloured with lime and made by the coil method (as opposed Melanesian creative
the current superstar of PNG music. His music is a fusion of American hip-hop and Hawaiian to using a pottery wheel). energy has produced
and Melanesian islander sounds. Kanaka Pasifika was a huge hit and his new record 1 Rebel Other interesting pots can be found near Madang, in the Central Province, great painters like
was released in 2007. made by the Porebada people, and at Wanigela in Oro Province. The Amphlett Kauage and Siune.
Islanders in Milne Bay also make delicate pottery. Pottery is not glazed in
Tabaran was a collaboration between Australia’s Not Drowning Waving (www.notdrowning
Melanesia and is often poorly fired – it can be extremely fragile.
waving.com) and Rabaul-based musicians at Pacific Gold Studios (pre-volcanic eruption days),
including George Telek. A great mix of cultures and music, this 1988 recording is a classic and
pre-dates the worldwide explosion of ‘world music’. Stringbands and funeral chants meet arty
Carving
Carving is the main art of Melanesians and is what they are renowned for. It
atmospherics, electric guitars and wall-of-sound percussion. Tabaran was reissued in 2007.
can take many forms from tiny pieces to giant garamut drums.
Litol Rastas are from the Solomons and have a few clips on YouTube. Their Dollar Man CD
features terrible cover art but some terrific contemporary islander reggae sounds. BOWLS & STOOLS
Maiae by Solomons band Tipa is another good CD that mixes string-band parts with strong The Trobriand Islanders are prolific carvers of everything from stylised
vocal harmonies. figures to decorated lime gourds and beautifully made bowls. The bowls
are generally carved from ebony or rosewood and laboriously polished
Also recommended –Tumbuna Man by Khris Kassimis from Manus, and Tei Doh is Bad by Wali
Tribe from Madang.
with a pig’s tusk. The rims are patterned, often featuring a fish or turtle.
The Tami Islanders near Lae are renowned for their carved bowls.
Further offshore the Siassi Islanders carve deep, elliptical bowls that are
The Raun Raun Theatre (p157) in Goroka occasionally has performances patterned with incised designs coloured with lime.
by the resident ensemble. The Kaikuali Theatre Group in Alotau is another Trobriands stools are wonderful, carved from a single piece of timber and
long-established group of performers. Drum Drum (www.drumdrum.com.au) is a music, incorporating intricate detail.
dance and theatre collective based around the Ingram brothers from Gaba Gaba
near Port Moresby. The group works out of Darwin in northern Australia. SHIELDS, BOARDS & PROWS
Some of the most interesting Pacific art manifests in shields, canoe prows
Architecture and Sepik storyboards. Trobriands splash boards and canoe prows are
Modern architecture is a relatively new concept in PNG and the Solomons. magnificent and have a unique design. Traditionally, shields were often
Haus tambarans were the traditional expression of formal architecture and thought to be inhabited by dead ancestors who brought power and
there are incredible haus tambarans in the Sepik and in the Highlands. Yam protection to a warrior in war. These days, shields are produced for
houses in the Trobriands are another interesting traditional form. An emerg-
ing style blends traditional forms and materials into modern structures on a
large scale. The towering façade of the PNG parliament house takes its shape MATHIAS KAUAGE Rowan McKinnon
and big decorated prow from Sepik haus tambarans. Another individual piece I met Mathias Kauage in 1997 – he was asleep on the concrete path outside a Port Moresby hotel,
of architecture is the Raun Raun Theatre in Goroka. On a smaller scale, some his head resting on his folded forearms. His paintings were laid out near the door with a pebble
of the upmarket lodges around the country exhibit this building style quite on each corner, all for sale. They were very striking and filled with vivid images of helicopters
successfully, such as Ambua Lodge in the Southern Highlands (p174) and and planes with huge faces in the windows. I vacillated for ages before buying two.
Karawari Lodge (p199) in the East Sepik Province. A self-taught artist from Simbu, Kauage started painting in the ‘70s and was so successful
that many artists copied his style, and eventually there was a ‘school’ of Kauage-style
Painting & Printmaking naive-primitivists.
PNG painting is typically ‘flat’, with no sense of perspective or receding In 1994, when Kauage was invited to exhibit his work at the Glasgow Museum of Modern Art
backgrounds. Themes often explore the collision of traditional and modern and a London gallery, he was granted an audience with Queen Elizabeth II. He presented her
cultures or the illustration of local legends, such as the shark or turtle spirit. with the portrait Misis Kwin, in which she’s depicted with a tribal headdress and a bone through
Printmaking evolved from the Melanesian tradition of tapa cloth produc- her nose – it hangs in Buckingham Palace. He was awarded an Order of the British Empire in
tion and textile design is often reminiscent of tapa designs. Silk-screening 1998, and died in 2003 aged 66. Ol binatang blong PNG (All PNG’s Small Animals) hangs in my
is common and Papua New Guineans do fantastic T-shirt art (although this loungeroom. His paintings are now seriously collectable.
seems to be less common than a decade ago).
© Lonely Planet Publications
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n nUi Rn Eg S u• •b hAeratds 47
decoration and are often too unwieldy to stave off an incoming spear highly valued and worked into various forms of jewellery. Highlanders espe-
or arrow. cially invest great value in large kina and baler shells worn on the chest.
Jewellery
A form of jewellery that figures in traditional ceremonies from Kavieng
down the islands to Makira in the Solomons is the kapkap – open-worked
turtleshell over a white shell disk worn on the forehead. Teeth and tusks are
© Lonely Planet Publications
48 lwown ewl y. lpolnaenleytp. lcaonme t . c o m E N V I R O N M E NRTU N• •N I NP GN HG E–A DA M• •e gRaudni nv ei nr gs eS uRbehgei oa nd 49
caves can be unhealthy places (they abound with lung-clogging fungus Alpine Regions
among other unsavoury micro-organisms). It’s worth looking around the Where the woodland gives way to the alpine regions another world unfolds.
entrance of bat caves, however, for you will often find geckos, tree frogs There the tiger parrot calls from stunted umbrella plants. Rhododendron
and snakes there. All are waiting for the bats to pass by at dusk, when they bushes and tufted orchids are covered with flowers, and any woody plants
Tim Flannery’s books will try to grab one or two. are festooned with ant plants. These relatives of the coffee-bush resemble
Mammals of New Guinea New Guinea’s snake fauna includes some extremely venomous species, misshapen bottles more than plants, and are honeycombed with passages
(revised 1995) and such as the taipan and king brown snake, which are limited to the savan- that serve as home to colonies of ants. In a perfect example of the intimate A good place to see PNG’s
Mammals of the South- nahs. Generally speaking the higher up the mountains you go, the fewer ecological relationships that abound in the forest, the ant protects the plant, incredible array of giant
West Pacific and Moluccan venomous snakes there are. The largest of New Guinea’s snakes are py- while the plant provides shelter for its tiny defenders. bugs and butterflies is at
Islands (1995) provide thons, and some are simply enormous. While they’re non-venomous it’s You’ll see well-worn tracks winding through the alpine tussocks. Some are Parliament Haus. Under
a species-by-species wise to give them a wide berth, as they are immensely powerful and have made by diminutive wallabies, others by giant rats. New Guinea is home to a the stairs in the huge
account of all mammals been known to swallow children. spectacular diversity of rats, which comprise fully one-third of the mammal entrance hall is a couple
found in Melanesia. fauna. These distant relatives of the laboratory rat are spectacularly varied: of cabinets that display
some look like miniature otters and cavort in mountain streams, others re- all the country’s creepy
Mountain Forests semble small, tree-climbing possums, while still others look, and smell, like crawlies.
The forests of New Guinea’s mountains, including its high-mountain elfin rats from elsewhere. Among the most spectacular are the giant woolly rats,
woodland, are, on first acquaintance, more sedate places. There is often a which arguably are the largest rodents in the world. Several species inhabit
distinct chill in the air at dawn, and out of the mist you might hear the the alpine zone, where they eat vegetable matter and live in burrows below
pure tones of the New Guinea whipbird, or the harsher calls of any one the tussocks. They can grow to almost 1m long from nose to tail-tip, and
of a dozen birds of paradise. Just why New Guinea is home to such an have teeth that could snip a thumb off without trying, yet they are gentle
British comedian Bill
astonishing variety of spectacular birds has long puzzled biologists. Part creatures that never attempt to bite unless harassed.
Oddie, most famously
of the answer lies in the lack of mammalian predators on the island. The In two of the highest mountain regions in PNG – the Star Mountains in
part of The Goodies TV
largest – a marsupial known as the New Guinea quoll – is only kitten- the far west and Mt Albert Edward near Port Moresby – one of the country’s
show with Graeme Gar-
sized. Thus there are no foxes, leopards or similar creatures to prey on the most enigmatic birds can be seen. Known as McGregor’s bird of paradise, it is Mark O’Shea’s A Guide to
den and Tim Brook-Taylor,
birds, which as a consequence have developed such astonishing colours a velvet-black bird the size of a large crow which makes a distinctive rattling the Snakes of Papua New
is a highly respected orni-
and spectacular mating rituals as to beggar belief. Some species clear a sound as it flies. Under each wing is a large orange spot, and behind each eye Guinea (1997) and Mike
thologist who has visited
miniature stage upon which they dance with all the precision of a prima a fleshy, flapping orange wattle of skin. It’s a strangely trusting bird, making McCoy’s Reptiles of the
PNG many times. He uses
ballerina, while others build metre-tall towers decorated with colourful it easy to get a good look at if you are lucky enough to stumble across one. Solomon Islands (1980,
the name WE Oddie for
fruit and flowers to attract a mate. They are living jewels, but to see them Although long classified as a bird of paradise, genetic studies have recently now also available on CD)
his serious ornithological
you will need to enlist the skills of an experienced New Guinean bushman; indicated that it is a highly specialised honeyeater! are both highly useful.
writings.
these days, such people are often older men who speak no English, for the
younger generation spends less and less time in the forest. Other Regions
If you can get well away from the villages, perhaps by accompanying New Guinea’s more isolated mountain ranges and islands are biological
experienced bushmen on a two- or three-day walk to distant hunting places of their own. The Torricelli Mountains in New Guinea’s Sepik region
grounds, you might get to see a tree kangaroo. These creatures are rela- started out as an island archipelago, but now form part of the mainland.
tives of Australia’s rock wallabies which, five million years ago, took to the The mountains are home to a unique array of creatures, such as Tenkile, a
treetops. There are eight species in New Guinea, but in the central ranges black tree kangaroo that is one of the rarest creatures on earth. Perhaps just
you are likely to see just two. Goodfellow’s tree kangaroo is a chestnut- a few hundred survive in the forests south of Lumi, where a conservation
coloured creature the size of a Labrador. It has blue eyes, two golden programme is based which is trying to protect this last remnant. Even rarer
There are 42 species stripes running down its back and a tail ringed with gold. An eater of fruit, is Weimanke, a relative of Goodfellow’s tree kangaroo, which has a white face
of birds of paradise, of it is most commonly found in forests between 1500m and 2500m elevation. and golden ears; it is among the most beautiful of all mammals and only a Tim Flannery’s Throwim
which 36 are unique to Higher up you may encounter the bear-like Doria’s tree kangaroo. It is handful survive to the east of Lumi. If you’re fortunate enough to hike into Way Leg (1999) is a
New Guinea. Two species shaggy, brown and immensely powerful, and lives in family groups. the mountain forests that are home to these creatures, you’ll find a misty tremendously enjoyable
are found in both New Walking through the mountain forests at night you enter another envi- wonderland of abrupt gullies and ridges, the summits of which are adorned account of his adventures
Guinea and northern Aus- ronment. The trunks of great fallen trees, which by day are invisible under with grand palms bearing bright red fruit. Here the black sicklebill dwells, as a biologist in remote
tralia. The male Raggiana a mass of leaf-litter, are lit up by luminous fungi. You can often follow the its explosive call of ‘blak, blak’ drawing attention to this long-tailed creature, New Guinea. It’s rich,
decorates the flag of PNG. shattered trunks through the forest for tens of metres. And everywhere are whose dark plumage glistens with the colours of the rainbow. rollicking and imbued
Birds of paradise first the glowing green parasols of luminous mushrooms. In the trees you might The islands of southeastern New Guinea hold their own wonders. Muyua with an appealing sense
appeared in European spy some of New Guinea’s marsupials. Among the more common are the Island (Woodlark), the most remote of the Trobriands group, is home to of wonder; don’t land
literature in 1522. cat-sized, coppery ringtail possum. Its name comes from its fur, which ap- a primitive cuscus, each individual of which is – rather like a tabby cat – without having read it.
pears to be tipped with burnished copper. It’s a peaceful leaf-eater, which differently marked. Goodenough, just south of Kiriwina Island, is a huge spire
lives in tree-hollows or even in burrows underground. If you’re fortunate of rock whose mountain forests give refuge to a unique mountain wallaby
you’ll see a triok, a black-and-white striped animal the size of a kitten. It whose outer fur is black while the underfur is white. It’s a long-isolated relic
has a long, skeletal finger (which it uses to ‘fish’ for wood-boring grubs), of Australia’s Pliocene period of five million years ago, but to see it you will
a raucous screech, and it stinks like a skunk. need to climb hard for two days to reach its habitat.
52 ENVIRONMENT •• Soloman Islands lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 53
Australia and New The Bismarck Archipelago is home to spectacular fruit bats, including
Guinea have the world’s the largest of them all – the great flying fox, whose wingspan can approach WILDLIFE SPOTTING
only macropods and 1.5m. The more petite Bismarck flying fox is the size of a pigeon and has a Good places to see wildlife:
monotremes. The Agile boldly patterned black-and-white face as if it’s wearing a mask, and, unusually
Wallaby is found in New Ambua Lodge (PNG; p174) In comfort; in the Tari Gap, Southern Highlands.
among mammals, the males’ breasts produce milk.
Guinea and Australia, but Kumul Lodge (PNG; p169) Specialist birders’ lodge in Enga Province, 40 minutes from
most of New Guinea’s SOLOMON ISLANDS Mt Hagen.
macropods are endemic The Solomon Islands represent a whole other environment, for they are an Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Area (PNG; p160) For the more adventurous; in the
tree-kangaroos that are ancient island archipelago that has never been connected to a continent. The Southern Highlands area.
quite distinct to cuscus found there only reached the islands a few thousand years ago with
Australian species of Karawari Lodge (PNG; p199) In pristine lowland rainforest in the foothills of East Sepik
people. The true endemics are giant rats, monkey-faced bats, and unusual Province.
kangaroo and wallaby. birds such as the Guadalcanal honeyeater. The giant rats are rare now, but
you might be fortunate enough to spot one of the half-dozen species in dense, Walindi Plantation Resort (PNG; p227) Walindi is famous amongst divers, but also attracts
virginal forest. One of the largest species makes nests like those constructed by lots of birdwatchers.
eagles, in the tallest rainforest trees. One other aspect of the Solomons fauna Labu Tali Conservation Area (PNG; p135) Huge hawksbill and leatherback turtles nest here
is a radiation of frogs that is unique. Some look like dead leaves, others like between November and March.
lumps of moss, while one genus, which is often found in caves, is gigantic, Wau Ecology Institute (PNG; p139) Butterflies bred here supply collectors all around the
reaching over 20cm long. world.
Ohu Butterfly Habitat (PNG; p146) This community conservation project breeds butterflies,
NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE MANAGEMENT AREAS including PNG’s huge birdwing varieties.
Land is protected in various ways in PNG. There are few national parks;
the most accessible is Varirata National Park (p83), although you may also Jais Aben (PNG; p146) Easy access for divers and snorkellers to a stunning variety of marine
David Attenborough’s find yourself in national park areas at Mt Wilhelm and Lake Kutubu (p172). wildlife.
BBC documentary There are also various regional parks, wildlife sanctuaries and, arguably of Kau Rainforest Museum & Wildlife Area (PNG; p147) Pioneering wildlife management area
Attenborough in Paradise most interest to visitors, wildlife management areas, such as that at Crater operated by the Didipa people.
is the definitive work on Mountain Wildlife Management Area (p160). Rennell (p279) in the Solomon
Teptep Guesthouse (PNG; p150) High up in the Finisterre Range. Near the guesthouse is a
birds of paradise. You Islands is World Heritage listed.
tree kangaroo conservation program.
could spend years in the Creating ‘national parks’ as such has proved ineffective in Melanesia,
bush and not see some of largely because the main form of land tenure is clan-based ownership. As a Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (PNG; p208) Situated within the Tonda Wildlife Management Area
the behaviours recorded result Melanesian conservationists have now turned to the development of in a vast floodplain that’s home to Rusa deer, crocodiles, wallabies, wild pigs, birds and giant
there. wildlife management areas as the main tool for conserving the environment. barramundi.
In these areas, local landowners have agreed to set land aside for wildlife on Wilderness Lodge (SI; p269) Crocodile-watching excursions are organised here in the
the basis that tourism or some other form of income generation will make southern part of Marovo Lagoon.
this worthwhile.
Uepi Island Resort (SI; p267) Great for seeing giant monitor lizards and coconut crabs.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Maravagi Resort (SI; p262) This is a good place to see manta rays gliding by in Sandfly
Threats to the environment of PNG and the Solomon Islands are, to the passage.
outsider, rather surprising in nature. The media frequently run stories on Tetepare Island eco-lodge (SI; p266) Famous for its turtles and turtle breeding grounds.
how mining and logging are the main threats. These differ in their impact, Kuila Village Stay (SI; p263) This is a great place for seeing Savo’s megapodes.
so they need to be treated separately. Mining often has a very adverse local
impact, notorious examples being the destruction of the Carstensz Meadow
Many people in PNG
and pollution of the Aikwa River by mining company PT Freeport Indonesia So what are the main threats to Melanesia’s biodiversity? An inexor-
can’t access safe water or
(in neighbouring West Papua) and pollution of the Ok Tedi River by Ok able growth in human population, especially in the Highlands, has already
toilets. In the highlands
Tedi Mining. Overall, such activities are so limited in scope that they do not caused the extinction of many populations of larger animals and without The New Guinea cuscus is
Kup Women for Peace
threaten the extinction of entire species. Changes in local culture following doubt represents the most immediate threat. This has occurred in concert closely related to Austral-
is working with Oxfam
the advent of mining, however, can have larger impacts. Bulmer’s fruit bat with a breakdown in traditional taboos that previously protected many ia’s possums. Tradition-
(www.oxfam.org.nz) and
almost became extinct in the 1970s when traditional taboos broke down and species. Tree kangaroos, harpy eagles and other larger animals have de- ally cuscuses are eaten
WaterAid (www.water
shotguns became more available in the Ok Tedi area (it is reported that shot- clined precipitously in recent decades and many are slated for extinction and their fur is still used
aid.org.au) to gain the
guns were given as payment for the company’s exploration geologists). unless something is done. In the Solomons this has been exacerbated by in making Highlands hats
intertribal cooperation
Logging has a more widespread impact, but is mostly limited to lowland the introduction of cats, black rats and other exotics that have caused and bilums. Cuscuses are
necessary to allow water-
areas. Because New Guinea’s lowlands are extensive, and log quality is gener- extinctions. The recent establishment of macaques in West Papua may endangered – products
pipes to cross traditional
ally poor when compared to forests elsewhere, logging has not as yet directly threaten a similar wave of extinction in New Guinea. containing their fur are
land boundaries.
threatened species with extinction. In the Solomon Islands, logging is much The greatest long-term threat to Melanesia is global warming. Most of the confiscated by Australian
more of a threat, both because more of the land area is slated to be logged region’s biodiversity lives in the mountains, so when the earth warms these, customs.
and because some species depend on very large areas of virgin forest. species will be pushed off the mountain summits, a process that could destroy
© Lonely Planet Publications
54 E N V I R O N M E N T • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l I s s u e s lonelyplanet.com
Diving in
Papua New Guinea
& Solomon Islands
Many professional underwater photographers rate diving in PNG and the
Solomons as the acme of their career – evidence that both countries have a
strong visual appeal below the surface. Think a resplendent tapestry of hard and
soft corals, colourful fish life, dizzying drop-offs and a smorgasbord of historic HOW MUCH?
WWII ship and plane wrecks, all enveloped in warm waters year-round. Introductory dive: US$100
Rounding off the picture are the almost complete lack of overdevelop- (not including equipment
ment, the magnetic beauty of the islands and the coast, and well-established rental)
dive operations offering personalised service. There’s also the thrill of explor-
Single dive: US$55-75
ing virtually uncharted territories aboard live-aboard dive vessels.
(not including equipment
You don’t need to be a strong diver to sample such variety. Sure, a
rental)
number of sites are accessible only to advanced divers, but you’ll also find
a profusion of relaxing, uncomplicated dive sites. Two-tank dive: US$120-
It’s not the cheapest place on earth to dive, though. However, diving in a 140 (not including
forgotten paradise is a priceless privilege. equipment rental)
Equipment rental: US$20-
DIVING CONDITIONS 40 daily
Average surface sea temperatures vary between 25°C and 30°C. You won’t
Open-water certification:
need anything more than a 3mm wetsuit. Both PNG and the Solomons are
about US$600
diveable year-round although conditions vary according to the season, the
prevailing winds and the tides. Visibility varies a lot, from a low of 10m
at certain sites to a maximum of 40m.
DIVE CENTRES
Both PNG and the Solomons boast highly professional dive shops which
employ well-trained instructors. Most dive centres provide personalised
0 200 km
Diving in Papua New Guinea & Solomon Islands 0 120 miles
Kavieng
BISMARCK SOUTH
SEA PACIFIC
Rabaul OCEAN
PAPUA
NEW GUINEA
SOLOMON
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SEA
Marovo
Gizo Lagoon
Gulf of Munda
Papua Tulagi
Tufi Russell
Islands Guadalcanal
Port Moresby
Torres Strait
Milne Bay
SOLOMON
SEA
AUSTRALIA CORAL
SEA
56 PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • P o r t M o re s b y & A r o u n d 57
attention and favour small groups. They offer a whole range of services
and products such as introductory dives, night dives, exploratory dives, ALL ABOARD!
and certification programs. Most dive centres are PADI-, SSI- or NAUI- For hardcore divers, there are live-aboard dive boats operating out of various locations in PNG
affiliated, three certifying agencies that are recognised internationally. and the Solomons to access remote locations. They usually schedule seven- to 14-day cruises.
Centres welcome certification from any training agency, but may ask you Check out their websites for itineraries. Some boats and their base ports:
to do a check-out dive to assess your skills. Barbarian II (www.niuginidiving.com) Lae, Morobe.
The dive sites presented In the Solomons, most operators are land-based. In PNG, you can choose Bilikiki & Spirit of Solomon (www.bilikiki.com) Honiara, Solomon Islands.
are only a sample of the from live-aboard dive boats or land-based operations. Chertan (www.chertan.com) Alotau, Milne Bay.
dozens available. For Diving in PNG or the Solomons is expensive in comparison to most desti- FeBrina (www.febrina.com) Walindi, New Britain.
more information about nations in Asia or the Caribbean. Generally, prices don’t include equipment Golden Dawn (www.mvgoldendawn.com) Port Moresby.
diving in PNG, see Lonely rental, so it’s not a bad idea to bring at least part of your gear if you plan Marlin 1 (www.marlin1charters.com.au) Alotau, Milne Bay.
Planet’s Diving & many dives. Most dive shops accept credit cards. Moonlighting (www.blueseacharters.com) Madang.
Snorkelling Papua New Spirit of Niugini (www.spiritofniugini.com) Milne Bay.
Guinea. It details 115 dive
sites, with full-colour
photos throughout.
PAPUA NEW GUINEA Star Dancer (www.peterhughes.com) Kimbe, New Britain.
Telita (www.telitadive.com) Alotau, Milne Bay.
Papua New Guinea offers truly world-class diving. The marine biodiversity
is exceptional, incredibly healthy reefs look like an underwater Garden of To the north, just off Wongat Island, the tugboat Henry Leith sits upright
Eden and the absence of crowds on the sites is a prime draw. And as on in 20m and makes for an easy dive, while the coral-encrusted B25 Mitchell
land, there’s a sense of adventure to spice up the diving. Another clincher is aircraft lies in less than 15m.
the mind-boggling array of wrecks – of ships, aircraft and even submarines, See p142 for dive centres in Madang.
mainly from WWII.
You will find excellent diving facilities in Port Moresby, Madang, PORT MORESBY & AROUND
Milne Bay, Rabaul, Kavieng, Kimbe and Tufi, among other places. Or you Port Moresby has probably the best diving of any capital city in the world,
could get away from it all and explore remote areas aboard a live-aboard with a wide variety of dive sites easily accessible from the Dive Centre
dive boat. (p76) based on Loloata Island (p90). A few minutes’ boat ride from your
bungalow is a WWII aircraft wreck, the Boston A20 Havoc, resting in 18m
MADANG on a silty bottom. Further south is another prime wreck, the 65m-long
Madang’s outer reefs support diverse marine life. Hot favourites include Pig Pacific Gas, formerly a liquid-gas carrier, which was scuttled in 1986 for
Island and nearby Barracuda Point, Magic Passage and Pig Passage. You’ll likely recreational diving. Depth ranges from 14m at the bow to 43m at the
come across aggregations of barracuda, trevallies and sweetlips, as well as propeller.
photogenic barrel sponges and a variety of soft and hard corals. Some sites More classic dives can be found around Horseshoe Reef, especially the
are subject to powerful currents, depending on tidal changes. End Bommie, famous for its fish life and healthy corals. Another wonderful
Much closer to Madang is Planet Rock. This perennial fave features a site (further west) is Suzie’s Bommie, with a big pinnacle rising from the sandy
submerged seamount around which barracuda, tuna, snappers, jacks and floor to about 12m below the surface – an oasis of life.
whitetip reef sharks whirl. Loloata is also noted for its superb muck-diving potential. A few finstrokes
from your bungalow, Loloata Island Jetty features lots of tiny critters and bizarre
fish, from mantis shrimp to dwarf lionfish. There’s a
YOUR FIRST FINSTROKES Nothing’s perfect, though. One weak point is visibility, which sometimes decompression chamber
Both PNG and the Solomons are great places to learn to dive, with year-round warm waters, doesn’t exceed 10m. for divers in Honiara and
glittering blue seas, experienced instructors, shallow reefs, and the guarantee to see tropical Other highly regarded sites in the area: in Port Moresby. DAN
species and fantastic wrecks: all this set against idyllic backdrops. Big Drop An impressive drop-off, with marauding sharks and rays. (Divers Alert Network;
Just about anyone in reasonably good health, including children aged eight and over, can Nadine’s Passage Huge fields of soft corals and spectacular walls. www.danseap.org)
sign up for an introductory dive (from US$100). Dives typically take place in shallow (3m to Pai A 25m-long fishing trawler, with lots of resident species. provides insurance and
10m) water and last about 30 minutes (the whole session lasts about three hours). Divers are emergency evacuation for
escorted by a divemaster. TUFI travelling divers.
If you enjoy your introductory dive, you might want to enrol in an Open Water course. Expect it to Tufi (p107) is pure bliss if you’re looking for variety. Fancy muck diving?
last about four days, including a few classroom lectures and open-water training. Once you’re certified, Try Tufi Wharf, which is just on your doorstep. In the mood for wreck
your C-card is valid permanently and recognised all over the world – it’s like a driving licence. dives? The scattered remains of two PT boats can be seen at 40m directly
In PNG, the greatest variety of instruction is found around the Port Moresby area, where many down the Tufi Wharf. Too gentle for you? Make a beeline for the S’Jacob,
of the expats get certified. In the Solomons, Guadalcanal, Munda, Marovo Lagoon and Gizo are a Dutch merchant ship that was sunk during a Japanese air raid during
the best places to learn to dive. WWII; this ship is for experienced divers only (she lies in 60m). And there
One proviso: take note that it’s probably more economical to get initial certification at home are fabulous offshore reefs, including Cyclone Reef, Veale Reef, Mulloway and
prior to coming to PNG or the Solomons as instruction here is not cheap. Stewart Reef.
See p108 for the dive centre in Tufi.
58 PA P UA N E W G U I N E A • • M i l n e B a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SOLOMON ISLANDS 59
Seminole A US tugboat that lies east of the John Penn in 40m, on a sandy bottom. Low visibility
DIVING WITH A CONSCIENCE due to runoff but lots of fish life.
Please consider the following tips when diving to help preserve the ecology and beauty of reefs:
See p253 for dive centres in Honiara.
Encourage dive operators in their efforts to establish permanent moorings at appropriate
dive sites. TULAGI
Practice and maintain proper buoyancy control. There are superb sunken WWII shipwrecks in the vicinity of Tulagi Harbour,
Minimise your disturbance of marine animals and avoid touching living marine organisms including the monster-sized USS Kanawha, a 150m-long oil tanker which
with your body or equipment sits upright, and the USS Aaron Ward, a 106m-long US Navy destroyer that’s
noted for its extensive arsenal of big guns. The catch? They lie very deep
Take great care in underwater caves, as your air bubbles can damage fragile organisms.
(the Kanawha lies in 45m and the Aaron Ward in 65m) and are accessible
Take home all your trash, and any litter you may find as well. to experienced divers only. OK, you want something less intimidating…ask
Never stand on corals, even if they look solid and robust. for the Moa, a New Zealand minesweeper which rests in less than 40m, or the
Japanese seaplanes, in less than 30m. Visibility is not the strong point here;
Do not buy or collect seashells, and do not buy any turtleshell products.
expect 10m to 15m on average.
Dive with a local dive operator that follows high safety, ethical and professional standards. There are also awesome reef dives, such as Twin Tunnels, which features
two chimneys (in fact two lava tubes) that start on the top of a reef in about
12m and descend to a cavern and exit on the reef wall at about 35m. Strong
In many respects diving in the Solomons is similar to diving in PNG. One currents usually mean pelagic action. Another signature dive, Sandfly Passage
main difference is that most dive operations are land-based, whereas PNG is an exhilarating wall-drift dive – you’ll feel as though you’re gliding, ac-
is famous for its excellent live-aboard dive fleet. But what really sets the companied by a procession of fish. And there’s Manta Passage, near Maravagi,
Solomons apart is a sense of ‘forgotten paradise’ that can’t be found anywhere one of the Solomons’ secret highlights, with regular sightings of huge manta
else. PNG may be a better established dive destination, but diving connois- rays – fabulous!
seurs are finding that the Solomons offer great experiences too. See p262 for the dive centre in Tulagi.
If you’re a certified diver,
GUADALCANAL
Wrecks galore! With such turbulent history, it’s no surprise that Guadalcanal RUSSELL ISLANDS bring your C-card and
Shhh…these are the Solomons’ best-kept secret. The Russell Islands (p263) your dive logbook.
has number of world-class sunken WWII vessels lying close to the shore.
Most sites can be reached by car from Honiara. have absolutely pristine sites, a dramatic topography and stellar visibility due
Rejoicing begins with Bonegi I & II, about 12km west of Honiara. Bonegi I, to regular currents. The only way to dive this sensational world is to sign up
a giant-sized Japanese merchant transport ship, also known as the Hirokawa for a cruise with the MV Bilikiki or the MV Spirit of Solomon (www.bilikiki
Maru, lies in 3m of water descending to 55m, just a few finstrokes offshore. .com). Both live-aboards schedule cruises to the Russells from Honiara.
This 172m ship features just about everything a wreck diver hopes for: great
coral growth, lots of atmosphere, excellent fish life, safe penetration, artefacts MUNDA
and a manageable diving range. Munda (p264) offers a good balance of wreck and reef dives. A 25-minute
About 500m further west, the upper works of Bonegi II, also known as boat ride from Munda, Shark Point is a sloping reef that seldom fails to produce
Kinugawa Maru, break the surface, a towel’s throw from the beach. Its stern good sightings of grey reef sharks, silvertips, devil rays, snappers, batfish and
reaches down to 27m. turtles, but you’ll have to go very deep (around 50m) to see the marauding
Then comes Ruaniu, also known as Bonegi III, about 4.5km west from sharks. Nearby Top Shelf features top-notch coral gardens and varied fish life.
Bonegi II, which features another 140m Japanese transport ship, the Kyushu In the same area, Susu Hite is a relaxing dive on a lively reef in less than 20m –
Maru. Average depth ranges from 6m to 45m. Behind the Kyushu Maru lie perfect for novices. A few finstrokes from Susu Hite, The Pinnacle refers to
two other wrecks, including the humongous Azumasan Maru, said to be the a massive bommie which acts as a magnet for manta rays and grey sharks.
most atmospheric wrecks off Guadalcanal, but they lie deep (beyond 40m).
Despite its proximity to the shore, access can be tricky if the sea is choppy
(this author got wicked coral cuts when trying to access the site).
At Ndoma, don’t miss the wreck of the US B-17 Flying Fortress bomber which FRANCK BOULAY’S UNDERWATER PARADISE
lies 100m offshore in less than 18m – perfect for novices. A French-Australian citizen and a dive instructor based in the Solomons since 1993, Franck Boulay
At Veuru, about 42km from Honiara, the Japanese I-class submarine I-23 has dived all over the archipelago and runs a dive shop in Honiara. ‘I have never gotten bored
is 350m from the shore on a nearby reef, from 5m to 30m. It has largely in almost 15 years of diving here. What sets the Solomons apart is the unique combination of
collapsed but the ballast tanks are still clearly visible and it’s a haven for accessible wrecks and virgin reefs, with the added lures of the warmest waters in the world and a
small fish. sensational, preserved ecosystem.’ His favourite wrecks? ‘The USS Aaron Ward, for its photogenic
Also on the menu, east of Honiara: perspective, and the Azumasan, for the atmosphere and the scenery.’ He also raves about the
John Penn This large US-troop ship was bombed and sunk about 4km offshore, east of Honiara. Nggelas: ‘There’s a site where sightings of big manta rays are almost guaranteed.’ Another sug-
For experienced divers only. Boat access. gestion, Monsieur Boulay? ‘Be sure to tell your readers that it’s now perfectly safe here in the
Searpens Not far from the John Penn, but closer to the shore, this big ship lies upside down. Solomons and sites are uncrowded’. Duly noted.
Average depth is from 20m to 40m. Boat access.
© Lonely Planet Publications
62 SOLOMON ISLANDS •• Nor th Marovo Lagoon lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • G i z o 63
The typical dive plan consists of swimming around the pinnacle. Sadly, most reef species will keep you entertained while you cruise along the drop-off
corals at this site were damaged during the tsunami in 2007. dripping with luscious corals and seafans. Another highlight is the dramatic
Seasoned divers shouldn’t miss the opportunity to sample the Cave of the underwater terrain, with lots of cavelets and undercuts. Off Kicha Island (the
Kastom Shark. Descend vertically through a chimney down to 13m, follow a furthest of the lot), End of the World, Fantastic Fans and Picnic are well worth the
tunnel and exit at about 25m into the cobalt open water. 30-minute boat ride. Here again, expect a constant parade of reef tropicals,
Wreck fans will be spoiled here too by the following sites: dramatic drop-offs and scenic ridges. Fantastic Fans says it all: the drop-offs
Casi Maru A Japanese boat, in less than 20m. Visibility is often very reduced due to silt after are embellished with seafans the size of an Austin Rover.
heavy rains (logging!). Off Male Male Island, you’ll strike gold at Golden Dawn, which features
Corsair A WWII US fighter that rests undamaged close to the shore on a sandy bottom, in about 50m. undulating ridges dripping with golden soft corals, and Male Male North, an
SBD Douglas Dauntless Bomber This US plane lies on a sandy bottom in 12m in Rendova excellent shallow dive with lots of tiny critters. Surface intervals are usually
Harbour. It’s fun to sit in the intact cockpit. It’s usually handled as a third dive. spent picnicking on one of the islands.
Too good to be true? Well, yes, there are sometimes big swells between
See p264 for the dive centre in Munda. the mainland and the three islands, which may make access to the sites
tricky. Luckily, there are alternative sites along Nggatokae’s shoreline, up
Go to www.pngdive.com NORTH MAROVO LAGOON to Dovelei Island to the north.
for more information on This is Uepi Island Resort territory. And heaven on earth for a diver. The See p267 for the dive centre in South Marovo Lagoon.
diving in PNG. Kellys, who run the resort and the in-house dive shop, have done a wonderful
job in promoting this exceptional dive area, which has a vibrant assemblage GIZO
of dramatic walls (on the ocean side), exhilarating passages (especially Unspoiled reefs plus dense marine life plus spectacular wrecks equals memo-
Charapoana Passage, just on the resort’s doorstep) and uncomplicated reef rable dive sites for all levels. On the minus side, the 2007 tsunami did wreak
dives, all within close reach of the resort. They also offer daytrips to further havoc on a few charismatic sites (particularly Grand Central Station, north of
dive sites, near Seghe. It’s also a good place to learn to dive. Gizo, and Hotspot, east of Gizo, where huge coral fields were battered), but
A few favourites: overall it’s not too bad in other places. The local dive centre continues to
Bapita Sinkhole, Penguin Reef, Taiyo Fishing Boat Wreck, Lockheed P38 wreck & offer Grand Central Station and Hotspot for their amazing fish life (including
Dauntless Dive-Bomber Aircraft wreck Four dives that are combined in a not-to-be-missed sharks), but we found it depressing to hover over coral rubble.
full-day excursion, near Seghe. The Sinkhole features a vertical shaft that exits at 28m into the Luckily, the Toa Maru is still in good shape. The best wreck dive around,
deep blue. Very scenic. The P38 is just off Seghe airstrip and is in good condition. Nearby is the this well-preserved 140m Japanese freighter lies a mere 15 minutes away
Dauntless SPDA22, in only 10m. north of Gizo. Penetration of the hull is possible, and there’s still crockery,
BOTCH Stands for ‘Bottom of The Channel’. Drift dive on the sandy bottom of Charapoana Passage, sake bottles, ammunition, gas masks, medical supplies, anti-aircraft guns,
just off the dive shop. a motorcycle and two small tanks. Lying on the starboard side, the vessel In Gizo, the local dive
Deku Dekaru Three caves that are carved into the reef. A photographer’s delight, with much is only 100m from shore and resting from about 18m down at her bow to centre offers two-tank
twisting and turning and light play in the caves. Maximum depth is 6m. around 37m at her stern. dives. You spend your
Elbow Caves A network of gutters are carved into the reef wall. Sunbeams play through skylights Just off Fatboys (p270), Kennedy Island is a lovely spot to learn to dive, often surface interval at
in the caves – magical. with a parade of reef fish to observe on the sprawling reef. There’s also a steep Fatboys or picnicking on
Elbow Point On the outer reef. A magnificent drop-off, lavishly draped with seafans. Good wall that will keep advanced divers happy. Nearby One Tree Island is another an idyllic island.
chances to spot pelagics. must-see dive, with lots of fish action. In the same area, Naru Gap, Inside Naru
Manga Passage A deep-water passage, about 30 minutes by boat north of the resort. Fantastic and Gap Out have coral growths (fairly well preserved despite some damage
coral walls. caused by the 2007 tsunami), copious tropical fish and large pelagic creatures.
North Log & South Log Easy dives on the outer reef. Feature a series of overhangs. Yellow Corner, on the outer reef south of Naru Island, will make your spine
Point to Point You navigate across Charapoana Passage, from Charapoana Point to Uepi Point, tingle, with a parade of biggies and a profusion of yellow-tinged soft corals
amid schooling reef species and pelagics. For seasoned divers only. which enhance the visual appeal of the site.
Uepi Point An iconic dive site, on the ocean side of the passage. Sizzles with electric fish action – Rounding out Gizo, we must mention a small Hellcat lying on a sandy
sharks, jacks, barracuda, trevallies – with the added lure of an exceptional backdrop of corals, floor in 9m, to the southeast of Kennedy Island. It’s a fun dive that’s usually
seafans and sponges. combined with Secret Spot, a first-class dive site famous for its schooling fish
and atmospheric seascape, with a mix of sandy valleys and a sheer wall.
See p267 for the dive centre in North Marovo Lagoon. See p271 for the dive centre in Gizo.
You’ll see plenty of coconut husks lying around, particularly in the island
Food & Drink provinces of PNG and in the Solomons. The milk from a green coconut is
drunk or used in cooking (such as in a mumu, p66), and the flesh is also
used in preparing food.
While Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands are still not primary A legacy of WWII is the prevalence and popularity of canned meat and
destinations for the gourmet traveller, the culinary scene has improved fish. Locals prefer tinned fish (tinpis) to fresh fish, and whole supermarket
markedly in recent years. While wonderful seafood can be found on the aisles are devoted to bully beef (buli). Rice (rais) is eaten with virtually The yam is sacred in the
coasts and islands, the rest of the traditional diet consists largely of bland, every meal. Although local cuisine seems monotonous and unimagina- Trobriand Islands but a
Captain John Moresby starchy vegetables that become tedious. Which bland vegetable is served tive, produce available at markets is varied and excellent. You’ll see growing population and
must have enjoyed depends where you are. In the Highlands, probably it will be kaukau (sweet capsicums, tomatoes, peanuts, avocados and spectacular fresh tropical limited food source has
the meal he ate when potato), on the islands, it’s taro or yam. In some places you might be offered fruit. In the Highlands you can sometimes get strawberries, cauliflower seen some locals dismiss
he landed on Samarai all three. With little to inspire them, locals generally take a ‘food for fuel’ and broccoli. their local yams in favour
Island in 1873, because attitude to eating, though this changes for celebrations so if you get an of the more flavoursome
he promptly named it invite, don’t turn it down. DRINKS and plentiful African yam.
Dinner Island. Perhaps There are no restaurants dedicated to traditional food and you really Most of the coffee grown in the PNG Highlands is Arabica and it’s excellent.
not wanting to encourage need to get into a village (or find a local friend in the city) to find it. But Elimbari is grown by smallholders in the Chuave region of Simbu Province
the cannibals nearby, the in the bigger towns, travellers can expect to eat pretty well in hotels and and is the best coffee in PNG. Many locals drink Nescafé. In coastal areas of
name was changed to resorts, and in the growing number of independent restaurants, which are PNG and throughout the Solomons young coconuts are a common source
Samarai. mostly Asian. These Asian restaurants are a good bet for vegetarians, and of liquid refreshment.
there’s always plenty of vegetables in the villages. However, in some places South Pacific Brewery in PNG produces three very good beers. SP Lager is
refusing food can be insulting, so vegetarians at mumus (pig feasts) should the everyday drink and comes in a short brown bottle known as a ‘brownie’.
sensitively suggest before the meal arrives that they don’t dig pig. Others The more expensive version is South Pacific Export Lager, and comes in a
might find the prospect of a slab of barely cooked blubbery pig-meat pretty clear bottle or white can. The ‘trendy’ new brew is Niugini Ice which, at 5.2%
hard to stomach even if they’re not vegetarian – discretion can be the bet- alcohol, packs a punch.
ter part of valour. Remember two things: first, in traditional Melanesian Australian wine and spirits are available in hotels and restaurants, though
society it is good manners for the host to wait until everyone else is eating they are not cheap – you’ll pay upwards of K45 for cheap and cheerful Papua New
before he or she eats (so you can’t just sit on your hands and say you’re not Aussie red. Guineans were banned
hungry), and second, in Melanesia good manners are everything! The local brew in the Solomons is Solbrew, which is a lager beer; Solbrew from consuming alcohol
SB is stronger. until 1963. Until that
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES time drinking was a
The staple food is saksak (sago) in the Sepik and other swampy areas of WHERE TO EAT & DRINK whites-only activity.
PNG. Saksak is basically pure starch, but where it is too swampy to grow Where you eat will depend on your budget, your sense of adventure and the Since then Papua New
There are some local anything else, it is vital. On the Sepik, dry saksak is usually mixed with size of the place you’re in. In towns and cities the ubiquitous kai bar will Guineans have taken to
dishes that might have water and fried into a rubbery pancake, but it can also be boiled into a probably lure you in for a snack at least once. Kai bars look and taste like beer drinking with relish.
you hesitating. In the gluey porridge. Mixed with grated coconut it becomes quite palatable, Australian milk bars of the late 1970s; that is, they sell meat pies (K2 to K3),
Sepik region frogs are but by itself it is almost tasteless. To make saksak, men cut down a sago sausage rolls (K2), deep-fried dough balls (K0.50) and, probably your best bet,
traditionally served up palm, cut away the bark and pound out the pith, leaving a fibrous sawdust. pre-prepared meals of indeterminable Asian origin (about K6). We haven’t
next to mice, spider or Women then knead the pith in a bark funnel, draining water through the listed many kai bars – just look for people milling around.
snake. Skewered sago pith to dissolve the starch. The starch-laden water is collected (often in The number and quality standards of restaurants is rising, though in both
grubs, roasted flying fox an old canoe) and the starch settles in an orange, glutinous mass at the PNG and the Solomons they’re found only in larger centres and resorts.
and python soup are bottom. In the Highlands the staple is kaukau (sweet potato). In taste, it Chinese restaurants predominate, ranging from cheap and cheerful places
considered good sources is virtually indistinguishable from staples elsewhere in the region, which with meals for about K10 to more elaborate affairs where you can spend
of protein. include taro, yams and cooking bananas. The situation is sometimes a upwards of K50. There is also the odd Japanese, Korean or Thai place in
little more inspiring along the coast because there is excellent seafood Port Moresby where meals cost about K45 to K70. Hotels and resorts all have PNG is the land of the
and the cooking makes heavier use of coconut and, increasingly, spices fairly good restaurants, with prices reflecting the quality of the establishment; biscuit. Kundu cracker
like ginger. Haibica is a stringy spinach-like vegetable often served as side expect to pay between K35 and K80 per meal. Tipping is not necessary, but is both a brand and
dish. It has a sharp, slightly bitter flavour. For recipes that reflect modern most restaurants add 10% VAT to the bill. the term for the large,
PNG cooking (such as chicken taro bake and yam patties), check out Hours can vary considerably, but in general restaurants open for lunch dry biscuits available
www.michie.net/png info/recipe1.html. from about 11.30am to 2.30pm and dinner from 6pm or 7pm until 10pm, from trade stores and
Because of the limited animal life, protein deficiency has traditionally or whenever the last diner leaves. Where the price of a meal is listed in this supermarkets. A good
been a problem. In many regions, potential game (reptiles, birds, rodents book, we are referring to a main dish plus one other course (usually a salad Kundu cracker is so tough
and small marsupials) is scarce but hunting is still important. Apart from or dessert) and a drink. you could send it home as
the fresh fish available on the coast and some rivers, pigs are the main source In villages you’ll eat whatever the villagers eat and pay between K15 and a postcard.
of meat protein, although they are generally saved for feasts (p66). Chicken K30. If you’re lucky enough to be around for a mumu (traditional under-
(kakaruk) is also quite popular. ground oven) the price will probably rise a bit to cover the cost of meat.
© Lonely Planet Publications
66 FOOD & DRINK •• Habits & Customs lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 67
PORT MORESBY
HISTORY by default – more attractive alternatives
PORT MORESBY
0 4 km
PORT MORESBY & AROUND 0 2 miles
iver
A B C D To Yule I; E F G H
Kerema
Goldie R
INFORMATION SLEEPING
Dive Centre..................................(see 3) Airways Hotel & Apartments......... 3 D3
NCD Tourist Office......................(see 8) Bluff Inn Motel................................4 F1 La
lok
1 UPNG Bookshop............................1 C2 Gateway Hotel...............................5 D3 i R 1
To Lea Lea Kokoda Trail Motel........................6 H2 ive McDonald's
r Corner
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
National Botanical Gardens............2 C2 Hombrum's Bluff
ὈὈ
Waigani Swamp To Owers' Corner
Lookout (8km); Kokoda
Track (8km)
Hwy
Bomana
War Cemetery 4
ano
Porebada GEREHU
Lalok
Hirit
i River
2
Rd
Napa Napa Rd 1 Rouna
i University of Rd Falls Kokoda
Barun ri
oge Monument
W
Papua New Guinea S Soge a Rd
ai
ri Rd
Subitan
ga
ni
ὈὈ ὈὈ
Mt Erima 6
2 2
Dr
Fairfax Harbour A
Boe
s Rouna
See Boroko t
WAIGANI Jacksons r
Vag
& Waigani o Crystal
Tatana I Map (p77) International l
i R
Malaria Airport a Rapids
Point
d
8 b Varirata
SEVEN
National Park
e
Wreck of MILE
MV MacDhui GORDONS 5
R
HOHOLA
Hwy
3
aig
Fwy
a
Morea-
ὄὄὄ
Haidana I Stilt Villages
an
na
Tobo Rd
i D
y
n
re
ra SIX
ur
po
g
Napa Napa W MILE
ro
ard M
rt
Po
Moresby Do
be
e
KONEDOBU sR gu
Harbour d H u ra
s
Idler's BOROKO Rd
3 Napa
ELA 3
Bay Napa
Stamava Pt Peninsula BEACH
TOWN KOKI
Ahearn Pt KOROBOSEA
7
Sc
Tau
rat
hle c ram
See Town Walter y Rd a Bootless
& Ela Beach Bay KILA
ὄὄὄὄὄ
Gemo I KILA SABAMA Bay
Rd
Map (p75) EATING
KC's Deli..........................................(see 3)
Joyce Koki Market.......................................7 C3
Lolorua I Bay Rattle 'n' Hum Pizzeria.....................(see 5)
M
ag
i
DRINKING
Hw
Daugo I Loloata I
Phoenix Bar......................................(see 4)
y
Manubada
(Local) I
ge
Avis..................................................(see 8)
Pa
Hertz................................................(see 5)
Jacksons International Airport............ 8 D2
k
s
li
si CORAL SEA MAF................................................(see 8)
Ba To Hula
Nateara Reef Beach Thrifty..............................................(see 3)
Pyramid Point (100km)
Maps INFORMATION Police (%000) K22; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Almost opposite
The best and most up-to-date maps of Port Bookshops Women’s counselling (%180 1991) Crowne Plaza.
Moresby are found in the front of the PNG Sadly, there is only one decent bookshop in Datec (Map p77; %303 1333; www.datec.com.pg;
telephone directory and the ubiquitous red Port Moresby, the UPNG Bookshop (Map pp70-1; Internet Access Waigani Dr, Gordons; per hr K20; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to
Nationwide Papua New Guinea Business & %326 7375; UPNG, Waigani Dr, Waigani; h8.30am-4pm Top-end hotels offer broadband internet ac- noon Sat) The fastest connection.
Street Directory. The free booklet Welcome Mon-Fri), and even that stocks mostly course- cess, and some have wi-fi access. Apart from
to Port Moresby, published a number of work materials and academic texts. Top-end the hotels, Port Moresby has few internet Libraries
times each year, has a simple centrefold map hotels have a few overpriced books and there cafés, their connections are only moderately National Library & Archives (Map p77; %325 6200;
with most places of interest clearly marked. are a couple of duty-free shops at the airport quick and they keep short hours. There are Independence Dr, Waigani; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm
It’s available at hotel reception desks and (past Immigration) that have some decent two in Town, one in Gordons and none Sat, 1-4pm Sun) An Independence gift from Australia, this
the like. books on PNG. Make sure you bring your own in Boroko. library houses a huge PNG collection.
The National Mapping Bureau (Map p77; %327 reading material because you can’t even buy a Fastlink Broadband Internet Café (Map p75; United
6223; [email protected]; Melanesian Way, Waigani; trashy airport novel in Port Moresby. Church Bldg, Douglas St, Town; per hr K15; h8am-5pm Medical Services
h8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) produces a huge two- Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Next to the historic church; fast con- Whatever the situation, it’s probably worth
part 1:10,000 street map of Port Moresby Emergency nections. Planning to open a branch in Boroko. calling one of the two clinics first.
(2000), which is also available as a far more Ambulance (%111) Datanets Internet Café (Map 000M02C; www.datanets.com Paradise Private Clinic (Map p77; %325 6022;
manageable book. Fire (%110, 321 3658) .pg; AON Haus; %320 0633; MacGregor St, Town; per hr Taurama Rd, Boroko; h24hr)
PORT MORESBY 72 P O R T M O R E S BY • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s 73
PORT MORESBY
Port Moresby General Hospital (Map p77; %324 network as well as the newcomer Digicel.
8200; Taurama Rd, Korobosea) These two systems don’t talk to each other, THE JACKSON’S AIRPORT JOB
Port Moresby Medical Centre (Map p77; %325 and when we visited Moresby many people On 19 November 2007 a Tropicair King Air C90 aircraft chartered by Bank South Pacific took off
6633; [email protected]; cnr Vaivai Ave & Mavaru St, Boroko; were carrying around two mobiles – one B from Jackson’s Airport in Port Moresby bound for Tabubil. Aboard were two Australian pilots,
h24hr) Best place in an emergency. Can arrange medi- Mobile and one Digicel. See p300 for more on AU$2million in cash (salaries for Ok Tedi mine workers)...and two sham security guards. The
vac and has a decompression chamber on site. the great telecommunications debacle. impostor security guards pulled their guns on the unsuspecting pilots and ordered them to
make for a disused WWII airstrip on Daugo (Fisherman’s) Island near the mouth of the Port
DENTISTS Tourist Information Moresby harbour.
Dr Richard Pickworth (Map p75; %321 1137, after Kokoda Track Authority (Map p77; %325 1887; Three more bandits were waiting to meet the hijackers and they bundled the two pilots into
hours 321 1298; Ground fl, Mogorn Motu Bldg, Champion [email protected], 1st fl, Brian Bell a boat headed for the mainland. The two muddy but unharmed pilots were later found by police
Pde, Town) Good reputation. Plaza, Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Statutory handcuffed to a tree in a swamp. After an exchange of gunfire four of the five bandits were ar-
Mills Dental Care (Map p75; %320 0600; 1st fl, body that administers activities related to the Kokoda rested, one was shot dead and the three boxes of money and several firearms were retrieved.
Deloitte Tower, Douglas St, Town) Track – it collects and distributes trekking fees, liaises with
landowners etc. Good place to come if you’re looking for a
Money guide or want to join a trek. anywhere. The most important thing is not sands are not full of sunbathers these days.
ANZ and Westpac are more efficient than NCD Tourism Office (Map pp70-1; Jackson’s Interna- to make yourself a target or put yourself in Even locals perceive this area as potentially
Bank South Pacific, where you’ll likely grow tional Airport; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Small, under- situations where you are vulnerable. It’s just unsafe. If you do swim here, you’ll attract a
old waiting to change your money. If you’re funded National Capital District tourism booth. common sense. lot of attention, but the biggest threat may be
changing cash or travellers cheques, ask for PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (TPA; Map p75; the shallow water, thick seaweed and black,
the international desk. See p296 for more %320 0211; 5th fl, MMI Haus, Champion Pde, Town; SIGHTS spiny and painful sea urchins – you might
on money. h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Provides limited informa- Most of Port Moresby’s few sights are in Town prefer to take to the waters at your hotel
tion on accommodation; it’s mainly about marketing and and the government district of Waigani, but swimming pool.
TOWN promotion. unless you have access to a boat you’ll run out
ANZ (Map p75; %180 1444; cnr Champion Pde & of interesting things to see within a couple Hanuabada
Musgrave St, Town) ATMs are more reliable than Westpac’s Travel Agencies of days. Past the docks to the north lies Hanuabada
ones. Can use Visa and MasterCard. Dove Travel (Map p77; %325 9800; fax 325 1451; (Map p75), the original Motu village.
Bank South Pacific (p75; %321 2444; cnr Musgrave & Angau Dr, Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) This Port Moresby City Although it is still built over the sea on stilts,
Douglas Sts) Agents for Western Union. Catholic-run agency is pretty well connected with all forms There is little of historical interest remaining the original wood and thatched houses were
Westpac (Map p77; %322 0888; cnr Musgrave & Doug- of transport in PNG plus international flights. Can also sug- in Port Moresby’s CBD, where office tow- destroyed by fire during WWII. They were
las Sts) Agent for American Express. In theory, ATMs work gest cheap sleeping options if you’re desperate. ers and neglect have steadily claimed much rebuilt in all-Australian building materials,
for Visa, MasterCard, Cirrus, Visa/PLUS, Maestro. There’s a Westpac Travel (Map p75; %322 0663; fax 322 0640; of the area. The oldest building still stand- corrugated iron and fibrocement, but it’s an
charge of K20 to change cash. Douglas St, Town) ing is the Ela United Church (Map p75; %321 7426; interesting place and the people have retained
Douglas St), opened by the London Missionary many traditional Motu customs.
BOROKO DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Society in 1890. St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral You cannot simply wander around the vil-
ANZ (Map p77; %180 1444; Hubert Murray Hwy) Has Port Moresby can be a dangerous place, but (Map p75; Musgrave St, Town) is not so old but it does lages if you are not a guest or if you don’t have
ATMs. it’s not the hell on earth that many who’ve have an impressive entrance portal in the style a local guide, but your hotel should be able to
Bank South Pacific (Map p77; %323 2288; cnr Nita never been here make it out to be. The vast of a Sepik haus tambaran (spirit house). The suggest someone.
St & Angau Dr) majority of visitors to Port Moresby leave Old Parliament Building (Map p75; MacGregor St, Town)
Westpac (Map p77; %322 0888; Nita St) unscathed, and if you use your common was never an architectural wonder, but its Koki
sense, you should be fine (see p291 for how opening as the House of Assembly in 1964 The picturesque stilt village of Koki, at the
Post to avoid trouble). was a significant milestone on PNG’s road to eastern end of Ela Beach, is worth visiting if
Boroko Post Office (Map p77; %300 3794; Tabari Pl, There are no guarantees and the situation independence. Sadly, the shell it has become you can find a local to take you. The best way
Boroko; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8-11.30am Sat) can change quickly, so ask the locals when you symbolises the country’s steady decline in re- to do that is by visiting the neighbouring Koki
Post Office (Map p75; %300 3797; cnr Cuthbertson arrive about what is safe, then make your own cent years; it’s occupied by squatters and buai- Market (off Map p75), one of the oldest and,
St & Champion Pde, Town; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to choice. Walking around Town and Boroko sellers. Despite its majestic hilltop position after a vast improvement in security, safest
11.30am Sat) during daylight hours should be absolutely overlooking Town and the port, there’s noth- markets in the city. Fresh produce and fish
fine, but anywhere else you should walk with a ing that indicates its former significance. straight off the boat are sold here, but even
Telephone local. Avoid secluded urban areas at any time; The harbour headland, Paga Point (Map if you’re not shopping for produce, it’s a col-
At least half of the phones at the airport and raskols (bandits) are not strictly nocturnal. p75), is adjacent to Town. It’s worth walk- ourful place to watch grassroots-style PNG
outside the post offices in Town and Boroko The view from Paga Hill in Town is terrific, ing to the top of Paga Hill for the fine views commerce. Don’t flash around your jewels or
should be working. See p300 about using the but don’t walk up there on your own. Stay over the town, the harbour and the encircling expensive cameras if you’re alone, but if you
excellent Telikad system. out of the settlements unless you are with one reefs, but don’t go alone. On the southern side go with a local (someone from your hotel,
Prepaid mobile start-up kits (including of the residents (that includes Hanuabada). of Town is the long, sandy stretch of Ela Beach perhaps) then carrying a camera shouldn’t
prepaid SIM cards) are available from the Don’t walk around Kila Kila, Sabama or (Map p75). The beachfront promenade is be a problem. Always ask before taking some-
government-owned PNG Telekom’s B Mobile Six Mile at any time. After dark, don’t walk a popular walk during the day, though the one’s picture; you’ll find them much more
PORT MORESBY 74 P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • S i g h t s 75
PORT MORESBY
0 400 m
VOICES: TONY TORE, THE BLACK SCOTSMAN
TOWN & ELA BEACH (PORT MORESBY CITY) 0 0.2 miles
Ch
KAEVAGA
ANZ Bank....................................1 B4 Asia Aromas...............................19 B4
am
Square or in Town. Government
pio
Bank South Pacific........................2 B4 Beachside Brasserie..................(see 17) House
n
1 Datanets Internet Café.................3 B4 Cafe.........................................(see 16)
Pd
House
Deloitte Tower.........................(see 22) Daikoku.....................................20 C2
St
Where did you learn to play the bagpipes? In the army. On 20 June 1968, I enlisted with
e
To Airport
bu
Dr Richard Pickworth...................4 B4 Ela Beach Cafe............................21 B5 (9km)
o
the Australian Defence Force’s Northern Command (back when New Guinea was an Australian nt
ed
Fastlink Broadband Internet Café..5 B4 Espresso Bar...............................22 B4
me
n
Ko
French Embassy.........................(see 1) Ichizen.....................................(see 19) rn
colony). I went to Australia in 1971 and 1985 with the PNGDF (Papua New Guinea Defence ve
Japanese Embassy........................ 6 A4 Go
Dr
wy
Force) Pipe Band. Mills Dental Care.....................(see 22) na F
pore
PNG Tourism Promotion HARBOUR Pore
CITY
Authority.............................(see 26) 18
20
Did you see active service in the army? In 1980 I was part of the Kumul Force of the PNGDF Police Station...............................7 B4
Post Office...................................8 A4 Field 2
that went to Vanuatu when Jimmy Stevens led a secessionist movement against Walter Lini’s Steamships Arcade...................(see 19)
government. The Kumuls helped put down the rebellion in two weeks without firing a shot. USA Embassy...............................9 A4
RPYC Marina
ὈὈ
Westpac Bank............................10 B4
I did two tours of duty to Bougainville (during the decade-long civil war), but I felt bad about 2
Westpac Travel........................(see 10)
Sir KONEDOBU
fighting against our PNG brothers. We had to enforce the blockade of the Bougainville Island
Pde
23 Hubert
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Murray
and rebel soldiers were starving in the mountains. Many just walked out of the bush and sur- Ela Beach....................................11 B5 Stadium
on
pi
rendered just to get some food. Conditions on Bougainville were very bad. Things got really Ela United Church......................12 B4
Munid
am
Field 1
La
t
Ch
Old Parliament Building..............13 B4 Cr
w
y
crazy in Bougainville. In 2001 the PNGDF downsized. Some of us are still fighting for our re-
es
a
ubu S
Paga Point.................................14 A5 Fw Av
iat bu
Rd
St Mary’s Catholic Cathedral......15 B5 a
en d St Ka
trenchment payment. or
t
R
ep rt
or Po Av
ὈὈ
SLEEPING P iat Elan
Marine Division St ese
Crowne Plaza.............................16 B4
So these days you play in the streets for people’s loose change? People are poor, they don’t Ela Beach Hotel..........................17 C4
(Naval) Base St
Ai
have much money to give. But they like my music. It’s good – when people listen to my pipes Weigh Inn Hotel........................18 C2 rv
os
they’re not fighting or robbing each other. Moresby used to be a beautiful place when the 3 Av
e
Australians were here (colonial times), but since PNG’s independence we have gone backwards.
Van
Cargo
The politicians are corrupt – they only look after themselves. Today Moresby is not safe, it’s not Terminal
ama
Moresby
Rd
clean. There’s buai (betel nut) everywhere. Cres
e
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
rt
Av
Harbour Container
Dr
Po
Touaguba Hill
Wharf
os
(167m)
ari
Aiv
vet
Do you see many tourists in Port Moresby? Some but not many. Sometimes a busload of
Da
Reserve
Dr
Pandora Cres
o
Japanese tourists will walk through the square here at Boroko and take photos of the bilum Main Wharf Shipping Companies Da
ug
Og
& Wharves Esp
sellers. Then they get on the bus again and are gone. Boroko is the main area for tourists; they
oa
y Reservoir
nle de
d
Sta 26 P
es R
ELA BEACH
St
can buy bilums (string bags) and carvings here. 24 or
Law
4 4 ampion 13 r eg
Hu
1 Ch 19 G
ac St
nte
ὈὈὈὈ
Portlock St
Cuthb
s M
Cre
rS
I’ve often seen soapbox preachers here in Boroko Square. Are you the only busker here? 6 12 3 St
Mus
8 5 St
t
10 27 St Chesterfield
Chalmers
ertson
glas 16
on
28
There are often preachers here in Boroko and they usually preach in Tok Pisin. Sometimes we
grav
u
Durville
o
St
D To Koki
pt
t Le H
Bo S St
am
29 ary Kermadec u
Hunte
nt (600m);
St
ug
e
9 M
get evangelists from America who preach in the square. They’re great performers, they’re well
Br
e Koki Market
He
Cr ainvi 2
17
TOWN
aly
es lle 22 erve Rd (600m)
7 ion Res
r St
dressed and get big crowds. ecreat Pd
Armit
h Rd
Ela Beac la Beach R e
St
25 E
St
Winter 11
Paga Hill Walter Bay
You get big crowds too! Your Scottish bagpipe music seems very exotic here in Port Moresby. St 15
t
ll S
Lookout
me
Yes, but people like my music. One time a drunk man came to watch me play. He had run away SHOPPING
Bra
Beyond Art.................................24 B4
from his wife. He went to the ATM, bought me a Coke and gave me K5. He said, ‘Music blo yu 21 Ela Beach Craft Market...............25 B5
tanim tingting blo mi (your music changed my mind).’ And he set off to apologise to his wife. 5
14 TRANSPORT
ENTERTAINMENT Air Niugini..................................26 B4
Ozzie's Bar...............................(see 17) Airlines PNG...............................27 B4
Pondo Tavern..........................(see 16)
amenable if you buy something. PMVs stop Highland design principles. The façade is Royal Papua Yacht Club.............23 C2
Qantas.......................................28
Town PMV Stop........................29
A4
B4
outside the market. quite stunning, with a mosaic featuring un-
mistakably PNG motifs. Photographers with
Parliament Haus wide-angle lenses will be rewarded with great Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing (the world’s Boroko costs about K15 or K20 from Town.
The impressive Parliament Haus (Map p77; %327 shots in the late afternoon light. largest with a 30cm wingspan) beetles and Alternatively, take a PMV along Waigani
7377; Independence Dr, Waigani; h8am-noon & 1-3pm Mon- The cavernous lobby is entered through some very large stick insects. The display Dr, get out at the white, empty Pineapple
Fri, or when parliament is sitting) was officially opened doors whose handles are stylised kundu cases are easy to miss; they’re under the Building, and walk about 2km northeast.
in 1984 with Prince Charles on hand. The drums (an hourglass-shaped drum with stairs. Photography inside Parliament Haus
main building is in the style of a Maprik, or lizard skin). Inside, huge Sepik masks is forbidden. National Museum
Sepik-style, haus tambaran, while the at- share space with several display cases full It’s possible to visit the chamber and wit- All the exhibits at the museum (Map p77;
tached, circular cafeteria building follows of fantastic butterflies, including the native ness parliament when it’s sitting. A taxi from Independence Dr, Waigani; admission K12; h8.30am-3.30pm
ὈὈ
PORT MORESBY 76 P O R T M O R E S BY • • A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • B o r o k o & W a i g a n i 77
PORT MORESBY
Mon-Fri, 1-3.30pm Sun), just beyond Parliament named by Captain Moresby after his ship, 0 800 m
Haus, sit under a fine film of dust. But you HMS Basilisk. The SS Pruth was wrecked on BOROKO & WAIGANI 0 0.5 miles
ὈὈ
can happily spend an hour or so looking at the nearby Nateara Reef (Map pp70–1M027) in 1924, A B
21
C D
19
displays that cover the geography, fauna, cul- and there’s the beautiful Sinasi Reef (Map Golf
ay INFORMATION
ture, ethnography and history of PNG. There pp70–1M028) outside the passage and the adjoin- ura
W Course
ANZ Bank....................................1 C5
Ko
are superb examples of masks, shields and ing Daugo Island (Map pp70–1M029), also known as 20
Australian High Commission.........2 B2
Bank South Pacific ......................3 C6
1
totems, a magnificent Milne Bay outrigger Fisherman’s Island, which has lovely stretches Boroko Police Station...................4 C5
s
Magani Cre
Independence Dr
canoe decorated in cowrie shells, and a display of white-sand beaches. Boroko Post Office.......................5 C6
British High Commission..............6 C2
12
showing how bilums are made. Photography 35 Datec...........................................7 B3
Kum
ACTIVITIES
Circuit
Dove Travel.................................8 C6
is not allowed, but you can take pictures of
ul
10 Indonesian Embassy ....................9 C2
the few birds, lizards and snakes living in The diving around Port Moresby is excellent.
Ave
Cricket 9 Kokoda Track Authority...........(see 39)
Ground Somare Korokist St
Waigani
National Library & Archives.........10 B1
Way
the courtyard. Bootless Bay has world-class diving over reefs Kekeke St National Mapping Bureau...........11 B2
11
Kitogara St
and WWII wreckage. Loloata Island (p90) is 6 New Zealand High Commission..12 C1
Nilkare Ave
n
esia
National Botanic Gardens Paradise Private Clinic................13 C6
Dr
n GORDON
a popular holiday spot for divers. The only M ela
NORTH Port Moresby General Hospital..14 C6
ὈὈ
At the northern end of Waigani Dr, just be- dive operator in Moresby itself is the Dive 2
Pineapple
Building ise
Dr
2
Port Moresby Medical Centre.... 15 D6
Gu
Solomon Islands High
yond the University of Papua New Guinea, Centre (Map pp70-1; %323 1355; www.divecentre.com hn
Ugava St
Commission...........................16 B4
Jo Sandpiper Rd
the National Botanic Gardens (Map pp70-1; %326 .pg; poolside at Airways Hotel & Apartments, Seven Mile). It Sir Westpac Bank............................17 C5
Godwit St
Wa
0248; www.ncbg.org.pg; Waigani Dr, Waigani; adult/child/ offers full PADI courses (K1175), equipment,
rds
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Wo
student/family K8/3/5/10; h9am-4pm) are an island air, and a wide range of diving and snorkelling St John Guise od Ecotrourism Melanesia...............18 B4
Strip
WAIGANI Stadium coc
k Rd National Museum.......................19 B1
of calm and beauty in the midst of an other- tours. A two-dive outing including all gear 32
Niugini Holidays.......................(see 24)
wise lacklustre city. Don’t miss them! There costs K275. Very professional. Paradise Adventure Tours........(see 23)
ὈὈ
26 37 t Parliament Haus.........................20 C1
Gord cui
is more than 2km of boardwalk threading A round at the well-managed Port Moresby Rd
on Cir Port Moresby Golf Club..............21 C1
under and through the jungle canopy, well- eron
Golf Club (Map p77; %325 5367; Waigani) costs K110,
a Fwy
Cam
Henao Dr
Ken
maintained lawns and gardens displaying plus K20 to hire clubs. ned
Henao Dr
Poreporen
3 33 y R
r
d
Hub
Dr land
both local and exotic plant species, and prob- Nua
Kanaga St
na R
Is
24 d
ert M
ably the best collection of native and hybrid TOURS 7
GORDON
Rd
orchids in PNG. There are also some excel-
urr
For organised tours that walk the Kokoda
W
34 e
rah
aig
ay H
Medaha
Va
Rd
lent wildlife displays, such as tree kangaroos, Track see p93. The companies listed here also
an
Ag
27
ara
i D
St
wy
St
Tam
hornbills, cassowaries, a giant python, and a offer Kokoda trekking, but they do Moresby-
Rd
r
23
Um
29
Mo
gila
large aviary that houses parrots and birds of based day tours also. Ahuia St St re
Magi
Soare St a-T
Ma
ob
Rd
St
paradise (the only chance most visitors get Ecotourism Melanesia (Map p77; %323 4518; www HOHOLA 16
18 oR
d
rds
Toi
to see them). 41
St
.em.com.pg; IEPNG House, Gordons) This is the best of the St
Wa
ui Goroa St
Munahu St
n wy
Morata St
locally owned tour operators (but by no means the cheap- Ku
Bo
F
4 na
ro
Koani St SLEEPING
Islands, Beaches & Reefs re
ko
31
est). They’ll customise tours to suit your needs. e po Comfort Inn...............................22 C6
Dr
Por
The wreck of the Burns Philp cargo ship Niugini Holidays (Map p77; %323 6486; www.ng Kaem
e ills
Gabaka St Hideaway Hotel.........................23
Holiday Inn................................24
D4
A3
MV MacDhui (Map pp701M02) can be seen just hols.com; Holiday Inn, Islander Dr, Hohola) Several pricey nH
St
EATING rd
e Jessie Wyatt House.................... 25 C6
Ga r
breaking the surface in Moresby Harbour, but professional day trips, including three-hour tours of Ang’s Restaurant....................... 31 C4 D
Lamana Hotel............................26
Magila Motel.............................27
A3
D3
Cellar.......................................(see 30)
off Hanuabada. It was sunk by Japanese air- Port Moresby Town (per person K135), full-day Town and Gordons Market.........................32 C3 Mapang Missionary Home.........28 C6
Ponderosa Family Hotel.............29 C4
craft in the early days of WWII. Its mast now Varirata National Park tours (K255) and full-day Taste of Grand Palace..............................33 B3
Shady Rest Hotel....................... 30 C6
W
Jepello.......................................34 A3
stands in front of the Royal Papua Yacht Club Kokoda Track tours (K745). The price per person falls as the
aig
Mr B Coffee Shop....................(see 39)
an
(Map p75). group size increases. Restaurant 168...........................35 A1
i D
Roundhouse Restaurant.............36 C5
r
Many expats have boats and the yacht club Cre
s
Or
5 Spirit Room..............................(see 23)
Sto
gi
oro
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Ha
is busy on weekends. If you play your charm Yun Sue Restaurant...................37 A3 Le
res
gw
Va
Cres
e
Av
iva
a
cards right, you might get asked out for the In early August the capital hosts the
Rd
ENTERTAINMENT Ok St
iA
r St
na
uD
MURRAY ari
Bo
ki
v
day. Manubada (Local) Island (Map pp70–1M024) is Gold Club................................(see 26) 1 St e
ga
International Orchid Spectacular in the grounds
ro
St
eb
ro
BARRACKS Tur
An
To
b
ka
Mustang Sally’s........................(see 30) um au
ia
uS 36 l
rd
P
popular for weekend beach trips, but carry of Parliament Haus (p74). Inu K
Dr
t nu
Go
s 17
39 4 Hu
SHOPPING
your own water and sun protection because
Av
Port Moresby’s big event is the three-day 42 3 5 15 St
e
Boroko 'World Trade Centre' 40
Mavaru
there is no shade. The Bootless Bay area (Map Hiri Moale Festival, celebrated around September Market.................................. 38 C6 y
Hw Reke
St
Nita St
38
Brian Bell Plaza...........................39 C5 y
pp70–1M025; southeast of Port Moresby) and the 16 to coincide with Independence Day cel- Handicrafts Market....................40 C6 M
ur
ra Lah
Tabari Pl
ara Ave 8
Gere Gere Av
W rt 22
other islands around the harbour are also ebrations. Motu people race giant canoes PNG Arts....................................41 B4 a
Rd rds Hu
be 28
ve
Diho A
Loku
popular; see p90. and celebrate the shift in tradewinds that trad- BOROKO
Bis
6 TRANSPORT
ini
a Av
Ta
Anga
There are many interesting places within itionally brought traders home from the Gulf Gordons Market PMV Stop......(see 32) ura
Pd
ma
e
Manu Autoport
St
u D
easy reach if you have access to a boat. Basilisk region where they exchanged earth-fired pots (Boroko PMV Stop)................42 C6
Rd 30
13 ad
a
Bava
ab
r
Passage (Map pp70–1M026) is the deep, narrow for food. There’s a Miss Hiri Queen contest. Thrifty......................................(see 26)
25
ur ve
La A
entrance to the Port Moresby harbour The festival is held at Ela Beach. BADILLI 14
To Port Moresby
Grammar School
PORT MORESBY 78 P O R T M O R E S BY • • S l e e p i m g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels P O R T M O R E S BY • • E a t i n g & D r i n k i n g 79
PORT MORESBY
SLEEPING Niugini residence. It’s simple, clean and and restaurants; the Rattle ‘n’ Hum pizzeria There is wi-fi access throughout the build-
Places to stay are scattered all over Port friendly, and in a quiet area. downstairs serves passable pizzas to a mixed ing, restaurants, bars, a café and the Pondo
Moresby and are collectively the country’s Weigh Inn Hotel (Map p75; %321 7777; theweigh local crowd. Tavern nightclub.
most expensive. There are places at Seven Mile [email protected]; Poreporena Fwy; r K150-180; a ) Ela Beach Hotel (Map p77; %321 2100; www.coral
near the airport, in Six Mile, Boroko, Hohola This place has good-value rooms with seahotels.com.pg; Ela Beach Rd, Ela Beach; d K314-347, apt EATING & DRINKING
(sometimes called Waigani) and Town, with TV, fridge and phone, behind a popular from K347; as) Also operated by the Coral Moresby’s restaurant scene has come a long
a few others scattered in between. Boroko is poker-machine palace. Sea group, this hotel has recently had a nice way in recent years. After a few weeks in the
really the centre of activity in Port Moresby oComfort Inn (Map p77; %325 5091; comfort refit, but aside from the prime beachfront lo- provinces eating kaukau (sweet potato), rice
and the most convenient location as almost [email protected]; Mairi Pl, Boroko; d incl breakfast K176- cation, the rooms are overpriced. Its redeem- and tinpis (tinned fish), travellers will find
all PMV routes stop at its big bus stop on the 220, apt K340-395; as) In a quiet location two ing features include the excellent Beachside the Moresby dining options are a blessing.
Hubert Murray Hwy, one of only two routes minutes’ walk from central Boroko, and with Brasserie restaurant and Ozzie’s Bar (p81), There are some excellent restaurants in Port
into Town. All midrange and top-end places terrific friendly service and comfortable if one of Moresby’s best live-music venues. Moresby, but little to fill the void between kai
have a free airport shuttle. Prices listed here rather unloved rooms, this is the best-value bars (takeaway food bars) and pricey restau-
are inclusive of VAT. midrange option in the city. The garden and Top End rants. There are a few coffee shops that prepare
For more on accommodation, see p282. pool are a quiet sanctuary from Moresby’s All rooms in this bracket come with satellite fresh sandwiches and light meals, but, like the
hustle and bustle, and the meals (lunch and TV and minibar. Reception is open 24 hours kai bars, they’re closed by night-time so the
Budget dinner K30) aren’t bad. It’s unlicensed, but and in-room internet access can be arranged hotels and restaurants are the only option
Magila Motel (Map p77; %325 0536; www.magila you can stow your own in the room fridges. for about K80 for 10 hours, or you can use the for an evening meal. You can indulge your
.com.pg; Magila St, Six Mile; ‘backpacker’ s/d K50/75, d This inn has none of the pretensions of the hotel business centres for between K30 and urge for fresh fish and seafood at Moresby’s
K130-150;a) This clean place has rooms with big hotels, and with a lick of paint (and a bar K40 per hour. Moresby’s deluxe hotels are hotels and restaurants, and there are many
private bathroom and satellite TV. The at- and internet café), Comfort Inn would be a mostly patronised by visiting business people good Asian restaurants that cater to the large
tached Magila Gorilla Club can be rowdy (and classic backpacker haven. and are expensive in anyone’s language. It’s Asian expat community.
rough!) until late, so ask for a room at the Hideaway Hotel (Map p77; %323 6888; www.accom worth asking for any sort of corporate dis- Beer (bia) is ubiquitous and SP brews,
far end. It’s in a bad neighbourhood, but it’s modationpng.com.pg; Tamara Rd, Six Mile; d K175-280, ste count you can think of. Export, Ice and Brown, are very good.
fair value. K330; as) This place is in Six Mile, which Airways Hotel & Apartments (Map pp70-1; %324 However, wine, imported from Australia, is
Jessie Wyatt House (Map p77; %325 3646; Taurama is a dodgy neighbourhood, but otherwise 5200; www.airways.com.pg; Jackson’s Pde, Seven Mile; r K577- much less common and you’ll pay at least K45
Rd, Boroko; s/tw per person K70/60) Run by the Country it’s great value. The compact but spotless 787, ste K1650; ais) Airways is the pick of for the cheapest bottle.
Women’s Association, this churchy place is standard rooms and vast suites are comfort- the top-end hotels, pitching itself as the per-
clean, quiet and homely with a communal able and the hotel facilities are excellent. The fect place for the visitor who wants nothing to Restaurants
kitchen, free tea and coffee, and a fridge in hotel minibus will chauffer you wherever you do with Port Moresby. It has spectacular views Roundhouse Restaurant (Map p77; %325 8899; Okari
each room. It’s patronised mostly by Papua want to go, but it’s not a safe area to wan- over the airport and the poolside lounge-and- St, Boroko; meals K18-35; h10am-2pm & 5-10pm; a)
New Guineans and it’s a good place to meet der around alone. The attached Spirit Room bar area is lovely. Airways offers luxury rooms For authentic Chinese food, this is pretty
locals. The rooms are few and in high demand. (meals K35; open 6am to 10pm) restaurant is (ranging from standard rooms through to good and the lunchtime deals (K15) are
Check in between 8am and 4pm Monday to consistently good. suites) and classy amenities two minutes from excellent value. The Sunday dim sum (yum
Friday and 8am and noon Saturday only. Shady Rest Hotel (Map p77; %323 0000; www.shady the airport. There are two restaurants, the cha) is popular.
oMapang Missionary Home (Map p77; %325 rest.com.pg; Taurama Rd, Boroko; d K190-210; a) This wonderful KC’s Deli (open 7am to 7pm) and Port Moresby Golf Club (Map p77; %325 1868;
5251; [email protected]; Lahara Ave, Boroko; dm/s/d incl has bars, good restaurants (see opposite) and bars including Balus Casino Bar, with pool Waigani Dr, Waigani; meals K25-40; a) Upstairs is
breakfast K70/110/140; ai) Mapang, in central decent rooms; it’s a solid option. It also offers tables and live entertainment, and the Dakota the Restaurant 168 where some interesting
Boroko, is clean as a whistle and run by an ‘day use’ rates which might mean that some Lounge, inside an old DC-3. Even if you’re not Malay and Indian dishes are served – better
affable Kiwi missionary couple – it’s the best of the patrons are there to share a good time, staying at the Airways, it’s worth dropping by than the dull surroundings might suggest.
budget option in Moresby. It has a communal not a long time. for lunch or a drink. Jepello (Map p77; %323 6800; Inki St, Hohola; meals
lounge, kitchen and library, and comes with Lamana Hotel (Map p77; %323 2333; www.lamana Holiday Inn (Map p77; %303 2000; www.holiday K25-50; h 10am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat; a ) Just
complimentary broadband internet wired to hotel.com.pg; off Waigani Dr, Hohola; d K275-320, apt K310; inn.com.au; Islander Dr, Hohola; r K605-770, ste K1120; off Waigani Dr, behind the Interoil Service
each room so you can plug in your laptop. a) The rooms here are large and comfort- ais) This place is comfortable enough Station in another dodgy area, is Jepello,
With a couple of family rooms, Mapang caters able, and the service is good. If nightclubbing with all the facilities you’d expect from an Moresby’s best Italian restaurant. The fresh
mostly to church workers and is often full so is your thing, then the attached Gold Club international hotel, but it’s in a bad area and pastas and wood-fired pizzas are good, but
book well ahead. The interior is smoke-free and (p81) will be an attraction. The Palazzo res- not worth the price tag. leave room for the homemade gelato.
the whole premises is an alcohol-free zone, but taurant is good too. Crowne Plaza (Map p75; %309 3000; www.crowne Grand Palace (Map p77; %311 2826; RH Hypermart
there are no curfews and, provided you’re quiet Gateway Hotel (Map pp70-1; %325 3855; www plaza.com; cnr Douglas & Hunter Sts, Town; r K649-930; Bldg, Kennedy Rd, Gordons; meals K25-70; h11am-2pm &
and respectful, they don’t mind what you get .coralseahotels.com.pg; Morea-Tobo Rd, Seven Mile; d 280-455, ais) This is right in the heart of Town 6-10pm; a) This is the top spot for Chinese
up to offsite. Where do I sign? apt K505; as) Located one minute’s drive and has commanding views from its nine cuisine. Try the yum cha or the beautifully
from the airport, this member of the Coral floors of neatly fitted-out rooms. The standard presented steamed whole coral trout.
Midrange Sea chain is a Moresby institution, with com- rooms are not all that big, but you could throw Daikoku (Map p75; %321 0255; Andersons Foodland
Ponderosa Family Hotel (Map p77; %323 4888; Nuana fortable if slightly worn rooms, and there are a party in the executive suites and apartments, Bldg, Harbour City; meals K25-90; h10am-10pm; a) In
Rd, Gordons; d/f K115/175). This was once an Air plenty of facilities. There are a couple of bars which come with free use of the club lounge. a feed-off between Ichizen and Daikoku, we
PORT MORESBY 80 P O R T M O R E S BY • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com P O R T M O R E S BY • • S h o p p i n g 81
PORT MORESBY
narrowly chose this to be the best Japanese Espresso Bar (Map p75; %321 6600; Ground fl, of interesting WWII photos and maritime some friendly negotiation, but protracted hag-
restaurant in Moresby – outstanding! The Deloitte Tower, Douglas St, Town; h7.30am-5pm Mon- memorabilia. There’s sometimes live music, gling is considered rude. See p299 for more
sushi, sashimi and other Japanese favourites Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat; a) This place provides good coffee but otherwise it’s a steady diet of easy-listen- on bargaining.
are very good. At dinner, chefs will prepare and light meals. ing ‘yacht rock’ through the speakers, such as Ela Beach Craft Market (Map p75; %325 2838; Ela
your meal on a hotplate at your table with Mr B Coffee Shop (Map p77M0247; %325 5411; 1st fl, Brian Eagles, Toto, Christopher Cross. You’re sup- Beach International School, Ela Beach Rd, Ela Beach; h7am-
great skill and showmanship. Lunchtime Bell Plaza, Boroko; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat; posed to have a member sign you in, but a little noon last Saturday of every month) This is the best mar-
bento boxes cost K23. a) Quiet and cool, this is a refuge from the filth and charm (and white skin) should see you in. ket in PNG, with all the paintings, carvings,
Ang’s Restaurant (Map p77; %323 0863; Munahu St, craziness of the Boroko streets. Freshly made sandwiches, Gold Club (Map p77; %323 2333; Lamana Hotel; off baskets, shells and weavings you can poke a
Gordons; meals K30-50; h7.30am-10pm; a) Ang’s is pastries, light meals and good Goroka coffee. Waigani Dr, Hohola; h11am-5am) This club has live koteka (penis gourd) at. Barbecued food and
locked up like Fort Knox; this part of Gordons music a couple of nights a week, but otherwise traditional dancers (about 10am) contribute
is unsavoury after dark. But it’s worth the Quick Eats it’s given over to DJs and dancing. The open- to the carnival atmosphere.
trip for excellent Chinese food at reasonable There are all manner of kai bars around, air dance floor surrounded by layers of bars Port Moresby Grammar School Craft Market (off
prices. The tôm yam soup is just right. with Boroko being the kai capital. The better gives the impression that this could, actually, Map p77; %323 6577; Leander St; h8am-noon 2nd
Ichizen (Map p75; %320 3000; 1st fl, Steamships Plaza, options are listed here. be in New York City. The music is good and Saturday of every month) Another monthly event
Champion Pde, Town; meals K30-75; h11.30am-2.30pm & Ela Beach Cafe (Map p75; %685 3918; Bramell St, Ela there’s no riff-raff. A top spot. with good crowds and a party atmosphere.
5.30-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 5.30-10.30pm Sat & Sun; a) The Beach; meals K9-15; h8am-11.30pm) At the west end Ozzie’s Bar (Map p75; %321 2100; Ela Beach Hotel, Ela PNG Arts (Map p77; %325 3976; Poreporena Fwy,
teppanyaki, sushi and sashimi are expertly of Ela Beach, this rustic-looking eatery has coffee, beer and Beach; h9am-2am) This has live music Thursday, Gordons; h9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) The
prepared, and artfully arrayed on the plate. A lunches of simple kai. Friday and Saturday nights, and it’s a laid- long-running PNG Arts warehouse has a huge
delicious lunchtime bento box costs K26. Yun Sue Restaurant (Map p77; %325 6011; off back and unprepossessing place where you collection of wares from all over the country.
Rattle ‘n’ Hum Pizzeria (Map pp70-1; %327 8162; Waigani Dr, Waigani; meals K10) Serves good, cheap and can mix it with the locals who love to dance. The prices are reasonable, credit cards are
Morea-Tobo Rd, Seven Mile; meals K35; a) This serves large Chinese lunches. Pondo Tavern (Map p75; %309 3000; cnr Douglas accepted and freight and documentation can
sloppy pizzas in a convivial, family-friendly & Hunter Sts, Town; h11am-4.30am) Underneath be organised.
atmosphere. Self-Catering the Crowne Plaza Hotel; more milling Beyond Art (Map p75; %320 2257; Champion Pde,
oAsia Aromas (Map p75; %321 4780; Ground fl, Koki Market (off Map pp70–1M024A) and the than dancing. Town; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, 10am-1pm Sun)
Steamships Plaza, Champion Pde, Town; meals K35-60; Boroko ‘World Trade Centre’ market (Map Mustang Sally’s (Map p77; %323 0000; Taurama Rd, In Town, Beyond Art is small and pricy.
h8.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm & 5.30-10pm p77) behind the post office are the places to Boroko; h9am-2am) Attached to the Shady Rest
Sat, 9.30am-2.30pm Sun; a) The Chinese and head for a good range of fruit and veg, plus Hotel (p78), this offers a more ‘genuine’ PNG GETTING THERE & AWAY
Thai dishes and friendly service here are so fresh seafood. The bustling Gordons Market experience – raw and spirited. If you’re of- Air
good it’s worth booking ahead to secure an (Map p77), one of the largest in the coun- fended by loud music, the odd swinging pool Flights link Port Moresby to virtually every-
evening table. The Thai prawns with lemon- try, has an excellent selection of vegetables cue or women of the night, best to steer clear. where in PNG and anywhere Air Niugini flies
grass and chilli are fantastic. This place is and fruit. internationally (see p306). For routes and
popular with the Moresby’s glitterati, cabinet There are numerous supermarkets around SHOPPING prices, see p313. Just before our visit, third-
ministers, expats and the well-to-do, so you Port Moresby and they’re all well stocked. Milan, Paris, New York City…Port Moresby? string domestic carrier Airlink, which serviced
never know who’ll you will be sitting next Ah, no. There are no designer shoes, very lit- many small and remote airstrips, went broke –
to. Refreshingly, the prices are more sweet ENTERTAINMENT tle clothing, and apart from betel nut and its leaving a significant hole in the domestic air-
than sour. After the 1994 volcanic eruptions in Rabaul, condiments, there’s not much to buy. Artisans travel scene. Many of Airlink’s routes were
Beachside Brasserie (Map p75; %321 2100; Ela Beach PNG’s thriving music industry relocated to used to sell carvings and paintings outside marginally profitable anyway, so it remains
Rd, Ela Beach; meals K35-60; h6.30am-10.30pm; a) The Port Moresby. There are some excellent musi- the big hotels, but they’ve all been shooed to be seen if another flyer takes them up. Port
pleasant brasserie in Ela Beach Hotel (p79) cians gigging in the capital; some are gradu- away. Across the road from the Gateway Moresby is also home to many charter fixed-
is a good choice for moderately priced food. ates of the University of PNG’s music school. Hotel (p78) in Six Mile and the Holiday Inn wing and helicopter flyers – if you have the cash
The pizzas (K25 to K49) are the best in town. While it’s not New York City, Port Moresby (p79) in Hohola there are often art displays; there’s nowhere you can’t get to.
They serve good seafood and a whopping has a few live-music venues and some discos mostly contemporary paintings. The bigger Some airline offices in Port Moresby:
500g steak for K60. and nightclubs. The Post Courier publishes hotels have gift shops which stock some nice Air Niugini (Map p75; %327 3444; www.airniugini
Cellar (Map p77; %323 0000; Taurama Rd, Boroko; the ‘What’s On’ entertainment guide on pieces, but we prefer to buy directly from the .com.pg; Ground fl, MMI House, Champion Pde, Town)
meals K45-60; h6am-10pm; a) This tastefully Wednesday. What little live music there is in makers themselves. Airlines PNG (Map p75; %325 0555; www.apng.com;
decorated, softly lit place at the Shady Rest Port Moresby will be found in a nightclub or Look out for paintings by John and Chris 1st fl, Pacific Place, Musgrave St, Town)
Hotel serves a good mix of dishes including the yacht club. Kauage, sons of the late Mathias Kauage, MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; Map p75; %325
steak (K52), fish (K40), oysters (K40) and Royal Papua Yacht Club (Map p75; %321 1700; PNG’s most famous artist (see p45), as well as 2668; www.maf.org.au; General Aviation section, Jackson’s
several Indian dishes. There’s a wide selection Poreporena Fwy; a) This large airy place is the works by John Siune – all highly collectable. International Airport)
of good wine. last bastion of post-colonial white elitism – you Handicrafts Market (Map p77; Tabari Pl, Boroko; Qantas (Map p75; %321 1200; www.qantas.com.au;
If you’re needing a caffeine fix, the follow- won’t see any grassroots here. Pity because it’s h8am-5pm) Boroko’s dusty central square is Cuthbertson St, Town)
ing coffee shops are where to go: a nice place with a pleasant deck for sitting, the best place to buy bilums, Highland hats,
Cafe (Map p75; %309 3000; Crowne Plaza Hotel, cnr drinking cold beer and watching the harbour. carvings, kina-shell breast plates, shell jewel- Boat
Douglas & Hunter Sts, Town; h6.30am-10pm; a) The The food is good and reasonably priced (K22 lery and the like. Moresby’s sellers are used to There are no regular passenger boats sailing
lunchtime buffet is good but it’s not cheap. to K40), and the club is decorated with lots the ways of tourists and will happily engage in out of Port Moresby. Many freighters do have
PORT MORESBY 82 P O R T M O R E S BY • • G e t t i n g A r o u n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com A R O U N D P O R T M O R E S BY • • S o g e r i R o a d 83
PORT MORESBY
passenger facilities, but none of the shipping offices in several top-end hotels. Prices start Route 11 From Town to Two Mile Hill, Boroko, Waigani Varirata National Park and there was cer-
companies is currently officially allowing at around K175 per day and K0.80 per km (not all stop at the government offices) and Morata. tainly no sign of trouble.
passengers. The situation seems to change for a manual Mitsubishi Lancer (plus insur- Route 12 From Gerehu to Waigani, Hohola, Three Mile It’s only 46km to Sogeri but there is enough
frequently so asking around at the wharves ance at K50 per day for a collision damage and Manu. to see to make it a full-day trip. The first stop
might get you a berth. If you want to go to waiver excess of K2000). Port Moresby can Route 15 From Tokarara to the government buildings in is the large and carefully tended Bomana War
the Gulf, ask around the smaller boats at the be a confusing place to navigate at first, so be Waigani, Gordons, Erema, Seven Mile, Six Mile, Five Mile Cemetery (Map pp70-1; %328 1536; h8am-4pm),
jetties north of the main wharf. Heading east sure to have a map and take out full insurance. and Four Mile/Boroko to Hohola. where 4000 PNG and Australian WWII
towards Milne Bay you, could go to Kupiano Police check points are common after dark Route16 From Gordons Market out to Bomana Prison, soldiers are buried; American soldiers who
(Map pp86–7M0259) and look for a small boat or but shouldn’t be a problem if you have your past the War Cemetery. died in PNG were generally shipped home
canoe. A series of hops along the south coast license. For more information, see p317. Route 17 From Gordons, Four Mile/Boroko, Three Mile, for burial. It’s a serene yet sobering place.
could, after nights in villages and days waiting Some rental companies and their central Sabama to Bari. PMV 16 from Gordons Market (Map p77)
under palm trees, get you to Alotau (p109). reservation numbers: runs past the gate.
Avis (Map pp70-1; %324 9400; www.avis.com.pg) For more information on PMVs, see p318. A few kilometres past the cemetery, the
Car Offices at the airport (domestic and international terminals). road winds up the impressive Laloki River gorge
You can’t really drive anywhere else from Port Friendly Car Hire (%683 6238) Utikas Pok runs this Taxi and you’re soon more than 600m above sea
Moresby (except Kerema). There are several small operation – much cheaper than the big boys – and Port Moresby has no shortage of taxis, and level. There are several viewing points looking
companies renting cars and 4WDs in Port he’ll deliver a car to you. you’ll usually be able to find one outside a into the gorge and up to the Rouna Falls and
Moresby. See below for details. Hertz (Map pp70-1; %302 6822; sales@leasemaster hotel or the airport, and in Boroko. Sample power station. Just beyond is a small store
.com.pg) Desks at the airport and Gateway Hotel. fares include: Town to Boroko, K20; Town and a track leading to the rundown Kokoda
PMV Thrifty (Map p77; %325 5550) Offices at the airport, to Waigani, K20; Town to the airport, K30. Trail Motel (p84).
Rural PMVs leave from Gordons Market Airways Hotel & Apartments and Lamana Hotel. Mosbi’s taxis are in poor repair, some are Right after the store is the turn-off to
(Map p77) and head west as far as Kerema unlicensed and frequent roadside police Varirata National Park (%325 0195/9340; admission
(K40, five hours) and east along the Magi PMV checks are the bane of drivers’ lives. Petrol K5 if there’s anyone staffing the gate) which, at 1000
Hwy. PMVs also leave here for Bomana War Port Moresby has an efficient PMV (public is expensive and many taxi drivers barely hectares and over 800m high, is the highlight
Cemetery (opposite; bus 16) and destinations motor vehicle) service, though you’ll see very eke out a living. of the Sogeri Rd. It’s 8km from the turn-off
along the Sogeri Rd. few white faces in the windows. Most expats The growing number of Scarlet Taxis (%323 and you’ll find six clearly marked walking
will advise against using PMVs, but they’re 4266) offer a superior alternative. They’re trails ranging from 45 minutes to three hours
GETTING AROUND quite safe provided you stick to certain routes clean, relatively new taxis with meters long, and some excellent lookouts back to Port
To/From the Airport and be careful about where you disembark. (though these often don’t work), radios and Moresby and the coast. The bird-watching
The hotel minibus is the easiest way to get PMVs run frequently from about 6am to 6pm drivers in ironed shirts. But the clincher: here can be rewarding, with an array of king-
between the airport and where you’re stay- but stop suddenly at nightfall; be careful not betel nut and smoking are banned. fishers and Raggiana birds of paradise as high-
ing. All but the smallest establishments have to be caught out. The flat fare is K0.70 for any lights. It’s possible to camp here, but unless
one and if you contact them ahead, or call trip around Moresby, near or far. The main you’re in a large group, it’s potentially unsafe.
from the airport, you’ll soon have a free
ride. In the international terminal arrivals
interchange point is Manu Autoport (Map
p77) in Boroko; look for the pedestrian over-
AROUND PORT MORESBY The best place is on the grass outside the der-
elict huts. There are pit toilets. Speak to the
hall, go into the NCD Tourist Office where pass and crowds of people. In Town, the main Although Port Moresby is also the capi- ranger-in-charge (if you can find him!).
you can use the phone for free. In the do- stop is on Douglas St, and at Gordons it’s near tal of Central Province, it sits within the A few kilometres down the dreadful Kokoda
mestic terminal, buy a phonecard from the Gordons Market. PMVs get crowded at peak National Capital District (NCD). Loloata Track road (barely navigable in a 2WD in the
shop beside the café. hours and especially on Friday evening. Island (see p90) is outside the NCD off the dry season only) is a turn-off left (west) back
Taxis wait outside both terminals and, un- PMVs run set routes and have route num- Magi Highway in Central Province proper, towards Port Moresby. This is the Hombrum
less you spot a Scarlet Taxi (%323 4266), some of bers (and sometimes the destination itself) but it’s only about 20km from Port Moresby Bluff road that runs along the top of the Laloki
which have meters (that actually work), you’ll painted on the front. They go both ways. and offers a great weekend escape from the River canyon wall. It leads to Hombrum Bluff
need to negotiate the fare before you leave. A Some useful routes include the following: dusty capital. Lookout that rises 1300m and was used as a
taxi to Waigani or Boroko should cost K20, Route 4 From Hanuabada, through Town, Koki and retreat for the military brass during WWII.
and to Town it’s about K30. The third op- Boroko to Gordons Market. SOGERI ROAD Below is Seventeen Mile which was an impor-
tion is to take a PMV, but you need to be Route 7 From Gerehu, past Waigani, Gordons and Erima There are some interesting areas near Port tant base camp for more than 400 soldiers.
very confident or desperately short of cash, to Seven Mile. Moresby along or just off the Sogeri Rd, Back on the Kokoda Track road you can
or both, to do this if you don’t know the city. Route 9 From Gerehu and Waigani to Four Mile/Boroko, which veers to the right (east) off the Hubert drive past McDonald’s Corner where there’s a small
PMVs leave from about 50m east of the in- East Boroko and then to Three Mile (this is the bus to get Murray Hwy a couple of kilometres past the memorial that marks the start of the Kokoda
ternational terminal and cost K0.70. PMV 10 from Boroko to UPNG & the Botanical Gardens). airport. Other than Sunday you’ll likely be Track. It was here that Australian WWII sol-
takes you to Town via Four Mile (Boroko). Route 10 From Hanuabada to Town, Badilly, Sabama, the only people around. It’s best to travel diers disembarked their trucks and began the
Manu, Three Mile, Four Mile/Boroko (Jessie Wyatt House; with a local out on the Sogeri Rd – there long muddy march. Later the rough road was
Car & 4WD past the hospital and the CWA Hostel), and on to the have been occasional incidents – but when pushed further through to Owers’ Corner, and
The airport is full of companies renting cars airport at Seven Mile. Avoid getting on or off in the Kila we were there the road gangs were upgrad- you can drive here too…if your poor car hasn’t
and 4WDs, and the major names also have Kila and Sabama areas, which are relatively unsafe. ing the road that curls up Mt Erima at suffered enough! Be careful out here. There are
© Lonely Planet Publications
PORT MORESBY 84 A R O U N D P O R T M O R E S BY • • H i r i t a n o H i g h w a y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
no road signs so ask villagers, and if it rains Getting There & Away
you’ll be stuck good and proper. PMVs leave from Gordons Market (Map
There’s nothing worth stopping in Sogeri p77; K3) semi-regularly. The road is sur-
for, but a couple of kilometres along another faced to Sogeri and all the way down to the
diabolical dirt road the Crystal Rapids (admission Varirata National Park, however the section
per vehicle K7) make a pleasant swimming and from Sogeri to Owers’ Corner – the start
picnic spot. of the Kokoda Track – is suitable for
4WDs only.
Sleeping & Eating
Kokoda Trail Motel (%325 4403; fax 325 3322; r K65) HIRITANO HIGHWAY
Cheap, dirty and almost derelict, and if you The Hiritano Hwy leaves northward from
don’t book ahead, there’ll be no food. Only if Port Moresby and goes to Brown River
you’re desperate. in Central Province, located about 40km
Bluff Inn Motel (%328 1223; fax 328 1311; Sogeri Rd; from the capital. It’s a nice spot to go for a
r K165; a) This sprawling motel, by the river at swim. It then comes back to the coast west
Seventeen Mile, is the only worthwhile place of Port Moresby, traditional lands of the
to stay. The rooms that sleep four (some with Mekeo people known for their colourful
kitchens) are fair value. dancing costumes and face painting, and
Phoenix Bar (meals K18-24; h10am-2pm & 5-10pm then onward passing Yule Island (see p89),
Mon-Fri, to 10pm Sat & Sun) Attached to the Bluff Inn eventually reaching Kerema (see p202) in
Motel. The best place to stop for lunch. Gulf Province.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
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the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
85
Central, Oro
& Milne Bay Provinces
The eastern provinces of Central, Oro and Milne Bay have it all – dazzling reefs, an arsenal
of WWII historic sites, jungle-clad mountains and, most endearingly, good-spirited and genu-
CENTRAL, ORO
Papua New Guinea’s foremost attraction, the Kokoda Track, seesaws for 96 unrelenting kilo-
metres between the Central and Oro Provinces. But the Kokoda is far more than a mere track.
Japanese and Australians fought one of WWII’s bloodiest running battles along these paths
and, for many Aussies, it embodies their never-say-die identity. Today, many walk in solidarity
for their forefathers who fought and died in this most inhospitable but beautiful battlefield.
Further east, at Tufi and north of Alotau, some of the world’s most biologically diverse
reefs will have you gasping on your snorkel’s mouthpiece. When you tire of marvelling
at the kaleidoscopic colours of the reefs and diving the numerous WWII planes and boat
wrecks, try your hand at muck diving (diving amid the critters that lurk at the sea bed and
the detritus of history) under the pylons of the Samarai Island Wharf.
Turning north, across the Solomon Sea, you’ll find the legendary Trobriand Islands, home
to the exotic Milamala Festival of ‘free’ love, cricket and – above all – yams. Alotau, the
capital of Milne Bay Province, is one of the safest and most attractive towns in the country
and home to the Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival, during which island warriors paddle
ocean-going canoes in races guaranteed to have your heart racing.
HIGHLIGHTS
0 100 km
CENTRAL, ORO & MILNE BAY PROVINCES 0 60 miles
Mt Lawson Alligator Point
Kakoro (2722m) MOROBE Hercules
GULF PROVINCE
PROVINCE Mt Strong Bay
(3588m)
Malalaua W Cape Ward
Mt St Mary ar r Manau
(3654m) ia Rive Hunt
Kukipi
Mt Yule r TROBR
(3276m) Mt Albert Edward
R ive IA
Tapini
(3990m) S O L O M O N S E A Tuma I N
D
Iokea
re
Goilala Kosipi
IS
Kaibola
ba
Region Holnicote Bay
am
Ala r Woitape
bu ve Fane Losuia
M
Sanananda
le Ri
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
Gona
Popondetta Mongi
Va
M
Yule I Agivairu Mt Victoria Island Map
Dugumenu I
AR
(4035m) Kokoda Girua Oro Bay (p119)
Kairuku H
CENTRAL, ORO
Kwaiawatta I
CENTRAL, ORO
Hi Dyke A Muyua
Poukama rit (3505m) Sairope Eroro Musa Mt. Brittania LL Madua I
an See Kokoda Track Ackland Point (1726m) Cape Nelson D' Gawa I (Woodlark) I
o y Mt EN BE
Cape Hw Sections (pp92–5) Mt Lamington
Gobe
Bay
Tufi
Kofure
Oiautukekea T RE NN Kaurai
Suckling (3449m) (1585m) Pongani ET
Hisiu Madilogo Sinofuka (2566m) C IS Kulumadau
Kagi Afore Sarire Mt Victory A
Brown River Owers' Goodenough I S
T
Gewoia (1925m)
Redscar Head Lea Lea Corner Kokoda O Vivigani AMPHLET E Guasopa Cannac I Wabomat I
w ORO Wanigela Collingwood
A
Caution Bay Track r Fergusson IS
e Bay
U
PROVINCE ve Wa Bolubolu LAUGHLAN GROUP
Ri rd
X
Sogeri n Moni River I (2073m)
River
Yiaku Hu Iamalele
Napa Napa
sa
Ma nt Mt Lamanai
S
IS
Sirinumu Tutubia
Mu
PORT MORESBY g i Mt Obree Mt Suckling (492m) Alcester I
t
h
tr
Hw
l e Ailulia
ai
Kemp
t
Rigo Cape Vogel Salamo Esa'ala
(pp70–1)
Gaba Gaba
y PROVINCE Normanby I
R a Goodenough
Round Point Kwikila Boianai Bay
ὄ ὄὄὄὄ
Awaiama
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ ὄ
n g Matupa Sehulea
e Rabaraba S O L O M O N S E A
CENTRAL Taupota Wagahuhu SewaSaidowai
Gulf of Papua PROVINCE Dogura No 2 (1158m)
Kupiano Mt Simpson Mt Hoia Bay Bay
Hula (2883m) Thompson & Tawali Go Bunama
Topura s
Hood Point Hood McFarlane (1798m) Wedau Resort East c he n
St r ai t
STRATHORD IS
Bay Keppel Harbour Burumai
Batumata
Wamira Gurney
Divinai Cape Nuakata I
Dagadaga China Strait Point Cape Point
Point Godaisu Alotau Ahioma
Kuiaro (Pearl) I Rodney Table Yamba I Dawson I Hastings I
Galahi I Milne Bay East I
West China Bay Bona Bona I Wagawaga
Strait Lamhaga Sideia I
Channel Mullins Bunora I
Magesina Mila Baleki
Bonaloahilihili I (Magehau) Harbour Suau Basilaki I Misima I LO
Tabinagurm I Panaeati I UI
ὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Kwato C O R A L S E A Suwayabina SI
I Sariba I Mt Oiatau Bwagaoia A
See China Strait Bentley I Ilai I DE
Kwato Brumer I (1037m)
Mission See Samarai I Suau I Enlargement AR
Enlargement RENARD
Wari Is CONFLICT IS C
Logea I Kwaiam I Samarai Island GROUP H
Customs Wharf Christopher Imbert I IP
(Rogeia) East Channel Robinson Tawai Reef
Panawina I Manuga E
Deka Deka I Old International Wharfs Memorial Uluma DUPERRE Motorina I Reefs L
Bonalia A
Bay Reef Quessant I IS G
Yama Reef Samarai I Wharf Dive Site Bwanasa Women's Panasail I
Samarai I
O
Association Guesthouse Panatinane I Rossel
Luluni SITCO Wharf (Boats Trading ANCHORAGE REEFS Long Reef C A LV AD O S
Point to Kwato I & Alotau) CH Yeina (Yela) I
Manta Ray Company Sports AI
Ground Lookout Panawaipona I N Tagula (Piron) I
Cleaning Gona Bara Anglican Church
Station Power
Bara I Market House Old Hospital Sudest (Tagula) I
Memorial Waanya
Tobu I Doini I Hall Customs & Rambuso Mission
Police Madua
Arch Is 0 5 km 0 200 m Immigration Station
Office Lawik
0 3 miles 0 0.1 miles Barrier Reef Reef
History sionaries arrived on Muyua (Woodlark) who forcibly removed local men to work in etened down and the mines were worked out.
The coastal people and islanders of this region Island, but the locals, it seems, were unen- northern Australian sugar plantations. This Then came the war (see boxed text, p88).
have traded for centuries in extensive barter thusiastic about Christianity and the Marists loathsome practice was known as ‘blackbird- Milne Bay became a huge Allied naval
networks, the most famous of which was the were gone within eight years. Apparently ing’ and continued well into the 20th century. base and a few American landing craft and
kula ring (see p117). The hiri trade between undeterred, the London Missionary Society Errol Flynn, who spent his formative years several memorials can still be seen. The gar-
Motuans in Central Province and villages fur- (LMS), Catholics, Anglicans, Methodists and ducking and diving around New Guinea from dens and plantations inland from Buna and
ther around the gulf was conducted in huge finally the Seventh-Day Adventists opened for 1927 to 1933, later wrote of the ‘confidence’ Gona had barely recovered from the war
two-masted lakatois (sailing boats). business between the 1870s and 1908. Most required to persuade local elders to allow their when Mt Lamington’s 1951 eruption wiped
In 1606 Spanish mariner Luis Vaéz de notable among them was Reverend Charles men to be carted off. out Higaturu, the district headquarters, and
Torres, after whom the Louisiades were named, W Abel, a dissident member of the LMS, On the north coast early European con- almost 3000 people. The new headquarters
abducted 14 children and took them to Manila who in 1891 founded the Kwato Extension tacts with the Orokaiva people were relatively town of Popondetta was established at a safer
in the Philippines to be baptised. He was fol- Association on Kwato Island, near Samarai peaceful, but when gold was discovered at distance from the volcano.
lowed by an array of explorers, including the in the China Strait. This was the first church Yodda and Kokoda in 1895, violence soon fol-
famous Frenchman Antoine d’Entrecasteaux, to provide skills training to the indigenous lowed. A government station was established Geography & Climate
who left his name on a large group of islands. people of Milne Bay. after an altercation between locals and miners, The region stretches down the ‘dragon’s
But it wasn’t until 1847 that Europeans sought Apart from men of God, the region at- but the first government officer was killed tail’ at the eastern end of mainland PNG
to settle the region. In that year, Marist mis- tracted a less savoury crew of opportunists shortly after he arrived. Eventually things qui- and out into the Coral and Solomon seas,
88 CENTRAL PROVINCE lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CENTRAL PROVINCE •• Hiritano Highway 89
impossible between the country’s two big- Later, the island became a government
BETWEEN THE SEA AND A HARD PLACE: THE BATTLE OF MILNE BAY gest cities. Once these gaps are filled, the headquarters and base for explorations.
In 1942, at 11.30pm on 25 August, the Japanese Imperial Army started invading Milne Bay. In Central Province stands to reap the rewards Today the district local government head-
just two landings a few days apart, the Japanese established a 2400-strong army near Ahioma. from passing traffic and become a far easier quarters is on the mainland at Bereina and
Unlike Kokoda, the battle of Milne Bay was not to be a protracted affair; it would be over in place to visit. the island has been in serious economic
just 12 days. decline since. An airstrip that is more bush
The Japanese fought skirmishes with the Allies and their base suffered early casualties under HIRITANO HIGHWAY than strip and derelict buildings are the only
a fierce RAAF aircraftled barrage. On the moonlit nights of 26 and 27 August the Japanese The now impressively pot-holed Hiritano Hwy reminders that at one stage Siria village once
attacked, forcing the Australian battalions to withdraw to the Gama River. Pressing their advan- once connected Port Moresby with Kerema, boasted a fisheries industry, wharfs, a bank
tage the Japanese attacked again the next night, this time pushing the Allies backwards to the far to the west in Gulf Province. Locals now and guesthouse.
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
repulsed each time. The tide of the battle had turned, the Australians had been reinforced and consider driving the whole highway, only do one and won the nationwide competition to
the attackers became the defenders. The Australians launched counter attacks and the Japanese so in the dry season and bring an extra 4WD design the national flag.
sent warships to help their embattled troops. A week later the Japanese Navy called their invasion with a winch to pull free your first vehicle The most recent addition to the landscape
off and started evacuating troops. It is estimated that 750 Japanese and 161 Australians were from the waist-high mud. There is talk of is the remains of a whale that washed up here
killed at Milne Bay; many more were wounded. road repairs but in these parts talk is cheap, in 2006. Many of the vertebrae can be seen
In the broad canvas of the Pacific war, it was not a major victory. Its significance as the first and road repairs are expensive. around the village being used as stools and
Allied land victory in the Pacific boosted morale far beyond Milne Bay’s bloodied shores. This area is home to the Mekeo people, the skull still juts out from the sand. By all
See www.diggerhistory.info/pages-battles/ww2/milne_bay.htm for more details on the who are noted for their colourful, dancing accounts things got a bit whiffy around town
battle. costumes and face painting. On ceremonial while the carcass rotted.
occasions the men paint their faces in striking There are several palm-fringed beaches
geometric designs. around the island but the pick of the bunch
taking in the hundreds of islands and atolls of ing it one of the most steeply sided islands If you fancy munching on a marsupial is Paradise Beach, a hot half-day walk to the
Milne Bay Province. On the south coast Port on earth. watch for the Vanuamai people selling roasted island’s far tip. Arrange for a local guide or
Moresby is built around one of several natu- Weather patterns are unpredictable, par- wallaby (K10 for a set of ribs) along the road- charter a dinghy.
ral harbours and sits in the centre of a large ticularly in the east where rainstorms can side. They taste pretty good – the wallabies
area of dry grasslands; swamps and tidal flats be spontaneous and heavy. In Milne Bay that is, not the Vanuamai people; no one has SLEEPING & EATING
can be found elsewhere on the coast. Province, November to January has the op- been eaten around here for decades. The island’s sole remaining guesthouse,
The mainland is divided by the Owen timum and most consistent weather, and Carmelite convent, is now beyond repair, home
Stanley Range, which rises rapidly from the March to June is the least windy period. Yule Island only to termites and snakes. Try Daughters of Our
northern and southern coasts to peaks of From December to March, the cyclone For such an inconsequential speck on the Lady of the Sacred Heart (OLSH Convent; s incl meals K50).
3500m to 4000m. Not surprisingly, major season in northern Australia and the Coral map, Yule Island certainly has a lot of history. There are no phones on the island and it is a
roads are few: the Magi and Hiritano Hwys Sea can trigger high seas and big winds, al- Recent fortunes have waned and locals give hit-and-miss affair arranging accommodation.
extend from Port Moresby, while in Oro though Milne Bay itself is usually calm. the impression that they’re just waiting for The Diocese of Bereina (%325 6102) office in Port
Province the only road of any length runs someone, anyone, to come in and kick-start Moresby or Sister Rosaleen O’Brien (%325 4124)
from the capital, Popondetta, to Kokoda, the economy. It has happened before. may offer some advice. The few remaining
from where it’s all about leg power.
Mt Lamington, near Popondetta, remains
CENTRAL PROVINCE In 1885 Catholic missionaries, who were
some of the first European visitors to reach
nuns here are great company and, if they take
pity on you, can put you up in comfortable,
a mildly active volcano and further east Stretching for more than 500km either the Papuan coast, held PNG’s first mass here mosquito-proof rooms with clean ensuite
there are volcanoes near Tufi. The section of side of Port Moresby, Central Province on 4 July. Today the location, Centennial Hill, bathrooms and generated electricity. Students
coast around Cape Nelson has unique tropi- lives in the shadow of the national capital. boasts a small memorial decorated with and missionaries get discounts. Act pious.
cal ‘fjords’, or rias; their origin is volcanic Overlooked by tourists and long ignored by mosaics and a painted bronze (yes – someone Fledgling operators Camillus Aisi Koae and
rather than glacial. Much of this northern politicians, infrastructure is, even by local painted over the bronze) statue. They also Michael Koae both indicated to us that they
coast is made up of coral limestone. standards, bagarap (buggered up). brought with them 14 Filipino lay mission- would happily provide homestays for K25
The islands of Milne Bay Province are Things, however, may soon change. aries (the first Philippine visitors to PNG) per night and three meals for an additional
divided into six main groups: the Samarai In 2008 the opening of the long-awaited to teach catechism and generally help evan- K35 in Siria village. Conditions are very basic
group; D’Entrecasteaux group; the Trobriand Southern Highlands Gulf Hwy will connect gelise the country. Besides Catholicism, the without either electricity or running water.
Islands; Muyua (Woodlark) Island; the Kikori in the Gulf Province to the Highland Filipinos also help account for the Hispanic BYO sleeping sheets, mosquito net and a
Conflict and Engineer groups; and the Hwy near Mendi. The pothole in that plan to surnames that you may encounter. sense of adventure.
300km-long Louisiade Archipelago. They connect Port Moresby and Lae is the poorly It’s worth poking around the cemetery amid
range from tiny dots to mountainous islands maintained Hiritano Hwy. As it stands today the recently restored headstones for the grave GETTING THERE & AWAY
like Fergusson, Normanby and Goodenough the waterways between Kikori and Kerema of M Bourgade, one of France’s top WWI air PMVs leave Monday, Wednesday, Saturday
which, while only 26km wide, soars to 2566m and the impassable road between Kerema aces, who died here of Malaria while working and Sunday from Port Moresby’s Erima
at the summit of Mt Oiautukekea, mak- and Malalaua still render overland travel as a mission worker. PMV stop for Poukama (K13, four hours)
90 CENTRAL PROVINCE •• Magi Highway Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com KOKODA TRACK •• Planning 91
and connect with the waiting dinghies which graze along the walking paths, and there are
will run you to the island for K5. Poukama is tree kangaroos and parrots in an enclosure. A WING AND A PRAYER
little more than a car park and barter market Diving costs A$60 for one or A$150 for three The Goilala airstrips are some of the most exhilarating in PNG, and that’s saying something.
located down a dirt road 38km past Agivairu dives (including equipment), and a four-day All of them are white-knuckle, jaw-clenching rides on incredibly short runways. Move over
and about 160km from Moresby. PADI certification course costs A$500. Disneyland.
To continue towards Kerema you have to Loloata offers a range of tours (such At Tapini the strip is carved into a hillside and because it runs steeply uphill and ends in a
catch a Port Moresby-bound PMV back to as Varirata National Park, Sogeri, Owers’ sheer face, pilots only dare come in one way. It gets worse: Ononge’s ridgetop airstrip has a
Agivairu and transfer there (at Anna Pino’s Corner) as well as massages on the premises. dogleg halfway down, forcing the pilot to make a 10-degree turn mid-landing! Fane is another
store) onto a Malalaua–bound vehicle. If To get there, drive out on the Rigo Rd (which rough strip along the spine of a mountain; when the plane takes off, over the cliff edge, you’re
they are all full and this proves impossible, meets the airport road in Six Mile) to the either falling or flying – most definitely praying. Woitape is slippery when wet and, being built
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
ing day as the Hiritano has experienced recent Alternatively, call ahead and the resort bus will
raskol (bandit) activity. collect you from the airport or your hotel.
2400
2200
2000 Brigade
Hill
(1415m)
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
First of nine Views to Mt Victoria, Efogi
1400 false crests Mt Tamata & Manari (1145m)
(walking from (1130m)
Ioribaiwa Kokoda) View to
Ridge Manari
1200 Imita (850m) Naoro
Owers' Golden Ridge Manari
Views to (850m)
Corner Stairs (850m) Imita
1000 (885m) (Steps long Ridge Ofi
Uberi since Creek Swamps
(440m) destroyed) Ioribaiwa (800m)
800 (abandoned)
Goldie
River Va Ule
(420m) Creek
600
(300m)
400
200
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
Walking Time from Owers' Corner (Hours)
rehydration salts – maintaining your fluid and the trek or giving up along the way. One car- (even in the dry season). A poncho is a good, Be sure to bring zip-lock bags for any papers
carbohydrate levels is critical (see p325). rier between two or three is a good idea. If the multipurpose option. Prepare yourself with and maps, lest you sweat them to death.
Whether you are on an organised trek weight becomes too much, you can employ a comprehensive medical kit (see p320). The Maps of varying vintage are available in
or walking with locals, ensure that you a carrier in most villages along the track, but total weight of your pack should not exceed Port Moresby from the National Mapping Bureau
have comprehensive individual medical they are getting busier as the route becomes 15kg. Local fruits and vegetables are available (NMB; %327 6223; [email protected]; Melanesian Way,
insurance. more popular. Pay guides about K80 per day in villages, but you or your carriers will need Waigani), though they’re more interesting than
and carriers about K60 per day, plus K20 per to carry the rest. necessary. The Longitudinal Cross-Section of
Guides & Carriers day for food and lodgings; you’ll also need to the Kokoda Trail (1995) has useful descriptive
If you’re trekking independently, don’t do pay their airfares back home. Information Sources notes and detailed sections of tricky areas. See
it without a good guide. A personal rec- Apart from the books mentioned below, the p103 for book recommendations.
ommendation is best – the Kokoda Track When to Trek forum (www.kokodatrail.com.au/forums) has a sec-
Authority in Port Moresby is a good place Most trekking companies operate between tion devoted to personal accounts and arti- Organised Treks
to start. You could also try asking other March and October, but the coolest, dri- cles from people who have walked the trek. You can choose to walk the track with one
trekkers on the www.kokodatrail.com.pg/ est and best months to trek are from May Trekking operators’ websites and the PNG of dozens of companies, which takes most of
forums web forum. There are dozens of to September. It could rain at any time of Tourism Authority website (www.png-tourism the hassle out of the preparation, leaving you
guides and carriers working on the track year. Most companies don’t operate between .com) also have good advice and the later has to focus on getting fit. Your choice will de-
and most of them are freelancers. November and February when it is too wet, an up-to-date price list for permits. pend on your budget, interest in the military
It is also possible to hire carriers at Kokoda too dangerous and too uncomfortable. There is an ever-growing number of books campaign, the company’s safety record and
and at Variatta National Park near Sogeri, about the Kokoda campaign, though only one how it deals with emergencies, and what
although you can’t just expect them to be What to Bring that is worth carrying with you. Clive Baker’s sort of relationship you want with the car-
able to drop everything at a moment’s notice You can’t go without a comfortable pair of The Kokoda Trek has a full description of the riers. Costs depend on the length of the trek,
and head off. The maximum that a carrier can boots or running shoes with good grip. You’ll trek. Baker’s book, and almost any other on whether it includes airfares from Australia,
carry (and is permitted to do so under KTA also need a tent with fly (some tour compa- the subject, can be bought from the on-line what equipment is provided and whether you
rules) is 15kg. nies provide these); a water bottle or a water mail order shop (www.warbooks.com.au). It also has employ a carrier or not. See the websites for
On your own or in a group, having a carrier bladder, to be refilled from streams as you plans for a Kokoda news item page for the full details and make sure you are comparing
might mean the difference between finishing go; a light sleeping bag; and wet-weather gear latest stories that emerge. like with like.
94 KOKODA TRACK •• Planning lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com K O K O D A T R A C K • • G e t t i n g t o & f r o m t h e T re k 95
Mt Bellamy
2400 (2190m)
Kokoda Gap
Lookout
2000m
2200 Lake Templeton's
Myola Crossing No. 1 1910m
(1850m) Templeton's
2000 View to Mt Crossing No. 2
Victoria & Kagi (1700m)
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
1600
CENTRAL, ORO
(1340m) (1375m)
1400
Deniki
1200 (abandoned;
930m)
1000
800
Hoi
600 (370m) Kokoda
Kovelo (340m)
400
200
0
25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50
Walking Time from Owers' Corner (Hours)
In 2001 the Kokoda Track Authority issued other each year between 2004 and 2007. This company Koiari Treks & Tours (%689 3621; koiaritreks@global a 4WD to reach Owers’ Corner, taking the
permits for 76 walkers. In 2006 it issued 3747 sponsors the Kokoda Track Challenge foot race (see p101). .net.pg) Narai Billy has lead many Kokoda expeditions. turn-off just before Sogeri – look for a white-
permits and numbers for 2007 were expected Kokoda Treks & Tours (www.kokoda.com.au; A$2700) Kokoda Holidays (%683 2758; kokodaholidays@ painted stone war memorial. At McDonald’s
to exceed even these! For information about When it comes to knowledge of the campaign, Frank Taylor daltron.com.pg) This small operation is run by David Corner there is a strange metal sculpture of
rules, fees and operators see www.pngtourism is hard to beat. Treks are organised with military precision Soru. a soldier; this is where the road once ended
.org.pg/ActivitiesEvents/kokodatrail.htm. Some of and include a trip to Buna and Gona. Fair value. Kokoda Trail Legend Guided Tours (%323 6165; and the track started, but the actual track now
the main players in this increasingly lucrative PNG Trekking Adventures (www.pngtrekkingadven fax 323 6020; [email protected]) Max Kaso has been starts further on at Owers’ Corner. PMVs run
space include the following. tures.com) Highly regarded trekking company operated by guiding Kokoda walkers for years. from Gordons Market in Port Moresby to
Adventure Kokoda (www.kokodatreks.com; A$4895) long-time Australian expats based in Port Moresby. These Sogeri early in the morning. From there,
This high-profile company is led by Charlie Lynn, son of a tours are limited to 12 to 15 walkers at a time. GETTING TO & FROM THE TREK you’ll need to wait and hope for a lift to
WWII Kokoda digger. This company has featured on many The Kokoda Track runs between Owers’ Owers’ Corner or start walking the 16km.
TV programmes. One of the best operators. Several of PNG’s larger tour operators also Corner in Central Province and Kokoda in The Kokoda Track Authority (p91) can help
Ecotourism Melanesia (%323 4518; www.em.com run treks, including South Pacific Tours (spt@global Oro Province. At the southern end you’ll need arrange transport. Note: due to the rutty and
.pg) Perhaps the largest locally owned inbound tour .net.pg) and Niugini Tours (www.nghols.com).
operator in PNG. Its tours are not cheap, but it lives up to It’s quite possible to walk the Kokoda Track
an excellent reputation. if you’re already on the ground in PNG. Be WARNING
Executive Excellence (www.executiveexcellence.com sure to ask whether your guides have insur-
The Kokoda Track is not PNG’s most difficult trek, but it’s no walk in the park either. As
.au; A$6250) Known by some as the ‘men in tights’, this ance and what their evacuation plans are
galahad_at_large on www.lonelyplanet.com/bluelist put it – ‘practice by climbing the stairs in
Brisbane-based operation employs ex-soldiers and includes (if you break an ankle). Of the many local
an office tower at home. For realism, cover yourself in mud, carry a sack of onions on your back
a full pre-departure training programme. Kokoda trekking operators, the Kokoda
and wear slippery shoes’.
Kokoda Trekking (www.kokodatrekking.com.au; with/ Track Authority’s recommendations include
Aim to do it in nine days, not six. Take advantage of the services of local carriers and never
without porter A$2360/1850) This PNG-owned company the following:
walk with fewer than four people. If there is an accident, two can get help and one can stay
has no expert guides, which makes their trips cheaper and Fuzzy Wuzzy Expeditions (contact KTA; %323 6165;
with the injured. Robberies and conflicts among traditional landowners have led to the track’s
often encourages greater interaction with local guides and [email protected]) Defol Orere is an
closure in the past, but in recent years the situation has been fairly calm. Still, it’s worth keep-
carriers. Good feedback, but historical knowledge is limited. experienced tour leader who also works with the Kokoda
ing an ear open.
Kokoda Trekking put more walkers on the Track than any Track Authority.
96 K O K O D A T R A C K • • T h e T re k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels O R O P R O V I N C E • • P o p o n d e t t a 105
slippery surface, the road is often impassable, There are about three resthouses in Efogi – the biggest (Continued from page 96) Grace Eroro’s Guesthouse, and travellers have
so be prepared to walk at least part of it if village on the track. reported that it’s good value.
required. See also Shortcuts, right. Day 4: Efogi–Kagi–Mt Bellamy (12km, seven hours) If you want a little taste of the track, you can Limited food and, mercifully, beer is usu-
An hour of climbing and descending past Efogi is Kagi, walk down to the Goldie River from Owers’ ally available from Kokoda’s trade stores; send
THE TREK another spectacular village site. From here, the track Corner in just an hour or so. If you have the a runner ahead to organise ice.
Depending on how fit you are, it takes between climbs to its highest point at Mt Bellamy. You can side-trip energy, struggle up what was once the Golden
six and 11 days to traverse the track. The itin- to Myola in three to four hours return. Along the way, and Staircase to Imita Ridge. Getting There & Away
erary shown here starts at Owers’ Corner, but just off the track, is the huge crater where a WWII bomber Another option would be to fly in to Kagi, Most people fly into or out of Kokoda on
just as many people walk the other way, which blew up and scattered aircraft parts in all directions. Your Efogi or Manari, walk a section and fly out. a flight chartered by their tour company.
involves about 550m more climbing. By taking guide/carrier should know the place. Flying to Kagi and walking to Manari (one Airlines PNG flies to and from Port Moresby
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
ing village life. The average trekker walks about Crossing, followed by another up, down and up to Alola A cheaper option is to get to Kokoda and which has daily Air Niugini connections to
50 hours from beginning to end. No itinerary – quite a tiring section. walk to the Isurava Memorial and back. Allow the capital.
is set in stone; this one is indicative only. Day 6: Alola–Kokoda (19km, 10 hours) When you two full days of trekking, overnighting in the PMVs (K15, 3½ hours) leave Kokoda for
Day 1: Owers’ Corner–Va Ule Creek campsites reach the Isurava Memorial, allow yourself at least an hour Isuravo Memorial trekkers hut. Popondetta at 1pm and sometimes at the un-
(10km, six hours) The campsites are about one to 1½ at the old battle site. It’s a most impressive and moving godly hours of midnight to 2am (so that locals
hours past Imita Ridge. Watch for the extensive weapon place. After the memorial there is an optional two-hour KOKODA can get at the front of the bank queue). Rusty’s
pits on the northern face of Imita Ridge, where the detour to a wrecked Japanese aircraft with its paintwork The Owen Stanley Range rises almost sheer Place (left) has its own colourful PMV which
Australians made their last stand in 1942. still clearly visible. It is a steep climb and you will need as a cliff face behind the Oro Province vil- is possible to charter.
Day 2: Va Ule Creek campsites–Naoro (17km, eight a guide. lage of Kokoda, where the northern end of
the track terminates. It’s a sleepy place and
hours) The track follows the original wartime route over
Ioribaiwa Ridge. A memorial is being installed on the ridge Shortcuts
Not everybody is up for the full trek – there
the grassed area in the centre of town houses
a small museum that has photos and descrip-
ORO PROVINCE
and on the slopes there are many interesting weapon Oro Province (often called Northern
pits, bunkers and relics. Naoro has spectacular 270-degree are ways of having the Kokoda experience tions of the campaign. Ask around to have it
without taking on the full challenge. opened. Grace Eroro (%329 7536) is the postal Province) is sandwiched between the Solomon
views over the valley and there is a large resthouse. Sea and the Owen Stanley Range. It’s physi-
Day 3: Naoro–Efogi (19km, seven hours) About halfway You could take a PMV from Port Moresby agent and Airlines PNG representative in
to the village of Madilogo, which avoids Kokoda, and she is a great source of infor- cally beautiful but an uninspiring capital and
between these points there are three resthouses in Manari poor transport connections mean few travel-
village. After the long climb up Brigade Hill you suddenly two hard days’ walk from Owers’ Corner to mation. Opposite the post office is a branch
Naoro. It takes about two hours to reach the of Kokoda Track Authority where trekking lers make it.
come into the open and have a wide panorama down the Oro Province is the home of the world’s
1942 battlefield, across to Kagi and Mt Bellamy in the track from Madilogo; from there it’s one to permits can be bought if you haven’t already
1½ hours to Naoro. done so in Port Moresby. Trekkers finishing largest butterfly, the Queen Alexandra’s
distance and Efogi, just below you. On a clear day you can Birdwing. You might think that you’ve seen
see all the way back to Hombrum and Varirata, near Sogeri. (Continued on page 105)
the trail should also report here to be officially
stamped off the trail. some big butterflies in PNG, but these are
monsters, with wingspans of nearly 30cm.
Sleeping & Eating The first specimen collected by a European
BEFORE YOU BOOK was brought down by a shotgun! That but-
There are a couple of resthouses in Kokoda
Price may be one of the main determining factors when selecting a trekking company but there and all of them allow you to pitch your tent terfly, a little damaged, is still in the British
are other considerations that are just as important. It’s worth asking a few questions before on their camping grounds. The Kokoda Museum. The Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing
handing over a fist full of kina. Mountain View Lodge, behind the trade store is now a threatened species. It lays its eggs
If you are particularly keen on the military history of the trail, then a company with knowl- that sells beer (you’ll soon find it), has a couple on a particular species of vine which is poi-
edgeable guides is a must. Ask specific questions such as: What sites will you be shown? What of huts. The Kokoda Memorial Hospital has sonous to most birds and animals; the but-
level of information can you expect from your guide? some dormitories with toilets, showers, gas terfly is poisonous as well.
Most trekking companies carry a satellite phone or a two-way radio; if they don’t have one
stoves and kitchen utensils. Money goes to-
wards much-needed medical supplies. POPONDETTA
and there’s a problem, no-one will hear the screams. Popondetta, which is the provincial capi-
About 2.5km along the road to Popondetta
How is their safety record? Besides your own insurance, which is essential, what additional is Rusty’s Place (%325 4423, 323 6650; per person incl tal, is spread along the Oro Bay Hwy a
insurances do they carry and what does it cover? meals K60), run by Russell Eroro (who operates few kilometres from the old administra-
Ask about their equipment; if they are supplying tents it may be possible to inspect them. Kokoda Trekking Tours, the on-the-ground tive capital of Higaturu. Popondetta exists
part of the www.kokodatrail.com.pg opera- because the previous two provincial head-
While agony loves company, it’s a trail, not a highway. Ask how many people form your group.
tion) and his extended family. It’s a friendly quarters were ill-fated: the one on the coast
What is their code of ethics? Do they pay guides and porters reasonable wages? Besides your was invaded by the Japanese and destroyed,
place, the food is good and there’s a small
Kokoda Track Authority fee, does the company contribute to local communities in any mean- and the other – moved safely inland after
stoa (store). Accommodation is simple (but
ingful way? And does it carry out accumulated rubbish or dump it behind a tree? the war – was destroyed by the eruption of
there are showers!) or you can camp on their
lawn and swim in the river. Near Rusty’s is Mt Lamington.
106 O R O P R O V I N C E • • P o p o n d e t t a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com O R O P R O V I N C E • • O r o B a y 107
It’s not a pretty place, with dust, litter and Buna Historical Foundation (%329 7627). He lives a milk run that began in Port Moresby on TUFI
idle people seeming to predominate. Most two doors east of the Oro Guesthouse. These Sunday and stopped at Popondetta, Tufi Carefree and far away from the world, Tufi is
of those who come here do so to see the guys charge about K100 for their guiding and Alotau before running back to Moresby one of PNG’s best-kept secrets. On the stun-
area’s WWII history – Buna and Gona are and will generally arrange to take you by on Monday. This suspended flight may yet ningly beautiful Cape Nelson, where steep-
an easy day trip – or as part of a slow boat PMV and boat to both sites, which is im- be resumed. sided rias penetrate the land like the fingers
trip along the coast. It’s also a good base for portant because without a boat you can’t of a grasping hand, this picturesque spot has
visiting Mt Lamington. get from one to the other without returning BOAT a more relaxed atmosphere than any city in
Popondetta itself has an Australian war to Popondetta. You could go by PMV to All boats leave from Oro Bay; see below. the country. Once home to fishing and rub-
memorial with an interesting map of nearby Gona for K3. Another good option is Pol ber industries, now the settlement heavily
battle sites and an adjoining memorial to the Toki at the Birdwing Butterfly Lodge, who PMV relies on tourists drawn to the excellent Tufi
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
around alone at night. photograph of fuzzy wuzzy angel Raphael leave from beneath the large trees outside the resort. Several villages within two
Oimbari leading blinded Australian soldier Oro Motors in the centre of town. PMVs for hours of Tufi welcome guests to their bush-
Information Dick Whittington. Oro Bay (K5, 40 minutes) and the airport material guesthouses, some of them set under
EMERGENCY leave from one block south. Ask at your hotel swaying palm trees beside sandy beaches,
Ambulance (%329 7066) Sleeping & Eating for times, which vary, but PMV runs are which is a truly idyllic way to spend a few
Fire (%329 7172, 329 7144) Oro Guesthouse (%329 7127; fax 329 7246; r incl 2 meals usually in the morning. days. If you’re around for the Queen’s
Police (%329 7333) K148-172) There is a range of rooms and prices Birthday weekend in June you might catch
here that need some decoding. Ask about dis- Getting Around the Tufi Cultural Show (admission K175 for
MONEY counted prices for students with ID, backpack- Popondetta is small enough to walk around. three days), a relatively intimate singsing (cel-
Bank South Pacific (%329 7171) ers and those who’ve walked the Kokoda Track PMVs on the Oro Bay to Popondetta Hwy ebratory dance/festival) with groups mainly
(K105). The rooms are simple, and those with pass the airport, though they’re not that fre- from Oro Province. Check www.tufidive.com
Sights & Activities shared bathrooms are cheaper (twin including quent, especially on Sunday. Your best bet for dates.
The 1585m peak of Mt Lamington is clearly visible two meals K175). The food includes plenty of is to get a lift with a local or one of your fel- The cape was formed by ancient eruptions
from Popondetta (there’s a good view on the local vegetables. Alcohol is banned. It’s only a low passengers. Otherwise, use Lamington of its three volcanoes and the lava which
road to the airport). The mountain still shakes 10 minute walk from town but Kokoda PMVs Lodge’s airport shuttle or, if you’re on the flowed down into the sea creating the rias,
and puffs a little and local residents paid no at- will drop you here if you ask. early flight, a lift with the Air Niugini staff for which the cape is now famous.
tention to a slight increase in activity in 1951. Lamington Lodge (%329 7222; www.coralseahotels from behind their town office – be there
However when the mountainside suddenly blew .com.pg; s/tw K225/286; a) Part of the Coral Sea about 5.30am. Sights & Activities
out and a cloud of super-heated gases rushed chain, this is the best hotel in town but easily Diving is one of Tufi’s great attractions;
down, about 3000 people died and 8000 were the worst in the chain. Lack of competition ORO BAY there is consistent 30m-plus visibility and
left homeless. It is estimated the temperature means it’s overpriced, but it does have the Oro Bay is the province’s main port. It became one diver we met said ‘there are more fish
stood near 200°C for about 90 seconds, and the only bar and restaurant (meals K35, open a major American base after the Japanese had than water out there’. Maloway, Cyclone Reef
gas cloud rolled down at over 300km/h. for lunch and dinner) in town; the dishes, been prised out of Buna and Gona, though and Marion Reef are memorable, and the
Mt Lamington has been fairly calm since including steak, pasta, curries and fish, are the bustle of those days is long gone. Today muck diving under Tufi wharf is exceptional.
and keen bushwalkers can climb it today. reasonably good. The staff here can find local it’s a quiet place with occasional banana-boat Nearby are some WWII ships easily acces-
The Oro Guesthouse and Birdwing Butterfly guides to visit Buna and Gona. traffic up and down the coast, and two larger sible in shallow water, while the famous B17
Lodge can provide information and arrange Birdwing Butterfly Lodge (%329 7477; birdwing@ boats travelling weekly to Lae. ‘Black Jack’ bomber is down the coast. For
guides, and Ecotourism Melanesia (www.em.com.pg) daltron.com.pg; r with/without 2 meals K245/190) This If your ship doesn’t come in, it’s not a bad a full list of dives, with pictures, see www
has trekking tours around Mt Lamington. friendly place, 1.5km northeast of town on the place to hang out. The Oro Bay Guesthouse (s incl .tufidive.com/diving.html. Tufi Dive Resort
The villages of Buna and Gona became road to Gona, has simple, clean rooms with meals K80) is on the water’s edge near the wharf, (p108) has dive boats and a fully equipped
Japanese bases during WWII and were the shared kitchens. Owner Pol Toki is a good guy but it’s a 30-minute walk around the bay to dive shop. The dive season is from September
scene of some of the most desperate fight- who can arrange stays in Seremi village. the PMV boats. to May. From June to August, high winds
ing of the war. At Giropa Plantation, on the The Edna Resort Centre (s incl meals K100) has make diving difficult.
Buna Rd, a Japanese plaque commemorates Getting There & Away a few simple two-room bungalows. Contact Local villages can provide outrigger canoes
the country’s dead. AIR the Birdwing Butterfly Lodge (opposite) (the standard form of transport) if you want
Most of what remains of the bases is cov- Girua airport is 15km from town and one for bookings. to go fishing, and the dive resort’s dive boat
ered with overgrowth and a guide is nec- of several wartime strips in the area. From Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) has a also does fishing trips.
essary to work out what went on where. the air, you’ll notice the area around the air- weekly boat to Lae (18 hours) and another There is a network of tracks in the area
Basil Tindeba, from Buna, knows his way strip is scattered with horseshoe mounds – to Alotau (K120, economy class only) call- ideal for trekking. Many follow the ria
around the area pretty well; ask for him at the remains of WWII gun emplacements. ing at all ports in between including Tufi around the coast. Other tracks can be quite
the Oro Guesthouse and try to give a few Air Niugini (%329 7022), next to the post of- (K105). Banana boats to Tufi (K50) run difficult; you must be fit. Tufi Dive Resort
days’ notice. Another recommended guide fice, has flights to and from Port Moresby if the winds aren’t too high and usually can arrange a guide and village stays, or you
is Maclaren Hiari MBE, who runs the Kokoda (K295, 40 minutes, daily). Airlines PNG had leave mid-morning. could take your chances and ask around
108 O R O P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d Tu f i Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u 109
CENTRAL, ORO
the bar at the Tufi Dive Resort. Hot, Straight & True is Hamachek’s novel about PT boat opera- infrastructure and limited arable land have soak up the atmosphere in what is one of
tions in New Guinea. hindered the region’s development. the most laid-back, secure and enjoyable
To many Australians, Milne Bay is towns in the country. Spend a night drink-
synonymous with the 1942 WWII bat- ing with locals, nationals and expats alike,
yourself. The villages and the resort can Wanigela you can hire a banana boat (K90, and you’ll soon know what’s going on and
arrange boats to pick you up at various loca- 30 minutes). Getting to the villages around tles fought here between Japanese and
Australian forces (see boxed text, p88). who’s going where.
tions at the end of your walk. Tufi is usually done on foot or by outrig-
Orchids, birds and butterflies can also ger canoe; you’ll be expected to help with Today the only bombs falling from above
are likely to be coconuts. Information
been seen in the surrounding jungles and the paddling. EMERGENCY
again, Tufi Dive Resort can arrange guides Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) boats from The far-flung Trobriand Islands are prov-
ing to be culturally resilient and as exotic Ambulance (%641 1200)
to view these. Alotau stop here on their weekly run be- Fire (%641 1055, 641 1014)
tween Alotau and Oro Bay. a destination as the father of modern an-
Sleeping & Eating thropology, Bronsilaw Malinowski, first de- Police (%641 1391; Charles Abel Hwy)
Tufi Dive Resort (%323 3462 in Port Moresby, 275 3200 scribed them to be.
AROUND TUFI INTERNET ACCESS
in Tufi; www.tufidive.com; s incl meals K290-330) Located Besides the Alotau International Hotel
a short distance from the grassy airstrip, this There are village guesthouses (s K90) that dot Culture
the coastline either side of Tufi and you (available to nonguests), there is only one
upmarket resort is wonderfully appropriate Milne Bay is home to large numbers
could spend weeks wending your way along other option.
to the area. It’s quiet, has comfortable chairs, of Polymesians or Motuans who have
the coast in this way. The accommodation Bayside Internet Cafe (%641 1490; Masurina Business
a friendly bar and a very relaxed atmosphere. successfully grafted traditional beliefs
is basic, with mosquito nets and local food Centre, Charles Abel Hwy; per hr K26; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri,
There is a broad-ranging library, video col- onto contemporary church teachings,
(the seafood is tasty). Boat transfers cost 8am-12.30pm Sat)
lection and a great cliffside barbecue area which can be confusing for the uniniti-
with spectacular views across the ria. The extra. The guesthouses can also arrange ated. Witchcraft is widely respected and MONEY
rooms are all comfortable, but if you’re in fishing and snorkelling; bring your own still practised, especially on the islands. Bank South Pacific (%641 1284; h6am-6pm) Has
the budget range ask for Room 3. The food is gear. It’s best, though not essential, to con- Contract killings can still be arranged with two ATMs; charges K50 for cashing travellers cheques.
delicious. Diving is the main attraction and tact them ahead, and this is done through local witch doctors, who sometimes em- Westpac (%641 1003) Has an ATM; charges K20 for
reliable equipment (half/full day K50/100) the Tufi Dive Resort (left). ploy the spiritual powers of cyanide from cashing travellers cheques. Currency exchange for euros,
is available. An outer-reef trip (K145 per Most of the villages offer treks, bird- disused mining operations. and Australian, New Zealand and US dollars.
dive) entices most people to go for a two- watching, snorkelling, fishing and par- In most island societies landownership
dive outing. Open-water certification costs ticipation in singsings. Some of the better falls under matrilineal lore; family rights POST
K950 and there are plans to bring in a live- options include the following: are passed down through the mother. Clan Post Office (%641 1207; in the town centre)
aboard boat to access sites further afield. Bauwame Guesthouse (30min dinghy ride to south leaders and the paramount chief are still
There is a fun ria tour by boat and kayak, of Tufi) Standing on a coral reef, it offers great access to men, but behind the scenes women wield TOURIST INFORMATION
and fishing, windsurfing and trekking can impressive sites for snorkelling and bird-watching. considerable power. Education Milne Bay (%6410146; emb@online
be arranged. The resort encourages people Jebo Guesthouse (1hr dinghy ride to south of Tufi) In many of the region’s cultures, people .net.pg) Local and international groups contact these
to get into the local villages and can connect Located on a white-sand beach in Sinofuka village. were traditionally buried standing up with former schoolteachers to organise outdoor and cultural
you with whichever you choose; see Around Sinofuka literally means ‘pig and dog’! There’s a their heads poking out of the ground. Their programmes. Generally such tours focus on environmental
Tufi, right. waterfall where you can swim, and birds of paradise heads were then covered over by clay pots. and community development utilising their impressive
can be seen. When the heads eventually separated from Wanigili centre.
Getting There & Around Kamoa Beach Guesthouse (15min outrigger canoe the bodies, the pots were removed and the Gretta Kwasnicka-Todurawai (Napatana Lodge, p112)
Airlines PNG flies to and from Port Moresby ride to the mouth of Tufi ria) Pretty beach. skulls were then placed in a skull cave. Gretta is a veteran traveller and knows what independent
(K447) on Mondays and Fridays. Kofure Guesthouse (30min outrigger canoe ride to These caves are common in the area and travellers need. She has produced a folder detailing all kinds
See p107 for information on small boats north of Tufi) White sands, palm trees and the best food of clay pots are a traditional (and popular) of excursions around Milne Bay. Gretta is very honest – she’ll
to and from Oro Bay. Between Tufi and any of the villages. regional artefact. call a spade a fucking shovel – and a great PNG character.
110 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u 111
15
CENTRAL, ORO
the resort directly. Island Adventure Tours (%641 1358; islandtours@
To Gurney Airport
(15km)
TOP TOWN Dive Milne Bay (%641 1421; [email protected]; datec.net.pg) operates a glass-bottomed boat and
Charles Abel Hw
2 23
y
9 17 Charles Abel Hwy) no longer runs dive trips but it a basic guesthouse east of Alotau at Divinai
18 7
1 8 22 Hospital still fills tanks (K15) and hires scuba equip- village. Its office is based in the mustard-
2 27
19
3
28 ment (full kit K130). coloured house near Education Milne Bay.
Alotau 4 16
13 20
Market 29 5
From time to time, dive charter boats are
14
10 6 based here including the 10-berth Telita (www Festivals & Events
26
21 24 25 .telitadive.com), the MV Golden Dawn (www.goldendawn The Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival (first full
DRINKING Star Ships &
Cameron Club........................20 B2 Bay Cabs................................24 C3 Trade Boats Berth .com) and the Marlin 1 (www.marlin1charters.com.au), weekend in November) made a successful
Napatana Lodge Bar............(see 18) PMV boats to Samarai Island..25 D3 Sanderson GOILANI a 50ft vessel specialising in research and hy- debut in 2004 and is definitely worth see-
Cha
Jetty........................................21 C3 PMV Boats to Waguwagu......26 B3 Bay
PMVs to the North Coast drographic survey charters. ing. Ocean-going barges bring canoes from
rles
3 SHOPPING & East Cape.......................27 B2 For more on diving see p58. as far away as Daru to compete for pride and
Ab
Barbara's Fashion Shop..........(see 4) PMVs to the North Coast Milne Bay
el
12
& East Cape.......................28 C2 price money. Dozens of canoes, some with
Hwy
TRANSPORT PMVs to South Coast & Gurney
Air Niugini.............................(see 4) Airport...............................29 B2
FISHING 40-plus warriors, adorned in traditional dress
Airlines PNG...........................22 B2 Pool Room Taxis..................(see 27) For the sports fisherman, Milne Bay has a and paddling to the beat of island drums,
Avis.......................................23 A2 Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships)..(see 4) To Ahioma (9km);
East Cape (56km) number of game fish worth trolling, jigging leaves a powerful impression. The races are
and casting for – giant marlin, sailfish, wahoo, held amidst much rivalry and celebrated
Malabu Cafe (%641 0900; [email protected]; Back on the foreshore, the recently com- dogtooth tuna, mackerel, barramundi and with equally as much revelry. For details see
Masurina Business Centre; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, missioned Australian War Memorial has a de- the Papuan black bass. If you bring your own www.milnebayt ourism.gov.pg.
8am-1.30pm Sat) This kai bar is run by Rod and Serah tailed description of the Battle of Milne Bay. tackle you could talk to local boat handlers The colourful Cameron Cultural Show (bien-
Clark who have affiliations with Butia Lodge on the There’s a service here on 26 August every year, and arrange to hire your own dinghy for nially on even numbered years) is held on
Trobriand Islands. They are a good source of information commemorating the beginning of the Battle around K200 per day plus fuel. the first weekend of the third term of school.
for the islands but in their eagerness to get guests may of Milne Bay. The well-organised Milne Bay Game Fishing Parents travel to the high school’s cultural
promise non-existent Milamala festivities. At the other end of town, Cameron Secondary Club (%641 0496; [email protected]) can ad- village to decorate their children and instruct
Milne Bay Tourist Bureau (%641 1503; www School welcomes visitors to its cultural village vise on boats and is happy to find some gear them on the finer techniques of traditional
.milnebaytourism.gov.pg; Charles Abel Hwy; h8am- in the afternoon between 2.30pm and 3.30pm for you, particularly during one of the regu- dance. Local art exhibitions and a beauty
4pm Mon-Fri) Hopelessly under-resourced centre, but the when students have finished their studies and lar competitions or the annual Milne Bay pageant are also held. The Hagita Cultural Show
friendly women here do a fantastic job in pointing travel- are free to show guests around. Donations Classic, which takes place on the first weekend (also biennially on even numbered years) is a
lers in the right direction. They will answer your emails, should be made to the school library and not of December. similar deal and held near the airport for the
book accommodation, arrange village-stays, advise to the students themselves. The other option is to clamber aboard a Catholic high school students.
on transport and keep you informed on the province’s There are several good black-sand swimming Driftwood (%641 1346, 641 0136; http://driftwoodpng
festivals. beaches to the east of town towards Ahioma, .com; half-/full-day fishing safari for 2 adults A$225/400) Sleeping & Eating
although they’re not obvious from the road. charter. Operating from a newly built bou- Apart from the kai bars in the centre of
Sights & Activities PMVs run past and it’s dead easy to hitch a tique hotel (p112), Driftwood offers both town, with their usual fare of fried chicken,
The harbour is the most colourful part of town ride along this stretch of road, though obvi- saltwater and freshwater fishing safaris using local veggies and greasy chips, the hotels
and it’s worth exploring. There are one-man ously women should be more cautious. It’s quality Shimano equipment in a variety of and guesthouses are the only food and
canoes, brightly painted island boats, work possible to ride horses through the oil palm boats at a range of prices. drink options around. Mabewa, a fruit in-
tugs and passenger vessels. The busy harbour plantations on the outskirts of town; contact digenous to Milne Bay, is sometimes sold at
activity attests to it being the province’s main Ken Fitzgerald (%686 5882) if you are keen, al- Organised Tours the town market.
cargo hub. For a bird’s-eye view of the har- though he can be notoriously difficult to get Florah Todurawai (%698 0738 or through Napatana Saugere Guesthouse (%/fax 641 0165; per person
bour, walk up the steps in town to the hospital, hold of. Otherwise, ask the staff at either the Lodge p112; s excl travel costs per day 10K) is an excellent with/without 3 meals K120/50) Located on the water-
take the right fork and keep going for a couple tourist bureau or at Napatana Lodge if they local guide. She accompanies tourists to any front west of Napatana, this is the cheapest
of hundred metres. can help. of the destinations described here for next to place in town and has a casual and hospitable
112 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A l o t a u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d A l o t a u 113
atmosphere. There are two beds per room and K35, open 7am to 8.30am, noon to 1.30pm Getting There & Away Getting Around
there are shared bathrooms. and 7pm to 9pm) serves a mix of tasty dishes AIR Alotau’s airport is at Gurney, 15km from
Beto Transit House (%641 9110; s/d/f K60/75/90) and every second Friday the barbecue buffet As has been the case for years now, there town, and was named after Bob Gurney,
The rooms here are comfortably tired – a bit (K25) located by the poolside bar is excellent are rumours of an international flight be- an Australian who began flying for Guinea
tatty around the edges with a lived-in feel. It’s value. Meal packages and weekend discounts tween Cairns (Australia) and Alotau. Air Airways in 1929 and was killed in action with
popular with locals from the islands who like are available. Niugini (%641 1031; Masurina Business Centre, Charles the RAAF in 1942.
to congregate around the small canteen. There Alotau International Hotel (%641 0300; www.alotau Abel Hwy) has one or two flights between Port Taxis travelling to town cost K35, but most
is a shared kitchen and bathroom. internationalhotel.com.pg; Charles Abel Hwy; r K330; Moresby and Gurney (K458, 50 minutes, hotels provide transfers for K20 to K25, or for
Bayviews Apartments (%641 0401; bayviewspng@ ais) For size and facilities these rooms, daily). The morning flights are more reliable free. PMVs run to town from the nearby main
daltron.com.pg; budget r K90, s K120-140, d K180; a) each with a balcony and bay view, are pretty and have better onward connections in Port road (K3), but they’re infrequent. PMVs to
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
while the other rooms are larger, lighter and and there’s internet access (per 15 minutes K8). flies on Monday and Friday from Gurney asking someone for a lift. Remember that
airier, but still fairly basic. A toast-and-tea The By the Bay Restaurant (meals K15 to K50, to Misima (K410), then returns to Gurney, although hitching a ride from the airport is
breakfast and airport transfers are included open 6pm to 10pm) has a tasty if somewhat then flies to Losuia (K441) and then to Port commonplace, foreigners (especially women)
in the tariff. Meals (K20) are available and, if eclectic mix of Western and Asian dishes as Moresby (K441). should exercise careful judgment about from
you can arrange a group of 20, they will put well as pizza (K15 to K33). whom they accept a ride.
on a mumu (per person K25). Self-caterers Driftwood (%641 1346, 641 0136; http://driftwoodpng BOAT Alotau is well-served by taxis. Bay Cabs
appreciate the large kitchen. .com; s A$240-300, d A$260-320) This boutique hotel The prices listed here are for adults, one- (%641 1093) is the main taxi company and
Education Milne Bay (%641 0146; [email protected] was still being built when we visited but will way. Children travel for half-price, students sometimes provides car hire. Others include
.pg; s incl 2 meals K115-160; i) Although primarily be opened soon. Five minutes from town, get a 20% discount and families are entitled Pool Room Taxis (%698 0920; Chase Corp Bldg, Charles
geared towards groups on community devel- and having its own wharf and game-fishing to special fares. Apart from the Star Ships, Abel Hwy, Gurney); Gramp’s Taxi (%641 1557) and HT
opment courses, solo travellers can stay in one boats, Driftwood aims to cater to anglers keen work boats service the trade stores on the Taxis (%641 9087).
of the 12 connecting rooms or stand-alone to hook into some of the bay’s marlin and islands and offer uncomfortable, slow and Avis (%641 1273; Charles Abel Hwy) has opened an
bungalows if there’s room. sailfish. There will be three beach and five irregular trips to anywhere with a stoa (store). office next door to Napatana Lodge.
oNapatana Lodge (%641 0588; www.napa garden bungalows as well as an upmarket Getting a ride can mean waiting around
tanalodge.com; Charles Abel Hwy; flashpackers s/d K80/160, Fisherman’s Wharf Restaurant jutting over wharves, asking about destinations and usu- AROUND ALOTAU
bungalows s/d/tr K200/240/260; a) Napatana is the the water. ally adding a few hours to the alleged de- East Cape
pick of Alotau’s accommodation, and now parture times. But once you are on the open East Cape is at the very eastern end of main-
that the ‘flashpackers’ have opened there is Drinking water, sitting atop a load of SP Lager, Kundu land New Guinea. It’s a quiet but picturesque
something in most people’s budget. The flash- Most travellers prefer to drink at their hotel Crackers and margarine, you will be feeling village, where banana boats come and go for
packers are…well, flash. The rooms have their although there are two other places within the province’s charm – until you start feeling Normanby Island (K25) and others, including
own bathroom, cable TV, porch and tea-/ staggering distance of town. very uncomfortable. nearby Yamba Island with its famous 13-trunk
coffee-making facilities. The bungalows are Cameron Club (%641 1088; h4-10pm Mon-Thu, D’Entrecasteaux & Trobriand Islands Has weekly coconut palm (photo fee K20). There’s ter-
even more comfortable, with private balconies to midnight Fri & Sat) Located near the waterfront departures for Salamo (K60), Budoya (K60), Wailagi rific snorkelling and diving in this area and
and crisp, clean bedding. A huge drawcard is west of the centre is the local drinking hole. (K65), Mapamoiwa (K60), Kalokalo (K70), Boyama (K75), a skull cave (K5), which is an hour’s walk
the amount of information on hand and the It’s a large, cavernous space reminiscent of Watuluma (K80) and Losuia (K105). It offers economy away. Guesthouses usually send a boy to show
staff can help arrange any number of day or a rugby clubhouse. There are some large class only. the way.
overnight trips. Upstairs, the Napatana bar snooker tables in the corner and you can bor- North Coast The Samarai Queen travels north calling Many people come here as a day trip from
(meals K25 to K45, open 7am to late) is the row racquets for the squash or tennis courts at all ports to Oro Bay (for Popondetta, K120) including Alotau. The first East Capebound PMV (K7)
place to rub shoulders with expats and nation- (per 30 minutes K8) from the bar. Dogura (K75), Rabaraba (K75), Cape Vogel (K80) and Tufi departs Alotau around 10am and the last one
als alike. There is always something going on – Jetty (Alotau International Hotel; h5pm-midnight Mon- (K105). Economy class only. returns around 3pm, Monday to Saturday.
a pub quiz, some kind of raffle, a joker night Sat) Although it’s built on a wharf, its pretty Port Moresby & China Strait The Morobe Queen runs It’s about 1½ hours each way along a metal
or sport on the open air TV. Friday night’s location can at times be marred by the sound to Port Moresby (economy/1st class/tourist K150/300/350, road that passes many pretty villages and
fish’n’chips (K22), Saturday night’s seafood of locals smashing their bottles against the overnight, Sundays) Travels via Samarai Island. It returns black-sand beaches
buffet (K45, and the crab is sublime) and the side of the building. on Tuesday, arriving Wednesday. If you are planning on snorkelling some
Sunday roasts (K45) are all excellent. Meal Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %641 0012; mona@ of the reefs, hire your gear and buy your own
packages and weekend rates are available. Shopping pngbd.com; Masurina Business Centre, Charles Abel Hwy, zoom (petrol; buy 12 litres) in Alotau (where
Masurina Lodge (%641 1212; www.masurina.com; incl Trobriand Islanders come to Alotau to sell Gurney) Provides scheduled services throughout Milne Bay it’s cheaper). Banana boats (dinghies) can be
breakfast s K105-255, d K210-330; ais) The large, their carvings and they’ll find you around Province, but inclement weather can cause long delays and hired (K30) at the water’s edge to motor you
ageing rooms and apartments are comfortable town. Dive Milne Bay (%641 1421; divemb@online frequent disruptions. to secluded beaches and reefs.
enough and have a distinct feel of Australia .net.pg; Charles Abel Hwy) has the town’s best col- There are plans to make Nuakata Island,
c 1973. Some of the apartments sleep five and lection of Trobriand lime pots, walking sticks PMV a biodiversity ‘hot spot’, Milne Bay’s first
are ideal for families. Rates include laundry and bowls; all reasonably priced. There are PMVs run along the coast to East Cape (K7, protected marine area. Two independent
and airport transfers. Its restaurant (meals small handicraft shops at the top hotels. from 9am) and on to the north coast. marine reef surveys recorded 429 species of
114 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • S a m a r a i I s l a n d 115
reef coral; more than the variety found in the provided which is just as well, as there are The resort is completely hidden from the sea, SAMARAI ISLAND
entire Great Barrier Reef. planti mosquitoes in the wet. The meals (K10 but the views from the main building and Samarai is a speck of an island at the south-
Opposite the Dulia Stoa, Bernhard’s to K20) are delicious and they are served on rooms are exceptional. A series of covered ern tip of the Milne Bay mainland. Just 24
Guesthouse (s K25), is a simple beachside hut the verandas. Warren has masks and snorkels boardwalks through tropical rainforest con- hectares in the China Strait (so named by
that has a pleasant veranda. A little further and can organise tours to all of the sights nect the 15 bungalows. All of this solitude Captain John Moresby because he thought
down the road, near the market, is the rus- mentioned previously. comes at a price, and Australians booking it would be the most direct route from the
tic Oima Guesthouse (s K30), which has a couple PMV boats motor across the bay from the through [email protected] sometimes east coast of Australia to China), Samarai has
of very basic rooms. Both places can supply market wharf (K5, 45 minutes, daily except get better rates than Americans booking seen better times. In its colonial heyday it was
sheets and simple meals (K10), but generally Sundays). They depart when everyone has through [email protected]. said to be one of the most beautiful places
it’s BYO all the way. finished their day’s shopping between 3pm in the Pacific and although no-one is saying
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
On the southern shore of Milne Bay, this tiny You can drive from Alotau in about an 641 0922 in Tawali; coastal 2-tank dive US$80, outer-reef 3-tank still retains a legacy of its former, ordered
settlement in a cove often called Discovery hour and Warren collects his guests from the dive US$150) is excellent and the staff very profes- beauty. The island predates Port Moresby
Bay sits below the steeply rising mountains of airport for K100 each way. sional. Dive courses are not offered here (yet) and was the provincial headquarters until
the southern peninsula. It’s a popular day trip although they do hire equipment and have 1968, when local government realised it had
for divers and snorkellers, who swim around NORTH COAST several dive boats, including two charters, at outgrown the tiny island and left for greener
the mostly submerged Muscoota, a WWII coal The north coast is a string of villages, beaches their disposal. There are some impressive wall pastures. Two years later the international
transport ship that sprang a leak and sank and reefs that reward those who leave the drop-offs, overhangs and caverns along the wharf closed and the town’s been going to
here in 1946. beaten track. There are several good walks, and limestone coastline within a 20-minute boat seed ever since.
At the western end of the beach is a stream with time you could quite easily travel by foot, ride from Tawali. Most sites have abundant Before WWII it was the second-largest
where local women wash their dishes. The PMV and dinghy all the way from East Cape to soft and hard corals, sponges and masses of town in PNG, but in 1942 the Australian ad-
freshwater eels here have grown horribly huge Tufi. A growing number of villages have simple reef fish. There are also a couple of muck-dive ministration destroyed almost every building
on the scraps and for K5 to K10, the women accommodation, including, from east to west: sites nearby but arguably the best dive spots in anticipation of a Japanese invasion that
will allow you to pick up these monsters. Make Boianai, Wagahuhu, Awaiama (Mahimahi are out on the open-water pinnacles with their never came (whoops). Its postwar reincarna-
sure you bring fresh fish to attract them from Plantation Guesthouse; just outside the village), impressive pelagic action. tion was built in Australian country-town
their lairs. Wedau and Bogaboga at Cape Vogel. Occasionally (around August) there are style. A path encircles the island and you can
There are a number of waterfalls but some You can walk from Rabaraba or Wedau stingers in the water whose long, near invis- stroll around it in half an hour.
of these, depending on the landowner’s dis- to Alotau partly on the coast road that takes ible, threads are impossible to avoid and leave Unfortunately there is little in the way of or-
position, may be off-limits. Warren Dipole PMVs depending on the season. There are all exposed flesh red and welted. If your wallet ganised trade since the last trade store closed
from Ulumani Lodge (see below) can arrange many villages enroute so finding a bed is easy. won’t quite stretch to staying the night, it in early 2005; be sure to pack enough food,
guides as well as canoe trips up Dawadawa Rabaraba to Wedau takes two days, and from is possible to visit Tawali as a day trip from water and beer for the duration of your stay.
River, which come highly recommended. Wedau to the tiny Taupota No 2 settlement Alotau. As Tawali is not accessible by road, Wallace Andrew, in the house southwest of
From Wagawaga there is a steep one-hour takes three easy days or two longer ones. Then you will need to let the resort know you are the Christopher Robinson memorial, is a good
walk to Moon Rock (Da’a Nawalahi), which you can reach Alotau in a day by going south coming so the staff can send a car to bring you source of local information. He’s a Kwato
bears markings thought to have been made across a low range, but it’s best to take a local to its wharf (1½ hours) and a boat to ferry you Island old boy, grandson of a cannibal, local
by Europeans as a navigational aid. On the village guide. There are some other good to the resort (10 minutes). The transfer is K50 identity and fascinating character to listen to
way up you’ll pass a skull reputed to greet you routes across the range. For an account of the return per person. (you won’t do much talking).
with a grin; one, two or even a full set of teeth walk from Alotau to Wamira (near Wedau), Tawali Resort prefers to provide a buffet
depending on how much it likes you. Take a see www.michie.net/pnginfo/wamira.html. lunch for its day-trippers. This is usually a Sights & Activities
guide for the trip. Speak with Gretta at Napatana Lodge (p112) hot BBQ, but on the day we visited only a The main thing to do on Samarai is just
Enjoy the stunning panoramic views from or the Milne Bay Tourist Bureau (p110) to cold buffet was served, which at K50 wasn’t wander around soaking up the faded-glory.
Ulumani Treetops Lodge (%/fax 641 0916; www contact the villages and any guides required. exceptional value. From the wharf, head toward the hill and,
.pngbackpacker.com; s K80-180) that span over the PMVs operate from Alotau as far as Topura, Tawali also operates two charter dive at the northeast corner of the sportsground,
jungle and beyond to Milne Bay. If Warren from where you need to walk or take dinghies boats: you’ll pass the memorial to Christopher Robinson,
knows you are coming he’ll collect you from if you want to go further west. MV Chertan (www.chertan.com; per person per day the one-time administrator who committed
the beach in his 4WD. Otherwise it’s a very US$250) Sleeps 10 passengers and is popular with profes- suicide in 1904. The inscription notes he was
steep 30-minute (if you take the shortcuts) Tawali Resort sional photographers and biologists who charter it for four ‘as well meaning as he was unfortunate and
walk to the lodge. Accommodation is in two On a coral fringed headland overlooking Hoia months annually. as kindly as he was courageous’ and that ‘his
buildings: the upper is in the treetops, sleeps Bay, Tawali Resort (%641 1167 in Alotau, 641 0922 in MY Spirit of Niugini (www.spiritofniugini.com; per aim was to make New Guinea a good place
eight (four comfortably), and has a great bal- Tawali; www.tawali.com; s/d incl dive & meals US$380/590; person per day US$320-345) A well-appointed dive catama- for white men.’ Near the southeast corner
cony for bird-watchers. Down the hill is a a) is one of the best in PNG. The whole ran with large rooms and private bathrooms. Because the of the grounds, a road leads up to the aban-
traditional-style building with its own balcony resort lives and breaths diving and most guests catamaran can handle rough seas, it is possible to go as far as doned hospital and, just north of here, a small
but simpler rooms (single K80) and piping- come here on diving packages (although the outer-reef chains of the Conflicts and Engineer Groups. hill with great views of the island and China
hot, communal showers. Mosquito nets are there are cheaper options for non-divers). For more on diving see p58. Strait. Near the sportsground, and south of
116 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • N e a r S a m a r a i I s l a n d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • D ’ E n t re c a s t e a u x I s l a n d s 117
the wharf, is Samarai’s oldest-surviving build- that the last of the nearby cannibal tribes
ing, the Anglican church. was ‘saved’. KULA RING
Even if you don’t climb the hill, you simply If you follow the old tree-lined road until it Extending around the islands of Milne Bay Province is an invisible circle, or kula ring, that binds
must go snorkelling or diving around the rot- clears the forest, you’ll come to a stonewalled the islands together in a system of ritual exchange. The ring encompasses the Trobriand, Muyua
ting piers of the Samarai Island Wharf, which has church that was built in 1937 from materials (Woodlark), Louisiade, Samarai and D’Entrecasteaux islands. Things have changed now, but in the
become a world-famous muck-diving site. The brought from Scotland. The Kwato Church past, the kula ring involved the trade of red-shell necklaces, called bagi or soulava, in a clockwise
marine life is incredible and as you drift care- suffered a decline in the 1970s and stands direction and white shell armlets, mwali, in an anticlockwise direction. Each trader had a kula
fully between the piers you’ll be surrounded today as a testimony to the missionary of a partner on their nearest neighbouring island in each direction. Once a year, the trader and a
by schools of brightly coloured fish. Below bygone era. delegation from his clan journeyed to the island of his kula partner to receive gifts in elaborate
them, pipefish and various odd nudibranchs Boats to Kwato can be caught from Samarai public ceremonies. On a separate significant date he would be visited by another kula partner who
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
to ‘rescue’ anything more than the rubbish. Be ningly beautiful place about 10km southeast mwalis rarely left the circle, this system ensured a distribution of wealth among the islanders.
sure to bring a snorkel and mask. of Samarai, it’s possible for overnight stays The exchange mostly occurred between traditional families of high status and thus helped to
with Milne Bay Magic Tours (p111). reinforce clan-based hierarchies. Today some people are required to journey to the island home
Sleeping & Eating Not far west of Doini Island is Gona Bara of a traditional kula partner bearing ritual gifts in a banana boat rather than the traditional
If you don’t fancy your chances of making Bara Island, and just off the northwest shore sailing canoe.
friends with the locals, there is only one place is a dive site known as the Manta Ray Cleaning
to stay on Samarai Island. At the top of the Station. Just a few metres below the sur-
stairs leading up from the north side of the face, there is an isolated bommie (a natural smaller islands but there are numerous reefs, between Doidoi on Goodenough Island and
sports ground, Bwanasa Women’s Association spire, covered in coral, rising from the sea shoals and atolls. Cape Vogel on the mainland’s north coast.
Guesthouse (%642 1042; r per person K70; meals K12- floor). Around the bommie giant, graceful D’Entrecasteaux islanders are still largely If the seas are rough, consider your options
16) is rapidly approaching ‘run down’ but the mantas (some with wing spans of up to 5m) subsistence horticulturalists, living in small, carefully as boats have been swamped and
staff here are fantastically friendly. The rooms are cleaned by tiny wrasses; it is one of the traditional villages and fishing the coastal their passengers drowned.
are simple and the shared bathrooms have best places on earth to see this happening. waters. People of this area participated in the Airlines PNG no longer flies to these
only cold water; all of this is in keeping with Snorkelling is also possible, though high kula ring of exchange (see above) and trav- islands.
the derelict and abandoned atmosphere of the winds make it (and diving) difficult between elled widely to other islands in their sea-going
island itself. If there’s no-one around when June and September. Unfortunately only dive sailing canoes. Normanby Island
you arrive, ask in the neighbouring houses charters are visiting here although it may be The whole archipelago is off-the-beaten- Esa’ala, the district headquarters, is at the en-
and they’ll rouse someone up. possible to arrange a snorkelling trip with track travel at its best. It can be difficult to trance to the spectacular Dobu Passage. It’s a
local boat operators in Samarai Island. contact anyone on the islands because the tiny place, with a couple of stores, a market
Getting There & Away Galahi Island, just off Sariba Island, has seen phones rarely work. Try the Milne Bay Tourist and a trade store. A reef just offshore offers
The easiest way to get to the island is to a small trickle of travellers who visit the pretty Bureau (p110) instead. If you are happy with excellent snorkelling.
jump aboard one of the public dinghies at seaside village here. Galahi Village Stay offers basic island accommodation, you could spend The friendly Esa’ala Guesthouse (call the district
Sanderson’s Bay (K25, 1½ hours, daily except accommodation, meals, fishing, swimming, weeks exploring coastal villages, sleeping with office %641 1217; s incl meals K85) is on the beach
Saturday). The boats depart Alotau around snorkelling, trekking and bird-watching op- families on sleeping mats and sharing their near the main wharf, and Tom Inman B&B Esa’ala
3pm and return between 7am to 8am the portunities around the island. Contact Jeff food. To mount such an expedition, hire (%641 1209) is a pleasant place run by Tom’s
next morning. Kinch through Napatana Lodge (p112) in one of the dinghies at East Cape (K150 per son David. Ask for either place and you’ll soon
Alotau. It should be possible to stay in other day, including crew), stock it with a couple be pointed in the right direction.
NEAR SAMARAI ISLAND villages on many of the islands in the area, of drums of petrol (brought in Alotau where One of the most accessible and picturesque
China Strait and the surrounding islands have including Logea Island (Rogeia) and Sariba. it’s cheaper), some 1kg bags of rice and tinned bays in the region is Sewa Bay, a 45-minute
a reputation for witchcraft and, despite the fish and follow the whales, dolphins or dug- boat ride (K25) from East Cape. During
influence of missionaries, superstitions lin- D’ENTRECASTEAUX ISLANDS ongs which live here. WWII the Allies based warships here among
ger. Strange lights, ghost ships and sirens (the Scattered across a narrow strait from the seven tiny islands in the harbour. The beauti-
singing kind) all crop up. PNG mainland, the D’Entrecasteaux group Getting There & Away ful Goldie’s bird of paradise is endemic to the
Just 3km west of Samarai, Kwato Island was was named by French explorer Antoine Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships, p107) has a island and can be seen at the Buyeti display
once an educational centre and home to a d’Entrecasteaux, who sailed through in 1793 weekly service to all three principal islands site (a three-hour walk from Sibanai), but
thriving boat-building industry. The rem- while searching for his missing compatriot, which includes port of calls at Salamo on you’ll need a guide to show you where it’s
nants of the old machinery lie where they La Pérouse. The three principal islands, from Fergusson and Esa’ala on Normanby. Easier located. Snorkelling around the tiny islands
were discarded in the tall grass and today the northwest to southeast, are Goodenough to organise are the dinghies that run early of Emanalo, Autoyou and Touwe is particu-
island can be eerily quiet. (Nidula), Fergusson (Moratau), and Normanby afternoons from East Cape across to Sewa larly rewarding because of the extremely high
The Reverend Charles Abel and his wife, (Duau). The islands are extremely mountain- Bay, Normanby Island. Let the captain know biodiversity found in these waters. There is a
Beatrice, founded a non-hierarchical church ous, covered by dense jungle and contain a about your intended destination as these pub- guesthouse at Bunama village that provides
in 1891. Even though they ‘belted’ the number of active geothermal fields. Sanaroa lic boats travel to many destinations other dinghies and canoe trips to the reefs that sur-
Bible pretty hard, it wasn’t until the 1930s and Dobu are the most significant of the than Saidowai. It is also possible to travel round the village.
118 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s 119
In Saidowai village, in the northern corner of the island there is a large stone, covered in you’ve come. It’s enough to ask almost anyone but if it does, it will probably be as reliable
of the bay, local activist Mombi Onesimo mysterious black-and-white paintings, which to pass on the message to the chief; it will as the temperamental telephone network.
is encouraging tourism as an alternative to is said to have power over the yam crops. The reach him.
Malaysian rosewood logging. His Saidowai Bolubolu Guesthouse charges K90 per person INFORMATION
Guesthouse (contact Napatana Lodge %641 0588; dm/s/d with meals. Festivals The Konki Enterprises (%643 9000) and Digogwa
K30/80/100) is an excellent place to base yourself Mention to any mainlander that you are off to Trading (%643 9001) stores in Losuia are your
as Mombi arranges guides to local attractions, TROBRIAND ISLANDS see the Milamala Festival and you’ll be greeted best sources of information. Ask at these
snorkelling trips, canoe-fishing expeditions In 1914 a young anthropologist called with raised eyebrows, queasy smirks and any places about any cricket matches, weddings,
and treks to see Goldie’s bird of paradise and Bronsilaw Malinowski set sail for the impos- number of puns along the lines of exactly mortuary feasts or any other festivities that
the Bwasiaiai hot springs. The guesthouse is sibly remote Trobriand archipelago. When whose yams are ripe for harvesting. Ever since it may be possible to visit. Rebecca Young
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
meals are provided (K5 to K30). Austrian Pole in a British controlled area, Melanesia (1929), the West has been fasci- with her village contacts. There are no banks
It’s possible to walk to Esa’ala from unable to leave. The story goes that not being nated with (some say, fantasising about) the here, but both stores change Australian and
Saidowai overnighting in a series of guest- sure which side he was on (or even wanted to thought of free love with sex-starved, bare- US dollars at poor rates. Konki has connec-
houses along the way. Ask Mombi for details, be on), he spent the next three years immersed breasted maidens in a tropical paradise. tions to Butia Lodge and Digogwa is owned by
but there are guesthouses at Sibanai, Welala, in his fieldwork. On his eventual return, that However on the island it’s more about the the same family who run Kiriwina Lodge.
Bwakera, Poponawai and Ulowai Beach. All fieldwork bore fruit as one of the most famous yams and the celebration of a bountiful crop.
of these guesthouses are within a day’s walk and influential books in anthropology, The Yams are harvested and stored between June
from one another and provide meals, however Argonauts of the Western Pacific. and August. The crop yield (along with the KIRIWINA ISLAND
0 10 km
you will need to bring bedding, a mosquito Despite the dozens of anthropologists, mis- chief’s whim and, increasingly, monetary 0 6 miles
net and torch. sionaries, TV crews and tourists who have since incentives from the government) dictate
followed Malinowski, the Trobriands remain whether or not there will even be a Milamala. SOLOMON SEA
Fergusson Island one of the most culturally intact places you For exact dates see www.milnebaytourism.gov Kaibola
Labai
Fergusson is the largest island in the group could possibly find. Although an understand- .pg, but treat even this information as un- Tawema Kalopa Cave
Matawa
and the highest peak is 2073m, with two other ing of reproduction and modern medicines reliable. In 2007, despite widely published Kudawaga
Kuluvitu Liluta
lower ranges from which the island’s many is common, islanders still maintain a world programmes, no festival was held. Kwailbwaga
Omarakana Temple
rivers and streams flow. It is notable for its view that includes the belief that in order for a When it is held, the Milamala may cul- Kaileuna I Yalaka Obweria
Bweka
Ruins
Losuia Airport
hot springs, bubbling mud pools, spouting woman to become pregnant, she must first be minate in a week or two of canoe racing, Butia
Village
Resort
Boitalu
geysers and extinct volcanoes. infused with the spirit of a departed ancestor. cricket matches, ribald dancing and, yes, free Kaisiga
Lodge Ialungwa
Moligilagi
The hike from Warluma to the caldera A strict matrilineal social system, enormous love. Before you get too excited, it’s worth Losuia Mulau Bay
of Mt Lamanai takes about 1½ hours and af- and highly decorated yam houses, exquisite noting that visitors with boiling loins usu- Kiriwina
Okaiboma
fords fantastic views over an immense crater. carvings and the colourful festivals of clan ally have to make their own entertainment Lodge Tukwaukwai
Take a local guide (ask around to arrange for prestige will keep your head turning because, while yams are considered objects
Baimapu I
one). Particularly active thermal springs can Known locally as the Trobes, the people of great beauty, dim dims (white people) Wagwama
Bay
be found at Deidei, opposite the main town take their name from Denis de Trobriand, are not. Wawela
of Salamo. an officer on D’Entrecasteaux’s expedition.
The Salamo United Church Women’s Guesthouse The Trobriands are low-lying coral islands, Kiriwina Island
Kiriwina I
(contact Wesley High School %641 1715; s incl meals K90) in contrast to their mountainous south- The largest of the Trobriand Islands is
has been renovated recently. If staff don’t ern neighbours. Trobriand Islanders have Kiriwina, which is home to the district capi-
Sinaketa
know you’re coming, bring some supplies. a distinct Polynesian appearance and there tal of Losuia and the airstrip. Kiriwina is rela-
Bwadela
Boats cross the beautiful Dobu Passage are scattered remains of stone temples that tively flat, although there is a rim of low hills
between Esa’ala and Salamo daily and resemble those of Polynesia. Trade between (uplifted coral reefs) along the eastern shore. Yaga I
cost K5. the islands had strong cultural and economic The central plain is intensely cultivated and,
importance, and the pre-European traders with the island’s population growing fast, SOLOMON SEA
Goodenough Island crossed vast distances of open sea in canoes, there are concerns that cutting trees to plant Nanauli I
The most northwesterly of the group, exchanging fish, vegetables, pigs, stone axes, gardens will devastate the island.
Goodenough is one of the most steeply sided a rare jadelike stone from Muyua (Woodlark) The airport is in the north, where the Gilibwa ge
as sa
islands on earth, with Mt Oiautukekea reach- Island and volcanic glass from Fergusson US Air Force had two bases during WWII. m
ak
aP
ing 2566m at the summit. There are fertile Island. The kula ring (p117) is the most fa- South of here, on the west coast, Losuia is i la
s
Ka
coastal plains flanking the mountain range mous of these trade routes. the only real town and is generally known
Vakuta I
and a road runs around the northeast coast It’s good manners to let the paramount as ‘the station’. It has a wharf, police sta-
through Vivigani, site of the major airstrip in chief know you have arrived. If you are there tion, health centre and two trade stores. It’s Vakuta
the group. Bolubolu is the main settlement, for reasons other than tourism, you should more like a sprawling village than a town.
about 10km south of Vivigani. In the centre request an audience with him to explain why Electricity is rumoured to be coming soon
120 M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M I L N E B AY P R O V I N C E • • T r o b r i a n d I s l a n d s 121
YAMS, SEX & CRICKET looks and short grass skirts, but it led to the inaccurate idea that the Trobriands were some sort
Bronislaw Malinowski’s celebrated books, The Argonauts of the Western Pacific, Coral Gardens and of sexual paradise. The sexual customs are different to many other places, but are not without
Their Magic and The Sexual Life of Savages in North-Western Melanesia, were published after WWI, their own complicated social strictures.
and revealed much about the intricate trading rituals (p117), yam cults and sexual practices of Teenagers are encouraged to have as many sexual partners as they choose until marriage,
the Trobriand Islands. Malinowski found a matrilineal society, in which the chief’s sons belong when they settle down with the partner who is chosen as suitable and compatible. Males leave
to his wife’s clan and he is succeeded by one of his oldest sister’s sons. The society is strictly home when they reach puberty and move into the village bukumatula (bachelor house). Here,
hierarchical, with distinctions between hereditary classes and demarcations in the kind of work they are free to bring their partners back at any time, although they usually opt for somewhere
each person can perform. more private. Even married couples, subject to mutual agreement, are allowed to have a fling
or two when the celebrations for the yam harvest are in full swing.
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
and a tie between villages and clans. The quality and size of your yams is important. Many hours a child’s spirit, which floats through the air or on top of the sea, chooses to enter a woman,
are spent discussing yam cultivation, and to be known as a tokwaibagula (good gardener) is a often through her head.
mark of great prestige. All this apparent freedom has negligible impact on visitors. Freedom of choice is the bedrock
The yam cult climaxes at the harvest time, which is usually July or August. The yams are first of Trobriand Islands life, so why would any islander choose some unattractive, pale dim dims
dug up in the gardens then displayed, studied and admired. At the appropriate time, the men who can’t speak like a civilised human, doesn’t understand the most fundamental laws and will
carry the yams back to the village, with the women guarding the procession. probably be gone tomorrow?
In the villages, the yams are again displayed before being packed into the highly decorated
yam houses. Each man has a yam house for each of his wives and it is his brother-in-law’s Cricket
responsibility (in other words, his wife’s clan’s obligation) to fill his yam house. The chief’s yam Trobriands Islands cricket developed after missionaries introduced cricket as a way of taking
house is always the biggest, most elaborate and first to be filled. the islanders’ minds off less-healthy activities. It’s since developed its own style, which is quite
unlike anything the Melbourne Cricket Club ever had in mind. There is no limit to the number
Sex of players, meaning you can wait days for a bat. Trobriand cricket is played with much dancing,
Malinowski’s tomes on the Trobriand Islanders’ customs led to Kiriwina Island being given the singing and whistle blowing, making it rather difficult to concentrate on line and length. When
misleading title of the ‘Island of Love’. It is not surprising that such a label was applied by inhib- asked what the song meant it was translated to us as ‘I don’t know why we are dancing, the fool
ited Europeans when they first met Trobriand women, with their free-and-easy manners, good is already out!’ If there’s a game scheduled while you’re there, don’t miss it!
abandoned WWII-era airstrip, Butia Lodge own timber, as this role belongs to another, basis (K200) – talk to the trade store about this economy is feeling the pinch with the de-
is the cleanest and most comfortable accom- and must purchase it from the landowner possibility. Almost all private vehicles (there commissioning of a major gold and silver
modation on the island. The staff are friendly where it is grown. aren’t many) operate as de facto PMVs. mine in 2004.
although their apathy can be frustrating if Obweria village specialises in intricately Most of Kiriwina’s main roads are in fairly Local sights include a clifftop skull cave,
they are unable to organise the tours that carved walking sticks and bowls. A good walk- good condition and, if Butia Lodge (p121) which is a 20-minute drive from Bwagoia, and
they promise. Guests sometimes complain ing stick might cost K200 to K300 or more. have got their bikes sorted, cycling is a great bushwalks to the waterfall near Bwagabwaga.
that they end up stranded far from town Bwetalu village produces particularly fine stools way to see the island. Contact Joyce Fifita at Misima Island Resort
while staying here. The lodge has its own van although these can be quite bulky and difficult (below), who can arrange visits to a local
but at the time of research this was waiting to transport. LOUISADE ARCHIPELAGO school and boys to show you around Bagilina
on parts. The restaurant and bar (meals K20, Yalaka village sells striking lime pots that This archipelago received its name after Louis village. The snorkelling near the offshore is-
& MILNE BAY PROVINCES
CENTRAL, ORO
by 18 posts, each carved with a Trobriand that runs around the girth of the gourd and earlier. Rossel (Yela) Island is the most west- In Alotau, Gretta at Napatana Lodge (p112)
legend. The food is superb, mixing traditional are fitted with a boar’s tusk stopper. Most erly inhabited island. The Calvados chain and is a good source of information about these is-
vegetables (yes, yams), fish and masses of pots are around K10, depending on size and Conflict group are a long chain of islets and reefs lands and some of her staff (including Mickee)
mouth-watering mud crabs. quality, and a must for the discerning betel between Sudest and the mainland and make have contacts there.
nut chewer. navigation through the province an exacting Misima Island Resort (contact Joyce Fifita%643 7052)
Village Stays Other than carvings and lime pots, you and often dangerous operation. is a 15-minute walk from town and has clean,
Most visitors opt to stay at least one night in can get shell money and doba (banana leaf bungalow-style accommodation. In Bwagoia
a village and find it a fantastic experience. money incised with patterns); still used by Misima Island try Misima Guesthouse (contact Elivda Killia%643 7443;
Certainly you must be prepared to pay for some women as negotiable currency. Mountainous Misima Island is the most im- s K90), which has tidy, fan-cooled rooms and
what you use (hardly a shocking concept for Artisans meet arriving planes hoping to sell portant in the group, with the district head- home-cooked meals (K10 to K12), or Jeb’s
good, capitalist tourists), but be sure to estab- their wares and sometimes beautiful bowls quarters at Bwagoia. Not many travellers Guesthouse (contact Ellice Brome%643 7059).
lish what you’re (not) paying for in advance can be found here. Butia Lodge has a small make it to Misima although those who do Airlines PNG flies to and from Port
with the village chief. range of high-quality carvings, and they’re report of unfailingly friendly people and Moresby (three hours) via Gurney (K410, 40
Butia Lodge (p121) arranges village stays all priced fairly. several accommodation options. The local minutes) on Monday and Fridays.
at Kaibola and Mweuya for about K60 per
night, including basic food, and will transport GETTING THERE & AWAY
you to and from the village. The transport Airlines PNG flies between both Losuia
and having an English-language speaker is and Gurney (from Alotau, K431) and Port
an advantage here. Moresby (K657) on Mondays and Fridays.
You could arrange it yourself by speaking These flights are often late or cancelled.
with the chief of the village that you’d like to Weather permitting, Star Ships sails the
stay in. Friendly Emanuel Tosieru runs three Samarai Queen from Alotau to Losuia (K105,
traditional-style rooms (s incl meals K60) on stilts at 19 hours) and back every weekend. The boat
Kaibola Beach. Contact K Nimrod Tutumla departs Alotau 9am on Friday and arrives
at Okaiboma to spend the night in one of the at Losuia midday on Saturday. It returns to
basic beach huts (s incl meals K80) there. Almost any Alotau on Sunday morning.
other village will take you – just ask. The two main trade stores in Losuia run
For more on staying in villages, see work boats to Alotau every fortnight or so.
p284. They charge about K60 for the trip, which takes
two days (stopping in the D’Entrecasteaux
SHOPPING Islands for the night) and you’ll need to
Trobriand Islands carvings are famous bring your own food and water. Ask at Konki
throughout PNG. Certain villages specialise in Enterprises (%643 9000) or at Digogwa Trading
certain styles, ranging from bowls and stools (%643 9001), which are also the agents for
to elaborately carved walking sticks. The best Airlines PNG.
carvings are made from ebony, and much of
what you see will be decorated with pearl-shell GETTING AROUND
inlays. Ebony is an extremely hard and brittle Although the island’s few PMVs meet all ar- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
timber, and difficult to work. riving flights, they are otherwise infrequent. restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
A master carver is a position of high pres- Getting out to the various villages can be a
tige in the Trobriands and, like dancers, sing- considerable problem if your accommodation only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
ers and many other roles, is a role bestowed is unable to arrange transport. Groups may everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
upon people at birth. A carver cannot fell his be advantaged by hiring a vehicle on a daily the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
124 lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E & MA D A N G P R O V I N C E S • • H i s t o r y 125
Morobe & Madang Ancient axe heads that have been found sug-
gest people have been living in this part of
PNG for about 40,000 years. Simbai settle-
prompted a decision to move the capital of
New Guinea to Lae, but WWII intervened
and instead Lae, Salamaua and Rabaul be-
PROVINCES
to Bogadjim on Astrolabe Bay, and then
on to Madang, before finally conceding de- Ridge, scene of some of the most desperate
Madang, situated on a small peninsula jutting into a halcyonic harbour, is Lae’s younger, fighting of the campaign. Lae, Wau, Bulolo
feat to the mosquitoes and decamping for
prettier sister. Despite being heavily bombed in WWII, Madang has returned to her sunny, the relative comforts of New Britain. The and Salamaua were badly damaged during the
carefree self. Once here, you’ll be shifting down the mental gears in no time. For the adventurer Lutheran Mission arrived during this time war and Salamaua was never rebuilt. Madang
there is plenty of scope to grab a snorkel, slap on some sunscreen and banana-boat hop your and Finschhafen remains a Lutheran base. was demolished and completely rebuilt.
The legendary prospector ‘Sharkeye’ Park Postwar, Lae became a major transport hub
way along the coast. Madang’s northern coast, the Finschhafen area and the foreshore south for goods shipped to and from the Highlands.
is credited with discovering gold near Wau in
of Lae all offer opportunities to stay in locally run guesthouses and soak up some rays. 1921. By the mid-1920s the gold hunters were The road between Wau and Lae had been built
flooding in, arriving at Salamaua and strug- during the war and work on the Highlands
gling for eight days up the steep and slippery Hwy was made a priority so it could service
HIGHLIGHTS Black Cat Track (p137) to Wau, a mere 50km the fast-growing coffee and tea industries. The
away. Malaria, the track itself and unhappy Highlands mineral boom of the 1980s and
Soaking up the creature comforts under the ’90s, with its need for massive heavy-cargo
bat-packed trees of Madang (p140), the
tribesmen claimed many lives.
In 1926 a richer field was discovered at Edie shipments, resulted in Lae becoming the main
‘prettiest town in the Pacific’ port and industrial centre of PNG.
Creek, high in the hills above Wau. To squeeze
Watching leatherback turtles scramble ashore Madang the most out of these gold-rich streams the
Simbai
at Labu Tali Conservation Area (p135) under miners turned to aircraft (p312) and within a GEOGRAPHY & CLIMATE
a full moon few years more air freight was being lifted in The Huon Peninsula is the hump in the
Being one of the first to witness the beetle- PNG than the rest of the world put together. New Guinea ‘dragon’s back’, an area of steep
bejewelled singsings of the isolated Simbai The goldfields continued to be productive ranges leading down to northern coastal
(p149) villagers high in Bismarck Range until after WWII. Today, local people still grasslands and swamps. The Finisterre,
Suiting up to dive the wrecks and carnage of Lae work the fields but it’s nothing more than a Sarawaget and Rawlinson Ranges form a rib
WWII or snorkelling over the psychedelic reefs Labu Tali cottage industry. along the Huon Peninsula, with the lower
north of Madang (p142)
Conservation Area Lae was a tiny mission station before the slopes blanketed in one of the most tan-
gold rush but soon became a thriving commu- gled and impenetrable rainforests in PNG.
Calling into Lae to pay your respects at the War nity clustered, in true PNG fashion, around Further north, Madang Province rises from
Cemetery (p129) and to check out the critters at its central airstrip. It was from here that, in the coast into the Schrader and Bismarck
the Rainforest Habitat (p129) 1937, pioneer aviator Amelia Earhart took off Range and the highest peaks in the country;
on one of the final legs of a round-the-world Mt Wilhelm (4509m) stands near the border
POPULATION: 905,000 AREA: 62,470 SQ KM flight and disappeared without trace. with Simbu Province.
126 M O R O B E & MA D A N G P R O V I N C E S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E 127
Ramu River
Hansa Manam I off the coast of Madang Province, three of
Bay
Base camp
Laing I which are active volcanoes. Morobe also has
Bogia a number of volcanic islands between the
EAST SEPIK Huon Peninsula and New Britain.
PROVINCE
The climate in this part of PNG can be
confusing. The Lae–Finschhafen area’s
No
Ad
rth
G el
be Magiya Karkar I
BISMARCK SEA rainy period is from May to October and
Co
Ke ua er
ram Riv rt
as
v Salemben it has only a slight seasonal variation in
t
Hw
R
Ri
y
an
ve
Bagabag I
r
ge
Aronis Bargam
day for weeks in Lae, just a couple of
S
ch MADANG hours down the coast by boat it is sunny
ra
de
PROVINCE most days. Madang is dry between June
r R Alexishafen
an
ge Aiome
Ra
m
u
Utu Mission
Gog
See Around Ma
Map (p146) dang and September.
Ri ol R Long I
ve iver
r Madang
Bau
ENGA
CULTURE
D
B Yabob Lake Sakar I
am
PROVINCE Simbai Wisdom
i Tolokiwa I Even today, the Anga people from the
pi
Astrolabe er
s Bay Cape Rigny St
Baiyer River Mt Herbert m ra
it
highland areas of Morobe Province are re-
(4267m) a Bogadjim
nowned throughout PNG as fierce warriors.
MOROBE & MADANG
Usino
Koropa
PROVINCES
HIGHLANDS
Brahmin
r r
e interspersed with violent raids on lowland
PROVINCE Bundi R Ra S
ds Mt Wilhelm a m
u
R
a
n t villages – or upon each other. Despite the
Highlan Hwy n Dumpu g r
Mt Hagen (4509m) g e e Bonga
a bitter climate in their mountain homeland,
Hw
Teptep Wasu i they wore only tiny grass skirts and cloaks
y
Gusap
made of beaten bark, known as mal.
t
Kundiawa Goroka Watarais Sialum
Kabwum
e JK McCarthy, who made some of the first
ng
MOROBE Ra contact with these people between the wars,
y
Sa r
Hw
SIMBU awa ge t
PROVINCE
Henganofi Highlands Kainantu PROVINCE Bobongara described in his book Patrol Into Yesterday
Huon Peninsula
Boana the Angas’ first sight of an aircraft, when
Ma
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
PROVINCE R Butaweng
Finschhafen Area
its genitals, apparently unsure whether it was
Rive Gagidu Station
r
a
Nadzab Malasiga male or female.
n
r Buki Wharf &
ve
g
Airport
Ri Dregerhafen
e
tut
(3686m)
MOROBE PROVINCE
Bay
Mt Murray
(2254m) Gwado
Busama & Labu Tali Huon
Morobe Province is the industrial heart of
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
Watama Salamaua
GULF PROVINCE Gulf
Menyamya Bulolo
Wau Ecology
Institute Bitoi
Mt Tambu PNG and gateway to both the Highlands
Aseki
River Salus
and Islands. A string of village guesthouses
Kaintiba
Wau Lababia
Kamiali Wildlife Management Area
along the beautiful Huon Coast are a great
Edie Creek
Black Cat
Black Cat Lasanga I opportunity to get off the beaten track and
Track
Hidden Valley Mine for those up to the challenge, the historic
Siboma
war time Black Cat, Bulldog and Skindiwai
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
Tracks will challenge the most avid
ck
Tra
Mt Lawson Bo
wu Morobe Alligator Point outdoor enthusiast.
(2722m)
W
Tekadu tu
og
Saigara
lld
Kakoro M Hercules
ia
Bulldog
Bu
tn Bau
Ri
Murua Pema
r
Maclatchie
Point Kerema
Mt Strong
(3588m) Cape
shipwrecks to downed aircrafts. Culturally,
the region boasts 171 distinctive languages
er mu
Malalaua Hunt
are
er
late October.
Riv
Ma
Kukipi
128 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 129
LAE the hill in China Town; named after the MEDICAL SERVICES Having said that, there’s no reason why you
Lae is PNG’s second-largest city and, despite Chinese community who once lived here. Chemcare (%472 6590; 4th St; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, can’t walk around most parts of town during
having a sizable industrial base, it is vastly The old airstrip lies at the foot of the to 2.30pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) One of several pharmacies. the day, though keep valuables on your person
more attractive than Port Moresby. Like other steep hill to the west and runs up beside the Masalohan Medical Services (%479 1222; 7th St; to a minimum and as inconspicuous as possible
PNG cities the streets are filled with people Botanical Gardens. It was, for many years, h8am-5pm) In the same building as the Central Court (see also p291). The quiet Botanical Gardens,
and it can be hard to imagine what all the Lae’s main airport, but today the city is served Internet Cafe. however, are not suitable for lone travellers and
crowds are doing. No one seems to be in a by Nadzab Airport, the war-time airstrip Tusa Private Hospital (%472 4688; 13th St; the settlement area east of Voco Point should
rush; happy to chat with friends and amble 40km northwest of Lae. h24hr) For emergencies. be avoided, including the beach.
around town – until about 4pm when all Most passenger boats, from banana boats The road to Nadzab Airport has been
hell breaks loose as everyone tries to catch a to passenger ships, leave from Voco Point, MONEY resealed and hold-ups have declined dra-
PMV simultaneously. southeast of the town centre. Another wharf, ANZ (%180 4444; ANZ Haus, Central Ave) ATMs with matically; it’s a lot tougher to stop a vehicle
Despite its hard-nosed reputation, don’t be off Bumbu Rd beside Lae’s main container security guards. travelling at 130km/h (drivers don’t spare
afraid to stash your valuables back in the hotel terminal, deals with banana boats heading Bank South Pacific (BSP; %472 2244; cnr Central Ave the horses) than one slowing to 10km/h to
and do some ambling about town yourself. south to Labu villages and is the Rabaul & 6th St) Credit-card advances over the counter. Charges negotiate potholes. PMVs are quite safe dur-
The locals don’t bite. Shipping terminal. 1% commission on travellers cheques and is the agent for ing the day.
On its outskirts Lae boasts the wonderful Western Union.
Rainforest Habitat, probably the best place in MAPS Westpac (%472 1066; cnr Central Ave & 6th St) Also Sights
PNG for seeing the country’s fantastic wild- Recent city maps are available in the front of charges a 1% commission to cash travellers cheques and RAINFOREST HABITAT
life without having to mount a months-long the local phone book. Otherwise, contact the has an ATM. Visiting the Rainforest Habitat (%475 7839; www
expedition to do so. Department of Surveying & Land Studies (%473 .habitat.org.pg; adult/child K10/5; h10am-4pm) is like
4951; [email protected]; Unitech). POST stepping into a microcosm of PNG’s most
Orientation DHL (%472 1256; Milford Haven Rd) Opposite the Coca exotic flora and fauna. It comprises about
Information Cola factory. 3000 sq metres of reconstructed rainforest
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
over the beautiful Huon Gulf. The city is laid Ambulance (%479 1068, 479 1111)
out around the Botanical Gardens just like Fire (%472 4333, 472 4818) plants and birds. Planting began in 1994 when
Manhattan and Central Park – OK, that may Police (%479 1068; Coronation Dr) TOURIST INFORMATION 10,000, mostly native, plants were placed into
be a slight exaggeration. Morobe Tourism Bureau (%472 7823; www.tourism the habitat. Most people come to see the bird of
Huon Rd is the main through street, run- INTERNET ACCESS morobe.org.pg; Professionals Real Estate Bldg, 5th St; paradise collection and orchid garden although
ning in from the Highlands Hwy, past the Central Court Internet Cafe (7th St; per min K0.40; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) Opposite the ANZ. One of the the real star is ‘Argo’, the huge and largely inac-
better-resourced information offices in PNG; staff here are tive saltwater crocodile. Outside is a mini zoo
Eriku PMV stop and through to the city cen- h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Tucked inside a white
tre (known as Top Town). It connects with and red building on the ground floor with reasonable helpful and have some handy local and regional contacts. with cuscus, tree kangaroos and cassowaries.
Markham Rd, another major thoroughfare, connections. It burns CDs (K10) and has telecard They should be able to advise on walking the Black Cat and There are simple accommodation facilities
which leads down past the old airport and telephones. arrange accommodation in Wau. in the nearby Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse
Voco Point. Destiny Internet Cafe (%479 3193; 4th St; per hr K25; Village Development Trust (VDT; %472 1666; vdt@ (p132). To get there, take PMV 11B or 11C
global.net.pg; Trist Ave, Eriku) These guys help manage from Top Town or Eriku and ask to be let off
Most shops can be found in either of the h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) On the ground floor
two commercial mini-centres – Top Town of the big blue building; prepare for a slow connection and a series of village guesthouses along the Huon Gulf coast at Unitech Gate 2, not the main gate.
and Eriku. There are also a few stores down gospel background music. CDs can be burnt for K5. which are a must-see if you’re heading that way.
BOTANICAL GARDENS
TRAVEL AGENCIES The Botanical Gardens (%472 4188; Milford Haven Rd;
Lae International Travel Agency (%472 1000; admission K3; h6am-7pm Sat & Sun) offer a pleasant
AMELIA EARHART [email protected]; Lae International Hotel, 4th St) stroll through a small patch of rainforest and
Amelia Earhart became many things to many people during her short life – best-selling author, Avoid the queues at Air Niugini and purchase your tickets grassland in the centre of Lae. The huge, vine-
a women’s-rights advocate, an international celebrity and even a fashion icon, but the world in comfort here for the same price. covered trees host colourful birds and but-
best remembers her as a spirited aviation pioneer and the first woman to fly solo, nonstop terflies, and the gardens have an exotic orchid
across the Atlantic. UNIVERSITIES collection. Officially, it’s closed on weekdays
Her first flight was off a ramp on the roof of her family’s toolshed in what was meant to be Unitech (%473 4999; www.unitech.ac.pg; Independ- but the guards at either the main northern gate
a homemade rollercoaster. Her last was from Lae on her second attempt to be the first woman ence Dr, Taraka) About 8km out of town and located in (near the RAAF DC-3) or the southern gate
to circumnavigate the globe in a plane. some nicely landscaped parks and gardens. The Matheson (near Lae War Cemetery) usually let you in. Try
Having successfully completely 35,000km of a journey that had taken her from America to Library is impressive, as are Duncanson Hall’s 36 Sepik-style to avoid coming here alone or phone ahead for
New Guinea via South America, Africa, India and Southeast Asia, Earhart had only to cross the carved pillars. From the city centre, take PMV 11A or 11B. a guide from the Forest Research Institute.
Pacific to successfully complete her goal. Her disappearance has spawned many theories but all
that is known for certain is that on 2 July 1937, Earhart left Lae bound for Howland Island and Dangers & Annoyances LAE WAR CEMETERY
was never seen again. Lae has a reputation for danger and it pays to be The Lae War Cemetery (Memorial Ave; h 7am-
more cautious than normal while you’re here. 4pm), just south of the Botanical Gardens, is
130 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 131
ὈὈὈ
ὈὈ
St Keen to hook a blue marlin or yellow-
Rd
Butibum Rd
A 18 B C zo D E F
Ra
bu
St
To Department of Surveying &
finned tuna? Your best bet is to contact the
m
St
un
Bu
Land Studies (6km);
ki
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Ta
Rainforest Habitat (6km);
Lae Game Fishing Club (www.laegamefishing.org.pg),
in
25
St
Kl
ary Rd Rainforest Habitat (6km); Lae Game Fishing Club..................(see 31)
ak
Hu
e
Bound
Av
on Drayton St Guesthouse; Lae Golf Course................................14 B1 based at the Lae Yacht Club (p133). Although
ist
Unitech (6km)
1 Rd 1
Tr
Do Lae War Cemetery...........................15 C3
it doesn’t officially run charters, it may put
Rd
Pa yle 13 To Independence Drive
Melanesian Arts Gallery &
re St (1km); Momahi Tours (20.5km);
Milford Haven
14 G
22
ur
r Nadzab Airport (40.5km);
Highlands Hwy
Tour Agency..............................(see 38)
Pagini Tours...................................(see 19)
you in touch with locals who do.
ὈὈὈὈὈ
ne St
24 y
INFORMATION 26
St
SLEEPING
Tours
an
ANZ........................................ 1 D4 41 St
han
Australian Consulate (Trukai Fountain Motel................................16 D3
Karen Quinn, at Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour
Buc
Huon Gulf Motel..............................17 B3
Ave ayter
Industries)...........................2 A4 ERIKU BUMNENG
Klinkii Lodge.....................................18 B1
Agency (% 472 1604; [email protected];
Ch
Bank South Pacific...................3 D3 Bu
Bank South Pacific...................4 C3 Av e tib Lae International Hotel.................... 19 D4
cus
Central Court Internet Cafe.....5 D3 Hib
is 30 Bum um Lae Travellers Inn.............................20 C3 Markham Rd), is a woman with her finger on
Cas
bu Rd
Lutheran Guesthouse.......................21 F2
Chemcare............................... 6 D4 River Morobe’s pulse. If you want to walk the Black
Rd
Destiny Internet Cafe.............. 7 D4 sia Mavra Guesthouse...........................22 B1
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Cre
2 DHL........................................8 A5 s Botanical
Gardens St
Melanesian Hotel............................ 23 D4 2 Cat or just around town, Karen can arrange
Ave il Phil's Motel......................................24 B1
su
Lae International Travel
cian
a
ag
ta someone willing to guide you and something
Bu
Kiw
a
Agency...........................(see 19) 27 W
ar
Salvation Army.................................26 B1
su
Ca
Police Station........................10 C3 Ca
ssia
ial
Ave Guesthouse..................................27 B2 Expat Fred Cook runs a one-man op-
Ca
or 12
Post Office............................ 11 D4 YWCA............................................ 28 D3 eration, Pagini Tours (%472 1071; www.pagintours
ss
em 21
ow
M St t
Rd
a
lc
ry
bu
15 t
Rd
hS 34
Huo
Food Mart.......................................29 D3 International Hotel. He specialises in small-
Bu
Westpac................................(see 3) t
M
ar 12 Kokomo Coffee Shop....................(see 19)
n R
t BUTIBUM
kh 17 hS group day trips around Lae and can, with ad-
Lae am 11t Lae Bowling Club.............................30 B2
d
Showgrounds
Rd
h St Lae Yacht Club................................ 31 D5
10t vance notice, arrange game-fishing charters.
MOROBE & MADANG
Ai 20
3 rp Vee St
St 16 St Main Market...................................32 B4 3 Momahi Tours (%475 1366; tropicalniuginiwoods
Co
k
s 9th
rk
w
Rd Ha
ro
45 t
@global.net.pg; 12 mile, Okuk Hwy), based in a guest-
PROVINCES
PROVINCES
hS
na
m
8t37
St
29
Rd
Jo
Mu th
Cen
la S 5 7 28
t 4 port, is a locally owned operation offering
Ho
rob
tral
DRINKING
Lau
St Top
rnb
Mo
6th
tours to nearby crocodile farms, and Potsie
Ro
Ave
33
bin
ill
10 3 Aviat Club....................................... 34 D3
St
ada
5th St Cr
es Sa
nd and Gabensis villages. It also runs picnic trips
Ol
Club 69........................................... 35 D5
Air
Ma 1 pip
dA
lait 9
Ave
4th St er CHINATOWN 36 D4
a S 7 Rd Planet Rock..................................... to Erap River.
irs
Cor
t
Rd
19
ps
2n 6
en
40 d 3rd St
Rd
St
Festivals & Events
Hav
11 SHOPPING
43 Lae Sports Store..............................37 D3
Diddymans
4 38
23
t
Melanesian Arts Gallery & Tour 4
32 1st S
Mil
Mo
nto
ro
St St 44 36
Agency......................................(see 38)
lishes exact festival dates on its website (www
la
Ck M
an
go
Av
Mt Lunaman TRANSPORT
(170m)
.tourismmo robe.org.pg).
Hil e Air Niugini....................................... 38 C4
s
eA
Ma 2
rw
ve Avis...............................................(see 20)
Ai
tar
am M
ark Banana boats to Finschhafen & sion adult/child K4/3) has become arguably the best-
ha Salamaua.....................................39 E5
m Rd organised cultural show in PNG. It’s usually
St
35
Rd Bitibum Budget.............................................40 B4
42 on the full-moon weekend in late October (18
Vo
8 Eriku PMV Stop................................41 B1
Bum 31
co
Harbor Star Shipping.....................(see 43)
bu R
ui to 19 October 2008, 31 October to 1 November
Po
d
cdh Hertz.............................................(see 43)
Ma St
int 2009). There are no tourist prices here, though
Long Distance PMV Stop...............(see 32)
39 Rd
Lutheran Shipping............................42 E5
5
46
VOCO MAF............................................... 43 D4 5 photographers can gain access to the perform-
POINT North Coast Aviation.......................44 C4
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships).............45 B3
ance field (and the shaded members’ stands)
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) by purchasing a ‘gold’ pass for K40. Saturday
Huon Gulf Boats to
Boats to
Departures..................................46 A5
Top Town PMV Stop.......................47 C3
is devoted to agricultural displays and the
Finschhafen
Salamaua area singsing (celebratory festival/dance) is held
on the Sunday.
meticulously maintained by the Australian distant and unreal, pay a visit and read some by the Germans and Japanese as a lookout The National Theatre Festival is held in con-
Government. There are 2808 graves here, of the headstones; the tributes can be quite point. The Japanese riddled it with caves and junction with the Morobe show and is another
2363 of which are Australian and most of moving. There are security guards and it’s tunnels, though none of these are open today. opportunity to take way too many photos of
the rest are Indian, New Zealand and British. quite safe to visit. Don’t go here alone. people in traditional garb. Arts and crafts are
An Anzac (Australian New Zealand Army also on sale here.
Corp) Day dawn service is held here every MT LUNAMAN Activities The Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival (admission
year commemorating those who lost their To the southeast of town Mt Lunaman or, more If golf is your game, the Lae Golf Course (%472 adult/child K3/2) is held biannually (on even num-
lives during WWII. If the war seems rather correctly, Lo’ Wamung (First Hill), was used 1353; Bumbu Rd) is one of the best in PNG and has bered years) and celebrates the diversity of
132 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e 133
traditions and cultures of the nine districts Pilgrim Village Guesthouse (%/fax 472 8076; are slightly discounted from the rates above coconut and chicken comes heaped with a lot
of Morobe Province. Drayton St; s/d/tr incl breakfast K80/150/180) Set around on weekends. of local conversation.
The Unitech Show (admission K4) is also a bi- a courtyard, this place is good value, especially Lae International Hotel (%472 2000; www.laehotel Lae Bowling Club (%472 0823; Hibiscus Ave, Eriku;
annual event and is held at the university the huge and comfortable four-bedroom suite .com.pg; 4th St; d K325-357, ste K460-693; ais) Self- meals K10; h8am-9pm) Filipina Nana serves a few
grounds. The traditional singsing participants with its old-fashioned and well-worn décor. described as ‘an oasis of luxury’ and indeed cheap, tasty dishes in informal surrounds.
are principally students from around the Rainforest Habitat Guesthouse (%/fax 475 7839; the International has the lot – spacious rooms,
country. It’s next scheduled for 2008 although Unitech; s/tw K85/121) Bunk beds, shared bathrooms tennis courts, a pool, travel agency (p129), a SELF-CATERING
check for exact dates first. and kitchen will appeal to those wanting to be business centre, tropical gardens, three res- You will think you have died and gone to su-
near to nature, and far from everything else. taurants (below), a sports bar and a couple of permarket heaven at Food Mart (%479 3288; 7th St;
Sleeping Ring first. tree kangaroos thrown in for good measure. h7am-7.30pm), especially if you have just come
Most sleeping options are in Top Town or Klinkii Lodge (%472 6040; Klinkii St, Eriku; tw/tr What more could you want? in from the bush. Otherwise the main market
Eriku, and the majority can provide din- K90/110) Everything about Klinkii is pretty (Air Corps Rd; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) is a lot
ner, meaning you don’t have to venture out basic, but it’s cheap and cheery. Rooms have Eating more fun and the vegetables a lot fresher.
after dark. Some midrange options also have shared bathroom, except two that also have The best restaurants are in the top hotels. The
budget rooms. air-con (K110). Local-style meals cost K15. inverse is also true. Drinking
Lae has a small but vibrant nightlife. Lone
BUDGET MIDRANGE RESTAURANTS women should find a friend before heading
YWCA (%472 4191; 7th St; dm K35) The cheapest place Lae Travellers Inn (%479 0411; laetravellersinn@glo Lae Yacht Club (%472 4091; Butibum Rd; meals K20- to a nightclub and generally travellers need
around in a town where you get what you pay bal.net.pg; Vee St; backpackers s/tw K66/94, d/tw K165/176; 32;h8am-midnight) The airy, informal ‘Yachty’ to exercise judgement before embarking on
for. It’s noisy and run down and thankfully no a) Clean, quiet, professional and centrally is in a prime position on the harbour and a blinder in a public forum.
longer takes many foreigners as most of the located, this is the pick of Lae’s midrange op- is good for both drinking and eating. Its Aero Bar (%472 2000; Lae International Hotel, 4th St;
rooms are full with long-term residents. Try tions. Standard rooms have satellite TV and Tuesday- and Friday-night barbecues are h6pm-10pm Mon-Sat) A quiet bar overlooking the
asking for a transit room. kettle, while the backpacker rooms have fan excellent value (your choice of steak plus foyer of the hotel and kitted out with WWII
MOROBE & MADANG
online.net.pg; Busu Rd, Ampo; dm incl breakfast K65) Set in Coffee Shop (meals K17 to K30, open 6am
PROVINCES
lush, tropical grounds on the outskirts of town, to 9.30pm) serves tasty, no-fuss mains and from the dwindling expat community. It’s a casual Sportsman Bar (open 9am till late) has
this homely, colonial-style guesthouse is 200m simple breakfasts (K10). great place to meet people even if at times a large-screen TV and slightly cheaper beer.
off the main road. It’s a great budget option, Salvation Army (%472 2487; Huon Rd, Eriku; tw/tr the conversation can seem rather divorced Aviat Club (%472 3565; Huon Rd; h11am-2am Mon-
and while rooms are shared you can often end K110/145; a) Set in sprawling grounds near from PNG realities. Fri, 6pm-10pm Sat, 11am-2pm Sun) Serves the cheap-
up with a room to yourself. The gates close the shops and PMVs at Eriku. The self- Luluai’s Italian Restaurant (%472 2000; Lae est beer and reasonable Chinese; it’s a very
from 11pm to 5am and a hearty home-cooked contained, motel-style units have kitchenettes International Hotel, 4th St; meals K20-60; h6am-11pm) local scene with snooker tables, pokies and
dinner (K20) is served at 6pm. It’s too far to and are clean, if a little aged. The staff are Possibly the best pizzas in PNG. Can’t say the a band most Wednesdays. The main bar is
walk; take the 13A PMV to Butibum in Ampo very friendly. same for the pasta. The menu is also shared members-only but the nightclub is not and
(pronounced ‘umpo’) for K0.50. Huon Gulf Motel (%472 4844; www.coralseahotels with the Kokomo Coffee Shop next door, considerably rougher.
Fountain Motel (%472 2268; Hawk St; budget s/d .com.pg; Markham Rd; d K152-264; as) Not the jewel which makes the cakes they both serve. Club 69 (%472 1866; 2nd fl, Stadium, Markham Rd;
K66/88, self-contained s/d K110/132; a) Close to town in the Coral Sea Hotels’ crown. Rooms in the Salamaua Restaurant (%472 3744; Melanesian Hotel, h8pm-4am Wed-Sat) This is currently the club
and with tight security, the rooms are largely newer wing are better (and more expensive). 2nd St; meals K40-60; h6-10pm) Wednesday’s curry of choice with locals and expats alike. Security
airless boxes although the upstairs rooms have The ‘wantok’s pizza’ – the super supreme of night (K45) is the only place in town to get is top notch, which means you should be able
larger windows. The self-contained rooms Papuan pizza – is the in-house speciality of Indian food. to shake your booty to an eclectic mix of local
have air-con, the budget rooms, a fan. the restaurant here. o Vanda Restaurant (% 472 2000; Lae reggae, R&B, hip-hop and pop on the packed
Mavra Guesthouse (%472 5912; fax 472 8994; Parer Phil’s Motel (%472 4781; [email protected]; International Hotel, 4th St; meals K50-75; h6.30-10pm dance floor in safety. There’s no street sign;
St, Eriku; d K77-110, tw K165; a) The rooms are fairly Huon Rd, Eriku; r K176-242) Formerly a nightclub; Mon-Sat) A classy seafood buffet (K45) is watch for the queue outside the stadium.
small and very average. The manger, however, there’s still a bar with pokies in the members served on Friday evenings and an equally Planet Rock (Markham Rd; h7pm-3am) A big
has contacts in the Siassi Islands and is plan- bar upstairs. There isn’t a significant differ- scrumptious brunch buffet (10am to 2pm) nightclub opposite the old airfield where the
ning a guesthouse there. ence between the cheaper standard rooms on Sunday. Otherwise the mix of well- music is deafening and security both inside
Summer Institute of Linguistics Guesthouse and the overpriced deluxe rooms; both prepared international dishes includes and out is necessarily tight. There’s no extra
(SIL; %472 2939; [email protected]; Poinciana sleep up to three. The basement restaurant crocodile satay, Mt Wilhelm trout and charge for fighting.
Ave, Eriku; s K80-100, d K100-120, air-con K25, extra person is rather gloomy and deserted by locals and white-chocolate cheesecake.
K20; as) This is a great option for families staff alike. Shopping
and groups with self-contained rooms that QUICK EATS Located beside the old airstrip, the Melanesian
have several beds and a clean bathroom and TOP END Stargate Food Bar (%472 0101; 7th St; meals K7-12; Arts Gallery & Tour Agency (%472 1604; www.melanesian
kitchen. Budget rooms are similarly clean Melanesian Hotel (%472 3744; www.coralseahotels.com h11am-7pm) One of the more popular kai bars arts.com.pg; Markham Rd) is crammed from floor
and share a communal lounge, kitchen and .pg; 2nd St; d K253-363, ste K462; ais) The ‘Mello’ (cheap takeaway food bar) around town with a to rafter with an excellent array of artefacts.
bathroom. The staff are a great source of has three grades of rooms, all the same size few tables and chairs. A greasy plate of kaukau Beside the obligatory penis gourds you can
information. Recommended. but with varying degrees of comfort. Rooms (sweet potato), aibika (greens) creamed with pick up items from all over PNG including
134 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • L a e lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t 135
Sepik masks, Highland shields and Tami occasionally as far south as Popondetta: this TO/FROM THE AIRPORT tion by radio and give you the low-down on
Island bowls. Prices are reasonable and ship- trip takes two days, overnighting in Morobe Most visitors use one of the airport bus serv- whose boat is running where. Most of the
ping can be arranged. Station. All banana boats leave Lae from ices, which collect you from your hotel and VDT-affiliated guesthouses offer basic accom-
Footpaths in the city centre, especially out- Aigris Market (not wharf) at Voco Point. complete the journey at alarming speed – modation in a dorm or multibed room at a
side Chemcare, are a good place to look for Virtually all the Madang-bound boats call usually only 20 minutes. The Balus Bus (%472 very reasonable rate. It’s also worth visiting
baskets and especially bilums (string bags). at Finschhafen but the most reliable passen- 7350) and Bas A Nova are popular at K20 a the Morobe Tourism Bureau (p129), which has
Masks, flippers, snorkels and T-shirts can be ger service is operated by Harbor Star Shipping trip, while the security on Guard Dog Security recently researched this area and is in contact
bought in Lae Sports Store (%472 1396; 7th St). (%472 2993; IPI Bldg, 2nd St). See p139 for details. (%475 1069; K55) would make Rambo look with various guesthouses along the coast.
Lutheran Shipping (Luship; %472 2066; fax 472 5806; under equipped. Trips down the coast from Lae start at
Getting There & Away Butibum Rd, Voco Point) has three boats servicing Local PMVs (K3, 45 minutes) leave from Aigris market, Voco Point and your convey-
Lae is the best-connected city in PNG. the Morobe Coast. Some of the villages fre- the main market, but with no taxis, getting to ance is almost always a PMV banana boat.
quented by these vessels are Buki, Maneba, or from the market can be a hassle. There’s no schedule, but a general rule is
AIR Lablab, Gassam and Wasu. Luship publishes that the further the destination, the less fre-
Several airlines fly out of Lae’s Nadzab Airport, a largely fictitious schedule at the beginning CAR quently it runs. Very few boats operate on
and most have offices at the airport and in of each month. There’s no shortage of choice if you want a Sundays. Banana boats along this stretch of
town. Only Air Niugini offers discounts on A Luship boat sails to Lorengau (deck/cabin hire car: coast usually come from the village early in
return tickets (see p313). Airlink was a major class K140/250, 48 hours) once a week (often Avis Town (%472 4644; Lae Travellers Inn, Vee St) the morning, bringing people to market. They
player in these parts and left quite a gap after its on Friday), and there should be one boat a Nadzab (%475 3029) Can provide a driver at an addi- return about noon, with the same people they
closure in 2007. It may be reborn under a new week to Madang (24 hours). The Mamose tional K10 per hour plus accommodation and meals. To be brought. Nothing is guaranteed, but it’s worth
identity. Airlines flying into Lae include: Express makes a weekly run to Kimbe (deck/ driven to Goroka will cost around K1700 including tax and checking the day before for approximate de-
Air Niugini Town (%472 1892; Markham Rd) Nadzab cabin class K110/185, 24 hours). fuel. The manager, Rita, can also arrange transport on an parture times. There are rumours of a new
(%475 3055) Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %472 5699; Joey St) hourly basis (K30 per hour) for ad-hoc tours. boat, the MV Rainforest, operated by Lutheran
Airlines PNG Nadzab (%475 3147) sails to Rabaul (deck/cabin class K220/300, 40 Budget Town (%472 3230; [email protected]; Air Shipping that will service the villages along
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
Highland stations and small airstrips west of Lae. to Popondetta. (%475 3150) are of the pit variety. Bring extra food, a mos-
North Coast Aviation Town (%472 1755; norco@glo quito net and your own sleeping sheets. The
bal.com.pg; Markham Rd) Nadzab (%475 3006) Mainly PMV PMV following towns are listed in a southeasterly
services the Morobe, Gulf and West New Britain Provinces. The most reliable place to catch PMVs out PMVs around Lae cost between K0.50 and K1 direction from Lae.
of town is the long-distance PMV stop (main mar- to Unitec. The local PMV stop in Eriku is on
Air Niugini has direct flights from Lae to Port ket). PMVs for Goroka (K20, four hours) and Huon Rd. The other local PMV stop (known Labu Tali Conservation Area
Moresby (K380, 45 minutes) several times Madang (K40, four hours) leave between 8am as Top Town) is on 7th St. There are route About 50 minutes (K20) from Lae by banana
daily, and to Madang (K293, 35 minutes) and and 9am daily. There are fewer on weekends. numbers painted on urban PMVs but these boat is Labu Tali, a traditional village where
onto Wewak (K548) every Tuesday, Thursday Alternatively Highland–bound PMVs can be can be fairly vague. it is possible to overnight and explore the
and Saturday. To the islands, it flies to Manus caught opposite the Salvation Army in Eriku. Labu Tali Conservation Area. The chief drawcard
(K494, one hour, Monday) and Hoskins (for There are now PMVs travelling in convoy THE HUON GULF COAST here is the huge hawksbill and leatherback
Kimbe, K442, 55 minutes), Rabaul (K597, at night. They are intended for those wishing The clear blue waters of the Huon Gulf coast turtles (p136) who, with a lot of grunting and
two hours), Kavieng (K716, three hours) and to reach Mt Hagen (K50, 12 hours) or further are blessed with a number of white sandy groaning, lay their eggs between November
Bougainville (K889) every Tuesday, Thursday without overnighting in Goroka. Buses depart beaches and villagers so laid-back they barely and March.
and Saturday. For all other destinations you’ll Lae at 6pm, hooking up with the Madang buses get vertical. Indeed, to even describe life here Further inland, the Labu Lakes are the source
have to go to Port Moresby first. at Watarais and arriving in Mt Hagen at 6am. as merely relaxed is an understatement, akin of the Labu mud-crabs and the shells col-
Airlines PNG has daily (except Sunday) The road to Wau is not sealed but is gen- to describing Errol Flynn (who once made his lected here are used to make kambang, the
services to Port Moresby (K380, 50 min- erally good, with spectacular scenery as the way to these parts) as merely having ‘a way lime powder required in betel-nut chewing.
utes), and flights to Mt Hagen (K349) and road skirts the Bulolo River. Vehicles to Bulolo with the ladies’. An easy 20-minute walk from Busamang
Tabubil (K872) on Mondays, Wednesdays (K10, two to three hours) and Wau (K12, Being ultrarelaxed can have its drawbacks. Beach inland brings you to Gwado and the Bula
and Fridays. three to four hours) leave between about 1pm Transport is a touch on the inconsistent side Falls, set in pristine jungle with an excellent
See the relevant towns later in this chapter and 2pm from Top Town. and little things such as electricity don’t always swimming hole.
for details on MAF and North Coast Aviation If you’re heading for Madang, the PMV work. But, hey, this really is off-the-beaten-
routes. trip costs about the same as a transfer to track PNG at its best, so trash the calendar and SLEEPING & EATING
Nadzab Airport; it compares very well with hop into a boat and strike out for the series of There is a basic guesthouse at Labu Tali village
BOAT flying. villages where it is all too easy to while away a and another at Buli village – a camp run by the
As the busiest port in the country, Lae is the few days…or weeks. Huon Coast Turtle Conservation programme.
best place in PNG from which to sail off into Getting Around But before sailing into that sunset, be sure Contact the project coordinator, Mr John Ben
the sunset. Banana boats (speed boats) run There are no taxis in Lae, but Bas A Nova (%472 to speak with the Village Development Trust (%472 3011, 6814192; [email protected]), if you
northeast as far as Finschhafen (K50) and 7300) will run you around if you call. (VDT; p129), which can book accommoda- intend to sleep here.
136 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • T h e H u o n G u l f C o a s t 137
The Kamiali Training Centre & Guesthouse (VDT centre and which hosts the annual Nange
LEATHERBACK TURTLES in Lae %472 1666; per person K35, incl 3 meals K75) is a Arts Festival.
The beaches around Busama and Labu Tali villages are an important breeding site for leatherback short distance from the Lababia community From Pema you can walk back along the
turtles, incredible reptiles that can live to a great age, weigh up to 500kg and measure up to 2m and nestled within the wildlife management Waria River, cross over and finish in Bau, not
in length. From November until February they come ashore, dig deep nests and lay as many as area. It’s comfortable, serves good traditional far from the border with Oro Province. VDT
100 eggs, which hatch about two months later. It is a truly extraordinary sight. food and is a great base to explore both the (p129) in Lae can give you contacts who can
Traditionally the eggs are gathered by local villagers, but over the years demand for eggs has coastal waters and lush mountain rainfor- organise fishing expeditions, island tours and
increased to the point where the turtle is in danger of dying out. To save the turtle and improve the est. BYO snacks, water, torch, binoculars and arrange singsings. Bau is also a great place to
villagers’ basic living standards, sections of the beach have been set aside for conservation. snorkelling gear. buy Morobean Tapa (beaten bark cloth).
The beaches north of Lababia are also a favourite with the turtles. A US-backed monitoring The Waria Valley experiences a very wet
programme here links villagers by radio, and means you can be called when the turtles arrive, Waria Valley rainy season from May to September and travel
rather than just sit on an empty beach all night for nothing. It’s a big hop down the coast to Saigara, at this time is all but impossible. Occasional
one of many villages dotted along the boats head south from Lababia to Saigara or
Waria River as it winds inland. For a taste Bau (K100 to K120, four to five hours), but
At Busamang Beach, Eliot Hanso opens his SLEEPING & EATING of village life take a boat upriver to Pema, if you don’t want to wait for days, your best
home to travellers and has a one-bedroom Salamaua Guesthouse (Haus Kibung; Huon Peninsula where there’s an interesting arts-and-craft bet is to pass a message through a boatman.
guesthouse (K10) that can accommodate two. Investment Office in Lae %472 3782; dm K22) Has bun-
Bring your own food or share Mr Hanso’s galows with shared bathrooms plus a couple
family’s for an additional fee. of larger family rooms (K66). Bring your own IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF HISTORY
Bula Falls Guesthouse (VDT in Lae %472 1666; K50; food and use the well-equipped kitchen.
Two of the most historic and famous tracks in PNG still attract a few trekkers. They require
James Komblang, Gwado village) has a fireplace for Salamaua High School (Education Dept in Lae %472
experience, planning and stamina, and don’t even think about attempting them without a local
self-caterers and the beds come with mat- 3001; tw per person K20) The other option in town,
guide. Speak with the Morobe Tourism Bureau (p129) or Tim Vincent of Wau Adventures (p139)
tresses, pillows and linen. Guides to Bula which has a few simple but clean rooms.
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
Port Moresby–based Papua New Guinea Trekking Adventures (%325 1284; www.pngtrekking
and good fun.
adventures.com) has also lead several treks down the Black Cat.
Salamaua The village store sells rice, noodles and SP
The picturesque peninsula protruding from Lager (the generator even works the fridge Black Cat Track
the coast an hour south of Lae marks Salamaua. between 6pm and 10pm!). This track was used by miners in the 1920s (p125) and its difficulty lies in the ‘no-matter-what’
There is little to suggest that the tranquil vil- route straight from Salamaua to its objective – the Black Cat mine, northeast of Wau. The miners
lage you find today played such a significant Kamiali Wildlife Management Area took eight days to cover the 50km, and parts of the track were later used by Australian soldiers
part in the development of Wau and Bulolo A further 30km south of Salamaua is Lababia, during WWII.
in the gold-rush days, or a pivotal role in the a village of about 750 people in a sandy cove. These days the middle sections of the Black Cat are seldom used by anyone, and the trail itself
course of the Pacific war (see p26). You can The attraction here is the 69,000 hectare is often overgrown or obstructed by landslips and fallen trees. It will take three to five days to
walk to, or dive on, a few interesting war rel- Kamiali Wildlife Management Area. The area walk depending on which end you start (the climb is 1800m) and how fit you are. Note that this
ics. Follow the steep trail to four Japanese gun comprises forests, mangroves, sandy beaches, track shouldn’t be attempted by inexperienced walkers. A couple we met in Salamaua, one a
emplacements and what remains of the original coral reefs, waterfalls, rivers and lakes, and former member of the British SAS, rated the Black Cat an eight out of 10 for difficulty, compared
town cemetery in the peninsula’s hills. The includes the steep David Suzuki Trail through with a five for the Kokoda Track. There is a series of traverses with loose footing and long drops
trail begins in the northwest corner of the some pristine forest – the view from the top below, plus several crossings of the Bitoi River. Be sure to wear long pants and boots with an
school oval. Near the start of the path is the is well worth an early rise. At night, if the edge and heel for grip on the traverses.
now-blocked entrance to a Japanese tunnel. season is right, you can see leatherback turtles For a fuller description see accounts by Richard Stanaway (http://richard.stanaway.net/blackcat
If you want a full day’s walk, Mt Tambu has laying their eggs. .htm) and Paul Greene (www.wanemya.com).
spectacular views and a huge battlefield where There is a colourful reef mere meters from
the Australians met the Japanese as they ad- the Kamiali Guesthouse but for some serious Bulldog Track
vanced towards Wau. Local guides are available snorkelling charter a local boat to run you to the The WWII Bulldog Track, intended to link Wau with the south coast, winds its way from Edie
for about K35 a day. The Black Cat Track starts and reefs surrounding the Fly group of Islands. Creek to Bulldog, from where you had to travel by river. When completed in 1943 the track
ends at Salamaua; see opposite for details. Boats run between Lae and Lababia (K50, was actually a road capable of bearing large trucks. It has deteriorated since and been cut by
Salamaua bay has a scattering of reefs two to three hours) about three times a landslides and jungle. Depending on how much of it you want to walk, the Bulldog Track takes
and coral formations, although you will week, and from Salamaua to Lababia (K30, from three to nine days and passes through a stunning array of landscapes and villages, little
need to bring your snorkelling equipment to one hour) whenever they feel like it. Tell one changed over centuries. You’ll pass through cool moss forests, tracts of pine-covered hills and
appreciate them. of the boatmen who leaves Salamaua for Lae villages where grass skirts remain common.
Most days there are boats from Lae to to pass on a message that you want a ride The longer trip is a bona fide adventure; see the excellent description by Richard Stanaway
Salamaua (K30 one hour). From Busamang south or arrange with VDT (p129) before- (http://richard.stanaway.net/bulldog.htm). The shorter trip requires as much planning, and requires a
Beach it is a five-hour walk along the beach hand to send a boat. To walk takes at least charter flight to meet you at Kakoro. Don’t be late.
to Salamaua. two days.
138 M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • Fi n s c h h a fe n A re a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M O R O B E P R O V I N C E • • W a u & B u l o l o 139
Huon Motors Store (%474 7018; huonmot@global on from its former ‘cowboy’ town reputa-
TAMI ISLAND .net.pg; Gagidu Station; r K99) It also operates a guest- tion. These days both towns are far safer and
Tami Island is an idyllic collection of four coral atolls and every bit the South Sea cliché you could house that sleeps four, and its car is for rent friendlier than Lae down the road.
hope for – white sandy beaches, friendly locals, coconut palms and good snorkelling with none (K220 per day). Also sells a few basic tinned If you make it up here, your best bet is
of the pesky Western intrusions such as electricity, shops, food and reliable transport. goods but no vegetables. to contact Tim Vincent of the soon to be
Tami islanders are renowned carvers and you’ll most certainly be shown the famous Tami launched Wau Adventures (%474 6210; vincent
Island bowls, although it is possible to purchase these on the mainland at Malasiga, a recently Getting There & Around [email protected]; www.wauadventures.com.pg).
settled village by the Islanders. Nearly all Madang-bound boats call at Tim will be able to coordinate everything
On the island ask for Willie Silas, who runs the Tami Guesthouse (K12 per person), although it’s Finschhafen (at either Maneba or Buki wharf, from accommodation to meals, trekking
BYO everything except coconuts and firewood. Ditto for St Balmer Guesthouse. maybe even both). Banana boats usually only guides to local tours.
Enquire around Dregerhafen for boat departure times to the island – market days are best; go as far as Buki. Lutheran Shipping’s com- Donna’s Stoa (%474 6210; Wau) is where the
expect to pay K20 for passage on a banana boat or K300 return if you charter the whole thing. fortable Gejamsao had been in ‘dry-dock’ for PMVs stop in the centre of town.
Unless you charter, plan to stay the night. two months when we passed through and no
one seemed to know if schedules were to be Sights
resumed – ask around. There are several places around Wau and
If you get desperate, pay a local boatman to sandy beaches make it a great weekend escape. Harbor Star Shipping (%472 2993; Ipi Bldg, 2nd Bulolo of interest to walkers and nature lovers,
take you out to Lababia Island, then ambush Butaweng waterfalls and Langemack Bay are the St) runs MV Orion, which departs from the particularly those with a thing for insects. The
the PMV boat as it goes past. You should be pick of the mainland swimming spots. There Luship wharf at Voco Point for Buka wharf Wau Ecology Institute (WEI; %474 6431; wauecology@
able to squeeze in. Alternatively prearrange are a number of well-preserved sunken ships every Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday morn- datec.com.pg) seems to be steadily running down,
transport in Lae with VDT. and aircraft wrecks offshore crying out for a ing between 9am and 10am, returning the but its laboratory, library, museum, lecture
local dive operator. Even Gagidu’s foreshore following day. The tickets (deck/air-con/1st theatre, large insect collection and accom-
SLEEPING & EATING is pleasant, although the snorkelling around class K40/50/80) can be bought at the wharf modation (below) are still operating.
VDT (p129) in Lae can give you the current Dreggerhafen (next to Buki) is better. Better prior to departure. The trip takes six hours Perhaps the most viable of the WEI’s ac-
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
Tulip Guesthouse (all-inclusive per person K50) In Bau, Further down the coast towards Sialum are Alternatively, banana boats (K50, three to examples of PNG’s astounding variety of
and run by the Tulip Women’s Club who offer some of the world’s best examples of uplifted four hours) leave from Lae and Buki Point insects. The philosophy is that villagers earn
traditional meals and home baked bread. marine terraces. From the air it is possible to Beach when they’re full – usually in the morn- money by collecting and selling butterflies,
Unu Guesthouse (all-inclusive per person K50) Further appreciate the ancient coral reefs that have ing. They won’t run in bad weather, which is beetles and other insects that have already
south, the Unu has 20 bunk beds in two rooms. been thrust upwards to form a geological frequent between June and September. laid their eggs, thereby ensuring the pro-
The guesthouse is built at the foot of Mt Unu, staircase. The entire area, which also incor- Tough-as-nails PMVs run between Gagidu creation of their species. While earning an
the mountain fortress of the Dzia tribe. Meals porates the Bobongara archaeological site (the and Maneba over a diabolical road (1½ income, villagers also interact more closely
are included and cooked over an open fire. oldest human habitation site in the Pacific hours, K5). with their environment (and become less
outside of Australia), has been nominated as tempted to cut down trees for a fast buck).
FINSCHHAFEN AREA a World Heritage listing. WAU & BULOLO Of a similar nature is the Insect Farming &
The town of Finschhafen was the German In the 1920s and ’30s New Guinea’s gold Trading Agency (%474 5285; www.ifta.com.pg; Godwin
New Guinea Company’s first attempt at colo- Sleeping & Eating rush made the mining towns of Wau (pro- St) in Bulolo, uphill and to the left from the
nising New Guinea (see p125). Unfortunately, Huon Peninsula Lodge (%474 7073; [email protected] nounced ‘wow’) and Bulolo thriving centres of post office.
things didn’t go well; nothing remains of the .pg; Gagidu Station; tw K72-165; a) Set in a well-kept industry (see p125). Not anymore. The nicest
original settlement aside from a lone Lutheran garden on the coast, fan rooms and air-con thing about these towns today is the welcome Eating & Sleeping
Mission building. Today Finschhafen refers to rooms share a bathroom and kitchen; there’s change from the stifling heat and humidity There aren’t many options in Wau and
the district and the collective series of peaceful one self-contained room. Go fishing in the of the coast. At an altitude of about 1300m, Bulolo. The only official place to stay in Wau
coastal towns within it. The principal settle- lodge outrigger (gear is provided) and bar- the abundant pines give a refreshing slant on is the Wau Ecology Institute (WEI; %474 6431; dm
ment is Gagidu Station, 3km from Buki Wharf becue your catch in the haus win (open-air equatorial vegetation. K50, incl meals K75), a couple of hilly kilometres
and about 30km from Maneba. structure like a gazebo). The lodge is oppo- Unemployment is sky-high and local peo- west of town; call ahead for a pick-up. Its
Towards the end of WWII the area was site the municipal headquarters, about 700m ple still work small claims in the area. Gold basic twin rooms and shared bathrooms
used as a staging post for US troops and vast north of Gagidu market. traders advertise with signs saying: Salim Gol need some work. Its phone seldom works.
numbers of GIs passed through. The war’s Senior Flierl Seminary Guesthouse (%474 7038; Long Hia (Sell Your Gold Here). Only one Tim Vincent (above) can help travellers with
abrupt end left millions of dollars worth of Private Bag, Logaweng; Finschhafen, Morobe Province) old dredge remains in Wau from the glory accommodation around town.
aircraft and equipment redundant, so the Calling ahead is vital as staff need to send days, rusting in the creek bed downstream In Bulolo, Pine Lodge (%474 5220; fax 474 5284;
whole lot was bulldozed into a huge hole; ask a truck to collect you from the wharf – from town. There are seven others in the area, r K264) has passable rooms and food (meals K25
at Dregerhafen High School, about 4km south a 20-minute drive from the Seminary. mostly near Bulolo. to K35). Each room sleeps two and comes
of Gagidu Station, for directions. There are cooking facilities but bring your A gold mine discovered a few years ago at with private facilities. A cheaper option is the
Although there isn’t a lot to do in Finschhafen, own food. Locals can guide you to nearby nearby Hidden Valley is bringing some hope Bulolo Vocational Center (%474 5223; fax 474 5471),
its proximity to Lae and abundance of white Butaweng falls. to the area and helping Wau and Bulolo move but you’ll need to bring your own food.
140 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g 141
MENYAMYA & ASEKI casuarina trees that tower over the Madang
Telekom...........................................12 A3
Westpac...........................................13 A3
CWA Guesthouse.............................21
Lutheran Guesthouse.......................22
B3
D4
Market.............................................29 B3
Steamships.......................................30 A3
Menyamya, in the heart of Anga country, is streets support huge colonies of flying foxes. Madang Lodge................................ 23 C6
TRANSPORT
ὈὈ
truly remote. Those who make the signifi- The trees may have escaped WWII relatively 2 Air Niugini........................................31 A3
cant effort to get here usually come to see the unscathed but Madang itself wasn’t so lucky. Budget...........................................(see 20)
Hertz................................................32 C6
smoked bodies at Aseki or Watama, nearer to The town was rebuilt after it was virtually Lutheran Shipping............................33 A4
Menyamya. The Anga used to smoke their destroyed during the Japanese occupation and PMV Boats to Karkar Island..............34 C4
PMV Boats to Kranget & Siar Islands..35 B3
dead and leave the mummified bodies in bur- subsequent fighting. PMV Stop........................................36 A4
Rab-Trad Wharf...............................37 A3
ial caves. These days they practise Christian Madang is PNG’s most tourist-oriented city Yamilon
0 200 m
burials, though a very small number choose and provides a range of facilities with some
ὈὈ ὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ Ὀ
Dr
0 0.1 miles
the traditional death rites. excellent places to stay in all price brackets. 5 Madang
Dolima
27 35
19 Harbour
The best place to view a smoked body is ten Coast 21
MOROBE & MADANG
St
Memorial
Nu
13 31 16 Park
na S
Krangket
PROVINCES
PROVINCES
Menyamya. Ask at the Menyamya provin- Madang is built on a peninsula surrounded 9 Rd 7 Lagoon
t
gt en 30
Kasa
Serilon
cial authority, which will contact the relevant by harbours, bays and nearby islands. The
Balem
Yamauan St
Krangket
Dalman St
Biliau I
village elders. main road is Modilon Rd, which runs vaguely
Nanulon St
St
St
ὈὈὈὈὈ
Kudam
St
3 Krangket I
The Anga Development Authority (%474 0211) north–south and connects the town centre to 37 14 29
Ragetta Mission
has a guesthouse but food is not always avail- the hotels, schools and hospital in Madang’s Badaten Rd
M
Nui I Da
Yam St
od
llm
able. Alternatively, ask around and you’ll soon south. Coronation Dr follows the coast past 28 36 an Cape
ilo
Tilom St Pa Jantzen
n
Timin I ssa
find someone to spend the night with. Madang’s affluent neighbourhood, the golf 33
Rd
ge
e W harfs 24
Kaislan Av Main See Enlargement Co
course and the Coastwatchers’ Memorial to Bode Co
ast
wa
Getting There & Away the Madang Resort Hotel on the peninsu- 4
Madang
Point
34
ral
ita
tch
ers
Kalibobo
Point
ὈὈὈὈ
ὈὈὈ
St
St
North Coast Aviation (p134) drops in on la’s northern point. The airport is 7km out Airport 22 15
Yamauani
M
20
Menyamya and Aseki on request as it flies
Poinciana
of town.
od
Ave
Botanic
ilo
Coastal
Gardens
between Kerema and Lae three times a week.
nR
Park
d
A road runs from Bulolo up to Aseki then
Mei r
MAPS
St
Rd
Regin
Rd
on to Menyamya through some extremely The Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau
Airport
o
Sir Donald
lau
a
iv e Biliau
R
Cleland Park
rough and absolutely spectacular country. (p142) has a free visitors’ map, and the
Bil
r d 26
Village
al R Binnen obo
Dr
aid Kalib Cape
In Bulolo, PMVs usually leave from the
ὈὈὈὈ
B Harbour
phone book has some excellent maps in its
Bauhinia
Golf
Ave
To Alexishafen Rd Course Kusseron
Binnen
Wabu Trade Store (%474 5352). The road actually front pages. (26km)
Dr
Hibiscus Ave n
Bougai
bypasses Aseki, so if you’re going there, make 5 Pook I
na
tio
Ave
o
or
sure the driver knows to take you into the vil- Information
nvillea
C
Cr a
es Ixo
lage. In the wet, you practically need a boat.
e
EMERGENCY nd s
Av
l
ra ma Cre
Da
Coastal
Dr
Ku Av Park
No
Ala
r
Ambulance (%852 2022) e
a
ve
sb
ssi
rt
au 18
Ri
h
Ca
Fire (%852 2777/2245) Rd Pe
MADANG PROVINCE
gol
4 Na t
Avrea
Co
ba
Wa
Rd e
as
u Rd 8
lia
Bi
Hw
M
am
ok 25
Madang Province is PNG in miniature. It has 17
y
Baidal Rd
St 32
St
INTERNET ACCESS
Rd
coastal people, islanders, mountain people
n
23
ta
Divine Word University (Nabasa Rd; per hr K15) Has
Um
n
Lo
ilo
and river dwellers. The fertile coastal strip is tu Astrolabe
od
the only broadband in town, possibly the province. 6 St Bay
M
backed by some of the most rugged moun- Niugini InfoTech (%852 3899; Kasagten Rd; per hr To Yabob (2km); 6
Bilbil Villages (9km); BISMARCK
tains in PNG – the Adelbert and Schrader K15, CD burning K20) The best connections are in the Balek Wildlife Sanctuary (10km); SEA
Ohu Butterfly Habitat (15km)
Range to the north, and the Finisterre Range morning – it’s all over by lunch. Jacunda Point
11
to the south.
142 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g 143
MEDICAL SERVICES and backed by the golf course with fine views Niugini Diving Adventures (%852 2655; www.mts CWA Guesthouse (%852 2216; [email protected];
Pharmacies are well represented. across Astrolabe Bay. png.com; Madang Resort Hotel, Coastwatchers Ave) The Coastwatchers Ave; dm/s/tw/tr K55/85/110/165) It’s pretty
Family Clinic (%852 2828; Coastwatchers Rd) Has an The local Madang museum (%852 3302; www equipment here is older than that of Aquaventures. Night clean, pretty basic and pretty central – on
Australian doctor on the staff. .madangtourism.com; Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau, diving is available. the waterfront near the town centre. You can
Madang General Hospital (%852 2022; Modilon Rd) Modilon Rd; h8.30am-4.30pm, Mon-Fri) is a small borrow-a-book (K1) and there is a Saturday
At the southern end of town, with a casualty ward. but fascinating place. Look for the ceremo- Some small swimming beaches are on Coronation morning coffeeshop on site. Bathroom fa-
nial headdress from Bosmum village on the Dr, but the best ones are on the nearby cilities are shared except in the self-contained
MONEY Lower Ramu River. These are worn dur- Krangket (p145) and Siar Islands (p145). family room. Meals aren’t served but there’s a
All major hotels cash travellers cheques, often ing the ‘cleansing of the blood’, the time in For golf enthusiasts, the Madang Country communal kitchen.
at a rate that’s competitive with the banks. which blood is drawn from a boy’s tongue Club (%852 2181; Coronation Dr) is the place to oMadang Lodge (%852 3395; www.madang
There can be long queues at the banks. Major and penis as part of an initiation rite to stomp some divots. Madang Resort and lodge.com.pg; Modilon Rd; s K72-214, d K88-248; as)
credit cards are widely accepted. manhood (ouch!). Coastwatchers Hotel are both corporate mem- With something for everyone and a stone’s
ANZ (%852 2866; Coastwatchers Ave) Opposite BSP Madang must be Batman’s idea of paradise – bers of this beachside, nine-hole course and throw from some great snorkelling, this is
and has ATMs. Charges 1% commission on travellers filled with bats but with sun, sand and palm the clubhouse is a great place for a beer. one of the best places to stay in PNG. There’s
cheques. trees. You can’t miss them, they’re every- a variety of rooms for a variety of budgets.
Bank South Pacific (BSP; %852 2477; Coastwatchers where; wheeling overhead all day, constantly Tours The backpacker rooms are simple, fan-cooled
Ave) Charges a flat K50 to change travellers cheques. It has disturbed by the town noises below and local Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (opposite) affairs, while the top-end, semidetached bun-
an ATM lobby in the Beckslea Plaza on Nanulon St. boys who like to take pot shots at them with offers plenty of suggestions and practical ad- galows have a kitchenette, cable TV and air-
Westpac (%852 2213; Nuna St) No ATMs. No commis- their slingshots (apparently they taste de- vice for day tours and excursions. con. All of them are good value for money.
sion to change travellers cheques. licious). Locals told us that these Kwandi Madang Resort Hotel’s Melanesian Scattered about the manicured grounds you’ll
(Spectacled Flying Foxes) moved into town Tourist Services (opposite) runs village tours find a stunning array of orchids, a seaside pool,
POST in the mid-’70s, although no one could say (half-/full day K90/180) to the south coast stopping carver’s workshop and waterfront restaurant
Post Office (%852 2006; Nuna St) why. The most surprising thing is with so at lookout points, war memorials and Bilbil (meals K25 to K50; open 6am to 9.30am, 11am
MOROBE & MADANG
/full day K95/162) uses banana boats to visit the Smugglers Inn Resort (%852 2744; smugglers@
PROVINCES
Telikom (Nuna St) Next to the post office. It has public rusting wreckage of Japanese landing craft daltron.com.pg; Modilon Rd; s K140-340, d K159-363; as)
phones outside. Activities and takes in coral viewing through glass- Over the years the shine has been polished off
Excellent visibility, stunning tropical coral bottomed boxes at Krangket Island. Also this hotel; the rooms need updating and the
TOURIST INFORMATION and fish life and countless WWII wrecks operating out of Madang Resort is the new pool needs chlorine. It was once a great place
Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (%852 3302; make the diving and snorkelling around MTS Suwannee River, a 98-foot, luxurious live- to stay and could be again. The waterfront
www.madangtourism.com; Modilon Rd; h8.30am- Madang world famous. Local favourites in- aboard boat that is available for dive and views are spectacular from the traditional,
4.30pm) It’s hard to overstate how much impact Toshi clude Barracuda Point, Magic Passage, Planet fishing charters. haus win restaurant (meals K22 to K45; open
Kinoshita, a Japanese JICA volunteer, has made at this Rock and Eel Gardens. There’s also good breakfast, lunch and dinner). The menu
bureau. Often at his own expense, Toshi has researched the snorkelling just off Lion’s Reserve Beach and Festivals & Events includes lobster pernod (K33) and mumu
entire province, reviewing its attractions and road-testing off the rocks at Madang Lodge and Smugglers The four-day Mabarosa Festival is supposedly chicken (K31).
the accommodation options. Hopefully his legacy will Inn Resort, but watch the swell and the tides held annually in August or September al- Coastwatchers Hotel (%852 2684; www.coralseahotels
continue when he returns home. because the rocks, coral and sea urchins can though it was cancelled in 2007. It features .com.pg; Coastwatchers Ave; r K231-324; ais) As the
Melanesian Tourist Services (MTS; %852 2766; be hazardous. singsing groups from all over the country name implies, this Coral Sea Hotel enjoys ocean
www.mtspng.com; Madang Resort Hotel, Coastwatchers For more information on diving in Madang, and there’s a canoe race from Krangket views – but not from every room. It’s a modern,
Ave) Runs local tours (opposite) and books airline tickets. see p56. Island to Madang, parades and live bands. tasteful complex adjacent to the Coastwatchers’
Both operators listed run PADI open-water The Madang Provincial Government Day is cel- Memorial and the golf course. The rooms are
Sights certification (around K1000), snorkelling ebrated in early August, and Independence Day large and some are split over two storeys, ideal
On an overgrown grassy mound in the centre cruises and one-day, two-dive packages (K220 on 16 September is celebrated with gusto. for families or groups. Coastwatchers offers
of town is the old cemetery. Tombstones have to K290), of which the combination wreck/ weekend discounts and loyalty points to Qantas
fallen over and become illegible with time, but reef dive gives you the best of both worlds. Sleeping Frequent Flyer members. There’s good dining
it’s an interesting reminder of the German and You can also hire gear from both shops. Madang has some of the best accommoda- in Coasties Restaurant and Bar (meals K35 to
Australian colonial days. Aquaventures PNG (%853 3123; www.aquaventures tion options in the country, from budget K45; open 6am to 9.30am, 11.30am to 2pm
The 30m-high Coastwatchers’ Memorial bea- -png.com.pg; Jais Aben Resort) Located 22km north of stays to plush resorts. and 6pm to 10.30pm) upstairs on the open-air
con, visible 25km out to sea, is a reminder of Madang at Jais Aben Resort (p146), Aquaventures won a Lutheran Guesthouse (%852 2589; lghm@global veranda. On a muggy night it catches a pleasant
those who stayed behind enemy lines during PADI environmental award for raising locals’ awareness of .net.pg; Coralita St; s/d/f K66/77/98, self-contained units breeze, and the lazy fans and cane furniture add
WWII to report on Japanese troop and ship reef ecology and sustainable fishing practices. If you dive K132) Breakfast is included and additional to the tropical ambience. A buffet is served on
movements. It’s a rather ugly concrete me- the nearby Mitchell B-25 bomber, ask to read its folder of meals are K15. If fully occupied, solo trav- Thursdays (K44).
morial, but the 3km beachfront road south information about the wreck. The brutally brief ‘lost-in- ellers are expected to share and each room, Madang Resort Hotel and Kalibobo Village Resort
of the memorial is the most pleasant walk in action’ telegrams are quite moving. Aquaventures comes although basic, has its own bathroom. The (%852 2655; www.mtspng.com; Coastwatchers Ave; s K210-
Madang, fringed by palm trees and poincianas highly recommended. self-contained unit sleeps five. 510, d K230-530 plus tax; ais) Madang Resort
144 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • M a d a n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d M a d a n g 145
and Kalibobo Village are owned by the same and hats, and you’ll see Bukaware and items Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; Lae %472 5699) has setting where you can swim, snorkel and get
people, sit side by side, share facilities but are from the Sepik. Have a look through the no office in town but the staff in the Lae of- around in an outrigger canoe. There’s a popu-
run separately. Both are five star all the way: market and in the carvers’ huts attached to fice should be able to give you the schedule lar picnic spot, which was a former rest area
enormous waterfront grounds, three pools, Madang Lodge and Madang Resort Hotel. All for the MV Kokopo Queen, which sails twice for wounded Australian soldiers in the days
some brilliant orchid gardens, various wildlife the hotels have gift shops. monthly to Vanimo (K165, two nights) via following the Japanese surrender in WWII.
menageries, a carvers’ workshop, poolside The market has fruit and vegetables as well Wewak (K80, overnight). Alternatively the Krangket is a lovely spot and worth the K5
bars and restaurants, a conference centre, as some clothing, bilums and local shell jewel- staff at Luship may be able to help. locals charge visitors for entry.
travel agent and dive shop (p142). Rooms lery. The large Cash & Carry and Steamships Boats from Madang (K0.50, 15 minutes)
range from Presidential Suites to cottages and trade stores carry pretty much everything you CAR drop their passengers about 45 minutes’
everything in between. might need, including bush knives, kerosene Budget (%852 1144; Coastwatchers Hotel, Coastwatch- walk from the lodge, though you should be
lamps, food and clothing. ers Ave) The chauffeur service (per hr K80) includes driver, able to negotiate passage to the lodge end of
Eating tax and fuel. the island.
The overall standard for restaurant dining Getting There & Around Hertz (%852 3103; Modilon Rd) The Krangket Island Lodge (%852 3302 Madang
in Madang is probably PNG’s best outside of TO/FROM THE AIRPORT Visitors & Cultural Bureau or 852 2655 Madang Resort Hotel;
Port Moresby’s. The airport is 7km out from Madang. Most PMV s/f K40/80) is operated by the Dum clan (pro-
Janek Aben Restaurant (%854 1323; Coastwatchers of the hotels and guesthouses have compli- On the north coast the road is sealed to Bogia. nounced ‘doom’). It consists of a few com-
Ave; meals K18-35; h6.30-9.30am & 10am-3pm) This mentary airport transfers and will meet your PMVs travel to Siar village (K1, 35 minutes), fortable bush cottages tucked away from the
restaurant serves breakfast and informal flight. PMVs run along Independence Dr and Riwo/Jais Aben (K1, 45 minutes), Malolo (K3, village. They’re rustic but come with kitchen-
lunches. Located in the Madang Resort Hotel into town (K2). one hour) and Bogia (K12, four hours). ette, private bathroom, shower and septic toi-
and Kalibobo Village Resort. Heading south along Madang’s main thor- let. The kitchenette has a gas stove, kerosene
oEden Restaurant (%852 3198; Coronation AIR oughfare, the road becomes the Ramu Hwy fridge and utensils. There’s fresh linen, but
Dr; meals K20-30; h10.30am-2pm & 5.30-10pm Mon- Madang was headquarters of the now defunct and rises over the tortuous Finisterre Range you need to take your own provisions.
Sat, 5.30-10pm Sun) Admittedly, this restaurant Airlink and is consequentially feeling the into the vast Ramu Valley on its way to Lae;
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
to have no views at all. But people don’t come leave their roosts) for fear of bat-strike! ing and the only ‘interstate’ in the country. white-sand beaches, great snorkelling and
for the view, they come for the fantastic lunch- Air Niugini (%852 2699; fax 852 2849; Nuna St) has Wet seasons wash out bridges in the Ramu village guesthouse accommodation. Siar is
time specials (K12) and a bowl of fiery seafood flights into Madang daily from Port Moresby Valley and cause occasional landslides in the a short boat ride (K2) from Madang and has
laksa (curry noodles) that’s guaranteed to (K487, one hour) and Wewak (K360, 40 min- Highlands, but the road is mostly sealed and lots of WWII aircraft wreckage. People come
knock your socks off. The dinner mains come utes) and Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday in good condition. on the weekend to picnic here. Take a mask
in three sizes and are made to share – bring flights to Lae (K270, 30 minutes), Kimbe Buses gather around the market at 8am and snorkel.
your friends. For the views, stroll on through (K556) Rabaul (K710) and Kavieng (K660). and the door-guys yell out their destinations The Siar Island Guesthouse (%692 1869; s incl
to the Madang Country Club’s clubhouse and MAF (%852 2229) and Island Airways (%852 ‘LaeLaeLaeLae’ and ‘HagenHagenHagen’ with meals K50) is another established grass-roots
buy yourself a beer. 2601) are both based at the airport and service a great sense of theatre. Once full they head guesthouse having been around since the first
Madang Club (%852 1384; Coastwatchers Ave; meals many small communities in remote areas. off. The fare to Lae is K40 (six hours) and to edition. In that time not much has changed.
K25; h11am-2pm & 6pm-10pm Mon-Sat, 6pm-10pm Sun) Their schedules vary with passenger require- Goroka K50 (seven hours). The overnight It is still run by Simon Tewa, there is still no
Get here early to secure a table on the small ments but if you are heading to the Finisterre buses to Mt Hagen (K70) rendezvous with Lae electricity, no plumbing and the toilet is still
harbourside veranda. The predominately or Bismarck Ranges or the Ramu Valley buses at Watarais where they form a convoy – a long-drop over the sea – enjoy!
Chinese/Malay lunch-time specials (K10) (Aiome, Simbai or Teptep), these are the guys presumably for safety.
are very popular. to see. Island Airways also flies to Mt Hagen. Local buses include the 6A, which runs Yabob
Rukaen (%854 1309; Coastwatchers Ave; meals K30- To charter a Cessna capable of carrying four to Barasiko market at the Lae junction, 6B Take the main Modilon Rd south out of
48) The menu features a range of Japanese people plus luggage costs around K1450 per which continues 3km up the North Coast Madang and you’ll come to the Yabob road
dishes and shabu-shabu (hotpot) is served hour of flying time. Highway and 6C that goes to Yabob village. forking left just after the hospital. It passes a
here by request. All cost K0.50. lookout and a Japanese memorial on its way
Haus Win Restaurant (%854 1333; Coastwatchers BOAT down to Yabob village. There’s a little island
Ave; meals K35-65; h6.30pm-9.30pm) This restau- Lutheran Shipping (Luship; % 852 2577; luship.ma AROUND MADANG offshore, which you can reach by canoe.
rant, located in the Madang Resort Hotel [email protected]; Modilon Rd) is predominantly Small boats run to the islands in Madang Before Europeans came, Yabob was famous
and Kalibobo Village Resort, has an excel- a cargo carrier but it is possible to secure harbour from an inlet behind the CWA for fine clay pots that were traded along the
lent international menu, a seafood buffet passage on the weekly boat to Wewak (K79 Guesthouse, hourly or so from 7am to 5.30pm coast, but not nowadays.
(K66) on Saturdays and a Sunday barbeque to K107, Monday night departure), the fort- (K1 to K5).
sizzle (K65). nightly boat to Vanimo (via Aitape; K107 Bilbil
to K192) or the monthly boat to Lorengau Krangket Island This attractive village still produces pottery
Shopping (Manus Island). There are two classes but Krangket Island, across Dallman Passage from and traditionally made some of the Pacific’s
Bilbil clay pots are a local speciality, apparently little difference between them – Madang, is a large island with several villages largest ocean-going canoes. Take the first road
Highlanders come down with some bilums both can be packed. and a beautiful lagoon. Krangket has an idyllic left after the Gum River, off the Ramu Hwy;
146 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y 147
production of Robinson Crusoe with Pierce off the main road. It’s a pretty place on its own ‘Alexishafen’ is derived from the combination
AROUND MADANG Brosnan. There’s a sulphur creek that flows little peninsula, with beaches and lawns. The of the German word for harbour, hafen, and
ὄὄ
0 4 km
0 2 miles
from a huge limestone formation. Spirits beachside bungalows are large and comfortable, the first name of a Russian princess, Alexis.
To Baragam (26km); Bogia (153km)
inhabit the site and the water has curative with enclosed verandas and seafront outlooks. The graveyard here stands as a reminder
Sek
properties. The water is incredibly clear and All have fans and TV, some have kitchens. to the early missionary period. Beyond
Harbour you can feed eels and turtles with bananas and The newer ‘deluxe’ bungalows are flashier and the mission you can see the old overgrown
Sek I
fresh meat. The best time to see butterflies is have air-con. There’s a beachfront bar where missionary-built airstrip.
Alexishafen
either around 10am or between 3pm and 5pm. burgers and steaks (K15) are served and a fine Like so much of the area, Alexishafen was
WWII Japanese
Aircraft Wrecks
Catch a 15B PMV from town (K2). restaurant (meals K33) whose changing menu badly damaged during the war. The WWII
incorporates local and international dishes. Japanese airstrip (a little off the road to the left,
Amron
Mililat Ohu Jais Aben offers half-day tours (K45) to between the mission airstrip and Alexishafen)
Harbour
The Ohu Butterfly Habitat (%852 2303; person/family nearby villages and the surrounding lagoon is now threatened by the encroaching jungle.
K10/15; h7am-3pm), 15km southwest of Madang, is perfect for snorkelling and kayaking. It is a Only bomb craters and the odd aircraft wreck
Kau Rainforest
Wonad I is a community conservation and research popular place to stay for divers as Aquaventures hint at the saturation bombing that destroyed
Museum &
Conservation
Tabad I project where butterflies, including PNG’s fa- (p142) has its dive shop and jetty next door. the base. The most impressive of these air-
Jais Aben Resort
Area
Aquaventures PNG mous birdwing varieties, feed on the nectar of Town and airport transfers are free for guests. craft wrecks is the Japanese Donryu, next to
Nagada Harbour the flowering aristolochia. Catch a 13B PMV PMV 17A runs along the main road from the bomb crater that destroyed it. Nearer to
Nobonob
Lutheran
Mission from Madang to the ‘Medo’ drop off from Madang (K1) but stops 1km shy of the resort. the road is the fuselage of an early Junkers
Mission Pig I where it is a 70-minute (5km) walk. mission aircraft.
Amron
Siar
Siar I NORTH COAST HIGHWAY A couple of kilometres further north, off Bargam
The whole north coast offers excellent beaches, to the left of the road, is Amron, the site The annual Bargam Agricultural Show has the
y
Samun I
t Hw
Krangket
I
diving and snorkelling, and some great hills of the Japanese WWII strategic command dual aims of promoting sustainable farming
MOROBE & MADANG
Biliau Krangket
h Co
I Lagoon and rivers to explore. The road runs north of headquarters. practices and providing an opportunity for
Dall
Madang as far as Bogia from where you have local singsing groups to don their feathers and
PROVINCES
Nort
PROVINCES
Madang man
Pass
Madang
Airport
Harbour age
to walk or catch speed boats if you are head- Kau Rainforest Museum & finery. While not as impressive as its Highland
ing to Wewak. Conservation Area cousins, if you are in Madang during the first
Rd
On the west side of the main coast road, not weekend in September it is worth the hour’s
rt
Binnen far from the turn-off to the Jais Aben Resort, drive north. Contact the Madang Visitors &
Air
Harbour
MADANG Beyond the Siar village turn-off on the North is a rough track leading to the Kau Rainforest Cultural Bureau (p142) for details.
Coast Hwy, 17km from Madang, there are Museum & Conservation Area.
two turn-offs. The right leads to the Lutheran In 1963, when the PNG logging industry Malolo to Hansa Bay and on to Watam
Mission on Nagada Harbour. The left leads was in its infancy, the Didipa clan set aside The road continues north to the old Malolo
to Nobonob Mission outstation, used as a over 300 hectares of its forest as a wildlife (pronounced ‘mah-lollo’) plantation, 42km
See Madang Map (p141) Japanese lookout during WWII. It’s about a conservation area. Since then the clan has up the coast, site of the Malolo Plantation
20-minute drive. There is a pretty park here protected the area from gardening, burning, Lodge (p148). The black-sand beaches along
with a fine view over the north coast, Madang logging and hunting. Today, it is one of the the coast are indicative of volcanic activity
Lookout and the harbour; below the park is one of few last significant undisturbed forest remnants on Karkar and Manam Islands. There’s good
Japanese War
Memorial
remaining virgin rainforests near Madang. near Madang. In 1992 when the clan refused swimming, but watch the currents. The 1996
Yabob Local guides can show you around and often to sign an agreement with Japanese loggers, film production of Robinson Crusoe was
y
Yabob I
Hw
take in nearby Guntabag village and the spec- an environmental impact report turned up a filmed around here.
u
BISMARCK
tacular Tamolalakud lookout. handful of Madang paradise birdwing but- About 20km on from Malolo, there’s a
m
Ra
SEA terflies, previously considered extinct. Catholic mission at Magiya. Beyond here is
To Balek Wildlife Sanctuary (7km);
Ohu Butterfly Habitat (12km);
Lae; the Highlands
Jais Aben Area There’s a small museum that seeks to re- a road leading inland about 5km to Aronis. A
Divers rave about the north coast sites, such tain and display traditional knowledge. Ask kilometre from the main village is an aid post,
Bilbil
as the US freighter Henry Leith in 20m of here for guides who will teach you about tra- near which is Manubyai Cave, home to a colony
water near Jais Aben Resort, and the nearby ditional uses for plants – the sticky sap of of horseshoe bats.
this loops back to the highway or get a PMV minesweeper Boston. The ‘waterhole’ is an the breadfruit tree can be used as glue, and Salemben is a small village about a three-
15B (K1) to four-mile market from where it enclosed lagoon connected to the open sea two local vines can be used as contraceptives. hour drive from Madang inland over rough
is a 20-minute walk. by a large underwater tunnel and offers dra- PMV 17A can deliver you to ‘Good Shepherd’ roads from Malolo. At 900m above sea level,
matic snorkelling. Sinub Island and Tab Island from where it is a 10-minute walk. the area is home to many birds of paradise
Balek Wildlife Sanctuary are also recommended snorkelling spots but and a nice guesthouse (p148).
This wildlife management area (adult/child/ landowners ask a K5 levy. Alexishafen Bogia is 185km northwest of Madang
student K7/1/2.50) is 10km south of Madang. The Jais Aben Resort (%853 3111; jaisaben@global Alexishafen Catholic Mission is off the road to and the departure point for Manam Island.
It’s featured in scenes from the 1996 film .net.pg; r185-230; ais) is 20km from Madang, the right, 23km north of Madang. The name The road is sealed all the way to Bogia but
148 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • N o r t h C o a s t H i g h w a y Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I n l a n d 149
peters out a short distance thereafter be- on the western shore. If you are heading up is to either catch a bus to Boroi and canoe to SIMBAI TO THE RAMU RIVER TREK
fore the mighty Ramu River. At Bogia Bay, the Ramu ask the men around here about boat Watam, or catch a PMV to the Ramu River base It is possible to walk and raft from Simbai
a Japanese Zero fighter lies upside down in departures otherwise continue walking along camp (K5) and from there catch a PMV boat to the Ramu River base camp in five to six
the water a few hundred metres out from the the coast (low tide only), through Marangis (or charter your own) to Watam. From Watam days. This route, developed by the Simbai
jetty. Bogia town is a pretty place – the crystal- village, to Watam. Due to its strategic position, boats leave for Angoram on the Sepik. villagers, only opened in 2007 and repre-
clear waters of the bay and the numerous it is not surprising that Watam is one of the sents a fantastic opportunity to experience
traditional villages make it an ideal place to bigger villages in the area. Ask around for INLAND something truly unique. Guides are essential
lose a few days. Felix Eddie who speaks excellent English and There are some isolated and interesting places (who else will have the homestay contacts?)
In 2004 the Manam Island volcano erupted, is knowledgeable on this area. From Watam, in central Madang Province. The Ramu is and while it isn’t a patch on the Kokoda
displacing 6000 people who fled to the safety banana boats regularly leave for Angoram on one of PNG’s great rivers and its broad val- Track, you will need to be capable of walk-
of the mainland. Only 2000 or so have re- the Sepik River. ley is sugar cane and cattle country. The ing all day.
turned. It is possible to visit the still-smoking Ramu Sugar Refinery is a major industrial The first day’s eight-hour walk from
island and explore the carnage. Anua Negu SLEEPING development, designed to make PNG self- Simbai brings you to Kenenj where you can
Lodge (right) can arrange a speed boat (K400, Keki Eco-Mountain Lodge (%852 3302 Madang Visitors sufficient in sugar. The Ramu Valley is also overnight. Depending on your fitness level it
one hour) to run you there and back. & Cultural Bureau; Salemben; r per person K30) Perched a major fault zone, prone to earthquakes and may be wise to split this leg over two days.
Hansa Bay is a popular diving spot past Bogia, high on a ridge, two traditional bungalows wet-season floods. From there it’s a shorter day’s walk to Aiome
where the wreckage of 35 Japanese freighters have double rooms and cooking facilities. At and a final day’s trek brings you to Akaraski
and US aircraft lie in a shallow harbour. The around 900m above sea level it’s a great place Simbai on the banks of the Ramu River.
upper deck of the 6000-ton Shishi Maru lies in for birding, and birds of paradise often sit atop The big attraction here is an opportunity to From here catch a raft downriver to
just 6m of water, two anti-aircraft guns on the the lodge roof. It’s difficult to get to though witness the everyday workings of a rural vil- Kwanga (overnight) and then a motorised
bow point upwards and brass shell castings – catch a PMV from Madang to Bunabum lage cut off from the rest of the world. Don’t, canoe to the Ramu River base camp just
litter the deck. Two fire engines are sitting in junction and walk the remaining 26km (eight however, expect ‘natives-in-loin-cloths’ – in- after Bunapas. From the base camp it is pos-
the hold, just before the bridge, where they hours) or BYO 4WD. stead you’ll find a people, despite their isola- sible to then catch a PMV to Madang or a
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
dives. A Japanese freighter has one davit pro- opened and mere metres from the waves, this The community-built Kalam Guest House the jeep from Anua Negu Lodge (opposite)
jecting from the water (known as the Davit lodge has eight basic rooms and generator- (s/d/tr K25/35/50) is the only place to stay. It’s 15 to collect you.
Wreck); it was sunk in 1943 by US bomb- supplied electricity. If you can’t face yet an- minutes from Simbai Station, and constructed
ers. You can swim through the wreck, which other pack of instant noodles the women here from bush materials. Vegetarian fare (K8 to Bundi & Brahmin
makes this an exciting dive in only 12m of will cook meals upon request. The lodge of- K15) is provided but bring your own protein Bundi is a six-hour walk from Brahmin
water. Nearby, in 10m of water, is the Mast fers jeep tours to nearby beaches where it (eggs, meat or canned fish). Mission, and Brahmin is about 25km west
Wreck, with its mast protruding from the is possible to snorkel US and Japanese war The locals have rallied and organised treks from the Lae–Madang road. PMVs travel
water; there is a gun on the bow, ammuni- wrecks (BYO gear). It can also arrange a and homestays as far afield as the Ramu River. from Madang to Brahmin (K10, two hours).
tion on the deck and a field artillery piece in day trip to the smoking, volcanic island of In Madang contact MAF (%852 2229) or Esron There are some simple bungalows in Bundi
the hold. The Madang dive shops organise Manam (K400). Dotch (%852 3416) well in advance so the vil- at Mt Sinai Centre (Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau
dives to Hansa Bay and other north-coast Malolo Plantation Lodge (%542 1438; Mt Hagen; lage can prepare for your arrival, especially % 852 3302). This is midway on the walk
sites. See p142. www.pngtours.com; s/d US$305/400; as) In lovely if you want them to perform a traditional down to Madang from the Highlands, and
There’s some marine-biology research surrounds and fronting a long black-sand singsing (K300). In Simbai contact Dickson about the only place to stay in the region.
happening on Laing Island in Hansa Bay, beach, the lodge operated by Trans Niugini Kangi (ask around to find him), who speaks
a beautiful island with white beaches and Tours (p165) was once a plantation house. on behalf of the chief, Ernest Simgi. The SOUTH OF MADANG
good snorkelling. The grounds are planted with orchids and Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau is also The Rai Coast Highway connects Madang to
After Bogia is a series of old coconut plan- stag-horn ferns, and birds abound, includ- worth contacting (p142). Lae on paper only, although it may be possible
tations, now home to many Manam Island ing a tame kokomo (horn bill) featured in The inaugural Kalam Culture Festival was to get through in a 4WD in the dry season.
relocation camps. Villagers have cut patches Robinson Crusoe. Malolo is sometimes empty, held in 2005. In 2006 there were nine tour- Otherwise travel down the coast is by speed
into the plantations to grow their gardens. catering as it does for mostly inbound pack- ists, in 2007 only 14. Held in the third week boat (aka banana boat) and into the mighty
Eventually the road narrows to a single-lane age tourists who spend a few days in each of of September the festival is a unique chance Finisterre Range by MAF light aircraft.
track and abruptly ends at a small, deep tidal Trans Niugini Tours’ hotels around PNG. It’s to witness traditional ceremonies which are
river. If you are not up for swimming, hail a very nice place, but it’s way overpriced for a normally closed to tourists – adult initiation Bandit
the villagers on the other side for a lift in walk-up punter. rites, bride-price exchanges and pig-killing In an effort to revive their culture, the
their canoe. festivities. There is talk of making the festi- Dugu Roots Growers Association launched
To walk to the Ramu River mouth either fol- GETTING THERE & AWAY val a biannual event; check with the Madang the Umboldi Cultural Show in February 2007.
low the inland footpath through a swamp then The 17C PMV runs from Madang to Malolo for Visitors & Cultural Bureau (p142) first. There were only five or six groups in attend-
onto the beach, or head for the beach directly. K3. It’s more than three hours’ drive to Bogia Simbai is 45 minutes from Madang Airport ance, but what the show lacked in numbers
The Ramu is too large to swim, so wave and and PMVs travel up daily (K12). Besides walk- by Island Airways Cessna (K290) or about 30 the 3m-tall wicker headdresses made up for
shout madly to the folks in the fishing camp ing the best way to get from Bogia to the Sepik minutes from Mt Hagen with MAF (K190). in size.
© Lonely Planet Publications
150 MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I s l a n d s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA D A N G P R O V I N C E • • I s l a n d s 151
basalt and seek permission from the villagers that in a hurry; two hours, K50) leave from
‘ROOS IN TREES as the crater has religious significance. Madang’s Rab-Trad wharf.
The last place you expect to find a kangaroo is in a tree. At first glance they seem rather ill-suited A road encircles the island and it takes four Alternatively catch the 17C PMV north to
to an arboreal lifestyle – monkeys, yes; kangaroos, no. Whenever people think of kangaroos they hours to drive around. You can also walk Kubugam (K5, one hour) and from there a
imagine great big brutes bounding across the vast Australian deserts, not these furry little fel- around, but treat the river crossings with cau- speedboat to either Kinim or Biabi (K30).
las clambering up New Guinea trees. It doesn’t seem right, but the staff at the Woodland Park tion. When it rains on the mountain, water
Zoo in Seattle, USA and the headquarters of the Tree Kangaroo Conservation Program (TKCP; comes down these rivers like a wall – there Manam Island
www.zoo.org/conservation/treeroo.html) assured us they are a kind of kangaroo alright, ‘right down have been deaths. Karkar is encircled by a reef Manam is 15km offshore from Bogia. It’s an
to their pouches’. and has good beaches and snorkelling. almost perfect volcanic cone, rising to 1829m.
There are 10 species of tree kangaroos – all with incredibly long tails for balancing (hence their The high school and the airstrip are at the The soil is extremely fertile and very produc-
Tok Pisin name: kapul longpela tel) and large claws to assist in climbing. And furthermore, if they government station at Kinim. tive, but the volcano has blown 23 times in the
do fall (or jump), they invariably land safely and hop off with true kangaroo aplomb. Tugutugu Guesthouse (per person K60; meals K5-15) last 100 years. It erupted in 1996 and 1997,
The TKCP is particularly active in the mountains and villages of the Kabwum District including is the only accommodation on the island and killing 30 people and wiping out villages.
Teptep village, collaborating with locals to protect the species and conserve their habitat on the about 3km from Kulili wharf (45 minutes At night the crater glows and spurts orange
Huon Peninsula. The result is a community-based conservation programme that has been working by foot), and 10km from Kinim wharf. The trailers into the sky. There is a seismological
to create PNG’s first official Conservation Area under the PNG Conservation Areas Act. guesthouse is set in beautiful grounds and is a observatory on the side of the cone.
Besides being incredibly lucky in the forests near Teptep, your best chance to see one of these 15-minute walk to a white sandy beach where Manam erupted twice again in late 2004
tree-hugging ’roos is at the Rainforest Habitat in Lae (p129) or at the National Botanic Gardens it is possible to rent canoes (K20). causing the rapid evacuation of the island’s
in Port Moresby (p76). 9000 people. It remains one of the world’s
GETTING THERE & AWAY most active volcanoes.
Cargo ships bound for Kulili (MV Medea or Manam is 193km from Madang and not
The celebrations are divided into the day- You will need to prearrange a boat to collect MV Kanaogi, K15, six hours) or Biabi (MV easy to get to. Government and private boats
time ‘red’ singsing, when participants paint you; again, the Madang Visitors & Cultural Thompson or MV Tuali, K15, four hours) leave Bogia for Manam most days, although
MOROBE & MADANG
PROVINCES
when the headdresses are changed for some- ISLANDS
thing less cumbersome. Long Island
It takes three to four hours by boat from The largest of the volcanic islands, Long is
Madang to the nearest wharf in Fangel and 48km off the coast. It has two active craters,
from there a further three-hour walk to one of which contains a lake surrounded by
Bandit. The Madang Visitors & Cultural crater walls that rise to 250m. There are only
Bureau (p142) should be able to advice on a few hundred people on the island and it’s
exact dates. renowned for prolific birdlife and the many
fish that swarm around its reefs. Turtles come
Teptep ashore to lay their eggs at certain times of the
Almost 2000m up in the Finisterre Range, year. Getting there isn’t easy – from Madang,
Teptep is a small, isolated village on the border you can hire a banana boat or catch a lift with
with Morobe Province, and is a good base for a boat supplying a trade store.
trekking in the area. Researchers for the Tree
Kangaroo Conservation Program (see boxed Karkar Island
text, above) visit here but you are unlikely to William Dampier, the English pirate-cum-
come nose to snout with a tree hugging ‘roo explorer, made an early landing on this is-
yourself. The Teptep Guesthouse (%852 2229 MAF land. Later, Lutheran missionaries had a hard
in Madang; s K30) has spectacular views and deli- time from malaria, volcanic eruptions and
cious home-grown strawberries. Evenings are the fierce inhabitants and were temporarily
cool, like the Highlands, so come prepared. evicted. Today Karkar has both Catholic and
MAF flies to Teptep a few times each week Lutheran missions.
from both Madang (K290) and Lae. An The island is also one of the most fertile
interesting trip is to fly in and walk out to places in the country with some of the most
Bonga (via Jauptamon) on the coast. It is a productive copra plantations in the world. The © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
long 13-hour trek down a rain-worn, root- volcano erupted violently in 1974 and again restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
ridden, muddy path. Locals like to whistle in 1979, killing two vulcanologists. It takes
and yodel as they walk, we prefer to grunt and 12 hours return to climb the crater (1831m, only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
groan. Bonga is well known for its dugongs K135 for a guide); bring plenty of sunscreen everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
and sea turtles. to combat the heat that bounces off the bare the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
152 lonelyplanet.com T H E H I G H L A N D S • • H i s t o r y 153
THE HIGHLANDS
economy based on coffee, tea, gold and copper. Land ownership, particularly in the Highlands, is highly complex and very important – disputes
over land are often at the root of tribal war. People can inherit land, not just from their parents,
but from any known ancestor. All descendants of a woman who planted a tree have rights to
its fruit, and people have rights to widely scattered pieces of land.
HIGHLIGHTS
Besides land-related issues, men will go to war to resolve political differences, settle grudges
Bouncing along the stunning Highlands or avenge the death of a pig. The usual method of engagement is for both warring parties to
Wabag
Hwy (p155) with a truck full of locals Mt Wilhelm
line up opposite each other, spend several hours slinging insults back and forth until eventually
Tari Basin one of the mock charges crosses a tipping point and an all-out battle ensues.
Climbing Mt Wilhelm (p162) and seeing the Mt Hagan
north and south coasts Goroka
The conflict is always confined to the parties involved and in the days of crude clubs and
Highlands Hwy steel bush knives it was possible to observe the fight as long as you remained clearly impartial.
Photographing the beautifully adorned Lake Kutubu
In the past, fights have even attracted TV crews and wives bearing packed lunches. However,
performers at one of the Highland shows in Wasi Falls with the advent of guns, and sniper-like tactics, the crowds are a little less inclined to get too
Goroka (p158), Wabag (p168) or Mt Hagen near the action and we certainly do not recommend you attend – well not without some kind
(p166) of bullet-proof armour and a crash helmet.
Meeting Huli wigmen (p173) and birds of When peace is brokered, it’s usually longstanding. It’s worth scanning newspapers for informa-
paradise in the Tari Basin (p173) tion on conflicts and resolutions. A recent settlement that we read about involved K200,000, a
Visiting magnificent Lake Kutubu (p172) and the Wasi Falls (p172), PNG’s highest falls
python, several pigs, beer, two rifles and a cassowary changing hands. Also scan the countryside
for the circular, fenced areas filled with green-and-purple tanget bushes. These are the burial
places of fallen tribal warriors.
POPULATION: 1.9 MILLION AREA: 62,500 SQ KM
154 T H E H I G H L A N D S • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E H I G H L A N D S • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A r o u n d 155
ᎊᎊ
PROVINCE Ra Utu Mission
(3711m) Yua ng e Madang SEA
Oksapmin Lagaip River t
Highlands Hwy just east of Watarais. Past
River
ENGA Ri
ve Jim Simbai MADANG
Lake
PROVINCE
Kompian
r
iR Mt Herbert Ra
mu PROVINCE Cape
Goroka the road continues through the valley
ive (4267m)
lan
d Kopiago
Baiyer River
r
Bom
Rigny to Asaro, then climbs steeply to the Daulo Pass
ick Laiagam Wabag B
(2450m), and continues twisting and turning
Rive
Str Porgera i Bogadjim Dein
Nose Mountain sm F i Bibi
n i all the way to Mt Hagen, Kundiawa and the
r
Usino
M
(3079m)
WESTERN Tabibuga a s t
ul
Mt Karoma r c er
Wapenamanda HIGHLANDS Wahgi Valley.
le
(3623m) Mt Wilhelm re
Mt Dini
PROVINCE Wamol k Bundi Koropa
r
Mt Hagen (4509m)
(3017m)
R
an Koroba Dome Peaks (3834m)
Banz
Brahmin
Ra R Between Mt Hagen and Mendi the road
(3566m) The Sugarloaf Kegsugl Ra mu an
ge (3718m)
Kandep Tambul
Highllands Hwy W
ag
Kerowagi ng
e Dumpu g is spectacular; you skirt Mt Giluwe, PNG’s
Tari Highlan (3413m) Mt Hagen hi Hw e
ds
Hwy
Minj W
ag
hi
Gembogl
Asaro
y second-highest mountain (4368m), and go
Asa
Pingarip Kup Mt Otto
Margarima Kundiawa
Daulo
Goroka (3546m)
Gusap
through some beautiful valleys. After Mendi
ro R
Mt Huriaga Mt Giluwe Pass
Pararabuk
you pass ceremonial grounds, a suspension
River
(3383m) Kip (4368m) Watarais
er
i
Bena Bena
ve
Riv Kuminga
r
ad Gumine
bridge over the Lai River, the stunning Poroma
ᎊ ᎊ
m SOUTHERN Nipa Va Chuave Kassam
No Mendi
Mt Ialibu lle
HIGHLANDS y Henganofi Yonki
W
Nomad (3465m) Kaiapit Valley and ultimately climb the 2900m pass
Ka
ag
u
SIMBU Kilau Kainantu
ge
Poroma Lufa
Ri
Pangia EASTERN Arona overlooking the wide and fertile Tari Basin.
l
Ri
ve
r HIGHLANDS
Lake
Kutubu
Er
av
eR
Kagua
er
Mt Michael
(3647m) PROVINCE The road deteriorates after Tari.
Riv To Nadzab;
Mt Bosavi Pimaga iv
er
Tua
Crater Mountain Okapa Obura Lae A fork in the road after Mt Hagen goes to
Mu
(2397m)
Le
bi R
ive
(3280m)
Ri
ver Wabag, and this stretch has some incredibly
on r
jagged mountains and fierce rivers. A reason-
am
Erave Mt Piora
ar (3557m)
rkh
d Kantobo r
M Wasi Falls Ri
ve able road runs north from Mt Hagen through
Ma
ur Wonenara
ra re
Mt Murray Au the spectacular Baiyer Gorge to Baiyer River
Pura
y (2254m) Mt Tabletop
R Mt Akana Marawaka
WESTERN an River (3380m)
(3686m)
and a good road branches off the Mendi road
Gu
ri
PROVINCE ge
av
Ki GULF PROVINCE
ko and continues on to Wabag and Porgera.
i
s Mt Yelia MOROBE
ri
Ri
Ri (3384m)
ve
PROVINCE
ver In 2008 the long anticipated Southern
r
THE HIGHLANDS
Payback is common and disputes over Guineans developed powerful carved arts and are hold-ups, buses are ambushed and the You can drive yourself, but you’ll pay a pre-
women, land and pigs are often settled by artefact manufacture, the Highlanders turned passengers are robbed. During times of mium for a hire car and it will have to be a
financial negotiations. Payback can be levied their creative energies mostly on themselves. political tension and tribal war seek advice 4WD. Rental firms often have restrictions on
against a clan for crimes done by an indi- Highlands people are skilled farmers and from locals in each town before heading off remote-area use, which particularly apply to
vidual (the clan is responsible for its people), take pride in their decorative gardens. They to the next town in a PMV (public motor the Highlands. The same risks apply to car
so a murdered man’s clan may kill an other- grow sweet potato in neat mounds about 1.5m vehicle). West of Mendi (p170) can be travel as to bus travel – but at least in a bus
wise innocent party in revenge. Even today in diameter. The mounds are fertilised with particularly volatile. you’re with other people.
when negotiations break down the clans start ashes and are very productive. For more information on car hire in PNG,
fighting. The Highlands is a ‘dry region’, and alcohol Getting There & Around see p317.
Try and see a Highlands singsing (celebra- cannot be purchased outside licensed premises AIR
tory festival or dance); the costumes alone such as hotels, clubs and resorts. However, See the relevant towns for flight details in and PMV
rival anything at Rio de Janeiro’s Carnivale there’s a booming black market in beer and out of the Highlands. PMV travel from the coast to Goroka and
or Sydney’s Gay and Lesbian Mardi Gras. all of PNG has a problem with wickedly strong Mt Hagen is safe, easy and cheap. It’s also
Singsings can happen for all sorts of reasons home-brewed alcohol and violence. ROAD TRAVEL incredible country to drive through. PMVs
and they are always spectacular. Highlanders The most important road in PNG starts in don’t go anywhere unless they’re packed to
in traditional costume and face paint dancing Dangers & Annoyances Lae and runs up into the central Highlands. the brim, so expect a squeeze. They usually
in formation and playing their kundus (an Parts of the PNG Highlands are genuinely Where the highway ends depends on your leave from the main market area in town,
hourglass-shaped drum with lizard skin) are high. You should give yourself a few days ac- definition. As a decent road, it now con- and drop you at the market area of the next
really quite a sight. The Goroka Show (p158) climatisation at lower altitudes before taking tinues to Tari, in a rougher condition to town, although the driver will often take you
and the Hagen Show (p166) are annual events on any serious mountain climbing or exces- Koroba and in still rougher condition to to where you’re staying if you ask politely.
156 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a 157
ὈὈὈ
21 University
Scha
PROVINCE Darts is serious business in the Highlands A B
St
of Goroka C D
ffhaut
To Kundiawa; Kyle
and great fortunes are won and lost on Mt Hagen INFORMATION
S
r
ive
sen
Zok Elliot R To Asaro ANZ Bank....................................1 C2
Undulating kunai- (grass-) covered hills and a single throw. Men play darts at road- ozoi
St zoi Bank South Pacific........................2 C2
Riv ko
y
Hw
side ‘clubs’ where a dozen dartboards are er McG Zo Computer Shop...........................3 C2
neat villages of low-walled round huts are 1 rath
thea
d D
r
DHL...........................................(see 3)
nds
St
fixed to posts sticking out of the ground. Grea
the defining characteristics of the Eastern 13 Goroka Hospital...........................4 A3
hla
22
Highlands. Listen carefully for the secrets The rules are more or less the same as for 20 Police Station................................5 B2
Hig
ὈὈὈ
Post Office...................................6 B2
whispered by the tuffs of grass fixed to the regular darts, but you stand a lot further National Westpac Bank..............................7 C2
23
peaks of roofs of these houses. away – Highlands darts is something be- Water
Park
S p u r
The most heavily populated of all the tween regular darts and javelin throwing. Tanks
va
zo
provinces, the region has had longer con- Sometimes you can see men in traditional o
Ku
n
nd
10
costume playing at village darts clubs.
rd
ia
tact with the West than the other Highland 8 St
a
a
11
Waukaue
G
Rd
provinces and was the first to feel the
McWilliam
ὈὈὈ
2 National 14
25
Wisdom St
impact of the missionaries, prospectors, Park
Garden
ited these parts. Eastern Highlanders live Dr
Gurney St
6
St
1 Bird of Paradise Hotel.................12 C2
tered around the northern end of the airport,
e
24
c
at altitudes between 1500m and 2300m
en
Diwai Hotel Lodge......................13 C1
d
St
although there are a few places to stay, and a 7 Parer2
en
Fox
Goroka Lodge............................14 C2
St
and are a less cohesive group than their
ep
St Lutheran Guesthouse.................15 B2
Ind
Highland cousins. tiny museum, in the streets on the airport’s 26 Mendikwae Guest House...........16 B3
16
western flank. Although the town is small
Edwards Rd
M Mendikwae Lodge.....................17 B3
The mountains of this province form the Numune Pl (O ai
Ikani St
17 ld n Mendikwae Lodge Bed &
headwaters for two of PNG’s most impor- enough to walk around, PMVs run up and St Senofi St
Hw Rd
y) Breakfast................................18 B3
down the stretch of main road, Edwards Rd iya National Sports Institute.............19 A4
Ma 18
tant river systems: the Ramu River, which Leig
h Via
l St
28 Airport Pacific Gardens Hotel.................20 C1
(Highlands Hwy).
(Highlands
3
Morchhause
Go
Research & Conservation Foundation
runs parallel to the coast to the northwest,
Bungi St
Pursehouse St
Rd 4
ro
ma
Transit House.........................21 B1
ka
and the Wahgi and Aure Rivers, which run Ka Salvation Army Motel Units........22 B1
MAPS
Creek
Homate St
YWCA Guesthouse.....................23 B1
south and enter the Gulf of Papua as the
Hwy)
r St
Purari River. The province’s highest point There are some maps in the front pages of EATING
is Mt Michael (3647m). the phone book. Griffiths St Mandarin Restaurant.................24 C2
Airport Rd
SHOPPING
Goripa St
GOROKA Information Brechin St Market.......................................25 B2
Asaro Ave
Glover St
peratures and warm people – both can be a Ambulance (%732 1166, 111) 19 Sports
Air Niugini...............................(see 26)
Airport Terminal.........................26 B3
Melekeni
welcome relief from lowland heat and Port Fire (%732 1111/3) Near the airport terminal. 4 Oval
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Avis.........................................(see 26)
Moresby paranoia. The town has grown Police (%732 1222; Elizabeth St) 27 Atprojects Office..........................8 C2 Budget.....................................(see 12)
Goroka Trek and Tours..............(see 3) MAF...........................................27 B4
St
from a small outpost in the mid-1950s to 9 JK McCarthy Museum..................9 B4 PMV Stop...................................28 B3
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
a major commercial centre, and it’s now INTERNET ACCESS To Kainantu (80km); Mt Kis Lookout..........................10 D2 PMVs to Kundiawa, Lae, Mt
Makinono Lae(290km); Lufa; Raun Raun Theatre.....................11 B2 Hagen..................................(see 25)
the main town in the Eastern Highlands Computer Shop (%732 1944; Elizabeth St; per 15min St
Madang
Province. K6.60, burn CD K22) Has the best, no make that the only,
Mountains encircle the town which in connections in town. POST the post office. Performances are irregular,
turn almost encircles the airport. Leafy DHL (%732 3555; Elizabeth St; h8.30am-5pm) but you might get lucky.
streets, a pleasant climate and all the es- MEDICAL SERVICES Post Office (%732 2470; Elizabeth St; h8am-4pm
sential services combine to make it one of There are several pharmacies in town. Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am Sat) JK MCCARTHY MUSEUM
PNG’s most attractive towns. More relaxed Goroka Hospital (%731 2100; Leigh Vial St) One of JK McCarthy was one of PNG’s legendary
than Mt Hagen, safer than Lae, and caught the best in the country; also houses the PNG Institute of TELEPHONE patrol officers and wrote one of the classic
between them both means there are decent Medical Research. There are Telikad prepaid public phones near books on New Guinea patrolling – Patrol
roads in and out of town. the post office and in hotel foyers. into Yesterday. The museum (admission by donation;
The old colonial houses with their spa- MONEY h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat, 10am-noon Sun)
cious verandas on McNicholl St hark back Travellers cheques can be cashed at the bigger Sights is not far from the National Sports Institute,
to pre-independence days, an arguably hotels as well as banks – compare rates. The RAUN RAUN THEATRE but a long walk from the town centre.
wealthier time. Today the main cash crop bigger hotels accept major credit cards. Goroka’s acclaimed theatre group, Raun Raun Among the exhibits are pottery, weapons,
is coffee and you’ll see it growing under the ANZ (%732 2000; Elizabeth St) Has ATMs. Traveller’s Theatre, has toured nationally and interna- clothes and musical instruments, and even
canopies of larger trees in the hills through- cheques cashed for a flat K3. tionally. The theatre (%732 1116; Wisdom St) is some grisly jewellery – Anga mourning neck-
out the district. At 1600m, Goroka enjoys Bank South Pacific (%732 1633; Parer St) There are a superb building, which blends traditional laces of human fingers! ‘Peer through the mists
a ‘perpetual springtime’ of warm days and ATMs in a booth and a foreign-exchange desk inside. materials and modern architecture. It’s lo- of time’ courtesy of a fascinating collection of
cool nights. Westpac (%732 1140; Fox St) cated on parkland about 500m due north of photos – many taken by Mick Leahy when he
158 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • G o r o k a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d G o r o k a 159
first reached the area in 1933. There are also Make accommodation arrangements early Diwai Hotel Lodge (x732 3840; Greathead Dr; s K125, Shopping
WWII relics, including a P-39 Aircobra. as many places (especially top-end hotels) are d & tw K140) Opened in 2007, the Diwai has a There are several supermarkets and stores
booked out months in advance. Prices, like a pleasant outlook over the Zokozoi River but clustered between the post office and the Bird
MT KIS LOOKOUT Highland headdress, go sky-high. is a good 10 minutes’ walk from the town of Paradise Hotel. Souvenir sellers camp out-
Wisdom St, beside the post office, leads to a The PNG Coffee Festival (www.easternhighlands.com centre. Rooms are comfortable if plain, have side the Bird, stringing up their bilums (string
track that climbs to an excellent lookout, Mt .pg; adult/child K4/2) is usually held over the first tea- and coffee-making facilities and breakfast bags), hats, spears, bows, masks, Buka-ware
Kis, so-called because it’s the lovers’ leap of weekend in May at the Raun Raun Theatre is included in the rate. and jewellery on the wrought-iron fences of
Goroka. It’s a long, steep walk. There are two (p157). It features singsing groups, contem- Mendikwae Lodge Bed & Breakfast (%732 3466; the provisional government building. Some
large water tanks halfway there, and a ladder porary music, art exhibitions, a trade fair and Leigh Vial St; tw K165) Run by the same people that mild haggling is acceptable here.
you can climb to catch spectacular views of the formal coffee ball. run the Mendikwae Lodge. Rooms share the The open-air market (hclosed Sun) is in-
distant valleys through the pine trees and the large communal lounge and kitchen. teresting to walk through. It’s very busy on
Highlands mist. It’s well worth the effort. Sleeping & Eating Pacific Gardens Hotel (%732 3418; pacifichotel@ Saturday, but colourful any day and you’ll
There’s a good range of accommodation op- datec.net.pg; Mokara St; d K195-300, ste K395; i) In the see piles of potatoes and exotic leafy greens as
Tours tions, from budget rooms to high-end suites. grounds of an expats’ residential estate, this well as more familiar tomatoes, capsicums and
Many of the local tour operators are one-man Besides kai bars (cheap, takeaway food bars), hotel has recently been upgraded and is all avocados. Bilums and Highland hats are sold,
bands, without an office and notoriously dif- eating options outside the hotels are few. The the better for it. The vast, hilly property has as are spools of intensely colourful twines and
ficult to contact. It is worth checking out the market sells an array of fresh fruit and vegeta- an eco-lodge vibe with its lovely lawns and strings used in bilum manufacture. Watch out
notice board next to the gift shop in the Bird bles, peanuts and probably a cuscus or two. adjacent river. There are also meals-inclusive for pickpockets.
of Paradise Hotel and asking the gift-shop National Sports Institute (%732 2391; natspoin@ packages and airport transfers available. The
staff for recommendations. Most operators daltron.com.pg; Glover St; s/d K44/88) If you don’t mind restaurant (meals K20 to K35, open breakfast, Getting There & Around
can arrange a trip to various villages including being this far from the town centre, this is a lunch and dinner) is a great place to relax with AIR
that of the Asaro Mudmen, as well as nature good budget option. Bathroom and kitchen a good book. Between Airlines PNG pulling out of Goroka
walks and day treks. facilities are shared and it’s a lot like a univer- Mendikwae Lodge (%732 3466; Ikani St; unit for up in 2007 and the demise of Airlink, poor old
Casper Guide Services (%732 9355) sity dorm with segregated buildings for men to 4 people K220) These self-contained units have Goroka has been left at the whim of Air Niugini
Goroka Trek & Tours (%732 1281; mikata@png and women. The spacious grounds are fairly two rooms – a double bed in one, two singles (%732 1444). Unfortunately Air Niugini’s
-japan.co.jp; Shop 12B, Bird of Paradise Hotel, Elizabeth quiet except when the Goroka show is on next in the other – a kitchen with utensils and TV. whim is that all flights are routed via Port
St) Deals mainly with Japanese tours although it also has door. There is a gym, conference facilities and Good choice for a group or family. Moresby (K507).
English-speaking guides. Advance notice is recommended. cafeteria (meals from K10 to K27, open 6am to Bird of Paradise Hotel (%731 3100; thebird@coral MAF (%732 1080; Edwards Rd) flies to Lae (K260),
Kuman Tours (%732 2493; yahookumantours@global 7pm). Rates are cheaper for sporting groups, seahotels.com.pg; Elizabeth St; s & d K253-363, ste K462; Mt Hagen (K240), Tari (K540) and a host of
.pg.net) church affiliates, students and volunteers. s) ‘The Bird’ is getting a bit tatty around highland airstrips.
Nokondi Holidays & Tours (%732 3342) Lutheran Guesthouse (%732 1516; McNicholl St; the edges but otherwise aging gracefully.
PNG High Country Tours (%732 1682; fax 732 1394) dm incl breakfast K50) Right in the centre of town The rooms are large, comfortable and the CAR & PMV
Samuel Lulu runs tours and treks around the jungles and behind the post office. Clean and straight, ones facing the garden are better than those Goroka is well served by PMVs and the
caves of the Eastern Highlands and out towards Simbu. the two-storey house has shared rooms facing the street. Facilities include a poolside Highland Hwy; it’s an easy trip to Mt Hagen
He offers village accommodation in the Namasaro Unggai and facilities. bar, gym and squash court. In conjunction (K20, four hours) in the west or down to the
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
district west of Goroka. Research & Conservation Foundation Transit with Budget, an accommodation and car- coastal cities of Lae (K30, four hours) and
PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global House (RCF; %732 1320; Kyle St; dm incl breakfast K50) hire package is available for K390 per night. Madang (K30, four to five hours) in the east.
.net.pg) In addition to tours, it can arrange billeted accom- Recently built, this good-value, dorm-style The terrace bar and restaurant (%731 1144, PMVs heading west gather at the market
modation during the show for around K90. accommodation has two bunks per room, meals K30 to K45, open 6.30am to mid- area early in the morning, but more leave as
free laundry, a shared kitchen and a TV in night) is the place to rendezvous and central the day wears on.
Festivals & Events the common room. Profits go to support the to the social life of Goroka’s well-heeled. Hire cars are available from Budget (%731
The Goroka Show (www.gorokashow.com; adult per day/ community development within the Crater The lunchtime salad buffet is particularly 3100; Bird of Paradise Hotel, Elizabeth St) and Avis (%732
3 days K100/200, child aged 10-16 K50/100, child aged under 10 Mountain Wildlife Management Area (p160) good value. 1084; Goroka airport), but you’ll pay between K175
free), is held over the Independence Day week- and staff can help you plan a trip there. Catch Mandarin Restaurant (%732 2999; Elizabeth St; and K230 per day for the car, K1 per kilometre
end (mid-September) at the National Sports town bus 3 and get off near the university. meals K30-50; h11am-2pm & 5.30-9pm) Opposite and K50 per day for insurance.
Institute. It attracts more singsing groups than Mendikwae Guest House (%732 2495; Numune the Bird, the Mandarin serves good Chinese
the Mt Hagen show and there are also bands Pl; s/d K66/88) Run by the same crowd as the food. AROUND GOROKA
and other cultural activities, as well as some Mendikwae Lodge, this place is little more Also recommended should everything be Asaro
elements of an agricultural show. The show than a bed in a box. It’s in West Goroka. booked out during the Goroka show: Asaro village, northwest of Goroka, is famous
is the glamour event on the social calendar Salvation Army Motel Units (%732 1218; McGrath St; Goroka Lodge (%732 2411; McNicholl St; s K80-147, for its mud men – warriors who traditionally
for many performers and it is extraordinary s/d K90/110) Another option where the grounds d K107-173) This place hasn’t been redecorated since covered themselves in grey mud and wore
how many feathers one person can squeeze are prettier than the accommodation. Good independence. Meals available. huge mud masks before heading off on raids.
onto a headdress. Performers all receive a pay- for self-caterers because the units come with YWCA Guesthouse (%732 2867; Wisdom St; dm It’s a very striking image, and the Asaro men
ment from the proceeds and you are neither a kitchenette including a stove and fridge. The K60) Women only. Shared facilities and a communal re-create the scene for tourists. The number
expected nor encouraged to tip individuals. bigger rooms sleep four. kitchen. of mud men is in direct proportion to the
160 E A S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • K a i n a n t u lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S I M B U P R O V I N C E • • K u n d i a w a 161
number of kina-paying tourists. Mud-men the various villages, but it’s serious trekking.
tours can be arranged by tour operators in There are three villages (Haia, Herowana and KURU
Goroka (p158). Maimafu) with basic guesthouses (c/- Research & Kuru was a disease unique to the Fore area southwest of Kainantu. Attacking the central nervous
Conservation Foundation, Goroka; %732 1320; www.rcf.org system, the disease persisted in the body for a year before causing death. Dubbed ‘the laughing
Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park .pg; per person K20) which provide beds (bring your disease’, its victims died with a peculiar smile on their faces. It only affected one language group
This 80-hectare area is set in beautiful moun- own linen) and kerosene stoves (bring your and was limited to women and children. It is known to have existed since the early 1900s, but
tain surrounds. Eleven kilometres from own food). The Research & Conservation reached epidemic proportions in the 1950s when more than 200 cases were reported. Years of
Goroka and 1000m higher, the park (per adult Foundation Transit House in Goroka (p158) epidemiological research by Goroka’s PNG Institute of Medical Research finally solved the riddle
K2, plus vehicle K5) is reached by 4WD and includes can radio each village and help make your of the disease’s cause.
a botanical sanctuary, walking tracks and a flight arrangements with MAF (%732 1080) or Kuru was linked to diet and feasting behaviour; specifically it was caused by the ritualised
lookout at 2450m with incredible views. Pacific Helicopters (%732 1833). Flight costs vary cannibalism of the brain tissue of dead clan members by women and children. Kuru is said to
A half-hour walk downhill brings you to depending on routes and number of passen- be linked to mad cow disease.
the PNG National Appropriate Technology Centre gers. Guides can be hired for K30 per day. Due to changed dietary and ritual behaviour, there’s only been a handful of cases in recent
(ATprojects; % 732-3278; [email protected]; dm incl years, the last reported in 1997.
meals K77). Part experiment in sustainable liv- Daulo Pass
ing (check out the windmill, solar panels and The road out to Mt Hagen is fairly flat through
hydro energy sources) and part social initiative Asaro, but it then hairpins its way up to 2450m and a crackling log fire at night. It’s peace- rain, it’s the second most heavily populated
(particularly those focused on community- to the Daulo Pass. The pass is cold and damp, ful and pleasant, and offers a free shuttle region in PNG. The people have turned
based rural development), the dormitory-type but the views are spectacular. to/from Goroka airport (two hours). their steep country into a patchwork of gar-
accommodation can sleep 23 people in an en- PMVs from Lae to Kainantu cost K25 and dens spreading up every available hillside.
vironment that is safe and quiet. The ‘bush- KAINANTU take three hours; from Kainantu to Goroka Population pressures are pushing them to
material’ shower uses hot water from the Kainantu, the major town between Lae they cost K10 and take about two hours. even higher ground, threatening remain-
wood-fired heater, one of the sustainable tech- and Goroka, is strung along the highway at ing forests and bird of paradise habitats.
nologies being promoted. ATprojects provides 1600m and is an important cattle- and coffee- AROUND KAINANTU Most people in the province speak a similar
transport to and from Goroka and short-term producing area. In late 2007, the Kainantu Ukarumpa language – Simbu dialects make up PNG’s
volunteer opportunities for people wishing to Gold Mine was acquired by the world’s larg- Ukarumpa is the PNG headquarters of the second-largest language group.
participate in its rural development projects. est gold producer, Barrick Gold Corp, who American-founded Summer Institute of Simbus are said to be avid capitalists who
also brought exploration licenses for the sur- Linguistics (see boxed text, opposite). It’s in watch their coffee profits, and strong believ-
Crater Mountain Wildlife rounding 2900 sq km. the Aiyura Valley, about 30 minutes by PMV ers in payback – minor warfare is still com-
Management Area There’s a cultural centre (Highlands Hwy; h8am- from Kainantu and is worth visiting to see mon around Simbu and there’s a pervading
In the tri-border area, where the Eastern 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) with a small ‘little America’ in the midst of PNG. eye-for-an-eye ethos. Kundiawa has a painted
Highlands, Simbu and Gulf provincial bor- museum worth visiting. It sells traditional signboard at the police station that depicts a
ders meet, is the Crater Mountain Wildlife pottery, hand-woven rugs, silk-screen prints Yonki & the Upper Ramu Project tribal battle.
Management Area. This is one of the best and flutes. Yonki, 23km from Kainantu, is the support
places in PNG to experience the spectacular Kainantu Lodge (%737 1020; [email protected] town for the Upper Ramu hydroelectric KUNDIAWA
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
countryside, wildlife and village culture. .pg; s with shared facilities K100, s & d K140-240; is) project. Commissioned in 1979, the project Kundiawa was the site of the Highlands first
The area encompasses 2700 sq km, rang- is on a hill overlooking town. A 20-minute was financed by a K23 million World government station, but has been left behind
ing from lowland tropical rainforests on the walk from the PMV stop, the lodge is sign- Bank loan and powers Lae, Madang and by Goroka and Mt Hagen. Although it’s the
Purari River to alpine grasses on the slopes posted and a very nice place to stay with a the Highlands. provincial capital, Kundiawa is pretty small.
of Crater Mountain. You can hike between bar, à la carte restaurant (meals K30 to K40), There’s a bank, post office, limited shop-
ping, and that’s about it. Most people go
suitable for caving, close to Kundiawa, while ascent starts in the black of early morning so Sleeping Madang – but most people catch a PMV at
the Keu Caves are very close to the main road that climbers get to see the dawn and both East Kegsugl Guesthouse (per person K40) Across Brahmin. A relatively easy route goes through
near Chuave. The Nambaiyufa Amphitheatre, coasts before the clouds roll in. the road from the airstrip and next to the Pandambai and Bundikara to Bundi, where
near Chuave, has rock paintings. If the weather is fine, the climb takes three high school, this guesthouse is a great option. you’ll find bungalow accommodation at the
Kundiawa Hotel (%735 1399; fax 735 1103; r K198) or four days, but frequently the weather causes The hosts, Josephine and Arnold (Rambo to Mt Sinai Centre (p149). From Bundi the
doesn’t have much competition. It is a bit delays; take a book to read in the huts. The his friends) make guests feel welcome with route goes to the Brahmin Mission, from
run-down, although the tariff includes break- dry season (April to October) is the best time small touches such as strawberries from where a PMV to Madang costs K10 and
fast and dinner, free laundry and airport to climb and there are several ways to do it. their garden. There are three rooms with two takes 1½ hours. The whole route takes three
transfers. PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global beds in each and enough blankets to keep an or four days.
Haus Kai Bilong ol Meri is the best place for .net.pg; Goroka) and Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; Eskimo warm in a blizzard. Meals with home- The following can arrange a guide for
lunch – it has good food and a shady place to www.pngtours.com; Kongin St, Mt Hagen) can organise grown veggies are an extra K10. Guides can the walk:
sit. There is a small supermarket in Kundiawa guides, porters, equipment and food. Or it is also be arranged here – read the guest book Betty Higgins (Betty’s Place; %/fax 545 1567; betty_hig
and travellers recommend the bakery behind just as easy to hire your own guide in Kegsugl for recommendations. [email protected]; Kegsugl)
it for the cream buns. for K50 to K80. Porters are cheaper at K40 National Parks Board Huts (Lake Lodge; K50) PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; [email protected]
to K60. Halfway up Mt Wilhelm from Kegsugl are .pg; Goroka)
Getting There & Away If you’ve just come up from the coast, allow two fairly basic huts which are used to over- Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com;
AIR yourself time to acclimatise to the altitude night in. Bring your own sleeping bag (or bor- Kongin St, Mt Hagen)
The airport is quite spectacular, on a sloping before climbing to avoid altitude sickness row some blankets from the guesthouses in
ridge surrounded by mountains. Air Niugini (see p324). Kegsugl) and food. There is no electricity, but
(%735 1273) has flights to/from Port Moresby
(K420) on Tuesday and Saturday.
It can get very cold on the mountain (and
may even snow), and can easily become fog-
you can cook over the bottled-gas stove pro-
vided. Guides and porters stay free, although
WESTERN HIGHLANDS
PMV
bound. Sunburn and hypothermia are haz-
ards. You need sufficient food, equipment,
some in Kegsugl will tell you otherwise.
Betty’s Place (%/fax 545 1567; betty_higgins_lodges@
PROVINCE
There are PMVs to Goroka (K10, about two warm clothing, water containers (there’s yahoo.com; s with 2 meals K150) This lovely place, The capital of the Western Highlands, Mt
hours) and Mt Hagen (K10, about two hours). no water past the lakes), a torch, gloves and about 1km from Kegsugl and near the start Hagen stands at the frontier of a group of
The trip to Kegsugl (for Mt Wilhelm) takes candles. Cooking gear might be useful – check of the trail, is situated on a ridge with su- wild and undeveloped regions further to its
3½ hours and costs K30. PMVs for Kegsugl in Kegsugl whether there are still utensils at perb views out over the valley. Electricity is west. The people throughout the province
leave from the Shell station, others stop on the the lake huts. provided by generator and it’s surprisingly are fiercely proud, with strong tribal loyal-
highway near the police station. comfortable, with hot showers and amazing ties and complicated clan affiliations.
THE CLIMB surrounds. There’s a trout farm and commer- It wasn’t that many years ago that farm-
MT WILHELM There is a K10 charge levied by the local cial vegetable gardens, and the meals at Betty’s ers could be seen proudly strutting through
For many, climbing to the 4509m summit of landowner to climb the mountain. The climb are splendid. Betty can also arrange guides and Hagen’s market in traditional clothing. The
Mt Wilhelm is the highlight of a Highlands goes up to the Pindaunde Lakes from the high porters for your summit assault. If you are in- men favoured wide belts of beaten bark with
trip. On a clear day, you can see both the school and disused airstrip at Kegsugl. The terested in walking to Madang ask about her a drape of strings in front and a rear covered
north and south coasts of PNG. Even if you lakes sit at 3500m and the views are incredible. ‘Ramu Sky to Sea’ four-day trek (K1500 in- by a bunch of leaves attached to a belt (known
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
don’t intend to tackle the summit, the region The National Parks Board huts (see opposite) cluding guides and village accommodation). collectively as a tanket or arse gras). Women
around the base offers fantastic walking and are a four- to five-hour walk from Kegsugl. It wore string skirts and hung cuscus fur ‘scarfs’
dramatic landscapes. European fruits and veg- is customary to spend at least one night here Getting There & Away around their necks. Such attire is now re-
etables – including strawberries, cabbages, before tackling the summit the next morning. Kegsugl is 57km northeast from Kundiawa served for singsings and political rallies but
cauliflower and broccoli – grow year-round Some say it’s better to spend another day ac- along a razorback road that has to be seen to the proud swagger lives on. Singsings are still
in the constant spring conditions. climatising and exploring the area before the be believed. PMVs to Kegsugl (K30, 3½ hours) an integral part of life and a great opportunity
Niglguma and Gembogl, both traditional final push. leave Kundiawa from the Shell service station. to witness the Highlanders’ singular sense of
high-altitude villages, are worth visiting – you From the Pindaunde Lakes, it’s a long, hard If you leave Goroka or Mt Hagen early in the style – make every effort to see one.
can walk to Gembogl from Kegsugl in a couple walk to the summit – anything from five to morning, you can reach Pindaunde Lakes or The Wahgi Valley is one of the most pro-
of hours and, on the way, you pass through eight hours. It can get cold, wet, windy and at least Kegsugl in one day. There’s an airstrip ductive agricultural areas in the country and
half-a-dozen villages, including Niglguma. foggy at the top, so bring warm clothes and a at Kegsugl, although it regularly falls into dis- forests only remain on the steepest slopes,
change of socks as your legs will be wet from repair. It can only cater for smaller charter while the valleys and lower hills are grass-
Climbing the Mountain rain or just brushing past wet plants. Clouds aircraft such as the MAF fleet. land – bare from slash-and-burn cultivation.
PLANNING roll in after dawn so summit climbers start out Gardens and stands of casuarinas are scattered
While not technically difficult, this popular as early as 1am. The summit isn’t visible until WALKING TO MADANG through the hills and large coffee plantations
climb is hard work. Preparation is important you are only 30 minutes from it and, if you are You can walk to Madang from the Highlands, dominate the most fertile valley floors.
and the dangers should not be underestimated. to make it (most don’t), go slow! but it’s unwise to go without a guide. The The provinces topography seesaws be-
Climbers in this region have died. Don’t try to The descent back to the huts takes about turn-off for the Bundi road and the trek to tween the swamps in the lower Jimi Valley
climb the mountain on your own no matter four hours, but some people go all the way back Brahmin (and Madang) is between Gembogl (370m) and high peaks, including those of
how fit you are – a guide is essential. The final to Kegsugl, a further 3½ hours downhill. and Kegsugl. You can walk right down to Mt Hagen (3834m).
164 W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n 165
MT HAGEN Maps
Despite its environs, Mt Hagen is not nearly The phone directory has an excellent Mt INTERVIEW WITH A RASKOL Dean Starnes
as attractive as Goroka. It’s PNG’s third big- Hagen map in its front pages. The Department I hadn’t notice Alex until he was right in front me which, in itself, was kind of weird. For unlike
gest city, and lies 445km from Lae and 115km of Lands & Surveys (Kuri St) can supply town maps most men in these parts, Alex was a tall, thin and wiry Rastafarian. I had arrived in a deserted
from Goroka. ‘Hagen’, as it’s often called, was and some regional maps. market at a village too small to be marked on most maps by mistake, and, having missed the
a patrol station before WWII, and has boomed last PMV, I was stranded.
in the last 30 years as Enga and the Southern Information ‘Yu olraet? Yo go we?’
Highlands have opened up. Now it’s an unruly EMERGENCY ‘Nowhere,’ I replied. ‘I’m staying here the night – with the mosquitoes and raskols,’ and I
city with major squatter settlements and many Ambulance (%542 1166) grinned my best ‘I’m-really-tough-even-though-I-look-shit-scared’ grin.
itinerant people. As in Lae and Port Moresby, Fire (%542 1311/5) He handed me a cigarette. ‘The mosquitoes are on their way, and the raskols, well…’ And
Hagen’s streets are packed with people. Police (%542 1222; Kumniga St) that was how I met Alex, former raskol, all-round trouble maker and charming host. I didn’t tell
The city’s ambience can vary from the usual him that I didn’t smoke.
PNG relaxed vibe to periods of heavy tension INTERNET ACCESS Back at his house he told me how he had become a raskol; how he and other young men had
during elections or interclan disputes. Major hotels have internet access for about drifted to Lae, on to Moresby and into crime. His story could have been that of any number of
Mt Hagen’s main blocks are built around K30 per 30 minutes. disenfranchised youths from any number of cities around the world. Without jobs and without
three parallel streets: Moka Pl, Hagen Dr and Computer Shop (%542 1354; ground fl, Komkui Bldg, prospects, the allure of the bright lights and the chance of something better – more money, a
Wahgi Pde. Kuri St; per 15min K4.50) Snappy connections. car or even just a little excitement – proved too strong. He said he knew that he should have
returned to his village and his land, that a better life waited for him there, but he hadn’t. Instead
0 600 m he spent his days drinking, smoking and sometimes robbing. He told me how his gang would
MT HAGEN 0 0.4 miles
watch a business for days, finding patterns in their comings and goings, working out schedules,
A B C D figuring out who had money. He told me of his beatings at the hands of the police, of how
INFORMATION Mt Hagen Missionary Home....14 C3 TRANSPORT they struck your knees with sticks to break your legs, and he showed me his scars caused by
ANZ Bank..................................1 B3 Souths Home Guesthouse........15 C3 Air Niugini...............................(see 8) cigarette burns.
Bank South Pacific......................2 B3 Budget...................................(see 10)
1 Computer Shop..........................3 B3 EATING Hertz.....................................(see 12) However, becoming a raskol isn’t necessarily for life. Alex saw it as a young man’s game,
Department of Lands & Surveys..4 B3 Hagen Club..............................16 C3 PMVs to Airport, Kundiawa &
Mt Hagen Hospital....................5 C3 Goroka................................ 18 C2
almost as a lifestyle option you grew out of and he, along with the friends he had joined with,
Police Station..............................6 B3 SHOPPING PMVs to Baiyer River................19 B2
12
left to start families of their own.
Post Office.................................7 B3 Market.....................................17 C2 PMVs to Wabag, Mendi & Tari..20 B4
Westpac.....................................8 B3
y
s Hw To Goldline Lodge;
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
High
land
Hagen Airport Motel;
MEDICAL SERVICES unstable and unpredictable. During the day,
Paiya Tours.............................(see 13) Catholic
Trans Niugini Tours................... 9 D4 Church
Kujup Nazarene Hospital
Juma Lodge; Airport (11km);
There are several pharmacies in town. Mt Hagen is perfectly safe. Nobody hassles
Showgrounds (12km);
Goroka (115km)
Kujup Nazarene Hospital (%546 2341, 546 2228; or asks for money, but the town is thronged
SLEEPING
Highlander Hotel.....................10 A4 Kujup) Located 45 minutes east on the Highlands Hwy, Dr with security guards and dogs around banks
Hotel Poroman.........................11 A3 Jim Radcliff comes recommended by the local missionaries. and shops. Don’t approach the dogs –
Pl
2 Kimininga Lodge......................12 D1
a
ὈὈὈὈ
Mt Hagen Hospital (%542 1166; Kumniga Rd) The
ok
No St haus sik (hospital) borders Pope Paul’s Park near the town Walking the streets and exploring the shops
rth 19 anda
THE HIGHLANDS
Kup
THE HIGHLANDS
Rd
centre. is quite safe.
13 17 It’s not, however, safe at night and the
Ku
Munga
Ku
Dr 18
m
St
m
en
e
g 16
Rd
a
Pd
4 Ha
ANZ (%542 1622; Hagen Dr) Has an ATM lobby and pockets. Although the Highlands is a ‘dry’
Rd
6
gi
ah
St
Ku
1
W
Kumniga Creek Pl cashes travellers cheques for a low K3. region, home-brew alcohol is increasingly
ὈὈὈὈ
da
ri
a n
ok
St
Ku 14
Pl ri Bank South Pacific (%542 1877; Romba St) Changes a problem.
in
M 3 ibi
Pl
Kup
ka Da
Pl
11 ra 7
Woy travellers cheques for a K50 flat fee. It has an ATM lobby
Go
ne Pa 15
3
m
Rd 8 5
Tours
is
2
Pl
m
Rd Hagen
ba
ilim
p Plaza Ku Westpac (%542 1056; Romba St) One ATM and the The best parts of Mt Hagen are its surrounds,
St
Pa m
Pl Rd
shortest queues. Travellers cheques cashed for K10. and the Hagen-based tour companies and
na Park
Pe
local hotels offer half- and full-day tours.
Ke
ὈὈ
in
oy
Dr
Paiya Tours (%542 2137; [email protected];
or
Oku POST
ne
k n
R
ge Pope Paul's
d
Rd
Ha Post office (%542 1270; Paraka Pl) Moka Pl) Locally run from the Lutheran Guesthouse (p132).
H
10 Park
w
ji Aside from raskols (bandits), tribal war- operation (locally owned) that offers tours to remote rural
Ko
Kuta
an
4 Nin
da
ng
St
Creek 9
ima
Ker land disputes, pigs or gardens. Clan warfare expeditions.
never embroils outsiders, confining itself Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; Kongin St; www
Rd St
Ragaba to the protagonists, but it can make things .pngtours.com) One of the main inbound tour companies
166 W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M t H a g e n 167
in PNG, organising tours and activities across the country. facilities (additional charge) and the pretty 9.20pm) offers delectable delicacies such as There are artefacts for sale at the Hotel
It’s well organised, professional and rather expensive. grounds have pleasant views. There is a local Mt Wilhelm trout and triple-stacked pan- Poroman gift shop and outside the show-
Its packages include meals and activities and guests are bus stop at the betel nut market nearby. cakes. An Asian style buffet (K40) is served grounds during the Mt Hagen Show.
ferried to its six eco-lodges by private aircraft and stay Lutheran Guesthouse (%542 2137; paiyatours@datec every Saturday.
in absolute luxury. The lodges are Tari’s Ambua Lodge .net.pg, Moka Pl; s/d/f K70/80/100) Right in the middle Rondon Ridge (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com; Getting There & Around
(p174); the Sepik’s Karawari Lodge (p199) and its boat of town, this is a good option. The rooms are per person all-inclusive s/d US$499/402) Rondon AIR
the Sepik Spirit (p193); Malolo Plantation Lodge (p148) quite old but all are self-contained. There is a Ridge is the newest of Trans Niugini Tours’ The airport is at Kagamuga, about 10km
north of Madang; Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (p208) in laundry and the meals (breakfast K10, dinner luxury lodges, located at 2164m on Kum from town. Minibuses frequently run from
the Western Province; and Mt Hagen’s very own Rondon K25) include a soft drink. Paiya Tours (p165) Mountain, 13km southeast from Hagen. the small market next to the airport to the
Ridge (opposite). operate from here. There are magnificent views of the Hagen main market in town (K1). For an additional
Mt Hagen Missionary Home (%542 1041; mhmh@ Range and the Wahgi Valley from each of K1 the driver will often drop you at your hotel.
Festivals & Events daltron.com.pg, Kumniga Rd; s incl breakfast K77) The pick the 12 units. Up here it’s comfort all the Major hotels provide transfers.
It’s not as big as the Goroka Show, but the Mt of the budget bunch. Each room has four bunk way – modern bathrooms, electric blankets, Air Niugini (%542 1039; Romba St) has flights
Hagen Show (general admission K4, adult 2-day pass K300) beds and its own bathroom. It’s friendly, se- continental quilts and a cosy fireplace in the twice daily to Port Moresby (K498) while
is definitely a must-see. It’s held annually, cure, very clean and central. For an additional common lounge. Airlines PNG (%545 1407, 542 1039; [email protected];
on the third weekend of August. The cheap K17 you’ll get a hearty dinner. Airport trans- Hagen Club (%542 1537; Kum Rd; mains K28-40; airport) have flights that connect Mt Hagen to
‘general admission’ won’t allow you access to fers are K20 per group. h 11am-2pm & 5pm-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9.30pm Port Moresby (K498) and Lae (K300) every
the singsing groups until 11am, and then, only Hotel Poroman (%542 3558; www.hausporoman Sat) Serves cold beer and good pub-style day but Sunday. There are also Airlines PNG
from the surrounding banks. .com.pg; Moka Pl; s K125-225, d K135-260, tr K182-286; i) light meals during lunch, and cold beer and flights on Monday and Saturday to Tabubil
The two-day pass allows you to arrive The price ranges here reflect the various room European dishes during dinner. The Mt (K640) and Kiunga (K624), and flights south
early (around 8am) and see the groups options – budget, standard and deluxe. There Hagen Ball is held here to coincide with the to Moro (K400), Kikori (K385), Kerema
dressing and donning their feathered head- isn’t a hell of a lot of difference between the show. Bring your tux, dancing shoes and (K541) and Daru (K1380).
dresses. Vigorous impromptu performances budget and standard rooms other than the see the manager for a ticket (double K250, MAF (%545 1477; [email protected]; airport)
at this time can often be more powerful, number of TV channels. There’s a bar and including dinner). offers interesting connections from Mt Hagen
even ribald, compared with the formal stuff excellent restaurant (meals K20 to K40, open During the Mt Hagen Show, accommo- to all sorts of remote destinations includ-
dished up in the arena. Contrary to what 7am to 9am, 11am to 2pm, and 5pm to 9pm), dation can be scarce and the following ho- ing Tari (K300, Thursday), Wewak (K390,
you might be fearful of, there’s no general and tariffs include airport transfers. tels may be your only option, however they Monday) and Simbai (K210, Friday).
bird of paradise slaughter just before show Kimininga Lodge (%542 2399; www.wampnga.com aren’t the best in town. Those with bars often
time – the feather headdresses and cos- .pg/kimininga; Highlands Hwy; s K170-210, d K200-240) get unruly. CAR
tumes are extremely valuable and rarefied Run by the local government, Kimininga Goldline Lodge (%542 3333; fax 542 1883; Highlands There is one taxi in Mt Hagen – City Cab (%542
heirlooms. Lodge is towards the airport and comfort- Hwy; s/d incl breakfast K110/185) On the way to the 3013, 690 4431).
The performers are happy to pose for able, if a little plain. In addition to the 37 self- airport. This hotel has a restaurant and bar with pokies. Avis (%545 1350; fax 545 1525; airport) Hires a double-
photographs (they don’t charge) but at times contained rooms there is an apartment The more expensive self-contained rooms are comfortable, cab Hilux for K215 per day plus K1 per kilometre.
it feels like a photographic free-for-all. There capable of sleeping four. Airport and town with TV and minibar. Budget (%542 1818; [email protected];
are some quality artefacts on sale outside transfers are included in the price. There’s a Juma Lodge (%545 1310; fax 545 1368; Highlands Highlander Hotel)
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
the showgrounds and mild bartering here licensed restaurant (meals K15 to K35, open Hwy; s K55, d K77-110) Rooms here are large, tired and Hertz (trading as Eagle Hire; %542 3544) Based at the
won’t offend local sensibilities. Locals pre- 6pm to 10pm) that serves pizza and Indian, hungover – much like the clientele. Kimininga Lodge (opposite).
fer the live bands and contemporary music and a Friday-night buffet. Souths Home Guesthouse (%542 2338; Kumniga Rd;
on stage in a natural bowl just outside the Hagen Airport Motel (%545 1647; mmakap@online s/d K60/80) Central and popular with drunks, the shared PMV
showgrounds – follow your ears and watch .net.pg; Highlands Hwy; s & d K172) This motel, near the showers are filthy and the mattresses thin and tired. Roads heading west from Mt Hagen towards
your camera in the crowds. airport, has 20 rooms all with en suite and TV. Mendi and Wabag have been prone to am-
Tickets can be brought from Trans It’s clean and friendly although nothing out Shopping bushes in the past and it is worth seeking
Niugini Tours (p165) and major hotels prior of the ordinary. The restaurant (meals K25 to The Hagen market is one of PNG’s biggest advice from your place of accommodation
to the show. K40) and hotel are ‘alcohol-free zones’. You and most varied (Saturday is the big day). before jumping on a west-bound PMV to
can grab a lift on its truck, which travels into It’s the best place to buy bilums and Highland Mendi (K15, 3½ hours) or Wabag (K15,
Sleeping & Eating town daily. hats. There’s also a vast range of fresh produce four hours). The asphalt disintegrates into
Mt Hagen has lots of places to stay suitable Highlander Hotel (%542 1355; highlanderhotel@coral on sale and if you’re lucky you may also see metal and then dirt, before it is resurrected
for all budgets. Keep in mind that air-con is seahotels.com.pg; Okuk Hwy; s & d K253-462; ais) cuscus, pigs and birds trussed up on poles or 45 minutes before Mendi. It is possible to
not imperative in this cooler climate. Eating The Highlander, part of the Coral Sea chain, in enclosures. reach Tari (K45, 11 hours) in one day if you
options are largely confined to the hotels has all the amenities you’d expect from a first- It’s busy each day and thieves work the start early.
and guesthouses. class hotel, including pool-side restaurants, crowd. They’re mostly kids working in tan- In the other direction there are buses to
New Town Lodge (%542 2872; Highlands Hwy; s K55- bars, tennis and volleyball courts and 24-hour dem – one might distract you while another Kundiawa (K10, two hours) and Goroka
75) Slightly out of town towards Mendi; about foreign-exchange desk. The 60 rooms are self- snatches a bag or wallet. The atmosphere in (K20, four hours).
1km past the Highlander Hotel. There are contained and a little soulless. The Palmuri the market can be edgy, and the best way to PMVs going east, to Kundiawa and
large, self-contained rooms, shared kitchen Restaurant (meals K35 to K50, open 6pm to make friends is to buy stuff. Goroka, leave from the market. PMVs going
168 E N G A P R O V I N C E • • W a b a g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E 169
west, to Wabag, Mendi and Tari, leave from Porgera, the giant gold and copper mine in Dae Won Wabag Hotel (%547 1140; fax 547 1033; and offers guided walks up the mountain
the highway near the Dunlop building. the far west, has brought about rapid change Highlands Hwy; s K124-180, d K124-240) Wabag’s only for birders, and to nearby caves. There are
for some, but most people still grow cash formal hotel. It’s on the Mt Hagen side of transfers from Hagen (K65) or Wabag (K78).
crops – coffee, pyrethrum and cool-weather town and there’s a communal lounge area and The restaurant (meals K20 to K38, open for
WAHGI VALLEY European vegetables – in their steep mountain kitchen, as well as a restaurant. breakfast, lunch and dinner) serves steak,
Thirty thousand years ago, the Wahgi Valley gardens. Porgera is all but spent, but other chicken and fish dishes.
had some of the most advanced farming nearby mineral finds mean that the mining Getting There & Away
practices, and social and political organisa- town will be there a long while yet. AIR
tions on earth. Today, descendants of those
early farmers still rely on technologies de-
As late as 1960s, Enga was still largely in-
dependent of government control and tribal
Although the Wabag airstrip is closed, Air
Niugini (%547 1274) flies to Wapenamenda (an
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS
veloped by their forefathers. If you are in-
terested in why, despite their apparent head
warfare still occurs today (see boxed text,
p153). Engans are well respected for their
hour’s drive away on the highway towards
Mt Hagen via PMV) from Port Moresby on
PROVINCE
start, the farmers of the Wahgi Valley don’t diplomacy and skill in the art of negotiation, Tuesday and Thursday for K412. Southern Highlands Province is made up
rule the world read Jared Diamond’s criti- but the provincial government also has the of lush, high valleys between towering
cally acclaimed Guns, Germs and Steel that dubious distinction of having had its power PMV limestone peaks. This region is particularly
untangles the thorny issues (none of them suspended three times by the national gov- PMVs travel between Mt Hagen and Wabag beautiful and traditional cultures thrive,
race related) that enabled only some cul- ernment due to concerns over corruption (K20, four hours). The road to Porgera and the especially in the Tari Basin where many
tures to produce mighty civilisations. There and accountability. mine is in good service, but PMVs rarely go people retain their traditional ways and
are numerous references to these Highland Alcohol is prohibited in Enga and can’t there. A few PMVs go to Mendi via Laiagam whose men are famous for their intricately
farmers throughout the book. even be bought in hotels. Vehicles com- and Kandep over a very rough road with fre- decorated wigs (p173). The headwaters of
Wamol village is a great place to experience ing from Mt Hagen are often stopped quently washed-out bridges. some mighty rivers, including the Kikori,
an age-old way of life. Here you can see the and searched by police for alcohol and Erave and Strickland, cross the province
pig and cassowary huts, the sugar-cane gar- firearms. AROUND WABAG and Mt Giluwe (4368m), the second-highest
dens and witness karim leg – a traditional Kaip Village mountain in PNG, sits on the province’s
courtship song of the Wamol people. The WABAG High in the hills behind Wabag is the spectac- northeastern border.
only place to stay is at the Wahgi Guesthouse People tend to sit around a lot in Wabag – ular Kaip Village Lifestyle Model (%542 1303), with The most remote province of the
(%689 39543; per person K60; meals K15-20), 1½ hours outside houses, by the road, wherever. Life villages and gardens on steep slopes that seem Highlands, the Southern Highlands is still
east from Mt Hagen; contact Lawrence in general is slow in PNG but it is even suitable only for mountain goats. Villagers relatively undeveloped, although the estab-
Walep. The guesthouse is built on a ridge slower in Wabag. The stores have all the offer singsing performances and cultural treks lishment of oilfields near Lake Kutubu and
and is (all things considered) rather comfort- main necessities, but the cost of transport around their village and gardens. The road an alluvial gold mine at Mt Kare are rapidly
able, although the toilets are of the pit vari- makes things a little expensive. to Kaip is in bad shape but hardy PMVs still opening up the region.
ety and the shower is courtesy of a bucket. The town itself has little to attract tour- travel here from Wabag. In pre-European times the province was
From Hagen catch a PMV to Wahgi ists, except a cultural centre and the mighty Kaiap Orchid Lodge (%547 1281) was once a fan- at the end of the trade route from the Gulf
Bridge Junction (K6, one hour) and change Lai River barrelling through town, but the tastic place, positioned on a razorback ridge, of Papua into the Highlands.
to a Nondugul Station–bound PMV but get hills around Wabag are stunning – jagged but is now very run down and often closed. The Mendi area is the most developed re-
off at Wamol (K5, 30 minutes). From here
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
mountains, gushing rivers and picturesque gion of the Southern Highlands (although
it is a 20-minute walk. Alternatively phone villages nestled in the mountains. Laiagam & Rau Tari has more attractions and services
the guesthouse for transport. At the large cultural centre (% 547 1128; Laiagam has a botanic garden with a huge range for travellers), but it was not explored by
h8am-4pm theoretically), art gallery, museum of orchids and a research centre. Lake Rau is a Europeans until 1935. It was 1950 when
and workshop, you’ll see young artists mak- crater lake at nearly 3000m in Enga Province’s the first airstrip was constructed and 1952
ENGA PROVINCE ing sand paintings – the principal work on
display. The museum has shields, wigs and
centre. It’s a day’s walk from Pumas, above
Laiagam, and you will need a guide, which
before tribal warfare was prohibited. The
Mendi tribes then focused their attention
Enga is the highest and most rugged masks from many parts of PNG, including you can arrange in Mt Hagen. on attacking government patrols and were
of all PNG’s provinces, and even other Enga Province. still fighting them in the mid-1950s. The
Highlanders refer to Engans as ‘mountain The annual Enga Festival, a smaller version Kumul Lodge ‘discovery’ of the beautiful Lavani Valley
people’. The provincial capital of Wabag is of the Mt Hagen and Goroka Shows, is held Located 40 minutes from Mt Hagen, and in 1954 triggered newspaper journalists to
more of an outlying town to Mt Hagen than in August at the sports ground. closer to Hagen or Wapenamenda airstrip write elaborate stories about the discovery
a major centre. The two other main centres Wabag’s water and electricity supplies are than to Wabag, Kumul Lodge (%542 1615; www of a lost Shangri-la.
are Wapenamanda and Laiagam. erratic. .kumullodge.com.pg; s K140-165, d K145-185) is geared The limestone hills and high rainfall
Enga is unique in that it has only one towards bird-watchers, and you can see birds are ideal for the formation of caves. Some
major linguistic and ethnic group, and the Sleeping of paradise in the grounds of the lodge. The caves of enormous depth and length have
shared ethnicity of the Enga speakers over- Wabag Guesthouse (%547 1210; s/d K100/130) The bungalows, built from bush materials, are already been explored and it is a distinct
shadows the province’s minority tribes such guesthouse has several single and double comfortable, self-contained and have large possibility that some of the deepest caves
as the Ipili speakers (around Porgera) and rooms with shared facilities. The kitchen is windows and balconies overlooking the sur- in the world are still awaiting discovery in
Nete speakers. clean and well equipped. rounding forest. It’s at the base of Mt Hagen this region.
170 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • M e n d i lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • I a l i b u 171
weapons. Mendi dolls make a good buy, al- their own, but the staff and local guests are
SOUTHERN HIGHLANDS CULTURE though they are now rarely in the traditional genuinely friendly.
The Huli are one of the biggest clans and their homelands are among PNG’s most remote and designs, which had religious significance. UCWF Guesthouse (%549 1062; s/tw K40/80) The
undeveloped regions. Most Huli have had little more than a single generation of contact with United Church Women’s Fellowship has a
the outside world. Though not typical of all Highlanders, the Huli make an interesting case study Information guesthouse 30 minutes’ walk from town. The
(for more information, see p173). Mendi’s police station (%549 1333) and post of- twin room has an attached bathroom. To get
fice (%549 1016) are in the middle of town. there, walk out onto the old Mt Hagen road
Black Brides The Mendi Hospital (%549 1166) and Bank South past Mendi Motors, take the left fork after the
Mendi brides wear black for their wedding – they’re rubbed down in black tigaso tree oil and Pacific have both recently re-opened due to bridge, pass the turn-off to the large Menduli
soot, and they wear this body colouring for a month after the wedding. The tigaso tree oil is the town’s relative tranquillity. There are a Trade Store and it’s further up the hill on your
very valuable. It comes from Lake Kutubu and is traded all over the area. During this time neither number of good kai bars and stores in town, right, near the hospital.
bride nor groom work, nor is the marriage consummated. This gives the bride time to become although no large supermarkets. Kiburu Lodge (%549 1077; fax 549 1350; r K110-220)
acquainted with her husband’s family and for the groom to learn ‘anti-woman’ spells to protect Kiburu, the pick of the Mendi bunch, is a few
himself from his wife. Sleeping & Eating kilometres south of town on the Highlands
Throughout the Highlands, women are traditionally distrusted by men, who go to extraordinary The most visible place to stay is the large, sky- Hwy, just beyond the turn-off into Mendi.
lengths to protect themselves and maintain their status. Sexual relations are not undertaken blue hotel, and in previous reincarnations this It has six chalets with 12 rooms in a quasi-
lightly – contact with women is believed to cause sickness and men usually live in separate was the place to stay in Mendi. Unfortunately traditional style set in pleasant grounds sur-
houses and prefer to cook their own food. Boys can be removed from their mothers’ houses at it now attracts an unsavoury crowd who like rounding a large, hand-dug, waterlily-filled
a very young age. Women travellers should bear these customs in mind because in many places to drink, fight and piss in the hallways (al- pond. The staff can contact Frank Pape who
they are still strictly upheld. though not necessarily in that order) and we guides trips to see local avian fauna and the
recommend you try elsewhere. nearby caves. The octagonal restaurant (set
Blue Widows Pentecostal Guesthouse (%549 1651, 692 6778; s meals K20 to K35, snacks K7.50; open 6.30am
A dead man’s wife, daughters, mother, sisters and sisters-in-law coat themselves with bluish-grey K20) There are five twin rooms and a five-bed to 9.30am, 11.30am to 1.30pm, and 6.30pm to
clay while in mourning. The wife carries vast numbers of strings of the seeds known as ‘Job’s tears’. bunk room in the Pentecostal Guesthouse, 9.30pm) encompasses a pot-bellied stove.
One string a day is removed until eventually, with the removal of the last string, the widow can not far from the airport. The rooms are small
wash herself of her clay coating and remarry – about nine months after her husband’s death. but clean and there are cooking facilities and Getting There & Away
solar-heated hot showers. AIR
Long Houses Kubula Guesthouse (% 549 1114; s/d K40/80, The Mendi airstrip is often unserviceable,
Long houses, known as haus lains, are built along the sides of Mendi ceremonial grounds and kitchen use K5) Opposite the post office and up mostly in the mornings, because of fog. Air
used as guesthouses at singsings and pig kills. They can be up to 150m long, although 70m is the stairs behind a small trade store, this Niugini (%549 1233) has three flights a week
the usual length, and they are built beside stone-filled pits where the pigs are cooked. place is rather dirty. The bed sheets are to/from Port Moresby (K630).
close to getting up and walking around on South West Air (%549 1065; [email protected])
is principally a charter-only company but it
Dangers & Annoyances Tari is much quieter and the resorts there does have occasional spare seats on its Port
Historically the Southern Highlands were are secure and safe. MOGAS Moresby flights.
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
beset with lawlessness and tribal fighting. The most vivid demonstrations of wealth
Mendi’s hospital closed, the banks pulled MENDI and status are the moga ceremonies near PMV
out and it was easy to fall prey to the sensa- Despite being the provincial capital, Mendi Mendi (tee ceremonies in Enga Province). PMV trucks and buses run back and forth be-
tionalist stories that the international media is a relatively small town, built around an Mogas are movable feasts – during some, tween Mt Hagen and Mendi (K15, 3½ hours)
love so much. airport. It shelters in a long green valley, sur- hundreds of pigs are slaughtered and with reasonable regularity. The buses are more
These days many of the clans have sorted rounded by beautiful limestone peaks. There cooked. Each clan attempts to surpass its comfortable than the trucks. The road to Tari
out their differences and the region is enjoy- is not much to keep you hanging around in neighbours by feasting on as many pigs goes via Nipa and is a spectacular six- to eight-
ing relative security. Nonetheless, because the Mendi – it’s really just the starting point for a as possible. A big pig is worth K500 to hour drive (K25). There’s a road to Pimaga
area is unpredictable and potentially danger- trip into the Tari Basin or Lake Kutubu. K1000. and on to Moro.
ous it would be foolhardy to rely solely on any Mendi isn’t as volatile as it was a few years These ceremonies flow from village to When the Southern Highlands Gulf
advice given here; instead we recommend that back and recently, even during the 2007 village, with one group displaying its wealth Highway opens in 2008, it is reasonable to
you ask the locals about the current status quo elections, it has been relatively well behaved. and handing the moga ceremony on to the expect that PMVs will connect Mendi with
and be prepared to curtail your travel plans if Nonetheless the general vibe is that it’s only next village. Even enemies are invited. Kikori.
the situation warrants it. a few stiff drinks away from sliding back to There are ceremonial grounds where these
The road between Nipa and Tari is par- its warring ways. If a war is on, it will most feasts are held along the road past Mendi – IALIBU
ticularly volatile as the Nipa villagers are likely be fought near town (at the fields at the fenced quadrangles, sometimes covering Halfway between Mendi and Mt Hagen,
still nursing a grudge and vowed vengeance end of the runway) and be confined to the half a hectare, surrounded by long houses Ialibu is the home of the Imbong’gu peo-
for the fatal car crash that killed their 2002 aggrieved parties. (guest quarters) and long pits in straight ple who, like the Huli, also wear wigs. It
election-winning politician. Witchcraft There’s an artefacts shop near Mendi Motors lines filled with cooking stones. is a major area for the production of sawn
was suspected. that sells hand-loomed products, baskets and timber, and basket-making is a common
172 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • L a k e K u t u b u Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • Ta r i 173
village industry. Nearby is Mt Ialibu (3465m). in Inu, this is your only option. It also helps
The local people have built a cultural centre with boats across to Tubo. A GREAT HAIR DAY
and museum made of river stones and local Tubo Eco-Tourism Lodge (%327 3286; s K60) Tubo The Huli are the largest ethnic group in the Southern Highlands, with a population of around
timber, with exposed posts and beams, and is based on a peninsula – access is by canoe 55,000 and territory exceeding 2500 sq km. Huli don’t live in villages, but in scattered homesteads
woven walls. There are good walking trails and a 300-step climb. It’s community owned dispersed through immaculately and intensively cultivated valleys. The gardens are delineated
nearby and the Catholic Mission station runs and run, built from bush materials and affords by trenches and mud walls up to 3m high, broken by brightly painted gateways made of stakes.
a guesthouse. commanding views across the magnificent These trenches mark boundaries, control the movement of pigs and also hide troops of warriors
lake. The grounds have butterflies, orchids in times of war. As usual, the women do most of the work, while men concentrate on displaying
LAKE KUTUBU and birds of paradise. The remoteness of the their finery, plotting war and growing their hair.
The Lake Kutubu area has one of just five area adds to the experience but makes it dif- Traditional Huli culture is highly developed and strikingly executed in dress and personal
national parks in PNG. According to legend, ficult, if not impossible, to contact. decoration. Huli men wear decorative woven wigs of human hair. The hair is the wigman’s own,
the lake was formed when a fig tree was cut grown over many months by unmarried men living together in isolation from the rest of their
down by a woman looking for water. The story Getting There & Away community. Under the tutelage and guidance of a master wigman, spells are cast, diets are
goes that whatever the tree touched turned to In addition to the occasional MAF flight, proscribed and rituals adhered to – all to ensure a healthy head of hair. Many Huli wigmen have
water – hence the lake. Airlines PNG flies into Moro three times a more than one wig, but all wigs must be grown before the man marries. Designs are indicative
The lake is beautiful, and the surrounding week (K400) from Mt Hagen. Otherwise catch of a wigman’s tribe. The Huli cultivate yellow, everlasting daisies that are used to decorate their
country is home to friendly people living a a Moro-bound PMV from Mendi and get wigs; they also use feathers and cuscus fur for decoration.
largely traditional life. Butterflies and birds of dropped off at Tubaka village as Moro itself The Huli men wear a band of snakeskin across the forehead, and usually a cassowary quill
paradise are common. You can swim in the is an hour’s walk from the west end of Lake through the nasal septa. Their faces are decorated with yellow and red ochre. Kina shells are worn
lake – women should wear a laplap (sarong) – Kutubu. Ask locals to direct you to Inu High around the neck, a decorative belt and bilum cloth cover the privates, and the is rear covered by
and visit local villages where people still live School and ask around here for a boat to the a bunch of leaves attached to a belt (known collectively as a tanket or arse gras).
in sex-segregated buildings. lodge. It is also possible to catch boats to the
It is also possible to visit the skull caves of lodge from the village below Tugiri crossing.
Bebere and Kosame, where traditional burial If you plan to walk into the Lake Kutubu to six days. The down side is that you’ll have display are for sale. The place is a sort of old
rites are still observed. Custom dictates that region, take a guide such as those provided by to charter a MAF flight to get there. men’s home and a couple of older fellows
the bodies of dead relatives are placed into the Trans Niugini Tours (%542 1438; Mt Hagen) or Steven show you around and accept your donation.
hull of a canoe and interred in a cave until the Wari (%691 2063; Tari). TARI The covered structure in the compound is
flesh has rotted from the bones. The skeletons Tari is one of the few towns in PNG where the grave of a former provincial premier, and
are then removed, cleaned and displayed on KANTOBO some people still wear traditional dress, and you’ll see similar (but usually smaller) struc-
the walls of the caves. Kantobo village is on the banks of the Mubi the Huli wigmen (above) and their distinc- tures all around the Tari area.
Kutubu is the Highlands’ second-largest River, near the eastern end of Lake Kutubu. tive clothing are a must see. Most of the wig The Tari Basin and the Tari Gap are world
lake, and, at 800m above sea level, PNG’s It is home to the Muti clan of the Foimeana schools are some distance from the town it- renowned birding spots, and because the al-
highest substantial body of water (although people. This is virgin rainforest, rich in bird self and difficult to find, so you will need to titude ranges from 1700m to 2800m through
the Mt Wilhelm crater lakes are higher). It and animal life. A 700-hectare wildlife man- organise transport with your guesthouse or a variety of habitats there is a high diversity
has a remarkable level of fish endemicity – 10 agement area has been created around the join a tour. Often some of the bachelor boys of species. Tari is a particularly blessed with
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
of the 14 species of fish are found only in nearby Wasi Falls with the help of the WWF. supplement their income by travelling to town birds of paradise including the King of Saxony
this lake. Wasi Falls is the local name for a series of to demonstrate how they grow and care for and the Blue bird of paradise. Sir David
The big oil project near Lake Kutubu has waterfalls that includes the Bisi Falls, the larg- their hair. Attenborough visited the area when making
changed the Mendi area, and local people est in PNG, which plummet over 100m into a Before photographing anyone, traditionally his documentary Attenborough in Paradise
are used to dealing with oil workers with fat limestone basin. Also in the management area dressed or not, ask permission. Locals are (1996) and really put the place on the maps
wallets and expense accounts. Prices asked are the Maskimu Falls and Geagosusu Falls. usually happy to be snapped and do not ask of twitchers.
to cross a bridge or walk across land can There are many caves in this area, including for payment (although this doesn’t apply to The best of the birds can be seen between
be outrageous. some that were used for ancient burials, and the wigmen). Still, make your thanks known July and October when their plumage is at
Oil began flowing through the pipeline some with a unique blind cave-fish species. and if you offer to send copies of the pictures, its zenith.
down to the Gulf of Papua in 1992. Chevron do. The main market day is Saturday and this
Niugini has a good reputation, fulfilling its MT BOSAVI is a particularly good time to meet locals in Tours
agreements with the local landowners, the This area has only recently been visited by their finery. Ambua Lodge (p174) and Warili Lodge
Foi and Fasu people. There’s a road from a few intrepid travellers. You need to take a The town itself is little more than an airfield (p174) run tours into the surrounding coun-
Mendi to Pimaga and on to Moro and the guide, and be prepared to sleep in long houses and a handful of buildings. There is a post of- tryside, although Ambua Lodge does not
company headquarters near the northwest (both men and women) with up to 60 other fice, police station (%540 8022), a few large but really cater to casual drop-ins.
end of Lake Kutubu. people, eating sago, insects and other rain- basic stores and a hospital. Birding tours take in the Tari Gap from
forest food. Steven Wari from Warili Lodge the road and a few trails in the rainforest.
Sleeping (p174) has contacts in this area and can or- Sights & Activities Depending on which trees you visit, local
Inu Sawmill Guesthouse (contact Bai Waiba, Bais Camp, ganise a guide, and advises us that it would be There’s a tiny museum in a stockaded com- landowners will expect K20 to K30 compen-
Inu Sawmill; s K15) If you are forced to overnight possible to walk to a number of villages in four pound and most of the items in the small sation per site. Guides cost between K30 and
© Lonely Planet Publications
174 S O U T H E R N H I G H L A N D S P R O V I N C E • • K o p i a g o t o O k s a p m i n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels www.lonelyplanet.com 175
K80, and vehicle hire can be anything from have a great 180-degree view and are sur-
K350 to K500 per day. rounded by flower gardens with a backdrop of
Cultural tours are far more varied and de- mossy forest. Grand opulence in such rugged
pend largely on your budget and what you circumstances is certainly impressive. Ambua
want to see. Besides visiting the wigmen, tours is beyond the means of many travellers and
may include visits to the widow village, sing- most guests come as part of a Trans Niugini
sings, spirit and sun dances, and initiation and package on its private plane.
courtship ceremony re-enactments. Warili Other guesthouses in the area include
Lodge charges K100 for one to three people Lakwanda Lodge, an hour past Tari and acces-
plus car hire. A mumu (feast cooked in under- sible by PMV and Karida Guesthouse, a five-
ground pit) costs K300 and includes the pig. hour walk from the Tokia bridge junction.
Since clan warfare subsided in 2006, these
Sleeping & Eating areas surrounding Tari are now safe to visit
Despite the small size of the town, the Tari although it would be prudent to check first.
area boasts some excellent accommodation.
Tari Women’s Guesthouse (contact Jacinta Haiyape, Getting There & Away
PO Box 81, Tari; dm K20) Near the airport, this lo- AIR
cally run guesthouse offers spartan rooms, Air Niugini (%540 8023) flies from Port Moresby
each with four bunk beds. Men are welcome to Tari on Monday, Friday and Sunday. MAF
and while meals aren’t provided, there are (%540 8014) has Thursday flights to Tabubil
shared cooking facilities. The manager can (K440), Kiunga (KK410), Telefomin (K350)
also give you directions to other women’s and Mt Hagen (K300). If telephone lines © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
guesthouses in the area, including ones at are down in Tari, book through its Mt
Hoiyabia, Paikela and Tigibi. Hagen office.
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Parakua Adventure Lodge (%686 7891; s/d K30/50) only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
This guesthouse is a 30-minute walk uphill PMV everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
from the police station, and is owned by the PMVs leave Tari from the market early each
manager of the small, green store you pass on morning (excluding Sunday) and pass Warili
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
the way up. Each room has a couple of beds Lodge on their way to Mt Hagen (K45, 11
and little else. Bring all your own food. hours) via Mendi (K25, six hours). PMVs also
Warili Lodge (%691 2063; www.papua-warili-lodge run from Tari to Koroba for around K10.
.com; PO Box 159, Tari; per person K60) This lodge is
an excellent place to stay, with comfortable KOPIAGO TO OKSAPMIN
rooms made from bush materials. The three- From Lake Kopiago, you can walk to
course dinners (K25) are delicious, and served Oksapmin in West Sepik Province in four
THE HIGHLANDS
THE HIGHLANDS
in a large, thatched room with an atmospheric or five days. There’s no official guesthouse
open fire. The lodge is a 45-minute drive from at Kopiago but it would be worth asking
the town and owner Steven usually collects his at the Catholic Church, 1km from the air-
guests if he knows they are coming. If arriv- strip. A further 3km on from the Kopiago
ing by PMV, jump out when you see his sign. station is the Apostolic Church run by
Tours are also offered. Pastor Hagini who may also be able to help
Ambua Lodge (%542 1438; www.pngtours.com; per with accommodation.
person all-inclusive s/tw US$499/402) The showpiece Talk to MAF (%545 1477) in Mt Hagen for
of the Trans Niugini Tours operation, the possible flights, or catch a PMV from Tari
lodge offers commanding views across the to Koroba (K10) from where it’s only a
Tari Basin and Huli homelands. In 2001 it day’s walk.
was listed as one of the 10 best eco-tourism Kopiago to Oksapmin is a hard and po-
facilities worldwide by National Geographic tentially dangerous walk, so don’t under-
Adventure magazine. At 2100m, the lodge take it unless you are pretty fit and you’ve
enjoys a refreshing mountain climate and hired a guide. If you are really keen, you can
attracts many bird-watchers and orchid en- continue walking to Tekin, Bak, Bimin and
thusiasts. Guests are accommodated in indi- down to Olsobip in Western Province, or
vidual, luxury, bush-material huts. The huts to Telefomin.
© Lonely Planet Publications
175
The Sepik
The mighty Sepik is one of the great rivers of the world, in serpentine fashion it flows for
1126km through a largely undisturbed environment of swamplands, tropical rainforests
and mountains. However, the Sepik is more than just a river – it’s also a densely populated
repository of complex cultures, dying languages and the most potent art in the Pacific.
As you motor around one of the endless river bends, the scale of the river, the towering
façades of the haus tambarans (spirit houses), the splash of a crocodile as it slithers into the
water, the bird life, the eerie lagoons and the beautiful stilt villages make it all too easy to
believe that you’ve travelled clean out of the 21st century and straight into an adventure.
Despite the erosion of some cultural values and the trappings of Western influence, life
continues in much the same way as it has for centuries. Local populations are clustered
into different language groups and clans. There are still virtually no roads in the region and
the river still carries all the traffic – from naked children poling dugout canoes to sunburnt
tourists in their luxurious yachts.
The Sepik region also takes in the sleepy provincial capitals of Wewak and Vanimo, two
beachside towns that boast vast stretches of white sand, excellent diving and seasonal surf.
Untouched coastal islands such as that of Muschu off the coast of Wewak are only now
seeing a trickle of tourists.
This chapter first looks at the two provinces through which the river flows and later, the
river itself, its tributaries and the riverside towns and villages.
HIGHLIGHTS
THE SEPIK
River Lakes
(p181)
Barbecuing your freshly caught fish on the
deserted and idyllic Muschu Island (p184)
THE SEPIK
and marked in 1968. On several occasions The inexorable force of the river tears ficial channels cut as shortcuts across loops Sepik people invest great spiritual power
large numbers of Papuan refugees have fled great chunks of mud and vegetation out of in the river), and this makes travel times in crocodiles. People around Korogo vil-
into PNG. In 1984 more than 100 Indonesian the riverbanks and these drift downstream much longer. lage in the Middle Sepik perform an ini-
soldiers deserted to the OPM (Organisasi as floating islands. There is no delta and the In the dry season the Chambri Lakes can tiation rite where young men are cut with
Papua Merdeka, or Free West Papua river stains the sea brown for 50km or more get very smelly – they shrink, fish die and hundreds of incisions on the back, chest and
Movement), sparking a major Indonesian from the shore. weed rots. buttocks (p197).
178 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k 179
Dangers & Annoyances most-visited and heavily populated sections WEWAK Orientation
Sepik Natnat (Tok Pisin for mosquito) of the Sepik, as well as several large tributaries. As Wewak was once the site of the largest The headland overlooking Wewak is a largely
aren’t particularly big but can be numerous It was here, in 1945 that the Japanese finally Japanese airbase in mainland New Guinea, residential area with some nice houses. The
and vicious. They’re not a problem while surrendered to the allies and various vehicles it was subject to a barrage of bombs during main commercial area is at the bottom of
on the river, but on the banks they can de- of war can still be seen, rotting where they WWII. the hill behind the beach. The rest of town
scend in hordes. For malaria information were left. A short distance inland the coastal moun- stretches eastward towards the airport, about
see p323. Vanilla, once a lucrative crop for Sepik tains of the Prince Alexander Mountains sepa- 8km away. When locals refer to ‘the town’,
There are fewer mosquitoes in the June- villagers, has seen its price spiral downhill rate the narrow band of flat land and headland they are often specifically referring to Wewak’s
to-October dry season, and they are less of a in the last few years. A scarcity of buyers peninsula on which Wewak is built from the main drag which is also known as ‘the centre’.
problem once you get up the tributaries, to and a glut on the international market have Sepik Basin. Wewak is spread out, but fortunately there’s
higher altitudes and cooler weather. seen the 2003 record highs of US$450 per Wewak itself is an attractive town, and an excellent bus system around town.
kilogram nose dive to mere US$26 per kilo- while most people pause only long enough The intersection of Boram Rd with the
gram in 2007, and place additional hard- to arrange their Sepik expedition and stock road leading down to the main wharves and
EAST SEPIK PROVINCE ships on impoverished communities. The
provincial capital, Wewak, is linked by three
up on provisions, it does have its charms. A the provincial government offices is called
‘Caltex’, despite the fact that the service sta-
series of beaches with golden sand and backed
East Sepik Province is much more developed roads to the Sepik River towns of Angoram, by swaying palm trees start here and stretch tion is a BP outlet.
than Sandaun Province and includes the Timbunke, and Pagui. all along the coast. There’s a wharf for local fishing boats and
canoes next to Wewak town, and a longer one
0 80 km for ships, east of the Windjammer Hotel.
SANDAUN & EAST SEPIK PROVINCES 0 50 miles
Vanimo B
MAPS
a
To Jayapura
b e The Christian Bookshop (%856 2126) sells the
l b
e r 1:500,000 East Sepik and Sandaun Provinces
g
S t
ra
(K14) detailing the Sepik in all its coiled,
Be wa n i M o
u nt
i t twisted glory.
ai
ns
Sissano Warapu B I S M A R C K S E A
Bewani Arop
Tumleo I & Information
Seleo I EMERGENCY
SANDAUN
(WEST SEPIK)
Aitape
Tarawai I Walis I Ambulance (%856 2166)
PROVINCE
To
Lemieng
Mission Kairiru I
Vokeo I
Police (%856 2633)
rr
ic e Muschu
lli Passage
Imonda
Mo u n t a i n s
Pr Dagua Muschu I INTERNET ACCESS
i nc
e
Al e ai
n
R
Help Resources (%856 2661; [email protected]
x a nd aw Cape Cape Moem
Lumi er H
Mou n t a Wom Wewak .pg; per min 40t) On some days a piece of string and a
Amanab ins
r
Maprik
Yangoru Passam Bam I
Hayfield Darapap here.
w
Entrance
r
Rive
Murik
Mendam
In Wewak Boutique Hotel (%856 2100; inwewak@
Yellow River Lakes global.net.pg; Seaview Rd) Has the only decent connec-
ser
Green River
Sepik River EAST SEPIK Watam
tions in town.
Hau
Marienberg
Tipas Jama PROVINCE r
ve
Ri
Pagwi Angoram
ik
ge Sep Anwar MEDICAL SERVICES
an Timbunke Chimondo
Hospital (%856 2166) On the point at Cape Boram.
r
R Maliwai
ive
Oum Ambunti
st No 1
Maio Chambri Palambei Bogia
st R
Yuat Rive
River
May River Kubkain Wagu r MONEY
Au
River
ve Yip
Ri
a)
Wasui
ri ANZ (%856 1100; The Town) Charges 1% commission to
Iw
Sio Lagoon e
Apr
Hun am
May (
Korogopa
r
h
stein s
ro change travellers cheques. It also has ATMs.
us
il
Ran Ko
m
Mapisi ge
a
Amboin
og
(W
ara Westpac (%856 2113; The Centre) Has no ATMs (yet). It
W
) R Ke
ive See Middle & Lower Yimas ram also charges 1% commission to change travellers cheques.
Leon
Ramu
ard
Ri
T
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
ur Mt Stole
ve
h
WEWAK 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
Activities Festivals & Events
SWIMMING & SNORKELLING Wewak’s Garamut & Flute Festival is usually held
A B C D Wewak’s beaches are excellent – long stretches on the first weekend of September, and fea-
INFORMATION Sepil Adventure Tours....................(see 17) SHOPPING of white sand that fall away gently under the tures song and dance as well as yam-planting
ANZ...................................................1
Christian Bookshop............................2
C3
C3
Tennis Courts...................................12 D3 Chambri Market...............................23
Dagua Market..................................24
C4
A3
water. The water is clean and clear, warm and ceremonies.
1 East Sepik Cultural & Tourism Bureau..3 B4 SLEEPING Kreer Market....................................25 C4 very inviting.
Help Resources...................................4
Hospital.............................................5
A4
D3
Airport Lodge.................................. 13
In Wewak Boutique Hotel ...............14
D4
D2
Main Market....................................26
Nuigo Market...................................27
C3
A4
There’s excellent snorkelling around the Sleeping & Eating
Post Office.........................................6 C3 Paradise New Wewak Hotel.............15 C2 Wewak headland, over the outer reef and off There are good accommodation options
Provincial Government Offices...........7 B4 Seaview Hotel..................................16 C3 TRANSPORT
Westpac.............................................8 C3 Sepik Surfsite Lodge......................... 17 D4 Air Niugini........................................28 C3
the nearby islands. Like many coastal places among Wewak’s hotels and guesthouses.
Warihe Guesthouse ........................ 18 D3 Air Niugini......................................(see 29) in PNG, the diving conditions around Wewak You can stay in town at a couple of decent
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Wewak Backpackers........................19 A3 Air Terminal..................................... 29 D4
Catholic Church.................................9 C2 Windjammer Hotel...........................20 B4 Boats to Muschu & Kairiru Is............30 D3
are sensational – reefs, wrecks, tropical fish – hotels, but there’s no reason not to stay along
Cemetery......................................... 10 D2 BP Outlet..........................................31 B4 but there’s no organised diving industry the beach a few kilometres away from town
Japanese Memorial Peace Park.........11 B4 EATING Lutheran Shipping............................32 B4
Gala Ice Cream Bar .........................21 D3 MAF................................................ 33 D4 in Wewak. towards the airport. Daytime buses from here
Sce Wewak Point
Sea
nic Wewak Yacht Club.......................... 22 D3 Main PMV Stop.............................(see 26) to town are frequent and cheap, and the beach
Rabaul Shipping...............................34 C3
2 view
Rd
Dr
SURFING is brilliant.
Wewak West WEWAK
Va TOWN
Sce Between mid-October and late April mon- Eating options, beyond daytime kai bars
Harbour nic
l
ley Dr soon swells bring waves between 1m and (cheap takeaway food bars), are confined to
The La 15
Cen
tre Sea
view
14 2.5m to PNG’s northern coast, and there are the hotels and yacht club.
9 Rd 10 several good breaks around Wewak. Some Wewak Backpackers (Wewak Guesthouse; %856
Norse
See Enlargement
of the hotels have surfboards, but they’re 1497; Cathedral Rd; dm/s/d K25/50/100) Mrs Barry
man
Hill
C
16
V
pretty battered – surfers usually bring their (you won’t be on a first-name basis) runs
St
na
Ave
MONGNIOL
Ke
COMPOUND 12 own. her guesthouse with a titanium fist. When
Rd Va WEWAK 18
Da
a
gu 24
Wewak
lle
y TOWN she says ‘jump’, you ask ‘how high?’ It’s the
2
28 8 La
3 Harbour The GOLF cheapest place in town and none too clean.
Ch
26 Cen Boram Rd
urc
tre 21 22 There’s an 18-hole golf course beyond the Ralf Stüttgen’s Place (Tower Guesthouse; %856
hS
19 1 6
t
Rd
th
Cape Boram
ed
20
11 Wreck of
Boram The tennis club on Wewak hill is seldom commodation in two very simple rooms in a
Bay
27 7 MV Busama manned. Bring your own racquet and if any- house overflowing with dogs, storage boxes,
Minga
4 Bo
one shows up, blame it on this guide (and carvings, books, WWII memorabilia and
t Rd
ra
m
Por
25 BORAM
4 Rd
To Moem Barracks; sort out the fee). ethnic art. Ralf doesn’t get many hard-core
d
Creek
WIRUI 31
ig
Rd 13 17
Tours
Nu
23
3
day in the ’80s when the guesthouse opened.
ui
KREER COMPOUND
m
ra Wewak is the main departure point for trips Ralf’s place is on a 400m ridge overlooking
Cree
a list of inbound tourist operators who run 15km inland from Wewak. Take PMV 2-3
just in case there’s a local event happening they can some rapidly disappearing rusting Japanese all-inclusive trips in the area. Some can also (K2) to Tower from the main market.
tell you about, but otherwise this centre won’t be of landing barges. The Japanese War Memorial arrange tours around Wewak and out to the Warihe Guesthouse (%/fax 856 1153, 693 7201; dm/d
much use. marks the mass grave of many troops. The offshore islands of Mushu and Kairiru. K50/120) The dorms here are airless boxes but
Ralf Stüttgen (%856 2395) Ralf has been in the Sepik soldier’s bodies were later exhumed and For cheaper local guides and do-it-yourself the common toilets are clean and the showers
region since 1968. He doesn’t run tours but he offers ad- returned to Japan. options see p192. are cold-water only. The doubles are self -
vice to those heading to the Sepik and expects to be paid. Sepik Adventure Tours (% 856 2525; www contained with air-con and fridge. The bar
Alternatively, you’re welcome to buy some artefacts (p183) JAPANESE MEMORIAL PEACE PARK .ambuntilodge-sepiktour.com.pg; Sepik Surfsite Lodge) is here gets fairly rough.
and get some free advice. He also offers accommodation This peace park contains a memorial and a the most visible of the local operators and SIL Guesthouse (%856 2176/2416; s/d K80/90) The
(opposite). fish pond. Tok Pisin doesn’t have a word for a valuable source of information. Friendly SIL Guesthouse is in Kreer Heights, and is
peace; ‘peace’ sounds like pis, which means Alois Mateos also owns Ambunti Lodge clean, secure and comfortable. It’s also often
Sights fish. Thus, most locals refer to the park as on the Upper Sepik and specialises in all- full. There are several furnished two-bedroom
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
MISSION POINT TO CAPE BORAM pis park, which is perhaps appropriate given inclusive tours based there. A seven-night/ flats with kitchens, bathrooms and TV. This is
Near the main wharf lie the rusting remains the fish pond and the general ambivalence eight-day tour costs K6064 for a solo traveller a good place for a group, but book well ahead.
of MV Busama. Further down at Kreer, on the that many modern Papua New Guineans have or K2115 per person in a group of four. Bear To get there, take a town bus to Kreer Heights
road to the airport, there’s the wooden hulk towards WWII. in mind however that four of those days are and then ask for directions.
of a Taiwanese fishing junk. On the beach Ironically, the peace park is enclosed by actually spent in Wewak or travelling to/from Sepik Surfsite Lodge (%856 1516; adventurepng@
between Kreer Market and the hospital are a wire fence. Pagwi. datec.net.pg; r K105-156; a) The prime, beachside
182 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • W e w a k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e w a k 183
location and the haus win (open-air structure Airport Lodge (%856 2373; [email protected]; sale; otherwise it’s largely all local produce on Madang and Vanimo calling into Wewak
like a gazebo) restaurant (mains K35) and s K154-187 d K165-198; a) Opposite the airport, offer. The dried fish can get fairly ‘ripe’ in the on the way past. Schedules are erratic but
bar are the chief draws here. The fan-cooled this a good midrange option. The rooms are hot sun but it’s worth poking around here generally there are two overnight services a
cheaper rooms with shared, cold-water-only clean with small en suites and have TVs. to see if anyone has brought in a live baby month costing adult/student K80/70 to either
facilities seemed pricey considering their fairly There’s a large aviary in the tropical gardens crocodile to sell – usually with its snout tied Madang or Vanimo.
basic amenities. The more expensive rooms and when the cockatoo gets to screeching shut. This is also the main PMV stop. The Wuvulu-Aua community own the
are essentially the same but are at least self- you’ll be tempted to turn it into a headdress. There are several other markets around MV Thompson, which does a trading circuit
contained with hot water and air-con. The The beach bar is under a large shade sail and Wewak, of which Kreer market, on the air- between Wuvulu, Aua, Manus, Wewak and
manager, Alois Mateos, is a great Sepik expert it’s a great place for lunch (K17 to K20) and port road just before it turns inland, is the Madang, but there’s no schedule so it’s a mat-
and owner of Sepik Adventure Tours (p319) a beer. The restaurant offers a choice of three most interesting. Chambri market on Boram ter of asking around at the port.
and Ambunti Lodge (p194). The Surfside is mains (K40) in the evenings. Rd sells buai (betel nut) and a few artefacts.
opposite the airport. In Wewak Boutique Hotel (%856 2100; inwewak@ There are also Dagua and Nuigo markets CAR & PMV
Seaview Hotel (%856 1131; fax 856 1281; Hill St; global.net.pg; Seaview Rd; s K200, d/tw K280-380, f K380; which sell buai, pitpit and sometimes woven There are roads running west along the
s K121-191, tw/f K198/280; a) The Seaview has had ais) This gleaming white, spotlessly pandanus satchels. coast as far as Aitape, through the Torricelli
incarnations as a hotel and police barracks, clean, plantation-style hotel opened in 2006 Mountains and into the Sepik Basin, but
but it’s a hotel again now, and a comfortable and is easily the best accommodation available. CARVINGS they’re very rough.
place to stay. The budget rooms represent The rooms are accessed off expansive decks Nobody comes to the Sepik without buying The 3-10 PMV bound for Maprik (K20,
the best value for money whereas the VIP furnished with comfortable outdoor lounges. at least one carving and buying just one is four hours) leave between noon and 1am
rooms (K315) are overpriced. The à la carte The small single rooms have flat-screen TVs often a good strategy. Sepik pieces are often Monday to Saturday from near the post of-
restaurant (meals K25 to K45) has outlooks but no air-con and there is only one twin heavy and large, and are a drag to lug around fice. Other routes include the 3-5 and 3-6 to
to the town and a sweeping arc of the harbour room. Discounts are sometimes available to the country. Small flyers charge a premium Kubalia; the 3-7 to Yangoru and the 3-9 to
but the service is very slow. Tariffs include those who ask. The Cocoa Café (mains K20; on excess baggage no matter how empty the Wosera (all K10).
airport transfers. open 7am to 9am and 11am to 2pm) is reason- flight is. The Airport Lodge and Sepik Surfsite For travel to the Sepik access towns of
Paradise New Wewak Hotel (%856 2155; fax 856 ably priced as is the Vanilla Room (mains K40 Lodge both have small craft shops. Pagwi, Timbunke and Angoram from Wewak
3411; Hill St; s/d/tr K132/154/176; a) There’s nothing to K50; open 6pm to 9pm). The latter serves Ralf Stüttgen (%856 2395, 682 0051) has a vast see p190.
‘new’ about the New Wewak Hotel. Situated local food prepared to international standards array of Sepik carvings collected over a life-
atop the headlands, overlooking the ocean, with dishes such as seared yellow-finned tuna time with pieces from 50 different villages. His AROUND WEWAK
this old hotel seems destined to fall into or chicken in green coconut curry. Yum. artefacts are for sale, or he can tell you where Cape Moem
disrepair. The rooms however are large and Gala Ice Cream Bar (% 682 4515; meals K10; to buy particular pieces on the river. There are some fine beaches for swimming and
comfortable with fans, fridges, phone, air- h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) The best kai bar in diving at Cape Moem, past the airport. The
con and private facilities. The open air, haus town with outside seating on the waterfront. Getting There & Around cape is an army base however, so seek permis-
win restaurant (mains K20 to K35; open 8am It serves a decent chicken and chips, and three AIR sion from the commanding officer (%856 2060).
to 2pm and 6pm to 10pm) and bar has great flavours of ice cream. Wewak is a major hub for air transport around Get a bus to Moem Barracks, then walk 1km
views to Robin Island and serves fare of the Wewak Yacht Club (%856 2708; meals K20; h2- the Sepik. Air Niugini (%856 2233; fax 856 2203; The along a dirt road to the right.
‘steak ’n’ chip’ variety. 8pm) The yacht club overlooks a nice part of Centre) has frequent connections to Madang At Brandi High School, to the east of
Windjammer Hotel (% 856 2388; windjammer@ the harbour. There aren’t too many yachts tied (K360, 40 minutes), Vanimo (K351, 35 min- Cape Moem, there’s a collection of Japanese
datec.net.pg; Boram Rd; s K135-400, d K185-465; ai) up, and the patrons are mostly Wewak locals utes) and Port Moresby (K650, via Madang). war relics.
The Windjammer is halfway between the and expats who come for drinks and simple Other destinations are via Port Moresby.
town and the airport, right on the beach. pub-grub. Dances are held here every couple MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; %856 2124; Airport) Cape Wom
There is a dizzying array of rooms – all of months and while the club is for members, flies to Ambunti (K280, whole plane char- Fourteen kilometres west of Wewak, Cape
priced differently. Some rooms were quite tourists are welcomed. ter K2100) in the Sepik every Tuesday and Wom International Memorial Park (admission K4;
comfortable but others smelt musty and Thursday and Vanimo (K590) on Wednesday h7am-6.30pm) is the site of a wartime airstrip
were in need of modernisation to justify Shopping and Friday via Aitape (K300). It also flies and where the Japanese surrender took place.
their prices. At one time the Windjammer Wewak is adequately supplied with super- into many remote airstrips in the East Sepik There’s a war memorial flanked by flagpoles
had a large collection of Sepik art adorn- markets, chemists and clothing stores. There’s Province and on to Mt Hagen on Monday. on the spot where Japanese Lieutenant
ing its walls, but these have been sold to an a market and several Christian bookstores. General Adachi signed the surrender docu-
European art collector. Nonetheless it’s still There are also several bulk stores that supply BOAT ments and handed his sword to Australian
worth visiting just to see the magnificent regional trade stores up the river. Lutheran Shipping (Luship; %852 2577; luship.madang Major General Robertson on 13 September
carved crocodile bar. The beachside haus @global.net.pg) connects Wewak to Vanimo 1945. On the west side of the cape there’s a
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
win makes the Windjammer a nice place for MARKETS (K107 to K192) fortnightly and Madang good reef for snorkelling and a nice stretch
dinner. The restaurant (meals K30 to K50; The main market, at the west end of the town’s (K79 to K107) weekly. It’s predominantly a of sand for swimming. It’s a pleasant place
open 6pm to 10pm) serves some of the best main shopping strip, is pretty colourful thanks cargo carrier, but some of its ships also carry for picnics and has good views across to
food in town, including seafood, burgers and to the multitude of umbrellas used to shade passengers. the islands.
salads. There a nightclub attached which can the merchants. There are a few bilums (string Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %856 1160; Simogun Cape Wom has had raskol (bandit) prob-
get noisy and very rough. No shirt required. bags) and occasionally some small trinkets for Pde) operates the MV Kokopo Queen between lems so it’s best to go when many people are
184 E A S T S E P I K P R O V I N C E • • M a p r i k A re a lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • Va n i m o 185
around. It’s always popular on weekends. island at Shagur village, Wolfy Kalem runs Sleeping often traded over the border into Indonesian
There’s no transport that reaches there – you Polen Guesthouse (r per person K20, meals K10-15). On At the time of research there was a half West Papua.
could catch a PMV bound for Dagua (a village the southern side of the island there is also a built orange building, on a small rise above
further west) at the Wewak main market and Catholic Mission that accepts guests. the police station that, we were told, was VANIMO
get off at the turn-off to the cape at Suara. also to be a guesthouse and may be worth Vanimo is a tiny outpost on the western edge
From the turn-off it is a 3km walk. There’s a MAPRIK AREA asking about. of a remote country; most travellers who get
ranger at the gates. There isn’t much to Maprik. There is a market, Niamikum Guest House (%689 4477; per person this far go onto Jayapura in Indonesia.
post office, two churches and a couple of stores K50) If arriving by PMV you’ll need to ar- Vanimo’s topography, with its peninsula
Coastal Islands selling the bare essentials (and, oddly enough, range with the driver to run you the extra and hill, is reminiscent of Wewak and, like-
Just off Wewak’s coast are the beautiful and ice-cream scoops although, disappointingly, 2km out of town to this camp. The cab- wise, there are beautiful beaches and a bus-
often overlooked islands of Muschu and no ice-cream) and that’s about it. A tour of ins here are scattered through spacious tling port. Vanimo, however, is much smaller
Kairiru. Speed boats leave from the beach the town takes a couple of minutes; look out grounds. There is a communal kitchen and quieter, with generous and hospitable
opposite the post office at around 3pm to both for the pair of carved totem poles of which one but no bathrooms, just a river; go easy on people. The town’s Indonesian influence
Muschu (K15) and Kairiru (K20). side is male and the other, female. the soap. is quite marked in the goods for sale in the
Maprik town aside, this area in the Prince Maprik Wakin Hotel (%858 1315; r K77-143) The stores as much as the fabrics hanging up in
MUSCHU ISLAND Alexander Mountains overlooking the vast only difference between the VIP and stand- the market.
Palm trees, turquoise waters, nearby reefs and Sepik Basin is very interesting. It’s noted for ard rooms is that the VIP ones come with The Malaysian logging company Vanimo
a left-hand point-break (November to March) the Abelam people’s distinctive haus tambarans, their own bathroom. Otherwise expect the Forest Products (www.vanimoforestproducts.com.pg)
make this one of Papua New Guinea’s best- yam cults, carvings and decorations. There are same c 1970s lino and mismatched curtains. is logging the province and there are busi-
kept secrets. Muschu may only be a half-hour numerous villages around Maprik, many with The Wakin is near the town market. ness opportunities with cross-border trade.
boat ride from downtown Wewak but it’s a a striking, forward-leaning haus tambaran, Hopes are high for development even
whole other world away and the perfect place an architectural style echoed in such mod- Getting There & Away though the Indonesian and Malaysian busi-
to unwind after the rigours of the Sepik. ern buildings as Parliament House in Port To get to Maprik from Wewak catch a 3- ness people seem to have a disdain for the
Hidden in the jungle are a couple of Moresby. The front façade of the Maprik haus 10 PMV (Monday to Saturday) from op- local service workers that is quite palpable
Japanese antiaircraft guns and a plane wreck. tambarans are brightly painted in browns, posite the post office. The road climbs up and uncomfortable.
There isn’t much left of the plane; some scat- ochres, whites and blacks and in some cases and over the Prince Alexander Mountains
tered debris, two hulking engines and a pro- reach 30m high. then, 132km later, turns off at the Hayfield’s
peller. Further inland, two jeeps lie abandoned Without your own vehicle getting to the Orientation
junction for the final 8km into town. The Vanimo is built at the base of a hilly headland
alongside the Japanese Road, now overgrown various villages can be problematic. Speak to trip takes between three and four hours and
with regenerating jungle. the owner of the Maprik Wakin Hotel to ar- on a narrow isthmus. The airport’s runway
costs K20. slashes across the neck of this isthmus from
From the main village of Sup it’s a five-hour range an impromptu tour. Traditionally haus PMVs run back to Wewak and to Pagwi
walk to the area school and the deep and won- tambarans were exclusively an initiated-man’s the western ports to the eastern beaches. ‘The
(K10, two hours) from the town market Town’ can be found between the airport and
derfully clear swimming hole. domain, but these days the rules are usually place. The last stretch to Pagwi reaches
oAuong Guesthouse (George’s Guesthouse; bent for Western travellers. Locals usually the base of the headland and has all the es-
the Sepik floodplain and has recently sentials – supermarkets, post office, Westpac
Sup village; K30 per person) Ask for George around charge between K5 to K10 to enter and an been upgraded courtesy of the Australian
the small beach opposite Wewak’s post office. additional K5 to K10 photography fee. There (which cashes travellers cheques for K30),
government. Bank South Pacific (with an ATM), hotels and
He’ll run you across to the island (K15) to isn’t much to see inside anymore, most of
his beachside guesthouse. Accommodation is the art having been sold to collectors decades a rather unimpressive market.
in a simple, but spotlessly clean bungalow, a
stone’s throw from an unspoilt, coral-fringed
ago. The tunnel-like entrance at the front is
reserved for ceremonies; you’ll be asked to
SANDAUN PROVINCE Most hotels send vans to meet arriving
guests, but the two main hotels are only a five-
beach. George’s wife Josephine makes deli- enter by a door at the back. Sandaun (pronounced sundown) Province minute walk away, opposite the Indonesian
cious meals (K15 to K17) and his sons guide Yams are a staple food in this region. is so named because it’s in the northwest of consulate.
guests (K10) to local sights. George also has Harvesting entails considerable ritual and PNG – where the sun goes down. Formerly
a set of scuba equipment (K80), a surfboard you may see yam festivals during the July or called West Sepik Province, it’s largely un- Sights & Activities
and snorkel set (K25) for hire. August harvest time. Woven fibre masks are developed, but agricultural activity around There’s a pleasant two-hour walk around the
used in ceremonies where yams are decorated Telefomin and timber development near headland, but carry water and sun protection.
KAIRIRU ISLAND to resemble people. Vanimo have brought rapid change. Gold People in the villages here don’t get a lot of
Kairiru is heavily forested and rises to nearly Interesting back roads connect villages be- is mined inland. There are opportunities to tourists or even a lot of local passers-by so
800m. Its western end is volcanic and the sea tween Maprik and Lumi, some with spectacu- surf and enjoy the beaches here but it is a be respectful as you enter an area and seek
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
has broken into an active crater at Victoria Bay lar haus tambarans and good carvings. You very remote part of PNG. approval before moving on. There’s good
where there’s good snorkelling, hot springs can walk between these villages. Ask permis- Sandaun Province is most notable to out- snorkelling offshore and the beaches are sen-
and waterfalls. At the northeastern end of the sion before entering a village and then see the siders because of the devastating tsunami in sational, but ask before stripping down and
island, there are two big Japanese guns. bigman (local leader). the region near Aitape in 1998. As in East plunging in.
It is possible to stay here at some grass- Maprik makes for a convenient overnight Sepik Province, cash-crop farmers are mak- Another good walk is west along the beach
roots guesthouses. On the far side of the stop on the way to Pagwi. ing good profits on vanilla beans which are from the airport. After 40 minutes you come
186 S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • Va n i m o Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S A N D AU N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d Va n i m o 187
to a limestone headland draped with vines – Weekends get noisy when Malay business- BOAT traditional wealth is presented to newly
wade around it to the beautiful beach on the men are in town to spend their money and The Lutheran Shipping agent (%857 1320; h9am- married couples.
other side. There’s a rusting Japanese landing feed the pokies. There’s a comfortable bar 1pm & 2-4pm) is located in the Vanair building
barge just offshore. area and a great restaurant (mains K25; open not far from MAF. It opens its office three AITAPE
Narimo Island can be seen offshore from 7am to 9am, 11.30am to 2.30pm and 5pm to days prior to the arrival of the fortnightly MV Aitape is a tiny coastal town east of Vanimo
the Vanimo Beach Hotel. This is an excellent 9pm) which serves Western essentials (steak), Rita or MV Momase. Prices vary between the towards Wewak.
place for picnics and swimming. The hotel Malaysian classics and local lobster. two boats and the two classes (the upper-deck The Germans established a station here in
may be able to arrange a boat to take you Varmoneh Lodge (%857 1281; fax 857 1273; s K99, tourist class and the bottom-deck passenger 1905 and the jail they built in 1906 still stands
there or else ask about boat hire at West Deco d K99-132; a) This is a steep walk from town class). Boats travel to Aitape (K45 to K94), above the town. It was used by the Japanese
village near the main wharf on the other side at East Tower – head for the antennae array. Wewak (K79 to K107) and Madang (K107 during WWII.
of the peninsula. Oddly, the more expensive self-contained de- to K192). In 1944 an Australian division pushed
luxe rooms have no windows and are pretty Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %693 3176) runs inland from Aitpe, against considerable
SURFING grim. Meals are available (K15 to K25) and the MV Kokopo Queen twice a month to Japanese opposition, to establish a base in
One claim to fame that Vanimo does have feature yams, sago, banana and fresh fish. Wewak (K80, overnight) and Madang the Torricelli Mountains. From there, they
is the best surf in PNG, and it’s one of the Alcohol is not allowed and airport transfers (K160, two days). Its office is the white pushed the Japanese eastward until Wewak
primary reasons why people come to Vanimo. are included in the tariff. shipping container opposite PNG Ports at fell on 22 May 1945. A B24 bomber sits out-
The surf is strictly seasonal, from October Vissers Guesthouse (%857 1366; fax 857 1309; s/d/ the wharf. side Aitape High School between Tadji air-
through April, when monsoon swells bring apt K98/196/392; a) The guesthouse is up the hill Banana boats depart Vanimo, weather per- strip and the town. There’s a Japanese war
waves between 1m and 2m. Vanimo and on the west side of the headland. The wood- mitting, for Aitape (K90 to K100, four to five memorial between the town and the Santa
around has excellent point-breaks and beach- panelled rooms are large, comfortable and hours) regularly. Larger vessels that supply Anna Mission.
breaks with consistently good surf. There’s a quaintly old-fashioned. There is no kitchen or the coastal trade stores sometimes pin no- As fierce as that fighting was, the tsunami
local bunch of surfers known as the Lido Surf restaurant but there is free, spasmodic trans- tices around town advertising schedules and on 17 July 1998, really laid waste to the area.
Club – an informal collective who show visit- port to town, a 15-minute walk away. departure dates. A 10m tsunami struck a 14km stretch of
ing surfers around in a banana boat out to the Sandaun Motel (%857 1148; reception@sandaun coastline and swallowed everything within
nearby island breaks. They can even arrange motel.com.pg; s/d K168/196; a) The motel is remi- CAR & PMV 500m from the shoreline. More than 2200
accommodation in local villages. There’s no niscent of a string of railway carriages – a series The road from Vanimo to Jayapura is finally people were killed, 1000 terribly injured and
surf-rage in PNG and the scene is just in its of large airy bungalows, each with a wooden finished and travel to Indonesia by land is 10,000 became homeless in an instant. Help
infancy. BYO boards. floor, overhead fan, TV and fridge. The bar simple. You need to have a visa, which you didn’t arrive for 16 hours and it was three
In February 2007 the Surfing Association of and restaurant (meals K20 to K40; open 7am can get from the Indonesian consulate, but days before most of the injured were admitted
Papua New Guinea (www.surfingpapuanewguinea.org to 9am, noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm) serves other than that, what used to be complicated into hospitals at Vanimo and Wewak.
.pg) held the national surf titles here and by all steaks, Chinese and lobster dishes. is now very easy. See p310 for details.
accounts some got ‘axed by gnarly bombs in Visser Enterprises Ltd (%857 1366) rents cars Getting There & Away
the green room’ while others ‘boosted some Shopping for K280 per day. It also runs a local guest- There are two airstrips: Tadji and Aitape.
major, bitchin’ air’ – umm right. See p287 for There are several supermarkets and chemists house (opposite) and will drive you to the border Tadji airstrip, where most flights land,
more on surfing in PNG. in Vanimo all spread apart. There are mar- for K154. is 10km out of town. There’s nothing at
kets located on a few green stretches around the grass strip except a windsock and guy
Sleeping & Eating town selling fruit and vegetables, clothing and Getting Around with a two-way radio, and even he goes
Travellers have reported that if you hang Indonesian cigarettes. Vanimo itself is easy to get around by foot, away between flights. The airstrip was
around the Vanimo Beach Hotel with your although there are a couple of taxis. PMVs the scene of much activity during WWII
backpack, looking homeless, locals offer Getting There & Away run along the beach roads. Banana boats when the Australian Air Force flew Bristol
homestays. AIR ferry people around the coast – it costs K25 Beaufort bombers from it – the original
Tanyuli Bungalows (Yako Village; d K80) These nine To avoid the queues head early to the Air to Lido. tarmac can still be seen in places through
bungalows are in the seaside village of Yako Niugini (%857 1014; [email protected]) the vegetation.
(PMV fare K1.50), next to Baro school, on the office in town near the market. There are AROUND VANIMO The road between Wewak and Aitape is
way to the Indonesian border. Facilities are three flights a week to Wewak (K351), The coast between Vanimo and the Indo- very rough and closed during the occasional
fairly basic – a mattress on the floor, but there Madang (K607), Lae (K836) and Port nesian border has many superb beaches, bad wet season. In Wewak ask around the
are plans to improve the toilets and shower. If Moresby (K824). waterholes and lagoons, pretty creeks and PMV stop opposite the town wharf for the
you ask nicely your hosts will prepare meals. MAF (% 857 1091; fax 857 1481) has flights picturesque villages. There are panoramic next truck heading to Aitape (K60, twice
Vanimo Beach Hotel (%857 1102; fax 857 1131; s/d to Amanab (K250), Green River (K320), views up and down the coast and locals will weekly).
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
from K94/165) This hotel has a range of rooms Telefomin (K580), Tabubil (K610) and direct you to several fine waterfalls. Banana boats travel from Aitape to
and self-contained suites. The well-trimmed Oksapmin (K750). Lido village has a worthwhile surf beach Vanimo (K90 to K100), but this is a dan-
gardens and traditionally inspired bungalows Dovair (%857 1259) is principally a charter- and a village guesthouse. Outside every gerous undertaking in rough weather when
(K325) make a pretty impression when you ar- only company that can drop you into the house at Waramo, there are smaller and they often sink. Luship and Star Ships boats
rive and are very comfortable. Unfortunately, jungle so that you can walk out. Good luck well-constructed houses stacked meticu- call in here on their runs between Wewak
the standard rooms are a big step down. with that! lously with cut firewood. This variety of and Vanimo.
188 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • W h a t t o B r i n g 189
TELEFOMIN It is possible to walk to Oksapmin in four to stilt villages, the long canoes with crocodile- boats and canoes, they wear Western clothes,
The remote station of Telefomin was estab- six days. You would need to carry a tent and head prows, the bird life, flower-clogged lakes, but they still practise many traditions.
lished in 1948 and remains one of the most bring your own food. Pastor Silas Neksep can misty dawns and spectacular sunsets make a Christianity, as elsewhere in PNG, is
isolated communities in PNG. help locate guides. visit unforgettable. blended with many traditional beliefs.
The local MAF pilots and pastors give The Middle Sepik is one of the most fre- Although most Sepik people would claim to
excellent advice on local walks, includ- OKSAPMIN quently visited parts of the river, but it is not be Christian (they go to church every Sunday)
ing a three-hour trek to the source of the Oksapmin Station was established in 1962 crowded with tourists – you’re unlikely to it’s a very localised interpretation. The reli-
Sepik. Between 1912 and 1914, Richard and is now the main town in the area. This is bump into other travellers. The river carries gious world is also inhabited with the spirits
Thurnwald walked some hard yards follow- a beautiful region with the Om and Strickland traders and missionaries, but that’s about it. of ancestors and crocodiles.
ing the Sepik to this stream, found not far Rivers and their spectacular valleys. The climb While photos of Sepik villages look idyllic, The Sepik is too big to cover, so pick a sec-
from Telefomin. from the valley floor to the ridges is as high as they don’t show the heat and humidity, the tion and give yourself plenty of time to relax
Children can guide you to Oketemp Cave (1½ 3000m in some places. The district is impor- mosquitoes or the basic village food. Nor do in the villages in between legs on the river
hours return) and Songitin eternal flame (two tant for the vegetables it grows and supplies they indicate the meditative nature of travel- – don’t try and do too much. Two or three
hours return). Bring your matches to light to the Ok Tedi mine (p205) and its name is ling for hours every day in a motor-canoe, Middle Sepik villages are enough for most
the natural gas that seeps from the ground as derived from its two main clans, the Ok and watching ibis take to the sky as you round a people, and some enjoy it more when they
the rain will have put it out. the Min. bend, or the rewards of experiencing these get off the main river.
Missionaries are very active here and tra- Oksapmin was historically a protein- rich and fascinating cultures. The Upper Sepik extends from the river’s
ditional ways are dying out. Men no longer deficient area; even spiders, grubs and beetles During the dry season water levels drop source to just below Ambunti, the Middle
wear ‘Telefomin trousers’ (penis gourds) were eaten before tinpis (tinned fish) was in- dramatically, cutting off villages and turn- Sepik covers from Ambunti to Tambanum
for which the area is renowned other than troduced. In the evenings you can sometimes ing the lakes stagnant. The trapped water and the Lower Sepik is the final section from
at singsings, Christmas celebrations and see torchlight around the valleys as women heats up resulting in a toxic algae bloom Tambanum to the coast.
Independence Day. The town’s genera- search for frogs, mice and snakes. which kills the fish. Eagles then feast on the
tor kicks in at 6pm and finishes at 10pm – There are some dramatic caves in the dead fish (which are found in droves on the What to Bring
provided it has fuel. Oksapmin Valley – you’ll need a guide. river banks). Only take to the Sepik what you need on the
An interesting circular walk can be made The river has few exploitable natural re- Sepik – leave your luggage with someone you
Sleeping through the villages around Oksapmin to sources and has attracted little development trust in Wewak. A daypack is plenty.
To contact the church guesthouses, send a the west and back along the Ariga River. in spite of the density of the population. Even The biggest issues on the Sepik are mos-
message via MAF (%857 1091; fax 857 1481) to the North of Oksapmin, there are very few peo- in the face of Western influences, the peo- quitoes (natnats, p178) and sunburn. You’ll
appropriate pastor. ple, but around the town and to the south ple on the river are living much the same need to cover up for both – long sleeves and
Telefomin Baptist Association Guesthouse (contact in the five high valleys of Bimin, Bak, Tekin, way as their ancestors – people here cook loose-fitting trousers in lightweight fab-
Pastor Silas Kameng; per person K60) As with ABSM Teranap and Gaua there are more than in Western pots and drive motor-powered rics are ideal although natnats can bite
guesthouse, you get the whole house to rattle 10,000 people.
around in. For the more ambitious it is possible to
ABSM Guesthouse (contact Pastor Silas Neksep; s K70, walk from Oksapmin to the Strickland Gorge DOS & DON’TS
group of up to 5 people K140) This is a basic self- and on to Lake Kopiago, from where you
could catch a lift to Tari. This area is driest There’s probably too much hang-up about appropriate behaviour in the Sepik area. Good man-
contained home. Linen, cutlery and pots are ners go a long way and locals usually forgive transgressions of local rules – you won’t know
all supplied. in November and December but can be very
wet any time. you’ve done something wrong. Rules might be different for men and women. Try and remember
Min Baptist Union Guesthouse (MBU; contact the following:
Pastor Yanga Finarok; s K85, group K170) This house
has one double and three singles in a simply
furnished home. THE SEPIK & ITS Don’t wear your hat and shoes into a haus tambaran (spirit house).
Dress and act conservatively.
THE SEPIK
Be discrete about displaying your cash.
Emanuel Ranges are often obscured by cloud populated river region home to isolated peo-
and when incoming weather systems collide Alcohol can be a very sensitive thing in villages – it’s probably better not to have any.
ple (Conrad was a friend of the anthropologist
with the ridges they throw up some pretty Bronislaw Kasper Malinowski). The gender politics can be a bit confusing; it’s better that men mingle with the men and
turbulent air. During such times, flights The scale of the river, the impressive ar- women with women. There can be awkwardness if Western women are allowed into sacred
are suspended. chitecture of haus tambarans, the beautiful haus tambarans when local women aren’t. Couples should not overtly show affection.
190 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • S l e e p i n g & E a t i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r a v e l o n t h e S e p i k 191
right through looser weaves and fine cot- New Guinea, none is considered deserted
tons. Covered footwear is essential as is a by the local who owns it. Landowners have TRIBAL ART
broad-brimmed hat. a tradition of fighting over land, and their The Sepik is synonymous with tribal art (p45). It is often described as Papua New Guinea’s ‘treasure
If you’re travelling on a plush cruise boat forefathers didn’t spend centuries holding trove’; overflowing with masks, shields, figures, canoe prows and story boards and today carving
you won’t need much beyond some sensible off marauding neighbours just to have some plays an important part of the river economy.
clothes, but for everyone else, preparation tourist paddle up and camp on it. Instead, And like all art forms that are alive and vigorous, Sepik art is constantly undergoing subtle
is important. You will probably be sleeping ask to speak to the village chief about village transformations, evolving from traditional forms to reflect current tastes and artistic fashions.
rough (although some river guesthouses pro- guesthouses or local families willing to let Today, just as in the past, a master carver is regarded with considerable prestige and is quite
vide mattresses and linen) and an inflatable you stay or camp with them. If you stay in capable of producing quality work every bit as unique as his forefathers.
hiker’s mattress is perfect when combined someone’s home, compensation is expected The most artistic villages are concentrated on the Middle Sepik. The villages of Palambei,
with a box-style mosquito net secured at four although you will seldom be asked directly to Kaminabit, Mindimbit, Timbunke and Tambanum are all good places to buy tribal art. Remember
corners (the umbrella type are crap). You can make a contribution. that a 10kg carving might cost less than K100 but excess-baggage or postage charges might
buy good mosquito nets in Wewak. A sleeping be twice the cost of the item.
sheet is ideal – silk is lighter and less bulky, Getting There & Away There is also a dark side to art collecting, and over the years unscrupulous art collectors have
cotton is a little cooler. A torch (flashlight) is The river is only accessible by road at three plundered the Sepik of some of its most significant and culturally important pieces. Taking ad-
essential and Sepik people have a voracious points – Angoram on the Lower Sepik and vantage of local poverty, the lucrative ethnic art market and toothless laws, traders have been
appetite for D-size batteries, so stow some to Timbunke and Pagwi on the Middle Sepik. able to strip the area of its cultural treasures leaving the treasure chest, or more aptly, the skull
give away. There is nowhere to recharge spent PMVs in these parts are mostly trucks, either rack, empty.
digital camera batteries so bring an extra or with a tarpaulin covering bench seats down Rory Callinan’s interesting article on the trafficking of human heads is worth reading at www
go easy on the previews. each side, or a plain open tray. Those with .time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1086707,00.html.
You bathe in the river, but never nude: a sensitive tail bone might consider bring-
bring some swimmers or a laplap (sarong) ing a pillow – it can be very hard on your
and a towel. Bring sunscreen, sunglasses, rear end. TRAVEL ON THE SEPIK leaving you up the proverbial creek without
industrial-strength insect repellent, toilet From Wewak, catch a 3-8 PMV to Pagwi Broadly speaking you have three options. You a paddle!
paper, a spoon and a bowl. Rain water is from the post office between 9.30pm and can go-it-alone, hire a local guide or book on The biggest advantage of going alone is that
collected and is fine to drink, but you might 11.30pm (K30, Monday, Wednesday and a prearranged tour. Which one you choose it is considerably cheaper than the other two
want to carry bottled water to be safe. Take Thursday). These vehicles run through the determines the degree of comfort you can options and, like it or not, you’ll be forced to
a basic first-aid kit (see p320), and an um- night in order to meet the waiting canoes at expect and ultimately how much you’ll end up live as the locals do and gain an exceptional
brella might be worthwhile protection from around 6am the next morning. They return spending. All have their pros and cons, and all insight into their way of life.
the sun. to Wewak as soon as they are full, usually are more expensive than you might imagine.
In Wewak or Vanimo you must stock up on between 6am and 8am. To experience the Sepik more economically PADDLING YOURSELF
food and cash. Of the former pack two-minute Roads to Timbunke are impassable in the (and some would say more enjoyably) base You can purchase a small dugout for about
noodles, kundu crackers (beef crackers), rice wet and this is the most unreliable of the three yourself in one village, live with a family, and K300 and paddle yourself. However, this is
and tinpis. Take some cooking oil as well as towns in terms of transport. The trip takes learn the art of sago washing, canoe making, probably insane – the distances are vast and
that’s precious in the Sepik. Any spare food about seven hours and costs K40. gardening and fishing. you can only paddle downstream. You might
you have remaining you can give away and it’s 2-4 PMVs bound for Angoram leave from be able to buy a canoe in Ambunti or Pagwi;
gratefully received. Take plenty of small bills Wewak’s market every day, except Sunday Goin’ Alone it may take a while to find one. Make sure it’s
as villagers seldom have change. (K30, four hours). The road from Wewak to While it’s possible to travel on the Sepik suitably river-worthy. It takes a solid week of
Angoram is the shortest access route to the independently without a guide, very few paddling to get from Ambunti to Angoram.
Sleeping & Eating Sepik. It branches off the Maprik road 19km people do so. Even if you plan to use local This option should not be taken lightly and
Finding a place to stay will rely on your abil- out of Wewak. The 113km, all-weather road is river traffic you’ll get far more from the ex- we don’t recommend it; die-hards should be
ity to find people willing to accommodate good by Sepik standards but it’s still extremely perience if you have the help of a local to well prepared and very well-informed.
you. Locals often consider their dwellings uncomfortable. If you’re returning to Wewak explain the everyday happenings, cultures
below the standard acceptable to ‘white’ folks you start very early (around 3am) in order to and languages. There are some raskols up- VILLAGE CANOES & TRADERS
and although you would gladly roll out your get the locals to the morning market if not river and a guide is honour-bound to get The river traffic is reasonably constant al-
mattress on their floor the feeling may not be bright, at least early. you onto the river and back again safely – though totally unpredictable, and if you’ve
reciprocal. This is where the knowledge of a PMVs are scarce on Saturday and don’t once on the water you are days away from the got a pretty open-ended schedule and a lot
local guide is invaluable. Other villagers who run on Sunday. Market days are the best days nearest medical help. of time you can catch rides in locals’ boats.
have travelled beyond the Sepik are generally to travel when the trucks (and canoes) are If you really want to go alone talk to Ralf This is the cheapest way to go – about K20 per
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
less reserved with foreigners. A lot depends more frequent. Stüttgen (p181) or Alois Mateos in the Sepik hour – but you might be stuck somewhere for
on who you meet and how receptive they are MAF Wewak flies twice weekly to air- Surfsite Lodge (p181) before leaving. a few days before you can get a lift. There is
to an unannounced guest. strips at Amboin on the Karawari River and If you decide to either paddle yourself or very little traffic on the weekend.
Bear in mind that you can’t just pitch a Ambunti (K260). Scheduled flights no longer catch passing canoes you will need to have Catching canoes to and from the major
tent on some deserted stretch of the river. Not call at Angoram. The airstrip is overgrown plenty of time and be well prepared and pro- transport hubs of Pagwi, Timbunke and
only is this unsafe but like all land in Papua and not in use. visioned. Both have the distinct chance of Angoram is relatively easy. There are often
192 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r a v e l o n t h e S e p i k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • U p p e r S e p i k 193
boats travelling to meet the buses arriving Ambunti-based guides Travellers have recommended of fuel affects the price of most things on the understanding of the value of money, so prices
from Wewak and a canoe ride from Pagwi to Ronny Kospi, Alpones Mava, Henry Apina, Cosby Marek, river and varies with the rise and fall of world can be erratic.
Ambunti takes about two hours, depending Toby Wadi, Yunias Tobyas, Albert Yombgos (Masanombok oil prices. A 44-gallon drum of petrol was There’s not the same concentration of artis-
on the outboard’s horsepower and how loaded Camp) and Johowes Teven (%858 5124). Aldonus Mana K800 at the time of research. Ouch! Travelling tic skills that you find on the Middle Sepik, but
down the boat is with passengers and freight. (upstream from Ambunti at Japandai) and Kowspi Marek, during the dry season is more expensive as nature lovers will find this the most exciting
can be reached through the Ambunti Akedemi in Ambunti. various shortcuts are closed when the water part of the river. From Ambunti the river nar-
Guide & Boat Hire Angoram-based guides Elijah Saun and Cletus Maiban level falls. A small, light canoe (15m or so) rows and the land it flows through becomes
There’s nothing quite like cruising along the both offer accommodation and motor-canoe trips. They with a 15HP to 30HP motor is more eco- hilly with denser vegetation. In many areas,
river sitting below the waterline in the bot- can be contacted at the Service Camp, a little upstream nomical than a larger heavier boat. You could trees grow right down to the water’s edge.
tom of a 20m dugout watching the world from Angoram. expect to use one 44-gallon drum of fuel in a There are few villages after Yessan and
slip by and this is perhaps the best option Chris Karis (%856 1584, 698 4651) Based in Wewak three-day tour, two drums in a five-day tour, there is a long uninhabited stretch between
for independent travellers. You have the and operating out of the Airport Lodge (p182), Chris is depending of course on how far you travel. Tipas and Mowi. The Upper Sepik is more
peace of mind knowing that your guide another top guide. If you charter a canoe you also have to pay isolated than the Middle Sepik, because there
will find you a place to stay, arrange some Joseph Konai (%856 2395; fax 858 5108; joeseph for the driver to return to his base, whether are no roads, so a visit requires detailed
food and show you the things that you have [email protected]) He is a wry little fellow and one of you go or not. It’s cheaper to travel down- planning. Villages around here tend to move
come to see along with the added security of the best guides in the area. Based in Ambunti and a friend stream as the consumption is reduced. At a and there are lots of deserted settlements.
reliable transport. of Ralf Stüttgen’s (p181), Joseph can arrange anything leisurely pace you could travel from Ambunti
Ultimately the success of the trip will de- from a day trip to a two-week expedition. For adventurers to Angoram in five days. Green River
pend on the quality of the guide and the reli- he organises raft trips down the April River and canoes for Bearing in mind that various factors can This is a subdistrict station, close to the Sepik
ability of the boat. Because the expense of self-paddlers. Depending on variables and group size you have an influence on the time taken, travel- River in Sandaun (West Sepik) Province, due
the guide and boat can be split it’s cheaper to can expect to pay around K200 per person per day which ling downstream in a large canoe takes about south of Vanimo and very close to the West
travel in a small group. includes his guiding service, the canoe hire, the captain’s 1½ hours from Ambunti to Pagwi, about six Papuan border. It’s about a three-hour walk
fee, fuel, kerosene stoves, pots and cooking utensils. hours from Pagwi to Timbunke, and five to the river but there is a road and you may
GUIDES Recommended. hours from Timbunke to Angoram. Add at get a lift. There are also links to Telefomin
Since finding a reliable guide is paramount to Steven Buku (%856 1956) From Yenchenmangua but least 30% going upstream. and Oksapmin.
an enjoyable trip, every effort should be made often to be found in Nuiko settlement outside of Wewak
to establish contact before your arrival on is another of the Sepik’s most professional guides. He’s Taking a Tour Swagup
the Sepik. This is sometimes easier said than also sometimes contactable via the Windjammer Hotel in This is the easiest, most luxurious and ex- Well off the main stream, east of the April
done. Local guides seldom promote them- Wewak (p182). His uncle, Lawrence Buku of Indabu village pensive way to see the Sepik. Most people River, Swagup is the home of the ‘insect cult’
selves, have no telephones or email addresses also comes recommended. prearrange their Sepik itinerary with either a people. Their unique art usually incorporates
and invariably live in remote villages without Tambanum-based guides Henry Ganwa is major inbound tour operator (p311), or one the figure of a dragonfly, sago beetle, pray-
a postal address. recommended. of the smaller Wewak-based tour companies ing mantis or other insects. The ferocious
It is worth asking for recommendations Wewak-based guides Robert Ulgu (%856 1127, (p319). This latter option is perhaps the best reputation these people earned in former
from other travellers and checking travel re- 696 8943) Cyril Tara ([email protected]) lives in way to go, but give operators a few weeks to times continues.
ports online at Lonely Planet’s ‘Thorn Tree’ Kaminabit but is in Wewak and Kaua Gita regularly. make arrangements.
forum (www.lonelyplanet.com). Wewak hotel Prices vary wildly, from local operators Maio & Yessan
operators (p181) such as Ralf Stüttgen, Alois BOATS such as Sepik Adventure Tours (p181) based The people here have a yam cult but they
Mateos in the Sepik Surfsite Lodge and the Your guide will be able to help you hire a in Wewak to cruises on the Sepik Spirit run have been heavily influenced by missionar-
staff at the Airport Lodge and Windjammer canoe (with an outboard) at a reasonable by Trans Niugini Tours (p165). ies. This area is quite swampy and marshy.
hotels may be able to offer sound advice. Help price and know how much fuel to buy. You The Sepik Spirit (%542 1438; Mt Hagen; www
Resources (p179) is worth emailing directly can hire motor-canoes in Ambunti, Pagwi .pngtours.com; 3-day package per person all-inclusive s/tw Maliwai
as it is often in contact with local guides and and Angoram. US$2585/1739) is a rather odd-looking vessel with This village is on a small lake off the river.
can pass on a message. If you can’t make prior Once you’ve accepted that the dugout its large, square, glass-covered front. It con- The Waskuk people invest spiritual power
contact, then plan on spending a couple of motor-canoes (pronounced car-noo), won’t tains nine rooms, each with their own toilet in cassowaries and these flightless birds are
days in Wewak, Angoram, Ambunti or Pagwi tip over rounding a corner you’ll find the ride and shower as well as a communal lounge and carved into most things, regardless of func-
talking to locals. very relaxing. It takes hours getting anywhere bar area. The boat doesn’t travel quickly so tion. It used to be customary in this village
A good guide should have an extensive net- and the experience is quite calming and medi- guests board faster, smaller craft to explore the to cut off a finger joint when there was a
work of local accommodation options, know tative. Even the buzz of the outboard motor villages, returning each afternoon to overnight death in the family. The spirit house here
the river and be able to accurately estimate seems to fade after a while. on the mother boat. has collapsed and most artefacts are housed
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
travelling times and fuel costs. The going rate Figure on K150 to K200 per day to hire a within people’s homes. Ask for Joseph
is anything from K50 to K80 per day and motor-canoe and pilot, about K150 per day UPPER SEPIK Apaiet who might put you up.
you’ll need to pay your guide’s PMV fares and (or more) in fuel. The fuel is the largest single Above Ambunti, the villages are smaller and
accommodation costs in the villages. contributor to the cost of the trip. Buy your more spread out. The people are friendly and Yambon
Guides currently operating include the fuel in Angoram or Pagwi because it costs a lot hospitable and have had less contact with Not far from Ambunti, Yambon is home to
following: more on the river. Just like back home, the cost Western tourists. Many villagers have no real approximately a thousand Manabu-speaking
194 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k 195
THE SEPIK
Almost every village had a distinct artistic was famed for its orator’s stools. Despite this, Kambak (K25). from the National Museum and is interest-
style, but these styles are now merging. The it’s an attractive village and the entrance to ing to visit (K5). It is a huge building with
whole Middle Sepik region is interesting but the Chambri Lakes. You may be able to stay Palambei enormous carved posts.
the largest concentration of villages is just with the family of James Yesinduma. James You can’t see Palambei village proper from The village guesthouse costs K25 and
below Pagwi and it’s possible to visit several knows everyone who lives on the river and the river and it’s easy to miss – there are you will need to bring your own food and
on a day trip. speaks English. a few huts and there may be some canoes mosquito nets.
196 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • M i d d l e S e p i k lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • L o w e r S e p i k 197
er
er
Keram Riv
ik
Indabu
Suapmeri Kanganaman Timbunke
Mission station, which has been operated by
Palambei
Aibom
Kambaramba
the Catholics for many years, is about two
Ambunti Tambanum
hours downstream from Angoram.
Malu Chambri
Yambon Lakes Wombun Near the mouth of the river, the Murik
Yuat
Kaminabit
Mindimbit
Lakes are vast semi-flooded swamplands, nar-
Yigei
Chambri
rowly separated from the coast. Villages along
Wom
this part of the Sepik are smaller, poorer and
generally have had less Western contact than
River
many in the Middle Sepik.
The vast volume of water and silt coming
Ka
Mameri
raw
Sangriman down means that the landscape around the
ari
Samban
mouth of the Sepik changes rapidly. Many
r
ve
River
Ri
eri
villages here are only a few generations old,
am built on new land.
ros
Ko Blackwater
Lakes
Yamen
Govermas
Amboin
Angoram
Anganmai
Maramba
This is the oldest and largest Sepik station. It
Mariama Kundamam
Lake Karawari Lodge
was established by the Germans before WWII
Govermas
and is now a sleepy administrative centre for
Chimbut the Lower and Middle Sepik regions. Now,
Yimas
Angoram’s population is falling and it’s a town
in decline – there has been no mains power
Kaminabit Korosameri leads to the beautiful Blackwater lived here for an extended time. From in Angoram for 18 years despite the presence
The haus tambaran here is in fairly good con- Lakes region. Mindimbit is entirely depend- Timbunke, Tambanum is about 30 minutes of power poles and cables. There used to be
dition and it is possible to climb to the second ent on carving and there is some nice work, by motor-canoe. banks and businesses, a hospital and airstrip.
floor (K10) to view the painted beams and though there is no proper haus tambaran. The New Tambanum Lodge (%856 2525) is now Apparently this used to be a pretty swinging
rafters. Skin-cutting ceremonies (opposite) You can stay with a friendly family – ask in poor condition. The guesthouse is situated place in the colonial days with dances and
are held here about once every two years dur- for Peter Bai. 600m from the bank. There are six double parties – it’s hard to imagine now.
ing which ancestral skulls are placed in the rooms with shared kitchen and bathroom If you haven’t got a lot of time to spend but
two large drums. The men will play these ga- Timbunke facilities and a separate septic toilet. Meals you want to see some of the Sepik, Angoram
ramut for K10. Carvings are also sold. This is a large village with a big Catholic
Kaminabit is divided into three villages mission, a hospital and a number of other
and it is a few minutes’ walk between each. Western-style buildings. There are also some SCAR TISSUE Nancy Sullivan
There is a large, well-maintained Catholic impressive houses.
The first time I saw an initiated Iatmul man on the Sepik was in 1988. He was a guide on my first
church in the middle village, with three Trans Niugini’s Sepik Spirit calls in here
canoe trip through the region and I couldn’t take my eyes off the bands of gnarly hard welts
wings (one for each village) radiating from which is why there’s a good range of ar-
running down his shoulders and shirtless back. Years later, in the Nambaraman spirit house,
the central pulpit. tefacts and carvings for sale. People have
I witnessed how he must have received such grizzly scars.
Local families offer accommodation – ask had problems trying to find somewhere
On that day I saw a group of young men, under the guidance of their mother’s brothers, pass
for Emanuel Yakawi or William Pekul. James to stay in Timbunke though, and the mis-
from youth to men, androgyny to manhood. All the initiates had their backs cut by their uncles
Minja, Anton Bob, Dominic and Francesca and sion is not helpful. Ask a local about
that day, symbolically bleeding out their mother’s postpartum blood and spilling it onto their
their families have also been recommended. accommodation options.
mother’s line; ‘making’ them into men for their fathers’ clan. The uncles cradled their nephews
From Aibom it takes one hour to get here
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
on their laps as the gruesome scars were quickly and professionally cut. Tigaso tree oil and cool-
by motor-canoe, and from Palambei it’s 1½ Tambanum ing white clay were applied and the boys were then made to lie down by smoky fires to slowly
hours by motor-canoe. This is the largest village on the Middle infect their wounds and produce the knobbly, keloid scars that make their skin resemble that
Sepik and fine, large houses are strung of a crocodile’s. It was during this ordeal, as the flutes and kundu drums played to confuse the
Mindimbit along the bank for quite a distance. women waiting outside, I finally ‘got’ what it meant to cut skin.
The village is near the junction of the The people here are renowned carvers. Nancy Sullivan (www.nancysullivan.org), Papua New Guinea anthropologist
Karawari and Korosameri Rivers. The American anthropologist Margaret Mead
© Lonely Planet Publications
198 T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r i b u t a r i e s & L a k e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E S E P I K & I T S T R I B U TA R I E S • • T r i b u t a r i e s & L a k e s 199
is the place to come to. It’s accessible by road sible to begin a river trip at this point. Villages deepest route connects the lake with the Sepik proofed bungalows. The lodge has dramatic
from Wewak (p190) and there are beautiful in this area are very rarely visited and there just above Kaminabit. There’s another passage views across the Karawari River and a vast sea
and interesting places just a few hours away are unresolved hostilities between clans. Seek via Suapmeri and another via Kandangai. of jungle. Tourists are flown in as part of a
by motor-canoe. advice before heading off from May River. From Suapmeri to Aibom takes 1½ hours by larger itinerary and it’s possible to opt to stay
There are a couple of reputable guides near motor-canoe. From Aibom to Kaminabit takes at nearby villages (far less luxurious). Like all
Angoram. Elijah Saun and Cletus Maiban both April (Wara) River & Wogamush another hour by motor-canoe. There are village of Trans Niugini operations, it’s cheaper to
offer accommodation and motor-canoe trips. River Area boats to Kandangai from Pagwi most days. come to here on a package.
They can be contacted at the Service Camp, a Life on these tributaries continues in a more
little upstream from Angoram. traditional manner, with initiation rites and Karawari River Mameri
Elijah’s house adjoins his carving work- various social taboos and systems still intact. The Karawari runs into the Korosameri About 40 minutes by motor-canoe from
shop on the riverbank. Mattresses, pillows, Both areas are good for bird-watching. There (which drains the Blackwater Lakes) and then Mindimbit and just before the turn-off to the
linen and mosquito nets can be provided. are villages at regular intervals. into the Sepik just near Mindimbit. Initially Blackwater Lakes, Mameri is known for its
Cletus’s house is a bit further upstream. the banks are crowded with pitpit. But jun- accomplished and dramatic carving.
There are various other people in nearby Wasui Lagoon gle soon takes over and the river becomes
Angoram who will provide travellers with Also known as Wagu Lagoon, this is a beau- more interesting, with abundant bird life and Blackwater Lakes
informal accommodation. tiful place, with many birds. The Hunstein attractive villages. To enter the Blackwater Lakes is to enter
The Angoram Hotel (%858 3011; s K100; a), Range is behind Wagu village and the area is a vast water world where villages are often
owned by Joe Kenni, a local bigman and poli- covered in lush rainforest. Wagu is cut off Amboin built on stilts and the people pole their canoes
tician, is in a pretty bad way – run down and during the dry season when lake levels drop. Amboin is usually reached by air and from through shallow, reed-clogged lakes. The bird
closed a lot of the time; very few people stay Kaku Yamzu (Mathew) operates the Toheyo the village it’s a short distance up the river life is incredible.
here. The rooms have air-con but only when Guesthouse (per person K25), a simple stilt house to the luxurious Karawari Lodge. The lodge As you get higher, away from the Sepik,
the generator is running. Joe also runs tours where you can sling your mosquito net and river trucks will take you to nearby villages the climate is cooler and the scenery becomes
and can recommend guides. unfurl your sleeping mat. Bring your own such as Maramba, Marvwak and Chimbut more spectacular.
food. Mathew’s tours include trips to see the where traditional Sepik-style tree houses are
Around Angoram bird-of-paradise display tree (K15), fishing still used. There are also tours that travel as Govermas
A good day trip is to go south on the Keram (K5) and crocodile spotting at night (K10). far as Kaminabit and some that stay in the A place of ‘dreamlike beauty’, Govermas
River to Kambot, stopping at either Magendo or villages. Singsings and re-enactments of the also has one of the most impressive haus
Chimondo on the way. These villages produce Chambri Lakes Mangamai skin-cutting ceremonies are all tambarans in the region and some excellent
fantastic art – Kambot is the home to the The Chambri Lakes are a vast and beautiful part of the deal. Special tours for bird-watch- carving. It’s about one hour by motor-canoe
Sepik storyboards. The river is narrow and expanse of shallow water. Being only 4m deep, ers to the Yimas Lakes can be organised. from Mameri. If you get as far as this, it’s
winding, and the banks are crowded with lux- they partially empty in the dry season when The Karawari Lodge (%542 1438 Mt Hagen; www worth going on to see Lake Govermas and the
uriant growth and ibis. There’s informal ac- things get smelly and the water is unfit for .pngtours.com; per person all-inclusive s/tw US$499/402) village of Anganmai, on top of a hill. Lake
commodation at the culture house in Kambot. drinking unless treated. The area was once is a luxury base, operated by Trans Niugini Govermas is surrounded by low hills, moun-
Further south on the Keram is Yip, and a beau- a fortress of floating weed-islands but these Tours, for exploring the Sepik near Amboin. tains, dense forest and three beautiful vil-
tiful rainforest with plenty of birds. have been eaten by the voracious pacu (p177), The main building, built in the style of a haus lages. On a tributary at the very south of
Another day trip from Angoram goes to an introduced South American fish. tambaran with impressive carved totem poles Lake Govermas is Mariama which has a good
Moim and Kambaramba and some beautiful la- Indabu is one of the four villages that make and stools, is surrounded by 20 mosquito- haus tambaran.
goons. Further south on a tributary is Wom. up Chambri region. There is a haus tambaran
The Murik Lakes are about four hours away and here with a huge collection of carvings in the
there’s accommodation in Mendam. polished Chambri style, as well as ornamental
spears. Aibom, another village on the lakes,
TRIBUTARIES & LAKES produces pottery and has a large stone said
The Sepik River becomes monotonous as it to be that of a woman who turned to stone
winds through its vast, flat plain, with pitpit resisting a snake who was trying to drag her
up to the water’s edge. The most spectacular into the water.
scenery is on the tributaries and the villages With the help of French anthropologist
are generally smaller, friendlier and less vis- Nicolas Garnier and international funding,
ited. There are three main accessible tributar- there is a new haus tambaran in Wombun.
ies in the Lower Sepik – the Keram, the Yuat The four main totems here are eagles, flying
THE SEPIK
THE SEPIK
and the smaller Nagam. foxes, rats and crocodiles. Although there is © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
no guesthouse many guides bring tourists restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
May (Iwa) River here to stay with their wantoks.
This is a small town more than halfway from When the water is deep enough there are only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Ambunti to the West Papuan border. There’s various routes and shortcuts to Chambri al- everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
an airstrip and a mission settlement. It’s pos- though you’ll need a guide to find them. The the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
Ri
Hi Fin Bogadjim
di i ver
Mu gh Wabag
ver
(3353m) Usino i st
WESTERN Mt Wilhelm
R
ENGA Saidor
ll
er
la
nd
s
Porgera
PROVINCE HIGHLANDS (4509m) er
re Moresby and Kerema (K459) daily except
er
Koroba
Hw
PROVINCE R MADANG PROVINCE Ra
n
Sunday. Flights continue to Balimo (K574,
Riv y a ge
Ra
Ningerum Mt Karoma Tari
(3623m) Highlands n Monday and Friday), Kikori (K390, daily
ng
Hw g
Fly
Mt Hagen
r
y e Teptep except Sunday), Daru (K571, Monday and
e
e Goroka
Strickland Riv
Ekame SOUTHERN Kundiawa Chauve
Kiunga Lodge
aR HIGHLANDS Nipa Mendi
Watarais Friday), Mt Hagen (K541, Thursday) and
ar d River
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊ ᎊ ᎊᎊ
El
ev
No
ma
PROVINCE Gumine MOROBE Kiunga (via Lake Murray, Obo and Suki on
W
Kar SIMBU PROVINCE
ag
Henganofi
Nomad Poroma
Saturday). At the time of research Airlines
a
Moro Uma PROVINCE
Ri
Ma
Ra
er
EASTERN HIGHLANDS
r
ve
mu
ive
Great
PNG had indefinitely suspended many serv-
Riv
rkh
Mt Bosavi Lake PROVINCE
Kaim R
Papuan Hw
am
(2397m) Kutubu Pimaga y
ices to smaller airstrips; however, it may be
Fly
Plateau Rive
Leo r
nar er erNadzab
Lake Kaim dM Ri
v
Mt Tabletop Riv Airport worth enquiring about flights if you are of
Lae
tut
Lake Murray ur re
ra Au Wonenara (3686m) the Indiana Jones ilk.
Wa
y Ki Mt Murray
Ra ko
ᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊ ᎊ ᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ
ng
es
ri
Ri
(2254m)
ver Ke re r u
MOROBE North Coast Aviation (%648 1230) flies three
PROVINCE
Gu
Lake Murray Ra
Tu times a week from Kerema to Lae (K417) via
Wawa
Track
aR
ive ve
r
Menyamya
Aseki
Bulolo
Kamina (K171), Kaintiba (K204), Kanabea
i River
Ri Wau
Riv
r
Kanabea
Kaintiba (K204) and Menyamya (K252) although
er
Edie Creek
Era
Track
Kikori Kamina
Hidden Valley Black Cat the exact route varies with who wants to get
INDONESIA
Baimuru
Pu
WESTERN PROVINCE
Vailala
Mine
off where.
rar
og
lld
iR
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊ ᎊᎊᎊᎊ
Hevi Lift (%648 1230) also operates a Monday
Ar
Bu
Mt Lawson
ive
River
am
Blackwood I (2722m)
r
Fly Tekadu
flight to and from Moresby and Kikori, and a
i
Ri Ihu
a
u
Maclatchie Mt Strong
ver am
Lake Balimo Point Kerema (3588m) to Kerema on Thursday.
Ri akek
Saru Bell Point Malalaua CENTRAL
Naviu I Uapumba I PMVs travel the Hiritano Hwy (p84) on
L
Kukipi PROVINCE
Goe
Dibiri I Iokea
Olapu
Mt Yule a good year between Port Moresby’s Erima
Wabudu I (3276m)
ᎊ ᎊᎊᎊ
ᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊᎊ ᎊᎊ
Botar
Purutu I bus stop and Kerema (five hours, daily). The
M
or road, however, is in dire need of some TLC
Ben
eh
ea Buk
and currently vehicles are only able to get
s
ive Kapal
h
Ri
Weam
r
Samari I Yule I Agivairu as far as Malalaua (K20, four hours), from
Mibu I Hi
ve
r Morehead
Arufe
rit
an where you will have to catch a dinghy (K50,
o wy
Bensbach
Sibidiri
Parama I Cape
Suckling
H two hours). Don’t risk travelling in stormy
Daru Hisiu
Bullo Bristow I weather, and be sure to pick up some mud
Daru I crabs at the mouth of the river before crossing
Torres Strait Boigu I the bay to Kerema.
day; village or mission food and accommoda- journey into the interior, however, it does invaluable information on the surrounding AROUND GULF PROVINCE
tion are pretty much it. have a useful couple of trade stores, including areas; they can also contact other Catholic The vast mangrove swamps and mountains
Ning’s Trading (%648 1061), a Bank South Pacific lodges and link you with locals who can act are the main attraction of the Gulf Province.
KEREMA (%648 1025) that can cash travellers cheques as guides. You can take any direction and go from vil-
Kerema may be the provincial capital and and (if the telephone lines are operational) Lavai Hotel (Hotel Kerema; %648 1396; fax 648 lage to village, eating sago and sleeping in
one of the largest towns this side of Port give out cash on credit cards. Other town 1397; s/d incl breakfast K170/210) This place offers a local homes. The villagers are famous for their
Moresby but there is precious little bustle amenities include a police station and a post simple, no-frills arrangement – fridge, TV, friendliness (post head-hunting days) and it
in the hustle to downtown Kerema. What office (%648 1028). bed and tea-/coffee-making facilities and can be difficult to get away. If you plan on
is there can be found clustered around the that’s about it. The restaurant on occasion walking anywhere it’s best to take a guide.
central footy field, a 30-minute walk uphill Sleeping & Eating can rustle up one of the region’s famous The missionaries in Kerema should be able
from the wharf. Although it may be hard to Catholic Mission (%648 1012; dm incl breakfast & din- mud crabs and the bakery makes delicious to help with guides and reliable boat men.
believe, Kerema was primarily selected as ner K85) Cleanliness may be next to godliness, cream buns. Alternatively, Tony Malaisa from the Kerema
the provincial capital because of its climate – but this adage isn’t embraced at the Catholic Alternatively ask at Hearo Alex Trading, Educational Services office at the Kerema
it is comparatively drier than elsewhere in Mission. The shared facilities need more than which was in the process of building a guest- Catholic Mission compound (opposite) may
the province. a decent scrub. Do yourself a favour and house when we passed through or, at a pinch, be able to help.
Apart from its friendly people, there is don’t be tempted to peel back the bed sheets. the Salvation Army (%648 1384) or the Missions of From Kerema you can head west to Ihu,
little else to recommend it. As a stop on a However the staff are friendly and can provide Charity (%648 1089). via Donbosco Arimiri Secondary School
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
Malalaua
WESTERN PROVINCE but some sailors moor here en route be-
tween Australia and PNG. The best con-
The only passenger boat to call here is un-
reliably operated by Pacific Frontline Trading
There is no reason to stop in Malalaua other The majority of the province consists of tact is Max, the manager of the Kuki Hotel (p201) on a monthly schedule.
than if your PMV from Port Moresby (K20, an inhospitable flood plain which borders (below), who can arrange fishing trips in the
four hours) arrives too late for you to catch an Indonesia’s West Papua and receives little mangroves for barramundi and black bass. AROUND WESTERN PROVINCE
onward dingy to Kerema (K50, two to three rainfall in itself. Instead the massive Fly Rates vary from about K600 to K3000 for a Tabubil
hours). The PMV stop is actually 1km east of River system and its tributaries, including two-day trip (depending on how much fuel Tabubil dances to the tune of Ok Tedi, and
Malalaua in a village called Sapeahora (‘head the Strickland and Ok Tedi Rivers, are fed you use). the town exists purely to support the vast
of the crocodile’) on the river bank. There is by the far wetter Highlands. Olsobip, one There’s a Bank South Pacific (%645 9062), but gold and copper mine 30km to the north-
a small market here and boats usually depart of the northernmost stations in the prov- bring some cash with you. west. You may have to pinch your travelling
around 2pm for Kerema. If you miss the last ince, could well be one of the wettest places companion to remind yourself that you are
boat your official accommodation options are on earth with a rainfall in excess of 10m a Sleeping & Eating still in PNG. The orderly rows of Australian-
zilch. We stayed with local Rastafarian Alex year – although this has never been scien- Kuki Hotel (% 645 9476; [email protected]; style housing, footpaths, street signs and
Naime and his extended family. Alex has a tifically established as there is no weather r K120/170; ai) The cheaper rooms have roads free from potholes makes it seem like
disused shipping container which he allows station here. share facilities, while the self-contained the last bastion of Western civilisation in an
people to sleep in and can rig you a mosquito The far west sees few tourists but is rooms are more comfortable and come apocalyptic film.
net and provide a thin mattress. He doesn’t slowly gaining a worldwide reputation as with TV and phone. The hotel’s Crayfish Tabubil has dreadful weather. It was rain-
charge but you should leave a monetary gift a bird-watching destination (near Kiunga) Restaurant (open 6am to 8am, noon to ing when we arrived and it was raining when
which is customary in such circumstances. and a fishing mecca (in the Tonda Wildlife 1.30pm and 6.30pm to 8pm) serves tasty we left. When asked how long it had been
His house is 50m before the bridge. Management Area – for those who can food at fair prices. raining, a local replied ‘seven months’. When
Malalaua is at the southern end of the afford it). New Century Hotel (% 645 9169; newcentury@ we later asked him how long had he lived in
WWII-era Bulldog Track (p137), although The local economy revolves around the daltec.com; s/d K198/308, incl meals K253/418; a) The Tabubil he replied, ‘seven months’.
this walk is better accessed from the other end Ok Tedi mine (opposite), which accounts for only other option in town, the rooms here Tabubil has a post office, well-equipped
near Wau, in Morobe Province. over half of the entire province’s economy are clean and comfortable although unin- hospital, pharmacy and supermarkets in a
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
complex near the centre of town. Westpac Vanimo (Wednesday, K600), Tari (Thursday,
(% 548 9169) has a branch where you can K440), Mt Hagen (once a week) and Telefomin BIRDS OF A FEATHER
withdraw money against your credit card. (five times a week, K150). If you find bird-watching boring you may be forced to reconsider that position after a visit to
ATMs are coming soon. The road to Kiunga is serviced by PMVs Papua New Guinea. Even those who have trouble identifying a chicken, except when it’s quartered,
Like Kiunga, the bird life in the valleys (K20, three hours) that leave Tabubil at about roasted and served with a side of chips, have been caught singing the praises of New Guinea’s
around Tabubil is quite amazing – there are 7am and again at 10am; the hotel can arrange avian star – the bird of paradise.
more than 10 species of birds of paradise. for one to pick you up. Birds of paradise are the drag queens of the animal kingdom – strutting their stuff in vividly
Most birders engage Samuel Kepuknai (right) coloured feathers and finery. Impossibly long tail feathers, iridescent breast shields, flashy capes,
from Kiunga as a guide. Kiunga head ribbons and fleshy neck wattles are all part of their outlandish costumes. Some cavort in
The river port of Kiunga is the most north- crowds, sashaying from one branch to the next in unbridled vanity, while others prefer to shake
SLEEPING & EATING ern navigable point on the Fly River and the their tail feathers on specially prepared stages called leks.
There are only two accommodation options start of the Kiunga–Tabubil Hwy, the only There are a number of places all over the country where it is relatively easy to see birds of
in town and both are often full. all-weather road in the province. Slurries of paradise, but keep your expectations realistic. Those kaleidoscopic dances are reserved for disin-
Palace Tabubil (%548 9108; fax 548 9107; dm K50- copper concentrate from the Ok Tedi mine are terested females – usually high in a tree, obscured by branches and silhouetted by the rising sun.
90, r K150-225) Recently Tabubil Engineering sent here to the waiting barges along a 137km If your photos don’t quite cut it, check out the July 2007 National Geographic article at www7
has allowed travellers to stay in their dunga pipeline which runs parallel to the highway. .nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0707/feature3.
(company-owned accommodation in a large Bank South Pacific (%548 1073) has a branch in PNG has one more ornithological oddity (and besides, every campy drama needs a butch
compound opposite the General Hospital). Kiunga, but carry any money you’ll need. villain). Enter stage left, the world’s only poisonous bird – the pitohui. Little is known about the
The rooms are freshly painted and some have pitohui but the steroidal alkaloids found on its feathers are chemically identical to those found
kitchenettes, a TV and fridge. The friendly ACTIVITIES on poison dart frogs.
ladies who work here will find you a two- In recent years Kiunga has become a popular
burner stove if you are staying in a cheaper destination for bird-watchers, mainly due to
room. Book first at the office. the expertise of Samuel Kepuknai, an unas- Ekame Lodge (%548 1451; [email protected]; GETTING THERE & AROUND
Hotel Cloudlands (%548 9277; cloudlands@online suming but passionate naturalist who’s an r per person K45, 3 meals K70) Guide Samuel PMVs to Tabubil (K20) leave around mid-
.net.pg; Newman Rd; s K132-330, d K154-385; asi) expert on where to find the region’s birds. Kepuknai (see opposite) runs this lodge on morning: the metal road is well maintained
There are three types of rooms (budget, stand- Contact him at Kiunga Nature Tours (%548 the banks of the Elevara River, about three by the mine. Town is a 30-minute walk from
ard and executive) and all are clean, if a lit- 1451; [email protected]) to arrange tours hours by boat from Kiunga. This village-style the airport. Hotels provide transfers.
tle uninspiring. Internet costs an exorbitant up the Fly River or day trips from Tabubil. place was built specifically for bird-watching. Airlines PNG (%548 1257) flies everyday (ex-
K2.50 per minute. The bar and restaurant He charges about K200 per group, per day Samuel virtually guarantees you’ll see the 12- cept Sunday) to Port Moresby (K925) and
(meals K20 to K35, open 5.15am to 9.30pm) plus transport. wired bird of paradise, king bird of paradise, Mt Hagen (K614). It flies three times a week
cater mainly to the tastes of the expats here The best birding is between April and white-bellied pitohui, little paradise king- to Daru (K746) and Lae (K875). MAF (%548
on mining business. October when it’s drier and the birds are fisher and flame bowerbird, among others. 1203) has flights to southern airstrips includ-
In the shopping centre there are a couple beginning their breeding cycles. Bring some The return boat trip costs K350. ing Lake Murray and Daru. It also operates
of bakeries and some kai bars . You can also rubber boots for walking in the mud. Kiunga Guesthouse (% 548 1084; manager@ a weekly flight to Tari via some truly remote
eat at the nine-hole Tabubil Golf Club (%548 8181; ningerum.com.pg; s K150-290, d K240-400) The budget stations.
hlunch & dinner) and drink at the Star Mountains SLEEPING & EATING and basic rooms share the common bathroom, The barges at the wharf will not take
Hash House Harriers Club (%6pm-midnight Mon, Wed, Kiunga has more places to sleep and eat, while the more expensive self-contained travellers.
Fri & Sat). and caters to a wider range of budgets rooms are very comfortable with cable TV
than Tabubil. and spacious layouts. Rates include meals
GETTING THERE & AROUND Bamboo Lodge (%548 1148; s/d K75/100) Don’t and laundry. The restaurant (meals K15 to Tonda Wildlife Management Area
Be prepared to be stranded in Tabubil. The expect anything beyond a bed and a table. K30; open 6am to 8am, noon to 1.30pm and Tropical Papua New Guinea isn’t usually
planes can’t land when the cloud and rain Pretty grim. 6.30pm to 8.30pm) also serves home-cooked associated with savanna woodlands, yet the
obscure the runway – this is most days. Many meals to nonguests. New Guinea savannas cover approximately
locals prefer to fly from Kiunga; the weather Lobira Hotel (% 548 1127; [email protected]; 2.5 million hectares across the PNG and
is better there, the valley broader and, subse- ONE FOR YOU, ONE FOR ME r K195-250) There is no sign but you can’t miss Indonesia border. The monsoonal savannas
quently, the flights more reliable. There is a peculiar way of shaking hands this large, apricot-coloured building opposite of the Transfly Region become extensive,
Airlines PNG (%548 9171; [email protected]; airport) around Tabubil and Kiunga. It starts in nor- the Kiunga Guesthouse. The self-contained shallow lake systems. Merauke, Bensbach
flies daily (except Sunday) to Port Moresby mal fashion but ends with a nifty little snap. rooms are smaller than those next door and Wassi Kussa Rivers in particular have
(K941) and Mt Hagen (K630) and alternat- At the conclusion of the handshake, leave a although the basic rooms are comparable. large seasonal lake systems that support large
ing days to Lae (K861) and Daru (K883). Air hooked finger extended. The other person Rooms have cable TV, air-con and a fridge. sedge grasslands and paperbark woodlands.
Niugini (%548 3109/3077; [email protected]; will clasp this with two of their own fingers Rates include meals and laundry (per per- The Tonda Wildlife Management Area was es-
town centre) operates under contract to Ok Tedi and when you both withdraw your fingers son). The restaurant (meals K20 to K30; tablished in 1975 to conserve 590,000 hec-
and most flights are not open to the public. It you’ll be able to ‘snap’ them against each open 6am to 8am, noon to 1.15pm and 6pm tares a of savanna, protect wildlife species
does, however, fly three times a week to Port other. Cool. to 8pm) cooks much the same style food as from overhunting and attract sustainable
Moresby (K949). MAF (%548 9025; airport) flies to next door. development.
GULF & WESTERN PROVINCES
© Lonely Planet Publications
208 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • A r o u n d W e s t e r n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com
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© Lonely Planet Publications
209
Island Provinces
How do you say Romancing the Stone in Tok Pisin? Largely untamed and raw, the islands of PNG
are not your classic beach paradise. Here you’ll live out your Indiana Jones fantasies, blazing
a trail of your own amid wild jungles. The adventure starts by climbing the volcanoes near
ISLAND PROVINCES
Rabaul, looking for WWII relics on the Gazelle Peninsula, staying in villages on New Ireland’s
east coast, paddling through lagoons mottled with pristine reefs near Kavieng, exploring the
rugged beauty of Bougainville or escaping to an island off Lavongai (New Hanover).
Be ready for a culture shock, too. These islands are home to tiny villages where people
lead lives that have changed little over centuries. Nowhere else in the Pacific (except, maybe,
in Vanuatu or the Solomon Islands) will the local cultures sweep you off your feet – just be
sure to brush up on your Melanesian etiquette before you go. If you plan a visit in July, try to
make it coincide with the authentic Warwagira Festival of masked dance.
The islands’ bounty goes beneath the surface, with its unbeatable repertoire of diving ad-
ventures. Shipwrecks, fish life in abundance and thriving reefs are the rewards of diving here.
Surfies rave about the uncrowded waves off New Ireland (but you didn’t hear it from us).
And then, once you’ve run out of stamina, opt for the trusted combination of a fruit cocktail,
a hammock and a good book – you’ve earned it.
HIGHLIGHTS
Squeezing yourself into a wetsuit to explore underwater treasures, scuba diving among the
world’s most fecund reefs in Kimbe Bay (p59) or plunging into the wreck-strewn waters of
Simpson Harbour (p219)
Scaling up extinct Kombiu (Mt Mother,
p223) and feasting your eyes on the
360 degree views of Rabaul, Gazelle
Lavongai (New Hanover)
Peninsula and Mt Tavurvur
Relaxing with a book and a fresh coconut on New Ireland's
west coast
a blow-your-mind beach off Lavongai (New
Simpson Harbour; Kokopo
Hanover; p234) and getting a taste of outer Kombiu
island lifestyle Kimbe Bay
Bougainville
Earning your intrepid stripes in Bougainville
(p243), especially if you continue as an ‘end-
of-the-road’ traveller with a trip to more
remote places nearby
Reflecting on New Britain’s turbulent WWII occupation when you visit the East New Britain
Historical & Cultural Centre (p214) in Kokopo
Experiencing timeless traditional village life on New Ireland’s west coast (p237), staying in
homestays and watching the ancient art of shark calling
0 100 km
ISLAND PROVINCES 0 60 miles
ISLAND PROVINCES
Island Sohano I
Lenkau Naigasa Tinputz
New Matanasoi Taiof I Siara Cape L'Averdy NORTH
Cape Matanalem Sulaman I SOLOMONS
Lou I See Manus Province (960m) Taskul NEW
Umbukul Kavieng PROVINCE
Enlargement IRELAND Turumbal
Em anges
Lavongai Putput
TABAR IS
R
(Nono) PROVINCE Inus Point
per
(New Hanover) I Mangai Simberi I
Meteran Kunua
Lokono Panamafei
or
Selapiu I
Tatau I
Bougainville
Wuvulu I (Ninigo Group); Manus Province Baudissin I Kaut Wakunai
Ponam I Andra I Fangalawa Mabua Mahur I
Hermit Is Nusa Lik I Lavalai Mt Balbi
Boudeuse Tulu Ahus I Los Laraibina LIHIR GROUP Cape Mabiri
Ka'awa I Hawai I Lissenung I Namasalang Tabar I (2685m) Mapearo
Bay Negros I Bol Koripobi Mabiri
Sopa Sopa
Seeadler
Harbour
Dyaul I Bagatere
Panachais Fissoa Libba A Masahet I Mt Bagana
Head Liap Asilima (1730m)
Sori S c Konos r Londolovit Morgan Arawa Bay
Cr
Lessau Lombrum Cape Timeis h l Lambuso Dalom Bay Junction Tautsina I
Buyang Lorengau e
ow
Lihir I
Manus I Lamusmus Tembin n i Malom Torokina Kieta
c
Bipi I
n
Kontu Arawa
Momote tz Kanam Empress
Pr
h
Worei Ri Loniu Ugana Ra Lelet Plateau Panguna Aropa
in
ve Messi Puroro Guest House TANGA IS Augusta Bay Orami
Passage
ce
r
i
ὄὄ
ὄὄ
Mt Dremsel Karu Bay Boang I Ra Mt Takuan
Loi Kalili Plantation Motupena ng
p
Sapondralis Malai (702m) Konogogo Karu Malendok I Point es (2210m) Toimonapu
Bay Patusi M'bunai
e
Southwest Lokabia Kokola Boku
Bay Point Bay S New Ireland Namatanai
l
Western Is & I Uluputur
Petersen Reefs Labur Bay
a
(50km) 0 50 km
0 30 miles Fedarb Kabanut Aku Ovau I
g
Sosuruya Buin
Y Group B I S M A R C K Malabita
DUKE OF Pakabong Samo Kangu
o
T See Gazelle FENI IS
H an
Lou I YORK GROUP Warangansau
MANUS M'Buke I L Rei Peninsula Map Muliana Fauro I
A S E A
PROVINCE R (pp214–15) Suralil Danfu Ambitle I Babase
sM
M I Cape Manga
A D Kamdaru I SOLOMON
eyeKam
Lambert Lassul Shortland I ISLANDS
Pam I Wapi
r R dar ro n
Rabaul
R
To Mwilitau Keravat Kokopo
an u
To Sherburne KabisalaoVe
(Purdy) Is r Rei
ge W Ra
Baluan I & Circular
(30km) Reefs (80km) Kait (2399m)
Malabonga Taron
(2021m)
e
Silur
itin
R
Garove I Pondo Warango St Georges Lik Siar
Mt Sinewit Channel Liki Icad Maliom
(1360m) Lamassa I
WITU IS Toriu Merai
Open Bulayang Lambom I
Lolobau I Ailo Mt Biririnia
Unea I Bay Cape
Tol (685m) St George
Bali Ubili
Willaumez Baia Marunga
Peninsula Lake Dakataua Wide
Mt Uluwun
Mt Wangore Kimbe I Ulamona (The Father) Bay
(1155m) (2334m)
s
Kimbe Bay Bubu
tn
Tolokiwa I Kalip
Ewasse
o
Talasea Sampun
Bialla
Sakar I
i
Hoskins Tarobi
a
Gloucester Garu n
g
Walindi
ka
Pomio
Bambak Dauli Koimumu a Matong
Sag Sag Mt Talawe Mt Garbuna Gig Mt Pago N a
Nukuhu Kimbe Jacquinot
Kampalap (1824m) (742m) Malmal Bay
Siassi Mt Andewa Mosa
Vi Ubai EAST l
t i Bairaman NEW BRITAIN
Yangla Aisega Lau
az (2027m) e
M iver
Pu PROVINCE
Ani
Wh
R
elk
Ri
oi
a
tr ver Ri
ve p S O L O M O N S E A
r
i
a WEST
ve
r
Al
i Wasum
NEW BRITAIN Uvol New Britain i
t
S O L O M O N S E A Lontis
Buka I
212 N E W B R I TA I N • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 213
ISLAND PROVINCES
cloaked with virgin tropical rainforest. Some lished settlements in the Duke of York Islands Harbour area is about 2000mm. The dry sea- of well-organised accommodation options,
are dormant and harmless while others are and Blanche Bay. The area was renowned for son is between mid-April and November. banks, government services, a couple of in-
scrappy villains that periodically flex their cannibalism. More missionaries were eaten ternet cafés and lots of businesses, but there
muscles. In September 1994 Mt Tavurvur than heathens converted in some districts. Culture are no big-ticket sights.
and Mt Vulcan erupted and destroyed most On 3 November 1884 a German protector- Most of the 184,000 people in ENB are If you come from mainland PNG, Kokopo
of Rabaul, one of PNG’s biggest and most ate was declared and the German New Guinea Tolai who share many cultural similarities is a good base to set your body clock to
alluring cities, in a furious rain of ash and Company assumed authority, which it held with southern New Irelanders. Traditional Island time, get your bearings and make
rock (see boxed text, p222). until 1914 when Australian troops landed enemies of the Tolai (see opposite), the semi- the most of the infrastructure before head-
When the raw nature on land has finished at Kabakaul. nomadic Baining people of the mountains ing out to rougher areas found in the New
working its magic on you, be sure to don mask At the end of WWI, the German plant- perform fire dances, which are a spectacular Guinea islands.
and tank to explore New Britain’s sensational ers had their plantations expropriated and event. Gigantic bark-cloth masks with empha-
watery surrounds. To say that Kimbe Bay of- were shipped back to Germany. Meanwhile sised eyes and features are worn by dancers ORIENTATION
fers world-class dive sites is an understate- Australians evacuated German residences, who walk on, and eat, red-hot coals. A coastal road runs around Blanche Bay, from
ment. Rabaul’s harbour and the various bays but not for long. Secret male societies play an important Tokua airport through Kokopo to Rabaul.
that carve out the Gazelle Peninsula also host In 1937 the Vulcan and Tavurvur volcanoes role in village life, organising ceremonies The town is strung along this coastal road
superlative sites, such as wrecks and psyche- erupted, killing 507 people and causing enor- and maintaining customary laws. Tolai cer- on the waterfront. At its western end are the
delic coral reefs. There is one proviso, though: mous damage. Before this eruption, Vulcan emonies feature leaf-draped, anonymous picturesque lawns of the golf course.
don’t expect to find lots of secluded white- had been a low, flat Island hundreds of metres figures topped by masks – tumbuans and
sand scimitars. Idyllic beaches are not New offshore. It had appeared from nowhere dur- dukduks, which are constructed deep in the INFORMATION
Britain’s strong point. ing an 1878 blast (and had been immediately bush under tremendous taboo. He who dances ANZ (Williams Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri)
New Britain is divided into two prov- planted with coconuts). When the 1937 erup- in the mask is no longer himself, but rather A new building located in the centre. Has a guarded ATM
inces; each has its distinctive feel. East New tions ceased, Vulcan was a massive mountain the collective kastom (custom) of the tribe’s (Visa, MasterCard), open from 7am to 7pm.
Britain (ENB) Province ends in the Gazelle attached to the coast. long history. The most feared spirits are the Bank South Pacific (Williams Rd; h9am-3pm Mon-
Peninsula where there has been lengthy con- In 1941 Rabaul was completely crushed by masalais, which are spirits of the bush and Thu, 9am-4pm Fri) Expect interminable queues inside. Has
tact with Europeans, education levels are the advancing Japanese. At the peak of the war, water that live in certain rock pools and dewel four guarded ATMs (Visa only), open from 6am to 7pm.
high and the people are among the most 97,000 Japanese troops were stationed on the pleses (thickets). Central.
economically advantaged in the country. The Gazelle Peninsula. But the Allies never came. Shell money retains its cultural signifi- East New Britain Tourist Bureau (%982 8657;
other end of the Island, West New Britain More than 20,000 tons of Allied bombs rained cance for the Tolai and is used mostly for fax 983 7070; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) At ENB Historical &
(WNB) Province, is sparsely populated, lit- down upon the peninsula, keeping the remain- bride price (p36). Little shells are strung on Cultural Centre. Pretty much useless.
tle developed and did not come into serious ing Japanese forces underground and impotent. lengths of cane and bound together in great Loyrip Holdings LTD (Williams Rd; %982 9312; per
contact with Europeans until the 1960s. The When the war ended, they were still there. rolls called loloi. hr K42; h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Internet
migrant workers from the Highlands, the On 19 September 1994 Tavurvur and café with CD burning and printing facilities, located beside
‘colonial’-flavoured expats and the dense Vulcan re-awoke with relatively little warn- EAST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE Taklam Lodge; has the quickest connections in PNG islands
bush give WNB the flavour that the east ing, utterly destroying Rabaul (see boxed text, A basic network of coastal roads and two (when it’s not too cloudy). Two flat-screen computers
might have had mid-last century. It’s a fron- p222). Only two people died but 50,000 people towns make this the most developed prov- only.
tier country with many colourful, roguish lost their homes and one of PNG’s most de- ince in the New Guinea islands. With the Police (%982 8222)
Queenslanders escaping the more regulated veloped and picturesque cities was flattened once-beautiful city of Rabaul levelled by the Post Office (h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri)
life ‘back home’. again. In the following weeks, buildings volcanic eruptions of 1994, Kokopo is now Telikom (h8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, to 3.30pm Fri) Sells
The most easily accessible areas for travel- creaked under the weight of the falling ash and the main centre. Between the two, a strip of phonecards.
lers include the Gazelle Peninsula and Kimbe collapsed. There was widespread looting. villages hug the shore of Blanche Bay. Behind Yudrowet Internet Cafe (per hr K25; h8am-4.30pm
Bay. If you want to explore the rest of the Today, the region’s seismic activity is them, beyond the copra plantations and the Mon-Fri) Near Taklam Lodge.
Island, then you’ll have to cut a path of your measured more conscientiously than ever occasional town, the Baining Mountains Zoma Medical Clinic (Williams Rd; %982 9356, after
own, which means a lot of gumption, time and the vulcanology observatory posts regu- give way to a green expanse of bush and hr 982 9718; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) Private
and money. lar bulletins. Tavurvur’s spectacular emissions volcanic peaks. clinic, east of the centre.
214 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 215
0 800 m (betel nut) and its condiments, daka (mus- plus is the rambling garden, frequented by
KOKOPO 0 0.5 miles
tard stick) and cumbung (mineral lime, which humming birds, and there’s lots of greenery.
A B C D looks rather like cocaine in its little plastic There’s some solid value here, even if the place
wraps) account for half of the stalls, with pro- is out of the centre and the decorations may
duce, such as fruit, vegetables, smoked fish strike you as a little drab. Our tip: skip the
1
and crabs accounting for the remainder. At meals (served upon request, K27), and enjoy
United
Church the rear, tobacco growers sell dried leaves; a slap-up dinner at the atmospheric Rapopo
homemade cigars wrapped with sticky tape Plantation Resort (p216) instead, about 500m
To
Rabaul
W
illi
am
at the mouth-end sell for 30t each. to the east along the beach. On the road to
s
(30km) Rd
Queen Fancy diving? Rapopo Dive (%982 9901; www.rap the airport (take PMV 8). Free pick-up from
Emma's
10 Steps opoplantationresort.com; Rapopo Plantation Resort) based the airport.
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
17
Golf
Course at Rapopo Plantation Resort (p216) offers a Vavagil Guesthouse (%982 9417, 982 8883; vava
range of day trips (one dive/two dives/open- [email protected]; s K94-121, d K105-165; a) This is
Blanche Bay water course K180/350/1000). Equipment what we scribbled on our notepad when we
3
2
7
rental is K175. It’s an excellent centre that has dropped by: ‘pokey rooms, spongy beds, not
professional staff. For information on diving much natural light, low ceilings, lino floors,
in the area, see p58. well-scrubbed bathrooms, safe location’. It is
12
15
The beaches around Kokopo are nothing to a reliable choice for cash-conscious travel-
write home about. If you’re after that perfect lers. If you’re a light sleeper, avoid the annex
4 beach or a good snorkelling spot, it’s worth at Vavagil restaurant, which has five more
11
19
To Zoma Medical Clinic (1km);
Queen Emma Lodge (1.5km);
considering taking a day trip to the Duke of rooms (same layout) that open onto the din-
6 St
Niugini Helicopters (1.6km);
Seaview Beach Resort (3.9km);
York Islands (p224). ing area and the bar (prepare for noise!). Free
a
Be
rri
m Rapopo Plantation Resort (4.5km);
Rapopo Dive (4.5km); airport transfers.
16 Tokua Airport (10km)
TOURS Taklam Lodge (%982 8870; www.taklam.com.pg;
St
3 INFORMATION 20
14
ell
ANZ.............................................1 C3 5 9
Rd
Taklam Lodge (right) and Kokopo Beach Williams Rd; s/d without bathroom K99/130, s with bathroom
Ellw
AdimaS
t
ining
Cemetery
Cultural Centre....................... 7 B2 Chopsticks Restaurant..............(see 11) Just outside Vunapope, Niugini Helicopters vary considerably in shapes and sizes, so check
Market.........................................8 C3 Haus Win...................................(see 9)
Queen Emma's House.............(see 17) Kokopo Village Resort..............(see 10)
(%982 9422; 15min flight K1200, maximum 5 people) out a few before settling in (try to nab one at
4 Supa Bake Kai Bar......................14 C3 offers helicopter flights over Mt Tavurvur the back for quietness). Those ones upstairs
SLEEPING Vavagil Restaurant.....................15 C2
Kokopo Beach Bungalows............9 D3 TRANSPORT and Mt Vulcan. are sunnier. Another plus is the excellent local
Kokopo Village Resort................10 B2 DRINKING Air Niugini................................. 18 D3 information and tours. Rates include a mea-
Taklam Lodge............................11 C3 Kadat Nite Club.........................16 C3 Banana Boats.............................19 C3
Vavagil Guesthouse....................12 B2 Ralum Country Club...................17 B2 PMV Stop..................................20 C3 FESTIVALS & EVENTS gre breakfast. Same management as Kokopo
The Warwagira Festival (first two weeks of July) Beach Hotel (p216).
is a great occasion, in the last three days of Kokopo Village Resort (%982 9096; www.koko
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Duke of York Islands in 1878 before extending which dukduks and tumbuans (masked for- poresort.com.pg; Williams Rd; s K100-127, d K154; ai)
The rewarding East New Britain Historical & her empire to include plantations, trade stores est spirits; dukduks are the taller ones) come ‘Tropical, convenient, fascinating’, says the
Cultural Centre (%982 8453; admission K2; h9am-5pm and ships. Don’t hold your breath; there’s not out of the sea from canoes at dawn to dance. website. We’d go for ‘functional, unmemo-
Mon-Sat) has a tremendous collection of histori- much to see of Gunantambu, her grand home, At night, Baining fire dancers perform, fire rable, serviceable’, despite brave attempts at
cal objects, photographs and many Japanese which was ruined in WWII. walking in huge masks, with a live snake. introducing a few decorative touches, such
WWII relics. The Tok Pisin documents is- The best place to soak up the atmosphere Call the ENB Tourist Bureau (p213) or one as traditional masks in the reception area. It
sued to Allied airmen are accompanied by is the waterfront, where banana boats (speed of the hotels to confirm the date and the exact consists of a series of two-storey buildings that
translations instructing the reader to obey boats) pull up on the east end of the beach, location (it takes place either in Kokopo or have red corrugated rooves, an onsite restau-
the white men who fell from the sky. Most and their drivers wait for a fare or go fishing. in Rabaul). rant and a ‘business centre’. The cheaper, boxy
poignant is the courageous role played by the These boats come and go from all over the rooms beside the reception are best avoided;
locals in a war whose origins were completely province, the Duke of Yorks and New Ireland. SLEEPING it’s worth stretching the pennies for the much
alien to them. The operators usually sleep through the mid- Seaview Beach Resort (Map pp218-19;%982 8447; seaview more appealing deluxe rooms.
When you’re done with the museum, day heat under the big trees or gather in small [email protected]; s K90, d K120-176; ai) Sea Queen Emma Lodge (%982 9206, 982 9465; queen
head to the site of Queen Emma’s house, located groups, playing cards and string-band music view? What sea view? You must have chewed [email protected]; s K275-297, d K325-347; a)
right where the road terminates at the Ralum on their salty ghetto blasters. The buzzing a lot of betel nut if you can catch a glimpse ‘Overwater balcony, in the heart of Kokopo
Country Club. Emma Forsayth, from Samoa, Kokopo market (Williams Rd; hclosed Sun) is also of the sea from your room through the thick Town’, says the leaflet. Truth is, most rooms
started a trading business at Mioko in the well worth a stroll. It’s best on Saturday. Buai foliage. And the beach is only so-so. The real face the bay, but a row of healthy coconut
216 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 217
trees limits the views, and it’s 1km east of the Steak House (%982 9206; mains K15-40; hbreak- Rapopo Plantation Resort (%982 9944; mains K20- GETTING THERE & AWAY
centre. If you can forgive the misleading slo- fast, lunch & dinner) Carnivores, rejoice: this well- 65; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) The standard-bearer Air
gan, this is a reliable standby in an attractive regarded eatery located at Queen Emma of Kokopo’s resort restaurants remains a great The KokopoRabaul area is serviced by Tokua
property, and there are a range of tidy, size- Lodge brims with deliciously prepared rump, venue for quality cooking with a dash of flair. airport, 10km east of Kokopo. Look out for
able rooms, a good restaurant and a bar. The eye fillet, T-Bone and sirloin steaks. If you’ve The sheer novelty of finding good pasta (car- the three murals of (from left to right) Tolai,
wood-panelled Deluxe rooms are well worth had your fill of animal proteins, pizzas are also bonara, bolognese, marinara) in PNG doesn’t Pomio and Baining dancers as you get off
the extra cost, especially rooms 20 to 22 and available. Lunch is easier on the wallet (and wear off fast. Lobster, mud crab, burgers, grills the plane. Air Niugini (Kokopo %982 9033; Tokua
26 to 28. A new wing with budget rooms was on the stomach), when fish and chips, and and daily specials round off the fun. The allur- Airport %983 9325) has one to two daily flights
being built when we visited. sandwiches are on offer. The décor, enlivened ing terrace is ideal for alfresco dining. to Port Moresby (K673, two hours) and flights
oKokopo Beach Hotel (%982 8788, 982 with wooden floor and artefacts, creates a Other worthwhile considerations: to Hoskins (K330, 35 minutes, once daily).
8789; [email protected]; r incl breakfast mildly exotic atmosphere that encourages a Andersons Foodland (Williams Rd; snacks K3-9; There are also flights to Kavieng (K335, 40
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
K330-365; ai) Being a little Island of sub- long, relaxed dinner. h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) This supermarket minutes, three weekly) and to Buka (K390,
dued glamour, this well-run establishment Chopsticks Restaurant (%982 8870; Williams Rd; is on the pricey side, but well stocked, including a wide 45 minutes, four weekly).
is the closest thing Kokopo has to a boutique mains K18-35; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This place selection of Australian imports. It also houses a neat Airlink used to fly to Kavieng via Lihir, and
hotel. It’s a short stagger from the rough and just defies logic. We still can’t figure out why kai bar (takeaway food bar; mains K4-10) just past the to Pomio and to Hoskins, but the airline was
tumble of the centre (but it’s so peaceful, you it has the same menu (and same prices) as the entrance, which rustles up tasty toasted sandwiches and out of the picture at the time of writing. Check
wouldn’t know it). The generous-sized, sensi- stylish Haus Win (same management). The stews. Good ice creams too. it out while you’re there – another airline
tively furnished rooms in the new wing score décor is far more appealing at the Haus Win Kadat Nite Club (snacks K2-7; h7am-2pm Mon-Sat) might have re-opened these routes.
high on creature comforts. The wood-carved and transfers are free, so there’s no point eating This hole-in-the-wall tosses up stews, fish and chips, and
bungalows scattered in the lush garden are here. Please change the marketing director! gargantuan rice balls. Boat
equally attractive. All units are graced with Haus Win (%982 8870; mains K18-35; hbreakfast, Ralum Country Club (barbecues K20; h7.30pm Wed & Banana boats tie up on the beach near the
sweet vistas over the bay and the beach (quiz: lunch & dinner) Top marks for this oasis which is Fri) The Friday barbecue is a great social event in Kokopo. post office and can be hired for trips to New
what colour is the sand?). There’s an excellent part of Kokopo Beach Hotel. High-quality Supa Bake Kai Bar (Williams Rd; mains K3-8; h6am- Ireland via the Duke of York Islands (K50, two
outdoor bar-restaurant. Enjoy. Chinese and Western cooking, a good selec- 3.30pm Mon-Sat) Fill your grumbling tummy without bat- hours). You can charter a banana boat just
Rapopo Plantation Resort (Map pp218-19; %982 tion of Australian tipples and a switched-on tering the wallet in this buzzing joint. It has a wide array of about anywhere (K100 plus petrol).
9944; www.rapopoplantationresort.com; s/d K335/365; ambience ensure plenty of regular customers chicken and beef dishes, as well as burgers and sandwiches.
ai) Some might say that this place is going among the expat community and local glit- GETTING AROUND
a bit overboard on the dark-wood panelling in terati. There are many highlights, including DRINKING Car
the two pavilions (we’re not in Finland), but a copious chow mein, prawn cutlets, Chinese A thriving nightlife scene in Kokopo, oh Daily 4WD hire (K240, plus K1.10 per kilo-
the whole place exudes Zen tranquillity and omelette and a few vegetarian options. One no no! But after a stay on other islands, metre) is costly. Add another K10 per hour
rustic charm. It’s right on the beach among downside: most desserts on the menu, in- where nightlife is almost non-existent, the for a driver (recommended). The following
fig and coconut trees and immaculate lawns. cluding a tempting sago pudding, were not town could almost pass itself off as a city companies have offices at Tokua airport.
Expect trim, amply-sized rooms with all mod available the day we ate there – so frustrating. of bacchanalia, with a couple of acceptable Avis (%983 9331, 982 8179)
cons, with the added lure of sweeping views of The dining area, designed with local materials, ‘hot spots’. Budget (%983 9391; fax 983 9392)
the bay and Mt Tavurvur. The wood-carved proffers lovely views over the bay. Ralum Country Club (hnoon-9pm Sat-Thu, to 2am Hertz (%982 9152, 983 9326; fax 982 9151)
posts on the terrace are a nice touch. Other Kokopo Village Resort (%982 9096; Williams Rd; Fri) Come here to soak up the atmosphere Travelcar (%982 9206, 983 9369; fax 982 9462)
perks include an onsite restaurant and a dive mains K20-45; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This restau- with a chilled beer in hand. The golf club-
centre (see p215). It’s a mellow and comfort- rant is simple but offers breathtaking views of house has a bar, darts and snooker. If you PMV
able place to stay, but it’s just a little too far the golf course and the bay from the veranda. want to enjoy a slice of Island life, don’t miss The main PMV stop is just across the main
from the action to call it perfect. With inoffensive pictures showing Tavurvur the weekly Joker Draw on Friday evening. road from the market. PMV 9, signed ‘Tokua’
volcano, blueish walls and chequered table- The veranda offers stupendous views of the on the windscreen, runs to the airport (K1.20,
EATING cloths, the dining room won’t make it into golf course and the sea. infrequent). This bus tends to meet the larger
And the nominees for the Oscar for the most the pages of Gourmet Traveller but the din- Kadat Nite Club (admission K10; hThu-Sat) Night Air Niugini flights. Guesthouses and hotels
flavoursome feeds are... ner menu showcases favourites such as filet owls swoop on Kokopo’s only real nightclub can provide transfers (K30).
Kokopo Market (Williams Rd; hclosed Sun) The mignon, lobster and grilled pork chops. on weekends, with people dancing, or sway- PMV 1 runs along the coast road past
place to head to if you want to stock up on Vavagil Restaurant (%982 9417; mains K20-45; ing, to a mix of reggae, sexy Island sounds the Karavia barge tunnel (K1.50), to Rabaul
fruit and vegetables, including big bunches of hlunch & dinner) If you’re after a cheap and and international hits. Male travellers, take (K2.50). Take PMV 2 to Warangoi (K3). PMV
taro. You can buy meat (or plantain) and rice filling meal, you could do a lot worse than note: ladies’ night is on Thursday. It’s cer- 3 goes to Vunadidir (K2) and Toma (K3),
wrapped in a banana leaf for K1.50. tuck into Vavagil’s sweet-and-sour pork or tainly not glamorous, but a good spot to rub offering the chance to see the inland of the
Supa Bake (Williams Rd; pastries 60t-K2.50; h6am- chicken fillet burger while gazing at the seduc- shoulders (and everything else) with locals. Gazelle Peninsula and perhaps a glimpse
3.30pm Mon-Sat, to 9am Sun) Be sure to swing by this tive coastal views from the breezy, thatched If all you need is a cold beer and a of the Baining mountains. PMV 5 goes to
busy pastry shop, even if it’s just to gawk at terrace. Big appetite? Hearty meat dishes are chilled-out vibe, the bars at Queen Emma Keravat (K4) and Kabaira Bay (K5). PMV
the display cabinet full of scones, cookies and also available. On Friday, the lunch buffet Lodge, Rapopo Plantation Resort, Kokopo 8 goes to Vunapope and Takubar (60t). For
buns. Let us know what the vividly-coloured (K30) is a steal. Put some wobble in your step Village Resort and Kokopo Beach Resort are Bita Paka War Cemetery, take PMV 9 and
‘rainbow cakes’ taste like. with a chilled SP brew (K5). worth investigating. ask the driver to drop you there (K1.50) The
218 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 219
return trip is a bit more tricky; you’ll have to enjoy wonderful views of Blanche Bay with kastom (custom) price. You’ll also find a mains were beatified by John Paul II in 1995.
wait for the bus, or walk to the main coastal Tavurvur volcano as a fantastic backdrop. Get small Chinese cemetery beside the Karavia It’s moving to see a multitude of families in
road. Start early. your camera ready! About 500m to the west, Bay Tunnels. pressed shirts, print dresses and bare feet
you’ll come across a rusty Japanese Floating The huge form of Vulcan rises from the walk many miles to Sunday church.
From Kokopo to Rabaul Crane, which was bombed by the Allies. roadside. The last eruption occurred in 1994.
A poignant site, Bita Paka War Cemetery (hdawn- Along this stretch of road are count- It is possible to climb up it (ask at Rabaul Rabaul
dusk) contains the graves of over 1000 Allied war less Japanese tunnels, including Karavia Bay Hotel p221 for a guide). Be prepared to fall on your knees in awe: al-
dead, many of them Indian slaves. The gar- Tunnels, which were used as a hospital, and The Burma (Vuruga) Rd leaves the most the entire old town of Rabaul is buried
dens are lovely. It’s 8km off the main airport nearby Japanese Barge Tunnels (signposted KokopoRabaul Rd and climbs to Malmaluan in deep, black volcanic ash and looks like a
road; the turn-off (signposted) is about 2km ‘Japanese Tunnels, Chinese Cemetery’). Lookout (at the Telikom tower). The views movie set for an apocalyptic film or a Papuan
east of Rapopo Plantation Resort (p216). These tunnels were built to hold the are OK, and there’s an anti-aircraft gun and version of Pompeii. Who’s the bad boy re-
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
The coast road goes past Raluana Point, barges out of sight from the Allies. They howitzer. sponsible for this soul-stirring moonscape?
around Karavia Bay before squeezing be- were hauled to the water along rails by As the Burma Rd begins to dip towards Mt Tavurvur, which looms ominously to the
tween Vulcan and the hills, and then around Indian slaves (now buried at Bika Paka the coast, it passes through the Rakunai site east. On 19 September 1994 it erupted, spew-
Simpson Harbour to Rabaul. cemetery) in order to load shipping cargo. of Peter ToRot’s cemetery and memorial church. ing huge amounts of ash over Rabaul, and the
Starting from Kokopo, you’ll first drive The main tunnel contains five rusty barges, Peter ToRot was a village priest who was Simpson Harbour and Karavia Bay area. It
past Blue Lagoon Lookout, from where you can lined up nose to tail; bring a torch and K5 killed by the Japanese in July 1945. His re- reduced the landscape to an alien prehistoric
desert. It’s still active; you can see it belch huge
0 8 km plumes of smoke into the sky.
GAZELLE PENINSULA 0 4 miles Rabaul is not completely dead, though.
There’s now a bit of life that’s evident a block
Watom I
or so inland along the whole road. East of
Tavui
Makada I here, Rabaul is still mostly abandoned, bar a
Point
Submarine Base; few hotels that survived the Tavurvur erup-
Guns & Relics Makada Harbour
BISMARCK SEA tion in 1994. Thanks to the deep water (and
Rd
t
Bay Talili Bay
Ratung
Nodup
dramatic events that occurred here.
(404m) North Coast RABAUL
Rd
Rabaul Bai
Re mb Malaguna Nakaia Ulu I
ar Kombiu
INFORMATION
G
Ra Simpson (Mt Mother; 688m)
ng See Rabaul Harbour
e
Shipwreck
To Ura I e Map (p216)
Hot Springs
o
Kabakon I The Bank South Pacific (%982 1744; h8.45am-3pm
r
Shipwreck The
Turangunan
Tavurvur (South Daughter; 475m) g Kerawara I
Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) changes cash and travellers
Beehives e cheques and can do cash advances on your
Kokop
(last erupted
Rakunai
1994) Bay Big Pigeon
I
a
n n
net, ask at your hotel.
t Karavia Bay Tunnels;
Coas Shipwreck Raluana CREDNER IS
e l
Japanese Barge Tunnels;
Chinese Cemetery Point
Karavia Bay
SIGHTS
North
Malmaluan Floating Ko
Lookout Crane ko
po Seaview
First things first: Simpson Harbour – once
Blue Lagoon
Bu
Lookout –
Ra Beach crusted with pumice – is still magnificent,
rm
ba Resort Cape
a
in WWII and rebuilt in the 1950s to its former the forgiveness of the local people. There’s a did reefs. The main drawback is the location; if oRabaul Hotel (%982 1999; www.rabaul
glory only to be destroyed again by fire in smashing view from here. you’re based in Rabaul, you’ll have to fork out hotel.com.pg; Mango Ave; d K72-308; ais) Hands-
1994. It has been partly restored and is now A$40 for transfers, or take a PMV (40 min- down, this is the best-value option on the
home to a small museum. Ask at the Rabaul ACTIVITIES utes). If you’re a keen diver, it’s best to base Gazelle Peninsula. It’s run by Australians
Hotel (opposite) for the key. It’s almost too good to be true: Simpson yourself at the Kabaira Beach Hideaway. Bruce and Susie, who have an eye on every-
Another worthwhile site is the Vulcanology Harbour offers several first-class wreck dives, There’s another professional dive centre, thing and ensure the place is kept shipshape.
Observatory, about 900m off Tunnel Hill Rd, while the reefs off the western tip of Gazelle Rapopo Dive (see p215), in Kokopo. For starters, it has a wide array of prices, from
from where you can enjoy million-dollar Peninsula are totally unspoiled and positively Good snorkelling areas include Submarine very simple, boxy yet economical rooms to
views over the bay and the volcanoes. festooned with healthy, hard and soft corals, Base, the Pigeons, the Beehives and Duke of very comfy, large units with all the mod
Namanula Road was the road that directly sponges, gorgonians and a dizzying array of York Islands. Taklam Lodge (p215) and Rabaul cons – take your pick. Other strong points
connected the northern coast to Rabaul, rising tropical fish: a perfect combination. See p58 Hotel (right) can arrange snorkelling trips. include the wide array of tours on offer, qual-
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
over the great caldera’s rim. It runs east out for more information on diving. For land lubbers, there are various hiking ity meals at the onsite restaurant, a convivial
of Rabaul off Mango Ave and used to meet Run by the capable Stephen Woolcott, options around Rabaul (p223). bar and a buzzing disco. One minus: the pool,
the north coast road near Matalau. It’s some- Kabaira Dive Rabaul (%983 9266; www.kabairadive covered with ash, is a sad joke. A winner, and
times impassable now further up. The Japanese
ὈὈὄὄὄ
.com.pg; 1/2 dives with tanks & weights A$75/120, with full TOURS it accepts credit cards.
Peace Memorial, the main Japanese memorial equipment A$120/165) is based at Kabaira Beach Rabaul Hotel (right) offers great and afford- Travelodge (% 982 1002; [email protected]
in the Pacific, is dignified and testament to Hideaway (p224), a few finstrokes from splen- able possibilities including local WWII .pg; Namanuh Rd; r K85-121; a) This motel-like
heritage trips, hot-spring dips, village stays, venture has as much character as a newly
0 600 m
river-rafting trips, canoe/walking trips to see paved footpath. The furnishings are some-
RABAUL 0 0.4 miles the megapode colonies on Matupit Island what dated and the rooms are plain but
(K20) and Indiana Jonesstyle multiday roomy (request a ‘presidential’). Some have
ὄὄὄ
A B C D
To Vulcanology Observatory (1.5km);
Kabaira Dive Rabaul (30km) Vesters St
jungle treks across the Baining Mountains, a mildewy smell; if you have a sharp nose,
Catholic through one of the most biodiverse forests sniff out a few before deciding. Never mind,
Rd
Tu l Rd
16 Church
Bates
Hil
Second 22nd St
on earth. The route follows the retreat of the
nn
15
St
Rd oko
St
Ge
e
Blanch Clelan 8 Apex Lookout
Other reputable outfits:
K
d D
ve
es
17 Wreck Av Kamarere St
See Enlargement Customs e Kabaira Beach Hideway (%983 9266; www.kabaira global.net.pg; Mango Ave; r K110-310; ai) A good
Casuarina Ave
Wharf
Ὀὄὄὄ
Wharf Queen To Matalau
To
Main Elizabeth .com; Kabaira Bay) Offers fishing trips, bushwalking in second fiddle to the Rabaul Hotel (above), this
Wharf Park Rd
ula
Park St
Kokopo the Baining Mountains, village visits and ‘survival-type’ squarish building is nothing flash, but it’s calm,
Kombiu Ave
2
an
3
Mango Ave
(30km) Clarke St
m
camping trips on offshore islands. tidy and well managed. Rooms are ordinary but
Na
Court St
Bates St
Namanula Rd
Paivu Tours (%982 1059; [email protected];
Tu
13
ll
(500m)
Namanula Rd Rabaul Adventure & Historical Tours (%982 2206; 17, 18, 20, 21 and 22 have the best views. The
Rd
2 Malaguna Rd 5
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
ὄ
To 11 14 1 10 [email protected]) Based at Travelodge (right). pièce de résistance, though, is the well-tended
Rd
Kokopo 9 Tavur St
swimming pool – the perfect salve after a long
po
Wha
Sulphur Creek Rd
ko
Ko
Shipwreck FESTIVALS & EVENTS day sightseeing or walking. Other perks include
rf R
St
12 Vulcan
For details on the Warwagira Festival, see a restaurant and a bar. Accepts credit cards.
e
d
ch
St
Do
an
0 200 m
w
p215. Its location alternates between Kokopo
Bl
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
INFORMATION
Bank of South Pacific....................1 B2 Simpson
SLEEPING rassment of riches when it comes to dining
Volcanic Ash
3
Post Office...............................(see 10) Harbour This is ground zero; staying here rather than options, which are pretty much confined to
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Deep
Volcanic Ash
Kokopo gives you that ‘I was there’ feeling. hotel restaurants and a few kai bars. There
Admiral Yamamoto's Bunker........2 C2 Sulphur Barike Lodge (%982 1034; Malaguna Rd; s without
Japanese Peace Memorial............ 3 D2 Queen Emma Restaurant...........(see 7) Creek Unexcavated
are also several well-stocked supermarkets,
New Guinea Club & Rabaul Rabaul Bakery............................10 B2 Roads bathroom K60-80, d without bathroom K80-100; a) Head open Monday to Saturday and some on
Museum................................(see 2) The Phoenix Room....................(see 6)
here if you’re seriously strapped for cash and Sunday morning. They include Tropicana
ὄὄὄ
Paivu Tours................................(see 8) Tropical Lunch Haus...................11 B2
Rabaul Adventure & Historical Tropicana Supermarket.............. 12 A2 want to be right in the thick of things – it’s Supermarket and Zero Supamarket.
Tours.....................................(see 7) Yacht Club................................. 13 C2
a betel nut’s throw from the market. Rooms Yacht Club (Mango Ave; mains K10-20; hlunch
Sulph
Zero Supamarket........................14 B2
SLEEPING are cramped, bedding is rudimentary and & dinner Fri, lunch Sat & Sun) Has burgers, pork
ur
by Paul Schwartz, who also works as a ‘diabetes semi-buried in earth, including a Japanese
DEAD TOWN counciller’, policeman and, should you need Betty Bomber (Map p220) and a helicopter.
Pre-1990s, Rabaul had a hustle and bustle, but it was a laid-back kind of place that was very to boost your morale, a psychotherapist. They are close to the Old Rakunai Airport (Map
friendly. It had the biggest market in the South Pacific, an orchid park, playgrounds and swim- p220) . The airport was completely destroyed
ming pools. GETTING THERE & AWAY during the 1994 eruption. Kastom fee is K5.
There was a great music scene in Rabaul and PNG’s thriving local music industry originated Rabaul is serviced by Tokua airport (p217). From there, you can easily reach the hot springs
there. Rabaul’s Pacific Gold Studios was the South Pacific’s first recording studio. Now Rabaul is For information about banana-boat travel (Map pp218–19) – an impressive sight amid
flattened – in 1994 it collapsed under the weight of 1m to 2m of Tavurvur’s volcanic load. around New Britain and through the nearby an eerie landscape that’s reminiscent of the
For several days after the eruption, there were severe earthquakes as Tavurvur and Vulcan islands, see p217. film Mad Max.
went at it, and Rabaul was evacuated. The dead of night would be broken by the sound of a Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; Kokopo %982 9480, Rabaul Can you see the two rocky pinnacles rising
building groaning as it eventually succumbed to the weight of ash on its roof. 982 1070/9480; h8am-5pm Mon-Sat) has passenger from the centre of Simpson Harbour? They
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
However, the Rabaul Hotel is standing proof that most of the town could have been saved. boats sailing from Rabaul to Lae (K220 to K300, are called the Beehives (Map pp218–19M032), or
Over several days, the staff made a joint effort to clear the flat roof of the piling ash. Rabaul two weekly) via Kimbe (K110 to K200). It sails Dawapia Rocks, and are said to be the hard
was never swamped by lava, only by slowly piling ash that weighed as much as concrete. Rabaul to Buka (K130 to K250) on Wednesday and core of the original old volcano. You can visit
might have been dusted off without being very damaged with a round-the-clock shovelling effort Kavieng (K100 to K180) on Tuesday. It also them by boat and there is some good div-
and a bit of protection from the hundreds of looters who paraded around with new clothes and has infrequent services to Pomio in Jacquinot ing and swimming. When Captain Blanche
stereos immediately after the blast. Bay. In Kokopo, the office is next door to Zoma first visited Rabaul in 1882 these islands were
Look a few degrees higher and you can see the rim of the old caldera with its five volcanoes, Medical Clinic (p213). much larger; the bigger one had a village of
one still occasionally smoking, and remember where you are. Beneath the earth, under your 200 people. Taklam Lodge (p215) and Rabaul
feet, is the old town. GETTING AROUND Hotel (p221) can organise harbour cruises
Tokua airport is about 40km from the town. that take in the Beehives.
PMVs run out to Tokua and the better ho- For a picnic spot, nothing can beat the
(think bare, peeling walls and neon lighting) Rabaul Bakery (Malaguna Rd; h6am-6pm Mon-Sat) tels and guesthouses can provide transfers Submarine Base (Mapp218-19; admission K15) at Tavui
and the Chinese specialities are just average, The place to head to in case of hypoglycaemia, although you for K30. Point. The Japanese used to provision subma-
judging by the braised chicken. But it’s the have to get your timing right (early morning) to find pastries. There aren’t many PMVs on Sunday. PMV rines here during the war. There are tunnel
only independent restaurant in town. Tropical Lunch Haus (Malaguna Rd; mains K3-7; 1 goes from Rabaul to Kokopo (K2.50) and and rail track remnants below and guns and
Phoenix Room (%982 1999; Rabaul Hotel, Mango hlunch Mon-Sat) Another busy kai bar. back. PMV 6 goes to the vulcanology observa- relics (Map pp218–19M036) in the hills above, but
Ave; mains K20-50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) When tory (inform the driver), submarine base and it was a ‘base’ in so far as the Japanese pulled
it comes to Asian cooking, chef Solis knows DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT Nonga Hospital. PMV 5 goes to Rakunai their submarines up to the vertical wall and
his stuff. Chinese specialities are served The bar at Rabaul Hotel (p221) is the most (Peter ToRot’s memorial church) and PMV then surfaced allowing soldiers to walk off over
with absolute proficiency – the fluffiest foo popular watering hole in town. A mixed crowd 4 goes to Malmaluan Lookout. the reef. This site also makes for a wonder-
yongs (omelette) in PNG, guaranteed! The of locals, sailors, businesspeople, tourists and ful snorkelling spot; the coral bed is flat and
sweet-and-sour pork is another hot favourite. expats gather in this convivial rumpus room of Around Rabaul almost horizontal until it drops down a 75m
Western dishes, such as pork chops or beef a bar to play pool, or just lubricate their gullet The easiest way to visit the sights around vertical reef wall. As you swim over this drop,
stroganoff, also feature on the menu. There with a beer. On weekends Rabaul Hotel’s aptly Rabaul if you’re pressed for time is to take your heart races and it feels like you’re leaping
is a good choice of vegetarian options too; named Dark Room is packed to the rafters a day tour. Your hotel can arrange a vehicle off a skyscraper. Bring your snorkelling gear!
rare in PNG. If the service is longish, you can with revellers who tear it up on the dance floor and a guide. To get there, catch PMV 6 from the central
always gaze at some risqué oriental paintings (K15). Also worth investigating is the Yacht Club PMV stop opposite Rabaul’s new market on
on the walls or at the huge tambu (sacred) (h11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat). The Jag SIGHTS Malaguna Rd.
wheel hanging from the ceilings. The Joker on Friday evening is very popular The September 1994 eruptions should have Between Rabaul and the Duke of York
Queen Emma Restaurant (%982 1002; Travelodge, and can be fun – be generous if you hit the destroyed little Matupit Island (Map pp21819M03) Group are the two Pigeons (Map pp21819M037) or
Namanuh Rd; mains K25-29; hlunch & dinner) Don’t jackpot! And if you don’t want to miss a game but the prevailing winds brought Tavurvur’s Credner islands. Small Pigeon is uninhabited.
let the swinging ’70s frilly curtains and neon of your favourite Rugby League team, this is the load over Rabaul and left this Island almost Either Island would make a pleasant excursion
lighting bring you down. This good honest place to go. During the week it’s usually pretty unscathed thanks, villagers say, to the local for a picnic or snorkel.
restaurant serves good honest meals. If you tame. You can also slake your thirst at the bars dukduks. The thousand-strong village com-
need to assuage carnivorous cravings, try the at Travelodge and Kaivuna Resort Hotel. munity still chooses to reside right under- ACTIVITIES
well-presented and tasty black pepper steak. neath the belching monster. You can hire a For the energetic, hiking up the volcanoes can
Kaivuna Resort Hotel restaurant (%982 1860; SHOPPING canoeist to get you around to see Tavurvur’s be fun and thrilling (though we don’t recom-
Mango Ave; mains K32-45; hlunch & dinner) This serves The reception areas of the hotels and guest- southern slopes (which have giant lava flows) mend climbing the smouldering Tavurvur as
up unambitious but tasty dishes. Chicken, fish houses sometimes sell bilums (string bags) from the water. It’s like a peek at a newborn it might blow up on you); they’re all tracked,
and pork are just some of the menu items. and small carvings. planet. The megapode-egg hunters are here, but there’s often a good chance of getting
Other options: Laugh all your want, but PNG Diabetic Centre burrowing almost 2m into the black sand to lost – your best bet is to take a guide from
Ling’s Freezer (Kokopo Rd; mains K3-7; hlunch (%982 1026; h8am-6pm) is a treasure trove for retrieve the eggs. In the same area, there’s Rabaul Hotel (from K20). If you want a recom-
Mon-Sat) This kai bar was recommended to us by locals artefact-hunters, with masks, necklaces, shells, quite a smattering of Japanese aircraft wreck- mendation, go for the 688m Kombiu (Mt Mother;
in the know. carvings and other souvenirs aplenty. It’s run age scattered among the palm trees and now Map p220). You’ll be up and down in 2½ hours
224 N E W B R I TA I N • • E a s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N E W B R I TA I N • • W e s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e 225
if you’re reasonably fit. The views from the anyway – there’s excellent swimming and must either spend a lot of money flying to tiny
top are truly heart-stopping. Don’t forget your snorkelling on the house reef and fantas-
DUKE OF YORK GROUP airstrips or catch banana boats and trade boats
0 4 km
camera. Another must-do is the Rabaul Nakaia, tic diving a 10-minute boat ride from the 0 2 miles
along the coast and stay in villages.
Mait Unanga I
which features the shortest climb (about 30 guesthouse. Three stand-alone bungalows Palipal Mait Iri I From Port Moresby, Air Niugini (%983
Port Hunter
minutes from the base of the volcano); beware were in the process of being built at the Makada I Urakuk
Piuka
5287) flies to and from Hoskins (K518, once
once you’ve reached the narrow rim of the time of writing. Food is fresh and tasty. Watering Pt
Makada
daily) and Kokopo (K330). There are also two
caldera – it’s easy to feel dizzy and lose your There’s an onsite dive centre (p220), and a Harbour Urakukur
Kabilomu
weekly flights to Kavieng (K373) and three to
balance. The slopes of Vulcan (Map pp21819M0167) host of activities can be arranged, including Watara Pt Lae (K436).
are a bit trickier; they are scored with deep Robinson Crusoestyle picnics on nearby Kakukur Duke of York I Waira Pt Airlink used to fly to Rabaul and Lae, but
cracks from mud-ash drying and contracting, islands. Payment is by cash only. It’s about Kabakabiui
Watara the airline was not operating at the time of
which can be 4m to 5m deep. They can be hard 40 minutes from Rabaul on PMV 5. Nabual Berard Pt
writing. Check it out while you’re there –
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
Foul
to spot now they’re vegetated. Bay another airline might have re-opened these
There are excellent walking routes around Jacquinot Bay Ruruan routes.
I
Rabaul, and you can spend hours just walking This ruggedly beautiful, little-developed re- Mangrove Creek
around the town overawed by its complete gion on the south coast of New Britain is the Ulu I Kabiatarai Boat
annihilation. place to go if you want to lose yourself in vir- Mioko
Harbour Mualim I
Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %983 5365) sails to
You can hike down to Matupit Island tually unexplored terrain. There are enormous Kabakon
Kerawara Utuan
Mioko Lae (K120 to K200, overnight, daily) and
I
(p223) and back (although someone will caves and underwater lakes that are just crying Harbour I
Palpal
Mioko I Rabaul (K110 to K200, twice weekly). Book
probably offer you a lift) and the views from out to be discovered. Should you manage to Kerawara I at the wharf.
the vulcanology observatory (Map pp21819M0168) get to this remote area, you can park your
also make it a rewarding walk. grungy backpack at Pisiua Guesthouse (%982 GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING AROUND
If you’re fit you can climb Namanula Rd 9279 in Rabaul; Manginum; s incl 3 meals K35) or at Koki If you’re lucky, you’ll share the fare with locals, There are a few 4WD logging roads (in the dry
to meet the north coast road near Matalau. Women’s Guesthouse (%981 9366 in Rabaul; Palmalmal; but otherwise, a (very splashy) 50-minute trip season) leading towards the rugged and vir-
From here you can head north along the coast s incl 3 meals K100). to the Duke of York Islands from Rabaul costs tually unexplored mountains of the interior.
road, which rises over a pass and meets the You can get there by flying to Pomio from K30, and the two-hour trip to the west coast of Public transport is limited to PMVs between
NongaSubmarine Base Rd. PMV 6 runs Hoskins (K330, 30 minutes). Rabaul Shipping New Ireland costs K50. Only go on a calm day; Hoskins and Kimbe (K7, 40 minutes).
regularly to Nonga hospital and sometimes (Star Ships; p223) may have services from there have been deaths in these waters when
beyond. Or you could walk the whole loop Hoskins to Pomio. high seas have rolled banana boats. Hoskins
over Tunnel Hill Rd and take in the vulcan- Organised tours are the easiest and most The picturesquely located ‘major’ airport of
ology observatory along the way. This would Duke of York Group convenient way of exploring the archipelago WNB is 40km east of Kimbe. There are a
take about a day. This is the tambu (forbidden or sacred) cock- and, if you happen upon a nice group, make number of forested volcanoes surrounding
Rabaul Hotel (p221) offers white-water pit between New Ireland and the Gazelle for a wonderful day. Check with Taklam town, including the active Mt Pago. Located
rafting trips on the scenic Warangoi River Peninsula Tolais, a place of secret men’s busi- Lodge (p215). a short distance inland, at Koimumu, there’s
amid spectacular jungle scenery – you’ll feel ness, dukduks and tumbuans. an active geyser field.
teletransported to the Amazon. No need to These islands are beautiful and accessible, WEST NEW BRITAIN PROVINCE
be sporty – you’ll paddle at approximately but they are little developed. There are no If you read this section, there’s a great chance Kimbe
5km/h on an inflatable, a canoe, a tyre tube vehicles on any of the islands except Duke that you’re a diver heading to Kimbe Bay. Kimbe is the provincial headquarters and
or man-made bamboo rafts, and there are of York Island. Mioko Island is the best one Kimbe Bay has become a byword for un- a major centre for palm-oil production.
no graded rapids. A full-day trip will set you to visit, with a smattering of sights, includ- derwater action, with an amazing array of Although it has a seafront, it’s a fairly unas-
back K200. ing good beaches, two open-pit caves on the marine life and sensational reefs brushing suming town with no real interest for travel-
Island’s eastern flank and a coastwatcher’s the surface. However, there is life above lers. But there’s Kimbe Bay. Ah, Kimbe Bay.
SLEEPING & EATING lookout cut into the clifftop nearby on the the water as well, with some spectacular With its unique seamounts capped with coral
Kabaira Beach Hideaway (Map pp218-19; %983 9266; easternmost point. volcanoes brooding in the background towers reaching the surface, it has earned its
www.kabairadive.com.pg; Kabaira Bay; s with 3 meals A$90; For many years during the war, hundreds and a handful of WWII relics. WNB has celebrity status among divers and snorkellers
i) Entering the property, you feel you’ve of people hid in these caves to avoid being the country’s greatest proliferation of around the world.
stumbled onto the set of Little House on the press-ganged by the Japanese. Nearby, a tiny volcanoes – five active and 16 dormant – The marine biodiversity is stunning, with
Prairie. Run by an Australian man, Stephen, tunnel runs between the two cliff faces of the and you can literally smell the sulphur in the more than 350 types of hard coral and 860
this quaint resort radiates a ramshackle air, Island’s eastern tip. You can crawl between air. It’s also PNG’s highest timber and palm- species of fish vying for your attention.
and combines friendly informality and a (it’s rough going) for two views of the open oil exporter with consequent tension between Drift along the reefs and enjoy the ultimate
splendid setting. The accommodation is on sea and sky, and the cruel cliff below you. If the province’s villagers and settlers. underwater drama.
the beachfront in a simple, five-room house. you want to snorkel, try the southern coast,
The plain, shoebox-sized rooms could do but it’s only good in calm conditions. GETTING THERE & AWAY INFORMATION
with a little freshening up and the lack of There is a rudimentary homestay on Air The Bank South Pacific and Westpac banks
private facilities might not be to everyone’s Mioko and a guesthouse on Ulu. Bring along Hoskins airport is well serviced by the first- are one block south (inland) of Kmart su-
taste, but you probably won’t be inside much some food. and second-level airlines, but beyond here you permarket. Both are equipped with ATMs
226 N E W B R I TA I N • • W e s t N e w B r i t a i n P r o v i n c e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y 227
(Visa and MasterCard). East of here is the gifts cards, placemats and other gifts that
post office and daily market. feature tribal portraits, market scenes and
Walindi Plantation Resort (%983 5441; www
.walindi.com; s/d US$140/214, s/d bungalow incl 3 meals NEW IRELAND PROVINCE
underwater compositions. US$225/330; i) This well-established resort
SLEEPING & EATING run by Max and Cecilie Benjamin is highly Forget the 21st century in New Ireland. It
If you intend to do a lot of diving, it makes more Talasea, Kimbe Bay & the Willaumez recommended for divers because of its full- really isn’t important whether your friends
sense to base yourself at Walindi Plantation Peninsula service onsite dive centre and great location, believe that you re-enacted your Swiss Family
Resort (opposite) or Queen’s Head (right). As public transport is virtually non-existent, and its easy access to famous dive sites in Robinson fantasies on a remote island, dis-
But if you have to be in Kimbe itself… your best bet to visit Talasea and the Willaumez Kimbe Bay. Things are very tasteful here, but cussed the fine art of carving with a master
Liamo Reef Resort (%983 4366; liamoresort@global Peninsula is to arrange a tour through the almost unbelievably casual as well, reflected carver, acquainted yourself with the intriguing
.net.pg; s K165-400, d K300-400; ai) Situated on the Walindi Plantation Resort (opposite). in the individual, beautifully attired, tradi- traditions of Malagan, stayed in a traditional
beach at the eastern end of town, this is a good Talasea is an active volcanic region set in tional-style bungalows hidden among the guesthouse amid a landscape that belongs
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
deal if you’re after some cosseting in a serene a dramatic landscape. Lake Dakataua, at the junglelike foliage. There are also four cheaper, to the dinosaur age, and witnessed a shark-
environment. Liamo offers a range of accom- tip, was formed in a colossal eruption in 1884. more utilitarian rooms in a separate building. calling ceremony. It’s just important that you
modation from functional, spick-and-span It’s definitely worth seeing two WWII plane The service is of high standard and the food savour the uplifting experiences.
rooms in a concrete building to larger stand- wrecks that lie partially disintegrated in the is copious, varied and excellent. The beach Few other places in PNG can boast such
alone bungalows. The most appealing feature jungle near Talasea. There’s a Mitchell B-25 is only so-so, but there’s an alluring pool. an interesting and accessible pick ’n’ mix of
is probably the verdant setting; the owner is Bomber and a Lockheed Vega Ventura – an Evening entertainment is low-key, consist- nature, culture and landscapes. Sure, New
a keen gardener, and it shows. Pity about the impressive sight. ing mainly of a few beers at the delightful Ireland doesn’t offer the thrill of puffing vol-
aviary, though – release those captive eagles! If you need to relax, it’s well worth dipping poolside bar, and an early night in prepara- canoes (in this respect, New Britain steals the
The beach is only average, but there’s good your toes in the Garu Hot River. Waters are com- tion for the next day’s diving activity. Bird show), but it boasts broad white-sand beaches
swimming. The restaurant (mains K20 to K45, fortably warm and there’s a mini-waterfall. watchers and honeymooners will also feel and rivers of clear water tumbling down
open breakfast, lunch and dinner) has gar- Outdoorsy types might consider trekking up welcome here. Various tours in the area can from the thickly forested central Schleinitz
nered high praise for its Chinese specialities. the active Mt Garbuna. The area also offers be arranged. Range and a clutch of secluded islands off
Vehicle hire can be organised and credit cards excellent bird-watching possibilities. the ‘mainland’.
are accepted. Liamo also has a fishing lodge Everything you need to know about Kimbe Around West New Britain Province For fans of traditional cultures, New
in far-off Baia (opposite). Bay’s marine environment and coral reef A terra incognita for travellers, the south- Ireland is an unmissable destination. In
Kimbe Bay Hotel (%983 5001; www.kimbebayhotel habitats should become clear at the Mahonia western part of the Island is hard to reach. the rugged south is the spiritual home of
.com; r K195-240; ai) Kimbe’s most comfort- Na Dari Conservation Centre (%983 4241; Kimbe At the time of research, there was no regular Tumbuan culture. The north is home to
able, central hotel is really nothing amazing, Bay; www.mahonia.org; admission free; h 9am-5pm public transport available beyond Hoskins. Malagan, while Kabai culture dominates in
but it’s fine for a snooze before an early boat. Mon-Sat), next door to the Walindi Plantation Airlink used to service Kandrian but had the central areas.
It’s just opposite the container terminal, so Resort. This marine research centre is open gone bust at the time of writing. Another And there’s the wonderfully down-to-
forgo dreamy views. Rooms are commodious, to the public. airline might have stepped in by the time earth, unfussy atmosphere. New Ireland is
well appointed and come equipped with satel- Apart from the superb natural surround- you read this – check it out while in PNG. far less developed than New Britain. Once you
lite TV but score zero on our charm metre. ings and rare birds, the main attraction here Also check with Rabaul Shipping (Star cross St Georges Channel, which separates
Surprise: the restaurant (mains K16 to K30; is the unsurpassable diving in Kimbe Bay. Ships; p223). the islands, you’ll notice the laid-back vibe,
open breakfast, lunch and dinner) serves up You might see anything from a tiny glass Mt Langila, on Cape Gloucester at the the more sedate pace of life and a greater em-
good Indian dishes (the owner is of Indian shrimp, to a pod of killer whales. The Walindi southwestern end of the Island, is still ac- phasis on the old ways. Outside Kavieng and
descent). Credit cards are accepted. Airport Plantation Resort has a very professional dive tive and hiccups and rumbles every few Namatanai, the only towns of consequence,
transfers are K35 (one-way). centre (%983 5441; www.walindi.com). Expect to pay months. there are coastal communities on each side of
San Remo Club (%983 4600; mains K10-20; hlunch US$70 for a single dive, US$130 for two dives Sportfishing enthusiasts should make a the Island but no real settlements bigger than
Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat) We love this place – it feels and US$170 for three dives. See p59 for more beeline for Baia Sportfishing Lodge (%983 a trade store or two.
so anachronistic. It’s the most ‘happening’ information on diving. 5567; www.baiafishingpng.com; 6-night package per The good thing is that you can mix slow-
spot in town, not far from Liam Reef Resort. person from A$3542), a reputable, high-standard paced sun-and-sand holidays with action-
Chat with old expats who are almost a fix- SLEEPING & EATING fishing lodge in remote Baia that attracts packed experiences. For outdoorsy types,
ture here, catch the breeze from the terrace, Queen’s Head (% 983 4566; s incl breakfast K70) Ernest Hemingway fans. It’s run by Liamo the pursuit of choice is scuba diving, on an
sip a cold beer while gazing on smouldering Is this the most bizarre lodging option in Reef Resort (opposite) in Kimbe. The equal footing with surfing. Kayaking, sport
Mt Garbuna in the distance, or enjoy a well- PNG? Peter Prior is British, and it shows. His numerous river systems are home to the in- fishing, snorkelling and even cycling (yes!)
prepared chicken schnitzel. mock-Tudor tavern ought to be in an English famous black bass and spot tail bass, and the are available.
village, but has been enchanted onto a jungle- neighbouring coral reefs are a playpen for reef
SHOPPING encroached beach. It’s simple but clean, has and pelagic species, including tuna, wahoo, History
It’s worth stopping at Le Riche Colours (%983 four rooms and a share kitchen, and…horse giant trevally, marlin and sailfish among the The remains of rock shelters found near
4990, 983 4136; www.picturetrail.com/leriche; Kimbe) brasses. See it to believe it. It appeals to back- prime catches. There’s a minimum stay of four Namatanai suggest that New Ireland was in-
if you are after some original souvenirs. packers and divers on a budget. It’s 2km east nights. Prices include fishing gear, boat and habited 30,000 years ago. Missionaries began
Artist Nathalie Le Riche has very colour- of Walindi Plantation Resort. Call direct or guide, as well as transfers to Hoskins airport arriving in 1875 along with blackbirders who
ful hand-painted T-shirts, tribal stickers, contact Walindi Plantation Resort. (about 4½ hours by boat). forcibly removed many New Irelanders to
228 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 229
work on the plantations and cane fields of Geography & Climate Getting Around Has erratic opening hours. Can arrange bookings for village
Queensland (Australia) and Fiji. New Ireland is mountainous and rid- There are about six cross-Island routes, but stays by radio (or any other means).
A villainous crew, blackbirders often posed dled with huge, flooded caves. Midway most of them are in a very bad shape for Police (%984 2044, 984 2054)
as missionaries to coax men aboard, killing down the Island, the Lelet Plateau rises lack of proper maintenance. The most useful Post office (Coronation Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to
them offhand if they revolted. One slaver even to 1481m and further south, near Taron, ones for travellers are the Namatanai (east 11am Sat)
impersonated the bishop of Melanesia; the the Hans Meyer Range reaches 2399m. A coast) to Rasirik (for Uluputur) on the west Telikom (Coronation Rd; h8am-4.30pm Mon-Thu, to
real incumbent, believed to be an imposter, faultline provides passage for the Weitin coast, as well as the Fangalawa (east coast) 4pm Fri) Sells phonecards and mobile prepaid cards. Card-
was later killed in vengeance! Meanwhile, and Kamdaru rivers. to Lamusmus (west coast, for Tembin and operated phones outside (removed after hours).
the shortage of males devastated village life The area between Namatanai and Kavieng Kontu) leg. Visitors Information Centre (airport) A small counter
in places. receives about 3m of annual rainfall and has at the airport. Well-informed staff. It’s open to meet
Cannibalism and head-hunting were a dry season between May and November. KAVIENG arriving flights.
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
rife. Even a death from disease was often December to March is the cyclone season Being the capital of New Ireland, Kavieng is Westpac (%984 2030; Coronation Rd; h9am-3pm
attributed, from certain ‘signs’, as the fault and can bring high seas. the only town of any size in the province, but Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques,
of another tribe which might be mercilessly we’re hardly talking Shanghai – the tallest and can do cash advances on your credit card (MasterCard
attacked in revenge. In some communities, construction is the telecommunication tower, or Visa).
relatives smeared themselves with the blood Culture and the busiest shops operate very much on
of their deceased loved ones as part of the The people of New Ireland are Melanesian Melanesian time. If you proceed from Rabaul Sights
funeral rites. and speak 19 local languages. The north or Kokopo, you’ll find it remarkably low-key Pickings for sightseers are quite slim in
During the German reign, large copra plan- embodies the complex system of spiritual and quiet, with virtually no cars in the streets. Kavieng.
tations made New Ireland one of the most traditions of Malagan cultures. ‘Malangan’ The seaside ambience, with its fisheries and The golf course is a pleasant spot for a stroll,
profitable parts of the colony. The tyrannical also refers to the northern New Irelanders’ tranquil wharf, and the bustling market in the while the northern end of Nusa Pde provides
Baron Boluminski became district officer of carvings (see boxed text, below). shade of huge trees, create a dash of real life. the setting for a lovely waterfront walk; the
Kavieng in 1910 and built the highway that In the Island’s south are the Tumbuan Kavieng itself won’t fulfil all your fantasies huge fig trees almost meet overhead. If you
bears his name by forcing each village along traditions. The people from the south in- of a tropical paradise, but it’s optimally situ- keep heading north of the Malagan Beach
the coast to construct and maintain a section. vaded the Gazelle Peninsula and settled ated as a springboard to neighbouring islands, Resort, you will reach the intimate surrounds
He made villagers push his carriage over any the Duke of York Group several hundred including Nusa Lik Island and Lavongai (New of Patailu village.
deteriorated sections. years ago. Dukduks and tumbuans are Hanover), and for explorations of the mystify- The southern section of Nusa Parade con-
New Ireland fell to the Japanese in 1942 and common to all three cultures. Around ing east and west coasts. There’s good snorkel- tinues past the market and further along on the
Kavieng was developed into a major Japanese Namatanai and central New Ireland are ling and kayaking offshore and there’s plenty left are the provincial government buildings, built
military base. Most of the Australians in the Kabai traditions, which are not yet as of great diving in the area – not to mention on the site of Baron Boluminski’s residence.
Kavieng managed to escape, but some chose well understood. excellent surf-breaks that issue a siren’s call The closest thing Kavieng has to a regular
to stay behind as coastwatchers (spies). As in most PNG islands, traditional to surfers. ‘sight’ is the Bagail Cemetery, where Boluminski
The Allies made no attempt to retake New clan power is wielded by chiefs or big- was buried. The tough guy’s grave is right
Ireland but rather bombed it into oblivion. men (important men or leaders), but clan Orientation before you as you enter the cemetery.
The Japanese surrendered in Namatanai on rites and land claims are passed on in a The town is spread out. Coronation Rd con- Kavieng has a large and beautiful harbour.
19 September 1945. matrilineal system. nects the airport road (Stanfield St) and the You can go down to the waterfront and catch
Boluminski Hwy with the waterfront. Just a banana boat out to one of the many islands.
across from the beach are Nusa and Nusa New Sulaman makes for a good picnic and snor-
MALAGAN DEATH RITES Lik islands. kel. You can negotiate a ‘drop me off, pick me
For centuries, it has been kastom for the Malagan to carve wooden masks and sacred figures for up later’ trip. The cost is about K30 each way
their mortuary rites. There are a few dedicated regular carvers on Tabar Island and Libba village Information for the whole boat.
near Konos; otherwise, carvings are done only by secret men’s societies for mortuary ceremonies Kavieng is the only place on the Island where
or rites of passage in the villages. you can change money – stash cash if you plan Activities
Different clans have different funerary traditions, including interment, cremation and burial at to explore the east or west coasts. Good news for the skittish: Kavieng is rife
sea. The tatanu or tanuatu (soul) remains close to the body after death and it cannot go to the Bank South Pacific (%984 2066; Coronation Rd; with outdoor activities.
ancestors’ world until the mortuary rites are performed. The spirit of a dead person enters the h8.45am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8.45am-4pm Fri) Changes cash Calling all surfers! Kavieng has an up-
ancestors’ world through the places that masalais (spirits of the bush and water) inhabit. and travellers cheques, and offers Visa cash advances. and-coming surf scene (luckily it’s still a
Feasts are often performed for more than one person as they are terribly expensive. Those Bisi Electrical & Stationary (Lavogai St; per hr K30; fairly secret surfing Nirvana), with a good
deceased long ago can be included in the rite, which includes chanting, masked dancing, clouds h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat) Internet café. One range of reef-breaks, both lefts and rights, that
of lime and a huge feast. computer only; slow connections. are easily accessible. They vary in difficulty,
Masks may depict the totem animal of a specific tribe in stages of metamorphosis. Such was KPE Stationary (per hr K48; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, depending on the size and direction of the
the fearful power of the mask that, in the past, they were burned after the ceremony. Designs are to noon Sat) Internet café. One computer only; slow swell. From November to late April, swells of
strictly ‘patented’ according to clan rites, and a complex ritual payment must be made to pass a connections. up to 2.4m are not unheard of. What makes
design on to another carver. The problem is, there are simply not enough young apprentices. New Ireland Tourist Bureau (%984 2441; www surfing here so unique is the lack of crowds –
.newirelandtourism.org.pg; Tanga St; h7.45am-4pm) utter bliss if you come from, say, Bali. Even
230 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 231
0 400 m in action-packed passages and thriving sail to a week-long charter trip around
KAVIENG 0 0.2 miles
reefs. Lissenung Island Resort (%984 2526; www Lavongai archipelago.
To Patailu
A B C D .lissenung.com; 1 boat/2-tank dive A$55/100, equipment Other sporting opportunities include
Kulangi
Village
Frangipa
Thon
Tanga
g St
hire A$20; Lissenung Island) has a full-service dive canoeing and kayaking. You can hire a canoe
On
shop. Free pick-ups can be arranged from from Nusa Island Retreat (p232) and pad-
t Rd
y INFORMATION
Hw
ni St
St
Bol
um South Pacific........................1 B2
Bank
ins Kavieng. Dorian and Cara run Scuba Ventures dle around Nusa Lik Island. Tailored guided
ki
ki
Bisi Electrical
1 To Namatanai Hw & Stationary.............2 B2
s
Djaul
min
y
(263km) KPE Stationary.........................(see 18) (%984 1244; www.scubakavieng.com; Nusa Pde), an ex- kayaking trips in the Lavongai (New
Nu
Bolu
New Ireland Tourist Bureau..........3 B2
sa
St
cellent dive shop on the waterfront. A single Hanover) area are also available.
Pd
Post Office...................................4 B2
l St
Mongo
e
18 Telekom.......................................5 B2 boat dive will set you back A$65 (A$125 for For cycling trips, see p236.
Lemus
Westpac Bank..............................6 B2
Lavongai
St a two-tank dive). An open-water certifica-
2
tion costs A$660. For more information on Tours
St
20
17
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
23 24 Regent Garage
Mas
anet 19 22
Kavieng
diving, see p59. Nusa Island Retreat (p232) and Adventure
St St
Nuguria 3
Courthouse Airport Kavieng has terrific sportfishing. Now is in Paradise – Yacht Charters (see opposite)
n Rd
15 6 natio Sta
5
4 9 Coro nfie your chance to tackle marlin, tuna, trevally, have a variety of tours, including snorkel-
1 Sports ld
St
2 14
Field
jack and sailfish. Run by Peter McEwan, ling and surfing trips, and can arrange land
St St
War
Memorial 12 Mu ssau Tench Pelagic Pursuits (%984 2349; [email protected] tours. Imajica (www.theimajicaexperience.com) offers
Lihir 13 .pg; Coronation Rd), located inside the Zen 48 high standard, week-long cruises off New
Cou
t
Emir
au S store in Kavieng, offers charter fishing trips. Ireland aboard a splendid 25m schooner, as
St
Tabar
rt R
St To Airport; The best area extends off the northern tip well as surfaris and diving trips.
d
Anir
Tce
Visitor's Information
Centre of Lavongai (New Hanover). Price starts at
Golf Course K2500 per day for four anglers. Festivals & Events
21
Another good way to reach secluded, idyl- The week-long Malagan festival is usually held
Anir St lic spots off Kavieng is by sailing. Adventure
Tang
EATING
4 Kavieng Hotel..........................(see 14) What’s special about surfing in the Kavieng area? Our waves are not world-class by inter-
Malagan Beach Resort.............(see 15)
Catholic
Church 16 Market......................................(see 8)
national surfing standards, but we have what other countries, such as Indonesia or Fiji, don’t
International
Punter's Place.............................17 B2 have any more: uncrowded waves. It’s an absolute treat for surfers to ride an almost virgin wave,
Sot Kat.......................................18 B1
Wharf &
Customs
Paslogi Cre
s Tsang Sang Bakery.....................19 B2
without the pressure of other surf boats, and surfers can get this buzz here. We just want to
Lapangus Cre
Buildings s keep that. This is why we introduced a Surf Management Plan in 2004.
TRANSPORT
Wharf Rd Air Niugini..................................20 B2
11
Avis.........................................(see 15) What’s the principle of the Surf Management Plan? It’s a quota system. The maximum number
Banana Boats to Lavongai
(New Hangover).....................21 A3 of visiting surfers allowed to surf within the Kavieng Surf Management Area on any given day is
Banana Boats to Nusa Lik set at 20. Each individual surfer has to ensure that he or she is booked into the quota prior to
5 Island...................................(see 21)
Drimas (Car Rental)....................22 B2 arrival in New Ireland by contacting the Kavieng Surf Club or any surf operator. There’s a daily
Hertz........................................(see 15) fee of A$10. Thus we can guarantee uncrowded waves to visiting surfers. It’s very well received
7 Kavieng Hotel..........................(see 14)
PMV Stop...................................23 B2 by the surfing community.
To Fisheries Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships).......24 B2
Buildings (200m);
Hospital (600m)
What’s the impact on local communities? We have established excellent relations with all the
communities involved. Part of the fees paid by surfers go to traditional landowners, who own the
if it’s growing in popularity, the Kavieng Surf are surf specialists and can arrange surf pack- surfing-break areas. This ensures that there’s no local harassment. It’s vital that local people get a
Club ([email protected]) ensures that the ages) and the Kavieng Surf Club. Operated by cut of the pie and get a tangible benefit. We’re planning to extend the system to New Ireland’s
number of surfers is kept at a sustainable level a dynamic couple, Adventure in Paradise Yacht east coast and Lavongai (New Hanover), and we run an education program with villagers and
thanks to a surf quota system (see opposite). Charters (%984 1301; www.adventuresinparadise.com.pg; guesthouse owners who live near the surfing spots. It’s an integrated approach and a trade-off.
Among the most thrilling spots are Pikinini, Nusa Lik Island), next door to Nusa Island Retreat), By improving their standards, guesthouse owners will get more surfers, who in turn will be able
Karanas, Nago Island, Edmago Island, Long offers ‘surfaris’ in the area. to catch a glimpse of local life. For female surfers, this also means opportunities to interact with
Longs and Ral Island. For more information, No less impressive is diving, with a wide local women in the villages. It’s a win-win situation.
contact the guys at Nusa Island Retreat (they array of high-voltage sites. Expect drift dives
232 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • K a v i e n g 233
Sleeping of beach (nothing outstanding) overlooking Punter’s Palace (Lavongai St; mains K3-6; hlunch Drinking
IN KAVIENG Nusa Island as well as a nice little pool and Mon-Sat) A very friendly kai bar which is packed Kavieng’s nightlife is not exactly thrilling,
Peter ToRot Centre (%984 2684; Tabar Terrace; dm K20, a restaurant. with locals at lunchtime. Dig into budget sa- although there are a few options. Not to
d without bathroom K80) Though part of the church vouries such as stews, fried fish or chicken and worry, after a few SP beers, all of it will seem
compound, this rather depressing abode re- AROUND KAVIENG chips, and you’ll leave patting your tummy amazingly exciting.
sembling a warehouse is no epiphany for Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; www.nusaisland contently. The food is fresh and hygienically Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; Nusa Lik Island)
travellers. The long corridor of windowless retreat.com.pg; Nusa Lik Island; s A$110-140, d A$120-155, prepared. Copious pizzas are also available The bar here is a cool place. Sean, the ebullient
rooms will make you feel like an extra in a daily meals per person A$50) This tropical haven (K30) but you’ll have to order them a couple owner, prides himself on his very well-stocked
prison drama, and you’d have to be somewhat has a heavy focus on surfers (owner Sean of hours in advance. bar that has plenty of Australian tipples, spirits
masochistic to spend more than one night in is a dedicated surfer himself and a mine Sot Kat (mains K3-7; hlunch Mon-Sat) Another and about 30 devilish cocktails (K10 to K45).
the cell-like four-bed dorms. Try to nab one of information), but families, couples and buzzing kai bar that is off the radar for most Boost your libido with the ‘Orgasm’ mixture
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
of the four doubles, which are more attractive those who just want to flake out in a serene visitors but comes recommended by savvy lo- (we don’t guarantee the effects), while listen-
and get more natural light. setting are all welcome. It’s as relaxed as its cals. It’s a good-value stomach filler for those ing to mellow tunes. Free transfers from the
Kavieng Club (%984 2224; kaviengclub@global sand-floor bar-restaurant suggests, and has in need of some honestly prepared stews, and Malagan Beach Resort – just call ahead.
.net.pg; Coronation Rd; s K77-154, d K88-198; a) A re- lots of thoroughly unpretentious charm. Its fish and chips at puny prices. Good roast The bar at Kavieng Club (opposite is
liable budget stalwart, right in the centre. traditional-style beachfront bungalows, some chicken, too. a bit rowdy. The bars at Kavieng Hotel
The rooms, some fan-cooled, some with air- over water, are well maintained. There’s lots Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron (opposite) and Malagan Beach Resort
con, fit the bill, even if the plumbing in the of cheeky birds too. There’s a good restaur- .com.pg; Coronation Rd; mains K30-40; hbreakfast, lunch (opposite) are more sedate.
bathrooms leaves something to be desired. ant and the staff arranges a host of activities & dinner) This is a fixture among travellers,
Wood floors and an oddly mismatched colour including surfing (the core activity), kayak- well-heeled locals and expats and so it is a Shopping
scheme (bathrooms painted in blue, yellow- ing, cycling, snorkelling and diving. There good place to meet them. The dining area There are Malagan artefact collections at the
ish walls and apple green furniture) in some are surf-breaks close by. During the surfing is nothing glam but the eclectic menu, such Kavieng Hotel (opposite) and Malagan Beach
rooms add a touch of quirkiness. Room 1 season (November to April), there’s shared as burgers, steaks, omelettes, pork and lamb Resort (opposite). However, items are cheaper
is the best. There’s a bar and a garden area, accommodation (A$65 per person). It’s on chops, should please most palates. For a from the carver in Libba village (p236).
snooker tables and TV lounge area. Nusa Lik Island, just 200m across from the splurge, dive face first into its memorable
Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron international wharf. Transfers are easily Friday-night seafood buffet with crab, oys- Getting There & Away
.com.pg; Coronation Rd; s K90-365, d K105-400; a) This arranged to Kavieng. Recommended. ters, chicken, lobster, fish and vegetables AIR
longstanding favourite also has a split person- Lissenung Island Resort (%984 2526; www.lis (K55); you’ll walk out belly first. Words of If travelling to either Kokopo or Rabaul, Air
ality. The very mundane, fan-cooled budget senung.com; Lissenung Island; s with 3 meals A$120-160, wisdom: come at 6.30pm sharp. Niugini (%984 2135; Lavongai St; h8am-noon & 1-4pm
rooms could use some TLC and the shared d with 3 meals A$210-250) After the hardships Malagan Beach Resort (%984 2344; Nusa Pde; Mon-Fri) has flights to Tokua airport (K335,
bathrooms could do with an Air-Wick session of travelling New Ireland’s west coast, you mains K30-50; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) This has 35 minutes, three weekly), where you can
while the Deluxe and Standard rooms that might want to rejuvenate mind and body in the most pleasant setting, with a breezy also connect to Hoskins (K373) and Port
occupy the rear building are much more com- this stress-melting resort. The ethos here is terrace facing the sea. Food-wise, there’s Moresby. It also offers flights to Manus (K410,
fortable – good beds, private bathrooms, air- one of pampering and relaxation. And div- a little of everything for everyone, from twice weekly).
con. There’s an onsite restaurant and bar. ing (see p231). It’s a winning combination. satisfying breakfasts to burgers, and meat Airlink used to fly to Tokua but had gone
Kavieng Guesthouse (%/fax 984 1165; Emirau St; s/d There’s excellent swimming too; the Island dishes and seafood. Make a beeline for the bust at the time of writing. Another airline
incl breakfast K128/178; a) This family-run B&B in is partially ringed by a ribbon of white sand Sunday night barbecue (K40) and Saturday might have stepped in by the time you read
a peaceful neighbourhood gets good marks for lapped by topaz waters. Snorkelling oppor- lunch pizzas. this – check it out while in PNG.’
cleanliness and offers seven unpretentious but tunities abound on the nearby reefs. Food The bustling market (Nusa Pde; hMon-Sat) has
cosy rooms, some with private bathrooms. here is a definite plus; there are refined a good range of fresh fruit and vegetables in- BOAT
Shame that some beds are so saggy. Meals are dishes on offer, including vegetarian options. cluding the giant, yellow hand grenadelike Banana boats and work boats run to the
available on request (from K40). Good value Accommodation-wise, there are only seven pandanus fruit. You’ll also find several well- nearby islands. There are about two boats
if you can handle a sore back. traditional-style bungalows, which ensures stocked supermarkets in town. each week to Lavongai Island (passenger K40
Malagan Beach Resort (%984 2344; www.malgan intimacy. Four of them have private bath- to K50).
resort.com; Nusa Pde; s/d K360/410; as ) The rooms. Although they’re not the height of AROUND KAVIENG Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %984 2755; Tanga St;
Australian-run Malagan has a bit of an iden- luxury, they are fan-cooled, spacious, well Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; Nusa Lik Island; mains h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) sails to Rabaul usu-
tity problem; it bills itself as a tourist resort spaced from each other and comfortable. K15-30; hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Gourmand non- ally on Thursday or Friday (K120, from nine
but it mostly attracts businesspeople, govern- guests are welcome at Nusa Island Retreat to 15 hours, once weekly) and travels onto
ment officials, visiting workers and expats. Eating (call ahead to arrange transfers). Indeed, Kimbe (K220).
The functional two-storey, barracks-style IN KAVIENG it would be a shame to miss out on their
building features 16 serviceable units facing Tsang Sang Bakery (Djaul St; h6.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, dinner buffet (K50; by reservation). Or you CAR & PMV
the sea. They come equipped with the requi- to noon Sat) The only bakery in town has fresh could tuck into a copious burger at lunch- There are PMVs leaving Kavieng for
site mod cons, including air-con and satellite bread and sweet cakes available from about time and take a dip once you’ve digested Namatanai (K50, six to seven hours, six
TV, but feel a bit sombre due to dark-wood 7am. There’s not much left after 3pm. It’s your meal. This is the life! The toes-in-the- weekly) every day except Sunday. There
furniture. The grounds include a shady strip pretty basic and super cheap. sand dining area is adorable. are also passenger trucks and PMVs which
234 NEW IRELAND PROVINCE •• Lavongai (New Hanover) & East Islands lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • E a s t C o a s t 235
head some or all the way to Namatanai, or a Robinson Crusoe experience, right?).
elsewhere, every day but Sunday. Services to Bookings can be arranged through the tour- LIFE IN A (NEW) IRISH VILLAGE
the west coast, including Kontu and Tembin ist office in Kavieng. You’ll attract a lot of attention when you show up, but it’ll trail off; there’s a quiet respect for your
(K30), are irregular. Ask around in town. Tsoi Lik Lagoon Guesthouse (Tsoi Island; s incl 3 meals privacy in most villages. Take something (preferably lasting and useful) for the kids if you can,
There are a few car-hire companies in town. K120) A good place to kick off your shoes for but give it to the local school or bigman (leader) to redistribute. A football (there’s no describing
You’ll definitely need a 4WD if you plan to a few days. This little morsel of paradise is the joy), swimming goggles (you can carry quite a few and they’re functional) and pens are all
go as far as Namatanai and beyond. Count owned by the provincial administrator and good gifts. Salt, sugar and tea will be appreciated by your hosts in the more remote places, but
on K250 per day plus K1.10 per kilometre. has a lovely beachfront location. The two don’t worry about this if you’re on the tarmac road. If you’re way off the beaten track, BYO rice
If you’re going to the west coast, it’s not a rooms and the ablution block are in good or you’ll eat your hosts out of house and home.
bad idea to hire a driver (about K10 per hour nick. One proviso: there’s not much shade on A torch (flashlight), sleeping sheet, mosquito net, hammock, thongs (flip-flops; coral is sharp),
of driving). the property (don’t forget your sunblock). book and toilet-paper roll are useful items to take along. Most villages have pit-toilets these days,
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
Avis (%984 1190; Malagan Beach Resort) See p232. Island Escapades (Tunung Island; s incl 3 meals K150) but if not, ask about the customary spot in the river or sea.
Drimas (%984 1792; Tanga St) Flake out on a little sandy beach, snorkel in If you can, stay for Sunday. Whether you’re religious or not, you can’t fail to be moved by
Hertz (%984 2374; Malagan Beach Resort) See p232. the shallow, clear blue sea, play soccer with the whole community dressing up and heading off to church, then returning to discuss the
Kavieng Hotel (%984 2199; kavienghotel@daltron locals, or visit an elementary school. It’s a sermon.
.com.pg; Coronation Rd) Also rents 4WDs. tough life here. This guesthouse offers three
simple but charming bungalows made from
Getting Around woven sago leaves, and a clean ablution block, including lunch, snacks, kastom fees, mask Malom, 180km away. Further south, it’s a
PMVs around town cost 50t. The airport is amid a neat property that overlooks the beach. and snorkel, crew and skipper). gravel road in more or less good shape (de-
very close to town; most places to stay offer Not only is Clement, the young owner, well pending on the rains). It was the first real
free transfers. clued up, but he’s also a dedicated surfer (and EAST COAST road in PNG, constructed by the Germans
can take surfers to nearby spots). Guided hikes Outside Kavieng, the plunge into a more when they developed lucrative copra planta-
LAVONGAI (NEW HANOVER) & EAST on Lavongai can also be arranged (from K100 traditional world is immediate. Though the tions. There are a number of villages along the
ISLANDS per day). Feeling mushy? Ask for a candlelit east coast feels more ‘developed’ than the way where you can break up your journey.
Is this the province’s best-kept secret? Hop dinner. From Kavieng, it’s the furthest guest- west, with the Boluminski Hwy running Leaving Kavieng, the first major settle-
on a banana boat in Kavieng and check it house of the lot, on Tunung. most of its length, it still retains a rough ment is Matanasoi (or Liga) village, about
out yourself. Volcanic, ruggedly beautiful Mansava Adventure Lodge (Tsoi Boto Island; s incl diamondtype of rural edge to make it spe- 5km along the highway from Kavieng airport.
Lavongai Island, as well as the string of islands 3 meals K155) Ever dreamt of being a castaway, cial. It has lots of aesthetic appeal, shown There’s a limestone cave filled with crystal-
that lie scattered to the east, are the kind of but with a few comforts and a friendly family in its numerous beaches, limestone pinna- clear water. The Japanese used this grotto for
places that seem to emit a magnetic force. If to look after you? Well, this little guesthouse cles jutting out of the ocean and lagoons of drinking water.
you’re searching for paradise in its raw form, right on the beach fits the bill and offers an surpassing beauty. Twenty-three kilometres further is Putput
void of luxurious trappings (not a TV or a authentic slice of Island life. Digs are in two Adventure and nature may stir your and the trippy Treehouse Village Resort (%984
radio in sight), then look no further than this ramshackle bungalows on stilts, but that’s blood, but what will really sweep you off 2666; www.treehouse.com.pg; bungalow s/d A$105/130,
fascinating archipelago. Lavongai is a truly part of the charm. Each room comes with your feet are the stimulating people that live daily meals per person A$55), which has a series of
wild Island, complete with dense rainforest, a mosquito net and good bedding (by local here. The coast is liberally sprinkled with traditional-style, fan-cooled bungalows on
mountains, waterfalls and rivers. With just a standards), and the ablution block won’t communities where locals haven’t moved stilts overlooking the beach, where you can
handful of modest, homespun guesthouses, make your squirm. The kitchen cooks up away from subsistence traditions. It’s a re-enact your own Swiss Family Robinson
tourism in Lavongai and East Islands remains tasty meals, with such organic ingredients great idea to ditch your guidebook, remain fantasies. Two units are perched up a 200-
on a refreshingly humble scale. as megapode eggs (a delicious omelette!), for a few days and experience a village stay. year-old Calophyllum tree, above the din-
Such potential couldn’t remain ignored for- lobster, fish, sweet potatoes and taro. Digs are in basic bush-material huts, with ing room. A host of tours can be arranged,
ever, though. Some investors hope to make There’s excellent swimming and snorkel- no electricity and no running water. Meals including village visits, rainforest walks,
this archipelago one of the shining stars in ling offshore. To top it off, Boston Tusikai, are simple but nourishing (we hope you like canoe trips in the mangroves and snor-
the province’s tourism firmament. There were the owner, is a lot of fun…and a dedicated taro). Otherwise there are small trade stores kelling excursions. This quirky venture is
plans to build a few resorts on Lavongai and betel-nut chewer. around but they sell mostly tinpis (tinned owned by Alun Beck, a New Zealander, who
East Islands when we visited. The time to go fish) and rice. has become a local chief. Overall, it’s rustic
is now, before this haven of serenity is let out Getting There & Away Now it’s your turn to delve in, but take and a tad overpriced (try to get a discount),
of the bag. Truth is, it is not that easy to get to these your time: you won’t get to more than one, but amusing.
islands. There are usually banana boats from maybe two, places a day by public transport, About 40km from Kavieng is Lossuk Guest-
Sleeping & Eating Kavieng, but they run on an infrequent basis. and none on Sunday. house (s incl 3 meals K80), an acceptable place to
There is no formal accommodation on It takes about 1½ hours to get to Tsoi Island stay with one beachfront bungalow. At the
Lavongai. The following guesthouses are on (shared ride K40) and three hours to Tunung Boluminski Highway 90km mark it’s worth pulling over to see
East Islands, from where you can easily ac- (shared ride K100). Consider sailing here Yes, New Ireland has a highway, which runs Cathy Hiob’s Eels at Laraibina (ask for Munawai
cess Lavongai by dinghy. There’s no phone, with Adventures In Paradise Yacht Charters the 270km from Kavieng to Namatanai, mak- village). Cathy handfeeds some huge eels in
no electricity (except the odd generator, if (p230) or Imajica (p231). Charters cost about ing exploration easy along the east coast. It the river, which slither right past your hands.
you’re lucky) and no shops (but you wanted A$490 for a full-day sail (one or two people, is surfaced from Kavieng to shortly before Bring a tin of fish and K5.
236 N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • E a s t C o a s t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N E W I R E L A N D P R O V I N C E • • W e s t C o a s t 237
Fancy a dip? Dunk yourself in a crystal- ous contender for the title of best place to
clear, natural swimming pool upstream from stay on the east coast, it boasts a modernish SHARK CALLING
the bridge at Fissoa, in the grounds of the ablution block (flush toilets, hooray!) and Along the coast of New Ireland, especially the west coast between Konogogo and Kontu, the
Fissoa Vocational Centre. four tidy rooms (think decent mattresses ancient art of shark calling is practised. A loop-shaped rattle made of coconut shells splashing
It’s not a bad idea to pause in the large and and mosquito nets). We fell for the setting, in the water beguiles the shark into a handheld noose. The noose has a propeller-like wooden
attractive village of Bol, about 120km from right on a gorgeous beach by a turquoise piece fitted to it to cause drag and ‘lift’ in the water as the shark fights and tries to dive. The
Kavieng. Here you can bunk down in the spa- stream. Surfers take note: this is a good surf- buoyancy eventually exhausts the shark. The less artful bit comes next when the caller bludgeons
cious Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles (Bol’s Guesthouse; ing spot. Try not to turn up on Saturday (the the shark into some submission.
s incl 3 meals K150), which is a good place to see Adventists’ Sabbath). It’s believed that the shark won’t come if the caller is impure or does not respect the shark; shark
community life. It’s run by Demas Kavavu, and caller are connected. Shark callers ‘own’ certain sharks and theirs will come only to them.
who’s an interesting character who knows any- Namatanai Unfortunately these days, the brutal and unsustainable practice of shark finning by commercial
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
thing and everything on Malagan culture. The This is the second-largest town on New vessels is decimating the population of sharks.
three rooms are very simple but overlook the Ireland; it has a hotel, supermarket and a
beach, with Tabar Island looming on the ho- few stores (but no bank). Namatanai was
rizon. The weak points are the toilets (pit) and an important station in the days of German Banana boats travel between New Britain Namatanai, you can take a PMV to Uluputur
the showers (non-existent; prepare to bathe in occupation. Now it’s just a transit point and New Ireland. From Namatanai, get a (K10), and on to Konogogo (Kono) if you’re
the river). There’s a nice wave here in surf sea- on a pretty bay. You’ll get electricity only truck from the waterfront in the afternoon lucky. Further northwest is friendly Messi vil-
son (November to March). Another option in from 6pm to 10pm, despite the local hydro to any of a number of villages near Uluputur lage, under a jungle-covered limestone escarp-
Bol is Panafilla Village Guesthouse (s incl 3 meals K100), project. The Namatanai Hotel (%/fax 984 3057; on the west coast (K10). Kabanut is a common ment (there are climbing paths up if you wish
which is marginally better than Panatalis. s K80-150, d K130-200) is right on the site of the destination and has a good guesthouse. Stay to seek a view).
Located 4km south of Bol, Libba village is old German station house by the water- the night (often at the truck driver’s place, Between Messi and Kontu there are many
a great place to look at Malagan art and stock front. The six fusty rooms will suffice at a K20) then catch a speedboat (K50) to Kokopo rivers; in the wet they can be impassable
up on handicrafts. The village is home to stretch. Meals are available for about K30. A in New Britain in the morning. (particularly the Ungana). The road gets
master carver Ben Sisia. Ben charges K5 to much more welcoming option is Boluminski very rough here even in dry weather. You
see the Malagan house where a piece might Guesthouse (% 984 3077; s/d without bathroom WEST COAST might get lucky and catch a lift with a 4WD
sell for the K100 mark – be very respect- K85/120), a B&B-like venture run by Robert With its limited infrastructure and lack of utility. Otherwise, you can arrange a boat
ful. Even the village church is carved in the and Sandy, who will adopt you. The four regular public transport, the west coast poses (charter K120) to reach Kontu, which has a
local style. fan-cooled rooms are simple but there’s not a few travel challenges. To those willing to guesthouse. The fascinating and ancient art
In Konos you can arrange for a boat to a speck of dirt to be found. The bathrooms accept, the rewards are many. The region’s of shark calling can be arranged for K45,
take you to Tabar Island (p238). There are a are tip top and the mattresses are thick. prime draw is its ancient traditions; between but you’ll be paying K45 more if a shark is
few good beaches near the village. Knowledgeable Robert is happy to guide Kontu and Konogogo (Kono) the fascinat- actually caught. Five or so kilometres north
In Malom village, 25km south of Konos you to various sites worthy of interest in the ing tradition of shark calling is practised of Kontu at Tembin, you’ll find another wel-
(and 181km from Kavieng), the well-run area, including waterfalls and WWII relics (see boxed text, above), especially in Kontu coming guesthouse.
Malom Guesthouse (s incl 3 meals K120) is a good (from K40). Meals cost from K20. It’s in a and Tembin. To reach Kontu and Tembin, there’s an
place to rest your head. The setting is en- verdant property about 3km from the centre. The beautiful, lonely, potholed west coast alternative, shorter route from Kavieng via
chanting, with lots of greenery, and it’s a Recommended for solo women travellers. road is all unsealed with a stretch either side Fangalawa (east coast) and Lamusmus (west
short stagger from the beach. Your gracious of Kontu that will challenge the toughest coast). You may find a PMV that plies this
host, Cathy Benson, is a good cook too. GETTING THERE & AWAY 4WD. In the wet season even a 4WD won’t route from Kavieng (chances are slim; ask at
The turn-off to Lelet Plateau (opposite) is PMVs for Kavieng leave here at 9am to manage some river crossings. the tourist bureau, p229).
just after Malom. There’s a village guesthouse 10am and arrive from Kavieng at about There are just a few ‘formal’ places to From the west coast, it’s possible to catch
(s incl 3 meals K80) further down at Dalom. A seri- 5pm (K45). stay along this coast, but visitors are so a boat to New Britain (opposite).
rare that there should be no trouble stay-
ing elsewhere. Most villages have a tra- LELET PLATEAU
BOLUMINSKI HIGHWAY FROM THE SADDLE ditional boihaus (basically a guesthouse) The 1200m plateau is cool enough to grow
Feel like enjoying the scenery and atmosphere from the saddle instead of a seat in a car or PMV? and you may be invited to stay, although vegetables. There are no rivers; perhaps
Cycling is an ecofriendly and cheap way to discover New Ireland’s east coast along cycle-friendly women might have trouble if there’s a that’s why rain magic is practised. There’s an
Boluminski Hwy. You can choose your own pace and become intimate with local communities. man staying already (which is unlikely). enormously deep cave, as yet unfathomed,
Boluminski Hwy seems to have been purpose-built for cycling, with very little traffic, no pollution, Always leave a gift of about K40, plus as well as some bat caves near Mongop.
a surfaced road that’s perfectly flat, and a number of guesthouses conveniently located along about K15 a meal or some food. Bring You can stay at the Puroro Guest House (s incl
the way. You can cover the whole stretch in four to five days. emergency supplies of food, including 3 meals K100).
Guided cycling tours around Kavieng and down the Boluminski Hwy can be organised rice and sugar. Women travellers should There’s a road leading up from the
through Tabo Meli’s Rainbow Tours (New Ireland Tourist Bureau %984 2441; www.newirelandtourism try and get in touch with local women in Boluminski Hwy just after Malom village.
.org.pg; Tanga St; daily bicycle hire K100; h7.45am-4pm) and Nusa Island Retreat (%984 2247; www the villages. Catch a passenger or cargo truck head-
.nusaislandretreat.com.pg; Nusa Lik island; daily bicycle hire K105). The main gateway to the west coast is ing across from Kavieng market (p229) on
Namatanai (opposite) on the east coast. From Wednesday or Saturday afternoon.
238 MA N U S P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA N U S P R O V I N C E • • M a n u s & L o s N e g r o s I s l a n d s 239
THE SOUTH
The southern ‘bulge’ of the Island is the birth- MANUS PROVINCE depending on fish and some agriculture. The
Usiai are inland people who are exclusively
best season runs from November to March.
The merciless reef off Ahus Island is terrific. It
place of Tambuan culture. For foreigners, gardeners and hunters. gets up to 3.6m at times, so take care.
Very few travellers make it to remote Manus
this is the holy grail in adventure travel. Carving has virtually died out in the prov- Lorengau is famous for its high-quality
Province, which consists of Manus itself plus
This area has no real history of tourism ince, although the people of Bipi Island still do basketware. Look for the souvenirs of your
a scattering of tiny islands, and it’s no won-
and therefore visits will often prove to be some. Examples can be viewed in the Lorengau dreams in the main stores on the main drag.
der: New Britain and New Ireland boast more
an expedition. council office. Spears decorated with shark’s
in-your-face attractions. Despite a wonder-
There are high-altitude lakes, deep val- ful marine environment, Manus Province is
teeth were produced in the Western Islands. Sleeping & Eating
leys, mighty rivers, a huge number of rare If you want to dine out, there are a few modest
considered less attractive and the infrastruc-
orchids, frogs and, it’s suspected, creatures ture is not as diverse as in the neighbouring MANUS & LOS NEGROS ISLANDS kai bars in town.
that are still unknown to science. Who Bad luck for Manus Island: it was a hot spot Lorengau Kohai Lodge (%470 9004; fax 470 9263;
provinces. On the plus side, there are plenty of
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
knows, you might even come across a frac- for keen divers for many years – the marine Lorengau Rd; s/d K100/120; a ) Situated to the
DIY opportunities. Take a short trip inland or
tious gathering of Tyrannosaurus Rex. Send environment is world-class – but the local east of the bay, this is a simple spot, with
a market boat to one of the islands and you’ll
us the picture. dive shop closed down in 2007. Since then, a cosy communal living room and an
find yourself in another century.
Given the lack of infrastructure and public the number of visitors has dropped. Expensive onsite restaurant.
transport, this area lends itself to a DIY ap- air fares don’t help. If you want to have an Lorengau Harbourside Hotel (%470 9262; fax 470
proach. Prepare well for a freestyle trip into History idea of what you’ve missed out on, log on to 9392; Teyota Pl; s K200, d K220-260; a) This is the
the unknown. From Namatanai, it’s possi- The tiny Western Islands and Wuvulu www.divepngmanus.com. best-equipped venue in town. All rooms
ble to walk, canoe and boat right around the Island are peopled by the descendants of While divers may whine, twitchers and na- have a fridge, phone, TV and a veranda, and
Island’s southern tip. You’ll come across Micronesian settlers from the north. Their ture lovers will jubilate: one of the first things you can pay by Visa and MasterCard here. It
hamlets with such exotic names as Samo, fishing methods included fish traps and you’ll notice about Manus and Los Negros has an enchanting setting too, with its coco-
Rei, Siar, Maliom… You’ll need plenty of kite fishing. islands is the distinctive call of the chauca nut trees and lots of flowers. Food is avail-
time because it’s easy to get stranded. German colonists arrived in 1911 and bird. These birds are unique to the region, as able, and the bar closes at 10pm. Although
Once you approach Kabanut on the missionaries landed a while later, though is a variety of sea snail that has a vivid green it’s a solid option, it’s on the pricey side.
western side, you’ll find transport back to they found it harsh and dangerous, and the shell. Another local you’ll hear is a rokrok The place to head to for a chilled beer in
Namatanai. After several days (weeks?) in locals found them rather appetising. (frog) whose bizarre croak sounds like a dis- the evening is Ron Knight’s bar (hdaily), which
isolated wilderness, chances are you’ll be The Japanese invaded in 1942 and were tant person nailing down a tin roof! There are floats on a couple of old ammunition barges
hardly recognisable. later evicted by the Allies who constructed lots of crocodiles here too. that Ron hauled up manually from deep
a huge naval base and airstrip (at Momote) The provincial capital, Lorengau, is the under the harbour.
EASTERN ISLAND GROUPS from which to invade the Philippines. only town, which is stretched along Seeadler
There are five Island groups strung off the Harbour. This very casual place livens up on Getting There & Away
east coast of New Ireland – Tabar, Lihir, Geography & Climate weekends when ‘baptism of fire’ sermons Momote airport, 35km east of Lorengau, on
Tanga, Green and Feni. They are only 30km Eastern Manus and Los Negros are uplifted are preached to an enthusiastic crowd. It Los Negros Island, is linked to the capital
to 50km offshore. coral formations while Southwest Bay is a has a Bank South Pacific, a post office and Lorengau, on Manus Island, by 30km of
Apart from Tabar, none of these has any flooded caldera. There are large limestone a hospital. sealed road. A bridge crosses the narrow
formal lodging, and Lihir has the only reg- caves in the central area of the Island. Other If you head to Los Negros Island, east of Loniu Passage in between.
ular transport. Air Niugini flies there daily islands, Rambutyo, Lou, Baluan and M’Buke, Lorengau, check out the remains of the US air- Air Niugini (%470 9092) flies to Kavieng from
from Port Moresby. A boat from Namatanai are spent volcanoes. base at Lombrum. There’s a fine anti-aircraft Manus Island on Sunday and Monday, re-
will cost K60. The locations are all lovely, Manus Province’s daily temperatures are gun as you enter, and rows of old hangers. turning on Wednesday and Friday (K410),
but rather impractical to visit. a moderate 24°C to 30°C. It’s a rainy place General MacArthur’s headquarters is still in to Lae from Manus Island on Wednesday,
Lihir Island has an enormous open-face with drier months from September through use by the PNG Navy. The former Australian returning on Monday (K488), and to Port
gold mine that looks like a Mayan tem- December. There are cyclones (and surfing refugee detention centre, where asylum seek- Moresby from Manus Island on Friday, re-
ple (the gold seems to fly straight to Port opportunities) from November to March. ers who were arriving in Australia were proc- turn via Lae on Monday (K681).
Moresby). Feni, Tanga and Green islands essed during Australia’s ‘Pacific Solution’ There’s usually one weekly boat operating
are covered in dense, steamy jungle and are Culture days, is located here too. Near Loniu Passage between Lae and Manus. Ask at your hotel
almost untouched. The people of Manus Province are predomi- is Loniu Cave (admission K5), where people hid dur- for more information on schedules.
Tabar Island is a stronghold of Malagan nantly Melanesian; Micronesians dominate ing the war. Take a torch, dodge the bats and
culture. Carvers Edward Sale, Leppan and in the Western Islands. The atoll-dwellers don’t slip. Getting Around
Maris Memenga came from Tabar and their have no arable land, and they trade fish and You can swim with kids on both sides of You can charter speedboats at the water-
works (located on Tatau Island) are regarded lime for fruit and vegetables. the bridge or take a boat to Salamei Beach front (daily hire excluding petrol K100).
as masterpieces. There’s lodging and large The Manus people (sometimes referred on Rarah Island, about 2km from Lorengau. A The best way is to go as a passenger when
meals available at Andi’s Guesthouse (r K50). You to as Titans) occupy the south and south- waterfall and swimming hole is in the Lorengau the boats head back from the market late
can get to Tatau from Konos or adjacent vil- west islands and share a common language: River, 5km upstream from town. in the morning.
lages (passenger rides/charter rides K50/500, Titan. They depend entirely on fishing. The For daredevil surfing fiends, there are wicked You can catch PMVs between Lorengau
2½ hours). Matangol live to the south, east and north, waves to catch all through the islands. The and Lombrum, but that’s all. You’ll have
240 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • H i s t o r y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • G e o g r a p h y & C l i m a t e 241
to hitch in from the airport (easy) or book phere that prevailed several years ago, even if
ahead and get picked up. Airport transfers the civil war still looms large in the psyche of SECESSION, WAR & PEACE
cost K30. many islanders. The province is now poised In the 1960s and early 1970s, the North Solomons began a push to break away from Australian
for a great regeneration, thanks to a wealth of colonial control, climaxing in land disputes over the proposed Panguna mine.
OTHER ISLANDS natural resources, including gold and cocoa, Before PNG independence, Bougainville pushed for an independent grouping of the Bismarck
Manus Province comprises a handful of very and its status within PNG – it has brokered Archipelago. In 1974 secessionist movements sprang up.
remote offshore islands, including Wuvulu a special autonomy status to control its own In 1987 the Panguna Landowners Association was formed, led by Pepetua Sereo and Francis
Island, which was made famous by Jean-Michel destiny. There’s huge potential for ecotourism, Ona. It demanded better environmental protection, huge back-payments of profits from the mine
Cousteau when he conducted several Project diving, surfing, trekking, caving, cycling, kay- and US$10 billion in compensation. These demands were not met and in 1988 the Bougainville
Ocean Search expeditions in the 1970s. aking, bird-watching and fishing, but there’s Revolutionary Army (BRA), an offshoot of the landowners’ association, began to sabotage the
Other islands worthy of note are Hermit and little in the way of infrastructure and organised mine. Relations between the locals and police sent to protect the mine deteriorated sharply.
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
Ninigo, about 240km to the northnortheast activities (for now). The BRA’s numbers were bolstered by sympathisers from other parts of the country and even
of Wewak. Wherever you go in this province, you’re a religious cult.
Due to their far-flung location, these spots unlikely to cross paths with other travellers. All Increasing attacks on mine workers resulted in the mine’s closure in 1989 – an enormous blow
rarely see foreign visitors, bar a few divers the better for you: this less visited part of the to the PNG economy. A state of emergency was declared, the PNG army moved in and the conflict
on live-aboards (starting from Wewak). country remains something of a ‘secret’, which spread to the rest of the island. Whole villages were moved into ‘care centres’, areas outside BRA
Mouse-click your way on www.mvgolden adds to the sense of adventure. Go now. control. To ensure that the people moved, the army burned their villages and stories about rape
dawn.com for more information. and murder flooded out of Bougainville. The Panguna issue became a civil war – at the height
History of the conflict, there were 60,000 people displaced.
There’s evidence that humans settled on In 1990 the PNG government withdrew its forces and instituted a blockade, which led to
NORTH SOLOMONS Bougainville at least 28,000 years ago.
Spanish mariner Luis Vaez de Torres passed
great hardship for the Bougainvilleans. The BRA declared independence, forming the Republic of
Meekamui on 17 May. Bougainville slipped back into primitivism. The BRA brought over supplies
PROVINCE through in 1606, but Bougainville acquired its
name from French explorer Captain Louis-
from the nearby Solomon Islands and the PNG army, in retaliation, caused international tension
by raiding suspected BRA bases in the Solomon Islands, killing innocent people.
Welcome to what is possibly the most special Antoine de Bougainville who sailed up the In February 1997 the Sandline Affair hit the headlines. In a highly secret operation then–prime
province in the country. In many ways, the east coast in 1768. minister Julius Chan contracted a mercenary company to put down the rebels. The plan was
islands that comprise the North Solomons European settlements were established as exposed and there was an international outcry. Days of heavy tension in Port Moresby saw
(Buka, Bougainville and a scattering of smaller the German New Guinea Company began rioting and looting in the streets with people calling for Chan to stand down. He did and the
atolls) feel different, and the influence of the trading in the late 1890s. Bougainville and mercenaries – South Africans mostly – were deported. This act of lunacy hastened efforts to find
PNG mainland is a distant memory. Look at a Buka were considered part of the Solomons a peaceful outcome for Bougainville.
map, and you’ll see why: the North Solomons group, a British possession, until 1898 when In March 2002 PNG Parliament passed legislation to give legal effect to the autonomy ar-
are closer to the neighbouring Solomon Islands they were traded to Germany. Australia seized rangements contained in a peace agreement, which includes a referendum for an independent
than they are to PNG. The international bor- the North Solomons, with the rest of New Bougainville state by 2020. The PNG Defence Force (PNGDF) withdrew for the last time in April
der between the two countries passes just a Guinea, at the start of WWI. 2003. Weapons were surrendered to the UN, and certain amnesties and pardons were granted.
few kilometres south of Bougainville Island. The Japanese arrived in 1942, swiftly de- In mid-2004 the first divisions of local police graduated their training. Francis Ona, leader of the
The Shortland and Choiseul islanders in the feating the Australians and holding most BRA, died in 2006.
Solomons are very close to Bougainvilleans, of the Island until the end of the war. Buka At the time of writing the situation had stabilised except in the ‘no-go zone’ near Panguna
culturally and ethnically – both have jet- became an important air base, and Buin, at (see p29 for the latest developments).
black skin. Around PNG, Bougainvilleans are the southern tip of Bougainville, was a base
known as ‘blackskins’ or ‘bukas’, and often the for ground troops. In 1943 American troops
whole North Solomons region is referred to captured the port of Torokina and Australian Geography & Climate hilly region. Another 166 islands spread over
as Bougainville. forces were fighting their way south towards Bougainville is volcanic, about 200km long 450,000 sq km of sea. It’s the most earthquake-
This province is best known for its tumultu- Buin. Of 80,000 Japanese troops only 23,000 and covered in jungle. The Crown Prince, prone area of the country.
ous history. Until the secessionist rebellion, it were taken prisoner; 20,000 are thought to Emperor and Deuro ranges make up the cen- The province is hot and wet, with some
had the most productive economy, best edu- have been killed in action and the remain- tral spine and Mt Bagana frequently erupts. areas getting more than 5m of annual rainfall.
cation and the most well-run government. ing 37,000 died of disease and starvation in Mt Balbi, the Island’s highest point at 2685m, The drier period on Buka Island is between
Between 1972 and its 1989 closure, the Panguna the jungles. There’s a moving monument is a dormant volcano; Benua Cave is perhaps May and October.
mine made 45% of PNG’s export earnings. But to the Japanese dead atop Sohano Island’s the world’s largest at 4.5 million cubic metres.
‘the Crisis’ shattered all progress and much cliff. The Island has many natural harbours, and Culture
infrastructure was devastated. In 1964 a major copper discovery was large swamps on its western edge. Intricately woven Buka baskets are made
After 10 years of conflict, life has largely made at Panguna and more than K400 Buka Island is formed almost entirely of all over the country except here, it seems,
returned to normal. There is no longer any million was invested in a mine and its ancil- raised coral. It’s separated from Bougainville where they originated. The baskets are made
fighting and most of the province is safe to lary operations. A new town, roads, a power Island by Buka Passage, a tidal channel only from jungle vine, and the variation in col-
explore. Once-forbidden routes are opening station and a port were constructed, and thou- 300m wide and a kilometre long. Buka Island our is achieved by scraping the skin off the
up. Gone is the rather sullen, oppressed atmos- sands of workers descended. is generally low-lying, apart from a southern vine. They can be simple drink coasters or
242 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B u k a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B o u g a i n v i l l e 243
giant laundry baskets, and they’re the most water’s surface. Riding in a banana boat in Buka (from K10). If you want to snorkel, resort has been developed by the MacNabs,
skilfully made, solid and durable baskets Buka Passage is a buzz. Banana boats congre- seek permission first from the locals. Tours an Australian family that settled in here a
in the Pacific. They were originally made gate near the animated market (hTue-Sat) and can be arranged with Kuri Village Resort few decades ago. Due to open in 2008, it
by the Siwai and Telei people of southwest the passage is abuzz with these small crafts (see below). deserves credit for breathing much-needed
Buka Island. plying between the town and Kokopau village A word of warning: avoid snorkelling in life (and comfort) into the hotel scene. Still
There are 23 languages in the North (opposite Buka on Bougainville Island). Buka Passage; you could wind up lost at sea a building site when we visited, with only
Solomons; Tok Pisin is the second main lan- You can also take a boat ride to explore because of the current, and the boat traffic on one bungalow completed, it looked prom-
guage but most people speak English well. The the idyllic islands near the southern mouth the surface is pretty intense. ising (50 rooms are planned). The resort’s
people of Takuu (Mortlock) and Nukumani of the passage and beyond. Good swimming central concept is aimed at surfies, couples,
islands are Polynesian. spots are on these islands. The most easily SLEEPING & EATING friends and backpackers, with a wide range
North Solomon Islanders have a matrilineal accessible is Sohano Island, a few minutes by Buka’s lodging options are nothing to crow of prices. It’s hard not to be charmed by
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
system of clan membership and inheritance boat from Buka. It was the provincial capital about. The hotel clientele is mostly busi- the location, under the canopy of coconut
rights. Most still live in bush-material housing from WWII until 1960. It’s a beautiful place ness workers and NGOs. Prices include trees (it’s a copra plantation) and right
in villages and grow cash crops. with lawns and gardens, a Japanese monu- airport transfers. by an expansive lagoon. A wide range of
ment and war relics, steep craggy cliffs and Lumankoa Guesthouse (%973 9779, 973 9097; fax activities will be available, including surf-
panoramic views over town, the passage and 973 9806; Buka; s incl 3 meals K120-170) Nothing fancy ing, diving, snorkelling and fishing. Watch
BUKA ISLAND Bougainville Island. There are some colonial- happens at this weatherboard house, but it’s this space.
Buka Island is mostly covered with copra period buildings. The weird Tchibo Rock stands the cheapest accommodation in town. Bring Destiny Fast Food (Buka; mains K7; hlunch Mon-
plantations. To the southern tip of the Island, just offshore from Sohano’s northernmost a straightjacket: the bare-bones rooms are Sat) If you’re looking for a quick bite, this
Buka is the centre of activity in the province point and figures in many local legends. It’s cramped enough to frustrate a sardine. Luckily, popular institution dishes up a variety of
and the main gateway to the islands. said to have magical properties. The banana- there’s an agreeable garden where you can well-prepared stews.
boat fare to Sohano Island is K2. breathe easier. Bathrooms are shared. Beware Kakema Bakery (Buka; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 6am-
Buka Further south, Madehas Island, Christmas the appalling sandwiches served at lunch. 4pm Sat, 2-7pm Sun) Come early morning for
An ambitious town, Buka used to be a tiny Island, White Island and Sal Island, blessed with Hani’s Inn (%973 9930, 973 9066; hanisinn@daltron fresh bread and belt-busting cakes.
place but it has boomed in the last 15 years, lovely reefs and gorgeous beaches, are well .com.pg; Buka; s/d K154/176; ai) Don’t judge a
during the war and afterwards, and now has worth the 20- to 30-minute boat ride from book by its cover. The appealing turquoise GETTING THERE & AROUND
many new buildings and residents. Although façade gives the impression that you’re enter- Air Niugini (%973 9655; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) flies
tourist sights are as scarce as hen’s teeth, it’s BUKA PASSAGE ing a doll’s house. Inside, it’s much less eye in via Rabaul four times a week. One-way
worth spending a day or two soaking up the 0 400 m candy, with itty-bitty rooms, joyless greyish full fares include Rabaul K390 and Port
0 0.2 miles
atmosphere and chatting with the locals. It walls, lino floors and average beds. Otherwise Moresby K837.
To Hutjena
feels so exotic to be the only foreigner wan- 7
A Airport (2km) B it’s a safe-bet pad, with good facilities, includ- Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; %982 1070; Rabaul)
dering in the streets, and people are genuinely 3
ing a bar and a restaurant, and functional sails once a week to Rabaul (K130 to K250).
interested in talking with a ‘real’ tourist. Most 1
Hospital Buka I bathrooms. If you ask, you can get fresh Rabaul is also serviced by Agmark Shipping
of the shops and services are on, or just off, seafood meals. Credit cards are accepted but (%973 9654; Kokopau) but the schedule is er-
Buka 2
the main waterfront strip of Buka. 5
1 there’s a 5% commission. Internet is available ratic; check while you’re there.
Buka remains an important port for copra if you ask nicely (K20 per hour). Water taxis are the way to get around the
e
ag
9
and cocoa; but for travellers, it serves prima- Kuri Village Resort (%973 9155, 973 9151; fax Buka Passage area (K1). PMVs, Landcruiser
ss
rily as a point of departure to Bougainville. To Arawa (120km); 973 9161; Buka; s K198-242, d K237-249; a) Run by Troop Carriers, ferry people down the coast
Pa
Market
Buin (195km)
Water Laurens, a local politician, this resort is as road of Bougainville to Arawa (and on to
a
INFORMATION Taxis
‘upscale’ as this Island goes and it’s something Buin, K100), five hours away, for a steep
uk
Bank South Pacific (%973 9752; h8.45am-3pm of an institution in the province. Many rec- K60. You have to go to Kokopau across the
B
Kokopau
Mon-Thu, to 4pm Fri) Changes cash and can do cash 2 10 Bougainville onciliation agreements between rival factions passage and then book a seat by 9am, even
8
advances on your Visa card; be prepared for long queues. 6 were signed in the restaurant after ‘the Crisis’ though the vehicles leave at 11am or noon
Has an ATM (open 6am to 7pm daily; Visa only). Travel- INFORMATION (see boxed text, p241). It’s hard to say what (no services on Sunday).
Bank South Pacific..................1 A1
lers cheques are difficult to change and involves calling 4
Post Office.............................2 A1 is the bigger drawcard: the clean-smelling
Australia; it’s a lengthy process.
SLEEPING
rooms occupying a renovated warehouse BOUGAINVILLE
Post office (%973 9703; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Hani's Inn ..............................3 A1 at the back of the property (upstairs rooms The name ‘Bougainville’ might put a few
Beside the bank. Kuri Village Resort.................4 A2 are better, especially rooms 318 to 323); the worry lines on loved ones’ faces, but the re-
Lumankoa Guesthouse...........5 A1
To Madehas Island Resort; freestanding, bamboo-style bungalows scat- ality is a lot tamer than spring break parties
Madehas Island;
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Christmas Island;
EATING
Destiny Fast Food..................6 A2
tered in the garden; or the bar-restaurant with at Daytona Beach (when we visited, at least).
White Island;
A particular highlight in Buka is the pas- 3 Sal Island Kakema Bakery......................7 A1 a wide deck overlooking the Buka passage. Now the most turbulent aspect of the Island
sage, which refers to the channel that sepa- Tchibo Rock TRANSPORT
Credit cards are accepted. is its volcanic landscape.
rates Buka Island from Bougainville Island. Agmark Shipping...................8 B2 Madehas Island Resort (%973 9063; Madehas Bougainville Island is the main Island:
Sohano I Air Niugini..............................9 A1
The water runs at about 6 knots when the Japanese Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships) 10 A2
Island) Providing evidence that locals believe green, rugged and little-developed. The to-
tide is fast, making deep undulations on the Monument
in the tourist potential of Bougainville, this pography is grandiose, with thick forests,
© Lonely Planet Publications
244 N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B o u g a i n v i l l e lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H S O L O M O N S P R O V I N C E • • B o u g a i n v i l l e 245
concentrate was piped down from Panguna, the Shortlands in the Solomon Islands (see
VOICES: MOSES KOLIWAN, CURRENT CHAIRMAN OF BOUGAINVILLE INTERIM the site of the power station and home to boxed text, p314).
TOURISM BOARD many of the mine workers. There’s a palpable
Bougainville is hell-bent on consigning its association with civil war and insecurity to history’s feel of nostalgia in Arawa. The old buildings Sleeping & Eating
dustbin. Who better than 49-year-old Moses, an ex-teacher on Bougainville, to tell us about the and the workers’ quarters, still visible, testify Taga Guest Haus (Tinputz; s incl 2 meals K75) Facilities
current situation and the future of this island? to a prosperous past. Some people still conjure are rudimentary (no fan, no electricity, shared
up this glorious past, ‘when Arawa was the bathrooms, no mosquito nets but window
Is it safe to travel around Bougainville? Bougainville is now opened up for travel. Safety is no richest town in PNG’. screens), but Gladys and Paul, your hosts, will
longer a concern, except a residual and occasional roadblock to the south, but we’re working The ArawaBuin section (about three go out of their way to make you feel at home.
on this. Travellers can easily check out the situation when they arrive in Buka. hours by vehicle) was still a bit tricky when Paul is the leader of the Sinamo community
we visited, due to the odd checkpoint control- based in Namatoa, way up in the moun-
ISLAND PROVINCES
ISLAND PROVINCES
Are travellers made to feel welcome? Outsiders may find that Bougainvilleans don’t smile a led by so-called Bougainville Revolutionary tains, and can arrange a hike to Namatoa
lot, but that doesn’t mean they don’t like you; they just need some time and confidence to ex- Army (BRA) diehards (locals prefer to call Crater Lake.
press their feelings. Many people are still traumatised. Despite the sad times they went through, them raskols) south of Aropa. They some- Arawa Women’s Training Centre (%279 9927;
Bougainvilleans are very friendly and hospitable. And they are surprised to see foreigners for it’s times turn foreigners back or ask them for Arawa; s incl 2 meals K100-110) This is a good place to
been such a long time since real tourists last visited the island. whatever money they need. Don’t panic: this recharge the batteries. It’s safe (even for solo
‘checkpoint’ is apparently very occasional, women travellers) and very well maintained,
What are the island’s main drawcards? There’s a lot to see and do, but nobody knows. We and by the time you read this, there should reflected in its tidy rooms and crisply dressed
have superb trekking options across the island. Mt Balbi and Balbi Lake are definite must-sees, be no more checkpoints or roadblocks on the beds. Bathrooms are shared, and electric-
as is Mt Bagana, an active volcano. There’s also fantastic potential for water-based activities, Island. Monitor the news when you arrive ity runs from 8am to 2pm and from 5pm to
including kayaking, snorkelling and diving. Our reefs are absolutely pristine and marine life is in Buka. 10pm. Good, copious meals can be prepared
exceptional. Picnic trips on offshore islands can also be arranged. And, of course, there’s the About 260km south of Buka, Buin really on request (K18) but no alcohol is served.
culture. Travellers can experience a real off-the-beaten-track experience staying in villages and feels like the end of the line. It suffered less Buin has a few basic places to stay, includ-
living with the community. damage than Kieta and Arawa during the ing Kepa Guest House.
conflict. During WWII, Buin hosted a large
What are the plans for the future? Infrastructures are sorely lacking. The next stage is to build Japanese army base and the area has many Getting There & Around
capacity, with a few coastal and mountain resorts, well, small units, such as ecolodges, as well rusting relics. The Japanese had plans to reset- The most convenient way to get around
as community-based guesthouses on the island. We also aim to create a consistent travel route tle a huge number of civilian Japanese at an Bougainville Island is by PMV. There’s only
within PNG that would take in Bougainville, and link it better to the Shortlands in the Solomon area called Little Tokyo. one main gravel road, running down the east
Islands. In this respect, we need to have a proper border post at Buin. And maybe we could Admiral Yamamoto’s aircraft wreck is the coast to Arawa and Kieta, and on to Buin to
extend the airstrip so that we could get international flights from neighbouring countries. But area’s most historically interesting wreck. the south. It’s in good condition but not all
we need time! Admiral Isoroku Yamamoto, who planned of the rivers are bridged and the road fords
the attack on Pearl Harbour, left Rabaul in several of them. Some sections might be im-
a ‘Betty Bomber’ on 18 April 1943 with a passable for a few hours, even days, after heavy
towering volcanoes, tumbling rivers, azure (1730m). In Wakunai, your best source of protective group of Zeros, not realising that rains; take this into consideration on your way
lagoons, plunging waterfalls, giant caves and information is Suzie Akoitai. US fighters were waiting for him near Buin. back to Buka if you fly out.
impenetrable valleys that slithers into the Continuing further south, you’ll drive past The wreckage of the bomber still lies in the Regular PMVs ply the route between
mountains. More often than not, swirling the infamous Morgan Junction, where you can jungle a few kilometres off the PangunaBuin Kokopau and Buin via Arawa (you might have
banks of cloud add a touch of the bizarre. catch a glimpse of the roadblock that blocks road. It’s signposted, near Aku, 24km be- to stay overnight in Arawa). It costs K60 to
For now, visitors can have the Island pretty access to the ‘no-go zone’ and Panguna (still off- fore Buin. From Buin it’s a skip and a hop Arawa (five hours) and K100 to Buin (eight
much to themselves. There’s huge potential limits at the time of writing). High in the centre to Kangu Beach, the obvious launching pad to to nine hours).
for small-scale tourism, but still nothing in the of the Island, the dormant mine of Panguna
way of organised activities; it’s DIY travel. is one of the world’s largest artificial holes.
Starting from Kokopau, you’ll head due Bougainville Copper Limited was the operator
south and traverse several coastal commu- of the open-cut mine. Copper was discovered at
nities where time seems to have stood still. Panguna in 1964 (see boxed text, p241). There
Why not pull over in picturesque Tinputz, a are talks of re-opening the mine once the situ-
one-hour drive to the south? There’s a friendly ation is fully stabilised. Stay tuned.
guesthouse (see p243). About 10km south of Morgan Junction,
A good base, Wakunai is where you can ar- you’ll reach Arawa and Kieta, which are virtu- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
range a three-day trek to Mt Balbi (2685m), or ally contiguous. Both were severely damaged restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
follow the Nooma Nooma track that crosses during the conflict (see boxed text, p241).
the Island to Torokina, on the west coast Whole neighbourhoods have been abandoned. only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
(count on a three-day minimum). From Four kilometres northwest of Arawa is Loloho everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
Mt Balbi, you can see the active Mt Bagana on Arawa Bay, the port to which the copper the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
246 lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 247
SOLOMON ISLANDS
seafloor between Guadalcanal and Tulagi. Kayaking, surfing and fishing are also here. Above and a modicum of nightlife (yes, nightlife).
Solomon Islanders’ duties to their clan and
the surface, plenty of WWII relics scattered in the jungle will captivate history buffs. village bigman (leader) are eternal and trans- It’s also the optimal launching pad for
geographic. Kastom (or traditional ways) exploring Guadalcanal’s outdoors and the
The question, though, is this: after a few years of civil strife, how safe is the country? Thanks various WWII battlefields around the city.
involves dances, songs and storytelling. See
to foreign aid, the Solomons is bouncing back and visitors will feel more than welkam. Yes, you p33 for more information on culture. For those who come from Port Moresby,
can do pretty much whatever you want, and will be limited only by your imagination. Honiara might just seem like heaven
on earth.
The best part is, there’ll be no crowds to share in the experience. GUADALCANAL Orientation
The largest island in the Solomon group, The central area extends from the post office
HIGHLIGHTS
Guadalcanal hosts the national capital, to Chinatown and can easily be covered in
Taking a dip in a natural pool at Mataniko Falls (p258) or Tenaru Falls (p259) Honiara. There’s no iconic calling card but a 30-minute walk along Mendana Ave, the
a host of cultural sights. There are a couple backbone of central Honiara, which runs
Testing your Indiana Jones side in untamed Weathercoast (p261)
of natural wonders and fantastic diving at eastwest parallel to the seashore. In this
Huffing to the top of the mount on Kolombangara Island (p274) to admire the Jurassic Iron Bottom Sound, the famous graveyard precinct, you’ll find the central market, the
Park–like scenery of WWII’s Battle for Guadalcanal, just off port complex, shops, embassies, banks, ho-
Soothing your chakras at a laid-back resort on Mbabanga Island (p272) the north coast. Outside Honiara, the island tels and restaurants.
Diving and snorkelling in fish soup in Marovo Lagoon (p266)
has the genuine look of a lost world. The The 11km-urban spread along the coast
hills behind the capital eventually become has the settlements of Rove and White River
Feeling free in an intimate lodge at Langa Kolombangara
Island a mighty mountain range rising to 2400m to the west, while eastwards are Chinatown
Langa Lagoon (p277) New Georgia & that separates the Weathercoast people from and Mataniko. Beyond are Kukum, Panatina
Mbabanga West New Georgia
Island
Spotting rusty WWII relics on Guadalcanal Langa Langa those on the northern coast. and Ranadi, which make up the country’s
(opposite) and west New Georgia (p265) Lagoon principal light-industrial zone.
Visiting a skull shrine on Vonavona HONIARA
Lagoon (p265)
Vonavona
Lagoon
Mataniko Falls &
Tenaru Falls
Tension, riots? What tension, what riots? Information
Weathercoast The capital of the Solomon Islands was at BOOKSHOPS
Listening to the cacophony of seabirds on
Marovo Guadalcanal the epicentre of civil unrest and ethnic ten- Nautilus (%26105; NPF Plaza, Mendana Ave; h8am-
the mysterious, World Heritagelisted Lake Lagoon
sion from 1999 to 2003. But how things have 5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) This German-run gift shop
Te’Nggano (p279) Lake
Te‘Nggano changed since the arrival of the Regional stocks a few books on the Solomons.
Assistance Mission to the Solomon Islands
POPULATION: 524,000 AREA: 27,540 SQ KM (SEA AREA: 1.35 MILLION (RAMSI) personnel in 2003, who helped EMERGENCY
SQ KM) quell internal violence, despite a short- Police (%999)
248 S O L O M O N I S L A N D S lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 249
To Anuta I; Fatutaka I;
Tikopia I (See inset)
120 miles
ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ
200 km
There are various internet cafés in the NPF h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri) Changes all major currencies
DUFF IS
Vanikoro I
Plaza building. Rates average from S$15 to and travellers cheques.
Fatutaka I
Anuta I
S$17 per hour. You can expect fairly speedy Solomon Post (%21821; Mendana Ave; h8am-
Utupua I
connections, and you can burn CDs and 4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) If there’s nobody at the
OCEAN
Same scale as main map
print documents. Most hotels also offer counter downstairs, go upstairs. Rates are lower, but there
REEF IS
internet access for their guests, and some are no queues.
places have wi-fi. The following outlets are
ὄ
Westpac (%21222; Mendana Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-
Tikopia I
SANTA CRUZ
open on Saturday. Fri) Changes all major currencies except euros in cash, as
PACIFIC
Solosoft (NPF Plaza, Mendana Ave; h8am-7pm Mon- well as travellers cheques (euro-denominated ones are
inset
IS
Fri, to 3pm Sat) Upstairs.
Tinakula I
Santa Cruz I
accepted).
Nupani I
0
0
MEDICAL SERVICES to noon Sat) Main post office. Sells envelopes and post-
PROVINCE
TEMOTU
In-The-Zone Medical Clinic (%23485; Hibiscus Ave; cards, and has a philatelic bureau. Also houses a Western
h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) This private clinic, just beside Union counter.
the King Solomon Hotel, has been recommended to us by
expats. After hours, call h25063. TELEPHONE
Point Cruz Chemist (%22911; Mendana Ave; h8am- Many hotels have phones that their guests can
5pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat) A well-stocked pharmacy. use to make international phone calls.
Santa Catalina I
Santa Ana I
Telekom House (%21576; Mendana Ave; h8.30am-
THREE SISTERS
4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Sells phonecards and
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
MONEY
Sikaiana
A sign that Honiara has embraced mod- prepaid SIM cards. Also offers internet connection.
Atoll
Ulawa I
hour ATMs in the centre, and they were all TOURIST INFORMATION
Makira I
ὄὄ PROVINCE
MAKIRA
working when we visited. ANZ and Westpac
have one each; you’ll find two more booths
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (SIVB; %22442;
www.visitsolomons.com.sb; Mendana Ave; h8am-
Map (p275)
See Malaita
Province
(also owned by ANZ and Westpac) out- 4.30pm Mon-Fri) There is little printed material, but staff
t
ai
tr
side the post office. They accept Visa and can provide advice and contact isolated lodges and villages
S
Malaita I
l
e
ns
ab MasterCard. ANZ and Westpac can also do (by two-way radio) to make bookings. Ask for Chris or
Auki
See Guadalcanal
Map (pp250–1)
s
MALAITA
Te'Nggano
di
In
ὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄὄ
ὄ
Lake
Rennell
ANZ (%21111; Mendana Ave; h9am-4pm) Changes Guadalcanal Travel Services (GTS; %22586;
HONIARA
IS
GUADALCANAL
PROVINCE
BELLONA
PROVINCE
Bellona I
Reefs
rates, but notoriously long queues as well. 4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Well-established travel
IS
)
ot
ὄὄ
See Central Province
Sl
Map (p261)
(T
Marovo
Lagoon
For years the Gwale people of Guadalcanal resented the fact that their traditional land was being
d
SEA
So
Early in 1999 the Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army (GRA) began to terrorise Malaitan migrants,
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Georgia I
Tetepare I
which led to thousands fleeing back home. The Malaitan Eagle Force (MEF) was formed and soon
a
New
gi
Kolombangara
Following mediation by Australia and New Zealand, the Townsville Peace Agreement was
Ge
Rendova I
SHORTLAND Choiseul I
signed in October 2000. Conflict has ceased, thanks greatly to the Regional Assistance Mission
Lola
New
to the Solomon Islands (RAMSI) presence throughout the whole country, implemented in July
Gizo
Ghizo I
PAPUA NEW
2003. The RAMSI force includes personnel from Australia, New Zealand and Fiji, and is mainly a
GUINEA
Ranongga I
Security was quickly re-established and RAMSI remains in an ongoing role while the country
PROVINCE
WESTERN
Treasury I
Bougainville
IS
rebuilds. The presence of RAMSI means that the Solomons are safe once more, but it doesn’t
look like the personnel will be leaving any time soon.
ὄ
ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ
250 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 251
0 40 km
GUADALCANAL 0 20 miles
ὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄὄὄὄ ὄὄ
ὄ ὄ
Visale To Savo Island To To Savo & To Malaita
Western Tulagi Poposa Pari
Island Komukomutou
Province Island 0 4 km
Vila 0 2 miles
Veuru Cape Espérance Arona Island
Tambea Pupuraka Hill
Paru (200m) Nughu Island
Marovovo Mt Vuvunga Aruligo
(593m) Iron Bottom Sound Round Island
Vilu
Sealark Channel SOLOMON SEA Maruipa Island
Ndoma
Mt Gallego Savekau
i
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Verahue (1070m) an Ruaniu (Bonegi III)
as er Tasivarongo Pt
Panatina
Lengo Channel Marau
Um Riv Hell's Tetere
Sound Marapa Island
Bonegi I & II Ranadi Point Beach New Marere
Mt Tonjili US Sherman Tank White
Mamara River Tetere
Lambi Bay
Bay
ee gi
Mamara Beach Red Wahere
Cr one
Lambi
k
Poha Airport Beach Island
ha Amtracks
B
Kombiloko HONIARA
Cone Peak Po iver Makina Tawaihi
R Japanese Kukum Ruavatu Tavanipupu Island
River
(800m)
R
Valeatu Island
Memorial Tenaru
pono
ava Lelei Betikama Tetere Mbinu Manikaraku Paipai Island
Hoil er Mt Gifu
Bloody
Tiua
Riv Ta n d a c h e h e R i d g e Ridge Kosa Island
Mate
Mataniko Komuniboli Komuninggita Komunimbaimbai Conflict
e
Vungatambu
ὄὄὄὄ ὄὄὄὄ
Tiaro
Mberand
Falls
Mt Austen Ando Rua Sura Bay
Ghove Falls Lungga Plateau Island Marau Airfield Rauhi Island
(410m)
Rivere
Mataruka
Ghov
er
Solomons Peace
Riv
r
Memorial
Rive
West Cape
ambusu
Suva Pt Guadalcanal Park Tenaru R Nudha Island
u
Waterfall bi
bo
Aola
er are
suna
River
lim Tambusu Pt
kokim
a
Riv ngar
Nggur
Ghoverighi Harbour Ng Old Case
Mbali
Rere Pt
Ta
r
River
r
Mbo
ve
e
Tinomeat Rere
Riv
Ri
Tangarere Mt Vatunjae
Gha Talambirua
re
usav Taluto'o Island
a
Gold Parina
Re
ito
Aol
a Riv v R
Beaufort Bay Ridge ri R ulo
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
mb
er
Nggoinggoi Malukuna Cha Kolochulu
Mb aR
Ko
Mt Mbutahaina o
Cape Beaufort Mt Ngalikama Nuhu Mbumbumaraho nga er
Mbumbunuhu va
Sorovisi Tughuruloki Mt Tambunanggu Ta Riv
iu
Sim
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Vihona Mt Tatuve Vatupochau Totonga
r Falls (1400m) Falls
ve Mt Vatupochau
er
Ri Chari Mbo'o
iv
(2330m)
Gho
R
Itin
Mbambanakira
ilia
aR
Airfield Mt Makarakomburu Poposa See Enlargement
gg
Kaok
(2447m)
Sin
Mbambanakira
er
Guadalcanal
Riv
Maruipa
Koloula
ve e
at
Ri alis
Komate Chocho
gh Island
r
Savekau
River
ro
va er
T
Savuna vu Marapa
Ai Riv
No
er
Koloula Makina
ta
lu Riv
Pt Avu Avu gia Manikaraku
ng er
Ta Riv Komunimbaimbai
r
Oa Rive
Alua
Haimarao Valahima
Bubuvua Falls
agency. Can arrange tours and bookings for major resorts Sights the atmosphere – there’s always a busy scene NATIONAL MUSEUM & CULTURAL CENTRE
in the Solomons. Ask for the knowledgeable Garedd. Honiara’s attractions are mainly strung along here as copra boats and interisland passenger The modest museum (%24896; Mendana Ave; ad-
the main drag. The main exceptions are White vessels load and unload. mission by donation; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat)
VISA EXTENSIONS River Village (take a ‘White River’ minibus, has only one room featuring displays and
Immigration Division (%25081; Mendana Ave; S$3) and Skyline Drive (take a cab). NATIONAL PARLIAMENT old photographs on traditional dance, body
h9.30-11.30am & 1.30-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Located in See the conical-shaped concrete building ornamentation, currency, weaponry and ar-
the Department of Commerce, Industries & Employment POINT CRUZ perched on the hill above Hibiscus Ave? It’s chaeology. Behind the main building there
building. Visitor permits (S$50) can be extended for three On 12 May 1568 Mendaña and his men the National Parliament (%28520; Lower Vayvaya are eight traditionally constructed houses,
months. Takes 24 hours. erected a cross at a spot traditionally called Rd; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri). Watching proceedings each from a different province, as well as a
Kua by islanders, renaming it Point Cruz. from the public gallery (take the eastern few boldly carved wooden statues.
Dangers & Annoyances Then they said their prayers and claimed their entrance) can be fun if you happen to be
Relax! You’re not in Port Moresby. The discoveries in the Solomons for Spain. in town at the right time (one-week ses- WHITE RIVER VILLAGE
RAMSI personnel quickly re-established law Since the 1950s this small peninsula has sions are usually held every other month). Betel nut, anyone? This friendly Gilbertese
and order in the capital. It’s now safe to stroll been greatly extended with wharves and copra Inside, the dome boasts a rich tapestry of settlement about 4km west of the centre
around the centre by day, provided you use sheds. Boat services depart from Point Cruz to traditional art, including arching frescoes. is mostly famed for its betel nut market.
your common sense and avoid walking alone the remotest destinations in the archipelago. Opened in 1993, the building was funded Wooden stalls selling the much sought-
in deserted streets. At night, take a taxi. It’s worth spending an hour or two soaking up by the USA. after commodity are lined cheek-by-jowl
ὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄ
ὄὄ
252 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 253
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ ὄὄ
A B C D E F in the near future.
Pt Cruz
Iron Bottom Sound Main
Wharf Activities
1 18 33
44
1
If you’re a diver, be sure spend a few days in
To Coastwatchers (300m);
Raintree Café (2km); 48 3 1 47 the capital – Honiara has probably the best
White River Village (2km);
Bonegi I & II (11km) Mbokona
13
43
36 diving of any capital city in the world, on a
ὄὄὄ
Ashley St
Mendana 4 46
10
Men
Reef Bay
17 Me par with Port Moresby. It has a fantastic col-
nd
dana
Av
e
7
41
an
a
Av
lection of WWII wrecks lying offshore in an
Police e
Headquarters 40
Hibiscus Ave 35 area known as Iron Bottom Sound. Contact
38 37
the following outfits:
Rov
9 30 34
e Cr
0 200 m
Rove Kukutu
St
15 0 0.1 miles Coastwatchers (%21255, 73672; coastwatchers@
eek
St
11
fastmail.fm) About 1km west of the centre, on the road to
i
Tsiliv
14 16
Mud Al
INFORMATION 21 NPF Me
2 ANZ..........................................1 E1 Lenggakiki Hibiscus Ave 8 2
Plaza nd
an
a
2 White River. One-day dive package is US$140. Also offers
12 Av
Australian High Commission.... 2 C2 Rd e snorkelling trips.
Bank South Pacific....................3 E1 27
British High Commission......(see 16)
6 Kua Bay Invader Charters (%23085; www.invadercharters
ee a
See Enlargement t
Cr okom
kS
ve
French Consulate......................4 E1 uc .com.au; Honiara Hotel; 1-/2-shore dives S$500/700,
k
Lenggakiki
us A
Cl
b
German Consulate.................(see 4)
equipment hire S$300) Also has trips to Florida Islands
M
25
i sc
Guadalcanal Travel Services b 22
Hi To Pacific Casino Hotel (2km);
(GTS)....................................5 E1 31
28 19
39
Club 106 (2km); aboard a 30m vessel (A$450 for a weekend package to
In-The-Zone Medical Clinic......6 C2 National Parliament...............22 D2 Panatina (3.5km);
Japanese Embassy.....................7 F1 Solomons Sport Fishing........(see 38)
42 Ritaleven Inn (3.5); Maravagi Resort, p262) and snorkelling trips.
Bula Bar (9km);
Map Sales Division of Agriculture Spirit of Solomons................(see 18)
Ave
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Kukum
3 Immigration Department......9 C2
Nature Conservancy...............10 A1
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge.......23
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge 2...24
F4
D3
Nings Bakery..........................37 F2
Nings Coffee Shop...............(see 37) Mataniko
Hwy 3 Tackle bigeye tuna, Spanish mackerel, king-
Rd
Nautilus.................................11 C2 Chester Resthouse.................25 D2 Point Cruz Yacht Club............38 C2 Mbo kon av
era Bridge fish, wahoo and sailfish with Solomons Sport
ver
Ri
PNG High Commission..........12 C2 Honiara Hotel.........................26 F4 Sea King.................................39 F3
Point Cruz Chemist.................13 E1 King Solomon Hotel...............27 C2 Shogun - Casablanca..............40 B2
Fishing (% 95105, 24498; mikehammond@solomon
o
Rd
Post Office (Solomon Post)....14 C2 Quality Inn.............................28 E3 nik .com.sb; full-day S$3500), based at the Point Cruz
ata
ah
24 Chinatown
Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau Solomon City Motel...............29 E3 DRINKING
W
M
(SIVB)................................15 C2 Solomon Kitano Mendana King Solomon Hotel............(see 27)
32 Old Mataniko
Bridge un
g Yacht Club.
Mbokonavera Dr Ch 45
Solosoft...............................(see 11) Hotel.................................30 C2 Lime Lounge.......................(see 36) line
Telekom House...................... 16 C2 United Church Resthouse......31 D3 Point Cruz Yacht Club.........(see 38) Sky
TM Internet Cafe.................(see 11) Zome Accommodation.......... 32 D3
To Mataniko
23
26
Tours
USA Consular Agent............(see 44) ENTERTAINMENT Falls Trailhead (2km) The following outfits can arrange half-/
Westpac.................................17 F1 EATING Club Paradise..........................41 F1
Capitana Restaurant............(see 30) Flamingo..............................(see 26) TRANSPORT full-day tours around Honiara, taking in
To US War
4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Bilikiki.....................................18 E1
Club Havanah......................(see 26)
Garden Seafood......................33 E1
King Solomon Hotel............(see 27)
Point Cruz Yacht Club.........(see 38)
Memorial Avis........................................45 F4 4 the WWII battlefields, waterfalls and other
(250m) Guadalcanal Travel Services
Central Market.......................19 E3 Hong Kong Palace..................34 F2 (GTS)..................................46 E1 sights. They can also organise trips to Savo
Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral..20 E3
Invader Charters..................(see 26)
Honiara Hotel......................(see 26)
Hot Bread Kitchen...................35 F1
SHOPPING
DJ Graphics............................42 E3
MV Pelican Express.................47 F1
MV Solomon Express...........(see 47)
and Tulagi. Prices vary according to the
National Museum & Cultural Le Rendez Vous Restaurant..(see 27) King Solomon's Handicraft......43 E1 Solomon Airlines.....................48 E1 party size.
Centre............................... 21 C2 Lime Lounge...........................36 F1 Melanesian Handicrafts...........44 F1 Zome...................................(see 32)
Destination Solomons Travel & Tours (%23444;
[email protected]) Run by Wilson Maelaua.
along the main road. Past the market, CENTRAL MARKET CHURCHES & RELIGIOUS SERVICES Guadalcanal Foundation Tours (%38338) Run by
there’s the Raintree Café (p255). Ah, the While there’s no chance of Honiara being On Sunday, masses of well-dressed Honiarans knowledgeable John Innes. Focuses on WWII battlefields.
Raintree Café… mistaken for Dakar, the busy, bubbling Central attend morning church services. Most Tourism Solomons (%27772, 21150; toursol@solo
Market (Mendana Ave; hdawn-dusk Mon-Sat) assails churches have several services on this day, mon.com.sb) Ask for Ross Hepworth.
SKYLINE DRIVE your senses. It’s the country’s principal food usually lasting an hour and conducted in
You can still follow this wartime jeep track market and covers a whole block between English, so you have no excuse not to repent Sleeping
for the 5km between Honiara and Valeatu. Mendana Ave and the seafront. It has a huge your sins. Visitors are welcome to attend, BUDGET
As it leaves Honiara, Skyline Dr overlooks selection of fresh produce, especially fruits but make sure you dress modestly. The most All places listed have communal kitchens,
the Mataniko River, providing a breathtak- and vegetables, that come from outlying vil- prominent religious building is the Holy Cross fan-cooled twin rooms and shared facilities
ing view of village life below it. Enjoy it from lages along the northern coast and from Savo Catholic Cathedral, perched on a hill to the east unless stated otherwise.
the US War Memorial, a compound of marble island. of the centre. United Church Resthouse (%20028, 20144; Lower
slabs bearing detailed descriptions of bat- Also on sale are traditional crafts such as Vayvaya Rd; per person S$90, r S$200-250) A thong’s
tles fought during the Guadalcanal cam- Malaitan shell money, souvenir shells and CHINATOWN throw from the Chester Resthouse, this tee-
paign. It was unveiled on 7 August 1992, jewellery. The fish market is at the back – just What’s left of once-thriving Chinatown? total place features a handful of rooms that
the 50th anniversary of the US beach land- follow your nose. Sadly, after the riots that broke out in April are in sore need of TLC; otherwise the place
ings. It’s a steep 30-minute walk up from There’s no bargaining, and there’s no has- 2006, not much (see p13). Chinatown’s main is in reasonable condition. Some rooms have
Mendana Ave. sling to buy anything. Utter bliss. street, Chung Wah Rd, was flanked with saggy mattresses; others have three beds and
254 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 255
feel cramped. The best assets are the central steep road. The rooms, some of which come vast lobby of this longstanding favourite, full of flavour. Burgers go down well with the
location and ample views from the communal with private facilities, are compact and lack- which ticks all the right boxes: professional brews here, but you can also treat your taste-
areas. It’s manageable for a day or two. ing in charm but perfectly serviceable. A new staff; a stellar location; a good restaurant; a buds to kingfish steak, sirloin steak or beef
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge (%28819; Chinatown; wing was being built at the time of research congenial bar; and a variety of comfortable, curry. And the seafront lies just beyond the
per person S$100) Rooms here are monastically and will feature eight air-con rooms when well-equipped units scattered amid lush green glass. There are plans to refurbish the place,
plain and cleanliness is only just OK in the it’s completed. gardens that carpet a steep hill. A kinky fu- so keep your ears to the ground.
bathrooms – wear thongs (flip-flops) and pray Quality Inn (%25150; fax 25277; Lower Vayvaya Rd; nicular shunts people between the rooms and Lime Lounge (%23064; off Mendana Ave; mains S$25-
you’re not the last in line to shower. It’s worth- r S$350-680; ai) The linoleum floor should the reception area. It has an inviting pool built 70; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) This
while if you’re seriously strapped for cash. just be ripped out, the particle-board furnish- into the hill. accomplished modern place that seems to
Some rooms are windowless, so check out ings need to be replaced and the bordello-red Solomon Kitano Mendana Hotel (%20071; reserv@ have been imported direct from Oz thinks
a few before settling in. The smart Honiara curtains should be dumped, but the functional mendana.com.sb; Mendana Ave; r S$850-1100; ais) If it is the snazziest spot in town. One thing is
Hotel is just across the street, so you can make amenities, quiet setting and key location keep you want to launch yourself into the heart of sure: it’s the meeting point for expats who are
use of its restaurant and pool. It’s a 10-minute it on the radar screen. Digs are commodious the action, this is your answer. Like most hotels yearning for a satisfying breakfast (muesli!) or
walk to the market. and cleanish, and come with a balcony over- in Honiara, this one has some bright rooms a light meal. There’s everything from palate-
Bulaia Backpackers Lodge 2 (%23059; off Skyline Dr; looking the harbour. and some darker ones, so definitely ask to pleasing salads to well-made sandwiches
per person S$100) This is almost a carbon copy of Honiara Hotel (%21737; reservation@honiarahotel see a few before plonking down your money. and devilish banana cakes – and perhaps the
the original Bulaia: same management, same .com.sb; Chinatown; r S$390-816; ais) This hotel A new wing was being built when we passed illusion of being back home. The walls are
nondescript building and samey rooms (albeit scores high on amenities, with a restaurant, a through. With any luck, it will be finished by adorned with paintings by local artists, which
more recent and a bit brighter). Good value if bar, a disco and, joy of joys, an Olympic-sized the time you read this. Flake out in the lounge, gives the place a splash of style.
you can handle a strenuous 20-minute steep pool complete with sunlounges. Deluxe rooms make use of the well-stocked bar and refresh Garden Seafood (%22298; Mendana Ave; mains S$35-
walk from Chinatown. in the recent wing (Nos 811 to 824 and Nos yourself in the little pool at the back. 180; hlunch & dinner) Here you can fuel up with
Chester Resthouse (%26355; mbhches@solomon 831 to 834) are appealing and light-filled; they Chinese staples such as sweet-and-sour fish
.com.sb; Lower Vayvaya Rd; r S$180) May God bless come with sea views and a private terrace. The Eating fillet or prawns with nuts. The décor is a bit
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
you in this neat little number run by Henry, standard rooms feel outdated and uninspiring Nings Bakery (%28371; Hibiscus Ave; h6am-7pm Mon- bleak and the food isn’t the best (think gluggy
an assiduous Anglican brother. Location is in comparison. Fri, to 3pm Sat, to noon Sun) You can gauge the level sauce), but it’s filling, cheap and very central.
tip-top: Mendana Ave is just a few singsing Ritaleven Inn (%22902, 39192; Panatina; r without of carbohydrate addiction of an expat or local oRaintree Café (%22086; White River; mains
steps via a shortcut. There’s a comfy commu- bathrooms S$450) A pleasant surprise, this well- if they know about this bakery-cum-cafeteria. S$40-150; h7am-10pm) This suave number run
nal area with a polished wooden floor, where maintained abode feels like a peaceful B&B, Those not in-the-know obviously haven’t sur- by a group of ladies boasts one of the most
guests slump on couches in front of the TV. with only three rooms and a kitchen for guests’ rendered to the delights of the gooey pudding agreeable settings in Honiara. Picture a lovely
From the veranda, you can contemplate wide use. Top marks go to the shared bathrooms, cake (S$3). Other temptations (though much waterfront location and soul-stirring views
views of the harbour. No alcohol is allowed which are squeaky-clean, and the thick mat- more ordinary in taste) include chocolate cake of Savo. The tropical décor is easy on the eye,
on the premises, but there’s a small shop sell- tresses. It’s about 4km east of the centre, in the and buns. Go. Just don’t blame us if you can’t with wooden furnishings, thatched roof and
ing basic foodstuffs downstairs. All in all, it’s Panatina district. Minibuses and taxis pass by fit into your wetsuit the next day. candlelit tables – alfresco dining doesn’t come
great value, but it’s not perfect: rooms are tiny on the main road (a mere five-minute walk), Hot Bread Kitchen (Mendana Ave; h6am-8pm) For any better than this (it’s BYO). Choose be-
and lack intimacy (windows open right onto so getting back and forth is easy enough. the most flavoursome buns (S$3) in town, take tween copious breakfasts, a parade of bounti-
the public area and corridors). Optimal for Pacific Casino Hotel (%25009; paccashtl@solomon your sticky fingers to this unassuming outlet ful pizzas (served from 4pm), omelettes, daily
women travellers. .com.sb; Panatina; r S$600-1110; ai) Like a phoe- on the main drag. Come early; by noon it is specials chalked up on the blackboard and
Solomon City Motel (%24862; Lower Vayvaya Rd; nix, this place has risen from the ashes after sold out. Bread is also available. melt-in-your-mouth homemade cakes. And
r S$150-250) Reposed over sloping grounds with having been destroyed during the 2006 riots Nings Coffee Shop (%28371; Hibiscus Ave; mains don’t get us started on the fruit salad with
lots of tree and flower coverage, this unpreten- and had just reopened when we dropped by. S$15-40; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri) Step into this at- honey and yogurt. Vegetarians should enjoy
tious joint is very different in atmosphere from Sad to say, but the two-storey barrack-style tractive cafeteria-cum-fast-food outlet for the crunchy ‘garden salad’ served in a trad-
the alcohol-free Chester Resthouse and United block is an ugly duckling, and the long cor- an escape from the dusty streets. With its itional wooden bowl. It’s such a shame that
Church Resthouse. Wanna guzzle a few beers? ridors could set the stage for The Shining. The wrought-iron-like chairs and colourful the service is so slow. It’s in White River,
No problem, the young manager will be more only touch of fancy is in the reception area, walls, it’s almost trendy by Honiaran stand- about 3km west of the centre. Has wi-fi.
than happy to enjoy a few stubbies with you. embellished with eye-catching frescoes. On ards. Tuck into marinated pork or beef, chilli Hong Kong Palace (%23338; Hibiscus Ave; mains
The rooms are spartan and claustrophobic the plus side, rooms are spacious, well or- tuna, fried chicken or sandwiches, or keep up S$40-200; h lunch & dinner) This unmissable
(the fan occupies half the ceilings). An OK ganised and boast the requisite comforts. The your strength with a decent cappuccino. Small blood-red pagoda on Hibiscus Ave brings
place for unfussy male travellers. extensive grounds encompass two restaurants wonder it quickly fills at lunchtime (takeaway an unexpected dash of orientalism in an
and, as the name suggests, a casino. It has a available). Same location as Nings Bakery, but otherwise dull area. Inside, it’s much more
MIDRANGE & TOP END waterfront location but given the odd layout separate entrance. sterile, with neons and tiles, but you’ll be
Most places accept credit cards. most rooms have no views (despite what the Point Cruz Yacht-Club (%22500; Mendana Ave; mains too busy choosing from the mile-long menu
Zome Accommodation (%26902; fax 26903; off brochure says). It’s 2km west of the centre. S$25-50; hlunch & dinner) Never short of a happy to notice. Seafood is king of the castle here,
Skyline Dr; r S$250-300; a) This little B&B-like oasis King Solomon Hotel (%21205; Hibiscus Ave; r S$825- crowd, this Honiara institution is best known with a wide choice of crab, shrimp, lobster,
in a quiet neighbourhood is a reliable standby 1100; ais) Traditional carvings greet you for its cold Solbrew than for its affordable fare. fish and squid dishes. The soundtrack is an
despite being a bit far from the action, up a as you step in from the blazing sun into the It’s a shame, because the dishes are simple and odd cacophony that fuses the sizzling woks
256 G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • H o n i a r a 257
in the kitchen and the blaring TV in the After having two satisfying dinners here, all
dining room. we can say is: vraiment très bon (really very VOICES: DOROTHY WICKHAM, BROADCAST RADIO JOURNALIST
Capitana Restaurant (%20071; Solomon Kitano good). Just one grumble: the big fake fish and Dorothy is a former stringer for various international television networks and one of the leading
Mendana Hotel, Mendana Ave; mains S$50-180; hlunch & siren at the back are ludicrous. journalists in her field in the Solomons. Until recently the country did not have its own national
dinner) Oral pleasures (of the Japanese variety) television station until One News TV was established in June 2006. Coverage is limited to Honiara
never tasted so good at this restaurant inside Drinking but there are plans to cover other islands.
the Mendana Hotel. Ever heard of yakisakana The bar scene is not that dead in Honiara.
(grilled kingfish in ponzu sauce) or yosenabe There are a few congenial spots where you can What motivated you to launch One News TV? I found it annoying to see that the coverage of
(hotpot of seafood, chicken and vegetables)? lubricate your gullet in pleasant surrounds. my country was in the hands of foreign TV crews. This feeling culminated during the Tension,
It’s time to learn. If you’re feeling conservative, At the end of the night, take a cab to get back when I worked as a fixer for foreign TV crews. There was no local angle to what was said about
stick to the sashimi or classic Western dishes. to your hotel. the Solomons. With the help of Solomons Telekom, I built a small team and launched One News
Another strong point is the wine list, with Point Cruz Yacht-Club (Mendana Ave; h11am- TV during the Soccer World Cup, to ensure maximum audience.
a wide selection of Australian tipples (from midnight) Hands down, this is the coolest spot
S$80). Two minuses: the faded tablecloths and in town to sink a Solbrew and the best place to How have the locals responded to the broadcasts? We broadcast two hours per day, and
the elevator soundtrack – nothing’s perfect. hear the local goss. It’s the gathering place for people wait for our broadcasts now, which is a no mean feat given that radio has always been
Sea King (%23678; off Mendana Ave; mains S$60- yachties, expats, aid workers and local punt- the predominant source of information in this country.
200; hlunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Ignore the chubby ers. The whole place is to be fully redesigned
golden Buddha at the entrance; the stadium- and it should be completed by the time you What about media independence? Well, it’s pretty good here, we have freedom and we do
sized dining room is less clichéd. This place read this. Wi-fi. criticise the government. Our editorial integrity is guaranteed. The biggest difficulty was to get
has garnered high praise for its Chinese dishes Lime Lounge (off Mendana Ave; h7am-5pm Mon-Fri, politicians willing to talk in front of a camera; it was so unusual for them at that time. But now
that emphasise seafood. 8am-3pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun; a) A godsend when it’s they understand the impact of this medium, and they consider One News as a tool to educate
Le Rendez Vous Restaurant (%21205; King Solomon sweltering hot, thanks to industrial-strength and inform people.
Hotel, Hibiscus Ave; mains S$75-180; hlunch & dinner) This air-con. It’s the premier place to indulge in
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
is not the most romantic spot for a rendez- chilled liquid treats such as bush lime, juices
vous, but it has a reputation for fine food and smoothies. Good coffee, too. Wi-fi. patrons. The very raucous Club Paradise (Mendana begin and end in Honiara. See p306 for de-
and an airy setting with funky wooden tables Raintree Café (White River; h7am-10pm) Enjoying Ave), right in the centre, is best avoided. tails of international flights. Guadalcanal
and chairs under a thatched roof. The menu a sunset beverage in this wonderfully mellow King Solomon Hotel has a karaoke night on Travel Services (p249) is an agent for Solomon
covers enough territory to please most palates, place in White River is escapism at its best. Friday and a twice-weekly traditional dance Airlines, Our Airline, Air Niugini and Air
with such classics as chilli garlic prawns, beef Spiffing setting, right by the seashore. Luscious show. Honiara Hotel puts a dance show on Pacific. Solomon Airlines (%20031; www.solomonair
eye fillet, burgers and fish of the day. Good smoothies and vitamin-packed juices, as well Friday night. Live bands play at Point Cruz lines.com.au; Mendana Ave; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30-
fruit platter too. as award-winning coffee. Wi-fi. Yacht Club (opposite) on Friday. 11.30am Sat) main office is in the centre of town.
Shogun – Casablanca (%28632; Mendana Ave; mains Hotel bars are open to non-guests and are
S$90-180; hdinner) One venue, two restaurants; a good place to hook up with expats. The in- Shopping BOAT
it’s perfect if you’re undecided. The Alps meet house, pub-like bar at King Solomon Hotel Honiara is a good place to pick up souvenirs. Most shipping companies have offices near
the Pacific at the Casablanca. There’s a good was the most lively when we researched. Also Why not bring back a nicely carved nguzu Honiara’s main wharf. Getting around by
range of pasta dishes and hit-and-miss pizzas. try the bar at Mendana Hotel. nguzu (no, it’s not a penis gourd) for jealous freighter is a slow process.
Steaks, fish and lobster plump up the menu. friends at home? There are a few prominent The most reliable service is offered by the
Too bland for you? The refined interior of the Entertainment stores with better-than-average crafts on or two passengers boats MV Pelican Express (%28104;
Shogun puts you in the right mood for well- There are a few hotspots that deliver earbusting around the main drag, including Melanesian Komi Fera Bldg, Point Cruz; h8am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri,
prepared Japanese dishes. There’s a breezy tunes and hot-and-sweaty dancing. They are Handicraft (%22189; www.melanesianhandicraft.com.sb; to noon Sat) and MV Solomon Express (%28064; Komi
terrace for alfresco dining. rather naff by Western standards but after a few Point Cruz) and King Solomon’s Handicraft (Mendana Fera Bldg, Point Cruz; h8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri). Both
oClub Havanah (%21737; Honiara Hotel, weeks spent in other provinces, you’ll find them Ave). The NPF Plaza shopping mall hosts a few run once a week between Honiara and Malaita
Chinatown; mains S$110-180; hdinner) Expats and the almost happening. Friday and Saturday are the good stores. It’s also worth considering the (Auki, S$160), and between Honiara and
local glitterati saunter here for upper-crust fare liveliest nights but sometimes it can be pretty gift shops at the Solomon Kitano Mendana Western Province (Mbunikalo, S$240; Seghe,
with a strong French accent thanks to Georges, quiet for no apparent reason. Music-wise, ex- Hotel (p255) and King Solomon Hotel, as well S$300; Noro, S$340; Gizo, S$380). Tickets can
the French chef, who can be seen through the pect an eclectic mix of island and Western hits. as the shop at the National Museum (p251). be bought on board.
glass, working his magic in the kitchen. The Entrance fees are S$10 to S$20. For shell jewellery, head to the central mar-
pages of its menu are a gateway to wonder. The best places to showcase your à la John ket (p251). For T-shirts, postcards, CDs of Getting Around
Whet your palate with cracking petits gris far- Travolta (or Olivia Newton-John) dance style local music and other souvenirs, DJ Graphics TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
cis au coeur d’ail (snails with garlic), wolf down include Flamingo (Honiara Hotel, Chinatown, p254); Bula (%22011; Mendana Ave) is the best bet. The taxi fare from the airport into town is
a lip-smacking médaillons de boeuf aux trois Bar (Airport Motel, Henderson), close to the airport; S$50. It’s an 11km ride.
sauces (beef medallions with three sauces) and Club 106 (Pacific Casino Hotel, Panatina, p254); and the Getting There & Away
finish off your meal with, say, nougat glacé au more recent dance hall at the King Solomon AIR CAR
miel et amandes (frozen dessert with candied Hotel. They are safe for women travellers – International flights land at Honiara’s The following companies rent cars (from
fruit, almonds, honey and whipped cream). there’s security – but steer clear of inebriated Henderson Airport, and all domestic routes S$550 per day):
258 G UA D A LC A N A L • • A r o u n d H o n i a r a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G UA D A LC A N A L • • A r o u n d H o n i a r a 259
Avis (%24180; [email protected]; Chinatown) followed by an easier stretch amid mildly school children who’ve come to Betikama TENARU
Zome (%26902; fax 26903; off Skyline Dr) undulating hills from where you can enjoy (Map pp2501M03D) from SDA villages in the New About 4.5km past the airport, a road heads
smashing views of Henderson and the Georgia Islands. inland and follows the west bank of the Tenaru
MINIBUS Guadalcanal Plains. Then you’ll tackle the Just outside the craft shop there’s a small River. After 1.5km there’s Marine Hospital No
Honiara’s minibuses are cheap, frequent (in final section: a gruelling descent on a slippery, WWII museum with an outdoor collection of sal- 8, the first wartime hospital in Guadalcanal.
daylight hours) and safe. The flat fare around muddy path to reach the floor of the little vaged material (mostly US aircraft), two small It’s in the grounds of St Joseph’s School, in
town is S$3. canyon where the Mataniko flows. You can Japanese anti-tank guns and a well-preserved Tenaru Village (off Map pp2523M0342). Many of
float all the way back to Lelei if there’s enough British Bren gun carrier. Inside, at the rear of the old WWII buildings and the concrete
TAXI water. It can be a lot of fun. It’s roughly a two- the shop, is a collection of WWII photographs base remain.
There are taxis everywhere in Honiara. They hour return trip to do this walk, and a guide and memorabilia. The Tenaru Falls make for an ideal plan
don’t have meters but charge per kilometre is required. Your best bet is to go through a B if you don’t feel fit enough to tackle the
(S$5). tour operator (see p253) in Honiara. Good WWII SITES Mataniko Falls. It’s a fairly easy four-hour
shoes are essential. Outside the Henderson Airport entrance, it’s walk (return) from a tiny settlement about
AROUND HONIARA worth having a look at the small Memorial 2km south of Tenaru Village. It’s flat and
Traversing peaceful settlements where time MT AUSTEN ROAD Gardens that honour US forces and their shady all the way. The path follows the floor
moves at a crawl, you wouldn’t think the area The road to Mt Austen begins in Kukum and Pacific Islander allies. In front is a Japanese of the river valley and cuts across the river’s
outside Honiara was the centre stage of battles climbs up to the historical sites where Japanese anti-aircraft gun. About 100m to the west many bends, crossing and recrossing a dozen
between rival factions during the Tension. troops doggedly resisted the US advance. of the buildings is the scaffolding-style times before reaching the falls. The water’s
Fear not, it’s now perfectly safe. The Solomons Peace Memorial Park, about WWII control tower, disused since the usually not more than calf-high. The truth
There are excellent places within a day’s 3.5km from the main coastal road, has a large, early 1950s. is, at 63m, these waterfalls are much, much
travelling of Honiara. Even if visiting bat- white memorial. It was built by Japanese war A track running either side of the airport higher and more spectacular than the dimin-
tlefields doesn’t usually float your boat, you veterans in 1981 to commemorate all who leads south to an area called Bloody Ridge (Map utive Mataniko Falls. They thunder down
can’t help but be moved by the poignant sites died in the WWII Guadalcanal campaign. pp2501M03E), or Edson’s Ridge, after Edson’s into a deep natural pool where you can take
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
around Honiara that played a crucial role dur- Enjoy the sweeping views over Honiara and Raiders. Commanded by Colonel Merritt a refreshing dip – an instant elixir after all
ing the Pacific war. towards Savo and the Nggelas. Edson, they defended the ridge against the that exertion.
Exploring the north coast by public trans- Continuing south for about 3km, the Japanese in 1942 in their determined but A guide is required. Your best bet is to go
port is feasible but it’s not really convenient. thick bush opens to reveal an elevated clear- unsuccessful attempts to seize the airfield. through a tour operator (p253) in Honiara.
Most sights are not signed and are not easy ing about 200m west of the road (it’s now There’s a little US war memorial on the ridge.
to find without a knowledgeable guide. We partly occupied by a school). This is the site About 1km beyond Bloody Ridge, you’ll come West of Honiara
suggest taking an organised tour with one of the Gifu, named after a Japanese district by across a Japanese war memorial that honours Life becomes very sedate as one heads west
of the reputable tour operators in Honiara its wartime Japanese defenders. Very fiercely the 2000 or more Japanese killed during these through some of the north coast’s delicious
(see p253). defended, it was the Japanese forward com- actions. There’s a S$20 kastom fee. scenery. Urban life is left behind once the road
mand post, important in their efforts to cap- Back to the coast, you’ll find a marble mon- traverses White River and crawls its way along
East of Honiara ture Henderson. It finally fell to the USA in ument surrounded by long grass at Hell’s Point the scenic coastline to Lambi Bay.
This side of Honiara is more built-up than the mid-January 1943 after its starving defenders (Map pp2501M03F), about 50m east of Alligator’s At the time of writing, the tarred section
western side, with much development along were wiped out making a final banzai attack. Creek. This is a poignant site for Japanese ended shortly after Ndoma, but the road
the coastal road. Once you get inland to the You’ll find a more detailed description of the visitors. The Japanese Colonel Kiyono Ichiki should be surfaced up to Visale by the time
central foothills, you’ll get a back-to-nature battle on a plaque at the turn-off. and his 800 men ‘died with courage’ here on you read this guide.
feel. Most of the WWII battlefields are in the About 2km south of the Gifu is the summit 20 August 1942 after a banzai attack from the The area boasts a high historical signifi-
vicinity of Henderson Airport. of Mt Austen (410m). A dirt track leads to a eastern side of the creek against US machine cance. The seas between Guadalcanal’s north-
The road is surfaced as far as the Mberande former Japanese Observation Point. Americans in guns and artillery mounted on its western western coast and Savo island were the site of
River, and gravel from the Mberande River to WWII dubbed this spot Grassy Knoll. There’s bank. There’s also a deserted black-sand beach constant naval battles between August 1942
Aola (Map pp250–1), the prewar capital of a plaque that explains the strategic importance where you can lay your towel. It’s about 2km and February 1943. By the time the Japanese
Guadalcanal, 76km east of Honiara. The road of Mt Austen during WWII. west of the airport. finally withdrew, so many ships had been
ends here and this is as far as motor vehicles On this long sandy Red Beach (Map sunk it became known as Iron Bottom Sound
can travel. Only footpaths and logging tracks BETIKAMA pp2501M034), a lonely, very rusted Japanese gun, (Map pp2501M034).
continue beyond. About 6.5km from Honiara and 200m before placed here by US veterans, points forlornly It’s worth stopping in Poha to take a
The following sights are listed in a geo- Lungga Bridge, you’ll reach the turn-off for out to sea. This is the only reminder of the US peek at a Japanese memorial, with three mar-
graphical order, from west to east except for the Betikama Seventh-Day Adventist Mission landings here in 1942. ble slabs. There’s also a rusty tank behind
the grouped WWII sights. (SDA), 1.6km to the south. The sprawling A few metres before reaching the shore of the memorial.
property comprises a large handicraft shop, Tetere Beach (Map pp2501M0341), a dirt track to the Popular with locals and expats at weekends,
MATANIKO FALLS Betikama Carvings Shop (% 30223; h 8am- west leads to 30 or more abandoned amtracks. Mamara Beach has black sand and is OK for
If you need to cool off, these little cascades noon & 1-5pm Sun-Fri), specialising in Western Many of these rusty relics are shielded by swimming and bathing.
beckon. The hike starts in Lelei village with Province products and stylish modern cop- prickly thorns, which adds to the poignancy About 12km from Honiara, Bonegi (Map
a steep ascent to a ridge (without shade), perware. Much of the carving is done by of the site. There’s a S$25 kastom fee. pp2501M0345) is music to the ears of divers. Two
260 G UA D A LC A N A L • • E a s t e r n G u a d a l c a n a l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com C E N T R A L P R O V I N C E • • N g g e l a I s l a n d s 261
large Japanese freighters sank just offshore on and a soaring, velvet-green hill. Soak up the Getting There & Away Another option is to fly to Marau Sound
the night of 13 November 1942 and make for a rural atmosphere and visit the large Roman Solomon Airlines has a twice-weekly flight (see opposite) and start your trip from
magnificent playground for scuba divers, who Catholic mission. to Marau (S$910 return). This very scenic there. Solomon Airlines also has a weekly
call them Bonegi I and Bonegi II. As the upper flight takes you over the rugged mountain- flight to Avu Avu, but don’t count on it for
works of Bonegi II break the surface, it can be VEURU ous interior. it’s frequently cancelled. It’s also possible
snorkelled. For more information on diving About 42km from Honiara, the Japanese I- It’s a 20-minute boat ride from the airfield to do cross-island treks starting from the
these sites, see p253 and p60. There’s also a class submarine I-23 is 350m from the shore to Tavanipupu island, and a 10-minute boat northern coast.
black-sand beach that is suitable for a picnic on a nearby reef. It’s a renowned dive site ride to Tawaihi island. The best source of information on hiking
or a snooze under the swaying palms. There’s (see p60). in the Weathercoast is Treks and Adventures
a kastom fee of S$25 per person. THE WEATHERCOAST in The Solomon Islands (March 2007), a 67-
Just past the Bonegi II site, at Tasivarongo EASTERN GUADALCANAL And now Guadalcanal’s forgotten corner. A page guide written by a group of Australian
Point, there’s a bush track that heads inland Eastern Guadalcanal’s trophy piece is Marau void on the travel radar, it tugs at the adven- expats. They provide very detailed descrip-
and runs about 400m to a well-preserved US Sound (Map pp2501M0347). This lagoon at the east- turer within. Travelling here is like a treas- tions of the treks as well as invaluable tips
Sherman tank called Jezebel which was used for ern tip of the island features a bewitching ure hunt: the jewels have to be earned. The and contacts. It can be downloaded from the
wartime target practice once the Guadalcanal blend of islands, fringing reefs, shoals and southern shore’s poor weather conditions SIVB website (www.visitsolomons.com.sb).
campaign was over. coral gardens. have discouraged human settlement, and
At Ruaniu (also known as Bonegi III), about The only settlement of consequence is there’s only a sprinkling of sparsely populated
4.5km west from Bonegi II, there’s a 6500-
tonne Japanese transport ship, believed to
Manikaraku, with a few government offices,
stores and a clinic. The region’s star attrac-
villages along the coast, including Tangarere,
Mbanbanakira (equipped with an airstrip),
CENTRAL PROVINCE
be the Kyushu Maru, that just lies offshore – tion is the mellifluous-sounding Tavanipupu Komate, Kuma and Avu Avu. Lucky Honiarans. They don’t have to ven-
another superb playground for divers. island. Fast-flowing creeks tumble down the steep ture very far before the outside world starts
sides of tall, jagged mountains, some in a to feel a long, long way away. A two-hour
VILU OPEN-AIR MUSEUM Sleeping & Eating continuous chain of small cascades. Ridges boat ride transports them (and you) to yet
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
About 25km from Honiara, a turn to the oTavanipupu Island Resort (%22586 in Honiara; covered in thick, green bush fall abruptly to another world either in the Nggela (Florida)
south from the coastal road brings you Tavanipupu island; s incl 3 meals A$250) If you’ve ever the shore. With very rustic (but acceptable) group or on Savo.
within 1km to the Vilu Open-Air Museum (S$25; dreamed of having your own island paradise, facilities and not another foreigner for miles, Central Province also comprises the
hdawn-dusk). There are US and Japanese this idyllic retreat has all the key ingredients – this is somewhere to wind down a few gears. Russell Islands. Only the Nggela group and
memorials, four large Japanese field guns exclusivity, seclusion, atmosphere. Digs are The biggest problem (or advantage, de- Savo have tourist infrastructure.
and the remains of several US aircraft, in- in six tastefully decorated, spacious bunga- pending on your perspective) is accessibility.
cluding a Wildcat fighter whose wings lows with hardwood furnishings. They are Roads? Regular boats or flights? Dream on! NGGELA ISLANDS
can still be folded as they were for naval scattered in a well-tended coconut grove that You’ll have to blaze your own trail – literally – Sipping a cold beverage at the Point Cruz
carrier-borne operations. overlooks the beach, and beds are possibly the on foot or by boat, or combining both. Making Yacht Club (p256) or Raintree Café (p255)
most comfortable in the Solomons. There’s no a journey on foot around the Weathercoast is in Honiara you may well wonder what
NDOMA electricity, but kerosene lamps are provided. testing, awe-inspiring and full of surprises, islands the rugged silhouettes looming ma-
Continue about 1km to Ndoma. The main rea- The restaurant utilises the freshest seafood, but it’s a journey that you’ll never forget. It’s jestically on the northern horizon are. They
son to stop here is to dive the wreck of the US including lobster, and does good desserts. a four- to six-day coastal trek from Lambi Bay form the Nggela group, or Florida Islands,
B17 Flying Fortress bomber which lies 100m Snorkelling is excellent (gear provided) and to Kuma, with splendid scenery all the way. between Guadalcanal and Malaita.
off the dark-grey sand beach (see p60). you can work your tan on sandy beaches. In The three- to four-day walk from Kuma to The two main islands are Tulagi and Nggela
case you tire of looking at the sea, there’s a Marau Sound follows the most stunning part Sule. They have fairly rugged interiors, con-
CAPE ESPÉRANCE library and board games. Bookings are made of the island’s southern coast. If you want voluted coastlines, long white-sand beaches
ὄὄ ὄὄ
Named by the French explorer D’Entre- through Guadalcanal Travel Services (p249) to shorten your trip, you can arrange canoe (they look great from the air on the Honiara–
casteaux in 1793 after the Espérance, it was in Honiara. Rates include boat transfers rides between villages. There’s no formal Auki flight) and mangrove swamps.
from here that the Japanese successfully and meals. accommodation, only village stays. A guide The Nggelas’ main draws? Diving, snorkel-
evacuated most of their 13,000 starving men Tawaihi Island Retreat (%24634, 94127 in Honiara; is mandatory. ling and an ultrachilled atmosphere.
at the end of the Guadalcanal campaign in Tawaihi island; s incl 3 meals S$460) Peter, an Australian
January and February 1943. They assembled citizen, and his wife Dee, a Solomon Islander, 0 20 km
on a hill just behind the cape to await evacu- go the extra yard to please visitors. On Tawaihi
CENTRAL PROVINCE 0 12 miles
ation, and were then given one hour to board island, facing the mainland, three cheerfully To Western
Province Buena Vista I
In
di
sp
the waiting ships. ramshackle bungalows are equipped with firm RUSSELL IS
Mangalonga (Mana) I NGGELA
e ns
(FLORIDA) IS ab
About 2km to the west is the settlement beds, functional bathrooms and a veranda le
of Vila, which is a good place to find a shared overlooking the sea. The beach is average SOLOMON SEA
Sandfly I Rara
S
Nggela Sule I
tr
Sandfly Siota
canoe ride to Savo (see p262). About 1km but you can snorkel, bushwalk or fish. Book Pavuvu I
a
Yandina Passage
it
Tulagi Salesape
further west (and 40km from Honiara) is through Peter’s contact in Honiara, Solomon Wernham
Mbanika I
Kuila Savo I Tulaghi I
Nggela
Visale, a timeless hamlet blessed with a ma- Airlines or SIVB. Boat transfers from Marau Cove (484m) Iron Bottom Pile I Toa
Sound
jestic setting – it’s wedged between the sea airfield are included. Tanatau Cove
262 C E N T R A L P R O V I N C E • • S a v o lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • W e s t N e w G e o r g i a 263
Mangalonga (Mana) bathroom S$230-250), next door to Tulagi Dive. Savo is one of the most dependable loca- formation on diving in the Russell Islands,
Tranquillity reigns supreme on this small It’s a no-frills place with bog-standard two- tions in the Solomons to spot pods of dolphins, see p61.
island near the northern end of the Nggela bed rooms, but it’s clean, quiet and affordable; which usually congregate off the west coast There are two main islands in the Russells
group. Come here for total isolation and perfect if you want to save your bucks for and can be seen frolicking around boats: a group, Pavuvu and Mbanika, plus 70 smaller
decompress at Maravagi Resort (%/fax 29065; the lovely diving. Food (meals from S$30) magical experience. islets. Yandina is the only town of consequence.
r A$50), which has an exceptional location – is average. The archipelago has lots of hidden treasures:
believe us, you’ll never forget your first glimpse Women travellers who’d like to interact Sleeping & Eating traditional cultures, lovely white-sand beaches,
of the gorgeous coral pinnacles that extend with local women can stay at the friendly Book your lodging through Solomon Islands prolific reef growth, sapphire-blue waters and
just off the dining room. Be sure to bring your Mothers’ Union & Women Resource Centre (%32116, Visitors Bureau in Honiara (p249). The fol- a pristine environment. Surprisingly, despite
snorkelling gear. The bungalows, while hardly 32113; r without bathroom S$150), a surprisingly lowing places are in Kuila village on the west its phenomenal tourist potential and its prox-
posh, are clean and comfortable and feature well-kept house on the other side of the coast. They can arrange dolphin watching as imity to Honiara, this gem of an archipelago
private bathrooms, breezy terraces, mozzie island. There are six fan-cooled rooms with well as guided walks to hot springs and to the hasn’t been developed – yet. Things might
nets and electricity. Avoid the six charmless laminate floors and a kitchen for guests’ use. megapode field (S$30 to S$80 per person). change in the near future, though; the Russell
adjoining rooms at the back. Food (meals per Meals can be arranged on request. No alcohol Kuila Village Stay (s incl 3 meals S$150) Four Islands is earmarked for development by local
day A$47) is tasty and copious. There’s not is allowed. seriously rustic rooms in a house made tourist authorities and investors.
a great deal to do on the island apart from from wooden planks, right in the village. Meanwhile, if a dive cruise is beyond
spending time in the water, but village visits GETTING THERE & AWAY Shared facilities. your financial means, you can always fly
and snorkelling trips to Sandfly Passage can Boats link Tulagi with Honiara (S$60, Sunset Lodge (%21213 in Honiara; s incl 3 meals S$230) from Honiara to Munda (or Gizo) over the
be arranged. Boat transfers from Honiara cost about 1½ hours). In Honiara, they leave Owned by former Prime Minister and current Russells. On a clear day, the views you’ll
a whopping A$182 for two people (A$276 for from the little beach near Point Cruz Yacht MP Sir Allan Kemakeza, this is your best bet if get of the archipelago will be forever etched
four). Credit cards are accepted. Club. The duration of the crossing is very you’re in search of a relaxing getaway without into your memory. Just be sure to get a
much weather-dependent. being too disconnected from the trappings of window seat!
Sandfly Passage modern civilisation. It features 20 tidy rooms,
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
The Sandfly Passage is famous for one thing: SAVO some with private bathrooms, in a fairly drab
the year-round presence of manta rays, which
can easily be seen while snorkelling. It’s truly
If you’re a reality-TV show producer, re-
joice: Savo has the ideal setting for your next
concrete building on a hillside. Be sure to ask
for a sea-facing room upstairs (downstairs
WESTERN PROVINCE
amazing. See p61. shooting of Survivor, with a laid-back tempo, rooms are pretty dark). Food is a definite plus, The Western Province hosts much of the
a couple of welcoming accommodation op- with copious meals using local ingredients, Solomons’ tourist industry, and it’s no won-
Tulagi tions and yes, wild, wild scenery. Though including (you guessed it), megapode eggs. der. It has everything in spades. Rejoicing
In the middle of the Nggelas, on Tulaghi lying just 14km north of Guadalcanal, Savo Hmm, fluffy omelettes. It’s a 10-minute walk begins with the diving. With prolific fish
island, Tulagi was the Solomons’ former capi- is a world away from the capital, which will south of Kuila Village Stay. life, a dramatic seascape and scores of pris-
tal; it was also a Japanese base during WWII. seem like a bustling metropolis once you’ve tine reefs (except for a few stretches that
This laid-back town, where time moves at a made it here. It’s an active volcano with a pair Getting There & Away were destroyed by the 2007 earthquake), it’s
crawl, has a few useful services for travellers, of dormant but potentially dangerous craters, Tour operators in Honiara (p253) organise heaven on earth for a diver. The Western
including a post office, an ANZ ATM (but one enclosing the other. Much of the island is full-day trips to Savo but we recommend Province also has much to offer above the
bring cash in case it gets wobbly), a Telekom fringed by coconut groves and a narrow strip staying at least two days to soak up the at- surface: from WWII relics to skull shrines,
office and a couple of places to stay. Boat of grey-sand beach. mosphere. Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau and challenging hikes to village visits. Then
building and the administration of provincial The island has a number of hot springs and in Honiara (p249) can also organise transfers there’s simply the visual appeal, with scenery
government are its main activities. There’s a thermal areas containing boiling mud pools. (from S$500 charter one-way). reminiscent of an Indiana Jones or Tarzan
beach on the western side of the island, but The most easily accessible are Reoka hot Another option is to hook onto a shared boat flick: tall volcanic islands, croc-infested
don’t expect powdery sand. It’s a leisurely springs, which can be reached after a one-hour ride from Vila (northwest of Guadalcanal) or mangroves, expansive lagoons, white-sand
two-hour walk following the 9km gravel track walk following the course of the Kolika River Honiara (S$80, about 1¾ hours). In Honiara, bars, inky-blue seas, tropical islets and soar-
around the island. upstream – a very scenic walk in a tropical inquire at the little beach near the Point Cruz ing mountains that pierce the sky. It’s not
There’s fabulous diving off Tulagi, including setting. The final stretch is a bit tricky; you’ll Yacht Club. just a movie here, it’s real life.
world-class wrecks (see p61). Based at Vanita have to clamber in parts. The water bubbling Gizo, Munda and Marovo Lagoon are the
Motel, Tulagi Dive (%32131, 32052; www.tulagidive up is hot enough to poach an egg. RUSSELL ISLANDS three unmissable destinations in ‘The West’.
.com.sb) is a highly professional dive shop run Make sure you see the megapode field which Lucky you! If you read this section, this Thanks to reliable inter-island boat and
by Australian Neil Yates, who adheres to strict extends for around 400m along the beach, to probably means you’re going to do a cruise plane services, they can easily be combined
safety procedures for deep dives. Top marks the northwest of Savo. During the night, hun- on a live-aboard dive boat such as the MV and toured at a comfortable, leisurely pace.
for its excellent gear, too. Prices start at S$350 dreds of female birds come to the field and dig Bilikiki (Map pp2523M034C) or the MV Spirit of
for a reef dive (S$450 for a deep dive). Gear down to about 90cm, where the temperature is Solomons (Map pp252-3; www.bilikiki.com), the only WEST NEW GEORGIA
hire is S$400, and transfers from Honiara cost ideal to incubate their eggs. Come very early outfits that schedule regular trips around In the seduction stakes, the island of New
S$500 return. as the birds fly off once the villagers come the Russell Islands. This is a famous dive Georgia and its western neighbours, including
Most divers bunk down at Vanita Motel to harvest the eggs, which are considered a destination, with exciting underwater to- Vonavona, Kohinggo, Rendova and Tetepare,
(%32074; fax 32186; r without bathroom S$180, r with local delicacy. pography and prolific marine life. For in- seem to have always played second fiddle to
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ὄ
264 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • W e s t N e w G e o r g i a
WESTERN PROVINCE 0
0
lonelyplanet.com
60 km
40 miles
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
ὄ
To Shortland Islands
(see inset) Santa (including Skull Island), to Holupuru Falls, nery and it’s the fastest-growing town in
Isabel I and various WWII sites (especially the relics the Solomons. There’s no reason to stop in
N e w
G e o at Enoghae, Baeroko Bay, Kohinggo and Vila Noro, unless you want to see the fish can-
r g ISABEL
Vella Lavella I
i a PROVINCE Point). Prices start at S$450 for two people nery. Noro Lodge (% 62138; Noro; d S$130-200)
S o
Vonunu
Sosolo NEW GEORGIA IS u n
d
(half a day). caters mainly to fishery workers and has a
Vella
Mt Kolambangara
( T licensed restaurant.
ὄὄὄ
ὄὄ
Gulf h
Sielezavanga Kolambangara I
Kula Mt Mase
e SLEEPING & EATING In Baeroko Bay you’ll see the Casi Maru, a
ait Ramata I
o Str Iriri Gulf (843m) S
l Agnes Lodge (%62133; www.agneslodge.com.sb; s A$16- sunken Japanese freighter near the shore. Its
Giz Ghizo I Ringgi o
Gizo Kohinggo I
New Georgia I
Ramata
t ) 22, d A$38-132, ste A$155-190; a) New Zealander rusty masts protrude from the water. It was
Ranongga I Mbabanga I Noro Munda
Airport
Airfield
and owner Don Croft ensures everything runs bombed as its crane was loading cargo on
Marovo Lagoon
Vonavona I Viru
Harbour
smoothly at this long-established venture right to an adjacent barge. Enoghae, at the jutting
Simbo I Vonavona Munda
on the waterfront (no beach). You’ll meet an northern lip of the bay, has several large
B
Lagoon Arara
la
Lola Seghe Vangunu I Japanese WWII anti-aircraft guns still hidden in
ὄὄὄ
Roviana
interesting mix of people staying here, such
n
Island Lagoon h To Central Province
c
e Gatokae
PAPUA NEW B Rendova I
C
ha
Seghe
Airfield Mt Vangunu
Airfield as RAMSI personnel divers and Taiwanese the scrub.
ou
el Nggatokae
Bougainville
Roviana Lagoon
in
Fauro I
Tetepare I Map (p267)
to self-contained units. The restaurant serves Extending 52km eastwards from Munda to
Mborokua I
St rai
up excellent food, including a sensational Kalena Bay, Roviana Lagoon has many small
Roviana lobster (S$110), and the convivial idyllic islets formed from coral shoals. The
t
SHORTLAND
Korovou
IS Kavachi Submarine
Volcano
bar is the most happening place in town. It’s best way to appreciate its visual splendour is
Shortland I a short walk from the airstrip. Credit cards to join a lagoon tour. Contact Go West Tours
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
are accepted. (opposite) in Munda or Zipolo Habu Resort
Mono I
(below) on Lola island. Due south of Roviana
SOLOMON SEA
TREASURY GETTING THERE & AWAY Lagoon, Rendova is home to about 3000 peo-
IS
Stirling I Same scale as main map The minuscule airport terminal has a Solomon ple. Climbing Rendova Peak (1063m) takes a
Airlines (%61152) counter. Solomon Airlines two-day return trip.
connects Munda with Honiara (from S$750, Four kilometres east of Munda, Nusa Roviana
the better-hyped Ghizo Island area or Marovo SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES daily), Gizo (from S$395, daily) and Seghe is of strong historical significance. Notorious
Lagoon. But we say: no longer! West New There’s not much to see in Munda (and no (from S$395, daily). Flights go twice-weekly headhunter Ingava ruled from a coral-walled
Georgia has its fair share of idyllic spots, as real beaches), but it’s worth taking a 20- to Ramata (from S$395). fortress built on the island until it was de-
well as attractive accommodation options and minute walk from Agnes Lodge (opposite) Go West Tours (%62180), based at Agnes stroyed in 1892. His tribe had a dog, Tiola, as
a hatful of historical sights. And divers take to Kia, where you’ll find the US Dump (S$20), Lodge, has a shuttle service to Gizo (S$140, its totem. Remains of the Stone Dog and 500m
note: the coral reefs are flabbergasting, with which features a pile of WWII material rust- two hours, three weekly) stopping at Noro of coral walls are still visible.
the added thrill of regular shark action. ing in the bush. On the main road above and Ringgi on Kolombangara en route. It
the US Dump, Bolton Lizu operates a small departs Munda at 7.30am. The MV Pelican Vonavona Lagoon
Munda museum of WWII relics. Express (%28104) doesn’t pull into Munda on Wow! This lovely lagoon extends for 28km be-
New Georgia’s largest settlement, the lit- Munda is a destination of choice for de- its Sunday HoniaraGizo route, but does stop tween the tiny islets of Blackett Strait and the
tle town of Munda, on New Georgia itself, manding divers, who have the pick of lots at nearby Ughele (from Honiara S$320) on long, sandy island of Nusaghele. Within this
makes a convenient, if not glamorous, base of superlative dives (see p61). Diving is run Rendova and at Noro (from Honiara S$340), area are many islets, ringed by coral-encrusted
for exploring the area’s many attractions. by the very professional Dive Munda (%62156; from where you can easily find transport shallows interspersed with deeper seas.
It has the airport terminal, government of- www.mundadive.com), based at Agnes Lodge. Two to Munda. The MV Solomon Express (%28064 You’ve probably seen the image of Skull
fices, a police station and a well-equipped morning boat dives will set you back A$150 in Honiara) does the same route on Friday Island on enough websites and leaflets. It’s time
hospital. The post office (h8am-noon & 1-3.30pm with tank and weights, or A$180 with all (same fares). to check out the real thing, on a tiny islet at
Mon-Fri) is in the centre, as is the Bank South equipment. An open-water course costs the tip of Kundu Point on Vonavona Lagoon.
Pacific (%62177; h8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri), where about A$630. At most dive sites, snorkelling Around New Georgia A truly spooky sight, it’s the final resting
you can change cash and travellers cheques. (A$45) is possible, offering good visibility and Fancy a dip? Head to the 10m Holupuru Falls, place for the skulls of countless vanquished
The ANZ branch, inside the post office, plenty to see. just north of the bridge over the Mburape warriors, as well as a shrine for the skulls of
can do cash advances on your credit card River, east of Munda. If you’ve got itchy feet, Rendovan chiefs. The skull house is a small,
(Visa and MasterCard), and an ATM ought TOURS you can hike up Mt Bau, about 9km inland. triangular-shaped casket which also contains
to have been installed just outside the post The easiest way to get a broad look at the You’ll need a guide to show you the way (ask the chiefs’ clam-shell-ring valuables.
office by the time you read this. Check delights around West New Georgia is to take at Agnes Lodge, above). On Lola island, about 20 minutes by boat
your emails at Telekom (per hr S$48; h8am-noon a half- or one-day tour. Based at Agnes Lodge Here’s a surprise: Noro, 16km northwest from Munda, Zipolo Habu Resort (%62178; www
& 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri). (opposite), Go West Tours (%62180; h7am-5pm of Munda up the Diamond Narrows, has .zipolohabu.com.sb; s without bathroom A$70, d without bath-
266 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n 267
room A$100-140, deluxe A$180) satiates the white- of beautiful small islands, most of which are 0 12 km
sand beach, coconut-palm, azure-lagoon covered by coconut palms and rainforest and
MAROVO LAGOON 0 7 miles
To Mavo Tatama I
fantasy and corners the market in castaway surrounded by coral. Lodge (40km) A B C D
Avavasa I
chic, with six spacious, fan-cooled bungalows. The main gateway to Marovo Lagoon, Ne
The recently finished deluxe unit boasts pri- Seghe, is strung along the Njai Passage, Uepi I w
Ge
Inavo I
vate bathrooms and unobstructed views over which links Noro Lagoon to Marovo Lagoon. 1
Charopoana I o r
g i
9
the lagoon. The restaurant (meals per day Most of the islands’ villages are dotted along 2 Karikana I a
Lumalihe I
A$60) gets rave reviews, and the beer is always the coast. S
o
u
ὄ
cold. This place offers village tours, lagoon Despite its sexy proportions, Marovo is Marovo Lagoon
Sambulo I n
d
Matiu I
excursions, hiking, sportfishing and surf char- far from being the gin-stained Edenic para- New Georgia I MINDEMINDE (
T
IS
ters. Divers can be picked up at the resort by dise that’s often touted on posters or web- Sasaghana
Marovo Chea Telina Village
Telina Island
h
I
e
Dive Munda. Credit cards are accepted. sites. A few notable things may leave you Chumbikopi
Cheke
On Kohinggo island, there is a wrecked US disillusioned. First, the island shorelines Chemoho
S
3 Porepore I
Michi I
l
o
Laghemba Nggasini
Sherman tank at Tahitu, on the northern are heavily wooded – it’s more mangrove- Mt Reku Falls
t
)
(520m) 5
ὄὄ
ὄ
shore. It was lost in action in September fringed coastal swamps than sweeping 2
Nazareth
Patutiva
Mbatuna Mbatuna
1943 when US marines overran a Japanese stretches of sand. Then there are the strains 7 Seghe Airfield
ὄὄ
ὄ
Mt Vangunu Riv
on the environment. No electricity. Just leath- to brownish, and chokes up the reefs. The 4 (1123m)
er
Tambapaeva I Mbili
erback and green turtles, dugongs, hornbills, contentious logging issue discouraged the Tachoava I 8
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Matikuri I
pygmy parrots and other rare wildlife. This proponents of listing Marovo Lagoon as a 3
Mbopo Minjanga I
Mbunikalo
large rainforest island is one of the Solomons’ World Heritage site. Nineveh Tenggomo I
conservation jewels. Chalu I Gatokae
Mbale Hotoanivena I
The best thing is that travellers can enjoy Information Airfield
Sombiro
this slice of untouched paradise. The Tetepare There are no phones. Bookings for the Mt Mariu
6
Kingguru I
Descendants’ Association (%62163 in Munda; www resorts and lodges can be made through Penjuku
(887m) Anchorage
Mbulo I
Kavolavata
.tetepare.org; s incl 3 meals S$250), which manages the SIVB in Honiara (p249), through Solomon 10
S O L O M O N S E A Nggatokae I
island, welcomes visitors in its simple yet gen- Airlines (p257) or the main tour operators Peava 1
Male To Kicha
Island
uinely eco-friendly three-room leafhouse (no in Honiara (p253). The most upmarket Male I
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Mbiche
air-con, shared facilities). This place plans to resorts have satellite phones and email ac- 4 Solomon Dive Adventures........... 1 D4 Rogosakena Lodge.......................5 C2
build another two bungalows. A host of activi- cess. There’s no bank; bring a stash of cash. SLEEPING
Ropiko Lodge..............................6
Seghe Rest House........................7
D3
A2
ties are available (from S$50). Why not assist Wilderness Lodge and Uepi Island Resort Charapoana Lodge.......................2 B1 Tibara Lodge............................... 8 D3
rangers in tagging marine turtles, measuring accept credit cards. Kajoro Sunset Lodge....................3 C2
Matikuri Lodge............................4 A3
Uepi Island Resort.........................9
Wilderness Lodge...................... 10
B1
D4
coconut crabs or counting birds? Or enjoy a
rainforest walk with a knowledgeable guide? Sights & Activities
Or snorkel around pristine reefs in a protected Here is where you can visit villages where across a gem of a beach, shoot us an email. in Peava (South Marovo Lagoon). It pays
area? Or learn about customary plant usages? nothing happens in a hurry, be in awe of Take note that Marovo Lagoon is strongly off to dive with each dive shop to maxim-
Or simply chill out on a secluded beach? Food tambu (sacred) sites, clear your conscience at Seventh Day Adventist, so you can’t do much ise your diving experience during your stay
is delicious too. No alcohol is available, but it’s a Sunday church service, picnic on a deserted on Saturday. in Marovo:
BYO. One downside: one-way transfers cost island, take a lagoon tour or a fishing trip, Solomon Dive Adventures (satellite %8816 315
a steep S$1000 per boatload from Munda or play sardines on the strand, hear the myths DIVING & SNORKELLING 63887; www.solomondiveadventures.com; Peava) Opened
Seghe and last two hours. and legends of the islanders, meet master Oh to have a few more hours in the day to in 2007, this newish operation run by ebullient Lisa
carvers or read a book in a hammock – squeeze in more dives! Marovo Lagoon pro- Roquette is conveniently based in Peava, a 10-minute
MAROVO LAGOON it’s a tough life at Marovo, isn’t it? For the vides superb dives for both experts and nov- walk from Wilderness Lodge (p269). She runs dive trips
Here’s the province’s trophy piece. The ge- actively inclined, there are a few fantastic ices. Channels, caves, drop-offs, coral gardens, to Mbulo, Kicha and Male Male Islands. Fun dives cost
ography says it all: on New Georgia’s eastern options too. Tours and activities can be ar- bommies and clouds of technicolour fish (and from US$40 to US$55, and gear rental is an extra US$55
side, Marovo Lagoon is the world’s finest ranged through the resorts. yes, sharks are part of the package) – what per day.
double barrier–enclosed lagoon, bordered by A word about beaches: Marovo is not a more could a diver hope for? See the diving Uepi Island Resort (www.uepi.com; Uepi island) One of
the mysterious, volcanic New Georgia and beach holiday destination. Truly idyllic chapter (p62) for more information. the best dive centres in the Solomons. Grant and Jill offer
Vangunu Islands on one side and a double line stretches of sand are as scarce as needles in Marovo Lagoon has two state-of-the-art stunning dives (from A$60) throughout North Marovo La-
of long barrier islands on the other. It’s rife a haystack. Expect dense, green foliage kiss- dive centres. One is based at Uepi Point goon. Caters mainly to the resort’s guests but non-guests
with dramatic scenery, including hundreds ing the ocean instead. Should you come (North Marovo Lagoon), the other is located are welcome, space permitting.
268 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • M a r o v o L a g o o n 269
The live-aboard dive vessels MV Bilikiki (see If you’re after solid amenities, opt for Uepi with four rooms overlooking a narrow strip simple rooms facing the lagoon (no beach).
p263) and the MV Spirit of Solomons usually Island Resort (opposite) or Wilderness Lodge of beach (aim for the room that’s the closest Various tours and village visits can be organ-
include the South Marovo Lagoon into their (opposite). to the lapping waves). Food is copious and ised, including a trek up to Mt Reku (520m).
nine- and 12-day cruises. All places have a seafront location, but few surprisingly varied. The ‘mangrove toilet’, if Rogosakena Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$250) Run
With hundreds of lovely sites scattered have a beachfront location – we can’t stress not exactly eco-friendly, is something to be by Ralph and his wife, who keep the place
throughout the lagoon, snorkelling is equally it enough. used to be believed (watch your bum, dar- shipshape, this place eases you right into the
impressive. Lodges can organise lagoon tours ling…). Various activities are on offer (from peaceful lifestyle of Vangunu. The veranda
and snorkelling trips, which cost anything MATIKURI S$150), including village visits, bushwalks, overlooking the lagoon was rated as ‘the best
from S$20 to S$100 per person depend- Matikuri Lodge (s/d S$60/120, per bungalow S$125) This snorkelling and picnic trips. You can dive at reading balcony in Marovo’ by expat guests –
ing on distance and duration. Bring your charming little place at the western arc of Uepi Island Resort (below) if it’s not full – it’s we agree. Take a snooze in a hammock and
own gear. Marovo Lagoon grows on you quickly, with a two-minute boat ride away. Return boat throw your cares to the wind. The two rooms
three island-style, well-proportioned bunga- transfers to Seghe airstrip cost S$500. are simply designed, but welcoming. Ask for
KAYAKING lows that face the sea. Relaxing on your private oUepi Island Resort (www.uepi.com) This the room that faces the sea. The provided
Diving is king in Marovo, but kayaking can terrace with a fruit juice in hand, you begin to extremely well-run resort is very popular meals are average. There’s no beach, but
be very rewarding too. Uepi Island Resort think you must be a millionaire to be able to with Australian divers, who stay here to get snorkelling trips to nearby islands can easily
(opposite) can arrange multiday kayaking afford such a privileged existence. For budget- thrilled by the sensational dive sites right on be arranged. If you happen to be there on a
trips, overnighting in lodges along the way – eers, there are four adjoining rooms in the their doorstep. Snorkellers will also get a buzz Thursday, the owners will take you by boat to
an excellent way to discover the lagoon at a main house, with walls that don’t quite make on the house reef that spreads from the end Mbatuna market.
leisurely pace. it to the ceiling (not so hot for honeymoon- of the short jetty where the island falls away
ers). The dining area (meals per day S$100) 30m to a deep tidal channel. The best thing NGGATOKAE
SPORTFISHING has a large deck on stilts. Benjamin and his is that it also appeals to honeymooners and Tibara Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$180) This venue run
Mavo Lodge (right) specialises in fishing trips. wife Jilly can arrange guided walks and village families. The key to its success: a laid-back, by chief Luton is a hit-and-miss affair. Some
Go Tours Travel (%07-5527 9855 in Australia; www.go visits on Vangunu as well as trips to Bareho, a uncomplicated yet well-organised approach. travellers rave about the location and the snor-
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
tours.com.au), based in Queensland, Australia, Seventh-Day Adventist carving centre (from A series of spacious bungalows is scattered kelling potential of the lagoon that girths the
offers fishing packages to Mavo Lodge. S$50), lagoon tours (S$200 plus fuel) and vis- amid lovely bush gardens, spider orchids and island’s northern tip, but we found the two
its to Seghe’s market on Tuesday. There are coconut palms. They are more functional than bungalows a bit derelict when we stopped
WALKING canoes for hire (from S$50). Boat transfers luxurious (no air-con, ordinary furnishings). by; probably due to a lack of recent traffic,
If you’ve got itchy feet, it’s easy to indulge to Seghe airstrip (20 minutes) are S$50 plus Meals are served in a breezy dining room which is an acceptable excuse. The wreck of
in a bushwalking bonanza. There are vari- fuel. Bookings can be made through Solomon with superb views. Perks include a bar, a a USAAF B24D bomber lies crumpled in the
ous half-, one- or two-day walks through Airlines (p257), or you could try emailing the library-cum-book-swap facility, and a DVD nearby bush.
gardens, rainforest and friendly villages. following address: [email protected] player in the common area. The resort has Ropiko Lodge ([email protected]; s incl 3 meals
Most lodges will be happy to provide a guide .sb, FAO: ‘Benjamin Kaniotoku’. a full dive shop and there’s a good activity S$300) The two bungalows here are a bit worn
and help you organise your walk. Suggested programme, with traditional dance, overnight out, so you’ll get to stay in the main house
walks include the two-day trek to Mt Mariu SEGHE kayaking trips, snorkelling excursions and overlooking the lagoon, and there is a coconut
(887m) on Nggatokae, the two-hour walk Seghe Rest House (s/d S$75/150) There’s abso- village tours. Compared with other places in grove as the backdrop. A wrecked Japanese
to the hill that lords over Chea Village on lutely no reason to stay here unless you get Marovo, it feels much more Westernised, de- Zero fighter lies at the back of the property.
Marovo island and the half-day walk to Mt stranded in Seghe. Rooms are ultrabasic and spite the fact that staff are local (apart from Good snorkelling on the nearby reef.
Reku (520m) on Vangunu. Don’t forget the attached ‘bar’ is the focal point for a boozy the Australian owners). o Wilderness Lodge ( % satellite in the
your camera – the views over the lagoon crowd, seemingly any time of the day. It’s just Solomon Islands +61 145 125 948; www.thewilderness
are heavenly. across the airstrip. VANGUNU lodge.org; s incl 3 meals A$120) A more friendly
Avoid Kuba Island Resort (on Kuba Island, place you’ll be hard-pressed to find. Corey
Sleeping & Eating RAMATA an islet just off Vangunu), which is a meeting is Australian, his wife Waelinah is from
There’s a fairly good network of eco-lodges Mavo Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$300) Located at North point for loggers in search of ‘entertainment’ – Nggatokae, and you’ll get the best of both
in the lagoon. These low-key establish- Marovo Lagoon, beside the Ramata airstrip, you get the picture. worlds. The two rooms are immaculately
ments (‘lodge’ is a loose term) are built in this well-regarded lodge specialises in fish- Kajoro Sunset Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$200) John maintained, the shared bathrooms are in
the traditional style using local materials ing trips. Snorkelling excursions and cultural Wein, the ebullient (some might opt for ‘in- top nick, the food is healthy, there’s 24-hour
and are great places to experience an au- tours are also available. The three-bedroom tense’) owner, is a kind of local Che Guevara. solar-generated electricity, the house reef is
thentic cultural experience. There are few house looks onto the open ocean. He’ll be more than happy to explain every- sensational, there are lovely swimming and
frills (read: foam mattresses, a rudimentary thing you ever wanted to know about the snorkelling spots just offshore and the at-
ablution block at the back of the property, UEPI & CHARAPOANA wrongdoings of local logging companies. mosphere is delightfully chilled out. We can’t
cold showers) but a few tourist comforts Charapoana Lodge (s incl 3 meals S$290) Just across Other favourite, but less contentious, topics think of a better recipe for paradise. Another
are considered (such as a sit-down toilet the passage from Uepi island, this rustic place include tribal history and local legends. He’s strong point is the host of sea- and land-
if you’re lucky and mozzie nets). Kerosene exudes a Melanesian family atmosphere. also a renowned master carver and has a little related excursions available, including div-
lamps are used for lighting. Meals are simple Amiable owner Katrey and his family accom- ‘showroom’ where beautiful carvings are dis- ing (there’s a full-service dive centre nearby),
but wholesome. modate guests in a large, well-built bungalow played. Digs are in a rustic bungalow with two crocodile-spotting, ‘coconut crabbing’, river
270 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d 271
AIR tions; its status of provincial capital helped. Sea Plane SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Mid
13 Dive Gizo...............................7 A1
There are two mains gateways to Marovo:
de
Sprawled along the waterfront with its steep Dive Gizo.............................(see 1)
nw
Seghe (for North Marovo Lagoon) and Ghizo Harbour Market...................................8 B2
ay
18
hills behind, Gizo is not bereft of appeal, al- St Stephen Cathedral.............9 B2
Rd
Nggatokae (for South Marovo Lagoon). A though the architecture is charmless. There is Japanese
Zero Fighter
Solomon Watersport............(see 1)
third gateway is Ramata (for Mavo Lodge, a smattering of buildings gently rusting away 3 SLEEPING
Main
p268, and North Marovo Lagoon in case of under the tropical sun. Most places of impor- To Titiana (3km);
Pailongge (7km);
15 17
16 8
20
Wharf Gelvinas Motel.....................10 B2
bad weather at Seghe). Flights connect Seghe tance are on the main street. Apart from the Saeraghi (14km)
10
Gizo Hotel...........................11
Nagua Resthouse.................12
C2
C3
6
to Honiara (from S$666), Munda (from S$495) bustling market on the waterfront, there are 2 5
11
1 Nello's Villa..........................13 A1
21 Phoebe's Resthouse.............14 C3
and Gizo (from S$465) six days a week. Take no specific sights. The main reason to come 2 Football
Field
4
Rekona Moamoa Lodge.......15 A2
Customs
note that Solomon Airlines is fickle and flir- here is (you guessed it) diving. 9
EATING
tatious with Seghe’s little airstrip, and flights Daily Bread Kitchen..............16 B2
are regularly rerouted through Ramata, espe- INFORMATION Gizo Nest Restaurant...........17 B2
Malakepavi Lamasa.................................18 B1
cially in bad weather. Nggatokae is serviced Antech Computer Ltd (Middenway Rd; per hr S$50; Market(eat).........................(see 8)
from Honiara (from S$617, three weekly) and h8.30am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 5pm Fri, 2-6pm Sun) Quick Nuzu Nuzu Restaurant.......(see 11)
12 PT 109.................................19 A1
Seghe (or Munda, three weekly). connections.
DRINKING
ANZ Bank (%60262; Middenway Rd; h9am-3pm Gizo Hotel (d)....................(see 11)
BOAT Mon-Fri) Has an ATM (Visa & MasterCard). 14 PT 109(d)..........................(see 19)
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Both MV Pelican Express (%28104) and MV Solomon Bank South Pacific (Middenway Rd; h8.30am-3pm 3 To Paradise Tim
pala ENTERTAINMENT
Lodge (1km)
Express (%28064 in Honiara) stop at Mbunikalo Mon-Fri) Changes cash and travellers cheques. Rd
INFORMATION Bamboo ............................(see 11)
Antech Computer Ltd............1 C2
(S$240, 20 minutes from Nggatokae), Nggasini Hospital (%60224; Middenway Rd) ANZ Bank..............................2 B2 TRANSPORT
(in central Marovo; S$280) and Seghe (S$300) Immigration Office (h8am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon- Bank South Pacific..................3 B2 Gizo Hotel Jetty...................20 C2
Dive Gizo...........................(see 11) Solomon Airlines..................21 C2
on their way to Gizo. The MV Pelikan Express Fri) Behind ANZ Bank. Can issue a visitor’s permit if you
plies this route on Sunday (return on Monday) proceed from Bougainville (PNG) and the Shortland Islands.
while the MV Solomon Express runs on Friday Police (%60966) it’s a first-rate dive destination in the Another dive shop, Solomon Watersport
(return on Sunday). Telekom (Middenway Rd; per hr S$48; h8.30am-4pm) Pacific. Sure, it lost some of its appeal (%60646; Middenway Rd), had temporarily closed
Sells phonecards. Internet access is available too (one thanks to the 2007 tsunami and its impact down when we visited. It normally oper-
GHIZO ISLAND computer only). on several high-profile sites, but you won’t ates from the Gizo Hotel (p272). It’s run by
Mother Nature was profoundly unkind to leave disappointed after visiting here. At Hans Mergozzi, who also owns Sanbis Resort
Ghizo. The island was close enough to the SIGHTS the time of writing, there was only one (p272). Travellers should know about the
epicentre of an underwater earthquake to have Apart from a few churches and a handful of operational dive centre, Dive Gizo (%60253; bitter feud (but not take sides) between the
suffered a severe punch from the April 2007 mildly interesting memorials, there’s little to www.divegizo.com; Middenway Rd), at the western two outfits.
tsunami. The southwest coast was worst hit, see in Gizo. Go to the market (%Mon-Sat) and end of town (there’s also a sales office be- There’s no shortage of snorkelling spots on
leaving Gilbertese villagers between Titiana soak up the atmosphere. Villagers from neigh- side the Gizo Hotel, p272). A solid profes- the lagoon, including Kennedy Island, just off
and Saeraghi homeless. Unfortunately this sad bouring islands (and even from the Shortland sional outfit, it’s been run by Danny and Fatboys. Take the shuttle to Fatboys (S$50),
event brought negative media attention to the Islands) arrive each morning by boat to oc- Kerrie Kennedy since 1985. They also oper- hire snorkelling gear (S$50) at the resort and
area, affecting the local businesses including cupy their little stands under the shade of ate Dive Munda in Munda (p264). They’ll snorkel to your heart’s content.
those geared towards tourism. However, Ghizo tall trees. The only place that could qualify meet you at the airport or wharf and drive What’s quite new to the Solomons is surf-
Island is on the mend. Enough aid workers as a sight is World Fish Centre (%60022; Nusatupe you to your digs. You’ll pay A$140 for a ing, and we’re not complaining. Here, you
have arrived to kick-start an economy catering island; admission S$20; hby reservation), on Nusatupe two-tank dive, including picnic (add an can be guaranteed almost virgin waves.
to NGOs, and travellers, especially divers, are island (Gizo’s airstrip). This clam farm and extra A$20 for gear rental). An open-water There’s excellent point surfing off Pailongge,
trickling in. Sure, rebuilding of homes has been research centre run by a New Zealand couple certification is A$630. We love their two- on Ghizo’s southern coast. The October-to-
slow but, all things considered, the destruction accepts visitors. There’s a small visitor centre tank dive organisation; you spend your April swell rises to 2m or more. There’s a great
was fairly limited – nothing to be compared to with information on research programmes. surface interval picnicking on a secluded left-hander nearer Titiana village, with a long
the 2004 disaster in Asia. It’s a good spot if you want to snorkel over island or having lunch at Fatboys (p272), a paddle out to the reef’s edge, and a right at
Little Ghizo Island is a dwarf next to its giant clams of up to 1m long in the lagoon. winning formula. Pailongge. Dive Gizo (left) employs a local
neighbours, but it has the Solomons’ second- Most dives are less than a 20-minute surfer who’s finding new breaks all the time.
biggest ‘city’, Gizo (pronounced the same, ACTIVITIES boat ride from Gizo and include wrecks Bring your own boards.
spelt differently), the most developed area Gizo has made a name for itself in diving, and reef dives. See p63 for more informa- If island life is making you a little claustro-
outside the capital. diving, diving (and maybe some snorkelling); tion on diving. phobic, you can stretch your legs on a walk
272 W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com W E S T E R N P R O V I N C E • • G h i z o I s l a n d 273
around Ghizo Island. Walks of various dura- (the more expensive ones have good views). just offshore, snooze in a hammock, treat ably exotic, with wood-carved posts, wooden
tions (anything from one to 10 hours) can If you get up at night for a glass of water in yourself to a healthy meal at the wonder- tables and wicker seating. Food-wise it’s a bit
be tackled. Ask at Dive Gizo (p271) for more the communal kitchen you might well come fully laid-back over-the-water restaurant or more conservative, with well-executed fish
details. If you’re a hiking fiend, we’d unhesitat- across, er, a few critters of varying sizes but kayak over translucent waters. Proprietor and meat dishes as well as daily specials. The
ingly recommend the climb up Kolombangara hey, this is the tropics. Overall the whole Grant Griffiths is a good guy who ensures Friday evening barbecue is popular.
(see p274). place is decently maintained, linen is fresh that there’s a positive ambience. Beach-wise, Hmm, sweet bananas… For organic
and the staff is friendly. Prayers are held every it’s a bit less overwhelming – you’ll have to fruits and vegetables, as well as fresh fish,
SLEEPING Wednesday evening in the kitchen; join the do with a narrow strip of sand. One thing is nothing can beat the market (hMon-Sat) on
In Gizo ceremony. Amen. sure: after several days here, your mission to the waterfront.
Phoebe’s Resthouse (%60161; s S$60) On a hill Gelvinas Motel (%60276; Middenway Rd; s/d S$300/ relax accomplished, you’ll find it difficult to
overlooking the town, this is the best place 350; a) An honest-to-goodness outfit lo- pack up and leave. DRINKING & ENTERTAINMENT
in town to meet crimson-faced British medi- cated right in the centre. It features spacious The best drinking dens include the bar at
cal students who work at the hospital as part and quite comfortable rooms with access to EATING the Gizo Hotel (opposite) and PT 109 (left).
of their studies. Phoebe’s is one of their fa- a small balcony overlooking the main drag. Daily Bread Kitchen (Middenway Rd; h6am-6pm During the day, nothing can beat a frothy
vourite ports of call, and they seem happy Noisy? Yes, in the morning. Mon-Fri, to noon Sun) Parisian baguettes it won’t tropical cocktail at Fatboys.
with the basic (read spartan) two-bed rooms Gizo Hotel (%60199; www.gizohotel.com; Middenway deliver, but the bread is fresh. If you want to relive Saturday Night Fever
with shared bathrooms. This place gets bonus Rd; r S$550-715; ais) A classic, well-managed Gizo Nest Restaurant (Middenway Rd; mains S$20-65; island-style, try Bamboo (Middenway Rd; hFri & Sat),
points for its breezy veranda affording effort- establishment, this is a perennial favourite for hbreakfast, lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Come here for a which is part of the Gizo Hotel (opposite),
lessly picture-perfect views over the ocean and its central location, salubrious yet unflashy bellyful of chicken or beef dishes with a Chinese which also has a karaoke evening on Friday, or
the neighbouring islands. rooms and professional service. Popular with bent, or tuck into acceptable sandwiches that PT 109 (left), which can get wild on weekends
Paradise Lodge (%60024; s without bathroom S$77, expats, aid workers and businesspeople, it won’t blow your budget. With its frilly curtains (those naughty medical students…).
d S$198-275) Call a psychotherapist! This wel- can’t quite shake that just-a-motel feeling, and naive murals, the décor is laughably naff.
coming abode obviously suffers from exces- despite a swimming pool at the rear. Its trump Lamasa (Middenway Rd; mains S$25-35; hlunch Mon- SHOPPING
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
sive self-esteem, but offers commanding views card is its wide array of facilities (wi-fi, air- Fri) Blink and you’ll miss it. That’s how discreet Dive Gizo (p271) and Gizo Hotel (opposite)
over the sea (with Simbo and Rendova islands con, gift shop, bar and restaurant). Credit Lamasa is, with its unobtrusive façade and have a rather wide selection of stone- and
seen on the horizon). It’s perched on a hill in cards are accepted. inoffensive décor. It’s nothing more than a woodcarvings.
a quiet area, a 30-minute walk from down- few tables but it’s hygienically kept and the
town Gizo (S$20 by taxi). Bathrooms are in Mbabanga Island fish ’n’ chips are brilliant value. No alcohol. GETTING THERE & AWAY
good shape. The budget rooms downstairs are A mere 10-minute boat ride south of Gizo, Too bad it’s closed on weekends. Air
cramped and a bit sombre; it’s worth shelling this island has a brochure-esque appeal, with PT 109 (Middenway Rd; mains S$40-90; hlunch Mon- The Solomon Airlines (%60173; Middenway Rd;
out for the more expensive rooms upstairs, an expansive lagoon and a string of white- Fri) Named after John F Kennedy’s WWII h8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) office is near the police
as they have private facilities and sea views. sand beaches. patrol boat that sank off Gizo, and situated station. The airfield is on Nusatupe island
You won’t have to venture outside after dark; Sanbis Resort (%66313; [email protected]; in a great waterfront location, this place has (canoe transfer S$20). Daily flights link Gizo
homemade meals can be provided (S$40 to i) A place of easy bliss. The lagoon is relaxed vibes. A blackboard displays a few to Honiara (from S$840), via Munda (from
S$55). Credit cards are accepted. turquoise, the six bungalows are creatively simple dishes, such as local fish or chicken. S$395) or Seghe (from S$465) or both. From
Nello’s Villa (%60446; r without bathroom S$165-200) designed with a mix of blond-wood and dark- Sometimes it’s open for dinner. Gizo you can also fly to the Shortland Islands
‘Villa’ is a pompous description for a simple wood materials, the views of the ocean and Fatboys (% 66346 Gizo, 60095 Mbabanga island; and Choiseul.
house with ordinary rooms, but it’s a safe Kolombangara will take your breath away, mains S$45-120; hlunch & dinner) What a sensa-
bet for thrifty divers (it’s almost next door the beach is attractive, the meals are tasty tional setting! The dining room is on a pier Boat
to Dive Gizo, p271). Cheapest rooms have and the whole place is genuinely eco-friendly. that hovers over the turquoise waters of The MV Pelican Express (%28104 in Honiara) and MV
shared bathrooms. The wood-panelled din- So, what’s wrong with this delightful retreat? Vonavona Lagoon. Feast on anything from Solomon Express (%28064 in Honiara) are an excellent
ing room upstairs wouldn’t be out of place Nothing, but the atmosphere is a bit staid fish ’n’ chips to crayfish or chicken salad tor- alternative to flying. The 12-hour HoniaraGizo
in Scandinavia. and the owner, Hans Mergozzi, had plans to tilla, that’s if you can take your gaze off the trip costs S$380 (S$420, 1st-class upstairs seat-
Rekona Moamoa Lodge (%60368; r S$180-350) sell the property at the time of research, so extraordinary view. There are billiard tables, ing). MV Pelican Express leaves Honiara’s main
Another budget option, with OK rooms. It things might change anytime soon. Check DVD screens and a reading library. After wharf at 7am on Sunday, returning on Monday;
was quite crowded when we visited; the three while you’re there. Wi-fi. your meal, rent snorkelling gear (S$50) and MV Solomon Express leaves Honiara on Friday
houses were occupied by the prison guards oFatboys (%60095, 66346 in Gizo; www.fat swim over sandy shallows that extend onto and returns on Sunday.
and their families, whose houses were washed boysgizo.com; r S$750-850) Look at the homepage on Kennedy Island. Fatboys is only accessible Go West Tours (%62180; Agnes Lodge, Munda p265)
away by the tsunami. It should be back to the website; there’s no photoshopping tricks – by boat from Gizo; take the daily shuttle at runs a shuttle boat connecting Gizo to Munda
normal when you read this. The dearer rooms it’s truly like this. This oh-so-mellow resort 11am (S$50 one-way). It’s best to reserve, via Noro (S$140, two hours, three weekly).
have private bathrooms. is all about epicurean indulgences: relax in but not mandatory.
Nagua Resthouse (%60012; s without bathroom your tastefully designed bungalow (they blend Nuzu Nuzu Restaurant (% 60199; Gizo Hotel, Around Gizo
S$110, r S$330-440) A short (uphill) walk from tropical hardwoods, traditional leaf and high- Middenway Rd; mains S$90-135; hbreakfast, lunch & The main road out of Gizo skirts the shore
town, this family-run guesthouse features quality furniture), enjoy a sundowner on your dinner) This is the most atmospheric spot to to Saeraghi at the island’s northwestern end.
plain, functional but well-scrubbed rooms private terrace, snorkel over sensational reefs dine. The breezy open-air dining room is suit- You’ll cross Titiana and Pailongge, which were
ὄὄὄὄὄ
274 MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d 275
0 30 km
HIKING IN KOLOMBANGARA
MALAITA PROVINCE 0 20 miles
ὄὄ
ὄ
To Ndai (55 km); To Sikaiana Atoll (212km)
Growing weary of water activities? Consider climbing up to the crater’s rim on Kolombangara (Map Ontong Java Atoll (330km) Maana'oba I
Mbasakana I Haleta
p264). It’s an exhilarating two-day/one-night hike. You depart from Iriri village, on the western Fulifo'oe
Sisolo
side of the island, where you arrange guides and porters (avoid Saturday, as it’s a Seventh- Malu‘u
Kwalo'ai I
Mbita'ama
Day Adventist village) and pay kastom fees. The first section follows a logging road. You then
continue walking up through the thickly wooded forest to a clearing called Professor’s Camp, Sulione
Scotland I
Foula
where you sleep overnight. The next morning, be ready for an early start to reach the top be- Sisifiu Lau Lagoon
ὄὄὄ
Sulofoloa
fore the clouds set in. The scenery is surreal, trees are covered in moss; as one hiker told us, it
feels like you’re entering the set of Lord of the Rings. From the summit, views over Vonavona
Manu Pt Manu
Lagoon and the crater are mesmerising. Take note that it’s a strenuous walk, so you’ll need to
be fit. Dive Gizo (p271) can arrange logistics (about S$1000 per person, including transfers from SOUTH
Gwaunaru'u Airfield Nunulafa
Gizo). Fiu PACIFIC
River Atori Leli I
Auki
OCEAN
ὄ
Riba Cave
Langa Langa Ngongosila I
Kwaibala
severely hit by the 2007 tsunami. Saeraghi has arrange excursions to Simbo, Ranongga and Lagoon Waterfall Uru Harbour
lovely beaches. Kolombangara islands. Laulasi I
Serah's Lagoon Atoifi
Sinalanggu Harbour
Hideaway
Busu I Sinalanggu
Bina
ISLANDS AROUND GHIZO Alite I Malaita I
MALAITA PROVINCE
Mbuma
Olomburi
A perfect cone-shaped volcano that rises
I
to 1770m, Kolombangara looms majestically
n
ὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ
Maoa
Welcome to a secretive and fascinating
d
on the horizon, due east of Ghizo Island. Afutara
Manawai Harbour
i
It’s a two-day hike to the top and back (see Airfield
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
Su‘u
s
above). It rises from a 1km-wide coastal plain is yet to take off in this quiet province that Anuta Paina I
p
through flat-topped ridges and increasingly sees only a small stream of adventure travel- Ai'ura I
e
steep escarpments to the rugged crater rim lers. In the main destinations (Auki, Malu’u
n
Kiu
Maasupa
of Mt Veve. Logging has been a major activ- and Langa Langa Lagoon) there’s enough
s
Rohinari
ὄὄὄ ὄὄ
infrastructure to travel safely on your own.
a
ity, with Ringgi being the main settlement, Wairokai
Raroi
b
on the south coast. WWII Japanese relics are Elsewhere it’s virtually uncharted territory. See Guadalcanal Map (pp250–1) l 'A
re
'A
Su‘u
Lagoon
e
scattered around the island. Vila Point was an The population is all Melanesian except Ruavatu Hunasi
re
La
important WWII Japanese base and you can for approximately 2000 Polynesians who
goo
Rua Sura I
S
still see guns in the bush. live on the faraway atolls of Ontong Java Haarumou
n
Aola t Malau I
Maramasike I
At Sepo island, a lovely retreat just 15 min- and Sikaiana. Rere
Nudha I r
a Maka Hugnoli
utes from Gizo, in a beautiful traditional Mbulo
i Apio Mapo Harbour
Guadalcanal GUADALCANAL t
house (entirely rebuilt after the 2007 tsunami), MALAITA ISLAND PROVINCE Rockera
Weihii
is Oravae Cottage (%66621, 66619; naomibaea@gmail Easily reached from Guadalcanal, Malaita is Cape Hartig
Kaoka Cape Zele'e
.com; cottage incl 3 meals S$1000). a hauntingly beautiful island with narrow
Definitely worth a visit is Simbo island for coastal plains, secluded bays and a rugged
its megapode hatcheries and its volcano that highland interior that rises to 1303m at Mt Malaitan people have long migrated to enormous natural beauty sound like the
can easily be climbed. There’s also a sulphur- Kolovrat. As well as a host of natural fea- other parts of the Solomons, particularly to things you’re looking for, you’ve come to
covered crater lake. tures, Malaita has an equally fascinating eth- Guadalcanal. Even today, in the post-tension the right place.
Mountainous Vella Lavella is dominated by nic heritage. It’s both an adventure island era, Malaitan people dominate Honiara and
the dormant volcano Mt Tambisala and it is and a stronghold of ancient Melanesian tra- are over-represented in Solomons’ business, GETTING THERE & AWAY
noted for its bird life. ditions and rich cultures. Malaitans are said politics and power. It was resentment towards The Solomon Airlines (% 40163; Auki; h 8am-
Unfortunately the reefs off Ranongga, to cling more tenaciously to their customs these successes and incursions that led to the noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat, 2-5pm Sun) has
which were once ranked among the most than other Solomon Islanders, and their ethnic tensions of the late 1990s (see p249). flights from Honiara to Auki (S$437, once
spectacular in the province, were uplifted varied cultural life has fascinated many an- Unlike in Guadalcanal and the Western to twice, daily). It also flies to Atoifi (S$500,
during the tsunami in 2007 and lost much thropologists; no doubt it will cast its spell Province, which are endowed with lodgings twice weekly).
of their appeal. on you too. Some Malaitans from the central specifically geared towards foreigners, de- On Friday MV Pelican Express (%28104 in
and eastern parts of the island still worship velopment of tourism is still in its infancy. Honiara, 38165 in Malaita Island) runs from Honiara
GETTING THERE & AWAY ancestral spirits. The artificial islands in the There’s not even a dive centre (sniff!). If to Auki (S$160) and returns on Saturday. MV
The islands around Ghizo have no regu- Langa Langa and Lau Lagoons are another your idea of a great holiday includes fully- Solomon Express (%28064 in Honiara) runs from
lar boat services. Your best bet is to find a distinctive feature of Malaitan life, and the fledged resorts, shops, restaurants and Honiara to Auki (S$160) on Tuesday, and
shared ride at Gizo market. Expect to pay tradition of shell-money making is omni- animation programmes, you may leave dis- onwards to Afio near Malaita’s southern tip
from S$40 to S$60. Dive Gizo (p271) can present in Langa Langa Lagoon. appointed. But if real Melanesian life and (S$220), returning on Wednesday.
276 MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels MA L A I TA P R O V I N C E • • M a l a i t a I s l a n d 277
GETTING AROUND major currencies and travellers cheques. Kwaibala River (S$20); from there, 25 min-
Auki’s airfield is 10km from town. A ride into There’s also a little post office (h8am-noon & utes’ walk will bring you to the falls. Niagara- ARTIFICIAL ISLANDS
town costs S$10 on the Solomon Airlines bus 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri). Get online at Telekom (per hr S$48; like thundering falls they ain’t; expect modest One of Malaita’s features is the large
that meets every flight. h8.30am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri). cascades with a few pools where you can take number of artificial islands, particularly
From Auki, there’s a daily bus service to a bracing dip. in Langa Langa and Lau Lagoons. Some
Malu’u (S$50) to the north and daily trucks to SIGHTS You’ll need a guide to visit Riba Cave and of these islands date from the 1550s and
Atori across the island (S$40 to S$60). To get Auki is more a place to experience than a suc- Kwaibala Waterfall, which are on private new ones are built each year. Stones and
to Langa Langa Lagoon (for Serah’s Lagoon cession of tourist sights, but there’s actually land and difficult to find. Contact Silas Diutee dead corals from the lagoons are piled on a
Hideaway, p278) from Auki, you can either a smattering of natural sights outside town Malai (%40389), a freelance guide who charges sand bar or reef, then sand is spread around,
take a taxi (S$200), as there’s a gravel road, or that will keep you entertained. One definite S$200 for Riba Cave, S$200 for Kwaibala houses are built and coconut palms are
charter a boat (S$300). For all other places, must-see is the friendly fishing village of Waterfall and S$100 for Osi Lake. Make sure planted. The islands serve a dual purpose:
you’ll have to charter boats to hop between Lilisiana, about 1.5km from the centre. With that kastom fees are included in the prices protection from head-hunters and freedom
coastal villages. If you’re lucky, you’ll find its traditional-style houses raised on stilts over he quotes. He can also arrange cross-island from mosquitoes. The largest islands exceed
shared rides. the shore, it’s photogenic to boot. Lilisiana’s treks and ‘river drifting’ on a tyre down the 1 sq km in size and can be very crowded;
peaceful beach (off Map p276) is a narrow, Fiu River. some are surrounded by a coral wall. Most,
Auki long, golden sand spit beside coral shallows. however, are tiny.
Curled around a wonderfully shaped bay It’s immediately to the north of the village and SLEEPING & EATING
and surrounded by jungle-clad hills, laid- is the closest one to Auki. Beside the beach is Auki Motel (%40014; fax 40059; Loboi Ave; r S$110-440;
back Auki is a delight to approach by sea. Osi Lake (off Map p276). With its murky water, a) There are three good reasons to stay in but the dishes are fresh and copious. The
Otherwise Auki is a nondescript little port it’s not really a place to don your swimming this little number: it has the best facilities poached fish in coconut cream sauce does a
town, with a few low-slung buildings that kit and get wet, but it’s a nature-lover’s para- in town (which is not saying a lot, given the good job of satisfying your hungry tummy.
aren’t going to capture many hearts on their dise, home to colonies of seabirds. You might lack of competition), bathrooms are in good The vaguely barn-like surrounds ooze a
own. Luckily the sea lapping its shores and be asked to pay a kastom fee of S$25. nick and it features a range of rooms to suit ramshackle charm.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
houses on stilts offer something to please the An hour’s walk east of Auki is Riba Cave (off all budgets. Oh, and it’s central. Downstairs Two new lodging options will be opera-
eyes. Wandering its quiet streets, you wouldn’t Map p276; S$25), but you can make it shorter by rooms are a tad cramped but have private tional by the time you read this book, which
guess it’s the Solomons’ third-largest town; taking a taxi (S$20) then walk the final stretch bathrooms and shared air-con (the air-con will be a small guesthouse beside Rarasu
everything moves slowly except at the lively (about 20 minutes) down to the entrance. unit is in the corridor). Pity about the flimsy Restaurant and a 20-room motel owned by
market and the bustling wharf, at the town’s It’s a haunting cave, with stalagmites, several mattresses in the cheaper, three-bed rooms MP Charles Dausabea, tucked away in the
southern end. large subterranean chambers and an under- upstairs (our backs still ache!), but you’ll sur- hills overlooking the bay. Both places were still
ground river. Caveat: it’s very slippery. Take vive if you pile up two mattresses. The menu building sites when we passed through.
INFORMATION a powerful torch (flashlight) and wear sturdy at the restaurant (mains S$30 to S$45; open
An ANZ (%40160; off Loboi Ave; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) walking shoes. breakfast, lunch and dinner) varies accord- Langa Langa Lagoon
with an ATM (Visa and MasterCard) and a If you need to refresh yourself, nothing ing to what’s available, but usually includes Scene: Langa Langa Lagoon at dusk. Close up:
Bank South Pacific (%40484; off Loboi Ave; h8.30am- can beat Kwaibala Waterfall (off Map p276), fish fillet, chilli squid, chicken drumsticks you’re sipping a glass of bush lime on your
3pm Mon-Fri) are in the town centre and change about 3km from the centre. Take a taxi to the and ice creams. And let’s not forget the private terrace at Serah’s Lagoon Hideaway
hefty breakfasts. No alcohol is allowed on (p278), while a small fleet of traditional ca-
AUKI 0 400 m the premises. noes is gliding past on the calm waters just in
0 0.2 miles
Golden Dragon Motel (%40113, 40166; Loboi Ave; front of your bungalow. Soundtrack: haunt-
To Airfield To Riba Cave
A B C D r without bathroom S$143, r S$210-320; a) This isn’t ingly beautiful chants resonate from nearby
Rd
(10km)
INFORMATION
Rd
Power
Station
sweetheart, but the bare-bones rooms will This is undisputedly one of Malaita’s high-
la
ANZ.......................................1 C2
ita
do for a night’s kip. The dearer rooms have lights. Extending from 7km to 32km south of
La
ree
To Kwaibala Waterfall
Telekom................................4 C2 air-con and private bathrooms. It’s upstairs Auki, the lagoon is famous for its artificial
r
nT
e C
Trailhead (1km)
La
tto
above some stores; if no-one’s around ask at islands, particularly Laulasi, Alite and Busu.
ita
u
Co
SLEEPING
af
Sik
k
Loboi
Auki Lodge............................5
Auki Motel.............................6
C2
B1
Molou the Auki Store opposite.
6
Auki Lodge (%40079; Batabu Rd; s/d S$336/400; traditional activities, especially shell-money
Ave
EATING 3 Provincial
Government Kw
Rarasu Restaurant..................9 C2 aib
Ma
Court Offices
House
ala what you get. Think uninspired architec- perience is occasional dynamite fishing in
ve
River
asin
7
the lagoon.
sA
a Rulu
iscu
Pde
Solomon Airlines..................(see 1)
2 lackadaisical service. One proviso: if you expect Bora Bora-esque
Hib
Fisheries
la
Development
Rarasu Restaurant (%40280; off Maasina Rulu Pde; lagoons, you’ll leave disappointed. Waters
a
8
aib
Centre Auki
Market 9
are more chocolate than bright turquoise,
Kw
Central & Eastern Malaita Island Geologically they are rocky, uplifted-
GO TO THE KWAIO, YOUNG MAN There’s a road across the mountainous in- coral atolls.
Ready for a culture shock? Consider visiting the traditional ‘bush’ Kwaio, who live in eastern-central terior to the east coast around Atori that is This province is largely untouristy, but
Malaita’s mountainous interior. This area is very seldom visited by Westerners and the 1000 Kwaio washed out in the midyear wet season. The it has a few solid accommodation options.
people who live in the mountains near Atoifi and Sinalanggu have rejected the modern world route begins near Dala, and its most scenic Infrastructure was pretty poor when we vis-
in favour of the traditional life and religion of their ancestors. These Kwaio, as opposed to the spot is at Nunulafa, where it crosses over the ited (there was not even a bank) but moder-
Christian ‘coastal’ Kwaio, believe the ancestral spirits are omnipresent, and they practise magic Auluta Gorge. nity is slowly rearing its head. Mobile phones
and sorcery. Unmarried girls and women go naked and smoke pipes, while married women wear From Atori, you can take a dinghy to Atoifi and an ATM should have made their mark
minute T-pieces. This is not your average ‘cultural experience’; you do have to come prepared to and Sinalanggu, the main centres for Kwaio during the lifetime of this book. Eastern
avoid cultural faux pas with potentially serious consequences. people who have left the bush and have em- Rennell has been a World Heritagelisted
We met Ronnie Butala, a ‘modern Kwaio’ (he worked in New Zealand as an environmentalist braced Christianity. Sinalanggu is the main site since 1998 but, despite the locals’ hopes,
for a few years) who can organise two- to three-day guided trips to meet the bush Kwaio. ‘I only launching pad for visits to the traditional the listing hasn’t brought flocks of travellers
take a limited number of guests to limit our impact on these communities. I suggest you arrive Kwaio people (see opposite). to its famous Lake Te’Nggano.
in Auki, from where we take a truck to Atori. Then we take a boat to Sinalanggu and overnight
there. The next day we hike up in the mountains for about three hours to the first Kwaio village. RENNELL
You’ll feel you’ve stumbled onto an alternative universe. There are strict rules: never laugh; never
snap photographs without consent; always urinate at designated places; women must be entirely
RENNELL & BELLONA Rennell is a Shangri-la for eco-tourists. At 130
sq km, Lake Te’Nggano, in the southeast, is the
naked when entering a Kwaio village and are not accepted if they have their period; toilet paper
is forbidden. Things can turn nasty if you infringe a tambu. Anyway, you can’t turn up alone.
PROVINCE South Pacific’s largest expanse of freshwater
and feels like an untouched paradise. The lake
I employ a team of knowledgeable porters and interpreters. If you’re lucky, you might attend What a change. A mere one-hour flight is the old lagoon floor and the tall cliffs that
from Honiara will transport you to yet an- surround it are the old reef. Its western end
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
impressive rituals, such as the turning of the dead or the sacrifice of pigs. Everyday we move to
another village, because I don’t want to overburden the Kwaio. If you want to make gifts, bring other world. Life in this region is so differ- has 200-odd coral islets and swamps. Four vil-
lighters, knifes, razor blades or flashlights.’ ent from that in the rest of the Solomons lages lie along the shore, including Te’Nggano,
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
One thing is sure: a visit to the Kwaio is a life-altering experience. ‘I remember Westerners that you could easily feel you’re in another the subprovincial headquarters. It’s famous
crying after this trip; they said it was so overwhelming. They even ended up questioning their country. Both islands are Polynesian out- for its abundant bird and marine life, includ-
values, the meaning of life’, adds Ronnie with a smile. liers, sharing similar languages and cultures. ing tilapia, giant eels and sea snakes.
Wanna question your own way of life? Contact Ronnie Butala (%81745; [email protected];
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Auki) or Destination Solomons Travels & Tours (p253). Ronnie Butala charges S$400 per person RENNELL ISLAND 0
0
20 km
12 miles
(per day), including guides and food. Transfers from Auki cost extra (S$50 for the AukiAtori
truck ride, S$2000 return for the boat ride between Atori and Sinalanggu). Give a minimum of
To Bellona (24km)
two weeks’ notice.
Mangga Utu
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
the laid-back tempo. And the magical setting. Northern Malaita Island
And the supremely relaxing Serah’s Lagoon The ‘north road’ leaves Auki and follows Senggena Tupuake Rennell Airfield
(Tinggoa Airport)
Kaanggua
Hideaway (%40344, 72344; s incl 3 meals S$100-160). the coast from Sisifiu to Sisolo, providing Tinggoa
Tahanuku SOLOMON SEA
Moreno Guesthouse
This aptly named retreat is run with grace lovely sea views. Long stretches of white- Nuku Ma'anu Nggonggona
Hatangua
and flair by Serah Kei. There’s one bungalow sand beach line the shore. The welcoming Niupilesi
on stilts embellished with a few feminine subprovincial headquarters of Malu’u is an
touches as well as a four-room house. The obvious stop between Auki (four hours over
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
ablution block is tiptop with, joy of joys, 82km of passable road) and Lau Lagoon Matangi
High Cliffs Lavanggu
a proper shower and flush toilets. Sunset? at the ‘head road’ two hours away. You
Abataihe
Quick, get your camera ready and enjoy can spend the night at Malu’u Lodge (s S$100), Mangga One
Kanggava
your own lagoon show from your private which has fan-cooled rooms, a kitchen and Tebaitahe
Kiakoe
Lakeside Lodge
terrace, complete with traditional dug-out shared facilities. Vanggu Pt
Neitasi Lodge
canoes passing by the silhouette of coconut And now, Lau Lagoon. This 35km-long Satan Pt Niupani
Tengano Lodge
ὄὄὄὄὄὄὄ
Tuhungganggo
palms. The meals are memorable, too; make lagoon contains more than 60 artificial Te‘Nggano Lake
sure you try the ‘mangrove fruit soup’. Your islands. There’s no formal accommodation, Tuangonga
Te'Nggano Octopus Cave
host can also arrange lagoon tours as well but you can arrange your stay in a village; Bay Hutuna Bird I
(Sanginganggito I)
as cultural shows, such as grass-skirt mak- ask the chief.
ing, a demonstration of shell-money mak- For the fit and the adventurous, various Lower Cliffs
ing and leaf sawing (from S$200). There are customised trekking options in northern
also a selection of intricate carvings on sale. Malaita can be arranged through Makario
Call Serah and she will arrange transfers Tagini (%22911, 28089 in Honiara, 75227 in Auki) who
from Auki. works as lawyer in Honiara.
© Lonely Planet Publications
280 R E N N E L L & B E L L O N A P R O V I N C E • • R e n n e l l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R E N N E L L & B E L L O N A P R O V I N C E • • B e l l o n a 281
an email address (via an internet connection S$400. Rennell airfield is at Tinggoa, to the
PUSHING THE FRONTIERS: THE REST OF THE SOLOMONS at nearby Niupani village). This guesthouse west of the island. Moreno Guesthouse (op-
If, after visiting Malaita, Guadalcanal, Central and Western Provinces, you still feel the urge for more has been upgraded and features a three-room posite) acts as the Solomon Airlines agent.
off-the-beaten-track adventures, and if time is really no object, consider travelling to the other house with shared facilities (flush toilets and
provinces, where travellers are an absolute rarity. You’ll need plenty of DIY spirit to surmount the clean shower). The strong point is the lush Getting Around
logistical challenges (erratic flights or boats, basic accommodation, no telephones etc). property. Canoe transfers from the head road Getting to Lake Te’Nggano is a bit of a chore.
(15 minutes) are free. The 50km of poor road between the Tinggoa
One of the least-visited provinces in the Solomons, Choiseul has two airfields, on Taro island
Kiakoe Lakeside Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; s incl 3 meals airport and the lake runs through rainforest
and in Kagau.
S$290) Located on the northern shore, which and takes at least three hours by 4WD (longer
Like Choiseul, the Shortland Islands are culturally closer to Bougainville in Papua New is a short boat ride away from the head road, by truck).
Guinea, which lies only 9km to the north. There’s one airstrip, on Ballalae, infrequently serv- this ‘lodge’ is the best organised of the lot. The only ‘regular’ transfer service is or-
iced by Solomon Airlines from Gizo. Digs are in a house perched on a hillside; ganised by the people from Kiakoe Lakeside
An untouched world located only one hour from Honiara is Makira-Ulawa. Kirakira is the it’s a shame that room 1 is the only one with Lodge (left), who meet most flights to collect
main gateway. You’ll find basic accommodation in Kirakira, Star Harbour and Santa Ana. a lake view (other rooms are at the back). cargo, and charge S$100 if it’s a shared ride
There’s sensational surfing off Star Harbour. The island is famous for its Spear Fighting There are clean, flush toilets and a functional and S$500 if it’s charter.
Festival, which is held late May on Santa Catalina island. shower. Two bungalows were being con-
Fall off the end of the earth in Temotu Province, which lies at the Solomons’ most easterly
structed when we visited, and they looked BELLONA
promising. The owner, Lence, is MP for the Small yet densely populated Bellona has a lush
point. Lata, the provincial capital, on Santa Cruz island, is the main launching pad for outlying
provincial assembly and a bon viveur. If you interior and is encircled by forest-covered
islands, such as Reef Islands, Utupua and Vanikoro. Lata has a few guesthouses, including
want variety in your meals, ask for lobster cliffs rising 30m to 70m. The cliffs are mostly
Luelta Resort and Fresh Point Resthouse, and the province’s only airfield. One recommended
(excellent), coconut crab (good), cormorant easy to climb unlike Rennell’s cliffs.
guesthouse on Pigeon Island (Reef Islands), Ngarando Faraway Lodge (contact Ross Hep-
(barely acceptable) and, for the daring, flying Bellona is pockmarked with caves; many of
worth at Tour Solomons in Honiara, p253) is well worth the three-hour boat ride from Lata.
fox (no comment). Canoe transfers can be them the scene of island fables.
SOLOMON ISLANDS
SOLOMON ISLANDS
A province that is a castaway’s dream come true is Isabel, especially if you can make it to arranged from the head road (S$80 one-way, You can stay at Suani Resthouse (Tangakitonga; s incl
the Arnarvon Islands, the province’s diamond tiara, off the northwestern tip of Isabel. It’s five minutes). 3 meals S$170). On Bellona’s east coast, Aotaha Cave
a conservation area and one of the world’s largest nesting grounds for the hawksbill turtle. Resort (s incl 3 meals S$210) comes recommended for
There’s phenomenal snorkelling too. There’s one basic guesthouse run by the rangers. Trips Getting There & Away its enchanting setting. It’s set around caves at
to Arnarvon Islands can be arranged through Nature Conservancy (%20940, 28095 in Honiara; From Honiara, Solomon Airlines (p257) flies the cliffbase, and some of the beds are in the
[email protected]; www.nature.org), whose office is across the road from the police head- to Rennell (S$630, twice weekly) via Bellona cave itself! Both places can arrange bicycle hire
quarters. The gateways to Isabel are Buala and Suavanao, both serviced by boats and flights or vice versa. The BellonaRennell sector costs and hiking and snorkelling trips.
from Honiara.
Guesthouses at Lake Te’Nggano can or- Tinggoa, 50km west of Lake Te’Nggano, is if
ganise excursions on the lake. Regular stops you have an early-morning flight departure.
include Octopus Cave, a spooky cave on the Lake excursions can be arranged through your
north shore, and a visit to Bird island, where guesthouse. Plan on S$400 for two persons,
hundreds of cormorants, boobies and frig- fuel included.
ates nest year-round. It’s a fascinating sight. Nuku Ma’anu (Tinggoa; r without bathroom S$150)
Your guide might well climb up a tree to This place is based on Tinggoa’s outskirts.
catch a cormorant or two for your dinner There are five simple rooms in the main house
(not for the squeamish). Lake Te’Nggano is and two stand-alone, dinky bungalows. Meals
not really a suitable place to get wet. There’s cost S$110 per day.
no beach, and only Brits could don their Moreno Guesthouse (Tinggoa; r without bathrooms
swimming suits and bathe in the milky, S$150) This is a clean place with 17 bare
pea-green waters. The only place that’s suit- rooms and it’s located near the airstrip.
able for a dip is Octopus Cave, which has The meals (S$130 per day) are good.
limpid waters. Neitasi Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; s incl 3 meals S$160)
Just beside the ‘head road’, at the ‘entrance’ of
Sleeping & Eating the lake. A rustic yet very atmospheric house © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
The island has a few simple resthouses which on stilts, entirely built from natural materials,
can be booked through Solomon Islands directly over the water. Has lots of ramshackle restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
Visitors Bureau in Honiara (p249). Don’t ex- charm – perfect for re-enacting Swiss Family only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
pect airs and graces; it’s a bit rough around the Robinson fantasies. everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
edges, but it can be fun. Base yourself at Lake Tengano Lodge (Lake Te’Nggano; [email protected]
Te’Nggano. The only good reason to stay in .au; s incl 3 meals S$190) There’s no mistake: it has the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications
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Directory PRACTICALITIES
Newspapers
PNG has two daily English-language newspapers: the Post Courier (www.postcourier.com
GST), and all prices in this book are inclusive .pg), majority owned by Rupert Murdoch’s News Corp, and National (www.thenational.com
CONTENTS of tax. In PNG, the VAT situation is more am- .pg), owned by Malaysian logging giant Rimbunan Hijau. Both are critical and quite aggressive
biguous for cheaper lodges and guesthouses – where issues such as corruption and waste are concerned, however many people are criti-
Accommodation 282 those that turnover less than K100,000 a year
Activities 285 cal about the National’s coverage of PNG’s controversial logging industry. Both can be read
aren’t required to collect the VAT so they on the web and they’re available in most provincial capitals. The Wantok daily newspaper is
Business Hours 290 won’t add it to your bill. More importantly,
Children 290 written entirely in Tok Pisin; reading it will help familiarise you with the local language. The
if you book and pay for your PNG accommo- weekend Sunday Chronicle, PNG’s only locally-owned newspaper, was launched in 2006.
Climate Charts 290 dation in advance from outside the country it
Customs Regulations 291 is VAT-exempt – a good way to save money In the Solomons, the English-language Solomon Star (www.solomonstarnews.com) is pub-
Dangers & Annoyances 291 on your accommodation costs. lished five days a week in Honiara. It’s delivered around the country on the Solomon Airlines
Discount Cards 293 Booking ahead is also a good idea, especially flights and thus may be a day or two (or more) out of date by the time it’s available in the
Embassies & Consulates 293 for moderately priced hotels and guesthouses provinces. The Solomons also has two twice-weekly newspapers – the National Express and
Festivals & Events 294 and especially at festival times, when every- the new Island Sun which was launched in November 2006. The Solomon Times Online (www
Food 294 thing is packed. Apart from festival weekends .solomontimes.com) was launched in April 2007, and is a web-only news service.
Gay & Lesbian Travellers 294 (see p294) and national holidays (see p295),
Holidays 295 tourists make up such a small percentage of Radio
Insurance 295 hotel guests that there is no clearly defined PNG has two government-funded national radio stations: Karai on the AM band and Kalang
Internet Access 295 high or low season. on FM. National commercial stations include NauFM (Now) broadcasting in English and
Legal Matters 295 Don’t expect to save money by bargaining. YumiFM (You-me) broadcasting 24 hours in Tok Pisin. BBC World Service can be heard in Port
Maps 296 You can ask about weekend rates, which can Moresby on 106.7FM. There are numerous local radio stations mostly devoted to local pop
Money 296 offer some savings. In the bigger corporate- music.
Photography 297 style hotels it might be worthwhile flashing In the Solomons, national broadcaster SIBC can be heard on MW (1035kHz) and SW
Post 298 your frequent-flyer card – it can’t hurt. Hotels (5020kHz). The Australian Broadcasting Corporation (ABC) is at 630kHz MW.
Shopping 298 will often give free transfers between the air-
Solo Travellers 299 Short-wave frequencies for Radio Australia include 6080kHz or 7240kHz. For BBC see www
port; especially useful where there’s no public
Telephone & Fax 300 .bbc.co.uk/worldservice/schedules. Shortwave reception is often poor in PNG.
transport. Breakfast is usually included in the
Time 301 room tariff, and when all meals are included, For a full list of stations and frequencies in PNG and the Solomon Islands, see http://radio
Toilets 301 ‘all-inclusive’ or ‘including three meals’ is stationworld.com.
Tourist Information 301 shown in the accommodation listings.
Travellers with Disabilities 301 TV
Visas 302 Camping EmTV is the only local station in PNG. Most of its programming comes from Australia’s Nine
Volunteering 303 Camping is not a traditional part of Network. The Solomons launched its first national TV service in 2006 – One News broadcasts
Women Travellers 304 Melanesian culture. Travellers are welcomed 7am to 8am and 9pm to 10pm in English in Honiara only (for now). In both countries most
Work 305 into whatever dwelling is available, and re- places with ‘cable’ (actually satellite) can pick up CNN and BBC World plus a range of stations
fusing such hospitality in favour of pitching from rural Australia.
ACCOMMODATION a tent can be quite offensive. All land has a
Papua New Guinea offers poor value in terms traditional owner somewhere and you would Electricity
of accommodation. When compared with the need to seek permission to camp – finding the Electricity, when it exists and is flowing, is 240V, AC 50Hz and uses Australasian-style plugs.
cheap-as-chips places of nearby Indonesia landowner could take a while, and chances
and the rest of Southeast Asia, or even with are that when you do they’ll offer you room Weights & Measures
the developed-world prices of neighbouring in a hut anyway. So unless you’re planning
Both PNG and the Solomons use the metric system. On the Sepik River fuel for motor-canoes
Australia, it makes grim reading. The Solomon on doing some seriously off-the-beaten-track
is bought by the gallon and trade boats in some parts fuel up by the gallon too.
Islands, thankfully, is not as bad. trekking, don’t bother bringing a tent.
Overall the quality is reasonable but in
most towns options are limited. Where there Hotels & Resorts Discounts for singles (where they exist) are Top-end places are fewer and prices can get
is enough accommodation to warrant it, we’ve The vast majority of hotels fall into the usually small. You can expect a room with up as high as K1000 for a plush suite. You’ll
divided our reviews into budget, midrange midrange and top-end categories. In the bathroom, cable TV, phone and air-con, and usually have access to a swimming pool, the
and top-end categories (see boxed text, p284). midrange category, prices and quality some will include one or more of fridge, tea- internet or a business centre, and the usual
In both PNG and the Solomons there is a 10% vary greatly, ranging from about K150 to and coffee-making facilities, breakfast and range of pricey bars and restaurants. Service
value added tax (VAT, but sometimes called K400 a night for a twin or double in PNG. free transport. is usually pretty good, as you’d expect.
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sources of information – best described as opportunity to stay in a village. Village accom- part of the natural environment. (Let’s face
A BED FOR THE NIGHT Bible-handlers rather than bashers. The clien- modation comes in all manner of guises. It it, there’s precious little shopping and very
Prices for a twin or double room fall into tele can be interesting too, as it’s often made might be a basic haus win (open-air structure) few galleries and museums!) Offshore you
the following categories: up of mission workers, NGOs, aid workers in the Solomons; a tiny thatched stilt house can angle for monster-fish, be the first to surf
and students who’ve often been to some pretty in the Trobriand Islands; or one of the simple remote breaks and enjoy what some say is the
Papua New Guinea interesting and remote parts of PNG and the village guesthouses on the Huon Gulf coast, most spectacular diving and snorkelling on the
Budget Up to K150. Solomons and have some great stories to tell. or around Tufi, Milne Bay, the Sepik or New planet. Onshore, PNG’s trekking is both chal-
Midrange K150 to K400. There are also a number of places run by Ireland. It might not be a village house at all, lenging and rewarding, the caving is extreme
Top end More than K400. women’s associations. Men are usually al- but a spare room in a school, space in a police and the bird-watching attracts hard-core or-
lowed to stay, but some YWCA establish- station, in a church house or just about any nithologists from all around the globe.
Solomon Islands ments only take women. building you see. Just ask.
Budget Up to S$200. These types of lodgings are found in many Village accommodation can be pretty rough Bird-Watching
Midrange S$200 to S$400. towns and cities, and in rural areas missions but it’s the cheapest way to see the country, and PNG and the Solomons are home to thou-
Top end More than S$400. can be the only official accommodation in most villages you’ll find a local who’ll put sands of species of flora and fauna and see-
around. Prices vary, but a bed (or sometimes you up. You must pay, and K40 to K50 is a fair ing some of it, especially the rich bird life, is
a whole room) will usually be between about amount to offer a family providing you a roof becoming easier as local guides learn what
There are a few wonderfully indulgent K70 and K130 per night with meals provided and kai (food). But ask locals before you head birders want.
resorts scattered around. Rather than being in the communal dining room. Among the out of town what might be appropriate com- Birders report that in a three-week trip
dedicated solely to sand and sun they usually missions, the Lutheran guesthouses are pensation – a live kakaruk (chicken) might be you’ll see about 300 species. A small number
boast some other attraction: diving, fishing, consistently good. the go. But a live kakaruk can be a hassle to lug of local guides are well-worth seeking out.
trekking and watching wildlife, or a combina- around, so maybe a sack of rice, or some bully You can plan and execute your trip with these
tion. Some of the better resorts: Rental Accommodation beef, salt, tea or sugar might be better. In some guys for a fraction of the cost of a tour. Samuel
Madang Resort Hotel p143. Large numbers of expats come and go from instances a carton of beer is good currency, but Kepuknai (p206) is the man in remote Western
Tawali Resort (Alotau%641 1167; Tawali%641 0922; PNG and the Solomon Islands and there is no alcohol can be a very sensitive issue in some Province, while former hunter Daniel Wakra
www.tawali.com) In Milne Bay Province; see p114. shortage of long-term rental accommodation. communities, so proceed with caution. of Paradise Adventure Tours (p319) knows the
Tufi Dive Resort (Port Moresby %323 3462; Tufi %275 Much of it is attached to midrange and, more In some villages couples might be asked to sites around Port Moresby very well. Paul Arut
3200; www.tufidive.com) In Oro Province; see p108. often, top-end hotels, but there are some less sleep in separate buildings to observe local is the expert at Kumul Lodge (p169) in Enga
Uepi Island Resort In the Solomon Islands; see p267. expensive alternatives. The formula is simple custom. Most rural villages have a men’s Province. Steven Warili from Warili Lodge
Walindi Plantation Resort In West New Britain; see p227. enough: provide large walls, plenty of security house and these spaces often function as (p174) in Tari is a passionate bird-watcher,
guards and the facilities of a hotel, and peo- domiciles for elderly or widowed men and lovely fella and reputable guide.
There are also several resorts operated by ple will come. Weekly, monthly and yearly young male initiates, as resthouses for male In the Highlands and the Sepik several
Trans Niugini Tours (www.pngtours.com) includ- rates are very attractive when compared with guests and as places where men practise ‘the lodges, such as Ambua Lodge (p174) at
ing Ambua Lodge (p174) in Tari, which is hotel prices. Check www.pngbd.com/forum/f74s arts’. Men’s houses are tambu (forbidden) to Tari, have programmes specifically for bird-
regularly patronised by David Attenborough. .html on the Papua New Guinea Business women – female travellers will be enthusi- watchers. You’ll find similar tours on the
Rates are usually quoted in Australian or US Directory. Alternatively, contact some of the astically ‘adopted’ by the village women and Sepik River, around Madang and at Bensbach
dollars and are often more than A$200 per volunteering organisations in PNG and the quickly engaged with the muliebre affairs of in Western Province.
person, including meals. Solomon Island (see p303). Or you could try the community. In some villages there’s a haus Most of the main tour operators (see p311
Wherever you head, don’t forget to ask the diplomatic representatives of your country kiap – a village house set aside for travellers and p319) have bird-watching trips.
about specials, and corporate and weekend in Port Moresby or Honiara – both cities have to stay in. These were originally erected for Also look at these specialist companies:
rates. large, gated enclaves of expat workers. accommodating visiting kiaps (government Eagle Eye Tours (www.eagle-eye.com) US-based group
patrol officers) and some remain today. You with one or two tours per year.
Missions, Hostels & Guesthouses Village Accommodation might be asked to stay in one of these, but Field Guides (www.fieldguides.com) Texas-based
The cheapest accommodation options are usu- One of the great experiences of travelling it’s more enjoyable to stay with a family in a company that does specialist birding tours of PNG.
ally the region’s many mission guesthouses, in PNG and the Solomons is taking the traditional house than sleeping by yourself. Sicklebill Safaris (www.cassowary-house.com.au)
community-run hostels and private guest- High schools are often quite isolated and Regional birding expert Phil Gregory’s company.
houses. These can be good value for money. all have boarding quarters, so you could get
Mission guesthouses are mainly for church BOOK YOUR STAY ONLINE lucky and find a spare bed. You might have Some books and websites on birds (you can
types, but the lodgings are generally clean, For more accommodation reviews and rec- to sing for your supper or at the very least do find the books at www.abe books.com):
homely and open to travellers. Quality var- ommendations by Lonely Planet authors, a lot of talking! Police stations around the Birds of New Guinea By Bruce M Beehler et al.
ies and the cheaper ones have no air-con and check out the online booking service at country almost always allow you to stay, for www.birdingpal.com Find a local birder for the latest
share bathrooms. And you’ll have to put up lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true, insider no charge, if they have a spare room. information.
with a few rules – drinking and smoking are lowdown on the best places to stay. Reviews www.camacdonald.com/birding/papapua
discouraged (or banned) and you can expect are thorough and independent. Best of all, ACTIVITIES newguineahtm.htm Excellent links to trip reports,
to hear grace before meals. But the managers you can book online. Travel to PNG and the Solomons Islands is lodges, and other PNG-specific birding sites.
are usually pretty interesting people and great all about being outdoors in the elements and www.papuabirdclub.com Birding in West Papua.
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Boating options see p315. With time, ingenuity and Other locations worth heading for include owners, you could easily get yourself into
Few roads. Lots of rivers. More islands. It’s a luck you can travel anywhere by boat. Alotau, Kavieng, Kimbe, Lorengau, Madang, trouble. It’s obviously a lot easier to arrange
combination that makes boating in one form With a dense scattering of beautiful islands, Rabaul and Wuvulu Island. In most of these your fishing via a tour company or lodge.
or another almost inevitable in PNG and the PNG is a great place for sea kayaking. Milne places, dive operators offer courses, equip- Some lodges and specialist fishing charters
Solomons. And many of the forms qualify as Bay Magic Tours (p111; www.toursmilnebay-png.com/) in ment and tours. worth looking at:
far more of an experience than simply a mode Alotau has four kayaks that were originally The best time to dive varies depending on Baia Sportfishing Lodge (p227; www.baiasportfishing
of transport from one place to the next. The paddled from Cairns. Trans Niugini Tours (www the location. As a rough guide, Milne Bay is .com) In Open Bay, West New Britain
one ingredient you need for almost every .pngtours.com) offers guided sea-kayaking tours best from October to March, when the winds Bensbach Wildlife Lodge (p208; www.pngtours.com
boat trip is time, not just to reach the jour- around Madang on the north coast of PNG. are lightest. Head to Kimbe and Kavieng from /lodge5.html) On the Bensbach River near the border of
ney’s end, but most often to get the journey Southern Sea Ventures (www.southernseaventures) of- April to September, though it’s possible to Indonesian Papua, Western Province
underway! Local dinghies and motor-canoes fers an amazing 11-day guided sea-kayaking dive these two most of the year. Laelae Charters (p253; www.lalae.com.sb) Moored at
seem to take an eternity to get their cargo voyage from Rabaul to Alotau. Apart from There are several good live-aboard dive Point Cruz Yacht Club in Honiara, Solomon Islands
loaded up – cartons of beer, margarine, rice these, it’s BYO everything, and be sure to take boats available for charter in PNG and these Lindenhafen Fishing Lodge (www.lindenhafen.com)
and Kundu crackers – and then, of course, the plenty of food and water. allow you to enjoy a range of locations dur- In West New Britain
boat’s pilot must be found (who’ll be asleep ing a single trip. Prices vary, but at several Zipolo Habu Resort (p265; www.zipolohabu.com) In
under a tree somewhere) and his cousin’s Caving hundred US dollars a day none of them is Vonavona Lagoon, Western Province, Solomon Islands
sister who’s catching a ride… Nothing will Caves in the limestone regions of the Southern cheap. The years of diving experience on
test your patience like catching a local boat – Highlands may well be the deepest in the board, however, is usually worth it. For a Most major towns have fishing clubs affiliated
don’t leave home without it! Prices vary world, but actually getting into them requires listing of live-aboard dive boats, dive resorts with the Game Fishing Association of Papua New
wildly depending on the level of comfort you something approaching a full-scale expedi- and good diving operators see the Diving Guinea (www.gfa.com.pg). The excellent website
require (if comfort is even an option). For a tion. The Mamo Kananda in the Muller Range chapter, p55. has lots of information on events and compe-
guide, see p315. (near Lake Kopiago) is reputed to be one of the titions including some major fishing-charter
longest caves in the world at 54.8km. There are Fishing companies not listed here.
RIVER JOURNEYS also caves around Bougainville (Benua Cave Fishing, and particularly sportfishing in PNG’s
PNG has some of the world’s largest and is thought to be the world’s biggest cavern at many river estuaries, is one of the country’s Surfing
most spectacular rivers. The Sepik is often 4.5 million cubic metres), Pomio (East New major tourist drawcards. There are dozens There’s something very cool about surfing in
compared to the Amazon and Congo Rivers, Britain Province) and Manus Province. of virtually untouched rivers brimming with PNG and the Solomon Islands. The tropical
while the Sepik Basin is an artistic and cul- While there are no tour operators offering fish, including species such as barramundi, water is warm and crystal clear, the breaks are
tural treasure house. Local people use rivers caving as an activity, caving expeditions from mangrove jack and the legendary Papuan remote and you can be among the first people
(including the Sepik, the Ramu, the Fly and the UK, USA and France have been exploring black bass. And off the coasts of PNG and to surf them. There’s absolutely no surf-rage,
many rivers that flow into the Gulf of Papua) PNG caves in recent years, including one for the Solomons there’s no shortage of big fish no surf-nazis and no stoner-guys bongin’ on
as highways. On these rivers, there is often the National Geographic Society in January either. Yellowfin tuna, mackerel, sailfish and in the Kombi in the carpark. How cool is that?
an assortment of craft, ranging from dugout 2006 which explored the remote river caves of blue, black and striped marlin are just some of Gnarly dude, way cool, wicked and fully sick!
canoes to tramp steamers. the New Britain’s Nakanai Mountains. monster fish hooked by die-hard anglers that It’s possible to surf year-round in one part
For travellers there are a number of pos- come here from all over the world. of PNG or another, and in the Solomons
sibilities. If you’re hard core (insane) you Diving & Snorkelling You can’t just get in a boat and go. too. The southern coast of the PNG main-
could buy your own canoe from a villager and PNG and the Solomons offer some of the most Everything and every piece of PNG is owned land gets swell from June to September
spend weeks paddling along the Sepik fending interesting, exciting and challenging under- by someone, including streams and reefs, and when Hula Beach (p90), 100km east of Port
off natnats (mosquitoes), baking under the water activities on earth. Many divers rate unless you have permission from traditional Moresby, gets 1m to 2m waves. Big swells
relentless midday sun and getting nowhere the region more highly than the Red Sea, the
fast. People on the riverbanks would probably Caribbean or the Great Barrier Reef.
laugh at you, calling you longlong (crazy). Those who like diving on wrecks will find BUSH BOARDS
Or you could pay your way travelling from literally dozens of sunken ships – either as a For years the local surfers of Vanimo have been making their own surfboards, not from foam
village to village using PMV boats (unsched- result of WWII or the maze of spectacular and epoxy resin like the orthodox method, but by hacking them out of giant exposed tree roots
uled, intervillage, motorised, dugout canoes). coral reefs. And the reefs are not only for with machetes. The right root of a specific tree has a gentle curve in it to form the nose-end of
But most people charter a motor-canoe and divers – excellent visibility and an abundance the surfboard. It’s shaped, sanded and left to dry out for a week before it’s varnished. It’s not
guide/driver on the river, or take a tour boat, of fish make them perfect for snorkellers, too, just that Lido villagers can’t afford commercially made boards, there are no surf shops in PNG.
including luxury cruise ships (see p315). who can have much of the fun for a fraction Over the years visiting surfers had donated a few boards to the surf club, but there were never
of the cost. enough to go around.
SEA JOURNEYS PNG is the muck-diving capital of the world In February 2007 Mark Davis did a report on Lido village’s Sunset Surf Club for the Dateline
If you don’t own a cruising yacht (and when and Milne Bay is at its epicentre. Anyone who current affairs programme on the Australian SBS TV network. SBS started a campaign where
you see PNG’s islands and harbours you’ll can swim can witness the extravagant coral, people could donate boards – new and used – to their Sydney offices for the Vanimo surfers.
wish you did), there are four alternatives: use fantastic tropical fish and the detritus of his- The response was amazing. Air Niugini flew 40 boards to Vanimo free of charge, and, of course,
the regular coastal shipping; take a tour; char- tory side by side underneath the Samarai piers there was a follow-up story on SBS.
ter a boat; or crew a yacht. For more on these (see p115); a truly unforgettable experience.
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hit Guadalcanal’s remote Weathercoast in of the ecologically sound Nusa Island Retreat
the Solomons, but we don’t know anyone (www.nusaislandretreat.com.pg) off Kavieng (see p232) JUNGLE TREKKING TIPS
who’s surfed there. and World Surfaris (www.worldsurfaris.com). Trekking through the jungle tracks of PNG can be a highlight of any visit. But to the uninitiated each
The best waves are during the monsoon In the Solomons, the same October-to-April step can become a new experience in discomfort. The following tips will help limit the pain.
season from late October to April along the monsoon swell brings excellent waves near
Practise climbing before you leave home, as it’s the climbs and ascents that hurt most.
north coast and in the islands. Beach, point- Gizo (p63) at Pailongge, Titiana and Makuti
and plenty of reef-breaks are out there, and Island, as well as several breaks near Zipolo On overnight trips bring two sets of clothing: one for hiking and one for wearing at night. Keep
reaching them is becoming easier. You’ll only Habu Resort on Lola Island (p265). At Maravagi your night clothes in a plastic bag, as everything in your bag will be wet from rain or sweat.
need one good all-round board, and a vest to Resort (p261) on Mangalonga Island in the In dense vegetation wear long pants with your sturdy boots. Otherwise, shorts and a T-shirt
keep the sun off. Nggelas there are several breaks, and there are will do.
In PNG the best places to head are Kavieng said to be waves at Poro on Santa Isabel and
Carry talcum power and/or Lanoline to nip chaffing in the bud; or better, wear no underwear
(p229) and the western end of New Ireland, Tawarogha and Star Harbour at Makira.
at all.
Wewak (p179) on the northern coast of Contact the Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau
the PNG mainland and, the pick of the lot, (%22442; www.visitsolomons.com.sb) for more infor- Carry and drink plenty of water. Oral rehydration salts are a must, especially if you sweat a lot.
Vanimo (p185) on the north coast near the mation on surfing in the Solomons. Have your glasses treated with an anti-fog solution before you leave.
border with Indonesian Papua. At Vanimo Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environment – or take
you will soon become acquainted with the Trekking a guide to do that for you.
laid-back guys of the Sunset Surf Club at PNG is a trekking paradise. The country is
Lido village (see boxed text, p287), who’ll crisscrossed with tracks, many of which have
be happy to show their new wantoks (clans- been used for centuries by the local popula- A number of tour companies offer trekking. you leave home to make sure it has the maps
people) the best breaks. The reef-break off tion, and it is rarely more than a day’s walk Organised treks are not cheap but are worth you want; see also p296.
Ahus Island (p239), north of Manus, is re- between villages. Some of the walks are tough considering if you have limited time. For tour Even with a map, it’s best to employ a
puted to host a 3.6m-high swell and be a life- but, especially on the coast, it’s possible to companies see p311 and p319 . guide. Maps can’t speak local languages,
and-death event. There is accommodation avoid the steep ascents and descents charac- The Kokoda Track (p96) is the most and they don’t know shortcuts. Guides
of varying standards available at or near all teristic of PNG. popular trek in PNG. Mt Wilhelm (p162) (hopefully) do.
these places, and if you find a wave you just In the bush your expenses plummet. Your is climbed reasonably frequently, and some
can’t bear to leave you can always stay in a major costs will be paying for guides, where people then walk from there down to Madang Wildlife-Watching
nearby village. they are necessary, or buying petrol for out- (p163). The Highlands are full of interesting Among PNG’s exotic animal species is the
The reef-breaks tend to be a long paddle boards on rivers. Expect to pay a guide K50 per treks of varying durations. Among the more tree-kangaroo, which is probably the best-
from the shore, but if you have access to a day. You’ll also have to provide or pay for their notable is Lake Kopiago to Oksapmin (p174). known of PNG’s mammal species but can be
boat you can find plenty of waves. These reef- food. The best way to find a reliable guide is to Apart from the Kokoda Track, the Black Cat very difficult to spot in the wild. There are
breaks aren’t for the inexperienced. ask around the local expat population – they Track (p137) and the Bulldog Track (p137) also countless insect and butterfly species.
The Surf Association of Papua New Guinea (%326 will usually be able to put you in touch with will appeal to those with a military or histori- The famous Queen Alexandra’s Birdwing but-
0884 in Port Moresby; www.surfingpapuanewguinea.org.pg) someone who knows someone. All of the tour cal bent…and a wide masochistic streak. terfly, for example, is only around at certain
has a decent website with links to surfing tours. companies can provide guides or at least infor- In the Solomons intrepid types can organ- times of the year. And your chances of seeing
Other websites worth looking at include that mation on where you might procure one. ise some amazing walks on Guadalcanal to exotic stick insects are very slim without a
the Weathercoast, on Malaita around the ar- good guide. For the best places to go wildlife
tificial islands of Lau Lagoon and the Kwaio watching, see p53.
SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR TREKKING region of the eastern coast, and around Vella Most of the main tour operators have
Before embarking on a trek, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable Lavella or New Georgia Islands in Western wildlife-watching trips.
experience: Province. You will need to take a guide and Also look at these specialist companies:
Pay any fees and possess any permits required by local authorities.
be well prepared. Eagle Eye Tours (www.eagle-eye.com) US-based group
The website of the Solomon Islands Visitors with one or two tours per year.
Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable walking for a sustained period. Bureau (www.visitsolomons.com.sb) has a link to an Eco-Tourism Melanesia (www.em.com.pg)
Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions along your excellent PDF document (written in March
intended route. 2007) called ‘Treks and Adventures in the Windsurfing
Be aware of local laws, regulations and etiquette about wildlife and the environment.
Solomon Islands’. It has comprehensive The lagoons of PNG and the Solomons are
notes on trekking, and some information ideal for windsurfing. There are many shel-
Trek only in regions, and on tracks, within your realm of experience. on surfing. tered harbours and strong winds between
Be aware that weather conditions and terrain vary significantly from one region, or even from June and August. One of the best and most
one track, to another. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any track. These differences MAPS accessible places to head is Hula Beach (p90),
influence the way trekkers dress and the equipment they carry. If you want topographic maps you’re strongly about 100km southeast of Port Moresby,
Ask before you set out about the environmental characteristics that can affect your trek and advised to contact the National Mapping Bureau though don’t head there alone. If you don’t
how local, experienced trekkers deal with these considerations. (NMB; %327 6223; www.lands.gov.pg/Services/National have your own board, ask around the yacht
_Mapping_Bureau; Melanesian Way, Waigani) well before clubs and resorts.
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BUSINESS HOURS As you’d expect in a country where bare areas of northern Australia, the wet is short dead animal. Kundu drums would make fine
Opening and closing times can be erratic, but breasts are everywhere, breast-feeding in pub- and sharp and followed by long, dry months. souvenirs – they’re light, robust and relatively
you can rely on most businesses closing at lic is no problem. A limited range of nap- Elsewhere, rainfall can vary from a little over compact. Ah, but that’s lizard skin stretched
noon on Saturday and remaining closed all day pies and baby formula is available in larger 2000mm, in Rabaul or Goroka for example, across the drum-head, and that’s a no-no with
Sunday. In this book, hours will accord with towns. There are no daycare centres catering to over 4500mm in Lae. In extreme rainfall Australian quarantine authorities. Bukaware
the following lists unless stated otherwise. to travellers, though larger hotels can usually areas, such as West New Britain Province or itself is fine, but small bugs love to hide in
recommend a babysitter. the northern areas of the Gulf and Western the weaving, so spray your basket thoroughly
Papua New Guinea For more on family travel, read Lonely Provinces, the annual rainfall can average with fly spray and give it a good thump on the
Banks (h8.45am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8.45am-4pm Fri) Planet’s Travel with Children. more than 8m a year! ground before you board your flight out of
Government Offices (h7.45am-12.30pm & 1.45- The island provinces and the Solomons PNG or the Solomons.
4.06pm Mon-Fri) CLIMATE CHARTS have a more steady climate, with the ‘dry’ Anything created before 1960, including
Post Offices (h8am-4pm Mon-Fri & 8-11.30am Sat) The wet and dry seasons in PNG are not season from December to late May having traditional stone tools, certain shell valu-
Private Businesses (h8am-4.30pm or 5pm Mon-Fri, as black and white as elsewhere in Asia. milder temperatures (about 21°C to 28°C dur- ables and any item incorporating human re-
8am-noon Sat) In practice, for most places the wet just ing the day) and infrequent, light rainfall. mains or bird of paradise plumes, cannot be
Restaurants (hlunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm or means it is more likely to rain, the dry that The heat and humidity rise during the ‘wet’ exported. If you are uncertain of what your
7pm-10pm or whenever the last diner leaves) it’s less likely. Temperatures rarely get too monsoon season, from late May to December. purchases are made of, get them checked at
Shops (h9am-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat) hot but the humidity is always high and can However, other parts of the Solomons are the National Museum in Port Moresby (p75)
be oppressing. affected by their own microclimates, such as or Honiara (p250).
Solomon Islands Rainfall is generally heavy but varies Honiara (with the heaviest rainfall occurring If anything you are carrying is deemed to
Banks (h8.30am or 9am-3pm Mon-Fri) greatly. In dry, often dusty Port Moresby, the between December and April and fairly sta- be a quarantine risk you’ll have to pay to have
Government Offices (h8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) annual rainfall is about 1000mm and, like ble temperatures year-round). Cyclones can it irradiated, a process that can take several
Post Offices (h9am-5pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat) blow between January and April. For more days. This can be done by Australian customs
Private Businesses (h9am-4.30pm or 5pm Mon-Fri, Average information, see p15. officials, but if you have a same-day onward
HONIARA 55m (180ft) Max/Min
8am-noon Sat) connecting flight you can kiss your artefacts
Restaurants (hlunch 11.30am-2.30pm, dinner 6pm or
°C
40
Temp °F
104
in
24
Rainfall mm
600
CUSTOMS REGULATIONS goodbye. Places such as PNG Arts (p81) in
7pm-10pm or whenever the last diner leaves) Visitors to both PNG and the Solomons are Port Moresby or the Melanesian Arts Gallery
Shops (h9am-5pm or 6pm Mon-Fri & 9am-noon Sat) allowed to import 200 cigarettes (or 50 ci- (p133) in Lae can arrange (for a fee) fumiga-
30 86 16 400
gars or 250g of tobacco), 2L of alcohol and tion and certification, but Australian customs
CHILDREN perfume not exceeding 1L or 1000g, duty- officials won’t take any notice of these docu-
People who bring their pikininis (children)
20 68 8 200 free. In addition, visitors to PNG can bring ments and will want to either confiscate or
to PNG or the Solomons are often over- in new goods to the value of K1000 with- fumigate your goods to their own exacting
whelmed by the response of local people,
10
J F MAM J J A S O N D
32 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 out paying customs duty. Exceed this K1000 standards – better to save your money! Post
who will spoil them mercilessly given half a threshold, however, and things get ugly – the is a good alternative. Be sure to choose your
chance. Child-rearing in Melanesian culture customs duty plus GST will make your shiny, artefacts carefully so that you don’t fall foul of
Average
is a communal village activity and just when LAE 8m (25ft) Max/Min new video camera that you bought duty-free the Australian Customs Service and feature in
you’re starting to fret about your missing °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm at Brisbane airport much more expensive a border-security reality-TV programme.
two-year-old he/she will turn up being car-
40 104 24 600
than you anticipated. One shifty way to get
ried on the hip of a six-year-old girl. Kids are around this is to ditch the packaging before DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
quickly adopted by village children – the art 30 86 16 400 you board the PNG-bound plane and act as It’s very difficult to get the balance right
of child’s play transcends all language barri- if the goods are not new when you disembark about dangers of travelling in PNG and the
ers – and women coo over pale-skinned kids 20 68 8 200 at Jackson’s Airport. Solomons. If you believed the hype then
(and especially those with blonde hair!). Since most people fly into and out of PNG you’d never go and you’d never understand
10
J F MAM J J A S O N D
32 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 and the Solomons from Australia, the cus- that Melanesians are by nature among the
Practicalities toms and quarantine restrictions that apply most gentle, hospitable and generous peo-
There are few really child-friendly sights – in Australia are particularly pertinent. Most ple in the world. While urban drift has un-
Average
no theme parks or carousels – but the prac- PORT MORESBY 35m (115ft) Max/Min travellers will want to bring home some sou- doubtedly caused ‘law and order’ issues in
ticalities of travelling with children aren’t too °C Temp °F in Rainfall mm venirs from PNG or the Solomons – a bilum, both PNG and the Solomons, it’s not like
bad. Take a child into PNG or the Solomons 40 104 24 600
Sepik mask or Trobriands carving perhaps. the Wild West where gun-law rules and
and people are falling over themselves to Problems can arise when you go through stepping outside is to put your life in danger.
help you. Top-end and midrange hotels 30 86 16 400 to Australian customs with anything con- That’s just the perception perpetuated by a
should have cots, and most restaurants taining animal parts, such as skin, teeth or lazy Australian media, which provides this
have high chairs. You’ll be lucky, however, 20 68 8 200 feathers. As a rule, polished wood won’t cause region’s information to international media.
to find dedicated nappy-changing facilities much alarm, but anything with bark on it The Australian media doesn’t report on any
anywhere, and forget about safety seats in 10 32 0 0 will need to be treated, or confiscated. The feel-good, warm-and-fuzzy stories from this
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
taxis – working safety belts are a novelty. same goes for feathers or any other bits of part of the world.
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DISCOUNT CARDS France (Map p75; %321 5550; 12th fl, Pacific Pl,
DANGER, WILL ROBINSON… Air Niugini offers a 25% discount to students Champion Pde, Town)
For the latest travel warnings and advice you can log onto the following (overly cautious) under 26 who have a valid International Indonesia Consulate (%857 1371; fax 857 1373;
websites: Student Identity Card (ISIC) and university Vanimo); Embassy (Map p77; %325 3544; fax 325 0535;
Australian Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.dfat.gov.au/travel) ID. This discount applies to the full fare only, Kiroki St, Waigani)
Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs & International Trade (www.voyage.gc.ca/dest/index and with Air Niugini’s new excursion fares Japan (Map p75; %321 1800; 1st fl, Cuthbertson House,
.asp) it may well be cheaper to use one of those – Cuthbertson St, Town)
German Federal Foreign Office (www.auswaertiges-amt.de/www/de/laender infos/reise_warnung see p306. New Zealand (Map p75; %325 9444; nzhcpom@
_html) The very occasional sight in PNG offers dg.com.pg; Magani Cres, Waigani)
Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.mofa.go.jp/anzen) student discounts – Port Moresby’s Botanical Solomon Islands (Map p75; %323 4333; Unit 3, GB
Netherlands Ministry of Foreign Affairs (www.minbuza.nl/default.asp?CMS _ITEM=MBZ Gardens is an example. House, Kunai St, Hohola)
458731) UK (Map p75; %325 1677, emergency 683 1627; www
New Zealand Ministry of Foreign Affairs & Trade (www.mft.govt.nz/travel) EMBASSIES & CONSULATES .britishhighcommission.gov.uk/papuanewguinea; Kiroki
UK Foreign & Commonwealth Office (www.fco.gov.uk/travel) St, Waigani)
Papua New Guinea USA (Map p77; %321 1455; ConsularPortMoresby@
USA Department of State/Bureau of Consular Affairs (www.travel.state.gov) A round of belt-tightening a few years
state.gov; Douglas St, Town)
back saw many of PNG’s foreign missions
If you use your common sense, especially those same expats: so how many times have closed. Diplomatic representation abroad
in larger towns, the chance of encountering you been robbed? include the following: Solomon Islands
the notorious raskols (bandits) is small. In It’s pretty simple – in the main areas where SOLOMON ISLANDS EMBASSIES &
all the years we’ve been travelling in PNG travellers are likely to go in the daytime with PAPUA NEW GUINEAN EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
and the Solomons we’ve never been mugged people around you are highly unlikely to CONSULATES Solomon Islands diplomatic representation
or robbed. That said, when things do go encounter any trouble. The mantra is com- Australia Canberra (%02-6273 3322; www.png includes the following:
wrong in PNG and, to a much lesser extent, mon sense. Fortunately, common sense is not canberra.org; 39-41 Forster Cres, Yarralumla); Brisbane Australia High Commission, Canberra (%02-6282 7030;
in the Solomons, it can be pretty frightening. rocket science, but here are some tips: (%07-3221 7915; [email protected]; Level 11, Suite http://solomon.emb.gov.au; JAA Bldg, 19 Napier Close,
Violent crime is not unusual, but the victims Don’t flaunt your wealth – wear unre- 8, 320 Adelaide St, Brisbane, Qld 4001) Deakin, NSW, 2600); Melbourne (%03-8531 1000; fax 03-
are rarely tourists. markable clothes and keep your cam- Belgium (%02-779 0609; [email protected]; 8531 1955; 1 Southbank Blvd, Melbourne, Victoria 3006);
So what does this mean for the traveller? era hidden. Carry a bilum rather than a Av de Tervuren 430, 1150 Brussels) Sydney (%02-9361 5866; fax 02-9361 5066; Level 5, 376
Most importantly, don’t be paranoid. We’ve daypack. Fiji (%330 4244; [email protected]; PO Box 2447, Victoria Rd, Darlinghurst, NSW, 2010)
heard from travellers who’ve had bad experi- Always keep at least K50 ‘raskol money’ Government Bldgs, Suva) EU (%02-732 7085; [email protected]; Ave
ences, but the vast majority of feedback (in- in your pocket to appease any would-be Indonesia Jakarta (%021-725 1218; [email protected] Edourd 17, 1040 Brussels, Belgium)
cluding from lone women) is overwhelmingly thief. Hide the rest of your money in a .id; 6th fl, Panin Bank Centre, Jalan Jendral Sudirman 1, Japan (%03-5275 0515; fax 222-5959 5960; 16-15
positive. Of course, what’s dangerous to one money belt or your shoe. Jakarta); Jayapura (%967-531250; kundudjj@jayapura Kirakawa-cho, Z-Chome, Shyoda-ku, Tokyo)
person is everyday to another, and each trav- Speak to people rather than being aloof. .wasantara.net.id; Jalan Serui No 8, Jayapura) USA (%212-599 6192; 800 Second Ave, Suite 8008,
eller will decide for themselves what is safe Be especially careful on the fortnightly Japan (%03-3454 7801; fax 03-3454 7275; Mita Kokusai New York)
and what is not. Those who have travelled Friday pay nights when things can get Bldg, 3rd fl, 313, 4-28 Mita 1-Chome, Minato-Ku, Tokyo)
to developing countries in the past probably pretty wild. Malaysia (%03-4257 5405; fax 03-4257 6203; 11 EMBASSIES & CONSULATES IN THE
won’t be overly concerned. But for inexperi- If you get held up, as in this situation Lingkunga Thant Ampang, Kuala Lumpur) SOLOMON ISLANDS
enced travellers the lack of structure and the anywhere, stay calm. Most robberies are New Zealand (%04-385 2474; [email protected]; All foreign embassies and consulates are in
number of unemployed standing idly around fairly unsophisticated affairs. 279 Willis St, Wellington) Honiara.
the cities can be intimidating. Philippines (%02-811 3465; [email protected]; Australia (%21561; fax 23691; Mud Alley St)
Bear in mind that everything is much Apart from crime, the main annoyance is the Corinthian Plaza, Paseo de Rozas Cnr, Makati) EU (%22765; [email protected]; City Centre Bldg,
more relaxed outside Port Moresby, Lae zillions of mosquitoes. Solomon Islands (%20561; fax 20562; PO Box 1109, Mendana Ave)
and Mt Hagen. Tribal fighting is still com- Honiara) France & Germany (%22588; fax 23887; Tradco office,
mon deep in the Highlands, and while this Scams UK (%0207-930 0922; 14 Waterloo Pl, London SW1R 4AR) City Centre Bldg, Mendana Ave)
can make things unpredictable it rarely em- There aren’t many actual scams in PNG or USA (%202-745 3680; www.pngembassy.org; Suite 805, Japan (%22953; fax 21006; NPF Bldg)
broils outsiders. In villages people quickly the Solomons. However, in the few PNG 1779 Massachusetts Ave, NW, Washington DC 20036) New Zealand (%21502/21503; fax 223777; nzhicom@
get to know you and you rapidly lose the cities that have taxis there’s a chance you’ll solomon.com.sb; City Centre Bldg, Mendana Ave)
anonymity that makes a stranger a target. encounter one of the developing world’s EMBASSIES & CONSULATES IN PAPUA Papua New Guinea (%20561; fax 20562; Anthony
Expats will tell you not to ride the buses and favourite cons: ‘Sorry, no change’. If you’re NEW GUINEA Saru Bldg, Ashley St)
PMVs, but that’s just silly. They’ll regale you waving anything more than K10 or K20 All embassies are in Port Moresby. UK (%21705; [email protected]; Telekom House,
with stories of rape and pillage and plun- around, then it might not be a scam at all. Australia High Commission (Map p77; %325 9333; Mendana Ave)
der (even murder), but these tales are often But if you only need K5 or K7 in change, www.embassy.gov.au/pg.html; Godwit St, Waigani); USA Consular Agent (%23426, mobile 94731; fax
urban legends that can have very tenuous for example, they will almost certainly Honorary Consul (Map p75; %472 2466; Trukai Industries, 27429; [email protected]; BJS Agencies Limited,
connections to real events. It’s worth asking have it. Mataram St, Lae) Honiara)
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS Warwagira Festival (PNG) First two weeks of July. is quite palpable (unlike in Polynesia where country where an immediate assessment of
Most shows and festivals are held on week- Dukduks and tumbuans (masked forest spirits) come out of there are strong traditions of trans-genderism your problem is made.
ends, so the dates change from year to year, the sea from canoes at dawn to dance. At night, Baining and homosexuality). We’ve not seen any Check that the policy covers ambulances or
but usually only by a few days. Many smaller fire dancers perform. Takes place in Kokopo or in Rabaul. local women prepared to ‘fly the flag’ in an emergency flight (medivac) home.
singsings (celebratory festivals), however, are public, but there must be some around.
local affairs with no fixed yearly schedule, so August Any local ‘gay scene’ that exists is closeted INTERNET ACCESS
you’ll have to depend on word-of-mouth to International Orchid Spectacular (PNG) First week- and underground. PNG and the Solomons are two of the least
find them. And even some of the bigger events end in August. The grounds of Port Moresby’s Parliament Homosexuality is far from a topical issue in internet-aware countries around, though the
on the yearly social calendar sometimes move Haus come alive with thousands of orchids. Melanesian society. This is hardly surprising Solomons is at the forefront of an innova-
from month to month (just to keep us on our Mt Hagen Show (PNG) Late August. The first really big given that the churches have been reinforc- tive shortwave internet. Like pretty much all
toes!). Check www.pngtourism.com and www gathering of Highlands clans for the year. A spectacular event. ing the idea that homosexuality is morally infrastructure there is no internet outside the
.visitsolomons.com.sb for more precise dates. reprehensible for years. major cities and a few expensive hotels and
See also Holidays (opposite) for other dates September You’ll see many local people hold hands resorts. In more and more places if you’re
worth watching out for. National Garamut & Mambu Festival (PNG) Early as they walk down the street – women with carrying your own laptop you can get internet
September. Wewak hosts this colourful event of traditional women and men with men. But don’t mis- access with an RJ-45 cable (via a LAN con-
March music and dance. understand – this is simply an expression of nection) in a hotel. Honiara’s main Telekom
Ambunti Crocodile Festival (PNG) Cultural groups from Bargam Agricultural Show (PNG) First week of Septem- friendliness and affection that’s common and office even offers wi-fi by the hour, as do a few
the Sepik region perform to promote community tourism ber. Harvest celebrations on the coast north of Madang. quite natural in Melanesian societies. of the better hotels and trendy cafés in Port
and crocodile conservation. Goroka Show (PNG) Mid-September. This is the big Moresby, Honiara and Gizo. But even with
Highlands singsing and well worth adjusting your travel HOLIDAYS these concessions to the 21st century your
April plans around. A huge gathering of clans in traditional dress In addition to the national holidays listed experience of the information super highway
National Fishing Titles (PNG) First week of April. and bilas (finery). here, each province has its own provincial will likely be a frustrating one with mind-
Reelin’ in the big ones off Port Moresby. Hiri Moale Festival (PNG) Mid-September. This festival in government day (usually a Friday or Monday) numbingly slow connections and drop-outs.
Gogodala Canoe Festival (PNG) Late April. Balimo, on Port Moresby celebrates the huge Papuan trading canoes. and there is usually a singsing to mark the Broadband is finally being rolled out to some
the vast floodplains of the Aramia River in Western Prov- Kalam Culture Festival (PNG) Third week of Septem- occasion. Like anywhere, accommodation of the major towns.
ince, hosts this annual event with canoe races and feasting. ber. The festival at Simbai, a tiny Highlands outpost, is is harder to find during holiday times, par- Honiara has far more internet café termi-
a traditional event featuring male initiation rites, nose ticularly Christmas and Easter. The following nals than Port Moresby does, and seems a lit-
May piercing and bride-price payments. national holidays apply to both PNG and the tle further advanced in internet ideology. Port
Brisbane-to-Gizo Yacht Race (SI) Early May. This was Solomons unless otherwise stated. Moresby does not have the viral proliferation
cancelled for some years after the ethnic tensions but October New Year’s Day 1 January of internet cafés you’d expect for a city of its
resumed in 2006. Kundiawa Simbu Show (PNG) Early October. Traditional Easter March/April, variable dates. Includes Good Friday size, but slowly more are opening up.
Vakatepe Festival of the Sea (SI) Mid-May. Timed to singsing and agricultural show. and Easter Monday. In PNG, the one or two internet cafés in
coincide with the first boats arriving in Brisbane-to-Gizo Morobe Show (PNG) Late October. This, the final big National Remembrance Day 23 April (PNG only) each major town charge anything between
yacht race. singsing of the year, goes off in Lae. Queen’s Birthday Second Friday of June K15 to K40 per hour. All top-end hotels and
Spear-Fighting Festival (SI) New moon in May. A two- Solomon Islands Independence Day 7 July (SI only) a growing number of midrange places have a
day event on Santa Catalina Island in Makira Province. November PNG Independence Day 16 September (PNG only) computer you can use to get online.
Whit Monday (SI) Eighth Monday after Easter – May/ Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Festival (PNG) First week- Christmas Day 25 December In the Solomons, internet cafés (often just
June. Celebrated all over the Solomons with marching, end in November. A spectacular festival with sailing canoes Boxing Day 26 December a terminal in the local Telekom office) charge
dancing and singing. from the province and beyond racing to Alotau. about S$18 to S$30 per hour. The Solomons
INSURANCE has been at the forefront of an innovative
June FOOD Especially in PNG and the Solomons, where internet technology that digitally interprets
Tufi Cultural Show (PNG) Early June. Singsings, feasting For information on eating and eateries in help is often an expensive helicopter ride shortwave radio signals. The People First
and dancing. PNG and the Solomons, see p64. away, a travel insurance policy to cover theft, Network (www.peoplefirst.net.sb) provides text-only
Wahgi Cultural Show (PNG) Early June. The first of the loss and medical problems is essential. There internet connectivity. With a solar-powered
Highlands shows in the calendar year. GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS is a wide variety of policies available and travel laptop computer and a short-wave radio at-
Port Moresby Show (PNG) Mid-June. Traditional and It’s quiet noticeable that gay men in recent agents often know which is most suitable. tached to a modem the most remote parts
modern events. years have been more prepared to express Read the small print to check it covers po- of the Solomon Islands – some of the most
Gulf Mask Festival (PNG) Mid-June. Spectacular display of themselves. These days you do see effeminate tentially ‘dangerous activities’ such as diving isolated communities on the planet – can stay
traditional masks in Toare Village near Kerema. Melanesian men and while they may not be and trekking. connected to the whole world.
strident or provocative about it, there’s noth- You might prefer a policy that pays doctors
July ing ambiguous about their sexual orientation. or hospitals directly rather than you having to LEGAL MATTERS
National Mask Festival (PNG) Mid-July. Masks from all And that’s pretty gutsy – homosexuality is pay on the spot and claim later. If you have Visitors to PNG have little reason to fear trou-
over the country are displayed in Rabaul. illegal in both PNG and the Solomons, al- to claim later make sure you keep all docu- ble with police. The occasional after-dark road
Malagan Festival (PNG) Mid-July. A rare opportunity to though the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Talk mentation. Some policies ask you to call back block shouldn’t be a concern and aside from
see striking Malangan art displayed en masse in Kavieng. to Melanesian men and their homophobia (reverse charges) to a centre in your home that there’s no reason why you’ll be stopped.
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range in scale from 1:2000 through 1:50,000, ‘typical cash rate’ which is some increments hurt to give a child a kina for showing you
COMING OF AGE 1:100,000 and 1:250,000. They have the whole less attractive. that WWII relic.
For the record: country covered though they’re often out of
The legal voting age in PNG and the
stock, out of paper or out of date. Some of ATMs & Credit Cards SOLOMON ISLANDS
the provincial Lands and Survey departments PAPUA NEW GUINEA The local currency is the Solomon Islands’
Solomons is 18.
also sell these maps but the helpful office in Credit cards are accepted in most top-end and dollar (S$). As in PNG, be sure to have
You can drive legally at age 18 (to rent Port Moresby is your best bet. When reading many midrange hotels, and in a few restau- plenty of small notes for when you leave the
a car you must be 25). old maps be aware that villages in PNG and rants and stores in Port Moresby and other bigger towns.
Heterosexual sex is legal at age 16 in the Solomons tend to move around over the larger cities. Visa and MasterCard are the
PNG and 15 in the Solomons. years. If you are planning to walk the Kokoda favourites, with Amex, JCB and Diners Club International Transfers
Track, the NMB’s Longitudinal Cross Section not so widely accepted. Credit-card payments The easiest way to transfer money to PNG is
To legally buy alcohol you must be 18.
of the Kokoda Trail (1995) is very useful. It’s often incur an additional charge. by Western Union. For a list of Bank South
been reproduced many times and is available ATMs are fairly common in cities, but Pacific branches that are Western Union
If by chance you are, you’re unlikely to be at the Kokoda Track Authority (Map p77; %325 1887; only those at ANZ (www.anz.com/png/importantinfo agents, see www.bsp.com.pg/personal_bank
asked for a bribe and shouldn’t offer one, at [email protected], 1st fl, Brian Bell Plaza, /atmlocations.asp) and Westpac (www.westpac.com.au) ing/per_western_union.htm.
least not until you’ve refused several times Boroko; h8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri). branches allow you to withdraw cash against Western Union’s one money-exchange
and there seems to be no other option. Always Hema Maps publishes Solomon Islands your Visa or MasterCard. ANZ has many facility in the Solomons is a counter in the
be deferential. (1:1,200,000), and ordinance survey maps more ATMs than Westpac, and in our expe- Honiara post office (%24474; Mendana Ave; h8am-
Unfortunately, however, while most po- of the Solomons are available at Ministry of rience these machines are far more likely to noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-11.30am Sat).
lice are courteous enough (even friendly!) Lands & Housing offices; the Honiara branch issue cash. Both ANZ and Westpac machines
don’t expect them to do much about any (Map pp252-3; %21511) has most of them. are linked to the Cirrus, Maestro and Plus Taxes
crime perpetrated against you. For years po- Finally, the Ex Kiap website (www.exkiap.net/other networks, though it is dangerous to be rely- There is a 10% value added tax (VAT, and
lice have been out-numbered, out-gunned /png_maps/index_png_maps.htm) has maps covering ing solely on getting money this way. If the sometimes called GST) on top of most trans-
and out-motivated by gangs of raskols, and the whole country. machines are broken, head inside and you actions in both PNG and the Solomons. It’s
the number of crimes solved is piteously low. should be able to get a cash advance against worth asking your hotel whether this is in-
Police frustration is common, and don’t be MONEY your credit card over the counter. cluded in the quoted rate, as quite often it
surprised to hear of swift justice being ap- Perhaps appropriately for such a diverse Bank South Pacific (BSP) has plenty of is not.
plied when a raskol is caught. If you need the country, travelling in PNG requires a diverse ATMs, but they’re still not linked to interna-
police to go anywhere you might need to pay approach to money. Cash, credit cards and tional networks. Tipping
for their fuel. travellers cheques will all be useful, and it pays Tipping is not customary anywhere in PNG or
Travellers could attract unwanted attention not to put all your eggs in one basket. Credit SOLOMON ISLANDS the Solomons. The listed price is what you’ll
by buying marijuana, which has become much cards are increasingly accepted, but you don’t Major credit cards are accepted in larger ho- be expected to pay.
more prevalent in the last decade. The govern- need to go too far off the track before you’re tels and most restaurants and stores that see
ment takes its anti-drug stance very seriously, fully reliant on cash. tourists. There are ATMs at the ANZ and Travellers Cheques
and has even managed to convince much of Both the PNG kina and the Solomon Westpac banks in Honiara’s main strip, as You can change travellers cheques in every
the public that raskols do their thing because Islands dollar have seen a steady decline in well as Auki, Gizo and Noro. At the time of major town in PNG, although chances are
they have been whipped into a violent frenzy value against major currencies. But expect writing ANZ ATMs were being installed in it will take ages. It will cost a bit too, with all
by smoking too much weed! inflation to take prices of goods and services Tulagi, Munda, Kira Kira, Taro and Buala, the banks (in typical Australian-bank fash-
up to the same rate as the local currency falls. with Rennell next off the blocks. ion) applying hefty charges for changing your
MAPS Since almost everything is imported, the slide cheques. For the Solomons, use Visa, Amex
There are two maps of PNG that should be in the local currency just means that things Cash and Thomas Cook.
available to purchase online, if not necessarily cost more. PAPUA NEW GUINEA
at your local bookstore. Hema Maps’ Papua Traditional currencies, such as shell money PNG’s currency is the kina (kee-nah), which PHOTOGRAPHY
New Guinea (1:2,600,000) 2nd Edition (1992) and leaf money, are still occasionally used. is divided into 100 toea (toy-ah). Both are Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands
is the most common, and is readily available You’ll see women in the Trobriand Islands the names of traditional shell money and this are pretty close to a photographer’s nirvana.
in PNG as well. More recent is ITMB’s Papua carrying doba (leaf money), which is dried connection to traditional forms of wealth is The stunning natural colours and locations
New Guinea (1:2,000,000). This is probably banana leaves with patterns incised on them. emphasised on the notes, too. The K20 note are just the start, and shooting a cultural show
the pick of the two. See the Quick Reference (inside front features an illustration of that most valuable could end up a career highlight. You could
If you’re planning on trekking, or just want cover) for exchange rates. Oanda (www.oanda of village animals, the pig. Most banknotes easily burn dozens of rolls of film, or gigabytes
more detailed maps, you’re advised to contact .com/convert/classic), the online currency con- are plastic and look very similar to Australian worth of memory. Negative film (about K17
the National Mapping Bureau (NMB; %327 6223; www verter, is useful for calculating up-to-date banknotes – the colours are even the same. for a roll of 36 in PNG) is widely available
.lands.gov.pg/Services/National_Mapping_Bureau; Melanesian exchange rates, but be aware that you won’t In remote areas, having enough small bills but you’ll need to bring your own slide film.
Way, Waigani), order the maps you want and then get the Interbank rate with banks in PNG is important. People are cash-poor and won’t If you’re shooting digital it’s worth bring-
collect them from the office in Port Moresby or the Solomons. You’ll be selling your local have change for K50. You’ll need cash for ing some sort of portable storage device, as
when you arrive. The topographic maps currency for kina or Solomon dollars at the small purchases and PMV rides and it won’t you’ll have a hard time finding an internet café
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(or the like) where you can download images ting home, even if it takes quite a while. There
and burn to a CD. Also bring batteries, cables is poste restante in most post offices, though BIZARRE SOUVENIRS
and, most importantly, a cleaning kit and a the larger ones will be more reliable. An in- You can see it now… ’Gee Bill, that’s a mighty fine skull rack you’ve got there. Which village did
large, sturdy plastic bag big enough to hold ternational aerogram costs K2.60. Letters or that come from?’ The skull rack, fashionable in homes around the Gulf country as a convenient
all your gear when it starts pissing down with cards up to 50g cost K3.35 to Australia and and practical way to display the skulls of your ancestors and vanquished enemies, would definitely
rain. Silica gel sachets are handy for soaking the Pacific, K5.35 everywhere else; a 5kg pack- be a trendy addition to your interior décor back home. But they’re heavy and hard to find.
up excess moisture. age costs surface mail/airmail K135/158 to Perhaps you’d prefer a cassowary thigh-bone dagger, etched with traditional Sepik tribal mark-
Divers should consider giving themselves Australia, ranging up to K200/351 for other ings? But you know how it is these days with lethal weapons and carry-on luggage. A Solomons’
a series of uppercuts if they arrive without an countries. You might’ve been feeling impul- canoe prow with a traditional nguzunguzu carving? Big and unwieldy and hard to fit in your lug-
underwater camera, preferably with a light. sive and impetuous when you bought that gage. A traditional mask with real boar’s teeth and tusks? It would frighten small children.
Enough said. 20kg skull rack, but you’ll be thinking long No, we reckon you shouldn’t leave PNG without a koteka. Koteka are traditional penis gourds
Use higher ISO ratings on your digital and hard about the cost of posting it home – still worn by many Highland men. They’re light, readily available in most traditional artefact shops
still camera (or use faster film – ISO 400 or K290/313 to Australia, K540/585 to the UK and come in all manner of sizes, so if you’re buying one for personal use you can try a few on
greater) if you’ll be anywhere in the jungle, and USA, and K540/841 to most of the rest before deciding which to buy.
where it can be pretty dim. Photographing of the world. Allow at least three months for
dark-skinned people also requires some dif- surface mail to the USA or Europe.
ferent rules: a flash is almost an imperative, Note that there is no postal delivery in buying direct from the artist is usually cheaper we like to wrest back that element of surprise
otherwise the contrast with a light-coloured PNG, so everyone and every business has a and not only gives you a fuzzy feeling, but also and pay the seller the higher price! (What’s a
background can cause underexposure – black PO Box. Hence when you look in the phone a good story. few kina? The guy might be able to buy shoes
featureless faces. book all addresses are listed as PO Box some- See Customs Regulations, p291 for infor- for his kids.)
You’ll find people are generally happy to thing, rather than a street address. The same mation about getting PNG and Solomons Elsewhere in society, taxi drivers in PNG
be photographed, even going out of their way applies in the Solomons. artefacts through Australian customs. are used to haggling to a limited extent
to pose for you, particularly at singsings. But (though not in Honiara in the Solomons,
be careful nonetheless, and ask permission Solomon Islands Bargaining where they’re very honest indeed), and you
before shoving a camera in someone’s face, In the Solomons aerograms cost S$3. Letters There is no tradition of bargaining in could try your luck in hotels, but not in
especially around the markets of the bigger under 50g cost S$1.90 to Australia and New Melanesian culture so don’t expect to be able village accommodation.
cities – Port Moresby, Lae and Mt Hagen – as Zealand, S$2.60 to the USA and S$3 to to cut your costs much by haggling. Bargaining
people can get a little testy about this. It’s Europe. The Solomons postal system is reli- is, however, starting to creep into some aspects SOLO TRAVELLERS
better to buy something at a market and then able but slow – a letter takes about two weeks of society, souvenir shopping being one. It’s Travelling alone in PNG and the Solomons
ask the vendor to pose for a picture. If you’re to reach Australia. a rather grey area and impossible to give de- is potentially a risky business, but we get
shooting on digital you’ll get a great reaction finitive advice, but if you tread sensitively you letters from travellers who describe incred-
when you show people the images you’ve just SHOPPING should be OK. For example, artists who are ible journeys that they undertake all on
taken of them. You’re not coming to PNG or the Solomons used to dealing with Westerners (eg at Port their own. Parts of PNG and the Solomons
Some people, usually men dressed in tradi- to buy a hi-tech new camera or kit yourself Moresby’s markets) will have experienced bar- are extremely remote – they see literally no
tional style, might request payment if they are out in the latest designer outfits (except, gaining to some degree so will probably not be travellers and can be weeks away from the
photographed – K10 is a popular price. People perhaps, for a handsome koteka; see boxed too offended if you make a lower bid for their nearest medical help. If you get into trou-
are aware that Western photographers can text, opposite), but there is no shortage of work. But forget about the old ‘offer one third ble in some of these places it could take a
make money out of their exotic photos and see wonderful artefacts and craft objects to and work up to a half’ maxim, it’s more like long time to raise an alarm. That said, there
no reason why they shouldn’t get some of the take home. The best advice to shoppers they ask K300, you offer K200 and you get the could be no greater adventure for someone
action. If you’ve gone ahead and taken a photo is to buy one good piece you really like – piece for K250. Maybe. Some artists are used well prepared to drop out, go feral for a few
without getting permission and establishing it might even cost several hundred kina – to being asked for a ‘second price’, and might months and discover communities that may
a price, you may well find yourself facing an rather than armfuls of small inferior carvings even come at a ‘third price’ if asked. What you never have seen an outsider. Expats will tell
angry, heavily armed Highlander demanding and artefacts. Bilums and Highland hats are should never do is demean the quality of the you that in cities such as Port Moresby, Lae
K20 or more in payment. It would take some easy to get home in your luggage, but lug- work in an effort to reduce the price – this is and Mt Hagen the golden rule is ‘safety in
nerve to argue. ging more than one or two unwieldy artefacts highly offensive. numbers’, but with some traveller smarts
Never take a photograph of, or even point a around the country is going to be a hassle. Having had to recently come to terms with even these places can be safe enough for the
camera in or at, a haus tambaran (or any other The style of carving and artefacts varies so this ‘modern’ idea of bargaining some art- solo traveller.
spirit house) without asking permission from widely that general rules are hard to establish ists will explain at the outset that an item Outside the cities this sort of travel can be
a male elder. For more tips see Lonely Planet’s but look for the carver’s deft touches and see you’re interested in has two prices – one high especially rewarding for male travellers and
Travel Photography. how well the recesses are finished. Look at one and one lower one. This is an interesting rambling from village to village is a great way
the details and feel the weight in the timber – strategy when negotiating a price and cer- to get around. Assuming you’ve got your head
POST sometimes inferior timbers are blackened and tainly gives the seller the element of surprise. screwed on and take the usual common sense
Papua New Guinea passed off as high-quality ebony. Perhaps it means that the high price is what precautions you should be fine.
PNG has an efficient postal service and you There are good stores in Port Moresby they’d like to receive and the low price is what Women don’t have it quite so good. For
can usually rely on your mail or parcels get- (p81), Lae (p133) and Wewak (p183), but they’d be prepared to accept. Where we can more information, see p304.
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TELEPHONE & FAX a K89 start-up kit. B-Mobile started slashing 12-digit code on the back and comes in de- is no daylight saving (summer time) in PNG.
Papua New Guinea its prices only to find subscribers complain- nominations of K5, K10, K20 and K50, but See World Time Zones, pp350-1. Time in the
Telecommunications in PNG can be very un- ing in the letters pages of the newspapers that the K5 card is hard to find. Solomon Islands is 11 hours ahead of UTC.
reliable and in the more remote parts of the they’d obviously been ripped off until now. Telikads are widely available and easy You will inevitably encounter ‘Melanesian
country a working telephone line is pretty In July 2007 the government revoked the to use. Just dial %123 from any fixed-line time’ at some point, the habit throughout
rare. The complex networks of relay stations operating license it granted to Digicel and phone, including any type of public phone, Melanesia (and all the South Pacific) of
that link many towns and villages are also pre- tried to kick it out of the country. At the time then 1 for English, your 12-digit code and putting a low premium on punctuality.
carious. In larger centres there’s no guarantee of writing Digicel officially had no operating then your number. Telikads are great for using
of getting a line. There are no area codes in license but a huge market share, and the feel- in hotels, but only for long-distance calls as TOILETS
PNG. Dialling out of PNG can be problematic ing was that if the government moved against most hotels will still charge you K1 for the call, Most toilets are ‘thrones’, though often what
as the limited number of international lines Digicel there would be a massive outcry from even though you’re paying for it. you’re sitting on is far from gold-plated. In
fills quickly – the automated voice says ‘please the people, including huge numbers of first- The phonecard system has all but super- remote villages you might find a long-drop
try again later.’ time mobile-phone users. seded the last of the coin-operated pay phones consisting of a pit with a hollow palm trunk
In 2001 there were moves afoot to privatise In an attempt to unseat Digicel, PNG around PNG. on top, and a toilet seat on top of that. And
the government-owned PNG Telikom. In July Telikom rendered its fixed-line and mobile that’s relatively extravagant. If you’re in a vil-
2004 an agreement was reached with Econet networks uncommunicative with the Digicel SATELLITE PHONES lage and can’t spy the loo, be sure to ask some-
Wireless, a South African telecommunica- mobile network. That is, a Digicel (‘Expect In PNG and the Solomons there are two one. Even if there’s no throne, there will be a
tions company. In December of that year, More, Get More’) handset could not ring a B- functioning networks: Iridium (www.iridium place where people usually defecate; if you
after much vacillation, the PNG government Mobile (‘Feel the Buzz’) handset or a landline .com), which is worldwide and uses a Motorola accidentally take a crap in the village garden
reneged on the agreement and, after a drawn- number within PNG. Nor could a B-Mobile phone; and Aces (Asia Cellular Satellite; www.acesinter the locals might get shitty.
out legal battle, paid Econet Wireless unspeci- phone dial a Digicel phone. A Digicel hand- national.com) which only covers parts of Asia.
fied millions of kina to go home to South set could only ring other Digicel mobiles or The compatible phone is made by Ericsson. TOURIST INFORMATION
Africa. The PNG government decided that make overseas calls. As a consequence, when Aces is a fair bit cheaper, but less reliable. In both PNG and the Solomons there is not
PNG Telikom would remain a government- we were in PNG many people were carrying much in the way of organised, Western-
owned entity after all. Then things got two mobile phones – one Digicel handset and Solomon Islands style tourist offices that hand out maps and
really kooky in 2005 when the government one B-Mobile. Public phones are reasonably common in brochures. Instead, the best information is
issued two licenses for mobile phone carriers Resolving this ridiculous situation was seen larger centres and phonecards widely available; almost always gathered by chatting with the
(see below). as one of the most immediate challenges for Solomon Telekom is the most reliable supplier. locals; be it in the street, a PMV, a hotel
the Somare government returned in the July Cards come in denominations of S$10 and are or guesthouse, a bar – anywhere. Most are
FAX 2007 elections. the same as the PNG ‘punch-in-the-number’ genuinely happy to point you in the right
Kwik piksa leta (fax) is still pretty big in PNG, There’s mobile-phone coverage in all the variety; the cheapest way of making an inter- direction; sometimes they’ll drop everything
where email is still in its infancy. You can major centres in the PNG provinces with cov- national call is from a public phone using a and take you there!
send faxes from post offices for a few kina and erage being expanded as we speak. phonecard. Faxes can be sent internationally There are, of course, a few tourism offices
they can be a useful way of making accom- via Telekom offices. Your hotel might do it around. Among the more useful:
modation bookings. Fax numbers are listed PHONE CODES cheaper. Telekom will also receive faxes, but Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau (%852 3302)
in telephone directories. The cost of sending There are so few phones in PNG that there they must be collected by the customer. Milne Bay Tourism (%641 1503; www.milnebay
a fax from a post office within PNG is K5 for are no local telephone codes for long-distance The Solomons IDD code is %677. To ring tourism.gov.pg)
one page, K6 for two pages (and so on). To domestic calls. PNG’s international code is out of the Solomons simply dial %01 + coun- Morobe Tourism Bureau (%472 7823; www.tourism
send a one-page fax to Australia/Pacific/rest of %675. Some other codes: try code. All international calls are charged at morobe.org.pg)
the world costs K8/9/10 with each additional Dialling outside PNG %05 S$7.50 per minute regardless of where the call PNG Tourism (%320 0211; www.png-tourism.com)
page costing a further K2. International directory assistance %0178 is connected through to. This is the all-new website of the PNG Tourism Promotion
PNG directory assistance %013 Solomon Telekom offers its ‘Breeze’ GSM Authority. It’s well designed and informative.
MOBILE PHONES Reverse charge calls from other phones %016 mobile phone service in Honiara, Gizo and PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (%320 0211;
The situation regarding mobile telephony in Reverse charge calls from payphones %0176 Auki, with new with poles and relays being www.pngtourism.org.pg) Focuses on marketing cam-
PNG is total shemozzle. In 2005 Digicel and Ships at sea %300 4646 erected all the time. paigns, but the website has useful info and links. A few
GreenCom were issued licenses as mobile To call a HF radio phone %019 There are no area codes in the Solomon international offices can be accessed from the website.
phone carriers. GreenCom is yet to start op- Islands. For information on satellite phones, Solomon Islands Visitors Bureau (%22442; www
erations. Digicel (www.digicelpng.com), however, For a full list of phone codes, see the front of see above. .visitsolomons.com.sb)
moved quickly, launching in early 2007 and the PNG phone book.
offering cheap handsets and call rates. The TIME TRAVELLERS WITH DISABILITIES
take-up was enormous. For the first time PHONECARDS & TELIKAD The time throughout PNG is 10 hours ahead PNG and the Solomons have little infra-
grassroots people (in the major centres at Most PNG cities have phonecard public of UTC (GMT). When it’s noon in PNG it structure to cater for the needs of disabled
least) could afford mobile phones. The cost of phones, but people rarely buy a phonecard will be noon in Sydney, 9am in Jakarta, 2am in travellers. Access ramps are virtually nonex-
a PNG Telikom B-Mobile (www.pacificmobile.com.pg) that needs to be inserted into a phone. Almost London, 9pm the previous day in New York istent and only the most upmarket hotels are
start-up kit was K335 while Digicel introduced everyone has a Telikad. The Telikad has a and 6pm the previous day in Los Angeles. There likely to have lifts (elevators).
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For general information check out the fol- WORKING VISAS passport-holders. However, the guidelines the Solomons. These are often in remote com-
lowing websites: Applying for a business visa requires all man- are ambiguous for nationals from former or munities, so this sort of work is not for those
Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com) ner of letters from home (including letters of continuing communist countries, the Indian who will faint at the sight of a spider.
Radar (www.radar.org.uk) invitations from businesses) and PNG, as well subcontinent, Nauru and Kiribati. Nationals Activities range from teaching and medi-
Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality (www as details of your business. Approval can take from these countries should seek advice from cal assistance to advisory roles with local
.sath.org) months, so start early. A Business Short-Term a Solomon Islands embassy (p293) before area councils. Most are either associated
Multiple-Entry visa is valid for 12 months and travelling. If you do need a visa and there’s no with the churches or with international
VISAS allows stays of up to 60 days each time and Solomon Islands embassy around (pretty good volunteer organisations.
Visitors must have a valid passport or interna- costs A$220. If you are seeking an employ- chance of that), head for a British embassy. Lonely Planet’s volunteering website (www
tionally recognised travel document valid for ment visa, you must provide certain medical Visitors permits can be extended for a .lonelyplanet.com/volunteer) has excellent resources
at least six months beyond the date of entry results, details for a police clearance, a copy further three months at the immigration office for those interested in making a contribution
into PNG or the Solomon Islands. of your employment contract and a copy of a (%25081; Mendana Ave, Honiara; h9.30-11.30am & 1.30- to PNG or the Solomon Islands.
In PNG there are heavy penalties for over- Work Permit issued by the PNG Deparment 3.30pm Mon-Fri) in the Department of Commerce, Most of the organisations listed here have
staying any visa. of Labour & Employment. Industries & Employment building. It takes projects in both PNG and the Solomons.
Church and aid volunteers can enter on a 24 hours and costs S$50. Australian Business Volunteers (www.abv.org.au)
Papua New Guinea special A$25 visa (plus A$50 ‘transmission Australian Volunteers International (AVA; www
TOURIST VISAS fee’) but the issuing authorities are required to VOLUNTEERING .australianvolunteers.com)
Far and away the easiest and cheapest way wait for special immigration department ap- There are several organisations operating Canadian University Service Overseas (CUSO; www
to get a 60-day tourist visa is to apply on proval. Researchers, filmmakers and journal- volunteer projects in PNG, and a couple in .cuso.org)
arrival at the airport. The process is simple ists must submit their visa applications with
enough: once inside the terminal change a special application form from the National
money to get your K100, fill out a form, take Research Institute (%326 0300; fax 325 0531; PO Box VOICES: RAE SMART, VOLUNTEER
your cash and one passport photo to the 5854, Boroko). They cost A$25 (visas for journal-
Rae Smart, aged 64, has lots of experience in volunteering, especially in PNG where she worked
immigration desk and Bob’s your aunty’s ists cost A$220).
for 15 years as a teacher, both in Bougainville (which she had to evacuate from in 1990) and
live-in lover. Note that on weekends or at
in Port Moresby. She is now a business development and eco-development director and runs
random other times the exchange bureau VISA EXTENSIONS
Australian Business Volunteers (www.abv.org.au). We met her in Rabaul during the Warwagira
inside immigration can be closed, and you’ll Tourist visas can be extended once only, for
Mask Festival, which she’s eager to promote abroad.
be sent into the arrivals hall (without your one month, for a K200 fee. To do it yourself,
passport or luggage) to change at the Bank go to the Department of Foreign Affairs’ immi-
You volunteered in various countries. What makes volunteering in PNG different from
South Pacific. This process can be fraught gration section (%323 2010; ground fl, Moale Haus, Wards
volunteering in other destinations? I must say volunteering in PNG is often a challenge, which
however if you have a same-day connecting Strip, Waigani; h9am-noon Mon-Fri), where you’ll bat-
implies a physical challenge. Take the Sepik area for example: amenities are scarce and life’s tough.
flight out of Port Moresby into the prov- tle hordes of agents who are on first-name
But the rewards are huge. The culture is so diverse and so distinct from anywhere else that it
inces – the queues can be very long and the terms with the staff. Extending a visa takes
does get under the skin like no other place on earth – even if you don’t want it to!
process can take hours. So, far and away one to two weeks, though occasionally travel-
the most reliable and stress-free way to get lers do it faster.
In the minds of many people, PNG has a fairly negative image. Is it a dangerous country
a 60-day tourist visa is to apply at PNG Stories abound of travellers trying to extend
to be a volunteer in?
diplomatic mission (see p293). In Australia visas by mail from other parts of the country
Some aspects of this bad publicity are true. Crime and lawlessness are a problem. But it’s equally
the cost of a tourist visa is A$35 (see and having, after weeks of waiting, to trek
true to say that people in PNG are incredibly kind-hearted; whatever they have they share it
www.pngcanberra.org/visas/visitor.htm). back to Port Moresby to retrieve their pass-
with you – especially true for women. Don’t be shy of these people, getting to know them is
At the time of writing the PNG Tourism ports. Don’t bother.
very rewarding.
Promotion Authority was advertising its in- If money is not too tight, using an agent will
tention to waive the fee for tourist visas in an save you a lot of grief. Agents can be found in
What are the main voluntary programmes in PNG? There are lots of possibilities: health ed-
effort to promote tourism. However, when the Yellow Pages under ‘Visa Services’.
ucation, AIDS awareness, poverty reduction, agriculture, fisheries, peace and reconciliation in
we inquired, the PNG High Commission in
Bougainville, business development, among others. There’s something for everybody.
Canberra, Australia, was as yet under no in- VISAS FOR INDONESIA
structions to change its procedure of collect- Visas for Indonesia can be bought in Port
Is PNG a safe place for women volunteers? It depends on where they go. Rapes and attacks
ing fees for tourist visas. Watch this space. Moresby or Vanimo (see p293). For the low-
are not uncommon in this country, and it can be quite daunting. It’s preferable to avoid cities.
Wherever you apply, be sure to ask for the down on crossing the Vanimo–Jayapura bor-
As a rule of thumb, the deeper you go into the bush, the safer it is. Rural areas are much safer
full 60 days, as extending is a nightmare. You der see p310.
because the community looks after you and values you.
might need to show onward ticketing and
Then it’s a matter of etiquette and behaviour. My tips: act confidently; find out what the taboos
adequate funds to support yourself. Solomon Islands of the local culture are; dress modestly; don’t swim in bikinis, and cover your knees; don’t walk
People coming in by yacht pay K200 for In theory, entry visas are not required as
on your own and try to take a local guide to accompany you; make friends with women; in cities,
a visa (which must be obtained in advance) a three-month visitors permit is granted
don’t go out of your hotel with anything you don’t want to lose. Whatever the hardships, all I
and a K300 customs clearance fee when upon arrival to most nationalities, and espe-
can say to potential women travellers and volunteers is: don’t hesitate to go to PNG.
they leave. cially to Commonwealth, US and most EU
© Lonely Planet Publications
DIRECTORY 304 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l l e r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o r k 305
DIRECTORY
German Development Service (DED; %325 5380; experience some low-level harassment, such PNG and the Solomons have many strong WORK
www.ded.de) as whistling, hissing etc. Ignore it. beliefs about women and their menstrual cy- There are about 20,000 expats living in PNG
Japan International Co-operation Agency (JICA; It can sometimes be difficult for women to cles, and in some parts women are considered and they work in just about every facet of the
%325 1699; www.jica.go.jp/png) have a normal conversation with a man with- to be dangerous to men during menstruation – economy. Mining, logging, financial services,
Voluntary Service Overseas (British VSO; %852 out being misinterpreted as a flirt. Similarly, if it’s that time of the month it’s better not to aviation and tourism are full of expats, often
1924; www.vso.org.uk) a Western man who attempts to initiate a mention it. In some parts, the Sepik for exam- earning quite good money. At the other end
Volunteer Service Abroad (NZ VSA; %325 4136; conversation with a local woman can cause ple, women are thought to have powerful en- of the spectrum, aid agencies and projects
www.vsa.org.nz) embarrassment and confusion. ergies that can be harmful to men. It is tambu in PNG and the Solomons attract volunteer
You need to think about what you wear, in many places for a woman to pass over a workers (see p303).
Some other useful websites that have details but not too hard. Three-quarter-length pants man – to step over a seated man’s outstretched Potential employees will need to get a
for those interested in volunteering: and T-shirts are common and you can get legs or even over his possessions, and a man work permit/visa, which can be a convoluted
Global Volunteers (www.globalvolunteers.org) away with shorts if they’re not too far above mustn’t swim under a woman in a canoe. process (see p302).
Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com) the knee – showing thighs is considered
sexually provocative.
WOMEN TRAVELLERS Skimpy tops, however, should be avoided.
Plenty of women travel to PNG and the You won’t see local women in Western-style
Solomons and while doing so with a man, or swimwear, and unless you’re at a resort it’s
a friend, is usually safer than doing so alone, best to use a laplap (sarong) as a wrap. Take
quite a few solo women have written to us with your cue from local women.
glowing reports of their trips. Lone women Public displays of affection are almost
can find PNG trying, but if you’ve travelled unknown, and a Western couple making
to developing countries by yourself in the past physical contact in public – even holding
(Africa, the Middle East, Indonesia…) you hands – is regarded as an oddity and, espe-
probably won’t find PNG or the Solomons par- cially in traditional rural societies, may be
ticularly difficult. Of course, lone women need regarded with contempt. This can put the
to be more aware of where they go, what they woman in danger. In villages you’ll notice
wear and how they act. There are common- a distinct difference between the way local
sense precautions outlined in Dangers & people see themselves and how they expect
Annoyances (p291). Westerners to see them. Women will cover
We haven’t heard of any women travel- their breasts as soon as you arrive, a hang-up
lers being sexually assaulted, but women are from the time of the conservative mastas (co-
raped with disturbing regularity in PNG so lonial white adult males) and their haughty
you should avoid any situation where you’re attitudes towards locals.
alone with a man you don’t know well. At Many towns have women’s groups (which
night, don’t go anywhere alone, and avoid sometimes have guesthouses) and these are
secluded spots at any time. good places to meet local women and learn
Men sometimes assume you’re fair game about their lives. Usually it’s OK for men to
if travelling alone and it’s not uncommon to go as well, but check first.
TRANSPORT
tion over a whole year.
Tours 311 on international flights. Qantas sells seats
Getting Around 312 on flights between Australia and PNG,
Air 312 Carbon Offset Schemes
but Qantas planes no longer fly to PNG: Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow jetsetters to offset the
Bicycle 315 Air Niugini carries Qantas passengers.
Boat 315 greenhouse gases they are responsible for with contributions to energy-saving projects and
Air Niugini flies to Cairns, Brisbane and other climate-friendly initiatives in the developing world – including projects in India, Honduras,
Car & Motorcycle 317 Sydney in Australia, and Tokyo, Manila,
Hitching 318 Kazakhstan and Uganda.
Singapore and Honiara. At the time of re- Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry,
Local Transport in Urban Areas 318 search, Cairns and Brisbane were the only
Pmv 318 supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff
cities from which you could fly to PNG and author travel.
Tours 319 with Airlines PNG.
Walking 319 For more information check out our website: lonelyplanet.com.
Jackson’s Airport (POM) located in Port
Moresby is, for the time being, the only in-
GETTING THERE & AWAY ternational airport in PNG. For years there
has been talk of Mt Hagen and Alotau
11km east of Honiara, Solomon Airlines
flies four or five days a week to Brisbane.
Almost all flights to Honiara go via
Australia or Fiji. So if you’re coming from
ENTERING THE REGION reopening for international flights – if At the time of research this Honiara– Europe, Asia or anywhere in between – head
Most people can enter both Papua New Guinea they do, flights will probably be to/from Brisbane service was looking shaky – for Australia. From North America, also
and the Solomons with nothing more than a Cairns only. its plane was grounded and it had chartered look at Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com) or anyone
passport with six months’ validity, an onward There’s an Air Niugini office (%327 3396) at an Ozjet plane to service this route. It also else flying to Fiji.
ticket and enough money to support them- Jackson’s Airport where you can buy domes- has one or two flights weekly to Nadi in Fiji
selves. Make sure you have at least some cash tic and international tickets. and Port Vila or Santo in Vanuatu. Asia
on you to pay for your visa. For details, see Formerly Air Nauru, Our Airline (%+677 22586 There are no flights between PNG and
p302. There is a departure tax of S$40 in the SOLOMON ISLANDS in Honiara, 1300 369 044 in Australia; www.airnauru.com.au) neighbouring Indonesia. Garuda Indonesia
Solomon Islands while in PNG the departure Solomon Airlines (% 20031; www.solomonairlines flies weekly on a Thursday from Brisbane to and a couple of Indonesia’s new budget
tax is incorporated into your ticket price. .com.au), the national carrier, is vying for Honiara, overnights in Honiara, then flies airlines do fly to Jayapura, just across the
the title of least reliable airline on earth, Friday Honiara–Nauru–Tarawa (Kiribati) border from PNG; travel agencies in Jakarta
though to be fair its international serv- and back. and Denpasar can help, otherwise you have
AIR ices are better than the domestic flights. Air Pacific (%+679 672 0888 in Fiji, 1800 230 150 to fly via Singapore or Cairns.
The vast majority of visitors to PNG and the From its base at Henderson Airport (HIR), in Australia; www.airpacific.com), Fiji’s national car- Air Niugini has weekly flights between
Solomon Islands will arrive by air. rier, flies weekly from Nadi with good con- Manila and Port Moresby on Tuesday,
nections to Brisbane, all over the Pacific Wednesday and Thursday. There are
Airports & Airlines THINGS CHANGE... and beyond. also flights from Singapore on Monday,
The good thing about flying into either PNG The information in this chapter is particu- Air Niugini (%+677 20336 in Honiara; www.airniugini Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, and Tokyo
or the Solomons is that you don’t have to larly vulnerable to change. Check directly .com.pg) flies twice weekly between Honiara on Saturday and Sunday.
shop around too much looking for a ticket. with the airline or a travel agent to make and Port Moresby. Air Niugini was flying a From anywhere else in Asia you’ll need
In the past routes into both PNG and the sure you understand how a fare (and ticket direct route between Tokua (Rabaul, PNG) to first get to one of the cities listed here or
Solomons were almost exclusively control- you may buy) works and be aware of the to Honiara a few years ago. It’s possible that somewhere in Australia.
led by the national airlines of the respective security requirements for international this route may be resurrected. An agency worth considering is STA
countries. Recently there’s been some new travel. Shop carefully. The details given in Travel (Bangkok %02 236 0262; www.statravel.co.th;
competition that, thankfully, has brought this chapter should be regarded as pointers Tickets Singapore % 6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg; Tokyo
down airfares. But, even though prices have and are not a substitute for your own careful, If you buy your flight to PNG with Air %03 5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp). Another re-
come down, airfares into PNG and the up-to-date research. Niugini you qualify for discounts on the source in Japan is No 1 Travel (%03 3205 6073;
Solomons are still expensive. airline’s domestic services. www.no1-travel.com). Schenker Travel (%2545 1033;
308 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r R o u t e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 309
Auki
Malaita I
and reliable. flight with Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com), Air
Rennell I
Niugini or Solomon Airlines.
Tinggoa
Solomon Airlines
264
Australia & New Zealand Some reliable agencies:
Airlines PNG
446
Air Niugini
HONIARA
416
Guadalcanal
Bellona
Bellona I
surcharges and GST
Qantas between Australia and PNG. There FRANCE
are a range of fares and some complex dis- Anyway (%0892-893 892; www.anyway.fr in French)
192
486
count structures (see www.airniugini.com.pg Nouvelles Frontières (%0825-000 747; www
588
0
0
Seghe
Ramata
8
following prices are for the full-fare/cheapest OTU Voyages (www.otu.fr in French) This agency special-
66
284
discounted return seats including taxes and ises in student and youth travel.
215
Munda
215
charges: Sydney (A$2670/810, twice weekly);
Choiseul
Brisbane (A$2225/805, daily); and Cairns GERMANY
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
345
Gizo
SOLOMON
ISLANDS
(A$1463/534, daily). Promotional fares must Just Travel (%089-747 3330; www.justtravel.de)
215
5
Bougainville 34 be paid for within 24 hours of booking. You Lastminute (%01805-284 366; www.lastminute.de
Ballalae
can book at either Qantas or Air Niugini of- in German)
fices online (the Air Niugini website calculates
Buka
OCEAN
NEW GUINEA
3
29
Misima I
Rabaul/Tokua
Sea
3407 7149 www.worldaviation.com.au) are agents in CTS Viaggi (%06-462 0431; www.cts.it in Italian)
Australia for Solomon Airlines. Agencies Italian agency, specialising in student and youth travel.
Solomon
Ireland
Kiriwina I
$2370
Losuia
733 035; www.statravel.com.au). For online bookings, Air Pacific operates from Nadi to Honiara
Kavieng
K875/S
343
Britain
43
New
335
2
From New Zealand to PNG, connect with where Air Niugini flies to Port Moresby.
0
Alotau
70
an Air Niugini flight in Australia. Flights to Alternatively, Air Niugini flies Nadi to Port
Gurney
Hoskins
Australia can be very cheap if you plan ahead. Moresby return for K1623 (valid for 14 days).
1
1
55
branches throughout the country and www the Pacific is via Australia.
624
Popondetta
311
Bismarck
51
351
335
Sea
381
Woitape
177
112
201
The easiest and probably the cheapest way Solomon Airlines fare is S$3401.
MORESBY
Lae
382
Sea
Manus I
377 to Port Moresby on an Air Niugini flight. Flying via Australia is the obvious way to get
39
Madang
Kerema
Coral
There are millions of deals to Australia or to PNG from the UK and Ireland, and is es-
569
396
Goroka
9
83
Singapore, some of the cheapest with air-
6
39
61 212
lines such as Gulf Air (www.gulfairco.com), Emirates deals on offer. Return tickets from London
MAIN ROUTES & FARES
988
Kundiawa
47 9
572
1
31
62
Air (www.evaair.com), costing from €1100 re- including taxes; or you could consider a
2
26
64
Mendi
525
tickets take in Singapore and Australia; and starting at about UK£850. You would
Mt Hagen
819
295
you could tack on a flight to PNG or the then have to tack on flights to the PNG, but
AUSTRALIA
Wewak
Balimo
Solomons. The Singapore option is obviously if you make your way to Cairns these are
Moro
Daru
Tari
9 6
5
93 80
36
572
far more dates (more than a dozen flights The other option is flying to Singapore,
495
86
8 per week versus two from Singapore to then on to Port Moresby. Again, there is al-
Kiunga
Vanimo
Suki
2
16
297
Alternatively, you could fly return to Fiji and other Middle Eastern airlines have some
Obo
To get to the Solomons, make your way to Leaving PNG for Indonesia is relatively The occasional bus (1½ hours) leaves the Nggelas and Gizo in the Solomons, and
Australia and take a flight from Brisbane. straightforward although it can take all day for the border. You might need to change Rabaul in PNG.
In the UK, advertisements for many travel to cross between the two countries. If you buses a few times. If you’re in a hurry con- The Coral Princess (%+617 4080 4080; www.png
agencies appear in the travel pages of the haven’t already got an Indonesian visa in sider hiring an ojek (motorbike), or per- holidays.com.au) plies a route from Cairns to
weekend broadsheet newspapers, in Time Out, Port Moresby (p293) you’ll need to get one haps two (to help with luggage) to take you Alotau, through the Trobriands, New Britain,
the Evening Standard and in the free magazine at the Indonesian Consulate (%857 1371; fax 857 1373; straight there. the Sepik, Madang and Tufi to Port Moresby.
TNT. Also check out the following: h9am-noon & 2-4pm Mon-Fri) in Vanimo. It takes For something smaller and more bou-
Bridge the World (%0870-444 7474; www.b-t-w 24 hours to issue a 30-day or 60-day visa and SEA tique try the SV Imajica II (www.theimajica
.co.uk) only the 30-day visas can be extended inside There are plenty of boats plying the waters experience.com) that does charters, surfaris,
STA Travel (%0870-160 0599; www.statravel.co.uk) For Indonesia. You’ll need K70, two photos, a around PNG and the Solomons, but very diving and exploratory cruises through the
travellers under the age of 26. completed application form (which you get few are actually scheduled services to other waters of PNG.
Trailfinders (%020-7938 3939; www.trailfinders.co.uk) there) and a passport valid for at least six countries. For information on travelling be-
Travel Bag (%0870-890 1456; www.travelbag.co.uk) months. It’s best to say you’re heading for tween Bougainville and the Solomon Islands, Solomon Islands
TRANSPORT
TRANSPORT
Bali or Manado as they are less controversial see the boxed text, p314. The Solomons is similarly popular with
The USA & Canada destinations than anywhere in Papua. private yachties but, like PNG, doesn’t see
There are a couple of options from North Locals travel by PMV to the market on the Papua New Guinea much in the way of big boats. Places where
America: fly to Australia, then on to Port Indonesian side of the border to stock up on Unless you are a Torres Strait Islander, it you can complete immigration formali-
Moresby; or fly to Narita (Tokyo), Manila or cheaply made goods. Immigration officials is illegal to island hop between Thursday ties include Honiara, Gizo, Graciosa Bay
Singapore, then on to Port Moresby. Deals be- turn a blind eye to shopping day trippers Island (known as TI to locals) and PNG. (Ndende Island, Santa Cruz), Noro and
tween a number of US and Canadian cities and although this courtesy is seldom extended You can exit Australia from TI but you must Yandina. Boats can stay in the Solomons for
Australia’s east coast are common and a good to foreigners. PMVs to the border (K10, 1½ go directly to PNG, usually Daru, where you three months and this can be extended to a
return flight to Australia is about US$1150. to two hours) leave around 8am from the can pass through immigration if you already total of six months. For a swathe of detail
From North America you could fly to the main roundabout every weekday. Failing that, have a visa. see the excellent www.noon site.com.
Solomons via Brisbane or, if you coordinate Visser Enterprises Ltd (p187) will drive you It might be possible to crew on a yacht par-
with Solomon Airlines’ infrequent flights, travel there for K154. PRIVATE BOATS ticipating in the newly re-established Brisbane
via Nadi in Fiji or Port Vila in Vanuatu. Formalities on the PNG side are easy, PNG and the Solomons are popular stop- to Gizo Yacht Race held annually in May (it
The via-Asia options might prove cheaper, however Indonesian immigration isn’t able ping points for cruising yachts, either heading was cancelled in 2007 because of the April
but with only one or two flights to PNG a week to stamp you into their country. Instead, you through Asia or the Pacific. In PNG you can tsunami). For more information contact the
they can be inconvenient. Deals to Narita can must go directly to the immigration office once clear immigration at Alotau, Daru, Kavieng, Gizo Yacht Club (www.gizoyacht club.com.sb).
be particularly good (US$570 from the west you get to Jayapura (opposite the Dafonsoro Kimbe, Lae, Lorengau, Madang, Misima
coast, US$730 from New York), and if you’re Hotel), fill out a form and present your pass- Island, Port Moresby, Rabaul, Samarai and TOURS
flying from the east coast, might cut out a port and 50,000Rp. The staff here like to keep Vanimo. You must get a visa before you arrive. The three main PNG-based inbound tour
couple of stops. Some agencies recommended you waiting but if you don’t get the stamp See www.noonsite.com for a full rundown. operators are Melanesian Tourist Services,
for online bookings: you will have dramas exiting. If you plan on Trans Niugini Tours and Niugini Holidays.
www.cheapflights.com travelling elsewhere in Papua you will need a CRUISE SHIPS They offer a wide variety of tours but prices
www.expedia.com (www.expedia.ca in Canada) Surat Keterangan Jalan (SKJ), or travel permit. There is no shortage of ‘Pacific island para- are usually disconcertingly high. As with
www.orbitz.com This is issued by the provincial police office in dises’ in PNG and the Solomons, but finding tours anywhere, taking this option should
www.travelocity.com (www.travelocity.ca in Canada) Jayapura for a small fee and two photos. one of the huge trans-Pacific cruising vessels give you a pretty smooth trip, but you can do
Back at the border you will need to catch that calls in is nigh impossible. Samarai Island much the same thing for about half the price
In Canada there’s also Travel Cuts (%800-667- a shared taxi (16,700Rp or 350,000Rp for the in Milne Bay Province used to see one or two if you’re prepared to send a few emails and
2887; www.travelcuts.com), the country’s national whole car) into Jayapura or hitch. ships a year, but not anymore. organise it yourself. For smaller operators, see
student travel agency. Entering PNG you must first get a visa On a slightly smaller scale North Star Cruises p319. For Kokoda Track tours, see p93.
in Jayapura (or any other PNG mission; see (%+618 9192 1829; www.northstarcrusies.com.au) of- Dick Lang’s Desert Air (%08-8264 7200, 1800 004
LAND p293). This is fairly straightforward, but will fers cruises aboard the True North which is 200, both in Australia; www.dicklang.com.au) Operates
Border Crossings take at least a couple of days. Remember you limited to 36 passengers who depart from all-inclusive air safaris. A unique option, visiting some
The only land border crossing in either PNG must get stamped out of Indonesia at the Cairns in Australia on a Dash 8 aircraft and off-the beaten-track places. Itineraries are usually timed
or the Solomon Islands is between Vanimo immigration office in Jayapura, not at the land in Alotau. The luxury boat plies through around the Goroka and Mt Hagen shows.
in Sandaun Province and Jayapura in Papua border itself. You’ll need to pay a 50,000Rp the Louisiade islands in Milne Bay Province, Eco-Tourism Melanesia (%323 4518; www.em.com
Province (West Papua), Indonesia. At the fee and you must leave within 24 hours of Tufi, New Britain, the Duke of Yorks and .pg) Locally owned and operated, Eco-Tourism Melanesia
time of research this border (PNG h9am-5pm, the date of your stamp. The office is open onto Kavieng from where passengers fly back focuses on village-based tours and cultural, wildlife,
Indonesia h8am-4pm) was open and operating (or can be opened) most of the time and if to Cairns. bird-watching and trekking trips. Highly recommended,
pretty smoothly, but it has a history of closing the staff tell you that your passport can be The Orion (%1300 361 012 in Australia; www.orion but not cheap.
at short notice so check Lonely Planet’s Thorn stamped at the border hold your ground be- cruises.com.au) has a cruise that leaves Auckland Field Guides (www.fieldguides.com/png.htm) Well-
Tree (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com) bulletin board cause the border officials will insist that you in New Zealand, and travels through New organised but expensive bird-watching tours, focusing on
before making plans. return to Jayapura! Caledonia, Vanuatu before visiting Santa Ana, birds of paradise. US-based.
312 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r 313
Melanesian Tourist Services (%675-311 2050; ubiquitous balus (aeroplane). About 2000 Outside Port Moresby and Honiara you can A 30-day Port Moresby to Honiara return
www.mtspng.com) Operates several high-end resorts, airstrips have been cut out of the bush or forget about X-rays and metal detectors. flight with Air Niugini costs K1449 (K2206
which you’ll stay at on its tours. Runs diving and Sepik into hill tops and coral islands during the For lighter aircraft, not only is your baggage valid for six months).
tours. last 80 years or so and the aeroplane has be- weighed (16kg is the limit but 20kg is usually
Niugini Holidays (%1300 850 020, 02-9290 2055, come almost symbolic of the way technology accepted), so are you – this can be embarrass- Airlines in the Region
both in Australia; www.nghols.com) Probably the biggest has intruded so successfully into what was ing if you’ve been indulging in too much kaikai While Air Niugini operates larger planes to the
range of tours, from specialised family tours through surf- a loose collection of hunter-gatherer socie- (food) and bia (beer). Excess-baggage charges larger centres, the smaller second- and third-
ing, fishing, diving, trekking, war-veterans tours and more. ties. Less than a quarter of these airstrips are are reasonable but can add considerably to level airlines service everywhere else. Airlines
Trans Niugini Tours (%675-542 1438; www.png regularly used today, but many involve the your travel costs if you’re lugging around a PNG (formerly called Milne Bay Air) is the
tours.com) Based in Mt Hagen, these guys operate the sort of hair-raising landings you won’t easily weighty Sepik carving that you bought in a main secondary airline in PNG, with North
Sepik Spirit (see p315) and several luxury lodges. There are forget. The pilots are extremely skilful – keep moment of pique. Some remote strips have Coast Aviation, covering destinations out of
general tours, wildlife tours, treks, cruises and tours of the telling yourself this as you approach flat- no facilities at all – sometimes just a guy with Lae, and MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship)
cultural shows. topped ridges masquerading as airports. a two-way radio who meets the flights, and at dealing with the smallest communities, and
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TRANSPORT
Aircraft are often small and strips can be many of these remote strips you’ll have to buy doing it pretty well. In theory, tickets on Air
almost unrecognisable if you don’t know to your ticket direct from the pilot – cash only. Niugini and Airlines PNG can be booked at
GETTING AROUND look for them. Some of the more remote strips
you land on might look and feel more like
Outside the main centres don’t rely on
being able to pay for anything on credit. Even
any travel agency linked into the international
computer reservations network.
AIR rally tracks, and others have slight bends to in big towns there’s no guarantee. Air Niugini Following is a list of airlines operating
PNG and the Solomon Islands are probably negotiate during take off and landing! The refused our plastic at Jackson’s Airport in Port scheduled flights in PNG and the Solomons.
more reliant on air transport than any other strip at Wau is on a nine-degree slope. All of Moresby because ‘the phone lines are down’ – Local offices are listed on the airline websites
country on the earth. The population is scat- them are great fun! a common problem. or under the relevant destinations in the re-
tered, often isolated in mountain valleys and Aviation in PNG and the Solomons will Unpredictable weather combined with me- gional chapters; the websites also have up-
on tiny islands, but even the most remote probably prove more informal than you’re chanical problems and complex schedules can to-date fare tables. Other airlines do charter
villages now have some familiarity with the used to (alert: understatement of the year!). frequently lead to delays, or cancellations. services; see the Yellow Pages.
It’s not unheard of for passengers to stand Air Niugini (%327 3444; www.airniugini.com.pg)
around scanning the horizon all day. In the Airlines PNG (%325 0555; www.apng.com)
THOSE MAGNIFICENT MEN & THEIR FLYING MACHINES Solomons your domestic flight has about a MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship; %325 2668; www
50% chance of arriving on the right day. So .maf.org.au)
The development of the Wau and Bulolo gold fields in the 1920s launched aviation in New
have a book (or two) handy, and make friends North Coast Aviation (%472 1755; norco-lae@global
Guinea. Cecil John Levien realised the gold fields would never be successful as long as getting
with the locals. .net.pg)
men and supplies up from the coast involved a long, hard slog across difficult terrain populated
Flying in this part of the world is far more Solomon Airlines (%20031; www.solomonairlines
by unfriendly tribes. So his Guinea Gold company set up Guinea Airways.
than just getting from A to B and provides .com.au)
Its pilot, ‘Pard’ Mustar, had to do far more than just fly the first DH-37 biplane. First he ar-
some of the most memorable moments of
ranged for an airstrip to be constructed at Lae (the local jail provided prisoners to build it), then
he walked from Salamaua to Wau to supervise the airstrip construction there. Next, he had to
your trip (or your life). It would be even more Fares & Discounts
of a joy if it wasn’t so damned expensive. Airlines PNG doesn’t offer any discounts on
travel back to Rabaul where the DH-37 had arrived in pieces as sea cargo, assemble it and fly
The PNG domestic air scene is currently in its domestic sectors, so a return fair is sim-
to Lae – a 650km journey, much of it over sea and unexplored jungle, in a single-engine aircraft
a period of dramatic change. Popular third- ply twice the price of a one-way fare, all year
of dubious reliability.
level airline Airlink went broke in mid-2007 round. One-way flights within PNG are a
In April 1927 Mustar took off on his first flight to Wau – and couldn’t find it! He returned
after being grounded for a period over trans- little cheaper with Airlines PNG than with Air
to Lae, took more directions and advice and tried again with an equal lack of success. Finally,
gressions of safety regulations. Airlink was the Niugini, so if you’re only travelling one way it’s
on his third attempt, and with an experienced guide on board, he made the first of many
only flyer servicing many remote airstrips in better to fly with Airlines PNG. If, however,
50-minute flights.
PNG – many barely profitable with the cur- you can arrange your itinerary around return
Mustar quickly realised the need for more capacity and reliability, and before the end of 1927
rent cost of aviation fuel – so it remains to be flights then it’s better to fly with Air Niugini.
he went to Germany to buy a Junkers W-34 at the astronomical cost of UK£8000. It may have
seen exactly if or how this hole will be filled. Air Niugini has a bag full of discounts – no-
been expensive, but at the time it was the latest thing in cargo aircraft and could lift over a ton.
At the time of writing, Airlines PNG had body pays the full fare on Air Niugini domestic
A second W-34 soon followed, and with these aircraft Guinea Airways operated a service that
‘suspended indefinitely’ since June 2007 its flights – and its discounts apply to return jour-
proved the real possibilities of air transport just as convincingly as the much better publicised
services to all but its major destinations. neys. To benefit you must arrange your flights
flights of Lindbergh or Kingsford-Smith. Wau became the busiest airfield in the world and more
After the collapse of Airlink this created as a series of return journeys. So if you want
air freight was lifted annually in New Guinea than in the rest of the world put together!
further isolation for people around the to fly Port Moresby–Rabaul–Kavieng–Port
Mustar left New Guinea but in 1929 was called back to attempt a scheme that, to many people
remote airstrips. Moresby, rather than buying three one-way
at the time, must have seemed like something in the realms of science fiction. He had to find
Following stiff competition from Airlines flights, buy a Port Moresby–Rabaul return,
a way of flying gold dredges weighing 3000 tons into the gold fields. Mustar’s answer was to
PNG for both its main international and do- and a Rabaul–Kavieng return.
dismantle the dredges and buy another Junkers, the G-31, a three-engine, all-metal monster that
mestic routes, Air Niugini revised its fares in The ‘See PNG Fare’ offers a 20% discount
cost UK£30,000 and could lift three tons. In the early 1930s a fleet of these aircraft carried not
2007. Air Niugini domestic fares were reduced on all advance purchases of domestic tick-
just gold equipment but also workers and even the first horses ever to be transported by air.
by an average of about 10%. ets to non-PNG residents who can produce
314 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B i c y c l e 315
TRANSPORT
to share a boat ride to the Shortlands (on Saturday, which is market day), but the Arawa–Buin
road was blocked due to a landslide. Luckily we found a motor-canoe in Sirawai, a few kilometres Wantok Fares These are the cheapest at 60% off the Beach Resort et al, sold their popular cruise
from the landslide. The crossing to the Shortlands took three hours, along Bougainville’s amaz- normal economy class round-trip fare. Passengers must boat MTS Discoverer in November 2006. They
ing coastline. We registered at the police station in Lofung, to the east of Shortland Island. The stay away at least one Sunday (if they fly out on a Sunday plan to build another cruiser soon.
policemen were truly surprised to see two foreigners but did not make any fuss about our arrival they must stay away at least one week). There’s a 30-day For the time being, that leaves only the
by boat from PNG. We spent the night near Korovou. maximum stay. Sepik Spirit, run by Trans Niugini Tours (www
The next morning we had an early start (3am) to tackle the second crossing, due south to .pngtours.com), cruising PNG waters full-time. It
Gizo. What a crossing! The first hour was nightmarish – the sea was so rough (think 3m swells) These fares may not be available at all can accommodate up to 18 people in its nine
that we had to take shelter in the lagoon south of Fauro Island. When the sea calmed down times, and must be issued on Air Niugini luxury rooms and does mainly Sepik River
a bit, we started off again, this time in the open ocean. We tried to forget all those stories of ticket stocks – you must buy them from cruises, usually packaged with the company’s
capsized boats in these waters… Apart from a few showers, the sea remained fairly calm. The an Air Niugini office. Be certain of your luxury lodges in the Highlands and on the
boat made a few stops, at Vella Lavella and other smaller islands. Around noon the silhouette travelling dates as changing them incurs river. It’s not cheap – all inclusive four-day/
of Mt Kolombangara became visible on the horizon. The crossing of Gizo Strait was a bit nerve- a K110 penalty. Cashing them incurs a three-night Sepik cruise costs about US$1740
racking due to huge swells. We arrived in Gizo at 2pm, exhausted but relieved to have covered K165 penalty. per person, twin share.
this stretch without any incident. The ride cost us S$200. We went to the Immigration Office Solomon Airlines has no discounts on its
and got stamped in without fuss’. domestic fares. Large Boats
There are definitely some risks involved in this crossing, but here are a few words of wis- Sailing from one exotic locale to the next,
dom for the intrepid who’d like to travel by boat between the Shortlands and Gizo as safely Air Passes via who-knows-where, on a slowly rolling
as possible: Air Niugini offers an excellent-value four- freighter has a certain Joseph Conrad–style
coupon ‘See PNG Pass’ that allows visitors to romance to it. And while cargo boats gen-
Preferably test your seaworthiness beforehand, eg by taking a boat ride on shorter routes,
such as Rabaul–Duke of York Islands or Kavieng–New Hanover.
travel four domestic sectors for US$375 (not erally don’t take travellers, it’s worth trying
including taxes and charges). The pass must your luck. Lae on the north coast is the main
It’s best to have previous experience of the open ocean. Being out at sea with no landmarks be purchased prior to arrival in PNG. shipping hub in PNG, and it’s the best place
is quite intimidating. Between the Shortlands and Gizo, there’s a one- to three-hour period
of time (depending on the weather conditions) when you can really feel that sense of empti-
to look; ask around the port to see what’s
ness. You need to be self-confident.
BICYCLE going. You’ll almost always have more luck
In the odd town or island, such as New Ireland, getting on a freighter by talking directly to
Choose a boat in good shape, equipped with a powerful engine (minimum 40Hp, but it’s possible to rent a bike (about K20 per day), the ship’s captain (and perhaps investing in
preferably 60Hp), and with two drivers. but don’t expect anything flash. a few SP Lagers) rather than the office people.
Avoid boats that are overloaded – risks of capsizing are greater. Accommodation is usually in a spare cabin
Check the equipment on board: ask about the number of lifejackets (one per person). BOAT and you should ask about food and water
Island hopping through PNG and the (you’ll probably have to BYO). Bring plenty
Be sure to register at the police station in Lofung and let them know your whereabouts.
Should something go wrong during the crossing, at least some officials will know about it.
Solomons is a pretty cool way of travelling, to keep yourself entertained as freighter
especially if you have no concern for time. ‘schedules’ are unreliable due to delays in
Never do this crossing in bad weather. Unless you take a cruise, the only certainties loading/unloading cargoes. If freighters load
Bring waterproof bags to secure your passport, money and camera gear, as well as a raincoat. of travelling this way are that you’ll have a (or expect to load) dangerous cargo such as
The boats that ply this route have no roof so you’re exposed to the elements. truly memorable, exotic experience, and you’ll petrol, they will not accept passengers.
Bring water, food and sunscreen. spend a lot of time sitting under palm trees If you don’t have time to sit around waiting,
waiting for your freighter, banana boat, luxury there are regular passenger services linking
yacht or outrigger canoe to finally set sail. But the island provinces with Lae and, to a lesser
their international ticket (so don’t forget Following is a summary of other deals. hey, life could be worse. extent, Madang.
it). This is the only discount available if If these tickets are purchased outside PNG The main ways of getting around by sea Several boats have recently started sched-
you’re buying the ticket outside PNG; it’s they’re GST-exempt. Some are not applicable are by large boats, small boats, charters and uled services to the islands of Milne Bay (see
valid year-round. at peak times such as Christmas and Easter. yacht crewing. p113), making those more accessible than they
316 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e 317
have been for years. There are no passenger place at the right time but, with patience, you CAR & MOTORCYCLE Avis (%324 9400; www.avis.com.pg)
vessels linking the north and south coasts or could travel the whole coastline by village Driving yourself around PNG and/or the Hertz (%302 6822; [email protected])
any running along the south coast. hopping in small boats. Solomon Islands is not really a viable way of Travel-Car (%323 9878; queenemmalodge@daltron
The main operators along the north coast Trade boats – small, wooden boats with travelling. PNG really only has one road – the .com.pg)
and to the islands are Lutheran Shipping (%472 thumping diesel engines – ply the coast, sup- Highlands Hwy – that connects two or more
2066 in Lae, 852 2577 in Madang, fax 852 3641; luship.madang plying trade stores and acting as ferries. They places you might want to visit, and in the The Solomon Islands has less than 1500km
@global.net.pg) and Rabaul Shipping (Star Ships; are irregular but if you’re prepared to wait, Solomons you need no more explanation than of roads. Cars can be hired in Honiara, but
%982 1070/1071, fax 982 1955 in Rabaul; rabship@star they can get you to some off-the-track places. the ‘Islands’ part of the country’s name. nowhere else.
ships.com.pg). Based in Lae, Lutheran Shipping Don’t expect comfort, bring your own food In PNG it’s pointless bringing your own
has a virtual monopoly on passenger shipping and make sure the operator is trustworthy vehicle as even a dirt bike would need to be Insurance
along the north coast. Boats run at least once before you commit yourself to a day or two shipped between many locations due to the Most hire companies supply full insurance as
a week from Lae to Oro Bay, Finschhafen, aboard. If you’re in a major centre, such as lack of roads. The same applies to buying a standard in their rental agreements, but be
Madang, Kimbe and Rabaul. From Rabaul Alotau, ask around the port and at the big sure to ask before you drive off. This is par-
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TRANSPORT
there are regular boats to Kavieng and stores, which might have a set schedule for You could, however, hire a car or 4WD in ticularly important as some travel insurance
Manus. Schedules are released at the end of delivering supplies to the area’s trade stores. Lae or Madang for the trip up the Highlands policies don’t cover driving off-road.
the month for the following month, and you Negotiate the fee before you leave. Hwy, or perhaps to drive around New
can only make a booking once the sched- For shorter distances, there are dinghies Ireland. All the major cities have an array of Road Conditions
ule is out. Even then, the departure is far with outboard motors, often known as speed- car-hire companies. Perhaps the most pertinent point about the
from guaranteed. ies or banana boats. These are usually long roads in PNG is that there aren’t very many.
Some boats carry cargo and passengers and fibreglass boats that leap through the waves Driving Licence Port Moresby, for example, is not linked by
have tourist class (air-conditioned seats and and are bone-jarringly uncomfortable. The Any valid overseas licence is OK for the first road to any other provincial capital except
berths) and deck class (air-vented seats and cost of running outboard motors makes them three months you’re in PNG. International Kerema, and that road is subject to seasonal
berths). Deck class can get crowded; both expensive if you have to charter one, but there driving permits are accepted in the Solomons, difficulties. The most important road is the
classes have video ‘entertainment’ and it’s will often be a PMV boat (a public transport as are most driving licences. People drive on Highlands Hwy, which runs from Lae to Lake
worth avoiding bunks near the video. There boat; see p318) with reasonable fares – about the left-hand side. Kopiago, via Goroka, Mt Hagen and Tari.
sometimes are simple snack bars which might K20 to K30 per hour’s travel. Note, banana Madang is also connected to the highway
be just someone with soft drinks in a cooler boats are no fun at all when the wind picks Fuel & Spare Parts via the Ramu Hwy. In 2008 the long-antici-
and a carton of kundu crackers. Students are up and the open seas should be avoided. And Fuel can be hard to find and is expensive. In pated Southern Highlands Gulf Highway will
sometimes entitled to discounts. the wind can pick up with little warning. We PNG a litre of petrol costs K3.30, while diesel connect Kikori in the Gulf Province to the
In the Solomons cargo ships leave Honiara did a trip once returning from the Duke of is K3.90 per litre in cities, but expect prices to Highland Highway near Mendi.
in all directions and it’s best to ask at the Yorks back to Kokopo. The weather looked rise dramatically once you leave town. As for The road conditions are variable, to say
wharf or check at the Marine Office (%21609) fine when we left but pretty soon the boat’s spare parts, start praying. the least. Many are full of potholes and only
to see what’s going. Wings Shipping (%22811 in pilot was zigzagging around the crests of 3m passable by 4WD, and only then in the dry.
Honiara) services Western Province and Malaita, waves and we were wet to the bone – it was Hire Others are recently sealed all-weather affairs.
Transwest Shipping (%60240, fax 60421 in Gizo) goes genuinely terrifying! People die reasonably Four-wheel drives can be hired in most PNG If you’re planning on getting out of the towns,
to Western Province and Choiseul, and Isabel frequently in open-sea banana-boat crossings; cities, including on the islands, and in Lae a 4WD is a necessity.
Development Corporation (%22126, fax 22009 in try to stay within sight of shore. and Port Moresby you can hire a plain old car.
Honiara) goes to Santa Isabel. For shorter distances, such as from Tufi to You must be 25 to hire a car and have either a Road Hazards
the surrounding villages, you might take an credit card or K2500 cash as a deposit. Hiring Roads in PNG come with a range of hazards.
Passenger Boats outrigger canoe and will be expected to assist anything will cost you an arm and probably There is the deterioration factor: many are
In the Solomons two relatively new vessels – with the paddling. both legs, and the rates are even higher when becoming almost impassable due to lack of
fast, clean and efficient – are making a big dif- you add the per-km charges, insurance and maintenance. There’s the wet-season factor:
ference to inter-island travel and for the first Yacht Crewing tax. For example, a compact car (the cheapest it rains, you get bogged. And then there’s that
time ‘Sol Air’ has some competition. The MV While there are thriving yacht clubs located option) costs from K175 per day, plus K0.80 one you can’t do much about: the raskol (ban-
Pelican Express and MV Solomons Express (%28104, in Port Moresby (www.rpyc.com.pg), Lae (%472 per kilometre, plus 10% VAT, plus any fee for dit) factor. Your chances of being held up are
28064; [email protected]) have bucked the trend 4909; [email protected]), Wewak (%856 2708), personal insurance. A 4WD is about K250 admittedly quite slim, but it’s worth reading
of the slow and smelly diesel freighters that Rabaul (%982 1299; [email protected]), Honiara per day plus K1.35 per kilometre. Probably the Dangers & Annoyances section (p291) for
have been sailing between Solomons’ waters (%22500) and Gizo (%76004; (www.gizoyachtclub the cheapest way of hiring is with an accom- tips on what to do if it happens to you.
for ages. They run between Honiara, Malaita .com.sb), in practice it’s very hard to get a crew- modation and car-rental package; Coral Sea Bear in mind the tourist office’s recom-
and Western Province. ing berth on a yacht even if you have some Hotels (www.coralseahotels.com.pg) and Budget do mendations if you are involved in an accident:
experience. Yachties are sometimes looking some good deals. don’t stop, keep driving and report the acci-
Small Boats for people to share costs and for the com- One-way rentals are available at locations dent at the nearest police station. This applies
In addition to the freighters and passenger pany. You could try contacting the yacht along the Highlands Hwy. The following com- regardless of who was at fault or how serious
boats, local boats and canoes go literally every- clubs directly or try the bulletin boards at panies have offices around PNG; see destina- the accident (whether you’ve run over a pig
where. For these you have to be in the right www.noon site.com. tion chapters for details. or hit a person). Tribal concepts of pay back
© Lonely Planet Publications
318 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • T o u r s 319
apply to car accidents. You may have insur- by the driver’s assistant, aka ‘conductor’, in a There’s no real science to using PMVs; just particular interest are the specialist tours
ance and you may be willing to pay, but the machine-gun-style staccato. turn up at the designated departure point catering to those with a penchant for watch-
local citizenry may well prefer to take more PMVs have a crew of two: the driver, who and wait for it to fill up. Many rural routes ing wildlife, bird-watching, trekking and
immediate and satisfying action. usually maintains an aloof distance from the have only one service a day so ask around village-based tours. Smaller operators are
passengers; and the conductor, who takes fares a day ahead for the intelligence on when usually cheaper and offer a more personal
Road Rules and copes with the rabble. On most occasions, it leaves and from where (usually the local experience, though not necessarily a better-
Cars drive on the left side of the road. The the conductor sits in the seat nearest the door, market). It might also save you waiting for organised trip – try to contact them before
speed limit is 60km/h in towns and 80km/h so when the PMV stops, he’s the man to ask hours as most PMVs start in one town very coming to PNG and allow a couple of weeks
in the country. Seat belts must be worn by the about the destination. If it’s heading in the early in the morning, drive to another (usu- organisation time.
driver and front-seat passengers. Most cars right direction and there’s a centimetre or two ally larger) town, then wait a couple of hours The following companies have good repu-
won’t have seat belts in the back. of spare space, you’re on. Don’t be surprised if while the morning’s passengers go to market tations. For tours of the Kokoda Track, see
you have to wait for your change; it will come before returning. p93, and for bigger companies, see p311.
HITCHING when the conductor gets his change sorted. Out of town you can assume that anything Paradise Adventure Tours (%542 1696; www
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TRANSPORT
Hitching is an important part of travelling in If you tell the conductor where you want with lots of people in it is a rural PMV. The .paradisetours.com.pg) This Mt Hagen-based operation has
the region. The lack of scheduled transport to go he’ll let the driver know when to stop. conductor will tell you where it’s headed and had good feedback on its Highlands, Sepik and bird-
means jumping onto a bus, truck, tractor, In town, PMVs usually cost 70t per trip, take your money, usually at or just before the watching tours. Good value.
outrigger, freighter, plane – or whatever else irrespective of length. end of the trip. If you want to get off before PNG Frontier Adventures (%856 1584/1400; www
is going your way – is a time-honoured way the end, just yell ‘stop driver!’. Market days .pngfrontieradventures.com) These guys are Sepik experts.
of getting around. You’ll often be expected to Taxi (usually Friday and Saturday) are the best days They can provide everything from a single guide to a full-
pay the equivalent of a PMV fare. If your bag Considering PNG’s reputation for noctur- for finding a ride. On secondary roads, traffic blown tour. Recommended.
is light, it’s also sometimes possible to hitch nal danger, it’s surprising there are not more can be thin, especially early in the week. PNG Highland Tours (%732 1602; png.gold@global
flights at small airports. taxis. Port Moresby and Alotau have plenty Most of the time, travelling in a PMV is .net.pg) A range of Highlands tours organised by the
Keep in mind that hitching is never entirely and there are two in Vanimo. That’s it. Lae, perfectly safe; your fellow passengers will be friendly Norman Carver, including climbs of Mt Wilhelm.
safe in any country. Travellers who decide to Wewak, Madang, Popondetta, Goroka and most impressed you’re with them and not in PNG Trekking Adventures (%325 1284; www.png
hitch are taking a small but potentially serious Mt Hagen have no taxis, making it difficult to some expensive 4WD. There is, of course, a trekkingadventures.com) This operator offers the usual
risk, and solo women should absolutely not get around after dark when you don’t want to risk of robbery, especially on the Highlands Kokoda Track fare, but also some interesting guided treks
hitch in PNG or the Solomon Islands. People be walking. To fill the gap, hotels often have Hwy. Lone women travellers are also at greater up Mt Wilhelm, the Wilhelm–Madang walk, the Black Cat
who choose to hitch will be safer if they travel minibuses that will run you around. risk and should think twice about travelling Track and a Milne Bay War History walk.
in pairs and let someone know where they are If you do manage to get a taxi you’ll find by PMV. If you do, find a vehicle with women Sepik Adventure Tours (%856 2525; www.ambunti
planning to go. most of them are complete clunkers – wind- passengers and get a seat nearby. lodge-sepiktour.com.pg) Alois Mateos has vast experience
screens that look like road maps, broken and knowledge of the Sepik and can arrange all manner of
LOCAL TRANSPORT IN URBAN AREAS seats, smelly drivers, no radios. Prices aren’t Costs tours. A genuinely nice guy.
Local transport is not particularly sophisti- excessive (starting at about K5 and averag- PMVs are refreshingly cheap. For example,
cated in PNG and the Solomons. The vast ma- ing about K2 per kilometre) but you’ll have from Lae to Madang costs K40; from Madang WALKING
jority of trips are made by minibuses known to negotiate the fare before you get in, and to Goroka is K40 and Mt Hagen to Madang The best and cheapest way to come to grips
as PMVs (public motor vehicles), though in don’t expect to be offered change when you is K60. Remember that oil price fluctuations with PNG is to walk (see p288). With a judi-
a few places you’ll find more exotic means of get out. The one shining exception is Scarlet affect the whole world…not just the price of cious mix of walks, canoes, PMVs, coastal
transport, such as outrigger canoes for getting Taxis (%323 4266) in Port Moresby, where the fuel in your home town. ships and the odd plane, PNG can change
around Tufi or dugout canoes for paddling cars and drivers are (mostly) clean and well- from a very expensive country to a reasonable
between villages on the Sepik River. They op- kept, there is a radio dispatch network and TOURS one. Accommodation and food is normally
erate on the same principal as a PMV; they’re the meters work. From rough-and-ready village tours to available in the villages – meaning floor space
cheap and leave when full. In the Solomons, Honiara has plenty of luxury-lodge and cruise-boat affairs, there and sago or sweet potato. See p284 for infor-
A few (and only a very few) towns and taxis and Gizo and Auki have a few. is a PNG tour to suit almost everyone. Of mation on staying in villages.
islands rent battered bikes to travellers for a
few kina a day. PMV
PMV is the generic term for any type of public
Minibus (PMV) transport and wherever there are roads, there
In most urban areas a fleet of minibuses, will be PMVs. Whether it’s a dilapidated mini-
universally known as PMVs, provides pub- bus, a truck with two facing wooden benches,
lic transport along a network of established a tractor in the Solomons, a pick-up with no
routes. Stops are pre-determined and are often seats whatsoever but space in the tray, or any
indicated by a yellow pole or a crowd of wait- other means of transport (boats are also re-
ing people. You can’t just ask to be let off ferred to as PMVs), the PMV is one of the keys
anywhere. The destination will be indicated to travelling cheaply in PNG. It’s also one of
by a sign inside the windscreen or called out the best ways to meet local people.
© Lonely Planet Publications
320 lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • Av a i l a b i l i t y & C o s t o f H e a l t h C a re 321
HEALTH
It is a good idea to carry a medical and first- place to start. The World Health Organisation
malaria and saltwater crocodiles. The region these facilities.
aid kit with you. Following is a list of items publishes a superb book called International
is rabies-free. Private medical practitioners will usually
you should consider packing. Travel and Health, which is revised annually
Both countries lie in the tropics and are expect payment in cash. Consultation fees
acetaminophen (paracetamol) or and is available online at www.who.int/ith at
under-resourced in terms of medical in- for a general practitioner are often slightly
aspirin* no cost.
frastructure. Although steadily improving, less than those charged in a Western country.
adhesive or paper tape Other websites of general interest are MD
overall standards of health and healthcare Where hospital facilities (government or
anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen) Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which pro-
are not good. private) exist, a cash deposit will be re-
antibacterial ointment (prescrip- vides complete travel health recommendations
tion only, eg Bactroban) for cuts and for every country, updated daily, also at no quired. In the Solomons, payment by credit
BEFORE YOU GO abrasions
antibiotic plus steroid eardrops (pre-
cost; the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
(www.cdc.gov); Fit for Travel (www.fitfor travel.scot.nhs
card to a government institution may not be
accepted. Public hospital outpatient services
Prevention is the key to staying healthy while scription only, eg Sofradex, Kenacort .uk), which has up-to-date information about are free or of negligible cost, but apart from
abroad. See your dentist before departing, otic) outbreaks and is very user-friendly; and serious emergencies waiting time can be
carry a spare pair of contact lenses and antibiotics (prescription only), eg cip- www.traveldoctor.com.au, which is a similar very long.
glasses, and take your optical prescription rofloxacin (Ciproxin) or norfloxacin Australian site. Commonly used drugs, including oral
with you. Bring medications in their origi- (Utinor, Noroxin) It’s also a good idea to consult your govern- contraceptives and antibiotics, are available
nal, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg loperamide) ment’s travel health website before departure, in the main centres where there are private
dated letter from your physician describing antihistamines (for hay fever and allergic if one is available: pharmacies, but do not expect large supplies.
your medical conditions and medications, reactions) Australia (www.dfat.gov.au/travel/) If necessary, special drugs can be flown in.
including generic names, is also a good idea. antigiardia tablets (prescription only, eg Canada (www.hc-sc.gc.ca/pphb-dgspsp/tmp-pmv/pub For diabetics, it may not be possible to ob-
If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to tinidazole) _e.html) tain exactly the type of insulin preparation or
have a physician’s letter documenting their antimalaria pills UK (www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/index.htm) drug that you are using and, although alterna-
medical necessity or obtain a prepared pack bandages (including a long compression USA (www.cdc.gov/travel/) tives will be available, it is much safer to have
from a travel health clinic. bandage), gauze, gauze rolls, waterproof enough of your own supply. The more up-to-
dressings FURTHER READING date antiepileptics and antihypertensives may
INSURANCE DEET-containing insect repellent for the Good options for further reading in- also be hard to find.
If your health insurance doesn’t cover you skin clude Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children Tampons and pads can be easily ob-
for medical expenses abroad, consider sup- iodine tablets (for water purification) by Cathy Lanigan, and Healthy Travel tained in major centres. In smaller centres
plemental insurance. Find out in advance oral rehydration salts (eg Gastrolyte, Australia, New Zealand and the Pacific by Dr they may have been sitting on the shelf for
if your insurance plan will make payments Diarolyte, Replyte) Isabelle Young. some time.
322 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • T r a v e l l e r ’ s D i a r r h o e a 323
Private dentists practice in Port Moresby. INFECTIOUS DISEASES avoidance of alcohol. The vaccine is almost
Elsewhere, limited government dental serv- Dengue Fever 100% protective. DRINKING WATER
ices may be available. Dengue fever is spread through mosquito bites. To prevent diarrhoea, a sensible precaution
Medical help will be available within a It causes a feverish illness with headache and Hepatitis B is to avoid tap water unless it has been
day’s journey. Self-medication for minor severe muscle pains similar to those experi- Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a virus causing boiled, filtered or chemically disinfected
skin infections or cuts and for simple di- enced with a bad, prolonged attack of influenza. liver inflammation, but this virus is more seri- (with iodine tablets) and to steer clear of
arrhoea is reasonable. In the case of fever There might also be a fine rash. Mosquito bites ous and often progresses to chronic liver dis- ice. The municipal water supply in capital
in a malarious area it is always best to try should be avoided whenever possible – always ease and even cancer. It is spread, like HIV, by cities in both countries, and in the majority
and rule malaria out. If you don’t have a use insect repellents. Self-treatment includes mixing body fluids through sexual intercourse, of towns in PNG, can be trusted. If you’re
diagnostic kit (which is not foolproof any- paracetamol, fluids and rest. Danger signs are contaminated needles and accidental blood trekking, drink only from streams at a higher
way), almost all clinics will have the ability prolonged vomiting, blood in the vomit, and/or contamination. Treatment is complex and spe- altitude than nearby villages – local guides
to do a blood-smear check. Your medical a blotchy dark red rash. Dengue fever is not a cialised but vaccination is highly effective. know which water is safe.
adviser may have decided to prescribe self- danger in the Highlands.
treatment medication for malaria rather than HIV/AIDS
preventive antimalarials, in which case you HIV infection is on the rise in the whole ical insect repellents, knockdown insecticides
Filariasis and, where necessary, bed nets impregnated
should still try to get an accurate diagnosis Also known as elephantiasis, filariasis (found region of West Melanesia. Government re-
and certainly get to a major medical centre ports usually underestimate the extent of the with permethrin) and taking antimalarial
only in the Solomon Islands) is another
for treatment. problem, so when the international confer- drugs before, during and after risk exposure.
mosquito-transmitted disease. It can cause
The region is generally not an ideal ences discuss the incidence reaching epidemic No antimalarial is 100% effective.
a fever with lymph gland enlargement, and
holiday destination for a pregnant woman. proportions you can take it that the danger of Malaria causes various symptoms but the
prolonged exposure (over a period of months)
Malaria can cause miscarriage or premature unprotected sex is huge. Condom use is essen- essence of the disease is fever. In a malarious
can lead to chronic limb swelling. Though
labour and prevention cannot be guaranteed tial. If you require an injection for anything zone it is best to assume that fever is due to
rare, it hasn’t been eliminated and is another
even when taking antimalarials. As far as check that a new needle is being used or have malaria unless blood tests rule it out. This ap-
reason for anti-mosquito precautions. It’s
vaccinations are concerned, the three rec- your own supply. plies up to a few months after leaving the area
treated with the drugs albendazole or iver-
ommended ones (for hepatitis A, hepatitis as well. Malaria is curable if diagnosed early.
mectin. These drugs are used by governments
HEALTH
Japanese B Encephalitis
HEALTH
B and typhoid fever) do not contain live in periodic mass-treatment campaigns, and
organisms so are not a problem, but the long-stay expats who are offered this would This disease, found in the southern region of Typhoid Fever
mumps/measles/rubella vaccine does con- PNG including Port Moresby, but excluding Sporadic in the region, typhoid fever is a bac-
be wise to accept.
tain live virus material and should not be the Highlands, is a serious virus transmitted by terial infection acquired from contaminated
given during pregnancy. Also, because of mosquitoes. Early symptoms are flu-like and food or water or both. The germ can be trans-
Hepatitis A this is usually as far as the infection goes, but mitted by food handlers and flies, and can be
possible allergic reactions, Japanese B en- Hepatitis A is a virus causing liver inflam-
cephalitis vaccination is not recommended sometimes the illness proceeds to cause brain present in inadequately cooked shellfish. It
mation. Fever, debility and jaundice (yellow causes fever, debility and late-onset diarrhoea.
during pregnancy. colouration of the skin and eyes, together with fever (encephalitis), which has a high death
rate. There is no specific treatment. Effective Untreated it can produce delirium and is oc-
Travel with children can present special dark urine) occur and recovery is slow. Most
vaccination is available (involving three costly casionally fatal, but the infection is curable
problems. In tropical climates, dehydration people recover completely over time but it
inoculations over a month). Allergic and sensi- with antibiotics. Vaccination is moderately
develops very quickly when a fever and/or can be dangerous to people with other forms
tivity reactions to the vaccine, though rare, can effective but care with eating and drinking is
diarrhoea and vomiting occur. Malaria is of liver disease, the elderly and sometimes to
occur. Vaccination is usually recommended for equally important.
much more dangerous to children than to pregnant women in their third trimester. It is
adults, as is dengue fever. Insect repellents spread by contaminated food or water. Self- anyone staying more than a few weeks and/or
are essential. going to work in villages. Yaws
treatment consists of rest, a low-fat diet and This is a bacterial infection found in Solomon
Malaria Islands that causes multiple skin ulcers. It was
Malaria, found in all areas of PNG below thought to have been eliminated, but there
REQUIRED & RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS 1000m, and in the Solomon Islands (except has been a recent resurgence. The infection
When travelling to PNG and the Solomon Islands, vaccination for yellow fever (and the certificate the outlying atolls and Honiara), is a parasite spreads via direct contact with an infected
to prove it) is required if you are entering from a yellow fever-endemic country. Vaccinations are infection transmitted by infected anopheles person. Treatment with penicillin produces
also recommended for hepatitis A, hepatitis B and typhoid fever. For PNG, it is also recommended mosquitoes. While these mosquitoes are re- a dramatic cure.
that some visitors are vaccinated against Japanese B encephalitis. garded as night feeders they can emerge when
All vaccinations can produce slight soreness and redness at the inoculation site, and a mild light intensity is low (eg in overcast conditions TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA
fever with muscle aches over the first 24 hours. These are less likely with hepatitis A inoculations under the jungle canopy or the interior of dark Diarrhoea is caused by viruses, bacteria or
and a little more common with hepatitis B and typhoid inoculations. Japanese B encephalitis huts). Both malignant (falciparum) and less- parasites present in contaminated food or
vaccine has been associated with allergic reactions that require an antihistamine. Yellow fever threatening but relapsing forms are present water. In temperate climates the cause is
vaccine is dangerous for anyone with an allergy to eggs and in about 5% of cases causes a flu- here. Since no vaccine is available you’ll have usually viral, but in the tropics bacteria or
like illness within a week of vaccination. to rely on mosquito-bite prevention (including parasites are more usual. If you develop di-
exposing as little skin as possible, applying top- arrhoea, be sure to drink plenty of fluids,
324 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s 325
preferably an oral rehydration solution (eg TREATMENT The notorious box jellyfish (seawasp) has is probably the main cause of decompression
Diarolyte, Gastrolyte, Replyte). A few loose Treat mild symptoms by resting at the same been recorded in the waters of the Torres illness (the ‘bends’). Early pains may not be
stools don’t require treatment, but if you start altitude until recovery, usually a day or two. Straits, but much more common are the severe and may be attributed to other causes,
having more than four or five stools a day, you Take paracetamol or aspirin for headaches. If whip-like stings from the blue-coloured Indo- but any muscle or joint pain after scuba diving
should take an antibiotic (usually a quinolone symptoms persist or become worse, however, Pacific man o’ war. If you see these floating in must be suspect. Keeping well hydrated helps
drug) and an anti-diarrhoeal agent (such as immediate descent is necessary – even 500m the water or stranded on the beach it is wise prevent the bends.
Loperamide). If diarrhoea is bloody, persists can help. The most effective treatment for se- not to go into the water. The sting is very At the time of writing, privately run com-
for more than 72 hours or is accompanied vere AMS is to get down to a lower altitude as painful and is best treated with vinegar or ice pression chambers could be found at Port
by fever, shaking, chills or severe abdominal quickly as possible – any delay could be fatal. packs. Do not use alcohol. Moresby and in Honiara, but transport to a
pain, seek medical attention. The drugs acetazolamide (Diamox) and Poisonous cone shells abound along shal- chamber can be difficult. Supply of oxygen
dexamethasone are recommended by some low coral reefs. Stings can be avoided by han- to the chambers is sometimes a problem.
Giardiasis doctors for the prevention of AMS. However, dling the shell at its blunt end and by using Novice divers must be especially careful.
A parasite present in contaminated water, their use is controversial. While they can re- gloves. Stings mainly cause local reactions, Even experienced divers should check with
giardia produces bloating as well as a foul- duce the symptoms, they may also mask warn- but nausea, faintness, palpitations or difficulty organisations like Divers’ Alert Network (DAN;
smelling, persistent, although not ‘explo- ing signs; severe and fatal AMS has occurred in breathing are signs that flag the need for www.danesap.org) about the current site and sta-
sive’, diarrhoea. One dose (four tablets) of in people taking these drugs. Drug treatments medical attention. tus of compression chambers, and insurance
Tinidazole usually cures the infection. should never be used to avoid descent or to Sea snakes may be seen around coral reefs. to cover costs.
enable further ascent. They are extremely unlikely to attack and their
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS fangs will not penetrate a wetsuit. Food
Acute Mountain Sickness Bites & Stings Only eat fresh fruits or vegetables if cooked or
Areas of PNG’s Highlands higher than LAND CREATURES Coral Ear peeled; be wary of dairy products that might
2500m, including Mt Wilhelm (4509m), are Snakes (eg the death adder or highly venom- This is a common name for inflammation of contain unpasteurised milk. Eat food that is
high enough for acute mountain sickness ous taipan) seldom attack humans without the ear canal. It is caused by water entering the hot through and avoid buffet-style meals. Food
(AMS), or altitude sickness, to be a risk. Lack reason, so when walking in areas in PNG canal activating any fungal spores that may be in restaurants that are frequented by locals is
of oxygen at high altitudes affects most peo- where visibility is not clear (such as long grass, lying around predisposing to bacterial infection not necessarily safe but most resort hotels have
HEALTH
HEALTH
ple to some extent. Less oxygen reaches the leaf-covered ground or at night), be alert and and inflammation. It usually starts after swim- good standards of hygiene, but individual food
muscles and the brain, requiring the heart careful. Compression by pad and bandage ming but can be reactivated by water dripping handlers can carry infection. Food that is pip-
and lungs to compensate by working harder. over the bite and immobilisation of the limb into the ear canal after a shower, especially if ing hot is usually safe. Be wary of salads.
The major risk factor in AMS is the speed with any form of splint is the first-aid treat- long, wet hair lies over the ear opening.
with which you make your ascent. AMS is ment. Victims should stay still unless there’s It can be very, very painful and can spoil a Heat
a notoriously fickle affliction and can affect no other option. Antivenins are usually avail- holiday. Apart from diarrhoea it is the most This region lies within the tropics so it is hot
even trekkers accustomed to high altitudes. able from major medical centres. common reason for travellers to consult a and for the most part humid.
AMS has been fatal at 3000m, although The redback (jockey spider) is a distinc- doctor. Self-treatment with an antibiotic plus Heat exhaustion is a state of dehydration
3500m to 4500m is the usual range. tive small spider (known for the orange-red steroid eardrop preparation is very effective. associated with salt loss. Natural heat loss
Acclimatisation is vital and usually takes stripe on its back) that can cause a very painful Stay out of the water until the pain and itch is through sweating so it is easy to become
from one to three days. Once you are accli- bite with occasional generalised poisoning have gone. dehydrated without realising it. Thirst is a late
matised to a given height you are unlikely to heralded by marked sweating of the affected sign. Heat exhaustion is prevented by drinking
get AMS at that height, but you can still suc- limb, severe pain, weakness and vomiting. Coral Cuts at least 2L to 3L of water per day and more if
cumb when you travel higher. If the ascent An ice pack is useful as a first-aid measure. Cuts and abrasions from dead coral cause you’re very active. Salt-replacement solutions
is too high and too fast, your body’s com- An antivenin is available – check with local similar injuries to that from any other sort are useful, as muscle weakness and cramps
pensatory reactions may not kick into gear village clinics. of rock, but live coral can cause prolonged are due to salt as well as water loss and can
fast enough. Leeches are present in swampy jungle areas infection. Never touch coral. If you do happen be made worse by drinking water alone. The
Mild symptoms of AMS usually develop and easily fix themselves onto skin. They aren’t to cut yourself on live coral, treat the wound powders used for treating dehydration due to
during the first 24 hours. They tend to dangerous except to the rare person who may immediately. Get out of the water, clean the diarrhoea are just as effective when it is due to
be worse at night and include headache, be allergic. Liberal application of insect repel- wound thoroughly, getting out all the little heat exhaustion. Apart from commercial so-
dizziness, lethargy, loss of appetite, nau- lent to skin, clothing and boots will prevent bits of coral, apply an antiseptic and cover lutions, a reasonable drink consists of a good
sea, breathlessness, difficulty sleeping leech infestation. Pulling a leech off the skin with a waterproof dressing. pinch of salt to a half-litre (pint) of water. Salt
and irritability. More serious symptoms may result in bleeding – it is better to induce tablets can result in too much salt being taken,
include breathlessness at rest, a dry irri- the leech to remove itself by applying an insec- Diving Hazards and can cause headaches and confusion.
tative cough (which may progress to the ticide (or burning it with a cigarette tip!). Because the region has wonderful opportu-
production of pink, frothy sputum), severe nities for scuba diving it is easy to get over- HEAT STROKE
headache, lack of coordination (typically MARINE CREATURES excited and neglect strict depth and time When the cooling effect of sweating fails,
leading to a ‘drunken walk’), confusion, ir- Saltwater crocodile attacks, though rare, are precautions. Few dives are very deep but the heat stroke ensues. This is a dangerous and
rational behaviour, vomiting and eventually well recorded. Crocodiles can swim into tidal temptation to spend longer than safe amounts emergency condition characterised by muscle
unconsciousness. rivers; heed local warnings. of time at relatively shallow depths is great and weakness, exhaustion and mental confusion.
© Lonely Planet Publications
326 I N P N G & S O L O M O N I S L A N D S • • T r a d i t i o n a l M e d i c i n e lonelyplanet.com
Skin will be hot and dry. ‘Put the fire out’ by TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
cooling the body with water on the outside Treatments involving local herbs, roots and
and with cold drinks for the inside, then seek leaves have evolved over centuries, with each
medical help. village having their own traditional healers.
Some of these folk remedies have effective
Sunburn ingredients, and governments and research
Exposure to the ultraviolet rays of the sun institutions are researching many of them.
causes burning of the skin with accompany- Claims such as AIDS cures and aphrodisiacs
ing pain and misery and the danger of skin can be ignored. Tree-bark concoctions for
cancer. Cloud cover does not block out UV fever are like aspirin. Chinese herbs are avail-
rays. Sunburn is more likely a problem for able in all of the main towns.
those taking Doxycycline as an antimalarial. Buai, or betel-nut chewing is widespread
The Australian ‘slip, slop, slap’ slogan (slip on in PNG and Solomon Islands. It has an
a shirt, slop on sunscreen and slap on a hat) is astringent effect in the mouth but claims
a useful mantra. Treat sunburn with cool, wet about other healing properties remain
dressings. Severe swelling may respond to a unproven. Prolonged use predisposes to
cortisone cream. mouth cancers.
HEALTH
© Lonely Planet Publications
327
Language
Many Austronesian languages can be un-
derstood by non-native speakers (ie speak-
CONTENTS ers of other Austronesian PNG languages).
A disticntive feature of these languages is
Who Speaks What Where? 327 that they usually have a number system
Pijin (Solomon Islands) 327 based on five. Various dialects in the High-
Tok Pisin (PNG) 328 lands and Sepik regions are closely related,
non-Austronesian languages that can be
broadly understood across old clan bound-
WHO SPEAKS WHAT WHERE? aries.
After the national pidgins of Papua New In the early days of British New Guinea
Guinea and the Solomons, English is the and then Australian Papua, the local lan-
most universally understood language, but guage of the Port Moresby coastal area,
while it’s quite common in the cities and Motu, evolved into Police Motu, and was
large towns, in rural areas you’ll need some spread through Papua by the native con-
basic pidgin in order to communicate. stabulary. It’s still widely spoken in the
southern Papuan part of PNG and you can
Pidgins easily pick up a Motu phrasebook in Port
Pidgins are very easy for English speakers Moresby. Motu are Polynesian descend-
to get a handle on, and Solomons Pijin is ents, related to other Polynesians from else-
even easier in this regard than PNG Pijin. where in the Pacific.
The Solomons was a British territory and
their Pijin is derived solely from English,
Solomon Islands
Officially, there are 67 listed indigenous
whereas PNG Pijin has elements of German
languages and about 30 dialects in the Solo-
and various tok ples (native tongue, literally
mon Islands. It is quite common for people
‘talk of your place’). PNG Pijin is closer to from villages separated by only a few kilo-
Bislama (of Vanuatu) than it is to Solomons metres to speak mutually incomprehensible
Pijin, and Tok Pisin speakers are easily languages. As a result, the national language
understood in Vanuatu. of the Solomons is Solomon Islands Pijin,
This language guide only includes phrases or Pijin for short.
in the pidgin of PNG, Tok Pisin, as it is
similar enough to Pijin for you to get by. PIJIN (SOLOMON ISLANDS)
LANGUAGE
Listen closely to what people say, use your Early 19th-century sailors stimulated the
English inventively, and you’ll find it easy to evolution of Pijin. The recruitment of labour
communicate in both PNG and the (including Solomon Islanders) from the
Solomons. 1860s to 1900s to work in mines, and in
Oceanic canefields and plantations, spread
Papua New Guinea the language all over the Pacific. By the
More than 800 languages are spoken in 1930s, Pijin was being spoken by mission-
PNG – a whopping 12% of the world’s in- aries in many areas, helping to spread it
digenous languages. Linguists divide these further. While English is now the official
languages into 14 major groups. Austro- language of the administration, many
nesian languages are spoken by a sixth of government staff use Pijin in everyday
PNG’s people and dominate in the islands conversation.
and around the coast. Enga is spoken by Solomon Islands Pijin – like similar
about 165,000 speakers in the Highlands languages in PNG, Vanuatu, West Africa
region, and is the most predominant spo- and along the old China coast – has been
ken native language (tok ples) in PNG. condemned by all and sundry, including
Kuanua, spoken by East New Britain’s Tolai the UN. It has been called ‘baby talk’, a
people, has about 61,000 speakers. ‘bastard language’ and a ‘mongrel lingo’.
328 L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) 329
Pijin speakers use two versions. One is a Note that p and f are virtually inter- Conversation & Essentials
simplified form used by islanders to their BILONG BLO HUSAT? changeable in both spelling and pronuncia- Hello. Gude.
English-speaking employers. The second is In PNG the possessive word bilong is used in tion, as are d and t, j and z. The combination Goodbye. Lukim yu.
the true Pijin, which they use among their almost every sentence. These days In every- kw represents the English ‘qu’. Vowels and Yes. Yes.
fellow countryfolk. Since the 1970s, lin- day usage it’s truncated to a simple ‘blo’ in diphthongs are pronounced clearly, even No. Nogat.
guists have been treating this version with both spoken and common written forms. when unstressed and at the end of a word. Please. Plis.
respect. ‘Bilong’ is still technically correct, but it’s Excuse me/Sorry. Sori.
rapidly becoming an archaic form. a as in ‘art’ Thank you (very Tenkyu (tru).
TOK PISIN (PNG) e as in ‘set’ much).
Tok Pisin (or as it has also been called, New i as in ‘sit’ How are you? Yu stap gut?
Guinea Pidgin English, Tok Boi, Neo- expressive language used in all areas of o as in ‘lot’ I’m well. Mi stap gut.
Melanesian) has its origins in the Pacific daily life, including the PNG parliament, u as in ‘put’ What’s your name? Wanem nem bilong yu?
labour trade. Between 1880 and 1914, education, churches and the media. It has ai as in ‘ais;e’ My name is ... Nem bilong mi ...
thousands of New Guineans worked for been a written language since the 1920s, au as the ‘ou’ in ‘house’ Where are you from? Ples bilong yu we?
periods of three years or more on the Ger- and although an official writing system ex- oi as in ‘boil’ I’m from ... Ples bilong mi ...
man plantations of Samoa, where Pidgin ists (used in the Nupela Testamen and What’s your job? Wanim kain wok bilong yu?
English had developed as the working lan- Wantok newspaper), non-standard spell-
Avoiding Confusion I’m (a/an) ... Mi ...
guage of a multicultural and multilingual Be wary of words that may sound similar to I (don’t) understand. Mi (no) save.
ings still abound. The most widely written
workforce. On returning to New Guinea, English but have a different meaning in More slowly please. Yu tok isi isi plis.
and spoken variety of Tok Pisin is that of Pidgin. For instance, kilim just means to hit
they took with them knowledge of this lan- the Madang region. Can you draw a map? Inap yu wokim/droim map?
guage. Pidgin English also became the lan- (hard); to kill somebody or something you I need help. Mi laikim sampela halp.
Most Tok Pisin words are of English have to kilim i dai.
guage of the plantations the Germans origin, but many words referring to local
established in coastal New Guinea and the Be careful of the sexual phrases – pusim
phenomena originate in local languages man/woman man/meri
islands of the Bismarck Archipelago, where means to copulate with, not to push. And
such as Tolai (spoken around Rabaul). Tok child pikinini
young men from the more remote interior while you can ple tenis (play tennis), ple is
Pisin speakers are tolerant of variation and relative wantok
and the Highlands were employed. Until also a euphemism for intercourse. A man’s
visitors will find the language invaluable trunk or suitcase may be a bokis, but a sister susa
very recently, the majority of Tok Pisin when they move away from the towns and brother brata
woman’s bokis is her vagina, and a blak
speakers had acquired their knowledge of want talk to Papua New Guineans socially. a little liklik
bokis is not a black suitcase but a flying fox
the language as part of their work experi- For a more detailed guide to the pidgin big bikpela
or bat!
ence away from their home village. languages of Oceania, including Solomon You’ll love the standard reply to ‘how far forbidden tambu
Tok Pisin has grown into a language with Islands Pijin and Tok Pisin, get a copy of is it?’: longwe liklik. It doesn’t actually mean
many functions, and is now learned as a Lonely Planet’s Pidgin Phrasebook. a long way or not a long way – it translates Directions
second language in most villages. For a The best places to look for books in Tok more like ‘not too near, not too far’. Where is ...? ... i stap we?
growing number of children in the big Pisin are the Christian bookshops in PNG; Straight ahead. Stret.
towns, it has become creolised (adopted as there is usually one in every town and they Accommodation Turn left/right. Tanim lep/rait.
their first language). The simple plantation have all sorts of literature, including, need- Do you have a single/double room? How far is it? Em i longwe o nogat?
language of the 1920s and 1930s has
LANGUAGE
Is transport
LANGUAGE
less to say, a Pidgin bible. Yu gat rum slip long wanpela/tupela man? I gat bas, teksi samting?
changed into the national language of inde- It is worthwhile buying the Wantok How much is it per night? available?
pendent Papua New Guinea, and as such is weekly newspaper, written entirely in Tok Em i kostim hamas long wanpela de?
used regularly by more than two million Pisin. As well as being a decent newspaper, Can I see the room? behind bihain long
speakers, not only in former German New reading it is a good way to learn the lan- Inap mi lukim rum pastaim? in front of ai bilong
Guinea, but also in former Papua. guage. There are also comic strips, which I like this room. near klostu
The spread of Tok Pisin is due not so are easy to follow even for beginners. EmTV Mi laikim (tru) dispela rum. far longwe
much to deliberate policies (in fact both the broadcasts many programmes in Pidgin, Is there a mosquito net?
German and Australian governments op- which will also help you pick it up. I gat moskita net i stap? Numbers
posed its use for quite some time), but its Where’s the toilet? 1 wan
perceived usefulness as a common language Pronunciation Haus pekpek i stap we? 2 tu
in a country where more than 800 lan- Only a small number of Papua New Guin- I want to stay ... day(s). 3 tri
guages are spoken. Tok Pisin is the major eans speak Tok Pisin as their first language Mi laik stap ... de. 4 foa
lingua franca of PNG, and even in very re- (about 100,000) and they are mainly in I’d like to check out today/tomorrow. 5 faiv
mote villages it’s rare not to find someone towns or non-traditional settlements. Sec- Mi laik bai mi lusim hotel tede/tumora. 6 sikis
who speaks it. ond language Tok Pisin speakers are often 7 seven
Much maligned as a broken English, influenced in their pronunciation and Is there a ...? I gat rum ...? 8 et
bastard language or comic opera talk in grammar by the conventions of their bath/shower waswas (i stap) 9 nain
colonial days, Tok Pisin is a vibrant and mother tongue. laundry bilong wasim (ol) klos 10 ten
© Lonely Planet Publications
330 L A N G UA G E • • T o k Pi s i n ( P N G ) lonelyplanet.com
What time does the Long wanem taim neks ... i go?
I’m looking for ... Mi painim ... next ... leave?
a bank haus mani/benk boat bot
the church haus lotu bus bas
the hospital haus sik plane balus
Glossary
arse tanket – a bunch of tanket leaves stuck into a belt kumul – bird of paradise
to cover a man’s backside; also called arse gras (Highlands) kunai – grass, grassland
kundu – hourglass-shaped drum covered with lizard or
bagarap – broken; literally ‘buggered-up’ snake skin
bagi – red shell necklace used for trade in the kula ring kwik piksa leta – fax; literally ‘quick picture letter’
islands
balus – aeroplane laplap – sarong
banana boat – trade boat or dinghy liklik – small
baret – artificial channel or canal constructed across loops liklik haus – toilet; literally ‘small house’
in a river (Sepik) loloi – rolls of shell money strung on lengths of cane (East
bigman – important man, a leader New Britain)
bikpela – big, great lotu – religious service, worship
bilas – jewellery, decorations, finery lusim – to leave
bilum – string bag
boi – boy malangan – ritual of making totemic figures (also called
BRA – Bougainville Revolutionary Army (Solomon Islands) malangans) to honour the dead; also known as malagan
buai – betel nut masalai – spirit of the bush or water; a devil (East New
buk tambu – the bible Britain and New Ireland)
bukumatula – bachelor house (Trobriand Islands) masta – white adult male (colonial)
bekim moni – ‘payback’ or compensation money mausgras – beard, moustache, whiskers
buli – tinned (bully) beef MEF – Malaitan Eagle Force (Solomon Islands)
meri – wife, woman
dewel – devil misis – European woman
dim dims – white people missinari – missionary
diwai – wood moga – ceremony surrounding the giving away of goods
doba – leaf money (Milne Bay Province) to display one’s wealth (Highlands)
dobu – long house Motu – the indigenous people of the Port Moresby area;
dukduk – spirit and ritual costume the language spoken by these people
garamut – drum made from a hollowed log mumu – traditional underground oven
GRA – Guadalcanal Revolutionary Army (Solomon Islands) mwala – decorated armlets made from cone shells used
for trade in the kula ring islands
haus – house
haus sik – hospital nambawan – number one, the best
haus tambaran – spirit house natnat – mosquito
haus win – open-air structure like a gazebo; literally
‘house of wind’ OPM – Organisasi Papua Merdeka, or Free West Papua
Movement
inap – enough
payback – compensation paid for a wrongdoing, but in
kai bar – cheap takeaway food bar reprisal more than revenge
kaikai – food pikus tri – fig tree
karim leg – courting ceremony involving crossing legs pinis – finish
with a partner; literally ‘carry leg’ (Highlands) pis – fish
kastom – custom pisin – bird
G L OT AS BS A5 R Y
kaukau – sweet potato pitpit – wild sugar cane
kiap – patrol officer (of colonial origin) PMV – public motor vehicle
kina – unit of PNG currency; large shell traded from the pukpuk – crocodile
coast as an early form of currency
kokomo – hornbill bird raskol – bandit, criminal or thief
kula ring – ring of trading islands in Milne Bay Province ria – volcanic fjord, as found near Tufi
332 GLOSSARY
rokrok – frog toea – unit of PNG currency (100 toea = 1 kina); a shell
saksak – sago necklace also used as currency
salvinia – (Salvinia molesta) weed found in many Tok Pisin – the Pidgin language
waterways Tok Ples – local language; first language; pronounced
save – understand, think ‘talk place’
singsing – celebratory festival/dance Tolai – the main inhabitants of East New Britain’s Gazelle
solwara – ocean, sea Peninsula, pronounced ‘tol-eye’
spia – spear tumbuan – large, feather-draped body mask
story board – narrative carving done on a wooden board tupela – two, both
susu – milk, breast turnim het – a courting ceremony involving rubbing
faces together, literally ‘turn head’ (Highlands)
tambaran – ancestral spirit; also called tambuan,
tabaran or tabuan voluntia – volunteer
tambu – forbidden or sacred; shell money (Tolai)
tapa – beaten bark cloth wantok – fellow clanspeople, kith and kin; literally ‘one
taro – tuberous root vegetable similar to a sweet potato talk’ or ‘one who speaks the same language’
tasol – that’s all, only
tee – ceremony where men give away goods to display yam – tuberous root vegetable similar to a sweet
their wealth (Enga) potato
GLOSSARY
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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© Lonely Planet Publications
340 Index (B-D) 341
INDEX
to/from PNG & Solomon Islands B canoes, rafting, sailing New Britain 212 cinema 42-3, see also films David Suzuki Trail 136
307-10 Baeroko Bay 265 Sepik River 191-3 New Ireland Province 228 climate 15, 290-1 de Bougainville, Louis 24-5
within PNG & Solomon Islands Baining people 213, 215 to/from PNG 311 canoes 316 global warming 53-4, 307 de Mendaña y Neyra, Don Alvaro 23-4
312-15 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 to/from Solomon Islands 311 Cape Espérance 260 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142 dengue fever 322
Aitape 187 Bandit 149-50 Bobongara 138 Cape Moem 183 Connolly, Bob 42 D’Entrecasteaux Islands 116-18
Alexishafen 147 bandits, see raskols Bogia 147 Cape Wom International Memorial consulates 293 diarrhoea 323
Alotau 109-13, 110 Bargam 147 Bol 236 Park 183 coral cuts 325 disabilities, travellers with 301-2
Amboin 199 Basilisk Passage 76 Bolubolu 118 car travel 317-18 coral ear 325 diving 55-63, 286-7, 55, 5
Ambunti 194 baskets 47, 241-2 Boluminski Hwy 235-6 cargo cults 33, 34 cormorants 280 Gizo 63, 270-1
Amron 147 bathrooms 301 Bomana War Cemetery 83 Carteret, Captain Philip 24 costs 15-16 Guadalcanal 60
ancestor worship 36 bats 49, 142 Bonegi 259 carvings 45 crafts, see artefacts hazards 325
Anderson, Robin 42 Battle of Milne Bay 88 books 16, 17 buying carvings 298 Crater Mountain Wildlife Management Honiara 253
Anga people 127, 201 Battle of Wau 125 arts 45 Gogdala 46 Area 160 internet resources 62
Anganmai 199 Bau 137 birds 48, 49 Malangan 46, 228 credit cards 297 Kavieng 59, 230-1
Angoram 197-8 Beehives, the 219, 223 Bougainville 30 master carvers 46, 122, 191, 269 cricket 39, 121, 6 Kimbe Bay 59, 226
animals 48-52, see also individual Bellona 281 food 66 Sepik, the 177, 183, 195, 7 crocodiles 48, 208, 324 Kokopo 214-15
species Bellona Province 279-81 Kokoda Track 28, 103 Trobriand Islands 122 Crocodile Festival 194 live-aboard boats 57, 115
books 50, 51 Bensbach 208 travel 16 Wewak 183 cruises 315 Madang 56-7, 142-3
wildlife-watching 53, betel nut 35 wildlife 50, 51 cassowaries 48-9 Crystal Rapids 84 Marovo Lagoon 62-3, 267-8
289 Betikama 258-9 WWII 28 caves cults 33, 34, 36, 120 Milne Bay 58
April (Wara) River 198 bicycle travel, see cycling border crossings 310-11, 314 Benua Cave 241 cultural shows 10, 294, see also muck diving 57, 58, 107, 116, 286-7
Arawa 244 Bilbil 145-6 Botanical Gardens 129 burial caves 140 festivals Munda 61-2, 264
architecture 44 bigmen 34, 35 Bougainville 243-5 Kalopa Cave 120 Bargam Agricultural Show 147 Port Moresby 57, 76
area codes 300, see also inside front bilums 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 books 30 Kantobo 172 Cameron Cultural Show 111 Rabaul 58, 220
cover Bird island 280 itineraries 20 Keu Caves 162 Goroka Show 158 Russell Islands 61
Arnarvon Islands 280 birds 48-51, see also individual Bougainville Revolution Army 29, 241, Loniu Cave 239 Hagita Cultural Show 111 Samarai Island 116
species 245, 314 Manubyai Cave 147 Kundiawa Simbu Show 294 Tawali 115
000 Map pages birds of paradise 50-1, 129, 173, Boulay, Franck 61 Octopus Cave 280 Morobe Show 131 Tufi 57, 107
000 Photograph pages 206, 207 Brahmin 149 Oketemp Cave 188 Mt Hagen Show 166 Tulagi 61, 262
books 48, 49 British East India Company 25 Oksapmin 188 Tufi Cultural Show 107 WWII sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253
342 Index (D-H) Index (H-L) 343
documentaries 42 International Orchid Spectacular 76 Goilala region 90 Honiara 247-58, 252-3 Kaip village 169 Kokopo 213-18, 214
Doini Island 116 Kalam Culture Festival 149 golf accommodation 253-5 Kairiru Island 184 Koliwan, Moses 244
drinks 65 Mabarosa Festival 143 Lae 131 attractions 250 Kaisiga 120 Kolombangara 274
driving 317-18 Malagan Festival 231 Madang 143 diving 253 Kambaramba 198 Komate 261
Duke of York Group 224, 225 Milamala Festival 119 Port Moresby 76 drinking 256 Kambot 198 Konogogo 237
Dutch East Indies Company 24 Milne Bay Kundu & Canoe Wewak 181 entertainment 256-7 Kamiali Wildlife Management Area Konos 236
Festival 111 Gona 106 food 255-6 136-7 Kontu 237
E PNG Coffee Festival 158 Goodenough Island 118 travel to/from 257 Kamina 204 Korogo 194
Earhart, Amelia 26, 128 Warwagira Festival 215 Goroka 156-9, 157 travel within 257-8 Kaminabit 196 Krangket Island 145
East Cape 113-14 yam festivals 184 Govermas 199 Hoskins 225 Kanabea 204 kula ring 117
East Islands 234-5 filariasis 322 Green Island 238 hotels 282-4, see also individual Kanganaman 195 Kuma 261
East New Britain Historical & Cultural films 17, 41, 42, see also cinema Green River 193 locations kangaroos, tree 50, 150 Kundiawa 161-2
Centre 214 Finschhafen 138-9 Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 Hula beach 90 Kangu Beach 245 kundu drums 43
East New Britain Province 213-25 First Contact 27, 42, 153 diving 60 Huli people 170, 173 Kantobo 172 kuru 161
East Sepik Province 178-85 fishing 287 Guinea Airways 312 Huli wigmen 173 Karavia Bay 218 Kwaibala Waterfall 276
Eastern Highlands Province Alotau 111 Gulf Province 201-4, 202-3 Huon Gulf coast 135-8 Karawari River 199 Kwaio people 278
156-61 Baia 227 gun run 314 Karkar Island 150-1 Kwato Island 116
Eastern Island Groups 238 Bensbach 208 Gwado 135 I Kau Rainforest Museum &
economy 12, 36-8 Daru 205 Gwale people 30, 249 Ialibu 171-2 Conservation Area 147 L
ecotourism 54 Honiara 253 Ihu 203-4 Kauage, Mathias 41, 45 Lababia 136
GreenDex 348-9 Kavieng 231 H Indabu 195, 198 Kavieng 229-34, 230 Labi Island 121
electricity 283 Kikori 204 Hansa Bay 148 independence 29 diving 59, 230-1 Labu Lakes 135
elephantiasis 322 Lae 131 Hanuabada 73 initiation rites 36, 197 kayaking 286 Labu Tali Conservation Area 135-6
embassies 293 Marovo Lagoon 268 haus tambarans 36, 44, 195 insurance Kavieng 229, 231 Lae 128-35, 130
emergencies, see inside front cover Ramata 268 headdresses 46 health 320 Loloata Island 90 accommodation 132-3
INDEX
INDEX
Enga Province 168-9 Flannery, Tim 48 head-hunting 23, 201, 228, travel 295 Marovo Lagoon 268-9 attractions 129
Enhanced Cooperation Program 13 Fly River 201, 204, 206 277 internet access 295 Kennedy Island 63, 271 festivals 131
Enoghae 265 flying foxes 49, 52, 140 health 320-6 internet resources 16-18 Kennedy, John F 27, 273 food 133
environment 48-54 Flynn, Errol 16, 22, 87 insurance 320 diving 62 Keram River 198 travel to/from 134
environmental issues 52-4 food 64-7, 294, see also individual internet resources 321 health 321 Kerema 202-3 travel within 134-5
global warming 53-4, 307 locations hepatitis A 322 music 43 Kieta 244 Lae War Cemetery 129-30
Marovo Lagoon 266 books 66 hepatitis B 323 WWII 27 Kikori 204 Laiagam 169
mining 52-3 customs 66 Hermit 240 Isabel 280 Kimbe 225-6 Laing Island 148
Sepik, the 177 football 39 Highlands, the 152-74, 154-5 Island Provinces 209-45, 210-11 Kimbe Bay 226 Lake Govermas 199
ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, 247, 249 Free West Papua Movement 30, 176 Eastern Highlands Province 156-61 itineraries 19-21 diving 59, 226 Lake Kopiago 174
events, see cultural shows, festivals frogs 50, 52 Enga Province 168-9 Kiriwina Island 119-23, 119 Lake Kutubu 172
exchange rates, see inside front fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106 Simbu Province 161-3 J Kitava Island 121 Lake Rau 169
cover Southern Highlands Province Jacquinot Bay 224 Kiunga 206-7 Laloki River Gorge 83
expatriates 38-9 G 169-74 Jais Aben 146-7 Kohinggo island 266 Langa Langa Lagoon 277-8
Gagidu Station 138 Western Highlands Province 163-8 James, Keith 231 Koitabu people 69 Langemack Bay 138
F Galahi Island 116 hiking, see trekking, walking Japanese B Encephalitis 323 Koki 73-4 language 327-30
fax services 300-1 garamuts 43, 45 Hiritano Hwy 84, 89-90 Japanese Barge Tunnels 218 Kokoda 105 food glossary 67
Feni Island 238 Garamut & Flute Festival 181 history 22-32, see also Kokoda Track, Japanese bases 106, 274 Kokoda Buna Historical Foundation Summer Institute of Linguistics
Fergusson Island 118 gay travellers 294-5 WWII Japanese Memorial Peace Park 180 106 160
festivals 294, see also cultural shows Gazelle Peninsula 212, 220, blackbirding 26, 87, 227-8 Japanese Observation Point 258 Kokoda Track 27, 91-105, 92-3, Lapita people 22, 212
Biang Ngayam Cultural Festival 218-19 German settlement 25 Japanese Peace Memorial 220 94-5, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, Lau Lagoon 278
131-2 geography 48 independence 29 jellyfish 325 103, 104 laughing disease 161
Crocodile Festival 194 German New Guinea Company 125, WWI 26 jewellery 46-7 books 28, 103 Lavongai (New Hanover) 234
Enga Festival 168 138, 176, 212, 240 hitching 318 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 history 27, 98-100 Leahy, Mick 27
Garamut & Flute Festival 181 German settlement 25 Hiti people 24 Kokoda Challenge 101 leatherback turtles 135, 136
Hiri Moale Festival 76 Ghizo Island 270-4 HIV/AIDS 323 K maps 93 leeches 324
giardiasis 324 holidays 295 Kaibola village 120 planning 91-5 legal matters 295-6
000 Map pages Gifu 258 Holupuru Falls 265 Kaileuna Island 120 travel to/from 95-6 Lelet Plateau 237
000 Photograph pages Gizo 270-3, 271 Holy Cross Catholic Cathedral 253 Kainantu 160-1 trekking companies 93-5 lesbian travellers 294-5
diving 63, 270-1 Hombrum Bluff Lookout 83 Kaintiba 204 Kokopau 244 Libba 236
344 I n d e x ( L- N ) Index (N-S) 345
Lido 187 maps 296 Mt Bau 265 National Parliament 251 Popondetta 105-7 Rossel (Yela) Island 123
Lihir 238 Kokoda Track 93 Mt Bosavi 172-3 Ndoma 260 population 38-9 Rouna Falls 83
literature, see books Marau Sound 260 Mt Gahavisuka Provincial Park 160 New Britain 212-27, 218-19 Port Moresby 68-84, 70-1 Roviana Lagoon 265
live-aboard boats 57, 115 Mariama 199 Mt Hagen 164-8, 164 East New Britain Province 213-25 accommodation 78-9 Ruaniu 260
logging 52, 54, 185, 266 markets Mt Kis Lookout 158 West New Britain Province 225-7 activities 76 Russell Islands 263
Lola island 265 Gizo 270 Mt Lamanai 118 New Ireland Province 227-38 attractions 73-6 diving 61
Loloata Island 90 Goroka 159 Mt Lamington 29, 106 newspapers 40, 283 Boroko 77
Loloho 244 Honiara 252 Mt Lunaman 130-1 Nggela Islands 261-2 diving 57, 76 S
Long Island 150 Koki 73 Mt Tambu 136 Ninigo 240 drinking 79-80 safe travel 291-2
Los Negros Island 239-40 Kokopo 214-15 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, 222, Nobonob 146 Ela Beach 75 diving 325
Louisade Archipelago 123 Mt Hagen 167 223, 8 Normanby Island 117-18 entertainment 80-1 hitching 318
Lutheran Mission 125 Port Moresby 81 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224 Noro 265 festivals 76 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, 296
Wewak 182-3 Mt Wilhelm 162-3 Northern Malaita Island 278 food 79-80 Saidowai village 118
M Marovo Lagoon 266-70, 267 muck diving 58, 286-7 North Solomons Province shopping 81 Saigara 137
MacGregor, Sir William 26 diving 62-3, 267-8 Samarai Island 116 240-5 tours 76 sailing 231, 234, 315
Madang 140-5, 141 masks 46, 228, 294, 7 Tufi 57, 107 Nusa Roviana 265 travel to/from 81-2 Sal Island 242
diving 56-7, 142-3 Mataniko Falls 258 mud men 159-60 travel within 82-3 Salamaua 136
Madang Province 140-51, Matupit Island 223 Munda 264 O Waigani 77 Salemben 147
126-7 May (Iwa) River 198 diving 61-2, 264 Obweria village 122 postal services 298 Salvinia molesta 177
history 125 Mbanbanakira 261 Murik Lakes 198 Ohu Butterfly Habitat 146 pottery 45, 145-6, 198 Samarai Island 115-16
Madehas Island 242 McDonald’s Corner 83 Muschu Island 184 Ok Tedi Mine 205 printmaking 44-5 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178
Magendo 198 measures 283, see also inside front museums Oksapmin 174, 188 PT boats 108 Sandfly Passage 262
Magi Hwy 90 cover Betikama WWII museum 259 Omarakana 120 Putput 235 Sandline Affair 30, 241
magic practice 34, 35, 41, 278, see medical services 321-2, see also health East New Britain Historical & Ona, Francis 29, 30, 241 Sapeahora 204
also witchcraft Mekeo people 89 Cultural Centre 214 opening hours 290 Q Savo 262-3
INDEX
INDEX
Magiya 147 Mendam 198 JK McCarthy Museum 157-8 Oro Bay 107 Queen Emma’s house 214 sea-kayaking 286
Maio 193 Mendi 170-1 Kau Rainforest Museum & Oro Province 105-8, 86-7 Sepik region 175-88
Makira-Ulawa 280 Menyamya 140 Conservation Area 147 history 86-7 R carvings 177, 183, 195, 7
Malaita Island 274-9 Messi 237 Madang museum 142 Rabaul 219-23, 220 East Sepik Province 178-85, 178
Malaita Province 274-9, 275 metric conversions, see inside front Munda WWII museum P diving 58, 220 environmental issues 177
Malalaua 204 cover 264 Pagwi 194 Rabaul Nakaia 224 initiation rites 197
Malangan 46 Milne Bay Province 109-23, 86-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) painting 44-5 radio 40, 283 Sandaun Province 185-8, 178
malaria 323 diving 58 75-6 Palambei 195 rafting 221, 224 Sepik River 188-99, 8
Malay people 23 Mindimbit 196 National Museum & Cultural Panguna 244 Rainforest Habitat 129 Lower Sepik 197-8, 196-7
Malinowski, Bronsilaw 118, 120 mining 36, 52 Centre (Honiara) 251 Paradise beach 89 Ramu River 148 Middle Sepik 194-7, 196-7
Malmaluan Lookout 219 Bougainville copper mine 12 New Guinea Club & Rabaul Parliament Haus 74-5 Ranongga 274 planning 189-90
Malolo 147 Ok Tedi Mine 205 Museum 219 passports 306 raskols 42, 72, 165, 292, tours 181, 193
Malom 236 Panguna mine 241 Vilu open-air museum 260 Pema 137 296 tributaries & lakes 198-9
Malu’u 278 Porgera mine 168 Wabag cultural centre 168 Peter ToRot’s cemetery & rats 51 Upper Sepik 193-4
Mamara Beach 259 Mioko Island 224 music 43 memorial church 219 Raun Raun Theatre 157 Sepo island 274
Mameri 199 Misima Island 123 Mustar, Pard 312 Phantom, the 34 Reef Islands 280 Seremi village 106
Mana 262 mobile phones 300 phonecards 300 refugee detention centre 239 Sewa Bay 117
Manam Island 148, 151 moga ceremony 171 N photography 297 Regional Assistance Mission to the shark calling 237
Maneba 138 Moim 198 Nagada Harbour 146 Pigeon Island 280 Solomon Islands 13-14, 249 sharks 237
Mangalonga 262 money 15-16, 293, 296-7, see also Nagam 198 Pijin 327-8 religion 40, see also cults, magic shopping 298-9
Manikaraku 260 inside front cover Namatanai 236-8 planning 293, see also practice, witchcraft Shortland Islands 280
Manta Ray Cleaning Station 116 Moresby, Captain John 69 Nateara Reef 76 itineraries ancestor worship 36 Siar Island 145
Manubada (Local) Island 76 Morgan Junction 244 National Botanic Gardens 76 plants 49, 51, see also individual plants Christianity 36, 40, 189, 201 Simbai 149
Manus Island 239 Morobe Province 127-40, 126-7 National Museum (Port Moresby) PMVs 318-19 Rendova 265 Simbo island 274
Manus Province 238-40 mosquitoes 178, 322, 323 75-6 Poha 259 Rennell 279-81, 279 Simbu Province 161-3
Maprik 184-5 Moti, Julian 14, 31 National Museum & Cultural Centre Point Cruz 250 restaurants 65-6, see also individual Simpson Harbour 219
motorcycle travel 317-18 (Honiara) 251 politics 12-14, 30-2 locations Sinasi Reef 76
000 Map pages Motu people 69 national parks 52 ethnic tensions 13, 31, 38, Ringgi 274 skull caves 109, 113, 123, 172
000 Photograph pages Mt Austen Rd 258 Lake Kutubu 172 247, 249 ringtail possums 50 Skull island 265
Mt Balbi 244 Varirata National Park 83 Polynesian people 23 Robinson, Christopher 115 Skyline Drive 252
© Lonely Planet Publications
346 Index (S-W) I n d e x ( W - Y ) 347
Smart, Rae 303 Tembin 237 Tulagi 262 tours 163, 172 Western Province (Solomon Islands) Battle of Wau 125
snakes 50, 324 Temotu Province 280 diving 61, 262 Varirata National Park 83 263-74, 264 books 28
snorkelling, see diving Tenaru 259 turtles 135, 136 Wamol village 168 Wewak 179-83, 180 Bulldog Track 137
Sogavare, Manasseh 13 Teptep 150 TV 42-3, 283 wantoks 37 White Island 242 Coastwatchers’ Memorial beacon 142
Sogeri Rd 83-4 Tetepare Island 266 typhoid fever 323 war memorials White River Village 251-2 dive sites 57, 58, 60, 61-2, 145, 253
Sohano Island 242 textiles 47 Australian War Memorial (Alotau) Wickham, Dorothy 257 fuzzy wuzzy angels 28, 106
solo travellers 299 theatre 43-4 U 110 wigmen 173 internet resources 27
Solomon Islands 246-81, 248 Raun Raun Theatre 152 Uepi 268-9 Australian war memorial wildlife 48-52 itineraries 21
Bellona Province 279-81 Timbunke 196 Ukarumpa 161 (Popondetta) 106 books 50, 51 PT boats 108
Central Province 261-3, 261 time 301, 350-1 Uluputur 237 Cape Wom International Memorial wildlife management areas 52 tours 221, 253, 265
culture 33, 247 toilets 301 Upper Ramu Project 161 Park 183 Balek Wildlife Sanctuary 146 WWII sites & relics
Guadalcanal 247-61, 250-1 Tok Pisin 328-30 Utupua 280 Japanese war memorial (Aitape) 187 Crater Mountain Wildlife Alexishafen 147
history 22 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Japanese war memorial (Poha) 259 Management Area 160 Buin 245
Malaita Province 274-9, 275 207-8 V Memorial Gardens 259 Kamiali Wildlife Management Buka 242
Rennell 279-81, 279 Tore, Tony 74 vacations 295 US war memorial 252 Area 136-7 Buna 106
Western Province 263-74, 264 tourist information 301 vaccinations 320 Waramo 187 Kantobo 172 Cape Moem 183
Solomons Peace Memorial Park tours 319, see also village tours Vanikoro 280 Waria Valley 137-8 Tonda Wildlife Management Area Guadalcanal 259
258 Amboin 199 Vanimo 185-7 Wasi Falls 172 207-8 Kiriwina Island 120
Somare, Sir Michael 13, 32 bird-watching 173-4, 206, 285 Varirata National Park 83 Watam 148 wildlife-watching 53, 289 Kolombangara 274
Songitin eternal flame 188 cultural tours 174, 268, 279 Vella Lavella 274 water 323 Willaumez Peninsula 226 Kokopo 218
Southern Highlands Province 169-74 cycling tours 236 Veuru 260 water hyacinth 177 windsurfing 289-90 Matupit Island 223
souvenirs 299, see also artefacts Goroka 158 village stays 122, 235 Wau 139-40 witchcraft 109, 116, see also magic Salamaua 136
spirit houses 36, 44, 195 Honiara 253 village tours Wawela 120 practice Talasea 226
sports 39, see also cricket Kavieng 231 Amboin 199 weather 15 Wogamush River 198
Stone Dog 265 kayaking 286 Jais Aben 147 tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Wom 198 Y
INDEX
INDEX
string bags 47, 81, 159, 167, 195 Kokoda Track 93-5 Madang 143 Weathercoast 261 Wombun 198 Yabob 145
Suapmeri 194-5 Kwaio people 278 Marovo Lagooon 269 weaving 47 women in PNG 40-1 Yalaka village 122
Summer Institute of Linguistics 160 Lae 129, 131 Mt Hagen 165 websites, see internet resources women in Solomon Islands 40-1 Yambon 193
sunburn 326 Madang 143 Putput 235 weights 283, see also inside front women travellers 304-5 Yamok 194
surfing 21, 287-8 Milne Bay 109, 111 Vilu open-air museum 260 cover work 305 yams 35, 65, 120
itineraries 21 Mt Hagen 165-6 visas 302-3, see also passports West New Britain Province 225 Wuvulu Island 240 Yandina 263
Kavieng 229 Mt Wilhelm 162 volcanoes West New Georgia 263-6 WWI 26 Yaws 323
Los Negros Island 239 Port Moresby 76 Karkar Island 150-1 Western Highlands Province 163-8 WWII 21, 27-8, see also cemeteries, Yentchen 195
Manus Island 239 Rabaul 221 Manam Island 148, 151 Western Province (PNG) 204-8, 202-3 Kokoda Track, museums, war Yessan 193
Vanimo 186 Sepik River 181, 193 Mt Tavurvur 212-13, 218, 219, culture 201 memorials Yip 198
Swagup 193 walking tours 163, 172 222, 223, 8 history 201 Battle of Milne Bay 88 Yule Island 89-90
West New Georgia 264-5 Mt Vulcan 212-13, 219, 224
T wildlife-watching 289 Savo 262
Tabar 238 WWII sites 221, 253, 265 volunteering 303-4
Tabubil 205-8 traditional medicine 326 Vonavona Lagoon 265
Talasea 226 tree kangaroos 50, 150 Vulcanology Observatory 220
Tambanum 196-7 trekking 17, 288-9, see also walking
Tami Island 138 Black Cat Track 137 W
Tanga Island 238 Bulldog Track 137 Wabag 168-9
Tangarere 261 jungle tracks 289 Wagawaga 114
Tari 173 Kokoda Track 91-105 Wagu Lagoon 198
Tavanipupu island 260 Kolombangara 274 Wahgi Valley 168
Tawali 115 Ramu River 149 Waigani 77
taxis 318 tribal art 191 Wakunai 244
Telefomin 188 Trobriand Islands 118-23 walking 319, see also trekking
telephone services 300-1 carvings 122 Ialibu 172
Tsoi Island 234 Madang, to 163
000 Map pages tsunamis 14, 59, 187, 270 Marovo Lagoon 268
000 Photograph pages Tufi 107-8 Mt Wilhelm 162
diving 57, 107 Rabaul 224
© Lonely Planet Publications
348 G r e e n D e x 349
Panatalis Dodor Beach Peles National Parks Board Huts SOLOMON ISLANDS
GREENDEX
GREENDEX
(Bol) 236 (Mt Wilhelm) 163 CENTRAL PROVINCE