Apparel Inspection SOP
Apparel Inspection SOP
Apparel Inspection SOP
TABLE OF CONTENT
1.0 PURPOSE …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 2
2.0 APPLICATION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2
3.0 PRE-INSPECTION ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 2
4.0 CONFIRMATION ………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 2
5.0 SCHEDULING …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 3
6.0 IN-PROCESS INSPECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………………… 3
7.0 FINAL RANDOM INSEPCTION (FRI) ………………………………………………………………………………….. 4-5
8.0 GARMENT MEASUREMENT AND ACCEPTANCE …………………………………………………………………. 5
9.0 REPORTING ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 5-6
10.0 RE-INPECTION …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 7
11.0 INSPECTION CHARGES ………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 7
12.0 CANCELLATION AND TERMINATED INSPECTION POLICY ……………………………………………………. 8
APPENDICES
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
1.0 PURPOSE
To maintain the quality of the product sold to our customers by implementing a standard
operating procedure for apparel inspections.
2.0 APPLICATION
Applies to all apparel inspections conducted for The Dress Barn, Inc., Maurices Incorporated,
Tween Brands, Inc., Catherine’s Stores Corporation and Lane Bryant, Inc. wholly-owned
subsidiaries of Ascena Retail Group, Inc
3.0 PRE-INSPECTION
Inspection will be done following ASCENA GLOBAL SOURCING Inspection Procedures.
3.1 In advance or upon arrival at factory, Inspector should have available to them an
inspection package to be used during inspection, which will include the following
(Inspector should continue performing the inspection if any of the below are not
available and should be reported in the special notes section of the inspection report):
3.1.4 Approved color swatch and/or shade bands (Factory samples are acceptable)
3.1.5 An inspector should never wait more than 2 hours beyond the scheduled
inspection time. If after waiting 2 hours, if the goods are not ready for
inspection, the inspection must be rendered Not Ready. The factory is
responsible for incurred costs and is required to reschedule the inspection at a
later time.
3.1.6 Upon arrival if merchandise has been shipped and is no longer available or
inspector is requested to go to another location, the inspection is rendered Not
Ready. Factory is responsible for incurred costs.
4.0 CONFIRMATION
4.1 The 3rd PARTY SERVICE PROVIDER’S regional coordination center must provide
the Brand confirmation of receipt of inspection information within 1 business
day.
4.2 Regional coordination center should make contact with factory within 2
business days. If after two attempts within 5 business days and no contact has
been made, regional coordination center should contact the Brand.
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
5.0 SCHEDULING
5.1 Approximately 30 days is required for a shipment to arrive to the DC, therefore,
inspections should be scheduled 5-6 weeks prior to the “In DC Date” listed on
the activity recap log (this is not to be confused with x’factory date).
5.2 Scheduling of in-process and final inspections must be consistent with logic and
reasonable production capabilities. Thus, a final inspection must not be
scheduled nor conducted in the day following the in-process inspection unless
the total production quantity is so small it is reasonable that in-process
inspection can be conducted one day then a full final inspection of the
completed product the following day.
5.3 The factory will supply the regional coordination center the production status
including the PO, style # and quantities available. Factory will schedule the in-
process and final inspection dates base on this information. The regional
coordination center will coordinate the inspection scheduling with the factory,
but the authorization/request to conduct in-process and/or final inspection
shall come from the Brand.
5.4 The regional coordination center and factory agree on the inspection date
which is noted on the shared activity recap log. The regional coordination
center will send an updated copy of the activity recap log to the Brand once per
week or as needed.
6.1 The purpose of an in-line inspection is to help a factory, the vendor and the client to
identify potential problems early enough in the manufacturing process that can be
corrected and the quality of the product improved.
6.2 The in-line inspection shall be conducted on finished garments when the production
stage is 0- 20%, or otherwise stated by the Brand, complete and have gone through
the factory’s QC process. The sampling size should be based on the number of finished
units. Garments are not required to be packed.
6.3 Results of this inspection are discussed in detail with the factory management so that
the factory can develop and present to the BRAND a corrective action plan to address
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
any deficiencies found. Note: The 3rd PARTY SERVICE inspector cannot give opinion or
advice regarding how to correct defects.
7.3 If the scheduled style is not 100% complete and 80% packed as required, inspector will
follow the below percentage chart:
Less than 20% complete, issue not ready report
21-80% complete – conduct in-line inspection, final inspection must be
rescheduled
81-99% complete – conduct final inspection, report as FAILED due to
incomplete quantity presented.
7.3 Inspections are conducted in accordance with ANSI/ASQC ZI.4-2008 (formally MIL-STD
105E), Normal Inspection, General Level II. The AQL level is 4.0 for both major and
minor defects and no critical defects are allowed in the shipment. See Appendix A –
4.0 AQL General Inspection Levels.
7.4 Major and minor defects should be listed on a chart to provide a clear overview of
quality to allow the BRAND to analyze the inspection data effectively. The zone where
the defect is located should be listed on the report along with the photo reference if
applicable. See Appendix B for a complete list of apparel major/minor defects and
Appendix C for defect zones.
7.4.1 Critical Defect: Any defect or feature of the product that may pose a safety
hazard to the customer. Zero tolerance will be applied to the acceptable
quantity of critical defects found within a shipment.
7.4.2 Major Defect: Anything that adversely affects the appearance, performance
including fit or customer satisfaction to a degree that would provide a
discerning customer with justification of non-purchase, a return or a complaint
or would be considered not commercially acceptable
7.4.3 Minor Defect: Any variation from the standard that is not sufficient in degree
to be classified as major and that would not provide a discerning customer with
justification for non-purchase a return or complaint.
7.5 Labeling information should be checked against the information provided by the
BRAND. If a label is missing, wording is misspelled or wording is not legible, this is
considered a major defect. Labeling shall be checked on all units in the sampling
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
7.6 Items sold as a set such as a swim suit, pajama or dress/jacket ensemble must be
counted as 1 unit. Sample size does not increase.
7.7 Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a
signed draft copy of the inspection report left with the factory.
7.8 Upon completion of the inspection, Inspector should email the signed draft report to
the BRAND contact for reference.
7.9 Finalized typed inspection reports must be emailed to the appropriate BRAND contact
by the inspector within 24 hours of completion of the inspection. See Appendix D for
BRAND contacts.
7.10 The factory may not ship until the report is reviewed by the BRAND QA and an
acknowledgment is transmitted.
8.1 Tolerances on the BRAND specific graded measurement sheet will be used to
determine measurement defects.
8.2 If a garment has more than one point of measure out of the allowable tolerance the
garment with the measurement defect(s) is only counted once.
8.4 For inspections rejected due to measurement, all garments with the measurement
defects must be sent to the BRAND for review, at the Vendor/Factory expense.
Representative samples should be marked appropriately with defect stickers and
should not be removed prior to shipping the requested samples. For workmanship
defects representative samples are to be included in sealed package and processes for
shipment by factory while inspector is present. Inspector must include airway bill /
shipment number in final inspection report.
9.0 REPORTING
The draft report and all units with defects must be reviewed with the factory manager. The
signed drafted copies should be left with the factory and emailed to the BRAND contact for
reference upon completion. A finalized typed report should be submitted within 24 hours to
the BRAND, Vendor and Factory.
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
9.2.1 To determine whether a defect is major or minor, the following factors will be
considered:
Whether the defect will render the item unsalable.
The severity of the defect.
The location of the defect on the item.
9.2.2 Defects should be identified by an arrow sticker pointing to the defected area
and a photo should be submitted with the inspection report. Stickers must not
leave a residue or mark on the item.
9.2.3 Photos should clearly depict all defects identified in the report. If multiple
garments are found with the same type of defect only one photo is sufficient.
In cases when there is a variance in the severity of a specific defect multiple
photos are required.
9.3 LABELS
Garment labels should be compared to the reference sample and /or the BRAND
approved Tech pack.
9.3.1 The BRAND name on the main label along with the care instructions, the fiber
content and the factory ID # should match the information in the pre-
inspection documents. Any discrepancies must be noted as a major defect.
9.3.2 Photos of all labels are required in the photo section of the inspection report
9.5 CARTONS
Carton numbers must be recorded; any discrepancies should be noted on the
inspection report as data and not counted as a defect.
10.0 RE-INSPECTION
Re-inspections are to be conducted after the factory has failed an inspection. Goods must
be sorted 100% and the complete shipment reworked. The inspection company will post
on shared portal when the re-inspection date has been confirmed.
10.1 Factory is responsible to schedule re-inspection with 3rd PARTY SERVICE regional
coordination center.
10.2 The same 3rd PARTY SERVICE must be used for the re-inspection and preferably the
same inspector.
10.5 The previous FRI report must be available to the inspector prior to the re-inspection
and conducted only on the previous failed sections (workmanship or measurement).
10.6 Inspection results are to be reviewed with the factory manager upon completion and a
signed draft copy of the inspection report should be left with the factory. A finalized
report must be emailed within 24 hours to the appropriate BRAND.
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
12.0 CANCELLATION AND TERMINATED INSPECTION POLICY
12.1 The 3rd PARTY SERVICE regional coordination center must be notified a minimum of 1
business day prior to the scheduled inspection to cancel or postpone an appointment.
Additional advanced notice may be necessary if the inspector is required to travel to
the inspection location.
12.1.1 If notice of cancellation or postponement is made in less than 1 business day
prior to confirmed inspection date, the factory will be billed for one full man-
day and any out of pocket expenses.
12.2 If timely notice is provided and no advanced charges have been incurred, there will be
no charge.
12.3 If the inspection is started, and at the request of the factory representative the
inspection is stopped prior to completion, this is to be considered a terminated
inspection.
12.3.1 The inspector is to obtain why the inspection was stopped and record this in
the comments section of the report.
12.3.2 The inspector is to include the total number of samples inspected and record
all inspection findings at the point of termination.
12.3.3 The Factory will be billed for one full man-day and all travel and out of pocket
expensed will be incurred.
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix A
AQL 4.0
General Inspection Levels
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Single Sampling Plan for Normal Inspection, General Inspection Level II
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix B
2. Shading Defects
a. Shade/color match on part to part against standard worse than rating 5 on
AATCC grayscale x
b. Shade/color match of garment fabric & trim against standard worse than rating
4-5 on AATCC grayscale x
c. Dye spots, streaks, or barre marks noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x
d. Dye spots, streaks or barre marks not noticeable from 15” distance at critical zone x
e. Fault in print registration or placement adversely affecting appearance x
f. Fault in print registration or placement that is apparent, but not significant x
3. Cleanliness
a. Spots, stains & soil marks larger than 1/8” diameter x
b. Spots, stains & soil marks less than 1/8” diameter x
c. Multiple thread ends not trimmed x
d. Excessive fly &/or contamination on the garment x
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
g. Seams twisted, puckered or pleated, affecting appearance x
h. Improper stitch tension (too loose or tight) that affects appearance x
i. Ends of stitching not backstitched, tied in, or securely caught in other seams
or stitching x
j. Raw edges (other than specified) outside x
k. Gauge or edge stitching irregular; i.e., unevenly gauged, affecting appearance x
l. Conspicuous repairs x
m. Piecing/joining of binding &/or trims on critical zone of garments x
n. Monofilament yarn being used as a sewing thread in any type of stitching x
6. Pressing
a. Burned or scorched x
b. Over-pressed to leave seam impression or deforming surface effect on the
garment x
c. Stretched or distorted during pressing x
d. Excessive wrinkles that require pressing x
e. Evident shine caused by improper pressing x
8. Pockets
a. Not in specified location by more than ¼” x
b. Shaped poorly x
c. Set or sewn crooked x
d. Not or specified size and shape; size in excess of ¼” x
e. Edge margin of stitching not uniform x
f. Flaps not properly placed x
g. Puckers at the flap joins x
h. Slanted pocket flaps (not per specification) x
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
9. Collar and Cuffs
a. Fullness or puckers at collar attachment x
b. Collar points not uniform and balanced x
c. Conspicuous puckers on collar joining x
d. Misaligned, crooked collar setting more than ¼” x
e. Misaligned, crooked collar setting less than ¼” x
f. Puckered and/or crooked top stitching x
g. Pleated &/or puckered cuffs at sleeve joint in woven cuff x
h. Fullness or twist of cuff affecting appearance x
i. Misaligned cuffs at bottom x
j. Rib collar or cuffs set too tight, so do not have enough stretch x
k. Neck opening does not meet the minimum neck stretched x
10. Plackets
a. Top and bottom placket length not equal:
Top not covering bottom x
Top ¼” longer than bottom x
Top over ¼” longer than bottom x
b. Dimple at the bottom of placket easily visible within 3 feet x
c. Crooked placket top stitch x
d. Top placket not covering up bottom placket by more than 1/8” for shirts
and ¼” for sweaters x
11. Closures
a. Buttons missing and/or damaged x
b. Buttons misplaced and/or misaligned, causing poor appearance and distortion x
c. Buttons not sewn securely (easily pulled off) x
d. Buttons not as specified size, type or color x
e. Buttonholes omitted or added x
f. Buttonholes uncut x
g. Buttonholes misplaced or not aligned as specified, causing bad appearance x
h. Buttonholes not sewn securely (unravel easily) x
i. Defective snaps or fasteners that do not function x
j. Misalignment of fasteners, causing bad appearance x
k. Snaps and grommets that are not properly set x
l. Snaps that do not fasten properly and/or release very easily x
m. Improper zipper setting, causing wavy appearance x
n. Wrong size, type, color zipper x
o. Defective zipper sliders x
p. Defective zipper stops on open front jackets x
q. Tight clearance between the slider and the seam edge causing slider to
operate with difficulty x
r. Rivets not properly and securely set x
s. Rivets with rough edges x
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
12. Stripes, Checks & Piping Matches
a. Stripes not matched as specified:
up to ¼” x
over ¼” x
15. Measurements
Any measurement beyond specified tolerances per product specification sheet x
17. Gauge
Knitted on different gauge machine than specified gauge x
Note:
* Any MAJOR defect makes a garment unacceptable
* Two or more MINOR defects in a critical zone make a garment unacceptable
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
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Department: Product Integrity
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Department: Product Integrity
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix D
BRAND Contacts:
CATHERINES
DRESSBARN
JUSTICE
Jaci Custer – Manager, Product Integrity Dionne Henry – Specialist, Product Integrity
[email protected] [email protected]
614-775-3542 614-775-3212
8323 Walton Parkway 8323 Walton Parkway
New Albany, OH 43054 New Albany, OH 43054
LANE BRYANT
Matthew Berry – Director, Product Integrity Ashley Gabel – Analyst, Product Integrity
[email protected] [email protected]
3344 Morse Crossing 3344 Morse Crossing
Columbus, OH 43219 Columbus, OH 43219
614.463.5523 614.463.5151
MAURICES
Kerry Amborn – Manager, Product Integrity Bre Ludwig –Specialist, Product Integrity
[email protected] [email protected]
218.720.2148 218.206.3240
425 W. Superior Street 425 W. Superior Street
Duluth, MN 55802 Duluth, MN 55802
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix E
Tops
Body Length – Front /Back
Bust/Chest
Waist
Sweep
Across Shoulder
Sleeve Length
Sleeve Width @ opening
Armhole
Strap Length – Camis
KNIT TOP:
Neck Opening
Neck Stretch
WOVEN TOP:
Neck Opening (excludes button-downs)
Neck Depth (excludes button-downs)
Sleeve Width 1” below armhole
Across Back
Armhole
Dresses
Body Length – Front /Back
Neck Opening
Neck Depth
Neck Stretch – knit
Bust/Chest
Waist
Low Hip
Sweep
Sleeve Length
Armhole
Belt Length
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Swim
1-PC:
Trunk Length
Bust/Chest
Hip at top of leg opening
Leg Opening
Full Armhole
Strap length
2-PC
Top
Bust/Chest
Bra bottom band (sweep)
Length
Full armhole
Strap length (if not full armhole)
Bottom
Waist
Hip at top of leg opening
Front Rise
Back Rise
Leg opening
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Panties
Waist relaxed
Waist Extended
Hip at top of leg opening
Front Rise
Back Rise
Leg opening
Leg Extended (Adults Only)
Front & Back Coverage (Adults Only)
Gusset length & width (Adults Only)
Bras
Shaped
Bottom band relaxed
Front neckline length
Strap length
Sport
Bust/Chest
Sweep relaxed
Sweep extended
Strap length
Robe
Use DRESSES
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix F
Required Photos
General
Front Entrance
Sealed Defects
Labels
Main
Factory ID
Fiber Content
Size
Care Instructions
Price Ticket Front
Price Ticket Back
Samples
Reference Sample Front
Reference Sample Back
Production Sample Front
Production Sample Back
Workmanship Defects
Carton Markings
Other – Please define
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
Appendix G
Photo Template
Facility Name
Date
BRAND style # and PO #
PHOTOGRAPHS -
LABELS
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Department: Product Integrity
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Department: Product Integrity
WORKMANSHIP DEFECTS
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AGS Apparel Inspection SOP V2.0
Department: Product Integrity
CARTON MARKINGS
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