DK Eyewitness Travel Guide - Croatia - 2E (2017) PDF

eyewitness travel
croatia
eyewitness travel
CROATIA
Produced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy
Project Editor Donatella Ceriani
Art Editor Oriana Bianchetti
Editors Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi Giovanna Morselli,
Federica Romagnoli
Main Contributors Leandro Zoppé,

Gian Enrico Venturini (Travel Information and Practical Guide)
Contributors Božidarka Boža Gligorijević, Iva Grgic, Sanja Rojić
Photographers
Adriano Bacchella, Aldo Pavan, Lucio Rossi, Leandro Zoppé
Cartographers Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara

LS International Cartography snc, Milano
Illustrators Modi Artistici
English Translation Susan Andrews

Skradinski falls, Krka National Park, Dalmatia
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Editors Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild
Consultant Jane Foster

Contents
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little How to Use this Guide 6
Production Melanie Dowland
Printed and bound in China Introducing

First published in the UK in 2003 Croatia
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Discovering
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Croatia 10
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017
Copyright © 2003, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Putting Croatia
A Penguin Random House Company on the Map 16
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written A Portrait
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
of Croatia 18
ISBN 978-0-2412-7165-0
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; Croatia Through
ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
the Year 28
The History of Croatia 32
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Naive painting of the Hlebine School,
Front cover main image: The Old Town of Dubrovnik, Dalmatia Koprivnica Gallery
Motovun, one of the fortified hilltop towns of Istria
Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide
Where to Stay Practical Information
222 264
Where to Eat Travel Information 274

and Drink 232
General Index 282
Phrase Book 295
Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish of

shellfish in tomato sauce
Croatia Area
by Area Shopping in
Croatia 250
Croatia at a Glance 48
Entertainment in
Istria and the
Croatia 254
Kvarner Area 50
Outdoor Activities 258
Dalmatia 90 The bustling harbour of Makarska
Zagreb 154
Central
Croatia 172
Slavonia
and Baranja 184
The Northern
Counties 202
The church of
St Donat in Zadar
Statue by Contieri, church of
St Andrew, Mošćenice
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

The detailed information and tips given in may refer to the same town. Where
this guide will help you to get the most out both names are officially recognized,
of your visit to Croatia. Introducing Croatia the Croatian name is given first, then the
maps the country and sets it in its historical Italian in brackets. Restaurant and hotel
and cultural context. The six sections, one recommendations can be found in the section
dedicated to Zagreb, describe the main Travellers’ Needs, together with information
sights using maps, photographs and about shopping and entertainment.The
illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and part Survival Guide has tips on everything from
of Dalmatia, two languages are spoken transport to making a phone call, as well as
(Croatian and Italian) and two place names other practical matters.
Croatia Area by Area

Croatia has been divided C R O At I A A R e A b y A R e A  91
Each area can be easily
into six main areas, each DALMATIA identified by its colour-coded
Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in thumb tab.
one identified by its own the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of this
Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
colour code. On the inside Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
1 Introduction
In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there
front cover is a general map of war, the Romans managed to conquer

the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and
followed a second flowering of the arts,
and the sculptors, architects, painters,
of the country showing

integrate them into their system. For
over three centuries the region enjoyed
a period of prosperity which was
writers and scholars of this period laid the
foundations for the future development
of Croatian culture, art and literature.
This section describes the
these six areas. All the most
eventually brought to an end by the
arrival of peoples from Asia, including
the Slavs in the 7th century.
In late spring, when the Jadranska
magistrala coast road has yet to be
invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
character and history of
In 915, after a long period of wars and must be one of the loveliest parts
each area, highlighting its
interesting places to visit are unrest, the first Croatian kings founded
a new state, blessed by papal authority.
of Europe. From Karlobag the road
winds along the edge of the Velebit
New public and religious buildings, walls mountain chain and the Dalmatian
development over the
located on the Regional
and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards
to flourish, and trading with the Italian is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
coast increased. This was a period of Pag and further along are the islands
centuries and what it has
Map in each chapter.
great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and
the collapse of the Croatian state and its finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long
in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
covered in vineyards and maquis to offer the visitor today.
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.
52  C R o aT I a a R e a B y a R e a IsTRIa aNd The K vaRNeR aRea  53
Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area Sights at a Glance

1 Buje (Buie) p Lovran
sLOVeNia
hUNGaRy
• ZaGReB
Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into 2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija
three areas. White Istria is a central plateau of karst or 3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav
BOsNia-
limestone with sparse areas of oak, pine and ash trees; grey 4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 heRZeGOViNa
Istria consists of a strip of eroded limestone with rich soil, 5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino)
used for vines and olive trees; and red Istria is a plateau adRiatic
sea
7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša, farmed for cereals
8 Vodnjan (Dignano) k Krk
and vegetables. The most popular destinations in Istria are Locator Map
9 Fažana (Fasana) l Bakar
Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The
2
0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
A secluded beach on the island of Mljet
Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline as q Pula (Pola) pp62–5
Regional Map
x Crikvenica
Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnikfar as“pearl
– the Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland, with
of the Adriatic” w Barban c Novi Vinodolski
the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice e Svetvinčenat v Senj Key
Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, The Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the r Pazin b Rab pp84–5
This shows the road network and

t Gračišće
Motorway
Cres, Lošinj and Rab are delightful places to explore. Many island of Rab n Plitvice Lakes National Park
y Pićan pp88–9 Major road
of the towns on the coast have an Italianate appearance.
u Labin Minor road
i Plomin Tour
provides an illustrated overview

Trieste Tršće Motorway under construction
Trieste Rek Ljubljana o Mošćenice a Tour of the Fortified Towns Main railway
a
County border
Rupa PRIMORSKO -
GORANSKA International border
of the whole region. The most

UMAG Kupa
Ve
(UMAGO) Crni Lug Ferry route

RISNJAK Karlovac
lik
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK Summit

a
TOUR OF Delnice
interesting places to visit are

Grožnjan KASTAV Vrbovsko
F O RT I F I E D T T H E Matulji
Mirna OWN
Motovun S Ravna
OPATIJA
NOVIGRAD RIJEKA
Ka
Gora
(CITTANOVA)
IS TARS KA
pe
LOVRAN BAKAR
Boljun
numbered, and there are useful POREČ

la
Bjelolasica
PAZIN KRALJEVICA
(PARENZO) 1534m
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN CRIKVENICA
tips on getting around the region

Omišalj
VRSAR Brestova
(ORSERA) Dvigrad Šilo
PLOMIN Porozina Karlovac
SVETVINČENAT
ROVINJ NOVI
by car and public transport.

LABIN KRK
(ROVIGNO) VINODOLSKI
Rabac
BALE BARBAN M
(VALLE) Valbiska Krk a The rocky coastline near Rovinj
Krk la
Venice Brinje K Karlovac
Merag SENJ a 0 kilometres 30
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Baška p
Plavnik Gac el
na
BRIJUNI 0 miles 30
r
FAŽANA(FASANA) ka
Kora
NATIONAL
ne
PARK PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice

ar
Lubenice Otočac
NATIONAL PARK
Kva
Lukovo
Kv
PULA(POLA) Lopar
CRES Rab
Mali Rajinac Bihać
RAB
rn
Kampor 1699m
Rab
P
Korenica
er
lj
Cres Jablanac
Ve
Dolin
e
ić
še
Getting Around Unije

Osor
L I ČKO - SEN J SKA
v
l e
The roads are good; there is a motorway

ic
190  C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A SLA
linking Rijeka toVZagreb,
O N I A asAwell
N DasBfromARANJA  191 Nerezine
a
b
Lički Osik
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger
i
Ozeblin
Pag 1657m
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO)
t
Lika Udbina
ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Lošinj Gospić Donji
9 Novi Mikanovci in the 1990s and now restored, summer season – these take Around the middle
cars also. Buses of the Mali Lošinj
Karlobag
Gračac
Lapac
Veli Lošinj Zadar
it houses the Ethnographic link all the main towns and15th century,
a busthe Church
runs and
Susak
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km there’s that Zadar
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km
Museum (Zavičajni muzej from Pula to Trieste, while Monastery of St Ivan
trains link Rijeka and Kapistran
(2 miles). n (032) 344 034. “Stjepan Gruber”). Zagreb, with connections (Sv. to theIvansouth
Kapistran) were built
of Croatia. Ilovik
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
The village is famous for the E Ethnographic Museum was aand
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 Franciscan
pp238–40 who was For keys to symbols see back flap
small Romanesque Church of Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open famous for uniting Christian
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol), 7am–7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. forces against the Turks and
from the first half of the 13th & 8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
century, a rare example of Ilok became a major Turkish
architecture from before Turkish q Vinkovci administrative and military
rule. The church stands in a Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
cemetery and is called the (27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia” 332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
because of its leaning bell Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
tower, which appears to be Glagoljaška 27, (032) 344 034. the monastery have been
held up by the façade. At the _ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni The Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
statue of St Bartholomew. (Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
7 Vrpolje was built. After Turkish rule, the one of the Turkish baths are
city was renovated. Only the A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, 39 km
(24 miles). @ from Osijek. n mosque, at the end of the 0 Županja back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km
In 1683, after his role in
Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, central avenue, was retained. Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km (24 winning the battle of Vienna,
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. It was converted into the (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki the birthplace of the Emperors miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, (032) Commander Livio Odescalchi
parish church of All Saints (Svi kraj 66, (032) 832 711. _ Folklore Valens and Valentinian, and a 590 020. _ Grape harvest festival was given the town of Ilok by the
A small country town, Vrpolje is Sveti) in the 18th century. Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb). bishop’s see from the 4th (first week in Sep). Austrian Emperor. In this idyllic
known as the birthplace of The central square is ∑ tz-zupanja.hr century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr setting he built a U-shaped
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović dominated by the was called Zenthelye, because mansion, Odescalchi Manor.
(1883–1962) (see p163). Cathedral of St Peter On the border with Bosnia- of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Today, the mansion houses a
Many of the artist’s works, (Sv. Petar), built Herzegovina, Županja lies along abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the restaurant, public offices and the
donated to the town he between 1866 and a wide bend in the Sava River. (Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
held in great affection, can 1882 by Bishop Josip The area has been inhabited church is one of the oldest and the centre of the with archaeological and
be seen here. In the small Juraj Strossmayer; the since ancient times; Bronze Age monuments in Slavonia. region of Srijem, famous since ethnographic collections. The
3
parish Church of St John project was the finds have been discovered in a The Civic Museum (Gradski Roman times for its wine. In wines of Ilok are still produced
Detailed Information
the Baptist (Sveti Ivan work of the Viennese necropolis. One of the first muzej), situated in the the late Roman era the here in the cellars, among them
Krstitelj, 1774) is his architects Karl Rösner Croat settlements was set up former 18th-century city grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac.
statue of St John the Bust of a Woman by and Friedrich von here. After Turkish rule it Austrian barracks in and took the name
Baptist, a relief and a Meštrović, Vrpolje Schmidt. The became one of the military the main square, of Cuccium. R Church and Monastery of
All the important towns

crucifix, while outside is imposing façade is staging posts on the Vojna holds finds from In the Middle St Ivan Kapistran
a striking Bust of a Woman. flanked by two 84-m (275-ft) krajina (Military Frontier) (see the Roman Ages it was a O M Barbarića 4. Tel (032) 590 073.
The Ivan Meštrović Gallery belfries. The interior has p41) and a trading centre. necropolis and has castrum with high Open by appt or before Mass.
(Spomen galerija) has 30 of his frescoes by Maksimilijan and The Frontier House is a a folklore collection. walls, towers and E Odescalchi Manor and
works on display: casts, bronzes
and wooden sculptures.
Ljudevit Seitz, sculptures
by Ignazio Donegani and
Tomas Vodcka, and
decorations by Giuseppe
wooden building originally
from the early 19th century,
used by tax collectors.
Damaged during the bombings
Large Roman
sarcophagi
are displayed in the
museum’s lapidarium.
Exhibit in the Civic
Museum, Vinkovci
fortified buildings.
The defences
were reinforced in
1365, and the town was given
Civic Museum
Šetalište oca Mladena Barbarića 5.
Tel (032) 827 410. Open 8am–6pm
daily, wine tastings only. Civic
and other places to visit are
8 Ðakovo
Map F2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 48 km
(22 miles). £ (031) 811 360. @ (060)
Voltolini from the 19th
century. The crypt houses
the tombs of the bishops
Facing the garden is the to Nikola Kont, whose family
church of SS Eusebius and Pollio later acquired the title of
(Sv. Euzebije i Polion) from 1775, Counts of Ilok.
Museum: Open 9am–6pm Fri,
9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 11am–6pm Sat.
&87=^
described individually. They
are listed in order and follow
302 030. n Kralja Tomislava 3, (031) Strossmayer and Ivan de Zela. and the Town Hall.
812 319. _ Ðakovo embroidery, Next to the church is the Each September a festival of
Ðakovački vezovi (first week in Jul). 18th-century Bishop’s Palace, music and popular traditions is
∑ tzdjakovo.eu which has an ornate held in the town and groups
the numbering shown on

Baroque doorway. from all over the country take
In medieval times this town was The Festival of Embroidery part. The streets are decorated,
known by the name of Civitas of Ðakovo (Ðakovački vezovi) is stallholders sell local produce,
Dyaco, and later as Castrum held at the beginning of July and artists perform.
Dyaco. Late in the 13th century
it became a bishopric, and its
influence extended over
most of Slavonia and Bosnia.
with displays of traditional local
costumes, folk dancing and
wine tasting.
E Civic Museum
Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
the Regional Map. Detailed
information is given about
504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
Conquered and destroyed by R Cathedral of St Peter 3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri,
the Turks in 1536, it became a Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 200. Embroidered head-dress in the 9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
Muslim centre and a mosque Open 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm daily. Ethnographic Museum, Županja 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp247–8
the most important sights.

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
130  C R O At I A A R e A b y A R e A D A L M At I A  131 The Visitors’ Checklist provides

a Hvar ViSiTorS’ CHeCKliST
practical information about transport,
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the
Practical Information
Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
opening times, events and the
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story
begins in the 4th century bC when the Greeks from Paros
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar
Stjepana bb, (021) 741 059. Stari
Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana
1, (021) 765 763. Sucuraj: (021)
closing dates of places of
particular interest.
town). traces have been left by the Romans, the byzantines, the 717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from Transport
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital 4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria- 741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral of Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of St Stephen (021) 773 228.
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born Roman mosaic in the floor. E Tvrdalj
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically Conversation) in which he On the edge of the old quarter Priko bb. open May, Jun & Sep:
vividly describes a fishing trip is the Dominican Monastery 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily.
around the islands of Hvar, Brač (Dominikanski samostan), Vrboska is a pretty village
4
and Šolta. He began building founded by Brother Germano E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
the Tvrdalj in 1514, intending
for it to be both a palatial
private house and a fortified
sanctuary into which the local
of Piacenza in 1482 and rebuilt
and fortified after destruction
by Uluz Ali, the Ottoman corsair
who raided the Adriatic islands
Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766
324. open May, Jun & Sep:
10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug:
10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, 7–9pm
stone bridges spanning a narrow
canal connected to the open
sea. Dominating the village is
the 16th-century Church of St
Detailed Information
population could retreat
should there be an attack by
pirates. The Tvrdalj was
in 1571. The most feared sea
captain of his time, Uluz Ali was
driven away by the stubborn
Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt.
R Dominican Monastery
Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442.
Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified with
huge buttresses to provide
shelter for villagers in times of
on Each Sight
The main attractions are listed
intended to be a self-sustaining defenders of Korčula, and came open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of St
unit, with a garden, a dovecote to pillage the less well-defended daily; Oct–May: by appt. Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
and a seawater fishpond were island of Hvar instead. As well ptych on the main altar by Paolo
included within its walls. as a beautiful cloister, the Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin of
for each place. A map shows

Hektorović placed philosophical monastery has a library rich A traditional Dalmatian stone- the Rosary by Leandro da
inscriptions in Latin on the walls in medieval incunabula, and a built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad of the Tvrdalj, turning his home collection of paintings including harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
into a unique monument to a Deposition by Tintoretto. The for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
Hvar Town
See pp132–3.
Stari Grad
a picturesque old quarter of
low stone houses and tiny
streets. The 17th-century parish
Church of St Stephen (Sv.
Renaissance humanist thought.
Nearby is Stari Grad’s Town
Museum, housed in the
Renaissance Biankini Palace. It
monastery church contains the
grave of Petar Hektorović.
Immediately east of Stari
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain
beaches on the outer fringes of
town. For much of its history
Jelsa was a prosperous port,
exporting the wines produced in Zavala
seaside path from Vrboska to
Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
the main towns, villages and
Founded by the Syracusans
in the 4th century BC and
originally called Pharos, Stari
Grad (literally, the Old Town)
Stjepan), with its free-standing
Venetian-style bell tower, is the
principal landmark. At the
western end of the old quarter
contains a stunning collection
of Greek amphorae, some
beautifully restored period
rooms, and a picture gallery
that still preserves the field
plan established by the island’s
ancient Greek inhabitants.
Archaeologists have revealed
the villages just inland. Steps
from Jelsa’s café-filled main
square ascend to the Gothic
parish Church of St Mary (Sv.
Zavala is the principal village of
Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
where quiet hamlets lie below
slopes covered with vineyards.
beaches on the larger islands.
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, is the Tvrdalj, the fortified devoted to local artists, that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
despite having lost its political residence of Renaissance poet including the gifted, Paris- figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is Trg through a famously low and
and cultural importance to Petar Hektorović . Hektorović is trained Juraj Plančić (1899– modern counterparts do today, svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
Hvar town. Stari Grad lies at the best known as the author of 1930). The Moira Gallery at but also grew wheat. Added to piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
end of a long bay and the main Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje Vagonj 1 shows contemporary the UNESCO World Heritage list octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
sights are scattered throughout (Fishing and Fishermen’s art and contains fragments of in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
2 0 6  C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A THE NORTHERN COUNTIES  207
Sućuraj
Stari Grad Vrboska Lying in a sheltered bay at the
SVETI KLEMENT eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
Hvar H VA R
Jelsa
Poljica 1 Varaždin is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its
wear richly decorated blue
uniforms and bearskin hats.
P Hercer Palace
Palača Hercer
VISITOrS’ CHECKlIST
Traces of occupation
Sućuraj from the Neolithic
pretty age, the
harbour boasts the La Tene To the east of the square Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
PAKLENI ISLANDS Bogomolje civilization and the Roman remains
periodof have
a fortress
beenbuilt by the
found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,0
Zavala Entomological Museum: Tel (042) 00. n Local: Ivana Padovca 3,
Varaždin Venetians
castle. Despite this, in 1630.
the first Nearby,
mention ofMlaska
the town is Drašković), built in the late 17th
Key 658 760. Open same opening times (042) 210 987; Regional: Uska 4,
Bay and Perna Bay are two of century with a Rococo façade.
ŠĆEDRO 0 kilometres 5 found in a document
Major road from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed as the palace. & 8 (042) 210 096. _ Baroque
Hvar’s best beaches, with clear The Croat Parliament met here
0 miles 5
the rights of the Zagreb Curia
Minor road shallowtowater
the thermal
over finespas
sand.in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands the Built at the end of the 18th evenings, Varaždin, (Sep–Oct);
In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it Gastrolov (Oct).
Renaissance Ritz House, one of century (the founders’ coat of
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–30 and pp240–45 For keys to symbols see back flap ∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century the oldest in the town, as arms is on the door), the palace
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by evidenced by the date (1540) has housed the well-organized Transport
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it engraved on the doorway. Entomological Section of the £ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
Civic Museum (Entomološki @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption 1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688. Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily. The bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
5
The Church of the Assumption Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
became a cathedral in 1997. From 1962 to 1980 his work was for its library of parchments,
Main Towns Both the church and the

annexed monastery were built
in the first half of the 17th
two statues of St Francis of
Assisi and St Anthony of Padua.
The interior has eight side
carried on by his daughter Ružica,
a biologist. As well as thousands
of insects, the museum also has
incunabula and manuscripts, and
some of the oldest documents
in ancient Croatian (kajkavski).
All the main towns have an

century by the Jesuits. Later, the chapels and an ornate gilded a herbarium. From time to time,
Pauline order moved in. pulpit from the late 17th temporary exhibitions on a P National Theatre
The cathedral’s tall façade is century. The bell tower is 54 m variety of themes are organized. Narodno kazalište
enlivened by pillars. The interior (177 ft) high. Ulica Augusta Cesarca 1.
individual section where the

is a triumph of the Baroque. The In front of the church is one R Church of the Holy Trinity Tel (042) 214 688.
main altar occupies the width of of the copies of the Monument Sv. Trojstvo Open for performances only.
the central nave and has gilded of Bishop Gregory of Nin by Kapucinski trg 7. Tel (042) 213 550. Built by Hermann Helmer in 1873,
Aerial view of the castle, today home to the Civic Museum columns, stuccoes and engrav- Ivan Meštrović. The adjacent Open 9am–noon, 6–7pm Mon–Sat, this is one of the main cultural
museums, monuments and

ings. At the centre of the altar is pharmacy has many works Sun before and after mass. centres in the city. During the
P Castle and Civic Museum E Gallery of Old and an Assumption of the Virgin, of art, among them some The church dates from the summer and autumn, theatre-
Stari grad & Gradski muzej Modern Masters reminiscent of Titian’s work in allegorical frescoes by Ivan early 18th century and houses goers from all over Europe
Strossmayerovo šetalište 7. Tel (042) Galerija starih i novih majstora Venice. Evenings of Baroque Ranger (see p210). numerous Baroque paintings, come to attend performances.
other places of interest are listed. 658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^
It is unknown when exactly this
castle was built, though some
Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
The gallery has a large
music concerts are held here.
Varaždin Town Centre
All the sights of major interest

1 Castle and Civic Museum
documents suggest it dates collection of works by artists 2 Gallery of Old and V. N A Z O R A
back to the 12th century. It was from all over Europe, particularly Modern Masters Castle and
Civic Museum
built over the ruins of an landscapes by Flemish and TRG BANA
3 Tomislav Square JELAČIĆA
are located on the town map.

observation tower and, in the Italian artists, and portraits by
4 Cathedral of the
15th century, two round towers German and Dutch painters. Gallery of Old
Assumption and Modern Masters
A.
were added. The castle was
ŠEN
5 Church of St John the
L J. GAJE
P. P
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square
OE
EV
Baptist
RE
VČ
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava
VA
O
D
RAD
PA
6 Hercer Palace Town Hall
S.
Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg
URŠU
who created a Renaissance V. LISIN
SKOG Church of TOMISLAV
VR
OV
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508. 7 Church of the Holy Trinity St John
L INSK
Ursuline SQUARE
AZ
the Baptist
IČA
Church Drašković Palace
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace The rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of 8 National Theatre
A U.
A
Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PAV L I NSKA

facing courtyards. (Palača Drašković): Trg kralja the Assumption Palace TRG
Cathedral of the
Tomislava 3. Closed to the public.
N DULIĆEVA
Assumption
The castle’s present look dates IĆEV
A Patačiċ
KAČ Palace
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the I Ć EVA
DRA
DEL
HAB
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John
ŠKO
GU
VIĆ
Church of
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist
EVA
Erdödy St Nicholas Train Station

Museum, which has collections one of the oldest buildings in Sv. Ivan Krstitelj Palace TRG
SLOBODE
500m (550 yards)
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213 A
RC
AN
166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30– SA
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has CE
IN A
ZRIN
A.
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily.
SKIH
KAPUCINSKI National
TRG Theatre
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in
I FRAN
K OVA
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of 0 metres 200
Church of
KOP
the Holy
BL AŽE
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The Trinity
ANA
0 yards 200
160  C R o AT I A A R e A B y A R e A the ancient walls that existed zAg
gave R ethe
it to  It1 is6 guarded
B city. 1 façade has a Renaissance
Bus
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and Station
For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp248–9 For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad) 8 . Meštrović Atelier
The great Croatian sculptor
In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have Ivan Meštrović lived in this
Gornji
18th-century building
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural from 1922 to 1941. About
Grad
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum ten years before his death
The town map shows

Central
of the country: the presidency of the Republic, Parliament, Created from three collections, the he donated his home and ZaGreb
museum houses most of the finds all the works of art in it to
the State Audit Court and several government ministries.
from Krapina, which date human the state.
All of these buildings were restored, repaired or rebuilt after
the main roads, stations,
presence in Croatia back to the
the terrible earthquake of 1880. Some of the ancient noble Palaeolithic era. Locator Map
palaces have been converted into museums. There are also
car parking areas and

three interesting churches: the ancient church of St Mark,
the Baroque church of St Catherine built by the Jesuits, and
A
the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The daily signal to oV 0 Parliament Building
R
ET
tourist offices.
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of This building dates from 1910, when the
A
A
M provincial administration offices were

E
oV
ČK
Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). D

enlarged. The independence of Croatia
EK
ETA
was proclaimed from the central window

of the building in 1918.
RiČ
ML
q Viceroy’s Palace
iCA
SA
The building dates from the 17th century and was
6
BA
UL
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
Street-by-Street Map
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the Republic.
A
iC
L
This gives a bird’s-eye view of

KA
U
A
iČ
K
iČ
AT
N
oP
the key areas of interest in the

S
E
A
M
MARKoV
iC
TRG
UL
KA
main towns and cities with

9 . Church of St Mark
A
M
EN
EV
iT The coloured tiles on the roof of this

A
fine Gothic church form the coats
oŠ
KA
of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia,

T
photographs and captions

MA
Slavonia and Zagreb.

DS
w Croatian History Museum

To
iC
This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić-

UL
ME
Kalmer-Rauch palace, has works of art and
describing the sights.

documents collected since 1959. 5 The Stone Gate is
KA
iLo
all that remains of the

iČ
ćiR
five original gates

AT
constructed around
oP
the Gradec area in

the 13th century.
jEzUiTSKi
TRG
The Klovićevi Dvori, an

important temporary
r Church of SS. Cyril
exhibition site, has
and Methodius
been housed since 1982
Built by Orthodox
in a 17th-century
Christians in the first half
Jesuit monastery.
of the 19th century, the t Tower of Lotrščak
church, designed by At noon every day a cannon is
Bartol Felbinger, has a fired from this tower, which
fine iconostasis. dates from the 12th century.
e . Croatian Museum
56  C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA  57
of Naive Art y Church of St Catherine
Over 1,500 works of Naive art by the Key Built on the site of an ancient
0 metres
Poreč: Euphrasian Basilica
50
founders and followers of the Hlebine Dominican church, this is the city’s Interior
Suggested route
The entrance leads to a VISIToRS’ ChECKlIST
School are held here. 0 yards most fascinating Baroque
50 building.
Eufrazijeva bazilika large basilica with a central
For hotels and restaurants see pp230–31 and pp245–7 Practical Information
nave and two side aisles.
Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
The 18 Greek marble
This 6th-century church, a Byzantine masterpiece, is columns have carved Tel (052) 429 030. open call
decorated with splendid mosaics on a gold background. ahead for opening times. &
capitals featuring animals,
The Euphrasian Basilica was built for Bishop Euphrasius some of Byzantine origin
between 539 and 553, by enlarging the existing 4th-century and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
Oratory of St Maurus Martyr. Some of the original floor of Euphrasius.
mosaics still survive. Over the centuries the building has
undergone numerous alterations. In December 1997 the
basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Classical concerts are held in the church in July and August.
7 Croatia’s Top Sights . Ciborium Baptistry

Dominating the presbytery is a This octagonal building dates
beautiful 13th-century ciborium, from the 6th century. In the
supported by four marble centre is a baptismal font and
These are given two full columns. The canopy is there are also fragments of
decorated with mosaics. mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
pages. There are cutaways

or reconstructions of historic . Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
buildings, maps of national Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
the basilica, and Deacon
parks with information about Claud with his son.
trails and facilities available,

and there are floorplans of
the major museums. There
are also photographs KEY
of the main sights. Sacristy and the

1 Remains of a 4th-century mosaic
floor from the Oratory of St Maurus
are in the garden.
Atrium
This has a roughly
Votive Chapel 2 The Bishop’s Residence, a square portico with two
Past the sacristy’s left wall triple-aisled building dating from columns on each side.
is a triple-apsed chapel the 6th century, now houses several Tombstones and a variety
with a mosaic floor from paintings by Antonio da Bassano, a of archaeological finds
Stars indicate the sights

the 6th century. Here lie polyptych by Antonio Vivarini and dating from the medieval
the remains of the saints a painting by Palma il Giovane. period are displayed
Maurus and Eleuterius. in this area.
that no visitor should miss.

For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 and pp238–40
IntroducIng
croatIa
Discovering Croatia 10–15

Putting Croatia on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Croatia 18–27
Croatia Through the Year 28–31
The History of Croatia 32–45
10  I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A
DISCOVERING CROATIA
The itineraries on the following pages have These itineraries are perfect for a short break,
been designed to take in as many of Croatia’s or can be used to enhance one of our longer
highlights as possible, while keeping long- tours, such as ten days spent island-hopping
distance travel manageable. First come a on the magnificent Dalmatian coast. Finally,
pair of two-day tours: one of Dubrovnik, the our two-week tour of Croatia’s riches packs a
romantic city on the Adriatic, packed with feast of historical sights and natural wonders
historical monuments; the other taking in into an exhilarating fortnight. Choose or
the national capital Zagreb and its absorbing combine your favourite tours, or simply dip
mix of museums and cultural diversions. in and out for inspiration.
IST R IA
Rovinj Krk
Pula Cres Lopar

Hvar town, capital of Hvar island Rab
Peaceful bays, a mild climate and lavender-covered Rab Stinica
hillsides characterize the islands off the Dalmatian coast.
Lošinj
Olib Pag
Adriatic
Two Weeks in Croatia Sea
•
Spend a day getting •
Cool down and splash Zadar
to know Zagreb, the around beneath the Dugi
nation’s vibrant capital. cascading waterfalls of Otok
•
Wander the cobbled the Krka National Park.
streets of chic Rovinj, •
Enjoy the stone-paved
Istria’s most charming squares and streets of
seaside town. Renaissance Trogir, one
•
Admire Roman ruins of the Adriatic’s most
in Pula, the unofficial picturesque towns.
cultural capital of the •
Revel in the energy
Istrian peninsula. of Split, Dalmatia’s
•
Venture into Croatia’s biggest port and
most dramatic lakeland liveliest seaside city.
landscape, the Plitvice •
Explore historic Hvar
Lakes National Park. island, home to well-
•
Roam the centre of preserved towns and
Zadar, famous for its contemporary nightlife.
mixture of medieval •
Mix beach life with
and contemporary medieval history on the
architecture. green island of Korčula.
•
Stroll the narrow •
Leave plenty of time at
alleyways of medieval the end of the trip to Korčula island
Šibenik on the way to explore the fascinating Forested mountain slopes lead down to
its stunning cathedral. walled city of Dubrovnik. sandy beaches on Korčula, once a prize
fought over in historic naval battles.
Noon at Koločep, Jerome Miše (1931)
D I S C O V E R I N G C R O AT I A  11
South Croatian Coast

Many of Croatia’s coastal
towns and villages have
yet to become the
high-rise resorts of other
holiday destinations.
Zagreb
Sa
va
K up
a Ten Days on the Dalmatian Islands
•
Explore the bustling main jumping-off point
port city of Split before for excursions to the
heading for quiet, Blue Cave of Biševo.
unspoiled Šolta. •
Enjoy medieval towns,
•
Hit the spectacular pebbly coves and great
Plitvice Lakes beaches of Brač, largest food on the slender
National Park and most developed of green island of Korčula.
the Dalmatian islands. •
Spend a day walking
•
Head for Hvar and or cycling on Mljet,
its quiet villages and home to the lakes and
idyllic coves, then enjoy forests of the Mljet
Hvar town’s characterful National Park.
local restaurants and •
Relax as you take a
lively nightlife. voyage by sea to the
•
Soak up the unique, captivating walled city
DA LMATI A far-from-the-crowds of Dubrovnik, your last
Krka atmosphere of Vis, the stop on the tour.
National Park
Šibenik
0 kilometres 50
Trogir Split
0 miles 50
Rogač Supetar
Šolta Brač
Bol
Hvar Town Jelsa Key

Vis Town Hvar
Two Weeks in Croatia
Komiža Pelješac
Vis Ten Days on the
Biševo
Korčula Town Dalmatian Islands
Korčula Ston
Polače
Mljet
Lastovo
Dubrovnik
Adriatic
Sea
Two Days in Two Days in Zagreb

Dubrovnik
This perfectly preserved Art, culture and a vibrant
walled city is compact and café scene are the keynotes
easy to explore, providing of this easy-going Central
a wonderful opportunity European metropolis.
for leisurely walking. Close in style to Vienna
and Budapest, the Croatian
•
Arriving Dubrovnik’s capital is very different
airport is 22 km (13 miles) to the Mediterranean-
east of the city at Čilipi. flavoured towns of the
A bus runs to the Old Town Adriatic coast.
every 90–120 minutes.
•
Moving on The bus station
•
Arriving Zagreb airport
and ferry port, 3 km (1 mile) is 15 km (9 miles) south
Decorative grotto at Trsteno Arboretum,
west of the Old Town at of the city. Buses run to
just outside Dubrovnik
Gruž, offer services to the the city bus station every
Dalmatian coast and islands. 30–60 minutes.
Day 2
Morning Take the 10-minute
•
Getting around Zagreb’s
boat trip from the Old Port to tram system is efficient and
Day 1 the island of Lokrum (p152), the comprehensive. Tickets can
Morning Start with a tour site of a ruined monastery, botan- be bought on board trams
of the city walls (p148), a ical gardens and numerous coves or from any newspaper kiosk.
popular destination that can perfect for bathing. Returning to
get crowded later in the day. the mainland, take a look at the
Follow this with a stroll along the medieval quarantine buildings Day 1
Stradun (p150), the Old Town’s of the Lazareti (p148) before Morning Begin your first day
main street and the site of many taking a lunch break. on Trg bana Jelačića, the city’s
of its cafés. At the eastern end central square, perpetually busy
of Stradun, the Church of Afternoon Cool off on an with pedestrians and passing
St Blaise (p151) honours the out-of-town trip to the lush trams. From here it’s a short
city’s patron saint. Visit the gardens of Trsteno (p152) just walk to the Neo-Gothic
nearby Dominican Monastery up the coast. Early evening Cathedral (p158) and then the
(p152) for its quiet cloisters is a good time to ride the Dolac Market (p159), one of
and Renaissance paintings. Dubrovnik Cable Car (p152) Central Europe’s most colourful
up to Mount Srđ to take in its collections of fruit-and-veg
Afternoon The former Rector’s stunning panoramic views. stalls. Stroll up Radićeva street
Palace (p151) houses an to the Upper Town (pp160–61),
intriguing museum. Also nearby To extend your trip… a well-preserved Baroque
is the Cathedral (p151), its Spend a day hopping your quarter where the Church of
treasury packed full of intriguing way around the unspoiled St Mark’s is a popular landmark.
relics. Behind the cathedral lie Elaphite Islands (p152) just
some of the Old Town’s most offshore, using the local Afternoon The Zagreb City
atmospheric alleyways, perfect passenger ferry as transport. Museum (p162) will fill you in on
for leisurely strolling. Zagreb’s eventful history, while
the nearby Tower of Lotrščak
(p165) offers impressive views of
the downtown area. Descend to
Ilica, the main shopping street,
and the Croatian National
Theatre (p166) in its pretty
square. Return to the main
square via Cvjetni trg or “Flower
Square”, where many of Zagreb’s
liveliest cafés can be found.
Day 2
Morning Stroll south from
the main square to the
Archaeological Museum (p168),
strong on prehistory and
Egyptology. The nearby Gallery
Dubrovnik Cable Car, offering stunning views of the walled city of Old Masters (pp170–71) is a
For practical information on travelling around Croatia see pp274–81
superb collection of European

paintings. Northwest of here,
Teslina and Masarykova streets
are full of lunching opportunities.
Afternoon Choose between

the spectacular Museum of
Contemporary Art (p169), a
tram ride south of the river Sava,
or the woodland delights of
Maksimir Park (p169), a short
tram journey to the east. If it’s
the park you choose, return
to the centre via Mirogoj
Cemetery (p169) with its rich
variety of memorial sculptures. Museum of Contemporary Art, Zagreb
Ten Days on the Day 2: Šolta or more. The main settlement,

Dalmatian Islands Nearest of the islands to Hvar town, is famous for its hip
Split, Šolta (p126) is also bars, trendy clubs and yachting
•
Airports Arrive at Split and the least visited, and has scene. A short distance away,
depart from Dubrovnik – consequently retained a great the comparatively sleepy former
although this itinerary can deal of charm. Ancient, stone- fishing ports of Jelsa or Stari
just as easily be followed built villages characterize the Grad offer a much more laid-
in reverse. fertile interior, while the back, family-attuned experience.
•
Transport Split is the slow-paced fishing ports of
main ferry port for the Stomorska and Maslinica offer Days 6 & 7: Vis
Dalmatian islands, while swimming and relaxation. Hop from Hvar to Vis (pp128–9)
Dubrovnik is connected to to enjoy one of the Adriatic’s
some of the southern islands Day 3: Brač most characterful islands. Vis
in the group. Island-to-island You’ll have to return to Split to favours independent tourists
routes are operated by catch a ferry to Brač (p126), rather than large hotels, and has
passenger-only boat largest of the Dalmatian islands a correspondingly relaxed
services in season. and best-known when it comes atmosphere. The ports of Vis
to beach holidays. Supetar, on town and Komiža are beautifully
the northern coast, boasts unspoiled, and there are some
Day 1: Split broad pebble bays, while Bol wonderful coves for swimming.
Split (pp120–25) is the main to the south is the site of the Accessible by boat from Komiža,
ferry port of the Croatian spectacular Zlatni rat, a spit of the islet of Biševo is famous for
Adriatic, and although you may fine shingle that is one of the the Blue Cave, a sea grotto filled
pass through it more than once most breathtaking bathing with water-filtered light.
in the course of your island- spots in the Adriatic.
hopping trip, it’s well worth Days 8 & 9: Korčula
spending a day exploring this Days 4 & 5: Hvar East of Vis, Korčula (pp138–9) is
multi-layered city. The Roman A catamaran service connects one of the most varied of the
remains that form the heart of Bol with the port of Jelsa on islands, with chic, fashionable
modern Split provide eternally Hvar (pp130–33), an island that Korčula town rubbing shoulders
fascinating points of reference. cries out for a stay of two days with rustic inland villages and
semi-secret beaches. A popular
day-trip from Korčula, Mljet is a
sparsely populated, forested
island taken up in large part by
Mljet National Park (pp142–3).
Inside the park are saltwater
lakes, woodland trails and
plenty of places to hire bikes.
Day 10: Dubrovnik

The sea journey from Korčula to
Dubrovnik (pp146–53) passes
many smaller islands and offers
stunning views of the south
Dalmatian coast – the perfect
Small boats moored at Maslinica on the island of Šolta way to wind up your tour.
surviving amphitheatres in the

world. There are dramatic rocky
beaches right on the outskirts
of town, and Pula’s restaurants
are famous for offering the best
of a regional cuisine rich in fish,
shellfish and truffles.
Day 4: Rab
There are several inviting
islands in the northern Adriatic
but few are quite as idyllic as
Rab (pp84–5). Rab town, the
historic island capital, is famous
for its medieval churches and
Plitvice Lakes National Park, perfect for a lakeside walk or a bracing hike their soaring belfries, while the
nearby villages of Lopar and
then make it the excellent Kampor sit beside some of
Two Weeks in Croatia Museum of Contemporary Art, the most spectacular sandy
showpiece of a restless and beaches and shallow bays in
•
Airports Arrive at Zagreb forward-looking culture. Croatia. Don’t forget to try
and depart from Dubrovnik. the local delicacy, Rapska
•
Transport Mainland Croatia Day 2: Rovinj torta (Rab cake), a delicious
is covered by a fast and Thanks to recent road combination of light pastry
efficient bus network. You improvements Zagreb is only and marzipan.
will need to use ferries to get a few hours’ drive from the
to the islands: Split is the northern coast, where the Day 5: Plitvice Lakes
main passenger port for heart-shaped Istrian peninsula National Park
Hvar and Korčula. juts into the Adriatic. Istria is Returning to the mainland,
studded with Venetian-style scenic roads wind their way
coastal towns and Rovinj (p59) over the Velebit mountain
Day 1: Zagreb is the most charming of the range, a dramatically dry
Croatia’s laid-back capital city, bunch. With its well-preserved and rocky place on its sea-
Zagreb (pp154–71) is the ideal medieval centre, quirky gallery ward side, lush and forested
place to unwind after your scene and some of Croatia’s further east. On the far side
inward journey. A walk round best restaurants, Rovinj is the of the Velebit’s main ridge lies
the atmospheric Upper Town epitome of Adriatic chic. the stunning Plitvice Lakes
sheds light on the country’s National Park (pp88–9),
eventful history, while the Day 3: Pula a frothing sequence of
pedestrianized streets around Standing at the southern apex waterfalls, lakes and streams.
Zagreb’s main square, filled of the Istrian peninsula, the Walkways weave their way
with pavement cafés, are alive port city of Pula (pp62–5) is around the water, while trails
with strollers and socializers. dominated by the 1st-century lead into the wilder, woodland
If you only have time for Roman arena that stands in its parts of the park in the
one sightseeing destination centre, one of the largest surrounding hills.
Prettily painted houses dividing turquoise sea and sky, Rovinj

For practical information on travelling around Croatia see pp274–81
Day 9: Trogir
Lying between Šibenik and
Split, Trogir (pp114–17) is one of
the most delightful small towns
of the Croatian Adriatic, not
least because of the medieval
cathedral that towers above the
Old Town. Trogir’s perfectly
preserved web of tiny streets
and small squares is ideal
for long evening walks; plentiful
harbour-side cafés will help
you unwind.
Rab town, capital of the island of Rab, Day 10: Split Palms and parasols outside the Church and
with its distinctive bell towers The unofficial capital of the Monastery of St. Dominic, Trogir
Adriatic and its main passenger
Day 6: Zadar port, Split (pp120–25) is one Day 12: Korčula
A short drive southwest of of those Mediterranean cities The turreted medieval town of
Plitvice, Zadar (pp94–9) is that simply bubbles with Korčula (pp138–9) is one of the
the main seaport serving the character. It was founded as a coast’s historic gems, its solid-
northern Dalmatian islands. It is retirement home by the Roman stone core of ancient houses
also one of the rising stars of emperor Diocletian, and the split by tiny stepped streets.
Adriatic tourism, with bold new remains of his palace still form Some of Croatia’s best beaches
public artworks such as Sea the core of the Old Town. lie just out of town at Lumbarda.
Organ and Greeting to the Sun Crammed with cafés and bars, Korčula is known for fine wines
by architect Nikola Bašić giving this buzzing hive of daytime and seafood, although many
the seafront of this vibrant and night-time activity village restaurants in the island’s
peninsula city a uniquely represents maritime Croatia interior serve up delicious roast
contemporary feel. There is a at its most vivacious. meats. Don’t leave without
wealth of Roman and medieval sampling cukarin, a delicious
monuments to explore, and the Day 11: Hvar local citrus-flavoured biscuit.
main food market is one of A short ferry ride from Split,
the liveliest on the coast. Hvar (pp130–33) is an Days 13 & 14: Dubrovnik
An evening stroll along the outstanding example of what After a short ferry-hop from
promenade is compulsory: makes the new Croatia so Korčula, travelling to Dubrovnik
sunsets here are spectacular. popular with visitors. Cocktail by land takes you along the
bars and yacht marinas add Pelješac peninsula, famous for
Day 7: Šibenik contemporary swank to the its red wines and oysters – stop
The main city of mid-Dalmatia, Renaissance backdrop of Hvar for lunch at Ston (p137) to enjoy
Šibenik (pp108–11), is steeped town, while elsewhere on the both. Once in Dubrovnik itself
in history, with a warren of island, sleepy villages and you will need at least a day and
picturesque alleyways jostling pebble-beached coves offer a half to get the best out of this
below an impressive ensemble up a soothing blend of rest enchanting city: see the two-
of hilltop fortresses. Local and relaxation. day itinerary on p12 for ideas.
restaurants serve outstanding
fresh seafood and superb local
wines, especially the dry red
Babić from nearby Primošten.
Day 8: Krka National Park

Šibenik is the ideal base from
which to visit the spectacular
Krka National Park just inland
(pp106–7), an extensive natural
wonderland that you will need
a whole day to explore. The
pretty town of Skradin is the
gateway to Skradinski buk,
where you can bathe beside
waterfalls and visit old
watermills. Boat trips take you
deeper into the park, through
lakes and canyons. Pula’s Roman amphitheatre, now used to stage concerts and other events
Putting Croatia on the Map Judenburg
Covering an area of 56,594 sq km (21,825 sq miles), Croatia AUSTRIA Graz

has a population of approximately 4,285,000 with an average
of 76 inhabitants per square kilometre. Since the break-up
Wolfsberg
of the former Yugoslavia, and Croatian independence, the
country has been bordered by Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia-
Dr
au
Herzegovina and the two now independent republics of Klagenfurt Maribor
Serbia and Montenegro. It is not a large country, but it has a Slovenj Gradec
wide variety of natural and man-made environments. From
a topographical point of view the country is made up of Kranj
SLOVENIA
three types of terrain. Much is mountainous, with peaks up Celje
to 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high, mostly covered with forest and
pasture. The vast Pannonian Plain lies between the rivers Ljubljana Krško
Drava, Sava and the Danube. Coastal Croatia is nearly 600 km
Ivančna
(372 miles) long, but over 2,000 km (1,242 miles) long when Gorica
the indented coastline is taken into account, and twice Postojna

Jastrebarsko
that when the hundreds of islands are included. Kočevje
Ilirska Bistrica
Koper
Karlovac
Umag Delnice
Buje
Rijeka
ra
ob
Poreč Pazin Kraljevica
D
Ogulin
Plomin Novi Vinodolski

Rovinj Krk Slunj
Krk
Vodnjan
Cres Senj
Ferrara Baška
Pula Otočac
Cres Rab
Jablanac
Bologna
Ravenna Novalija Lički Osik
Lošinj Karlobag
Pag
Silba
Forli
Adriatic Pag
Sea Nin
Rimini Zadar
Benkovac
SAN Dugi Otok
Bagno Pesaro Pašman
MARINO
di Romagna
Ancona
ITALY
Žirje
Arezzo
Civitanova Marche
Corridonia
Lake Perugia
Trasimeno
San Benedetto
Ascoli del Tronto
Piceno
Teramo
Lake Terni
Bolsena
Pescara
L'Aquila
Lake
Bracciano
Sulmona
Avezzano
Termoli
Rome
P U T T I N G C R O AT I A O N T H E M A P  17
Hartberg Szombathely Europe NO RWAY

Veszprém SW E D E N
North
HUNGARY
Sea DENMAR K
Zalaegerszeg Lake UNITED

Balaton KINGDOM
REP. OF BELARUS
IRELAND NETHERLANDS
POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH UKRAINE
REPUBLIC
SLOVAKIA
FRANCE AUSTRIA HUNGARY

Nagybajom Atlantic SWITZ.
Čakovec Ocean SLOV. ROMANIA
CROATIA
Varaždin BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ.
Nagyatád I TA LY
MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA
Krapina
Koprivnica ALBANIA
MAC.
PORTUGAL
Szigetvár
Ðurđevac SPAIN GREECE
Bjelovar
Zagreb Virovitica
TUNISIA
Čazma Mediterranean
ALGERIA Sea
CROATIA
MOROCCO
Ivanić
Grad
Daruvar Osijek
Sisak Erdut
Kutina
Velika Našice
Glina Lipik
Novska Vinkovci
Novi Sad
Sa
Požega Ðakovo
va
Ilok
Kostajnica Vrpolje
Stara Slavonski Sremska
Gradiška Brod Županja Mitrovica
Bosanskj
Novi
Banja Luka Belgrade

Bijeljina
Doboj
Šabac
Teslić
Bosanski
Petrovac
Mrkonjić Grad Tuzla SERBIA

Zavidovići
Otrič Jajce Travnik Valjevo

Zenica
Vlasenica
BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA
Knin Bugojno
Sarajevo Sokolac Uzice

Drniš Livno Višegrad
Šibenik Sinj Gorazde
Konjic
Trogir Split Foča

Imotski
Mostar
Šolta
Brač Makarska
Šehovina
Hvar MONTENEGRO
Čapljina
Ploče
Metković
Vis Korčula Badija
Neum Bileća
Korčula Jasenovo Key
Polije
Motorway
Lastovo Mljet Dubrovnik Motorway under
construction
Herceg Major road
Novi
Minor road
Railway line
0 kilometres 75
International border
0 miles 50
Ferry route
Greece,
Egypt Bari
For keys to symbols see back flap
I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A  19
A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA
Croatia forms a meeting point between the Mediterranean and central
Europe, and between the Alps and the Pannonian Plain. Its relatively small
territory is made up of a wide variety of landscapes. A stunningly beautiful
country, it has re-emerged from the difficult years of conflict and regained
its role as a popular holiday destination.
Croatia seceded from the Federal of World War I, Croatia declared

Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia in 1990, independence but, under pressure
following the first free elections since from greater powers, agreed to become
World War II. However, the brutal conflict part of the kingdom of Yugoslavia.
that quickly followed had disastrous From the ruins of the Habsburg empire
effects on the economy and led to the emerged Yugoslavia: a new state of
damage and destruction of many historic Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes.
monuments and treasures. The United Few people live in the steep
Nations administered disputed territories mountainous areas and as a result
until 1995, and the last region, Eastern the forests of this region, among the
Slavonia, was returned to Croatian most beautiful in southern Europe,
administration in January 1998. are unspoilt. The coast and larger
The resolution of the conflict recreated islands are more densely populated
a country which had lost its autonomy and the income from tourism is
long ago in 1102, when Croatian important to many. The political
nobles handed the vacant crown to upheavals of the last decade of the
King Koloman. Under Koloman, Croatia 20th century have caused a shifting
became part of Hungary and remained of the population and many Serbs
so for 900 years, until 1918. At the end have moved away.
Zrmanja river valley, running below the Velebit mountains, Dalmatia

Pretty quayside on the island town of Krk
and provides employment for an

increasing number of workers,
mainly in the tourist sector, which
has recovered after a decade of
recession and neglect: 7 per cent
of the population is employed
in this area. Demand for fresh
fish to supply the tourist resorts
means that the fishing industry
has revived and mussel farming
has also expanded, in particular
along the Limski Channel and
around Ston. The privatization
Fisherman mending his nets in the port of Fažana of much agricultural land, and the
introduction of modern machinery
Population and the rationalization of crops, have
According to a census carried out in reduced the number of farm workers.
2011, Croatia has a population of However, the production of fruit and
4,284,889. Compared with the census wine grapes has recovered, and overall
of 2001, this is a decrease of nearly quality is improving significantly.
155,000 in the population. These figures, The urgent need to rebuild public
a reflection of the upheavals of the 1990s, and privately owned buildings
reduce the numbers to the population damaged during the conflict in the
levels of 1968. Two different factors were 1990s and the ever-increasing demand
responsible for these changes: firstly, for tourist facilities keeps the numbers
the departure of thousands of employed in the building trade high:
Serbians (partially offset by the 7 per cent of the workforce is
return of Croatians resident in involved in the construction
other parts of former Yugoslavia), industry. However, in spite of
and secondly, the emigration of an improved standard of living
many young people in search for most of the population,
of work in other countries in unemployment is still high.
Europe, America or Australia. Croatia hopes to resolve most
The tragic events of the of its employment problems
1990s have also altered the now that it has joined the
distribution of the population, European Union, offering
emptying villages and concen- land, energy and labour at
trating populations in large competitive costs. The building
urban centres. Changes to the Woman in the typical of a modern road network
size of many towns and cities, costume of Konavle with the construction of new
the result of enlarging their motorways, the modernization
territorial boundaries, make detailed of the railways and plans to improve the
analysis difficult, particularly with regard ports will also help to alleviate high
to Zagreb, Rijeka, Split, Osijek and Zadar. unemployment levels.
Economy Traditions and Customs

Manufacturing industries are Since the rebirth of the Croatian
concentrated in the larger cities and state, all kinds of traditional festivals
employ 20 per cent of the population. have reappeared. These festivals,
The service industry is being overhauled ceremonies or games commemorate
A P O R T R A I T O F C R O AT I A  21
historical, religious and military

events. Some festivals are expressions
of primitive or ancient faith, and mix
Christianity with ancient pagan rites;
others are linked to the religious
calendar. Traditional costumes and
jewellery, carefully preserved by the
older generation, are worn on
these occasions. The materials may
sometimes be new but the designs
stay faithfully traditional. One of many religious events in Split
Other expressions of popular culture
are the rites linked to the rhythms of Language
farming: harvesting, bringing flocks The attempt to fuse the Croatian
down from the mountains, felling and Serbian languages lasted more
trees. The Feast of St Blaise, the patron than a century, but in 1991 the
saint of Dubrovnik, is magnificent. official language of Croatia became
People from local and surrounding Croatian, and this is now part of
parishes gather, dressed in splendid the constitution. The language has
costumes and displaying ancient always been a fundamental part of
banners in honour of the saint. Croatian identity, even under foreign
Even the communists were unable domination. The people continue to
to suppress this tradition. Another use three basic dialects, štokavski in
spectacular festivity is the Olympics southern and eastern Croatia, čakavski
of Ancient Sports in Brođanci, when in Istria and parts of Dalmatia, and
young people parade in gold- kajkavski in Zagreb and the north.
embroidered costumes, followed by A dialect similar to Venetian is spoken
groups of musicians. Other important along the coast.
events are the Festival of the Bumbari
in Vodnjan with its donkey race, the Religion
Folk Festival in Ðakovo and the Religious feeling has always been
Moreška and Kumpanija festivals in important to Croatians. Religion
Korčula, commemorating battles was relegated to a secondary role
against the Ottoman Turks. during the communist period but the
great sanctuaries are
once again centres of
spirituality. In the 2011
census, 90 per cent
declared they were
Christian (86 per cent
Catholic, 4 per cent
Orthodox), with a
Muslim minority,
mostly Bosnians, and
a Protestant minority,
mostly Hungarians.
The Orthodox
community has shrunk
due to the fall in the
Visitors admiring historic buildings in Split’s Old Town number of Serbians.
The Landscape and Wildlife of Croatia

A wide variety of landscapes can be found in Croatia, from
wild uninhabited craggy gorges to steep river valleys and a
stunningly beautiful indented coastline stretching into the
lower Adriatic, dotted with hundreds of islands. A plateau
stretches from the Istrian peninsula towards Gorski kotar
and ends in the hilly vine-growing region of Zagorje. The
geological formations produced by the porous limestone
terrain called karst are found in Gorski kotar and continue
to nearby Istria and the Velebit mountains, where the
combination of wind, rain and rock has created strange
shapes called kukovi. Nicknames and legends have been
created by folklore for these rock formations, and for the
thousands of rocky islands off the coast, remnants of an Seagull perched on a rocky outcrop near
ancient mountain chain. the island of Pag
Mountains The Plain

Mountains form 40 per cent of Croatia and rise The plain is bordered by wide rivers which also
to nearly 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high. The higher define Croatia’s borders for much of their length.
land is given over to sheep farming and the The vast Pannonian Plain is the breadbasket
breeding of livestock. The forests are mixed, of Croatia. Maize, wheat, soya and tobacco are
with pine, fir, chestnut and beech, depending grown here and at the fringes are vine-covered
on altitude and microclimate. The wildlife hills. At one time there were forests here,
includes bears, wolves, wild boar, lynxes, dominated by the Slavonian oak, much sought-
badgers, foxes, roebucks and chamois. Forestry after in Europe for the quality of its wood. A few
management aims to control deforestation. isolated remnants of these forests can still be seen.
The forests are a precious The oak of Slavonia,

resource in Croatia. Thick famous since ancient times,
vegetation covers more was used to build most of
than 30 per cent of the ships in the Venetian and
the country. Dubrovnik fleets, because of
its extraordinary strength.
The Croatian plain

The chamois was thought to is one of the most
have disappeared from Croatia fertile areas in
but there are now a dozen or Europe. Some
so animals originating agricultural produce
from Slovenia. is exported.
National Parks
Croatia began protecting wildlife areas of particular
importance in 1949 by setting up the Plitvice Lakes
National Park on the Lika plateau. A few years later, the
Risnjak National Park was founded north of Rijeka,
then in 1985 the Krka National Park north of Šibenik.
The Paklenica National Park, at the heart of the Velebit
mountain chain, dates from 1949. In 1978 it was declared
a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO and later included
on the list of World Heritage Sites. It is home to over
2,400 species of plant. There are four national parks in Risnjak National Park with its thick forests of fir
the Adriatic: the Mljet National Park, founded in 1960, and beech
the Kornati National Park (1980), the Brijuni National Park
(1983) and the North Velebit National Park (1999). There are also nature reserves, oases, biotopes
(environments characterized by particular conditions) and two marshes: Kopački rit and Lonjsko
polje. In 2008, Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Coast Lakes and Rivers

The coast’s appearance is determined by the The lakes of Croatia are not large, but some are
extent of its exposure to the fierce, northeast truly spectacular, as for example those of Plitvice
bora wind. Mediterranean flora flourishes on the and those formed by the River Krka. The rivers
sheltered side, with olives, lemon trees and vines. are another of Croatia’s valuable resources. The
Low-growing vines are cultivated along the central Danube, Drava, Sava and Kupa are all navigable
part of the coast and on some of the islands, and form international transport routes
sheltered from the wind by stone walls. Two (although traffic is currently partly interrupted).
common plants along the coast and on the islands The rivers abound with a variety of fish and are
are lavender, particularly on Hvar, and broom. a big attraction for fishing enthusiasts.
The marine life is Waterlilies are in

extraordinarily varied, with flower in late spring,
a wide range of species particularly in Lonjsko
including sea-horses. polje and Kopački rit.
Broom is a common Storks live near the rivers as well as

sight in Croatia. In in protected nature reserves in
spring, it bears bright Croatia. The wetlands make an ideal
yellow flowers. habitat for the rare black stork.
Art and Artists in Croatia

For centuries Croatian art has combined elements from eastern
and western Europe. The coast was ruled by Venice for 400 years,
and between the Middle Ages and the 17th century, Croatia
was in regular contact with the other side of the Adriatic. Italian
artists came to the islands to work, and the Dalmatians crossed
the sea and brought Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance
styles back to their country. After the expulsion of the Turks
at the end of the 17th century, many churches were rebuilt in
the Baroque style, and acquired rich ornamentation. The
20th century saw the advent of Naive painting, an important
artistic trend, and sculptor Ivan Meštrović was confirmed as Maria Banac, sculpture by
Croatia’s most famous contemporary artist (see p163). Ivan Meštrović
lived in the 13th century. His

Sculpture name appears on the door of
The art of sculpture in Croatia the cathedral in Trogir, which
has ancient origins and may he started in about 1240 and
have been inspired by the which was later completed
local stone, used to construct by other artists. This complex
some of the most important masterpiece has columns,
Roman monuments in Pula arches, sculpted relief figures
and Split, which became and rich decoration. It is
models for future generations Wooden panel by Andrija Buvina in possible to discern scenes
of Adriatic sculptors. Split cathedral from the life of Christ such as
Sculpture and stone the nnunciation, the Flight to
carving reached the height 13th century. The great door Egypt, and the Martyrdom on
of expression with the of the cathedral of his native Golgotha, while other sculptures
Romanesque style. Dating city is testament to his skill. represent the months of the
from this time are the This masterpiece from 1214 year. The artist’s expressive skill
cathedral doors of Trogir and consists of 28 wooden panels is revealed in the figures of
Split, the rose windows of depicting scenes from the Adam and Eve in particular.
Zadar and Rab, the capitals Gospels of the life of Christ,
in the cloisters in Dubrovnik and uses simple lines allied Juraj Dalmatinac
and Zadar, and much church to a wealth of detail. Juraj Dalmatinac, also known
statuary. The technical skills as Giorgio Orsini, was an
of the Renaissance period Master Radovan ambassador for Dalmatian art,
are documented in Šibenik The sculptor Master Radovan which was greatly influenced
cathedral, with masterpieces was of Dalmatian origin and by Venice. The artist was born in
by Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola Zadar in about 1400 and died in
Firentinac and Andrija Aleši. 1475. He was active in Dalmatia
The stonemasons should also and in Italy as a sculptor and
be remembered, particularly an architect. The
those of Korčula. Decades of cathedral of St
skilled work went into Korčula James in Šibenik
cathedral and the masons’ work (see pp110–11),
can be seen in hundreds of to which he
other Croatian towns and cities. contributed, is
Sculpture again reached a regarded as a
peak in the 20th century with masterpiece
Ivan Meštrović, the chief figure of the Croatian Face by
in a group of great artists which Renaissance. Dalmatinac in
included Antun Augustinčić. Dalmatinac the cathedral
sculpted the faces of Šibenik
Andrija Buvina on the upper part
All that is known of this of the base of the apses and also
sculptor is that he was born The door of the cathedral of Trogir by the statues of Adam and Eve at
in Split and lived in the Master Radovan either side of the Door of Lions.
Vincent od Kastva Saints Julian and Nicholas (1465)

Artists One of the most expressive is in the church of St Mary of
Painting in Croatia cannot cycles of frescoes in Istria Danče (Sv. Marije na Dančama).
boast a history equal to that bears the signature of this
of sculpture since it was Istrian painter, Vincent od
only after contact with the Kastva (Vincenzo da Castua),
Venetian school at the end of who lived in the 15th century.
the 16th century that Croatian The frescoes are hidden away
painting emerged in Istria in the small church of St Mary
and Dalmatia. The monasteries (Sv. Marija na Škriljinah) in
and cathedrals commissioned Beram. The brightly coloured
Venetian masters to make frescoes on the side walls
altarpieces and in emulating and the inside façade were
these models the great artists painted, with assistants, in
of Dubrovnik developed. about 1471 and have a
In the late 17th and 18th primitive but vigorous style.
centuries, the Baroque style The Life of Christ and the Virgin
predominated in inland has figures of saints; the best-
Croatia in architecture as well known work is the Dance of
as art. Baroque originated in Death, where Death, holding Detail, polyptych by Lovro Dobričević in
German-speaking areas and a scythe, punishes sinners, the church of St Mary of Danče
inspired local artists; the here represented by all the
Austrian artist Ivan Ranger most powerful people on
(see p210) was a key figure. earth (from the pope to lords Julije Klović
Interest in religious paintings of the manor). Julije Klović (Giulio Clovio)
then dwindled, and in the was one of the most famous
19th century, young artists Lovro Dobričević Renaissance miniaturists.
were inspired by pan-European Little is known of Lovro A native of Croatia (he was
culture. In the 1930s and Marinov Dobričević (Lorenzo born in Grižane
1940s Naive Art developed. de Boninis), pupil of Paolo in 1498), his
Veneziano, who lived most significant
in the 15th century works are found
and is regarded as one outside the
of the most significant country.
exponents of the The painter
Dubrovnik school. developed his
Two of his great works craft in Venice,
are in Dubrovnik: the and was then
Baptism of Christ summoned to Miniature
(c.1448) is in the work in Rome, by Klović
Dominican Museum Mantua, Perugia
and the polyptych and numerous monasteries.
Dance of Death by Vincent od Kastva Virgin, Christ and the He died in Rome in 1578.
The Hlebine School

Krsto Hegedušić (1901–75), Expressionist painter and later a Naive artist, founded a group of artists called
Zemlja (“Earth”). He encouraged the work of two amateur painters from the village of Hlebine, near
Koprivnica: Ivan Generalić and Franjo Mraz, who depicted their local world on glass and canvas in fresh,
vivid style. Together with Mirko Virius they founded the Hlebine School which flourished from 1930 to
the beginning of World War II. Many other
painters, including Ivan Večenaj, Dragan
Gaži, Franjo Filipović and Josip Generalić,
followed their ideas, concentrating on
depicting the lives of outcasts, the poor, and
working folk. The Hlebine School became a
worldwide phenomenon with the 1952
Venice Biennale and exhibitions in Brazil and
Brussels. Naive works are on show at the
Hlebine Gallery in Koprivnica and the
Woodcutters by Generalić, Museum of Naive Art, Zagreb Museum of Naive Art in Zagreb.
Architecture in Croatia
Croatian architecture, like its art, has also been influenced
by Croatia’s position in Europe. Secular and religious
buildings display a fusion of elements from nearby Italy
and Germany and other forms originating in the Byzantine
or Slavic worlds. This blending of influences was first
noticeable in the time of the Romans and still continues
today. Some styles became particularly important: for
example the impressive cathedrals of the Adriatic coast,
the legacy of many centuries of Venetian rule. In inland
Croatia Baroque architecture prevails, characterized by The Byzantine Euphrasian Basilica
exuberant decoration and expansive forms. in Poreč
Pre-Romanesque and Romanesque

True Croatian architecture begins with pre-Romanesque and dates
back to the time of Duke Branimir (879–92), who created the first state
of Croatia. Contact with the Byzantine world influenced the look of
religious buildings in Istria and Dalmatia but some decorative elements
reveal the first signs of Romanesque: small churches with irregular
ground-plans appear in areas inhabited by Croatian tribes. The founding
of Šibenik (1066) saw the first Romanesque buildings, introduced by the
Cistercians. The style spread and remained popular until the end of the
16th century, and three-aisle cathedrals with apses were built as well as
monasteries with cloisters, public buildings, town halls and loggias.
The façade consists of vertical

Romanesque rose The arched main
and horizontal lines: the upper window door, richly The Church of the
order is decorated with blind decorated Holy Cross in Nin (see
arcades and rose windows. p102), one of the most
interesting examples of
The Cathedral of the pre-Romanesque and
St Anastasia in Zadar known as the world’s
(see p96), founded in the smallest cathedral, was
9th century but rebuilt built in the 9th century. It
in the 12th–13th, shows has a Greek cross ground-
the links between Croatian plan with three apses. It is
and Italian Romanesque, positioned to ensure that
particularly in the façade, the sun’s rays fall in pre-
similar to churches found in planned positions on the
Pisa and Lucca in Italy. floor and act as a clock.
Gothic The door with

an ogival arch is
The Gothic style, more than any other in Croatia, is lasting evidence decorated with thin
of the long rule of the Venetians along the Istrian and Dalmatian spiral columns and
coasts. It developed following the Venetian conquest of the Adriatic has two lions on
coast (1420) and is a fundamental expression of the close contact the corbel.
that was established. Venetian Gothic not only influenced the design Rose window
of Dalmatian and Istrian churches but also mansions in Pula, Rab,
Pag, Zadar, Šibenik and Split.
The Cathedral of St Mark in Korčula

(see p138) is of Romanesque origins – the bell
tower is evidence of this. The façade shows
similarities with churches in Puglia in southern
Italy. Gothic elements include the pointed
Façade of the Town Hall arches over the entrance door, which was the
in Split work of Bonino of Milan.
Renaissance
The Renaissance style was only able to The second storey,
develop in those parts of the country with windows and
a statue of the city’s
which did not fall under Turkish rule. patron saint, St Blaise,
The most important architects and artists in the centre, was a
of the time were Juraj Dalmatinac (see later addition.
p24), Nikola Firentinac and Andrija Aleši,
who worked mainly along the Adriatic
The windows in
coast. They were all involved in the Venetian Gothic
construction of churches and public symbolize the ties
buildings. The cathedral of St James in between Dubrovnik
Šibenik (see pp110–11) became a model and Venice.
for the churches of St Stephen in Hvar,
St Mary in Zadar and St Saviour in
Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik (see p150) has both Gothic
Dubrovnik. Renaissance buildings also and Renaissance elements, a reflection of the time it
appeared in the north of Croatia, both took to build. It was begun in 1312 (the beautiful Gothic
in the form of private residences windows on the first floor date from this period) and
(Varaždin and Čakovec) and castles remodelled in 1516–22, when the Renaissance arcaded
(Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor). loggia on the ground floor was added.
Baroque
This was the style that characterized the legitimization of Christian
worship in Croatia after the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the
17th century. The signs of Ottoman rule were eradicated and architects,
mainly of German extraction, constructed public and private buildings,
enriching them with ornate decorations equal to those of the churches,
castles and sanctuaries. The most notable examples of the Baroque style
can be found in Varaždin, Požega, Osijek, Križevci, Ludbreg and Krapina.
Vojković-Oršić-Kulmer-Rauch Palace, now home of the Croatian

Historical Museum (see p164), is one of many fine Baroque buildings in
Zagreb. The façade and interior have the sumptuous decorations of the
time with elegant columns, scalloped windows and a decorated tympanum.
Modernism
By the 19th century Zagreb had become the
centre of political and cultural life in Croatia,
which gave it a prominent role as leader in
the architectural field. Much experimentation
took place in the following century in the
capital, inspired first by the Viennese Secession
style and later by Modernism. The church of
St Blaise and Villa Krauss are interesting
examples of the latter style.
The Neo-Renaissance Mimara Museum in Zagreb
The typically elegant

building is functional The decorations in Secession style
are stylized and not figurative.
and symmetrical
On the façade
are sculptures and
bas-reliefs by the
Croatian artists
Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović and
The former National and University Library in the centre of Marulić Square in Rudolf Valdec.
Zagreb was designed by a local architect, Rudolf Lubinsky. It is regarded as the
most significant work in the Secession style in Croatia.
CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR

The upheavals of the decade from 1991 and the threshing, fishing and hunting
to 2000 inevitably affected the calender seasons, are also marked. In addition, every
of events which characterized the cultural town celebrates its patron saint’s day and
life of Croatia. However, concerts, theatre the “town’s day”, which is linked to episodes
seasons and sporting events have now in the town’s history. Zagreb offers a rich
largely been resumed along with religious calendar of cultural events all through the
festivals and a variety of events linked to year, while the festivals in the towns and
local traditions. The different stages in the villages along the coast are generally held
agricultural year, such as the grape harvest during the summer season.
April
Spring Musical Biennial of Zagreb Summer
The arrival of spring in Croatia (Apr). Festival of modern music. As this is the season when
coincides with a series of St George’s Day, Senj (23 Apr). most tourists visit Croatia,
important dates in the religious St Vincenca’s Day, Korčula particularly Istria and
calendar. Spring brings warmer (28 Apr). The Kumpanjija Dalmatia, this is also the
weather and also sees the dance, which commemorates period when the calendar
beginning of a series of an ancient battle, is performed. of events is busiest. There
festivals and events which At the finale local girls in are festivals dedicated to
continue throughout the costume dance in a circle. music, theatre and dance,
summer. Catholic churches Regatta Rovinj–Pesaro– Rovinj, as well as many traditional
are especially busy around Rovinj (late Apr/early May). festivals. The folk festivals
Easter time, with its Sailing race to Italy and back, held throughout the
associated rituals. with various associated events. summer are particularly
colourful events.
May
Croatian Wine Exhibition, June
Kutjevo (May). Displays of Dance Week, Zagreb
Croatian wines plus a folklore (end May/Jun). International
and music programme. festival of dance, movement
Days of Hvar Theatre, Hvar and mime, organized in
(May). Annual celebration of collaboration with
Croatian literature and theatre, European associations.
as well as scientific themes and Music events, Pula (all
presentations by scientists from summer). Various events in
other countries. the Roman amphitheatre.
St Mark’s Festival, Zagreb (May). Festival of Satire, Zagreb
Sacred music at various venues. (Jun). International festival
Tournament of Rab (9 May). celebrating the satirical.
Parade of costumed riders Brodsko kolo, Slavonski
with crossbows. Brod (mid-Jun). Displays of
International Small Scene
Theatre Festival, Rijeka (first
half of May). Groups from all
over Europe participate.
Procession during Holy Week on the Josip Štolcer Slavenski
island of Korčula Memorial, Čakovec (first half of
May). Musical festival dedicated
March to the great 20th-century
Holy Week (Easter). On Korčula Croatian composer.
Easter is celebrated with Festival of Croatian Tambour
processions of brother- Music, Osijek (mid-May).
hoods performing mystery Festival of ancient music with
plays and singing. period instruments, including
Dora Pejačević Memorial, the tambour.
Našice (Mar). Music festival Croatian One-Minute-Film
commemorating this Festival, Požega (end May).
Croatian composer, with Screenings of short amateur The festival of Brodsko Kolo,
concerts and competitions. films and videos. Slavonski Brod
C R O AT I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R  29
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine

The Dalmatian coast is
Hours
10
one of the sunniest parts
of Europe, and the island
8 of Hvar holds the record
with its 2,700 hours of
6 sun a year. The summers
along the coast are
4 hot and dry, while the
inland areas have a
2
continental climate
0
with hot summers and
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec cold winters.
Labin Art Republic, Labin (Jul–

Aug). Classical and folk concerts.
Musical Evenings in St Donat,
Zadar (mid-Jul–beginning Aug).
Church, theatre and
instrumental music.
Osor Music Festival, Osor (mid-
Jul–mid-Aug). Chamber music.
Split Summer (mid-Jul–mid-Aug).
A programme of opera,
concerts, dance, theatre and
performances of the first plays
written in the Croatian language.
Dubrovnik Summer Festival,
Dubrovnik (mid-Jul–end Aug). The
oldest international festival in
Croatia: music, theatre, folklore,
ballet, with performers from
Đakovački Vezovi, a folklore and embroidery festival in Đakovo many countries.
Krk Summer Events, Krk (Jul–
folk dancing in costume, medieval times, with craft Aug). Music and prose, concerts,
shows and exhibitions of displays, public preparation ballet, performances by young
regional produce. of traditional dishes and an artists and folklore.
Đakovački vezovi, Đakovo archery tournament. Concerts in the Basilica of
(mid-Jun–early Jul). Folklore International Jazz Festival, Euphrasius, Poreč (Jul–mid Sep).
displays and exhibition of Grožnjan (Jul). International jazz Performances of church and
local embroidery. artists participate in this festival secular music given by Croatian
Summer of Margherita, in the picturesque Istrian town and European musicians.
Bakar (Jun/Jul). Concerts and of Grožnjan.
performances in the local Summer Carnival, Novi
čakavski dialect. Vinodolski (Jul).
International Children’s International Festival of
Festival, Šibenik (end Theatre, Pula (Jul). Multimedia
Jun–beginning Jul). Festival festival with the participation
dedicated to the creativity of of other European groups.
the very young. Music, dance, St Theodore’s Day, Korčula
theatre and film. (29 Jul). Features the Moreška,
a dance re-enacting a battle
July between Christians and Muslims.
Summer Festival, Hvar International Tennis
(Jul). A fun festival of music, Tournament, Umag (end Jul).
theatre, folklore and dancing. International Folklore
Festival klapa, Omiš (Jul). Festival, Zagreb (end Jul).
Celebration of traditional Croatian music and dance
Dalmatian songs performed with international guests.
by groups of five to ten men. Pag Carnival, Pag (end Jul).
Rapska fjera, Rab (Jul). Traditional dancing, kolo, and
For three days the historic various shows with the local The Moreška dance, St Theodore’s
town of Rab is returned to people in traditional costumes. Day, Korčula
Average Monthly Rainfall

Rainfall
MM Inches
Rain is sparse along the
300 12
coast, particularly in
240 10 summer, when there
8
is often the threat of
180 drought. However, in
6 the mountains, rain and
120 snow are plentiful. In
4
60
northeastern parts of the
2 country there may be
0 0 summer thunderstorms.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Winter brings snow.
Autumn
Visiting Croatia in this season
means there are fewer crowds,
even along the busy Adriatic
coast. However this season
also offers an unexpectedly
rich and varied calendar of
events. Many of the events
are cultural but there are also
several festivals celebrating
wine and food – offering an
ideal opportunity to discover
some of the local produce of
this country.
September
Festival of the Golden
Strings of Slavonia, Požega
(Sep). Festival of folk and
Costumed jousters on horseback during the folk festival, Sinj modern music using the
traditional Slavonian
August Events include the Mostra, a instrument, the tamburica.
Pag Art Festival, Pag (Aug). traditional sword dance. At one Lace Exhibition, Lepoglava
This small island’s world-famous time the festivities ended (Sep). Exhibition of
pianist, Lovro Pogorelić, organizes with the sacrifice of an ox. traditional hand-made lace,
a two-week programme of Trka na prstenac, Barban still made according to
classical music concerts and (3rd weekend in Aug). Jousting ancient methods.
other artistic events, attracting tournament, dating back to 1696. Week of Kajkavian Culture,
international performers. Olympics of Ancient Sports, Krapina (Sep). Festival of
Sinjska alka, Sinj (beginning Brođanci (last Sun in Aug). Folk Kajkavian poetry, folk music
Aug). Folklore festival festival with traditional games, and painting.
commemorating victory costumes and musicians International Doll Festival,
over the Turks, with jousting playing in the streets. Zagreb (Sep).
competitions for horse riders. Vinkovačke jeseni,
Parades, dancing, folk music and Vinkovci (Sep). Festival
displays of regional produce. of music and folk
Baljanska noć, Bale (first Sun traditions. Parades
in Aug). Festival of the city. in costume.
Festival of the Bumbari, Grape Festival, Buje
Vodnjan (2nd Sat in Aug). (3rd weekend in Sep).
“Bumbari” is what the local Baroque Evenings
people call themselves. A folk in Varaždin, Varaždin
festival in costume with an (second half of Sep–
unusual donkey race and the first half of Oct). Festival
preparation of kroštule (crostoli), of Baroque music with
cakes of Venetian origin. the participation of
St Roch’s Day, Žrnovo and top Croatian and
Postrana (on Korčula) (16 Aug). Festival of Vinkovačke Jeseni, Vinkovci European musicians.
C R O AT I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R  31
Average Monthly Temperature

°C °F Temperature
85
30 The climate in Croatia is
25 75
typically Mediterranean
along the coast, with
20
65 mild winters and hot,
15 dry summers. Inland the
55 climate is continental
10
with hot summers
5 45
and cold winters. The
0 32 mountainous areas
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec have an alpine climate.
October January
Bela nedeja, Kastav (first Winter St Vincent’s Day, Međimurje
Sun in Oct). Wine festival. The cold makes itself felt (late Jan). Join local growers
Marunada, Lovran (mid-Oct). throughout Croatia, with to toast the patron saint of
Chestnut festival. the temperatures in wine, with tastings, food
Olive Days, Punat (Oct). A great Zagreb and Slavonia and music.
opportunity to participate in the dropping well below
olive harvest festivities on the freezing point and February
island of Krk. Visitors can pick the cold bora wind Feast of St Blaise,
olives to the strains of fluting sweeping across Dubrovnik (3 Feb).
sopile music, then enjoy an Istria and Dalmatia. Processions celebrating
olive-based feast, prepared by But Croatians still the town’s saint.
competing cooks from all over love to go out and Shrovetide sezona,
Croatia, in the evening. enjoy themselves Kraljevica. Traditional
The Town’s Day, Lipik and attend masked ball.
(4 Oct). Traditional festival cultural events. Carnival of
celebrating the town. Costume at the Carnival Rijeka, Rijeka.
December of Lastovo Colourful
November The Town’s Day, Osijek parade in
St Martin’s Day, Dugo Selo, (2 Dec). Celebration of Osijek’s elaborate costumes.
Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, main feast day with music Carnival of the Riviera, Opatija.
Velika Gorica, Zagreb County and dancing. International Violin
(Nov). A traditional wine festival Advent in Zagreb (Dec). Musical, Competition (Vaclav Huml),
that celebrates the period artistic and gastronomical events Zagreb (first half of Feb).
when the must is turned are held in the city’s squares to For violinists under 30.
into wine. celebrate the Christmas season. Carnival, Lastovo.
Croatian Holidays
New Year’s Day 1 Jan
Epiphany 6 Jan
Easter Sunday and
Monday Mar or Apr
Labour Day 1 May
Corpus Christi May or Jun
Anti-Fascist Victory
Day 22 Jun
Statehood Day 25 Jun
Victory and National
Thanksgiving Day 5 Aug
Assumption Day 15 Aug
Independence Day 8 Oct
All Saints’ Day 1 Nov
Christmas 25 Dec
Boxing Day 26 Dec
A Baroque music ensemble playing in the cathedral, Varaždin
I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A  33
THE HISTORY OF
CROATIA
Situated between eastern and western Europe, Croatia has long been a land
of passage but also a point of contact between different worlds and cultures.
Diverse events and cultural influences have all contributed to the country’s
history. Croatia is particularly proud of its close ties to the West; for more
than a century, parts of the country struggled to free themselves from harsh
Turkish domination. The history of Croatia goes back almost as far as man’s
first appearance on earth.
Prehistory The Celts

Early in the 19th century ancient human In the 4th century BC, the Celts began
remains were found at Krapina in the north to search for new lands when Gaul
of Croatia. Dating from the Neanderthal became overpopulated. Some tribes
period, “Krapina man” places human followed the River Danube to present-
presence in Croatia in the middle- day Bohemia; some went as far as the
Palaeolithic. Other traces of prehistoric Greek border. In the same period the
cultures have been found in Croatia. The Greeks founded fortified colonies
richest site is probably Vučedol, near on some Dalmatian islands, including
Vukovar, where the Neolithic “Vučedol Vis and Hvar and in the area of Trogir
Dove” (see p192) was found. and Salona. Greek historians claim the
Celts fought against Alexander the
The Illyrians Great in 335 BC on the southern banks
Around 1200 BC, tribes of Indo-European of the Danube. A century later, they
origin settled on the Pannonian Plain, attacked Delphi and on their return
the larger islands and along the coast. stopped at the Paludes Volcae, an area
The tribes had different names between the rivers Sava, Drava and
(Istrians, Liburnians, Dalmatians, Japods) Danube. These people were called
depending on where they settled, but Scordisci and mixed with the Illyrians.
the area was known under one name, The Celts and Illyrians were defeated by
Illyria. They traded amber and had the Romans in the 2nd century BC. After
dealings with other Mediterranean people a number of rebellions, some people
and northern European traders. Traces were expelled, but those remaining
of ancient walls on some hilltops adopted their conquerors’ customs and
confirm their presence. became thoroughly Roman.
50,000–30,000 BC
Homo sapiens Krapina man, dating 1200 BC Illyrian 279 BC Celts, now
neanderthalensis from the middle- settlement in settled in the Balkans,
lives at Krapina Palaeolithic the Balkans defeat the Greeks
6500 BC 3500 BC 500 BC
390 BC Dionysius
6000–2500 BC 2200–1800 BC Bronze cap the Elder of Syracuse
Neolithic: sites Aeneolithic: sites 7th–6th captures the island
of Danilo, of Lasinje and centuries BC of Vis and founds an
Hvar, Butmir Vučedol administrative post
St Paul and St Blaise, patron saint of Dubrovnik, in a triptych by Nikola Božidarević

The Roman Conquest However, many Illyrians, still determined to

The Romans conquered Croatia at different fight, fled to inland forests not occupied by
times and in different ways. First, they want- the Romans. A few decades later, in 6 AD,
ed to put an end to attacks on their mer- the Illyrian people staged their greatest
chant ships, which were united rebellion yet, under the command
falling into the hands of of Batone. The first battles were won by the
the Liburnians or the Dal- Illyrians, who soon began to march towards
matians, so they subdued Italy. After three further years of war, the
the coastal towns by Romans managed to get the better of
landing Roman legions Batone’s exhausted, famished army, thanks
transported by the fleet. to better military organization.
Symbol of the Roman The first battle took place Over the years that followed, Caesar
Empire, Sisak
in 229 BC, when Teuta, the Augustus made the Balkans part of the
queen of the Illyrians, put to death a Roman Roman Empire. After a military campaign
ambassador who had tried to persuade her waged by Tiberius and completed in AD 12,
to put an end to the acts of piracy. Roman the Illyrian defences were dismantled and
revenge was fierce and the towns of Epidau- cities were founded, linked by roads wide
rum, Lissa and Pharos were attacked, con- enough for marching armies. The
quered and forced to pay taxes to Rome. inhabitants became Roman citizens and
However, despite promises to the contrary, were allowed to stand for public office.
acts of piracy continued and Rome decided Indeed, Illyria produced several emperors,
to deploy its legions based in Aquileia, east including Septimius Severus, Aurelian,
of Venice, a fortified town founded in 181 BC. Claudius II, Probus, Valens, Valentinian and,
The legions succeeded in subduing Istria, a perhaps most famous of all, Diocletian.
process completed by 177 BC. Twenty years
later Publius Scipio Nasica inflicted the first Roman Roads
defeat on the Dalmatians at Delminium and The roads were the first great public works
again on the Dalmatians and the Japods built by the Romans. They allowed them to
who inhabited the area of the delta of the move legions quickly and in fact the Roman
River Neretva. In 107 BC the Romans
defeated the Scordisci and the Illyrians and
conquered the town of Segestica (Sisak). In
87 BC another war broke out between the
Romans and the Illyrians which lasted for
three years and was won by the Romans. In
48 BC the Illyrians sided with Pompey in the
fight against Caesar, providing ships and
men. Pompey’s defeat also at first appeared
to be the decisive defeat of the Illyrians. The Tabula Peutingeriana showing Roman roads
229 BC The Roman

army destroys Illyrian forts, 107 BC Decisive Roman victory
subdues the Greek colonies of over the Scordisci who are driven
Lissa and Pharos and forces from the region; Rome owes the
Illyrians to pay taxes victory to Quintus Minucius Rufus
300 BC 200 BC 100 BC
One of 119 BC The Dalmatian Lucius

177 BC The Roman fleet is the many Metellus defeats the Scordisci and
attacked by Istrians; Rome sends Roman Dalmatian tribes near Segestica
an army which defeats them fragments (Sisak); Romans settle in Salona and
and drives them out from the begin work on the Via Gabina from
city of Sisak Salona to Andretium
T H E H I S TO R Y O F C R O AT I A  35
road network remained the principal

means of communication in this part of
the Balkans for many centuries.
Two important arteries led from Aquileia:
one towards the Istrian peninsula to Pula, the
other in the direction of Aemona (Ljubljana).
The main communication link in Dalmatia
began in Aenona (Nin), went on to Zadar
and continued, connecting Scardona
(Skradin), Tragurium (Trogir), Salona, Narona,
Epidaurum (Cavtat) and finally Catarum Pula in Roman times, in an engraving from 1819
(Kotor). Other roads branched off inland from
this coastal road: the busiest was that from on the main islands and along the coast were
Salona, which went towards present-day turned into Roman towns. The main towns
Bosnia, through Klis and Sinj, near the town were Senia (Senj), Aenona (Nin), Jadera
of Aequum (Čitluk). Another road followed (Zadar), Delminium (now a village east of
the river Narenta (Neretva) to Sirmium, the Salona with few remains), Promona (a village
present-day Sremska Mitrovica, which would near Makarska, with parts of the Roman
become one of the capitals of walls), Burnum (the remains of the
the Roman Empire. ancient town are near Kistanje
The inland roads were no along the road between Knin
less important: these followed and Benkovac), Blandona
the rivers Sava, Drava and the (which no longer exists, near
Danube. In the centre of the lake of Vrana), Scardona
Pannonia, one town which (today Skradin), Narona (at the
grew in importance was Relief in the Baths in mouth of the Neretva near Vid),
Siscia (Sisak), from which Varaždinske Toplice Tragurium (Trogir) and, lastly,
roads led towards Andautonia Salona (near Split). The towns
(Šćitarjevo), Mursa (Osijek), Cuccium (Ilok), had walls, forums, triumphal arches and
Marsonia (Vinkovci) and the thermal spas aqueducts, the remains of which can often
of Aquae Salissae (Daruvar), Aquae Valissae still be seen. The best-preserved aqueduct,
(Lipik) and Aquae Iasae (Varaždinske built to serve Salona, was extended by
Toplice), which were used by the emperors. Diocletian as far as Split and is, for the
most part, still in use.
Founding of Towns The principal Roman monuments
The Romans initially founded the Istrian remaining today in Croatia are in Pula,
towns of Poreč, Rovinj and Pula, which with its magnificent Roman amphitheatre
became a place of great importance in the (see pp64–5), and in Split, site of the extra-
2nd century. Later the existing Illyrian towns ordinary Palace of Diocletian (see pp122–3).
AD 6–9 Augustus conquers all of

Pannonia and begins construction of 271 Aurelian defines the border of
forts along the rivers; later the region A statue of the Empire as the Danube, unable
becomes part of the Roman Empire Emperor to defeat the Dacians who live
with the name Provincia Pannoniae Augustus along the river
AD 1 100 200
AD 12 Final defeat of the Illyrians. 284 Diocletian becomes emperor;

In Rome Tiberius celebrates his triumph some years later work begins
with a solemn procession, at the front on the palace in Split, to which
of which is Batone, chief of the rebels, he retires in 304
now a prisoner
The ancient Roman ruins of the city of Salona, destroyed in 614
The Barbarian Invasions and the Constantinople, but they were defeated
Crisis of the Roman Empire by the Byzantines. Some of the troops
In 378, after a century of relative peace, returned to the Asiatic steppes, while
the Goths invaded Pannonia and then others settled between the Danube and
turned towards Italy. From that time, and Tisza rivers, leaving the field clear for the
for the entire 5th century, the Balkans were Slavs who occupied Moravia and Bohemia
attacked by the Huns, Vandals, Visigoths to push southwards and towards the
and Longobards, which finally caused the Adriatic, conquering all the Roman cities
fall of the Roman empire in 476. and destroying Salona (614). The Slavs
settled in the countryside or in what
The Avars and Slavs in the Balkans remained of the sacked cities. These people
The beginning of the 6th century saw cultivated the land and bred livestock and
invasion by the Avars, who were followed formed extended family groups (županija)
by other Slavic tribes. Those Roman with a župan at the head of each.
inhabitants who did not manage to flee
to the mountains or the islands were The Bulgars and the
captured and sold as slaves. In 582 the Byzantine Reconquest
Avars conquered and destroyed Sirmium The Slavs’ expansion to the south was halted
(Sremska Mitrovica), one of the ancient by the Bulgars, a people of Turkish origin,
capitals of the Roman Empire. Later they who settled along the final stretch of the
also subdued other nomadic tribes and Danube. After the fall of the Western Empire,
organized a powerful army to conquer Byzantium attempted to reconquer the
380 With the Edict

of Thessalonica,
Theodosius the Great 476 The Ostrogoths of Odoacer
divides the Roman depose Romulus Augustulus, the
Empire in four parts last Roman emperor
300 400 500
Roman bust 378 Ostrogoths 437 Dalmatia comes 500 The Slavs occupy
recovered conquer and under the rule of Pannonia, which would
from ancient destroy Mursa Constantinople; the become Slavonia
Mursa (Osijek) Huns invade and
conquer Pannonia
Balkans and inflicted various defeats on the

Slavs, while at the same time trying to make
them part of the empire. The Byzantine fleet
was able to move the army rapidly and in
this way Greece, part of Macedonia and the
Dalmatian islands and cities were retaken.
Inland areas remained in Slav possession.
The Croats Foundations of one of the churches in Biskupija

At the beginning of the 7th century, perhaps
summoned by the Byzantine emperor Dalmatia. The area was divided into
Heraclius, the Croats, a Slavic people possibly counties which were entrusted to loyal
from what is now Iran, settled in upper nobles or bishops. The Aquileian patriarch
Pannonia and Dalmatia, mixing with the assumed particular importance for these
native Roman people or refugees from lands when, in the 9th century, he sent
the interior. In the 8th and 9th centuries, monks and priests from Byzantium to
the Croats set up territorial bases in the spread the gospel and convert the Croats
inland regions, while the coastal cities and to Christianity. Among the priests were
the islands were governed by Byzantine Cyril and Methodius, who devised the
officials with a fleet based in Zadar. In the Glagolitic script to spread the word in a
9th century, the Croats established a fledg- language intelligible to the Slavs.
ling state in a hilly area now called Biskupija
on the Dalmatian plateau, far from the The First Croatian Towns
Byzantine-controlled coast and away from During the 8th and early 9th centuries,
central Croatia, subject to the Franks. Several the first Croatian towns were built next
churches were built here and the small to the Byzantine-governed towns. Many
settlement was named Pet Crikvah. Recent (Dubrovnik, Zadar, Split and Trogir) were
archaeological digs have unearthed the inhabited by people of mainly Roman
foundations of religious origin. Biograd was
buildings. The finds are founded near Zadar, and
now in Split and Knin. the town of Knin was
repopulated by Croats
The Franks under Prince Višeslav. Later,
Towards the end of the 8th the city of Šibenik was
century the Franks, led by founded. In Pannonia, the
Charlemagne, succeeded in Roman town of Siscia (now
conquering what is now Sisak) and the town of Mursa
northern Croatia, Bohemia, The baptismal font of Prince Višeslav, (Osijek) were revived by
Istria, Slovenia and part of found near Nin Prince Vojnomir.
614 The Slavs and Avars

conquer and destroy Salona; the From 820 Croats found the cities
Roman population seeks refuge of Biograd, Šibenik and Knin;
in Split and the nearby islands Sinj and Osijek revive
600 700 800
Early 7th century The 799 Charlemagne defeats and subdues

Croats settle in upper Croats in Laurana (Lovran); beginning
Pannonia and Dalmatia of Croats’ conversion to Christianity.
Their cultural centre is in Aenona (Nin);
first writing in Croat appears Bust of Charlemagne
(742–814)
The Hungarians Krešimir also conquered the islands

The situation in the Balkans of Dalmatia. In 1054, with the
seemed stable enough towards schism of the Roman and
the end of the 9th century. Byzantine churches, Croatia
However, Hungarians from the sided with Rome. After the
Urals came to Europe and, under death of Petar Krešimir IV, his
the leadership of King Arpad, successor Zvonimir, who had
settled along the middle stretches married the sister of the
of the Danube and in the valleys Hungarian king Ladislaus,
of Transylvania, forcing out the Statue of the alleged first was crowned king by Pope
Slavs and other tribes. They carried Croat king, Tomislav Gregory VII and declared himself
out military raids in Italy and Austria subject to Rome. The Croat
but were defeated in 955 by Emperor nobles refused to participate in the war
Otto I at Lechfeld in Augsburg, Bavaria, against the Turks and killed Zvonimir in 1089.
and were forced to retreat to what are today
the borders of Hungary and Transylvania. The Union with Hungary
This Hungarian invasion was the last great Claiming the right of succession, Koloman
invasion of the first millennium. (1102–1116), the Hungarian king, came
to power after Ladislaus. He conquered
The Kingdom of the Croats Croatia and was crowned king of Dalmatia
In the meantime, in 845, under Prince and Croatia. In 1102 an agreement united
Trpimir, the Croats obtained a tacit the two states under one dynasty. A
autonomy from the Franks and formed a Croatian parliament (Sabor) was set up,
state which also controlled part of Dalmatia. to be ruled by a royally appointed Ban
This was recognized by the pope while (governor), and the state was divided
Duke Branimir into counties governed by Croatian and
(879–92) was its Hungarian nobles. In the following century,
leader. Prince to deal with the Tartar raids, King Bela IV
Tomislav was reorganized the state into two parts
allegedly crowned (Croatia and Slavonia), each ruled by a Ban.
king in 925 and New cities were founded and some were
his death, in 928, granted the privileges of a free city.
was followed by
years of anarchy The Royal Free Cities
until King Petar These cities, defended by walls, moats and
Krešimir IV towers, were built mainly in Pannonia and
(1058–74) came the northern counties. Varaždin, founded at
Relief of King Zvonimir in the to power and this time, became one of the area’s busiest
baptistry of St John in Split united Croatia. trading centres and, for a long period, the
901 Prince Tomislav defeats

the Hungarians and forces them
896 Hungarians settle beyond the Sava. He obtains 956 Branimir, prince of Croatia, rebels against
between the Tisza and from Byzantium the authority to the Byzantines. He obtains the title of king of
the Danube administer the cities of Dalmatia Croatia with the pope’s blessing
850 900 950 1000
899 Hungarians enter the 930 The Byzantines renew the union 1000 Venice’s first armed naval
Balkans and destroy the with the coastal towns and cities that expedition against pirates near
cities of the Croats, who pay taxes to the emperor mouth of Neretva river; towns on
seek refuge in Dalmatia islands and coast of Istria and
925 Tomislav allegedly becomes king Dalmatia declare allegiance to Venice
of the Croats with the pope’s blessing
manning forts, as was the case with the

Bribir counts, who moved to Zrin (taking
the name of Zrinski). This intense
programme strengthened a state which
was threatened on many sides: after the
danger of the Tartars had passed, threat
of a Turkish invasion loomed.
Venice, Istria and Dalmatia

The Golden Bull of 1242 declaring Zagreb (Gradec) a Free The Adriatic coast fared differently; its fate
Royal City was linked to that of Venice. Much of Istria
belonged to the Aquileian patriarchate,
seat of the Sabor. The cities which emerged which held civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction.
from the ruins of old Roman towns were From the year 1000, many coastal towns had
fortified: for example Križevci, proclaimed agreements of mutual assistance with Venice,
a royal city in 1252; Koprivnica, declared a which had a powerful fleet for defence
free town in 1356; and Ludbreg, which against attacks by pirates. Venice needed the
became a free town in 1320 and played an Istrian cities, which often had fortified ports,
important role in the region’s defences. for mooring its merchant fleets, which plied
The lower stretch of the Drava was the Croatian coast on their expeditions to the
strengthened, with a rebuilt Sisak and, East. In the 13th century, some cities asked
further south, a new Slavonski Brod. Zagreb to come under Venetian rule for defence
became a free royal city in 1242; Vukovar reasons, a process which in most cases took
became a free town in 1231. Thanks to tax place peacefully. In Zadar, however, this
advantages and non-subjection to feudal was not the case and two warring factions
lords, these towns prospered and attracted forced Venice
foreign merchants and artisans. to employ
crusaders on
The Defences their way to the
King Bela IV built forts in strategic Holy Land to
positions which were directly dependent subdue the
on royal power or granted to the great city (1202).
feudal lords. Impressive ruins remain of In 1204 Zadar
these forts, including the famous one surrendered,
of Ružica near Orahovica in Slavonia. and a year later
Samobor, in central Croatia, was enlarged Venice also
and given a fort, as were Klis, Knin and Sinj conquered Istria
in Dalmatia. Several noble families were and the city The taking of Zadar by the Venetians
also given the task of building and of Dubrovnik. depicted by Andrea Vicentino
1058 King Krešimir

enlarges his kingdom 1102 The Hungarian Royal coin 1202 To repay the debt to Venice
by uniting Croatia and king Koloman, successor of Slavonia the crusaders undertake to
conquering the to Ladislaus, is crowned king from 1200 conquer Zadar which falls after
Dalmatian islands of Croatia and Dalmatia long resistance
1050 1100 1150 1200
1091 Ladislaus, king of Hungary, brother 1222 With the Golden Bull the king of
of Zvonimir’s widow, unites Croatia and Hungary, Andrew II, guarantees the
the Hungarian kingdom rights of the Croatian nobility,
surrendering some of his power
1075 Zvonimir is crowned king to the aristocracy
of Croatia by Pope Gregory VII
Anjou, of the Neapolitan royal family, came

to the throne. Under the Angevin dynasty,
with Matthias Corvinus (1458–90), the
Hungarian-Croatian kingdom enjoyed long
periods of prosperity, competing with Venice
for possession of the coast and Adriatic
islands. However, a Turkish invasion was
imminent and after the battle of Kosovo
The Republic of Ragusa in a contemporary illustration Polje in 1389, the Turks conquered nearby
Bosnia and part of Serbia. In 1463, the Sultan
The Republic of Ragusa Mohammed II began to invade Croatia from
The story of the city of Dubrovnik, for a Bosnia. The Croatian army was defeated in
long time known as Ragusa, takes up an 1493 at the battle of Krbavsko Polje. In the
entire chapter in Croatia’s history. The city Battle of Mohács, on 29 August 1526, the
was founded by exiles from Epidaurum, Hungarian king, Louis II, died without heirs,
which had been destroyed by the Avars. It leaving the way clear for the Turks of
became an important trading port, thanks Suleyman II the Magnificent to conquer
to its central position in the Adriatic and almost all of Croatia and much of Hungary.
its safe mooring. In 1205, it came under
Venetian rule. This lasted for 150 years and
resulted in the city’s current appearance. In
1358, Hungary’s Louis I of Anjou defeated
the Venetians and reunited the Croatian
territories, but in 1382 Ragusa bought its
freedom by means of a treaty with the king
of Hungary. It became an independent
republic and flourished as a great power
and a thriving spiritual and cultural centre.
In 1808, Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops
entered the city and the republic came
to an end.
Turkish Domination
The Kingdom of Hungary went through
a long period of dynastic crisis when the
house of Arpad died out after the death of
Andrew III in 1301. There were numerous
contenders for the crown, provoking fierce
battles until 1308 when Charles Robert of Ottoman army in the Battle of Mohács
1301–08 The Arpad dynasty 1527 The kingdom of Hungary and

dies out with the death of Croatia passes to the Habsburgs
Andrew III. After lengthy Silver coin
controversy, Charles Robert commemorating the 1526 King Louis II dies in the Battle of
of Anjou comes to the throne Battle of Mohács Mohács against the Turks
1300 1350 1400 1450 1500
1409 After a costly war against Sigismund 1493 Croatian troops are
of Habsburg, Ladislaus of Anjou becomes defeated at Krbavsko Polje by
king of Hungary and Croatia. He sells Jacub, a Pasha of Bosnia
Dalmatia to Venice
1520 Marko Marulić writes Judita, the
first work written in Croat
Venice and the Purchase of Dalmatia

The wars with Venice over coastal Dalmatia
continued until 1409 when Ladislaus of
Anjou, the King of Naples, renounced all
rights over Dalmatia and sold it for 100,000
gold ducats to Venice. The towns and
islands stayed under Venetian rule from
1409 until 1797, when Venice surrendered
to Napoleon. As well as the territories
purchased by Venice, other towns wanted
to become Venetian possessions. They
were given a great deal of autonomy by
Venice, whose principal interest was in the
security of the ports and their defence, Osijek at the time of liberation from the Turks in 1687
building the ramparts which today
characterize these towns. During the Serb, Morlach and Bosnian refugees
wars of the early 18th century, Venice were brought in and integrated with the
conquered the whole of Dalmatia, except military garrisons. For some decades there
for Dubrovnik, then an independent was a truce, then the Turkish offensive
republic, and a small stretch of coast, against Vienna resumed, but the Turks
extending its borders to the Velebit passes, were pushed back, first in 1664 and
which still separate Croatia from Bosnia- again in 1683. The slow retreat of the
Herzegovina today. “infidels” from Croatia began at
this point. Croatia was liberated
Ties with the Habsburgs ten years later, while Bosnia
In 1527, Croatian and remained under the Turks. The
Hungarian nobles granted liberated areas became border
what remained of the lands and remained so until
kingdom to Archduke 1881. Vienna’s heavy taxation
Ferdinand of Habsburg, who and centralized rule caused
then concentrated all power discontent, but in 1670 a plan to
in the court, depriving the Fran Krsto Frankopan, detach Croatia from Hungary and
nobility of control of the cities beheaded in 1671 Vienna, devised by some of
and border areas. In 1578, he Croatia’s most influential families
established the Military Frontier (Vojna (including the Frankopans and Zrinskis)
Krajina) which was administered by (see p181), resulted in the beheading of
the military governor of Vienna. This Ban Petar Zrinski and Fran Krsto Frankopan
was to serve as a buffer zone against the and the other two rebel leaders in 1671,
advancing Turks. To populate this frontier, halting any attempt at revolt.
1566 Suleyman II besieges Siget, which, led by 1670 Attempted revolt

Nikola Zrinski, resists for five weeks by the Croatian princes 1718 Treaty of
Petar Zrinski and Krsto Passarowitz (Požarevac):
1573 Peasant revolt in Zagorje, against nobles Frankopan against Turkey loses Serbia and
and emperor, put down with much bloodshed Leopold of Austria part of inland Dalmatia
1550 1600 1650 1700 1750
1688 Pope Innocent XI promotes Holy League

Nikola against Turks; the battle of Petervaradino brings
Zrinski, 1592 The Turks capture Bihać and extend Turkish defeat and liberation of all of Croatia
Ban of the borders to the river Kupa, which still
Croatia separates Bosnia from Croatia 1683 Siege of Vienna by the Turks; Austria wins and
reconquers Buda and Pannonia
“the Illyrian”. Moving against this trend,

however, was the expansion of Hungary,
which tried to extend its influence in frontier
zones by imposing the use of the Magyar
language in administrative affairs and
schools. In the former Venetian territories,
on the other hand, pro-Italian nationalism,
with ideas of unification, was spreading
among the middle classes in the Dalmatian
Drawing showing the Congress of Vienna and Istrian cities. The Austrian government
opposed all these movements and
The Kingdom of the Illyrian continued to govern without compromise.
Provinces Indeed, they tried to introduce the teaching
The Napoleonic wars also affected Croatia, of German in schools. Any possible
where the Kingdom of Illyrian Provinces unification of Croatian territories was blocked
was established in 1809, governed by the by maintaining the Krajina, the military
French marshal, Marmont. This relatively border, and by customs barriers between
short period (five years) saw the intro- the various areas. Major public works, the
duction of important economic and legal expansion of the ports of Rijeka and Pula,
reforms that left a deep impression on which became a base for the Austrian fleet,
Croatian culture. With the mood of growing and a renewed road network were all made
nationalism in Europe, people felt inspired to promote Austrian interests.
to rebuild a united state. However, at the
Congress of Vienna (1815), Croatia From the Revolt of 1848 to
supported the expansionist aspirations Austro-Hungarian Reign
of Austria, which annexed all the Istrian After 1847, when the Sabor
and Dalmatian territories which had (parliament) of Zagreb managed
belonged to Venice, and the to proclaim Croatian as the
Republic of Dubrovnik. official language and
abolished feudalism, the
The Illyrian Movement revolt of the Hungarian
Croatian aspirations were people and the hopes
apparent in movements which aroused by the Italian
also influenced and politicized the revolution in 1848 also
newly emerging working class, a involved Croatian political
product of early industrialization. The movements. The failure to
origins of this nationalist trend can understand the Hungarian rebels
be dated to the 1834 writings of Ban Josip Jelačić, a Croatian and ambiguous Austrian
Ljudevit Gaj (1809–72), known as national hero policy forced the Ban, Josip
1830 Ljudevit Gaj publishes

1809 Napoleon Essential Rules of Croatian-Slavic
Bonaparte founds Spelling, introducing to the Ljudevit Gaj, head
kingdom of Napoleon script the signs missing from of the Croatian
Illyrian Provinces Bonaparte the Latin alphabet national revival
1800 1810 1820 1830 1840 1850
1832 Janko Drašković 1847 The Illyrian 1848–50 Hungarian uprising

1815 Treaty of publishes Dissertation Movement gains majority against Austria: Vienna
Vienna: Austria is against Hungarian and in Croatian Parliament and abolishes local autonomy,
allotted all the Austrian supremacy, proclaims Croat the dissolves Sabor and makes
territories of the introduces idea of Illyria as official language German the official language
Republic of Venice the “mother” of Croats
Jelačić, into war against Hungary, now rule, sparking

ruled by rebels. The Austrian monarchy was reaction from
saved but then became, if anything, even the Kingdom
more keen on centralization. In 1867, Franz of Serbia, which
Joseph, the Austrian emperor, modified the had been
structure of the state and established the established in
Austro-Hungarian empire. Hungary was 1882 after the
granted autonomy and a corridor to the expulsion of
sea. Rijeka and the hinterland became the Turks. The
part of the Magyar state. However, under Serbian ruling
pressure from the Sabor, in 1868 the classes aspired
Austrian emperor granted Croatia the to unify the
status of “a nation with territory within southern Slavs Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, founder
the Austro-Hungarian Empire”, and Zagreb and intended of the University of Zagreb
became its cultural and political centre. to extend their
In 1863 the bishop of Đakovo, Josip Juraj territories towards Dalmatia and Slavonia,
Strossmayer, founded the Croatian Academy which they regarded as Serbian land.
of the Arts and Sciences and the University In the last decade of the 19th century a
(1874), the first in the Balkans. political battle developed in Dalmatia
Political contention continued to develop and Istria. It formed between a
along different lines. Some people dreamed movement supported by the bourgeoisie
of a confederation of states within the in the cities formerly under Venetian
Habsburg monarchy, others felt that the rule, which pushed for autonomy, and
moment had come to unite the Slav other groups which aimed at a union
peoples in one state, and lastly, others felt with Serbia. Austria, which as always
it was time for Croatian independence. took advantage of these internal
Tension increased in 1878 when Bosnia controversies, did not concede any
and Herzegovina came under Austrian form of autonomy.
World War I
In 1914, with the assassination of
Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo,
World War I broke out, which caused
the dissolution of the Habsburg
Empire. Croatians paid dearly for their
involvement in the war, as did many
other countries, but finally the Croatian
population was able to free itself
Flag of the Hungarian-Croatian Imperial regiment from foreign rule.
1881 Vienna dissolves

the Vojna Krajina
1860 Austrian and those areas are 1904 Antun and Stjepan 1914 Assassination
emperor reinstates part of the Croatian Radić found the People’s in Sarajevo; World
the Sabor state again Peasant Party War I begins
1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910
1908 Austria annexes Bosnia 1912 Slavko Cuvaj

1868 Birth of United and Herzegovina proclaimed Ban of
Kingdom of Croatia and Croatia, dissolves the
Slovenia supported by Sabor and abolishes
Emperor Franz Joseph Emperor Franz Joseph the Constitution
in an attempt to suppress the uprising

and placate the discontented, in 1939 the
government of Belgrade established the
Banovina of Croatia within the Kingdom
of Yugoslavia. However, a few days later
World War II began.
World War II
Initially, Yugoslavia supported the Axis,
but a military revolt removed the king
of Yugoslavia, and the country was then
invaded by Nazi troops. A kingdom of
Croatia was established, which was to
be governed by Aimone of Savoy, but in
reality it was an independent state led by
Assassination of King Alexander in Marseilles (1934) Pavelić. Italy took control of the islands and
cities of the Dalmatian coast. Resistance
From the State of Slovenes, gained ground in all of Yugoslavia led by
Croats and Serbs to the Kingdom the Communist Party and its chief, Marshal
of Yugoslavia Tito: from 1941 to 1945 Croatia was
Croatia proclaimed independence in 1918, bloodied by war and internal conflicts that
but a few months later agreed to be part of caused hundreds of thousands of deaths.
a state formed by Slovenes and Serbs under
the Serbian dynasty of Karađorđević. The Marshal Tito
Treaty of Rapallo (1920) allotted Istria, Zadar, At the end of the war the state of Yugoslavia
the islands of Cres, Lošinj, Lastovo and was reunited, and regained land granted
Palagruža to Italy, followed in 1924 by Rijeka. to Italy after World War I (see p51), as well
The discontent of Croatians led many to join as the area of
the People’s Peasant Party, led by Stjepan Prekomurje and
Radić until he was shot and fatally wounded a part of
in parliament in Belgrade in 1928. The revolts Baranja, which
which broke out in Croatia were repressed were both
and in 1929 King Alexander abolished the Hungarian at
constitution and then established the the time.
Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The assassination of In 1948, the
the king in Marseilles (1934) by a member break between
of a Macedonian revolutionary group the Yugoslav
working with the Ustaše (Croatian fascists), Communist Tito with his wife and son in a photo
led by Ante Pavelić, increased tension, and Party and the from 1927
1948 Yugoslavia breaks

1919 Treaty of Paris: a country of away from Soviet influence
Slovenes, Croats and Serbs is 1934 King Alexander is and begins policy of
created, which later becomes the killed in Marseilles; his non-alignment
kingdom of Yugoslavia cousin Paul takes power
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1929 King Alexander 1939–41 World War II:

Karađorđević proclaims a Yugoslavia is conquered 1947–48 Exodus of nearly all the
dictatorship. Croat Ante Pavelić and divided, and Croatia Italians from Istria and Dalmatia
founds terrorist organization of nominally becomes
Ustaše to fight the Serbs a kingdom under 1945 The Yugoslav Federal
Aimone of Savoy state is founded
Soviet Union led Marshal Tito to employ a

policy of mediation and neutrality between
the opposing international factions of the
Cold War. Tito held together the country’s
various ethnic groups (with great difficulty)
and these ties showed signs of strain
after he died in 1980. The reform of the
constitution, aimed at weakening Serbia’s
dominance over the other states, did not
alter the resentment of the Croats and Bombed houses in Vukovar during the war of 1991–95
Slovenes who sought support for opposition
to the regime in religion and nationalism. The Independent State of
Croatia
The Dissolution of the Socialist Five years later the land occupied by
Republic of Yugoslavia the Serbs was liberated by the Croatian
The fall of the Berlin Wall (November 1989) army and the Erdut Agreement (1995)
and the break-up of the Soviet Union at the sanctioned reunification, although the
end of 1991 convinced the governments of disputed territories (Slavonia and Krajina)
Slovenia, Croatia (under its first president, were overseen by the UN until 1998.
Franjo Tuđman) and Macedonia that they Croatia joined the World Trade
should dissolve federal ties and proclaim Organization and elections held in
independence, after a referendum which December 2000 voted in a coalition
was won by a wide margin by the of democratic parties. As a result steps
secessionists (May 1991). However, a were taken for Croatia’s entry into the
Serb faction, supported by the Yugoslav European Union. In March 2002, the
People’s Army (JNA) from Belgrade, Italian bank, UniCredito, bought the
stirred up rebellion and war broke out. important Croatian bank, the Zagrebačka
In Slovenia the war lasted only ten days, Bank, bringing it into the European circuit.
but the battle in Croatia was prolonged. However, in 2005, after failing to hand
Under the pretext of defending over an indicted general, Croatia
the Serbs, parts of Slavonia and was accused of not co-operating
Baranja were occupied by the fully with the international war
JNA, and in Krajina the Serbian crimes tribunal at the Hague
Republic of Krajina was created and negotiations for entry to
with Knin as its capital. A fifth the EU stalled. Soon after, the
of Croatia fell to Serb soldiers, general was captured and talks
and the city of Dubrovnik resumed, and eventually, Croatia
was held under a seven- Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović, elected joined the European Union on
month siege. president in 2015 1 July 2013.
2000 On 7 2009 The accession

1980 President Tito 1998 The restitution February Stipe of Croatia to NATO
dies and conflict of Slavonia and Mesić is elected
between the various Krajina reunites a President of the 2013 Croatia joins
nationalities begins now free Croatia Republic EU on 1 July
1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1991 Slovenia and Croatia abandon 1995 Erdut Agreement: 2015 Kolinda Grabar-
Republic, Croatian land inhabited by Serbs Slavonia and Krajina are Kitarović is elected Croatia’s
is occupied by Yugoslav People’s Army: administered by the first woman president
war between Serbia and Croatia begins United Nations
2010 Ivo Josipović elected President
CROATIA
AREA BY AREA
Croatia at a Glance 48–49

Istria and the Kvarner Area 50–89
Dalmatia 90–153
Zagreb 154–171
Central Croatia 172–183
Slavonia and Baranja 184–201
The Northern Counties 202–219
48  C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Croatia at a Glance
Croatia is a fascinating country with great ethnic, historical
and architectural diversity as well as varied topography.
The north had close ties with the former Austrian empire,
and the bell towers alongside 19th-century Baroque
churches and buildings have a Viennese look. The eastern
side marks the start of the Hungarian plain with broad
rivers and houses with overhanging roofs. The Adriatic
coast is quite different, with its indented coastline fringed
with lovely islands. The coastal cities reflect the centuries- St Mark’s Square
old Venetian culture with churches, monasteries, palaces (pp160–61), with its Gothic
church of the same name, is
and forts testifying to the brilliance of the late Middle Ages the heart of the Gornji Grad
and the greatness of the Renaissance period. district in Zagreb and the
city’s oldest square.
Zagreb
ZAGREB
(see pp154–71)
Karlovac
Rijeka
Poreč
Ogulin
ISTRIA AND THE
Barban
KVARNER AREA
(see pp50–89)
Senj
Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč Pula
(pp56–7) has marvellous
mosaics, some of the best-
preserved examples of Jablanac
Byzantine art in Croatia. Amphitheatre, Pula
Lički Osik
(pp64–5)
Otrič
Posedarje
Plitvice Lakes National
Zadar
Park (pp88–9) is one of
nature’s natural wonders DALMATIA
with 16 lakes surrounded (see pp90–153)
by woods. The cascading
waterfalls create an Šibenik
impressive display
of light and colour.
Kornati National Park

(pp100–1) is made up of
over 150 islands with
underwater caves and
sheltered coves. The park
covers an area of about
300 sq km (115 sq miles)
and is surrounded by
clear seas. These wooded,
rocky islands present an
unforgettable sight.
Pavement cafés in Varaždin, once a seat of the Croatian Parliament

C R O AT I A AT A G L A N C E  49
Zagorje, west of
Varaždin, towards the
border with Slovenia, is
a fascinating area with
vine-covered hills,
thermal spa towns
and castles.
Varaždin
0 kilometres 50
THE NORTHERN 0 miles 50 Kopački Rit Park

COUNTIES (pp198–9) is an oasis of great
(see pp202–19) ornithological interest. In
spring and summer the
Virovitica
Danube overflows,
transforming this area into a
large lake attracting more
CENTRAL than 200 bird species.
CROATIA
(see pp172–83) SLAVONIA AND Osijek
Sisak
BARANJA
(see pp184–201)
Đakovo
Slavonski Brod
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
(p180)
The Tvrđa in Osijek (pp196–7), the fortified

The Palace of Diocletian in Split (pp122–3) nucleus of the city, has 18th-century military
was built by Emperor Diocletian at the buildings. Initially Roman, then Hungarian,
end of the 3rd century. The city of Split Turkish and lastly Austrian, the city retains
grew up in and around it. Almost in its traces of most of these diverse cultures.
original state, it is the largest Roman
building in the Adriatic.
Sinj The city of Dubrovnik

(pp146–52) is situated on
the coast. It is surrounded by
fortifications begun in the
Split 8th century and enlarged
over the years.
Makarska
Ploče
Dubrovnik
C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A  51
ISTRIA AND THE

KVARNER AREA
The Istrian peninsula, nestling at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea, and the
islands that tumble down the Kvarner gulf are some of the most sought-after
holiday destinations in Europe. The coast is spectacular and the towns and
cities are fascinating. Three National Parks – the Brijuni Islands, the Plitvice
Lakes and Risnjak – preserve the natural charm of the area.
Until 1000 BC, the region was inhabited by With the Treaty of Vienna in 1815,
Illyrians. From 42 BC Istria became part of Austria-Hungary extended its domain
the Roman empire, when the Province of to include Venetian lands. Rijeka
Dalmatia was founded. Cities were built developed into an industrial port under
along the coast and on the islands, and Austro-Hungarian rule and is still today
many traces of Roman presence remain. a hub for Croatian shipping. Close by
Pula has a well-preserved amphitheatre in Opatija the Habsburgs built elegant
dating back to the 1st century, the sixth- villas and planted lush gardens for
largest arena of its kind in the world. their winter holidays.
With the fall of the western Roman In 1918 Istria briefly became part
Empire, much of the eastern Adriatic coast of the new kingdom of Serbs, Croats
came under the control of Byzantium. The and Slovenes, which subsequently
intricate, well-preserved golden mosaics became Yugoslavia in the same year.
of the 6th-century basilica of St Euphrasius Many Istrian towns have two official
in Poreč survive from that time. names, an Italian and a Croatian one,
In 1420 the area came under Venetian rule, a legacy from 1920, when Istria was
a situation which was to last until 1797, when given to Italy as a reward for having
Napoleon dissolved the Venetian Republic. joined the Allies in World War I. During
Nearly 400 years of Venetian rule are recorded World War II, the region became a
by 15th-century open-air loggias, elegant bell stronghold for Italian partisans. After
towers and buildings with Venetian-Gothic 1943, most of Istria was given back
windows, built by wealthy merchants. to Yugoslavia.
The Roman amphitheatre at Pula, one of the best preserved Roman theatres in the world
Lake and falls, Plitvice Lakes National Park
Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area

Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into
three areas. White Istria is the mountainous northern
part characterized by karst or limestone; grey Istria
is the central plateau partially rich in vegetation and
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša; and red Istria is
the coastal area that derives its name from a fertile red
soil called crvenica. The most popular destinations in Istria
are Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The
Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline
as far as Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland,
with the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice
Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the
Cres, Lošinj and Rab are delightful places to explore. Many island of Rab
of the towns on the coast have an Italianate appearance.
Trieste Tršće
Trieste Re Ljubljana
ka
Rupa PRIMORSKO -
UMAG
(UMAGO)
GORANSKA
Crni Lug
RISNJAK
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK
TOUR OF Delnice
Grožnjan KASTAV
F O RT I F I E D T T H E Matulji
Mirna OWN
Motovun S
OPATIJA
NOVIGRAD RIJEKA
(CITTANOVA)
I STA R S K A Boljun
LOVRAN BAKAR
POREČ KRALJEVICA
(PARENZO) PAZIN
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN CRIKVENICA
Omišalj
VRSAR Brestova
(ORSERA) Dvigrad Šilo
PLOMIN Porozina
SVETVINČENAT
ROVINJ LABIN NOVI
(ROVIGNO) KRK VINODOLSKI
Rabac
BALE BARBAN
(VALLE) Valbiska Krk
Krk
Venice
Merag
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Baška
BRIJUNI Plavnik
r
FAŽANA(FASANA)
NATIONAL
ne
PARK
ar
Lubenice
Kva
Kv
PULA(POLA) Lopar
CRES Rab
RAB
rn
Kampor
Rab
er
Cres
Dolin
ić
Osor
Getting Around Unije
The roads are good; there is a motorway
linking Rijeka to Zagreb, as well as from Nerezine
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger Pag
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO)
ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Lošinj
summer season – these take cars also. Buses Mali Lošinj Veli Lošinj
Susak
link all the main towns and there’s a bus that runs Zadar
from Pula to Trieste, while trains link Rijeka and
Zagreb, with connections to the south of Croatia. Ilovik
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA  53
Sights at a Glance HUNGARY

SLOVENIA
1 Buje (Buie) p Lovran • ZAGREB
2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija
3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav
BOSNIA-
4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 HERZEGOVINA
5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino) ADRIATIC
SEA
7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7
8 Vodnjan (Dignano) k Krk
Locator Map
9 Fažana (Fasana) l Bakar
0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
q Pula (Pola) pp62–5 x Crikvenica
w Barban c Novi Vinodolski
e Svetvinčenat v Senj Key
r Pazin b Rab pp84–5
t Gračišće
Motorway
n Plitvice Lakes National Park
y Pićan pp88–9 Major road
u Labin Minor road
i Plomin Tour Motorway under construction
o Mošćenice a Tour of the Fortified Towns Main railway
County border
Kupa
Ve
Karlovac
Ferry route
lik
Summit
a
Vrbovsko
Ravna
Ka
Gora
pe
la
Bjelolasica
1534m
Karlovac
M
a The rocky coastline near Rovinj
la
Brinje K Karlovac
SENJ a 0 kilometres 30
p
Ga el
na
ck 0 miles 30
Kora
a
a
Plitvice
PLITVICE LAKES
Otočac
Lukovo NATIONAL PARK
Mali Rajinac Bihać

1699m
P
Korenica
lj
Jablanac
Ve
e
še
LIČKO - SENJSKA
v
l e
ic
a
b
Lički Osik
i
Ozeblin
1657m
t
Lik Udbina
Gospić a Donji
Karlobag Lapac
Zadar Gračac

of biblical scenes are by work and exhibit their art in

Gasparo della Vecchia (early the various local galleries
18th century). and workshops.
The Civic Museum houses
some interesting handicrafts
and pieces made by local 2 Umag (Umago)
craftsmen.
Map A2. * 13,000. k Pula, 83 km
(51 miles). @ Joakima Rakovca bb,
E Civic Museum
(060) 317 060. n Trgovačka 6, (052)
Trg Josipa Broza Tita 6. Tel (052) 773
741 363. _ Feast of St Pilgrim
075. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–1pm,
(weekend nearest 23 May);
5–9pm Mon–Sat; Sep–Jun: by appt.
International tennis tournament
(end Jul); concerts in summer.
Environs ∑ coloursofistria.com
Perched on a hilltop, 8 km
(5 miles) southeast of Buje, This town is located on a
Façade of the Church of St Servelus, Buje is the medieval town of narrow peninsula which frames
Grožnjan (Grisignana). a small bay. It was founded by
1 Buje (Buie) The town was first the Romans and given the
documented in 1102 when it name of Umacus. In 1268, it
Map A2. * 6,000. k Pula, 70 km (43
miles) S. @ from Pula, Rijeka, Kopar, became the property of the became an important port
Trieste, Padova, Zagreb, Rovinj, Poreč. patriarch of Aquileia. In 1358 when it passed into Venetian
n 1 svibnja 2, (052) 773 353. the Venetians bought the town hands. Later, in the 14th
_ Grape festival (3rd weekend Sep). from Baron Reiffenberg century, a wall and towers
∑ coloursofistria.com and since that time it were built, some of
has been the which still remain.
On an isolated hill, among administrative and The town still
flourishing vineyards, stands military centre of has many 15th-
Buje, the ancient Roman the surrounding and 16th-century
settlement of Bullea. Formerly a area. A tower, some stone houses,
Frankish feudal village, in 1102 it parts of the walls some with ornate
became part of the Patriarchate and two doors are Gothic windows.
of Aquileia and in 1412 the all that remain of On the left
town came under Venetian rule. the Old Town. outer wall of
The town still retains the Within the walls the 18th-century
outline of the ancient walled are a 16th-century Church of St Mary
castle and has kept its original loggia, in the main 15th-century polyptych, church (Sv. Marija) is a
medieval layout, with narrow square, and the of St Mary, Umag relief of St Pilgrim
alleys and lanes leading to the Baroque Church of and the fortified
main square. The Cathedral of St Vitus and St Modest. The town of Umag, and inside the
St Servelus (Sv. Servol) and its church has splendid altars and church is a 15th-century
Aquileian bell tower stand here. an impressive marble choir. Venetian-school polyptych.
The church was built in the After World War II, the Today Umag is a busy seaside
16th century over the remains majority of the inhabitants, resort with numerous hotels.
of a Roman temple, of which a nearly all of them Italian, It has become known for its
few columns and pieces survive. abandoned the town. In 1965, well-equipped sports centres,
Inside the church are wooden however, it was declared a “City and major tennis tournaments
statues from the 14th and 15th of Artists”. Contemporary artists are held here.
centuries (Madonna with Child
and St Barbara), sculptures
representing St Servelus and
St Sebastian (1737) by Giovanni
Marchiori, and an organ by
Gaetano Callido (1725–1813).
A 15th-century Venetian
Gothic palace and a 16th-
century loggia with a frescoed
façade also face the square.
Outside the walls is the
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija),
erected in the 15th century: a
wooden statue of the Virgin
and a Pietà are from the same
period. Some of the paintings The ancient wall and port of Umag
(Decumanus) and another

main road at right angles
(Cardo). The main monuments
of the town line these roads.
Along the Decumanus
stand many Gothic houses.
At the easternmost point is
the Baroque Sinčić Palace
(18th century), which houses
the Poreč Museum (Zavičajni
Muzej Poreštine). It is dedicated
to Roman and early Christian
archaeology; an ethnographic
Boats in the harbour at Poreč section illustrates daily life
in the Poreč region. Nearby
3 Novigrad 4 Poreč (Parenzo) in St Maurus Street (Sv. Mauro)
(Cittanova) Map A2. * 11,000. k Pula, 53 km
is the House of Two Saints,
(33 miles). £ Pazin, 32 km (20 miles).
all that is left of the abbey
Map A2. * 4,000. k Pula, 60 km
(37 miles). £ Pazin, 41 km (25 miles). @ Ulica K Hoguesa 2, (060) 333 111. of St Cassius (12th century),
n Mandrač 29a, (052) 757 075. n Local: Zagrebačka 9, (052) 451 with two Romanesque
_ GnamGnam Fest: Novigrad Scallop 458; Regional: Pionirska 1, (052) 452 figures on the façade. To
Evening (first Fri in Jun), Patron saint’s 797. _ Season of classical music (at the west, the Decumanus
day, St Pelagius (weekend nearest St Euphrasius) and jazz festival (both leads to Trg Marafor, once
28 Aug). ∑ coloursofistria.com Jul & Aug). ∑ to-porec.com the site of the forum,
with houses from the
Originally a Greek colony and Poreč was a Roman town 12th and 13th centuries
later a Roman one called (Colonia Julia Parentium) which, and the remains of a
Aemonia, Novigrad stands after centuries of splendour, pre-Roman temple.
at the mouth of the River was sacked by the Goths and North of the square is
Mirna. In the Byzantine period fell into decline. In 539 it was the church of St Francis
(6th century) when it was conquered by the Byzantines, (Sv. Frane, 12th–14th
enlarged, it was called “New who founded a bishopric centuries), altered
Town” (Neopolis). From the around the year 800. in the Baroque
early Middle Ages until 1831 The town then period. To the east
it was an episcopal seat. In became part of the is the parish house
1277 it passed into Venetian kingdom of the with an ornate
hands and oak from the Franks, who gave it Romanesque façade.
Motovun forests was shipped to the Patriarchate From here there is
to Venetian dockyards. of Aquileia. In 1267 a passage that leads
In the 13th century the town it was the first Istrian to the 6th-century
was walled for defence, but it town to choose Euphrasian Basilica,
was unable to withstand a Venetian rule, and which has marvellous
Turkish attack in 1687 and the the town acquired a Archaeological exhibit Byzantine mosaics
town was partially destroyed Venetian look as in the Poreč Museum (see pp56–7).
along with many works of art. palaces, squares and
Evidence of the Venetian religious buildings were built. E Poreč Museum
period can be seen on the In 1354 it was destroyed by Sinčić Palace, Dekumanska 9. Tel (052)
façades of the houses in the Genoese and later, plague, 431 585. Closed for restoration.
the narrow lanes which lead pirates and a long war greatly
to the main square (Veliki Trg). reduced the population. During
An 18th-century loggia stands Austrian domination it became
here. Of the early Christian the seat of the Istrian parliament
basilica of St Pelagius and an important shipyard.
(Sv. Pelagij), rebuilt in the 16th The old centre shelters on
century, only the Romanesque a narrow peninsula protected
crypt from the 11th century by rocks and the island of
remains. In the present-day St Nicholas. Despite being a
Baroque church are paintings popular base for visitors to
from the Venetian school of Istria, the Old Town has
the 18th century. Evidence remained intact and Poreč
of the Roman and medieval invariably wins an annual award
periods can be seen in for “best-kept town”. The layout
the museum housed in the is based on the original Roman A typical trefoil window in Venetian Gothic
Urizzi Palace. network, with a main road style, Poreč
Poreč: Euphrasian Basilica

Eufrazijeva bazilika
This 6th-century church, a Byzantine masterpiece, is

decorated with splendid mosaics on a gold background.
The Euphrasian Basilica was built for Bishop Euphrasius
between 539 and 553, by enlarging the existing 4th-century
Oratory of St Maurus Martyr. Some of the original floor
mosaics still survive. Over the centuries the building has
undergone numerous alterations. In December 1997 the
basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Classical concerts are held in the church in July and August.
. Ciborium
Dominating the presbytery is a
beautiful 13th-century ciborium,
supported by four marble
columns. The canopy is
decorated with mosaics.
. Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
the basilica, and Deacon
Claud with his son.
KEY
1 Remains of a 4th-century mosaic

floor from the Oratory of St Maurus
Sacristy and the are in the garden.
Votive Chapel 2 The Bishop’s Residence, a
Past the sacristy’s left wall triple-aisled building dating from
is a triple-apsed chapel the 6th century, now houses several
with a mosaic floor from paintings by Antonio da Bassano, a
the 6th century. Here lie polyptych by Antonio Vivarini and
the remains of the saints a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Maurus and Eleuterius.
Interior
The entrance leads to a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
large basilica with a central
nave and two side aisles.
Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
The 18 Greek marble
Tel (052) 429 030. Open call
columns have carved
ahead for opening times. &
capitals featuring animals,
some of Byzantine origin
and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
of Euphrasius.
Baptistry
This octagonal building dates
from the 6th century. In the
centre is a baptismal font and
there are also fragments of
mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
Atrium
This has a roughly
square portico with two
columns on each side.
Tombstones and a variety
of archaeological finds
dating from the medieval
period are displayed
in this area.
now a marine reserve. The In the square in front of the pier

channel is 9 km (5 miles) long is Balbi’s Arch (1680), an ancient
and 600 m (1,970 ft) wide, with city gate, as well as a late-
steep sides perforated by Renaissance clock tower. The
limestone caves which have Califfi Palace, dating from 1680,
been lived in from time to time is now the Heritage Museum,
since the Neolithic Age. In the housing 18th-century art from
early 11th century, one of the the Venetian school and works
caves was the home of the hermit by modern Croatian artists.
St Romualdo, who founded In the roads branching off
the monastery of St Michael the square are Baroque and
near Kloštar. Renaissance buildings. The
Church of St Anthony in Vrsar, built in the Many of the restaurants in backs of many of these face
17th century the area offer the oysters and the sea. The cathedral,
mussels farmed in the channel. dedicated to St Euphemia (Sv.
5 Vrsar (Orsera) Eufemija), dominates the town.
Map A3. * 2,200. k Pula, 41 km
Origi-nating in early Christian
(25 miles). £ Pazin, 42 km (26 miles). times, it was rebuilt in 1736. The
n Rade Končara 46, (052) 441 187. saint’s remains are preserved in
_ International sculpture school, a Roman sarcophagus in the
Montraker quarry (early Sep); classical apse on the right of the three-
music concerts (summer). aisle church. The adjacent bell
∑ infovrsar.com tower is 62 m (200 ft) high
(the second-highest in Istria),
The remains of a villa, a quarry Fishermen on the Limski Channel and was modelled on that
and the foundations of an early of San Marco in Venice. It is
Christian building all provide crowned by a copper statue
evidence that Romans once 6 Rovinj (Rovigno) of St Euphemia.
settled here. In documents Map A3. * 13,000. k Pula, 40 km
In the east of the city is the
preceding 1000 AD, this village (25 miles). £ Pula. @ Trg na lokvi, 13th-century Baptistry of the
is mentioned as the feudal (060) 333 111. n Obala Pina Holy Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo).
territory of the bishop of Poreč, Budicina 12, (052) 811 566. _ Grisia, Along the waterfront is the
who owned a fortified summer International art exhibition (2nd Sun Centre for Maritime Research.
residence here. Until 1778 it in Aug); Patron St Euphemia’s day It was founded in the late 19th
remained under the protection (16 Sep). ∑ tzgrovinj.hr century and has an aquarium.
of the bishop and then came Nearby, Red Island (Crveni otok)
under Venetian rule. Rovinj was originally an island is in fact two islands linked by
The town had an outer wall port built by the Romans. In an embankment.
and towers which have now 1763, Rovinj was joined to the South of the town is Zlatni Rt,
almost disappeared except for coast by filling in the channel a forest park planted with
the West and East Town Gate dividing the island from the cedars, pines and cypresses.
and some fragments of the mainland, creating a peninsula.
walls. On the harbour is the Initially ruled by the Byzantines E Heritage Museum
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija) and the Franks, from 1283 until Trg maršala Tita 11. Tel (052) 816 720,
from the 10th century, one of 1797 the town was under 830 650. Open summer: 10am–2pm,
the most important Romanesque Venetian control. The remains of 6–10pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm, 7–10pm
monuments in Istria. Guitar a wall dating back to the Middle Sat & Sun; winter: 10am–1pm Tue–Sat.
concerts are held here in the Ages can still be seen. ∑ muzej-rovinj.com
summer months.
The town is dominated by the
18th-century Vergottini Castle,
built by restructuring the
bishop’s former residence. Near
the Romanesque gate in the
medieval wall is the small church
of St Anthony, built in the 17th
century with an open portico.
Environs
Just outside Vrsar lies
Koversada, Europe’s largest
naturist resort.
To the south of Vrsar, towards
Rovinj, is the Limski Channel, Boats docked at the harbour in Rovinj
9 Fažana (Fasana)
Map A3. * 3,900. k Pula, 8 km
(5 miles). £ Vodnjan, 5 km (3 miles).
4 to the Brijuni Islands. n 43
istarske divizije 8, (052) 383 727.
∑ infofazana.hr
This small fishing town is known

mainly as the embarkation
point for the islands of the
Brijuni National Park (see pp60–
61). Its ancient name, Vasianum,
derives from the production of
oil and wine amphorae during
Church of St Elizabeth inside the walls of Bale the Roman period. Facing the
sea is the church of SS Cosmas
7 Bale (Valle) 8 Vodnjan and Damian (Sv. Kuzma i
Map A3. * 900. k Pula, 10 km (Dignano) Damjan), which was founded in
(17 miles). £ Pula, 25 km (15 miles). the 11th century and has under-
Map A3. * 4,000. k Pula, 11 km (7 gone various reconstructions.
@ Trg palih boraca. n Rovinjska 1,
miles). £ Željeznička ulica, (052) 511 Inside is a painting by Jurai
(052) 824 270. _ Night of Bale, 538. n Narodni trg 3, (052) 511 700.
Baljanska noć (first Sun in Aug); Ventura of The Last Supper
_ New Olive Oil Days (3rd weekend
Castrum Vallis, art exhibition (Jul & (1578), and in the sacristy are
in Nov). ∑ vodnjandignano.com
Aug). ∑ bale-valle.hr remains of frescoes by Italian
The town of Vodnjan stands on artists from Friuli dating from
On a hill of limestone, the a hill among vineyards and olive the 15th–16th centuries.
Illyrians constructed a fort which groves. At one time it was an To the side of the church is a
dominated the surrounding Illyrian fort and later, a Roman seven-storey bell tower with an
countryside. The Romans also military post known as Vicus octagonal spire. The Church of
built a castrum (Castrum Vallis) Atinianus. From 1331 until 1797, Our Lady of Carmel from the
on the same site, which was it was under Venetian rule. late 14th century has Gothic
renovated when the place The large People Square in frescoes by unknown artists and
became a feudal estate of the the centre of the town is sur- a 17th-century loggia. Nearby
Patriarchate of Aquileia. During rounded by notable buildings is the church of St Eliseus from
Venetian rule, which began in such as the Benussi House, the the 6th century, with a stone
1332, the town grew in size and Bembo House, the City Hall, doorway and blind-arch
acquired its present layout of built in Neo-Gothic style, and windows, which preserves its
an elliptical wall with towers the elegant Bradamante Palace. Byzantine appearance from
enclosing two parallel rows of The old part of town still has the 8th–9th centuries.
houses. Interesting buildings various buildings in Venetian- Thanks to the growth in
include the Gothic-Venetian Gothic style, including the Bettica numbers of visitors heading for
Magistrates’ Court with coats of Palace and the 18th-century the Brijuni Islands, the town has
arms on the portico; the loggia; Church of St Blaise (Sv. Blaž). In grown and new facilities have
and the Gothic-Renaissance the church are some splendid been built.
Castle dating from the 15th statues and about 20 paintings
century, a residence for the from the 14th to 19th centuries,
Soardo Bembo family. Under as well as a Last Supper by
one of the two side towers is a G Contarini (1598) and an
gate leading to the Old Town. Encounter of Saints attributed
The Church of St Elizabeth to Palma il Vecchio. There is
(Pohođenje Blažene Djevice also a fine polyptych by Paolo
Marije), of Romanesque origins, Veneziano from 1351 (Portrait of
was reconstructed in the 16th the Blessed Leon Bembo), plus six
century and again in the 19th. mummies of saints, which have
The church contains a splendid survived miraculously without
Romanesque crucifix, a sarcopha- being embalmed. The most
gus, a polyptych and a crypt revered is that of St Nicolosia.
with a marble Renaissance altar.
There are two other churches R St Blaise
in Bale. One dates from the Župni trg. Tel (052) 511 420.
14th century and is dedicated Open by appt. Collection of Religious
to St Anthony; the other, Art: Tel (052) 511 420. Open Jun–Sep:
dedicated to the Holy Spirit, 9:30am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Façade of the Church of SS. Cosmas and
was built in the 15th century. Sun; Oct–May: by appt. Damian in Fažana
0 Brijuni National Park

Nacionalni park Brijuni
SV. MARKO
The Brijuni Archipelago is made up

of 14 islands and was declared a
national park in 1983. The two GAZ
largest islands have been OBLJAK

inhabited since the Palaeolithic
MALI BRIJUN
era. In Roman times there were LESSER BRIJUN
aristocratic villas and later religious
communities. The islands were
abandoned in 1630 because of malaria, SUPIN
but people returned in the following century

to work the stone quarries. In the late 19th
century, the islands were bought by the Tyrolean
industrialist Paul Kupelwieser. After World War II they SUPINIĆ
were used as a summer residence by Marshal Tito, and
were visited by heads of state. Visitors are only allowed
on the two main islands, Veli Brijun and Mali Brijun.
Barban
The Brijuni Islands

The islands are covered
with lush vegetation,
much of it undisturbed
by human habitation.
GALIJA
GRUNJ
VANGA
Safari Park VRSAR

Tito introduced many species of exotic
animal, including zebra. Many were gifts
from visiting heads of state.
Key
Minor road
Native Animals
Numerous indigenous animals also
live freely in the park: fallow deer, 0 metres 800
moufflon, roe deer, hares, peacocks
0 yards 800
and about 200 species of wild bird.
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Map A3.
Tel (052) 525 888.
Individuals and groups must
book on an excursion, which
includes the boat crossing.
Bicycles can be hired.
Open always, but access
limited to crossing times.
& 8 ∑ np-brijuni.hr
Ancient Trees
Hundreds of different plant species from all over the world were Transport
planted on Brijun. Many of the trees, like this ancient olive, are 4 from Fažana.
now fully mature and are regarded as living monuments.
Roman Villa
Excavations have unearthed the
foundations of a Roman villa, its
calidarium (hot room) and a
frigidarium (cold room). A large
room where the family met for
banquets and ceremonies is
decorated with mosaics.
BRIONI
GOLF COURSE
VELIKI BRIJUN
GREATER BRIJUN
KEY
1 The fort of Mali Brijun is situated
on the second-largest island in the
archipelago. The Austro-Hungarian
fort was built at the end of the
Brijuni 19th century.
2 The museum, opened in 1955,
contains cultural and archaeological
finds from the island.
3 In the area around Brijuni
PUSTI harbour hotels and a golf course
have been built.
4 The Tegetthoff Fortress is
a ruined Austrian defence system
which was built in the 19th century.
5 The White Villa (Bijela Vila) dates
from the Venetian period. It was
restored in 1721. This was Tito’s
summer residence and was used for
receptions and political meetings.
Rt Ploče
Byzantine Castrum
On the western coast, in
the gulf of Dobrika, are
Peneda
the ruins of a complex
of buildings dating from
the Byzantine era
(539–778), with towers
and walls for defence.
q Pula (Pola)
Pula is well known for its magnificent monuments from
the Roman era, when it was a colony known as Pietas
Julia. It became an episcopal seat in 425 and still has the
foundations of some 5th-century religious buildings. It was
destroyed by the Ostrogoths, but flourished again when
it became the main base for the Byzantine fleet in the 6th
and 7th centuries: the cathedral and chapel of St Mary of
Formosa date from this time. In 1150 it came under Venetian
rule, but by the mid-17th century the population had
declined to 300. It was revitalized in 1856 when Austria
made it the base for its fleet. Today, Pula is a university
town and, with Pazin (see pp66–7), the administrative
centre of Istria.
The Cathedral’s interior, a combination of
styles and periods
R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane example of Roman architecture,
Uspon B. Lupetine 5. built on simple lines, with six
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–1pm, plain columns and beautiful
4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass. carved capitals.
Built at the same time as the
adjacent monastery in the late R Cathedral
13th century, this church has a Katedrala
fine doorway with a Gothic rose Trg sv. Tome 2. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–
window. The interior is a single 1pm, 4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass.
nave with three apses; on the The Cathedral, dedicated to
main altar is a splendid wooden the Blessed Virgin Mary, was
15th-century polyptych of the founded in the 5th century
Emilian school. Various exhibits after Pula became an episcopal
Arch of the Sergians, 1st century BC from the imperial Roman era can seat. Its present appearance
be seen in the monastery cloisters. dates back only as far as the
T Arch of the Sergians 17th century. However, parts
Slavoluk obitelji Sergijevaca T Temple of Augustus of the walls, some of the capitals
Ulica Sergijevaca. Augustov hram and the windows are from the
The arch was erected in the Forum. Tel (052) 218 603. original building. On the right
1st century BC on the orders Open Apr–Jun: 9am–9pm Mon–Fri, is a doorway from 1456, while
of Salvia Postuma Sergia, to 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; Jul & Aug: 9am– the bell tower, which was built
honour three brothers who 10pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; by 1707, contains stone blocks
held important positions in the Sep: 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm from the amphitheatre.
Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: by appt. &
Roman Empire. The arch is small
with fluted columns, a winged Built in the 1st century AD, this R Church of St Nicholas
Victory and Corinthian capitals. temple stands in the square Sv. Nikola
Its frieze has a bas-relief depicting which was once the site of the Castropola 39. Open for Mass.
a chariot pulled by horses. Roman forum. It is a splendid n (052) 212 987 (tourist office).
Next door is a bar named This church dates from the 6th
Uliks (“Ulysses”), in memory century but was partially rebuilt in
of James Joyce, who lived the 10th century. Towards the end
here for six months in 1904. of the 15th century it was assigned
to the Orthodox community.
R Chapel of St Mary Inside are some fine icons from
of Formosa the 15th and 16th centuries.
Kapela Marije Formoze
Maksimilijanova ulica. + Castle & Historical and
Closed to public. Maritime Museum of Istria
A small Byzantine chapel built Povijesni i pomorski muzej Istre
on a Greek cross plan, this was Gradinski uspon 6. Tel (052) 211 566.
once part of the large Basilica Open Jun–Sep: 8am–9pm daily; Oct–
of St Mary of Formosa. Inside May: 9am–5pm daily. &
are remains of mosaics from Temple of Augustus, a jewel of This star-shaped castle with four
the 6th century. Roman architecture bastions houses the Historical
PULA (POLA)  63
and Maritime Museum of Istria former German school, within VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and was built by the Venetians a park which is reached from
in the 17th century on the ruins the Twin Gate. On display are Practical Information
of the Roman Capitol in the city finds from Pula, with collections Map A3. * 60,000. n Tourist
centre. The walls linking the four from the prehistoric era to the office: Forum 3, (052) 219 197.
towers offer views over the city. Middle Ages. On the ground _ Music events in Arena,
Nearby are remains of a small, floor are architectural remains, Pula Amphitheatre (summer),
2nd-century Roman theatre. mosaics, altars and other Croatian Film Festival (summer).
∑ pulainfo.hr
exhibits from antiquity to
T Twin Gate medieval times. Transport
Dvojna vrata The rooms on the first floor k 8 km (5 miles), (052) 530 105.
Carrarina. contain exhibits from the g Jadroagent, (052) 210 431.
The gate, from the 2nd–3rd Neolithic to the Roman era. £ (052) 541 722. @ 43 istarske
centuries, has two arches with Three rooms on the second divizije, (060) 304 090.
an ornate frieze. Nearby floor are dedicated to Roman
are parts of the wall antiquity. Highlights of this
which once encircled collection include a headless T Gate of Hercules
the city. female statue found at Herculova vrata
Nesactium, near Pula). Carrarina.
E Archaeological Two rooms at the The arched Gate of Hercules,
Museum of Istria museum have exhibits built in the 1st century BC, is
Arheološki muzej Istre from the late Classical the oldest and best-preserved
Carrarina 3. Tel (052) 351 to medieval periods. Roman monument in the city. At
301. Closed for renovation Of particular interest the top of the arch is a carving of
untill 2018. & 8 by appt are pieces from the head of Hercules with a club.
= ∑ ami-pula.hr Slavic tombs dating
This museum is Headless Statue, from the 7th to the T Amphitheatre
housed in the Archaeological Museum 12th centuries. See pp64–5.
Pula Town Centre Train Station

200 m (220 yards)
1 Arch of the Sergians 9 Archaeological
Museum of Istria
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Pula Amphitheatre
Amfiteatar
The elliptical arena in Pula is one of the six largest

Roman amphitheatres existing today. Originally a small
amphitheatre built here by Claudius, it was enlarged by
Vespasian in AD 79 for gladiator fights. The amphitheatre
could hold 23,000 spectators and had about 20 entrances.
It remained intact until the 15th century when some of the
stone was used to construct the castle and other buildings
in the city. It was restored, first in 1816 by the French
governor of the Illyrian provinces, General Marmont, and
again in 1932 when it was adapted for musical events. It can The amphitheatre
seat 5,000 spectators and is a venue for concerts ranging
from opera to rock, as well as hosting an annual film festival.
Four Towers
The roofs of the towers
were designed to collect
the scented water that
was sprayed onto the stalls.
It is also thought that
there was a structure
capable of supporting
large awnings as protection
from the sun and rain.
Amphitheatre Wall
The well-preserved external wall of the
amphitheatre has three floors on the side facing
the sea, and two on the opposite side, because
it was constructed on an incline. At its highest
point, the external wall measures 29.4 m (96 ft).
PULA (POLA)  65
Flavijevska ulica. Tel (052) 219
028. Open summer: 8am–9pm
daily (to midnight Jul & Aug);
winter: 9am–5pm daily.
& 7 limited access.
Interior of the Amphitheatre Reconstruction

When first built, the broad tiers could seat an audience of 23,000
The main floor of the arena,
people. Shows of every kind were performed, including naval
67.75 m (222 ft) long and 41.05
battles. Today, during the summer season, operas, ballets and
plays are put on here. m (135 ft) wide, was originally
framed by iron railings to
separate spectators from the
performance. Between the tiers
of seats and the railings there
was a space, 3m (10 ft) wide,
reserved for staff. Along the
main axis, under the arena,
were underground corridors
used by the gladiators and
cages for animals. The animals
were kept here before being
sent into the stadium.
Arches
The first two floors have 72
arches, the third has 64 large
rectangular openings. The
arches lit the internal corridors
which enabled spectators to
move from one sector of the
amphitheatre to another.
KEY
Underground Area 1 The various corridors which led

Many archaeological finds from to the seats allowed spectators to
the amphitheatre and other find their places efficiently.
Roman buildings are kept in the 2 The southwest tower is one of
underground passages, where the entrances.
there were once cages and prisons.
w Barban in the village are found here, Around 1000 AD, two castles
Map B3. * 250. k Pula, 28 km including the 15th-century were built on neighbouring
(17 miles). £ Pula. @ from Pula. Church of the Annunciation hills and were later enclosed
n Barban 69, (052) 567 420. which contains two paintings by an oval wall. A village of
_ Trka na prstenac, Tournament by Palma il Giovane and an some 200 inhabitants grew
of the Ring (3rd weekend in Aug). Annunciation by Giuseppe up here around the basilica
∑ tz-barban.hr Porto-Salviati. of St Sophia, built between
The Castle dates from the the 11th and 12th centuries.
A free town in the late 13th century and is one of the Although attacked and
Middle Ages, in the 13th best preserved in the region. burned by the Genoese in the
century Barban came It belonged to the Venetian 14th century during the war
under the rule of the families of Castropola, with Venice, the village soon
county of Pazin, and the Morosini and the recovered. In the 17th century,
from 1516 until 1797 Grimani. In 1589, sacking by the Uskoks (see
it was part of Venetian the Grimani p83) and a malaria epidemic
territory. It was commissioned the depopulated the village. It has
granted to the architect Scamozzi not been inhabited since then.
Loredan family in to convert one of the
1535, and many square towers into
buildings acquired Church of the a residence for the
their current Venetian Annunciation, Venetian governors,
look. The town still has Svetvinčenat the other into a
some medieval fortifi- prison. High walls
cations which now incorporate connecting the other two round
several Renaissance buildings. towers enclose a large internal
The Church of St Nicholas courtyard. This is reached
(Sv. Nikola) faces the square, through the citadel’s only gate, Reconstruction of a room in the
which is reached through the which at one time had a Ethnographic Museum, Pazin
Great Gate (Vela Vrata). The drawbridge. The town’s coat of
church has five marble Gothic arms and that of the Grimani r Pazin
altars and many Venetian family can also be seen here.
paintings (16th–18th centuries), The town’s name derives Map B2. * 5,300. £ (052) 624 310.
@ (060) 306 040. n Franine i Jurine
one attributed to the Italian from the Romanesque church
and cemetery of St Vincent 14, (052) 622 460. ∑ central-istria.
artist Padovanino.
com/pazin
In the same square is the (Sv. Vinčenat), whose walls
Loredan Palace from 1606 and, were frescoed by an unknown
towards the Small Gate (Mala 15th-century artist. The town of Pazin originated
Vrata), the Town Hall, dating in the 9th century as a fort
from 1555. R St Vincent and stands on a cliff 130 m
Outside the Great Gate is Cemetery. Tel (052) 560 004. (426 ft) high. One side of the
the 14th-century Church of Open by appt. cliff falls away to an abyss,
St Anthony (Sv. Antun), with which is 100 m (328 ft) deep
frescoes from the 15th century. Environs and about 20 m (65 ft) wide,
In 1976, the Tournament of About 10 km (6 miles) away and is said to have inspired
the Ring was revived and are the ruins of Dvigrad Dante’s description of the
costumed lancers on horses (Duecastelli), an atmospheric, Gateway to Hell in Inferno,
participate in this traditional abandoned walled village, as well as Jules Verne’s novel
annual event. surrounded by lush vegetation. Mathias Sandorf.
R St Nicholas
Tel (052) 567 173. Open by appt.
e Svetvinčenat
Map A3. * 300. £ Pazin. @ from
Pula. n Svetvinčenat 20, (052) 560
349. ∑ tz-svetvincenat.hr
This walled village was built in

the 10th century on a small hill
around a much restructured
fort. The main square is one
of the most beautiful in Istria.
Many of the main buildings Imposing, overgrown ruins of Dvigrad
In the 14th century, Pazin

passed into the hands of the
Habsburgs, who sold it to
the Montecuccoli family in the
18th century. They maintained
ownership of the castle after
the end of the feudal regime.
The castle’s present layout
dates from the 16th century.
The tower is reached through
a doorway in the façade
made in 1786. It houses the
Ethnographic Museum of Istria
(Etnografski muzej Istre) and The hilltop town of Pićan with its 48-m (157-ft) bell tower, one of the tallest in Istria
the Pazin Town Museum, where
weaponry and finds from the y Pićan window decorates the façade
castle are on display. Map B2. * 320. @ only during
and inside are works by
The Church of the Visitation school year; contact Pazin (060) 306 Venetian artists of the 16th
of the Blessed Virgin Mary 040. n Franine i Jurine 14, Pazin, (052) and 17th centuries, including
(Pohođenje Blažene Djevice 622 460. ∑ central-istria.com/pican a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Marije) and its 15th-century In the same street are the
monastery are worth a visit. Known as Petina under the Scampicchio Palace and the
Romans, Pićan stands on a early 18th-century Baroque
E Ethnographic Museum of Istria hilltop 350m (1,150 ft) high. Battiala Lazzarini Palace, also
Castle, Trg Istarskog razvoda 1275, It was a bishop’s see from Late Venetian-influenced, and now
no 1. Tel (052) 622 220. Open 10am– Antiquity to the end of the 18th the Town Museum, with Roman
6pm daily. & 8 ∑ emi.hr century, and has some intriguing and medieval finds and a lifelike
E Pazin Town Museum medieval buildings. Inside the reconstruction of a coal mine.
Castle, Trg Istarskog razvoda 1275, medieval walls is a cathedral Labin was Croatia’s most
no 1. Tel (052) 623 054. Open Apr–Oct: dedicated to St Nicephorus, important coal mining town
10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm built in the 14th century, and until the mines were closed
Tue–Thu, 11am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm rebuilt in the early 18th century down in 1999. In 1921, in
Sat & Sun. & 8∑ muzej-pazin.hr after an earthquake. The story of opposition to rising Fascism in
the Christian martyr Nicephorus Italy, 2,000 coalminers set up the
is shown in a painting by Valentin Labin Republic, a socialist mini-
t Gračišće Metzinger (1699–1759) in the state that barely lasted a month.
cathedral. The Romanesque
Map B2. * 470. £ Pazin, 7 km
Church of St Michael (Sv. Mihovil) E Town Museum
(4 miles). @ only during school
in the cemetery has early 15th- Ulica 1 svibnja. Tel (052) 852 477.
year; contact Pazin (060) 306 040.
century frescoes. Open May–Sep: 10am–1pm & 5–7pm
n Franine i Jurine 14, Pazin, (052) 622
(Jul & Aug: 6–8pm) Mon–Sat; Oct–Apr:
460. ∑ central-istria.com/gracisce
7am–2pm Mon–Fri (by appt).
This small village stands on a hill u Labin
among woods and vineyards. It Map B3. * 12,000. @ Ulica 2, marta,
Environs
was once a strong military garri- (060) 333 888. n Aldo Negri 20, (052) About 4 km (2 miles) from Labin
son, and the second line of 855 560. _ Classical music concerts is Rabac, a popular seaside resort.
defence for the Venetian Republic (Jul–Aug). ∑ rabac-labin.com
and the Habsburg empire. The
town has some interesting build- The old part of Labin is made
ings, such as the 15th-century up of the medieval part inside
Salamon Palace and the Bishop’s the walls, and the part from
Chapel (both in Venetian Gothic the Venetian period around Tito
style) where the bishop of Pićan Square (Titov Trg). Here stand
spent the summer. the 19th-century Town Hall, a
The Church of St Mary 17th-century bastion, a loggia
(Sv. Marije) was consecrated in (1550) and the St Flora gate
1425 and has a barrel vault and (1587) with a Lion of St Mark.
many frescoes. The Romanesque In the square called Stari Trg
Church of St Euphemia lies the Magistrates’ Court (1555)
(Sv. Eufemija) was built in 1383 and in a street leading off the
and renovated in 1864. It still square stands the Gothic
has a wooden crucifix from the Church of the Blessed Mary’s
13th century. The loggia near Birth (Rođenje Marijino), built
the main gate dates from 1549. in the late 14th century. A rose Café in Tito Square, Labin
o Mošćenice p Lovran
Map B2. * 330. k Rijeka, 53 km Map B2. * 4,000. k Rijeka, 50 km
(33 miles), on the island of Krk. (31 miles, island of Krk). £ Rijeka,
£ Rijeka. n Aleja Slatina bb, 20 km (13 miles). @ Opatija, 6 km
Mošćenička Draga, (051) 739 166. (4 miles). n Trg slobode 1, (051) 291
∑ tz-moscenicka.hr 740. _ Asparagus Festival (Apr);
Cherry Days (Jun); Marunada,
This small village was founded chestnut festival (mid-Oct).
by the Liburnians on a small ∑ tz-lovran.hr
hilltop. The structure of the
medieval town is still evident, The town of Lovran (whose
with houses pressed against name derives from the laurel
the walls, narrow streets, small trees which are common
alleys and courtyards. There are throughout the area) extends
lovely views over the Kvarner along the coast until it meets
Old Town square of Plomin, surrounded by Gulf from the village. the long seafront at Opatija (see
lush green trees In the main square is p69). The old part of the town
the Church of St Andrew is situated on a small peninsula
i Plomin (Sv. Andrije), a building of along the coast. The houses in
Map B3. * 140. k Pula, 54 km
medieval origin which the ancient fortified town lean
(34 miles). £ Rijeka, 55 km (34 miles). was rebuilt in the against the enclosing walls,
n Vozilići 66, Vozilići; (052) 880 155; Baroque style in the of which only a very few
Regional: Pionirska 1, Poreč, 17th century. Inside parts and sections remain:
(052) 452 797. are some statues by just a tower and the
the Paduan sculptor Stubica Gate. In the main
An ancient fortified town once Jacopo Contieri. Just square, as well as a
stood here on the site of the outside the walls are medieval tower there
Roman town Flanona, which the small Church of are several houses with
was destroyed by the Avars in St Sebastian from the Venetian Gothic façades
the 6th century. It was rebuilt 16th century, and the and also the Church of
after 1000 AD and took on its 17th-century Church St George (Sv. Juraj), built
present look in the 13th century of St Bartholomew. in the 12th century and
after it had become Venetian The history of the area rebuilt in the Baroque
territory. Plomin, built on a is documented in the period, along with
sheer cliff 168 m (550 ft) above Ethnographic Museum a Romanesque bell
the bay of the same name, was (Etnografski Muzej). tower. Inside the
once densely populated. Statue by Contieri, church church, on the vault
Houses take up nearly all E Ethnographic of St Andrew, Mošćenice and the arch of the
the space inside the walls Museum apse are some late-
(from the 13th–14th centuries Tel (051) 737 551. Open summer: Gothic frescoes (1470–79)
and only partially preserved). 9am–1pm, 6–9pm daily; winter: depicting the life of Christ and
Worn, narrow roads climb 11am–3pm daily. Closed Jan & Feb. several saints. A building with a
towards the centre, where figure of St George stands in the
the 11th-century Romanesque Environs main square and is worth a visit.
Church of St George (Sv. Juraj) A series of steps leads down Along the coastal promenade,
stands. Inside is a tablet in to Mošćenićka Draga which extends between
Glagolitic script also dating (2 km/1 mile), where there Lovran and the village of Ika,
from the 11th century, one is a large pebble beach. stand several beautiful early
of the oldest documents
in this ancient Slavic script
extant in Croatia.
The Church of the Blessed
Virgin Mary (Crkva Blažene
Djevice Marije) also contains
treasures of artistic merit. The
church was consecrated in
1474, but was greatly altered
in the 18th century. There are
three Baroque altars in carved,
painted wood and a rich
church treasury. A fresco by
Albert, a German painter from
Konstanz, was found on the
wall during restoration work. Old mill at the Ethnographic Museum, Mošćenice
Villa Angiolina in Opatija, surrounded by a splendid park
20th-century Secessionist A few years later the Austrian d Kastav

villas (see p27), surrounded by Empress Maria Anna stayed here Map B2. * 10,000. k Rijeka, 20 km
lush gardens. and her visit was immediately (12 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka,
followed by visits from other 11 km (7 miles). @ Rijeka, 11 km
R St George court dignitaries. More luxury (7 miles). n Matka Laginje 5, (051) 691
Open Jul & Aug: 7–9:30pm Mon, hotels and villas were then built 425. _ Bela nedeja, wine festival (first
Wed & Fri. and the small town became a Sun in Oct). ∑ kastav-touristinfo.hr
fashionable turn-of-the-century
resort. Tourism in Opatija was On a hill a short distance from
a Tour of the given a boost by the construc- Rijeka is the town of Kastav,
Fortified Towns tion of the railway line which which originated in the early
See pp70–71.
linked Austria with Rijeka, with Middle Ages. The castle was
a tram line to Opatija. the residence of the local lord
The Emperor Franz Joseph of the manor until the 16th
s Opatija also stayed at a hotel here, often century, and later the home
for long periods during the of the Austrian governor. In
Map B2. * 13,000. k Rijeka, 40 km
(25 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka. winter in order to enjoy the mild Lokvina square stand the
@ Rijeka. n Local: Vladimara Nazora climate of the area. Today the church of St Anthony of the
3, (051) 271 710; Regional: Nikole Tesle coast is still lined with luxury Desert, which dates from the
2, (051) 272 988. _ Carnival of the late-19th-century hotels and 15th century, and a loggia from
Riviera (Feb); Coffee Festival (Apr); villas surrounded by parks and 1571, restored in 1815. By the
Gourmet Story (May); Summer Festival gardens. However, it is no longer water trough a plaque recalls
(May–Sep); Opatija-Imperial City (Jul); the height of fashion, although the drowning in 1666 of
Liburnia Jazz Festival (Jul); Chocolate older visitors are drawn by its Captain Morelli, guilty of
Festival (Dec). ∑ visitopatija.com comparative tranquillity. imposing excessive taxes.
The resort of Opatija takes its

name from a 14th-century
Benedictine abbey, around
which a village was built. On
the site of the monastery now
stands the Church of St James
(Sv. Jakov), built in 1506 and
enlarged in 1937.
Tourist interest began to
grow in around 1844 when a
nobleman from Rijeka, Iginio
Scarpa, built the grand Villa
Angiolina here. The villa is
surrounded by a large park
and became the first hotel. Opatija, once a royal haunt and now a popular tourist destination
a Tour of the Fortified Towns

The villages and towns of Istria were all fortified. The first
people to build walls were the Histri (an Illyrian tribe), who
put up defences on the hilltops where they settled. There are
136 such fortified towns in Istria. Many were abandoned, but
evidence in some shows continuous occupation from 1000 BC
up to the present day. The walls were reinforced in Roman
times and rebuilt in the late Middle Ages, then enlarged when
the towns came under Austrian or Venetian rule. Documents 3 Hum
written in the ancient Glagolitic script can be seen on a detour. This small village is protected
by an oval wall, reinforced
by the Venetians. The
4 Buzet
Church of St Jerome has
An Illyrian fort and a Roman splendid 12th-century
fortification (Pinquentum), Buzet Byzantine frescoes.
belonged to the Venetians from 1420
onwards. They rebuilt the town wall
with a Large Gate and a Small Gate
(16th century). Today Buzet is known
for its truffles.
Istarske
Toplice
Račice
Livade
Pazin
5 Draguć
Medieval walls form the backs of the
houses in this village. Ramparts were built
by the Venetians after 1420. The 16th-
century Church of St Roch has a series of
frescoes, including a Journey of the Magi.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3 6 Motovun
This medieval town stands on a hill dominating the
Key valley. The Old Town is still encircled by an original
Tour route
13th–14th-century wall. Later, a second wall was
built around the suburbs. An internal gate, under a
Trail of the Glagolitics 15th-century tower, leads from the Lower Town to
Other roads the Upper Town.
Tips for Walkers

Departure point: Boljun.
Distance: 77 km (48 miles)
one way. Stopping-off points:
Motovun Konoba Mondo,
(052) 681 791 (restaurant);
Hum Humska Konoba, (052) 660
005 (restaurant); Buzet Restaurant
Toklarija, (091) 926 67 69;
n Buzet Šetalište Vladimira
2 Roč Gortana 9, (052) 662 343.
The wall around Roč was built by the Patriarchate of Aquileia Motovun Trg Andrea Antico 1,
in the 14th century. Towers were added in the 1500s. Roč was (052) 681 726. Poreč Istria Tourist
an important centre for Glagolitic writing and in the 1200s the Board, Pionirska 1, Poreč, (052)
alphabet was carved on a wall in the Church of St Anthony Abbot. 452 797.
The Romanesque Church of St Roch contains two fresco cycles.
Ročko Polje
J
1 Boljun
The village still has some of its medieval walls, the
16th-century ramparts, a tower and a water
trough from 1697. The grain store, loggia and the
RomanesqueChurch of SS Cosmas and Damian
J Lupoglav
are on the main road. Gothic paintings can be
seen in the 14th-century Church of St Peter.
Dolenja Vas J
Vranja
Opatija
Pazin
The Trail of Glagolitic Documents

The “Glagolitic Alley” (Aleja Glagoljaša) winds between Roč and
Hum. It is 7 km (4 miles) long and was created from 1977 to 1985
to commemorate this ancient Slavic script. Along the way are
11 significant Glagolitic documents recalling events and people who
contributed to the spread of the writing, invented in the 9th century
by the saints Cyril and Methodius to translate the scriptures into Glagolitic document in stone on
Slavonic in order to disseminate Christian liturgy among Slav peoples. the trail to Roč

f Rijeka R Church of the Assumption

Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice
Founded by the Liburnians and conquered by the Celts, Marije
this town became a Roman city called Tarsatica. Over the Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3. Tel (051) 214
177. Open 8am–noon, 4–6pm.
centuries it frequently changed hands, and finally came
The Church of the Assumption,
under the rule of the Habsburgs. In 1719, to develop its once a cathedral, preserves little
maritime role, Ferdinand of Habsburg declared Rijeka a of its original 13th-century
free port. The city became part of the kingdom of Hungary aspect. It was renovated in
in 1870 and its economic importance continued to grow. the Baroque style in 1695
Together with shipyards and industry, Rijeka is one of and altered in 1726 with
Croatia’s main ports and a key rail and road junction. In Rococo details, and a
16th-century rose window
February and March each year, Rijeka hosts Croatia’s was inserted. Inside, the altars,
largest carnival celebrations. some paintings and the
chancel are from the Baroque
R Church of St Nicholas period. The bell tower bears
Pravoslavna crkva hram the date of its construction
svetog Nikolaja (1377); the upper part is in
Ignacija Henkea 2. Tel (051) 335 399. Gothic style.
Open 8am–1pm, 6–6:40pm daily.
This church, built by the Ortho- R St Vitus Cathedral
dox community in 1790, contains Katedrala sv. Vida
fine icons from Vojvodina, Serbia. Trg Grivica. Tel (051) 330 879.
Open 7am–noon, 4:30–7pm.
P City Tower The Church of St Vitus, patron
Gradski Toranj saint of the city, is now the
About halfway along the Korzo cathedral. This large Baroque
is the City Tower, first built in church was built between
the Middle Ages. It has been 1638 and 1742 by the Jesuits.
remodelled several times, Baroque altars and a
most significantly at the Gothic crucifix from
The Korzo, a pedestrian avenue with turn of the 18th century. the 13th century
19th-century buildings The clock dates from adorn the interior.
the 17th century
Exploring Rijeka and the dome was E Maritime and
Over recent decades, the city added in 1890. An Detail of the History Museum of
has expanded along the coast imposing building, it is Civic Tower the Croatian Littoral
and into the surrounding hills. decorated with coats of Pomorski i povijesni
However, its Central European arms, including those of the muzej Hrvatskog primorja
atmosphere is still preserved city and the Habsburgs, and Muzejski trg 1/1. Tel (051) 213 578.
in the majestic 19th-century busts of the emperors Leopold I Open 9am–4pm Mon, 9am–8pm
buildings along the Korzo and and Charles VI. Tue–Sat, 4–8pm Sun. &
the Riva, two broad avenues This is the oldest museum in
south of the Old Town (Stari P Town Hall Rijeka, founded in 1876, but
Grad), built on land reclaimed Municipij since 1955 housed in the
from the sea. The Korzo is the Trg Riječke rezolucije.
heart of the city, lined with cafés, In 1883, the 14th-century
bars, restaurants and shops. Augustinian monastery was
turned into the Town Hall. It takes
R Capuchin Church of up three sides of the square and
Our Lady of Lourdes is now used as offices.
Kapucinska Crkva Gospe Lurdske
Kapucinske stube 5. Tel (051) 335 233. T Roman Arch
Open 7am–noon, 4–8pm daily. Stara vrata
North of Žabica Square (Trg Trg Ivana Koblera.
Žabica), the church was built In an alley leading from the north
between 1904 and 1929 on the side of the square are the remains
orders of the abbot of the neigh- of a Roman arch, which was
bouring Capuchin monastery probably a gate to the city. It is a
on his return from a pilgrimage simple stone structure. Nearby,
to Lourdes, to mark the 50th excavations have unearthed the
anniversary of the Virgin’s foundations of a perimeter wall Gothic crucifix in the Cathedral of
miraculous apparition there. from the Roman period. St Vitus
Governor’s Palace built in 1896. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The history of navigation is told
through the collections of Practical Information
model ships, weapons and Map B2. * 130,000.
seafaring equipment from the n Korzo 14, (051) 335 882.
17th and 18th centuries. There _ Rijeka’s Summer Nights (Jun–
are also rich archaeological Jul), Rijeka Carnival (Feb–Mar).
∑ visitRijeka.hr
collections from prehistory to
the Middle Ages, displays of Transport
prints, furniture, paintings and k Krk, (051) 842 132.
an ethnographic collection. £ Krešimirova ulica, (060) 333
444. @ Trg Žabica 1, (060) 302
P Shrine of our Lady of Trsat Altar of Our Lady of Trsat, with a copy of 010. 4 Senjsko pristanište 3, (051)
Svetište Majke Božje Trsatske the painting of the Virgin 212 696; Adriatica d.o.o.: Verdijeva
Frankopanski trg. Tel (051) 452 900. 6, (051) 214 511; Jadrolinija, Riječki
Open daily. To compensate the local people lukobran bb, (051) 211 444.
On the opposite bank of the for this loss, in 1367 Pope
Rječina river, above the centre Urban V donated to them a
of Rijeka, is Trsat. At the top of Virgin with Child, painted by P Trsat Castle
the 561 steps from Tito Square St Luke, a copy of which now Trsatski kaštel
(Titov trg) is the Shrine of stands on the main altar. Partizanski put 9a. Tel (051) 217 714.
Our Lady of Trsat. The church The sanctuary was visited Open summer: 8am–8pm; winter:
and Franciscan monastery by soldiers and sailors who 9am–5pm. 8 -
were built in 1453 by Martin left votive gifts, now kept in The Sanctuary of Our Lady leads
Frankopan on the site of a a chapel next to the cloisters. to a castle built by the Romans
12th-century church. It was The church was remodelled in to defend Tarsatica, parts of
in this church, from 1291 to 1864 but retained the triumphal which still survive. In the 13th
1294, that parts of the Holy arch, the marble altar which century, Trsat was owned by the
House of Mary of Nazareth sits underneath the painting Frankopans, who built another
were preserved before being of the Virgin, and tombs of the castle on the same site. It offers
transferred to Loreto in Italy. Frankopan family. fine views over the Kvarner gulf.
Rijeka Town Centre

1 Capuchin Church of 7 St Vitus Cathedral
Our Lady of Lourdes 8 Maritime and History
2 Church of St Nicholas Museum of the
3 City Tower Croatian Littoral
Natural Park V
4 Town Hall History Nazora A
Maritime and Museum ZOR
5 Roman Arch History Museum of IR A
NA
D IM
6 Church of the Assumption the Croatian Littoral VLA
TE
DE A L IŠ
ŽM
AN ŠET
A
Train Station A
RIJ
300 m (330 yards) F. K

LV A
U RE
LC
KA
A
TR ŽR TRSAT
PIM Capuchin Church TA
VA
A
of Our DO Roman
PIL
IRO LA FA
VA Lady of Lourdes C Arch Š IZM
SU
TRG
ŽABICA A
NA
S
JADRANSKI Town MATR O
Bus YE SS
FRA
TRG Hall TITOV RO

St Vitus
- VA
Station TRG
OLD TOWNK Cathedral
TRG OV
AČ
REPUBLIKE KA
HRVATSKE
KO
City
RI AD Church of
VA AM RZ Tower
O the Assumption
Ferry IČ
Dock EV
A
A
Church of JELAČIČEV
AR
TRG
St Nicholas
UM
IV
AN
FI
VA
A
ZA
LI
RI
JC
DU
A
A
ČK
BO
Market
KO
VA
US
Croatian
RI
DE
ME National
TR
OV
A Theatre
0 metres 200
0 yards 200

g Cres VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The narrow island of Cres is 65 km (40 miles) long. In the Practical Information
north, a colony of native griffon vultures, protected by law Map B3. * 3,200. 4 (051) 211
444. n Cres: Cons 10, (051) 571
since 1986, nests on a plateau swept by the dry, cold bora 535; Osor: (051) 231 547.
wind. The south is milder and olives and vines are grown. ∑ tzg-cres.hr
A single road travels from the north of Cres to the south of
Lošinj, linking the islands by a bridge. Tourism focuses on
just a few villages such as Cres and Osor. remains and some splendid
monuments, making it a centre
of great artistic interest.
The beautiful 15th-century
Cathedral of the Assumption
was completed in 1497 and is
built of honey-coloured stone.
The façade has an arched
tympanum above a doorway
with a relief of the Virgin Mary.
Inside the church there is a
painting of SS Nicholas and
Gaudentius on the altar.
The Cres Museum (Creski
muzej) occupies the Arsan Palace
Dry stone walls and olive groves overlooking the town of Cres and has stone inscriptions and
interesting finds from the Illyrian
Cres Town The walls and the three gates and Roman periods, and the
Cres nestles in a bay with stone arches give the early Middle Ages. The façade of
Porozina sheltered by the hill town a Venetian feel, and the the Bishop’s Palace (second half
Beli behind. The town Church of Our Lady of the of the 15th century) bears coats
became important Snow has paintings by artists of arms of the bishops and
when the bishopric from the Venetian school. nobles of the island and the
J
and governor’s The 16th-century Town Hall, interior is richly decorated.
seat were or Loggia, is now a fruit and Some walls, foundations and
transferred here vegetable market. mosaics are all that remain of
from Osor. The old port is a lively place, the Church of St Peter.
bustling with fishermen and
visitors. The Town Gate, a clock E Cres Museum
tower and several Renaissance Creski muzej
buildings face the port. Petris-Arsan Palace, Ribarska 7.
Cres Tel (051) 344 963. Open Apr–mid-Jun
Plavnik The Church of St Isidore & mid-Sep–mid-Oct: 9am–noon Tue–
(the patron saint), dates Sat; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 10am–1pm &
from the 12th century. 7–11pm Tue–Sun; mid-Oct–Mar: by
appt. Temporary exhibitions: hours
Osor vary, phone ahead. Closed Mon.
Lubenice Until the mid-15th century
CRES this was the main town on
the island, with a port and a
Vidovići bishopric. It later declined and
the capital was moved to Cres.
Today the entire town is a
museum, with Bronze Age
Štivan Belej
Key
Minor road
Scenic road
Nerezine
Osor
0 kilometres 8
0 miles 8
Door of the Gothic Church of Our Lady of

Pogana
the Snow, Cres
Osor
h Lošinj (Lussino) UNIJE

J
Nerezine
The island of Lošinj has a mild climate and
Sv. Jakov
sub-tropical vegetation with maritime pines,
palms, oleanders and citrus trees. The main
• Unije
town, Mali Lošinj, was founded in the Čunsi
12th century, when 12 Croat families landed LOŠINJ
here. The most famous beach is at Čikat bay,
southwest of Mali Lošinj. It is 30 km (19 miles) Mali Lošinj
long and a popular place for water sports.
Veli Lošinj
SUSAK
Environs Susak
The island of Susak is
renowned for its unusual 0 kilometres 6
geology: a 10-m (33-ft) layer 0 miles 6
Ilovik
of sand covering a calcareous ILOVIK
platform. Vines grow well on Key

this soil and all the islanders Minor road
have vineyards; their wealth is
Path
measured by the number of
vines they own. The vines,
grown on terraces and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Interior of the church of St Anthony Abbot, protected by cane windbreaks,
Veli Lošinj are further sheltered by dry- Practical Information
stone walls which are typical Map B3. * 8,500.
Mali Lošinj of the islands and the coastline n Mali Lošinj: Priko 42, (051)
This pretty town, which, like Cres, of the upper Adriatic. The 231 547/051) 231 884; For Unije,
belonged to Venice for many picturesque, brightly coloured Susak and Ilovik, contact the
centuries, has many buildings women’s costumes are famous. Tourist Office at Mali Lošinj.
∑ visitlosinj.hr
from the 18th and 19th centuries, They are made by the islanders
when maritime activity was at during the winter months and Transport
its height. The oldest part of shown off at festivals. 4 Mali Lošinj, (051) 231 765.
the town lies around the 18th- The island of Ilovik, south
century Church of St Mary. of Lošinj, covers an area of
The Museum of Apoxyomenos nearly 6 sq km (2.3 sq miles) (mosaics, coins and other
houses the famous bronze statue and is home to about 170 objects) have been discovered
of Apoxyomenos, a Greek work people, most of whom live on Susak and Ilovik.
that dates back to the 2nd or in the village of Ilovik on the Unije is the largest of the
1st century BC. The fascinating northeast coast. Vines, olives, lesser islands. It is hilly with little
story of the statue’s discovery fruit and flowers grow well in vegetation and a steep rocky
and restoration is told through this mild climate. Nearby is the coast on the eastern side, but
interactive exhibits. uninhabited island of Sv. Petar, there is a more accessible coast
where there are the ruins of on the western side. The village
Veli Lošinj a Venetian fortress and is built around the Church of
Quieter than Mali Lošinj, this is a a Benedictine Abbey with St Andrew. The islanders make
lovely town with villas hidden a church and monastery. their living from market
among the vegetation. The Prehistoric and Roman finds gardening or fishing.
church of St Anthony Abbot
(Sv. Antun Pustinjak) was built in
the 18th century on the site of
a smaller 15th-century church.
It has a rich store of paintings,
with examples by Bartolomeo
Vivarini (1430–90), Bernardo
Strozzi (1581–1644) and
Francesco Hayez (1791–1882).
The Baroque style is much in
evidence on the seven altars.
There is a splendid view of the
town and the coastline from
the 16th-century tower of the
Uskoks (see p83). Overlooking the fishing harbour of Mali Lošinj
j Risnjak National Park: The Leska Trail

Nacionalni park Risnjak
The vast Gorski Kotor plateau, separating Croatia from Slovenia,
begins north of Rijeka. Part of the area has been declared a
national park in order to protect the forests and natural environ-
ment and the ecological balance of the area. The park, set up in
1953, first covered an area of 32 sq km (12 sq miles), but it is now
double that size, most of it made up of forests and grasslands
Crni Lug
with many karst (limestone) features. The climatic conditions, Leska
caused by the territory’s particular exposure and altitude, are

Park area
very varied and about 30 different plant communities have been
The Leska trail
identified. The Leska trail was set up in 1993, and 23 information
panels inform visitors about various aspects of this area.
6 Feed Troughs
8 Silver Fir Forest 7 Chasm Feed troughs are set up
The silver fir, in great Cold air from the chasm and the damp here in winter to provide
demand for boat building, subsoil of this rocky fissure make the food for all the animals
has disappeared from many flora of great interest: plants which in the park.
woods in Croatia; here it normally only grow at the higher
mingles with beech trees. altitudes of the park can be found here.
Hranilište
Osmatračnica
Klada
Gmajna
Markov
Brlog
9 Observatory
From this viewing platform
the behaviour of animals
such as bears, foxes, lynxes,
martens and wild cats can be
observed in the woods. There
are also many birds, both non-
migratory and birds of passage.
Towards evening at certain
times of the year, eagles, hawks
and crows can also be seen. Leska
0 Cultivating the Countryside

Only one house is inhabited in the village
of Leska. It is used from spring to autumn
by farmers, who come to grow potatoes,
peas and beans on specially built terraces.
w Tree Trunks
Fungi thrive in the
q Springs cracks of old tree
Water flows under the layers of trunks providing a
impervious rock and springs are source of food for
created where the water emerges. insects too.
5 Beech and
Fir Forests
The trail goes
through woods
Map B2. n Bijela Vodica 48, Crni
of fir and beech
Lug, (051) 836 133, (051) 836 261.
trees; many of
Open summer: 7am–10pm daily;
the trees are very
winter: 7am–9pm daily. & 8
large. The under
The Leska trail is 4.2 km (2.6 miles)
growth consists of
long, easy and well signposted.
hazelnut, bilberry
It takes about 2 hours to cover.
and elder bushes.
∑ risnjak.hr
4 Mountain Meadows
The areas which
were deforested for
agriculture or grazing
land for animals are now
mountain meadows. In
late spring they explode
with the varied colours
of heather, purple
moor grass, fescue
and other grasses.
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
1 Conservation of Trees
The protection of the older, larger
plant species was one of the reasons Crni Lug
the reserve was set up. Within the park
are examples of enormous ancient
beech, spruce and silver fir trees, and
also some rarer trees, such as the
mountain elm and maple.
2 Storm Damage
When strong winds blow down
old or sick trees, they are left
where they fall as they provide
suitable growing conditions for
microorganisms such as fungi.
Key 3 Karst Sinkholes

A karst sinkhole is a funnelshaped hollow in the land.
Pedestrian trail This feature is caused by water erosion of the rock and
Other roads is characteristic of limestone areas.
k Krk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This is the largest of the Adriatic islands, with an area of Practical Information
409 sq km (158 sq miles). A bridge links the island to the Map B3. * 17,860.
n Krk island: Trg sv. Kvirina 1, Krk,
mainland, built to provide good connections to the island’s (051) 221 359; Krk town: Vela
international airport. Along the eastern coast the island placa 1, (051) 221 414; Baška:
looks almost ghostly, its white rocks swept by the bora Kralja Zvonimira 114, (051) 856
wind. Inland and on the more protected western coast, 817; Njivice: Ribarska obala 10,
(051) 846 243. ∑ krk.hr
there is rich, lush vegetation.
Transport
k (051) 842 040.
4 Valbiska: (051) 863 170;
Baška: (051) 856 821.
houses the Diocesan Museum.

This contains works from the
cathedral and other churches
on the island, including the
silver Frankopan altarpiece
depicting the Virgin Mary in
Glory and a polyptych (1350)
by Paolo Veneziano.
Crystal-clear waters surrounding the island of Krk Behind the cathedral stands
the Frankopan castle with four
Krk was first inhabited by the of lightcoloured stone. Inside square towers from 1191, and a
Liburnians, followed by the are four paintings (1706) by round tower from the Venetian
Romans, who founded Curicum Cristoforo Tasca, and a fine period. Inside the walls are
(the present-day Krk) and wooden Baroque pulpit. churches dedicated to Our
Fulfinum. Traces of walls, baths The treasury is in the adjacent Lady of Health and St Francis.
and villas with floor mosaics Romanesque Church of The latter has an engraved
still remain. St Quirinus which wooden pulpit.
In the 6th century it came Rijeka
under Croatian rule and after Omišalj
the Frankish and Byzantine Omišalj lies on a headland near
occupation it became part of the site of Roman Fulfinum.
the possessions of Venice. It Omišalj The village (Castrum
was then granted to Dujam I, Musculum in the Middle
founder of the Frankopan Rudine Ages) was enclosed by
family, and from 1480 to 1797 walls, some of which
it was directly ruled by Venice. Njivice Klimno survive. There is a
Krk was a centre for Glagolitic Malinska square with a
script and the Baška Tablet, now Šilo 17th-century
in the Croatian Academy of Arts Venetian
and Sciences in Zagreb, was Porat
found on the island. Glavotok
Šepići
Krk Town Vrbnik
KR K
The town of Krk developed in
the Middle Ages on the site of
the Roman town of Curicum. Košljun
The wall and three Venetian city Valbiska Krk Punat
gates are still visible: the City
Gate with a guard tower called
Kamplin, the Sea Gate (Pisana) Jurandvor
and the Upper Gate. Facing the Baška
main square are Renaissance-
era buildings and in the area Key Stara Baška
of the Roman baths is the Major road
Cathedral of Our Lady of the
Minor road
Assumption, dating from the
Scenic route 0 kilometres 8
1100s but modified since. The
three-aisle church has a façade 0 miles 8
Byzantine mosaic, Euphrasian Basilica, Poreč For keys to symbols see back flap
loggia, the Church of St Helen l Bakar

with reproductions of Glagolitic
Map B2. * 1,600. n Primorje 39,
script, and the Romanesque (051) 761 111. _ Margareta’s
church of Assumption of Summer, concerts, sports events and
St Mary (Uznesenja Marijina) shows in the čakavski dialect (Jun–
(13th century) with a dome, bell Aug). ∑ tz-bakar.hr
tower and 16th-century choir,
and a 15th-century triptych by The demolition of a refinery and
Jacobello del Fiore. a coke plant has brought visitors
back to this town, which was
once a popular destination for Internal courtyard in the Frankopan
people attracted to the land- castle, Kraljevica
scape of the area and curious
about the phenomena of the z Kraljevica
fresh-water springs. These Map B2. * 4,600. k Rijeka. 4 (051)
springs originate in underground 282 078. n Rovina bb, (051) 282 078.
sources and flow out to the coast. _ Shrovetide sezona, traditional
The Frankopan Castle and masked ball (carnival). ∑ tzg-
surrounding fishing village are kraljevica.hr
also worth a visit. The village
stands on the site of the Roman A well-known tourist resort on
Volcera. From the 13th century the mainland, Kraljevica is linked
until 1577 it belonged to the to the island of Krk by a long
Frankopans who, in the early bridge which also connects with
14th century, built a triangular- Rijeka airport (on Krk). In the Old
Glagolitic inscription and rose window, shaped castle. It is still well Town (Stari Grad) is a castle, built
Assumption of Mary, Omišalj preserved with high windows in the 16th century by the family
which were salvaged when it of the counts of Šubić-Zrinski.
Baška was transformed into a palace The castle walls also shelter the
Not to be confused with for the Šubić-Zrinski family who small Church of St Nicholas.
isolated Stara Baška (Old Baška) lived in the property after A village inhabited by families
Omišalj. Baška (New Baška) is the Frankopans. from the fortress of Hreljin
on the coast and is a popular The parish Church of developed around the castle.
tourist resort with a beautiful St Andrew the Apostle has a In the new district (Novi Grad),
beach, 2 km (1 mile) long, and painting of the Holy Trinity by on a small promontory above
clear sea. The Church of the Girolamo da Santacroce and a the sea, is a castle built by the
Holy Trinity (1723) stands in a Crucifix from the 14th century. Frankopan family in 1650 in the
small square; inside is a fine Situated close to the Church late-Renaissance style. It has a
Last Supper by Palma il Giovane. of St Andrew, the Turkish House, square ground-plan with four
Behind Baška, around a castle also known as “The House of round towers. It was turned into
destroyed in the 11th century, is Painters”, draws visitors who a magnificent palace in the
Stari grad, with the Romanesque come to admire its exotic, middle of the 18th century.
Church of St John, rebuilt in 1723. Ottoman-style architecture. In 1728, the Austrian emperor
In the Church of St Lucy in Bakar keeps its naval Charles VI began to create a
Jurandvor, a short distance from traditions alive thanks to the sizeable port here, at the end of
Baška, is a copy of the Baška prestigious Maritime Academy, a road that went from Karlovac
Tablet (the original is in Zagreb), which was founded in 1849. to the sea.
the oldest document in Croatia
written in Glagolitic script in 1100.
Košljun
Just offshore from Punat, this
small islet is best known for its
Franciscan monastery, where
for centuries the monks have
collected not just sacred objects,
but all manner of valuable and
curious items. Its zoological
collection is noted for its assem-
bly of seashells, and among the
library’s 30,000-odd titles is one
of only three surviving copies of
the atlas of Ptolemy, printed in
Venice in 1511. The Frankopan castle in Bakar, dominating the village
x Crikvenica
Map B2. * 5,800. k Rijeka, 16 km
(10 miles), island of Krk. @ Nike
Veljačića 3, (060) 300 100. n Trg
Stjepana Radića 1c, (051) 241 051.
_ Oily fish week (Jun); Trade fair of
Croatian products (Jul); Town festival
(Aug). ∑ rivieracrikvenica.com
A Roman staging post called Ad

Turres existed here at one time,
with a port for trading in timber.
In 1412 Nikola Frankopan
(whose name derives from the
noble Roman family of the
Frangipani) built a castle here. It The altar in the Church of SS Philip and James, Novi Vinodolski
was later donated to the Pauline
order, who set up a church, c Novi Vinodolski rebuilding the Church of
monastery and school. In the Map B3. * 4,000. k Rijeka, 28 km SS Philip and James (Sv. Filip
16th century a wall and a round (17 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka, i Jakov). He was buried here in
tower were built and, in 1659, 49 km (30 miles). n Ulica kralja 1499. The church, decorated in
the church was enlarged by Tomislava 6, (051) 791 171. the 17th century in the Baroque
adding a nave. The town, now _ Patron saints’ day, Philip style, has a magnificent altar
a popular tourist resort, takes and James (May); Novi Vinodolski from that period. The side altar
its name from the monastery. summer carnival (1st weekend Jul). has a Gothic Virgin Mary from
At the beginning of the ∑ tz-novi-vinodolski.hr the 15th century.
19th century, the Pauline order The 13th-century Frankopan
was dissolved and in 1893 the The Old Town, built on Castle has been restored and
ancient monastery was turned a hill overlooking the is now a museum, with
into the Hotel Kaštel (see p226). Vinodol valley, holds exhibits from the Roman
The town has a long pebble an important place in and medieval periods
beach and is one of the most Croatian history. On and a rich, varied
popular tourist resorts along 6 January 1288, in the collection of traditional
this stretch of coast. Thanks to castle built by the folk costumes.
its position, protected from the Frankopan dukes, the
winds by the Velebit mountains, Vinodol Codex, one of
it enjoys a mild climate with dry the oldest legislative v Senj
summers and warm winters. Croatian texts in the
Map C3. * 8,000.
ancient Glagolitic Costume in the castle k
Rijeka, 52 km (32 miles);
script, was produced. of Novi Vinodolski Island of Krk. @ Obala
The document is now kralja Zvonimira 8, (060)
in the National Library in 394 394. n Stara cesta 2, (053) 881
Zagreb. It was signed by 068. _ Feast of St George (23 Apr).
the representatives of nine ∑ tz-senj.hr
communes, and established
rules for the ownership and The cold wind known as the
use of local land. bora of Senj blows through
In 1988, the 700th anniversary a pass in the Velebit chain of
of the Vinodol Codex, a fountain mountains, making the town
created by the sculptor Dorijan the chilliest place in the
Sokolić was placed in the Adriatic. People have long
central square of Novi. The been aware of it, yet despite
fountain bears the names of this notoriety, Senj has always
the places which participated been inhabited, first by the
in drawing up the laws. Illyrians, then by the Romans
The town is also remembered who first created a port at Senia.
for the stratagem used by This became a bishopric in
Bishop Kristofor to save the 1169 and an important trading
troops defeated by the Turks: port for the transport of
the horses’ shoes were put on timber. After 1000 AD it
backwards so as to foil their was granted to the Templar
pursuers. Having reached the Knights. It then passed to the
Gate of the former Pauline monastery, safety of Vinodol Castle, the Frankopans, and finally came
now a hotel, in Crikvenica bishop gave thanks by under the direct rule of the
The Uskoks
In 1526, shortly before the Battle of Mohács, numbers of Christians from the
hinterland fled to the safer coastal cities to escape the Turks. The refugees were
called “Uskoks” (“the ones who jumped in”) and their main desire was to fight
those who had taken their land; and they carried out a highly successful guerrilla
war. Initially they were organized by Venice around the fortress of Klis, from which
they attacked the Turk-occupied land. In 1537 the Turks conquered Klis. Some
Uskoks went to Primošten, but the main nucleus settled in Senj, under the rule of
the Habsburgs, who encouraged them to procure fast boats in order to plunder
the heavy Venetian ships. When Austria also slowed down operations against the
Turks, the Uskoks took up piracy and started sacking coastal towns. At the end of
the war between Venice and the Ottoman empire in 1617, the emperor was
forced to remove the Uskoks from the coast and they and their families were Relief in the Museum of
transported to the west of Zagreb, to the Žumberak mountains. the Uskoks, Senj
(Leonova kula), dedicated to

Pope Leo X, and the small,
pretty church of St Mary.
Environs
The small village of Jablanac
lies 37 km (23 miles) south of
Senj. This bustling place is a
good starting point for visiting
the Velebit massif.
Jablanac is a well-preserved
Nehaj Castle, dominating the town of Senj town and worth an unhurried
visit. It was a county seat and its
King of Hungary. As defence the Baroque period. It has representatives met in the med-
against the Turks, the tombstones with Renaissance ieval castle. The castle was built
Habsburgs established the reliefs and Baroque works, by the Ban (governor) Stjepan
first station of the Military including an altar decorated Šubić, as was the church and
Frontier (Vojna krajina) here. with four marble statues. its cemetery, both known from
This stronghold had a powerful A short distance from the documents from 1251. The castle
outer wall which is now only square is the Vukasović Palace is now in ruins. Nearby, the port
partly preserved. which houses the Civic of Stinica is a departure point
After the Battle of Mohács in Museum (Gradski muzej Senj), for ferries to the island of Rab.
1526, many Uskoks from Sinj and a museum of local history. The To the east of Jablanac is
Klis came to Senj, and were palace was once the residence the Sjeverni Velebit National
co-opted by the local Austrian of an Uskok captain. Flanking Park (Nacionalni park Sjeverni
governor in the fight against the the roads of the town and in Velebit) where there is an
Turks. Their presence is recorded the Small Square (Mala placa), interesting Botanical Garden
in Nehaj Castle, a fortress built also known as Campuzia, are (Botanički vrt) founded in
on a square plan, constructed in Renaissance buildings such as 1966 on the slopes of Mount
1553–8 by the Uskok captain the Town Hall with its splendid Zavižan at an altitude of
Ivan Lenković on a hill a short loggia. Nearby is the Leon tower 1,576 m (5,169 ft).
distance from the town. It was
positioned so as to sight
approaching ships. The well-laid-
out Museum of the Uskoks is on
the first floor of the fort, and has
an excellent view over the bay.
In the southern part of the
wide bay is the main square,
called Cilnica. Facing the
square is the Frankopan palace,
built in 1340 and altered in the
19th century. There are also
large salt warehouses, and,
further in, the Cathedral of
St Mary (Sv. Marija), built in the
13th century and altered in The picturesque harbour of Jablanac, south of Senj
b Rab windows. In the courtyard

are some Roman and
The island of Rab lies parallel to the Velebit massif, creating medieval remains.
a channel which was much dreaded by sailors because it
R Monastery and Church
forms a tunnel for the cold, dry bora wind which makes this
of St Andrew
part of the coast rocky and barren. The opposite, western Sv. Andrija
side of the island is protected from the wind and the climate Ulica Ivana Rabljanina, Rab.
is mild. Here the landscape is much greener and maquis This small Romanesque church
alternates with woods of pine, oak and holm oak. The Romans is annexed to a Benedictine
knew the island by the name of Arba, or Scadurna, and, after convent founded in 1118. The
its conquest, built a settlement on the site of the present-day bell tower, the oldest in Rab,
is from the following century.
town of Rab. This island is a popular holiday destination with The belfry has trefoil windows.
its sandy beaches, rocky coves and mild climate.
R Cathedral of St Mary
the Great
Rab Town Katedrala Sv. Marija Velika
The main town, Rab, Ulica Ivana Rabljanina, Rab.
which gives its name This splendid Romanesque
to the island, became building was consecrated by
a bishopric in the early Pope Alexander III in 1177. The
Christian period and façade has alternating layers
was inhabited by of pink and white stone and
Slavic people in the above the portal is a sculpted
6th century. After it Deposition by Petar Trogiranin
had been conquered The town of Rab with its four bell towers dating from 1514. The three-
by the Franks, it was aisle interior, divided by
administered by Venice and a the Old Town on the southern columns, has a beautiful
treaty of mutual defence was point of the peninsula were baptismal font made by the
agreed upon which lasted until destroyed, and in the 15th same sculptor in 1497, and a
1000 AD. Rab was at times century a wall was built which polyptych by Paolo Veneziano
under the rule of the Hungarian also enclosed the New Town, (1350) on the altar.
kings until 1409, when it called Varoš. Part of this wall In the presbytery is a
became Venetian territory. is well preserved, particularly splendid altar canopy with
Venice ruled the island the stretch facing the bay of marble columns and on
until 1797. St Euphemia. the main altar, surrounded
The town, famous for its by an ornate wooden choir,
four bell towers which make it P Loggia is a reliquary from the 12th
look like a ship with four masts, Srednja ulica, Rab. century with the remains of
has some lovely Venetian Where the main road, Srednja St Christopher.
architecture. Along the three ulica, widens out, there is a The 13th-century bell tower
main streets are fine aristocratic beautiful Venetian loggia, built stands 70 m (230 ft) away from
buildings with Romanesque in 1506 in Renaissance style, the cathedral. It is the tallest of
doorways, such as the Nimira, and a granary (fondak). To the all the bell towers on the island.
Tudorin, Kukulić, Galzigna and left is the Sea Gate (Morska
Cassio Palaces. The ancient vrata), a tower from the
medieval walls that encircled 14th century. Through the
gate is the town square.
P Prince’s Palace
Knežev dvor
Trg Municipium Arba, Rab. Tel (051)
724 064. Open call for opening times.
The port and the town square
are the heart of Rab, and this is
also where the Prince’s Palace
was built in the 13th century in
the Romanesque style. It was
later enlarged in the Gothic
style and then rebuilt in the
Renaissance style. It has
Sea Gate, one of the ways into the Venetian Gothic windows and The bell tower of the Cathedral of St Mary
town of Rab Renaissance mullioned the Great
R Chapel of St Anthony VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

of Padua
Sv. Antun Practical Information
Ulica ribara, Rab. Road Map B3. * 9,000.
The small church of St Anthony, n Trg Municipium Arba 8, Rab
dating from 1675, is a good town, (051) 724 064. _ musical
example of religious Baroque evenings, Church of the Holy
architecture. Inside is a marble Cross (Jun–Sep); Tournament of
Rab (25–27 Jul). ∑ rab-visit.com
inlaid altar and a 17th-century
painting from the Venetian school. Transport
4 from Rijeka, Stinica, Pag,
R Franciscan Convent of Valbiska (Krk); (051) 724 122.
St Anthony Abbot @ Palit, (060) 306 080.
Sv. Antun Opat
Rab. Tel (051) 724 064. Open call for The altar in the Renaissance Church of
opening times. St Justine in Rab on display are paintings and
The Church and Convent of panels, including a polyptych
St Anthony Abbot stand behind R Convent and Church of by Paolo Veneziano (1350),
the cathedral at the end of the St Justine Gospels and illuminated books
promontory. This convent, built Sv. Justine in Glagolitic script.
for a closed order of nuns, was Gornja ulica, Rab. Tel (051) 724 064.
founded in 1497 by the noble- Open call for opening times. Kampor
woman Magdalena Budrišić. The convent and church were Kampor lies at the end of a long
consecrated in 1578, and were bay (Kamporska Draga) and has
R Church of St Francis intended for nuns from non- preserved its stone houses and
Sv. Frane noble families. The bell tower terraces of olives and vines.
Park Komrčar, Rab. with its onion dome dates from Many holiday houses have
The church dates from 1491 and 1672. The church now houses a sprung up around the village.
stands to the north of the town Museum of Holy Art, with the The Franciscan Convent of St
in Komrčar Park. It is a blend of crucifix of King Koloman from Euphemia, with a small adjacent
Gothic and Renaissance and has 1112, and the reliquary of Romanesque church, is near the
an original façade with three St Christopher (12th century), Church of St Bernard. The church
sculpted shells. protector of the town. Also contains two panels by Barto-
lomeo and Antonio Vivarini, a
Byzantine panel (14th century)
SV. GRGUR and other works. In the cloister
there are various tombs and the
sarcophagus of Magdalena
Budrišić, the noblewoman who
GOLI
founded the convent of
Goli St Anthony Abbot in Rab.
Lopar
Lopar
The village of Lopar is at the
0 kilometres 5 end of a rocky peninsula. It is a
0 miles 5 popular spot thanks to the sandy
beaches fringed by pinewoods
Supetarska Draga and the leisure facilities on offer
Kampor (tennis, football and mini-golf ).
RAB
J
Rab
Barbat na Rabu
Key
Pudarica
Major road DOLIN
Minor road Mišnjak
Polyptych by the Vivarini, Church of
St Bernard, Kampor
For keys to symbols see back flap Spectacular, well-preserved walls of Pula’s amphitheatre
n Plitvice Lakes National Park

Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera
The Plitvice Lakes National Park, set in the heart of Croatia,
was founded in 1949. This area of 300 sq km (115 sq miles),
covered in lakes and forest, has been part of the UNESCO
World Heritage list since 1979. It is particularly known for its
spectacular waterfalls. There are 16 lakes within the park and
visitors can move around by following the paths along the
shores or by using footbridges. Shuttle buses take people
to the starting points of the trails and to the hotels in the
park. The largest lake can be toured by electric boat. There
are no towns or villages in the reserve, only hotels. A hut by the lake shore
Otočac
Ciginovac
Prošćansko
jezero
Okrugljak
Labudovac Stubica
Footbridges
Numerous footbridges and rowing
boats enable visitors to get from one
shore of a lake to another and are a
lovely way to access and explore the Galovac
fir, pine and beech forests.
KEY
Gradinsko
jezero
1 Dense forests alongside the Isola
waters are home to some of the
largest European species of animal,
including wolves, lynxes, foxes,
wild boar, roebucks, wild cats, otters
and badgers. Gliborita
Pr ijeka draga
2 The bird life is extremely varied: Kosa
160 species have been recorded,
including the eagle, marsh harrier,
peregrine falcon, hoopoe, kingfisher,
heron, little owl, and tawny owl.
3 Along the banks of the
River Korana, into which the lakes
drain, are a few shepherds’ huts and Velika
Poljana
several sawmills, which are run on
hydraulic power. The river flows
between steep cliffs in a spectacular
natural landscape. Entrance 2 Zadar
4 The park vehicles, shuttle
buses, take visitors around the area 0 metres 500
on special routes.
0 yards 500
Map C3.
n (053) 751 014, 751 015.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8
7 limited access.
∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr
Flora
The park flora is very varied, from waterlilies on the lakes to forests
of gigantic trees. There is also a rich undergrowth of shrubs, a
source of food for wildlife.
Plitvice
Draga
Matijaševac
Karlovac
Milanovac
Jezero
Kozjak
Gavanovac
Karlovac
Medvedak Entrance 1
Waterfalls
Key It is possible to follow
Major road signposted routes, which
Route for park vehicles
lead to viewpoints for
watching the rushing
Footpath waters as they cascade
Boat route from the lake above.
DALMATIA
Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in
the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of
this Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there
of war, the Romans managed to conquer followed a second flowering of the arts,
the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and and the sculptors, architects, painters,
integrate them into their system. For writers and scholars of this period laid the
over three centuries the region enjoyed foundations for the future development
a period of prosperity which was of Croatian culture, art and literature.
eventually brought to an end by the In late spring, when the Jadranska
arrival of peoples from Asia, including magistrala coast road has yet to be
the Slavs in the 7th century. invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
In 915, after a long period of wars and must be one of the loveliest parts
unrest, the first Croatian kings founded of Europe. From Karlobag the road
a new state, blessed by papal authority. winds along the edge of the Velebit
New public and religious buildings, walls mountain chain and the Dalmatian
and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards
to flourish, and trading with the Italian is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
coast increased. This was a period of Pag and further along are the islands
great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and
the collapse of the Croatian state and its finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long covered in vineyards and maquis
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.
A secluded beach on the island of Mljet

Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnik – the “pearl of the Adriatic”
Exploring Dalmatia
To the north is Zadar, with its exceptional monuments, and
the islands of the Zadar archipelago, the southern part of
which is designated the Kornati National Park. The road travels
on to Šibenik, with its perfectly preserved Old Town centre and
splendid cathedral, and Trogir, an architectural jewel. The ruins
of the Roman town of Salona are just outside the city of Split,
which developed within the Palace of Emperor Diocletian. The
coastal road turns inland to cross the delta of the Neretva and
reaches Ston, a point of access to the peninsula of Pelješac.
Finally, on a rocky spur stands the medieval city of Dubrovnik,
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Karlovac
Senj
Otočac Bell tower of the Cathedral, Zadar
Udbina
Rijeka
Novalja Karlobag Gospić
Pag Ve
Pag
le
PAG bi
t Vaganski Vrh
1757m Gračac
Silba
PAKLENICA
Olib NATIONAL PARK Sučevići
Jasenice
Privlaka Ljubač Obrovac
Posedarje
Molat NIN ZADARSKA
ZA Sestrunj
DA
RK
KNIN
R ZADAR Troglav
PA
Ancona AR Bibinje
Benkovac
Kistanje Biskupija
1913m
C H Ugljan
NATIO RKA
NAL
IP
EL Vrlika
Perućko
A G Pašman
K
Dugi Otok Biograd Jezero

O na Moru DRNIŠ S v
K ila Hrvace
O Skradin
j
RN a
AT Murter ŠIBENSKO-KNINSKA
IN SINJ
Vodice
AT Kornat
Key I O ŠIBENIK
NA Trilj
LP Žirje
KLIS
Motorway AR
Major road
K TROGIR SALONA
PRIMOŠTEN
Minor road MARINA
Ancona Čiovo SPLIT OMIŠ
Motorway under construction
Supetar
Main railway
ŠOLTA
County border
Šolta BRAČ
SP LIT SKO -
Ferry route
Ancona Stari Grad
Summit
Hvar
Hvar
VIS
Getting Around
Pescara Vis
The most comfortable way to visit Dalmatia
is by car, which allows you to stop when and Svetac
Biševo
where you like. Traffic is always heavier during
the summer holiday months. Cities and towns
are not directly connected by railway, but buses
are frequent and run between almost all the Sušac
towns. The main coastal towns and the more
important islands are linked by frequent ferry
connections (see pp278–9). Yachts can be hired
for cruising along the coast (see p258).
D A L M AT I A  93
HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
• ZAGREB
BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
ADRIATIC
SEA
Locator Map
The imposing 15th-century Minčeta Tower in Dubrovnik
Sights at a Glance
1 Zadar pp94–7 q Sinj g Opuzen
2 Zadar Archipelago w Klis h Narona
pp98–9 e Primošten j Neum
3 Kornati National Park r Marina k Pelješac Peninsula
pp100–1 t Trogir pp114–17 l Korčula pp138–40
4 Nin y Salona pp118–19 z Badija
5 Paklenica National u Split pp120–25 x Lastovo
Park i Šolta c Mljet National Park pp142–2
6 Pag pp104–5 o Brač v Dubrovnik pp146–53
7 Krka National Park p Vis pp128–9 b Elaphite Islands
pp106–7 a Hvar pp130–33 n Cavtat
8 Šibenik pp108–11 s Omiš m Konavle
9 Drniš d Makarska
0 Knin f Gradac
Livno
Imotski
Mostar
Cista Provo
Bio
ko
Brač vo
Sumartin MAKARSKA
Rocky offshore islands seen from Velebit
D ALMATIN S K A Vrgorac
Zaostrog
Živogošće
NARONA
GRADAC
Sućuraj
Metković 0 kilometres 30
HVAR Ploče
Trpanj OPUZEN 0 miles 30
Orebić
Korčula Korčula
NEUM
Blato PELJEŠAC
BADIJA PENINSULA
Vela
Luka KORČULA Ston Slano
DU B R OVA Č K O-NER ET VA N S K A Trsteno
Mljet DUBROVNIK
LASTOVO MLJET ELAPHITE
NATIONAL PARK ISLANDS CAVTAT
Lastovo
KON Podgorica
Bari AVLE
Molunat

1 Zadar
Originally Illyrians inhabited this narrow peninsula,
but its present layout dates back to Roman rule, when
the straight roads and forum were built. It became an
important municipium, and a port for the trading of timber
and wine. In the Middle Ages it was the main base for the
Byzantine fleet. Venice and the king of Hungary fought
over Zadar in the 12th–13th centuries but in 1409, King
Ladislaus of Hungary sold his Dalmatian islands and cities
to Venice for 100,000 ducats. Zadar became Zara and
enjoyed a spell of prosperity; churches and palaces were
built. After World War I, Zadar was ceded to Italy by the
Treaty of Rapallo, but many Italians left after the forming
of Yugoslavia in 1947. Zadar was repeatedly bombed Roman arch forming the Sea Gate
during World War II and suffered considerable damage.
P Sea Gate
Vrata sv. Krševana
R Church of St Simeon This complex construction is the
Sv. Šime result of rebuilding work carried
Trg Petra Zoranića 7. Tel (023) 211 out by Michele Sanmicheli
705. Open 8:30am–noon Mon–Sat. in 1573 on a Roman arch
Originally constructed in dedicated to the Sergi family.
Romanesque style, the church On the seaward side is the lion
was rebuilt after 1632 to house of St Mark and a memorial stone
the remains of the saint, which recalling the Battle of Lepanto
are kept in a silver reliquary. (1571). On the inner side of the
This impressive work, nearly 2m gate is a stone commemorating
(6 ft) long, was made between Pope Alexander III’s visit in 1177.
1377 and 1380 by Francesco da
Milano and bears reliefs showing R Church of St Chrysogonus
scenes of St Simeon’s life. Sv. Krševan
The medieval tower, Bablja Kula, part of Poljana pape Aleksandra III.
the ancient wall R Museum of Ancient Glass Closed for restoration.
Muzej antičkog stakla Prior to AD 1000 a church
P Land Gate and Walls Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1. and monastery were built by
Kopnena vrata Tel (023) 363 831. Open summer: Benedictines on the site of
The Land Gate was built in 1543 9am–9pm daily; winter: 9am–4pm the Roman market. While the
by the great Veronese architect Mon–Fri. & ∑ mas-zadar.hr church, rebuilt in 1175, has
Michele Sanmicheli as the Housed in the restored survived with few alterations,
entrance to the city. The gate Cosmacendi Palace, this the monastery was destroyed
has a large central aperture and museum displays a large in World War II. At the height of
two smaller openings at the number of ancient Roman the monastery’s splendour it
sides, divided by four white glass objects found on possessed a rich library and a
stone pilasters supporting four archaeological sites in Zadar scriptorium, famous for its
half-columns. and its surroundings. transcribed and illuminated
Above the main gate is a relief works. The three-aisle church,
of St Chrysogonus on horseback P People’s Square
and the lion of St Mark, symbol Narodni trg
of Venetian rule. Beyond the The Town Hall, which was built
gate are a few remains of the in 1934, faces the square, as
ancient walls, the former does the Renaissance City
Venetian arsenal, and Liberation Loggia (Gradska loža) built by
Square (Zoranićev trg or Trg Michele Sanmicheli in 1565 as
Petra Zoranića) with a Roman the city courts. It is now used
column in the centre. for exhibitions.
On one side of the square Nearby, the 16th-century
stands the medieval tower of Town Guard Palace houses
Bablja kula. At the base are five the Ethnographic Museum,
fountains (Trg pet bunara), with collections of costumes
which once supplied water and objects from the
to the city of Zadar. entire county. Church of St Chrysogonus
ZADAR  95
divided by columns (salvaged VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

from a previous building),
has a simple Romanesque Practical Information
appearance, except for the Map C4. * 92,000. n City: IlIje
Baroque main altar with statues Smiljanića 5, (023) 212 222; Mihe
of Zadar’s four patron saints: Klaića 1, (023) 316 166. Regional:
Chrysogonus, Zoilus, Simeon Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, (023)
and Anastasia. The apse is the 315 316. _ Musical evenings
at St Donat (Jul & Aug), Summer
best-preserved part, with some
theatre. ∑ visitzadar.net
13th-century frescoes and a
Romanesque crucifix on Transport
the altar. k Zemunik 8 km (5 miles),
(023) 205 800. £ (023) 212 555.
E Archaeological Museum @ A Starčevića 6, (060) 305 305.
Arheološki muzej Renaissance façade of the Church of 4 Jadrolinija: (023) 254 800.
Trg opatice Čike 1. Tel (023) 250 516. St Mary
Open Jan–Mar: 9am–2pm Mon–Sat;
Apr, May & Oct: 9am–3pm Mon–Sat; R Church of St Mary and The church, built in 1066, has
Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily; Nov & Dec: Museum of Sacred Art undergone various alterations
9am–2pm Mon–Sat. Sv. Marija i Zlato i srebro Zadra and now has a Renaissance
& 8 by appt. = Trg opatice Čike 1. Tel (023) façade. The three-aisle
This museum is housed in a 250 496. Open summer: interior has a large
building near the old Roman 10am–1pm, 6–8pm Mon– women’s gallery; the
Forum. Its collection contains Sat, 10am–noon Sun; winter: stuccowork is from 1744.
objects that date from pre- 10am–12.30pm, 5–6.30pm The former monastery
Mon–Sat. & 8 ^ =
history all the way to recent next door is now the
times, and that come from the On one side of the Museum of Sacred Art:
entire Zadar area and the square called Poljana Sculpture, Museum on the ground floor are
islands. Of particular interest is pape Ivana Pavla II of Sacred Art gold pieces; on the
glass from the Roman period, stands a tall, Romanesque bell upper floor are paintings and
and the early Christian and tower, built for King Koloman in statues, including a fine polyptych
medieval liturgical objects. 1105, and the Church of St Mary. by Vittore Carpaccio (1487).
Zadar Town Centre

1 Land Gate and Walls
2 Church of St Simeon LA
BA
O
3 Museum of Ancient Glass SK
A
IST
R AR
4 People’s Square IS
TA SK
A
TRG TRI OB
5 Sea Gate Sea Organ & BUNARA
AL
A
Greeting to the Sun
6 Church of St Chrysogonus AN
A
M Sea Gate
ŠI
7 Archaeological Museum RA
RO
Franciscan Church of KA
KA
E
Monastery St Elijah AT Cathedral
8 Church of St Mary and M of
III
St Anastasia RA
Museum of Sacred Art A ND Church of
Church of KS St Chrysogonus
9 Forum
E
O
AL
BA
St Donat
LA
Archaeological
0 Church of St Donat p97 Foot-
KR
Museum bridge
AL
FORUM
q Cathedral of St Anastasia Market
JA
Church of St Mary RA
BO
w Sea Organ and Greeting and Museum SA ČA
of Sacred Art G PEOPLE’S VI
KO
EL
to the Sun NS SQUARE KO

IZ
I RA
AT
AB
BA
LIB
M
ET
AL JA
UR
R
E
D JU
NS
Museum of
KO
Loggia
KA
TR
Ancient Glass
OM
OB
PE
Church of
Za
AN
AL
TR
St Michael
A
IČ
da
ĆA
ŠP
Church of
KR
AI
IR
r
KL
E
St Simeon O B A
EŠ
BR
LA
Ch
ST
K
T O M IS R A L J A
IM
US
OM
L AVA
IN
IRA
an
OR
Captain’s
IC
Tower
A
ne
IV
Land Gate TRG PET Train Station

l
and Walls BUNARA 1 km (0.6 miles)

Bus Station
1 km (0.6 miles)
Vladimir
Nazor Park
0 metres 300
0 yards 300

P Forum R Cathedral of St Anastasia

The main square of the ancient Katedrala sv. Stošije
Roman city of Jadera was built Forum. Tel (023) 251 708.
between the 1st century BC Open 8am–noon, 5–7pm daily.
and the 3rd century. The forum, The magnificent Cathedral of
90 m (295 ft) long and 45 m St Anastasia also stands on
(147 ft) wide, was bordered on the site of the Forum. It was
three sides by porticoes with founded by the Byzantines in
marble columns. In the present the 9th century and rebuilt in
square, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla the Romanesque style in the
II, are the foundations of public 12–13th centuries. It has a
buildings, including a meeting rectangular ground-plan with
hall, some of the original paving, a large semicircular apse. The
several tabernae (rectangular- harmonious façade with three
shaped trading areas) and a doors, completed in 1324, is
monumental pillar, used in divided in half horizontally with
the Middle Ages as a “pillar the upper part characterized by The right-hand altar inside the Cathedral
of shame”. arches and columns and two of St Anastasia
splendid rose windows. The
main window is Romanesque right-hand nave is an imposing
and the other is Gothic. Baroque altar dedicated to the
The three-aisle interior is Holy Sacrament; just beyond is
divided by two rows of columns the hexagonal baptistry.
and pilasters which support the
high arcades. At the sides of the P Sea Organ and Greeting
raised presbytery are engraved to the Sun
wooden choir stalls, the work of Designed by architect Nikola
the Venetian Matteo Moronzoni Basic, this musical instrument
(early 15th century). The ciborium is built into the quayside. Under
with four Corinthian columns is white stone steps are a set of
decorated with different motifs pipes which produce musical
(1332). Underneath is a small chords naturally as waves push
sarcophagus containing the air up through the pipes. Next
remains of St Anastasia, dating to it is another installation by
from the 9th century. the same architect called
The altars are mostly Baroque; Greeting to the Sun, consisting
Romanesque façade of the Cathedral on one there is a lovely painting of 300 glass plates that produce
of St Anastasia by Palma il Giovane. In the interesting light effects.
Plan of the Cathedral of St Anastasia
Key
1 Altar of the Holy Sacrament 6 Main altar and ciborium
2 Baptistry 7 Bishop’s chair
3 Roman pilaster 8 Chapel of St Anastasia
0 metres 15
4 Sacristy 9 Souls of Purgatory altar
5 Choir stalls 0 Bell tower 0 yards 15
ZADAR  97
Zadar: Church of St Donat VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sv. Donat Practical Information
Forum. n (023) 250 516.
The Church of the Holy Trinity, which later took the name Open Apr, May & Oct: 9am–5pm
of its founder Bishop Donat, is one of the finest examples of daily; Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily;
Byzantine architecture in Dalmatia. It was built in the early Nov–Mar: by appt. &
9th century on the paving stones of the former Roman Forum
and has a circular ground-plan with three circular apses.
Inside is a women’s gallery which goes all the way around the
church and creates an upper storey. St Donat has not been
used as a church since 1797, but because of the good
acoustics, concerts are often held here.
Dome
The cylindrical, conical
dome rises in the centre
of the church to a height
of 27 m (88 ft).
Exterior
The church is built of honey-
coloured Dalmatian stone, much
of which came from the old
Roman Forum.
Each of the three

apses has blind
arches. At one time
the altar was situated
in the central apse.
The Women’s Gallery The internal walls are

The interior of the church has completely bare. Probably the
a matroneum, or women’s original decorations, frescoes
gallery, supported by six or mosaics, have been lost.
pilasters and two Roman Roman Fragments
columns which border the Stones from the Roman Forum were used for
circular nave and divide the paving; other Roman material is visible in
the structure into two floors. the walls, entrance and gallery.
2 Zadar Archipelago Venetian fleet. One side ends

in a sheer cliff and the other in
The Zadar Archipelago is made up of more than 300 islands thick pine woods. This area is
surrounded by crystal-clear waters. The larger islands being reforested after a
are covered in Mediterranean scrub and olive trees. The disastrous fire in 1995. The
southern part of the island has
archipelago is what remains of a mountain chain which once
been designated the Telašćica
ran parallel to the Velebit mountains, but which is now almost Nature Park (see p100).
submerged. Only about a dozen of the islands are inhabited,
and the small communities live by fishing, farming and rearing Ugljan
animals. There are a few hotels on the larger islands closer to This lush, green island is 22 km
Zadar, and private accommodation can be found on all the (13 miles) long and covers an
area of 50 sq km (19 sq miles).
others. Daily ferry services link Zadar with the main islands. It has a population of 7,600 and
the small villages lie along the
eastern coast of the island. In
desolate but beaches and bays the main village, Ugljan, is
punctuate the eastern coast. the Franciscan monastery of
Proximity to Zadar means St Jerome, built in the 15th
that since Roman times it has century. It has a pretty cloister
been a popular place for the and the library contains
city nobles to build holiday numerous works written in
villas. In the Renaissance period Glagolitic script.
more summer residences were A more newly built village
built here, particularly in Sali. is Preko, where the wealthier
This is the largest town and citizens of Zadar own villas.
port on the island and there are There are also rooms in private
some houses in the flamboyant houses available for renting.
Gothic style. The Renaissance The village is dominated by
Church of St Mary has some the large Venetian fortress of
Dugi Otok, the largest island in the paintings from the same St Michael which stands on a
Zadar archipelago period by Juraj Čulinović. hill 265 m (869 ft) high. A bridge
The fishing village of links the island to Pašman.
Dugi Otok Božava, at the island’s
Covering an area of 124 sq km northernmost point,
(48 sq miles), this is the largest is also a popular
island in the archipelago. The yacht marina. It
inhabitants live in about ten has a small church,
villages. Fishing and farming dedicated to
takes place in the northern part St Nicholas, which
of the island and on the flatter dates from the 10th
areas of the island, while the century. Inside the
southern, hillier terrain is given church a sculpture
over to sheep farming. The depicts Arab saints.
western coast is steep and The long bay of
Telašćica, to the
south, is a natural
harbour and
OLIB was once
used by the View from the fortress of St Michael, Preko
SESTRUNJE
SILBA
MOLAT
IST Sestrunj
Zapuntel Brgulje Molat
ŠKARDA Ist
PREMUDA
J
Premuda Božava Dragove
Veli Rat
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10 DUGI OTOK
Premuda VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This island covers an area of
9 sq km (3 sq miles) and has Practical Information
fewer than 100 inhabitants, all Map B–C4. n Zadar:
of whom live in the village of Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, (023)
Premuda. It is the most isolated 315 316; Dugi Otok: Obala P.
of the islands in the archipelago. Lorinija bb, Sali, (023) 377 094;
There are no hotels but visitors Ugljan: Šimuna Kožičića Benje
17, Ugljan, (023) 288 011.
can find rooms in private houses.
∑ ugljan.hr ∑ zadar.hr
In Italy, the island is remem- ∑ dugiotok.hr
bered for a naval battle
between Italy and Austria Transport
which took place on 10 June 4 Harbour master’s office: (023)
1918 during World War I. 254 888; Jadrolinija: (023) 254 800.
The island has beautiful
Monastery of SS. Cosmas and Damian beaches and thick pine woods,
in Pašman and as there are no private cars Olib
it is also very peaceful. There About 700 people live here
Pašman are several weekly connections in the village of Olib, where
This wild, unspoilt island has a to Zadar. buildings include several
population of 3,500, who live 16th-century houses and
in villages on the coast facing Molat a tower. The church of St
the mainland. There are fewer The three villages on Molat Anastasia is from the same
tourists than on Ugljan. The support several hundred period and was once part of a
western side is given over to people, who depend on fishing monastery. In the parsonage are
vineyards, while the eastern part and farming. There are two manuscripts and sacred books
has thick maquis right down to ports: Zapuntel, the main in Glagolitic script, as well as
the coastline, where there are ferry port, and Brgulje, which many stone remains, which
also some pebble beaches. is used when the main port confirm the presence of a
South of Pašman, a fishing is inaccessible. community here in Roman
village and the main centre For centuries the island times. The sea is delightful, and
on the island, is Tkon, an belonged to Venice, which rocky cliffs alternate with coves
embarkation point for ferries. On fostered the establishment of and sandy beaches. Rooms can
Mount Čokovac, north of Tkon, a community of monks and be found in private houses.
is the Benedictine Monastery local people, who set about
of SS. Cosmas and Damian (Sv. re-establishing the woods
Kuzma i Damjan). Built in 1125, which had disappeared with
it became a centre of Glagolitic over-exploitation. An intense
culture and has a well-stocked reforestation programme has
library with Glagolitic texts. In been under way to aid with this.
the 15th century the church The church of St Andrew is all
and monastery were rebuilt in that remains of the monastery.
the Gothic style when they There are no hotels on the
were taken over by the island but accommodation can
Franciscan order. The church be found in private houses in
(14th–15th century) has some Molat, Zapuntel and Brgulje.
good sculptures, including a There are many coves along
painted crucifix. the low, jagged coastline. Ruins in the peaceful village of Olib
Kukljica Pašman
Ugljan Neviđane Tkon
Preko Banj
J
UGLJAN PAŠMAN
IŽ Mali
Veli Iž
Key
Minor road
Sali Path

3 Kornati National Park shepherds of Murter cut down

the trees and burned the scrub
Nacionalni park Kornati in order to grow grass for their
In 1980 part of the Zadar Archipelago was declared a national livestock, which were left here
to graze freely from spring to
park. The name Kornati derives from the name of the main
autumn. Dry-stone walls were
island in the group, Kornat. The park was set up to protect the built between the plots of land
waters so that marine life might flourish. It measures 36 km to form pens for the animals.
(22 miles) in length and 6 km (4 miles) wide and is made up On some of the islands near
of 89 islands of white stone. Despite there not being any perm the coast are small cottages with
anent inhabitants, and vegetation appearing to be sparse, stables and an outdoor hearth.
Many also have a small jetty.
flora and fauna are rich; there are some 19,000 olive trees in The Kornati Islands have
the park area. The islands are surrounded by clear blue sea, become a popular destination
with jagged coastlines, hidden coves and underwater caves. for scuba divers and sailors. The
marine life is varied with around
350 plant species and 300
animals. Fishing is prohibited
throughout the entire Kornati
National Park.
Besides dozens of rocky
outcrops, the islands of Kornat,
Levrnaka, Piškera, Lavsa, Kasela
and Mana make up the park.
West of Levrnaka lies the island
of Mala Proversa, which, with
the southern part of Dugi
Otok (see p98), forms another
One of the few houses on the Kornati Islands protected area, the Telašćica
Nature Park. The best way to
Exploring Kornati vegetation, were used as a base visit is by sailing boat, and there
National Park for the Venetian fleet. At present are organized day trips from
The Kornati Islands were the the Kornati Islands belong to the Murter, Zadar, Biograd, Vodice,
peaks of a mountain chain inhabitants of Murter, to the east, Primošten and Rogoznica.
about 20,000 years ago. When who bought them around the
this area was part of the Roman end of the 19th century to use
empire, the main islands were as grazing for sheep and goats.
holiday resorts, popular with The bare and arid islands are
the prosperous inhabitants of characterized by steep cliffs,
Zadar. Beautiful Roman villas stony ground and sinkholes
with mosaic floors as well as typical of a karst (limestone)
fishponds and baths were built. landscape. Sheep farming has
During the long period under impoverished the flora of these
Venetian rule the islands, which islands. In fact, the vegetation
were then covered with rich disappeared when the
DUGI OTOK
Sali The Kornati Islands
R SA
O VE
PR
A
AL SVRŠATA
KORNAT
M
TELAŠĆICA KATINA
Lučica
Vrulje
LEVRNAKA
MANA
PIŠKERA
Key
Path 0 kilometres 10
Borders of the park 0 miles 10
Map C4.
n (022) 435 740. &
∑ np-kornati.hr
Transport
4 from Biograd, Murter,
Primošten, Rogoznica, Vodice,
Zadar. (Organized trips only.)
and a tower for the tax collector.

The houses and tower are now
almost all in ruins. However, the
Olive trees on the slopes of Statival Bay, on the island of Kornat church from 1560 is still standing.
Kornat two peaks, Veli Vrh and Svirac, Svršata

The island of Kornat is the largest which, at 117 m ( 380 ft) and 94 On the small island of Svršata
island in the park. There is a small m (310 ft) respectively, afford there are two walls that go
medieval church dedicated to stunning views of almost the down to the sea and continue
the Virgin Mary here. There is entire Kornati archipelago. Also into the water, where they join
also a look-out tower with the on Levrnaka is Lojena, the only up with another wall. It is
Venetian name of Toreta dating sandy beach of the Kornati park, thought that this square tank
from the 6th century, an example located in a lovely sheltered bay. was a Roman construction for
of Byzantine military architecture. keeping fish fresh.
Near the old village of Vrulje, the Lavsa
main village in the archipelago, This island with its pretty bays Mana
is Vela Ploča, where there is a and coves is a popular tourist The island of Mana is famous for
spectacular chalk cliff leaning at destination. The ruins of a partly its semicircular cliffs. Spray from
a 40-degree angle over the sea, submerged wall are all that remain the waves breaking on the cliffs
measuring 200 m (656 ft) long of an ancient Roman salt works. can reach up to a height of
and 150 m (492 ft) high. 40 m (131 ft). On top of the cliffs
Piškera are the ruins of a Greek-style
Levrnaka There are also traces of Roman fishing village, built for the film
The island of Levrnaka is one of presence in Piškera. Once there The Raging Sea in 1961.
the largest and highest islands was a village here with about
of Kornati National Park, with 50 houses, a warehouse for fish
The Kornati Islands
by Boat
The archipelago of the Kornati
Islands is a real paradise for
sailors. These are beautiful
islands where the only sounds
are those of the sea and the
wind. There is only one small
port, Piškera, which is open
from Easter (March or April) to
October; electricity and fresh
water are rationed. The natural
beauty of the area makes
A typical island of white rock, bare of vegetation sailing here unforgettable.
SMOKVICA
J
LAVSA
KURBA VELA
Kornati National Park, a paradise

for sailing

4 Nin
Map C4. * 1,500. k Zadar, 24 km
(15 miles). £ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles).
@ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles). n Trg
braće Radić 3, (023) 264 280. ∑ nin.hr
The ancient core of Nin lies in

a natural lagoon, a sheltered
position that made it an attract-
ive choice for settlement. One
of its oldest sources of income
was salt-harvesting, and today The small Romanesque Church of St Mary in Ljubač, near Nin
its sandy beaches and warm,
shallow waters for bathing make use of the Croatian language of Princes Višeslav and Branimir,
it a popular holiday destination. in liturgy. The statue is said to now in the archaeological
Nin’s many archaeological grant wishes to those who rub museum in Zadar. The church
sites have enabled the town’s its big toe. Also inside the walls is a fine example of primitive
past to be traced from prehistory is the 12th- century Church of Croatian art.
through the Liburnian, Roman St Ambrose (Sv. Ambroz), built Ljubač is 13 km (8 miles)
and early Christian times to its in the Romanesque style with northeast of Nin and the site
period of greatest glory, in the Gothic additions. of some ruins: the wall, central
9th–12th centuries, when it was In Kraljevac Square is the buildings and towers of the
both a bishopric and royal small but interesting Museum medieval Castrum Jubae, built
Croatian town. Nin’s finest of Nin Antiquities. by the Templar Knights. It fell
monuments date from this time. into ruin after the order was
Within the town walls is the R Church of the Holy Cross, of dissolved. Still standing is the
9th-century Church of the Holy St Anselm and of St Ambrose 12th-century Romanesque
Cross (Sv. Križ), a fine example of Open daily (St Anselm & St Ambrose Church of St Marcela, noted for
pre-Romanesque churches in for Mass only). its three semicircular apses. Near
typical Croatian style (see p26). E Museum of Nin Antiquities the village is the small church of
The church’s harmony and Trg Kraljevac 8. Tel (023) 264 160. St John from the Middle Ages.
beauty encapsulate the spirit- Open May: 9am–2pm Mon–Sat; Jun–
uality of the era. Its windows are mid-Jul & mid-Aug–Sep: 9am–9pm R Church of St Nicholas
positioned to act as a kind of daily; mid-Jul–mid-Aug: 9am–10pm Open St Nicholas’ Day and St Mark’s
calendar by which, according daily; Oct–Apr: 9am–2pm by appt. Day only.
to the sun’s rays, the exact ∑ amzd.hr
date of the equinox and
solstice can be determined. Environs
Nearby is the former A short way southwest of
Cathedral of St Anselm Nin stands the Church
(Sv. Anselm), where the of St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola)
kings of Croatia were in Prahulje. This unusual
crowned. The first cathedral building, constructed on
in Croatia, it has a rich an Illyrian tumulus, has a
treasury with silver dome with an octagonal
reliquaries from the 9th watch tower from the
to 15th centuries. Near 12th century, added
the church is a statue Statue of Gregory of during the Turkish
by Ivan Meštrović of Nin, by Ivan Meštrović invasion. The church
Bishop Gregory of Nin, is built on a trefoil plan
promoter and defender of the and once held inscriptions and Church of St Nicholas in Prahulje, not far
Glagolitic script that enabled the tombs of members of the court from Nin
A Land of Salt Works

Salt trading was a very lucrative business in the Middle Ages. Three
areas were suitable for its production in the upper Adriatic: the
mouth of the River Dragonja, today the border between Slovenia and
Croatia, the bay of Pag, and the lowlands around Nin. The salt works
of Pag, of Roman origin, which were protected by two ranges of hills,
were the largest and most profitable, and were once owned by Nin.
The salt works on Pag, of Roman origin, The possession of these salt flats, still profitable today, has been the
still in use today cause of various wars through history.
5 Paklenica
National Park
Nacionalni park Paklenica
Map C4. n Starigrad Paklenica, (023)
369 202, 369 155. Open Apr–Oct:
6am–8:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:
7am–3pm daily. & ∑ paklenica.hr
Situated in the imposing

Velebit massif, Paklenica
National Park was founded
in 1949. The entrance is in
Starigrad Paklenica – look
out for a road sign on the
Magistrala coastal road (E65). Rugged landscape of Paklenica National Park
The park covers an area of
95 sq km (41 sq miles), and is climbers. High up, majestic with the aim of protecting
formed by two gorges, Velika birds of prey make their nests, this wild environment, with
Paklenica (Big Paklenica) and in an ideal habitat for breeding. its 2,000 plant species and
Mala Paklenica (Small Paklenica), Golden eagles, short-toed numerous colonies of large
which cut into the limestone eagles and especially peregrine birds of prey. The kukovi –
mountains. The gorges were falcons can be seen here. In strange, impressive rock
eroded by two rivers and parts the forests there are bears, wild formations sculpted by wind
of the canyon walls are more boar, foxes, roebucks and hares. and water – are also protected.
than 400 m (1,312 ft) high. A path in the valley penetrates Hiking and mountain biking
Deep in the cliffs of Velika far into the are other popular activities in
Paklenica Canyon, there is an interior of the the park and in summer visitors
extensive system of underground park to a cliff can stay overnight in the
tunnels built by the Yugoslav edge where there is a Mountain Hut, located
army in the 20th century. The magnificent view of the on the banks of
tunnels are presently being reno- wooded Vaganski Vrh Velika Paklenica
vated as the park administration mountain, the highest creek, or in
intend to transform them into a in the Velebit chain. Griffon vulture, one of the the villages of
multi-purpose visitor centre. The Velebit mountain many birds of prey in the park Ramići and Parići.
The rock faces are pierced chain is nearly 150 km A good camp
by numerous caves, but they (93 miles) long. The terrain site is also situated next to a
are not easily accessible. Only is karst (limestone) with many pebble beach. Along the creek
the Manita cave can be visited, sink holes and plateaux sepa- there are 15 disused water
accompanied by a guide. rated by deep fissures. In 1978 mills, still in good condition,
The bare rock faces of Velika UNESCO listed Velebit as a which can be visited during
Paklenica are popular with rock biological reserve for humanity the summer.
One of the paths leading into Paklenica National Park

6 Pag
The island of Pag is 68 km (42 miles) long and has two
mountain chains running parallel to the coast: at the southern
end cliffs frame a deep bay with numerous inlets. The island
was inhabited in the Neolithic Age, and was occupied by the
Liburnians in around 1200 BC. When Dalmatia was conquered
by Publius Cornelius Scipio in the 1st century AD, the Romans
built the town of Cissa and the fortified port of Navalia here.
In the Imperial period, villas were built and some mosaic
floors and an aqueduct still survive. The Slavs settled in Pag
in the 6th century and became sheep farmers. After 1000 AD
Zadar and Rab fought over the island to gain control of the Sheep grazing on Pag
salt pans (see p102). When Cissa was destroyed by the
inhabitants of Zadar, the islanders chose a new location for a covered in maquis, olive groves
town, Stari Pag, which was fortified by the Venetians in 1192. and aromatic herbs, particularly
sage. As well as the production
of olive oil and a distinctive wine
called Žutica, sheep farming is
one of the main occupations on
the island. Pag is famous for its
sheep’s cheese (paški sir), which
has a distinctive taste thanks to
the aromatic herbs in the
grazing. The cheeses are coated
with olive oil, and undergo
lengthy maturation.
Pag Town
The small main island town
occupies a sheltered bay facing
The dry, barren east-facing coast, swept by the bora wind the mainland. It was granted the
status of a free town by King Bela
Exploring Pag colour, is exposed to the bora IV in 1244, but rivalry with Zadar
The island, connected by a wind and bears little vegetation. brought about its destruction.
bridge to the Magistrala coast The typical dry-stone walls were The walls, the castle, a monastery
road (E65) at its eastern tip, near built to protect the land from the and the Church of St Mary in the
Miškovići, is dry and barren, with wind and to separate the flocks Old Town are in ruins. In 1409,
only a few areas cultivated of sheep belonging to different Pag came definitively under the
with vines and olive trees. The farmers. The southwest coast is a rule of Venice.
coastline facing the mainland, little flatter with some small In 1443 the Venetian rulers,
rocky and jagged and white in beaches. Here the land is with the assistance of local
Magis
trala
coast
road
Tovarnele Kovači
Žigljen
Karlobag
Stara Novalja
PAG Metajna
Novalja
Pag
Gorica
Mandre
Košljun
Key ŠKRDA
Major road MAUN
0 kilometres 5
Minor road
Scenic route 0 miles 5

Lace, Symbol of the Traditions of Pag
Map C4. * 8,400. n Pag: Od
Pag is renowned for its clean waters and its delicious špitala 2, (023) 611 286; Novalja:
sheep’s cheese, but it is also well-known for its lace. For Trg Briščić 1, (053) 661 404;
centuries this lace has been created by the patient hands Karlobag: Trg dr. Tuđmana 2, (053)
of the women of the island who, in warm weather, sit 694 251. _ Lace exhibition
by their doorsteps intent on creating this intricate lace. (summer); Carnival of Pag (Feb &
Typical Made using a special stitch, the lace is used to decorate last weekend in Jul).
pag lace blouses, bedlinen, altar cloths and table centrepieces. ∑ tzgpag.hr
Some decades ago a school was established here to train ∑ tz-novalja.hr
new lacemakers. A collection of antique lace was left to the school ∑ tz-karlobag.hr
by former lacemakers and the examples are used as models. Lace Transport
is sold here and some of the rooms are set up as a museum. 4 Prizna-Žigljen, Pag.
The high walls with Novalja

eight towers and four Located at the beginning of the
gates were demol- narrow peninsula of Lun, Novalja is
ished at the end of the second town on the island. It
the 19th century, but makes its living entirely from tour-
some traces (a gate ism, thanks to its beach. In the
and two bastions) centre of the town are the remains
still remain. The of an early Christian basilica and a
15th-century Duke’s pre-Romanesque church dating
Palace (Kneževa from the 9th–10th centuries.
Palača), which has A ferry service connects the
Skrivanat Tower in the Old Town, Pag been altered, and the island to the mainland, running
unfinished Bishop’s from Novalja to Prizna.
nobles, entrusted the design Palace by Juraj Dalmatinac face
of a new town to the famous the main square. Environs
architect Juraj Dalmatinac A monument to Dalmatinac Boat excursions to Pag leave
(Giorgio Orsini). It took several by Ivan Meštrović and the from Karlobag on the mainland.
decades to build what is now Church of St Mary of the Karlobag lies in a pretty bay and
the present-day Pag. Assumption (1443–1448) stand takes its name from the fortress
Venetian rule brought a long in the same square. The church that the Archduke of Austria,
period of peace and prosperity, is a blend of Romanesque Charles of Habsburg, built in
bolstered by the income from and Gothic, with three aisles 1579 on the site of a village
the productive salt works. divided by white stone columns destroyed by the Turks.
Between the 15th and 18th with carved capitals. The façade The fortress lost its importance
centuries, important public has a rose window and there after the Turkish threat had passed
buildings and a parish church, is a lunette above the door. and it was eventually abandoned.
locally called the cathedral, Numerous precious works of Its attractive stones were then
were built. art are preserved here, including salvaged and used to build the
The town has preserved its a wooden 12th-century crucifix, houses in the village. Still visible
original structure with two a Virgin of the Rosary by Giovanni are some of the massive walls
main roads intersecting in the Battista Pittoni, an organ, and a and a monastery, which has a
main square, and minor roads treasury. famous library and a church.
running parallel.
Kraljevica
Zadar
Kraljevica
Dinjiška Zadar
Vlašići
Povljana
The harsh landscape, characteristic of the island of Pag

7 Krka National Park

Nacionalni park Krka
The park covers an area of 109 sq km
(42 sq miles) and was established in 1985 to
protect the middle and lower stretches of the
River Krka, which flow into the bay of Šibenik.
The source of the river is near Knin, and the
river begins its journey of 75 km (47 miles)
inside a canyon on the limestone plateau
behind Šibenik. It finally spills over into the
Monastery of Visovac
spectacular Roški slap and Skradinski buk
In the middle of the lake is the monastery of Visovac.
waterfalls, forming a series of lakes and rapids It was founded by Franciscans in 1445 who were
surrounded by vegetation. The bird life in the joined by Franciscans from Bosnia in 1576. They
park is very varied. brought books, illuminated manuscripts and sacred
vestments with them.
Skradin
Once a settlement of Ðevrske
Illyrian and Liburnian
tribes, then a Roman town,
Ðevrske
Skradin was a bishop’s see
from the 6th century. It is
one of the main access
Smrdelje
points to the park; boats
go upriver from here to
the waterfalls.
Ićevo
Entrance 2 Bribirske
Mostine
Bribirske
Mostine
KEY Rupe
Bratiškovci
1 The lower basin becomes a
pool of emerald-green water in the
summer and is an attractive place
to sunbathe or picnic.
2 Around the lake families of
egrets and night herons can be Prukljan
seen perched on the branches of Visovačko
Jezero
the willows or hidden among the Dubravice •
reeds. About 200 species of bird
have been counted here.
Prukljansko
3 Krka monastery was first Jezero
mentioned in 1402. Skradin
4 Lake Visovac is at the heart of Raslina

the park. After the waterfalls, the river
flows through a narrow valley and
then widens to form the lake. Some
stretches of the banks are steep and .
others hilly with oak woods. Lozovac
5 Skradinski buk is an impressive
waterfall that cascades from a height Šibenik
of 45 m (147 ft) down 17 steps over
a distance of 800 m (2,624 ft). Some
Entrance 1
of the park paths, sprayed by the Šibenik
falls, pass next to what is one
of the most spectacular natural 0 kilometres 5
displays in Croatia.
0 miles 5
Map C–D4.
Park: n Trg Ivana Pavla II br 5,
Šibenik, (022) 201 777.
Open summer: 8am–7pm;
winter: 9am–4pm (Apr, May,
Oct, Nov: 8am–6pm). &
Roški slap Monastery of Visovac: can be
Here the river widens and deepens within the forest before visited on organized boat trips
finally cascading from between the trees, producing waterfalls from Skradinski buk.
of over 25 m (82 ft). ∑ np-krka.hr
Gračac
.
Brljansko .
. Jezero
.
Knin
Kistanje .
Vrbnik
Nečven
Drniš
Čitluk
Mratovo
ka
Kr
Oklaj
River Čikola
After Lake Visovac, the Krka is
Širitovci joined by the River Čikola and
from here the river flows
towards the Skradinski buk
Monastery of and then on to the sea.
Visovac
Drniš
Drinovci
Visiting the Park

ola
Čik The protected area begins at the Knin valley and continues to the
bridge of Skradin. Road signs mark the entrances to the park; each has
Nos Kalik a parking area, a tourist information centre, and a ticket office. Cars can
Šibenik enter from Lozovac, while the Roški slap waterfalls can be reached
Drniš from Miljevci or Skradin. About 15 km
(9 miles) from Burnum, other road signs
indicate the entrance to the area of the
Roški slap waterfalls. Boats leave from
Key Skradin for trips to the Skradinski buk
Major road waterfalls and from here it is possible
to take a short cruise to the Roški slap
Minor road
falls, crossing the lake of Visovac and
Scenic route visiting the monastery on the island. View of Krka Park
Waterfall

8 Šibenik and is now a Civic Museum.

This late-Renaissance building
Located alongside the mouth of the river Krka, this houses coin collections,
picturesque city, with its steep streets and arched passages, archaeological finds from the
is a joy to explore. It is first documented in 1066 as Castrum Neolithic to Roman periods,
tomb finds, early Croatian
Sebenici, when King Petar Krešimir IV described it as a triangular
sculptures (7th–9th centuries),
fortified town. Between 1412 and 1797, it was ruled by the and a rich archive of historical
Venetians, and the old centre acquired grand buildings and documents about the city and
three large forts as well as bastions on the island of St Nicholas. its territory, many from the
It was a prosperous time and Šibenik became one of the medieval period. There is a
liveliest cultural centres in Renaissance Croatia. Venetian rule statue of the count (1609–11)
on the façade by the entrance.
gave way to a brief period of French occupation until Austria
took over and ruled until 1917. The war during the 1990s R Cathedral of St James
brought about the collapse of local industry, and mass Katedrala sv. Jakova
unemployment. The situation today is much improved. See pp110–11.
P Old Loggia
library with manuscripts Gradska loža
and liturgical material in Trg Republike Hrvatske.
the monastery. In front of the cathedral’s Door
of Lions stands the Old Loggia,
R Church of formerly the seat of the city
St Barbara council, built between 1532 and
Sv. Barbara 1543 to a design by Michele
Kralja Tomislava. Sanmicheli, and restored after it
Tel (022) 214 899. Museum: was damaged during World War II.
Open May–Oct: 9am–1pm, This is a two-storey structure:
5–7pm; Nov–Apr: by appt. the ground floor is an open
The small Church of portico with nine large arches,
St Barbara, behind the the upper floor is a loggia, with
Cathedral of St James Cathedral of St James, a balustrade.
was built around the
R Church of St Francis middle of the 15th century, and
Sv. Frane conserves parts of an older
Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1. Tel (022) 201 building. Irregular openings
480. Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily. make the façade unusual: the
Along the busy seafront, on lunette on the main door has a
the southern edge of the Old statue of St Nicholas from the
Town centre, once stood the workshop of Bonino of Milan
Monastery and Church of (1430). Inside is an altar made
St Francis, founded in 1229 and by a youthful pupil of Juraj
destroyed during a raid in 1321. Dalmatinac, Giovanni da Pribislao,
Some capitals, a few statues, who was obliged to match The 16th-century Old Loggia, designed by
and parts of the arches in the another altar which had been Michele Sanmicheli
cloister remain of the original saved from the previous church.
structure. Towards the middle The church also houses a rich Y Medieval Mediterranean
of the 15th century several and interesting collection of Garden of St Lawrence
new chapels were added on. religious art, with paintings, Monastery (MMG)
The buildings were completely sculptures and illuminated Srednjovjekovni samostanski
rebuilt in the Baroque style texts dating from the 14th to mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre (SSMV)
around the middle of the 18th the 16th centuries. Trg Republike Hrvatske 4. Tel (022)
century. The church underwent 212 515. Open summer: 8am–11pm
complete renovation: the wood- E Count’s Palace – Civic daily; winter: 9am–4pm daily.
en ceiling and the sumptuous Museum Maintained by the children of
gilded carved wooden altars Muzej grada Šibenika a local high school, this garden
were remade, and every wall Gradska vrata 3. Tel (022) 213 880. is one of Šibenek’s most popular
was decorated with paintings. Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat. attractions. The MMG follows
Inside, in the first chapel on This palace takes its name from a medieval design and has a
the left, is a great organ from the Venetian Count Niccolò varied assortment of flowers,
1762, made by Petar Nakić. The Marcello who built it in the herbs and plants that create a
large cloister has kept its 14th- 12th–13th century. It was the dazzling combination of colours.
century structure and there is a Venetian governor’s residence Capers have been planted in the
ŠIBENIK  109
Map D5. * 37,000. n Local:
Ulica Fausta Vrančića 18,
(022) 212 075; Regional: Fra
N. Ružića bb, (022) 219 072.
∑ sibenik-tourism.hr
Transport
k Split, 97 km (60 miles).
£ (022) 333 699. @ Draga 44,
(060) 368 368, (022) 216 066.
4 Dr. F. Tuđmana 7, (022) 213 468.
Medieval Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence Monastery (MMG)

The present structure dates from
gaps of the stone walls as P Fort of St John the middle of the 17th century
a homage to Juraj Dalmatinac, Tvrđava sv. Ivan and a pretty garden is laid out in
who is believed to have been the n (022) 212 075. front of the bastions.
first to bring them to Šibenek. Standing on a hill 115 m (410 ft)
high, the fort was built in 1646 in P Fort of St Nicholas
P Fort of St Michael a star shape after the city was Tvrđava sv. Nikola
Tvrđava sv. Mihovila attacked by the Turks in 1649. n (022) 212 075.
n (022) 213 880 (Civic Museum). The fort was planned by the
The restored fort is of medieval P Barone Fortress Italian architect Michele
origins. It was destroyed after Tvrđava Barone Sanmicheli, and built between
lightning struck the powder n (022) 213 880. 1540 and 1547 on a cliff
magazine. When it was rebuilt, The third large fort, called Barone overlooking the city. It is a fine
account was taken of the city’s Fortress, or Šubićevac, was example of military architecture,
altered defence needs, and the constructed rapidly in 1646, in both for its strength and for
towers were omitted. Its present the face of an imminent Turkish the beauty of the decorations
appearance dates from the 16th– attack. The fort, in fact, greatly above the entrance gate, in the
17th centuries. Formerly known contributed to the defeat of the apertures, in the rooms, and
as St Anne, it offers magnificent Turks in 1647. After a long siege, along the corridors. The fort
views over the islands. large parts of it had to be rebuilt. was often used as a prison.
Šibenik City Centre

1 Church of St Francis Fort of
St John
2 Church of St Barbara Fort of
St Michael
JURJA
3 Count’s Palace – Civic

Museum
JA
PO D
BUK
DALMAT
BL
4 Cathedral of St James
OV
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TV
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RĐ
AČ
pp110–11 T
AV
KA
PU
PRO
OM
INC
KN
KRA
5 Old Loggia
IN
MI
SK
A
NS
6 Medieval Mediterranean
KA
LJA
V A
NO
O B AL A N A C A
OM LA DI
Garden of St Lawrence MMG of DA

S V.
St Lawrence
L E VLA
Monastery (MMG) Monastery

PA LIH
ZV
LUCE
AN
ON
7 Fort of St Michael
RI
K
D
NI
JE
KA
Cathedral ČI
IM
ĆA Church of
of St James Old St Chrysogonus
IRA
Loggia DO
Count’s Palace – N Church of
Civic Museum KR St John
S
KR
TE
AL A
Church of AR I Ć A
ST
JA ID O V
O
St Barbara TO N
ŠI
BO R
AŽ
MI
Ć
T E Barone
A
SLA P E
VA Fortress
LE JIC
NE
TRG PAVLA
JE AL
ŠUBIĆA
KR
A
Ć
ZLARINSKI VI Church
R AKO
PROLAZ
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of the
K
SV. N . TA I Ć A
BA
rk
Ascension
BA
LA
a
Theatre
JA
O
US K O
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VEL
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POLJANA
BO
ČK
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TRG IVANA Fort of

GORANA St Nicholas
KOVAČIĆA Perivoj
0 metres 200 Roberta
Visianija
Train Station Church of
0 yards 200 200 m (220 yards) St Francis
Bus Station
200 m (220 yards)
Šibenik: Cathedral of St James

Katedrala sv. Jakova
It took Croatian and international experts several years to

restore Šibenik’s cathedral after its shelling in 1991. Its
original construction by renowned Dalmatian and Italian
artists began in 1432 and was completed in 1555. The
original project was entrusted to the Venetian Antonio Dalle
Masegne, who built the lower Gothic level. His successor,
Juraj Dalmatinac (see p24), designed the upper Renaissance
part of the sculptures by the doors, the 72 faces on the
outside of the apse, many of the capitals, the tomb of Juraj
Šižgorić and, along with Andrija Aleši, the beautiful baptistry.
On Dalmatinac’s death in 1475, the work was continued by
Nikola Firentinac, who built the splendid presbytery with the
choir, the dome, the galleries and vaulted roof. The Adam
and Eve by the Door of Lions are by Bonino of Milan.
Transept
The transept is surmounted with a
square structure below the dome;
on three sides is an arch bearing a
statue. The stones were worked in
such a way that they fitted together
without the need for mortar.
KEY
1 The exterior is decorated with

72 sculpted human faces on the
cornice, the work of Juraj Dalmatinac
and his assistants.
2 The Dome, a unique structure
built of interlocking slabs of stone,
was badly damaged in 1991.
3 The barrelled roof, built, like
the rest of the cathedral, entirely in
local stone, is a tribute to the great
technical skill of the stone-cutters.
4 The Gothic doorway is
decorated with groups of sculptures . Presbytery
of saints ascending the arch, which is The finely worked stone stalls were made by Juraj
framed by two spires. Dalmatinac and Nikola Firentinac. Other sculpted
reliefs adorn the upper parts.
ŠIBENIK  111
. Baptistry VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

At the end of the right aisle is an
impressive baptistry with many
statues and reliefs sculpted by
Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.
Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola Firentinac
Tel (022) 214 418.
and Andrija Aleši. The fine
Open daily. 7 8
baptismal font is supported ∑ sibenik.hr/vodic-eng/
by three putti.
sibenik/kulturno_povijesna_
bastina2.asp
Façade
The symmetrical façade has an
arched tympanum in the centre.
The taller central section has a rose
window in the centre and a smaller
one above on the tympanum. The
façade is framed by two pilasters
and has only one door.
Interior
The three-aisle interior is divided by columns
with carved capitals supporting pointed
arches. The tall central nave has a frieze
and women’s gallery.
9 Drniš sculptor (see p163) built the here on Mount Spas. It was used
Map D4. * 3,400. £ Šibenik, 25 km Church of the Most Holy by reigning Croat monarchs,
(15 miles), (022) 333 699. @ Šibenik, Redeemer here for himself and who often stayed in the nearby
(022) 216 066. n Domovinskog rata his family. It is simply designed town of Biskupija and held
5, (022) 888 619. ∑ tz-drnis.hr in the form of a stone cube with coronations here.
a shallow dome. Early in the 11th century
The town of Drniš first appears Knin became a bishopric
in documents towards the end and the residence of several
of the 15th century, as the site aristocratic Croatian families.
of a fort built to stop a Turkish Occupied by the Turks in the
invasion, at the point where the early 16th century, in 1688
River Čikola cuts into the valley Knin fell to the Venetians.
and flows down towards Šibenik. The Morlachs, in the pay
In 1526 the fort was captured of Venice, distinguished
and enlarged by the Turks, who themselves in the battle to
made it one of their outposts. retake the fort by scaling the
A village with a mosque and walls. Afterwards they rebuilt
baths developed around the the fort and settled in the town.
fort, but during the wars In 1991, the Serbian army
between Venice and the used the fort when most of
Ottoman empire, from 1640 to the inhabitants of Croat origin
1650, the fort and the village were forced out. It became a
were almost entirely destroyed focus for the Serb rebellion
by the Venetians. In the recon Church of the Most Holy Redeemer in and the Republic of the Serb
struction that followed the Otavice, near Drniš Krajina, of which Knin was the
mosque was remodelled capital, was created. In August
and became the Church of 1995 the territory was returned
St Anthony. The minaret became 0 Knin to the Croats.
the bell tower of the church of Map D4. * 12,000. £ (022) 663 722.
St Roch. Serbs populated the n Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, (022) 664 Environs
town and it became part of the 822. ∑ tz-knin.hr About 5 km (3 miles) away is
Krajina territory. Biskupija, once known as the
Along the road from Drniš to A town on the main road from “Field of five churches”, for its
Šibenik, the ruins of defence Zagreb to Split, Knin has long religious buildings (9th–11th
structures with high walls and played an important role in centuries) attended by the
a tower can be seen. Dalmatia’s history. It occupies a Croat kings. King Zvonimir
strategic position on the plateau, was killed here by Croat
Environs and there have been defences of nobles who did not accept his
Some 9 km (5 miles) east some kind here since prehistoric allegiance to the pope. By the
of Drniš is the village of times. In the 10th century, when main building is a church
Otavice, the birthplace of Ivan the town was known as Ad designed by Ivan Meštrović
Meštrović’s parents. The great Tenen, the Fort of Knin was built and frescoed by Jozo Kljaković.
Imposing Fort of Knin, on Mount Spas

q Sinj
Map D5. * 11,500. £ Split. @ Split.
n Put Petrovca 12, (021) 826 352.
_ Madonna of Sinj Festival (Aug);
Sinjska alka jousting tournament
(1st Sun Aug). ∑ visitsinj.com
On the Cetina plateau the

Romans founded Aequum,
the present-day Čitluk, on
the road towards Bosnia, but
the Avars and Slavs forced the
inhabitants to abandon the
town and move to a nearby
hill called Castrum Zyn which, Primošten, once an island but now linked to the mainland
once fortified, was safer and
easier to defend. w Klis e Primošten
In the 14th century, some
Map D5. * 2,300. £ Split. @ Split. Map D5. * 1,800. £ Split. @ Split,
Franciscan monks fleeing Bosnia n Megdan 57, (021) 240 578. (021) 329 180. 4 Marina, (022) 570
came here and built a Franciscan ∑ tzo-klis.htnet.hr 068. n Trg biskupa J. Arnerića 2, (022)
Monastery (Franjevački 571 111. _ Gospe od Loreta (May);
samostan) and a church. The little village of Klis is Summer Carnival (Jun); Primoštenske
The town, by now called Sinj, dominated by an imposing užance (Aug). ∑ tz-primosten.hr
was captured by the Turks in Fort which consists of three
1513 and remained in their concentric walls. It was founded Originally an isolated island,
possession until 1686 when it by the Romans on a hill above a Primošten is now connected to
was liberated by the Venetians. mountain pass which led from the mainland by a bridge and a
The star-shaped Kamičak Fort, the plateau onto the plain. The causeway. The name Primošten
was built with a tall observation Venetians strengthened the fort means “brought closer by a
tower, enabling Sinj horsemen and enlisted the Uskoks to help bridge”. It was inhabited in pre-
to mount a surprise attack on fight off the Turks, who however historic times, and was settled by
Ottoman troops attempting finally captured it in 1537. Bosnian refugees fleeing from
to recapture the town, in 1715. The Turks enlarged the fort, the Turks. Under Venetian rule,
In gratitude to the Miraculous building a mosque and a walls were built around the town.
Madonna for their victory, the minaret and from here they The top of the town is dominated
townspeople gave her image a menaced the city of Split until by the Church of St George, built
golden crown. 1648 when they were driven off in the late 15th century and
This historical event is by Venetian troops. The fort was enlarged around 1760. Inside is
commemorated every year on in use until the Austrians took an icon of the Virgin on a silver
the first Sunday in August with over. The mosque was turned panel, and a Baroque altar.
a jousting tournament (Sinjska into a church and the minaret A resort with pebbly beaches
alka), when expert riders take was demolished. and bike trails, Primošten is also
part in a competition to capture The town’s restaurants are famous for its vineyards (see p135)
a shield, the symbol of victory. particularly known for their and a rich red wine called Babić.
The Museum of Sinjska alka excellent spit-roasted lamb.
tells the story of this tournament,
a regional tradition that has r Marina
taken place since the early
Map D5. * 1,000. n Trg Stjepana
18th century.
Radića 1, (021) 889 015.
The Franciscan church, which
has been rebuilt at various Situated in the bay of the
times, is a popular pilgrimage same name, Marina is a small,
site. The monastery has been picturesque Dalmatian town
renovated and some of the and has a marina and a pretty
rooms house archaeological beach. The village, surrounded
finds from ancient Aequum. by top-quality olive groves, has
been inhabited since the 15th
R Franciscan Monastery century. Nearby, in a naturally
A Stepinca 1. Tel (021) 707 010. protected inlet, is the Yachting
Open by appt only. Sport Agana marina. Also
E Museum of Sinjska alka located in the Riviera Marina
Put Petrovca 12. Tel (021) 444 region are the small towns of
730. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Fort of Klis, the scene of many Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid. These
∑ alka.hr bloody battles are all rich in archaeological sites.
t Trogir R Cathedral of St Lawrence

Sv. Lovre
Set on a small island just off the mainland, Trogir is one Trg Ivana Pavla II. Tel (091) 531 4754.
of the jewels of the Dalmatian coast, with many splendid Open mid-May–Oct: 9am–8pm; Nov–
mid-May: by appt.
monuments. The Greeks of Issa (now Vis) first settled here
The cathedral stands on the site
in the 3rd century BC, when they founded the fortified
of an ancient church destroyed
town of Tragyrion (island of goats) which became Tragurium by the Saracens. Construction
under the Romans in 48 BC. In the Middle Ages Trogir was started in 1193, but was
protected by the Byzantine fleet, but in 1123 it was attacked prolonged for decades and
and destroyed by the Saracens, and abandoned by the few involved dozens of artists. The
surviving inhabitants. It revived again 70 years later and a three-aisle building has three
semicircular apses: the central
period of artistic growth ensued, first under the kings of nave is higher than the side
Hungary and, from 1420, under Venetian rule. In 1997 aisles from which it is divided
Trogir was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. by eight columns.
There are two entrances.
The side door, known as “the
count’s”, is very simple, and
dated 1213. The other entrance
is a magnificent Romanesque
door under an atrium, to the
right of which stands a beautiful
Gothic bell tower, built between
the late 14th century and the
beginning of the 17th century.
This door was carved in around
1240 by the Dalmatian sculptor
Master Radovan (see p24), and
is the finest expression of
Romanesque sculpture to be
found in Dalmatia. Two stone
Seafront of Trogir, with Kamerlengo Castle in the distance lions support statues of Adam
and Eve either side of the door.
Most of the old historic centre E Civic Museum Next to them are pilasters
of the town is on an island Muzej grada Trogira depicting saints in Byzantine
and is encircled by a wall Gradska vrata 4. Tel (021) 881 406. style. Scenes of the different
with two gates. A bridge now Open Jun & Sep: 9am–noon, 5–8pm months of the year are carved
joins the island to the mainland Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: 9am–noon, on the middle pilasters.
and another links it to the 6–9pm daily; Oct–May: 9am–2pm Above the door, in the large
island of Čiovo. Tourism is Mon–Fri. & 8 ^ lunette, is a relief of the Nativity
important to the town: ice- On the other side of the Land and in the semicircles are
cream parlours, restaurants Gate is the Baroque Garagnin episodes from the life of Jesus. The
and pizzerias line the small Fanfogna Palace, now the door is enclosed under a sloping
squares. The main public and Civic Museum, with 18th- roof with a corbel at the top with
religious monuments, and century furnishings. There a statue of St Lawrence. In the
other important buildings, are archaeological collections, atrium is a baptistry designed by
have been the subject of documents and antique clothes Andrija Aleši in around 1460 with
restoration work. linked to the town’s history. a relief of the Baptism of Christ.
P Land Gate P Stafileo Palace

Sjeverna vrata Palača Stafileo
Rebuilt in the 17th century, Matije Gupca 20. Closed to the public.
this gate was made from a Stafileo Palace was built in the
tall doorway in pale rusticated late 15th century. A series of five
stone, with grooves which windows in Venetian Gothic
once supported a drawbridge. style punctuates each of the
On the cornice above the two floors, the openings framed
arch once stood the lion of by pillars, capitals and carved
St Mark and, above that, on a arches. Around the arches are
pedestal, stands a statue of the reliefs of flowers and leaves.
Blessed John of Trogir (Sv. Ivan The design is attributed to the
Trogirski), one of the town’s school of Juraj Dalmatinac, who The intricate Romanesque door of the
patron saints. worked for many years in Trogir. Cathedral of St Lawrence
TROGIR  115
the centre, the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

sarcophagus of the
Blessed Orsini, the first Practical Information
bishop of Trogir. The Map D5. * 10,500. n Trg Ivana
sculptures are by Nikola Pavla II 1, (021) 885 628.
Firentinac, Andrija Aleši ∑ tztrogir.hr
and Ivan Duknović. Transport
In the sacristy are k Split Airport, 7 km (5 miles).
paintings by Salvator £ Split, 30 km (18 miles). @
Rosa and Gentile (021) 881 405. 4 (021) 881 508.
Bellini, cabinets
carved by Grgur Vidov,
The cathedral of St Lawrence dominates the square and a Treasury with windows on each side: the
many gold pieces, north and south walls have
The church interior contains an reliquaries and paintings dating mullioned windows with four
octagonal stone pulpit from the from the 17th century. trefoil eyes, those on the east
13th century built and sculpted The tall bell tower was built in and west walls are surmounted
by Mauro, a choir with wooden the 14th century, but was partly by fretwork grilles, with columns
stalls inlaid by Ivan Budislavić destroyed during the wars early and capitals at the centre and
towards the mid-15th century, in the following century and corners, giving a feeling of
and a ciborium on the main only the ground floor remains lightness to the entire floor.
altar with sculptures depicting of the original building. When Recent studies attribute this
the Annunciation. On the altars Trogir became part of Venetian work to the Italian sculptor
are paintings by Palma il territory, the bell tower was Lorenzo Pincino, who worked
Giovane and Padovanino. rebuilt. The first floor, with a in Trogir and Dalmatia for many
Along the left aisle is the balustrade by Matej Gojković years, with the assistance of
chapel of the Blessed Orsini, a (1422), is in the Gothic style, local craftsmen.
masterpiece by Nikola Firentinac with two narrow mullioned The third storey, from the late
and Andrija Aleši made in 1468– windows with a trefoil, 16th century, was built by the
72, with 12 statues of the apostles surmounted by blind arches. sculptor Trifun Bokanić and has
in shell-shaped niches and, in The second level has two tall large arched openings.
Trogir Town Centre

1 Land Gate q Church of St Dominic
2 Civic Museum w Kamerlengo Castle
3 Stafileo Palace and St Mark’s Tower Airport
7 km (5 miles)
4 Cathedral of St Lawrence STRALA
JADRANSKA MAGI
5 Čipiko Palace Bus
Station
6 Town Hall Market
7 Loggia and Clock Tower

8 Church of St John the Baptist BLA
ŽA
JUR
9 Sea Gate and Fish Market JEV
A
T
Land Gate
0 Church of St Nicholas
RO
GI
RA
Civic
NIN
GRADSKA
A RADOVANOV
IK Museum
A
TRG
EN
UČ E VA
M BIC Čipiko Cathedral of
SU St Lawrence
IH Palace
T SK
TRG IVANA
VA M ATI J E G U P C A Town
HR Stafileo
PAVLA II
Hall
Palace Loggia and
KA Clock Tower
MO
S Church of
AU
SI NJ
St John the Baptist
GU
RN
S T IN
E IVANA DUKNOVIĆA
TSK
AR
GRADSKA
R VA
OB
HR
EH
AK
TIC
VA
SK
RO
St Mark’s MA
TS
Walls
KO
Tower
ŽOT
G
Sea Gate Church of

PR
IĆA
KA and Fish St Nicholas

OL
AR S
KOV
JEČ
VU Market
A
19
71
Church of RI VA
Marmont’s Small
Kamerlengo St Dominic Loggia
Gloriette Castle
ERI SL AV I Ć A
B A NA B
OB AL A
0 metres 100
0 yards 100

Exploring Trogir Ivana Pavla II). The Loggia

has a roof supported by six
A good time to visit Trogir is the late spring or columns with Roman capitals
early autumn, when the narrow streets, flanked by and dates from the 14th
ancient stone houses, are not so busy with summer century. On the wall are two
reliefs, one from 1471 sculpted
visitors, and there is space to stop and admire the
by Nikola Firentinac (Justice),
ingenious architectural details that make this and one from 1950 by Ivan
island so fascinating. A carved doorway, a coat of Meštrović (Ban Berislavić).
arms or a mullioned window may decorate the The Clock Tower stands to the
façade of a building; the entrance to a courtyard left of the Loggia. It supports
may offer glimpses of scented gardens. These are all a pavilion dome, salvaged
in 1447 from the Chapel of
indications of a once widespread prosperity and also the Oratory of St Sebastian.
evidence of Trogir’s cultural past, when it was an The saint’s statue on the
important centre for the arts. After many years of façade was sculpted by
hardship and neglect, the town has been restored Nikola Firentinac.
to its former glory.
R Church of St John
the Baptist
central ones hold a scroll with Sv. Ivan Krstitelj
the coats of arms of the Čipiko Open ask at tourist office for timings.
family. The second floor lacks This small Romanesque
a balustrade, and is similar church, built in the 13th
in style to the lower floor, century, is the pantheon of
although its decorations the powerful Čipiko family. The
are less ornate. church housed an Art Gallery
A second door, opening on (Pinacoteca) with collections
to a side street, has a complex of medieval illuminated manu
structure. Two fluted door jambs scripts, ornaments, paintings
support capitals with carved and precious gold pieces from
foliage decoration and a stone various churches, but this is
cornice with two sculpted lions now in the Museum of Sacred
holding a coat of arms. These Art near the cathedral of
are flanked by two sculptures St Lawrence. The collection
of angels in medallions. also includes a sculpture
(Deposition) by Nikola Firentinac,
A Renaissance well in the courtyard of P Town Hall organ panels by Gentile Bellini
Čipiko Palace Gradska vijećnica (St Jerome and St John the
Trg Ivana Pavla II. Baptist) and two polyptychs
P Čipiko Palace On the eastern side of the by Blaise of Trogir.
Palača Čipiko square is the Town Hall. This
Gradska ulica. Closed to the public, building originates from the
except courtyard. 15th century and has three
An inscription indicates 1457 storeys with open arches and
as the year of completion of a beautiful mullioned window
the beautiful Čipiko Palace, with a balustrade on the upper
built for Trogir’s most illustrious floor, which was restored in
family. Over a Renaissance the 19th century.
doorway, distinguished by its Numerous coats of arms
columns with capitals, is a shell decorate the façade which has
decoration above a finely three Renaissance doors framed
worked cornice. by projecting stone. The pretty
The first floor has a mullioned porticoed courtyard is open
window with a balustrade in to the public. However, the
lightcoloured stone. In the interior, which has been altered
centre, two columns with at various times, has nothing of
capitals support pointed significant interest.
arches and at the ends of the
window are two thin pilasters P Loggia and Clock Tower
surmounted by capitals Gradska loža
with spiral decorations. Trg Ivana Pavla II. Open daily.
Between the arches are four The Loggia and the Clock Tower Doorway of the Romanesque church of
sculptures of angels. Two face John Paul II Square (Trg St John the Baptist
TROGIR  117
a lawyer, attributed to Nikola

Firentinac (1469), and a splendid
painting by Palma il Giovane
(Circumcision of Christ).
P Kamerlengo Castle and

St Mark’s Tower
Kaštel Kamerlengo
In the southwest corner of
the island stands Kamerlengo
Castle, which was at one time
the residence of the Venetian
governor. It was built by the
The 16th-century loggia where the Fish Market is housed Venetians in about 1430, and
is a four-sided structure with a
P Sea Gate and Fish Market R Church of St Nicholas hexagonal base. Facing the sea,
Južna vrata Sv. Nikola its high walls connect the three
Obala bana Berislavića. Gradska ulica 2. Tel (021) 881 631. towers and the bastion. This
The Sea Gate was built at the The church and Benedictine imposing structure was once
end of the 16th century and convent date from the 11th connected to St Mark’s Tower
has two beautiful columns century, but were rebuilt in (Kula svetog Marka). The large
made of blocks of light- the 16th century. The open space inside
coloured stone which frame convent rooms now the castle is used for
the opening and support a house the Zbirka outdoor theatre
projecting block on which Umjetnina Kairos, performances and
stands the lion of St Mark. an art collection concerts during the
Nearby is the Fish Market which includes the summer months.
which is held in an open Kairos, a relief of Greek St Mark’s Tower
loggia with nine columns origins (1st century BC) was built by the
supporting the roof. It was built depicting the god of Venetians after the
in 1527 and was formerly the opportunity, a Gothic construction of the
customs house. Crucifix, and a castle and has the
Romanesque statue Relief depicting Kairos, typical structure of
(The Virgin with Child). St Nicholas defences built in the
Renaissance period.
R Church of St Dominic A circular tower stands on a
Sv. Dominik truncated cone base and there
Obala bana Berislavića. Open summer: is a long series of embrasures
8am–noon, 4–7pm daily. on the roof. Artillery was
The Church and Monastery of installed on the top level in
St Dominic are Romanesque- readiness to defend the strip
Gothic buildings constructed of water that separates the
Ceremonial costumes made by the in the 14th century. They were island from the mainland.
tailor Boris Burić Gena renovated by Nikola Firentinac What was once the parade
in the Renaissance style. The ground, between the castle
Boris Burić Gena single-nave church contains and St Mark’s Tower, is now
Trogir can boast a unique the tomb of Giovanni Sobota, the town’s sports field.
present-day success story:
Boris Burić Gena, a tailor
who specializes in making
traditional Croatian suits. His
signature jackets are made
without lapels and have
antique-style brocade
buttonholes. They are often
worn in ceremonies and
parades. The careful choice of
fabrics, meticulous design and
matching of accessories have
made this talented craftsman’s
name. His workshop, the Burić
Palace, now draws wealthy
and famous clients from all
over Europe.
The imposing St Mark’s Tower, built for defence in 1470
y Salona
The ancient town of Salona, 5 km (3 miles) from Split, is
famous for its Roman ruins. The name Salona (or Salonae)
is of Illyrian origin, but its meaning is unknown. Originally
an Illyrian settlement, it did not become an important centre
until the Romans built a town next to the Greek city. During
the rule of Augustus it became a Roman colony called Martia
Iulia Salona, and later it was the capital of the province of
Dalmatia. In the 1st and 2nd centuries AD the Romans built
an amphitheatre, a theatre, temples, baths, a Forum and town
walls reinforced with towers, and Salona became the richest
and most populated city in the mid-Adriatic. In the mid-7th
century, the Avars and the Slavs destroyed it and it fell into
disuse. The buildings and the churches were stripped and
the stone was used for new buildings. Narthex connecting the two basilicas
of early Christian basilicas, baths

Christian church was and the Caesarea Gate. The
constructed here to Baths were first built as a villa
house the relics of the in the 3rd century. In the early
Salonian saints, victims Christian period the buildings
of Diocletian’s persecu- were probably transformed
tion of Christians. The into religious buildings: the
ruins of the necropolis Episcopal Centre in the north-
and the basilica are eastern sector of Salona
well preserved. comprised basilicas, a baptistry
From Manastirine, and the bishop’s residence.
after the entrance, you Before Christianity became wide-
reach the Tusculum, spread, early Christian martyrs
a villa built in the last were slayed here, including
century for the distin- St Domnius (the patron saint of
guished archaeologist Split), Venantius and Anastasius.
Frane Bulić, to enable The foundations of two
Ruins of the walls and triangular tower him to study Salona. basilicas have been excavated.
A scholar and director One is known as the Urban
Exploring Salona of the Archaeological Museum Basilica, the other, called
At the beginning of the 19th in Split (see p125), he devoted Honorius’ Basilica, had a Greek
century excavations began to most of his life to researching cross plan. This is also the site of
bring to light the buried remains the ancient ruins of this city. what remains of the Caesarea
of this ancient settlement. The The building now houses Gate: arches flanked by two
work has clearly shown that the Frane Bulić’s memorial room. octagonal towers, showing the
town had three districts dating However, the most interesting building techniques used by
from different periods: the material is now in the the Romans in the Imperial era.
original, old centre (Urbs vetus) Archaeological Museum in Split. Going west along the walls
and a later part which dates Further on is the richest area you reach the Necropolis of
from the Augustan era (Urbs of ruins with the foundations Kapljuč, another early Christian
nova occidentalis and Urbs nova
orientalis). The excavations have
uncovered only a part of the
layout of the outer walls, which
were frequently reinforced over
the centuries. However, the
foundations and the remains of
towers with triangular or rectan-
gular reinforcements are visible.
A good place to begin a tour
is the Cemetery of Manastirine,
the first Christian cemetery just
outside the walls, north of the
city (near the parking area).
In the 4th century, an early Necropolis of Manastirine, just outside the walls
and part of the stage VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

and the foundations
of the stalls have been Practical Information
excavated. Next to the Map D5. n (021) 211 538.
theatre is the Forum, Open Apr, May & Sep: 9am–
the political and 7pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7pm Sat,
commercial heart of 9am–1pm Sun; Jun–Aug:
the city. Unlike the 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 8am–8pm
Sat, 9am–2pm Sun; Oct:
Forum in Zadar (see
9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–6pm
pp94–7), the paving
Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; Nov–Mar:
Basilica Urbana in the Bishop’s Complex was dismantled and 9am–4pm Mon–Sat. 8
only the foundations ∑ solin-info.com
burial site, and then the imposing remain. In the Roman era some
ruins of the Amphitheatre, in of the most important buildings Transport
the easternmost part of the city. stood around the Forum, which @ from Split.
The amphitheatre, in stone, was begun in the 1st century
was probably covered in stone AD and subsequently modified.
and stood in the newer part of The best-preserved Roman use. Alongside the walls it is
the city on the northwest edge construction in ancient Salona possible to see some parts of
of Urbs vetus (Old Town) close is the Aqueduct, built to bring the aqueduct above the surface.
to the walls. water from the River Jadro to From the theatre you return to
According to historians, the the city and extended in the the Manastirine necropolis. North
amphitheatre could seat 18,000– time of Emperor Diocletian of this site is the Necropolis
20,000 people. The foundations to reach his palace in Split of Marusinac, built outside
and a part of the lower tribune (see pp122–3). Repair work was the city around the tomb of
were excavated and the discov- carried out at the end of the St Anastasius. In this area a few
ery of an underground channel 19th century and the southern traces of a basilica dating from
led to the theory that simulated part of the aqueduct is still in the 5th century are still visible.
naval battles were held in the
arena. However, this proved to
be wrong as the arena was
unsuitable for naval battles.
The amphitheatre’s
construction date was debated
over for a long time, but has
now been established as having
taken place in the second half
of the 2nd century AD.
From the amphitheatre,
another path leads to the theatre
at the edge of the old city. This
was built in the 1st century AD The Amphitheatre, of which only a part of the lower tribune remains
The Ruins of Salona Café Walls and

1 Cemetery of Manastirine Aqueduct
2 Tusculum
3 Baths
4 Episcopal Centre Sinj
5 Caesarea Gate
6 Necropolis of Kapljuć
7 Amphitheatre
8 Theatre URBS NOVA
ORIENTALIS
9 Forum
0 Necropolis of Marusinac URBS NOVA
OCCIDENTALIS
URBS VETUS
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Motorway E65 Modern town

Split
u Split
Shipyards, factories and a busy port present the modern face
of Split, which expanded unchecked after World War II. The
Old Town centre is still full of charm however; it grew up in
and around the Emperor Diocletian’s vast Roman palace, one
of the largest and best-preserved left from the Roman world.
In 614, the palace took in refugees from Salona (see pp118–
19), which had been razed by the Avars, and these newcomers
began to use the Roman structure as housing. Among the
refugees were the bishop and other religious dignitaries,
who breathed new life into the bishopric of Split. After two
centuries of Byzantine rule and the establishment of Croat Baptismal font in the Baptistry of St John,
communities, Split became part of the Venetian territories in former Temple of Jupiter
1409. Under the Venetians, fortifications were built, including
new walls, and the arts flourished. R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
See p123.
abandoned parts of the
Diocletian complex. It P Silver Gate and Church
houses an exhibition of St Dominic
with various artistic Srebrna vrata i Sv. Dominik
finds, paintings and Hrvojeva ulica. Church of
books illustrating the St Dominic: Open am.
city’s celebrated history Near the Silver Gate there is a
from the 12th to the market, a wonderful chaos of
18th centuries. seasonal fruit and vegetables,
homemade cheeses, hams and
P Peristyle dried herbs. Because of the
The peristyle, the interior open space, this also provides
courtyard, of Diocletian’s the best view of the Palace of
Palace is an impressive Diocletian. It is still possible
part of the complex to distinguish the different
The port and the seafront of Split where the layers of structures of the complex, and
centuries of building can part of the guards’ corridor, on
P Golden Gate clearly be seen. The slim columns the walls, can be walked along.
Zlatna vrata bordering three sides rest on In front of the gate is the
This was the main entrance to a high plinth and have finely Oratory of St Catherine, built
Diocletian’s Palace (see p122) and worked capitals. The access to in the Middle Ages. It was used
was the most impressive of the the former private quarters of by the Dominicans while they
gates, with towers and decorative Diocletian has a tall arched built their own monastery
elements above the arches. In tympanum and relief decorations. (1217). The oratory was rebuilt
the 11th century, the corridor in the 17th century and became
between the palace and the gate R Baptistry of St John the Church of St Dominic
was closed and turned into the Sv. Ivan Krstitelj (Sv. Dominik). Inside the church,
Church of St Martin (Sv. Martin). Tel (021) 345 602. which was enlarged in 1930, are
An inscription commemorates Open 9am–7pm daily. a Miracle in Surian by Palma il
Father Dominic, the founder. This small, beautiful building, Giovane and an Apparition in the
consecrated in the 6th century, Temple, attributed to his school.
E Split City Museum was the Palace’s Temple of
Muzej grada Splita Jupiter. Inside, the baptismal P Brass Gate
Papalićeva 1. Tel (021) 360 171. font incorporates a pre- Mjedena vrata
Open Apr & May: 8:30am–9pm daily; Romanesque panel of King Ethnographic Museum: Iza Vestibula
Jun–Sep: 8:30am–10pm daily; Oct: Zvonimir and other dignitaries. 4. Tel (021) 344 164. Open Jun–Sep:
8:30am–9pm Mon–Sat, 9am–5pm The statue of St John on the 9:30am–8pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–
Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, end wall is by Ivan Meštrović 1pm Sun; Oct–May: 9am–4pm
9am–2pm Sun. & ∑ mgst.net Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. & 7
and was added before World
∑ etnografski-muzej-split.hr
The Gothic Papalić Palace, War II. The tomb of Bishop John
housing the Split City Museum, is from the 8th century and the Although the Brass Gate is plain
is one of the most interesting one in front of it, that of Bishop and faces the sea and port, it
of the 15th–16th-century Lawrence, dates from the opens on to the richest façade of
buildings constructed in the 11th century. the palace. The upper floor had a
SPLIT  121
portico which was later enclosed P Iron Gate VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

for living quarters. The vast cellars Željezna vrata
have been excavated to reveal The church of Our Lady of the Practical Information
impressive arched vaults and Belfry (Gospa od Zvonika) has Map D5. * 175,000. n Peristil
skilful masonry. Shops occupy the city’s oldest early Roman bb, (021) 345 606. _ St Domnius
some of these while others house esque bell tower (1081) and was Feast (7 May); Split Summer
an exhibition about the palace constructed in the outer passage (midJul–midAug).
∑ visitsplit.com
and temporary local displays. way above this Palace entrance.
Close to the Brass Gate, on Transport
Severova, is the Ethnographic P People’s Square k Split Airport: Kaštel Štafilić,
Museum (Etnografski muzej), Narodni trg (Pjaca) (021) 203 506. £ Obala kneza
displaying an array of skilled This was the centre of business Domagoja, (060) 333 444.
Dalmatian folk crafts. and administration from the @ Obala kneza Domagoja,
(060) 327 777. 4 Jadrolinija,
(021) 338 333.
15th century and so the

nobility erected prestigious
buildings here. Examples are
the VenetianGothic Cambi
Palace and the Renaissance
Town Hall (Vijećnica), built in
the first half of the 15th century,
with a loggia with three
arches on the ground floor
and a Gothic window on the
Renaissance Town Hall on People’s Square in the centre of Split upper floor.
Split Town Centre

1 Golden Gate 8 Iron Gate
2 Split City Museum 9 People’s Square
3 Peristyle 0 Braće Radić Square
4 Baptistry of St John q Church of St Francis
5 Cathedral of St Domnius Airport
Archaeological Museum 20 km (12 miles)
6 Silver Gate and POLJUD
KAŠTELA
Church of St Dominic
KA
7 Brass Gate SINJ
S
ZA
VA
N O DI LO
GR
EB
A
Č
K
KRA
A
LJA
VA
N IG TOM
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TO
VA VA
Strossmayerov
D O MAL D OVA
K R U ŽI Ć E VA
ON
Park
ĆA
VA
RM
ŠKA
KRA Golden
NO
ČI
J
DE Gate
AN
S V. M AR
OBROV
LA
LA
MA
IJE
M Town Hall
BOS
N TRG
A
JE
BA Fish
OV
REPUBLIKE
Market
AN
NA
PEOPLE’S DO CARRARINA
M IN POLJANA
CIJ
KA SQUARE Iron Gate IS O

BA
Z AD A R S
KLE
VA Split City
A
PA P
D IO
KR A Museum
JEV
L IĆ
VA
EŠI E VA
ŠUBIĆE
DO MI
RO
IĆE
VA
VO
BR
Church of IĆ
RUL
YLE
PO
VA
St Francis
HR
KR LJAN
MA
A A
IS T
Baptistry J E L L J IC E
BRAĆE RADIĆA EN
of St John
PER
E
SQUARE Silver Gate
Museum of Croatian Cupola and Church
Archaeological Monuments, Cathedral of of St Dominic
Meštrović Gallery St Domnius
Main Hall
RI Diocletian’s
VA
Palace Food
Market
Brass
Gate
Harbour
Train station
200 m (220 yards)
0 metres 100 Key Ferry port
400 m (440 yards)
0 yards 100 Area of illustration, p122

Palace of Diocletian
Diocletian, probably a native of Salona, became emperor in 284.
He made Maximian joint Augustus, senior co-emperor, in 285,
and then in 293 he appointed Galerius and Constantius as
Caesars, junior co-emperors (the Tetrarchy). After governing
for 20 years, Diocletian retired from public life and in 305 moved
to the palace which he had commissioned from the architects
Filotas and Zotikos in the bay of Split. After Diocletian’s death
in 316, the palace was used as administrative offices and the
governor’s residence. In 615, refugees from Salona found shelter
here after the destruction of their city by the Avars. The richest
settled in the emperor’s apartments, the poorer in the towers and
above the gates. The corners of the palace were marked by four Iron Gate and the Clock Tower
square towers, and four towers along the north, east and south This is the best-preserved gate:
sides, while the side facing the sea had a loggia with arches. beyond is the church of Our
Lady of the Belfry with a
Temple of Jupiter 12th-century tower next to it.
This had an atrium with six
columns. The body of the
building had a coffered vault and
rested on an underground crypt.
In the early Middle Ages it was
turned into the Baptistry
of St John.
The Temples of Venus and

Cybele were circular outside
and had a hexagonal ground-
plan inside. A colonnaded
corridor ran around the outside.
The Mausoleum of Diocletian,

now the Cathedral of
St Domnius
Peristyle
Near the crossroads where the Cardo and
Decumanus intersected, the peristyle gave access
to the sacred area. On one side were the temples
of Venus and Cybele and, further back, that of
Jupiter (now the Baptistry of St John); on the other
side, the Mausoleum, now the cathedral.
SPLIT  123
R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
Kraj sv. Duje 5. Tel (021) 345 602.
Open Jun–Aug: 8am–sunset daily;
Sep–May: 9am–noon, 4:30–
7:30pm daily.
Originally the mausoleum of
the emperor Diocletian, the
cathedral was consecrated
in the 7th century when the
sarcophagus containing the
Portrait of Diocletian body of Diocletian was
After reorganizing the empire, removed and replaced, with
the emperor sought the spiritual a certain poetic justice, by
unification of its citizens. The the remains of St Domnius
state religion, personified by the (locally St Duje), a 3rd-century
emperor, gained in importance, bishop martyred as part of
and temples were constructed Diocletian’s persecution of
bearing his image. Christians the early Christians. It was the
were subject to extremely
archbishop of Split at the
violent persecution.
time who transformed the The 13th-century hexagonal pulpit,
mausoleum into a Christian Cathedral of St Domnius
The Golden Gate, facing church, and St Domnius
Salona, was the main entrance became the city’s patron saint. columns, most of them the
to the palace. This was the
most imposing of the
The structure is widely Roman originals; above these is
gates with two towers regarded as the oldest Catholic a frieze decorated with scenes
and many decorations. cathedral in the world that has of Eros hunting, supporting
not been substantially rebuilt medallions with portraits of
at any time. Since being Diocletian and his wife Prisca.
first built it has remained In the second niche on the
practically unaltered right, with frescoes dating
except for the from 1428, is the Altar of
construction of a St Domnius, the work of
Romanesque bell Bonino of Milan (1427). The
tower (12th–16th wooden choir stalls in the
centuries) and the addition of 17th-century presbytery are
the 13th-century choir inside. an example of Romanesque
An ancient sphinx in black carving from the beginning
granite rests at the foot of the of the 13th century.
bell tower. The entrance To the side is a chapel
doorway has wooden panels housing the Altar of St
from 1214, with scenes from Anastasius, designed in 1448
the Gospel in floral frames. by Juraj Dalmatinac. The niche
The Silver Gate, or The cathedral, built on an after this was altered in the
eastern gate, was a octagonal ground-plan, has a 18th century to create the
simpler copy of the
double order of Corinthian Baroque chapel of St Domnius.
Golden Gate.
The 13th-century hexagonal
pulpit is supported by thin
Reconstruction of columns with carved capitals.
Diocletian’s Palace The 14th-century building
The palace, shown here in its behind the cathedral houses
original form, was like a typical the sacristy and the name of
Roman military camp. It was one of the architects, Filotas, is
215 m (705 ft) long and 180 m inscribed by the entrance. In
(590 ft) wide and was enclosed the sacristy, now the Cathedral
by very thick walls, at times Museum, are many works of
28 m (92 ft) high. The four-sided art, including objects in gold
stronghold was reinforced with and silver, ancient manuscripts,
towers on the north, east and medieval icons and vestments.
west sides. There is a gate on Of particular importance
each side, connected by two are the Historia Saloniana
roads corresponding to the written by Archdeacon Toma
Roman Cardo and Decumanus. Detail of the Altar of St Anastasius, in the 13th century and a
Cathedral of St Domnius 7th-century Gospel.
Exploring Split
As well as Diocletian’s palace, Split has much in the way of
historical and artistic interest to offer. In the medieval period,
villages were built near the walls. When the city became
a free town, settlements became physically linked. The
present-day Braće Radić Square and the People’s Square were
built, along with the Cambi Palace and the Town Hall. After
1420, construction of the external defences began and town
walls were built. Between Split and Trogir, castles built for
defence against the Turks still survive.
R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane
Trg Republike. n (021) 348 600 Distant Accords by Ivan Meštrović,
(tourist office). Open by appt. Meštrović Gallery
The church has been rebuilt
in recent times but the small E Meštrović Gallery
Romanesque-Gothic cloister, Galerija Meštrović
with thin columns enclosing Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46. Tel (021)
a flower garden, is original. 340 800. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm
The church, with mainly Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–
Baroque furnishings, has a Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. & - =
∑ mestrovic.hr
15th-century crucifix by Blaž
Juriev Trogiranin. It also houses The building housing this
the tombs of the city’s illustrious gallery was the residence of
citizens, including that of Ivan Meštrović in the early 1930s
Archdeacon Toma (the first (see p163). The sculptor himself
The 15th-century Marina Tower, built by Dalmatian historian), writer designed the building to be his
the Venetians Marko Marulić and the well- family house, studio and gallery.
known composer Ivan Lukačić. His sculptures, including Distant
P Braće Radić Square Accords and Persephone,
Trg braće Radić E Museum of Croatian decorate the garden and the
This medieval square is at the Archaeological Monuments interior. Among statues in
southwest corner of Diocletian’s Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških marble, wood and bronze are
Palace. The tall Marina Tower spomenika The Contemplation, The Vow and
(Hrvojeva kula) is the only Stjepana Gunjace bb. Tel (021) 323 Psyche. Part of the building still
evidence of the imposing 901. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–1pm, preserves the artist’s apartments.
5–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat; Sep–
castle built by the Venetians The Kaštilac, further down
Jun: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm
in the second half of the the road at No. 39, can be
Sat. Closed Sun, public hols.
15th century after the final 7 ^ ∑ mhas-split.hr
visited with the same ticket. This
defeat of Split. Built on an 16th-century residence once
octagonal ground-plan, it Set up in 1975, this belonged to the Capogrosso-
stands on the southern museum houses finds from Kavanjin family and was bought
side of the square. the area around Split dating by Meštrović in 1939 to set up
On the northern side from the early Middle Ages. an exhibition hall. The artist also
is the Baroque Milesi The collection also includes built a small church here to
Palace, which dates from the works of early Croat exhibit a series of reliefs called
the 17th century. There sculptors, dating from 800. New Testament, now replaced
is also a work by Ivan The stone fragments, by a different work, the Author
Meštrović in the centre salvaged from churches of the Apocalypse.
of the square: the great Monument to Marko and castles, consist
monument to Marko Marulić mainly of tombs, capitals, E National Art Gallery
Marulić, the writer and altar fronts, ciboria and Galerija umjetnina
scholar (1450–1524) windows. Highlights include Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Tel (021)
who was the founder Prince Višeslav’s hexagonal 350 110. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:
of literature in the Croatian baptismal font in marble, dating 10am–9pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-
language. The imposing from the beginning of the 9th Jun: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
bronze statue dedicated to century, and the sarcophagus Sat & Sun. Closed Sun, public hols.
& 8 7 - = ∑ galum.hr
the writer has an inscription of Queen Jelena (10th century),
with some verses by the discovered in the ancient The gallery offers a broad
poet Tin Ujević. Roman city of Salona. overview of art in Split and the
SPLIT  125
rest of Croatia from the 14th to are fine views out to sea, with
the 20th centuries. As well as the islands of Šolta, Brač and
the Venetian masters there are Hvar clearly visible. You can also
also important icons from the find the best beaches in Split in
so-called school of Bocche di this pleasant area.
Cattaro (18th–19th centuries)
and more contemporary work, Environs
including works by Ivan Meštrović Seven Castles (Kaštela) is the
and Vlaho Bukovac. Temporary name given to a series of
exhibitions are also held here. fortifications built by the
Polyptych by Girolamo da Santacroce, Venetian governor and local
E Archaeological Our Lady of Grace nobles to defend the town
Museum Split against the Turks between the
Arheološki muzej u Splitu marsh (poljud). In the 1400s, end of the 15th century and the
Zrinsko Frankopanska 25. Tel (021) the Franciscans built a fortified 16th century, between Split and
329 340. Open Jun–Sep: 9am–2pm, monastery here with large Trogir. The village of Kaštela
4–8pm Mon–Sat; Oct–May: lateral towers, and a church grew up around the complex.
9am–2pm, 4–8pm Mon–Fri, with a trussed roof. Five of the original castles are
9am–2pm Sat. & 8 7 A polyptych by still preserved, as are the forti-
The museum was Girolamo da fied villas which rose from their
founded in 1820 and Santacroce from reconstruction.
has been on its 1549 stands on the St George’s Castle (Kaštel
present site since main altar, depicting Sućurac), the summer residence
1914. It contains a the Virgin and Saints: the of the bishop of Split, was built
considerable number Sarcophagus, figure holding a model at the end of the 14th century
of finds from the Archaeological of the city is St Domnius, and strengthened the following
Roman, early Christian Museum Split patron saint of Split. century by building a wall, of
and medieval periods Many works of art are which some traces remain.
which are exhibited in rotation. on display, including a Portrait Abbess Castle (Kaštel Gomilica)
Of great interest are the finds of Bishop Tommaso Nigris by was built on an island which is
from Roman Salona, including Lorenzo Lotto (1527) and now linked to the mainland.
sculptures, capitals, sarcophagi miniatures by Bone Razmilović. Vitturi Castle (Kaštel Lukšić)
(those from the 4th–5th century Not far from the monastery was transformed into a large
still have pagan reliefs), jewel- is the stadium of the famous villa, keeping only the old
lery, coins, small objects in glazed Hajduk Split football team, built external structure. It was
terracotta and ceramics. There in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud built by the Vitturi family,
are also finds from the Roman and designed by Boris Magaš. who donated a sculpture
town of Narona (see p136). by Juraj Dalmatinac to the
Y Marjan Peninsula church of St Raynerius (Sv.
R Our Lady of Grace This protected nature reserve Arnir). Old Castle (Kaštel Stari)
in Poljud is on the west side of town, has kept its original aspect; the
Gospa od Poljuda and is reached by a winding sea-facing side looks like a
Poljudsko šetalište 17. n (021) 381 flight of steps. On the way is palace with Gothic windows.
011. Open by appt. the 13th-century church of All that remains of the New
Towards Zrinsko-Frankopanska St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola). A path Castle (Kaštel Novi) are the
in the direction of the suburbs leads out to the wooded tower and St Roch church,
lies an area once called the peninsula, from where there built by the Čipiko family.
Stadium of the Hajduk football team, built in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud
i Šolta
Map D5. * 1,400. 4 from Split.
n Rogač, (021) 654 657.
∑ visitsolta.com
This long island, indented

with bays and coves, covers
an area of 52 sq km (20 sq
miles). The economy is based
on agriculture thanks to
reasonably fertile soil and,
over recent years, tourism
has also become important.
The Romans called the island The mainland from Supetar on Brač island
Solenta and it was a holiday
resort for the nobility of Salona. o Brač and then to Split. Both Split and
The ruins of many villas can Brač came under Byzantine and
Map D5. *14,000. k (021) 559 711.
be found in lovely locations 4 to Supetar from Split. @ (060) 393
then Venetian rule. Under the
on the island. 060. Supetar: n Porat 10, (021) 630 Venetians (1420–1797), villages
After the attack on Salona 900. ∑ supetar.hr Bol: n Porat were built in the interior but no
in 614, some of the refugees bolskih pomoraca bb, (021) 635 638. defences were built to prevent
fled here and villages were ∑ bol.hr the pirates and Turks landing.
built. Some still have small Ferries from Split on the
churches dating from the The third largest island in the mainland dock at the Old Town
early Middle Ages. The island Adriatic at 40 km (25 miles) of Supetar, which has some
was later abandoned in favour long and 15 km (9 miles) good pebble beaches and
of Split, due to constant wide, Brač has an interesting shallow bays popular with
Turkish raids – though some geological structure. In some families. Supetar’s graveyard
refugees from the mainland areas the ranges of limestone is the site of the impressive
did settle here. hills have sinkholes and are cut Petrinović Mausoleum, a richly
Today, many people from by ravines and gorges. In other decorated rotunda designed
Split have holiday homes on areas a white, hard stone by sculptor Toma Rosandić.
Šolta. The fishing ports of prevails. The stone has been To the southwest lies the
Stomorska, at the eastern end quarried since ancient times town of Milna, which was
of the island, and Maslinica, at (see p140) and is still much founded at the beginning of
the west, both lie in beautiful sought after. The island the 18th century and faces a
bays with plenty of nearby is covered with a
opportunities for swimming. mixture of woodland,
There are many pretty inlets Mediterranean scrub,
near Maslinica that make ideal and olive groves.
moorings for yachts and motor- Although Brač has
boats. But it is worth venturing always been inhabited,
inland, too: the main inland it was first subject
villages of Grohote and Donje to Salona (the rich
Selo are characteristically Salonians built villas and
atmos-pheric Adriatic settle- also sought refuge here
ments of well-preserved stone when their town was
houses and narrow streets. attacked by the Avars), The port at Maslinica on Šolta
ŠOLTA
Rogač Supetar
Maslinica Grohote Škrip Pučišća Povlja

Stomorska
Nerežišća
Milna Selca
BRAČ Sumartin
Bol
Key
Major road 0 kilometres 10
Minor road 0 miles 10

sheltered bay. The exterior of A Dominican Monastery,

the church of the Annunciation founded in 1475, stands on a
of Mary (Gospa od Blagovijesti) headland at the edge of the
is Baroque and the interior is town. The beautiful church is
decorated in the Rococo style. decorated with paintings,
Nerežišća, in the centre of including a Virgin with Saints
the island, was for a long period attributed to Tintoretto. A rich
its main town. The Governor’s treasury includes liturgical
Palace, the Loggia and a objects.
pedestal with the lion of From Bol you can climb up
St Mark are signs of its former Mount St Vitus (Vidova Gora),
status. Also inland is Škrip, a 2-hour walk to one of the
probably the site of the first highest peaks in the Dalmatian
settlement on the island and islands, at 778 m (2,552 ft).
the presumed birthplace of Hidden in a ravine west of Pleasure boats and swimmers on the
Helen, mother of Emperor Mount St Vitus is Blaca southern coast of Brač
Constantine. The church and Hermitage (Pustinja Blaca), a
a painting by Palma il Giovane 16th-century fortified monastery with stone houses straggling
on the main altar are dedicated clinging to the rocky slopes. along the sides of a deep bay.
to Helen. A fortified building Now a museum, the hermitage The quaint port of Sumartin,
houses Brač Museum and contains an absorbing collection on the southeastern corner
exhibits archaeological finds, of religious relics together with of the island, is where ferries
evidence of humankind’s astronomical and other scientific from the mainland resort of
ancient presence on the island. equipment left behind by Makarska arrive. It was founded
The major attraction at Bol, former monks. Walking to Blaca by refugees from the Makarska
on the southern coast, is the is a popular excursion, if a region fleeing the Turks in 1645.
long beach on the western side somewhat hot and dry trek in There is a fine Franciscan
of town (Zlatni rat, meaning summer – it can be approached monastery, the foundations of
Golden Horn), a triangular spit from the north via Nerezišća or which were laid by the poet
of shingle which reaches out from the southeast from Bol. Andrija Kačić Miošić.
into the sea and changes shape There are further attractions
with the seasonal tides. Zlatni along the northern coast and to E Brač Museum
rat gets extremely busy in the east of the island. Along the Škrip. n (021) 637 092.
summer, with excursion boats coast from Supetar, quiet Open summer: 8am–8pm daily;
bringing tourists here from Lovrečina Bay is over-looked by winter: by appt.
resorts all over Brač and from the ruins of the 5th–6th century
E Branislav Dešković Gallery
nearby Hvar island too. It is also Basilica of St Lawrence, a
Put bolskih pomoraca bb, Bol.
a popular spot for windsurfing. pilgrimage site. Lying at the end
n (021) 637 092. Open mid-Jun–
Bol itself is an attractive town, of a long sea inlet, Pučišća is
mid-Sep: 9am–noon, 6–11pm Tue–
arranged around a picturesque the centre of the island’s stone
Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9am–2pm
harbour. Occupying a water- quarrying industry, active since
Tue–Fri.
front building, the Branislav at least Roman times. The blocks
Dešković Gallery displays were loaded onto ships at the E Dominican Monastery
paintings and sculpture by port. Povlja, further east still, is Anđelka Rabadana 4, Bol. n (021)
some of Croatia’s leading one of the island’s most 778 000. Open 10am–noon,
20th-century artists. charming former fishing ports, 5–8pm daily.
Bol’s famous golden beach, changing shape with the tides

p Vis
Further out in the Adriatic than the other Dalmatian islands,
Vis was until 1989 a closed military base. Now gradually being
rediscovered by intrepid travellers, it has a jagged coastline
with beaches, and an inland mountain chain with Mount Hum
reaching a height of 587 m (1,925 ft). The island was chosen
by Dionysios of Syracuse as a base for Greek domination of
the Adriatic. The Greeks founded the town of Issa – now Vis
town – here. Later the island was ruled by the Romans, then
the Byzantines and, from 1420, the Venetians. The island
played a key role during World War II – in 1944 Marshal
Tito used it as a base for co-ordinating partisan military
operations. Crucial meetings between partisans, the Yugoslav
government in exile and the Allies were also held on Vis. The pretty town of Komiža and its
sheltered harbour
Vis Town monument in the form of a a small walled enclosure

The main town of Vis is ranged lion recalls the great sea battle honouring those who died
along the shores of a deep, that took place near here while stationed here during
broad bay. On a hillside behind between the Austrian and both the Napoleonic Wars and
a group of tennis courts are the Italian navies in 1866. World War II. A short walk uphill
remains of an ancient Greek On the southern side of Vis to the north of the town lie
cemetery, where you can see town’s bay is the Renaissance reminders of the early-19th-
the remains of tombstones left church of Our Lady of Spilica century British occupation
by the town’s first inhabitants. (Gospa od Spilica), with a of Vis – the King George III
Further along the north side painting by Girolamo di Fortress and the Bentich
of the bay are remnants of Santacroce. Occupying a Tower. Both are empty shells
Roman mosaics, once part former Austrian gun battery today, but are set in beautiful
of a 2nd-century baths is the Town Museum, with a countryside with good views.
complex. Just beyond, the rich collection of Greek and
Franciscan Monastery Church Roman vases and amphorae. E Town Museum
sits on a small peninsula Further north, the suburb of Gospina batarija. n (021) 711 729.
bordered by pebble beaches. Kut is a charming warren of Open Jun–Sep: 9am–1pm, 5–9pm
Also on the peninsula is the alleyways and piazzas. Beyond Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat; Oct–May:
town’s graveyard, where a Kut lies the British Cemetery, by appt for groups only.
Key
Minor road
Stončica
Vis
Komiža VIS
Podstražje
BIŠEVO
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3

Komiža VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

On the western side of the
island lies Komiža, a quaint Practical Information
port long associated with the Road Map D6. * 4,300.
anchovy-fishing industry. Lined Vis town: n Šetalište stare Isse 5,
with handsome stone houses, (021) 717 017. ∑ tz-vis.hr
Komiža harbour is one of the Komiža: n (021) 713 455.
∑ tz-komiza.hr
most attractive in the Adriatic.
Right on the quayside. A defen- Transport
sive tower, built by the Venetians 4 from Split and Hvar;
and known as the Kaštel, is righ Jadrolinija, (021) 711 032.
on the quayside. It now houses
the Fishing Museum, which
commemorates the swift Falkuša outside Plisko Polje were used
sailing boats unique to this town to create a landing strip during
that were once used to bring in The Kaštel, a fortified lookout tower built World War II so that Allied
the local catch. On the north by the Venetians at Komiža planes could supply Tito’s
side of the bay is the 16th- partisans, although the site
century Church of Our Lady of be reached either by road or is now largely covered by
the Pirates (Gospa Gusarica), by hiking path from Komiža. vineyards. One part of the
so-called because, legend has Superb views can be enjoyed former landing strip is occupied
it, a band of pirates who had from the summit, and by Croatia’s only cricket pitch –
stolen its wooden image of the adventure-sports enthusiasts built by enthusiastic locals who
Madonna were swiftly killed in use it as a base for hang-gliding. emigrated to Australia and
a shipwreck, while the statue On the eastern side of the returned home with a love of
floated safely back to shore. summit is Tito’s Cave (Titova the sport. South of Plisko Polje,
It has an unusual triple-nave špilja) where the World War II tracks lead to the enchanting
layout. Just inland from the partisan leader Josip Broz Tito coves of Stiniva and Mala
town centre, the Benedictine based his HQ for several months Travna, both hugely popular
Monastery sits on a small hill, in mid-1944. It was here that with bathers despite being
fortified by defensive bastions Tito’s army planned the quite hard to reach – many
and flanked by vineyards. re-conquest of German- trippers come on excursion
Komiža’s best beaches lie south, occupied Dalmatia. The cave boats from Vis town or Komiža.
where there is a series of coves. is frequently open to visitors
over the summer, although Environs
E Fishing Museum you should check with Komiža The starkly beautiful island
Riva svetog Mikule. Open Jun–Sep: tourist office to make sure. of Biševo, to the southwest
11am–noon, 7–10pm Mon-Sat, of Vis, is sparsely inhabited
7–10pm Sun. Plisko Polje and cannot be reached
Plisko Polje is the main inland by regular ferry transport.
Mount Hum village on the south side of the It is a popular destination for
Looming above Komiža is island, where fertile fields yield boat excursions because of
Vis’s highest point, Mount Hum some of the Adriatic’s best its Blue Grotto (Modra špilja),
(587 m/1,925 ft), which can Plavac wine, a dry red. The fields a cave where the water takes
on beautiful colours. This
mesmerising effect is produced
by sunlight shining into the
cave through a slightly
submerged aperture. The
grotto can only be reached
by boat: day trips depart
from Komiža in the morning
(contact the tourist office
or any of the private tourist
agencies near Komiža harbour).
Many boat trips to the
grotto also allow visitors a
few free hours on the island
of Biševo itself. A monastery was
built here in around 1000 AD,
which resisted raids by pirates
and Saracens for 200 years.
The ruins remain, along with
A small boat from a Komiža hotel, taking visitors to Biševo island a 12th-century church.
a Hvar
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story
begins in the 4th century BC when the Greeks from Paros
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar
town). Traces have been left by the Romans, the Byzantines, the
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria-
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of of St Stephen
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically which he vividly describes a
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. fishing trip around the islands
of Hvar, Brač and Šolta. He
began building the Tvrdalj in
1514, intending for it to be both
a palatial private house and a
fortified sanctuary into which
the local population could
retreat should there be an
attack by pirates. The Tvrdalj was
intended to be a self-sustaining
unit, with a garden, a dovecote
and a seawater fishpond were
included within its walls.
Hektorović placed philosophical
inscriptions in Latin on the walls
of the Tvrdalj, turning his home
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad into a unique monument to
Renaissance humanist thought.
Hvar Town a picturesque old quarter of low Nearby is Stari Grad
See pp132–3. stone houses and tiny streets. Museum, housed in the
The 17th-century parish Church Renaissance Biankini Palace.
Stari Grad of St Stephen (Sv. Stjepan), It contains a stunning collection
Founded by the Syracusans with its free-standing Venetian- of Greek amphorae, some
in the 4th century BC and style bell tower, is the principal beautifully restored period
originally called Pharos, Stari landmark. At the western end rooms, and a picture gallery
Grad (literally, the Old Town) of the old quarter is the Tvrdalj, devoted to local artists, includ-
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, the fortified residence of ing the gifted, Paris-trained Juraj
despite having lost its political Renaissance poet Petar Plančić (1899–1930). The Moira
and cultural importance to Hvar Hektorović . Hektorović is best Gallery at Vagonj 1 shows
town. Stari Grad lies at the end known as the author of Ribanje i contemporary art and contains
of a long bay and the main ribarsko prigovaranje (Fishing and fragments of Roman mosaic
sights are scattered throughout Fishermen’s Conversation) in in the floor.
Stari Grad Vrboska

SVETI KLEMENT Jelsa
Poljica
Hvar H VA R
PAKLENI ISLANDS
Zavala
ŠĆEDRO
Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Stjepana 42, (021) 741 059. Stari
Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana
1, (021) 765 763. Sućuraj: (021)
717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr
Transport
4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
(021) 773 228.
On the edge of the old E Tvrdalj
quarter is the Dominican Priko bb. Open May, Jun & Sep:
Monastery (Dominikanski 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
samostan), founded by Brother 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
Germano of Piacenza in 1482 E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
and rebuilt and fortified after Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow
destruction by Uluz Ali, the 324. Open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
Ottoman corsair who raided 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
the Adriatic islands in 1571. The 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, the 16th-century Church of
most feared sea captain of his 7–9pm Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. St Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified
time, Uluz Ali was driven away R Dominican Monastery with huge buttresses to provide
by the stubborn defenders of Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
Korčula, and came to pillage Open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of
the less well-defended island daily; Oct–May: by appt. St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
of Hvar instead. As well as a ptych on the main altar by Paolo
beautiful cloister, the monastery Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin
has a library rich in medieval A traditional Dalmatian stone- of the Rosary by Leandro da
incunabula, and a collection of built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is
paintings including a Deposition harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
by Tintoretto. The monastery for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
church contains the grave of beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
Immediately east of Stari Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced Zavala
that still preserves the field in the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of
plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is through a famously low and
modern counterparts do today, Trg svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
but also grew wheat. Added piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
to the UNESCO World Heritage octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
list in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
Sućuraj
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its pretty
Sućuraj harbour boasts the remains of a
Bogomolje fortress built by the Venetians in
1630. Nearby, Mlaska Bay and
Key
Perna Bay are two of Hvar’s best
0 kilometres 5 Major road beaches, with clear shallow
0 miles 5 Minor road water over fine sand.
Exploring Hvar Town deliberate attempt to lessen

social conflict between
Thanks to its wonderfully preserved Renaissance centre, aristocrats and plebeians. The
Hvar town is one of the most visited on the Dalmatian coast. plush interior has been well
It has long been popular with Croatian artists and celebrities, preserved and art exhibitions
are held in the foyer. There are
lending it a chic ambience reflected in the growing number of
fine views of town from the
stylish restaurants, bars and hotels. Much frequented by luxury theatre’s balustraded terrace.
yachts and boats in summer, Hvar’s harbourside is one of the Diagonally opposite the
most glamorous in the Adriatic. Hvar town did not become Arsenal, the Renaissance clock
the main town on the island until the 15th century, when tower and loggia are all that
Venetian governors decided that the harbour was easier to remains of the Rector’s Palace,
where the administrator
defend than the one at Stari Grad, and ordered all the island’s appointed by the Venetian
noble families to move here. Hvar town became one of the Republic once held sway. The
most important ports for Venetian fleets going to and from rest of the palace was demolished
the Orient, bringing an upsurge in trade and wealth. Cultural in 1900 to make way for the
life and monastic orders also flourished. Hotel Elisabeth, since renamed
Hotel Palace (see p228).
P Hektorović Palace
Hektorovićeva palaĉa
North of the main square is
a very ancient quarter of the
town called Groda, consisting
of stone houses and narrow
alleys clinging to a sharply
rising hillside. The most
prominent landmark here is
the Hektorović Palace, an
unfinished building project
by the15th-century poet Petar
Hektorović (see pp130–31).
It is easily recognized by its
beautiful Venetian-Gothic
mullioned windows.
Cafés on the main square, with the cathedral in the background
R Benedictine Convent
R Cathedral of On the south side of the Benediktini samostan
St Stephen square, the Arsenal was built in Groda bb. Tel (021) 741 052.
Katedrala sv. Stjepana the late 16th century as a dry Open 10am–noon, 5–7pm
Trg svetog Stjepana. Tel (021) 743 dock for Venetian war galleys. Mon–Sat.
107. Cathedral Treasury: Open A theatre built on the first floor Just behind the Hektorović
summer: 9am–noon, 5–7pm daily; in 1612 is one of the oldest in Palace is a Benedictine convent
winter: by appt. Europe. The theatre was open founded in 1664 that houses a
Dominating Hvar’s harbourside to people of all classes in a secluded community of nuns
main square, Trg svetog who still make, display and sell
Stjepana, the Renaissance traditional Hvar lace, made by
cathedral has a trefoil pediment weaving fibres extracted from
and a 17th-century bell tower the spiky agave plants that can
standing to one side. The be seen all over the island.
interior houses many works of
art: a Virgin and Saints by Palma + Citadel
il Giovane (1544–1628), a Pietà Open Apr & May: 10am–4pm daily;
by Juan Boschetus, Virgin with Jun–Sep: 10am–10pm daily
Saints by Domenico Uberti and Paths ascend from the Groda
a fine 16th-century wooden district to the 16th-century
choir. The cathedral treasury Citadel on the hill above town,
boasts a rich collection of known locally as Španjola
reliquaries and silverware. because it was built by Spanish
architects who specialized in
P Arsenal fortification work. Superb views
Trg svetog Stjepana. Closed for Open to the sky, the Gothic windows of the of the surrounding coast are
restoration until late 2017. Hektorović Palace, never completed offered by the citadel’s ramparts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and p240–45
R Church of St Mark
Crkva svetog Marka
Visible all over town is the
belfry of the former Dominican
monastery’s Church of St Mark,
west of the main square. The
monastery was an important
centre of culture during the
Renaissance. It was here that
friar Vinko Pribojević gave a
famous speech on the Origins
of the Slavs in 1525, proposing
not only that the Slav peoples
of Europe were ethnically
related but also that they all
originally came from the Popular with locals, Mlini beach on the Pakleni Islands
Croatian Adriatic.
da Bassano, and six scenes walking and sailing destinations
R Franciscan Monastery inspired by the Passion of throughout the summer
Franjevaĉki samostan Christ by Martin Benetović. season. Their name derives from
Križa bb. Tel (021) 741 193. The grave of Renaissance the resin (paklina) that was at
Open May–Oct: 9am–noon daily; poet Hanibal Lucić can be seen one time extracted from the
Nov–Apr: 11am–noon daily. on the floor of the nave. There pines and used to waterproof
The monastery, dating from are also many works of art in the fishing boats.
1461, is located along the rooms facing the cloister. The During the summer boat
coastal path south of the Old Mannerist painting of the Last trips to the islands depart
Town. The monastery’s Church Supper in the refectory is of regularly from Hvar. Sveti
of Our Lady of Charity (Gospa uncertain attribution – possibly Klement is the largest of the
od Milosti), with a relief on the the work of Matteo Ingoli, islands and has most to offer
façade by Nikola Firentinac, also Matteo Ponzone or the school in terms of beaches, walking
contains two paintings by of Palma il Giovane. trails and restaurants.
Palma il Giovane (of St Francis Marinkovac also has good
Receiving the Stigmata and Environs beaches and a popular yachting
St Diego), three polyptychs The sparsely inhabited Pakleni marina. Be aware that the
by Francesco da Santacroce, a Islands, just off the coast from nearest island, Jerolim, is given
Christ on the Cross by Leandro Hvar town, are popular bathing, over to naturism.
Hvar
1 Cathedral of St Stephen Citadel
2 Arsenal
H I G I J E N IČ K O
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0 metres 300
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Monastery
Pakleni
Islands

churches in Dalmatia. It has

a single nave, a dome, and
remains from the early Christian
period incorporated into
the walls.
Environs
The Cetina Valley Nature
Park, immediately behind
Omiš, shelters a river which
flows into the artificial lake of
Peruča. The river runs out of the
lake and parallel to the coast
for some distance and then,
near Zadvarje, abruptly turns
and cascades down before
flowing into a narrow gorge.
Boating on the river in the Cetina Valley Nature Park This beautiful natural
environment, with its myriad
s Omiš One is the Renaissance Church bird species, can be explored
of St Michael (Sv. Mihovil) with on foot or by bicycle, but the
Map D5. * 6,000. @ (021) 864 210.
4 (021) 861 025. n Trg kneza a pointed bell tower, originally most popular way to see it is
Miroslava bb, (021) 861 350. a defensive structure. Inside is a to take one of the many boats
_ Festival klapa (Jul). ∑ visitomis.hr 16th-century wooden altar, a through the park.
large 13th-century wooden
In the late Middle Ages Omiš cross and two paintings by
was known as the residence of Matteo Ingoli of Ravenna d Makarska
the terrifying corsairs who (1587–1631). At the end of
Map E5. * 14,000. @ Ulica Ante
fought fiercely against the main road is the 16th-
Starčevića 30, (021) 612 333. 4 Obala
Venetian rule from the century Oratory of kralja Tomislava 1a, (021) 611 977.
12th century until the Holy Spirit (Sv. n Obala kralja Tomislava 16, (021)
1444, when the town Duh) with Descent 612 002. ∑ makarska-info.hr
fell to Venice. Today it of the Holy Spirit by
is a peaceful holiday Palma il Giovane The Makarska coast extends
resort with some (1544–1628). from Brela to Gradac and
light industry along However, the includes a long stretch of shore
the coast, and the most fascinating with lush vegetation sheltered
starting point for Church of St Peter in Priko, monument here by the Biokovo massif.
visits to the valley a district of Omiš is in Priko, on the Makarska, one of Dalmatia’s
of the River Cetina. oppo site bank most popular mainland resorts,
In July, the Dalmatinksa Klapa of the River Cetina. This is the lies within a bay sheltered by
festival attracts many visitors 10th-century Church of St Peter the peninsula of St Peter’s.
who come to hear Klapa, a (Sv. Petar), one of the most The town was the site of the
kind of plainsong traditional to appealing pre-Romanesque Roman Mucurum, which was
Dalmatia. It is still very popular,
even among the young.
Only a few traces of the
Roman municipium of
Onaeum remain but many
of the medieval defences built
by the counts of Kačić and Bribir
are still visible on a hill, once
the site of the Old Town, or Stari
grad. These consist of the walls
going down to the River Cetina
and also the ruins of a large
fort (Fortica) with its distinctive
high tower. From the fort, built
between the 16th and the 17th
centuries, there is a splendid
view of Omiš and the central
Dalmatian islands.
There are three interesting
religious buildings in the town. The Makarska coast, with white beaches and a mountainous backdrop
destroyed by the Goths in 548,

and rebuilt at a later date. It
belonged to the Kingdom of
Croatia until 1499, when it
was conquered by the Turks,
for whom it was a port and
trading centre until 1646, the
beginning of Venetian rule.
There are two ancient
monasteries in Makarska. St
Philip Neri (Sv. Filipa Nerija) was
built in 1757, and has medieval
and Roman-era fragments in
the cloister. The Franciscan
monastery (Franjevački
Samostan), built in 1614 on the
foundations of a 15th-century The beach at Gradac, one of the longest in the eastern Adriatic
monastery, houses the
Malacological Museum (4 miles) long, the beach is lined folklore collection, an art gallery,
(Malakološki muzej), with a with hotels and campsites. and a library and archive where
collection of mollusc shells. In the town itself there are documents about the period
The centre of the modern two large 17th-century towers of Turkish occupation are kept.
town is the square called while nearby, in Crkvine, the The Dalmatian scholar Andrija
Brother Andrija Kačić Miošić, remains of a Roman staging Kačić Miošić (1704–60) lived
dedicated to the 18th-century post between Mucurum (the and died in the monastery.
Dalmatian scholar and author present-day Makarska) and Around 20 km (12 miles) from
of theological and philosophical Narona (see p136) have been Gradac, towards Makarska, is
works. Two seafront promenades found. Gradac gets its name Živogošće, one of the oldest
extend towards the wide from the fort (grad) built in the settlements on the Makarska
beaches and Kalelarga, where 17th century to defend against coast. Today it is a busy tourist
there are 18th-century buildings. the Turks. resort, but it was once famous
for a spring which flowed from
E Malacological Museum Environs the rocks.
Franjevački put 1. Tel (021) 611 256. west of Gradac, is a Franciscan A Franciscan monastery
monastery (Franjevački was founded near this spring in
samostan) founded in the 1616, and its beautiful church
f Gradac 16th century and completed boasts an ornate Baroque altar.
a century later. The façade of the The monastery is famous for
Map E5. * 1,200.
n (021) 697 375 (high season only).
church has an inscription its well-stocked library and
∑ gradac.hr written in Cyrillic script. In the archives, which are the main
rooms around the beautiful source for the study of the area
This town’s fame and popularity cloister there is a fascinating around the Biokovo massif.
are due to the fact that it has
one of the longest beaches in
the eastern Adriatic. Over 6 km The Vineyards
of Dalmatia
Vines are grown all
along the coast of
Dalmatia, and on
many of the islands.
Vineyards first start
appearing around
Primošten, near Trogir
Vines protected by dry-stone walls
(see p113), where the
good quality red wine Babić is made, and become part of the
landscape along the Makarska coast. Built on stony hillsides,
these vineyards are often “fortified” with low dry-stone walls,
painstakingly constructed with geometrical precision by peasant
farmers. Low-growing vines cultivated inside the walls are protected
from the cold north winds and kept cool in the hot summer months.
A monument to human toil, the result of immense patience and
effort, without these walls it would notbe possible to cultivate this
The Franciscan monastery, Makarska, difficult ground.
now a museum
Delta of the River Neretva in Opuzen, drained and turned into fertile fields
g Opuzen h Narona village stands on much of the site

of ancient Narona, 3 km (2 miles)
Map E6. * 3,250. @ Metković, Map E6. @ Metković, (060) 365 365.
(060) 365 365. n Trg kralja n (020) 691 596. ∑ a-m-narona.hr from Metković. In the museum
Tomislava 1, (020) 671 139. are statues of Roman emperors
∑ opuzen.hr The ancient Roman town of and their families, as well as
Colonia Julia Narona was pottery, glassware, weapons,
At the edges of the delta of founded by the Romans in the jewels and stone monuments
the River Neretva, where the 1st century BC. It was an impor- that were found in Narona. A part
road leaves the Magistrala tant road junction and a trading of the collection is also on display
coast road (E65) and climbs centre with the Adriatic hinter- at the Archaeological Museum
the river valley, stands Opuzen. land and the region of today’s Split (see p125).
For centuries it was fortified Bosnia-Herzegovina, and had The 16th-century Church
and has always been temples, baths, a theatre and of St Vitus (Sv. Vid) stands just
considered something other buildings grouped around outside the town on the site of
of a border town. the Forum. A walled town, it was a 5th-century church, of which
Towards the end of one of the first dioceses in the only parts of the apse remain.
the 15th century, the Balkans and flourished
Hungarian-Croat king, until the 7th century
Matthias Corvinus, built when it was occupied j Neum
the fort of Koš here. It and destroyed by the
Bosnia-Herzegovina. Map E6.
was captured by the Avars and the Slavs. * 2,500. @ Metković, (060) 365 365.
Turks in 1490 who ruled At the end of the 19th ∑ neum.ba
until 1686, when it century, after a few chance
came under Venetian discoveries, the Austrian All the buses running along the
rule. There are also archaeologist Karl Patsch coastal road between Split and
traces of a 13th- began to carry out Dubrovnik pass through the 9-km
century castle built Head of Emperor Vespasian, excavations. Work (5-mile) stretch of coast that is
by the Republic of now in Vid’s Museum continued after part of Bosnia-Herzegovina. The
Dubrovnik and the World War II and main town in this area is Neum,
remains of a fort (Fort Opus), uncovered objects from pagan which is a holiday resort and
built by the Venetians to and Christian temples, houses Bosnia’s only coastal town. Prices
defend the border of their and public works. In 1995, a are cheaper here than in Croatia,
territories. The town takes its particularly fine temple was and as a result it is a popular
name from this fort and the discovered. Large parts of the place for Croatians to stop off
ruins can be seen on the area have still to be explored, and go shopping.
eastern side of town. but it is possible to get an idea Neum is a border town, and
On the main square are some of the importance of the town visitors should carry passports.
fragments discovered in the by visiting the Archaeological There are several hotels and
ancient town of Narona. Museum Narona in Vid. This tourist facilities.
k Pelješac slope until they reach Mali

Peninsula Ston. The 41 towers, seven
bastions and two forts make
Map E6. @ Metković, (060) 365 365. this one of the largest and most
Ston: * 580. 4 (020) 754 026. interesting defensive structures
n Pelješka cesta 2, (020) 754 452.
in the Adriatic and indeed
∑ ston.hr Orebić: * 2,500.
the world. Some of the best
4 (020) 743 542 (Trpanj). n Zrinsko
military architects, such as
Frankopanska 2, (020) 713 718.
∑ visitorebic-croatia.hr Michelozzo Michelozzi, Župan
Bunić, Bernardino of Parma,
The peninsula of Pelješac juts Juraj Dalmatinac and Paskoje
out 65 km (40 miles) from the Miličević, contributed to its
mainland, but it is only 7 km design and construction.
(4 miles) wide at its broadest The walls have been under
point. A mountain chain forms renovation since 2001. The
its backbone, which peaks at work on a section from Ston Franciscan monastery between Orebić
Mount St Elijah (961 m/3,152 ft). to Mali Ston has been finished and Lovište
The slopes and plain are and it takes about 45 minutes
covered with vineyards and to walk the route. Orebić
fruit trees, and the shallow The main structures are at Towards the tip of the peninsula,
coastal waters are given over Veliki Ston, which is built on Orebić is the boarding point
to oyster farming. an irregular pentagonal ground for ferries to Korčula. It has a
The peninsula was first plan. The buildings include the Maritime Museum (Pomorski
colonized by the Greeks, then largest fort (Veliki Kaštio); the muzej), which illustrates the
by the Romans and later by the Neo-Gothic Church of St Blaise history of its inhabitants, who
Byzantines. From 1333 to 1808 (Sv. Vlaho), built in 1870 to were the most sought-after sea
it belonged to Dubrovnik. replace a cathedral from the captains in the Mediterranean.
14th century which was At the end of their careers these
destroyed by the earthquake seamen invested in villas along
of 1850; the Governor’s Palace the coast or in the hills.
(Knežev dvor), enlarged in the Just outside the village,
same century, and the Bishop’s towards Lovište, is a massive
Palace (1573). The Church and Franciscan Monastery
Franciscan Monastery of St (Franjevački samostan), founded
Nicholas (Sv. Nikola) was built in the 15th century. In the
between the end of the 14th church alongside are two reliefs:
century and the 16th century. one is a Virgin with Child by
Mali Ston, the other focus of Nikola Firentinac (1501), who
the town, is dominated by Fort was a pupil of Donatello.
Koruna, which dates from 1347,
with two arsenals and a fortified E Maritime Museum
The Pelješac coast, a centre for warehouse for storing salt. There Trg Mimbelli bb. Tel (020) 713 009.
oyster farming are wonderful views across Open Jun–Sep: 7am–10pm Mon–
the peninsula to the north of Fri, 6–10pm Sat & Sun; Oct–May:
Ston the town from here. 7am–3pm Mon–Fri. &
The town closest to the
mainland, Ston was formerly
called Stagnum because of its
shallow waters. There have been
salt pans here since the time of
the Romans, who built a castrum
on the site. It was enclosed by
walls prior to 1000 AD.
The present defensive
walls, still impressive above
the town, were begun in the
14th century and completed
in the 15th century on orders
from Dubrovnik. There are
more than 5 km (3 miles) of
walls climbing from Veliki Ston,
the main heart of the town,
to St Michael’s Mount and
descending the opposite Overlooking the circle of walls connecting the two parts of Ston
l Korčula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Dense forests of Aleppo pine, cypress and oak are found all Practical Information
over this island, one of the largest in the Adriatic at 47 km Map E6. * 17,000. n Obala dr.
Tuđmana 4, Korčula, (020) 715
(29 miles) long. Mountains run the length of the island, 701. _ Moreška, Jun & Sep: 9pm
reaching 560 m (1,837 ft) at their peak. Inhabited since Thu; Jul & Aug: 9pm Mon & Thu.
prehistoric times, the Greeks named the island Korkyra Lumbarda: n (020) 712 005.
Melaina (Black Corfu). After 1000 AD, it was fought over by Blato: n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4,
(020) 851 850. _ St Vincenca’s
Venice and the Croat kings and later by the Genoese and the Day (28 Apr). n Vela Luka: Obala
Turks (in the 1298 naval battle between Genoa and Venice, 3 br 19, (020) 813 619. ∑ visit
the Genoese captured Marco Polo, said to be a native of the korcula.eu ∑ tzvelaluka.hr
island). Today it is a popular holiday spot for its cliffs and Transport
sandy beaches, its villages and Korčula, its main town. 4 from Orebić, Split and Rijeka.
Korčula: @ (020) 711 216.
4 Vela Luka: (020) 715 410.
4 (020) 812 023.
main road are designed to lessen
the impact of the bora wind.
Facing Trg sv. Marka, the paintings include St Mark with
central square, is the town’s St Jerome and St Bartholomew
main monument: the 14th- by Tintoretto. On a wall are
century Cathedral of St Mark trophies recalling the Battle
(Katedrala Sv. Marka), built in of Lepanto of 1571.
pale, honey-coloured stone. Next to the cathedral, in the
Most of it dates from the end Bishop’s Palace, now the Abbot’s
of the 15th century. The skill of House, is the Abbey Treasury
Korčula’s sculptors and stone (Opatska riznica), which is
masons is evident in the door, particularly known for its
where two lions guard the Dalmatian and Venetian art,
entrance, decorated with thin including a polyptych by Blaž
spiral columns and a lunette
with the figure of St Mark,
Land Gate, main entrance to the Old Town attributed to Bonino of Milan.
of Korčula Two further doors open onto
side aisles. On the left stands an
Korčula Town imposing, 30-m (100-ft) bell
The town sits atop a peninsula, tower, which visitors may climb.
surrounded by strong 13th- Inside are large columns with
century walls, reinforced with elaborately decorated capitals
towers and bastions by the and several important sculptural
Venetians after 1420. The whole works: a 15th-century holy
town is enchanting. The Land water stoup, a font from the
Gate (Kopnena vrata) was 17th century, and the tomb
fortified by a huge tower, the of Bishop Toma Malumbra,
Revelin, which overlooked a attributed to the workshop of
canal dug by the Venetians to Marko Andrijić, who also made
isolate the town. There are the ciborium in the presbytery
now steps in this area. Narrow in 1481. There is also a statue of Impressive entrance to the Gothic Cathedral
streets branching off the St Blaise by Ivan Meštrović. The of St Mark, Korčula
PRO I ZD
Prigradica
Vela Luka
Blato
Potirna
Key Prižba Brna
Major road
Minor road
KORČULA  139
Korčula, the main town on the island, on an isthmus on the northeast coast
of Trogir, two altar paintings by Donner, and a 15th-century

Pellegrino of San Daniele, a polyptych by Blaž of Trogir. Ancient Dances
Sacred Conversation by Titian, In the nearby quarters of and Festivals
a Portrait of a Man by Vittore the confraternity is the Icon The Moreška and the
Carpaccio and an Annunciation Collection (Kolekcija Ikona), Kumpanija are Korčula’s two
by Titian. A door by Bonino of which is famous for its rich most noted folk festivals.
Milan decorates the Gothic collection of Byzantine icons Officially, the Moreška sword
Church of St Peter (Sv. Petar) to from the 13th to 15th dance takes place in Korčula on
the left of the cathedral. Facing centuries, many from Crete. 29 July, the patron saint’s day
St Peter are the Gothic Arneri Outside the walls are the (St Theodore). However, it is
Palace and the Renaissance Church and Monastery of repeated on Mondays and
Gabriellis Palace (16th century). St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola), from Thursdays during the summer
The latter has been the Town the 15th century, with many for tourists. It commemorates
Museum (Gradski muzej) since paintings by Dalmatian and the clash between Christians
1957 and contains documents Italian artists. and Moors in the attempt to
on Korčula’s seafaring history, free a girl kidnapped by the
infidels. In Blato, the Kumpanjija
an interesting archaeological E Abbey Treasury
Trg sv. Marka. n (020) 711 049. dance is dedicated to the
section covering the period
Open call for information. & patron saint, St Vincenca, and
from prehistoric to Roman is celebrated with drum music.
times and other works of art. E Town Museum At the end of the battle, girls
Along the seafront is Trg sv. Marka. Tel (020) 711 420. in bright costumes appear,
All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), Open Apr–Jun: 10am–2pm Mon–Sat; accompanied by pipes and
built in 1301 and remodelled Jul–Sep: 9am–9pm Mon–Sat; Oct– drums. The dance takes place in
in the Baroque style, which Mar: 10am–1pm; by appt Sun. front of the church on 28 April
belongs to the oldest E Icon Collection and is performed once a week
confraternity on the island. Trg Svih Svetih. n (020) 711 306 for tourists who visit Blato.
Inside is an 18th-century or (091) 883 3879. Open summer:
carved wooden Pietà, by the 10am–2pm, 5–8pm Mon–Sat; Sun
Austrian artist George Raphael & winter: by appt.
Račišće
Korčula
KORČULA Pupnat
Žrnovo Lumbarda
Pupnatska Luka
Čara
Zavalatica
0 kilometres 5
Two Moreškants performing the
ancient Moreška sword dance
0 miles 5

and, in the chapel, the relics

of the martyr St Vincenca, the
object of veneration in the local
community. The cemetery
church of the Holy Cross and
that of St Jerome date from the
14th century.
Vela Luka
Situated about 45 km (28 miles)
west of Korčula is Vela Luka,
called “the oldest and the
newest town”, because it was
built at the beginning of the
The serene coastline of Lumbarda 19th century on the Neolithic
site of Vela Spilja. It is one of the
Lumbarda Arneri Castle, where the Civic largest towns on the island and
Lumbarda is a village 6 km Museum documenting local industries coexist with attractive
(4 miles) southeast of the town history is being set up, and bays and numerous islands.
of Korčula and is thought to All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), The hills surrounding the
have been founded by Greeks of medieval origin. This church town shelter this area from the
from Vis. It was called Eraclea by was enlarged and rebuilt in winds from the north and south.
the Romans. In the 16th century the 17th century and has an Vela Luka is also the main port
it became a holiday resort for altarpiece of the Virgin with Child on the island and there are
the nobles of Korčula. Some and Saints on the main altar by regular ferry services to Split
inscriptions from the Greek Girolamo di Santacroce (1540) and Lastovo.
period are now in the
Archaeological Museum
of Zagreb (see pp168–9).
Today this village is one of the
centres of production for the
liqueur-like white wine called
Grk, which is made from grapes
of the same name grown in the
sand. The nearby small beaches
are havens of tranquillity.
Blato
In the central square of Blato, a
town where the festival of the
Kumpanija (see p139) is held
every April, are an 18th-century
Baroque loggia, the Renaissance Lumbarda on the island of Korčula, one of the greenest in the Adriatic
The Stone of Dalmatia

The excellent quality of the stone in the Dalmatian
islands was known to the Romans, who used it to build
the monuments of Salona and Diocletian’s Palace in
Split. On Brač, the old Roman quarries are still visible
in Pučišća. Brač stone was used for the cathedral in Šibenik
(see pp110–11), for which Juraj Dalmatinac devised a method
of cutting the stone so that blocks interlocked without
mortar. Most of the palaces and churches in Venice are also
made of Dalmatian stone. Further afield, part of the White
House in Washington and the Royal Palace in Stockholm
were faced with stone from Brač. In Korčula, quarrying
ceased long ago, and stone cutting skills have largely
died out. However, the quarries on the small island of
Vrnik, facing Korčula, are still active and stone from here
was used in the church of St Sophia in Istanbul, the
Duke’s Palace in Dubrovnik and the United Nations
Ancient Roman quarries, Brač building in New York.
a military area and thus closed

to tourists. The island is 9 km
(5 miles) long and about 6 km
(4 miles) wide. Although it is
mostly mountainous terrain
(Mount Hum reaches a height
of 417 m/1,368 ft), vines, olives
and fruit are cultivated on the
terraced slopes. The coast is
rocky apart from the bay close
to the town of Lastovo.
Traces of the long period of
rule by Dubrovnik (1252–1808)
are visible in the upper part
Franciscan church and monastery on the island of Badija of the town and in the fort,
built by the French in 1819
z Badija cloister is a good example on the site of an earlier castle
Map E6. 4 taxi-boats from Korčula.
of Gothic architecture at its destroyed by Dubrovnik in 1606.
∑ badija.com most charming, with columns A church from the 14th
and arches. century and a 16th-century
This is the largest of the loggia stand in the main
small islands, 1 sq km square. Religious festivals
(0.4 sq m), in the archipelago are celebrated here.
surrounding the island of Mention of the small Church
Korčula, and is covered with of St Blaise (Sv. Vlaho), situated
pines and cypress trees. It takes at the entrance to the village,
its name from the Franciscan is found in 12th-century
monastery built here in 1392 documents. Also of ancient
for a community of monks origins, in the cemetery, is the
who had fled from Bosnia. The Romanesque Oratory of Our
monastery and church were The Loggia in the main square in Lastovo, Lady in the Field (Gospa od
enlarged in the following a venue for festivals Polja) from the 15th century.
century and remained the Remnants of buildings and rustic
property of the religious x Lastovo villas testify to the presence of
community until 1950, when the Romans on the island. The
Map E6. * 800. 4 from Vela Luka
it became a sports resort. lack of tourism has helped to
(island of Korčula), Dubrovnik during
The church, whose summer and from Split. Harbour preserve the old buildings.
furnishings have been Master: (020) 805 006. n Pjevor bb, Religious holidays are very
transferred to the Civic (020) 801 018. ∑ lastovo.hr popular and celebrated with
Museum and the cathedral in traditional dances with antique
Korčula, has a façade in pale- The island of Lastovo, musical instruments. The locals
coloured stone and a large surrounded by about 40 small wear brightly coloured
central rose window. The islands and rocky outcrops, was traditional costumes.
Cluster of houses in the town of Lastovo

c Mljet National Park

Nacionalni park Mljet
The island of Mljet, called Melita by the Romans and
Meleda by the Venetians, covers an area of 98 sq km
(37 sq miles). It is mountainous, with two limestone
depressions in which there are two saltwater lakes linked
by a channel. In Roman times Mljet was the holiday resort
of the wealthy of Salona, who built villas here. Some ruins
can still be seen. In 1151, Duke Desa gave the island to the
Benedictines of Pulsano in Gargano (Italy), who founded
a monastery here. Two centuries later Stjepan, the Ban
(governor) of Bosnia, gave it to Dubrovnik, to which it
Roman Palatium
belonged until 1815. In 1960 the western part was
In Polače lie the ruins of a Roman
declared a national park to save the forest of Aleppo settlement named Palatium, including
pine and holm oak. the remains of a large villa and an
early Christian basilica and thermae.
Pomena
•
Goveđari Polače Kozarica
Mijet
National
Soline Park
Blato
Monastery of St Mary
In the centre of Big Lake (Veliko Jezero) is a
small island with a 12th-century Benedictine
monastery, remodelled in the 1500s. Although
currently being restored, it can still be visited.
Big Lake (Veliko jezero)

The lake covers an area of 1.45 sq km (320 acres) and
reaches a depth of 46 m (150 ft). A channel links the lake
to the sea, and another channel links it to a smaller lake,
Malo jezero.
National Park
The area of 31 sq km (12 sq miles)
is almost entirely forested.
The park is home to wild boar, 0 kilometres 3
deer, hares, lizards and many
0 miles 3
bird species.
Map E6. * 1,300.
Goveđari: n Polače, Tourist
office: (020) 744 186. National
Park: (020) 744 041. & 8
∑ mljet.hr ∑ np-mljet.hr
Transport
4 from Dubrovnik.
The park can be visited on foot
or by bicycle following the trails.
Marine Life Boats must be authorized – call
Dozens of species of fish, including grouper, inhabit the information office for details.
underwater ravines and caves along the coast. The most
valued creature is the endangered monk seal, protected
in these waters.
Saplunara
Saplunara lies at the
The village of Babino Polje southernmost point of
was founded in around the the island and boasts the
middle of the 10th century by most beautiful beach in
a group of refugees from the the area. It has been
mainland. The governor’s declared a nature reserve
residence was built in 1554 for its lush vegetation.
when the island became part
of the territory of the Republic
of Ragusa (now Dubrovnik).
Sobra
Prožura
• Okuklje
MLJET Korita
Maranovići
Saplunara
Uninhabited Islands
Nature is left undisturbed on these islands, with
woods of pine, holm oak and oak going right
down to the rocky shore.
Key
Fishing Villages
Minor road The island’s ancient stone
Path villages are inhabited mainly by
Park border farmers and fishermen. These
villages and the delightful bays
and coves around the island
are lovely places in which
to spend time.
For keys to symbols see back flap Zlatni rat beach on the island of Brač
v Street-by-Street: Dubrovnik
Set in the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik
had been, until war broke out in 1991, one of the top
international tourist destinations of Dalmatia, renowned
for the beauty of its monuments, its magnificent walls
and welcoming atmosphere. According to Emperor
Constantine Porphyrogenitus it was founded by fugitives
from Roman Epidaurum (now Cavtat) in the 7th century.
It came under Byzantine and Venetian (1205–1358) rule,
and attained formal independence after 1382, when it
became the Republic of Ragusa. In the 15th and 16th
. Rector’s Palace
centuries its fleet numbered over 500 ships. Artistically The highest level of city
it flourished and its wealth was greatly influenced by the government met here. The
discovery of America and new trade routes. Much of rector lived here during his
the Old Town centre dates from the rebuilding that period of office, which was
limited to one month.
took place after the earthquake of 1667.
. Cathedral Treasury
The provenance of the objects
here clearly demonstrates how CA GUNDULIĆEVA
the Dubrovnik merchants LUĆ ARI POLJANA
developed trading relations
with the principal cities of
the Mediterranean. The
Treasury has works from the Byzantine, OM
Middle Eastern, Apulian and Venetian V OR
schools. There are gold and enamel D
.
objects and also paintings by ED
PR
great artists.
POLJANA
MARINA
Key DRžIĆA
KN
Suggested route
E
Z
A
D
A
M
JA
NA
JU
DE
View of Dubrovnik Church of St Blaise

Lovely views of Dubrovnik can be seen from the coast This 16th-century church was rebuilt
about 2 km (1 mile) to the south, where there is an in the following century. At the
elevated terrace. From here you can look over the beginning of the 18th century, it was
entire city and its walls. redesigned by Marino Groppelli.
DUBROVNIK  147
Sponza Palace
Originating in the 16th VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
century, today the palace
houses the State Archives. On
Map F6. * 43,000. n Local:
the lintel is a Latin inscription:
Brsalje 5 (020) 312 011; Regional:
“Falsifying and cheating with
Šipčine 2 (020) 324 999. _
the weights is forbidden. While
Dubrovnik Summer Festival (Jul–
I am weighing the goods, God
Aug). Local: ∑ tzdubrovnik.hr
is measuring me”.
Regional: ∑ visitdubrovnik.hr
Transport
k Čilipi, (020) 773 377.
@ Obala pape Ivana Pavla 11,
44A, (060) 305 070. 4 Harbour
Master: (020) 418 988; Jadrolini
Franciscan Monastery ja: (020) 418 000.
and the Big Fountain
of Onofrio
The outer
city walls
PR
IJE
PL
KO
AC
A
A
SK
AR
AT
ZL
S
V . Dominican Monastery
E
T Since its foundation in
O
G K A
DOMINI 1315, the monastery
has played a leading
role in cultural
activities in the
city. Important
sculptors and
architects played
a part in its
construction.
Ploče Gate
Next to the Dominican monastery is the
Ploče Gate, which leads to the port.
Goods arrived from, and were sent to,
every port in the Mediterranean.
Fort of St John 0 metres 50

To make the city impregnable, the governors employed the most
0 yards 50
important European architects of the time. This fortress was one
of many bulwarks.
Exploring Dubrovnik
From the autumn of 1991 until May 1992, Dubrovnik
was the target of relentless, heavy bombing by Yugoslav
troops. During this period over 2,000 bombs and guided
missiles fell on Dubrovnik, damaging some of the most
significant symbols of Dalmatian culture. Over half the
houses and all the monuments were shelled. The war
also hit the city’s economic activity, especially tourism,
which suffered a dramatic decline for four years.
Only after the Erdut Agreement of 1995 did life begin to
return to normal. UNESCO and the European Union set
The solid Minčeta Tower, part of the
up a special commission for the reconstruction of the wall defences
city, and in a remarkably short space of time much of
the damage has been repaired. Dubrovnik has now from 1537. The bridge crosses
regained much of its former splendour and tourism is a moat which is now a garden.
once again flourishing. The gate is a strong defensive
structure built on different
levels. In a niche above the
ogival arch stands a small statue
of St Blaise, the patron saint of
Dubrovnik, by Ivan Meštrović. In
the ramparts between the inner
and outer walls is a Gothic door
dating from 1460.
P Minčeta Tower
Tvrđava Minčeta
This is the most visited of the
walls’ defensive structures. It
was designed by Michelozzo
Michelozzi in 1461 and
Splendid view from the impressive city walls completed by Juraj Dalmatinac
three years later. The semicircular
P Walls the Adriatic and the port. tower is crowned by a second
Gradske zidine Completing the defences to the tower with embrasures at the top.
n (020) 324 641. Open Jun & Jul: east and west of the city are two
8am–7:30pm; Apr, May, Aug & Sep: fortresses: the Revelin and P Ploče Gate
8am–6:30pm; Oct: 8am–4pm; Nov– the fortress of Lovrijenac. Vrata od Ploča
Mar: 9am–3pm. Access to the walls The gate faces a small port and
near the Franciscan monastery in P Pile Gate is preceded by the polygonal
Poljana Paška Miličevića, the large Gradska vrata Pile Asimov Tower. Dating from the
square behind Pile Gate near the
This is the main entrance to the 1300s, the gate is reached by an
Dominican monastery. &
old fortified centre. The stone imposing stone bridge. A moat
A symbol of Dubrovnik, the walls bridge leading to Pile Gate is separates the gate and Revelin
offer splendid views from the Fort (Tvrđava Revelin),
guards’ walkway. They were designed in 1538 by
built in the 10th century, with Antonio Ferramolino. It
modifications in the 13th century. was the last of the def
They were then reinforced at ences to be built. The
various times by great architects city’s art treasures were
such as Michelozzo Michelozzi brought here for safety
and Antonio Ferramolino. in times of difficulty
The walls and ramparts are because of the fort’s
1,940 m (6,363 ft) long and reach strength. The Lazareti
a height of 25 m (82 ft) in some served as a quarantine
parts. Those facing inland are from the late 14th
up to 6 m (20 ft) wide and century, separating
strengthened by an outer wall goods from ailing
with ten semicircular bastions. travellers. Today they are
Other towers and the Fort of occupied by shops and
St John defend the part facing Pile Gate, leading to the Old Town entertainment facilities.
DUBROVNIK  149
P Fort of St John P Big Fountain of Onofrio which opens out immediately

Tvrđava sv. Ivana Velika Onofrijeva fontana after the Pile gate. It was
Aquarium: Tel (020) 323 978. This is one of the best-known built in 1438–44 by the
Open Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily; Oct– monuments in the city. Neapolitan architect Onofrio
May: 9am–1pm Mon–Sat. & Maritime It stands in the square de la Cava, who was also
Museum: Tel (020) 323 904. Open Apr– responsible for
Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: designing the city’s
9am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
water supply system.
A chain once helped to defend He decided to draw
the harbour, stretching from this the water from the
fort to the island in front and then River Dubrovačka for
across to the Tower of St Luke this purpose. The
(Kula sv. Luke) along the walls. imposing fountain
The upper areas of the fort once had two storeys,
house the Maritime Museum but the upper level
(Pomorski muzej), where the was destroyed in the
seafaring history of Dubrovnik earthquake of 1667.
is told through model ships, Tucked between
standards, prints, diaries the city walls and the
and portraits. Franciscan monastery
On the lower level is an is the Church of St
aquarium (akvarij) with an Saviour (Sv. Spas). The
assortment of Mediterranean façade of the church is
marine life, including sea horses, an example of Venetian-
symbol of the institution. At the Dalmatian Renaissance
top is the circular Bokar Fort architecture, a style
(Tvrđava Bokar), built by dating from after the
Michelozzo Michelozzi. The Big Fountain of Onofrio (1438–44) earthquake of 1520.
Dubrovnik Town Centre

1 Walls q Church of St Blaise Key
2 Pile Gate w Rector’s Palace
Street-by-Street
3 Minčeta Tower e Cathedral and Treasury pp146–7
4 Ploče Gate r Dominican Monastery
5 Fort of St John t Dubrovnik Cable Car
6 Big Fountain of Onofrio 0 metres 150
7 Franciscan Monastery
SPLIT, ZAGR 0 yards 150
E
8 Stradun (Placa) SIBENIK PUT BA
ČK
IZ
A A
9 Square of the Loggia GR
AD
A
0 Sponza Palace Minčeta Dubrovnik
Tower Cable Car
M. RSKA
PERI HVA
Ferry port ĆA
2 km (1.2 miles)
E VA
Bus station Franciscan PE Revelin

OVIĆ A
VA
LIN
NSK
Fort
O T IĆ
2 km (1.2 miles)
NCI
D
Monastery E
ISPO
Walls Dominican SU PI LA
A
UNI
R I JE
FR AN A
PA L M
IĆEV
BRSALJE Monastery
A
A
EŠK
AN T
LO V
IĆEV
NIK
Pile Gate
A
KUN
St Saviour’s Ploče Gate

A
N A LJ
AČK
MI
IOSK
PRIJE
KOV
Church KO
DO
KOV
PETI
Rosary OG
BOŠ
ŽUD
ET
VA
STRA SV
Big Fountain D UN Church
IĆ E
(PLA
of Onofrio
A
CA)
D
OK
TA L
IZM
ŠIR
ZA
EDU Synagogue Sponza North
GE
OD
RO
KO Marin Držić POL Palace Pier
AČ
M.
M House A LUŽA Old

KA
Bokar Fort
Port
GA
US
Rupe Church of St Blaise

A
BO
Orthodox
IĆ
Museum
I PA
NA
EV
KA
Church
OS
OD
AR
MI
RU South
M.
.J
Ž ID
O
PA Rector’s
NE
Pier
SV
GUNDULI-
DD
BO
Palace
N JI
ĆEVA
AR . O
POLJANA Fort of
N.
RA
POLJANA
IJE
ŠT St John
M SV
D.
RO MARINA
SM A M J AN A
AJE Cathedral DRŽIĆA K N E Z A D D E
R OV JU
A and Treasury T IJ E R N E
O
D O D P US
KA
Jesuit Porporela
ANDRI
ŠT
BRAĆE A
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Church
P OB I J A N A
A
OD POLJANA
JIĆ
MA R. BOŠKOVIĆA
RG A
AR IR
IT E DM
I SP O

by draining and filling in the

marshy channel that separated
the island of Ragusa from the
mainland. The street was paved
in 1468 and a series of stone
houses was built after the
earthquake of 1667. Today the
street is lined with busy bars
and cafés, and is a popular place
for locals and visitors to gather
in the evening.
P Square of the Loggia

Luža
This square, the political and
economic heart of Dubrovnik,
is situated at the eastern end
of Stradun and surrounded
by important buildings. Today
it is still a popular meeting
place, in particular around
Orlando’s Column, which
was built by the sculptor
Antonio Ragusino (1418).
On the eastern side of the
square is a Clock Tower
(Gradski zvonik). Repair work
The lovely late Romanesque cloister, Franciscan monastery carried out in 1929 restored
a 15th-century look to the
Clock Tower. The nearby
R Franciscan Monastery which has religious works of art Loggia of the Bell, with four
Franjevački samostan and objects belonging to the bells, dates from 1463. The
Placa 2. Tel (020) 321 410. order. Instruments from the bells were rung to call the
Open summer: 9am–6pm daily; pharmaceutical laboratory are citizens to gather whenever
winter: 9am–2pm daily. Franciscan kept here. danger threatened.
Museum: Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Next to this stands the Main
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–2pm daily. & P Stradun (Placa) Guard House, rebuilt in 1706
Construction of the monastery The wide street that crosses the after the earthquake of 1667.
began in 1317 and was city from east to west between It has a large Baroque doorway,
completed in the following two city gates is known as similar to a city gate, and is
century. It was almost entirely Stradun or Placa. It was enlivened on the first floor by
rebuilt after the earthquake in constructed in the 12th century the Gothic mullioned windows,
1667, but the south door (1499), reminiscent of the earlier
in Venetian Gothic decorated building which was built in
with a Pietà in the lunette, and the late 15th century.
a 15th-century marble pulpit The Small Fountain of Onofrio
escaped damage. The cloister, (Mala Onofrijeva česma), dating
which was completely undam- from 1438, stands alongside
aged by the earthquake, reveals the Guard House.
elements of the Romanesque
and the Gothic style and has a P Sponza Palace
fountain from the 15th century Palača Sponza
in the centre. Tel (020) 321 032. Open May–Oct:
One side of the cloister 9am–10pm daily; Nov–Apr:
leads to the pharmacy (Stara 10am–3pm daily.
ljekarna), in use since 1317, To the left of the square is
where alembics, mortars, Sponza Palace. Remodelled in
measuring apparatus and 1516–22, it has an elegantly
beautifully decorated jars are sculpted Renaissance loggia
displayed on the old shelves. on the ground floor and a
The capitular room of beautiful Venetian Gothic
the monastery houses the three-mullioned window on
Franciscan Museum (Muzej the first floor, evidence of its
Franjevačkog samostana), Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik 14th-century origins, and a
DUBROVNIK  151
statue of St Blaise on the upper

floor. It was the Mint in the
14th century and now houses
the State Archives.
R Church of St Blaise
Crkva sv. Vlaha
Loža. Tel (020) 323 887.
Open 8am–noon, 4:30–7pm daily.
St Blaise was rebuilt in the early
decades of the 18th century
according to a 17th-century
design and contains many
Baroque works of art. Rector’s Palace, built in the 15th century as the administrative seat
On the main altar stands a
statue of the patron saint, Blaise. (Kulturno-povijesni muzej), from the 16th–18th centuries
Produced in the 15th century in which contains 15 collections of decorate the side altars, while
gold-plated silver, it depicts the historic items created in art and an Assumption by Titian (c.1552)
saint holding a model of the city craft workshops throughout dominates the main altar.
in the Middle Ages. Europe between the 16th and Alongside the church is the
20th centuries. On the ground Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
floor an authentic jail space, Katedrale), famous for its
court, notary and archives have collection of about 200
been preserved and presented. reliquaries. It includes the arm
Coins, medals, stamps and of St Blaise which dates from
measures, ancient weapons and the 13th century, and a Holy
numerous other works of art as Cross which contains a
well as an inventory of the state fragment of the cross on which
pharmacy “Domus Christi” are Jesus was said to have been
on display on the mezzanine crucified. The tondo Virgin of
floor. On the first floor, rooms the Chair is thought to have
contain valuable objects from been painted by Raphael
the 16th–18th centuries. himself, and is a copy of the
Also of great interest are masterpiece which is now
the portraits of illustrious in Florence.
personalities who were born The treasury also has an
or lived in Dubrovnik, whose extraordinary collection of
Baroque façade of the church of history is told through their sacred objects in gold, including
St Blaise heraldic coats of arms. During a pitcher and basin in gold and
the Festival of Dubrovnik silver with decoration that
P Rector’s Palace concerts are held in the illustrates the flora and fauna
Knežev dvor atmospheric internal courtyard. of the area around Dubrovnik.
Pred Dvorom 3. Tel (020) 321 422. Next door is the 1863
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Neo-Renaissance Town Hall
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & = ^ (Vïjećnica), designed by Emilio
The Rector’s Palace was for Vecchietti. It is also the home
centuries the seat of the most of the café Gradska Kavana
important government (see p241) and the Civic Theatre.
institutions of the Dubrovnik
Republic. It housed the Upper R Cathedral and Treasury
and Lower Council, as well as Velika Gospa
the rector’s quarters and rooms Kneza Damjana Jude 1. Open Apr–
for meetings and audiences. The Oct: 8am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm
building was constructed in Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–noon, 3–5pm
the early 15th century on the Mon–Sat, 11am–noon, 3–5pm Sun.
site of a medieval fortress, and Cathedral Treasury: Tel (020) 323 459.
Open same times as the cathedral. &
designed by the Italian architect
Onofrio de la Cava. In 1465 the The cathedral was built after
portico by Petar Martinov from the earthquake of 1667 by the
Milan was added. The Gothic Roman architects Andrea
works are by Juraj Dalmatinac. Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti.
The rooms of the palace Inside are three aisles enclosed
house the interesting Cultural by three apses. Paintings by The great dome of Dubrovnik’s Baroque
Historical Museum Italian and Dalmatian artists cathedral
Dubrovnik Cable Car b Elaphite Islands

Dubrovačka žičara
Map F6. * 2,000. g from
Lower station, Petra Krešimira IV bb. Tel
Dubrovnik. n Dubrovnik regional
(020) 414 321. Open Feb, Mar & Nov:
tourist office (020) 324 999.
9am–5pm daily; Apr & Oct: 9am–8pm
daily; May: 9am–9pm daily; Jun–Aug: Lying to the north of Dubrovnik,
9am–midnight daily; Sep: 9am–10pm the Elaphite Islands (Elafitski
daily; Dec & Jan: 9am–4pm daily. &
otoci) can be reached from
∑ dubrovnikcablecar.com
Dubrovnik by motorboat. There
Destroyed in 1991, the cable car are several daily crossings. The
that connects Dubrovnik City islands were described by the
Walls and Mount Srđ is natural historian Pliny the Elder,
operational again. The who named them after the
route takes three and fallow deer then found here.
a half minutes, and Only three of the islands are
offers wonderful views. inhabited: Šipan, Lopud and
Koločep, while Jakljan is
Environs devoted to farming.
The interior at the church of St Dominic, The island of Lokrum, Characteristics common
inside the monastery 700 m (2,296 ft) across to the islands are the
the water from Dubrovnik, woods of maritime
R Dominican Monastery is a nature reserve. pines and cypresses in
Dominikanski samostan Bijeli fratri The first people to settle the uncultivated areas
Od sv. Dominika 4. Tel (020) 321 423. on the island were the and beautiful beaches and
Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm; Nov–Apr: Benedictines, who founded bays frequented by
9am–5pm. & an abbey here in 1023. pleasure boats. The
Building began in 1315 and it This was rebuilt in the A statue in the islands have long been
soon became clear that because 14th century, but later Arboretum in popular with the
of the size of the complex, the destroyed by the Trsteno aristocracy of Dubrovnik,
city walls would have to be earthquake of 1667. In who built villas here.
enlarged. The monastery 1859, Archduke Maximilian of Some islands had monasteries
was later rebuilt after the Habsburg built a palace here which were suppressed with
earthquake of 1667. and renovated the cloister which the arrival of French troops in
A long flight of steps with a later became the Natural 1808. Many of the churches
stone balustrade leads up to History Museum. date from the pre-Romanesque
the church. The door, the In Trsteno, 20 km (12 miles) period, but few, however, are
work of Bonino of Milan, is northwest of Dubrovnik, is an still intact.
decorated with a Romanesque Arboretum. This was begun in
statue of St Dominic. The 1502 in the park around a villa Koločep
interior has a wide single nave built by Ivan Gučetić. The park This is the nearest island to
and, hanging from the central has the layout of a Renaissance Dubrovnik and for this reason
arch, a splendid gilded panel garden with grottoes and ruins. has been a summer retreat
(Crucifix and Symbols of the There are several Renaissance since the 16th century for its
Evangelists) by Paolo Veneziano summer houses around citizens. Most of the island is
(14th century). Dubrovnik, including the Villa covered in maritime pines and
The various rooms of the Stay in Rijeka Dubrovačka. subtropical undergrowth.
monastery, arranged around
the Gothic cloister by Maso di
Bartolomeo (15th century),
house the Dominican Museum
(Muzej Dominikanskog
samostana). It contains an
extraordinary collection of
works from the so-called
“Dubrovnik school”, including a
triptych and an Annunciation
by Niccolò Ragusino, from the
16th century, and works from
the Venetian school, including
St Blaise, St Mary Magdalene, the
Angel Tobias and the Purchaser
by Titian, as well as precious
reliquaries and objects in gold
and silver. Island of Lokrum in front of Dubrovnik, a protected nature reserve
housed in the 16th-century

Rector’s Palace. The works
of the painter Vlaho Bukovac
are especially fine.
At the end of the seafront
is the church of Our Lady
of Snow (Gospa Snježna)
and a Franciscan monastery,
both from the end of the
15th century. On the hilltop
stands the Račić Mausoleum
built by Ivan Meštrović (see
p163) in 1922.
m Konavle
Map F6. n Zidine 6, Cavtat,
(020) 478 025. ∑ visit.cavtat-
Šunj beach on the southeast coast of Lopud, one of the Elaphite islands konavle.com
The churches of St Anthony n Cavtat The area southeast of Cavtat

and St Nicholas have pre- occupies a narrow piece of
Map F6. * 2,500. 4 from Dubrovnik,
Romanesque origins, while the land between the sea and
(020) 478 065. @ from Dubrovnik.
Parish Church dates from the n Zidine 6, (020) 478 025. the mountains of Bosnia-
15th century. _ Summer in Cavtat, Epidaurus Herzegovina. Its name derives
Festival. ∑ visit.cavtat-konavle.com from the channels (canalis)
Lopud which collected the water to
The island, measuring 4.6 sq km Cavtat is the Croatian name supply the aqueduct – of which
(1.7 sq miles), has a fertile valley for Civitas Vetus, the site of the some traces remain – for the
sheltered from the cold winds Roman town of Epidaurum, Roman town of Epidaurum.
by two ranges of hills. Most of destroyed by the Avars in The hilly areas are covered
the inhabitants live in Lopud, the 7th century (occasional in vineyards and olive groves.
a village in a bay. The two forts, excavations have revealed the The small villages maintain the
now in ruins, date from the remains of a theatre, several old customs and traditional
16th century and the Franciscan tombs and parts of a road). costumes are still worn by
monastery is from 1483. The The beauty of the area, the the inhabitants. Konavle
monastery church, St Mary of beaches, the luxuriant vegeta- was heavily damaged by
Spilica (Sv. Marija od Špilica), tion and the monuments bombing in 1991.
contains a polyptych by Pietro attract many visitors to the This area is also renowned
di Giovanni (1520), a triptych by present-day village. for its excellent cuisine and
Nikola Božidarević, a painting by The Baltazar Bogišić there are numerous restaurants.
Leandro da Bassano, a triptych Collection, assembled and One of the best known is
by Gerolamo di Santacroce donated by the scholar and Konavoski Dvori, housed
and a carved choir from the jurist of the 19th century, in a watermill near the waterfalls
15th century. whose birthplace this is, is of the River Ljuta.
Šunj, in the southeast,
draws visitors because of its
sandy beach, but the church
is also worth visiting for its
many works of art, including
a painting by Palma il Giovane
and a polyptych (1452) by
Matej Junčić.
Šipan
This is the largest of the Elaphite
Islands (15.5 sq km/6 sq miles)
and there are two towns. In
Šipanska Luka stands the
pre-Romanesque church of
St Michael and the ruins of a
Benedictine monastery. In
Suđurađ there is a castle and
the ruins of a bishop’s palace. The pretty seafront and port of Cavtat
C r o at i a a r e a b y a r e a  155
ZAGREB
the capital of Croatia, Zagreb is also the heart of the political, economic and
cultural life of the country. Surrounded by woods and parks, the city lies
between the slopes of Mount Medvednica to the north and the river Sava to
the south. Located at the centre of continental Croatia, this Central european
city constitutes a meeting point between eastern and western europe.
The political scientist Max Weber once the Croat-Hungarian King Bela IV.
declared that the quality of life in a city This granted various economic and
could be measured by the number of its administrative privileges to the
cultural institutions. Zagreb has over inhabitants. From the 16th century
20 museums, 10 theatres, 350 libraries, onwards Gradec was also where the Ban
a university, and lively programmes of – the governor of Croatia delegated by
artistic and cultural events. This is not the Hungarian kingdom – and the Croat
just because Zagreb is the capital (it has parliament carried out their business and
only been the capital since 1991), but where Croat nobles met to govern this
is also due to the leading cultural and turbulent territory. The two towns were
political role that Zagreb has played both fortified with ramparts, towers,
over the centuries. moats and gates, and separated by the
Zagreb was originally two separate Medveščak stream. The stream was often
medieval towns. Two settlements were the site of violent clashes between
built on two adjacent hilltops: Kaptol, Gradec and Kaptol, and that time is
the centre of religious power and a vividly recalled by the street called
bishopric from 1094, and Gradec (now the Bridge of Blood (Krvavi most).
part of Gornji grad). In 1242, with the In 1880, a terrible earthquake
proclamation of a “Golden Bull”, Gradec struck the city and many of the major
was given the title of royal free city by monuments date from after this time.
Colourful Dolac market, held in the square of the same name

The famous polychromatic tiled roof of the Church of St Mark
Exploring Zagreb
The city is divided into two large sectors; the Old Town (Gornji
grad or Upper Town), which includes the two districts of 0 metres 200
Gradec and Kaptol, situated in the hills, and the modern area 0 yards 200
(Donji grad or Lower Town) on the plain. The large square
dedicated to the Croat governor Jelačić (Trg bana Jelačića) is
where the upper and lower towns meet. The Old Town is home
to the main centres of religious, political and administrative
power. The more modern part developed after 1830 around
a U-shaped series of parks and open spaces (known as the
“green horseshoe”). The major museums, including the
Ethnographic Museum, Mimara Museum, Gallery of Old
C
NA
Masters and Modern Gallery, are all located here, as well as
KA
TUŠ
the National Theatre. To the south of a series of gardens with
sculptures lies the Botanical Garden. Around Jelačić Square
there are plenty of cafés with summer terraces.
STR
ELJ
AČ
KA
DEŽM ANOVA
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
6 Zagreb City Museum 9 Church of St Mark
7 Croatian Natural History Museum r Church of SS. Cyril
8 Meštrović Atelier and Methodius
w Croatian History Museum y Church of St Catherine ILIC A
e Croatian Museum of Naive Art
Palaces and Other Buildings
i Museum of Arts and Crafts
o Mimara Museum 2 Archbishop’s Palace
A
O PA N SK
5 Stone Gate
MEDULIĆEVA
p Ethnographic Museum
s Art Pavilion 0 Parliament Building
DAL MAT INSK A
FR A N K
d Gallery of Old Masters pp170–71

f Modern Gallery t Tower of Lotrščak
g Archaeological Museum u Croatian National Theatre
h Museum of Contemporary Art s Art Pavilion
P RI L A Z GJ UR
E DEŽEL I Ć
Churches A
Parks and Gardens
TRG
1 Cathedral of the Assumption a Botanical Garden of the Faculty MARŠALA TITA
of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Science
3 Church of St Francis j Maksimir Park
4 Church of St Mary k Mirogoj Cemetery KL AIĆ EV A
ROOSEVELTOV
TRG
TRG BRAĆE
MAŽURANIĆ
PE
RK
OV
Greater Zagreb
ČEV
A
Granešina VUKOTINOV IĆEVA

MARULIĆEV
Sesvete TRG
KA
Maksimir
Črnomerec
VS
SA
ZAGREB
Zagreb
VODNIKOVA
Jarun
Sa
va CR
Lake NA
TK
Jarun OV
A
A1 Novi Zagreb
Botinec A3
0 km 3
30
Zagreb
0 miles 3
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
ZAGREB  157
Map D2. * 780,000.
n Trg bana Jelačića 11,
M E D V E D G R AD SK A
(01) 481 40 51. _ Smotra
NOVA VES
folklora, Folklore Festival (Jul);
ILIRSKI
VA
T TRG Zagrebačke ljetne večeri,
NO
PU M IK
LOU Š I Ć E
GE
VA
Zagreb Summer Festival.
RIB
IN
DE
K E ZV
ŠT
V ∑ infozagreb.hr
NJ
I ON
A AL AR
BR
T NI
ŠE
AK
ĆK
O
VA
U A
OV
D
VR
AZ
R O Transport
ET
M k at Velika Gorica, Pleso,
DE
BASARIČEKOVA
GORNJI GRAD (01) 626 52 22, 17 km (10 miles) SE.

KAP
OPATIČKA
£ Glavni Kolodvor, (060) 333 444.

RADIĆ EVA
T K A L ČIĆ E VA
TOL
ISOKA @ Avenija Marina Držića 4, (060)

V
KA
313 333.
IČ
SN
O P AT O V I N A
MARKOV
ME
TRG
KA ME NIT
Š E VA
A
CIRILOMETODSKA
M AT O
JEZUITSKI
TRG KAPTOL
SKA
KATARININ LINSKA
B A K A Č E VA
TRG KRVAVI
MOST
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P A L M O T I Ć E VA
RAD
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STR LIŠT E
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POD ZID O M
TOMIĆEVA
VL
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C E S AR Č E V A
K U R E L Č E VA
ILI CA TRG
ILICA BANA JELAČIĆA
Zagreb skyline
JU RI ŠIĆ EV
A
GUNDULIĆEVA
PRA ŠKA
PRERADOVIĆEV
TRG BOGOVIĆEVA
PE
MARIĆEV
GA JE VA
PROLAZ
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VARŠAVSKA
MIŠKECOV
IN
PROLAZ
JSK
TESLIN A
A
PR ER AD OV
VA
KO Getting Around
RY ĐORĐ
IĆEVA
SA IĆ EV A
MA BE RI SL AV
The districts of the Old Town,
IĆE VA
ZRINJEVAC
Kaptol and Gronji grad, are mostly
DONJI GRAD pedestrian areas, as is the central
I Ć E VA Jelačić square, which is served by
BOŠKOV
tram routes joining the eastern
HEB RAN GOV A
and western parts of the city
PR ER A
I Ć E VA STROSSMAYEROV
K O VA Č
TRG MAT IČINA
(see pp280–81). The Jarun sailing
K AT A N
ČIĆEV
A
centre, near the river, can also be
D O V IĆ
reached by tram. Buses going to

GUN DUL IĆEVA
Novi Zagreb, on the other side

EVA
TRE NKO VA H A T Z OV A
ŽER JAV IĆEV A of the River Sava (where there is
PETRI NJSKA
a racetrack, exhibition area and

SVAČIĆEV
the Museum of Contemporary
GA JEV A
TRG
HA UL IK OV
KU MI ČI ĆE
Art) leave from the main

TOMISLAVOV
rail station.
TRG
A
VA
MIHA NOV IĆEV A

MIR AM ARS KA
STARČEVIĆEV
TRG
BOTANIČKI VRT GRG URO VA Zagreb
Key
Major sight
Places of interest
Pedestrian zone
Funicular line

1 Cathedral of the decorations, a rose

Assumption of the window and three high
windows, the whole crowned
Blessed Virgin Mary by a tympanum.
Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja The interior has three
Kaptol. Tel (01) 481 47 27. Open aisles and a polygonal apse.
10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. During a late 19th-century
reorganization, the Baroque
Dedicated to the Assumption and Rococo altars were
and St Stephen, this is the transferred to other churches
most famous monument in the diocese, and as a result
in the city. Its present only a few Gothic and
appearance dates from Renaissance works remain.
renovations carried out by These works include a statue
Friedrich von Schmidt and of St Paul (13th century),
Hermann Bollé after the wooden statues of the
earthquake of 1880, saints Peter and Paul The central nave in the Neo-Gothic
which destroyed the from the 15th century, Cathedral of the Assumption
dome, the bell tower a triptych entitled
and some of the walls. Golgotha (1495) by objects. These include
The rebuilding, which Albrecht Dürer and illuminated manuscripts, finely
retained the medieval a 14th-century crafted church ornaments from
plan of the cathedral, Crucifixion by the 11th to the 20th centuries,
was just the latest in Giovanni da Udine. and objects of veneration such
a series of alterations The cathedral also as the Cloak of King Ladislaus
the building had contains the tombs (11th century), a bishop’s veil
undergone in Decorative detail of one of and votive chapels from the 14th century and the
its long history. the cathedral spires of bishops and so-called Sepulchre of God.
The building was important This last piece was made by
already in existence in personalities in Croatian the embroiderers of the village
1094 when King Ladislaus history, such as Petar Zrinski, of Vugrovec, where Bishop
transferred the bishopric here Krsto Frankopan and the Petar Petretić founded an
from Sisak. Destroyed by the blessed Cardinal Alojzije embroidery school in around
Mongols in 1242, the cathedral Stepinac, whose tomb 1650. Among the oldest works
was rebuilt by Bishop Timotej a behind the main altar is by are a 10th-century ivory
few years later. In the centuries Ivan Meštrović. diptych and a bronze crucifix
that followed, the side aisles Of great interest are the from the 11th–12th centuries.
were added and the church frescoes from the Giotto-
was decorated with statues esque school in the sacristy:
2 Archbishop’s
and reliefs. the oldest (12th century) in
The new Neo-Gothic façade inland Croatia. In the basement Palace
(1880) is flanked by twin of the bishop’s sacristy, the Nadbiskupska palača
spires. The façade has a large Cathedral Treasury preserves Kaptol. Closed to the public.
ornate doorway with sculpted a rich collection of religious
The enormous Baroque
buildings comprising the
Archbishop’s Palace enclose
the other three sides of the
cathedral square. The building
incorporates three of the five
round towers and one square
tower, which were part of the
fortifications built from 1469
as defence against Turkish
attacks. The present palace
dates from 1730, when several
buildings were linked and
united by an imposing
Baroque façade.
Inside the complex is
the Romanesque chapel
of St Stephen Protomartyr
(13th century). This is the oldest
Elaborate twin spires of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary building in Zagreb to have
ZAGREB  159
survived in its original form: stands a statue by Vanja Radauš

the frescoes are from the of the legendary wanderer and
14th century. minstrel Petrica Kerempuh,
In the square in front of the playing to the figure of a
palace stands a fountain with a hanged man.
column crowned by a statue of The large, picturesque
Mary with four angels, the work Dolac Market, which was
of the Viennese artist Anton first held in 1930, takes place
Dominik Fernkorn (1813–78) around the church. This is a
in around 1850. characteristic district of the
The moats that once city where Baroque houses
surrounded the walls have been face narrow streets and lanes.
filled in and turned into the A historic pharmacy is at
Ribnjak Public Gardens, with No. 19 Kaptol and an ancient
various statues including one house at No. 7.
called Modesty by Antun
Augustinčić (1900–79). The Stained-glass windows by Ivo Dulčić in the
defences were partially Church of St Francis 5 Stone Gate
demolished in the 19th century, Kamenita vrata
however. At No. 18 ulica Kaptol, while on the main altar there
Kamenita.
opposite the cathedral, is the is a fine painting of St Francis
Northeast Tower, which is by Celestin Medović (1857– In the walls around Gradec,
now a residence. At No. 15 1920). The brightly coloured the part of Upper Town built
stands the Northwest Tower stained-glass windows on a neighbouring hill to
(Prišlinova kula), now part of were designed by Ivo Dulčić Kaptol, there were once five
a 15th-century building. in the 1960s. gates. Stone Gate is now the
In the adjacent 17th-century only one of these remaining.
monastery, where the It was built in the 13th century,
saint supposedly stayed, is the and stands beside a square
much-visited chapel of tower from 1266. In 1731 a
St Francis (1683), with ornate fire destroyed all the nearby
stucco decorations and houses, but a painting of Mary
Baroque paintings. with Child on the gate was
left undamaged. A chapel
was established around this
4 Church of painting and a Baroque
St Mary wrought-iron grille now
Sv. Marija protects the work, attributed
to a local master from the
Dolac 2. Tel (01) 481 49 59.
Open for Mass.
16th century.
On the west façade of the
Opatovina is a narrow street church is a statue of a woman,
where some of the houses a character from a famous
were built using parts of the Croation novel and the work of
Archbishop’s Palace by the Cathedral late-15th-century fortifications. the sculptor Ivo Kerdić in 1929.
of the Assumption The street leads into the On the other side of the gate,
ancient district of on the corner of Kamenita
Dolac, at the end and Habdelićeva, stands
3 Church of
of which stands the an 18th-century
St Francis Church of St Mary, building. On the
Sv. Franjo which dates from ground floor of
Kaptol 9. Tel (01) 481 11 25. the 14th century. this building is a
Open 7am–noon, 3–7pm daily. It was rearranged pharmacy (Alighieri
in 1740 when ljekarna) which has
Founded, according to legend, several Baroque been in existence
after St Francis’s return from altars were built by since 1350 and
the East, this church dates Franjo Rottman, which, from
from the 13th century. After but its present 1399 onwards,
the earthquake of 1880, the appearance belonged to
church was rebuilt in the dates back to Nicolò Alighieri,
Neo-Gothic style. It was at rebuilding the great-
this time that the Baroque after the earth- grandson of
altars were removed. Some of quake in 1880. The monument to Petrica the great Italian
the side altars are Neo-Gothic, Near the church Kerempuh, Dolac writer Dante.
Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad)

In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum
of the country: the presidency of the Republic, Parliament, Created from three collections, the
museum houses most of the finds
the State Audit Court and several government ministries.
from Krapina, which date human
All of these buildings were restored, repaired or rebuilt after presence in Croatia back to the
the terrible earthquake of 1880. Some of the ancient noble Palaeolithic era.
palaces have been converted into museums. There are also
three interesting churches: the ancient church of St Mark,
the Baroque church of St Catherine built by the Jesuits, and
A
the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The daily signal to OV
R
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of ET
M
E
Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). D
The building dates from the 17th century and was
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the Republic.
A
IC
L
U
A
K
IČ
N
S
E
A
M
IC
UL
VA
ŠE
KA
TO
MA
DS
w Croatian History Museum

This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić-
TO
Kalmer-Rauch palace, has works of art and

ME
documents collected since 1959.

ILO
ĆIR

and Methodius
Built by Orthodox
Christians in the first half
of the 19th century, the t Tower of Lotrščak
church, designed by At noon every day a cannon is
Bartol Felbinger, has a fired from this tower, which
fine iconostasis. dates from the 12th century.
e . Croatian Museum
of Naive Art
A wonderful collection of Classical Key
Croatian Naive paintings and sculptures
Suggested route
are on display at this museum.
ZAGREB  161
8 . Meštrović Atelier
The great Croatian sculptor
Ivan Meštrović lived in this
Gornji
18th-century building Grad
from 1922 to 1941. About
ten years before his death
CENTRAL
he donated his home and ZAGREB
all the works of art in it to
the state.
Locator Map
0 Parliament Building
This building dates from 1910, when the
A
A
provincial administration offices were

OV
ČK
enlarged. The independence of Croatia

EK
ETA
was proclaimed from the central window

of the building in 1918.
RIČ
ML
ICA
SA
BA
UL
KA
IČ
AT
OP
MARKOV
TRG
KA
M 9 . Church of St Mark
EN
IT The coloured tiles on the roof of this
A
fine Gothic church form the coats
of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia,
Slavonia and Zagreb.
A
IC
UL
5 The Stone Gate is

KA
all that remains of the

IČ
five original gates

AT
constructed around
OP
the Gradec area in

the 13th century.
JEZUITSKI
TRG
The Klovićevi Dvori, an

important temporary
exhibition site, has
been housed since 1982
in a 17th-century
Jesuit monastery.
y Church of St Catherine
Built on the site of an ancient
0 metres 50
Dominican church, this is the city’s
0 yards 50 most fascinating Baroque building.
6 Zagreb City
Museum
Muzej grada Zagreba
Opatička ulica 20. Tel (01) 485 13 61.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri; 11am–7pm
Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 8 by appt.
& 7 ^ Kovačić residence:
Masarykova 21. Open 10am–5pm
Thu. Krleža residence: Krležin Gvozd
23. Open 11am–5pm Tue. Dujśin-
Ribar residence: Demetrova 3/II.
Open 11am–5pm Tue. ∑ mgz.hr
Three historic buildings (the

17th-century nuns’ convent of
St Clare, a 12th-century tower,
and a 17th century granary)
have been linked to form the
Zagreb City Museum. Its collec-
tion of historic, cultural, military
and domestic artifacts, many
donated by prominent towns-
people, are arranged in themed
displays illustrating every facet
of the city’s development, from
prehistory to the present day.
Across the city, the museum Sculptures in the garden of the Meštrović Atelier
also maintains the former
residences of some of Croatia’s 7 Croatian Natural 8 Meštrović Atelier
most celebrated recent figures; History Museum Atelje Meštrović
that of the architect Viktor Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej Mletačka 8. Tel (01) 485 11 23.
Kovačić (1878–1924); the writer Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
Miroslav Krleža (1893–1981) and Demetrova 1. Tel (01) 485 17 00.
10am–2pm Sat & Sun. & 8 =
his wife Bela; plus the poet and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 8pm
∑ mestrovic.hr
painter Cata Dujšin-Ribar (1897– Thu), 10am–7pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun.
∑ hpm.hr
1994) and her two husbands, the The atelier building dates
actor/theatre director Dubravko from the 17th century; the
Dujšin and the politician Dr Ivan The 18th-century Amadeo sculptor Ivan Meštrović himself
Ribar. The period furnishings, Palace, a theatre from 1797 to modernized it to live in from
decor and works of art in each 1834, has been the Natural 1922 to 1942. It now houses a
are perfectly preserved, making History Museum since 1868, collection of his work. It is part
fascinating short tours. when collections from the of The Museums of Ivan
Department of Natural Science Meštrović, together with
at the National Museum were the Gallery and the Kaštilac
transferred here. At the end of in Split, as well as the burial
the 19th century there were chapel in Otavice (see p112).
three museums There are almost 100
of natural history: works on display,
Mineralogy and including exhibits
Petrography, Geology in the courtyard –
and Palaeontology, History of Croatia,
and Zoology. These Laookon of our Days
three merged in and Woman in Agony.
1986 to form the A mineral in the The drawings, models
present museum. Croatian Natural and sculptures in
There are over History Museum wood, stone and
2,500,000 exhibits, bronze testify to the
including minerals from all over expressive ability and great
the world and palaeontology skills of the sculptor. His
collections containing some of personal archives are also
the material found in Krapina. here, as well as photographic
The zoological collection records and works by other
Partial reconstruction of a late Iron Age documents every species of artists associated with
workshop, Zagreb City Museum animal found in Croatia. the master.
ZAGREB  163
Ivan Meštrović
Regarded as one of the most important sculptors of the 20th century, Ivan Meštrović
was born in 1883 in Vrpolje where his parents had gone for the harvest from their
native village of Otavice in the Dalmatian hinterland. As a young boy he delighted in
making figures out of wood, and his work was noticed by the village mayor and by
Lujo Marun, an archaeologist, who sent him to Split when he was 17 to study
sculpture. Thanks to donors, he was able to attend the Academy of Fine Arts in
Vienna, where he designed works for later production. Here he met and became
friends with the great French sculptor, Auguste Rodin. In 1908 he moved to Paris and
his first exhibition established his reputation. He worked in various cities, including
Split – creating many of the works now on show in the Meštrović gallery there – and
Zagreb. He also took up politics: during World War II he was imprisoned by the Nazi
regime and freed on the Vatican's intervention. He then moved to Rome where he
sculpted the Pietà Romana, now in the Vatican Museum. After the war he taught at
universities in the US, where he died in 1962. He was buried in the burial chapel in
Otavice (see p112) that he designed for himself and his family.
Woman by the Sea

is a splendid
Meštrović,
female figure in
intent on his marble (1926)
work which seems
to twist
around on
itself. The
form of the
body is
vigorous and
Detail of the yet the hands
Resurrection of are delicate
Lazarus (1940) and slender.
The Sculptor at Work

The speed at which Meštrović executed his works was
proverbial, although the preparation time was lengthy.
To satisfy demand, he replicated his works in wood, marble
and bronze. Three copies, not quite identical, exist of the
statue of the Bishop of Nin, in Nin, Split and Varaždin.
Mother and Child

is a wooden sculpture
from 1942 which
demonstrates the
artist’s great
expressive talent. The
figure of the child is History of Croatia is a work from 1932.
almost insignificant, There are four originals; one in bronze is in
leaving the face of the Meštrović Atelier in Zagreb. The woman’s
the mother to play thoughtful gaze looks to the future,
the main role. symbolizing expectations and hopes.
coats of arms of q Viceroy’s Palace

Croatia, Dalmatia, Banski dvori
Slavonia and the city
Markov trg. n (01) 456 92 22.
of Zagreb. The church
Open by appt.
has been refurbished
with several statues The parliament chamber,
by the sculptor Ivan the central archives, the law
Meštrović. On the courts, the President of the
high altar is a large Republic’s residence and
Christ on the Cross, government offices are all
a Pietà stands on the housed in this building in
altar of the Holy Cross front of St Mark’s, which
and a bronze statue was badly damaged in an
of Mary with Child airstrike in 1991. The palace
adorns an altar is similar in design to the
dedicated to the parliament building and
Virgin Mary. The is made up of two long
modern frescoes 18th-century structures. In
depicting Croat the 19th century two two-
kings in action storey wings were added.
were painted by
The Church of St Mark, with its colourful glazed tile roof Jozo Kljaković.
w Croatian History
9 Church of 0 Parliament Museum

Hrvatski povijesni muzej
St Mark Building
Sv. Marko Sabor Matoševa ulica 9. Tel (01) 485 19 00.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,10am–
Markov trg. Tel (01) 485 16 11. Open Markov trg. n (01) 456 96 07. 1pm Sat & Sun. Closed public hols.
check opening times (01) 481 40 51. Open groups only by appt. & 8 ^ ∑ hismus.hr
Today this is the Upper Town’s Built in Neo-Classical style The museum, founded in
parish church. St Mark’s in 1908 after several 1846, has been housed here
was first mentioned in 17th- and 18th-century since 1959. It illustrates the
1256 when King Bela IV Baroque buildings were history of Croatia from the
granted the town of razed, this building Middle Ages to the present
Gradec permission to holds an important day by means of all kinds of
hold a market fair in place in the story historical mementoes and
front of the church. of Croatia. Historic literature. These include
The fair lasted for proclamations documents and paintings
two weeks and was have been issued of political, military and
held to celebrate from the balcony: cultural events, as well as
the saint’s day. the seceding of the items such as firearms, flags
The church nation from the and medals. The exhibitions
has undergone Mary with Child by Austro-Hungarian are not permanent but
various alterations Meštrović, St Mark’s kingdom (29 change frequently due to
over the centuries. All October 1918) limited space.
that is left from the original and independence from The museum is housed in
construction is a Romanesque Yugoslavia after a referendum the Baroque Vojković-Oršić-
window and a splendid Gothic in 1991. Today the Sabor is still Kulmer-Rauch Palace, which
doorway, created by the the centre of 21st-century dates from the second half
sculptor Ivan Parler between Croat politics. of the 18th century.
1364 and 1377. The 15 niches
on the door contain statues of
Jesus, Mary, St Mark and the
12 apostles. Some of these were
replaced by wooden copies in
the Baroque era.
On various occasions fires
and earthquakes have been
responsible for changes in the
church’s appearance. Its present
look dates from 1882, when the
coloured glazed tiles on the roof
were added. The tiles bear the The Parliament Building (Sabor), built in Neo-Classical style in 1908
ZAGREB  165
y Church of
St Catherine
Sv. Katarina
Katarinin trg. Tel (01) 485 19 50.
Open 8am–8pm daily.
The Jesuits built this church in
around 1630 on the site of a
Dominican building. The church
is considered to be one of
the most beautiful religious
buildings in Zagreb. The white
façade has a doorway and four
niches with statues and six
prominent pilasters. Above is
a niche with a statue of Mary.
The single-nave church is
On the hills – rainforest by Ivan Rabuzin (1960), Croatian Museum of Naive Art home to numerous Baroque
works of art. Of particular
e Croatian Museum designed by Hermann Bollé. interest are the stucco reliefs
of Naive Art The interior contains a large
iconostasis that was painted
(1721–3) by Antonio Quadrio,
the Scenes of the Life of
Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti
by the Ukrainian Epaminondas St Catherine by the Slovenian
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Čirilometodska Bučevski, and four large artist Franc Jelovšek (1700–64)
ulica 3. Tel (01) 485 19 11. Open May– paintings by Ivan Tišov. in the medallion on the ceiling,
Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm The adjacent Greek-Catholic a beautiful Altar of St Ignatius by
Sun; Nov–Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, seminary was built in 1774 and the Venetian sculptor Francesco
10am–2pm Sat; 10am–1pm Sun. enlarged at the beginning of Robba (1698–1757) and, on the
Closed public hols. & 8 =
the 20th century. main altar (1762), St Catherine
∑ hmnu.org
among the Alexandrian
Since 1967, this 19th-century Philosophers by Kristof
building with its beautiful Neo-
t Tower of Lotrščak Andrej Jelovšek (1729–76).
Baroque façade has housed Kula Lotrščak In the nearby square called
works from an exhibition of Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Tel (01) Jezuitski trg, there is a fountain
Naive painters which opened 485 17 68. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm with a statue of a Fisherman
in Zagreb in 1952. The paintings Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. with a Serpent by Simeon
are characterized by the use &= Roksandić (1908). Facing this
of vivid colour and a strong is a Jesuit monastery (17th
feeling for narrative. There are Since the middle of the 19th century) and a large building
paintings by the founders of century, the inhabitants of from the same period which
the Naive trend, Ivan Generalić Zagreb have set their clocks was the Jesuit seminary and,
and Mirko Virius, as well as by at noon by the cannons fired later, a boarding school for
the Hlebine School (see p25), from this tower. Dating from boys of noble parentage.
where works by Ivan Večenaj the 13th century, it is one of the
and Mijo Kovačić stand out, oldest buildings in the city.
and artists from other regions At one time this square tower
(Ivan Rabuzin, Slavko Stolnik had a bell, which announced
and Matija Skurjeni). Among the closing of the city gates
the sculptures are several by each evening. Its name comes
Petar Smajič. from the latin campana
latruncolorum – bell of thieves –
anyone left outside at night ran
the risk of being robbed.
and Methodius The tower originally stood
Sv. Ćiril i Metod alongside the southern side of
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Ćirilometodska the walls of Gradec. Even at that
ulica 1. Tel (01) 48517 73. time, the walls, nearly 2 m (6 ft)
thick, were built with chains
First built in around 1830 in inside them as an anti-
Neo-Classical style by the earthquake measure.
architect Bartol Felbinger The tower now houses a
(1785–1871), the church was gallery. It is worth climbing to
rebuilt after the earthquake of the top for spectacular views Rich Baroque interior of the Church
1880 in a Neo-Byzantine style over the city. of St Catherine
o Mimara Museum
Muzej Mimara
Rooseveltov trg 5. Tel (01) 482 81 00.
Open Oct–Jun: 10am–5pm Tue,
Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–7pm Thu,
10am–2pm Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–7pm
Tue–Fri, 10am– 5pm Sat, 10am–2pm
Sun. Closed Mon. & 8 =
∑ mimara.hr
In 1973, Ante Topić Mimara,

a businessman who was
also a collector, painter and
restorer, donated his extensive
collections to Croatia, and the
Mimara Museum was set up for
their display. The museum is
The Neo-Baroque building housing the Croatian National Theatre housed in an enormous Neo-
Renaissance building built in
u Croatian National i Museum of Arts 1895 by the German architects
Theatre and Crafts Ludwig and Hülsner.
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Muzej za umjetnost i obrt The works are displayed
chronologically from the
Trg maršala Tita 15. Tel (01) 488 84 18. Trg maršala Tita 10. Tel (01) 488 21 11. prehistoric era to the present
Open for performances only. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
day. The archaeological section
Closed public hols. ∑ hnk.hr 2pm Sun. & 8 by appt. = 0 ^
∑ muo.hr
is particularly fascinating, with
The Croatian National Theatre important finds from ancient
stands in the square marking This museum was first Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia and
the beginning of a U-shaped established in 1880 to house Pre-Columbian America, as well
series of parks and squares collections of artworks by as the Middle and Far East
forming a “green horseshoe”, craftsmen and artists. The (Japan, Cambodia, Indonesia
the design of the engineer building was designed by and India are represented).
Milan Lenuci (1849– Hermann Bollé and was The icon collection not only
1924). The theatre, one built between 1887 and contains Russian pieces, but
of a number of imposing 1892. More than 3,000 also has icons from Palestine,
buildings in the square, objects of applied arts Antioch and Asia Minor dating
was completed in from the Gothic from the 6th to the 13th cen-
1895 and is a blend period to the present turies. There are ancient Persian,
of Neo-Baroque provide an overview Turkish and Moroccan carpets,
and Rococo. It of Croatia’s cultural and about 300 exhibits cover
was designed by history and its over 3,500 years of the develop-
the Viennese A 19th-century close ties to the ment of Chinese art, from the
architects Hermann clock, Museum of rest of Europe. Shang to the Qing dynasties.
Helmer and Ferdinand Arts and Crafts The collections offer More than 650 glassware
Fellner. The roof has an insight into the exhibits come from Europe, as
two small domes at the Croatian and European well as Persia and Egypt. About
front and a higher dome production of arts and crafts, 1,000 objects of applied arts
further back. The exterior is spanning from late Medieval
ornamented with two orders times to Art Deco and right up
of columns running along its to the more contemporary era.
entire length. The collections housed at the
The interior is richly museum include religious art,
decorated with works by Judaica, and items including
Croatian and Viennese artists. clocks and watches, ivories,
Five stage backcloths include metalworks, glass, ceramics,
one called The Croatian textiles and fashion. As the
Renewal, a splendid work by museum is supported by
Vlaho Bukovac. international backing,
In the area in front of the impressive temporary
theatre stands a masterpiece exhibitions from abroad
by Ivan Meštrović, The Well of occasionally take place here.
Life, which consists of a group The adjacent library has a
of bronze figures huddled total of 65,000 books on The Bather by Renoir (1868),
around a well. arts and crafts. Mimara Museum
ZAGREB  167
and pieces of furniture Melanesia and Australia, was

give a good overall picture assembled from donations
of European craftsmanship made by scholars and explorers,
from the Middle Ages to the among them Dragutin Lerman
19th century. and brothers Mirko and
There is also a wide-ranging Stevo Seljan.
collection of 200 sculptures,
which date from ancient
a Botanical Garden
Greece to the time of the
Impressionists. They include of the Faculty of
works by the Italian sculptors Science
Giambologna, the Della Robbias Botanički vrt Prirodoslovno
and Verrocchio, and the matematičkog fakulteta
Frenchmen Jean-Antoine
Houdon and Auguste Rodin. Marulićev trg 9a. n (01) 489 80 60.
Italian painting is represented Open Apr–Oct: 9am–2:30pm Mon &
Tue; 9am–7pm Wed–Sun. 8
by, among others, Veronese, Traditional Croatian costumes on display,
∑ hirc.botanic.hr/vrt
Paolo Veneziano, Pietro Ethnographic Museum
Lorenzetti, Raphael, Canaletto, Part of the “green horseshoe”
Giorgione and Caravaggio. pieces) of the 80,000 exhibits designed by Milan Lenuci
Dutch Baroque painting is which the museum possesses is an English-style garden
represented by Rembrandt, Jacob are on display. Croatian culture created in 1890 by Antun
Van Ruisdael and Jan Van Goyen. is illustrated through Heinz, a professor of botany,
Flemish masters here exhibits of gold and and entrusted to the faculty
include Rogier van der silver jewellery, musical of Mathematics and Natural
Weyden, Hieronymus instruments, splendid Sciences at Zagreb University.
Bosch, Van Dyck and Rubens. embroidery, furnishings, The garden, covering an area
Diego Velázquez, Bartolomé kitchen utensils, tools, of 50,000 sq m (540,000 sq ft),
Esteban Murillo and beautiful traditional is an oasis of tranquillity and
Francisco Goya represent women’s costumes for this reason it is a popular
the Spanish painters. embroidered in gold and place in which to stroll. There
The museum also men’s ceremonial dress. are about 6,000 plant species
has paintings by the A reconstruction of here, including around 1,800
English artists John a farmhouse room tropical plants from all over the
Constable and Putto by Verrocchio, illustrates the customs world, with Asia particularly
JMW Turner and Mimara Museum and way of life of Croat well represented.
the French painters farmers and fishermen. Paths link the conifer woods,
Edouard Manet, Pierre-Auguste There is also a fascinating artificial ponds, the exhibition
Renoir and Camille Pissarro. collection of dolls dressed in pavilions, rock gardens and
traditional costumes, called the glasshouses. A wonderful
Ljeposav Perinić collection. display is provided by the
p Ethnographic The valuable collection of different varieties of trees,
Museum pieces from non-European shrubs and flowers that are
Etnografski muzej civilizations, including Latin grown here. Aquatic plants are
America, Africa, the Far East, cultivated in special ponds.
Mažuranićev trg 14. Tel (01) 482 62 20.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm
Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, public hols.
& 8 7 = ^ (flash). ∑ emz.hr
This is the most important

museum of its kind in Croatia.
It was founded in 1919 and set
up in this harmonious domed
building, constructed in 1902
in the Art Nouveau style by
the architect Vjekoslav Bastl,
for exhibitions held by the
Chamber of Commerce. The
statues decorating the central
part of the façade are by the
sculptor Rudolf Valdec and the
frescoes on the dome inside
were painted by Oton Iveković.
Only a small proportion (2,800 Flowers in bloom at the Botanical Gardens
d Gallery of Old g Archaeological

Masters Museum
Galerija starih majstora Arheološki muzej
See pp170–71. Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Tel (01)
487 30 00. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat
(to 8pm Thu), 10am–1pm Sun. &
f Modern Gallery 8 by appt. = ∑ amz.hr
Moderna galerija A large 19th-century building,
Andrije Hebranga 1. Tel (01) 604 10 55. the Vranyczany-Hafner Palace,
Open 11am–7pm Tue–Fri; 11am–2pm has housed the Archaeological
Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, public hols. Museum since 1945. The
Art Pavilion, a historic venue for & 8 7 = ^ ∑ moderna- institution itself, however,
major exhibitions galerija.hr was founded in 1846.
Around 400,000 pieces from
s Art Pavilion The richest national museum all over Croatia, and particularly
Umjetnički paviljon of Croatian arts, housed in the the area around Zagreb, are on
Vranyczany Palace (1883), holds display here. The museum has
Trg kralja Tomislava 22. Tel (01) 484
10 70. Open 11am–8pm Tue–Sun,
works by the most eminent five main sections: prehistoric,
11am–9pm Fri. & ∑ umjetnicki- Croatian painters and sculptors Egyptian, ancient and medieval,
paviljon.hr of the 19th–21st centuries. The and a part devoted to coins
collection dates from 1905 when and medals.
In 1896 the Art Pavilion the first works of Ivan Meštrović, The first section covers
represented Croatia at the inter- Mirko Rački and others were the period from the Neolithic
national exhibition in Budapest. acquired. Later purchases and to the late Iron Age and
Its iron skeleton was then donations brought the current includes the famous Vučedol
transported to Zagreb and rebuilt total to some 9,800 paintings, Dove, a pouring vessel shaped
on this site in 1898 to fit the sculptures, watercolours, like a bird. Despite the rustic
designs of Ferdinand Fellner and drawings and prints. materials used, it nonetheless
Hermann Helmer. It is now used The permanent display of 750 reveals the technical skills that
for large-scale, diverse art exhi- works includes modern classics the pre-Illyrian civilizations
bitions. A work by Ivan Meštrović, from painters Vlaho Bukovac, had acquired.
a monument to the Renaissance Mato C Medović, Miroslav Another important exhibit
painter Andrija Medulić, stands Kraljević and Josip Račić, the is the bandage used to bind
in front of the Pavilion. sculptors Ivan Meštrović, Frano the Mummy of Zagreb. This
The Pavilion faces onto a Kršinić and Branislav Dešković, bandage has mysterious origins
square, Trg Kralja Tomislava, along with contemporary artists and bears text in the Etruscan
dedicated to the first Croatian working in photography, video language, which has not yet
king, Tomislav. An equestrian and other new media. The inno- been completely deciphered.
statue by the sculptor Robert vative, multisensory MG Tactile The museum’s ancient
Frangeš-Mihanović stands here Gallery is aimed particularly at collection is the most important
in commemoration. the visually impaired. of all and includes the
Gundulić Imagining Osman by Vlaho Bukovac, founder of modern Croat painting, Modern Gallery
ZAGREB  169
life of Croatia lie here.

An imposing façade covered in
ivy forms the entrance to the
Catholic and Orthodox chapels.
From here branch two long
Neo-Renaissance arcades which
house the burial rooms of the
most important families.
A long tree-lined avenue
divides the area into two
sections which in turn are
divided into squares of trees
and bushes. Among the areas
of greenery stand funeral
An avenue in Maksimir Park, home of the zoo monuments by leading Croatian
sculptors and engravers. There
Lapidarium, which can be j Maksimir Park are works by Ivan Meštrović,
found in the courtyard. It is a Maksimirski perivoj Jozo Kljaković, Ivan Rendić,
collection of stone monuments Antun Filipović, Antun Augus-
Maksimirski perivoj bb. Open daily.
dating from the Roman period 8 ∑ park-maksimir.hr
tinčić, Edo Murtić, Ivan Kerdić
(it is open every day except for and Robert Frangeš-Mihanović.
Monday). The valuable exhibit The largest park in the city As well as the tombs of
of the Head of Plautilla, from (covering over 3 sq km/ notable personalities there is
the Roman town of Salona 1 sq mile) is considered one also a monument dedicated
(see pp118–19), is the emblem of Croatia’s living monuments. to the memory of the soldiers
of the museum. It is named after Bishop who died during World War I,
An archaeological Maksimilijan Vrhovac, who by Juri Turkalj and V Radauš,
conservation laboratory initiated the project in 1794. and a monument dedicated
dedicated to preserving The park was finally to the Jews who died in World
the exhibits is also part completed in 1843. War II, by Antun Augustinčić.
of the museum. In The park is land- On one of the cemetery lawns
addition the museum scaped in the English there is a monument dedicated
has developed style with wide to the German soldiers killed
several educational lawns and flower in the war.
projects aimed at beds, small woods The well-preserved cemetery
school children. The and lakes. The zoo is a real open-air museum and
archaeological Head of Plautilla, (Zoološki vrt) has is often visited by the local
library next door Archaeological Museum hundreds of different inhabitants, who regularly put
houses over 45,000 animals. Among the fresh flowers and candles on
volumes, some of which follies scattered around the the tombs of great Croats of
are very rare. park, the Vidikovac (Belvedere) the past.
offers great views and has a
small café.
h Museum of
Contemporary Art
Muzej suvremene umjetnosti k Mirogoj
Avenija Dubrovnik 17. Tel (01) 605 27 Cemetery

00. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun, 11am– Groblje Mirogoj
8pm Sat. ∑ msu.hr & 8 7 = Mirogoj. Open Oct–Mar: 7:30am–6pm
daily, Apr–Sep: 6am–8pm daily.
This superb exhibition space
displays more than 600 works At the foot of Mount
by 200 artists. Highlights include Medvednica, 4 km (2 miles)
the experimental films of Ivan from the centre of the city, is
Ladislav Galeta and Tomislav the Mirogoj Cemetery, built in
Gotovac, and conceptual pieces 1876 by Hermann Bollé. This
from Goran Trbuljak, Sanja great architect had already
Iveković and Atelier Kožarić. demonstrated his ability and
Works such as Miroslav Balka’s talent with the building of the
Eyes of Purification and Carsten new city district. The cemetery
Höller’s slides, also shown in covers an area of 28,000 sq m
Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall in (6.91 acres) and the tombs of
London, add to the museum’s the most illustrious figures in Arcade in the Mirogoj Cemetery, one of the
heavyweight credentials. the political, cultural and artistic most beautiful in Europe
d Gallery of Old Masters

Galerija starih majstora
In 1880 Josip Juraj Strossmayer, the rich and
powerful Bishop of Ðakovo and one of the leading
proponents of a pan-Slav movement, had this
gallery built to house the Academy of Arts and
Sciences and the Gallery of Old Masters, to which
he donated his own impressive collection of about
250 works of art. Virgin with Child and St Francis
and St Bernardine of Siena
The Neo-Renaissance building has a large internal This painting is one of the few
porticoed courtyard. Nine rooms on the upper floor works by Bartolomeo Caporali
house around 200 works from the major European (c.1420–1505) to be found
schools from the 14th to the 19th century. Behind outside Perugia in Italy.
the building is a large statue of Bishop Strossmayer
sculpted by Ivan Meštrović in 1926.
Susanna and the Elders

The three figures depicted in the Second floor
painting stand out against the landscape
in the background. The faces of the two
old men are very expressive; it is as
though they are revived by gazing
at the beautiful Susanna. The artist,
Master of the Prodigal Son,
demonstrates great technical
skill and vivid use of colour.
Gallery Guide
The gallery is on the second floor
of the building. Exhibits include
works by important Italian,
German, Flemish and French
masters, representing schools
and artistic trends from the
14th to the 19th century. Before Madame Recamier
visiting the gallery, note, in the This portrait by Antoine Jean Gros
entrance hall, the Baška Tablet, (1771–1835) was probably painted
one of the oldest documents of around 1825. Madame Recamier was
Croat culture (11th century), a leading figure of some notoriety in
written in Glagolitic script. Parisian high society of that time.
ZAGREB  171
Virgin Mary with Jesus,

John and an Angel
This tondo by Jacopo del
Sellaio uses exuberant
Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 11.
colour. The Tuscan artist
Tel (01) 489 51 17. Open 10am–
belonged to the circle
7pm Tue, 10am–4pm Wed–Fri,
of Filippo Lippi and
10am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8
Sandro Botticelli.
^(without flash).
Adam and Eve Key

This lively oil
on panel painting Italian School 14th–16th century
is by Mariotto Italian School 16th–18th century
Albertinelli (1474– Flemish and Dutch Masters and
1515), a Florentine European School 15th–17th
painter. It shows century
Adam and Eve French Masters 18th–19th century
being expelled from
Non-exhibition space
Earthly Paradise.
. St Augustine and
St Benedict
The work reveals the
expressive skill of the
great Venetian master,
Giovanni Bellini (1430–
1516). The figures of
the saints occupy
simple niches.
. St Sebastian
This delicate image of the saint
by Vittore Carpaccio (1465–1525)
was part of a polyptych. In this
painting with its vivid colouring,
Main entrance the Venetian master expresses the
drama of the martyrdom through
the smile of the young man at the
moment of his death.
CENTRAL CROATIA
Central Croatia is bordered to the west by the vine-covered hills of Samobor,
which continue on towards Karlovac and Ogulin, and to the south by the
Bosnia-Herzegovina border as far as Jasenovac. To the northeast is a stretch of
fertile valley formed by the Sava river, which runs from Zagreb to the Lonjsko
Polje Nature Park. These wetlands, south of Sisak, are home to all kinds of birds.
This region of Croatia has long been a Serbian refugees were brought in,
meeting point for different civilizations. along with minorities of Vlachs,
Until the 12th century BC, this area was Albanians, Montenegrin and German-
inhabited by the Illyrians, who were speaking groups. Villages sprang up
joined by Celts in the 4th century BC. which were inhabited by Catholics,
The first Illyrian cities became Roman Muslims and people of the Orthodox
towns after the 1st century AD. The most faith. These diverse communities lived
important was Siscia (now called Sisak), together without any serious tension
which was sacked by the Huns in 441 and until the mid-19th century, when
raided by the Avars in the 6th century. feelings of nationalism swept across
The southern border with Bosnia, which Europe. The most recent war, fought
dates back to 271 AD, was confirmed at in the name of nationalism, created
the time of the division between the widespread destruction and resulted
Western and Eastern Churches in 1054, in thousands of Serbs choosing to
and later re-confirmed when the Turks leave the region.
occupied the Balkans. To stop the This part of Croatia is the area least
continuous Turkish raids, in 1578 the visited by tourists, although it offers
Austrian Emperor established a Vojna magnificent scenery with rivers and
krajina (Military Frontier) in areas which wood-covered hills and good Croatian
had mostly been abandoned by the cuisine. There is plenty to see, with
Croats, who had fled to the coastal cities ancient castles, churches, museums
for refuge. To help guard the borders, and nature reserves.
Horses grazing in the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park

Gentle slopes planted with vines near Samobor
Exploring Central Croatia

Three distinct areas make up this part of the country: the lowlands
around the capital, Zagreb, with numerous 18th-century buildings
constructed on the sites of ancient castles; the hilly area between
Samobor and Karlovac, renowned for its wine production; and
the strip of border with Bosnia-Herzegovina, south of Sisak. The
landscape of Central Croatia is varied, with areas of rolling plains
alternating with vine-covered hills. Higher areas are covered in
thick woods and there is also an area of wetlands that comprise
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park. In the cities and larger towns there are
Baroque churches, monasteries, castles, fortresses and museums.
Most suffered damage in the 1991–95 war, but some have Roman piece, Civic
been repaired since. Museum, Sisak
Ljubljana
Zaprešić Zabok
Sesvete
rje
Go SAMOBOR
č ko Zagreb
ra Kerestinec
be OKIĆ
m
Žu
Brezovica Velika
Gorica
Ku p a
JASTREBARSKO GRAD ZAGREB
OZALJ
Kup Buševec
Pokupsko
KARLOVAC
a
Duga Resa
Interior of the Church of St Mary
in Jastrebarsko
Tušilović
Rijeka Glina
Vojnić
K A R L O VA Č K A
a
TOPUSKO TOPLICE
in
Ve
Gl
OGULIN
li
ka
Josipdol
Kor
K
ap
ana
Slunj
el
Drežnica
a
Plaški
Zadar Broćanac
M
a
la
Rakovica
Getting Around K
a
The road network which crosses central p
el
Croatia is good. Recently roads have been a
improved and the motorways extended. From
Zagreb the A3 motorway goes to Samobor and
the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park. State road number
30 serves Sisak, while a secondary road network
connects the other towns. All the main towns
0 kilometres 20
and cities are served by the Croatian railway
system, except for the city of Samobor. Buses 0 miles 20
go to all villages, however small.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247
C E N T R A L C R O AT I A  175
Sights at a Glance HUNGARY

1 Samobor SLOVENIA
0 Jasenovac • ZAGREB
2 Okić q Novska
3 Jastrebarsko w Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
4 Ozalj e Kutina
BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
5 Karlovac r Garić
6 Ogulin ADRIATIC
7 Topusko Toplice SEA
8 Sisak
Locator Map
9 Hrvatska Kostajnica
Bjelovar Ðurdevac
Varaždin
Vrbovec
Dubrava
Česma
Dugo Selo
B J E L O VA R S K O -
Kloštar
Ivanić Čazma BILOGORSKA Veliki
Grđevac
Virovitica
Ivanić-Grad Grubišno Polje

Veliki Zdenci
Mo
Križ sla
Sava
va
čk Garešnički Slatina
Brestovac
a
GARIĆ Daruvar
Go
ra
Popovača Garešnica
pa O
L
N KUTINA
Ku SISAK JS
K
O
Moščenica PO
Petrinja
LJ
Gora S a v a Čigoć E
NA NOVSKA
TU
Blinja Sunja RE
PA
RK
S I S A Č K O - M O S L AVA Č K A
JASENOVAC
HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA River Sava near Sisak
ra
Go
a
nsk
Zri Zrin
a
Un
Dvor
Key
Motorway
Motorway under
construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
Vine-covered hills around Okić International border

Metzinger (1734). The adjacent In the village around the foot of

monastery is laid out around a the hill is the Church of St Mary
beautiful quadrangular cloister (Sv. Marija). It was rebuilt in 1893
and has Baroque frescoes in incorporating a decorated
the refectory and library. doorway from 1691 and survived
The history of the city and survived landslips in 1911 that
local area is well documented in engulfed much of the village.
the Civic Museum (Muzej grada Inside are some Baroque altars,
Samobora), housed in the a splendid pulpit and a font. In
18th-century Livadić Palace. The front of the church is an octag-
section dedicated to the history onal bell tower with a vestibule.
of Croatian mountaineering is
especially interesting.
R St Anastasia
The main altar in the Church of St Mary, Ulica sv. Ane 2. Tel (01) 336 00 82.
Samobor Open by appt.
E Civic Museum
1 Samobor Livadićeva 7. Tel (01) 336 10 14.
Map C2. * 15,000. @ (01) 336 72 Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 9am–7pm
76. n Trg kralja Tomislava 5, (01) 336 Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, 10am–5pm Sun.
00 44. _ Carnival (Feb); Day of the &8^=
city (3rd Sat in Oct). ∑ tz–samobor.hr
Samobor is built below the 2 Okić

ruins of what was once a large
Map C2. n County: Preradovićeva
fort (Stari Grad). In 1242 it was
42, Zagreb, (01) 487 36 65.
granted the status of a royal free
town, and became an important High on an isolated hilltop,
trading centre. Today it is one towering above the fields A painting by Metzinger in the Church of
of the capitals of Croatian and woodland surrounding St Mary in Jastrebarsko
gastronomy, priding itself on the village of Okić, stand the
its traditional local dishes. ruins of a fortified town. These 3 Jastrebarsko
In the oldest area (Taborec) consist of the remains of a wall Map C2. * 5,500. £ from Zagreb.
is the Gothic Church of with round towers, an entrance @ from Zagreb. n Vladka Mačeka 1,
St Michael (Sv. Mihalj), which gate and a Gothic chapel. The (01) 627 29 40. ∑ tzgj.hr
was remodelled in the Baroque town, mentioned in documents
period. Dating from the same from 1183, belonged to the At the foot of the Plešivica
time is the Church of St counts of Okić, Zrinski, mountain chain, between
Anastasia (Sv. Anastazija) and a Frankopan and Erdödy. It was Samobor and Karlovac, stands
Franciscan monastery with the destroyed by the Turks and Jastrebarsko. The town appears
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija): eventually abandoned in 1616. in documents of 1249. It
the Assumption behind the The steep, rocky approaches assumed greater importance
main altar was frescoed by leading up to the ruins are in 1257 when it was declared
Franc Jelovšek in 1752, popular with climbers, who are a royal free town by Bela IV and
while the altar on the left rewarded with fantastic views became a trading centre for
was decorated by Valentin from the summit. timber, livestock and the wine
which is still produced locally.
In the 15th century the town
was a feudal holding of the
Erdödy family, who built an
imposing castle on a square
ground-plan with round towers
at the corners and an internal
porticoed courtyard. Two
centuries later it was altered
and turned into a residential
building which is now closed
to the public.
The Baroque Church of St
Nicholas (Sv. Nikola; 1772–75)
contains a fresco by Rašica and
the tomb of Petar Erdödy (1567).
Ruins of the fortified town of Okić, perched on a hilltop In the Church of St Mary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and p247
(Sv. Marija; 1740), originally the building was abandoned

Dominican and later Franciscan, but in 1971 it became a
the altars are all Baroque. The museum. Exhibits explain
painting on the altar dedicated the history of the fort and
to Mary is by Valentin Metzinger local area and there are some
and dates from 1735. Glagolitic inscriptions.
+ Castle and Museum

4 Ozalj Cesta Zrinskih i Frankopana 2. n (047)
732 271. Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri,
Map C2. * 1,200. £ (047) 731 158. 10am–8pm Sat & Sun. &
@ Karlovac, (060) 338 833, Ozalj,
(047) 731107. n Kurilovac 1, (047)
731 196. _ Day of the city (30 Apr);
Summer evenings in Ozalj (15–20 5 Karlovac
Aug). ∑ ozalj-tz.hr Map C2. * 55,000. £ (060) 333 444.
@ (060) 338 833. n Local: Ulica
A castle (Stari grad) which Petra Zrinskog 3, (047) 615 115;
belonged to royalty once Regional: A Vraniczanya 6, (047) 615
stood on this rocky spur. It 320. ∑ karlovac-touristinfo.hr
was built in the 13th century _ Spring Promenades (May);
to monitor the roads and the St John’s Bonfires (Jun); International
traffic on the river Kupa which folk festival (Jul); Beer festival (Aug).
flows below it. The castle was
strengthened by the Babonić Today Karlovac is an industrial
counts and was also the city and an important junction
property of the Frankopan for roads to Slovenia. It
family and, in the late 16th originated as a bulwark
century, of Juraj Zrinski. After against Turkish raids, but was
the Ottoman threat had actually founded in 1579 by
passed, a village grew up the Archduke of Austria,
around the castle which had Charles of Habsburg, from
become a residential manor. whom the town gets
Parts of the fortress its name. Clock tower of the Church of the Holy Trinity
remain visible: two The town was in Karlovac
encircling walls with planned by the
five semicircular Italian N Angelini The Catholic Church of the Holy
towers. Next to as a city-fort at the Trinity (Presvetoga Trojstvo) dates
these are some more confluence of the mainly from 1683–92 with an
recent buildings: the rivers Korana and 18th-century clock tower (1795).
granary (palas) (16th Kupa. The layout The church has an elaborate
century) and a Gothic was based on a six- black marble altar made by
family chapel. The Coat of arms, Civic pointed star with Michele Cussa in 1698. The
main building, on Museum, Karlovac bastions and moats Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
several levels, was which have now (Sv. Nikola) dates from 1786.
renovated in 1928 by the been transformed into public To the east the city now
Thurn und Taxis family who gardens. The interior contained extends as far as Dubovac
had inherited it. For a time 24 buildings, all similar, all of Castle, a medieval construction.
which are still preserved today – Once used as a hotel, it is being
although they are used for restored to its original design.
different purposes.
The heart of the city is Stross- E Civic Museum
mayer Square with the Baroque Strossmayerov trg 7. Tel (047) 615 980.
Frankopan Palace which houses Open 8am–4pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am–
the Civic Museum (Gradski m 7pm Wed, 10am–4pm Sat, 10am–
noon Sun. & 8 by appt. ∑ gmk.hr
uzej). The archaeological and
ethnographic collections E The Vjekoslav Karas Gallery
document the city’s history. Ljudevita Šestića 3. Tel (047) 615 980.
In the square Trg Bana Jelačića Open during exhibitions: 8am–4pm
is a Franciscan monastery. Tue & Thu, 8am–7pm Wed & Fri,
The Vjekoslav Karas Gallery 10am–4pm Sat, 10am–noon Sun.
was built in 1975 in the New R Holy Trinity
Centre. It uses its attractive Trg bana Jelačića 7. Tel (047) 615
Ozalj Castle, once owned by the Frankopans display space for both visual 950/1. Open before Mass. Other
and Juraj Zrinski art and museum exhibitions. times by appt.
rivers). The abbey was founded town after a bloody battle in

in 1204 by King Andrew II and a which Emperor Augustus was
village grew up around it in the wounded. After the conquest of
Middle Ages. The remains can the Balkans, the emperor made
be found in Opatovina Park. it the capital of the Pannonia
The nearby hot water springs Savia province and it became
(up to 78°C/172°F) were used in a trading centre.
Roman times and in the 19th It was destroyed by Attila in
century a thermal spa was 441, and in the 6th century it
established, which was was raided by the Avars and
frequented by the Emperor Slavs. The town was finally
Franz Joseph and other rebuilt by the Croats
court dignitaries. Today and became Sisak.
the spa treats rheumatic It was from here that
15th-century castle of the Frankopan and neurological Prince Ljudevit began the
counts in Ogulin problems, and the after- conquest of Croatia in
effects of incapacitating the 8th century. Sisak was
6 Ogulin injuries. The spa has three destroyed again by the
main thermal sources Hungarians in the 10th
Map C2. * 9,000. £ (047) 525 001.
n Kardinala A. Stepinca 1, (047) 532 and the water comes century, and was also
278. ∑ tz-grada-ogulina.hr from a depth of 1,500 m abandoned by the
(4,920 ft). The quality of Hercules (1st bishop, who transferred
When Marshal Tito was the water has not century AD), the see to Zagreb, but
imprisoned here in 1927 and changed since the 19th Sisak museum built a fort here. In 1593
1933 (see p44), this town became century. There are two this fort was the site of a
well known throughout Croatia. hotels in Topusko and a number battle which resulted in the first
The prison was part of a castle of private accommodations. Turkish defeat in the Balkans.
built by the Frankopan counts The town rose again nearby
in the 15th century. The castle and began to enjoy a long period
walls enclosed a large building 8 Sisak of prosperity, thanks to tolls on
with two tall towers at the ends, river traffic. It still has some
Map D2. * 37,000. £ (044) 524 724.
a Gothic chapel and several @ (060) 330 060. n Rimska ulica 13a, Baroque buildings, including
houses which were built when (044) 522 655. ∑ sisakturist.com the old and new town halls.
Ogulin became a staging post A park surrounds the fortress
on the Vojna krajina (Military The city of Sisak, at the point (Stari grad) on the River Kupa,
Frontier, see p41) in 1627. Part where the rivers Kupa and Odra south of the city. The fortress
of the structure is given over to flow into the Sava, has always was built in the middle of the
the Regional Museum which played an important role in 16th century at the time of
has sections on archaeology, Croatian history. Its name has the Turkish invasions. It has a
folklore and mountaineering. changed a number of times triangular ground plan, with three
It also comprises Ivana’s House over the course of its 2,000 large round brick towers (1544–
of Fairy Tales, an interactive years of existence. It originated 55), connected by a high wall
visitor’s centre that celebrates as the Illyrian-Celtic Segestica, with openings for firearms. In
fairy tales and their creators. becoming Siscia with the the park is a beautiful traditional
A short distance from the Romans, and later Colonia Flavia farmhouse. The Civic Museum
fortified town is the Old Castle Siscia. Rome conquered the (Gradski muzej) has material
(Zulumgrad) situated near the from the Roman settlement.
Ðula abyss, a chasm formed by
the Dobra river. + Fortress
Tome Bakača Erdödyja. n (044) 811
811. Open contact for info.
7 Topusko Toplice E Civic Museum
Map D2. * 800. @ from Zagreb, Kralja Tomislava 10. Tel (044) 811 811.
Sisak, Karlovac. n Trg bana Jelačića 4, Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
(044) 885 203. _ Days of Honey (Feb); 9am–noon Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar:
Folklore Day (Jun); Half Marathon 7:30am–3:30pm Tue–Fri. & ^
(Aug). ∑ turizam-topusko.com ∑ muzej-sisak.hr
The presence of a Cistercian Environs

abbey made this a centre for About 20 km (12 miles) south-
spreading Christianity in the west is Gora which, in the
Banovina area (a region of Middle Ages, was the centre of
green valleys south of Sisak, Fortress of Sisak next to the Kupa river, built a Županija (county) of the same
between the Sava and Glina in the 16th century name. The county seat was a
castle which appears in

documents in 1242, but which
was destroyed by the Turks in
1578. The Gothic Church of the
Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin Mary (Uznesenja Blažene
Djevice Marije) was also badly
damaged and was restored in
the 18th century in the Baroque
style. The church has chapels
on all corners and resembles a
castle, with a marble altar and
pulpit inside.
9 Hrvatska
Kostajnica
Map D2. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb,
The tulip-shaped monument by Bogdanović in Jasenovac Memorial Site
Sisak. @ from Zagreb, Sisak.
n Vladimira Nazora 17, (044) 851 800. to the Bribir princes of Šubić. Bogdan Bogdanović now stands
A branch of the family took the in what was formerly the camp’s
Standing on the left bank of the name of Zrinski after the village centre. The monument and the
River Una which, for much of its around the castle. It was Memorial Museum are part of
length, marks the border occupied by the Turks from Jasenovac Memorial Site.
between Croatia and Bosnia- 1577 until the end of the 17th
Herzegovina, this town still bears century when they destroyed it.
the signs of damage from the The Zrinskis played a key role
war in the 1990s. By the river, in Croatia’s history: as fierce
near a bridge, is a renovated defenders against the Turks;
castle built in the Middle Ages then as the authors of the failed
but frequently razed. Only three attempt to free the territory
towers connected by a high from Habsburg rule (see p181).
wall remain in the wake of
the last war. The Church and
Monastery of St Anthony of 0 Jasenovac
Padua, built after the Turks left
Map E2. * 800. £ from Sisak.
at the end of the 17th century, @ from Sisak. n Trg kralja Petra
have been restored and are Svačića 3, (044) 672 490.
discreetly furnished (some of Church of St Luke in Novska
the Baroque altars were famous This town is notorious as the
for their beauty). place where, during World War II, q Novska
tens of thousands of prisoners Map E2. * 7,500. £ from Zagreb,
Environs of war, Jews, Gypsies, Serbs Sisak, (044) 892 421. @ from Zagreb,
Around 14 km (9 miles) to the and Croats, perished in the Sisak. n Ulica kralja Tomislava 2,
southwest is Zrin, where the concentration camp which was (044) 600 062.
ruins of a castle built in the 14th located here. In memory of this
century by the Babonić family terrible genocide, a large tulip- The town of Novska is the
stand on a hill. In 1347 it passed shaped monument by the artist starting point for visiting the
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park (see
p180) and for excursions to the
Psunj mountains. A number of
recreational sports can be
enjoyed here too.
The Church of St Luke
(Sv. Luka) is a Baroque church
dating from 1775. It has a fine
altar and a painting by the
modern painter Z Šulentić.
In the Bauer Gallery there
are many works by Naive
and contemporary artists.
Novska’s economy is based on
industry and trade, and rail and
The castle of medieval origins in Kostajnica, on the banks of the Una road links are good.
e Kutina Environs
Around 50 km (31 miles) north-
Map D2. * 15,000. £ (060) 333 444.
@ (060) 355 060. n Tržna 8, (044) west of Kutina is Ivanić-Grad
681 004. ∑ turizam-kutina.hr and the nearby towns of Kloštar
Ivanić and Križ. In Ivanić-Grad
Kutina, in the Moslavina region, there are workshops making
was built over the ruins of a pretty flax and linen products,
Roman castrum (a Roman keeping local traditions alive.
military camp or fort) and In Kloštar Ivanić there
numerous archaeological finds is a Franciscan monastery
have been discovered. The founded in 1508 and the
town is linked to two castles; church of St Mary (Sv. Marija),
Kutinjac Grad, documented with collections of silver,
in 1256, and the fortress of paintings and richly illustrated
Plovdin; however, only ruins music codices.
and parts of the walls remain. In Križ, the parish church
Nesting storks in the Lonjsko Polje Kutina flourished again in of the Cross was founded by
Nature Park the 17th century, developing the Knights Templar in the
on the plain south of the 11th century. The church has a
w Lonjsko Polje fortress. It is here that the decorative Baroque interior and
Nature Park Church of Our Lady of the a magnificent 1787 organ.
Snow (Marija Snježna) was
Map D2. Park office (Krapje): n (044) built by Count Karl Erdödy in
672 080. Entrance at Čigoć: n (044) around 1770. The church is
715 115. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
surrounded by a covered
daily; Nov–Mar: by appt. &
∑ pp-lonjsko-polje.hr
portico and is decorated inside
with stucco and trompe-l’oeil
The wide bend in the River paintings by Josip Görner. The
Sava between Sisak and Stara sculpture and the inlaid
Gradiška has been a special wooden furnishings which
ornithological reserve since enclose the altar of the Holy
1963. It became a nature Sepulchre are a unique example
reserve in 1990 to protect an of Baroque composition.
area of 506 sq km (195 sq miles). Erdödy Castle, which was
This vast area was regularly rebuilt in 1895, houses the
flooded by the river and its Museum of Moslavina
tributaries (Lonja, Ilova, Pakra (Muzej Moslavine), which Some remains of the old fortifications
and Čazma) during the thaw, tells the history and folklore around Garić
and in the summer and early of Moslavina through an
autumn the waters would extensive collection of r Garić
recede. Since the 1960s parts documents, objects and Map D2. * 76 (Podgarić).
of the wetlands have been traditional costumes. n Regional: Dr. Ante Starčevića 8,
drained, but they still remain Bjelovar, (043) 221 928.
some of Europe’s most E Museum of Moslavina
important marshland. Trg kralja Tomislava 13. Tel (044) 683 On a hill in the Moslavačka
Woods of oak, poplar, ash and 548. Open 8am–1pm Tue–Fri. chain (Moslavačka Gora) near
willow trees grow along the Podgarić stand the ruins of the
banks of the river and on the fortified town of Garić, noted
higher ground, while the dry as a castrum in 1256. In 1277,
fields are used as grazing for it was granted by the king to
sheep in the summer months. Timotej, Bishop of Zagreb, who
Wild boar live here, as well as entrusted its defence to the
deer, and there are also counts of Gardun, and later to
Turopolje pigs and Posavina the counts of Celje. Nearby,
horses, both of which are below Garić, the Pauline order
protected species. founded the monastery of
The park is an important St Mary in 1295. In 1544 the
stopping place for black storks, town and the monastery were
which arrive in spring and leave destroyed by the Turks.
in autumn after nesting, for The fortified town was
numerous species of heron, for protected by high walls and was
egrets and a variety of birds of an irregular shape. There was a
prey, including the rare harrier Interior of the Church of Our Lady of the moat with towers, and further
and white-tailed eagles. Snow in Kutina towers inside the walls.
The Zrinski and Frankopan Dynasties

Dujam, count of Krk, died in 1163 and his descendants took the name of Frankopan
(Frangere Panem) after Venice confirmed the family’s rule over Krk. They were allied with
Venice until 1480 when they were forced to surrender the island. However, they still had
vast estates given to them by the Hungarian kings. The Šubić family became counts of
Bribir when they were granted the town by King Andrew II in 1290, and counts of Zrinski
in 1347 when they were obliged to move to Zrin (see p179). The execution of the Ban of
Croatia, Petar Zrinski, and his brother-in-law Fran Krsto Frankopan in 1671 ended the two
most powerful Croatian dynasties. The Habsburgs confiscated their property and the
Zrinski line died out. A branch of the Frankopan family still survives in Friuli, Italy.
Fran Krsto Frankopan Krsto Frankopan,

(1643–1671), great- (1480?–1527), son of
grandson of Krsto Bernard, Ban of Croatia,
Frankopan and Mario and Louise of Aragon,
Frangipane’s heir was Emperor Maximilian’s
(the Roman branch general in the war against
of the family), was Venice in the early 16th
publicly executed in century. He was imprisoned
Wiener Neustadt in in Milan and died fighting
1671, for his part in a for the independence of
plot against the Empire. Hungary, of which Croatia
was part.
Fran Krsto
Frankopan awaiting
execution
Petar Zrinski
Execution of the Rebels

On 30 April 1671, in the town square in Wiener Neustadt, the Ban of
Croatia, Petar Zrinski, and his brother-in-law, Krsto Frankopan, were
beheaded on charges of high treason on the orders of Emperor Leopold I.
The two brothers-in-law had attempted to form a coalition of the
Croatian feudal lords in order to limit Austro-Hungarian influence.
Petar Zrinski was the Ban

(governor) from 1664, and
the leader of the movement
which sought to limit
Habsburg activity in Croatia.
The attempted revolt was
Nikola Zrinski fought foiled by betrayals and the
against the Turks and was promise of a possible
a defender of Christianity. agreement. The two leaders
He died in the Battle of Siget went to Vienna to negotiate
in 1566, after he refused the with the Emperor. When they
sultan’s offer to make him reached the capital they were
Governor of Croatia if he imprisoned, and a few months
abandoned the Emperor. later were beheaded.
Tranquil waterways through Lonjsko Polje Nature Park

SLAVONIA AND BARANJA

The easternmost part of northern Croatia, between Hungary, Serbia and
Bosnia-Herzegovina, is one of the most fertile areas of Europe, known as the
“granary of Croatia”. The landscape of Slavonia and Baranja is characterized
by expanses of wheat and maize fields and hills covered with vineyards or
ancient woods. The main city, Osijek, is famous for its fortified centre.
First inhabited by the Illyrians, present- until 1689. To confront the constant
day Slavonia and Baranja came into disputes between the Turks and the Holy
contact with the Roman world in the Roman Empire, the Habsburgs set up a
2nd century BC. It took the Romans more Military Frontier (Vojna krajina), which
than 200 years to subdue the inhabitants lasted until 1881, when Austria-Hungary
of this region, which they referred to as took Bosnia-Herzegovina from the
Pannonia. From 402 Pannonia was Turks. The frontier was abolished and
invaded, first by the Goths, then the absorbed into Croatia.
Huns, Visigoths, Burgundians, Gepids, When war broke out in 1991, the
Longobards, Sarmatians and finally the presence of Serb villages was a pretext
Avars. When the Slavs arrived, very little for the Serbian occupation of Slavonia.
remained of Roman rule, and the land, In 1995, under the auspices of the United
ever since then called Slavonia, was Nations, control of Slavonia reverted back
practically uninhabited. to the Croatians. Although war damage is
In 925 the Kingdom of the Croat still visible along the border, particularly in
Sovereigns was set up and this lasted Vukovar, great efforts are being made with
until 1097, when King Koloman came to rebuilding and Slavonia is once again well
rule Slavonia and created the Hungarian- worth visiting for its historical treasures. It
Croat kingdom. Following the Battle of is also an area of great natural beauty and
Mohács in 1526, Slavonia became part of includes the nature reserve of Kopački rit,
the Ottoman Empire, and remained so a wetlands sanctuary for wildfowl.
Local people in the typical traditional costumes of the region

Fresco in the 18th-century church of St Francis in Požega
Exploring Slavonia and Baranja

Slavonia, the region between the rivers Sava, Drava and
Danube, is made up of a vast rolling alluvial plain with chains
of hills at its edges which are covered in woods and vineyards.
At one time the rivers turned the area into an enormous swamp
for many months of the year. Baranja is a triangular area of
land in the far northeast, bordered at the extreme tip by
the rivers Drava and Danube and the Hungarian border.
The plains are covered in fields of maize and the hills are
given over to viticulture. In the southern corner, the Drava
river regularly overflows from spring
to autumn to create a broad area
of marshland, now the Kopački Varaždin
Rit Nature Park. The park is an
Pitomača
important wildlife sanctuary, a
D
Ne rava
refuge for hundreds of different teč Baroque belfry of
a
species of bird, including the B Špišić St Roch in Virovitica
il Bukovica Gradina
rare black stork. o
G
or VIROVITICA
On the right bank of the Drava a
Suhopolje
river is Slavonia’s main city, Osijek.
It has wide avenues, parks, and Viljevo
19th-century, Viennese-style Čađavica
Slatina
buildings, as well as a
VIROVITIČKO-
Neo-Gothic cathedral. PODRAVSKA
Voćin
Ceralije Čačinci
DARUVAR
Pap
uk
ORAHOVICA Feričanci
Velika
NAŠICE
Sights at a Glance Pakrac Kamenska
1 Daruvar
j KUTJEVO
2 Lipik LIPIK un
3 Nova Gradiška
P s POŽEŠKO-SLAVONSKA
Jakšić
4 Požega Brestovac
POŽEGA
5 Kutjevo Zagreb
6 Slavonski Brod NOVA Pleternica
7 Vrpolje GRADIŠKA Staro Petrovo Selo a
8 Ðakovo j av
ri
9 Novi Mikanovci BRODSKO-POSAVSKAO Podvinje
0 Županja Banja Luka Oriovac SLAVONSKI

BROD
q Vinkovci
w Ilok
e Šarengrad
r Vukovar
t Erdut
y Osijek pp194–7
u Ernestinovo
i Kopački Rit Nature Park
pp198–9
o Topolje
p Darda
a Bizovac
s Valpovo
d Donji Miholjac
f Našice
g Orahovica
h Virovitica The countryside around Slavonski Brod
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
SLAVONIA AND BARANJA  187
Getting Around HUNGARY

SLOVENIA
For many years Osijek was a rail, road and river junction of • ZAGREB
some importance. Since the war in the 1990s, rail and river
traffic has become less significant. However, Osijek is still the
BOSNIA-
centre of the road system in the area and, thanks to a good HERZEGOVINA
network, the city can easily be reached from Slavonia and
Baranja using state road number 2 heading south from ADRIATIC
SEA
Varaždin, or the same number 2 road north from Vukovar
and the E73 from Hungary. There is also an efficient public
Locator Map
bus service. About 7 km (4 miles) from Osijek there is a
domestic airport with daily connections to Zagreb.
Osijek itself has an excellent tram service which
makes it easy to get around the city.
TOPOLJE
Batina
Beli
Da
Manastir
nu
DONJI MIHOLJAC
Kneževi
be
D ra Vinogradi
va Traditional costumes of Bizovac
VALPOVO
EP T
K
NATUR KI RI
AR
Petnjevci
DARDA
BIZOVAC
Č
Bilje
KOPA
OSIJEK
Brođanci
Čepin Tenja ERDUT
OSJEČKO- Antunovac Dalj
BARANJSKA
Vu
ka
ERNESTINOVO 0 kilometres 15
Borovo 0 miles 15
Nuštar VUKOVAR
Jarmina
ĐAKOVO
Da
Ivankovo VINKOVCI
nu
NOVI MIKANOVCI be
Rokovci
ŠARENGRAD ILOK
Donji VRPOLJE
Cerna VUKOVARSKO-
Andrijevci
Gradište
SRIJEMSKA Tovarnik
Velika
Kopanica Babina Greda Otok
Bo
su
ŽUPANJA Belgrade
t
Zenica
Sarajevo
Key Gunja
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Ruins of Grad Ružica, near Orahovica
1 Daruvar
Map E2. * 10,000. k Osijek, 130 km
(81 miles); Zagreb, 150 km (93 miles).
£ @ n Trg kralja Tomislava 12,
(043) 331 382. _ Wine exhibition
(May/June). ∑ visitdaruvar.hr
This spa town was known as

Aquae Balissae in the time of
the Roman Empire for the
quality of its hot water spring,
the source of which is at the
foot of the Papuk mountains.
The town developed from
three medieval settlements.
In 1760 the area was bought
by a Hungarian count, Antun
Janković, who built a Baroque
castle he named Daruvar, and Baroque building in Požega’s main square
the first spa. Today, Daruvar
(meaning “city of the crane”) 3 Nova Gradiška 4 Požega
has hotels, a medical centre Map E2. * 13,300. k Osijek, 93 km Map E2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 67 km
(Daruvarske toplice) offering the (58 miles); Zagreb, 155 km (96 miles). (42 miles); Zagreb, 175 km (109 miles).
spa waters, the Daruvar wine £ (035) 361 610. @ (035) 361 219. £ (034) 273 911. @ (034) 273 133.
road and a thermal water park, n Slavonskih graničara 7, (035) 361 n Antuna Kanižlića 3, (034) 274 900.
Aquae Balissae. 494. ∑ tzgng.hr _ Feast of St Gregory (12 Mar), Music
There are two 18th-century Festival Aurea Fest (early Sep).
churches in the town, one In 1748 this town was first ∑ pozega-tz.hr
Catholic and one Orthodox. founded as Fredrichsdorf by
Daruvar is also a centre for the the Viennese, who planned to The Romans first founded this
Czech people in Croatia, who build a fortress here. The town, town, a halfway settlement
maintain the Czech language situated at the foot of Mount between the towns now called
and customs. Psunj, is built on a fertile plain. Sisak and Osijek, with the name
An agricultural market is of Incerum. In the 11th century
 Spa regularly held in the main it was one of the centres from
Julijev Park. Tel (043) 623 620. square, which is lined with which the heretical movement
Baroque buildings. of the Bogomili spread; after
The Neo-Classical Church their repression in the 12th
2 Lipik of St Stephen of Hungary century, properties in the
Map E2. * 2,300. k Osijek, 93 km
(Sv. Stjepan Kralj) is now the environs of the city were granted
(58 miles); Zagreb, 155 km (96 miles). Immaculate Conception. The to the Templars by King Bela IV.
£ @ from Zagreb. n Trg kralja Baroque Sanctuary of St Theresa In 1285 the Franciscans
Tomislava 3, (034) 421 600. _ June in (Sv. Terezija) dates from 1756. founded a monastery, the church
Lipik (Jun). of which was used as a mosque
R Immaculate Conception during the Turkish occupation. In
The spa area (Aquae Balissae) Aloizija Stepinca 1. Tel (035) 362 203. the 18th and 19th centuries the
was known in Roman times for Open 8am–6pm daily. town was called the “Athens of
its waters. In the late 18th Slavonia” for the cultural events
century a hot water spring, rich held to commemorate the
in minerals, was rediscovered expulsion of the Turks in 1691.
and Lipik became one of the The city took on a new look
most famous spas in Croatia. It during this period: in the main
was especially popular between square, Trg Sv. Trojstva, buildings
the two World Wars. Lipik was with stucco and Baroque
damaged in the 1991 war, but porticoes were built.
a new spa has been built and In the square stands a column,
the hotels and medical centres a memorial to plague victims
restored. Lipik is also known for made in 1749 by Gabrijel
breeding the famous Lipizzaner Granicije. To one side of the
horses; its horse-riding and cycle square is the renovated 18th-
trails are popular with visitors. century Church of St Francis
(Sv. Franjo). The monastery
 Spa (Toplice) Baroque Sanctuary of St Theresa in alongside still houses a com-
Marije Terezije 13. Tel (034) 440 700. Nova Gradiška munity of Franciscan monks.
Interesting examples of Baroque 5 Kutjevo

architecture in the town include Map F2. * 2,800. k Osijek 62 km
the Jesuit College (1711) and (38 miles). £ Našice, 27 km (17 miles).
Gymnasium (1726), opened by n Trg graševine 1, (034) 315 008.
the Jesuits who, in 1761, also _ City Day (8 Sep). ∑ kutjevo.hr
founded the Požega Academy.
Dating from 1763, the Church of A wine-producing centre, the
St Theresa (Sv. Terezija Avilska) town is famous for a winery
became a cathedral in 1997. The founded by the Cistercians. In
frescoed walls are by Celestin 1232, the order built a monastery
Medović and Oton Iveković. here and encouraged the culti-
The Church of St Lawrence vation of vines. After Turkish rule,
(Sv. Lovro, 14th century) was at the end of the 17th century,
renovated in Baroque style in Jesuits took over the monastery
the early 18th century. It still and wine-making resumed. The
has some 14th-century Cistercian cellars are still Baroque altar in Holy Trinity Church in
frescoes. There are also intact and wine is still Slavonski Brod
tombstones testifying an important industry.
to the city’s glory; one The Jesuits also belonged to the counts
is for the poet Antun built the Church Berislavić-Grabarski from the
Kanižlić (1699–1777). of the Nativity of Middle Ages to 1526 when it
In the square between the Blessed Virgin was conquered by the Turks,
the Church of Mary (Crkva rođenja who occupied it until 1691.
St Francis and the 14th-century fresco in the Blažene Djevice To defend the border, in 1741
Gymnasium is a church of St Lawrence, Marije) in 1732, the Viennese government built
statue of Luka Požega which houses a a fort with barracks, residences
Ibrišimović, a Francis- painting of the for governors and religious
can who distinguished himself Madonna with Child by buildings. Damaged during
in the battles against the Turks. A Cebej (1759). World War II and again in the
The Civic Museum (Gradski war in 1991, the buildings are
muzej) contains an assortment under repair: some are used as
of archaeological finds, 6 Slavonski Brod schools and others house
Romanesque reliefs and Map F3. * 60,000. k Osijek, 100 km
museums and galleries.
Baroque paintings. (62 miles); Zagreb, 197 km (122 miles). The town has grown beyond
Every year on 12 March £ (060) 333 444. @ Trg Hrvatskog the original ramparts. Along
Požega holds an event called proljeća, (060) 310 310. n Local: the banks of the Sava is a
Grgurevo, to commemorate Vukovarska 1, (099) 320 41 69. Franciscan Monastery, dating
a local victory over the Turks Regional: Petra Krešimira IV 2, (035) from 1725, which has been
won in 1688. 408 393. _ Brodsko kolo: folk festival renovated, and the Baroque
(mid-Jun). ∑ tzgsb.hr Church of the Holy Trinity
R St Theresa (Sv. Trojstvo) with many statues,
Trg sv. Terezije 13. Tel (034) 274 321. Built on the site of the paintings and altars.
Open 8am–noon, 3–6pm daily. Roman town Marsonia, this The Regional Civic Museum
E Civic Museum town was placed so as to (Muzej Brodskog Posavlja)
Matice hrvatske 1. Tel (034) 272 130. monitor the traffic on the river contains historic documents and
Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri, by appt Sava, the border with Bosnia- archaeological, geological and
Sat & Sun. Herzegovina. The town ethnological finds from the region.
The well-known Croatian
writer Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić
(1874–1938) spent much of her
life in this town. She wrote
fairytales for children: among
her most famous works are
Fisherman Palunco, Jagor and The
Forest of Stribor. The town is also
known for its folklore festival
(Brodsko kolo) held in June.
E Regional Civic Museum

Ulica Ante Starčevića 40. Tel (035) 447
415. Open 10am–1pm, 5–8pm Mon–
Fri, 10am–1pm Sun. Closed Sat & 25
Dec, 1 Jan. 8 (by appt). = No flash
Cloisters of the Franciscan monastery at Slavonski Brod photography. ∑ muzejbp.hr
9 Novi Mikanovci
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km
(2 miles). n (032) 338 425.
The village is famous for the

small Romanesque Church of
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol),
from the first half of the 13th
century, a rare example of
architecture from before Turkish
rule. The church stands in a
cemetery and is called the
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia”
because of its leaning bell
tower, which appears to be
held up by the façade. At the
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful
statue of St Bartholomew.
7 Vrpolje mosque, at the end of the
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, central avenue, was retained.
39 km (24 miles). @ from Osijek. It was converted into the parish 0 Županja
n Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, church of All Saints (Svi Sveti) in Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. the 18th century. (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki
The central square is kraj 66, (032) 830 299. _ Folklore
A small country town, Vrpolje dominated by the Cathedral Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb).
is known as the birthplace of of St Peter (Sv. Petar), built ∑ tz-zupanja.hr
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović between 1866 and 1882 by
(1883–1962) (see p163). Many Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer; On the border with Bosnia-
of the artist’s works, donated the project was the work of Herzegovina, Županja lies along
to the town he held in great the Viennese architects Karl a wide bend in the Sava River.
affection, can be seen here. Rösner and Friedrich von The area has been inhabited
In the small parish Church of Schmidt. The imposing façade since ancient times; Bronze
St John the Baptist (Sveti Ivan is flanked by two 84-m (275-ft) Age finds have been discovered
Krstitelj, 1774) is his statue of belfries. The interior has frescoes in a necropolis. One of the first
St John the Baptist, a relief by Maksimilijan and Ljudevit Croat settlements was set
and a crucifix, while outside Seitz, sculptures by Ignazio up here. After Turkish rule
is a striking Bust of a Woman. Donegani and Tomas Vodcka, it became one of the military
The Ivan Meštrović Gallery and decorations by Giuseppe staging posts on the Vojna
(Spomen galerija) has 30 of his Voltolini from the 19th century. krajina (Military Frontier)
works on display: casts, bronzes The crypt houses (see p41) and a trading centre.
and wooden sculptures. the tombs of the bishops The Frontier House is a
Strossmayer and Ivan de Zela. wooden building originally
Next to the church is the 18th- from the early 19th century,
8 Ðakovo century Bishop’s Palace, which used by tax collectors.
has an ornate Baroque doorway. Damaged during the bombings
Map F2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 48 km
The Festival of Embroidery
(22 miles). £ (031) 811 360. @ (060)
302 030. n Kralja Tomislava 3, (031)
of Ðakovo (Ðakovački vezovi)
812 319. _ Ðakovo embroidery, is held at the beginning of July
Ðakovački vezovi (first week in Jul). with displays of traditional
∑ tzdjakovo.eu local costumes, folk dancing
and wine tasting.
In medieval times this town was Ðakovo has a long-lasting
known by the name of Civitas tradition of horse-breeding. The
Dyaco, and later as Castrum State Stud Farm was established
Dyaco. Late in the 13th century here in 1506, which makes it
it became a bishopric, and its one of the oldest stud farms
influence extended over in Europe. Lipizzan horses have
most of Slavonia and Bosnia. been bred at this farm since the
Conquered and destroyed by beginning of the 18th century.
the Turks in 1536, it became a
Muslim centre and a mosque R Cathedral of St Peter
was built. After Turkish rule, the Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 200. Embroidered head-dress in the
city was renovated. Only the Open 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm daily. Ethnographic Museum, Županja
in the 1990s and now restored, Around the middle of the

it houses the Ethnographic 15th century, the Church and
Museum (Zavičajni muzej Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran
“Stjepan Gruber”). (Sv. Ivan Kapistran) were built
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
E Ethnographic Museum was a Franciscan who was
Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open 7am– famous for uniting Christian
7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. & forces against the Turks and
8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
Ilok became a major Turkish
q Vinkovci administrative and military
Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
(27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
Glagoljaška 27, (032) 338 425. the monastery have been
_ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
(Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
one of the Turkish baths are
A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km
In 1683, after his role in
named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km winning the battle of Vienna,
the birthplace of the Emperors (24 miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, Commander Livio Odescalchi
Valens and Valentinian, and a (032) 590 020. _ Grape harvest was given the town of Ilok
bishop’s see from the 4th festival (first week in Sep). by the Austrian Emperor.
century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr In this idyllic setting he built a
was called Zenthelye, because U-shaped mansion, Odescalchi
of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Manor. Today, the mansion
abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the houses public offices and the
(Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
church is one of the oldest and the centre of the region with archaeological and
monuments in Slavonia. of Srijem, famous since Roman ethnographic collections. The
The Civic Museum (Gradski times for its wine. In the late wines of Ilok are still produced
muzej), situated in the Roman era the city here in the cellars, among them
former 18th-century grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac.
Austrian barracks and took the name
in the main of Cuccium. R Church and Monastery of
square, holds finds In the Middle St Ivan Kapistran
from the Roman Ages it was a O M Barbarića 4. Tel (032) 590 073.
necropolis and has castrum with high Open by appt or before Mass.
a folklore collection. walls, towers and E Odescalchi Manor and
Large Roman Exhibit in the Civic fortified buildings. Civic Museum
sarcophagi Museum, Vinkovci The defences Šetalište oca Mladena Barbarića 5.
are displayed in the were reinforced in Tel (032) 827 410. Open 8am–6pm
museum’s lapidarium. 1365, and the town was given daily, wine tastings only. Civic
Facing the garden is the to Nikola Kont, whose family Museum: Open 9am–6pm Fri,
church of SS Eusebius and Pollio later acquired the title of 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 11am–6pm Sat.
(Sv. Euzebije i Polion) from 1775, Counts of Ilok. &87=^
and the Town Hall.
Each September a festival of
music and popular traditions is
held in the town and groups
from all over the country take
part. The streets are decorated,
stallholders sell local produce,
and artists perform.
E Civic Museum
Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri,
9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 Mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
e Šarengrad The city, at the confluence of exhibits depicting the cultures

the Danube and the river Vuka, that have occupied this site
Map G2. * 100. k Osijek, 53 km
(33 miles). £ Vukovar, 30 km
was known as Volko, Walk or since 3,000 BC.
(19 miles). n Regional: Vinkovci, Wolkov (Vukovo in Croatian) in
(032) 338 425. the Middle Ages. Later it was E Vučedol Culture Museum
given to various families: the Vučedol 252. Tel (032) 373 930.
A medieval fort once Horvat, the Gorjanski and the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
controlled the heavy traffic Talovci. Conquered by the Turks, ∑ vučedol.hr/en/visit
along the river Danube at this Vukovar became a military
spot. In the 15th century, garrison and a key trading
Count Ivan Morović added centre. After libera-tion from t Erdut
a Franciscan Monastery. the Turks in 1687, it resumed
Map G2. * 1,500. k Osijek,
The fort, however, was its role as an advance post of
37 km (23 miles). @ from Osijek.
destroyed during the war the Christian Catholic world n Zlatna 2, Aljmaš, (031) 595 001.
with the Turks and the area against the Muslim and ∑ tz.opcina-erdut.hr
remained uninhabited Orthodox religions.
until their departure In 1736, it was The town of Erdut gained a place
late in the 17th century. given to the Eltz in history when, on 12 November
With the return of counts, who called 1995, an agreement between
the inhabitants, the the town Vukovar. As Croatia and Yugoslavia was
monks set up a the inhabitants were drawn up here, setting out the
school and collected Dove of Vučedol, Catholics or of the return of Slavonia and Baranja
archaeological items symbol of Vukovar Orthodox faith, to Croatia after almost four
for a museum. churches were built years of Serb occupation.
During the break-up for both religions, including a The town occupies an
of former Yugoslavia between Franciscan monastery (1727). important strategic position
1991 and 1995, the area was In 1751, the Eltz family built a overlooking the Danube, and a
heavily bombed. The church huge Baroque mansion. It was fortification was erected in Roman
and monastery have since nationalized after World War II times. In the medieval period a
been restored and the statue and then housed the Vukovar castle was built. It was damaged
of St Anthony of Padua has Municipal Museum (Gradski by the Turks, but then rebuilt by
been put back in position. muzej Vukovar). Badly damaged them. The castle was also used by
From the hill there are good in 1991, its contents were taken the Habsburgs. Two towers, one
views of the Danube. to Novi Sad and Belgrade. In circular and one square, survive
2001 the collections were from the old castle.
returned, and gradually restored. Erdut is also famous for wine.
r Vukovar The new permanent exhibits Its winery’s 75,000-litre, 150-year-
explore not only the rich old oak barrel is listed in the
Map G2. * 28,000. k Osijek, 33 km
archaeological history of the area Guinness Book of Records. The
(20 miles). £ Priljevo 2. @ from
Vinkovci. n J J Strossmayera 15, (032) and the development of the city, 19th-century Adamović-Cseh
442 889. _ Vukovar Film Festival but also its ethnic heritage and, Castle is next to the winery.
(end Aug). ∑ turizamvukovar.hr via a multimedia presentation,
the chronology of the recent
This Baroque city was once war. The Catholic Church of
known for its churches, elegant SS Philip and James (Sv. Filip i
18th-century buildings, Jakov) and the Orthodox Church
numerous museums and art of St Nicholas (Sv. Nikolaj) were
galleries. However, Vukovar has also badly damaged in 1991.
come to symbolize the war
which raged in Slavonia in 1991, E Vukovar Municipal Museum
when it was bombed by the Županijska 2. Tel (032) 441 270.
Serbs and the JNA (Yugoslav Open 7am–3pm Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun
People’s Army). Many years have by appt.
been spent restoring the historic
Baroque nucleus from the Environs
damage it sustained, and work Located about 4 km (2 miles)
on the town is still ongoing. downstream from the centre
Vukovar has a very long of Vukovar and situated on the The circular tower of the medieval
history, as evidenced by the right bank of the Danube is castle, Erdut
famous Dove of Vučedol from the Vučedol archaeological site,
2000 BC. This vessel, found one of the most prominent
5 km (3 miles) from Vukovar, archaeological sites in Europe.
is now in the Archaeological It is home to the Vučedol
y Osijek
Museum in Zagreb (see pp168–9). Culture Museum, which houses See pp194–7.
commemorate the victory in in bronze representing Victory

the countryside surrounding commemorates the fallen of
Topolje. The location has World War II. It is the work of
particular charm as the one of the great Croatian artists
church is set among trees of the 20th century, Antun
standing alone among a Augustinčić (see p24).
patchwork of fields of maize
and tobacco. The church was
sacked, however, and nearly
completely destroyed in the
conflicts following the break-up
of former Yugoslavia. The
building is now undergoing
extensive restoration although
the splendid furnishings have
sadly been lost.
Here, as in Darda (right),
there are several Hungarian
communities, who, together
Naive sculpture on show at Ernestinovo with the Croats, are gradually
returning after their exile during Mansion of the Esterházy barons, now the
u Ernestinovo the Yugoslav occupation. The Town Hall of Darda
Hungarian-style houses with
Map F2. * 1,200. k Osijek,
20 km (12 miles). @ from Osijek.
their overhanging roofs add a p Darda
n Regional: Kapucinska 40, Osijek, distinctive character to the area.
Map F2. * 5,400. k Osijek, 15km
(031) 214 852. _ Open-air exhibition In the autumn, long strings of
(9 miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional:
of sculpture (Aug). chilli peppers can be seen Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852.
hanging out to dry in the sun.
For many years, well-known An elegant mansion built by the
sculptors have been meeting Environs Esterházy barons in the second
in Ernestinovo to present their Around 10 km (6 miles) east of half of the 18th century, now
work in a summer show. This Topolje is the town of Batina. renovated and used as the
small village is now famous for In Roman times this was the Town Hall, is the only evidence
its open-air exhibitions. The site of a fortress on the banks of Darda’s history. Darda was
first exhibition was organized of the River Danube and was once a fortified city, represented
in 1976 by the sculptor Petar known by the name of Ad on 17th-century maps as a
Smajić. It took place in exile Militarae. Until the war of 1991, large fortress, connected to
from 1991 to 1996 and which depopulated this small Osijek by the 8-km (5-mile)
returned to Ernestinovo the town set among hills and bridge of Solimano. Built in
following year. Many works vineyards, there was a bridge 1566 to cross marshland, the
of art are displayed and connecting Baranja with bridge was destroyed in 1664
offered for sale in the village Hungary and Vojvodina, but by Nikola Zrinski (see p181) to
galleries. Ernestinovo was since its destruction, both river block the Turkish army. On that
badly damaged during the and road traffic have stopped. occasion the city was
war in the 1990s. On one of the small hills near subsequently devastated.
Topolje, a tall monument in In the recent war in the 1990s,
white stone with a female figure two 18th-century churches
i Kopački Rit were destroyed: the Catholic
Nature Park church of St John the Baptist
(Sv. Ivan Krstitelj) and the
See pp198–9. Orthodox church of St
Michael (Sv. Mihajlo).
o Topolje Environs
Bilje, 4 km (2 miles) south
Map F2. * 200. k Osijek, 46 km
of Darda, is the site of the
(28 miles). £ Beli Manastir, 16 km (10
miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional: information office for the
Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852. Kopački Rit Nature Park (see
pp198–9). It is housed in a
In 1687, after the victory in palace built by Prince Eugene
Vienna over the Turks, Prince of Savoy, who was granted the
Eugene of Savoy, commander small town of Bilje after the
of the Imperial forces, decided Hungarian-style houses with chilli peppers victory in Vienna over the
to build a church to hanging to dry, Topolje Turks (1687).
y Osijek R Church of the Holy Cross

Sv. Križ
The capital of Slavonia sits in the middle of a fertile plain. Franjevačka ulica, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 208
It is a centre of industry, a university town, and a lively 177. Open 8am–noon, 3–8pm.
Central European city with wide roads linking three districts: Northeast of the main square,
on the site of a sacred medieval
the Fort (Tvrđa), Lower Town (Donji grad) and Upper Town building, stands the Church
(Gornji grad). The city developed in 1786 when the three of the Holy Cross, built by the
areas merged. Due to its position on the River Drava, Osijek Franciscans between 1709
has always played a strategic role. In 1809 Emperor Francis I and 1720. Next to this is the
declared it a Royal Free Town (this document is now in the monastery (1699–1767) which
Museum of Slavonia). In 1991, after the declaration of housed the first printing press
in Slavonia (1735), and from
independence by Croatia, the city was bombed for over a the mid-18th century also
year by Yugoslav forces and much of the old centre (Upper housed schools of philosophy
Town) was damaged. Liberated in 1995, in 1998 Osijek and theology. In the church
became part of the Croat state again. is a statue of the Virgin from
the 15th century and some
liturgical furnishings.
R Church of St Michael
Sv. Mihovil
Trg Jurja Križanića, Tvrđa.
Tel (031) 208 990.
Open before Mass.
Standing a little way back from
the square is the Church of
St Michael, which was built by
the Jesuits. The façade is flanked
by two bell towers, and the
monastery has a splendid
doorway (1719). Below street
level the foundations of the
16th-century Kasim-paša
The main square in the heart of Tvrđa mosque are still visible.
Exploring Osijek Trg Ante Starčevića, with its

The Fort (Tvrđa) is the fortified shops, bars and restaurants.
centre of Osijek. It was Facing the square is the County
constructed in the early 18th building, built in the early 20th
century after liberation from century in the Renaissance style.
the Turks. Fortunately, Tvrđa
did not suffer serious damage E Museum of Slavonia
during the war in the 1990s. Muzej Slavonije
As a result it has preserved its Trg sv. Trojstva 6, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 250
Baroque architecture, which is 731. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. &
characterized by simple, austere 7 8 ^ = ∑ mso.hr
lines, unusual at this time. This On Tvrđa central square, the
lack of ornamentation was due old Town Hall has housed the War memorial in Kralja Držislava park
to the fact that the buildings Museum of Slavonia since 1946.
were intended for use by Geological, prehistoric, Greek, P Europe Avenue
soldiers and office workers. Illyrian and Roman objects are Europska avenija
Facing Trg Sv. Trojstva, the on display here. One section is This is the main road of Osijek,
central square of Tvrđa, named dedicated to ancient Roman linking the Fort (Tvrđa) to the
after the Holy Trinity, are various Mursa with statues, tombstones, Upper Town (Gornji grad). It
Baroque buildings, including the architectural pieces and a crosses some of the city’s parks,
Building of the Guard, with an coin collection. one of which is Kralja Držislava
18th-century clock tower, and Other sections are dedicated park, site of a striking bronze
the General Headquarters of to folklore with exhibits of memorial to the fallen of the
Slavonia, which is now part of the richly decorated costumes. 78th Infantry Regiment (Soldier
university, and recognizable by its Today these clothes provide in the Throes of Death), by Robert
monumental Baroque entrance. models for a flourishing Frangeš-Mihanović (1894),
The heart of city life is the handicrafts industry making which is regarded as the first
main square in the Upper Town, golden silk fabrics. modern sculpture in Croatia.
OSIJEK  195
R Church and Monastery VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

of St James
Sv. Jakov Practical Information
Kapucinska ulica 41, Gornji grad. Map F2. * 90,000. n Local:
Tel (031) 201 182. Open 6:30am– Županijska 2, (031) 203 755;
noon, 4–8pm & by appt. Regional: Kapucinska 40 (031)
The oldest building in Upper 214 852. _ City day (2 Dec),
Town is the Church of St James Summer Nights of Osijek (Jun–
Aug). ∑ tzosijek.hr
(1702–27), with a Capuchin
monastery. In the sacristy are Transport
mid-18th-century paintings k 20 km (12 miles) Vukovarska
about the life of St Francis. 67, (060) 339 339. @ Bartola
Kašića, (060) 334 466. £ Trg
R Church of SS Peter Ružičke, (031) 205 155.
and Paul
Interior of the Neo-Gothic Church of Sv. Petar i Pavao
SS. Peter and Paul Trg Marina Držica, Gornji grad. P Croatian National Theatre
Tel (031) 310 020. Open 2–6:30pm Hrvatsko narodno kazalište
E Museum of Fine Arts Mon, 9am–6:30pm Tue–Fri. Županijska ulica 9, Gornji grad.
Muzej likovnih umjetnosti This imposing Neo-Gothic Tel (031) 220 700.
Europska avenija 9. Tel (031) 251 280. church is dedicated to St Peter The Croatian National Theatre
Open Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri and St Paul. The church is was built in the Moorish style
(to 8pm Thu); Sep–Jun: 10am–6pm known as “katedrala” (cathedral) in the 19th century. Opera and
Tue–Fri (to 8pm Thu); 10am–1pm Sat by the locals because of its drama productions are put on
& Sun.& 8 by appt. ^ = size: the façade has towers from September to June.
∑ mlu.hr
90 m (295 ft) high. It was
The Museum of Fine Arts, designed by Franz Langenberg
founded in 1954, is housed in and built in the late 19th
an elegant 19th-century house. century. The 40 stained-glass
It has collections of paintings windows and some of the
from the 18th and 19th sculptures are by the
centuries, as well as works by Viennese artist Eduard Hauser.
contemporary Croatian artists. Most of the windows were
There is also a section dedicated bomb-damaged but have
to the Osijek School. been restored. Interior of the Croatian National Theatre
Osijek City Centre Key

1 Museum of Slavonia 6 Church of St James
Street-by-street pp196–7
2 Church of the Holy Cross 7 Church of SS Peter and Paul
3 Church of St Michael 8 Croatian National Theatre
4 Europe Avenue 0 metres 500
5 Museum of Fine Arts
0 yards 500
GO
RN Drava
JO
O B D R AV Footbridge
AL
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Š E TA L I
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Church of VATROSLAVA
SS Peter TRG ANTE
LISINSKOG Church of the
KARDINAL
and Paul STARČEVIĆA KA P U C I N S K A Museum of Church of Holy Cross

Fine Arts St Michael J. BO
Church of SEND
A
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St James
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M
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GUNDUL IĆEVA Train Station Bus Station RS
KA
400 m (440 yards) 400 m (440 yards) CE
S TA

Street-by-Street: the Fort (Tvrđa)

The fortified centre of Osijek (Tvrđa) was built on the site
of the Roman settlement of Mursa, which, in 131 AD,
became the capital of Lower Pannonia with the name of
Colonia Aelia Mursa. Destroyed by the Avars and rebuilt by
the Croats, it remained a military and administrative centre
until it was attacked and burned by the Turks in 1526.
Making the most of the strategic position, the Turks rebuilt
the fort and, under Suleyman II, also constructed a bridge
across the Drava. After the expulsion of the Turks in 1687,
the Austrian Emperor destroyed the mosques and other
reminders of Turkish rule. He then built a fortified series . Church of St Michael
of buildings, more like a city than a fort. Tvrđa now houses Constructed by Jesuits in the first
the Town Hall, the university faculties, and the Museum half of the 18th century, the church
of Slavonia. The only remaining part of the ramparts is has a Baroque façade flanked by
two towers.
towards the river Drava and includes the Water Gate
(Vodena Vrata).
TRG J.
KRIŽ ANIĆ A
FR
A
N
JE TRG
K
K SVE TOG
Ć
A
U TROJST VA
VI
H
M
A
IL
Č
RO
A
A
TE
F
IR
N
IN
PI
ĆA
G
E
VI
R
A
KO
AR
Building of the Guard

M
On the western side of the square stands

A
IĆ
the Building of the Guard, with a clock

V
tower from the 18th century. It now

O
houses the Archaeological Museum.

K
KA
S
M
O
IL
A
B
FI
Croatian Academy of RI
NG
Science and Arts ER
A
Key
Plague Column
Suggested route The centre of the square is
dominated by the “column
of the plague”, erected in 1729
in thanks for the
ending of an
outbreak of
the disease.
OSIJEK  197
Church and Monastery of the Holy Cross

The church, erected by Franciscans between 1709 and
1720, is next to the monastery which housed the first
printing press in Slavonia.
View of Osijek and the River Drava

Splendid views of the city can be enjoyed from the banks of
the Drava. It was once important for river trading, but trade
is now practically non-existent.
A
0 metres 100
IĆ
Č
0 yards 100
N
A
T
A
TRG VATROSL AVA

K
LISINSKOG
A
SK
B
O
SE
ET
N
D
O
LT
R
FE
KU
A
R Darda
A
ČK
FA
(see p193)
VA
JE
A
IR
AN
IM
P
FR
FR JA R
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A G A
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JE A E
N
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Ðakovo
FR
(see p190)
. Museum of Slavonia Headquarters of Slavonia

This museum contains On the northern side of the main square
interesting collections of of Tvrđa is the former Headquarters of
geological, prehistoric, Greek, Slavonia, now the University Rectorate,
Illyrian and Roman material. easily recognized by the imposing façade.
i Kopački Rit Nature Park

Park prirode Kopački rit
This triangular piece of land is bordered by the final stretch
of the river Drava before it meets the Danube. The landscape
changes with the seasons and becomes flooded when the
Danube overflows. The area covers 177 sq km (68 sq miles)
and can turn into an immense wetland marsh. At other times
it is a vast grassland plain with pools and ponds. There are
also dry areas which support enormous willows and tall oak
trees. A nature reserve since 1967, it has a rich and varied
fauna and for many months of the year provides a sanctuary
for hundreds of different species of bird, both migratory and
White Storks
domestic. A high embankment on the western side stops the
One of the park’s symbols, the
further spread of the flood waters. On top is a road which white stork is especially visible
allows cars to cross this part of the park. in the breeding season.
Park Entrance
The main
entrance to the
Kopački Rit Park
is in the village
of Bilje (see p193).
Osijek
ŝ Canal
0 kilometres
Sakada
0 miles 2
Sarvaška
Pond
Black Storks are rare;
only a few dozen pairs
of the bird inhabit
the park.
Drava
Drava
White-Tailed Eagle
The many birds of
prey maintain a
Lakes balance among the
Forty different species of fish live bird population. The
in the lakes and ponds which white-tailed eagle is the
form in the park. rarest eagle in Europe.
Waterfowl
Ponds and lakes provide
an ideal habitat for the
wading birds and swans
Map F–G2. n Ritska bb, Bilje,
which are present all
Kopačevo, (031) 445 445.
year round.
Open Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm
daily; Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily.
& 8 Information on boat
rides and bike hire available
at the entrance.
Deer and Roe Deer in their ∑ pp-kopacki-rit.hr
hundreds congregate in the
flooded areas of the park,
for brief periods of the year.
be
nu
Da
Great Crested Grebe
The mating display of
these birds is one of the
more spectacular sights
in the park.
Kopačko
Lake
Ducks and Geese

The mallard duck is a
much photographed
Bijelo
Lake
bird for its bright
plumage. There are also
pochards, shovelers
Hu
lov
and tufted ducks.

ski
Ca
na
l
Da
nu
be
Wild Boar
Drava During the spring it is
sometimes possible to see
whole families of this shy
animal in the oak woods.
Cormorant
Usually found in colonies, cormorants Key
build their nests in trees. Here,
thousands of their nests can be seen Major road
in the tall willow and poplar trees. Scenic road

such as tug-of-war, boulder- park and a moat surrounds

throwing, bare-back riding the medieval walls, the tower,
and other strenuous challenges the new building and the
and competitions. church. A town developed
A lively popular festival has around the fort, and with it
developed around the event; the splendid Baroque church
musicians perform in the streets of the Immaculate Conception
and there are displays of old (Začeće Marijino) of 1722.
crafts. Local handicrafts can be
bought and regional food can E Valpovo Museum
be sampled. Dvorac Prandau-Normann. Tel (031)
650 639. Open 4–7pm (8pm in
summer) Mon & Thu, 10am–noon
s Valpovo Tue, Wed & Fri, 3–6pm Sat.

Thermal spa in the village of Bizovac
(18 miles). @ (060) 390 060. n Trg
kralja Tomislava 2, (031) 650 306.
a Bizovac _ Summer in Valpovo: dancing, folk
Map F2. * 2,300. k Osijek, 20 km music and theatrical shows (summer).
(12 miles). £ from Osijek. @ from ∑ tz-valpovo.hr
Osijek. n Regional: Kapucinska 40,
Osijek, (031) 214 852. The centre of Valpovo stands
on the remains of the fort of
During the search for oil in the Lovallia, one of many fortified
middle of the 20th century, a settlements which the Romans
hot water spring was discovered established on the Pannonian
here. The water of the spring plain. In the Middle Ages, a castle Majláth, a mock-medieval manor in the
reaches a temperature of 90°C was erected to keep a look-out town of Donji Miholjac
(194°F) and is rich in minerals. A over the nearby Drava river. The
few years later, the thermal spa castle was later granted to the d Donji Miholjac
of Bizovačke toplice was built. Morović, Gorjanski and Norman
The spa proved to be extremely families. After the Turkish
(28 miles). £ Valpovo, 20 km (12 miles);
successful and it is now an conquest in 1526, the castle Našice, 30 km (18 miles). @ (060) 357
enormous complex including was used as a garrison. 060. n Trg Ante Starčevića 2, (031)
a hotel, two large swimming In 1687, after the expulsion 633 103. _ Miholjačko sijelo:
pools, and cabins for thermal of the Turks, the area was festival in costume (summer).
baths. Every day hundreds of handed over to the Hilleprand ∑ tz-donjimiholjac.hr
guests come here to undergo Prandau family. At the
thermal treatments which are beginning of the 19th century On the banks of the Drava river,
helpful in treating rheumatic the castle was destroyed by this small town lies on the
and respiratory illnesses, and fire and was then extensively Hungarian border. All traces
in healing injuries. rebuilt as a larger building, of the past have been erased,
The small centre of Bizovac which today houses the except for the Church of
is also well known in Slavonia Valpovo Museum (Muzej St Michael (Sv. Mihovil). The
for its exquisite gold and Valpovštine). The museum mock-medieval Majláth Manor
silver embroidery. The work contains period furniture and was built at the beginning of
is carried out by the young interesting archaeological finds. the 20th century by the Majláth
women of the area, usually to The complex stands in a large family. It has pinnacles and a tall
a commission. tower on the façade. The manor
is now the Town Hall.
 Bizovačke toplice
Sunčana 39. Tel (031) 685 100. P Majláth Manor
∑ bizovacke-toplice.hr Vukovarska 1. Tel Tourist office (031)
633 103. Open by appt. &
Environs
Around 9 km (5 miles) south Environs
of Bizovac is the village of About 25 km (15 miles) west is
Brođanci, famous for the the village of Čađavica. Traces
Olympics of Ancient Sports, from ancient Croatian settlements
held here in August every year. have been discovered near here.
During the competition, The Romanesque church of
athletes take part in some of St Peter was used by the Turks
the sports once practised by The imposing castle at Valpovo, now as a mosque and was renovated
the peasants of Slavonia, a museum in the 18th century.
f Našice two-storey building has been second half of the 13th century
restored. This building is now by the Aba counts. Today, the
(26 miles). £ (060) 333 444. @ (060)
the Civic Museum. houses in Voćin are in ruins. All
334 030. n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4, that remains of the Church of
(031) 614 951. ∑ tznasice.hr
E Civic Museum St Mary (Sv. Marija), which was
Pejačevićev trg 5. Tel (031) 613 414. built by King John Corvinus in
A small plateau is the setting Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. & the first half of the 15th century,
for the town of Našice, which 8 (by appt). ^ ∑ zmn.hr is part of the apse wall.
is surrounded by vineyards
and woods. Built on the site
of an ancient settlement, it g Orahovica
was referred to in the first Map F2. * 4,300. k Osijek,
half of the 13th century under 62 km (38 miles). £ (033) 646 079.
the name of Nekche, as @ (033) 673 231. n Trg sv. Florijana
property of the Knights bb, (033) 673 540. _ Spring in
Templar. After the dissolution Orahovica: folklore event (Jun).
of this order in 1312, it passed ∑ tzgorahovica.hr
to the Gorjanski nobles and,
later, through marriage to the The town of Orahovica is well
counts of Ilok, before falling known in Croatia for its wines.
into the hands of the Turkish It was a feudal estate in 1228,
forces in 1532. and later a Turkish garrison,
After the expulsion of the acquiring its present-day look
Turks, Našice’s fortunes in the 18th century.
changed. The Franciscans On one of the hills around Ornate altar in the Baroque church
returned and restored the the town stand the ruins of the of St Roch, Virovitica
Church of St Anthony of castle Rose town (Ružica grad),
Padua (Sv. Antun Padovanski). one of the largest of Croatia’s h Virovitica
They also rebuilt their medieval forts. The walls were
Map E2. * 16,000. k Osijek, 89 km
monastery, which had been 9m (29 ft) thick and enclosed
(55 miles). £ Ulica Stjepana Radića,
founded here at the start of military buildings, a church, (033) 730 121. @ Trg fra. B. Gerbera 1,
the 14th century. Both needed and the governor’s residence. (033) 721 113. n Trg Kralja Tomislava 1,
repairing after war damage The complex was so large it (033) 721 241. _ Day of the City
suffered in 1991. was often referred to as a city. (16 Aug). ∑ tz-virovitica.hr
A short distance away is The Turks burnt down the fort,
a large manor house, built then partially restored it and Documents from the end of
at the beginning of the used it as a military garrison. the first millennium give the
19th century in Neo-Classical Liberated in 1690, the fort was town its name of Wereuche.
style by the Pejačević family, once again used for defence, It was declared a free town by
where the musician Dora and a village, inhabited by Serbs, King Coloman in 1234 and it
Pejačević (1885–1923) lived. developed around its base. developed into an agricultural
Situated in a large park, the and trading centre. Later
Environs occupied by the Turks, it
Along the road to remained under their rule until
Kutjevo, 5 km (3 miles) 1684. When it later flourished, all
south of Orahovica, Ottoman traces were destroyed.
near the village of The Baroque Church of
Duzluk, is the Orthodox St Roch (Sv. Rok), decorated
Monastery of St Nicholas by the sculptor Holzinger and
(Manastir Sv. Nikola), the painter Göbler, dates from
which has ancient the 18th century. On the site of
frescoes and the ancient Wasserburg Castle
illuminated manuscripts. stands the imposing Pejačević
Some 30 km (18 miles) Manor (1800–4), now the Civic
from Orahovica, Museum (Gradski muzej) with
following the road to archaeological and folklore
Virovitica, then turning collections and an art gallery.
left for Čeralije, is Voćin,
a small village where E Civic Museum
the destruction caused Dvorac Pejačević, Trg bana Jelačića 23.
by the war in 1991 is Tel (033) 722 127. Open 8am–3pm
still evident. The village Mon, Fri; 8am–7pm Tue–Thu;
lies at the foot of a large 10am–1pm Sat. & 8 (by appt).
Church of St Anthony of Padua in Našice castle built in the ^ ∑ muzejvirovitica.hr
THE NORTHERN
COUNTIES
The landscape in this part of Croatia is made up of a variety of elements: the
rolling hills of Zagorje with their therapeutic spring waters and thermal spas;
the county of Međimurje, which is famous for its wines; the cities of Varaždin
and Čakovec, which developed around ancient castles; Koprivnica, surrounded
by lush countryside and vineyards, and Bjelovar and Križevci with their palaces.
The principal towns in the area have The high hills of Zagorje are covered in
ancient origins and two, Varaždin and forests, broken up only by the clearings
Križevci, were also at various times the created for imposing medieval castles,
seat of the Sabor, the Croatian Parliament. many of which have since been
Bjelovar is the most recent and largest transformed into sumptuous Baroque
city-fortress in the country. Even before residences. In Podravina, drained by the
the 1991 war which affected the south of River Drava, which in some parts flows
this area, the wars of the second half of the along the Hungarian border, the hills are
18th century had already destroyed all lower and are characterized by vineyards
evidence of the Middle Ages and Turkish and sparse woodland.
occupation. However, there are many This part of Croatia has preserved all
religious buildings in the area, including kinds of ancient customs and traditions,
a number of Catholic Franciscan and a source of inspiration for the Naive art
Pauline monasteries in places once movement. The home of Naive art is
inhabited by Orthodox communities. Hlebine, where artists such as Ivan
Religious life is still very active here and Generalić encouraged and fostered the
church buildings are cherished. talent of local amateur painters.
Stacks of maize in the countryside between Belec and Marija Bistrica

The Black Madonna of Marija Bistrica, visited by pilgrims in their thousands
Exploring the Northern Counties

This is an area of good, fertile agricultural land and the lush
countryside produces an abundance of maize, tobacco and
sunflowers. The hillsides are covered in vineyards as far as
the eye can see and yield wines, good whites in particular,
which can be bought along the Wine Road, from wineries
or in the village shops. Despite these attractions, the
region does not see a great deal of international tourism.
This is particularly true of Međimurje, the valley crossed by
the River Mura, granted to Croatia after World War I. Part of
the population here is of Hungarian origin and the people
have preserved their Hungarian customs and traditions.
A side chapel of St Mary of the Snows,
Marija Bistrica
ŠTRIGOVA
Maribor
VINICA
VARAŽDIN
Maribor
Kneginec
The castle in Veliki Tabor TRAKOŠĆAN
VA R A Ž D I N S K A
Ivanec
LEPOGLAVA
PREGRADA Podrute
VELIKI
KRAPINA Ivanščica
TABOR KRAPINSKO- Mihovljan
BELEC
Novi
Marof
Miljana ZAGORSKA AS
Zlatar
SP
Krapinske
R MAL
KUMROVEC Toplice E THE
TOUR OF TH
KLANJEC BEDEKOVČINA Konjćina
Krapina
Zabok
MARIJA BISTRICA
0 kilometres 15 Oroslavje
0 miles 15 Sveti Ivan
Stubičke Toplice Zelina
Jakovlje ca
d ni Kašina
d ve
Zaprešić
Me
Zagreb Zagreb
Sights at a Glance
1 Varaždin pp206–7 0 Kumrovec p Bjelovar
2 Čakovec q Klanjec a Križevci
3 Štrigova w Bedekovčina
Tour
4 Vinica e Marija Bistrica
5 Lepoglava t Belec r Tour of the Thermal Spas
6 Trakošćan y Varaždinske Toplice pp216–17
7 Krapina u Ludbreg
8 Pregrada i Koprivnica
9 Veliki Tabor o Ðurđevac
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES  205
Getting Around HUNGARY

Motorways connect Zagreb to Maribor in Slovenia, SLOVENIA
• ZAGREB
passing through Krapina, and serve Varaždin en route
for Hungary. Cars still use state roads which run more
or less parallel to the two motorways. State road 2 BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
goes from the Slovenian border, northwest of Varaždin,
and continues on towards Osijek. A railway line runs ADRIATIC
alongside state road 3 and at Varaždin interconnects SEA
with railway lines from Zagreb, Slovenia and Hungary.

There are also train connections to Slovenia and Locator Map
Hungary from Čakovec and Koprivnica stations.
Mursko
Središče
Podturen
Domašinec
MEĐIMURSKA Nagykanizsa
ČAKOVEC Goričan
Kotoriba
Mala
Subotica Donja
Dubrava
Dr A Naive painting from the Hlebine Gallery

Vrbanovec av
LUDBREG a
VARAŽDINSKE
TOPLICE Peteranec
KOPRIVNICA Hlebine
Apatovec
Reka Koprivnički Bregi
Sokolovac
Vukovec
K O P R I V N I Č K O - K R I Ž E VA Č K A
Carevdar
Novigrad-
Podravski
ĐURÐEVAC
KRIŽEVCI
Hampovica
Vel. Raven
Sv. Ivan
Žabno Predavac Virovitica
Vrbovec BJELOVAR
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Varaždin Castle in winter
1 Varaždin wear richly decorated blue

uniforms and bearskin hats.
Traces of occupation from the Neolithic age, the La Tene To the east of the square
civilization and the Roman period have been found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača
Varaždin castle. Despite this, the first mention of the town is Drašković), built in the late 17th
century with a Rococo façade.
found in a document from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed
The Croat Parliament met here
the rights of the Zagreb Curia to the thermal spas in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands
In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it the Renaissance Ritz House,
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century one of the oldest in the town,
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by as evidenced by the date (1540)
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it engraved on the doorway.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily.
The Church of the Assumption
became a cathedral in 1997.
Both the church and the
annexed monastery were built
in the first half of the 17th
century by the Jesuits. Later,
the Pauline order moved in.
The cathedral’s tall façade is
enlivened by pillars. The interior
is a triumph of the Baroque. The
main altar occupies the width of
the central nave and has gilded
The splendid castle, today home to the Civic Museum columns, stuccoes and engrav-
ings. At the centre of the altar is
P Castle and Civic Museum E Gallery of Old and an Assumption of the Virgin,
Stari grad & Gradski muzej Modern Masters reminiscent of Titian’s work in
Strossmayerovo šetalište 7. Tel (042) Galerija starih i novih majstora Venice. Evenings of Baroque
658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172. music concerts are held here.
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^ Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
It is unknown when exactly this Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
castle was built, though some The gallery has a large
documents suggest it dates collection of works by artists
back to the 12th century. It was from all over Europe, particularly
built over the ruins of an landscapes by Flemish and
observation tower and, in the Italian artists, and portraits by
15th century, two round towers German and Dutch painters.
were added. The castle was
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava
who created a Renaissance Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508.
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace Rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of
facing courtyards. (Palača Drašković): Trg kralja the Assumption
The castle’s present look dates Tomislava 3. Closed to the public.
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist
Museum, which has collections one of the oldest buildings in Sv. Ivan Krstitelj
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has 166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30–
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily.
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The
the ancient walls that existed gave it to the city. It is guarded façade has a Renaissance
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and
P Hercer Palace VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Palača Hercer
Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,000. n Local:
Entomological Museum: Tel (042) Ivana Padovca 3, (042) 210 987;
658 760. Open same opening times Regional: Uska 4, (042) 210 096.
as the palace. & 8 _ Baroque evenings, Varaždin,
Built at the end of the 18th (Sep–Oct); Gastrolov (Oct).
∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
century (the founders’ coat of
arms is on the door), the palace Transport
has housed the well-organized £ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
Entomological Section of the @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
Civic Museum (Entomološki
odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
From 1962 to 1980 his work was for its library of parchments,
two statues of St Francis of carried on by his daughter Ružica, incunabula and manuscripts, and
Assisi and St Anthony of Padua. a biologist. As well as thousands some of the oldest documents
The interior has eight side of insects, the museum also has in ancient Croatian (kajkavski).
chapels and an ornate gilded a herbarium. From time to time,
pulpit from the late 17th temporary exhibitions on a P National Theatre
century. The bell tower is 54 m variety of themes are organized. Narodno kazalište
(177 ft) high. Ulica Augusta Cesarca 1.
In front of the church is one R Church of the Holy Trinity Tel (042) 214 688.
of the copies of the Monument Sv. Trojstvo Open for performances only.
of Bishop Gregory of Nin by Kapucinski trg 7. Tel (042) 213 550. Built by Hermann Helmer in 1873,
Ivan Meštrović. The adjacent Open 9am–noon, 6–7pm Mon–Sat, this is one of the main cultural
pharmacy has many works Sun before and after Mass. centres in the city. During the
of art, among them some The church dates from the summer and autumn, theatre-
allegorical frescoes by Ivan early 18th century and houses goers from all over Europe
Ranger (see p210). numerous Baroque paintings, come to attend performances.
Varaždin Town Centre

1 Castle and Civic Museum
2 Gallery of Old and V. N A Z O R A
Modern Masters Castle and

Civic Museum TRG BANA
3 Tomislav Square JELAČIĆA
4 Cathedral of the
Gallery of Old
Assumption and Modern Masters
A.
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5 Church of St John
L J. GAJE
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TRG
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E VA
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TRG 500m (550 yards)
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SLOBODE
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Vineyards in the countryside around Čakovec
2 Čakovec while fighting against the The Renaissance Old Castle,

Map D1. * 16,000. £ (040) 384 333. Ottomans in defending Siget, of which only the first floor
@ Masarykova ulica, (040) 313 947. and became a national hero. remains, and the Baroque New
n Local: Kralja Tomislava 1, (040) 313 On 29 May 1579, one of his Castle with a rectangular plan,
319. Regional: Ruđera Boškovića 2, successors, a member of face each other inside the
(040) 374 064. _ Carnival in the Zrinski family of Siget, medieval walls. For a long time
Međimurje (Feb); The Town of Čakovec guaranteed tax privileges to the Old Castle was used as a
Day. ∑ tourism-cakovec.hr whoever went to live in the city prison. It is now being restored
that was developing around the and is to be used in future for
In the second half of the fort. This date is considered the cultural activities. The church
13th century, on a site once founding of the city and is has been reopened for worship.
inhabited by Romans, Count celebrated with a festival. The Međimurje Civic
Demetrius Chaky, a magistrate Bastions and a moat were Museum of Čakovec has on
at the court of King Bela IV, built added in this period as defence display exhibits of prehistoric
a tower here which was called against cannon fire. Inside the material, many Roman finds,
Chaktornya. In the following walls, a four-storey palace was and ethnographic collections.
century, the main defensive built around a square courtyard. There is also an exhibition
structure in Međimurje was In 1671 Petar Zrinski led a dedicated to the local composer,
built around the tower. In 1547 plot to separate Croatia from J Slavenski (1896–1955), who
Emperor Ferdinand gave it to the Kingdom of Hungary. was known for his love of the
the Ban (governor) of Croatia, The plot was discovered and traditional music of the region.
Nikola Zrinski (see p181), Zrinski and his co-conspirator Čakovec is the main
together with a large estate, as Fran Krsto Frankopan were administrative centre of the
a reward for the victory against beheaded on 30 April 1671. Međimurje, a frontier region
the Turks and to settle a debt. Čakovec then came under the which borders Slovenia and
Nikola Zrinski died heroically direct rule of the Emperor. Hungary. The land in the
western part of the region is
hilly with broad valleys, and is
renowned for its wines, while
the fertile plains of the eastern
part produce cereal crops.
E Međimurje Civic Museum

Trg Republike 5. Tel (040) 313 499.
Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri (Apr–Sep:
from 6am); 10am–1pm Sat & Sun.
&8^=
Environs
In the village of Šenkovec, 2 km
(1 mile) from Čakovec, stands
the Church of St Helen (Sv.
Old and New Castles of Čakovec Jelena). What little remains of its
original Gothic form has been 17th century. At one time the
integrated into an overall palace was famous for its rich
Baroque appearance. The furnishings, its art collections,
church is all that survives of and for the fact that the
the monastery founded by the Hungarian king, Matthias
Paulines in 1376. It has Corvinus, was often a
been rebuilt at various guest here.
times, firstly after a The Church of
Protestant revolt, then St Jerome (Sv.
because of a fire and Jerolim) stands on
finally after an a hill at the edge of
earthquake. the village. Restoration
Inside the church has uncovered the
are the tombstones of Fresco on the door of the frescoes above
the powerful Zrinski church of St Jerome, the doorway and
family, the lords of Štrigova in the niches on
Čakovec: that of the façade, which is Frescoed façade of the Church of
Nikola Zrinski and his wife flanked by two harmonious St Jerome, Štrigova
Catherine Frankopan, and bell towers and culminates in
also that of Petar Zrinski. a curvilinear tympanum. Drašković counts, which was
The church also contains a In the church are numerous situated in the centre of a
number of tombs of members trompe-l’œil paintings by the large park.
of the Knežević family, who Tyrolean artist Ivan Ranger In the late 19th century,
became the successors to (see p210), depicting Angels, Count Marko Bombelles created
the Zrinskis. the Evangelists and the Life of Opeka Park, 2 km (1 mile) south
St Jerome. There are also statues of Vinica. This large arboretum
representing the fathers of was at that time the only one
the Church. of its kind in Croatia. Here
Bombelles planted exotic trees
and plants from around the
4 Vinica world, including the Americas,
Map D1. * 1,200. @ from
Japan, Tibet and the Caucasus,
Varaždin. n Trg Matije Gupca 14, over an area of flat and
(042) 722 233. hilly ground.
Next to this wonderful
This small town lies at the foot park, declared a protected
of vine-covered hills. It was first nature reserve in 1961, a school
mentioned in documents of of horticulture has been set
1353 as the site of a medieval up. This school has several
fortress. At one time it was glasshouses and a large garden
known for the large palace built of flowering plants.
by the Patačić counts on the site
One of the frescoes decorating the church of their old castle. The palace is Y Opeka Park
of St Helen, Čakovec now in ruins, as is that of the Open at all times.
3 Štrigova
Map D1. * 450. £ from Čakovec.
@ from Čakovec. n Štrigova 22a,
(040) 851 325. ∑ strigova.info
Numerous finds of Roman

origin have been discovered
here, leading historians to
believe that this village was
built on the site of the Roman
city of Stridon, the birthplace
of St Jerome.
The counts of Štrigovčak
lived here, but their castle was
destroyed during a raid by the
Turks. Nearby, the Bannfy counts
also built a castle, which was
transformed into a palace in the Spring floral display in Opeka Park, near Vinica
UNESCO’s list of Intangible

Cultural Heritage. Lepoglava also
hosts an annual international
lace festival in September.
R Church of St Mary
Trg 1. hrvatskog sveučilišta 3.
6 Trakošćan
Map D1. @ for Trakošćan.
n Trakošćan, (042) 796 281.
∑ trakoscan.hr
The pretty surroundings

of the Castle of Trakošćan,
and its excellent state of
Choir stalls in the Church of St Mary, frescoed by the artist Ivan Ranger conservation, make this
one of the most visited tourist
5 Lepoglava a modern penitentiary was built sights in Zagorje. The castle
Map D1. * 8,500. £ (042) 791 193.
and the monastery buildings was built to guard the road
@ for Ivanec. n Hrvatskih pavlina 7, were returned to which descends from
(042) 494 317. _ International Lace the church. Ptuj towards the
Festival (Sep). ∑ lepoglava-info.hr The Pauline valley of the River
brotherhood may Sava. The castle
A pretty town on the Bednja also have been was listed in
river, nestled between the responsible for 1434 as one
forested slopes of two mountain instigating of the properties
peaks, Lepoglava rose to Lepoglava’s other granted by
prominence from 1400, when claim to fame: the Typical lace from Sigismund of Austria
the Pauline order built a church making of exquisite Lepoglava to the Count of
and monastery here, which and intricate lace, a Celje. It was used for
gradually became a prominent centuries-old tradition and defence purposes until the
seat of learning and scholarship. its centuries old Lace School. end of Turkish rule. In 1568
By the mid-17th century the Along with the lace of Pag and it became the property of
monastery had become one of Hvar, it has been entered into the Drašković counts.
of Croatia’s first universities;
at around the same time the
church, dedicated to St Mary Ivan Ranger (Johannes Baptiste Ranger)
(Sv. Marija), was enlarged and Born in Götzens, near Innsbruck in Austria, in 1700,
embellished. It is a Baroque Ivan Ranger joined the Pauline order at a very
Gothic building with a richly early age. Not much is known of his years
furnished interior, noted for an as an apprentice, but it is certain that he
organ dating 1649, which still lived for a time in Italy, where he
plays, and the magnificent encountered the Baroque style
series of frescoes by Ivan in Venice, Rome, Bologna and
Ranger. Also of interest is the Mantua. At the age of 30 he was
pulpit and the altar of St Anne invited to Lepoglava, then the
by the Pauline monk and headquarters of the order, to
sculptor Aleksije Königer. which he remained loyal until his
death in 1753. He also worked in
In 1854, after the dissolution
nearby towns and in Slovenia (at
of the Pauline order, Lepoglava’s
the monastery of Olimje and the
monastery entered a more castle-monastery of Sveti Jernej
notorious period of its history. in Rogatec). In line with Pauline
It was converted into a prison, principles, he created a school of
in which many major Croatian fresco painters. With these artists
revolutionaries, dissidents and he produced colourful fresco cycles
activists of the 20th century which were full of expression (the
were incarcerated, including trompe-l’œil paintings also reveal
Josip Broz (Tito), Moša Pijade, great technical skill). His themes
Archbishop Alojzije Stepinac were always religious, and he was Fresco painted by the Pauline monk
and Franjo Tuđman. However, much imitated. Ivan Ranger
at the start of the 21st century,
the first half of the 19th century

he was a prominent figure in
the movement which promoted
the revival of Croatian politics
and culture.
E Museum of Krapina
Neanderthal Men
Šetalište V Sluge bb. Tel (049) 371 491.
Open Mar & Oct: 9am–6pm Tue-Sun;
Apr–Jun & Sep: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–
7pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am– 4pm
Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8
by appt. ^
Castle of Trakošćan, now a museum
Environs
During the second half of the presentations and exhibits Just northeast of Krapina is the
19th century, it was transformed explore the life and culture of sanctuary of the Madonna of
into a splendid Neo-Gothic Neanderthal man. Jerusalem in Trški Vrh, a magnif-
residence by Juraj Drašković. Krapina is first documented in icent example of Baroque art in
He also added an artificial lake, 1193 as the site of a castle, Croatia. Built in 1750–61, on
a park and gardens, while at now destroyed, built to a square plan, the façade
the same time preserving some guard the river of the has a bell tower with an
of the military aspects of the same name. After the onion dome. Inside is
castle. It stands on a wooded danger of Turkish an arched portico with
hilltop and is surrounded by a attack had passed, rounded corners
high wall with a tower, which it was conceded and four chapels
encircles the imposing palace. to the Keglević similar to the
All 32 of the rooms of the counts and tower. The walls,
castle are now a museum became an vaults, ceilings and
where furniture, armoury, important dome of the church
vestments and paintings, as administrative town. are covered with a
well as a rare series of portraits It also became a religious cycle of frescoes of biblical
of the Drašković family, are centre. In the mid-17th subjects and scenes from
on display. century, a Franciscan Mary’s life by the
monastery and the Bust of Ljudevit Styrian artist, Anton
P Castle and Museum Baroque Church of Gaj, Krapina Lerchinger. The
Tel (042) 796 422. Open Apr–Oct: St Catherine were built. ornate main altar
9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm The sacristy and some of the (with a statue of the Virgin
daily. & 8 ^ = monastery rooms are decorated brought from Jerusalem in
with vivid frescoes by Ivan Ranger. 1669) is by sculptor Filip Jacob
In one of the town squares is Straub of Graz, while the pulpit
7 Krapina a monument to Ljudevit Gaj, and the other three altars are
Map D1. * 4,500. £ Frana Galovića
born in Krapina in 1809. During the work of Anton Mersi.
bb, (049) 328 028. @ A. Starčevića,
(049) 315 018. n Magistratska 28,
(049) 371 330. _ Week of music
and Kajkaviana culture (Sep).
∑ tzg-krapina.hr
This town is well known in the

scientific field because of the
remains of Krapina man, Homo
krapinensis, who lived in the
Palaeolithic age, that were
found nearby. The Neanderthal
skeleton, discovered in 1899
in a hillside cave, is now in the
Archaeological Museum in
Zagreb. The Museum of
Krapina Neanderthal Men
is one of the most modern
museums in Croatia. Multimedia Fresco in the Baroque Church of the Madonna of Jerusalem in Trški Vrh
8 Pregrada fact that it was royal property

justified its imposing
Map C1. * 1,700. n Trg Gospe
Kunagorske 3, (049) 377 050.
appearance). It was granted
_ Carnival (Feb), Branje grožđa, to the family of the Ratkaj
grape harvest (Sep). ∑ pregrada.hr counts, who in the 16th
century transformed it into a
The village church has ancient sumptuous residential palace.
origins but now presents a Walls with four semicircular
19th-century appearance, made towers encircle the main body
distinctive by the façade flanked of the castle, which is built on a
by two pointed bell towers. pentagonal ground-plan. Two
Inside, as well as the tombs of floors with porticoes face the
members of the Keglević and central courtyard. The bastions
Gorup families, there is also a (no longer extant) made Veliki
very large organ, which was at Tabor a fortress to be feared.
one time in Zagreb Cathedral. The castle is now a museum.
On the site of a medieval
castle, in the Hrvatsko Zagorje P Castle
woods along the Wine Road, Inside the Church of St Mary of the Košnički Hum 1, Desinić. Tel (049) 374
stands Gorica Castle, once Visitation, Vinagora 970. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm Tue–
owned by the Keglević family Fri, 9am–7pm Sat & Sun; Mar & Oct:
and the feudal manor of the area. sanctuary entrance, which also 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat &
Two round towers frame the once had a drawbridge. These Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun.
structure of the elaborate façade. towers are now used as chapels.
Other buildings behind the Environs
towers are now used as a winery. Miljana, just to the southwest
9 Veliki Tabor of Veliki Tabor, is home to one of
Environs the most picturesque Baroque
Map C1. @ from Krapina or Zagreb
On a vineyard-covered hill 7 km castles in Croatia. Construction
for Desinić. n Košnički Hum 1,
(4 miles) west of Pregrada, in Desinić, (049) 374 970. began in the 17th century but
Vinagora, stands an unusual _ Knights tournament (Sep). was not completed until the
sanctuary of ancient origins. ∑ veliki-tabor.hr mid-19th century. This time
This place of worship became span resulted in a variety of
the parish church in 1780. One of the most famous and styles; there are striking
The church of St Mary of the best-preserved castles in 18th-century Rococo frescoes
Visitation (Sv. Marija od Pohoda) Croatia, Veliki Tabor stands on in some rooms, and some
contains some Gothic statues a bare hilltop, making it visible delightful artworks.
and rich furnishings. The from a great distance. It was
church is surrounded by royal property in the 14th
walls which encircle the hill. century at the time of King 0 Kumrovec
Two round towers guard the Matthias Corvinus I (the
Map C1. * 300. £ (049) 553 129.
@ from Zagreb. n Ulica Josipa
Broza 12, (049) 553 728. _ Marriage
of Zagorje (Sep). ∑ kumrovec.hr
This was the birthplace of

Marshal Tito, born Josip Broz
in 1892. His house, which dates
from 1860, was turned into a
museum in 1953. On display
are the furniture and household
goods which belonged to
his family.
In the square in front of the
house is a monument to Tito,
the work of Antun Augustinčić
in 1948. Along with other village
houses, Tito’s birthplace is now
part of a folk museum, the
Ethnological Museum – Staro
Selo, which means “old village”.
The preserved thatched houses
are furnished with utensils and
Castle of Veliki Tabor, one of the best-preserved castles in Croatia household goods of the time.
Castle of Trakošćan, built in around 1334 as part of Croatia’s northwestern fortification system
e Marija Bistrica
Map D1. * 1,000. £ Zlatar Bistrica,
5 km (3 miles). @ from Zagreb.
n Zagrebačka bb, (049) 468 380.
_ Summer in Marija Bistrica (Jun–
Aug). ∑ tz-marija-bistrica.hr
This small village lying on

the northern side of the
Medvednica mountain is home
to the Sanctuary of St Mary of
Bistrica (Majke Božje Bistričke),
one of the best-known
Birthplace of Marshal Tito, part of the Staro Selo museum in Kumrovec pilgrimage sites in Croatia.
There has been a church on
Reconstructed workshops have E Antun Augustinčić Gallery this site since 1334. In the mid-
been set up to demonstrate Trg A Mihanovića 10. Tel (049) 550 16th century, when a Turkish
crafts such as hemp- and 343. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; invasion seemed imminent,
flax-weaving. Oct–Mar: 9am–3pm Tue–Sun. a wooden statue of the Black
Madonna with Child was
E Ethnological Museum – hidden in the church.
Staro Selo w Bedekovčina Some decades later, it was
Kumrovec bb. Tel (049) 225 830. Open miraculously rediscovered,
Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm daily; Mar & Oct: Map D1. * 3,500. £ Trg A
to great joy and emotion.
9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat & Starčevića 12, (049) 213 106.
@ from Zagreb. n Regional: It still inspires tremendous
Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily. & 8 devotion today.
Magistratska 3, Krapina, (049) 233
653. _ Wine fair (Jun). The church has been enlarged
several times and was the first
q Klanjec This town is home to a to be declared a Sanctuary of
Map C1. * 600. £ (049) 550404.
particularly attractive castle Croatia by Parliament (1715).
@ from Zagreb, Krapina, Zabok. and palace, one of many It was rebuilt in 1883 by the
n Trg A Mihanovića 2, (049) 551 002. buildings erected over the architect Hermann Bollé. He
_ Thanksgiving to Autumn (Oct). ruins of ancient castles in adopted an eclectic approach,
& 8 ∑ klanjec.hr the Zagorje hills. The combining Romanesque, Gothic
majority of these were and Baroque styles. The church
Antun Augustinčić (1900– destroyed during the also has a large frescoed portico.
79) is one of the most wars against the Turks. The sanctuary possesses a
important Croatian This particular castle rich store of beautiful religious
sculptors of the 20th was built in the objects: gold and silver
century, and his works early 18th century, pieces, furnishings and sacred
can be seen around and now houses vestments adorned with gold
the world. He was born public offices. embroidery. Some objects are
here, and the Antun The castle is built now on exhibit in the Diocesan
Augustinčić Gallery Statue of Antun on a quadrangular Museum in Zagreb.
displays his work. Mihanović, Klanjec plan, on two levels
Also of interest are and with a sloping R Sanctuary of St Mary
the Franciscan monastery and roof. Coats of arms are of the Snows
the annexed church of St Mary, emblazoned above the Trg pape Ivana Pavla II 32.
both built in the 17th century two entrance doors. Tel (049) 469 156. Open by appt.
by the powerful Erdödy family,
whose tombs lie here. Tours can
be arranged by the tourist office.
In the main square is a
monument by Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović, dedicated to the
poet Antun Mihanović,
who wrote the Croatian
national anthem.
Another memorial dedicated
to Antun Mihanović is the
9-m (29-ft) memorial stone
which stands in Zelenjak, 3 km
(2 miles) north of Klanjec, in the
direction of Kumrovec. Sanctuary of St Mary of the Snows in Marija Bistrica, a place of pilgrimage
r Tour of the Thermal Spas

Between Varaždin and Zagreb are six thermal spas
(toplice), dating from different eras. Set in a pleasant hilly
landscape of vineyards and woods, the spas are popular
with Croatians and visitors from nearby European
countries. As well as being attracted by the well-
equipped thermal spas, visitors are also drawn by the
cities and towns nearby. In addition there are numerous
castles, sanctuaries, churches and museums, making this Decorative detail from the Roman
a very pleasant area to stay in. baths, Varaždinske Toplice
5 Sutinske Toplice
4 Krapinske Toplice Located 8 km (5 miles) northwest of
This thermal spa was Zlatar, at an altitude of 170 m (557 ft),
built in the second half this site has been famous since the
of the 19th century near 13th century for its curative waters,
a hot water spring rich in which are slightly radioactive and rich
calcium, magnesium and in minerals, particularly calcium and
carbonate. The hospital treats magnesium. Mud baths are particularly
rheumatic, cardiovascular and effective for the treatment of a variety
neurological illnesses with of ailments. Outdoor pools only.
bathing in its three indoor
pools (the hotel also has out
door pools and a whirlpool)
and mud treatments.
Belec
Mihovljan
Krapina
Donja
Šemnica
Zlatar
Zlatar
Bistrica
Bedekovčina 1 Terme Jezerčica

Zabok This thermal spa is located in
Danja Stubica. There is a hotel
(with thermal water conducted to
every bathroom), a wellness
spa and beauty centre, a sauna,
fitness programmes, massage,
Zagreb face and body treatments
and several pools.
Key
Tour route
Motorway
Other roads
3 Terme Tuhelj
This spa town is 2 Stubičke Toplice
40 km (25 miles) This spa is located at the foot of Mount
from Zagreb. At the Medvednica, 3 km (2 miles) from Donja
hotel with its eight Stubica. The spa dates from 1776. There
pools, rheumatic, is a hospital here that specializes in the
respiratory, urological treatment of degenerative diseases of
and gynaecological the joints and spine. The hot spa waters
illnesses are treated. emerge at 69°C (156°F).
Tips for Drivers

Length of tour: 100 km
(62 miles).
Stops: Toplice Hotel, A
Mihanovića 2, Krapinske T,
(049) 202 202; Hotel Minerva,
Trg slobode 1, Varaždinske T,
(042) 630 534.
n Stubičke T, V Šipeka 24,
(049) 282 727; Krapinske T,
Zagrebačka 4, (049) 232 106;
Terme Tuhelj, Gajeva 4, (049)
203 000; Sutinske T, (049)
466 627; Varaždinske T,
(042) 633 133.
Varaždin Decorated interior of the church of St Mary of the Snows, Belec
Ludbreg t Belec y Varaždinske
Map D1. * 500. @ from Zabok. Toplice

n Regional: D G Krambergera 1, Map D1. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb
Krapina, (049) 233 653. and Novi Marof. @ from Zagreb.
Novi Marof n Trg slobode 16, (042) 633 133.
Among the hills of Zagorje is ∑ toplice-vz.hr
the village of Belec, much loved
by art historians, because on its The waters that gush from a
outskirts is the small Church of sulphurous spring at the foot of
St George (Sv. Jurja), one of the the hill south of Varaždin were
few Romanesque buildings known to the Jasi, an Illyrian
preserved in inland Croatia. The tribe, in the 3rd century BC.
bell tower takes up nearly all The town was known as Aquae
of the façade (it resembles a Jasae by the Romans, and the
defensive tower rather than a spa rapidly developed, as shown
campanile). On the right is a by the numerous archaeological
small portico with two thin finds discovered here. The baths
columns. This leads to the were used until the area was
interior, where there is an ornate invaded by the Goths. Later, a
Gothic altar and interesting landslide buried the baths in
frescoes dating from the year mud and for centuries they
of its construction. were forgotten.
Lower down the hillside is the In the 12th century, under
Church of St Mary of the Snows the rule of the bishop of
(Sv. Marija Snježna), constructed Zagreb, a village was founded
by the Keglević family in 1674. with the name of Toplissa and
This church is considered a the inhabitants began to use
6 Varaždinske Toplice masterpiece of Croatian the hot water from the spring
The spa resort in Varaždinske Baroque, because of its once more. During the
Toplice is one of the oldest in sumptuously decorated and construction of the present-
Croatia. The first baths were set up ornamented interior. The day resort, the Roman town
by the Romans at the end of the monk and artist Ivan Ranger was rediscovered.
18th century and are still in use. (see p210) painted some of his Varaždinske Toplice also
The first public spa was opened trompe-l’œil masterpieces here, boasts a medieval district which
to the public in 1820. The thermal includes a castle, part of which
including Scenes from the Old
waters are used to treat rheumatic
Testament and Episodes of the houses a History Museum.
and orthopaedic conditions.
Virgin Mary’s Life. The church Inside a small fortress is the
also has a magnificent main parish church with an organ
altar, surrounded by cherubs from 1766 and two carved altars
0 km 5 and saints. made by Francesco Robba.
0 miles 5 In a nearby park is Seoska
R Church of St Mary Kuća, a 19th-century rural
of the Snows house with furniture and
Tel (049) 460 040. Open by appt. objects from the same era.
A significant event for the city

was the establishment in 1685 of
a Franciscan Monastery and the
church of St Anthony of Padua.
The monastery was a source of
culture and learning for the
whole region and it has resumed
this role in recent times.
Nearby is the Civic Museum
(Gradski muzej) with archae-
ological, historical and cultural
collections, and the Koprivnica
Gallery with a collection of Naive
works linked to the Hlebine
School (see p25). Next door, in a
Sanctuary dedicated to the Trinity, Ludbreg former old brewery, is the beer
hall Kraluš (see p249), much loved
u Ludbreg i Koprivnica by the locals.
Map D1. * 3,800. £ from Zagreb Map D1. * 25,000. £ Kolodvorska
E Civic Museum
via Koprivnica or Varaždin. @ from 31, (060) 305 040. @ Zagrebačka
Trg Leandera Brozovića 1. Tel (048)
Zagreb. n Trg sv. Trojstva 14, ulica, (048) 621 282. n Local: Trg
622 307. Open 8am–3pm, 6–9pm
(042) 810 690. _ Celebration of bana Jelačića 7, (048) 621 433;
Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm Sat.
Miraculous Blood (1st Sun in Sep). Regional: Nemčićeva 5, (048) 624
∑ visitludbreg.hr 408. _ Podravski motivi, Naive E Koprivnica Gallery
art exhibition (first week of Jul); Zrinski trg 9/1. Tel (048) 622 564.
Many traces from the Roman Renaissance Festival (last weekend in Open 8am–3pm & 6–9pm Tue–Fri,
era, such as walls and baths, Aug). ∑ koprivnicatourism.com 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. &
have been found in this area.
In researching these finds, Koprivnica (originally known as Environs
some historians have identified Kukaproncza), was founded by Hlebine, 13 km (8 miles) east
Ludbreg as being the Roman the powerful Ernust family, and of Koprivnica, owes its fame to
site of Jovia. was a key trading centre for the the peasant painters fostered
The town later became one Podravina area as well as a royal by the artist Krsto Hegedušić. In
of the first bishop’s sees in city from 1356. It was burned the 1930s this group founded
inland Croatia. In 1411, during down by the Turks in the 16th the so-called Hlebine School
a mass, a priest saw the wine century, destroying one of (see p25) of Naive art: the core
in the chalice turn to blood Croatia’s first free towns. of a trend in painting which
and the town chapel where Slowly rebuilt in the 17th represented the landscape and
this miracle took place became century, the town took on a people of this region in a
a destination for pilgrims. In Baroque appearance with a wide simple and original way. Their
1513 Pope Leo X declared avenue flanked by the main work is exhibited in both the
Ludbreg the only Sanctuary buildings. At one end stands Hlebine Gallery and the
of the Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo) the 19th-century County Hall Koprivnica Gallery.
in Croatia. of Koprivnica and Križevci. There
The church, originally Gothic, are many Serbian immigrants E Hlebine Gallery
was altered in 1829, and now here, hence the Orthodox Church Trg Ivana Generalića 15.
features a Baroque altar and of the Holy Spirit (Sveti Duh), Tel (048) 836 075. Open 10am–4pm
frescoes by M Rački (1937). The dating from the late 18th century. Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. &
portico is typical of churches of
pilgrimage and dates from 1779.
In 1739, Parliament voted to
build a large chapel dedicated
to the Precious Blood of Christ
here, in order to preserve the
miraculous chalice in an
appropriate place. The chapel
was not finally consecrated
until 1994.
A manor house in Baroque
and Classical style, built by
the Battahyany family in 1745,
today houses workshops
belonging to the Croatian
Restoration Institute. A work of Naive art of the Hlebine School in the Koprivnica Gallery
The town was later fortified

but after Turkish rule, only the
towers’ foundations and pieces
of the wall remained. The town
prospered with the arrival of
the railway in 1871.
The oldest building is the
medieval Church of the Holy
Cross (Sv. Križ), but only the
side doorway dates from
this period. The church was
restructured in the Baroque
style in the second half of the
18th century. The altar of the
The medieval castle in Ðurdevac, today housing a gallery Holy Cross was sculpted by
Francesco Robba in 1756 for
o Đurđevac Trinity and the barracks. The the cathedral in Zagreb.
town’s Civic Museum (Gradski The Greek Catholic Church
Map E1. * 6,500. £ Kolodvorska 21,
(048) 813 089. @ (048) 812 002. muzej) has an extensive and of the Holy Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo)
n Stjepana Radića 1, (048) 812 046. varied collection. has an iconostasis, frescoes
_ Đurđevo, City Day (23 Apr); by Celestin Medović and Ivan
Legend of the Picoki, culture and E Civic Museum Tišov from the early 19th
folklore show (last week of Jun). Trg Eugena Kvaternika 1. century, and a magnificent
∑ visitdjurdjevac.hr Tel (043) 244 207. Open 10am–7pm main altar. It was restored
Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. during the 19th century
Although the town’s name according to the drawings
derives from an ancient religious of the architect Herman Bollé.
building dedicated to St George The attached monastery
(Sv. Jurai), the town is now known became the Bishop’s Palace
for the Castle (Stari grad), whose (Biskupski dvor). It houses
ancient name is mentioned as paintings, icons, manuscripts
Wasserburg, meaning castle on and holy objects. The Civic
the water. In the Middle Ages Museum (Gradski muzej) has
the structure was much larger interesting archaeological
(excavations reveal a rectangular and art collections.
plan with a drawbridge and
tower). All that remains now is a E Church of the Holy Cross
roughly octagonal building with Ivana Dijankovečkog 1.
an internal courtyard. A gallery Tel (048) 711 711. Open by appt.
occupies the upper floor. P Bishop’s Palace
p Bjelovar E Civic Museum

Sermageova 2. Tel (048) 711 210.
The iconostasis in the Church of the Holy Open 10am–1pm Mon–Fri or
Map D1. * 28,000. £ Masarykova
ulica, (043) 241 263. @ Masarykova Trinity, Križevci by appt. & 8
ulica, (043) 241 269. n Local: Trg
Eugena Kvaternika 2, (043) 243 944; a Križevci
Regional: Dr. Ante Starčevića 8, (043) Map D1. * 12,000. £ (048) 716 193.
221 928. _ Terezijana, cultural display n Trg J.J. Strossmayera 5, (048) 681
(Jun). ∑ turizam-bilogorabjelovar. 199. _ Križevačko veliko spravišče,
com.hr cultural and gastronomic event
(mid-Jun). ∑ tz-krizevci.hr
In the Middle Ages this was
a fort called Wellowar. It References to this town are
acquired greater status in found in acts from the early 12th
1756, when Maria Theresa of century. In 1252 it was declared
Austria built a fort here. It a royal free town, and at various
became a military town, and times it was chosen as the
was built on an octagonal meeting place for the Croatian
layout, centred around two parliament. During a meeting in
intersecting roads. These are 1397 certain nobles considered
now home to the Cathedral traitors to King Sigismund were
of St Theresa, schools, the massacred. Of these, one was the Altar by Francesco Robba in the church of
Orthodox church of the Holy Prince palatine, Stjepan Lacković. the Holy Cross, Križevci
Travellers’
needs
Where to Stay 222–231

Where to Eat and Drink 232–249
Shopping in Croatia 250–253
Entertainment in Croatia 254–257
Outdoor Activities 258–261
222  TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Croatia is one of the boom destinations of backpacker hostels is also on the rise,
European tourism and accommodation and there are plenty of well-equipped,
facilities are going through a dynamic idyllically situated campsites along the
period of expansion and improvement. coast. Numerous tour operators and travel
This means that there is a great deal of agencies offer package holidays to different
choice available to visitors. There are plenty resorts in Croatia, but it is not difficult to
of modern hotels, apartments and holiday make your own travel arrangements.
villages, especially along the coast. Rooms Accommodation is best booked in advance,
and apartments rented privately by their and planning ahead is a good idea if you
owners represent a particularly inexpensive are intending to visit in the peak summer
option. The number of B&Bs and boutique months of June, July and August.
Prices
All accommodation prices
in Croatia are seasonal, with
the cheapest rates occurring
in winter and the most
expensive coinciding with
the high summer season –
which used to mean July
and August, but which is
now spreading to June and
September as well.
During the high season
accommodation in Croatia
can be just as expensive as
(if not more than) anywhere
“Birdcage” balcony, Lešić-Dimitri Palace hotel, Korčula (see p229) else in the Mediterranean –
especially in fashionable
Hotels of larger luxury hotels, including destinations such as Dubrovnik,
Tourism first boomed in Croatia several belonging to well-known Hvar and Split. Bargains might
in the 1970s and 1980s and international hotel chains. There be found in the shoulder
most of the hotels, particularly are also a growing number of seasons of April, May and
those in the resorts along the boutique and design hotels in October; and winter is in
coast, date from this period. fashionable destinations such general a more inexpensive
Facilities are generally up to as Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar. time to travel – although
modern standards although The facilities and services be aware that many hotels
decor and furnishings can offered by these hotels are of situated on the coast close
seem rather anonymous. Recent a very high standard, which is their doors for at least a few
years have seen many hotels reflected in the prices. months out of season.
renovated and upgraded,
providing a growing stock of
4- and 5-star accommodation.
Grand hotels erected in the
late 19th and early 20th century
can be found in Zagreb, the
capital, and in Opatija, in the
Kvarner gulf. Opatija became
a popular seaside resort at the
time of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire, when the Habsburg
aristocracy were regular visitors,
and it still has several hotels
dating from this time. They offer
a somewhat faded elegance
not found in the more modern
multistorey buildings along
the coast. Both Zagreb and
Dubrovnik also have a number Fresh* Sheets Kathedral Dubrovnik, overlooking a pretty square in Dubrovnik (see p228)
W H E R E TO S TAY  223
represent an inexpensive
alternative to hotel
accommodation for those
travelling as a family or as a
group. Apartments usually
have a well-equipped kitchen
for those who want to self-
cater and there is usually a local
market or food shop nearby.
Private rooms and apartments
are frequently rented out
privately by their owners via
international booking sites like
Booking or Airbnb. They can
also be booked through the
various tourist agencies which
can be found in all the tourist
resorts. A tourist tax and commis-
Hotel Lone in Rovinj, Istria, a five-star option outside the major cities (see p227) sion are charged and in summer
landlords may require stays of a
Hotel Grading hotel restaurant food tends minimum of four nights.
Croatia has adopted the often to be based on rather Landladies and landlords
standard star system for standardized “international” often congregate at ferry
categorizing hotels common cooking, and may be lacking terminals and bus stations to
in other European countries, in local character. offer rooms to arriving tourists.
which ranges from one star, While this is a reasonably safe
awarded to the simplest sort way to secure a room, it is
of accommodation, to five Private Rooms essential to check the location
stars for a luxury hotel. and Apartments and price before committing
The five-star category A good-value alternative to yourself in any way.
indicates hotels offering a staying in a hotel while in Croatia Otherwise you can seek out
high standard and a wide is to look for accommodation in accommodation yourself in the
range of services and facilities, privately rented rooms (privatne areas you would like to stay in
usually including spa and sobe) or apartments (apartmani). by looking out for signs reading
fitness facilities, a swimming Private rooms are usually sobe (Croatian for ‘rooms’),
pool and at least one gourmet doubles (single travellers may be Zimmer in German or camere
restaurant. There are not expected to pay the full double in Italian, hanging outside the
very many five-star hotels in price), and come in all shapes door. It is a good idea to begin
Croatia, and most of them are and sizes – the most expensive looking fairly early in the day.
in Dubrovnik and Zagreb. ones will have en-suite If you find somewhere you like,
Four-star hotels offer facilities bathrooms, but many will not. you can ask to be shown the
and services similar to those in Apartments come in all sizes room and, if you are happy
the five-star category, but the too, from 2-person studios to with what you see, you can
furnishings are less luxurious 6-person family flats, and arrange the terms and the
and more standardized and
there are fewer facilities.
Most of the hotels in Croatia
fall within the three-star
category, which indicates
hotels offering a good standard
of comfort. Two-star hotels are
generally cheaper and more
spartan in their furnishings
and offer fewer services.
It is common practice in
resort areas for hotels to offer
half-board (polupansion), with
the price including bed and
breakfast as well as another
meal (usually an evening meal).
Prices for half-board can be
very reasonable; often not
much more than you would
pay for just the room. However, Karmen’s self-contained apartments within a historic residence, Dubrovnik (see p228)
Bookings
The prevalence of Internet
booking sites means that it
is nowadays fairly easy to
organize hotel reservations
in Croatia yourself. However
places fill up quickly from June
through to September, so you
are advised to book well in
advance in order to be sure
of getting the accommodation
you want.
The Croatian National
Tourist Board (see p267)
can supply information on
The iconic Esplanade Zagreb Hotel (see p231) accommodation ahead of your
trip. Once you are in Croatia,
price of your stay. It may even All camp sites are open in the local tourist offices (there is one
be possible to negotiate the summer months of June, July, in every town) will either help
price, especially out of season. August and until the middle of you find a room or direct you to
Private rooms rarely come with September. However, it is best an accommodation agency that
breakfast, although you can to check with the campground can sort out your needs.
always ask if it is available – an directly if you are planning on
increasing number of renters going during May or late
are beginning to provide it. September, as the opening peri- Disabled Travellers
ods can vary from year to year. Care for the disabled in Croatia
Some of the loveliest camp is good, for the grim reason
B&Bs and Pensions sites, situated as they are in that the numbers of disabled
The concept of the bed-and- hidden-away spots, are those people has risen here as a result
breakfast is relatively new in marked “FKK” (see p266), which of the 1991–95 war. However,
Croatia but there are an are for naturists only. despite renewed sympathy and
increasing number of them Camping outside designated consideration, it is taking time
in Zagreb, on the coast, and in areas is prohibited in Croatia, to improve disabled access to
national park areas where rural so do not be tempted to stop buildings such as hotels and
tourism is on the increase. overnight in the woods or restaurants. Many hotels can
Usually these offer simply forests, on the beaches or in be unsuitable for persons with
furnished rooms in family any areas not specifically restricted mobility.
houses, although some B&Bs reserved for campers. As a general rule, hotels
are swish affairs, almost on the of four stars or above will
level of boutique hotels. have facilities for the disabled;
Pensions (pansion) are small Hostels cheaper places will probably
family-run hotels that offer There are a growing number of not. For further information,
breakfast, and possibly half- backpacker hostels in Croatia, contact Hrvatski Savez
or full board as well. most of which offer cheap, Udruga Tjelesnih Invalida,
simple dorm accommodation the Association of Disabled
in fun, informal surroundings. Organizations of Croatia
Camp Sites A bed in a hostels can be booked (see p267) or RADAR in the UK.
There are plenty of camp sites via the hostel’s own website or
in Croatia, ranging from small, on specialist websites such as
family-run sites with a few Hostelworld. Many hostels Lighthouses
pitches under the olive trees to offer double rooms, triples and A delightful and unusual
large camps with facilities such quads as well as dorms, and accommodation option in
as sports grounds, restaurants these are increasingly popular Croatia is a stay in one of
and shops. Many Croatian camp with couples and families who the lighthouses which stand
sites are located in woods by enjoy the social aspects of on isolated points along the
the sea, so you can keep cool backpacker culture but who coast. Lighthouses, which
under shady trees on summer want their own room. Some usually contain one or two
days. While there is a wide choice hostels have invested a lot of apartments, are often situated
of sites on the Adriatic coast money in contemporary design on uninhabited islets, and
and islands, there are far fewer and comforts, and are similar in will suit those who require
camp sites inland. Kamping style to small boutique hotels. solitude, unspoilt nature
Udruženje Hrvatske (the Breakfast is available at some, and unimpeded sea views.
Croatian Camping Union) has but not all, Croatian hostels – Several agencies deal with
useful directories on its website. check when booking. lighthouse accommodation;
they will supply you with Recommended Hotels

boat transfer and provisions The hotels listed on the
for the duration of your stay. following pages have been
For more information and chosen for a wide range of
bookings, contact Lighthouses reasons and criteria. All are
of Croatia or Atlas. representative of their context,
Of the more famous light- be that bustling Split, fairy-tale
houses, Savudrija is 9 km Dubrovnik, the beach resorts of
(5 miles) from Umag, and is the Adriatic coast or the quaint
the oldest lighthouse in the ports of the Dalmatian islands.
Adriatic, built in an ideal spot Each has earned a reputation
for windsurfers. for hospitality and charm.
Sveti Ivan na pučini is The listings cover all kinds of
situated on an island which accommodation, from simple
is part of the archipelago off farmhouses to spawling resorts,
Rovinj, which is 3.5 km (2 miles) View from the Hotel Mozart, Opatija, chosen family B&Bs to contemporary
away. It is ideal for those who for its historic ambience (see p227) design hotels and luxurious
love fishing or diving. palaces. A warm welcome earns
The Porer lighthouse, on The lighthouse of Sušac was plenty of points, as do little
the island of the same name, built in 1878 on the island of the extras like coffee- and tea-
is 20 km (12 miles) from Pula. same name, 40 km (25 miles) making facilities, and allowing
It offers truly spectacular views from Hvar. It stands 100 m guests use of the kitchen.
and is in a particularly isolated (328 ft) above sea level and The DK Choice label means
position. Tajer, situated 28 km offers a wonderful view of the the hotel is in some way
(17 miles) south of Zadar, was open sea. It is possible to outstanding. It may be in
built in 1876. It comprises a scuba dive near the rocks at beautiful surroundings, offer a
stone building and an iron the southern end of the island. spectacular outlook, occupy
tower and offers panoramic The lighthouse of Palagruža a landmark building, provide
views of Kornati Islands. Veli is situated 68 km (42 miles) outstanding service, radiate
Rat stands among pine trees from Split, between the Italian romance or be particularly
on the northwestern and Croatian coasts, while on charming, have a great spa, or a
promontory on the island of the island of Lastovo, 80 km noteworthy sustainable outlook.
Dugi Otok, 35 km (22 miles) (50 miles) from Split, is the Whatever the reason, it is a
from Zadar, while at the entrance Struga lighthouse, dating from guarantee of an especially
to the port of Makarska, near 1839. This is a great location for memorable stay.
one of the most beautiful those who love fishing.
beaches in the Adriatic, stands The Sveti Andrija lighthouse DIRECTORY
the Sveti Petar lighthouse. stands on the island of the same
Pločica is situated on the name and is 10 km (6 miles) Internet Booking Sites
island of the same name, from Dubrovnik. Finally, there
which lies between the islands is Prišnjak lighthouse on the Airbnb
of Hvar and Korčula and the island of Murter, surrounded ∑ airbnb.com
Pelješac peninsula. by a thick pine wood.
Booking
∑ booking.com
Hostelworld
∑ hostelworld.com
Camping Websites
Kamping Udruženje
Hrvatske (Croatian
Camping Union)
∑ camping.hr
Lighthouses
Atlas
∑ atlas.hr
Lighthouses of Croatia
∑ lighthouses-croatia.com
Modern and minimalist, but set in a Roman palace: the Vestibul Palace, Split (see p230)
Where to Stay
seen at this delightful hotel on Price Guide
Istria and the the harbourfront. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Kvarner Area Iinclusive of service charges and taxes.
BUZET: Hotel Vela Vrata  DK Choice  up to 800 kuna
Boutique Road Map B2 LOŠINJ:  800–1300 kuna
 over 1300 kuna
Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7 Vitality Hotel Punta 
Tel (052) 494 750 Spa Road Map B3
∑ velavrata.net Šestavine 17, Veli Lošinj LOVRAN: Bristol 
This lovely hotel at the gates of Tel (051) 662 000 Historic Road Map B2
Buzet’s hilltop Old Town has ∑ losinj-hotels.com Šetalište maršala Tita 27
snug rooms and modern fittings. Built on rocks overlooking the Tel (051) 710 444
Closed Jan & Feb. sea, and backed by fragrant ∑ remisens.com
pines, this is a well-equipped Bristol is attractive late 19th-
BUZET: Kotli  and soothing resort hotel. century wedding-cake of a
Historic Road Map B2 The fishing harbour of Veli building on the promenade
Kotli Lošinj lies 5 minutes’ walk in and has high-ceilinged rooms.
Tel (098) 228 432 one direction; the resort town
∑ istra-kotli.com of Mali Lošinj is 20 minutes MOTOVUN: Hotel Kaštel 
This street of stone houses in the away in the other. Punta’s other Boutique Road Map A2
village of Kotli, a protected cultural main attribute is the on-site Trg Andrea Antico 7
heritage complex 13 km (8 miles) spa centre, which offers a pool, Tel (052) 681 607
from Buzet, have been converted massage facilities and a variety ∑ hotel-kastel-motovun.hr
into atmospheric family-sized of beauty treatments and Offering a warren of cosy rooms,
apartments with good facilities. exercise programmes. this restored 17th-century town
house is set in the heart of a
CRES: Kimen  beautiful hill-town.
Resort Road Map B3 LOŠINJ:
Melin 1/16 Wellness Hotel Aurora  OPATIJA:
Tel (051) 573 305 Resort Road Map B3 Palace-Bellevue 
∑ hotel-kimen.com Sunčana uvala 4, Mali Lošinj Historic Road Map B2
A large but welcoming hotel, Tel (051) 667 200 Maršala Tita 144
Kimen has lots of facilities and live ∑ losinj-hotels.com Tel (051) 710 444
music nightly. Closed Nov–Mar. This large, well-organized beach- ∑ remisens.com
front hotel has a range of This hotel’s two impressive
CRIKVENICA: Hotel Kaštel  facilities and beauty treatments. 19th-century buildings stand
Resort Road Map B2 next to the main beach. The
Frankopanska 22 LOŠINJ: Bellevue  rooms are simple but the social
Tel (051) 241 044 Luxury Road Map B3 areas – all marble columns and
∑ jadran-crikvenica.hr Čikat 9, Mali Lošinj chandeliers – are wonderful.
Stay in simple rooms at this former Tel (051) 231 268
14th-century monastery, right by ∑ losinj-hotels.com OPATIJA: Galeb 
the river and close to the beach. Offering excellent standards of Historic Road Map B2
service , Bellevue is a superbly Maršala Tita 160
KRK: Valamar Koralj  equipped five-star hotel. Located Tel (051) 271 177
Resort Road Map B3 within close proximity to the ∑ hotel-galeb.hr
V. Tomašića bb beaches of Čikat Bay. A lovely little hotel in the centre
Tel (052) 465 120 of town, Galeb houses clean,
∑ valamar.com/hr/hoteli-krk good-sized rooms with sea views.
Comfortable rooms and plenty of Closed Nov–Apr.
on-site facilities are offered at this
large hotel, close to a beautiful bay. OPATIJA: Villa Ariston 
Boutique Road Map B2
KRK: Marina  Maršala Tita 179
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 271 379
Obala hrvatske mornarice 8 ∑ villa-ariston.hr
Tel (051) 221 128 Grand in architecture and cosy in
∑ hotelmarina.hr atmosphere, this seaside villa is a
Set on the pretty harbourfront, relaxing upscale choice.
this charming, well-run hotel has
a café-restaurant terrace that’s OPATIJA:
perfect for people-watching. Hotel Milenij 
Luxury Road Map B2
LOŠINJ: Apoksiomen  Maršala Tita 109
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 278 007
Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1 ∑ milenijhoteli.com
Tel (051) 520 820 Set in impressive sea-front
∑ apoksiomen.com buildings, this hotel has a lovely
An understated sense of style Large and modern, with plenty of facilities: ground-floor café and offers
and attention to detail can be Wellness Hotel Aurora, Lošinj spa facilities.
RIJEKA: Neboder 
Historic Road Map B3
J.J. Strossmayera 1
Tel (051) 373 538
∑ jadran-hoteli.hr
Built in the 1930s, this slender
grey slab is a modernist classic.
Rooms are masterpieces of
minimalist design.
RIJEKA: Grand Hotel Bonavia 

Luxury Road Map B3
Dolac 4
Tel (051) 357 100
Harbour views, Hotel Marina, Krk ∑ bonavia.hr
Offering top-notch service, the
OPATIJA: Hotel Mozart  PULA: usual facilities and an excellent
Luxury Road Map B2 Hotel Park Plaza Histria  restaurant, this upmarket,
Maršala Tita 138 Resort Road Map A3 business-oriented hotel is set
Tel (051) 718 260 Verudela 17 right in the centre of town.
∑ hotel-mozart.hr Tel (052) 590 000
Beautifully restored, this 19th- ∑ arenaturist.com RIJEKA: Jadran 
century building features replica This large and well-equipped Luxury Road Map B3
period furnishings. resort hotel is surrounded by Šetalište XIII divizije 46
charming pebble beaches. Tel (051) 216 600
PLITVICE: Plitvice  ∑ jadran-hoteli.hr
Resort Road Map C3 PULA: Hotel Valsabbion  This elegant modernist building
Plitvička jezera Boutique Road Map A3 is right on the sea. Many of the
Tel (053) 751 200 Pješčana uvala IX/26 large refurbished rooms come
∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr Tel (052) 218 033 with expansive sea views.
This smart and comfortable hotel ∑ valsabbion.hr
is set in the Plitvice National Park, A smart, characterful, family-run ROVINJ: Hotel Adriatic 
and has a range of on-site facilities. hotel, Valsabbion has tasteful Historic Road Map A3
rooms and an intimate spa Obala Pina Budicina 16
POREČ: Laguna Parentium  centre on site. Tel (052) 800 250
Resort Road Map A2 ∑ maistra.com/adriatic_rovinj
Zelena Laguna RAB: Grand Hotel Imperial  Occupying a 19th-century
Tel (052) 411 500 Historic Road Map B3 building right by the harbour,
∑ lagunaporec.com Palit bb this is Rovinj’s oldest hotel
Situated on its own peninsula Tel (051) 667 788 and still makes for a charming,
amid shady pines, this large ∑ imperialrab.com town-centre pied-à-terre.
hotel, oriented towards adults, Originally built by the Habsburgs,
has a wealth of spa, sport and this is a lovely but not too gaudy ROVINJ: Park 
relaxation options. hotel, surrounded by greenery. Resort Road Map A3
I.M. Ronjgova 11
POREČ: RAB: Padova  Tel (052) 800 250
Valamar Club Tamaris  Resort Road Map B3 ∑ maistra.com/park_rovinj
Resort Road Map A2 Banjol bb A short walk from the Old Town,
Lanterna 6 Tel (051) 667 788 this hotel is situated above the
Tel (052) 401 000 ∑ imperialrab.com seaside promenade and offers
∑ valamar.com A large, modern hotel beside Rab’s wellness and spa services, as well
A self-contained complex, marina, Padova offers a wide range as indoor and outdoor pools.
10 km (6 miles) out of Poreč, with of facilities and excellent views of
some lovely pebble beaches. the Old Town across the bay.
DK Choice
PULA: Hotel Riviera  RABAC: Albona  ROVINJ: Hotel Lone 
Historic Road Map A3 Resort Road Map B3 Luxury Road Map A3
Splitska 1 Rabac bb Luje Adamovića 31
Tel (052) 211 166 Tel (052) 465 120 Tel (052) 800 250
∑ arenaturist.com ∑ valamar.com ∑ lonehotel.com
A glorious 19th-century building This is Rabac’s most versatile A design hotel that lives up to its
that has been little altered inside resort hotel, with plenty of child- billing, this uber-contemporary
– the high-ceilinged rooms are ren’s facilities and views out to sea. hotel lies above Lone Bay. Every
simple and inexpensive. detail of the interior is the work
RABAC: Villa Annette  of Croatian designers and
PULA: Hotel Scaletta  Boutique Road Map B3 artists, from the abstract
Boutique Road Map A3 Raška 24 sculptures and wall hangings
Flavijevska 26 Tel (052) 884 222 right down to the staff
Tel (052) 541 599 ∑ villa-annette.com uniforms. The rooms are well
∑ hotel-scaletta.com A modernist villa set on a hillside appointed and the social areas,
This tastefully decorated family-run overlooking the shore, this friendly grouped around a spiral
hotel is located just up the road place is an appealing alternative stairway, are a joy to use.
from Pula’s famous amphitheatre. to the huge resort hotels.
For more information on types of hotels see pp222–5
ROVINJ: Monte Mulini  is hard to beat for charm, setting DUBROVNIK:
Luxury Road Map A3 and value. Closed Nov–Mar. The Pucić Palace 
A. Smareglia 3 Luxury Road Map F6
Tel (052) 800 250 DUBROVNIK: Adriatic  Od Puča 1
∑ montemulinihotel.com Resort Road Map F6 Tel (020) 326 222
This smart, well-appointed and Masarykov put 9 ∑ thepucicpalace.com
perfectly situated five-star over- Tel (020) 433 609 Set in a 17th-century palace
looks the beaches of Lone Bay. A good-value hotel, Adriatic is overlooking the Old Town’s
situated just above Lapad Bay, market, this is Adriatic luxury
UMAG: with its pebble beach, 4 km and atmosphere at its best.
Kempinski Hotel Adriatic  (2 miles) from the Old Town.
Luxury Road Map A2 DUBROVNIK: Stari Grad 
Alberi 300A, Savudrija DUBROVNIK: Karmen  Boutique Road Map F6
Tel (052) 707 000 B&B Road Map F6 Od Sigurate 4
∑ kempinski.com Bandureva 1 Tel (020) 322 244
Right beside the Slovene border, Tel (020) 323 433 ∑ hotelstarigrad.com
this chic hotel comes with ∑ karmendu.com This intimate (8-room) designer
superb facilities, and there is Housed in one of the Old Town’s hotel is ideally situated in the Old
an 18-hole golf course nearby. most atmospheric corners, Town; stunning views from its
Karmen has comfortable rooftop restaurant. Closed mid-
VRSAR: Petalon  apartments that are attractively Nov–Feb.
Resort Road Map A3 furnished with antiques.
Petalon 5 DUGI OTOK: Hotel Lavanda 
Tel (052) 800 250 Resort Road Map C4
∑ maistra.com/petalon_vrsar DK Choice Božava bb
A self-contained hotel situated on DUBROVNIK: Fresh* Sheets Tel (023) 291 291
a peninsula with pebble beaches, Kathedral Dubrovnik  ∑ hoteli-bozava.hr
Petalon has an impressive range B&B Road Map F6 This complex overlooking the sea,
of sport and recreational facilities. Bunićeva poljana 6 has excellent sports facilities and
Tel (091) 896 7509 lots of surrounding greenery.
∑ freshsheetsbedandbreakfast.
com HVAR: Adriatiq Resort Fontana 
Dalmatia Occupying a unique position Resort Road Map D5
behind the cathedral, in a Vitarnja bb, Jelsa
BRAČ: historic church-owned building, Tel (021) 761 810
Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa  Fresh* Sheets offers a mixture of ∑ resortfontana-adriatiq.com
Resort Road Map D5 double rooms, family suites and On a hillside, this complex is
Put Zlatnog rata 46, Bol apartments, equipped with minutes away from pebbly
Tel (021) 306 200 modern fittings and allowing beaches and the town of Jelsa.
∑ hotelelaphusabrac.com plenty of natural light. Breakfast
Facilities here include sporting can be enjoyed in the square HVAR: Palace 
activities and beauty treatments. below. The experience of Historic Road Map D5
Set in a pine wood, not far from waking up in the middle of Trg svetog Stjepana 5
the beaches and the town. Dubrovnik before the tour groups Tel (021) 741 966
have arrived is wonderful. ∑ suncanihvar.com
BRAČ: Villa Adriatica  The oldest hotel in Hvar, Palace has
Boutique Road Map D5 modernized rooms set behind
Put Vele Luke 31, Supetar DUBROVNIK: Excelsior  the town’s colonnaded loggia.
Tel (021) 755 010 Luxury Road Map F6
∑ villaadriatica.com Frana Supila 12 HVAR: Amfora 
A chic family-run alternative to Tel (020) 300 300 Resort Road Map D5
the big resort hotels, Adriatica has ∑ www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com Jurja Dubokovića 5
a pool and hot tub. Located in a This top-of-the-market historic Tel (021) 750 300
quiet neighbourhood minutes hotel is perched on a cliff near ∑ suncanihvar.com
from the seafront. Closed Oct–Apr. Old Town, with a private beach A large resort hotel along the bay
and magnificent views. from Hvar town, Amfora boasts
BRAČ: Bluesun Hotel Borak 
Resort Road Map D5
Put Zlatnog rata 42, Bol
Tel (021) 306 202
∑ brachotelborak.com
One of the better, large resort
hotels on Brač, it is set among
cypresses near Bol’s famous
beaches and windsurfing bases.
CAVTAT: Hotel Supetar 

Historic Road Map F6
Obala A. Starčevića 27
Tel (020) 300 300
∑ adriaticluxuryhotels.com
In an old stone house right on
Cavtat’s lovely harbourfront, this Cool rooms and sea views, Monte Mulini, Rovinj
Key to Price Guide see p226
unfussy, good-value rooms and

some excellent facilities.
PAG: Pagus 

Resort Road Map C4
Ante Starčevića 1
Tel (023) 611 310
∑ hotel-pagus.hr
Stretching along a pebble beach,
this hotel has large rooms and
lovely sea views.
PRIMOŠTEN:
Adriatiq Hotel Zora 
Resort Road Map D5
Elegantly furnished room, Excelsior Hotel, Dubrovnik Raduča 11
Tel (022) 570 048
chic rooms, a pebble beach and MAKARSKA: Biokovo  ∑ hotelzora-adriatiq.com
all modern conveniences. Historic Road Map E5 Nestled in a thick blanket of
Obala kralja Tomislava 14 pines and cypresses, this resort-
HVAR: Hotel Podstine  Tel (021) 615 244 style complex offers plenty of
Boutique Road Map D5 ∑ holidaymakarska.com amenities and is good for families.
Put Podstina 11 Some rooms at this intimate
Tel (021) 740 400 hotel in the heart of Makarska ŠIBENIK: Solaris Lifestyle
∑ podstine.com overlook the lively harbourfront. Hotel Jure 
Perched above the sea some 1 km Resort Road Map D5
(half a mile) round the bay from MAKARSKA: Hotel Meteor  Solaris
the town, this contemporary hotel Resort Road Map E5 Tel (022) 361 001
has a charming boutique feel. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 19 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
Tel (021) 564 200 This beachside hotel in the
KORČULA: Bon Repos  ∑ hoteli-makarska.hr Solaris resort is set in park-like
Resort Road Map E6 This ziggurat-like classic of grounds. It has a spa and an
Dubrovačka cesta 19 Adriatic modernism is right on outdoor swimming-pool complex.
Tel (020) 726 880 the seafront promenade, with a
∑ korcula-hotels.com wealth of on-site faciities. ŠIBENIK: Solaris Beach
This large hotel is located in Hotel Jakov 
idyllic surroundings, some METKOVIĆ: Villa Neretva  Resort Road Map D5
distance from the Old Town but B&B Road Map E6 Solaris
on the sea. The rooms are simple Splitska 14, Krvavac Tel (022) 361 001
and have been refurbished. Tel (020) 672 200 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
∑ hotel-villa-neretva.com This family-oriented hotel in the
KORČULA: Set among the mandarin Solaris complex, 6 km (3 miles)
Korčula De La Ville  orchards of the Neretva delta, this from town, offers ample facilities
Historic Road Map E6 family-run pension offers cosy and beach access.
Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5 rooms above a famous restaurant.
Tel (020) 726 900 ŠOLTA: Martinis Marchi 
∑ korcula-hotels.com MLJET: Hotel Odisej  Luxury Road Map D5
This elegant pre-World War I Resort Road Map E6 Put svetog Nikole 51, Maslinica
hotel on the harbourfront has Pomena bb Tel (021) 572 768
comfortable rooms. The ground- Tel 020 300 300 ∑ martinis-marchi.com
floor café has one of the best ∑ adriaticluxuryhotels.com Enjoy pampered luxury in this
terraces on the Adriatic. Ideal for exploring the lakes and restored castle, with spacious
forests of Mljet National Park, this suites grouped that are around
modern hotel has a beach and a courtyard swimming pool.
DK Choice good sports facilities too.
KORČULA:
Lešić-Dimitri Palace  OREBIĆ: Aminess Grand DK Choice
Boutique Road Map E6 Azur Hotel  SPLIT: Goli&Bosi 
Don Pavla Poše 1–6 Resort Road Map E6 Hostel Road Map D5
Tel (021) 715 560 Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 107 Morpurgova poljana 2
∑ lesic-dimitri.com Tel (052) 858 600 Tel (021) 510 999
A handful of luxury apartments, ∑ aminess.com ∑ gollybossy.com
occup this row of carefully Set on a woodland beach, this is A converted department store is
restored houses, in one of a large hotel with a wide range of home to this design hostel, char-
central Korčula’s atmospheric, activities and sporting facilities. acterized by its yellow, white and
stepped alleyways. Each black colour scheme. Dorm beds
apartment has a fully equipped OREBIĆ: Hotel Bellevue  take the form of semi-private
kitchen and contemporary Resort Road Map E6 cubicles; en-suite doubles and
bathroom facilities. Breakfast is Obala pomoraca 36 top-floor family rooms are also
served on the seafront a short Tel (020) 713 193 on offer. The hostel’s café-
distance away. The friendly staff ∑ orebic-hotels.hr restaurant spreads out into the
attend to every detail. A stone’s throw from a broad neighbouring piazza in summer.
pebble beach, Bellevue offers
DK Choice
ZADAR: Iadera 
Spa Road Map C4
Punta Skala, Petrčane
Tel (023) 555 601
∑ falkensteiner.com
Located 10 km (6 miles) north of
Zadar just outside the unspoiled
seaside village of Petrčane, this
luxury spa hotel offers the full
range of state-of-the-art facilities,
with indoor pools, numerous
therapeutic programmes and
plenty of beauty treatments. The
A modern temple to wellbeing: Hotel Iadera, on the coast just outside Zadar hotel grounds include a pine
forest and grassy lawns. A pebbly
SPLIT: Hotel Peristil  VIS: Dionis  beach is a short walk away.
Boutique Road Map D5 B&B Road Map D6
Poljana kraljice Jelene 5 Matije Gubca 1
Tel (021) 329 070 Tel (021) 711 963
∑ hotelperistil.com ∑ dionis.hr
Peristil has a wonderful location This family-run B&B, above a Zagreb
in the heart of Split’s Diocletian’s pizzeria, has snug rooms, many of
Palace. Some rooms have them with sloping attic ceilings. ZAGREB: Hostel Shappy 
ancient stonework. Hostel Road Map D2
VIS: Issa  Varšavska 8
SPLIT: Radisson Blu Resort Resort Road Map D6 Tel (01) 483 04 83
Split  Šetalište Apolonija Zanelle 5 ∑ hostel-shappy.com
Resort Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 164 In the centre of town, Shappy
Put Trstenika 19 ∑ hotelsvis.com is a smart and soothing hostel
Tel (021) 303 030 Overlooking pebbly beaches on with dorms, double rooms
∑ radissonblu.com/resort-split the fringes of Vis town, the Issa and quads.
This resort is 3 km (2 miles) east has a wealth of sporting facilities.
of the centre and has a pebble ZAGREB: Studio Kairos 
beach and well-appointed rooms. VIS: Hotel San Giorgio  B&B Road Map D2
Boutique Road Map D6 Vlaška 92
SPLIT: Vestibul Palace  Petra Hektorovića 2 Tel (01) 464 06 80
Boutique Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 362 ∑ studio-kairos.com
Iza Vestibula 4 ∑ hotelsangiorgiovis.com A cosy B&B with small, artistically
Tel (021) 329 329 An old stone house in a narrow furnished rooms, each themed
∑ vestibulpalace.com alley, San Giorgio features cosy around Zagreb’s history.
This spectacular hotel combines modern rooms and a walled
modern design with Roman stone- orchard garden. Closed Nov–Mar. ZAGREB: Hotel Palace 
work, in Diocletian’s former palace. Historic Road Map D2
VIS: Hotel Tamaris  Trg J.J. Strossmayera 10
STON: Hotel Ostrea  Historic Road Map D6 Tel (01) 489 96 00
B&B Road Map E6 Obala sv. Jurja 20 ∑ palace.hr
Mali Ston Tel (021) 711 164 This elegant pre-World War I
Tel (020) 754 555 ∑ hotelsvis.com townhouse features retro furnish-
∑ ostrea.hr This 19th-century villa is set right ings and Art Deco design touches.
Afamily-run hotel on the harbour, on the harbour. High-ceilinged
Ostrea has large rooms, great rooms and a lively first-floor café. ZAGREB: Sheraton Zagreb 
service and a fabulous restaurant. Luxury Road Map D2
ZADAR: Boutique Hostel Kneza Borne 2
TROGIR: Hotel Concordia  Forum  Tel (01) 455 35 35
B&B Road Map D5 Hostel Road Map C4 ∑ hotel-sheratonzagreb.com
Obala bana Berislavića 22 Široka 20 A 10 minutes’ walk from the
Tel (021) 885 400 Tel (023) 250 705 main square, this international
∑ concordia-hotel.net ∑ hostelforumzadar.com chain hotel has the standards
This impressive 18th-century Offering designer interiors and of comfort and service you
town house offers snug rooms several private double rooms, this would expect.
and attentive service. is one of the new super-hostels.
ZAGREB: The Westin
TROGIR: Villa Sikaa  ZADAR: Club Funimation Zagreb 
B&B Road Map D5 Borik  Luxury Road Map D2
Obala kralja Zvonimira 13 Resort Road Map C4 Izidora Kršnjavog 1
Tel (021) 881 223 Majstora Radovana 7 Tel (01) 489 20 00
∑ vila-sikaa-r.com Tel (023) 555 600 ∑ westinzagreb.com
Set on the waterfront opposite ∑ falkensteiner.com This plush, well-equipped five-
the Old Town, this small hotel This family-oriented hotel just west star, in a superb location, towers
has spacious rooms and friendly, of the town has sports facilities, above an open plaza in the
helpful staff. crèches and a pebble beach. Lower Town.
SAMOBOR: Hotel Livadić  OSIJEK: Hotel Waldinger 

DK Choice Historic Road Map C2 Historic Road Map F2
ZAGREB: Esplanade Trg kralja Tomislava 1 Županijska 8
Zagreb Hotel  Tel (01) 336 5850 Tel (031) 250 450
Historic Road Map D2 ∑ hotel-livadic.hr ∑ waldinger.hr
Mihanovićeva 1 This delightful hotel on a charming Burgundy-hued rooms with
Tel (01) 456 66 66 square features antique furnish- modern bathrooms are
∑ esplanade.hr ings and has a lovely café. housed in a 19th-century city-
Opened in 1925 as a haven for centre building.
passengers on the Orient Express,
the prestigious and uber-stylish ŠPIŠIĆ BUKOVICA:
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel is an Slavonia and Baranja Hotel Mozart 
architectural gem. Within easy B&B Road Map E2
reach of attractions such as the Kinkovo bb
cathedral and the Art Pavilion, Tel (033) 801 000
the city’s most iconic hotel com- DK Choice ∑ hotelmozart.hr
bines Art Deco glamour with BILJE: Crvendać  This country-house hotel in the
every contemporary amenity. B&B Road Map F2 the countryside offers luxury in
Biljske satnije 5 idyllic, unspoilt surroundings.
Tel (031) 750 264, 091 551 5711
∑ crvendac.com VUKOVAR: Hotel Lav 
This welcoming, family-run Luxury Road Map G2
Central Croatia B&B is set in the tranquil J.J. Strossmayera 18
Baranja village, just north of Tel (032) 445 100
ČIGOĆ: Tradicije Čigoć  Osijek. Set in a well-tended ∑ hotel-lav.hr
B&B Road Map D2 garden, Crvendać (Robin This smart, modern hotel offers
Čigoć 7a Redbreast) features a charming four-star rooms, exceptional
Tel (044) 715 124 red-white colour scheme that service and a riverside location.
∑ tradicije-cigoc.hr runs throughout the rooms
This traditional wooden house in and communal areas. The
the heart of Lonjsko Polje Nature owner rents out bikes, perfect
Park, has cosy rustic rooms with for exploring the Kopački Rit The Northern
mod cons. Nature Park nearby. Counties
KARLOVAC: Hotel Korana KRAPINSKE TOPLICE:
Srakovčić  DARUVAR: Balise  Villa Magdalena 
Luxury Map C2 B&B Road Map E2 Spa Road Map D1
Perivoosipa Vrbanića 8 Trg kralja Tomislava 22 Mirna ulica 1
Tel (047) 609 090 Tel (043) 440 220 Tel (049) 233 333
∑ hotelkorana.hr ∑ hotel-balise.hr ∑ villa-magdalena.net
A grand villa, the Korana offers Balise is a small, centrally located The Jacuzzis in every room and
style, sophistication and plenty hotel with simply furnished but the spa in this award-winning,
of sports facilities. comfy air-conditioned rooms. intimate wellness hotel are fed
by thermal waters.
KRAPJE: Ekoetno Selo Strug  ILOK: Villa Iva 
B&B Road Map D2 B&B Road Map G2 TRAKOŠĆAN: Trakošćan 
Plesmo 26 Stjepana Radića 23 Resort Road Map D1
Tel (044) 611 215 Tel (032) 591 011 Trakošćan bb
∑ ekoetno-selo-strug.hr ∑ villa-iva-ilok.com Tel (042) 440 800
These modern bungalows The Villa Iva has neat, bright rooms ∑ hotel-trakoscan.hr
are decked out in traditional grouped around a lovely arcaded Located right next to Trakošćan
country style. courtyard, in the centre of this Castle and its lake, this modern
small wine-producing town. hotel comes with plenty of
sports facilities.
OSIJEK: Vienna Apartments 
B&B Road Map F2 TUHELJSKE TOPLICE:
Radićeva 26a Hotel Well 
Tel (031) 214 026 Spa Road Map C1
∑ vienna-smjestaj.com Ljudevita Gaja 4
Small but cosy, fully equipped Tel (049) 203 750
rooms are offered in a quiet ∑ terme-tuhelj.hr
courtyard, off a lively café- Plush rooms and modern
lined street. architecture are on offer at this
welcoming hotel.
OSIJEK: Hotel Osijek 
Luxury Road Map F2 VARAŽDIN: Pansion Garestin 
Šamačka 4 B&B Road Map D1
Tel (031) 230 333 Zagrebačka 34
∑ hotelosijek.hr Tel (042) 214 314
This large modern hotel towers ∑ gastrocom-ugostiteljstvo.com
above the Drava waterfront. It Discover simple but well-equipped
Hotel Vestibul Palace, Split, set in an features smart, spacious rooms rooms above a restaurant, 10 min-
imperial Roman residence and spa facilities. utes’ away from the town centre.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Food in Croatia is very varied, from the fresh flavoured, goulash-style dishes predominate.
fish and seafood found along the coast to the Pasta dishes and pizza (with a thin base, in
Central European staples such as veal, pork the Italian style) feature virtually everywhere.
and poultry offered in inland Croatia. Proximity Wherever you eat, fresh produce and locally
to the Balkans ensures that grilled meats and sourced ingredients are the rule. Croatian
savoury pastries are always to be found too. specialities include sheep’s milk cheese (paški
Croatia’s coastal areas offer an extraordinarily sir) from Pag, home-cured ham (pršut), and
rich and healthy Mediterranean cuisine, with truffles from Istria. Prices are generally lower
fish, octopus and squid joining lamb, fresh than elsewhere in western Europe, making
vegetables and olive oil. In the east, paprika- eating out in Croatia even more appealing.
and so you should be able to

predict roughly how much you
will be spending. The choice of
fish and seafood on offer will vary
daily depending on the catch.
Wine is often drunk with
restaurant meals in Croatia
(for an overview of Croatia’s
wines, see pp236–7), but it is
very common for restaurants
to serve a drink called bevanda,
a mixture of wine and water,
or gemišt, a mix of sparkling
mineral water and wine. The
Modern dining in a glass pavilion at Bevanda, Opatija local wine and water will be
brought to the table separately
Taverns and Restaurants Asian restaurants (especially for you to mix.
The Croatian word restoran is sushi outlets), and the number Many Croatian cafés (kafić or
used almost in exactly the same, of stylish contemporary bistros kavana) don’t serve food at all,
broad way as we use restaurant. offering international food is although an increasing number
It is used to refer to any place also on the rise. are beginning to offer quality
where you can eat that offers Most of the gostionica and cakes and sandwiches. Ice-
a perhaps more upmarket, konoba fall within the mid-price cream and pastry shops, called
more formal dining experience range and some offer very good slastičarnica, are great places to
compared to a straightforward value for money. The average enjoy something sweet.
bar or café. This can range cost of a meal is from around 150
from expensive fine dining at to 220 kuna (between about £16
a hotel restoran to low-key, and £24). This sum would include Pizzerias
family-run establishments a starter, a main course (always Pizzas are always a good choice
offering traditional menus. served with a vegetable) and a for the visitor travelling on a
Equally, prices may range from dessert. Prices vary according to budget. Croatian pizzas are very
the very expensive to more the standard of the place and its good and can compete with
budget-friendly options. location. A gostionica or konoba the best Italian tradition.
Less formal places to try out along the coast will almost
are the numerous gostionica or certainly be more expensive
konoba (both are similar to a than those inland. Sometimes
trattoria or taverna). These are there is an extra charge for
often family-run businesses bread, but the service charge
and they are good places to try is usually included in the price
good, traditional, local food. The of each individual dish.
usual dishes found in a konoba Along the coast, fresh fish is
include risotto (rižoto or rižot, plentiful though not inexpensive.
depending on the region), lignje On menus, the prices of fish and
(squid rings), grah or fažol (bean seafood are generally given by
soup) and basic grills such as the kilo. A useful rule of thumb is
ražnjići (pork kebabs) and čevapi that a good-sized portion of fish
(minced meat rissoles in a bun). or seafood will usually weigh Giaxa, set in a superb Renaissance mansion
There are a growing number of about 300 grams (10 ounces) in Hvar town, Hvar island (see p242)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  233
or less any time of the day,

especially in tourist resorts.
However, meal times for locals
are broadly as in other
Mediterranean countries. Lunch
is generally served from about
noon to 2pm and dinner from
around 8pm to 10pm.
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed in this
guidebook have been chosen
based on a wide range of
criteria. All are representative of
The clue is in the name at 360° in Dubrovnik, with its wraparound views (see p241) their setting, be that city streets,
the Dalmatian islands or the
Pizzerias usually have a range of However, restaurants, pizzerias inland plains of eastern Croatia.
pasta dishes and salads too. The and cafés serving Italianstyle Each stands out and has earned
prices are always reasonable and food will provide options such a noteworthy reputation.
are on average 30–40 per cent as pizzas with vegetable Listings cover a vast variety of
lower than similar meals in toppings and pasta dishes. eateries, from simple, familyrun
many other parts of Europe. Otherwise several side orders of taverns, cafés and pastry shops
vegetables are usually an option to stylish bistros and formal
and omelettes (omlet) may be whitetablecloth restaurants.
Picnics and Self-Catering available in some places. The Particular attention is devoted
Picnic food can easily be bought choice increases in autumn with to regional specialities (see
from food shops, supermarkets the fresh mushroom season, pp234–5), from the fresh fish
or from one of the typical open especially in the Istria region. and seafood of the Adriatic to
air markets where you can find a the spicy paprikaflavoured fare
great variety of salami, cheeses, of Slavonia. Also featured is
bread and olives, as well as fresh Paying BosnianHerzegovinian cuisine,
fruit and drinks. You will find that most Croatian which is heavily influenced by
Retail food prices are very restaurants now accept credit Turkish and Oriental fare.
reasonable and shopkeepers cards, although it is still possible The DK Choice label means
usually try to be helpful. Ready to come across a few where the the restaurant is outstanding
made sandwiches are becoming bill has to be paid in cash. and heartily recommended.
more popular in Croatia, though However, credit cards are often It may serve standout dishes
some places still make them to not accepted in cafés or in rural with local specialities, offer
order. You will also find simple establishments, so make sure that excellent value, be located in
readymade snacks such as you carry enough cash with you. beautiful surrounds or a historic
burek. This is a type of savoury building, or have a particularly
pastry, filled with meat (meso), romantic or charming
cheese (sir), spinach (špinat) or Opening Hours atmosphere. Whatever the
potato (krumpir) and baked in Places serving food and drinks reason, it is an indication that
an oven. Bakeries selling burek have very flexible opening hours, you should have an especially
and other pastries can be found and it is possible to eat at more memorable meal.
on every Croatian high street.
Groups staying in selfcatering
apartments should also have no
problem stocking up. Many hotel
complexes with apartments
also have minisupermarkets.
Vegetarian Food
More and more restaurants
now offer vegetarian dishes and
there are a few that specialize in
vegetarian food. Be aware that
some dishes that appear meat
free, like manistra (vegetable
soup), may contain meat stock. Deliciously fresh fish and seafood is served at Proto, Dubrovnik
The Flavours of Croatia

Croatia can be broadly divided into four main culinary regions: Istrian cuisine
is proud of its Italian heritage and features elegant pasta, gnocchi and truffle
dishes; Dalmatian cuisine is seafood-based and has Venetian echoes;
the fertile farmlands of Slavonia have a more Hungarian influence of
peppers and spice; while central Croatia retains Austrian predilections
– schnitzel, desserts and cakes. However, there are some consistent
characteristics – bread is key and is always freshly made either at
home or in the local bakery (pekara); fish is important all over the
country given the length of the coastline and the many lakes
and rivers; and grilling is the preferred cooking method. Wild aparagus
and shellfish). Many restaurant Dalmatia

kitchens roast food in a peka – The Adriatic supplies Croatia
a lidded pot buried in hot with much of its fish. Gilthead
ashes – to retain all the flavour bream, red mullet, sole and
and juices. Look out for srnetina, John Dory are common, as
venison stew with gnocchi, or are clams, mussels, oysters,
roasted, meadow-fed lamb. octopus, squid, prawns and
Other delights are the soft even crab and lobster. The
Istrian smoked ham (pršut) channels created by hundreds
and don’t miss the best oysters of islands are perfect for
and mussels in Croatia, farmed cultivating excellent quality
in the clean waters of the shellfish. Produce is prepared
Sardines and other seafood on sale at Limski Channel. with olive oil, garlic and herbs,
Split’s busy fish market
Istria
With a noticeably Italianate
cuisine, food is taken more
seriously in Istria than
anywhere else outside of
Zagreb. Here the truffle, tartufi,
is venerated. Although freshest
in autumn, truffles are used
dried all-year-round in risottos
and pasta dishes such as
mare monti (a “surf and turf”
combination of mushrooms A selection of tasty dishes at a restaurant in Istria
Croatian Dishes and Specialities

Many of Croatia’s religious and folk
holiday festivals are traditionally
associated with a particular dish.
Bakalar (salt cod), for example,
is eaten on Christmas Eve and
Good Friday, kulen (spiced
salami) is a Harvest Thanksgiving
Pršut – smoked ham
dish and guska (goose) served with
chestnuts is a St Martin’s Day treat.The Turkish occupation, over
200 years ago, has left behind a legacy of grilled meats and
kebabs, sarma (cabbage leaf stuffed with rice and mince), burek
(filo pastry tube filled with meat or curd cheese), and baklava
(pastries filled with nuts and drenched in sweet syrup). Coastal Maneštra A filling soup made
specialities include brudet (fish stew with polenta), crni rižot of smoked meat, beans, pasta
(cuttlefish ink risotto) and lignje (squid), served lightly fried in and vegetables – an Istrian
breadcrumbs or na žaru (grilled whole). version of minestrone.
Slavonia & Baranja

The Austro-Hungarian Empire
has also affected Slavonian
cooking but with a Hungarian
flavour. Large portions of
warming dishes insulate the
mainly rural population from a
cold, wet and often snowy
climate. Expect meat or fish in
rich sauces, spiced with paprika.
The Drava river provides a good
supply of freshwater fish like
pike and carp. Do try a few
slices of Slavonia’s famous
Fresh-baked bread and pastries for sale at a Croatian bakery (pekara) appetizer, kulen. This smoke-
cured salami, flavoured with
cooked quickly – fried, grilled or and game. As well as being chilli and paprika, is often
boiled – and served simply. Easy grilled, meat is often cooked in served with peppers, tomatoes,
Italian cooking reigns here – a rich stew or spit-roasted turšija (pickled vegetables) and
risottos, pizza and pasta feature (pečenje) – goose, duck, lamb, sometimes curd cheese.
on menus as a result of history, wild boar and venison are
proximity and the sheer favourites. But perhaps the most ON THE MENU
number of Italian visitors. Try obvious Viennese influence is on
Dalmatian pršut, firmer than the the rich desserts – pancakes, Fiš paprikaš: Fiery fish stew
Istrian version, or janjetina – strudels and rib-sticking štrukli. from Slavonia often made with
carp and spiced with paprika.
lamb fed on lush island grass
and herbs; it’s great spit-roasted. Zagrebački odrezak: Veal, ham
and cheese fried in breadcrumbs
– a super-schnitzel.
Central & Northern Ajvar: A savoury red pepper
Croatia sauce/relish – everyone has their
Inland the food is much richer own secret recipe.
– olive oil is replaced by butter, Čevapčići: A Turkish legacy –
lard or dripping. Menus are spicy meat rissoles served with
meat-driven with hearty, filling raw onion, flatbread and ajvar.
side dishes such as dumplings Blitva s krumpirom: Popular
and noodles – legacies from side dish of chard boiled with
Austrian rule. Zagreb has a potatoes, olive oil and garlic.
sophisticated gastronomy but
Palačinke: One of Croatia’s top
outside of the capital, rustic
desserts: jam-filled pancakes,
flavours and styles abound and Croatian cheese shop, with a variety of hard, with chocolate and walnuts.
there is a greater use of veal soft and goat’s cheeses
Škampi na buzaru Scampi is Pašticada A beef joint and Štrukli This northern Croatian
gently simmered in wine, seasonal vegetables are slowly dish of parcels of curd cheese,
tomatoes, garlic and herbs; pot-roasted in wine – prunes boiled and then baked, can be
finished with breadcrumbs. are also sometimes used. either sweet or savoury.
What to Drink in Croatia

A wide variety of locally made drinks is available throughout
Croatia, from beers and wines to fiery fruit brandies. Croatian
beer is usually of the lager type but dark beers can also be
found. Foreign brands such as Stella Artois, Tuborg, Beck’s and
Carlsberg are brewed in Croatia under licence, and there
are Irish pubs selling Guinness and other Irish beers. Croatia’s
vineyards yield all kinds of red and white wines, most of
which are rarely seen outside the country. Spirits based
on grapes are popular as aperitifs rather than as after-dinner
drinks, as are other fruit brandies made from plums or pears.
Brandies flavoured with herbs, walnuts or even honey are
also popular. Tap water is safe to drink but if the taste does
not appeal there is a wide range of bottled mineral waters,
both sparkling and still. Typical sign for a pub, pivnica in Croatian
Spirits
A wide variety of spirits
is available in Croatia,
demonstrating the
nation’s fondness for
strong alcoholic drinks,
in particular fruit-based
eaux-de-vie. One of the
most popular spirits is a
plum brandy originating
in Slavonia called
Šljivovica. It is found all Pelinkovac Zrinski
over the country. Loza is liqueur brandy
Traditional utensils for the preparation of strong Turkish coffee a grape-based eau-de-
vie with a high alcohol content, and
Coffee and Tea Travarica is a herb-based spirit. Vinjak
Coffee (kava) is drunk throughout Croatia. All over is a brandy, Pelinkovac is a herb
the country it is served very strong and black, in liqueur, and Maraskino, a liqueur
little cups, like an espresso coffee. If it is too strong from Zadar, is flavoured with
you can add a little milk or order a cappuccino maraschino cherries.
(freshly ground coffee with frothy hot milk). Many spirits are drunk as aperitifs.
Strong Turkish coffee is also available in some A spirit called Bermet is produced in
places. Herbal teas (čaj) are sold everywhere. Samobor, near Zagreb, and is made
Indian teas can also be found, usually served according to an ancient, well-
with lemon, but you can ask for milk. guarded recipe. It is drunk as an
aperitif, served with ice and a Šljivovica
slice of lemon. eau-de-vie
Beer
Another very popular drink sold in cafés and pubs
is beer (pivo), which is always served very cold.
Most bottled beers are of the
lager type, but some darker
beers can be found. The most
well-known brands of lager
beer are Ožujsko, made in
Zagreb, and Karlovačko
(Karlovac). Another
common brand is Pan. Well-
known international beers
such as Stella Artois are also
widely available (some
brewed under licence in
Karlovačko Ožujsko Croatia), but tend to be Some bottles of eau-de-vie with fruit, made at home all over
beer beer more expensive. the country
Mineral Water, Soft Drinks and Wines

Fruit Juices Croatia is a land of vineyards, with vines growing
All bars and cafés in Croatia will offer on the slopes of rolling hills inland and in
a wide range of fruit juices, pockets of stony soil on the coast and
as well as the usual islands. Production varies in quantity
internationally known and quality but standards are improving
brands of soft drinks and there are some very decent wines
and fizzy drinks like around. From the Kvarner area come
cola. Tap water the white wine Žlahtina (from Vrbnik
is safe to drink on Krk), red Cabernet (from Poreč)
everywhere in Croatia and Teran (from Buzet), a light red.
and bottled mineral Dalmatia is known for
waters (mineralna Pošip and Grk from
voda) are also widely Orange juice Korčula (both white
available. The most wines), Dingač
common brands of mineral water Zlahtina (one of the best
in Croatia are Studena, Jamnica Croatian reds)
Mineral and Jana, but there are also many and Postup from the
water imported brands available as well. Pelješac peninsula. Plavac
Ask for gazirana (carbonated) voda (red) comes from Brač
for sparkling water, or negazirana for still. and Malmsey from
Dubrovnik. Finally, from
Slavonia come Kutjevačka
Graševina, Kutjevo
Chardonnay and Riesling, Dingač Postup
and Krauthaker Graševina.
Where to Drink
There are various types of establishments which
serve drinks and it is useful to know a few of the
basic categories. A kavana or kafić is equivalent
to a café, and serves both alcoholic and non-
alcoholic drinks, while a pivnica serves mainly
beer. Irish pubs can also be found, selling
Guinness and other Irish beers. Wine is generally
Poolside dining area and bar at the promenade in Hvar drunk in a konoba in coastal towns. In the larger
towns you can have a snack with your drink in one
Drinking Customs in Croatia of the bife, the Croatian equivalent of a snack bar.
Pubs, bars and cafés are not only places to However, there are not really rigid distinctions
stop at various times of the day for refreshment, between the types of drinks served in one or
but also places to meet friends and socialize. other of these places. Cafés open early and close
For visitors this can also be a good way of meeting late – usually around 11pm or later in the summer.
and getting to know local people. Drinks of various kinds (though rarely alcoholic)
One tradition found in Croatia is that of are also served in pastry shops – slastičarnica. The
mixing wine with other drinks such as mineral close links that Croatia’s gastronomic tradition has
water or even cola. A bevanda is red or white with Austria, and in particular with Vienna, has
wine with plain water, while gemišt is white wine influenced the production of delicious cakes and
mixed with sparkling mineral water. One of the pastries as well as excellent sladoled (ice cream).
most popular summer drinks is red wine and Pastry shops close earlier than cafés in general.
fizzy cola, a drink called bambus.
Croatians like a drink or two, as is demonstrated
by the custom in the Slavonian region of wine
drinking with friends. This traditional ritual
should only be undertaken by people with a
very strong head for alcohol. It begins with the
first phase, which is before any wine is consumed,
known as the Dočekuša. This is then followed
by the Razgovoruša, during which you chat
while sipping at least seven glasses of wine.
The final phase is called the Putnička, reserved
for the leave-taking, when yet more glasses are
emptied before people say their final farewells.
Snack bar with outdoor tables in Fažana, a coastal resort
Where to Eat and Drink

KRK: Konoba Šime  Price Guide
Istria and the Seafood Road Map B3 Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, with a glass of house
Kvarner Area A. Mahnića 1
wine, any taxes and a 10–15% tip.
Tel (051) 220 042
BUZET: Toklarija  It is quite dark inside this trusty  up to 120 kuna
Fine Dining Road Map B2 harbourside restaurant, but it  120 to 300 kuna
 over 300 kuna
Sovinjsko polje 11 has a bright outdoor seating
Tel (091) 926 6769 Closed Tue area, serving fresh local seafood
An acclaimed restaurant in a tiny (breaded squid and black risotto LOVRAN: Draga di Lovrana 
village, the rustic Toklarija takes are among the favourites), as well Mediterranean Road Map B2
the best local ingredients, as Balkan-style grilled meats. Lovranska draga 1
including asparagus, truffles Tel (051) 294 166
and mushrooms in season, and LIMSKI CHANNEL: Viking  On a verdant mountainside
transforms them into haute Regional Road Map A3 overlooking the Kvarner Gulf,
cuisine. Slow cooking, superb Limski kanal 1, Sveti Lovreč Lovran specializes in bringing the
quality, high prices. Tel (052) 448 223 freshest produce – from forest or
Breathtakingly situated on the seaboard – direct to the table.
CRES: Gostionica Belona  shores of the Limski Channel
Seafood Road Map B3 marine reserve, Viking (named MOŠĆENIČKA DRAGA:
Šetalište 23 travnja 24 after a movie that was shot here) Johnson 
Tel (051) 571 203 Closed Dec–Feb serves locally raised mussels, Mediterranean Road Map B2
A rustic place popular with oysters and other shellfish, along- Majčevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga
locals and lively in the evenings, side superb fresh-caught fish. Tel (051) 737 578 Closed Apr–Jun;
Belona serves seafood staples, Sep & Oct: Tue; Nov–Mar: Mon–Wed
usually including excellent squid LOŠINJ: Marina  Family members are in charge of
alongside simple pasta and Seafood Road Map B3 the kitchen, service and daily
grilled-meat dishes. Obala maršala Tita 38, Veli Lošinj supplies of fresh fish which
Tel (051) 236 178 Closed Nov–Mar determine the menu for the day.
CRES: Riva  A superb location on Veli Lošinj’s
Seafood Road Map B3 main harbour and an emphasis MOTOVUN: Mondo 
Riva creskih kapetana 13 on freshly caught fish make this Regional Road Map A2
Tel (051) 571 107 Closed Nov–Mar one of the best places to sample Barbacan 1
Facing the town square on seafood on the island. Tel (052) 681 791
one side and the harbour on The excellent-value Mondo has
the other, Riva offers good, fresh LOŠINJ: Bora Bar  a romantic candlelit interior, an
fish – try sea bass, scampi or Mediterranean Road Map B3 evocative outdoor terrace, and a
seafood risotto. Rovenska 3, Veli Lošinj menu rich in local Istrian truffles.
Tel (051) 867 544 Closed Nov–Mar
HUM: Humska konoba  Run by a long-standing truffle MOTOVUN: Zigante 
Traditional Road Map B2 enthusiast, Bora Bar specializes in Regional Road Map A2
Hum 2, Roč dishes flavoured by the mighty Livade 7
Tel (052) 660 005 Closed weekdays, fungus, although there are plenty Tel (052) 664 302
Nov–Mar of other pasta and seafood dishes. Owned by a local truffle
This tiny village tavern has a Home-made lemon liqueur can harvesting firm, this restaurant
beautiful terrace and tasty be bought as a souvenir. naturally focuses on inland
inland-Istrian cuisine. Try local Istria’s favourite fungus. Truffle
sausages with sauerkraut, or pastas, truffle omelettes and
home-made pasta with truffles. truffle-covered steaks dominate
the menu.
KASTAV: Kukuriku 
Mediterranean Road Map B2 NOVIGRAD:
Trg Lokvina 3 Damir i Ornella 
Tel (051) 691 519 Seafood Road Map A2
Famous for presenting traditional Zidine 5
Croatian and Mediterranean Tel (052) 758 134 Closed Nov–Feb
food in contemporary haute- Something of a pilgrimage place
cuisine style, Kukuriku offers for seafood lovers, this small and
seasonally changing five-course intimate restaurant serves superb
menus, each accompanied by fish, including some sashimi-
appropriate wines. influenced raw fish dishes.
KRK: Konoba Nono  NOVIGRAD: Marina 

Traditional Road Map B3 Seafood Road Map A2
Krčkih iseljenika 8 Sv Antona 38
Tel (051) 222 221 Closed Nov–Mar Tel (052) 726 691
This traditional restaurant Situated beside the yachting
specializes in local seafood and marina, this dedicated seafood
Krk specialities. Try the šurlice, restaurant serves imaginative fish
tubes of pasta basted in goulash Cheerful outdoor terrace and tables at dishes accompanied by excellent
or seafood sauce. Bora Bar, Lošinj local wines.
NOVIGRAD: Pepenero 

Fine Dining Road Map A2
Porporela bb
Tel (052) 757 706
Adriatic seafood is the main theme
at this top-notch restaurant,
though most dishes are created
by blending varied culinary tradi-
tions; the seven-course tasting
menu puts Pepenero to the test.
OPATIJA: Istranka 
Traditional Road Map B2
Bože Milanovića 2
Tel (051) 271 835
This folksy restaurant with
checked tablecloths is just uphill
from the main street. It serves
filling soups, inexpensive seafood Waterside dining with expansive views, Bevanda restaurant, Opatija
and tasty local sausages.
POREČ: Nono  PULA: Vodnjanka 
OPATIJA: Tramerka  Pizzeria Road Map A2 Traditional Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Zagrebačka 4 D. Vitezića 4
Dr A. Mohorovičića 15 Tel (052) 453 088 Tel (052) 210 655 Closed Sun
Tel (051) 701 707 Nono serves some of the best A little way outside the centre
Occupying a narrow alley just and certainly the biggest pizzas of town but well worth the trip,
above Volosko harbour, Tramerka in Istria, alongside good steaks, the homely Vodnjanka serves
combines the cosy virtues of a grilled squid and other Adriatic home-made pasta, marinated
traditional tavern with the finest staples. It’s small and often full, fish dishes and roast meats, all
seafood, with the accent on but worth the wait. at very reasonable prices.
what’s in season and fresh.
POREČ: Konoba Ulixes  PULA: Batelina 
OPATIJA: Bevanda  Traditional Road Map A2 Seafood Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Decumanus 2 Čimulje 25
Zert 8 Tel (052) 451 132 Closed Nov–Apr Tel (052) 573 767
Tel (051) 493 888 Rustic and maritime objects Three kilometres (2 miles) south
A seafood restaurant offering high- decorate the interior of this of Pula, this family-run restaurant
quality cuisine and impeccable classy little restaurant, with is legendary for its superb,
standards of service, Bevanda reasonably priced seafood, pasta frequently creative cooking,
occupies a chic seafront pavilion and truffle dishes dominating always involving freshly caught
with a glass-enclosed terrace. the menu. fish and shellfish. Reservations
are essential.
OPATIJA: Le Mandrać  POREČ: Sveti Nikola 
Fine Dining Road Map B2 Seafood Road Map A2 PULA: Milan 
Obala Frana Supila 10 Obala maršala Tita 23 Seafood Road Map A3
Tel (051) 701 357 Tel (052) 423 018 Stoja 4
A sleek glass pavilion right on Experience refined dining right Tel (052) 300 200
Volosko harbour, Le Mandrać is on Poreč’s harbour-front, with An elegant location in which to
famous for matching Adriatic delicately prepared fish dishes enjoy the best local seafood,
staples with modern creative and superb risottos backed up Milan offers fresh fish either
kitchencraft. Look out for set by a well-chosen selection of grilled or baked, plus a dessert
lunches and multi-course Croatian wines. trolley brimming with temptation.
tasting menus.
PULA: Amfiteatar  PULA: Velanera 
Mediterranean Road Map A3 Mediterranean Road Map A3
DK Choice Amfiteatarska 6 Franje Mošnja 3b, Šišan
OPATIJA: Plavi podrum  Tel (052) 375 600 Tel (052) 300 621
Seafood Road Map B2 Set in the chic modern interior Located in Šišan, 7 km (4 miles)
Obala Frana Supila 12 of the Amfiteatar hotel, this from central Pula, this chic
Tel (051) 701 223 restaurant takes the best of hotel restaurant serves up
A refined restaurant on Volosko’s Mediterranean cuisine and Mediterranean and international
picturesque fishing harbour, presents it in both a creative cuisine with a splash of local
Plavi podrum has a Croatia- and affordable way. Istrian flavour.
wide reputation for its creative
fish dishes. It’s the perfect place PULA: Jupiter  RAB: Konoba Riva 
to sample Kvarner scampi, Pizzeria Road Map A3 Traditional Road Map B3
prepared here in a variety Castropola 42 Ulica biskupa Draga 3
of ways. The excellent cellar Tel (052) 214 333 Tel (051) 725 887
contains local and international A welcoming pizzeria in the Appealingly decked out in fishing
wines by the bottle or the glass; middle of town, with an paraphernalia, wooden beams
the owner is also a highly affordable range of big thin-crust and exposed stone, Riva is a great
regarded sommelier. pies, Jupiter also serves soups, place to enjoy quality Adriatic
salads and grilled-meat snacks. seafood at a reasonable price.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
RAB: Astoria 

Seafood Road Map B3
Trg Municipium Arba 7
Tel (051) 774 844 Closed mid-Oct–
Apr
A first-floor restaurant looking
out over the main square, Astoria
serves fresh fish and seafood
with style and panache, followed
by some terrific desserts.
RAB: Marco Polo 

Seafood Road Map B3
Banjol 486
Tel (051) 725 846
Located in the coastal suburb of
Banjol, Marco Polo offers Adriatic
seafood with an imaginative
twist, served in an elegant dining Softly lit interiors of Wine Vault, Rovinj
room or on a garden terrace.
ROVINJ: Giannino  ROVINJ: Monte 
RIJEKA: Bracera  Seafood Road Map A3 Mediterranean Road Map A3
Pizzeria Road Map B2 Augusta Ferrija 38 Montalbano 75
Kružna 12 Tel (052) 813 402 Closed Tue Tel (052) 830 203 Closed mid-Oct–
Tel (051) 213 782 Located in a typically atmospheric mid-Apr
A popular and enjoyable pizzeria alley, Giannino offers superb A high-class dining experience
just off the main Korzo, Bracera pasta and seafood in a dining with friendly, informal service,
features nautical decorations and room full of artworks or on a Monte offers sparkling fish and
a satisfying menu of inexpensive shaded terrace on the street. seafood alongside multi-course
pastas, salads, pizzas and risottos, tasting menus showcasing
and meats grilled over charcoal. ROVINJ: Kantinon  creative Mediterranean cuisine.
Traditional Road Map A3
RIJEKA: Konoba Tarsa  Obala Aldo Rismondo bb ROVINJ: Wine Vault 
Traditional Road Map B2 Tel (052) 816 075 French Road Map A3
Josipa Kulfaneka 10 A high-ceilinged harbourside A. Smareglia 3
Tel (051) 452 089 former wine cellar houses this Tel (052) 636 017
Up the hill from the centre in Istrian speciality tavern, serving Based in the Monte Mulini hotel,
Trsat, Tarsa offers a huge menu the best local meats and fish Wine Vault is renowned for its
of pasta and meat dishes, a wide with recipes taken from old quality, French-influenced cuisine
choice of Croatian wines, and an local cookbooks. and multi-course tasting menus
atmospherically rustic interior. intended to last several hours.
ROVINJ: La Puntulina 
RIJEKA: Kuća istarskog pršuta  Seafood Road Map A3 UMAG: Badi 
Bistro Road Map B2 Svetog Križa 38 Seafood Road Map A2
Riva Boduli 3a Tel (052) 813 186 Lovrečica
Tel (051) 211 129 Set in a cliff-hugging stone house Tel (052) 756 293 Closed Nov–Mar;
Right on the harbour, this decorated with arty objects, La Wed
informal bistro with a handful of Puntulina excels in imaginative This fine restaurant in the village
tables and bar stools offers soups, fish dishes, seafood pastas and of Lovrečica is very close to
cheeses, home-cured pršut (ham) risottos. The adjoining cocktail Umag. Great seafood and sublime
and local wines from the barrel. bar offers seating on the rocks. desserts, in a leafy green setting.
RIJEKA: Bistro La Rose  ROVINJ: Veli Jože 

French Road Map B2 Traditional Road Map A3
Andrije Medulića 8 Svetog Križa 1 Dalmatia
Tel (051) 315 504 Closed Sun Tel (052) 816 337
A welcoming restaurant decked Wooden benches and a jumble BRAČ: Bistro Palute 
out like a 19th-century living of quasi-antiques characterize Traditional Road Map D5
room, La Rose offers French- this enjoyable restaurant offering Porat 4, Supetar
influenced soups, quiches and seafood, pastas and roast meats. Tel (021) 631 730
stews, alongside Adriatic Often crowded, but it’s well Sit right on Supetar’s harbour to
seafood standards. worth the wait. enjoy Palute’s superbly fresh fish
alongside inexpensive dishes
RIJEKA: Kamov  ROVINJ: L  such as pasta and grilled meats.
European Road Map B2 Fine Dining Road Map A3
Dolac 4 Luje Adamovića 31 BRAČ: Taverna Riva 
Tel (051) 357 980 Tel (052) 632 000 Regional Road Map D5
The restaurant of the Bonavia Housed in the futuristic Hotel Frane Radića 5, Bol
hotel provides chic modern Lone, L fuses Adriatic ingredients Tel (021) 635 236
decor, old-school service, and with global herbs and spices to Baked lamb, veal, octopus and
a menu of Croatian meat and create a light, healthy, exotic Brač vitalac (sheep innards) are
seafood classics given a creative, cuisine that looks as well- among the specialities at this
contemporary European twist. designed as the building itself. tavern on the Bol seafront.
BRAČ: Konoba Mlin  DUBROVNIK: Dalmatino  DUBROVNIK: Orhan 

Regional Road Map D5 Seafood Road Map F6 Seafood Road Map F6
Ante Starčevića 11, Bol Miha Pracata 6 Od Tabakarije 1
Tel (021) 635 376 Closed Nov–Mar Tel (020) 323 070 Closed Jan & Feb Tel (020) 411 918
Situated in an old mill in a An evocatively decorated Old On a rocky section of coast
beautiful part of Bol, this Town restaurant, Dalmatino serves beneath Lovrijenac fortress,
restaurant serves traditional exquisite fish and superb desserts, Orhan is a romantic location off
Dalmatian seafood and meat alongside selected regional wines. the beaten tourist track in which
dishes on a terrace with lovely to enjoy grilled fish and steaks
sea views. DUBROVNIK: Glorijet  accompanied by quality
Seafood Road Map F6 Dalmatian wines.
BRAČ: Ribarska kućica  Obala Stjepana Radića 16
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 419 788 Closed Sun DUBROVNIK: Taj Mahal 
Ante Starčevića bb, Bol This comfortable restaurant next Bosnian-Herzegovinian
Tel (021) 635 033 to the fish market in Gruž is the Road Map F6
The bare stone interior and ideal place to try marinated Nikole Gučetića 2
shore-side terrrace of the anchovies, grilled squid, seafood Tel (020) 323 221
“Fishermen’s Hut” provide an risottos and other Adriatic treats. Don’t be fooled by the name: this
ideal venue to enjoy fish soups, is a place for delicious Bosnian-
shellfish, scampi, lobster and DUBROVNIK: Kopun  style grilled meats, stews and
other Adriatic treats. Regional Road Map F6 freshly baked pastries filled with
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7 minced meats, tender spinach
CAVTAT: Kolona  Tel (020) 323 969 Closed Dec & Jan or salty white cheese.
Seafood Road Map F6 Roast capon and traditional
Put Tihe 2 Dubrovnik dishes are the DUBROVNIK: 360° 
Tel (020) 478 787 Closed Nov–Mar specialities at this restaurant, with European Road Map F6
A cosy and traditional restaurant shaded seating on a lovely piazza Svetog Dominika 1
with a leafy terrace, Kolona offers beside the Jesuit church. Tel (020) 322 222 Closed Jan–Mar
traditional seafood specialities European cuisine, a huge wine
and genuinely friendly service. DUBROVNIK: Lady Pi Pi  list and extravagant cocktails
The owner is a fisherman, so Grill Road Map F6 are on offer at this romantically
freshness is guaranteed. Peline bb situated restaurant, which
Closed Nov–Mar occupies a section of the Old
CAVTAT: Galija  Nestling beneath the town walls, Town fortifications.
Seafood Road Map F6 the Lady serves up delicious cuts
Vulićevićeva 1 of fish and meat, grilled expertly DUBROVNIK: Bota Oyster
Tel (020) 478 566 and served in a walled-garden and Sushi Bar 
Baked fish with potatoes is terrace. No reservations; be Regional/Japanese Road Map F6
just one of the specialities prepared to wait. Od Pustijerne bb
at Cavtat’s leading seafood Tel (020) 324 034
restaurant, with outdoor seating DUBROVNIK: Fresh on-the-shells from the
overlooking the seafront. Lokanda Peskarija  nearby oyster beds at Ston
Seafood Road Map F6 and imaginative sushi fashioned
DUBROVNIK: Gradska kavana  Na ponti bb from local ingredients are
Café Road Map F6 Tel (020) 324 750 served here in evocative Old
Pred dvorom 1 With outdoor seating spread Town surroundings.
Tel (020) 321 202 along the Old Port quayside, this
The principal meeting point for is a reliable choice for grilled
coffee-sipping locals, the “town squid, seafood risotto and other
café” offers an appetizing selection Adriatic staples.
of traditional desserts, including
torta od makarule, a famously rich
pasta-and-walnut cake. DK Choice
DUBROVNIK: Nishta 
DUBROVNIK: Komarda  Vegetarian Road Map F6
Grill Road Map F6 Prijeko bb
Frana Supila bb Tel (020) 322 088 Closed Sun
Tel (020) 311 393 Nishta kicked off something of
Hidden down steps just outside a gastro-revolution in fish- and
the eastern entrance to the meat-obsessed Dalmatia by
Old Town, Komarda cooks meat opening this strictly vegetarian
and fish on an open grill, with restaurant right in the heart of
tables set out on a shore terrace. Dubrovnik’s Old Town. The menu
combines Thai, Indian, Mexican
DUBROVNIK: Tabasco  and Mediterranean influences
Italian Road Map F6 to produce a satisfying and
Hvarska 48a varied cuisine (suitable for vegans
Tel (020) 429 595 and gluten-free diners too) that
Immediately below Dubrovnik’s frequently surprises with its
cable-car station, Tabasco offers creativity and flavour. Only
thin-crust pizzas from a wood- a few tables, so booking ahead
fired oven, served on a shady is advisable. Atmospheric dining on a section of the old
secluded terrace. city walls at 360° on Dubrovnik
HVAR: Pizzeria Kogo  under-floor aquarium, family-run

DK Choice Pizzeria Road Map D5 Gariful serves local seafood with
DUBROVNIK: Trg svetog Stjepana 34, Hvar town real finesse – although prices are
Fish Restaurant Proto  Tel (021) 742 136 on the special-treat side.
Seafood Road Map F6 Kogo is a main-square pizzeria
Široka 1 that serves up reliable and HVAR: Giaxa 
Tel (020) 323 234 Closed Nov– well-priced thin-crust pies Mediterranean Road Map D5
Mar throughout the year, alongside Petra Hektorovića 11, Hvar town
Traditional Dalmatian fish and inexpensive Dalmatian snacks Tel (021) 741 073 Closed Nov–
seafood dishes are served with and daily specials. mid-Apr
care and imagination at this Although the ingredients are
elegant restaurant just off HVAR: Turan  sourced locally, the accent at
the Old Town’s main street. Regional Road Map D5 Giaxa is on inventive European
Affordable daily specials are Jelsa cuisine. The restaurant’s setting,
offered at lunchtime, and there Tel (021) 761 441 in a restored Renaissance
is an excellent list of fine regional Sample a handsome choice of mansion, is outstanding.
wines. Outdoor seating on the perfectly executed local dishes
first-floor terrace makes Fish including stewed octopus, grilled
Restaurant Proto one of the most fish and succulent fresh squid, DK Choice
evocative dining spots in town. fuelled by first-rate house wine. HVAR: Macondo 
Seafood Road Map D5
HVAR: Eremitaž  Groda bb, Hvar town
DUBROVNIK: Levanat  Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (021) 742 850
Seafood Road Map F6 Obala hrvastskih branitelja 2, Stari This fine restaurant just uphill
Nika i Meda Pucića 15 Grad from the main square has long
Tel (020) 435 352 Tel (091) 542 83 95 been regarded as one of the
Fresh fish is either grilled, baked Located in what was once a best places on the island for
or served with imaginative convent, this family-run restaurant excellent seafood served in an
sauces at this beautifully situated serves up a wide range of informal and friendly ambience.
restaurant on the coastal path excellent fish specialities. The spaghetti with lobster or
between Lapad and Babin kuk. the scampi in buzara sauce are
HVAR: Antika  well worth trying; and the list
DUBROVNIK: Nautika  Seafood Road Map D5 of local wines provides a good
Seafood Road Map F6 Donja kola 24, Stari Grad introduction to the island’s
Brsalje 3 Tel (021) 765 479 developing viniculture. Outdoor
Tel (020) 442 526 Closed Nov–Mar In the pretty cobblestoned seating is in an atmospheric
Offering fine dining in elegant centre of old Stari Grad is this narrow alley.
surroundings, Nautika blends characterful café-restaurant,
local seafood with the finesse of serving everything from tuna
modern European cuisine, steaks and seafod risottos to KORČULA: Adio Mare 
backed up by impeccable cakes and cocktails. Regional Road Map E6
standards of service. Marka Pola 2
HVAR: Gariful  Tel (020) 711 253 Closed Nov–Mar
DUGI OTOK: Spageritimo  Seafood Road Map D5 Sit on the terrace at this restaurant
Traditional Road Map C4 Riva, Hvar town and savour fresh fish and shellfish
Harbour, Sali Tel (021) 742 999 Closed out dishes, along with a choice of
Tel (023) 377 227 of season local wines. The risotto and
In a little port out on the seafront, With fabulous views of the Dalmatian pašticada (marinated
this restaurant offers fresh fish Pakleni islands and a stunning meat stew) are not to be missed.
and seafood, such as squid and
octopus, as well as meat dishes. KORČULA: Konoba Mate 
Mediterranean Road Map E6
HVAR: Jurin podrum  Pupnat 28, Pupnat
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 717 109 Closed Sun
Donja kola 11, Stari Grad This family-run establishment
Tel (021) 765 448 Closed Nov–Apr makes use of produce from its
Occupying a stone building in own garden to prepare the tasty
the centre of Stari Grad’s Old dishes. Try the Labourer's Plate –
Town, “Jura’s Cellar” mixes local smoked ham with goat's cheese,
favourites such as octopus stew olives, marinated aubergines
or shellfish in wine sauce with a and capers.
more international selection of
grills, pastas and salads. KORČULA: LD 
Regional Road Map E6
HVAR: Kod Kapetana  Don Pavla Poše 1–6
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 715 560
Fabrika 30, Hvar town Local meat and fish dishes
Tel (021) 742 230 are given an inventive twist
Occupying a pleasant spot on at this classy restaurant, with
Hvar’s harbour-front, “At The seating on Korčula’s waterfront
Captain’s” is popular among the promenade. It’s the ideal place
locals for its fresh fish and squid, Fish Restaurant Proto, Dubrovnik, with to sample the best of local wines
expertly grilled. outdoor seating on two levels and olive oils.
MAKARSKA: Jež 

Mediterranean Road Map E5
Petra Krešimira IV 90
Tel (021) 611 741
Traditional Dalmatian cuisine is
served in a modern, light and airy
environment. The fish dishes are
excellent; the desserts divine.
METKOVIĆ: Villa Neretva 

Regional Road Map E6
Splitska 14, Krvavac II
Tel 020 672 200
This family-run hotel restaurant
is famed for its Neretva Delta
specialities: frogs legs prepared in
a variety of ways, or mixed with
chopped eel to make a delicious
brodet, a spicy red soup. Restaurant Nautika in Dubrovnik, on the western entrance to the Old Town
OREBIĆ: Saints Hills Vinaria  ŠIBENIK: Tinel  and remains totally unspoiled
Regional Road Map E6 Traditional Road Map D5 by its growing popularity with
Zagruda Trg pučkih kapetana 1 in-the-know tourists.
Tel (020) 742 113 Tel (098) 870 080
Set amidst vineyards in an old Situated in a small square in the SPLIT: Galija 
stone house, this winery offers Old Town, this restaurant covers Pizzeria Road Map D5
innovative variants of traditional two floors and serves a range of Kamila Tončića 12
Dalmatian fare. The vegetables Dalmatian classics – seafood, Tel (021) 347 932
and spices used come from the grilled meats and stews. For years Galija has been a
garden outside. Book in advance. favourite among locals, offering
ŠIBENIK: Uzorita  inexpensive thin-crust pizzas in
PAG: Konoba Bodulo  Regional Road Map D5 a cosy street-corner location a
Traditional Road Map C4 Bana Josipa Jelačića 58 short walk from Diocletian’s Palace.
Vangrada 19 Tel (022) 213 660
Tel (091) 564 8212 Closed Oct–Mar A sleek interior and modern patio SPLIT: Kod Joze 
Fresh and simple food is served give a contemporary feel to this Traditional Road Map D5
in the welcome shade of a grape- traditional restaurant, specializing Sredmanuška 4
vine. The menu offers all kinds of in locally farmed mussels, fresh Tel (021) 347 397
seafood, pasta and meat dishes, seafood and roast meats. The traditional decor featuring
as well as desserts; the soupy fish bare stone walls and fishing
stew (brodet) is delicious. ŠIBENIK: Pelegrini  nets provides the ideal
Mediterranean Road Map D5 background for a reliable menu
PAG: Boškinac  Jurja Dalmatinca 1 of good, inexpensive seafood.
Traditonal Road Map C4 Tel (022) 213 701 Closed Mon;
Škopaljska ulica 220 Jan & Feb SPLIT: Marjan 
Tel (053) 663 500 Closed mid-Nov– In a 700-year-old villa alongside Seafood Road Map D5
mid-Mar the cathedral, Pelegrini gives Senjska 1
Local island produce, including a modern twist and exquisite, Tel (098) 934 68 48
Pag’s excellent lamb, fresh fish contemporary presentation to A tiny, family-run tavern serving
and famous cheese, are served local produce and specialities, fresh fish and traditional stews,
with style at this boutique hotel’s including an extensive list Marjan is popular with locals and
restaurant in its pretty setting. of the best Croatian wines. tourists – be prepared to wait for
Attentive staff serve unmissable a table in summer.
fare in a gorgeous setting.
SPLIT: UpCafé 
SPLIT: Bobis  Vegetarian Road Map D5
Café Road Map D5 Domovinskog rata 29a
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog A short walk away from the
preporoda 20 Old Town, this two-storey café
Bobis is something of a Split is well worth seeking out for its
institution, serving coffee, cakes wide range of vegan dishes and
and pastries to generations of tasty desserts.
locals. It’s a good place to try local
specialities like krostata (fruit pie). SPLIT: Varoš 
Traditional Road Map D5
SPLIT: Bufet Fife  Ban Mladenova 7
Traditional Road Map D5 Tel (021) 396 138
Trumbićeva obala 11 A traditional restaurant popular
Tel (021) 345 223 with lunching locals, Varoš has an
Very much a legend of the local extensive menu of traditional
culinary scene, Fife offers large, Dalmatian seafood and grilled
Tables under the ancient stone arcades at inexpensive portions of meat dishes, washed down with
Giaxa, old Hvar town Dalmatian seafood and stews, robust house wine.
SPLIT: Bajamonti 
Mediterranean Road Map D5
Trg republike 1
Tel (021) 341 033
In this elegant eatery, you can
get coffee and cakes, as well as
a juicy steak or a lobster straight
from their tank. There is outdoor
seating on the Venetian-style
Prokurative square.
SPLIT: Noštromo 
Seafood Road Map D5
Kraj sv. Marije 10
Tel (091) 405 6666
Right next to the fish market,
Nostromo is a reliable place to
find fresh seafood, cooked with
flair and imagination. Formal Dining area on a canopied stone jetty at Foša in Zadar
restaurant upstairs; casual bar
on the ground floor. Dalmatian ingredients, backed VIS: Jastožera 
up with an impresssive wine Regional Road Map D6
SPLIT: Stellon  list – and a chance to sample Gundulićeva 6, Komiža
Regional Road Map D5 boutique Dalmatian olive oils. Tel (099) 670 77 55
Uvala Bačvice bb Local lobster is the focus at
Tel (021) 489 200 STON: Konoba Bakus  this atmospheric restaurant,
Stellon is a modern-looking bar- Regional Road Map E6 situated in a wooden pavilion
restaurant above Bačvice beach, Angeli Radovani 5 mounted above the shoreline
serving pastas and European Tel (020) 754 270 lobster pens. A variety of fresh
classics to a young and The local seafood menu at this fish is also available.
fashionable clientele. family-run eatery is impeccably
cooked and presented – oysters
SPLIT: Boban  from Mali Ston and traditional DK Choice
European Road Map D5 Dubrovnik-region desserts are VIS: Pojoda 
Hektorovićeva 49 among the specialities. Regional Road Map D6
Tel (021) 543 300 Don Cvjetka Marasovića 8, Vis
Tucked into a residential street, STON: Kapetanova kuća  Tel (021) 711 575
Boban has a long-standing Regional Road Map E6 Situated in a walled garden
reputation for its high-quality Mali Ston shaded by orange trees in the
menu of Adriatic and European Tel (020) 754 555 enchanting suburb of Kut,
fare; the inexpensive daily specials Mali Ston bay is famous for its Pojoda enjoys a Croatia-wide
are popular with local lunchers. oysters, which are prepared in a reputation for cultivating
variety of ways at this elegant traditional Adriatic island
SPLIT: Kadena  restaurant near the waterfront. recipes. The lobster, squid and
Seafood Road Map D5 shellfish dishes are first-class;
Ivana pl. Zajca 4 TROGIR: Fontana  there are also a lot of home-
Tel (021) 389 400 Seafood Road Map D5 style dishes specific to Vis that
Occupying a terrace overlooking Obrov 1 combine seafood with barley,
the seafront path and yachting Tel (021) 885 744 lentils and chick peas. It’s a
marina, Kadena specializes in With an outdoor terrace right popular place in summer, so
local fish and shellfish, prepared on the harbour, Fontana be sure to reserve.
with haute-cuisine flair. specializes in local seafood,
although you can also enjoy
SPLIT: Oyster & Sushi Bar pizzas and juicy grilled meats. VIS: Villa Kaliopa 
Bota  Seafood Road Map D6
Seafood Road Map D5 TROGIR: Kamerlengo  Vladimira Nazora 32, Vis
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 755
preporoda 6 Vukovarska 2 Set in a palm-shaded walled
Tel (021) 488 648 Tel (021) 884 772 garden, Kaliopa is one of the
Located in a striking modern In the heart of the Old Town and most romantic places to eat
pavilion behind Bačvice beach, boasting a lovely walled garden, on the Adriatic coast. The fresh
this is the place to go for expertly Kamerlengo mostly serves seafood is excellent, if a little
grilled fresh fish, sushi Dalmatian- seafood – although the grilled on the expensive side.
style and sparkling-fresh oysters meats are also a speciality.
from Ston just along the coast. ZADAR: Na Po Ure 
VIS: Karijola  Traditional Road Map C4
SPLIT: Uje Oil Bar  Pizzeria Road Map D6 Špire Brusine 8
Bistro Road Map D5 Šetalište viškog boja 4, Vis Tel (023) 312 004
Dominisova 3 Tel (021) 711 358 Closed Oct–Apr Dalmatian staples including fish,
Tel (095) 200 8008 A branch of the Karijola pizzeria squid and pašticada (beef stewed
Billed as an olive-oil bar, Uje based in Zagreb, this place, with in prunes) fill the menu of this
serves quality, tapas-style light a sea-facing terrace, serves inexpensive and homely bistro in
bites based on traditional reliable thin-crust pies. the Old Town.
ZADAR: Šime  Karijola  Sofra 

Pizzeria Road Map C4 Pizzeria Road Map D2 Bosnian-Herzegovinian
Matije Gupca 15 Vlaška 63 Road Map D2
Tel (023) 334 848 Tel (01) 553 10 16 Radnička cesta 52
In the seaside suburb of Borik, A long-standing favourite among Tel (01) 411 16 21
the enjoyable Šime offers locals, Karijola serves up thin-crust In the Green Gold shopping
excellent pizzas and pastas on a pizzas with traditional Italian and centre, Sofra is one of the best
large outdoor terrace crammed creative Croatian toppings. places in the city to try traditional
with wooden benches. Balkan grilled-meat dishes and
Lari & Penati  hearty savoury cheese, spinach
ZADAR: Pet bunara  Bistro Road Map D2 or potato pies.
Regional Road Map C4 Petrinjska 42a
Stratico bb Tel (01) 465 57 76 La Štruk 
Tel (023) 224 010 This eatery offers high-quality Traditional Road Map D2
Locally sourced ingredients, a but affordable bistro dishes Skalinska 5
modern-European sense of based on what the chef finds Tel (01) 483 77 01
creativity, and traditional recipes fresh in the market, with This small restaurant serves only
forgotten elsewhere combine to traditional Croatian fare spiced štrukli – a northern Croatian speci-
make this one of the best places up with global combinations. ality made from dough filled with
to enjoy Dalmatian cuisine. cottage cheese. Try the authentic
Millennium  dish or one of the modern
ZADAR: Foša  Café Road Map D2 variations with additions such as
Seafood Road Map C4 Bogovićeva 7 pumpkin seeds, pesto or paprika.
Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2 Tel (01) 481 08 50
Tel (023) 314 421 One of the most popular places Torte i to 
Situated in a stone house on on the Bogovićeva café strip, Café Road Map D2
a small harbour, Foša serves Millennium has a wide choice of Centar Kaptol, Nova ves 11
expertly prepared fresh fish, hard-to-resist ice creams, plus Tel (01) 486 06 91
either simply grilled or served tarts, puddings and cakes galore. Situated in a shopping centre 10
with imaginative sauces. minutes’ walk from Zagreb’s main
Nokturno  square, this small place serves
Italian Road Map D2 the most famous cheesecakes in
Skalinska 4 town. Expect flavours both classic
Zagreb Tel (01) 481 33 94 and creative.
With tables set out attractively
Agava  in a sloping alleyway, Nokturno Vallis Aurea 
Mediterranean Road Map D2 is a popular venue for good, Central European Road Map D2
Tkalčićeva 39 inexpensive pizzas and large, Tomićeva 4
Tel (01) 482 98 26 substantial salads. Tel (01) 483 13 05 Closed Sun
A narrow flight of stairs takes Traditional Croatian fare is served
you to this innovative restaurant, Oranž  in a wood-panelled interior at
situated on one of the liveliest Café/Wine Bar Road Map D2 this eatery. Slavonian dishes such
streets in Zagreb. The black Angus Ilica 7 as čobanac (paprika-rich stew)
steak is worth a try. Tel (01) 778 73 00 feature on a meat-heavy menu.
This smart, chic city-centre venue
Chocolat 041  boasts an impressive selection of Vincek 
Café Road Map D2 cakes and some good savoury Café Road Map D2
Masarykova 25 choices too, including quiches, Ilica 18
Tel (01) 485 53 82 sandwiches, burgers, steaks, Tel (01) 483 36 12 Closed Sun
This centrally located café with a tapas and salads. Vincek is justifiably famous for its
1980s New Wave theme is noted home-made ice cream, but this
for its excellent ice creams and a Pauza  popular café also offers an array
seriously dangerous array of Bistro Road Map D2 of delicious cakes and pastries.
chocolate cakes. Preradovićeva 34
Tel (01) 485 45 98 Closed Sun
Ivek i Marek  Adriatic seafood and Asian spices
Café Road Map D2 are the hallmarks of Pauza’s
Tkalčićeva 70 imaginative menu, although
Tel (01) 482 89 99 there’s a lot more besides, with
This bright, folksy café serves soups, pastas and salads serving
beautiful cakes, all made with the lunchtime crowds.
wholemeal flour. Try a slice of
Međimurska gibanica, a rich Ribice i tri točkice 
layered cake. Seafood Road Map D2
Preradovićeva 7/1
Kaptolska klet  Tel (01) 563 54 79
Central European Road Map D2 This enjoyable restaurant
Kaptol 5 decked out in maritime murals
Tel (01) 487 65 02 specializes in Adriatic seafood
In an attractive courtyard right dishes that won’t break the bank,
opposite the cathedral, this with fillets of fish, squid and
restaurant excels in schnitzel-style octopus stews and risottos filling Old and new combined in the decor and on
meat dishes and freshwater fish. an extensive menu. the menu at Pet bunara, Zadar
Mali Bar  Baltazar 

Bistro Road Map D2 Grill Road Map D2
Vlaška 63 Nova ves 4
Tel (01) 553 10 14 Tel (01) 466 69 99
Through a courtyard and up Baltazar has long been a firm
some steps, this small, semi- favourite among meat-eaters,
hidden bistro serves quality with traditional cuts of pork and
Croatian-European fare in small veal expertly grilled and served in
but delicious portions. an atmospheric courtyard.
Mostovi 
Bosnian-Herzegovinian DK Choice
Road Map D2 Bistro Apetit 
Radnička cesta 1a International Road Map D2
Tel (01) 619 21 78 Jurjevska 65a
A large, lively, popular restaurant Tel (01) 467 73 35
in Zagreb’s new business district, A short walk north of Zagreb’s
Mostovi serves Balkan-style oven- Upper Town, award-winning
Tables on the covered terrace at Vinodol, roast meats, savoury pastries and Apetit specializes in creative
central Zagreb delicious syrupy desserts. Mediterranean-European
cuisine, with fresh, locally
Apetit City  Nishta  sourced ingredients forming
International Road Map D2 Vegetarian Road Map D2 the backbone of a seasonally
Masarykova 18 Masarykova 11/1 changing menu that includes a
Tel (01) 481 10 77 Tel (01) 889 74 44 Closed Mon good balance of meat and fish.
Specializing in Central European Quality, creative vegetarian There’s a strong list of Croatian
and Mediterranean fare, the menu cuisine, complete with vegan and international wines, and
here features soups, home-made and gluten-free options, is the desserts are sublime. In
pasta, fresh fish and classic meat served here in bright, relaxing summer, tables are set out in
dishes. Pair these with wines surroundings. The drinks menu an attractive garden. Parking is
from the excellent collection. includes home-made lemonades available for guests.
and organic wines.
Boban 
Italian Road Map D2 Pod gričkim topom  Dubravkin put 
Gajeva 9 Central European Road Map D2 Mediterranean Road Map D2
Tel (01) 481 15 49 Zakmardijeve stube 5 Dubravkin put 2
In a brick-lined basement below Tel (01) 483 36 07 Tel (01) 483 49 75 Closed Sun
the café of the same name, Dishes from all over Croatia are A culinary landmark, this eatery
Boban serves some of the best served at this uniquely secluded offers a light lunch menu, a
pasta dishes in the city, backed venue, nestling in a walled fine dining dinner menu and
up by a good list of Italian wines. garden just below the Upper a dégustation menu that changes
Town’s funicular station. daily. The wine collection is
Carpaccio  extensive.
Italian Road Map D2 Vinodol 
Teslina 14 Central European Road Map D2 Mano 
Tel (01) 482 23 31 Teslina 10 International Road Map D2
This is a chic but not too formal Tel (01) 481 14 27 Medvedgradska 2
place to enjoy mainstream Italian Grilled meats and roast lamb Tel (01) 466 94 32 Closed Sun
food, with meat and fish are the specialities at this Exposed brick walls lend post-
carpaccios filling out the list of popular city-centre restaurant, industrial chic to this restaurant
starters, veal cutlet mains, and boasting a large terrace in a set in a former leather factory;
some thrilling desserts. covered courtyard. the building also houses a
sculpture museum. The menu
takes its cue from seasonal
availability at the Dolac market.
Okrugljak 
Traditional Road Map D2
Mlinovi 28
Tel (01) 467 41 12
Traditional Croatian dishes
are cooked with finesse at
this Zagreb institution. Try
the popular štrukli and other
meat dishes from the region.
Takenoko 
Japanese Road Map D2
Nova ves 17
Tel (01) 486 05 30
Much more than just a sushi bar,
Japanese-themed Takenoko
Nishta, a haven for those seeking meat-free and gluten-free choices in Zagreb serves some of the most inventive
fusion cuisine in the country,

including Adriatic seafood spiced
up with oriental ingredients.
Trilogija 
European Road Map D2
Kamenita 5
Tel (01) 485 13 94 Closed Sun
Situated near the Stone Gate,
Trilogija has a changing menu that
incorporates ingredients from the
nearby Dolac market. The wine
list, with over a 100 labels from
around the world, is impressive.
Zinfandel’s 
Fine Dining Road Map D2
Mihanovićeva 1
Tel (01) 456 66 44 Tapas-style Croatian food at Mali Bar, Zagreb
Modern European cuisine is the
name of the game at this elegant SAMOBOR: Samoborska klet  ZVEČAJ: Zeleni kut 
but not over-formal hotel Central European Road Map C2 Regional Road Map C2
restaurant, boasting an Art Deco- Trg kralja Tomislava 7 Zvečaj 109
styled interior and a long list of Tel (01) 332 65 36 Tel (047) 866 100
international wines. This family-run restaurant just Freshwater fish from their own
behind the town square serves pond and local meats dominate
straightforward Croatian fare – the menu in this plainly built
schnitzel-style cuts of meat, tasty but idyllically situated restaurant,
Central Croatia sausages, and the occasional by gently cascading river falls.
Adriatic seafood option. Pizzas and vegetarian dishes
ČIGOĆ: are also available here.
Tradicije Čigoć  SAMOBOR: U prolazu 
Regional Road Map D2 Café Road Map C2
Čigoć 7a Trg kralja Tomislava 5
Tel (044) 715 124 Tel (01) 336 64 20 Slavonia and
This traditional-style wooden One of the specialities of
house in a riverside Lonjsko Polje Samobor is a cream cake called Baranja
stork village provides the perfect kremšnita, and this popular café,
ambience in which to feast on with chairs spread across the BRODSKI STUPNIK:
freshwater fish and local game. town square, is one of the best Stupnički dvori 
places to try it. Traditional Road Map E2
GRABERJE IVANIĆKO: Vinogradska 65
Kezele  SAMOBOR: Pri staroj vuri  Tel (035) 427 775
Traditional Road Map D2 Central European Road Map C2 Dine (almost) among the vines
Vinogradska 6 Giznik 2 at the restaurant of this restful
Tel (01) 282 04 96 Tel (01) 336 05 48 Closed Tue hotel and fine winery, in a
Superb country-cooked classics In a charming cottage above the picturesque vine-growing village.
are served this working farm in a town square, the “Old Clock” The helpful team are ready to
rural setting: mouthwatering spit- bases its reputation on hearty help you match their traditional
roasts and baked meats, delicious country cooking involving plenty dishes – including wine soup –
baked dessert pastries and the of veal, pork and fowl. with their own and other
farm’s own wines and liqueurs. Croatian vintages.
SAMOBOR:
JASTREBARSKO: Samoborski slapovi  ĐAKOVO:
K Lojzeku  Seafood Road Map C2 Croatia Turist 
Central European Road Map C2 Hamor 16 Regional Road Map F2
Strossmayerov trg 12 Tel (01) 338 42 34 Petra Preradovića 25
Tel (01) 628 11 29 Closed Sun Just northwest of Samobor in Tel (031) 813 391
This well-respected restaurant a wooded valley, Samoborski This is a restaurant that serves
provides traditional Croatian slapovi is a fish farm with its own the whole gamut of Slavonian
cooking with a creative twist; excellent restaurant – try the cuisine, from spicy kulen salami
expect plenty of roast poultry pan-fried trout. to freshwater fish and čobanac
and grilled meats. (spicy meat stew).
SISAK: Cocktail 
KARLOVAC: Žganjer  Central European Road Map D2 DARUVAR: Terasa 
Central European Road Map C2 A. Starčevića 27 Central European Road Map E2
Jelaši 41 Tel (044) 549 137 Julijev park 1
Tel (047) 641 333 Located in the centre of Sisak, Tel (043) 331 705
South of Karlovac towards this popular restaurant opts for Located near Daruvar’s main spa
Plitvice, this roadside restaurant a mixture of traditional Croatian buiding, this restaurant serves
prides itself on serving traditional pork and veal dishes and Croatian, Hungarian and Italian
specialities such as spit-roast Mediterranean-influenced cuisine in an ambience of old-
lamb and suckling pig. pastas and salads. fashioned elegance.
ILOK: Villa Iva 

Regional Road Map G2
Radićeva 23
Tel (032) 591 011
This popular guesthouse with a
well-stocked wine cellar serves
fish fresh from the Danube, pastas,
salads, and some superb desserts.
ILOK: Dunav 
Regional Road Map G2
Julija Benešića 62
Tel (032) 596 500
Set on lawns right beside the
Danube, this hotel restaurant is
renowned for its fresh fish, serving
the spicy stewed fiš paprikaš in
individual metal cauldrons.
Cosy rustic styling at Kod Ruže, Osijek
ILOK:
Stari podrum  NOVA GRADIŠKA: SLAVONSKI BROD: Onyx 
Central European Road Map G2 Slavonski biser  Pizzeria Road Map F3
Šetalište O M Barbarića 4 Central European Road Map E2 Nikole Zrinskog 50
Tel (032) 590 088 Teslina 2–4 Tel (035) 445 555
This award-winning wine Tel (035) 363 259 Bright, welcoming Onyx is
producer has a restaurant in the This simple but welcoming primarily a pizzeria, although it
medieval part of the town over restaurant serves a well-cooked also serves Croatian/European
its cavernous cellars, offering standard range of Central fare ranging from grilled meats to
new wines and venerable European dishes and a few fried squid and Wiener Schnitzel.
vintages to pair with traditional local Slavonian staples.
freshwater fish and meat dishes. VUKOVAR: Vrške 
OSIJEK: Café Waldinger  Regional Road Map G2
Café Road Map F2 Parobrodarska 3
DK Choice Županijska 8 Tel (032) 441 788
KOPAČKI RIT: Tel (031) 250 470 Set right beside the River
Kormoran  Osijek’s most elegant café is a Danube, Vrške is the place for
Traditional Road Map G2 key meeting point for locals freshwater carp, catfish or pike-
Podunavlje bb and a lovely venue for people- perch, pan-fried au naturel or in
Tel (031) 753 099 watching: it serves an irresistible breadcrumbs or batter.
A hearty freshwater fish stew range of cakes, pastries, tarts and
with home-made noodles, ice cream.
spit-grilled carp and dishes DK Choice
made with local game are just OSIJEK: Rustika  ZMAJEVAC: Josić 
some of the rural delights on Pizzeria Road Map F2 Regional Road Map G2
the menu at this rustic complex Pavla Pejačevića 32 Planina 194
set in the Kopački Rit Nature Tel (031) 369 400 Tel (031) 734 410 Closed Mon, Tue
Park. With a relaxed, country- Pizza is the main attraction at this Located in an artfully renovated
tavern vibe inside and large, large, family-oriented restaurant, surduk, or tunnel-like wine cellar
safe play areas outside, it’s ideal although grilled meats, salads burrowed into a hill, Josić is one
for a family pitstop. and pasta dishes ensure that of the trend-setters of Baranja
there is something for everyone. tourism, serving local specialities
such as fiš paprikaš (paprika-
KUTJEVO: OSIJEK: Kod Ruže  stewed fish) and game, all in
Schön Blick  Regional Road Map F2 a modern setting. The owner is
Regional Road Map F2 Kuhačeva 25a a leading winemaker and there
Zagrebačka 18, Vetovo Tel (031) 206 066 is a choice of wines from Josić
Tel (034) 267 108 Appropriately decked out and other Croatian vineyards.
Located in an idyllic rural setting, in agricultural implements,
Schön Blick serves freshwater Kod Ruže serves traditional
fish and grilled meats with country food such as paprika-rich
great finesse. stews featuring plenty of game
and fish. The Northern
NAŠICE: Ribnjak 
Counties
Regional Road Map F2 OSIJEK: Slavonska kuća 
Stjepana Radića 1 Regional Road Map F2 ČAKOVEC: Mala hiža 
Tel (031) 607 006 Kamila Firingera 26 Traditional Road Map D1
Located in a charming rustic Tel (031) 369 955 Balogovec 1, Mačkovec
location 10 km (6 miles) outside Decorated to look like a country Tel (040) 341 101
Našice on the Osijek road, the kitchen, the Slavonska kuća or A menu based firmly in the
Ribnjak, or “Fishpond”, is an "Slavonian House" is one of the indigenous, seasonal cuisine is
excellent place in which to best places to sample freshwater complemented by an extensive
enjoy local dishes, including fish, either pan-fried, or stewed as wine list in this lovingly restored
freshwater fish. hot, spicy fiš paprikaš. traditional oak building.
ČAKOVEC: serves great country food. Try home-made pastas, followed

Međimurska hiža  the sausages, game stews, and by a choice of fine strudel.
Regional Road Map D1 locally caught roast boar.
Gajeva 35 TRAKOŠĆAN: Trakošćan 
Tel (040) 390 011 Closed Sun Central European Road Map D1
The centrally located “Međimurje DK Choice Trakošćan bb
House” specializes in a game-rich KRAPINSKE TOPLICE: Tel (042) 440 800
cuisine, with dishes such as Villa Magdalena  A hotel restaurant set in rural
bograč (a goulash-style stew). Regional Road Map D1 surroundings, the Trakošćan
Mirna ulica 1 serves Croatian standards with
KOPRIVNICA: Pivnica Kraluš  Tel (049) 233 333 a regional, Zagorje slant –
Central European Road Map D1 Seasonal produce and local substantial soups and meat
Zrinski trg 10 specialities are given a dishes are the stand-outs.
Tel (048) 622 302 contemporary gastro-style
An 18th-century beer hall on makeover at award-winning VARAŽDIN:
the main square, Kraluš serves Villa Magdalena, offering both Kavana Grofica Marica 
up hearty dishes such as beer à la carte and multi-course Café Road Map D1
sausage, grilled pork chops and taster menus, with vegetarian Trg kralja Tomislava 2
tasty pečeni grah (baked beans). and macrobiotic options for Tel (042) 320 077
those immersing themselves With outdoor seating that
KOPRIVNICA: Podravska klet  in the ambience of this spa billows across the main square,
Regional Road Map D1 destination. The setting, amid Grofica Marica is an ideal spot
Prvomajska 46a, Stari grad the green slopes of the Zagorje for a mid-morning coffee, and
Tel (048) 634 069 Closed Mon hills, is beautiful. also has a wide choice of
This rustic restaurant with wooden pastries and cakes – including
tables and a thatched roof offers their own-brand Grofica Marica
good local produce – home-made KUMROVEC: chocolate torte.
sausage, creamy cows’ cheese, Villa Zelenjak 
game stews and roast boar. Traditional Road Map C1 VARAŽDIN: Verglec 
Risvica 1 Regional Road Map D1
Tel (049) 550 747 Silvija Strahimira Kranjčevića 12
DK Choice Set in lush green surroundings, Tel (042) 211 131
KRAPINA: Vuglec breg  this restaurant follows the The centrally located Verglec
Regional Road Map D1 culinary tradition of Croatia to straddles two culinary cultures
Škarićevo 151 prepare classic dishes using with a menu offering both
Tel (049) 345 015 locally sourced ingredients. excellent pizzas and filling
A rustic hilltop restaurant 7 km northern Croatian fare. Roast
(4 miles) west of Krapina, Vuglec MARIJA BISTRICA: duck and roast pork are among
breg specializes in traditional Restoran Academia  the specialities.
Zagorje specialities such as roast Regional Road Map D1
turkey, goose, pork and veal Zagrebačka bb VARAŽDIN: Turist 
knuckle – all of which are best Tel (049) 326 600 Central European Road Map D1
enjoyed with home-made mlinci Located in the Hotel Kaj, Aleja kralja Zvonimira 1
(pasta sheets soaked in meaty this smart restaurant injects Tel (042) 395 395
juices). The wine list features some modern European This elegant hotel restaurant
inland Croatia’s best labels. The creativity into the traditional serves fine food from all of
desserts are first-class and the Zagorje repertoire of poultry, Croatia’s regions, with game
views of the rolling Zagorje hills grains and pasta. dishes, grilled meats and Adriatic
are worth savouring. seafood all well represented.
SVETI KRIŽ ZAČRETJE:
Klet Kozjak  VELIKI TABOR:
KRAPINSKE TOPLICE: Regional Road Map D1 Grešna Gorica 
Zlatna Lisica  Kozjak 18a, Sveti Križ Začretje Regional Road Map C1
Central European Road Map D1 Tel (049) 228 800 Taborgradska 35, Desinić
Martinišće 29 In a restored hilltop farmhouse Tel (049) 343 001
Tel (049) 236 627 10 km (6 miles) south of Krapina, This hilltop farm (with a
With a great view overlooking this traditional restaurant offers diverting petting zoo) offers
rolling hills, this simple restaurant roast meats and poultry with generous cuts of grilled and
roast meats, locally sourced
poultry, and home-made pasta.
Grab a table that enjoys the
views of Veliki Tabor castle.
ZABOK:
Dvorac Gjalski 
Central European Road Map D1
Gredice Zabočke 7
Tel (049) 201 100
This excellent hotel restaurant is
based in a former castle and has
a medieval theme. The extensive
menu includes a wide variety of
Peaceful, hilltop setting at the traditional Vuglec breg, Krapina Croatian cuisine.
SHOPPING IN CROATIA
Croatia does its best to encourage its On the island of Pag, exquisite lace is
visitors to go shopping (indeed it is a made and in Osijek, where beautiful
significant factor in local economies) and embroidery is a proud tradition, you can
there is a range of traditional and typical also buy pretty costume dolls. Ties and
crafts that make excellent souvenirs. The fountain pens, both of which originated
prices are by and large very reasonable in Croatia, also make good purchases. In
too. Shoppers can choose from a variety some resorts, local artists make a living
of products, from works of creative by selling their watercolours. Visitors can
handicraft such as handmade lace or also buy all sorts of delicious Croatian
hand-painted ceramics to jewellery. comestibles, from honey to plum brandy.
often displayed in the markets, or by posting the verified

but it should be remembered receipt back to the shop,
that at times the prices together with the number of
displayed are not always the the bank account into which
same as those applied to the the refund should be paid. In
local people. The spending this case the refund is dealt
power of foreign visitors is with within 15 days of receipt
frequently much greater than of the claim.
that of the local Croats and can
occasionally result in pricing
variations for locals. Markets
The street markets of Croatia
are colourful, lively places to
Paying stroll around.
In department stores, shopping In Zagreb, the Dolac (see
centres and the major chain p159) is a daily market where
stores, it is possible to pay using food is sold under colourful
one of the main international red umbrellas. There is also an
Jars of various types of honey, a speciality credit cards. In the smaller underground area here where
on the island of Šolta shops and in places such as other products such as meat,
markets, payments should be dairy products and food
Opening Hours made in cash, with kuna. are sold.
Shops and department stores In Split there is a morning
are usually open from 8am to market which is held every
8pm from Monday to Friday Vat Refunds day on Pazar, just east of the
(but some stores may open at Tourists in Croatia who spend palace walls. This market sells
7am and close at 9pm) and more than 740 kuna on a single absolutely everything: fruit,
from 8am to 2 or 3pm on item are entitled to a refund of vegetables, flowers, shoes,
Saturdays. However, remember the Value Added Tax (VAT),
that sometimes small shops in which is called PDV in Croatia.
the smaller towns close at When making your purchase,
lunchtime, usually from noon you should ask the sales
to 4pm in summer. Shops are assistant for the appropriate
generally closed on Sundays form (PDV–P or Tax Free), which
and holidays but in the high should be properly filled in and
season in the tourist resorts stamped, on the spot.
many shops stay open for This document should
business as usual. be handed to the customs
authorities on departure from
Croatia, thus verifying that the
Prices item bought is genuinely
The prices are fixed in the shops destined for export.
and it is not usual to haggle A PDV refund in kuna can
over prices. This is also the case be obtained within three
in the markets and at the street months, either at the same
stalls where prices are also fixed shop where the goods were
and it is not common practice purchased (in which case the Fruit and vegetables on sale at the Dolac
to negotiate. The prices are tax is refunded immediately), market in Zagreb
S H O P P I N G I N C R O AT I A  251
clothes and a vast assortment

of souvenirs. There is a local
saying which has it that if you
cannot find what you are
looking for at this market, it
probably does not exist (at least
not in Split).
Shopping Centres
Large shopping centres can also
be found in Croatia, mainly in
the larger towns and cities. Here
you will find a number of shops
selling assorted merchandise
under one roof, usually including
a large department store or
supermarket. Decorated ceramic objects on display
In Zagreb one of the busiest
and best-known department themes. You can also buy background. This design is used
stores is Nama, which is right in good reproductions of objects to decorate table linen, pillow
the centre of the city. Another from the era of Roman rule in cases and blouses.
useful shopping centre, also in the underground area of In 2009 lace making in
the city centre, is Importanne Diocletian’s Palace (see p122). Croatia was inscribed on the
Centar. The Importanne In Osijek, many shops in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural
Galerija is open weekdays centre of the city sell typical Heritage of Humanity list. This
and Saturdays. locally made handicrafts. Here includes three different
Avenue Mall is another huge you can also find dolls dressed traditions of lace making,
shopping centre has over 130 in beautifully made costumes, namely Pag needlepoint lace,
shops, including international packages of special lace and Lepoglava bobbin lace and
names such as Benetton, in particular fabrics finely Hvar aloe lace.
Adidas, Esprit and Marks & embroidered with gold and The lace of Pag is justly famous
Spencer. Westgate Shopping silver thread. and widely admired. The origins
City is a huge shopping centre of the lace date back to the
just outside Zagreb. Renaissance period, when it was
Embroidery and Lace used to decorate the blouses of
One important typical Croatian the ladies of the island of Pag.
Traditional Handicrafts craft is the art of embroidery, However, it was not until
There are lots of opportunities which is carried out more or the beginning of the 20th
for the visitor to buy a variety less everywhere. century that this particular
of typical Croatian handicrafts One very characteristic handiwork assumed its well-
and produce, which make very design is a red geometric deserved fame, thanks to a
tempting souvenirs. pattern stitched onto a white beautifully decorated blouse
The country has a long given by a noblewoman to the
tradition of skilled production Archduchess of Austria Marie
of a rich range of handicrafts Josephine. This gift was so
and typical produce. Production greatly appreciated and
of these crafts is encouraged admired that the archduchess
and supported by the local went to Pag in person to order
authorities, who see it as a more items of clothing. At that
good way of preserving the time, the Austrian court set
cultural heritage and the trends for others to follow, and
ancient traditions and crafts this was enough to guarantee
of the country. the future success for the
In Zagreb, you can buy production of this lace.
clothes, handbags, fashion The lace is made on a
accessories, pillow cases and long cylindrical cushion by
table linens embroidered with lacemakers of great skill and
Glagolitic (ancient Slavic) letters tremendous patience. The lace
and traditional motifs at Etno patterns produced are the
butik Mara. In Split you can lacemaker’s interpretation of
find a large assortment of patterns and designs which
souvenirs, including objects Gold thread embroidery produced in the have been passed down from
clearly inspired by maritime town of Osijek generation to generation. In this
since that time it has become

more lavish and elaborate, so
much so that its production has
become the preserve of
goldsmiths. The body of the
figure is traditionally glazed
ceramic. On request, precious
stones may be used to decorate
this figure. The best place to
buy a morčić in Rijeka is the
Mala Galerija.
Curiosities
Croatia can claim to have
invented one of the most well-
Lacemaker working on a piece of Pag lace known of men’s accessories, the
tie, or cravat. The tie actually
way, the pieces of lace that are from a Turkish siege during the originates from a type of scarf
produced can often be very 16th century. It was shown that worn by Croatian cavalrymen
different from one another. a determining factor in the to distinguish them from other
However, all the patterns victory was the contribution of soldiers during the bloody
originate with the same the women of Rijeka and it is 30-year war which devastated
geometric structure which said that their men decided to Europe in the 17th century.
forms the base. give them a gift of special The French took to referring
Pag lace is surprisingly light earrings made to represent to this particular way of tying
but at the same time strong. the invaders who had been the scarf as “à la cravate”,
If at all possible, pieces of the forced to flee for their lives. meaning “in the Croatian
lace should be bought in Pag In fact, it seems more way”. Since that time the
itself. Not only can you be sure likely that the morčić tie, or cravat, has become
of paying a better price than originated in the 17th a standard symbol of
elsewhere but you will be and 18th centuries as a smart, elegant dressing
helping to keep alive a tradition local reproduction, made for hundreds of millions
which is over a century old. from decidedly poor of men in the world.
Prices vary according to the materials, of a figurine The production of
size of the piece you buy, set with stones which ties in Croatia today
but if you consider that a table was very popular with is still of a very high
centrepiece measuring 10 cm the Venetians. The An earring with the standard, and a tie
(4 in) in diameter takes a figurine represented the morčić of Rijeka would make a highly
good 24 hours to make, you connections between appropriate choice
will have some idea of the Venice and the East and the for a souvenir of your visit.
labour involved. mystery that this part of the There are some very good
The only place to buy lace in world symbolized for them at clothes shops in the centre of
Pag is at the Lace gallery and the time. The figure soon Zagreb where you can buy an
shop in the old part of town. became a symbol of good luck assortment of ties, including the
among the Istrian people and high-end Boutique Croata.
Lucky Jewellery
There is one item of jewellery
which can only be found in
Croatia or, more precisely, only
in Rijeka. This is the morčić or
small Moorish figure. The
figurine, in the form of a black
character wearing a turban, was
originally produced as earrings
but today you can also find tie-
pins and brooches. The morčić
has become the symbol of the
city and, in 1991, it was
proclaimed the mascot of
Rijeka. A legend dates the
origins of the figurine to the
city’s unexpected liberation One of many jeweller’s shops in Croatia
S H O P P I N G I N C R O AT I A  253
Another little-known fact is DIRECTORY

that the inventor of the fountain
pen was an engineer from Shopping Centres
Zagreb. In 1906, one Eduard
Avenue Mall
Slavoljub Penkala patented a
mechanical pencil and a year Avenija Dubrovnik 16,
later a pen with a reservoir of Zagreb.
ink, called the “mechanical pen”, Tel (01) 659 10 50.
which revolutionized the way Open 8am–10pm daily (cafés,
people wrote. restaurants and cinema
The inventor opened the first stay open longer).
factory for the production of
fountain pens in Zagreb in 1911. Paški sir, the sheep’s cheese of Pag, sold on Importanne Centar
Within a short space of time it the island Starčevićev trg 7, Zagreb.
became an enormous success Tel (01) 457 70 76.
and developed into one of the stalls near the port, where Open 9am–9pm Mon–Sat.
most important manufacturing you can buy any number of
centres for writing instruments, cosmetic products made Importanne Galerija
producing fountain pens which with lavender. Iblerov trg 10, Zagreb.
were exported all over the world. The gastronomic specialities Tel (01) 461 95 03.
There could not be a more of Croatia also make excellent Open 9am–9pm Mon–Sat.
appropriate place to buy this souvenirs. Many places have
Nama
everyday item than Zagreb itself. their own particular speciality.
Among many items worthy of Ilica near Trg bana Jelačića,
mention are the mustard (in Zagreb.
traditional containers) made in Tel (01) 480 31 11.
Samobor, near Zagreb, the
Westgate Shopping City
honey from Grohote, on the
Zaprešićka 2, Jablanovec,
island of Šolta, and cukarini
biscuits from Korčula. Croatia Donja Bistra (free bus service
is also famous for olive oil. Uje from Zagreb).
oleotecas, a chain of stores Tel (01) 555 33 33.
that sell olive oil, wines, jams,
traditional Croatian sweets as Shops
well as olive wood products
and ceramics, can be found Boutique Croata
in Zagreb, Osijek and many Prolaz Oktogon, Ilica 5,
coastal towns Zagreb.
Another unmissable delicacy Tel (01) 645 70 52.
is the delicious truffle found
Etno butik Mara
around Buzet, overlooking the
Ties on display in a shop in the Mirna valley in Istria (although Ilica 49, Zagreb.
centre of Zagreb these are only available in Lace gallery and shop
season). Other delicacies include Trg Petra Krešimira IV, Pag.
Local Produce pršut (a type of smoked ham)
The gastronomic specialities and kulen (a type of smoked Mala Galerija
and local produce of Croatia sausage) found in Slavonia. Užarska 25, Rijeka.
are as varied as the landscape However, the most highly Tel (051) 335 403.
of Croatia. valued product is cheese.
Among the country’s best- Croatia produces a range of
known natural products, its own cheeses, and the most
one of the most important well-known is paški sir, a mature
is lavender. Lavender is sold cheese made from sheep’s
dried in small bags or as milk, produced on the island
essence in bottles. It can be of Pag (see pp104–5). It is still
found more or less all over made according to traditional
the country but is particularly methods and the grazing pasture
linked with the island of for the sheep, full of aromatic
Hvar (see pp130–33), where its herbs, is said to give it a
colour and scent can nearly distinctive flavour.
overwhelm the senses when To buy the cheese on the
the shrubs are in flower. The island just look for signs with the
scent is particularly pungent name of the cheese, “paški sir” Seller of essence and lavender bags on the
when you browse the lavender outside the farmhouses. island of Hvar
ENTERTAINMENT IN CROATIA
Although Croatians speak a language anyone. The settings for many of these
which is most likely completely unknown entertainments are often memorably
to the average visitor, the country still spectacular, too. Performance details are
manages to offer a surprisingly varied readily available from weekly or monthly
range of accessible and engaging magazines of events and from tourist
entertainment for visitors of all age offices and websites. Tickets are usually
groups. A choice of opera, ballet, folk easy to come by, and can be bought at
music festivals, disco nightclubs, cinemas, venue ticket desks or often in advance
casinos, tennis, football and basketball from local tourist offices. Read ahead to
matches should be sufficient to satisfy see what’s on and where to go.
They put on performances

almost every weekend.
Croatia’s many traditional
festivals not only have particular
dishes associated with them,
but dances too. The most
famous of these is undoubtedly
Korčula’s sword dance,
traditionally enacted in the
town centre on the evening
of St Theodore’s Day, July 29th.
Such is the attraction of the
Moreška, as it is known, that this
costumed 15th-century dance
is now performed outside
of that holiday date – every
Ornate interior of the Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb Monday and Thursday at 9pm
throughout July and August,
Information and Tickets Theatre and Dance sometimes even in June and
For information concerning Plays are generally performed September as well. Tickets at
dates, times, prices and in the Croatian language the event, or in advance from
booking details of the various which, unless you speak it, an agency, are not terribly
festivals, shows, theatre can marginalize the theatre as expensive. It is obviously
performances and musicals, an evening’s entertainment for touristy, but still worth seeing
it is best to get in touch all but the most ardent as they really do swing those
with the relevant local tourist thespians. There is, however, swords around. At any festive
information office in Croatia. an important reason why you occasion in Croatia, there are
All these offices can provide should nonetheless check out several famous folk dances you
details about the cultural what’s on at the theatre in any may well come across: the
events happening in their town you happen to be in. poskočica, where couples weave
part of the country. Another High-class performances of themselves into intricate
good source of information opera and ballet, for which not configurations; the kolo, a
can be the Internet. The knowing the language is not a pan-Slavic circular dance
Croatian National Tourist barrier to enjoyment, are put on and the drmeš, a type of
Board’s website is www. by Zagreb’s Croatian National speeded-up polka.
croatia.hr. Theatre, Zadar’s Croatian
Posters announcing National Theatre, Rijeka’s
forthcoming events are often Croatian National Theatre
displayed all over cities and Ivan pl Zajc and Split’s
towns and these are often Croatian National Theatre.
useful for finding out about For a more unusual form of
the more important or more drama which also has the
popular shows. advantage of being accessible
For information concerning to visitors, especially families
theatre performances, you can with younger children, consider
also go to the theatre box office a visit to the unique Zagreb
itself, where you can usually buy puppet theatre, the Zagrebačko Costume drama in Dubrovnik, at the
tickets on the spot. kazalište lutaka. Rector’s Palace
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N C R O AT I A  255
Younger Croats simply don’t

have the cash to go out as often
as they would like – but if there’s
a Croatian band on and it’s a
weekend they’ll be out in force,
dressed-up and fully made-up.
Weekday parties in the coastal
resorts are therefore going to
be predominantly for holiday-
makers. Where you will find
plenty of locals almost anytime
are the multipurpose entertain-
ment complexes in Zagreb or
Split, where all their café-bars,
cinemas, discos etc are usually
crowded with youngsters.
Zagreb, Rijeka, Split, Pula
and Dubrovnik all have well-
known discos and nightclubs,
though times and conditions
change so frequently that
Musicians playing traditional Croatian music they should be checked out
locally beforehand.
Music August, and anything at all Zagreb has the ever-popular
Whilst Croatia has nurtured going on in the evening at Aquarius Club which although
classical composers and does Pula’s ancient and stunning 4 km (over 2 miles) from the
have many aspiring rock bands, Roman amphitheatre. city centre has dancing to
unfortunately few people commercial, techno and
outside of Croatia have ever Croatian bands on a terrace
heard of them. But don’t let Nightclubs overlooking Lake Jarun. Green
that put you off. Cafés, bars and pubs all over Gold Club is for serious party
Croatia does have a rich Croatia often put on live music, people – five clubs in one, open
tradition of folk music and these especially at weekends. But if, 24 hours a day, 365 days a year,
bands play all along the Adriatic after a few drinks, you want to with VIP areas often frequented
at summer open-air concerts, party on into the night, then the by local celebrities. Boogaloo
on holiday festivals and even capital or the coast in summer Club, a popular place for young
in hotel lobbies to entertain are the places to be. Entrance people, always tries to be up-
tourists after dinner. prices vary between about 50 to-date in the Croatian and
Unusual instruments to look and 100 kuna and venues open world music scene and hosts
out for are the tamburica, a sort around 10pm, although most international DJs. Močvara, in a
of Turkish mandolin, in Slavonia people arrive fashionably late, disused factory on the banks of
and the citra, a poignant- towards midnight or later. the river Sava, is a trendy place,
sounding type of zither (a Winter closing times are home to gigs, exhibitions and
horizontal stringed instrument). 11pm from Sunday to Thursday performances of an alternative,
You will also come across and midnight on Friday and off-beat kind.
variations on the folk theme, Saturday, but in the summer Palach Youth Cultural Centre,
such as klapa – five- to ten-part clubs go on into the early hours the oldest rock club in Rijeka,
harmony singing, mainly by of the morning. Open-air bars on hosts a range of performances
males – or lively linđo dance the Adriatic coast will serve until by rock and alternative bands
music from the Dubrovnik region 3am; open-air discos stop at 5am. from Rijeka and nearby areas.
accompanied by the lijerica,
which is a three-stringed
instrument. The traditional songs
of the Međimurje in the north
of Croatia are very beautiful.
For a wide range of musical
styles, global, local and avant-
garde, the Aquarius Club in
Zagreb is one of the top places
in Croatia. Otherwise, be sure
not to miss the music and
pyrotechnics of Dubrovnik’s
Summer Festival, held over
five weeks between July and The amphitheatre in Pula, summer venue for spectacular concerts
Cinema
Most large towns in Croatia
have a cinema. Zagreb has
several multiplexes, such as
Cinestar in Avenue Mall and
Branimir Centar and Cineplexx
in City Center One East. Kino-
teka shows cult and art films.
Tickets cost from 20 to 40 kuna
and films are shown in their
original languages with Croatian
subtitles. You can expect to
see the latest Hollywood hits.
Conditions can be more basic
in smaller towns where you
Carpe Diem beach club, Hvar may come across rows of
wooden chairs, rather like being
If you prefer a big, techno party island of Pag, hosts the world’s back at school. Neither will
house teeming with teenagers, leading DJs. Less fashionable things be so luxurious in the
the Colosseum in otherwise but just as much fun is the summer open-air cinemas
staid and stately Opatija is the Faces Club, on the island of Brač, which are more atmospheric:
place to go. near Bol. the films too might not be your
Split boasts several clubs first choice but the experience
with open-air terraces looking is worth trying.
out to sea, the best of which Casinos
are the two-storey O’Hara and As you would expect, the
the palm-filled Tropic Club. The capital Zagreb has the most Spectator Sports
Hemingway Bar offers a wide casinos and as with the rest of Tito’s post-war Yugoslavia,
selection of drinks, especially Croatia they are found in the of which Croatia was a part,
cocktails, good music and more upmarket hotels. (There consistently put out strong
occasional live performances. are “casinos” in lesser hotels teams in handball, football
Rock Club Uljanik has Pula’s but they are usually not worth (soccer), basketball and water
liveliest alternative concerts in visiting.) Try those at the Hotel polo. Since 1991, when Croatia
a vacant building above the International, Hotel Westin broke away to become an
shipyards. Out of town are and the Golden Sun Casino independent nation, this small
Aruba Club, a lounge bar and in the Hotel Antunović. Any country of only 4.5 million
disco, and Summer Club, for casino will have an array of slot people continues to excel in
pop/house partying. machines along with a number those sports and has added
Dubrovnik is diverse in what of card tables where stakes are tennis to its sporting repertoire.
it offers: Culture Club Revelin relatively low. Normally you can If you love tennis then go to
takes over the Revelin fort wear just smart casual clothing www.croatiaopen.hr to find
with high-volume techno; and walk straight in. However, it out the latest news on the ATP
Night Club Fuego is casual, might be worth calling ahead Croatia Open Championships,
relaxed and plays a range of beforehand – the most held at Umag in July.
music; Club Lazareti is popular upmarket casinos may ask to Croats, just like so many other
and holds concerts, parties see your passport before you Europeans, love their football.
and events. can enter. The 1990s saw now legendary
On the islands, Hvar has
become a fashionable centre
for nightlife and developed a
bit of a reputation as a party
island. Early evening activity
centres around Hvar town
harbour, in bar-cum-clubs like
Carpe Diem where the dancers
warm up before heading up
the tree-covered hillside to a
big old Venetian fort that has
been converted into an
amazing venue, with tented
structures hosting plays,
concerts and an open-air
nightclub, Veneranda. Papaya
Club, on Zrće beach on the Hotel Westin in Zagreb, home to a casino
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N C R O AT I A  257
Croatian players like Štimac, been European Club

Boban and Šuker rise as Champions many times –
international stars as Croatia for and Zagreb – with rival
the first time became a serious contenders, Cibona. Those
footballing nation: quarter- familiar with the game
finalists in the 1996 European will know the names of
Championships and, two years the local stars on the
later, third at the World Cup, international scene, such
1998. Although they haven’t as Čosić, Petrović, Kukoč,
scaled those heights since. If you Tabak and Rađa, and that
want to see a game during your Croatia was the third best
stay, try either Dinamo Zagreb at team at the Toronto World
the Maksimir Stadium on the Cup in 1994.
capital’s east side or Hajduk Split If you want to see a
at the Poljud Stadium, Split. basketball game the
Matches are traditionally held on Cibona team in Zagreb,
Sunday afternoons throughout hosts top quality matches
most of the year, with only a short at the Dražen Petrović
holiday break in the summer. Basketball Centre every
Like football, the country’s Saturday evening from
top two basketball teams are October to April – tickets The Cibona basketball team from Zagreb during
in Split – KK Split who have are sold on the door. a match
DIRECTORY
Theatres Nightclubs Močvara Hotel Westin
Trnjanski nasip bb, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1,
Croatian National Aquarius Club Zagreb. Zagreb.
Theatre Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb, Tel (01) 615 96 67. Tel (01) 554 52 71.
Trg Gaje Bulata 1, Split. Jarun, Zagreb. Night Club Fuego
Tel (021) 306 908. Cinema
Tel (01) 364 02 31. Brsalje 8, (near Pile Gate),
Croatian National Dubrovnik.
Aruba Club Cineplexx
Theatre
Šijanska cesta 1, Pula. O’Hara City Center One East,
Široka ulica 8,
Uvala Zenta 3, Split. Slavonaska avenija 11d.
Zadar. Boogaloo Club Tel (095) 504 99 09.
Tel (023) 314 586. Tel (01) 563 24 00.
Ulica grada Vukovara 68, Palach Youth
Croatian National Zagreb. Cinestar Novi Zagreb
Cultural Centre
Theatre Avenue Mall, Avenija
Tel (01) 631 30 22. Kružna 8, Rijeka.
Trg maršala Tita 15, Dubrovnik 16, Zagreb.
Zagreb. Carpe Diem Papaya Club Tel (060) 323 233.
Tel (01) 488 84 15. Riva, Hvar. Zrće Beach, Novalja,
Pag. Cinestar Zagreb
Croatian National Club Lazareti Branimir Centar, Kneza
Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc Rock Club Uljanik
Frana Supila 8, Dubrovnik. Branimira 29, Zagreb.
Dobrilina 2,
Uljarska 1, Rijeka. Tel (060) 323 233.
Colosseum Pula.
Tel (051) 337 114.
Zagrebačko kazalište
Ulica maršala Tita 129, Summer Club Spectator Sports
Opatija. Medulin, Pula.
lutaka Dražen Petrović
Ulica baruna Trenka 3, Culture Club Revelin Tropic Club
Basketball Centre
Zagreb. Bačvice bb, Split.
Svetog Dominika 3, Savska cesta 30,
Tel (01) 48 78445. Tel (099) 203 92 22.
Dubrovnik. Zagreb.
Veneranda Tel (01) 484 33 33.
Music Faces Club On the hill above Riva,
Near Bol, Brač. Hvar town, Hvar. Maksimir Stadium
Dubrovnik Summer
Maksimirska 128,
Festival Green Gold Club
Od Sigurate 1, Dubrovnik
Casinos Zagreb. Tel (01) 238 61 11.
Radnička cesta 52, ∑ gnkdinamo.hr
(ticket office). Hotel Antunović
Zagreb.
Tel (020) 326 123. Zagrebačka avenija 100a, Poljud Stadium
Tel (099) 256 33 23.
Roman Zagreb. Tel (01) 387 05 30. 8 Mediteranskih igara 2,
Amphitheatre Hemingway Bar Hotel International 21000 Split.
Tourist office: Forum 3, 8 Mediteranskih igara 5, Miramarska 24, Zagreb. Tel (021) 585 200
Pula. n (052) 219 197. Split. Tel (099) 211 99 93. Tel (01) 615 00 25. ∑ hajduk.hr
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
One of the keys to Croatia’s tourist success hiking and biking throughout its
is that it is blessed with such bountiful wonderfully diverse topography. There
natural resources – waterfalls, islands, are also less energetic activities to be
hills, rivers, lakes, canyons, mountains, enjoyed. Croatia has several thermal
pine woods and verdant parks – all soaked spa centres that can be a bit utilitarian
in dependable Mediterranean sunshine. but are getting better as retreats for
To its credit, Croatia has responded well by unwinding after some activity. Finally,
providing a good infrastructure backed by of course, the coastline and myriad
a multitude of organizations to get visitors islands have a glittering choice of
climbing and rafting, sailing and surfing, beaches for sunworshippers.
medical assistance and surveill-

ance, cafés, bars and restaurants.
Marinas are classified according
to the level of service they offer
and charge accordingly. The
Adriatic Croatia International
Club, also known as ACI
Marinas, runs a chain of 22
marinas to which you can take
out a yearly contract for use of
all facilities and discounted
berth fees. In addition there are
plenty of temporary moorings
Sailing along the Croatian coast available. Or you could simply
overnight in a deserted bay.
Sailing former requires that you show Another way to experience
The Croatian coastline has many a valid licence with at least the combination of sailing and
natural harbours, ports and 2 years’ experience on it and Croatia’s unique coastline is to
marinas, making it a real haven register the crew. You are then enroll on a special holiday to
for sailors. As a result, the best free to sail off on your own. learn how to sail. Bareboat
way to fully appreciate the “Skippered” means that for Sailing Holidays offers holidays
rugged beauty of Croatia’s about another 130 euros per for sailors of all different levels of
Adriatic coastline is not by car day, plus food, you’ll have a local experience, although there are
but by yacht or motorboat. in charge who knows exactly plenty of other similar companies.
With clean, clear sea, steady, what he or she is doing. Prices Coastal radio stations give
moderate winds, waters in vary depending on the size of weather updates in both
which it is easy to anchor and boat and time of year. The Croatian and English. Useful
well-equipped marinas open British company Nautilus radio stations include Radio
all year round, a sailor’s life is Yachting, for example, will
made easy in Croatia. If possible, arrange a week “bareboat” on an
avoid July to August, unless you 11-metre (36 ft) boat sleeping
really want to spend the time six for around 2,200 euros, while
with every weekend admiral the Croatian company Club
in Europe. May to June or Adriatic has a few 4-berth
September to October are more 10-metre (33 ft) craft for around
peaceful, cost less and what is 1,800 euros, again for seven days.
more the weather is still good. Anyone sailing to Croatia in
The Croatian National Tourist their own boat must report to
Board (www.croatia.hr) lists the nearest Harbour Master’s
over 140 companies with some Office on arrival if it is over
2,700 boats available for hire, 3 m (10 ft) in length and has
typically rented out on a weekly an engine over 4 kW.
basis from 5pm Saturday to From Umag to Dubrovnik,
Saturday next at 9am. The most Croatia has 50 marinas with
important decision for the everything a sailor could want:
holiday maker is whether to go refuelling and repair services, Mooring in the harbour
“bareboat” or “skippered”. The water and electrical hook-ups, at Makarska
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  259
Rijeka UKW channel 24, Radio abound in the Adriatic and are
Split UKW channels 07, 21, 23, useful not only for hiring
81 and Radio Dubrovnik UKW equipment but also for going
channels 07 and 04. on guided tours with English-
speaking instructors.
Areas off-limits to divers are
Windsurfing around military installations,
Most coastal resorts offer protected cultural monuments
windsurfing courses and boards and some, but not all, nature
for hire, but serious surfers will reserves. Diving is forbidden
enjoy two places in particular: in Krka and Brijuni parks for
Bol, on the island of Brač, example but, with a permit, is
and Viganj on the Pelješac allowed in the Kornati National
Peninsular, close to Orebić. Both Park and the islands of Mljet.
resorts have many renowned Check beforehand if you intend
windsurfing clubs, offering kit The clear waters off Croatia, rich in marine to be adventurous.
and courses from beginner to life and coral
expert. Also, note, both places
play annual host to international try Vis – thanks to its military Fishing
championship events in July. background the island was The Adriatic Sea is one of the
The windsurfing season runs never commercially fished and richest in Europe and draws all
from early April to late October consequently has the richest kinds of fishermen. In order to go
and the westerly winds are at marine life. The best underwater fishing you will need a licence.
their peak in the early afternoon. caves are around the beautiful These are issued by tourist
Conditions are ideal in late May/ Kornati Islands, while interesting offices, authorised agencies and
early June and in late July/early shipwrecks can be found near diving centres and clubs which
August – though the latter, of Rovinj (Baron Gautsch,1914 have an arrangement with the
course, is in the high season. passenger ferry), Dubrovnik Ministry of Agriculture and
(Taranto, 1943 merchant ship) Forestry. The cost of a licence is
and the Pelješac Peninsular not terribly great and depends
(S57, another merchant casualty on its duration – you can
of war, from 1944). purchase licences valid for
There are, however, rules and 1 day, 3 days, a week or 30 days.
regulations about who can dive The licences permit fishing
where. To dive at all, you will with a rod and line or a spear
need to show a current diver’s gun and it is possible to fish
card issued by an internationally everywhere except in the
recognized diving organization. protected areas of the marine
For a small fee, this is then given parks (that is, Kornati, the Brijuni
a year-long validation by the islands, Krka and Mljet). Along
Croatian Diving Federation with the licence you will receive
or any of its agents – which a list of the areas which are off-
could be an authorised tourist limits and indications of the
agency or the nearest diving number of each fish species
Windsurfing, a very popular sport along club to your hotel. Diving clubs that you are allowed to catch.
the Croatian coast
Diving
Although Croatia may not be
the Caribbean or the Red Sea, it
nonetheless has its fair share of
interesting dive sites. Nature has
fashioned plenty of underwater
caves from the porous karstic
limestone along the coast, to
which you can add the further
attractions of sea walls and
shoals of fish and, at greater
depths, shipwrecks and corals.
Lošinj Island has all the above
features and is probably the
most comprehensive dive site in
Croatia. If fish are your interest, Locals showing the wide variety of fish and shellfish in the Croatian sea
Hiking National Park, 40 km (19 miles)

Croatia is criss-crossed with northeast of Zadar; Mt Ilija
countless hiking paths and above Orebić for superb
trekking trails – marked by a mountain coastal scenery;
white dot within a red circle the fortified hill-towns of
painted onto a tree or rock. the Istrian interior; Samobor
Contact the Croatian and the Risnjak National Park
Mountaineering Association in central Croatia and the
(HPS) for information about the Zagorje Castles district in
many local walking clubs, maps the northern counties.
and the national whereabouts
of mountain huts for simple
overnight accommodation. Free Climbing
The best time of year for hiking As with hiking, climbing is
is between April and October. also best pursued from April
However, be aware that the to October – after which there’s
removal of unexploded mines the prospect of a sudden
is still taking place in the snowfall or being blasted by
conflict zones of the 1991–95 the bura, a strong cold wind
war, so don’t wander off from the northeast. Croats
established trails. See the may not be thought of as
Croatian Mine Action Centre Alpinists but they have scaled
website (www.hcr.hr) for the Himalayas many times, Abseiling down a rock face in summer
specific information. have their own Croatian
Top trails would have to Mountaineering Association and the beach as well, consider
include the Premužić ridge plenty of home mountain heading for the peaks on
path, heading for 50 km ranges in which to practice the islands of Brač, Vis, Mljet,
(31 miles) at around 914 m their sport. Again, the Paklenica Krk, Hvar, Cres and Lošinj plus
(3,000 ft) through the Velebit National Park is popular, having those on the peninsulars of
massif, a short distance east more than 400 climbing routes both Istria and Pelješac.
of the central Dalmatian coast, to choose from. Cetina Valley
and offering breathtaking views near Omiš in central Dalmatia
both into continental Croatia is another prime destination Cycling
and way out to sea; the gorges for climbers. Should you want Cyclists, like hikers, get the
and beech forests of Paklenica to climb and spend time at full benefit of the outdoor
fragrances, riotous bird-song
and chance encounters with
the locals that their sport brings.
Regional tourist boards in Croatia
have worked hard to promote a
sensible series of designated
bike routes. The national parks
and nature reserves lead the
way with clearly marked bike
trails taking you in a circular tour
back to where you began. The
Plitvice Lakes provide scenic
cycling at its European best.
Similarly circuitous routes exist
on the islands of Rab, Hvar and
Mljet where out-of-the way
beaches and restaurants come
into the picture, too. Istria
tourist board has also been
prominent in looking after
cyclists by running rural trails
out of and back into Rovinj,
Labin and Novigrad. You can
find more details at www.istra.
hr. Hiring bikes can be the best
way to get around the island
and find secluded bays. Expect
to pay around 10–15 euros a
Rock climbers on the famous Anica Luka rock at Paklenica National Park day for bike hire.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  261
DIRECTORY
Sailing
ACI Marinas
M Tita 151, Opatija.
Tel (051) 271 288.
∑ aci.hr
Bareboat Sailing Holidays

∑ bareboatsailing
holidays.com
Club Adriatic
∑ clubadriatic.com
Clay court tennis, a popular sport in Croatia Nautilus Yachting

∑ nautilus.hr
Tennis to you tee-ing off. It’s a good
After football, tennis is Croatia’s idea to check what identifi- Diving
most popular sport. Almost cation you’ll need in advance.
every town, holiday hotel Croatian Diving Federation
and camp site will have the Dalmatinska 12, Zagreb.
necessary facilities – usually Whitewater Rafting
Tel (01) 484 87 65.
plenty of excellent clay courts. This most accessible of the
∑ diving-hrs.hr
Two of the best-equipped clubs extreme sports began in Croatia
are the Tennis Club Pećine in around the late 1980s, opening
Hiking
Rijeka and the Tennis Club up remote canyons and rivers
Smrikve in Pula. If you enjoy known before only to kayakers Croatian Mountaineering
watching tennis, the ATP Croatia and fishermen. The most Association
Open Championships are rewarding places to raft through
Kozarčeva 22, Zagreb.
held at Umag in July. At any wild scenery on waters clear
Tel (01) 482 36 24.
tennis club in Croatia you’re down to the river bed itself –
likely to be reminded of the and innocent of vicious rapids or ∑ hps.hr
achievements of their best- huge waves – are the Dalmatian
known sportsman: Goran rivers of Zrmanja, near Zadar, Whitewater Rafting
Ivanišević, who is perhaps and Cetina, near Omiš, and the
Kompas
most famous internationally rivers Dobra and Kupa, near
for winning the Men’s Singles Karlovac in central Croatia. ∑ kompas.hr
at Wimbledon in 2001. Agencies like Kompas in Zagreb
organise trips with guides and Tennis
all the gear. Otherwise try the
Golf website www.activeholidays-
Tennis Club Pećine
Golf is becoming increasingly croatia.com Šetalište XIII divizije 33, Rijeka.
popular in Croatia. There are Tel (051) 421 782.
five major courses: Golf & Tennis Club Smrikve
Country Club Zagreb, Golf Relaxation
Stinjanska cesta 91, Pula.
Centre Novi Dvori near Several spa resorts offer natural
Zagreb, Golf Adriatic near thermal springs and treatments. Tel (052) 517 011.
Umag and Lifeclass Terme They emphasise the relaxation
Sveti Martin and Golf Brijuni aspect more than the treatment Golf
near Čacovec, as well as but have excellent sporting Golf Adriatic
several smaller locations facilities (see Thermal Spas
Tel (052) 707 100.
with golf facilities. Tour pp216–17).
To play at a Golf Brijuni
Croatian golf Tel (052) 525 883.
club you may need
to show a member- Golf Centre Novi Dvori
ship card issued Tel (01) 334 07 77.
by the national Golf & Country Club Zagreb
federation from
Tel (01) 653 11 77.
your home country.
This will indicate Lifeclass Terme Sveti Martin
your handicap, which Tel (040) 371 111.
may be required prior Golfers on a pratice course
Survival
Guide
Practical Information 264–273

Travel Information 274–281
264  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
In Croatia, tourism is an important source have been rebuilt and modernized,
of revenue (accounting for approximately and road and maritime links have been
15 per cent of the GDP in 2014) and every improved, both internally and with
effort is being made to foster the growth neighbouring countries. The country
and development of the industry. Since has reaffirmed itself as a popular holiday
independence in 1991, a number of destination, able to offer tourist facilities
measures have been taken to encourage of international standard at competitive
visitors, including simplifying border prices. Croatia joined the European Union
formalities and introducing tax reductions in 2013, though many of its pre-existing
on items destined for export. Hotels and regulations and practices already fell
historic buildings damaged in the war in line with EU standards.
relaxation (see pp216–17) with an International Pet Passport as

visits to cities and towns well as all the documents veri-
with their rich historical and fying that their pets’ vaccinations
artistic heritage. are complete and up to date,
Unlike nearby Slovenia, particularly with regard to rabies.
Croatia’s facilities for winter
tourism are not yet well-
developed, although there are a Travel Safety Advice
few ski slopes, such as in Platak, Visitors can get up-to-date travel
the Medvednica and the safety information from the
Bjelolasica mountains. Foreign and Commonwealth
Zagreb, the capital, offers many Office in the UK, the State
attractions and is a great desti- Department in the US and the
nation throughout the year. Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade in Australia.
Visas and Passports
To enter Croatia, visitors need to Customs Information
Tourist asking for help and directions have a valid passport. People There are no restrictions on
from countries in the European personal effects brought into
When to Go Union, the US, Canada, Australia Croatia by travellers and customs
The most popular time to visit and New Zealand do not need a regulations are as for all EU
the Croatian coastline are the visa and may stay for up to 90 member states. It is permitted
summer months of July and days. Croatian authorities have to carry into or out of Croatia,
August. With its crystal clear seas, signed a bilateral agreement with 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars, 1
combined with thousands of EU countries, according to which litre of spirits, 4 litres of wine,
islands and bays for exploring EU citizens need only carry an and 50 millilitres (one bottle)
and swimming, the coast is a identity card to enter Croatia. of perfume or essence.
major attraction. The summer To check if you require a visa, On entering the country,
weather is reliably sunny, another visit the website of the Croatian high-value items such as radio
important aspect for many. Ministry of Foreign and European equipment, computers,
In the peak season, hotels and Affairs (www.mvep.hr). If you photographic equipment, video
resorts are at their busiest, so if a do need one, seek advice from cameras and other recording
quieter holiday is preferred, it the Croatian Embassy in your equipment and portable
would be better to travel during home country. televisions must be declared.
May, June or September, when All foreign citizens must Arrival in the country by boat
the weather is still fine but register with the local police must be reported to the
resorts are not so crowded. within 48 hours of arrival in the Harbour Master’s Office along
Another advantage of travelling country. Failure to do so may with the number of people on
out of peak season are the low result in a fine or even expulsion board and all equipment.
prices. Spring and autumn are from the country. In practice, if Foreign and local currency
the best months for hiking, you are staying in a hotel, the and cheques may be freely
climbing and mountain biking. reception staff will take care of taken in and out of the country
Inland Croatia is home to a this procedure for you. by both foreign and Croatian
number of thermal spas, and it People travelling with pets citizens with foreign residence,
is possible to combine a few must ensure that their pets have but transfers of 10,000 euros or
days of therapeutic treatment or been microchipped and carry more must be declared.
A sweeping Adriatic coastal road, Senj
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  265
Tourist Information the afternoon (when visitors are restaurants, where a service
Every town and city has a tourist most likely to go to the beach) charge is normally included in
office, called Turistički Ured, but open in the evening. the price. When paying in bars
Turistička Zajednica or Turistički or in taxis it is expected that at
Informativni Centar. These state- least the sum will be rounded
run offices provide information Language up. It is also customary to tip
on sightseeing, excursions and Croatia is called Hrvatska in the the tourist or museum guides
transport and will often help national language, Croatian after a tour has ended.
visitors to find accommodation (hrvatski). It is a Slavic language In department stores, super-
in hotels or private rooms (see and is written in the Latin script. markets and shops, the prices
pp222–3). However, in smaller Croatian is not an easy tongue to for goods are fixed. Bargaining,
cities and towns, these offices learn, but since most people in especially aggressive haggling,
are open during summer only. the country have studied at least is not generally part of Croatian
Additionally, there are one other foreign language, street-market culture.
county and regional tourist visitors should be able to make
offices, managed by the themselves understood in most
Ministry of Tourism. circumstances. Italian, German Travellers with
Alternatively, you can contact and English are widely spoken Disabilities
the Croatian National Tourist while French is less common. In Croatia there is a great
Board in your home country Young Croatians generally speak awareness of the problems
before leaving. The Croatian very good English. faced by the disabled parti-
Ministry of Tourism has set up cularly because of the war of
information offices in all major independence which left many
countries to publicize the Etiquette and Smoking people with disabilities. Stations,
attractions Croatia has to offer. Smoking is very common in airports, larger hotels and
The website of the Croatian Croatia (an estimated 30 per restaurants above a certain
National Tourist Board is cent of the population smokes), standard, and the main public
particularly helpful. but is officially banned in all offices in larger towns are
enclosed public spaces, except accessible to those in
for cafés that have approved air wheelchairs. However, facilities
Admission Prices conditioning systems. While at the ports are not so good.
Most state-run museums and most establishments in Zagreb Disabled visitors are entitled
historical sites charge an adhere to this law, it is frequently to a 50 per cent reduction in
entrance fee between 10 kn ignored in the south of the ticket prices at most state-run
and 70 kn. Children are normally country. All the same, in museums. For further inform-
entitled to a 50 per cent summer, you can sit at the ation, contact the Hrvatski
reduction in admission prices. outdoor tables to avoid the savez udruga tjelesnih invalida
Churches are usually free, smoke in closed spaces. (HSUTI), the Croatian organiz-
though if there is an adjoining ation for the disabled, which
bell-tower or treasury, you may has its headquarters in
have to pay to visit them. Taxes and Tipping Zagreb. Also useful is the
The practice of tipping, usually HUPT website, which provides
calculated at 10 per cent, is information on accessible
Opening Hours widespread in Croatia, even in beaches and accommodation.
Public offices open from 8am
to 4pm or 9am to 5pm on
weekdays. While most other
office businesses more or less
follow these standard opening
times, these hours may vary for
other businesses, such as
pharmacies (see pp268–9), banks
(see pp270–71) and post offices
(see pp272–3), the bigger ones
of which are also open on
Saturdays. Shops are usually
open 8am–8pm (see p250), while
cafés tend to open quite early.
Note that many museums
and other cultural attractions
are closed on Mondays. During
summer, most have extended
daily opening hours, and in
coastal resorts, some close in Pedestrians walking on a stone bridge in Ploce Gate, Dubrovnik
Travelling with Children

Tourist complexes such as large
hotels and resorts usually
provide facilities for children,
such as playgrounds, pools and
babysitting services. However,
these may be harder to find
in smaller towns and inland
regions less visited by tourists.
When travelling with Croatia
Airlines on domestic flights,
children under 2 years of age go
free, while those between 2 and
12 years of age get a 50 per cent
discount. Children are also
entitled to a 50 per cent
reduction in tickets prices for A secluded beach on the Dalmatian coast
most state-run museums.
International group (www. a gospođa (a married woman)
hihostels.com) and if you plan to or a gospođica (a young
Gay and Lesbian stay in these it is worth joining single woman).
Travellers and acquiring a membership Greetings vary for the
Homosexuality is still rather card before setting off. different times of the day: dobro
taboo in Croatia. Same-sex An International Student jutro (good morning), dobar dan
couples should refrain from Identity Card (www.isic.org) (good afternoon or good day),
public displays of affection so entitles you to discounts on dobra večer (good evening), laku
as not to cause offence. You travel expenses such as 25 per noć (good night). Bok (hi) and
can find out more at www. cent off train tickets. ciao are informal greetings.
friendlycroatia.com. Doviđenja is commonly used to
say goodbye to people you are
What to Take/Wear not familiar with.
Travelling on a Budget In summer you will need light For polite requests use molim
Low-cost accommodation is cotton clothing with a jacket or (please) and hvala (thank you).
available in most destinations in pullover for the evenings, plus For more vocabulary, see the
the form of youth hostels and swimwear. In winter you will Phrase Book (pp295–6).
private rooms to rent. Decent need woollen jumpers and a
youth hostels can be found in warm coat. Also be sure to pack
the cities of Zagreb, Split, at least one pair of decent Naturism
Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Pula, Zadar walking shoes as some of the Croatia is a popular country for
and Šibenik, as well as on the medieval towns have unevenly naturism, where it is practised
islands of Hvar and Lošinj. Some, paved or cobbled streets. freely at designated places and
but not all, come under the Although it is rarely necessary resorts that are outstanding for
Croatian Youth Hostel to dress in formal clothes, clothes their quality and high standards.
Association (www.hfhs.hr) which are neat and tidy will be Naturism has a very long tradition
umbrella group. Many hostels appreciated. For example, trainers in Croatia. In fact, the first vacation
are part of the Hostelling are not suitable for dining in an resort for naturists was opened
upmarket restaurant. in Rajska plaža (Paradise beach)
Croatia is quite a religious on the island of Rab in 1934.
country, so, when visiting Today there are many nudist
churches, make sure you have beaches that are marked “FKK”
your thighs and shoulders (German for “free body culture”).
covered (that goes for both There are about 20 official
men and women). naturist resorts offering
accommodation along the
Croatian coast (mainly in the
Forms of Greeting form of camping). The majority
Croatians tend to be quite are in Istria and some even have
reserved with strangers. Blue Flag (clean beach) status.
Attempting a few words in These places are appropriately
the local language will be screened, allowing guests to
appreciated. The forms used enjoy the absolute freedom and
vary according to the person peace the surrounding nature
Conventional clothing should be worn you are addressing: he or has to offer. British tour
when visiting churches she may be a gospodin (a man), operators offering naturist
holidays in Croatia include the island of Pag, lavender oil Croatian ethical tour operators
Away with Dune (formerly and dried lavender on the include the Makarska-based
Dune Leisure). island of Hvar, pršut (prosciutto), Biokovo Active Holidays, who
dried figs throughout Dalmatia, organize outdoor adventures
tartufi (truffles) in Istria, and sports, including hiking and
Time wine in all the major wine- mountain biking on Mount
Croatia is one hour ahead of producing regions (you can visit Biokovo and rafting down
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) in vineyards and taste their wine the River Cetina near Omiš,
winter, and two hours ahead before purchasing). and the Dubrovnik-based Adria
in summer. Visitors can take part in Adventure, who specialize in sea
eco-friendly activities such kayaking and hiking holidays.
as hiking, mountain biking, The UK-based ethical tour
Electricity sailing and rafting – a greener operators arranging holidays in
The electric current supplied alternative to fuel-guzzling Croatia include Responsible
is 220V, 50Hz all over the motorboats for example. Travel and Swim Trek.
country. The standard
European two-pin plugs
are used throughout Croatia.
Responsible Tourism
Visitors can support local
communities by shopping for
local seasonal produce at
markets such as the daily covered
markets in Zagreb, Rijeka and
Pula, the vast open-air market in
Split, and many other smaller
markets in towns and villages.
Visitors can buy local special-
ities direct from producers in
various destinations, such as
paški sir (sheep’s cheese) on Trogir market, Dalmatia
DIRECTORY
Embassies and ∑ gov.uk/government/ Tourist Naturism
Consulates world/organisations/ Information
british-embassy-zagreb Away with Dune
American Embassy, ∑ visit-croatia.co.uk Tel 01371 879 686.
Canadian Embassy ∑ awaywithdune
Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona Croatian National
Prilaz Gjure Dezelica 4, co.uk
2, Zagreb. Tel (01) 661 22 Tourist Board
Zagreb. Tel (01 488 12 00.
00. ∑ zagreb. Iblerov trg 10/IV, Zagreb.
Irish Honorary Tel (01) 469 93 33. Responsible
usembassy.gov
∑ croatia.hr
Tourism
Consulate
Australian Embassy Miramarska 23, Zagreb. Adria Adventure
Ministry of Tourism
Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves Tel (01) 631 00 25. ∑ mint.hr.hr Tel (020) 311 545.
11/3rd floor, Zagreb. ∑ kayakingcroatia.
Travel Safety Zagreb Information
Tel (01) 489 12 00. com
Advice ∑ infozagreb.hr
∑ croatia.embassy.
gov.au Australia Travellers with Biokovo Active
Department of Foreign Disabilities Holidays
British Consulate Tel (021) 679 655.
Affairs and Trade
Dubrovnik Hrvatski savez ∑ biokovo.net
∑ dfat.gov.au
Vukovarska 22. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
udruga tjelesnih
invalida Responsible Travel
Tel (020) 324 597.
UK Šoštarićeva 8, Zagreb. Tel (01) 273 823 700. (In
Split
Foreign and Tel (01) 481 20 04. the UK)
Obala Hrvatskog
Commonwealth Office ∑ hsuti.hr ∑ responsibletravel.
Narodnog Preporoda 10/ com
∑ gov.uk/foreign-
III. Tel (00 385) 21 346 007. HUPT (Croatian
travel-advice
Paraplegic & Swim Trek
British Embassy US Tetraplegic Tel (01) 273 739 713. (In
I. Lučića 4, 10000 Zagreb. US Department of State Association) the UK) ∑ swimtrek.
Tel (01) 600 91 00. ∑ travel.state.gov ∑ hupt.hr com
Personal Security and Health main cities while rural towns

and the islands are served
Croatian public health services meet the standards of those by local doctors. People
elsewhere in Europe, and in general, tourists run no serious can be transferred by
health risks. There are no endemic diseases but tourists ambulance or helicopter to
the nearest hospital in case
should take care against insect bites and over-exposure to
of any emergency.
the sun. Tap water is drinkable all over the country. In inland
regions, de-mining along former lines of confrontation is not
complete. Therefore, travellers should not stray from known Lost and Stolen Property
safe routes in these zones. The crime rate is comparatively Precautions for avoiding theft
low, and there is little street crime, although visitors should and loss of documents and
personal belongings are the
take the usual precautions in busy places to protect valuables. same as in any other country,
so use your common sense. You
should avoid leaving objects of
for foreign visitors on holiday in value and money unattended
Croatia unless, of course, the law and keep an eye on your
is broken in some way. However, luggage and bags, particularly
it is advisable to carry your in crowded areas. Do not wear
identification documents, such showy, expensive jewellery that
as a passport, with you as the could attract the wrong kind
police have the right to ask of attention.
for identification. When you travel, it is always a
According to an international good idea to make a photocopy
agreement, if a tourist is held for of your personal documents
questioning or detained for and keep it in a separate place;
whatever reason, he or she has in this way it will be much easier
the right to contact a diplomatic to obtain a duplicate. In the
representative of his or her event of loss, report the
country (an embassy or circumstances to the police
A Croatian policeman with a police car consulate, see p267) and receive as soon as possible.
assistance in appointing a local
Police lawyer, preferably English-
Regular Croatian police (policija) speaking. Hospitals and
officers wear dark blue uniforms Any eventual costs and the Pharmacies
and keep a relatively low-profile lawyer’s fee are the respon- All the main cities have a
presence. In addition, there are sibility of the accused. hospital, and the standard of
the seldom seen Intervention health care is on a par with
Police (who wear blue military- other EU countries. For less
style uniforms) and the Special In an Emergency serious problems, visit a
Police or SWAT (who wear khaki In case of emergencies, the pharmacy (ljekarna), which can
military-style uniforms). If you appropriate services to call be identified by the green cross
are a victim of crime, you are listed in the directory above the door. Croatian
should report this to the local opposite. For accidents or other pharmacists are highly qualified
police station and obtain medical emergencies, go to and can dispense medication
a police statement. casualty (hitna pomoć). There not usually available over the
are general hospitals in all the counter back home. Although
What to Be Aware of
The level of safety on the roads
and in public places is good,
and the police are deemed
responsible for the protection
and safety of the country’s
visitors as well as its citizens.
Croatia has a relatively low
crime rate, and violent crime
is comparatively rare. If a petty
theft occurs, it is more likely to
happen in crowded areas such
as bus and railway stations.
It is highly unlikely that the
police will create any problems An ambulance driving past a hospital
Travel and Health

Insurance
Foreign tourists do not pay for
emergency medical services if
the Health Care Convention has
been signed between Croatia
and the country they come
from. This is the case for all
countries in the European
Union including the UK, Ireland
and Italy, and all EU citizens
should carry a European Health
Insurance Card (EHIC), available
from the UK Department of
Health or from a main post
office. If you come from a
country that has not signed the
People sunbathing on a Dalmatian beach Convention, you must pay for
health services according to a
it is easy to find all the more On the beaches and near standardized price list.
common over-the-counter the coast, the most common It is, however, advisable to take
medicines in pharmacies problem is probably irritating out an insurance policy to cover
without too much difficulty, it insect bites, particularly from medical assistance. The policy
is best to carry an adequate mosquitoes, and it is a good should also include repatriation
supply of any prescription idea to take some anti- by air-ambulance, as well as the
medicines you may need. histamine cream and insect refunding of any medical
Some medicines are not repellent with you. expenses that are necessary.
known by the commercial Tick-borne diseases can be All visitors have a right to
names given to them in their a problem in rural areas in late emergency medical assistance,
country of origin, but by the spring and throughout the but certain medical services
active ingredients contained in summer. Anyone spending a must be paid for.
them. This may cause difficulty lot of time outdoors should take Activities such as diving, rock
for a pharmacist trying to precautions, such as wearing climbing and in some cases,
comply with the request of a long-sleeved tops and using even hiking or motorcycling, are
foreign visitor. In any event, it insect repellent. Seek medical often not included in travel
is useful if you can produce a advice if bitten. insurance cover, as they are
legible prescription written by For hikers and climbers regarded as dangerous activities.
your own doctor as proof that venturing inland, there is the Check the insurance policy
you are authorized to take a possibility of encountering details; it may be necessary to
particular medicine. snakes, so take the appropriate pay a surcharge to cover these
Pharmacies are usually open serum with you if you are kinds of sports.
all day (8am to 8pm) or in the planning such a trip. However,
morning or afternoon, most minor ailments and DIRECTORY
depending on the day. disturbances can usually be
avoided with a little care and Emergency Services
common sense.
Minor Hazards Boat travel is a common
Ambulance
Tel 194.
Most of the problems that means of transport for
visitors suffer from in Croatia connections between the Breakdown Service
are those common to tourists coastal towns and cities (Automobile Club)
anywhere else. and obviously the only means Tel 1987 ∑ hak.hr.
To prevent sunstroke, you of getting to virtually all Fire
should drink lots of liquids and the islands. Unfortunately Tel 193.
avoid strenuous sports or many people suffer from
activities at the hottest time seasickness and people who General Emergency
of the day. Make sure to use are susceptible should take Tel 112.
sunscreen creams with a high some kind of travel sickness pill Information
sun protection factor. before embarking on a sea Tel 18981.
A change in diet can cause journey. It is advisable to keep
stomach upsets, which are to the central areas of the boat Police
often a nuisance but can where any pitching and rolling Tel 192.
usually be treated quickly. is felt less, and to go on deck Rescue at Sea
In Croatia there is no risk of where fresh air and a visible Tel 195.
dysentery or similar illnesses. horizon may help.
Banking and Currency remote villages on the islands.

Not every ATM accepts all forms
The Croatian currency is the kuna, which in May 1994 took of credit and debit cards, so it is
the place of the dinar. It is in fact a very old currency; coins best to check that the logo
displaying the kuna were known to be in use in Slavonia in of the card you want to use is
on the machine (bankomat)
1256. It is not difficult to change money into kuna at bureaux
before making a withdrawal.
de change and banks throughout the country. Visitors need Remember to always shield the
to pay for everything in Croatian kuna, even though hotel ATM machine from strangers
room prices are (confusingly) almost always posted in euros. when feeding your PIN into it.
Although Croatia joined the European Union in 2013, it Check with your bank or credit
will take several years before it officially adopts the euro, card company about what
fees and commissions will be
if indeed it adopts it at all. charged on transactions made
outside your home country.
Banks and Bureaux
de Change Credit and Debit Cards
Money can be changed from The most commonly accepted
one currency to the other in credit cards are MasterCard,
banks and authorized bureaux American Express, Visa and
de change or exchange offices. Diners. Credit cards can be
Banks are usually open from used in almost every shop,
Monday to Friday from 8am to resort, hotel and restaurant.
7pm and on Saturday from 8am Of course, there are always
to 1pm but times can vary, so exceptions, so check the
always check in advance if signs on the door of the
possible. However, in the smaller establishment to see which
towns, some banks may close cards they accept. If there is
in the middle of the day from no sign, ask in advance to avoid
noon to 3pm and on Saturdays unpleasant surprises.
they may shut a little earlier One of the many ATMs found in all main In the event of the loss or
than large, city branches. towns and cities theft of your credit card, it is
Exchange offices have more extremely important to report
flexible timings and are open at stations and ports or along it immediately so that the card
until late in the evening in tourist the roads with people who are can be blocked. This can be
areas. A commission is charged not authorized. Finally, if you
on the exchange, which varies hold on to your original receipts DIRECTORY
from 1 to 1.5 per cent at the you can re-convert any unused
exchange offices. These charges kuna banknotes back to the Banks, Exchange
are lesser or almost non-existent orignal currency at the end of Offices and ATMs
if you change money at a bank. your stay. However, only banks
Zagrebačka banka
You can also change foreign offer this kind of a service.
∑ zaba.hr
currency in post offices and
tourist agencies. If possible, avoid Hrvatska narodna banka
changing money at hotels or ATMs ∑ hnb.hr
camp sites where the exchange Automated Teller Machines
rates are less favourable. Do not (ATMs) are now widespread Lost or Stolen
be tempted to change money throughout the country, even in Credit Cards
American Express
Tel 44 127 369 6933.
∑ americanexpress.com
Diners Club
Tel 44 124 447 0910.
∑ diners.com.hr
Eurocard–MasterCard
Tel 1 636 722 7111 (collect call).
Visa
Tel 0 800 220 111 (wait for the
second dial tone, then enter
866 654 0125).
Hrvatska narodna banka in Zagreb

done by calling the relevant issues banknotes of 1000, 500, quoted in marks. However,
card’s emergency number 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 kuna, the mark was replaced
(which is usually a number featuring Croatian heroes. by the euro in January
providing a 24-hour service, Coins come in denominations 2002 when it became the
seven days a week). Inform of 5, 2 and 1 kuna, and 50, 20, common currency of the
your bank before departure 10, 5, 2 and 1 lipa. The local European Union. The
that you are travelling so that abbreviation for kuna is kn, but government tries to keep
they do not block your card the international abbreviation rates of exchange steady,
due to unusual activity. is HRK. which helps travellers and
The Croatian currency was also helps to present an
formerly closely linked to the overall image of stability to
Currency German mark and until 31 potential foreign investors.
The kuna is divided into 100 December 2001, prices for The euro is now accepted
lipa (the word “lipa” means a accommodation, especially in all banks and bureaux
linden tree). The Central Bank private rooms, were always de change.
Banknotes
The Central Bank issues banknotes of 1000, 500,
200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 kuna. Notes bear the
portraits of famous Croats such as Stjepan
Radić and Josip Jelačić.
20 kuna
50 kuna
100 kuna
200 kuna
Coins
The kuna is divided into 100 lipa. The coin
denominations are 5, 2 and 1 kuna and 50, 20,
10, 5, 2 and 1 lipa. The 20 and 50 lipa coins are
silver-coloured and the 10 and 5 lipa coins are
bronze-coloured.
1 kuna 2 kuna 5 kuna
1 lipa 2 lipa 5 lipa 10 lipa 20 lipa 50 lipa

Communications and Media Keep in mind that it is illegal to

use a mobile phone while you
Croatia has good communication systems and well- are driving.
functioning public services such as the post and tele
communications. The news and information network is Public Telephones
well organized, although most visitors (unless they speak
There are fewer public
Croatian) will face the obvious language barrier. However, telephones in Croatia now,
foreign television programmes can be received via satellite but they do still exist. Pay
and it is also easy to find foreign newspapers and magazines phones in Croatia are operated
with newsagents, although they might be available a little by telephone cards (telefonska
later than they would be at home. Internet use is also kartica) that are available in
units of 15, 30, 50 and 100
widespread in Croatia. (1 unit = 1 kuna) and can be
purchased from tobacconists,
newsagents and news kiosks.
calling from within that area. It is cheaper to call from
There is a list of Croatian area a public phone rather than
codes in the directory on p273. from your hotel, as hotels
Numbers beginning with generally apply a supplement
the code 060 are information to any calls which are made
services. These services can be from their rooms.
dialled up from anywhere
within Croatia, using the
same code. Internet
Internet and email facilities are
widely available in Croatia, and it
Mobile Phones is easy to find Internet cafés with
In Croatia several companies speedy connections in most
offer mobile phone services places, even on the islands.
(GSM network): Tele 2, with the If you want to use a laptop
Public telephone booth in a Dubrovnik code 095; TMobile, with the computer, you will find that
side-street codes 097, 098 and 099; and many hotels and hostels offer
Vipnet, with the codes 091 and free WiFi to their guests. Some
International and Local 092. The HT GSM network cities (such as Rijeka and Osijek)
Telephone Calls covers approximately 98 per also have hotspots with free
Calling Croatia from abroad cent of the country. WiFi in public spaces. Ask at the
is very easy: after dialling the Check with your mobile relevant local tourist offices for
international code (00 world phone service provider before the exact location of these zones.
wide), dial the international you leave to see whether they
country code (385), followed have a roaming agreement with
by the area code without the the Croatian networks. Postal Services
initial zero (Croatia is divided If you expect to be in The Croatian national postal
administratively into counties, Croatia for more than a week, company HP operates a network
each with a corresponding purchasing a local SIM card to of post offices, with branches in
code) and finally the number use in your mobile phone may all towns, and offers a wide
of the subscriber. To telephone be worthwhile. You will need range of services, including the
abroad from Croatia, dial the your phone to be unlocked in sale of stamps and telephone
international code (again 00), order to use the new SIM card. cards, fax facilities and postal
followed by the international
code of the country (for the
UK it is 44), then the area code
(omitting the initial zero) and
finally the subscriber’s number.
The international codes for
other Englishspeaking
countries are as follows: the
US and Canada, 1, Australia,
61, New Zealand, 64 and
Ireland, 353.
When making local calls from
a landline within Croatia, you
need to include the area code
when dialling, unless you are Surfing the net at an Internet café in Dubrovnik
DIRECTORY
Area Codes
Bjelovarsko-Bilogorska: 043
Brodsko-Posavska: 035
Dubrovačko-Neretvanska: 020
Istarska: 052
Krapinsko-Zagorska: 049
Ličko-Senjska: 053
Karlovačka: 047
Koprivničko-Križevačka: 048
Međimurska: 040
Osječko-Baranjska: 031
Typical newspaper kiosk in Valpovo Požeško-Slavonska: 034
services of all kinds. If you are Newspapers and Primorsko-Goranska: 051

sending ordinary post, stamps Magazines Šibensko-Kninska: 022
(marke) can also be bought at The top-selling national daily Sisačko-Moslavačka: 044
newsagents (kiosk). Note that newspapers are 24 Sata, Jutarnji Splitsko-Dalmatinska: 021
unless airmail is specifically List, Večernji List and Slobodna Varaždinska: 042
requested, postcards and letters Dalmacija, all in Croatian.
Virovitičko-Podravska: 033
will be sent overland. British, Italian and German
Letters and cards can be newspapers and magazines Vukovarsko-Srijemska: 032
posted at post offices or the are usually readily available at Zadarska: 023
roadside yellow post boxes. newsstands in all the major Zagreb: 01
The costs vary according to the resorts and cities. Also look Zagrebačka: 01
type of correspondence and out for the very informative
the destination. Post offices are English-language In Your Pocket
Useful Numbers
open 7am–7pm Monday–Friday, bi-monthly guides, available for
and 7am–1pm on Saturday. various destinations including Information for
During summer months, the Split, Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Zadar
International Calls
post offices in the tourist resorts and Zagreb.
extend their opening times Tel 11802.
until 10pm.
Television and Radio International Operator
A practical and straight-
forward way to receive post The main Croatian radio and Tel 901.
while on holiday is to use the television company is Hrvatska Speaking Clock
poste restante service. Any radiotelevizija (HRT). There are
Tel 18095.
correspondence sent to the four national TV channels: HRT1,
following addresses will be held HRT2, HRT3 and HRT4, all of Directory Enquiries
until it is collected by the which broadcast foreign and
in Croatia
addressee. In Zagreb, the domestic programmes. Other
address is Poste Restante, 10000 television stations are RTL, RTL2, Tel 11888.
Zagreb, Croatia and in Split, Doma and Nova TV, as well Weather Forecast and
Poste Restante, Main Post Office, as about 20 private regional
Traffic Conditions
21000 Split, Croatia. channels. Almost all programmes
including films and other foreign Tel (072) 777 777.
productions are broadcast in
their original language, with Post Offices
Croatian subtitles. The radio has
daily news in both English and Dubrovnik
German. Many hotels have Vukovarska 16.
satellite television and hotel Tel (020) 362 068.
guests will have access to a wide
range of European stations. Split
Croatian radio stations broad- Kralja Tomislava 9.
cast in Croatian only, apart from Tel (021) 406 705.
some traffic reports. On the
Second Channel (at RDS-HRT2), Zagreb
reports on news in general Jurišićeva 13.
Entrance to a post office (HP) are given in English, German Tel (072) 303 304.
in Dubrovnik and Italian.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most visitors take a direct flight from their own transport, usually car or
the UK to Zagreb, Split or Dubrovnik motorbike. A great deal has been done
and there are useful internal flights to develop and improve all means of
between the three main airports. During transport and the country now has
the summer months, numerous charter good connections to the rest of Europe
flights operate and the smaller airports and the world. It is also possible to get
in Croatia open. Many tourists visiting the to Croatia by train, for those who prefer
country come from nearby Germany, Italy this form of transport – this is a much
and Austria, which are all well connected slower method, although the network
by road or sea. These visitors often use is being modernized.
Arriving by Air Stansted; and to Split from There are also flights to
The national airline company, Bristol, London Gatwick and Zagreb from Australia and
Croatia Airlines, links Croatia’s Stansted. Jet2.com flies to New Zealand that have
main airports with the rest of Dubrovnik from Belfast, stopovers at major Asian
Europe. The major European Edinburgh, Leeds, Manchester and European airports.
destinations are Amsterdam, and Newcastle; and to Pula and
Athens, Barcelona, Frankfurt, Split from Manchester, Leeds
Berlin, Brussels, Copenhagen, and Edinburgh. Monarch flies Air Fares
London, Munich, Paris, Rome, to Dubrovnik from London The air fares on scheduled
Podgorica, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Gatwick and Birmingham. Wizz flights to Croatia vary
Skopje, Zurich, Sarajevo, Venice Air flies to Split from Luton according to the airline and
and Vienna. airport; and Ryanair flies to the the time of year. Fares tend
Other European airlines cities of Osijek, Pula and Rijeka to be higher in the summer.
offering scheduled services from Stansted, and to Zadar From the UK there are regular
to Croatia include British from Stansted and East scheduled flights from Gatwick
Airways (which operates both Midlands airport. and Heathrow to Zagreb,
a summer and a winter service From Dublin, Aer Lingus with connections to Pula,
between London Gatwick and flies direct to Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik, Rijeka and Split,
Dubrovnik, making Dubrovnik Pula. Since there are no direct as well as direct flights from
a year-round city break flights from the US or Canada Gatwick to Dubrovnik. There
destination), and Star Alliance to Croatia, travellers will need are charter flights to Croatia
members Lufthansa, Austrian to change at one of the main from a wide range of UK
Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Air European hubs such as regional airports during the
France, TAP Portugal, Turkish London, Rome or Frankfurt, summer months (May–
Airlines, SAS Scandinavian and then take a further September). Note that it is
Airlines and Swiss International connecting flight to Croatia. possible to get discounts
Airlines. Flying time from There is a daily flight to Zagreb on ticket prices by booking
London is 2 hours 10 minutes from Rome Fiumicino, for them through price
and from Frankfurt 1 hour example, as well as five flights comparison websites such
30 minutes. The no-frills airline a week to and from Split, and as Kayak, Zugu, Momondo
EasyJet flies to Dubrovnik two flights a week to and and Skyscanner.
from London Gatwick and from Dubrovnik.
Transport from
Airport to Town
Croatia has three main airports.
Zagreb airport is 15 km
(9 miles) from the centre of
the city and is connected by
a bus service to the central bus
station in Držićeva; the journey
takes about 25 minutes and runs
from the city to the airport from
4:30 or 5am to 8pm and in the
opposite direction from 7am to
8pm (or before and after Croatia
Airlines flight departures and
Croatia Airlines plane at Split airport arrivals). The airport at Split is
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  275
24 km (15 miles) from the

centre of the city and is also
connected by a regular bus
service, which runs to the
seafront promenade, in front of
the ferry port. The journey takes
about 30 minutes. Dubrovnik
airport is 22 km (14 miles) from
the city and is connected by a
regular bus service, running to
the main bus station, with a
stop at Pile Gate which is just
outside the fortified Old Town.
The journey time for this service
is about 20 minutes.
Mainline passenger bus, Euroline

Package Deals
A number of tour operators There are rail connections four times a day in the summer
offer package holidays where from Italy too. From Venice, and twice in winter from Trieste
the price includes flights there is a direct sleeper train to Pula in Istria. From Trieste you
(usually charter flights) and daily to Zagreb. There are can also get to Rijeka by coach
accommodation. There are also regular trains to Zagreb from which runs four times a day.
several UK tour operators Belgrade (four a day; 6 hours Eurolines run a service from
offering package holidays such 15 minutes) and Budapest the UK to Croatia. Buses depart
as Light Blue Travel, Balkan (two a day; 6 hours). from London’s Victoria station
Holidays and Thomson The headquarters of the to arrive in Zagreb 32 hours
Holidays. Saga Holidays Croatian Railways (Hrvatske later, with a change in
organizes tours for the 50-plus Željeznice) is in Zagreb. Frankfurt, Germany.
age group. Adriatic Holidays
offer sailing holidays including
7- and 14-day trips along the Arriving by Road
Dalmatian coast, taking in a Travelling to Croatia by car
number of the surrounding (or by motorbike) is popular
islands and Dubrovnik, Split, with tourists coming from
Zadar and Pula. the neighbouring countries.
There are six main border
crossings between Croatia
Arriving by Train Road signage at the Slovenian border and Hungary, 23 frontier points
You can travel from London to between Croatia and Bosnia-
Zagreb by train, via Paris, Milan Arriving by Coach Herzegovina, eight frontier
and Venice – a trip of around Croatia is also accessible to points between Croatia and
30 hours. An alternative route other countries by coach. Serbia and two between
goes via Brussels and Ljubljana International coaches connect Croatia and Montenegro.
in Slovenia. You can also travel Croatia with the bordering Traffic coming overland from
from London to Paris, then take states and also with France, Italy enters Croatia via border
an overnight train from Paris to Switzerland, Germany, Austria, crossings with Slovenia, all
Bologna, followed by a train Slovakia, Bosnia-Herzegovina classified as international and
to the Italian port of Ancona, and Montenegro. open 24 hours a day, all year
from where there are regular From Germany there are round. Rabuiese-Muggia,
overnight ferries to Split. almost daily services from Berlin, towards Savudrija, is the
Rail Europe and eTrains4U Cologne, Dortmund, Frankfurt, crossing point for Istria;
can supply information. Mannheim, Munich and Basovizza-Pesek, for Rijeka and
Connections from other Stuttgart to Zagreb and the Dalmatia; Fernetti-Villa Opicina,
European cities include the coastal cities, covering the for those going towards Zagreb.
Intercity Munich–Zagreb (which stretch from Rijeka to Split. People driving to Croatia
takes 9 hours); the Eurocity Many Italian cities such as need to carry a valid driving
“Mimara”, which covers the Bologna, Florence, Milan, Rome licence, the car’s log book (if
Frankfurt-Munich–Salzburg– and Trieste are also connected appropriate) and a green card.
Ljubljana–Zagreb route (12 to Zagreb by coach. The main For insurance purposes, on
hours), and the Intercity “Croatia” Zagreb bus station is called entering the country, any prior
taking the route Vienna–Maribor– Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb in damage to the car which has
Zagreb (6 hours 30 minutes). the capital. The SAF Autoservizio not yet been repaired must
Vienna–Rijeka takes 8 hours. Friuli Venezia Giulia runs services be declared.
Arriving by Sea
Croatia’s main international
ferry connections are with Italy
via the ports of Ancona, Bari,
Venice and Trieste. The main
Croatian maritime company is
Jadrolinija (see p279) which runs
services between Ancona and
Split (three times a week). The
crossing takes nine hours.
Ancona–Zadar runs three times
a week, an 8-hour journey, and
Bari–Dubrovnik runs three
times a week in winter and
six times a week in summer One of the ships that connect Croatian ports with the rest of the Adriatic
(taking 10 hours by night;
7-and-a-half hours by day for Venezia Lines operate in the Lines also run a fast catamaran
the journey). In peak season Northern Adriatic and link the in the Northern Adriatic,
(mid-July to mid-August) the northern Adriatic coasts of Italy connecting Trieste, Rovinj and
Ancona–Split ferry also makes a and Croatia, though they Pula, from late June to mid-
stop at Stari Grad on the island run in summer only (April– September. The Italian ferry
of Hvar. Blue Line is another September). company SNAV
Croatian company running Regular catamaran runs a fast daily
regular 10-hour ferry services lines run between Croatia Jet
between Ancona and Split, and Venice and the Symbol of the maritime catamaran service
seasonal ferry services between Istrian towns company Jadrolinija between the cities
Ancona and Hvar, and Ancona of Poreč, Rovinj, of Ancona and
and Vis. Ferries are well Pula and Rabac, and also Split from mid-June to late
equipped with restaurants, between Venice and Mali Lošinj September (the journey time
bars and duty free shops. on the island of Lošinj. Trieste being 5 hours).
DIRECTORY
Croatian National Monarch Thomson Holidays eTrains4U
Tourist Board Tel 0333 003 0100 (UK). Tel 020 3451 2688 (UK). Unit 25, Tileyard Studios,
Suite 4C, Elsinore House, ∑ thomson.co.uk Tileyard Road,
∑ monarch.co.uk
77 Fulham Palace Road, London N7 9AH.
London W6 8JA.
Ryanair Arriving by Coach Tel 020 7619 1083 (UK).
Tel 0871 246 0000 (UK). ∑ etrains4u.com
Tel (020) 8563 7979 Dubrovnik bus
(from UK). ∑ ryanair.com station Rail Europe
∑ croatia.hr Wizz Air Tel (060) 305 070 (Cro). 193 Piccadilly, London
∑ libertasdubrovnik.hr W1J 9EU.
Tel 0911 752 2257 (UK).
Arriving by Air Tel 0844 848 4064.
∑ wizzair.com Eurolines ∑ raileurope.co.uk
Aer Lingus Tel 0044 871 781 8178.
Tel 0333 004 5000 (from Package Holidays ∑ eurolines.com Arriving by Sea
UK).
Adriatic Holidays Split bus station Blue Line
∑ aerlingus.com
Tel (060) 327 777 (Cro). Tel (356) 2122 3299.
Tel 01865 339 481 (UK).
British Airways ∑ ak-split.hr ∑ blueline-ferries.com
∑ adriaticholidays.
Tel 0344 493 0787 (UK).
co.uk Trieste bus station SNAV
∑ britishairways.com
Tel 0039 040 425 020. Ancona, Italy.
Croatia Airlines Balkan Holidays ∑ autostazione Tel 0039 071 207 6116.
Tel 0844 371 0310 (UK); Tel 0207 543 5555 (UK). trieste.it ∑ snav.it
(01) 667 65 55 and (072) ∑ balkanholidays. co.uk Trieste Lines
Zagreb bus station
500 505 (in Croatia). Viale Miramarer 9, Trieste,
Light Blue Travel Tel (060) 313 333
∑ croatiaairlines.com Italy.
Tel 01223 568 904 (UK). and (01) 611 278 9 (Cro).
Tel 0039 0923 873 813.
EasyJet ∑ akz.hr
∑ lightbluetravel. ∑ triestelines.it
Tel 0330 365 5000 (UK).
∑ easyjet.com co.uk Arriving by Train Venezia Lines
Trg Matije Gupca 11,
Jet2.com Saga Holidays Croatian Railways Poreč.
Tel 0333 300 0042 (UK). Tel 0800 096 0074 (UK). Tel (060) 333 444 (Cro). Tel (052) 422 896.
∑ jet2.com ∑ travel.saga.co.uk ∑ hzpp.hr ∑ venezialines.com
Getting Around Croatia motorway (autocesta) network

is being extended, necessitating
The transport system within Croatia is reasonably efficient, the building of several
particularly if you are travelling by road or by sea. impressive viaducts and tunnels.
Connections between the mainland and the islands are Croatia’s motorways are now
regarded as among the most
excellent, and thanks to an extensive bus network, even modern and safest in Europe.
smaller, lesser known towns can be easily reached. Although The A1 motorway connecting
using air travel to get around the country is not that common, Zagreb and Ploče is the longest
domestic flights link the major towns. Travelling by train is in Croatia, spanning 480 km
fine only if you have plenty of time as the rail network is (300 miles). There are plans to
small due to the mountainous terrain, and is in need of extend the motorway further
down the coast to Dubrovnik.
modernization. Train travel takes much longer than the On certain stretches of
time it takes to cover the same distance by road. motorway drivers pay a toll
(by either cash or credit card):
Zagreb–Karlovac, Zaprešić,
Domestic Flights Krapina, Varaždin–Goričan,
Croatia Airlines runs regular Zagreb–Oprisavci, Rijeka–
connections between the three Delnice, Zagreb–Split. There
major airports in the country – is also a toll to pay for the
Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik. There bridge to the island of Krk
are also connections between and the Učka Tunnel.
these airports and other secondary
airports, such as the airports at
Osijek, Zadar, Rijeka (on the island Parking
of Krk), Pula and Brač, which is As elsewhere in Europe, car
open only in the summer months. parking is an ever-increasing
problem in most cities. Some
hotels have parking spaces
Biking in the mountainous terrain Travelling by Car reserved for guests. If you are
of Croatia Cars drive on the right in Croatia travelling by car it is worth
and safety belts should be worn checking this in advance.
Green Travel in both the front and back seats. Likewise, in many smaller
In Croatia, when it comes to Children under 12 must sit in coastal towns, the seafront
green travel, the most positive the back. promenades are closed to
moves have been seen in The speed limits are 50 km/h traffic through the summer
Zagreb where, as of 2007, the (30 mph) in towns, 80 km/h (50 season, severely reducing
ZET (Zagreb Municipal Transit mph) outside built-up areas, and parking spaces.
System) started using bio-fuels 130 km/h (80 mph) on the motor- Where indicated, a parking
in public transport vehicles. ways. Cars towing caravans must ticket must be clearly displayed
Zagreb has a taxi company not exceed 80 km/h (50 mph). inside the windscreen. If you
called Eko Taxi that markets Road signs are generally more park in a no-parking area,
itself as “low-emissions”, and or less identical to those found your vehicle can be forcibly
there are now marked cycle in the rest of Europe. removed by officials.
lanes in parts of the city, making Note that it is illegal to drive
it a bicycle-friendly destination. when drunk over the 0.5 per
Cycling in rural areas is cent limit.
growing in popularity, and Service stations are open daily
cycling holidays are now from 7am to 7 or 8pm, but in
available in Istria and parts of summer they are open till
Dalmatia (mountain biking in 10pm. On the main roads in the
the latter case). Hiking is also larger towns and cities and on
popular, with both Croatians major international routes
and foreign visitors. The best service stations are open 24
seasons for hiking are spring hours a day. All the usual petrol
and autumn. Organized hiking types are available: Eurosuper
holidays are also available. 95, Eurosuper 98 and Eurodiesel.
Last but not least, sailing
is one of the most environ-
mentally friendly ways of Roads and Tolls
exploring the Croatian coast, As part of a vast programme of
using the power of wind as improvements to the country’s Town traffic in the charming city
opposed to that of a motor. infrastructure, the national of Osijek
Breakdown Assistance
and Traffic Information
Emergency road services
are provided by the local
Automobile Club, HAK, which
can be reached 24 hours a day
all year round by dialling 1987
(preceded by 003851 for calls
from outside Croatia). The
service provides repairs (a
charge will apply) on the spot
or in a garage (subject to
transport), the removal of
damaged cars and transport up
to 100 km (62 miles) distance.
The HAK also provides useful
information on road and Entrance to the main railway station in Zagreb, Glavni kolodvor
maritime traffic, motorway tolls,
any temporary diversions, the Trains Buses
prices of petrol, ferry times, Although the railway network Buses are a convenient means
possible alternative routes and in Croatia is slowly being of transport. The national bus
general assistance for those modernized, travelling by train is service covers an extensive
travelling by car. Their website not very popular except in the network with numerous
provides useful information area around Zagreb. However, connections and destinations,
and links. all the main Croatian towns and although tickets will be more
cities are linked by rail, with the expensive than on trains.
exception of Dubrovnik, where Suitcases and larger rucksacks
Road Conditions/Hazards there is no railway station at all. will need to go into the luggage
Croatian roads are of a decent The main railway station is in storage compartments below
standard, comparable to those the capital city (Glavni Kolodvor the bus and incur a surcharge.
in most EU countries, while Zagreb). There are trains to Services are divided into
the newly constructed motor- Rijeka with connections to the “intercity” (direct connections
ways are superior to most. Istrian towns; to Split, with a between the larger cities) and
However, the picturesque branch line for Zadar and the regional services (with
Magistrala (coastal highway), Šibenik, serving the Dalmatian connections between the smaller
which runs down the Adriatic coast; to Osijek, to the east and towns and the main cities).
from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, twists Varaždin, to the north. There are daily connections
and turns and can be extremely The following journey times between the towns and cities of
slippery when wet. On the can be expected: 4 hours for Croatia and night buses cover
islands and in rural areas, the Zagreb to Rijeka, 6 hours the longer routes.
roads may be narrow and from Zagreb to Split (or For information, go to the local
poorly surfaced. 8 hours 30 min by night), bus station (autobusni kolodvor)
2 hours for Zagreb–Varaždin, and consult the timetable. Vozi
and 4 hours 30 minutes for svaki dan indicates the daily
Car Hire Zagreb–Osijek. Express services services, while ne vozi nedjeljom ni
Car rental agencies can be operate on some routes. praznikom shows which services
found in all the main towns and Croatian Railways (Hrvatske do not run on Sundays and public
cities, airports and holiday Željeznice) has its main office holidays. The main bus station in
resorts. A valid driving licence is in Zagreb (seep276). Zagreb is the Autobusni
required and the driver must be kolodvor Zagreb in Zagreb the
at least 21 years old. Besides the main station in Split is Autobusni
well-known large multinational kolodvor Split.
rent-a-car companies such as
Avis, Budget and Hertz, there
are many local independent Coach Tours
companies as well. The travel agency Atlas offers a
The larger companies, choice of coach tours, such as
however, offer the option of the 8-day escorted “Highlights
leaving the car in a different of Croatia” which includes
town from the collection point. Dubrovnik, Split, Trogir, Zadar,
Not all rental companies are able Zagreb and Plitvice and the
to offer this flexibility and there 10-day “UNESCO Heritage Sites
is always an extra charge for Travelling by coach to the city and National Parks of Croatia”.
this service. of Dubrovnik Atlas also runs regular 1-day
trips from Dubrovnik to nearby Bribinj and Zaglav, on the island such as Stinica–Mišnjak and
destinations such as Ston and of Dugi Otok and from Biograd Drvenik–Sućuraj, ferries sail non-
Korčula, Mostar (in Bosnia- to Tkon on the island of Pašman. stop so as to cope with the long
Herzegovina) and the River In the district of Šibenik, the queues that tend to form in the
Tara (in Montenegro). town is connected to the middle of the day.
islands of Zlarin and Prvić. For those travelling without
In the Split district there are a car or motorbike, high-speed
Island Ferries connections between Split and catamarans connect Split to the
The majority of ferries and the islands of Brač (Supetar), surrounding islands of Brač,
catamarans connecting the Korčula (Vela Luka), Hvar (to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and Lastovo
mainland and the islands are Starigrad), Šolta (Rogač), Vis (to with the most frequent services
run by the state-owned the port of the same name) and from June to September. The
company, Jadrolinija. These Lastovo (to Ubli). There are also crossing times range from
ferries can transport both connections between Makarska 45 minutes to Hvar to 2 hours
passengers and vehicles. and Sumartin (island of Brač), 30 mins to Lastovo.
The Croatian ferry network is between Ploče and Trpanj on In addition to Jadrolinija,
divided into five districts. In the the Pelješac peninsula, between there are several small
Rijeka district, Cres and Lošinj Orebić and Dominče (on the private companies that operate
are connected to the mainland island of Korčula) and between certain routes. G & V Line runs
by the Valbiska–Merag and Drvenik and Sućuraj (island catamarans from Dubrovnik to
Brestova–Porozina routes. of Hvar). Mljet and from Zadar to several
There is also a ferry running Finally, in the district of small nearby islands. Linijska
from Rijeka to Mali Lošinj, with Dubrovnik, the main connec- nacionalna plovidba runs
stops at Cres, Unije and Susak tion is between Dubrovnik and catamarans from Split to Brač
en route. The island of Rab is the island of Mljet (Sobra), while and Šolta, and from Pula to
connected to the coast by the there are also small ferries Zadar (summer only), as well
Stinica–Mišnjak route and with running between Dubrovnik as ferries from Valbiska (on Krk)
the island of Krk by the Lopar– and the Elaphiti islands of to Lopar (on Rab) and from
Valbiska route. Finally, the island Koločep, Lopud and Šipan. Drvenik (on the mainland)
of Pag is connected to the coast to Dominča (on Korčula).
by the Prizna–Žigljen route, Miatours runs hydrofoils
while Novalja on Pag is Ferry Frequency from Zadar to the nearby
connected to Rijeka with a Ferry services run frequently in islands, while Rapska plovidba
stop at Rab Town en route. the high season (July and runs ferries from Stinica (on
In the district of Zadar, there August), but are significantly the mainland) to Mišnjak
are connections to the cities of reduced outside the summer (on Pag), and from Rab
Preko, on the island of Ugljan, months. On some short routes, Town (on Rab) to Lun (on Pag).
DIRECTORY
Airports Zadar Hertz Ferries
Tel (023) 205 800. Tel (072) 727 277.
Brač ∑ hertz.hr Jadrolinija
∑ zadar-airport.hr
Tel (021) 559 711. Riva 16, Rijeka.
∑ airport-brac.hr Zagreb Buses Tel (051) 666 111.
Tel (060) 320 320. ∑ jadrolinija.hr
Dubrovnik Autobusni kolodvor
∑ zagreb-airport.hr Zagreb
Tel (020) 773 100.
G & V Line
∑ airport-dubrovnik.hr Information
Driving Tel (060) 313 333. Tel (020) 313 119.
Osijek ∑ akz.hr ∑ gv-line.hr
Tel (060) 339 339. HAK
Tel 1987. Tel (072) 777 Autobusni kolodvor Linijska nacionalna
∑ osijek-airport.hr
777 (traffic information).
Split plovidba
Pula Information Tel (021) 352 527.
Tel (060) 308 308. Tel (060) 327 777.
Car Rental ∑ lnp.hr
∑ airport-pula.hr ∑ ak-split.hr
Avis Miatours
Rijeka Coach Tours
Tel (01) 467 36 38. Tel (023) 254 300.
Tel (051) 841 222.
∑ rijeka-airport.hr ∑ avis.com.hr Atlas ∑ miatours.hr
Izidora Kršnjavog 1,
Split Budget Zagreb.
Rapska plovidba
Tel (021) 203 506. Tel (062) 300 331. Tel (01) 241 56 11. Tel (051) 724 122.
∑ split-airport.hr ∑ budget.hr ∑ atlas-croatia.com ∑ rapska-plovidba.hr
Getting Around Zagreb The routes operating during

the day are:
The city of Zagreb has developed a good, efficient transport 1 Zapadni kolodvor–Borongaj;
network which, by means of trams, buses and a funicular 2 Črnomerec–Savišće;
railway connecting the Lower and Upper Towns, ensures 3 Ljubljanica–Žitnjak;
4 Savski most–Dubec;
good connections between all the central and suburban
5 Jarun– Kvaternikov trg;
districts. Trams run at regular intervals and there are some 6 Črnomerec–Sopot;
night services also. Gradec, the Old Town, has many areas 7 Savski most–Dubrava;
which are pedestrianized and closed to ordinary traffic, 8 Mihaljevac– Zapruđe;
making this a pleasant, pollution-free zone to stroll around. 9 Ljubljanica– Borongaj;
There is no underground system in Zagreb. 11 Črnomerec–Dubec;
12 Ljubljanica–Dubrava,
13 Žitnjak– Kvaternikov trg;
It is a good idea to equip 14 Mihaljevac–Zapruđe;
yourself with a map of the city 15 Mihaljevac–Dolje;
before setting off. Maps can be 17 Prečko–Borongaj.
obtained from any tourist All the lines run frequently
office. If you are lost and need during the day with intervals of
assistance, you can always ask 6 to 10 minutes between trams,
the locals for directions. They depending on whether it is a
are generally friendly and weekday or public holiday. On
helpful to tourists, although Sundays and other holidays tram
there may be a barrier to numbers 3 and 8 do not run.
understanding if you are not The four tram lines that run
familiar with the Croatian at night pass every 20 to 40
White façade of St. Catherine’s Church, language; this is where your minutes on these useful routes:
Upper Town, Zagreb map may prove useful. 31 Črnomerec–Savski most;
32 Prečko–Borongaj;
Walking 33 Dolje–Savišće; and
Zagreb is a very large city and Trams 34 Ljubljanica–Dubec.
visitors will need to use some The company that runs the The main hub for tram stops is
form of public transport to get capital’s public transport is the Trg bana Jelačića, where seven
around. However, the best way Zagrebački Električni Tramvaj, different tram routes intersect.
to visit the centre, that is the known as ZET. The network of
areas of Kaptol and Gradec electric trams is efficient, with
(together these are known as frequent services covering a Buses
Gornji Grad or Upper Town), wide area. There is an intricate network of
is to walk there. Walking is A total of 15 tram routes run bus connections with numerous
especially rewarding in the during the day (starting at routes branching out to the
old centre of Zagreb with its around 4am and ending at various termini: Britanski trg,
venerable churches and midnight) and four lines run Jandrićeva, Jankomir, Savski most,
imposing buildings. at night (midnight to 4am). Ljubljanica, trg Mažuranića,
Črnomerec, Mandaličina, Zaprešić,
Kaptol, Petrova, Svetice, Dubrava,
Kvaternikov trg, Glavni kolodvor,
Žitnjak, Sesvete, Borongaj,
Mihaljevac and Velika Gorica.
Tickets
Tickets for trams and buses
can be bought on board all
buses and trams, and from
newsagents or kiosks. The
basic ticket is for a single
journey. It must be punched
in the machine as soon as you
get on board and is valid for
90 minutes from that time.
Tickets cost 10 kuna each. There
is also a one-day ticket that
costs 40 kuna, a good idea if
One of many tram lines serving the entire city you intend to make various trips
during the day (these tickets

are valid until 4am on the
following day). Monthly season
tickets are also available. A useful
website is www.infozagreb.hr.
Travelling without a ticket
is punishable with a fine of
250 kuna.
Funicular Railway
An interesting method of
transport is the uspinjača, a
steep funicular railway that has
been in operation since 1890. At
66 m (216 ft), this is one of the Taxis readily available in all the big cities of Croatia
shortest climbs in the world and
takes a little less than a minute to Taxis
DIRECTORY
climb up from the Lower Town In Zagreb, as in any other large
to the Upper Town, arriving close city, taxis can be found readily. Trams
to the Lotrščak tower. Departures There are several small private
ZET
are from Tomićeva street, right companies, such as Eko Taxi
in the centre, and the cable cars (a fleet of hybrid vehicles); the Tel (01) 365 15 55, (060) 100 001.
leave every 10 minutes from long-established and experi- ∑ zet.hr
6:30am to 10pm (midnight in enced Radio Taxi Zagreb; and
summer). The price of a single Taxi Cammeo, with its smart Taxis
ticket is 4 kuna. uniformed drivers. All of their
Eko Taxi
vehicles are licensed, with
Tel 1414 and (060) 77 77.
meters on board. Taxi fares vary
from company to company, ∑ ekotaxi.hr
but you can expect to pay 10 Radio Taxi Zagreb
kuna as the basic starting rate Tel 1717.
and then 5 kuna for every ∑ radiotaxizagreb.com
kilometre of your journey.
Taxi Cammeo Zagreb
Tel 1212.
Car Rental
∑ taxi-cammeo.hr
In the capital, it is also possible
to rent a car by contacting one Car Rental
of the main car rental companies
such as Budget, Hertz and Avis
Avis. Assistance while you Oreskoviceva 21, Zagreb.
are on the road is provided Tel (01) 467 36 38.
by the Croatian Automobile ∑ avis.com.hr
Club, which can also offer
advice on routes (see pp278–9). Budget
Radnička 45, Zagreb.
Tel (062) 300 331.
Funicular railway connecting the Lower and Cycle Hire/Bike Tours ∑ budget.hr
Upper Towns Being fairly flat and even, Zagreb
Hertz
is a bicycle-friendly city. There
Cable Car is a network of clearly marked Vukotinovićeva 4, Zagreb.
The Žičara is a cable car that bicycle lanes connecting most Tel (072) 727 277.
connects Zagreb with Sljeme, of the main attractions, except ∑ hertz.hr
the highest peak in the Mount for the medieval quarter of
Medvednica range, in a journey Gornji Grad. There are several Bike Tours
time of 20 minutes. The companies offering bikes for
Zagreb by Bike
system has been in operation hire in the city centre, and
since 1963; however; it is some companies, such as Meeting point: Trg bana Josipa
currently closed for renovation Zagreb by Bike, also arrange Jelačića 15 (in the backyard),
as a new cable car is planned. guided tours by bicycle. There Zagreb.
Until this has been completed is a public bike-sharing system Tel (098) 188 33 44.
buses will connect Zagreb as well. Visit www.nextbike.hr ∑ zagrebbybike.com
with Sljeme. for more information.
282  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to B Biševo 13, 129
main entries B&Bs 224 Bishop’s Palace (Križevci) 219
Babino Polje (Mljet) 143 Biskupija 37, 112
A Babonić family 179 Bizovac 187, 200
Abbess Castle (Split) 125 Badija 141 Bjelovar 219
Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 138–9 Bakar 81 Blaca Hermitage (Brač) 127
Adam and Eve (Albertinelli) 171 festivals 29 Blaise, St 148, 151
Admission prices 265 Bale (Valle) 59 Blaise (Blaž) of Trogir 116, 138–9
Ager (Hvar) 131 festivals 30 Blato 140
Aimone of Savoy 44 Baljanska Noć (Bale) 30 Boats
Air travel 274–5, 276, 277, 279 Balka, Miroslav 169 ferries 276, 279
Albert (German painter) 68 Banking 270–71 Kornati Islands 101
Albertinelli, Mariotto Banknotes 271 sailing 258–9, 261
Adam and Eve 171 Bannfy family 209 seasickness 269
Aleši, Andrija 24, 27 Baptistry of St John (Split) 120 Bogdanović, Bogdan 179
Cathedral of St James (Šibenik) Baranja see Slavonia and Baranja Bogišić, Baltazar 153
110, 111 Barban 66 Bogomili 188
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) festivals 30 Bokanić, Trifun 115
114, 115 Barbarian invasions 36 Bol (Brač) 127
Alexander, King 44 Bargaining 265 Boljun 71
Alexander III, Pope 84, 94 Baroque architecture 27 Bollé, Hermann
Alexander the Great 33 Baroque Evenings in Varaždin 30 Cathedral of the Assumption of
Alighieri, Nicolò 159 Bašić, Nikola 96 the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb)
Ambulances 269 Baška 81 158
Amphitheatre (Pula) 51, 64–5, Bassano, Antonio da 56 Church of the Holy Trinity
86–7, 255, 257 Bassano, Leandro da 131, 133, 153 (Križevci) 219
Anastasia, St 96 Bastl, Vjekoslav 167 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 169
Anastasius, St 118, 119 The Bather (Renoir) 166 Museum of Arts and Crafts
Andreotti, Paolo 151 Batina 193 (Zagreb) 166
Andrew II, King of Hungary 39 Batone 34, 35 SS Cyril and Methodius (Zagreb)
Topusko Toplice 178 Battahyany family 218 165
Varaždin 206 Beaches Sanctuary of St Mary of Bistrica
and Zrinski dynasty 181 Brač 126–7, 144–5 (Marija Bistrica) 215
Andrew III, King of Hungary 40 Crikvenica 82 Bombelles, Marko, Count 209
Andrijić, Marko 138 Gradac 135 Bonino of Milan
Angelini, N 177 Jelsa (Hvar) 131 Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 139
Animals, travel documents 264 Lopar 85 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split)
Arch of the Sergians (Pula) 62 Makarska 134 123
Archaeological museums naturism 266–7 Cathedral of St James (Šibenik)
of Istria (Pula) 63 Sunj 153 110
Split 125 Bedekovčina 215 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Zadar 95 Beer 236 152
Zagreb 12, 168–9 Bela III, King 206 St Barbara (Šibenik) 108
Archbishop’s Palace (Zagreb) Bela IV, King 38, 39 St Mark (Korčula) 138
158–9 Jastrebarsko 176 Boschetus, Juan 132
Architecture 26–7 Pag Town 104 Bosnia-Herzegovina 136
Arpad, King 38 Požega 188 Botanical Garden of the Faculty
Arpad dynasty 40 Zagreb 155, 164 of Science (Zagreb) 167
Arsenal (Hvar) 132 Bela Nedeja (Kastav) 31 Botanical gardens see Parks and
Art and artists 24–5 Belec 217 gardens
Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 168 Bellini, Gentile 115, 116 Botticelli, Sandro 171
Atelier Kožarić 169 Bellini, Giovanni Božidarević, Nikola 32, 153
ATMs (Automated Teller Machines) St Augustine and St Benedict 171 Brač 13, 126–7, 140, 144–5
270 Benetović, Martin 133 airport 279
Attila 178 Berislavić-Grabarski counts 189 hotels 228
Augustinčić, Antun 24 Bernard, Ban of Croatia 181 map 126
Antun Augustinčić Gallery Bernardino of Parma 137 restaurants 240–41
(Klanjec) 215 Bicycles 260, 277, 281 Braće Radić Square (Split) 124
birthplace 215 Big Fountain of Onofrio (Dubrovnik) Branimir, Duke 26, 38
Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 149 Branislav Dešković Gallery (Brač)
169 Big Lake (Veliko Jezero, Mljet) 127
Modesty 159 142 Brass Gate (Split) 120–21
monument to Tito 214 Bilje 193 Breakdown services 269, 278,
World War II monument (Batina) hotels 231 279
193 Birds Bribir counts 39
Augustus, Emperor 34, 35, 178 Kopački Rit Nature Park 49, Brijuni National Park 23, 60–61
Aurelian, Emperor 34, 35 198–9 Brlić-Mažuranić, Ivana 189
Autumn in Croatia 30–31 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 180 Brođanci 200
Avars 36 Plitvice Lakes National Park 88 festivals 30
GENERAL INDEX  283
Brodski Stupnik Castles and fortifications (cont.) Churches (cont.)

restaurants 247 Ozalj 177 Church of the Assumption of Mary
Brodsko Kolo (Slavonski Brod) 28–9 Pula 62–3 (Omišalj) 81
Bučevski, Epaminondas 165 Ružica grad (Orahovica) 187, 201 Church of the Holy Cross (Križevci)
Budget travel 266 Seven Castles (Split) 125 219
Budislavić, Ivan 115 Šibenik 109 Church of the Holy Cross (Osijek)
Budrišić, Magdalena 85 Ston 137 194, 197
Buffalini, Andrea 151 Trakošćan 210–11, 212–13 Church of the Holy Cross, of St
Buie see Buje Trsat Castle (Rijeka) 73 Anselm and of St Ambrose (Nin)
Building of the Guard (Osijek) 196 Varaždin 205, 206 26, 102
Buje (Buie) 54 Veliki Tabor 214 Church of the Most Holy
festivals 30 Castropola family 66 Redeemer (Otavice) 112
Bukovac, Vlaho 125, 153, 166 Cathedral Treasury (Dubrovnik) 146, Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 29, 48,
Gundulić Imagining Osman 168 151 56–7, 78–9
Bulgars 36 Cathedrals Holy Trinity (Karlovac) 177
Bulić, Frane 118 Cathedral of the Assumption Holy Trinity (Varaždin) 207
Bunić, Župan 137 (Varaždin) 206 Immaculate Conception (Nova
Bureaux de change 270 Cathedral of the Assumption of Gradiška) 188
Buses 278, 279 the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb) Madonna of Jerusalem (Trški Vrh)
in Zagreb 280–81 12, 158 211
Bust of a Woman (Meštrović) 190 Dubrovnik 12, 151 Our Lady of Snow (Cavtat) 153
Buvina, Andrija 24 Pula 62 St Anastasia (Samobor) 176
Buzet 70 St Anastasia (Zadar) 26, 92, 96 St Barbara (Šibenik) 108
hotels 226 St Anselm (Nin) 102 St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 12, 146, 151
restaurants 238 St Domnius (Split) 123 St Blaise (Vodnjan) 59
Byzantium 36–7, 38, 51 St James (Šibenik) 27, 110–11 St Catherine (Zagreb) 161, 165
St Lawrence (Trogir) 114–15 St Chrysogonus (Zadar) 94–5
C St Mark (Korčula) 26, 138 SS Cyril and Methodius (Zagreb)
Cable cars St Mary (Rab) 52, 84 160, 165
Dubrovnik 12, 152 St Peter (Đakovo) 190 St Dominic (Split) 120
Zagreb 281 St Stephen (Hvar) 132 St Dominic (Trogir) 117
Čađavica 200 St Vitus (Rijeka) 72 St Donat (Zadar) 97
Caesar, Julius 34 see also Churches St Francis (Požega) 184
Čakovec 208–9 Cava, Onofrio de la 149, 151 St Francis (Pula) 62
festivals 28 Caves St Francis (Rab) 85
restaurants 248 Paklenica National Park 103 St Francis (Šibenik) 108
Callido, Gaetano 54 Vis 129 St Francis (Split) 124
Camping sites 224, 225 Cavtat 153 St Francis (Zagreb) 159
Capogrosso-Kavanjin family 124 hotels 228 St George (Lovran) 68, 69
Caporali, Bartolomeo restaurants 241 St Helen (Čakovec) 208–9
Virgin with Child and St Francis Cebej, Anton 189 St Ivan Kapistran (Ilok) 191
and St Bernard 170 Celje, Count of 210 St James (Osijek) 195
Carnival (Lastovo) 31 Celts 33 St Jerome (Štrigova) 209
Carnival of Rijeka 31 Cemeteries St John the Baptist (Trogir) 116
Carnival of the Riviera (Opatija) 31 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) St John the Baptist (Varaždin) 206–7
Carpaccio, Vittore 95, 139 13, 169 St Mark (Hvar Town) 133
St Sebastian 171 Central Croatia 173–81 St Mark (Zagreb) 12, 154, 161, 164
Cars food and drink235 St Mary (Lepoglava) 210
breakdown services 269, hotels 231 St Mary (Zadar) 95
278, 279 map 174–5 St Mary (Zagreb) 159
car rental 278, 279, 281 restaurants 247 St Mary of the Snows (Belec) 217
driving around Croatia 277–8 Cetina Valley Nature Park 134 St Michael (Osijek) 194, 196
driving to Croatia 275 Chaky, Demetrius, Count 208 St Nicholas (Barban) 66
road conditions and hazards 278 Charlemagne, Emperor 37 St Nicholas (Nin) 102
see also Tours by car Charles Robert, King of Hungary 40 St Nicholas (Pula) 62
Casinos 256, 257 Charles VI, Emperor 72, 81 St Nicholas (Rijeka) 72
Castles and fortifications Charles, Archduke of Austria 105, St Nicholas (Trogir) 117
Bedekovčina 215 177 SS Peter and Paul (Osijek) 195
Čakovec 208 Children 266 St Simeon (Zadar) 94
Dubrovnik 148–9 Christopher, St 84, 85 St Theresa (Požega) 189
Đurđevac 219 Churches St Vincent (Svetvinčenat) 66
Fort of Knin 112 Capuchin Church of Our Lady of Sanctuary of St Mary of Bistrica
Fortress (Sisak) 178 Lourdes (Rijeka) 72 (Marija Bistrica) 202, 215
Frankopan Castle (Novi Vinodolski) Chapel of St Anthony of Padua Sanctuary of the Trinity (Ludberg)
82 (Rab) 85 218
Gorica 214 Chapel of St Mary of Formosa Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat (Rijeka)
Kamerlengo Castle (Trogir) 117 (Pula) 62 73
Kamičak Fort (Sinj) 113 Church of the Assumption (Rijeka) see also Cathedrals; Monasteries
Miljana 214 72 and convents
Čigoć D Donji Miholjac 200

hotels 231 Đakovo 190 Donner, George Raphael 139
restaurants 247 festivals 21, 29 Dora Pejačević Memorial (Našice)
Čikola, River 107, 112 restaurants 247 28
Cinema 256, 257 Đakovski Vezovi (Đakovo) Draguć 70
Čipiko Palace (Trogir) 116 29 Drašković, Janko 42
Citadel (Hvar) 132 Dalle Masegne, Antonio 110 Drašković, Juraj 211
Cittanova see Novigrad Dalmatia 19, 91–53 Drava, River 23, 186, 194, 197, 198
City Tower (Rijeka) 72 food and drink 234–5 Drinking customs 237
Civic Museums see Museums and history 39, 41,42, 44, 91 Drniš 112
galleries hotels 228–30 Duboković, Nika 131
Claudius, Emperor 64 Kornati National Park Dubrovnik 13, 15, 49, 90, 146–52
Claudius II, Emperor 34 100–1 airport 275, 279
Climate 28–31, 264 Krka National Park 106–7 festivals 31
Climbing 260 map 92–3 history 40, 45
Clothes 266 Mljet National Park 142–3 hotels 228
ties 252–3 restaurants 240–45 map 149
Coach travel 275, 276, 278–9 stone 140 restaurants 241–2
Coffee 236 Ten Days on the Dalmatian Islands Street-by-Street map 146–7
Coins 271 13 Summer Festival 29, 255, 257
Communications 272–3 vineyards 135 Two Days in Dubrovnik 12
Communist Party 44–5 Zadar Archipelago 98–9 Dubrovnik Cable Car 12, 152
Constantine Porphyrogenitus, Dalmatinac, Juraj (Giorgio Orsini) “Dubrovnik School” 152
Emperor 146 24, 27, 125, 140 Dugi Otok 98
Constantius, Emperor 122 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split) hotels 228
Consulates 267 123 restaurants 242
Contarini, G 59 Cathedral of St James (Šibenik) Dujam, Count of Krk 181
Contieri, Jacopo 68 110, 111 Dujšin, Dubravko 162
Convents see Monasteries and Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 148 Dujšin-Ribar, Cata 162
convents Pag Town 105 Duknović, Ivan 115
Count’s Palace (Šibenik) 108 Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) 151 Dulčić, Ivo 159
Crafts 251–2 Šibenik 108–9 Đurđevac 219
Credit and debit cards 270–71 Stafileo Palace (Trogir) 114 Dürer, Albrecht 158
in restaurants 233 Ston 137 Duty-free allowances 264
in shops 250 Dance 254 Dvigrad (Duecastelli) 66
Cres 74 Dance of Death (Vincent od Kastav)
hotels 226 25 E
restaurants 238 Dance Week (Zagreb) 28 Easter 28
Crikvenica 82 Dante Alighieri 66, 159 Economy 20
hotels 226 Danube, River 23, 186, 191, Elaphite Islands 12, 152–3
Crime 268 192, 193 Electricity 267
Crkvine 135 Kopački Rit Nature Park 198 Eleuterius, St 56
Croatian History Museum (Zagreb) Darda 193 Eltz family 192
160, 164 Daruvar 188 Email 272
Croatian Museum of Naive Art hotels 231 Embassies 267
(Zagreb) 160, 165 restaurants 247 Embroidery 251
Croatian National Theatre (Osijek) Days of Hvar Theatre (Hvar) 28 Bizovac 200
195 Dell’Allio, Domenico 206 Đakovo 29, 190
Croatian National Theatre (Split) Department stores 251 Emergencies 268, 269
254, 257 Desa, Duke 142 Entertainment 254–7
Croatian National Theatre (Zadar) Dešković, Branislav 168 Entomological Museum (Varaždin)
254, 257 Dialling codes 272, 273 207
Croatian National Theatre (Zagreb) Dignano see Vodnjan Erdödy, Karl, Count 180
12, 166, 254, 257 Diocletian, Emperor 34, 35 Erdödy family 176, 206, 215
Croatian National Theatre Ivan pl. Palace of Diocletian (Split) 49, Erdut 192
Zajc (Rijeka) 254, 257 122–3 Erdut Agreement (1995) 45,
Croatian National Tourist Board portrait of 123 192
265, 267, 276 Salona 118, 119 Ernestinovo 193
Croatian Natural History Museum Dionysios of Syracuse 33, 128 Esterházy family 193
(Zagreb) 160, 162 Disabled travellers 265, 267 Ethnographic museums
Croatian One-Minute Film Festival in hotels 224 of Istria (Pazin) 67
(Požega) 28 Distant Accords (Meštrović) 124 Mošćenice 68
Croatian Wine Exhibition (Kutjevo) 28 Diving 259, 261 Split 120–21
Croats 37, 38 Dobričević, Lovro 25 Staro Selo (Kumrovec) 214-15
Čulinović, Juraj 98 Doctors 268–9 Zagreb 167
Currency 271 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 12, Županja 190–91
Cussa, Michele 177 155, 159 Etiquette 265, 266
Customs and etiquette 266 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik) Eugene, Prince of Savoy
Customs information 264 12, 147, 152 193
Cuvaj, Slavko 43 Domnius, St 118, 123, 125 Euphemia, St 58
Cycling 260, 277, 281 Donat, Bishop 97 Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 26, 48,
Cyril, St 37, 71 Donegani, Ignazio 190 56–7, 78–9
Euphrasius, Bishop 56, 57 Frankopan, Franjo Krsto 41, 158, H

Europe Avenue (Osijek) 194 181, 208 Habsburg empire 19, 41, 42–3,
European Union 45, 148 Frankopan, Krsto 181 51
Exchange offices 270 Frankopan, Martin 73 Hauser, Eduard 195
Frankopan, Nikola 82 Hayez, Francesco 75
F Frankopan family 41, 181 Headquarters of Slavonia (Osijek)
Fažana (Fasana) 59 Bakar 81 197
Feast of St Blaise (Dubrovnik) Kraljevica 81 Health 268–9
21, 31 Krk 80 Hegedušić, Krsto 25, 218
Felbinger, Bartol 160, 165 Novi Vinodolski 82 Heinz, Antun 167
Fellner, Ferdinand 166, 168 Ogulin 178 Hektorović, Petar 130, 131
Ferdinand, Archduke 41 Okić 176 Hektorović Palace (Hvar) 132
Ferdinand, Emperor 208 Ozalj 177 Helen, St 127
Ferdinand of Habsburg 72 Rijeka 73 Helmer, Hermann 166, 168, 207
Fernkorn, Anton Dominik 159 Senj 83 Heraclius, Emperor 37
Ferramolino, Antonio 148 Franks 37 Hercer Palace (Varaždin) 207
Ferries 276, 279 Franz Ferdinand, Archduke 43 Hiking 260, 261
Festival of the Bumbari (Vodnjan) Franz Joseph, Emperor 43, 69, 178 Hilleprand Prandau family 200
21, 30 Fruit juices 237 History 33–45
Festival of Croatian Tambour Music Funicular railway, Zagreb 281 History of Croatia (Meštrović)
(Osijek) 28 163
Festival of the Golden Strings of G Hlebine Gallery 205, 218
Slavonia (Požega) 30 Gaj, Ljudevit 42, 211 Hlebine school 25, 165, 218
Festival Klapa (Omiš) 29 Galerius, Emperor 122 Holidays, public 31
Festival of Satire (Zagreb) 28 Galeta, Ivan Ladislav 169 Höller, Carsten 169
Festivals 28–31 Galleries see Museums and galleries Holy League 41
Korčula 139 Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) Hospitals 268–9
Filipović, Antun 169 12–13, 170–71 Hostels 224, 225
Filipović, Franjo 25 Gardens see Parks and gardens Hotels 222–31
Film see Cinema Garić 180 bookings 224
Filotas 122, 123 Gate of Hercules (Pula) 63 Central Croatia 231
Fiore, Jacobello del 81 Gay and lesbian travellers 266 Dalmatia 228–30
Fire services 269 Gaži, Dragan 25 disabled travellers 224
Firentinac, Nikola 24, 27 Gena, Boris Burić 117 grading 223
Cathedral of St James (Šibenik) Generalić, Ivan 25, 165 Istria and Kvarner area
110, 111 Woodcutters 25 226–8
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) Generalić, Josip 25 Northern Counties 231
115 George, Prince of Brandenburg prices 222
Church of St Dominic (Trogir) 206 Slavonia and Baranja 231
117 Giovanni da Udine 158 Zagreb 230–31
Franciscan Monastery (Orebić) Glagolitic Alley, document trail 71 Hrvatska Kostajnica 179
137 Gojković, Matej 115 Hum 70
Loggia (Trogir) 116 Golden Gate (Split) 120 restaurants 238
Our Lady of Charity (Hvar) 133 Golf 261 Hum, Mount (Vis) 129
St John the Baptist (Trogir) 116 Gora 178–9 Hungarians 38, 39, 40
Fish Market (Trogir) 117 Görner, Josip 180 Hvar 13, 15, 130–33
Fishing 259 Gorup family 214 festivals 28, 29
Food and drink Gothic architecture 26 hotels 228–9
The Flavours of Croatia 234–5 Goths 36 map 130–31
picnics and self-catering 233 Gotovac, Tomislav 169 restaurants 242
shopping 253 Grabar-Kitarovic, Kolinda 45 Hvar Town (Hvar) 10, 132–3
What to Drink 236–7 Graberje Ivanićko map 133
see also Restaurants restaurants 247
The Fort (Tvrđa, Osijek) 49, 194 Gračišće 67 I
Street-by-Street map 196–7 Gradac 135 Ibrišimović, Luka 189
Fort of St John (Dubrovnik) Granicije, Gabrijel 188 Icon Collection (Korčula) 139
147, 149 Grape Festival (Buje) 30 Illness 268–9
Fort of St John (Šibenik) 109 Green travel 277 Illyrian Movement 42
Fort of St Michael (Šibenik) 109 Greeting to the Sun (Zadar) 96 Illyrians 33, 34
Fort of St Nicholas (Šibenik) 109 Greetings 266 Ilok 191
Forum (Zadar) 96 Gregory, Bishop of Nin 102, 207 hotels 231
Francis I, Emperor 194 Gregory VII, Pope 38, 39 restaurants 248
Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik) Grimani family 66 Ilovik 75
150 Grisignana see Grožnjan Ingoli, Matteo 134
Frangeš-Mihanović, Robert 27 Groppelli, Marino 146 Innocent XI, Pope 41
Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 168 Gros, Antoine Jean Insurance, health 269
Mihanović monument (Klanjec) Madame Recamier 170 International Children’s Festival
215 Grožnjan (Grisignana) 54 (Šibenik) 29
Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 169 Gučetić, Ivan 152 International Doll Festival (Zagreb)
war memorial (Osijek) 194 Guides, tipping 265 30
Frangipane, Mario 181 Gundulić Imagining Osman International Festival of Theatre
Frankopan, Catherine 209 (Bukovac) 168 (Pula) 29
International Folklore Festival K Krapje

(Zagreb) 29 Kačić Miošić, Andrija 127, 135 hotels 231
International Jazz Festival (Grožnjan) Kamerlengo Castle (Trogir) Kristofor, Bishop 82
29 117 Križ 180
International Small Scene Theatre Kampor 85 Križevci 219
Festival (Rijeka) 28 Kanižlić, Antun 189 Krk 80–81
International Tennis Tournament Kapistran, Ivan, St191 hotels 226
(Umag) 29 Karađorđević dynasty 44 map 80
International Violin Competition Karlobag 105 restaurants 238
(Zagreb) 31 Karlovac 177 Krk Summer Events29
Internet 272 hotels 231 Krka National Park 15, 23, 106–7
Iron Gate (Split) 121 restaurants 247 map 106–7
Islands Karst sinkholes 77 Krleža, Bela 162
Badija 141 Kastav 69 Krleža, Miroslav 162
Biševo 129 festivals 31 Kršinić, Frano 168
Brač 126–7 restaurants 238 Kumrovec 214–15
Brijuni National Park 60–61 Keglević family 214, 217 restaurants 249
Cres 74 Kerdić, Ivan 159, 169 Kupa River 23, 177
Elaphite Islands 152–3 Kerempuh, Petrica 159 Kupelwieser, Paul 60
ferries 279 Kingdom of the Illyrian Provinces Kutina 180
Hvar 130–33 42 Kutjevo 189
Korčula 138–40 Klanjec 215 festivals 28
Krk 80–81 Klis 113 restaurants 248
Lastovo 141 Kljaković, Jozo 112, 164, 169 Kvarner see Istria and the
Lokrum 152 Klostar Ivanić 180 Kvarner area
Lošinj 75 Klović, Julije 25
Mljet 142–3 Klovićevi Dvori (Zagreb) 161 L
Pag 104–5 Knežević family 209 Labin 67
Pakleni Islands 133 Knights Templar festivals 29
Rab 84–5 Castrum Ljubae (Ljuba) 102 Lace 251–2
Šolta 126 Kriz 180 Hvar Town 132
Vis 128–9 Našice 201 Lace Exhibition (Lepoglava)
Zadar Archipelago 98–101 Požega 188 30, 210
Istria and Kvarner area 51–89 Senj 82 Pag 105 Lacković, Stjepan 219
Brijuni National Park 60–61 Knin 112 Ladislaus, King of Hungary 38, 39,
food and drink 234 Koločep 152–3 158
history 39, 42 Koloman, King 19, 38, 39, 85, Ladislaus of Anjou, King of Hungary
hotels 226–8 95, 185 41, 94
map 52–3 Komiža (Vis) 129 Land Gate (Trogir) 114
Plitvice Lakes National Park Konavle 153 Land Gate and Walls (Zadar) 94
88–9 Königer, Aleksije 210 Landscape 22–3
restaurants 238–40 Kont, Nikola 191 Langenberg, Franz 195
Risnjak National Park 76–7 Kopački Rit Nature Park 23, 49, Language 21, 265
Tour of the Fortified Towns 198–9 phrase book 295–6
70–71 restaurants 248 Lastovo 141
Ivanić-Grad 180 Koprivnica 218 festivals 31
Iveković, Oton 167, 189 restaurants 249 Lavsa 101
Iveković, Sanja 169 Korana, River 88, 177 Lenković, Ivan 83
Korčula 10, 13, 15, 138–40 Lenuci, Milan 166, 167
J festivals 21, 28, 29, 30, 139 Leo X, Pope 83, 218
Jablanac 83 hotels 229 Leopold I, Emperor 72, 181
Jacub, Pasha 40 map 138–9 Lepoglava 210
Janković, Antun 188 restaurants 242 festivals 30
Jasenovac 179 Kornat 101 Lerchinger, Anton 211
Jastrebarsko 174, 176–7 Kornati National Park 23, 48, Lerman, Dragutin 167
restaurants 247 100–1 Lesbian travellers 266
Jelačić, Josip 42–3 map 100–1 Leska trail (Risnjak National Park)
Jelena, Queen 124 Košćec, Franjo 207 76–7
Jelovšek, Franc 165 Košćec, Ružica 207 Levrnaka 101
St Anastasia (Samobor) 176 Košljun 81 Lighthouses, accommodation in
Jelovšek, Kristof Andrej 165 Kovačić, Mijo 165 224–5
Jelsa (Hvar) 131 Kovačić, Viktor 162 Limski Channel 58
Jerome, St 209 Koversada 58 restaurants 238
Jewellery 252 Kraljevic, Miroslav 168 Lipik 188
JNA (Yugoslav People’s Army) 45, 192 Kraljevica 81 festivals 31
John of Trogir, Blessed 114 festivals 31 Lippi, Filippo 171
John Corvinus, King 201 Krapina 33, 211 Ljubač 102
Josip Štolcer Slavenski Memorial festivals 30 Ljudevit, Prince 178
(Čakovec) 28 restaurants 249 Loggia (Rab) 84
Josipović, Ivo 45 Krapinske Toplice 216 Loggia and Clock Tower (Trogir)
Joyce, James 62 hotels 231 116
Junčić, Matej 153 restaurants 249 Lokrum 12, 152
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 23, 173, Maps (cont.) Meštrović, Ivan (cont.)
180, 182–3 Split 121 Meštrović Gallery (Split) 124
Lopar 85 Thermal Spas tour 216–17 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 169
Lopud 153 Trogir 115 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168
Loredan family 66 Varaždin 207 Monument of Bishop Gregory of Nin
Lošinj (Lussino) 75 Vis 128 207
hotels 226 Zadar 95 monument to Andrija Medulić
restaurants 238 Zagreb 156–7 168
Lost property 268 Zagreb: Upper Town 160–61 monument to Marko Marulić
Lotto, Lorenzo 125 Marcello, Niccolò, Count 108 (Split) 124
Louis I, King of Hungary 40 Marchiori, Giovanni 54 Mother and Child 163
Louis II, King of Hungary 40 Maria Anna, Empress 69 National Art Gallery (Split) 125
Louise of Aragon 181 Maria Banac (Meštrović) 24 Račić Mausoleum (Cavtat) 153
Lovran 68–9 Maria Theresa, Empress 219 Resurrection of Lazarus 163
festivals 31 Marija Bistrica 202, 204, 215 St Mark (Korčula) 138
hotels 226 restaurants 249 St Mark (Zagreb) 164
restaurants 238 Marina 113 statue of Gregory of Nin (Nin) 102
Lubinsky, Rudolf 27 Marjan Peninsula 125 statue of St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 148
Lucić, Hanibal 133 Markets 250–51 tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac
Ludbreg 218 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 12, 155, 158
Lukačić, Ivan 124 159 The Well of Life 166
Luke, St 73 Marmont, General 42, 64 Woman by the Sea 163
Lumbarda 140 Martinov, Peter 151 Methodius, St 37, 71
Lussino see Lošinj Marulić, Marko 40, 124 Metković
Marun, Lujo 163 hotels 229
M Marunada (Lovran) 31 restaurants 243
Madame Recamier (Gros) 170 Mary with Child (Meštrović) 164 Metzinger, Valentin 67, 176, 177
Magaš, Boris 125 Maslinica (Šolta) 126 Michelozzi, Michelozzo
Magazines 273 Maso di Bartolomeo 152 Bokar Fort (Dubrovnik) 149
Majláth Manor (Donji Miholjac) 200 Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 148
Makarska 134–5 40 Ston 137
hotels 229 Opuzen 136 Walls (Dubrovnik) 148
restaurants 243 Štrigova 209 Mihanović, Antun
Maksimir Park (Zagreb) 13, 169 Veliki Tabor 214 monuments to (Klanjec) 215
Mali Brijun 60, 61 Mauro (sculptor) 115 Milano, Francesco da 94
Mali Lošinj 75 Maurus, St 56 Miličević, Paskoje 137
Malumbra, Toma, Bishop 138 Maximian, Emperor 122 Military Frontier (Vojna Krajina) 41,
Mana 101 Maximilian, Archduke 152 83, 173, 178, 185
Maps Maximilian, Emperor 181 Miljana 214
Brač 126 Medieval Mediterranean Garden of Milna (Brač) 126–7
Brijuni National Park 60–61 St Lawrence Monastery (MMG) Mimara, Ante Topić 166
Central Croatia 174–5 (Šibenik) 108 Mimara Museum (Zagreb) 27,
Cres 74 Međimurje 166–7
Croatia 16–17, 48–9 festivals 31 Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 93,
Dalmatia 92–3 Medović, Celestin 148
Dubrovnik 146–7, 149 Križevci 219 Ministry of Tourism 267
Europe 17 Požega 189 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 13,
Fortified Towns tour 70–71 St Francis (Zagreb) 159 169
Hvar 130–31 Medović, Mato C 168 Mljet 91
Hvar Town 133 Medulić, Andrija hotels 229
Istria and the Kvarner area 52–3 monument to (Zagreb) 168 Mljet National Park 13, 23, 142–3
Itineraries 10–11 Mersi, Anton 211 Mobile phones 272
Kopački Rit Nature Park 198–9 Mesić, Stipe 45 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168
Korčula 138–9 Meštrović, Ivan 24, 163 Modernist architecture 27
Kornati National Park 100–1 Baptistery of St John (Split) 120 Mohács, Battle of 40
Krk 80 birthplace 190 Mohammed II, Sultan 40
Krka National Park 106–7 Biskupija 112 Molat 99
Lošinj 75 Bust of a Woman 190 Monasteries and convents
Mljet National Park 142–3 Church of the Most Holy Benedictine Convent (Hvar) 132
Northern Counties 204–5 Redeemer (Otavice) 112 Convent of St Justine (Rab) 85
Osijek 195 Dalmatinac monument (Pag Dominican Monastery (Brač) 127
Osijek: The Fort (Tvrđa) 196–7 Town) 105 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Pag 104–5 Distant Accords 124 12, 147, 152
Plitvice Lakes National Park 88–9 Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) Dominican Monastery (Stari Grad,
Pula 63 170 Hvar) 131
Rab 85 History of Croatia 163 Franciscan Convent of St Anthony
Rijeka 73 Kaštilac (Split) 124 Abbot (Rab) 85
Risnjak National Park 76–7 Loggia (Trogir) 116 Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik)
road map see Back Endpaper Maria Banac 24 150
Salona 119 Mary with Child 164 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar Town)
Šibenik 109 Meštrović Atelier (Zagreb) 133
Slavonia and Baranja 186–7 161, 162 Franciscan Monastery (Sinj) 113
Monasteries and convents (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Music 255, 257
Monastery of the Holy Cross Ethnographic Museum (Split) festivals 28–31
(Osijek) 197 120–21 Sea Organ (Zadar) 96
Monastery of St Andrew (Rab) 84 Ethnographic Museum (Zagreb) Musical Biennial of Zagreb 28
Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran 167 Musical Evenings in St Donat
(Ilok) 191 Ethnographic Museum (Županja) (Zadar) 29
Monastery of St James (Osijek) 190–91
195 Ethnographic Museum of Istria N
Monastery of St Mary (Mljet) 142 (Pazin) 67 Naive painting 24, 25
Monastery of St Nicholas Ethnological Museum- Staro Selo Nakić, Petar 108
(Orahovica) 201 (Kumrovec) 214–15 Napoleon I, Emperor 40, 41, 42, 51
Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Fishing Museum (Komiža) 129 Narona 136
Visovac (Krka National Park) 106 Gallery of Old and Modern Našice 201
Money 270–71 Masters (Varaždin) 206 festivals 28
Morelli, Captain 69 Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) restaurants 248
Morlach family 112 12–13, 170–71 National Art Gallery (Split) 124–5
Moronzoni, Matteo 96 Heritage Museum (Rovinj) 58 National Parks 23
Morosini family 66 Historical and Maritime Museum Brijuni 23, 60–61
Morovič, Ivan, Count 192 of Istria (Pula) 62–3 Kornati 23, 48, 100–1
Mošćenice 68 Hlebine Gallery 205, 218 Krka 15, 23, 106–7
Mošćenićka Draga Icon Collection (Korčula) 139 Mljet 13, 23, 142–3
restaurants 238 Ivan Meštrović Gallery (Vrpolje) 190 North Velebit 23
Mother and Child (Meštrović) 163 Koprivnica Gallery 218 Paklenica 23, 103
Motorcycles 275 Malacological Museum (Makarska) Plitvice Lakes 14, 23, 48, 50, 88–9
Motorways 277 135 Risnjak 23, 76–7
Motovun 70 Maritime and History Museum of National and University Library
hotels 226 the Croatian Littoral (Rijeka) 72–3 (Zagreb) 27
restaurants 238Mountains 22 Maritime Museum (Orebić) 137 National Theatre (Varaždin) 207
hiking in 260, 261 Međimurje Civic Museum Naturism 266–7
Mraz, Franjo 25 (Čakovec) 208 Nerežišća (Brač) 127
Murtić, Edo 169 Meštrović Atelier (Zagreb) 161, 162 Neretva, River 136
Museums and galleries Meštrović Gallery (Split) 124 Neum 136
Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 138–9 Mimara Museum (Zagreb) 27, New Castle (Split) 125
Antun Augustinčić Gallery 166–7 Newspapers 273
(Klanjec) 215 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168 Nicephorus, St 67
Archaeological Museum (Split) Museum of Ancient Glass (Zadar) Nightclubs 255–6, 257
125 94 Nin 102
Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 95 Museum of Arts and Crafts Northern Counties 203–19
Archaeological Museum (Zagreb) (Zagreb) 166 food and drink 235
12, 168–9 Museum of Contemporary Art hotels 231
Archaeological Museum of Istria (Zagreb) 13, 169 map 204–5
(Pula) 63 Museum of Croatian restaurants 248–9
Bauer Gallery (Novska) 179 Archaeological Monuments (Split) Thermal Spas tour 216–17
Brač Museum (Škrip) 127 124 Nova Gradiška 188
Branislav Dešković Gallery (Brač) Museum of Fine Arts (Osijek) 195 restaurants 248
127 Museum of Krapina Neanderthal Novalja (Pag) 105
Civic Museum (Buje) 54 Men (Krapina) 211 Novi Mikanovci 190
Civic Museum (Ilok) 191 Museum of Moslavina (Kutina) 180 Novi Vinodolski 82
Civic Museum (Karlovac) 177 Museum of Nin Antiquities (Nin) festivals 29
Civic Museum (Koprivnica) 218 102 Novigrad (Cittanova) 55
Civic Museum (Križevci) 219 Museum of Sacred Art (Trogir) 116 restaurants 238–9
Civic Museum (Našice) 201 Museum of Sacred Art (Zadar) 95 Novska 179
Civic Museum (Požega) 189 Museum of Sinjska alka (Sinj) 113
Civic Museum (Samobor) 176 Museum of Slavonia (Osijek) 194, O
Civic Museum (Sisak) 174, 178 197 Odescalchi, Livio, Commander 191
Civic Museum (Trogir) 114 National Art Gallery (Split) 124–5 Odescalchi Manor (Ilok) 191
Civic Museum (Varaždin) 206 Pazin Town Museum 67 Ogulin 178
Civic Museum (Vinkovci) 191 Poreč Museum 55 Okić 175, 176
Civic Museum (Virovitica) 201 Regional Civic Museum (Slavonski Old Castle (Split) 125
Count’s Palace – Civic Museum Brod) 189 Old Loggia (Šibenik) 108
(Šibenik) 108 Regional Museum (Ogulin) 178 Olib 99
Cres Museum 74 Split City Museum 120 Olive Days (Punat) 31
Croatian History Museum (Zagreb) Stari Grad Museum (Hvar) 130, 131 Olympics of Ancient Sports
160, 164 Town Museum (Korčula) 139 (Brodanci) 21, 30, 200
Croatian Museum of Naive Art Town Museum (Labin) 67 Omiš 134
(Zagreb) 160, 165 Town Museum (Vis) 128 festivals 29
Croatian Natural History Museum Valpovo Museum 200 Omišalj 80–81
(Zagreb) 160, 162 Vjekoslav Karas Gallery (Karlovac) On the hills - rainforest (Rabuzin) 165
Entomological Museum (Varaždin) 177 Opatija 51, 69
207 Vučedol Culture Museum 192 festivals 31
Ethnographic Museum Vukovar Municipal Museum 192 hotels 226–7
(Mošćenice) 68 Zagreb City Museum 12, 162 restaurants 239
Opeka Park (Vinica) 209 Palma il Giovane (cont.) Polo, Marco 138
Opening hours 265 Labin 67 Pompey 34
restaurants 233 Oratory of the Holy Spirit (Omiš) Population 20
shops 250 134 Poreč (Parenzo) 55–7
Opuzen 136 Our Lady of Charity (Hvar) 133 Euphrasian Basilica 48, 56–7, 78–9
Orahovica 201 St Dominic (Split) 120 festivals 29
Orebić 137 St Dominic (Trogir) 117 hotels 227
hotels 229 Škrip (Brač) 127 restaurants 239
restaurants 243 Sunj 153 Porto-Salviati, Giuseppe 66
Orsera see Vrsar Palma il Vecchio 59 Postal services 272–3
Orsini, Bishop of Trogir 115 Pannonia 35, 36, 185 Poste restante service 273
Orsini, Giorgio see Dalmatinac, Parenzo see Poreč Povlja (Brač) 127
Juraj Parking 277 Požega 188–9
Osijek 41, 186, 194–7 Parks and gardens festivals 28, 30
airport 279 Botanical Garden (Sjeverni Pre-Romanesque architecture 26
festivals 28, 31 Velebit National Park) 83 Pregrada 214
The Fort (Trvđa): Street-by-Street Botanical Garden of the Faculty of Prehistoric sites 33
map 196–7 Science (Zagreb) 167 Preko (Ugljan) 98
hotels 231 Maksimir Park (Zagreb) 13, 169 Premuda 99
map 195 Medieval Mediterranean Garden Pribislao, Giovanni da 108
restaurants 248 of St Lawrence Monastery (MMG) Pribojević, Vinko 133
Osor 74 (Šibenik) 108 Primošten 113
Osor Music Festival 29 Opeka Park (Vinica) 209 hotels 229
Otavice 112 Ribnjak Public Gardens (Zagreb) Prince’s Palace (Rab) 84
Otto I, Emperor 38 159 Private lodgings 223–4
Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Trsteno Arboretum 12, 152 Probus, Emperor 34
Outdoor activities 258–61 Parler, Ivan 164 Ptolemy 81
Ozalj 177 Parliament Building (Zagreb) 161, Pučišća (Brač) 127
164 Pula (Pola) 14, 35, 51, 62–5
P Pašman 99 airport 279
Package holidays 275, 276 Passports 264 Amphitheatre 51, 64–5, 86–7,
Padovanino 66 Patsch, Karl 136 255, 257
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) Paul, King 44 festivals 28, 29
115 Pavelić, Ante 44 hotels 227
Pag 104–5 Pazin 66–7 map 63
hotels 229 Pejačević, Dora 201 restaurants 239
map 104–5 Pelješac Peninsula 137 Punat festivals 31
restaurants 243 Pellegrino of San Daniele 139 Putto (Verrocchio) 167
Pag Art Festival 30 Pensions 224
Pag Carnival 29 People’s Peasant Party 43, 44 Q
Pakleni Islands 133 People’s Square (Split) 121 Quadrio, Antonio 165
Paklenica National Park 23, People’s Square (Zadar) 94
103 Peristyle (Spilt) 120 R
Palaces Personal safety 268–9 Rab 14, 15, 83, 84–5
Archbishop’s Palace (Zagreb) Petar Krešimir IV, King 38, 39, 108 festivals 28, 29
158–9 Petretić, Petar, Bishop 158 hotels 227
Bishop’s Palace (Križevci) 219 Petrol stations 277 map 85
Čipiko Palace (Trogir) 116 Pets, travel documents 264 restaurants 239–40
Count’s Palace (Šibenik) 108 Pharmacies 268–9 Rabac 67
Hektorović Palace (Hvar) 132 Phones 272, 273 hotels 227
Palace of Diocletian (Split) 49, 120, Phrase book 295–6 Rabuzin, Ivan 165
122–3 Pićan 67 On the hills - rainforest 165
Prince’s Palace (Rab) 84 Picnics 233 Račić, Josip 168
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) 12, Pietro di Giovanni 153 Rački, Mirko 168, 218
146, 151 Pijade, Moša 210 Radauš, Vanja 159, 169
Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik) 27, Pile Gate (Dubrovnik) 148 Radić, Antun 43
147, 150–51 Pincino, Lorenzo 115 Radić, Stjepan 43, 44
Stafileo Palace (Trogir) 114 Piškera 101 Radio 273
Viceroy’s Palace (Zagreb) 160, Pittoni, Giovanni Battista 105 Radovan, Master 24, 114
164 Pizzerias 232–3 Ragusa 40
Vojković-Oršić Palace (Zagreb) 27 Plague Column (Osijek) 196 see also Dubrovnik
Palatium (Mljet) 142 Plančić, Juraj 130 Ragusino, Antonio 150
Palma il Giovane Pliny the Elder 152 Ragusino, Niccolò 152
Baška 81 Plisko Polje (Vis) 129 Railways see Trains
Cathedral of St Anastasia (Zadar) Plitvice Lakes National Park 14, 23, Rainfall 30
96 48, 50, 88–9 Ranger, Ivan 25, 210
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) hotels 227 Krapina 211
115 Ploče Gate (Dubrovnik) 147, 148 Lepoglava 210
Cathedral of St Stephen (Hvar) 132 Plomin 68 St Jerome (Štrigova) 209
Church of the Annunciation Pola see Pula St John the Baptist (Varaždin)
(Svetvinčenat) 66 Police 268, 269 207
Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 56 registering with 264 St Mary of the Snows (Belec) 217
Rapallo, Treaty of (1920) 44, 94 St Mark’s Square (Zagreb) 48 Slavenski, Josip 208
Raphael 151Rapska fjera (Rab) 29 St Mark’s Tower (Trogir) 117 Slavonia and Baranja 185–201
Rašica176 St Martin’s Day 31 food and drink 235
Ratkaj family 214 St Roch’s Day 30 history 38, 39, 45
Razmilović, Bone 125 St Sebastian (Carpaccio) 171 hotels 231
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) 12, St Theodore’s Day 29 Kopački Rit Nature Park 198–9
146, 151 St Vincenca’s Day 28 map 186–7
Regatta Rovinj-Pesaro-Rovinj 28 St Vincent’s Day (Međimurje) 31 restaurants 247–8
Reiffenberg, Baron 54 St Vitus, Mount (Brač) 127 Slavonski Brod 186, 189
Religion 21 Sali (Dugi Otok) 98 festivals 28–9
Renaissance architecture 27 Salona 35, 36, 118–19 restaurants 248
Rendić, Ivan 131, 169 map 119 Slavs 36–7
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste Salt trade 102 Smajić, Petar 165, 193
The Bather 166 Samobor 176 Smoking 265
Rescue services 269 hotels 231 Snakes 269
Responsible tourism 267 restaurants 247 Soardo Bembo family 59
Restaurants 232–49 Sanmicheli, Michele 94, 108, 109 Sobota, Giovanni 117
Central Croatia 247 Santacroce, Francesco da 133 Sokolić, Dorijan 82
Dalmatia 240–45 Santacroce, Girolamo da 81 Šolta 13, 126
Istria and the Kvarner area 238–40 All Saints’ Church (Blato) 140 hotels 229
Northern Counties 248–9 Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Souvenirs 251–2
Slavonia and Baranja 247–8 St Mary of Spilica (Lopud) 153 Spas 261
tipping 265 Saplunara (Mljet) 143 Bizovačke Toplice 200
Zagreb 245–7 Šarengrad 192 Daruvar 188
see also Food and drink Sava, River 23, 175, 180, 186, 190 Lipik 188
Resurrection of Lazarus (Meštrović) Scamozzi, Vincenzo 66 Romans 35
163 Scarpa, Iginio 69 Thermal Spas tour 216–17
Ribar, Dr Ivan 162 Schmidt, Friedrich von 158, 190 Varaždinske Toplice 217
Rijeka 72–3 Scipio, Publius Cornelius 104 Special needs travellers 265, 267
airport 279 Scipio Nasica, Publius 34 Spirits 236
festivals 28, 31 Scordisci 33, 34 Špišić Bukovica
hotels 227 Sculpture 24 hotels 231
map 73 Sea Gate (Trogir) 117 Split 13, 15, 21, 26, 120–25
morčić jewellery 252 Sea Gate (Zadar) 94 airport 274–5, 279
restaurants 240 Sea Organ (Zadar) 96 festivals 29
Risnjak National Park 23 Seitz, Ljudevit 190 hotels 229–30
Leska Trail 76–7 Seitz, Maksimilijan 190 map 121
Roads see Cars Self-catering 233 markets 250–51
Robba, Francesco 165, 217, 219 Seljan, Mirko 167 Palace of Diocletian 120, 122–3
Roč 71 Seljan, Stevo 167 restaurants 243–4
Rodin, Auguste 163 Sellaio, Jacopo del Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik) 27, 147,
Roksandić, Simeon 165 Virgin Mary with Jesus, John 150–51
Romanesque architecture 26 and an Angel 171 Sports 256–7, 258–61
Romans 34–6, 51 Senj 82–3 Spring in Croatia 28
Palace of Diocletian (Split) 120, Sergia, Salvia Postuma 62 Square of the Loggia (Dubrovnik)
122–3 Seven Castles (Split) 125 150
Roman amphitheatre (Pula) 51, Severus, Septimus, Emperor 34 Stafileo Palace (Trogir) 114
64–5, 255, 257 Shopping 250–53 Stari Grad (Hvar) 130–31
Roman Arch (Rijeka) 72 Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat (Rijeka) Stari Grad Plain (Hvar) 23
Salona 118–19 73 Stepinac, Alojzije, Cardinal 158, 210
Romualdo, St 58 Shrovetide Sezona (Kraljevica) 31 Stjepan, Ban of Bosnia 142
Romulus Augustus, Emperor 36 Šibenik 15, 108–11 Stolnik, Slavko 165
Rosa, Salvator 115 Cathedral of St James 110–11 Stomorska (Šolta) 126
Rosandić, Toma 126 festivals 29 Ston 137
Roški Slap 107 hotels 229 hotels 230
Rösner, Karl 190 map109 restaurants 244
Rottman, Franjo 159 restaurants 243 Stone, Dalmatian 140
Rovinj (Rovigno) 14, 58 Sigismund, King 219 Stone Gate (Zagreb) 159, 161
festivals 28 Sigismund of Austria 210 Storks 23, 198
hotels 227–8 Silver Gate (Split) 120 Stradun (Dubrovnik) 12, 150
restaurants 240 Simeon, St 94 Straub, Filip Jacob 211
Rufus, Quintus Minucius 34 Sinj 113 Štrigova 209
festivals 30 Strossmayer, Josip Juraj, Bishop 43,
S Sinjska Alka (Sinj) 30, 113 170, 190
Safety 268–9 Šipan 153 Strozzi, Bernardo 75
Sailing 258–9, 261 Šipanska Luka 153 Stubičke Toplice 216
Kornati Islands 101 Sisak 178 Student travellers 224
St Augustine and St Benedict (Bellini) restaurants 247 Šubić, Stjepan 83
171 Skradin 106 Šubić-Zrinski dynasty 81, 181
St George’s Castle (Split) 125 Skradinski Buk 106 Šubićevac Fort (Šibenik) 109
St George’s Day 28 Škrip (Brač) 127 Sućuraj (Hvar) 131
St Mark’s Festival (Zagreb) 28 Skurjeni, Matija 165 Suđurađ 153
Šulentić, Zlatko 179 Tower of Lotrščak (Zagreb) 12, United Nations 19, 45, 140, 185
Suleyman II the Magnificent, Sultan 160, 165 Urban V, Pope 73
40, 41, 196 Town Hall (Rijeka) 72 Uskoks 83
Sumartin (Brač) 127 Town Hall (Trogir) 116 Ustaše 44
Summer Carnival (Novi Vinodolski) The Town’s Day (Lipik) 31
29 The Town’s Day (Osijek) 31 V
Summer in Croatia 28–30 Traditional handicrafts 251–2 Valdec, Rudolf 27, 167
Summer Festival (Hvar) 29 Traditions and customs 20–21 Valens, Emperor 34, 191
Summer of Margherita (Bakar) 29 Traffic information 278 Valentinian, Emperor 34, 191
Šunj 153 Trail of Glagolitic Documents 71 Valle see Bale
Sunshine 29 Trains 275, 276, 278 Valpovo 200
Supetar (Brač) 126 Trakošćan 210–11, 212–13 Varaždin 206–7
Susak 75 hotels 231 festivals 30
Susanna and the Elders 170 restaurants 249 history 38–9
Sutinske Toplice 216 Trams in Zagreb 280–81 hotels 231
Sveti Križ Začretje Travel 274–81 map 207
restaurants 249 air 274–5, 276, 277, 279 restaurants 249
Svetvinčenat 66 buses 278, 279 Varaždin Castle 205, 206
Svršata 101 cars 275, 277–8 Varaždinske Toplice 217
Central Croatia 174 VAT refunds 250
T coaches 275, 276, 278–9 Vecchia, Gasparo della 54
Tasca, Cristoforo 80 Dalmatia 92 Vecchietti, Emilio 151
Taverns 232 ferries 276, 279 Večenaj, Ivan 25, 165
Tax refunds 250 Istria and Kvarner area 52 Vegetarian food 233
Taxis Northern Counties 205 Vela Luka 140
tipping 265 Slavonia and Baranja 187 Vela Ploča (Kornat) 101
in Zagreb 281 trains 275, 276, 278 Velebit mountains 23, 103
Tea 236 Zagreb 157, 280–81 Veli Brijun 60–61
Telašćica Nature Park 98, 100 Trbuljak, Goran 169 Veli Lošinj 75
Telephones 272, 273 Trees 22 Veliki Tabor 204, 214
Television 273 Trka na prstenac (Barban) 30 restaurants 249
Temperatures 31 Trogir 15, 114–17 Veliko Jezero (Mljet) 142
Templar Knights see Knights hotels 230 Venantius, St 118
Templar map 115 Veneziano, Paolo 25
Temple of Augustus (Pula) 62 restaurants 244 Cathedral of St Mary (Rab) 84
Tennis 261 Trogiranin, Blaž Juriev 124 Convent and Church of St Justine
Terme Jezerčica 216 Trogiranin, Petar 84 (Rab) 85
Terme Tuhelj 216 Trpimir, Prince 38 Diocesan Museum (Krk) 80
Teuta, Queen 34 Trsat Castle (Rijeka) 73 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Theatre 254, 257 Trsteno 12, 152 152
Theft 268 Tuđman, Franjo 45, 210 St Blaise (Vodnjan) 59
Theodosius the Great, Emperor 36 Tuheljske Toplice Venice 38, 39, 40, 41, 51, 181
Thermal spas see Spas hotels 231 Ventura, Jurai 59
Thurn and Taxis family 177 Turkalj, Juri 169 Veronese, Paolo 131, 167
Tiberius, Emperor 34, 35 Turks 40, 41 Verrocchio, Andrea del
Tickets Trvđa (Osijek) Putto 167
buses and trams (Zagreb) 280–81 Street-by-Street map 196–7 Vespasian, Emperor 64, 136
entertainment 254 Tvrdalj (Stari Grad, Hvar) 130, 131 Vicentino, Andrea 39
Ticks 269 Twin Gate (Pula) 63 Viceroy’s Palace (Zagreb) 160,
Ties, shopping 252–3 164
Time zone 267 U Vid 136
Timotej, Bishop of Zagreb 158, 180 Uberti, Domenico 132 Vidov, Grgur 115
Tintoretto 127, 131, 138 Ugljan 98 Vienna, Congress of (1815) 42
Tipping 265 Ujević, Tin 124 Villa Angiolina (Opatija) 69
Tišov, Ivan 165, 219 Uluz Ali 131 Villa Stay (Rijeka Dubrovačka) 152
Titian 139, 151, 152, 206 Umag (Umago) 54 Vinagora 214
Tito, Josip, Marshal 44–5 hotels 228 Vincenca, St 139, 140
birthplace 214 restaurants 240 Vincent od Kastva 25
Brijuni Islands 60, 61 UNESCO (culture and science) Dance of Death 25
Lepoglava 210 lacemaking 210, 251 Vineyards, Dalmatia 135
Ogulin 178 Lepoglava 210 Velebit Vinica 209
Vis 128, 129 mountains 23, 103 Vinkovačke Jeseni (Vinkovci) 30
Tkon (Pašman) 99 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Vinkovci 191
Toma, Archdeacon of Split 123, 124 Ager (Hvar) 131 festivals 30
Tomislav, King 38, 168 Dubrovnik 92, 148 Vinodol Codex 82
Tomislav Square (Varaždin) 206 Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 56–7 Virgin Mary with Jesus, John and an
Topolje 193 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar) 133 Angel (Sellaio) 171
Topusko Toplice 178 Plitvice Lakes National Park Virgin with Child and St Francis and
Tourist offices 265, 267 88–9 St Bernardine of Siena (Caporali)
Tours by car Stari Grad Plain (Hvar) 23 170
Fortified Towns 70–71 Trogir 114 Virius, Mirko 25, 165
Thermal Spas 216–17 Unije 75 Virovitica 186, 201
Vis 13, 128–9 Whitewater rafting 261 Zagorje 49

hotels 230 Wildlife 22–3 Zagreb 155–71
map 128 Brijuni National Park 60–61 airport 274, 279
restaurants 244 Kopački Rit Nature Park festivals 28–31
Visas 264 198–9 hotels 230–31
Višeslav, Prince 37, 124 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 180 map 156–7
Visovac, Lake 106, 107 Mljet National Park 142–3 markets 250
Vitturi Castle (Split) 125 Paklenica National Park 103 restaurants 245–7
Vivarini, Antonio 56, 85 Plitvice Lakes National Park 88–9 shopping centres 251, 253
Vivarini, Bartolomeo 75, 85 Risnjak National Park 76 travel 280–81
Voćin 201 Windsurfing 259 Two Days in Zagreb 12–13
Vodcka, Tomas 190 Wines 237 Two Weeks in Croatia 14–15
Vodnjan (Dignano) 59 festivals 28, 31 Upper Town: Street-by-Street map
festivals 30 The Vineyards of Dalmatia 135 160–61
Vojković-Oršić-Rauch Palace Winter in Croatia 31 Zagreb City Museum 12, 162
(Zagreb) 27, 160, 164 Woman by the Sea (Meštrović) 163 Zagrebačko Kazalište Lutaka
Vojnomir, Prince 37 Woodcutters (Generalić) 25 (Zagreb) 254, 257
Voltolini, Giuseppe 190 World War I 19, 43, 51 Zavala (Hvar) 131
Vrboska (Hvar) 131 World War II 44, 51, 128, 129, 179, Zela, Ivan de, Bishop 190
Vrhovac, Maksimilijan, Bishop 169 193 Žičara cable car (Zagreb)
Vrpolje 190 281
Vrsar (Orsera) 58 Y Živogošće 135
hotels 228 Yachting see Sailing Zmajevac
Vukovar 192 Youth hostels 224, 225 restaurants 248
hotels 231 Yugoslav People’s Army (JNA) 45, Zoo, Zagreb 169
restaurants 248 192 Zotikos 122
Yugoslavia 19 Zrin 179
W Croatia secedes from 45 Zrinski, Juraj 177
Walking establishment of Kingdom of Zrinski, Nikola 41, 181
hiking in the mountains 260, 261 44 Čakovec 208
in Zagreb 280 Darda 193
Walls (Dubrovnik) 12, 148 Z tomb of 209
Walls (Zadar) 94 Zabok Zrinski, Petar 41, 181
Water, drinking 237 restaurants 249 execution 181, 208
Waterfalls Zadar 15, 92, 94–7 tomb of 158, 209
Krka National Park 106–7 airport 279 Zrinski dynasty 41, 181
Plitvice Lakes National Parks 88–9 Church of St Donat 97 St Helen (Čakovec) 209
Weather 28–31, 264 festivals 29 Zrin 179
forecasts 273 hotels 230 Županja 190–91
Weber, Max 155 map 95 Zvečaj
Week of Kajkavian Culture (Krapina) restaurants 244–5 restaurants 247
30 Zadar Archipelago 98–101 Zvonimir, King 38, 39
Wheelchair access see Disabled Kornati National Park 100–1 assassination 112
travellers map 98–9 Baptistery of St John (Split) 120
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  293
Acknowledgments
Fabio Ratti Editoria would like to thank the following Special Thanks
staff at Dorling Kindersley: Croatian National Tourist Board, Zagreb, in particular the
director Niko Bulić; Croatian National Tourist Board, Milan, in
Map Coordinator particular the director Klaudio Stojnic and the public
Dave Pugh. relations manager Božidarka Boza Gligorijević; the regional
and local tourist boards of Croatia; Vinko Bakija (director of
Senior DTP Manager the tourist office, Supetar, island of Brač); Zdravko Banović
Jason Little. (tourist office, Split); Daniela Barac (tourist guide in
Crikvenica); Nikša Bender (marketing manager of the tourist
Publishing Manager office of Dubrovnik); Maja Boban (tourist guide of the
Anna Streiffert. environs of Zagreb); Ankita Boksic Franchini (tourist office,
Split); Tanja Bunjevac (tourist office, Varaždin) Rujana Bušić
Managing Art Editor (tourist guide in Vinkovci); Vanja Dadić (tourist guide in
Marisa Renzullo. Šibenik); Mirjana Darrer (public relations manager of the
tourist office in Dubrovnik); Marchese Doimo Frangipane
Publisher di Aiello del Friuli; Danijela Duić (tourist guide in Karlovac);
Douglas Amrine. Jurica Dužević (director of the tourist office in Stari Grad,
island of Hvar); Daniela Fanikutić (tourist office, Poreč); Ennio
Dorling Kindersley would also like to thank all those Forlani (director of the tourist office of Vodnjan); Vesna
whose contribution and assistance have made the Gamulin (tourist guide in Dubrovnik); Miljenko Gašparac
preparation of this book possible. (guard of the Risnjak National Park); Boris Gržina (front office
manager of the Hotel Esplanade in Zagreb); Vesna Habazin
Principal Author and Snježana Hrupelj (tourist guides in the area of the
Leandro Zoppè was born in Venice and graduated in thermal spas); Mladenka Jarac-Rončević (Croatian Consul
Political Science from Padua University. At present he lives in Italy); Zoran Jelaska (tourist guide in Split); Vesna Jovičić
in Milan where, as a historian, he works as a freelance (tourist guide in Pula); Darko Kovačić (tourist guide in the
journalist and writer of tour guides and historical, artistic Lonjsko Polje Nature Park); Darko Kovačić (director of the
or naturalistic books. tourist office, Omiš); Stanka Kraljević (director of the tourist
office in the town of Korčula); Vlasta Krklec (Museum of
Contributors Krapina); Tonći Lalić (tourist guide in Makarska); Damir
Božidarka Boza Gligorijević, Public Relations Manager Macanić (director of the tourist office in Osijek); Damir
for the Croatian National Tourist Board in Milan; Graeme Mihalić (tourist office, Varaždinske Toplice); Josip Mikolčić
Harwood, author and gourmand. (tourist office, Virovitica); Danijela Miletić (tourist office,
Zagreb); Smiljan Mitrović (tourist guide in Zadar); Franjo
Text Revision Mrzljak (director of the National Museum of Naive Art,
Sanja Rojić (University professor), Iva Grgic (University Zagreb); Andro Krstulović Opara (former Croatian Consul
professor). in Italy); Ottone Novosel (tourist guide in Križevci); Ankica
Pandzic (director of the Museum of Croatian History in
Checking of Practical Information Zagreb); Danika Plazibat (Meštrović Gallery, Zagreb);
Lucia Čutura, Viktor Jovanović Marušić, Jane Foster. Gordana Perić (tourist office, Zadar); Ante Rendić-Miočević
(director of the Archaeological Museum, Zagreb); Mladen
Senior Editor, UK Edition Radić (Director of the Museum of Slavonia, Osijek); Ljubica
Jacky Jackson. Ramušćak (Civic Museum of Medimurje, Cakovec); Ljiljana
Sever (tourist guide in Varaždin); Josipa Šipek (director of
Proof Reader Hotel Coning in Trakošćan); Doris Staničić (tourist guide in
Alessandra Lombardi, Stewart J Wild. Osijek); Alka Starac (Archaeological Museum of Istria, Pula);
Branka Tropp (director of the tourist office in Varaždin); Duro
Indexer Vandura (director of the Gallery of Ancient Masters, Zagreb);
Helen Peters. Klara Vedriš (Gallery of Modern Art, Zagreb); Vjenceslav
Vlahov (tourist guide in Zagreb); Igor Zidić (director of the
Fact Checker Gallery of Modern Art, Zagreb); Marko Zoričić (director of
Katarina Bulic. the tourist office in Opatija).
Revisions Team DK wishes to thank Lady Beresford-Peirse of the

Louise Abbott, Claire Baranowski, Marta Bescos, Sonal International Trust for Croatian Monuments for her time
Bhatt, Nadia Bono-mally, Jonathan Bousfield, Louise and invaluable suggestions.
Cleghorn, Karen DSouza, Anna Fischel, Anna Freiberger,
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Root, Ankita Sharma, Julie Thompson, Priyansha Tuli, Vinita and their kind permission in allowing their establishments
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PHRASE BOOK  295
Phrase Book
Pronounciation straighton ravno ravnoh
c – “ts” as in rats near blizu bleezoo
č – “chi” as in church far daleko dalekoh
ć – “t” is a soft t up gore gorey
đ – “d” is a soft d down dolje dolyey
g – “g” is a hard g as in get early rano ranoh
j – “y” as in yes late kasno kasnoh
š – sh entrance ulaz oolaz
Ž – shown here as “zh”, sounds like the “J” in the French exit izlaz eezlaz
name, Jacques toilet WC Veytsey
“aj” – shown here as “igh”, sounds like “I” or the “igh” in night. more više veeshey
less manje manyey
In Emergency
Help! Pomoć! pomoch Shopping
Stop! Stani! stahnee How much Koliko ovo kolikoh ovoh
Call a doctor! Zovite doktora! zoveetey does this cost? košta? koshta
doktorah I would like… Volio bih… volioh bee…
Call an Zovite hitnu pomoć! zoveetey heetnoo Do you have…? Imate li…? eematey lee…
ambulance! pomoch I’m just looking Samo gledam Samoh gledam
Call the police! Zovite policiju! zoveetey Do you take Primate li preematey lee
poleetseeyoo credit cards? kreditne kartice? credeetney
Call the Zovite vatrogasce! zoveetey carteetsey
fire brigade! vatrohgastsay What time do Kad otvarate? kad otvaratey
Where is the Gdje je gdyey yey n-igh- you open?
nearest najbliži telefon? bleezhee telefon What time do Kad zatvarate? kad zatvaratey
telephone? you close?
Where is the Gdje je gdyey yey n-igh- This one Ovaj ov-igh
nearest hospital? najbliža bolnica? bleezhah That one Onaj on-igh
bolnitsa expensive skupo skoopoh
Communication Essentials cheap jeftino yefteenoh
Yes da dah size (clothes) veličina veleechinah
No ne ney size (shoes) broj broy
Please molim vas moleem vas white bijelo beeyeloh
Thank you hvala hvahlah black crno tsrnoh
Excuse me oprostite oprosteetey red crveno tsrvenoh
Hello dobar dan dobar dan yellow žuto zhootoh
Goodbye dovidenja doveedjenya green zeleno zelenoh
Goodnight laku noc lakoo noch blue plavo plavoh
Morning jutro yootroh bakery pekara pekarah
Afternoon popodne popodney bank banka bankah
Evening večer vecher books hop knjižara knyeezharah
Yesterday jučer yoocher butcher’s mesnica mesnitsah
Today danas danas cakes hop slastičarna slasteecharnah
Tomorrow sutra sootrah chemist’s apoteka apohtekah
Here tu too fishmonger’s ribarnica reebarnitsah
There tamo tahmoh market tržnica trzhneetsah
What? što? shtoh hair dresser’s frizer freezer
When? kada? kada news agent’s/ trafika trafeekah
Why? zašto? zashtoh tobacconist
Where? gdje? gdyey post office pošta poshtah
shoe shop prodavaonica prodavaonitsa
Useful Phrases cipela tseepelah
How are you? Kako ste? kakoh stey supermarket supermarket soopermarket
Very well, thank you Dobro, hvala dobroh, hvahlah travel agent putnička pootneechka
Pleased to meet you Drago mi je! dragoh mee yey agencija agentseeyah
See you soon Vidimo se veedeemoh sey Sightseeing
That’s fine U redu oo redoo
Where is/are…? Gdje je/su? gdyey yey/soo art gallery galerija galereeyah
How far is it to…? Koliko je kolikoh yey umjetnina oomyetneenah
daleko do…? dalekoh doh… cathedral katedrala katedralah
How can I get to…? Kako mogu kakoh mogoo church crkva tsrkvah
doći do…? dochee doh… garden vrt vurt
Do you speak Govorite li govoreetey library knjižnica knyeezhneetsah
English? engleski? lee engleskee museum muzej moozey
I don’t understand Ne razumijem nay razoomeeyem tourist turistički ured tooreesteechkey
Could you speak Molim vas, moleem vas, information centre oored
more slowly please? možete li govoriti mozhetey lee town hall gradska vijećnica gradskah
sporije? govoreetee veeyechneetsa
sporiyey closed for holiday zatvoreno zatvorenoh zbog
I’m sorry Žao mi je zhaoh mee yey zbog praznika prazneekah
bus station autobusni aootoboosnee
Useful Words kolodvor kolodvor
railway station željeznički zhelyeznichkih
big veliko veleekoh
kolodvor kolodvor
small malo mahloh
hot vruć vrooch Staying in a Hotel
cold hladan hlahdan
good dobar dobar Do you have Imate li sobu? eematey lee soboo
bad loš losh a vacant room?
enough dosta dostah double room dvokrevetna soba dvokrevetnah sobah
well dobro dobroh single room jednokrevetna yednokrevetnah
open otvoreno otvohrenoh soba sobah
closed zatvoreno zatvohrenoh room with a bath soba sa sobah sah
left lijevo leeyevoh kupatilom koopateelom
right desno desnoh shower tuš toosh
296  phrasebook
porter portir portir sol sol salt

key ključ klyooch tjestenina tjesteneenah pasta stuffed with
I have a reservation Imam eemam meatandrice
rezervaciju rezervatseeyoo ulje oolyey oil
varivo vareevoh boiled vegetables
Eating Out
Have you got Imate li stol za…? eematey lee stol zah Drinks
a table for…? bijelovino beeyeloh veenoh white wine
I want to Želim Zheleem čaj ch-igh tea
reserve a table rezervirati stol rezerveeratee stol crno vino tsrnoh veenoh red wine
The bill please Molim vas, račun moleem vas, gazirana gazeeranah sparkling mineral
rachoon mineralna voda meeneralnah water
I am a vegetarian Jasam yahsam vodah
vegeterijanac vegetereeyanats kava kavah coffee
waiter/waitress konobar/ konobar/
negazirana neygazeeranah still mineral
konobarica konobaritsah
mineralna voda meeneralnah water
menu jelovnik yelovneek
vodah
wine list vinska karta veenskah kartah
glass čaša chashah pivo peevoh beer
bottle boca botsah rakija rakeeyah spirit
knife nož nozh tamno pivo tamnoh peevoh stout (dark beer)
fork viljuška veelyooshkah travarica travareetsah spirit flavoured
spoon žlica zhleetsah with herbs
breakfast doručak doroochak voda vodah water
lunch ručak roochak
dinner večera vecherah Numbers
main course glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh 0 nula noolah
starters predjela predyelah 1 jedan yedan
2 dva dvah
Menu Decoder 3 tri tree
bijela riba beeyelah reebah “white” fish 4 četiri cheteeree
blitva bleetvah Swiss chard 5 pet pet
brudet broodet fish stew 6 šest shest
čevapčići chevapcheechee meatballs 7 sedam sedam
crni rižot tsrnee reezhot black risotto 8 osam osam
(prepared with 9 devet devet
cuttlefish ink) 10 deset deset
desert desert dessert 11 jedanaest yedanest
glavno jelo glavnoh yeloh main course 12 dvanaest dvahnest
grah grah beans 13 trinaest treenest
gulaš goolash goulash 14 četrnaest chetrnest
jastog yastog lobster 15 petnaest petnest
juha yoohah soup 16 šestnaest shestnest
kuhano koohanoh cooked 17 sedamnaest sedamnest
maslinovo ulje masleenovoh olive oil
18 osamnaest osamnest
oolyey
19 devetnaest devetnest
meso na žaru mesoh nah zharoo barbecued meat
miješano meso meejeshanoh mixed grilled 20 dvadeset dvahdeset
mesoh meats 21 dvadesetijedan dvahdesetee
na žaru nah zharoo barbecued yedan
ocat otsat vinegar 22 dvadesetidva dvahdeseteedvah
palačinke palacheenkay pancakes 30 trideset treedeset
papar papar pepper 31 tridesetijedan treedeseteeyedan
paški sir pashkih seer sheep’s cheese 40 četrdeset chetrdeset
from Pag 50 pedeset pedeset
pečeno pechenoh baked 60 šezdeset shezdeset
piletina peeleteenah chicken 70 sedamdeset sedamdeset
plava riba plavah reebah “blue” fish 80 osamdeset osamdeset
predjelo predyeloh starters 90 devedeset devedeset
prilog preelog side dish 100 sto stoh
pršut prshoot smoked ham 101 stoijedan stoheeyedan
pržene lignje przhene leegnyey fried squid 102 stoidva stoheedvah
prženo przhenoh fried 200 dvjesto dveestoh
ramsteak ramsteyk rump steak 500 petsto petstoh
ražnjići razhnyeechee pork kebabs 700 sedamsto sedamstoh
riba na žaru reebah nah zharoo barbecued fish 900 devetsto devetstoh
rižot frutti di mare reezhot frootee seafood risotto 1,000 tisuću teesoochoo
dee marey 1,001 tisućuijedan teesoochoo
rižot sa škampima reezhot sah scampi risotto eeyedan
shkampeemah
salata salatah salad Time
salata od salatah od octopus salad One minute jedna minuta yedna meenootah
hobotnice hobotneetsey One hour jedan sat yedan saht
sarma sarmah cabbage leaves
Half an hour pola sata polah sahtah
sir seer cheese
Monday ponedjeljak ponedyelyak
sladoled sladoled ice cream
slana srdela slanah srdelah salted sardines Tuesday utorak ootorak
škampi na buzaru shkampee nah scampi in tomato Wednesday srijeda sreejedah
boozaroo and onion Thursday četvrtak chetvrtak
školjke na buzaru shkolkay nah shellfish in tomato Friday petak petak
boozaroo and onion Saturday subota soobotah
špageti frutti shpagetee frootee spaghetti with Sunday nedjelja nedyelyah
di mare dee marey seafood

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide - Croatia - 2E (2017) PDF

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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide - Croatia - 2E (2017) PDF

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eyewitness travel

Main Contributors Leandro Zoppé,

Contributors Božidarka Boža Gligorijević, Iva Grgic, Sanja Rojić

Cartographers Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara

Illustrators Modi Artistici

English Translation Susan Andrews

Editors Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild

Consultant Jane Foster

Printed and bound in China Introducing

The History of Croatia 32

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Where to Eat Travel Information 274

Phrase Book 295

Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish of

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

Croatia Area by Area

front cover is a general map of war, the Romans managed to conquer

of the country showing

52  C R o aT I a a R e a B y a R e a IsTRIa aNd The K vaRNeR aRea  53

Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area Sights at a Glance

This shows the road network and

provides an illustrated overview

of the whole region. The most

(UMAGO) Crni Lug Ferry route

BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK Summit

interesting places to visit are

numbered, and there are useful POREČ

tips on getting around the region

by car and public transport.

PARK PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice

Getting Around Unije

The roads are good; there is a motorway

All the important towns

the numbering shown on

the most important sights.

130  C R O At I A A R e A b y A R e A D A L M At I A  131 The Visitors’ Checklist provides

for each place. A map shows

Main Towns Both the church and the

All the main towns have an

individual section where the

museums, monuments and

Varaždin Town Centre

All the sights of major interest

are located on the town map.

Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg

Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PAV L I NSKA

Erdödy St Nicholas Train Station

The town map shows

car parking areas and

M provincial administration offices were

Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). D

was proclaimed from the central window

The building dates from the 17th century and was

built after the city became the seat of the Ban

This gives a bird’s-eye view of

the key areas of interest in the

main towns and cities with

iT The coloured tiles on the roof of this

of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia,

photographs and captions

Slavonia and Zagreb.

w Croatian History Museum

This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić-