DK Eyewitness Travel Guide - Croatia - 2E (2017) PDF
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide - Croatia - 2E (2017) PDF
croatia
eyewitness travel
CROATIA
Produced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy
Project Editor Donatella Ceriani
Art Editor Oriana Bianchetti
Editors Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi Giovanna Morselli,
Federica Romagnoli
Photographers
Adriano Bacchella, Aldo Pavan, Lucio Rossi, Leandro Zoppé
Zagreb 154
Central
Croatia 172
Slavonia
and Baranja 184
The Northern
Counties 202
The church of
St Donat in Zadar
Statue by Contieri, church of
St Andrew, Mošćenice
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
colour code. On the inside Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
1 Introduction
In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there
• ZaGReB
Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into 2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija
three areas. White Istria is a central plateau of karst or 3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav
BOsNia-
limestone with sparse areas of oak, pine and ash trees; grey 4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 heRZeGOViNa
Istria consists of a strip of eroded limestone with rich soil, 5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino)
used for vines and olive trees; and red Istria is a plateau adRiatic
sea
7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša, farmed for cereals
8 Vodnjan (Dignano) k Krk
and vegetables. The most popular destinations in Istria are Locator Map
9 Fažana (Fasana) l Bakar
Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The
2
0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
A secluded beach on the island of Mljet
Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline as q Pula (Pola) pp62–5
Regional Map
x Crikvenica
Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnikfar as“pearl
– the Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland, with
of the Adriatic” w Barban c Novi Vinodolski
the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice e Svetvinčenat v Senj Key
Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, The Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the r Pazin b Rab pp84–5
TOUR OF Delnice
Gora
(CITTANOVA)
IS TARS KA
pe
LOVRAN BAKAR
Boljun
Bjelolasica
PAZIN KRALJEVICA
(PARENZO) 1534m
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN CRIKVENICA
BRIJUNI 0 miles 30
r
FAŽANA(FASANA) ka
Kora
NATIONAL
ne
Lubenice Otočac
NATIONAL PARK
Kva
Lukovo
Kv
PULA(POLA) Lopar
CRES Rab
Mali Rajinac Bihać
RAB
rn
Kampor 1699m
Rab
P
Korenica
er
lj
Cres Jablanac
Ve
Dolin
e
ić
še
190 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A SLA
linking Rijeka toVZagreb,
O N I A asAwell
N DasBfromARANJA 191 Nerezine
a
b
Lički Osik
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger
i
Ozeblin
Pag 1657m
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO)
t
Lika Udbina
ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Lošinj Gospić Donji
9 Novi Mikanovci in the 1990s and now restored, summer season – these take Around the middle
cars also. Buses of the Mali Lošinj
Karlobag
Gračac
Lapac
Veli Lošinj Zadar
it houses the Ethnographic link all the main towns and15th century,
a busthe Church
runs and
Susak
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km there’s that Zadar
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km
Museum (Zavičajni muzej from Pula to Trieste, while Monastery of St Ivan
trains link Rijeka and Kapistran
(2 miles). n (032) 344 034. “Stjepan Gruber”). Zagreb, with connections (Sv. to theIvansouth
Kapistran) were built
of Croatia. Ilovik
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
The village is famous for the E Ethnographic Museum was aand
For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 Franciscan
pp238–40 who was For keys to symbols see back flap
small Romanesque Church of Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open famous for uniting Christian
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol), 7am–7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. forces against the Turks and
from the first half of the 13th & 8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
century, a rare example of Ilok became a major Turkish
architecture from before Turkish q Vinkovci administrative and military
rule. The church stands in a Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
cemetery and is called the (27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia” 332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
because of its leaning bell Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
tower, which appears to be Glagoljaška 27, (032) 344 034. the monastery have been
held up by the façade. At the _ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni The Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
statue of St Bartholomew. (Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
7 Vrpolje was built. After Turkish rule, the one of the Turkish baths are
city was renovated. Only the A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, 39 km
(24 miles). @ from Osijek. n mosque, at the end of the 0 Županja back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km
In 1683, after his role in
Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, central avenue, was retained. Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km (24 winning the battle of Vienna,
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. It was converted into the (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki the birthplace of the Emperors miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, (032) Commander Livio Odescalchi
parish church of All Saints (Svi kraj 66, (032) 832 711. _ Folklore Valens and Valentinian, and a 590 020. _ Grape harvest festival was given the town of Ilok by the
A small country town, Vrpolje is Sveti) in the 18th century. Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb). bishop’s see from the 4th (first week in Sep). Austrian Emperor. In this idyllic
known as the birthplace of The central square is ∑ tz-zupanja.hr century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr setting he built a U-shaped
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović dominated by the was called Zenthelye, because mansion, Odescalchi Manor.
(1883–1962) (see p163). Cathedral of St Peter On the border with Bosnia- of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Today, the mansion houses a
Many of the artist’s works, (Sv. Petar), built Herzegovina, Županja lies along abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the restaurant, public offices and the
donated to the town he between 1866 and a wide bend in the Sava River. (Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
held in great affection, can 1882 by Bishop Josip The area has been inhabited church is one of the oldest and the centre of the with archaeological and
be seen here. In the small Juraj Strossmayer; the since ancient times; Bronze Age monuments in Slavonia. region of Srijem, famous since ethnographic collections. The
3
parish Church of St John project was the finds have been discovered in a The Civic Museum (Gradski Roman times for its wine. In wines of Ilok are still produced
Detailed Information
the Baptist (Sveti Ivan work of the Viennese necropolis. One of the first muzej), situated in the the late Roman era the here in the cellars, among them
Krstitelj, 1774) is his architects Karl Rösner Croat settlements was set up former 18th-century city grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac.
statue of St John the Bust of a Woman by and Friedrich von here. After Turkish rule it Austrian barracks in and took the name
Baptist, a relief and a Meštrović, Vrpolje Schmidt. The became one of the military the main square, of Cuccium. R Church and Monastery of
4
and Šolta. He began building founded by Brother Germano E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
the Tvrdalj in 1514, intending
for it to be both a palatial
private house and a fortified
sanctuary into which the local
of Piacenza in 1482 and rebuilt
and fortified after destruction
by Uluz Ali, the Ottoman corsair
who raided the Adriatic islands
Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766
324. open May, Jun & Sep:
10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug:
10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, 7–9pm
stone bridges spanning a narrow
canal connected to the open
sea. Dominating the village is
the 16th-century Church of St
Detailed Information
population could retreat
should there be an attack by
pirates. The Tvrdalj was
in 1571. The most feared sea
captain of his time, Uluz Ali was
driven away by the stubborn
Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt.
R Dominican Monastery
Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442.
Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified with
huge buttresses to provide
shelter for villagers in times of
on Each Sight
The main attractions are listed
intended to be a self-sustaining defenders of Korčula, and came open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of St
unit, with a garden, a dovecote to pillage the less well-defended daily; Oct–May: by appt. Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
and a seawater fishpond were island of Hvar instead. As well ptych on the main altar by Paolo
included within its walls. as a beautiful cloister, the Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin of
Stari Grad
a picturesque old quarter of
low stone houses and tiny
streets. The 17th-century parish
Church of St Stephen (Sv.
Renaissance humanist thought.
Nearby is Stari Grad’s Town
Museum, housed in the
Renaissance Biankini Palace. It
monastery church contains the
grave of Petar Hektorović.
Immediately east of Stari
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain
beaches on the outer fringes of
town. For much of its history
Jelsa was a prosperous port,
exporting the wines produced in Zavala
seaside path from Vrboska to
Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
the main towns, villages and
Founded by the Syracusans
in the 4th century BC and
originally called Pharos, Stari
Grad (literally, the Old Town)
Stjepan), with its free-standing
Venetian-style bell tower, is the
principal landmark. At the
western end of the old quarter
contains a stunning collection
of Greek amphorae, some
beautifully restored period
rooms, and a picture gallery
that still preserves the field
plan established by the island’s
ancient Greek inhabitants.
Archaeologists have revealed
the villages just inland. Steps
from Jelsa’s café-filled main
square ascend to the Gothic
parish Church of St Mary (Sv.
Zavala is the principal village of
Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
where quiet hamlets lie below
slopes covered with vineyards.
beaches on the larger islands.
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, is the Tvrdalj, the fortified devoted to local artists, that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
despite having lost its political residence of Renaissance poet including the gifted, Paris- figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is Trg through a famously low and
and cultural importance to Petar Hektorović . Hektorović is trained Juraj Plančić (1899– modern counterparts do today, svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
Hvar town. Stari Grad lies at the best known as the author of 1930). The Moira Gallery at but also grew wheat. Added to piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
end of a long bay and the main Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje Vagonj 1 shows contemporary the UNESCO World Heritage list octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
sights are scattered throughout (Fishing and Fishermen’s art and contains fragments of in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
2 0 6 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 207
Sućuraj
Stari Grad Vrboska Lying in a sheltered bay at the
SVETI KLEMENT eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
Hvar H VA R
Jelsa
Poljica 1 Varaždin is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its
wear richly decorated blue
uniforms and bearskin hats.
P Hercer Palace
Palača Hercer
VISITOrS’ CHECKlIST
Traces of occupation
Sućuraj from the Neolithic
pretty age, the
harbour boasts the La Tene To the east of the square Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
PAKLENI ISLANDS Bogomolje civilization and the Roman remains
periodof have
a fortress
beenbuilt by the
found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,0
Zavala Entomological Museum: Tel (042) 00. n Local: Ivana Padovca 3,
Varaždin Venetians
castle. Despite this, in 1630.
the first Nearby,
mention ofMlaska
the town is Drašković), built in the late 17th
Key 658 760. Open same opening times (042) 210 987; Regional: Uska 4,
Bay and Perna Bay are two of century with a Rococo façade.
ŠĆEDRO 0 kilometres 5 found in a document
Major road from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed as the palace. & 8 (042) 210 096. _ Baroque
Hvar’s best beaches, with clear The Croat Parliament met here
0 miles 5
the rights of the Zagreb Curia
Minor road shallowtowater
the thermal
over finespas
sand.in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands the Built at the end of the 18th evenings, Varaždin, (Sep–Oct);
In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it Gastrolov (Oct).
Renaissance Ritz House, one of century (the founders’ coat of
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–30 and pp240–45 For keys to symbols see back flap ∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century the oldest in the town, as arms is on the door), the palace
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by evidenced by the date (1540) has housed the well-organized Transport
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it engraved on the doorway. Entomological Section of the £ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
Civic Museum (Entomološki @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption 1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688. Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily. The bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
5
The Church of the Assumption Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
became a cathedral in 1997. From 1962 to 1980 his work was for its library of parchments,
other places of interest are listed. 658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^
It is unknown when exactly this
castle was built, though some
Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
The gallery has a large
music concerts are held here.
A.
were added. The castle was
ŠEN
5 Church of St John the
L J. GAJE
P. P
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square
OE
EV
Baptist
RE
VČ
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava
VA
O
D
RAD
PA
6 Hercer Palace Town Hall
S.
URŠU
who created a Renaissance V. LISIN
SKOG Church of TOMISLAV
VR
OV
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508. 7 Church of the Holy Trinity St John
L INSK
Ursuline SQUARE
AZ
the Baptist
IČA
Church Drašković Palace
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace The rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of 8 National Theatre
A U.
A
N DULIĆEVA
Assumption
The castle’s present look dates IĆEV
A Patačiċ
KAČ Palace
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the I Ć EVA
DRA
DEL
HAB
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John
ŠKO
GU
VIĆ
Church of
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist
EVA
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213 A
RC
AN
166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30– SA
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has CE
IN A
ZRIN
A.
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily.
SKIH
KAPUCINSKI National
TRG Theatre
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in
I FRAN
K OVA
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of 0 metres 200
Church of
KOP
the Holy
BL AŽE
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The Trinity
ANA
0 yards 200
160 C R o AT I A A R e A B y A R e A the ancient walls that existed zAg
gave R ethe
it to It1 is6 guarded
B city. 1 façade has a Renaissance
Bus
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and Station
For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp248–9 For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad) 8 . Meštrović Atelier
The great Croatian sculptor
In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have Ivan Meštrović lived in this
Gornji
18th-century building
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural from 1922 to 1941. About
Grad
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum ten years before his death
tourist offices.
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of This building dates from 1910, when the
A
A
q Viceroy’s Palace
iCA
SA
6
BA
UL
Street-by-Street Map
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the Republic.
A
iC
L
iČ
K
iČ
AT
N
oP
A
M
MARKoV
iC
TRG
UL
KA
M
EN
EV
KA
iC
constructed around
oP
These are given two full columns. The canopy is there are also fragments of
decorated with mosaics. mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
buildings, maps of national Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
the basilica, and Deacon
DISCOVERING CROATIA
The itineraries on the following pages have These itineraries are perfect for a short break,
been designed to take in as many of Croatia’s or can be used to enhance one of our longer
highlights as possible, while keeping long- tours, such as ten days spent island-hopping
distance travel manageable. First come a on the magnificent Dalmatian coast. Finally,
pair of two-day tours: one of Dubrovnik, the our two-week tour of Croatia’s riches packs a
romantic city on the Adriatic, packed with feast of historical sights and natural wonders
historical monuments; the other taking in into an exhilarating fortnight. Choose or
the national capital Zagreb and its absorbing combine your favourite tours, or simply dip
mix of museums and cultural diversions. in and out for inspiration.
IST R IA
Rovinj Krk
Olib Pag
Adriatic
Two Weeks in Croatia Sea
•
Spend a day getting •
Cool down and splash Zadar
to know Zagreb, the around beneath the Dugi
nation’s vibrant capital. cascading waterfalls of Otok
•
Wander the cobbled the Krka National Park.
streets of chic Rovinj, •
Enjoy the stone-paved
Istria’s most charming squares and streets of
seaside town. Renaissance Trogir, one
•
Admire Roman ruins of the Adriatic’s most
in Pula, the unofficial picturesque towns.
cultural capital of the •
Revel in the energy
Istrian peninsula. of Split, Dalmatia’s
•
Venture into Croatia’s biggest port and
most dramatic lakeland liveliest seaside city.
landscape, the Plitvice •
Explore historic Hvar
Lakes National Park. island, home to well-
•
Roam the centre of preserved towns and
Zadar, famous for its contemporary nightlife.
mixture of medieval •
Mix beach life with
and contemporary medieval history on the
architecture. green island of Korčula.
•
Stroll the narrow •
Leave plenty of time at
alleyways of medieval the end of the trip to Korčula island
Šibenik on the way to explore the fascinating Forested mountain slopes lead down to
its stunning cathedral. walled city of Dubrovnik. sandy beaches on Korčula, once a prize
fought over in historic naval battles.
Noon at Koločep, Jerome Miše (1931)
D I S C O V E R I N G C R O AT I A 11
Zagreb
Sa
va
K up
a Ten Days on the Dalmatian Islands
•
Explore the bustling main jumping-off point
port city of Split before for excursions to the
heading for quiet, Blue Cave of Biševo.
unspoiled Šolta. •
Enjoy medieval towns,
•
Hit the spectacular pebbly coves and great
Plitvice Lakes beaches of Brač, largest food on the slender
National Park and most developed of green island of Korčula.
the Dalmatian islands. •
Spend a day walking
•
Head for Hvar and or cycling on Mljet,
its quiet villages and home to the lakes and
idyllic coves, then enjoy forests of the Mljet
Hvar town’s characterful National Park.
local restaurants and •
Relax as you take a
lively nightlife. voyage by sea to the
•
Soak up the unique, captivating walled city
DA LMATI A far-from-the-crowds of Dubrovnik, your last
Krka atmosphere of Vis, the stop on the tour.
National Park
Šibenik
0 kilometres 50
Trogir Split
0 miles 50
Rogač Supetar
Šolta Brač
Bol
Polače
Mljet
Lastovo
Dubrovnik
Adriatic
Sea
12 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A
Day 2
Morning Stroll south from
the main square to the
Archaeological Museum (p168),
strong on prehistory and
Egyptology. The nearby Gallery
Dubrovnik Cable Car, offering stunning views of the walled city of Old Masters (pp170–71) is a
For practical information on travelling around Croatia see pp274–81
D I S C O V E R I N G C R O AT I A 13
Day 4: Rab
There are several inviting
islands in the northern Adriatic
but few are quite as idyllic as
Rab (pp84–5). Rab town, the
historic island capital, is famous
for its medieval churches and
Plitvice Lakes National Park, perfect for a lakeside walk or a bracing hike their soaring belfries, while the
nearby villages of Lopar and
then make it the excellent Kampor sit beside some of
Two Weeks in Croatia Museum of Contemporary Art, the most spectacular sandy
showpiece of a restless and beaches and shallow bays in
•
Airports Arrive at Zagreb forward-looking culture. Croatia. Don’t forget to try
and depart from Dubrovnik. the local delicacy, Rapska
•
Transport Mainland Croatia Day 2: Rovinj torta (Rab cake), a delicious
is covered by a fast and Thanks to recent road combination of light pastry
efficient bus network. You improvements Zagreb is only and marzipan.
will need to use ferries to get a few hours’ drive from the
to the islands: Split is the northern coast, where the Day 5: Plitvice Lakes
main passenger port for heart-shaped Istrian peninsula National Park
Hvar and Korčula. juts into the Adriatic. Istria is Returning to the mainland,
studded with Venetian-style scenic roads wind their way
coastal towns and Rovinj (p59) over the Velebit mountain
Day 1: Zagreb is the most charming of the range, a dramatically dry
Croatia’s laid-back capital city, bunch. With its well-preserved and rocky place on its sea-
Zagreb (pp154–71) is the ideal medieval centre, quirky gallery ward side, lush and forested
place to unwind after your scene and some of Croatia’s further east. On the far side
inward journey. A walk round best restaurants, Rovinj is the of the Velebit’s main ridge lies
the atmospheric Upper Town epitome of Adriatic chic. the stunning Plitvice Lakes
sheds light on the country’s National Park (pp88–9),
eventful history, while the Day 3: Pula a frothing sequence of
pedestrianized streets around Standing at the southern apex waterfalls, lakes and streams.
Zagreb’s main square, filled of the Istrian peninsula, the Walkways weave their way
with pavement cafés, are alive port city of Pula (pp62–5) is around the water, while trails
with strollers and socializers. dominated by the 1st-century lead into the wilder, woodland
If you only have time for Roman arena that stands in its parts of the park in the
one sightseeing destination centre, one of the largest surrounding hills.
Day 9: Trogir
Lying between Šibenik and
Split, Trogir (pp114–17) is one of
the most delightful small towns
of the Croatian Adriatic, not
least because of the medieval
cathedral that towers above the
Old Town. Trogir’s perfectly
preserved web of tiny streets
and small squares is ideal
for long evening walks; plentiful
harbour-side cafés will help
you unwind.
Rab town, capital of the island of Rab, Day 10: Split Palms and parasols outside the Church and
with its distinctive bell towers The unofficial capital of the Monastery of St. Dominic, Trogir
Adriatic and its main passenger
Day 6: Zadar port, Split (pp120–25) is one Day 12: Korčula
A short drive southwest of of those Mediterranean cities The turreted medieval town of
Plitvice, Zadar (pp94–9) is that simply bubbles with Korčula (pp138–9) is one of the
the main seaport serving the character. It was founded as a coast’s historic gems, its solid-
northern Dalmatian islands. It is retirement home by the Roman stone core of ancient houses
also one of the rising stars of emperor Diocletian, and the split by tiny stepped streets.
Adriatic tourism, with bold new remains of his palace still form Some of Croatia’s best beaches
public artworks such as Sea the core of the Old Town. lie just out of town at Lumbarda.
Organ and Greeting to the Sun Crammed with cafés and bars, Korčula is known for fine wines
by architect Nikola Bašić giving this buzzing hive of daytime and seafood, although many
the seafront of this vibrant and night-time activity village restaurants in the island’s
peninsula city a uniquely represents maritime Croatia interior serve up delicious roast
contemporary feel. There is a at its most vivacious. meats. Don’t leave without
wealth of Roman and medieval sampling cukarin, a delicious
monuments to explore, and the Day 11: Hvar local citrus-flavoured biscuit.
main food market is one of A short ferry ride from Split,
the liveliest on the coast. Hvar (pp130–33) is an Days 13 & 14: Dubrovnik
An evening stroll along the outstanding example of what After a short ferry-hop from
promenade is compulsory: makes the new Croatia so Korčula, travelling to Dubrovnik
sunsets here are spectacular. popular with visitors. Cocktail by land takes you along the
bars and yacht marinas add Pelješac peninsula, famous for
Day 7: Šibenik contemporary swank to the its red wines and oysters – stop
The main city of mid-Dalmatia, Renaissance backdrop of Hvar for lunch at Ston (p137) to enjoy
Šibenik (pp108–11), is steeped town, while elsewhere on the both. Once in Dubrovnik itself
in history, with a warren of island, sleepy villages and you will need at least a day and
picturesque alleyways jostling pebble-beached coves offer a half to get the best out of this
below an impressive ensemble up a soothing blend of rest enchanting city: see the two-
of hilltop fortresses. Local and relaxation. day itinerary on p12 for ideas.
restaurants serve outstanding
fresh seafood and superb local
wines, especially the dry red
Babić from nearby Primošten.
Dr
au
Herzegovina and the two now independent republics of Klagenfurt Maribor
Serbia and Montenegro. It is not a large country, but it has a Slovenj Gradec
wide variety of natural and man-made environments. From
a topographical point of view the country is made up of Kranj
SLOVENIA
three types of terrain. Much is mountainous, with peaks up Celje
to 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high, mostly covered with forest and
pasture. The vast Pannonian Plain lies between the rivers Ljubljana Krško
Drava, Sava and the Danube. Coastal Croatia is nearly 600 km
Ivančna
(372 miles) long, but over 2,000 km (1,242 miles) long when Gorica
ra
ob
Poreč Pazin Kraljevica
D
Ogulin
Jablanac
Bologna
Ravenna Novalija Lički Osik
Lošinj Karlobag
Pag
Silba
Forli
Adriatic Pag
Sea Nin
Rimini Zadar
Benkovac
SAN Dugi Otok
Bagno Pesaro Pašman
MARINO
di Romagna
Ancona
ITALY
Žirje
Arezzo
Civitanova Marche
Corridonia
Lake Perugia
Trasimeno
San Benedetto
Ascoli del Tronto
Piceno
Teramo
Lake Terni
Bolsena
Pescara
L'Aquila
Lake
Bracciano
Sulmona
Avezzano
Termoli
Rome
P U T T I N G C R O AT I A O N T H E M A P 17
North
HUNGARY
Sea DENMAR K
Bjelovar
Zagreb Virovitica
TUNISIA
Čazma Mediterranean
ALGERIA Sea
CROATIA
MOROCCO
Ivanić
Grad
Daruvar Osijek
Sisak Erdut
Kutina
Velika Našice
Glina Lipik
Novska Vinkovci
Novi Sad
Sa
Požega Ðakovo
va
Ilok
Kostajnica Vrpolje
Stara Slavonski Sremska
Gradiška Brod Županja Mitrovica
Bosanskj
Novi
Konjic
A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA
Croatia forms a meeting point between the Mediterranean and central
Europe, and between the Alps and the Pannonian Plain. Its relatively small
territory is made up of a wide variety of landscapes. A stunningly beautiful
country, it has re-emerged from the difficult years of conflict and regained
its role as a popular holiday destination.
National Parks
Croatia began protecting wildlife areas of particular
importance in 1949 by setting up the Plitvice Lakes
National Park on the Lika plateau. A few years later, the
Risnjak National Park was founded north of Rijeka,
then in 1985 the Krka National Park north of Šibenik.
The Paklenica National Park, at the heart of the Velebit
mountain chain, dates from 1949. In 1978 it was declared
a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO and later included
on the list of World Heritage Sites. It is home to over
2,400 species of plant. There are four national parks in Risnjak National Park with its thick forests of fir
the Adriatic: the Mljet National Park, founded in 1960, and beech
the Kornati National Park (1980), the Brijuni National Park
(1983) and the North Velebit National Park (1999). There are also nature reserves, oases, biotopes
(environments characterized by particular conditions) and two marshes: Kopački rit and Lonjsko
polje. In 2008, Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Architecture in Croatia
Croatian architecture, like its art, has also been influenced
by Croatia’s position in Europe. Secular and religious
buildings display a fusion of elements from nearby Italy
and Germany and other forms originating in the Byzantine
or Slavic worlds. This blending of influences was first
noticeable in the time of the Romans and still continues
today. Some styles became particularly important: for
example the impressive cathedrals of the Adriatic coast,
the legacy of many centuries of Venetian rule. In inland
Croatia Baroque architecture prevails, characterized by The Byzantine Euphrasian Basilica
exuberant decoration and expansive forms. in Poreč
Renaissance
The Renaissance style was only able to The second storey,
develop in those parts of the country with windows and
a statue of the city’s
which did not fall under Turkish rule. patron saint, St Blaise,
The most important architects and artists in the centre, was a
of the time were Juraj Dalmatinac (see later addition.
p24), Nikola Firentinac and Andrija Aleši,
who worked mainly along the Adriatic
The windows in
coast. They were all involved in the Venetian Gothic
construction of churches and public symbolize the ties
buildings. The cathedral of St James in between Dubrovnik
Šibenik (see pp110–11) became a model and Venice.
for the churches of St Stephen in Hvar,
St Mary in Zadar and St Saviour in
Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik (see p150) has both Gothic
Dubrovnik. Renaissance buildings also and Renaissance elements, a reflection of the time it
appeared in the north of Croatia, both took to build. It was begun in 1312 (the beautiful Gothic
in the form of private residences windows on the first floor date from this period) and
(Varaždin and Čakovec) and castles remodelled in 1516–22, when the Renaissance arcaded
(Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor). loggia on the ground floor was added.
Baroque
This was the style that characterized the legitimization of Christian
worship in Croatia after the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the
17th century. The signs of Ottoman rule were eradicated and architects,
mainly of German extraction, constructed public and private buildings,
enriching them with ornate decorations equal to those of the churches,
castles and sanctuaries. The most notable examples of the Baroque style
can be found in Varaždin, Požega, Osijek, Križevci, Ludbreg and Krapina.
Modernism
By the 19th century Zagreb had become the
centre of political and cultural life in Croatia,
which gave it a prominent role as leader in
the architectural field. Much experimentation
took place in the following century in the
capital, inspired first by the Viennese Secession
style and later by Modernism. The church of
St Blaise and Villa Krauss are interesting
examples of the latter style.
The Neo-Renaissance Mimara Museum in Zagreb
On the façade
are sculptures and
bas-reliefs by the
Croatian artists
Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović and
The former National and University Library in the centre of Marulić Square in Rudolf Valdec.
Zagreb was designed by a local architect, Rudolf Lubinsky. It is regarded as the
most significant work in the Secession style in Croatia.
28 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A
April
Spring Musical Biennial of Zagreb Summer
The arrival of spring in Croatia (Apr). Festival of modern music. As this is the season when
coincides with a series of St George’s Day, Senj (23 Apr). most tourists visit Croatia,
important dates in the religious St Vincenca’s Day, Korčula particularly Istria and
calendar. Spring brings warmer (28 Apr). The Kumpanjija Dalmatia, this is also the
weather and also sees the dance, which commemorates period when the calendar
beginning of a series of an ancient battle, is performed. of events is busiest. There
festivals and events which At the finale local girls in are festivals dedicated to
continue throughout the costume dance in a circle. music, theatre and dance,
summer. Catholic churches Regatta Rovinj–Pesaro– Rovinj, as well as many traditional
are especially busy around Rovinj (late Apr/early May). festivals. The folk festivals
Easter time, with its Sailing race to Italy and back, held throughout the
associated rituals. with various associated events. summer are particularly
colourful events.
May
Croatian Wine Exhibition, June
Kutjevo (May). Displays of Dance Week, Zagreb
Croatian wines plus a folklore (end May/Jun). International
and music programme. festival of dance, movement
Days of Hvar Theatre, Hvar and mime, organized in
(May). Annual celebration of collaboration with
Croatian literature and theatre, European associations.
as well as scientific themes and Music events, Pula (all
presentations by scientists from summer). Various events in
other countries. the Roman amphitheatre.
St Mark’s Festival, Zagreb (May). Festival of Satire, Zagreb
Sacred music at various venues. (Jun). International festival
Tournament of Rab (9 May). celebrating the satirical.
Parade of costumed riders Brodsko kolo, Slavonski
with crossbows. Brod (mid-Jun). Displays of
International Small Scene
Theatre Festival, Rijeka (first
half of May). Groups from all
over Europe participate.
Procession during Holy Week on the Josip Štolcer Slavenski
island of Korčula Memorial, Čakovec (first half of
May). Musical festival dedicated
March to the great 20th-century
Holy Week (Easter). On Korčula Croatian composer.
Easter is celebrated with Festival of Croatian Tambour
processions of brother- Music, Osijek (mid-May).
hoods performing mystery Festival of ancient music with
plays and singing. period instruments, including
Dora Pejačević Memorial, the tambour.
Našice (Mar). Music festival Croatian One-Minute-Film
commemorating this Festival, Požega (end May).
Croatian composer, with Screenings of short amateur The festival of Brodsko Kolo,
concerts and competitions. films and videos. Slavonski Brod
C R O AT I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 29
Autumn
Visiting Croatia in this season
means there are fewer crowds,
even along the busy Adriatic
coast. However this season
also offers an unexpectedly
rich and varied calendar of
events. Many of the events
are cultural but there are also
several festivals celebrating
wine and food – offering an
ideal opportunity to discover
some of the local produce of
this country.
September
Festival of the Golden
Strings of Slavonia, Požega
(Sep). Festival of folk and
Costumed jousters on horseback during the folk festival, Sinj modern music using the
traditional Slavonian
August Events include the Mostra, a instrument, the tamburica.
Pag Art Festival, Pag (Aug). traditional sword dance. At one Lace Exhibition, Lepoglava
This small island’s world-famous time the festivities ended (Sep). Exhibition of
pianist, Lovro Pogorelić, organizes with the sacrifice of an ox. traditional hand-made lace,
a two-week programme of Trka na prstenac, Barban still made according to
classical music concerts and (3rd weekend in Aug). Jousting ancient methods.
other artistic events, attracting tournament, dating back to 1696. Week of Kajkavian Culture,
international performers. Olympics of Ancient Sports, Krapina (Sep). Festival of
Sinjska alka, Sinj (beginning Brođanci (last Sun in Aug). Folk Kajkavian poetry, folk music
Aug). Folklore festival festival with traditional games, and painting.
commemorating victory costumes and musicians International Doll Festival,
over the Turks, with jousting playing in the streets. Zagreb (Sep).
competitions for horse riders. Vinkovačke jeseni,
Parades, dancing, folk music and Vinkovci (Sep). Festival
displays of regional produce. of music and folk
Baljanska noć, Bale (first Sun traditions. Parades
in Aug). Festival of the city. in costume.
Festival of the Bumbari, Grape Festival, Buje
Vodnjan (2nd Sat in Aug). (3rd weekend in Sep).
“Bumbari” is what the local Baroque Evenings
people call themselves. A folk in Varaždin, Varaždin
festival in costume with an (second half of Sep–
unusual donkey race and the first half of Oct). Festival
preparation of kroštule (crostoli), of Baroque music with
cakes of Venetian origin. the participation of
St Roch’s Day, Žrnovo and top Croatian and
Postrana (on Korčula) (16 Aug). Festival of Vinkovačke Jeseni, Vinkovci European musicians.
C R O AT I A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 31
October January
Bela nedeja, Kastav (first Winter St Vincent’s Day, Međimurje
Sun in Oct). Wine festival. The cold makes itself felt (late Jan). Join local growers
Marunada, Lovran (mid-Oct). throughout Croatia, with to toast the patron saint of
Chestnut festival. the temperatures in wine, with tastings, food
Olive Days, Punat (Oct). A great Zagreb and Slavonia and music.
opportunity to participate in the dropping well below
olive harvest festivities on the freezing point and February
island of Krk. Visitors can pick the cold bora wind Feast of St Blaise,
olives to the strains of fluting sweeping across Dubrovnik (3 Feb).
sopile music, then enjoy an Istria and Dalmatia. Processions celebrating
olive-based feast, prepared by But Croatians still the town’s saint.
competing cooks from all over love to go out and Shrovetide sezona,
Croatia, in the evening. enjoy themselves Kraljevica. Traditional
The Town’s Day, Lipik and attend masked ball.
(4 Oct). Traditional festival cultural events. Carnival of
celebrating the town. Costume at the Carnival Rijeka, Rijeka.
December of Lastovo Colourful
November The Town’s Day, Osijek parade in
St Martin’s Day, Dugo Selo, (2 Dec). Celebration of Osijek’s elaborate costumes.
Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, main feast day with music Carnival of the Riviera, Opatija.
Velika Gorica, Zagreb County and dancing. International Violin
(Nov). A traditional wine festival Advent in Zagreb (Dec). Musical, Competition (Vaclav Huml),
that celebrates the period artistic and gastronomical events Zagreb (first half of Feb).
when the must is turned are held in the city’s squares to For violinists under 30.
into wine. celebrate the Christmas season. Carnival, Lastovo.
Croatian Holidays
New Year’s Day 1 Jan
Epiphany 6 Jan
Easter Sunday and
Monday Mar or Apr
Labour Day 1 May
Corpus Christi May or Jun
Anti-Fascist Victory
Day 22 Jun
Statehood Day 25 Jun
Victory and National
Thanksgiving Day 5 Aug
Assumption Day 15 Aug
Independence Day 8 Oct
All Saints’ Day 1 Nov
Christmas 25 Dec
Boxing Day 26 Dec
A Baroque music ensemble playing in the cathedral, Varaždin
I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A 33
THE HISTORY OF
CROATIA
Situated between eastern and western Europe, Croatia has long been a land
of passage but also a point of contact between different worlds and cultures.
Diverse events and cultural influences have all contributed to the country’s
history. Croatia is particularly proud of its close ties to the West; for more
than a century, parts of the country struggled to free themselves from harsh
Turkish domination. The history of Croatia goes back almost as far as man’s
first appearance on earth.
50,000–30,000 BC
Homo sapiens Krapina man, dating 1200 BC Illyrian 279 BC Celts, now
neanderthalensis from the middle- settlement in settled in the Balkans,
lives at Krapina Palaeolithic the Balkans defeat the Greeks
390 BC Dionysius
6000–2500 BC 2200–1800 BC Bronze cap the Elder of Syracuse
Neolithic: sites Aeneolithic: sites 7th–6th captures the island
of Danilo, of Lasinje and centuries BC of Vis and founds an
Hvar, Butmir Vučedol administrative post
AD 1 100 200
The Barbarian Invasions and the Constantinople, but they were defeated
Crisis of the Roman Empire by the Byzantines. Some of the troops
In 378, after a century of relative peace, returned to the Asiatic steppes, while
the Goths invaded Pannonia and then others settled between the Danube and
turned towards Italy. From that time, and Tisza rivers, leaving the field clear for the
for the entire 5th century, the Balkans were Slavs who occupied Moravia and Bohemia
attacked by the Huns, Vandals, Visigoths to push southwards and towards the
and Longobards, which finally caused the Adriatic, conquering all the Roman cities
fall of the Roman empire in 476. and destroying Salona (614). The Slavs
settled in the countryside or in what
The Avars and Slavs in the Balkans remained of the sacked cities. These people
The beginning of the 6th century saw cultivated the land and bred livestock and
invasion by the Avars, who were followed formed extended family groups (županija)
by other Slavic tribes. Those Roman with a župan at the head of each.
inhabitants who did not manage to flee
to the mountains or the islands were The Bulgars and the
captured and sold as slaves. In 582 the Byzantine Reconquest
Avars conquered and destroyed Sirmium The Slavs’ expansion to the south was halted
(Sremska Mitrovica), one of the ancient by the Bulgars, a people of Turkish origin,
capitals of the Roman Empire. Later they who settled along the final stretch of the
also subdued other nomadic tribes and Danube. After the fall of the Western Empire,
organized a powerful army to conquer Byzantium attempted to reconquer the
Roman bust 378 Ostrogoths 437 Dalmatia comes 500 The Slavs occupy
recovered conquer and under the rule of Pannonia, which would
from ancient destroy Mursa Constantinople; the become Slavonia
Mursa (Osijek) Huns invade and
conquer Pannonia
T H E H I S TO R Y O F C R O AT I A 37
899 Hungarians enter the 930 The Byzantines renew the union 1000 Venice’s first armed naval
Balkans and destroy the with the coastal towns and cities that expedition against pirates near
cities of the Croats, who pay taxes to the emperor mouth of Neretva river; towns on
seek refuge in Dalmatia islands and coast of Istria and
925 Tomislav allegedly becomes king Dalmatia declare allegiance to Venice
of the Croats with the pope’s blessing
T H E H I S TO R Y O F C R O AT I A 39
1091 Ladislaus, king of Hungary, brother 1222 With the Golden Bull the king of
of Zvonimir’s widow, unites Croatia and Hungary, Andrew II, guarantees the
the Hungarian kingdom rights of the Croatian nobility,
surrendering some of his power
1075 Zvonimir is crowned king to the aristocracy
of Croatia by Pope Gregory VII
40 I N T R O D U C I N G C R O AT I A
Turkish Domination
The Kingdom of Hungary went through
a long period of dynastic crisis when the
house of Arpad died out after the death of
Andrew III in 1301. There were numerous
contenders for the crown, provoking fierce
battles until 1308 when Charles Robert of Ottoman army in the Battle of Mohács
1409 After a costly war against Sigismund 1493 Croatian troops are
of Habsburg, Ladislaus of Anjou becomes defeated at Krbavsko Polje by
king of Hungary and Croatia. He sells Jacub, a Pasha of Bosnia
Dalmatia to Venice
1520 Marko Marulić writes Judita, the
first work written in Croat
T H E H I S TO R Y O F C R O AT I A 41
World War I
In 1914, with the assassination of
Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo,
World War I broke out, which caused
the dissolution of the Habsburg
Empire. Croatians paid dearly for their
involvement in the war, as did many
other countries, but finally the Croatian
population was able to free itself
Flag of the Hungarian-Croatian Imperial regiment from foreign rule.
World War II
Initially, Yugoslavia supported the Axis,
but a military revolt removed the king
of Yugoslavia, and the country was then
invaded by Nazi troops. A kingdom of
Croatia was established, which was to
be governed by Aimone of Savoy, but in
reality it was an independent state led by
Assassination of King Alexander in Marseilles (1934) Pavelić. Italy took control of the islands and
cities of the Dalmatian coast. Resistance
From the State of Slovenes, gained ground in all of Yugoslavia led by
Croats and Serbs to the Kingdom the Communist Party and its chief, Marshal
of Yugoslavia Tito: from 1941 to 1945 Croatia was
Croatia proclaimed independence in 1918, bloodied by war and internal conflicts that
but a few months later agreed to be part of caused hundreds of thousands of deaths.
a state formed by Slovenes and Serbs under
the Serbian dynasty of Karađorđević. The Marshal Tito
Treaty of Rapallo (1920) allotted Istria, Zadar, At the end of the war the state of Yugoslavia
the islands of Cres, Lošinj, Lastovo and was reunited, and regained land granted
Palagruža to Italy, followed in 1924 by Rijeka. to Italy after World War I (see p51), as well
The discontent of Croatians led many to join as the area of
the People’s Peasant Party, led by Stjepan Prekomurje and
Radić until he was shot and fatally wounded a part of
in parliament in Belgrade in 1928. The revolts Baranja, which
which broke out in Croatia were repressed were both
and in 1929 King Alexander abolished the Hungarian at
constitution and then established the the time.
Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The assassination of In 1948, the
the king in Marseilles (1934) by a member break between
of a Macedonian revolutionary group the Yugoslav
working with the Ustaše (Croatian fascists), Communist Tito with his wife and son in a photo
led by Ante Pavelić, increased tension, and Party and the from 1927
1991 Slovenia and Croatia abandon 1995 Erdut Agreement: 2015 Kolinda Grabar-
Republic, Croatian land inhabited by Serbs Slavonia and Krajina are Kitarović is elected Croatia’s
is occupied by Yugoslav People’s Army: administered by the first woman president
war between Serbia and Croatia begins United Nations
2010 Ivo Josipović elected President
CROATIA
AREA BY AREA
Croatia at a Glance
Croatia is a fascinating country with great ethnic, historical
and architectural diversity as well as varied topography.
The north had close ties with the former Austrian empire,
and the bell towers alongside 19th-century Baroque
churches and buildings have a Viennese look. The eastern
side marks the start of the Hungarian plain with broad
rivers and houses with overhanging roofs. The Adriatic
coast is quite different, with its indented coastline fringed
with lovely islands. The coastal cities reflect the centuries- St Mark’s Square
old Venetian culture with churches, monasteries, palaces (pp160–61), with its Gothic
church of the same name, is
and forts testifying to the brilliance of the late Middle Ages the heart of the Gornji Grad
and the greatness of the Renaissance period. district in Zagreb and the
city’s oldest square.
Zagreb
ZAGREB
(see pp154–71)
Karlovac
Rijeka
Poreč
Ogulin
ISTRIA AND THE
Barban
KVARNER AREA
(see pp50–89)
Senj
Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč Pula
(pp56–7) has marvellous
mosaics, some of the best-
preserved examples of Jablanac
Byzantine art in Croatia. Amphitheatre, Pula
Lički Osik
(pp64–5)
Otrič
Posedarje
Plitvice Lakes National
Zadar
Park (pp88–9) is one of
nature’s natural wonders DALMATIA
with 16 lakes surrounded (see pp90–153)
by woods. The cascading
waterfalls create an Šibenik
impressive display
of light and colour.
Zagorje, west of
Varaždin, towards the
border with Slovenia, is
a fascinating area with
vine-covered hills,
thermal spa towns
and castles.
Varaždin
0 kilometres 50
Sisak
BARANJA
(see pp184–201)
Đakovo
Slavonski Brod
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
(p180)
Ploče
Dubrovnik
C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A 51
Until 1000 BC, the region was inhabited by With the Treaty of Vienna in 1815,
Illyrians. From 42 BC Istria became part of Austria-Hungary extended its domain
the Roman empire, when the Province of to include Venetian lands. Rijeka
Dalmatia was founded. Cities were built developed into an industrial port under
along the coast and on the islands, and Austro-Hungarian rule and is still today
many traces of Roman presence remain. a hub for Croatian shipping. Close by
Pula has a well-preserved amphitheatre in Opatija the Habsburgs built elegant
dating back to the 1st century, the sixth- villas and planted lush gardens for
largest arena of its kind in the world. their winter holidays.
With the fall of the western Roman In 1918 Istria briefly became part
Empire, much of the eastern Adriatic coast of the new kingdom of Serbs, Croats
came under the control of Byzantium. The and Slovenes, which subsequently
intricate, well-preserved golden mosaics became Yugoslavia in the same year.
of the 6th-century basilica of St Euphrasius Many Istrian towns have two official
in Poreč survive from that time. names, an Italian and a Croatian one,
In 1420 the area came under Venetian rule, a legacy from 1920, when Istria was
a situation which was to last until 1797, when given to Italy as a reward for having
Napoleon dissolved the Venetian Republic. joined the Allies in World War I. During
Nearly 400 years of Venetian rule are recorded World War II, the region became a
by 15th-century open-air loggias, elegant bell stronghold for Italian partisans. After
towers and buildings with Venetian-Gothic 1943, most of Istria was given back
windows, built by wealthy merchants. to Yugoslavia.
The Roman amphitheatre at Pula, one of the best preserved Roman theatres in the world
Lake and falls, Plitvice Lakes National Park
52 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Trieste Tršće
Trieste Re Ljubljana
ka
Rupa PRIMORSKO -
UMAG
(UMAGO)
GORANSKA
Crni Lug
RISNJAK
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK
TOUR OF Delnice
Grožnjan KASTAV
F O RT I F I E D T T H E Matulji
Mirna OWN
Motovun S
OPATIJA
NOVIGRAD RIJEKA
(CITTANOVA)
I STA R S K A Boljun
LOVRAN BAKAR
POREČ KRALJEVICA
(PARENZO) PAZIN
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN CRIKVENICA
Omišalj
VRSAR Brestova
(ORSERA) Dvigrad Šilo
PLOMIN Porozina
SVETVINČENAT
ROVINJ LABIN NOVI
(ROVIGNO) KRK VINODOLSKI
Rabac
BALE BARBAN
(VALLE) Valbiska Krk
Krk
Venice
Merag
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Baška
BRIJUNI Plavnik
r
FAŽANA(FASANA)
NATIONAL
ne
PARK
ar
Lubenice
Kva
Kv
PULA(POLA) Lopar
CRES Rab
RAB
rn
Kampor
Rab
er
Cres
Dolin
ić
Osor
Getting Around Unije
The roads are good; there is a motorway
linking Rijeka to Zagreb, as well as from Nerezine
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger Pag
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO)
ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Lošinj
summer season – these take cars also. Buses Mali Lošinj Veli Lošinj
Susak
link all the main towns and there’s a bus that runs Zadar
from Pula to Trieste, while trains link Rijeka and
Zagreb, with connections to the south of Croatia. Ilovik
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 53
Karlovac
Ferry route
lik
Summit
a
Vrbovsko
Ravna
Ka
Gora
pe
la
Bjelolasica
1534m
Karlovac
M
a The rocky coastline near Rovinj
la
Brinje K Karlovac
SENJ a 0 kilometres 30
p
Ga el
na
ck 0 miles 30
Kora
a
a
Plitvice
PLITVICE LAKES
Otočac
Lukovo NATIONAL PARK
Korenica
lj
Jablanac
Ve
e
še
LIČKO - SENJSKA
v
l e
ic
a
b
Lički Osik
i
Ozeblin
1657m
t
Lik Udbina
Gospić a Donji
Karlobag Lapac
Zadar Gračac
. Ciborium
Dominating the presbytery is a
beautiful 13th-century ciborium,
supported by four marble
columns. The canopy is
decorated with mosaics.
. Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
the basilica, and Deacon
Claud with his son.
KEY
Interior
The entrance leads to a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
large basilica with a central
Practical Information
nave and two side aisles.
Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
The 18 Greek marble
Tel (052) 429 030. Open call
columns have carved
ahead for opening times. &
capitals featuring animals,
some of Byzantine origin
and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
of Euphrasius.
Baptistry
This octagonal building dates
from the 6th century. In the
centre is a baptismal font and
there are also fragments of
mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
Atrium
This has a roughly
square portico with two
columns on each side.
Tombstones and a variety
of archaeological finds
dating from the medieval
period are displayed
in this area.
58 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Environs
Just outside Vrsar lies
Koversada, Europe’s largest
naturist resort.
To the south of Vrsar, towards
Rovinj, is the Limski Channel, Boats docked at the harbour in Rovinj
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 59
9 Fažana (Fasana)
Map A3. * 3,900. k Pula, 8 km
(5 miles). £ Vodnjan, 5 km (3 miles).
4 to the Brijuni Islands. n 43
istarske divizije 8, (052) 383 727.
∑ infofazana.hr
GRUNJ
VANGA
Key
Minor road
Native Animals
Numerous indigenous animals also
live freely in the park: fallow deer, 0 metres 800
moufflon, roe deer, hares, peacocks
0 yards 800
and about 200 species of wild bird.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 61
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map A3.
Tel (052) 525 888.
Individuals and groups must
book on an excursion, which
includes the boat crossing.
Bicycles can be hired.
Open always, but access
limited to crossing times.
& 8 ∑ np-brijuni.hr
Ancient Trees
Hundreds of different plant species from all over the world were Transport
planted on Brijun. Many of the trees, like this ancient olive, are 4 from Fažana.
now fully mature and are regarded as living monuments.
Roman Villa
Excavations have unearthed the
foundations of a Roman villa, its
calidarium (hot room) and a
frigidarium (cold room). A large
room where the family met for
banquets and ceremonies is
decorated with mosaics.
BRIONI
GOLF COURSE
VELIKI BRIJUN
GREATER BRIJUN
KEY
1 The fort of Mali Brijun is situated
on the second-largest island in the
archipelago. The Austro-Hungarian
fort was built at the end of the
Brijuni 19th century.
2 The museum, opened in 1955,
contains cultural and archaeological
finds from the island.
3 In the area around Brijuni
PUSTI harbour hotels and a golf course
have been built.
4 The Tegetthoff Fortress is
a ruined Austrian defence system
which was built in the 19th century.
5 The White Villa (Bijela Vila) dates
from the Venetian period. It was
restored in 1721. This was Tito’s
summer residence and was used for
receptions and political meetings.
Rt Ploče
Byzantine Castrum
On the western coast, in
the gulf of Dobrika, are
Peneda
the ruins of a complex
of buildings dating from
the Byzantine era
(539–778), with towers
and walls for defence.
For keys to symbols see back flap
62 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
q Pula (Pola)
Pula is well known for its magnificent monuments from
the Roman era, when it was a colony known as Pietas
Julia. It became an episcopal seat in 425 and still has the
foundations of some 5th-century religious buildings. It was
destroyed by the Ostrogoths, but flourished again when
it became the main base for the Byzantine fleet in the 6th
and 7th centuries: the cathedral and chapel of St Mary of
Formosa date from this time. In 1150 it came under Venetian
rule, but by the mid-17th century the population had
declined to 300. It was revitalized in 1856 when Austria
made it the base for its fleet. Today, Pula is a university
town and, with Pazin (see pp66–7), the administrative
centre of Istria.
The Cathedral’s interior, a combination of
styles and periods
R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane example of Roman architecture,
Uspon B. Lupetine 5. built on simple lines, with six
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–1pm, plain columns and beautiful
4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass. carved capitals.
Built at the same time as the
adjacent monastery in the late R Cathedral
13th century, this church has a Katedrala
fine doorway with a Gothic rose Trg sv. Tome 2. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–
window. The interior is a single 1pm, 4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass.
nave with three apses; on the The Cathedral, dedicated to
main altar is a splendid wooden the Blessed Virgin Mary, was
15th-century polyptych of the founded in the 5th century
Emilian school. Various exhibits after Pula became an episcopal
Arch of the Sergians, 1st century BC from the imperial Roman era can seat. Its present appearance
be seen in the monastery cloisters. dates back only as far as the
T Arch of the Sergians 17th century. However, parts
Slavoluk obitelji Sergijevaca T Temple of Augustus of the walls, some of the capitals
Ulica Sergijevaca. Augustov hram and the windows are from the
The arch was erected in the Forum. Tel (052) 218 603. original building. On the right
1st century BC on the orders Open Apr–Jun: 9am–9pm Mon–Fri, is a doorway from 1456, while
of Salvia Postuma Sergia, to 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; Jul & Aug: 9am– the bell tower, which was built
honour three brothers who 10pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; by 1707, contains stone blocks
held important positions in the Sep: 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm from the amphitheatre.
Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: by appt. &
Roman Empire. The arch is small
with fluted columns, a winged Built in the 1st century AD, this R Church of St Nicholas
Victory and Corinthian capitals. temple stands in the square Sv. Nikola
Its frieze has a bas-relief depicting which was once the site of the Castropola 39. Open for Mass.
a chariot pulled by horses. Roman forum. It is a splendid n (052) 212 987 (tourist office).
Next door is a bar named This church dates from the 6th
Uliks (“Ulysses”), in memory century but was partially rebuilt in
of James Joyce, who lived the 10th century. Towards the end
here for six months in 1904. of the 15th century it was assigned
to the Orthodox community.
R Chapel of St Mary Inside are some fine icons from
of Formosa the 15th and 16th centuries.
Kapela Marije Formoze
Maksimilijanova ulica. + Castle & Historical and
Closed to public. Maritime Museum of Istria
A small Byzantine chapel built Povijesni i pomorski muzej Istre
on a Greek cross plan, this was Gradinski uspon 6. Tel (052) 211 566.
once part of the large Basilica Open Jun–Sep: 8am–9pm daily; Oct–
of St Mary of Formosa. Inside May: 9am–5pm daily. &
are remains of mosaics from Temple of Augustus, a jewel of This star-shaped castle with four
the 6th century. Roman architecture bastions houses the Historical
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
PULA (POLA) 63
and Maritime Museum of Istria former German school, within VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and was built by the Venetians a park which is reached from
in the 17th century on the ruins the Twin Gate. On display are Practical Information
of the Roman Capitol in the city finds from Pula, with collections Map A3. * 60,000. n Tourist
centre. The walls linking the four from the prehistoric era to the office: Forum 3, (052) 219 197.
towers offer views over the city. Middle Ages. On the ground _ Music events in Arena,
Nearby are remains of a small, floor are architectural remains, Pula Amphitheatre (summer),
2nd-century Roman theatre. mosaics, altars and other Croatian Film Festival (summer).
∑ pulainfo.hr
exhibits from antiquity to
T Twin Gate medieval times. Transport
Dvojna vrata The rooms on the first floor k 8 km (5 miles), (052) 530 105.
Carrarina. contain exhibits from the g Jadroagent, (052) 210 431.
The gate, from the 2nd–3rd Neolithic to the Roman era. £ (052) 541 722. @ 43 istarske
centuries, has two arches with Three rooms on the second divizije, (060) 304 090.
an ornate frieze. Nearby floor are dedicated to Roman
are parts of the wall antiquity. Highlights of this
which once encircled collection include a headless T Gate of Hercules
the city. female statue found at Herculova vrata
Nesactium, near Pula). Carrarina.
E Archaeological Two rooms at the The arched Gate of Hercules,
Museum of Istria museum have exhibits built in the 1st century BC, is
Arheološki muzej Istre from the late Classical the oldest and best-preserved
Carrarina 3. Tel (052) 351 to medieval periods. Roman monument in the city. At
301. Closed for renovation Of particular interest the top of the arch is a carving of
untill 2018. & 8 by appt are pieces from the head of Hercules with a club.
= ∑ ami-pula.hr Slavic tombs dating
This museum is Headless Statue, from the 7th to the T Amphitheatre
housed in the Archaeological Museum 12th centuries. See pp64–5.
V IJ E
4 Temple of Augustus
FLA
5 Cathedral
6 Church of St Nicholas
7 Castle & Historical Harbour A
V
and Maritime Museum ER
O
LI
of Istria A
Amphitheatre SC
8 Twin Gate
I S TAR S K A
SV
A
. IV
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S V.
TA
AN
VA EA
RI FIT
TEO
AM
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Cathedral
VA
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ERO
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LO N O
VA
KA St Nicholas
IČE
CA
O LA
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OP
BR
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ST
R Theatre
CA
DO
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Town
A
Hall Archaeological
Castle Museum of Istria
Temple of ZADAR
and Historical SK A
Augustus Gate
Church of Museum of Istria of Hercules
FORUM
St Francis
Roman
I
Mosaic
IN
FL
ZA
RD
KA
GR
AC
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Arch of
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Church of
AR
the Sergians
CL
TRG
LAG
0 metres 200
Market
TKA
LS KA D O B R IL I N A 0 yards 200
NA
MA
SE
AR
Pula Amphitheatre
Amfiteatar
Four Towers
The roofs of the towers
were designed to collect
the scented water that
was sprayed onto the stalls.
It is also thought that
there was a structure
capable of supporting
large awnings as protection
from the sun and rain.
Amphitheatre Wall
The well-preserved external wall of the
amphitheatre has three floors on the side facing
the sea, and two on the opposite side, because
it was constructed on an incline. At its highest
point, the external wall measures 29.4 m (96 ft).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
PULA (POLA) 65
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Flavijevska ulica. Tel (052) 219
028. Open summer: 8am–9pm
daily (to midnight Jul & Aug);
winter: 9am–5pm daily.
& 7 limited access.
Arches
The first two floors have 72
arches, the third has 64 large
rectangular openings. The
arches lit the internal corridors
which enabled spectators to
move from one sector of the
amphitheatre to another.
KEY
w Barban in the village are found here, Around 1000 AD, two castles
Map B3. * 250. k Pula, 28 km including the 15th-century were built on neighbouring
(17 miles). £ Pula. @ from Pula. Church of the Annunciation hills and were later enclosed
n Barban 69, (052) 567 420. which contains two paintings by an oval wall. A village of
_ Trka na prstenac, Tournament by Palma il Giovane and an some 200 inhabitants grew
of the Ring (3rd weekend in Aug). Annunciation by Giuseppe up here around the basilica
∑ tz-barban.hr Porto-Salviati. of St Sophia, built between
The Castle dates from the the 11th and 12th centuries.
A free town in the late 13th century and is one of the Although attacked and
Middle Ages, in the 13th best preserved in the region. burned by the Genoese in the
century Barban came It belonged to the Venetian 14th century during the war
under the rule of the families of Castropola, with Venice, the village soon
county of Pazin, and the Morosini and the recovered. In the 17th century,
from 1516 until 1797 Grimani. In 1589, sacking by the Uskoks (see
it was part of Venetian the Grimani p83) and a malaria epidemic
territory. It was commissioned the depopulated the village. It has
granted to the architect Scamozzi not been inhabited since then.
Loredan family in to convert one of the
1535, and many square towers into
buildings acquired Church of the a residence for the
their current Venetian Annunciation, Venetian governors,
look. The town still has Svetvinčenat the other into a
some medieval fortifi- prison. High walls
cations which now incorporate connecting the other two round
several Renaissance buildings. towers enclose a large internal
The Church of St Nicholas courtyard. This is reached
(Sv. Nikola) faces the square, through the citadel’s only gate, Reconstruction of a room in the
which is reached through the which at one time had a Ethnographic Museum, Pazin
Great Gate (Vela Vrata). The drawbridge. The town’s coat of
church has five marble Gothic arms and that of the Grimani r Pazin
altars and many Venetian family can also be seen here.
paintings (16th–18th centuries), The town’s name derives Map B2. * 5,300. £ (052) 624 310.
@ (060) 306 040. n Franine i Jurine
one attributed to the Italian from the Romanesque church
and cemetery of St Vincent 14, (052) 622 460. ∑ central-istria.
artist Padovanino.
com/pazin
In the same square is the (Sv. Vinčenat), whose walls
Loredan Palace from 1606 and, were frescoed by an unknown
towards the Small Gate (Mala 15th-century artist. The town of Pazin originated
Vrata), the Town Hall, dating in the 9th century as a fort
from 1555. R St Vincent and stands on a cliff 130 m
Outside the Great Gate is Cemetery. Tel (052) 560 004. (426 ft) high. One side of the
the 14th-century Church of Open by appt. cliff falls away to an abyss,
St Anthony (Sv. Antun), with which is 100 m (328 ft) deep
frescoes from the 15th century. Environs and about 20 m (65 ft) wide,
In 1976, the Tournament of About 10 km (6 miles) away and is said to have inspired
the Ring was revived and are the ruins of Dvigrad Dante’s description of the
costumed lancers on horses (Duecastelli), an atmospheric, Gateway to Hell in Inferno,
participate in this traditional abandoned walled village, as well as Jules Verne’s novel
annual event. surrounded by lush vegetation. Mathias Sandorf.
R St Nicholas
Tel (052) 567 173. Open by appt.
e Svetvinčenat
Map A3. * 300. £ Pazin. @ from
Pula. n Svetvinčenat 20, (052) 560
349. ∑ tz-svetvincenat.hr
o Mošćenice p Lovran
Map B2. * 330. k Rijeka, 53 km Map B2. * 4,000. k Rijeka, 50 km
(33 miles), on the island of Krk. (31 miles, island of Krk). £ Rijeka,
£ Rijeka. n Aleja Slatina bb, 20 km (13 miles). @ Opatija, 6 km
Mošćenička Draga, (051) 739 166. (4 miles). n Trg slobode 1, (051) 291
∑ tz-moscenicka.hr 740. _ Asparagus Festival (Apr);
Cherry Days (Jun); Marunada,
This small village was founded chestnut festival (mid-Oct).
by the Liburnians on a small ∑ tz-lovran.hr
hilltop. The structure of the
medieval town is still evident, The town of Lovran (whose
with houses pressed against name derives from the laurel
the walls, narrow streets, small trees which are common
alleys and courtyards. There are throughout the area) extends
lovely views over the Kvarner along the coast until it meets
Old Town square of Plomin, surrounded by Gulf from the village. the long seafront at Opatija (see
lush green trees In the main square is p69). The old part of the town
the Church of St Andrew is situated on a small peninsula
i Plomin (Sv. Andrije), a building of along the coast. The houses in
Map B3. * 140. k Pula, 54 km
medieval origin which the ancient fortified town lean
(34 miles). £ Rijeka, 55 km (34 miles). was rebuilt in the against the enclosing walls,
n Vozilići 66, Vozilići; (052) 880 155; Baroque style in the of which only a very few
Regional: Pionirska 1, Poreč, 17th century. Inside parts and sections remain:
(052) 452 797. are some statues by just a tower and the
the Paduan sculptor Stubica Gate. In the main
An ancient fortified town once Jacopo Contieri. Just square, as well as a
stood here on the site of the outside the walls are medieval tower there
Roman town Flanona, which the small Church of are several houses with
was destroyed by the Avars in St Sebastian from the Venetian Gothic façades
the 6th century. It was rebuilt 16th century, and the and also the Church of
after 1000 AD and took on its 17th-century Church St George (Sv. Juraj), built
present look in the 13th century of St Bartholomew. in the 12th century and
after it had become Venetian The history of the area rebuilt in the Baroque
territory. Plomin, built on a is documented in the period, along with
sheer cliff 168 m (550 ft) above Ethnographic Museum a Romanesque bell
the bay of the same name, was (Etnografski Muzej). tower. Inside the
once densely populated. Statue by Contieri, church church, on the vault
Houses take up nearly all E Ethnographic of St Andrew, Mošćenice and the arch of the
the space inside the walls Museum apse are some late-
(from the 13th–14th centuries Tel (051) 737 551. Open summer: Gothic frescoes (1470–79)
and only partially preserved). 9am–1pm, 6–9pm daily; winter: depicting the life of Christ and
Worn, narrow roads climb 11am–3pm daily. Closed Jan & Feb. several saints. A building with a
towards the centre, where figure of St George stands in the
the 11th-century Romanesque Environs main square and is worth a visit.
Church of St George (Sv. Juraj) A series of steps leads down Along the coastal promenade,
stands. Inside is a tablet in to Mošćenićka Draga which extends between
Glagolitic script also dating (2 km/1 mile), where there Lovran and the village of Ika,
from the 11th century, one is a large pebble beach. stand several beautiful early
of the oldest documents
in this ancient Slavic script
extant in Croatia.
The Church of the Blessed
Virgin Mary (Crkva Blažene
Djevice Marije) also contains
treasures of artistic merit. The
church was consecrated in
1474, but was greatly altered
in the 18th century. There are
three Baroque altars in carved,
painted wood and a rich
church treasury. A fresco by
Albert, a German painter from
Konstanz, was found on the
wall during restoration work. Old mill at the Ethnographic Museum, Mošćenice
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 69
Istarske
Toplice
Račice
Livade
Pazin
5 Draguć
Medieval walls form the backs of the
houses in this village. Ramparts were built
by the Venetians after 1420. The 16th-
century Church of St Roch has a series of
frescoes, including a Journey of the Magi.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3 6 Motovun
This medieval town stands on a hill dominating the
Key valley. The Old Town is still encircled by an original
Tour route
13th–14th-century wall. Later, a second wall was
built around the suburbs. An internal gate, under a
Trail of the Glagolitics 15th-century tower, leads from the Lower Town to
Other roads the Upper Town.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 71
Ročko Polje
J
1 Boljun
The village still has some of its medieval walls, the
16th-century ramparts, a tower and a water
trough from 1697. The grain store, loggia and the
RomanesqueChurch of SS Cosmas and Damian
J Lupoglav
are on the main road. Gothic paintings can be
seen in the 14th-century Church of St Peter.
Dolenja Vas J
Vranja
Opatija
Pazin
Train Station A
RIJ
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LC
KA
A
TR ŽR TRSAT
PIM Capuchin Church TA
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PIL
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VA Lady of Lourdes C Arch Š IZM
SU
TRG
ŽABICA A
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JADRANSKI Town MATR O
Bus YE SS
FRA
Station TRG
OLD TOWNK Cathedral
TRG OV
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REPUBLIKE KA
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KO
City
RI AD Church of
VA AM RZ Tower
O the Assumption
Ferry IČ
Dock EV
A
A
Church of JELAČIČEV
AR
TRG
St Nicholas
UM
IV
AN
FI
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A
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KO
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Croatian
RI
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TR
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A Theatre
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
The narrow island of Cres is 65 km (40 miles) long. In the Practical Information
north, a colony of native griffon vultures, protected by law Map B3. * 3,200. 4 (051) 211
444. n Cres: Cons 10, (051) 571
since 1986, nests on a plateau swept by the dry, cold bora 535; Osor: (051) 231 547.
wind. The south is milder and olives and vines are grown. ∑ tzg-cres.hr
A single road travels from the north of Cres to the south of
Lošinj, linking the islands by a bridge. Tourism focuses on
just a few villages such as Cres and Osor. remains and some splendid
monuments, making it a centre
of great artistic interest.
The beautiful 15th-century
Cathedral of the Assumption
was completed in 1497 and is
built of honey-coloured stone.
The façade has an arched
tympanum above a doorway
with a relief of the Virgin Mary.
Inside the church there is a
painting of SS Nicholas and
Gaudentius on the altar.
The Cres Museum (Creski
muzej) occupies the Arsan Palace
Dry stone walls and olive groves overlooking the town of Cres and has stone inscriptions and
interesting finds from the Illyrian
Cres Town The walls and the three gates and Roman periods, and the
Cres nestles in a bay with stone arches give the early Middle Ages. The façade of
Porozina sheltered by the hill town a Venetian feel, and the the Bishop’s Palace (second half
Beli behind. The town Church of Our Lady of the of the 15th century) bears coats
became important Snow has paintings by artists of arms of the bishops and
when the bishopric from the Venetian school. nobles of the island and the
J
and governor’s The 16th-century Town Hall, interior is richly decorated.
seat were or Loggia, is now a fruit and Some walls, foundations and
transferred here vegetable market. mosaics are all that remain of
from Osor. The old port is a lively place, the Church of St Peter.
bustling with fishermen and
visitors. The Town Gate, a clock E Cres Museum
tower and several Renaissance Creski muzej
buildings face the port. Petris-Arsan Palace, Ribarska 7.
Cres Tel (051) 344 963. Open Apr–mid-Jun
Plavnik The Church of St Isidore & mid-Sep–mid-Oct: 9am–noon Tue–
(the patron saint), dates Sat; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 10am–1pm &
from the 12th century. 7–11pm Tue–Sun; mid-Oct–Mar: by
appt. Temporary exhibitions: hours
Osor vary, phone ahead. Closed Mon.
Lubenice Until the mid-15th century
CRES this was the main town on
the island, with a port and a
Vidovići bishopric. It later declined and
the capital was moved to Cres.
Today the entire town is a
museum, with Bronze Age
Štivan Belej
Key
Minor road
Scenic road
Nerezine
Osor
0 kilometres 8
0 miles 8
Osor
Environs Susak
The island of Susak is
renowned for its unusual 0 kilometres 6
geology: a 10-m (33-ft) layer 0 miles 6
Ilovik
of sand covering a calcareous ILOVIK
Hranilište
Osmatračnica
Klada
Gmajna
Markov
Brlog
9 Observatory
From this viewing platform
the behaviour of animals
such as bears, foxes, lynxes,
martens and wild cats can be
observed in the woods. There
are also many birds, both non-
migratory and birds of passage.
Towards evening at certain
times of the year, eagles, hawks
and crows can also be seen. Leska
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 77
5 Beech and
Fir Forests
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The trail goes
Practical Information
through woods
Map B2. n Bijela Vodica 48, Crni
of fir and beech
Lug, (051) 836 133, (051) 836 261.
trees; many of
Open summer: 7am–10pm daily;
the trees are very
winter: 7am–9pm daily. & 8
large. The under
The Leska trail is 4.2 km (2.6 miles)
growth consists of
long, easy and well signposted.
hazelnut, bilberry
It takes about 2 hours to cover.
and elder bushes.
∑ risnjak.hr
4 Mountain Meadows
The areas which
were deforested for
agriculture or grazing
land for animals are now
mountain meadows. In
late spring they explode
with the varied colours
of heather, purple
moor grass, fescue
and other grasses.
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
1 Conservation of Trees
The protection of the older, larger
plant species was one of the reasons Crni Lug
the reserve was set up. Within the park
are examples of enormous ancient
beech, spruce and silver fir trees, and
also some rarer trees, such as the
mountain elm and maple.
2 Storm Damage
When strong winds blow down
old or sick trees, they are left
where they fall as they provide
suitable growing conditions for
microorganisms such as fungi.
This is the largest of the Adriatic islands, with an area of Practical Information
409 sq km (158 sq miles). A bridge links the island to the Map B3. * 17,860.
n Krk island: Trg sv. Kvirina 1, Krk,
mainland, built to provide good connections to the island’s (051) 221 359; Krk town: Vela
international airport. Along the eastern coast the island placa 1, (051) 221 414; Baška:
looks almost ghostly, its white rocks swept by the bora Kralja Zvonimira 114, (051) 856
wind. Inland and on the more protected western coast, 817; Njivice: Ribarska obala 10,
(051) 846 243. ∑ krk.hr
there is rich, lush vegetation.
Transport
k (051) 842 040.
4 Valbiska: (051) 863 170;
Baška: (051) 856 821.
Byzantine mosaic, Euphrasian Basilica, Poreč For keys to symbols see back flap
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 81
Košljun
Just offshore from Punat, this
small islet is best known for its
Franciscan monastery, where
for centuries the monks have
collected not just sacred objects,
but all manner of valuable and
curious items. Its zoological
collection is noted for its assem-
bly of seashells, and among the
library’s 30,000-odd titles is one
of only three surviving copies of
the atlas of Ptolemy, printed in
Venice in 1511. The Frankopan castle in Bakar, dominating the village
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
82 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
x Crikvenica
Map B2. * 5,800. k Rijeka, 16 km
(10 miles), island of Krk. @ Nike
Veljačića 3, (060) 300 100. n Trg
Stjepana Radića 1c, (051) 241 051.
_ Oily fish week (Jun); Trade fair of
Croatian products (Jul); Town festival
(Aug). ∑ rivieracrikvenica.com
The Uskoks
In 1526, shortly before the Battle of Mohács, numbers of Christians from the
hinterland fled to the safer coastal cities to escape the Turks. The refugees were
called “Uskoks” (“the ones who jumped in”) and their main desire was to fight
those who had taken their land; and they carried out a highly successful guerrilla
war. Initially they were organized by Venice around the fortress of Klis, from which
they attacked the Turk-occupied land. In 1537 the Turks conquered Klis. Some
Uskoks went to Primošten, but the main nucleus settled in Senj, under the rule of
the Habsburgs, who encouraged them to procure fast boats in order to plunder
the heavy Venetian ships. When Austria also slowed down operations against the
Turks, the Uskoks took up piracy and started sacking coastal towns. At the end of
the war between Venice and the Ottoman empire in 1617, the emperor was
forced to remove the Uskoks from the coast and they and their families were Relief in the Museum of
transported to the west of Zagreb, to the Žumberak mountains. the Uskoks, Senj
Environs
The small village of Jablanac
lies 37 km (23 miles) south of
Senj. This bustling place is a
good starting point for visiting
the Velebit massif.
Jablanac is a well-preserved
Nehaj Castle, dominating the town of Senj town and worth an unhurried
visit. It was a county seat and its
King of Hungary. As defence the Baroque period. It has representatives met in the med-
against the Turks, the tombstones with Renaissance ieval castle. The castle was built
Habsburgs established the reliefs and Baroque works, by the Ban (governor) Stjepan
first station of the Military including an altar decorated Šubić, as was the church and
Frontier (Vojna krajina) here. with four marble statues. its cemetery, both known from
This stronghold had a powerful A short distance from the documents from 1251. The castle
outer wall which is now only square is the Vukasović Palace is now in ruins. Nearby, the port
partly preserved. which houses the Civic of Stinica is a departure point
After the Battle of Mohács in Museum (Gradski muzej Senj), for ferries to the island of Rab.
1526, many Uskoks from Sinj and a museum of local history. The To the east of Jablanac is
Klis came to Senj, and were palace was once the residence the Sjeverni Velebit National
co-opted by the local Austrian of an Uskok captain. Flanking Park (Nacionalni park Sjeverni
governor in the fight against the the roads of the town and in Velebit) where there is an
Turks. Their presence is recorded the Small Square (Mala placa), interesting Botanical Garden
in Nehaj Castle, a fortress built also known as Campuzia, are (Botanički vrt) founded in
on a square plan, constructed in Renaissance buildings such as 1966 on the slopes of Mount
1553–8 by the Uskok captain the Town Hall with its splendid Zavižan at an altitude of
Ivan Lenković on a hill a short loggia. Nearby is the Leon tower 1,576 m (5,169 ft).
distance from the town. It was
positioned so as to sight
approaching ships. The well-laid-
out Museum of the Uskoks is on
the first floor of the fort, and has
an excellent view over the bay.
In the southern part of the
wide bay is the main square,
called Cilnica. Facing the
square is the Frankopan palace,
built in 1340 and altered in the
19th century. There are also
large salt warehouses, and,
further in, the Cathedral of
St Mary (Sv. Marija), built in the
13th century and altered in The picturesque harbour of Jablanac, south of Senj
84 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
P Prince’s Palace
Knežev dvor
Trg Municipium Arba, Rab. Tel (051)
724 064. Open call for opening times.
The port and the town square
are the heart of Rab, and this is
also where the Prince’s Palace
was built in the 13th century in
the Romanesque style. It was
later enlarged in the Gothic
style and then rebuilt in the
Renaissance style. It has
Sea Gate, one of the ways into the Venetian Gothic windows and The bell tower of the Cathedral of St Mary
town of Rab Renaissance mullioned the Great
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 85
RAB
J
Rab
Barbat na Rabu
Key
Pudarica
Major road DOLIN
Minor road Mišnjak
Polyptych by the Vivarini, Church of
St Bernard, Kampor
For keys to symbols see back flap Spectacular, well-preserved walls of Pula’s amphitheatre
88 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Ciginovac
Prošćansko
jezero
Okrugljak
Labudovac Stubica
Footbridges
Numerous footbridges and rowing
boats enable visitors to get from one
shore of a lake to another and are a
lovely way to access and explore the Galovac
fir, pine and beech forests.
KEY
Gradinsko
jezero
1 Dense forests alongside the Isola
waters are home to some of the
largest European species of animal,
including wolves, lynxes, foxes,
wild boar, roebucks, wild cats, otters
and badgers. Gliborita
Pr ijeka draga
2 The bird life is extremely varied: Kosa
160 species have been recorded,
including the eagle, marsh harrier,
peregrine falcon, hoopoe, kingfisher,
heron, little owl, and tawny owl.
3 Along the banks of the
River Korana, into which the lakes
drain, are a few shepherds’ huts and Velika
Poljana
several sawmills, which are run on
hydraulic power. The river flows
between steep cliffs in a spectacular
natural landscape. Entrance 2 Zadar
4 The park vehicles, shuttle
buses, take visitors around the area 0 metres 500
on special routes.
0 yards 500
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
ISTRIA AND THE K VARNER AREA 89
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C3.
n (053) 751 014, 751 015.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8
7 limited access.
∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr
Flora
The park flora is very varied, from waterlilies on the lakes to forests
of gigantic trees. There is also a rich undergrowth of shrubs, a
source of food for wildlife.
Plitvice
Draga
Matijaševac
Karlovac
Milanovac
Jezero
Kozjak
Gavanovac
Karlovac
Medvedak Entrance 1
Waterfalls
Key It is possible to follow
Major road signposted routes, which
Route for park vehicles
lead to viewpoints for
watching the rushing
Footpath waters as they cascade
Boat route from the lake above.
For keys to symbols see back flap
C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A 91
DALMATIA
Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in
the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of
this Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there
of war, the Romans managed to conquer followed a second flowering of the arts,
the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and and the sculptors, architects, painters,
integrate them into their system. For writers and scholars of this period laid the
over three centuries the region enjoyed foundations for the future development
a period of prosperity which was of Croatian culture, art and literature.
eventually brought to an end by the In late spring, when the Jadranska
arrival of peoples from Asia, including magistrala coast road has yet to be
the Slavs in the 7th century. invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
In 915, after a long period of wars and must be one of the loveliest parts
unrest, the first Croatian kings founded of Europe. From Karlobag the road
a new state, blessed by papal authority. winds along the edge of the Velebit
New public and religious buildings, walls mountain chain and the Dalmatian
and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards
to flourish, and trading with the Italian is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
coast increased. This was a period of Pag and further along are the islands
great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and
the collapse of the Croatian state and its finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long covered in vineyards and maquis
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.
Exploring Dalmatia
To the north is Zadar, with its exceptional monuments, and
the islands of the Zadar archipelago, the southern part of
which is designated the Kornati National Park. The road travels
on to Šibenik, with its perfectly preserved Old Town centre and
splendid cathedral, and Trogir, an architectural jewel. The ruins
of the Roman town of Salona are just outside the city of Split,
which developed within the Palace of Emperor Diocletian. The
coastal road turns inland to cross the delta of the Neretva and
reaches Ston, a point of access to the peninsula of Pelješac.
Finally, on a rocky spur stands the medieval city of Dubrovnik,
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Karlovac
Senj
Otočac Bell tower of the Cathedral, Zadar
Udbina
Rijeka
Novalja Karlobag Gospić
Pag Ve
Pag
le
PAG bi
t Vaganski Vrh
1757m Gračac
Silba
PAKLENICA
Olib NATIONAL PARK Sučevići
Jasenice
Privlaka Ljubač Obrovac
Posedarje
Molat NIN ZADARSKA
ZA Sestrunj
DA
RK
KNIN
R ZADAR Troglav
PA
Ancona AR Bibinje
Benkovac
Kistanje Biskupija
1913m
C H Ugljan
NATIO RKA
NAL
IP
EL Vrlika
Perućko
A G Pašman
K
VIS
Getting Around
Pescara Vis
The most comfortable way to visit Dalmatia
is by car, which allows you to stop when and Svetac
Biševo
where you like. Traffic is always heavier during
the summer holiday months. Cities and towns
are not directly connected by railway, but buses
are frequent and run between almost all the Sušac
towns. The main coastal towns and the more
important islands are linked by frequent ferry
connections (see pp278–9). Yachts can be hired
for cruising along the coast (see p258).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 93
HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
• ZAGREB
BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
ADRIATIC
SEA
Locator Map
Sights at a Glance
1 Zadar pp94–7 q Sinj g Opuzen
2 Zadar Archipelago w Klis h Narona
pp98–9 e Primošten j Neum
3 Kornati National Park r Marina k Pelješac Peninsula
pp100–1 t Trogir pp114–17 l Korčula pp138–40
4 Nin y Salona pp118–19 z Badija
5 Paklenica National u Split pp120–25 x Lastovo
Park i Šolta c Mljet National Park pp142–2
6 Pag pp104–5 o Brač v Dubrovnik pp146–53
7 Krka National Park p Vis pp128–9 b Elaphite Islands
pp106–7 a Hvar pp130–33 n Cavtat
8 Šibenik pp108–11 s Omiš m Konavle
9 Drniš d Makarska
0 Knin f Gradac
Livno
Imotski
Mostar
Cista Provo
Bio
ko
Brač vo
Sumartin MAKARSKA
Rocky offshore islands seen from Velebit
D ALMATIN S K A Vrgorac
Zaostrog
Živogošće
NARONA
GRADAC
Sućuraj
Metković 0 kilometres 30
HVAR Ploče
Trpanj OPUZEN 0 miles 30
Orebić
Korčula Korčula
NEUM
Blato PELJEŠAC
BADIJA PENINSULA
Vela
Luka KORČULA Ston Slano
DU B R OVA Č K O-NER ET VA N S K A Trsteno
Mljet DUBROVNIK
LASTOVO MLJET ELAPHITE
NATIONAL PARK ISLANDS CAVTAT
Lastovo
KON Podgorica
Bari AVLE
Molunat
1 Zadar
Originally Illyrians inhabited this narrow peninsula,
but its present layout dates back to Roman rule, when
the straight roads and forum were built. It became an
important municipium, and a port for the trading of timber
and wine. In the Middle Ages it was the main base for the
Byzantine fleet. Venice and the king of Hungary fought
over Zadar in the 12th–13th centuries but in 1409, King
Ladislaus of Hungary sold his Dalmatian islands and cities
to Venice for 100,000 ducats. Zadar became Zara and
enjoyed a spell of prosperity; churches and palaces were
built. After World War I, Zadar was ceded to Italy by the
Treaty of Rapallo, but many Italians left after the forming
of Yugoslavia in 1947. Zadar was repeatedly bombed Roman arch forming the Sea Gate
during World War II and suffered considerable damage.
P Sea Gate
Vrata sv. Krševana
R Church of St Simeon This complex construction is the
Sv. Šime result of rebuilding work carried
Trg Petra Zoranića 7. Tel (023) 211 out by Michele Sanmicheli
705. Open 8:30am–noon Mon–Sat. in 1573 on a Roman arch
Originally constructed in dedicated to the Sergi family.
Romanesque style, the church On the seaward side is the lion
was rebuilt after 1632 to house of St Mark and a memorial stone
the remains of the saint, which recalling the Battle of Lepanto
are kept in a silver reliquary. (1571). On the inner side of the
This impressive work, nearly 2m gate is a stone commemorating
(6 ft) long, was made between Pope Alexander III’s visit in 1177.
1377 and 1380 by Francesco da
Milano and bears reliefs showing R Church of St Chrysogonus
scenes of St Simeon’s life. Sv. Krševan
The medieval tower, Bablja Kula, part of Poljana pape Aleksandra III.
the ancient wall R Museum of Ancient Glass Closed for restoration.
Muzej antičkog stakla Prior to AD 1000 a church
P Land Gate and Walls Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1. and monastery were built by
Kopnena vrata Tel (023) 363 831. Open summer: Benedictines on the site of
The Land Gate was built in 1543 9am–9pm daily; winter: 9am–4pm the Roman market. While the
by the great Veronese architect Mon–Fri. & ∑ mas-zadar.hr church, rebuilt in 1175, has
Michele Sanmicheli as the Housed in the restored survived with few alterations,
entrance to the city. The gate Cosmacendi Palace, this the monastery was destroyed
has a large central aperture and museum displays a large in World War II. At the height of
two smaller openings at the number of ancient Roman the monastery’s splendour it
sides, divided by four white glass objects found on possessed a rich library and a
stone pilasters supporting four archaeological sites in Zadar scriptorium, famous for its
half-columns. and its surroundings. transcribed and illuminated
Above the main gate is a relief works. The three-aisle church,
of St Chrysogonus on horseback P People’s Square
and the lion of St Mark, symbol Narodni trg
of Venetian rule. Beyond the The Town Hall, which was built
gate are a few remains of the in 1934, faces the square, as
ancient walls, the former does the Renaissance City
Venetian arsenal, and Liberation Loggia (Gradska loža) built by
Square (Zoranićev trg or Trg Michele Sanmicheli in 1565 as
Petra Zoranića) with a Roman the city courts. It is now used
column in the centre. for exhibitions.
On one side of the square Nearby, the 16th-century
stands the medieval tower of Town Guard Palace houses
Bablja kula. At the base are five the Ethnographic Museum,
fountains (Trg pet bunara), with collections of costumes
which once supplied water and objects from the
to the city of Zadar. entire county. Church of St Chrysogonus
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
ZADAR 95
7 Archaeological Museum RA
RO
Franciscan Church of KA
KA
E
Monastery St Elijah AT Cathedral
8 Church of St Mary and M of
III
St Anastasia RA
Museum of Sacred Art A ND Church of
Church of KS St Chrysogonus
9 Forum
E
O
AL
BA
St Donat
LA
Archaeological
0 Church of St Donat p97 Foot-
KR
Museum bridge
AL
FORUM
q Cathedral of St Anastasia Market
JA
Church of St Mary RA
BO
w Sea Organ and Greeting and Museum SA ČA
of Sacred Art G PEOPLE’S VI
KO
EL
I RA
AT
AB
BA
LIB
M
ET
AL JA
UR
R
E
D JU
NS
Museum of
KO
Loggia
KA
TR
Ancient Glass
OM
OB
PE
Church of
Za
AN
AL
TR
St Michael
A
IČ
da
ĆA
ŠP
Church of
KR
AI
IR
r
KL
E
St Simeon O B A
EŠ
BR
LA
Ch
ST
K
T O M IS R A L J A
IM
US
OM
L AVA
IN
IRA
an
OR
Captain’s
IC
Tower
A
ne
IV
Vladimir
Nazor Park
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
Key
1 Altar of the Holy Sacrament 6 Main altar and ciborium
2 Baptistry 7 Bishop’s chair
3 Roman pilaster 8 Chapel of St Anastasia
0 metres 15
4 Sacristy 9 Souls of Purgatory altar
5 Choir stalls 0 Bell tower 0 yards 15
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
ZADAR 97
Dome
The cylindrical, conical
dome rises in the centre
of the church to a height
of 27 m (88 ft).
Exterior
The church is built of honey-
coloured Dalmatian stone, much
of which came from the old
Roman Forum.
SESTRUNJE
SILBA
MOLAT
IST Sestrunj
Zapuntel Brgulje Molat
ŠKARDA Ist
PREMUDA
J
Premuda Božava Dragove
Veli Rat
0 kilometres 10
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 99
Kukljica Pašman
Ugljan Neviđane Tkon
Preko Banj
J
UGLJAN PAŠMAN
IŽ Mali
Veli Iž
Key
Minor road
Sali Path
DUGI OTOK
Sali The Kornati Islands
R SA
O VE
PR
A
AL SVRŠATA
KORNAT
M
TELAŠĆICA KATINA
Lučica
Vrulje
LEVRNAKA
MANA
PIŠKERA
Key
Path 0 kilometres 10
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 101
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C4.
n (022) 435 740. &
∑ np-kornati.hr
Transport
4 from Biograd, Murter,
Primošten, Rogoznica, Vodice,
Zadar. (Organized trips only.)
SMOKVICA
J
LAVSA
KURBA VELA
4 Nin
Map C4. * 1,500. k Zadar, 24 km
(15 miles). £ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles).
@ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles). n Trg
braće Radić 3, (023) 264 280. ∑ nin.hr
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 103
5 Paklenica
National Park
Nacionalni park Paklenica
Map C4. n Starigrad Paklenica, (023)
369 202, 369 155. Open Apr–Oct:
6am–8:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:
7am–3pm daily. & ∑ paklenica.hr
6 Pag
The island of Pag is 68 km (42 miles) long and has two
mountain chains running parallel to the coast: at the southern
end cliffs frame a deep bay with numerous inlets. The island
was inhabited in the Neolithic Age, and was occupied by the
Liburnians in around 1200 BC. When Dalmatia was conquered
by Publius Cornelius Scipio in the 1st century AD, the Romans
built the town of Cissa and the fortified port of Navalia here.
In the Imperial period, villas were built and some mosaic
floors and an aqueduct still survive. The Slavs settled in Pag
in the 6th century and became sheep farmers. After 1000 AD
Zadar and Rab fought over the island to gain control of the Sheep grazing on Pag
salt pans (see p102). When Cissa was destroyed by the
inhabitants of Zadar, the islanders chose a new location for a covered in maquis, olive groves
town, Stari Pag, which was fortified by the Venetians in 1192. and aromatic herbs, particularly
sage. As well as the production
of olive oil and a distinctive wine
called Žutica, sheep farming is
one of the main occupations on
the island. Pag is famous for its
sheep’s cheese (paški sir), which
has a distinctive taste thanks to
the aromatic herbs in the
grazing. The cheeses are coated
with olive oil, and undergo
lengthy maturation.
Pag Town
The small main island town
occupies a sheltered bay facing
The dry, barren east-facing coast, swept by the bora wind the mainland. It was granted the
status of a free town by King Bela
Exploring Pag colour, is exposed to the bora IV in 1244, but rivalry with Zadar
The island, connected by a wind and bears little vegetation. brought about its destruction.
bridge to the Magistrala coast The typical dry-stone walls were The walls, the castle, a monastery
road (E65) at its eastern tip, near built to protect the land from the and the Church of St Mary in the
Miškovići, is dry and barren, with wind and to separate the flocks Old Town are in ruins. In 1409,
only a few areas cultivated of sheep belonging to different Pag came definitively under the
with vines and olive trees. The farmers. The southwest coast is a rule of Venice.
coastline facing the mainland, little flatter with some small In 1443 the Venetian rulers,
rocky and jagged and white in beaches. Here the land is with the assistance of local
Magis
trala
coast
road
Tovarnele Kovači
Žigljen
Karlobag
Stara Novalja
PAG Metajna
Novalja
Pag
Gorica
Mandre
Košljun
Key ŠKRDA
Major road MAUN
0 kilometres 5
Minor road
Scenic route 0 miles 5
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Lace, Symbol of the Traditions of Pag
Map C4. * 8,400. n Pag: Od
Pag is renowned for its clean waters and its delicious špitala 2, (023) 611 286; Novalja:
sheep’s cheese, but it is also well-known for its lace. For Trg Briščić 1, (053) 661 404;
centuries this lace has been created by the patient hands Karlobag: Trg dr. Tuđmana 2, (053)
of the women of the island who, in warm weather, sit 694 251. _ Lace exhibition
by their doorsteps intent on creating this intricate lace. (summer); Carnival of Pag (Feb &
Typical Made using a special stitch, the lace is used to decorate last weekend in Jul).
pag lace blouses, bedlinen, altar cloths and table centrepieces. ∑ tzgpag.hr
Some decades ago a school was established here to train ∑ tz-novalja.hr
new lacemakers. A collection of antique lace was left to the school ∑ tz-karlobag.hr
by former lacemakers and the examples are used as models. Lace Transport
is sold here and some of the rooms are set up as a museum. 4 Prizna-Žigljen, Pag.
Kraljevica
Zadar
Kraljevica
Dinjiška Zadar
Vlašići
Povljana
Skradin
Once a settlement of Ðevrske
Illyrian and Liburnian
tribes, then a Roman town,
Ðevrske
Skradin was a bishop’s see
from the 6th century. It is
one of the main access
Smrdelje
points to the park; boats
go upriver from here to
the waterfalls.
Ićevo
Entrance 2 Bribirske
Mostine
Bribirske
Mostine
KEY Rupe
Bratiškovci
1 The lower basin becomes a
pool of emerald-green water in the
summer and is an attractive place
to sunbathe or picnic.
2 Around the lake families of
egrets and night herons can be Prukljan
seen perched on the branches of Visovačko
Jezero
the willows or hidden among the Dubravice •
reeds. About 200 species of bird
have been counted here.
Prukljansko
3 Krka monastery was first Jezero
mentioned in 1402. Skradin
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 107
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C–D4.
Park: n Trg Ivana Pavla II br 5,
Šibenik, (022) 201 777.
Open summer: 8am–7pm;
winter: 9am–4pm (Apr, May,
Oct, Nov: 8am–6pm). &
Roški slap Monastery of Visovac: can be
Here the river widens and deepens within the forest before visited on organized boat trips
finally cascading from between the trees, producing waterfalls from Skradinski buk.
of over 25 m (82 ft). ∑ np-krka.hr
Gračac
.
Brljansko .
. Jezero
.
Knin
Kistanje .
Vrbnik
Nečven
Drniš
Čitluk
Mratovo
ka
Kr
Oklaj
River Čikola
After Lake Visovac, the Krka is
Širitovci joined by the River Čikola and
from here the river flows
towards the Skradinski buk
Monastery of and then on to the sea.
Visovac
Drniš
Drinovci
P Old Loggia
library with manuscripts Gradska loža
and liturgical material in Trg Republike Hrvatske.
the monastery. In front of the cathedral’s Door
of Lions stands the Old Loggia,
R Church of formerly the seat of the city
St Barbara council, built between 1532 and
Sv. Barbara 1543 to a design by Michele
Kralja Tomislava. Sanmicheli, and restored after it
Tel (022) 214 899. Museum: was damaged during World War II.
Open May–Oct: 9am–1pm, This is a two-storey structure:
5–7pm; Nov–Apr: by appt. the ground floor is an open
The small Church of portico with nine large arches,
St Barbara, behind the the upper floor is a loggia, with
Cathedral of St James Cathedral of St James, a balustrade.
was built around the
R Church of St Francis middle of the 15th century, and
Sv. Frane conserves parts of an older
Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1. Tel (022) 201 building. Irregular openings
480. Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily. make the façade unusual: the
Along the busy seafront, on lunette on the main door has a
the southern edge of the Old statue of St Nicholas from the
Town centre, once stood the workshop of Bonino of Milan
Monastery and Church of (1430). Inside is an altar made
St Francis, founded in 1229 and by a youthful pupil of Juraj
destroyed during a raid in 1321. Dalmatinac, Giovanni da Pribislao,
Some capitals, a few statues, who was obliged to match The 16th-century Old Loggia, designed by
and parts of the arches in the another altar which had been Michele Sanmicheli
cloister remain of the original saved from the previous church.
structure. Towards the middle The church also houses a rich Y Medieval Mediterranean
of the 15th century several and interesting collection of Garden of St Lawrence
new chapels were added on. religious art, with paintings, Monastery (MMG)
The buildings were completely sculptures and illuminated Srednjovjekovni samostanski
rebuilt in the Baroque style texts dating from the 14th to mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre (SSMV)
around the middle of the 18th the 16th centuries. Trg Republike Hrvatske 4. Tel (022)
century. The church underwent 212 515. Open summer: 8am–11pm
complete renovation: the wood- E Count’s Palace – Civic daily; winter: 9am–4pm daily.
en ceiling and the sumptuous Museum Maintained by the children of
gilded carved wooden altars Muzej grada Šibenika a local high school, this garden
were remade, and every wall Gradska vrata 3. Tel (022) 213 880. is one of Šibenek’s most popular
was decorated with paintings. Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat. attractions. The MMG follows
Inside, in the first chapel on This palace takes its name from a medieval design and has a
the left, is a great organ from the Venetian Count Niccolò varied assortment of flowers,
1762, made by Petar Nakić. The Marcello who built it in the herbs and plants that create a
large cloister has kept its 14th- 12th–13th century. It was the dazzling combination of colours.
century structure and there is a Venetian governor’s residence Capers have been planted in the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
ŠIBENIK 109
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D5. * 37,000. n Local:
Ulica Fausta Vrančića 18,
(022) 212 075; Regional: Fra
N. Ružića bb, (022) 219 072.
∑ sibenik-tourism.hr
Transport
k Split, 97 km (60 miles).
£ (022) 333 699. @ Draga 44,
(060) 368 368, (022) 216 066.
4 Dr. F. Tuđmana 7, (022) 213 468.
BL
4 Cathedral of St James
OV
O
TV
G
RĐ
AČ
pp110–11 T
AV
KA
PU
PRO
OM
INC
KN
KRA
5 Old Loggia
IN
MI
SK
A
NS
6 Medieval Mediterranean
KA
LJA
V A
NO
O B AL A N A C A
OM LA DI
St Lawrence
L E VLA
ZV
LUCE
AN
ON
7 Fort of St Michael
RI
K
D
NI
JE
KA
Cathedral ČI
IM
ĆA Church of
of St James Old St Chrysogonus
IRA
Loggia DO
Count’s Palace – N Church of
Civic Museum KR St John
S
KR
TE
AL A
Church of AR I Ć A
ST
JA ID O V
O
St Barbara TO N
ŠI
BO R
AŽ
MI
Ć
T E Barone
A
SLA P E
VA Fortress
LE JIC
NE
TRG PAVLA
JE AL
ŠUBIĆA
KR
A
Ć
ZLARINSKI VI Church
R AKO
PROLAZ
O
of the
K
SV. N . TA I Ć A
BA
rk
Ascension
BA
LA
a
Theatre
JA
O
US K O
R
VEL
JU
SL
O
POLJANA
BO
ČK
D
A
EN
JA
Transept
The transept is surmounted with a
square structure below the dome;
on three sides is an arch bearing a
statue. The stones were worked in
such a way that they fitted together
without the need for mortar.
KEY
Façade
The symmetrical façade has an
arched tympanum in the centre.
The taller central section has a rose
window in the centre and a smaller
one above on the tympanum. The
façade is framed by two pilasters
and has only one door.
Interior
The three-aisle interior is divided by columns
with carved capitals supporting pointed
arches. The tall central nave has a frieze
and women’s gallery.
112 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
9 Drniš sculptor (see p163) built the here on Mount Spas. It was used
Map D4. * 3,400. £ Šibenik, 25 km Church of the Most Holy by reigning Croat monarchs,
(15 miles), (022) 333 699. @ Šibenik, Redeemer here for himself and who often stayed in the nearby
(022) 216 066. n Domovinskog rata his family. It is simply designed town of Biskupija and held
5, (022) 888 619. ∑ tz-drnis.hr in the form of a stone cube with coronations here.
a shallow dome. Early in the 11th century
The town of Drniš first appears Knin became a bishopric
in documents towards the end and the residence of several
of the 15th century, as the site aristocratic Croatian families.
of a fort built to stop a Turkish Occupied by the Turks in the
invasion, at the point where the early 16th century, in 1688
River Čikola cuts into the valley Knin fell to the Venetians.
and flows down towards Šibenik. The Morlachs, in the pay
In 1526 the fort was captured of Venice, distinguished
and enlarged by the Turks, who themselves in the battle to
made it one of their outposts. retake the fort by scaling the
A village with a mosque and walls. Afterwards they rebuilt
baths developed around the the fort and settled in the town.
fort, but during the wars In 1991, the Serbian army
between Venice and the used the fort when most of
Ottoman empire, from 1640 to the inhabitants of Croat origin
1650, the fort and the village were forced out. It became a
were almost entirely destroyed focus for the Serb rebellion
by the Venetians. In the recon Church of the Most Holy Redeemer in and the Republic of the Serb
struction that followed the Otavice, near Drniš Krajina, of which Knin was the
mosque was remodelled capital, was created. In August
and became the Church of 1995 the territory was returned
St Anthony. The minaret became 0 Knin to the Croats.
the bell tower of the church of Map D4. * 12,000. £ (022) 663 722.
St Roch. Serbs populated the n Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, (022) 664 Environs
town and it became part of the 822. ∑ tz-knin.hr About 5 km (3 miles) away is
Krajina territory. Biskupija, once known as the
Along the road from Drniš to A town on the main road from “Field of five churches”, for its
Šibenik, the ruins of defence Zagreb to Split, Knin has long religious buildings (9th–11th
structures with high walls and played an important role in centuries) attended by the
a tower can be seen. Dalmatia’s history. It occupies a Croat kings. King Zvonimir
strategic position on the plateau, was killed here by Croat
Environs and there have been defences of nobles who did not accept his
Some 9 km (5 miles) east some kind here since prehistoric allegiance to the pope. By the
of Drniš is the village of times. In the 10th century, when main building is a church
Otavice, the birthplace of Ivan the town was known as Ad designed by Ivan Meštrović
Meštrović’s parents. The great Tenen, the Fort of Knin was built and frescoed by Jozo Kljaković.
q Sinj
Map D5. * 11,500. £ Split. @ Split.
n Put Petrovca 12, (021) 826 352.
_ Madonna of Sinj Festival (Aug);
Sinjska alka jousting tournament
(1st Sun Aug). ∑ visitsinj.com
Civic
NIN
GRADSKA
A RADOVANOV
IK Museum
A
TRG
EN
UČ E VA
M BIC Čipiko Cathedral of
SU St Lawrence
IH Palace
T SK
TRG IVANA
VA M ATI J E G U P C A Town
HR Stafileo
PAVLA II
Hall
Palace Loggia and
KA Clock Tower
MO
S Church of
AU
SI NJ
St John the Baptist
GU
RN
S T IN
E IVANA DUKNOVIĆA
TSK
AR
GRADSKA
R VA
OB
HR
EH
AK
TIC
VA
SK
RO
St Mark’s MA
TS
Walls
KO
Tower
ŽOT
G
IĆA
AR S
KOV
JEČ
VU Market
A
19
71
Church of RI VA
Marmont’s Small
Kamerlengo St Dominic Loggia
Gloriette Castle
ERI SL AV I Ć A
B A NA B
OB AL A
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
y Salona
The ancient town of Salona, 5 km (3 miles) from Split, is
famous for its Roman ruins. The name Salona (or Salonae)
is of Illyrian origin, but its meaning is unknown. Originally
an Illyrian settlement, it did not become an important centre
until the Romans built a town next to the Greek city. During
the rule of Augustus it became a Roman colony called Martia
Iulia Salona, and later it was the capital of the province of
Dalmatia. In the 1st and 2nd centuries AD the Romans built
an amphitheatre, a theatre, temples, baths, a Forum and town
walls reinforced with towers, and Salona became the richest
and most populated city in the mid-Adriatic. In the mid-7th
century, the Avars and the Slavs destroyed it and it fell into
disuse. The buildings and the churches were stripped and
the stone was used for new buildings. Narthex connecting the two basilicas
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
u Split
Shipyards, factories and a busy port present the modern face
of Split, which expanded unchecked after World War II. The
Old Town centre is still full of charm however; it grew up in
and around the Emperor Diocletian’s vast Roman palace, one
of the largest and best-preserved left from the Roman world.
In 614, the palace took in refugees from Salona (see pp118–
19), which had been razed by the Avars, and these newcomers
began to use the Roman structure as housing. Among the
refugees were the bishop and other religious dignitaries,
who breathed new life into the bishopric of Split. After two
centuries of Byzantine rule and the establishment of Croat Baptismal font in the Baptistry of St John,
communities, Split became part of the Venetian territories in former Temple of Jupiter
1409. Under the Venetians, fortifications were built, including
new walls, and the arts flourished. R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
See p123.
abandoned parts of the
Diocletian complex. It P Silver Gate and Church
houses an exhibition of St Dominic
with various artistic Srebrna vrata i Sv. Dominik
finds, paintings and Hrvojeva ulica. Church of
books illustrating the St Dominic: Open am.
city’s celebrated history Near the Silver Gate there is a
from the 12th to the market, a wonderful chaos of
18th centuries. seasonal fruit and vegetables,
homemade cheeses, hams and
P Peristyle dried herbs. Because of the
The peristyle, the interior open space, this also provides
courtyard, of Diocletian’s the best view of the Palace of
Palace is an impressive Diocletian. It is still possible
part of the complex to distinguish the different
The port and the seafront of Split where the layers of structures of the complex, and
centuries of building can part of the guards’ corridor, on
P Golden Gate clearly be seen. The slim columns the walls, can be walked along.
Zlatna vrata bordering three sides rest on In front of the gate is the
This was the main entrance to a high plinth and have finely Oratory of St Catherine, built
Diocletian’s Palace (see p122) and worked capitals. The access to in the Middle Ages. It was used
was the most impressive of the the former private quarters of by the Dominicans while they
gates, with towers and decorative Diocletian has a tall arched built their own monastery
elements above the arches. In tympanum and relief decorations. (1217). The oratory was rebuilt
the 11th century, the corridor in the 17th century and became
between the palace and the gate R Baptistry of St John the Church of St Dominic
was closed and turned into the Sv. Ivan Krstitelj (Sv. Dominik). Inside the church,
Church of St Martin (Sv. Martin). Tel (021) 345 602. which was enlarged in 1930, are
An inscription commemorates Open 9am–7pm daily. a Miracle in Surian by Palma il
Father Dominic, the founder. This small, beautiful building, Giovane and an Apparition in the
consecrated in the 6th century, Temple, attributed to his school.
E Split City Museum was the Palace’s Temple of
Muzej grada Splita Jupiter. Inside, the baptismal P Brass Gate
Papalićeva 1. Tel (021) 360 171. font incorporates a pre- Mjedena vrata
Open Apr & May: 8:30am–9pm daily; Romanesque panel of King Ethnographic Museum: Iza Vestibula
Jun–Sep: 8:30am–10pm daily; Oct: Zvonimir and other dignitaries. 4. Tel (021) 344 164. Open Jun–Sep:
8:30am–9pm Mon–Sat, 9am–5pm The statue of St John on the 9:30am–8pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–
Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, end wall is by Ivan Meštrović 1pm Sun; Oct–May: 9am–4pm
9am–2pm Sun. & ∑ mgst.net Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. & 7
and was added before World
∑ etnografski-muzej-split.hr
The Gothic Papalić Palace, War II. The tomb of Bishop John
housing the Split City Museum, is from the 8th century and the Although the Brass Gate is plain
is one of the most interesting one in front of it, that of Bishop and faces the sea and port, it
of the 15th–16th-century Lawrence, dates from the opens on to the richest façade of
buildings constructed in the 11th century. the palace. The upper floor had a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
SPLIT 121
GR
EB
A
Č
K
KRA
A
LJA
VA
N IG TOM
ERO ISLA
TO
VA VA
Strossmayerov
D O MAL D OVA
K R U ŽI Ć E VA
ON
Park
ĆA
VA
RM
ŠKA
KRA Golden
NO
ČI
J
DE Gate
AN
S V. M AR
OBROV
LA
LA
MA
IJE
M Town Hall
BOS
N TRG
A
JE
BA Fish
OV
REPUBLIKE
Market
AN
NA
PEOPLE’S DO CARRARINA
M IN POLJANA
CIJ
Z AD A R S
KLE
VA Split City
A
PA P
D IO
KR A Museum
JEV
L IĆ
VA
EŠI E VA
ŠUBIĆE
DO MI
RO
IĆE
VA
VO
BR
Church of IĆ
RUL
YLE
PO
VA
St Francis
HR
KR LJAN
MA
A A
IS T
Baptistry J E L L J IC E
BRAĆE RADIĆA EN
of St John
PER
E
SQUARE Silver Gate
Museum of Croatian Cupola and Church
Archaeological Monuments, Cathedral of of St Dominic
Meštrović Gallery St Domnius
Main Hall
RI Diocletian’s
VA
Palace Food
Market
Brass
Gate
Harbour
Train station
200 m (220 yards)
0 metres 100 Key Ferry port
400 m (440 yards)
Palace of Diocletian
Diocletian, probably a native of Salona, became emperor in 284.
He made Maximian joint Augustus, senior co-emperor, in 285,
and then in 293 he appointed Galerius and Constantius as
Caesars, junior co-emperors (the Tetrarchy). After governing
for 20 years, Diocletian retired from public life and in 305 moved
to the palace which he had commissioned from the architects
Filotas and Zotikos in the bay of Split. After Diocletian’s death
in 316, the palace was used as administrative offices and the
governor’s residence. In 615, refugees from Salona found shelter
here after the destruction of their city by the Avars. The richest
settled in the emperor’s apartments, the poorer in the towers and
above the gates. The corners of the palace were marked by four Iron Gate and the Clock Tower
square towers, and four towers along the north, east and south This is the best-preserved gate:
sides, while the side facing the sea had a loggia with arches. beyond is the church of Our
Lady of the Belfry with a
Temple of Jupiter 12th-century tower next to it.
This had an atrium with six
columns. The body of the
building had a coffered vault and
rested on an underground crypt.
In the early Middle Ages it was
turned into the Baptistry
of St John.
Peristyle
Near the crossroads where the Cardo and
Decumanus intersected, the peristyle gave access
to the sacred area. On one side were the temples
of Venus and Cybele and, further back, that of
Jupiter (now the Baptistry of St John); on the other
side, the Mausoleum, now the cathedral.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–31 and pp238–49
SPLIT 123
R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
Kraj sv. Duje 5. Tel (021) 345 602.
Open Jun–Aug: 8am–sunset daily;
Sep–May: 9am–noon, 4:30–
7:30pm daily.
Originally the mausoleum of
the emperor Diocletian, the
cathedral was consecrated
in the 7th century when the
sarcophagus containing the
Portrait of Diocletian body of Diocletian was
After reorganizing the empire, removed and replaced, with
the emperor sought the spiritual a certain poetic justice, by
unification of its citizens. The the remains of St Domnius
state religion, personified by the (locally St Duje), a 3rd-century
emperor, gained in importance, bishop martyred as part of
and temples were constructed Diocletian’s persecution of
bearing his image. Christians the early Christians. It was the
were subject to extremely
archbishop of Split at the
violent persecution.
time who transformed the The 13th-century hexagonal pulpit,
mausoleum into a Christian Cathedral of St Domnius
The Golden Gate, facing church, and St Domnius
Salona, was the main entrance became the city’s patron saint. columns, most of them the
to the palace. This was the
most imposing of the
The structure is widely Roman originals; above these is
gates with two towers regarded as the oldest Catholic a frieze decorated with scenes
and many decorations. cathedral in the world that has of Eros hunting, supporting
not been substantially rebuilt medallions with portraits of
at any time. Since being Diocletian and his wife Prisca.
first built it has remained In the second niche on the
practically unaltered right, with frescoes dating
except for the from 1428, is the Altar of
construction of a St Domnius, the work of
Romanesque bell Bonino of Milan (1427). The
tower (12th–16th wooden choir stalls in the
centuries) and the addition of 17th-century presbytery are
the 13th-century choir inside. an example of Romanesque
An ancient sphinx in black carving from the beginning
granite rests at the foot of the of the 13th century.
bell tower. The entrance To the side is a chapel
doorway has wooden panels housing the Altar of St
from 1214, with scenes from Anastasius, designed in 1448
the Gospel in floral frames. by Juraj Dalmatinac. The niche
The Silver Gate, or The cathedral, built on an after this was altered in the
eastern gate, was a octagonal ground-plan, has a 18th century to create the
simpler copy of the
double order of Corinthian Baroque chapel of St Domnius.
Golden Gate.
The 13th-century hexagonal
pulpit is supported by thin
Reconstruction of columns with carved capitals.
Diocletian’s Palace The 14th-century building
The palace, shown here in its behind the cathedral houses
original form, was like a typical the sacristy and the name of
Roman military camp. It was one of the architects, Filotas, is
215 m (705 ft) long and 180 m inscribed by the entrance. In
(590 ft) wide and was enclosed the sacristy, now the Cathedral
by very thick walls, at times Museum, are many works of
28 m (92 ft) high. The four-sided art, including objects in gold
stronghold was reinforced with and silver, ancient manuscripts,
towers on the north, east and medieval icons and vestments.
west sides. There is a gate on Of particular importance
each side, connected by two are the Historia Saloniana
roads corresponding to the written by Archdeacon Toma
Roman Cardo and Decumanus. Detail of the Altar of St Anastasius, in the 13th century and a
Cathedral of St Domnius 7th-century Gospel.
124 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Exploring Split
As well as Diocletian’s palace, Split has much in the way of
historical and artistic interest to offer. In the medieval period,
villages were built near the walls. When the city became
a free town, settlements became physically linked. The
present-day Braće Radić Square and the People’s Square were
built, along with the Cambi Palace and the Town Hall. After
1420, construction of the external defences began and town
walls were built. Between Split and Trogir, castles built for
defence against the Turks still survive.
R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane
Trg Republike. n (021) 348 600 Distant Accords by Ivan Meštrović,
(tourist office). Open by appt. Meštrović Gallery
The church has been rebuilt
in recent times but the small E Meštrović Gallery
Romanesque-Gothic cloister, Galerija Meštrović
with thin columns enclosing Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46. Tel (021)
a flower garden, is original. 340 800. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm
The church, with mainly Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–
Baroque furnishings, has a Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. & - =
∑ mestrovic.hr
15th-century crucifix by Blaž
Juriev Trogiranin. It also houses The building housing this
the tombs of the city’s illustrious gallery was the residence of
citizens, including that of Ivan Meštrović in the early 1930s
Archdeacon Toma (the first (see p163). The sculptor himself
The 15th-century Marina Tower, built by Dalmatian historian), writer designed the building to be his
the Venetians Marko Marulić and the well- family house, studio and gallery.
known composer Ivan Lukačić. His sculptures, including Distant
P Braće Radić Square Accords and Persephone,
Trg braće Radić E Museum of Croatian decorate the garden and the
This medieval square is at the Archaeological Monuments interior. Among statues in
southwest corner of Diocletian’s Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških marble, wood and bronze are
Palace. The tall Marina Tower spomenika The Contemplation, The Vow and
(Hrvojeva kula) is the only Stjepana Gunjace bb. Tel (021) 323 Psyche. Part of the building still
evidence of the imposing 901. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–1pm, preserves the artist’s apartments.
5–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat; Sep–
castle built by the Venetians The Kaštilac, further down
Jun: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm
in the second half of the the road at No. 39, can be
Sat. Closed Sun, public hols.
15th century after the final 7 ^ ∑ mhas-split.hr
visited with the same ticket. This
defeat of Split. Built on an 16th-century residence once
octagonal ground-plan, it Set up in 1975, this belonged to the Capogrosso-
stands on the southern museum houses finds from Kavanjin family and was bought
side of the square. the area around Split dating by Meštrović in 1939 to set up
On the northern side from the early Middle Ages. an exhibition hall. The artist also
is the Baroque Milesi The collection also includes built a small church here to
Palace, which dates from the works of early Croat exhibit a series of reliefs called
the 17th century. There sculptors, dating from 800. New Testament, now replaced
is also a work by Ivan The stone fragments, by a different work, the Author
Meštrović in the centre salvaged from churches of the Apocalypse.
of the square: the great Monument to Marko and castles, consist
monument to Marko Marulić mainly of tombs, capitals, E National Art Gallery
Marulić, the writer and altar fronts, ciboria and Galerija umjetnina
scholar (1450–1524) windows. Highlights include Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Tel (021)
who was the founder Prince Višeslav’s hexagonal 350 110. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:
of literature in the Croatian baptismal font in marble, dating 10am–9pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-
language. The imposing from the beginning of the 9th Jun: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
bronze statue dedicated to century, and the sarcophagus Sat & Sun. Closed Sun, public hols.
& 8 7 - = ∑ galum.hr
the writer has an inscription of Queen Jelena (10th century),
with some verses by the discovered in the ancient The gallery offers a broad
poet Tin Ujević. Roman city of Salona. overview of art in Split and the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
SPLIT 125
rest of Croatia from the 14th to are fine views out to sea, with
the 20th centuries. As well as the islands of Šolta, Brač and
the Venetian masters there are Hvar clearly visible. You can also
also important icons from the find the best beaches in Split in
so-called school of Bocche di this pleasant area.
Cattaro (18th–19th centuries)
and more contemporary work, Environs
including works by Ivan Meštrović Seven Castles (Kaštela) is the
and Vlaho Bukovac. Temporary name given to a series of
exhibitions are also held here. fortifications built by the
Polyptych by Girolamo da Santacroce, Venetian governor and local
E Archaeological Our Lady of Grace nobles to defend the town
Museum Split against the Turks between the
Arheološki muzej u Splitu marsh (poljud). In the 1400s, end of the 15th century and the
Zrinsko Frankopanska 25. Tel (021) the Franciscans built a fortified 16th century, between Split and
329 340. Open Jun–Sep: 9am–2pm, monastery here with large Trogir. The village of Kaštela
4–8pm Mon–Sat; Oct–May: lateral towers, and a church grew up around the complex.
9am–2pm, 4–8pm Mon–Fri, with a trussed roof. Five of the original castles are
9am–2pm Sat. & 8 7 A polyptych by still preserved, as are the forti-
The museum was Girolamo da fied villas which rose from their
founded in 1820 and Santacroce from reconstruction.
has been on its 1549 stands on the St George’s Castle (Kaštel
present site since main altar, depicting Sućurac), the summer residence
1914. It contains a the Virgin and Saints: the of the bishop of Split, was built
considerable number Sarcophagus, figure holding a model at the end of the 14th century
of finds from the Archaeological of the city is St Domnius, and strengthened the following
Roman, early Christian Museum Split patron saint of Split. century by building a wall, of
and medieval periods Many works of art are which some traces remain.
which are exhibited in rotation. on display, including a Portrait Abbess Castle (Kaštel Gomilica)
Of great interest are the finds of Bishop Tommaso Nigris by was built on an island which is
from Roman Salona, including Lorenzo Lotto (1527) and now linked to the mainland.
sculptures, capitals, sarcophagi miniatures by Bone Razmilović. Vitturi Castle (Kaštel Lukšić)
(those from the 4th–5th century Not far from the monastery was transformed into a large
still have pagan reliefs), jewel- is the stadium of the famous villa, keeping only the old
lery, coins, small objects in glazed Hajduk Split football team, built external structure. It was
terracotta and ceramics. There in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud built by the Vitturi family,
are also finds from the Roman and designed by Boris Magaš. who donated a sculpture
town of Narona (see p136). by Juraj Dalmatinac to the
Y Marjan Peninsula church of St Raynerius (Sv.
R Our Lady of Grace This protected nature reserve Arnir). Old Castle (Kaštel Stari)
in Poljud is on the west side of town, has kept its original aspect; the
Gospa od Poljuda and is reached by a winding sea-facing side looks like a
Poljudsko šetalište 17. n (021) 381 flight of steps. On the way is palace with Gothic windows.
011. Open by appt. the 13th-century church of All that remains of the New
Towards Zrinsko-Frankopanska St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola). A path Castle (Kaštel Novi) are the
in the direction of the suburbs leads out to the wooded tower and St Roch church,
lies an area once called the peninsula, from where there built by the Čipiko family.
Stadium of the Hajduk football team, built in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud
126 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
i Šolta
Map D5. * 1,400. 4 from Split.
n Rogač, (021) 654 657.
∑ visitsolta.com
ŠOLTA
Rogač Supetar
BRAČ Sumartin
Bol
Key
Major road 0 kilometres 10
p Vis
Further out in the Adriatic than the other Dalmatian islands,
Vis was until 1989 a closed military base. Now gradually being
rediscovered by intrepid travellers, it has a jagged coastline
with beaches, and an inland mountain chain with Mount Hum
reaching a height of 587 m (1,925 ft). The island was chosen
by Dionysios of Syracuse as a base for Greek domination of
the Adriatic. The Greeks founded the town of Issa – now Vis
town – here. Later the island was ruled by the Romans, then
the Byzantines and, from 1420, the Venetians. The island
played a key role during World War II – in 1944 Marshal
Tito used it as a base for co-ordinating partisan military
operations. Crucial meetings between partisans, the Yugoslav
government in exile and the Allies were also held on Vis. The pretty town of Komiža and its
sheltered harbour
Key
Minor road
Stončica
Vis
Komiža VIS
Podstražje
BIŠEVO
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3
a Hvar
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story
begins in the 4th century BC when the Greeks from Paros
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar
town). Traces have been left by the Romans, the Byzantines, the
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria-
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of of St Stephen
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically which he vividly describes a
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. fishing trip around the islands
of Hvar, Brač and Šolta. He
began building the Tvrdalj in
1514, intending for it to be both
a palatial private house and a
fortified sanctuary into which
the local population could
retreat should there be an
attack by pirates. The Tvrdalj was
intended to be a self-sustaining
unit, with a garden, a dovecote
and a seawater fishpond were
included within its walls.
Hektorović placed philosophical
inscriptions in Latin on the walls
of the Tvrdalj, turning his home
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad into a unique monument to
Renaissance humanist thought.
Hvar Town a picturesque old quarter of low Nearby is Stari Grad
See pp132–3. stone houses and tiny streets. Museum, housed in the
The 17th-century parish Church Renaissance Biankini Palace.
Stari Grad of St Stephen (Sv. Stjepan), It contains a stunning collection
Founded by the Syracusans with its free-standing Venetian- of Greek amphorae, some
in the 4th century BC and style bell tower, is the principal beautifully restored period
originally called Pharos, Stari landmark. At the western end rooms, and a picture gallery
Grad (literally, the Old Town) of the old quarter is the Tvrdalj, devoted to local artists, includ-
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, the fortified residence of ing the gifted, Paris-trained Juraj
despite having lost its political Renaissance poet Petar Plančić (1899–1930). The Moira
and cultural importance to Hvar Hektorović . Hektorović is best Gallery at Vagonj 1 shows
town. Stari Grad lies at the end known as the author of Ribanje i contemporary art and contains
of a long bay and the main ribarsko prigovaranje (Fishing and fragments of Roman mosaic
sights are scattered throughout Fishermen’s Conversation) in in the floor.
PAKLENI ISLANDS
Zavala
ŠĆEDRO
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 131
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Stjepana 42, (021) 741 059. Stari
Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana
1, (021) 765 763. Sućuraj: (021)
717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr
Transport
4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
(021) 773 228.
On the edge of the old E Tvrdalj
quarter is the Dominican Priko bb. Open May, Jun & Sep:
Monastery (Dominikanski 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
samostan), founded by Brother 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
Germano of Piacenza in 1482 E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
and rebuilt and fortified after Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow
destruction by Uluz Ali, the 324. Open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
Ottoman corsair who raided 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
the Adriatic islands in 1571. The 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, the 16th-century Church of
most feared sea captain of his 7–9pm Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. St Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified
time, Uluz Ali was driven away R Dominican Monastery with huge buttresses to provide
by the stubborn defenders of Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
Korčula, and came to pillage Open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of
the less well-defended island daily; Oct–May: by appt. St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
of Hvar instead. As well as a ptych on the main altar by Paolo
beautiful cloister, the monastery Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin
has a library rich in medieval A traditional Dalmatian stone- of the Rosary by Leandro da
incunabula, and a collection of built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is
paintings including a Deposition harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
by Tintoretto. The monastery for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
church contains the grave of beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
Immediately east of Stari Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced Zavala
that still preserves the field in the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of
plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is through a famously low and
modern counterparts do today, Trg svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
but also grew wheat. Added piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
to the UNESCO World Heritage octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
list in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
Sućuraj
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its pretty
Sućuraj harbour boasts the remains of a
Bogomolje fortress built by the Venetians in
1630. Nearby, Mlaska Bay and
Key
Perna Bay are two of Hvar’s best
0 kilometres 5 Major road beaches, with clear shallow
0 miles 5 Minor road water over fine sand.
For keys to symbols see back flap
132 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
P Hektorović Palace
Hektorovićeva palaĉa
North of the main square is
a very ancient quarter of the
town called Groda, consisting
of stone houses and narrow
alleys clinging to a sharply
rising hillside. The most
prominent landmark here is
the Hektorović Palace, an
unfinished building project
by the15th-century poet Petar
Hektorović (see pp130–31).
It is easily recognized by its
beautiful Venetian-Gothic
mullioned windows.
Cafés on the main square, with the cathedral in the background
R Benedictine Convent
R Cathedral of On the south side of the Benediktini samostan
St Stephen square, the Arsenal was built in Groda bb. Tel (021) 741 052.
Katedrala sv. Stjepana the late 16th century as a dry Open 10am–noon, 5–7pm
Trg svetog Stjepana. Tel (021) 743 dock for Venetian war galleys. Mon–Sat.
107. Cathedral Treasury: Open A theatre built on the first floor Just behind the Hektorović
summer: 9am–noon, 5–7pm daily; in 1612 is one of the oldest in Palace is a Benedictine convent
winter: by appt. Europe. The theatre was open founded in 1664 that houses a
Dominating Hvar’s harbourside to people of all classes in a secluded community of nuns
main square, Trg svetog who still make, display and sell
Stjepana, the Renaissance traditional Hvar lace, made by
cathedral has a trefoil pediment weaving fibres extracted from
and a 17th-century bell tower the spiky agave plants that can
standing to one side. The be seen all over the island.
interior houses many works of
art: a Virgin and Saints by Palma + Citadel
il Giovane (1544–1628), a Pietà Open Apr & May: 10am–4pm daily;
by Juan Boschetus, Virgin with Jun–Sep: 10am–10pm daily
Saints by Domenico Uberti and Paths ascend from the Groda
a fine 16th-century wooden district to the 16th-century
choir. The cathedral treasury Citadel on the hill above town,
boasts a rich collection of known locally as Španjola
reliquaries and silverware. because it was built by Spanish
architects who specialized in
P Arsenal fortification work. Superb views
Trg svetog Stjepana. Closed for Open to the sky, the Gothic windows of the of the surrounding coast are
restoration until late 2017. Hektorović Palace, never completed offered by the citadel’s ramparts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and p240–45
D A L M AT I A 133
R Church of St Mark
Crkva svetog Marka
Visible all over town is the
belfry of the former Dominican
monastery’s Church of St Mark,
west of the main square. The
monastery was an important
centre of culture during the
Renaissance. It was here that
friar Vinko Pribojević gave a
famous speech on the Origins
of the Slavs in 1525, proposing
not only that the Slav peoples
of Europe were ethnically
related but also that they all
originally came from the Popular with locals, Mlini beach on the Pakleni Islands
Croatian Adriatic.
da Bassano, and six scenes walking and sailing destinations
R Franciscan Monastery inspired by the Passion of throughout the summer
Franjevaĉki samostan Christ by Martin Benetović. season. Their name derives from
Križa bb. Tel (021) 741 193. The grave of Renaissance the resin (paklina) that was at
Open May–Oct: 9am–noon daily; poet Hanibal Lucić can be seen one time extracted from the
Nov–Apr: 11am–noon daily. on the floor of the nave. There pines and used to waterproof
The monastery, dating from are also many works of art in the fishing boats.
1461, is located along the rooms facing the cloister. The During the summer boat
coastal path south of the Old Mannerist painting of the Last trips to the islands depart
Town. The monastery’s Church Supper in the refectory is of regularly from Hvar. Sveti
of Our Lady of Charity (Gospa uncertain attribution – possibly Klement is the largest of the
od Milosti), with a relief on the the work of Matteo Ingoli, islands and has most to offer
façade by Nikola Firentinac, also Matteo Ponzone or the school in terms of beaches, walking
contains two paintings by of Palma il Giovane. trails and restaurants.
Palma il Giovane (of St Francis Marinkovac also has good
Receiving the Stigmata and Environs beaches and a popular yachting
St Diego), three polyptychs The sparsely inhabited Pakleni marina. Be aware that the
by Francesco da Santacroce, a Islands, just off the coast from nearest island, Jerolim, is given
Christ on the Cross by Leandro Hvar town, are popular bathing, over to naturism.
Hvar
1 Cathedral of St Stephen Citadel
2 Arsenal
H I G I J E N IČ K O
GD
3 Hektorović Palace RU
ŠT
VA
EVIĆA
4 Benedictine Convent
ŠETALIŠTE ANTE HANČ
Church of
5 Citadel M AT I J E I V A N I ĆA the Holy Spirit
Bus
A Benedictine
6 Church of St Mark NI
Ć
Convent
Station
E IVA
M AT I J
7 Franciscan Monastery Church of
Hektorović
Palace TRG M.
St Mark Groda MILIČIĆA
TRG SV.
STJEPANA Cathedral
Arsenal of St Stephen
A
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BU
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BUZOLIĆ ŠIME I
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Luka Hvar TO
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0 metres 300
Environs
The Cetina Valley Nature
Park, immediately behind
Omiš, shelters a river which
flows into the artificial lake of
Peruča. The river runs out of the
lake and parallel to the coast
for some distance and then,
near Zadvarje, abruptly turns
and cascades down before
flowing into a narrow gorge.
Boating on the river in the Cetina Valley Nature Park This beautiful natural
environment, with its myriad
s Omiš One is the Renaissance Church bird species, can be explored
of St Michael (Sv. Mihovil) with on foot or by bicycle, but the
Map D5. * 6,000. @ (021) 864 210.
4 (021) 861 025. n Trg kneza a pointed bell tower, originally most popular way to see it is
Miroslava bb, (021) 861 350. a defensive structure. Inside is a to take one of the many boats
_ Festival klapa (Jul). ∑ visitomis.hr 16th-century wooden altar, a through the park.
large 13th-century wooden
In the late Middle Ages Omiš cross and two paintings by
was known as the residence of Matteo Ingoli of Ravenna d Makarska
the terrifying corsairs who (1587–1631). At the end of
Map E5. * 14,000. @ Ulica Ante
fought fiercely against the main road is the 16th-
Starčevića 30, (021) 612 333. 4 Obala
Venetian rule from the century Oratory of kralja Tomislava 1a, (021) 611 977.
12th century until the Holy Spirit (Sv. n Obala kralja Tomislava 16, (021)
1444, when the town Duh) with Descent 612 002. ∑ makarska-info.hr
fell to Venice. Today it of the Holy Spirit by
is a peaceful holiday Palma il Giovane The Makarska coast extends
resort with some (1544–1628). from Brela to Gradac and
light industry along However, the includes a long stretch of shore
the coast, and the most fascinating with lush vegetation sheltered
starting point for Church of St Peter in Priko, monument here by the Biokovo massif.
visits to the valley a district of Omiš is in Priko, on the Makarska, one of Dalmatia’s
of the River Cetina. oppo site bank most popular mainland resorts,
In July, the Dalmatinksa Klapa of the River Cetina. This is the lies within a bay sheltered by
festival attracts many visitors 10th-century Church of St Peter the peninsula of St Peter’s.
who come to hear Klapa, a (Sv. Petar), one of the most The town was the site of the
kind of plainsong traditional to appealing pre-Romanesque Roman Mucurum, which was
Dalmatia. It is still very popular,
even among the young.
Only a few traces of the
Roman municipium of
Onaeum remain but many
of the medieval defences built
by the counts of Kačić and Bribir
are still visible on a hill, once
the site of the Old Town, or Stari
grad. These consist of the walls
going down to the River Cetina
and also the ruins of a large
fort (Fortica) with its distinctive
high tower. From the fort, built
between the 16th and the 17th
centuries, there is a splendid
view of Omiš and the central
Dalmatian islands.
There are three interesting
religious buildings in the town. The Makarska coast, with white beaches and a mountainous backdrop
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 135
Delta of the River Neretva in Opuzen, drained and turned into fertile fields
Dense forests of Aleppo pine, cypress and oak are found all Practical Information
over this island, one of the largest in the Adriatic at 47 km Map E6. * 17,000. n Obala dr.
Tuđmana 4, Korčula, (020) 715
(29 miles) long. Mountains run the length of the island, 701. _ Moreška, Jun & Sep: 9pm
reaching 560 m (1,837 ft) at their peak. Inhabited since Thu; Jul & Aug: 9pm Mon & Thu.
prehistoric times, the Greeks named the island Korkyra Lumbarda: n (020) 712 005.
Melaina (Black Corfu). After 1000 AD, it was fought over by Blato: n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4,
(020) 851 850. _ St Vincenca’s
Venice and the Croat kings and later by the Genoese and the Day (28 Apr). n Vela Luka: Obala
Turks (in the 1298 naval battle between Genoa and Venice, 3 br 19, (020) 813 619. ∑ visit
the Genoese captured Marco Polo, said to be a native of the korcula.eu ∑ tzvelaluka.hr
island). Today it is a popular holiday spot for its cliffs and Transport
sandy beaches, its villages and Korčula, its main town. 4 from Orebić, Split and Rijeka.
Korčula: @ (020) 711 216.
4 Vela Luka: (020) 715 410.
4 (020) 812 023.
main road are designed to lessen
the impact of the bora wind.
Facing Trg sv. Marka, the paintings include St Mark with
central square, is the town’s St Jerome and St Bartholomew
main monument: the 14th- by Tintoretto. On a wall are
century Cathedral of St Mark trophies recalling the Battle
(Katedrala Sv. Marka), built in of Lepanto of 1571.
pale, honey-coloured stone. Next to the cathedral, in the
Most of it dates from the end Bishop’s Palace, now the Abbot’s
of the 15th century. The skill of House, is the Abbey Treasury
Korčula’s sculptors and stone (Opatska riznica), which is
masons is evident in the door, particularly known for its
where two lions guard the Dalmatian and Venetian art,
entrance, decorated with thin including a polyptych by Blaž
spiral columns and a lunette
with the figure of St Mark,
Land Gate, main entrance to the Old Town attributed to Bonino of Milan.
of Korčula Two further doors open onto
side aisles. On the left stands an
Korčula Town imposing, 30-m (100-ft) bell
The town sits atop a peninsula, tower, which visitors may climb.
surrounded by strong 13th- Inside are large columns with
century walls, reinforced with elaborately decorated capitals
towers and bastions by the and several important sculptural
Venetians after 1420. The whole works: a 15th-century holy
town is enchanting. The Land water stoup, a font from the
Gate (Kopnena vrata) was 17th century, and the tomb
fortified by a huge tower, the of Bishop Toma Malumbra,
Revelin, which overlooked a attributed to the workshop of
canal dug by the Venetians to Marko Andrijić, who also made
isolate the town. There are the ciborium in the presbytery
now steps in this area. Narrow in 1481. There is also a statue of Impressive entrance to the Gothic Cathedral
streets branching off the St Blaise by Ivan Meštrović. The of St Mark, Korčula
PRO I ZD
Prigradica
Vela Luka
Blato
Potirna
Key Prižba Brna
Major road
Minor road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
KORČULA 139
Korčula, the main town on the island, on an isthmus on the northeast coast
Račišće
Korčula
KORČULA Pupnat
Žrnovo Lumbarda
Pupnatska Luka
Čara
Zavalatica
0 kilometres 5
Two Moreškants performing the
ancient Moreška sword dance
0 miles 5
Vela Luka
Situated about 45 km (28 miles)
west of Korčula is Vela Luka,
called “the oldest and the
newest town”, because it was
built at the beginning of the
The serene coastline of Lumbarda 19th century on the Neolithic
site of Vela Spilja. It is one of the
Lumbarda Arneri Castle, where the Civic largest towns on the island and
Lumbarda is a village 6 km Museum documenting local industries coexist with attractive
(4 miles) southeast of the town history is being set up, and bays and numerous islands.
of Korčula and is thought to All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), The hills surrounding the
have been founded by Greeks of medieval origin. This church town shelter this area from the
from Vis. It was called Eraclea by was enlarged and rebuilt in winds from the north and south.
the Romans. In the 16th century the 17th century and has an Vela Luka is also the main port
it became a holiday resort for altarpiece of the Virgin with Child on the island and there are
the nobles of Korčula. Some and Saints on the main altar by regular ferry services to Split
inscriptions from the Greek Girolamo di Santacroce (1540) and Lastovo.
period are now in the
Archaeological Museum
of Zagreb (see pp168–9).
Today this village is one of the
centres of production for the
liqueur-like white wine called
Grk, which is made from grapes
of the same name grown in the
sand. The nearby small beaches
are havens of tranquillity.
Blato
In the central square of Blato, a
town where the festival of the
Kumpanija (see p139) is held
every April, are an 18th-century
Baroque loggia, the Renaissance Lumbarda on the island of Korčula, one of the greenest in the Adriatic
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 141
Pomena
•
Goveđari Polače Kozarica
Mijet
National
Soline Park
Blato
Monastery of St Mary
In the centre of Big Lake (Veliko Jezero) is a
small island with a 12th-century Benedictine
monastery, remodelled in the 1500s. Although
currently being restored, it can still be visited.
National Park
The area of 31 sq km (12 sq miles)
is almost entirely forested.
The park is home to wild boar, 0 kilometres 3
deer, hares, lizards and many
0 miles 3
bird species.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
D A L M AT I A 143
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map E6. * 1,300.
Goveđari: n Polače, Tourist
office: (020) 744 186. National
Park: (020) 744 041. & 8
∑ mljet.hr ∑ np-mljet.hr
Transport
4 from Dubrovnik.
The park can be visited on foot
or by bicycle following the trails.
Marine Life Boats must be authorized – call
Dozens of species of fish, including grouper, inhabit the information office for details.
underwater ravines and caves along the coast. The most
valued creature is the endangered monk seal, protected
in these waters.
Saplunara
Saplunara lies at the
The village of Babino Polje southernmost point of
was founded in around the the island and boasts the
middle of the 10th century by most beautiful beach in
a group of refugees from the the area. It has been
mainland. The governor’s declared a nature reserve
residence was built in 1554 for its lush vegetation.
when the island became part
of the territory of the Republic
of Ragusa (now Dubrovnik).
Sobra
Prožura
• Okuklje
MLJET Korita
Maranovići
Saplunara
Uninhabited Islands
Nature is left undisturbed on these islands, with
woods of pine, holm oak and oak going right
down to the rocky shore.
Key
Fishing Villages
Minor road The island’s ancient stone
Path villages are inhabited mainly by
Park border farmers and fishermen. These
villages and the delightful bays
and coves around the island
are lovely places in which
to spend time.
For keys to symbols see back flap Zlatni rat beach on the island of Brač
146 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
v Street-by-Street: Dubrovnik
Set in the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik
had been, until war broke out in 1991, one of the top
international tourist destinations of Dalmatia, renowned
for the beauty of its monuments, its magnificent walls
and welcoming atmosphere. According to Emperor
Constantine Porphyrogenitus it was founded by fugitives
from Roman Epidaurum (now Cavtat) in the 7th century.
It came under Byzantine and Venetian (1205–1358) rule,
and attained formal independence after 1382, when it
became the Republic of Ragusa. In the 15th and 16th
. Rector’s Palace
centuries its fleet numbered over 500 ships. Artistically The highest level of city
it flourished and its wealth was greatly influenced by the government met here. The
discovery of America and new trade routes. Much of rector lived here during his
the Old Town centre dates from the rebuilding that period of office, which was
limited to one month.
took place after the earthquake of 1667.
. Cathedral Treasury
The provenance of the objects
here clearly demonstrates how CA GUNDULIĆEVA
the Dubrovnik merchants LUĆ ARI POLJANA
developed trading relations
with the principal cities of
the Mediterranean. The
Treasury has works from the Byzantine, OM
Middle Eastern, Apulian and Venetian V OR
schools. There are gold and enamel D
.
objects and also paintings by ED
PR
great artists.
POLJANA
MARINA
Key DRžIĆA
KN
Suggested route
E
Z
A
D
A
M
JA
NA
JU
DE
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
DUBROVNIK 147
Sponza Palace
Originating in the 16th VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
century, today the palace
Practical Information
houses the State Archives. On
Map F6. * 43,000. n Local:
the lintel is a Latin inscription:
Brsalje 5 (020) 312 011; Regional:
“Falsifying and cheating with
Šipčine 2 (020) 324 999. _
the weights is forbidden. While
Dubrovnik Summer Festival (Jul–
I am weighing the goods, God
Aug). Local: ∑ tzdubrovnik.hr
is measuring me”.
Regional: ∑ visitdubrovnik.hr
Transport
k Čilipi, (020) 773 377.
@ Obala pape Ivana Pavla 11,
44A, (060) 305 070. 4 Harbour
Master: (020) 418 988; Jadrolini
Franciscan Monastery ja: (020) 418 000.
and the Big Fountain
of Onofrio
The outer
city walls
PR
IJE
PL
KO
AC
A
A
SK
AR
AT
ZL
S
V . Dominican Monastery
E
T Since its foundation in
O
G K A
DOMINI 1315, the monastery
has played a leading
role in cultural
activities in the
city. Important
sculptors and
architects played
a part in its
construction.
Ploče Gate
Next to the Dominican monastery is the
Ploče Gate, which leads to the port.
Goods arrived from, and were sent to,
every port in the Mediterranean.
Exploring Dubrovnik
From the autumn of 1991 until May 1992, Dubrovnik
was the target of relentless, heavy bombing by Yugoslav
troops. During this period over 2,000 bombs and guided
missiles fell on Dubrovnik, damaging some of the most
significant symbols of Dalmatian culture. Over half the
houses and all the monuments were shelled. The war
also hit the city’s economic activity, especially tourism,
which suffered a dramatic decline for four years.
Only after the Erdut Agreement of 1995 did life begin to
return to normal. UNESCO and the European Union set
The solid Minčeta Tower, part of the
up a special commission for the reconstruction of the wall defences
city, and in a remarkably short space of time much of
the damage has been repaired. Dubrovnik has now from 1537. The bridge crosses
regained much of its former splendour and tourism is a moat which is now a garden.
once again flourishing. The gate is a strong defensive
structure built on different
levels. In a niche above the
ogival arch stands a small statue
of St Blaise, the patron saint of
Dubrovnik, by Ivan Meštrović. In
the ramparts between the inner
and outer walls is a Gothic door
dating from 1460.
P Minčeta Tower
Tvrđava Minčeta
This is the most visited of the
walls’ defensive structures. It
was designed by Michelozzo
Michelozzi in 1461 and
Splendid view from the impressive city walls completed by Juraj Dalmatinac
three years later. The semicircular
P Walls the Adriatic and the port. tower is crowned by a second
Gradske zidine Completing the defences to the tower with embrasures at the top.
n (020) 324 641. Open Jun & Jul: east and west of the city are two
8am–7:30pm; Apr, May, Aug & Sep: fortresses: the Revelin and P Ploče Gate
8am–6:30pm; Oct: 8am–4pm; Nov– the fortress of Lovrijenac. Vrata od Ploča
Mar: 9am–3pm. Access to the walls The gate faces a small port and
near the Franciscan monastery in P Pile Gate is preceded by the polygonal
Poljana Paška Miličevića, the large Gradska vrata Pile Asimov Tower. Dating from the
square behind Pile Gate near the
This is the main entrance to the 1300s, the gate is reached by an
Dominican monastery. &
old fortified centre. The stone imposing stone bridge. A moat
A symbol of Dubrovnik, the walls bridge leading to Pile Gate is separates the gate and Revelin
offer splendid views from the Fort (Tvrđava Revelin),
guards’ walkway. They were designed in 1538 by
built in the 10th century, with Antonio Ferramolino. It
modifications in the 13th century. was the last of the def
They were then reinforced at ences to be built. The
various times by great architects city’s art treasures were
such as Michelozzo Michelozzi brought here for safety
and Antonio Ferramolino. in times of difficulty
The walls and ramparts are because of the fort’s
1,940 m (6,363 ft) long and reach strength. The Lazareti
a height of 25 m (82 ft) in some served as a quarantine
parts. Those facing inland are from the late 14th
up to 6 m (20 ft) wide and century, separating
strengthened by an outer wall goods from ailing
with ten semicircular bastions. travellers. Today they are
Other towers and the Fort of occupied by shops and
St John defend the part facing Pile Gate, leading to the Old Town entertainment facilities.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
DUBROVNIK 149
M. RSKA
PERI HVA
Ferry port ĆA
2 km (1.2 miles)
E VA
LIN
NSK
Fort
O T IĆ
2 km (1.2 miles)
NCI
D
Monastery E
ISPO
Walls Dominican SU PI LA
A
UNI
R I JE
FR AN A
PA L M
IĆEV
BRSALJE Monastery
A
A
EŠK
AN T
LO V
IĆEV
NIK
Pile Gate
A
KUN
AČK
MI
IOSK
PRIJE
KOV
Church KO
DO
KOV
PETI
Rosary OG
BOŠ
ŽUD
ET
VA
STRA SV
Big Fountain D UN Church
IĆ E
(PLA
of Onofrio
A
CA)
D
OK
TA L
IZM
ŠIR
ZA
EDU Synagogue Sponza North
GE
OD
RO
KO Marin Držić POL Palace Pier
AČ
M.
Bokar Fort
Port
GA
US
BO
Orthodox
IĆ
Museum
I PA
NA
EV
KA
Church
OS
OD
AR
MI
RU South
M.
.J
Ž ID
O
PA Rector’s
NE
Pier
SV
GUNDULI-
DD
BO
Palace
N JI
ĆEVA
AR . O
POLJANA Fort of
N.
RA
POLJANA
IJE
ŠT St John
M SV
D.
RO MARINA
SM A M J AN A
AJE Cathedral DRŽIĆA K N E Z A D D E
R OV JU
A and Treasury T IJ E R N E
O
D O D P US
KA
Jesuit Porporela
ANDRI
ŠT
BRAĆE A
EL
Church
P OB I J A N A
A
OD POLJANA
JIĆ
MA R. BOŠKOVIĆA
RG A
AR IR
IT E DM
I SP O
R Church of St Blaise
Crkva sv. Vlaha
Loža. Tel (020) 323 887.
Open 8am–noon, 4:30–7pm daily.
St Blaise was rebuilt in the early
decades of the 18th century
according to a 17th-century
design and contains many
Baroque works of art. Rector’s Palace, built in the 15th century as the administrative seat
On the main altar stands a
statue of the patron saint, Blaise. (Kulturno-povijesni muzej), from the 16th–18th centuries
Produced in the 15th century in which contains 15 collections of decorate the side altars, while
gold-plated silver, it depicts the historic items created in art and an Assumption by Titian (c.1552)
saint holding a model of the city craft workshops throughout dominates the main altar.
in the Middle Ages. Europe between the 16th and Alongside the church is the
20th centuries. On the ground Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
floor an authentic jail space, Katedrale), famous for its
court, notary and archives have collection of about 200
been preserved and presented. reliquaries. It includes the arm
Coins, medals, stamps and of St Blaise which dates from
measures, ancient weapons and the 13th century, and a Holy
numerous other works of art as Cross which contains a
well as an inventory of the state fragment of the cross on which
pharmacy “Domus Christi” are Jesus was said to have been
on display on the mezzanine crucified. The tondo Virgin of
floor. On the first floor, rooms the Chair is thought to have
contain valuable objects from been painted by Raphael
the 16th–18th centuries. himself, and is a copy of the
Also of great interest are masterpiece which is now
the portraits of illustrious in Florence.
personalities who were born The treasury also has an
or lived in Dubrovnik, whose extraordinary collection of
Baroque façade of the church of history is told through their sacred objects in gold, including
St Blaise heraldic coats of arms. During a pitcher and basin in gold and
the Festival of Dubrovnik silver with decoration that
P Rector’s Palace concerts are held in the illustrates the flora and fauna
Knežev dvor atmospheric internal courtyard. of the area around Dubrovnik.
Pred Dvorom 3. Tel (020) 321 422. Next door is the 1863
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Neo-Renaissance Town Hall
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & = ^ (Vïjećnica), designed by Emilio
The Rector’s Palace was for Vecchietti. It is also the home
centuries the seat of the most of the café Gradska Kavana
important government (see p241) and the Civic Theatre.
institutions of the Dubrovnik
Republic. It housed the Upper R Cathedral and Treasury
and Lower Council, as well as Velika Gospa
the rector’s quarters and rooms Kneza Damjana Jude 1. Open Apr–
for meetings and audiences. The Oct: 8am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm
building was constructed in Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–noon, 3–5pm
the early 15th century on the Mon–Sat, 11am–noon, 3–5pm Sun.
site of a medieval fortress, and Cathedral Treasury: Tel (020) 323 459.
Open same times as the cathedral. &
designed by the Italian architect
Onofrio de la Cava. In 1465 the The cathedral was built after
portico by Petar Martinov from the earthquake of 1667 by the
Milan was added. The Gothic Roman architects Andrea
works are by Juraj Dalmatinac. Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti.
The rooms of the palace Inside are three aisles enclosed
house the interesting Cultural by three apses. Paintings by The great dome of Dubrovnik’s Baroque
Historical Museum Italian and Dalmatian artists cathedral
152 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
m Konavle
Map F6. n Zidine 6, Cavtat,
(020) 478 025. ∑ visit.cavtat-
Šunj beach on the southeast coast of Lopud, one of the Elaphite islands konavle.com
Šipan
This is the largest of the Elaphite
Islands (15.5 sq km/6 sq miles)
and there are two towns. In
Šipanska Luka stands the
pre-Romanesque church of
St Michael and the ruins of a
Benedictine monastery. In
Suđurađ there is a castle and
the ruins of a bishop’s palace. The pretty seafront and port of Cavtat
C r o at i a a r e a b y a r e a 155
ZAGREB
the capital of Croatia, Zagreb is also the heart of the political, economic and
cultural life of the country. Surrounded by woods and parks, the city lies
between the slopes of Mount Medvednica to the north and the river Sava to
the south. Located at the centre of continental Croatia, this Central european
city constitutes a meeting point between eastern and western europe.
The political scientist Max Weber once the Croat-Hungarian King Bela IV.
declared that the quality of life in a city This granted various economic and
could be measured by the number of its administrative privileges to the
cultural institutions. Zagreb has over inhabitants. From the 16th century
20 museums, 10 theatres, 350 libraries, onwards Gradec was also where the Ban
a university, and lively programmes of – the governor of Croatia delegated by
artistic and cultural events. This is not the Hungarian kingdom – and the Croat
just because Zagreb is the capital (it has parliament carried out their business and
only been the capital since 1991), but where Croat nobles met to govern this
is also due to the leading cultural and turbulent territory. The two towns were
political role that Zagreb has played both fortified with ramparts, towers,
over the centuries. moats and gates, and separated by the
Zagreb was originally two separate Medveščak stream. The stream was often
medieval towns. Two settlements were the site of violent clashes between
built on two adjacent hilltops: Kaptol, Gradec and Kaptol, and that time is
the centre of religious power and a vividly recalled by the street called
bishopric from 1094, and Gradec (now the Bridge of Blood (Krvavi most).
part of Gornji grad). In 1242, with the In 1880, a terrible earthquake
proclamation of a “Golden Bull”, Gradec struck the city and many of the major
was given the title of royal free city by monuments date from after this time.
Exploring Zagreb
The city is divided into two large sectors; the Old Town (Gornji
grad or Upper Town), which includes the two districts of 0 metres 200
Gradec and Kaptol, situated in the hills, and the modern area 0 yards 200
(Donji grad or Lower Town) on the plain. The large square
dedicated to the Croat governor Jelačić (Trg bana Jelačića) is
where the upper and lower towns meet. The Old Town is home
to the main centres of religious, political and administrative
power. The more modern part developed after 1830 around
a U-shaped series of parks and open spaces (known as the
“green horseshoe”). The major museums, including the
Ethnographic Museum, Mimara Museum, Gallery of Old
C
NA
Masters and Modern Gallery, are all located here, as well as
KA
TUŠ
the National Theatre. To the south of a series of gardens with
sculptures lies the Botanical Garden. Around Jelačić Square
there are plenty of cafés with summer terraces.
STR
ELJ
AČ
KA
DEŽM ANOVA
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries
6 Zagreb City Museum 9 Church of St Mark
7 Croatian Natural History Museum r Church of SS. Cyril
8 Meštrović Atelier and Methodius
w Croatian History Museum y Church of St Catherine ILIC A
e Croatian Museum of Naive Art
Palaces and Other Buildings
i Museum of Arts and Crafts
o Mimara Museum 2 Archbishop’s Palace
A
O PA N SK
5 Stone Gate
MEDULIĆEVA
p Ethnographic Museum
s Art Pavilion 0 Parliament Building
DAL MAT INSK A
q Viceroy’s Palace
FR A N K
ROOSEVELTOV
TRG
TRG BRAĆE
MAŽURANIĆ
PE
RK
OV
Greater Zagreb
ČEV
A
Maksimir
Črnomerec
VS
SA
ZAGREB
Zagreb
VODNIKOVA
Jarun
Sa
va CR
Lake NA
TK
Jarun OV
A
A1 Novi Zagreb
Botinec A3
0 km 3
30
Zagreb
0 miles 3
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
ZAGREB 157
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D2. * 780,000.
n Trg bana Jelačića 11,
M E D V E D G R AD SK A
(01) 481 40 51. _ Smotra
NOVA VES
folklora, Folklore Festival (Jul);
ILIRSKI
VA
T TRG Zagrebačke ljetne večeri,
NO
PU M IK
LOU Š I Ć E
GE
VA
Zagreb Summer Festival.
RIB
IN
DE
K E ZV
ŠT
V ∑ infozagreb.hr
NJ
I ON
A AL AR
BR
T NI
ŠE
AK
ĆK
O
VA
U A
OV
D
VR
AZ
R O Transport
ET
M k at Velika Gorica, Pleso,
DE
BASARIČEKOVA
T K A L ČIĆ E VA
TOL
KA
313 333.
IČ
SN
O P AT O V I N A
MARKOV
ME
TRG
KA ME NIT
Š E VA
A
CIRILOMETODSKA
M AT O
JEZUITSKI
TRG KAPTOL
SKA
KATARININ LINSKA
B A K A Č E VA
TRG KRVAVI
MOST
OVO
YER
P A L M O T I Ć E VA
RAD
OS SM A Š E TA DOLAC
STR LIŠT E
IĆE
VA
POD ZID O M
TOMIĆEVA
VL
AŠ
KA
C E S AR Č E V A
K U R E L Č E VA
ILI CA TRG
ILICA BANA JELAČIĆA
Zagreb skyline
JU RI ŠIĆ EV
A
GUNDULIĆEVA
PRA ŠKA
PRERADOVIĆEV
TRG BOGOVIĆEVA
PE
MARIĆEV
GA JE VA
PROLAZ
TR
VARŠAVSKA
MIŠKECOV
IN
PROLAZ
JSK
TESLIN A
A
PR ER AD OV
VA
KO Getting Around
RY ĐORĐ
IĆEVA
SA IĆ EV A
MA BE RI SL AV
The districts of the Old Town,
IĆE VA
ZRINJEVAC
Kaptol and Gronji grad, are mostly
DONJI GRAD pedestrian areas, as is the central
I Ć E VA Jelačić square, which is served by
BOŠKOV
tram routes joining the eastern
HEB RAN GOV A
and western parts of the city
PR ER A
I Ć E VA STROSSMAYEROV
K O VA Č
TRG MAT IČINA
(see pp280–81). The Jarun sailing
K AT A N
ČIĆEV
A
centre, near the river, can also be
D O V IĆ
TRE NKO VA H A T Z OV A
ŽER JAV IĆEV A of the River Sava (where there is
PETRI NJSKA
TRG
HA UL IK OV
KU MI ČI ĆE
STARČEVIĆEV
TRG
BOTANIČKI VRT GRG URO VA Zagreb
Key
Major sight
Places of interest
Pedestrian zone
Funicular line
q Viceroy’s Palace
The building dates from the 17th century and was
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the Republic.
A
IC
L
U
A
K
IČ
N
S
E
A
M
IC
UL
VA
ŠE
KA
TO
MA
DS
8 . Meštrović Atelier
The great Croatian sculptor
Ivan Meštrović lived in this
Gornji
18th-century building Grad
from 1922 to 1941. About
ten years before his death
CENTRAL
he donated his home and ZAGREB
all the works of art in it to
the state.
Locator Map
0 Parliament Building
This building dates from 1910, when the
A
A
ICA
SA
BA
UL
KA
IČ
AT
OP
MARKOV
TRG
KA
M 9 . Church of St Mark
EN
IT The coloured tiles on the roof of this
A
fine Gothic church form the coats
of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia,
Slavonia and Zagreb.
A
IC
UL
constructed around
OP
y Church of St Catherine
Built on the site of an ancient
0 metres 50
Dominican church, this is the city’s
0 yards 50 most fascinating Baroque building.
162 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
6 Zagreb City
Museum
Muzej grada Zagreba
Opatička ulica 20. Tel (01) 485 13 61.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri; 11am–7pm
Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 8 by appt.
& 7 ^ Kovačić residence:
Masarykova 21. Open 10am–5pm
Thu. Krleža residence: Krležin Gvozd
23. Open 11am–5pm Tue. Dujśin-
Ribar residence: Demetrova 3/II.
Open 11am–5pm Tue. ∑ mgz.hr
Ivan Meštrović
Regarded as one of the most important sculptors of the 20th century, Ivan Meštrović
was born in 1883 in Vrpolje where his parents had gone for the harvest from their
native village of Otavice in the Dalmatian hinterland. As a young boy he delighted in
making figures out of wood, and his work was noticed by the village mayor and by
Lujo Marun, an archaeologist, who sent him to Split when he was 17 to study
sculpture. Thanks to donors, he was able to attend the Academy of Fine Arts in
Vienna, where he designed works for later production. Here he met and became
friends with the great French sculptor, Auguste Rodin. In 1908 he moved to Paris and
his first exhibition established his reputation. He worked in various cities, including
Split – creating many of the works now on show in the Meštrović gallery there – and
Zagreb. He also took up politics: during World War II he was imprisoned by the Nazi
regime and freed on the Vatican's intervention. He then moved to Rome where he
sculpted the Pietà Romana, now in the Vatican Museum. After the war he taught at
universities in the US, where he died in 1962. He was buried in the burial chapel in
Otavice (see p112) that he designed for himself and his family.
Today this is the Upper Town’s Built in Neo-Classical style The museum, founded in
parish church. St Mark’s in 1908 after several 1846, has been housed here
was first mentioned in 17th- and 18th-century since 1959. It illustrates the
1256 when King Bela IV Baroque buildings were history of Croatia from the
granted the town of razed, this building Middle Ages to the present
Gradec permission to holds an important day by means of all kinds of
hold a market fair in place in the story historical mementoes and
front of the church. of Croatia. Historic literature. These include
The fair lasted for proclamations documents and paintings
two weeks and was have been issued of political, military and
held to celebrate from the balcony: cultural events, as well as
the saint’s day. the seceding of the items such as firearms, flags
The church nation from the and medals. The exhibitions
has undergone Mary with Child by Austro-Hungarian are not permanent but
various alterations Meštrović, St Mark’s kingdom (29 change frequently due to
over the centuries. All October 1918) limited space.
that is left from the original and independence from The museum is housed in
construction is a Romanesque Yugoslavia after a referendum the Baroque Vojković-Oršić-
window and a splendid Gothic in 1991. Today the Sabor is still Kulmer-Rauch Palace, which
doorway, created by the the centre of 21st-century dates from the second half
sculptor Ivan Parler between Croat politics. of the 18th century.
1364 and 1377. The 15 niches
on the door contain statues of
Jesus, Mary, St Mark and the
12 apostles. Some of these were
replaced by wooden copies in
the Baroque era.
On various occasions fires
and earthquakes have been
responsible for changes in the
church’s appearance. Its present
look dates from 1882, when the
coloured glazed tiles on the roof
were added. The tiles bear the The Parliament Building (Sabor), built in Neo-Classical style in 1908
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
ZAGREB 165
y Church of
St Catherine
Sv. Katarina
Katarinin trg. Tel (01) 485 19 50.
Open 8am–8pm daily.
The Jesuits built this church in
around 1630 on the site of a
Dominican building. The church
is considered to be one of
the most beautiful religious
buildings in Zagreb. The white
façade has a doorway and four
niches with statues and six
prominent pilasters. Above is
a niche with a statue of Mary.
The single-nave church is
On the hills – rainforest by Ivan Rabuzin (1960), Croatian Museum of Naive Art home to numerous Baroque
works of art. Of particular
e Croatian Museum designed by Hermann Bollé. interest are the stucco reliefs
of Naive Art The interior contains a large
iconostasis that was painted
(1721–3) by Antonio Quadrio,
the Scenes of the Life of
Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti
by the Ukrainian Epaminondas St Catherine by the Slovenian
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Čirilometodska Bučevski, and four large artist Franc Jelovšek (1700–64)
ulica 3. Tel (01) 485 19 11. Open May– paintings by Ivan Tišov. in the medallion on the ceiling,
Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm The adjacent Greek-Catholic a beautiful Altar of St Ignatius by
Sun; Nov–Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, seminary was built in 1774 and the Venetian sculptor Francesco
10am–2pm Sat; 10am–1pm Sun. enlarged at the beginning of Robba (1698–1757) and, on the
Closed public hols. & 8 =
the 20th century. main altar (1762), St Catherine
∑ hmnu.org
among the Alexandrian
Since 1967, this 19th-century Philosophers by Kristof
building with its beautiful Neo-
t Tower of Lotrščak Andrej Jelovšek (1729–76).
Baroque façade has housed Kula Lotrščak In the nearby square called
works from an exhibition of Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Tel (01) Jezuitski trg, there is a fountain
Naive painters which opened 485 17 68. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm with a statue of a Fisherman
in Zagreb in 1952. The paintings Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. with a Serpent by Simeon
are characterized by the use &= Roksandić (1908). Facing this
of vivid colour and a strong is a Jesuit monastery (17th
feeling for narrative. There are Since the middle of the 19th century) and a large building
paintings by the founders of century, the inhabitants of from the same period which
the Naive trend, Ivan Generalić Zagreb have set their clocks was the Jesuit seminary and,
and Mirko Virius, as well as by at noon by the cannons fired later, a boarding school for
the Hlebine School (see p25), from this tower. Dating from boys of noble parentage.
where works by Ivan Večenaj the 13th century, it is one of the
and Mijo Kovačić stand out, oldest buildings in the city.
and artists from other regions At one time this square tower
(Ivan Rabuzin, Slavko Stolnik had a bell, which announced
and Matija Skurjeni). Among the closing of the city gates
the sculptures are several by each evening. Its name comes
Petar Smajič. from the latin campana
latruncolorum – bell of thieves –
anyone left outside at night ran
r Church of SS. Cyril
the risk of being robbed.
and Methodius The tower originally stood
Sv. Ćiril i Metod alongside the southern side of
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Ćirilometodska the walls of Gradec. Even at that
ulica 1. Tel (01) 48517 73. time, the walls, nearly 2 m (6 ft)
thick, were built with chains
First built in around 1830 in inside them as an anti-
Neo-Classical style by the earthquake measure.
architect Bartol Felbinger The tower now houses a
(1785–1871), the church was gallery. It is worth climbing to
rebuilt after the earthquake of the top for spectacular views Rich Baroque interior of the Church
1880 in a Neo-Byzantine style over the city. of St Catherine
166 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
o Mimara Museum
Muzej Mimara
Rooseveltov trg 5. Tel (01) 482 81 00.
Open Oct–Jun: 10am–5pm Tue,
Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–7pm Thu,
10am–2pm Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–7pm
Tue–Fri, 10am– 5pm Sat, 10am–2pm
Sun. Closed Mon. & 8 =
∑ mimara.hr
Gundulić Imagining Osman by Vlaho Bukovac, founder of modern Croat painting, Modern Gallery
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
ZAGREB 169
Gallery Guide
The gallery is on the second floor
of the building. Exhibits include
works by important Italian,
German, Flemish and French
masters, representing schools
and artistic trends from the
14th to the 19th century. Before Madame Recamier
visiting the gallery, note, in the This portrait by Antoine Jean Gros
entrance hall, the Baška Tablet, (1771–1835) was probably painted
one of the oldest documents of around 1825. Madame Recamier was
Croat culture (11th century), a leading figure of some notoriety in
written in Glagolitic script. Parisian high society of that time.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
ZAGREB 171
. St Augustine and
St Benedict
The work reveals the
expressive skill of the
great Venetian master,
Giovanni Bellini (1430–
1516). The figures of
the saints occupy
simple niches.
. St Sebastian
This delicate image of the saint
by Vittore Carpaccio (1465–1525)
was part of a polyptych. In this
painting with its vivid colouring,
Main entrance the Venetian master expresses the
drama of the martyrdom through
the smile of the young man at the
moment of his death.
C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A 173
CENTRAL CROATIA
Central Croatia is bordered to the west by the vine-covered hills of Samobor,
which continue on towards Karlovac and Ogulin, and to the south by the
Bosnia-Herzegovina border as far as Jasenovac. To the northeast is a stretch of
fertile valley formed by the Sava river, which runs from Zagreb to the Lonjsko
Polje Nature Park. These wetlands, south of Sisak, are home to all kinds of birds.
This region of Croatia has long been a Serbian refugees were brought in,
meeting point for different civilizations. along with minorities of Vlachs,
Until the 12th century BC, this area was Albanians, Montenegrin and German-
inhabited by the Illyrians, who were speaking groups. Villages sprang up
joined by Celts in the 4th century BC. which were inhabited by Catholics,
The first Illyrian cities became Roman Muslims and people of the Orthodox
towns after the 1st century AD. The most faith. These diverse communities lived
important was Siscia (now called Sisak), together without any serious tension
which was sacked by the Huns in 441 and until the mid-19th century, when
raided by the Avars in the 6th century. feelings of nationalism swept across
The southern border with Bosnia, which Europe. The most recent war, fought
dates back to 271 AD, was confirmed at in the name of nationalism, created
the time of the division between the widespread destruction and resulted
Western and Eastern Churches in 1054, in thousands of Serbs choosing to
and later re-confirmed when the Turks leave the region.
occupied the Balkans. To stop the This part of Croatia is the area least
continuous Turkish raids, in 1578 the visited by tourists, although it offers
Austrian Emperor established a Vojna magnificent scenery with rivers and
krajina (Military Frontier) in areas which wood-covered hills and good Croatian
had mostly been abandoned by the cuisine. There is plenty to see, with
Croats, who had fled to the coastal cities ancient castles, churches, museums
for refuge. To help guard the borders, and nature reserves.
Ku p a
JASTREBARSKO GRAD ZAGREB
OZALJ
Kup Buševec
Pokupsko
KARLOVAC
a
Duga Resa
Interior of the Church of St Mary
in Jastrebarsko
Tušilović
Rijeka Glina
Vojnić
K A R L O VA Č K A
a
TOPUSKO TOPLICE
in
Ve
Gl
OGULIN
li
ka
Josipdol
Kor
K
ap
ana
Slunj
el
Drežnica
a
Plaški
Zadar Broćanac
M
a
la
Rakovica
Getting Around K
a
The road network which crosses central p
el
Croatia is good. Recently roads have been a
improved and the motorways extended. From
Zagreb the A3 motorway goes to Samobor and
the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park. State road number
30 serves Sisak, while a secondary road network
connects the other towns. All the main towns
0 kilometres 20
and cities are served by the Croatian railway
system, except for the city of Samobor. Buses 0 miles 20
go to all villages, however small.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247
C E N T R A L C R O AT I A 175
8 Sisak
Locator Map
9 Hrvatska Kostajnica
Bjelovar Ðurdevac
Varaždin
Vrbovec
Dubrava
Česma
Dugo Selo
B J E L O VA R S K O -
Kloštar
Ivanić Čazma BILOGORSKA Veliki
Grđevac
Virovitica
va
čk Garešnički Slatina
Brestovac
a
GARIĆ Daruvar
Go
ra
Popovača Garešnica
pa O
L
N KUTINA
Ku SISAK JS
K
O
Moščenica PO
Petrinja
LJ
Gora S a v a Čigoć E
NA NOVSKA
TU
Blinja Sunja RE
PA
RK
S I S A Č K O - M O S L AVA Č K A
JASENOVAC
HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA River Sava near Sisak
ra
Go
a
nsk
Zri Zrin
a
Un
Dvor
Key
Motorway
Motorway under
construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
Vine-covered hills around Okić International border
R St Anastasia
The main altar in the Church of St Mary, Ulica sv. Ane 2. Tel (01) 336 00 82.
Samobor Open by appt.
E Civic Museum
1 Samobor Livadićeva 7. Tel (01) 336 10 14.
Map C2. * 15,000. @ (01) 336 72 Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 9am–7pm
76. n Trg kralja Tomislava 5, (01) 336 Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, 10am–5pm Sun.
00 44. _ Carnival (Feb); Day of the &8^=
city (3rd Sat in Oct). ∑ tz–samobor.hr
9 Hrvatska
Kostajnica
Map D2. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb,
The tulip-shaped monument by Bogdanović in Jasenovac Memorial Site
Sisak. @ from Zagreb, Sisak.
n Vladimira Nazora 17, (044) 851 800. to the Bribir princes of Šubić. Bogdan Bogdanović now stands
A branch of the family took the in what was formerly the camp’s
Standing on the left bank of the name of Zrinski after the village centre. The monument and the
River Una which, for much of its around the castle. It was Memorial Museum are part of
length, marks the border occupied by the Turks from Jasenovac Memorial Site.
between Croatia and Bosnia- 1577 until the end of the 17th
Herzegovina, this town still bears century when they destroyed it.
the signs of damage from the The Zrinskis played a key role
war in the 1990s. By the river, in Croatia’s history: as fierce
near a bridge, is a renovated defenders against the Turks;
castle built in the Middle Ages then as the authors of the failed
but frequently razed. Only three attempt to free the territory
towers connected by a high from Habsburg rule (see p181).
wall remain in the wake of
the last war. The Church and
Monastery of St Anthony of 0 Jasenovac
Padua, built after the Turks left
Map E2. * 800. £ from Sisak.
at the end of the 17th century, @ from Sisak. n Trg kralja Petra
have been restored and are Svačića 3, (044) 672 490.
discreetly furnished (some of Church of St Luke in Novska
the Baroque altars were famous This town is notorious as the
for their beauty). place where, during World War II, q Novska
tens of thousands of prisoners Map E2. * 7,500. £ from Zagreb,
Environs of war, Jews, Gypsies, Serbs Sisak, (044) 892 421. @ from Zagreb,
Around 14 km (9 miles) to the and Croats, perished in the Sisak. n Ulica kralja Tomislava 2,
southwest is Zrin, where the concentration camp which was (044) 600 062.
ruins of a castle built in the 14th located here. In memory of this
century by the Babonić family terrible genocide, a large tulip- The town of Novska is the
stand on a hill. In 1347 it passed shaped monument by the artist starting point for visiting the
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park (see
p180) and for excursions to the
Psunj mountains. A number of
recreational sports can be
enjoyed here too.
The Church of St Luke
(Sv. Luka) is a Baroque church
dating from 1775. It has a fine
altar and a painting by the
modern painter Z Šulentić.
In the Bauer Gallery there
are many works by Naive
and contemporary artists.
Novska’s economy is based on
industry and trade, and rail and
The castle of medieval origins in Kostajnica, on the banks of the Una road links are good.
180 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
e Kutina Environs
Around 50 km (31 miles) north-
Map D2. * 15,000. £ (060) 333 444.
@ (060) 355 060. n Tržna 8, (044) west of Kutina is Ivanić-Grad
681 004. ∑ turizam-kutina.hr and the nearby towns of Kloštar
Ivanić and Križ. In Ivanić-Grad
Kutina, in the Moslavina region, there are workshops making
was built over the ruins of a pretty flax and linen products,
Roman castrum (a Roman keeping local traditions alive.
military camp or fort) and In Kloštar Ivanić there
numerous archaeological finds is a Franciscan monastery
have been discovered. The founded in 1508 and the
town is linked to two castles; church of St Mary (Sv. Marija),
Kutinjac Grad, documented with collections of silver,
in 1256, and the fortress of paintings and richly illustrated
Plovdin; however, only ruins music codices.
and parts of the walls remain. In Križ, the parish church
Nesting storks in the Lonjsko Polje Kutina flourished again in of the Cross was founded by
Nature Park the 17th century, developing the Knights Templar in the
on the plain south of the 11th century. The church has a
w Lonjsko Polje fortress. It is here that the decorative Baroque interior and
Nature Park Church of Our Lady of the a magnificent 1787 organ.
Snow (Marija Snježna) was
Map D2. Park office (Krapje): n (044) built by Count Karl Erdödy in
672 080. Entrance at Čigoć: n (044) around 1770. The church is
715 115. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm
surrounded by a covered
daily; Nov–Mar: by appt. &
∑ pp-lonjsko-polje.hr
portico and is decorated inside
with stucco and trompe-l’oeil
The wide bend in the River paintings by Josip Görner. The
Sava between Sisak and Stara sculpture and the inlaid
Gradiška has been a special wooden furnishings which
ornithological reserve since enclose the altar of the Holy
1963. It became a nature Sepulchre are a unique example
reserve in 1990 to protect an of Baroque composition.
area of 506 sq km (195 sq miles). Erdödy Castle, which was
This vast area was regularly rebuilt in 1895, houses the
flooded by the river and its Museum of Moslavina
tributaries (Lonja, Ilova, Pakra (Muzej Moslavine), which Some remains of the old fortifications
and Čazma) during the thaw, tells the history and folklore around Garić
and in the summer and early of Moslavina through an
autumn the waters would extensive collection of r Garić
recede. Since the 1960s parts documents, objects and Map D2. * 76 (Podgarić).
of the wetlands have been traditional costumes. n Regional: Dr. Ante Starčevića 8,
drained, but they still remain Bjelovar, (043) 221 928.
some of Europe’s most E Museum of Moslavina
important marshland. Trg kralja Tomislava 13. Tel (044) 683 On a hill in the Moslavačka
Woods of oak, poplar, ash and 548. Open 8am–1pm Tue–Fri. chain (Moslavačka Gora) near
willow trees grow along the Podgarić stand the ruins of the
banks of the river and on the fortified town of Garić, noted
higher ground, while the dry as a castrum in 1256. In 1277,
fields are used as grazing for it was granted by the king to
sheep in the summer months. Timotej, Bishop of Zagreb, who
Wild boar live here, as well as entrusted its defence to the
deer, and there are also counts of Gardun, and later to
Turopolje pigs and Posavina the counts of Celje. Nearby,
horses, both of which are below Garić, the Pauline order
protected species. founded the monastery of
The park is an important St Mary in 1295. In 1544 the
stopping place for black storks, town and the monastery were
which arrive in spring and leave destroyed by the Turks.
in autumn after nesting, for The fortified town was
numerous species of heron, for protected by high walls and was
egrets and a variety of birds of an irregular shape. There was a
prey, including the rare harrier Interior of the Church of Our Lady of the moat with towers, and further
and white-tailed eagles. Snow in Kutina towers inside the walls.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and p247
C E N T R A L C R O AT I A 181
Fran Krsto
Frankopan awaiting
execution
Petar Zrinski
First inhabited by the Illyrians, present- until 1689. To confront the constant
day Slavonia and Baranja came into disputes between the Turks and the Holy
contact with the Roman world in the Roman Empire, the Habsburgs set up a
2nd century BC. It took the Romans more Military Frontier (Vojna krajina), which
than 200 years to subdue the inhabitants lasted until 1881, when Austria-Hungary
of this region, which they referred to as took Bosnia-Herzegovina from the
Pannonia. From 402 Pannonia was Turks. The frontier was abolished and
invaded, first by the Goths, then the absorbed into Croatia.
Huns, Visigoths, Burgundians, Gepids, When war broke out in 1991, the
Longobards, Sarmatians and finally the presence of Serb villages was a pretext
Avars. When the Slavs arrived, very little for the Serbian occupation of Slavonia.
remained of Roman rule, and the land, In 1995, under the auspices of the United
ever since then called Slavonia, was Nations, control of Slavonia reverted back
practically uninhabited. to the Croatians. Although war damage is
In 925 the Kingdom of the Croat still visible along the border, particularly in
Sovereigns was set up and this lasted Vukovar, great efforts are being made with
until 1097, when King Koloman came to rebuilding and Slavonia is once again well
rule Slavonia and created the Hungarian- worth visiting for its historical treasures. It
Croat kingdom. Following the Battle of is also an area of great natural beauty and
Mohács in 1526, Slavonia became part of includes the nature reserve of Kopački rit,
the Ottoman Empire, and remained so a wetlands sanctuary for wildfowl.
TOPOLJE
Batina
Beli
Da
Manastir
nu
DONJI MIHOLJAC
Kneževi
be
D ra Vinogradi
va Traditional costumes of Bizovac
VALPOVO
EP T
K
NATUR KI RI
AR
Petnjevci
DARDA
BIZOVAC
Č
Bilje
KOPA
OSIJEK
Brođanci
Čepin Tenja ERDUT
OSJEČKO- Antunovac Dalj
BARANJSKA
Vu
ka
ERNESTINOVO 0 kilometres 15
Borovo 0 miles 15
Nuštar VUKOVAR
Jarmina
ĐAKOVO
Da
Ivankovo VINKOVCI
nu
NOVI MIKANOVCI be
Rokovci
ŠARENGRAD ILOK
Donji VRPOLJE
Cerna VUKOVARSKO-
Andrijevci
Gradište
SRIJEMSKA Tovarnik
Velika
Kopanica Babina Greda Otok
Bo
su
ŽUPANJA Belgrade
t
Zenica
Sarajevo
Key Gunja
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Ruins of Grad Ružica, near Orahovica
For keys to symbols see back flap
188 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
1 Daruvar
Map E2. * 10,000. k Osijek, 130 km
(81 miles); Zagreb, 150 km (93 miles).
£ @ n Trg kralja Tomislava 12,
(043) 331 382. _ Wine exhibition
(May/June). ∑ visitdaruvar.hr
9 Novi Mikanovci
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km
(2 miles). n (032) 338 425.
E Civic Museum
Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri,
9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 Mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
192 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
SLAVONIA AND BARANJA 193
o Topolje Environs
Bilje, 4 km (2 miles) south
Map F2. * 200. k Osijek, 46 km
of Darda, is the site of the
(28 miles). £ Beli Manastir, 16 km (10
miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional: information office for the
Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852. Kopački Rit Nature Park (see
pp198–9). It is housed in a
In 1687, after the victory in palace built by Prince Eugene
Vienna over the Turks, Prince of Savoy, who was granted the
Eugene of Savoy, commander small town of Bilje after the
of the Imperial forces, decided Hungarian-style houses with chilli peppers victory in Vienna over the
to build a church to hanging to dry, Topolje Turks (1687).
194 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
Central European city with wide roads linking three districts: Northeast of the main square,
on the site of a sacred medieval
the Fort (Tvrđa), Lower Town (Donji grad) and Upper Town building, stands the Church
(Gornji grad). The city developed in 1786 when the three of the Holy Cross, built by the
areas merged. Due to its position on the River Drava, Osijek Franciscans between 1709
has always played a strategic role. In 1809 Emperor Francis I and 1720. Next to this is the
declared it a Royal Free Town (this document is now in the monastery (1699–1767) which
Museum of Slavonia). In 1991, after the declaration of housed the first printing press
in Slavonia (1735), and from
independence by Croatia, the city was bombed for over a the mid-18th century also
year by Yugoslav forces and much of the old centre (Upper housed schools of philosophy
Town) was damaged. Liberated in 1995, in 1998 Osijek and theology. In the church
became part of the Croat state again. is a statue of the Virgin from
the 15th century and some
liturgical furnishings.
R Church of St Michael
Sv. Mihovil
Trg Jurja Križanića, Tvrđa.
Tel (031) 208 990.
Open before Mass.
Standing a little way back from
the square is the Church of
St Michael, which was built by
the Jesuits. The façade is flanked
by two bell towers, and the
monastery has a splendid
doorway (1719). Below street
level the foundations of the
16th-century Kasim-paša
The main square in the heart of Tvrđa mosque are still visible.
GO
RN Drava
JO
O B D R AV Footbridge
AL
A SKA
R I B AR S KA
Š E TA L I
ŠTE KARD
. FR A NJE ŠE PERA
ŠAM TRG
AČKA
Church of VATROSLAVA
SS Peter TRG ANTE
LISINSKOG Church of the
KARDINAL
O R F ER
LO RE N ZA JÄGE R A
IR
TRG SVETOG A
St James
Museum of
M
TROJSTVA
PI
FR A Slavonia
NJE
A A LO J Z I J A
TR
TRG L. KUH
MIRSKOG AČA
D . N EU M ANA
National JÄGEROV KA
PROLAZ AVE
KN
Theatre NIJA
KA
K R A LJ
A
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EŽ M E
EBAČ
UBL IK E IM I R A
KA
GAJA
A
F. K R
ZAGR
ANA
Ž U PA NI JS
VA N I J
R IČ A
SUNĆ
RŠO
R SK A
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D. C
VU
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GUNDUL IĆEVA Train Station Bus Station RS
KA
400 m (440 yards) 400 m (440 yards) CE
S TA
TRG J.
KRIŽ ANIĆ A
FR
A
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K SVE TOG
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Croatian Academy of RI
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Science and Arts ER
A
Key
Plague Column
Suggested route The centre of the square is
dominated by the “column
of the plague”, erected in 1729
in thanks for the
ending of an
outbreak of
the disease.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
OSIJEK 197
0 metres 100
IĆ
Č
0 yards 100
N
A
T
A
LISINSKOG
A
SK
B
O
SE
ET
N
D
O
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FE
KU
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R Darda
A
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(see p193)
VA
JE
A
IR
AN
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FR
FR JA R
T
A G A
N IĆ Z
JE A E
N
K
K
A
U
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Č
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VA
JE
AN
Ðakovo
FR
(see p190)
Park Entrance
The main
entrance to the
Kopački Rit Park
is in the village
of Bilje (see p193).
Osijek
ŝ Canal
0 kilometres
Sakada
0 miles 2
Sarvaška
Pond
Black Storks are rare;
only a few dozen pairs
of the bird inhabit
the park.
Drava
Drava
White-Tailed Eagle
The many birds of
prey maintain a
Lakes balance among the
Forty different species of fish live bird population. The
in the lakes and ponds which white-tailed eagle is the
form in the park. rarest eagle in Europe.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
SLAVONIA AND BARANJA 199
Waterfowl
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ponds and lakes provide
an ideal habitat for the
Practical Information
wading birds and swans
Map F–G2. n Ritska bb, Bilje,
which are present all
Kopačevo, (031) 445 445.
year round.
Open Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm
daily; Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily.
& 8 Information on boat
rides and bike hire available
at the entrance.
Deer and Roe Deer in their ∑ pp-kopacki-rit.hr
hundreds congregate in the
flooded areas of the park,
for brief periods of the year.
be
nu
Da
Great Crested Grebe
The mating display of
these birds is one of the
more spectacular sights
in the park.
Kopačko
Lake
Da
nu
be
Wild Boar
Drava During the spring it is
sometimes possible to see
whole families of this shy
animal in the oak woods.
Cormorant
Usually found in colonies, cormorants Key
build their nests in trees. Here,
thousands of their nests can be seen Major road
in the tall willow and poplar trees. Scenic road
f Našice two-storey building has been second half of the 13th century
restored. This building is now by the Aba counts. Today, the
Map F2. * 8,500. k Osijek, 42 km
(26 miles). £ (060) 333 444. @ (060)
the Civic Museum. houses in Voćin are in ruins. All
334 030. n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4, that remains of the Church of
(031) 614 951. ∑ tznasice.hr
E Civic Museum St Mary (Sv. Marija), which was
Pejačevićev trg 5. Tel (031) 613 414. built by King John Corvinus in
A small plateau is the setting Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. & the first half of the 15th century,
for the town of Našice, which 8 (by appt). ^ ∑ zmn.hr is part of the apse wall.
is surrounded by vineyards
and woods. Built on the site
of an ancient settlement, it g Orahovica
was referred to in the first Map F2. * 4,300. k Osijek,
half of the 13th century under 62 km (38 miles). £ (033) 646 079.
the name of Nekche, as @ (033) 673 231. n Trg sv. Florijana
property of the Knights bb, (033) 673 540. _ Spring in
Templar. After the dissolution Orahovica: folklore event (Jun).
of this order in 1312, it passed ∑ tzgorahovica.hr
to the Gorjanski nobles and,
later, through marriage to the The town of Orahovica is well
counts of Ilok, before falling known in Croatia for its wines.
into the hands of the Turkish It was a feudal estate in 1228,
forces in 1532. and later a Turkish garrison,
After the expulsion of the acquiring its present-day look
Turks, Našice’s fortunes in the 18th century.
changed. The Franciscans On one of the hills around Ornate altar in the Baroque church
returned and restored the the town stand the ruins of the of St Roch, Virovitica
Church of St Anthony of castle Rose town (Ružica grad),
Padua (Sv. Antun Padovanski). one of the largest of Croatia’s h Virovitica
They also rebuilt their medieval forts. The walls were
Map E2. * 16,000. k Osijek, 89 km
monastery, which had been 9m (29 ft) thick and enclosed
(55 miles). £ Ulica Stjepana Radića,
founded here at the start of military buildings, a church, (033) 730 121. @ Trg fra. B. Gerbera 1,
the 14th century. Both needed and the governor’s residence. (033) 721 113. n Trg Kralja Tomislava 1,
repairing after war damage The complex was so large it (033) 721 241. _ Day of the City
suffered in 1991. was often referred to as a city. (16 Aug). ∑ tz-virovitica.hr
A short distance away is The Turks burnt down the fort,
a large manor house, built then partially restored it and Documents from the end of
at the beginning of the used it as a military garrison. the first millennium give the
19th century in Neo-Classical Liberated in 1690, the fort was town its name of Wereuche.
style by the Pejačević family, once again used for defence, It was declared a free town by
where the musician Dora and a village, inhabited by Serbs, King Coloman in 1234 and it
Pejačević (1885–1923) lived. developed around its base. developed into an agricultural
Situated in a large park, the and trading centre. Later
Environs occupied by the Turks, it
Along the road to remained under their rule until
Kutjevo, 5 km (3 miles) 1684. When it later flourished, all
south of Orahovica, Ottoman traces were destroyed.
near the village of The Baroque Church of
Duzluk, is the Orthodox St Roch (Sv. Rok), decorated
Monastery of St Nicholas by the sculptor Holzinger and
(Manastir Sv. Nikola), the painter Göbler, dates from
which has ancient the 18th century. On the site of
frescoes and the ancient Wasserburg Castle
illuminated manuscripts. stands the imposing Pejačević
Some 30 km (18 miles) Manor (1800–4), now the Civic
from Orahovica, Museum (Gradski muzej) with
following the road to archaeological and folklore
Virovitica, then turning collections and an art gallery.
left for Čeralije, is Voćin,
a small village where E Civic Museum
the destruction caused Dvorac Pejačević, Trg bana Jelačića 23.
by the war in 1991 is Tel (033) 722 127. Open 8am–3pm
still evident. The village Mon, Fri; 8am–7pm Tue–Thu;
lies at the foot of a large 10am–1pm Sat. & 8 (by appt).
Church of St Anthony of Padua in Našice castle built in the ^ ∑ muzejvirovitica.hr
C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A 203
THE NORTHERN
COUNTIES
The landscape in this part of Croatia is made up of a variety of elements: the
rolling hills of Zagorje with their therapeutic spring waters and thermal spas;
the county of Međimurje, which is famous for its wines; the cities of Varaždin
and Čakovec, which developed around ancient castles; Koprivnica, surrounded
by lush countryside and vineyards, and Bjelovar and Križevci with their palaces.
The principal towns in the area have The high hills of Zagorje are covered in
ancient origins and two, Varaždin and forests, broken up only by the clearings
Križevci, were also at various times the created for imposing medieval castles,
seat of the Sabor, the Croatian Parliament. many of which have since been
Bjelovar is the most recent and largest transformed into sumptuous Baroque
city-fortress in the country. Even before residences. In Podravina, drained by the
the 1991 war which affected the south of River Drava, which in some parts flows
this area, the wars of the second half of the along the Hungarian border, the hills are
18th century had already destroyed all lower and are characterized by vineyards
evidence of the Middle Ages and Turkish and sparse woodland.
occupation. However, there are many This part of Croatia has preserved all
religious buildings in the area, including kinds of ancient customs and traditions,
a number of Catholic Franciscan and a source of inspiration for the Naive art
Pauline monasteries in places once movement. The home of Naive art is
inhabited by Orthodox communities. Hlebine, where artists such as Ivan
Religious life is still very active here and Generalić encouraged and fostered the
church buildings are cherished. talent of local amateur painters.
ŠTRIGOVA
Maribor
VINICA
VARAŽDIN
Maribor
Kneginec
The castle in Veliki Tabor TRAKOŠĆAN
VA R A Ž D I N S K A
Ivanec
LEPOGLAVA
PREGRADA Podrute
VELIKI
KRAPINA Ivanščica
TABOR KRAPINSKO- Mihovljan
BELEC
Novi
Marof
Miljana ZAGORSKA AS
Zlatar
SP
Krapinske
R MAL
KUMROVEC Toplice E THE
TOUR OF TH
KLANJEC BEDEKOVČINA Konjćina
Krapina
Zabok
MARIJA BISTRICA
0 kilometres 15 Oroslavje
0 miles 15 Sveti Ivan
Stubičke Toplice Zelina
Jakovlje ca
d ni Kašina
d ve
Zaprešić
Me
Zagreb Zagreb
Sights at a Glance
1 Varaždin pp206–7 0 Kumrovec p Bjelovar
2 Čakovec q Klanjec a Križevci
3 Štrigova w Bedekovčina
Tour
4 Vinica e Marija Bistrica
5 Lepoglava t Belec r Tour of the Thermal Spas
6 Trakošćan y Varaždinske Toplice pp216–17
7 Krapina u Ludbreg
8 Pregrada i Koprivnica
9 Veliki Tabor o Ðurđevac
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 205
Mursko
Središče
Podturen
Domašinec
MEĐIMURSKA Nagykanizsa
ČAKOVEC Goričan
Kotoriba
Mala
Subotica Donja
Dubrava
VARAŽDINSKE
TOPLICE Peteranec
KOPRIVNICA Hlebine
Apatovec
Reka Koprivnički Bregi
Sokolovac
Vukovec
K O P R I V N I Č K O - K R I Ž E VA Č K A
Carevdar
Novigrad-
Podravski
ĐURÐEVAC
KRIŽEVCI
Hampovica
Vel. Raven
Sv. Ivan
Žabno Predavac Virovitica
Vrbovec BJELOVAR
Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Varaždin Castle in winter
For keys to symbols see back flap
206 C R O AT I A A R E A B Y A R E A
4 Cathedral of the
Gallery of Old
Assumption and Modern Masters
A.
ŠEN
5 Church of St John
L J. GAJE
P. P
A
OE
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the Baptist
RE
VČ
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O
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PA
6 Hercer Palace Town Hall
S.
URŠU
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V. LI
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Ursuline SQUARE
AZ
the Baptist
IČA
8 National Theatre
A
U.
Assumption
IĆ E V
A Patačiċ
N D U L IĆ
KAČ Palace VA
IĆE
DRA
DEL
HAB
ŠKO
GU
V IĆ
Church of
E VA
SA
CE
IN A
Z R IN
A.
S K IH
KAPUCINSKI National
TRG Theatre
I FRA
K O VA
Church of
N
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KOP
the Holy
BL AŽ E
Trinity
ANA
0 yards 200
Bus
Station
Environs
In the village of Šenkovec, 2 km
(1 mile) from Čakovec, stands
the Church of St Helen (Sv.
Old and New Castles of Čakovec Jelena). What little remains of its
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 209
original Gothic form has been 17th century. At one time the
integrated into an overall palace was famous for its rich
Baroque appearance. The furnishings, its art collections,
church is all that survives of and for the fact that the
the monastery founded by the Hungarian king, Matthias
Paulines in 1376. It has Corvinus, was often a
been rebuilt at various guest here.
times, firstly after a The Church of
Protestant revolt, then St Jerome (Sv.
because of a fire and Jerolim) stands on
finally after an a hill at the edge of
earthquake. the village. Restoration
Inside the church has uncovered the
are the tombstones of Fresco on the door of the frescoes above
the powerful Zrinski church of St Jerome, the doorway and
family, the lords of Štrigova in the niches on
Čakovec: that of the façade, which is Frescoed façade of the Church of
Nikola Zrinski and his wife flanked by two harmonious St Jerome, Štrigova
Catherine Frankopan, and bell towers and culminates in
also that of Petar Zrinski. a curvilinear tympanum. Drašković counts, which was
The church also contains a In the church are numerous situated in the centre of a
number of tombs of members trompe-l’œil paintings by the large park.
of the Knežević family, who Tyrolean artist Ivan Ranger In the late 19th century,
became the successors to (see p210), depicting Angels, Count Marko Bombelles created
the Zrinskis. the Evangelists and the Life of Opeka Park, 2 km (1 mile) south
St Jerome. There are also statues of Vinica. This large arboretum
representing the fathers of was at that time the only one
the Church. of its kind in Croatia. Here
Bombelles planted exotic trees
and plants from around the
4 Vinica world, including the Americas,
Map D1. * 1,200. @ from
Japan, Tibet and the Caucasus,
Varaždin. n Trg Matije Gupca 14, over an area of flat and
(042) 722 233. hilly ground.
Next to this wonderful
This small town lies at the foot park, declared a protected
of vine-covered hills. It was first nature reserve in 1961, a school
mentioned in documents of of horticulture has been set
1353 as the site of a medieval up. This school has several
fortress. At one time it was glasshouses and a large garden
known for the large palace built of flowering plants.
by the Patačić counts on the site
One of the frescoes decorating the church of their old castle. The palace is Y Opeka Park
of St Helen, Čakovec now in ruins, as is that of the Open at all times.
3 Štrigova
Map D1. * 450. £ from Čakovec.
@ from Čakovec. n Štrigova 22a,
(040) 851 325. ∑ strigova.info
R Church of St Mary
Trg 1. hrvatskog sveučilišta 3.
Tel (042) 792 566. Open by appt.
6 Trakošćan
Map D1. @ for Trakošćan.
n Trakošćan, (042) 796 281.
∑ trakoscan.hr
E Museum of Krapina
Neanderthal Men
Šetalište V Sluge bb. Tel (049) 371 491.
Open Mar & Oct: 9am–6pm Tue-Sun;
Apr–Jun & Sep: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–
7pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am– 4pm
Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8
by appt. ^
Castle of Trakošćan, now a museum
Environs
During the second half of the presentations and exhibits Just northeast of Krapina is the
19th century, it was transformed explore the life and culture of sanctuary of the Madonna of
into a splendid Neo-Gothic Neanderthal man. Jerusalem in Trški Vrh, a magnif-
residence by Juraj Drašković. Krapina is first documented in icent example of Baroque art in
He also added an artificial lake, 1193 as the site of a castle, Croatia. Built in 1750–61, on
a park and gardens, while at now destroyed, built to a square plan, the façade
the same time preserving some guard the river of the has a bell tower with an
of the military aspects of the same name. After the onion dome. Inside is
castle. It stands on a wooded danger of Turkish an arched portico with
hilltop and is surrounded by a attack had passed, rounded corners
high wall with a tower, which it was conceded and four chapels
encircles the imposing palace. to the Keglević similar to the
All 32 of the rooms of the counts and tower. The walls,
castle are now a museum became an vaults, ceilings and
where furniture, armoury, important dome of the church
vestments and paintings, as administrative town. are covered with a
well as a rare series of portraits It also became a religious cycle of frescoes of biblical
of the Drašković family, are centre. In the mid-17th subjects and scenes from
on display. century, a Franciscan Mary’s life by the
monastery and the Bust of Ljudevit Styrian artist, Anton
P Castle and Museum Baroque Church of Gaj, Krapina Lerchinger. The
Tel (042) 796 422. Open Apr–Oct: St Catherine were built. ornate main altar
9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm The sacristy and some of the (with a statue of the Virgin
daily. & 8 ^ = monastery rooms are decorated brought from Jerusalem in
with vivid frescoes by Ivan Ranger. 1669) is by sculptor Filip Jacob
In one of the town squares is Straub of Graz, while the pulpit
7 Krapina a monument to Ljudevit Gaj, and the other three altars are
Map D1. * 4,500. £ Frana Galovića
born in Krapina in 1809. During the work of Anton Mersi.
bb, (049) 328 028. @ A. Starčevića,
(049) 315 018. n Magistratska 28,
(049) 371 330. _ Week of music
and Kajkaviana culture (Sep).
∑ tzg-krapina.hr
e Marija Bistrica
Map D1. * 1,000. £ Zlatar Bistrica,
5 km (3 miles). @ from Zagreb.
n Zagrebačka bb, (049) 468 380.
_ Summer in Marija Bistrica (Jun–
Aug). ∑ tz-marija-bistrica.hr
5 Sutinske Toplice
4 Krapinske Toplice Located 8 km (5 miles) northwest of
This thermal spa was Zlatar, at an altitude of 170 m (557 ft),
built in the second half this site has been famous since the
of the 19th century near 13th century for its curative waters,
a hot water spring rich in which are slightly radioactive and rich
calcium, magnesium and in minerals, particularly calcium and
carbonate. The hospital treats magnesium. Mud baths are particularly
rheumatic, cardiovascular and effective for the treatment of a variety
neurological illnesses with of ailments. Outdoor pools only.
bathing in its three indoor
pools (the hotel also has out
door pools and a whirlpool)
and mud treatments.
Belec
Mihovljan
Krapina
Donja
Šemnica
Zlatar
Zlatar
Bistrica
Key
Tour route
Motorway
Other roads
3 Terme Tuhelj
This spa town is 2 Stubičke Toplice
40 km (25 miles) This spa is located at the foot of Mount
from Zagreb. At the Medvednica, 3 km (2 miles) from Donja
hotel with its eight Stubica. The spa dates from 1776. There
pools, rheumatic, is a hospital here that specializes in the
respiratory, urological treatment of degenerative diseases of
and gynaecological the joints and spine. The hot spa waters
illnesses are treated. emerge at 69°C (156°F).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9
THE NORTHERN COUNTIES 217
WHERE TO STAY
Croatia is one of the boom destinations of backpacker hostels is also on the rise,
European tourism and accommodation and there are plenty of well-equipped,
facilities are going through a dynamic idyllically situated campsites along the
period of expansion and improvement. coast. Numerous tour operators and travel
This means that there is a great deal of agencies offer package holidays to different
choice available to visitors. There are plenty resorts in Croatia, but it is not difficult to
of modern hotels, apartments and holiday make your own travel arrangements.
villages, especially along the coast. Rooms Accommodation is best booked in advance,
and apartments rented privately by their and planning ahead is a good idea if you
owners represent a particularly inexpensive are intending to visit in the peak summer
option. The number of B&Bs and boutique months of June, July and August.
Prices
All accommodation prices
in Croatia are seasonal, with
the cheapest rates occurring
in winter and the most
expensive coinciding with
the high summer season –
which used to mean July
and August, but which is
now spreading to June and
September as well.
During the high season
accommodation in Croatia
can be just as expensive as
(if not more than) anywhere
“Birdcage” balcony, Lešić-Dimitri Palace hotel, Korčula (see p229) else in the Mediterranean –
especially in fashionable
Hotels of larger luxury hotels, including destinations such as Dubrovnik,
Tourism first boomed in Croatia several belonging to well-known Hvar and Split. Bargains might
in the 1970s and 1980s and international hotel chains. There be found in the shoulder
most of the hotels, particularly are also a growing number of seasons of April, May and
those in the resorts along the boutique and design hotels in October; and winter is in
coast, date from this period. fashionable destinations such general a more inexpensive
Facilities are generally up to as Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar. time to travel – although
modern standards although The facilities and services be aware that many hotels
decor and furnishings can offered by these hotels are of situated on the coast close
seem rather anonymous. Recent a very high standard, which is their doors for at least a few
years have seen many hotels reflected in the prices. months out of season.
renovated and upgraded,
providing a growing stock of
4- and 5-star accommodation.
Grand hotels erected in the
late 19th and early 20th century
can be found in Zagreb, the
capital, and in Opatija, in the
Kvarner gulf. Opatija became
a popular seaside resort at the
time of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire, when the Habsburg
aristocracy were regular visitors,
and it still has several hotels
dating from this time. They offer
a somewhat faded elegance
not found in the more modern
multistorey buildings along
the coast. Both Zagreb and
Dubrovnik also have a number Fresh* Sheets Kathedral Dubrovnik, overlooking a pretty square in Dubrovnik (see p228)
W H E R E TO S TAY 223
represent an inexpensive
alternative to hotel
accommodation for those
travelling as a family or as a
group. Apartments usually
have a well-equipped kitchen
for those who want to self-
cater and there is usually a local
market or food shop nearby.
Private rooms and apartments
are frequently rented out
privately by their owners via
international booking sites like
Booking or Airbnb. They can
also be booked through the
various tourist agencies which
can be found in all the tourist
resorts. A tourist tax and commis-
Hotel Lone in Rovinj, Istria, a five-star option outside the major cities (see p227) sion are charged and in summer
landlords may require stays of a
Hotel Grading hotel restaurant food tends minimum of four nights.
Croatia has adopted the often to be based on rather Landladies and landlords
standard star system for standardized “international” often congregate at ferry
categorizing hotels common cooking, and may be lacking terminals and bus stations to
in other European countries, in local character. offer rooms to arriving tourists.
which ranges from one star, While this is a reasonably safe
awarded to the simplest sort way to secure a room, it is
of accommodation, to five Private Rooms essential to check the location
stars for a luxury hotel. and Apartments and price before committing
The five-star category A good-value alternative to yourself in any way.
indicates hotels offering a staying in a hotel while in Croatia Otherwise you can seek out
high standard and a wide is to look for accommodation in accommodation yourself in the
range of services and facilities, privately rented rooms (privatne areas you would like to stay in
usually including spa and sobe) or apartments (apartmani). by looking out for signs reading
fitness facilities, a swimming Private rooms are usually sobe (Croatian for ‘rooms’),
pool and at least one gourmet doubles (single travellers may be Zimmer in German or camere
restaurant. There are not expected to pay the full double in Italian, hanging outside the
very many five-star hotels in price), and come in all shapes door. It is a good idea to begin
Croatia, and most of them are and sizes – the most expensive looking fairly early in the day.
in Dubrovnik and Zagreb. ones will have en-suite If you find somewhere you like,
Four-star hotels offer facilities bathrooms, but many will not. you can ask to be shown the
and services similar to those in Apartments come in all sizes room and, if you are happy
the five-star category, but the too, from 2-person studios to with what you see, you can
furnishings are less luxurious 6-person family flats, and arrange the terms and the
and more standardized and
there are fewer facilities.
Most of the hotels in Croatia
fall within the three-star
category, which indicates
hotels offering a good standard
of comfort. Two-star hotels are
generally cheaper and more
spartan in their furnishings
and offer fewer services.
It is common practice in
resort areas for hotels to offer
half-board (polupansion), with
the price including bed and
breakfast as well as another
meal (usually an evening meal).
Prices for half-board can be
very reasonable; often not
much more than you would
pay for just the room. However, Karmen’s self-contained apartments within a historic residence, Dubrovnik (see p228)
224 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Bookings
The prevalence of Internet
booking sites means that it
is nowadays fairly easy to
organize hotel reservations
in Croatia yourself. However
places fill up quickly from June
through to September, so you
are advised to book well in
advance in order to be sure
of getting the accommodation
you want.
The Croatian National
Tourist Board (see p267)
can supply information on
The iconic Esplanade Zagreb Hotel (see p231) accommodation ahead of your
trip. Once you are in Croatia,
price of your stay. It may even All camp sites are open in the local tourist offices (there is one
be possible to negotiate the summer months of June, July, in every town) will either help
price, especially out of season. August and until the middle of you find a room or direct you to
Private rooms rarely come with September. However, it is best an accommodation agency that
breakfast, although you can to check with the campground can sort out your needs.
always ask if it is available – an directly if you are planning on
increasing number of renters going during May or late
are beginning to provide it. September, as the opening peri- Disabled Travellers
ods can vary from year to year. Care for the disabled in Croatia
Some of the loveliest camp is good, for the grim reason
B&Bs and Pensions sites, situated as they are in that the numbers of disabled
The concept of the bed-and- hidden-away spots, are those people has risen here as a result
breakfast is relatively new in marked “FKK” (see p266), which of the 1991–95 war. However,
Croatia but there are an are for naturists only. despite renewed sympathy and
increasing number of them Camping outside designated consideration, it is taking time
in Zagreb, on the coast, and in areas is prohibited in Croatia, to improve disabled access to
national park areas where rural so do not be tempted to stop buildings such as hotels and
tourism is on the increase. overnight in the woods or restaurants. Many hotels can
Usually these offer simply forests, on the beaches or in be unsuitable for persons with
furnished rooms in family any areas not specifically restricted mobility.
houses, although some B&Bs reserved for campers. As a general rule, hotels
are swish affairs, almost on the of four stars or above will
level of boutique hotels. have facilities for the disabled;
Pensions (pansion) are small Hostels cheaper places will probably
family-run hotels that offer There are a growing number of not. For further information,
breakfast, and possibly half- backpacker hostels in Croatia, contact Hrvatski Savez
or full board as well. most of which offer cheap, Udruga Tjelesnih Invalida,
simple dorm accommodation the Association of Disabled
in fun, informal surroundings. Organizations of Croatia
Camp Sites A bed in a hostels can be booked (see p267) or RADAR in the UK.
There are plenty of camp sites via the hostel’s own website or
in Croatia, ranging from small, on specialist websites such as
family-run sites with a few Hostelworld. Many hostels Lighthouses
pitches under the olive trees to offer double rooms, triples and A delightful and unusual
large camps with facilities such quads as well as dorms, and accommodation option in
as sports grounds, restaurants these are increasingly popular Croatia is a stay in one of
and shops. Many Croatian camp with couples and families who the lighthouses which stand
sites are located in woods by enjoy the social aspects of on isolated points along the
the sea, so you can keep cool backpacker culture but who coast. Lighthouses, which
under shady trees on summer want their own room. Some usually contain one or two
days. While there is a wide choice hostels have invested a lot of apartments, are often situated
of sites on the Adriatic coast money in contemporary design on uninhabited islets, and
and islands, there are far fewer and comforts, and are similar in will suit those who require
camp sites inland. Kamping style to small boutique hotels. solitude, unspoilt nature
Udruženje Hrvatske (the Breakfast is available at some, and unimpeded sea views.
Croatian Camping Union) has but not all, Croatian hostels – Several agencies deal with
useful directories on its website. check when booking. lighthouse accommodation;
W H E R E TO S TAY 225
Hostelworld
∑ hostelworld.com
Camping Websites
Kamping Udruženje
Hrvatske (Croatian
Camping Union)
∑ camping.hr
Lighthouses
Atlas
∑ atlas.hr
Lighthouses of Croatia
∑ lighthouses-croatia.com
Modern and minimalist, but set in a Roman palace: the Vestibul Palace, Split (see p230)
226 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay
seen at this delightful hotel on Price Guide
Istria and the the harbourfront. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
Kvarner Area Iinclusive of service charges and taxes.
BUZET: Hotel Vela Vrata DK Choice up to 800 kuna
Boutique Road Map B2 LOŠINJ: 800–1300 kuna
over 1300 kuna
Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7 Vitality Hotel Punta
Tel (052) 494 750 Spa Road Map B3
∑ velavrata.net Šestavine 17, Veli Lošinj LOVRAN: Bristol
This lovely hotel at the gates of Tel (051) 662 000 Historic Road Map B2
Buzet’s hilltop Old Town has ∑ losinj-hotels.com Šetalište maršala Tita 27
snug rooms and modern fittings. Built on rocks overlooking the Tel (051) 710 444
Closed Jan & Feb. sea, and backed by fragrant ∑ remisens.com
pines, this is a well-equipped Bristol is attractive late 19th-
BUZET: Kotli and soothing resort hotel. century wedding-cake of a
Historic Road Map B2 The fishing harbour of Veli building on the promenade
Kotli Lošinj lies 5 minutes’ walk in and has high-ceilinged rooms.
Tel (098) 228 432 one direction; the resort town
∑ istra-kotli.com of Mali Lošinj is 20 minutes MOTOVUN: Hotel Kaštel
This street of stone houses in the away in the other. Punta’s other Boutique Road Map A2
village of Kotli, a protected cultural main attribute is the on-site Trg Andrea Antico 7
heritage complex 13 km (8 miles) spa centre, which offers a pool, Tel (052) 681 607
from Buzet, have been converted massage facilities and a variety ∑ hotel-kastel-motovun.hr
into atmospheric family-sized of beauty treatments and Offering a warren of cosy rooms,
apartments with good facilities. exercise programmes. this restored 17th-century town
house is set in the heart of a
CRES: Kimen beautiful hill-town.
Resort Road Map B3 LOŠINJ:
Melin 1/16 Wellness Hotel Aurora OPATIJA:
Tel (051) 573 305 Resort Road Map B3 Palace-Bellevue
∑ hotel-kimen.com Sunčana uvala 4, Mali Lošinj Historic Road Map B2
A large but welcoming hotel, Tel (051) 667 200 Maršala Tita 144
Kimen has lots of facilities and live ∑ losinj-hotels.com Tel (051) 710 444
music nightly. Closed Nov–Mar. This large, well-organized beach- ∑ remisens.com
front hotel has a range of This hotel’s two impressive
CRIKVENICA: Hotel Kaštel facilities and beauty treatments. 19th-century buildings stand
Resort Road Map B2 next to the main beach. The
Frankopanska 22 LOŠINJ: Bellevue rooms are simple but the social
Tel (051) 241 044 Luxury Road Map B3 areas – all marble columns and
∑ jadran-crikvenica.hr Čikat 9, Mali Lošinj chandeliers – are wonderful.
Stay in simple rooms at this former Tel (051) 231 268
14th-century monastery, right by ∑ losinj-hotels.com OPATIJA: Galeb
the river and close to the beach. Offering excellent standards of Historic Road Map B2
service , Bellevue is a superbly Maršala Tita 160
KRK: Valamar Koralj equipped five-star hotel. Located Tel (051) 271 177
Resort Road Map B3 within close proximity to the ∑ hotel-galeb.hr
V. Tomašića bb beaches of Čikat Bay. A lovely little hotel in the centre
Tel (052) 465 120 of town, Galeb houses clean,
∑ valamar.com/hr/hoteli-krk good-sized rooms with sea views.
Comfortable rooms and plenty of Closed Nov–Apr.
on-site facilities are offered at this
large hotel, close to a beautiful bay. OPATIJA: Villa Ariston
Boutique Road Map B2
KRK: Marina Maršala Tita 179
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 271 379
Obala hrvatske mornarice 8 ∑ villa-ariston.hr
Tel (051) 221 128 Grand in architecture and cosy in
∑ hotelmarina.hr atmosphere, this seaside villa is a
Set on the pretty harbourfront, relaxing upscale choice.
this charming, well-run hotel has
a café-restaurant terrace that’s OPATIJA:
perfect for people-watching. Hotel Milenij
Luxury Road Map B2
LOŠINJ: Apoksiomen Maršala Tita 109
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 278 007
Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1 ∑ milenijhoteli.com
Tel (051) 520 820 Set in impressive sea-front
∑ apoksiomen.com buildings, this hotel has a lovely
An understated sense of style Large and modern, with plenty of facilities: ground-floor café and offers
and attention to detail can be Wellness Hotel Aurora, Lošinj spa facilities.
W H E R E TO S TAY 227
RIJEKA: Neboder
Historic Road Map B3
J.J. Strossmayera 1
Tel (051) 373 538
∑ jadran-hoteli.hr
Built in the 1930s, this slender
grey slab is a modernist classic.
Rooms are masterpieces of
minimalist design.
ROVINJ: Monte Mulini is hard to beat for charm, setting DUBROVNIK:
Luxury Road Map A3 and value. Closed Nov–Mar. The Pucić Palace
A. Smareglia 3 Luxury Road Map F6
Tel (052) 800 250 DUBROVNIK: Adriatic Od Puča 1
∑ montemulinihotel.com Resort Road Map F6 Tel (020) 326 222
This smart, well-appointed and Masarykov put 9 ∑ thepucicpalace.com
perfectly situated five-star over- Tel (020) 433 609 Set in a 17th-century palace
looks the beaches of Lone Bay. A good-value hotel, Adriatic is overlooking the Old Town’s
situated just above Lapad Bay, market, this is Adriatic luxury
UMAG: with its pebble beach, 4 km and atmosphere at its best.
Kempinski Hotel Adriatic (2 miles) from the Old Town.
Luxury Road Map A2 DUBROVNIK: Stari Grad
Alberi 300A, Savudrija DUBROVNIK: Karmen Boutique Road Map F6
Tel (052) 707 000 B&B Road Map F6 Od Sigurate 4
∑ kempinski.com Bandureva 1 Tel (020) 322 244
Right beside the Slovene border, Tel (020) 323 433 ∑ hotelstarigrad.com
this chic hotel comes with ∑ karmendu.com This intimate (8-room) designer
superb facilities, and there is Housed in one of the Old Town’s hotel is ideally situated in the Old
an 18-hole golf course nearby. most atmospheric corners, Town; stunning views from its
Karmen has comfortable rooftop restaurant. Closed mid-
VRSAR: Petalon apartments that are attractively Nov–Feb.
Resort Road Map A3 furnished with antiques.
Petalon 5 DUGI OTOK: Hotel Lavanda
Tel (052) 800 250 Resort Road Map C4
∑ maistra.com/petalon_vrsar DK Choice Božava bb
A self-contained hotel situated on DUBROVNIK: Fresh* Sheets Tel (023) 291 291
a peninsula with pebble beaches, Kathedral Dubrovnik ∑ hoteli-bozava.hr
Petalon has an impressive range B&B Road Map F6 This complex overlooking the sea,
of sport and recreational facilities. Bunićeva poljana 6 has excellent sports facilities and
Tel (091) 896 7509 lots of surrounding greenery.
∑ freshsheetsbedandbreakfast.
com HVAR: Adriatiq Resort Fontana
Dalmatia Occupying a unique position Resort Road Map D5
behind the cathedral, in a Vitarnja bb, Jelsa
BRAČ: historic church-owned building, Tel (021) 761 810
Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa Fresh* Sheets offers a mixture of ∑ resortfontana-adriatiq.com
Resort Road Map D5 double rooms, family suites and On a hillside, this complex is
Put Zlatnog rata 46, Bol apartments, equipped with minutes away from pebbly
Tel (021) 306 200 modern fittings and allowing beaches and the town of Jelsa.
∑ hotelelaphusabrac.com plenty of natural light. Breakfast
Facilities here include sporting can be enjoyed in the square HVAR: Palace
activities and beauty treatments. below. The experience of Historic Road Map D5
Set in a pine wood, not far from waking up in the middle of Trg svetog Stjepana 5
the beaches and the town. Dubrovnik before the tour groups Tel (021) 741 966
have arrived is wonderful. ∑ suncanihvar.com
BRAČ: Villa Adriatica The oldest hotel in Hvar, Palace has
Boutique Road Map D5 modernized rooms set behind
Put Vele Luke 31, Supetar DUBROVNIK: Excelsior the town’s colonnaded loggia.
Tel (021) 755 010 Luxury Road Map F6
∑ villaadriatica.com Frana Supila 12 HVAR: Amfora
A chic family-run alternative to Tel (020) 300 300 Resort Road Map D5
the big resort hotels, Adriatica has ∑ www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com Jurja Dubokovića 5
a pool and hot tub. Located in a This top-of-the-market historic Tel (021) 750 300
quiet neighbourhood minutes hotel is perched on a cliff near ∑ suncanihvar.com
from the seafront. Closed Oct–Apr. Old Town, with a private beach A large resort hotel along the bay
and magnificent views. from Hvar town, Amfora boasts
BRAČ: Bluesun Hotel Borak
Resort Road Map D5
Put Zlatnog rata 42, Bol
Tel (021) 306 202
∑ brachotelborak.com
One of the better, large resort
hotels on Brač, it is set among
cypresses near Bol’s famous
beaches and windsurfing bases.
PRIMOŠTEN:
Adriatiq Hotel Zora
Resort Road Map D5
Elegantly furnished room, Excelsior Hotel, Dubrovnik Raduča 11
Tel (022) 570 048
chic rooms, a pebble beach and MAKARSKA: Biokovo ∑ hotelzora-adriatiq.com
all modern conveniences. Historic Road Map E5 Nestled in a thick blanket of
Obala kralja Tomislava 14 pines and cypresses, this resort-
HVAR: Hotel Podstine Tel (021) 615 244 style complex offers plenty of
Boutique Road Map D5 ∑ holidaymakarska.com amenities and is good for families.
Put Podstina 11 Some rooms at this intimate
Tel (021) 740 400 hotel in the heart of Makarska ŠIBENIK: Solaris Lifestyle
∑ podstine.com overlook the lively harbourfront. Hotel Jure
Perched above the sea some 1 km Resort Road Map D5
(half a mile) round the bay from MAKARSKA: Hotel Meteor Solaris
the town, this contemporary hotel Resort Road Map E5 Tel (022) 361 001
has a charming boutique feel. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 19 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
Tel (021) 564 200 This beachside hotel in the
KORČULA: Bon Repos ∑ hoteli-makarska.hr Solaris resort is set in park-like
Resort Road Map E6 This ziggurat-like classic of grounds. It has a spa and an
Dubrovačka cesta 19 Adriatic modernism is right on outdoor swimming-pool complex.
Tel (020) 726 880 the seafront promenade, with a
∑ korcula-hotels.com wealth of on-site faciities. ŠIBENIK: Solaris Beach
This large hotel is located in Hotel Jakov
idyllic surroundings, some METKOVIĆ: Villa Neretva Resort Road Map D5
distance from the Old Town but B&B Road Map E6 Solaris
on the sea. The rooms are simple Splitska 14, Krvavac Tel (022) 361 001
and have been refurbished. Tel (020) 672 200 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
∑ hotel-villa-neretva.com This family-oriented hotel in the
KORČULA: Set among the mandarin Solaris complex, 6 km (3 miles)
Korčula De La Ville orchards of the Neretva delta, this from town, offers ample facilities
Historic Road Map E6 family-run pension offers cosy and beach access.
Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5 rooms above a famous restaurant.
Tel (020) 726 900 ŠOLTA: Martinis Marchi
∑ korcula-hotels.com MLJET: Hotel Odisej Luxury Road Map D5
This elegant pre-World War I Resort Road Map E6 Put svetog Nikole 51, Maslinica
hotel on the harbourfront has Pomena bb Tel (021) 572 768
comfortable rooms. The ground- Tel 020 300 300 ∑ martinis-marchi.com
floor café has one of the best ∑ adriaticluxuryhotels.com Enjoy pampered luxury in this
terraces on the Adriatic. Ideal for exploring the lakes and restored castle, with spacious
forests of Mljet National Park, this suites grouped that are around
modern hotel has a beach and a courtyard swimming pool.
DK Choice good sports facilities too.
KORČULA:
Lešić-Dimitri Palace OREBIĆ: Aminess Grand DK Choice
Boutique Road Map E6 Azur Hotel SPLIT: Goli&Bosi
Don Pavla Poše 1–6 Resort Road Map E6 Hostel Road Map D5
Tel (021) 715 560 Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 107 Morpurgova poljana 2
∑ lesic-dimitri.com Tel (052) 858 600 Tel (021) 510 999
A handful of luxury apartments, ∑ aminess.com ∑ gollybossy.com
occup this row of carefully Set on a woodland beach, this is A converted department store is
restored houses, in one of a large hotel with a wide range of home to this design hostel, char-
central Korčula’s atmospheric, activities and sporting facilities. acterized by its yellow, white and
stepped alleyways. Each black colour scheme. Dorm beds
apartment has a fully equipped OREBIĆ: Hotel Bellevue take the form of semi-private
kitchen and contemporary Resort Road Map E6 cubicles; en-suite doubles and
bathroom facilities. Breakfast is Obala pomoraca 36 top-floor family rooms are also
served on the seafront a short Tel (020) 713 193 on offer. The hostel’s café-
distance away. The friendly staff ∑ orebic-hotels.hr restaurant spreads out into the
attend to every detail. A stone’s throw from a broad neighbouring piazza in summer.
pebble beach, Bellevue offers
For more information on types of hotels see pp222–5
230 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DK Choice
ZADAR: Iadera
Spa Road Map C4
Punta Skala, Petrčane
Tel (023) 555 601
∑ falkensteiner.com
Located 10 km (6 miles) north of
Zadar just outside the unspoiled
seaside village of Petrčane, this
luxury spa hotel offers the full
range of state-of-the-art facilities,
with indoor pools, numerous
therapeutic programmes and
plenty of beauty treatments. The
A modern temple to wellbeing: Hotel Iadera, on the coast just outside Zadar hotel grounds include a pine
forest and grassy lawns. A pebbly
SPLIT: Hotel Peristil VIS: Dionis beach is a short walk away.
Boutique Road Map D5 B&B Road Map D6
Poljana kraljice Jelene 5 Matije Gubca 1
Tel (021) 329 070 Tel (021) 711 963
∑ hotelperistil.com ∑ dionis.hr
Peristil has a wonderful location This family-run B&B, above a Zagreb
in the heart of Split’s Diocletian’s pizzeria, has snug rooms, many of
Palace. Some rooms have them with sloping attic ceilings. ZAGREB: Hostel Shappy
ancient stonework. Hostel Road Map D2
VIS: Issa Varšavska 8
SPLIT: Radisson Blu Resort Resort Road Map D6 Tel (01) 483 04 83
Split Šetalište Apolonija Zanelle 5 ∑ hostel-shappy.com
Resort Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 164 In the centre of town, Shappy
Put Trstenika 19 ∑ hotelsvis.com is a smart and soothing hostel
Tel (021) 303 030 Overlooking pebbly beaches on with dorms, double rooms
∑ radissonblu.com/resort-split the fringes of Vis town, the Issa and quads.
This resort is 3 km (2 miles) east has a wealth of sporting facilities.
of the centre and has a pebble ZAGREB: Studio Kairos
beach and well-appointed rooms. VIS: Hotel San Giorgio B&B Road Map D2
Boutique Road Map D6 Vlaška 92
SPLIT: Vestibul Palace Petra Hektorovića 2 Tel (01) 464 06 80
Boutique Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 362 ∑ studio-kairos.com
Iza Vestibula 4 ∑ hotelsangiorgiovis.com A cosy B&B with small, artistically
Tel (021) 329 329 An old stone house in a narrow furnished rooms, each themed
∑ vestibulpalace.com alley, San Giorgio features cosy around Zagreb’s history.
This spectacular hotel combines modern rooms and a walled
modern design with Roman stone- orchard garden. Closed Nov–Mar. ZAGREB: Hotel Palace
work, in Diocletian’s former palace. Historic Road Map D2
VIS: Hotel Tamaris Trg J.J. Strossmayera 10
STON: Hotel Ostrea Historic Road Map D6 Tel (01) 489 96 00
B&B Road Map E6 Obala sv. Jurja 20 ∑ palace.hr
Mali Ston Tel (021) 711 164 This elegant pre-World War I
Tel (020) 754 555 ∑ hotelsvis.com townhouse features retro furnish-
∑ ostrea.hr This 19th-century villa is set right ings and Art Deco design touches.
Afamily-run hotel on the harbour, on the harbour. High-ceilinged
Ostrea has large rooms, great rooms and a lively first-floor café. ZAGREB: Sheraton Zagreb
service and a fabulous restaurant. Luxury Road Map D2
ZADAR: Boutique Hostel Kneza Borne 2
TROGIR: Hotel Concordia Forum Tel (01) 455 35 35
B&B Road Map D5 Hostel Road Map C4 ∑ hotel-sheratonzagreb.com
Obala bana Berislavića 22 Široka 20 A 10 minutes’ walk from the
Tel (021) 885 400 Tel (023) 250 705 main square, this international
∑ concordia-hotel.net ∑ hostelforumzadar.com chain hotel has the standards
This impressive 18th-century Offering designer interiors and of comfort and service you
town house offers snug rooms several private double rooms, this would expect.
and attentive service. is one of the new super-hostels.
ZAGREB: The Westin
TROGIR: Villa Sikaa ZADAR: Club Funimation Zagreb
B&B Road Map D5 Borik Luxury Road Map D2
Obala kralja Zvonimira 13 Resort Road Map C4 Izidora Kršnjavog 1
Tel (021) 881 223 Majstora Radovana 7 Tel (01) 489 20 00
∑ vila-sikaa-r.com Tel (023) 555 600 ∑ westinzagreb.com
Set on the waterfront opposite ∑ falkensteiner.com This plush, well-equipped five-
the Old Town, this small hotel This family-oriented hotel just west star, in a superb location, towers
has spacious rooms and friendly, of the town has sports facilities, above an open plaza in the
helpful staff. crèches and a pebble beach. Lower Town.
Key to Price Guide see p226
W H E R E TO S TAY 231
Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed in this
guidebook have been chosen
based on a wide range of
criteria. All are representative of
The clue is in the name at 360° in Dubrovnik, with its wraparound views (see p241) their setting, be that city streets,
the Dalmatian islands or the
Pizzerias usually have a range of However, restaurants, pizzerias inland plains of eastern Croatia.
pasta dishes and salads too. The and cafés serving Italianstyle Each stands out and has earned
prices are always reasonable and food will provide options such a noteworthy reputation.
are on average 30–40 per cent as pizzas with vegetable Listings cover a vast variety of
lower than similar meals in toppings and pasta dishes. eateries, from simple, familyrun
many other parts of Europe. Otherwise several side orders of taverns, cafés and pastry shops
vegetables are usually an option to stylish bistros and formal
and omelettes (omlet) may be whitetablecloth restaurants.
Picnics and Self-Catering available in some places. The Particular attention is devoted
Picnic food can easily be bought choice increases in autumn with to regional specialities (see
from food shops, supermarkets the fresh mushroom season, pp234–5), from the fresh fish
or from one of the typical open especially in the Istria region. and seafood of the Adriatic to
air markets where you can find a the spicy paprikaflavoured fare
great variety of salami, cheeses, of Slavonia. Also featured is
bread and olives, as well as fresh Paying BosnianHerzegovinian cuisine,
fruit and drinks. You will find that most Croatian which is heavily influenced by
Retail food prices are very restaurants now accept credit Turkish and Oriental fare.
reasonable and shopkeepers cards, although it is still possible The DK Choice label means
usually try to be helpful. Ready to come across a few where the the restaurant is outstanding
made sandwiches are becoming bill has to be paid in cash. and heartily recommended.
more popular in Croatia, though However, credit cards are often It may serve standout dishes
some places still make them to not accepted in cafés or in rural with local specialities, offer
order. You will also find simple establishments, so make sure that excellent value, be located in
readymade snacks such as you carry enough cash with you. beautiful surrounds or a historic
burek. This is a type of savoury building, or have a particularly
pastry, filled with meat (meso), romantic or charming
cheese (sir), spinach (špinat) or Opening Hours atmosphere. Whatever the
potato (krumpir) and baked in Places serving food and drinks reason, it is an indication that
an oven. Bakeries selling burek have very flexible opening hours, you should have an especially
and other pastries can be found and it is possible to eat at more memorable meal.
on every Croatian high street.
Groups staying in selfcatering
apartments should also have no
problem stocking up. Many hotel
complexes with apartments
also have minisupermarkets.
Vegetarian Food
More and more restaurants
now offer vegetarian dishes and
there are a few that specialize in
vegetarian food. Be aware that
some dishes that appear meat
free, like manistra (vegetable
soup), may contain meat stock. Deliciously fresh fish and seafood is served at Proto, Dubrovnik
234 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Škampi na buzaru Scampi is Pašticada A beef joint and Štrukli This northern Croatian
gently simmered in wine, seasonal vegetables are slowly dish of parcels of curd cheese,
tomatoes, garlic and herbs; pot-roasted in wine – prunes boiled and then baked, can be
finished with breadcrumbs. are also sometimes used. either sweet or savoury.
236 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Spirits
A wide variety of spirits
is available in Croatia,
demonstrating the
nation’s fondness for
strong alcoholic drinks,
in particular fruit-based
eaux-de-vie. One of the
most popular spirits is a
plum brandy originating
in Slavonia called
Šljivovica. It is found all Pelinkovac Zrinski
over the country. Loza is liqueur brandy
Traditional utensils for the preparation of strong Turkish coffee a grape-based eau-de-
vie with a high alcohol content, and
Coffee and Tea Travarica is a herb-based spirit. Vinjak
Coffee (kava) is drunk throughout Croatia. All over is a brandy, Pelinkovac is a herb
the country it is served very strong and black, in liqueur, and Maraskino, a liqueur
little cups, like an espresso coffee. If it is too strong from Zadar, is flavoured with
you can add a little milk or order a cappuccino maraschino cherries.
(freshly ground coffee with frothy hot milk). Many spirits are drunk as aperitifs.
Strong Turkish coffee is also available in some A spirit called Bermet is produced in
places. Herbal teas (čaj) are sold everywhere. Samobor, near Zagreb, and is made
Indian teas can also be found, usually served according to an ancient, well-
with lemon, but you can ask for milk. guarded recipe. It is drunk as an
aperitif, served with ice and a Šljivovica
slice of lemon. eau-de-vie
Beer
Another very popular drink sold in cafés and pubs
is beer (pivo), which is always served very cold.
Most bottled beers are of the
lager type, but some darker
beers can be found. The most
well-known brands of lager
beer are Ožujsko, made in
Zagreb, and Karlovačko
(Karlovac). Another
common brand is Pan. Well-
known international beers
such as Stella Artois are also
widely available (some
brewed under licence in
Karlovačko Ožujsko Croatia), but tend to be Some bottles of eau-de-vie with fruit, made at home all over
beer beer more expensive. the country
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 237
Where to Drink
There are various types of establishments which
serve drinks and it is useful to know a few of the
basic categories. A kavana or kafić is equivalent
to a café, and serves both alcoholic and non-
alcoholic drinks, while a pivnica serves mainly
beer. Irish pubs can also be found, selling
Guinness and other Irish beers. Wine is generally
Poolside dining area and bar at the promenade in Hvar drunk in a konoba in coastal towns. In the larger
towns you can have a snack with your drink in one
Drinking Customs in Croatia of the bife, the Croatian equivalent of a snack bar.
Pubs, bars and cafés are not only places to However, there are not really rigid distinctions
stop at various times of the day for refreshment, between the types of drinks served in one or
but also places to meet friends and socialize. other of these places. Cafés open early and close
For visitors this can also be a good way of meeting late – usually around 11pm or later in the summer.
and getting to know local people. Drinks of various kinds (though rarely alcoholic)
One tradition found in Croatia is that of are also served in pastry shops – slastičarnica. The
mixing wine with other drinks such as mineral close links that Croatia’s gastronomic tradition has
water or even cola. A bevanda is red or white with Austria, and in particular with Vienna, has
wine with plain water, while gemišt is white wine influenced the production of delicious cakes and
mixed with sparkling mineral water. One of the pastries as well as excellent sladoled (ice cream).
most popular summer drinks is red wine and Pastry shops close earlier than cafés in general.
fizzy cola, a drink called bambus.
Croatians like a drink or two, as is demonstrated
by the custom in the Slavonian region of wine
drinking with friends. This traditional ritual
should only be undertaken by people with a
very strong head for alcohol. It begins with the
first phase, which is before any wine is consumed,
known as the Dočekuša. This is then followed
by the Razgovoruša, during which you chat
while sipping at least seven glasses of wine.
The final phase is called the Putnička, reserved
for the leave-taking, when yet more glasses are
emptied before people say their final farewells.
Snack bar with outdoor tables in Fažana, a coastal resort
238 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
OPATIJA: Istranka
Traditional Road Map B2
Bože Milanovića 2
Tel (051) 271 835
This folksy restaurant with
checked tablecloths is just uphill
from the main street. It serves
filling soups, inexpensive seafood Waterside dining with expansive views, Bevanda restaurant, Opatija
and tasty local sausages.
POREČ: Nono PULA: Vodnjanka
OPATIJA: Tramerka Pizzeria Road Map A2 Traditional Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Zagrebačka 4 D. Vitezića 4
Dr A. Mohorovičića 15 Tel (052) 453 088 Tel (052) 210 655 Closed Sun
Tel (051) 701 707 Nono serves some of the best A little way outside the centre
Occupying a narrow alley just and certainly the biggest pizzas of town but well worth the trip,
above Volosko harbour, Tramerka in Istria, alongside good steaks, the homely Vodnjanka serves
combines the cosy virtues of a grilled squid and other Adriatic home-made pasta, marinated
traditional tavern with the finest staples. It’s small and often full, fish dishes and roast meats, all
seafood, with the accent on but worth the wait. at very reasonable prices.
what’s in season and fresh.
POREČ: Konoba Ulixes PULA: Batelina
OPATIJA: Bevanda Traditional Road Map A2 Seafood Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Decumanus 2 Čimulje 25
Zert 8 Tel (052) 451 132 Closed Nov–Apr Tel (052) 573 767
Tel (051) 493 888 Rustic and maritime objects Three kilometres (2 miles) south
A seafood restaurant offering high- decorate the interior of this of Pula, this family-run restaurant
quality cuisine and impeccable classy little restaurant, with is legendary for its superb,
standards of service, Bevanda reasonably priced seafood, pasta frequently creative cooking,
occupies a chic seafront pavilion and truffle dishes dominating always involving freshly caught
with a glass-enclosed terrace. the menu. fish and shellfish. Reservations
are essential.
OPATIJA: Le Mandrać POREČ: Sveti Nikola
Fine Dining Road Map B2 Seafood Road Map A2 PULA: Milan
Obala Frana Supila 10 Obala maršala Tita 23 Seafood Road Map A3
Tel (051) 701 357 Tel (052) 423 018 Stoja 4
A sleek glass pavilion right on Experience refined dining right Tel (052) 300 200
Volosko harbour, Le Mandrać is on Poreč’s harbour-front, with An elegant location in which to
famous for matching Adriatic delicately prepared fish dishes enjoy the best local seafood,
staples with modern creative and superb risottos backed up Milan offers fresh fish either
kitchencraft. Look out for set by a well-chosen selection of grilled or baked, plus a dessert
lunches and multi-course Croatian wines. trolley brimming with temptation.
tasting menus.
PULA: Amfiteatar PULA: Velanera
Mediterranean Road Map A3 Mediterranean Road Map A3
DK Choice Amfiteatarska 6 Franje Mošnja 3b, Šišan
OPATIJA: Plavi podrum Tel (052) 375 600 Tel (052) 300 621
Seafood Road Map B2 Set in the chic modern interior Located in Šišan, 7 km (4 miles)
Obala Frana Supila 12 of the Amfiteatar hotel, this from central Pula, this chic
Tel (051) 701 223 restaurant takes the best of hotel restaurant serves up
A refined restaurant on Volosko’s Mediterranean cuisine and Mediterranean and international
picturesque fishing harbour, presents it in both a creative cuisine with a splash of local
Plavi podrum has a Croatia- and affordable way. Istrian flavour.
wide reputation for its creative
fish dishes. It’s the perfect place PULA: Jupiter RAB: Konoba Riva
to sample Kvarner scampi, Pizzeria Road Map A3 Traditional Road Map B3
prepared here in a variety Castropola 42 Ulica biskupa Draga 3
of ways. The excellent cellar Tel (052) 214 333 Tel (051) 725 887
contains local and international A welcoming pizzeria in the Appealingly decked out in fishing
wines by the bottle or the glass; middle of town, with an paraphernalia, wooden beams
the owner is also a highly affordable range of big thin-crust and exposed stone, Riva is a great
regarded sommelier. pies, Jupiter also serves soups, place to enjoy quality Adriatic
salads and grilled-meat snacks. seafood at a reasonable price.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
240 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
OREBIĆ: Saints Hills Vinaria ŠIBENIK: Tinel and remains totally unspoiled
Regional Road Map E6 Traditional Road Map D5 by its growing popularity with
Zagruda Trg pučkih kapetana 1 in-the-know tourists.
Tel (020) 742 113 Tel (098) 870 080
Set amidst vineyards in an old Situated in a small square in the SPLIT: Galija
stone house, this winery offers Old Town, this restaurant covers Pizzeria Road Map D5
innovative variants of traditional two floors and serves a range of Kamila Tončića 12
Dalmatian fare. The vegetables Dalmatian classics – seafood, Tel (021) 347 932
and spices used come from the grilled meats and stews. For years Galija has been a
garden outside. Book in advance. favourite among locals, offering
ŠIBENIK: Uzorita inexpensive thin-crust pizzas in
PAG: Konoba Bodulo Regional Road Map D5 a cosy street-corner location a
Traditional Road Map C4 Bana Josipa Jelačića 58 short walk from Diocletian’s Palace.
Vangrada 19 Tel (022) 213 660
Tel (091) 564 8212 Closed Oct–Mar A sleek interior and modern patio SPLIT: Kod Joze
Fresh and simple food is served give a contemporary feel to this Traditional Road Map D5
in the welcome shade of a grape- traditional restaurant, specializing Sredmanuška 4
vine. The menu offers all kinds of in locally farmed mussels, fresh Tel (021) 347 397
seafood, pasta and meat dishes, seafood and roast meats. The traditional decor featuring
as well as desserts; the soupy fish bare stone walls and fishing
stew (brodet) is delicious. ŠIBENIK: Pelegrini nets provides the ideal
Mediterranean Road Map D5 background for a reliable menu
PAG: Boškinac Jurja Dalmatinca 1 of good, inexpensive seafood.
Traditonal Road Map C4 Tel (022) 213 701 Closed Mon;
Škopaljska ulica 220 Jan & Feb SPLIT: Marjan
Tel (053) 663 500 Closed mid-Nov– In a 700-year-old villa alongside Seafood Road Map D5
mid-Mar the cathedral, Pelegrini gives Senjska 1
Local island produce, including a modern twist and exquisite, Tel (098) 934 68 48
Pag’s excellent lamb, fresh fish contemporary presentation to A tiny, family-run tavern serving
and famous cheese, are served local produce and specialities, fresh fish and traditional stews,
with style at this boutique hotel’s including an extensive list Marjan is popular with locals and
restaurant in its pretty setting. of the best Croatian wines. tourists – be prepared to wait for
Attentive staff serve unmissable a table in summer.
fare in a gorgeous setting.
SPLIT: UpCafé
SPLIT: Bobis Vegetarian Road Map D5
Café Road Map D5 Domovinskog rata 29a
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog A short walk away from the
preporoda 20 Old Town, this two-storey café
Bobis is something of a Split is well worth seeking out for its
institution, serving coffee, cakes wide range of vegan dishes and
and pastries to generations of tasty desserts.
locals. It’s a good place to try local
specialities like krostata (fruit pie). SPLIT: Varoš
Traditional Road Map D5
SPLIT: Bufet Fife Ban Mladenova 7
Traditional Road Map D5 Tel (021) 396 138
Trumbićeva obala 11 A traditional restaurant popular
Tel (021) 345 223 with lunching locals, Varoš has an
Very much a legend of the local extensive menu of traditional
culinary scene, Fife offers large, Dalmatian seafood and grilled
Tables under the ancient stone arcades at inexpensive portions of meat dishes, washed down with
Giaxa, old Hvar town Dalmatian seafood and stews, robust house wine.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
244 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SPLIT: Bajamonti
Mediterranean Road Map D5
Trg republike 1
Tel (021) 341 033
In this elegant eatery, you can
get coffee and cakes, as well as
a juicy steak or a lobster straight
from their tank. There is outdoor
seating on the Venetian-style
Prokurative square.
SPLIT: Noštromo
Seafood Road Map D5
Kraj sv. Marije 10
Tel (091) 405 6666
Right next to the fish market,
Nostromo is a reliable place to
find fresh seafood, cooked with
flair and imagination. Formal Dining area on a canopied stone jetty at Foša in Zadar
restaurant upstairs; casual bar
on the ground floor. Dalmatian ingredients, backed VIS: Jastožera
up with an impresssive wine Regional Road Map D6
SPLIT: Stellon list – and a chance to sample Gundulićeva 6, Komiža
Regional Road Map D5 boutique Dalmatian olive oils. Tel (099) 670 77 55
Uvala Bačvice bb Local lobster is the focus at
Tel (021) 489 200 STON: Konoba Bakus this atmospheric restaurant,
Stellon is a modern-looking bar- Regional Road Map E6 situated in a wooden pavilion
restaurant above Bačvice beach, Angeli Radovani 5 mounted above the shoreline
serving pastas and European Tel (020) 754 270 lobster pens. A variety of fresh
classics to a young and The local seafood menu at this fish is also available.
fashionable clientele. family-run eatery is impeccably
cooked and presented – oysters
SPLIT: Boban from Mali Ston and traditional DK Choice
European Road Map D5 Dubrovnik-region desserts are VIS: Pojoda
Hektorovićeva 49 among the specialities. Regional Road Map D6
Tel (021) 543 300 Don Cvjetka Marasovića 8, Vis
Tucked into a residential street, STON: Kapetanova kuća Tel (021) 711 575
Boban has a long-standing Regional Road Map E6 Situated in a walled garden
reputation for its high-quality Mali Ston shaded by orange trees in the
menu of Adriatic and European Tel (020) 754 555 enchanting suburb of Kut,
fare; the inexpensive daily specials Mali Ston bay is famous for its Pojoda enjoys a Croatia-wide
are popular with local lunchers. oysters, which are prepared in a reputation for cultivating
variety of ways at this elegant traditional Adriatic island
SPLIT: Kadena restaurant near the waterfront. recipes. The lobster, squid and
Seafood Road Map D5 shellfish dishes are first-class;
Ivana pl. Zajca 4 TROGIR: Fontana there are also a lot of home-
Tel (021) 389 400 Seafood Road Map D5 style dishes specific to Vis that
Occupying a terrace overlooking Obrov 1 combine seafood with barley,
the seafront path and yachting Tel (021) 885 744 lentils and chick peas. It’s a
marina, Kadena specializes in With an outdoor terrace right popular place in summer, so
local fish and shellfish, prepared on the harbour, Fontana be sure to reserve.
with haute-cuisine flair. specializes in local seafood,
although you can also enjoy
SPLIT: Oyster & Sushi Bar pizzas and juicy grilled meats. VIS: Villa Kaliopa
Bota Seafood Road Map D6
Seafood Road Map D5 TROGIR: Kamerlengo Vladimira Nazora 32, Vis
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 755
preporoda 6 Vukovarska 2 Set in a palm-shaded walled
Tel (021) 488 648 Tel (021) 884 772 garden, Kaliopa is one of the
Located in a striking modern In the heart of the Old Town and most romantic places to eat
pavilion behind Bačvice beach, boasting a lovely walled garden, on the Adriatic coast. The fresh
this is the place to go for expertly Kamerlengo mostly serves seafood is excellent, if a little
grilled fresh fish, sushi Dalmatian- seafood – although the grilled on the expensive side.
style and sparkling-fresh oysters meats are also a speciality.
from Ston just along the coast. ZADAR: Na Po Ure
VIS: Karijola Traditional Road Map C4
SPLIT: Uje Oil Bar Pizzeria Road Map D6 Špire Brusine 8
Bistro Road Map D5 Šetalište viškog boja 4, Vis Tel (023) 312 004
Dominisova 3 Tel (021) 711 358 Closed Oct–Apr Dalmatian staples including fish,
Tel (095) 200 8008 A branch of the Karijola pizzeria squid and pašticada (beef stewed
Billed as an olive-oil bar, Uje based in Zagreb, this place, with in prunes) fill the menu of this
serves quality, tapas-style light a sea-facing terrace, serves inexpensive and homely bistro in
bites based on traditional reliable thin-crust pies. the Old Town.
Key to Price Guide see p238
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 245
Mostovi
Bosnian-Herzegovinian DK Choice
Road Map D2 Bistro Apetit
Radnička cesta 1a International Road Map D2
Tel (01) 619 21 78 Jurjevska 65a
A large, lively, popular restaurant Tel (01) 467 73 35
in Zagreb’s new business district, A short walk north of Zagreb’s
Mostovi serves Balkan-style oven- Upper Town, award-winning
Tables on the covered terrace at Vinodol, roast meats, savoury pastries and Apetit specializes in creative
central Zagreb delicious syrupy desserts. Mediterranean-European
cuisine, with fresh, locally
Apetit City Nishta sourced ingredients forming
International Road Map D2 Vegetarian Road Map D2 the backbone of a seasonally
Masarykova 18 Masarykova 11/1 changing menu that includes a
Tel (01) 481 10 77 Tel (01) 889 74 44 Closed Mon good balance of meat and fish.
Specializing in Central European Quality, creative vegetarian There’s a strong list of Croatian
and Mediterranean fare, the menu cuisine, complete with vegan and international wines, and
here features soups, home-made and gluten-free options, is the desserts are sublime. In
pasta, fresh fish and classic meat served here in bright, relaxing summer, tables are set out in
dishes. Pair these with wines surroundings. The drinks menu an attractive garden. Parking is
from the excellent collection. includes home-made lemonades available for guests.
and organic wines.
Boban
Italian Road Map D2 Pod gričkim topom Dubravkin put
Gajeva 9 Central European Road Map D2 Mediterranean Road Map D2
Tel (01) 481 15 49 Zakmardijeve stube 5 Dubravkin put 2
In a brick-lined basement below Tel (01) 483 36 07 Tel (01) 483 49 75 Closed Sun
the café of the same name, Dishes from all over Croatia are A culinary landmark, this eatery
Boban serves some of the best served at this uniquely secluded offers a light lunch menu, a
pasta dishes in the city, backed venue, nestling in a walled fine dining dinner menu and
up by a good list of Italian wines. garden just below the Upper a dégustation menu that changes
Town’s funicular station. daily. The wine collection is
Carpaccio extensive.
Italian Road Map D2 Vinodol
Teslina 14 Central European Road Map D2 Mano
Tel (01) 482 23 31 Teslina 10 International Road Map D2
This is a chic but not too formal Tel (01) 481 14 27 Medvedgradska 2
place to enjoy mainstream Italian Grilled meats and roast lamb Tel (01) 466 94 32 Closed Sun
food, with meat and fish are the specialities at this Exposed brick walls lend post-
carpaccios filling out the list of popular city-centre restaurant, industrial chic to this restaurant
starters, veal cutlet mains, and boasting a large terrace in a set in a former leather factory;
some thrilling desserts. covered courtyard. the building also houses a
sculpture museum. The menu
takes its cue from seasonal
availability at the Dolac market.
Okrugljak
Traditional Road Map D2
Mlinovi 28
Tel (01) 467 41 12
Traditional Croatian dishes
are cooked with finesse at
this Zagreb institution. Try
the popular štrukli and other
meat dishes from the region.
Takenoko
Japanese Road Map D2
Nova ves 17
Tel (01) 486 05 30
Much more than just a sushi bar,
Japanese-themed Takenoko
Nishta, a haven for those seeking meat-free and gluten-free choices in Zagreb serves some of the most inventive
Key to Price Guide see p238
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 247
Trilogija
European Road Map D2
Kamenita 5
Tel (01) 485 13 94 Closed Sun
Situated near the Stone Gate,
Trilogija has a changing menu that
incorporates ingredients from the
nearby Dolac market. The wine
list, with over a 100 labels from
around the world, is impressive.
Zinfandel’s
Fine Dining Road Map D2
Mihanovićeva 1
Tel (01) 456 66 44 Tapas-style Croatian food at Mali Bar, Zagreb
Modern European cuisine is the
name of the game at this elegant SAMOBOR: Samoborska klet ZVEČAJ: Zeleni kut
but not over-formal hotel Central European Road Map C2 Regional Road Map C2
restaurant, boasting an Art Deco- Trg kralja Tomislava 7 Zvečaj 109
styled interior and a long list of Tel (01) 332 65 36 Tel (047) 866 100
international wines. This family-run restaurant just Freshwater fish from their own
behind the town square serves pond and local meats dominate
straightforward Croatian fare – the menu in this plainly built
schnitzel-style cuts of meat, tasty but idyllically situated restaurant,
Central Croatia sausages, and the occasional by gently cascading river falls.
Adriatic seafood option. Pizzas and vegetarian dishes
ČIGOĆ: are also available here.
Tradicije Čigoć SAMOBOR: U prolazu
Regional Road Map D2 Café Road Map C2
Čigoć 7a Trg kralja Tomislava 5
Tel (044) 715 124 Tel (01) 336 64 20 Slavonia and
This traditional-style wooden One of the specialities of
house in a riverside Lonjsko Polje Samobor is a cream cake called Baranja
stork village provides the perfect kremšnita, and this popular café,
ambience in which to feast on with chairs spread across the BRODSKI STUPNIK:
freshwater fish and local game. town square, is one of the best Stupnički dvori
places to try it. Traditional Road Map E2
GRABERJE IVANIĆKO: Vinogradska 65
Kezele SAMOBOR: Pri staroj vuri Tel (035) 427 775
Traditional Road Map D2 Central European Road Map C2 Dine (almost) among the vines
Vinogradska 6 Giznik 2 at the restaurant of this restful
Tel (01) 282 04 96 Tel (01) 336 05 48 Closed Tue hotel and fine winery, in a
Superb country-cooked classics In a charming cottage above the picturesque vine-growing village.
are served this working farm in a town square, the “Old Clock” The helpful team are ready to
rural setting: mouthwatering spit- bases its reputation on hearty help you match their traditional
roasts and baked meats, delicious country cooking involving plenty dishes – including wine soup –
baked dessert pastries and the of veal, pork and fowl. with their own and other
farm’s own wines and liqueurs. Croatian vintages.
SAMOBOR:
JASTREBARSKO: Samoborski slapovi ĐAKOVO:
K Lojzeku Seafood Road Map C2 Croatia Turist
Central European Road Map C2 Hamor 16 Regional Road Map F2
Strossmayerov trg 12 Tel (01) 338 42 34 Petra Preradovića 25
Tel (01) 628 11 29 Closed Sun Just northwest of Samobor in Tel (031) 813 391
This well-respected restaurant a wooded valley, Samoborski This is a restaurant that serves
provides traditional Croatian slapovi is a fish farm with its own the whole gamut of Slavonian
cooking with a creative twist; excellent restaurant – try the cuisine, from spicy kulen salami
expect plenty of roast poultry pan-fried trout. to freshwater fish and čobanac
and grilled meats. (spicy meat stew).
SISAK: Cocktail
KARLOVAC: Žganjer Central European Road Map D2 DARUVAR: Terasa
Central European Road Map C2 A. Starčevića 27 Central European Road Map E2
Jelaši 41 Tel (044) 549 137 Julijev park 1
Tel (047) 641 333 Located in the centre of Sisak, Tel (043) 331 705
South of Karlovac towards this popular restaurant opts for Located near Daruvar’s main spa
Plitvice, this roadside restaurant a mixture of traditional Croatian buiding, this restaurant serves
prides itself on serving traditional pork and veal dishes and Croatian, Hungarian and Italian
specialities such as spit-roast Mediterranean-influenced cuisine in an ambience of old-
lamb and suckling pig. pastas and salads. fashioned elegance.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
248 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
ILOK: Dunav
Regional Road Map G2
Julija Benešića 62
Tel (032) 596 500
Set on lawns right beside the
Danube, this hotel restaurant is
renowned for its fresh fish, serving
the spicy stewed fiš paprikaš in
individual metal cauldrons.
Cosy rustic styling at Kod Ruže, Osijek
ILOK:
Stari podrum NOVA GRADIŠKA: SLAVONSKI BROD: Onyx
Central European Road Map G2 Slavonski biser Pizzeria Road Map F3
Šetalište O M Barbarića 4 Central European Road Map E2 Nikole Zrinskog 50
Tel (032) 590 088 Teslina 2–4 Tel (035) 445 555
This award-winning wine Tel (035) 363 259 Bright, welcoming Onyx is
producer has a restaurant in the This simple but welcoming primarily a pizzeria, although it
medieval part of the town over restaurant serves a well-cooked also serves Croatian/European
its cavernous cellars, offering standard range of Central fare ranging from grilled meats to
new wines and venerable European dishes and a few fried squid and Wiener Schnitzel.
vintages to pair with traditional local Slavonian staples.
freshwater fish and meat dishes. VUKOVAR: Vrške
OSIJEK: Café Waldinger Regional Road Map G2
Café Road Map F2 Parobrodarska 3
DK Choice Županijska 8 Tel (032) 441 788
KOPAČKI RIT: Tel (031) 250 470 Set right beside the River
Kormoran Osijek’s most elegant café is a Danube, Vrške is the place for
Traditional Road Map G2 key meeting point for locals freshwater carp, catfish or pike-
Podunavlje bb and a lovely venue for people- perch, pan-fried au naturel or in
Tel (031) 753 099 watching: it serves an irresistible breadcrumbs or batter.
A hearty freshwater fish stew range of cakes, pastries, tarts and
with home-made noodles, ice cream.
spit-grilled carp and dishes DK Choice
made with local game are just OSIJEK: Rustika ZMAJEVAC: Josić
some of the rural delights on Pizzeria Road Map F2 Regional Road Map G2
the menu at this rustic complex Pavla Pejačevića 32 Planina 194
set in the Kopački Rit Nature Tel (031) 369 400 Tel (031) 734 410 Closed Mon, Tue
Park. With a relaxed, country- Pizza is the main attraction at this Located in an artfully renovated
tavern vibe inside and large, large, family-oriented restaurant, surduk, or tunnel-like wine cellar
safe play areas outside, it’s ideal although grilled meats, salads burrowed into a hill, Josić is one
for a family pitstop. and pasta dishes ensure that of the trend-setters of Baranja
there is something for everyone. tourism, serving local specialities
such as fiš paprikaš (paprika-
KUTJEVO: OSIJEK: Kod Ruže stewed fish) and game, all in
Schön Blick Regional Road Map F2 a modern setting. The owner is
Regional Road Map F2 Kuhačeva 25a a leading winemaker and there
Zagrebačka 18, Vetovo Tel (031) 206 066 is a choice of wines from Josić
Tel (034) 267 108 Appropriately decked out and other Croatian vineyards.
Located in an idyllic rural setting, in agricultural implements,
Schön Blick serves freshwater Kod Ruže serves traditional
fish and grilled meats with country food such as paprika-rich
great finesse. stews featuring plenty of game
and fish. The Northern
NAŠICE: Ribnjak
Counties
Regional Road Map F2 OSIJEK: Slavonska kuća
Stjepana Radića 1 Regional Road Map F2 ČAKOVEC: Mala hiža
Tel (031) 607 006 Kamila Firingera 26 Traditional Road Map D1
Located in a charming rustic Tel (031) 369 955 Balogovec 1, Mačkovec
location 10 km (6 miles) outside Decorated to look like a country Tel (040) 341 101
Našice on the Osijek road, the kitchen, the Slavonska kuća or A menu based firmly in the
Ribnjak, or “Fishpond”, is an "Slavonian House" is one of the indigenous, seasonal cuisine is
excellent place in which to best places to sample freshwater complemented by an extensive
enjoy local dishes, including fish, either pan-fried, or stewed as wine list in this lovingly restored
freshwater fish. hot, spicy fiš paprikaš. traditional oak building.
Key to Price Guide see p238
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K 249
ZABOK:
Dvorac Gjalski
Central European Road Map D1
Gredice Zabočke 7
Tel (049) 201 100
This excellent hotel restaurant is
based in a former castle and has
a medieval theme. The extensive
menu includes a wide variety of
Peaceful, hilltop setting at the traditional Vuglec breg, Krapina Croatian cuisine.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
250 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN CROATIA
Croatia does its best to encourage its On the island of Pag, exquisite lace is
visitors to go shopping (indeed it is a made and in Osijek, where beautiful
significant factor in local economies) and embroidery is a proud tradition, you can
there is a range of traditional and typical also buy pretty costume dolls. Ties and
crafts that make excellent souvenirs. The fountain pens, both of which originated
prices are by and large very reasonable in Croatia, also make good purchases. In
too. Shoppers can choose from a variety some resorts, local artists make a living
of products, from works of creative by selling their watercolours. Visitors can
handicraft such as handmade lace or also buy all sorts of delicious Croatian
hand-painted ceramics to jewellery. comestibles, from honey to plum brandy.
Shopping Centres
Large shopping centres can also
be found in Croatia, mainly in
the larger towns and cities. Here
you will find a number of shops
selling assorted merchandise
under one roof, usually including
a large department store or
supermarket. Decorated ceramic objects on display
In Zagreb one of the busiest
and best-known department themes. You can also buy background. This design is used
stores is Nama, which is right in good reproductions of objects to decorate table linen, pillow
the centre of the city. Another from the era of Roman rule in cases and blouses.
useful shopping centre, also in the underground area of In 2009 lace making in
the city centre, is Importanne Diocletian’s Palace (see p122). Croatia was inscribed on the
Centar. The Importanne In Osijek, many shops in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural
Galerija is open weekdays centre of the city sell typical Heritage of Humanity list. This
and Saturdays. locally made handicrafts. Here includes three different
Avenue Mall is another huge you can also find dolls dressed traditions of lace making,
shopping centre has over 130 in beautifully made costumes, namely Pag needlepoint lace,
shops, including international packages of special lace and Lepoglava bobbin lace and
names such as Benetton, in particular fabrics finely Hvar aloe lace.
Adidas, Esprit and Marks & embroidered with gold and The lace of Pag is justly famous
Spencer. Westgate Shopping silver thread. and widely admired. The origins
City is a huge shopping centre of the lace date back to the
just outside Zagreb. Renaissance period, when it was
Embroidery and Lace used to decorate the blouses of
One important typical Croatian the ladies of the island of Pag.
Traditional Handicrafts craft is the art of embroidery, However, it was not until
There are lots of opportunities which is carried out more or the beginning of the 20th
for the visitor to buy a variety less everywhere. century that this particular
of typical Croatian handicrafts One very characteristic handiwork assumed its well-
and produce, which make very design is a red geometric deserved fame, thanks to a
tempting souvenirs. pattern stitched onto a white beautifully decorated blouse
The country has a long given by a noblewoman to the
tradition of skilled production Archduchess of Austria Marie
of a rich range of handicrafts Josephine. This gift was so
and typical produce. Production greatly appreciated and
of these crafts is encouraged admired that the archduchess
and supported by the local went to Pag in person to order
authorities, who see it as a more items of clothing. At that
good way of preserving the time, the Austrian court set
cultural heritage and the trends for others to follow, and
ancient traditions and crafts this was enough to guarantee
of the country. the future success for the
In Zagreb, you can buy production of this lace.
clothes, handbags, fashion The lace is made on a
accessories, pillow cases and long cylindrical cushion by
table linens embroidered with lacemakers of great skill and
Glagolitic (ancient Slavic) letters tremendous patience. The lace
and traditional motifs at Etno patterns produced are the
butik Mara. In Split you can lacemaker’s interpretation of
find a large assortment of patterns and designs which
souvenirs, including objects Gold thread embroidery produced in the have been passed down from
clearly inspired by maritime town of Osijek generation to generation. In this
252 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
Curiosities
Croatia can claim to have
invented one of the most well-
Lacemaker working on a piece of Pag lace known of men’s accessories, the
tie, or cravat. The tie actually
way, the pieces of lace that are from a Turkish siege during the originates from a type of scarf
produced can often be very 16th century. It was shown that worn by Croatian cavalrymen
different from one another. a determining factor in the to distinguish them from other
However, all the patterns victory was the contribution of soldiers during the bloody
originate with the same the women of Rijeka and it is 30-year war which devastated
geometric structure which said that their men decided to Europe in the 17th century.
forms the base. give them a gift of special The French took to referring
Pag lace is surprisingly light earrings made to represent to this particular way of tying
but at the same time strong. the invaders who had been the scarf as “à la cravate”,
If at all possible, pieces of the forced to flee for their lives. meaning “in the Croatian
lace should be bought in Pag In fact, it seems more way”. Since that time the
itself. Not only can you be sure likely that the morčić tie, or cravat, has become
of paying a better price than originated in the 17th a standard symbol of
elsewhere but you will be and 18th centuries as a smart, elegant dressing
helping to keep alive a tradition local reproduction, made for hundreds of millions
which is over a century old. from decidedly poor of men in the world.
Prices vary according to the materials, of a figurine The production of
size of the piece you buy, set with stones which ties in Croatia today
but if you consider that a table was very popular with is still of a very high
centrepiece measuring 10 cm the Venetians. The An earring with the standard, and a tie
(4 in) in diameter takes a figurine represented the morčić of Rijeka would make a highly
good 24 hours to make, you connections between appropriate choice
will have some idea of the Venice and the East and the for a souvenir of your visit.
labour involved. mystery that this part of the There are some very good
The only place to buy lace in world symbolized for them at clothes shops in the centre of
Pag is at the Lace gallery and the time. The figure soon Zagreb where you can buy an
shop in the old part of town. became a symbol of good luck assortment of ties, including the
among the Istrian people and high-end Boutique Croata.
Lucky Jewellery
There is one item of jewellery
which can only be found in
Croatia or, more precisely, only
in Rijeka. This is the morčić or
small Moorish figure. The
figurine, in the form of a black
character wearing a turban, was
originally produced as earrings
but today you can also find tie-
pins and brooches. The morčić
has become the symbol of the
city and, in 1991, it was
proclaimed the mascot of
Rijeka. A legend dates the
origins of the figurine to the
city’s unexpected liberation One of many jeweller’s shops in Croatia
S H O P P I N G I N C R O AT I A 253
ENTERTAINMENT IN CROATIA
Although Croatians speak a language anyone. The settings for many of these
which is most likely completely unknown entertainments are often memorably
to the average visitor, the country still spectacular, too. Performance details are
manages to offer a surprisingly varied readily available from weekly or monthly
range of accessible and engaging magazines of events and from tourist
entertainment for visitors of all age offices and websites. Tickets are usually
groups. A choice of opera, ballet, folk easy to come by, and can be bought at
music festivals, disco nightclubs, cinemas, venue ticket desks or often in advance
casinos, tennis, football and basketball from local tourist offices. Read ahead to
matches should be sufficient to satisfy see what’s on and where to go.
Cinema
Most large towns in Croatia
have a cinema. Zagreb has
several multiplexes, such as
Cinestar in Avenue Mall and
Branimir Centar and Cineplexx
in City Center One East. Kino-
teka shows cult and art films.
Tickets cost from 20 to 40 kuna
and films are shown in their
original languages with Croatian
subtitles. You can expect to
see the latest Hollywood hits.
Conditions can be more basic
in smaller towns where you
Carpe Diem beach club, Hvar may come across rows of
wooden chairs, rather like being
If you prefer a big, techno party island of Pag, hosts the world’s back at school. Neither will
house teeming with teenagers, leading DJs. Less fashionable things be so luxurious in the
the Colosseum in otherwise but just as much fun is the summer open-air cinemas
staid and stately Opatija is the Faces Club, on the island of Brač, which are more atmospheric:
place to go. near Bol. the films too might not be your
Split boasts several clubs first choice but the experience
with open-air terraces looking is worth trying.
out to sea, the best of which Casinos
are the two-storey O’Hara and As you would expect, the
the palm-filled Tropic Club. The capital Zagreb has the most Spectator Sports
Hemingway Bar offers a wide casinos and as with the rest of Tito’s post-war Yugoslavia,
selection of drinks, especially Croatia they are found in the of which Croatia was a part,
cocktails, good music and more upmarket hotels. (There consistently put out strong
occasional live performances. are “casinos” in lesser hotels teams in handball, football
Rock Club Uljanik has Pula’s but they are usually not worth (soccer), basketball and water
liveliest alternative concerts in visiting.) Try those at the Hotel polo. Since 1991, when Croatia
a vacant building above the International, Hotel Westin broke away to become an
shipyards. Out of town are and the Golden Sun Casino independent nation, this small
Aruba Club, a lounge bar and in the Hotel Antunović. Any country of only 4.5 million
disco, and Summer Club, for casino will have an array of slot people continues to excel in
pop/house partying. machines along with a number those sports and has added
Dubrovnik is diverse in what of card tables where stakes are tennis to its sporting repertoire.
it offers: Culture Club Revelin relatively low. Normally you can If you love tennis then go to
takes over the Revelin fort wear just smart casual clothing www.croatiaopen.hr to find
with high-volume techno; and walk straight in. However, it out the latest news on the ATP
Night Club Fuego is casual, might be worth calling ahead Croatia Open Championships,
relaxed and plays a range of beforehand – the most held at Umag in July.
music; Club Lazareti is popular upmarket casinos may ask to Croats, just like so many other
and holds concerts, parties see your passport before you Europeans, love their football.
and events. can enter. The 1990s saw now legendary
On the islands, Hvar has
become a fashionable centre
for nightlife and developed a
bit of a reputation as a party
island. Early evening activity
centres around Hvar town
harbour, in bar-cum-clubs like
Carpe Diem where the dancers
warm up before heading up
the tree-covered hillside to a
big old Venetian fort that has
been converted into an
amazing venue, with tented
structures hosting plays,
concerts and an open-air
nightclub, Veneranda. Papaya
Club, on Zrće beach on the Hotel Westin in Zagreb, home to a casino
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N C R O AT I A 257
DIRECTORY
Theatres Nightclubs Močvara Hotel Westin
Trnjanski nasip bb, Izidora Kršnjavoga 1,
Croatian National Aquarius Club Zagreb. Zagreb.
Theatre Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb, Tel (01) 615 96 67. Tel (01) 554 52 71.
Trg Gaje Bulata 1, Split. Jarun, Zagreb. Night Club Fuego
Tel (021) 306 908. Cinema
Tel (01) 364 02 31. Brsalje 8, (near Pile Gate),
Croatian National Dubrovnik.
Aruba Club Cineplexx
Theatre
Šijanska cesta 1, Pula. O’Hara City Center One East,
Široka ulica 8,
Uvala Zenta 3, Split. Slavonaska avenija 11d.
Zadar. Boogaloo Club Tel (095) 504 99 09.
Tel (023) 314 586. Tel (01) 563 24 00.
Ulica grada Vukovara 68, Palach Youth
Croatian National Zagreb. Cinestar Novi Zagreb
Cultural Centre
Theatre Avenue Mall, Avenija
Tel (01) 631 30 22. Kružna 8, Rijeka.
Trg maršala Tita 15, Dubrovnik 16, Zagreb.
Zagreb. Carpe Diem Papaya Club Tel (060) 323 233.
Tel (01) 488 84 15. Riva, Hvar. Zrće Beach, Novalja,
Pag. Cinestar Zagreb
Croatian National Club Lazareti Branimir Centar, Kneza
Theatre Ivan pl. Zajc Rock Club Uljanik
Frana Supila 8, Dubrovnik. Branimira 29, Zagreb.
Dobrilina 2,
Uljarska 1, Rijeka. Tel (060) 323 233.
Colosseum Pula.
Tel (051) 337 114.
Zagrebačko kazalište
Ulica maršala Tita 129, Summer Club Spectator Sports
Opatija. Medulin, Pula.
lutaka Dražen Petrović
Ulica baruna Trenka 3, Culture Club Revelin Tropic Club
Basketball Centre
Zagreb. Bačvice bb, Split.
Svetog Dominika 3, Savska cesta 30,
Tel (01) 48 78445. Tel (099) 203 92 22.
Dubrovnik. Zagreb.
Veneranda Tel (01) 484 33 33.
Music Faces Club On the hill above Riva,
Near Bol, Brač. Hvar town, Hvar. Maksimir Stadium
Dubrovnik Summer
Maksimirska 128,
Festival Green Gold Club
Od Sigurate 1, Dubrovnik
Casinos Zagreb. Tel (01) 238 61 11.
Radnička cesta 52, ∑ gnkdinamo.hr
(ticket office). Hotel Antunović
Zagreb.
Tel (020) 326 123. Zagrebačka avenija 100a, Poljud Stadium
Tel (099) 256 33 23.
Roman Zagreb. Tel (01) 387 05 30. 8 Mediteranskih igara 2,
Amphitheatre Hemingway Bar Hotel International 21000 Split.
Tourist office: Forum 3, 8 Mediteranskih igara 5, Miramarska 24, Zagreb. Tel (021) 585 200
Pula. n (052) 219 197. Split. Tel (099) 211 99 93. Tel (01) 615 00 25. ∑ hajduk.hr
258 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
One of the keys to Croatia’s tourist success hiking and biking throughout its
is that it is blessed with such bountiful wonderfully diverse topography. There
natural resources – waterfalls, islands, are also less energetic activities to be
hills, rivers, lakes, canyons, mountains, enjoyed. Croatia has several thermal
pine woods and verdant parks – all soaked spa centres that can be a bit utilitarian
in dependable Mediterranean sunshine. but are getting better as retreats for
To its credit, Croatia has responded well by unwinding after some activity. Finally,
providing a good infrastructure backed by of course, the coastline and myriad
a multitude of organizations to get visitors islands have a glittering choice of
climbing and rafting, sailing and surfing, beaches for sunworshippers.
Rijeka UKW channel 24, Radio abound in the Adriatic and are
Split UKW channels 07, 21, 23, useful not only for hiring
81 and Radio Dubrovnik UKW equipment but also for going
channels 07 and 04. on guided tours with English-
speaking instructors.
Areas off-limits to divers are
Windsurfing around military installations,
Most coastal resorts offer protected cultural monuments
windsurfing courses and boards and some, but not all, nature
for hire, but serious surfers will reserves. Diving is forbidden
enjoy two places in particular: in Krka and Brijuni parks for
Bol, on the island of Brač, example but, with a permit, is
and Viganj on the Pelješac allowed in the Kornati National
Peninsular, close to Orebić. Both Park and the islands of Mljet.
resorts have many renowned Check beforehand if you intend
windsurfing clubs, offering kit The clear waters off Croatia, rich in marine to be adventurous.
and courses from beginner to life and coral
expert. Also, note, both places
play annual host to international try Vis – thanks to its military Fishing
championship events in July. background the island was The Adriatic Sea is one of the
The windsurfing season runs never commercially fished and richest in Europe and draws all
from early April to late October consequently has the richest kinds of fishermen. In order to go
and the westerly winds are at marine life. The best underwater fishing you will need a licence.
their peak in the early afternoon. caves are around the beautiful These are issued by tourist
Conditions are ideal in late May/ Kornati Islands, while interesting offices, authorised agencies and
early June and in late July/early shipwrecks can be found near diving centres and clubs which
August – though the latter, of Rovinj (Baron Gautsch,1914 have an arrangement with the
course, is in the high season. passenger ferry), Dubrovnik Ministry of Agriculture and
(Taranto, 1943 merchant ship) Forestry. The cost of a licence is
and the Pelješac Peninsular not terribly great and depends
(S57, another merchant casualty on its duration – you can
of war, from 1944). purchase licences valid for
There are, however, rules and 1 day, 3 days, a week or 30 days.
regulations about who can dive The licences permit fishing
where. To dive at all, you will with a rod and line or a spear
need to show a current diver’s gun and it is possible to fish
card issued by an internationally everywhere except in the
recognized diving organization. protected areas of the marine
For a small fee, this is then given parks (that is, Kornati, the Brijuni
a year-long validation by the islands, Krka and Mljet). Along
Croatian Diving Federation with the licence you will receive
or any of its agents – which a list of the areas which are off-
could be an authorised tourist limits and indications of the
agency or the nearest diving number of each fish species
Windsurfing, a very popular sport along club to your hotel. Diving clubs that you are allowed to catch.
the Croatian coast
Diving
Although Croatia may not be
the Caribbean or the Red Sea, it
nonetheless has its fair share of
interesting dive sites. Nature has
fashioned plenty of underwater
caves from the porous karstic
limestone along the coast, to
which you can add the further
attractions of sea walls and
shoals of fish and, at greater
depths, shipwrecks and corals.
Lošinj Island has all the above
features and is probably the
most comprehensive dive site in
Croatia. If fish are your interest, Locals showing the wide variety of fish and shellfish in the Croatian sea
260 TRAVELLERS’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Sailing
ACI Marinas
M Tita 151, Opatija.
Tel (051) 271 288.
∑ aci.hr
Club Adriatic
∑ clubadriatic.com
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
In Croatia, tourism is an important source have been rebuilt and modernized,
of revenue (accounting for approximately and road and maritime links have been
15 per cent of the GDP in 2014) and every improved, both internally and with
effort is being made to foster the growth neighbouring countries. The country
and development of the industry. Since has reaffirmed itself as a popular holiday
independence in 1991, a number of destination, able to offer tourist facilities
measures have been taken to encourage of international standard at competitive
visitors, including simplifying border prices. Croatia joined the European Union
formalities and introducing tax reductions in 2013, though many of its pre-existing
on items destined for export. Hotels and regulations and practices already fell
historic buildings damaged in the war in line with EU standards.
Tourist Information the afternoon (when visitors are restaurants, where a service
Every town and city has a tourist most likely to go to the beach) charge is normally included in
office, called Turistički Ured, but open in the evening. the price. When paying in bars
Turistička Zajednica or Turistički or in taxis it is expected that at
Informativni Centar. These state- least the sum will be rounded
run offices provide information Language up. It is also customary to tip
on sightseeing, excursions and Croatia is called Hrvatska in the the tourist or museum guides
transport and will often help national language, Croatian after a tour has ended.
visitors to find accommodation (hrvatski). It is a Slavic language In department stores, super-
in hotels or private rooms (see and is written in the Latin script. markets and shops, the prices
pp222–3). However, in smaller Croatian is not an easy tongue to for goods are fixed. Bargaining,
cities and towns, these offices learn, but since most people in especially aggressive haggling,
are open during summer only. the country have studied at least is not generally part of Croatian
Additionally, there are one other foreign language, street-market culture.
county and regional tourist visitors should be able to make
offices, managed by the themselves understood in most
Ministry of Tourism. circumstances. Italian, German Travellers with
Alternatively, you can contact and English are widely spoken Disabilities
the Croatian National Tourist while French is less common. In Croatia there is a great
Board in your home country Young Croatians generally speak awareness of the problems
before leaving. The Croatian very good English. faced by the disabled parti-
Ministry of Tourism has set up cularly because of the war of
information offices in all major independence which left many
countries to publicize the Etiquette and Smoking people with disabilities. Stations,
attractions Croatia has to offer. Smoking is very common in airports, larger hotels and
The website of the Croatian Croatia (an estimated 30 per restaurants above a certain
National Tourist Board is cent of the population smokes), standard, and the main public
particularly helpful. but is officially banned in all offices in larger towns are
enclosed public spaces, except accessible to those in
for cafés that have approved air wheelchairs. However, facilities
Admission Prices conditioning systems. While at the ports are not so good.
Most state-run museums and most establishments in Zagreb Disabled visitors are entitled
historical sites charge an adhere to this law, it is frequently to a 50 per cent reduction in
entrance fee between 10 kn ignored in the south of the ticket prices at most state-run
and 70 kn. Children are normally country. All the same, in museums. For further inform-
entitled to a 50 per cent summer, you can sit at the ation, contact the Hrvatski
reduction in admission prices. outdoor tables to avoid the savez udruga tjelesnih invalida
Churches are usually free, smoke in closed spaces. (HSUTI), the Croatian organiz-
though if there is an adjoining ation for the disabled, which
bell-tower or treasury, you may has its headquarters in
have to pay to visit them. Taxes and Tipping Zagreb. Also useful is the
The practice of tipping, usually HUPT website, which provides
calculated at 10 per cent, is information on accessible
Opening Hours widespread in Croatia, even in beaches and accommodation.
Public offices open from 8am
to 4pm or 9am to 5pm on
weekdays. While most other
office businesses more or less
follow these standard opening
times, these hours may vary for
other businesses, such as
pharmacies (see pp268–9), banks
(see pp270–71) and post offices
(see pp272–3), the bigger ones
of which are also open on
Saturdays. Shops are usually
open 8am–8pm (see p250), while
cafés tend to open quite early.
Note that many museums
and other cultural attractions
are closed on Mondays. During
summer, most have extended
daily opening hours, and in
coastal resorts, some close in Pedestrians walking on a stone bridge in Ploce Gate, Dubrovnik
266 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
holidays in Croatia include the island of Pag, lavender oil Croatian ethical tour operators
Away with Dune (formerly and dried lavender on the include the Makarska-based
Dune Leisure). island of Hvar, pršut (prosciutto), Biokovo Active Holidays, who
dried figs throughout Dalmatia, organize outdoor adventures
tartufi (truffles) in Istria, and sports, including hiking and
Time wine in all the major wine- mountain biking on Mount
Croatia is one hour ahead of producing regions (you can visit Biokovo and rafting down
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) in vineyards and taste their wine the River Cetina near Omiš,
winter, and two hours ahead before purchasing). and the Dubrovnik-based Adria
in summer. Visitors can take part in Adventure, who specialize in sea
eco-friendly activities such kayaking and hiking holidays.
as hiking, mountain biking, The UK-based ethical tour
Electricity sailing and rafting – a greener operators arranging holidays in
The electric current supplied alternative to fuel-guzzling Croatia include Responsible
is 220V, 50Hz all over the motorboats for example. Travel and Swim Trek.
country. The standard
European two-pin plugs
are used throughout Croatia.
Responsible Tourism
Visitors can support local
communities by shopping for
local seasonal produce at
markets such as the daily covered
markets in Zagreb, Rijeka and
Pula, the vast open-air market in
Split, and many other smaller
markets in towns and villages.
Visitors can buy local special-
ities direct from producers in
various destinations, such as
paški sir (sheep’s cheese) on Trogir market, Dalmatia
DIRECTORY
Embassies and ∑ gov.uk/government/ Tourist Naturism
Consulates world/organisations/ Information
british-embassy-zagreb Away with Dune
American Embassy, ∑ visit-croatia.co.uk Tel 01371 879 686.
Canadian Embassy ∑ awaywithdune
Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona Croatian National
Prilaz Gjure Dezelica 4, co.uk
2, Zagreb. Tel (01) 661 22 Tourist Board
Zagreb. Tel (01 488 12 00.
00. ∑ zagreb. Iblerov trg 10/IV, Zagreb.
Irish Honorary Tel (01) 469 93 33. Responsible
usembassy.gov
∑ croatia.hr
Tourism
Consulate
Australian Embassy Miramarska 23, Zagreb. Adria Adventure
Ministry of Tourism
Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves Tel (01) 631 00 25. ∑ mint.hr.hr Tel (020) 311 545.
11/3rd floor, Zagreb. ∑ kayakingcroatia.
Travel Safety Zagreb Information
Tel (01) 489 12 00. com
Advice ∑ infozagreb.hr
∑ croatia.embassy.
gov.au Australia Travellers with Biokovo Active
Department of Foreign Disabilities Holidays
British Consulate Tel (021) 679 655.
Affairs and Trade
Dubrovnik Hrvatski savez ∑ biokovo.net
∑ dfat.gov.au
Vukovarska 22. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
udruga tjelesnih
invalida Responsible Travel
Tel (020) 324 597.
UK Šoštarićeva 8, Zagreb. Tel (01) 273 823 700. (In
Split
Foreign and Tel (01) 481 20 04. the UK)
Obala Hrvatskog
Commonwealth Office ∑ hsuti.hr ∑ responsibletravel.
Narodnog Preporoda 10/ com
∑ gov.uk/foreign-
III. Tel (00 385) 21 346 007. HUPT (Croatian
travel-advice
Paraplegic & Swim Trek
British Embassy US Tetraplegic Tel (01) 273 739 713. (In
I. Lučića 4, 10000 Zagreb. US Department of State Association) the UK) ∑ swimtrek.
Tel (01) 600 91 00. ∑ travel.state.gov ∑ hupt.hr com
268 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Diners Club
Tel 44 124 447 0910.
∑ diners.com.hr
Eurocard–MasterCard
Tel 1 636 722 7111 (collect call).
Visa
Tel 0 800 220 111 (wait for the
second dial tone, then enter
866 654 0125).
done by calling the relevant issues banknotes of 1000, 500, quoted in marks. However,
card’s emergency number 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 kuna, the mark was replaced
(which is usually a number featuring Croatian heroes. by the euro in January
providing a 24-hour service, Coins come in denominations 2002 when it became the
seven days a week). Inform of 5, 2 and 1 kuna, and 50, 20, common currency of the
your bank before departure 10, 5, 2 and 1 lipa. The local European Union. The
that you are travelling so that abbreviation for kuna is kn, but government tries to keep
they do not block your card the international abbreviation rates of exchange steady,
due to unusual activity. is HRK. which helps travellers and
The Croatian currency was also helps to present an
formerly closely linked to the overall image of stability to
Currency German mark and until 31 potential foreign investors.
The kuna is divided into 100 December 2001, prices for The euro is now accepted
lipa (the word “lipa” means a accommodation, especially in all banks and bureaux
linden tree). The Central Bank private rooms, were always de change.
Banknotes
The Central Bank issues banknotes of 1000, 500,
200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 kuna. Notes bear the
portraits of famous Croats such as Stjepan
Radić and Josip Jelačić.
20 kuna
50 kuna
100 kuna
200 kuna
Coins
The kuna is divided into 100 lipa. The coin
denominations are 5, 2 and 1 kuna and 50, 20,
10, 5, 2 and 1 lipa. The 20 and 50 lipa coins are
silver-coloured and the 10 and 5 lipa coins are
bronze-coloured.
1 kuna 2 kuna 5 kuna
DIRECTORY
Area Codes
Bjelovarsko-Bilogorska: 043
Brodsko-Posavska: 035
Dubrovačko-Neretvanska: 020
Istarska: 052
Krapinsko-Zagorska: 049
Ličko-Senjska: 053
Karlovačka: 047
Koprivničko-Križevačka: 048
Međimurska: 040
Osječko-Baranjska: 031
Typical newspaper kiosk in Valpovo Požeško-Slavonska: 034
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most visitors take a direct flight from their own transport, usually car or
the UK to Zagreb, Split or Dubrovnik motorbike. A great deal has been done
and there are useful internal flights to develop and improve all means of
between the three main airports. During transport and the country now has
the summer months, numerous charter good connections to the rest of Europe
flights operate and the smaller airports and the world. It is also possible to get
in Croatia open. Many tourists visiting the to Croatia by train, for those who prefer
country come from nearby Germany, Italy this form of transport – this is a much
and Austria, which are all well connected slower method, although the network
by road or sea. These visitors often use is being modernized.
Arriving by Air Stansted; and to Split from There are also flights to
The national airline company, Bristol, London Gatwick and Zagreb from Australia and
Croatia Airlines, links Croatia’s Stansted. Jet2.com flies to New Zealand that have
main airports with the rest of Dubrovnik from Belfast, stopovers at major Asian
Europe. The major European Edinburgh, Leeds, Manchester and European airports.
destinations are Amsterdam, and Newcastle; and to Pula and
Athens, Barcelona, Frankfurt, Split from Manchester, Leeds
Berlin, Brussels, Copenhagen, and Edinburgh. Monarch flies Air Fares
London, Munich, Paris, Rome, to Dubrovnik from London The air fares on scheduled
Podgorica, Tel Aviv, Istanbul, Gatwick and Birmingham. Wizz flights to Croatia vary
Skopje, Zurich, Sarajevo, Venice Air flies to Split from Luton according to the airline and
and Vienna. airport; and Ryanair flies to the the time of year. Fares tend
Other European airlines cities of Osijek, Pula and Rijeka to be higher in the summer.
offering scheduled services from Stansted, and to Zadar From the UK there are regular
to Croatia include British from Stansted and East scheduled flights from Gatwick
Airways (which operates both Midlands airport. and Heathrow to Zagreb,
a summer and a winter service From Dublin, Aer Lingus with connections to Pula,
between London Gatwick and flies direct to Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik, Rijeka and Split,
Dubrovnik, making Dubrovnik Pula. Since there are no direct as well as direct flights from
a year-round city break flights from the US or Canada Gatwick to Dubrovnik. There
destination), and Star Alliance to Croatia, travellers will need are charter flights to Croatia
members Lufthansa, Austrian to change at one of the main from a wide range of UK
Airlines, Brussels Airlines, Air European hubs such as regional airports during the
France, TAP Portugal, Turkish London, Rome or Frankfurt, summer months (May–
Airlines, SAS Scandinavian and then take a further September). Note that it is
Airlines and Swiss International connecting flight to Croatia. possible to get discounts
Airlines. Flying time from There is a daily flight to Zagreb on ticket prices by booking
London is 2 hours 10 minutes from Rome Fiumicino, for them through price
and from Frankfurt 1 hour example, as well as five flights comparison websites such
30 minutes. The no-frills airline a week to and from Split, and as Kayak, Zugu, Momondo
EasyJet flies to Dubrovnik two flights a week to and and Skyscanner.
from London Gatwick and from Dubrovnik.
Transport from
Airport to Town
Croatia has three main airports.
Zagreb airport is 15 km
(9 miles) from the centre of
the city and is connected by
a bus service to the central bus
station in Držićeva; the journey
takes about 25 minutes and runs
from the city to the airport from
4:30 or 5am to 8pm and in the
opposite direction from 7am to
8pm (or before and after Croatia
Airlines flight departures and
Croatia Airlines plane at Split airport arrivals). The airport at Split is
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 275
Arriving by Sea
Croatia’s main international
ferry connections are with Italy
via the ports of Ancona, Bari,
Venice and Trieste. The main
Croatian maritime company is
Jadrolinija (see p279) which runs
services between Ancona and
Split (three times a week). The
crossing takes nine hours.
Ancona–Zadar runs three times
a week, an 8-hour journey, and
Bari–Dubrovnik runs three
times a week in winter and
six times a week in summer One of the ships that connect Croatian ports with the rest of the Adriatic
(taking 10 hours by night;
7-and-a-half hours by day for Venezia Lines operate in the Lines also run a fast catamaran
the journey). In peak season Northern Adriatic and link the in the Northern Adriatic,
(mid-July to mid-August) the northern Adriatic coasts of Italy connecting Trieste, Rovinj and
Ancona–Split ferry also makes a and Croatia, though they Pula, from late June to mid-
stop at Stari Grad on the island run in summer only (April– September. The Italian ferry
of Hvar. Blue Line is another September). company SNAV
Croatian company running Regular catamaran runs a fast daily
regular 10-hour ferry services lines run between Croatia Jet
between Ancona and Split, and Venice and the Symbol of the maritime catamaran service
seasonal ferry services between Istrian towns company Jadrolinija between the cities
Ancona and Hvar, and Ancona of Poreč, Rovinj, of Ancona and
and Vis. Ferries are well Pula and Rabac, and also Split from mid-June to late
equipped with restaurants, between Venice and Mali Lošinj September (the journey time
bars and duty free shops. on the island of Lošinj. Trieste being 5 hours).
DIRECTORY
Croatian National Monarch Thomson Holidays eTrains4U
Tourist Board Tel 0333 003 0100 (UK). Tel 020 3451 2688 (UK). Unit 25, Tileyard Studios,
Suite 4C, Elsinore House, ∑ thomson.co.uk Tileyard Road,
∑ monarch.co.uk
77 Fulham Palace Road, London N7 9AH.
London W6 8JA.
Ryanair Arriving by Coach Tel 020 7619 1083 (UK).
Tel 0871 246 0000 (UK). ∑ etrains4u.com
Tel (020) 8563 7979 Dubrovnik bus
(from UK). ∑ ryanair.com station Rail Europe
∑ croatia.hr Wizz Air Tel (060) 305 070 (Cro). 193 Piccadilly, London
∑ libertasdubrovnik.hr W1J 9EU.
Tel 0911 752 2257 (UK).
Arriving by Air Tel 0844 848 4064.
∑ wizzair.com Eurolines ∑ raileurope.co.uk
Aer Lingus Tel 0044 871 781 8178.
Tel 0333 004 5000 (from Package Holidays ∑ eurolines.com Arriving by Sea
UK).
Adriatic Holidays Split bus station Blue Line
∑ aerlingus.com
Tel (060) 327 777 (Cro). Tel (356) 2122 3299.
Tel 01865 339 481 (UK).
British Airways ∑ ak-split.hr ∑ blueline-ferries.com
∑ adriaticholidays.
Tel 0344 493 0787 (UK).
co.uk Trieste bus station SNAV
∑ britishairways.com
Tel 0039 040 425 020. Ancona, Italy.
Croatia Airlines Balkan Holidays ∑ autostazione Tel 0039 071 207 6116.
Tel 0844 371 0310 (UK); Tel 0207 543 5555 (UK). trieste.it ∑ snav.it
(01) 667 65 55 and (072) ∑ balkanholidays. co.uk Trieste Lines
Zagreb bus station
500 505 (in Croatia). Viale Miramarer 9, Trieste,
Light Blue Travel Tel (060) 313 333
∑ croatiaairlines.com Italy.
Tel 01223 568 904 (UK). and (01) 611 278 9 (Cro).
Tel 0039 0923 873 813.
EasyJet ∑ akz.hr
∑ lightbluetravel. ∑ triestelines.it
Tel 0330 365 5000 (UK).
∑ easyjet.com co.uk Arriving by Train Venezia Lines
Trg Matije Gupca 11,
Jet2.com Saga Holidays Croatian Railways Poreč.
Tel 0333 300 0042 (UK). Tel 0800 096 0074 (UK). Tel (060) 333 444 (Cro). Tel (052) 422 896.
∑ jet2.com ∑ travel.saga.co.uk ∑ hzpp.hr ∑ venezialines.com
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 277
Breakdown Assistance
and Traffic Information
Emergency road services
are provided by the local
Automobile Club, HAK, which
can be reached 24 hours a day
all year round by dialling 1987
(preceded by 003851 for calls
from outside Croatia). The
service provides repairs (a
charge will apply) on the spot
or in a garage (subject to
transport), the removal of
damaged cars and transport up
to 100 km (62 miles) distance.
The HAK also provides useful
information on road and Entrance to the main railway station in Zagreb, Glavni kolodvor
maritime traffic, motorway tolls,
any temporary diversions, the Trains Buses
prices of petrol, ferry times, Although the railway network Buses are a convenient means
possible alternative routes and in Croatia is slowly being of transport. The national bus
general assistance for those modernized, travelling by train is service covers an extensive
travelling by car. Their website not very popular except in the network with numerous
provides useful information area around Zagreb. However, connections and destinations,
and links. all the main Croatian towns and although tickets will be more
cities are linked by rail, with the expensive than on trains.
exception of Dubrovnik, where Suitcases and larger rucksacks
Road Conditions/Hazards there is no railway station at all. will need to go into the luggage
Croatian roads are of a decent The main railway station is in storage compartments below
standard, comparable to those the capital city (Glavni Kolodvor the bus and incur a surcharge.
in most EU countries, while Zagreb). There are trains to Services are divided into
the newly constructed motor- Rijeka with connections to the “intercity” (direct connections
ways are superior to most. Istrian towns; to Split, with a between the larger cities) and
However, the picturesque branch line for Zadar and the regional services (with
Magistrala (coastal highway), Šibenik, serving the Dalmatian connections between the smaller
which runs down the Adriatic coast; to Osijek, to the east and towns and the main cities).
from Rijeka to Dubrovnik, twists Varaždin, to the north. There are daily connections
and turns and can be extremely The following journey times between the towns and cities of
slippery when wet. On the can be expected: 4 hours for Croatia and night buses cover
islands and in rural areas, the Zagreb to Rijeka, 6 hours the longer routes.
roads may be narrow and from Zagreb to Split (or For information, go to the local
poorly surfaced. 8 hours 30 min by night), bus station (autobusni kolodvor)
2 hours for Zagreb–Varaždin, and consult the timetable. Vozi
and 4 hours 30 minutes for svaki dan indicates the daily
Car Hire Zagreb–Osijek. Express services services, while ne vozi nedjeljom ni
Car rental agencies can be operate on some routes. praznikom shows which services
found in all the main towns and Croatian Railways (Hrvatske do not run on Sundays and public
cities, airports and holiday Željeznice) has its main office holidays. The main bus station in
resorts. A valid driving licence is in Zagreb (seep276). Zagreb is the Autobusni
required and the driver must be kolodvor Zagreb in Zagreb the
at least 21 years old. Besides the main station in Split is Autobusni
well-known large multinational kolodvor Split.
rent-a-car companies such as
Avis, Budget and Hertz, there
are many local independent Coach Tours
companies as well. The travel agency Atlas offers a
The larger companies, choice of coach tours, such as
however, offer the option of the 8-day escorted “Highlights
leaving the car in a different of Croatia” which includes
town from the collection point. Dubrovnik, Split, Trogir, Zadar,
Not all rental companies are able Zagreb and Plitvice and the
to offer this flexibility and there 10-day “UNESCO Heritage Sites
is always an extra charge for Travelling by coach to the city and National Parks of Croatia”.
this service. of Dubrovnik Atlas also runs regular 1-day
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 279
trips from Dubrovnik to nearby Bribinj and Zaglav, on the island such as Stinica–Mišnjak and
destinations such as Ston and of Dugi Otok and from Biograd Drvenik–Sućuraj, ferries sail non-
Korčula, Mostar (in Bosnia- to Tkon on the island of Pašman. stop so as to cope with the long
Herzegovina) and the River In the district of Šibenik, the queues that tend to form in the
Tara (in Montenegro). town is connected to the middle of the day.
islands of Zlarin and Prvić. For those travelling without
In the Split district there are a car or motorbike, high-speed
Island Ferries connections between Split and catamarans connect Split to the
The majority of ferries and the islands of Brač (Supetar), surrounding islands of Brač,
catamarans connecting the Korčula (Vela Luka), Hvar (to Hvar, Vis, Korčula and Lastovo
mainland and the islands are Starigrad), Šolta (Rogač), Vis (to with the most frequent services
run by the state-owned the port of the same name) and from June to September. The
company, Jadrolinija. These Lastovo (to Ubli). There are also crossing times range from
ferries can transport both connections between Makarska 45 minutes to Hvar to 2 hours
passengers and vehicles. and Sumartin (island of Brač), 30 mins to Lastovo.
The Croatian ferry network is between Ploče and Trpanj on In addition to Jadrolinija,
divided into five districts. In the the Pelješac peninsula, between there are several small
Rijeka district, Cres and Lošinj Orebić and Dominče (on the private companies that operate
are connected to the mainland island of Korčula) and between certain routes. G & V Line runs
by the Valbiska–Merag and Drvenik and Sućuraj (island catamarans from Dubrovnik to
Brestova–Porozina routes. of Hvar). Mljet and from Zadar to several
There is also a ferry running Finally, in the district of small nearby islands. Linijska
from Rijeka to Mali Lošinj, with Dubrovnik, the main connec- nacionalna plovidba runs
stops at Cres, Unije and Susak tion is between Dubrovnik and catamarans from Split to Brač
en route. The island of Rab is the island of Mljet (Sobra), while and Šolta, and from Pula to
connected to the coast by the there are also small ferries Zadar (summer only), as well
Stinica–Mišnjak route and with running between Dubrovnik as ferries from Valbiska (on Krk)
the island of Krk by the Lopar– and the Elaphiti islands of to Lopar (on Rab) and from
Valbiska route. Finally, the island Koločep, Lopud and Šipan. Drvenik (on the mainland)
of Pag is connected to the coast to Dominča (on Korčula).
by the Prizna–Žigljen route, Miatours runs hydrofoils
while Novalja on Pag is Ferry Frequency from Zadar to the nearby
connected to Rijeka with a Ferry services run frequently in islands, while Rapska plovidba
stop at Rab Town en route. the high season (July and runs ferries from Stinica (on
In the district of Zadar, there August), but are significantly the mainland) to Mišnjak
are connections to the cities of reduced outside the summer (on Pag), and from Rab
Preko, on the island of Ugljan, months. On some short routes, Town (on Rab) to Lun (on Pag).
DIRECTORY
Airports Zadar Hertz Ferries
Tel (023) 205 800. Tel (072) 727 277.
Brač ∑ hertz.hr Jadrolinija
∑ zadar-airport.hr
Tel (021) 559 711. Riva 16, Rijeka.
∑ airport-brac.hr Zagreb Buses Tel (051) 666 111.
Tel (060) 320 320. ∑ jadrolinija.hr
Dubrovnik Autobusni kolodvor
∑ zagreb-airport.hr Zagreb
Tel (020) 773 100.
G & V Line
∑ airport-dubrovnik.hr Information
Driving Tel (060) 313 333. Tel (020) 313 119.
Osijek ∑ akz.hr ∑ gv-line.hr
Tel (060) 339 339. HAK
Tel 1987. Tel (072) 777 Autobusni kolodvor Linijska nacionalna
∑ osijek-airport.hr
777 (traffic information).
Split plovidba
Pula Information Tel (021) 352 527.
Tel (060) 308 308. Tel (060) 327 777.
Car Rental ∑ lnp.hr
∑ airport-pula.hr ∑ ak-split.hr
Avis Miatours
Rijeka Coach Tours
Tel (01) 467 36 38. Tel (023) 254 300.
Tel (051) 841 222.
∑ rijeka-airport.hr ∑ avis.com.hr Atlas ∑ miatours.hr
Izidora Kršnjavog 1,
Split Budget Zagreb.
Rapska plovidba
Tel (021) 203 506. Tel (062) 300 331. Tel (01) 241 56 11. Tel (051) 724 122.
∑ split-airport.hr ∑ budget.hr ∑ atlas-croatia.com ∑ rapska-plovidba.hr
280 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Tickets
Tickets for trams and buses
can be bought on board all
buses and trams, and from
newsagents or kiosks. The
basic ticket is for a single
journey. It must be punched
in the machine as soon as you
get on board and is valid for
90 minutes from that time.
Tickets cost 10 kuna each. There
is also a one-day ticket that
costs 40 kuna, a good idea if
One of many tram lines serving the entire city you intend to make various trips
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 281
Funicular Railway
An interesting method of
transport is the uspinjača, a
steep funicular railway that has
been in operation since 1890. At
66 m (216 ft), this is one of the Taxis readily available in all the big cities of Croatia
shortest climbs in the world and
takes a little less than a minute to Taxis
DIRECTORY
climb up from the Lower Town In Zagreb, as in any other large
to the Upper Town, arriving close city, taxis can be found readily. Trams
to the Lotrščak tower. Departures There are several small private
ZET
are from Tomićeva street, right companies, such as Eko Taxi
in the centre, and the cable cars (a fleet of hybrid vehicles); the Tel (01) 365 15 55, (060) 100 001.
leave every 10 minutes from long-established and experi- ∑ zet.hr
6:30am to 10pm (midnight in enced Radio Taxi Zagreb; and
summer). The price of a single Taxi Cammeo, with its smart Taxis
ticket is 4 kuna. uniformed drivers. All of their
Eko Taxi
vehicles are licensed, with
Tel 1414 and (060) 77 77.
meters on board. Taxi fares vary
from company to company, ∑ ekotaxi.hr
but you can expect to pay 10 Radio Taxi Zagreb
kuna as the basic starting rate Tel 1717.
and then 5 kuna for every ∑ radiotaxizagreb.com
kilometre of your journey.
Taxi Cammeo Zagreb
Tel 1212.
Car Rental
∑ taxi-cammeo.hr
In the capital, it is also possible
to rent a car by contacting one Car Rental
of the main car rental companies
such as Budget, Hertz and Avis
Avis. Assistance while you Oreskoviceva 21, Zagreb.
are on the road is provided Tel (01) 467 36 38.
by the Croatian Automobile ∑ avis.com.hr
Club, which can also offer
advice on routes (see pp278–9). Budget
Radnička 45, Zagreb.
Tel (062) 300 331.
Funicular railway connecting the Lower and Cycle Hire/Bike Tours ∑ budget.hr
Upper Towns Being fairly flat and even, Zagreb
Hertz
is a bicycle-friendly city. There
Cable Car is a network of clearly marked Vukotinovićeva 4, Zagreb.
The Žičara is a cable car that bicycle lanes connecting most Tel (072) 727 277.
connects Zagreb with Sljeme, of the main attractions, except ∑ hertz.hr
the highest peak in the Mount for the medieval quarter of
Medvednica range, in a journey Gornji Grad. There are several Bike Tours
time of 20 minutes. The companies offering bikes for
Zagreb by Bike
system has been in operation hire in the city centre, and
since 1963; however; it is some companies, such as Meeting point: Trg bana Josipa
currently closed for renovation Zagreb by Bike, also arrange Jelačića 15 (in the backyard),
as a new cable car is planned. guided tours by bicycle. There Zagreb.
Until this has been completed is a public bike-sharing system Tel (098) 188 33 44.
buses will connect Zagreb as well. Visit www.nextbike.hr ∑ zagrebbybike.com
with Sljeme. for more information.
282 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to B Biševo 13, 129
main entries B&Bs 224 Bishop’s Palace (Križevci) 219
Babino Polje (Mljet) 143 Biskupija 37, 112
A Babonić family 179 Bizovac 187, 200
Abbess Castle (Split) 125 Badija 141 Bjelovar 219
Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 138–9 Bakar 81 Blaca Hermitage (Brač) 127
Adam and Eve (Albertinelli) 171 festivals 29 Blaise, St 148, 151
Admission prices 265 Bale (Valle) 59 Blaise (Blaž) of Trogir 116, 138–9
Ager (Hvar) 131 festivals 30 Blato 140
Aimone of Savoy 44 Baljanska Noć (Bale) 30 Boats
Air travel 274–5, 276, 277, 279 Balka, Miroslav 169 ferries 276, 279
Albert (German painter) 68 Banking 270–71 Kornati Islands 101
Albertinelli, Mariotto Banknotes 271 sailing 258–9, 261
Adam and Eve 171 Bannfy family 209 seasickness 269
Aleši, Andrija 24, 27 Baptistry of St John (Split) 120 Bogdanović, Bogdan 179
Cathedral of St James (Šibenik) Baranja see Slavonia and Baranja Bogišić, Baltazar 153
110, 111 Barban 66 Bogomili 188
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) festivals 30 Bokanić, Trifun 115
114, 115 Barbarian invasions 36 Bol (Brač) 127
Alexander, King 44 Bargaining 265 Boljun 71
Alexander III, Pope 84, 94 Baroque architecture 27 Bollé, Hermann
Alexander the Great 33 Baroque Evenings in Varaždin 30 Cathedral of the Assumption of
Alighieri, Nicolò 159 Bašić, Nikola 96 the Blessed Virgin Mary (Zagreb)
Ambulances 269 Baška 81 158
Amphitheatre (Pula) 51, 64–5, Bassano, Antonio da 56 Church of the Holy Trinity
86–7, 255, 257 Bassano, Leandro da 131, 133, 153 (Križevci) 219
Anastasia, St 96 Bastl, Vjekoslav 167 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 169
Anastasius, St 118, 119 The Bather (Renoir) 166 Museum of Arts and Crafts
Andreotti, Paolo 151 Batina 193 (Zagreb) 166
Andrew II, King of Hungary 39 Batone 34, 35 SS Cyril and Methodius (Zagreb)
Topusko Toplice 178 Battahyany family 218 165
Varaždin 206 Beaches Sanctuary of St Mary of Bistrica
and Zrinski dynasty 181 Brač 126–7, 144–5 (Marija Bistrica) 215
Andrew III, King of Hungary 40 Crikvenica 82 Bombelles, Marko, Count 209
Andrijić, Marko 138 Gradac 135 Bonino of Milan
Angelini, N 177 Jelsa (Hvar) 131 Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 139
Animals, travel documents 264 Lopar 85 Cathedral of St Domnius (Split)
Arch of the Sergians (Pula) 62 Makarska 134 123
Archaeological museums naturism 266–7 Cathedral of St James (Šibenik)
of Istria (Pula) 63 Sunj 153 110
Split 125 Bedekovčina 215 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Zadar 95 Beer 236 152
Zagreb 12, 168–9 Bela III, King 206 St Barbara (Šibenik) 108
Archbishop’s Palace (Zagreb) Bela IV, King 38, 39 St Mark (Korčula) 138
158–9 Jastrebarsko 176 Boschetus, Juan 132
Architecture 26–7 Pag Town 104 Bosnia-Herzegovina 136
Arpad, King 38 Požega 188 Botanical Garden of the Faculty
Arpad dynasty 40 Zagreb 155, 164 of Science (Zagreb) 167
Arsenal (Hvar) 132 Bela Nedeja (Kastav) 31 Botanical gardens see Parks and
Art and artists 24–5 Belec 217 gardens
Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 168 Bellini, Gentile 115, 116 Botticelli, Sandro 171
Atelier Kožarić 169 Bellini, Giovanni Božidarević, Nikola 32, 153
ATMs (Automated Teller Machines) St Augustine and St Benedict 171 Brač 13, 126–7, 140, 144–5
270 Benetović, Martin 133 airport 279
Attila 178 Berislavić-Grabarski counts 189 hotels 228
Augustinčić, Antun 24 Bernard, Ban of Croatia 181 map 126
Antun Augustinčić Gallery Bernardino of Parma 137 restaurants 240–41
(Klanjec) 215 Bicycles 260, 277, 281 Braće Radić Square (Split) 124
birthplace 215 Big Fountain of Onofrio (Dubrovnik) Branimir, Duke 26, 38
Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 149 Branislav Dešković Gallery (Brač)
169 Big Lake (Veliko Jezero, Mljet) 127
Modesty 159 142 Brass Gate (Split) 120–21
monument to Tito 214 Bilje 193 Breakdown services 269, 278,
World War II monument (Batina) hotels 231 279
193 Birds Bribir counts 39
Augustus, Emperor 34, 35, 178 Kopački Rit Nature Park 49, Brijuni National Park 23, 60–61
Aurelian, Emperor 34, 35 198–9 Brlić-Mažuranić, Ivana 189
Autumn in Croatia 30–31 Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 180 Brođanci 200
Avars 36 Plitvice Lakes National Park 88 festivals 30
GENERAL INDEX 283
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park 23, 173, Maps (cont.) Meštrović, Ivan (cont.)
180, 182–3 Split 121 Meštrović Gallery (Split) 124
Lopar 85 Thermal Spas tour 216–17 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 169
Lopud 153 Trogir 115 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168
Loredan family 66 Varaždin 207 Monument of Bishop Gregory of Nin
Lošinj (Lussino) 75 Vis 128 207
hotels 226 Zadar 95 monument to Andrija Medulić
restaurants 238 Zagreb 156–7 168
Lost property 268 Zagreb: Upper Town 160–61 monument to Marko Marulić
Lotto, Lorenzo 125 Marcello, Niccolò, Count 108 (Split) 124
Louis I, King of Hungary 40 Marchiori, Giovanni 54 Mother and Child 163
Louis II, King of Hungary 40 Maria Anna, Empress 69 National Art Gallery (Split) 125
Louise of Aragon 181 Maria Banac (Meštrović) 24 Račić Mausoleum (Cavtat) 153
Lovran 68–9 Maria Theresa, Empress 219 Resurrection of Lazarus 163
festivals 31 Marija Bistrica 202, 204, 215 St Mark (Korčula) 138
hotels 226 restaurants 249 St Mark (Zagreb) 164
restaurants 238 Marina 113 statue of Gregory of Nin (Nin) 102
Lubinsky, Rudolf 27 Marjan Peninsula 125 statue of St Blaise (Dubrovnik) 148
Lucić, Hanibal 133 Markets 250–51 tomb of Cardinal Alojzije Stepinac
Ludbreg 218 Dolac Market (Zagreb) 12, 155, 158
Lukačić, Ivan 124 159 The Well of Life 166
Luke, St 73 Marmont, General 42, 64 Woman by the Sea 163
Lumbarda 140 Martinov, Peter 151 Methodius, St 37, 71
Lussino see Lošinj Marulić, Marko 40, 124 Metković
Marun, Lujo 163 hotels 229
M Marunada (Lovran) 31 restaurants 243
Madame Recamier (Gros) 170 Mary with Child (Meštrović) 164 Metzinger, Valentin 67, 176, 177
Magaš, Boris 125 Maslinica (Šolta) 126 Michelozzi, Michelozzo
Magazines 273 Maso di Bartolomeo 152 Bokar Fort (Dubrovnik) 149
Majláth Manor (Donji Miholjac) 200 Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 148
Makarska 134–5 40 Ston 137
hotels 229 Opuzen 136 Walls (Dubrovnik) 148
restaurants 243 Štrigova 209 Mihanović, Antun
Maksimir Park (Zagreb) 13, 169 Veliki Tabor 214 monuments to (Klanjec) 215
Mali Brijun 60, 61 Mauro (sculptor) 115 Milano, Francesco da 94
Mali Lošinj 75 Maurus, St 56 Miličević, Paskoje 137
Malumbra, Toma, Bishop 138 Maximian, Emperor 122 Military Frontier (Vojna Krajina) 41,
Mana 101 Maximilian, Archduke 152 83, 173, 178, 185
Maps Maximilian, Emperor 181 Miljana 214
Brač 126 Medieval Mediterranean Garden of Milna (Brač) 126–7
Brijuni National Park 60–61 St Lawrence Monastery (MMG) Mimara, Ante Topić 166
Central Croatia 174–5 (Šibenik) 108 Mimara Museum (Zagreb) 27,
Cres 74 Međimurje 166–7
Croatia 16–17, 48–9 festivals 31 Minčeta Tower (Dubrovnik) 93,
Dalmatia 92–3 Medović, Celestin 148
Dubrovnik 146–7, 149 Križevci 219 Ministry of Tourism 267
Europe 17 Požega 189 Mirogoj Cemetery (Zagreb) 13,
Fortified Towns tour 70–71 St Francis (Zagreb) 159 169
Hvar 130–31 Medović, Mato C 168 Mljet 91
Hvar Town 133 Medulić, Andrija hotels 229
Istria and the Kvarner area 52–3 monument to (Zagreb) 168 Mljet National Park 13, 23, 142–3
Itineraries 10–11 Mersi, Anton 211 Mobile phones 272
Kopački Rit Nature Park 198–9 Mesić, Stipe 45 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168
Korčula 138–9 Meštrović, Ivan 24, 163 Modernist architecture 27
Kornati National Park 100–1 Baptistery of St John (Split) 120 Mohács, Battle of 40
Krk 80 birthplace 190 Mohammed II, Sultan 40
Krka National Park 106–7 Biskupija 112 Molat 99
Lošinj 75 Bust of a Woman 190 Monasteries and convents
Mljet National Park 142–3 Church of the Most Holy Benedictine Convent (Hvar) 132
Northern Counties 204–5 Redeemer (Otavice) 112 Convent of St Justine (Rab) 85
Osijek 195 Dalmatinac monument (Pag Dominican Monastery (Brač) 127
Osijek: The Fort (Tvrđa) 196–7 Town) 105 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Pag 104–5 Distant Accords 124 12, 147, 152
Plitvice Lakes National Park 88–9 Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) Dominican Monastery (Stari Grad,
Pula 63 170 Hvar) 131
Rab 85 History of Croatia 163 Franciscan Convent of St Anthony
Rijeka 73 Kaštilac (Split) 124 Abbot (Rab) 85
Risnjak National Park 76–7 Loggia (Trogir) 116 Franciscan Monastery (Dubrovnik)
road map see Back Endpaper Maria Banac 24 150
Salona 119 Mary with Child 164 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar Town)
Šibenik 109 Meštrović Atelier (Zagreb) 133
Slavonia and Baranja 186–7 161, 162 Franciscan Monastery (Sinj) 113
288 GENERAL INDEX
Monasteries and convents (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Music 255, 257
Monastery of the Holy Cross Ethnographic Museum (Split) festivals 28–31
(Osijek) 197 120–21 Sea Organ (Zadar) 96
Monastery of St Andrew (Rab) 84 Ethnographic Museum (Zagreb) Musical Biennial of Zagreb 28
Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran 167 Musical Evenings in St Donat
(Ilok) 191 Ethnographic Museum (Županja) (Zadar) 29
Monastery of St James (Osijek) 190–91
195 Ethnographic Museum of Istria N
Monastery of St Mary (Mljet) 142 (Pazin) 67 Naive painting 24, 25
Monastery of St Nicholas Ethnological Museum- Staro Selo Nakić, Petar 108
(Orahovica) 201 (Kumrovec) 214–15 Napoleon I, Emperor 40, 41, 42, 51
Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Fishing Museum (Komiža) 129 Narona 136
Visovac (Krka National Park) 106 Gallery of Old and Modern Našice 201
Money 270–71 Masters (Varaždin) 206 festivals 28
Morelli, Captain 69 Gallery of Old Masters (Zagreb) restaurants 248
Morlach family 112 12–13, 170–71 National Art Gallery (Split) 124–5
Moronzoni, Matteo 96 Heritage Museum (Rovinj) 58 National Parks 23
Morosini family 66 Historical and Maritime Museum Brijuni 23, 60–61
Morovič, Ivan, Count 192 of Istria (Pula) 62–3 Kornati 23, 48, 100–1
Mošćenice 68 Hlebine Gallery 205, 218 Krka 15, 23, 106–7
Mošćenićka Draga Icon Collection (Korčula) 139 Mljet 13, 23, 142–3
restaurants 238 Ivan Meštrović Gallery (Vrpolje) 190 North Velebit 23
Mother and Child (Meštrović) 163 Koprivnica Gallery 218 Paklenica 23, 103
Motorcycles 275 Malacological Museum (Makarska) Plitvice Lakes 14, 23, 48, 50, 88–9
Motorways 277 135 Risnjak 23, 76–7
Motovun 70 Maritime and History Museum of National and University Library
hotels 226 the Croatian Littoral (Rijeka) 72–3 (Zagreb) 27
restaurants 238Mountains 22 Maritime Museum (Orebić) 137 National Theatre (Varaždin) 207
hiking in 260, 261 Međimurje Civic Museum Naturism 266–7
Mraz, Franjo 25 (Čakovec) 208 Nerežišća (Brač) 127
Murtić, Edo 169 Meštrović Atelier (Zagreb) 161, 162 Neretva, River 136
Museums and galleries Meštrović Gallery (Split) 124 Neum 136
Abbey Treasury (Korčula) 138–9 Mimara Museum (Zagreb) 27, New Castle (Split) 125
Antun Augustinčić Gallery 166–7 Newspapers 273
(Klanjec) 215 Modern Gallery (Zagreb) 168 Nicephorus, St 67
Archaeological Museum (Split) Museum of Ancient Glass (Zadar) Nightclubs 255–6, 257
125 94 Nin 102
Archaeological Museum (Zadar) 95 Museum of Arts and Crafts Northern Counties 203–19
Archaeological Museum (Zagreb) (Zagreb) 166 food and drink 235
12, 168–9 Museum of Contemporary Art hotels 231
Archaeological Museum of Istria (Zagreb) 13, 169 map 204–5
(Pula) 63 Museum of Croatian restaurants 248–9
Bauer Gallery (Novska) 179 Archaeological Monuments (Split) Thermal Spas tour 216–17
Brač Museum (Škrip) 127 124 Nova Gradiška 188
Branislav Dešković Gallery (Brač) Museum of Fine Arts (Osijek) 195 restaurants 248
127 Museum of Krapina Neanderthal Novalja (Pag) 105
Civic Museum (Buje) 54 Men (Krapina) 211 Novi Mikanovci 190
Civic Museum (Ilok) 191 Museum of Moslavina (Kutina) 180 Novi Vinodolski 82
Civic Museum (Karlovac) 177 Museum of Nin Antiquities (Nin) festivals 29
Civic Museum (Koprivnica) 218 102 Novigrad (Cittanova) 55
Civic Museum (Križevci) 219 Museum of Sacred Art (Trogir) 116 restaurants 238–9
Civic Museum (Našice) 201 Museum of Sacred Art (Zadar) 95 Novska 179
Civic Museum (Požega) 189 Museum of Sinjska alka (Sinj) 113
Civic Museum (Samobor) 176 Museum of Slavonia (Osijek) 194, O
Civic Museum (Sisak) 174, 178 197 Odescalchi, Livio, Commander 191
Civic Museum (Trogir) 114 National Art Gallery (Split) 124–5 Odescalchi Manor (Ilok) 191
Civic Museum (Varaždin) 206 Pazin Town Museum 67 Ogulin 178
Civic Museum (Vinkovci) 191 Poreč Museum 55 Okić 175, 176
Civic Museum (Virovitica) 201 Regional Civic Museum (Slavonski Old Castle (Split) 125
Count’s Palace – Civic Museum Brod) 189 Old Loggia (Šibenik) 108
(Šibenik) 108 Regional Museum (Ogulin) 178 Olib 99
Cres Museum 74 Split City Museum 120 Olive Days (Punat) 31
Croatian History Museum (Zagreb) Stari Grad Museum (Hvar) 130, 131 Olympics of Ancient Sports
160, 164 Town Museum (Korčula) 139 (Brodanci) 21, 30, 200
Croatian Museum of Naive Art Town Museum (Labin) 67 Omiš 134
(Zagreb) 160, 165 Town Museum (Vis) 128 festivals 29
Croatian Natural History Museum Valpovo Museum 200 Omišalj 80–81
(Zagreb) 160, 162 Vjekoslav Karas Gallery (Karlovac) On the hills - rainforest (Rabuzin) 165
Entomological Museum (Varaždin) 177 Opatija 51, 69
207 Vučedol Culture Museum 192 festivals 31
Ethnographic Museum Vukovar Municipal Museum 192 hotels 226–7
(Mošćenice) 68 Zagreb City Museum 12, 162 restaurants 239
GENERAL INDEX 289
Opeka Park (Vinica) 209 Palma il Giovane (cont.) Polo, Marco 138
Opening hours 265 Labin 67 Pompey 34
restaurants 233 Oratory of the Holy Spirit (Omiš) Population 20
shops 250 134 Poreč (Parenzo) 55–7
Opuzen 136 Our Lady of Charity (Hvar) 133 Euphrasian Basilica 48, 56–7, 78–9
Orahovica 201 St Dominic (Split) 120 festivals 29
Orebić 137 St Dominic (Trogir) 117 hotels 227
hotels 229 Škrip (Brač) 127 restaurants 239
restaurants 243 Sunj 153 Porto-Salviati, Giuseppe 66
Orsera see Vrsar Palma il Vecchio 59 Postal services 272–3
Orsini, Bishop of Trogir 115 Pannonia 35, 36, 185 Poste restante service 273
Orsini, Giorgio see Dalmatinac, Parenzo see Poreč Povlja (Brač) 127
Juraj Parking 277 Požega 188–9
Osijek 41, 186, 194–7 Parks and gardens festivals 28, 30
airport 279 Botanical Garden (Sjeverni Pre-Romanesque architecture 26
festivals 28, 31 Velebit National Park) 83 Pregrada 214
The Fort (Trvđa): Street-by-Street Botanical Garden of the Faculty of Prehistoric sites 33
map 196–7 Science (Zagreb) 167 Preko (Ugljan) 98
hotels 231 Maksimir Park (Zagreb) 13, 169 Premuda 99
map 195 Medieval Mediterranean Garden Pribislao, Giovanni da 108
restaurants 248 of St Lawrence Monastery (MMG) Pribojević, Vinko 133
Osor 74 (Šibenik) 108 Primošten 113
Osor Music Festival 29 Opeka Park (Vinica) 209 hotels 229
Otavice 112 Ribnjak Public Gardens (Zagreb) Prince’s Palace (Rab) 84
Otto I, Emperor 38 159 Private lodgings 223–4
Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Trsteno Arboretum 12, 152 Probus, Emperor 34
Outdoor activities 258–61 Parler, Ivan 164 Ptolemy 81
Ozalj 177 Parliament Building (Zagreb) 161, Pučišća (Brač) 127
164 Pula (Pola) 14, 35, 51, 62–5
P Pašman 99 airport 279
Package holidays 275, 276 Passports 264 Amphitheatre 51, 64–5, 86–7,
Padovanino 66 Patsch, Karl 136 255, 257
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) Paul, King 44 festivals 28, 29
115 Pavelić, Ante 44 hotels 227
Pag 104–5 Pazin 66–7 map 63
hotels 229 Pejačević, Dora 201 restaurants 239
map 104–5 Pelješac Peninsula 137 Punat festivals 31
restaurants 243 Pellegrino of San Daniele 139 Putto (Verrocchio) 167
Pag Art Festival 30 Pensions 224
Pag Carnival 29 People’s Peasant Party 43, 44 Q
Pakleni Islands 133 People’s Square (Split) 121 Quadrio, Antonio 165
Paklenica National Park 23, People’s Square (Zadar) 94
103 Peristyle (Spilt) 120 R
Palaces Personal safety 268–9 Rab 14, 15, 83, 84–5
Archbishop’s Palace (Zagreb) Petar Krešimir IV, King 38, 39, 108 festivals 28, 29
158–9 Petretić, Petar, Bishop 158 hotels 227
Bishop’s Palace (Križevci) 219 Petrol stations 277 map 85
Čipiko Palace (Trogir) 116 Pets, travel documents 264 restaurants 239–40
Count’s Palace (Šibenik) 108 Pharmacies 268–9 Rabac 67
Hektorović Palace (Hvar) 132 Phones 272, 273 hotels 227
Palace of Diocletian (Split) 49, 120, Phrase book 295–6 Rabuzin, Ivan 165
122–3 Pićan 67 On the hills - rainforest 165
Prince’s Palace (Rab) 84 Picnics 233 Račić, Josip 168
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) 12, Pietro di Giovanni 153 Rački, Mirko 168, 218
146, 151 Pijade, Moša 210 Radauš, Vanja 159, 169
Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik) 27, Pile Gate (Dubrovnik) 148 Radić, Antun 43
147, 150–51 Pincino, Lorenzo 115 Radić, Stjepan 43, 44
Stafileo Palace (Trogir) 114 Piškera 101 Radio 273
Viceroy’s Palace (Zagreb) 160, Pittoni, Giovanni Battista 105 Radovan, Master 24, 114
164 Pizzerias 232–3 Ragusa 40
Vojković-Oršić Palace (Zagreb) 27 Plague Column (Osijek) 196 see also Dubrovnik
Palatium (Mljet) 142 Plančić, Juraj 130 Ragusino, Antonio 150
Palma il Giovane Pliny the Elder 152 Ragusino, Niccolò 152
Baška 81 Plisko Polje (Vis) 129 Railways see Trains
Cathedral of St Anastasia (Zadar) Plitvice Lakes National Park 14, 23, Rainfall 30
96 48, 50, 88–9 Ranger, Ivan 25, 210
Cathedral of St Lawrence (Trogir) hotels 227 Krapina 211
115 Ploče Gate (Dubrovnik) 147, 148 Lepoglava 210
Cathedral of St Stephen (Hvar) 132 Plomin 68 St Jerome (Štrigova) 209
Church of the Annunciation Pola see Pula St John the Baptist (Varaždin)
(Svetvinčenat) 66 Police 268, 269 207
Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 56 registering with 264 St Mary of the Snows (Belec) 217
290 GENERAL INDEX
Rapallo, Treaty of (1920) 44, 94 St Mark’s Square (Zagreb) 48 Slavenski, Josip 208
Raphael 151Rapska fjera (Rab) 29 St Mark’s Tower (Trogir) 117 Slavonia and Baranja 185–201
Rašica176 St Martin’s Day 31 food and drink 235
Ratkaj family 214 St Roch’s Day 30 history 38, 39, 45
Razmilović, Bone 125 St Sebastian (Carpaccio) 171 hotels 231
Rector’s Palace (Dubrovnik) 12, St Theodore’s Day 29 Kopački Rit Nature Park 198–9
146, 151 St Vincenca’s Day 28 map 186–7
Regatta Rovinj-Pesaro-Rovinj 28 St Vincent’s Day (Međimurje) 31 restaurants 247–8
Reiffenberg, Baron 54 St Vitus, Mount (Brač) 127 Slavonski Brod 186, 189
Religion 21 Sali (Dugi Otok) 98 festivals 28–9
Renaissance architecture 27 Salona 35, 36, 118–19 restaurants 248
Rendić, Ivan 131, 169 map 119 Slavs 36–7
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste Salt trade 102 Smajić, Petar 165, 193
The Bather 166 Samobor 176 Smoking 265
Rescue services 269 hotels 231 Snakes 269
Responsible tourism 267 restaurants 247 Soardo Bembo family 59
Restaurants 232–49 Sanmicheli, Michele 94, 108, 109 Sobota, Giovanni 117
Central Croatia 247 Santacroce, Francesco da 133 Sokolić, Dorijan 82
Dalmatia 240–45 Santacroce, Girolamo da 81 Šolta 13, 126
Istria and the Kvarner area 238–40 All Saints’ Church (Blato) 140 hotels 229
Northern Counties 248–9 Our Lady of Grace (Split) 125 Souvenirs 251–2
Slavonia and Baranja 247–8 St Mary of Spilica (Lopud) 153 Spas 261
tipping 265 Saplunara (Mljet) 143 Bizovačke Toplice 200
Zagreb 245–7 Šarengrad 192 Daruvar 188
see also Food and drink Sava, River 23, 175, 180, 186, 190 Lipik 188
Resurrection of Lazarus (Meštrović) Scamozzi, Vincenzo 66 Romans 35
163 Scarpa, Iginio 69 Thermal Spas tour 216–17
Ribar, Dr Ivan 162 Schmidt, Friedrich von 158, 190 Varaždinske Toplice 217
Rijeka 72–3 Scipio, Publius Cornelius 104 Special needs travellers 265, 267
airport 279 Scipio Nasica, Publius 34 Spirits 236
festivals 28, 31 Scordisci 33, 34 Špišić Bukovica
hotels 227 Sculpture 24 hotels 231
map 73 Sea Gate (Trogir) 117 Split 13, 15, 21, 26, 120–25
morčić jewellery 252 Sea Gate (Zadar) 94 airport 274–5, 279
restaurants 240 Sea Organ (Zadar) 96 festivals 29
Risnjak National Park 23 Seitz, Ljudevit 190 hotels 229–30
Leska Trail 76–7 Seitz, Maksimilijan 190 map 121
Roads see Cars Self-catering 233 markets 250–51
Robba, Francesco 165, 217, 219 Seljan, Mirko 167 Palace of Diocletian 120, 122–3
Roč 71 Seljan, Stevo 167 restaurants 243–4
Rodin, Auguste 163 Sellaio, Jacopo del Sponza Palace (Dubrovnik) 27, 147,
Roksandić, Simeon 165 Virgin Mary with Jesus, John 150–51
Romanesque architecture 26 and an Angel 171 Sports 256–7, 258–61
Romans 34–6, 51 Senj 82–3 Spring in Croatia 28
Palace of Diocletian (Split) 120, Sergia, Salvia Postuma 62 Square of the Loggia (Dubrovnik)
122–3 Seven Castles (Split) 125 150
Roman amphitheatre (Pula) 51, Severus, Septimus, Emperor 34 Stafileo Palace (Trogir) 114
64–5, 255, 257 Shopping 250–53 Stari Grad (Hvar) 130–31
Roman Arch (Rijeka) 72 Shrine of Our Lady of Trsat (Rijeka) Stari Grad Plain (Hvar) 23
Salona 118–19 73 Stepinac, Alojzije, Cardinal 158, 210
Romualdo, St 58 Shrovetide Sezona (Kraljevica) 31 Stjepan, Ban of Bosnia 142
Romulus Augustus, Emperor 36 Šibenik 15, 108–11 Stolnik, Slavko 165
Rosa, Salvator 115 Cathedral of St James 110–11 Stomorska (Šolta) 126
Rosandić, Toma 126 festivals 29 Ston 137
Roški Slap 107 hotels 229 hotels 230
Rösner, Karl 190 map109 restaurants 244
Rottman, Franjo 159 restaurants 243 Stone, Dalmatian 140
Rovinj (Rovigno) 14, 58 Sigismund, King 219 Stone Gate (Zagreb) 159, 161
festivals 28 Sigismund of Austria 210 Storks 23, 198
hotels 227–8 Silver Gate (Split) 120 Stradun (Dubrovnik) 12, 150
restaurants 240 Simeon, St 94 Straub, Filip Jacob 211
Rufus, Quintus Minucius 34 Sinj 113 Štrigova 209
festivals 30 Strossmayer, Josip Juraj, Bishop 43,
S Sinjska Alka (Sinj) 30, 113 170, 190
Safety 268–9 Šipan 153 Strozzi, Bernardo 75
Sailing 258–9, 261 Šipanska Luka 153 Stubičke Toplice 216
Kornati Islands 101 Sisak 178 Student travellers 224
St Augustine and St Benedict (Bellini) restaurants 247 Šubić, Stjepan 83
171 Skradin 106 Šubić-Zrinski dynasty 81, 181
St George’s Castle (Split) 125 Skradinski Buk 106 Šubićevac Fort (Šibenik) 109
St George’s Day 28 Škrip (Brač) 127 Sućuraj (Hvar) 131
St Mark’s Festival (Zagreb) 28 Skurjeni, Matija 165 Suđurađ 153
GENERAL INDEX 291
Šulentić, Zlatko 179 Tower of Lotrščak (Zagreb) 12, United Nations 19, 45, 140, 185
Suleyman II the Magnificent, Sultan 160, 165 Urban V, Pope 73
40, 41, 196 Town Hall (Rijeka) 72 Uskoks 83
Sumartin (Brač) 127 Town Hall (Trogir) 116 Ustaše 44
Summer Carnival (Novi Vinodolski) The Town’s Day (Lipik) 31
29 The Town’s Day (Osijek) 31 V
Summer in Croatia 28–30 Traditional handicrafts 251–2 Valdec, Rudolf 27, 167
Summer Festival (Hvar) 29 Traditions and customs 20–21 Valens, Emperor 34, 191
Summer of Margherita (Bakar) 29 Traffic information 278 Valentinian, Emperor 34, 191
Šunj 153 Trail of Glagolitic Documents 71 Valle see Bale
Sunshine 29 Trains 275, 276, 278 Valpovo 200
Supetar (Brač) 126 Trakošćan 210–11, 212–13 Varaždin 206–7
Susak 75 hotels 231 festivals 30
Susanna and the Elders 170 restaurants 249 history 38–9
Sutinske Toplice 216 Trams in Zagreb 280–81 hotels 231
Sveti Križ Začretje Travel 274–81 map 207
restaurants 249 air 274–5, 276, 277, 279 restaurants 249
Svetvinčenat 66 buses 278, 279 Varaždin Castle 205, 206
Svršata 101 cars 275, 277–8 Varaždinske Toplice 217
Central Croatia 174 VAT refunds 250
T coaches 275, 276, 278–9 Vecchia, Gasparo della 54
Tasca, Cristoforo 80 Dalmatia 92 Vecchietti, Emilio 151
Taverns 232 ferries 276, 279 Večenaj, Ivan 25, 165
Tax refunds 250 Istria and Kvarner area 52 Vegetarian food 233
Taxis Northern Counties 205 Vela Luka 140
tipping 265 Slavonia and Baranja 187 Vela Ploča (Kornat) 101
in Zagreb 281 trains 275, 276, 278 Velebit mountains 23, 103
Tea 236 Zagreb 157, 280–81 Veli Brijun 60–61
Telašćica Nature Park 98, 100 Trbuljak, Goran 169 Veli Lošinj 75
Telephones 272, 273 Trees 22 Veliki Tabor 204, 214
Television 273 Trka na prstenac (Barban) 30 restaurants 249
Temperatures 31 Trogir 15, 114–17 Veliko Jezero (Mljet) 142
Templar Knights see Knights hotels 230 Venantius, St 118
Templar map 115 Veneziano, Paolo 25
Temple of Augustus (Pula) 62 restaurants 244 Cathedral of St Mary (Rab) 84
Tennis 261 Trogiranin, Blaž Juriev 124 Convent and Church of St Justine
Terme Jezerčica 216 Trogiranin, Petar 84 (Rab) 85
Terme Tuhelj 216 Trpimir, Prince 38 Diocesan Museum (Krk) 80
Teuta, Queen 34 Trsat Castle (Rijeka) 73 Dominican Monastery (Dubrovnik)
Theatre 254, 257 Trsteno 12, 152 152
Theft 268 Tuđman, Franjo 45, 210 St Blaise (Vodnjan) 59
Theodosius the Great, Emperor 36 Tuheljske Toplice Venice 38, 39, 40, 41, 51, 181
Thermal spas see Spas hotels 231 Ventura, Jurai 59
Thurn and Taxis family 177 Turkalj, Juri 169 Veronese, Paolo 131, 167
Tiberius, Emperor 34, 35 Turks 40, 41 Verrocchio, Andrea del
Tickets Trvđa (Osijek) Putto 167
buses and trams (Zagreb) 280–81 Street-by-Street map 196–7 Vespasian, Emperor 64, 136
entertainment 254 Tvrdalj (Stari Grad, Hvar) 130, 131 Vicentino, Andrea 39
Ticks 269 Twin Gate (Pula) 63 Viceroy’s Palace (Zagreb) 160,
Ties, shopping 252–3 164
Time zone 267 U Vid 136
Timotej, Bishop of Zagreb 158, 180 Uberti, Domenico 132 Vidov, Grgur 115
Tintoretto 127, 131, 138 Ugljan 98 Vienna, Congress of (1815) 42
Tipping 265 Ujević, Tin 124 Villa Angiolina (Opatija) 69
Tišov, Ivan 165, 219 Uluz Ali 131 Villa Stay (Rijeka Dubrovačka) 152
Titian 139, 151, 152, 206 Umag (Umago) 54 Vinagora 214
Tito, Josip, Marshal 44–5 hotels 228 Vincenca, St 139, 140
birthplace 214 restaurants 240 Vincent od Kastva 25
Brijuni Islands 60, 61 UNESCO (culture and science) Dance of Death 25
Lepoglava 210 lacemaking 210, 251 Vineyards, Dalmatia 135
Ogulin 178 Lepoglava 210 Velebit Vinica 209
Vis 128, 129 mountains 23, 103 Vinkovačke Jeseni (Vinkovci) 30
Tkon (Pašman) 99 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Vinkovci 191
Toma, Archdeacon of Split 123, 124 Ager (Hvar) 131 festivals 30
Tomislav, King 38, 168 Dubrovnik 92, 148 Vinodol Codex 82
Tomislav Square (Varaždin) 206 Euphrasian Basilica (Poreč) 56–7 Virgin Mary with Jesus, John and an
Topolje 193 Franciscan Monastery (Hvar) 133 Angel (Sellaio) 171
Topusko Toplice 178 Plitvice Lakes National Park Virgin with Child and St Francis and
Tourist offices 265, 267 88–9 St Bernardine of Siena (Caporali)
Tours by car Stari Grad Plain (Hvar) 23 170
Fortified Towns 70–71 Trogir 114 Virius, Mirko 25, 165
Thermal Spas 216–17 Unije 75 Virovitica 186, 201
292 GENERAL INDEX
Acknowledgments
Fabio Ratti Editoria would like to thank the following Special Thanks
staff at Dorling Kindersley: Croatian National Tourist Board, Zagreb, in particular the
director Niko Bulić; Croatian National Tourist Board, Milan, in
Map Coordinator particular the director Klaudio Stojnic and the public
Dave Pugh. relations manager Božidarka Boza Gligorijević; the regional
and local tourist boards of Croatia; Vinko Bakija (director of
Senior DTP Manager the tourist office, Supetar, island of Brač); Zdravko Banović
Jason Little. (tourist office, Split); Daniela Barac (tourist guide in
Crikvenica); Nikša Bender (marketing manager of the tourist
Publishing Manager office of Dubrovnik); Maja Boban (tourist guide of the
Anna Streiffert. environs of Zagreb); Ankita Boksic Franchini (tourist office,
Split); Tanja Bunjevac (tourist office, Varaždin) Rujana Bušić
Managing Art Editor (tourist guide in Vinkovci); Vanja Dadić (tourist guide in
Marisa Renzullo. Šibenik); Mirjana Darrer (public relations manager of the
tourist office in Dubrovnik); Marchese Doimo Frangipane
Publisher di Aiello del Friuli; Danijela Duić (tourist guide in Karlovac);
Douglas Amrine. Jurica Dužević (director of the tourist office in Stari Grad,
island of Hvar); Daniela Fanikutić (tourist office, Poreč); Ennio
Dorling Kindersley would also like to thank all those Forlani (director of the tourist office of Vodnjan); Vesna
whose contribution and assistance have made the Gamulin (tourist guide in Dubrovnik); Miljenko Gašparac
preparation of this book possible. (guard of the Risnjak National Park); Boris Gržina (front office
manager of the Hotel Esplanade in Zagreb); Vesna Habazin
Principal Author and Snježana Hrupelj (tourist guides in the area of the
Leandro Zoppè was born in Venice and graduated in thermal spas); Mladenka Jarac-Rončević (Croatian Consul
Political Science from Padua University. At present he lives in Italy); Zoran Jelaska (tourist guide in Split); Vesna Jovičić
in Milan where, as a historian, he works as a freelance (tourist guide in Pula); Darko Kovačić (tourist guide in the
journalist and writer of tour guides and historical, artistic Lonjsko Polje Nature Park); Darko Kovačić (director of the
or naturalistic books. tourist office, Omiš); Stanka Kraljević (director of the tourist
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Contributors Krapina); Tonći Lalić (tourist guide in Makarska); Damir
Božidarka Boza Gligorijević, Public Relations Manager Macanić (director of the tourist office in Osijek); Damir
for the Croatian National Tourist Board in Milan; Graeme Mihalić (tourist office, Varaždinske Toplice); Josip Mikolčić
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Zagreb); Smiljan Mitrović (tourist guide in Zadar); Franjo
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Phrase Book
Pronounciation straighton ravno ravnoh
c – “ts” as in rats near blizu bleezoo
č – “chi” as in church far daleko dalekoh
ć – “t” is a soft t up gore gorey
đ – “d” is a soft d down dolje dolyey
g – “g” is a hard g as in get early rano ranoh
j – “y” as in yes late kasno kasnoh
š – sh entrance ulaz oolaz
Ž – shown here as “zh”, sounds like the “J” in the French exit izlaz eezlaz
name, Jacques toilet WC Veytsey
“aj” – shown here as “igh”, sounds like “I” or the “igh” in night. more više veeshey
less manje manyey
In Emergency
Help! Pomoć! pomoch Shopping
Stop! Stani! stahnee How much Koliko ovo kolikoh ovoh
Call a doctor! Zovite doktora! zoveetey does this cost? košta? koshta
doktorah I would like… Volio bih… volioh bee…
Call an Zovite hitnu pomoć! zoveetey heetnoo Do you have…? Imate li…? eematey lee…
ambulance! pomoch I’m just looking Samo gledam Samoh gledam
Call the police! Zovite policiju! zoveetey Do you take Primate li preematey lee
poleetseeyoo credit cards? kreditne kartice? credeetney
Call the Zovite vatrogasce! zoveetey carteetsey
fire brigade! vatrohgastsay What time do Kad otvarate? kad otvaratey
Where is the Gdje je gdyey yey n-igh- you open?
nearest najbliži telefon? bleezhee telefon What time do Kad zatvarate? kad zatvaratey
telephone? you close?
Where is the Gdje je gdyey yey n-igh- This one Ovaj ov-igh
nearest hospital? najbliža bolnica? bleezhah That one Onaj on-igh
bolnitsa expensive skupo skoopoh
Communication Essentials cheap jeftino yefteenoh
Yes da dah size (clothes) veličina veleechinah
No ne ney size (shoes) broj broy
Please molim vas moleem vas white bijelo beeyeloh
Thank you hvala hvahlah black crno tsrnoh
Excuse me oprostite oprosteetey red crveno tsrvenoh
Hello dobar dan dobar dan yellow žuto zhootoh
Goodbye dovidenja doveedjenya green zeleno zelenoh
Goodnight laku noc lakoo noch blue plavo plavoh
Morning jutro yootroh bakery pekara pekarah
Afternoon popodne popodney bank banka bankah
Evening večer vecher books hop knjižara knyeezharah
Yesterday jučer yoocher butcher’s mesnica mesnitsah
Today danas danas cakes hop slastičarna slasteecharnah
Tomorrow sutra sootrah chemist’s apoteka apohtekah
Here tu too fishmonger’s ribarnica reebarnitsah
There tamo tahmoh market tržnica trzhneetsah
What? što? shtoh hair dresser’s frizer freezer
When? kada? kada news agent’s/ trafika trafeekah
Why? zašto? zashtoh tobacconist
Where? gdje? gdyey post office pošta poshtah
shoe shop prodavaonica prodavaonitsa
Useful Phrases cipela tseepelah
How are you? Kako ste? kakoh stey supermarket supermarket soopermarket
Very well, thank you Dobro, hvala dobroh, hvahlah travel agent putnička pootneechka
Pleased to meet you Drago mi je! dragoh mee yey agencija agentseeyah
See you soon Vidimo se veedeemoh sey Sightseeing
That’s fine U redu oo redoo
Where is/are…? Gdje je/su? gdyey yey/soo art gallery galerija galereeyah
How far is it to…? Koliko je kolikoh yey umjetnina oomyetneenah
daleko do…? dalekoh doh… cathedral katedrala katedralah
How can I get to…? Kako mogu kakoh mogoo church crkva tsrkvah
doći do…? dochee doh… garden vrt vurt
Do you speak Govorite li govoreetey library knjižnica knyeezhneetsah
English? engleski? lee engleskee museum muzej moozey
I don’t understand Ne razumijem nay razoomeeyem tourist turistički ured tooreesteechkey
Could you speak Molim vas, moleem vas, information centre oored
more slowly please? možete li govoriti mozhetey lee town hall gradska vijećnica gradskah
sporije? govoreetee veeyechneetsa
sporiyey closed for holiday zatvoreno zatvorenoh zbog
I’m sorry Žao mi je zhaoh mee yey zbog praznika prazneekah
bus station autobusni aootoboosnee
Useful Words kolodvor kolodvor
railway station željeznički zhelyeznichkih
big veliko veleekoh
kolodvor kolodvor
small malo mahloh
hot vruć vrooch Staying in a Hotel
cold hladan hlahdan
good dobar dobar Do you have Imate li sobu? eematey lee soboo
bad loš losh a vacant room?
enough dosta dostah double room dvokrevetna soba dvokrevetnah sobah
well dobro dobroh single room jednokrevetna yednokrevetnah
open otvoreno otvohrenoh soba sobah
closed zatvoreno zatvohrenoh room with a bath soba sa sobah sah
left lijevo leeyevoh kupatilom koopateelom
right desno desnoh shower tuš toosh
296 phrasebook