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Chakzampa PDF
The Centre for Bhutan Studies has received a letter from Tenzin Chhophag, the
12th Chagzampa, in December 2007.
The letter states that he (Tenzin Chhophag) has been recognized as the 12th
Chagzampa by His Holiness Dalai Lama, Dilgo Khyentse Rimpoche, Mingling
Trichen Rimpoche and Sakya Tridzin Rimpoche.
The letter went on to state that in a book (Chagzampa Thangtong Gyalpo – Architect,
Philosopher and Iron Chain Bridge Builder by Manfred Gerner), the Centre for
Bhutan Studies has documented Thangtong Gyalpo’s lineage up to the 17th
incarnation.
First, it has been written that the Late Dilgo Khyentse Rimpoche and Kalu
Rimpoche have indicated that Sangay Choedzin, currently the Lama of the
Zilukha Nunnery, as the 17th Thangtong Gyalpo, and suggested that the
boy must be recognized by Sakya Tridzin.
Second, it has been written that Dalai Lama and Sakya Tridzin have
recognized Sangay Choedzin as the 17th Thangtong Gyalpo.
The letter questioned the source of information the Centre has used and
suggested further investigation. It demanded that the Centre, which is
responsible for printing and distribution [the book], should provide answers to
the doubts raised above.
Signed by
Tenzin Chhophag
The Centre for Bhutan Studies would like to clarify that Chagzampa Thangtong
Gyalpo – Architect, Philosopher and Iron Chain Bridge Builder was written by
Manfred Gerner in German and translated into English by Gregor Verhufen. The
Centre has published the book for the benefits of the Bhutanese reading public
since there is limited information on this important Buddhist saint. The Centre is
mainly interested with the book, like any other Bhutanese readers, as a rich social
document, not for its documentation of who is and who is not the 12th or 17th
reincarnation of Thangtong Gyalpo.
We also would like to clarify that CBS has played no role either in its research or
in selecting sources.
One of the Centre’s mandates is to generate and disseminate information freely
to the Bhutanese through research and publication, and publication of the above
book is one effort in fulfilling the mandate.
Thank you.
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Architect, Philosopher and Iron Chain Bridge Builder
Manfred Gerner
Translated from German by Gregor Verhufen
The Centre for Bhutan Studies PO Box No. 1111 Thimphu, Bhutan
http://www.bhutanstudies.org.bt
ISBN 99936-14-39-4
Cover photo: Statue of Drupthob Thangtong Gyalpo, believed to have been made by Drupthob
himself, is housed in a private lhakhang of Tsheringmo, Pangkhar village, Ura, Bumthang.
Photo by Karma Ura, 2007.
Preface ...................................................................................... i
I. Biographical notes on Thangtong Gyalpo ...................... 1
The King of the Empty Plains .............................................................. 1
Tibet of his times.................................................................................... 6
Thangtong Gyalpo’s journeys to Bhutan ........................................... 9
Fragments from his life’s work.......................................................... 13
Incarnation lineage.............................................................................. 15
Buchung Gyalwa Zangpo................................................................... 18
The representations of Thangtong Gyalpo ...................................... 24
II Thangtong Gyalpo as an Architect and Blacksmith. 34
Dungtsi Lhakhang in Paro ................................................................. 35
Chung Riwoche ................................................................................... 39
Production of iron and steel............................................................... 44
III. Bridges in the Himalayas ............................................. 52
Development of methods to cross rivers and gorges ..................... 52
Ice and snow bridges .......................................................................... 53
Rafts and inflated animal skins .......................................................... 53
Boats................................................................................................... 53
Stone slab bridges............................................................................... 54
Girder bridges from round and squared timber trunks ...................... 54
Single rope bridges ............................................................................. 55
Ropes made from yak skin .................................................................. 56
Suspension bridges from plant fibres ................................................. 57
Bamboo arch bridges........................................................................... 59
Steel cables with hoops ....................................................................... 60
Wooden cantilever bridges ................................................................. 62
Iron chain suspension bridges ............................................................ 64
Suspension bridges............................................................................. 66
Bailey bridges ..................................................................................... 66
Concrete bridges ................................................................................. 67
Arch bridges ....................................................................................... 67
Steel truss bridges .............................................................................. 68
Bridges, ferries and boats made by Thangtong Gyalpo................. 69
Iron chain suspension bridges in the Himalayas ............................ 70
Tibet....................................................................................................... 73
Chung Riwoche Chakzam .................................................................. 73
Bridge technology................................................................................ 74
Phuntsholing Chakzam ...................................................................... 77
Rinchen Chakzam............................................................................... 79
Tholing Chakzam ............................................................................... 81
Riwoche Chakzam .............................................................................. 83
Panding Chakzam .............................................................................. 84
Chakzam.......................................................................................... 86
Nyango Druka Chakzam.................................................................... 93
Rinchen Ding Chakzam ..................................................................... 94
China and Tibet ................................................................................... 94
Luding Chakzam ................................................................................ 94
Bhutan ................................................................................................... 96
Tamchog Chakzam ............................................................................. 99
Doksum Chakzam............................................................................. 102
Dangme Chakzam ............................................................................ 104
Khoma Chakzam............................................................................... 104
Tashigang Chakzam ......................................................................... 106
Chaze Chakzam ................................................................................ 107
Changchi Chakzam........................................................................... 108
Chukha Chakzam.............................................................................. 109
Lumbolang Chakzam........................................................................ 112
Chuzom Chakzam............................................................................. 112
Wangdi Chakzam ............................................................................. 112
Nepal ................................................................................................... 114
IV Thangtong Gyalpo’s Iron Chain Bridge and Their
Influence in Europe ........................................................... 120
Bibliography ....................................................................... 140
PREFACE
i
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
ii
Preface
iii
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
It seems that at the vital beginning and at the end of the work,
legend and miracles dominate. In the core of the work an
amount of detailed and practical information is given, which
helps to identify his work (of the divine person; the author)
reliably.
1
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
4
Biographical Notes
9 Gyatso 1980, p.113. The contents of the citation make clear that
for Thangtong Gyalpo, Mahāsiddha and suspension bridge builder
were not two separate occupations, but that one conditioned the
other, from the methodical beginning of the spreading of the
teachings as well as from the teachings of Avalokiteśvara.
5
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
1417 Sera (Se ra Theg chen gling), the Court of the Wild
Roses
1447 Tashi Lhünpo (bKra shis Lhun po), the Lucky Mound
Fig. 3: Larger than life size statue of Thangtong Gyalpo next to the entrance of
the Dukhang at Samye, the oldest monastery of Tibet.
7
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
8
Biographical Notes
Rnam thar gsal ba’i sgron me says that Thang stong rgyal po’s
[...] religious activities took ten forms. What were they?
Building temples as a symbol of the (Buddha-) body; printing
scriptures as a symbol of the speech; building stupas as a
symbol of the mind; building bridges for the sake of all beings;
and saving individual lives. These were the five major forms.
Uninterrupted daily offerings at the temples; the
uninterrupted sound of reading the scriptures; uninterrupted
circumambulations of the stupa; non-stop building of bridges
and sparing life without interruption were the five minor
forms. Thus his ten powerful forms filled the world.11
11Tsering, T. 2001, p.43. Tashi Tsering with the citation from the
biography depicts a whole spiritual persona with a few facts.
9
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 4 & 5: Like many other masters, Thangtong Gyalpo began his work in
Bhutan at the Palphug meditation cave of Taktshang in the Paro valley.
Fig. 6: Dzong Drak Gonpa near Bongdey where Thangtong Gyalpo built one of
his chörtens in Bhutan.
11
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
The place to this day shows very red, ferrous rock. Here as
well as a few kilometres farther downstream, Thangtong
Gyalpo is supposed to have built yet another iron chain
bridge.
The bridge building master continued his journey to the east,
first to Thimphu and then in the direction of Punakha. Close
to Wangdi Phodrang, he is said to have built the Badong
Lhakhang. There a lama also donated 250 pieces of iron to
him for another iron chain bridge, probably the bridge of
Wangdi Phodrang, which was substituted in 1684 with a
cantilever bridge. Finally, moving further to the east, he built
another big temple of Shar Chitog Khar. From hence,
Thangtong Gyalpo’s tracks are lost for some time. However,
his biography records that he built many bridges, chörtens
and lhakhangs in Bhutan to stabilise the teachings of the
Buddha. In the course of time, these monuments were
assigned local names, which make the identification difficult
in the present time.
12
Biographical Notes
1. Thangthong Gyalpo
2. Char Thukchan
3. Ja-Kangpa
4. Jatangpa Nering Sonam
5. Jatangpa Nering Chodpa
6. Nering Jatangpa
7. Jatangpa Phuntshog (1738-1790)
8. Jatangpa Yontenpal
9. Jatangpa Oewapal
10. Ngedon Nyingpo
11. Khyentse Wangpo
12. Dewai Dorje
13. Jatangpa Zhabkar Tshogdrug Rangdrol
14. Jatangpa Ri-ul Lama
15. Jatangpa Sulmang Chodgyan
16. Drupai Wangchuk Chenpo Rikey Jadral
17. Ngawang Thinley Lhundrub, born in 1990.18
19Ibid. p.2.
20 Ngagwang Thinley Lhundrub has the charisma of a great
personality already at 14 years. He met the author not as a child or
youngster but with restraint and great seriousness.
17
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
18
Biographical Notes
20
Biographical Notes
Fig. 9: The altar (mchod shoms) for Thangtong Gyalpo, his son and Chökyong
(chos skyong) in the Choetsi Lhakhang in the Paro valley.
23Robert Dompnier, like the author, has travelled to the most remote
places of Bhutan.
21
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
the lap. The figure does not sit crossed legged nor on a double
lotus throne, but on a simple piece of cloth. When thousands
of Thangtong Gyalpo representations follow precisely the
same iconography, however, for the figure in Merak, there are
only two interpretations: Either Thangtong Gyalpo is
represented in his youthful years or it may be a
representation of his son, Buchung Gyalwa Zangpo.
Fig. 10: Statue of Thangtong Gyalpo or his son Buchung Gyalwa Zangpo in
Merak. Photo: Robert Dompnier
22
Biographical Notes
Rapten 2001. Rapten’s report for the Centre for Bhutan Studies as
26
27 Kuensel 2005. In the issue from the 6th April, 2005 of the Kuensel,
the Bhutanese weekly paper, the blessing is expressly appreciated
and a large photo showing the numerous pilgrims and believers is
added.
28 Schumann 1986, p.365.
25
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 11: Typical illustration of Thangtong Gyalpo on a block print. Source:
Schumann 1986
26
Biographical Notes
bum pa, skr.: Amṛtakalaśa) placed inside the bowl. The right
hand, which is almost in the ‘earth-touching’ gesture lies on
top of the knee. Finally, a piece of chain, mostly five chain
links may be seen in his right hand. Only in the small
sculpture, which is located in Merak, is he shown as a young
man, holding five chain links high above his head.
27
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 12: Wall painting of Thangtong Gyalpo at the Gyantse hotel in Tibet
28
Biographical Notes
29
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 13: Head of Thangtong Gyalpo inside the Drubthop Lhakhang at the
Chagpori in Lhasa.
30
Biographical Notes
Fig. 14: Thangtong Gyalpo at the Thangtong Dewachen Lhakhang in Zilukha,
Thimphu.
32
Biographical Notes
Fig. 15: The highly revered statue of Thangtong Gyalpo inside the temple at the
Drangme Chhu near Tashigang.
33
II THANGTONG GYALPO AS AN ARCHITECT AND
BLACKSMITH
34
As an Architect and Blacksmith
35
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Towards the eastern side of the ground floor (to the left of
entrance) on the inside of the outer walls among others (only
the well-known and important deities are mentioned) the
Buddhas, the Bodhisattvas, Pälden Lhamo, Mahākala and the
heavenly palace of Zangdog Pelri are represented. At the
southern wall, we find Buddha, Padmasambhava and
Amitāyus. As for the western wall, Avalokiteśvara and other
Bodhisattvas are depicted. On the northern face, the great
masters of the Kagyüpa School along with Thangtong Gyalpo
are represented. At the mortar-built internal square outside
the eastern wall bear ten wrathful deities with a repeat of
Thangtong Gyalpo. At the southern wall apart from the
Buddhas and Lamas, 16 Arhats are depicted. The western
wall depict dharma-protectors along with the 21 Tārās and on
the northern face beside portraying high Kagyüpa Lamas, a 4-
armed and a 6-armed Mahākala are also illustrated. If one
36
As an Architect and Blacksmith
proceeds through the door of the outer wall, one meets the 35
Confession Buddhas and on the shaft of the internal column
bears 21 forms of Avalokiteśvara30
Fig. 16: The Dungtsi Lhakhang: The philosophy of Mahāyāna Buddhism realised
in a building.
38
As an Architect and Blacksmith
Fig. 17: Thangtong Gyalpo’s masterpiece, the Kumbum Chörten at Chung
Riwoche, Tibet.
40
As an Architect and Blacksmith
41
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
43
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 18: Wall painting of the Kumbum Chörten at Chung Riwoche, partly
destroyed during the Cultural Revolution.
44
As an Architect and Blacksmith
The details on the iron ore locations and the export to Tibet
by Thangtong Gyalpo differ a lot. According to sources, 18
different places are identified, where iron was melted and
forged. Others speak of 1084 ‘plumbs’ of iron that Thangtong
Gyalpo was supposed to have brought across the border to
Fig. 19: Detail of the investigation illustrations of the ETH Zürich, Switzerland.
Source: Epprecht 1979.
47
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
48
As an Architect and Blacksmith
Fig. 20: Original iron chains of Thangtong Gyalpo without any corrosion even
after 555 years.
50
As an Architect and Blacksmith
Since 1200 BC, the production and forging of iron was known
in China. One must assume that at least smaller bridges or
footbridges made from iron chains were already in existence
before Thangtong Gyalpo.
52
Bridges in the Himalayas
54
Bridges in the Himalayas
Fig. 21: Difficult gorge crossing on a single rope bridge. Source: Aris, 1982.
Father M. Huc saw on his trips to Tartary i.e. Tibet and China
from 1840 to 1846 a bridge made from ropes, which were
plaited out of yak skin leather. Huc comments:
As we were passing the Ya-Loung-Kiang in a boat, a shepherd
crossed the same river on a bridge merely composed of a thick
rope of yak skin tightly stretched from one bank to the other.
A solid strap to a moveable pulley on the rope suspended a
sort of wooden stirrup. The shepherd had only to place
himself backwards, under this strange bridge, with his feet on
the stirrup, and hold on to the rope with both his hands; he
then pulled the rope gently; the mere weight of his body made
the pulley move, and he reached the other side in a very short
time. These bridges are very common in Thibet, and are very
convenient for crossing torrents and precipices; but one must
be accustomed to them.42
Suspension bridges from plant fibres
In Bhutan as well as in Zanskar and Lahoul, elegant
suspension bridges were built with a span reaching up to 40
metres. Karma Ura describes bridges of the semitropical
areas of Bhutan made from reed and climbers, consisting of
slope ropes and the walking layer fastened to it. The railing is
made from twisted mats. The ropes are partially strengthened
with wood and both supports were fastened with wooden
constructions.43
58
Bridges in the Himalayas
Fig. 22: The author in 1975, on a bridge made from willow tree branches in
Ladakh.
During his travel from 1979 and 1980 in Zanskar, the author
saw a bridges in use made from willow-tree branches. One
such is the Zangla bridge across the Zanskar river and
another is found across the Lingti Chhu at Char. These
bridges had spans up to forty metres and are made of six to
nine centimetre thick willow rope bundles with approximately
fifteen centimetres in diameter. Together, these ropes were
connected with thin pasture ropes again. Such bridges could
be used by two to three people and swayed strongly in both
directions. The packing animals could not use this bridge, but
had to cross the rivers by swimming. The disadvantage of all
rope bridges and bridges made from plant fibres lie in need
for frequent repairs. This signifies a huge amount of work
involved for the inhabitants of a village for many weeks. The
bridge across the Zanskar river with its 40 metres of span
was regarded as one of the longest spanned willow branch
bridges.
Bamboo arch bridges
59
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 23: Crossing the Indus river with a hoop on a steel cable.
From 1976 to 1985, the author had to cross the Indus river in
Ladakh (La dvags) several times, using such bridges.
Similarly, Sven Hedin, while he was wandering through the
Trans-Himalaya in 1906 and 1907, had numerous
adventurous crossings of rivers and gorges by using this kind
of bridges. About a Sutlej crossing, he writes:
Deva Ram gives his sign, the rope carriage starts to glide; I
float beyond the edge and now below me in the depth the
greyish white waves of the river are rolling. An eternity passes.
Why do I not already arrive over there, then? It is only 35
metres. Over there on the heights is my old Tibet. Down there
in the levels is India. My caravan has been torn apart. I myself
float between the sky and the murderous Satledch (Sutlej). I
have investigated this river and have found its original spring.
The discovery cost a sacrifice indeed. I had never had such
respect before the immense majestic river like at this moment,
and all at once I had understanding for the chörten-pyramids
and stone marks of the Tibetans on shores and bridges, those
calls for help against indomitable natural forces and those
lithified prayers to relentless gods. My look falls on the white
boiling gigantic kettle in the abyss down there. How splendid,
how fascinatingly nice. The language owns no words for it; no
master can paint this picture. The vertiginous bird’s-eye view
61
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 24: Horse caravan on the former cantilever bridge across the Paro Chhu
below Taktshang.
66
Bridges in the Himalayas
1993, across the Daina Chhu with a span of 330 metres. For
this a wide spanning Bailey bridge, rail with steel cables
above high steel truss pylons was hung down.
Concrete bridges
Concrete bridges as single field bridges or multiple field
bridges have removed Bailey-bridges in particular. The span
from yoke to yoke can hardly reach 20 metres. These bridges
also admit heavy driving traffic and are already partly two-
lane. The bridges are either prefabricated or made out of
concrete that is produced at the local spot. For the
prefabrication, heavy transport vehicles and lifting devices are
necessary.
Arch bridges
Arch bridges produced through concrete construction
methods, with partly spectacular constructions have been
introduced in the Himalayas in the second half of the 20th
century. In the 50s and 60s, Chinese master builders began
with wide-spanning concrete arches, e.g., with the Gangge
Bridge across the Yarlung Tsangpo or the friendship bridge
between Nepal and Tibet.
67
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
1. Waheyzam, Samtengang
2. Bjizam, Trongsa
3. Chamkharzam, Jakar
4. Kurizampa, Mongar
68
Bridges in the Himalayas
53Aris 1979, p.185. Aris writes: “... This interesting figure is not only
remembered for his many iron chain suspension bridges and boat
ferries, …”
69
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
originally used purely for practical reasons (to make the skin
more imperishable from flaws by dividing the seam), or
whether his origin can actually be related to Thangtong
Gyalpo.54
The fact that some chain bridges fell into the water at their
original place or were dismantled and partly put together by
using chains of different forerunner bridges to new bridges
elsewhere, causes among other things, many difficulties at
the identification and the assignment of the bridges. In this
way, the iron chain bridge at Tashigang in Eastern Bhutan
was destroyed in 1968 by floods and parts of those chains
were reinstated in the bridge at the nearby Doksum. A part of
the chains of this bridge was demolished again in 2005 and
was integrated into a new iron chain bridge at Tamchog,
which was chosen as the place for the building a new one at
the special request of the royal family, as it is strongly
associated with Thangtong Gyalpo. Although, the new bridge
is planned for the site, however, it is very difficult to ascribe
the chains to Thangtong Gyalpo owing to the above reason.
71
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
72
Bridges in the Himalayas
Tibet
In Tibet, at least six iron chain bridges or essential parts have
survived to this day:
73
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Today Chung Riwoche and the bridge lie apart from the big
traffic roads through Tibet and can be reached in a
cumbersome journey from Lhatse even in about six to eight
hours at favourable weather and road conditions.
Fig. 25: The Chung Riwoche Chakzam in front with the Kumbum in the
background.
Bridge technology
The bridge lies in a wide river valley, which does not support
anchoring of chains in the rock, but had to be spanned
across two land pillars, the bridgehead and the stream pillar.
Because of the long span of the left bridge field, Thangtong
Gyalpo used four chains in Chung Riwoche: Two chains with
a little thicker chain links, which carry the walking layer
74
Bridges in the Himalayas
The stream pillar and both land pillars rise about six metres
with a clear gradation of three metres of height above the
normal water level. Stream pillars and land pillars consist of
wackestone from the river that exist in large quantities at the
site and are partly reinforced by strong wood. The stream
pillar owns about 15-metre long breakwater and icebreaker
upstream in the same construction like the pillar itself. The
still original construction shows that one knew how to handle
technically the floodwater strong, waves and even more so,
the ice drifts of the stream current.
In the year 2002, the bridge is still extant but was not
passable anymore, because the cables to the connection of
the chains and the walking layer were missing in each case
on the last metres. The villagers explained to us that since the
establishment of the new bridge, the old bridge was not
maintained anymore. However, as it is associated with the
Mahāsiddha, it is still revered highly: The numerous prayer
flags like the dead black cat hung up nearby the bridgehead
and the remains of a raven testify this fact. The black animals
represent a defence symbol for the people and the bridge.
Phuntsholing Chakzam
The Puntsholing Chakzam (today Pinzoling) across the
Yarlung Tsangpo is about 50 km downstream of Lhatse. The
bridge served as an easy access to the Puntsholing monastery
and even more to the huge Jonang Chörten, only about 1.5
hours of travel on foot from the bridge, but served also the
holiday traffic to the north-south as well as to east-west
direction.
77
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 26: The part of the Phuntsoling Chakzam across the Yarlung Tsangpo, which
is still functioning.
The bridge was used until about 1904. In 1907, Sven Hedin
reports in his book ‘Transhimalaya’:
Almost immediately south of Tschagha, a village with a few
stone houses in a grove of old willows, one can see the
monastery and the Dsong (Dzong) of Pinsoling (Phuntsholing)
on the right riverbank. The river is narrow and the banks full
of round granite blocks of one metre in diameter; the
necessary material to a bridge is available. On the banks two
mighty stone pyramids and behind the two another two
78
Bridges in the Himalayas
smaller ones are erected. Between those two thick chains are
spanned that are prolonged up to the smaller pyramids and
are fastened there once again. Between the chains, a network
of ropes is spanned like a hammock on which one lays narrow
planks; on these one walks and uses the chains as a railing.
However, since three years the Pinsoling Bridge it is not used
anymore; whoever wants to proceed to Pinsoling from
Tschagha, must first go upstream to Ladse-dsong (Lhatse
dzong) and then use the ferry there.58
During the last years of the 20th century, only a few metres
from Phuntsholing a new suspension bridge was built
upstream, which can also carry heavy traffic load. The bridge
of Thangtong Gyalpo for some time must have still been used,
because instead of the former ropes for the walking layer
cables were arranged. With the first local perpetration by the
author, the bridge was still passable. In 2001, it was no
longer usable but still completely available. However, in 2002,
the bridge stood only from the left bridgehead up to the first
stream pillar, while the chains of the middle section and the
right part lay in the floods of the Yarlung Tsangpo.
Rinchen Chakzam
On the edge of a wide valley, to the north of Lhasa where the
rivers Rong Chhu, Talung Chhu and Miggi unite to the
Kyichu river, another bridge attributed to Thangtong Gyalpo
leads across the Kyichu. This iron chain bridge allowed
among others, the access to the huge monasteries of Reting,
Taglung and Drigung, but it is also important traffic wise, as
well as strategically. Through this bridge, several caravan
used to cross, in particular the north-south road from Sining
and the Kokonor across the Tangla mountains, Reting, then
via the Rinchen Chakzam, which for example, had already
been used by father Johannes Grueber in the middle of the
17th century.
Fig. 27: The Rinchen Chagzam on the way the monastery of Reting and Lhasa,
Tibet.
80
Bridges in the Himalayas
Above the old bridge, the steel construction of the new iron
truss bridge is visible.
Fig. 28: The combined cantilever and iron chain bridge on the way to Tholing.
- Span approximately 30 m
- Chain links approximately 26 to 38 cm long and 7 to 8 cm wide
- Steel crosscut approximately 1.8 cm x 2.5 cm
Riwoche Chakzam
In the Eastern Tibetan Province of Kham, another suspension
bridge is ascribed to Thangtong Gyalpo. The Riwoche
Chakzam straddles the Chi Chu, a tributary of the Mekong,
which is about 60 kilometres to the north of the provincial
centre of Riwoche, near the village of Chakzamkha, called
after the iron chain bridge. The bridge is constructed as a
stress ribbon bridge possibly like the bridge in Chhuka, with
five chains which had a width about 2.60 metres, which
directly carry the bridge rail. Today the chains are connected
among each other with cable.
Fig. 29: The Panding Chakzam strengthened with steel cables for modern traffic.
- Span: 44 m
- Original width: 1.20 m and width since 1994: 3.20 m
- Chain at the top side of the river, chain links 30 to 41 cm long, 7 to 8
cm wide
- Steel cross cut approximately 2 x 2 cm
- Chain at the lower side of the river, chain links 26 to 31 cm long, 7 to
8 cm wide
- Steel cross- cut 2 x 2 cm
-
85
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Fig. 30: The author interviewing a 97 year old Tibetan Wangchuk about the
history of the Panding Chakzam.
Chakzam
Although Chinese engineers tore down this bridge during the
construction of the new concrete bridge in about 1950, the
‘Chakzam’ now and then also called ‘Chu Shur’ or ‘Chu Shul’
Chakzam remains the most famous bridge building work by
Thangtong Gyalpo. Only the southern stream pillar made
from wackestone from the river still tells us about its
significance as one of the oldest and probably farthest
spanned iron chain bridges in the Himalayas. From the whole
northern part of Tibet, including Lhasa, one reached
Thangtong Gyalpo’s main monastery at the southern Yarlung
Tsangpo banks of Chuwo Ri via this iron chain bridge.
Further, on, the north-south connection led to Bhutan,
86
Bridges in the Himalayas
87
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
well. Here at this bridge, once riding, pack animals, and those
herds that could not cross the several hundred metre wide
Yarlung Tsangpo without swimming cross the river in
addition to the human traffic. Here, there was also ferry
traffic by yak leather boats and wooden ferries.
64 Hesse-Wartegg, p.217.
89
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
90
Bridges in the Himalayas
Fig. 31: The European drawing of the Chakzam. Source: Waddell, 1895
Fig. 32: The pillars of the former Nyango Druka Chakzam in the wide river bed
of the Yarlung Tsangpo near Tsethang.
95
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
In Bhutan, the Mahāsiddha not only found open ears for his
teachings, but he also found big iron ore deposits. The land
was even more depended on consolidated bridges than Tibet,
as raft or ferry connections were not possible because of
precipitous gorges and torrential rivers, except in some
southern and eastern parts of the land.
98
Bridges in the Himalayas
Tamchog Chakzam
According to the biographical notes in the History of Bhutan,
Thangtong Gyalpo erected a bridge across the Paro Chhu (sPa
gro chu) to Tamchog (gTam chos) by 1433.74 The successors of
the first Chakzampa built a Lhakhang here,75 the Tamchog
Gonpa (gTam chos dgon pa). In 1969, the iron suspension
bridge was destroyed by high water. The chains were partly
rescued and kept in the attic of the shed behind the
Lhakhang where I found them while visiting the place in 1980
and 1992. According to the oral tradition, even other chain
parts are supposed to lie buried in the riverbed below stones
and sand. To ensure the access to the Tamchog Lhakhang
across the swift moving Paro Chhu, a suspension bridge was
built from cable ropes after 1969.
Fig. 33: The newly erected Tamchog Chakzam (2005) across the Paro Chhu.
then said to have used his knee as an anvil and forged two
bridges in one day from the iron, i.e. one for Tamchog Gonpa
and the other one, Chaze Chakzam, which was erected only a
few kilometres downstream.
101
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Doksum Chakzam
In the village of Doksum, also called Duksom and Drugsum,
on the way between Tashigang and Tashi Yangtse as well as
Chörten Kora, an iron chain bridge is built here across the
likewise very steeply precipitating and torrential Kholong
Chhu. This bridge at least is supposed to have been
strengthened with chains of the Tashigang Chakzam bridge,
after it was destroyed by high water in 1968.
102
Bridges in the Himalayas
77 The engineer Horst Taft and the author carried out the
measurement work. The bridge was still used in 2004. However,
both bridgeheads in particular with the abutments showed
considerable damages.
103
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
chains two metres, and both upper chain rows had a distance
of 2.68 metres. Earlier, plant fibre ropes connected all chains.
Later, these ropes were substituted with a network from wire.
In both cases, all railing chains help with the support. With
recumbent ‘handrail chains’ that are 2.68 metres apart and
which were not meant for touching as arises from the
measure, but instead, just as with the ‘Chakzam’ at Chushul
in Tibet, had to strengthen the strong lateral vibrations. The
chains correspond to the standard type of the chains of
Thangtong Gyalpo.
Tashigang Chakzam
Below the Tashigang Dzong, an iron chain bridge of
Thangtong Gyalpo spanned the Dangme Chhu (Drang me
chu). Like the Dangme Chu Chazam, the bridge spanned
about 100 metres and was constructed in the standard bridge
form of the Chakzampa: Two chains bound between ropes
from plant fibers, which were later replaced by wire, which
carried a walking layer, the bridge rail. In 1968, a high water
tore away the foundations of the iron chain bridge and
collapsed into the water. The chains were later rescued and
partly kept in the Tashigang Dzong, where they lay on the
court wall for a long time. Another part of it is hung up on the
walls of the former right bridgehead in the Chakzam
Lhakhang, which is dedicated to Thangtong Gyalpo.
Fig. 36: The former Tashigang Chakzam across the Drangme Chhu. Photo: Fritz
von Schulthess.
106
Bridges in the Himalayas
The iron chain bridge had a span of about 35 metres and was
washed away by flood in 1968. It was substituted by a
suspension bridge from cable ropes and the foundations and
bridgeheads of the iron chain bridge were used for it. On 20th
February, 2004, road workers who were busy with the
preparations for a permanent bridge building as well as a
road to the above mentioned villages, found a nearly eight
metre long section of the former iron chain bridge in the
river.80 Choetsi earlier was likewise a blacksmith’s village and
inside the Choetsi Lhakhang, there is an altar dedicated to
Thangtong Gyalpo and his son Buchung Gyalwa Zangpo.
Fig. 37: The new statue of Thangtong Gyalpo inside the Sili Gonpa.
Changchi Chakzam
Shortly after Chukha, Samuel Turner crossed another iron
chain bridge and Davis noted this bridge down in his maps. I
have searched for this suspension bridge and found the
remains of it. It crossed the Wang Chhu between Chochoka,
the today’s Changchi, and the Sili Gonpa. Next to the road,
the remains of the anchorage can still to be found in the bank
rocks, and, finally, a part of the chains is kept in the
basement of the Sili Gonpa. In the Dukhang of this
monastery, the link appears. We find the statue of Thangtong
Gyalpo revered.
108
Bridges in the Himalayas
Fig. 38: Altar inside the Sili Gonpa with Buddha Śākyamuni in the foreground
and the chain links of the Changchi Chakzam in the back.
Chukha Chakzam
Chukha Chazam presents a prominent significance for the
history of the iron chain bridges in Bhutan and Tibet as well
as the later evolution of suspension bridges in Europe and
America. George Bogle used it on his way to Tibet and wrote
about it; also, the mission under Samuel Turner in 1786
109
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
crossed this iron iron chain bridge. Turner had the bridge
exactly described, measured and recorded, and, above all, the
precise dimension and accurate drawing set the suspension
and iron chain bridge building into motion.
Fig. 39: The drawing of the Chukha Chakszam published by Samuel Turner in
1800 in London after the exact measurement of his travel companion Samuel
Davis. Source: Turner, 1800
110
Bridges in the Himalayas
upper two chains were spanned, and two string board walls of
about 1.50 metre of thickness which protected the wooden
scaffolding against lateral toppling.
Lumbolang Chakzam
George Bogle reports about a bridge across the Thimphu
Chhu: ‘At Lumbolang is a bridge that exists of only two
chains.’83 The place called Lumbolang by Bogle lies half a way
between Paga Gonpa and Babesa, i.e. at the today’s
Khasadapshu. In Khasadapshu, an important bridge across
the Thimphu Chhu exists even today.
Chuzom Chakzam
At Chuzom, both the Paro Chhu and Thimphu Chhu unite to
the Wang Chhu. Karma Ura reports that after the confluence,
an iron chain bridge spanned the strategically important
point. In 1974, the author instead of the iron chain bridge
found a Bailey bridge already suitable for heavy vehicle
traffic. A substantially higher laid and further spanned
concrete bridge later substituted it.
Wangdi Chakzam
Below the Punakha Dzong, the winter residence of the Je
Khenpo, Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu unite to form Puna Tsang
Chhu, which in India is called Sankosh. The most important
crossing from Western to Central and Eastern Bhutan led
across this river below the Wangdi Phodrang Dzong, and here
clearly there is a bridge history written. According to Karma
Ura, a stately cantilever bridge divided by a natural stream
pillar was constructed in 1684 in place of iron chain bridge.
Ura writes: “The bazam replaced an iron chain bridge
installed by Thangtong Gyalpo at the same site”.84 The
transport links at this point has never lost its importance. In
1968, a concrete bridge with a daring arch again replaced a
113
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
Nepal
In Nepal, there was a tradition of the construction of iron
chain bridges as well, and some of them still exist to this day.
Whether or how far this tradition goes back to Thangtong
Gyalpo, cannot be determined according to the present level
of knowledge.
Fig. 40: Iron chain bridge across the Bhote–Kosi in Nepal. Photo: Hans Renatus
116
Bridges in the Himalayas
While the rope bridges from plant fibres survived only few
years and the wooden bridges were often washed away by the
high water, the iron chain bridges provided good services for
at least 50 years and mostly survived much longer.
Condition for iron chain bridges was in each case the regional
occurrence of iron ore. For example, in circa 1970, numerous
iron chain bridges exist in the district of Baglung87 to the west
of Pokhara, but also in eastern Nepal around Jiri. Norman
Hardie reports about this during his journey in 1955:
At the sixth day since Kathmandu, we reached the last of the
Hindu villages. High up on top of the hills, we saw mouths of
the tunnels leading to the iron ore deposits. At the wayside
stood furnaces and black smithy. Mostly a child served the
bellows, while it used the long lever arm as a seesawing swing.
From those there come the door locks of the Sherpas and the
strong chains of the better iron chain bridges.88
The chain links and chains were forged by the Kamis, the
blacksmiths, a caste of untouchable craftsmen. These
blacksmiths played an extremely important role, because they
forged not only the chains, but also the anchor constructions
as well as for the wood processing and stone treatment tools.
118
Bridges in the Himalayas
119
IV THANGTONG GYALPO’S IRON CHAIN BRIDGE AND
THEIR INFLUENCE IN EUROPE
120
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
94 Grueber 1985
95 Kircher 1667
123
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
96
Leibold 2002, p.114
97Kircher 1667, p.213 ff., translated by Margarete Rosskopf,
Burchard Schlömer and Dr. Matthias Vogt.
124
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
126
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
Fig. 43: The first draft of an iron chain bridge in Tibet (China) which was
published in Europe in 1726. Source: Leupold 1726
that has been seen is exactly described and probably has been
walked upon by father Grueber is presented, but is assigned to the
story of a former bridge.
102 Leupold 1726, § 321.
128
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
1801 The Justice of the Peace, James Finley, allows the first
iron chain bridge to be erected near Philadelphia in America.
The chains are like the chains of the bridges of Thangtong
Gyalpo. Some authors report about the first test bridges of
Finley from 1796.
1810 Finley publishes the patent for iron chain bridges and
by 1820 he built about 40 smaller iron chain bridges with
ring links and spans between 10 and 40 metres.110 Only one
bridge of its kind exists to this day, i.e. the 1810 Merimac
Bridge which was built in Newburyport.
132
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
134
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
Fig. 45: The iron chain bridge between Buda and Pest in Hungary built in the
middle of the 19th century.
1840-1849 The first big iron chain bridge with 202 metres
of span is built according to the concepts of the British
engineer Clark across the Danube in Budapest which still
extant.117
135
Chakzampa Thangtong Gyalpo
All the great Renaissance master builders dealt with very far
spanned bridges. Thus, Leonardo da Vinci from 1502 to 1503
conceived a wooden arch bridge with 360-metre length and
24 metre width over the Golden Horn in Istanbul, Turkey,
which could hardly have been realised then.123 The examples
built in the 16th century have reached spans of 25 to 35
metres; and the famous bridge of Andrea Palladio with a truss
construction, the Ponte degli Alpini in Bassano, Italy, across
124 Bühler 2004, p.58. The drawings, outlines and concepts of the
renaissance master builders for bridge constructions and the span
widths of the bridge of Bassano show conspicuously the discrepancy
between wish and reality.
125 Gerner 2002, p.70-76.
138
Thangtong Gyalpo’s Influence in Europe
139
BIBLIOGRAPHY
140
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141
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Huc, M.: Travels in Tartary, Thibet and China, London, 1856
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Brücken und des Brückenbaues… Leipzig, 1726
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The Centre for Bhutan Studies has received a letter from Tenzin
Chhophag, the 12th Chagzampa, in December 2007.
The letter questioned the source of information the Centre has used
and suggested further investigation. It demanded that the Centre,
which is responsible for printing and distribution [the book], should
provide answers to the doubts raised above.
Signed by
Tenzin Chhophag
The Centre for Bhutan Studies would like to clarify that Chagzampa
Thangtong Gyalpo – Architect, Philosopher and Iron Chain Bridge Builder
was written by Manfred Gerner in German and translated into
English by Gregor Verhufen. The Centre has published the book for
145
the benefits of the Bhutanese reading public since there is limited
information on this important Buddhist saint. The Centre is mainly
interested with the book, like any other Bhutanese readers, as a rich
social document, not for its documentation of who is and who is not
the 12th or 17th reincarnation of Thangtong Gyalpo.
We also would like to clarify that CBS has played no role either in its
research or in selecting sources.
Thank you.
146