Bushcraft Survival PDF

Editor Simon Ellar
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Sub-Editor Olivia Beardsmore
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Design Andy Childs
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Proof-Reading
Elaine Gilboy
Advertising Sales HOW TIME FLIES...
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Well, as I write this editorial I am conscious that it is for the
Office Administrator September/ October issue… how time flies, the summer is
Linda Frohock passing and before we know it the leaves will have turned, fallen
[email protected] and there will be snow on the ground! That said, it is not here
Distribution yet, and there is still plenty of time to get out and practise our
Comag bushcraft skills before the winter comes and a new set of skills
Tavistock Road come into play…
West Drayton
Middlesex Last issue, I spoke of starting to pack boxes and having a Stovax
UB7 7QE wood burning stove installed at our new house, well that
Telephone: 01895 433800 seems an age away too as we have now moved, unpacked (bar
some things in the garage and outbuilding) and despite the
Cover Image warm weather we have used the stove, much to my youngest
Paul Kirtley preparing a featherstick son’s delight! In the move I have discovered loads of forgotten
bushcraft treasures - things that I have made, gifts from others,
Environmental memories from trips, materials I have found and saved, kit that
Bushcraft & Survival Skills is an Environmentally
Responsible Business. Printed on FSC paper from I have saved for my children and just general kit that I need to thin out. My desire to sort through it all and be minimal
sustainable sources, we use vegetable- based extended to all our possessions. As we unpacked it reminded me of the motto “know more, carry less” that we use in some of
inks (soya and boiled linseed oil). All waste
paper is recycled via a local transfer partner. our promotions for the magazine. Do I really need all these things? Could I do without this? When was the last time I used that?
Refillable ink cartridges, eco-bulbs and recycled Knowledge is the only thing that we can carry with us at all times, regardless of baggage allowance!
/ recyclable consumables are used and we are
involved in several tree-planting schemes, to
name just some of our actions to be ‘green’. Sharing the knowledge that we have is also of great importance, how satisfying it is to teach a new skill to an interested party,
Printed by Buxton Press – an young or old. I have found that one of the best ways to enhance knowledge gained is through practising it, but more so,
award-winning, ecofriendly printer. through teaching it, be that to a Scout group, school, visitors at a show or to my own family members. So, as we approach the
season of giving, let’s all amass knowledge and then share that knowledge with others to keep the skills of our ancestors alive.
Cert no. TT-COC-2200

This issue is filled with people who want to share their knowledge, from making things… to bushcraft skills, it is packed with
great articles for you to enjoy.
Subscriptions If you are feeling creative you could make a crook knife handle with Ben & Lois Orford on page 12, make a wrist guard with Ian
UK: £29 / year (1 year, 6 issues)
Europe: £55 / year Nairn, our resident Bushcraft on a Budget expert (p34) or perhaps make an Atlatl with Jason Ingamells (p58). If you are hungry
Rest of World: £72 / year or feel like foraging, Fiona Bird shares some of her recipes on page 28 and Richard Lees looks at the medicinal properties of
Digital: £19 / year (1 year, 6 issues) plants (p8). As the nights draw in and the home fires start burning you may want to perfect your feathersticks with Paul Kirtley
Subscribe online at: (p46) or read Pablo’s article to capture your favourite animal on a Trail Cam (p22).
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0333 4567 123 & Press Option 1 That is not all, Lofty Wiseman shares more tales and advice from his adventures (p1,8), you can try your hand at using natural
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SO Publications & Events Ltd. canoe with Tim Gent (p52). I hope that you all enjoy getting out there as the seasons change and as the beautiful colours of
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Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this
Enjoy getting out there - Happy Bushcrafting!
publication are not to be considered those of
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in whole or in part without written permission Simon Ellar Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook
is strictly prohibited. Editor
© 2012 SO Publications & Events Ltd. All rights
reserved. ISSN: 1749-7205
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8
CONTENTS...
REGULARxxxxx
3 Editorial
6 Letters to the editor
38
16 In the news
65 Back Issues Offer
66 Subscription Offer
67 Next issue
72 Trading Post
82 Situations Vacant
FEATURES
8 Medicinal Molecular Marvels
12 How to make and fit a Mocotaugan handle
18 Lofty’s Life Stories
22 Trail Cameras
28 The Forager’s Kitchen Recipes
34 Bushcraft on a Budget
38 Picture Perfect Part 4
46 Making Fantastic Feathersticks
52 Using your Canoe for Foraging and Fishing
58 Make your own Atlatl
46
68 Tracking with Powders & Dust
78 Nature’s Pigments for Natural Dying
REVIEWS
45 Book Reviews
51 Book Reviews
74 Best in Bushcraft 2013
COMPETITIONS
7 Win a LMF Firesteel
45 Win Wild Guide
45 Win Wild Swimming
51 Win Forest School & Outdoor Learning in the Early Years
51 Win Children Learning Outside the Classroom
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To view all the contributors visit www.bushcraftmagazine.com BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 5
STAR
LETTERSTOTHE EDITOR! Buc Foldin
LETT
ER
ksa g
wo
Way n it
wife tending to a cycle path, being ! :) s
A SAW POINT able to provide ID detailing that
you were rangers responsible for
As I have just read your article on saws in the latest edition of Bushcraft the paths’ upkeep, then I would be
by Ben and Lois Orford, I thought I would tell you what happened to inclined to say “keep up the good
my wife and I a couple of days ago. work” and leave you to go about
your business. If I felt the need
We are rangers for SUSTRANS, the National Cycle Charity, and whilst we to, I could look at the SUSTRANS
were out cycling, we noticed some bushes and low hanging branches website and with a bit of clicking
over the shared use pathway. As this can be a hazard to cyclists’ could see under the duties of a ranger that one of them is to ‘Carry out
faces during the hours of darkness, I decided to cut the low hanging general tidy ups and clear back encroaching vegetation’.
branches away from the cycle-path. Because of the branches’ thickness,
I had to use my folding saw, which is the same, albeit a different make, It is never worth arguing with the police, as, if the officer in question
as you displayed in your magazine article, using secateurs for the has an opinion it is unlikely that you will change that. If you do feel
smaller branches. wronged by the law, it is open to interpretation and as such you can
always take legal advice should you ever feel aggrieved or wish to make
Just as we had come to the end of cutting, there was a screech of a complaint.
brakes, together with flashing lights and we saw that a Police car had
stopped in the nearside lane of the dual carriageway. Two officers Our advisor responded, here is an excerpt from his comments about
approached us, and one ordered me to put down the saw, which at the law:
this time was in my hand beside my leg. They asked us what we were
doing, so I showed him the saw in explanation whereby he became I can quite believe this situation as there are some people in the Police
agitated, asked me to fold it and hand it over to him. He inspected who lack common sense and have a blinkered, bullish approach to
it, noticed there was a locking facility on it and informed me he was some situations. I would advise the Attles to formally complain to their
confiscating it because “locking blades are illegal in a public place”. Police Commissioner for such appalling over-zealous treatment, as this
is not a good impression of their local police force.
After explaining what we were doing and after showing some I.D,
the officer relented and said I could collect the saw the following day It is illegal to carry any sharp or bladed article in a public place (with the
from the Police station and it must be collected in a vehicle. I asked exception of a non locking folding pocket knife, which has a blade that
him what the purpose was of keeping the saw overnight and after is less than 7.62 cm (3 inches).
some discussion, but with no obvious explanation, he asked me to go
straight home with the saw in my pannier, not to cut any branches and A lock knife is not a folding pocket knife and therefore it is illegal
not to stop anywhere until I arrived home. This I agreed to do. to carry around such a knife regardless of the length of the blade,
(if you do not have reasonable excuse). A lock knife has a spring or
I am now not certain what the law is regarding saws away from the mechanism which locks the blade in position when fully extended; the
home. Any tool, in the wrong hands, can cause serious injury, even a blade cannot be closed without that mechanism being released. A lock
plastic knife. I understood that if a tool was being used for doing a job, knife is not an offensive weapon per se (because these knives were
then this, within reason, was okay. made with a specific purpose in mind and not as a weapon). However,
possession of a lock knife (and therefore a locking saw - being a ‘bladed
My wife and I are both 65 years of age and keen cyclists. We enjoy the article’) in a public place without reasonable excuse, is an offence.
cycle paths that we have in our area and like to remove obstacles that
can obviously harm or hinder both ourselves and other users, at the Simon commented on the carrying of a regular DIY saw. Possession of a
same time being very aware of being ‘countrywise’. This could be quite multi-tool incorporating a prohibited blade/pointed article is capable of
funny in our local paper: being an offence under this section even if there are other tools on the
“POLICE CONFISCATE FOLDING SAW FROM PENSIONERS CUTTING article which may be of use to a person in a public place (screwdriver,
LOWHANGING BRANCHES ON CYCLE PATH”. can opener etc). Other articles like a folding saw, a fixed blade saw or
other DIY equipment are also included in this category.
Keep up the good work with this excellent magazine. We are hoping to
attend your next Bushcraft Show in 2014. The ban is not absolute, it is for the person in possession of such an
article to prove on the balance of probabilities that he/she had good
Colin Attle reason for its possession. It will have to be genuine, for example,
someone back packing across the Lake District may reasonably be
expected to have a knife for the preparation of meals or, as in this
Dear Colin, example, rangers who in exercising their lawful authority are using a
folding saw to cut down obstructing branches. It would be far more
Your letter had me chuckling from the end of the third paragraph, the difficult to justify on the streets of a city or town, but there will be
start of the sixth paragraph was the ‘icing on the letter’… occasions when someone is genuinely travelling to a station with a
backpack containing a knife or axe, going to a martial arts or scout
I hear all sorts of situations where ‘bushcraft’ has had a brush with the meeting (which is easily checked).
law and am often written to for advice. We have great relations with a The penalty for committing this offence is a maximum prison sentence
selection of police representatives ranging from wildlife protection to of four years.
firearms. You may have seen articles in the magazine about bushcraft
and the law, and in particular articles on knives and the law. Looking at I hope that you can continue your work unhindered in the future…
your situation, the law as it stands would designate a folding saw with
a blade over 3” that locks, as being illegal to carry in a public place. The ‘Keep up the good work’,
law also uses the term ‘reasonable cause’ when describing the carrying
of knives (or saws!). If I was a policeman and I were to see you and your Simon
6 • BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine on Facebook
BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET Smiles on our
Dear Bushcraft Magazine, Face
Being an avid reader of your magazine after discovering it by chance Hello to all at Bushcraft Magazine,
a year or so ago and being a keen 'back garden' bushcrafter, I’ve been
particularly interested in both your articles and other readers’ attempts My name is Mark and I’m writing this email from
at making bushcraft equipment on a budget. I’ve been camping and Afghanistan where I’m currently serving on operations
exploring the great British countryside for some time now, but the as part of the Brigade Reconnaissance Force - recently
arrival of my first child four years ago has re-prioritised my camping we received a parcel from an unnamed sender through
expeditions to the back garden as sterilising bottles and changing the welfare parcel chain, inside to our delight were
nappies is a bit easier when you’re close to home. Now my daughter has some copies of your magazine with your trade mark
started to pick up the outdoors bug and has joined me in our 'camping printed on a piece of paper! We were slightly confused,
holidays' of a weekend in the garden, but she has kept asking and asking but I felt obliged to look your email address up and
when we are going to cook a proper breakfast outside. With money send you some thanks from all of us as your magazine
being a bit tight with baby number two being born, this led me to the is bought by a few of the lads when in the UK - your
thought of making my own stove to allow me to cook the full English goodies made a lot of smiles on some tired faces -
for us to have of a morning. After a few failed welds and a bit of wobbly many thanks and praise from all lads in the Brigade
leg issues overcome, I am quite pleased with the outcome of my project Reconnaissance Force, Afghanistan!
and Chloe, my daughter, is excited to finally be able to have breakfast
outside instead of having to run indoors and use the oven. A few trial PS - If you can keep these smiles on our faces, we will
fires have worked well, and after a coat of paint we will be trialing my not let you down!!!!
wares this weekend!! Thanks for a great magazine and planting the
seed that you don't have to Yours faithfully,
buy expensive gear to enjoy M KELLY
the outdoors if you are handy Courtesy of Mark's iPad...
enough with your hands and
a few tools!!
Dear Mark,
Many thanks again from both
myself and Chloe!! We are glad that the magazines have brought smiles to
your faces out there! We appreciate all that you do for
Regards our country.
Will Austin There is a box of goodies on the way including some

more copies for you to read and enjoy.
Dear Will, Keep Smiling…
Congratulations on your new Simon

arrival! I am glad you have
been keeping your ‘bug’ alive
in the garden and more so
that this has rubbed off onto
Chloe…
It is great that you are

enjoying the magazine and
that you’ve found inspiration
from the Bushcraft on a
Budget articles. Your words
are so true, with a few tools,
some materials and a bit
of time we can create some
great kit, often customised
to our personal needs and
preferences.
Let’s hope baby number 2

loves the outdoors too!
Simon
To win a Light My Fire Firesteel, send in your Write

‘Letter to the editor’ to Follow Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Today!
[email protected] on Facebook
ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
MEDICINAL MOLECULAR MARVELS

‘What is there that is not poison? All things are poison and
nothing is without poison. Solely the dose determines that AUTHOR PROFILE:
a thing is not a poison’ (Paracelsus, 1493-1541).
Richard Lees
‘The poisons are our principle medicines, which kill the Richard Lees MSc, NCFE Ethnobotanist and
disease and save the life’ (Ralph Waldo Emerson, government accredited Bushcraft and Survival
1803-1882). Instructor has a passion for wild living. He has
uncovered secrets of our ancestors’ survival and
A
discovering what helped them to thrive. As part
s bushcraft enthusiasts, we all know at least a handful of of his research thesis, he solved a three-hundred-year-old Ethnobotanical
medicinal plants commonly found in the wild: Foxglove, problem proving that Bracken rhizomes were a winter starch staple. Richard
Willows, Self-heal, and Greater Plantain etc. However, has extensive knowledge of the symbiotic relationship between plants and
how do these plants actually affect the human body? First, I will people. His desire is to reconnect us with nature once more.
briefly explain the composition of matter and chemical objects.
The composition of matter:

Neutrons combine to give Elements that can combine Compounds
Protons and
Electrons
a a a to give
a
Chemical objects:
a
Atoms of one or more elements may be connected
in different ways to give a molecules
Scientists call chemicals found in plants phytochemicals and Hydrogen only makes one molecular bond; oxygen makes two,
their molecules come in a variety of size and shapes, with the nitrogen makes three; carbon makes four. Bonds can be single,
power to either kill or cure us. This is one of the harder aspects double, or triple bonds.
of Bushcraft and Ethnobotany, so I will endeavour to make it
accessible. However, you may probably read this more than For example, let's look at carbon seen in Figure 1.
once! I know I did back when I first learned it!
Molecular bonding Figure 1.

Docking is the term frequently used to predict the binding
orientation (the shape and size) of small molecule drug
candidates to their larger protein targets within the body,
in order to predict the affinity (effectiveness) and activity
(the action) of the small molecule. Given the biological and
pharmaceutical significance of molecular docking, scientists
have directed considerable efforts towards improving the
methods used to predict docking. Fortunately, nature has been
working on these molecules for millennia and has evolved a What do the lines mean? In the diagrams, you will see that
vast quantity from which we can benefit. Simply put, it is like a we draw molecules using lines. The lines represent a bond
lock and key where the protein target or ‘ligand’ is the lock and between two atoms; single, double, and triple bonds are also
the medicinal molecule the key. If the key fits the lock, then we possible. The atom itself is actually the intersection either
have an active molecule that has an effect on the body. between two lines, by the end of a line, or by its atomic symbol.
O is an oxygen atom; OH is an oxygen atom singly bonded to a
The basic rules of bonding hydrogen atom
Now we will look into the structure of the four main elements
found in plant chemicals. As it can get very complicated, the Taking drugs or drug absorption and
simplest way to remember these bonds is: distribution
1—2—3—4 ‘Herbs and plants are medicinal jewels gracing the woods, fields
H—O—N—C and lanes which few eyes see, and few minds understand. Through
Burdock root
(primary metabolite
this want of observation and knowledge the world suffers immense carbohydrate)
loss’ (Linnaeus, 1707-1778).
There are a number of ways in which drugs can enter your system
(absorption). However, it must be in a way that the molecule
remains intact and can begin to circulate in the blood in order
to take effect. These are: inhaled into the lungs e.g. tobacco;
insufflated (snorted) into the nasal cavity e.g. cocaine; taken
orally e.g. tea; absorbed through the skin e.g. aloe; or injected e.g.
derivatives of pure plant drugs like opium.
Transport of drugs
Only first year
burdock contains
carbohydrate
Drugs injected or taken orally enter into the bloodstream where
they circulate through every organ and system in the body,
binding to proteins found in the blood.
Barriers to absorption
No matter how one administers a drug, the first barrier the drug
will encounter is a membrane. To simply diffuse into a cell, the
drug must be relatively non-polar because of the large non-polar
membrane interior. The polarity of a drug is either a positive or have evolved highly advanced chemicals. The chemical families
negative electric charge, and the electric charge of the molecule include:
affects its ability to simply diffuse into a cell. In turn, the PH of
the drug affects the charge (see figure 2). Therefore, polarity
determines whether or not a molecule will dissolve in water Alkaloids
and whether or not it can pass through the membrane that
surrounds the human brain. Polarity is simply the difference in When plant
electro-negativity between the two atoms creating the bond. The scientists are Figure 3.
membrane that surrounds the brain cells is very tight. This is a screening for
unique occurrence in the body and acts as a protective device possible medicinal
known as the blood/brain barrier. Fortunately, many drugs are still activity in plant
capable of crossing it. compounds,
they are usually
screening for
alkaloids. Alkaloids are the second largest, most medicinally active,
diverse and important group of secondary metabolites. We know
Figure 2. of over ten thousand different structures; it is because of this
diversity that it can be difficult to define them simply. In general,
they are molecules that include a nitrogen atom in a ring. Alkaloids
are found in plants displaying a nitrogen ring (see figure 3). They
are usually classified by the way in which a plant biosynthesizes
(creates) the molecule. Historically, both folk healers and scientists
have recognised alkaloids due to their bitterness. A classic example
of this is the Cinchona tree.
The Quechua peoples of Peru and Bolivia originally discovered

Medicinally important chemical the medicinal properties of the Cinchona tree. The Quechua
families found in plants cultivated the trees to alleviate shivering that they thought was
caused by low nighttime temperatures. The Jesuit Brother Agostino
Salumbrino (1561–1642), who lived in Lima, observed the Quechua
Primary metabolites using the quinine-containing bark of the Cinchona tree for that
purpose. In fact, the Quechua peoples were suffering from malaria.
Primary metabolites are produced as the primary function of the And the Cinchona bark was treating malaria-induced shivering.
plant. They include the production of carbohydrates, lipids (or Although entirely ineffective in controlling shivering from cold, it
fats), amino acids, proteins and nucleic acids. A good diet rich in was the correct medicine for malaria. Jesuit missionaries then
carbohydrates, lipids, vitamins and minerals (primary metabolites) `introduced the use of the ‘fever tree’ bark into European medicine.
is often the first line of defence in warding off a disease. A healthy
body is less susceptible to disease than an unhealthy one. In the nineteenth century, the plant's seeds and cuttings were
smuggled out of Peru and Bolivia by the British to India and
Secondary metabolites Sri Lanka and by the Dutch to Java and Indonesia for new
cultivation at Cinchona plantations in colonial regions of tropical
The plants that produce secondary metabolites have developed
Asia. Unfortunately, the British were notorious for this sort of
these as a defence system against being eaten. A plant obviously
behavior. We also stole rubber tree seeds from Brazil, putting
cannot escape its predators, but it can arm itself with an arsenal
Brazil’s economic development back centuries. Ill feelings are still
of chemical weapons in order to survive. Over time, some species
harboured by the Brazilians to this day.
BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 9

ADVANCED BUSHCRAFT
As a medicinal herb, Cinchona bark is also known as Jesuit's bark Withering first
or Peruvian bark. The bark is stripped from the tree, dried, and learned of the
powdered for medicinal uses. It is medicinally active and contains a use of foxglove in
variety of alkaloids, including the anti-malarial compound quinine treating ‘dropsy’
and the anti-arrhythmic (to treat abnormal heart rhythms) quinidine. (congestive heart
Modern medicines have now superseded quinine; however, some failure) from an
Peruvian and Bolivian people still chew the bark to ward off malaria. old woman who
(See figure 4 showing structure of quinine). practiced as a
Feverfew (sesquiterpene)
folk herbalist in
The other alkaloid groups are: allium compounds, anthocyanidins Shropshire. As
and flavonoids, courmarins, cyanogenic glycosides, glucosinolates, part of a poly-
glycosides isoflavones, lignans, tannins, polyalkynes, and herbal formulation
polyalkenines. These alkaloid groups all have therapeutic actions; containing over
however, I am afraid that I would bore you to death by going into twenty different
every one of them! ingredients, she
Therefore, along with used the plant to
the Alkaloids, (the successfully treat
Figure 4.
second largest group), the condition.
I will give a description Withering deduced
of the largest group of that digitalis Foxglove (cardiac
secondary metabolites, was the ‘active’ glycoside)
the terpenes. ingredient in the
formulation. Over
the ensuing nine
Terpenes years, he carefully experimented
with different preparations
Terpenes can be further of various parts of the plant
split into: monoterpenes, (collected in different seasons). He
sesquiterpenes documented one hundred and fifty
diterpenes, triterpenes and tetraterpenes. In order to keep things six cases where he had employed
relatively simple, I will give examples of the chemicals that come digitalis and he described the
from each terpene. effects and the best - and safest
- way of using it. In one of these
There are a great many interesting chemicals that are cases, Erasmus Darwin asked
monoterpenes, including essential oils such as lavender oil and Withering for his second opinion
peppermint oil. Moreover, absinthe contains the monoterpene with regard to one of his patients.
wormwood (Artemisia absinthium). Valerian, which is a powerful In January 1785, Darwin submitted
sleep aid, comes from Valerina officinalis. The sesquiterpenes a paper entitled ‘An Account of Water mint (monoterpene)
include the migraine-relieving feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium). the Successful Use of Foxglove in
The diterpenes include the highly significant Taxol, which is derived Some Dropsies and in Pulmonary
from the Pacific yew Consumption’ to the College of Physicians in
(Taxus brevifolia). London. Darwin presented his paper in March of
Taxol has been shown Figure 5.
that year, providing a model for all future medical
to be highly effective studies of plants. Purpurea Glycoside A eventually
in treating advanced emerged as the active alkaloid in Foxglove (see
ovarian and breast figure 5).
cancers. Sapponins
or soap-like chemicals
contain triterpenes. The
triterpenes, amongst
Conclusion
other things, are where one can find the best wild soaps. As you We have looked over some examples of how phytochemical
probably know, the best is soapwort. However, birch leaves and compounds work on a molecular level, proving its not just magic!
horse chestnut leaves also contain sapponins. Diosgenin is a The methods used by shamans in the jungle and folk healers are
triterpene isolated from the Mexican yam (Dioscorea spp.), and so complex and beautiful that I hope you have gained a deeper
it is the starting material for the synthesis of hormones for birth appreciation of not just the medicinal plants, but of all the plants
control pills. Finally, the tetraterpenes are of little medicinal value. we encounter as bushcrafters. With a deeper understanding of the
However, carotenoids (compounds similar to carotene) are of virtual chemical factory that surrounds us every time we enter into
interest as antioxidants. nature, we can gain a richer appreciation of the natural world. With
a deeper understanding comes a greater sense of responsibility, it
Finally, we will look at Cardiac glycosides that are named because is thus my hope that we will endeavour to protect the natural world
of their effect on the heart. Cardiac glycosides increase the heart’s at all costs. We may already have lost some of the cures for AIDS,
force of contraction and are greatly effective in the treatment cancer and a whole host of other diseases due to the destruction of
of congestive heart failure. In my opinion, William Withering’s so many of the earth's ecosystems, not least the Amazon rainforest.
discovery in 1785 of the medicinal use of Foxglove (Digitalis A quarter of all pharmaceuticals in use today are derived directly
purpurea) is the most interesting cardiac glycoside in terms of from plants. If we do not protect these ecosystems, we will reduce
clinical impact and the nature in which it was discovered. bio-diversity and destroy the habitats of wild animals, but ultimately,
it is humanity who will pay the price.
L e s St r ou d ’ s
TEMAGAMI K N I FE
4.5” Curly Birch handle

4.3” Triple laminated stainless steel blade
8.9” Overall length
Weighs 5.5oz
Supplied with leather sheath
F O R S T O C K I S T S C O N T A C T:
WHITBY & CO
T: 0 1 5 3 9 7 2 1 0 3 2
E: [email protected]
w w w. w h i t b y a n d c o . c o . u k / h e l l e

KNIVES & AXES
MAKING A
Motaugan
Handle
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Ben & Lois Orford
Ben and Lois Orford live and work from
their home in Herefordshire. With their
backgrounds in green woodwork and
traditional woodland crafts they make
a range of handmade woodcraft tools,
bushcraft knives and leatherwork for
the discerning outdoors enthusiast. Their combined experience and passion
for their craft makes them keen to pass on their knowledge and skills.
The traditional Mocotaugan or Indian crook knife is a mocotaugan is an unusual tool to use as it is used by pulling it
fantastically versatile tool to carry with you. It was an towards your body with your palm up and your thumb stretched
important tool of the indigenous people of the woodlands in out along the curved back edge of the handle to give power and
North America and had a very special place in their culture, control.
so much so that some of the handles were not just functional,
but very elaborately carved and often handed down through It is a rewarding project to fit your own handle and get it just right
the generations. for your own needs. So we are going to show you how to make a
wooden handle and use the traditional method of fitting the blade,
(alternatively you can use a piece of antler or curved branch that
A. looks and feels right in the hand).
You could use the same method to fit the blade to the handle that
we showed you in the ‘Modify your Mora’ article, (issue 37 page 22)
where you draw on the end of the handle the width of the tang
and then chain drill a mortice. This will work and is a little quicker,
but not as traditional and also makes the blade fitting permanent.
The great advantage of this method is that you can remove the
blade if the handle or blade need to be modified at all, or to make
sharpening easier. It is also an advantage if the blade of the knife
is low to the bottom edge of the handle as this method will give
greater control when using the tool and improve cutting ability.
Before you start making the handle it is important that you already
have the blade, as you need to make the handle wide enough to
fit the tang. The blades are available online from a few bushcraft
stores or can be made from old files or even modified from farriers'
T
he one important factor of the crook knife is to ensure a hook knives. There are a few styles, some are straight and some are
good fit for your grip and hand size, so that it doesn’t make more curved like a spoon knife, ideally the blade to look for if you
using it uncomfortable or strain your wrist in any way. The want the style of knife for making bows and paddles etc. should
C.
be about 3 to 4 inches long, not too curved, with the bevel on the
inside face and a flat outer edge.
Also look for a blade with a fairly square tang with a 90 degree
bend on one end which gives the blade a secure fit and prevents it
from moving too much in the handle. If you are going to be using
the drilling method these 90 degree bends can be removed with a
hacksaw or file.
Sizing the handle to your grip is fairly easy, firstly clench the fist of
your dominant hand and then stick your thumb out like you are D.
thumbing a lift, this is the shape that you a looking for so that your
thumb is not over stretched.
You need to measure across your grip adding about an inch so
your hand doesn’t slip onto the blade. The length and angle for
the ramp for your thumb wants to be the same as your own grasp
to make sure it is comfortable. You can always leave this longer and
trim it to length later.
The wood needs to a be a hardwood that is relatively tough,

something like Elm, Ash, Beech, Hawthorn or fruit woods e.g. Apple
or Damson.
The great thing about using wood from a hedgerow or from fruit
trees is that often the branches have the curved shape you are E.
looking for already grown into the branch and this will give a much
stronger handle.
Using either an axe, saw or just taking your time with a knife you
need to shape the piece of wood. Take your time and make sure
you use safe cutting techniques. Also make sure that you don’t
make the handle smaller than about one inch square as it will not
have enough wood for fitting the tang of the blade. You may also
want to fit the blade before shaping the handle too much as it will
be easier to hold in the vice. It is a definite advantage if you leave
the underside of the handle flat where the blade is going to go
until the rebate has been cut.
Don’t worry about making it super smooth or finished as it will

likely get a little dirty and marked while you get the blade to fit.
B.
F.
With this done the important job of fitting the blade can start.
Make sure the cutting edge is covered with tape so you don’t cut
yourself and then lay the tang of your blade on the underside of G.
the handle, (if you are making a right handed knife lay it on the
bench with the slope for your thumb pointing left).
Make sure that the whole length of the tang is used, the cutting
edge wants to start right at the end of the handle so you get
maximum cutting power.

KNIVES & AXES H.
To improve the efficiency of the tool it helps if the tip of the blade is
pointing slightly upwards when in use, so angle the blade so this is
achieved. Now, with a sharp pencil, mark around the tang. If your
blade has the bend on the end you may need to flip it over to allow
you to mark around the tang more easily.
Remove the blade and with the handle clamped to a bench, or

held in a vice, carefully with the tip of your knife cut straight down
around this pencil mark. This will cut the edge of the rebate we are I.
going to make and act as a stop cut, you can now either carefully
use your knife to remove the waste or use a small chisel - taking your
time.
You need to make this at least twice the depth of the thickness of
your tang. To achieve this you will need to remove a small piece at a
time and keep re-cutting the stop cut around the edge with the tip
of your knife so that you don’t split away your handle.
Keep trying the blade to make sure you have a tight fit. When you
are happy you have got the correct depth and if your blade has
the 90 degree bend at the end, you can carefully drill some holes
at the end of the rebate to accept it. Make sure you don’t drill too
deep. You could also heat this end with a blow torch and just burn
it in, making sure you wrap the rest of the blade in a damp cloth to
prevent damaging the blade and spoiling the temper. J.
When you are happy you have it fitted well, you need to make a
little capping piece of wood to fit over the top of the tang and fill
the gap that is left on the top. Make this from a long length of
wood so you can hold it safely with the other hand as you shape
it to fit and only cut it off when you are happy it fits well. Don’t
struggle with a small piece as it will be too difficult to hold and
you will likely cut yourself.
Before you fit the blade you can spend a little time cleaning up the
handle. If you want to carve anything on it now is the time to do
so; it is a good time to oil it too. You can now fit the blade and the
capping piece, knocking it in tightly. The traditional way to hold this
in place is to use a thong of rawhide, the advantage of this being
that once wrapped around and dried it shrinks making it really tight.
K.
Local pet shops are a great place to source rawhide, selling it as dog
chews. Just soak them in hot water and flatten them, then cut a
strip about 1cm wide (you may have to cut it in a constant spiral to
get the length you require).
You can also use thread or paracord, the only disadvantage being
you will have to make it as tight as possible as you bind it.
The way to bind it to get it tight and looking neat is to do a classic
whipping knot.
Take about a metre of cord and then put a bight in one end with
about 10cm of tail, lay this on the handle with both ends laying
parallel and then taking the long tail start to wrap it around the
handle going over the top of the short tail, pulling tight as you go.
When you have done 2 or 3 passes over the end of the capping
piece of wood you can then pass the end of the cord through the
loop that is still showing. Then from the other end pull the loop
tight and trap the long end of the cord. l.
You may need to use pliers to pull it as it may be really tight, watch
out that you don’t hurt yourself on the blade.
You can then cut off any of the spare cord as close as possible to
where it protrudes. If using paracord use a lighter to seal the ends.
You can then take the blade cover off, sharpen it if necessary and
then give it a test run. It will be a great tool to use as you have made
the handle to fit your own individual grasp.
M.
You can also make some really great looking and comfortable
crook knife handles from pieces of antler as the curves are often
perfect for your grip. A lot of pet shops sell this as dog chews too,
so check them out and you may get a great crook knife handle
from there. Using antler often means you have to use the drilling
method of fitting them as there is not enough solid antler to cut a
rebate but the texture of the antler does make a good handle.
N.
O.
Learning to use this tool can be a little tricky to begin

with, as you need to build up the strength in your forearm
and wrist, but take your time and remember to work
P. safely and persevere, as when you get the hang of it you
will find that it is the multi-tool of the woodsman.
For further information on the Mocotaugan and its safe

use refer to issue 35 page 12.
R.
Q.

INTHENEWS
NEWS JUST IN…Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine are pleased to launch our annual Best in Bushcraft
Awards for 2013 to recognise the effort and enthusiasm of the instructors, schools and retailers within the
bushcraft industry and the extraordinary lengths to which they go to promote the skills sets that so easily might be
otherwise forgotten. Please take a moment to thank the people in the bushcraft industry for their great efforts. See
p74 for details.
LIFESAVER Inventor-Founder Michael

Pritchard receives MBE
We are pleased to congratulate Michael Pritchard upon receipt of
his MBE. We first worked with him when he launched the Lifesaver
bottle into the retail market and have favoured Lifesaver products
ever since, they come top in our reviews and have been tested by
our editor in extreme situations where all but the Lifesaver bottle
failed!
LIFESAVER® Inventor-Founder, Michael Pritchard, has been

appointed a Member of the British Empire (MBE) as part of the
Queen’s Birthday Honours List. Michael’s award is in recognition for
his services to Innovation and International Business.
All
He commented on his MBE saying, ‘It is a great honour to be LIFESAVER® products are designed, invented and manufactured in
awarded the MBE from Her Majesty. I have always believed that the Great Britain and serve three main markets – Humanitarian, Leisure
problems of the world will be best solved through innovation and and Military. The LIFESAVER® family began with the LIFESAVER®
entrepreneurialism and this is true in the fight to end global water bottle in 2007 and then in 2009 was joined by the LIFESAVER®
poverty. I believe that everyone deserves clean, safe drinking water, Jerrycan, able to filter up to 20,000L of water. The LIFESAVER® M1
no matter where they are or what their circumstances are. I invented launched in April 2012 and was installed throughout Malaysia,
LIFESAVER to achieve this aim.’ giving users 2 million litres of clean, sterile drinking water. The
latest addition to the LIFESAVER® family is the LIFESAVER® cube – an
LIFESAVER® was founded in 2007, after the horrific events of the easily deployable, stackable humanitarian solution, giving those in
December 2004 Tsunami and Hurricane Katrina in Louisiana in disasters the ability to filter 5000L of sterile water, with the simple
August 2005. Michael felt compelled to help create something that technology of FILL, PUMP, DRINK TM. (Image of cube)
allowed people all over the world to turn dirty, diseased water, into
safe, sterile drinking water. It was then that LIFESAVER® was born. Michael Pritchard says, ‘I am so proud of what LIFESAVER® has
achieved, but we have a long way to go. With over 1.1 billion people
LIFESAVER® systems is based in Colchester, Essex with a dedicated globally still without access to safe drinking water, we must make
staffing team of over 30. The passion that resonates throughout the this a priority for now and the future.’
staff, ensures that Michael Pritchard’s goal of ‘ending water poverty’
is a similar goal for all those who have been touched by his passion. For more information about Lifesaver products visit
www.lifesaversystems.com
Peebol odourless gel. When you have finished, seal the pouch and dispose
of it in the nearest bin. The product is made in the UK and is 100%
The Outdoor Enthusiast’s Best Friend safe and reliable. The whole product is recyclable and it is safe for
Samantha Fountain the Dragons’ Den inventor behind the very the environment.
successful Shewee has announced a new product, The Peebol ‘the 5 to give
For more information visit www.shewee.com away
pocket-sized toilet’. This is a small pouch that unrolls; pops open at Send in .
you
the top is held against the body details r
and allows men, women (See T&
C’s p3)
and children to pee into

it with confidence. It is COMPETITION WINNERS...
watertight, holds a full litre
and is filled with special Ray Goodwin Canoeing Book - Mike Potts, Kirkintilloch
granules, which convert Greenwood Crafts – Fin McSeall, Barnsley
the urine into a spill proof, Outdoor Adventure Manual - Amy Rowland, Wrexham
The Forager’s Kitchen - Mr D Rogerson, Horsham
Mykel Hawke’s Knife – Richard Dent, Nottingham
16 • BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

Making a Difference for
the Massai
In the last issue of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine we reported
on The Bushcraft Show and promised to let you know the total
amount raised for the Massai dance troop and the village in Kenya.
The Oloip Massai dance troop came to England to perform, teach

cultural skills and fundraise for themselves and a Massai Villiage,
where the ongoing Woodland Ways Massai Warrior Expedition has
helped raise funds to build a school and pay teacher salaries.
As soon as their feet hit British soil, it was a non-stop programme

of events, from visiting numerous schools, to tourist sights such as
Conkers, Festivals, Woburn Abbey and The World of Bushcraft with
the highlight of the trip being three days at The Bushcraft Show.
They also had a day out in London, experiencing the underground
and a trip on the London Eye.
The whole experience was not only magical for the Massai but for
everyone who came into contact with them. Mr Hardwick, Deputy
Head at Pendle Vale High School told all the children that he
guarantees when they look back at their life at the school, the one
thing that they will remember will be the day that the Massai spent
with them.
Over £7000 was raised throughout their tour with money still
coming in. Mr and Mrs Allan from Lancashire read in their local
newspaper about the Massai visiting Pendle Vale School and were
so moved that they promptly sent in a cheque for £200.
Thank you for everyone who helped to make the lives of these
people better and we are grateful to the Massai for touching the
lives of those who met them.
For more information contact Jason Ingamells of Woodland Ways

Foundation www.woodland-ways.co.uk or call 01234 351006
Message from Anne

Thanks for everything you did for us For the Maasai themselves it was the most amazing experience of
when we were in England, the money we their lives. For the audience at The Bushcraft Show, I know a lot of
got really did help us, as for me I started you were touched by their warmth, smiles and performances. For
schooling, am at the moment a student, me, it was one of the most touching two weeks of my life. I will never
for the last three weeks, and am learning forget the young lady with tears in her eyes standing on my boat
a lot, thanks again, the others built looking out over the river saying, “never in my wildest dreams dared
houses for themselves, it’s amazing. I hope I could leave Kenya and visit your country”.
Comments from Jason Your generosity made a huge difference to the lives of the members
of the dance troop, and will make an incredible impact in the village
Ingamells, founder of
that we are supporting. We have sent some funds immediately
Woodland Ways Foundation: and more will follow as we work with the village Elders for them to
manage the long term ‘gifts’ in a way they see fit and of most benefit
Well, we did it… and it’s all thanks to to the village. We will continue to fundraise. We will also work with
your support! Can you believe it, working the Dance Troop to gain sustainable employment for them all. I
with our partners The Bushcraft Show cannot thank you enough. Daniel, Anne and the rest of the Oloip
and Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine Maasai Dance troop extend their warmest and heartfelt thanks to
we managed to fly seven Maasai half- every single one of you who supported what was an incredible
way around the world to share a cultural lifetime ambition to come and perform for you, they have now
experience that the vast majority of returned to the Oloip… which means shade - the shade of an acacia
people in this country would never have tree to shelter from the effects of the sun and reflect, don’t forget
had the chance to have otherwise. them… they will never forget you!
Do you have bushcraft news that you would like to share? Email [email protected]
LOFTY'S LIFE STORIES
MEETINGOLDFRIENDS
Three years ago I was invited to speak at The Bushcraft
Show. Having been retired for several years I didn’t know
quite what to expect. I met so many old friends I couldn’t
believe it. There were ex-students who had attended my
courses in the eighties and old army mates who I hadn’t
seen in years. I was surprised at the standard of the
demonstrations and the excellence of the stands that had
so many products on offer. Last year I turned up again,
thinking it would be just as good.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
John 'L O F T Y ' Wiseman
Lofty Wiseman served with 22 SAS for over 26 years,
rising to the rank of Sergeant-Major and ran the SAS
selection course and the Survival School, ensuring
that the standards for the SAS remained high. After
he retired, he wrote The SAS Survival Handbook, first
published in 1986, selling over 2 million copies, it has been translated
into 18 different languages and adapted for the Collins Pocket Guide and
iPhone App selling hundreds of thousands each year.
I
was not disappointed, it was even better. I signed so many Once contact has been made, ask for help don’t demand it.
books, programmes and photos that my arm ached from writer’s Depending on what you need some payment may be given. Often
cramp. This year I thought if it was half as good I would be an item of clothing or a knife will be gratefully accepted. Someone
pleased, imagine my delight when it turned out to be even better. may understand a few words of English, but sign language can be
I know the weather makes a big difference to any outdoor activity, used to get what you need. It is always useful to know a few words
and the Saturday I attended of their language and effort should be made when preparing for
was brilliant, I even had to borrow the trip to learn some. A small
a hat. I had so many photographs phrase book is invaluable.
taken, met so many old friends and
made many more new ones. What Often when you start
was particularly touching was signing gesticulating with your
an original well-worn book that had hands you will become
been given to a lad from a friend a source of amusement.
who had died after a long battle Don’t take offence, as this
with cancer. The book had never left is a sign that you have been
his side throughout his illness, he accepted. It’s good to sing
referred to it constantly. I signed it a song, organise a game,
originally in 1986 and was more than or show some tricks to get
pleased to sign it for the new owner. their confidence.

A lot of people asked me if I knew In areas where local labour
so and so and in many cases I did. is used frequently, don’t
It was good to reminisce, bringing overpay any helpers you
back memories and images enlist, as it will lead to trouble
of forgotten characters. What later. There will be a well-
impressed me about the crowd established rate of pay so
was that everyone was so friendly. stick to it. All this knowledge
They talked to each other and should be gained in the
found many things in common. preparation stage. Find out
A lot of people had dogs and this as much as you can about the
was a big topic of conversation. area you are going to travel
Families with children of all ages in. Get to know all the local
all found something of interest, customs and traits. Simple
which is a great achievement gestures we use here can be
these days. It reminded me of offensive to some people.
the words of a song, ‘a stranger Thumbs up is universally
is just a friend you do not know.’ acceptable but the circle made
by the thumb and forefinger that
I find that when talking to people, it’s only a matter we use to signify OK can offend.
of time before you discover you have a mutual friend Don’t take photographs without
or have the same interests. My wife thinks I am nosey asking first. Some tribes think
but I don’t want to die ignorant, so I like talking to that the camera takes away their
people to find out where they live, what they do for a spirits so get their permission.
living and what are their main interests. Most people Never pat children on the head as
respond and you soon assess if they want to talk or many natives consider the head
not. If you treat people how you want to be treated the source of magical power. They
you won't go far wrong. believe that patting it can have
serious, dangerous consequences.
The same things apply when dealing with people If any accident happens to that
in remote locations. The locals know the terrain, child or illness occurs, you will get
water sources and what food is available. They are the blame no matter how long
an invaluable source of knowledge as well as good afterwards it happens.
guides and porters. They can be your best help,
but it all depends on how you interact with them. Wait until you are invited into their
There are some golden rules that must be followed. home and let them indicate where
Always deal with the headman or the recognised you should sit. Don’t stretch out
chief. If you don’t he will withdraw all support and your legs, keep them tucked under
take offence, making things difficult for you. It is you as pointing your feet at a
important when approaching natives to show friendliness, courtesy person can be considered rude. Hospitality is a strong cultural trait
and patience. Don’t make any aggressive gestures and show empty in many nationalities and they will often go without themselves
hands. Take off your pack and smile, showing them that you have to feed you. Try to eat what they put in front of you. Some dishes
no evil intentions. Don’t act scared or give them any reason to fear are an acquired taste, so don’t pile up your plate before testing.
you. Primitive people are shy and may run away. Don’t shout or Eat what you take and then it is acceptable to refuse any more of
attempt to follow them. Sit down and let them approach you. If something that you don’t like. They will make fun of this and take
you enter a village, leave all your equipment behind with the group great delight in your discomfort.
and approach alone.

LOFTY'S LIFE STORIES
Exaggerate your actions; turn it into a comedy sketch. In my day, they don’t want to do. They know what’s right or wrong and what
in the Far East, we were taught to use our fingers to eat and any works and fails. Listen to them, they know best.
way of getting the food into your mouth was acceptable. Rolling
up handfuls of rice in the palm of the hand before squeezing it into Certain areas are taboo and should be avoided. There are burial
your mouth was general sites, which are sacred. Respect
practice that we soon got privacy and never
good at. But in the Middle enter a house unless
East strict etiquette invited, call as you
applied. Only the right approach to attract
hand is used and finger attention. Don’t ogle
bowls are supplied to or touch the women,
wash the fingers each leave them alone at all
time food is taken from a times. Remember you
communal dish. Many a are the stranger and
soldier drank the finger although their customs
bowl, which normally and habits may seem
had slices of citrus fruit strange to you, you are
floating on top, thinking the peculiar one. Don’t
it was some kind of take offence at their
soup. continuous staring or
prying hands. You are
Never make any unique to them and
promises because if you your pale skin and hairy
can’t deliver you will body will fascinate them.
lose all respect. Say you In Sarawak my four man
will try your best and it patrol was made up of
will probably happen. men all over six foot tall.
We had to be very careful when we lived with people in remote We were hairy and
areas, to always honour what we said we would do. We always tattooed, while the villagers were short and smooth skinned. They
said we would try, but left our options open. Because of things out couldn’t get over our pale skin and fair hair. I had a ginger beard,
of our control like the weather, aircraft were cancelled and if we which they stroked at every opportunity. I used to purr initially
promised them an emergency evacuation they would take great then growl when I had had enough, resulting in hoots of laughter.
offence if it didn’t happen. They laughed at our clumsiness as we fell over often, so we turned
this into a farce. On level ground or in the longhouse
Crime is virtually non-existent in remote regions and the we would fall
people very trusting. We had a nasty incident in Borneo over, which
when an infantry patrol took parangs and baskets from a never failed to
village plantation. The locals leave their tools in the field raise a laugh. Be
and the patrol thought they were abandoned. You must attentive when
respect personal property and leave things alone. It’s a great they perform for
temptation to you. This may
pick fruit and take the form
vegetables, of singing and
which are dancing and
growing some childlike games;
distance from be a sport and
a village, join in the fun.
but they do
belong to Learn all you can
someone who from local people,
is depending they are the experts. What do they eat, where do they
on them to get it, how do they light fire and what wood do they
feed their use? Patience is a virtue and will be needed as you try to
family. Always understand. All this knowledge will make your life easier.
ask and offer
payment. Be aware of the diseases that you may catch, as some
Money is indigenous peoples' sense of hygiene is not very good.
worthless in most If you accept tea make sure the water has been boiled.
places so things like cigarettes, matches and clothing are better Peel all fruits and avoid anything you are not sure of without giving
forms of payment. offence. If you tell them it is your custom to always boil your water
and prepare your food in a certain way they will respect this.
Treat your new friends with respect and don’t look down on them.
They may not have a college education but they are very sharp in It is important to leave a good impression as others may follow
picking up vibes and judging character. Don’t laugh or make fun you. Leave any spare rations if possible, while a gift to the
of them. They will be eager to please so try to return a favour with headman wouldn’t go amiss. Be generous but not lavish and
a bigger one. They have an abundance of common sense and if above all be honest. So be nice to each other and try to do a good
they offer advice take it. Don’t bully or push them into something deed every day. If we all do this, the world will be a better place.
WILDLIFE
TRAILCAMERAS
A Little Bit of Tech
Wouldn’t it be interesting to find out what is happening
in your woods or garden when you’re not there? AUTHOR PROFILE:
Pablo
Pablo is a life-long wildlife enthusiast. He has
a military and law-enforcement background
and has a wide range of teaching and training
qualifications. He uses a combination of
bushcraft, tracking and field craft skills to get
close to wildlife. He has tracked wildlife in
various locations around the world including
Southern Africa. Pablo runs Woodlife Trails; a Bushcraft and Tracking
school and Woodlife Social Network, a site dedicated to wildlife, tracking
and bushcraft.
D
espite our best efforts to be part of the forest or woods
and to remain undetected we will always emit a smell, or Trail Cams can also be used to observe activity that we just can’t
create noise or movement that lets other wildlife know we get close to, either because it may be dangerous or it would put
humans are out and about. Most creatures have been hunted and the animal off from doing what you want to observe. A good
persecuted by us throughout the centuries and they will usually example of this is the deer rut. You definitely don’t want to get too
run a mile or keep well concealed when they sense our presence. close to a couple of pairs of clashing antlers in front of a combined
When we’re not there, we know that the woods tend to resume weight of one and a half tons of venison! Also to do so may put off
their normal circle of life without our interference - what we term the candidates at a - shall we say - sensitive moment! You might
as ‘woodlife’. smile at this last statement, but it has been documented that well-
meaning observers and photographers have put off the deer rut so
In the last few years, through these that the actual activity hasn’t taken place,
articles, I have tried to show you how with negative consequences for the herd.
to get close to wildlife and remain
as undetected as possible, but the Animals which are scarce, shy or difficult
simple fact is that on some occasions, to observe in the wild, like stoats and
we just can’t seem to see the weasels, can be captured on Trail Cams,
creatures we might want to see, let assuming you have the tracking skills to
alone get close; so what can we do? locate where they might be in the first
place.
The answer may come in the form
of some relatively recent technology Most Trail Cams these days are
called Trail Cameras. You might programmable and you can either leave
have seen them on some wildlife them to trigger single shots or video
programmes on television and they footage of your subject. You can set
are variously called Camera Traps, it to provide a burst of single shots at
Stealth Cams, Wildlife Cams or Trails regular intervals or a video of a duration
Cams. In this article I will use the term matched only to the memory capacity of
‘Trail Cam’ as this doesn’t infer that the storage media. This storage media
there is a trap of any kind involved. is usually a SD card of the type that fits
As Trail Cams become more available into a normal digital camera. They can
and affordable it is worth looking be easily removed and slotted into a
at them in a little more depth. In PC or laptop computer for viewing and
this article I will try and explain how downloading.
they work, their advantages and
disadvantages and how to set one up
for the best results.
Let’s have a look first of all at why

they are used. The distinct advantage
of Trail Cams is that they work without you being present. You can
set them up and then disappear; checking them at a later date
to see what activity has triggered the camera. Most Trail Cams
have good battery lives, so you can leave them set up for up to
three months and in some cases longer. Of course, not only will
the camera tell you what wildlife is there, it will tell you what isn’t
there; so if you’re expecting a sighting of a rare animal it may assist
in confirming that, together with other evidence, there isn’t such
a creature in your area – assuming you’ve set the Trail Cam up A trial cam set up overlooking a badger sett
properly, which I’ll come on to later.
Most Trail Cams have infra-red lamps (not to be confused with

Passive Infra-Red detection – PIR - explained later) so that if the
camera is triggered at night, you will still be able to see what
triggered it. In this instance the image will be black and white as
opposed to the full colour the cam records in daylight. One of the
varying factors is the quality of the image, so if this is an issue for
you, you may want to check the specifications of the particular
camera. The other factor that affects the price is the time from
detection to activation – called ‘trigger time.’ The quicker the time,
the more likely you will capture a faster moving subject, but the
A fallow deer buck captured during the Rut likelihood is that the Trail Cam will be more expensive.
last year
The size of the Trail Cam unit is important. Trail Cams are getting
smaller and smaller, but some smaller ones may miss out on either
quality or efficiency, so make sure you check the specifications.

WILDLIFE
The Fresnel lens

Personally, I like small Trail Cams as I can carry them around easier
and they are easier to conceal. I’m not too bothered about image
quality. The Fresnel lens is similar (but much, much smaller) to lenses found
in lighthouses. Each faucet of the lens collects the IR information
One disadvantage of Trail Cams is that if you don’t conceal from a different area and focuses it onto the IR Sensor. Although
them properly, they may be liable to theft. It might be an idea to this doesn’t look like a traditional lens (it looks like black plastic)
purchase a lockable strap to secure the camera to the tree or other make sure that it’s kept clean as sticky fingerprints can seriously
object. You will have to factor this in when planning how much to affect the operation.
spend on your Trail Cam.
How do they work?

It might help to know how Trail Cams work. Mis-triggers can often
be blamed on faulty equipment but more often than not it will be
a failure to set up the Trail Cam properly in the first place which
will be the cause. To assist in correct set up, you really have to
know how they work. So here’s a bit of tech!
IR
LAMPS
T
FRESNEL
A diagram of a Fresnel Lens
LENS
T The IR sensor
To help avoid mis-triggers the IR sensor has two or more detection
zones. As the target object passes through, the IR sensor compares
CAMERA the levels of radiation in each zone and if it senses radiation
LENS difference the camera is triggered.
T
If there was only one single sensing element on the IR sensor the
continual fluctuations in the IR received would trigger the camera
BATTERY almost continually.
HOUSING
Setting up
T
Stationary or slow-moving objects moving directly towards the

PIR are harder to detect as they may not move through the zones
created by the lens. Also, the insulating properties of fur and
clothing can also limit the detection rate if IR radiation is similar to
that of the surrounding area. This gives us a couple of tips when
setting up the Trail Cam.
Most Trails Cams use an infra red (IR) detection system. All objects
have a temperature which generates variable infrared radiation at
a wavelength that is beyond visible light. Although IR is unseen
it can be detected. A basic Passive Infrared detector (PIR) in the
body of the camera consists of a Sensor, a Fresnel lens to focus the
infrared radiation onto the surface of the sensor and a miniature
circuit board and relay to activate the camera.
If an object has a different IR radiation (temperature) to its

surroundings it is detected as it passes through the detection
zones created by the Fresnel lens and the camera is triggered.
Let’s have a closer look at these components:

Recommended heights for the size of the animal
Set your camera up and bait an area to attract your
target animal, here two badgers are sniffing out a treat
PIR and detection zones

WILDLIFE
There is no golden rule to the height a Trail Cam should be set at. Alternatively if the camera is placed so that the target enters the
Most manufacturers recommend a height of one to two metres detection zone face on it may not cross from one zone to the
but you can go higher if you tilt your camera downwards to cover next for the sensor to sample the two IR radiations it is receiving
a given area. As can be seen from the diagram the height you set and the animal may not be detected until the last minute.
your Trail Cam is relevant to its detection range.
The best placement of the camera is at a forty-five degree angle
Small creatures may not be detected at the greater limits of the to the expected path of your target. Also a little bribe to keep the
detection range when the camera is placed higher. Larger animals animal in range should pay dividends!
would get considerably closer before detection if the camera is
placed low. There is a danger that, especially at night, the IR lamps As you can see Trail Cams are hugely beneficial to the serious
will “white out” the subject if you are too close to it; so either put tracker or wildlife observer. You can view what’s going on
the Trail Cam slightly further away or cover some of the IR bulbs. without unduly disturbing normal wildlife activity in the woods
and observe activity that you would be unlikely to see first-hand.
To reduce the size of Trail Cameras their PIR units, although However you shouldn’t use Trail Cams to replace your skills
efficient for their size, are only about a quarter of the size of those for getting close to wildlife; rather use them as an addition to
in CCTV and static intruder detectors, so correct camera placement those skills. Also remember it still takes good tracking skills and
and alignment is important to reduce any missed triggers. knowledge of your quarry to find the optimum area to place the
Trail Cam in the first place.
In theory, the ideal position is for the IR Sensor to be set so
that the expected entry of the target into the detection zone Thanks to Roger Free for the diagrams.
is at right angles to it. The problem then is that the target
may continue too quickly through the picture. Although the
camera would be activated there may be no indication of what
triggered it as the animal has already passed out of the frame.
Pablo’s Trail Cam

Tricks and Tips
Don’t set up directly into the sun especially during
sunrise. This may give you a mis-trigger
Make sure any foliage, especially branches and long

grass is moved away from the line of sight. Wind may
cause movement which may cause a mis-trigger
Angle the camera at about 45 degrees to the expected

path of the subject
Don’t put the Cam too low. IR bulbs will bleach out
your subject at night
After setting up the Cam, stand behind it and try to

visualise the area it covers
You can angle your Trail Cam downwards by putting

a stick behind the top of the camera
Put down a little bait (not too much) to keep the

animal in the area for a bit longer
Camouflage the Trail Cam after setting it up

Two wrong ways of setting up the trail cam
Secure the Cam with a lockable strap to prevent theft
Get a second SD card to get continuous coverage so
you don’t miss an important activation while viewing
the current images
Don’t keep coming back to the Trail Cam too often.

Leave the cam in place as long as possible.
Don’t set up Trail Cams in public areas. There may

be a privacy issue and the Cam will be more liable to
theft
Get permission from the landowner before setting up

a Trail Cam
The correct placement in relation to the trail
RECIPIE
THE AUTHOR PROFILE:

Fi Bird
FORAGER'S
Fi Bird is a graduate of St Andrew's University,
mother of six and a past Masterchef finalist
who is self-taught, with a passion for cooking.
Her local food supplies vary from hedgerow,
moors and woodland and with help from
KITCHEN
her family, supper is ‘off the land’. She is a
member of the Guild of Food Writers and in
her spare time she campaigns for healthy diets
and cookery teaching for primary school children.
In the last issue of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

we reviewed Fiona’s new book The Foragers Kitchen, here
Fiona shares some of the recipes that you will find in the
book. The book is structured so that there is information
about the key foraged ingredient and some handy tips on
foraging it.
About Hazelnut
Corylus avellana
Wild Hazelnut and
Colloquial names:
chocolate spread
Lamb’s Tails, Catkin, Cobnut, Witch Hazel, Wood Nut, Filbert
Give the hazelnuts and sugar a wild whiz in a food processor and
the rest is easy. Once you’ve made this delicious chocolate spread
Where to find:
you won’t ever buy another supermarket jar, unless perhaps you
The small hazelnut tree, found in woodlands and hedgerows, also
are a mother of six …
flourishes well on chalky land. It bears fruit in late summer until
midfall.
Makes 1 small bowl
In spring, the male yellow catkins (lambs’
tails) are a sight to behold, but the tiny, red
female flower is needed, too.
What to forage and find:
• 3⁄8 cup (50g) hazelnuts
How to forage and gather: • Heaping 1⁄2 cup (50g) sifted confectioners’ (icing) sugar
• 31⁄2 oz (100g) milk chocolate
Squirrels will usually get to hazelnuts before they ripen and mostly
• 3 generous tablespoons heavy (double) cream
I have to be content with green hazelnuts on my foraging. If you
• 1 teaspoon hazelnut oil
fare better than I do, here’s what to do.
• About 1 tablespoon canola (rapeseed) oil
Gather hazelnuts after a spell of fine weather, so that the outer
husks aren’t damp. Lay them on trays lined with newspaper, and
store them somewhere warm for two weeks, turning them as often
What to do:
as you can remember. Remove the husks and store the hazelnuts in
their shells. As with all wild nuts, they need plenty of circulating air 1. Blend the hazelnuts and confectioners’ (icing) sugar in
or they will go moldy. This is important if you have gathered them a food processor until it is your desired spread texture.
after a period of wet weather. When ripe the shell will fall away
from the nut. To roast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts on a 2. Break the chocolate into a heat resistant bowl that
baking sheet and either bake at 275ºF (130°C/gas mark 1) for 20 fits snugly over a pan of simmering water. When
minutes or at 350ºF (180°C/gas mark 4) for 6–7 minutes, but in this the chocolate begins to melt, add the cream and the
case, watch them carefully blended nuts and sugar. Stir continuously
as they burn very easily. until the chocolate has melted into the
Alternatively, you can dry- crushed nuts.
roast the hazelnuts in a
skillet (frying pan) on the
stovetop (hob), turning
3. Add the hazelnut and canola(rapeseed)
frequently, until the skins oils to bind the mixture—
have cracked. Put the it will become firmer when cold.
roasted hazelnuts in a clean,
damp kitchen (tea) towel, 4. Stir well, and leave to cool before using
and rub with vigor until the in cake fillings, or on toasted sourdough
skins come away. bread, drizzled with canola oil and sea salt.
5. Make only as needed. Do not

How to use: refrigerate, or the chocolate will harden.
Nuts add texture, as well
as being a rich source of
proteins, oils, and fats. I add
finely chopped or ground
Wild
hazelnuts to bread, baking,
and sweet and savory
crumbles. They are good
Notes
raw with cereal, blitzed in
fruit smoothies, or in salads.
Add a tea
Folklore: spread to
spoon of w
smoothie
ild hazeln
ut chocola
The nuts are said to ripen on August 20, the Feast of St Philibert; bitterswe s or hot ch te
et chocola ocolate. U
the hazelnut, also called a filbert, is said to have been named after you could te for grow se
try using ro n-ups. Als
him. asted che o
walnuts in stnuts or
stead of h
azelnuts.
The Brothers Grimm fairy tales suggest that the hazel gives
protection from venomous things, while Druid legend says that
the person who dines on salmon fed on hazelnuts will be wise. You
could, however, just try them with Brussels sprouts on Christmas
day.

RECIPIE
About Douglas Fir What to forage and find:
Pseudotsuga menziesii
* Sprig of Douglas fir, approximately 21⁄2–3 inches (6–8cm) in
length, washed and dried
Where to find:
Douglas fir isn’t a true fir, hence its Latin name; and is a native of * 11⁄4 cups (300ml) light (single) cream
the US. One of the oldest Douglas firs in the UK is planted in Scone
Palace in Perthshire, Scotland. It was brought to the UK in seed * 7 oz (200g) bittersweet (dark) chocolate (minimum 70% cocoa
form from North America by David Douglas in 1826 (David solids)
Douglas was born in the village of Scone).
* 1 medium (small UK) egg
The cones are smaller than other pines, and have interesting,
distinctive “tongues” that protrude between the cone scales. These * 2 teaspoons Douglas Fir Syrup or pine sugar
are rather aptly described above—a mouse diving for cover into
the Douglas fir cone.
The flat, single needles are individually attached to the stem.
How to forage and gather: What to do:

The Douglas fir grows to great heights, but it is the tips of the
1 Put the Douglas fir sprig and cream into a saucepan
Douglas fir that are of interest to the forager. They are rich in
vitamins, and young tips are best. Use these for Douglas Fir Syrup, and scald it over low heat. Do not allow the cream
page 60, and Douglas Fir Chocolate Pots, opposite. Gently pull the to boil. Set aside for an hour to allow the flavor to
tips from the branches and take just a few needles from each infuse, then remove the sprig.
branch to ensure that the tree is not damaged. If you are using
fresh, not dried, leaves, then wrap them in a damp cloth, because 2 Put the chocolate into a food processor and pulse
they dry out quickly. to break it into small pieces. Take care: the machine
may need to be held in place.
3 Reheat the cream (do not allow it to boil). Slowly

How to use: pour the hot cream into the food processor and
The leaves can be frozen, dried, or used fresh. I make pine-needle
pulse, ensuring that the chocolate doesn’t overflow
sugars, tisanes, butter, vinegar, oil, syrup, and cordial, and tie them
in a bunch of bouquet garni to give flavor to stews, soups, and rice. down the sides of the machine. If you don’t chop the
chocolate first, it may do this. So slowly does it.
Heston Blumenthal may have introduced the idea of pine-needle
icing sugar on Christmas mince pies, but my preferred covering 4 Add the egg to the hot chocolate cream, blend,
has a hint of the tropics: mince pies sprinkled with finely ground then add the Douglas Fir Syrup or pine sugar. Pour
coconut and Douglas fir icing sugar. into pots and refrigerate until set.
I grind Douglas fir needles as finely as possible in a mortar and

pestle (it’s tricky to do this in a blender unless you have a
large amount) and store the powder in an airtight jar. Its aromatic
flavor adds interest to many dishes—I often add a pinch when a
recipe calls for rosemary. It’s delicious in hot chocolate, or
smoothies.
Douglas Fir Wild

CHOCOLATE pots Notes
You can a
dapt this e
recipe by asy choco
This is a very rich dessert, so don’t be tempted to use large replacing late pot
another w the Dougla
ramekins. ild herb, o s fir with
syrup. De r flower su
corate wit gar, or wil
desired. S h crystalliz d
erve with ed flowers
I use tiny French chocolate pots. some tast if
y homema
cookies. de
Makes 6–8, depending on size

RECIPIE
Douglas Fir SYRUP

Splash into vodka or gin cocktails, or simply dilute with tonic water.
Makes about 1 ¾ cups (400ml)
What to forage and find:

* 1 cup (25g) Douglas fir
or pine needles, rinsed
in a sieve and patted
dry* (see below)
* Scant 1 cup (200ml) boiling water
* 2 cups (400g) superfine (caster) sugar
* Use Douglas fir, Scots pine, or other edible pine needles
What to do:
1 Put the pine needles in a large,
sterilized jam jar (with a lid) and pour in
the boiling water. Cover and leave for
24 hours.
2 Strain the pine-needle-infused water

into a pitcher (jug).
3 Put the sugar in a clean saucepan and

add the strained water. Heat over low
heat to dissolve the sugar. DO NOT STIR.
4 Bring to a boil for 2–3 minutes until

you have reached the desired consistency.
5 Leave to cool and then pour into a

sterilized bottle and refrigerate. Use
within a month.
Wild
Notes
For green
er syrup, a
washed an dd a table
d dried ch spo
removing ickweed to on of
the boiled ps, after
(Step 4). B syru
lend in a fo p from the heat
strain aga od process
in before or and
cordials a bottling. A
nd syrups, s with all
use refine
d sugar.
Nature makes no
compro mises.
Neither does Helle.
A L DE N
4.5” Curly Birch handle

4” Sandvik 12C27 stainless steel blade
8.5” Overall length
Weighs 5.1oz
Supplied with leather sheath
F O R S T O C K I S T S C O N T A C T:
WHITBY & CO
T: 0 1 5 3 9 7 2 1 0 3 2
w w w. w h i t b y a n d c o . c o . u k / h e l l e

BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET
BUDGET ARM PROTECTOR

All finished!
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Ian Nairn
Make do and Mend' is Ian's Philosophy. He is a dab
hand at all things creative, and would be a match
for any skilled seamstress! His innovative ideas can
save you pounds, showing you how to make kit
from things that you might find lying around. He
also has a long-standing interest in and extensive
knowledge of woodcraft and green woodworking,
which, combined with his other skills, makes for some great
money-saving tips!
Hello again and welcome to another Bushcraft on a Budget I wanted, but only just enough so any mistakes could mean it all
article. In this issue I want to show you how to make a simple went pear shaped. I chose to make a cardboard template first to
but quite classy looking arm protector for archery. iron out any issues. I made a simple design just big enough to
At the Bushcraft Show this year I was lucky enough to strike a cover the “danger” area; you could chose to make yours bigger so
great trade with Chris Brain, the chap in charge of the archery it goes further round your arm if you wish. I had seen some lace up
and from that trade I came away with a fantastic handmade ones and that’s the design I went for.
longbow. So you may have to
put up with a few articles on So draw a design you like
an archery theme as I go about Cut out in card onto card and cut it out, try
making my own archery kit ;-) it for size. I was surprised
that I had to make it much
I
have done a bit of archery shorter than I first thought, as
before and I know that if you when I bent my arm towards
don’t get the hold or draw my shoulder the card was
length correct you can have the digging in at the inside of my
bowstring whip your arm a bit. So elbow joint. After tweaking
I thought I would make myself a it and retesting I achieved
protector. I know if I get everything the desired result. You may
right to start with I won’t need one, find it useful to round off the
but let’s face it they look cool too, ends a bit, the wrist end with
so I wanted one. After doing a bit a convex curve (rising up
of searching I thought a leather towards your wrist)and the
one would look good and give me elbow end with a concave
scope to customise it a bit too. curve (curving inwards away
from your elbow joint). I then
I had some nice leather left over poked some holes through
from the pouch I made some time the card with a pencil and
back. I had enough to make what threaded some thin bungee
Card laced up Checking the
fit
Card on arm Drawing on a

pattern
Drawn on & Pattern complete

Cut out
Lace holes punched
Pattern burnt on
Laced up Wax applied
BUSHCRAFT
BUSHCRAFT&&survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine • 35
magazine• 35
BUSHCRAFT ON A BUDGET
cord through the holes to lace it up on my arm. Once happy with I am sure a good ink would stay on the leather and be fine to wax
the fit and feel, I committed the design to my leather. over but I wanted to make the design a bit more permanent so
I put my pyrography pen to good use and burnt/branded the
When I had drawn onto the leather I cut it out using a very sharp design onto the leather. Once I had done that there was just the
knife. Then I marked out the holes that the lacing would go wax to apply. I used saddle dubbin and just rubbed this into the
through. I punched these out with a leather hole punch going in grain with my fingers until I achieved an even coverage that gave
from the good side. Once this was done I threaded some lacing the leather a nice golden brown colour. Job done and very smart
through the holes and tried it on again. It fit great and was just if I do say so myself. If you are artistic or you have a friend that can
what I wanted. But let’s face it, it looked a bit plain so….. draw, you could put all sorts of wonderful designs on yours such as
oak leaves, birds, foxes or whatever you wish.
The thin bungee cord I had was just plain black and looked a bit
worse for wear so I went on a hunt round the house. I found a coat So I hope you have enjoyed this brief article and that you found
that I seldom wear that had a nice green bungee cord round the it useful and informative. I am looking at making some more
hem, well I never draw the hem cord so it was removed and put archery gear such as a natural bark quiver, homemade arrows
to good use. The draw toggle that was with it would do a nice job and arrow heads from old saw blades like the knife in the last
too as a lock off device. As for the leather itself, I have a little tree issue.
design that I put onto my wood carving work and my tools which
incorporates my initials in the design, so I drew this onto the face So until next time, keep whatever kit you’re making on a budget,
of the leather using pencil first, just in case I made any errors. Once enjoy and have fun.
I was happy with it I drew it on in pen and also drew a border
round the edges. I’m not much of an artist so I kept the design
simple. I was looking at some Celtic knot designs but I just knew I
would make a hash of them, so I left it as is. Top Tip
I know I always go on about keeping things on a budget and not
spending money, well as I said in this article I acquired my new bow
by trading with a friend. Trading is a great way to acquire kit and to
pass on kit you no longer want or use. Rather than selling it, try a trade
with someone else who is into bushcraft. You don’t even need to pay
postage if you work it right; there are meets up and down the country
and shows such as The Bushcraft Show where you can trade with folk.
You could contact people via social networking sites and arrange your
trade before you meet up. I’ve already got a couple more trades on the
cards.
Looks and works great!
PHOTOGRAPHY
PICTUREPERFECT
Part 4 - Creative PHOTOGRAPHY
AUTHOR PROFILE:
This is the last in my series on photography. In this issue
I am going to finish off by looking at several types of
photography in more detail. While I have tried to keep Andy Childs
things easy and manageable, some of the techniques could
be seen as a little advanced, but with some patience and Photographer - ClockworkCloud MEDIA
With photography as a passion and a career,
practice all of these images are achievable by the beginner/
Andy is able to focus his attention to creating
intermediate user with a DSLR/advanced compact camera images Inspired by adventures and nature. "The
and some patience. ability to freeze a special moment witnessed in
E
our amazing world and share it with others is
the drive behind my photography."
ssential equipment
You will need a camera capable of controlling shutter speed
- any DSLR or a good quality compact will work just fine. the image is over exposed, the fire will become just white and
you will not capture any detail within the fire itself, destroying the
Tripod - A tripod is essential for this kind of photography, hand atmosphere of the shot. You will require a shutter speed of 1/4
holding for long shutter speeds is not possible and the end result seconds or slower (some faster speeds will work but 1/4 second
will be just a blur. Whilst it is possible to rest a camera on an and slower is a good starting place). The longer the exposure the
object to keep it still, it is very difficult to get a good composition less detail will be captured within the flame itself as they dance and
as you are forced to use the object where it is, or you end up flicker around. The desired look of the image is essentially down
with awkward angles, (from using the back of your rucksack, for to the individual and there will be a fine line between under and
instance). A tripod offers a full choice of angles and is strong and over exposed results. The beauty of digital is the outcome can be
steady. You don't have to spend big money on a tripod, although instantly viewed and you can experiment until you get the desired
the more you spend will reflect in sturdiness and quality, a cheap result.
tripod from an online auction site will be just fine to capture great
results! (Make sure you check the base of your camera for an Remember that if you are including people in the scene it will be
internal thread to allow you to attach a tripod). almost impossible to get them 100% pin sharp. As you are using a
long(ish) shutter speed any slight movement from a person will be
A remote control (wired/wireless) or camera with self-timer blurred. Don't be put off though as this effect adds to the image
(most modern cameras have a built in self timer option) - using and can give a fantastic result adding even more atmosphere. If
self timer or a remote will make sure the camera is 100% steady your subjects are willing to sit as still as possible for the duration of
when the shutter is released and will not transfer any shake to the the shot (sitting very still for 10 seconds is harder than you think!)
camera. If you use your finger to push the shutter button even if this will result in good sharp images of the subjects but you will still
it is on a tripod, this could still leave you with a blur in the image. get a hint of movement. If you take this approach just take care not
(If you don't have any of these options it is still possible to get to make the pose too 'posed' or the result could look a little odd.
good acceptable results using your finger to release the shutter, Some might find it strange asking their friends/subjects to sit still,
but using the stated options will supply a much sharper result). but if you want this artistic style of shot sometimes you just have
Most cameras offer a self-timer of 2 or 10 seconds, this delay after to do what it takes. Don't be afraid to try some creative angles and
pressing the shutter button gives enough time for any movement also try and include some background/foreground interest, this will
you may have caused to disperse. A remote is essential for the light be illuminated by the fire and have a very warm tone.
painting tutorial as the longest shutter time without a remote is
usually 30 seconds and this is likely not enough. Again these can • Place your camera on a tripod (or on as secure a platform as you
be purchased very cheap from an online auction site. can find).
Also for the light painting section you will need a camera that can • Compose your image, remember to be a little creative and think
achieve manual focusing (again common on many DSLR lenses about the composition to make sure it will work well.
and many modern compacts).
• Set the camera to self -timer or plug in (for wired) or get ready
CAPTURING CAMP FIRES: your wireless remote (if none of these are accessible just remember
to be extra cautious of movement when pressing the shutter).
Capturing a scene around a camp fire and savouring the
atmosphere is an area where modern cameras excel; the warm • Set the camera to manual mode, it is best if you can make all the
fiery glow captured on the faces and surrounding areas as the fast settings yourself for the aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity
flickering flames are frozen in place. These images really do make so this will be manual mode. If your camera won't allow this you
the viewer experience the feeling of warmth. will need to use shutter speed priority mode and this will allow you
to adjust the length of the shutter speed and ISO, the camera will
adjust the aperture accordingly. I can't give you the exact settings
Technique as they will always differ from one specific scenario to another, but
here is a guide.
It is essential to achieve the correct exposure when capturing camp
fires (as with all photography). If the exposure is too short the fire
The longer the exposure the more light and movement the image
will look dull (or even pitch black) and will not be impressive. If
will incorporate, start off with a 0"5 second shutter speed at ISO
In the main shot below I wanted the background illuminated by
500 and an aperture of F5.0 (see your user manual if you
need help accomplishing this). the flames, so to allow enough light onto the background the
actual flames are a little more exposed. This is the only way to
• Autofocus should still work as the flames are very bright. achieve the correct exposure of the background and so I had to
balance capturing the background without losing too much
• Now take the picture (using self-timer or a remote) and fire detail.
take a look at the results. Depending on the results on the
screen you have three main adjustments to adjust your
image. The main questions to ask are "Is the exposure
correct, too light or too dark?" "Is the movement within the • Full manual setting
image what I expected?" If the movement in the fire is too • Shutter speed 6'' Seconds
much and is more of a white blur than a crisp outlines of • Aperture Value F5.0
flames then increase the shutter speed. • ISO 1000
• Full manual setting

• Shutter speed 0"3 Seconds
• Aperture value F4.0
• ISO 1000
In the above shot I wanted to keep maximum detail in the

flames and get a good exposure on the person within the shot.
Note that using a faster shutter speed (just fast enough to stop
blur in the subject) has kept great detail but the background is
black, this keeps all interest on the foreground subject.
If the image is too dark and underexposed adjust the

aperture to be larger (smaller number) to allow in more
light and/or decrease the shutter speed (make slower) to
allow in more light and you can also increase the ISO value,
a high ISO will make your sensor more sensitive and allow
you to capture more light at whatever shutter/aperture
settings are selected. Remember the higher the ISO the
greater the risk of the image looking grainy.
If the image is over exposed do

the opposite, adjust the
aperture to be smaller
(larger number) to let
in less light and/or
increase the shutter
speed (make faster)
and decrease the
ISO.
Be patient, if the results

were very easy to achieve there
would be no challenge in obtaining them!

PHOTOGRAPHY
CAPTURING MOVEMENT IN Technique

WATER • Place your camera on a tripod (or as secure a platform as you can
find).
Capturing flowing water and exposing it to create a soft and gentle
look is a classic and much loved style of photography. • Compose your image; make sure you spend some time on this. It
helps to get down low and be level with the water, but be careful
You can capture this effect on any type of moving water but as being close to fast flowing water and with your mind focused
it is best suited to water that is flowing fast, my favourites are on photography you can easily get carried away, so don't get too
waterfalls, fast flowing rivers around the rocks and the waves close! Set the camera to self-timer or plug in (for wired) or get ready
lapping at the shore. your wireless remote (if you do not have these, just remember to
be extra cautious of movement when pressing the shutter).
The objective is to get the shutter speed to the correct setting
to make the water look smooth, while still retaining some detail • Set the camera to manual mode, it is best if you can make all the
within the flow of water. If the shutter speed is too fast then the settings yourself for the aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity
water will look frozen in motion (this will still look good but it is not so this will be manual mode. If your camera won't allow this you
our objective in this tutorial). If the shutter speed is too slow then will need to use shutter speed priority mode and this will allow
we risk losing all the detail in the water and your flowing water will you to adjust the length of the shutter speed and ISO whilst the
just look bright white (and you might also start losing other detail camera adjusts the aperture. As you will be looking for shutter
in the image). Finding the sweet spot and the correct shutter speed speeds from 1/4 second up to 20 seconds (maybe longer) and you
will take some trial and error (once mastered over time you can will be doing this in the daylight you are going to need to let as
make pretty good starting judgments). little light to the sensor as possible or you will be left with a 100%
white over exposed image! Decrease the aperture to be
very small (a larger number) so let’s say F22 to start with
and decrease your ISO setting to as low as it will go, this
The contrast between the rocks and water help to add a depth will mean there is little light coming through the aperture
when the camera is exposing and the sensor will be at a
to the image.
low sensitivity due to you selecting a low ISO. Then select
a shutter speed of 1/4 second to start with (see your
manual for accomplishing these settings on your camera).
• Take a test shot and take a look at the results on

the back of the camera. It might be perfect or it may
need some adjustment. If the image is too dark and
underexposed the camera will require more light, so add
to this light by making the shutter speed even slower.
If making the shutter speed slower is creating a good
overall exposure but is destroying the movement in the
water by making too much movement, then revert back
to a slightly faster shutter speed and adjust the aperture
to let more light in instead, this will allow more light in
whilst retaining the desired shutter speed for perfect
water movement.
If the image is too bright and is overexposed you will

need to allow less light into the picture. You can do this
by taking the ISO lower (but you may already have this set
Capturing the water at just the right time is essential on a to the lowest setting already) decreasing the size of the
coastal scene. The movement is more subtle than faster aperture (making the number higher, although you may
flowing water. already have this set to the smallest aperture). If these
are both set to their least light values you must increase
the shutter speed to let in less light, keep increasing this
until the exposure is correct. The only danger with this
is that if there is too much light in the sky then by the
time you have increased the shutter speed to gain the
correct exposure you may have lost all the movement
in the water as a result. If this is the case then you might
have to abandon your plans to an earlier/later time of
the day or wait for an overcast day (you won’t have to
The golden hour adds soft warmth to images wait long if you are in the UK!) One way many advanced
• Full manual setting photographers work around this is by placing a dark grey
• Shutter speed 1"6 Seconds (ND - Neutral Density) filter in front of the lens, this lets
in a lot less light and forces a long exposure to create the
• Aperture value F18
image and in doing so allows a slow shutter speed. Even if
• ISO 50
you don't succeed on your first attempt, stick with it as the
results are amazing once you get them!
If the shutter speed is too
long it will result in no detail
in the flowing water
TOP TI
This is a
with on
P
great te
a dull a
chniqu
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creatin nd mur erimen
g great ky day. t
tough a im ages on U sually
s the lig cloudy
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Getting the exposure just right will flowin shutter
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PHOTOGRAPHY
Technique
CAPTURING LIGHT PAINTING • Place your camera on a tripod (or on a stable platform)
Light painting is a very exciting way to create some really unusual
photography and is a great way to get others involved to have a • Compose your image; it is best to shoot wide to get a lot of area
go in your photography. The idea is to use a light source to paint to work in. Don't forget to take into account where you will stand
patterns and shapes on a dark landscape whilst the camera shutter to create the painting and make a mental note (or even place an
is left open and therefore exposing the light’s movement as lines. It object like a twig or stone in the position) where you want to stand
is possible to use any source of portable light to create the patterns to make your painting.
such as torches, lanterns, mobile phones, anything that emits light
and that you can move around easily. The scope to be creative • Decide on what you are going to paint, will it be a specific shape
within light painting is endless. Although it is possible to conduct or just an abstract set of lines?
light painting indoors I find that using the beach, forest, mountains
or any outdoor location adds a great depth to the images. • Set the self-timer on your camera to 10 seconds. This will give you
enough time to press the shutter release and get to your starting
Experimenting with different kinds of light sources and colours will position to start light painting (as long as the final exposure is
be the best way to accomplish your desired image but I do find a under 30 seconds as this is usually the maximum exposure time the
basic LED torch works very well. An essential part of light painting camera will allow without a remote), otherwise fire the shutter from
is to keep fluid with the movements, it is very difficult to draw a remote.
something that you can't see, but moving and flowing smoothly
will help with the final outcome, if you stop or pause for too long • Obtaining focus can be tricky as the overall image will be very
with the light source on then it will continue to expose in that dark and the camera won’t have a bright enough subject to focus
still spot and could easily cause an over exposure on the image. on. The best way to obtain focus is as follows:
As the exposure will be of at least several seconds and as you are
in motion as you compose your light painting the result is that Place your chosen illuminated light source (whatever it may be) on
you disappear from the image and this gives an image free from the ground in the exact spot that you will do the light painting and
distraction, leaving a lot of viewers wondering how it is achieved! facing the camera lens.
Return to the camera and with the camera on

the tripod and the composition composed,
switch on the camera so it is in live view mode
and you can see the image on the camera
screen. It will very likely be black as there is not
enough light in the scene.
Adjust the ISO to the very highest setting it will

go and open the aperture of the lens to the
largest it will go (smallest number). Although
the image will look very poor and grainy on
the screen you should now be able to see your
previously placed light source on the ground in
the live screen.
Now using the screen zoom setting, zoom in

as close as possible to the light on the ground
(this must be the magnified zoom on the screen
and not you physically zooming the lens). Now
using the manual focus it will be possible to get
an accurate focus on that exact light source by
twisting the focus ring on the lens.
Shapes and pattern are a great way to get into light painting, you You must now turn the live view off. Make sure
can create random patterns that look great or you can focus in you do not adjust the manual focus in any way and also be careful
detail on trying to get neat patterns like spheres/orbs, circles and not to move the camera from the spot or lose the position that you
cubes. It is also possible with practice to create shapes such as will be painting from. If you do this then you will lose the focus and
figures of people and animals. will have to start again. Once the live view is switched off and you
have focus set, you will need to adjust the setting to expose the
As well as creating the pattern, choosing the location and picture, the setting you placed before was merely to see the light
accompanying weather will add to the overall light. A clear night source for focusing (using those settings for the actual shot would
will add stars and clouds will add texture or even light if there is a result in a very poor quality image).
nearby town as the light pollution will reflect off the clouds. Snow
also helps reflect light and adds to natural background exposure. This can be a little tricky (and is a bit of a pain to do) to start with
You can add even more light to the scene by actually painting light but practice will allow you to get it quicker and is the only real way
onto the ground and objects. Once you have finished your shape, of obtaining focus in the dark.
use another light source to illuminate the ground or objects around
you. You can use as many light sources as you like and multiple • I would suggest you start with an aperture of around F6.0 a
people can create multiple patterns at a time or one person can shutter speed of 30" seconds and an ISO of 200. Try that and then
create a pattern whilst the other paints the ground and objects you will need to assess the changes needed for your own image as
around them to help illuminate them. conditions will always differ and there is not a magic formula for
this kind of photography.
• Once you hear the shutter open start your painting and use flowing
and smooth motions. If you stop or hesitate at any point, this will be
clearly seen in the image as a bright spot. If it takes you less than 30
seconds (or the length of your chosen exposure) to make your shape/
pattern make sure you switch off your light source and then run out
of shot and let the camera continue to capture the light from the sky
or quickly start your area painting around the scene. As long as you
keep moving around the scene you will be almost invisible in the end
result!
If the image is dark and underexposed then open your aperture to

allow in more light and if this is not possible or your depth of field is
too shallow (see last issue) then increase your ISO to make the image
brighter. You could also make the shutter speed longer and this will
allow for more time to light paint. If the image is too light and over CONCLUSION
exposed you will need to either decrease the ISO, make the aperture
smaller (larger number) or shorten the shutter time, just don't shorten If you are interested in making photography and are willing to
it too much as you won’t have time to complete your painting. put in the time and effort to achieve the results, you will find it is
a great medium to accompany your bushcraft. Like bushcraft you
It is likely you will receive some strange looks by passersby as you will be forever learning and there will always be new avenues to
work in a dark/near dark area and start to wave and spin lights search and learn. You don't have to spend a mass of money to
around yourself. Granted, you will look a little odd but the end results get a camera and equipment, but I would recommend getting a
will be well worth it :) camera that offers manual settings if you are serious about getting
creative, as this will allow you to create images like the ones on
Over the last three mini tutorials I have stated: "until you get the the previous pages. I hope you have learnt something that has/
correct exposure" this can be a little complex and requires the use will help you with your photography and don't forget to keep your
of reading histograms to get perfect accuracy (take a look on a camera at the ready at all times for that perfect shot!
web search engine for explanation), but in your early days the best
solution is if it looks good on the camera screen it generally is good. If You might find inspiration to further your personal
it looks too dark it is under exposed and if it looks too bright it is over photography skills by viewing some more of my work at
exposed and you can adjust as required. www.clockworkcloud.com
An orb shot on the beach after dark. Note that the dotted lights
in the background are from a tractor with a flashing roof light
passing on the road behind. Also note that the strong orange sky
is the lighting from a distant town reflecting off the clouds. The
main orb is created using a red LED and a standard torch lighting
the sand below it.
• Full manual setting

• Shutter speed 90" Seconds
• Aperture Value F9
• ISO 250

Book Reviews Reviewed By Beau Beakhouse
Wild Swimming its strongest asset, but

for functionality and
Price: £14.99 for encouraging wild
Authors: Daniel Start swimming itself, this
Publisher: Guardian Books book does well.
ISBN: 978-0852651223
Having previously been
Daniel Start has a track record for excellent to a few of the locations
handbooks on swimming wild, including Wild which are recorded in
Swimming Coast. This new book is an updated this book, and after trying
second edition of Wild Swimming, with some additional ones
around 300 tucked away locations to swim during reading it, I found
in rivers, lakes and waterfalls throughout the that the directions were
UK. The book was compiled in order to make accurate and the locations
these places more accessible and includes themselves even more
co-ordinates, maps and written instructions beautiful.
to make this possible. The book’s division
into varied sub categories is also very helpful, Areas related to Wild
making it possible to find wild swimming Swimming are also briefly
by area, or by the type of attraction itself. included, with concise
The whole of the UK is covered and the information on wildlife,
locations themselves are varied enough to safety and legal issues.
accommodate anyone who is enticed by the These do not dominate
striking photography. though, and the freedom
that wild swimming
The photographs themselves are one of the strongest features of can bring is maintained. This
this book and encapsulate the destinations at their finest moments. compendium is ideal those who want to find natural and peaceful
On the other hand though, the written content of the book is not places to swim in Britain.
Wild Guide - Devon, England and the locations

are easily found whether on
Cornwall and the foot or by road. One of the
main points about this book
South West is that there are many natural
things to do in England,
Price: £16.99 which are positive and freeing
Authors: Daniel Start, Tania Pascoe and experiences.
Joanna Keeling
Publisher: Wild Things Publishing Ltd The information related to
ISBN: 978-0957157330 the area is very useful. I didn’t
know that in Dartmoor wild
The newest book from Daniel Start, this Wild camping is encouraged, or that
Guide is similar in layout to Wild Swimming fires below the high tide line on
and is a comprehensive and fully researched beaches are also allowed.
guide to the best areas of the countryside
in southwest England. This time the book This book is for anyone who is
is not just limited to the best places for thinking of spending time in the
swimming but includes ruins, hills, beaches Southwest and will encourage
and a large selection of other natural you to explore the hidden places
places to visit. along its coasts and inland areas.
The inspiring photography surpasses even

that in Wild Swimming, and goes to show
how extensive and wide ranging the
natural environments are in the UK.
It’s definitely a book which can be used to plan a holiday destination

WIN A COPY OF THESE BOOKS. WIN
W
or to be taken with you when exploring new places in Southern
Send in your details to win a copy of
one of thse books, detailing which you theIN
se!
would like to win. books!
(see T&Cs p3)& survival skills magazine • 45
45 • BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine BUSHCRAFT
FIRELIGHTING
“Good featherstick
s provide a
FANTASTIC
very certain way
of establishing
a fire in otherwise
potentially
difficult circumsta
nces.”
FEATHERSTICKS
Feathersticks are extremely useful under certain
circumstances. Yet many people who enjoy bushcraft,
survival and outdoor life are not particularly well
practised in this skill. Many books, particularly those
involved with survival training, contain images of what
are often referred to as fuzz-sticks. These are little more
than twigs with a few short, shallow knife cuts made around
them.
AUTHOR PROFILE:
Paul Kirtley, Frontier Bushcraft
W
hen made properly, feathersticks, on the other hand,
provide a very certain way of establishing a fire in
Owner and Cheif Instructor of Frontier Bushcraft
otherwise potentially difficult circumstances.
Ltd. Paul, also a Mountain Leader was previously
Course Director at Woodlore Ltd. He spent 10
The circumstances under which feathersticks are useful come years studying and training under the guidance of
under a couple of categories: first you may be in a situation where world-renowned bushcraft expert Ray Mears, first
all the available fuel in the woods is wet. It may have been raining as a student on his courses, then as an employee.
for days and even dead, standing wood is wet on the outside. Paul is one of only a few people who have been
Small fuel may also be saturated - even the likes of birch twigs recognised by Ray Mears as a bushcraft instructor,
which, due to their oil content, are better than most at resisting a being awarded the celebrated antler-handled
soaking. Woodlore instructor's knife.
The second circumstance under which feathersticks are

particularly useful is when there are no small sticks and, therefore, fine enough feathers at the base of the featherstick, that we may
no small fuel to start your fire. This could be in a situation where drop a spark onto the featherstick to ignite it. Thus, the featherstick
you are within an environment with limited variety of tree species, also provides us with what is commonly called tinder.
or it could be where you are above the tree line or in an area
where there are no trees yet firewood has been transported there. The feathersticks should also inherently provide the next size of
A prime example of this would be in a cabin in the mountains in fuel up from our finest kindling. The body of the featherstick, as
winter, with a supply of logs in the woodshed. opposed to the feathers themselves, provides this fuel. Therefore
the body, that is the stick, should be fine enough that the flaming
A situation much closer to home in which there may be no small feathers will ignite the neck of the stick and so ignite the whole
fuel – much more likely to be encountered by many - is where you featherstick.
are camping in a popular spot where all the small fuel that was
immediately available has been used. I have stayed on many Scout The shavings we are looking for on our feathersticks should be
sites where this is certainly the case. long and fine. You should be aiming to produce a dense bundle of
such high quality feathers.
Another example of this lack of small fuel I’ve encountered is when
making canoe journeys in popular areas – such as the Algonquin You might ask why we don't just produce a pile of shavings? Surely
Provincial Park, Ontario, Canada - where you are restricted to it is easier to shave wood off a stick, then pile it up and ignite it
particular camping sites. Even though these sites can be quite that way? While it's true shavings can be used in the ignition of a
remote, they often have a scarcity of the small fuel that everybody fire - and certainly if you cut off shavings from your feathersticks
will grab first for lighting fires. Many of the people travelling in by accident when you are producing them, you should use them -
these areas do not have basic bushcraft skills, certainly not the use there are multiple advantages to keeping the shavings attached to
of tools in order to produce smaller fuel from the larger pieces of the stick itself.
wood that remain in the camping area.
First, in keeping the shavings attached to the stick we keep them
These situations are examples of where you can apply your off the ground. This is true both initially when we are creating the
bushcraft skills and have a plentiful source of all the useful sizes stick and in producing subsequent curls, they all remain on the
of firewood as a result, whereas an unskilled individual would stick and up off the ground (or the snow).
struggle to find fuel.
Second, the shavings can be moved around in bulk and we will not
It is in these circumstances that feathersticks really come into their lose any. When you are moving or storing the sticks, they are all
own. together. When you come to light your fire, the sticks can be can
be organised easily and quickly.
Feathersticks: What We Are Aiming To Produce…
Third, once you light your feathersticks, the burning shavings can
The aim of a featherstick is to provide us with our initial fuel. This is still be manipulated while they are alight simply because they are
most commonly what is generally referred to as kindling. That said, attached to a stick which you can get hold of at the end and move
we might also produce feathersticks of a high enough quality, with around.
Finally, a key advantage in having the feathers attached to the Once you have selected your piece of standing timber, saw it
stick is that it allows more oxygen in amongst the feathers and the down. Then you should
overall fire lay is not too dense. This is particularly important at the cut up your selected
start of the fire before it becomes established. Should you need to wood into sections that
allow even more oxygen into the initial beginnings of the fire, you are 12 to 14 inches (30
can lift up individual feather sticks in just the same way as you can to 35 cm) long.
lift up bundles of twigs in the typical small-stick fire lay.
Now that you have
By contrast, a pile of shavings, particularly short shavings as these rounds - and
opposed to long curly shavings, is relatively difficult to light I suggest you have
compared to good feathersticks. It is also very difficult to at least three of this
manipulate in any useful way. length as a minimum -
you can begin to split “In the
the wood down into absence of
Material Selection suitable sizes. The an axe, use
aim is to cut it into your knife
As with many things in bushcraft, the ultimate success of the
multiple sections to and a baton
application of a particular technique - at least the quality of the
gain all the fuel that to create
outcome - is to a large extent dependent upon good material all the split
you need - including
selection. This is certainly true when making feathersticks. wood you
your feather sticks
- to establish your need”
fire.
So what materials should you look for?
As with any good firewood, the ideal raw material for feathersticks
is dead, dry, standing wood. You want wood that is well seasoned, In the absence of an axe, the technique to use is batoning. This is
in good condition and not rotten or punky. a common and often used technique of basic bushcraft – one with
which you should become fully familiar, if you are not already.
You should be looking for upright timber of a particular dimension:
you don’t want to be splitting out large trees, particularly if you Stand the sawed round of wood vertically on its end on a
only have a knife. It should be feasible to easily baton the material stable surface such as a chopping block or log. Place your knife
with a typical bushcraft knife. In other words you are looking for horizontally on the top end of the log with the handle as close to
maximum sizes of maybe 3 inches (i.e. 7 cm) in diameter. Also, you the wood, leaving as much of the tip of the blade protruding on
do not want wood that is so small in diameter that persistent rain the far side as possible.
will have penetrated far into the wood. So you are looking for a
minimum diameter of around 2 inches (i.e. 5 cm).
“You can produce all the
Species that work particularly well for feathersticks are pine, sizes of fuel you need
to
willow, cedar, and sweet chestnut. establish your fire”.
In terms of the quality of the wood that we are looking for, I will
reiterate that it needs to be dead, dry and well seasoned. In my
experience, people
can get lazy with
Place your knife
applying these horizontally on
top end of the lo
criteria strictly and g with the handle
as close to the wo
end up making od and hammer
with the baton.
sub-optimal
feathersticks (i.e.
they don’t work).
Equally, the wood
should not be too It may be worth creating a small
soft or punky, i.e. wedge before you hammer the knife
too rotten. into the wood and potentially get it
stuck.
The wood you
select should Once you're ready, hammer the blade
also be straight- into the end of the round until the
grained and back of the blade is flush with the top
preferably knot free. To surface of the wood. Now proceed by
a large extent you can get a good idea of how knotted a piece of hitting the tip of the knife with your
wood is just by looking at the outside bark. Because you are going baton while maintaining pressure on the handle so as to keep the
for relatively small diameters, any external knots will likely carry a blade horizontal. The wood should split relatively easily.
good way into the grain of the wood. Try and choose sections of
wood that are relatively free of side branches or the remnants of For your feather sticks I would recommend quarters from wood
them. that is relatively small - say 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter - and,
possibly eighths for wood that is a larger diameter than this.

FIRELIGHTING
After prolonged or heavy rain, the outer surface of even vertically upright
wood may well be damp. Once you have batoned out the splints that
you require, you should shave down the outer surface removing the bark
and any damp layers of wood that lie beneath, until all you are left with
is dry wood.
Split the rounds down into Techniques For Creating Fantastic

quarters or eighths depending Feathersticks
on their diameter
For those who have tried to make feathersticks in the past, the part of
the process that they often find most difficult or frustrating is starting the
featherstick. Getting going and producing good long curls consistently is
reliant upon creating a good foundation in the first place.
Shave off the damp
outer layers as To create this foundation for all your curls, do not worry too much about
necessary creating good curls for the first few cuts. Rather, what you should
concentrate on is creating a good even surface, which can then be
shaved down into nice even curls. What you do not want is a raggedy
edge or a lumpy-bumpy surface that looks like a washboard road, then
try to create nice smooth shavings from it.
Start by aiming to plane the surface that exists after you have split out
your rounds of wood to the desired size. Start on the inside edge, that
is the edge that is sharp - and will also be dry even after the heaviest of
rains. Even though this has been split out quite nicely by your batoning
technique, it will still be potentially relatively uneven.
Place the splintered wood on a firm surface in a vertical or near vertical

position. Holding it with your non-knife hand at the top, take your knife
and place it below your fingers, turning the knife inwards so the edge is
turned towards the wood. If you're using a flat-bevelled knife you can
achieve the angle relatively easily; turn the knife so that the bevel is flat
against the wood.
Push the knife downwards so that the blade descends. As you do so,
turn in the knife towards the wood a fraction more and you should start
to take off small shavings of wood from the high points. To reiterate, it
is not important that these stay attached. You are simply levelling the
Start to shave off raised or surface on which you are going to work. If you have ever used a plane
rough sections which make think of this initial action in this way.
the wood uneven
After your first descent of the piece of wood, return the knife to the initial
starting point and repeat the process, shaving off more of the remaining
high points. Repeat this process until you are left with a smooth surface
to work on.
Now, repeat the step as described above but this time with the intention
of creating one continuous, even shaving from the beginning of the cut
downwards to nearly the bottom of the stick.
The part of the blade you should be using for this is the straightest part
of your bushcraft knife blade which is close to handle. Here you have
After a few runs down the
most control and least leverage on your wrist. Push the knife downwards,
stick, you will have a much
maintaining an even depth into the wood, creating a nice even curl.
more even surface to work
Initially this is easier said than done.
from
Do not get too stressed about losing curls at the beginning of your
learning curve. It happens to everyone. The thing you should be
Now shave steadily concentrating on is getting a feel for how deep or how shallow the edge
downwards to create a nice, of the knife is shaving the wood, then making minute adjustments to
even curl maintain an even cut. This takes practice but you will soon pick up a
good feel for the type of wood that you are using, combined with the
sharpness of the knife you are using.
It goes without saying that your knife should be as sharp as possible.
Once you have started to create a few good downward shavings, you
Placing the stick
on a firm surface
,
work downwards
will find that the bottom of the stick starts to become a little crowded. with your knife
The common mistake made here by many people is to finish cuts creating
progressively higher up the stick on each descent with the knife. The shavings
problem with this is that the curls are not then all adjacent to each other
and you will find them harder to light. Also you will not achieve as thin
a body of the stick because you will not have shaved off as much along
the complete length. If you need some more space at the base of your
featherstick simply use the side of your knife to push the shavings down
and away from the body of the stick, leaving more space behind for
additional curls.
Once you have started to get a good feel for the basic downward shaving
motion, you can add some variation into this. What you do not want to
be doing is creating shavings all around the base of the stick. You actually
want them all on one side of the stick, in a nice arc of about 180°.
The basic downward shaving action will create curls that are pretty much
in line with the stick and at right angles to the blade of your knife.
You should
To put curls on one side or the other of the central curls you can change be aiming to
the angle by raising or lowering the tip of your knife as you cut. create a 180
degree arc of
Start with your knife on the stick close to the handle and turn the tip of curls on one
the knife upwards. Now shave downwards and slide the blade across the side of the
face of the featherstick as you descend. This will create a tightly curled featherstick
shaving, which moves out towards tip of a knife.
Once you have created a few of the above with the tip up, go back to
shaving down the central part of the stick with the knife held horizontally
so as to create some more shavings in the middle. Then, place the knife
at the top of the stick again, this time with the tip facing downwards and
the initial point of contact with the blade closer to the tip. Shave down the
featherstick again, moving the handle of your knife towards the stick and
cutting across the face of the feather stick as you descend. This will create With the
a curl that moves towards the handle of your knife and fills in where there knife tip up,
are no curls. curls move
off towards
Create a few of these curls then go back to the central curl, then go back the tip
to the point-up curls. And so on.
In varying the techniques like this you will create a dense and even
bundle of excellent curls at the end of your feather stick.
With the knife tip
To get the curls all at the end of your featherstick, remember that you
down, curls move
must start and finish your curls at the same place on the stick each
towards the
time. Do not fall into the trap of starting further and further down the
handle
feather stick. Nor should you, as mentioned above, finish each curl at
progressively higher points up the stick. Either way, curls will become
shorter and less curly each time, they will not sit next to each other on the
stick and you will not achieve a thin enough neck that will ignite from the
flames of the curls.
Practice Makes Fantastic

Practice making feathersticks when the going is good and the technique
will serve you well when things get tougher. You should be aiming to not In varying the angle and making sure you start and
only be able to make feathersticks, but to make them quickly. finish in the same places, you end up with a dense
bundle of curls at the end of your featherstick
While making feathersticks may be quite a frustrating pastime at first, as
with many aspects of bushcraft, the more time and effort spent to become
proficient, the more likely it is that the particular technique becomes a
realistic one in a situation where you really need to depend upon it.
Besides, the next time you are camping with your friends and there is
little firewood around, you can impress them by producing everything
you need from an unlikely piece of wood and dazzling them with your
fantastic feathersticks.

Book Reviews Reviewed By ELAINE GILBOY
Children Learning Outside Each chapter refers to recent educational research and the theory
is discussed in a practical and easy to understand way. There are
the Classroom: From Birth a number of case studies in each chapter, with points of practice
to Eleven and thoughts on theory that ask the reader questions
relating to the topic, so that the book can be used for
Price: £22.99 continuing professional development if desired. The
opening and closing chapters on the value and purpose
Authors: Sue Waite
Publisher: SAGE Publications Ltd of outdoor learning are particularly strong, written by the
editor Sue Waite who is a research fellow at the University
ISBN: 978-0857020482
of Plymouth. Her introduction includes an excellent
example of an unsuccessful outdoor learning activity. The
This book is a useful text aimed
at teachers and childcare activity was intended to explore forces by investigating
push and pull in the local playground, but the teacher
professionals. It is divided into
was nervous of leaving the ‘safe’ haven of the classroom,
three sections; Section One has
chapters dealing with different so the learning objective was not communicated properly
to the children who were instead told all about how they
aspects of outdoor learning in
Early Years education and is should not behave at the park. No meaningful learning
took place, while the perceived division between the
true to its title by including an
interesting chapter on ‘Crawling structured learning of the classroom and the free play of
and Toddling in the Outdoors’. the outdoors was enforced. This example prompted a wry
Section Two examines learning smile! This book provides plenty of positive alternatives
outside the classroom as it can for teachers to implement in educational settings. Waite
be applied to the primary school persuasively advocates a process of consultation with
children themselves, parents and teachers and with the
curriculum, with six chapters divided into broad
subject areas, so as well as English and Language, Mathematics local community to generate ideas, draw in further expertise
and Science and Technology, the Humanities, the Arts and Physical and better allow what is being learned ‘outside’ to be naturally
transferred into the regular ‘inside’ school context.
Education are also represented. Section Three has perhaps the
most interest for the bushcraft enthusiast, with chapters on School
Gardens and Forest Schools, and Environmental Education in “Additional incite for a bushcraft instructor, scout leader or forest
school leader working with children”
Exmoor’s National Park.
Forest School and Outdoor communicating with parents and Forest School in other countries.
Learning in the Early Years Chapter Six ‘Participating in Forest School’ is excellent, providing
almost a template of how to establish and run a Forest School based
by Sara Knight on the author’s own experiences. There are
descriptions of what is required for a Forest
Price: £21.00
School location, whole blocks of Forest
Authors: Sara knight School typical sessions and photocopiable
Publisher: SAGE Pubications Ltd pages with risk assessment forms. This
ISBN: 978-1446255315
practical hands-on approach follows into
the next chapter with specific suggestions
This book is a new updated edition of Knight’s
of activities and equipment to get the Forest
earlier book, published in 2009. At 160 pages it School ethos into childcare settings, illustrated
is 80 pages shorter than the Children Learning by photographs. It would be worth buying the
Outside the Classroom book, but is in a similar
volume for these chapters alone.
format and by the same publisher, so it also
includes tools for professional development I found the final chapter on Research into
such as chapter objectives, case studies Forest School outcomes quite heavy going.
and discussion points. The title is a little
This section is overly technical and unnecessary
misleading in that the book is focused more in a book aimed at those already converted
on Forest Schools than on outdoor learning
to the benefits of Forest School. I would have
as such. It opens with a discussion of why
preferred more space for further Forest School
and how the Forest School movement case studies, which are a real strength of the
began. Chapter Two is particularly strong, book and it is no surprise this book has reached a
there is a thought provoking discussion of what
second edition.
defines a Forest School, with these points then illustrated in
extended case studies comparing best practice in several successful
Forest School settings. Other chapters include the impact of Forest
School on children’s’ health and wellbeing, the importance of WIN A COPY OF THESE BOOKS.
Send in your details to win a copy of
one of thse books, detailing which you WIN!
would like to win.
(see T&Cs p3) WIN
CANOE FORAGING
Tim Gent
CANOE Happiest living in a tent somewhere close

to both sea and mountains, Tim paddles
and clambers in search of our remaining
wild and inspiring places, documenting
FORAGING
these experiences so that others might be
encouraged to follow. A very enjoyable role
of course, but one also undertaken in the
belief that a better understanding of these
fragile landscapes might offer the best chance for their survival, and ours.
Truth be told, a fair number of the potential delicacies that can be collected by canoe
aren't really worth the effort. While they may be edible and most won't do you any
harm, they either taste grim, or take forever to boil, bake or mash into something
vaguely palatable. Even lashings of melted butter and garlic do little for limpets, for
example. Fortunately though, this still leaves plenty of tasty morsels that are very definitely
worth seeking out and a canoe makes an ideal vessel to help in that search.
T
his shouldn’t come as a surprise of course. Amongst the numerous roles given to a canoe by its
original creators, assistance in fishing, foraging and hunting was almost certainly to the fore. A
canoe could transport you to a remote bank, beach, bay or island that had either escaped the
Photographs: Tim and Susannah Gent
predations of other hungry humans, or just happened to provide the best environment for the healthy growth
of plant, fish, fowl or beast. This was vital to early hunter-gatherer communities, and while few of us are likely to
starve today if we can’t find an untouched bed of mussels or woodland packed with ripe pecan nuts (OK hazelnuts!),
we can still benefit from a touch of foraging ourselves. Not only is the chance to rekindle some of these ancient skills
enjoyable and valuable in itself, but the results can be pretty pleasant too.
So what's on offer to the peckish canoeist? Well at first glance the inland hunter-gatherer may seem to be at no great
advantage from being afloat. With such seemingly unexciting water-edge snacks as bulrushes on the menu, you might
feel it worth staying on shore. But then a canoe can also take you to islands dotted with untouched cep, chanterelle,
blackberries or wild garlic. It can also propel you to quiet and overgrown sections of lake or river, inaccessible to the
land-tied forager or angler. In the same way that the canoe once provided access to areas beyond those picked bare
by the hungry pedestrian, today it is possible to reach virtually unvisited sections of shore where elderberries and even
rabbits and trout flourish untouched.
Despite all this, it is along and
just off the coast that I devote Canoe assisted foraging I imagine that if you fancy the idea
most of my foraging efforts. of casting a float, weight or fly from
a canoe you’ve already given all this
Once an inbuilt love of the sea fishing malarkey a good go. In terms
is taken into account, there of tactics everything is therefore fairly
are probably three reasons for simple, and you can pretty much just
this. Firstly, although I enjoy keep doing the same thing, only with a
eating trout and even carp, pleasant paddle at either end.
eels and pike, I’d far sooner put
something finny on my plate You also know how to handle your
that has spent it days in the craft, or should do. Canoes can be
salty stuff. Secondly, I can go tricky little whatsits for a beginner to
in search of bass, mackerel or handle at the best of times, without
plaice without worrying about introducing a rod to the slightly out of
rod licenses or permits. If you control mix.
wish to fish on a river or lake One solution though - and as much a
(which will belong to somebody, A good fishing platform. Spinning for bass benefit to the experienced paddler/
or at least the fishing rights angler as the novice - is to set out to
will) you will need both a rod catch fish with an assistant. Casting
licence (available from the Post with one hand while steering with
Office and most fishing tackle another can be testing (if ultimately
shops) and permission from the rather fulfilling when it works), but
owner (almost always at a cost). sitting or kneeling and thinking about
Sea fishing is much more easy- fish, while a co-pilot sits or kneels
going. For the moment at least while thinking about wind-direction,
(and long may it continue) there currents, tides or approaching jet-skies,
is no need for a rod or fishing is much the better plan. Of course you
licence on tidal water – unless can both fish, sharing angling pleasure
fishing for salmon or sea-trout. and lookout duties.
All this freedom suits me and
while you can pick and gather One useful alternative for the solo
all manner of wonders inland, paddle-fisher is either to find a spare
that fishing needs paperwork. buoy to tie up to for a while, or to
The third reason I tend to head Baiting lines on Loch Hourn use an anchor. I like buoys, but those
for the coast for wild food is the little umbrella type anchors do the
appallingly limited access to our job well and store out the way when
rivers and lakes. Only 3% of river not needed. One word of warning
miles in England and Wales are though. Everything may seem very
available to canoeists. calm before you drop anchor in any
The maritime delicacies on sort of current or tidal movement,
offer to the coastal canoeist but once those flukes bite, and the
can be broken down into five canoe is suddenly held taught and
basic groups – fish, shellfish, skittish at the end of a straining rope,
crustaceans, plants and seaweed. things can sometimes turn a little too
interesting. The closest I've come
In fact, the successful collection to genuine concern in a canoe was
of not one of these is dependent trying to weigh anchor off Instow
on a canoe, least of all the plants on the north Devon coast while a
and seaweed. That said, the powerful ebb tide tried to climb over
canoe’s ability to move you off the side of our shuddering craft.
the beaten track (literally) has
its benefits, as mentioned. They But enough of self-inflicted and
certainly make the effort more avoidable alarm, what about my usual
fun. canoe-supported angling experiences?
Well I'm pleased to report the fishing
Fish can be caught from the has been pretty good. I've found that
shore of course, but in my my craft of choice makes a very good
experience the results are often platform for fly-fishing, spinning,
much better even only a few trolling or use of a float or ledger.
yards beyond the usual casting While usually a sea (the protected bits
distance. Fancy beach-casting at least) or estuary angler, I do also
rods can be abandoned in favour fish in lakes and rivers. Catches have
of shorter lighter versions, or included brown trout, grayling, sea
even a simple handline. The cost and frustration of tackle lost to trout, pollock, mackerel, flounder, perch, bass, plaice, oh and a
weed or rocks can also often be avoided by the simple expedient of weaver fish (but the less said about that the better). The loss of a
paddling just beyond them. fine Swedish arctic char was my fault not the canoe's.

CANOE FORAGING
In terms of tackle, while a truly fun, the handline frame can't make
vast amount can be dropped it past the karabiner. This saves fish,
into your load-carrying canoe, tackle and tempers.
most of the fish I've caught have
been taken on a simple handline. For the gathering of all sorts of
It’s almost routine for us to offer edible plants, seaweeds and shellfish,
something gaudy, trolled on the the canoe can take you to the best
end of a line as we paddle from and hopefully least gleaned spots.
one beach to another. Left to Importantly, a canoe can also take you
their own devices these little away from the homes of other human
eye-catching (if you’re a fish) foragers. Particularly in the case of
contraptions can often improve shellfish, but even with seaweeds,
dinnertime. Canoe cruising Keeping it simple. A typical handline setup this can be very useful indeed and
speeds seem well suited to your insides will thank you for it.
attract pollock, mackerel and Wonderfully tasty as many shellfish
bass, but sea trout and plaice are, they do tend to have one rather
feature amongst other fish that troublesome characteristic. As filter
have fallen to a trolled spinner
Trolling for mackerel off the feeders, or in the case of dog whelks
or lure. Space is lacking to do Devon coast for example, feeders on filter feeders,
justice to the more intricate these little beauties may taste good,
details of fishing from a canoe, but can occasionally come packed
but I will offer these suggestions with all the unpleasant stuff we
for successful and easy trolling. continue to chuck into the sea. This
can include some worryingly virulent
Take a standard handline (the and unwanted dieting aids and
lurid combination of orange even such nasties as heavy metals
plastic frame and braided line and organophosphates. The further
available at so many seaside your foraging patch lies from human
shops will do, but it’s easy and habitation the better.
fun to make your own), tie on a
brass swivel and loop a largish If that hasn’t put you off (and it
stainless steel clip through the shouldn’t as good clean locations for
eye now tied to the braided line. wild food collecting are still plentiful
This clip can be used to hold and easy to find), your canoe can now
a lead weight of suitable size carry your spoils back to the pan or
(down to experiment I'm afraid). van. You might even choose to eat
Attaching the weight here also some before arriving and there can
holds the swivel steady to ensure Setting a shrimp net be little more satisfying, (at least to a
a twist free fishing line. Tie a simple mind like mine) than building
good long length of stoutish a small fire from beach-combed wood
monofilament to the free swivel in some secluded bay before cooking
eye (say 10-15 lb breaking strain) the results of your little forage. I think
and then add a lure to the my favourite beach meal to date must
remaining loose end. Having be bass wrapped in tin foil, their gutty
worked my way through much bits replaced with wild fennel from the
that’s on offer, I keep returning overhanging clifftop (note – a good
to silver Mepps or brass Toby knife and a roll of tinfoil are always
lures. worth having about your person. Oh
yes, and a lemon).
Once afloat, and in deep enough
weed-free water, chuck it over Mind you there was also a very good
the side – holding on to the brown crab, caught close to a low cliff
frame! Now here are the useful near Torquay. This was memorable
bits. To leave your hands free,
Laver and perhaps not so much for the resultant
after letting out a good length bacon burgers. meal, which was very good, as for
of line (experiment again), put Ok, so the we seeing Susannah race to win her
the frame under your foot. And didn't collect tasty prize. We'd spotted this rather
to ensure that the whole lot the oats and ample crustacean pottering amongst
doesn't go over the side if you bacon the seaweed across a narrow rock
hook something interesting, clip platform about four or five feet down.
the line above your foot through The problem was so had a large grey
a large climbing karabiner, itself seal swimming through deep water
attached to a thwart (to those in alongside. Susannah took one look
the know, an old HMS is good). at the crab, another at the seal (which
Even if your foot comes off the made the mistake of hesitating) before
frame during all the paddling she was in - resurfacing moments
later with her catch. I'm not least in any summer. And it might be worth
sure whether the look on the attaching a label to your marker-buoy or pot
seal's face showed surprise or explaining this, and the fact that you are only
admiration. If bass and brown after something for your own table. Sadly, this
crab don't do it for you, perhaps may still not stop a pot disappearing if you set
the following fare will – cockles, it out of sight. I suggest laying it within view of
winkles, shrimps, prawns, the your campsite or afternoon picnic spot.
lovely and underrated razor clam
and lobster. And so to the ludicrously complicated matter
of rules and regulations. You may think that
Many edible coastal plants and anything on the shore, or just off it, is fair
seaweeds take some cooking, game, but it's not as simple as that. For a start
but small amounts of the fresh all shore or beach is owned by someone –
new growth from sea purslane, although free access is usually accepted (and
sea beet or perennial wall rocket now enshrined in law in bonnie Scotland). On
can make a good addition to a the other hand, anyone who tells you that
salad. Gutweed may not sound any form of foraging is unlawful has also got
very appetising, but is worth the wrong end of the stick. The truth lies
the effort (just), while dulse, the somewhere between the two, wrapped up in
easy to identify red seaweed, all sorts of legal fuss that only British lawyers
is simple to collect and cook could sustain, further complicated by various
(steam lightly) and really is very regional and local rules and bylaws.
enjoyable. Laver, or 'what a Picking Dulse
paLaver' as it is known in the What I can say is that collecting
family, tastes pretty plants is fine. Assuming
good (although not you only cut off a little of
all agree), but unless Bringing one in to the side each, don't damage them
you have a range or dig anything up, (which
idling away in the rules out sea holly roots for
kitchen, it is pretty example) and you leave rare
hard to justify as a things such as wild cabbage
meal considering the alone, (well perhaps the very
vast amount of fuel occasional leaf), plants are
needed to cook it on the menu. Seaweed is
properly. a grey area, (which doesn’t
sound appetising). While
Lovers of a variety of plant collection is fine under
crustaceans will enjoy common law and statute,
the ease with which (fruit, fungi, flowers and
their canoe will put foliage are in), seaweed isn't
them in touch with classed as a plant in law,
remote and rarely foraged at least in the matter of collection
shrimp and prawn homes. (metaphorical throwing up of hands).
All that's needed is a suitable Collecting shellfish is classed as
net. A canoe really comes fishing, and therefore permissible
into its own when used to Preparing to cook within tidal waters. Watch out
transport a pot or two to a the results of a though, bivalves such as oysters
quiet location. Proper crab good day's fishing and clams, even mussels, are often
and lobster pots are fairly grown within private fisheries. It's
big, but you'll easily get at best to check. While you're at it, find
least one in. Prawn pots are out if there are any local bylaws, and
smaller, especially the canoe- check the minimum size limits, closed
friendly collapsible versions. seasons and even net mesh sizes for
Not forgetting that prawns shellfish and crustaceans. These too
won't be found in close to can vary from area to area. Size limits
the beach until late spring, and other restrictions also apply
and gone again in autumn, a (quite rightly) to many fish, not least
well-placed pot can provide the hard hit bass.
a satisfying meal.
And while aware that I could put you
Remember though that off trying any of this foraging and I
there are a shrinking number really don't want to, I must mention
of hard-hit fishermen trying the risk of poisoning. Sadly, this is
to make a living from these no idle threat and people really do
tasty wee (and not so wee) manage to inflict some nasty mischief
beasties. Try not to use any on themselves every year, even those
spot more than once, at that should probably know better.

CANOE FORAGING
Mistaking hemlock water-dropwort for innocent tasty alexanders, true calling. Free food can be yours, and extremely good food at
for example, is a mistake you'd probably only make once. So that. If you don't have a wild food specialist amongst your friends,
the old adage – eat only things that you are absolutely certain the next best approach for increased safety and fun is a collection
about – is one well worth adhering to. The best way to gain this of good books. If you refer to these constantly and leave anything
knowledge is to spend a fair bit of time in the wild with someone you are still even vaguely unsure about, you really should be fine.
who knows, (really knows), what they are about. We bought Food for Free, written by Richard Mabey, back in the
'80s. It's a good place to start. Ray Mears (you may have heard
After all this I must stress that the pleasure to be had from of him) can always be relied on. Finally, John Wright's Edible
collecting your own food from the sea edge is well worth it, Seashore is a star and I wish I'd had a copy in a dry bag years ago.
particularly if you have given your canoe a chance to shine in its
A FEW ADDITIONAL
HINTS AND
SUGGESTIONS:
Carry lots of bags to avoid everything getting
mixed up – plastic keeps everything in the canoe
dry, but isn't always the best thing for your catch
(fabric bags can breathe).
A big plastic bucket is very useful to put your

bags in (empty or full) – and also makes a good
baler.
Pollack from Narvik Fjord
A knife or scissors are good for seaweed
collection, (if you leave the stem and only take
some of the fronds, they can grow you another
meal). Mind you, as you are probably rather fond
of your knife, which might also have been quite
expensive, remember to wash it off in fresh water
as soon as possible – or use something cheap
instead.
In the same vein, try to take only a small

proportion of any wild food - and find out about
size limits and closed seasons, (for fish and
shellfish).
With shellfish, stick to the old 'only collect when

there's an R in the month' adage (and because
canoeing needs you, learn how to clean your
shellfish before cooking).
At the risk of going on a bit – keep an eye on the

tide.
And once again for good measure – if you're not

sure, please don't eat it.
BUSHCRAFT&
BUSHCRAFT &survival
survivalskills
skillsmagazine 57
magazine••57
HOW TO
MAKING YOUR OWN ATLATL

For this month’s project I thought we would take a look at
the build, history and technology of an ancient weapon, AUTHOR PROFILE:
Jason Ingamells
the Atlatl. At first glance this historically important
weapon, which developed after the thrusting spear and
the throwing spear but which predates the bow and arrow Jason Ingamells needs little introduction,
looks like quite a simplistic weapon, however its simple renowned as one of the UK's leading authorities
complexities are fascinating. on bushcraft skills and owner of Woodland Ways.
This weapon helps to demonstrate that our ancient Homo He takes pride in teaching to the highest standards
Sapien ancestors were really very little different to our on courses at home, abroad and mentoring his
modern day selves, and once again belies the “primitive” staff. Jason writes on the subject in books and
label that we are beginning to understand is not an magazines and is a highly skilled woodsman and overseas adventurer. His
accurate reflection of ability. skills have been gleaned through extensive personal applied experience,
practicing and developing these skills in real circumstances.
I
often find myself around the campfire with my instructors
hypothesising about how such items were conceived, created
and utilised. Regularly I find as a team we start with what we species and indeed our own”. There is no doubt that the ability
know and then one or two of us will take the process further to kill prey from a distance helped us to become top of the food
and re work and re work until we have made such fine tune chain in history, particularly for a species such as ours that cannot
improvements, ultimately going on to devise something better sprint for long distances. It has to be said though there are many
than we could alone. arguments put forward for the success of our species’ evolution
and none can be evidenced in isolation as the turning point.
Now through my own observation of my team, I can imagine our However the significance of the ability to target at speed with
ancestors doing exactly the same sitting around the fire. accuracy and at a distance cannot be ignored.
“I have a spear… But it’s hard to get close to prey with consistent
results. I need to be able to propel this spear further. I have I alluded to the fact above that not all commentators agree
produced this launcher, it increases the distance of the throw but with the terminology of the Atlatl as a “spear thrower”, the most
not with great speed or accuracy. I’ll thin and increase the length well known being Professor William Robert Perkins. An expert
of the (now) dart, It seems to work better with the launcher at 1/3 on the history of the Atlatl he argues that a spear is a rigid shaft
of the length, it’s still slow, a bit of flex in the dart increases the for throwing or thrusting and as the dart which is ejected from
speed initially, how about a bit of flex in the launcher, what about a the Atlatl must be thin and allow for flex calling it a spear is an
weight here… etc.” inaccurate description.
Now although this dialogue is fiction it nonetheless represents The mechanics of the Atlatl
a process of development that may well have taken place, albeit The accepted line of thought as for the advantages to the use of
stretched over generations. the weapon, with or without the weight, is that the Atlatl allows
for a greater accuracy and speed over a long distance than the
So what do we actually know as FACT? throwing spear, through its mechanical advantage. Although I
have never had the ability to record my own speeds there are
As with most items in the archaeological record, the debate is
widespread references to dart speeds in excess of 100 mph being
widespread. Dating is becoming more accurate however there are
recorded in experiments. Craig Ratzat’s essay on Atlatls in the
still variances. In her book The Incredible Human Journey (2009)
book Primitive Technology (ed. David Westcott, 1999) puts across
Professor Alice Roberts investigates the use of what she terms
an interesting view point for the addition of a weight in that it
‘spear throwers’ (although there are others that disagree with this
“does not improve the performance of the weapon in terms of
terminology) in the Gravettian period (28-22 KYA or thousands of
the distance that the dart (not spear) will travel but yet it allows a
years ago). The design of which were a “stick, half a meter in length
better centre of balance to hold the weapon in the launch position
in order to propel the spear twice the range of a hand held spear”.
for a longer period of time, therefore measuring success on
Other commentators put the development of the weapon further
number of kills rather than length of travel”.
back in the Upper Palaeolithic to c. 30 KYA. Most archaeologists
agree secure dating of the use of “spear throwers” to around 21-17
Once built, the whole complexity of the weapon becomes
KYA although the earliest actual physical example of one that I
apparent. As the shaft of the Atlatl is propelled forwards the energy
can find is dated to 17.5 KYA and was found at Combe Saunière,
that is created is stored up in the flex of the dart, this energy
France. (Source: Encyclopedia of Prehistory Volume 4: Europe
is increased by the weight of the tip of the dart pushing back
edited by Peter Neal Peregrine and Melvin Ember, 2001).
through the dart onto the spur. As the shaft comes to the end of
its trajectory this stored energy is released through the dart as it
There is evidence that the use of the Atlatl was widespread by its
pushes itself off the spur. When compared with a normal throw
presence in Africa, Europe, the Americas, Asia and Australia. The
of a spear, it is the speed of the dart at the moment of release
current line of thought is that Neanderthals were using thrusting
that makes it travel further. As the dart is launched you will notice
spears and ultimately moved on to throwing spears; however the
that the flight pattern is different from that of an arrow from a
use of the Atlatl is exclusive to Homo Sapiens, our own species. As
bow. The flex in the dart oscillates the projectile in a distinct flight
Alice Roberts writes; “Stone age expert John Shea has argued that
pattern. The later development of the bow and arrow improved
the development of true projectile technology is key to our species’
the accuracy over a greater distance with a more rigid arrow and
success in terms of both hunting and seeing off rivals from other
different styles of fletching.
Illustrations by Kevan Palmer
So how can I make one? simple dog leg in the shaft, with an artificial or manmade recess
will work, as indeed will a carved down shaft with a notch cut in,
Despite regional variations in the design and materials used in thesimply achieved by creating a stop cut and carving up to it. The
production of the Atlatl, the main components are all similar - a addition of finger loops is well worth the time spent to throw with
shaft with a spur, sometimes with a specific handle and a dart. On confidence.
some designs a weight is added. Length and weight of both
the shaft and the dart are dependent
from Ash
Carved down atlatl shafts
on personal choice and availability of
materials.
For our project here we will be

working with a forked shaft.
The side fork wants to be cut
so that it is protruding enough
for your dart to slot
onto the end and
be held horizontally
Carved dart launcher along the length
of the shaft
resting between
your thumb and
forefinger. This is
best achieved by
cutting the fork
down to a chisel
point for accuracy
and making the
same shaped recess
In order to make a Simple Dog Leg on the dart. The
simple branch shaft length and diameter
with spur you will of the branch is one
need to go hunting of personal choice, with most seeming
for the right to fall within the range of 20-25 inches
material. You are however you can make them much
looking for a piece smaller or indeed much larger should
which has a side you wish.
fork coming out at
35 to 40 degrees
from the main stem.
In light of this you Thumb Loops from Buckskin
can discount some
species, for example
Sycamore and Ash will mainly be forked at too steep an angle,
so look for Hazel as a good starting point.
However you do not have to have a forked shaft, I have

included here a few different designs that some of my
instructors have produced in the past and as you can see, a

HOW TO
You will find what length suits you best. There is ongoing debate I remember reading somewhere many years ago that it works best
as to whether the actual shaft should be able to flex or not. if the dart is about three times the length and our courses do seem
The studies undertaken so far on the shaft appear to point that to back this theory up, although do select as long a straight piece
there is a minor improvement with flexibility albeit marginal. In as you possibly can. If you have any kinks in the material you have
essence the shaft is now ready to go as it is, however a few further selected then heat it up over the fire for a moment and bend the
improvements can be made to improve its effectiveness. material over your knee in the opposite direction to straighten the
shaft out. I would also suggest removing the bark once it
has been straightened to as smooth a finish as your knife
will allow.
Forked piece of hazel
At one end cut the notch for the dart to sit on the shaft,
then at the rear we need to fletch the dart. Fletch in a
straight line rather than with a curve as you would an
arrow as this will allow for less wind drag and will not
interfere with the oscillation of the dart. With three
feathers cut off the smaller side of each, glue and tie the
feathers in place using a spiral lash. A bit of glue to hold
the lash in place at the start and end will help.
At the other end of the dart affix your projectile point.

Here I have used a flint tip, however producing these is
another skill set in itself. The end does benefit from a bit
of weight and so a metal tip or as you can see from the
other example a piece of Antler will work (although this
You may decide to thin the edges of the Atlatl down for comfort is difficult to keep in place on impact). However, if you do not have
if you have selected a larger piece, here my piece is of the correct anything available then a simple pointed stick hardened over the
diameter and so all I have done is removed the bark so that it does fire will suffice. I have bound the flint tip here on with artificial
not interfere with me launching the dart as it ages. A neat trick sinew.
to measure the length of the handle is to form your hand into
a shadow puppet shape of a canine, then mark
where the top of the thumb is to give you an idea
of balance of the Atlatl. Although not all historical
designs had finger loops they certainly add
Measuring the depth of the handle
confidence to your throw and ensure the launcher
does not launch itself out of your hands. Here I have
simply formed finger loops with an old scrap of
leather and tied them onto the shaft.
The next stage is

to select a piece of
material for your dart
There are a large

number of historical
references as to
the material to use
for your dart, in
the Americas the
materials of choice
are bamboo or river
cane… none of
which grow in my Remove the bark
nearest woods here
in the UK! You can So that it fits in your hand
see here a couple
of darts made
from both of these
materials; however
without a trip down to the garden centre you may not have access
to these. So look for material that is likely to grow straight, is light,
and will allow for flex. Young Ash saplings work well, as does
Willow. Here I have selected a piece of Sycamore and tested it to
make sure it has enough flex. I have in the past also experimented
with Elder, however I found that when not seasoned it did not have
enough structural strength to it, and when seasoned it became too
brittle.
River cane and bamboo dart-
Instructor Martyn Tudhope
Applying pressure onto the dart

Continue
round and
through the
feathers
Cut the notch for the

launching platform
Starting the
fletching
So you are now ready to throw!

When in hunting mode you would want to be at the
throw position already, one benefit to having a weight
on the shaft for balance. However, as it is illegal in the UK
to hunt with such a weapon we do not
have to worry about this.
Flint tip and Antler tip- Instructor
Notch the dart onto the shaft and hold
it between your thumb and forefinger
Martyn Tudhope
through the loops. If you are looking
for accuracy then a level hold with the
dart adjacent to the ground is your Bind your
stance, if you are looking for distance arrow head in
then an arc over the shoulder is better. place
Let go at the end of your reach and the
finger loops will keep the launcher in
your hand.
With practice you can become very
Completed dart
The grip
The Throw
accurate with this weapon, however always be safe… make sure

you know where the dart will be going, but plan for it go in any
direction. Make sure your friends stay back and give yourself
plenty of space…

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TRACKING
SIMPLESTEPSTO
BASICTRACKING
WITH POWDERS & DUST
AUTHOR PROFILE:
As a small boy I was shown many tracking and survival Perry McGee
skills by my legendary father, survival “Guru” Eddie
Son of the late Eddie McGee, Perry is no
McGee. I have gone on to develop these and add new skills stranger to the wilds. With over 40 years
over the years. In this article we will learn how to look for experience in survival training and leadership,
contaminants and use powders and natural resources he has endured survival training and
whilst tracking outdoors. situations in all types of terrain and climates,
gaining knowledge of survival scenarios all
I
laughed inwardly when I recently read a blog comment from over the world. Perry loves helping others
someone who should know better that they had “invented” a learn these skills and willingly assists others
new method of tracking using powders. Tracking with natural where possible. Perry is founder of the National Tracking School and author
of a number of books including The Tracking Handbook.
substances and using environmentally friendly substances
to enhance sign, have been in existence since our ancestors
used them for hunting prey. Indeed recorded examples, ancient
route and trail…” and at this point he paused and proceeded
sketches and cave paintings show tracking methods using powders
to manoeuvre carefully around some indistinct footprints and
and dust as far back as prehistoric times.
began to repeat a phrase that I will never forget. I recall it being
one of those magical moments in tracking that anyone who has
I will illustrate just a sample of methods of enhancing sign using
ever done any decent dirt time, (time spent tracking) will tell you,
powders and dusts and, more importantly, how identifying
when it all comes together. He continued ....“Every time a subject
contaminants can assist the bushcrafter whilst tracking. I will also
connects with a surface, contaminants are passed...they are not
try and demonstrate just how easy the practice of using powders
always instantly visible to you and me, but they can be enhanced,
and dusts is.
all you need to do is investigate.” With this prophetic phrase my
father then produced an old decaying fungi (see later) from his
I was introduced to powder and dust tracking by my father back in
jacket pocket and continued; “Never be afraid to stop and never
the1960s, as he showed me and a few mesmerised soldiers the
bluff, always know your stuff.” And with a well practised act, he
basics. He taught us the importance of careful examination. He
proceeded to blow across the top of the decaying fungi, directing
told us “Always when hypothesising sign or signs on any track,
the fine inner spores right at the ridge surface of the visual adage “Nothing ventured, nothing gained.” After all without trying
ground sign. As if appearing from nowhere, a detailed footwear to enhance the sign, you will never know the outcome and having
impression developed in front of our shocked eyes. Amazingly some visual image or enhancement is better than none at all.
the tiny particles rested on the ridges and crests causing shadows
or depressions as the spores connected with the outline. I then
distinctly remember him, whilst crouching over the ground sign, Bear in mind the reason you are trying to enhance the sign, to
turning his head around, looking me straight in the eye and then improve or expand on the information already available. Enhanced
winking and smiling and saying, “Pretty cool eh, now you have a sign(s) can with practice assist in identifying the subject’s height or
go.” weight, direction of travel, as well as being a calculation for speed
of travel.
This was it for me; this was the moment it all began. A defining
moment in time had just occurred and it was as if I had just been STEP THREE – This is probably the most important step and a
allowed into the inner secrets of some magic circle. I just had to most useful tracking point to remember. When any two surfaces
have a go and to try it for myself, and from that day to this, 40 years are connected or collide together contaminants transfer from
later, I am still doing it and it still never ceases to amaze. one surface to another and although sometimes invisible, (known
For the novice tracker reader, powders and dust most definitely can as a latent contaminant) they can be enhanced. Visible debris or
be adapted and used to assist in tracking subjects and not just on other matter transferred from one surface to another (known as
ground signs. It can be used or adapted to enhance natural sign true contaminants) may not require enhancement but can still be
such as cobwebs, fingerprints, animal traits and all manner of other improved upon.
substances.
These contaminants may also be in various forms, liquid, scat,
Since my father’s introduction much has developed in the world blood or urine and may be in solid particle form such as dust or
of tracking with powders and having experimented with various debris or fine vegetation. Insect trails or spiders webs, minute
methods of forensic tracking, here at the National Tracking School
we have mastered most of the skills needed for contaminant
Example of liquid positive contaminant transfer
treatment and recognition. The details are too vast and detailed for
this article but I will share some of the basic powder and dusting
techniques and translate them into easy learning steps which can
be adopted by anyone.
STEP ONE - Before I begin to explain how to use the basics of

powder and dusting techniques, it is important to understand the
purpose and necessity of enhancing the sign. To assist you, here
is a quick ready reference, whenever you are tracking and you are
thinking about using powders and dust, but are not sure, use this
mnemonic to decide if it is appropriate.
Significant reason for improved sign enhancement

Increased intelligence or information resolved as a result of sign
enhancement
Gained or enhanced hypothesis as a consequence of using the

powders and dust
Necessity or reason for enhancing the sign

barely visible natural aspects of
STEP TWO – The next step is to nature can be brought to life
decide or define which powder Example of and enhanced in some way that
or dust in the circumstances solid negative otherwise we would not have
should be used. What is to hand, contaminant detected. To make matters more
in your equipment or tracking kit transfer complicated these transferred
or growing in your environment contaminants are then divided into
are all options. Most dry natural two further separate entities:
substances can be pounded POSITIVE – Where the subject’s
or crushed into fine powders. contaminants are transferred from
Using two hard surfaces such one surface to another
as boulders, knives etc. or even
crushing leaves into a container NEGATIVE – Where the subject
such as a mess tin can help removes contaminants from a
produce finer powders or dusts. surface which then leaves a sign
or partial sign representing the
With powders or dusts, knowing subject’s presence .
where, when and what to apply
is the key to success. Some But what has all this to do with me
applications of powders will as a Bushcrafter, following sign in
fail, however at the National the wilderness? Well it’s simple, by
Tracking School we use the detailed and further examination of

TRACKING
any sign you gain a clue to the subject’s behaviour and by adding on the amount; blood will slowly dry out, and can be indicative
all the clues together, the mystery becomes solved. If, for example of the time the subject left the contaminant. Apart from obvious
an animal’s sign is suddenly halted at the foot of a tree and by forensic applications (DNA extraction), adding luminal powders and
using powders or dust on cobwebs or claw marks on the tree it derivatives to stains and blood smears can enhance or highlight
can be deduced that the animal ascended the tree then the area of the presence.
ascent and descent can be traced.
STEP FIVE - USE NATURAL ELEMENTS - There are many natural
STEP FOUR – ASSESSING THE ORIGIN OF CONTAMINANTS fine powders and dusts readily available and others that can be
– Where a subject creates a sign and a contaminant has been adapted to assist in sign enhancement. Using old army issue foot
transferred, you need to assess the origin of the contaminant. If, powder, crushed leaves and dry vegetation, cold crushed carbon
for example the transferred contaminant is wet or dry then vital from fire beds, flower seeds, powdered snow and fine sands are all
information may be gleaned from the contaminant source. options. Try wherever possible to choose a powder or dust that is
in contrast to the colour of the background of the sign to amplify
The best analogy being if a human subject walks from dry land into the visual representation. Dark curry powder on green vegetation
water, the water will adhere to his footwear and clothing etc and as is a good example. Probably the cheapest and most useful tracking
he leaves the water back onto dry land then the water will transfer powder is flour, which also allows a good contrast on darker
from his footwear and clothing back onto the land. The more the materials. The fine constituents allow it to be carried and stored
water transference, the deeper the subject has been in the source. easily within a tracking rig or back pack. Flour can also be easily
The deeper the subject has been in the source the more agility or adapted for use in making castings or impressions. Also be aware
effort used whilst crossing the water. The connotations are endless. that some thicker or denser powders will not travel through the
air towards the sign, whereas others may be too light to distribute.
Even though the most likely contaminant to transfer or adhere In urban tracking, my area of expertise, specialist forensically-
to another sign is from a wet or damp surface, it is also the most enhanced luminescent or magnetised dusts are administered,
likely to evaporate and therefore one of the most difficult to usually applied with the use of fibre glass application brushes or
record or interpret when dry. However some wet but then dried syringes.
contaminants can still be enhanced by powders and dust.
The best sign for any tracking unit to follow and assess are those STEP SIX – SIMPLE APPLICATION - The best method or
changing contaminants. Here, an injured Rhino has brushed technique for learning how to use powders and dust to enhance
against a tree showing a positive wet origin sign. Its injury can be sign is practice. Repetitive trial and error on unrelated and
assessed by the colour, texture and density of the blood, but also unconnected sign should become the norm and soon allow you to
the location of the transferred sign is indicative of its height and find the best method and become adept.
possible desperation, as it brushes against trees.
Start by locating and securing the sign
to be enhanced, ensure that you are
facing downwind. If necessary cover
your eyes and gently blow the selected
powder or dust across the surface of
the sign, allowing it to gently settle
and increase the ridges and crests.
Avoid blowing too much powder or
dust all at once. Once you have blown
the powder move your position in
relation to the sun or light and alter
your visual distance by kneeling or
lying prone etc. to increase your vision
of the enhanced sign.
Other methods of delivery include

the use of a small plastic syringe to
initially suck up the fine powders and
then blow them across the sign. The
inclusion of any syringe is a must in
every survival pack as the uses are
endless. They also double up as water
Another consideration is the actual surface on which the sign is retracting devices from fluid filled sign or difficult locations and can
created, which can be separated into two categories, porous and be used to insert fluids into smaller areas. A good tip when using a
non porous. As a general rule, the smoother the surface on which syringe is to gently blow at the same time as the tube is depressed.
the sign was created the greater the possibility of finer detail within
the sign. Other easy methods include that most useful and inexpensive of
tracking equipment the surgical rubber or cheap plastic glove.
USING POWDERS AND DUST ON CONTAMINANT STAINING This is another very useful survival and tracking tool and every kit
– As we know, the transference of wet contaminants can occur should contain many pairs. Simply partially inflate or make larger
on most surfaces and the ability to visualise the transference, the glove and then fill it with your selected fine powder. Tie a knot
may become more difficult if the contaminant are exposed to the in the open end trapping the air towards the enclosed fingers. Cut
elements, time, or other debris. Exposed stains and contaminants a small hole in the finger end and gently squeeze the air through
can also be reduced in colour, size and texture. Blood is a good the glove and into and out of the small cut hole and across the
example, left at the scene and exposed to the sun, dependent sign.
The spores have been
Examples traditionally added to
cobwebs for cleaning
of wet and
and covering wounds.
dry positive
Lay the cobweb on the
and negative wound first and then
contaminant squeeze the contents of
transference the puffball fungi onto
onto footwear the wound. Layered
sign cobwebs are the best
option.
So there you have it,

a brief insight into
using powders and
dusts when enhancing
contaminant sign.
These tracking powders
are known by different
names in differing
regions of the world
(Poeiers in Afrikaans
One classic tracking technique taught by some tracking schools is and Bubuk in Indonesian), but essentially, all have the same
the use of the puffball fungi. The puffball or Lycoperdon fungi is effect. So the next time you are out foraging and bushcrafting
non-poisonous, easily recognisable and is from the division of the and you come across sign that needs enhancing, consider using
Basidiomycota. It has a distinguishing feature in that, when the a natural powder or dust and remember the simple steps to sign
fungi matures it has a dry brown soft outer skin which if squeezed enhancement.
emits millions of tiny spores and the spores can be blown over sign.
Safe Tracking !
A very useful survival and tracking

tool and every kit should contain
many pairs UNUSUAL SUBSTANCES MADE INTO
TRACKING POWDERS OR DUSTS
• Stone or dentalpowders – useful for casting
• Climbing chalk or substitues
• Crushed insects
• Ground up dog biscuits
• Crushed curry and tea powder
• Chocloate powder
• Ground date fruits
• Pounded leaves
• Ground sands
• Ash and debris from fires
• Dried dandelion heads
• Ground and pounded animal bones and blood
• Cocunut fibres
• Dried bannana leaves

MilitaryMart – Hoods (UK)
The Home of Army Surplus
We at MilitaryMart specialise in
Ex Army surplus kit from all over
the world, we source suppliers
and buy direct cutting the cost to
you the customer… Not only do
we sell Military Surplus we have
a large complement of outdoor
pursuits and camping equipment.
We usually hold large stocks of
Swedish trangia’s, reindeer hides,
scandanivan rucksacks, military
clothing andmuch more…
T: 01695 228 323
W: www.militarymart.co.uk
Beneath The Stars – Leathercraft
Handmade leather items primarily

for use in a ‘bushcraft’ or outdoor
environment, including; knife, axe
and saw sheaths, as well as camping
accessories.
W: www.beneaththestars.net
T: 07917358857
Jack Raven Bushcraft &

Woodland Skills
Based in an Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty in the heart of Kent,
Jack Raven Bushcraft is dedicated
to providing its customers with an
unforgettable bushcraft experience.
W: www.jackravenbushcraft.co.uk
T: 07553 763397
Timberwolf Bushcraft Knife

made by GM Handmade Knives. £159.95 ovno.
Brand new and professionally sharpened.

Surplus to requirements (Bushcraft Show prize).
High Carbon 4mm thick, 110mm long Sheffield Steel Scandi

Ground blade with makers mark and Wolf Paw logo (230mm
overall).
Turkish Walnut handle scales secured with epoxy resin, Loveless

bolts and brass lanyard hole. Matching Army size firesteel.
Hand stitched 3-4mm thick leather sheath with Firesteel sheath

and leg lanyard hole.
More info: http://www.thebushcraftstore.co.uk/the-timberwolf-

bushcraft-knife---turkish-walnut-7945-p.asp
Contact Adrian: [email protected]

The Natural
Choice for
Woodburning
Stoves
From the foothills of Dartmoor, renowned for it’s cold winters, Yeoman
has grown to become one of the leading stove manufacturers with
a wide selection of traditionally-styled woodburning and multi-fuel
stoves; with the additional versatility provided by our gas and electric
versions. There are also several high-output boiler models (up to
18kW) for a complete home heating solution and new to the Yeoman
family is the eye-catching CL range with its modern traditional styling,
making them the perfect choice for 21st century living.
Burning logs in our high efficiency clean-burning stoves is an

environmentally friendly, carbon neutral and cost effective heating
source, so opt for a Yeoman - the natural choice for a natural warmth CL Stove Range
Wood • Multi-fuel • Gas • electric • Boiler stoves
www.yeomanstoves.co.uk
For more information on all Yeoman stoves, (including high output
boiler models), visit our website or call 01392 474060
BEST IN BUSHCRAFT
BESTINBUSHCRAFT2013
It is that time of year that gives you the opportunity to
celebrate the achievements and success throughout
the bushcraft industry, considering the extraordinary
lengths undertaken to teach forgotten skills, provide
excellent bushcraft resources and superb kit.
T
he Best in Bushcraft Awards are your opportunity to
thank and acknowledge people and companies who
have personally benefited your life! You do not have to
vote in all the categories for your vote to be valid, however
there is a new criteria to vote this year in that you must have
had personal experience of what you are voting for in 2013.
For example, in order to vote for the best bushcraft course,
you must have been on that course during 2013.
Award Categories
• Best Bushcraft
Course
• Best Bushcraft
School
• Best Bushcraft
Instructor
• Best Bushcraft
Retailer Online
• Best Bushcraft
Retail Store
• Best Bushcraft
Online Content
• NEW for 2013 Best
Bushcraft Product
There are two ways that
you can vote: W I
£250N!
1. Complete the form and send it in to:
Bu of
shcra
Gear ft
Best in Bushcraft Awards 2013
ONLI
SO Publications & Events Ltd.
PO Box 16777
Tamworth
OPTI NE!
B77 9NG ON
Or
2. You can complete your form online at

www.surveymonkey.com/s/bestinbushcraft2013
Each entry is entered into a prize draw to

win over £250 worth of bushcraft gear.£250
worth of bushcraft gear.

BEST IN BUSHCRAFT
The Best in Bushcraft Winners for 2013 receive a bespoke handcrafted

award that will be presented to them at The Bushcraft Show 2013 by John
‘Lofty’ Wiseman.
We are looking to commission an artist/craftsperson to create the awards for the

winners of the Best in Bushcraft Awards for 2013. If you work with natural materials or
know of someone who has the skills to create a bespoke award that also captures the
essence of bushcraft then please get in touch by emailing
[email protected]
Closing date 8th December 2013 – 00:00. The winner will be announced in Issue 48 (Jan/ Feb 2014) of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine.
7. Please enter the name of the best bushcraft retail ✃

store. Please note you must have made a purchase from their
premises in 2013. Random checks will be carried out.
.........................................................................................
Best in Bushcraft entry form 8. Please enter the name of the website that has
the best bushcraft online content. Please note that you
1. Please enter the name of your best bushcraft must have visited this website during 2013 and that it has educational,
informative and/or instructional content.
course that you have attended in 2013.
Please note you must have attended the course during 2013 to answer
this question, random checks will be carried out. .........................................................................................
......................................................................................... 9. Please enter the name of the best bushcraft

product and manufacturer that you would like to
2. Please enter the name of the company that ran vote for. Please note you must have used or tried this product
during 2013.
the course in Q1.
10. Please complete your contact details to be
......................................................................................... entered into a prize draw to win £250 worth of
bushcraft gear. The winner will be announced in Issue 48 (Jan/
3. Please enter the name of your best bushcraft Feb 2014) of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine.
school. Please note you must have attended one or more course
with the school during 2013 to answer this question. Random checks Name: .............................................................................
will be carried out.
Company: .......................................................................
.........................................................................................
Address 1: ......................................................................
4. Please enter the name of your best bushcraft
instructor. You must have received instruction from this person Address 2: .......................................................................
during 2013. Random checks will be carried out.
......................................................................................... City/Town: ......................................................................
5. Please enter the name of the company that the State/Province: ..............................................................
instructor works for (If applicable) in Q4.
ZIP/Postal Code: ............................................................
.........................................................................................
Country: ..........................................................................
6. Please enter the name of the best bushcraft
retailer online. Please note you must have made a purchase from Email Address: ...............................................................
this company in 2013. Random checks will be carried out.
.........................................................................................

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OUTDOOR LEARNING
NATURE'SPIGMENTS
The milky blue of glacial melt water, the rainbow
iridescence of a starling’s plumage, the purple of an angry AUTHOR PROFILE:
sky, the yellow splodge of lichen on a rock - the natural
world is completely awash with colour. Many natural
materials, after a little coaxing, release colours we might
Fiona Danks & Jo Schofield
use as paints or even dyes. People have been dyeing Fiona and Jo are passionate about young people
having the opportunity to explore and enjoy the
textiles for more than 6,000 years, and right up until the
natural world and each of their six books aims to
nineteenth century every dye came directly from natural
entice children away from a screen-dominated
sources, including plants (leaves, flowers, berries, stems world and into the outdoors for some fun and
or roots), insects, shellfish, and minerals. Perhaps the first adventure. They both live on the edge of the
dyers were inspired to add colours to their daily lives after Chiltern Hills in Oxfordshire where they create
noticing how berries left red stains on their fingers. many of their ideas for their books, articles, and
workshops.
C
onnie and Sophie had such a lovely messy time squashing
and straining elderberries and they were convinced that the
vivid purple liquid would be absolutely perfect for tie dying.
They found a couple of old vests, tied them up with elastic bands
and left them to soak in the elderberry juice. After rinsing the vests
in cold water to remove excess colour, they tore off the elastic
bands to reveal spectacular patterns on a purple background. But
the next day they were bitterly disappointed – that wonderful
vibrant colour had completely disappeared, leaving only
a faded dirty grey; this activity clearly needed a bit more
research!
We collected blackberries, bark, acorns, bracken and dock

and the children had a wonderful time crushing, chopping
and mixing. The bracken produced a lovely bright green
when ground with a pestle and mortar and mixed with a
little water, and Connie spent ages chopping acorns into
tiny pieces. We boiled each material and then simmered
them for an hour or so. We tested the colours out on pieces
of muslin - purple from the blackberries and beige from the
acorns. But we still weren’t satisfied! We knew that many
dyes can be made from plants, so, not wanting to repeat the
elderberry experience, we attended an inspirational natural
dyeing workshop run by Jenny Dean. Finally, we discovered
a few simple ways to produce vibrant non-fading shades that
reflect the colours of the natural world.
A few tips on natural dyeing

Natural dyes
Many common plants can produce dyes, but some require the
addition of another substance (known as a mordant) to bond
the colour to the fabric. To keep things simple, we recommend
choosing dyes that don’t need a mordant; these are known as
substantive dyes, and could include the following:
From Trees – Birch bark (pinks), alder bark or cones (green),

eucalyptus leaves and bark (rust and orange), walnut leaves (olive
green) and ripe nut husks (brown), ripe oak acorns and galls (grey
and brown – the acorns need to be chopped finely and soaked for
several days before simmering). Only remove bark from trees that
have been cut down or are dead.
Other plants – comfrey leaves (green), blackberry leaves and

shoots (green) and ripe berries (blue – but you need to simmer
berries for half an hour then strain and heat the fabric in the dye
bath before steeping overnight).
Kitchen spices – try using turmeric as a dyestuff – it produces olive

green shades.
Materials for dyeing

Avoid trying to dye a synthetic fabric. We
experimented on lengths of wool, silk and
cotton and found that wool consistently
absorbed more colour. When dyeing,
bear in mind that cotton t-shirts may
not absorb as much colour as you’d like
them to. Always weigh the fibres or fabric
beforehand so you can calculate how much
dyestuff to use (the rule of thumb is half the
weight of dyestuff to fabric). And you don’t
have to stick to fabrics – have a go at dyeing
other natural materials such as wood, shells
or stones, stems of willow or leaves you plan
to weave with, or even paper.

OUTDOOR LEARNING
Colour Modifiers
This was a revelation to us! Certain substances, including various
everyday materials, modify colours on the fibres after they have
been dyed, sometimes with startling results. So you can make
several colours from just one dyestuff. Modifiers can either be
added to a used dye bath or put in a separate pot of water.
Acidic modifier - use about half a cupful of clear vinegar or

lemon juice.
Alkaline modifiers – use 2 tablespoons of washing soda dissolved

in a cupful of boiling water. Or make wood ash water by putting
cold wood ashes from a fireplace to soak in a bucket of water for a
week or so, and then gently pour off the water without disturbing
the sediment.
Iron modifier - soak rusty nails or an old horseshoe in a container

of vinegar and water for a week or so; pour off the water to use as
your modifier.
Prepare your fabric
Copper modifier - soak a length of old copper pipe in vinegar and
water for a week or so. Pour off the water to use as the modifier. Only use clean fabric.
Put a splash of washing up liquid in a bowl of water, and then rinse

What you need the fabric until all the fibres are soaked.
• Dyestuffs, modifiers and fabric
Squeeze the fabric to remove excess water.
• Selection of stainless steel, enamelled or glass heatproof bowls. All
implements must be non-reactive; don’t use brass, copper or iron.
• Use old equipment that’s no longer used for cooking
Dyeing the fabric
Place the wet fabric in the dye bath, adding more water if need be.
• Plastic buckets
• Wire mesh strainer or sieve Place the pan over a fire or stove and raise the temperature gradually;
simmer for 30-45 minutes then leave to cool, preferably overnight.
• Old apron or old shirt to cover your clothes, and rubber gloves
• Old wooden spoons, or better still some sticks, for stirring with – you Remove the fabric from the dye pan; the rhubarb had dyed the fabric
need separate ones for each dyestuff and each modifier an orangey yellow shade.
• Weighing scales Some dyes work better if left to soak for a day or two.
• Pestle and mortar
Modifying
Place the dyed fabric into a bowl of modifier, or add the modifier to
The Dyeing process the used dye bath and then soak the dyed fabric in that. Begin by
We had a go at dyeing with rhubarb root, to find out what effect the using a small amount of modifying solution, adding more if you wish
dye would have on cotton, silk and wool. You may wish to start out to enhance the colour change. Be careful to keep different modifiers
by testing small amounts of fabric until you discover which colours separate to avoid cross contamination.
you like and which dyestuffs work the best for you. Natural dyeing We used the four modifiers described above to produce the
involves a lot of trial and error - just have a go to see what colours following colours on our rhubarb-dyed fabrics.
you can conjure up!
Preparing the dye

Always bruise or crush dyestuffs thoroughly – the larger the surface
area of the dyestuff the more colour the fabric will be exposed to.
Crush the dyestuff with a stone, or in an old pestle and mortar no
longer used for cooking. We used dried rhubarb root chopped up
into small pieces; if using fresh rhubarb root, putting it in the deep
freeze helps break down the tough fibres.
Weigh out the dyestuff (about half the weight of the fabric).
Put the prepared dyestuff in a bowl and add boiling water.
Leave overnight – if the colour isn’t strong enough, bring the
mixture to the boil and let it simmer for a while.
Leave to cool then strain off the liquid into a metal pan; this will be
your dye bath.
Clear vinegar solution – bright yellow wool and
creamy yellow cotton
Washing soda solution – pink shade
Copper solution – rusty shade
Iron solution – grey green shade
Finishing
Add a little pH neutral washing up liquid to a bucket of water
then rinse the dyed fabric thoroughly before hanging it up to
dry.
Materials dyed in rhubarb root and

Make your clockwise from top iron water, cop
then soaked in different modifier
s
own tie- alkali/washing soda solution.
per solution, acid/vinegar solution
,
dye t-shirt
Connie made this
spectacular tie-
dye t-shirt in an
indigo dye vat;
anyone wishing
to use indigo
should follow our
example and join
a dyeing course!
But how about

making your own
multicoloured
tie-dye t-shirt
with just one
natural dye
and a couple of
modifiers? For
example, it could be dyed yellow in a rhubarb dye, and then
tied with elastic bands before soaking in a modifier. It could
Rhubarb root colours from different modifiers, left to right
then be tied up even more and put it in another modifier – this
iron, copper, alkali/washing soda, acid/vinegar.
would produce a three-coloured tie-dye pattern.
Safety tips
Don’t collect rare or poisonous plants.
Use a plant identification book or go out
with someone who knows about plants,
and only gather modest quantities of
plant materials.
Never use the same pots or tools for food
preparation and dyeing.
Store all dyes and modifiers in clearly
labelled containers.
Careful when throwing away dyeing
materials – dilute all solutions before
pouring them down the drain.
Wear rubber gloves when handling dyes
and modifiers.
Be careful when working with hot pans.
Some dyes can be harmful if ingested;
when dyeing indoors, ensure the room is
Colours from one bath of rhubarb root from left to right copper, alkali/washing soda,
well ventilated.
acid/vinegar, iron modifers).

CAREER ADVICE & SITUATIONS VACANT
CAREERADVICE&SITUATIONSVACANT
Dear Simon Ellar, Dear Andy,
It sounds like you have a busy time ahead! There is lots involved with setting
Reference your article “Looking for a job in the great up a business and more so when you are working in the outdoors utilizing
outdoors?” Issue 45 Jul/Aug 13. I am currently trying knives, axes and fire.
to start a business here in Cornwall teaching Bushcraft,
Traditional and Dying Crafts, Mountain Biking and By printing your letter here, hopefully some of the many freelance bushcraft
Forest Gardening at a centre for people to both visit and instructors and companies local to you will make contact to discuss the
provision of your bushcraft training.
learn some skills. No power tools used on site for teaching.
I won’t be teaching the Bushcraft, I will be looking for With regards to business setup, insurance and funding, insurance you could
people to teach as I’m not qualified in this area. speak to your local enterprise centre who will have advisers on hand to
give advice on all aspects of business start up and management, certainly
Do you have any ideas for things that could be taught insurance and funding. If you are seeking funding you will almost definitely
have to have a business plan and financial projections. If you take a look at
and names for tutors that I could contact, the more the following link: http://www.enterprisesupport.org.uk/useful-resources/
people available and different skills they can teach the there are some useful links and templates for business plans etc.
better?
I wish you well with your proposed venture,
I am having difficulty in finding funding and insurance to
start up, do you have any suggestions. All the best,
Simon
Regards

Andy Bromley Bushcraft
[email protected] Instructor
Woodland Ways, the UK’s largest supplier of Bushcraft &
Survival courses in the UK, is looking to recruit 3 instructors
SITUATIONS VACANT for a specific contract delivering a series of Survival Courses
throughout 2014 and beyond.
Woodland Ways has been contracted to deliver a brand new

style of Survival Course for an international brand here in the
2014
UK. These courses will not be delivered under the Woodland

Ways Brand, however you will be employed directly with
Woodland Ways. The courses are delivered in a very different
Volunteer for The Bushcraft Show style to our existing course provision.
2014
You will have a background/interest in pure survival
How would you like to be part of The Bushcraft Show Team? techniques, based on a get out alive scenario. From making
See behind the scenes at The Bushcraft Show fire and shelter in an emergency situation through to rope
All sorts of volunteer positions available work and navigation your skill set needs to be of the highest
level. Reporting directly to Jason Ingamells, Director at
Perks: Woodland Ways, you will take full responsibility for the
Free Weekend Entrance to The Bushcraft Show implementation and running of the course.
Limited Working Hours
Discounted Food Full training, equipment and uniform will be provided. Work
Staff Show T-Shirt begins with a guaranteed 8 weekends for 2014, however it is
envisaged that work will expand dramatically and you will be
To apply for this position send a letter to expected to grow with the new contract.
[email protected]
The ability to travel independently to our main venues
in Oxfordshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire is essential.
Payment is pro rata in line with the woodland ways own full
time starter instructor salary of £17.5k per year rising to £18k
Bushcraft Instructor per annum after 12 months.
Do you have a position that you would like to advertise for
FREE? Candidates will have a proven track record through either
civilian or military survival training and will be expected
This is a FREE facility so if you are a company or charity and to work with all age ranges. To make an initial application
would like to advertise your job vacancy to a target audience, please send in your CV direct to [email protected].
please get in touch – [email protected] Interviews will be held in November 2013.

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Editor Simon Ellar

Cert no. TT-COC-2200

Copyright: All articles, writings, drawings,

Will Austin There is a box of goodies on the way including some

Dear Will, Keep Smiling…

Congratulations on your new Simon

It is great that you are

Let’s hope baby number 2

To win a Light My Fire Firesteel, send in your Write

MEDICINAL MOLECULAR MARVELS

The composition of matter:

Molecular bonding Figure 1.

The Quechua peoples of Peru and Bolivia originally discovered

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 9

4.5” Curly Birch handle

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 11

The wood needs to a be a hardwood that is relatively tough,

Don’t worry about making it super smooth or finished as it will

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 13

Remove the blade and with the handle clamped to a bench, or

Learning to use this tool can be a little tricky to begin

For further information on the Mocotaugan and its safe

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 15

LIFESAVER Inventor-Founder Michael

LIFESAVER® Inventor-Founder, Michael Pritchard, has been

and children to pee into

16 • BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine

The Oloip Massai dance troop came to England to perform, teach

As soon as their feet hit British soil, it was a non-stop programme

For more information contact Jason Ingamells of Woodland Ways

Message from Anne

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 19

Let’s have a look first of all at why

Most Trail Cams have infra-red lamps (not to be confused with

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 23

The Fresnel lens

How do they work?

Stationary or slow-moving objects moving directly towards the

If an object has a different IR radiation (temperature) to its

Let’s have a closer look at these components:

PIR and detection zones

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 25

Pablo’s Trail Cam

Make sure any foliage, especially branches and long

Angle the camera at about 45 degrees to the expected

After setting up the Cam, stand behind it and try to

You can angle your Trail Cam downwards by putting

Put down a little bait (not too much) to keep the

Camouflage the Trail Cam after setting it up

Don’t keep coming back to the Trail Cam too often.

Don’t set up Trail Cams in public areas. There may

Get permission from the landowner before setting up

THE AUTHOR PROFILE:

In the last issue of Bushcraft & Survival Skills Magazine

5. Make only as needed. Do not

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 29

The flat, single needles are individually attached to the stem.

How to forage and gather: What to do:

3 Reheat the cream (do not allow it to boil). Slowly

I grind Douglas fir needles as finely as possible in a mortar and

Douglas Fir Wild

BUSHCRAFT & survival skills magazine • 31

Douglas Fir SYRUP