EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW ORLEANS

MUSEUMS
JAZZ
FESTIVALS • MAPS
GARDENS • HOTELS • WALKS
SHOPS • CAJUN FOOD • BARS
THE GUIDES THAT SHOW YOU WHAT
OTHERS ONLY TELL YOU
New Orleans Area by Area
Most of the sights described in this guide lie within
the five areas shown on the map below. Each of
these areas has its own chapter. The center of New
Orleans – the Upper and Lower French Quarters,
and the Warehouse and Central Business Districts –
is relatively compact and easy to get around, and MID-CITY
the suburbs are served by convenient transport links.
As one of the busiest international ports in the
country, the city is constantly growing; the sights
outside the city limits are described in Beyond New
Orleans (see pp136–57).

MID-CITY
Pages 114–127

GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN
Pages 98–113
 LOWER FRENCH
QUARTER, MARIGNY,
AND TREME
Pages 66–83

MARIGN
NY
TR ME
TRE LOWER
R
FRENCH
H
QUARTER
ER

UPPER FRE
RENC
RE NCH
QUARTER
RT R

UPPER FRENCH
W REH
WA R OU
RE USE AN
ANDD QUARTER
CEN
NTR
TRAL BUSINESS
ESS Pages 50–65
DISTRICTS

GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN

I
I P P
S
I S WAREHOUSE AND
I S S CENTRAL BUSINESS
M 0 kilometers 1 DISTRICTS
Pages 84–97
0 mile
miles
mil 1
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
ORLEANS

USNO_001_New Orleans US/UK half-3 3 15/5/08 8:16:58

8:16:33 AM
USNO_002 New Orleanns US/UK titl2 2 15/5/08 8:58:28 AM
 EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
ORLEANS MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: MARILYN WOOD

USNO_002 New Orleanns US/UK titl3 3 15/5/08 8:58:58

8:58:35 AM
 CONTENTS
HOW TO USE
THIS GUIDE 6

PROJECT EDITOR Alejandro Lajud

ART EDITOR Victor Hugo Garnica
EDITOR Karla Sánchez
DESIGNERS Carlos Muñoz, Alejandro Lajud, Victor Hugo Garnica
Dorling Kindersley Limited
SENIOR PUBLISHING MANAGER Louise Bostock Lang
PUBLISHING MANAGER Kate Poole
DIRECTOR OF PUBLISHING Gillian Allan
EDITORS Stephanie Driver, Mary Sutherland, Andrew Szudek
MAP CO-ORDINATORS David Pugh, Casper Morris
DTP CO-ORDINATORS Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Joanna Bull
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Marilyn Wood
New Orleans ironwork,
MAPS Lower French Quarter
Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes and James Macdonald at Mapping Ideas Ltd.
PHOTOGRAPHERS INTRODUCING
Julio Rochon, Jaime Baldovinos
NEW ORLEANS
ILLUSTRATORS
Ricardo Almazan, Ricardo Almazan Jr.
FOUR GREAT DAYS
Reproduced by Colourscan, Singapore IN NEW ORLEANS 10
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China
First American Edition, 2002 PUTTING NEW ORLEANS
08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
ON THE MAP 12
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014
THE HISTORY OF
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2005, 2008
NEW ORLEANS 14
Copyright 2002, 2008 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT NEW ORLEANS
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED
IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY FORM, AT A GLANCE 30
OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
OTHERWISE) WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK. NEW ORLEANS
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. THROUGH THE YEAR 40
A CATALOGING RECORD OF THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE
FROM THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.

ISSN 1542-1554
ISBN 978-0-7566-3952-5
Front cover main image:
wrought-iron balcony in the French Quarter

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-
date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details,
however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to
change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any
consequences arising from the use of this book. We value the
views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to:
Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain. The bustling Central
Business District

View of the Central Business District from the Mississippi River

USNO_004-005 Imprcontents.indd 4 15/5/08 8:14:00

8:13:27 AM
 NEW ORLEANS
AREA BY AREA
BOURBON STREET 46

ROYAL STREET 48

UPPER FRENCH
QUARTER 50

LOWER FRENCH
QUARTER, MARIGNY,
AND TREME 66

WAREHOUSE AND Mansion on St. Charles Avenue

CENTRAL BUSINESS
DISTRICTS 84 BEYOND NEW TRAVEL INFORMATION
ORLEANS 136 214
GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN 98 TRAVELERS’ NEW ORLEANS
NEEDS STREET FINDER 222

WHERE TO STAY 160

RESTAURANTS, CAFES,
AND BARS 170

SHOPPING IN
NEW ORLEANS 186
Vegetables and fruit for sale
in the French Market
Preservation Hall, one of New ENTERTAINMENT IN
Orleans’ best jazz venues NEW ORLEANS 194 INDEX 236

MID-CITY 114 SURVIVAL GUIDE ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

246
THREE GUIDED PRACTICAL
WALKS 128 INFORMATION 206 PHRASE BOOK 248

St. Charles Avenue streetcar

USNO_004-005 Imprcontents.indd 5 15/5/08 8:14:01

8:13:30 AM
 6 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

T his DK Eyewitness Travel Guide
helps you to get the most from
your visit to New Orleans. It
provides detailed information and
expert recommendations.
sightseeing section, and it covers all of
the important sights, with photographs,
maps and illustrations. Beyond New
Orleans covers nearby Cajun Country,
as well as the historic plantations.
The chapter titled Introducing New Information about hotels, restaurants,
Orleans maps the city and the region, shops and markets, entertainment, and
and sets it in its historical and cultural sports is found in Travelers’ Needs. The
context; it also describes the most Survival Guide section has advice on
salient events of the year. New Orleans everything from using New Orleans’
at a Glance is an overview of the city’s medical services, telephones, banking,
main attractions. New Orleans Area by and post offices to the public trans-
Area starts on page 44. This is the main portation system.

FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND NEW ORLEANS

The city has been divided into five sightseeing are numbered and clearly located on an Area
areas, each with its own section in the guide. Map. After this comes a Street-by-Street Map
Each section opens with a portrait of the area, focusing on the most interesting part of the
summing up its character and history, and area. Finding your way about the area sec-
listing all the sights to be covered. The sights tion is made easy by a numbering system.

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sights on the pages that follow. that no visitor should miss.

USNO_006-007 Prel4 (HTU).indd 6 15/5/08 8:19:51

8:19:18 AM
 H O W T O U S E T H I S G U I D E 7

NEW ORLEANS AREA MAP

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New Orleans at a Glance, for 




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UPPER FRENCH
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Numbers refer to each Practical information provides everything

sight’s position on the you need to know to visit each sight. Map
area map and its place references pinpoint the sight’s location on
in the chapter. the Street Finder map (see pp222–9).



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USNO_006-007 Prel4 (HTU).indd 7 15/5/08 8:19:53

8:19:24 AM
USNO_008-009 intro.indd 8 15/5/08 8:23:29 AM
 INTRODUCING
NEW ORLEANS

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN NEW ORLEANS 1011

PUTTING NEW ORLEANS ON THE MAP 1213
THE HISTORY OF NEW ORLEANS 1429
NEW ORLEANS AT A GLANCE 3039
NEW ORLEANS THROUGH THE YEAR 4043

USNO_008-009 intro.indd 9 15/5/08 8:24:19

8:23:42 AM
 10 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

FOUR GREAT DAYS IN

NEW ORLEANS
N ew Orleans has always been
a city where many cultures
mingle. Today, that heritage
is reflected in a great diversity of
things to do and see. Here are
elegant Uptown by streetcar; a
third taps into the exciting
visual and performing arts
scene, and the fourth is aimed
at entertaining families with
four great days out, each showing children. Important sights have
different slices of life in this page references so you can check
exuberant city. One reveals the for more details. The price
French Quarter with its Gallic Music, New guides include cost of travel,
ambience; another explores Orleans-style food, and admission charges.
emperor, is now a charming
FRENCH QUARTER AND café and bar that oozes
MISSISSIPPI CRUISE French Quarter ambience.

• Beignets for breakfast Afternoon

• Mardi Gras exhibit Head to the riverfront and
• Lunch at Napolean House the Steamboat Natchez (see
• Cruise on the Natchez and pp64–5) for a two-hour cruise
go for a Bourbon stroll (departs at 2:30pm), with
calliope music, fascinating
TWO ADULTS allow at least $125 narratives on the city, and
views of the busy waterway.
Morning Back on land, a short walk
Start the day with a classic from the dock, the French
coffee and beignets Market (see p70) is ideal for Stunning architecture at the
(donuts) breakfast a spot of browsing in Contemporary Arts Center
at the Café du the shops, crafts
Monde (see p76 booths, and flea
and p176). Cross market stalls. Return STYLE, ART, AND
Decatur Street to to Jackson Square CREOLE CULTURE
Jackson Square and hire a carriage
(see p54), where for a ride through • Explore the Arts District
street performers the Quarter; you will • Creole history, art and
entertain. Visit the Oysters, at the be intrigued by the antiques on Royal Street
Mardi Gras exhibit at Acme Oyster local architecture. • An evening at the theater
the Presbytère (see House Finally, stroll along
pp56–7), a landmark Bourbon Street (see TWO ADULTS allow at least $120
state museum. Then, amble pp46–7), and relish its
down Chartres Street to neon-lit, bawdy glory Morning
Napoleon House (see p59 before heading to the Acme Breakfast at the world-
and p178) for lunch. This Oyster House (see p176) for famous Brennan’s restaurant
mansion, built for the French oysters or gumbo (stew). (see p176) starts the day in
laidback but elegant style.
Catch the St. Charles Avenue
streetcar (see pp104–5) or
take a cab to Lee Circle
(see p96) where, within
a three-block radius, you
can happily overdose on
art at the Ogden Museum
of Southern Art (see p96),
the Contemporary Arts
Center (see p97) and
Julia Street galleries,
which are clustered
together in the district.
A few blocks away, built
into an old river warehouse
Garlic, and plenty of it at the French market on S. Peters and Fulton

Plan de la Ville/La Nouvelle Orléans/Capitale de la Province de la Louisiane, by Thierry, 1755

USNO_010-011 4 Great Days.indd 10 15/5/08 8:28:32

8:27:51 AM
 F O U R G R E A T D AY S I N N E W O R L E A N S 11

streets, you’ll find restaurants

offering a variety of lunch
options, including tapas,
sushi, and Mexican food.

Afternoon
Head back to the French
Quarter and visit the Historic
New Orleans Collection (see
pp60–61), where exhibits
illustrate Creole life in the
19th century. Take a stroll
along Royal Street (see
pp48–9), with its galleries A group of jazz players on Jackson Square
and antiques stores, where
for six blocks performers Explore the maze of tombs
and musicians are found at Lafayette Cemetery (see A FUN DAY OUT FOR
on nearly every corner. If p100). Return to the streetcar THE FAMILY
you want to experience route and board the next
Creole fine dining, Uptown-bound • Clowns and caricatures
stop at Galatoire’s car. At Audubon • A riverboat ride to the zoo
(see p177), an Park (see p111), • Swamps and rare alligators
upscale bistro on walk through lush • History and horror in wax
Bourbon Street. Cul- grounds, or cross
ture fans will love a the street to visit FAMILY OF 4 allow at least $150
modern play at the the campuses of
Southern Repertory Tulane and Loyola Morning
Theatre in Canal universities (see Start at Jackson Square (see
Place (see p94), or p110). Walk, or p54) where clowns, artists,
a classic at Le Petit A streetcar named jump onto another and performers put on a
Théâtre (see p55). St. Charles Uptown-bound show for all. A caricature
streetcar, to the drawn here makes for a
Riverbend (see p111), an unique souvenir. Head across
THE HISTORIC CHARM outdoor recreation area. If Decatur Street to check out
OF THE STREETCAR hungry, grab a counter seat the dance troupes and other
at Camellia Grill (see p180), acts in the performance area
• Go up and down town on a charmingly retro diner. next to the Jax Brewery.
stately streetcars Behind the brewery follow
• Admire mansions and Afternoon the river past the statues of
tombs in the Garden District After crossing Carrollton Woldenberg Riverfront Park
• Lunch in the Riverbend Avenue, window shop along (see p88) to the John James
• Cocktails at sunset bustling Maple Street, with Audubon riverboat (see
its fine book stores and p217). A package deal offers
TWO ADULTS allow at least $75 upscale boutiques. Return to an informative 45-minute
St. Charles Avenue to board cruise to the acclaimed
Morning a downtown-bound streetcar Audubon Zoo (see pp112–
Get your $1.25 fares ready to the Columns Hotel (see 13). If hungry, grab a bite at
and head to the first stop p166), and reward yourself one of the zoo’s cafés (you’ll
of the historic St. Charles with a cocktail at the Victorian find the swamp section’s
Avenue streetcar (see Bar, either on its regal porch popular eaterie is heaving).
pp104–5) at the corner of or inside at the ornate bar. While there, check out the
Canal and Carondelet streets. Louisiana swamp exhibit of
Passengers travel at a steady local wildlife, especially the
pace past the mansions and rare white alligator.
towering oaks. Disembark
at Washington Avenue and Afternoon
head into the Garden District Jump aboard the riverboat
(see pp100–1), where you’ll for the return trip. Back in the
see opulent homes and French Quarter, enjoy scary
splendid gardens that bear dungeon settings, scenes from
witness to the wealth of the New Orleans’ history, and
antebellum South. Drop into famous figures in wax at the
the lobby of the renowned Musée Conti Wax Museum
Commander’s Palace (see (see p58). Grab a muffuletta
p182) restaurant to pick up a A predatory jaguar in the lush at the popular Central Grocery
free guide to historic homes. jungle at Audubon Zoo (see p177) – you’ve earned it.

USNO_010-011 4 Great Days.indd 11 15/5/08 8:28:33

8:27:59 AM
 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
1 012 15/04/08 K09 00
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12 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

*ACKSON

Putting New Orleans on the Map

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New Orleans is located in southeast Louisiana, between -BLF
Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi River. The .BVSFQBT
airport handles international and domestic flights, and
there are good road and rail links to the rest of the
country. Prior to Hurricane Katrina, in August 2005,
the population of the city was approximately 485,000. 1P
Many New Orleanians lost their homes as a result of
the terrible floods and were forced to move away. By
2008 the population had slowly risen to around 272,000.
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USNO 012-013 Orie 2.indd 12 4/17/08 8:31:30

15/5/08 1:55:05 AM
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 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
1 013 15/04/08 K09 00
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P U T T I N G N E W O R L E A N S O N T H E M A P 13

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USNO 012-013 Orie 2.indd 13 4/17/08 8:31:30

15/5/08 1:55:08 AM
PM
USNO_014-015 Hist 1.indd 14 17/5/08 11:01:41 AM
 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S 15

THE HISTORY OF
NEW ORLEANS

I
n 1541, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto discovered the
Mississippi River, but it was the Frenchman Robert de La Salle
who sailed down the river for the first time in 1682 and erected
a cross somewhere near the location of modern New Orleans, claim-
ing it and the whole of Louisiana for his king, Louis XIV.
FRENCH COLONY prostitutes were deported from
The first French settlements were France to New Orleans, the first 88
established on the Gulf Coast at women arriving from La
Biloxi. It took another 36 Salpêtrière, a Paris house of
years before Jean Baptiste Le correction, in 1721. The
Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, first slaves had arrived a
established a settlement year earlier, and in 1727
on the Lower Mississippi the Ursuline Sisters
at New Orleans in 1718. arrived and founded their
In 1721, the engineer convent. The Company
Adrien de Pauger laid out of the West speculative
the French Quarter behind bubble eventually burst
the levees that had been and Law’s company col-
constructed. Two years lapsed. In 1731 the king
later the capital of the Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, resumed control and sent
colony was moved from founder of New Orleans Bienville back to govern
Biloxi to New Orleans. and to deal with the trou-
However, the colony did not pros- blesome Chickasaw and Natchez
per, and the French king turned Indians. Commerce began to grow,
over control to a private financier despite the restrictions that the
and speculator, Scotsman John Law, French had imposed on trade with
who floated stock in his Company England, Spain, Mexico, Florida,
of the West and promoted Louisiana and the West Indies. Much of it was
as a utopia, which it was not. The illegal. By 1763 river traffic had
natives were hostile, the land was a grown so prodigiously that exports
swamp, and the climate pestilential, (indigo, sugar, rum, skins, and fur)
but, lured by Law’s advertisements, totaled $304,000.
thousands of Germans and Swiss By that time, the contest for the
left for Louisiana and, if they sur- control of North America had begun
vived the perilous ocean crossing, in earnest; in 1755 the Seven Years’
settled along the Mississippi. War had broken out between Britain
Whenever immigration to the new and France, Spain, and other
colony diminished, criminals and European powers.

TIMELINE

1682 La Salle explores 1720 The first 1727 The 1763 Exports
the Mississippi and shipment of Ursuline Sisters top $300,000
claims Louisiana for slaves arrives arrive in New
Louis XIV on July 7 Orleans
1550 1650 1750
1721 88 women arrive
1541 Spanish 1718 Jean Baptiste from a house of correction.
explorer Hernando Le Moyne, Sieur de Adrien de Pauger lays out
de Soto discovers Iberville, establishes the Vieux Carré
the Mississippi River a settlement
C. de la Motte, an aristocrat of the French colony

Americans take control of the city after the Louisiana Purchase

USNO_014-015 Hist 1.indd 15 17/5/08

15/5/08 11:01:45
8:49:19 AM
 16 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

St. Louis Cathedral, flanked by the Cabildo (left) and Presbytère, built during Spanish rule

SPANISH CITY to trade with countries other than

The Seven Years’ War ended in 1763, Spain. In 1788 a fire on Good Friday,
and Louis XV signed the Treaty of Paris, March 21, destroyed 856 buildings.
which ended French ambitions in The destruction was so extensive that
North America. Before signing, how- most of the French-style buildings
ever, he had secretly ceded Louisiana were lost. After the fire, the Spanish
to his cousin the Spanish king, decreed that all buildings of two
Charles III. The French settlers in stories or more were to be construc-
Louisiana were outraged at the news, ted of brick, thus giving the rebuilt
and when the Spanish governor Don city a definite Mediterranean look.
Antonio de Ulloa arrived in 1766 to In the 1790s, under Baron
take control, they rebelled, driving Carondelet (1792–7), New Orleans
him back to Havana. Alexander thrived. He granted free trade to the
O’Reilly, an Irish-born Spanish gener- Americans on the Mississippi and
al, arrived with 24 warships, 2,000 made New Orleans the port of
soldiers, and 50 artillery pieces. deposit for three years. The city’s
He executed six ringleaders of the first theater and its first newspaper
rebellion at the site of the were soon established,
Old US Mint, on October gas lamps lit the streets,
25, 1769, and firmly estab- and a basic police force
lished Spanish power. was recruited. Drainage
During the American ditches were dug too, to
Revolution (1775–83), protect the city against
Governor Bernardo de flooding by the Mississippi.
Galvez supported the Prosperity increased, and
American colonists and the sugar industry was
captured Baton Rouge, created in 1796, when
Natchez, Mobile, and Pen- Jean Etienne Boré first
sacola for the Spanish king. granulated sugar on a
He also relaxed trade res- Spanish Governor Bernardo commercial scale. The city
trictions, allowing citizens de Galvez (1776–85) was home to important

TIMELINE
1769 Governor
O’Reilly suppresses 1788 Fire on
1765 First
the 1766 rebellion March 21 (Good
Acadians Friday) destroys
arrive from 856 buildings
Nova Scotia
1760 1770 1780 1790
1763 Treaty of 1775–83 1791 Toussaint L’Ouverture
Paris signed; Revolutionary leads slave revolt in Saint
Louisiana and War Domingue (Haiti)
New Orleans
ceded to Spain Phillipe de Marigny, an
early plantation owner

USNO_016-017 Hist 2.indd 16 15/5/08 8:34:38

8:34:15 AM
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 17

plantations like the one owned

by Phillipe de Marigny in the
Lower French Quarter. New
Orleans also received an infusion
of talented men from the French
colony of Saint Domingue (now
Haiti), who had fled the slave
uprising there in 1791. By 1804,
refugee planters and slaves were
pouring into New Orleans. They
added a distinct Caribbean cast to
the colony, erecting West Indian-
style houses. The planters’ slaves Andrew Jackson leading the Battle of New Orleans
and free people of color brought
the practice of voodoo with them. Wilkinson and William C.C. Claiborne
officially ratified the transfer on
THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE AND THE December 20, 1803, at the Cabildo.
BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS On April 30, 1812, Louisiana was
Although Spain ceded Louisiana to admitted to the Union, six weeks
France in 1800, Napoleon, who was before the United States declared war
preoccupied in Europe, quickly sold on Great Britain because of restraint
it to the United States for $15,000,000 of trade and the impressment of
to help pay for his wars. General James Americans into the British navy. In
January 1815, despite the Treaty of
Ghent, which had theoretically ended
the war the month before, British
forces launched a fresh attack on
New Orleans. Under General Andrew
Jackson, a ragtag army of pirates,
American frontiersmen, French gentle-
men, and free men of color beat back
the British, validating the peace treaty
and finally ending hostilities.
In 1812 the first steamboat had
arrived in New Orleans, and soon after
the victory at the Battle of New Orleans
waves of newcomers, attracted by
rapid commercial growth, drove the
population to more than 40,000.
Nevertheless, friction between the
French Creoles and the Americans
gave rise to the creation of two sepa-
rate districts; the French Quarter and
an uptown American section. Canal
Representation of the Battle of New Orleans Street separated the two, and was
at Chalmette known as the neutral ground.

Spanish treaty of 1794 1812 The steamer New Orleans

arrives in the city in January
1796 Sugar 1803 Louisiana
industry Purchase ratified 1815 Andrew Jackson triumphs at the
established on December 20 Battle of New Orleans on January 8
1800 1810 1820
1795 United States 1800 Louisiana 1812 Louisiana
and Spain sign a ceded from admitted to
treaty opening the Spain to France the Union
Mississippi to on April 30 1814 Treaty of Ghent,
American trade 1805 Districts of New signed on December 24,
Orleans merge into one city ends the War of 1812

USNO_016-017 Hist 2.indd 17 15/5/08 8:34:39

8:34:17 AM
 18 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

STEAMBOATS, COTTON,
AND SUGAR
The arrival of the first
steamboat, in 1812,
opened the city’s trade to
the interior and the
upcountry plantations.
Before the steamboat,
cargo was carried on flat-
boats, which floated
down the O h i o a n d
Mississippi from Louis-
ville, Kentucky, on a jour- The Robert E. Lee steamboat on the Mississippi
ney that took several
weeks. The new steamboats cut the in 1857; it also developed a reputa-
journey to a fraction of that time. tion for its courtly life, riverboat
Between 1803 and 1833, about 1,000 gambling, and easy living. The only
boats a year docked at the port of blights were the frequent epidemics
New Orleans. By the mid-1830s, the of cholera and yellow fever. Between
port was shipping half a million bales 1817 and 1860 there were 23 yellow
of cotton, becoming the cotton capital fever epidemics, killing more than
of the world. By 1840 it was the sec- 28,000 people. The worst, in 1853,
ond most important port in the killed 10,300 people.
nation, after New York, and the popu-
lation had passed 80,000. Other com- CIVIL WAR AND RECONSTRUCTION
modities that enriched the city The Civil War brought prosperi-
were sugar, indigo, coffee, and ty to an end. In 1861 New
bananas. As many as 35,000 Orleans seceded from the
steamboats docked at the Union. In 1862, Union Navy
wharves in 1860, clearing Captain Farragut captured
$324 million worth of trade. New Orleans, and General
By this time, New Benjamin “Beast” Butler
Orleans was the largest city occupied the city on May 1,
in the South, and, with a 1862. Butler hanged William
population of 168,000, it was Mumford for tearing the
the sixth largest city in the United States flag down from
nation. The immense wealth 1845 portrait the Mint, confiscated the prop-
that was being generated led to of a family erty of those who refused to
the city’s further expansion and sign an oath of allegiance, and
cultural development. The city of passed an ordinance declaring that
Lafayette (now the Garden District) any woman who insulted a Union
was annexed in 1852; the French soldier would be regarded as a pros-
Opera House was built in 1858; the titute and locked up. The citizens
Mardi Gras festival became more chafed under his rule and that of his
widely celebrated when the first successor, General Nathaniel Banks.
parading krewe, Comus, was founded After the war, the city struggled to

TIMELINE
1831–5 New 1853 Yellow
Orleans becomes 18
1845 New Orleans fever kills 10,300 Me
the world’s largest is the second biggest between July and
cotton market Ha
port in the country November Civil War gun

1830 1840 1850 1860

1820–30 The develop- 1861 Louisiana secedes 1865
ment of the steamboats from the Union Civil
allows the city to open War
trade to the interior of 1852 The city of Lafayette is annexed, 1862 Union General ends
the country becoming the Garden District Benjamin Butler occu-
pies the city on May 1

USNO_018-019 Hist 3.indd 18 15/5/08 8:46:28

8:46:02 AM
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 19

recover, but the source of so much

of the city’s wealth – the upriver
plantations – had been destroyed.
The “Old South” never recovered;
the steamboat era was over, and the
economic shift toward the northeast
left New Orleans languishing.
Poor race relations troubled the
city after the Civil War. In 1865, at
the end of the Civil War, slaves
were freed but lived in legal limbo.
In 1866, a white mob attacked
Mechanics Hall in downtown New Slave cabin in a cotton plantation, circa 1860
Orleans, where a group of white
and black men were drafting a new as old Confederates resumed full
state constitution to extend full rights political, civil, and economic power.
to black men (women would not Segregation became entrenched in
vote until the 20th century). During 1896 when Plessy vs. Ferguson estab-
the attack, 37 delegates were killed lished the so-called “separate but
and 136 wounded; the violence of equal” mandates. Segregation was
the Mechanics Hall riot was a key not successfully challenged again for
element in Congress’s decision to more than 50 years. Racial tensions
organize Reconstruction as a military only worsened as waves of Italians
occupation of the old Confederacy by and Irish immigrants arrived in the
federal troops. late 19th century.
In 1877 federal troops withdrew, Although the 1884 Cotton Centennial
but the legal and social gains made Exposition helped boost the city’s
b y A f r i c a n A m e r i c a n s d u r i n g profile as a major commercial center,
Reconstruction soon began to erode crime, prostitution, and corruption
remained rampant. In
1897, in an attempt to
control the lawlessness
that was troubling the
city, Alderman Sidney
Story sponsored a bill
that legalized prostitu-
tion in a 38-block area
bounded by Iberville,
Basin, Robertson, and
St. Louis streets. This
area, which became
known as “Storyville”,
fostered the beginnings
of a new style of impro-
visational music, called
Painting of a fleet of Civil War frigates jazz (see pp20–21).

1866 1890 Racial ten- 1897 Sidney Story

Mechanics sions reach their proposes official
1877 Reconstruction red light district
Hall Riot peak in New
ends; Federal troops leave Orleans

1870 1880 1890 1900

1896 Supreme court
1884 Cotton Centennial decision in Plessy vs.
Exposition Ferguson permits
racial segregation
General Robert E. Lee

USNO_018-019 Hist 3.indd 19 15/5/08 8:46:29

8:46:05 AM
 20 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

History of New Orleans Jazz

Jazz is America’s original contribution
to world culture. It evolved slowly and
almost imperceptibly from a number of
sources – from the music played at
balls, parades, dances, and funerals,
and New Orleans’ unique blend of
cultures. Its musical inspirations
Blue Lu Barker included African work chants, black
spirituals, and European and Trumpeter Oscar “Papa”
American folk influences – the entire mélange of Celestin
music that was played in 19th-century New Orleans. The founder of the Tuxedo
Brass Band in 1911 also
Congo Square composed “Down by the
On Sundays, Riverside.”
slaves gathered
here to celebrate
their one day off,
playing music
and dancing.

Papa Jack’s
Dixieland
Jazz Band
This all-white
band, led by Nick
LaRocca, made
the first jazz
recording
in 1917.

Louis Armstrong
This world-famous jazz
Bordellos, or
trumpeter began singing on the “sporting houses,”
streets of New Orleans. He played were where jazz
with Kid Ory before leaving the gained its popularity.
city in 1923 to join King Oliver’s
band in Chicago.

TIMELINE
Buddy Bolden (1877–1931), Joe “King” Oliver (1885– “King” Oliver
a barber born in New Orleans, 1938) started playing cornet
played cornet and formed one of in New Orleans in 1904, but
the first jazz bands in the 1890s moved to Chicago with his
Creole Jazz Band

1880 1900 1920

Sidney Bechet
Jelly Roll Morton (1890–1941) (1897–1959) played
began his piano career in the clarinet and soprano
brothels of Storyville. He was saxophone with
the first great jazz composer early leaders like
and pianist Freddie Keppard

USNO_020-021 Hist4.indd 20 15/5/08 8:52:33

8:52:00 AM
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 21

Kid Ory’s Trombone

Edward “Kid” Ory
played with King Oliver
and Louis Armstrong’s
famous Hot Five band.

Riverboat Jazz Bands

After Storyville was closed down in 1917,
New Orleans’ best musicians moved onto
the boats or migrated to northern cities.
Pianist Fate Marable’s band included
Louis Armstrong, who played the cornet.

The Boswell Sisters

Connie, Martha, and Vet
Boswell sang and recorded
in the early 1930s. This was
the most popular female
jazz group of its time.

Musicians were
screened off so that
they could not see
the patrons.

STORYVILLE JAZZ SALON

Many early jazz artists entertained in
Storyville at the bordellos, playing behind
screens – Buddy Bolden, King Oliver, Jelly Roll Morton
Jelly Roll Morton, Sidney Bechet, Kid Ferdinand “Jelly Roll” Morton, who
Ory, Freddy Keppard, and Manuel Perez formed the band The Red Hot Peppers,
among them. claimed to have invented jazz in 1902.

Louis Armstrong (1901–1971) Terence Blanchard (1962–), a trumpeter,

was the greatest of all jazz played with Lionel Hampton and Art
musicians. From 1940 to 1960 he Louis Armstrong
Blakey before forming his own quintet.
played with his All Star Band He is famous for composing and playing
the music for Spike Lee’s films
1940 1960 1980 2000
Danny Barker Pete Fountain Harry Connick, Jr. (1967–) played
(1909–1994) played (1930–) is consid- in New Orleans clubs as a teenager,
guitar and banjo with ered one of the later becoming a major jazz-pop
the big bands in the best clarinetists music star and arranging the score
1930s and 1940s before in the world for When Harry Met Sally
returning to New Orleans

USNO_020-021 Hist4.indd 21 15/5/08 8:52:33

8:52:03 AM
 22 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

During World War II, business

picked up again in the shipyards,
and New Orleans produced thou-
sands of the famous Higgins boats
that were used in Allied amphibious
landings on all war fronts.
In 1946 Mayor de Lesseps Story
“Chep” Morrison was elected as a
reformer and served until 1961. Dur-
ing his administration the city
began to take on its current appear-
ance. He constructed the Pontchar-
A World War II Higgins boat train Expressway, a new airport, and,
in 1958, the $65-million Mississippi
20TH-CENTURY NEW ORLEANS – Bridge (later renamed the Crescent City
FROM STORYVILLE TO 2000 Connection Bridge), which opened
Until it was abolished on October 2, the West Bank area to suburban devel-
1917, Storyville was the most extraor- opment. In 1954, the Supreme Court
dinary spectacle of legalized vice in ruling Brown vs. the Board of Educa-
the United States. Patrons could pick tion ordered the desegregation of
up a copy of the “Blue Book” in a bar public education. Schools were inte-
or hotel and find the names and ad- grated by federal marshals in 1960.
dresses of 700 prostitutes listed with During the 1960s there was some
their prices and their color. Storyville economic regeneration when NASA
also gave jazz a boost, because many took over an old aviation plant to
early jazz artists began their musical build the Saturn rocket booster, and a
lives in the brothels (see pp20–21). ship channel was opened, enabling
The Department of the Navy closed very large ships to enter the port. In
Storyville down in 1917, because it 1969 the port was still the second in
feared that it was too tempting
to sailors shipping out from
New Orleans to World War I
battlefronts. Although the war
briefly boosted business in the
shipyards, the economy lan-
guished during the 1920s and
early 1930s. The effects of the
Depression were evident by
1933, when five New Orleans
banks failed and 11 percent of
the citizenry was on welfare.
Under the New Deal, Mayor
Robert Maestri used federal
dollars to build roads, bridges,
parks, and public buildings. The Crescent City Connection Bridge, reconstructed in the 1990s

TIMELINE
1941–45 Higgins
1933 Five New boats produced
Orleans banks fail; at the shipyards 1954 Brown vs.
11 percent of the Board of Education
citizens are on relief orders desegregation

1910 1920 1930 1940 1950

1917 Storyville 1936 Vieux Carré 1936–46 Mayor Robert
abolished on Commission Maestri uses federal funds to
October 2 established repair the city’s infrastructure
Storyville
brothel sign

USNO_022-023 Hist5.indd 22 17/5/08

15/5/08 10:56:33
9:15:55 AM
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 23

the nation. During the boom,

new buildings like the World
Trade Center, Rivergate, and
One Shell Square were erect-
ed, and numerous hotels rose
up along Canal Street. In 1967
the city was granted an NFL
(National Football League)
franchise and thereafter
entered the major leagues.
The 1965 Voting Rights Act
changed the political picture
in the city. In 1969, Mayor NASA Saturn rocket, built in the 1960s at the Michoud plant
Moon Landrieu was elected
primarily because he had the support Momus krewes refused to comply,
of black voters, and he appointed the and canceled their parades. The ordi-
first black to a senior position in his nance was later toned down. Proteus
administration, paving the way for resumed its parade in 2000. In 1994,
the election of Ernest N. “Dutch” Dutch’s son, Marc Morial, age 34, was
Morial, the first black mayor, in 1978. elected mayor. He served two terms,
At the beginning of his administration building a powerful political machine.
Morial benefited greatly from the oil Some economic diversification and the
boom, but by 1986 the bubble had boom in the late 1990s helped restore
burst, due to the drop in prosperity, but the city
international oil prices; still suf fers from a
as a result, the city’s dependence on tourism
economy was devastated. and oil, and from the
Meanwhile, the white persistent problems of
and middle class flight corruption. C. Ray Nagin
to the suburbs, which was elected mayor in
began in the 1950s, con- 2002 and made great
tinued, leaving the inner strides in eliminating
city to the poor. Morial some of the city’s cor-
sought to salvage city ruption. In August 2005,
fortunes by building the a disastrous flood
C o n v e n t i o n C e n t e r, caused by Hurricane
developing the water- Katrina (see pp24–7) hit
front, and encouraging the city, killing more than
tourism investment, but Millennium celebrations 1,400 people. Several
racial tensions increased, on the Mississippi River years later, much remains
finally spilling over into to be done, but the city
Mardi Gras. In 1991 the City Council is steadily recovering, doing what it
passed a stringent anti-discrimination does best; delivering the pleasures of
law, refusing to grant parade permits food, drink, music, and art to the
to all; the Comus, Proteus, and many visitors that flock here.

1975 1980s Oil 1994 Marc Morial

1960 N. O. schools Superdome boom and 1987 Pope elected Mayor,
are desegregated by opens bust John Paul II age 34 2000 New Orleans celebrates
federal marshals visits the city the millennium

1960 1970 1980 1990 2000 2010

1984 Louisiana 1995 A flood in 2005 Hurricane

World Exposition May causes $760 Katrina hits the city
helps riverfront million worth of
1961 NASA acquires the old development damage
Michoud aviation plant to 2002 C. Ray Nagin
assemble Saturn booster rockets Pope John Paul II elected Mayor

USNO_022-023 Hist5.indd 23 17/5/08

15/5/08 10:56:40
9:15:55 AM
 24 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

Hurricane Katrina
Hurricane Katrina – and the subsequent
levee failures – which hit New Orleans
in August 2005 have been called the most
expensive disaster in US history. More
than 850,000 homes were damaged and
A satellite image of
entire communities along the Gulf Coast
Hurricane Katrina of Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama 17th Street Canal and
were destroyed overnight. The official London Avenue Canal
death toll in Louisiana alone exceeded 1,400 Katrina’s storm surge over-
people, and many more were forced to relocate whelmed these canals and
across the country. Much of the destruction in flooded much of the city.
the city was caused by floodwaters. The
recovery effort has been a monumental
undertaking: billions of dollars in
insurance proceeds and government
funds have been committed so far.

Tulane and Loyola Universities

These institutions had to contend
with damage to the facilities
and the displacement of most
employees and students. They
managed to reopen in 2006.

The St. Charles Avenue streetcar

was severely damaged by the
winds, which tore down the The massive Mississippi River levees that help
overhead power lines. The contain the river weathered Katrina without
rolling stock, however, survived a problem, ensuring that the French Quarter,
the storm, and service was Central Business District, Uptown, and parts
resumed in 2007. of the Garden District remained dry.
st

TIMELINE
Aug 28 Mayor Ray Nagin Sep 24 Hurricane Rita makes landfall;
orders the mandatory Aug 31 Attempts to parts of New Orleans are flooded again
evacuation of New Orleans plug levee breaches fail;
flooding continues until Feb 28, 2006
Aug 26, 2005 State of emergency waters reach the level Mayor Nagin First post-Katrina
declared in Louisiana of Lake Pontchartrain Mardi Gras

2005 2006
Aug 29 Katrina makes landfall; storm Sep 15 President Bush Nov 28 City’s first
surge inundates some communities; pledges to rebuild the city public school reopens
levees fail around New Orleans
and massive flooding reported
Sep 12 Federal Emergency Oct 6 Drinking water declared
Sep 6 Evacuation of Management Agency (FEMA) safe in most of the city
Superdome is completed director Michael Brown resigns

USNO_24-25 katrina n.style.indd 24 15/5/08 9:29:31

9:29:04 AM
 T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 25

THE CITY UNDERWATER WHY THE LEVEES FAILED

The historic neighborhoods built on higher ground New Orleans relies on a network
did not flood, while the newer communities, built of man-made canals supported
on reclaimed swamp land, were devastated as by concrete walls and earthen
levees to drain water from the
lake water surged through the levee breaches.
low-lying city into Lake
Pontchartrain. The storm surge
The New Orleans Fair Grounds race-
St. Louis Cathedral and from Hurricane Katrina forced a
track flooded, but the venue was still
able to host the New Orleans Jazz other landmarks in the massive amount of water from
& Heritage Festival in 2006. Horse historic French Quarter the lake back into the canals, and
racing resumed in November 2007. were built on high eventually this water overflowed
ground and therefore the walls meant to contain it.
avoided flooding.

Water cascaded over the canal walls

with such force that it eroded the
supporting earthen banks. This even-
tually weakened the levees so much
that the walls collapsed and flood-
water poured into the city.

The Mississippi River-Gulf

Outlet, a man-made ship-
ping channel outside of
New Orleans, helped
funnel the storm surge
into the city.

Roof Damage at
the Superdome
Storm winds tore off
the roof of the city’s Lower Ninth Ward
largest sports arena, In this area, water blasted
a refuge for several through the failed levees
thousand residents. with such force that homes
It took days for the were ripped from the
people trapped there ground, leaving little to
to be evacuated. salvage in the flood’s wake.

May 6 All New Orleans Sep 25 Louisiana Superdome reopens

neighborhoods declared for first football game
officially open for return Dec 23 St. Charles Avenue streetcar
service fully restored
Jun 29 Convention Nov 23 New Orleans Fair Grounds
Center reopens racecourse reopens

2007
Aug 24 Port of New Orleans Dec 24 City population
operates at 100 per cent of officially estimated at 300,000
pre-Katrina cargo levels
May 27 Audubon Jun 12, 2007 New Orleans
Aquarium of the appoints its first inspector general New Orleans
Americas reopens to root out city corruption streetcar

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26 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

The Impact of Hurricane Katrina surge inundated entire commu-

nities outside of the region’s
Hurricane Katrina was a disaster of protection levees. In New
unprecedented magnitude for New Orleans itself, the levee walls
Orleans, combining the destructive collapsed, allowing water from
force of a powerful hurricane with Lake Pontchartrain to pour
into the city.
Scrawled messages on
levee failures that left much of the The paralyzed city descend-
a house in New Orleans
city inundated by floodwaters for ed into chaos, with thousands
weeks. It was clear from the start of desperate citizens pleading
that the city’s recovery would take years, and early for help from their rooftops.
results materialized very slowly as bureaucratic issues The Federal Emergency Man-
mounted. However, the spirit and improvisation that agement Agency (FEMA) was
have long made New Orleans such a captivating place criticized for its disorganized,
for visitors have also fueled the city’s recovery. As the slow response, but eventually
the military arrived in force to
rebuilding work continues, New Orleans has emerged oversee a massive evacuation.
as a showcase and proving ground for new ideas, while
the warm atmosphere and unique charms of the historic
city have survived to greet visitors once again. A MODERN DIASPORA

Amid the turmoil were

moments of great courage
and generosity. The US Coast
Guard rescued an estimated
33,500 people from the area,
and countless individuals
stepped up to help those dis-
placed and in dire need. When
the evacuation was complete,
the flooded city and its suburbs
sat virtually empty as residents
spread out across the US in
search of temporary shelter.
On September 15, President
George W. Bush delivered a
televised speech from Jackson
Destruction in the wake of Hurricane Camille (1969) Square to pledge that the
nation would do “whatever it
takes” to rebuild New Orleans.
A HISTORY OF LEVEE FAILURES AND A Recovery efforts began by
HURRICANES FITFUL RESPONSE plugging levee breaks and
draining the flooded neigh-
Like many other communities Hurricane Katrina formed over borhoods, leaving behind
on the Gulf of Mexico, New the Atlantic in late August endless vistas of washed-out
Orleans has had to contend 2005. As storm-track forecasts destruction and a body count
with powerful, devastating zeroed in on the New Orleans that would exceed 1,400 in
hurricanes throughout its his- area, government officials and Louisiana alone.
tory. In particular, Hurricane residents began making pre-
Betsy in September 1965, and parations. On August 26, the
Hurricane Camille in August Louisiana governor declared
1969, caused much destruc- a state of emergency, and on
tion in the metro area. August 28, Mayor Ray Nagin
Each hurricane season, local ordered a mandatory evacu-
residents would follow the ation of New Orleans. Several
storm forecasts, but while thousand residents took to the
there had been several close highways, but many others
calls, the city had managed to stayed put; the Louisiana
escape major damage for many Superdome was opened as
years. However, rapidly accel- a refuge to shelter them.
erating coastal erosion was Katrina made landfall on Aug-
stripping away the massive wet- ust 29: winds knocked down
lands that stand between New trees, shattered windows, and
Orleans and the open waters tore roofs across the area. But
of the Gulf. These wetlands much worse damage came
would prove crucial as they from the wall of seawater the
provide a natural buffer hurricane had driven towards Aerial image of the city revealing
against tropical storms. the Gulf Coast. This storm the extent of the devastation

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T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 27

THE NEW ORLEANS SAINTS

With their hometown devastated and
their stadium, the Superdome, in ruins,
the New Orleans Saints football team
ended the 2005 season with one of the
National Football League’s worst records.
However, the team came roaring back
the following year. The restored Super-
dome reopened in September 2006,
just in time for the Saints’ first home
game since Katrina. The team won that
game and went on to end the season
with its first-ever division champion-
ship. Along the way, the Saints’ success
provided an uplifting cause for New
Orleanians, who embraced the team
The grand reopening of the Louisiana Superdome as a symbol of their city’s recovery.

got back to business, and own redevelopment plans.

PICKING UP THE PIECES volunteers from around the Private programs have also
world flocked to the area to proliferated to encourage
Neighborhoods built on high help with the recovery effort. environmentally sensitive
ground, such as the French Though the tourism and designs in rebuilding the city.
Quarter and the Garden convention industries were
District, did not flood and severely reduced, and staffing
were open for re-entry just shortages were rampant, New A NEW NEW ORLEANS
weeks after Katrina. For other Orleans managed to host its
areas, a slow planning process traditional Mardi Gras Today it is possible to visit
for rebuilding began as the celebration in February 2006. New Orleans without seeing
government debated how to a trace of the disaster, though
fund the immense recovery outside the historic areas the
effort. Residents slowly trickled REBUILDING BETTER devastation often remains
back and were provided with raw. Recovery continues on
thousands of trailers for As residents continued to a block-by-block basis, even
temporary lodging. return to New Orleans, the as large-scale reconstruction
Army Corps of Engineers projects begin to take shape.
began building a stronger, The city’s population is still
more advanced flood-control significantly smaller than before
system. This project will take Katrina. However, many of the
years to complete, but it is residents who have returned,
said to have already increased and newcomers drawn to New
the city’s level of protection. Orleans since the disaster, have
The federal government embraced the city’s cultural
eventually approved billions heritage and are reinvigorating
of dollars in aid to repair local its many unique traditions.
infrastructure and help The population has also taken
Debris amassed in front of a house residents rebuild their homes a renewed interest in politics
in the aftermath of Katrina and businesses. After several and wide-ranging political
central planning processes fell reforms have been created to
apart, frustrated neighborhood hold officials more accountable,
OPEN FOR BUSINESS groups began crafting their and improve civic institutions.

Despite the devastation and

lack of urban infrastructure,
the recovery of New Orleans
began to spread from the rela-
tively intact historic core to the
surrounding neighborhoods.
Restaurants and businesses
slowly reopened, sometimes
in makeshift conditions, and
the first schools resumed
lessons before the end of
2005. The New Orleans port,
the city’s long-standing
economic powerhouse, also Homes being built in the New Orleans Musicians’ Village

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28 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

History of Mardi Gras

Culminating on Mardi Gras – the day
before Ash Wednesday – the Carnival
celebrations in New Orleans attract visitors
from across the United States and around
the world. Since the 1700s the period
between Twelfth Night (January 6) and
Ash Wednesday, the start of Lent, has been
celebrated with lavish balls, presented by
private citizen groups known as “krewes.”
Although most balls are private, many
krewes also put on parades, with ornate Bacchus Kings
costumes and floats. These take place for The Krewe of Bacchus has
Mardi Gras ten days before Mardi Gras, with the oldest invited Bob Hope, Kirk
costume and most famous parades on Tuesday itself. Douglas, and Charlton
Heston to be their king.

Rex
This krewe was
founded in 1872
to organize a
spectacle for
Grand Duke
Alexis, a younger
son of Czar
Alexander II.

King Cake
The traditional
food of Carnival,
each king cake
contains a small
plastic figure of a
baby, representing
the baby Jesus.

Parade Floats
Each Krewe has 14 or
more colorful floats,
some still made of
traditional papier-
mâché, that are
pulled through the
city in the parades.

TIMELINE
1762 The Spanish 1857 Krewe of 1882 Krewe of
pass a law allowing 1827 Masquerade Comus founded at Proteus formed
only Caucasians to balls re- the Gem Saloon by men from the
wear masks authorized in the 100-block Cotton Exchange
of Royal Street
1750 1775 1800 1825 1850 1875
1805 Balls 1870 The Twelfth Night Revelers
and masking Krewe formed; the first to choose
banned and crown a queen

Old Mardi Gras costume 1872 Krewe of Rex formed

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T H E H I S T O R Y O F N E W O R L E A N S 29

WHERE TO SEE
MARDI GRAS
The history of Mardi Gras
is displayed at a permanent
exhibition in the Presbytère
(see pp56–7). Many floats are
constructed at Blaine Kern’s
Mardi Gras World (see p88)
and can be seen there all
year long.

French Quarter Celebrations

Crowds jam the French Quarter to watch the
costumed crowds and impromptu parades.

The Presbytère presents a

colorful display of Mardi
Throws Gras history.
Souvenir doubloons
(coins), beads, and
dolls are thrown
from the floats to
the crowds. This
tradition began
with Rex in 1881.

Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World

is the place where many of the
MARDI GRAS COLORS floats are made.
The purple, green, and gold masks, banners, and
other decorations that adorn buildings everywhere
during the Carnival season are derived from the Rex’s Scepter
original costume worn by Rex in the 1872 parade. The King of Mardi
He used a theatrical costume made for Richard III, Gras, a prominent
consisting of a purple velvet cloak with green rhine- New Orleans citizen,
stones and a golden scepter and crown. Today, these is chosen by the
colors are still used: purple symbolizing justice, Rex organization
green for faith, and gold for power. every year.

1968 Krewe of Bacchus 1991 A city ordinance requires

breaks traditions. It parading Krewes to open their
1909 Zulu, the first opens its ranks to all membership to all. Comus, Momus,
black krewe, organ- and invites celebrities and Proteus cancel their parades
ized as a parody to become its king Rex knight
1900 1925 1950 1975 2000 2025
1889 The first march- 1935 The Elks 2008 The city returns to
ing krewe, Jefferson organize the first 2000 Proteus resumes its pre-Katrina Mardi Gras
City Buzzards, founded truck krewe parading after a nine- parade schedule, with 11
year absence days of festivities

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USNO_030-031_At a glance.indd 30 15/5/08 9:56:20 AM
 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S 31

NEW ORLEANS AT A GLANCE

T here are more than 100 places
of interest described in this
book. They range from the
legendary Bourbon Street to the quiet
and beautiful live oaks in City Park,
following eight pages are a time-
saving guide to the best New Orleans
has to offer. Architecture, wrought
and cast iron, and culture have their
own sections. There is also a guide to
and from Jackson Square, with its the diverse cultures that have given
spontaneous jazz street-musicians, to this city its unique character and
the scientific exhibits in the Audubon feeling. Below is a selection of sights
Aquarium of the Americas. The that no visitor should miss.

NEW ORLEANS TOP TEN SIGHTS

Garden District
See pp98–113 Royal Street
Old US Mint See pp48–49
See pp74–75

St. Charles Avenue

Streetcar See pp104–105

Audubon Aquarium of the

Bourbon Street Americas See pp90–91
See pp46–47

Audubon Zoo
See pp112–13

Jackson Square City Park Steamboat Natchez

See p54 See pp116–17 See pp64–65

Chartres Street, near Jackson Square

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 32 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

Exploring New Orleans’ Many Cultures

New Orleans’ unique flavor derives from
the incredible mix of peoples and cultures THE SPANISH
assembled on the banks of the Mississippi
River; Native American, French, Spanish, The Spanish took over from
African, Anglo-American, Jewish, Italian, the French as administrators
of Louisiana from 1763 to
German, Irish, and Cajun (Acadian). They 1800 (see pp16–17), but few
have all contributed to the “gumbo” that is immigrants from Spain actually
African mask New Orleans. settled in New Orleans.
Spanish is still spoken by
descendants of the “Isleños”
– people who came at the
request of the Spanish from the
Canary Islands in the 1770s.
In the 1950s, Latin American
refugees from Cuba, Nicaragua,
and Honduras flooded into
the city. The most obvious
Hispanic influence can be seen
throughout the French Quarter
in the design of the buildings,
as well as in the cuisine.

THE GERMANS

French colonists signing a treaty with Native Americans The first Germans arrived in
1722, lured by John Law’s
early 18th centuries. Refugees promotion of the colony as
THE NATIVE AMERICANS from the French colony of an earthly paradise (see p15).
Saint Domingue added a dis- About 10,000 had left their
Numerous Native American tinct West Indian flavor to the homes in the Rhineland be-
tribes lived in the Delta: culture at the beginning of tween 1719 and 1720 after the
Attakpas, Bayougoula, the 19th century. There was a Thirty Years’ War. Nearly 2,000
Okelousa, Choctaw, Houma, continuous flow of immigration arrived in the region, settling
Tunica, and Chitimacha. from France throughout the as small farmers about 25
They were either wiped out rest of the century. Their in- miles (40 km) upstream from
like the Natchez, who were fluence is most clearly seen New Orleans. A second wave
destroyed in the war of 1730, in the cuisine as well as in followed between 1820 and
or removed, like the Choctaw, architecture and decorative 1850, bringing thousands more,
to Oklahoma. Only scattered arts, such as the furniture who were fleeing political
traces of these tribes remain, created by Prudence Mallard. turmoil in Europe. Another
mostly outside the city. wave followed just before the
Civil War, and then another
THE AFRICAN CULTURES
THE FRENCH
The first slaves arrived in
The French came down the 1720, and by 1724 there were
Mississippi from Canada and enough to justify establishing
explored and settled the the Code Noir for their control.
region in the late 17th and New Orleans became known
for its large number of free
people of color, many of
whom came from Haiti during
the 1791–1808 Haitian Revolu-
tion. On the eve of the Civil
War, the city had 13,000 blacks,
slave and free. From Africa and
the West Indies came music
that influenced the birth of jazz
(see pp20–21). During Mardi
Gras and on St. Joseph’s Day
(March 19), the Mardi Gras
Indians in lavish costumes pay
The French Market, where the city’s homage to native Americans Mardi Gras Indian, unique to
diverse cultures mix who hid runaway slaves. New Orleans

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 N E W O R L E A N S A T A G L A N C E 33

from 1865 to the 1890s. Most

German immigrants settled
inland, but by 1870 there
were more than 15,000 living
in New Orleans itself. For a
time they were the largest im-
migrant group in Louisiana.

THE CAJUNS

When the British gained

control of French Canada, they
insisted that the Acadians
swear an oath to the British
crown. When they refused,
they were exiled. Many re- A jazz band marching in the French Quarter
turned to France, but others
traveled south to Catholic Many of them were of Scots- in New Orleans, crowded
Spanish Louisiana. The first Irish or English descent. They into a narrow area dubbed
650 people arrived in the settled in what became the the “Irish Channel” between
region in 1765 and settled American Quarter on the the river and Magazine Street,
as farmers along the bayous upriver side of Canal Street, east of Louisiana Avenue.
west of New Orleans. They and brought another new The majority of them worked
continued to speak their 17th- architectural style to the city. as laborers (building the
century French until 1916, New Basin Canal), and
when the use of French was as stevedores. The later
banned in all schools and THE JEWS generations became very
government organizations. successful in politics.
Today, Cajun culture is under- There was a vibrant Jewish
going a renaissance, assisted community in New Orleans as
by Cajun and zydeco artists early as 1718, but it wasn’t until THE ITALIANS
and chefs such as Paul 1828 that the first synagogue
Prudhomme, of K-Paul’s was organized. In the 19th Although some Italians
Louisiana Kitchen (see p177). century, many Jews emigrated arrived before the Civil War,
from Germany and Eastern many more arrived later and
Europe. Samuel Zemurray, for replaced the blacks as agri-
one, started a fruit-importing cultural laborers. By 1890
company, which eventually there were more than 25,000
became the United Fruit living in New Orleans, and
Company. He was a great more arrived at the turn of
philanthropist, and donated the century. Most came from
enormous sums of money to Sicily and settled in the poor
Tulane University (see p110). French Quarter, where they
started out as laborers, ped-
dlers, and market vendors,
THE IRISH bringing interesting new
Cajun craftsman sitting at a flavors to the French Market.
traditional workbench The Irish arrived in the mid- Their influence can be seen
19th century, fleeing the 1840 mainly in the cuisine, includ-
potato famine in Ireland. By ing the popular muffuletta
THE ANGLO-AMERICANS 1860 there were 24,000 Irish sandwich (see p172).

The rough-and-ready men

who piloted the riverboats
down the Mississippi were
the first Americans to arrive
in New Orleans and give it
its reputation as a City of
Sin. They came in search of
“dixies,” or ten-dollar bills,
and their carousing became
notorious. After the Louisiana
Purchase in 1803 (see p17),
government workers and land
speculators migrated from
the east coast, all seeking
fortunes in the new territory. A New Orleans canal, built by Irish laborers

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 34 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

The Architecture of New Orleans

New Orleans is one of the few American cities
that has managed to retain much of its historic
architecture. The French Quarter has many
buildings dating back 150 years or more, while
the Garden District has splendid mansions
designed in a variety of styles. Beautiful
French dormer houses line Esplanade Avenue, historically
the residential nucleus of the Creole elite,
and the city also possesses a good stock of 19th-century
public buildings built in Greek Revival style. It is not
always easy to categorize buildings by style, for many
Eastlake-style townhouse
of them are hybrids, like the Gallier House, which on Esplanade Avenue
incorporated both Creole and American features.

CREOLE COTTAGE
Only a few buildings, such as the Old Ursuline Convent (see p68)
and Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (see p78), remain from this period,
which combines various French styles of the 18th century. Most
were destroyed by a series of fires: one, in 1788, destroyed 856
wooden buildings; a second in 1794 destroyed 212 buildings.
The brick chimney rose through
The roof was made
the center of the house.
of wood tiles.
Brick, stucco, and
timber walls

Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

is a fine example of
Water channels
brick between posts, protected the
in which soft wood from
local bricks are water damage.
supported by
cypress timbers
and protected
Gas lamps
by plaster. were added
in the 19th
century.

SPANISH COLONIAL
After the 1788 and 1794 fires, the Spanish decreed that any building of
more than one story must be constructed of brick. The houses that
were subsequently built can still be seen in the French Quarter.
They often combine residence and store, and feature arcaded The second floor
walls, heavy doors and windows, and a flagstone alleyway was the family
leading to a loggia and fountain-graced courtyard. home.

The attic was used

as a warehouse.

Walls were built

of brick instead
of wood.

Napoleon House,
in the French Quarter,
19th-century cast- is a typical three-
iron balconies storied Spanish house.
Only the crowning
tower is unique.

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 N E W O R L E A N S A T A G L A N C E 35

FEDERAL TOWNHOUSE
Americans from the Atlantic states brought their Greek Revival
own architectural preferences with them, and the elements, like the
columns, were used
successful among them erected Federal-
in these houses.
style homes that stand out from the
French or Spanish cottages sur-
rounding them in the Quarter. Doorway with
fanlight transoms
Gallerieswere sup-
ported by columns
and window
architraves.
The Beauregard-
Keyes House was
Cast-iron details
built in 1827 and
were used as restored in the 1950s
decoration. by novelist Frances
Parkinson Keyes.

RAISED AMERICAN COTTAGE SHOTGUN HOUSE

Most of these raised cottages feature These cottages were so called because a
extensive eaves and an alleyway leading bullet fired from a shotgun through the
to a rear garden or courtyard. The interior front door would go straight through the
usually contains four rooms arranged house and out the back as all the doors
symmetrically and separated by a center were aligned. They come in single and
hall. The kitchen and servants’ quarters double versions, and usually have a set
are away from the house at the rear. of box steps in front.
Gabled roofs were Main bedrooms
popular and were were usually at the The main doorway Simple balconies
often high enough front of the house. leads directly into the overlook the porch.
for an attic. first room.

A wide balcony
faced the street.

Esplanade Avenue is The ground floor The French Quarter has Box steps
lined with several kinds was used as a several examples of
of these raised cottages. storage area. traditional shotgun houses.

THE CREOLE PLANTATION HOUSE

The refugees from Saint Domingue (Haiti) brought this Caribbean-style French doors
dwelling to New Orleans. This one-story residence is usually raised gave access to
on brick pillars (to catch the breezes and to cope with flooding) and the veranda.
incorporates a wraparound veranda. The space below the house and
the flagstone piazza below the veranda are used as service or
Wide verandas
storage areas. were built at the
front entrance.

Brick pillars
raised the Plantation houses
house. were the most
popular style of
residences built
along the Bayou
St. John.

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 36 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

Famous New Orleanians

Because of its cultural roots, geographic importance,
and easy-going ways, New Orleans has been a
magnet for creative people since the 18th century.
A great many writers and artists came here to live,
and, like Tennessee Williams, called New Orleans
their spiritual home. Others, like Louis Armstrong,
were born here. Nurtured by its culture, they carried
their musical, literary, and artistic creations to the
rest of the world.

Marie Laveau
The most famous voodoo
queen in New Orleans (see
pp82–3), Laveau celebrated
her rituals on the banks of
Bayou St. John.

Po
nt

e
ch
nu
ar
e t ra
Av
in
n

Ex
lto

pr
ol

Cl es
rr

ai sw
Ca

bo ay
rn
e
Av
Truman Capote e nu
e
This famous author was
born in Touro Infirmary
in the Garden District. He
wrote his first work, Other
Voices, Other Rooms, in a
rented room at 711 Royal St.

St
.C
h ar
le
s
GARDEN DISTRICT
Av
e nu
e

Anne Rice
Born in New Orleans, Mahalia Jackson
author Anne Rice attended This gospel singer
Redemptorist School and (see p80) was born
once lived at 1239 First on Water Street
Street in the Garden District. and grew up at
The city stars in her Vampire an aunt’s house at
Chronicles (see p107). 7467 Esther Street.

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10:16:49 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S A T A G L A N C E 37

Louis Armstrong
Born in a shack
at 2723 Jane Alley,
Louis Armstrong
strongly influenced
the development of
solo jazz performances
(see pp20–21). Armstrong
Park (see p79), near the
French Quarter, and
the city’s airport are
named after him.
Es
pl
an
ad William Faulkner
e
Av
e nu His first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
e was written at 624 Pirate’s
Alley (see p55), when he was
living in the city in 1925.
MID-CITY

TREME MARIGNY
Ca
na
l LOWER
St
re FRENCH
et
Tu
QUARTER
la ne
Av
en
ue

UPPER FRENCH
Andrew Jackson
QUARTER This general won the
WAREHOUSE AND Battle of New Orleans
CENTRAL BUSINESS
in 1815 (see p17) at
DISTRICTS
Chalmette Battlefield.
S I P P I
M I S S I S
Ja c
ks
on
Av
e nu
e

John James Audubon

Throughout his career the
noted naturalist and painter
Edgar Degas lived on the edge of poverty, first
The French painter at 706 Barracks Street, then at
visited the city in Oakley House plantation, where
1872–73 (see he stayed in 1821 (see p151).
p126). During this
period he painted 0 kilometers 1
many well-known
pictures and 0 miles 1
portraits.

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 38 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

New Orleans Ironwork

The shadows cast by New Orleans ironwork
add a romantic touch to the city. Wrought
iron, which came first, was fashioned by
hand into beautiful shapes by German, Irish,
and black artisans. Cast iron, on the other
hand, was poured into wooden molds and
allowed to set. As a result, the latter has a
Cast-iron
somewhat solid, fixed appearance, unlike
detail wrought iron, which is handmade and has
a more fluid aspect. Examples of both kinds
of work can be seen throughout the city, particularly
in the French Quarter and the Garden District.

Colonial-style house, Royal Street

Decorative iron balconies with unique designs and

patterns are seen on many galleries. They are admired
as much today as they were in colonial times.

Royal Street’s
famous corn-
stalk fence

The Pontalba Buildings, commissioned

by Baroness Pontalba (see p55),
started the craze for ironwork.
Completed in 1850, they transformed
the profile of Jackson Square (see
p54). Some of the patterns were
designed by the Baroness’s son.
The signature of New Orleans is Creole ironwork, which
appears in many forms, including fences, gates, window
grilles, balconies, hinges, doorknobs, and lanterns.

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10:22:44 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S A T A G L A N C E 39

Wrought ironing contains

a purer iron. Handmade
and stronger than cast
iron, it is very common in
the French Quarter.

Ironwork details were added

to many buildings in the
1850s. Lacy balconies
depicting oak leaf and acorn
can be seen on the LaBranch
House at 700 Royal Street.

Cast iron shaped in elaborate designs

was often used in homes in the Garden
District. It was superior to wood because
it withstood humidity.

CORNSTALK FENCES
There are two “cornstalk” fences in
New Orleans, so-called because of
their decorative motifs. One is at 915
Royal Street (see p77), the other at
Colonel Short’s Villa in the Garden
District (see p107). Both feature
cornstalks entwined with morning
glories and ears of corn; the former
is painted in natural colors.

IRONWORK MOTIFS
In the 1850s, Philadelphia
iron-mongers Wood & Perot
opened a branch office in
New Orleans. Offering
Cast-iron hundreds of patterns specially
railing detail designed for the city, the
company quickly
grew, its motifs including
abstracts, acorns, fruits, cherubs,
bacchants, vines, and animals.
These were soon seen in
railings throughout the city.

Popular balcony motifs

USNO_038-039 Port 6.indd 39 15/5/08 10:23:19

10:22:48 AM
 40 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

NEW ORLEANS
THROUGH THE YEAR
A wide variety of activities and
events takes place in New
Orleans all through the
year. The spring and fall,
enjoying the most temperate
Orleans, such as the French
Quarter Festival in April. The
city also throws parties for
the major holidays, especially
4th of July and New Year’s
weather, are the best times to Eve. The high points of the year,
visit. Although the pace slows however, are Mardi Gras with all
with the heat of the summer, the Carnival festivities, beginning
the city is still alive with in January and running through
indoor and outdoor events. early March, and the New Orleans
Some festivities celebrate Jazz Fest Jazz and Heritage Festival (Jazz
themes specific to New musician Fest) in late April and early May.

parade on Mardi Gras (“Fat locations to honor the

SPRING Tuesday”, or the Tuesday celebrated writer, with
before Lent). There are day theatrical productions,
During the spring the weather and night parades, and lectures, readings, literary
is at its best in New Orleans, masked balls, some of which walking tours, and panel
neither too hot nor too are open to the public. The discussions on New Orleans-
humid. There are two main whole city is on party time, based authors and books.
events in the city, both of so it’s advisable to book Don’t miss the “Stella and
which are internationally hotels well in advance (for Stanley” screamfest held
renowned: Mardi Gras, with parade dates and times see in Jackson Square (www.
its parades, street celebra- www.mardigras.com). tennesseewilliams.net).
tions, and masked balls all St. Patrick’s Day Parade
over the city, and the Jazz (weekend before and on Mar
Fest, which is held over two 17). The city commemorates
long weekends. It is very Ireland’s famous patron saint
important to have confirmed with parades through the
reservations for transporta- French Quarter, Irish Channel,
tion and lodging during this and Old Metairie Road,
peak season. where potatoes, onions,
and carrots are thrown to
MARCH the public. An all-day street
party around Parasol’s Bar in
Mardi Gras (Feb, dates vary). the Irish Channel takes place
The lively Carnival festivities on St. Patrick’s Day itself.
(see pp28–9) begin two or St. Joseph’s Day (on and A huge jazz brunch at the French
three weeks before Mardi around Mar 19). The city’s Quarter Festival
Gras and end with the last Italian population honors
the patron saint of Sicily APRIL
with elaborate altars of
food. Angelo Brocato’s French Quarter Festival
ice-cream parlor (see p183) (second weekend). To cele-
is one of the best places to brate the food and music of
see an altar. New Orleans, this festival is
Crescent City Classic (last held in the French Quarter,
Saturday). Since 1979 world- with free musical entertain-
class runners have gathered ment, “the world’s largest
in New Orleans for this jazz brunch,” fireworks over
10,000-meter race from the the Mississippi River, and
French Quarter to City Park. children’s activities (www.
Thousands of amateur run- frenchquarterfestivals.org).
ners join in (www.ccff.org). Spring Fiesta (begins Fri
Tennessee Williams New night after Easter, lasting
Orleans Literary Festival and five days). With the French
Writers’ Conference (late Quarter’s historic homes
A family dressed in colorful Mar). This five-day cultural as the main attraction, this
Mardi Gras costumes festival takes place in various celebration also has a parade

USNO_040-041 Seasonal 1.indd 40 15/5/08 10:31:27

10:30:12 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 41

AVERAGE DAILY HOURS OF SUNSHINE

Hours
10
Sunshine Chart
8 From May through
September the weather
6
is hot and humid,
4
and the sun shines
for six to eight hours
2 a day. From October
through March the
0 temperature is colder,
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
and there are often
heavy fogs.

The festivities conclude with

SUMMER a spectacular fireworks
display (www.go4thon
Hot and extremely humid theriver.com).
weather along with daily
thunderstorms make sum- AUGUST
mertime in New Orleans the
off-season period. Since this White Linen Night (first Sat).
is also the time when hurri- An open-air event in which
canes and tropical storms a number of art galleries take
are frequent, it is wise to their exhibits outdoors to the
be prepared for weather Warehouse Art District.
Crowds enjoying the music at the alerts. The biggest celebra- Satchmo SummerFest (first
Jazz Fest tion in the city is 4th of weekend). This annual
July (Independence Day). festival is usually scheduled
that ends with the coro- to coincide with the great
nation of a local queen. JUNE jazz icon’s birthday. Held in
New Orleans Jazz and the French Quarter, with
Heritage Festival (Jazz Fest) Great French Market Tomato jazz, food, kids’ events, and
(last weekend in Apr and Festival (first weekend). Held special programs (www.
first weekend in May). In in and around the French satchmosummerfest.com).
this eight-day festival, held Market, this unique festival Southern Decadence (last
at the Fair Grounds, more offers cooking demonstra- week of Aug to Labor Day).
than 4,000 jazz musicians tions and local cuisine There is Mardi Gras, and
entertain, with a large (www.frenchmarket.org). then there is Southern Deca-
selection of traditional food, dence, a gay street party that
crafts, and evening concerts JULY has over-the-top costumes,
(www.nojazzfest.com). parades, rowdy behavior,
Go 4th on the River (Jul 4). and a great time for adults.
MAY The riverfront hosts the Centered in the French
Independence Day Quarter, it culminates on
Zoo-to-Do (first Fri in May). celebrations. There is music, Labor Day, the first Monday
The largest one-night fund- food, and entertainment of September (www.
raising event in the country suitable for the whole family. southerndecadence.com).
takes place at Audubon Zoo
(see pp112–13), with unfor-
gettable dances among the
animals, under the stars.
Greek Festival (weekend be-
fore Memorial Day weekend).
The Hellenic Cultural Center,
near Lake Pontchartrain,
hosts two days of cuisine,
music, and arts and crafts.
New Orleans Wine & Food
Experience (Memorial Day
weekend). US and European
wineries come to town for
parties, talks, and tastings
(www.nowfe.com). Go 4th on the River celebration at Woldenberg Park

USNO_040-041 Seasonal 1.indd 41 15/5/08 10:31:28

10:30:29 AM
 42 I N T R O D U C I N G N E W O R L E A N S

AVERAGE MONTHLY RAINFALL

MM Inches Rainfall Chart
300 12 New Orleans is one
of the rainiest cities in
240
9 the United States, and
180
July and August are
6 its rainiest months,
120 with daily showers.
3
Tropical storms can
60 cause widespread
power failures. The
0 0 hurricane season
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
lasts from June to
November.

Lesbian and Gay Pride

Festival (weekend nearest
Oct 11). This festival takes
place at Washington Square
Park in Marigny, and
includes music, food, shop-
ping opportunities, and
plenty of live entertainment.
Halloween in New Orleans
(on and around 31 Oct). A
run-up to Mardi Gras with
Alligator close-up at the Louisiana Swamp Festival masking, costumes, and
impromptu street parties
Louisiana Swamp Festival along Bourbon Street. Kids
FALL (late Sep, early Oct). For two get a big party at Audubon
weekends, at the Audubon Zoo – the Boo-at-the-Zoo.
Although there may still be Zoo (see pp112–13), live
rainy days in September, the Louisiana swamp animals NOVEMBER
driest months of the year are are the center of attention.
October and November, Those brave enough to Thanksgiving Day Race
when both humidity and touch them are allowed to (fourth Thu in Nov). This
heat decrease. Thanksgiving do so, under close supervi- 5-mile (8-km) run celebrates
is the most important cele- sion. There is also Cajun Thanksgiving.
bration of this season, and it food, music, and crafts. New Orleans Fair Grounds
launches the biggest selling Horse Racing Season (opens
period of the year. The New OCTOBER Thanksgiving Day). The
Orleans’ Saints football team thoroughbred racing season
starts the NFL season which Oktoberfest (every week- lasts from late November
lasts through December. end). The German community through March, at the
celebrates its cultural roots country’s third-oldest
SEPTEMBER at the Deutsches Haus (200 racetrack (see p126).
Galvez St (504) 522-8014) Celebration in the Oaks
Madisonville Wooden Boat with music, food, and beer. (late Nov through early Jan).
Festival (last weekend Sep). New Orleans Film and City Park (see pp116–17) is
The largest gathering of Video Festival (early to mid- transformed by countless
wooden water craft in the Oct). This week-long event sparkling Christmas lights.
the New Orleans area, at at the Canal Place
picturesque Madisonville on Landmark Theater pre-
the Tchefuncte River. A Kids sents the works of
Dingy Workshop, Quick and filmmakers from all
Dirty Boat Building Contest, over the world. Visiting
and live entertainment (www. celebrities, authors,
lpbmaritimemuseum.org). and film stars always
Saints Football (Sep–Dec, attend the event.
Louisiana Superdome). The Jazz Awareness
NFL football season starts Month (all month).
in September with games Celebrating jazz at
at the Louisiana Superdome its birthplace, daily
(see p95) through December concerts are held The Fair Grounds, home to thoroughbred
or January (see pp196–7). throughout the city. racing in the Deep South

USNO_042-043 Seas 2.indd 42 15/5/08 10:40:41

10:39:54 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 43

AVERAGE MONTHLY TEMPERATURE

°C °F
90
Temperature Chart
30
New Orleans is a
25 80 semi-tropical city,
20 70 and during the
summer the tempera-
15 60
ture may rise above
10 50 90°F (33°C). Winters
5 40
are relatively mild,
as are spring and fall,
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
30 which are the most
comfortable times
of year to visit.

Mardi Gras (early Feb to

WINTER early Mar). Carnival begins
on Jan 6 with masked balls
The winter months are and other celebrations.
enlivened by the holiday However, the majority of
spirit of Christmas and New the parades do not take
Year. As soon as Christmas place until the second week-
festivities end on Twelfth end before Mardi Gras itself
Night (Jan 6), the excitement (the Tuesday before Lent).
of Mardi Gras begins to build
with events and preparations PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
for the main celebrations
before Lent. New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Martin Luther King Day
DECEMBER Mardi Gras Parade at the Central (3rd Mon, Jan)
Business District Mardi Gras Day
Christmas (all month). (varies, Feb 3–Mar 9)
Candlelight caroling in A live reenactment of this Presidents Day
Jackson Square (see p54), 1815 battle (see p17) is
(3rd Mon, Feb)
madrigal dinners, and his- performed at Chalmette
toric homes decorated for Battlefield in St. Bernard Memorial Day (end May)
Christmas in the French Parish, featuring colorful Independence Day
Quarter and Garden District. period costumes and (Jul 4)
Festival of Bonfires (early to artillery demonstrations. Labor Day
mid-Dec and on Christmas (1st Mon, Sep)
Eve). Both riverboats (see FEBRUARY Columbus Day
pp64–5) and paddlewheelers (2nd Mon, Oct)
ply the Mississippi River in New Orleans Boat &
Veterans Day (Nov 11)
this blazing festival in which Sportfishing Show (second
local people build bonfires week). A display at the Thanksgiving
to guide Santa Claus to their Louisiana Superdome (see (4th Thu, Nov)
hometown for Christmas. p95), with all the latest Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Countdown (Dec 31). On fishing accessories.
New Year’s Eve, people
gather at Jackson Square
(see p54) to await and cele-
brate the arrival of the New
Year with live music, food,
and fireworks.

JANUARY

Sugar Bowl (first week).

Hundreds of college football
fans gather in the Louisiana
Superdome (see p95) for this
important postseason game.
Battle of New Orleans
Anniversary (weekend
closest to Jan 8). Fireworks at the traditional Countdown on New Year’s Eve

USNO_042-043 Seas 2.indd 43 15/5/08 10:40:41

10:40:11 AM
USNO_044-045 opener.indd 44 15/5/08 10:49:56 AM
 NEW ORLEANS
AREA BY AREA

BOURBON STREET 4647

ROYAL STREET 4849
UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 5065
LOWER FRENCH QUARTER,
MARIGNY, AND TREME 6683
WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL BUSINESS
DISTRICTS 8497
GARDEN DISTRICT AND UPTOWN 98113
MIDCITY 114127
THREE GUIDED WALKS 128135

USNO_044-045 opener.indd 45 15/5/08 10:50:28

10:50:03 AM
 46 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

A View of Bourbon Street

Today Bourbon Street, rather
than Basin Street, is synonymous
with sin. The name has nothing
to do with bourbon, despite the
Tile street sign on string of bars that line this
Bourbon Street legendary street; it is named
after the French royal family of Bourbon. One bar
after another proffers vats of such lethal concoctions
as Nuclear Kamikaze, Brain Freeze, and Sex on the
Bayou, most often to the accompaniment of blasting
rock or blues. Other emporiums offer everything from
peep shows and topless and go-go dancers, to drag The Famous Door
shows and gay action. During Mardi Gras, the lacy This nightclub lives with
balconies above the sidewalks literally sag from the the beat of live 1970s and
weight of drinking revelers. 1980s rock music.

ST
LOUIS
ST.
ST
ST

ST

CONTI
IBERVILLE

BIENVILLE

Arnaud’s
Count Arnaud
Cazenave opened the
original Arnaud’s in
1918. There are 17
dining rooms with
mosaic tiles, mirrored
walls, and paddle fans
(see p176).
Galatoire’s
Run by the Galatoire family
since 1905, this restaurant
has the ambience of a
perpetual cocktail party.

Old Absinthe
House The World
This building Jeweler
is notable for Lafcadio
its entresol, Hearn, the
the half-story famous Ameri-
between the can journalist,
first and rented a room
second floors. here in 1827.
The bustling Central Business District

USNO_046-047 Sp/Feat1.indd 46 15/5/08 11:01:16

10:54:51 AM
 B O U R B O N S T R E E T 47

Chris Owen’s Club

The legendary Owens has been Preservation Hall
on Bourbon Street for decades. An aptly named music venue, Preservation Hall has
Dynamic shows include Las helped preserve traditional New Orleans jazz. It
Vegas-style cabaret. opened in 1961, and still provides top-quality jazz.
ST
ST
ST

PETER
TOULOUSE
LOUIS

ST.
ST.

ST
ORLEANS

Cats Meow
The French Opera House A young crowd
Until it burned down in frequents this
1919, the French Opera lively bar and
House was the social and its balcony.
artistic hub of New Orleans.
Nowadays there is a bar
on the spot.

Pat O’Brien’s
The birthplace
of the inter-
nationally
renowned
“Hurricane”
cocktail,
O’Brien’s has
a spectacular
fire fountain Fritzel’s
in the main Refurbished in 2007, Fritzel’s is the only
courtyard. traditional European jazz club in the city.

USNO_046-047 Sp/Feat1.indd 47 15/5/08 11:01:17

10:55:06 AM
 48 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

A View of Royal Street

This is the most fetching street in the
French Quarter. It is lined with
antique shops that are filled with
beautiful, often French, treasures
Tile street sign associated with an opulent Southern
on Royal lifestyle; crystal chandeliers, massive
inlaid armoires, ormolu furnishings, and more. In the
early colony this was the city’s financial center and its
main and most fashionable street. Today, many stores Street musicians provide open-air
occupy handsome landmarks. entertainment on Royal Street

CONTI ST

Louisiana State Brennan’s (# 417)

Bank (# 403) Built around 1802 for a
Built in 1821, this Spanish merchant, this build-
building was ing later became a bank
designed by and the property of Judge
Benjamin Latrobe Alonzo Morphy. Brennan’s
(right), who also restaurant moved here in
designed the US 1954 (see p176). Its balcony
Capitol’s south wing. seal is made of cast iron.
0 meters 10

0 yards 10

ST. LOUIS ST TOULOUSE ST

Rumors
This gift shop sells Mardi
Gras paraphernalia all year
long. Masks, beads, krewe
costumes, and posters are The Historic New Orleans Collection (# 533)
all for sale (see p192). Occupying a complex of houses built in 1792 for Jean-
François Merieult and his wife, this museum boasts a
magnificent collection of art and artifacts (see pp60–61).

USNO_048-049 Sp/Feat2.indd 48 15/5/08 11:07:55

11:07:11 AM
 R O YA L S T R E E T 49

A Street of Living #063#0/





453&&5

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are today occupied
by fine stores and LOCATOR MAP
restaurants.

0 meters 10

0 yards 10

ST. LOUIS ST

Antoine Peychaud’s
Moss Antiques offers
a fine range of Pharmacy (# 437)
French antiques. The cocktail was born here
when pharmacist Antoine
Peychaud mixed brandy
with his bitters and served
the potion in a coquetier
(see p174). Today it is an
0 meters 10
antique shop.
0 yards 10

ST. PETER ST ORLEANS ST

St. Anthony’s
Garden
This beautiful
garden (see p55)
stands at the
back of St. Louis
Cathedral. Its
serenity hides
the fact that it
was a staging
ground for
duels in the The La Branche Buildings (# 700)
18th century. Embellished with fine oak-leaf ironwork,
these buildings were constructed in 1835
for sugar planter Jean Baptiste LaBranche.

USNO_048-049 Sp/Feat2.indd 49 15/5/08 11:07:56

11:07:28 AM
USNO_050-051_A1intro.indd 50 15/5/08 11:09:57 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 51

UPPER FRENCH QUAR TER

T he French Quarter is
synonymous with New
Orleans. The original 20
blocks were laid out around
present-day Jackson Square
the Vieux Carré (meaning Old
Square) is quintessential New
Orleans. The colorful Creole-
style cottages featuring jalousie-
shuttered windows stand
in 1721. The Upper French flush along the sidewalks.
Quarter runs from Iberville Cupid statue in There are also several Spanish-
Street to St. Ann and includes Le Petit Théâtre style buildings decorated with
the busiest blocks of Decatur, lacy iron galleries. This iconic
Chartres, Royal, and Bourbon streets. neighborhood escaped with very little
The last of these is particularly lively, wind damage from Hurricane Katrina
offering several bars that promise and experienced no flooding in the
rollicking good times. Architecturally, days that followed.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Historic Buildings Museums and Galleries Theaters
Louisiana Supreme Court The 1850 House 3 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux
Building q Hermann-Grima Historic Carré 5
Napoleon House w House 9
Père Antoine Alley and St. Historic New Orleans Parks and Gardens
Anthony’s Garden 7 Collection pp60–61 0 Jackson Square 1
Pirate’s Alley 6 Jean Lafitte National Historical
Pontalba Buildings 4 Park Visitor Center r Boat Trips
St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, Musée Conti Wax Museum 8 Steamboat Natchez t
and Presbytère pp56–7 2 New Orleans Pharmacy
Museum e KEY
Street-by-Street map
See pp52–3
v Streetcar stop
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St. Louis Cathedral in Jackson Square

USNO_050-051_A1intro.indd 51 15/5/08 11:10:25

11:10:02 AM
 52 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Upper French Quarter

This is the heart of the French Quarter,
containing a striking and harmonious
collection of buildings. The lively
Jackson Square initially served as a
military parade ground, or place d’armes,
where troops were trained and drilled,
executions carried out, and public meetings
held. The Cathedral, Cabildo, and Presbytère
Leech jar, face the square. It was redesigned in 1848,
Pharmacy when Baroness Pontalba built the two elegant
Museum
apartment buildings on the upriver and
downriver sides of the square. An impressive statue Père Antoine Alley and
of General Jackson was also unveiled in the center of St. Anthony’s Garden
the square, where artists now display their work. This garden was a favorite
local dueling place in the
19th century 7
Tennesee Williams
wrote A Streetcar
Named Desire in an
apartment at 632 St.
Peter Street.

Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré

This theater, established in 1916,
T
O

moved to its current location in

U

ET
LO

RE
1919. The building is a replica ST
U

ES
S

R
of the original 5
W
T
E

AR
IL
CH
S

K
T

IN
S
O
N

The Omni Royal

Orleans hotel (see
p162) is constructed
on the site of the
1836 St. Louis Hotel.
KEY
Suggested route

ET
RE
ST
U R
C AT
DE

STAR SIGHTS
. The 1850 House
. Jackson Square

Napoleon House . St. Louis Cathedral,

The most beloved bar in the French Quarter is Cabildo, and
devoted to Napoleon’s memory. His portraits Presbytère
and other memorabilia adorn the walls w
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

USNO_052-053_A1 SBS1.indd 52 15/5/08 11:16:51

11:14:47 AM
 U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 53

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play in front of LOCATOR MAP
the cathedral. See Street Finder maps 4 and 5

S
T
.
A
N
N
S

. The 1850 House

T
R
E

This small museum displays

E
T

opulent furniture and

ST

decorations that convey the

.
IL

PE

middle-class lifestyles of the

K

TE
IN

antebellum era 3
S

ST
O
N

. Jackson Square
A magnificent statue of General
Jackson takes center stage in
the square, where artists hang
their works “on the fence” 1
Pontalba Buildings
The handsome Pontalba 0 meters 30
apartments, built in 1848 for
$302,000, are located on 0 yards 30
the upriver and downriver
sides of the square 4

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 54 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Jackson Square 1
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 3, 5, 55.

Today an attractive and lively

meeting place, this square was
named the Place d’Armes in
the early French colony, when
it was little more than a muddy
field. Here the troops were
drilled, criminals were placed
in the stocks, and executions
were carried out. When
Andrew Jackson defeated the
British at the Battle of New
Orleans in 1815 (see p17), the Jazz band playing in Jackson Square
square was renamed in his
honor. It was not until 1848 The park is landscaped in a St. Louis Cathedral,
that the Baroness Pontalba radial pattern, with walkways
paid for its beautification and stemming out from the center Cabildo, and
laid out the gardens and and there are plenty of benches Presbytère 2
pathways of the square as to sit and enjoy the charm of
they exist today. Under the historical houses. See pp56–7.
her auspices, the Outside the park,
Pelanne brothers diverse artists rent
designed the hand- space and hang
some wrought-iron their works on the The 1850 House 3
fence that encloses enclosing fence,
the square. At the and there are plenty 523 St. Ann St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-
center stands a of artists waiting to 6968. @ 3, 5, 55. # 9am–5pm
statue of General draw your portrait Tue–Sun. ¢ public hols. & 8
Jackson astride a Water vessel in or caricature. On
rearing horse, The 1850 House the flagstones In the Lower Pontalba Build-
which was sculp- around the square, ing, this museum recreates an
ted by Clark Mills for $30,000. tarot-card readers, jazz antebellum apartment. The
The inscription, “The Union musicians, and clowns three-story residence above
must and shall be preserved,” entertain visitors throughout the ground-floor space is
on the plinth was added by the week. There are also accessed by a dramatic circular
Union General Benjamin shops on the ground level staircase. The bedrooms
“Beast” Butler, when he of the Pontalba Apartments, contain all the innovations of
occupied the city during the selling gifts, clothing, candy their day, including walk-in
American Civil War (see p18). stores, and ice cream. closets and private bathrooms.

The Pontalba Buildings, the upriver side of Jackson Square

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

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 U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 55

Also displayed are decorative

arts and everyday artifacts of
the period. A gift shop
occupies the ground floor.

Pontalba
Buildings 4
St. Peter and St. Ann Sts. Map 5 D2.
v Riverfront. @ 3, 5, 55. - =

In 1848, Baroness Micaela

Pontalba supervised the
building of these block-long
apartments flanking the up-
town and downtown sides of
Jackson Square. They were Interior of Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré
erected for over $300,000, and
at the time they were con- first theater was located in the Southern authors, is located
sidered the best and the largest Lower Pontalba Building, but in the building where
apartments of their kind. in 1922 the current site was Faulkner wrote his first novel,
At the age of 15, Micaela had bought and was used for the Soldier’s Pay, in 1925.
married the foppish aristocrat first American productions of
Celestin Pontalba, a distant Eugene O’Neill’s Beyond the
cousin, and moved to Paris. Horizon and Oscar Wilde’s Père Antoine Alley
There, her father-in-law tried Lady Windermere’s Fan. It is
to force her to sign over her a pretty building with a beguil- and St. Anthony’s
entire estate. When she re- ing courtyard and fountain. Garden 7
fused, he attempted to kill The structure is actually a
her, but succeeded only in 1962 reconstruction of a house Map 5 D2. v Riverfront.
shooting off two of her fingers. that was built here in 1796. @ 3, 5, 55.
She courageously separated Some of the original grillwork,
from her husband in 1848 by the brilliant ironworker This alley is named for one of
and returned to New Orleans. Marcellino Hernandez, was the city’s most beloved clergy-
The baroness, like her father reused, but little else, in an men, Father Antonio de Sedella
the philanthropist Don effort to create a modern (Père Antoine), who served as
Andrés Almonester y Rojas, theater space. pastor of St. Louis Cathedral
was a developer. With plans Today, the theater presents for 40 years. He was loved for
brought back from Paris, she an annual season of perfor- his compassionate ministry
proceeded to build apart- mances between September to the poor, whom he
ments like the ones she had and June, and functions as a assiduously fed and clothed.
seen in Paris. The architect headquarters during the The fenced garden, once a
of the apartment buildings Tennessee Williams New popular dueling ground,
is unknown. The design of Orleans Literary Festival and features a great sculpture
the initials A and P (for Writers’ Conference. of the Sacred Heart. In the
Almonester and Pontalba) early morning and evening
in the cast-iron railings of the scent of sweet olive
the galleries and balconies Pirate’s Alley 6 lingers in the air.
is attributed to one of the
baroness’s sons, an artist. Map 5 D2. @ 3, 5, 55.

Although it is named after the

Le Petit Théâtre du famous pirate brothers, Jean
Vieux Carré 5 and Pierre Lafitte (see p17),
there is no evidence here that
616 St. Peter St. Map 5 D2. this was once a pirates’ haunt
Tel 522-2081. @ 3, 5, 55. Box or a slave market. Today, the
Office # 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat. alley’s classic bohemian
¢ Sun, public hols. & atmosphere and open-air
cafés are what make it worth
This small theater was the seeking out.
brainchild of a group of actors The Faulkner House, a
called the Drawing Room bookstore where the shelves
Players, who came together in are lined with William
1916 under the management Faulkner first editions as well Faulkner House, a bookstore in
of Mrs. Oscar Nixon. Their as works by other major Pirate’s Alley

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 56 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,

and Presbytère 2
This complex of buildings was the most important
ensemble in the early colony. The Cabildo, designed
by Guilberto Guillemard, was built and financed in
1795 by Don Andrés Almonester y Rojas. It served as
a capitol for the legislative assembly of the Spanish
colonial government, and subsequently as the City Hall.
From 1853 to 1911 it housed the state Supreme Court.
The Casa Curial, or Presbytère, was built between 1794
and 1813, and served as a courthouse until 1911. Two
earlier churches on the site of the St. Louis Cathedral were
destroyed, the first by a hurricane in 1722, the second . Main Altar
by a fire in 1788. The current building was begun in The carved-wood Baroque
1789 and dedicated as a cathedral in 1794. It has been altars were constructed in
substantially modified since then. Ghent, Belgium, and brought
to the cathedral in pieces.

Cathedral Dome
A great mural of St. Louis announcing the
Seventh Crusade was painted above the altar.

Old Press
Printing presses were
widely used from
colonial times. This Cabildo
one is displayed on
the third floor of
the Cabildo.
. Sala Capitular
The Louisiana Purchase (see p17)
was signed in this room; this
is the pen used in the
official act.

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 U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 57

Ceiling Murals VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Painted by Alsatian artist
Erasme Humbrecht in Jackson Square. Map 5 D2. Tel
1872, the murals portray 525-9585 (St. Louis Cathedral);
different biblical stories. 568-6968 (Cabildo and Presby-
tère). v St. Charles Ave and
Canal streetcars. @ 3, 5, 55, 81.
# 9am–5pm daily (St. Louis
Cathedral); 9am–5pm Tue–Sun
(Cabildo and Presbytère). ¢ all
Stained-glass windows
major holidays (Cabildo and Presby-
with figures of
tère). & Cabildo and Presbytère.
Catholic saints adorn
5 St. Louis Cathedral, regular
the cathedral’s
services daily. 7 8 =
interior.
www.saintlouiscathedral.org

Mardi Gras Exhibits

Various Mardi
Gras objects and
memorabilia are
displayed
throughout the
building.

Presbytère

Presbytère Façade
The American emblems were
added to the pediment
in 1821, replacing the
royal arms of Spain.
St. Louis Cathedral

The clock bell, given

The steeples, the name “Victoire” by
the portico, and Père Antoine, was cast
the pilasters were in Paris. It has tolled
added in 1851. hourly since 1819.

STAR FEATURES . Mardi Gras

Museum
. Main Altar Audio-visual and
other exhibits
. Mardi Gras Museum about Mardi Gras
. Sala Capitular fill the rooms of the
Presbytère today.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

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 58 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Inside, the floors and doors

are made of cypress, and the
rooms feature elegant marble
fireplaces. The three-story
service quarters, located in
a separate building off the
parterre behind the house,
are also striking. They feature
slave quarters and a kitchen
containing a rare four-burner
wood-fired stove with a
beehive oven.

Historic
New Orleans
Collection 0
See pp60–61.

Master bedroom, the Hermann-Grima Historic House

Louisiana Supreme
Court Building q
Musée Conti to America (see p17). The
museum also features wax 400 Royal St. Map 4 C2. Tel 310-
Wax Museum 8 representations of political 2300. @ 3. v Riverfront.
figures such as the legendary # 8:30am–5pm Mon–Fri.
917 Conti St. Map 4 C2. Tel 525- governor of Louisiana, Huey ¢ public hols. www.lasc.org
2605. @ 3. # hours vary; call Long (1893–1935). Also
ahead of your visit. ¢ Sun, Thanks- present is four-time Governor When this massive granite
giving, Dec 25, Mardi Gras. 8 & Edwin Edwards, who was and marble structure was
7 ^ www.get-waxed.com found guilty of racketeering. built in 1908–1910, the
The tour ends with a series French Quarter was little
The major part of this of tableaus featuring stock more than a slum. Erecting
museum’s space is taken horror figures such as Dracula this splendid Beaux Arts
up with a series of 25 vivid and Frankenstein in dungeon- court building was an early
tableaus featuring lifelike like surroundings. Statues of exercise in urban renewal.
historical figures. The museum Andrew Jackson, the pirate Despite a few protests, an
presents the tempestuous Jean Lafitte, and Marie Laveau entire block of historic 18th-
story of New Orleans’ develop- also compete for your attention. and early 19th-century build-
ment, from its founding in ings was razed to make way
the 18th century to the lynch- Hermann-Grima for it. The Louisiana Supreme
ing of 11 Italians accused of Court occupied it from 1910
gunning down the police Historic House 9 to 1958. Never a favorite with
chief in 1891. One of the
most imaginatively conceived 820 St. Louis St. Map 4 C2.
scenes depicts Napoleon in Tel 525-5661. @ 3. # 10am–
his bathtub gesticulating madly 3:30pm Mon–Fri. ¢ public hols.
as he informs onlookers of & 8 7 www.hgghh.org
his decision to sell Louisiana
This gabled brick house
stands out from those around
it because it is one of the
few examples of American
Federal-style architecture in
the French Quarter. William
Brand built it in 1831 for
Samuel Hermann, a German-
Jewish merchant. Unfortu-
nately, he lost his fortune
in 1837 and had to sell the
house to Judge Felix Grima.
The house features a central
doorway with a fanlight and
marble steps; another window
Recreation of America’s purchase of with a fanlight graces the Façade of the Louisiana Supreme
Louisiana, Musée Conti second floor. Court Building

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

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 U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 59

instruments – as well as early

herbal remedies, many of
which were forerunners of
today’s drugs. These include a
bottle of salicin, an early form
of aspirin produced by Bayer
& Co. from black willow bark.
The museum also features a
splendid 1855 marble soda
fountain at which appealing
sodas were first concocted to
help the medicine go down.
The second floor features a
19th-century sick room, a fine
collection of eye glasses, plus
homeopathic remedies and an
impressive collection of 19th-
century dental instruments.
Napoleon House, surmounted by its landmark cupola The walled courtyard garden
is filled with medicinal herbs.
French Quarter preserva- the second, built in 1814, is a
tionists, the courthouse began three–story building with a
to decline and massive trees mezzanine. Together, they Jean Lafitte National
were planted on the site to were the home of Mayor
hide the dazzling white Nicholas Girod, who planned
Historical Park
marble exterior. It was to free Napoleon from impris- Visitor Center r
home to a string of state onment on St. Helena Island.
agencies, none of which With the help of Dominique 419 Decatur St. Map 4 C3. Tel 589-
took on the maintenance You and a pirate band (see 2133. @ 3, 5, 55, 81. # 9am–5pm
necessary for such p17), Girod intended daily. ¢ Dec 25, Mardi Gras. 8 &
an architecturally to bring Napoleon to 7 f www.nps.gov/jela
intricate structure. this refuge, but Napo-
In the 1990s the leon died before the This visitor center has some
state finally mission could be excellent displays on the geo-
launched a undertaken. graphy, history, and culture
renovation Marble detail from the Today, the walls of the Mississippi River Delta
program and since Supreme Court Building of the house are region. It also offers slide
2004 the building adorned with all shows and ranger-led walking
has once again served as kinds of Napoleonic decor tours of the French Quarter at
the home of the Louisiana and memorabilia. Both 9:30 every morning.
Supreme Court, the Louisiana buildings are attributed to The Jean Lafitte National
Law Library, and various Hyacinthe Laclotte, and the Historical Park comprises six
other state legal offices. balcony railings were crafted sites in all, including three in
There are plans to add a by William Malus. The cupola Cajun Country (see p152 and
legal museum, but visitors on the roof is a landmark. p157) and the Chalmette
may view some public Battlefield (see p88).
rooms and the Law Library.
New Orleans
Napoleon House w Pharmacy
Museum e
500 Chartres St. Map 5 D2.
Tel 524-9752. @ 3, 5, 55, 81. 514 Chartres St. Map 5 D2.
# 11:30am–5:30pm daily. Call Tel 565-8027. @ 3, 5, 55, 81.
ahead of your visit for night hours, # 10am–5pm Tue–Sat (to 2pm
since these vary. 7 0 - ) Tue, Thu). ¢ public hols. 8 & 7
www.napoleonhouse.com www.pharmacymuseum.org

One of the city’s most atmos- This museum is located on

pheric bars, Napoleon House the site of the first licensed
is famous for its Pimm’s Cup pharmacy in the United
and for a warm version of States, operated by Louis
the muffuletta (see p172), a Joseph Dufilho from 1823 to
traditional New Orleans deli 1855. The original display
sandwich. It occupies two cases and mahogany cabinets
buildings, one of which is a contain some gruesome-
two-story structure, built in looking early surgical tools – A 19th-century soda fountain at the
1798, facing St. Louis Street; saws, knives, and bloodletting Pharmacy Museum

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60 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Historic New Orleans Collection 0

This massive collection, born of one

couple’s interest in the Battle of New
Orleans, is housed in several 18th- and
19th-century structures. The Merieult
House (1792) features 10 galleries display-
ing historical artifacts, ranging from maps
and paintings to furnishings and decorative
objects. Free changing exhibitions are Williams Research Center
Spanish coat held in a gallery on the first floor. The This facility houses the largest
of arms Williams residence, at the rear of the collection of historical
courtyard, was the home of the collectors, General documents in the city.
and Mrs. L. Kemper Williams, who lived here from
Old courtyard
the 1940s to the 1960s. The Williams Research Center
at 410 Chartres Street offers changing exhibits in its
newly opened annex.
Williams
Residence

20th-Century Gallery
On display here are books
and artworks depicting the
city in the 1900s, such as The Counting
House, once used for
this Brulator Courtyard by banking activities, is
C. Bennette Moore. now a lecture hall

Plantation Gallery
Plantation life was
often captured in
art. This collage
portrays the hauling
of cotton.

STAR EXHIBITS
. Antebellum Gallery
. Spanish Colonial . Victorian Gallery
Gallery
This gallery features
elaborate furniture,
. Victorian Gallery and smaller objects,
such as this teapot.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

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U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 61

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
533 Royal St. Map 4 C2. Tel
523-4662. v St. Charles Ave.
@ 3, 55, 81, 82. # 9:30am–
4:30pm Tue–Sat. ¢ major hols.
& 7 8 = www.hnoc.org

Slave Funeral
One of a series of paintings by John Antrobus evokes life on
a Louisiana plantation in the Plantation Gallery.

. Spanish Colonial
Gallery
Portraits of residents during
French Colonial Gallery the Spanish colonial era are
French period items such as shown here.
this refectory table, used in
the Old Ursuline Convent,
are displayed here.
A dining room in
1792, this area
is now closed
to the
public

Louisiana Purchase Gallery

With its message of prosperity, this
image presents a rare welcome to the
Americans after the Purchase (see p17).

. Antebellum Gallery
The shop at On display in this gallery are items
the collection
related to the city prior to the Civil
War, including this painting of a fleet
Main entrance of frigates off the Louisiana coast.
Visitor
welcome center

The French Quarter, open for business at dusk

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 64 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Steamboat Natchez t

For a reminder of the old days of river

travel, visitors can take a two-hour cruise on
the Steamboat Natchez. In the 19th century,
steamboats traveled the length of the
Mississippi, taking between three and five
days to get from Louisville, Kentucky, to
New Orleans. The boatmen were notorious
Upper deck brawlers who went looking for women and
light
liquor at the end of a trip and established
New Orleans’ reputation as the “City of Sin.” In their hey-
day, from 1830 to 1860, some 30 steamboats lined up at
Steam Whistle
the levee. The steamboat era ended by the close of the
The genuine copper-
19th century as railroads and highways replaced them.
and-steel steam whistle
is a treasured antique.
Pilot House
A telegraph is used for
communication between the
Pilot House and the Chief
Engineer in the engine room.

Bridge
The copper bell
is inlaid with 250
silver dollars to pro-
duce a purer tone.

Capstan

Bowthruster

Magnolia Suite in
the lower deck, for
private events
Stage
Gigantic ramps were used
to board, load, and off-
load the steamboat.

STAR FEATURES
. Dining Room
. Engine Room
. Steam Calliope

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp162–3 and pp176–7

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 U P P E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R 65

. Dining VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Room
Woldenberg Riverfront park wharf.
A casual Map 5 D2. Tel 586-8777. v
buffet dinner Riverfront. @ 45, 87. # Harbor
is served on the jazz cruises 11am and 2pm daily,
second deck, dinner jazz cruise 7pm daily.
featuring live &670)=
jazz music by www.steamboatnatchez.com
the Dukes of
Dixieland.

Lifesavers
are distributed
around the ship. . Steam Calliope
This 32-note steam calliope was custom-
Gift shop
crafted and modeled after the “Gilded
Age” craft of the 1800s.

The Hurricane
Deck features
live jazz music.

. Engine
Room
These powerful
steam engines
were built for
the US Steel
Corporation’s
sternwheeler Paddlewheel
Clairton in Twenty-five tons of white oak propel
1925. the steamboat along the river.

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N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 67

LOWER FRENCH QUAR TER,

MARIGNY, AND TREME

E xtending from St. Ann Street to

Esplanade Avenue, this is the
more residential part of the
French Quarter. Within this area
the busiest sidewalks are those
the Marigny Plantation was
subdivided, and the area was
settled. Today, Marigny is a
lively place with restaurants,
clubs, and Creole cottages. The
around the French Market, where area just west of the French
stalls display hot sauces, strings of Quarter is Treme, which was
garlic and peppers, and other Creole settled largely by free people of
and Cajun specialties. The surround- color. This area was moderately
ing streets are lined with hand- affected by Hurricane Katrina: The
some Creole-style cottages. Louis Armstrong Old US Mint’s roof was torn off
Esplanade Avenue divides the statue by high winds, and the Mahalia
French Quarter and Marigny. Soon Jackson Theater of the Performing
after the Louisiana Purchase (see p17), Arts suffered flood damage.

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop i Flea Market 2
Beauregard-Keyes House 6 Lalaurie House 9 French Market 3
Gallier House Museum 8 Latrobe House 0
Churches
Madame John’s Legacy t Old Ursuline Convent 5
Our Lady of Guadalupe f
New Orleans Jazz National Soniat House 7
Historical Park 4 Theaters
Landmarks
Old US Mint pp74–5 1 Mahalia Jackson Theater of
Café du Monde r
the Performing Arts d
Parks and Gardens Central Grocery e
-
"
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"
3 GETTING THERE
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See pp68–9
v Streetcar stop 0 meters 300

n Tourist information 0 yards 300

Lacy, New Orleans ironwork, Royal Street

USNO_066-067_intro2.indd 67 15/5/08
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68 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Lower French Quarter

The area surrounding the French Market is loaded
with atmosphere. It has long been a place for
meeting and mixing. In the city’s early days,
Native Americans came to this area to sell wild
herbs, and today the district still offers a range
of exotic goods. French Market Place, formerly
Gallatin Street, was once the most notorious street
in the Quarter, populated by prostitutes, rowdies,
criminals (like the Black Hand Gang), and visiting
sailors, who ventured here at their peril. It was
lined with so many brothels and bars that it was
dubbed “Louisiana’s Barbary Coast.” Today, it still
has plenty of bars, and some of the oldest and Gallier House Museum
most important buildings in the French Quarter. Set in a former residence, this
is an informative showcase
Soniat House of 19th-century life 8
This residence has
been restored to its
original splendor,
and serves as a
lovely small hotel
(see p164) 7

T
EE
R
ST
ES
R
T
R
A
H
Beauregard-Keyes C
House, former home of GO
V.
Frances Parkinson Keyes, NI
CH
is now a museum 6 OL
LS
ST

. Old Ursuline
Convent
Designed in
1745, and built
in 1752, this is the
oldest building in the
Mississippi Valley 5

. Farmers’ Market
at the French Market
Containing a farmers’
market full of fresh
produce, the French KEY
Market has been a Suggested route
New Orleans institu-
tion since 1791 3
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

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L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y , A N D T R E M E 69

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Gauche Villa LOCATOR MAP

Built in 1856, this house is notable for See Street Finder maps 4 and 5
its beautiful cast-iron balcony. Architect
James Freret designed the house q Esplanade
Avenue
This beautiful
0 meters 30 avenue was the
aristocratic resi-
0 yards 30
dential street of the
Creole community
in the 19th century.
It marks the divi-
sion between the
French Quarter
and the Faubourg
Marigny w

T
EE
R ES
ST PL
R AN
U AD
T
A E
EC AV
D EN
UE

BA
RR
A
CK
S
ST

. Old US Mint
Coins were minted here until
1909. Today the building is
home to the Jazz Museum 1

Flea Market
at the French STAR FEATURES
Market
. French Market
Handcrafts,
souvenirs, and . Old Ursuline
curiosities can Convent
be found at
this popular . Old US Mint
flea market 2

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70 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Old US Mint 1
See pp74–5.

Flea Market 2
French Market, North Peters St,
between Gov. Nicholls and Barracks
Sts. Map 5 E1. v Riverfront. @ 3,
55. # 9am–7pm daily. 7 = -
0 www.frenchmarket.org

At stalls and tables inside and

outside the French Market
buildings, all kinds of items Typical French Market stand displaying fresh garlic and vegetables
can be bought, from jewelry
and pottery to African arts daily use, it usually denotes
and crafts. The flea market the open-air markets starting
Old Ursuline
stands on the site of the noto- at St. Philips Street. At the Convent 5
rious neighborhood once called Farmers’ Market (starting at
the “port of missing men,” Ursulines St) you can still find 1100 Chartres St. Map 5 D1. Tel 529-
because so many men who fresh produce, but most of the 3040. v Riverfront. @ 3, 55.
visited the local bars and broth- space is now given over to the # 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 11am–4pm
els were shanghaied or killed. Flea Market. Both markets were Sat, Sun. (Guided tours only.) & 8
renovated in 2007 and 2008.
Dating from 1752, this is
the oldest building in the
New Orleans Jazz Mississippi Valley. With its
steep-pitched roof punctuated
National Historical by a row of dormers and tall
Park 4 chimneys, it is typically
French Colonial.
916 N Peters St. Map 5 D1. Tel 589- In the 1820s, when the nuns
4841. v Riverfront. @ 3, 5, 82. # departed to new quarters, the
9am–5pm Tue–Sat. ¢ Jan 1, Thanks- convent became the first
giving, Dec 24. 8 www.nps.gov/jazz official residence for the
bishops and archbishops of
A new, large complex in New Orleans, and the home
Armstrong Park, devoted to the of the archdiocesan archives.
history and development of Later, the convent became
Colorful wares for sale at New jazz, is due to open by 2010. part of a parish complex and
Orleans’ Flea Market Until then, the temporary the old nuns’ kitchen and
visitors’ center offers seminars, laundry became (as it remains
French Market 3 lectures, and free afternoon today) the rectory for Our
jazz concerts. There is also a Lady of Victory Church.
North Peters St to Barracks St. Map permanent collection of photo- The current chapel, conse-
5 E1. v Riverfront. @ 3, 5, 48. graphs charting the history of crated in 1845, was originally
# 9am–7pm daily. = - 0 ) jazz, as well as guided walks known as St. Mary’s, but today
to nearby sites of interest. it is called Our Lady of Victory.
Despite its name, this spot
has been a gathering place for
many different ethnic groups.
Originally, Native Americans
came here to sell their baskets,
beads, and filé (ground sassa-
fras leaves used in gumbo).
Later, they were joined by
African-American women sell-
ing various wares including
calas (hot rice cakes). German
farmers from upriver sold agri-
cultural produce, and Italians
operated most of the stalls in
the late 1800s. Today, the
French Market officially covers
the five blocks between St. Ann
and Barracks streets, but in Main façade, Old Ursuline Convent

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

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L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 71

name is still associated with

the building.
Novelist Frances Parkinson
Keyes, who wintered and
wrote many of her 51 novels
here, including Dinner at
Antoine’s, restored the
property. Today, many of her
personal possessions are on
display, including all of her
novels, plus a collection of
dolls from all over the world.
The rooms are arranged
around an attractive court-
yard, which contains a fountain
that Mrs. Keyes brought from
Vermont, her home state.

Soniat House 7
1133 Chartres St. Map 5 D1.
Tel 522-0570. v Riverfront.
@ 3, 55. www.soniathouse.com
See Where to Stay, p164.

This historic residence was

built in 1829 as a townhouse
for wealthy sugar planter
Joseph Soniat Dufossat and
his family. Joseph was the
second son of Chevalier Guy
Saunhac du Fossat, who had
been sent to Louisiana by
Louis XV of France in 1751
to help the fight against the
Native Americans.
The house combines Creole
Beautiful ironwork adorning the Soniat House style – the flagstone carriage-
way, a courtyard, an external
Inside, visitors can admire the chess player Paul Morphy spiral staircase, and lacy iron
splendid pine and cypress who was born here in 1837, galleries – with Greek Revival
ceiling, two fine Bavarian when it was the residence detail in the mantels and
stained-glass windows, and a of his grandfather, Joseph Le moldings. In the 1940s, the
window depicting the Battle Carpentier. General P. G. T. Nathaniel Felton family
of New Orleans (see p17) Beauregard lived here briefly restored it completely. Today
beneath an image of Our for 18 months in 1866–7, it is a small hotel, exquisitely
Lady of Prompt Succor. and because he was such furnished with authentic
A formal French garden a famous Civil War hero his antiques and decoration.
containing a handsome iron
gazebo lies in front of the
building. It is accessed via
the porter’s lodge.

Beauregard-Keyes
House 6
1113 Chartres St. Map 5 D1. Tel 523-
7257. v Riverfront. @ 3, 55. #
10am–3pm Mon–Sat. & 8 hourly.

Twin staircases lead up to

this Federal-style townhouse,
designed by François Corre-
jolles in 1826. It is associated
with several famous New
Orleanians, including master Grand entrance to the Beauregard-Keyes House

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 72 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Gallier House
Museum 8
1132 Royal St. Map 5 D1. Tel 525-
5661. @ 3, 5, 55, 81. # 10am–
3:30pm Mon–Fri. ¢ public hols.
& 8 www.hgghh.org

In 1857, James Gallier, Jr.

designed this attractive
residence, which combines
architectural elements of the
Creole, with great height and
verticality, and the American
townhouse, with Federal-style
windows and doorways (see
pp34–5). The interior incorpo-
rated many innovations of
its time, including an ingen-
ious hot-water and ventilation
system. The kitchen was also
inside the house, which was
unusual for the period
because of the danger of fire.
On the exterior, the rosebud
design of the railings is striking.
Inside, visitors can view the Lalaurie House, associated with ghostly visions
“isolation room,” a sparsely
furnished room designed for Lalaurie House 9 outrage, and a mob arrived
the sick. Many households intent on destroying the place.
had such a room, which was 1140 Royal St. Map 5 D1. During the melee, Madame
not surprising in a city that @ 3, 5, 55. ¢ to the public. Lalaurie and her husband
experienced 23 yellow fever escaped unharmed. After she
epidemics between 1718 Residents of the French died in 1842, it is believed
and 1860. Quarter still hurry past this that her body was secretly
James Gallier, Jr. was the otherwise lovely building returned from Paris and was
son of the city’s renowned because of its grim buried in St. Louis Ceme-
architect James Gallier, Sr., associations and tery #1 (see p82) or #2
who built Gallier Hall (see reputation for ghosts. (see p83). During the
p95). Gallier Hall served as It was built in 1832 Civil War (see pp18–
the City Hall until the 1950s. for a distinguished 19) the house served
James Gallier, Jr. also designed couple, Dr. Leonard as a Union headquar-
the portico of the Louisiana Louis Nicolas Lalaurie ters; later it was used
State Bank building (see p48). and his wife, Del- variously as a school,
phine, who were conservatory of music,
well known for and gaming house.
their fashionable A private residence
and lavish parties. now, some locals still
At these social swear that the house
events, though, guests Front door at is haunted, that a
could not help but Lalaurie House slave girl can be seen
notice the condition leaping to her death,
of the servants, who were and that the clanking of
painfully thin and seemed to chains can be heard.
be terrified of their mistress.
The gossip about how she
treated her slaves was con- Latrobe House 0
firmed on April 10, 1834,
when a fire broke out at the 721 Governor Nicholls St.
residence. When neighbors Map 5 D1. @ 3, 5, 55.
rushed in to extinguish the ¢ to the public.
fire and save the contents,
they found seven half-starved When Benjamin Henry Latrobe
and manacled slaves, plus a designed this building in 1814,
number of grim-looking torture with its sturdy Doric columns,
Gallier House, an innovative 19th- instruments. A story in the he helped launch the mania
century residence local press further fueled the in New Orleans for Greek
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

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 L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 73

Revival-style architecture.
Known as the first professional
architect in the US, Benjamin
Henry Latrobe (1764–1820)
was born in England, and
after working as a professional
architect for several years in
Europe he came to the United
States in 1796. Latrobe was
highly influential, and built a
variety of private residences
and public buildings, the lat-
ter ranging from waterworks
to cathedrals. He is largely
responsible for the interior of
the US Capitol Building, and
for the East Portico of the
White House. He died in New Gauche Villa, with its superb original ironwork
Orleans of yellow fever while
supervising the building of a surrounded by grapevines tree-lined 3-mile (2-km)-long
new waterworks. adorns the balcony, cast in street cut through what was
Saarbrucken, Germany, and the most aristocratic Creole
shipped to New Orleans. neighborhood of impressive
Gauche Villa q Rows of anthema and other villas and townhouses. The
Greek floral motifs decorate fashionable elite paraded
704 Esplanade Ave at Royal. the edge of the roof and the in their carriages past the
Map 5 D1. @ 3. v Riverfront. fence posts. Architect James many elegant residences,
¢ to the public. Freret designed the house some of which have survived
for crockery merchant John to this day.
The beautiful ironwork of Gauche in 1856. Many of these homes were
this residence is uniquely designed by the city’s fore-
integral to the villa’s overall most architects, including
design, which accounts for Esplanade Henry Howard, James Gallier,
the building’s harmonious Avenue w Sr., and William and James
appearance. Little of the cast Freret. Their styles range from
iron-work in New Orleans Maps 2 B2 C2–3 and 3 D3/E4. Greek Revival to Italianate
was constructed at the same @ 3, 46, 48. and Queen Anne. Most are
time as the building – mostly still private residences, but
it was added as an after- Today, Esplanade Avenue some have been converted
thought. Numerous patterns acts as the dividing line into handsome bed-and-
are used on the fence, the between the French Quarter breakfasts. A stroll along this
gate, the balconies, and the and Faubourg Marigny, and street will reveal over 190
parapet, casting lovely shad- extends from the Mississippi homes that were built before
ows on the stucco exterior on to Bayou St. John. As early 1900. Every block contains
sun-filled days. A bacchant as the 1830s, this broad, numerous architectural gems.

Elegant residences lining Esplanade Avenue

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74 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Old US Mint 1

Fort St. Charles was the original occupant of this

site; it was here that Andrew Jackson reviewed
his troops before the Battle of New Orleans
(see p17). The Greek Revival building seen
today, was built in 1835 by William Strick-
land, and functioned as a mint until 1909. In
1931, it was converted into a federal prison; later,
it was used by the Coast Guard. In the late
Trombone 1970s it became a museum to house the New . History of the Old US
slide detail Orleans Jazz Collection, which tells the story Mint Exhibition
of jazz through paintings, recordings, instru- A selection of the gold and
ments, and photographs. The building is being restored silver coins formerly minted
following Hurricane Katrina, so some of the exhibits here are displayed in this
may be in different rooms or not displayed at all. glittering exhibit.

Early Jazz
Vintage photographs
depict the early bands
with their jug and tin
drums, washboards,
kazoos, and other
homemade
instruments.

Ironwork
The balconies and
railings display some Women in
of the city’s beautiful Jazz exhibit
wrought iron.

Ebony Clarinet
George Lewis, who was most popular during the
1950s and 1960s, played this clarinet.

. New Orleans Jazz Collection

Original musical instruments, vintage
photographs, and historic documents show the
evolution from Dixieland to modern jazz music.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

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L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 75

Cornet VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Louis
400 Esplanade Ave. Map 5 E1.
Armstrong Tel (504) 568-6968. v River-
learned to front. @ 3, 55. # 9am–5pm
play jazz on Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun. ¢
this horn. public hols. & 7 8 = http://
lsm.crt.state.la.us/mintex.htm

Jazz murals painted

by Tony Green show
scenes of Storyville.
Conference
room

New Orleans-style Band

This mural with real musical
instruments shows the traditional
Louisiana jazz line-up, formed by cornet,
State Museum clarinet, trombone, drums, string
Archive bass, and banjo.

Daniel Dana
fashioned this
spear-pointed
fence in the 1850s.
Antique
Coin Store

Jazz Origins
A selection of photographs
of early jazz bands and
musicians, as well as a
steamboat scale model,
are displayed at the Jazz
Collection entrance.

STAR EXHIBITS
. History of the Old US
Mint Exhibition
Main Façade
Visitors enter the Old US Mint through a grand . New Orleans Jazz
Neo-Classical portico, which has been carefully Collection
restored along with the rest of the building.

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 76 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Central Grocery e
923 Decatur. Map 5 D2. Tel 523-
1620. @ 3, 5, 55. v Riverfront.
# 8am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
9am–5:30pm Sun. = 0

This historic store, one of the

few Italian delis left in the
city, sells all kinds of Italian
food, from pasta, provolone,
and mozzarella, to sausages,
parmesan, and olive oil. In
the 1890s many Italians began
to move to the French Quarter,
and became major stallholders
at the nearby French Market
(see p68). Today, customers
gather at the counters at Taking a break at Café du Monde, with beignets and coffee
the back of the store to
order another specialty, the or just people-watch. During piers which rise some 9 ft (3m)
muffuletta (see p172), which the mid-19th century there off the ground. A veranda,
is a sizable sandwich filled were as many as 500 similar accessible via French windows
with deli meats and cheeses. coffeehouses in the French from all the rooms, extends
The most vital ingredient, Quarter. Coffee was one of around the first floor.
however, is the olive salad – New Orleans’ most important The name Madame John’s
a blend of olives, celery, commodities, and the coffee Legacy refers to George
carrots, cauliflower, and trade helped the economy Washington Cable’s famous
capers, which can also be recover after the Civil War, story Tite Poulette (1873), in
purchased at the store. when New Orleans vied with which the hero leaves a resi-
New York City to control dence as a legacy to his quad-
coffee imports. During the roon mistress, who sells the
Civil War, locals drank coffee building, deposits the cash in
flavored with peanuts and a bank, and loses it all when
pecan shells, to make the bank fails. Cable used this
the coffee supply last. residence as a model of the
home in his story. In the late
Madame John’s 19th century, the house was
converted into rental apart-
Legacy t ments, which were occupied
by a mixture of immigrants.
632 Dumaine St. Map 5 D2. Today, exhibits in the first-
Tel 568-6968. @ 3, 5, 55. floor galleries relate the
v Riverfront. # 9am–5pm history of the house and its
Tue–Sun. ¢ public hols. & 8 many owner-residents. Among
Olive salad and other deli http://lsm.crt.state.la.us them were Jean Pascal, a
specialties at the Central Grocery Provençal sea captain who
Dating from 1788, this is the built the original house on
Café du Monde r oldest surviving residence in this site before being killed
the Mississippi Valley. It is a by Natchez Indians in 1729;
800 Decatur. Map 5 D2. typical Creole plantation- pirate-admiral René Beluche,
Tel 525-4544. @ 3, 5, 55. style house, suppor- who was born
v Riverfront. # 24 hours daily. ted on brick here and
¢ Dec 24 and 25. 7 - =
www.cafedumonde.com

Everyone who visits New

Orleans stops here for a plate
of sugar-dusted beignets
(square French donuts)
accompanied by café au
lait or the famous chicory-
flavored version, iced coffee
or a glass of milk. This 100-
year old coffeehouse is perfect
for relaxing at a table under
the arcade and listening to
the street musicians entertain, Madame John’s Legacy, the oldest residence in the Mississippi Valley

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

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 L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 77

later served in the Venezuelan

Revolutionary Navy; and the
Segher family, whose house-
hold inventory featured four
slaves, including a mulatto,
valued at $2,500, and his
daughter, who was valued at
only $1,200, because she had
been promised her freedom
at age 30. The second-floor
galleries are now used for
contemporary art exhibitions.

Cornstalk Fence y
915 Royal St. Map 5 D2. @ 3, 5, 55.
View of Artillery Park and Moonwalk on the Mississippi River
This handsome cast-iron
landmark fence is one of two Washington Maurice “Moon” Landrieu,
remaining in the city (see who approved the
p106). It was erected around Artillery Park and construction of flood walls
1850, when cast iron began Moonwalk u that made the riverfront area
replacing wrought iron (see accessible to the public.
pp38–9). The cornstalks are Decatur Street (between St. Ann The park was built in 1976
entwined with morning and St. Peter sts). Map 5 D2. and was once used as a
glories, and each element is @ 3, 5, 55. v Riverfront. military training ground, but
painted in its natural color – today the amphitheater and
yellow for the ears of corn, Washington Artillery Park Moonwalk are favored by
green for the stalks, and blue faces Jackson Square from street performers. Crowds
for the morning glories. A across Decatur Street. Inside often gather to witness
butterfly decorates the central the park is an austere concrete impromptu performances
portion of the gate, and a amphitheater with a central by solo musicians, including
spray of holly adorns the staircase leading to the guitarists, clarinettists,
bottom. It was cast by the Moonwalk. This community saxophonists, trombonists,
prestigious Philadelphia boardwalk was named after and steel drummers, who play
company, Wood & Perot. former New Orleans Mayor with an open music case at
their feet to collect donations.
Standing on the Moonwalk,
the audience can enjoy a
welcome break from the
city’s humidity, as a constant
breeze along the waterfront
makes temperatures feel
several degrees cooler than
in the rest of the city. It also
provides an excellent vantage
point from which to view
the river, Jackson Square,
and the surrounding area.
Stone steps lead right down
from the boardwalk to the
Mississippi River where you
can sit and dangle your feet
in the whiskey-colored water,
or watch the steamboats,
ocean-going barges, and
other river traffic float past.
Do not attempt to stand in
the river, however, as the
current is deceptively rapid
and powerful.
If you do want to get closer
to the water, there are plenty
of river cruises – from one-
hour sight-seeing trips to
romantic night-time dinner
Cast-iron Cornstalk Fence and hotel cruises (see p217).

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AM
 78 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Washington
Square o
Frenchman between Royal and
Dauphine. Map 5 E1. # 9am–6pm
daily. @ 3, 5, 55. 7

Washington Square, one of

the earliest parks to be laid
out in New Orleans, was
created in 1808. It lies at
the center of the Faubourg
Marigny, today the most
“bohemian” part of the city and
home to most of the city’s gay
community. The park is a
good place to throw a frisbee
and for ball games, or just to
relax on the vast green areas
it offers. There are also open-
Tree-shaded passage in Washington Square air concerts here in summer,
a wine festival in September
which stood on the site of and carroling in December.
Lafitte’s Blacksmith today’s Omni Royal Orleans
Shop i (see p162) at Royal and St.
Louis streets. They earned
941 Bourbon St. Map 5 D1. local gratitude by warning
Tel 523-0066. @ 3, 55, 89. the Americans of the
# 11:30am–4am daily. 7 = planned British attack on
-≤0f New Orleans, and with their
band they fought bravely in Water lily at the
This is one of the finest bars the ensuing battle (see p17). American Aquatic Gardens
in the French Quarter. It is an Just up Bourbon Street from
example of the brick between Lafitte’s stands another bar,
posts (see p34) French-style called Lafitte’s in Exile. It is American Aquatic
building, and was constructed so called because, until the Gardens p
sometime before 1772, early 1950s, gays frequented
although the precise date is the old Lafitte’s; when the 621 Elysian Fields. Map 5 E1. Tel
unknown. Inside, several bar changed hands, its new 944-0410. @ 3, 5, 55. # 9am–
small fireplaces warm the owner refused to renew the 4pm daily. ¢ major holidays. =
place on cool evenings, and lease, and in 1953 its gay www.americanaquaticgardens.com
there is also a small patio patrons were driven into
containing a sculpture of exile. They established This delightful “store,” which
Adam and Eve embracing on their new quarters just up occupies half a city block, is
a bed of ivy. The sculpture the street at Lafitte’s in Exile. the largest – and widely con-
was created by an artist as It has remained a popular sidered the best – aquatic plant
payment for his bar bill. alternative ever since. nursery and garden supply
Despite its name, there is no
proof that the pirate brothers,
Jean and Pierre Lafitte, oper-
ated a smithy here as a front
for their smuggling activities.
Very little documentation of
their lives exists, so that many
myths have been woven
around these two legendary
figures. They operated as
smugglers and were prominent
slave traffickers, selling “black
ivory” to all of the important
slave-holding families in
Louisiana, particularly after
1808 when the importation of
slaves into the United States
was forbidden. The auctions
were conducted in the rotunda
of the St. Louis Hotel (1836), The historic Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

USNO_078-079 A2 Cat4.indd 78 15/5/08 12:58:15

12:57:57 PM
 L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 79

Main entrance to Armstrong Park

store in the United States. It is in a quartet until he was sent audiences until his death in
worth visiting for its glorious to the Colored Waifs’ Home 1971. The park features an arti-
display of aquatic and exotic after firing a pistol in public. ficial lake, City Auditorium, the
plants in the outdoor gardens, It was there that he learned Mahalia Jackson Theater of
which include an Asian gar- to play the trumpet, and soon the Performing Arts (see p80),
den complete with decorative he was talented enough to and Congo Square (see p80),
Buddhas and Oriental lanterns. challenge such leading and has a bust of Sidney
The water gardens contain players as Joe “King” Oliver Bechet, the great clarinetist
exquisite water lilies, and and Freddie Keppard. He left and soprano saxophone player.
there are also spectacular New Orleans in 1922 to join Bechet was born in New
sculpted fountains, handsome King Oliver in Chicago, and Orleans in 1897, but spent
statuary, attractive pond went on to build an interna- most of his life performing in
designs, and ornamental wall tional career, entertaining London, Paris, and New York.
planters. The gardens were
quite badly damaged by
Hurricane Katrina, but they WOMEN IN JAZZ
have now been repaired. Jazz was not solely a male preserve;
many noted female singers and
musicians also made their names
Armstrong Park a in New Orleans. Blanche Thomas
declined the life of endless one-
Rampart St between St. Peter St night stands and stayed in the city
and St. Ann St. Map 4 C1. singing the blues with such artists
@ 5, 48, 88, 89. f as Al Hirt and Pete Fountain. She
could be heard in the bars along
Named for the legendary Bourbon Street in the early 1970s,
trumpeter Louis “Satchmo” where her command of traditional
Armstrong (see pp20–21), this jazz and big blues voice made her
spacious park stands on Blanche Thomas
a particular favorite. Singer Louise
hallowed jazz ground. It “Blue Lu” Barker is said to have
occupies what used to be influenced both Billie Holiday and Eartha Kitt. Lizzie Miles
a section of Storyville (see dazzled the crowds in the 1920s, and Esther Bigeou was
p81), the legal red-light dis- dubbed the “Creole songbird” in the 1930s. There were also
trict that nurtured so many some prominent female instrumentalists in the early jazz
of the early jazz artists. bands – pianists like Sweet Emma Barrett and Lil Hardin.
Armstrong’s statue stands The most famous female jazz musicians to emerge from
in the park, and his name is New Orleans were the Boswell Sisters (see p21), a trio
emblazoned on the arch at of middle-class white girls who learned jazz from their
St. Ann Street. He was born black maids. Their close harmonies and up-tempo tunes
in New Orleans on August 4, propelled them out of New Orleans and on to a national
1901, and as a boy he spent weekly radio program in the 1930s, and then into movies.
his time singing on the streets

USNO_078-079 A2 Cat4.indd 79 15/5/08 12:58:16

12:58:00 PM
 80 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Congo Square s
N Rampart St, between St. Peter St
and St. Philip St. Map 4 C1.
@ 5, 48, 88, 89. 7

Under the Code Noir (an edict

concerning the treatment of
slaves), slaveholders were
forbidden to work slaves on
Sunday in order to encourage
them to attend church and
become good Roman Catho-
lics. Such minimal amounts of
freedom allowed the blacks of
New Orleans to retain more
of their African
heritage than
those in other
parts of the
South. On
Sunday after-
noons, during the Congo Square, home of the calinda and bamboula dances
18th and early
19th century, Mahalia Jackson and opened first a beauty
slaves and free shop, then a flower store.
people of color Theater of the Despite her strict upbringing,
Armstrong’s would gather in Performing Arts d she fell in love with the syn-
statue Congo Square copated rhythms of blues but
(also known as Armstrong Park, Rampart St between never sang the more bawdy
Place des Nègres), part of St. Peter St and St. Ann St. Map 4 songs in its repertoire. Jackson
Armstrong Park (see p79), to C1. Tel 218-0150. @ 48, 46, 52, was discovered in the 1930s
speak in their native African 57. ¢ for renovation. & 7 and made her first recording
tongues. They would sing and in 1934. Her career took her
dance, and perform the calin- Named for the celebrated gos- to Carnegie Hall, the Newport
da, an African line dance, and pel singer Mahalia Jackson Jazz Festival, and other major
the bamboula. These dances (1911–72), this theater is used music venues. Jackson was
were one of the chief origins by local and visiting dance, also active in the civil rights
of jazz, and Congo Square is music, and theater companies. movement and was a support-
thus remembered as one of A New Orleans native, Jack- er of Martin Luther King, Jr.
the birthplaces of jazz music. son began her career singing The theater suffered flood
The infamous Marie Laveau in the local church, where her damage in the aftermath of
(see p83) is said to have per- father was a pastor. At the age Hurricane Katrina. It is due
formed voodoo rituals here. of 16 she moved to Chicago to reopen in early 2009.

The Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

USNO_080-081 A2 Cat5.Indd 80 15/5/08 1:01:34

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 L O W E R F R E N C H Q U A R T E R , M A R I G N Y, A N D T R E M E 81

St. Anthony’s Chapel was Orleanians visit the altar to

built on the outskirts of the pray for help when they
French Quarter in 1826, when need something in a hurry.
funerals were no longer being St. Expedite is also associated
held in St. Louis Cathedral, for with voodoo (see p83), which
fear of spreading yellow fever is why the church is called
(see p18). It was originally the “voodoo church.”
known as “Mortuary Chapel” Guadalupe is the official
because all the bodies were place of worship for the
taken directly from the chapel police and fire departments,
to St. Louis Cemetery #1 (see whose altar stands to the
p82), via the back entrance. right of the main altar.
It displays several brilliantly
colored stained-glass win-
dows, representing different
saints honored by devoted
New Orleanians.
The most visited altar is ded-
icated to St. Jude, the “patron
saint of hopeless causes,” but
Stained-glass window, a more interesting one stands
Our Lady of Guadalupe to the left of the exit; this is
dedicated to New Orleans’
Our Lady of very own St. Expedite, whose
name is not in any official
Guadalupe f dictionary of saints. According
to legend, a crate marked with
411 N. Rampart St. Map 4 B2. the word “Spedito!” (meaning
Tel 525-1551. @ 48, 46, 52, 57. “rush”) arrived in the chapel
# 7am–6pm daily. 7 one day. The statue inside it
was removed and mounted
Renamed Our Lady of Guada- on the wall, and its name was
lupe in 1875, when it served confused with the word on
an Italian congregation, the box. To this day, New Our Lady of Guadalupe

STORYVILLE
From 1897 to 1917 the 38 blocks roughly legislator and political boss Tom Anderson,
bounded by Iberville, Basin, Robertson, and the informal “Mayor” of Storyville. Many of
St. Louis streets were set aside as a legal red- the brothels were quite luxurious, furnished
light district (see p22). Saloons and high-class with velvet drapes, gilt-framed paintings,
brothels lined Basin Street, cheap bawdy leopard-skin fabrics, and plenty of ormolu. At
houses clustered along Dauphine, Burgundy, No. 317 Basin Street, Countess Willie Piazza
St. Louis, Conti, and Bienville streets, while held court. She regularly employed pianist
the poorest huts, called cribs, furnished with Jelly Roll Morton, who played behind a
bed, table, and chair, were found along screen, as did most musicians at these estab-
Rampart and Iberville streets. Names and lishments, so they were not able to observe
addresses of 700 prostitutes were listed in the the patrons who frequented the brothels. The
Blue Book, which was available at bars like district was officially closed in 1917 by the
the Annex, which was operated by state Navy Department (see p22).

Mahogany Hall in Basin Street, one of Storyville’s notorious bordellos

USNO_080-081 A2 Cat5.Indd 81 15/5/08 1:01:35

1:01:17 PM
 82 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

mostly with victims brick vault. Boré contributed

of yellow fever. much to the city’s prosperity
Today, the narrow as he was the first to granu-
alleyways are full of late sugar on a commercial
mausoleums, many scale in 1796. Boré’s grand-
in advanced stages son, the historian Charles
of decay. It is divid- Gayarré, is also buried here,
ed into a larger as is Paul Morphy (1837–84),
Catholic section and the genius chess player who
a smaller Protestant was a world champion at
section. There are age 13 but who later went
numerous legendary mad. Most famous of all is
local figures buried probably Marie Laveau (see
here: Homer Adolph box, opposite), known as the
Plessy (1862–1925), voodoo queen. Crowds visit
who challenged the her tomb (though some
segregation laws in believe it is not the correct
the 1890s (see p19); one) to leave unusual voodoo
Bernard de Marigny “gifts” or mark it with X’s,
(1788–1871), who which symbolizes a request
inherited $7 million that she grant a particular
Poignant statue atop an above-ground tomb at age 15 and squan- wish. A more recent figure is
at St. Louis Cemetery #1 dered it playing Ernest “Dutch” Morial (1929–
craps (dice), the 1989), the first black mayor
St. Louis game he introduced to the and the father of another
United States (see p102). former mayor, Marc
Cemetery #1 g Daniel Clark (1766–1813), Morial. The largest tomb
the wealthy Irish mer- belongs to the Société
Basin St between St. Louis and Conti. chant who challenged Française de Bien-
Map 4 B2. Tel 482-5065. @ 48, Governor Claiborne faisance, which
46, 52, 57. # 8:30am–4pm Mon– (see p17) to a duel and contains 70 vaults.
Sat, 8:30am–3pm Sun. 7 8 wounded him in the leg, The tallest monu-
lies here, along with his ment, sculpted by
This cemetery opened in 1789 daughter Myra Clark Pietro Gualdi in 1857 for
and is the oldest in the city. Gaines (1803–85). $40,000, belongs to the
Because of its age, it is one She fought for 65 Italian Society. It was
of the most fascinating to years to secure her the background in the
visit. However, this cemetery father’s estate, in a A beseeching angel psychedelic scenes in
and its neighbor, St. Louis case that generated the film Easy Rider. A
Cemetery #2, should not be 8,000 pages of court docu- plaque memorializes Benjamin
visited alone; both are ideal ments. Jean Etienne Boré Henry Latrobe (see p72), the
places for muggers and pick- (1741–1820), the plantation architect who came to New
pockets to operate. By 1829 owner who was the colony’s Orleans to build a waterworks
St. Louis #1 was already filled, first mayor, is buried in a low and died in 1820 of yellow
fever (see p18). No
one knows where
his remains are.
Many bodies were
moved from the St.
Louis Cemetery #1
in 1823 to Lafayette
Cemetery (see p102)
and from there to
Metairie Cemetery
(see p127) in the
1950s. Somehow,
Latrobe’s body got
lost in the shuffle.
Recommended
tours (see p198) are
given by the Save
our Cemeteries
organization, and
by New Orleans
Tours, Inc. Both
provide plenty
of excellent local
Ornate family mausoleums in St. Louis Cemetery #1 information.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp163–4 and pp177–9

USNO_082-083_A2 Cat6.indd 82 15/5/08 1:24:23

1:23:49 PM
 LOWER FRENCH QUARTER, MARIGNY, AND TREME 83

VOODOO WORSHIP
Voodoo arrived in New Orleans from Africa, via the Caribbean,
where it originated as a form of ancestor worship among the
West African tribes who were brought to North America as
slaves. During the slave uprising in Saint Domingue in 1793,
many of the planters from Haiti fled to New Orleans, bringing
their slaves (and voodoo) with them. Voodoo enabled those
slaves to preserve their African culture and roots beneath
the mask of the Roman Catholic religion, for it mixed both
traditions. The most famous of all 19th-century voodoo
leaders was Marie Laveau (c.1794–1881), a mulatto and a great
marketer. She used such Catholic elements as prayer, incense,
and saints in her rituals, which she opened to the public for
an admission fee. The high point of the voodoo calendar was
the celebration she held along the Bayou St. John on St. John’s
Eve. She is believed to be buried at St. Louis Cemetery #1. Portrait of Marie Laveau

1830s. His plans were inspired trembling.” Near the cemetery

by the tombs in Paris’s Père office, the Barelli tomb recalls
Lachaise Cemetery. Grand in the tragedy that occurred on
design and scale, and modeled November 15, 1849, when
on Greek, Egyptian, and the steamer Louisiana
other Classical styles, the exploded, killing 86 people,
patterns for these ambitious including the young son of
mausoleums became very Joseph Barelli, who erected
popular in New Orleans. the memorial in 1856. Five
The tombs are like sculpted angels hover around
impressive residences, the tomb and a bas-relief
often enclosed within depicts the explosion.
beautiful wrought-iron A common legend says that
gates, featuring such Napoleon Bonaparte’s
motifs as lyres, winged followers were waiting for his
hourglasses, hearts, arrival in New Orleans from
inverted torches, and his exile in St. Helena, but
The Barelli tomb urns with arrows. The fences since he died beforehand on
around the tombs are some of December 20, 1821, a funeral
St. Louis the finest wrought-iron work in service for him was held here.
the city. The intricate immort- Like St. Louis #1, the
Cemetery #2 h elles made of wire, beads, cemetery is in a secluded
and glass are also unique and area where lone visitors have
Iberville to St Louis St, between N represent everlasting tributes been robbed. Guided visits,
Claiborne Ave and N Robertson St. to the dead. available from several
Map 4 B1. Tel 482-5065. @ 48, Among the notables buried organizations (see p198),
46, 52, 57. # 8:30am–4pm Mon– here are General Jean are advisable.
Sat, 8:30am–3pm Sun. 7 8 Baptiste Plauché, who
fought with Andrew
By the end of the Jackson at the Battle of
colonial period, and New Orleans (see p17).
mostly because of a J. N. B. DePouilly himself
devastating series of is humbly buried in a
epidemics, this cemetery modest wall vault with
was established as the his brother, who was
natural extension of St. also an architect. Other
Louis Cemetery #1 famous New Orleans
around 1823. The final figures buried here
resting place for include jazz
much of New musician Danny
Orleans’ 19th- Barker, and the
century Creole pirate Dominique
aristocracy, it Tree-shaped statue You (see p17), who
contains remarkably rests in the main
ornate mausoleums. Many of aisle in a tomb marked with
them were designed by a Masonic emblem and the
Jacques Nicholas Bussière De inscription: “This New Bayard
Pouilly, who arrived in New could have witnessed the end Creole family mausoleum,
Orleans from France in the of the world without fear or fallen into disrepair

USNO_082-083_A2 Cat6.indd 83 15/5/08 1:24:23

1:23:51 PM
 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
1 084 15/04/08 K09 00
Size: 125 x 217 (Bleed5mm) 000 000

USNO_084-085_intro3.indd 84 4/15/08 4:45:29 PM

 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
1 085 15/04/08 K09 00
Size: 125 x 217 (Bleed5mm) 000 000

N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 85

WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL

BUSINESS DISTRICTS

W hen the Americans

arrived after the
Louisiana Purchase
(see p17) they developed a
community of their own on
commercial and residential
district that matched the
Creole district downriver.
To d a y t h e C B D i n c o r -
porates narrow streets lined
the upriver side of Canal with Victorian warehouses,
Street. It was called the banks, and office buildings,
F a u b o u rg S t . M a r y a n d Louisiana State Seal a s w e l l a s s u c h b r o a d
extended from Canal Street at the Spanish Plaza thoroughfares as Poydras,
to Louisiana Avenue. Bet- which is lined with sky-
ween 1820 and 1860 the waterfront scrapers belonging to oil companies,
was developed, and behind it grew a hotels, and financial institutions.
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Museums and Galleries Entertainment Landmarks
Confederate Memorial Hall y Audubon Aquarium of the World Trade Center 5
Custom House/Audubon Americas pp90–91 7
Churches
Insectarium 9 Harrah’s Casino 6
St. Patrick’s Church 0
Gallier Hall q Louisiana Superdome w
Louisiana Children’s Museum i Orpheum Theater e Parks and Squares
The National WWII Museum o Lee Circle r
New Orleans Contemporary Spanish Plaza 3
Arts Center u Woldenberg Riverfront Park 1
Ogden Museum of
&

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USNO_084-085_intro3.indd 85 4/15/08 1:25:15

15/5/08 4:45:33 PM
 86 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: CBD
When the Americans arrived from the North in
the early 1800s they developed the uptown
side of Canal Street. It is still the city’s
commercial area, where the headquarters of
oil, sugar, and cotton corporations and many
public institutions are located. The median
Spanish coat- running through the middle of Canal Street
of-arms
was the neutral ground separating the
English-speaking Americans from the French-speaking
Creole community. Today, Canal Street is lined with
hotels, restaurants, and stores. A casino and the ferry to Harrah’s Casino
Algiers are located at the riverfront end. During the last This enormous casino, with
three decades the riverfront has been totally redeveloped its garish over-the-top decor,
with parks, walks, and such major attractions as the is open 24 hours a day, 365
Aquarium and Riverwalk Marketplace. days a year 6

World Trade Center

Built in the shape of a T
Greek cross, this 1960s C
H
O
skyscraper towers over P
IT
the river, port, O
U
LA
and Warehouse S
District 5 S
T
R
EE
T

Riverwalk Marketplace
Containing more than 120
stores, including a huge
food court, this is one of the
largest malls in the city 4

Spanish Plaza
This plaza has a beautiful
fountain at its center 3 MI
SS
IS
SI
PP
I R
IV
ER

Ferry to Algiers and

Mardi Gras World
A free ferry takes visitors STAR SIGHTS
across the Mississippi to
. Audubon Aquarium
Algiers and the fasci-
of the Americas
nating warehouse of
Blaine Kern’s Mardi . River Cruises
Gras World 2
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp164–5 and pp179–80

USNO_086-087_A3 SBS1.indd 86 15/5/08 1:31:34

1:29:50 PM
 WA R E H O U S E AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS 87

Canal Place 611&3

The city’s most upscale '3&/$)
26"35&3

. J T T J T T J Q Q J

shopping mall features
big names such as Saks, 8"3&)064&
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Gucci, and Williams- 
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Sonoma. There is also a

theater and a cinema
on the third floor 8 ("3%&/
%*453*$5

LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder, maps 4, 5,
and 8.
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ST
L
CA
NA . Audubon Aquarium of the
Americas
Marine life sculptures by Ida
Kohlmeyer are at the entrance 7

T
RE
E . River Cruises
ST
LE The Cajun Queen and
L
VI John James Audubon
ER
IB offer cruises from the
Audubon Aquarium of
the Americas (see p217).

Woldenberg
Riverfront Park
Named for local
businessman Malcolm
Woldenberg, the park
contains a charming
statue of Woldenberg,
but the most notable
KEY sculpture is the 16-ft
(5-m) tall kinetic steel
Suggested route
Ocean Song, by
John Scott 1

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 88 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Woldenberg
Riverfront Park 1
2 Canal St. Map 5 D3.
v Riverfront. @ 3, 55, 57. 7

The 16-acre Woldenberg Park

extends all the way along the
riverfront from St. Peter Street
to the Riverwalk Marketplace,
providing a pleasant garden
setting studded with contem-
porary sculpture. From
Jackson Square, visitors can
access Woldenberg Riverfront
Park via Washington Artillery
Park and the Moonwalk. The
former is an amphitheater-
shaped space, where many River view from the Woldenberg Riverfront Park
of the city’s street mimes and
other artists can be found; the World. Blaine Kern is often on to the floats to get an idea
latter is named after Moon called “Mr. Mardi Gras,” of what it is like to ride them.
Landrieu, who is widely re- because so many of the mas- The cost of making the floats
garded as paving the way for sive floats that roll through is borne by the krewes them-
the first black mayor, “Dutch” the streets of New Orleans selves, with contributions
Morial, to be elected in 1978 during Carnival (see pp28–9) from their members. These
(see p23). The park is open are constructed here in the dues can range anywhere
from dawn till dusk daily. 20 warehouse-dens of his between $300 and $3,000.
company. The tour begins
with coffee and King Cake
Ferry to Algiers and a short film showing Spanish Plaza 3
the floats in the Mardi Gras
and Mardi Gras parades and the stages of 2 Canal St. Map 5 D4. v Riverfront.
World 2 their production, from the @ 3, 55, 57. # 24 hrs daily.
original drawings and molds -0=6
The ferry is at the end of Canal St. to the manufacture of the
Map 5 D4. v Riverfront. @ 55, final pieces. Visitors are This small plaza at the
57. In Algiers take the shuttle to then free to don some entrance to the Riverwalk
Mardi Gras World, 233 Newton St, of the costumes that krewe Marketplace is a good place
Algiers. Tel 361-7821. # 9:30am– members have worn in past to take a rest and enjoy an
4:30pm daily. & = 8 parades. Many of these are uninterrupted view of the
www.mardigrasworld.com extremely heavy and ornate. river. A fountain stands at
Visitors can also wander its center, surrounded by a
From the foot of Canal Street, through the warehouses and circular mosaic bench on
a ferry crosses the river to view gigantic decorative which the coats of arms of
Algiers on the west bank, figures, which are made of all the New Orleans Spanish
where a minibus takes visitors either fiberglass or Styrofoam immigrants are depicted.
from the ferry landing to overlaid with papier-mâché. The Creole Queen paddle-
Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras It is also possible to climb wheeler departs from the
Plaza and takes passengers
downriver to the Chalmette
Battlefield Park, the site of
Andrew Jackson’s victory at
the Battle of New Orleans
(see p17). Rangers provide
a 40-minute tour of the site.
Adjacent to the battlefield is
Chalmette National Cemetery,
where thousands of Union
soldiers are buried. An ante-
bellum house, the Malus-
Beauregard home stands
on park property. This
residence was built in 1833
and purchased in 1880 by
the son of General P. G. T.
Fountain at the center of the Spanish Plaza Beauregard (see p71).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp164–5 and pp179–80

USNO_088-089 A3 Cat1.indd 88 17/5/08

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 WA R E H O U S E AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS 89

Riverwalk
Marketplace 4
1 Poydras St. Map 5 D4. Tel 522-
1555. v Riverfront. @ 3, 55, 57,
65. # 10am–7pm Mon–Sat,
noon–6pm Sun. 0 = -
www.riverwalkmarketplace.com

This massive riverside

shopping mall, designed by
the same company that
developed Boston’s Faneuil
Hall, contains more than 140
stores, including brand-name
favorites like Eddie Bauer, Entrance to the Riverwalk Marketplace
Brookstone, Banana Republic,
and the Museum Company. World Trade Harrah’s Casino 6
The entire top floor is the
food court, while a highlight Center 5 228 Poydras St. Map 5 D4. Tel 533-
of the ground floor is the 6000. v Riverfront. @ 3, 57, 65.
2 Canal St. Map 5 D4. Tel 529-
Creole Delicacies Gourmet # 24 hrs daily. = 0 )
Shop (see p189), which offers 1601. v Riverfront. @ 57, 65.
a two-hour course in cooking. www.wtcno.org This casino, which opened
In addition to shopping in October 1999, is close to
opportunities, the mall has an The World Trade Center the riverfront. Covering
outdoor walkway that runs building was designed by 100,000 sq ft (9,290 sq m)
along the Mississippi River, Edward Durrell Stone in the of floor space, Harrah’s offers
giving visitors one of the 1960s. Originally called the a vast ballroom in addition
best views of the river International Trade to a wide selection of games,
and river traffic in the Mart Building, it including 2,900 slot machines
city. International housed the head- and 117 table games featuring
and other cruise ships quarters of various baccarat, blackjack, craps,
dock alongside the mercantile companies and roulette.
marketplace, the most and consulates. Launched in July 2005,
notable being those Architecturally, it has Masquerade is a state-of-the-
operated by the Delta little to recommend it; art entertainment venue set
Queen Steamboat however, being built in at the heart of the casino. It
Company, which the shape of a Greek features a four-storey tower
was established in cross, it serves as a surrounded by a stage for the
1890. A number of useful landmark. The free nightly shows. There is
information plaques revolving Club 360 also an ice-topped bar and
attached to railings Riverside view of cocktail lounge, on exclusive lounge area.
the WTC Building
along the walkway the 33rd floor of the
describe everything building, has spectac-
from the types of boats plying ular views over New Orleans. Audubon Aquarium
their trade on the river to the Renovated after Hurricane of the Americas 7
seagulls that drift up from Katrina, the club also has
the Gulf of Mexico. a dance floor and a DJ. See pp90–91.

The modern and lively Harrah’s, a popular New Orleans casino

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90 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Audubon Aquarium of the

Americas 7
Concentrating on the waters around New Orleans, from the
Mississippi and the swamps to the Gulf of Mexico and the
Caribbean, this aquarium complex features some 500 spe-
cies of marine life. Highlights include a tank containing a
Caribbean reef, and a replica of an oil rig. The aquarium
lost much of its sea life due to generator failures in the
aftermath of Hurricane Katrina. It reopened in May 2006.

Sea Horses
These are among the
many creatures that
can be seen being fed
by divers in the Carib-
bean Reef tank.

Shark cove

The Amazon
Rainforest
Piranhas lurk in the
waters that flow
under the forest
canopy, which
is inhabited by
tropical birds and
wild orchids.

Food Court
with several
different
kinds of
restaurants.

Gift shop
Main entrance
and informa-
tion center

. The Caribbean
Reef
An acrylic tunnel
underneath a
132,000-gallon
tank provides a
startling perspec-
tive from which Jellyfish
to view the rays, These transparent, fluid creatures sway
parrot fish, and and dance in an exhibit that is one of
other denizens the largest of its kind anywhere in the
that float above. United States.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp164–5 and pp179–80

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WA R E H O U S E AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS 91

. The Gulf of VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Mexico
A 400,000-gallon Canal St at Mississippi River. Map
tank holds a replica 5 D3. Tel 581-4629. v River-
of an offshore oil rig, front. @ 3, 5, 55, 57. # 10am–
4pm Tue–Sun (to 5pm Sat, Sun).
around which swim
¢ Dec 24 and 25, Thanksgiving,
the species that share Mardi Gras. & 6 7 8 0 =
the waters – sharks,
tarpon, sting rays,
and sea turtles.

Adventure
Island
Frogs! has poison This interactive
dart frogs and other play area gives
amphibians from kids the chance to The Entergy
around the world. learn what sharks IMAX Theater
and stingrays feel This cinema
like and to explore adds a high-tech
dimension to the
a pirate ship.
complex. The
screen is 5 ½
stories high.

Sea Otter
Gallery
A lovable pair
of sea otters
frolic in this
exhibit where a
waterfall creates
waves for their
amusement.

STAR FEATURES

. The Mississippi River and . The Caribbean Reef

Delta Habitat . The Gulf of Mexico
Check out the blue-eyed, white alligator that
hangs suspended in the water along with . The Mississippi River
some other Mississippi regulars – catfish, and Delta Habitat
gar, and turtles.
Mardi Gras float, passing through the Central Business District

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94 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

border and a skylight above.

Juno and Mercury embellish
the capitals of the marble
columns that support the
structure. Over the years the
building has served as a post
office, armory, and prison.

St. Patrick’s
Church 0
724 Camp St. Map 4 C4. Tel 525-
4413. @ 3, 41. v St. Charles.
# 11am–1pm Mon–Sat, 9am–1pm
Sun. (Guided tours only.) 7 8
Main entrance to Canal Place and its many luxury stores
Established in 1833 to minister
Canal Place 8 and roaches. Two of the high- to the Irish Catholic popula-
lights are the cooking show, tion, the original St. Patrick’s
Canal and N Peters Sts. Map 4 C3. which illustrates the art of Church was replaced in 1841
@ 3. v Canal. # 10am–7pm cooking with insects, and at the urging of Father James
Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun. 7 = - Metamorphosis, a lab where Ignatius Mullon. The brothers
0 www.theshopsatcanalplace.com visitors can observe insect court- Charles and James Dakin
ship, mating, and life cycles. were the original architects,
Downtown’s most upscale Alexander Thompson Wood but James Gallier, Sr. replaced
shopping mall is anchored by was the original architect of them. It is an impressive
Saks Fifth Avenue, and con- the Custom House, though he church with a 185-ft (60-m)
tains fashionable stores such as was succeeded by James high tower, a Gothic-inspired
Betsey Johnson, Kenneth Cole, Dakin, Confederate General interior, and splendid stained-
Brooks Brothers, Williams- Beauregard (see p71), and glass vaulting in the sanctuary.
Sonoma, and Gucci. The third Thomas K. Wharton. Behind the altar are three
floor features the food court, Construction began in 1847 paintings by the French artist
plus the only cinema in the and was completed in 1881. Leon Pomarede. At the center
city that shows foreign, art- Inside, the Marble Hall is is a copy of Raphael’s Trans-
house, and independent films. a dramatic space under a figuration of Christ, flanked
The third floor also houses ground-glass ceiling with a by St. Patrick Baptizing the
the Southern Repertory Theat- decorative stained-glass Irish Princesses and Christ
er, which stages excel- Walking on Water.
lent productions and Each of these works
provides a showcase dates to 1841.
for local playwrights. Although the Irish
There are spectacular community has largely
views of the Mississip- moved away from the
pi River from the neighborhood, the
fourth floor. congregation still
draws loyal followers
Custom from other districts.
Father Mullon is still
House/ remembered as an
Audubon ardent Confederate.
He prayed publicly for
Insectarium 9 a Confederate victory,
and when General
423 Canal St. Map 4 C3. Benjamin “Beast”
@ 3. v Canal. Audubon Butler (see pp18–19)
Insectarium Tel 861-2537. accused him of refus-
# call for opening hours. ing to bury a Union
soldier, he volunteered
In the summer of 2008, that he would be “very
this architectural land- happy to bury them
mark will become the all.” At noon on St.
home of the Audubon Patrick’s Day, a mass is
Insectarium, a state-of- attended by most Cath-
the-art museum with olics as an important
fascinating displays of part of the festivities
termites, butterflies, The impressive tower of St. Patrick’s Church held all over the city.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp164–5 and pp179–80

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WA R E H O U S E AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS 95

remembered with a statue by The stadium was built

Atallio Piccirilli. Today, the between 1971 and 1975;
building is a popular vantage it occupies 52 acres, and
point during the famous Mardi stands 27 stories high.
Gras parades (see pp28–9). The New Orleans Arena, the
“babydome”, opened in 1999.
In 2002 the Charlotte, North
Louisiana Carolina, Hornets professional
Superdome w basketball team moved to
New Orleans and became the
Sugar Bowl Drive. Map 4 A3. Tel home team. The Arena is also
587-3663. @ 16. v St.Charles. home to the Tulane University
# for sporting events only. 7 & basketball team.
www.superdome.com
Greek Revival-style façade of New Orleans Arena 1501 Girod
Gallier Hall St. Map 4 A3. Tel 587-3663. Orpheum
www.neworleansarena.com
Gallier Hall q Theater e
This flying saucer-shaped land-
543 St. Charles Ave. Map 4 B4. Tel mark is home to local football 129 University Place. Map 4 B3.
Tel 524-3285. @ 3, 41.
525-5661. v St. Charles. # for teams the Saints and Tulane
tours only: 10am, 11am, noon, 2pm, University’s Green Wave. It is ¢ for restoration. 7 f
3pm. www.gallierhall.com also the venue for the annual
Sugar Bowl, and other sports This Beaux-Arts terracotta
James Gallier, Sr.’s sole and entertainment events. building opened in 1918 as
surviving masterpiece was Sadly, the Superdome has a vaudeville theater. It was
built between 1845 and 1850, become synonymous with the designed by G. Albert Lans-
at a cost of $342,000. Con- suffering of those affected by burgh and Samuel Stone, who
structed of bricks that were Hurricane Katrina. It was here lavished impressive detailing
plastered and scored to look that many thousands sought on the façade as well as an
like stone, the building is 215 refuge from the flood waters. ornate vaulted ceiling and
ft (65.5 m) deep, extending The building was severely baroque-inspired interior
behind a façade only 90 ft damaged by wind, flooding, decoration. In recent years
(27 m) wide. Six fluted Ionic and the frustrations of the the Orpheum has played
columns support the tymp- desperate people it har- host to a variety of music
anum on the façade, which is bored. In September festivals, plays, and a
decorated with bas-reliefs of 2006, the Superdome range of public and
Justice and Commerce created reopened after a $193 private events. It is also
by Robert A. Launitz. million restoration. the home of the Louis-
Gallier Hall was built to serve As the world’s largest iana Philharmonic
as the headquarters of the Sec- steel-constructed Orchestra (LPO).
ond Municipality when the city stadium that is When the orchestra
was briefly served by three unobstructed by pit flooded after
separate governments. In 1852 posts, the Orpheum Katrina, the LPO
it became City Hall, when the Superdome has hosted Theater detail relocated to Tulane
three “cities” (or districts) were the Super Bowl more University’s Dixon
reunited. Many great historical times than any other facility: Hall. The orchestra is due to
figures have lain in state here, Super Bowl XXXVI in 2002 return to the Orpheum when
including Jefferson Davis, was the sixth to be held here. it reopens in 2010.
president of the
Confederacy, and
General Beauregard.
The building faces
Lafayette Square, which
was laid out in 1788
as Place Gravier, and
renamed in 1824. The
square contains statues
of statesman Benjamin
Franklin by Hiram
Powers, and famed
Rights Senator Henry
Clay by Joel T. Hart.
John McDonogh, a
native of Baltimore
and a benefactor of
the New Orleans
public schools, is Louisiana Superdome, one of the world’s largest indoor stadiums

USNO_094-095 A3 cat2.indd 95 4/15/08 1:49:25

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 96 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Howard Memorial Library

was designed by native-born
Henry Hobson Richardson in
1888. This architectural master-
piece, with its splendid
wood-paneled rotunda, is
incorporated into the newly
designed, post-modern
Goldring Hall. These two
structures are designed to
wrap around the Confederate
Memorial Hall, so that the
complex fronts both Camp
Street and Lee Circle.
The museum contains works
from the 18th to the 21st cen-
tury, and portrays the diversity
of urban and rural life in the
South from the Depression to
the modern day. The collection
includes works by William
Henry Buck, Clarence Millet,
John McCrady, George Dureau,
Robert Gordy, Clementine
Hunter, and Ida Kohlmeyer.
Memorial to Robert E. Lee at Lee Circle The museum is operating a
reduced timetable as a result of
Lee Circle r his highly visible spot, for Hurricane Katrina. On Thurs-
accepting defeat gracefully at days, the Ogden After Hours
St. Charles Ave & Howard Ave. Map the end of the Civil War and features live music, refresh-
4 B5. @ 3, 41. v St. Charles. 7 urging his soldiers to renew ments, and special exhibits.
their allegiance to the United
The towering 60-ft (18-m) States and its laws.
column at the center of Lee Confederate
Circle, topped by a 16-ft (5-m)
Ogden Museum of Memorial Hall y
statue of Confederate general
Robert E. Lee, is one of the Southern Art t 929 Camp St at Howard Ave. Map
city’s key landmarks. For 4 B5. Tel 523-4522. @ 3, 11, 41.
many years the Lee Circle Camp St at Howard Ave. Map 4 B5. v St. Charles. # 10am–4pm Mon–
area was merely a grubby Tel 539-9600. @ 3, 11. v St. Sat. ¢ major holidays. & 8
intersection favored by Charles. # 11am–4pm Thu–Sun www.confederatemuseum.com
homeless people. More (and 6–8pm Thu). & 8 7
recently, however, it has www.ogdenmuseum.org One of the oldest museums
become the anchor of an in the city, Confederate
attractive new museum Opened in 1994, this museum Memorial Hall offers a moving
district. The brand new is named for Roger H. Ogden, experience. The memorabilia
Ogden Museum of Southern a philanthropist who donated on display tell the often tragic,
Art opens on to the circle and the core collection of some personal stories of the many
the D-Day Museum is just a 1,200 works by more than 400 young men who fought in
block away. Meanwhile, these Southern artists. The museum the Civil War. Some were
additions have boosted the displays its artworks in a two- teenagers, like Landon Creek,
regeneration of existing building complex connected who had fought in seven
museums nearby, such as the by a corridor gallery. The battles and was wounded
New Orleans Contemporary Romanesque-style three times by the age
Arts Center and the Confed-
erate Memorial Hall.
The Lee Monument, which
was sculpted by New Yorker
Alexander Doyle and inau-
gurated in 1884, has been the
subject of controversy over
the years. Critics highlight the
incongruity of a monument
to the leader of a white, pro-
slavery army having such a
prominent place in a black
majority city. But the prevail-
ing view is that Lee deserves The Howard Memorial Library, now part of the Ogden Museum

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp164–5 and pp179–80

USNO_096-097 A3 Cat3.indd 96 15/5/08 1:51:15

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 WA R E H O U S E A N D C E N T R A L B U S I N E S S D I S T R I C T S 97

of 15. Several display cases

contain objects relating to
the occupation of the city by
General “Beast” Butler (see
p18), including the document
ordering that all women who
insulted Union officers, wore
Confederate colors, or sang
Southern songs, were to be
locked up as if they were
common prostitutes.
The museum also possesses
a large collection associated
with the Confederate
president Jefferson Davis,
from his cradle to his military
boots. Several interesting
exhibits are devoted to the
black regiments, which served Replica of one of the Higgins boats in The National WWII Museum
on both sides during the Civil
War. The cypress hall of the
museum was originally
Louisiana Children’s The National
constructed in 1891 as a Museum i WWII Museum o
meeting place for Confederate
veterans to reflect on their 420 Julia St. Map 4 C5. Tel 523- 945 Magazine St and Howard Ave.
Civil War experiences and to 1357. @ 10, 11. v St. Charles. Map 4 C5. Tel 527-6012. @ 3, 41.
house and protect their relics. # 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sat, noon– # 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. ¢ Thanks-
4:30pm Sun. ¢ public hols. & 8 giving, Dec 24 and 25, Mardi Gras.
7 = www.lcm.org & 8 7 - www.nationalww2
museum.org
This activity-oriented museum
allows children to entertain This museum celebrates New
themselves with a variety Orleans shipbuilder Andrew
of role-playing games, plus Higgins, who played a major
other interactive exhibits role in many World War II
with a didactic focus. Kids events, including D-Day in
can anchor their own news June 1944 (see p22). More
show in the TV studio, go than 20,000 of Higgins’s crafts
Modern art bench, at the shopping in the supermarket, were deployed in US landings
Contemporary Arts Center or pilot their own tugboat, on all fronts during the war,
and there is an area designed from North Africa to the Pacific
New Orleans specifically for one- to Islands. Among the most
three-year-olds. One of the inspiring exhibits on display
Contemporary museum’s newest exhibits is are nine oral history stations
Arts Center u a child-sized replica of the which feature real-life stories
Port of New Orleans. narrated by the participants.
900 Camp St. Map 4 C5. Tel 528- They are accompanied
3805. @ 11. v St. Charles. by all kinds of war-time
# 11am–4pm Thu–Sun. ¢ public memorabilia donated
hols. & 8 7 www.cacno.org by veterans, including
letters, uniforms, and
This warehouse-style center weapons. Electronic
is the city’s premier space for maps, mini-theaters,
all of the contemporary arts, and photomurals
from dance, painting, film, illustrate the role
and video, to performance played by the US in
art, theater, and music. The World War II. The
museum combines the origi- museum is currently
nal structure with modern undergoing a $300-
designs to its full advantage, million expansion that
presenting a unique, modern will quadruple its size
space mostly illuminated with by 2009. The new
natural light that houses four facility will cover all
galleries and two theaters. the theaters of World
The rotating shows in the War II and include
galleries usually remain for vintage vehicles, such
four to eight weeks. The café The Louisiana Children’s Museum, as tanks and planes,
provides free Internet access. playground for children of all ages and a 400-seat theater.

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98 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Loyola University

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USNO_098-099 intro4.indd 98 4/15/08 1:52:11

15/5/08 4:01:07 PM
 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
1 099 15/04/08 K09 00
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N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 99

GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN

I n 1832 a residential quarter was

established uptown on the
former Livaudais Plantation.
The land was subdivided and
developed to create the city of
The minimum building plot was a
quarter block to ensure that only
grand residences would be built
here. The area became known
as the Garden District because
Lafayette, which was of the lush gardens that were
incorporated into New Orleans in laid out around the mansions. Fears
1852. Here, between Jackson and were high that these architecturally
Louisiana avenues, and St. and historically significant
Charles Avenue and Magazine Stone sculpture at neighborhoods would be
Tulane University
Street, wealthy merchants, damaged in the aftermath of
planters, and bankers built mansions in Hurricane Katrina. However, they
a variety of styles, ranging from Greek were spared by the waters, and today
Revival to Italianate and Queen Anne. they are as beautiful as ever.

KEY
Street-by-Street map
See pp100–101
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GETTING THERE
The St. Charles Ave. streetcar runs
through the entire area. RTA routes
90 and 24 run from Carrollton and
Napoleon avenues to Mid-City.
Route 10 runs along Tchoupitoulas
St. and 11 goes along Magazine St.

USNO_098-099 intro4.indd 99 4/15/08 1:52:12

15/5/08 4:01:08 PM
 100 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: Garden District Claiborne

Cottage
When the Americans arrived in New Orleans, they This cottage
settled upriver from the French Quarter. The plantations was built in
that lined St. Charles Avenue in the 1820s were sub- 1857 for the
divided and the city of Lafayette established. It was daughter of
incorporated into the city of New Orleans in 1852. the first
Today, this area is referred to as the Garden District, American
a residential neighborhood filled with grand Victorian governor of
mansions built by wealthy city merchants and Louisiana. It
planters. The gardens, planted with magnolia, has served as
camellia, sweet olive, jasmine, and azalea, are a school and
as stunning as the residences themselves. a convent 3

UE
EN
AV
N
TO
I NG PR
A SH YT
AN
W IA

CO
LIS
EU
M
ST
RE
ET

. Lafayette Cemetery
Confederate General Harry T.
Hays and Samuel Jarvis Peters,
a wealthy 19th-century developer ET
of the Garden District, are buried RE
ST
in this cemetery, which often H
4T
appears in Anne Rice’s books 2

KEY
Suggested route

Briggs-Staub
House
This handsome
Gothic Revival
mansion was
designed by
James Gallier,
Sr. in 1849 4

Commander’s Palace
Excellent Creole food is the specialty 0 meters 40
of this landmark restaurant, one of
the best in the US (see p182). 0 yards 40

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_100-101_A4 SBS1.indd 100 5/15/08 9:06:00

9:05:07 AM
 G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 101

.*%$*5:

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LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder maps 6 and 7

. Colonel Short’s Villa

Built in 1859 for Colonel Robert Short of Kentucky and
designed by Henry Howard, the house has an exquisite
morning glory and cornstalk fence (see p39) 0
ST
CHA
RLE Women’s Guild
S A
V ENU
E Opera House
This Greek Revival
AN mansion was designed
IA
in 1858 by William
ST
RE
Freret 9
ET

T
EE
R
ST
D
R
3

. Robinson House
One of the grandest residences in the
Garden District, Robinson House was
built between 1859 and 1865 for Virginia
tobacco merchant Walter Robinson 5

STAR SIGHTS

Musson-Bell House . Colonel Short’s

This was the home of Villa
Michel Musson, uncle
. Lafayette Cemetery
of artist Edgar Degas; an
iron merchant added the . Robinson House
lacy galleries later q

USNO_100-101_A4 SBS1.indd 101 5/15/08 9:06:01

9:05:11 AM
 102 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

St. Charles Avenue position by the time

Streetcar 1 he was 30. He was
one of the movers
See pp104–105. and shakers who
developed the area
north of Canal Street,
Lafayette fashioning it into a
Second Municipality
Cemetery 2 comparable to the
downtown Creole
1600 block of Washington Ave. community south of
Map 7 F3. v St. Charles. @ 11, Canal Street. It had
14. # 7am–2:30pm Mon–Fri, its own fashionable
7am–noon Sat. ¢ public hols. 8 hotel, the St. Charles,
which was equal
This walled cemetery was to the St. Louis and
laid out in 1833 by Benjamin mirrored its Creole
Buisson to accommodate the counterpart in
residents of the adjacent other ways.
Garden District. The second One of the most
Protestant cemetery to open striking memorials
in New Orleans, it is the rest- in this cemetery is
ing place of many German the one built in 1852
and Irish Protestants, as to commemorate Greek columns, Claiborne Cottage
well as numerous Amer- the Jefferson Fire
icans who had migrated Company #22. It is
here from the east coast. embellished with
Claiborne
By 1840 it was full, mostly a typical pumper. Cottage 3
with yellow fever victims, In her book Interview
and a new cemetery with the Vampire 2524 St. Charles Ave. Map 7 F3.
was needed. Anne Rice often v St. Charles. @ 11, 14.
Among the gives Lestat and ¢ to the public.
notables buried Claudia free
here are Con- Angel statue at Lafayette rein to wander The history of this Greek
federate general around this Revival-style cottage is
Harry T. Hays and Samuel cemetery. The author herself disputed, but the plaque in
Jarvis Peters (1801–85), an staged a mock burial here on front states that it was built in
influential city politician and July 14, 1995, to promote her 1857 for Louise Claiborne, the
land developer. A Canadian, book, Memnoch the Devil. daughter of the first governor
Peters arrived in New Orleans The wall vaults were added of Louisiana. She was married
and ascended to a powerful to the cemetery in 1858. to Mandeville Marigny, the
youngest son of Bernard
de Marigny (see p82), who
introduced dice to the United
States. His gambling friends
thought he resembled a frog,
and so he was nicknamed
“Le Crapaud,” after which the
game “craps” takes its name.
Some experts date the
house to 1860 and claim that
it was built for a Virginian,
James Dameron.

Briggs-Staub
House 4
2605 Prytania St. Map 7 F3.
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14.
¢ to the public.

A rarity in New Orleans, this

Gothic Revival home was
built for gambler Cuthbert
Bullitt in 1849. The Gothic
style is uncommon in this
Above-ground vaults at Lafayette Cemetery part of the city, because
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_102-103 A4 Cat1.indd 102 5/15/08 9:08:45

5:12:27 AM
PM
 G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 103

of the day: a conservatory, a

marble pantry, a passenger
elevator, and a magnificent
circular staircase. It is one
of the few houses in the
city to have a basement.
Since 1929 it has served as
a private school for girls. The
cafeteria was once a stable,
and the gym is a refurbished
carriage house. Note the
steep mansard roof with its
wrought-iron parapet and
the unique bull’s-eye window
on the façade. The gardens
contain some magnificent
Gothic arched windows, Briggs-Staub House magnolias and ginger trees.

many Protestant Americans painted ceilings. It was one

claimed it reminded them of the first buildings in the Carroll-Crawford
of Roman Catholic France. city to have indoor plumbing. House 7
After James Gallier, Sr. had An unusual feature of this
designed the building, Bullitt mansion is the curved portico. 1315 First St. Map 8 A3.
refused to pay for it, perhaps v St. Charles. @ 11, 14.
because of a gambling loss, ¢ to the public.
and the house subsequently Louise S. McGehee
became the property of School 6 This broadly proportioned
Charles Briggs, an English house was designed by
insurance executive. 2343 Prytania St. Map 8 A3. Samuel Jamison in 1869 for
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14. Joseph Carroll, a cotton
¢ to the public. merchant from Virginia. The
surrounding gardens include
James Freret designed this venerable live oaks and other
elaborate French Second lush plantings. A two-story
Empire home in 1872 for home with octagonal wings,
sugar planter Bradish Johnson, the house is Italianate in
for $100,000. Freret had design with fine cast-iron
recently returned from Paris galleries, made in New
and was enamored of the Orleans by Jacob Baumiller.
École des Beaux-Arts, which The original carriage house
is evident in this mansion’s can still be seen around the
Renaissance Revival style. corner on Chestnut Street.
When it was built, the house Jamison also constructed
incorporated all of the an identical building at
The second-floor galleries at fashionable interior design 1331 First Street for cordage
Robinson House elements and conveniences dealer Joseph C. Morris.

Robinson House 5
1415 3rd St. Map 8 A3. v St.
Charles. @ 11, 14. ¢ to the public.

One of the grandest and

largest residences in the
Garden District, this house
was built for the Virginia
tobacco merchant, Walter
Robinson. Designed by
Henry Howard, it was built
between 1859 and 1865. The
galleries of this Italian-style
villa are supported with Doric
columns on the first floor and
Corinthian on the second.
Domenico Canova, a famous
European craftsman, was
hired to decorate the interior,
which boasts elaborate The ornate façade of the Carroll-Crawford House

USNO_102-103 A4 Cat1.indd 103 5/15/08 9:08:45

5:12:28 AM
PM
 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30 W2k-2
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104 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

St. Charles Avenue Streetcar 1

For a slow-moving romance, take a ride

on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar, which
passes many of New Orleans’ most famous
landmarks. It was this type of streetcar
that inspired Tennessee Williams’s
drama A Streetcar Named Desire. It
travels 6.5 miles (10 km) from Canal
Street through the Central Business
District, along tree-shaded St. Charles
Statue of Avenue to Carrollton Avenue. It
John McDonogh, began operating in 1835 under steam
Lafayette Square
power; in 1867 mule power took
over, then, in 1893, it was electrified. Claiborne Cottage
Due to electrical damage sustained during Hurricane This classic raised cottage
Katrina, the St. Charles Avenue streetcar was out of was built in 1857 for the
commission for more than two years. The return of daughter of the first
its familiar green cars was greeted with delight by American Louisiana
New Orleanians during the holiday season of 2007. governor (see p102).

A metal pole
conducts power from
an overhead cable.

Touro Synagogue
This building is named after
Judah Touro, who came to
New Orleans from Newport,
Rhode Island, and donated
the money for its construction.

Christ Church
Lee Circle This bulding is
This 60-ft (18-m)- tall Doric one of the few
column supports a statue examples of
of General Robert E. Lee, Gothic Revival
looking north (see p96). style in the city.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_104-105_A4 SS1.indd 104 4/16/08 9:13:15

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G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 105

ST. CHARLES AVENUE SIGHTS 0 kilometers 2

Christ Church 4 0 miles 1

Claiborne Cottage 3
Lafayette Square 1
Lee Circle 2
St. Charles House 7
The Columns 5 v CA
NA
FRENCH
L QUARTER
E ST
The Latter Public AV
Library 8 LT
ON POY
DRA v
OL S ST
RR
Touro CA
AY
Synagogue 6 v
W

v
D
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AV
BR

v 2 1
N
SO
ER
TULANE
v

JA
FF

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W
UNIVERSITY
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LOYOLA

HI

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v UNIVERSITY

NAPOLEON AV

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AV
ISIA
v

TO
NA

N
AUDUBON PARK
v

AV
AV
KEY v v
4
5
v Streetcar stops 8 v 7 v ST. CHARLES AV v 3
GARDEN DISTRICT
6
Streetcar route

The seats are made of slatted

polished wood with brass
handles and can be reversed
for the return trip.
Blinds pro-
tect against
the sun.

St. Charles House

Dating from the 1850s, this
house may be the oldest on
the street.

Windows open
wide for a fresh
breeze.

The Columns
Built for a wealthy
cigar manufactur-
er, this imposing
building was used
by director Louis The Latter Public Library
Malle as one of the One of the most elegant library buildings,
sets for his movie the Latter Public Library started life in 1907
Pretty Baby as a private mansion and was donated to
(1970). the city in the 1940s.

USNO_104-105_A4 SS1.indd 105 4/16/08 9:13:15

5/15/08 8:51:44 AM
 106 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

foreclosed and sold at auction the 1820s, French singers

for $5,000. The grounds con- and musicians were being
tain an interesting fountain, brought over to perform at
which was fashioned from the Théâtre d’Orleans. The
a large sugar kettle. French Opera House, at
Nowadays, it is privately Bourbon and Toulouse,
owned and closed to the opened on December 1, 1859,
public. However, its façade with a performance of Rossini’s
is an impressive example of William Tell. All of the great
the Greek Revival style, and singers performed here, inclu-
it remains one of the most ding Léonce Escalais, Julia
beautiful houses in the Calvé, Etta Roehl, and Adelina
Garden District. Patti, who saved the season
in 1860. The house seated
more than 2,000 patrons in
Toby’s Corner, a 19th-century Greek
Revival-style residence
Women’s Guild four tiers, with a splendid
Opera House 9 red-and-white mirrored
Toby’s Corner 8 2504 Prytania St. Map 8 A3.
interior. The fourth tier was
reserved for blacks. A fire
2340 Prytania St. Map 8 A3. Tel 899-1945. v St. Charles. @ 11, destroyed the Opera House
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27. 14, 27. # for tours by appointment in 1919, and it has never
¢ to the public. only. & 8 been replaced. The Women’s
Guild Opera House is open
Built around 1838, this house William Freret designed the to the public for guided tours
was constructed for Thomas original Greek Revival section for 20 or more people with
Toby and is believed to be of this house in 1858 for advance reservations.
the oldest residence in the a wealthy merchant. The
Garden District. Toby was a octagonal tower was
native Philadelphian, who added later. In 1996 the Colonel Short’s
moved to New Orleans and house was bequeathed Villa 0
became a very successful to the Women’s Guild of
wheelwright. He amassed the New Orleans Opera 1448 Fourth St. Map 7 F3.
a huge fortune but lost it Association, and it is v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27.
financing Sam Houston now used for meetings ¢ to the public.
and the cause for Texas inde- and receptions. It also
pendence from Mexico. It features some exhibits Henry Howard
was, in fact, his wife who relating to the history of Cornstalk designed this large
paid for the construction opera in New Orleans. fence detail Italian-style residence
of the house. Subsequently, The city built the in 1859 for native
Toby worked as a plantation first opera house in the Kentuckian Colonel Robert
manager until he died. United States and in the Short. The veranda, with fine
After the Civil War (see 19th century it was a major iron railings, extends around
pp18–19) the house was opera center. As early as three sides of the house. An

The Women’s Guild Opera House, combining an octagonal tower and a Greek Revival main house

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_106-107 A4 Cat 2.indd 106 5/15/08 9:17:56

9:17:18 AM
 G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 107

born in New Orleans and

grew up in the Irish Channel,
has portrayed the city in
many of her best selling
Vampire Chronicles, which
began with the Interview
with the Vampire, published
in 1976. She and her hus-
band, poet-scholar Stan Rice,
returned to New Orleans
from San Francisco in 1988.
Rice used this house as the
setting for her book The
Witching Hour (1990). Rice
spent her teenage years at
2524 St. Charles Avenue,
which inspired much of her
novel Violin. The author
Colonel Short’s Villa, with its remarkable cornstalk fence has restored several historic
buildings. After Stan died in
exquisite ironwork fence, blow and he sold the house 2003, Anne began to sell her
incorporating a morning glory in 1869, moving his family to New Orleans properties.
and cornstalk motif, encloses a rented house on Esplanade
the gardens (see pp38–9). The Avenue (see p126).
story goes that the Colonel
Payne-Strachan
had it installed to please his Brevard-Wisdom- House e
wife. Unlike a similar fence
on Royal Street in the French Rice House w 1134 First St. Map 8 A4.
Quarter (see p77), famous for v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27.
its detailed ironwork, this one 1239 First St. Map 8 A3. ¢ to the public.
has not been painted and v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27.
shows its original colors. In ¢ to the public. This grand home was built in
September 1863, the Union the 1850s by Judge Jacob U.
troops seized the residence. Fans of the Gothic author Payne, who brought slaves
It was returned to the family Anne Rice stop to gawk at from his plantation in Ken-
after the Civil War (see pp18– the Brevard-Wisdom-Rice tucky and had them construct
19). Although closed to the House, where she lived it. The two-story Greek Revival
public, the famous cornstalk from 1989 to 2003. The residence features Ionic col-
fence is much visited. house was designed by umns on the first gallery and
James Calrow for merchant Corinthian on the second. The
Albert Hamilton Brevard in house passed to Payne’s son-
Musson-Bell 1857 and cost $13,000, at in-law, Charles Erasmus Fen-
House q the time a formidable sum. ner, a close friend of Jefferson
It is adorned with ornate Davis, United States senator
1331 Third St. Map 8 A4. ironwork, including a fence and president of the Confeder-
v St. Charles. @ 11, 14, 27. incorporating a charming acy (see pp96–7). Davis died
¢ to the public. rose motif, for which reason here on December 6, 1889,
the house is referred to as in the first-floor guest room.
When this handsome “Rosegate.”
Italianate villa was built in Ionic and
1853 for Michel Musson Corinthian
(1812–85), he was a columns
successful cotton merchant support the
and prominent Creole, and galleries. The
was also the New Orleans second owners
postmaster (see p126). of the pro-
Musson had close ties with perty, the
his extended family, including Clapp family,
his sister Celestine Musson added the
Degas, who lived in France. hexagonal
Celestine’s son, Edgar Degas, wing in 1869.
was to become one of the The gardens
world’s great artists. are splendid
After the Civil War Degas and feature
came to visit Louisiana but it some stunning
is unlikely he ever saw this camellias.
house. The war had dealt Anne Rice,
Musson’s fortunes a severe who was Musson-Bell House, in the Italianate style

A stately Victorian home on St. Charles Avenue

USNO_106-107 A4 Cat 2.indd 107 5/15/08 9:17:56

9:17:20 AM
USNO_108-109 A4 2p DPS.indd 108 5/15/08 9:32:01 AM
USNO_108-109 A4 2p DPS.indd 109 5/15/08 9:32:05 AM
 110 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Jesus Roman Catholic Church, Amistad

the design of which was
inspired by Canterbury Collection y
Cathedral in the UK.
The statue of Jesus with Tilton Hall, Tulane University.
uplifted arms in front of Map 6 B3. Tel 862-3222.
Marquette is referred to v St. Charles. @ 15, 22.
locally as “Touchdown # 8:30am–4:30pm Mon–Fri. 6
Jesus,” for obvious reasons.
This research center is named
for the famous slave mutiny
Tulane aboard the Cuban slave ship
University t Amistad in 1839. After a trial
in Hartford, Connecticut, the
6823 St. Charles Ave. Map 6 B2. slaves were acquitted and
Tel 865-5000. v St. Charles. allowed to return home. The
@ 22, 15. # 9am–5pm daily. 8 American Missionary Associa-
tion, an organization formed
A side window of Loyola Founded in 1834 as a medical to defend the slaves, estab-
University’s chapel college, the precursor of lished the center’s archive,
Tulane University was given which moved from Fisk Uni-
Loyola its present name in 1882 after versity to New Orleans in 1969.
it received a substantial gift It consists of documents, pho-
University r from Paul Tulane, a native tos, pamphlets, and oral history
of Princeton, New Jersey. records. A small gallery shows
6363 St. Charles Ave. Tel 865-2011. He made a fortune from a the works of artists including
Map 6 B3. v St. Charles. @ 22, merchandising business, such names as Henry O.
15. # 9am–7pm daily. 8 which he launched in New
Orleans in 1822. Tulane’s
The Jesuit Order established School of Business is the Newcomb Art
the College of the Immaculate oldest college of commerce Gallery u
Conception downtown in in the country.
1840. It merged with Loyola The University moved to Tulane University. Map 6 B2. Tel
College in 1912, and together its current location in 1894. 865-5328. v St. Charles. @ 22,
they became Loyola Univer- The 110-acre campus has 15. # noon–5pm Tue–Sun. ¢
sity. The Tudor-Gothic build- 79 buildings, designed in a public hols and summer months. 6
ings house the largest Catholic variety of styles. The Howard
university in the South. The Tilton Memorial Library In 1886 Josephine Le Monnier
three buildings facing St. houses the Hogan Jazz Newcomb founded a women’s
Charles Avenue are Marquette Archive, plus other special college that was allied with
Hall, the adjacent Thomas Hall, collections. About 12,000 Tulane University. Initially she
and the Most Holy Name of students attend the university. donated $100,000 in memory

Stately Tulane University’s Gibson Hall, built in Richardson-Romanesque style

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_110-111_A3 cat3.indd 110 5/15/08 9:35:38

9:35:13 AM
 G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 111

Barracks Street. He stayed

only four months before
taking off for another brief
sojourn as tutor to a young
girl at Oakley Plantation in
West Feliciana Parish (see
p151). Here, in this rich orni-
thological environment, he
began many of his bird por-
traits, but he stayed only a
short time because of a dis-
pute with his employer. He
returned to New Orleans and
took up residence at a studio
at 505 Dauphine Street.

Audubon Zoo o
Taking a rest on a hot day in Audubon Park
See pp112–13.

of her daughter Harriot alone covered almost four

Sophie Newcomb, who died times the surface of the Super- Riverbend p
at the age of 15 in 1870. dome (see p95). The first
When Josephine herself died, streetcar was introduced at the Riverfront of St. Charles Ave.
she left an additional estate Expo, and it so entranced Map 6 A1. v St. Charles. @ 34.
of more than $2.5 million Thomas Lipton of tea compa-
to the college. ny fame that he became a With more than 300 billion
The Woldenberg motorman. The Mardi Gras gallons of water flowing by
Art Center houses Krewe of Rex (see pp28–9) the city each day, New Orleans
the Newcomb Art arrived at the Expo aboard lives under the constant threat
Gallery and a a yacht, establishing a tra- of flood. A system of spill-
smaller space to dition that survives to this ways, pumps, and levees, like
display student day. Inside the park there this one along the St. Charles
and faculty works. is a fine executive golf Avenue Riverfront, forms a
The Newcomb course, several line of defense against the
Gallery focuses ponds, recreation Mississippi. Still, certain sec-
on presenting areas, sport facili- tions of the city are prone to
traveling shows ties, and the Audubon flooding, particularly after
and also curates its Zoo, which occu- heavy rains. The pumping
own exhibitions. Bronze statue in pies 58 acres of the system was installed soon
The name of Audubon Park grounds. The park after 1927 when the city was
Newcomb is more was named for nat- so threatened that the authori-
familiarly associated with the uralist John James Audubon, ties cut the levee below the
arts-and-crafts style of pottery whose statue stands in its city in St. Bernard Parish to
that was made at the New- grounds. Audubon, the artist forestall urban flooding. This
comb College of Art from of Birds of America, was born part of the levee has been
1895 to 1940. The gallery has in the West Indies. He came adapted as a recreation area,
some typical pieces on display. to New Orleans and rented where visitors can enjoy a
his first studio in 1821 at 706 beautiful view of the river.

Audubon Park i
6500 Magazine St. Map 6 B3.
v St. Charles. @ 22, 11. 6 7
www.auduboninstitute.org

This park was carved out of

the plantations owned by the
Foucher and Boré families in
1871. The 1884 World’s Indus-
trial and Cotton Exposition
was held here. New Orleans
was still recovering from the
double devastations of the
Civil War and Reconstruction
(see pp18–19), and the expo-
sition helped boost the city’s
morale. The main building Riverbend, a popular place for outdoor recreation

USNO_110-111_A3 cat3.indd 111 5/15/08 9:35:38

9:35:14 AM
 112 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Audubon Zoo o

This appealing 58-acre zoo, landscaped

with fountains and water gardens, can be
toured easily in a few hours. It opened in
1938 but was completely redesigned in
the 1980s; today most of the animals
are living in open paddocks that
replicate their natural habitats. Only a
few of the 1930s buildings remain. The
swamp exhibit is one of the most
Elephant giving
engaging, showcasing Louisiana white . Louisiana Swamp
a show
alligators, as well as Acadian culture Alligators bask along the
and music. The world-class zoo is part of Audubon banks or float like logs in
Park (see p111), one of the loveliest urban parks in the the muddy lagoon.
country. Originally, the 340-acre park was the sugar
plantation of Jean Etienne Boré, who developed the
commercially successful sugar granulation process. It
was also the location of the 1884 World Exposition.

Primates,
such as orangutans
and gorillas,
play here.

The African Savannah

Rhinos, hippos, marabou
storks, zebra, kudu, and white
pelicans all live together with a
host of opportunistic visitors
such as ibis, heron, and egrets.

Tropical Bird House

Reptile Encounter
King cobra, python, boa
Sea Lions constrictors, and the
The sea lion pool is one of the oldest features of impressive Komodo dragon
the zoo. Feeding time draws the crowds. hold court here.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_112-113_A4 SS2.indd 112 5/15/08 9:37:36

9:37:19 AM
 G A R D E N D I S T R I C T A N D U P T O W N 113

. Jaguar Jungle VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Sloths, spider
monkeys, and 6500 Magazine St. Map 6 B3.
anteaters cohabit Tel 581-4629. @ 11. v St.
with jaguars in this Charles. # 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
(to 5pm Sat, Sun). ¢ Dec 24–
exhibit, which is
25, Thanksgiving, first Friday in
built around a May, Mardi Gras. & 7 8 0
replica of Mayan
ruins set in a super-
lush jungle.

Flamingos
Near the river
cruise landing, a
peaceful lake is
home to dozens
of beautiful
flamingos.

Elephant Plaza
An elephant show is
presented in front of
the plaza, while
children are
able to enjoy
the unique
experience of
touching one.
St. Charles
Streetcar free
Main entrance
shuttle stop

Australian
Outback
This area
recreates the STAR FEATURES
Australian out-
. Jaguar Temple
back with its
kangaroos and . Louisiana Swamp
kookaburras.

USNO_112-113_A4 SS2.indd 113 5/15/08 9:37:36

9:37:21 AM
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114 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

" $

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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

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GETTING THERE
Routes 22, 46, 48, 54, 90.
The Canal Streetcar runs from
the Mississippi River to City
Park Ave. A spur line goes to
City Park itself.
Rose garden entrance, Botanical Gardens

USNO_114-115 A5 Intro.indd 114 15/4/08 9:38:33

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N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 115

MID-CITY
E xtending from the French
Quarter toward Lake Pont-
chartrain, Mid-City is the
greenest part of New Orleans, with
the largest swath of land taken up
Cypress Grove. The major streets in the
area are Canal Street and Esplanade
Avenue. Canal cuts through a
series of ethnic neighborhoods,
while Esplanade is lined with
by City Park. This is carved out of Creole mansions. Mid-City
an old plantation that was donated suffered heavily from flooding
to the city in 1850 by bank director in the aftermath of Hurricane
John McDonogh on the provision Katrina. With the exception of
that the funds from its sale be a few small patches where the
used for public schools. The land is above sea level, the region
city bent the rules a little and was under water for weeks.
created a park instead. The Tremendous strides have been
Angel statue in
other green areas in Mid-City Greenwood cemetery
made toward reconstruction,
are given over to various and today the bright-red Canal
cemeteries such as Greenwood, s t r e e t c a r r u m b l e s t h r o u g h t h i s
Metairie, St. Louis Cemetery #3, and charming area once again.

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USNO_114-115 A5 Intro.indd 115 15/4/08 9:38:34

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116 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Street-by-Street: City Park

This 1,500-acre park is the tenth-largest
urban park in the US. Hurricane Katrina
caused huge amounts of damage to the
grounds, trees, infrastructure, and facilities,
but most of the park has now reopened.
Visitors flock to the spectacular Botanical
Sculpture Gardens and the New Orleans Museum of
at NOMA
Arts, while kids love the carousel and Story-
land, a theme park with rides and Mardi Gras exhibits.
Eight miles of lagoons allow for fishing and boating.
The park’s latest addition, the Besthoff Sculpture
Garden, showcases 30 major 20th-century sculptures. Storyland and Carousel
The wooden carousel is one
of the main attractions in
this children’s park 3

Sports Facilities
The Pan-American Stadium
hosts many high-school
VICTORY AVENUE
football games 5

DRIVE
S
DREYFOU

Popp’s Bandstand
Named after lumber
magnate John Popp, CITY
PARK
this bandstand is often AVEN
UE
used by jazz bands
and mime artists.

0 meters 100 KEY

0 yards 100
Suggested route

The Peristyle
An entrance to a building that was
never erected, the Peristyle formerly
functioned as a dancehall. Today
it is a picnic area.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

USNO_116-117 A5 SBS1.indd 116 15/4/08 9:40:07

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M I D - C I T Y 117

. New Orleans
Botanical Gardens
Botanical exhibits
and themed gardens – .*%$*5:

including the famous

rose gardens – cover '3&/$)
26"35&3
10 acres of this ever-
popular park. Statues 8"3&)064&
%*453*$5

$#%
by Mexican artist
Enrique Alferez stand
among the trees 4 LOCATOR MAP
See Street Finder map 1

. New Orleans
RO

Museum of Art
OS

A Beaux-Arts building
EV

houses a collection
EL

of American and
T
M

international art 1
AL
L

Besthoff Sculpture
Garden
L
E
L
O
N
G
D
R
IV
E

Dueling Oaks
As many as ten duels a day were
once fought here. The last one
was a challenge with sabers
and took place in 1939 2

STAR SIGHTS
. New Orleans Botanical
Gardens
The Casino (1912)
Originally a casino, this Mission Revival build- . New Orleans Museum
ing houses a visitors’ center, offering tourist of Art
information, a gift shop, and food concessions.

USNO_116-117 A5 SBS1.indd 117 15/4/08 9:40:08

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 118 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Rapunzel, and many others.

Story reading, puppet shows
in the Puppet Castle, and
face painting are also on
the agenda.
The carousel, situated in
the southwest corner of the
gardens, was built in 1906
and is one of the few wooden
carousels to have survived in
the US. Nearby, visitors can
climb aboard a miniature
train, which has run around
the park since 1896. A new,
larger Ferris wheel will open
in 2008.

The Flute Player, by Enrique Alferez, at the Botanical Gardens

New Orleans
Botanical Gardens 4
from a local fencing academy,
New Orleans who chose sabers as their Victory Ave, City Park. Map 2 A1.
Museum of Art 1 weapons. The owner of the Tel 483-9386. @ 46, 48, 90. v
original plantation from which Canal. # 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
See pp120–23. City Park was carved, Louis ¢ Dec 25, Jan 1, Mardi Gras. & =
Allard, is said to be buried at 7 www.neworleanscitypark.com
the foot of one of the oaks.
Dueling Oaks 2 This 10-acre public garden
was created in the 1930s. Back
City Park. Map 2 A1. @ 46, 48, 90.
Storyland and then, it was mainly a rose
v Canal. 7 Carousel Gardens 3 garden, but today there are
also spring and perennial
Behind the famous statue of City Park. Map 2 A1. Tel 482-4888. gardens featuring azaleas,
Confederate General P. G. T. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal. # 10am– camellias, and magnolias, as
Beauregard (see p71), which 5pm Sat, Sun. ¢ Dec 25. & 7 well as tropical plants and
guards the entrance to City www.neworleanscitypark.com trees. Several statues by
Park, Lelong Avenue passes Mexican artist Enrique Alferez,
a cluster of massive live Storyland, a beguiling theme including his Women in
oaks, commonly called the park for children, is filled with Huipil and The Flute Player,
Dueling Oaks. all kinds of entertainments stand among live oaks and
Many duels were fought derived from traditional folk other flora.
in New Orleans, and most tales and well-known nursery The Garden Study Center
of these took place in the rhymes. Kids can enjoy Jack and the Pavilion of the Two
bosky acres of what has and Jill’s slide, climb around Sisters are reminiscent of Euro-
since become City Park. Miss Muffet’s spider web, or pean garden architecture. The
Under the massive branches challenge Captain Hook to a Conservatory houses orchids
of live oaks, as many as ten duel. Along the way, they and two major exhibits: Living
duels a day were fought. may also encounter fairytale Fossils, showcasing plants that
Reports indicate that one characters such as Jack (of grew on the earth before flow-
particular dueler called for the Beanstalk), Puss in Boots, ering plants, and the impressive
the use of whaling harpoons, Tropical Rainforest exhibit.
after which the offended Much of the plant collection
party decided he wasn’t so was lost as a result of Hur-
offended after all. The last ricane Katrina, but the
duel was fought in staff have worked
1939 between hard to rebuild
two students the gardens.

The carousel in City Park, one of the oldest enclosed carousels in the United States

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

USNO_118-119_A5 Cat1.indd 118 5/15/08 9:41:51

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 M I D - C I T Y 119

Sports Facilities in
City Park 5
Map 2 A1 B1. Riverfront.
Tel 482-4888. @ 46, 48, 90.
v Canal.
www.neworleanscitypark.com

The majestic City Park contains

many excellent sports facili-
ties. The Wisner Tennis Center
has 34 lighted courts, which
can be reserved by phone
30 days ahead of time. The
Bayou Oaks Golf Club has a
100-tee lighted driving range.
Its three golf courses, however, The Wisner Tennis Center, City Park
were severely damaged by
Hurricane Katrina and have As New Orleans grew, so did St. John. Once a working
yet to reopen to the public. plantations along the bayou plantation, it was carefully
The park’s 8 miles (13 kilo- and a canal was dug, linking moved in the 1960s to this
meters) of lagoons provide it to the downtown, ending in location. In 1810, the house
ample opportunities for boat- Basin Street at Congo Square. was purchased by James
ing, and for fishing for bass Today, the canal is filled in, but Pitot, who had been the
and trout. Egrets, heron, and the name Basin Street survives. second mayor of the city
the occasional alligator also In the 18th and 19th cen- five years earlier. He had
inhabit the lagoons. Fishing turies the bayou was the scene arrived from Haiti in 1796
permits can be obtained at of voodoo ceremonies. Marie after the slave uprising led
the Administrative Center. Laveau (see p83) was the most by Toussaint L’Ouverture.
There is also a stable, offering infamous practitioner. Pitot went on to direct a
riding lessons and trail rides. bank and run the New
Orleans Navigation Company
Pitot House 7 before being appointed to
Bayou St. John 6 a judgeship.
1440 Moss St. Map 2 B2. Tel 482- In 1904, the house was
Map 2 B1. @ 46, 48, 90. 0312. @ 46, 48, 90. v Canal. bought by Mother Cabrini,
v Canal. # 10am–3pm Wed–Sat. ¢ Major who was later to become
hols. & www.pitothouse.org America’s first saint, and con-
The French recognized this verted into a convent. It is
bayou as a key strategic asset, This classic West Indian-style now a museum and contains
providing access to the Gulf of raised house was built in the original antiques and
Mexico via Lake Pontchartrain. 1799, on the banks of Bayou furnishings from the house.

Bayou St. John, where plantations developed a unique way of life

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120 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

New Orleans Museum of Art 1

Together, the New Orleans Museum of Art Third

(NOMA) and the adjacent Sydney and Walda floor
Besthoff Sculpture Garden comprise of one the
most important cultural destinations in the Gulf
South. Housed in a classic Beaux-Arts building,
NOMA’s impressive collections include the
Fabergé gallery; works by Picasso, Degas,
Miró, Rodin, and Pollock; a 7,000-piece
Aztec maize
goddess
photography exhibition; and Asian, African,
and American art. In a beautiful five-acre site,
the sculpture garden showcases pieces by world-renowned
artists, such as Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth.

Stairs to
third floor

. Woman in an Armchair (1960)

Showing the sitter’s face in profile
and from a frontal view, this
Picasso reveals a style derived from
his earlier analytical Cubism. Stairs to
first floor

To sculpture garden

. The Bismark Box (1884)

This beautiful oval box decorated
with gold, diamonds, scarlet guilloché
enamel, and ivory was made by the
Russian jeweler Michael Evlampievich
Perchin at the House of Fabergé.

STAR EXHIBITS
. The Bismark Box Museum
shop
. Reclining Mother
and Child
Art storage
. Woman in an
Armchair First floor

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

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M I D - C I T Y 121

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Melanesian Ancestor Figure
This carved-wood figure from 1 Collins Diboll Circle, City Park.
Map 2 A1. Tel (504) 658-4100.
the Abelan peoples in Papua
@ 46, 48. # noon–8pm Wed,
New Guinea is one of the 10am–5pm Thu–Sun. ¢ public
finest representations of the hols. & 7 0 - 8
religious art of Melanesia.

Lousiana Indians Walking

Along the Bayou (1847)
Alfred Boisseau portrayed the Choctaw
Indians engaged in everyday activities.

Japanese Suit of Armor

Stairs to This 18th-century
third floor Domaru-style one-piece
body armor manifests the
moral and spiritual
traditions of the
Second
Samurai warriors.
floor

GALLERY GUIDE
The main entrance leads to three
European art collections. The
second floor houses the American
Art, the Fabergé, and three further
European collections. The third
floor offers African, Oceanic,
and Native American exhibits.

KEY TO FLOOR PLAN

. Reclining Mother and African and Oceanic Art

Child (1975) American Art
A gift of the Sydney and Asian Art
Walda Besthoff Founda-
tion, this Henry Moore Contemporary Art
sculpture depicts the bond Decorative Arts
between mother and European Art
child.
Prehispanic/Native American Art

Main entrance Photography and Graphics

Stairs to Non-exhibition space

second floor

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122 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

Exploring the New Orleans Museum of Art

The major collections displayed in the museum’s 46
galleries include a vast selection of European art,
from 12th-century Italian Florentine to 20th-century
French and Spanish works. There are specialized
collections of Latin American and Prehispanic art;
Native and modern American works; arts of Africa
and Asia; photography; and decorative arts. The
Sydney and Walda Besthoff Sculpture Garden displays
an eclectic array of works in a landscaped park.

Peale, Benjamin West, and John

AFRICAN AND Singer Sargent. An entire gallery
OCEANIC ART is devoted to a collection of
Louisiana paintings, including
This is one of the finest Louisiana Indians Walking
African art collections Along the Bayou (see p121)
in the country. by Alfred Boisseau, Back of
Established in 1953, Algiers (1870–73) by Richard
it now represents Clague, and Blue Crab and
Sub-Saharan Africa’s Terrapins (1880) by Achille
five major art- Perelli. The Portrait of Mme.
producing regions, René de Gas, née Estelle Musson,
including works by painted in 1872–3 by Edgar
the Baman and Degas during a visit to New
Dogon peoples of Orleans, is also displayed. Portrait of a Bijin (courtesan),
Mali and the Benin, Yamaguchi Soken (1800)
the Yoruba, the Ibo,
and the Ekoi peoples ASIAN ART has ceramics from the
of Nigeria, Cameroon, Neolithic to the modern
and the Ivory Coast. One of the finest collections era. There are stone, wood,
Among the high- of Edo (1600–1868) Japanese and bronze sculptures,
lights is a rare palace paintings can be seen in plus miniatures, and
veranda post carved these galleries. All the major religious art from India.
Yoruba in the shape of an Japanese schools are repre-
mounted equestrian warrior sented, and it is particularly
warrior figure by Yoruba strong on the Nanga, Zenga, CONTEMPORARY ART
artist Olowe of Ise. and Maruyama-Shijo schools.
Another gem is a terra-cotta The collection also includes A great variety of sculpture,
head from the Nok culture a wide variety of ceramics, paintings, and mixed- media
dating from around 500 BC– lacquer, textiles, prints, works, such as Joseph
AD 200. The Head of an photographs, and armor. Cornell’s intricate small-scale
Oba (late 18th century) is The Chinese collection shadow boxes, are included
a striking bronze funerary in the Contemporary
portrait, which might have Art collection, which is
been placed on an altar in divided into Contem-
the Benin royal palace to porary European Art
commemorate the deceased. and the American Art
The Oceania gallery exhibits. The European
includes wooden figures from collection features
Papua New Guinea; nephrite works from such artists
(a hard green jade-like stone) as Miró and Picasso.
weapons, tools, and ornaments The American exhibit
from the Maoris; and a stand- ranges from Georgia
ing Malanggan figure, also O’ Keefe’s My Back
from New Zealand. Yard (1937) and Hans
Hofmann’s Abstraction
with Chair and Miró
AMERICAN ART (1943), to Jackson
Pollock’s Composition
This collection includes (White, Black, Blue,
some fine examples of and Red on White)
early American artists such (1948) and Roger
as John Singleton Copley, Brown’s California
Gilbert Stuart, Charles Willson Portrait of a Young Girl, Joan Miró (1935) Hillside (1988).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

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M I D - C I T Y 123

represented in the adjacent

DECORATIVE ARTS Forgotston Gallery.
Other highlights include
The museum has a fabulous gems such as Picasso’s
glass collection consisting Woman with Tambourine
of more than 6,000 items, (1938), Miró’s Lady Stroll-
including ancient glass and ing on the Rambla in Bar-
Tiffany vases. The pottery celona (1925), Degas’
collection features a large Dancer in Green (1878),
group of pieces from New Rodin’s The Age of Bronze
Orleans’ own Newcomb (1876), and works by other
Pottery. There is also a rare European masters.
collection of “Old Paris”
porcelain, plus examples of
Sevres and Limoges. The PREHISPANIC/ Native American kachina dolls
silver collection contains NATIVE AMERICAN ART representing a family (1958)
some lustrous pieces by
English silversmith Paul Storr. These galleries display a
strong collection of material PHOTOGRAPHY AND
from Mayan culture, including GRAPHICS
EUROPEAN ART some impressive sculptures
and ceramics. Artifacts from This collection of more
The European collection Central American than 7,000 vintage photo-
spans a period of cultures are also graphs is one of the finest
600 years and fea- represented, such of its kind in the Southeast.
tures examples as Olmec and It includes works by all the
from the major Mixtec, along with known masters, such as
national schools. the later Aztec William Henry Fox Talbot’s
The Kress Collec- civilization. View of the Paris Boulevards
tion, donated to the The Native American (1843), André Kertész’s
museum by the Ameri- collections include Théâtre Odeon (1926), Man
can philanthropist Kachina dolls from the Ray’s Portrait of Berenice
Samuel H. Kress, Hopi and Zuni, pottery Abbott in front of Man Ray
includes sublime from the Acoma Santo Composition (1922), and
Italian Old Master Domingo and San Diane Arbus’s A Young
paintings from the Morning Glory Ildefonso pueblos, Brooklyn Family Going on
early Renaissance Tiffany vase Apache and Pima a Sunday Outing (1966). In
to the 18th century. baskets, and Percé his 1946 Elegy for the Old
French art is also well repre- beadwork and textiles from South (No. 6), Clarence
sented, with works from the the northwest coast. John Laughlin captures the
17th to the 20th centuries. The museum also has a nostalgia of the old South in
The Hyams Gallery features special collection of Latin surrealistic images of decay.
lesser-known 19th-century American colonial art, His photographs of aban-
Salon and Barbizon painters, much of it from Cuzco in doned plantation homes and
in contrast with the more Peru. It includes an early the South in the early 20th
familiar Impressionist and 18th-century portrait of an century are justly famous.
Post-Impressionist painters archangel with a musket.

SCULPTURE GARDEN

The dynamic sculptures

of Henry Moore, Barbara
Hepworth, Louis Bourgeois,
George Segal, and other
renowned artists are displayed
among the ancient oaks, mag-
nolias, and tranquil lagoons
of the Sydney and Walda
Besthoff Sculpture Garden.
This five-acre site, adjacent
to the museum building,
was opened in 2003 to
provide a beautiful natural
space for more than 50
modern and contemporary
sculptures. Visitors are free to
wander around the park, or
The Cardinal’s Friendly Chat, Jehan Georges Vibert (1880) join one of the daily tours.
Miniature train passing through the oaks at City Park

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 126 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

until March 1873. Degas

was charmed with America
and especially New Orleans.
Several important paintings
evolved from his sojourn here,
despite the fact that he did not
venture far from the house
for fear of the intense New
Orleans sun affecting his
eyesight. The Cotton Buyer’s
Office (1873) shows his uncle
with several members of his
family, including the artist’s
own brothers René and
Some of the city’s most poignant tombs at St. Louis Cemetery #3 Achille, who both worked
in the cotton business.
where the famous “quadroon The Esplanade house,
St. Louis balls” were held. Lafon also which dates from 1854, has
Cemetery #3 8 sponsored an orphanage for Greek Revivial details and
African American children. cast-iron balconies. The house
3421 Esplanade Ave. is beautifully maintained
Map 2 B1. Tel 482-5065. throughout and offers bed
@ 48, 90. # 8am–4:30pm daily. Fair Grounds 9 and breakfast accommoda-
¢ Mardi Gras. tions (see p167), as well as
1751 Gentilly Blvd. Map 2 C1. welcoming visitors during the
This pristine cemetery, with Tel 944-5515. @ 48. & 7 day. Many reproductions of
its beautiful wrought-iron www.fgno.com Degas’ work are on display.
gates, opened in 1856. Among
the notables buried here is In the mid-1800s, New Orleans
Antoine Michoud, the original was a leading center for horse Cypress Grove
owner of a plantation which racing. The Creole Racecourse
is now the site of the NASA operated during the 19th Cemetery q
plant where the Saturn rockets century on what is now the
were built in the 1960s. There Fair Grounds. When Metairie 120 City Park Ave. Map 1 C2.
is also a memorial to architect Racecourse closed, the Tel 482-3232. @ 40, 46.
James Gallier, Sr. (see p95) Louisiana Jockey Club # 8am–4:30pm daily. 7
and his wife, who are buried took over and purchased
in Metairie Cemetery. Both the Luling Mansion This cemetery, established
were killed when the steamer on Esplanade as a by the Firemen’s Charitable
Evening Star sank en route clubhouse. The name Association, was laid
from New York to New change occurred out in 1841. The
Orleans in October 1866. when the Fair Grounds impressive Egyptian-
Other famous New Orleans Corporation took over style gate leads into
figures here include Father in 1940. Races are a graveyard filled with
Rouquette, missionary to the run here from handsome memorials.
Choctaw, and black philan- November to March, Many of the tombs are
thropist Thomy Lafon, owner and in April the Fair dedicated to individual
of the old Orleans Ballroom, Grounds host the firefighters, such as
New Orleans Jazz Irad Ferry, who
Fest (see p41). The lost their lives in
clubhouse lost its roof Marble statue at the line of duty.
to Hurricane Katrina Cypress Grove Ferry’s tomb, which
but reopened in 2007. features a broken
column, was designed by
the famous architect J. N. B.
Degas House 0 de Pouilly (see p83).
The cemetery also contains
2306 Esplanade Ave. Map 3 D3. a large number of rich Protes-
Tel 821-5009. @ 48. tants, who were buried here
# by appointment only. after Girod Cemetery began to
& 8 www.degashouse.com deteriorate. Many of the tombs
have remarkable ironwork, like
Calling himself “almost a son the weeping cupid gate which
of Louisiana,” Impressionist is crowned with lovebirds and
painter Edgar Degas (1834– set between inverted torches.
1917) visited his uncle, Michel An extension to Cypress
Period furniture in the dining room Musson (see p107), at this Grove was built right across
at Degas House house from October 1872 the street to fulfil a need for
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

USNO_126-127_A5 Cat2.indd 126 5/15/08 9:53:56

5:25:34 AM
PM
 M I D - C I T Y 127

space after the yellow fever Captain Cooley, who ran

epidemic of 1853. Known as several steamboats until his
Greenwood Cemetery, it was death in 1931. Other deni-
the first in New Orleans to zens include P. B. S. Pinch-
be built without a boundary back, a free man of color
wall. It is the site of the city’s who became Louisiana’s
first Civil War Memorial. only black governor in
1872–3, and William C. C.
Claiborne (see p17), first
Metairie governor of Louisiana.
Cemetery w David C. Hennessy, the
police chief who was
5100 Pontchartrain Blvd. Map 1 B1. assassinated in 1891, also
Tel 486-6331. @ 40, 46. has an impressive tomb.
# 8am–5pm daily. 7

This is the most attractively Longue Vue House

landscaped cemetery in New and Gardens e
Orleans, and the final resting Egan Family tomb, modeled after
place of many of its blue- the ruins of an Irish chapel 7 Bamboo Road. Map 1 A2.
bloods. In the 19th century, Tel 488-5488. @ 34, 39.
the city was the premier Moriarty was an Irish immigrant # 10am–4:30pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
venue for horseracing, and and saloonkeeper who had Sun. ¢ public hols. & 8 7 =
the Metairie Racetrack was succeeded financially but was www.longuevue.com
the most famous. After the scorned socially. He was
Civil War, mismanagement determined to avenge his Cotton broker Edgar Stern
afforded Charles T. Howard wife, Mary, and designed and his wife Edith Rosenwald,
the opportunity to take this tomb so that in death heiress to the Sears fortune,
revenge on the racetrack she could look down on all established this estate between
members who had refused those who had snubbed her. 1939 and 1942. The interiors
him admission. He purchased The tomb of legendary are exquisitely decorated with
it in 1872 and converted it madam Josie Arlington bears antiques, Oriental carpets and
into a cemetery. The oval a bas-relief of a young girl fine art, including works by
racecourse became the knocking on a door. Or- Jean Arp, Pablo Picasso, and
cemetery’s main drive. phaned at the age of four, Barbara Hepworth. The gar-
Many magnificent tombs Josie went into business for dens, which contain 23 foun-
are located here, and near herself as a teenager. She tains created by Ellen Biddle,
the entrance stands the became a notorious whore are exceptional examples of
massive 85-ft (26-m) high and brawler, and once bit landscape design. The largest
Moriarty monument, which off half an ear and the lower garden is modeled on Spain’s
required the laying of a lip of a fellow prostitute. 14th-century Alhambra gar-
special railroad to bring it A large bell from his boat dens; others are inspired by
into the cemetery. Daniel America marks the grave of French and English designs.

One of Ellen Biddle’s fountains gracing the gardens of Longue Vue House

USNO_126-127_A5 Cat2.indd 127 5/15/08 9:53:56

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USNO_128-129_Walk Intro.indd 128 5/15/08 10:03:35 AM
 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A 129

THREE GUIDED WALKS

T hese three walks take

visitors through landmark
districts and also into the
heart of elegant residential areas
that showcase the unique
distinctive cemetery, circling
around a lesser-known
waterway, the Bayou St. John.
The third walk heads uptown to
the Lower Garden District, a
make-up of New Orleans’ diverse and bustling area full of
historic neighborhoods. The interesting shops, historic
walk along the Mississippi churches, and fine architecture,
riverfront has sweeping views of Garden District with literary connections. In
the city, and the short ferry ride ironwork detail addition, each of the five
to Old Algiers Point provides a neighborhoods covered in the
fascinating glimpse of the workings of Area by Area section of this book has
this powerful natural waterway. The a walk marked on its Street-by-Street
Faubourg St. John walk explores an map. Several organizations also offer
area with deep historic ties to the guided walks through the French
city’s colonial origins, with its French Quarter, Garden District, and other
West Indies-style raised houses and areas in the city (see pp198–9).

CHOOSING A WALK
The Three Walks Faubourg
This map shows the location of the St. John
three guided walks in relation to (pp134–5)
the main sightseeing areas
of New Orleans.

-ID#ITY

Mansion on Esplanade Avenue,

Faubourg St. John
,OWER&RENCH
1UARTER

5PPER&RENCH
1UARTER
Mississippi
Riverfront
(pp130–31) 7AREHOUSE
AND#"$

Steam boat
Natchez 'ARDEN$ISTRICT
AND5PTOWN
J

JQQ
T JTT
.JT

KEY
Walk route
Lower Garden
District
0 kilometres 4 (pp132–3)
St. Charles Avenue
0 miles 2 streetcar

An elegant residence on Esplanade Avenue

USNO_128-129_Walk Intro.indd 129 5/15/08 10:04:18

10:03:48 AM
 130 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

A Walk Around the Mississippi Riverfront

New Orleans owes its very existence to the Mississippi
River, one of the world’s great waterways and an iconic
feature on the cultural, historic, and economic land-
scape of America. This walk provides superb vistas
from both sides of the river, explores a portion of the
levee system and, thanks to a free ferry ride, gives you
a chance to experience its swirling waters up close.

Cannon, Washington
Artillery Park 1

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The steam boat Natchez, crossing the wide Mississippi River 4 

Jackson Square reach the Moonwalk 2, a

to the Aquarium paved walkway named for

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. J T T J T T J Q Q
1"3,

Park 1 (see p77). This raised Maurice “Moon” Landrieu.
platform features a 19th- Take the set of steps leading 
century cannon and has down to the water. This is
excellent views of Jackson a popular place for visitors
Square (see p54) and the river. to watch passing vessels,
Descend the stairs on the while street musicians Y
river side of the platform and performing for tips add to
cross the railroad tracks to the ambience. Follow the
Moonwalk upriver (toward
TIPS FOR WALKERS Canal Street), passing the
Jax Brewery 3, which at 
Starting point: Washington one time was the largest
Artillery Park near Jackson Square. brewery in the South and
Length: 1 mile (1.6 km), plus the is now a shopping mall.
ferry ride You also pass the berth
Getting there: The riverfront $" 
for the Steamboat Natchez /"-
45 
area is within easy walking 4 (see pp 64–5), a paddle
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distance of downtown or French wheeler that offers river 
Quarter hotels. The Riverfront trips and enlivens the
1- %& '3

streetcar also runs along here. riverfront with music from

Stopping-off points: The its steam calliope prior to
renovated Jackson Brewery has a each departure. Just
coffee shop and food court. There upriver is Woldenberg
are many outdoor vendors in the Riverfront Park 5 (see
Spanish Plaza near the Canal p88), named for a local
Street ferry terminal. Adjacent philanthropist. Once occupied
to the plaza is the Riverwalk by rusting river warehouses,
Marketplace, which has a large the park now provides an
food court with a branch of the open green area that’s
famous Café du Monde (see p76 popular for picnics, outdoor
and p176). Across the river in games, and jogging, as well
Algiers, drop into the Dry Dock as a bandstand. The park
Café and Bar opposite the ferry is also the setting for a
terminal for gumbo, or “po’boys” collection of sculptures
and plenty of atmosphere. and monuments, including Monument to the Immigrant,
the white marble Monument Woldenberg Riverfront Park 5

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 T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 131

to the Immigrant and the Algiers terminal, turn

city’s Holocaust memorial. left and follow the
Coast Guard cutters or trail of crushed shells
tugboats often temporarily that top the grassy
tie up along this stretch of levee. This manmade
the river, giving walkers a embankment is part
close-up view of the vessels. of a system of levees
Just past Woldenberg Park along thousands of
is the Audubon Aquarium of miles of riverfront that
the Americas (see pp90–91) protects communities
and Entergy IMAX Theater from the Mississippi’s
6. This area is filled with floodwaters. On the
whimsical sculptures of marine right, you can see the
life, shady park benches, and Algiers Courthouse 0,
outdoor vendors serving a grand Romanesque
refreshments. Revival structure built in
1896 after a devastating
Canal Street ferry to The façade of St. Louis Cathedral fire wiped out much of
Old Algiers Point the neighborhood.
Next to the aquarium is the mosaics of Spanish coats of Looking toward the river, you
terminal for the John James arms. The ferry ride is brief can watch huge ships from
Audubon 7 (see p217), a but offers excellent views around the globe make the
state-run of the New Orleans skyline, dramatic hairpin turn round
St. Louis Cathedral (see Algiers Point. This curve in
the river may have suggested
one of New Orleans’ more
enduring nicknames, the
Crescent City.
3% Follow the levee path for
4 0/ about 500 m (1,640 ft), then
5&3
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ing the gigantic cruise tinctive architecture. At the

ships berthed just upriver. end you reach Bouny Street,
The ferry docks in Old Algiers turn right here and continue
Point 9, a village established up the levee to the ferry
0 meters 300
in 1719. After leaving the terminal for the return trip.
0 yards 300

KEY
Walk route
v Streetcar stop

4 Ferry boarding point

commuter ferry providing

free rides for foot passengers
across the Mississippi. If the
ferry is not in dock at the
terminal, you could use the
waiting time to explore the
adjacent Spanish Plaza 8 (see
p88). Dedicated in 1976, the
plaza was a gift from Spain in
a gesture of friendship to its
one-time colony and features
a fountain ringed by tile The fountain at the center of the Spanish Plaza 8

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132 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

A Walk Around the Lower Garden District

The Lower Garden District offers visitors a diverse
sampling of the ethnic, historical, and economic
dynamics at work in the area through the last two
centuries. Although this area is not as opulent as the
neighboring Garden District (see pp100–1), it has seen
a tremendous amount of revitalization since the 1990s.
The walk takes you past buildings with fascinating
histories, ornate churches, an antebellum mansion,
and a cut-down Eiffel Tower.
blocks toward the
river to Coliseum
Park 2, an irregular
space that was laid
out in 1806. The
park’s name refers to
an outdoor arena that Interior of St. Mary’s Assumption 5
was planned here
but never realized. proximity for separate Irish
Follow the path and German parishes during
along Camp Street the immigration boom of the
beneath the mid-19th century. The Irish
spreading branches worshipped at St. Alphonsus
of oak trees for three 4, located on the left side of

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blocks and turn left the street. Now deconsecrated,

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on Race Street. St. Alphonsus is open as an

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Magazine Street. Thursday, and Saturday)

to view its frescoes,



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St. Charles Avenue fuses the old with the new a sweeping structure early Irish
with fanciful wrought- experience
Coliseum Square to iron balconies 3. The inn in New

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For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp166–7 and pp180–82

USNO_132-133 Garden#95B3F4.indd 132 15/4/08 10:14:22

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T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 133

American Confederacy, died

in 1889. One block up at No.
1239 7 (see p107), is the
Brevard-Wisdom-Rice House,
the private home previously
owned by novelist Anne Rice
and used as a setting for her
book The Witching Hour.
Continue walking three
blocks to St. Charles Avenue
and turn right. This avenue is
the main route for Mardi Gras
parades (see pp28–9) and, if
you look up, the remnants of
colorful beads thrown from
the floats can often be seen
tangled in the branches of
the oaks along the street.
One block down, at No.
2220 St. Charles Avenue, is
Former home of Anne Rice, a prominent New Orleans author 7 the House of Broel 8, an
antebellum mansion that is
It was consecrated on the open to the public for tours.
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beatified by the Church in information on tours,

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2000. The shrine houses his restaurants, and attractions
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remains, a collection of across the city. Outside, at

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religious art, and a gift shop. the corner of St. Andrew

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First Street to St. Charles the return trip downtown and

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& $&
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continue for three blocks past

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0 meters 300
on 1st Street, one of the first
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streets in the Garden District

0 yards 300

proper. On the left, at No.

45

KEY 1134, is the privately-owned

Walk route Payne-Strachan House 6
v Streetcar stop
(see p107), where Jefferson Louis Armstrong statue, outside the
Davis, president of the New Orleans Visitors’ Bureau 0

USNO_132-133 Garden#95B3F4.indd 133 15/4/08 10:14:22

5/15/08 10:27:07 AM
 134 N E W O R L E A N S A R E A B Y A R E A

A 90-Minute Walk Around the Faubourg St. John

This walk circles a portion of Bayou St. John, an
historically strategic waterway where some of the
city’s earliest colonial development took place. It also
showcases a beautiful residential neighborhood with
original Creole mansions and the distinctive above-
ground St. Louis Cemetery #3. The area is easily
accessible from downtown via the Canal streetcar and
is close to the attractions in City Park (see pp116–17).

A view of the altar, Our Lady of the

Holy Rosary church 0

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Around the Bayou this waterway to

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Mighty Creole” (see p71), who connected the early

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directed the opening battle of trading posts on the

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the Civil War at Fort Sumter Mississippi River with P 

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in South Carolina. Cross N. Lake Pontchartrain and
Carrollton Avenue to the the Gulf of Mexico. Later,
&& /
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Esplanade Avenue bridge the bayou was extended 

45 *-
8

and, once across, turn right to the French Quarter by

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sidewalk or the grassy footpath filled. Today, the bayou is " 3

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around the bend of Bayou an informal recreational area.
& 5

St. John (see p119). Local The banks of the waterway

4 5 3

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Choctaw Indians first showed have also historically been 4

45

connected with voodoo

4 4

TIPS FOR WALKERS worship (see p83), including

44

those led by Marie Laveau in

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Circle, at the gates of City Park. %

voodoo practice is 6
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Street, take the Canal streetcar 

practitioners still

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marked City Park to the end of congregate at Bayou

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the line. RTA bus #48 runs from St. John on holidays,
4

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N. Rampart Street at Esplanade 

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especially St. John’s

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many casual and upscale

centuries French colonists

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restaurants and cafés clustered built country homes in this

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around Esplanade Avenue and area and these can still be

"
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Ponce de Leon Street, including seen in the French West

the French bistro Café Degas, the Indies-style houses here. An
Fair Grinds Coffeehouse, and La outstanding example is Pitot KEY
Boulangerie French Bakery. House 2 (see p119), a Creole Walk route
raised country house that is
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp167–8 and pp183–4

USNO_134-135 Faubourg.Indd 134 5/15/08

5/16/08 10:16:24
8:52:50 AM
 T H R E E G U I D E D WA L K S 135

now a museum. Named for

James Pitot, New Orleans’
first American mayor,
construction of the house
started in 1799. It is filled
with period antiques, and
offers a glimpse of life in early
19th-century New Orleans.
Next to Pitot House is
Cabrini High School 3, a
private school named for
Mother Frances Cabrini who
had originally established
an orphanage on the spot
in 1905. Mother Cabrini
later became America’s
first canonized saint. One of several impressive Victorian mansions on Esplanade Avenue 7
Cross the bayou on the
steel pedestrian bridge 4 good places to sit and admire centuries. If you would like
directly across from the the wildlife and views. Fish a break, on Ponce de Leon
school, then turn left to often leap from the water Street 8 you will come
wander along the grassy after insects and, in the across a cluster of charming
bank of the bayou until cooler months, the restaurants, cafés, and small
you arrive at the next bridge bayou attracts large boutiques. Near here, each
located at Dumaine Street 5. pelicans, which plunge spring, the New Orleans
*4 Take the bridge to the other down dramatically Jazz and Heritage Fest is
3: side of the bayou and turn to scoop their held at the Fair Grounds
left again, continuing along own meals from Race Course 9 (see pp41
the opposite bank. Small the water. and 126). Two blocks
concrete embankments further on, on the left, is
and steps here- From Ursulines to Our Lady of the Holy
7 abouts provide Esplanade Rosary 0, a Catholic
&
Strolling on along church built in 1925
453&&5

Moss Street, turn right An angel at

with Classical col-
 
on Bell Street, which prayer, St. Louis umns and a dome
. : 4 5 & 3 :

becomes Ursulines cemetery q that’s visible from

Street 6 after one the bayou. One
. " 6 3 & 1 " 4
4 5 3 & & 5
block. This broad block further up
avenue, named for the order on the right, is St. Louis
& of nuns who came to New Cemetery #3 q (see p126),
4 Orleans from France in which has well-maintained
1  1 0 / $ &
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surrounding Avenue, crossing Bayou St.



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the bayou were John again, to end the walk

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& drained. Today, back at Beauregard Circle.
3 &

40
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beautiful homes
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3
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to Esplanade Avenue
7. Turn left here
and walk up this
impressive avenue,
0 meters 200 with its mansions that
were built in the late Ursulines Street corner, an area full of
0 yards 200 19th and early 20th picturesque charm 6

Old oaks line the road to Oak Alley Plantation

USNO_134-135 Faubourg.Indd 135 5/15/08

5/16/08 10:16:24
8:52:55 AM
USNO_136-137 intro.indd 136 5/15/08 10:22:53 AM
 BEYOND
NEW ORLEANS

EXPLORING BEYOND NEW ORLEANS 140141

LOWER MISSISSIPPI PLANTATIONS 142145
BATON ROUGE 146147
UPPER MISSISSIPPI PLANTATIONS 148151
CAJUN COUNTRY 152157

USNO_136-137 intro.indd 137 5/15/08 10:23:44

10:22:59 AM
USNO_138-139 intro6.indd 138 5/15/08 10:25:40 AM
 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S 139

BEYOND NEW ORLEANS

T
he countryside around New Orleans is a land full of history
and tradition. The beautiful plantations of the Mississippi
River, Baton Rouge (the capital of Louisiana), and the famous
Cajun Country are full of cultural and entertainment interest.
Venturing beyond New Orleans allows you to experience the unique
mixture of Louisiana’s cultures in all their various accents.
The lifeblood of New Orleans was, Governor’s Mansion. Other sights
and still is, the Mississippi River. In include the Rural Life Museum, the
the 18th and 19th centuries, the World War II destroyer the USS
river banks were lined with large Kidd, and the Louisiana State
plantations producing all kinds University. To the west of Baton
of commodities, including sugar, Rouge lie the massive Atchafalaya
tobacco, and cotton, which Swamp and Cajun Country.
were shipped around the The latter is famous for its
world via New Orleans. Francophone culture, Cajun
Today only a handful of plan- and zydeco music, and its
tation homes survive along robust, spicy cuisine. Visitors
the River Road, but many are can explore Cajun culture in
open to visitors, and some a number of towns in this
Sculpture at the
offer accommodation. Louisiana State Capitol
area – Eunice, Lafayette, and
Prior to Hurricane Katrina, Opelousas – as well as along
the state capital, Baton Rouge, had a the bayous of New Iberia, and Avery
population of about 600,000; Island. To get a feel for life on the
however, as people resettled away bayous, you can attend a fais do-do
from low-lying areas, numbers rose to (dance), try the local cuisine, or tour
close to 700,000. An oil-refining center, the McIlhenny Tabasco Sauce Factory.
Baton Rouge has several attractions For an insight into the Cajun way of
associated with its role in state life, visitors can drift among age-old
government, including the State cypress trees in the swamps, or visit
Capitol, the Old State Capitol, and the museums and historic villages.

Original Cajun house in the Acadian Village near Lafayette

St. John the Evangelist cathedral in Lafayette

USNO_138-139 intro6.indd 139 5/15/08 10:26:09

10:25:43 AM
 140 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Exploring Beyond New Orleans

An excursion to the bayous and small towns a few
hours away from New Orleans will show visitors just
how different the city is from its Louisiana surround-
ings. Upriver, the Cajun heritage is evident in the
architectural styles, the food, and even the language,
since French is spoken almost everywhere. Only a few
hours’ drive from New Orleans, it is possible to visit
more than a dozen Creole and American plantations
along the Mississippi River and to get a taste of life as it
used to be. The city of Baton Rouge, the state capital,
makes an interesting modern counterpoint.
Vermilionville
KEY SEE ALSO This restored 19th-century
Interstate highway • Where to Stay pp144–7 Cajun-Creole settlement
State highway
is peopled by costumed
• Where to Eat pp156–61
staff. Traditional ways
Major road of life are enacted.
Main railway 611&3
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This is a fully reassembled Cajun bayou
community, with houses boasting
traditional Cajun furnishings.

GETTING AROUND
All of the sights can be reached easily
by road from New Orleans. Interstate 10
(I-10) connects the city directly to Baton
Rouge. Some exits from route I-10 also
lead to the River Road Plantations and to
Cajun Country. From New Orleans, several
guided tours to the bayous are available
(see p221), which offer a convenient way Cajun Music Hall of Fame, Eunice
to explore life on the bayous. A country store dating from the 1930s now
houses a museum of local music.

For additional map symbols see back flap

USNO_140-141 A6 picmap new.indd 140 5/15/08 11:17:18

16/5/08 10:29:54 AM
 E X P L O R I N G B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S 141

Nottoway
Built in 1859, Neo-Classical Nottoway Planta-
tion has 64 rooms. Today it operates as a bed
and breakfast and has a fine restaurant.
Old State Capitol, Baton Rouge
This Gothic Revival castle, built
in 1847, was burned by the
3` ( Union Army and repaired in
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of local history.
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Baton Rouge 2
Eunice 4
Lafayette 6
Lower Mississippi Plantations 1
New Iberia and Avery Island 8
Opelousas 5 Swamp canal near Baton Rouge
St. Martinville 7 Numerous canals cross the swamps, providing
Upper Mississippi Plantations 3 access to the area.

USNO_140-141 A6 picmap new.indd 141 5/15/08 11:17:19

16/5/08 10:29:56 AM
 142 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Lower Mississippi Plantations 1

The River Road meanders along

both banks of the Mississippi River,
changing route numbers as it goes.
It runs behind the levee, past petro-
chemical plants, towering live oaks
Old plantation
water pump
draped with Spanish moss, and
magnificent plantation homes. Creole
families once owned and operated the plantations
located between New Orleans and Baton Rouge.
Some of the old plantation residences have been Restored Plantations
given a new lease on life as small museums. Many plantations are carefully
restored and are open to the public
as bed and breakfast hotels.
Baton Rouge





• GONZALES



•
Nottoway DONALDSONVILLE
The largest plantation in the 
area, Nottoway boasts an
impressive 65 rooms. 

i
ip p
iss
ss
Mi
La
fo
urc
he

Houma
0 kilometers 20

Houmas House 0 miles 10

The country’s largest sugar

plantation in the 19th century,
this grand house now displays a
fine antiques collection.

Madewood Plantation
This Greek Revival style plantation
house is one of the best preserved in the
area and is also a bed and breakfast.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5

USNO 142-143 A6 Feat1 f/map.indd142 142 5/15/08

5/16/08 10:33:58
8:58:29 AM
 L O W E R M I S S I S S I P P I P L A N T A T I O N S 143

NEW ORLEANS •

LOCATOR MAP

Oak Alley
A glorious double row of live oak trees lines the
drive to this mansion, which was built in 1836.

s
Pas

hac
Manc
Lake
Maurepas

Am
ite

Lake
 Pontchartrain

San Francisco
“Steamboat Gothic” style
New
is displayed in all its

Orleans glory at this plantation.
• LA PLACE

i
ip p
iss 

Lac Des
Allemandes

Houma Laura
The slaves who worked this typical Creole-
style plantation are the source for the
Brer Rabbit folktales.

Destrehan
This French-style KEY
mansion was Freeway
constructed with Major road
a combination of
wood and brick. Minor road

USNO 142-143 A6 Feat1 f/map.indd143 143 5/15/08

5/16/08 10:33:58
8:58:32 AM
 144 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Exploring Lower Mississippi Plantations Bougere. The grounds of

the original plantation have
By 1850, two-thirds of America’s millionaires lived been reduced by several
on plantations located along the Great River Road. levee setbacks over the years,
The economic relationship between the plantations’ and so today it stands very
production and the trade from New Orleans to the close to the road.
rest of the world made it one of the wealthiest regions
P Laura
of the nation. The treasures of this glory are displayed 2247 Hwy 18, Vacherie. Tel (225)
in homes from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, with 265-7690. # 10am–4pm daily.
colorful French and Spanish Creole architecture and ¢ major holidays. & 8
beautiful natural surroundings. Revolutionary War veteran
Guillame Duparc was given
a large land grant and built
the classic raised Creole
plantation house in 1805.
After Duparc died, four
generations of women ran
the plantation. In 1891, Laura
Locoul sold the property in
order to marry and move with
her husband to St. Louis.
The plantation gained
notoriety for the stories told
by the French-speaking
slaves, later tenant farmers,
living there. Folklorist Alcée
Fortier first translated these
Senegalese stories about Brer
Rabbit, which later inspired
Joel Chandler Harris’s Uncle
Remus and Brer Rabbit books.
Destrehan plantation In 2004 the main house was
devastated by fire. It has now
E Destrehan and exquisite faux marbling been meticulously rebuilt
13034 River Rd, Destrehan. Tel (985) and graining. Commissioned under the guidance of archi-
764-9315. # 9am–4pm daily. by Edmond’s son, Valsin, and tectural historians, and guided
¢ major holidays. 8 & 7 his daughter-in-law during tours are offered.
Charles Pacquet, a free man major renovations in 1860,
of color, built this home for they were so expensive that P Oak Alley
Robert de Logny in 1787. The Valsin named the house Saint 3645 Hwy 18, Vacherie. Tel (225)
original Creole cottage was Frusquin, from the French 265-2151. # 9am–4pm daily (to
modified in 1810 and 1840. sans fruscins, meaning 5pm Sat, Sun). ¢ Dec 25, Jan 1,
Union troops housed freed “without a penny.” The name Mardi Gras, Thanksgiving. 8 &
slaves here during the Civil eventually became corrupted 7 www.oakalleyplantation.com
War (see pp18–19). to “San Francisco.” Valsin died Oak Alley’s name comes from
before he could enjoy the the 28 magnificent live oaks
E San Francisco house he had imagined, and that line the entrance to this
Hwy 44, River Rd, Garyville. Tel (985) shortly after the Civil War his plantation home. They were
535-5450. # 10am–4pm daily. widow sold it to a Colonel planted about 300 years ago,
¢ Dec 25, Jan 1, Mardi Gras, Easter,
Thanksgiving. & 8
The term “Steamboat Gothic”
has been applied to this ornate
plantation home built for
Edmond Bozonier Marmillion
in 1856. Originally it was
painted in flamboyant purples,
blues, and greens, and the
structure was decorated with
plenty of ornate grillwork
and gingerbread trim. The
interiors feature some
splendid ceiling paintings
completed by Dominique
Canova (cousin of the famous
sculptor) featuring cherubs,
trailing vines, flying parrots, San Francisco plantation, the ultimate in “Steamboat Gothic” style

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5

USNO_144-145_A6 feat 1 f/o.indd 144 5/15/08 10:36:26

10:36:05 AM
 L O W E R M I S S I S S I P P I P L A N T A T I O N S 145

to give the illusion of masonry.

In 1964 New Orleans preser-
vationist Naomi Marshall
saved the house from ruins
after it lay neglected for years.
She and her family then spent
thirteen years restoring the
building and grounds. It now
serves as a year-round bed-
and-breakfast inn, and the site
for many events, such as clas-
sical music recitals, local art
fairs, and holiday celebrations.

E Houmas House
40136 Hwy 942, River Rd, Darrow.
Tel (225) 473-7841. # 9am–5pm
Mon–Tue, 9am–8pm Wed–Sun.
The Great White Ballroom at Nottoway plantation ¢ Dec 25, Jan 1. & 8
With its grand two-story
even before the house was gunboat officer, who asked verandas and monumental
built for Jacques Telesphore that it be spared because he Tuscan columns, Houmas
Roman III in 1837. The house had once been a guest of the House is one of the
and grounds are so striking Randolphs. It now operates most recognizable
that it has been used as a as a bed and breakfast. plantation villas
location for several movies, in the South. As
including The Long Hot E Madewood well as sprawling
Summer (1985) and Interview 4250 Hwy 308, Napoleonville. gardens, there is
with the Vampire (1994). A Tel (985) 369-7151 or (800) 375- also a second
slave gardener developed 7151. # 10am–4pm daily. ¢ Dec house, a two-story
the first commercial variety 25, Jan 1, Thanksgiving. 8 & French Colonial-era
of pecan nut, the “Paper Built in the prosperous times structure, which
Shell,” on the property. of pre-Civil War Louisiana, is attached to the
Madewood is unusual among main house by
E Nottoway south Louisiana plantation a carriageway.
30970 Hwy 405, White Castle. houses. It is a classic Greek The main house, Embroidery
Tel (225) 545-6884. Revival house, uninflu- dating from 1840, stand
# 9am–5pm daily. enced by the raised is furnished in
¢ Dec 25. 8 & Creole villa style that high antebellum style with
This is the largest predominates in the a fine collection of period
plantation on this region. It was the first antiques. It survived the Civil
stretch of the significant building War because its Irish owner,
Mississippi. It was by architect Henry John Burnside, claimed
designed by architect Howard and erected immunity as a British subject.
Henry Howard to Antique clock between 1840–48 for A wealthy merchant, Burnside
accommodate John at Nottoway sugar planter Thomas amassed several sugar mills
Hampden Randolph, Pugh using construc- and at the end of the 19th
his wife, and a family of tion materials from his hold- century, this plantation was
11 children, and completed ings. Bricks for the exterior producing as much as 20
in 1859. Randolph was a were made on the plantation million pounds (9 million kg)
wealthy sugar planter and then covered with stucco of sugar each year.
originally from Virginia. The
mansion occupies 53,000 sq ft
(18,000 sq m), with 64 rooms,
16 fireplaces, 200 windows,
and 165 doors. At the time
it was built, it incorporated
some innovative conveniences
such as indoor plumbing, gas
lighting, and coal fireplaces.
In the Great White Ballroom,
which is 65 ft (22 m) long,
seven of Randolph’s daughters
celebrated their weddings. It
is the largest and most impres-
sive room in the house. It
survived the Civil War due to
the intervention of a Union Houmas House, a fine example of Greek Revival style

USNO_144-145_A6 feat 1 f/o.indd 145 5/15/08 10:36:27

10:36:08 AM
 146 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Baton Rouge 2 and Devices. The collections

at the Museum of Natural
In 1719, the French established Baton Rouge Science in Foster Hall (225-
as a fort designed to control access to the 578-2855) are also worth
Mississippi and the interior. It was so named by seeing. The visitor informa-
Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de Iberville (see tion center is at Dalrymple
p19), after he observed the spikes (red sticks) Drive and Highland Road.
hung with bloody fish heads that were arranged
E Magnolia Mound
along the river bluffs. In 1762, the French ceded Plantation
it to the British. During the American Revolution, 2161 Nicholson Dr. Tel (225) 343-
the Spanish took the opportunity to seize the 4955. # 10am–4pm Mon–Sat,
Lantern garrison, which remained under their control 1–4pm Sun. ¢ public hols. &
at LSU until 1810. After that, the local American John Joyce built this planta-
population took the fort and proclaimed tion home in 1791. In the
the Republic of West Florida. The area was claimed 19th century it stood at the
for the United States and it was incorporated into the center of a 900-acre farm,
producing indigo, cotton,
Union in 1817. It has been the state capital since 1849. perique tobacco, and sugar-
cane. The building has been
P Louisiana State carefully restored to reflect
University the antebellum era.
Nicholson Drive btw Highland Rd and
W Chimes St. Tel (225) 578-3202. P Old Governor’s Mansion
With its 31,000 students, this 502 North Blvd. Tel (225) 387-2464.
is the state’s flagship univer- # 10am–4pm Tue–Fri. ¢ public
sity. The tree-shaded campus hols. & 8 only (last tour 3pm). 7
is attractively landscaped and Governor Huey Long had this
boasts some unique features. mansion built in 1930. He
In the northwest corner, for modeled it on the White
example, two mounds rise House, even down to the
some 20 ft (6 m) high. Archeo- office, which is a smaller
logists believe that they are version of the Oval Office. The
5,000-year-old Native Ameri- building has been carefully
can mounds built before the restored, and the rooms have
first Egyptian pyramids. even been repainted in their
The university’s sports original colors, some of which
The graceful interior of Louisiana teams are some of the hottest are outlandish; Huey Long
Old State Capitol tickets in college sports. In apparently loved hot pinks,
baseball, the Tigers have purples, and greens, which
P Louisiana Old State won national titles for several appear in several bathrooms.
Capitol consecutive years, and the Many of the furnishings in
100 North Blvd. Tel (225) 342-0500. enthusiasm generated by the the library and the master
# 10am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–4pm football team is legendary. bedroom are original to
Sun. ¢ Mon (Jun–Mar), public hols. The university also has two the house. There is also
&7 cutting edge research facilities; memorabilia from other
James Harrison Dakin designed the Pennington Biomedical governors, including the
this striking castle-like building Research Center, devoted to singing governor, Jimmie
in 1847. William Freret con- nutritional medicine, and the Davis, who wrote You Are
ceived the soaring iron spiral Center for Microstructures my Sunshine.
staircase, installed during a
renovation in 1882, which
winds from the foyer toward
the stained-glass dome. It was
here, in the House Chamber,
that Louisiana’s state represent-
atives voted in 1861 to secede
from the Union. Seven decades
later, in 1929, impeachment
proceedings were begun here
against Huey “Kingfish” Long.
Today, this magnificent build-
ing serves as the state’s Center
for Political and Government
History. Visitors can view and
listen to many of the state’s
colorful political orators
expressing their views. Façade of the Greek Revival Old Governor’s Mansion

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5

USNO_146-147_Baton rouge.indd 146 5/15/08 10:43:10

10:42:17 AM
 B A T O N R O U G E 147

There are excellent VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

views of the Mississip-
pi and the city from 90 miles (144 km) NW of New
the 27th-floor observa- Orleans. * 576,330. k 9430
tion deck. Jackie Cochran Drive, (225) 355-
0333. @ Greyhound Bus Lines,
E USS Kidd 1001 Loyola Ave, (504) 524-7571.
305 S River Rd. Tel (225) n 730 North Blvd, (800) 527-
342-1942. # 9am–5pm 6843. _ Greater Baton Rouge
daily. ¢ Thanksgiving, State Fair (for 10 days, mid-Oct).
Dec 25. & 7
Commissioned in
The House Chamber, State Capitol 1943, this World War buildings and 19th-century
II destroyer saw action tools and artifacts. Each build-
P State Capitol in the Pacific, where she ing is filled with fascinating
State Capitol Dr at N 3rd St. suffered a kamikaze attack on objects – a washing machine
Tel (225) 342-7317. # 9am–4pm April 11, 1945, and 38 of the dating from 1900, pirogues
daily. ¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25, crew were killed. She also (a type of boat used on the
Jan 1, Easter Sunday. 7 served in the Korean War and bayous), cockfighting spurs,
Huey Long worked hard to other missions until 1964, and a tobacco press, to name
persuade the legislators to when she was decommi- a few. Steele Burden’s paint-
approve the $5 million ssioned. Visitors can see the ings and ceramic figures are
funding for this Modernist anti-aircraft guns and also displayed,
34-story building, erected in other equipment along with other
1932. It is the tallest capitol on the ship, and collectibles. In
in the United States. Both tour the cramped the time before it
the House and Senate quarters shared by was fashionable to
chambers are impressive, as the 330-man crew Old tractor at the preserve African
are the murals in Memorial below decks. Rural Life Museum American culture,
Hall. Visitors can still see Steele also rescued
the bullet holes in the E Rural Life Museum and all the buildings from nearby
marble walls of the first-floor Windrush Gardens Welham Plantation and re-
executive corridor, where 4560 Essen Lane at I-10. Tel (225) erected them in a typical
Long was assassinated on 765-2437. # 8:30am–5pm daily. plantation layout. Today,
September 8, 1935, by Dr. ¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 24, Dec 25, visitors can gain some insight
Carl A. Weiss, the son-in-law Jan 1, Easter Sunday. & 7 into how such a plantation
of a political enemy, Judge Ione Burden and her brother, functioned as a self-contained
Benjamin Pavy. The grounds Steele, who landscaped community. Crape myrtle,
contain Long’s grave in a Louisiana State University, azaleas, and other plantings
sunken memorial garden. assembled this collection of fill the adjacent gardens.

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USNO_146-147_Baton rouge.indd 147 5/15/08 10:43:10

10:42:18 AM
 148 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Upper Mississippi Plantations 3

The West Feliciana Parishes, to the north

of Baton Rouge, were not included in the
Louisiana Purchase (see p17) and remained
part of the Spanish domain until
1810. The plantations in this area
differ from the southern Creole-style
plantations. They were established by
British immigrants or by Americans from
North Carolina and Virginia, who made Living Traditions
Weather vane their fortunes here and brought their Many of the original work-
own culture and architectural styles. shops and tools have been
These beautiful plantations, with exceptional reconstructed and are in use.
surrounding gardens, are well worth visiting.



Greenwood Plantation
One of the largest and most beautiful
plantation houses in the area, Green-
wood was built in 1830 by William 
Ruffin Barrow in
classic Greek style. •

Butler
Greenwood
Built in 1790,
this house is
thoroughly
i
Victorian, Mississipp
both in its 
architecture Alexandria
and furniture.  NEW ROADS
•

The Myrtles
Built between 1796 and 1830,
The Myrtles plantation is
exceptionally well preserved.
Its 120-ft (40-m)-long cast-iron
gallery is its most extravagant
exterior feature.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5

USNO_148-149_A6 Feat 2 picmap.in148 148 5/15/08 10:56:36

10:56:12 AM
 U P P E R M I S S I S S I P P I P L A N T A T I O N S 149

•
NEW ORLEANS

LOCATOR MAP

0 kilometers 5
Cottage Plantation
With its original 14-karat gold wallpaper in 0 miles 3
the parlor, offers one of the best stays in the
area. Andrew Jackson stayed here after the
Battle of New Orleans (see p17).

Natchez



Catalpa
This little Victorian cottage is surrounded

by 30 acres of splendid gardens. Tours of

the interior reveal numerous interesting
historic family heirlooms.
• ST FRANCISVILLE



Baton Rouge

Oakley House
Naturalist John James Audubon (see
p111) tutored James Pirrie’s daughter,
Eliza, at this plantation. Many of
Audubon’s original prints are on
display. Fascinating nature trails
are also available.

Rosedown
This plantation has KEY
remarkable original Major road
furnishings, plus fine Minor road
formal gardens.

USNO_148-149_A6 Feat 2 picmap.in149 149 5/15/08 10:56:37

10:56:14 AM
 150 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Exploring the Upper Mississippi Plantations

The French established Baton Rouge in 1719, when
they built a fort to control access to the Mississippi
River and the interior (see pp146–7). After being
controlled by the Spanish and the British, this city
was finally incorporated into the United States in 1817,
and became the state capital in 1849. North of Baton
Rouge the plantations were established by British or
Americans, who held on to their Anglo-Saxon heritage.
A different architecture with Greek Revival influences
is dominant in this area. Many of these plantations
have been restored and are now charming B&Bs.
and for the many parties he
gave in the gardens, which
were landscaped with a pond Old slave cabin at Cottage
complete with an island for Plantation
picnics, a deer park, and
several summer houses. He The property includes several
also maintained greenhouses outbuildings, one of which
filled with exotic tropical has been converted into a
plants including banana, restaurant. Overnight lodging
Butler Greenwood, surrounded by guava, and mandarin. is also offered.
beautiful gardens
E Cottage Plantation P Greenwood Plantation
E Butler Greenwood 10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville. 6838 Highland Rd, St. Francisville.
8345 Hwy 61, St. Francisville. Tel Tel (225) 635-3674. # 9:30am– Tel (225) 655-4475. # Nov-Feb: 10am–
(225) 635-6312. # 9am–5pm daily. 4:30pm daily. ¢ major holidays. & 4pm; Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm. ¢ Jan 1,
& 8 www.butlergreenwood.com 8 www.cottageplantation.com Jul 4, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 8 7
Pennsylvania Quaker physician The land on which this house www.greenwoodplantation.com
Samuel Flower founded this stands was granted to John In 1830, James Hammon
plantation in 1796. His Allen and Patrick Holland Coulter designed this majestic
daughter, Harriet, ran it for in 1795. Judge Thomas Greek Revival home for
most of the 19th century Butler purchased the William Ruffin Barrow, who
as a cotton-producing original cottage and had migrated from the Caroli-
plantation. Today it is property in 1810. He nas. It stood on 12,000 acres,
still a working plantation was the son of Colonel which were worked by 750
operated by the Thomas Butler, one of slaves. Some 40 outbuildings
eighth genera- the five fighting Butlers housed workshops that made
tion of the family. who served under the plantation completely self-
Family portraits General Washington sufficient. The Barrows became
hang throughout during the American one of the most prominent
the house, which Revolution (1775–83). families in the area, but antici-
contains many of He extended the house pating the Civil War they sold
the original 19th- Exhibit at Butler to accommodate his the plantation. It survived the
century furnishings, Greenwood family. The interiors war serving as a hospital,
including a fine 12- are lavishly decorated but afterward it deteriorated
piece parlor set made of with 14-karat gold-leaf wall- rapidly. In 1906 Mr. and
rosewood and upholstered paper and plenty of faux bois. Mrs. Frank Percy restored it,
in the original scarlet-colored
fabric. The plantation also
offers lovely B&B-style
accommodation.

E Catalpa
9508 Hwy 61, St. Francisville.
Tel (225) 635-3372.
# by appointment only.
¢ Dec 15–Jan 31. & 8
The current building is a
reconstruction of the original,
which was destroyed in a fire
in 1885. Carolinian William J.
Fort established the plantation
in the early 1800s. He was
famous for his hospitality Greenwood Plantation, furnished with impressive antebellum pieces

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5

USNO 150-151 A6 feat2 f_o.indd 150 5/15/08 10:58:33

10:58:12 AM
 U P P E R M I S S I S S I P P I P L A N T A T I O N S 151

salvaging the marble

mantels and silver
hinges and doorknobs.
Tragically, in 1960
lightning destroyed the
entire structure, except
for the 28 massive
Doric columns. It has
since been restored,
and visitors can once
again see the splendor
of the 70-ft (21-m)-
long central hall and
the rest of the interior.
Greenwood runs a
B&B and is a popular
venue for weddings.
Greenwood Plantation, one of the largest American-style plantations
E The Myrtles
7747 Hwy 61, St. Francisville. cypress, has a double gallery was adapted to the Louisiana
Tel (225) 635-6277. # 9am–5pm supported by Doric columns. climate. Since then, it has
daily. ¢ major hols. & 8 7 Other sections of the house been surrounded by a bosky
www.myrtlesplantation.com feature Georgian details. paradise inhabited by
A leader of the Whiskey The Turnbull family owned numerous species of birds.
Rebellion (1794) in Pennsyl- and operated the plantation In 1821, naturalist John
vania, Judge David Bradford from 1835 to 1955. Practically James Audubon (see p111)
fled south and established this all of the contents of the and his assistant arrived to
plantation in 1796. He built house are original, including teach daughter Eliza Pirrie
the north wing of the house rosewood furniture by Mallard dancing, music, drawing, and
and in the early 1800s, his and Seignoret, portraits by math. He and his assistant
daughter and her husband, Thomas Sully, brocade dra- received room and board and
Judge Clark Woodruff, added peries, and marble mantels. $60 a month. The arrange-
the 107-ft (36-m)-long gallery. Daniel and Martha Turnbull, ment did not last, and he left
Ruffin Gray Stirling bought who established the plantation after only four months, having
the house in 1834, and added in 1835, purchased most of quarreled with his employer.
the south wing. Local legend the furnishings on their initial Still, in that brief time he
says that several murders were Grand Tour of Europe in began at least 32 bird portraits,
committed here and that the 1834 and on subsequent trips which later appeared in The
house is haunted. Special tours abroad. The grounds contain Birds of America. Today,
on Friday and Saturday nights a kitchen building, the visitors can see the room
highlight its haunted history. doctor’s office, a barn, and Audubon stayed in and
Bed-and-breakfast accommo- a gardener’s tool house. wander the trails around the
dation is also available. The 28 acres of French-style property. Magnolias, beeches,
gardens are exquisite too. and poplars still shelter
Martha Turnbull was a well- abundant bird life in the state
known horticulturist, who park surrounding the house.
introduced the first azaleas
and camellias to the region.
In 2000 the state of
Louisiana purchased the plan-
tation from a private owner,
who had unfortunately sold
some of the original furnish-
ings. The estate has been
renovated and now offers
The handsome cast-iron veranda a fascinating 45-minute tour
surrounding The Myrtles of the house and grounds.

E Rosedown Plantation P Oakley House and

12501 Hwy 10, St Francisville. Audubon State Historic Site
Tel (225) 635-3332. # 9am–5pm Hwy 965, St. Francisville. Tel (225)
daily. ¢ Thanksgiving, Dec 25, 635-3739. # 9am–5pm daily. ¢
Jan 1. & 8 Thanksgiving, Dec 25, Jan 1. & 8
Rosedown is one of the Wealthy Scottish immigrant
largest and most complete James Pirrie built this house
of the plantations along the between 1808 and 1810, and
river. The gabled central it is a splendid example of Study used by John James Audubon in
structure, built of cedar and the way colonial architecture Oakley House

USNO 150-151 A6 feat2 f_o.indd 151 5/15/08 10:58:33

10:58:13 AM
152 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

tradition. Zydeco developed

from the same traditions but
incorporates much more Afro-
Caribbean rhythm and style.
The Hall of Fame features
the great names in Cajun
music, from such early
musicians as Amédé Ardoin,
Alphé Bergeron, Dennis
McGee, Joe Falcon, Amédé
Breaux, Iry Lejeune, and
Lawrence W Walker, to more
recent interpreters, including
Michael Doucet, Zachary
Richard, and W Wayne Toups.
Heading from Eunice to
Opelousas along Highway
The Liberty Theater, home of the Rendez-Vous des Cajuns radio show 190, there is The Savoy
Music Center, the informal
Eunice 4 which will be eaten at the headquarters for Cajun musi-
end of the day. The key cians in the area. The store is
Cajun Country. * 11,000. ingredient, a chicken, has owned by accordion-maker-
@ 1238 W Landry St. n 200 South to be chased down and musician Marc Savoy and his
CC Duson Dr, (337) 457-2565. caught live. wife, Ann. It sells musical
Located nearby are instruments, CDs, and
Every weekend there is a two other cultural books on Cajun cul-
Cajun music celebration in centers. The Cajun ture and music. On
this picturesque Louisiana Music Hall of Fame Saturday mornings
town, where most of the & Museum, which local musicians
main attractions are in the opened in 1997, assemble in the
downtown area. The town honors the ori- front of the store
was founded by C. C. Duson ginators of Cajun for a jam session
in 1893, who named it in music and the around the upright
honor of his wife. The Liberty artists who have piano. They bring
Theater is the keeper of the kept the tradition accordions, trian-
flame of Cajun music – the alive. It displays Cajun accordion in The gles, and fiddles,
Grand Ole Opry of Cajun memorabilia, ins- Savoy Music Center and play together.
music. It opened in the 1920s truments such as People can bring
as a movie and vaudeville accordions and violins, beer, boudin, and other
theater. Every Saturday from photographs, and biographies snacks. Visitors are welcome
6 to 8pm the theater hosts a of the 40 inductees. to listen and join in.
live broadcast of the Rendez- Cajun music is a blend of
Vous des Cajunss radio show. several traditions – German, E The Prairie Acadian
It is filled with Cajun and Scottish, Irish, Spanish, Afro- Cultural Center
zydeco music and plenty Caribbean, and Native 250 West Park Ave.
of good Cajun humor. The American – which have been Tell (337) 457-8490.
# 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–6pm
master of ceremonies makes laid over a base of French
Sat. ¢ 25 Dec. 7
introductions in both English and French-Acadian folk
and French.
Visitors to The Prairie
Acadian Cultural Center,
located just behind the
theater, can observe musical
instruments and other items
being made in the craft room.
Other displays focus on
aspects of Acadian culture,
including the Courir. Literally
“the race,” this is the Cajun,
and distinctly medieval,
version of Mardi Gras.
Participants wear a capuchon
(a tall, cone-shaped hat,
which covers the face as well
as the head) and ride on
horseback from farm to farm
begging for the ingredients
for a community gumbo, Mardi Gras costume and memorabilia at The Prairie Acadian Cultural Center

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5
 C A J U N C O U N T R Y 153

view the historic local

architecture. A tourist
information center is also
located here, as well as a
small museum devoted to
native son Jim Bowie, who
was the hero of the Alamo
and the namesake of the
well-known frontier knife.
Evangeline Downs Race-
track & Casino is a state-of-
the-art racing facility that
opened in 2003. The track
offers both quarter horse
and thoroughbred racing
Opelousas Museum and Interpretive Center (on separate dates). It is a
“racino,” that is, a racetrack
E The Cajun Music Hall The Opelousas Museum of with a full casino component,
of Fame & Museum Art stands in the oldest part which is a growing institution
240 South CC Duson Dr. Tell (337) of the city, in a historic among US racetracks. The
457-6534. # summer: 9am–5pm Federal-style brick building, casino consists primarily
Tue–Sat; winter: 8:30am–4:30pm built originally as a one-story of slot machines.
Tue–Sat. ¢ major hols. 7 tavern. The second story was
f The Liberty Theater added in 1828. Today, the E Opelousas Museum
200 Park Ave. Tell (337) 457-7389. museum mounts several 315 N Main St. Tell (337) 948-
# 4pm Sat. & 7 shows each year featuring art 2589. # 9am–5pm Mon–Sat.
¢ major hols. & 7
f The Savoy Music Center on loan from major museums
Hwy 190 East, Savoy. Tell (337) and private collections. E Opelousas Museum of Art
457-9563. # 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Recent shows have focused 106 North Union St. Tell (337) 942-
9am–noon Sat. ¢ major hols. 7 on paintings by Louisiana’s 4991. # 1–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–
5pm Sat. ¢ major hols. 7 &
African American folk painter,
Clementine Hunter, jazz P Le Vieux Village
Opelousas 5 photographs taken by William 28 East Landry St. Tell (337) 948-
0561, toll-free 800-424-5442.
P. Gottlieb, and the wood
Cajun Country. * 11,000. engravings made by Winslow # 8am–4pm daily.
¢ major hols. 8 7
n 828 E Landry St, (800) 424- Homer for Harper’s Weekly.
5442. www.cityofopelousas.com A slice of Opelousas life is Evangeline Downs Racetrack
on view at Le Vieux Village, a & Casino
This city, the capital of collection of buildings dating 2235 Creswell Lane Extension. Tel
(866) 472-2466, toll-free 800-424-
Confederate Louisiana during from the 1700s, including a
5442. # Feb–Sep (racetrack);
W r (see pp18–19),
the Civil War church, schoolhouse and 24 hrs daily (casino). 0 = 7
was named after the Native doctor’s office, that offers www.evangelinedowns.com
American tribe that lived visitors an opportunity to
in this area before the
Europeans arrived. It was
founded as a French trading
post settlement during the
1700s, and today it is one
of the liveliest towns in
this district, thanks to its
excellent cuisine and music.
The major collections of the
Opelousas Museum focus on
the local culture and history
of the town. The museum’s
two main exhibit areas are
devoted to the prehistory of
the area, its agricultural and
commercial development,
and to the people of different
races and religions who
developed the region and
contributed to its culture.
One room is devoted to
memorabilia from the Civil
War, while another houses
W
a fascinating collection of
more than 400 dolls. Main façade of the Opelousas Museum of Art

5/15/08 11:00:01 AM
154 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

Lafayette 6
When the first Acadians arrived in 1764, they settled
along the bayous and in the prairie lands west of
New Orleans. Being rural people, they worked as
farmers and made a living from the swamps. Lafayette
was the first city they founded, and it has remained
at the heart of the Cajun culture, because of the strong
Arcadian family traditions and cultural heritage.
Community centers, restaurants, several detailed
reconstructions of Cajun villages, and its own local
architectural style have imprinted this city with a
unique atmosphere and the distinctive feeling of
being in the Cajun Country.
E Acadian Cultural Center P Lafayette Museum/
501 Fisher Rd, Lafayette. Tell (337) Alexandre Mouton House Harp on display at the Alexandre
232-0789. # 8am–5pm daily. 1122 Lafayette St, Lafayette. Mouton House
¢ Dec 25. 7 Tell (337) 234-2208. # 9am–
A 37-minute film dramatizes 4:30pm Tue–Sat, 1–4pm Sun. governor of Louisiana – a
the British deportation of the ¢ major hols. & 7 notable example of Cajun
Acadian population from Jean Mouton, founder of success. The house contains
Canada’s Acadie, and charts Lafayette, built the original furnishings, paintings, maps,
their diaspora to France and house around 1800. He and and documents relating to
to places along the east his wife Marie the city’s history, plus some
coast of North and their 12 glittering Mardi Gras
America, children used it costumes and regalia.
before their only on Sundays
final arrival in when they came from E University Art Museum
Louisiana. In an their plantation in 1710 East St. Mary Boulevard,
adjacent display Old-fashioned Carencro to attend Lafayette. Tell (337) 482-2278. #
area, informative Cajun plough church and socialize. 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. ¢ major hols.
exhibits, featuring In 1825 the sixth son, & 7 www.louisiana.edu/uam
photographs and artifacts, Alexandre, moved his family This small art museum is
focus on every aspect of and law practice into the located on the campus of the
Acadian culture, including house. He later became a University of Louisiana at
language, music, architecture, United States senator and Lafayette, an institution with
religion, cuisine, the Courir
festival (see p152), and all
kinds of handcrafts.

E Vermilionville
300 Fisher Rd, Lafayette. Tell (337)
233-4077. # 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
(last admission 3pm). ¢ major hols.
& 7 www.vermilionville.org
This fascinating living-history
museum features a collection
of buildings dating from
1790 to 1890 assembled into
a typical Cajun village on
23 acres. Its name, Vermilion-
ville, was the original name
for the city of Lafayette.
Costumed artisans demon-
strate the skills that were
needed to survive in 18th-
and 19th-century Louisiana;
woodworking, blacksmithing,
spinning, weaving, and cook-
ing. It is pleasant to wander
from building to building
imagining what traditional
Cajun life was like. A per-
formance hall, where Cajun
bands regularly entertain, is
open in the afternoon. Original Acadian chapel in Vermilionville

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5
 A F AY E T T E 155

The University Art Museum, a 2001 design in steel, stone, and glass

17,000 students, which has an steel with state-of-the-art E The Acadian Village
excellent Computer Science exhibition spaces. It has 200 Greenleaf Dr, Lafayette.
department and is also home many outstanding works of Tell (337) 981-2364. # 10am–4pm
to both the National Wetlands
W art, including European and daily. ¢ Mardi Gras, Thanksgiving,
Research Center and the American art from the 18th, Dec 25, Jan 1. & 7
Center for Louisiana Studies. 19th, and 20th centuries, and At this version of a recreated
The University Art Museum a wide assortment of 2nd 19th-century village, most of
was founded in 1968 and century BC Egyptian artifacts. the buildings are original,
has a permanent collection This permanent exhibition although they have been
of more than 1,500 works also includes an excellent moved here from other
including paintings, sculpture, collection of African locations. The houses are
folk art, and textiles. The American folk art. Diverse furnished with typical Cajun
emphasis is on the cultural architectural drawings, as furniture and tools, and are
heritage of Louisiana. In 2001, well as student works, are tended by costumed guides
the museum moved to a bold displayed along with tempo- who demonstrate such skills
new building of glass and rary exhibits all year long. as spinning, weaving, and
blacksmithing. One of the
residences was the birthplace
THE ACADIANS of state senator, Dudley
Driven by the British from Acadia, in Nova Scotia, Canada, LeBlanc, the creator of a
the Acadians (or “Cajuns”) settled along the bayous of cure-all tonic called Hadacol,
Louisiana in 1764, working as farmers. For generations which was still in use as
they were disparaged, and in the 20th century their culture recently as the 1950s.
came under threat, first when compulsory education
was introduced in 1916 and the French language
was forbidden, and later in the 1930s when Huey
Long (see p146) built roads across the swamps,
opening their communities to a wider world.
When oil was discovered, the transformation
intensified; outsiders flooded in and the
Francophone culture was endangered. The
culture survived largely because Cajuns have
a strong sense of family and attachment to
place. Today Cajun Country is the largest
French-speaking community in the United
States. In the 1960s, Cajun pride was restored
when the teaching of French returned to the
classrooms. At the same time, Cajun and
zydeco music started growing in popularity
among a broader audience, and Cajun
Traditional cuisine, promoted by chef Paul Prudhomme
Acadian dress (see p177), spread across the country. Dentist’s chair at the Acadian
Village’s infirmary
 156 B E Y O N D N E W O R L E A N S

State Commemorative Area

is a 180-acre state park that
stretches along Bayou Teche.
It offers pleasant picnicking
and walking trails among
300-year-old oaks. At the
center of the park stands a
reconstruction of a typical
Acadian cabin representative
of the 1790s. This can be
contrasted with the Olivier
House, a plantation home
built in 1815. The cypress
and brick structure has
14-inch (36-cm) thick walls.
The Acadian Memorial in St. Martinville There is also a museum,
which focuses on Acadian
St. Martinville 7 her as a nurse at his bedside history and culture.
as he lay dying.
Cajun Country. * 8,000. n 215 St. Martin de Tours Church E Acadian Memorial
Evangeline Blvd, (337) 394-2233. is the focal point of St. 121 South New Market St.
www.cityofsaintmartinville.com Martinville. Established in Tell (337) 394-2258. # 10am–
4pm daily. ¢ major hols. 7 &
1765 by French missionaries,
This small picturesque town it was the first church to E Petit Paris Museum and
on a natural levee of the serve the Acadian community. Gift Shop
Bayou Teche, was founded in Fairly plain inside, it contains 103 S Main St. Tell (337) 394-7334.
# 9:30am–4:30pm daily.
1765 as a military outpost. It a baptismal font, which
¢ Dec 25. 7 &
became known as “Petit Paris” was a gift from Louis XVI,
(little Paris) because many and a replica of the grotto 5 St. Martin de Tours
French noblemen settled at Lourdes. The grave of Church
there after fleeing the Evangeline Labiche (mythol- 133 S Main St. Tell (337) 394-7334.
# 8am–6pm daily.
French Revolution. ogized as Longfellow’s Evan-
¢ Fri noon–6pm. 7
Located in the geline) and a bronze statue
main square of this of her are located in the E The Longfellow-
town is the Acadian garden behind the church. Evangeline State
Memorial, which The monument was donated Commemorative Area
1200 N Main St. Tell (337) 394-3754.
houses the mural by actress Dolores del Río, # 9am–5pm daily. ¢ Thanks-
painted by Robert who played the role of giving, Dec 25, Jan 1. 7 8
Dafford, The Arrival Evangeline in the silent
of the Acadians in movie filmed here in 1929.
Louisiana, which Also on the church square
portrays some there is the Petit Paris New Iberia and
40 people, who Museum and Gift Shop, Avery Island 8
Acadian arrived in Louisiana which houses the historical
Memorial between 1764 and records of the most important Cajun Country. * 32,000.
1788. The painter events in the town’s life. @ 1103 E Main St. n 2513
went so far as to model some The Longfellow-Evangeline Highway 14, (888) 942-3742.
of the portraits on contem- www.cityofnewiberia.com
porary descendants. Opposite
the painting, the W Wall of Names New Iberia is notable for its
lists about 3,000 early Aca- many sugar cane plantations.
dians. Behind the museum, The area also owes its wealth
an eternal flame burns in to oil drilling and salt mining.
a small courtyard garden In fact, the so-called “islands”
overlooking Bayou Teche. in the region, such as Avery
A
Nearby stands the Evange- and Jefferson, are not actually
line Oak, marking the spot surrounded by water: rather
where the two famous they are domes located atop
Acadian lovers, Gabriel and salt mines.
Evangeline, supposedly At the plantation home
encountered each other. known as Shadows on the
Gabriel confessed that after Teche, 40 trunks were found
three years in exile he had in the attic, filled with 17,000
despaired of ever seeing her letters, photographs, receipts,
again and married another. and papers relating to the
She went mad and died soon family who lived here. This
after. Longfellow’s poem St. Martin de Tours church at the documentation is used as back-
changes the ending, placing center of St. Martinville ground for the fascinating
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp168–9 and pp184–5
 C A J U N C O U N T R Y 157

tour of the house. A native

of Maryland, David Weeks,
W
built the plantation home in
1831. He died shortly there-
after, leaving his wife, Mary
Clara, to run it. During the
W (see pp18–19), when
Civil War
Union General Nathaniel P.
Banks seized it and made it
his headquarters, Mary Clara
retired to the attic where she
died in 1863. The last owner,
Weeks Hall, was a well-known
W
artist and scholar, who restored
the house and entertained
many famous visitors in it,
including director Cecil B.
DeMille and writer Henry Moss-draped oaks and spring-flowering plants in the Jungle Gardens
Miller. Their names are
inscribed in the foyer. gardens also shelter a diverse 1972, the Texaco Oil Company
On A Avery Island the population of egrets, herons, mistakenly drilled through the
McIlhenny Company Tabasco peacocks, as well as the salt dome, causing an explo-
Factory and Jungle Gardens is beaver-like nutria. In winter, sion that set off a minor tidal
the source of the famous hot wild fowl stop here too. wave on the lake. Miracu-
sauce, which is an essential The Rip Van Winkle House lously, no one was killed.
ingredient in Bloody Marys and Gardens are located on
and in local cuisine. the salt dome called Jefferson P Shadows on the Teche
Approximately 75 acres of Island. It was built by the 317 E Main St, New Iberia. Tell (337)
pepper plants blaze their actor Joseph Jefferson in 1870 369-6446. # 9am–4:30pm daily
bright red color from August and named after the role he (from noon Sun). ¢ major hols.
to November. A brief film played 4,500 times. Architec- & www.shadowsontheteche.org
explains the process in which turally, it is a hodgepodge of E McIlhenny Company
the red chili peppers are Moorish, Steamboat Gothic, Tabasco Factory and
crushed and combined with and Victorian. The house is Jungle Gardens
salt and vinegar to make the surrounded by 25 acres of Hwy 329, Avery Island. Tell (337)
zesty sauce. Visitors can also beautiful gardens, which are 365-8173. # 9am–4pm daily.
tour the bottling factory. on the banks of Lake Peigneur. Jungle Gardens Tell (337) 369-
The founder considered After Jefferson died in 1905, 6249 # 9am–5pm daily. ¢ major
hols. 7 & 8 www.tabasco.com
himself a botanist-naturalist J. Lyle
L Bayless of the Salt Island
and the Jungle Gardens that Mining Company purchased P Rip Van Winkle House
he assembled are spectacular. the house. Shortly afterward, and Gardens
In addition to abundant oil was discovered on the 5505 Rip Van Winkle Rd, Jefferson
Island. Tell (337) 359-8525. #
camellias and azaleas, there property. It was soon produc-
8am–5pm daily. ¢ public hols. 7
are such exotica as Latin ing up to 250,000 barrels of 8 www.ripvanwinklegardens.com
American papaya. The oil a week from 30 wells. In

Shadows on the Teche in New Iberia

Food stalls in the French Market, New Orleans

15/5
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 TRAVELERS’
NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY 160169

RESTAURANTS, CAFES, AND BARS 170185
SHOPPING IN NEW ORLEANS 186193
ENTERTAINMENT IN NEW ORLEANS 194203

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160 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

WHERE TO STAY

N ew Orleans is a big convention

town, with many well-known
hotel chains, including the
Hyatt, Hilton, Marriott, and Shera-
ton. It also has some elegant hotels,
on Bayou Road, or in small inns such
as the Maison de Ville and Audubon
Cottages. After Hurricane Katrina all
but one major hotel were able to
reopen. The one exception was the
like the Windsor Court, the Ritz historic Fairmont, whose basement
Carlton, and Le Pavillon, and lovely and guest rooms were badly dam-
boutique offerings, such as Interna- aged by flood waters. A group of
tional House and Soniat House. Some regional investors is now planning to
of the best lodgings can be found in reopen this local icon as a Waldorf
bed and breakfasts, like the House Bellman Astoria property by 2010.
Prices can rise more than 50 are necessary. Some of the
percent during Mardi Gras budget-priced guest houses
and special events, and be and B&Bs have shared bath-
prepared for a three- to five- rooms, and facilities for disa-
day minimum stay. bled guests can be limited.
All hotel accommodations,
unless otherwise stated, HIDDEN EXTRAS
include air-conditioning,
elevators, non-smoking Taxes will add 13 percent to
rooms, and full bathrooms. the bill plus an additional
During major holidays, such $1–$3 for “room night tax”.
as Christmas, many hotels Valet parking will cost from
V
require a three- or four-night $12 to $25 a day. Some motels
minimum stay. In the off- f and B&Bs have free parking,
season, such as the summer, so always ask ahead. Hotel
special rates and vacation pack- telephone charges are often
ages offer amazing discounts. very high. It is always cheaper
to use a pay phone in the
Le Pavillon Hotel in the Business BED AND BREAKFAST lobby or use your cell phone,
District (see p165) particularly when calling
Guest houses and boutique overseas. You will also pay a
WHERE TO LOOK hotels are usually in renovated premium on products in your
historic homes, and B&Bs are minibar. A tip of $1 to $2 per
Most hotels are located in rooms in a private residence. bag is usually paid to the
the French Quarter or in the All offer some meals, full bellman for carrying bags.
Central Business District along breakfasts or just coffee and Room-service waiters expect
Canal Street, the latter being croissants, and often, afternoon the standard 15 percent tip. If
within walking distance of tea or cocktails are provided. staying more than one night,
both the Quarter and the All have a limited number of you should leave $1 to $2 a
Convention Center. Bed and rooms, so advance reservations day for the housekeeping staff.
breakfasts (B&Bs) are scattered
throughout the city, uptown
in the Garden District, and on
the fringes of the Quarter in the
Faubourgs Marigny and Treme.
T

HOTEL PRICES AND

SERVICES

New Orleans has accommo-

dations to fit any budget,
from the least expensive
motel to the fabulous French
Quarter hotels and guest
houses. Prices vary according
to the location and the level
of luxury; many boutique
hotels are as expensive as the
splendid high rises, and if the
hotel or B&B is in the French
Quarter, the price will reflect
this sought-after location. Lobby of the Omni Royal Orleans hotel (see p162)
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W H E R E T O S T AY 161

establishments have at least

one room equipped for disa-
bled guests. If you or any of
your traveling companions
have special needs, it is wise
to call the hotel in advance
to confirm suitability.

TRAVELING WITH
CHILDREN

Most hotels welcome child-

ren, although New Orleans
may not be an ideal destina-
tion for the young. Children
aged up to 12, 16, or 18
(depending on the place)
can usually stay free in
A perfect welcome at the Monteleone Hotel (see p162) their parents’ room.

FACILITIES SPECIAL RATES YOUTH AND BUDGET

ACCOMMODATIONS
Most establishments offer When making reservations, it
full facilities, such as well- won’t hurt to ask for special New Orleans has a few
appointed rooms, cable TV, V AAA, AARP, or senior citizen hostels, as well as some
phone, modems, mini-bars, rates. Some chains offer guest houses with rooms
and full bathrooms. Often the discount rates, and look at with shared bathrooms that
larger hotels have one or two hotel websites for special are modestly priced. Many
fine restaurants, several bars, a deals. You can reserve by motels on the outskirts of
fitness room, a swimming pool, using a major credit card. the city are also fairly
and a business center. At vir- Package tours may also offer inexpensive.
tually every hotel, you will savings from hotel or B&B
find complimentary toiletries, accommodations to airport/ DIRECTORY
a morning newspaper deli- hotel transportation. Check
vered to your door, room the newspapers for specials. RESERVATIONS
service, and wake-up and
reservation services. Bed And Breakfast
Because the weather in Reservation Service
New Orleans is semi-tropical, www.historiclodging.com
all accommodations are air- New Orleans Bed &
conditioned. B&Bs generally Breakfast and French
do not offer all these amenities, Quarter Accommodations
but the ambience in these 828 Rue Royal, Suite 259,
homes makes up for any lack. New Orleans,
LA 70116.
HOW TO BOOK Tel (504) 561-0447
or (888) 240-0070.
If you want to visit the city www.neworleansbandb.com
during Mardi Gras or the
Jazz and Heritage Festival, New Orleans Property
you will need to book six Management Service
months to a year in advance. 1000 Bourbon St,
At other times, a few months’ Box 314, New Orleans,
advance booking is recom- LA 70116.
mended. You can make Tel (866) 827-6652.
telephone or online A four-poster bed in one of the www.neworleansreservations.
reservations using a credit upscale bed and breakfasts com
card. A deposit of one night
is usually required, and there DISABLED TRAVELERS ONLINE
are specific cancellation
policies that guests should Since 1992 all hotels in the Expedia
clarify at the time of booking. United States have been www.expedia.com
If you anticipate arriving after required by law to provide Hotels.com
6pm, ask for guaranteed late wheelchair-accessible www.hotels.com
arrival. Most hotels have toll- accommodations. However,
free reservation numbers, older, listed, and historic Trip Advisor
and many take reservations properties are exempt from www.tripadvisor.com
by fax or e-mail. this provision, but most

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 162 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

For a standard double room per
night in the tourist season, including
These hotels have been selected across a wide price tax and service:
range for their good value, excellent facilities, and loca-
\ $50–$100
tion. This chart lists the hotels by area of the city in the \\ $100–$150
same order as the rest of the guide. Within each area, \\\ $150–$200
\\\\ $200–$250
entries are listed alphabetically within each price cate- \\\\\ over $250
gory, from the least expensive to the most expensive.

UPPER FRENCH QUARTER

Grenoble House hS \\

323 Dauphine St, 70112 Tell (504) 522-1331 Fax

x (504) 524 4968 Rooms 17 Map 4 C2
All the rooms are suites in this little-known French Quarter hotel. Kitchens and ample living space make this the
perfect place for a family or a group (but no children under 12). Furnishings are utilitarian. The courtyard and small
pool are lovely, and the staff are attentive and welcoming. www.grenoblehouse.com

Prince Conti Hotel eh0 \\

830 Conti St, 70112 Tell (504) 529-4172 Fax

x (504) 581-3802 Rooms 81 Map 4 C2
Generations of Southern families have stayed at the Prince Conti. Rooms vary in size and are handsomely furnished
with antiques and art. The friendly, long-term staff make a point of getting to know guests. The hotel’s bar, the
Bombay Club, is renowned for its martinis. www.princecontihotel.com

Iberville Suites eh0S÷ \\\

910 Iberville St, 70112 Tell (504) 523-2400 Fax

x (504) 524-1321 Rooms 230 Map 4 C2
This is the downscale segment of the Ritz-Carlton but it is still pretty luxe. All the rooms are junior suites with
small fridges, coffeemakers, two TVs, and much more. Decor is chintz and mahogany. The famed Ritz service is
good even for the not-so-rich guests who bunk here. www.ibervillesuites.com

Olivier House eS \\\

828 Toulouse St, 70112 Tell (504) 525-8456 Fax

x (504) 529-2006 Rooms 58 Map 4 C2
Three townhouses and several other buildings compose this Quarter hotel. The entrance parlors are formal, but there
is a free spirit about the Olivier House. Rooms range from no-frills options to shabby-chic suites. The courtyard is
small but pretty. Pets are welcome. www.olivierhouse.com

Maison de Ville & Audubon Cottages h0S \\\\

727 Toulouse St, 70130 Tell (504) 561-5858 Fax

x (504) 528-9939 Rooms 24 Map 4 C2
The Maison de Ville is a beautiful Creole townhouse compound with richly decorated, if smallish, rooms. The even
more expensive Audubon Cottages are a block away: idyllic private cottages in a tropical garden with a pool. This
is how visitors dream their Quarter hotel will be. www.maisondeville.com

Monteleone Hotel eh0S÷ \\\\

214 Royal St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-3341 Fax

x (504) 681-4491 Rooms 625 Map 4 C3
The Monteleone has been a French Quarter landmark since 1886. This family-owned hotel has undergone a major
renovation, revamping its rooms with new fabrics, furniture, and amenities. Try booking one of the “literary rooms,”
named for writer guests such as Truman Capote and Ernest Hemingway. www.hotelmonteleone.com

Omni Royal Orleans eh0S÷ \\\\

621 St. Louis St, 70130 Tell (504) 529-5333 Fax

x (504) 529-7089 Rooms 346 Map 4 C2
One of the largest hotels in the French Quarter, the Omni Royal is known for its attentive service. Rooms have an
old New Orleans look but are fully equipped with dataports, Wi-Fi, and dual phones. Ask for a “get fit” guest room
and get your own treadmill and supply of healthy snacks. www.omniroyalorleans.com

The Ritz-Carlton eh0S÷ \\\\

921 Canal St, 70112 Tell (504) 524-1331 Fax

x (504) 524-7675 Rooms 527 Map 4 B3
This hotel actually comprises three hotels in one place (Iberville Suites and Maison Orleans are the other two). The
largest segment is the Ritz-Carlton, which lives up to its reputation for luxury. Rooms are large with marble baths.
The hotel spa, which is one of the best in the US, is pure bliss. www.ritzcarlton.com

Royal Sonesta Hotel eh0S÷ \\\\

300 Bourbon St, 70130 Tell (504) 586-0300 Fax

x (504) 586-0335 Rooms 535 Map 4 C2
Covering almost a block in the Quarter, this hotel is like a little village with its own shops, cafés, courtyards, and
personalities. Rooms range from basic to suites, all handsomely appointed. Ask to be as far away from Bourbon
Street as possible to avoid street noise. www.royalsonestano.com

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

USNO_162-169 Hotel Listings.indd162

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16
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 W H E R E T O S T AY 163

Maison Orleans eh0S÷ \\\\\

904 Iberville St, 70112 Tell (504) 670-2848 Fax

x (504) 670-2849 Rooms 75 Map 4 C2
The Ritz-Carlton goes over the top with the supremely luxurious Maison Orleans. It feels like a private club with
your own staff rather than a hotel. Rooms have dreamy beds, gilt-encrusted furniture, and soaking tubs. Guests
are served food and drink almost continually. www.ritzcarlton.com

W French Quarter eh0S \\\\\

316 Chartres St, 70130 Tell (504) 581-1200 Fax

x (504) 522-3208 Rooms 99 Map 4 C3
W tries to find a middle ground between postmodern and French Quarter non-modern in this stylish hotel. Rooms
have all the W signatures: most important, the lush bed. All the rooms are small, which is typical of the Quarter.
The hotel restaurant Bacco is a top New Orleans spot. www.whotels.com

LOWER FRENCH QUARTER AND MARIGNY

Bon Maison Guesthouse \

835 Bourbon St, 70116 Tell (504) 561-8498 Rooms 4 Map 5 D1

On lower Bourbon Street, Bon Maison is an 1833 Creole townhouse with slave quarters. It is convenient to the gay
bar scene, although non-gays also like the B&B for its historic ambience, well-appointed rooms, and great prices.
Rooms have fridges and microwaves. The guesthouse doesn’t accept children. www.bonmaison.com

Pierre Coulon Guesthouse ¤ \

714 Spain St, 70117 Tell (504) 943-6692 Rooms 2 Map 5 F1

Staying at this Marigny home is like living in New Orleans. Guests reside in the restored two-story slave quarters,
equipped with a small kitchen. The rooms open out into a tranquil courtyard, shared with the main house. The
hosts know the city intimately and cheerfully share tips. www.pierrecoulonguesthouse.com

Andrew Jackson Hotel \\

919 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 561-5881 Fax

x (504) 596-6769 Rooms 22 Map 5 D1
This fine little hotel sits on a tranquil corner of Royal Street in a 19th-century villa. The best rooms are the balcony
suites overlooking the street. It is worth the extra charge for the fine view. Rooms are traditional in style, with basic
amenities. Most rooms open onto the courtyard. www.frenchquarterinns.com

Chateau Hotel hS \\

1001 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 524-9636 Fax

x (504) 525-2989 Rooms 45 Map 5 D2
The Chateau is a hotchpotch of several historic and newer buildings cobbled together in the Lower (quieter) Quarter.
Rooms come in a variety of sizes, some with antique pieces. The hotel has a long list of regulars who return year
after year, giving it a clubhouse feel. www.chateauhotel.com

Cornstalk Hotel h÷ \\

915 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 523-1515 Fax

x (504) 522-5558 Rooms 14 Map 5 D1
Named for its charming cornstalk-shaped cast-iron fence, this hotel is a converted 19th-century home. Some of
the rooms are tiny, but all are furnished with antiques. The second-story verandah is a favorite gathering place
for sipping drinks while watching the Quarter pass by. www.cornstalkhotel.com

Frenchmen Hotel S \\

417 Frenchmen St, 70116 Tell (504) 948-2166 Fax

x (504) 948-2258 Rooms 28 Map 5 E1
This hotel is just steps away from the French Quarter and the Frenchmen Street music scene. It’s a compound of
several 19th-century buildings. Rooms can be on the dark side, and the pool is tiny. Pluses include the friendly,
helpful staff and the bohemian ambience. www.frenchmenhotel.com

Hotel Provincial hS \\

1024 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 581-4995 Fax

x (504) 581-1018 Rooms 94 Map 5 D2
Popular with business travelers and families, the Provincial is a mix of 1960s motel and historic Quarter building
styles. Rooms have a vintage look, with antiques and exposed brick. There are several courtyards, two pools,
parking, and access to the motel’s acclaimed eatery, Stella! www.hotelprovincial.com

Hotel Villa Convento \\

616 Ursulines St, 70116 Tell (504) 522-1793 Fax

x (504) 524-1902 Rooms 25 Map 5 D1
This is a family-owned inn of the old school: modest in amenities but rich in service and ambience. Rooms are basic
and clean. The inn is on a quiet street in the Quarter and is a quick walk to clubs and attractions. Singer Jimmy
Buffett lived here in the 1970s when it was a rooming house. www.villaconvento.com

Le Richelieu Hotel eh0S \\

1234 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 529-2492 Fax

x (504) 524-8179 Rooms 86 Map 5 D1
A Quarter favorite, this hotel is forever famous for Paul McCartney and his family staying here for months in the
1970s. Rooms have a vintage look, and suites are also available. The courtyard and pool are very pretty, and the
large, park-it-yourself parking lot is a rarity in the Quarter. www.lerichelieuhotel.com
 164 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Lions Inn Bed & Breakfast 0S \\

2517 Chartres St, 70117 Tell (504) 945-2339 Fax

x (504) 944-4927 Rooms 10 Map 5 F1
The engaging house-party atmosphere makes this gay-friendly inn popular with straight people as well. The B&B’s
two adjoining houses open onto a large, jungle-like courtyard with a pool. Rooms vary in size from tiny to apartment
with kitchenette. Two rooms have shared baths. www.lionsinn.com

Maison Dupuy Hotel eh0S÷ \\

1001 Toulouse St, 70112 Tell (504) 586-8000 Fax

x (504) 525-5334 Rooms 200 Map 4 C2
This hotel is at the “back of the Quarter” (opposite from the river). It is built around a courtyard, and some rooms
have overlooking balconies. Rooms are decorated with local art and soothing colors. Dominique’s, one of the city’s
top haute cuisine restaurants, is part of the hotel. www.maisondupuy.com

Nine-O-Five Royal Hotel \\

905 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 523-0219 Fax

x (504) 525-3905 Rooms 13 Map 5 D2
This small hotel in the French Quarter is a little-known jewel. Set in a large Victorian house on a quiet corner, it
offers the best kind of basic stay – a good place to sleep and regroup in attractive surroundings with a helpful
staff. Ask for one of the suites a with balcony. www.905royalhotel.com

Claiborne Mansion hS \\\

2111 Dauphine St, 70116 Tell (504) 949-7327 Fax

x (504) 949-0388 Rooms 7 Map 3 E4
This is one of New Orleans’s best-kept secrets. The 1858 villa has been imaginatively restored using a subtle color
palette and contemporary furniture. The rooms are airy and luxurious. The gardens feature a lap pool and a small
cottage. A favorite of visiting celebrities. www.claibornemansion.com

Hotel de la Monnaie ehS÷ \\\

405 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Tell (504) 947-0009 Fax

x (504) 945-6841 Rooms 53 Map 5 E1
Built in the 1980s, this Beaux-Arts style hotel is an ideal blend of the historic and the new. Rooms are clean, modern,
and stylishly decorated. The Monnaie is across Esplanade Avenue from the French Market and Old Mint museum.
The hotel is a time-share but rents to non-owners. www.hoteldelamonnaie.com

Lafitte Guesthouse \\\

1003 Bourbon St, 70116 Tell (504) 581-2678 Fax

x (504) 581-2677 Rooms 14 Map 5 D1
Ask for one of the two rooms with balconies overlooking Bourbon Street for a special experience. The 1840s Creole
townhouse feels like the 19th century but with modern conveniences. On the minus side, the bathrooms are small,
and there’s no elevator for the house’s four stories. www.lafitteguesthouse.com

Sunburst Inn h \\\

819 Mandeville St, 70117 Tell (504) 947-1799 Rooms 2 Map 3 F1

Located six blocks from the French Quarter, in an area full of popular restaurants, live-music venues, and gay bars,
this small inn is housed in a 1905 building that has been lovingly restored and painted in vibrant, cheerful hues. It
offers high-end amenities and a welcoming atmosphere, with hosts who love to entertain. www.sunburstinn.net

Lanaux Mansion h÷ \\\\\

547 Esplanade Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 330-2826 Rooms 4 Map 5 D1

Esplanade Avenue, formerly known as “The Creole Promenade,” has some of the grandest architecture you will see
in the city. The mansion housing the Lanaux was built in 1879, and has been lovingly restored with stunning, wrought-
iron balconies. Rooms feature antiques and Oriental rugs. The garden is also lovely. www.lanauxmansion.com

Soniat House h \\\\\

1133 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 522-0570 Fax

x (504) 524-0810 Rooms 33 Map 5 D1
The Soniat House is a favorite with visiting celebrities and millionaires. The service is sublime and the rooms are
beautifully appointed with Louisiana antiques, Oriental rugs, and big, enveloping beds. The hotel is located in
restored Creole townhouses that face each other across Chartres Street. www.soniathouse.com

WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS

O’Keefe Plaza Hotel ehS÷ \

334 O’Keefe Ave, 70112 Tell (504) 524-5402 Fax

x (504) 524-5450 Rooms 129 Map 4 B3
If you can get past the homely big-box look and dreary streetscape, this hotel has some lovely features. The prices
are astoundingly low, and it’s a clean, well-run facility. Rooms are plain but have all the basic necessities. The
O’Keefe Plaza is close to the French Quarter and CBD offices. www.okeefeplazahotel.com

Hampton Inn ehS÷ \\

226 Carondelet St, 70130 Tell (504) 529-9990 Fax

x (504) 529-5453 Rooms 187 Map 4 B3
This hotel is housed in a handsome historic office building in the Central Business District. Some rooms have four-
poster beds. Business travelers will find everything they need here. The pool, courtyard, and breakfast buffet are
especially good features. www.neworleanshamptoninns.com

Key to Price Guide see p162 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

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Homewood Suites ehS÷ \\

901 Poydras St, 70112 Tell (504) 581-5599 Fax

x (504) 581-9133 Rooms 166 Map 4 B3
Although this is a new building, the hotel has the look of an established New Orleans landmark. It’s aimed at business
travelers, but the suites have many other fans too. The kitchen and extra space are good for families. A Continental
breakfast is served daily. The Mardi Gras parades pass by this establishment. www.homewoodsuitesneworleans.com

La Quinta Inn & Suites ehS÷ \\

301 Camp St, 70130 Tell (504) 598-9977 Fax

x (504) 598-9978 Rooms 182 Map 4 C3
This handsome business hotel blends into the streetscape. While it may be short on charm, this branch of the La
Quinta chain is big on efficiency, cleanliness, and good prices. A few blocks from the Quarter and close to the St.
Charles Avenue streetcar, this hotel is also well placed. A large breakfast is included. www.lq.com

Royal St. Charles Hotel eh0S÷ \\

135 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 587-3700 Fax

x (504) 587-1704 Rooms 143 Map 4 C3
The glitzy exterior and boutique label make this hotel sound a little more exciting than it really is. The rooms are
small but clean and comfortable. The hotel is suitably located on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line and barely
a block from the French Quarter. www.royalsaintcharleshotel.com

Staybridge Suites eS÷ \\

501 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 Tell (504) 571-1818 Fax

x (504) 571-1811 Rooms 182 Map 4 C4
Convenient to the Convention Center, the museum district, and the casino, this chain hotel delivers on all its
promises. Rooms are bright and clean, and the breakfast is unusually fresh and abundant. The pool is a bit on
the small side, but the fitness center covers the basics. www.staybridgesuites.com

Lafayette Hotel e0 \\\

600 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 524-4441 Fax

x (504) 523-7327 Rooms 44 Map 4 B4
Right on the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line, the Lafayette recalls the elegant residential hotels of an earlier era
with its classic decor, friendly staff, and handsome Beaux-Arts building. Rooms are retreats with marble baths,
soothing colors, and polished wood furniture. www.neworleansfinehotels.com

Le Pavillon Hotel eh0S÷ \\\

833 Poydras St, 70112 Tell (504) 581-3111 Fax

x (504) 620-4130 Rooms 226 Map 4 B3
One of the city’s grande dames, Le Pavillon wears its crown lightly. The courtly staff evoke the days of gracious hotel
service. Rooms are decorated with fine art and period furniture. The rooftop pool, late-night lobby snacks, and cool
bar add to the hotel’s special allure. www.lepavillon.com

Lowe’s Hotel eh0S÷ \\\

300 Poydras St, 70130 Tell (504) 594-3300 Fax

x (504) 595-3310 Rooms 273 Map 4 C4
This stylish hotel in the city’s business and entertainment district is within a short walk of many galleries and
restaurants. Rooms are luxurious, and some have views of the nearby Mississippi River; the hotel’s Grand Luxury Suite
is the largest in the city. There is also a popular bar and restaurant. Pets are welcome. www.loweshotels.com

Renaissance Arts Hotel eh0÷ \\\

700 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 Tell (504) 613-2330 Fax

x (504) 613-2331 Rooms 217 Map 4 C4
This new hotel in the Warehouse District lives up to the “arts” in its name with a gallery and cutting-edge art works
everywhere. The large, airy rooms use bold colors and contemporary design. The hotel restaurant and bar, LaCote
Brasserie, is on the local list of hot spots. www.marriott.com

Renaissance Pere Marquette Hotel eh0S÷ \\\

817 Common St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-1111 Fax

x (504) 525-0688 Rooms 272 Map 4 B3
Built in 1925 as one of New Orleans’ first “skyscrapers,” the sophisticated Pere Marquette was refurbished in 2007.
There is a strong jazz theme throughout the hotel, and every room features luxurious amenities, whimsical decor,
spacious baths, and Herman Miller Aeron chairs. The in-house restaurant MiLA is wonderful. www.marriott.com

W Hotel eh0S÷ \\\\

333 Poydras St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-9444 Fax

x (504) 581-7179 Rooms 423 Map 4 C4
This seriously hip hotel has more going for it than design. Rooms have super-luxurious beds and all the electronic
amenities. The rooftop pool and cabanas are very trendy. The lobby is a popular meeting spot for beautiful 20-
somethings who love the Whiskey Blue bar. www.whotels.com

Windsor Court Hotel eh0S÷ \\\\

300 Gravier St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-6000 Fax

x (504) 596-4513 Rooms 324 Map 4 C4
Everything English is worshipped here. The hotel even does an authentic afternoon tea service. Luxury is the starting
point for the Windsor Court, where rooms are magical retreats, and the lobby is truly palatial. The service is almost
omniscient without being intrusive. www.windsorcourthotel.com

International House eh0÷ \\\\\

221 Camp St, 70130 Tell (504) 553-9550 Fax

x (504) 553-9560 Rooms 119 Map 4 C3
Staying here is an adventure – of the pleasant kind. Most months there’s an elaborate voodoo altar in the lobby.
Rooms are furnished with Louisiana-themed items. The marble bathrooms are extra large and have dual shower-
heads, and big soaking tubs. The Loa bar is a local hot spot. www.ihhotel.com

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166 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

G
GARDEN DISTRICT
S C AND U
UPTOWN
O

Avenue Inn B&B h \

4125 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 269-2640 Fax

x (504) 269-2641 Rooms 17 Map 7 E4
You see this 1891 mansion almost as its first occupants did; it has never been remodeled, only restored. Rooms are
on all three floors, some with period pieces, all with private baths. The house is near Tulane and Loyola, right on
the St. Charles Avenue streetcar line. www.avenueinnbb.com

Garden District Hotel eh0÷ \

2203 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 566-1200 Fax

x (504) 581-1352 Rooms 141 Map 8 A3
The St. Charles Avenue streetcar stops right in front of this hotel, which is only a short ride away from the French
Quarter. It is a reliable, mid-size establishment with unremarkable but comfortable, spacious rooms. It specializes in
arrangements for group travel, from transportation to catering and tours. www.gardendistricthotel.com

Maison St. Charles Inn h0S \

1319 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 522-0187 Fax

x (504) 529-4379 Rooms 130 Map 8 A2
Although this inn is not located in the most elegant part of the Garden District, it is still on the St. Charles Avenue
streetcar line. The rooms have a traditional decor and basic amenities. The central courtyard with pool, evening happy
hour, and billiard table add to the conviviality. Special deals for cruise-ship travelers. www.maisonstcharles.com

Marquette House h \

2249 Carondelet St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-3014 Fax

x (504) 529-5933 Rooms 25 Map 8 A3
A loose-limbed hostel (not part of the international association), Marquette House has typical dormitory rooms for
budget travelers. Apartments are also available in adjacent historic buildings and offer one of the best deals in town.
The compound is a block from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar. www.neworleansinternationalhouse.com

Prytania Park Hotel h \

1525 Prytania St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-0427 Fax

x (504) 522-2977 Rooms 74 Map 8 A3
One block from St. Charles Avenue, this compound of old and new buildings is a collection of suites and rooms.
Furnishings are from the upscale furniture store across the street (owned by the same family). Kids will love the
lofts in some suites, while everyone else will love the affordable rates. www.prytaniaparkhotel.com

St. Charles Guest House S \

1748 Prytania St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-6556 Fax

x (504) 522-6340 Rooms 35 Map 8 A3
Once a seamen’s boarding house, the inn has grown to include several buildings near St. Charles. It’s a friendly
family-run place where guests get to know each other and return year after year. All rooms are different, ranging
from no-frills to a few frills. No phones or TVs in the rooms. www.stcharlesguesthouse.com

Avenue Plaza eh0S÷ \\

2111 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 566-1212 Fax

x (504) 525-6899 Rooms 258 Map 8 A3
This hotel is all suites (two sizes) with kitchens. The St. Charles Avenue streetcar stops at the front door. The hotel
is a time-share and has recently undergone a refurbishing sequence. The main attraction is the courtyard pool,
where guests can relax and enjoy a massage. www.avenueplazahotel.com

Chimes Inn \\

1146 Constantinople St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-2621 Fax

x (504) 488-4639 Rooms 5 Map 7 E4
Guests stay in the four private rooms and one cottage in this Uptown home. Nicely decorated and perfectly
maintained, the B&B is a good homebase for travelers. The hosts serve a deluxe Continental breakfast and are
enthusiastic guides to the city. www.chimesneworleans.com

Columns Hotel eh0 \\

3811 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 899-9308 Fax

x (504) 899-8170 Rooms 20 Map 7 E4
This small hotel is famous as the set for the Brooke Shields film Pretty Babyy and has plenty of fans for its laid-back
ambience. The 1883 mansion’s rooms are quirky and decorated with antiques and secondhand chic. The lounge,
the Victorian Bar, is one of the city’s best bars. www.thecolumns.com

Creole Gardens Guesthouse h \\

1415 Prytania St, 70130 Tell (504) 569-8700 Fax

x (504) 895-2231 Rooms 25 Map 8 B2
Bright tropical blues and yellows signal a Caribbean mood for this lively guesthouse, popular with Europeans and
younger travelers. Rooms are in various shapes and sizes. All three 19th-century buildings that constitute the hotel
open onto the courtyard. Breakfast is included. www.creolegardens.com

Embassy Suites eh0S÷ \\

315 Julia St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-1993 Fax

x (504) 522-3044 Rooms 372 Map 8 B1
The all-suite plan makes this hotel ideal for business travelers and families with small children. The suites have
ample room and all have kitchenettes and marble baths with whirlpool tubs. The hotel is in the heart of the arts
and museum district. It has a sister hotel next door. www.embassyneworleans.com

Key to Price Guide see p162 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 167

Hubbard Mansion h \\

3535 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 897-3535 Fax

x (504) 899-8827 Rooms 5 Map 7 E4
This Greek Revival house is actually a new building, designed as a replica of a Natchez mansion. It’s furnished with
beautiful antiques, including rare Louisiana armoires. The host, Don Hubbard, is a New Orleans insider. Rooms are
of different sizes, and all have marble baths. www.hubbardmansion.com

Josephine Guest House h \\

1450 Josephine St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-6361 Fax

x (504) 523-6484 Rooms 7 Map 8 A3
Popular with romantics and those who enjoy a relaxed pace, the Josephine Guest House is located in an 1870
Italianate villa off St. Charles Avenue. The rooms are decorated with antiques and period pieces. Traditional café
au laitt is served in the morning, along with fresh breads. www.josephine.us

St. Charles Inn eh÷ \\

3636 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 899-8888 Fax

x (504) 899-8892 Rooms 40 Map 7 E4
The hotel is a wallflower on glamorous St. Charles but it is well worth seeking out, especially for the budget traveler.
Rooms are motel ordinary, and there’s no lobby to speak of, but it’s safe, comfortable, and on the streetcar line.
Pluses are free parking, Continental breakfast, and a fitness room. www.bestwestern.com

Sully Mansion \\

2631 Prytania St, 70130 Tell (504) 891-0457 Fax

x (504) 269-0793 Rooms 8 Map 7 F3
This 1890 Queen Anne-style mansion is wonderfully intact with stunning stained-glass windows and interior
moldings. Rooms are furnished with antiques and tasteful accessories. All rooms have modern baths. The B&B is
in the Garden District, a block from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar. www.sullymansion.com

Terrell Guesthouse ¤h \\

1441 Magazine St, 70130 Tell (504) 237-2076 Fax

x (504) 247-0565 Rooms 7 Map 8 B3
Completely refurbished in 2005, the inn is an 1858 villa in the Lower Garden District. Rooms are furnished with
antiques and art, all with private baths, and there is a spacious courtyard. A full breakfast is served. The neighbor-
hood is undergoing a renaissance of sorts. www.terrellhouse.com

Grand Victorian Inn h \\\

2727 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 895-1104 Fax

x (504) 896-8688 Rooms 8 Map 7 F3
This meticulously restored Queen Anne-style mansion led the way for other B&Bs on St. Charles Avenue. The house
is beautifully decorated with antiques and art. Bedrooms have four-poster and canopy beds along with private baths.
Some rooms overlook the avenue, which is always a plus. www.gvbb.com

Hampton Inn ehS÷ \\\

3626 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 899-9990 Fax

x (504) 899-9908 Rooms 100 Map 7 4E
Well placed on St. Charles Avenue, this hotel has a cheery pastel exterior that sets the tone for the helpful staff and
sunny lobby. Rooms are spacious and attractive. Big pluses are the free, non-valet parking and the ample breakfast
buffet. The St. Charles Avenue streetcar stops almost in front of the hotel. www.hamptoninn.com

Laurel Street Bed & Breakfast h \\\

5127 Laurel St, 70115 Tell (504) 269-5002 Fax

x (504) 269-5309 Rooms 4 Map 6 C5
Built in 1891 for the treasurer of the New Orleans Grand Opera House, this lovely B&B is housed in an old Eastlake
cottage with a garden and a large porch with an attractive view. It is located in a quiet neighborhood, but close to
the Mardi Gras parade routes and Audubon Park. Children are welcome.

Magnolia Mansion h \\\

2127 Prytania St, 70130 Tell (504) 412-9500 Fax

x (504) 412-9502 Rooms 9 Map 8 A3
This is one of New Orleans’s great antebellum houses. Now restored as a B&B, the grandeur remains. Guests must
abide by a long list of rules (no children, no red wine, etc), and sometimes have to dodge weddings and camera
crews. Rooms are lavishly decorated. www.magnoliamansion.com

McKendrick-Breaux House h \\\

1474 Magazine St, 70130 Tell (504) 586-1700 Fax

x (504) 522-7138 Rooms 9 Map 8 B3
Situated on a reviving part of Magazine Street, this is one of the city’s premier B&Bs. Two restored 1860s town-
houses are joined by a tropical garden. Rooms have antique beds, contemporary art, and private phones, reflecting
the inn’s masterful blending of old and new. www.mckendrick-breaux.com

MID CITY
MID-CITY

Ashton’s Bed & Breakfast h \\

2023 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Tell (504) 942-7048 Rooms 8 Map 3 D3

Guests love sitting in the back garden under the ancient oak tree at this popular B&B. The 1861 mansion is situated
near the Fair Grounds, making it ideal for the Jazz Fest. City Park is also nearby. Most rooms are furnished with
period furniture and all have private baths. www.ashtonsbb.com

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Degas House h \\

2306 Esplanade Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 821-5009 Fax

x (504) 821-0870 Rooms 8 Map 2 C3
Painter Edgar Degas visited his American relatives here between 1872 and 1873. Guestrooms in the 1852 Italianate
house include a garret, but it’s not clear exactly which room Degas stayed in during his residency. The minimalist
decor serves to show off the fine lines of the house itself. www.degashouse.com

O’Malley House \\

120 S Pierce St, 70119 Tell (504) 488-5896 Fax

x (504) 483-3791 Rooms 8 Map 2 A3
One block off the Canal streetcar line, the O’Malley House is a marvel of elaborate Queen Anne-style architecture.
Restored inside and out, the inn offers antique-filled rooms, an excellent breakfast, and hosts who go out of their
way to make life interesting and easy for their guests. www.1896Omalleyhouse.com

Block-Keller House h \\\

3620 Canal St, 70119 Tell (877) 588-3033 Fax

x (504) 483-3032 Rooms 5 Map 2 A3
This magnificently restored Neo-Classical villa is on the Canal streetcar line, just a short ride from the French Quarter.
Built in 1912, it has beautiful gardens that have been restored since Hurricane Katrina. The innkeepers have two
dogs, happy to be your “pets away from home.” A generous breakfast is available. www.blockkellerhouse.com

House on Bayou Road h0S \\\

2275 Bayou Rd, 70119 Tell (504) 945-0992 Fax

x (504) 945-0993 Rooms 8 Map 2 C3
It’s hard to believe you are in the city at this B&B. Called a “petite plantation,” it is set on two acres of gardens.
Guests stay in elegant rooms with fireplaces, four-poster beds, libraries, private verandahs, and other delights.
A two-course gourmet plantation-style breakfast is offered each morning. www.houseonbayouroad.com

BEYOND NEW ORLEANS

BATON ROUGE Cook Hotel ehS÷ \\

3848 W Lakeshore Dr, Baton Rouge, 70808 Tell (866) 610-2665 Fax
x (225) 383-4200 Rooms 128
Nestled in the Louisiana State University campus, this hotel is primarily for students and conference attendees, but
others can stay as well. All suites have kitchens. There is a laundry facility, and a super pool and fitness center. It is
fun to stay on campus, and there is easy access to highways. www.thecookhotel.com

BATON ROUGE Stockade Bed & Breakfast Inn h \\

8860 Highland Rd, Baton Rouge, 70808 Tell (225) 769-7358 Fax
x (225) 769-7358 Rooms 5
Located on the grounds of a Civil War stockade, the grim name is belied by the expansive hospitality of the host.
The modern Spanish-styled house is airy and light. All rooms have private baths. Breakfast can be Continental or
enormous. The house is near the LSU campus. www.thestockade.com

EUNICE L’Acadie Inn h: \

259 Tasso Loop, Eunice, 70535 Tell (337) 457-5211 Rooms 14

The Pitre family has revamped a 1950s roadside motel into a Cajun inn. The motel rooms are strictly no-frills, but
they are clean and inexpensive. All the rooms have kitchenettes, which is very helpful in this country setting. The
Pitres love sharing their vast knowledge of Cajun life. www.hotboudin.com

LAFAYETTE Bois des Chênes Inn eh \

338 N Sterling St, Lafayette, 70501 Tell (337) 233-7816 Fax

x 337-233-7816 Rooms 5
The town of Lafayette has grown around this 1820s French plantation house. There are two suites in the main house
and three in the converted stables. All are furnished with period antiques. A full breakfast is served, and the helpful
hosts are encyclopedias of knowledge about the area.

LAFAYETTE T’Frere’s House h \\

1905 Verot School Rd, Lafayette, 70508 Tell (337) 984-9347 Rooms 8
Innkeepers Maugie and Pat Pastor serve lavish breakfasts in the morning and bottomless drinks in the evening.
Rooms in the main house and garden cottage are furnished with antiques. Ghost sightings are reported, but these
are of the amusing rather than malicious type. www.tfreres.com

NAPOLEONVILLE Madewood Plantation h \\\\\

4250 Hwy 308, Napoleonville, 70390 Tell (985) 369-7151 Rooms 10

Staying at Madewood is like being a houseguest during the plantation’s plush years. The bedrooms are beautifully
furnished with Louisiana antiques but are comfortable and welcoming. Dinner and breakfast are included, which
is helpful since the house is deep in the country. www.madewood.com

NEW IBERIA Estorge-Norton House h \

446 E Main St, New Iberia, 70560 Tell (337) 365-7603 Rooms 5
This lovingly maintained 1910 arts and crafts villa makes a nice change from plantation sites. It is in the New Iberia
historic district, close to all the main sites. Rooms are furnished with American antiques. Three of the rooms have
shared baths. A lavish breakfast is served in the dining room. www.bbhost.com

Key to Price Guide see p162 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
 W H E R E T O S T AY 169

NEW IBERIA La Maison B&B h \

8317 Weeks Island Rd, New Iberia, 70560 Tell (337) 364-2970 Rooms 2
The house looks suburban, but the atmosphere is pure Cajun. Hostess Eleanor Naquin serves heroic breakfasts
and loves to arrange for guests to have a full immersion into Acadian life. Pets are welcome, but children must
be at least 12 and “well behaved.”

NEW IBERIA Rip Van Winkle House & Gardens h \\\

5505 Rip Van Winkle Road, New Iberia, 70560 Tell (337) 359-8525 Fax
x (337) 359-8526 Rooms 2
Two small but roomy houses are available for overnight guests: Servants’ Quarters and Cook’s Cottage. Both date
from the estate’s early years. Furnished with four-poster beds, luxury linens, and kitchenettes, the cottages are
surrounded by acres of manicured gardens. www.ripvanwinklegardens.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE 3-V Tourist Court h0 \

5689 Commerce St, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 937-9533 Rooms 10
This 1920s motor court has been restored with taste and whimsy. The cabins are small, even tiny, but have period
furnishings and kitchenettes. The motor court is flanked by the excellent Magnolia Café and Birdman Coffeehouse
& Books, all owned by the same family.

ST. FRANCISVILLE Butler Greenwood Plantation hS \\

8345 Hwy 61, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 635-6312 Fax
x (225) 635-6370 Rooms 7
The same family has owned this plantation since 1796. The 1810 main building is an unpretentious family house
with centuries of history and is open for tours. Guests stay in one of seven cottages on the grounds, all with
antiques, kitchens, and individual character. www.butlergreenwood.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE Cottage Plantation hS \\

10528 Cottage Lane, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 635-3674 Rooms 7
Unlike many plantation B&Bs, visitors stay in the big house at Cottage. Indeed, it is a huge house, built in stages
between 1795 and 1859. There is also a cabin for guests. Rooms are furnished with antiques and have private
baths. Shopping alert – an antique store is located on the grounds. www.cottageplantation.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE Greenwood Plantation h \\

6838 Highland Rd, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 655-4475 Fax
x (225) 655-3292 Rooms 12
Staying in one of the modern cottages on the plantation grounds is an experience that anyone who loves solitude
will enjoy. Greenwood is deep in the countryside. The cottages are comfortable and clean. A tour of the main house
is occasionally included in the price. www.greenwoodplantation.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE Hemingbough Guesthouse h \\

10101 Hwy 965, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 635-6617 Rooms 8
There’s a slight tinge of Disneyland to this modern 240-acre (96-ha) Greek Revival retreat. Built in the 1990s, it hosts
meetings, weddings, and cultural events. Overnight guests stay in a replica antebellum house with modern amenities
and canopy beds. www.hemingbough.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE Shadetree Inn ¤h \\

Royal at Ferdinand St, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 635-6116 Fax
x (225) 635-0072 Rooms 3
The inn is on a small yet beautiful site, giving it a secret garden feel. The suites have a shabby-chic look that invites
you to cuddle up in a canopied bed or overstuffed chair. Breakfast is delivered to the rooms, which have microwaves
and fridges. Cocktails are served in the afternoons. www.shadetreeinn.com

ST. FRANCISVILLE The Myrtles Plantation h0 \\\

7747 Hwy 61, St. Francisville, 70775 Tell (225) 635-6277 Fax
x (225) 635-5837 Rooms 11
The B&B at this historically and architecturally significant mansion is wildly popular because of its reputation of being
haunted. Rooms in the main house and the caretaker’s cottage are reputedly the ghost hangouts. Night-time tours
of the house are given on weekends. www.myrtlesplantation.com

ST. MARTINVILLE The Old Castillo Hotel B&B h0÷ \

220 Evangeline Blvd, St. Martinville, 70582 Tell (337) 394-4010 Rooms 7
A stay at the Old Castillo is an absolute bargain. Located in the heart of charming Cajun country and built in 1827,
this restored building has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1978. Each room is beautifully and
luxuriously furnished with period antiques. Wi-Fi access available. www.oldcastillo.com

VACHERIE Oak Alley Plantation Bed & Breakfast h0 \\\

3645 Hwy 18 (Great River Road), Vacherie, 70090 Tell (225) 265-2151 Fax
x (225) 265-7035
5 Rooms 7
These charming cottages, adjacent to the Oak Alley Plantation, are offered in configurations of two, three, and
four bedrooms, all with private baths and kitchens. (The price range shown is for a two-bedroom cottage.)
A complimentary, if forgettable, breakfast is served in the plantation’s restaurant. www.oakalleyplantation.com

WHITE CASTLE Nottoway h0 \\

30970 Hwy 405, White Castle, 70788 Tell (866) 527-6884 Fax
x (225) 545-8632 Rooms 13
At Nottoway, guests may stay in the splendid 1859 home or a restored house on the grounds. Although you’ll have
to be up and out by tour time, staying in one of the plush rooms facing the river is the estate’s peak experience.
A full breakfast is served in an austere-looking basement room. www.nottoway.com
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170 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

RESTAURANTS, CAFES, AND BARS

E ven when other major cities in
the US were living in a culinary
wasteland, New Orleans
had a reputation for fine,
flavorful Creole cuisine. Today
argue about who sells the best oysters,
where to secure the finest turtle soup
or gumbo, who makes the best
po’boy (sandwich), bread pudding,
and so on. The same is true for
the reputation is still intact, but drinks. A pharmacist in the city
it has been enhanced by the invented the cocktail, and bartenders
development of “modern” Creole here are adept at making Sazeracs,
cuisine, Cajun cuisine, and some a range of mint juleps, and such
delicious ethnic dining as well. New Orleans hazardous concoctions as the
In this city, food matters; locals waiter Obituary Cocktail (see p174)
4.
food. Many hotels
have excellent dining
rooms open to the
public, and there are
various Italian deli-
catessens; these are
mainly in the lower
French Quarter, where
you can buy a salad
or a sandwich. Look
out for the famous
Lucky Dog hot dog
carts in the Quarter.

HOURS AND PRICES

Breakfast is usually
available between
7am and 11am and
Diners at the Acme Oyster House (see p176) can be inexpensive
or super-expensive –
PLACES TO EAT of good-quality restaurants the price often depends on
that are producing traditional where it is served. Jazz
Top-flight restaurants are found
T Creole and Cajun dishes – brunches, a New Orleans
throughout the city, particularly gumbo, oysters Rockefeller, tradition, are served between
in the French Quarter, the jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, 10am and 3pm on weekends
Warehouse District, and barbecue shrimp, and other and can cost anywhere
y
Uptown. Currently such chefs zesty specialties (see pp172–3). between $30 and $50.
as Susan Spicer, Emeril In addition, there are At lunchtime, you can buy
Lagasse, Frank Brigtsen, John Italian, Mediterranean, and a light meal for about $7 or
Besh, and others who are up- other ethnic restaurants, plus $10, usually between 11am
dating the traditional cuisine plenty of places for cheap, and 2:30pm. In the better
are generating the most good food, serving po’boys, restaurants, prices are lower
excitement. There are plenty New Orleans own muffuletta at lunchtime than at dinner.
(a special local Dinner is generally served
sandwich), pizza, and from 5 to 10pm, or until
the ubiquitous dish of 11pm on Friday or Saturday
red beans and rice with nights. At a moderately priced
sausage. New Orleans place, main dishes might
residents also care range from $14 to $24. In the
passionately about very best restaurants, like
coffee, and the city has Commander’s Palace or
many good coffee and Emeril’s, be prepared to spend
pastry shops. over $100 per person. A few
places are open all night.
OTHER PLACES
TO EAT DINING ON A BUDGET

New Orleans offers a Do not eat breakfast at

broad range of venues your hotel unless it is
Commander’s Palace (see p182), one of other than restaurants complimentary. Seek out a
the city’s finest restaurants in which to eat good coffee shop or deli and feast

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on delicious croissants and

strong coffee. At lunch, you
can pop into a corner grocery
and order a po’boy or
muffuletta, and picnic some-
where. If you do sit down in
a restaurant, you will find
prices are lower than at
dinner, as many establish-
ments offer discounted menus
early in the day. Otherwise,
you can save money by
ordering one course only
(which is usually enough) and
drinking less wine. Depending
on the hour, some restaurants
offer fixed-price menus that
are usually cheaper.

TAXES AND TIPPING The Upperline restaurant, filled with art (see p182)

A sales tax of 9 percent is you to wear the standard call ahead to determine
added to meal and beverages attire of jeans and T-shirt. precisely how accessible a
checks in all restaurants. In Several of the more upscale particular establishment is –
general, you should tip 15 restaurants require a jacket, whether there are steps out-
percent of the check for serv- and can also lend you one; side or inside, for example,
ice; 20 percent if the service ties are rarely required. Just or whether the bathrooms
is superb. When the service is to be on the safe side, dress are downstairs or upstairs.
very bad you need not tip at smart-casual.
all, but some restaurants auto-
matically add a tip, especially CHILDREN
for large groups, so check.
Children are welcome at
RESERVATIONS any restaurant, and special
facilities, such as booster seats
At the very best restaurants or highchairs, are usually
you will need to make available. Some restaurants
reservations considerably in offer special menus for chil-
advance. Some restaurants, dren. The legal drinking age
however, do not take reserva- is 21, and children are not
tions, and you will have to allowed in bars. The New Orleans Grill at the
stand in line or enjoy a cock- Windsor Court Hotel (see p180)
tail in the bar while you wait. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS
SMOKING
DRESS CODE Although since 1992 all
restaurants have been Smoking is prohibited in most
New Orleans is a relaxed city required by law to be wheel- Louisiana restaurants. Some
and most places will allow chair accessible, it is best to dining establishments that
qualify as bars are exempt
from the smoking ban, but
always ask before lighting up.

VEGETARIAN FOOD

As in the rest of the United

States, there is plenty of
scope for vegetarians to eat
well in New Orleans. Although
much Creole and Cajun food
is meat-based, most restau-
rants have vegetarian dishes
such as salads or meat-free
meals, if requested.
There are also exclusively
vegetarian restaurants around
town, plus Vietnamese and
Thai restaurants, where
People enjoying coffee and beignets at Café du Monde (see p176) vegetarian dishes are offered.

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172 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

The Flavors of New Orleans

New Orleans is one of America’s culinary capitals, with a
unique cuisine spawned by two distinct cultures: Creole
and Cajun. Creole is the legacy of refined, city-dwelling
descendants of the early French settlers. From the appli-
cation of classic French techniques to local produce, a rich,
sophisticated new cuisine was created. The Cajuns settled in
Louisiana after being ousted from both France and Acadia
(Nova Scotia), living in the bayous, hunting and fishing for
indigenous foods. Their traditional dishes are spicier, the
fiery seasonings tempered by long-simmering. A glossary
typical dishes and ingredients can be found on page 175.
chopped olives, olive oil, LOUISIANA PRODUCE
onions, cauliflower, and
garlic. It owes its origins One of the best-known Loui-
to Italian dock workers. siana products is crawfish
Another is the po’boy, a sub- (called crayfish elsewhere),
marine roll piled high with which are grown locally. They
roast beef, ham, shrimp, or breed in the muddy bayous
oysters, along with mustard, and ponds of Cajun country,
pickles, onions, herbs, and and are harvested in little
spices. You may be asked boats from December to May.
if you want your sandwich And oyster aficionados will
“dressed”, which will include tell you there’s nothing as
the addition of tomatoes, good as plump, salty Louisi-
lettuce, and mayonnaise. ana oysters on the half shell.
Shrimp Oysters Crab
A plate of luscious Louisiana Crawfish
crawfish on a bed of rice Crayfish

ONLY IN NEW ORLEANS

Several dishes are unique to

New Orleans. A breakfast of
beignetss (deep-fried, sugary-
sweet donuts) and chicory
coffee shows the French
influence. The city’s contri-
butions to sandwich culture
include the muffuletta, a
large, round roll containing
cold cuts of meat, Provolone
cheese and a dressing of Se

LOCAL DISHES AND SPECIALTIES

Both Cajun and Creole cooking often begin with
a roux, the base of many dishes including gumbos,
etouffées and sauces. A roux is simply
flour and oil, stirred constantly over a
flame until the right shade of brown for
each dish is achieved. The darker
the roux, the more intense the flavor.
is the deep, dark roux that gives a
distinctive smoky, nutty flavor to
gumbo. Every cook has his or her
Okra p
own gumbo recipe, but it always
begins with the roux used to thicken and flavor home-
made stock, and includes sausage, a “trinity” of onion,
celery, and bell pepper, scallions, cayenne pepper and a Jambalaya Similar to Spanish
sprinkling of filéé power (ground sassafras leaves) on the paella, this spicy rice dish may
top. Filéé is used to thicken as well as to season; another feature seafood, ham, chicken,
thickening is okra, which lends a silky texture to dishes. andouille, and more besides.
 R E S T A U R A N T S , C A F E S , A N D B A R S 173

HOT STUFF!

Peppery sauces are a staple

of Cajun cooking and a favo-
rite New Orleans souvenir.
Food shops offer as many as
40 varieties, from mild to
blazing hot, and some have
“tasting bars” where you can
sample before you buy.
Tabasco, made on a Louisiana
plantation since the 1800s, is
now a favorite world-wide.

Some key ingredients of New Orleans cuisine at the French Market CLASSIC DINING
Sassafras is a Native Ameri- Emeril Lagasse is the best Antoine’s Founded in 1840
can ingredient that features known of those bringing and filled with memorabilia.
Oysters Rockefeller was
strongly in New Orleans “nouveau” touches, includ- invented here (see p176).
cuisine, while okra was ing Asian influences, to
introduced by African slaves. classic dishes. Other Arnaud’s A maze of dining
Two local pork products creative new stars in the rooms decorated with theat-
show their French origins in city are Susan Spicer of rical panache. The jazz brunch
their names. Almost every Bayona (see p176); John is recommended (see p176).
Cajun chef has a personal Besh of Restaurant August Brennan’s Famous for turtle
recipe for boudin sausage, (see p180), and Donald Link soup, bananas Foster and the
a highly seasoned pork and at Herbsaint (see p179). decadently rich “Breakfast at
rice sausage. Andouillee is Brennan’s” (see p176).
another classic which, unlike
Commander’s Palace A
its French namesake, is a classic – don’t miss the bread
hard, spicy smoked Cajun pudding soufflé (see p182).
pork sausage.
Galatoire’s A 1905 landmark
OLD VERSUS NEW that still draws some of the
city’s best old families (see
p177).
The current culinary battle
in New Orleans pits the old The French Market This
school of traditional cooking outdoor and covered market
versus the new wave of chefs features superb fresh local
who want to innovate. One produce (see p70).
of the first to gain renown Bon Ton Café A downtown
was Paul Prudhomme, the old-timer that sticks to
creator of “blackened fish,” tradition with seafood
a dish that was never a part specialties and all the
of Cajun fare but is now Display of traditional Louisiana Creole favorites (see p179).
widely associated with it. hot pepper sauces

Crawfish Etouffée The name Gumbo Made with rice and Bananas Foster Bananas
means “smothered”, with okra, as well as chicken, sea- are sautéed in butter, sugar,
sautéd crawfish being served food or andouille, this Cajun and cinnamon, flamed in
in a thick, piquant sauce. soup is as thick as a stew. rum and served over ice.

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 174 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

What to Drink in New Orleans

A long tradition of good drinking is one of New
Orleans’ trademarks. There are a wide variety of
cocktails served throughout the city, some of which
were invented here. Delicious and easy to drink,
many are extremely potent concoctions. The local
beers are also worthy: New Orleans has a top-class
microbrewery. The city is a coffee-drinker’s delight
and has its own distinctive chicory-flavored dark roast Pat O’Brien’s (see p47), where the
coffee – a favorite of residents and visitors alike. popular Hurricane was created

COCKTAILS

New Orleans was the birthplace of many

cocktails. Local pharmacist Antoine
Peychaud’s store was located near the corner
of Royal and St. Louis streets, and he is said
to have invented the cocktail around 1830
when he combined cognac “Sazerac”
mixed with his own bitters recipe, a drop
of water, and a pinch of sugar. Peychaud
mixed this in an egg cup “coquetier,” which
his English-speaking customers mispro-
nounced as “cocktail.” Today, the Sazerac
The Sazerac The Hurricane Mint Julep is one of New Orleans’ most famous drinks:
rye whiskey (or bourbon) is combined with
bitters and sugar, and flavored with Pernod
and lemon peel.
The Hurricane, served in a special glass,
is very sweet and combines dark rum with
passion fruit and other juices. The Mint
Julep is made with bourbon, sugar, fresh
mint, and crushed ice. The Vieux Carré
mixes rye, cognac, vermouth, bitters, and
a dash of Benedictine. For the Obituary
Cocktail, a lethal drink created at Lafitte’s
(see p78), add half a jigger of Pernod to a
gin Martini. Bartender Henry Ramos shook
Vieux Carré Obituary Ramos Gin the first Ramos Gin Fizz in 1888, combining
Cocktail Cocktail Fizz sugar, orange flower water, citrus juice, gin,
egg white, cream, and seltzer into a refresh-
BEER AND WINE ing drink. Pousse Café is a mix of six cordials
– raspberry and maraschino syrups, crème de
New Orleans is a beer town. Look for such menthe, curaçao, chartreuse, and cognac.
local brews as Abita and Dixie, plus those
made by the microbrewery Crescent City COFFEE
Brewhouse. A variety of wines are
also available in the New Orleanians love coffee, and it comes
city’s restaurants, partic- in all roasts and styles. Community Coffee,
ularly fine French and French Market, and CDM
California vintages. are the three most
famous Louisiana brands.
The Café du Monde
(see p76) serves “café au
lait,” the traditional dark
roast chicory-flavored
coffee with hot milk.
If you don’t like the “Pure” coffee
somewhat bitter taste
of chicory, just ask for
“pure” coffee; you’ll
get a tasty cup of dark
or medium roast
coffee. Espresso,
Dixie and Abita Red and white extra-strong coffee,
Amber, local beers California wines is also available. Café espresso

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 C A F E S , A N D B A R S 175

Glossary of New Orleans Food

The distinctive cuisine of New Orleans has its own
vocabulary. Some styles and ingredients are particular
to Creole and Cajun cooking; others are more common
but take on that special Louisiana touch. Creole dishes
often have as their base peppers, onions, and
tomatoes, and can be more refined than the
flavorful Cajun one-pot dishes.

Andouille Crawfish or “Mudbugs” Vegetables and fruit for sale in the

A hard, smoked, spicy Cajun Also known as crayfish, these French Market
sausage made with pork. deliciously sweet, small
Bananas Foster crustaceans are prepared with granulated and colored
Bananas sprinkled with brown in various ways like stews, sugars. A tiny doll, repre-
sugar and flambéed in rum étouffée, or boiled (see p173). senting the baby Jesus, is
and banana liqueurr (see p173). Crawfish Boil hidden inside.
Barbecued Shrimp Crawfish boiled in water Maque Choux
Jumbo shrimp in their shells seasoned with A Cajun dish made with a
sautéed in oil and butter, mustard, coriander, mixture of corn, tomatoes,
garlic, peppers, and dill, cloves, all- onions, and cayenne pepper.
spices. spice, bay leaves, Mirliton
Beignet and the main ingre- A pear-shaped squash with
Deep-fried dient, dried chilies. prickly ribbed skin.
square doughnut Dirty Rice Muffuletta
(no hole), covered in Rice cooked with A sandwich combining Italian
powdered sugar. Ripe bananas, chicken livers and deli meats, and one or two
Biscuits used for desserts gizzards, and other kinds of cheese on an Italian
Flour and baking seasonings. round loaf slathered with
powder rolled and baked, Eggs Sardou olive salad – pickled olives,
often served with eggs at Eggs poached on artichoke celery, olive oil, carrots,
breakfast. bottoms, cradled on a bed cauliflower, and garlic.
Boudin of creamed spinach, and Okra
Highly seasoned Cajun pork covered with hollandaise. A pod vegetable, originally
sausage combined with rice. Etouffée from Africa, served as a side
Bouillabaisse New Orleans- Literally “smothered,” a dish or used in Cajun gumbos
style method of cooking slowly and stews.
A spicier version of the with little liquid, in a Pain Perdu
French seafood dish. covered pan. The local version of French
Cajun Filé toast (bread fried with eggs).
A style of cooking that Filé refers to the dried ground Po’Boy
combines French methods sassafras leaves used to A big French bread sandwich,
with local Southern thicken and flavor gumbos. with shrimp, oysters, ham,
ingredients. Grits roast beef, or a combination.
Calas Ground, cooked corn grains Pompano en Papillotte
Fried sweet rice cakes. served at breakfast with A sweet fish common
Chow Chow butter, salt, pepper, in Gulf waters, baked
A relish usually made with and eggs. in an oiled paper
green pickles, green tomatoes, Gumbo bag to retain its
and green cayenne peppers. A spicy, thick full flavor.
Courtbouillon of Redfish soup containing Pralines
A seafood stew, prepared shrimp, crawfish, A candy patty
with local fish, spices, and oysters, okra, and made with brown
white wine. served over rice Shrimp sugar and pecans.
(see p173). Cocktail Shrimp Remoulade
Gumbo z’Herbes Shrimp with a mayon-
A meatless version of gumbo, naise-based sauce seasoned
made during Lent. with mustard, anchovies,
Jambalaya gherkins, scallions, lemon,
A mixture of rice, seafood, spices, and herbs.
Tasso (ham), vegetables, Sweet Potato Pie
and seasoned with onion, Made with sweet potatoes
green peppers, and celery flavored with cinnamon,
(see p172). nutmeg, and ginger.
King Cake Tasso
Oranges and other fruits, used as A round cake made during Highly spiced smoked ham
ingredients in Creole food Mardi Gras. It is sprinkled seasoned with red pepper.

5/15/08 11:23:36 AM
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 176 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

For a three-course meal for one,
half a bottle of house wine and
The restaurants in this guide have been selected all unavoidable extra charges
across a wide range of price categories for their including tax:
\ under $25
exceptional food, good value, interesting location, \\ $25–$40
and attractive ambience. Within each area, entries \\\ $40–$55
are listed alphabetically within each price category, \\\\ $55–$70
\\\\\ over $70
from the least to the most expensive.

UPPER FRENCH Q
QUARTER

Café du Monde ¤:7Δ \

800 Decatur St, 70116 Tell (504) 525-4544 Map 5 D2

You cannot visit New Orleans without sampling beignets, and this is their home. The charming green- and white-
striped awnings beckon from blocks away, as does the smell of the chicory coffee and powdered sugar. Fried dough
dunked into milky coffee never tasted so good. They are open 24 hours.

Johnny’s Po-Boy ¤:7 \

511 St. Louis St, 70116 Tell (504) 524-8129 Map 4 C2

This is your standard po’boy shop and really one of the only decent ones in the French Quarter. They offer all
the standard stuffings such as fried seafood and cold cuts. The roast beef is especially good in a very messy way.
Locals like to order takeout as there is not much ambience, and the Riverwalk provides a nearby picnic spot.

Acme Oyster House :7 \\

724 Iberville St, 70130 Tell (504) 522-5973 Map 4 C3

The line usually snakes out the door for this popular seafood joint, and with good reason as the raw oysters are
big and fresh. A variety of dependably good fried seafood is on offer as well. However, the scene might seem a
bit touristy for those wanting a more authentic New Orleans experience.

Bourbon House Seafood & Oyster Bar :7 \\\

144 Bourbon St, 70130 Tell (504) 522-0111 Map 4 C3

This handsome brasserie, run by the Brennan family, is firmly focused on local seafood. Oysters are served raw,
topped with caviar, or broiled. The menu also includes classic renditions of New Orleans finfish and shrimp dishes,
seasonal seafood salads, and a few beef dishes. The bar specializes in fine bourbons.

Antoine’s :7 \\\\

713 St. Louis St, 70130 Tell (504) 581-4422 Map 4 C2

This old guard restaurant is the famed birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller and recalls days gone by with its beautiful
tiled floors and ceiling fans. The menu offers classic haute Creole fare that fits the setting. However, be forewarned
that some dishes might suffer from poor quality control as the years have taken their toll.

Arnaud’s :7f \\\\

813 Bienville St, 70112 Tell (504) 533-5433 Map 4 C2

The Mardi Gras museum at this palatial dining institution really rivals the cuisine. Upstairs, you will find all the grand
costumes of the former owner set amidst the finery of the many ornate dining rooms. The signature dish here is the
famed shrimp remoulade. Most of the menu will satisfy but not impress.

Bayona 7Δ \\\\

430 Dauphine St, 70112 Tell (504) 525-4455 Map 4 C2

Renowned chef Susan Spicer lives up to all expectations here at her flagship restaurant. The service, setting, and
menu embody elegance. It would be difficult to order badly, but signature dishes such as her quail salad and
legendary sweetbreads are sure to please. The wine list is also excellent, so take your time going through it.

Bistro at Maison de Ville Δ \\\\

727 Toulouse St, 70130 Tell (504) 528-9206 Map 4 C2

Modeled after the cafés of Paris, the mirror-lined, romantic dining room here is the perfect showcase for superior,
contemporary Creole cuisine with classic French and Italian touches. When the weather allows it, ask for a table in
the lush courtyard, which makes a beautiful, intimate setting for a fine meal.

Brennan’s :7 \\\\

417 Royal St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-9711 Map 4 C2

This is the original restaurant of the Brennan’s dining empire, and its brunch continues to romance visitors and locals
alike. You should expect a wait (even with reservations), and service can be a bit unreliable. But everyone loves the
Bananas Foster cooking demonstration, which is a Brennan’s creation.

Key to Symbols see back cover flap

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K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen :7Δ \\\\

416 Chartres St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-7394 Map 4 C2

Chef Paul Prudhomme introduced the world to the cuisine of South Louisiana back in the 1980s when he reigned
supreme over the New Orleans restaurant scene. This place still draws crowds, but the prices seem a bit inflated.
However, this is a landmark restaurant and should be given due respect.

Nola :7 \\\\

534 St. Louis St, 70130 Tell (504) 522-6652 Map 4 C2

This is the most downscale of chef Emeril Lagasse’s restaurants, but still expect haute cuisine and high prices. Things
are a bit funkier here with more fusion dishes and less formal service. Reservations are also easier to come by as the
huge space seats hundreds. An especially enjoyable table is located near the open kitchen.

Galatoire’s :7 \\\\\

209 Bourbon St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-2021 Map 4 C3

The pomp and circumstance of this blue blood favorite are what make it so wonderful, and of all the old
restaurants this one serves the best dishes. The menu is made up of Creole classics such as trout amandine,
which never fail to please the palate. Expect a wait to sit in the esteemed dining room downstairs.

LOWER FRENCH Q
QUARTER AND MARIGNY

Central Grocery :7 \

923 Decatur St, 70116 Tell (504) 523-1620 Map 5 D2

This classic New Orleans grocery and deli offers just one prepared food item – the famed muffuletta, an Italian
sandwich loaded with meat, cheese, and olive salad. You can enjoy this beauty in the store or take it to the nearby
riverfront for a picnic. The walls are lined with jars filled with Italian delicacies such as roasted peppers and anchovies.

Clover Grill :7 \

900 Bourbon St, 70116 Tell (504) 598-1010 Map 5 D1

The fun never stops at this quirky diner where the flamboyant staff turns on the charm constantly. Plus, the burgers
are cooked under hubcaps to juicy perfection, and they actually serve malt milkshakes, taking you back to the golden
days – just set to a different tune. Expect a cabaret atmosphere.

Croissant d’Or Patisserie :7 \

617 Ursulines Ave, 70116 Tell (504) 524-4663 Map 5 D1

You will imagine that you have stepped into Paris when you enter this little bakery. Their buttery pastries are out-
standing. They also serve some sandwiches and salads, but the sweets are really the way to go. The eclairs and tarts
warm the heart, and the early morning sunshine casts a spell that is sure to charm. Great for an early breakfast.

The Joint :7Δ \

801 Poland Ave, 70117 Tell (504) 949-3232

The quirky charm of the Bywater neighborhood comes across strong at this little barbecue joint. The bright decor,
hip jukebox, and the smokey meats all work together. Ask about specials that might not be on the menu, such as
the smoked bowl of tangy coleslaw topped with shredded pork. Also sip on a Rattler for good measure.

Verti Marte :7 \

1201 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 525-4767 Map 5 D1

If you need some good ol’ greasy grub after an exhausting day in the Quarter, head to this corner store where take-
out rules. Whether you prefer a traditional po’boy or an original creation such as the shrimp cheesesteak, you will be
satisfied. The prepared salads can vary in quality, but the mac and cheese is a solid choice.

Adolfo’s \\

611 Frenchmen St, 70116 Tell (504) 948-3800 Map 5 E1

Perched above a bar and overlooking the lively nightlife of Frenchmen Street, Adolfo’s is a funky neighborhood café
where value and flavor take precedence over creature comforts. The tiny open kitchen produces a mix of classic,
casual Italian fare and local seafood, with a large selection of fish.

Bennachin :7 \\

1212 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 522-1230 Map 5 D1

A sweet family runs this African restaurant, and they are definitely part of the charm. There is also the quaint
storefront and heartwarming dishes that are sure to win you over. The menu provides plenty of vegetarian options
such as the addictive plantains and sautéed spinach. Carnivores should try a meaty stew or the grilled chicken.

Coop’s Place :7 \\

1109 Decatur St, 70116 Tell (504) 525-9053 Map 5 D1

This is the hidden gem of the Quarter where quality and affordable food can be a challenge. Here, the loaded
jambalaya, enormous sandwiches, and superbly greasy cheese fries always hit the spot. The local clientele adds to
the ambience with plenty of eccentric characters who have stories to tell. It is also a good watering hole.

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Eat New Orleans : \\

900 Dumaine St, 70116 Tell (504) 522-7222 Map 4 C1

For a quick sandwich or a hearty meal of New Orleans staples like jambalaya and barbecue shrimp, this bright,
stylish, and relaxed café is a solid bet and the prices are very reasonable. Eat New Orleans is also a good place for a
casual Sunday brunch. A bring-your-own-bottle policy is encouraged.

El Gato Negro :7Δ \\

81 French Market Pl, 70116 Tell (504) 525-9752 Map 5 E1

Built in a former French Market icehouse, El Gato Negro is the spot for authentic Mexican fare. Tacos, burritos, and
enchiladas are made according to traditional Mexican recipes, and fish, steak, and chicken entrées have elaborate
preparations. The carrot juice margaritas are uncommonly refreshing. Mexican breakfasts are served on weekends.

Elizabeth’s Restaurant :7Δ \\

601 Gallier St, 70117 Tell (504) 944-9272

This homely diner is under new ownership, but all remains the same with their hearty breakfast and lunch fare. In the
morning, try the praline, bacon, and stuffed French toast; at midday the po’boys or plate lunches are the way to go.
Saturday means an all-day brunch with over-the-top egg dishes and huge lines. No reservations.

Fiorella’s :7f \\

1136 Decatur St, 70116 Tell (504) 528-9566 Map 5 D1

If you are craving fried chicken in the Quarter, you should seek out this friendly, no-frills eatery. Everything on the
menu is a safe bet, but highlights are the fried pickles, mac and cheese, and the stupendeous chicken. Their Italian
fare is tasty as well, and they offer great deals on buckets of beer. Check out breakfast on the weekends.

Mimi’s f \\

2601 Royal St, 70117 Tell (504) 942-0690 Map 5 F1

This tapas bar serves authentic Spanish treats such as marinated olives, sharp cheeses, and plenty of affordable
wine. There are also hot dishes, but the cold fare seems of better quality. Enjoy these nibbles while gazing down
onto quiet neighborhood streets. On weekends, they also have great dance parties that take place late at night.

Monaghan’s 13 7 \\

517 Frenchmen St, 70116 Tell (504) 942-1345 Map 5 E1

Monaghan’s offers quick and easy bar food that will fuel you for a night of dancing in the neighboring music
clubs. The menu leans toward greasy vegetarian, such as a roasted vegetable sandwich or a pita pizza. The loaded
Tater Tots are especially satisfying, and their Bloody Mary could well be a cure for whatever ails you.

Napoleon House :7Δ \\

500 Chartres St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-9752 Map 4 C2

The charming courtyard in this historic building sets the mood for sipping the café’s signature drink of a Pimm’s
cup. While some might doubt the ability of a New Orleans bar to pull off such a decidedly British drink, here they
succeed. The refreshing Pimm’s perfectly complements the muffuletta. Other menu items pale in comparison.

Port of Call : \\

838 Esplanade Ave, 70116 Tell (504) 523-0120 Map 5 D1

The line usually streams out of the door at this famed burger joint. Both locals and visitors love the strong rum drinks
and super thick burgers. Serious eaters also go for the loaded baked potato that rivals the burger in size. The beach bar
feel seems to encourage copious eating and drinking, and there are always interesting scenes as the night progresses.

Sukho Thai :Δ \\

1913 Royal St, 70116 Tell (504) 948-9309 Map 5 E1

Good Thai is hard to come by in New Orleans, and this quality Marigny place is a gem. The ingredients are always
fresh, and the spice is just right. Their BYOB policy makes for a fun time with friends, especially at one of the side-
walk tables. Best bets are the soups, curries, and desserts. The coconut black rice pudding really tickles the palate.

Feelings Café 7fΔ \\\

2600 Chartres St, 70117 Tell (504) 945-2222 Map 5 F1

The courtyard at this neighborhood fine-dining eatery positively seduces, especially on picturesque spring and fall
evenings. The menu offers traditional New Orleans dishes such as fried oysters and barbecue shrimp. There are no
surprises to blow your mind, but that’s what makes this spot a classic. Try the peanut butter pie for dessert.

Meauxbar Bistro 7 \\\

942 N Rampart St, 70116 Tell (504) 569-9979 Map 4 C1

With a flourish of bright Caribbean yellow on the outside and stylish Art Deco touches on the inside, Meauxbar
can be either an upscale spin on the neighborhood joint serving burgers, pasta dishes, and fish and chips, or a
fine dining destination for traditional French bistro cuisine, fusion-style dishes, and great home-made ice cream.

Irene’s Cuisine :7f \\\\

539 St. Phillip St, 70116 Tell (504) 529-8811 Map 5 D2

You will smell the aroma of garlic long before you see the doors, and that’s a good sign. The mostly Italian fare of
this romantic Quarter hideout boasts strong flavors that really satisfy the appetite. Locals and visitors alike line up
early as reservations are not taken. Try to go on a weeknight as weekends mean a long wait, but it is worth it.

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Marigny Brasserie :7Δ \\\\

640 Frenchmen St, 70116 Tell (504) 945-4472 Map 5 E1

Here, you will find seasonal dishes prepared with a light touch. The large windows that look out on the ever-
happening Frenchmen Street provide plenty of entertainment as you enjoy a quiet meal. The wine list is ample,
and the waitstaff are quick to answer any questions. The inviting bar is an ideal spot for drinks and music.

Muriel’s :7 \\\\

801 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 568-1885 Map 5 D2

The appearance of this upscale Jackson Square eatery might seem a bit much for a new guard restaurant as there
is an abundance of lavish decorations. Still, devotees swear that the cuisine lives up to the look. Popular dishes
include an appetizer of crawfish and goats’ cheese crêpe and an entrée of pecan-crusted puppy drum.

Peristyle 7 \\\\

1041 Dumaine St, 70116 Tell (504) 593-9535 Map 4 C1

Since chef Anne Kearney sold this elegant venue to chef Tom Wolfe, the menu has changed a bit. Kearney’s feminine
touch seen throughout the kitchen and dining area is now shadowed by Wolfe’s strong approach. His credentials go
back to Emeril’s, and the dishes bear that heavy signature. Order a good robust red and embrace the abundance.

Stella! \\\\

1032 Chartres St, 70116 Tell (504) 587-0091 Map 5 D1

This quaint Quarter restaurant offers excellent food and service in charming environs. The menu changes with the
seasons, but expect lots of local seafood that is often prepared with an Asian twist. The risotto is a standout. The
wine list might not be as extensive as some of the other major fine-dining establishments, but it is good quality.

WAREHOUSE AND CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICTS

Commerce Restaurant ¤:7 \

300 Camp St, 70130 Tell (504) 561-9239 Map 4 C3

There is nothing like a hearty breakfast of a tasty po’boy from a bonafide lunch counter. The long narrow room with
plenty of gleaming metal harks back to days of old, and many regulars could probably tell you a tale or two from
that era. They could also fill you in on the best dishes such as red beans on Mondays. Closed on weekends.

Horinoya :7 \\

920 Poydras St, 70112 Tell (504) 561-8914 Map 4 B4

The seafood is impeccable at this hidden sushi bar. The business crowd knows the secret for lunch, but in the evening
you will have the Zen environs to yourself. The rolls are excellent, and the cooked fare impresses as well. Be daring
and try an exotic item as you can count on freshness. Go with a group and dine in the traditional back dining rooms.

Mother’s Restaurant :7 \\

401 Poydras St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-9656 Map 4 C4

People stand in line for hours at this 60-something-year-old restaurant to dine on traditional po’boys such as the
signature roast beef that locals call “debris”. Devotees swear by the gravy on this sandwich, but detractors claim
that it is not worth the wait. Just be sure to go as early as possible.

Bon Ton Café :7 \\\

401 Magazine St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-3386 Map 4 C4

This historic downtown restaurant is a favorite among the old-school business lunch crowd with its traditional New
Orleans fare. Dishes such as shrimp Creole and crawfish étouffée give you a taste from the past. You can always count
on fresh, Louisiana seafood and courteous servers. The dated atmosphere fits the golden age sentiment perfectly.

Grand Isle Restaurant :7Δ \\\

575 Convention Center Blvd, 70130 Tell (504) 520-8530 Map 4 C4

Grand Isle focuses on local staples, such as fried seafood, grilled fish, boiled shrimp, raw oysters, and po’boys, all
prepared with a higher degree of polish than other neighborhood restaurants – and with higher prices to match.
A dining room decorated with cypress trees and a gleaming marble bar top gives the place a vintage feel.

Herbsaint 7Δ \\\

701 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 524-4114 Map 4 B4

There is simply nothing better than a menu that showcases quality ingredients paired thoughtfully, and that is the case
with every dish at this elegant bistro. The “small plates” give you the opportunity to try a variety, and that’s really the
best plan of action as everything impresses. Their signature shrimp bisque and perfect frites are not to be missed.

Palace Café :7fΔ \\\

605 Canal St, 70130 Tell (504) 523-1661 Map 4 C3

This Brennan’s establishment is in an historic storefront that has been renovated beautifully. Appetizers include a
crabmeat cheesecake and an oyster pan roast. Popular entrées are the andouille crusted fish and catfish pecan
meunière. Their white chocolate bread pudding has become legendary in a short time. Brunch is always lively.

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Cuvée 7 \\\\

322 Magazine St, 70130 Tell (504) 587-9001 Map 4 C4

An excellent choice for an extravagant dinner, the menu provides many options that change with the seasons.
You can always expect the focus to be on fresh local ingredients such as Louisiana seafood. The foie gras appetizer
is supposedly a permanent fixture and a must try. The wine list also impresses both in quality and variety.

Restaurant August 7 \\\\

301 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 Tell (504) 299-9777 Map 4 C3

Chef John Besh deserves the accolades he receives for his flagship restaurant. He approaches all dishes with an
artist’s touch and demands the same attention to detail from his well-versed staff. Recommendations are difficult
as the menu changes with the seasons, but there is really no chance of misordering given the level of excellence.

RioMar :7 \\\\

800 S. Peters St, 70130 Tell (504) 525-3474 Map 4 C5

Dedicated to serving delicious, fresh seafood, chef Adolfo Garcia succeeds admirably here. His Spanish heritage shines
throughout the menu, but especially on dishes such as the ceviche sampler and all the paellas. The somewhat bare inte-
rior can increase the noise level, but the food makes up for any such shortcomings. Try a traditional Spanish dessert.

Tommy’s Cuisine : \\\\

746 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 Tell (504) 581-1103 Map 4 C4

There is a long story behind the connection between this Warehouse District newcomer and Irene’s in the Quarter,
but suffice it to say that the menus are similar. Here, you can count on Italian cuisine with a New Orleans flair (just
like Irene’s) but in a recently renovated atmosphere. The tiled floors and dark wood set the mood for a real feast.

Emeril’s 7 \\\\\

800 Tchoupitoulas St, 70130 Tell (504) 528-9393 Map 4 C5

This is the original location where the now celebrity chef made his name, and, consequently, utmost care is taken
with every detail. Chef Emeril innovatively and deliciously blends different styles of cooking such as Southwestern
and New England. The staff is efficient, and the menu should impress most.

New Orleans Grill 7 \\\\\

300 Gravier St, 70130 Tell (504) 522-1992 Map 4 C3

The flagship restaurant of the elegant Windsor Court Hotel (see p165) maintains a high standard of opulence in its
formal dining rooms, with elaborate floral arrangements and white-glove service. The menu is a mix of contemporary
Creole cuisine and some tamer fare for less adventurous diners.

GARDEN DISTRICT AND UPTOWN

Café Reconcile :7 \

1631 Oretha Castle Haley Blvd, 70113 Tell (504) 568-1157 Map 8 A2
There is nothing like combining a good cause with good food, and that is just the case at this central city eatery.
Local kids learn about the restaurant industry while providing you with food such as fried chicken, and mac and
cheese. On Thursdays, their white beans and shrimp draw diners from all over the city. Do not skip the cornbread.

Camellia Grill ¤: \

626 S Carrollton Ave, 70118 Tell (504) 309-2679 Map 6 A1

This landmark New Orleans diner was resurrected after Hurricane Katrina by new owners who made a few sensible
behind-the-scenes upgrades but left the classic ambience and menu of omelettes and burgers unchanged. Seating
is at the counter only, and the line to get in can be long, but the high-spirited servers make the wait worthwhile.

Chez Nous :Δ \

5701 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-7303 Map 6 C4

The prepared food at this gourmet-to-go shop is as close to New Orleans home cooking as you can come by without
knocking on someone’s door. Everyday means a different special such as seafood gumbo, grillades and grits, or
shrimp Creole. There are also many prepared salads and a variety of cakes and pies. Limited dining space.

Domilise’s ¤:7 \

5240 Annunciation St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-9126 Map 6 C5

Most Uptown locals swear that these are the best po’boys in town, and it is a good argument considering the fresh
local seafood is fried to perfection. Plus, the family atmosphere makes you feel right at home crowded around small
tables bumping elbows with regular customers. If seafood isn’t your thing, try the roast beef.

Joey K’s :7 \

3001 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 891-0997 Map 7 F4

Although located on the edge of the elegant Garden District, this casual corner joint offers food from the humble
but delicious traditions of Creole pot cooking. The daily blackboard specials feature comfort food classics at bargain
prices. Wash them down with a beer or margarita served in a huge, frozen-schooner glass.

Key to Price Guide see p176 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

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The Grocery :Δ \

2854 St. Charles Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 895-9524 Map 7 F3

The pressed sandwiches provide a welcome reprieve from po’boys. The Cuban is a classic, but the veggie melt is also
good. Their gumbo also impresses, especially when eaten with a scoop of potato salad in lieu of rice. The salads are
topped with homemade dressings, and the cookies and brownies are tempting. Lunch only and closed on Sundays.

St. James Cheese Co. :Δ \

5004 Prytania St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-4737 Map 7 D4

An astounding array of imported and domestic artisanal cheeses has earned St. James a reputation as one of the
most ambitious cheese shops in the South. Take a courtyard seat for a pressed sandwich or cheese board at lunch,
or sample the imported and locally made charcuterie items. BYOB is easy with a wine shop right next door.

Casamento’s ¤:7 \\

4330 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 895-9761 Map 7 E4

This is the quintessential oyster bar to the point that it closes when the salty bivalves are out of season in June, July,
and August. The raw oysters are undoubtedly a must, but the sandwiches and stew also prove quite tasty. The
atmosphere plays a major role as the spotless white tiles covering the floors and walls really set the perfect tone.

Franky & Johnny’s :7 \\

321 Arabella St, 70118 Tell (504) 899-9146 Map 6 C4

Uptown families pile into this friendly neighborhood joint that specializes in fried and boiled seasonal seafood. There
is also an element of New Orleans-Italian cuisine, but that pales in comparison to the ocean fare. Po’boys and fried
platters are the best, and you must start with some fried bell pepper rings.

Saltwater Grill :7fΔ \\

1340 S Carrollton Ave, 70118 Tell (504) 324-6640 Map 6 A1

Veterans of the Brennan’s empire opened this seafood restaurant and oyster bar beneath the romantic Carrollton
Avenue oak trees. They renovated an old building into a family eatery. The oyster bar always pleases, and the po’boys
are some of the best in the area thanks to fresh local seafood. An excellent choice for those traveling with children.

Surrey’s Juice Bar ¤:7 \\

1418 Magazine St, 70130 Tell (504) 524-3828 Map 8 B3

Healthy eating is not a top priority in New Orleans, but this hip little café makes it fun. Their fresh fruit juices will set
you straight after a late night, and the Latin-influenced brunch fare always hits the spot. There are many vegetarian
options, including a stellar eggplant muffuletta. Open for breakfast and lunch only. Go early on the weekends.

Theo’s :7 \\

4218 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 894-8554 Map 7 E4

The pizza here is supposedly St. Louis style, meaning that the crust is somewhere between Chicago and New York.
Whatever the definition, the pizza rocks, especially specialties such as the Jammer. Their wings prove an excellent
starter, and root beer floats or chocolate cake make for a perfect ending. The young owners are always very friendly.

Whole Foods :7Δ \\

5600 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-9119 Map 6 C4

If you are ever in a hunger emergency, Whole Foods can surely bail you out. Their wide variety of prepared foods run
the gamut from sushi to pizza, and their bakery is exceptional. Of course, you can also stock up on some gourmet
groceries and fine wine. Just beware of the parking lot at this location as the small confines can be quite tight.

Ye Olde College Inn :7 \\

3000 S Carrollton Ave, 70118 Tell (504) 866-3683 Map 1 B4

This 1930s stalwart has seen enormous change since a new owner took over and Hurricane Katrina forced a move
to an adjacent address. Yet the down-home New Orleans feel remains intact, with the same regulars lining the bar
and families still filling the dining room for foot-long oyster loaves and hamburger steaks.

Dick & Jenny’s :7f \\\

4501 Tchoupitoulas St, 70115 Tell (504) 894-9880 Map 7 E5

There is a no reservations policy at this Uptown eatery, but the excellent, upscale, and funky food is well worth the
wait. The husband and wife team offers creative local cuisine that changes with the seasons, and the staff always
knows the ins-and-outs of the menu. The cheerful surroundings add to the good time evoked by the standout food.

La Crêpe Nanou :7 \\\

1410 Robert St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-2670 Map 7 D4

The authentic European café feel of this Uptown charmer keeps it packed. The menu is classic French bistro with
excellent mussels and frites, and, in fact, the whole selection is good. They are only open for dinner, and the crowds
come early. Going on Sunday is especially inviting since many other places are closed. Save room for a dessert crêpe.

Brigtsen’s \\\\

723 Dante St, 70118 Tell (504) 861-7610 Map 6 A1

Earning his stripes under the tutelage of none other than Paul Prudhomme, chef Frank Brigtsen’s credentials
propelled his namesake restaurant into the spotlight, where it has stayed. He is an avid Louisiana sportsman
and always offers an array of local seafood and game. A charming Uptown house provides the perfect setting.

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Clancy’s :7 \\\\

6100 Annunciation St, 70118 Tell (504) 895-1111 Map 6 B5

This neighborhood fine-dining restaurant is a favorite among blue blood New Orleanians who love the dependable
food and service. The menu rarely changes, which these diners love. Popular items include the oysters with brie,
smoked soft shell crab, and peppermint ice cream. The highly experienced staff will be happy to assist you.

Dante’s Kitchen :7Δ \\\\

736 Dante St, 70118 Tell (504) 861-3121 Map 6 A1

A Commander’s Palace veteran opened this Riverbend eatery to showcase local ingredients prepared in a refined yet
approachable fashion. The historic home setting provides the perfect backdrop for starters such as shrimp and grits
with redeye gravy. Popular entrées include the trois mignons (three beef filets) and the falafel crusted fish.

Eleven79 7 \\\\

1179 Annunciation St, 70130 Tell (504) 299-1179 Map 8 B2

This tucked away, swanky Italian restaurant feels a bit like a gangster movie set, and the cuisine lives up to those
high standards. Regulars recommend the Oysters Panaré as an appetizer (panéed d oysters topped with caviar) and
the Veal Eleven79 (topped with peppers, mozzarella, and asparagus) wins as an entrée. Finish with tiramisu.

Gautreau’s \\\\

1728 Soniat St, 70115 Tell (504) 899-7397 Map 7 D3

This upscale neighborhood eatery always keeps a professional staff. Chefs seem to earn accolades here and then
move on – making way for more young talent. The menu changes with the seasons, but your server’s opinion
should be trusted concerning all food and wine recommendations. Great for a date.

Iris Δ \\\\

8115 Jeannette St, 70118 Tell (504) 862-5848 Map 6 B1

Award-winning chef Ian Schnoebelen combines California cuisine with haute Continental techniques at this Uptown
jewel. Only the freshest ingredients are used, including local seafood and Asian vegetables. The cottage setting is
intimate and inviting, the staff are sharp, and the bar menu has cocktails made with fresh juices.

Lilette 7Δ \\\\

3637 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 895-1636 Map 7 E4

Chef John Harris received immediate and deserved recognition when he opened this stylish, haute eatery. The
marrow toast sends shivers up the spine, and the pork belly happily overwhelms. The menu rarely changes, and
faulty ordering is simply not possible as all is cooked to perfection. The cocktail menu is just as impressive.

Martinique Bistro 7Δ \\\\

5908 Magazine St, 70115 Tell (504) 891-8495 Map 6 B4

The courtyard alone is enough to keep Uptowners coming back to Martinique again and again. The pleasant tropical
setting complements the menu of approachable, eclectic French fare perfectly. Seafood dishes such as bouillabaisse
are standouts. This is a perfect location for a romantic dinner away from the downtown bustle. Linger over dessert.

Pascal’s Manale :7 \\\\

1838 Napoleon Ave, 70115 Tell (504) 895-4877 Map 7 D3

This is supposedly the birthplace of the legendary barbecue shrimp and worth a visit. The beautiful old oyster bar
is also notable, but don’t expect too much from other parts of the menu. This would be a nice spot to tickle your
appetite before enjoying entrées elsewhere. It is just a few blocks from the St. Charles Avenue streetcar.

Patois 7Δ \\\\

6078 Laurel St, 70115 Tell (504) 895-9441 Map 6 B5

This former bar room has been beautifully transformed into an artfully designed Uptown gourmet destination.
Louisiana regional dishes take center stage, but there are plenty of influences from French, Italian, and Spanish
cuisines as well. The restaurant can get very loud at dinner, though Sunday brunch is a more laid-back affair.

Upperline \\\\

1413 Upperline St, 70115 Tell (504) 891-9822 Map 7 D4

Everyone loves the classic Creole fare at this quirky, yet upscale restaurant. They claim to have invented the fried
green tomato topped with shrimp remoulade that you see all over the city, and it is entirely possible considering how
long owner JoAnn Clevenger and chef Ken Smith have been perfecting the art. Go hungry and order every course.

Commander’s Palace 7fΔ \\\\\

1403 Washington Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 899-8221 Map 7 F3

The Brennan family set the standard for New Orleans fine dining when they opened this culinary palace in the 1970s.
An extensive renovation after Hurricane Katrina has left the restaurant looking fresher and brighter, while the cuisine
remains a blend of Creole classics with innovative twists. The jazz brunch is an especially celebratory meal here.

Emeril’s Delmonico 7f \\\\\

1300 St. Charles Ave, 70130 Tell (504) 525-4937 Map 8 A2

This historic New Orleans restaurant came under Emeril’s wing at the turn of the millennium, and he has made great
strides in renovating the grand old place. Both the atmosphere and the menu offer some of the old while enlivening
things with just enough new. The menu changes with the current chef de cuisine, but the aged steaks are a definite win.

Key to Price Guide see p176 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

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Angelo Brocato’s Ice Cream & Confectionary :7 \

214 N Carrollton Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 486-1465 Map 2 A3

This traditional Sicilian ice-cream parlor has been a New Orleans institution for more than a century. The wide assortment
of flavors includes specialties like tiramisu, pistachio, and the best-selling lemon flavor, while fresh, local fruit is made
into Italian ices (a type of sorbet). An old, brass espresso-maker produces great coffee drinks.

Juan’s Flying Burrito :7Δ \

4724 S Carrollton Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 486-9950 Map 2 A3

A rock ‘n’ roll vibe and family-friendly atmosphere mix at this neighborhood cantina just off the Canal streetcar
route. Fat California-style burritos are the specialty of the house, although local shrimp and fish, Caribbean jerk
chicken, and plenty of vegetarian choices add variety to the tortilla-based menu.

K-Jean’s Seafood : \

224 N Carrollton Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 488-7503 Map 2 A2

Amenities may be slim to nil at this take-out-only seafood market, but the heady aroma of boiling shrimp, crabs, or
crawfish is enough to ensure a constant flow of customers. Get a po’boy or a few pounds of spicy, boiled, seasonal
seafood, and make a picnic of it at nearby City Park.

Willie Mae’s Scotch House ¤:7 \

2401 St. Ann St, 70119 Tell (504) 822-9503 Map 2 C3

Located in a rather unsavoury part of town (take a taxi), this eatery is famous for its Southern soul food. The Scotch
House suffered extensive damage as a result of Hurricane Katrina, but the local community rallied together for a
clean-up operation, and the restaurant reopened to great fanfare in 2007. Open lunchtimes only, Mon–Sat.

Dooky Chase :7 \\

2301 Orleans Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 821-0600 Map 2 C3

Chef Leah Chase deserves utmost recognition for her famed restaurant that was considered by many as the head-
quarters of the New Orleans Civil Rights movement. Her food is classic Creole cuisine, serving very good gumbo
and delicious fried chicken. Non-natives might want to take a cab as the neighborhood can intimidate.

Liuzza’s by the Track : \\

1518 N Lopez St, 70119 Tell (504) 218-7888 Map 2 C2

This is the consummate neighborhood restaurant. The staff are friendly, and the menu offers an array of very original
po’boys and salads. Their gumbo is reminiscent of a home kitchen, and the french fries simply must be ordered. Add
gigantic frozen beers and loaded Bloody Marys to the mix, and you have got a recipe for a great time.

Liuzza’s Restaurant and Bar :7 \\

3636 Bienville Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 482-9120 Map 2 A3

This is no relation to the restaurant of the same name, but they do resemble in quality of food and service. Here, you
find perfectly fried seafood and hearty New Orleans-Italian fare. The fried pickles or onion rings are good starters,
and you should order the stuffed artichoke. They also serve giant frozen beers, and the peanut butter pie is a must.

Lola’s ¤:7 \\

3312 Esplanade Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 488-6946 Map 2 B2

The BYOB policy makes this bustling spot all the more fun. They do not take reservations, and there is usually a wait,
meaning plenty of time to sip wine before dinner. They serve authentic gazpacho that goes well with crusty French
bread smeared with the super garlic butter. Paellas are the entrées to order, if in a group. Not open for lunch.

Parkway Bakery & Tavern :7fΔ \\

538 N Hagan Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 482-3047 Map 2 B3

This relative newcomer on the po’boy scene resides by the picturesque Bayou St. John, which is nice to walk along
before or after chewing on some fried seafood. You could even order takeout and picnic beside the waterway.
Especially try the messy roast beef po’boy. Check out the historic architectural details from its days as a bakery.

Café Degas 7Δ \\\

3127 Esplanade Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 945-5635 Map 2 B2

The white twinkle lights will catch your eye immediately, and that is just the beginning of the charm. Trees actually
grow through the dining room of this little bistro where classic French café food abounds. There is French onion soup,
quiche, and pâté. More substantial dishes include veal cheeks and duck. Close to the New Orleans Museum of Art.

Café Minh 7 \\\

4139 Canal St, 70119 Tell (504) 482-6266 Map 2 A3

Chef/owner Minh Bui moved from Vietnam to New Orleans at a young age and spent many years working behind
the scenes at the city’s top Creole restaurants. His own restaurant features a deft fusion of Vietnamese and Creole
cuisines, prepared with all the trappings of the city’s best upscale bistros.

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Crescent City Steakhouse 7 \\\

1001 N Broad Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 821-3271 Map 2 C3

It doesn’t get any more classic than this 1930s-era steakhouse, home to the New Orleans-style steak, served sizzling
with butter. The sturdy dining room, with its tile floors and discreet dining booths with privacy curtains, has not
changed for generations. The steaks are prime, the service is friendly, and the prices are reasonable.

Mandina’s ¤: \\\

3800 Canal St, 70119 Tell (504) 482-9179 Map 2 A3

Every detail harks back to another era. Here, large families still dine together, and regulars wait at the stand-only bar,
sipping on stiff cocktails. All the Creole classics are on the menu such as turtle soup, trout amandine, and bread pud-
ding, and they all live up to the priceless atmosphere. No reservations – so, embrace the wait.

Ralph’s on the Park 7fΔ \\\\

900 City Park Ave, 70119 Tell (504) 488-1000 Map 2 A2

Yet another specimen of the Brennan’s restaurant chain that turns fine dining into an art. At Ralph’s, the beautiful
location overlooking City Park makes for an ideal experience. The salads are well considered, and the local seafood
dishes are a must.

BEYOND NEW ORLEANS

ABITA SPRINGS Abita Brew Pub :7Δ \\

72011 Holly St, Abita Springs, 70420 Tell (985) 892-5837

You can sample limited runs of Abita beer that are not found elsewhere, while enjoying their own version of bar food
such as Chicken Abitafeller – grilled chicken with fried oysters and spinach-artichoke dip. The quaint town of Abita
Springs is nice to walk around, and there is even a bike trail right beside the restaurant.

AVONDALE Mosca’s ¤:7 \\\\

4137 Hwy 90 W, Avondale, 70094 Tell (504) 436-8950

There are all sorts of Mafia-related rumors surrounding this little Italian spot, and the rural, isolated setting certainly
adds to that mystique. But the real draw is the family-style fare. Highlights are the Italian salads featuring tangy olives
and sweet lumps of crabmeat and tasty chicken. Be sure to check out the jukebox that will take you back in time.

BREAUX BRIDGE Poche’s :7Δ \\

3015A Main Hwy, Breaux Bridge, 70517 Tell (337) 332-2108

This is where to go for all those specialty Cajun meats such as andouille and boudin. They also serve plate lunches
such as smothered rabbit, fried catfish, and crawfish étouffée. The Poche family has been in the meat business since
the 1960s and should be able to answer any questions about the charcuterie tradition.

BREAUX BRIDGE Café des Amis :7fΔ \\\\

140 E Bridge St, Breaux Bridge, 70517 Tell (337) 332-5273

This famed dancehall and restaurant really gives you a peek into Cajun culture with plenty of two-stepping and
culinary delights such as crawfish pies and cornbread and eggplant wheels. Expect a crowd, especially on weekends
in the fall and spring when plenty of tour buses bring in the masses. Still, the more the merrier.

CHALMETTE Rocky & Carlo’s :7 \

613 W St. Bernard Hwy, Chalmette, 70043 Tell (504) 279-8323

A family restaurant, bar, and de facto community clubhouse, Rocky & Carlo’s is a scruffy but beloved institution in
St. Bernard Parish and the place to enjoy Creole-Italian comfort food. Impossibly gooey macaroni and cheese with
brown gravy, the Italian meatloaf bracciolini, and hulking fried oyster po’boys are among the culinary charms.

COVINGTON The Dakota 7 \\\

629 N Hwy 190, Covington, 70433 Tell (985) 892-3712

Similar to its sister restaurant Cuvée in New Orleans, this fine-dining place offers excellent food and service. They
are known for their fresh, seasonal ingredients and consequently, the menu changes often. The soft shell crabs are
a must if in season, and the pork tenderloin is another popular entrée. Also, explore their extensive wine selection.

DARROW Latil’s Landing 7 \\\\\

40136 Hwy 942, River Road, Darrow, 70725 Tell (225) 473-9380
A visit to Houmas House Plantation and Gardens (see p137) is meant to evoke Louisiana’s prosperous past, but a meal
at its fine-dining restaurant, Latil’s Landing, is all about contemporary, cosmopolitan renditions of Creole cuisine. No
expense is spared in decor or amenities, and elaborate tasting menus are available nightly.

GRETNA Kim Son :7 \\

349 Whitney Ave, Gretna, 70056 Tell (504) 366-2489

The west bank of the Mississippi River offers great ethnic cuisine, especially from Vietnam. Kim Son serves Chinese
and Vietnamese dishes, and the latter are the standout. Claypot specialties are sure to please as are the salt-baked
shrimp, lobster, and crab. There is basic Cantonese fare for the less adventurous but if you are daring, talk to the staff.

Key to Price Guide see p176 Key to Symbols see back cover flap

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LACOMBE La Provence 7 \\\\

25020 Hwy 190, Lacombe, 70445 Tell (985) 626-7662

The French country home feel sets the stage for classic French fare such as leg of lamb and roasted duck. There are also
some local dishes including chicken and andouille gumbo. Their “menu du paysan” special is a good deal featuring
a reasonably priced three-course dinner. The 30-something-year history of the restaurant makes it special.

LAFAYETTE Anjo’s Bakery :7 \

1507 Kaliste Saloom Rd, Lafayette, 70508 Tell (337) 989-1977

This sweet spot has been treating Lafayette to its European-style pastries for years – offering tiramisu, cream puffs,
eclairs, and more. They are famous for their baby king cakes during Mardi Gras, and they even offer a line of desserts
for diabetics. On the savory side there are some hot sandwiches, but sugar is their real specialty.

LAFAYETTE Don’s Seafood and Steakhouse :7 \\

301 E Vermillion St, Lafayette, 70501 Tell (337) 235-3551

This family-owned local favorite is always bustling and has been for about 70 years. They offer terrific fresh local sea-
food (mostly fried), and big juicy steaks. They are known for their hushpuppies, and bread pudding is the signature
dessert. A great place to eat if you are traveling with kids, thanks to the welcoming atmosphere and friendly staff.

LAFAYETTE Alesi’s Italian Restaurant \\\

4110 Johnston St, Lafayette, 70503 Tell (337) 984-1823

This mom-and-pop restaurant has been hooking locals with their pizza and pasta for years. It is a sure charmer with
red- and white-checked tablecloths and a friendly staff. Their steaks, sandwiches, and salads are popular alternatives
to traditional Italian fare. A great place to go if you are traveling with children, thanks to the family atmosphere.

LAFAYETTE Prejean’s :7fΔ \\\

3480 I–49 N, Lafayette, 70507 Tell (337) 896-3247

The focal point in this authentic Cajun dancehall is a 14-ft (4.2-m) long stuffed alligator named “Big Al.” He watches
over the nightly dancing and eating. The extensive menu offers many options, mostly of the Cajun variety, such as
crawfish boudin balls, and seafood stuffed mushrooms as starters. Entrées include crawfish pasta and fried alligator.

LAFAYETTE Randol’s :7f \\\

2320 Kaliste Saloom Rd, Lafayette, 70508 Tell (337) 981-7080

This dancehall/restaurant places a strong emphasis on fresh ingredients. They raise their own crabs and crawfish
and grow herbs for seasoning. Highlights of the menu are crab fingers, fried oyster Caesar salad, shrimp au gratin,
and boiled crawfish and crabs when in season. They also sell their fresh seafood, which they will ship home for you.

MANCHAC Middendorf’s Seafood :7 \\

30160 Hwy 51 S, Manchac, 70421 Tell (985) 386-6666

There are actually two side-by-side locations of this fried seafood joint. Their specialty is catfish, and you can enjoy its
crispy goodness as you relax surrounded by the waters of Lake Manchac. It is fun to go here on a Saturday or Sunday
afternoon when the weather is nice and local families turn out in droves, giving you a feel for true Louisiana living.

MANDEVILLE Trey Yuen Cuisine of China :7 \\

600 N Causeway Blvd, Mandeville, 70448 Tell (985) 626-4476

There is no lack of flair at this landmark Northshore restaurant, which was modeled after a Chinese palace, complete
with courtyard gardens and ponds. The menu offers most of the familiar Chinese-American standards, but the
kitchen also works in local ingredients like crawfish and oysters for some original dishes.

METAIRIE Andrea’s 7 \\\\

3100 19th St, Metairie, 70002 Tell (504) 834-8583

This Metairie mainstay does not look like much from the outside, but locals have revered it for years because of its
delicious Italian fare. Popular starters are the antipasti and Caprese salad, and favorite entrées are the risotto New
Orleans and veal chops. All seafood dishes are fresh, and the chef’s tasting menu ensures a nice sampling.

METAIRIE Drago’s :7 \\\\

3232 N Arnoult Rd, Metairie, 70002 Tell (504) 888-9254

This suburban mall-side restaurant became famous for the perfection of its grilled oysters. Topped with garlic and
butter and cooked until just done, they are worth a trip to Metairie. They also offer a variety of other local seafood
dishes, but the oysters are the standout. There is always a crowd, mostly locals, as the oysters are legendary.

NEW IBERIA Clementine Dining & Spirits :7fΔ \\\

113 E Main St, New Iberia, 70560 Tell (337) 560-1007

The focal point in this historic building is an antique bar made of tiger oak and mahogany; a perfect place for a pre-
dinner cocktail. Dine in the courtyard and enjoy some of their signature dishes such as roasted red pepper bisque
with wild mushrooms and crabmeat, and their addictive fried green tomatoes. Locals swear by their steaks.

RACELAND Spahr’s :7 \

4566 Hwy 1, Raceland, 70394 Tell (985) 758-1602

If you are looking for some road food as you drive west from New Orleans then you should definitely stop here. They
are famous for their Bloody Marys and fried seafood, and with good reason. The Bloody Mary is basically a meal in
itself, and their fried oysters, shrimp, and catfish are all exemplary. Be on the lookout – it is hidden in a gas station.

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186 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

SHOPPING IN NEW ORLEANS

A s the gateway to the Mississippi,
New Orleans has long been a
place for buying and selling
goods, and it still maintains a talent
for filling its stores with irresistible
imaginative masks, handmade crafts,
rare books, and the best jazz records.
Shopping in New Orleans is an
initiation into local culture. Each of
the city’s many shopping areas has
treasures. Antiques are among the a unique character, with the French
city’s finest buys, and it is possible Quarter, Magazine Street, Carrollton,
to find anything from 18th-century and Julia Street all offering vibrant,
French furniture to 1950s vintage Antique rich experiences. These pages high-
dresses. Other specialties include porcelain jar light the best stops in the city.

MALLS AND SHOPPING

CENTERS

New Orleans currently has

only two traditional in-town
malls. Canal Place (see p94),
on the edge of the French
Quarter, has upscale shops
such as Ann Taylor, Williams-
Sonoma, Saks Fifth Avenue,
and Coach. The unique
Riverwalk Marketplace,
which stretches alongside the
Mississippi River from Canal
Street up to the Convention
The exterior of the upscale Canal Place shopping mall Center, has dozens of small
shops and a liberal share of
WHEN TO SHOP At the airport, go to the chains such as Chico’s, Nine
Louisiana Tax Free Shopping West, and others. Outside
Stores in the Central Business Refund Center and show there is a concrete deck
District, along Magazine Street, your passport, sales receipts, above the river, which has
and in the French Quarter refund vouchers, and air lovely views, and useful
tend to operate from 9am to ticket (which may be up to information plaques pointing
5pm or 10am to 6pm. Many a maximum of a 90-day trip). out places of interest.
open on Sundays, but always If you do not manage to get Jax Brewery, in the French
call in advance to avoid dis- reimbursed at the airport, Quarter, is a former beer
appointment. Some shops in send copies of everything, factory that has been trans-
the Quarter don’t open until along with an explanation, formed into a sprawling,
noon, but they close late, too. to the Refund Center. three-story retail space.
Visitors who want a more
HOW TO PAY SHIPPING traditional mall experience
can venture into the suburbs.
Major credit cards are accept- If you would prefer to send Lakeside Shopping Center in
ed everywhere, and there your purchases home rather Metairie is the biggest mall in
are plenty of Automated than take them with
Teller Machines (ATMs) from you, ask the store to
which to get cash for a small handle the task for
fee. Traveler’s checks are you – New Orleans
almost universally accepted. merchants are accus-
Some shops will also take tomed to shipping
personal checks with goods anywhere.
sufficient identification. For large buys such
as furniture and art
SALES TAX objects, professional
REIMBURSEMENT packing and/or
shipping is a necessity.
If you are a foreign visitor, A good source is The
you can get back the 10 Wooden Box on South
percent sales tax on tangible Peters Street. For
goods, but you must show smaller items, a reliable
the vendor your passport company is the Royal
and ask for a refund voucher. Mail Service. A band outside Riverwalk Marketplace

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S H O P P I N G I N N E W O R L E A N S 187

the metropolitan area. It has Decatur Street, Bottom of the Studio, in the French Quarter.
two anchor stores, Dillard’s Barrel Antiques is a must for It’s home to Cajun artist
and J. C. Penney, and more treasure hunters. Their motto George Rodrigue and his
than 100 other shops, is “This ain’t your Grandma’s distinctive Blue Dogg paint-
including 15 shoe stores. The antique shop,” and the tattoo- ings. Make sure you look
addition of a massive Macy’s covered employees confirm at his other works too,
department store, planned for this. Jammed with all manner such as the scenes from
2009, will no doubt add to of things from the region, the Cajun community life.
this mall’s popularity. Also in the Quarter is
the Stone & Press Gallery,
ART AND ANTIQUES with dazzlingly detailed
works on paper, etchings,
Since its earliest days, lithographs, wood carvings,
New Orleans has been a and mezzotints.
treasure trove of artistic The artist James
and vintage luxuries. The Michalopoulos, who
locals’ knack for dealing in owns the eponymous
rare and remarkable gallery Michalopoulos,
objects continues to this has become popular for
very day. Another big Linke cabinet crafted with kingwood his idiosyncratic depictions of
advantage of shopping for and doré bronze, at M. S. Rau New Orleans architecture.
antiques in New Orleans is The exaggerated silhouettes
relative affordability. While store is best known for are true-to-life representations
prices may still be steep for unbelievably affordable prices of the city.
rare and highly sought-after on bedroom suites, armoires, When you are in the French
pieces, they are usually lower and chandeliers. Sometimes Quarter, don’t forget to check
than in other US cities. Even the prices seem so cheap you out the artists who hang their
when shipping costs are think there must be a mistake. works on the fence around
taken into consideration, The antiques shops on Jackson Square. While some
buyers do very well for Magazine Street tend to be of the pieces on display are
themselves. Vintage art can heavier on 20th-century wares amateur at best, there are
be found in abundance here, than those in the French also some very talented
though it leans toward the Quarter. Bush Antiques has artists who choose this one-
pretty and comfortable – New a large range of eye-popping on-one interaction with the
Orleans is not a cutting-edge vintage beds, many of which public rather than taking the
place when it comes to art. come from France. Celebrities more formal gallery route.
There are antiques shops who happen to be in town Julia Street, in the Ware-
all over the city, but the can often be spotted here. house District, is New
biggest concentrations can Simon of New Orleans has Orleans’ genuine gallery
be found on Royal Street in a changing stock of offbeat neighborhood. Most of the
the French Quarter and along tables, chairs, and metalwork. galleries here concentrate
Magazine Street in Uptown. However, the shop is best on local and regional artists,
The former is a fabulous known for proprietor and which means that you’ll have
showcase of high-end chef-turned-artist Simon a chance to see exceptional
antiques, while the latter is Hardeveld’s charming faux work by painters, sculptors,
dominated by the fun and folk-art signs. and photographers not well
funky. Many of the shops in New Orleans also offers a known outside of Louisiana.
the Quarter are family-run wide selection of art galleries, LeMieux Galleries shows
enterprises, often several the most famous of which both emerging and established
generations in. This history is probably the Rodrigue artists from Louisiana and the
has contributed to their
developing a comfortable,
easy atmosphere for all
customers, especially novices.
Established in 1912, M. S.
Rau is internationally known
for its range of American,
English, and French antique
furniture. Keil’s Antiques is
a family-run business dating
from 1899. It stocks superb
antique jewelry, as well as
chandeliers, furniture, and
mirrors. On Chartres Street,
Lucullus focuses on kitchen
antiques, ranging from china
and linens to 200-year-old
French farm tables, while on Bush Antiques interior displaying a vintage sleigh bed
 188 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

it is possible to take those

unique flavors home with
you. The distinctive spices,
sauces, and mixes used
in local dishes are readily
available in jars and bottles.
You’ll see them all over the
French Quarter in souvenir
shops, but these are often
wildly overpriced, so try a
regular grocery store instead
for beignett mix, coffee with
chicory, crab boil, and other
products – the quality is the
same, but the prices are far
lower. Try Rouse’s Market,
An array of Louisiana hot sauces to recreate the magic of Creole cuisine which is almost a full-service
grocery store in the French
Gulf Coast, often with strong JEWELRY Quarter, or the historic Cen-
New Orleans themes in tral Grocery (see p76), another
their work. The oldest jewelry store in Quarter outlet that, besides its
Quite a few non-Louisiana New Orleans is Adler’s, which famous muffuletta (see p172),
artists are represented by dates back to 1898. This is the also stocks sauces, mustards,
Arthur Roger, including big best place for traditional rings, and all kinds of Italian delica-
names such as Dale Chihuly, necklaces, and other precious cies. Pralines are a must-try
with his art glass, and film- items. Mignon Faget has for many visitors. The greatest
maker John Waters, with become the standard for con- fun is to sample the different
his quirky photographs. temporary jewelry, producing outlets before hitting upon a
The Steve Martin Studio is handcrafted pieces in gold and favorite. The tastiest bets are
an all-white space above a silver. There are three Faget Laura’s Candies and Aunt
19th-century storefront. The shops in the metropolitan Sally’s Praline Shop.
starkness shows off owner area. Katy Beh Contemporary If you want to take home
Steve Martin’s wire sculptures Jewelry is a stylish store that crawfish, crab, or andouille
to great advantage, and acts represents more than 30 mod- sausage, head for the Big
as an ideal backdrop for ern jewelry-makers. The line Fisherman on Magazine
the large canvases that his of “commitment rings” is a Street, where the locals go
emerging artists seem to romantic’s dream come true. for their fare. An advantage
favor. For avant-garde Many of the antiques shops is that the staff is expert at
work that explores exciting also carry an extensive stock packing these meaty
installation and conceptual of vintage earrings, bracelets, perishables for travel.
art, the Jonathan Ferrara necklaces, and decorative
Gallery is the place to go. pieces. New Orleans Silver- r CRAFTS
The Stella Jones Gallery in smiths is a big favorite with
the CBD is the city’s premier many collectors. For a wide selection of items
African and African-American made out of ceramics, wood,
showplace. Modern masters FOOD paper, metal, and glass, try
such as Elizabeth Catlett are the third floor of Canal Place,
on the gallery’s list of artists. If you fall in love with Cajun where Rhino Contemporary
The New Orleans School of and Creole cuisine during Craft Co. features crafts from
Glassworks has an exhibition your stay in New Orleans, a range of regional artists.
space for the art glass created The Idea Factory is filled
by its members. If possible, with handmade woodcrafted
time your visit to observe toys, games, vases, sculptures,
one of the daily demos of boxes, and all sorts of other
the highly skilled artists collectibles. The Idea Factory
blowing glass. manages to be both primitive
If you happen to be in and sophisticated.
New Orleans on the third The fun French Quarter
Saturday of any month, a Flea Market (see p70) is
visit to the outdoors Bywater host to a number of vendors
Art Market is a must. Join selling all sorts of strange
the locals as they wander and alluring crafts. These
among the 50-plus painters, include wood carvings that,
jewelry-makers, photogra- in spite of their questionable
phers, textile artists, and African origins, make delight-
woodworkers who set up ful gifts. Quirky handmade
for the special one-day A gifts and souvenirs stand at the toys and jewelry are also
event, come rain or shine. popular French Quarter Flea Market available here.

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GIFTS AND
SPECIALTY STORES

Located in a handsome
old-fashioned store, Hové
Parfumeur has been sweetly
scenting New Orleanians since
1931. At Santa’s Quarters, it
is Christmas all year round.
You will find lovely holiday
ornaments and decorative
objects at this store, which
is a real boon for those who
prefer to finish their Christmas
shopping before winter.
If you wish to buy one of
the gas lamps that flicker in Colorful fashion feathers at Funky Monkey
the Quarter for your own
front door, stop by Bevolo surrealist arty items for the shop for women, carrying
Gas and Electric Lights, while home to naughty adult gag Michael Kors and V Vera Wang
Scriptura is the place to go gifts. Metro Three has area art among others. It also has a
for beautiful paper products, and T-shirts reflecting local popular cosmetics counter.
from journals and sketch culture, while Aidan Gill is While Mimi’s sleek and stylish
books to handmade paper an old-fashioned gentlemen’s look represents reigning
and calligraphy sets. parlor with a fine range of fashion trends, New Orleans
New Orleans has strong links wristwatches, lapel pins, continues its love affair with
with the Caribbean, and there and grooming items. overstated apparel that is
are several cigar-making stores characterized by ruffles,
in the city. At the Cigar Factory, FASHION flounces, and other such
visitors can watch the cigars flourishes. Despite the
being rolled and cut, then For mainstream apparel for similarity in name and style,
proceed to select their stogie men, women, and children, Fleur de Paris and Yvonne
of choice from the humidor. you can rely on department LaFleur are unrelated shops.
Mardi Gras souvenirs such stores such as Dillard’s, The former is a lush temple
as masks and other regalia Macy’s, and J. C. Penney, in to femininity in the French
are available at several stores. the shopping malls. However, Quarter. Hats are the store’s
The best place to find a flat- it is the depth and variety of signature items, and they
tering art mask is at the fair formal clothing that makes feature frothy decorations of
before Mardi Gras, but if New Orleans different from feathers, fruits, flowers, and
you’re not in town at that most other cities in the US. ribbons. Back in the River-
time of year, then stop by Everyone here attends Mardi bend area of Uptown, Yvonne
Rumors. They also sell quaint Gras balls, from street clean- LaFleur offers lavish evening
ers to bank presidents, so gowns and romantic hats that
numerous shops also carry Scarlett O’Hara would have
frilly ball gowns, dancing loved. The shop even has its
slippers, evening purses, own tiara department.
and other accessories. Designer Harold Clarke’s
New Orleans is the French Quarter outlet, Harold
perfect place to pick out Clarke Couturier, is much
a tuxedo, since there’s a loved by debutantes and
wide selection and the sales- Mardi Gras royalty. His
A flamboyant Mardi Gras mask people know all about fittings. dreamy ball gowns are always
from Rumors, sold all year round Perlis is almost a New Orleans on display thanks to the full-
tradition in formal clothing for length windows in his shop.
voodoo dolls that have pur- men. The shop’s signature Magazine Street is home
portedly been inspired by the fashion is a polo shirt with to a number of happening
Louisiana swampland. There a crawfish logo. Another old- shops that specialize in funky
are quite a few tarot readers line store that caters to men outfits for club nights and
in Jackson Square, but for a is Rubenstein’s. Note that bohemian days. Trashy Diva
private session in rather unu- both Perlis and Rubenstein’s and Funky Monkey both
sual surroundings, opt for the also have departments stock wild and outrageous
Bottom of the Cup Tea Room. dedicated to women’s clothes that you might see
Located within the same clothing. Style Lab, featuring on teenage pop stars. For
eclectic block of Magazine fashionable casual clothing, vintage fashions, a good
Street, Winky’s, Metro Three, is also an oft-frequented choice is On the Other Hand,
and Aidan Gill for Men all place for menswear. a boutique that offers a fine
offer unusual items. Winky’s Mimi, on Magazine Street, and wide selection of second-
is known for everything from is the top designer-fashion hand clothes.
190 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Meyer the Hatter is one signings here. Maple Street Factory, which stocks a well-
of the city’s most beloved Bookshop, near the Tulane cataloged range of artists. Be
shops. The family-owned University campus, is devoted sure to check for free in-store
store has been supplying to showcasing Southern litera- performances by artists
New Orleanians of both ture and is a favorite of locals promoting their new albums.
sexes with hats for more as well as visiting writers. In The staff members are very
than 100 years. Every con- the French Quarter, Faulkner helpful too.
ceivable type of hat can be House Books is a charming For collectors, the city has
found here, including Stet- little shop with a surprising several outstanding hunting
sons, derbies, fedoras, and number of books in stock. It grounds. One of the best is
berets, all of which are also has many rare first Jim Russell’s Rare Records,
elegant, well crafted, and editions, especially by William which has a great stock
reasonably priced. Faulkner, who once lived in of rock ’n’ roll 78s among
the building. For used books, its thousands of records.
BOOKS the French Quarter has
Kaboom Books, a treasure
Independent bookstores are trove of both intellectual and
still going strong in New offbeat volumes. Beckham’s
Orleans. At Octavia Books, Bookshop includes comfy
located in the Uptown area, reading chairs and friendly cats.
volumes are carefully chosen
and sold by the book-loving MUSIC
staffers. The Garden District
Bookshop has an admirable Music is the lifeblood of
selection of non-fiction and New Orleans. The greatest
regional titles, and it also has place to explore local music,
strong ties to writer Anne from jazz to zydeco, is the A record by Oscar “Papa” Celestin,
Rice, who has done several famous Louisiana Music founder of the Tuxedo Brass Band

DIRECTORY
SALES TAX Lakeside Shopping Jonathan Ferrara New Orleans School
REIMBURSEMENT Center Gallery of Glassworks
3301 Veterans Blvd. 400 Julia St. 727 Magazine St.
Louisiana Tax Tel 835-8000. www. Map 4 C5. Map 4 C4. Tel 529-7279.
Free Shopping lakesideshopping.com Tel 522-5471. www.neworleans
Refund Center www.jonathanferrara glassworks.org
P.O. Box 20125. Riverwalk gallery.com
Marketplace Rodrigue Studio
Tel 467-0723.
1 Poydras St. Map 8 C1. Keil’s Antiques 721 Royal St.
www.louisianataxfree.com
Tel 522-1555. www. 325 Royal St. Map 5 D2.
riverwalkmarketplace.com Map 4 C2. Tel 581-4244.
SHIPPING
Tel 522-4552. www.george
Royal Mail Service ART AND www.keilsantiques.com rodrigue.com
828 Royal St. ANTIQUES LeMieux Galleries Simon of
Map 5 D2. 332 Julia St. New Orleans
Arthur Roger
Tel 522-8523. Map 4 C5. 1028 Jackson Ave.
432 Julia St. Map 4 C5.
Tel 522-5988. www. Map 8 A3.
The Wooden Box Tel 522-1999. www.
lemieuxgalleries.com Tel 524-8201.
816 S Peters St. arthurrogergallery.com
Map 4 C5. One of two locations. Lucullus Stella Jones Gallery
Tel 568-0281. 610 Chartres St. 201 St. Charles Ave.
Bottom of the Map 4 C2. Tel 528-9620. Map 4 C3.
Barrel Antiques www.lucullusantiques. Tel 568-9050.
MALLS AND
1209 Decatur St. com www.stellajones.com
SHOPPING
Map 5 D1. One of two locations.
CENTERS Steve Martin Studio
Tel 220-8577 or 881-
6125. Michalopoulos 624 Julia St.
Canal Place
617 Bienville St. Map 4 B4.
333 Canal St. Map 8 C1. Bush Antiques Map 4 C3. Tel 566-1390.
Tel 522-9200. 2109 Magazine St. Tel 558-0505. www. www.stevemartin
www.theshopsat Map 8 A3. Tel 581-3518. michalopoulos.com studio.com
canalplace.com www.bushantiques.com
M. S. Rau Stone & Press
Jax Brewery Bywater Art Market 630 Royal St. Gallery
600 Decatur St. Map 3 E5. Piety & Royal sts. Map 5 D2. 238 Chartres St.
Tel 566-7245. www. Tel 944-7900. www. Tel 523-5660. Map 4 C3. Tel 561-8555.
jacksonbrewery.com bywaterartmarket.com www.rauantiques.com www.stoneandpress.com
 S H O P P I N G I N N E W O R L E A N S 191

DIRECTORY
JEWELRY Idea Factory Scriptura Trashy Diva
838 Chartres St. 5423 Magazine St. 829 Chartres St.
Adler’s Map 5 D1. Map 6 C4. Map 5 D2. Tel 581-4555.
722 Canal St. Map 4 B3. Tel 524-5195. Tel 897-1555. www.trashydiva.com
Tel 523-5292. www.ideafactory
www.scriptura.com One of two locations.
www.adlersjewelry.com neworleans.com
Winky’s Yvonne LaFleur
Katy Beh Rhino Contemporary
2038 Magazine St. 8131 Hampson St.
Contemporary Craft Co.
Map 8 A3. Map 6 A1. Tel 866-9666.
Jewelry Canal Place, 3rd floor.
Tel 568-1020. www.yvonnelafleur.com
3701 Magazine St. Map 4 C3.
Tel 523-7945.
Map 7 F4. Tel 896-9600. FASHION BOOKS
www.rhinocrafts.com
www.katybeh.com
Beckham’s
Mignon Faget GIFTS AND Fleur de Paris
Bookshop
3801 Magazine St. SPECIALTY STORES 523 Royal St.
228 Decatur St.
Map 7 F4. Map 4 C2.
Aidan Gill for Men Map 4 C3. Tel 522-9875.
Tel 891-2005. Tel 525-1899.
2026 Magazine St.
www.mignonfaget.com www.fleurdeparis.net Faulkner House
Map 8 A3.
Tel 587-9090. www.
Books
New Orleans Funky Monkey 624 Pirate’s Alley.
aidangillformen.com
Silversmiths 3127 Magazine St. Map 5 D2. Tel 524-2940.
600 Chartres St. Bevolo Gas and Map 7 F4. Tel 899-5587. www.faulknerhouse
Map 4 C2. Tel 522-8333. Electric Lights
Harold Clarke books.net
www.neworleans 521 Conti St.
Map 4 C2. Couturier Garden District
silversmiths.com
Tel 522-9485. 901 Iberville St. Bookshop
FOOD www.bevolo.com Map 4 C2. Tel 568-0440. 2727 Prytania St.
www.haroldclarke.com Map 7 F4. Tel 895-2266.
Bottom of the Cup
Aunt Sally’s Tea Room www.gardendistrict
Meyer the Hatter
Praline Shop 327 Chartres St. bookshop.com
120 St. Charles Ave.
810 Decatur St. Map 4 C3.
Map 4 C3. Kaboom Books
Map 5 D2. Tel 524-3373. Tel 524-1997.
Tel 525-1048. www. 915 Barracks St.
www.auntsallys.com www.bottomof
meyerthehatter.com Map 5 D1. Tel 529-5780.
thecup.com
Big Fisherman
Cigar Factory Mimi Maple Street
3301 Magazine St.
415 Decatur St. 5500 Magazine St. Bookshop
Map 7 F4. Tel 897-9907.
Map 5 D3. Tel 568-1003. Map 6 C4. Tel 269-6464. 7523 Maple St.
www.bigfisherman
www.cigarfactory www.miminola.com Map 6 A2. Tel 866-4916.
seafood.com
neworleans.com www.maplestreet
Central Grocery On the Other Hand
bookshop.com
Hové Parfumeur 8204 Oak St. Map 6 A1.
923 Decatur St.
824 Royal St. Tel 861-0159. Octavia Books
Map 5 D2. Tel 523-1620.
Map 5 D1. 513 Octavia St.
www.ontheotherhand
Laura’s Candies Tel 525-7827. www. Map 6 C5. Tel 899-7323.
consignment.com
331 Chartres St. Hoveparfumeur.com www.octaviabooks.com
Map 4 C3. Tel 525-3880. Metro Three Perlis
www.laurascandies.com 2032 Magazine St. 6070 Magazine St. MUSIC
Map 8 A3. Map 6 B4. Tel 895-8661.
Rouse’s Market Jim Russell’s
Tel 558-0212. www.perlis.com
701 Royal St.
www.metrothree.com
Rare Records
One of four locations.
Map 5 D2. Tel 523-1353. 1837 Magazine St.
www.rouses.com Rumors Rubenstein’s Map 8 B3. Tel 522-2602.
537 Royal St. 102 St. Charles Ave. www.jimrussellrecords.
CRAFTS Map 4 C2.
Map 4 C3. Tel 581-6666. com
Tel 525-0292.
www.rubensteins
French Quarter www.rumorsno.com Louisiana Music
neworleans.com
Flea Market Santa’s Quarters Factory
Decatur & St. Philip sts. 1025 Decatur St. Style Lab 210 Decatur St.
Map 5 D2. Map 5 D2. Tel 581-5820. 3641 Magazine St. Map 4 C3. Tel 586-1094.
Tel 522-2621. www.santas Map 7 E4. Tel 304-5072. www.louisiana
www.frenchmarket.org quartersno.com www.stylelabformen.com musicfactory.com
192 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

What to Buy in New Orleans

New Orleans is the best place to
discover original small boutiques
that are owned by artists and
designers of all sorts – jewelers,
painters, potters, milliners, clothes
Mardi Gras mask designers, and many more – rather
than large department stores. In
addition to these, there are various tourist memorabilia
and trinket stores, which sell T-shirts, rubber alligators,
Mardi Gras beads, and other typical kitsch souvenirs.
However, to experience the quintessential New Orleans,
look out for the things that New Orleans does best –
cuisine, cocktails, and music. Mardi Gras poster

MARDI GRAS MEMORABILIA

Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ biggest and longest
party, and there are plenty of souvenirs that
visitors can take home. Masks are the most
alluring, and they can be found in shops and
stalls throughout the city. Prices can range
from as little as $20 to hundreds of dollars
for the really gorgeous feather masks; the
latter are handmade by individual artists
who are often theater costume designers.
Less authentic trinkets include beads, mugs,
T-shirts, and other typical souvenirs.
Flea market stands with Mardi Gras souvenirs

African Art and Crafts

The heritage of New
Orleans’ African cultures
can be found in a number
of shops. Here you can buy
African art and crafts,
including masks, drums,
sculptures, pipes, tables, and
items of personal jewelry.
African wood
drum

Wood–carved African sculptures

Hand-Rolled Cigars
New Orleans is close to the Caribbean, both
Music physically and culturally, and has a strong
Music is the lifeblood of the city, and a tradition of importing Caribbean cigars.
musical souvenir is essential. Record There are several stores where cigars are still
stores sell recordings of great artists hand-rolled. Even a single cigar or a rather
playing traditional and modern jazz, expensive box make a perfect gift for any
gospel, blues, R&B, Cajun, and zydeco. cigar aficionado.
 S H O P P I N G I N N E W O R L E A N S 193

Voodoo Accoutrements
New Orleans is the one place in the
United States where the voodoo
religion was once openly practiced
and celebratedd (see p83). Supplies of
the materials needed to perform
voodoo healings and other rituals –
candles, gris-gris to control the boss,
ensure safe travel, or promote love,
voodoo dolls, and more – can still
be purchased at several shops in the
French Quarter. These always make
colorful and unusual gifts.

Voodoo candle Gris-gris bags

Antiques
New Orleans is famous
for its tradition of
dealing in fine
antiques. You can
find 19th-century
furniture and
jewelry, as well as
other decorative
objects, for all
tastes and prices.

Antique shop on
Royal Street

THE FLAVORS OF LOUISIANA

Louisiana is famous the world over
for spicy, flavorsome cuisine (see
pp172–175). Most visitors want to
take some of it home and duplicate
those flavors in their own kitchens.
In many stores, shelves are lined
with hot sauces such as Tabasco,
Crystal, Panola, and Cajun Chef.
Strands of peppers and garlic and
bottles of Cajun and Creole season-
ing can be found at the French
Market and numerous stores in the
area. Here are some of the city’s
quintessential food gifts.
Roux mix for gumbos

Hats
Southerners and New Orleanians
in particular love hats. There
are several stores selling terrific
ones for both men and women
(see pp189–190). They stock
every available kind, from
Olive salad Beignet flour An instant classic fedoras, derbies, and
dressing mix traditional dish Stetsons to berets, French legion
caps, and squashy barman hats.
194 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

ENTER TAINMENT IN
NEW ORLEANS
I n 1817, a visitor to New Orleans
wrote, “There are few places
where human life can be enjoyed
with more pleasure.” Little has
changed since then, and New
and the annual Jazz Fest. The
rallying cry of Laissez les bons
temps rouler!! (“ Let the good
times roll!”) is taken quite
literally here. You’ll also find
Orleans remains a party town to good times in sports, including
this day. Even when it is not Mardi football, basketball, and horse-
Gras, the mood is festive, and racing, as well as casinos, stage
there is always a party somewhere. productions, and bars, which
Music underpins the atmosphere, approach an art form in the Big
Marching-
from tiny neighborhood bars to band tuba
Easy. For New Orleans’ best music
late-night rock and blues clubs player venues, see pp200–1.
ROCK, BLUES, AND
OTHER MUSIC VENUES

Music clubs in New Orleans

are almost celebrities in them-
selves, with their own fans,
personalities, and idiosyn-
crasies. The House of Blues
(see p201) and Tipitina’s are
the two leading ones by
virtue of the big names they
book and their unerring
instinct for New Orleans
authenticity. House of Blues
is the largest and most
expensive of the clubs; as
Street musicians playing jazz on Jackson Square well as enjoying top lineups,
visitors here can dine at the
ENTERTAINMENT (asked to show a picture ID excellent on-site restaurant.
GUIDES certifying one’s age). Unlike Frenchmen Street, in the
most American cities, it is legal Marigny, is where the locals
It’s easy to find out what’s on to walk around with drinks in go for the full music
in New Orleans. The best New Orleans, but they must be experience, drifting among
guides are the monthly maga- in plastic cups, or “go cups.” the various bars and clubs.
zine Offbeat, found free in It is illegal, however, to have A colorful group gathers at
cafés, hotels, and other public open alcoholic beverages in Café Brasil, which features
places; the Times-Picayune’s automobiles, even for passen- Latin and funk bands; the
Friday tabloid Lagniappe; and gers. Police keep a careful eye dancing crowds often spill
the weekly alternative paper on popular gathering spots out onto the street. The Blue
Gambit. For gay events and and are easy-going about Nile is another club with a
entertainments, check the tipsy folks except if there is
bi-monthly newspaper fighting or public urination,
Ambush, distributed to gay both of which will land mis-
bars and clubs in the French creants in jail immediately.
Quarter and the Marigny.
Other sources of information TICKETS
are the roots music radio
station WWOZ (90.7 FM) The easiest way to buy tickets
and classical and jazz music for concerts, football games,
station WWNO (89.9 FM). theatrical productions, and
Alcohol plays a big role in other events is to call the
the bon tempss in New Orleans. relevant box office or Ticket-
Although the city has a fairly master (www.ticketmaster.
relaxed attitude toward drink- com). The major hotels and
ing, there are still a few un- B&Bs usually have a con-
breakable rules. As in the rest cierge who can facilitate
of the US, the drinking age is booking tickets. Student and
21, but anyone under 35 senior-citizen discounts are Jazz parade and band on the
should expect to be “carded” available for many events. streets of the French Quarter
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N N E W O R L E A N S 195

eras, there is Melange, in the

Ritz-Carlton Hotel. The room
itself is lovely, with numerous
romantic nooks and crannies.
On weekends dapper young
jazz star Jeremy Davenport
and his band play to sophisti-
cated crowds. The Bombay
Club in the Prince Conti
Hotel is another oasis of
retro sophistication, with
plush decor, perfect martinis,
and light jazz.
Republic, a cabaret-style
music lounge that harkens
Live music at The Famous Door, Bourbon Street back to the 1940s, should
appeal to those who favor
big dance floor where Latin, the Quarter for at least three hip and beautiful crowds.
alternative rock, and brass decades. For more clubs The venue offers everything
bands play. Hipsters hang offering topless dancers, from indie-rock concerts
out at Dragon’s Den, where head to Bourbon Street. to fashion shows and
the music often goes on until In the Warehouse branded theme parties
daylight. Also on Frenchmen District, the Howlin’ with celebrity sightings.
are d.b.a. and the Spotted Cat Wolf club is renowned The city’s major music
Bar, both featuring interesting for booking break- venues will allow
musicians (often acoustic), ing new bands and you to buy tickets at the
and the crown jewel of local hosting original door or order them
jazz clubs, the Snug Harbor events such as the by phone or online.
Jazz Bistro. annual Thanksgiving At clubs there’s usu-
Bars in Bourbon Street are Turkey Bowl. The Cir- r ally a cover charge
mostly frequented by tourists, cle Bar on Lee Circle on weekends and for
and the music played here is a tiny space that rocks, name acts. Most clubs
tends to be mainstream Top while Le Bon Temps Roule, with live music have
40 rock covers. There are a located Uptown on Maga- a one- or two-drink
couple of genuine pearls on zine Street, is a favorite Street minimum policy.
Bourbon – The Famous Door spot to catch live local musician
has live music daily, while bands. There are several pool BARS
at Fritzel’s you can hear the tables, an extensive on-tap
best of local jazz talents – but beer selection, and better- It is possible to drink around
generally speaking, to find than-average bar food. the clock in New Orleans,
the real New Orleans, you Dance clubs are not a big which is reported to have
need to look a little farther. New Orleans thing, but the more bars per capita than any
At the back of the French & Club (say “Ampersand”) in other American city, all cater-
Quarter, on Rampart Street, the CBD, draws large crowds ing to the local passion for a
Donna’s Bar & Grill is the place of young singles, who dance good beer or a nice cocktail.
to see brass bands. Although into the small hours with DJs D As an added bonus, many bars
not a club, the Louisiana Music who know how to keep the offer free wireless Internet
Factoryy record store (see p190), party going. access to their patrons.
on Decatur, has an impressive For refined nightclubs that There are several famous
lineup of free concerts. The recall the elegance of earlier bars in the French Quarter
shop is a great place for close
encounters with blues, jazz,
zydeco, and Cajun musicians
who have daytime “in-stores”
– live performances and auto-
graphing sessions – to promote
new albums and concerts.
On Toulouse Street, One-
Eyed Jack’s is the latest incar-
nation of a longtime Quarter
joint. The club is a bubbly
mixture of alternative rock
and hip-hop and Sunday-
night burlesque shows.
Another stylish burlesque
show can be enjoyed at the
Chris Owens Club. The iconic
Owens has been dancing in Fritzel’s, Bourbon Street’s traditional European jazz club
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196 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

that deserve a visit. Pat

O’Brien’s is a classic bar with
its own trademark drink, the
lethal rum-and-fruit Hurricane
(see p174). It also has a lush
courtyard with a flaming
fountain and lighthearted
piano music. The attractively
shabby Napoleon House (see
p59) is the kind of place
where you could see aspiring
novelists write their story as
they nurse a drink in one of
the dim corners. Lafitte’s
Blacksmith Shop (see p78),
in a crumbling 18th-century Gathering around Pat O’Brien’s famous fire fountain
building, sends waiters out to
passing horse-drawn carriages that extends several blocks dance clubs are the Bourbon
to take drink orders. around the bar. Pub & Parade Disco and Oz,
New Orleans can do sleek Serious drinkers will find both on Bourbon Street. Near-
and upscale, too, as you’ll Cooter Brown’s Tavern an by is Café Lafitte in Exile, the
find at the Polo Lounge at impressive site, with its town’s oldest gay bar, with a
the Windsor Court Hotel, selection of more than 400 balcony for watching the
Whiskey Blue at the W Hotel, beers. The Bulldog, also in the street scene. Good Friends is
and the Swizzle Stick Bar in Uptown area, has a huge beer a relaxed spot where conver-
Loews Hotel. In a class of its selection as well, but is better sation is easy. The only
own, however, is the Hotel known as a college pick-up bar smoke-free bar in town is
Monteleone’s Carousel Bar, a than for its drinks. Bacchanal the friendly Napoleon’s Itch.
classic 1950s bar that slowly Fine Wines in Bywater is a laid- The Golden Lantern is a
revolves while the bartenders back wine shop that holds historic landmark, the
at the center dispense brandy more-or-less continual place where Southern
Alexanders and other cock- wine tastings. Decadence first began
tails. The sleek Loft 523 and Neighborhood bars more than 30 years
Loa at International House are are mostly friendly, ago, while Cowpokes
both distinctive and full of welcoming places, is a country-and-
personality – and personalities! even if you acciden- western bar and
Irish bars are a reliable tally sit on a stool dance club, with the
source of good fun. On that is “owned” by unusual addition of
Decatur Street, Kerry Irish a regular punter. a theater. Called The
Pub has Guinness on tap Vaughan’s Lounge, Marigny Theater, it
and live music. Molly’s at the in Bywater, is a gritty presents works in
Market is more New Orleans spot that has live progress and gay-
Irish than authentic Irish, music on Thursdays Flamboyant themed plays in a
but it is a center of Celticism, and a bohemian work- parade costume friendly environment.
holding its own St. Patrick’s ing-class esprit de corps
Day parade every year. every night. Finally, the F & M THEATER, DANCE, AND
Uptown is Parasol’s Bar, Patio Bar is known for attract- CLASSICAL MUSIC
perhaps the most famous ing big crowds after Mardi
Irish bar of them all. It is a Gras balls and debutante par- Jazz and contemporary music
neighborhood hangout that ties, when people flock here may dominate the arts scene
turns green on St. Patrick’s to drink on the patio, dance, in New Orleans, but there are
Day, with a huge street party and play pool. also many gems to be found
among the classical performing
GAY AND LESBIAN arts. The city has a long and
BARS AND CLUBS affectionate history with
opera. The New Orleans
The gay community in Opera Association is a small
New Orleans is large but valiant outfit bringing in
and visible. During recognized stars to headline
Mardi Gras (see p40) its four annual productions.
and Southern Deca- The company, which has
dence (“the gay Mardi staged such beloved classics
Gras”) (see p41), the as La Traviata, Faust, and
streets of the Lower Carmen, usually performs at
French Quarter are full the Mahalia Jackson Theater
of wild humor and of the Performing Arts (see
The brightly lit and slowly revolving outrageous costumes. p80). However, the theater is
Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone The two most popular undergoing renovations
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E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N N E W O R L E A N S 197

following flooding after The New Orleans Contempo- dominate, but there are also
Hurricane Katrina, so rary Arts Center (see p97) tables for blackjack, craps,
performances are currently doesn’t have a resident com- baccarat, and poker. Harrah’s
held at Tulane University’s pany but hosts numerous has slowly ventured into live
McAlister Auditorium. The productions every year, many entertainment as well, with
opera is expected to return to of them multimedia, avant- comedy and a Las Vegas-type
V
its original home when the garde works. Le Petit Théâtre revue. The city has two other
theater reopens in 2010. du Vieux Carré (see p55) is the casinos – Treasure Chest in
The Louisiana Philharmonic city’s oldest theater troupe, Kenner and Boomtown
Orchestra (LPO) also has a dating from 1916. The compa- Casino on the West Bank.
strong traditional slant and ny leans toward musicals
produces highly acclaimed and comedies, usually with SPORTS AND MAJOR
performances. The orchestra’s elaborate sets and costumes. ARENAS
official home is the Orpheum Professional dance compa-
Theater (see p95), a 1921 nies visit New Orleans several New Orleans loves its sports.
Beaux-Arts structure that is times a year under the aegis The vast Louisiana Superdome
currently under restoration of the New Orleans Ballet (see p95) is a national venue
following the devastating Association. There hasn’t been for sports, home of the annu-
a New Orleans Ballet al Sugar Bowl (see p43), and
since 1991, but the host to high-profile events
organization presents such as the Super Bowl. The
important companies hometown teams are the New
such as the Alvin Orleans Saints for football
Ailey American Dance and the New Orleans Hornets
Theater, the Miami for basketball. It is fairly easy
Ballet, and the Joffrey to get tickets, even when first-
Ballet. Several times a rate teams are playing. After
year, dance perform- Katrina, the venue was closed
ances are also held at for a year. It reopened in
Newcomb College of September 2006 after a multi-
Tulane Universityy (see million-dollar restoration.
pp110–11), a former For baseball, the city has
women’s college with the Triple-
T A minor-league
The musicians of the Louisiana a long history of dance inno- Zephyrs, a farm team of the
Philharmonic Orchestra vation and study. New York Mets. They play at
Zephyr Stadium, in suburban
after-effects of Katrina. The CASINOS Metairie, a state-of-the-art
Orpheum is due to reopen in facility that even has a hot tub
2011; in the meantime, the Legal gambling came to New for use if you rent the private
LPO performs at Dixon Hall, Orleans in the 1990s, but for picnic area. College baseball
part of Tulane University. The reasons no one can grasp, the is a big draw, especially the
symphony also holds several city has not fully embraced Tulane, University of New
outdoor concerts each year, in this pastime. A local theory Orleans, and Louisiana
either Audubon or City Park. is that New Orleans likes its State University teams.
Theater in New Orleans has vices illegal. Harrah’s Casino Horseracing has a long
become exciting with the rise (see p89) is the main gambling history in New Orleans. The
of new playwrights, adventur- operation in the city. The full- Fair Grounds race course (see
ous productions, and an experi- service casino is dazzling p126) is one of the oldest con-
mental stage. Leading the way inside, with interiors that tinuously operated tracks in
is Le Chat Noir, a cabaret that suggest a frozen Mardi Gras the country. The season runs
encourages young writers and theme. Slot machines pre- from November to March.
often features Broadway per-
formers in intimate shows.
The Southern Repertory
Theater is the city’s leading
theater company. It presents
strong new works from New
York, while actively seeking
out Louisiana playwrights.
There are also several
nomad theater groups that
perform in bars, coffeehouses,
and other unconventional
spaces, producing original
works with New Orleans
themes and reinterpreting
the classics – La Bohèmee in
drag, for instance. The Superdome, one of the country’s premier sports venues

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198 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

A major golf tournament is Lafitte National Historical The adventurous might enjoy
held at the TPC Golf Course Park gives an excellent free a trip aboard an all-terrain air-
on the West Bank, usually in daily tour of the Quarter, boat or a swamp tour. The
the last week of April. The but there are limited spaces. Airboat Swamp Tours are fast
name of the event changes Contact the Visitors’ Bureau and exciting; for a slower
every few years depending (NOMCVB) for information and more ecological look at
on the corporate sponsorship. on sign-up times. swamps, try the Pearl River
Specialty tours can be good Eco-Tours or Dr. Wagner’s
TOURS fun. For cemetery-only tours, Honey Island Swamp Tours.
contact the non-profit Save Cajun Pride Tours also visits
Tours, especially walking Our Cemeteries group. The swamps and plantations.
tours, are a great way to New Orleans Jazz National Some outfits offer combina-
experience New Orleans. Historical Park hosts free tion tours with a hotel pick-up
They are also the best option walking tours that trace the and drop-off. Be aware that
if you intend to visit the local growth of jazz. These don’t bus tours around the city have
cemeteries, some of which have regular schedules, so limited access to the French
are not safe for lone visitors. check with the NOMCVB. The Quarter, which bans large
The Historic New Orleans New Orleans Original Cocktail buses from its fragile interior
Walking Tours offers the best Tour explains that the cocktail streets. Tours by Isabelle does
regularly scheduled tours of was invented in New Orleans both city and plantation tours
the French Quarter (with a and delves into the history in small buses and vans. New
cemetery component) and of French Quarter bars. The Orleans Tours Inc. is a large,
of the Garden District. In the Culinary History Tour visits multiservice company that
French Quarter, the volunteer restaurants and provides offers a wide range of tours
Friends of the Cabildo also information about New around the city, as well as
runs a good tour; the Jean Orleans food and culture. to plantations and swamps.

DIRECTORY
ENTERTAINMENT Café Brasil Howlin’ Wolf Spotted Cat Bar
GUIDES 2100 Chartres St. 907 S Peters St. 623 Frenchmen St.
Map 5 E1. Map 4 C5. Tel 522-9653. Map 5 E1. Tel 943-3887.
Ambush
www.ambushmag.com Chris Owens Club www.howlin-wolf.com Tipitina’s
500 Bourbon St. 501 Napoleon Ave.
Gambit Le Bon Temps Roule Map 7 D4. Tel 895-8477.
Map 4 C2. Tel 523-6400.
www.bestofneworleans. 4801 Magazine St. www.tipitinas.com
com Circle Bar Map 7 D4. Tel 897-3448.
1032 St. Charles Ave. BARS
Offbeat Map 8 B2. Tel 588-2616. Louisiana
www.offbeat.com www.circlebarnola.com Music Factory Bacchanal
210 Decatur St. Fine Wines
Times-Picayune d.b.a. 600 Poland Ave.
www.nola.com Map 4 C3. Tel 586-1094.
618 Frenchmen St. Tel 948-9111.
www.louisianamusic
WWNO Map 5 E1. Tel 942-3731. www.bacchanalwine.com
www.drinkgoodstuff.com factory.com
www.wwno.org The Bulldog
WWOZ Donna’s Bar & Grill Melange 3236 Magazine St.
800 N Rampart St. Ritz Carlton, 921 Canal St. Map 7 F4. Tel 891-1516.
www.wwoz.org
Map 4 C1. Map 4 B3. Tel 524-1331. www.draftfreak.com
ROCK, BLUES, Tel 596-6914. www. www.ritzcarlton.com Carousel Bar
AND OTHER donnasbarandgrill.com Hotel Monteleone,
One-Eyed Jack’s
MUSIC VENUES Dragon’s Den 214 Royal St. Map 4 C3.
615 Toulouse St. Tel 523-3341. www.
& Club 435 Esplanade Ave.
Map 4 C2. Tel 569-8361. hotelmonteleone.com
1100 Tulane Ave. Map 5 E1. Tel 949-1750.
www.oneeyedjacks.net
Map 4 B3. Tel 587-3737.
Cooter Brown’s
The Famous Door
Republic Tavern
www.clubampersand.com 339 Bourbon St.
828 S Peters St. 509 S Carrollton Ave.
Map 4 C2. Tel 522-7626.
Blue Nile Map 6 A2. Tel 866-9104.
Map 4 C5. Tel 528-8282.
532 Frenchmen St. Fritzel’s www.cooterbrowns.com
www.republicnola.com
Map 5 E1. Tel 948-2583. 733 Bourbon St. F & M Patio Bar
www.bluenilelive.com Map 4 C2. Tel 561-0432. Snug Harbor 4841 Tchoupitoulas St.
Bombay Club House of Blues Jazz Bistro Map 7 D5. Tel 895-6784.
830 Conti St. Map 4 C2. 225 Decatur St. 626 Frenchmen St.
Kerry Irish Pub
Tel 586-0972. Map 4 C3. Tel 529-2583. Map 5 E1. Tel 949-0696. 331 Decatur St.
www.thebombayclub.com www.hob.com www.snugjazz.com Map 4 C3. Tel 527-5954.
 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N N E W O R L E A N S 199

DIRECTORY
Lafitte’s Blacksmith Cowpokes CASINOS Friends of the
Shop 2240 St. Claude Ave. Cabildo
941 Bourbon St. Tel 947-0505.
Boomtown Casino
523 St. Ann St.
Map 4 D1. Tel 593-9761. www.cowpokesno.biz 4132 Peters Road, Harvey.
Map 5 D2.
Tel 366-7711.
Loa at International Golden Lantern Tel 523-3939. www.
www.boomtown
House 1239 Royal St. Map 5 D1. friendsofthecabildo.org
221 Camp St. Map 4 C3. neworleans.com
Tel 529-2860.
Tel 553-9550. Harrah’s Casino Historic New
www.ihhotel.com/loa Good Friends 8 Canal St. Map 4 C4. Orleans Walking
740 Dauphine St. Tours
Loft 523 Tel 533-6000. www.
Map 4 C2. Tel 566-7191.
523 Gravier St. Map 4 C3. harrahsneworleans.com Tel 947-2120. www.
Tel 200-6523. www.goodfriendsbar.com
tourneworleans.com
www.loft523.com Treasure Chest
Napoleon’s Itch
5050 Williams Blvd, Jean Lafitte National
Molly’s at the Bourbon Orleans Hotel,
Kenner. Tel 443-8000. Historical Park
Market 734 Bourbon St.
www.treasurechestcasino. 419 Decatur St.
1107 Decatur St. Map 5 Map 4 C2. Tel 371-5450.
com Map 4 C3.
D2. Tel 525-5169. www. www.napoleonsitch.com
mollysatthemarket.net Tel 589-2636.
Oz SPORTS AND
Napoleon House www.nps.gov/jela
800 Bourbon St. MAJOR ARENAS
500 Chartres St. Map 4 C2. Tel 593-9491. New Orleans Jazz
Map 4 C2. Tel 524-9752. www.ozneworleans.com New Orleans
National Historical
www.napoleonhouse.com Hornets
Park
Parasol’s Bar THEATER, DANCE, Tel 525-4667.
916 N Peters St.
2533 Constance St. AND CLASSICAL www.hornets.com
MUSIC Map 5 D2. Tel 589-4841.
Map 8 A4. Tel 897-5413.
New Orleans Saints www.nps.gov/jazz
www.parasols.com
Dixon Hall Tel 731-1700. www.
Pat O’Brien’s Tulane University, neworleanssaints.com New Orleans
718 St. Peter St. 6823 St. Charles Ave. Original Cocktail
Map 4 C2. Tel 525-4823. TPC Golf Course
Map 8 B1. Tour
www.patobriens.com Zurich Classic Golf
Tel 569-1401. www.
Le Chat Noir Tournament, 11001
Polo Lounge graylineneworleans.com
715 St. Charles Ave. Lapalco Blvd, Avondale.
Windson Court Hotel, 300
Map 8 B1. Tel 436-8721. New Orleans
Gravier St. Map 4 C4.
Tel 581-5812. www. www.tpc.com Tours Inc.
Tel 523-6000. www.
windsorcourthotel.com cabaretlechatnoir.com www.pga.com Tel 592-1991.
Swizzle Stick Bar Louisiana Zephyr Stadium www.notours.com
Loews Hotel, 300 Philharmonic 6000 Airline Hwy.
Orchestra NOMCVB
Poydras St. Map 4 C4. Tel 734-5155. www.
Tel 595-3305. Tel 523-6530. (New Orleans
zephyrsbaseball.com
www.cafeadelaide.com www.lpomusic.org Metropolitan
TOURS Convention and
Vaughan’s Lounge McAlister
800 Lesseps St.
Visitors’ Bureau)
Auditorium
Tel 947-5562.
Airboat Swamp 2020 St. Charles Ave.
Tulane University,
Tours Tel (504) 566-5011.
Whiskey Blue 6823 St. Charles Ave.
4262 Hwy 90. www.neworleanscvb.com
W Hotel, 333 Poydras St. Map 8 B1.
Tel (985) 758-5531.
Map 4 C4. Tel 525-9444. New Orleans Pearl River
www.airboattours.com
www.mocbars.com
Ballet Association Eco-Tours
Tel 522-0996. Cajun Pride Tours
GAY AND LESBIAN 55050 US 90, Slidell.
www.nobadance.com Tel 467-0758. www.
BARS AND CLUBS Tel (866) 597-9267.
cajunprideswamptours.com
New Orleans www.laecotour.com
Bourbon Pub & Culinary History
Opera Association
Parade Disco Tour Save Our
Tel 529-2278. www.
801 Bourbon St. Cemeteries
neworleanspera.org Tel 427-9595. www.
Map 4 C2. Tel 529-2107. Tel 525-3377. www.
noculinarytours.com
www.bourbonpub.com Southern Repertory saveourcemeteries.org
Café Lafitte in Exile Theater Dr. Wagner’s Honey
901 Bourbon St. Canal Place Mall, 3rd floor. Island Swamp Tours Tours by Isabelle
Map 4 C1. Tel 522-8397. Map 4 C3. Tel 522-6545. Tel 242-5877. www. Tel 391-3544.
www.lafittes.com www.southernrep.com honeyislandswamp.com www.toursbyisabelle.com
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202 T R AV E L E R S ’ N E E D S

Children’s Entertainment and

Outdoor Activities
New Orleans is renowned as an
adult playground, but there are
many places in the area designed
especially for the younger genera-
tion. There is an enormous variety
of attractions and entertainment, from
the thrill rides in City Park to a ride
across the mighty Mississippi on the
Storyland at Canal Street ferry. The city also offers
City Park numerous outdoor activities for all
ages, from deep-sea fishing, tennis,
and golf, to swamp tours, birdwatching, biking, Roller coaster ride at Storyland
watersports, and horseback riding. in City Park

Gras float creator Blaine Kern

ZOOS, AQUARIUMS, AND (see p88). A working antique
AMUSEMENT PARKS carousel with 54 beautifully
carved animals, bumper cars,
Two major attractions for a miniature train, and the
children and grown-ups alike ubiquitous Tilt-a-Whirl com-
are the Audubon Zoo (see plete the carnival atmosphere.
p112–13) and the Audubon
Aquarium of the Americas FISHING
(see p90–91). The zoo is home
to more than 1,500 animals, New Orleans is a famous port.
many of which roam about in Farther south toward the Gulf,
natural habitats. The Louisiana shrimp boats and the larger
Swamp exhibit, the Jaguar deep-sea boats offer a glimpse
Jungle, and the touchy-feely of the industries that keep
Embraceable Zoo are all Louisiana rich. Anglers can fish
Supermarket for children at the geared toward education and in Lake Pontchartrain or in
Louisiana Children’s Museum understanding animals. The City Park’s lagoons, or charter
spectacular Audubon Aquari- a boat and try your luck at
MUSEUMS FOR um of the Americas houses the big fish: tarpon, snapper,
CHILDREN thousands of fish, marine and marlin. Angelle’s Atchafa-
mammals, and water birds. laya Basin Swamp Tours, Capt.
Many museums in and An IMAXA Theater shows doc- Nick’s Wildlife Safaris, and
around New Orleans have umentaries on ocean life, and Capt. Phil Robichaux’s Saltwa-
arts and educational programs a “Touch Pool” gives kids the ter Guide Service all offer fish-
designed specifically for opportunity to touch, feel, and ing tours and/or charters into
young audiences. The New see such underwater denizens the swamp, coastal water-
Orleans Museum of Art as sea stars and baby sharks. ways, and marshes. Hotel
(NOMA) A (see p120–23) has a Storyland (see p118) in shuttles, licenses, camera and
museum-on-wheels program City Park has 26 “storybook” film, and all equipment are
for kids, and also offers exhibits by the master Mardi provided by these companies.
guided tours focused on
children’s interests. The
Louisiana Children’s Museum
(see p97) caters to kids and
parents, and is specifically
designed to inspire questions
through hands-on exhibits,
including role-playing games.
Three museums in Kenner
are the Toy Train Museum, the
Mardi Gras Museum, and the
adjacent Kenner Planetarium
and they are well worth the
short trip outside the city.
Kenner is located to the
west of the city, between
New Orleans and Baton
Rouge on the I-10. Visitors at the Audubon Zoo

5/15/08 1:33:02 PM
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 E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N N E W O R L E A N S 203

RIVER CRUISES

A peaceful boat ride is an

alternative to the party
atmosphere and noise of
the city. Paddlewheelers
offer short excursions up
and down the Mississippi
River from the French Quarter
wharves. Swamp tours by flat-
boat or seaplane also abound,
charter boats and houseboats
are readily available, and you
can splash out and book a
week-long cruise on the
famous Delta Queen, which
runs from Pittsburgh all the
way to New Orleans and is
operated by the Majestic Lake Pontchartrain fishing area
America Line.
redesign. It is a flat, fast afternoon thunderstorms.
GOLF AND TENNIS course and the surroundings Greens fees vary from under
are beautiful. A bonus is the $20 to over $75 per person,
City Park’s Bayou Oaks is the park’s Golf Club, which and are highest in winter.
South’s largest public golf serves as a bar and restaurant. The City Park Tennis Center
course, offering four 18-hole The wraparound porch is the (see p119) has 21 hard courts
courses. The golf courses perfect place to enjoy lunch and 13 clay courts. All are
sustained heavy damage before or after your game. well-lit at night.
from flooding after Hurricane There are many country
Katrina and are being rebuilt golf clubs that allow guests, FITNESS CENTERS
and reopened in stages, one and some of the best and
course at a time. The driving most accessible of these are Many hotels have on-site
range reopened in 2007, and Belle Terre, Lakewood, Oak fitness centers where you
the North course in June Harbor, and the Chateau can use the weights room,
2008. The East and West Country Golf Club. Golf is a swim laps, relax in the
courses should be completed year-round sport, but winter sauna, or burn those extra
by 2011. The 18-hole course is the busiest season. If you calories on the treadmill.
in Audubon Park (see p111) play in summer, start early to The Downtown Fitness
has undergone a $6-million avoid the heat and the late Center welcomes guests.

DIRECTORY
MUSEUMS FOR FISHING/SWAMP RIVER CRUISES Chateau Country
CHILDREN TOURS Club Golf
Majestic America
3600 Chateau Blvd,
Kenner Planetarium Angelle’s Line/Delta Queen Metaire. Tell 467-1351.
2020 4th St, Robin St Wharf,
Atchafalaya www.chateaugc.com
Rivertown, Kenner. 1380 Port of New Orleans
Tell 468-7231. Basin Swamp Tours Place. Map 8 C3.
Lakewood
www.rivertown 4801 Gen. DeGaulle Dr.
Tell (337) 228-8567. Tell (800) 434-1332.
kenner.com Tell 235-5638.
www.majestic
Mardi Gras Capt. Nick’s americaline.com Oak Harbor
Museum Wildlife Safaris 201 Oak Harbor Blvd,
415 Williams Blvd, GOLF AND TENNIS Slidell. Tell (985) 646-
Tell 361-3004.
Rivertown, Kenner. 0110. www.oak
Bayou Oaks harborgolf.com
Tell 468-7231. Capt. Phil City Park, Filmore Ave.
www.rivertown
kenner.com Robichaux’s Map 2 A1. FITNESS CENTERS
Saltwater Guide Tell 483-9397.
Toy Train Museum www.neworleans
Downtown
519 Williams Blvd, Service Fitness Center
citypark.com
Rivertown, Kenner. 1842 Jean Lafitte Blvd, 333 Canal St, Suite 380.
Tell 468-7231. Belle Terre Map 4 C3. Tell 525-1404.
Jean Lafitte. 111 Fairway Dr, LaPlace.
www.rivertown www.downtown
kenner.com Tell 689-2006. Tell (985) 652-5000. fitnesscenter.com

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION

N ew Orleans is known through- you plan your visit. Personal Security and
out the world for its lively
social life and friendly
atmosphere. As long as visitors
take sensible precautions, they
Health (pp208–209) outlines a num-
ber of recommended precautions.
Banking and Currency (pp210–
211) answers essential financial
should enjoy a trouble-free stay. questions, while Communications
The Survival Guide that follows NOMCVB (pp212–213) has information on
logo
contains information that will help the phone and postal services.

Quarter are open till late, but

most other places operate from
10am to 6pm. Some bars in
New Orleans stay busy all day
and all night, every day of the
year. Live music usually starts
at 10pm, and it is a tradition
not to close the place until
the last guest leaves.

ADMISSION CHARGES

Admission charges to
museums range between $5
and $10, with up to 50 percent
discounts to students (with
ID cards) and senior citizens.
Children under 12 do not pay
in some museums. Many
Visitor Information Center, Greenwood museums do not charge
entrance fees but welcome a
FOREIGN VISITORS kinds of meat are prohibited, donation, while in others it is
as, of course, are weapons possible to buy membership
The conditions for entering and non-prescription drugs. on the spot. Most museums
New Orleans are the same as also have guided tours,
those for entering any other TOURIST INFORMATION souvenir stores, publications,
part of the United States. independent exhibitions, and
Citizens of the UK, most The New Orleans Metropolitan other events.
western European countries, Convention and Visitors’
Australia, New Zealand, Bureau (NOMCVB) is an ETIQUETTE
Singapore, and Japan need to invaluable source of
present a valid passport, but information for tourists. Maps, Smoking is prohibited in many
do not require a visa if their tourist guides, and discount public buildings, including
stay is for less than 90 days coupons for certain stores, stores and restaurants. Check
and they hold a return ticket. restaurants, bars, and hotels for no-smoking signs before
For information on what sort are provided free of charge. lighting up, or smoke outside
of passport is required and It also gives help in cases of
the validity needed, see www. loss, theft, or accidents,
visabureau.com. Canadian offering all the pertinent
citizens require only proof of information such as telephone
residence. Citizens of all other numbers and time schedules.
countries require a valid
passport and a tourist visa, OPENING HOURS
which can be obtained from
a US consulate or embassy. Schedules at major attractions
vary, but most museums
CUSTOMS ALLOWANCES open from 10am to 5pm; the
Aquarium is open from 10am
Visitors from abroad, older to 4pm. Most restaurants start
than 21, have the right to evening service at 5pm and
carry up to 100 US$ worth of continue until 10pm (11pm
cigarettes, a bottle of alcohol, Friday and Saturday), or until
and 3 lb (1.4 kg) of any kind the last guest leaves. Banks
of pipe tobacco. Fresh foods are open from 9am to 4pm. No-smoking area in Tujagues
such as cheese, plants, and all Souvenir stores in the French restaurant, French Quarter

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if you are unsure. The legal ELECTRICAL APPLIANCES 90 days. All shops in the air-
age for drinking alcohol is 21; port have tax-free shopping,
however, people up to the age Electrical current flows at 110 as do several businesses
of 30 may be asked to show volts AC (alternating current), throughout the city. Refunds
photo identification to get and appliances require two- and information can be
into bars and to buy alcohol. prong plugs. Some non-US obtained at the Tax Free
Tipping is expected for most appliances will require both a Counter, located in the main
services; tip 15–20 percent of plug converter and a 110–120- lobby of the main terminal of
the bill in restaurants, give $1 volt adaptor, compatible with the International Airport.
per bag to porters, and $1 to the US electricity system. Most
valet parking attendants. hotels have hairdryers and DIRECTORY
Bartenders expect 50 cents to sockets for electrical shavers.
$1 per drink. It is permissible TOURIST INFORMATION
to consume alcoholic drinks CONVERSION CHART
on the street in New Orleans, New Orleans Metro-
but they must be in plastic US Standard to Metric politan Convention and
containers called “go cups”. Bear in mind that 1 US pint Visitors’ Bureau
(0.5 liter) is a smaller measure 2020 St. Charles Ave, LA 70130.
ALCOHOL AND than 1 UK pint (0.6 liter). Tel (800) 672-6124.
DRIVING 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters www.neworleanscvb.com
1 foot = 30 centimeters New Orleans To
T urism
In the United 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers Marketing Corporation
States, penalties 1 ounce = 28 grams 365 Canal St, LA 70130.
for driving under 1 pound = 454 grams Tel (504) 524-4784.
the influence of 1 US quart = 0.947 liter www.neworleansonline.com
alcohol are 1 US gallon = 3.8 liters
severe. You can STUDENT INFORMATION
Parking lose your driver’s Metric to US Standard
sign license or even 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch STA Travel
spend a night in 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches Butler Hall
jail. If you intend to drink, 1 kilometer = 0.6 miles Tulane University, NO 70118.
ask someone else to drive 1 gram = 0.04 ounce Tel (504) 866-3850.
your car, or take a taxi home 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds www.statravel.com
(see pp 218–19). 1 liter = 1.1 US quarts Travel Cuts
Tel (800) 592-2887.
DISABLED TRAVELERS SENIOR CITIZENS www.travelcuts.com

Facilities for the physically Anyone over the age of DISABLED VISITORS’
impaired can be found all 65 is eligible for various INFORMATION
around the city; these include discounts with proof of age,
special parking spaces, and including up to 50 percent Advocacy Center for the
access and interior facilities, off the entry fee for museums Elderly and Disabled
such as elevators or moving and galleries. Contact the 1010 Common St, Suite 2600,
ramps in museums. Many American Association of NO 70112. Tel (504) 522-2337.
historic buildings, though, Retired Persons for details. www.advocacyla.org
do not have these facilities, Also, try the international
nor do most restaurants and senior travel organization SENIOR CITIZENS
bars. Disabled visitors should Elderhostel. For car rental,
enquire about mobility you may need to show your American Association
restrictions in advance. At passport, and you must have of Retired Persons
the airport, facilities for the a valid driver’s license. 601 E St NW, Washington DC,
disabled are strategically 20049. Tel (800) 687-2277.
placed. The Riverfront TAX FREE www.aarp.org
streetcar route and SHOPPING Elderhostel
some buses have 11 Ave de Lafayette,
special ramps for Louisiana tax- Boston, MA 02111-1746.
wheelchairs. A free shopping is Tel (877) 454-5768.
number of designed to www.elderhostel.org
cinemas and promote inter-
theaters have national tourism in TAX FREE SHOPPING
access ramps and Louisiana by giving a
may also have specially Tax free logo refund on sales taxes Louisiana Tax Free
equipped bathrooms. at participating Counter at the Inter-
r
When making a hotel merchants. It applies to those national Airport
reservation, be sure to ask who can show a foreign New Orleans International Airport.
for these services and check passport, an international Tel (504) 467-0723.
the width of the entrance and travel ticket, and who will be www.louisianataxfree.com
the rooms’ doors. in the country for less than

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208 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Personal Security and Health possible use well-lit public

parking lots or the valet
New Orleans is a very friendly city, and you can expect parking services of hotels
people to help you if anything goes wrong. However, and restaurants.
as in any large city, you must take some basic pre-
cautions for safety. It is important to know how to STAYING SAFE IN
identify and locate law enforcement officers, and also NEW ORLEANS
to identify the less safe areas of the city. Always check Since the return of the pop-
with friends and hotel staff before going out in the ulation following Hurricane
evening. It is also important to know how to find Katrina, crime in New Orleans
medical help if necessary. Although weather is has made international
generally good, New Orleans experiences some headlines. However, it is
extreme weather, with high humidity in the summer important to realize that most
and occasional damaging hurricanes. crime is largely contained
within areas historically
known for territorial clashes
LAW ENFORCEMENT day’s itinerary in advance, and between youths. It is unlikely
study your map before you set that a visitor to the city
The New Orleans Police off. AAvoid wearing expensive
Department has three divisions: jewelry, and carry your camera
one on foot, a second on or camcorder securely. Only
motorcycles, and a third in carry small amounts of cash;
patrol cars. All three patrol the credit cards and traveler’s
city streets, especially in the checks are a more secure
most popular areas, such as option. Keep these close
the French Quarter, the Garden to your body in a money
District, and the Central Busi- belt or inside pocket.
ness District. Because New Before you leave home,
Orleans has a lively nightlife, take a photocopy of impor-
there is a strong police tant documents, including
presence 24 hours a day. your passport and visa, and
keep it with you, separate
GUIDELINES ON SAFETY from the originals. Make a
note of your credit card
New Orleans has made great numbers, in the event of
strides in reducing crime rates, their being stolen. Keep an
but visitors still need to be eye on your belongings at
alert. Stay in a large group, if all times, whether checking
possible, when sightseeing out into or out of a hotel, Policeman Fireman
of doors and do not challenge standing at the airport, or
a thief – no camera or amount sitting in a restaurant. Keep would wander into one of
of money is worth the risk. any valuables in your hotel these neighborhoods since
Police officers regularly patrol safe, as most hotels will not they are largely devoid of
the tourist areas, but it is still guarantee their security if they architectural or historic charm,
wise to use common sense. are left in your room. Also be and lack cultural attractions.
Do not advertise the fact that careful not to tell strangers The streets of New Orleans
you are a visitor: where you are staying or to are safe just as long as you
prepare the let anyone you do keep certain safety measures
not know into in mind. The police run
your room. constant watches around the
When parking French Quarter. The Quarter’s
your car, avoid nightlife is characterized by
dark or quiet high levels of alcohol
streets, and consumption, and you can
whenever avoid trouble by steering
Police vehicle clear of drunken revelers.
Always use a taxi in the
“back of the Quarter”
area, from Rampart
Street to Interstate 10.
Do not travel by foot
alone outside of the
French Quarter
at night. In
general, if you
feel insecure,
Fire engine find a taxi.
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There are several venomous

snakes native to Louisiana,
but unless you are alone in
dense swamp or forest you
are unlikely to encounter
any. Biting and stinging
insects, including mosquitoes,
are a real nuisance between
April and November,
particularly in areas close
to fresh water and swamp-
land. Visits to parks and
reserves can be uncomfortable
if you do not wear a good
insect repellent.
Walgreens, one of the city’s 24-hour pharmacies
EMERGENCIES
LOST PROPERTY MEDICAL TREATMENT
To contact the emergency
Even though you have only Even if you have medical services, dial 911, free of
a slim chance of retrieving coverage you may still have charge, on any phone. The
stolen or lost property, it is to pay for any services you police patrol popular areas of
important to report the loss to use, and then claim town, and they have
the police. Keep a copy of the reimbursement from your experience covering large
police report if you are plan- insurance company. If you events such as Mardi Gras
ning to make an insurance take medication, it is (see pp28–9). If you are
claim. Most credit card compa- important to bring a back-up arrested for any reason, you
nies have toll-free numbers for prescription with you. have the right to remain silent
reporting a loss, as do Thomas Pharmacies close to the and are permitted to make
Cook and American Express French Quarter are open from one phone call.
for lost traveler’s checks (see 9am to 7pm every day. For Non-US citizens should
p211). If you lose your pass- longer hours there are several contact their embassy or
port, contact your embassy or 24-hour pharmacies or ask consulate for legal assistance.
consulate immediately. your hotel for assistance. For
Airport Operations retains dental emergencies, call either DIRECTORY
items that have been lost in the New Orleans Dental Asso-
public areas of the terminal. ciation or the Medical Center SECURITY AND HEALTH
The office is located on the of Louisiana, which are both
upper level of the West Lobby, open 24 hours a day. Medical Center of
and it is open 24 hours a day. Louisiana
You can also contact them at NATURAL HAZARDS Tel (800) 256-2311.
(504) 464-2671 or (504) 464- Emergencies
2672. Items that have Hurricanes are infre- Tel 911.
been turned in to quent but devastating
Police
Lost and Found are when they do strike.
(Non-Emergency)
donated to charity There are tried and
Tel (504) 821-2222.
after 30 days. If you tested emergency
lose items in the air- procedures, and if Fire
line’s exclusive areas the worst should (Non-Emergency)
(ticket counters, gate happen, follow the Tel (504) 658-4700.
areas, or airplanes), announcements on Dental Association
check with that par- local television and Tel (504) 834-6449.
ticular airline’s bag- radio. You may also
gage office located Hospital sign check the National PHARMACIES
on the lower level. Hurricane Center’s
forecasts online at www. RiteAid Pharmacy
TRAVEL INSURANCE nhc.noaa.gov. In case of 3401 St. Charles Ave.
emergency, a hotline in Map 7 F4.
Travel insurance is highly Louisiana may also be Tel (504) 896-4575.
recommended. It can help in established before a storm www.riteaid.com
case of loss or theft of strikes. However, the most Walgreens Drugstore
personal goods, or if travel frequent climatic hazard to 619 Decatur St. Map 4 C3.
arrangements fall through. affect visitors is the sun. Tel (504) 525-7263.
Visitors from abroad should Use high-factor sunscreen 900 Canal St.
obtain insurance for lotions and try to wear a hat. Map 4 B3.
emergency medical or dental Remember that heat can be Tel (504) 568-1271.
care, which can be expensive as big a problem as sunlight;
www.walgreens.com
in the United States. drink plenty of fluids.
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210 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Banking and Currency also essential if you want to

reserve a hotel room or book
Throughout New Orleans there are various places to a rental car. Credit cards can
access and exchange your money. Bank branches are also be useful in emergencies
open during the week, and there are numerous ATMs.
A when cash may not be
Foreign currency can be exchanged in comparatively readily available.
few places, and exchange rates tend to be poorer than CASHING TRAVELER’S
at home. The best rule is to take plenty of US dollar CHECKS
traveler’s checks, and a credit card or two.
Traveler’s checks are by
There are also A ATMs in far the most convenient
various restaurants and way to carry money, both
bars around town, mainly in for practicality’s sake and
the French Quarter. These for security (lost or stolen
machines enable you to checks can be refunded).
withdraw US banknotes, They may even be used as
usually $20 bills, from your cash in many places: US
bank or credit card account dollar traveler’s checks are
at home. Be aware that a commonly accepted in shops,
fee will be levied on your restaurants, bars, and hotels.
withdrawal depending on Those issued by American
the bank; always check the Express, VISA, or Thomas
bank’s policy before making Cook are the most widely
a withdrawal. recognized. Change will be
Automated teller machine at a local Before leaving home, ask given in cash; if your checks
branch bank your credit card company or are in large denominations,
bank which American ATM A always ask if there is enough
BANKING systems or banks will accept money in the cash register
your bankcard, and check before you countersign,
Banks are generally open the cost of each transaction. otherwise you may waste
Monday to Friday from 9am Make sure, too, that you a check needlessly.
to 4pm. There are some, have (and remember) your To exchange your traveler’s
however, that open as early PIN (Personal Identification checks into cash directly,
as 8:30am and stay open until Number). The largest ATM
A go to a bank, an exchange
5pm. Always ask if any special systems are Plus and Cirrus, bureau, or the front desk
fees apply before you make which accept VISA, American of your hotel. Remember to
your transaction. US dollar Express, and MasterCard, inquire about commission
traveler’s checks can be cashed as well as a number of US fees before starting your
at most banks, so long as you bank cards. transaction, as these can
bring some form of identifica- Automated teller machines vary greatly. All banks can
tion that carries your photo- give you 24-hour access to exchange dollar traveler’s
graph (e.g., a passport, a cash, but remember to take checks, but you will get the
driver’s license, or an Interna- care when best rates in big
tional Student Identity Card). using them in banks or at private
Foreign currency exchange is deserted areas, exchange offices.
available at the main branches especially after The latter are
of large banks, many of which dark; be vigi- not common,
have separate areas or teller lant of people but American
windows specifically for for- around you. Express and
eign exchange. Credit unions Thomas Cook
will serve only their members, CREDIT CARDS both have
so look for banks that offer branches in
service to the general public, Credit cards are part American Express New Orleans,
such as Capital One and of everyday life in charge cards as well as in a
Whitney. Numerous branches New Orleans, just as number of other
of these can be found in the they are in other parts of the cities around the state. Both
French Quarter, the Central country. The most widely companies also have toll-
Business District, and also accepted credit cards are free numbers for reporting
along St. Charles Avenue.
A VISA, MasterCard, American lost or stolen checks.
Express, Diners Club, and Traveler’s checks in other
AUTOMATED TELLER Discover Card. currencies cannot be used in
MACHINES (ATMS) Besides being a much safer shops, and only some banks
alternative to carrying a lot and hotels will exchange
Most banks in New Orleans of cash, credit cards also them. Personal checks drawn
have automated teller offer some useful additional on overseas banks, such as
machines in their lobbies benefits, such as insurance Eurochecks, cannot be used
or in an external wall. on your purchases. They are in New Orleans.
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P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 211

Coins
America’s coins (actual size shown) come in DIRECTORY
1-dollar, 50-, 25-, 10-, 5-, and 1-cent pieces. Western Union
The new Golden Dollar, released on January Wiring money, US.
26, 2000, features the likeness of Sacagawea, Tel (800) 325-6000.
a Shoshone Indian woman who assisted and Wiring money, UK.
guided the Lewis and Clark expedition Tel 0800 833833.
across the northwest US. On the flip side is www.westernunion.com
a Bald Eagle and 17 stars, indicating the 25-cent coin
17 American states at the time (a quarter) American Express
of the exploration. Moneygram US only.
Tel (800) 543-4080.
www.americanexpress.com
Check replacement.
Tel (800) 221-7282.
Stolen credit and charge cards.
Tel (800) 528-4800.
10-cent coin 5-cent coin 1-cent coin Thomas Cook
(a dime) (a nickel) (a penny)
(and MasterCard)
Check replacement and stolen
Bank Notes
credit cards.
The Golden Dollar has not replaced the
Tel (800) 223-9920.
dollar bill, which is still the more widely
www.thomascook.com
used form of this unit of currency. Paper
bills were first issued in 1862 when coins Visa
were in short supply, and the Civil War Check replacement.
needed financing. The size of the notes, Tel (800) 227-6811.
the portraits, and the back designs were Stolen credit cards.
decided in 1929; in the 1990s the art- Tel (800) 336-8472.
work for most of the bills was re-engraved. www.visa.com
Diners Club
Check replacement/stolen cards.
Tel (800) 234-6377.
www.dinersclub.com

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 212 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Communications
Because New Orleans is a major US city, TELEPHONE CHARGES
the full range of telephone, fax, and
Internet services is available. Public Toll-free numbers (prefixed
by 800, 866, 877, or 888) are
telephones can be found on many street common in the United States,
corners, in shops, hotels, restaurants, and and are well worth taking
bars. Stamps are available not only at advantage of, though some
post offices but also at many drugstores hotels impose an access
Postal service and hotels, and additional postal services charge for these calls. You
logo are available from private carrier firms. can also dial these numbers
Local newspapers are useful for infor- from abroad, but note that
mation on events around town, and national and they are not toll-free.
When making a local call
foreign newspapers are also available. from a public telephone, 35
cents will buy you three min-
PUBLIC TELEPHONES gain access to your required utes’ time. For long-distance
number. Alterna- domestic calls the
Public telephones can be tively, you can cheapest rate runs
found all over the city, mainly use your credit from 11pm to 8am
in gas stations and stores. card on some on weekdays and
Most public telephones take phones: dial (800) weekends. Direct
coins only, but some also CALLATT
A (225- calls can also be
accept credit cards. About 5288): at the made from hotel
$8 worth of quarters is prompt, key in rooms, but they
needed to make an inter- your credit card usually carry hefty
national call. However, there number, and wait surcharges. Unless
is a growing number of card- to be connected; Public telephone sign you are using your
operated phones, using both you will be charged own international
credit and electronic cards. at normal rates. Telephone telephone card, it is better to
Some of these take special directories provide details use the payphone in the lobby.
pre-paid cards which involve of the going rates and are
dialing a toll-free number to found in most public phones. REACHING THE RIGHT
USING A COIN-OPERATED PHONE NUMBER
• Direct-dial call outside
1 Lift the receiver
and wait for
2 Insert the
correct coin
or coins.
the local area code
the dial tone. within the United States
and Canada: dial 1.
• International direct-dial
call: dial 011 followed
3 Enter the
number. 4 If you decide
not to make a
by country code (UK:
44; Australia: 61; New
connection, or if Zealand: 64) then the
the call does not
get through, you city or area code (omit
Coins can retrieve your the first 0), and the local
Make sure you money by pressing number.
the coin return. • International call via ope-
have plenty of
these coins rator: dial 01, then the
available. country code, plus the
city code (minus the first
0), and the local number.
• International directory
5If the call is
answered and
you talk for longer
inquiries: dial 00.
• International operator
5 cents
than the allowed assistance: dial 01.
time, the operator
will interrupt and • An 800, 866, 877, or 888
ask you to deposit prefix indicates a toll-
more coins. If you free number.
10 cents cannot complete a • All directory assistance:
call, the phone
returns your coins.
dial 411.
• Useful area codes: Cajun
Country, 337; Baton
Rouge, 225; southeast
Louisiana (except New
Orleans), 985.
25 cents

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 P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 213

Directory assistance is often a little more a free weekly paper

free of charge by dialing expensive. distributed in cafés, shops,
411 (local) or 00 (inter- Surface mail sent and hotels, is a good source
national). Operator overseas from the US of more in-depth entertain-
assistance is available takes several weeks, ment and lifestyle news. For
by dialing 0 (local) or so it is better to send comprehensive national and
01 (international). All letters via airmail, international news, look to
operator-assisted calls which takes five to the New York Times or USA
carry a surcharge. For ten working days. Today, both of which are
emergency services All domestic mail available from coin-operated
only (fire, police, or goes first class and boxes all over the CBD and
ambulance) call 911. takes from one to French Quarter. Foreign
International rates five days (longer newspapers are available
vary depending on if you forget to at good bookstores.
which country you Standard US include the zip
mailbox
are contacting. code). You can pay
extra for Priority
INTERNET AND FAXES Mail for a delivery of two to
three days, or Express Mail,
The rise in popularity of which offers next-day deliver-
personal computers has ies in the US, and within two
pushed fax machines off the to three days to many foreign
list of crucial communications countries. Be sure to use the
equipment. Faxing can right mailbox for the required
usually be done at your hotel, service. Mailboxes are painted
although it is likely you will blue, while Express and Prior-
be charged for it. ity boxes are silver and blue.
For Internet access, try Many Americans use private
the French Quarter Postal courier services, such as UPS, Local and national newspapers
Emporium or the FedEx DHL, and FedEx, for both
Kinko’s shops, which also domestic and international NEW ORLEANS TIME
offer fax, mail; they offer next-day deli-
printing, veries to most destinations. New Orleans and Louisiana
are in the Central Standard
TELEVISION AND RADIO Time Zone (CST), which is
six hours behind Greenwich
Most hotel televisions have Mean Time (GMT). If you
cable or satellite hook-up, are making an international
offering 60 channels plus the phone call from the city,
national networks ((ABC, CBS, add six hours for the United
NBC, and FOX). The cable Kingdom, 15 hours for
channels offer more variety: Australia, and 17 hours
Colorful US postage stamps ESPN is devoted to sports, for New Zealand.
and CNN to news.
and shipping services. Many Most radio stations broad- DIRECTORY
hotels have business centers cast pop music, but if you
where guests can use a hunt around (especially on POSTAL SERVICES
computer; if not, they should the FM band) you can often UPS
at least have dataports where pick up entertaining local Tell (800) 742-5877.
you can connect your laptop. stations. WWL (870 AM)
FedEx
More and more places are broadcasts local news, and Tell (800) 463-3339.
also offering wireless Internet. country music; National
Most coffee houses and bars Public Radio WWNO (89.9 DHL
Tell (800) 225-5345.
have free WiFi available for FM) broadcasts national
their patrons. news and classical music. The Main Post Office
Jazz & Heritage Foundation 701 Loyola Ave.
Tell (800) 275-8777.
POSTAL SERVICES station WWOZ (90.7 FM) is a
remarkable institution, with INTERNET AND FAXES
Post offices are usually open jazz, Latin, Cajun, and zydeco
from 9am to 5pm on week- programs 24 hours daily. FedEx Kinko’s
days, with some branches 762 and 6823 St. Charles Ave.
open on Saturday mornings. NEWSPAPERS Tel (504) 581-2541 and (504)
Drugstores and hotels sell 862-5799.
stamps, and some department The only daily newspaper French Quarter Postal
stores and transportation in New Orleans is The Times- Emporium
terminals have stamp vending Picayune, found in hotel 1000 Bourbon St.
machines; stamps bought lobbies and street dispensers Tel (504) 525-6651.
from vending machines are throughout the city. Gambit,
 214 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

TRAVEL INFORMATION
M any international airlines have frantic and often less expensive way to
direct flights to New Orleans, travel for those arriving from other
and charter and domestic
services are numerous. Growing
competition be-
North American cities. For visitors
arriving by car or
bus, there can be
tween airlines has little to beat the spec-
reduced prices in low tacular views of the city
seasons, making flying an even Passenger jet arriving when driving into New Orleans
in the city
more attractive alternative to by way of the River Road. If
traveling by bus or train. Amtrak trains you are planning to stay in the city
run from major cities in the United center, it is not necessary to rent a car;
States to the center of the city. Long- most of the sights are within easy
distance luxury bus services offer a less walking distance of one another.

ARMSTRONG
INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT FACILITIES

New Orleans International

Airport is the ninth-largest
arrival and departure airport
in the United States. Visitors
will find customs, sightseeing
information, baggage claim,
car-rental desks, and ground
transportation into the city on
the lower level of the airport.
The top level, on the other
hand, contains services for
Passenger jet at Armstrong International Airport travelers departing from New
Orleans, including foreign
ARRIVING BY AIR Keep an eye out for promo- exchange offices, ticket and
tional fares and package tours, insurance counters, restau-
All the major US airlines, which offer good deals on rants, bars, baggage handlers,
including Continental charter flights. and shops. The Louisiana
Airlines, American Airlines, Off-season fares are cheap, tax-free refund offices can
Southwest Airlines, United and you will often get a better also be found on this level.
Airlines, and Delta Air Lines, deal if you fly in the middle There are nine Telephone
have scheduled services to of the week. During holiday Display Devices (TDD)
New Orleans. Most also periods like December, and located throughout the
offer flights from abroad, special events like Mardi Gras airport. Whitney National
but these usually entail a (see pp28–9), seats are always Bank, located in the ticket
stop at a US airport en route. in big demand, and air fares lobby, is one of the main
From Canada and Mexico, can rocket to more than banking facilities in the
Air Canada and Continental double their usual price. airport. A
ATMs (automated
Airlines have scheduled teller machines)
flights to New Orleans, while are located in
American Airlines, Continental, several places; in
Delta, Northwest, and United the East Lobby near
Airlines operate from the UK. Concourse B, in the
ticket lobby next to
AIR FARES the bank, in the West
Terminal, on the
The cheapest round-trip Lower Level near the
fares to New Orleans are Southwest Airlines
generally economy or APEX Baggage Claim, and
tickets on scheduled flights on the Lower Level
(which must be booked in near the Charter
advance). The competition Baggage Claim.
between travel agencies and There is a baggage
the numerous airlines serving storage-check service
New Orleans makes it well Travelers at a check-in desk, Armstrong on the ground floor
worth shopping around. International Airport of the aiport, called

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 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 215

VIP Baggage Check. For

security reasons, lockers are
no longer available for use.
There is also a Traveler’s
Aid booth located in the East
Baggage Claim. Traveler’s
Aid provides assistance to
travelers in distress and
provides tourist information.
your requirements. Overseas
GETTING TO AND FROM Long-distance Greyhound bus visitors should also note
THE AIRPORT that passes may be less
Business District, a short taxi expensive if you buy them
Armstrong International ride from the center of New from a Greyhound agent
Airport is about 12 miles Orleans. Three major Amtrak outside the United States.
(19 km) from the center of trains serve New Orleans: the The Greyhound buses
the city, about a 45-minute Crescentt (from New York share Union Passenger
express bus trip. Bus and taxi City/A
/ tlanta), the City of Terminal (see p221) with
stands are located outside the New Orleanss (from Chicago), the Amtrak train operations.
terminal on the first level. and the Sunset Limited d (from This terminal provides full
There are two Airport Los Angeles). Noted for their baggage, ticketing, and pack-
Shuttle Services from the air- comfort and luxury, all long- age express services through-
port to the Central Business distance trains have a full out the day and into the early
District, costing $15 per trip. complement of refreshment hours of the morning.
To get back to the airport, facilities and sleeping
call from your hotel at least accommodations. DIRECTORY
two hours in advance. Passengers should reserve
Jefferson Transit runs seats in advance on many AIRLINES
the only public bus route services during peak periods.
between downtown and Amtrak offers special deals Air Canada
the airport. The E-2 Airport and packages, including Tel (888) 247-2262.
Downtown Express costs 5-, 15- and 30-day passes www.aircanada.com
$1.10 and takes about 45 that allow unlimited travel. American Airlines
minutes. The bus stops on These are available for only Tel (800) 433-7300.
Elks Place and Tulane international travelers. www.aa.com
A
Avenue. It operates seven Visitors traveling to New
days a week, from about Orleans by train will arrive Continental Airlines
5:30am until midnight. at Amtrak’s terminal in the Tel (800) 523-3273.
Taxicabs are usually Central Business District, www.continental.com
plentiful, and cost about near the Superdome. From
$28 to the center of the here there are plenty of Delta Air Lines
city. In the airport there taxis that will take you to Tel (800) 221-1212.
are six car-rental companies, the main hotel areas. www.delta.com
so shop around for the Southwest Airlines
best rates. GETTING TO NEW Tel (800) 435-9792.
ORLEANS BY BUS www.southwest.com
GETTING TO NEW
ORLEANS BY TRAIN Long-distance coach services United Airlines
to almost all parts of the Tel (800) 864-8331.
Trains and buses arrive United States are operated www.united.com
and depart from Union by Greyhound Bus Lines.
Passenger Terminal, located The buses are modern, TRAIN INFORMATION
at the edge of the Central clean, and safe. Some services
are “express,” with few stops Amtrak
between major destinations, Tel (800) 872-7245.
while others serve a great-
er number of cities. BUS INFORMATION
If you are Greyhound Bus Lines
planning to
Tel (800) 231-2222.
break your
journey several SHUTTLE BUSES
times along the
way, or you Airport Shuttle Services
want to tour Tel (504) 522-3500.
the country on
an extended Jefferson Transit
trip, there are various tour Tel (504) 818-1077.
Amtrak train packages designed to suit

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216 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Getting Around New Orleans

Although most of the city’s popular tourist
sights in and near the French Quarter are
easily accessible on foot, New Orleans
also has a useful public transportation
system. Bus routes cover the city, and no
visitor should miss the chance to travel on
the oldest streetcar in the nation. VisiTour
passes allow unlimited travel on buses
and streetcars for one to three days.
Riverboats also provide a pleasant way
Bus stop sign to see the sights along the basin of the
Mississippi River. Taxis are affordable and
convenient, and are recommended for trips after dark
to areas outside the French Quarter.
St. Charles Avenue streetcar on
kiosks, and in a small number Canal Street
of hotels. Always ask for a
transfer when you pay; this District. The streetcar runs
will enable you to change to about every 15 minutes from
another bus, if necessary. 6am to midnight during the
To indicate that you want week, and on weekends from
to get off, pull the cord that 8am to midnight. Pay the
runs along the window, or tell streetcar driver when you
the driver. The “stop reques- board; you can exit from either
ted” sign above the front the front of the car or the back,
window will light up. Instruc- depending on how crowded
tions about how to open the the streetcar is. Remember to
doors are posted near the pull the cord if you want to
exit. Make sure you look stop at a certain street.
RTA bus, showing route number carefully for oncoming traffic The first stop for the St.
and destination when alighting from the bus. Charles streetcar is at the cor-
If you are unsure where to ner of Canal and Carondelet
TRAVELING BY BUS get off, ask the driver. streets. The streetcar turns on
Smoking, drinking, eating, to Canal Street, then back
Bus stops are indicated and playing music are all around again on St. Charles
by white and yellow signs prohibited on buses. Guide for the trip uptown. The
displaying the Regional dogs for the blind are the car travels the length of St.
Transit Authority (RTA) logo. only animals allowed on Charles Avenue, turning on
Route numbers of buses stop- RTA vehicles. Front seats are to Carrollton Avenue at the
ping there are usually listed reserved for senior citizens Riverbend. The line continues
at the bottom of the sign. and disabled passengers. up Carrollton to Claiborne
Buses stop only at desig- Avenue, where it terminates.
nated bus stops which are STREETCARS The return trip is the reverse
located every two or three of the outbound trip, but St.
blocks, depending on the area The Riverfront streetcar line Charles Avenue becomes one-
of the city. On boarding, put travels a distance of 2 miles way outbound at Lee Circle,
the exact change or number (3 km) along the Mississippi so the final leg of the inbound
of tokens in the fare box, or River near the Riverfront, from trip takes Carondelet Street to
show your VisiTour pass to Esplanade Avenue, at the far get back to Canal Street.
the driver. The pass can be side of the French Quarter, to The Canal streetcar line
bought through the RTA the New Orleans Convention meets the Riverfront streetcar
offices, at tourist information Center in the Central Business at Esplanade Avenue, and runs

New Orleans city bus

 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 217

to City Park Avenue. There is

also a spur line along North
Carrollton Avenue, linking
Canal Street to City Park
Avenue at Beauregard Circle.

NEW ORLEANS TAXIS

Taxis, better known as cabs,

are easily found at airports,
bus and train stations, major
hotels, and regular taxi stands.
If you need to get somewhere
on time, it is best to call a
taxi company and arrange a
pickup at a definite time and
place. Most hotels have lines Pedestrians in Jackson Square
of taxis waiting outside for a
fare. In general, all drivers are shoes; the sidewalks and James Audubon, makes the
extremely knowledgeable and streets in the Quarter are very trip from the Audubon Aquar-
friendly, and all fares should old and hard to navigate. Parts ium of the Americas to the
be metered according to the of Mid-City and the Central Audubon Zoo (see p112–13),
distance traveled. All taxis Business District are best taking about one hour. Finally,
have a light displayed on avoided at night, but it is wise there is the steamboat Natchez
their windshield; this indicates to be cautious at all times in (see pp64–5) which offers a
when they are available. all areas of New Orleans. two-hour tour in the morning,
and a night cruise with an
excellent buffet and live jazz.

DIRECTORY
RIVER BOATS

Cajun Queen
Taxicab Audubon Aquarium of the
Americas.
Tel (504) 529-4567.

Creole Queen
Canal St at Riverwalk.
Tel (504) 529-4567.

John James Audubon

Luxury taxicab Audubon Aquarium of the
Americas / Audubon Zoo.
WALKING RIVERBOATS Tel (504) 529-4567.

Because the city is made up Steamboats began plying the

of distinct neighborhoods, it Mississippi River at the
is often simplest to take public beginning of the 19th cen-
transportation to a particular tury, bringing new settlers
neighborhood and then to to New Orleans from the
explore on foot. The French north. Today, the riverboats,
Quarter is compact, and you offer tours stopping at pop-
can stroll around it. Only out- ular destinations. The Cajun
side the Quarter do you need Queen has a harbor cruise
to watch for traffic; “Walk” lasting an hour and a half,
and “Don’t walk” signs are on leaving from and returning
major streets to prevent jay- to the Audubon Aquarium
walking. Wear comfortable of the Americas (see pp90–
91). The Creole Queen has
two cruises; a day trip to
the Chalmette Battlefield
(see p88) where the Battle
of New Orleans took place
(see p17), and a night cruise
Do not cross You may cross which includes dinner accom- Traditional paddlewheeler cruising the
the road the road panied by live jazz. The John Mississippi River

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218 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Driving in New Orleans check for oncoming traffic,

and then proceed with
Despite heavy traffic and a severe shortage of parking caution. Passing (overtaking)
lots and curb-side spaces, having a car in New Orleans is allowed on both sides on
can be a convenience, especially if you want to visit multi-lane roads, including
the surrounding countryside. However, a good public Interstate highways, but it is
illegal to change lanes across
transportation network (see pp216–17) and short a double yellow or double
distances between sights make driving in the city white solid line. If a school
unnecessary. Driving in New Orleans takes patience, bus stops on a two-way road
good driving skills, good humor, and the ability to read to drop off or pick up child-
the road and the street signs quickly. ren, traffic in both directions
must stop until the bus moves
on. On a divided highway,
only traffic traveling in the
same direction as the bus
needs to stop. Be aware that
street signs are often missing
or hard to read, especially
along St. Charles Avenue.
A
Driving under the influence
(DUI) of alcohol or drugs is
illegal, and is punishable by
a heavy fine, loss of your
license, or a jail sentence.

TRAFFIC SIGNS

Colorful signs and symbols

Streetcar and heavy traffic on Canal Street point the way to the main
tourist areas such as the
RENTING A CAR All rental cars are automatic, French Quarter, Audubon and
have power brakes and City Parks, and the Garden
In New Orleans you must be steering, and air-conditioning. District. Street-name signs
at least 21 years old with a Refill the car with gas before are posted on light posts or
valid driver’s license (US or returning it or you will pay on telephone poles, as are
International Driver’s License) a large service charge and directional and informational
to rent a car. Rates may be inflated gas prices. signs. Large red hexagonal
high for anyone under the stop signs are posted at
age of 25. All agencies require TRAFFIC REGULATIONS intersections without traffic
a major credit card or a large lights. Be absolutely sure to
cash deposit, a reservation In New Orleans the traffic pay attention to parking
voucher, and insurance. In travels on the right side of restriction signs in the French
the event of a breakdown, the road. Seatbelts are com- Quarter; due to lack of
call the car-rental company pulsory for both drivers and parking spaces for residents,
first. Members of the AAA passengers. Children under your car may be towed if you
( utomobile Association of
(A three must sit in a child seat. are even one minute over the
America www.aaa.com) can You can turn right on a red time limit.
also use their emergency light unless there are signs to
number to ask for assistance. the contrary, but you must FUEL
Most car rental agencies come to a stop first. A flashing
offer a range of vehicles, from amber light at an intersection Compared to European prices,
“economy” to “deluxe” models. means you must slow down, gas (petrol) is relatively
TRAFFIC SIGNS
A range of different signs Slippery
offer information and road
instructions for drivers.
Speed limits may vary Traffic flows in a single direction
every few miles, depend-
ing on the conditions of
the road and the amount
of traffic. In more remote
areas, drivers must watch
out for wildlife that may
stray on to the roads,
especially alligators Maximum Right turn Left turn Stop at
and armadillos. speed in mph restriction allowed intersection
 Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146812 2:30
2 W2k-22
1 219 16/04/08 K09 00
Size: 125 x 217 (Bleed5mm) 000 206

T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 219

inexpensive in the US. It is retrieve your car, you must first

sold by the US gallon, equal pay the fine, and have your
to 3.8 liters. Gas stations are driver’s license, registration,
sparse downtown, so be sure or rental voucher available.
to fill up the tank before If your car is not at the
driving into remote areas. pound, there is a chance that
Some pumps take credit it has been stolen. In the
cards; in self-service stations Insert coins latter instance, call the police
you pay after filling the tank. department for information
Many stations have a conven- Insert card
on how to proceed.
ience store where you can
buy refreshments and pay for Print DIRECTORY
your gas. receipt
CAR RENTAL
Take AGENCIES
PARKING receipt

Parking in New Orleans can Alamo

be complicated, difficult, and Tel (800) 327-9633.
costly. Parking areas and A modern www.goalamo.com
garages in hotels often post parking meter
Avis
their prices at the entrance. Tel (800) 331-1212.
Many of the downtown make a note of the time limits. www.avis.com
businesses have designated The city has modernized some
parking lots and offer meters, which now accept Budget
discounted or free parking notes and credit cards. Rush Tel (800) 527-0700.
for shoppers. It is almost hours in the city are Monday www.budget.com
impossible to find a curb-side through Friday from 7 to 9am
Cruise America
parking place in the French and from 4 to 6pm. Parking
Quarter, and many of the on any major street or Motorhome Rental
streets, such as Bourbon and thoroughfare in the city is Tel (800) 327-7799.
Royal, are often forbidden www.cruiseamerica.com
closed to traffic. during Mardi Dollar
The streets in Gras (pp28–9). Tel (800) 800-4000.
the French It is best not www.dollarcar.com
Quarter are to disregard
extremely certain parking Hertz
narrow; be prohibitions, Tel (800) 654-3131.
aware that such as near a www.hertz.com
parking on the fire hydrant or
street can result No Parking and a crosswalk, at POLICE DEPARTMENT
not only in a No Stopping signs bus stops, in TOWED VEHICLE
towed-away car handicapped, INFORMATION
but also one that may have reserved, or parade route
received some damage from areas, and during street Parking Division
passing garbage trucks, cleaning. Street cleaning in Tel (504) 565-7450.
produce or other delivery the French Quarter takes www.cityofno.com
trucks, or exuberant revelers. place every day, early in the Traffic Court
There are parking meters all morning. The tow-away crew Tel (504) 364-4060.
over the city, but be sure to in New Orleans is very active, www.cityofno.com
so be aware of all “No Park-
ing” signs. The airport has a TAXIS
large long- and short-term
parking area if you wish to Checker Yellow Cabs
leave your car and take a taxi Tel (504) 943-2411.
into the city.
Liberty Bell Cabs
PENALTIES Tel (504) 822-5974.

United Cabs
If you have parked on the
Tel (504) 522-9771.
street and cannot find your
car, first call the Claiborne
PUBLIC
Auto Pound (565-7456) to
TRANSPORTATION
find out if it has been towed
away. Be prepared to give the The Lift-Handicapped
following information: the Service
license plate number, the make Tel (504) 827-7433.
Pedestrianized Royal Street, at the and color of the car, and where www.norta.com
heart of New Orleans you parked it. In order to

USNO_218-219
US
U
USN
SNO
S N 218-219 SG8.indd 219
219
19
220 S U R V I VA L G U I D E

Traveling Outside New Orleans smaller towns in Cajun

Country or to off-the-beaten-
The best way to see the areas around New Orleans is path areas is not as well
by car. Public transportation outside the city is scarce, so defined. Your best bet is to
try an organized bus tour, or rent a vehicle. Take a day book a tour or rent a car.
or two for a trip down to Avery
A Island or into Cajun Greyhound’s Ameripass
offers up to 60 consecutive
Country; drive the Great River Road along the mighty days of unlimited travel
Mississippi and visit the plantations; go exploring in anywhere in the US. Tickets
the bayous. If hunting, fishing, or boating interests may be less expensive if you
you, Louisiana is truly a “Sportsman’s Paradise.” buy them in advance, but
walk-up or unrestricted fares
are readily available. Ask
about any discounts when
you purchase your ticket.
These discounts are offered
to children, seniors, members
of the military, students, and
travelers with disabilities.
Greyhound will provide
assistance to disabled
travelers, including priority
seating and, in some cases,
a personal-care assistant
may travel for free. Call
the ADA Assist Line for
details (800-752-4841).

ROAD SIGNS
Amtrak train waiting to depart from New Orleans
Most road signs are clear
TRAVELING BY TRAIN children. There are also a and self-explanatory.
number of good-value tour Directional signs are usually
The only long-distance packages, group rates, and green, and tourist information
passenger train line in the promotional discounts. signs are blue.
United States is Amtrak. Long-
distance trains have dining LONG-DISTANCE BUSES SPEED LIMITS
and sleeping cars, and in
general, reservations are Whether you are going Speed limits are set by
needed. All trains arrive and to other parts of the country individual states. There are
depart from New Orleans’ or traveling around Louisiana, heavy fines for going well
Union Passenger Terminal in Greyhound buses (see p215) above the limits, which in
the Central Business offer the Louisiana are as follows:
District. There are cheapest • 55–70mph (89–113km/h)
always taxis outside way to get on highways and Interstates.
the Terminal, and it’s around. The • 20–30 mph (32–48 km/h)
just a short ride away buses are in residential areas.
from the French Refreshment area sign comfortable, • 15 mph (24km/h) in school
Quarter, the Garden clean, and zones.
District, and the major down- modern; there are generally Speed limits vary every few
town hotels. The Crescent on-board toilets, a water miles, so keep a close eye out
train travels every day to New cooler, and TV V screens. for the signs. On an Interstate
Orleans from New York by Bus travel to the larger highway it is best to drive at or
way of Atlanta and interme- cities and popular tourist slightly above the speed limit;
diate points. The City of New destinations in Louisiana is if you are driving more slowly,
Orleanss train departs daily and fairly frequent. Travel to the stay in the right-hand lane. The
goes to Chicago and points left lanes are for passing only
between. The Sunset Limited (overtaking).
travels to and from the West
Coast (Los Angeles) and also
travels to and from Florida
three times a week, with
stops at intermediate points.
The schedules for all of these
trains may vary from season
to season. Amtrak offers dis-
counts for seniors, travelers
with disabilities, students, and Long-distance Greyhound bus
 T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 221

DIRECTORY
TRAIN INFORMATION

Union Passenger
Terminal
Tel (800) 872-7245.
www.amtrak.com

MISSISSIPPI RIVER
FERRIES AND CRUISES

Canal Street Ferry

Algiers ferry crossing the Mississippi River Foot of Canal St.
Tel (504) 376-8100.
DAY TRIPS AND TOURS from the other side is an www.dodt.state.la.us
experience to remember.
Each of your trips outside the The Delta Queen Steamboat Delta Queen Steamboat
metropolitan New Orleans Company offers tours along Company
area will take at least one full the Mississippi River, from Tel (800) 434-1232.
day. If you set aside two or New Orleans up to Baton www.majesticamericaline.com
more days, you will have just Rouge, Natchez, and other
enough time to savor the great cities near the river. Cruises DAY TRIP TOURS
diversity of Louisiana, includ- last from three to 12 days,
ing the bayous, spicy focusing on historic sites Cypress Swamp Tours
food, and lively music in such as plantations and
Tel (504) 581-4501.
Lafa
f yette, Breaux Bridge, old towns. There are also
and other Cajun Coun- some cruises that travel www.westwego
try towns. The rice and out of the Mississippi swampadventures.com
sugar plantations along River and into the
Gray Line
the Mississippi River international waters
can also be discovered, of the Gulf of Mexico; Tel (504) 587-1401.
as can the spectacular these latter are generally www.graylineneworleans.com
wilderness of the casino cruises, which
Atchafalaya Basin. offer dinner, cocktails, New Orleans Tours
and gambling. Tel (504) 212-5925.
MISSISSIPPI RIVER www.bigeasytours.com
FERRIES AND RULES OF THE ROAD
CRUISES Pearl River Eco Tours
Vehicles are driven
V Tel (866) 597-9267.
The Canal Street River cruise on the right-hand side www.laecotour.com
Ferry ride across captain of the road all over the
the Mississippi River United States. A right- Tours by Isabelle
to Algiers Point is an hand turn on a red light is Tel (504) 391-3544.
experience in itself, offering permitted unless a second www.toursbyisabelle.com
excellent views between sign prohibits doing so.
the Mississippi River and Left turns are generally not
New Orleans. The passenger allowed at intersections. The AAA A (Automobile Asso-
boarding gate is located on Drivers and passengers ciation of America) offers
the upper floor of the ferry are required by law to wear maps, emergency roadside
terminal at the foot of Canal seatbelts at all times, and services, and discounts at
Street. Passengers with cars littering is not permitted hotels and restaurants and
and bicycles board on the anywhere along any road, various tourist spots. The
street level of the ferry highway, or Interstate. Association is linked with
terminal. numerous automobile clubs
The trip itself takes about abroad, so it is worth finding
15 minutes. The first ferry out if your home club has
leaves at 6am; the last departs reciprocity with the AAA.
at midnight. Remember that Alternatively, many rental
you may not smoke, drink cars offer roadside service
alcohol, or eat food aboard for an extra charge.
the ferry. Nonetheless, the Be aware that many roads
ride across the river at dawn out in Cajun Country may be
or sunset is one of the best under water at certain times
bargains in New Orleans of the year. Watch for pedes-
(it’s free), and the view of Swamp tour boat moored near trians, cane trucks, oil tankers,
the skyline and riverfront Baton Rouge and loose cattle when driving.
Titles: TG New Orleans (ED352) 146813 2:30
2 W2k-22
1 222 15/04/08 K59 00
Size: 125 x 217 (Bleed5mm) 000 000

222 S T R E E T F I N D E R
304&

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STREET FINDER

1"18035)
T he map references given with
all sights and venues described
in this book refer to the maps
in this section. A complete index of
street names and all the places of
emergency services, churches, and
information centers. The maps
include not only the sight-seeing
areas (which are color-coded), but
the whole of central New Orleans
800%
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shows what other features are (see pp194–203). The map on the
marked on them, including transport back inside cover shows the city’s
terminals, hospitals, post offices, public transportation routes.

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 N E W O R L E A N S S T R E E T F I N D E R 231

Street Finder Index

1st Street 7 E1, 8 A4, 8 C5 Barrett Street 6 C2 Castine Street 2 C1
2nd Street 7 F2, 8 A4, 8 C5 Baudin Street 1 C3, 2 A4 Catina Street 1 B1
3rd Street 7 F2, 8 C5 Bayou Road 2 C2 Cecil Street 1 A3
4th Street 7 F2, 8 B5 Belfast Street 1 A4 Celeste Street 8 B4
5th Street 8 B5 Belfort Street 2 C1 Chalfont Street 2 C1
6th Street 7 F3, 8 C5 Bell Street 2 C2 Chartres Street 4 C3, 5 D2
7th Street 7 F3, 8 C5 Bellaire Drive 1 A2 Cherokee Street 6 A2
8th Street 7 F4, 8 C5 Belle Chasse Street 2 C3 Cherry Street 1 A3
9th Street 8 C5 Bellecastle Street 6 C4 Chestnut Street 6 A3, 7 F4
10th Street 8 C5 Belleville Street 5 F5 Chippewa Street 7 F5, 8 B3
Benefit Street 3 E1 Church Street 4 B4, 8 B1
A Benjamin Street 6 A2 City Park Avenue 1 C1, 2 A1
Abundance Street 3 E1 Bermuda Street 3 F5 Clara Street 2 C5,
Academy Drive 1 B1 Bertrand Street 2 C5 4 A3, 6 C2, 7 E2
Adams Street 1 B5, 6 B1 Birch Street 6 B1 Clare Court 1 B1
Agriculture Street 3 D1 Blanc Street 6 C4 Cleveland Street 1 C2,
Airline Highway 1 A3 Bloomingdale Street 1 C5 2 A3, 4 A2
Alden Place 2 C1 Bolivar Street 2 C5 Clio Street 1 C5,
Aline Street 7 F4 Bordeaux Street 1 A1, 7 D3 2 A5, 4 A4, 7 F1, 8 A2
Alix Street 5 F3 Bounty Street 5 E3 Cohn Street 1 A5, 6 B1
Allard Street 2 A2 Bourbon Street 4 C3, 5 D1 Colapissa Street 1 A4
Allen Street 3 E2 Brainia Street 8 A3 Coliseum Street 6 C4, 8 B2
Alonzo Street 6 B5 Broadway 1 B5, 6 C1 College Street 1 B5, 6 C1
Althea Street 1 A2 Brooklyn Street 5 F5 Columbus Street 3 D2
Alvin Callender Street 6 A3 Bruxelles Street 3 D1 Commerce Street 4 C4, 8 B1
Amelia Street 8 C5 Bungalow Street 2 A2 Common Street 3 D5, 4 B3
Annette Street 3 E2 Burdette Street 1 B5, 6 A2 Conery Street 7 F3
Annunciation Street 4 C5, Burgundy Street 3 D5, Constance Street 4 C5,
6 B5, 7 F5, 8 B2 4 B3, 5 D1 6 B4, 7 F4, 8 B3
Antonine Street 7 E4 Burthe Street 6 A1 Constantinople Street 7 E3
Apple Street 1 A4 Conti Street 1 C2, 2 A3, 4 A1
Apricot Street 1 A4 C Convention Center
Arabella Street 6 C3 Cadiz Street 7 D2 Boulevard 5 D4, 8 C1
Architect Street 3 F4, 5 F1 Calliope Street 1 C4, Court Street 7 D3
Arts Street 3 F2 2 A5, 4 C5, 6 B4, 8 B2 Crete Street 2 C1
Atlanta Street 6 C4 Cambronne Street 1 B4, 6 A1 Cromwell Street 6 C3
Aubry Street 3 D2 Camp Street 4 C3, Crozat Street 3 D5, 4 B2
Audubon Boulevard 6 C1 6 A3, 7 F4, 8 A3 Cucullu Street 6 C2
Audubon Street 1 C5, 6 C1 Camphor Street 1 A3
Austerlitz Street 7 E3 Canal Boulevard 1 C1 D
Aymard Court 1B1 Canal Street 1 C2, D'abadie Street 3 D2
2 A3, 3 D5, 4 B2, 5 D3 Dahlia Street 1 A1
B Carondelet Street 4 B5, Danneel Street 6 C3,
Bamboo Street 1 A2 7 E3, 8 A3 7 D3, 8 A2
Banks Street 1 C3, 2 A3 Carroll Street 4 B3, 8 B1 Dante Street 1 B4, 6 A1
Baronne Street 4 A5, Carrollton Avenue 1 A1, Dart Street 1 C5
7 F3, 8 A2 2 A2, 6 A1 Dauphine Street 4 C2, 5 D1
Barracks Street 2 C3, 5 D1 Castiglione Street 2 C1, 3 D1 David Street 2 A2

USNO_231-235
U
USN
SNO
S N 231-235 Strtfinder+In-TM.in231 23
231
31
31 15
5/5/08 2:40:4
46
4
156 PM
PM
 232 N E W O R L E A N S S T R E E T F I N D E R

Dayna Street 1 A1 Fern Street 1 A5, 6 A1 Hegwidge Street 1 A1

De Armas Street 5 F5 Fig Street 1 B5 Henderson Street 8 C3
De Saix Boulevard 2 C1 Florida Avenue 3 E1 Henry Clay Avenue 6 C2
Decatur Street 3 E4, Fontainebleau Hermosa Street 5 F5
4 C3, 5 E1 Street 1 B5, 7 D1 Hewes Street 7 D1
Delachaise Street 4 B2, 7 E2 Forshay Street 1 B4 Hickory Street 1 A5, 6 B1
Deleon Street 2 C2 Fortin Street 2 C2 Hidalgo Street 1 C1
Delgado Street 2 B2 Foucher Street 7 E3 Hillary Street 6 B1
Dolhonde Street 8 B5 Franklin Avenue 3 F1 Holly Grove Street 1 A3
Delord Street 6 C2 Fredrichs Avenue 2 B1 Homer Street 5 F4
Derbigny Street 8 B5 Frenchman Street 3 E1, 5 E1 Howard Avenue 4 B5, 8 A1
Derby Street 2 C1 Freret Street 2 C5, Huey P. Long Avenue 8 B5
Desoto Street 2 B2 4 A3, 6 A1, 7 F2, 8 A1 Hunter Street 8 C3
D’hemecourt Street 1 C3, 2 A3 Fried Street 8 C5 Hurst Street 6 B3
Diana Street 5 F5 Friedrichs Avenue 1 A2 Hyacinth Street 1 A1
Dixon Street 1 B3 Fulton Street 4 C4, 8 C1
Dominican Street 6 A2 I
Dreyfous Drive 2 A1 G Iberville Street 2 C4,
Dryades Street 7 D3 Gaiennie Street 8 C2 3 D5, 4 B2
Dublin Street 1 B4, 6 A1 Garden Road 1 A2 Ida Street 2 A2
Duels Street 3 D1 Garfield Street 6 A2 Ideal Court 3 F1
Dufossat Street 2 A2, General Diaz 1 C1 Industry Street 3 D1
3 D4, 4 C1, 5 D2, 6 C4 General Ogden Street 1 A4 International Drive 6 B3
General Pershing Street 7 D2
E General Taylor Street 7 D1 J
Eagle Street 1 B3 Gentilly Boulevard 3 D1 Jackson Avenue 7 F2, 8 A3
Earhart Boulevard 1 A4, Geranium Street 1 A2 Jane Place 2 B4
2 A5, 4 B2 Girod Street 4 A4, 8 B1 Jefferson Avenue 6 C4, 7 D2
East Drive 6 A4 Governor Hall Avenue 8 C4 Jefferson Davis Parkway
Eden Street 1 C5 Governor Nicholls Street 1 C5, 2 A3
Edinburgh Street 1 B4 2 C3, 5D 1 Jefferson Drive 1 C5
Eleonore Street 6 B4 Grand Route St. John 2 B2 Jefferson Street 6 C3
Eliza Street 5 F3 Grape Street 1 C5 Jena Street 7 D2
Elysian Fields Avenue 3 E1 Gravier Street 1 C4, Joliet Street 1 B4, 6 A1
Erato Street 1 C5, 2 A4, 3 D5, 4 A2, 8 B1 Joseph Avenue 7 D1
2 A5, 4 A5, 7 F1, 8 A1 Green Street 1 A5, 6 B1 Joseph Street 6 C2
Esplanande Avenue 2 B2, Greenwood Street 1 C1 Josephine Street 7 F1, 8 A3
3 D3, 5 E1 Grenadine Street 1 A2 Julia Street 4 C5, 8 B1
Esther Street 6 C1
Ethel Street 1 A1 H K
Euphrosine Street 1 C4, 2 A5 Hagan Street 2 B2 Kerlerec Street 2 C2, 3 D3
Euterpe Street 8 B3 Hamilton Street 1 A3
Eve Street 1 C5, 2 A5 Hampson Street 6 A2 L
Evelina Street 5 F4 Harding Street 2 B2 Lafayette Street 2 C5,
Everett Street 6 C3 Harmony Street 7 F3 4 B4, 8 B1, 8 C5
Exchange Street 3 D5, 4 C3 Hastings Street 8 B3 Lafitte Avenue 2 C4, 4 B1
Hathaway Place 2 C1 Laharpe Street 3 D2
F Havana Street 3 D1 Lake Avenue 1 A1
Fairway Drive 1 A2 Hawthorne Street 1 B1 Lamarque Street 5 F5
Felicity Street 7 F2, 8 A2 Heaton Street 1 B2 Lapeyrouse Street 2 C2, 3 D2

USNO_231-235
US
U
USN
SNO
S N 231-235 Strtfinder+In-TM.in232 232
2 15/5
5///5/08
5 5/08 2:41:08
8 PM
6 PM
 N E W O R L E A N S S T R E E T F I N D E R 233

2 C5, Melpomene Street 1 C5, N. Solomon Street 2 A2

4 B2, 6 C2, 7 D3, 8 A1 2 A5, 4 A5, 7 F1, 8 A2 N. Tonti Street 2 C3, 3 D3
Last Street 1 B2 Milan Street 7 E2 N. Villere Street 2 C5,
Laurel Street 6 B5, 7 D5, 8 A4 Millaudon Street 6 B1 3 D4, 4 B1
Lavergne Street 3 F5, 8 C5 Milne Street 1 B1 N. White Street 2 C2
Law Street 3 E2 Mistletoe Street 1 A3 Napoleon Avenue 7 D4
Leda Street 2 B2 Monroe Street 1 B3 Narcissus Street 1 A1
Lee Circle 4 B5, 8 B2 Monticello Avenue 1 A3 Nashville Avenue 6 C5
Lelong Drive 2 B1 Morgan Street 3 F5, 5 E3 Nashville Street 7 D1
Leonidas Street 1 B4, 6 C5 Moss Avenue 2 B1 Natchez Street 4 C4, 8 B1
Lepage Street 2 C2 Moss Street 2 B2 Nathalie Street 1 A2
Liberty Street 2 C5 Music Street 3 F1 Navarre Street 1 C1
Lincon Street 3 E2 Mystery Street 2 B2 Nelson Street 1 A4
Live Oak Street 1 A3 Neron Street 1 B5
Livington Street 1 A3 N New Orleans Avenue 4 C1
Livaudais Street 8 A4 N. Anthony Street 1 C2 New Orleans Street 3 D2
London Avenue 3 D2 N. Bernadotte Street 1 C2 Newcomb Boulevard 6 B2
Louisiana Avenue Pkwy 7 E1 N. Broad Avenue 2 B4, Newton Street 5 F4, 8 C5
Louisiana Avenue 7 F5, F4, 2 B3, 3 D1 North Avenue 6 A4
E3, E2 N. Claiborne Avenue 3 F3 Northline Street 1 A2
Louque Street 1 C1 N. Clark Street 2 A3 Notre Dame Street 4 C4, 8 B1
Lowerline Street 1 C4, 6 A3 N. Derbigny Street 3 D3 Nunez Street 5 F4
Loyola Avenue 2 C5, N. Diamond Street 8 B2, 4 C5
4 B3, 8 A1 N. Dorgenois Street 3 D2 O
Loyola Street 6 C3, 7 F2 N. Dupre Street 2 B3 Oak Street 6 A1
Lyons Street 7 D5 N. Front Street 3 E4, 5 D3 Octavia Street 1 C5
N. Galvez Street 2 C4, O’Keefe Street 3 E4, 8 A1
M 3 D2, 4 A1 Oleander Street 1 A4
Magazine Street 4 C5, N. Gayoso Street 2 C1 Olga Street 2 A2
6 C4, 7 D4, 8 A4 N. Johnson Street 3 F2 Olive Street 1 A3
Magnolia Street 2 C5, N. Lopez Street 2 C1 Onzaga Street 2 C2, 3 D2
4 A3, 6 C2, 7 F1 N. Miro Street 2 C3, Orange Street 8 B3
Mandeville Street 3 F1, 5 E1 3 F2, 4 A1 Orchard Street 2 C2
Maple Street 6 A1 N. Murat Street 1 C2, 2 A2 O’Reilly Street 3 D1
Marais Street 3 D4, 4 C1 N. Olympia Street 1 C2 Oretha Castle Haley
Marcia Avenue 1 A1 N. Peters Street 3 E4, Boulevard 4 A5, 8 A2
Marengo Street 7 E2 4 C3, 5 E1, 8 B1 Orleans Avenue 1 C1,
Marguerite Street 1 A1 N. Pierce Street 2 A3 2 B2, 3 D4, 4 C2
Marie Street 2 B2 N. Prieur Street 3 F2 Orpheum Avenue 1 A1
Marigny Street 3 F1, 5 E1 N. Rampart Street 3 E4, 4 C1
Market Street 8 B3 N. Rendon Street 2 B2 P
Marks Street 1 B3 N. Robertson Avenue 3 E3 Painters Street 3 F2
Marlborough Street 7 D3 N. Robertson Street 2 C5, Palm Street 1 B3
Marquette Street 6 B3 3 D4, 4 B1 Palmetto Street 1 A3
Mars Street 1 B4 N. Rochaeblave Street Palmyra Street 1 C2, 2 A3,
Marshall Foch Street 1 C1 2 C3, 3 D2 4 A2
Maryland Drive 1 A2 N. Roman Street 2 C5, Panama Court 1 C5
Maurepas Street 2 C2 3 F2, 4 A1 Papworth Avenue 1 A1
McKenna Street 7 D1 N. St. Patrick Street 1 C2 Paris Avenue 3 D1
McShane Place 3 E4 N. Salcedo Street 2 B3 Park Street 6 C3

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Park View Place 2 B1 Rosiere Street 2 C1 S. St. Patrick Street 1 C3

Patterson Road 3 F5, 5 F3 Rousseau Street 8 A4 S. Telemachus Street
Patton Street 6 B4 Rousselin Street 3 D2 1 C4, 2 A3
Pauger Street 3 E1 Royal Street 3 D5, S. Tonti Street 2 C4, 7 D1
Paul Morphy Street 3 D1 4 C3, 5 F1 S. Villere Street 4 A2
Peace Court 3 F2 S. White Street 2 A5, 7 E1
Peach Street 1 B3 S Sauvage Street 2 C2
Pear Street 1 B3 S. Alexander Street 1 C3, 2 A2 Seguin Street 3 F5, 5 F3
Pearl Street 6 A2 S. Bernadotte Street 1 C2 Serantini Street 3 D1
Pelican Avenue 3 F5, 5 F3 S. Broad Avenue 2 A5 Short Sheet 1 B4, 6 A1
Peniston Street 7 E2 S. Claiborne Avenue 1 A4, Simon Bolivar Street
Penn Street 4 B3, 8 B1 6 C1, 7 E2 4 A5, 8 A2
Perdido Street 2 A4, S. Clark Street 1 C5 Slidell Street 5 F4
4 A3, 8 B1 S. Cortez Street 2 A3 Socrates Street 5 F5
Perrier Street 6 A3, 7 D4 S. Derbigny Street 2 C5, Soniat Street 7 D4
Philip Street 7 F2, 8 A4 4 A2, 7 E1 Sophie Wright Place 8 B3
Picayune Street 4 C3, 8 B1 S. Diamond Street 4 C5, 8 B2 Soraparu Street 8 A4
Pine Street 1 C4 S. Dorgenois Street 2 B4, 7 E1 South Avenue 6 A4
Pink Street 1 A1 S. Dupre Street 2 B3, 7 D1 Spain Street 3 F1
Pitt Street 6 B3, 7 E4 S. Front Street 6 C3, 7 D1 Spruce Street 1 A5, 6 B1
Place de France 5 D4, 8 C1 S. Galvez Street 2 B5, 7 D1 St. Andrew Street 7 F1, 8 A3
Pleasant Street 7 F4 S. Gayoso Street 2 A5, 7 D1 St. Ann Street 2 A2,
Plum Street 6 B1 S. Genois Street 1 C5, 2 A3 3 D4, 4 C1, 5 D2
Poe Street 4 C5, 8 B2 S. Hennessy Street 1 C3, St. Anthony Avenue 3 E1
Poeyfarre Street 4 C5, 8 B2 2 A2, 4 A1 St. Anthony Street 3 E3
Polymnia Street 8 A2 S. Johnson Street 2 B5, St. Bernard Avenue 3 D1
Pontchartrain Boulevard 1 B2 4 A1, 7 E1 St. Charles Avenue 3 F3,
Port Street 3 F4, 5 F1 S. Liberty Street 7 F2 6 B2, 7 F3, 8 A3
Portage Street 2 C1 S. Lopez Street 1 C5, St. Claude Avenue 3 D4, 4 C1
Powder Street 5 F3 2 A5, 7 D1 St. Ferdinand Street
Poydras Street 2 C5, S. Miro Street 2 B5, 7 E1 3 F4, 5 F1
S. Murat Street
4 B3, 8 B1 1 C3 St. James Street 8 B3
Pritchard Street 1 B5 S. Olympia Street 1 C3 St. John Street 2 C2, 3 D2
Prytania Street 4 B5, S. Peters Street 4 C5, 8 C3 St. Joseph Street 4 B5, 8 B1
6 A3, 7 D4, 8 A2 S. Pierce Street 1 C3 St. Louis Street 2 C4,
S. Prieur Street 2 C5, 3 D5, 4 A1
R 4 A1, 7 D2 St. Mary Street 8 B4
Race Street 8 B3 S. Rampart Street 3 D5, St. Peter Street 2 B3,
Religious Street 8 B3 4 B3, 8 A2 3 D5, 4 C2, 5 D2
Republic Street 3 D1 S. Rendon Street 1 C5, 2 A4 St. Philip Street 2 B2,
Rex Place 7 E1 S. Robertson Street 2 C5, 4 C1, 5 D1
Richard Street 8 B3 4 A2, 6 C2, 7 F2 St. Roch Street 3 F1
River Road 8 A5 S. Rocheblave Street 7 E1 St. Vincent Street 2 B1
Robert Street 7 D5 S. Roman Street 7 D2 St. Thomas Street 7 F5, 8 A3
Roger Williams Street 2 C1 S. Salcedo Street 1 C5, Stadium Drive 2 A1
Roosevelt Mall 2 A1 2 A5, 7 D1 State Street Drive 6 C2
Roosevelt Street 2 B2 S. Saratoga Street 4 A5, State Street 6 C1
Rose Street 1 A1, 6 C3 6 C3, 7 F2, 8 A2 Story Street 6 C2, 7 D2
Rosedale Drive 1 C1 S. Scott Street 1 C3, 2 A3 Stroelitz Street 1 B3
Rosemary Place 1 B1 S. Solomon Street 1 C3 Sycamore Street 1 A5

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T Urquart Street 3 E3 Washington Avenue 1 C4,

Taft Place 2 B2 Ursulines Street 2 B2, 7 E1, 8 A4
Tchoupitoulas Street 4 C4, 3 E4, 5 D1, 7 C1 Webster Street 6 B4
6 B5, 7 D5, 8 A4 Weiblen Street 1 C1
Teche Street 5 F4 V West Drive 6 A3
Tensas Street 2 B1 Valence Street 7 D2 West End Boulevard 1 B1
Terpsichore Street 7 F2, 8 B2 Vallette Street 3 F5, 5 F3 W. Stadium 8 A1
Thalia Street 1 C5, Valmont Street 6 C3 Weyer Avenue 8 C5
2 A5, 4 A5, 7 F1, 8 A1 Vendome Place 1 C5 Willow Street 2 C5,
Toledano Street 7 E1 Verna Street 2 B2 4 A2, 6 B1, 7 F2
Toulouse Street 1 C2, Verrett Street 3 F5, 5 F3 Wilshire Street 2 C1
2 A2, 3 D5, 4 C2, 5 D2 Versailles Street 1 C5 Wilson Street 2 B2
Touro Street 3 E1 Vicksburg Street 1 C1 Winthrall Place 2 C1
Trafalgar Street 2 C1 Victory Avenue 2 A1 Wisner Boulevard 2 B1
Treasure Street 3 D1 Vincennes Place 1 C5, 6 C1 Wood Avenue 1 A1
Treme Street 3 D4, 4 C1 Violet Street 1 A1 Woodland Place 1 B1
Tulane Avenue 1 C3, 2 A4 Virginia Court 1 C1
Tunica Street 2 C1 Virginia Street 1 C1 Y
Vision Street 1 C1 York Street 7 D1
U Yupon Street 2 B1
Ulloa Street 1 C3 W
Union Street 4 B3, 8 B1 Walmsley Street 1 B5 Z
Upperline Street 7 D1 Walnut Street 6 A3 Zimple Street 6 A1

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236 G E N E R A L I N D E X

General Index
Page numbers in bold
d type refer to Antiques (cont.) Bars (cont.)
main entries. Pitot House 119 Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop 78
Royal Street 49 Napoleon House 59
A shops 187–9 rock, blues, and other music
Acadian Cultural Center (Eunice) Soniat House 71 venues 194–5
152 Antoine, Père 57 Baton Rouge 146–7
Acadian Cultural Center (Lafayette) Antoine Peychaud’s Pharmacy 49 Louisiana Old State Capitol 146
154 Antrobus, John 61 Louisiana State University 146
Acadian Memorial 156 Architecture 31, 32, 34, 144, 150, 154 Magnolia Mound Plantation 146
Acadian Village 155 Architecture of New Orleans 34–5 Old Governor’s Mansion 146
Acadians 155 Armstrong, Louis 20, 21, 67, 79, 80 Rural Life Museum and Windrush
Acadian Cultural Center Armstrong International airport 214–15 Gardens 147
(Eunice) 152 Armstrong Park 40, 67, 79, 80 State Capitol 147
Acadian Cultural Center Arnaud’s 46, 176, 174 USS Kidd d 147
(Lafayette) 154 Arriving by air 214 Battle of New Orleans 17, 43, 88, 217
Acadian Memorial 156 Arthur Roger Gallery 188, 190 Bayer & Co. 59
Acadian Village 155 Arts District 195 Bayou Oaks Golf Club 119, 203
Cajun culture 33, 156, 168 Ash Wednesday 28, 40 Bayou St. John 35, 73, 77, 83, 115,
history 16 Audubon Aquarium of the Americas 119, 134
Savoy Music Center 152 31, 87, 90–91, 130 Bayougoula 17, 32
Vermilionville 154 Audubon, John James 149, 151, 203, Beads 29, 43, 70, 83, 192
Adler’s 188, 191 217 Beauregard, P. G. T. 71, 134
Admission charges 206 Audubon Park 11, 98, 111, 203 Beauregard-Keyes House 67
Aeromexico Airlines 215 Audubon Zoo 9, 11, 31, 40, 42, 99, Bechet, Sidney 21, 79
African art and crafts 192 112–13, 202 Beckham’s Bookshop 190, 191
African Aunt Sally’s Praline Shop 188, 191 Bed and Breakfast Inc. 161
African culture 32 Austin, Lovie 79 Bed and breakfasts 73, 126, 142, 150,
Afro-American History Museum 145 Automobile Association of America 160
arts 70, 122, 187, 192 221 Beignetss 67, 76, 169, 172
chants 20 A
Avery Island 156, 157, 220 Beluche, René 76
crafts 70, 187, 188 Avis car rental 219
A Bevolo Gas and Electric Lights 189,
folk art 155 191
food 168–9 B Beyond New Orleans 136–57
heritage 40, 80 Bacchanal Fine Wines 196, 198 area map 140–41
slaves 15, 17, 19, 32, 77, 80, 83, Bacchus, Krewe of 28, 29 Baton Rouge 146–7
107, 110, 144, 150 Bamboula 80 Eunice 152
voodoo 83, 193 Bananas Foster 175 hotels 168–9
Afro-American History Museum 145 Bank notes 210 Lafayette 154
Aidan Gill for Men 189, 191 Banking and currency 210 Lower Mississippi Plantations 142–5
Air Canada 206 Automated Teller Machines (A(ATMs) New Iberia and Avery
A Island 156
Air fares 214 210 Opelousas 153
Air travel 214 bank notes 210 Upper Mississippi Plantations
Airboat Swamp Tours 199 banking 210 148–151
Alamo car rental 219 cashing traveler’s checks 210 Big Easy Golf 203
Alexandre Mouton House 154 coins 210 Big Fisherman, The 188, 191
Algiers 221 credit Cards 210 Bigeou, Esther 79
Algiers Courthous 131 Barelli, Joseph 83 Biloxi 15
Ambulances 209 Barker, Danny 83 Bismark Box, The 121
American Airlines 214 Barker, Louise “Blue Lu” 20, 79 Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World 86, 88
American Aquatic Gardens 67, 78 Barrett, Sweet Emma 79 Blanchard, Terence 21
American Express 209, 211 Bars 195–6 Blue Book 22, 81
American Revolution 16, 146, 150 best music venues 200–1 Blue Nile 195, 198
Amistad 98, 110 best jazz venues 200–1 Board of Education 22
Amtrak 215 Bourbon Street 46–7 Bolden, Buddy 21, 200
Amtrak terminal 215 Cajun and zydeco bars 152, 194–5, Bombay Club 195, 198
Amusement centers 202 196–7 Bonaparte, Napoleon 17, 58, 83, 107,
Anderson, Tom 81 directory 197 189, 195
Antiques 189 gay and lesbian bars and clubs 196 Bookstar 187, 189
directory 189 Harrah’s Casino 89 Boomtown Casino 197, 199
Houmas House 142 hotels 161 Boré, Jean Etienne 16, 82
Longue Vue House and Gardens 127 jazz bars 194–5, 200–1 Boswell Sisters 21, 79
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 237

Bottom of the Barrel Antiques 187, 190 Car Chris Owens Club 195, 198
Bottom of the Cup Tea Room 189, 191 car rental 218 Christ Church 104
Bourbon Pub & Parade Disco 196, 199 driving in New Orleans 218 Christmas 43, 91
Bourbon Street 29, 31, 46–7, 51, 59, driving regulations 219 Churches
78, 162, 163, 164, 196, 201 gas 218 Christ Church 104
Brand, William 58 parking 219 Most Holy Name of Jesus Roman
Brass 20, 173 penalties 219 Catholic Church 110
Bread pudding 173 rules of the road 218 Our Lady of Holy Rosary 134
Brennan’s 10, 48, 176 traffic signs 218 Our Lady of Guadalupe Church 81
Brevard-Wisdom-Rice House 98, 107, Car rental agencies 219 Our Lady of Victory Church 70
133 Alamo 219 St. Alphonsus Church 132
Briggs-Staub House 98, 100, 102, 103 Avis 219
A St. Louis Cathedral 53, 56–7
British Common Law 59 Budget 219 St. Martin de Tours Church 156
British Navy 15 Cruise America Motorhome St. Mary’s Assumption Church 133
Brothels 21, 22, 68, 81 Rental 219 St. Patrick’s Church 94
Budget rental 219 Dollar 219 Cigar Factory 189, 191
Bulldog, The 196, 198 Hertz 219 Cigars 188, 189
Bus and coach information 221 Cardinal’s Friendly Chat, The Circle Bar 195, 198
Bus terminal 215 (Vibert) 123 City Park 31, 116–17, 126, 134, 202,
Buses 104, 207, 215, 216, 220 Carnegie Hall 80 218
Bush Antiques 187, 190 Carnival 28–9, 40, 43, 95, 175 Casino 117
Butler, General Benjamin 54, 94, 97 see also Mardi Gras Dueling Oaks 117, 118
Butler Greenwood Plantation 150, 169 Carondelet, Baron 16 New Orleans Botanical Gardens
Bywater Art Market 188, 190 Carousel Bar 196, 198 117, 118
Carroll-Crawford House 98, 103 New Orleans Museum of Art 117,
C Casa Curial 56 120–23
Cabildo 16, 17, 51, 53, 54, 56–7 Cast iron 38–9 Peristyle 116
Cable, George Washington 76 Catalpa Plantation 149, 150 Popp’s Bandstand 116
Cabrini High School 134 Catholicism 33 sports facilities 116
Café Brasil 194, 198 Cat’s Meow 47 Storyland and Carousel 116, 118
Café du Monde 10, 67, 76, 130, 171, Celebration in the Oaks 42 Claiborne, William C. C. 17
169, 174, 176 Celestin, Oscar ¨Papa¨ 20, 79 Claiborne Cottage 98, 102, 104
Café Lafitte in Exile 196, 199 Cemeteries Clark, Daniel 82
Cajun Cypress Grove Cemetery 126 Clothing 186, 190
Acadian Cultural Center Greenwood Cemetery 126 Club 735 194, 197
(Eunice) 152 Lafayette Cemetery 102 Code Noir 32, 80
Acadian Cultural Center Metairie Cemetery 127 Coins 211, 212, 219
(Lafayette) 154 St. Louis Cemetery #1 82 Colonel Short’s Villa 101
Acadian Memorial 156 St. Louis Cemetery #2 83 Columbus Day 43
Acadian Village 155 St. Louis Cemetery #3 126 Commander’s Palace 11, 170
Cajun Country 6, 139, 140, 152, Central Grocery 67, 76, 168, 188, 191 Communications 212
153, 154, 155, 156 Chalmette Battlefield 37, 43, 88, 217 New Orleans time 212
Cajun Culture 33, 156, 168 Charles III 16 newspapers 212
Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Château Country Club Golf 203 postal services 212
Museum 152, 153, 220 Checker Yellow Cabs 219 public telephones 212
Cajun Pride Tours 199 Chickasaw 15 reaching the right number 212
History 16 Children telegrams and faxes 212
Savoy Music Center 152 admission charges 206 telephone charges 212
Vermilionville 154 Audubon Aquarium of the television and radio 212
Cajun Country 6, 139, 140, 152, 153, Americas 90–91 Company of the West 15
154, 155, 156 Audubon Zoo 112–13 Congo Square 20, 67, 79, 80
Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Museum children’s accommodation 161 Connick, Harry, Jr. 21
152, 153, 220 children’s entertainment 202 Contemporary Arts Center
Calinda 80 Louisiana Children’s Museum 85, 97 10, 85, 97, 196
Canal Place 85, 87, 94, 186, 189 Louisiana Swamp Festival 42 Continental Airlines 214
Canal Street ferry 131 medical treatment 209 Conversion chart 207
Canterbury Cathedral 110 Ogden Museum of Southern Art 96 Cooter Brown’s Tavern 196, 199
Capote, Truman 36 restaurant facilities 171 Cornstalk fences 39, 67, 77, 107
Captain Nick’s Wildlife Safaris 203 Storyland and the Carousel 118 Correjolles, François 71
Captain Phil Robichaux’s Saltwater Chitimacha 32 Cottage Plantation 149, 150
Guide Service 203 Choctaw 32, 126, 134 Cotton Centennial Exposition 17
238 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Countdown 43 Diners Club 211

Cowpokes 196, 199 Disabled travelers 207
F
F & M Patio Bar 196, 199
Crafts 70, 97, 154, 187, 189, 192 Dixieland 20, 74, 200
Fabergé, Peter Carl 120
Crawfish 168 Dollar car rental 219
Fair Grounds 41, 42, 115, 126, 197
Creole Donna’s Bar & Grill 195, 198, 200
Famous Door, The 46, 195, 198
architecture 34, 144 Douglas, Kirk 28
Faubourg St. Mary 85
cuisine 170 Downtown Fitness Center 202–3
Faubourg St. John 129, 134–5
food 172–3 Dr. Wagner’s Honey island Swamp
Faulkner, William 37, 55, 187
glossary of Creole dishes 175 Tours 199
Faulkner House Books 190, 191
history 17 Dracula 58
Faulkner’s House 55, 187, 189
ironwork 38–9 Dragon’s Den 195, 198
Federal Express 213
plantations 142–5, 148–53 Driving in New Orleans 218
Federal Townhouse 35
restaurants 170 parking 218
Felton, Nathaniel 71
society 58, 69, 73, 85, 116 penalties 218
Ferries 221
Creole cottage 144 gas 218
Ferry information 221
Creole Queen 217 renting a car 218
Ferry to Algiers and Blaine Kern’s
Crescent City Classic 40 rules of the road 218
Mardi Gras World 86, 88
Crescent City Connection Bridge 22 traffic signs 218
Festival of Bonfires 43
Cruise America Motorhome Rental 219 Dry Dock Café & Bar 130
Cuisine 175, 188, 192 Du Fossat, Chevalier Guy Saunhac 71 Film festivals
beer 174 Dueling Oaks 115 New Orleans Film and Video
cocktails 174 Dufilho, Louis Joseph 59 Festival 42
coffee 174 Fishing 202
flavors of New Orleans 172–3 E Fitness centers 202
glossary 175 Flea Market 67, 69, 70, 188, 191
Easter 33, 40, 123, 147, 150, 207
places to eat 170 Edwards, Edwin 58 Fleur de Paris 189, 191
restaurants 176–85 Eggs Sardou 168 Floats 28
vegetarian food 171 Eiffel Tower Building 133 Florida 15, 146
what to drink 174 Electrical appliances 207 Food and drink
what to eat 172–3, 175 Emergencies 208 beer 174
where to eat 170 England 15, 73, 102 cocktails 174
wine 174 Entergy IMAX X Theater 131 coffee 174
see also Restaurants Entertainment in New Orleans flavors of New Orleans 172–3
Culinary History Tour 199 194–203 glossary 175
Currency 6, 74, 206, 211 bars 195–6 places to eat 170
Custom House/ booking tickets 194 restaurants 176–85
Audubon Insectarium 85, 94 Cajun and zydeco bars 194 vegetarian food 171
Customs 206, 214 children’s entertainment 202 what to drink 174
Customs allowances 206 cruising and sailing where to eat 170
Cypress Grove Cemetery 115, 126 entertainment guides 194 wine 174
fishing 202 Football 42, 43, 95, 146, 194, 196
D gay and lesbian bars and Foreign visitors 206
Dana, Daniel 75 clubs 196 Fountain, Pete 21, 79
Dance halls 19, 20 golf 202 Four Great Days in New Orleans
Dauphine Street Books 187, 189 guides 194, 198 10–11
Day trip tours 221 museums for children 202 France 15, 17, 33, 71, 83, 103, 107, 154
Gray Line 213 New Orleans’ best jazz venues Frankenstein 58
New Orleans Tours 221 200–1 French Colonial Gallery 61
Pearl River Eco-Tours 196, 197, 221 outdoor activities 202 French Colony 15
Tours by Isabelle 221 parks and amusement centers 202 French Market 10, 19, 33, 41, 67, 68,
dba (bar) 195, 198 rock, blues, and other music 70, 76, 176, 174, 188, 189
DePouilly, Jacques Nicholas venues 194 French Opera House 47
Bussière 83 sports and major arenas 197 French Quarter 10, 134
Degas, Edgar 36, 61, 101, 107, 122, theater, dance, and classical music French Quarter Festival 40
126, 167 196 French Revolution 156
Degas House 115, 126 tickets 194 Freret, James 73, 103
Delta Air Lines 214 tours 198 Friends of the Cabildo 198, 199
Depression 22, 96, Esplanade A Avenue 34, 67, 73, 107, Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub 47, 195,
Destrehan Plantation 143, 144, 202 115, 217 198, 201
Deutsches Haus 42 Eunice 139, 141, 152, 168, 220 Funerals 18
DHL 213 Evangeline 156 Funky Monkey 189, 191
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 239

Greek Revival Style (cont.) History (cont.)

G Claiborne Cottage 102 French colony 15
Gaines, Myra Clarke 82
Esplanade Avenue
A 73 history of Mardi Gras 28–9
Galatoire’s 11
Gallier Hall 95 history of New Orleans jazz 20–23
Gallatin Street 68
Greenwood Plantation 150 Louisiana Purchase and the
Gallier, James, Jr. 72
Houmas House Plantation 145 Battle of New Orleans 17
Gallier, James, Sr. 73, 94, 95, 100,
Latrobe House 72 Spanish city 16
103, 126
Old Governor’s Mansion 146 steamboats, cotton and sugar 16
Gallier Hall 72, 85, 95
Old US Mint 74–5 timeline 15–29
Gallier House Museum 67, 68, 72, 95
Payne-Strachan House 107 History of Mardi Gras 28–9
Galvez, Bernardo de 16
Toby’s Corner 106 History of New Orleans jazz 20–23
Gambitt 213
Women’s Guild Opera House 106 Holiday, Billie 79
Garden District and Uptown 98–113
Green, Tony 75 Holidays, public 43
area map 98–9
Greenwood Plantation 148, 150 Hope, Bob 28
Audubon Zoo 112–13
Greyhound bus line 215 Horse racing 42, 196
hotels 166–7
Gris-gris 77, 193 Hospitals 209, 210
restaurants 180–82
Gualdi, Pietro 82 Hostelling International, American
St. Charles AAvenue Streetcar 11,
Guided tours Youth Hostels 161
104–5
Airboat Tours 198–9 Hotels 160–9
Street-by-Street map 100–1
Cajun Pride Tours 198–9 bed and breakfast 160
Walk 129, 132–3 Friends of the Cabildo 198–9 beyond New Orleans 168–9
Garden District Book Shop 190, 191 Haunted History Tours 198–9 disabled travelers 161
Gas lamps 16, 188 New Orleans Tours Inc. 198–9 facilities 161
Gauche, John 73 Pearl River Eco-Tours 196, 198–9, Garden District 166–7
Gauche Villa 67, 73 221 hidden extras 160
Gay and lesbian Save our Cemeteries 198–9 hotel prices 160
Bourbon Street 46 Three Guided Walks 129–35 how to book 160
gay and lesbian bars and clubs Tours by Isabelle 198–9 Lower French Quarter 163–4
196, 197 Guidelines on safety 208 Mid-City and Suburbs 167–8
Lesbian and Gay Pride Festival 42 Guillermard, Gilberto 55 special rates 161
Gayarré, Charles 82 Gulf Coast 15 traveling with children 161
Germans 15, 32, 168 Gumbo 168 Upper French Quarter 162–3
Germany 17, 33, 73 Warehouse and Central Business
Getting Around New Orleans 216 H Districts 164–5
buses 216 Haiti 17, 32, 83 where to look 160
riverboats 217 Haitian Revolution 32 youth and budget accommodation
streetcars 216 Halloween 42 161
taxis 217 Handicapped (Lift Handicapped Hotels.Com 161
walking 217 Service) 219 Houma 32, 145
Getting to New Orleans 214 Hand-rolled cigars 192 Houmas House Plantation 142, 145
air fares 214 Hardin, Lil 79 House of Blues 194, 198, 200
Armstrong International Airport Harold Clarke Couturier 189, 191 House of Broel 133
facilities 214 Harrah’s Casino 85, 89, 197, 199 Hové Parfumeur 189, 191
arriving by air 214 Hats 190–91 Howard, Henry 55, 73, 101, 106, 145
getting to and from the airport 215 Haughery, Margaret 132 Howlin’ Wolf 195, 198
getting to New Orleans by bus 215 Hearn, Lafcadio 46 Humbrecht, Erasme 57
getting to New Orleans by train 215 Hennesy, David C. 127 Hurricane Katrina 12, 23, 24–7, 51, 67,
Girod, Nicholas 59 Hermann-Grima Historic House 51, 58 79, 80, 95, 99, 115, 118, 119, 126
Glossary of New Orleans food 175 Hermann, Samuel 58
Go 4th on the River 41 Hernandez, Marcelino 55 I
Golden Lantern 196, 199 Hertz car rental 219 Idea Factory 188, 191
Golf 202 Heston, Charlton 28 Independence Day 41, 43
Good Friday 16 Higgins boats 22, 97 Indians 15, 76, 122, 145
Good Friday Fire (1808) 16, 34, 56 Hirt, Al 79 Immigrants 33, 168
Good Friends Bar 196, 199 Historic New Orleans Collection 11, Insurance
Gospel 40, 59, 80 48, 51, 60–61 car insurance 211
Gray Line Tours 221 Historic New Orleans Walking travel insurance 209
Great French Market Tomato Tours 198, 199 Ireland 17, 33, 94
Festival 41 History 14–29 Irish
Greek Festival 40 20th-Century New Orleans 22 culture 32–3
Greek Revival Style 34 Civil War and Reconstruction 18 history 17
240 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Irish (cont.) Longue Vue House and Gardens

Irish Channel 33, 40, 107
K 115, 127
Kaboom Books 190, 191
St. Patrick’s Church 94 Lost or stolen credit cards and checks
Katy Beh Contemporary Jewelry 188,
St. Patrick’s Day Parade 40 211
191
Irish Channel 33, 40, 107 Lost Property 208
Kenner Planetarium 203
Ironwork 38–9 Louis XIV 15
Keppard, Freddie 21, 79
Isleños 32 Louise S. McGehee School 98, 103
Kerry Irish Pub 196, 199
Louisiana Children’s Museum 85, 97,
Keyes, Frances Parkinson 71
J Keil’s Antiques 187, 190
202
Jack, Papa 20 Louisiana Music Factory
King, Martin Luther 80
Jackson, Andrew 17, 37, 54 190, 191, 195, 198
King cake 28
Jackson, Mahalia 37, 79 Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra
Krewes 23, 28, 88
Jackson Square 10, 16, 43, 51, 54–5, 197, 199
88, 130, 174, 187, 203, 207 Louisiana Purchase 17, 33, 67, 148
Jambalaya 172–3, 175
L Louisiana State Bank 48
La Branche Buildings 49
Japanese Suit of Armorr 121 Louisiana State University 139, 146, 198
La Rocca, Nick 20
Jax Brewery 11, 130, 186, 189 Louisiana Superdome 25, 27, 43, 85,
La Salpetrière 15 95, 197
Jazz
Labor Day 43 Louisiana Supreme Court Building
Armstrong, Louis 20, 21, 67, 75,
Laclotte, Hyacinthe 59 51, 58
79, 80
Lafayette 139, 154 Louisiana Swamp Festival 42
Boswell Sisters 21
Lafayette Cemetery 11, 82, 98, 102 Louisiana Tax Free Shopping Refund
Bourbon Street 46–7
Celestin, Oscar ¨Papa¨ 20, 79 Lafitte, Jean 17, 34, 51, 59 Center 186, 189
Congo Square 20, 67, 79, 80 Lafitte, Pierre 55, 78 Louisiana Transit 215
Fountain, Pete 21, 79 Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop 196, 199 Lovie, Austin 79
history of New Orleans jazz Lafitte’s in Exile 78 Lower French Quarter, Marigny,
20–23 Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop 34, 67, 78, 197 and Treme 66–83
Jack, Papa 20 Lakeside Shopping Center 186, 190 area map 67
Jazz Fest 41 Lakewood Country Club 202, 203 hotels 163–4
La Rocca, Nick 20 Lalaurie, Delphine 72 Old US Mint 74–5
Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Lalaurie, Leonard Louis Nicholas 72 restaurants 177–9
Performing Arts 80 Lalaurie House 67, 72 Street-by-Street map 68–9
New Orleans’ best jazz venues Language 140, 154, 155, 220 Lower Mississippi Plantations 142–5
200–1 Latrobe, Benjamin Henry 72, 73, 82 Loyola University 11, 98, 110, 198
Old US Mint, Jazz Museum 74–5 Latrobe House 67 Lucullus Gallery 187, 190
radio 213 Laura Plantation 143, 144
Oliver, King 20, 21, 79 Laura’s Candies 188, 191 M
Ory, Kid 20 Laveau, Marie 80, 82, 83 Madame John’s Legacy 67, 76
riverboat jazz bands 21 Law, John 15 Madewood Plantation 142, 145
Storyville 81 Law enforcement 208 Madisonville Wooden Boat Festival 42
Storyville District 19, 21, 22, 46, 79, Le Bon Temps Roule 195, 198 Maestri, Robert 22
81, 196, 197 Le Carpentier, Joseph 71 Magnolia Mound Plantation 146, 150
street musicians 53, 54 Le Chat Noir 197, 199 Mahalia Jackson Theater of the
women in jazz 79 Le Moyne, Jean Baptiste 15 Performing Arts 67, 79, 80, 197
Jazz AAwareness Month 42 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré Majestic America Line 221
Jazz Fest 41 11, 51, 52, 55, 197, 199 Mallard, Prudence 32
Jean Lafitte National Historical Park Lee, General Robert E. 18, 96, 104 Malus, William 59
51, 59, 198, 199 Lee Circle 85, 96 Manheim Galleries 187, 189
Jefferson Davis 133 LeMieux Galleries 187, 190 Maple Leaf Bar 197, 200
Jefferson Transit 215 Lesbian and Gay Pride Festival 42 Maple Street Bookshop 190, 191
Jewelry 186, 188, 189 Lewis, George 74 Maps
Jewish Liberty Bell Cabs 219 Audubon Zoo 112–13
culture 32 Liberty Theater 153 Baton Rouge 147
Touro Synagogue 105 Libraries 55, 187 beyond New Orleans 140–41
Jim Russell’s Rare Records Lift Handicapped Service 219 Bourbon Street 46–7
190, 191 Loa at International House 196, 199 Central Business District 86–7
John James Audubon riverboat 11 Loft 523 196, 197 City Park 116–17
John Paul II, Pope 23 Lion’s Den 194, 197 Garden District 100–1
John Wehner’s Famous Door 46 Long-distance coaches 220 Garden District and Uptown
Jonathan Ferrara Gallery 188, 190 Longfellow Evangeline State 98–9
Julia Street 10, 187 Commemorative Area 156 Lower French Quarter 67, 68–9
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 241

Maps (cont.) Mimi 189, 191 Museums (cont.)

Lower Mississippi Plantations 142–5 Mississippi Bridge 22 New Orleans Museum of Art 115,
Mid-City 115 Mississippi River 32, 40, 129, 130–31, 118, 120–3, 194
New Orleans and suburbs 12–13 140–41, 216, 217, 221 New Orleans Pharmacy Museum 59
New Orleans famous people 36–7 Mississippi Riverfront 129, 130–31 Newcomb Art Gallery 98, 110
New Orleans’ best jazz venues Mitchell, Edna 79 Nottoway Plantation 142, 145
200–1 Mobile 16 Oak Alley Plantation 143, 144
Royal Street 48–9 Molly’s at the Market 196, 199 Oakley House Plantation 149, 151
St. Charles AAvenue Streetcar 105 Monument to the Immigrantt 130, 131 Ogden Museum of Southern
Street Finder 222–35 Moonwalk 67, 77, 130 Art 10, 85, 96
Upper French Quarter 61, 52–3 Morial, Ernest “Dutch” 23, 82 Old State Capitol 147
Upper Mississippi Plantations 148–9 Morial, Marc 23, 82 Opelousas Museum of Art 153
Warehouse and Central Business Morphy, Paul 71, 82 Presbytère 29, 51, 53, 54, 55, 56–7
Districts 85 Morrison, de Lesseps Story “Chep” 22 Rip Van Winkle House and
Marable, Fate 21 Morton, “Jelly Roll” 21, 81 Gardens 157
Mardi Gras Most Holy name of Jesus Roman Rural Life Museum 139, 147
Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World Catholic Church 110 San Francisco Plantation 143, 144
86, 88 M. S. Rau Gallery 187, 190 Shadows on the Teche 156–7
Bourbon Street 46–7 Muffuletta 33, 59, 171, 172–3, 175, University Art Museum 154
Cajun Mardi Gras 152, 154 188 USS Kidd d 139, 147
floats 28–9, 88 Multicultural New Orleans 32–3 Vermilionville 154
history 18, 28–9 Museé Conti Wax Museum 11, 51, 58 Music
Mardi Gras Museum 57 Museums African music 32
memorabilia 192 1850 House 51, 53, 54 Armstrong Park 79
Royal Street 48-9 Acadian Memorial 156 Bourbon Street 46–7
souvenirs 188, 192 Acadian Village 155 Cajun Music 139, 152, 155, 195
Marigny, Bernard de 82 Alexandre Mouton House 154 Cajun Music Hall of Fame &
Marigny 17, 42, 67, 73, 78, 82, 99, Amistad 98, 110 Museum 152
102, 160, 174 Beauregard–Keyes House 67 classical music 196
Markets Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World history of New Orleans jazz 20–23
Flea Market 67, 68, 70, 188, 192 86, 88 Jazz Fest 41
French Market 19, 33, 41, 67, Butler Greenwood Plantation 150 Liberty Theater 152
68, 70, 76, 176, 188 Cabildo 16, 17, 51, 53, 54, 56–7, 196 Mahalia Jackson Theater of the
Martin Luther King Day 43 Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Performing Arts 80
MasterCard 209, 211 Museum 152, 153, 220 music stores 191
Maurice “Moon” Landrieu 130 Contemporary Arts Center 85, 97, New Orleans’ Best Jazz Venues
McIlhenny Company Tabasco Factory 196, 202 200–1
and Jungle Gardens 157 Cottage Plantation 149, 150 Old US Mint, Jazz Museum 74–5
Mechanics Hall Riot 17 Custom House/ Orpheum Theater 95
Medical treatment 208 Audubon Insectarium 85, 94 radio 213
Melanesian Ancestor Destrehan Plantation 142, 144, 202 Reggae Riddums Festival 41
( belan people) 121
(A Greenwood Plantation 150 riverboat jazz bands 21
Melange 195, 198 Hermann-Grima Historic House 51, rock, blues, and other music
Memorial Day 43 58 venues 194–5
Merieult House 60 Historic New Orleans Collection Savoy Music Center 152
Metairie 115 48, 51, 60–61 Storyville 81
Metairie Cemetery 115, 127 Houmas House Plantation 142, street musicians 53, 54
Metro Three 189, 191 145, 202 women in jazz 79
Mexico 10, 15, 90, 106, 119, 214, 221 Laura Plantation 144, 147 zydeco music 139, 152, 155, 195
Meyer the Hatter 190, 191 Longue Vue House and Gardens Musson-Bell House 98, 107
Michalopoulos 187, 190 115, 127 Myra Clark Gaines 82
Mid-City 114–27 Louisiana Children’s Museum 85, 97 Myrtles Plantation 148, 151
area map 115 Madame John’s Legacy 67, 76
hotels 167–8 Magnolia Mound Plantation 145 N
New Orleans Museum of Art 120–23 Mardi Gras Museum (Presbytère) Napoleon House 10, 51, 59, 196, 199
restaurants 183–4 51, 56–7 Napoleonic Code 59
Street-by-Street map 116–17 Museé Conti Wax Museum 51, 58 Napoleon’s Itch 196, 199
Mignon Faget 188, 191 Museums for children 202 NASAA 22, 126
Miles, Lizzie 79 Myrtles Plantation 148, 151 Natchez Indians 15
Mills, Clark 54 National World War II Museum National World War II Museum
Milneburg 21 85, 97 85, 97
242 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Natchez seee Steamboat Natchez Okelousa Indians 32 Payne-Strachan House 98, 107, 133
Native American Sculptures Oktoberfest 42 Pearl River Eco-Tours 198, 221
Representing a Familyy 123 Old Absinthe House 46 Pelanne brothers 54
Native Americans 32, 68, 71, 121, 123, Old Algiers Point 131 Pelican Point Club 203
153 Old Governor’s Mansion 146 Penalties 218
Natural hazards 208 Old State Capitol 147 Pensacola 16
New Deal 22 Old Ursuline Convent 34, 61, 67, 68, Père Antoine’s Alley 51, 52, 55
New Iberia 139, 156 68–9 Perlis 189, 191
New Orleans Airport Shuttle 215 Old US Mint 74–5 Personal security and health
New Orleans Arena 199 Olive salad 76, 172–3, 175 emergencies 208
New Orleans Ballet Association 197, Oliver, King 20, 21, 79 guidelines on safety 208
199 Omni Royal Orleans 52, 162 law enforcement 208
New Orleans’ bed and breakfast On the Other Hand 189, 191 lost property 208
accommodation 161 O’Neill, Eugene 55 medical treatment 208
New Orleans’ best jazz venues One-Eyed Jack’s 195, 198 natural hazards 208
200–1 Opelousas 139, 152, 153, 173 staying safe in New Orleans 208
New Orleans Boat & Sportfishing Opelousas Museum of Art 153 travel insurance 208
Show 43 O’Reilly, Alexander 16 Walgreens Drugstore 209
New Orleans Botanical Gardens Orpheum Theater 85, 95, 194, 197 Petrol 218
115, 117, 118 Ory, “Kid” 20 Peychaud, Antoine 49
New Orleans Contemporary Arts Our Lady of Guadalupe Church Piazza, Willie 81
Center 10, 197, 199 67, 81 Pierce, Billie 79
New Orleans Culinary Institute 133 Our Lady of Holy Rosary 134 Pirate’s Alley 51, 52, 55
New Orleans Fair Grounds Horse Our Lady of Victory Church 70 Pitot House 115, 119, 134
Racing Season 42 Outdoor activities 202 Pitot, James 134
New Orleans’ famous people 36–7 Oysters 168 Place des Nègres 80
New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Oz 196, 199 Plauché, General Jean Baptiste 83
Festival (Jazz Fest) 40, 134 Plessy, Homer Adolph 82
New Orleans Jazz National Historical P Plessy vs Ferguson 17
Park 70, 199 Palm Court Jazz Café 201 Po’boy 168
New Orleans Metropolitan Convention Pan-American Stadium 116 Poetry readings 200
and Visitors’ Bureau 133, 198 Parades Polo Lounge 196, 199
New Orleans Museum of Art 115, Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras World 88 Pompano en Papilote 168
118, 120–23, 202 jazz parades 20 Pontalba, Baroness Micaela 52, 54, 55
New Orleans Opera Association 196, Louisiana Shrimp and Petroleum Pontalba, Celestin 55
199 Festival 42 Pontalba Buildings 38, 51, 53, 55
New Orleans Pharmacy Museum Mardi Gras 28–9 Pontalba Buildings (1850 House) 51,
51, 59 parade floats 28, 88 53, 54
New Orleans Saints 27, 197 St. Patrick’s Day Parade 40 Pontchartrain Expressway 22
New Orleans School of Glassworks Spring Fiesta 40 Port of Missing Men 70
188, 190 Parasol’s Bar 196, 199 Portrait of a Young Girll (Miró) 122
New Orleans Silversmiths 188, 191 Paris’s Père Lachaise Cemetery 83 Post Office 213
New Orleans Tours 198–9, 221 Parking 218 Postal services 212
New Orleans Wine & Food Parking meters 219 Practical information 206
Experience 41 Parks conversion chart 207
Newcomb Art Gallery 98, 110 Armstrong Park 40, 67, 79, 80 customs allowances 206
Newport Jazz Festival 80 Audubon Park 98, 111, 203 disabled travelers 207
Newspapers 212 Audubon Zoo 9, 31, 40, 42, 99, electrical appliances 207
NFL 22, 42, 95, 196 112–13, 202 etiquette 206
Nicholas, Jacques 83 City Park 31, 41, 42, 114, 116–17, foreign visitors 206
Nicole Miller Boutique 187, 189 119, 121, 126, 202, 218 pharmacies 209
Nixon, Oscar 55 Jean Lafitte National Historical Park senior citizens 207
Nottoway Plantation 142, 145 51, 59 tourist information 206
New Orleans Jazz National Pralines 168
O Historical Park 70 Presbytère 10, 29, 51, 53, 54, 56–7
Oak Alley Plantation 143, 144 Washington Square Park 42, 67, 78 Preservation Hall 47, 197, 201
Oak Harbor Golf Club 203 Woldenberg Riverfront Park 42, 88 President’s Day 43
Oakley House Plantation 149, 151 Parks and amusement centers 202 Protestants 102
Octavia Books 190, 191 Pascal, Jean 76 Prudhomme, Paul 33, 166, 173, 176
Ogden Museum of Southern Art Pat O’Brien’s 47, 196, 199 Public holidays 43
85, 96 Pauger, Adrien de 15, 51 Public telephones 212
 G E N E R A L I N D E X 243

Soto, Hernando de 15
R S Southern Decadence 41
Razoo 47 St. Alphonsus Church 132
Southern Repertory Theater 11, 197,
Reconstruction 19, 55, 111, 150, St. Anthony’s Mortuary Chapel 81
199
154 St. Charles AAvenue Streetcar 10, 11,
Southwest Airlines 215
Red beans and rice 168 98, 104–5, 129
Spain 15, 16, 32
Renting a car 220 St. Expedite 81
Spanish Colonial 38, 60
Republic 195, 198 St. Helena Island 83
Spanish Plaza 85, 88, 131
Restaurants St. Joseph’s Day 40
Spanish power 16
beyond New Orleans 184 St. Louis Cathedral 51, 54, 56–7, 131
Spicer, Susan 176
children 171 St. Louis Cemetery # 1 82
Sports Facilities in City Park 115,
dining on a budget 170 St. Louis Cemetery # 2 83
116, 119
dress code 171 St. Louis Cemetery # 3 126, 134, 135
Spotted Cat Bar 195, 198
flavors of New Orleans 172–3 St. Louis Hotel 78
Spring Fiesta 40
Garden District and Uptown 180 St. Martin de Tours Church 156
State Capitol 139, 147
glossary 175 St. Martinville 156
Statues
hours and prices 170 St. Mary’s Assumption Church 133
angel statue at Greenwood
Lower French Quarter 177–9 St. Patrick’s Church 85, 94
Cemetery 115
Mid-City 183 St. Patrick’s Day Parade 40 angel statue at Lafayette Cemetery
New Orleans Food and Wine Saints Football 42, 95 102
Experience 41 Salle, Robert de la 15 Audubon statue 111
other places to eat 170 Saloons 19, 81, 89 Beauregard statue 118
reservations 171 San Francisco Plantation 143, 144 bronze statue in Audubon Park 111
smoking 171 Santa’s Quarters 189, 191 Cupid statue in Le Petit Théâtre 51
taxes and tipping 171 Satchmo SummerFest 41 Evangeline statue 156
Upper French Quarter 176 Saturn rocket booster 22 Jackson statue 53, 54
vegetarian food 171 Save Our Cemeteries 198, 199 Jesus statue 100
Warehouse and Central Business Savoy Music Center 152, 153 John McDonogh statue 104
Districts 176 Sazerac Bar 10, 196, 197, 201 Louis Armstrong statue 67, 79, 80
what to drink 174 Scriptura 189, 191 Robert E. Lee statue 71, 104
wheelchair access 171 Sedella, Antonio de 55 The Flute Playerr 118
where to eat 166 Saenger Theater 198, 199 tree-shaped statue at St Louis
Rex King 29 Senior citizens 207 Cemetery # 283
Rex, Krewe of 28, 29 Seven Years’ War 15, 16 Women in Huipill 118
Rhino Contemporary Craft Co. 188, Shadows on the Teche 156–7 Staying safe in New Orleans 208
191 Shopping 186–93 Steamboat Natchezz 10, 64–5, 129,
Rice, Anne 36, 100, 102, 107, 133, art and antiques 187–8, 189 130, 203
153, 187 books 191 Steamboats 18, 43, 64–5, 89, 127
Rip Van Winkle House 157 crafts 188, 189 Steamboats, Cotton and Sugar 16
Ripley’s Believe It Or Not 11 fashion 190, 191 Stella Jones Gallery 188, 190
RiteAid 209 food 188, 189 Steve Martin Studio 188, 190
River cruises 221 gifts and specialty stores 189, 190, Stone & Press Gallery 187, 190
Riverbend 11, 98, 111, 216 191 Story, Alderman Sidney 17
Riverboats 217 hats 190–91 Storyland and Carousel 115, 118, 202
Riverfront 41, 55, 58, 70, 85, 86, 88, how to pay 186 Storyville District 19, 21, 22, 46, 79, 81
203, 207, 216 jewelry 188, 189 Streetcars 216
Riverwalk Marketplace 130, 186, 190 malls and shopping centers 186 Strickland, William 74
Road signs 220 music 191 Style Lab 189, 191
Robinson House 98, 101, 103 sales tax reimbursement 186 Sugar Bowl 43
Rock ‘n’ Bowl 197, 200 what to buy 192–3 Swiss 15
Rodrigue Studio 187, 190 when to shop 186 Swizzle Stick Bar 196, 199
Rouse’s Market 188, 191 Shotgun houses 35, 131
Royal Mail Service 186, 189 Shrimp remoulade 168 T
Royal Orleans Hotel 78 Shrine of Blessed Father Seelos 133 Tabasco sauce 139, 157
Royal Street 11, 48–9, 107, 162, 163, Simon of New Orleans 187, 190 Tax-free shopping 186, 207
164, 219 Slaves 15, 17, 19, 32, 77, 82, 83, 107, Taxis 217
Rubenstein’s 189, 191 110, 144, 150 Checker Yellow Cabs 219
Rules of the road 218, 221 Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro 195, 198, 201 Liberty Bell Cabs 219
Rumors 48, 189, 191 Soft shell blue crab 168 United Cabs 219
Rural Life Museum and Windrush Soldier’s Payy 37, 55 Telegrams and faxes 212
Gardens 139, 147 Soniat House 67, 71, 160, 164 Telephone charges 212
244 G E N E R A L I N D E X

Telephones 212 Travel information (cont.)

Television and radio 212 taxis 217
W
Walgreens Drugstore 209
Tennesse Williams New Orleans tourist information 206
Warehouse and Central Business
Literary Festival and Writers’ train 215
Districts 84–97
Conference 40 travel insurance 208
Aquarium of the Americas 90–91
Tennis 116, 119, 161, 203 Traveler’s checks 210
area map 85
Thanksgiving Day 43 Traveling by bus 216
hotels 164–5
Thanksgiving Day Race 42 Traveling outside New Orleans 220
restaurants 176–7
Thirty Years’ War 32 day trip tours 221
Street by Street map 86–7
Thomas, Blanche 79 ferries 221
Riverwalk Marketplace 85, 86
Thomas Cook 211 long-distance coaches 220
Washington Artillery Park &
Tickets Mississippi River cruises 221
Moonwalk 67, 77, 130
air tickets 214 renting a car 220
Washington Square Park
booking tickets 194 road signs 220
42, 67, 78
bus tickets 216 rules of the road 221
Welfare 22
Mardi Gras 40 train services from New Orleans 220
West Bank 22, 88
streetcar tickets 216 Treasure Chest 197, 199
West Indies 15, 32
theater, dance, and classical music Treaty of Paris 16
Western Union 211
196 Tulane University 11, 98, 110
Whiskey Blue 196, 199
Tipitina’s 194, 198 Tunica 32
White Linen Night 41
Tipping Tuxedo Brass Band 18
Wilde, Oscar 55
hotels 161 Twelfth Night 28
Wilkinson, James 15
restaurants 171 Williams, General Kemper 60
Toby’s Corner 98, 106 U Williams, Tennessee 52
Tourist information 206 Ulloa, don Antonio de 16 Williams Residence 60
Touro Synagogue 104 Union 17, 18, 19, 72, 88, 94, 97, 107, Winky’s 189, 191
Tours 198 145, 146, 157, 211, 221 Woldenberg Riverfront Park 42, 88,
Airboat Tours 198, 199 Union Passenger Terminal 215, 221 130, 203
Cajun Encounters Swamp 198, 199 United Airlines 214 Woman in an Armchairr (Picasso) 120
Friends of the Cabildo 198, 199 United Cabs 219 Women’s Guild Opera House 101,
Haunted History Tours 198, 199 United Fruit Company 33 106
New Orleans Original Cocktail United States Postal Service 213 Wood & Perot company 77
Tour 198, 199 University Art Museum 154 Wooden Box 186, 189
New Orleans Tours Inc. 198, 199 Upper French Quarter 50–65 World Trade Center 89
Pearl River Eco-Tours 198, 199, 221 area map 51 World War I 19, 22, 33
Save our Cemeteries 198, 199 Historic New Orleans Collection World War II 22, 147
Tours by Isabelle 198, 199 60–61 Wrought iron 38–9
TPC Golf Course 198, 199 hotels 162–3
Traffic signs 218 restaurants 176–7 Y
Trains 214 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo, and Yoruba Mounted Warrior
getting to New Orleans by train Presbytère 56–7 (Melanesian people) 22
215 Steamboat Natchez 64–5 You, Dominque 17, 83
train information 221 Street-by-Street map 52–3 Yvonne LaFleur 189, 191
train services in New Orleans 220 Upper Mississippi Plantations
train terminal 215 140–53 Z
Trashy Diva 189, 191 Uptown 17, 55, 86, 99, 160, 170, Zemurray, Samuel 33
Travel information 180–2, 187, 195, 216 Zephyr Stadium 197, 199
air 214 USS Kiddd 139, 147 Zoo-to-Do 41
bus 215 Zydeco 33, 139, 152, 155, 188, 195,
car 220 V 196, 197
conversion chart 207 Vampire Chronicles 36, 107
customs allowances 206 Vaughn’s Lounge 196, 199
day trip tours 221 Vermilionville 154
disabled travelers 207 Veterans’ Day 43
electrical appliances 207 Victorian Gallery 60
etiquette 206 Vieux Carré 15, 22, 51, 52
ferries 221 Vieux Carré Vinyl 190, 191
foreign visitors 206 Visa 211
riverboats 217 Voodoo 17, 32, 67, 82, 83, 119, 193,
senior citizens 207 196
streetcars 216 Voodoo accoutrements 192
 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 245

Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Works of art have been reproduced with
W
many people whose help and assistance permission of the following copyright
contributed to the preparation of this book. holders: Portrait of a Young Girl 1935, (c)
ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2006 -
Main Contributor 122b; W
Woman in an Armchair, 1960 (c)
Marilyn W Wood is an American travel writer Succession Picasso/DACS 2006 - 120cla.
who has written guidebooks to a number
of cities, including New York, Toronto, The Publisher would like to thank the
Boston and London. following individuals, companies and
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Additional Contributors to reproduce their photographs:
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 P H R A S E B O O K 247

Phrase Book
South Louisiana has a rich heritage of American words have all been mixed
blending its disparate cultures, and together into a New Orleans patois. The
New Orleans is no exception. French, following is a list of the most frequently
Spanish, Cajun French, Creole French, used words and phrases, plus a guide
English, German, and even some Native to correct pronunciation.

Words and Phrases

armoire (arm-wah) cupboard or fais-do-do (fay-doh-doh) literally “go
wardrobe to sleep”; Cajun term for a
community dance where
arpent measure of 180 ft (55 m)
parents bring their children,
au dit (oh-dee) ditto or “the same” who often fall asleep to the
aw-right accepted greeting or music
acclamation on meeting fourche the fork of a creek
friends or acquaintances (as in Bayou Lafourche)
banquette (ban-ket) sidewalk galleryy balcony or porch
baptiserr (bap-tee-zay) to give a name gris-gris (gree-gree) voodoo charm
to something
Guignolée New Year’s Eve celebration
bateau boat
jour de I’An New Year’s Day
bayou (bay-you or bye’o) a waterway
or creek krewe private club that sponsors a
parade and a ball during
boeuf (berf) cow, meat, steak
Mardi Gras
Boureé Cajun card game
lagniappe (lan-yap) “something extra”
bousillage (boor-sill-arge) mixture of at no cost
Spanish moss and mud,
levee embankment for flood
used to insulate walls
control or riverside landing
bruléé (bru-lay) burned, toasted
neutral ground the median of a large avenue
(as in café brulé)
é
or street (the St. Charles
cabinette outhouse Avenue streetcar runs on
cocodrie alligator the neutral ground)
Cajun descendants of the Acadians nonc uncle
who settled in South Louisiana nutria South American rodent
in the 18th century imported to Louisiana in the
charivari (shi-va-ree) noisy mock late 18th century. The nutria
serenade to a newly married is an important part of the
older couple fur industry
chaudron a cauldron or large kettle ouaouaron (wah-wah-rohn) bullfrog
cher (share) widespread term of parish civil and political division in
endearment in Cajun Louisiana (like a county)
French patois (pat-wah) dialect: different
cold drink soda with ice Cajun communities speak
coulée (cool-ay) ravine or gully their own patois

Creole descendant of original French pirogue (pee-row) long, shallow canoe

or Spanish settlers praline (praw-LEEN) candy made with
Creole of colorr descendant of French or sugar, cream, and pecans,
Spanish settlers with African very popular in New Orleans
blood rat de bois (rat-de-bwah) opossum
doubloons aluminum coins thrown to shotgun house long, narrow house
Mardi Gras crowds T or Ti petite, junior, a nickname
dressin’ room polite term for the bathroom (T-frere = baby brother)
248 P H R A S E B O O K

Vieux Carré (voo-cah-RAY)

A literally “Old dirty rice rice mixed with chicken
Square”, the French Quarter gizzards and livers, green
ward political division of New pepper, onions, and spices
Orleans
etoufféee method of cooking crawfish
where y’at? how are you? or shrimp, simmered with
vegetables
Street and Town Names
filé ground sassafras leaves, used
Atchafalaya (chaf-fly) large (800,000 acres) to thicken gumbo
swampy wilderness area in
South Louisiana grillades meat smothered with thick
tomato gravy, always served
Tchoupitoulas St (chop-a-TOOL-us)
with grits
Burgundy St. (bur-GUN-dy)
Chartres St. (CHART-ers) grits ground, hulled corn, cooked
and served with butter, salt,
Euterpe St. (YOU-terp)
and pepper
Melpomene A
Ave. (MEL-pom-meen)
Metairie (MET’ry) suburb of New Orleans gumbo spicy soup with okra,
tomatoes, seafood, served
Terpsichore St. (TERP-si-core) over rice
Opelousas Ave.
A (opp-a-LOO-sas)
jambalaya thick stew of rice, sausage,
Lafayette (laugh-e-YET) unofficial capital seafood, vegetables, and
of Cajun Country spices
Plaquemine (PLACK-a-meen) town and
muffuletta huge sandwich of cold cuts,
parish south of Baton Rouge
cheese, and olive salad,
Baton Rouge (bat’n ROOZH) capital of served on Italian bread
Louisiana
okra pod vegetable, usually served
Thibodeaux (TIBB-a-doh) common surname,
in gumbo
also a town in Cajun Country
Natchitoches (NACK-uh-dish) oldest town in oysters oysters on the half shell,
the Louisiana Purchase area Rockefeller covered with a creamy
spinach sauce, and baked
Ponchatoula (ponch-a TOOL-ah) town on
on a bed of salt
the north shore of Lake
Pontchartrain po’boyy sandwich of fried seafood,
roast beef, ham, or a mixture,
Cajun & Creole Cooking served on French bread
andouille pork and garlic sausage remoulade spicy mayonnaise-based
seafood sauce
beignett square, deep-fried doughnut,
dusted with powdered sugar roux mixture of butter and flour,
boudin spicy pork, rice, and onion mixed with water and
sausage seasonings; used as a base
formany soups, gravies, and
bread pudding French bread soaked in milk sauces
and egg, baked, and served
with whiskey sauce shrimp Creole shrimp cooked with tomato
sauce and seasoned with
bouillabaisse French seafood stew onions, green pepper, celery,
café au laitt dark roast coffee served with and garlic
steamed milk Tabasco™ hot, red pepper sauce
chicoryy coffee additive, made of made only at Avery Island;
roasted, ground roots often used for any brand of
pepper sauce, of which
crawfish (cray-fish) often called there are hundreds of
“mudbugs,” a delicious, small, brands available
lobster-like crustacean found
in the creeks and bayous in tasso local highly seasoned smoked
Louisiana ham
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