2IJTFTDOCT20192
2IJTFTDOCT20192
ABSTRACT
Textile is a wide sector in the world now-a-days. It divided into different sections and has developed different properties.
Textile fabric contains some essential properties. Color fastness is a vital property among the all textile fabric properties.
It is the resistance of the textile materials or goods for resisting against various destructive factors like Light, wearing,
abrasion, heat, water and wash with detergents, acid and like so on. Color fastness means the resistance of color to be
bleed with others or fade of colored material both of printed or solid dyed to various kinds of influences like rubbing,
Original Article
perspiration, light, water, washing with detergents or others washing agents and others which phenomenon are carried
out in daily basis with textile materials. This study concerns with the effect of shade percentage on the color fastness of
viscose fabric dyed with reactive dyes like color fastness to wash, color fastness to light, color fastness to perspiration and
color fastness to rubbing.
KEYWORDS: Viscose Fabric, Chemicals & Auxiliaries, Reactive Dyes, Shade Depth & Color Fastness
Received: May 10, 2019; Accepted: May 30, 2019; Published: Oct 03, 2019; Paper Id.: IJTFTDOCT20192
INTRODUCTION
Now-a-days textile is one of the top most covered business area in all over the world and also improving its market rapidly
day-by-day. The end users of the textile materials or goods are being well conscious about those products which are they
getting and sourcing something new and much more improved quality of product they have. Now-a-days it becomes the
high challenge for the manufacturer for obtaining the profit amount which they earned before. Because as one side it is
being essential to improve the quality of the product, on the other hand they faced a great challenge to reduce the product
price. They are trying to modify their process to obtain the profit and getting output with better quality product. In my
research, I clearly described the present and latest standard working procedures and methods for evaluating and testing the
color fastness of the textile materials viscose fabric and deduce a vital relation between the depth of shade and various
types of color fastness. In case of viscose fabric it has a great effect of shade depth on color fastness.
Viscose is the oldest fiber and it is a regenerated cellulose fiber from wood pulp which shows a wide range
of diverse property. Cellulosic substances are abundantly used natural polymer in worldwide. Because, it is really
very eco-friendly, biodegradable and easily renewable polymer. Wood pulp and cotton lint are the main raw
materials for producing viscose fiber. This wood pulps are undergoing through a purification process and obtained
purified material contain about 95–99% of cellulosic polymer which are commonly known as chemical cellulose
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16 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
and dissolving pulp. These are used for producing regenerated fibers. In this paper, I described the details of viscose fiber
properties and color fastness test methods.
Viscose fiber is more hydrophilic in nature compared with cotton fiber where moisture content of cotton fiber is 8.5% at
27° C temperature and 65% of relative humidity, viscose fiber have moisture content 13% under the similar conditions.
Elasticity
Viscose fiber shows only 2–3% of elasticity. For this, during different stage of processing where tension applied on the
viscose fiber need to be more aware to avoid unwanted tearing.
Strength
When viscose fiber gets wet it loses its strength too rapidly. In dry condition tensile strength of viscose fiber is 1.5-2.5
g/denier, where in wet condition it is only 0.7–1.2%.
Elongation
In general viscose fiber has an elongation at break is 15–30% but in case of high tenacity viscose fiber shows
comparatively less about 10–18% only.
Density
There are various types of density found in viscose fiber such as 1.5 g/cc, 3.0 g/cc, 4.5 g/cc. Mostly available viscose fiber
density is 1.53 g/cc.
Effect of Temperature
Viscose fiber loses its strength at 149°C temperature and start to decompose at 177°C to 205°C.
Effect of Light
As a regenerated fiber, Viscose has the more amorphous region in its construction. As a result its degree of polymerization
is less than cotton fiber. So viscose fiber readily reacts with different chemicals like sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and
decomposes cellulose as hydrocellulose.
Effect of Acid
The same concentration of Cotton fiber is less than acid. Inorganic acids are very harmful for viscose fiber but organic acid
like acidic acid may use at low concentration below or equal 2%.
Generally, soaping agent has not any significant effect on viscose fiber but improper soaping agent may cause bad odor
and rancidity.
Effect of Heat
Under the sunlight, the viscose fiber gradually losses its strength.
Effect of Solvent
Viscose has the solubility in cupramonium hydroxide. In other general solvents which are used as textile solvent cannot
deteriorate.
Ferrous hydroxide weakens the viscose fiber. Any iron present in processing of viscose fiber may cause staining, rusting or
any types of spots.
Effect of Microorganisms
Different microorganisms readily attack the viscose fiber. Most of the microorganisms attack at wet condition. Perfectly
dried viscose generally not attacked by molds and mildew.
Viscose fabric absorbs dyes rapidly and uniformly. For this reason we easily obtain various types of shade, ton and
hues. Viscose fiber gives very brighter shade. Its color last long with its life time and end user get better color
fastness. It gives very smooth hand feel. For comfortable and colorful product anyone can confidently choose this
fiber.
Reactive Dyes
The textile coloring substance which chemically reacts with the textile materials and being a part of the fiber by producing
covalent bond with the fiber reactive group is called reactive dyes.
The chemical reaction takes place between the reactive group of dye particle and fiber molecule. Reactive dyes contain
amino group. Normally, it makes covalent bond with hydroxide ion of cellulose.
Application
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18 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
Trade Name
Where,
B = Linker
X= Reactive group
• Exhaustion
• Fixation
• Reduction or washing out of unfixed dyes
Exhaustion
After immersion of textile material into the dye liquor, a salt is injected as an electrolyte for better exhaustion of dye particles
on the fiber surface. Previously, we used NaCl but now-a-days we are using MgSO4 as an electrolyte.
Fixation
Fixation refers as the procedure of dye particle to be an integral part of textile material by reacting between fiber reactive
group and dye molecule reactive group by forming covalent bond. For proper fixing strong alkali like caustic soda (NaOH)
is added by dosing. At this stage proper pH should be maintained. The chemical reactions take place at this stage are shown
below.
Reduction
After completing the dyeing process, a reduction cleaning with or without soaping agent is very essential to remove
unfixed dye molecules from the surface of textile material. It may be a block wash or rinsing in hot condition or cold
conditions. It is very essential for evenness and color fastness.
Since the dye partials are chemically bonded with the fiber by strong covalent bond, it is very difficult to fully striped.
Stripping is mainly of two types. They are
Partial Stripping
Partial stripping may carried out by processing the colored materials with dilute organic acid like acetic acid or formic
acids. In this stage temperature raise up to 98°C and give run time until required amount of color come out of the solution.
The recipe may be as following
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20 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
Temperature: 98° C
Time: Generally 60 minutes
Full Stripping
Turquoise Color
Turquoise is not any dyes actually it is one of the kinds of reactive dyes. It gives bluish or greenish ton and hue of color.
The word invented from the French word “Turkish”. Normally shade appears fade bluish or faded green.
Process Flow Chart for Viscose Knit Fabric Dyeing With Reactive Dye (Turquoise Color)
Fill water
↓
pH check
↓
Raise temperature up to 40° C
↓
Inject Levelling agent
↓
Levegal RLC
↓
Ronlube Plus C
↓
Sequion 4898
↓
Color dosing 40° × 30/ (50% linear dossing)
↓
Run time 15 minutes
↓
Salt dossing 40° × 20/
↓
Raise temperature up to 85° C
↓
Run time 30 minutes
↓
Cooling at 40° C
↓
1 time soda dossing 40° × 20/
st
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22 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
Drain
↓
Fill water
↓
Rinse 10 minutes
↓
Drain
↓
Fill water
↓
Rinse 5 minutes
↓
Drain
↓
Fill water
↓
Inject fixing agent at 40° C
↓
Run time 20 minutes
↓
Shade check
↓
If shade ok
↓
Drain
↓
Fabric unload
↓
Send for next process
Color Fastness
Color fastness of textile dyed materials is a vital property. The end user customers are very aware about the color fastness
of dyed materials. Color fastness means that the resistance of color to be bleed with others or fade of colored material both
in printed or solid dyed to various kinds of influences like rubbing, perspiration, light, water, washing with detergents or
others washing agents and others which phenomenon are carried out in daily basis with textile materials. We can easily get
a large amount of paper for the color fastness.
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24 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
• International Organization for Standardization (ISO). This organization has two different scales for measuring
colorfastness. One for the Color fastness to light and another is for color fastness to (wash, water, perspiration, rubbing etc.)
• Chemical composition of the textile materials. Cellulosic fiber like cotton or viscose dyed with reactive dyes
shows good colorfastness but any of synthetic fiber shows very poor color fastness if dyed with reactive dyes.
Actually synthetic fiber will not adsorb the dye particle.
• Molecular size. In case of larger size of dye molecule, it will trap into intermolecular space of fiber very tightly
and will show better color fastness.
• Physical form of dyes. It may be in liquid, paste or solid form. Different forms will show different color fastness.
• Foreign agents.
• Condition of testing.
• The way of dye chemical to be the part of textile material. Such as if any chemical bonds form then the color
fastness will be better rather than physically bonded materials. Covalent bond will show better than hydrogen
bond.
Measuring Scale
There are two scale are available for measuring color fastness. Grey scale and wool blue scale.
Figure 3: Gray Scale for Color Change. Figure 4: Gray Scale for Staining.
The resistance of colored substance from bleeding or being faded when undergoing through the different washing process
is known as color fastness to wash.
At first, we need to prepare a sample. Then the sample is attached with a multi-fiber fabric. Then wash under the specific
condition. Then assessed the multi-fiber component for checking staining and match with the color fastness measuring
scale for rating.
Sample size should be 10cm×4cm. This sample attached with same size of adjacent fabric to produce sandwich
structure. One side of this specimen is stitched and subjected to wash under the specific condition. Color fastness to wash
and we checked both color change and color staining. We used various washing procedure as shown in the Table 1.
For different methods solutions should be prepared by following the recommended temperature of washing for that
method. The liquor ratio should be 50:1. After washing in recommended duration soaping is carried out. Then, wash with
cold water and rinse 2 times. Finally, the Elements are dried at the recommended temperature which should not be more
than 60°C. That was evaluated with the gray scale.
Resistance of color bleeding, staining or being fade of any dyed or printed material against water is called color fastness to
water. Color fastness to water is measured by following principle of the method ISO 105 E01 or AATCC 107/1991.
Actually, degree of staining is measured by this process when the textile material gets wet.
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26 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
This is an essential fastness for any types of textile material dyed with any type of dyes by any dyeing techniques.
Instrument
• Sample specimen
• Multi-fiber fabric
• Glass beaker
• Stirring rod
• Glass Plate
• Perspiration meter
• Light box
• Gray Scale
• Dryer/oven
• Weight
Reagent
Distilled water is required to get actual result because natural water is contaminated with various metallic and nonmetallic
irons.
Sample Preparation
10cm×4cm sample has cut and sewing one side with multi-fiber fabric.
Table 4: Contd.,
Rubbing Fastness
When we wear a garment it is subjected to the friction with body and in different attack. If in this time color migrates to
our body or other substance with which it goes friction it will not be acceptable. The resistance of color migration or
staining due to rubbing with other substance is called color fastness to rubbing. Rubbing fastness generally measured in
two conditions; wet and dry state.
• ISO 105/X12
• AATCC/08
These two methods are about on same principle but different in wet pickup percentage. Hundred percentage wet pickup
ensures ISO method. On the other hand only 65% wet pickup is enough for AATCC method. Rubbing fastness normally
carried out in two conditions:
In case of wet rubbing test the rubbing material gets wet and then set with the finger of rubbing tester and carried out for
10–12 cycle of rub. In case of dry rubbing taste the whole method is similar to the wet rub just the dry abrading substance
will be set with the finger of tester. Rubbing fastness actually shows the fixing quality of the dyes during coloration.
Therefore, we can say better the color fastness to rubbing better the color fastness to wash and water.
• Particle size: Larger the particle sizes better the rubbing fastness.
• Shade depth: Deeper the shade poorer the rubbing fastness.
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28 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
The light fastness can be defined as the resistance of color of any dyed or printed material from being fades when subjected to a
light of specific wave length. After fully finished the material and prior to make garments in case of cut and sew garments color
fastness to light observed via a testing method. When the user will come out from their residence, they come and expose to
sunlight on the surface of the garments. Therefore, it is very much essential to know the resistivity of fading against sunlight of
those materials. To ensure this quality of the product color fastness to light is measured and rated by comparing with blue scale.
Color fastness to light shows that the quality of product by which we can come to know about the stability of color against
the exposure of light. At first, a sample prepared is kept under a continuous exposing of light source for 24–72 hours or any
duration as per customer demand. Then take out from there and compare with the blue scale to rate how much it changed.
Grading of Blue Scale
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30 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
Perspiration test is essential for those products which are used for those of purpose where sweating probability high. The
textile goods are used in household work like curtain, table cloth or any other decorative textiles. The items mostly used for
sports need better quality against perspiration. Perspiration rating should be at least 3–4 according to the gray scale.
Without sportswear normal clothes are also tested for color fastness to perspiration.
The resistance of color of any colored material solidly dyed or printed against the perspiration or sweat of
the human body is called color fastness to perspiration. The sweat of the human body may be of two types acidic or
alkaline. Both types of perspiration need to be tested. If the color of the garments come out with the sweating of the
human body, it will be very annoying situation. Wet rubbing and wash fastness should be good prior to be good
perspiration fastness good.
Reagent
Solution Preparation
Alkaline Solution
About 0.5 g of 1-Histidine Mono Hydrochloride Mono Hydrate, 2.5 g of Disodium Hydrogen Orthophosphate and 5 g of
Sodium Chloride are dissolved in 1 L of distilled water with 0.1N caustic soda. The obtained solution will be alkaline in
which the pH will be about 8.0.
Acidic Solution
About 0.5 g of 1-Histidine Mono Hydrochloride Mono Hydrate, 2.2 g of Disodium Hydrogen Orthophosphate and 5 g of
Sodium Chloride are dissolved in 1 L of distilled water with 0.1N caustic soda. The obtained solution will be acidic in
which the pH will be about 5.5.
Sample preparation
A sample of 6cm×6cm is cut and sews with two same size of undyed cloth to produce composite sample for each and every
solution.
Working Procedure
The perspiration test carried out by the following test procedure for two solutions separately.
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32 Ariful Islam, Shahinul Emon & Muhammad Hossain Khan
CONCLUSIONS
In this research we have studied on knitted viscose fabric dyed with reactive dye (Turquoise color). Fastness of colored
material is essential for each and every goods which solidly dyed or printed. It refers the stability of color against various
influences. Actually, comfort with quality is the crying demand now-a-days. At modern era no fabric can be delivered
without better color fastness to various influences. In this study, the influence of the shade percentage on the color fastness
to wash, to light, to rubbing, to water, to perspiration is investigated and evaluated. Results confirmed that the depth of the
shade has a significant effect on the change of the color fastness properties. With the increase of the depth of the shade its
color fastness performance decreases.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
This research carried out by the cooperation and ascertainment of each authors. The whole report is assessed by every
authors and our guide supervisor. We really would like to humbly thanks and honor to all the members of Epyllion Group
for their cooperation and increasing enthusiasm for completing this research paper.
REFERENCES
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formulation. Part 2: modeling and optimization of dyeing performances.
2. The Effect of Temperature Variation on Dyeing Tie-Dye viscose Fabrics Dyed with Reactive Dye.
4. Aspland, J.R., Textile Dyeing and Coloration. Textile Hub 2006. 1(3): p. 265–274.
6. Broadbent and A.D, Basic Principle of Textile Coloration. A.S.T.M, 2001. 1(2): p. 337.
7. https://www.britannica.com/technology/dye
9. www.slideshare.com
10. www.dinetextile.blogpost.com
11. Textilelearner.blogpost.com