DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Boston PDF

eyewitness travel
boston
eyewitness travel
boston
Main Contributors Tom Bross, Patricia Harris,
and David Lyon
Contents
How to Use This Guide 6
Project Editor Marcus Hardy
Art Editor Nicola Rodway
Editor Simon Hall
US. Editor Mary Sutherland
Designers Elly King, Nikala Sim
Map Co-Ordinators Dave Pugh, Casper Morris
DTP Maite Lantaron
Picture Researcher Brigitte Arora
Production Michelle Thomas
Contributors
Tom Bross, Brett Cook, Patricia Harris, Carolyn Heller,
David Lyon, Juliette Rogers, Kem Sawyer
Photographers
Demetrio Carrasco, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Stephen Conlin, Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Chris Orr & Associates,
Robbie Polley, John Woodcock
Maps
Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes, Sam Johnston,
James Macdonald (Colourmap Scanning Ltd) Tiffany window in the Arlington Street
Printed and bound in China
Church, Back Bay
First American Edition, 2001

14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc.,

Introducing
345 Hudson Street, New York, NY 10014 Boston
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Great Days
Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008,
2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017 in Boston 10
Copyright © 2001, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company Putting Boston
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in on the Map 14
a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior
written permission of the copyright owner. The History of Boston 18
A cataloging in publication record is
available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554
Boston at a Glance 28
ISBN 978-1-4654-6026-4
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage;

ie the “first floor” is the floor at ground level.
The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
The opulent Grand Lobby of the Wang
Front cover main image: Replica of Beaver, the Boston Tea Party ship, in Fort Point Channel Theatre (see p88)
Panoramic view of Boston across the Charles river with colorful sailing boats
Boston Through
the Year 36
Boston
Area by Area
Beacon Hill and
West End 42
Old Boston and

the Financial District 56 Aerial view of Boston over Back Bay and the Charles river
North End and

the Waterfront 68
Where to Eat and Survival Guide
Drink 138
Practical Information 174
Chinatown and Shopping in
the Theater Boston 152 Travel Information 180
District 80
Entertainment in Boston Street Finder 186
Back Bay and Boston 158
South End 90 General Index 192
Sports and Outdoor
Activities 164 Acknowledgments 205
Children’s
Boston 168
Pumpkins for sale, a regular sight in the fall
The 18th-century Old South Meeting House

amid Boston’s skyscrapers (see p61)
Farther Afield 102
Three Guided Walks 122
Travelers’
Needs
Trinity Church, Back Bay
Where to Stay 132 (see pp96–7)
6  HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide will help you get the most from walks, using maps, photographs, and
your visit to Boston, providing expert detailed illustrations. The sights are arranged
recommendations and detailed practical in two groups: those in Boston’s central
information. The opening section, Introducing districts, and those a little farther afield.
Boston, maps the city and sets it in its Tips for hotels, restaurants, shopping,
geographical, historical, and cultural context. entertainment, and sports can be found
Boston at a Glance is an overview of the city’s in Travelers’ Needs, while the final section,
main attractions. Section two, Boston Area by Survival Guide, contains practical advice on
Area, starts on page 40 and describes all the everything from public transportation
important sights plus three recommended and telephones to personal safety.
Boston Area by Area covers, describing its history and the area; for sights farther away,
Each of the six sightseeing areas character. For central districts, by a regional map. A simple
is color-coded for easy reference. this is followed by a Street- numbering system relates sights
Every chapter opens with an by-Street map illustrating a to the maps. Important sights
introduction to the area it particularly interesting part of are covered by several pages.
OLD BOSTON AND THE

FINANCIAL DISTRICT
This is an area of Boston where old and new
BOSTON AREA BY AREA
modernist-style City Hall and Government

 57
1 Introduction to the Area

For easy reference, the sights are
numbered and plotted on an
area map, with “T” stations shown
sit one on top of the other. Some of its sights, Center, while to the east is the city’s bustling
situated in the older part of the district Financial District. This once formed part of
closest to Boston Common, predate the Boston’s harbor waterfront, a district built
American Revolution (see pp22–3). Much of on mercantile wealth. Today, the wharves
what can be seen today, though, was built
more recently. The north of the district
is home to Boston’s late 20th-century,
and warehouses have been replaced by
skyscrapers belonging to banks, insurance
companies, and high-tech industries.
where helpful. The key sights (historic
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Squares
Restaurants pp143–4
buildings, churches, museums, and
open-air sights) are listed by category.
1 Anthem
0 Blackstone Block 2 Blue Ink
r Post Office Square 3 Boloco
Historic Buildings 4 Bond Restaurant and Lounge
and Churches 5 Chacarero
1 Omni Parker House 6 Durgin Park
2 King’s Chapel and 7 Mooo...
North 8 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
Burying Ground Station
3 Old City Hall ET 9 Sakura-Bana
RE
4 Old Corner ST 10 Sam LaGrassa’s
LO
AY 11 Silvertone
W
Bookstore
C
EL
W
F RI
SE 12 The Black Rose

L
5 Old South Meeting

N
EN
AU
ST
A
D
PO
13 The Kinsale
L
House C
RE
S TR
RT
LA STRE
ET
SE 14 The Oceanaire Seafood Room

EE
NC ET
LA
6 Old State
T
ER
AS
ST
ND
ME AV ET
15 Union Oyster House
TE
House pp62–3 TR STRE

RE
RRI
EET
ST
MA
ET
7 Center Plaza C
STR
R
EET
S TA N I F O R D S T
8 Boston City Hall

BL
This shaded area

9 Government Center
A
Haymarket
C
KS
q Faneuil Hall ST
BO RE
TO
ST
W
Color-coded
H AW
w Quincy Market UR
KE
NE
ST
DB
ET
R
RE KI
e Custom House Bowdoin E T NS SU
is shown in greater
CO
ST
W
t Verizone Building
RE
NE
NG
UNI
C A MB R I D G E
ET
ST
ET
thumb tabs
ON
RES
RE
STREET
ST
STREE
CLINTON ST
ST
C
detail on the Street-

RT
AM
CITY HALL NO
AT
AT
BR
PEM PLAZA
LA
I DG
LA
STREE
BE
mark each area.

RTON
Government
BOWDOIN
NTI
NTI
SOMERSET
T R E ET
Center C H AT H A M S
C A
by-Street map.
C
CO State T
T
URT REE
STR
SQU
STREE ST
T S TATE
VENU
ARE
AV E N U
EE
N
FINANCIAL DIA
I
T
CO N ST
E
BE A D I ST R I C T R E E T ST
R EET
SCH
E
OOL ST B
STR RO
ST
BO EET W AT E R ST BA
TTE AD
SW RY ST
ON
OR K
PE
0 meters 300 ST TH IL RE
ST
ET
AR
BR
M
GT
M
O
OM
AR
LI
L
VE
N
FIE
CH
0 yards 300 ST
HI
LD
DEVONSHIRE
EET
ST
AS
STR
ST
ST
RE
Locator map
ST
W
FEDERA
N
ET
RE
LI
EET
H
ET
G
NK
F RA
HI
A
FR
STR
KL
N
IN
ST
L
CO
PE
A RL
U
NG
EN
STREET
H
AV
RC
ST
R ES
ST
E
A
EN
S
S
ET
O TI
AV
RE
ST
ST
SU
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M
IC
M GH NT
HI
T
ER
S TR
5 T8L A
A
 T
B IO
C STON AREA BY AREA OLD BOSTON AND THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT  59
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2 EE L AN
T AT
Street-by-Street: Colonial Boston 6 . Old State House

Once the seat of the
NORTH END
AND THE
The iconic Old State House in Boston’s Financial District For keys to symbols see back flap
British colonial OLD
WATERFRONT
An important part of Boston’s Freedom Trail (see government, the Old

BOSTON
AND THE
pp126–9) runs through this historic core of the city, State House is now FINANCIAL
DISTRICT
the site of which predates American Independence. a museum nestling
BEACON HILL
Naturally, the area is now dominated by 19th- among the skyscrapers AND
of the district. WEST END
and 20th-century development, but glimpses of
a colonial past are prevalent here and there in the
Old State House, King’s Chapel and its adjacent Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 1 & 2
burying ground, and the Old South Meeting House.
Newer buildings of interest include the Omni Irish Famine Memorial,
Washington Street
A locator map
Parker House, as well as the towering skyscrapers
of Boston’s financial district, located on the
northwest edges of this area.
shows where you are 2 . King’s Chapel and

Burying Ground
Government
Center
in relation to other A church has stood here

since 1688, though the
current building dates
New England
Aquarium
from 1749. The adjacent
areas of the city center. cemetery is the resting

place of some of
the most important
figures in U.S. history.
SC
HO
ET
OL
4 Old Corner Bookstore
RE
ST
RE
ST
ET Dating back to 1718, this

building boasts a rich
N
TO
literary heritage as a
G
famous literary gathering

IN
ET
SH
place, a bookstore and a

RE
publishing company.
W
ST
CE
N
VI
D E V O N S H I R E
O
PR
MI
LK
ST
RE
ET
2
1 Omni Parker House
S T R E E T
This hotel (see p135) first opened its
Street-by-Street Map
ARCH STREET
doors in 1855, then underwent many

renovations. Famed for its opulence,
in the 19th century the hotel also 5 . Old South
gained a reputation as a meeting Meeting House
This gives a bird’s-eye view of place for Boston intellectuals. The

current building was erected in 1927.
Built in 1729, this church later
became a focal point for
protest during the run-up to
the American Revolution.
interesting and important parts of 0 metres 50

Today, visitors can hear
reenactments of the debates
that once raged here.
each sightseeing area, with accurate 3 Old City Hall

This building served
as Boston’s City Hall from 1865
to 1969. Today it is converted
0 yards 50
Key
Suggested route
drawings of all the buildings within into a steak house. Downtown Crossing
them. The numbering of the sights

ties in with the preceding area map
and with the fuller descriptions on
the pages that follow. Suggested
walking route
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE  7
Boston Area Map

Boston Area by Area
The colored areas shown on this
map (see inside front cover) are
the five main sightseeing areas
NORTH END
AND THE
WATERFRONT
of central Boston (excluding the North End and

the Waterfront
Pages 68–79
Farther Afield section). Each is

Beacon Hill and
West End O LD BOSTON
Pages 42–55 AND THE
0 meters 500 FINANCIAL
BEACO N
DISTRICT
covered in a full chapter in the

0 yards 500
HIL L AND
WES T END
Boston Area by Area section (pp40–

129). The areas are also highlighted
on other maps throughout the
CHINATO WN
AND THE
BACK BAY AND THEATER DIS TRICT
S O UTH END
book. In Boston at a Glance (pp28–

39), for example, they help you to
locate the most important sights
that no visitor should miss. The Old Boston and
the Financial District
Pages 56–67
maps’ colored borders match the

colored thumb tabs at the top
Back Bay and Chinatown and the
South End Theater District
Pages 90–101 Pages 80–89
corner of each page.
Practical information lists all the

Numbers refer to each sight’s information you need to visit every
position on the area map and sight, including a map reference to
its place in the chapter. the Street Finder maps (pp186–191).
100
w
 BOSTON AREA BY AREA
Prudential Center
800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Tel (617)
859-0648.  Prudential, Hynes
Convention Center/ICA. Skywalk:
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–10pm daily;
Mapparium, where visitors
literally walk through the globe
viewing the planet from the
inside. The different colors
represent the world’s political
B A C K B AY A N D S O U T H E N D  101
3 Detailed Information on each Sight

All the important sights are described
individually. They are listed to follow
Nov–Feb: 10am–8pm daily. Closed boundaries of 1935.
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 9
When it was erected in 1965,

the Prudential Tower was
r Copley Place the numbering on the area map at
the start of the section. The key to
Huntington Ave & Dartmouth St.
the first skyscraper in the Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 369-5000.  Back
Back Bay, rising 52 floors. Office Bay/South End, Copley. Open 10am–
buildings and a shopping 9pm Mon–Sat, 11am–6pm Sun. 7
the symbols summarizing practical

center now girdle its base,
and the “Pru” is linked through Copley Place is a creation of late
indoor walkways with the Inside the beautiful, stained-glass Mapparium, Christian Science Center 20th-century urban develop-
Hynes Convention Center and ment, with hotels, an upscale
e Christian Science
information is on the back flap.

the Sheraton Back Bay Hotel its shops to the more glamorous shopping center, and restaurants.
in one unified complex. An Copley Place across busy Center Offices and luxury apartments
enclosed walkway even links Huntington Avenue. Apart from are also part of the development, Bow-fronted, red-brick houses, typical of South End’s Union Park
the shops and food courts, the 175 Huntington Ave. Map 3 B3. which rises on land created
principal attraction of the “Pru”  Symphony. Mother Church:
Tel (617) 450-2000. Open noon–
above the Massachusetts by 400-ft (121-m) painting y Union Park
is the Skywalk on the 50th Turnpike. Copley Place bears The Battle of Gettysburg by the Tremont & Shawmut Sts. Map 4 D4.
4pm Thu–Sat. 8 11am Sun. Library:
floor. The Skywalk is the only little relation to Copley Square, French artist Paul Philippoteaux.  Back Bay/South End. 7
Tel (617) 450-7000. Open 10am–4pm
360-degree aerial observatory Tue–Sun (last entry to Mapparium
but the shopping mall was a The painting was removed in
in Boston, and its location near 3:40pm). & 5 10am & 7pm Sun, success from the day it opened 1889 and is now displayed at Union Park is the green gem
the top of Boylston Street hill noon & 7:30pm Wed (no evening in 1984 and still ranks as Gettysburg National Historic of the South End, built from
provides striking views of the service Jul–Aug). 7 8 Boston’s most luxurious indoor Park. The Cyclorama now 1857 to 1859 when the neigh-
Emerald Necklace (see p105) ∑ marybakereddylibrary.org shopping mall. Its stores serves as a performance and borhood was still fashionable.
as well as downtown and include the jeweler Tiffany’s exhibition space. South End property values
A visitors’ checklist provides

the waterfront. Signs on the The world headquarters of and the status-conscious The Stanford Calderwood crashed in the Panic of 1873,
windows assist in identifying the First Church of Christ, department store Neiman Pavilion, with a 360-seat and and the entire district, Union
the landmarks below. A similar Scientist, occupies 14 acres on Marcus (see p153). a 200-seat theater, opened in Park included, became tene-
view, which visitors do not the corner of Huntington and 2004 as the first new theater ment housing for immigrants
need to pay for, is available at
the Top of the Hub restaurant
on the 52nd floor. Some of the
Massachusetts Avenues. Known
also as the Christian Science
Church, this religious body was
t Boston Center
for the Arts
built in Boston in 75 years.
The Mills Gallery houses
exhibitions focusing on
arriving from eastern Europe
and the Middle East. The South
End remains broadly mixed
the practical information you
Prudential Tower viewed across the Christian
bar windows here face west,
so those having a drink can
enjoy spectacular sunset
formed in 1879 by Mary Baker
Eddy. The granite, Romanesque-
style Mother Church dates from
539 Tremont St. Map 4 D3. Tel (617)
426-5000.  Back Bay/ South End.
Cyclorama: Open call for hours. Mills
emerging contemporary artists,
with the emphasis on multi-
media installations and shows
by ethnicity, race, and sexual
orientation. The handsome
town houses along Union Park
will need to plan your visit.
Science reflecting pool views over Boston. 1894, but it serves only as a Gallery: Open noon–5pm Wed & Sun, with confrontational, often led the South End’s economic
chapel at the rear of a grander noon–9pm Thu–Sat. Closed public provocative, themes. resurgence in the 1970s, and
basilica, which was built in 1906 hols. & for performances. ^ 7 it has become, once
Mary Baker Eddy to seat 5,000 worshipers. The ∑ bcaonline.org again, a coveted
Born in Concord, New Hampshire in 1821, Mary Baker was plagued basilica houses the western address. A pair of
with poor health for much of her early life. Fearing death after a hemisphere’s largest pipe organ, The centerpiece of a resurgent fountains, an iron
severe fall in 1866, she sought comfort in her Bible, where she manufactured in Boston by South End, the BCA complex fence, and large shade
found an account of how Jesus had healed a palsied man. Her the Aeolian-Skinner Company. includes four stages, an art trees present a truly
own miraculous recovery led her to the principle of Christian Between 1968 and 1973 the gallery, and artists’ studios parklike setting for the
Science, a doctrine which emphasizes spiritual regeneration Christian Science complex 5 2beautifully
and healing through prayer alone. In 1875 she published
as well as the Boston Ballet  B O Srestored
TON AREA BY AREA BEACON HILL AND WEST END  53
expanded to its present design, Building, home to the com- brick row houses.
her ideas in Science and Health with Key to the which includes an elegant office pany’s educational programs, The 19th-century
Scriptures, the textbook of Christian Science, tower, a reflecting pool, and a rehearsal space, and ornamental ironwork
and gathered students around her,
including Asa Gilbert Eddy, whom she
monumental plaza. administrative offices. Massachusetts State House
qon and around these
Hall of Flags
Flags carried into battle by
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Mary Baker Eddy Library The Tremont Estates Building houses is particularly regiments from the state of
married in 1877. Two years later she
organized the First Church of Christ,
for the Betterment of Humanity, at the corner of Tremont Street, The cornerstone
prized of the Massachusetts State
by architecture Massachusetts are housed
Practical Information
on the Massachusetts Ave side an organ factory in the years buffs.was
House Union
laidPark is 4, 1795, by Samuel Adams
on July Beacon Hill. Map 1 C4.
Scientist, in Boston, from which here. They are displayed
of the complex, emphasizes strictly Tel (617) 7273676.
Christian Science churches spread after the Civil War, now houses and Paul residential,
Revere. Completed on January 11, 1798, beneath a stainedglass
∑ sec.state.ma.us/trs
across the world. Mrs. Eddy remained Eddy’s inspiration rather than artists’ studios, rehearsal space, although there are a skylight depicting seals
the Charles Bulfinch-designed center of state Open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri
the active leader of the Christian church doctrine. Visitors can and an art gallery. few small shops, and of the original 13 colonies.
Science movement until her death in peer through a glass wall into The largest of the BCA government servedhave
restaurants which as a model for the U.S. (reservations recommended).
78
1910. She is buried at Mount Auburn the newsroom of the Christian buildings is the circular, domed Capitol Building
become very pop inular
Washington and as an
Cemetery in Cambridge. Science Monitor. The most Cyclorama, which opened in Red-brick façade of the Boston Center for the Arts, site inspiration
for Saturdayforand
many of the state capitols around The State House, from Boston Common Transport
popular exhibit is the 1884 to exhibit the 50-ft (15-m) of theaters and exhibition spaces theSunday brunch.
country. Later additions were made, but  Park Street.
the original building remains the archetype

of American government buildings. Its . Nurses Hall
This marble hall is lined with murals
dome, sheathed in copper and gold, serves depicting critical events leading up
as the zero mile marker for Massachusetts, to the American Revolution. The
making it, as Oliver Wendell Holmes (see name derives from the statue
p47) remarked, “the hub of the universe.” of an army nurse here, erected
to honor all the nurses who
took part in the Civil War.
Story boxes provide details on famous

people or historical events.
. House of Representatives
This elegant oval chamber was built for the
House of Representatives in 1895. The Sacred
Stars indicate the Cod, which now hangs over the gallery, came
to the State House when it first opened in
1798, and it has since hung over any place
most interesting sights.

where the representatives have met.
Entrance
KEY
1 The wings of the State windows. The windows illustrate

House, thought by many to sit the many varied state seals of
incongruously with the rest of Massachusetts: from its time as
4
the structure, were added in 1917. a colony through to modern
Senate Chamber
Boston’s Major Sights

statehood.
2 The Great Hall is the latest Doric Hall Prior to 1895, this was the meeting
4 Administrative offices can George Washington is chamber of the House of
addition to the State House. Built
be found on the upper floors of among the historical Representatives. Situated directly
in 1990, it is lined with marble and
the building. figures represented here. beneath the State House’s magnifi
These are given more extensive

topped by a glass dome, and is
used for state functions. 5 The dome was sheathed in The center doors of the hall cent dome, the chamber features a
copper in 1802 to prevent water are only ever opened for beautiful sunburst ceiling, also
3 The main staircase is decorated leakage, and, in 1872, gilded a state governor at the designed by Charles Bulfinch.
with beautiful stainedglass in 23carat gold. end of his term or for a
coverage, sometimes two or more visiting head of state.
full pages. Historic buildings are

dissected to reveal their interiors;
museums and galleries have
color-coded floor plans to help Captions provide more detailed
you find important exhibits. information about specific sights.
INTRODUCING
BOSTON
Great Days in Boston 10–13

Putting Boston on the Map 14–17
The History of Boston 18–27
Boston at a Glance 28–35
Boston Through the Year 36–39
10  INTRODUCING BOSTON
GREAT DAYS IN BOSTON

As well as being compact and walkable, stay on pages 12–13. All the places
Boston also has an extensive subway mentioned here are cross-referenced to
system (the “T”), which makes neighboring other parts of the guide so you can ponder
Cambridge easily accessible. Here are over more detailed information and tailor
itineraries for some of the city’s prime each day’s outing to your personal interests.
historical and cultural attractions, arranged Price guidelines on pages 10–11 include
first under themes and then by length of transportation, food, and admission charges.
Afternoon In addition, Boylston Street

Refreshed, head to the Old (p98) and parallel Newbury
State House (pp62–3), the one- Street (p95) also overflow with
time seat of the British colonial some of the city’s most stylish
government. Nearby is the stores and fashion boutiques.
simple King’s Chapel and At the Copley “T” station, board
Burying Ground (p60). a train for the Museum of Fine
Continue to the Old South Arts, Boston (pp106–9), the
Meeting House (p61), where largest art museum in New
rousing speeches led to The England, with collections
Boston Tea Party (p77). End ranging from the ancient
the day relaxing in popular world to the 21st century.
Boston Common (pp48–9). After allowing ample time to
roam the galleries, head to the
upper level of the Linde Family
Culture & Fresh Air Wing to enjoy a leisurely
lunch in Bravo, the MFA’s
Two adults allow at least classy restaurant with walls,
$110–125 as one might expect, adorned
Bell tower and steeple of the 18th-century •
Impressive Trinity Church with a rotating exhibition
Old North Church •
Masterpieces in the of some of the museum’s
Museum of Fine Arts contemporary artworks.
Historic Boston •
Isabella Stewart Gardner Afternoon
Museum After lunch, head to another
Two adults allow at least $80 •
Boston skyline from Back Boston cultural treasure
•
Historic North End Bay Fens parkland nearby: the Isabella Stewart
Gardner Museum (p105).
•
A walk along the
waterfront
Here, European masterpieces
Morning are among the highlights of
•
Elegant Old State House Start the day on the lovely open the collection. After all this
•
King’s Chapel space that constitutes Copley culture, take a breath of fresh
Square (p98), which is air and enjoy a stroll
dominated by the amid the waterways,
Morning beautiful 1877 marshes, and
Start in the North End Neo-Romanesque footbridges of Back
(pp70–71), Boston’s oldest Trinity Church (pp96– Bay Fens, one of
neighborhood. Hanover 7), with its soaring the jewels of the
Street is full of Italian cafés interior spaces richly area known as The
and bakeries, and east from decorated with murals Emerald Necklace
here is the Paul Revere Mall and stained-glass (p105). This rambling
(p74), where an equestrian windows. Then, for a parkland also has
statue commemorates the bit of morning retail enchanting views
patriot. Continue to the lovely therapy, walk a short of Boston’s soaring
18th-century Old North distance to either of skyline. If you would
Church (p73), followed by two upscale urban like to extend
a stroll through Christoper malls: Copley Place this cultural day
Columbus Park (p75) for (p101) or the into the evening,
great harbor vistas. For lunch, Prudential Center make your way to
head to Quincy Market (p100), where all Symphony Hall, the
(p66) or Durgin Park (p143), your needs are catered Stained glass, acoustically fine-
with its local specialties. for under one roof. Trinity Church tuned home of the
View of Boston Harbor by John White Allen Scott, 1853
G R E AT D AY S I N B O S TO N  11
acclaimed Boston Symphony

Orchestra (p160), for a
A Family Day
classical music fest. Or, just
a block away, audiences Family of four allow $235
regularly fill Jordan Hall •
Get wet on the Boston
for concerts and recitals Duck Tour
presented by students of the •
Swan Boat lagoon “cruise”
New England Conservatory
of Music (p160). Alternatively,
•
Tropical fish in the New
if you are in the mood for England Aquarium
drama, the independent •
Hand’s-on fun in the
Huntington Theatre (p160) Children’s Museum
stages first-rate productions,
while the Colonial Theatre
(p160), in the Theater District, Morning
presents tours of recent Get children acquainted
Broadway hits. with this kid-friendly city by
joining Boston Duck Tours
Majestic façade of the Memorial (p183), which provides narrated
Hall in Harvard Yard sightseeing tours in World
War II-era amphibious vehicles.
(p114–15), which assemble all The downtown tour includes
of Harvard’s major art collec- the Charles River, an exciting
tions under one gorgeous roof way to view the city’s skyline.
designed by the Italian archi- Then stroll through the Public
tect Renzo Piano. Don’t miss Garden (pp48–9), locale of
the ancient Chinese bronzes, bronze duck sculptures. Real
the brash German Expressionist ducks also swim on the park’s
canvases, or the fine examples lagoon, and you can join them
of Post-Impressionism. Back aboard a pedal-powered Swan
in Harvard Square, Grafton Boat. Take the subway from
The Boston Symphony Orchestra performing Street Pub (p149) offers a Arlington “T” station to Aquarium
at Symphony Hall good-value lunch. “T” station, where the New
England Aquarium (pp78–9) has
Afternoon a huge tank full of tropical fish,
Cambridge Academia After lunch, visit the Harvard sharks, and stingrays. For lunch,
Museum of Natural History stroll along the waterfront to
Two adults allow at least $95 (p116) to see the scientifically enjoy fresh local fish at the
•
Bustling Harvard Square accurate glass flowers. For Barking Crab (p144).
another cultural experience, ride
•
Harvard Yard architecture
a No. 1 bus to the MIT Campus Afternoon
•
European masterpieces (p123) to savor avant-garde Walk across the bridge to the
in the Harvard University 20th-century architecture and highly interactive Children’s
Art Museums Alexander Calder’s 12-m (40-ft) Museum (p77). Permanent
•
MIT campus and high stabile The Big Sail. Catch features include a rock-climbing
museums the subway back to central wall, a construction zone, a
Boston from Kendall Station. maze, and a science playground.
Morning
Catch a Red Line train across
the river to the college town
of Cambridge (pp110–11),
emerging at Harvard Square.
This is the site of the nation’s
oldest and most prestigious
university. Immerse yourself in
the scholarly atmosphere by
visiting Harvard Yard (pp112–
13), surrounded by lecture halls
and dormitories that cover a
broad spectrum of American
architecture. From here, head
to the eminent Harvard
University Art Museums Visitors on a relaxing Swan boat cruise in Boston’s Public Garden
England Aquarium (pp78–9).

2 Days in Boston Sit on a bench at Faneuil Hall
(p65) or Quincy Market (p66)
•
Take a stroll through to enjoy two of the city’s most
Boston Common and the popular sights. End the day with
Public Garden a stroll through the atmospheric
•
Enjoy a behind-the-scenes North End. View the Paul Revere
tour of Fenway Park House (p75) and Old North
Church (p73) by moonlight, then
•
Take a look at some pricey
choose from the neighborhood’s
real estate on Beacon Hill
dozens of restaurants and cafés.
Gold eagle sculpture symbolizing America

Day 1
3 Days in Boston on the west façade of Old State House
Morning Begin your day
people-watching at Boston
•
Admire priceless art at the Day 2
Common and the Public Museum of Fine Arts Morning Start your day on
Garden (pp48–9). Indulge your •
Head to the waterfront historic Beacon Hill (p44–45).
inner child with a calming ride New England Aquarium Be sure to check out Louisburg
on the famous Swan Boats and Square (p46) and the well-
•
Peruse Back Bay’s world-
later go shopping at the nearby curated boutiques and antique
class shops
Back Bay’s (pp92–3) world-class shops that line Charles Street
shops. Refuel at one of the many (p46). Travel along the
lunch spots on Boylston Street. waterfront until you reach the
Day 1 seaport district to enjoy water
Afternoon Acquaint yourself Morning The Old State House views and a delicious lunch of
with Boston’s baseball fervor by (pp62–63) provides an easy start- locally caught seafood.
taking a tour of Fenway Park ing point for the Freedom Trail
(p168), the country’s oldest (p126–29). Check out the historic Afternoon Take a short walk to
baseball park and a city land- Faneuil Hall (p65), then walk on Fan Pier, where the Institute of
mark. Continue your culture to the North End, where you’ll Contemporary Art (p76) stands
crawl with an afternoon at the see the Paul Revere House (p75) facing the harbor. It has become
Museum of Fine Arts (pp106–9). and the lovely 18th-century Old the region’s focal point for
North Church (p73). Lunch modern art and also features
Day 2 options abound, with dozens of speakers and live music. Spend
Morning Explore some of New Italian eateries and two bakeries. the evening at Faneuil Hall
England’s priciest real estate on Marketplace (p66) and enjoy
the historic Beacon Hill (p44). Afternoon Take a brisk stroll the many street performances.
Grab a beverage and peruse the along the waterfront through
many high-end boutiques and Christopher Columbus Park Day 3
antique shops that line the beau- (p75) and watch pleasure boats Morning Beat the crowds by
tiful Charles Street (p46). Then bobbing in the Boston Harbor. taking one of the first tours of the
head towards the harbor to At the New England Aquarium day at Fenway Park. Visit the nearby
enjoy lunch alfresco at one of the (pp78–9) you can enjoy face-to- Museum of Fine Arts (pp106–9)
restaurants on the waterfront. face encounters with harbor next, the largest art museum in
seals and stingrays. Later, take New England. Later, take the
Afternoon Enjoy one of the city’s in the city’s theater scene at speedy elevator to the top of the
water-based attractions such as top venues such as the Wang iconic Prudential Tower (p100),
Boston Duck Tours or the New and Shubert Theatres (p88). where you can enjoy unparalleled
views from the Skywalk observatory
and while dining at Top of the Hub.
Afternoon Take a leisurely

stroll through Boston Common
and the Public Garden (pp48–9),
and enjoy a ride on the season-
ally operating Swan Boats. Walk
up and down Newbury Street
(p95) and Boylston Street (p98),
both of which are lined with
world-class shops. The trendy
South End is great for a walk
later on, buzzing with energy
Fenway Park, a historical landmark and home of the Boston Red Sox Baseball team from its bars and restaurants.
G R E AT D AY S I N B O S TO N  13
5 Days in Boston
•
Walk through the Harvard
and MIT campuses
•
People-watch at Faneuil
Hall and Quincy Market
•
Enjoy a hearty Italian
dinner at the North End
Day 1
Morning Start your day with a
visit to one, or both, of the city’s MIT’s Great Dome surrounded by other university buildings in the college town of Cambridge
most lauded museums: the
Museum of Fine Arts (pp106–9) Day 3 Harbor Islands. Take a step back
and the Isabella Stewart Morning Grab a coffee or tea in in time and enjoy a visit to
Gardner Museum (p105). Next, one of Beacon Hill’s (p44) several Georges or Castle Islands, and
go for a behind-the scenes tour coffee shops, then stroll through snap stunning pictures of the
at Fenway Park that allows the handsome cobblestone Boston skyline from Spectacle
visitors the opportunity to touch streets lined with impressive Island. Upon returning to the
the famous “Green Monster” million-dollar real estate, espe- Boston waterfront, head straight
outfield wall. Have lunch at the cially in the exclusive Louisburg to the North End for a bite.
Prudential Tower (p100) food Square (p46). Next, visit the
court that offers several eating acclaimed boutiques and antique Afternoon A short stroll from the
options as well as stunning views shops along the scenic Charles North End, Charlestown (p117)
from the Skywalk observatory. Street (p46). The many popular exudes history. Simply follow
cafés here offer sidewalk views. the Freedom Trail (p126–29)
Afternoon Indulge in world- and you’ll arrive at the Bunker
class shopping by visiting chic Afternoon Walk along the Hill Monument (p117), site of the
Copley Place (p101) or the two waterfront until you reach the infamous Battle of Bunker Hill.
main shopping streets: Newbury Institute of Contemporary Art Head back towards the water to
Street (p95) and Boylston Street (p76), a go-to destination for visit the historic Charlestown
(p98). A short walk away is the lovers of modern art. Special Navy Yard (p117) and the
Boston Common and the exhibits, speakers, and live music U.S.S. Constitution (p117).
Public Garden (pp48–9) where performances are commonplace.
you can enjoy a ride on the Then follow the crowds to the Day 5
Swan Boats. Round off the day charming North End, where Morning Greet the day with
with a stroll through the trendy, popular Italian eateries have a walk through Christopher
lively South End neighborhood. lines out the door most nights. Columbus Park (p75). Then walk
to the New England Aquarium
Day 2 Day 4 (pp78–9) to see the giant ocean
Morning From Boston, hop on Morning Hop on one of the tank or watch a 3D film on the
the subway’s red line until you frequent, inexpensive boats that huge IMAX screen. Then hop
reach Harvard Square (p110), shuttle visitors to the Boston aboard a Boston Duck Tour. Enjoy
an inviting neighborhood filled tasty dishes of locally caught
with eclectic shops and eateries. seafood at one of the Seaport
To best appreciate Cambridge’s District’s waterfront eateries.
(pp110–11) preeminent standing
in worldwide academia, explore Afternoon Take a walk on the
the campus of Harvard University. famous Freedom Trail (p126–29)
Enjoy lunch in Harvard Square and visit the Old State House
while watching the bustling (pp62–3), then visit the iconic
crowds of students and tourists. Faneuil Hall (p65). Next, you’ll
reach the North End, where you
Afternoon Visit one of the can sit and relax outside the Old
Harvard University Art North Church (p73). Later, laugh
Museums (pp114–16), then the night away by catching a
make the short journey to the big-name comedian at the
Massachusetts Institute of Wilbur Theatre. Or, if the weather
Technology (p111), whose allows, catch a lively rock concert
campus is filled with fascinating The entrance to Quincy Market, a hub at the city’s largest waterfront
architecture, museums, and art. of social activity in the Financial District venue, the Blue Hills Bank Pavilion.
14  introducing boston
Putting Boston on the Map Cornwall
boston is situated along the united states’ wr

en c e
La
northeastern Atlantic coast on Massachusetts bay. St
Founded in the early 17th century around a large

natural harbor at the mouth of the charles river,
the modern city now covers an area of 49 sq miles
(127 sq km) and has a population of 600,000.
Fort Drum
boston is the capital of Massachusetts and a major
Watertown
center of American history, culture, and learning.
Lester B Toronto
Pearson La ke O n t a r i o k
ta ac
Mississauga
s
un nd
in
Mo iro
Burlington
Ad
Niagara Falls Rochester
St Catharines
Syracuse Utica
Buffalo Geneva Auburn

Lake Er ie
NEW YORK
Cortland Oneonta
Ithaca
ll s
ki
CANADA a ts tain
Binghamton C un
Elmira
o
M
Boston
U N I T E D S TAT E S
Mansfield
OF AMERICA
Atlantic
Ocean Scranton
Gulf of
Mexico
MEXICO Williamsport
Wilkes-Barre
a re
aw
Caribbean Sea l
De
Hazleton
Phillipsburg
PENNSYLVANIA
s
in
ta
Pittsburgh Allentown
Altoona
n
ou
Reading
y M
Harrisburg
Trenton
hen
Bedford Lancaster
Alleg
York
Philadelphia
Philadelphia Camden
Cumberland Hagerstown
Wilmington NEW
JERSEY
MARYLAND
Frederick
Baltimore
Winchester
Baltimore-
Washington Washington
Dover Delaware
WEST Strasburg Dulles
Bay
VIRGINIA Annapolis
Washington, DC
DELAWARE
VIRGINIA
For keys to symbols see back flap
putting boston on the map  15
Newport
Plattsburgh
Rumford Waterville
Burlington St Johnsbury
Augusta
MAINE
Barre
Auburn
Bridgton
VERMONT
Portland
Rutland Lebanon
NEW
HAMPSHIRE
Key
Concord Portsmouth
Highway
Saratoga
Springs Major road
Other road
See inset
map below Gloucester Railroad
Albany International border

Shipping route
Logan
MASSACHUSETTS State line
Boston
Worcester
Brockton
Springfield
Hudson
Cape
Providence Cod
Kingston
Hartford
Poughkeepsie CONNECTICUT RHODE
Norwich ISLAND
Nantucket
Island
Martha’s
New Haven Vineyard
Bridgeport nd
Sou 0 kilometers 100
nd Montauk
Isla Long
Paterson
Long Island 0 miles 50
Smithtown
Newark
New York City Brookhaven
Boston and Environs

Amesbury
New Brunswick
Haverhill
Nashua
Eatontown Lawrence
Lowell Gloucester
Liverpool, Fitchburg
Southampton, See next page
Gibraltar
Toms River Leominster Peabody
Atlantic
Waltham BOSTON Ocean
Marlborough Logan
International
Quincy
Framingham
Atlantic
City Atlantic Worcester
Weymouth
Ocean
Brockton
Woonsocket
Plymouth
0 kilometers 15 Taunton
0 miles 15
San Juan, Cape Town,
Panama Rio de Janeiro
16  iNTroduCiNg BoSToN Lowell,
Manchester
Greater Boston
129
Billerica
93
Wilmington
The city of Boston is made up of 20 separate
districts, with the central city focused around 3 62
the harbor on the Shawmut Peninsula. Much of
38
the city lies within Suffolk County, although the
greater Boston area also covers parts of Norfolk
Burlington
and Middlesex Counties. Boston is well served
by major road, rail, air, and sea links, and has a 95
good public transportation system, including Bedford
a modern subway network. 225 Woburn
38
3
Concord
Winchester
2
Lexington
Lincoln
Arlington
27
117
Belmont
Sudbury
Watertown
Wayland Weston
Marlborough 20
Waltham
90
Newton
9 Brookline
90
9
Wellesley
Framingham Natick 95
West
Worcester, Needham Roxbury
Springfield
Dedham
Sherborn
138
Westwood
Holliston
Ch
Norwood
arl
es
Medfield 1
Bowlmouse
95
Canton
Key
Central Boston Medway
Greater Boston Walpole
Highway
Major road
Minor road Sharon
Railroad line
Providence,
New York City
Portsmouth,
putting boston on the map  17
Portland
Danvers
Manchester
114
128
95 Beverly
128 Plymouth
Point
Lynnfield
1
Reading
Salem
Peabody Bakers
Island
Wakefield
107
Marblehead
Melrose 1A Tinkers
Island
Saugus Lynn
1
Nahant
Bay
Malden
Broad East
Revere Sound Point
1 Atlantic
Somerville Ocean
Winthrop
Cambridge
Logan
Boston North International Massachusetts
Boston Bay
Boston South 0 kilometers 4
0 miles 4
South Brewster
Boston Islands
Roxbury
Hull
Dorchester
93 Quin cy H in g h a m
Bay Bay
et
Ne po ns Strawberry
Point
Milton Hingham
Quincy
3A
Cohasset
53
Braintree Weymouth
Scituate
37
Accord
3
Randolph
24
Holbrook
123
138 3A
28
Stoughton Rockland
53
18
Hanover
Abington Plymouth,
Fall River Brockton Cape Cod
INTRODUCING BOSTON  19
HISTORY OF
BOSTON
Evidence of human occupation in Massachusetts dates from around
7500 BC. By around AD 500 Algonquin Indians were widespread in the
region. Hunter-gatherers, they fished, farmed beans and pumpkins, and
hunted moose and deer. They were made up of seven tribes, the closest
geographically to present-day Boston being the Massachusetts,
Wampanoags, and Nipmucks.
Other tribes in the region included 16th century, the English, French,
the Nausets around Cape Cod, the Portuguese, Spanish, and Italians
Pennacooks farther north, and Pocumtucs explored the East Coast, whaling, fishing,
and Mohicans to the west. Their dialects and trading with the natives. In 1602
came from the same language, and their the English man Bartholomew Gosnold
physical features were similar. Each tribe sailed to Massachusetts, landing on the
lived in close-knit communities of peninsula he called Cape Cod and
approximately 250 people. traversing the island he would name
Martha’s Vineyard after his daughter.
The First Europeans He returned to England with furs from
During the Age of the Vikings, Norsemen the natives and sassafras (bark of a North
from Scandinavia adventured far from American tree) to be used medicinally.
home, reaching North America. The In 1607 James I of England offered land
coastal land of Vinland discovered by in the New World to two companies. What
Leif Erikson in around AD 1000 may is now Virginia he gave to the London
well have been on the Massachusetts company, led by Captain John Smith. To a
coast. French and Spanish fishermen group from Plymouth, England, he assigned
fished here in the mid-15th century New England and land as far south as what
and the Italian-born explorer John Cabot is now Delaware. The Plymouth Company
led an English expedition to the New set out in 1607 to found a colony along
England coast once in 1497 and again the Kennebec River in present-day Maine,
in 1498. A few years later Miguel Cortereal but the harsh winter led the company to
sailed from Portugal to Massachusetts, return to England. John Smith’s Virginia
where his ship was wrecked. His name expedition was more successful. In May
was found carved on a granite rock 1607 he arrived in Jamestown, where he
with the year 1511. Throughout the founded a permanent colony.
1608 Puritan
1497 John Cabot leads English separatists flee
Viking casket expedition to New England coast England for the
Netherlands
AD 500 1000 1500
1511 Portuguese Miguel

500 Algonquin tribes inhabit land Cortereal explores Massachusetts 1607 James I assigns
stretching from Canada to Florida
land to Plymouth
1000 Viking explorer Leif Erikson is thought 1602 English explorer Bartholomew Gosnold Company
to have reached Massachusetts names Cape Cod and Martha’s Vineyard
Inhabitants of Boston watching the Battle of Bunker Hill (see p22)

The first Thanksgiving at Plymouth, Massachusetts, celebrated by the Pilgrim Fathers in 1621
The Pilgrim Fathers Two months later the 102 Pilgrims

In 1614 John Smith traveled to the arrived at Cape Cod. Before disembarking,
northeast and published his findings in they formulated the “Mayflower Compact,”
a book entitled A Description of New agreeing to govern themselves demo-
England. This land would become a haven cratically with “just and equal laws…for the
for people who were victims of religious general good of the colony.” The Pilgrims
persecution, especially Puritans, who did named their new home Plymouth and
not adhere to all the beliefs and rituals soon made friends with the natives.
of the Church of England. One group of On April 1, 1621, Governor John Carver
Puritan separatists had already left England and Chief Massasoit signed a peace treaty.
to seek greater freedom in The Netherlands, They celebrated the first Thanksgiving
but had faced economic that year sharing provisions
hardship there. Lured by with their native hosts.
Captain Smith’s reports, they
returned to England to seek Founding of Boston
a grant for land in the New Charles I assigned land
World. Joining other Puritans 40 miles (65 km) north
led by William Bradford, they of Plymouth colony, near
set out from Plymouth in the Charles River, to
two ships, the Mayflower the Massachusetts Bay
and the Speedwell. Quickly Company, a large group
discovering that the Speedwell of Puritans. In the spring of
was leaking, they returned to 1630 over 1,000 Puritans
Plymouth, crammed into the departed in 11 ships bound
Mayflower, and set sail again Meeting of John Winthrop with local for Massachusetts. Some
on September 16, 1620. native chief in around 1630 settled in Salem and other
1614 Captain John Smith 1636 Harvard University 1686 James II

explores the Northeast is founded appoints Sir
Pine-tree Edmund
1630 John Winthrop and 1652 First American coin shilling, the Andros as
Puritans settle in Boston produced in Boston first U.S. coin governor
1610 1630 1650 1670
1620 The Pilgrims 1621 Governor John 1640 First English-language 1660 Quaker Mary Dyer
settle in Plymouth Carver and Chief book printed in America hanged on Boston Common
Massasoit sign
peace treaty 1638 Anne Hutchinson banished 1684 Charles II nullifies the
from Boston for religious beliefs Massachusetts Bay Charter
1635 Boston Latin School opens
THE HISTORY OF BOSTON  21
communities along the Massachusetts Bay. Seeds of Rebellion

The vast majority, however, followed John The British had passed the Navigation
Winthrop, their newly appointed governor, Acts to encourage the colonists to trade
to the mouth of the Charles River. Across only with them, but when the colonists
the river lived a recluse, an Anglican refused to obey, Charles II withdrew the
clergyman, William Blackstone. Massachusetts Bay Charter in
He learned that disease was 1684, putting the colony under
rampant among the Puritans the control of the king. His
due to the scarcity of fresh successor James II appointed
drinking water, and invited Sir Edmund Andros as royal
them to move their governor. After James II lost
settlement over the river. power, the colonists arrested
Winthrop and his followers their governor and in 1689
were quick to accept. They established their own
first called this new land Mary Dyer with other condemned Quakers, government. But in 1691
Trimountain, but soon before being hanged in 1660 William and Mary granted
renamed it Boston after a new charter to the
the town in England they had left behind. Massachusetts Colony, combining the
In 1635 they established the Boston Latin Massachusetts Bay and Plymouth colonies
School, the first public school in the British and recognizing a bicameral legislature.
colonies. A year later the Puritans founded a Later, the British and French started a long
university, named subsequently after John series of battles over New World territory.
Harvard, who had bequeathed it his library. France finally ceded control of Canada and
Although the Puritans had come to the American West, but the cost of war
Massachusetts in pursuit of religious had taken its toll on the British, and the
freedom, they often proved intolerant of colonists were asked to pay their share in
others. Anne Hutchinson was driven out of taxes. The seeds of rebellion were sown.
Boston in 1638 for not conforming to the
Puritan tradition. Many Quakers were also
beaten, fined, or banished. The Quaker
preacher Mary Dyer was hanged for
religious unorthodoxy on June 1, 1660 on
Boston Common. In 1692 after several girls
in the town of Salem accused three women
of witchcraft, mass hysteria broke out
throughout Massachusetts, and many
innocents were tried, and hanged. No
one felt safe until Governor William Phips
put an end to the trials in 1693. Painting of the commercial port of Boston in about 1730
Execution for witchcraft

1691 William and Mary grant new at Salem in 1692 1763 France cedes control
charter to Massachusetts Colony of Canada and the West
1690 1710 1730 1750
1692 Women in Salem

accused of witchcraft 1754 French and Indian
War between the French
1689 Colonists oust Governor Andros and the British begins
Revolutionary Boston
It was in Boston, the most important city in the 13 British
colonies, that ideas for independence were nurtured and
the American Revolution born. The colonists’ main quarrel
with Britain lay in taxation. The Stamp Act of 1765, and the
later Townshend Acts, which placed duties on imports,
inflamed colonists because they had no vote. “No taxation
without representation” became a common cry. The
so-called “Sons of Liberty,” led by Samuel Adams,
demanded and received the repeal of the Stamp Act. The Boston Tea Party (1773)
However, attempts to enforce the Townshend Acts led to In protest at taxation, Boston
patriots boarded three British East
the Boston Massacre, a tragedy that signaled increasingly India Company ships and threw
poor relations between Britain and its colonies. their cargoes of tea into Boston
Harbor (see p77).
The Boston Massacre (1770) Old State House

At the time of the Townshend Acts, (see pp62–63)
British troops were sent to Boston to protect
customs commissioners. Bostonians often
scoffed at the soldiers and threw stones. On
March 5, 1770 the jeering got out of hand.
Shots were fired and five Americans fell.
Five Americans were

killed when British troops
shot into the crowd.
The Battle of Bunker Hill (1775)

In June 1775, militiamen from all over New England
traveled to Boston to wrest control of the city from
the British. The Americans lost the ensuing battle,
the bloodiest of the Revolution.
1765 British Parliament 1773 Tea Act gives British East India
passes the Stamp Act Company monopoly. Boston Tea Party
British
Revenue
stamp
1765 1770
1767 Townshend Acts

place duties on imports 1770 Five Americans killed
in Boston Massacre
1766 Repeal of the Stamp Act

Evacuation of Boston 1776

Following the Battle of Bunker Hill,
Boston remained under British
control. For almost a year American
troops lay siege to the city, until in
March 1776 George Washington
masterminded a strategy that finally
led the British to evacuate.
John Hancock
A key participant in the
Revolution, Hancock
was chosen as a delegate
of Massachusetts to
attend the first ever
Continental Con
gress, held in 1774.
British soldiers were

sent to protect customs
commissioners.
Declaration of Independence (1776)

Events surrounding the Battle of Bunker Hill and the
evacuation of Boston inspired insurrection throughout
the 13 colonies. This led, in July 1776, to the signing of
the Declaration of Independence. Freedom from Britain
finally came in 1781.
Paul Revere’s Ride

On April 18, 1775 the British planned
to march to Lexington to capture
Samuel Adams and John Hancock,
and then on to Concord to seize
arms. To signal the route of British
troops, sexton Robert Newman
hung lanterns in the tower of the
Old North Church (see p73) and, so
legend has it, Paul Revere undertook
his “midnight ride.” Revere’s ride is
immortalized in Longfellow’s 1863
verse book Tales of a Wayside Inn.
During the ensuing skirmish at
Lexington Green, eight American
militiamen were killed – the
first battle of the American Warning lights in the
Revolution had been fought. Old North Church
1774 Intolerable Acts 1776 Siege of Boston ends. 1781 General Cornwallis
passed; Boston Declaration of Independence adopted surrenders at Yorktown,
Harbor is closed by Continental Congress Virginia
1775 1780
1775 Midnight ride

of Paul Revere Grand Union,
America’s first 1783 U.S. and Britain
1777 U.S. victory at Battle of Saratoga national flag sign Treaty of Paris
is the turning point of the war
Athens of America both a museum and library, was first

With the end of the Revolutionary War, organized in 1807 “for the promotion of
Boston’s population began to grow and its literary and scientific learning.” Eminent
economy flourish. Its port boomed, and Bostonians (see pp32–33) at this time
trade, with China in particular, flourished. included the essayist Ralph Waldo Emerson,
Some Bostonians made their fortunes at who formed the Transcendental Club,
sea; others started profitable textile mills. naturalist Henry David Thoreau, novelist
A number of old Boston families – the Nathaniel Hawthorne, poet Henry
Cabots, the Lowells, the Lodges – Wadsworth Longfellow, whose
rose to great prominence boast epic poem made famous the
ing of their lineage, their wealth, midnight ride of Paul Revere
and their Yankee independence. (see p23), James Russell Lowell,
The United States elected not the first editor of the Atlantic
one but two members of the Monthly, and poet, diarist and
Adams family (both Boston educational reformer Oliver
residents) to the presidency: John Wendell Holmes (see p47) .
Adams (1797–1801) and his son Abigail Smith Adams The Boston Public Library,
John Quincy Adams (1825–1829). (1744–1818) the oldest free library in the
John Adams’ wife Abigail, one of the U.S., was founded in 1852.
nation’s most revered first ladies, made Initially most of Boston’s European settlers
an early call for women’s rights when she came from England, but from 1846 Boston
admonished her husband to “remember attracted thousands of immigrants driven
the Ladies,” for “we … will not hold out of Ireland by the potato famine.
ourselves bound by any law in which When the Irish first arrived they settled in
we have no voice, or representation.” overcrowded tenements along the city’s
Boston soon earned a reputation as waterfront and faced discrimination from
the intellectual capital of the new United the city’s residents, especially its social elite,
States. The Boston Athenaeum (see p51), the Boston Brahmins (see p47). Signs went
The Boston Athenaeum, first organized in 1807 but later housed in this building, which was designed in 1846
1787 Constitutional Convention held in Philadelphia
1789 Inauguration of George 1812 War with 1825 William Ellery Channing founds
Washington as president England American Unitarian Association
1800 1820
1796 John Adams elected

1786 Daniel as second president 1807 Boston Athenaeum is founded
Shay’s
rebellion George Washington (1732–99)
popular stopping-off points were the

Second African Meeting House, the
home of Lewis Hayden (a former
slave), and John J. Smith’s barbershop
on the corner of Howard and Bulfinch
Streets. When the first shots of the
Civil War were fired on Fort Sumter
on April 12, 1861, President Abraham
Lincoln immediately asked volunteers
Irish immigrants, who poured into mid 19th-century Boston to enlist. The state of Massachusetts
answered the call first, sending 1,500
up around the city with the words “No Irish men within four days. As soon as African
Need Apply.” But despite these obstacles, Americans were admitted to the Union
the Irish rose in stature and by the end of forces, black soldiers started training in
the 19th century would dominate Boston Boston. The Boston Brahmin, Colonel
politics and other areas of the city’s life. Robert Gould Shaw (see p32) led these men
(the 54th Regiment of the Massachusetts
The Abolition Movement Volunteer Infantry) in an assault on Fort
Some of America’s most vehement anti- Wagner, South Carolina – Shaw and 62
slavery sentiment originated in Boston. members of the regiment lost their lives.
William Lloyd Garrison (see p32) published The battle is still remembered for the
the first issue of The Liberator on January 1, role played by African Americans, and
1831 calling for the unconditional abolition a monument (see p49) to it on Boston
of slavery: “I will not equivocate … I will not Common was dedicated on May 31, 1897.
excuse … I will not retreat a single
inch … and I will be heard.” Not all
Bostonians sympathized with his
cause. To escape from angry mobs
he once had to seek safety for the
night in a Boston jail. Garrison and
other abolitionists (Charles Sumner,
Wendell Phillips, Frederick Douglass)
gave rousing antislavery speeches
in Faneuil Hall (see p65), and
accounts of their fiery oratory spread
across the United States. The city
also played an active role in the
underground railroad. Fugitive slaves
were assured a safe haven, and Attack on Fort Wagner by black soldiers of the 54th Massachusetts
1861 First shots at

Fort Sumter begin
1846 First influx of Irish 1852 Boston Public Civil War
immigrants into Boston Library founded
1840 1860
Mural in the Boston 1863 The 54th Massachusetts

1831 First issue of William Public Library leads assault on Fort Wagner
Lloyd Garrison’s abolitionist
newspaper, The Liberator 1865 General Robert E. Lee surrenders. The Union is
preserved. President Abraham Lincoln is assassinated
Growth and Destruction The Early 20th Century

The end of the Civil War in 1865 led to a Following World War I, changing political
decline in shipping, but the Industrial and cultural attitudes across
Revolution, specifically in cotton the U.S. increasingly left
and wool manufacturing, government clashing
enabled Boston to thrive violently with the
again and grow both in wishes of the people.
size and population. The Life in Boston was no
Back Bay had been filled exception. The Boston
and some of the neigh Police Strike of 1919
boring towns already marks one of the most
annexed. However, on dramatic chapters in the
November 9, 1872, Boston U.S. Labor movement. As
suffered a terrible setback as The Great Fire of Boston, many as 1,290 policemen filed
flames from a fire that started November 9, 1872 complaints over low wages,
in a dry goods store spread to unsanitary stations, and lack
warehouses downtown, destroying 765 of overtime compensation and sought
buildings. Newspaper headlines declared affiliation with the American Federation of
a loss of $250 million with “rich men Labor (A.F.L.). When the strike started, mobs
beggared in a day.” The city recovered smashed windows and looted stores. After
quickly, though, rebuilding and revitalizing a skirmish with state militia, in which two
textile and shoe manufacturing. were wounded and nine killed, A.F.L.
Public institutions also continued to president Samuel Gompers persuaded
flourish. The Museum of Fine Arts, Boston the police to return to work.
(see pp106–9) was opened in 1876, and the However, this was not just a time of
Boston Symphony Orchestra (see p160) conflict, but also one when popular culture
founded in 1881. The first subway in the
United States, the “T,” opened in 1897.
In Boston and the surrounding areas
educational establishments such as Harvard,
Radcliffe, the Massachusetts Institute of
Technology (MIT), the New England
Conservatory of Music, and Boston University
all played their part in making the city a
mecca for young students. The renowned
collector of art Isabella Stewart Gardner
(see p105), a rich, famously outspoken, and
wellconnected woman, opened her house
to the public on New Year’s Day, 1903. Matthew James Dailey, a captain during the Boston Police Strike
1897 The “T,” the U.S.’s

1872 The 1884 First Irish first subway, opens. 1905 “Honey Fitz” 1919 Boston Police
Great Fire mayor, Hugh elected mayor Strike results in riots
of Boston O’Brien, elected
1875 1900 1925
1876 Museum Museum

of Fine Arts, of Fine 1912
Boston opened Arts, Fenway 1914 James Michael Curley
Boston Park opens elected mayor for the first time
1881 Boston Symphony exhibit
Orchestra formed 1903 Isabella Stewart Gardner opens her house to the public
came to the fore. One way this manifested

itself was in spectator sports, which began
to enjoy unparalleled popularity. Fenway
Park in Boston, home to the Boston Red
Sox, had opened on April 20, 1912. The
Boston Red Sox won the World Series four
times before 1918. Supposedly cursed by
the sale of slugger Babe Ruth to the New
York Yankees, they did not win the World
Series again until 2004. U.S. President John F. Kennedy was born of Boston Irish stock
Prominent politicians from this time
included John F. Kennedy’s grandfather, City Renaissance
John F. Fitzgerald, or “Honey In the late 20th and early 21st centuries, the
Fitz,” as he was known, who face of central Boston was transformed.
was elected mayor in 1905. The Big Dig – a 20-year, $15-billion project
The flamboyant James to bury the I-93 highway – ended in 2005,
Curley, son of Irish providing new tunnels and bridges.
immigrants, who became A linear park, the Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy
mayor, congressman, and Greenway, replaced the surface highway.
governor, and spent time Adjacent land in South Boston was
Babe Ruth
(1895–1948) in an in jail for fraud, became a developed as the Seaport district, even
ad for chewing gum legend in his own lifetime. as a Boston economy based on finance,
education, biomedical research, and
Post-War Politics information technology soared.
The most famous Boston-born politician
was John F. Kennedy, great-grandson of an
Irish potato famine immigrant. In 1960 he
became the United States’ first Catholic, and
youngest elected, president. His brother,
Robert, served as attorney general and U.S.
senator for New York. Another brother,
Edward, became a U.S. senator for Massa-
chusetts and a leading progressive figure in
national politics. Michael Dukakis, the son
of Greek immigrants, was elected governor
in 1974, becoming the Democratic presi-
dential candidate in 1988. The first mayor of
Italian descent, Thomas Menino, presided
over Boston from 1993 through 2014. Boat tours on the Charles River, evidence that Boston is prospering
1988 Governor 1993 John F. 2006 Deval Patrick elected as first African-
Michael Dukakis Kennedy Library American governor of Massachusetts
1960 John F. becomes Democratic and Museum 2013 Terrorist bombings
Kennedy elected presidential candidate (see p104) opens during Boston Marathon
president kill 3 and injure many
1950 1975 2000 2025
2004 Red Sox 2015 Edward M. Kennedy

1962 Edward
Kennedy 1963 John
win World Series Institute for the U.S. Senate opens
elected to F. Kennedy
U.S. Senate assassinated Michael Dukakis, 2010 Museum of Fine Arts,
Democratic presidential Boston (see pp106–9) opens
candidate in1988 Art of the Americas wing
INTRODUCING BOSTON  29
BOSTON AT A GLANCE
Although it is a small, compact city, Boston Hill and Back Bay; examples of some of the
offers a wealth of attractions that draw best Federal architecture in the U.S., such as
visitors from all over the world. Indeed the the Massachusetts State House; and beau
range of attractions can exceed that of much tiful examples of late 19thcentury opulence
larger cities in the U.S. The sights in the center such as Trinity Church. The treasures of
and a little way out of Boston are covered in the Museum of Fine Arts and the Harvard
the Area by Area section of the book. There museums are also shown. A selection of
are historic neighborhoods, such as Beacon Boston’s best is featured below.
Boston’s Top Ten Attractions
Beacon Hill Old State House Massachusetts State House

See pp44–7 See pp62–3 See pp52–3
New England Aquarium

See pp78–9
Museum of Fine Arts

See pp106–9
Newbury Street
See p95
Trinity Church
See pp96–7
Old North Church Harvard University Boston Common

See p73 See pp112–16 See pp48–9
Federal-style rowhouses on Beacon Hill, one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Boston
Boston’s Best: Museums

The city of Boston’s Athenian self-image is manifested
in dozens of museums, galleries, and archives. Wealthy
19th-century patrons stocked art museums that have
now become world-class collections, the best example
being the Museum of Fine Arts. Likewise, Boston’s
leadership in scientific inquiry has created first-rate
natural history and science collections. Museums such
as the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum provide
insight into some of the city’s most compelling
and influential historical figures, while a strong
Museum of Science
architectural heritage means that some of the A favorite family destin-
museum buildings are also very beautiful. ation, this museum has
more than 700 interactive
exhibits, that explain the
laws of nature and the
science of computers.
Harvard University
Museums
These museums house a
diverse range of collections,
including archaeology and 0 meters 500
natural history. The Harvard 0 yards 500
Art Museums (right)
combine the holdings of
three museums, displaying
CH
European, Asian, American,
AR
and Near Eastern art.
LES
ST
ARL
IN G
EET
STR
TON
CON
BEA
ST
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AV E
TH
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CO MM
EET
STR
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BOY
BACK BAY AND

SOUTH END
E
AV
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TO
G
N
E
TI
U
N
EN
U
H
AV
Isabella Stewart
S
BU
Gardner Museum
M
LU
This Venetian-style
CO
palazzo stands as Isabella

Gardner left it – filled to ST
N
the brim with fine old TO
G
IN
masters and modern SH
A
paintings. Her taste in art W
was considered by many
to be impeccable.
Museum of Fine Arts

One of the largest museums in
North America, the MFA is famous for
its Greek, Roman, and Egyptian art,
and French Impressionist paintings.
B O S TO N AT A G L A N C E  31
Otis House Museum

Designed by Charles Bulfinch (see p55),
this house ushered in the Federal style of
architecture. It presents a snapshot of life
in the early days of the American Republic.
New England Aquarium

This aquarium displays a
huge array of creatures
from the world’s oceans.
The researchers at the
aquarium are also
involved in key
international fish
and whale conser
vation programs.
NORTH END
AND THE
WATERFRONT
C O M M E R CI A L S T
ST
ER
V
NO
HA
BEACON OLD BOSTON

HILL AND AND THE
FINANCIAL
AT L A N
WEST END
DISTRICT
IC A T
V
E
Institute of Contemporary Art

T
EE
STR
Boston’s first new major art

NT
museum building to open in nearly

MO
a century sits on a prime spot on

TRE
SU the South Boston waterfront.

M
M
CHINATOWN ER
ST
AND THE
THEATER DISTRICT
Nichols House
Museum
An elegant
Federalstyle
house on Beacon
Hill, this museum
ST
offers a glimpse
N
of the domestic
TO
NG
life of the
HI
19thcentury
AS
W
social elite.
John F. Kennedy Library

and Museum
The nation’s 35th president
is celebrated here – video
clips of the first president
to fully grasp the power
of the media make this a
compelling museum.
Eminent Bostonians
Founded as a refuge for religious idealists, Boston has
Boston Brahmins
always been obsessed with ideas and learning. Mark
Twain once observed that “In New York they ask what a In 1860 Oliver Wendell Holmes
(1809–94) dubbed Boston’s
man is worth. In Boston they ask, ‘What does he know?’”
prosperous merchant class
This insistence on the power of ideas has made Boston the “Boston Brahmins …
a magnet for thinkers and doers, and a hotbed of reform a harmless, inoffensive,
movements and social revolution. Education has always untitled aristocracy” (see p47).
been one of the city’s leading industries. Consequently, Any suggestion that the
Boston is disproportionately represented in the honor Brahmins were unaccom
plished, however, could not
roll of American intellectual life. Bostonians are generally be farther from the truth. Julia
considered to be liberal minded, and tend to occupy Ward Howe (1819–1910) was
the left flank of American political thought. a prominent abolitionist and
later a crusader for women’s
rights. She also penned the
Unionists’ Civil War marching
song, “The Battle Hymn of
the Republic.” Brahmin Colonel
Robert Gould Shaw (1837–63)
led the allBlack 54th
Massachusetts Regiment in
the Civil War, and Major Henry
Lee Higginson (1834–1919)
survived the war to found
the Boston Symphony
Orchestra in 1881.
Many famous authors were
also Brahmins, notably the
Lowell clan: James Russell
Lowell (1819–91) was the
Malcolm X (1925–65), one of Boston’s famous residents and head of the Nation of Islam leading literary critic of his
day, Amy Lowell (1874–1925)
19thcentury reformers, championed “free verse” and
Reformers, Rabble including Dorothea Dix (1802– founded Poetry magazine, and
Rousers and 87), who championed the Robert Lowell (1917–77) broke
Revolutionaries welfare of the mentally ill, and the barriers between formal
Even while Boston was still William Lloyd Garrison (1805– and informal verse in American
in its infancy, Bostonians 79), publisher of The Liberator, poetry. The Brahmins’ greatest
began to agitate to do things who was one of America’s chronicler was the noted
differently. Anne Hutchinson most strident voices calling for historian Samuel Eliot Morison
(1591–1643) was exiled for the abolition of slavery. (1887–1976).
heresy in 1638 (she moved Malcolm Little (1925–65) The Brahmins persist through
south to found Portsmouth, spent his adolescence in business partnerships, family
Rhode Island), while friend and Boston before converting to trusts, and intermarriage, as
fellow religious radical Mary Islam in prison and emerging highlighted in their ditty: “And
Dyer died on the Boston as the charismatic Black this is good old Boston, The
Common gallows for Muslim leader Malcolm X. home of the bean and the cod,
Quakerism in 1660 Like Malcolm X, Nguyen Where the Lowells talk to the
(see p21) . Spokesman Tat Thanh (1890–1969) Cabots, And the Cabots talk
for the Sons of spent part of his youth only to God.”
Liberty and parttime in Boston, working for a
brewer Samuel time in the restaurant
Adams (1722–1803) of the Omni Parker Inventors and
incited Boston to House Hotel (see p60). Entrepreneurs
revolution in the Traveling much of Innovation has always been a
“Boston Tea the world in his 20s, way of life in Boston. Donald
Party” (see p77). he was later to McKay’s (1810–80) East Boston
The city bubbled Abolitionist William Lloyd assume the name clipper ships revolutionized
over with Garrison (1805–79) Ho Chi Minh. international sea trade in the
physiology, but also

promulgated philosophical Authors
pragmatism, the concept that America’s first published author
the worth of an idea is based was Boston’s Anne Bradstreet
on its usefulness. His student, (1612–72). The first published
George Santayana (1863–1952) African American author was
blossomed as the 20th-century’s Phillis Wheatley (1753–84),
chief philosopher of aesthetics. born in Africa, enslaved, then
More pragmatically, the freed in Boston. Her 1778
Harvard economist John volume, Poems on Various
Edwin Land (1909–91), inventor of Kenneth Galbraith (1908–2006) Subjects, Religious and Moral,
Polaroid instant photography investigated the sources echoed Boston authors’ moral
of societal affluence and concerns. Henry Wadsworth
1850s. Working in his advocated social policies to Longfellow (1807–82) made his
Cambridge workshop, Elias put that affluence to work fortune from best-selling verse
Howe (1819–67) created the for the common good. epics such as Evangeline and
modern sewing machine, Hiawatha, but made his mark
radically altering both the translating Dante. Although
clothing trade and the shoe Political Leaders associated with nearby
industry. Alexander Graham Boston’s most infamous Concord, popular novelist
Bell (1847–1922) had offices in politician was the “rascal king” Louisa May Alcott (1832–88)
Cambridge and Boston, and James Michael Curley (1874– also lived on Beacon Hill and
later joined the faculty of 1958), who served many was active in Boston reform
Boston University. Edwin H. terms as mayor and U.S. movements. New York-born
Land (1909–91) experimented Congressman, winning his last Henry James (1843–1916)
with polarized light election from a jail cell. was educated at Harvard and
in his Harvard lab His life was to serve often returned to Boston from
before inventing as the model for his London home, spending a
Polaroid instant the novel The Last lifetime contrasting American
photography. The Hurrah. Boston also and European culture. Former
innovators Bolt, gave the country U.S. poet laureate Robert
Beranek, and four presidents: Pinsky (born 1940) teaches
Newman also John Adams (1735– at Boston University, as does
made academic 1826) and his son novelist Leslie Epstein (born
affiliations with the John F. Kennedy John Quincy Adams 1938). The popular Boston-
Massachusetts campaign button (1767–1848); the based fictional detective
Institute of Technology, tight-lipped Spenser was the creation of
and they also sent the world’s ex-governor Calvin Coolidge Robert Parker (1932–2010),
first electronic mail message (1872–1933), who rose to and when not hanging out
in the 1970s. Facebook was prominence by crushing with Clint Eastwood, suspense
launched from a dorm room the Boston police strike in novelist and screenwriter
at Harvard University in 2004. 1919; and John F. Kennedy, Dennis Lehane (born 1966)
infamously assassinated broods at Fort Point Channel.
in Dallas in 1963.
Thinkers Kennedy’s brothers
In addition to showing the were also prominent
world how to do things, on the national stage:
Bostonians have always been Robert F. Kennedy
adept at explaining why. In (1925–1968) served
his many essays and poems, as attorney general
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803– and then as senator,
82) first laid the philosophical when he, too, was
groundwork for an American assassinated. Edward M.
school of transcendental Kennedy (1932–2010)
religious thought. Meanwhile, served for 46 years in
his friend and fellow Harvard the U.S. Senate as a
graduate Henry David Thoreau leading advocate for
(1817–62) wrote many seminal social justice. His good
works of natural philosophy. friend, Thomas P. “Tip”
A professor at Harvard, William O’Neill (1912–94),
James (1842–1910) not only served as U.S. Speaker Author Louisa May Alcott (1832–88), part of
taught psychology and of the House. Boston’s reform movement
Boston’s Architecture
Buildings followed British styles through the 1790s, when the
first American architect of note, Charles Bulfinch, defined the
Federal style. In the 19th century, Bostonians evolved a local
Victorian style, which first embraced Greek Classicism, then
French and Italian styles. Two styles of the late 19th century,
Renaissance Revival and Richardsonian Romanesque,
remained influential through World War I. In the 20th century,
Harvard University and Massachusetts Institute of Technology
(MIT) attracted many leading modern and post-modern
architects, all of whom left their mark.
Renaissance Revival interior of the Boston

Boston Granite Public Library
The granite outcrops found
around Boston Harbor
provided stone for the city’s Renaissance Revival
waterfront development in Charles McKim’s 1887 design
the early 19th century. Techno for the Boston Public Library
logical advances had made it (see p98), conceived as a
possible to cut entire columns “palace of the people,”
Freestanding Federal-style Harrison from single blocks of granite. established Renaissance
Gray Otis House Freed from the constraints of Revival architecture as a
soft limestone or sandstone, favorite American style for
Alexander Parris and other monumental public structures.
Federal architects adopted granite as Evenly spaced windows
Charles Bulfinch and his a principal material for and arches, adorned
protégé Asher Benjamin markets and ware by inscriptions
adapted British Georgian houses, as can be and sculptural
styles to create Boston’s first seen for example details, define
signature architectural style. at Charlestown the style. Soaring,
Typical of this style are Navy Yard (see barrel vaulted
freestanding mansions and p117) and Quincy interiors are also
town houses, with symmetrical Market (see p66). featured. Boston’s
brick façades adorned by Although the Granite Greek Revival façade Renaissance
shuttered windows, and basic style is an of Quincy Market Revival structures
groundfloor windows set adaptation of make extensive
in recessed arches. Entrances Greek Revival, it also includes use of New England and
are often cut from granite modern innovations such Italian marbles, carved stucco
slabs, featuring gently fluted as iron tension rods and ceilings, and carved wood in
columns. The largest and laminated wooden ribs to staircases and walls. Many of
most elegant rooms of Federal support copper domes. the Italian artisans who were
homes are usually found brought over to execute this
on the second floor. work stayed in Boston, forming
Some of the grander exam an elite group within the
ples of Federal domestic Italian immigrant community
architecture, found mainly by around 1900.
on Beacon Hill, feature
ornamental ironwork and are
often crowned with octagonal Richardsonian
cupolas. Chestnut Street on Romanesque
Beacon Hill (see pp44–5) America is far too young to
represents the greatest con boast a true Romanesque style,
centration of Federalstyle row but Henry Hobson Richardson
houses in Boston. Individual effectively created one from
examples of the style include European inspirations and
the Harrison Gray Otis House American stone. By the 1870s,
(see p54) and the Hepzibah Distinctive, multicolored, square tower of the wealthy city of Boston
Swan Houses (see p47). Trinity Church demanded more elaborate
churches than the existing Art Deco tends also to make

sparsely designed “boxes great use of Greco-Roman
with a spire.” Gothic styles, geometric friezes and stylized,
however, were associated vegetable-inspired ornament.
with medieval Catholicism Some Financial District Art
and were unacceptable to Deco buildings also feature
the Protestant heirs of the Italianate interior detail of the Victorian bas-relief murals of historic
Puritans. Richardson’s churches Gibson House Museum and heroic themes. Back Bay
provided a pleasing alternative. was once the site of many Art
Often, the building’s main Street and Massachusetts Deco storefronts with stylized
components were massed Avenue reflect a more mature Parisian pilasters and grillwork,
around a central tower, as can synthesis: raised granite but only the former quarters
be seen in Boston’s most entrances, slate-shingled of Shreve, Crump & Low Inc.
important example of the style, mansard roofs, and dormer on Boylston Street (see p98)
Trinity Church (see pp96–7), and bay windows. Nowhere remain intact.
as well as in the First Baptist is the transition from early
Church (see p94). In sharp to late Victorian styles so
contrast to the Boston Granite evident than on the walk
style, which used many similar westward, from the center of
materials and sharp angles, Boston, along Commonwealth
Richardson used stones of Avenue (see p95).
contrasting colors and
rounded off virtually every
square edge. Art Deco
Most of Boston’s Art Deco
buildings are clustered around
Post Office Square in the Modernist interior of the Kresge Chapel,
Financial District, with the built in the 1950s
former Post Office (see p67)
and the Verizon Building (see
p67) being the finest examples. Modernism
Essentially tall buildings of The willing embrace of
light gray granite, they are Modernism at Boston and
Romanesque-style front portico of the constructed with vertical strips Cambridge colleges has
First Baptist Church and slit windows that elongate graced the Boston area with
their forms. Elaborate a wide range of outstanding
geometric steps and surface 20th-century buildings
Victorian ornament on the upper stories where simplicity of form is
Boston’s Victorian style largely help relieve their mass. Boston favored over ornament, and
eschews the pointed Gothic expressive lines grow
lines of English Victorian in out of function. When
favor of French Academic, Bauhaus director Walter
French Empire, and various Gropius fled the Nazis
Italianate influences. The for the safety of Harvard
variations are displayed in an University, he served as
almost chronological march a magnet for some of
of styles in the Back Bay and the mid-century’s great
South End (see pp90–101), designers and architects.
paralleling the decade-by- The range of styles in
decade creation of filled land Boston’s Modernist
in those neighborhoods in buildings is diverse: the
the second half of the 19th poetic sculptural grace
century. Earlier buildings of Eero Saarinen’s Kresge
tend to reflect their stylistic Auditorium and Chapel
influences more accurately; at MIT (see p111); Le
for example, the Italianate Corbusier’s Carpenter
Gibson House Museum (see Center for the Visual Arts
p94) on Beacon Street, which (see p113); and Josep
would have been among Lluis Sert’s International-
the first wave of Back Bay style Smith Campus
development. The later town The Verizon Building, overlooking Post Center, both near Harvard
houses of upper Newbury Office Square Yard (see pp112–13).
BOSTON THROUGH
THE YEAR
Perhaps more than in any other city in the lists favor fiction over more scholarly texts.
U.S., Boston’s cultural life tends to follow Though the cultural life of the city tends
the academic calendar, with the “year” to flourish from fall to spring, the summer
beginning when classes commence at its months do feature many of Boston’s major
many colleges and universities in September, carnivals, festivals, parades, and free outdoor
and winding down a little with the start concerts at the Hatch Shell (see p94). After
of the summer recess in May and June. In the students’ return to their studies in the
between is so-called “ice cream” season, fall, the busy performing arts season begins,
when the warm weather causes most with symphony concerts, theater, and ballet
activities to shift out of doors, and reading continuing into the following spring.
This annual parade also walks in the country, raises

commemorates the British funds for food banks.
evacuation of Boston during Duckling Day Parade
the Revolutionary War. (second Sun), Boston Common.
Parade retracing the route
April of the ducklings in Robert
Baseball (early Apr), Fenway McCloskey’s classic children’s
Park. Major league season starts storybook, Make Way
for Boston Red Sox. for Ducklings.
Annual Lantern Festival Arts First (late Apr–early May),
(Patriots Day Eve), Old North Cambridge. More than
Church. Commemorates 200 free performances of
hanging signal lanterns in the music, theater, and dance –
steeple to warn revolutionaries. all on Harvard campus.
Patriots Day Parade (third Mon), Hidden Gardens of Beacon
Springtime tulips in full bloom, from City Hall Plaza to Paul Hill (third Thu), Beacon Hill.
Public Garden Revere Mall, where the start Garden tours organized.
of Paul Revere’s Midnight Ride Lilac Sunday (mid-May), Arnold
is reenacted. Arboretum. More than 400
Spring Boston Marathon (third lilac bushes are in bloom.
When the weather warms, Mon), Hopkinton to Back Bay. Street Performers Festival
Boston bursts into bloom. America’s oldest marathon. (late May), Faneuil Hall
Thousands of tulips explode Marketplace. Street musicians,
in the Public Garden, and May jugglers, acrobats, and others
the magnolia trees of MayFair (early May), Harvard launch their season.
Commonwealth Avenue are Square. International street fair. Boston Pops (May–Jun),
sheathed in pink and white. Walk for Hunger (first Sun), Symphony Hall. Season features
Spring is a season of remem 20mile (32km) walk, one of light Classical repertory and
brance, with commemorations the oldest and largest pledge American popular music.
of events leading up to the
American Revolution. It also
marks the start of the season
for the Boston Red Sox.
March
Reenactment of Boston
Massacre (early Mar), Old State
House. Marks watershed event
that turned Bostonians against
their British rulers.
Boston Flower & Garden
Show (mid-Mar), various venues.
One of the oldest annual flower
exhibitions in the United States.
St. Patrick’s Day Parade
(mid-Mar), South Boston. Runners at the annual Boston Marathon, held in April
BOSTON THROUGH THE YEAR  37
Average Daily Hours of Sunshine

Sunshine Chart
Hours
Boston enjoys long and
10
light summer days from
8 June to August, with
July being the sunniest
6 month. Fall has more
sunshine than spring,
4 but while spring is mild,
fall becomes quite
2
chilly. Winter days are
0 shorter, but many are
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec still clear and bright.
Summer
When summer’s heat finally
arrives, Bostonians head
outdoors to relax on the grassy
banks of the Charles River, along
the harbor, and in the city’s
many parks. The Hatch Shell
on the Esplanade becomes
the scene of many free open-
air concerts. The grandest
celebration occurs on the
Fourth of July, with one of the
country’s greatest fireworks
displays, following an invariably Fourth of July fireworks lighting up the sky over the Charles River
rousing performance by the
Boston Pops Orchestra. parade and festival caps a Annual Festival Betances
week of celebrating diversity. (mid-Jul), South End. Annual
Bunker Hill Weekend (weekend Puerto Rican festival with
before Jun 17), Charlestown. music, dance, and food.
Costumed reenactments,
demonstrations, a parade, August
and guided tours at Bunker August Moon Festival (mid-
Hill Monument. Aug), Chinatown. Lion dance,
Dragon Boat Festival (mid- martial arts, Chinese opera.
Jun), Charles River. Traditional Dine Out Boston (late Mar
Asian dragon boat races. and late Aug), Boston and
Cambridge. Around 200
July restaurants offer low fixed-
Italian Feast Days price lunch and dinner menus.
(Jul–Aug), North End. Religious Boston Caribbean
Summer outdoor concert at Hatch Shell, processions with music Carnival (late Aug), Franklin
Charles River Esplanade and food take place almost Park. Extravagant costumes,
every weekend. music, food, and dancing.
June Boston Harborfest (week
Performing Arts Series of Jul 4). Features children’s
at the Hatch Shell (Jun–Sep), events, concerts, harbor
Hatch Shell, Esplanade. Free cruises, and a Chowder-
outdoor movies, and pop, fest on City Hall Plaza.
rock, and classical concerts. Boston Pops Annual
Cambridge River Festival Fourth of July Concert
(early Jun). Multicultural and Fireworks (Jul 4),
festival on the banks of the Esplanade. The largest of
Charles River. the free Boston Pops
Scooper Bowl (early Jun), City concerts in July.
Hall Plaza. One of the largest Bastille Day (Fri before
ice cream festivals in the U.S. Jul 14), Back Bay. Annual
Boston Pride (mid-Jun). New celebration sponsored by
England’s largest gay pride the French Cultural Center. July 4th parade, Government Center
Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart

This chart shows the average
°C °F minimum and maximum
30 Maximum temperature 86 temperatures for each month
Minimum temperature in Boston. The highest tem
20 68 peratures of the year are in
July and August, when it is
hot and humid. Winters are
10 50 cold, and while they can be
clear and bright, they are
0 32 also often stormy, resulting
–5 23 in windchill temperatures
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec well below freezing point.
Fall
After Labor Day, Boston’s
massive student community
returns. This time also sees
the start of seasons for the
performing arts and for basket
ball and hockey. The vivid colors
of New England’s deciduous
fall trees attract thousands of
people to Boston, on their way
to backcountry tours. Mid
November brings cold weather
and the beginning of the
holiday season.
September Famous fiery colors of New England’s fall foliage

Feast of Saints Cosma &
Damiano (second weekend), Boston Open Studios (Sep– Weekend Oct), Cambridge.
East Cambridge. Italian early Dec). Art communities in Rowing event featuring 1,400
festival with parade. Boston, including Fort Point boats and 11,000 athletes.
Cambridge Carnival (mid-Sep). and the South End, schedule Ellis Memorial Antiques
Ethnic cuisine, music, crafts, studio tours. Show (late Oct–early Nov),
and a colorful parade to various locations.
celebrate African and Caribbean October Boston Jewish Film
cultural heritage. Boston Symphony Orchestra Festival (late Oct–mid-Nov),
Berklee BeanTown Jazz Season (Oct–Apr). Orchestra contemporary films on
Festival (late Sep), South End. performs in historic Jewish themes, lectures,
This event features contemporary Symphony Hall. and discussions.
jazz, blues, and salsa. Basketball (Oct–Apr), TD
Boston Fashion Week (late Sep), Garden. NBA (National November
citywide. A variety of events Basketball Association) season Boston International
showcase Boston’s established begins for the Boston Celtics. Antiquarian Book Fair
couturiers and rising fashionistas. Hockey (Oct–Apr), TD Garden. (early to mid-Nov), Hynes
NHL (National Hockey Convention Center. One
League) season begins of oldest and largest
for the Boston Bruins. in the U.S.
Columbus Day Parade Ice Skating on Frog
(early Oct), parade Pond (mid-Nov–March),
alternates between Boston Common.
East Boston (even years) Ski and Snowboard Expo
and the North End. (mid-Nov), Seaport World Trade
Boston Ballet Season Center. Sports enthusiasts
(mid-Oct–May), Opera prepare for the winter season.
House. Professional Veterans Day Parade (Nov 11),
repertory company Downtown. Marching and high
gives performances. school bands, and veterans’
Head of the Charles groups honor all those who
Outdoor musical performance Regatta (second to last served in the armed forces.
BOSTON THROUGH THE YEAR  39
Average Monthly Precipitation Rainfall Chart

This chart shows the
MM Inches
average monthly rain
300 12
Rainfall (from baseline) and snowfall in Boston.
240 Precipitation levels are
Snow (from baseline) 9 fairly constant through-
180 out the year, at around
6 3–4 inches (8–10 cm) per
120 month, apart from dur-
3 ing winter when much
60
of this falls as snow,
0 0 which stays on the
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec ground until March.
February
Winter Beanpot Tournament
Tree-lighting ceremonies (mid-Feb), TD Garden. Annual
and decorated store windows college hockey tournament
help make Boston’s cityscape between Boston College, Boston
magical at Christmas. As University, Northeastern
the old year ends, the entire University, and Harvard
city joins in the downtown University (see pp112–13).
festivities that celebrate Longfellow Birthday
the joy of First Night, a world- Celebration, (late Feb),
wide institution launched Cambridge. Poetry readings
in Boston. When the frigid and wreath-laying at the
weather arrives in mid-January, illustrious poet’s grave at
Bostonians get geared up First Night ice sculpture Mt. Auburn Cemetery.
for a busy season of Harvard’s Hasty Pudding
performing arts and food city-wide New Year’s Eve Club Parades (variable),
and wine expositions. celebration, now an inter- Cambridge. Outrageous
national phenomenon. Harvard theatrical club
December presents Man and Woman
CraftBoston Holiday January of the Year Awards to
(early to mid-Dec), Boston Center Chinese New Year (late Hollywood celebrities after
for the Arts. Top-quality juried Jan to Mar depending on cross-dressing parades
crafts exhibition for artistic lunar calendar), through Harvard Square.
gift-buying. Chinatown. Celebration
Reenactment of the Boston includes parade, dragon
Tea Party (mid-Dec). Begins dances, and firecrackers. Public Holidays
at Old South Meeting House Boston Wine Expo (late New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
and proceeds to Boston Harbor, Jan–early Feb), World Trade
Martin Luther King Day
where this key historical event Center. Two arduous days of
is replayed. international wine tastings and (3rd Mon, Jan)
First Night (Dec 31). The original cooking demonstrations. Presidents Day (mid-Feb)
Evacuation Day (Mar 17)
(Boston only)
Patriots Day (3rd Mon, Apr)
(Middlesex and Suffolk
counties, including Boston
and Cambridge)
Memorial Day (end May)
Bunker Hill Day
(Jun 17) (Boston only)
Independence Day (Jul 4)
Labor Day (1st Mon, Sep)
Columbus Day (2nd Mon, Oct)
Veterans Day (Nov 11)
Thanksgiving (4th Thu, Nov)
Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Christmas lights on a snowy Boston Common in December
Aerial view of Boston and the waterfront
BOSTON
AREA BY AREA
Beacon Hill and West End 42–55

Old Boston and
the Financial District 56–67
North End and the Waterfront 68–79
Chinatown and
the Theater District 80–89
Back Bay and South End 90–101
Farther Afield 102–121
Three Guided Walks 122–129
BOSTON AREA BY AREA  43
BEACON HILL AND

WEST END
Beacon Hill was developed from pasture- late 19th century, while the north slope
land in the 1790s. The south slope, facing and West End degenerated. Urban renewal
Boston Common, became the main seat of in the 1950s and 1960s cleared away the
Boston wealth and power, while the north slums and coherent neighborhood of the
slope and the land rolling down to the West End, while gentrification of the north
mouth of the Charles River, known as the slope made even the most modest homes
West End, became populated by tradesmen, on Beacon Hill highly desirable, and
servants, and free blacks. South-slope this neighborhood one of Boston’s
Beacon Hill retained its cachet into the most picturesque.
Sights at a Glance
1 Charles Street
2 Louisburg Square
3 Mount Vernon Street
6 Beacon Street
Historic Buildings, Churches,
and Museums See Street Finder map 1
4 Nichols House Museum
5 Hepzibah Swan Houses Science Park
0 meters 250
8 Park Street Church MA 0 yards 250
RTH
0 Boston Athenaeum A R
ET
O AD
q Massachusetts State
RE
ST
House pp52–3
LO
er
W
EL
w Museum of African
L
v
LES
WEST
Ri
American History
ST
B LO S
RE
END
AR
SOM
ET
e Otis House Museum

STRE
ET
CH
CHARLESBANK
les
r Old West Church

T
CAR
PARK
REE
DINA
Char
LO
t Massachusetts General Hospital
S TA N I F ORD ST
’C O
BLOSSOM
y Museum of Science NE
N
N O R TH GROVE S T
LL W
and Science Park FR U IT ST AY
PARKMAN ST
Parks and Cemeteries
STREET
ANDERSON ST
C A M B R ID GE
7 Boston Common and LO N G F E L
LO W
ST
Charles/
Public Garden pp48–9 BRIDGE M.G.H. CAMBRIDGE STREET
STREET
SOUTH RUSSEL ST
GROVE STREET
G AR D EN
9 Old Granary Burying Ground

IRVING STREET
CHAR LES
TEM PL E STRE E T
W E S T CE D A R S T
RIDGEWAY LAN
HANCOCK S
JOY ST R EE T
PHILLIPS STREET
S TREET
OAD
BOW DO I N
REVERE STREET
T
STREET
D E R NE
NT R
M YR T LE ST R EE T
B E A C O NPINCKH ILL
NEY STREET
JOY
KME
CED
Restaurants pp142–3 T
VE R N O N S
AR
BAN
ST
1 75 Chestnut MOUNT
S TR E E T
WA L N U
LN
ST T
2 Anna’s Taqueria NON TREE
EM
S
VER EET
RIV
UT
STN
WA
M T. CHE ST R
E ST
T ST
PA
ER
3 Artú
Y
LIM N
RK
7•15 O
4 Beacon Hill Bistro B EA C
ST
ST
UT
STN
5 Bin 26 Enoteca CHE
ST
ST Park Street
ON
L BYR Frog
6 Cheers B E AV ER P ET
STRE Pond
7 Figs CON
CHA
BE A
8 Grotto BOSTON
RLE
9 Harvard Gardens COMMON

EET
PUBLIC
S
ARL
10 King and I
STR
STR
GARDEN
IN G
11 Lala Rokh
EET
TON
NT
12 No. 9 Park
MO
13 Panificio
STR
TRE
14 Scampo PARK Boylston

EET
SQUARE
15 The Paramount N ST R E E T
16 Tip Tap Room LSTO
BOY
Arlington
17 Toscano Restaurant
Bronze statue of George Washington in Boston’s Public Garden For keys to symbols see back flap
44  boston area by area
Street-by-Street: Beacon Hill

From the 1790s to the 1870s, the south slope of beacon
Hill was boston’s most sought-after neighborhood – its
wealthy elite decamped only when the more exclusive
back bay (see pp90–101) was built. Many of the district’s
houses were designed by Charles bulfinch (see p55) and
his disciples, and the south slope evolved as a textbook
example of Federal architecture. elevation and view were
all, and the finest homes are either on boston Common or
perched near the top of the hill. early developers abided
by a gentleman’s agreement to set houses back from the Cobbled street, once typical of Beacon Hill
street, but the economic depression of 1807–12 resulted
in row houses being built right out to the street.
e t
ey Stre
pinCKn
LouiS
Burg
Squa
2 Louisburg Square
The crowning glory re
of the Beacon Hill
district, this square was eet
developed in the 1830s. Str
n on
Today, it is still Boston’s er
t v
most desirable address. un
Mo
Ce
da
Charles Street Meeting

r
House was built in the

CH
early 19th century to

St
house a congregation
ar
re
of Baptists.
Le
et
eet
S
Str
Key ut
St
t n
eS
CH
re
Suggested route
et
Back
Bay and
South End
0 meters 50
1 . Charles Street
This elegant street is the main shopping area for Beacon Hill. 0 yards 50
Lined with upscale grocers and antique stores, it also has

some fine restaurants.
beacon hill and west end  45
beacon hill
and
west end
back bay
and
south end
locator Map
see street Finder map 1
4 . Nichols House Museum

This modest museum offers an insight into the life of Beacon
Hill resident Rose Nichols, who lived here from 1885 to 1960.
3 Mount Vernon Street

Described in the 19th
century as the “most
civilized street in
America,” this is where
the developers of
wa
Beacon Hill (the Mount

lNu
Vernon Proprietors)
chose to build their
t S
own homes.
tre
Sp
et
ru
Massachusetts
ce
State House
St
re
et
et
re
N St
o
ac
Be
Boston Common
5 Hepzibah Swan Houses 6 Beacon Street

Elegant in their simplicity, The finest houses on Beacon Hill
these three Bulfinch- were invariably built on Beacon
designed houses were Street. Elegant, Federal-style
wedding gifts for the mansions, some with ornate reliefs,
daughters of a wealthy overlook the city’s most beautiful
Beacon Hill proprietress. green space, Boston Common.
46  BOSTON AREA BY AREA
bow-fronted town houses sell

for a premium over comparable
homes elsewhere on Beacon
Hill. Even the on-street parking
spaces are deeded. The tra-
ditions of Christmas Eve carol
singing and candlelit windows
are said to have begun on
Louisburg Square. A statue
of Christopher Columbus,
presented by a wealthy Greek
merchant in 1850, stands
at its center.
3 Mount Vernon
Street
Map 1 B4.  Charles/MGH,
Park Street.
In the 1890s the novelist Henry

James (see p33) called Mount
Vernon Street “the most
civilized street in America,” and
it still retains that air of urbane
culture. Most of the developers
of Beacon Hill, who called
themselves the Mount Vernon
Proprietors, chose to build
Charles Street, lined with shops catering to the residents of Beacon Hill their private homes along
this street. Architect Charles
1 Charles Street situated at the top of Charles Bulfinch (see p55) envisioned
Map 1 B4.  Charles/MGH.
Street, between Revere and Beacon Hill as a district of large
Cambridge Streets. Charles freestanding mansions on
This street originally ran along Street was one of the birth- spacious landscaped grounds,
the bank of the Charles River, places of the antique trade in but building costs ultimately
although subsequent landfill the U.S. and now has more dictated much denser devel-
has removed it from the than a dozen antique dealers. opment. The sole remaining
riverbank by several hundred example of Bulfinch’s vision
feet. The main shopping and is the second Harrison Gray
dining area of the Beacon Hill 2 Louisburg Square Otis House, built in 1800 at
neighborhood, the curving Map 1 B4.  Charles/MGH,
No. 85. The Greek Revival row
line of Charles Street hugs the Park Street. houses next door (Nos. 59–83),
base of Beacon Hill, giving it a graciously set back from the
quaint, village-like air. Many Home to millionaire politicians, street by 30 ft (9 m), were
of the houses remain resi- best-selling authors, and built to replace the single
dential on the upper stories, corporate moguls, Louisburg mansion belonging to Otis’s
while street level and cellar Square is arguably chief development
levels were converted to Boston’s most partner, Jonathan
commercial uses long ago. prestigious address. Mason. The original
Though most of Charles Street Developed in the mansion was torn
dates from the 19th century, 1830s as a shared down after Mason’s
widening in the 1920s meant private preserve on death in 1836. The
that some of the houses on Beacon Hill, the three Bulfinch-
the west side acquired new square’s tiny patch of designed houses
façades. The Charles Street greenery surrounded at Nos. 55, 57, and
Meeting House, designed by by a high iron fence 59 Mount Vernon
Asher Benjamin (see p34) in sends a clear signal Street were built
1807, was built for a Baptist of the square’s by Mason for his
congregation that practiced continued exclu- daughters. No. 55
immersion in the then adjacent sivity. On the last was ultimately
river. It is now a commercial private square in passed on to the
building. Two groups of strik ing the city, the narrow Columbus Statue, Nichols family (see
Greek Revival row houses are Greek Revival Louisburg Square p47) in 1885.
BEACON HILL AND WEST END  47
6 Beacon Street
Oliver Wendell Holmes and the Boston Brahmins
Map 1 B4.  Park Street.
In 1860, Oliver Wendell Holmes (see p32) wrote that Boston’s
wealthy merchant class of the time constituted a Brahmin caste, Beacon Street is lined with
a “harmless, inoffensive, untitled aristocracy” with “their houses urban mansions facing Boston
by Bulfinch, their monopoly on Beacon Street, Common. The 1808 William
their ancestral portraits and Chinese por- Hickling Prescott House at
celains, humanitarianism, Unitarian faith No. 55, designed by Asher
in the march of the mind, Yankee Benjamin, offers tours of rooms
shrewdness, and New England decorated in Federal, Victorian,
exclusiveness.” So keenly did he skewer and Colonial Revival styles.
the social class that the term has The American Meteorological
persisted. In casual usage today, a Society occupies No. 45, which
Brahmin is someone with an old family was built as Harrison Gray Otis’s
name, whose finances derive largely last and finest house, with
from trust funds, and whose politics 11 bedrooms and an elliptical
blend conservatism with noblesse oblige room behind the front parlor
toward those less fortunate. Boston’s where the walls and doors are
Brahmins founded most of the hospitals, curved. The elite Somerset
performing arts bodies and museums of Oliver Wendell Holmes Club stands at Nos. 42–43
the greater metropolitan area. (1809–94) Beacon Street. In the 1920s to
1940s, Irish Catholic mayor
James Michael Curley would
hospitable, Nichols was, among lead election night victory
other things, a self-styled land- marches to the State House,
scape designer who traveled pausing at the Somerset to
extensively around the world taunt the Boston Brahmins
to write about gardens. within. The Parkman House
at No. 33 is now a city-owned
meeting center. It was the
5 Hepzibah Swan home of Dr. George Parkman,
Houses who was murdered by Harvard
13, 15 & 17 Chestnut St. Map 1 B4.
professor and fellow socialite
 Park Street. Closed to the public. Dr. John Webster in 1849.
Drawing room of the Bulfinch-designed Boston society was torn apart
Nichols House Museum The only woman who was when Webster was sentenced
ever a member of the Mount to be hanged.
4 Nichols House Vernon Proprietors (see p46),
Museum Mrs. Swan had these houses P William Hickling Prescott House
built by Bulfinch as wedding Open May–Sep: noon–4pm Wed &
55 Mount Vernon St. Map 1 B4. presents for her daughters Sat. & ^ 8
Tel (617) 227-6993.  Park Street. in 1806, 1807 and 1814.
Open Apr–Oct: 11am–4pm Tue–Sat;
Some of the most
Nov–Mar: 11am–4pm Thu–Sat. & ^
8 ∑ nicholshousemuseum.org
elegant and distin-
guished houses on
The Nichols House Museum Chestnut Street, they
was designed by Charles are backed by Bulfinch-
Bulfinch in 1804 and offers a designed stables that
rare glimpse into the tradition- face onto Mount
bound lifestyle of Beacon Hill. Vernon Street. The
Modernized in 1830 by the deeds restrict the
addition of a Greek Revival height of the stables
portico, the house is never- to 13 ft (4 m) so that
theless a superb example of her daughters would
Bulfinch’s domestic architec- still have a view over
ture. It also offers an insight Mount Vernon Street.
into the life of a true Beacon In 1863–65, No. 13
Hill character. Rose Standish was home to Dr.
Nichols moved into the house Samuel Gridley Howe,
aged 13 when her father pur- abolitionist and edu-
chased it in 1885. She left it as cational pioneer who,
a museum in her will in 1960. in 1833, founded the
A woman ahead of her time, first school for the Elegant Federal-style houses on Beacon
strong-willed and famously blind in the U.S. Street, overlooking Boston Common
7 Boston Common and Public Garden

Acquired by Boston in 1634 from first settler William
Blackstone, the 48-acre (19-ha) Boston Common served
for two centuries as common pasture, military drill ground,
and gallows site. British troops camped here during the
1775–76 military occupation. As Boston grew in the 19th
century, the Boston Common became a center for open-
air civic activity and remains so to this day. By contrast,
the 24-acre (10-ha) Public Garden is more formal. When
the Charles River mudflats were first filled in the 1830s, a
succession of landscape plans were plotted for the Public
The Public Garden, a popular green space
Garden before the city chose the English-style garden in the heart of the city
scheme of George F. Meacham in 1859. The lagoon
was added to the garden two years later.
C
H
A
R
LE
S
ST
R
EE
T
. George
Washington Statue
Cast by Thomas Ball from
bronze, with a solid
granite base, this is one
the finest memorial
statues in Boston. It was
dedicated in 1869.
0 metres 100
Lagoon Bridge
This miniature, ornamental bridge over the Public 0 yards 100
Garden lagoon was designed by William G. Preston in
1869 in a moment of whimsy. The lagoon it “spans”
was constructed in 1861.
. Shaw Memorial VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This relief immortalizes the
Civil War’s 54th regiment of
Massachusetts Infantry, the
Map 1 B4.
first free black regiment in
Tel (617) 426-3115.
the Union Army, and their ∑ swanboats.com
white colonel Robert Shaw. ∑ bostonusa.com
Open 24 hrs. Visitors’ Center:
139 Tremont St;
Open 8:30am–5pm Mon–Fri,
9am–5pm Sat & Sun. Times vary
in winter. Tel (617) 522-1966.
Swan Boats: Public Garden.
Open mid-Apr–mid-Sep:
10am–5pm daily. Times may
vary. &
Transport
 Park Street, Boylston Street,
Arlington.
Parkman Bandstand
This bandstand was built in 1912
to memorialize George F. Parkman,
who bequeathed $5 million for the care
of Boston Common and other parks
in the city.
KEY
1 Statue of Edward Everett Hale brood of ducklings, based on 8 Park Street subway
2 The Swan Boats, originally the classic children’s story by 9 Brewer Fountain was pur-
inspired by Wagner’s Lohengrin, Robert McCloskey. chased at the 1867 Paris Expo.
have been a feature of the Public 6 The Soldiers and Sailors 0 Visitors’ Center
Garden lagoon since 1877. Monument, erected in 1877, q Central Burying Ground
3 Statue of Reverend William features prominent Bostonians dates from 1756 and holds the
Ellery Channing from the time of the Civil War. remains of many British and
4 The Ether Monument 7 Blackstone Memorial Tablet American casualties from the
memorializes the first use of recalls the purchase of the Battle of Bunker Hill (see p22).
anaesthesia in 1846. common in 1634 and is cited The portraitist Gilbert Stuart
5 Make Way for Ducklings is as proof that it belongs to is also buried at this graveyard.
the sculpture of a duck and her the people. w The Flagstaff
and Britain were in 9 Old Granary

conflict over British Burying Ground
restrictions on trade
Tremont St. Map 1 C4.  Park Street.
and freedom of the
Open 9am–5pm daily.
seas, as well as the
U.S.’s ties with Named after the early colonial
Napoleonic France. grain storage facility that once
The U.S. militia, based stood on the adjacent site of
in Boston, stored Park Street Church, the Granary
its gunpowder in Burying Ground dates from
the church base- 1660. Buried here were three
ment as safekeeping important signatories to the
against bombard- Declaration of Independence
ment from the (see p23) – John Hancock,
British navy, hence Samuel Adams, and Robert
the nickname. Treat Paine, along with
Park Street Church Benjamin Franklin’s parents,
later became merchant-philanthropist Peter
famous throughout Faneuil, and some victims of the
the islands of the Boston Massacre.
Pacific, when in The orderly array of grave-
1819 the church stones, often featured in films
sent a number of and television shows set in
Congregational Boston, is the result of modern
missionaries to carry groundskeeping. Few stones,
the Gospel to Pacific if any, mark the actual burial
islanders from a site of the person memorialized.
base in the Hawaiian In fact, John Hancock may not
Islands. In 1829, be here at all. On the night he
William Lloyd was buried in 1793, grave
Park Street Church at the corner of Tremont and Park Garrison (1805–79), robbers cut off the hand with
Streets, near Boston Common a firebrand of the which he had signed his name
movement to abolish to the Declaration of Independ-
8 Park Street slavery (see p32), gave his first ence, and some scholars
Church abolition speech from the Park believe that the rest of the
Street pulpit, while in 1849 a body was later spirited away
1 Park St. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 523- speech called The War System during 19th-century construct-
3383.  Park Street. Open late Jun– of Nations was addressed to ion work. Although many
Aug: 9:30am–3pm Tue–Sat; Sep–late
the American Peace Society heroes of the Revolution are
Jun: by appointment. ^ 7
∑ parkstreet.org
by Senator Charles Sumner. still known to be buried here,
Much later, in 1893, the Paul Revere, one of Boston’s
Park Street Church’s 217-ft anthem America the Beautiful most famous sons, was nearly
(65-m) steeple has punctuated by Katharine Lee Bates denied the honor because the
the intersection of Park and debuted at a Sunday service. cemetery was technically full
Tremont Streets since its Today the church continues when he died in 1818. The city
dedication in 1810. Designed to be involved in religious, made an exception, and he
by English architect Peter political, cultural, and was able to join his comrades
Banner, who adapted a design humanitarian activities. in perpetuity.
by the earlier English architect
Christopher Wren, the church
was commissioned by
parishioners wanting to
establish a Congregational
church in the heart of Boston.
The church was, and still
remains, one of the city’s most
influential pulpits.
Contrary to popular belief,
the sermons of Park Street
ministers did not earn the
intersection the nickname of
“Brimstone Corner.” Rather, the
name came about during the
War of 1812 when the U.S. Old Granary Burying Ground, final resting place for Revolutionary heroes
reopened in fall 2002 w Museum of

after extensive reno African American
vations. Among the
Athenaeum’s major
History
holdings are the 46 Joy St. Map 1 C3. Tel (617) 725
personal library 0022.  Park Street. Open 10am–
that once belonged 4pm Mon–Sat. Closed public hols.
to George Washington & 8 ∑ afroammuseum.org
and the theological
library supplied Built from town house plans by
Stone frieze decoration on the 19th-century, Renaissance by King William III Asher Benjamin (see p34), using
Revival-style Athenaeum of England to the salvaged materials, the African
King’s Chapel Meeting House was dedicated
0 Boston (see p60). In its early years in 1806 and is the centerpiece
Athenaeum the Athenaeum was Boston’s of the museum. The U.S.’s
chief art museum; when the oldest black church building, it
10½ Beacon St. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) Museum of Fine Arts was was the political and religious
2270270.  Park Street. Open 9am– proposed, the Athenaeum center of Boston’s African
8pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5:30pm Fri,
graciously donated much of American society. Cato
9am–4pm Sat, noon–4pm Sun. 8
its art, including unfinished Gardner, a native African, raised
∑ bostonathenaeum.org
portraits of George and Martha $1,500 toward the eventual
Organized in 1807, the Washington purchased in 1831 $7,700 to build the church and
collection of the Boston from the widow of the painter is honored with an inscription
Athenaeum quickly became Gilbert Stuart. Nonmembers above the entrance. The
one of the country’s leading of the Athenaeum may visit interior is plain and simple but
private libraries. Sheep farmer only the first floor of the rang with the oratory of some
Edward Clarke Cabot won the building, an area that includes of the 19th century’s most fiery
1846 design competition to the art gallery (with changing abolitionists: from Sojourner
house the library, with plans exhibitions) and several Truth and Frederick Douglass
for a gray sandstone building reading rooms. to William Lloyd Garrison (see
based on Palladio’s Palazzo p32), who founded the New
da Porta Festa in Vicenza, a q Massachusetts England AntiSlavery Society
building Cabot knew from in 1832. The meeting house
a book in the Athenaeum’s State House basement was Boston’s first
collection. The building See pp52–3. school for African American
children until the adjacent
Abiel Smith School was built
Black Heritage Trail in 1831. When segregated
In the first U.S. census in 1790, education was barred in 1855,
Massachusetts was the only state however, the Smith School
to record no slaves. During the closed. The meeting house
19th century, Boston’s substantial became an Hasidic synagogue
free African American commu in the 1890s, as most of
nity lived principally on the Boston’s African American
north slope of Beacon Hill and community moved to Roxbury
in the adjacent West End. The and Dorchester. The synagogue
Black Heritage Trail links several closed in the 1960s, and in
Holmes Alley, once an escape route for key sites, ranging from the 1987 the building reopened as
slaves on the run African Meeting House to private the linchpin site on the Black
homes that are not open to Heritage Trail.
visitors. Among them are the 1797 George Middleton House
(Nos. 5–7 Pinckney Street), the oldest standing house built by
African Americans on Beacon Hill, and the Lewis and Harriet
Hayden House (No. 66 Phillips Street). The Haydens made their
home a haven for runaways in the “Underground Railroad”
of safe houses between the South and Canada. The walking
tour also leads through mews and alleys, like Holmes Alley
at the end of Smith Court, once used by fugitives to flee
professional slave catchers.
Free tours of the Black Heritage Trail are led by National Park
Service rangers – (617) 7425415 – from Memorial Day weekend
to Labor Day, 10am, noon, and 2pm Monday to Saturday,
leaving from the Shaw Memorial. Tours are at 2pm Mon–Sat
through late November and in May. Abiel Smith School, where Boston’s free
blacks received an education
q Massachusetts State House

the cornerstone of the Massachusetts state
House was laid on July 4, 1795, by samuel adams
and Paul revere. Completed on January 11, 1798,
the Charles bulfinch-designed center of state
government served as a model for the U.s.
Capitol building in Washington and as an
inspiration for many of the state capitols around The State House, from Boston Common
the country. Later additions were made, but
the original building remains the archetype
of american government buildings. Its
dome, sheathed in copper and gold, serves
as the zero mile marker for Massachusetts,
making it, as oliver Wendell Holmes (see
p47) remarked, “the hub of the universe.”
. House of Representatives
This elegant oval chamber was built for the
House of Representatives in 1895. The Sacred
Cod, which now hangs over the gallery, came
to the State House when it first opened in
1798, and it has since hung over any place
where the representatives have met.
KEY
1 The wings of the State windows. The windows illustrate

House, thought by many to sit the many varied state seals of
incongruously with the rest of Massachusetts: from its time as
the structure, were added in 1917. a colony through to modern
statehood.
2 The Great Hall is the latest
4 Administrative offices can
addition to the State House. Built
be found on the upper floors of
in 1990, it is lined with marble and
the building.
topped by a glass dome, and is
used for state functions. 5 The dome was sheathed in
copper in 1802 to prevent water
3 The main staircase is decorated leakage, and, in 1872, gilded
with beautiful stained-glass in 23-carat gold.
beacon hill and west end  53
Hall of Flags
Flags carried into battle by
ViSitorS’ CHeCkliSt
regiments from the state of
Massachusetts are housed
Beacon Hill. Map 1 C4.
here. They are displayed
tel (617) 7273676.
beneath a stainedglass
∑ sec.state.ma.us/trs
skylight depicting seals
open 10am–3:30pm Mon–Fri
of the original 13 colonies.
(reservations recommended).
78
Transport
 Park Street.
. Nurses Hall
This marble hall is lined with murals
depicting critical events leading up
to the American Revolution. The
name derives from the statue
of an army nurse here, erected
to honor all the nurses who
took part in the Civil War.
Entrance
Senate Chamber
Doric Hall Prior to 1895, this was the meeting
George Washington is chamber of the House of
among the historical Representatives. Situated directly
figures represented here. beneath the State House’s magnifi
The center doors of the hall cent dome, the chamber features a
are only ever opened for beautiful sunburst ceiling, also
a state governor at the designed by Charles Bulfinch.
end of his term or for a
visiting head of state.
in the muted
Williamsburg Colonial
style, subsequent
art history detective
work revealed that
Bostonians had much
more flamboyant taste
than, for example, the
wealthy Virginians.
Thus, the house has
been restored with
touches typical of such
upper-class aspirations.
The wallpaper in the
main entrance has a
border of scenes from
Pompeii and scores of
lithographs showing
views of European
cities. The colors
Flamboyantly decorated dining room of the Otis House Museum throughout the rest
of the house are bright,
e Otis House boarding house. Historic New and gilt detail flashes from
Museum England saved the building moldings and furniture.
in 1916 and established its Inquire about the Beacon
141 Cambridge St. Map 1 C3. Tel (617)
headquarters here. A gallery Hill and Haymarket walking
994-5820.  Charles/MGH, Govern-
in the house depicts the time tours that depart from Otis
ment Center. Open 11am–4:30pm
when the building was a House Museum.
Wed–Sun (Dec–Feb: Fri–Sun). & ^
8 ∑ historicnewengland.org boarding house in the 1950s.
Visitors who tour the Otis
Designed by Charles Bulfinch house, now restored to the r Old West Church
for Harrison Gray Otis, way it looked in around 1800,
131 Cambridge St. Map 1 C3. Tel (617)
co-developer of Beacon Hill are often surprised by the 227-5088.  Charles/ MGH, Bowdoin.
(see pp44–5) and Boston’s third bright, even gaudy, style of Open for Sunday worship. 5 11am
mayor, this 1796 town mansion decoration. Although the Sun. ^ 7 ∑ oldwestchurch.org
was built to serve the needs of rooms were initially decorated
a young man on the way up A wood-frame church built
in Federal Boston. Descended on this site in 1737 was used
from both British colonial as a barracks for British soldiers
administrators and Boston during the occupation of
revolutionary patriots, Otis Boston (see pp22–3) in the
took a practical view of local period just prior to the
government that paved the American Revolution. The
way for Boston’s development British later razed the original
as a powerhouse of international church in 1775, since they
trade and finance. Having suspected revolutionary
already made a fortune in the sympathizers of using the
land development of Beacon steeple to signal Continental
Hill, Otis commissioned this Army troops across the Charles
home as a showpiece, where River. Many of the church’s
he could entertain. It was the timbers were used to construct
first of three homes Bulfinch the African Meeting House (see
designed for him. p51). Asher Benjamin (see p34),
After Otis moved out, the a protégé of Charles Bulfinch,
house fell on hard times as designed the current red-brick
the West End neighborhood structure, erected in 1806.
around it absorbed successive The swag-ornamented clocks
waves of immigration, and on the sides of the tower are
tenements replaced single distinctive landmarks, while
family homes. By the 1830s inside there is a superb Fisk
the Otis house was serving as tracker-action pipe organ.
a ladies’ Turkish bath and later This organ is often played
became a patent medicine Red-brick façade of Asher Benjamin’s in classical organ concerts
shop before ending up as a Old West Church and in recordings.
t Massachusetts commission (1818).

General Hospital Alexander Parris,
who succeeded
Cambridge & Fruit Sts. Map 1 B2. Bulfinch as the
Tel (617) 726-8363.  Charles/MGH. city’s leading
Open 24 hrs daily. Ether Dome and
architect, was
Russell Museum: Open 9am–5pm
involved in
Mon–Fri (also mid-Apr–mid-Oct:
11am–5pm Sat). 7 8 self-
preparing the
guided tour brochure available drawings for this
at information desk. “modern” hospital
∑ massgeneral.org/vep built of local
Chelmsford granite. Charles Bulfinch’s Ether Dome, part of Massachusetts
The sprawling complex of The operating General Hospital
Massachusetts General theater, with
Hospital covers the original seating for observers, is set y Museum of
site of Harvard Medical School. beneath a skylit dome. In Science and
The main hospital building, 1846, the use of ether as a
the George R. White Memorial surgical general anesthetic
Science Park
Building, is a massive Art was first demonstrated here. Science Park. Map 1 B2. Tel (617) 723-
Deco structure from 1939, The Paul S. Russell, MD 2500.  Science Park. Open 9am–
largely hidden from Cambridge Museum of Medical History 5pm Mon–Thu & Sat–Sun (Jul–early
Street by other buildings. and Innovation explores the Sep: 9am–7pm), 9am–9pm Fri.
The eye-catching Bulfinch evolution of healthcare and Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7
9 ∑ mos.org
Pavilion and Ether Dome was medicine throughout the
Charles Bulfinch’s last Boston hospital’s history. The Museum of Science
straddles the Charles River atop
the inactive flood control dam
Charles Bulfinch that sits at the mouth of the
Born in 1763 in Boston, Charles Bulfinch (see p34) was among Charles River. The museum itself
America’s first professional architects and one of the most influential. was built in 1951, but Science
He rose to prominence with his 1795 plan for the Massachusetts Park has taken shape around
State House (see pp52–3), and went on to design many of the it since, virtually obscuring the
neighboring mansions on Beacon Hill. His own forays into real estate dam structure with theater
development cast him into bankruptcy, but he continued to enjoy and planetarium buildings and
the steady patronage of Boston’s wealthiest citizens for his elegant a massive parking garage.
yet boldly confident house designs. These patrons also helped him With more than 700
secure many public commissions, including the renovation of interactive exhibits covering
St. Stephen’s Church in the North End (see p74) and the enlargement natural history, medicine,
of Faneuil Hall (see p65). His application of local granite building astronomy, and the wonders
stone to the Massachusetts General Hospital surgical pavilion laid of the physical sciences, the
out principles later followed by Alexander Parris and others as they Science Museum is oriented to
forged the Boston Granite style of architecture, exemplified by families with children. In 1999
Quincy Market (see p66) and Charlestown Navy Yard (see p117). the museum absorbed the
Bulfinch left Boston in 1818 to assume direction of the construction holdings of Boston’s Computer
of the U.S. Capitol Building in Washington, DC. Museum, one of the first of its
kind in the world.
The Mugar Omni Theater
contains a five-story domed
IMAX® screen with multi-
dimensional sound system
with wraparound sound, and
shows mostly educational
films, usually with a natural
science theme. The Charles
Hayden Planetarium offers
daily shows about stars,
planets, and other celestial
phenomena.
An extensive array of
educational toys can be bought
from the museum’s shop, while
the food court has a number
19th-century view of Massachusetts State House from Boston Common of concessions catering to
children’s tastes.
OLD BOSTON AND THE

FINANCIAL DISTRICT
This is an area of Boston where old and new modernist-style City Hall and Government
sit one on top of the other. Some of its sights, Center, while to the east is the city’s bustling
situated in the older part of the district Financial District. This once formed part of
closest to Boston Common, predate the Boston’s harbor waterfront, a district built
American Revolution (see pp22–3). Much of on mercantile wealth. Today, the wharves
what can be seen today, though, was built and warehouses have been replaced by
more recently. The north of the district skyscrapers belonging to banks, insurance
is home to Boston’s late 20th-century, companies, and high-tech industries.
Sights at a Glance
Restaurants pp143–4
1 Anthem
0 Blackstone Block 2 The Black Rose
q Boston Public Market 3 Boloco
and Greenway 4 Bond Restaurant and Lounge
t Post Office Square 5 Chacarero
Historic Buildings 6 Durgin Park
and Churches 7 The Kinsale
North 8 Mooo...
1 Omni Parker House Station
2 King’s Chapel ET 9 The Oceanaire Seafood Room
RE
and Burying ST 10 Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
LO
AY 11 Sakura-Bana
W
Ground
C
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EW
FR
12 Sam LaGrassa’s
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3 Old City Hall S

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ST
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13 Silvertone
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4 Old Corner Bookstore C

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5 Old South Meeting

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S TA N I F O R D S T
House pp62–3
BL
7 Center Plaza
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See Street Finder maps 1 & 2 EE LA
T AT
The iconic Old State House in Boston’s Financial District For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Colonial Boston

an important part of boston’s Freedom trail (see
pp126–9) runs through this historic core of the city,
the site of which predates american Independence.
naturally, the area is now dominated by 19th-
and 20th-century development, but glimpses of
a colonial past are prevalent here and there in the
old state House, King’s Chapel and its adjacent
burying ground, and the old south Meeting House.
newer buildings of interest include the omni Irish Famine Memorial,
Parker House, as well as the towering skyscrapers Washington Street
of boston’s financial district, located on the
northwest edges of this area.
Government
2 . King’s Chapel and
Center
Burying Ground
A church has stood here
since 1688, though the
current building dates
from 1749. The adjacent
cemetery is the resting
place of some of
the most important
figures in U.S. history.
SC
HO
Ol
St
re
et
et
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St
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1 Omni Parker House

This hotel (see p135) first opened its
doors in 1855, then underwent many
renovations. Famed for its opulence,
in the 19th century the hotel also
gained a reputation as a meeting
place for Boston intellectuals. The
current building was erected in 1927.
0 metres 50
50
3 Old City Hall 0 yards
This building served
as Boston’s City Hall from 1865
to 1969. Today it is converted
into a steak house.
old boston and the financial district  59
6 . Old State House north end

and the
Once the seat of the waterFront
British colonial old
boSton
government, the Old and the
Financial
State House is now diStrict
a museum nestling
beacon hill
among the skyscrapers and
of the district. weSt end
Locator Map
New England
Aquarium
et
4 Old Corner Bookstore

re
St
Dating back to 1718, this

building boasts a rich
n
tO
literary heritage as a
g
famous literary gathering

in
SH
place, a bookstore and a

a
publishing company.
w
d e v O n S H i r e
Mi
LK
St
re
et
S t r e e t
arCH Street
5 . Old South
Meeting House
Built in 1729, this church later
became a focal point for
protest during the run-up to
the American Revolution.
Today, visitors can hear
reenactments of the debates
that once raged here.
Key
Suggested route
Downtown Crossing
1 Omni Parker
House
60 School St. Map 1 C4.
Tel (617) 227-8600.  Park Street,
State, Government Center.
∑ omnihotels.com
Harvey D. Parker, raised on a farm

in Maine, became so successful
as the proprietor of his Boston
restaurant that he achieved his
ambition of expanding the
property into a first-class, grand
hotel. His Parker House opened
in 1855, with a façade clad in
white marble, standing five
stories high, and featuring the
first passenger elevator ever
seen in Boston. It underwent
several, rapid transformations Simply decorated, pure white interior of King’s Chapel on Tremont Street
during its early years, with
additions made to the main many claims to fame are its 2 King’s Chapel and
structure in the 1860s and a Boston Cream Pie, which was Burying Ground
10-story, French chateau-style first created here, and the word
annex completed later that “scrod,” a uniquely Bostonian 58 Tremont St. Map 1 C4.
century. The building saw term for the day’s freshest Tel (617) 523-1749.  Park Street,
State, Government Center. Open
many successive transform- seafood, still in common usage.
10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1:30–5pm Sun;
ations, and its latest 14-story Two former Parker House
call for off-season opening hours.
incarnation has stood across employees later became Music Recitals: 12:15pm Tue.
from King’s Chapel on School recognized for quite different 5 11am Sun, 6pm Wed.
Street since 1927. careers. Vietnamese revolu- ∑ kings-chapel.org
This hotel attained an instant tionary leader Ho Chi Minh
reputation for luxurious accom- worked in the hotel’s kitchens British crown officials were
modations and fine, even lavish, around 1915, while black among those who attended
dining, typified by 11-course activist Malcolm X was a Anglican services at the first
menus prepared by a French busboy in Parker’s Restaurant chapel on this site, which
chef. Among Parker House’s in the 1940s. was built in 1688. When
New England’s governor
decided that a larger church
Parker House Guests was needed, the present
Boston’s reputation as the “Athens granite edifice – on which
of America” was widely work begun in 1749 – was
acknowledged when members of constructed around the
a distinguished social club began original wooden chapel,
meeting for lengthy dinners and which was then dismantled
lively intellectual exchanges in and heaved out through the
1857. Their get-togethers took windows of its replacement.
place on the last Saturday of every After the Revolution, the
month at Harvey Parker’s fancy congregation’s religious
hotel. Regular participants allegiance switched from
included New England’s literary Anglican to Unitarian.
elite (see pp32–3): Henry The sanctuary’s raised pulpit –
Wadsworth Longfellow, Ralph
dating from 1717 and shaped
Waldo Emerson, Nathaniel
John Wilkes Booth, infamous Parker like a wine glass – is one of the
Hawthorne, and Henry David
Thoreau, to name a few. Charles
House guest oldest in the United States.
Dickens participated while staying High ceilings, open arches,
at the Parker House during his American speaking tours, and used and clear glass windows
his sitting-room mirror to rehearse the public readings he gave at enhance the interior’s sense
Tremont Temple next door. The mirror now hangs on a mezzanine of spaciousness and light.
wall. In 1865, actor John Wilkes Booth, in town to see his brother, a The bell inside the King’s
fellow thespian, stayed at the hotel and took target practice at a Chapel is the largest ever
nearby shooting gallery. Ten days later, at Ford’s Theatre in cast by Paul Revere (see p23).
Washington, he pulled a pistol and shot Abraham Lincoln. The adjacent cemetery is
the oldest in Boston.
OLD BOSTON AND THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT  61
3 Old City Hall with carving out the first

45 School St. Map 2 D4.  Park
distinctively American
Street, State, Government Center. literature. The earliest
editions of the erudite
A fine example of French Second Atlantic Monthly peri-
Empire architectural gaudiness, odical were also printed
this was Boston’s City Hall here under editor James
from 1865 to 1969 – it was Russell Lowell, before
superseded by the rakishly he handed the reins
modern New City Hall structure over to William Dean
at nearby Government Center Howells. Julia Ward
(see p64). The renovated 19th- Howe’s rousing tribute Historic image of the Old Corner Bookstore, the hub of
century building now features to American Civil War American literature
a steak house. bravado, The Battle Hymn
Previous occupants have of the Republic, first appeared entitled Voices of Protest relive
included such flamboyant in the Atlantic’s February 1862 those raucous days as well
mayors as Honey “Fitz” Fitzgerald issue. Although no publishing as more recent occurrences
(see p27) and James Michael activities take place here, the in the 20th century. The
Curley. Statues here memorialize Old Corner Bookstore remains Meeting House offers a series
Josiah Quincy, Boston’s second a touchstone of American of lectures covering a wide
mayor and after whom Quincy literary history. range of New England topics
Market is named, as well as and also holds chamber
Benjamin Franklin, who was music concerts and other
born on nearby Milk Street. 5 Old South musical performances.
Meeting House There is a shop downstairs
310 Washington St. Map 2 D4.
containing a broad selection
Tel (617) 482-6439.  Park Street, of merchandise, which includes
State, Government Center. Open Apr– the ubiquitous tins of “Boston
Oct: 9:30am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: Tea Party” tea.
10am–4pm daily. & ^ 7 9 Directly across Washington
∑ oldsouthmeetinghouse.org Street, sculptor Robert Shure’s
memorial to the 1845–49 Irish
Built in 1729 for Puritan Potato Famine was added to
religious services, this edifice, the small plaza here in 1998.
with a tall octagonal steeple,
had colonial Boston’s biggest
capacity for town meetings –
a fact capitalized upon by a
group of rebellious rabble-
19th-century French-style façade of rousers calling themselves
Boston’s Old City Hall the Sons of Liberty (see p22).
Their outbursts against British
taxation and other royal annoy-
4 Old Corner ances drew increasingly large
Bookstore and vociferous crowds to the
pews and upstairs galleries.
1 School St. Map 2 D4.  Park Street,
State, Government Center. During a candlelit protest
rally on December 16, 1773,
A dormered gambrel roof fiery speechmaker Samuel
crowns this brick landmark, Adams flashed the signal that
which opened as Thomas led to the Boston Tea Party (see
Crease’s apothecary shop in p77) down at Griffin’s Wharf
1718 and was reestablished as several hours later. The British
the Old Corner Bookstore in retaliated by turning Old South
1829. Moving in 16 years later, into an officers’ tavern and
the Ticknor & Fields publishing stable for General John
company became a gathering Burgoyne’s 17th Lighthorse
place for a notable roster of Regiment of Dragoons. In
authors: Emerson, Hawthorne, 1877, the budding Historic
Longfellow, Thoreau, early Preservation Movement
feminist writer Margaret Fuller, saved the building from
and Uncle Tom’s Cabin novelist destruction and created a
Harriet Beecher Stowe. The museum. Displays, exhibits, Old South Meeting House, in stark contrast
firm is often credited and a multimedia presentation to the modern city
6 Old State House

Dwarfed by the towers of the Financial
District, this was the seat of British colonial
government between 1713 and 1776. The
royal lion and unicorn still decorate each
corner of the eastern façade. After inde
pendence, the Massachusetts legislature
took possession of the building, and it has
had many uses since, including produce
market, merchants’ exchange, Masonic
lodge, and Boston City Hall. Its wine cellars
Old State House amid the skyscrapers
now function as a downtown subway of the Financial District
station. The Old State House houses two
floors of Bostonian Society memorabilia
and a sound and light show about the
Boston Massacre (see p22).
West Façade
A Latin inscription, relating
to the first Massachusetts
Bay colony, runs around
the outside of this crest. The
relief in the center depicts a
local Native American.
KEY
1 Keayne Hall is named after

Robert Keayne who, in 1658, gave
£300 to the city so that the Town Entrance
House, predating the Old State
House, could be built. Exhibits in
the room depict events from
the Revolution.
2 A gold sculpture of an eagle,
symbol of America, can be seen
on the west façade.
3 The tower is a classic example
of Colonial style. In 18th-century
paintings and engravings it can
be seen clearly above the . Central Staircase
Boston skyline. A fine example of
4 The Declaration of 19th-century workmanship,
Independence was read from this the central spiral staircase
balcony in 1776. In the 1830s, when has two beautifully crafted
the building was City Hall, the bal- wooden handrails. It is one
cony was enlarged to two tiers. of the few such staircases
still in existence in the U.S.
Site of the Boston Massacre
A brass and stone marker below the balcony Practical Information
on the eastern façade of the Old State Washington & State Sts.
House indicates the site of the Boston Map 2 D4.
Massacre (see pp22–3). After the Boston Tel (617) 720-1713.
Tea Party (see p77), this was one of the ∑ bostonhistory.org
most inflammatory events leading up Open 9am–5pm daily (to 6pm
to the American Revolution. On March 5, late May–early Sep). Closed Jan 1,
1770, an unruly mob of colonists taunted Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^ 8
Marker on the site of British guardsmen with insults, rocks, and 7=
the Boston Massacre snowballs. The soldiers opened fire, killing
Transport
five colonists. A number of articles relating
 State.
to the Boston Massacre are exhibited inside the Old State House,
including a musket found near the site and a coroner’s report
detailing the incident.
British Unicorn and Lion

A royal symbol of Britain, the
original lion and unicorn were
pulled down when news of the
Declaration of Independence
reached Boston in 1776.
. East Façade
This façade has seen many
changes. An earlier clock from the
1820s was removed in 1957 and
replaced with an 18th-century
replica of the sundial that once
hung here. The clock has now
been reinstated.
Council Chamber
Once the chambers for
the royal governors, and
from 1780 chambers for the first
governor of Massachusetts (John Hancock),
this room has seen many key events. Among
them were numerous impassioned speeches
made by Boston patriots.
7 Center Plaza piazzas. Architects I.M. Pei &

Cambridge St. Map 1 C3.
Partners re-created some of
 Government Center. this feeling by surrounding
Boston’s new City Hall with a
Downtown’s old, irregular vast terraced plaza covering
street pattern has given rise 56 acres (23 ha), paved with
to some unusual buildings, 1,800,000 bricks. Its spacious-
including the Center Plaza, ness makes it an ideal venue
which was designed in the for events such as skateboard
mid-1960s by Welton Beckett contests, political and sports
& Associates. It was designed rallies, food fairs, patriotic
specifically to follow the long military marches, and concerts.
curve of the existing Cambridge A remnant of old Boston
Street, and the low-slung office hangs from the Sears Block
complex is often referred to at City Hall Plaza’s Court
as a “skyscraper laid sideways.” Street perimeter. This gilded,
Shops and restaurants run 227-gallon Steaming Tea Kettle
at street level along Center Old-fashioned flower stall on the sidewalk was made for the Oriental
Plaza’s sidewalk arcade, on outside Center Plaza Tea Company by a firm of
the Government Center side, coppersmiths in 1873. Near
while the plaza behind incor- 9 Government New Sudbury Street, the
porates some much older city Center John F. Kennedy Federal Office
center buildings. Building features two pieces
Cambridge, Court, New Sudbury & of abstract art: Dmitry Hadzi’s
Congress Sts. Map 2 D3. 15-ft (4.5-m) high Thermopylae
 Government Center.
sculpture, and Robert
This city center development Motherwell’s New England
was built on the site of what Elegy, a mural recalling the
was once Scollay Square, assassination of President
demolished as part of the fad Kennedy in Dallas in 1963.
for local urban renewal that
began in the early 1960s. Some
viewed the development as 0 Blackstone Block
controversial; others did not
Union, Hanover, North & Blackstone
lament what was essentially
Sts. Map 2 D3.  Government
Curved, Modernist structure of Center a disreputable cluster of saloons, Center, Haymarket.
Plaza, on Cambridge Street burlesque theaters, tattoo
parlors, and scruffy hotels. Cobblestones pave Boston’s
The overall master plan for only surviving web of
8 Boston City Hall Government Center was 17th-century lanes and alley-
City Hall Plaza. Map 2 D3. Tel (617)
inspired by the alfresco vitality ways, a remnant of the
635-4000.  Government Center. and spaciousness of Italian city’s oldest neighborhood.
Open 8:30am–5pm Mon–Fri. 7
∑ ci.boston.ma.us
The firm of architects

Kallmann, McKinnell & Knowles
won a nationwide design
competition for their striking
city hall, a seemingly top-
heavy, cantilevered, Modernist
building. Completed in 1968,
the concrete-and-brick City
Hall combines the offices and
services of municipal govern-
ment, with ample space for
holiday-season concerts,
school band and glee-club
performances, and community
art exhibits. An outdoor stage
on City Hall’s north side is
often the venue for evening
rock and pop concerts during
the summer months. Boston City Hall and Government Center, one of Boston’s main focal points
Benjamin Franklin grew up

near Union and Hanover
streets, where his father
owned a candleworks. Prior to
landfill programs, the block
was close to the water’s edge,
and streets still bear names
such as Marsh Lane, Creek
Square, and Salt Lane.
The oldest surviving building
dates from 1714; the Duke of
Chartres, later to be crowned
France’s King Louis Philippe,
lived here in 1798 and gave
French lessons to support
himself while waiting for funds.
Since 1826, the building has Liberty and Union, Now and Forever by George Healy, Faneuil Hall
housed the Union Oyster
House (see p143), renowned w Faneuil Hall hall as a platform to suggest
for its original mahogany Dock Sq. Map 2 D3.  Government
that the American colonies
and soapstone raw bar, its Center, Haymarket, State. Great Hall: should unite against British
political clientele, and, of Open 9am–5pm daily (may close oppression and fight to
course, its oysters. for special events). 7 8 9 establish their independence
Across Union Street is the ∑ nps.gov/bost (see pp22–3); hence the
New England Holocaust building’s nickname “Cradle
Memorial, dedicated in 1995 A gift to Boston from the of Liberty” and the bold
to the Jewish victims of wealthy merchant Peter posture of the statue of
World War II. It is designed Faneuil in 1742, this Georgian, Samuel Adams at the front
as a sculpture that visitors brick landmark has always of the building.
can walk through – a surreal, functioned simultaneously Toward the end of the 18th
justly disquieting experience. as a public market and town century it became apparent
meeting place. Master tinsmith that the existing Faneuil Hall
Shem Drowne modeled could no longer house the
q Boston Public the building’s grasshopper capacity crowds that it regularly
Market & Greenway weathervane after the one attracted. The commission to
on top of the Royal Exchange expand the building was under
100 Hanover St. Map 2 D3. in the City of London, England. taken by Charles Bulfinch (see
 Haymarket. Open 8am–8pm
Revolutionary gatherings p55), who completed the work
daily (winter: Wed–Sun). 7
packed the hall, and as early as from 1805 to 1806. The building
∑ bostonpublicmarket.org
1763 Samuel Adams used the then remained unchanged until
This indoor public 1898, when it was expanded
market features about still farther according to long
40 regional growers and standing Bulfinch stipulations.
producers, grabandgo Among the paintings
dining options, and a upstairs in the Neoclassical
demonstration kitchen. Great Hall is George Healy’s
It also sponsors seasonal enormous canvas, Liberty
midweek farmers’ and Union, Now and Forever,
markets on adjacent showing Massachusetts
Blackstone Plaza, facing Senator Daniel Webster in
the Rose Fitzgerald full oratorical passion. The
Greenway linear park, uppermost floor contains the
and at Dewey Square headquarters and armory of
on the Greenway, the Ancient and Honorable
opposite South Station. Artillery Company, chartered
The Greenway, which in 1638 for defense of the
replaced the elevated Massachusetts Bay Colony
highway buried by and an occupant of Faneuil
the Big Dig, contains Hall since 1746. Displays
walkways, fountains, include weapons, com
pools, plazas, and even mendations, and medals.
a children’s carousel. It is Faneuil Hall also houses
a favorite location for The Union Oyster House, one of Boston’s most famous the visitor center of Boston
midday food trucks. restaurants, Blackstone Block National Historical Park.
anachronistic tower rising

495 ft (150 m), which means
that for the best part of the
20th century, the Custom
House was Boston’s only
bona fide skyscraper. Four
sculpted eagles and a four-
sided illuminated clock add
decorative flourishes. The public
has free access to a small
museum of maritime history in
the 19th-century rotunda. It
displays objects on loan from
the Peabody Museum in Salem,
including maritime paintings,
nautical instruments, items that
Gallery of the Greek Revival main dome in Quincy Market’s central hall depict Boston’s trade with
China, and several pieces of
e Quincy Market 1825, was planned as an decorative art. The observatory,
Between Chatham & Clinton Sts.
extension to the first Faneuil which offers panoramic views,
Map 2 D3. Tel (617) 523-1300. Hall Markets, which had is also open to the public. The
 Government Center, State. Open become overstretched by rest of the building, occupied
10am–9pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun Boston’s rapid development. by a Marriott hotel and
(restaurants and bars open later). 7 Originally called the New timeshare apartments, is
∑ faneuilhallmarketplace.com Faneuil Hall Market, the building not open to the public.
came to be known as Quincy
This popular shopping and Market after the mayor, Josiah
dining complex attracts in the Quincy, whose original vision
region of 14 million people was responsible for the new
every year, and was developed market’s creation. The façade’s
from the buildings of the former four Doric columns were, at the
Faneuil Hall produce and meat time of construction, the largest
market, or Quincy Market. single pieces of granite ever to
These buildings had fallen into be quarried in the U.S. The 535-
disrepair before they underwent ft (163-m) long colonnaded hall
a widely acclaimed restoration is now filled with fast-food stalls
by the architects Benjamin and a large seating area, located
Thompson & Associates in the in the spectacular Rotunda.
1970s. The imposing center- Completing the ensemble are
piece, a granite Greek Revival twin North and South Market Glass fountain on the Pearl Street
structure (see p34) dating from buildings – these individual side of Post Office Square
warehouses have been refur-
bished to accommodate t Post Office Square
boutiques, restaurants, pubs, Between Congress & Pearl Sts.
stores, and upstairs offices. Map 2 D4.  State, Aquarium.
This beautifully landscaped

r Custom House park, a small island of green
3 McKinley Square. Map 2 E3. Tel (617)
situated amid the soaring
310-6300.  Aquarium. Museum: skyscrapers of the financial
Open 8am–9pm daily. Tower: Open district, replaced an ugly
2pm and 6pm Sat–Thu. & concrete garage that once
∑ marriott.com stood here – it was demolished
and rebuilt as an underground
Before landfill altered parking facility in 1990. Vines
downtown topography, climb a 143-ft (44-m) long
early Boston’s Custom House trellis along one side of the
perched at the water’s edge. park, and a fountain made of
A temple-like Greek Revival green glass cascades on the
structure with fluted Doric square’s Pearl Street side. On
columns, the granite building Angell Memorial Plaza across
had a skylit dome upon the road, a fountain dating
Greek Revival Custom House tower, one of completion in 1847. Since 1915, from 1912 commemorates
Boston’s most striking sights however, it has supported an George Thorndike Angell,
Alexander Graham Bell (1847–1922)

A native of Edinburgh, Scotland, and son of a
deaf mother, Bell moved to Boston in 1871 to
embark on a career of teaching speech to the
deaf. It led to his appointment, two years later,
as professor of vocal physiology at Boston
University. In a rented fifth-floor garret assisted
by young repair mechanic and model maker
Thomas Watson, Bell worked in his spare time
on an apparatus for transmitting sound by
electrical current. Initial success came on June 3,
1875, when the barely intelligible utterings of a human voice
(his own) traveled over a laboratory wire. History was made
on March 17, 1876, when Bell, while experimenting on voice
transmission, upset a battery, spilling acid on his clothing. He
called to another room: “Mr. Watson, come here. I want you.” With
each of those seven words reaching Watson clearly and distinctly,
the “electrical speech machine” was invented. In August that year,
Bell proved its practical value by sending messages over Canadian
telegraph wires. By 1878, he had set up the first public telephone
exchange in New Haven, Connecticut. Six years later, long-distance
calls were being made between Boston and New York City.
Distinctive, Art Deco-style Verizon Building,
a landmark of Boston
founder of the Massachusetts’ One Post Office Square, which
Society for the Prevention offers great views over Boston y Verizon Building
of Cruelty to Animals. Some Harbor and Downtown. These 185 Franklin St. Map 2 D4. Tel (617)
of the most important views can be seen from the 743-9340.  State, Aquarium.
buildings overlooking the atrium at the top of the Museum: Closed to the public. 7
square and plaza include the building, which, not strictly
New England Telephone open to the public, may be Dating from 1947 and
Building and the John W. accessible through polite overlooking the south side
McCormack courthouse inquiry. A focal point for the of Post Office Square, this Art
building, which formerly whole district, the grassy space Deco building, formerly the
housed downtown’s main of the square comes into its New England Telephone
post office. Other important own during the warmer months Building, is still in use today.
buildings include the Langham of the year, when office workers Dean Cornwell’s monumental
Boston hotel (see p137) – this can be seen sprawling across its 160-ft (49-m) long Telephone
classic Renaissance Revival well-kept lawns – a great place Men and Women at Work
showpiece was completed in for visitors to rest their weary mural – populated by 197
1922 and was originally the feet and watch Bostonians life-size figures – encircled
Federal Reserve Bank – and take a few minutes out. the lobby for over five
decades, a truly remarkable
work of art. Unfortunately,
the mural has now been
removed and the building is
closed to the public. Despite
this the building remains an
iconic Boston landmark in
light of its impressive history.
The building, one of the
best examples of Art Deco
remaining in the city, provides
an attractive backdrop for
area workers having lunch
on Post Office Square. Some
of the interior’s original
elements – high ceilings and
stately hallways made from
Marine granite – remain in
place, while others (floral
drapes and orange carpeting)
became dated and were
Post Office Square is a popular lunchtime spot for Financial District workers removed over time.
NORTH END AND THE

WATERFRONT
This was Boston’s first neighborhood, and transformed into luxury apartment blocks
one that has been key to the city’s fortunes. and offices. Away from the waterfront, the
Fringed by numerous wharves, the area narrow streets of the North End have
prospered initially through shipping and historically been home to European immi-
shipbuilding, with much of America’s early grants, drawn by the availability of work. An
trade passing through its warehouses. The Italian immigrant neighborhood through
more recent importance of finance and much of the 20th century, it retains an
high-tech industries, however, has seen Italian-American flavor in its many cafés,
the waterfront evolve; its old warehouses restaurants, and specialty shops.
NORTH END
PLAYGROUND
CI A L
Charlestown ER ST
Bridge M CH
AR RE
ET
M
TE
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O
KEANY ST
C
RE
ST
HU
SQUARE ET CO Battery
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S N O WHILL
PR
ST See Street Finder map 2

R E ET
RE
M
ST
IN
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SH
WA S H I N G T O N S T
EM
EA
CIA
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ST
FE
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Lincoln
RE
ST
T Wharf Restaurants pp144–5
E
T
N O R T H I LE STO HANO
V ER
1 Antico Forno
STRE E T
NO
T HATC H E R S T
E N D SNT BEN N ST AV E.
Union
HA
C LA
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ENDICOTT ST
MARGIN ST
ST
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PR
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3 Bricco
S T R E ET
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CT.
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PAR ST
Wharf 4 Carmen
DEN
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T AVE.
ER 5 Dino’s Café
GAR
STILLMAN ST ST
ST
RT
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ST
NO 6 Ernesto’s Pizzeria
TR
LEM
T I C AVENUE
Lewis
R
L S
7 Giacomo’s Ristorante
VE
Wharf
RI
ET
SA
CIA
CH
NO
RE
8 James Hook & Co.

M
Haymarket
ER
ST
HA
ON
MM
D
ST
RE 9 La Famiglia Giorgio
CO
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ON
LA
Commercial 10 Legal Harborside
N
LT
AT Wharf
FU
11 Maurizio’s Ristorante
Sights at a Glance CHRISTOPHER Italiano
COLUMBUS PARK
Historic Sites and Churches 12 Menton
WAT E RF RONT 13 Meritage
1 Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
AT
Long Wharf
14 Neptune Oyster
LA
Aquarium
2 Clough House
NTI
3 Old North Church p73

15 Pizzeria Regina
C
4 Paul Revere Mall

Central 16 Prezza
Wharf
17 Scopa
AV E N U
5 St. Stephen’s Church

6 Paul Revere House
18 Sportello
19 State Street Provisions
E
Waterfront Sights 20 Terramia

7 Christopher Columbus Park 21 Trade
8 Long Wharf
Rowes
Wharf
22 Yankee Lobster
9 New England Aquarium pp78–9 Company
AV E N UE
0 Rowes Wharf
q Institute of Contemporary Art
w Boston Tea Party Ships
E
U Northern Ave
EN Bridge
& Museum AV
IC
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e Children’s Museum L AN
AT
T IC NO
Evelyn RT
AN
CO
L Moakley Bridge HE
AT SE RN
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AP AV
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OR EN
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South Station BO
ST
ST
UL
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700 yards
TH
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SU AR
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Congress 1000 yards

EE
SW
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M St Bridge
SL
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0 meters 450
FA
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Summer
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TH
0 yards 450
ET
The redeveloped Rowes Wharf with the iconic archway For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: North End 2 Clough House

This 18th century home has a
The main arteries of this area are Hanover replica colonial printing press
and Salem Streets. Topped by the Old North and functions as a “historic”
chocolate shop.
Church, Salem Street is indicative of this
area’s historical connections – indeed the
Old North Church is one of Boston’s premier
Revolutionary sights. In general the area
consists of narrow streets and alleys, with
four- and five-story tenements, many of
which are now expensive condominiums.
Hanover Street, like much of the area, has
a distinctly Italian feel, while just south of
here is North Square, site of the famous HU
LL
Paul Revere House (see p75). ST
RE
ET
SH
EA
FE
ST
RE
ET
N
O
R
ET
TH
1 Copp’s Hill Burying Ground
RE
B
During the American Revolution, EN
ST
the British used this low hilltop to fire N

ET
M
cannon at American positions across

LE
Boston Harbor. Created in 1659 it is

SA
the city’s second oldest graveyard. Charlestown
PR
IN
CE
ST
3 . Old North Church RE
Built in 1723 and famous for the ET
part it played in Paul Revere’s
midnight ride (see p23), this is
Boston’s oldest religious
building. On festive occasions,
the North End still rings with
the sound of its bells.
Key
Suggested route
Government
Center
0 meters 50
0 yards 50
N O R T H E N D A N D T H E WAT E R F R O N T  71
4 . Paul Revere Mall

NORTH END
Linking the Old North Church to AND THE
Hanover Street, this tree-lined mall WATERFRONT
dates only from 1933. Its antique OLD

BOSTON
feel is enhanced by a statue of Paul AND THE
FINANCIAL
Revere, which was modeled in 1885. DISTRICT
Locator Map
See Street Finder map 2
5 St. Stephen’s Church

North End’s Italian theme
continues in this church,
though only by chance.
Long before the first Italians
arrived, Charles Bulfinch (see
p55) incorporated Italian
Renaissance features and
a bell tower into his refit of
an earlier church building.
T
IL
E
S
T
O
N
S
T
R
E
E
T
ST
R CLA
EE RK
T STR
EET
Hanover Street is the most Italian of

ET
Boston’s streets, brought to life by Italian

RE
restaurants and cafés, as well as the day-

ST
to-day activities of its ethnic community.

R
VE
O
AN
FL The waterfront
H
EE
T
ST
RE
ET
ET
RE
ST
N
O
O
M
T
UR
CO
6 . Paul Revere House

EN
This is the house where Paul Revere began

RD
his midnight ride (see p23). Revere’s home

GA
from 1770 to 1800, it is now a museum.

Bunker Hill. It is also the site

where, in 1919, a 2.3-million-
gallon molasses tank exploded,
creating a huge, syrupy tidal
wave that killed 21 people.
2 Clough House
21 Unity St. Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 523-
6676.  Haymarket, Aquarium.
Open Jun–Oct: 11am–5:30pm daily
(call for winter hours).
Ebenezer Clough was a master

mason and one of the Sons of
Liberty who participated in the
Boston Tea Party (see p77). One
of two masons who helped
to build the neighboring Old
North Church (see p73), he was
Slate tombstones of Boston’s early settlers, Copp’s Hill Burying Ground also the head of a syndicate
that laid out Unity Street in
1 Copp’s Hill who hung Paul Revere’s signal 1710 and built a series of six
Burying Ground lanterns in the belfry of Old town houses here. The only
Entrances at Charter & Hull Sts.
North Church (see p73), and building to survive is the one
Map 2 D2.  Government Center, Edmund Hartt, builder of the at No. 21 Unity Street, which
North Station. Open 9am–5pm daily. U.S.S. Constitution (see p117). was built in 1712, and was
Increase, Cotton, and Samuel the house in which Ebenezer
Established in 1659, this is Mather, three generations of Clough himself lived. In a bad
Boston’s second-oldest ceme- a family of highly influential state of decay for many years,
tery after the one by King’s colonial period Puritan and in danger of demolition,
Chapel (see p60). Nicknamed ministers, are also the house was only
“Corpse Hill,” the real name buried here. Hundreds saved when Reverend
of the hill occupied by the of Boston’s Colonial-era P. Kellet, vicar of Christ
cemetery derives from a local black slaves and Church, launched a
man by the name of William freedmen are also fund-raising campaign
Copp. He owned a farm on its buried here, including in 1962. A rather
southeastern slope from 1643, Prince Hall, a free black austere three-story
and much of the cemetery’s man who founded building, it is typical
land was purchased from him. the African Free- of much of Boston’s
His children can be found masonry Order colonial architecture.
buried here. Other more famous in Massachusetts. Now fully restored to
people interred here include During the British its former condition,
Robert Newman, the sexton occupation of Boston, the house has finely
the site was used by executed window and
British commanders Decorative column, door lintels, decorated
who had an artillery Copp’s Hill with raised brick
position here. They panels over the first-
would later exploit the floor windows and simple,
prominent hilltop location carved-brick detailing over
during the Revolution, when the door. Now part of the Old
they directed cannon fire from North Church campus, the
here across Boston harbor house illustrates life in the
toward American positions in late colonial era through
Charlestown. King George III’s two businesses. Costumed
troops were said to have used interpreters at the printing
the slate headstones for target office of Edes & Gill demon-
practice, and pockmarks from strate newspaper and
their musket balls are still broadside printing of the 18th
visible on some of them. century, while interpreters at
Copp’s Hill Terrace, directly Captain Jackson’s Historic
across Charter Street, is a prime Chocolate Shop discuss how
Quiet, leafy street, typical of the area observation point for views colonial Americans prepared
around Copp’s Hill over to Charlestown and and consumed chocolate.
3 Old North Church VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Christ Episcopal Church is the official name of this, Boston’s Practical Information
oldest surviving religious edifice, which dates from 1723. 193 Salem St.
Map 2 E2.
It was built of brick in the Georgian style similar to that Tel (617) 523-6676.
of St. Andrew’s-by-the-Wardrobe in Blackfriars, ∑ oldnorth.com
London, designed by Sir Christopher Open Jan, Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–
Wren. The church was made famous Sun; Mar–May: 9am–5pm daily
Jun–Oct: to 6pm; Nov–Mar:
on April 18, 1775, when sexton 10am–5pm daily. Closed Jan,
Robert Newman, aiding Paul Revere Feb: Mon. 5 9 & 11am. ^ 7
(see p23), hung a pair of signal & 8 call for details.
lanterns in the belfry. These were to Transport
warn the patriots in Charlestown of  Haymarket, Aquarium,
the westward departure of British North Station.
troops, on their way to engage
the revolutionaries.
Tower
The tower of the Old North
Church contains the first set
of church bells in North
America, cast in 1745.
. Box Pews
The unusual, high-sided box pews in the
church were designed to enclose footwarmers,
which were filled with hot coals or bricks
during wintry weather.
Chandeliers
The distinctive chandeliers
were brought from England
in January 1724 for the first
Christmas season.
Entrance
. Bust of George Washington

This marble bust of the first U.S. president,
modeled on an earlier one by Christian Gullager,
was presented to the church in 1815.
4 Paul Revere Mall Boston. Benches, a fountain,

Hanover St. Map 2 E2.  Haymarket,
and twin rows of linden trees
Aquarium. 7 complete the space, which
has a distinctly European feel.
This brickpaved plaza gives the
crowded neighborhood of the
North End a precious stretch of 5 St. Stephen’s
open space between Hanover Church
and Unity Streets. A wellutilized 401 Hanover St. Map 2 E2.
municipal resource, the Mall is Tel (617) 5231230.  Haymarket,
always full of local people: Aquarium. Open 8:30am–4:30pm
children, teenagers, young Mon–Sat. 5 11am Sun, 4:30pm
mothers, and older residents Sat, 7:30am Tue–Fri.
chatting in Italian and playing
cards or checkers. Laid out in Opened in 1714 as a humble
1933, and originally called the Congregationalist meeting
Prado, its focal point is Cyrus house, St. Stephen’s Church
Dallin’s equestrian statue of local was extensively enlarged and
hero Paul Revere, which was embellished by the architect
originally modeled in 1885. Charles Bulfinch (see p55) in
However, it was only sculpted 1802–04. Bulfinch incorporated
and placed here in a range of harmonious Italian
1940. Bronze bas Renaissance motifs in his
relief plaques on redesign, adding a number St. Stephen’s Church, with its
the mall’s side of decorative Renaissance-style bell tower
walls commem pediments and
orate a number pedestals, tall year after that project’s com
of North End arched windows, as pletion, the firstever bell cast by
residents who well as an ornate the famous revolutionary and
have played an bell tower that master metalworker, Paul Revere
important role Equestrian statue by Cyrus Dallin, is topped by a (see p23), was hung in the belfry.
in the history of Paul Revere Mall gilded cap. One The church’s present name
dates from 1862, when it
became Roman Catholic to
The Great Brinks Robbery accommodate the North End’s
Masterminded by Tony Pino, this infamous event took place on increasing numbers of Irish
the night of January 17, 1950 on North End’s Commercial Street. immigrants. When Hanover
Disguised as Brinks guards, seven of Pino’s men made off with Street was widened in 1869,
$2,775,395.12 in payroll money – including cash totaling the entire structure was moved
$1,218,211.29 – from the headquarters of the Brinks Armored back 16 ft (5 m) and, a year
Car Company. Nationwide headlines trumpeted the robbery as later, it was raised 6 ft (2 m)
the biggest heist in U.S. history. Even though all members of the to accommodate a basement
Brinks gang were eventually caught and imprisoned, only $60,000 chapel. Damaged by fires in
of the loot has been recovered almost 70 years after the event. 1897 and 1929, and redecorated
each time, the church was
restored to its Bulfinch
design in 1965.
The church’s interior features
include a gracefully curved
ceiling, original whitepainted
pine columns, and a pair of
pewter chandeliers, which are
copies of those hanging in the
Doric Hall of the Massachusetts
State House. The church’s pews
were donated in honor of the
numerous Irish, Italian, and
Portuguese parishioners who
live in the neighborhood,
while the Italian mahogany
Stations of the Cross are part
of the 1965 refit. St. Stephen’s
Members of the infamous Brinks gang, in police custody is listed on the National
Register of Historic Places.
N O R T H E N D T H E WAT E R F R O N T  75
6 Paul Revere from 1770 to 1800. Small

House leaded casement windows, an
overhanging upper story, and
19 North Sq. Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 523- nail-studded front door all
2338.  Haymarket, Aquarium. contribute to make it a fine
Open mid-Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:15pm
example of 17th-century Early
daily; Nov–mid-Apr: 9:30am–4:15pm
American architecture. In the
daily (Pierce-Hichborn House call for
tour hours). Closed Jan–Mar: Mon. &
courtyard along one side of
7 ^ 9 ∑ paulreverehouse.org the house is a large bronze
bell, cast by Paul Revere for a
The city’s oldest surviving church in 1804 – Revere made
clapboard frame house is nearly 200 church bells. Three
historically significant, for it rooms in the house contain
was here in 1775 that Paul period artifacts, including
Revere began his legendary original pieces of family fur-
horseback ride to warn his niture, items made in Revere’s
compatriots in Lexington of workshop, and colonial bank- The famous Paul Revere House built
the impending arrival of British notes. The house, which by the in the 17th century
troops (see p23). This mid-19th century
historic event was had become a
later immortalized in decrepit tenement 7 Christopher
a boldly patriotic, fronted by stores, Columbus Park
epic poem by was saved from Atlantic Avenue, between Long
Henry Wadsworth demolition by & Commercial Wharves.
Longfellow (see preservationists’ Map 2 E3.  Aquarium.
p110). It begins efforts led by a
“Listen, my children, Colonial banknotes, great-grandson Extensive urban renewal along
and you shall hear of exhibited in the of Revere. the Inner Harbor resulted in the
the midnight ride Paul Revere House Next door, the completion of this handsome
of Paul Revere.” early 18th-century park in 1976. It covers 4.5 acres
Revere, a Huguenot descen- Pierce-Hichborn House is (2 ha) with wisteria clinging to
dent, was by trade a versatile the earliest brick town house a 340-ft (104-m) long arched
gold- and silversmith, copper remaining in New England. trellis, and is a superlative spot
engraver, and maker of church It features Georgian English for views of the waterfront and
bells, cannons, and false teeth. motifs such as shallow arches the Financial District. The com-
He and his second wife Rachel, over the doors and windows, memorative Rose Kennedy
mother of eight of his 16 and twin chimneys. It is open Garden was added to the
children, owned the house for guided tours only. park’s layout in 1987.
Boston Harbor as seen from Christopher Columbus Park

q Institute of
Contemporary Art
25 Harbor Shore Drive. Map 2 F5.
Tel (617) 4783100.  Courthouse.
Open 10am–5pm Tue, Wed, Sat, Sun,
10am–9pm Thu, Fri. & 7
∑ icaboston.org
In 2006 the Institute of

Contemporary Art moved to a
dramatic wood, steel, and glass
landmark building on Fan Pier.
Lightflooded galleries, a perfor
mance space open to harbor views,
and a cuttingedge media center
mean that the ICA can extend
its eightdecade history of inno
vation well into the 21st century.
Its exhibitions typically break
the mold of convention and it
is building its first permanent
collection of avantgarde work.
Rowes Wharf development, typical of Boston’s waterfront regeneration w Boston Tea Party
Ships & Museum
8 Long Wharf 9 New England
306 Congress St. Map 2 E5.
Atlantic Avenue. Map 2 E3. Aquarium Tel (617) 3381773.  South Station.
 Aquarium. & ∑ bostonteapartyship.com
See pp78–9.
The nation’s oldest continuously Griffin’s Wharf, where the
operated wharf was built in Boston Tea Party took place
1710 to accommodate the 0 Rowes Wharf on December 16, 1773 (see
boom in early maritime com Atlantic Avenue. Map 2 E4.
p77), was buried beneath
merce. The following century  Aquarium. landfill many years ago.
was to be Boston’s international Today, visitors can enjoy
maritime heyday; it was the Completed in 1987, this fine interactive exhibits, including
busiest port in North America example of waterfront revitali actors in period clothing, a
and one of the most important zation replaced the twopart traditional tea room, and
in the colonies, surpassed India wharf dating from the Tavern Night shows. Floating
only by London and Bristol in 1760s. Built of Bostonian in Fort Point Channel are
the amount of cargo that it red brick and designed by perfect replicas of the Beaver
handled. Once extending 2,000 Skidmore, Owings & Merrill, and Dartmouth, two of the
ft (610 m) into Boston harbor, the complex houses the luxury three ships that took part
and lined with shops and Boston Harbor Hotel (see p135), in the original Boston Tea
warehouses, Long Wharf condominiums, offices, and a Party, built by master builder
provided secure mooring for marina. A large archway links Leon Poindexter. With its
the largest ships of the time. the city to the harbor. wraparound movie screen,
Today, Long Wharf is used
by boat services to Province
town, Charlestown Navy Yard,
and the Harbor Islands. The
attractive esplanade at the end
also offers good views across
the city’s waterfront. Running
along the waterfront, Harbor
Walk connects Long Wharf
with other adjacent wharves,
such as Union, Lewis, and
Commercial wharves. Dating
from the early 1800s, most
are now converted to fashion
able harborside apartments
and condominiums. View down Long Wharf toward the waterfront and Custom House
the state-of-the-art Minute- e Children’s Museum with barrels of materials

man Theatre plays a multi- 300 Congress St. Map 2 E5.
that children can use in
sensory film that dramatically Tel (617) 426-6500.  South Station. self-instructive creative
recreates one of the most Open 10am–5pm daily (to 9pm Fri). projects, while the KidPower
important events in the history & 7 ∑ bostonkids.org exhibition is designed to
of United States. encourage active, healthy
Overlooking Fort Point lifestyles. An international
Channel, a pair of rejuvenated flavor is injected into the
19th- century wool warehouses proceedings by a visit to
contain one of the country’s the silk merchant’s house,
best children’s museums, which has been transplanted
which underwent an extensive from the city of Kyoto in
expansion in 2007. There Japan (Boston’s sister city).
are many interesting exhibits, A towering milk bottle
and youngsters are able to from a local dairy stands
participate in games and outside in front of the
learning activities, and hoist museum building and is
themselves up a climbing used as an ice-cream stand
structure in the New in summer. An outdoor
Balance Center. park features mazes, giant
Playing on the mini-construction site at The Art Studio provides boulders, and spaces for
Boston’s Children’s Museum a hands-on recycling area outdoor performances.
The Boston Tea Party

In 1767, when Britain decided to tax its Thomas Hutchinson
American colonies, there was outrage. Governor of Boston and
Boycotts were placed on British goods, staunch monarchist,
and protesters took to the streets. Thomas Hutchinson tried
One such protest in 1773 culminated to force the rebels to
in the Boston Massacre (see p22). comply with British
Despite a subsequent reduction in taxation, colonial law.
tax on tea remained. Parliament then granted
the British East India Company sole rights to
sell tea in the colonies, which caused prices
342 bales of tea were
to rise further. In November 1773, ships arrived thrown into the sea.
in Boston Harbor loaded with tea, and
merchants, who refused to buy the tea, came
under pressure from Thomas Hutchinson,
the Monarchist governor. On the night of
December 16, however, around 7,000
rebels, gathered by Samuel Adams, marched
to the wharf declaring “Tonight Boston
Harbor is a teapot!” Fifty men, dressed
as Mohawks, boarded the ships and
dumped their cargoes into the water.
Britain reacted strongly, closing the port
and putting Massachusetts under martial
law. This retribution unified patriots across
America, and the “Boston Tea Party,” as the
protest was soon known, became the
spark that ignited the Revolutionary War.
Many of the rebels were

dressed as Mohawks.
A crowd of about 7,000

watched the events from
the quayside.
The Boston Tea Party, depicted in a 19th-century engraving
9 New England Aquarium

The waterfront’s prime attraction dominates Central
Wharf. Designed by a consortium of architects in 1969,
the aquarium’s core encloses a vast four-story ocean
tank, which contains a wide array of marine animals.
A curving walkway runs around the outside of the . Penguin Pool
One of the main attractions of the
tank from top to bottom and provides viewpoints
aquarium, the penguin pool runs
of the interior of the tank from different levels. Also around the base of the giant tank. It
resident are colonies of penguins, playful harbor contains African, rockhopper, and little
and fur seals, anacondas, rays, and mesmerizing blue penguins.
seadragons. An IMAX® Theatre rounds out the facility.
Shark and Ray Touch Tank

The biggest shark and ray touch
tank on the East Coast lets visitors
handle some of the sea’s oldest
and most mysterious creatures.
. Whale Watch
This marine safari from Boston to
Stellwagen Bank lets city visitors
see the largest mammals on earth.
Naturalists lead viewing of
humpback, finback, and
minke whales.
Main entrance
Harbor Seals
Harbor seals cavort in a glass-sided outdoor
tank that is always open for free viewing.
New Balance Foundation

Marine Mammal Center
Northern fur seals frolic in this
open-air exhibit where the
Central Wharf. Map 2 E3.
aquarium meets the harbor.
Tel (617) 973-5200.
Shallow pools and large decks
∑ neaq.org
allow visitors to interact and learn
Open Sep–Jun: 9am–5pm Mon–
about marine mammals up close.
Fri, 9am–6pm Sat & Sun; Jul–Aug:
9am–6pm Sun–Thu, 9am–7pm
Fri & Sat. & 7 9 - =
Transport
 Aquarium.
. Giant Ocean Tank

This tank contains 200,000
gallons (900,000 liters) of salt
water and houses a Caribbean
coral reef. The creatures
that inhabit it include sharks,
sea turtles, barracudas,
and moray eels.
IMAX® Theatre
KEY
Tropical Gallery
1 Ticket booth
This exhibit provides an account of the
many types of environment manifested
2 Harbor View Café in reefs: starting with a darkened exhibit
3 Gift Shop of deep-water reef fishes and ending
with a brightly lit, Pacific coral reef.
CHINATOWN AND THE

THEATER DISTRICT
Located south of Boston Common (see pp48–9) similar areas in San Francisco and New York.
and west of the Financial District, this part of West of Chinatown is the Theater District,
town has a noticeably gritty, more down-to- featuring touring Broadway shows and local
earth ambience. The area around Washington productions. The former “Combat Zone,”
Street, with Downtown Crossing at its center located at the lower end of Washington
(see pp82–3), is the city’s main shopping Street, between Chinatown and Boston
district. South of here is Chinatown, one of Common, has rebounded as an extension of
the largest in the United States, but a more the Theater District following the restoration
manageable, less intimidating version of of two historic theaters.
Sights at a Glance Restaurants pp145–6 11 Peach Farm

Historic Streets, Buildings, 1 Bristol Lounge 12 Penang
and Churches 2 Chau Chow City 13 Pho Pasteur
3 Dong Khanh 14 Shabu-Zen
1 St. Paul’s Cathedral
4 Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar 15 Taiwan Café
2 Downtown Crossing
5 East Ocean City 16 Teatro
3 Ladder District
6 Erbaluce 17 Troquet
4 Brattle Book Shop
7 Gourmet Dumpling House 18 Winsor Dim Sum Cafe
6 Massachusetts State
Transportation Building 8 Jacob Wirth Restaurant
8 Chinatown
9 Legal Sea Foods
9 Jacob Wirth
10 My Thai Vegan Cafe
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Traditional decorative gate at the entrance of Chinatown For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Around Washington Street

Running northeast from the Theater District,
Washington Street lies at the heart of Boston’s longtime
main shopping area. Its focal point, Downtown Crossing,
lies at its intersection with Winter and Summer Streets.
Saturday afternoons, in particular, offer visitors a
glimpse of Boston’s sophisticated, and often multi-
ethnic population, as they go about their shopping.
Macy’s is the main department store, though
Washington Street and the streets off it offer a range Sidewalk café on Summer Street
of outlets such as bookstores, camera stores, and
jewelers. Just to the south, the Theater District and
Boston
Chinatown are only a few minutes away on foot. Common
Note that incidences of petty crime sometimes
occur in this crowded area.
1 St. Paul’s Cathedral

Dating from around 1820,
this was one of the first Greek
Revival granite buildings to
go up in Boston.
Today it is still used to t
broadcast Sunday morning e
m
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religious programs. l
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P
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St
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4 . Brattle Book Shop

At first glance, there is
not a lot to recommend a
second look at this Boston
literary landmark. Inside,
however, are more than Theater District
250,000 rare books and and Chinatown
magazines, a treat for any
Av
lover of the printed word. e
d
e
5 . Boston Opera House

This building was opened as a theater in 1928. In
2004, it was completely restored and remains the
focus of the revitalized lower Washington Street.
C H I N ATO W N A N D T H E T H E AT E R D I S T R I C T  83
3 Ladder District BEACON HIll

Stretching along the east side of AND WEST END
Boston Common, the trendy
Ladder District includes Winter
Street, Temple Place, West Street, CHINATOWN
and Washington Street. AND THE
THEATER
DISTRICT
Locator Map
Old South
Meeting
House
W
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This intersection buzzes with
activity, but, despite being the site
of Macy’s department store, the
area can seem a little tawdry.
Nevertheless, it is a great place
to soak up the atmosphere
t
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Macy’s is one of
the most famous
stores in the U.S. –
the most well-
known store is
in New York.
La
fa
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The main street of this district, Washington Street
Boston Tea Party Ship has many stores. New developments and theater
restorations make it increasingly upscale.
Church in Boston 2 Downtown

came about with Crossing
Charles Bulfinch’s
design for the façade Washington, Winter & Summer Sts.
of the original New Map 4 F1.  Downtown Crossing.
South Church, This shopping-district
which was subse- crossroads was laid out as a
quently demolished. pedestrian zone between 1975
The stone work and 1978. The area is anchored
on St. Paul’s Cathedral by a Beaux Arts building (now
is by Solomon Willard, housing a market and luxury
who gave the church a residences) that once held
portico of six unfluted Filene’s, and Modern-style
stone columns with Macy’s. Smaller retail outlets,
Ionic capitals. The some in restored buildings
building’s pediment with terracotta and cast-iron
was initially intended façades, are plentiful in the
to feature a frieze streets radiating from
depicting St. Paul Downtown Crossing and
Classical chancel and box pews of the interior of St. Paul’s preaching before Washington Street. Lively
Cathedral, typically austere in style King Agrippa, but this push-cart vendors and
was never constructed sparkling diamonds in the
1 St. Paul’s Cathedral due to considerations of the jeweler’s district can also
138 Tremont St. Map 4 E1.
cost involved. be found here. South of
Tel (617) 482-5800.  Park Street. The interior of the church, Downtown Crossing, the
5 8am, 10am & 12:30pm Sun; 1pm dominated by a classical area recaptures an earlier
Mon, 12:15pm Tue & Fri. 7 chancel, curved apse, and era when it was part of
∑ stpaulboston.org box pews, is spacious and Boston’s original Theater Row.
austere, typical of a style found
Consecrated in 1820, Boston’s in New England churches.
second example of Greek In 1908 the church became 3 Ladder District
Revival architecture was the cathedral of Massachusetts’
Connecting streets and rear alleys
designed by Alexander Parris, Episcopal diocese. It also between Washington & Tremont Sts.
five years before the completion represents Boston’s changing Map 4 E1–F2.  Downtown Crossing
of his Quincy Market hall populations, offering a & Chinatown.
(see p66), which also has the 12:30pm Sunday service in
outward appearance of a Greek Chinese and 12:30pm Jum’ah Once a rather rundown part of
temple. The first Greek Revival Friday Muslim prayers. Downtown, the web of small
streets connecting Washington
and Tremont Streets, along the
east side of Boston Common,
came into its own at the
start of the new millennium.
Soaring buildings were erected
on vacant parking lots and old
architectural treasures on the
dark streets were refurbished
and brought back to life.
Today they house restaurants,
bars, and nightclubs.
Along with upmarket condos
came the Ritz-Carlton Boston
Common hotel (see p136),
housed in a building that
stretches the length of Avery
Street. This building played a
central role in the renaissance of
what used to be a no man’s land
between the Theater District
and Downtown Crossing. In
addition to the luxury hotel,
a bar and restaurant, and a
fashionable gym, the Equinox
Beaux Arts façade of former Filene’s department store, Downtown Crossing Sports Club, the structure also
houses the AMC Loews Boston added the term

Common (see p161). Boston’s “vaudeville” to show busi-
first premier cinema has 19 ness vocabulary. It was
screens, stadium seating, renamed the Savoy Theater
child-friendly matinees and in the 1940s and served
multiple dining concessions. as home for the Opera
The nightclubs and Company of Boston from
restaurants of the Ladder the late 1950s until 1991.
District are often indistin- The venue became inter-
guishable, although if a long nationally recognized for
line is standing outside, the Spanish Baroque, terracotta ornamentation on Sarah Caldwell’s daringly
establishment probably serves the façade of the Boston Opera House innovative productions.
more liquor than food. Club With its white Spanish
names also tend to change 5 Boston Opera Baroque, terracotta façade,
frequently as owners tweak House high ceilings, and three-tier
the themes to attract different horseshoe balconies, the theater
crowds. Many maps do not 539 Washington St. Map 4 E1. represents the apogee of early
show all the small streets in Tel (617) 259-3400.  Downtown 20th century hall design. A $54-
Crossing, Chinatown, Boylston. 7
the district, such as Pi Alley, million renovation completed
∑ bostonoperahouse.com
so it is best to take a leisurely in 2004 restored the theater’s
stroll and discover the area The building that is now the original opulence with gilded
for yourself. Boston Opera House has been surfaces and exquisite ceiling
known by many names. Built murals, while installing modern
on the site of the original climate control, technical
Boston Theater, and designed systems, and seating. Primarily
by Thomas Lamb, it opened in used for large touring Broadway
1928 as the B. F. Keith Memorial musicals, the Boston Opera
Theater, named after the late House is also the performance
19th-century showman who venue for the Boston Ballet.
Liberty Tree
At the corner of Washington Street and Boylston Street, a low
relief of a tree marks the exact site of the famous Liberty Tree,
Carts of second-hand books outside the where the Sons of Liberty would meet during the prelude to the
Brattle Book Shop American Revolution. The tree’s fame first became widespread when
it became a focal point for opposition to the Stamp Act (see p22).
4 Brattle Book The British stamp master, Andrew Oliver, was hung in effigy from
Shop its branches, an incident that caused people from all over the region
to gather around it. The tree was also a meeting place in the days
9 West St. Map 4 E1. Tel (617) 542- running up to the Boston Tea Party (see p77). In August 1775, during
0210.  Park Street, Downtown the early part of the Revolution when Boston was still occupied
Crossing. Open 9am–5:30pm Mon– by the British, a mob of Redcoats vented their anger on the tree
Sat. 7 ∑ brattlebookshop.com and chopped it down.
Founded in 1825 and located
at various sites around Boston
since, this bibliophiles’ treasure
house is packed with more
than 250,000 used, rare, and
out-of-print books. Proprietor
Kenneth Gloss also stocks
back issues of periodicals, Life,
Look, and Collier’s magazines
among them, along with
antiquarian ephemera such
as maps, prints, postcards,
greeting cards, and auto-
graphed manuscripts. In front
of and alongside the three-
story building, passersby
browse through bins and
carts full of discounted
bargain books priced in Bostonians protest the Stamp Act of 1765, around the Liberty Tree
the range of $1 to $5.
6 Massachusetts
State Transportation
Building
8–10 Park Plaza, Stuart & Charles Sts.
Map 4 E2.  Boylston. Atrium
restaurants: Open 11am–8pm Mon–
Fri, noon–6pm Sat. 7
The main feature of the
Massachusetts State
Transportation Building,
constructed in 1983, is its }
seven-story-high, skylit City
Place atrium, which is directly
accessible to the public.
Covering most of a sizeable city
block, this red-brick and glass
cantilevered building has won
several prestigious design
awards. It incorporates offices
and public-service facilities,
maintained by the state’s
transportation administrators,
around a central mall of wide- The City Place atrium in the Massachusetts State Transportation Building
ranging shops and restaurants.
Lunchtime concerts, pop interior, on the other hand, 8 Chinatown
or light-classical music, are is an impressively opulent Bounded by Kingston, Kneeland,
frequently scheduled in the showpiece by H.B. Pennell: his Washington & Essex Sts.
central mall, while gallery Rococo lobby boasts gilded Map 4 E2.  Chinatown.
showings are often held on the trim, chandeliers, and lofty
upper levels overlooking the arched ceilings. The 1,658- Although smaller than those
atrium. Other facilities in the seat auditorium is decorated in San Fransisco and New York,
building include a bank, with allegorical figures, this area remains one of the
newsstand, and several frescoes, and friezes. largest Chinatowns in the U.S.
fast-food eateries. The theater opened on It covers blocks of filled land
December 20, 1900 with a that had been the South Cove
suitably extravagant perfor- tidal backwater until the early
mance of the melodrama 19th century. Pagoda-topped
Ben Hur, featuring a cast of telephone booths, as well as a
350 and an on-stage chariot three-story gateway guarded
race involving a dozen by four marble lions, set the
horses pulling Roman neighborhood’s Asian tone.
chariots on treadmills. The first 200 Chinese to settle
It was also the venue in New England came by ship
for productions by from San Francisco in 1870.
Gilt ornamentation from the lavishly decorated directors such as Mostly unskilled, they were
interior of the Colonial Theatre Irving Berlin, Sigmund recruited to break a labor
Romberg, and Rodgers strike at a shoe factory in
7 Colonial Theatre and Hammerstein, and is where Massachusetts, but were jobless
106 Boylston St. Map 4 E2.
Ziegfeld premiered his Follies by 1874. At this time, some
Tel (617) 426-9366.  Boylston. (see p89). The theater is now drifted to Boston, at first
Open phone to check. 7 owned by Emerson College. pitching their tents on Oliver
∑ artsemerson.org
Clarence H. Blackall designed

14 Boston theaters during his
architectural career, among
them the Colonial, which is
the city’s oldest theater to
have been in continuous
operation under the same
name. A two-story loggia sits
atop Blackall’s structure, which
is otherwise quite plain. The Colorful, contemporary street mural in Chinatown
Place, which they renamed

Ping On Alley – “the Street
of Peace and Security.” In
the 1880s another wave of
Chinese immigration from
California was prompted
by an economic boom
that led to job openings
in construction, on the
railroad, and the laying of
telephone lines. Boston’s
Chinese colony was fully
established by the turn
of the 19th century,
and with it came the
ubiquitous garment
and textile industries.
Political turmoil in China Typical store and restaurant façades in Boston’s Chinatown
immediately following
World War II, and more recent 0 Bay Village story writer Edgar Allen Poe
arrivals from Vietnam, Laos, was born in a boarding house
Bounded by Tremont, Arlington &
Korea, Thailand, and Cambodia, South Charles Sts. Map 4 D2.  New on Carver Street, where his
have swelled Chinatown’s England Medical Center, Boylston. thespian parents were staying
population, which now stands while in Boston on tour with a
at around 8,000. Restaurants, Originally an expanse of mud traveling theatrical company.
bakeries, food markets, curio flats, the Bay Village area was Although Poe was never fond
shops, and dispensers of drained in the early 1800s and of Boston (he called residents
Chinese medicine are especially initially became habitable “Frogpondians”), the city
numerous along the main with the construction of a dam honored him with a statue.
thoroughfare of Beach Street, in 1825. Many carpenters, Erected in October 2014 on the
as well as on Tyler, Oxford, cabinetmakers, artisans, and corner of Boylston Street and
and Harrison Streets. house painters involved in the Charles Street South, it depicts
construction of Beacon Hill’s Poe in mid-stride with a flowing
pricier town houses built their cape and a suitcase filled with
9 Jacob Wirth own modest but well-crafted manuscripts. His signature raven
residences here. As is at his side.
31–37 Stuart St. Map 4 E2.Tel (617)
338-8586.  Boylston, Chinatown. a result there are In the 1920s,
Open 11:30am–9pm Sun & Mon, many similarities at the height of
11:30am–10pm Tue & Wed, 11:30am – between the two the Prohibition
midnight Thu, 11:30am–1am Fri & Sat. neighborhoods, era, clandestine
7 ∑ jacobwirth.com including plenty of speakeasies
red brick, arched gave Bay Village
Occupying a 19th-century row doorways, window its still-prevalent
house, Jacob Wirth (see p146) boxes and shutters, bohemian
has been in business since 1868. courtyards, tidy ambience. More
It is Boston’s second oldest gardens, and recently, the
restaurant after the Union Oyster antique gas lamps. neighborhood
House (see p143). Restaurateur Fayette Street was has become
Jacob Wirth had the majestic laid out in 1824 to a center for
mahogany restaurant bar coincide with the Boston’s gay
shipped in small pieces from triumphant U.S. community.
Russia. The beer-hall, with its visit of the Marquis The Coconut
globe lighting, ceiling fans, dark de Lafayette, the Grove nightclub
paneling, bare wood floors, French general fire of 1942, when
and brass railings, has barely who allied himself Bay Village doorway, similar to 491 of the club’s
changed since it first opened. with George those of Beacon Hill patrons died,
Sausage-and-sauerkraut menu Washington for remains one of
staples, combined with draft some of the campaigns of the United States’ highest fire
beers and German wines, make the Revolutionary War. death tolls. This devastating
this the only authentic German Bay Street, located just off occurrence resulted in infamy
restaurant in a city that is Fayette Street, features a single for the area but, ultimately,
famous for its Irish and Italian dwelling and is generally to more stringent fire-safety
heritage. Friday night piano regarded as the city’s shortest codes throughout the
sing-alongs are very popular. street. In 1809, poet and short- United States.
w Wang Theatre
270 Tremont St. Map 4 E2. Tel (617)
482-9393.  Boylston, New England
Medical Center. Open phone for
details. 7 ∑ citicenter.org
Opened in 1925 as the

Metropolitan Theatre and later
named the Music Hall, New
England’s most ornate variety
theater was inspired by the
Paris Opera House, and was
originally intended to be
a movie theater. Like the
nearby Colonial Theatre, the
Metropolitan was designed
by Clarence Blackall. When
it was first built the auditorium
had over 4,000 seats, which
made it one of the largest
in the world. It was so big
that at its opening, which
over 20,000 people attended,
one Hollywood magnate
described it as a theater
of “mountainous splendour,
a movie palace of fabulous
grandeur and stupendous
stage presentations.” Another
observer described it as a
“cathedral of the movies.”
The theater was restored
The vast Grand Lobby of the Wang Theatre and renamed in 1983. The
five-story Grand Lobby and
q Shubert Theatre opened its doors in 1910, and seven-story auditorium are
during its heyday many famous designed in a magnificent
265 Tremont St. Map 4 E2. Tel (617)
482-9393.  Boylston, New England stars walked the boards here. and ornate Renaissance
Medical Center. Open phone for Among them were Sarah Revival style: gold-plated
details. 7 ∑ citicenter.org Bernhardt, W.C. Fields, Cary chandeliers, bronze detailing,
Grant, Mae West, Humphrey stained glass, florid ceiling
The 1,650-seat Shubert Theatre Bogart, Ingrid Bergman, murals, rose jasper
rivals the Colonial Theatre (see Henry Ford, and pillars, and marble-
p86) for its long history of staging Rex Harrison. framed
major pre-Broadway musical The Shubert doorways.
productions. Designed by the Theatre is listed There are also
architects Charles Bond and on the National three sumptuous
Thomas James, the theater first Register of Historic lobbies, which
Places, and features a Ornate, gilt decoration visitors must pass
white, Neo-Classical at the Wang through before
façade with a pair of finally arriving at
Ionic columns flanking a the awesome Grand Lobby.
monumental, Palladian-style Today, the theater hosts
window that sits over the a wide variety of events,
entrance. The entrance also including Broadway road
boasts an ornate, wrought-iron shows, touring national and
canopy. international dance and opera
The theater closed for some productions, celebrity concert
years but in 1997 it reopened to appearances, and motion-
premiere the pre-Broadway hit picture revivals. It is also a
Rent. Local companies also stage popular performance venue
performances here. for local dance and theater
A plaque to the side of the companies. Both the Wang and
Palladian-style window over the entrance main entrance recounts Shubert theaters are operated
to the Shubert Theatre the history of the theater. by Citi Performing Arts Center.
The History of Boston’s Theater District

Boston’s first theater opened in 1793 on Federal Street. Fifty years later Boston had
become a major tryout town and boasted a number of lavish theaters. The U.S. premiere
of Handel’s Messiah opened in 1839, the U.S. premiere of Gilbert and Sullivan’s H.M.S.
Pinafore in 1877, and the world premiere of Tchaikovsky’s First Piano Concerto in 1875.
In the late 19th century theaters came under fire from the censorious Watch and Ward
Society. In the 20th century, now celebrated dramas such as Tennessee Williams’ A
Streetcar Named Desire and Eugene O’Neill’s Long Day’s Journey into Night debuted here.
Premieres included Ziegfeld Follies, Gershwin’s Porgy and Bess, and musicals by Rodgers
and Hammerstein.
Theatergoers in 19th-century Boston came

primarily from the city’s social elite, who
were often patrons of the arts. In this way
Boston’s theaters flourished.
The planned new theater remained in

use until 1835. It became the Academy
of Music from 1835 to 1846.
Old theater
Athena
Cupids
The Federal Street Theater

Designed by Charles Bulfinch, the Federal Street Theater was burned
down in 1798. The old and new theaters are depicted in this alle
gorical painting, possibly a set design, which also shows characters
from Greek mythology. Other Bulfinch buildings are also shown.
Ziegfeld Follies, produced The Rodgers and Hammerstein

Tennessee Williams’ A Streetcar in the 1920s, had eight musical Oklahoma! premiered in
Named Desire premiered at Boston’s pre-Broadway “try-outs” Boston as a production entitled
Wilbur Theatre. It starred a young at the Colonial Theatre Away We Go! It was refined in
Marlon Brando and Jessica Tandy. (see p86). Boston before hitting Broadway.
BACK BAY AND SOUTH END

Until the 19th century Boston was situated with elegant boulevards, Back Bay is
on a narrow peninsula surrounded by tidal now one of Boston’s most exclusive
marshes. Projects to fill Back Bay began in neighborhoods. The more bohemian
the 1850s and were made possible by new South End, laid out on an English model
inventions such as the steam shovel. The of town houses clustered around squares,
Back Bay was filled by 1880 and developers is home to many artists and Boston’s
soon moved in. Planned along French lines, gay community.
Sights at a Glance
Historic Streets and Squares q Berklee Performance Center Restaurants pp146–8
1 The Esplanade w Prudential Center 1 B&G Oysters
4 Commonwealth Avenue e Christian Science Center 2 Brasserie Jo
5 Newbury Street t Boston Center for the Arts 3 Coppa
7 Copley Square 4 Deuxave
8 Boylston Street 5 L’Espalier
r Copley Place 6 Grill 23
y Union Park 7 Mike’s City Diner
8 Oishii
Historic Buildings, Churches,
9 Orinoco
and Museums
10 Parish Café
2 Gibson House Museum 11 Post 390
3 First Baptist Church 12 Scoozi
6 Trinity Church pp96–7 13 Sonsie
9 Boston Public Library 14 Sorellina
0 John Hancock Tower 15 Stephanie’s on Newbury
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Grand arches and murals adorn the interior of Boston Public Library For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street: Back Bay

this fashionable district unfolds westward from the
Public Garden (see pp48–9) in a grid that departs
radically from the twisting streets found elsewhere
in boston. Commonwealth avenue, with its grand
19th-century mansions and parkland, and newbury
and boylston streets are its main arteries. newbury
street is a magnet for all of boston wanting to Weekly summer and fall farmers’
indulge in some upscale shopping, whereas the market, Copley Square
more somber boylston street bustles with office
workers. Copley square anchors the entire area
and is the site of Henry Hobson richardson’s
magnificent trinity Church (see pp96–7) and
the 60-story John Hancock tower (see p99),
the tallest building in new england.
7 Copley Square
This square was a marsh until
1870. It took on its present
form only in the late 20th
century as buildings around
ue
its edges were completed. A en
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farmers’ market, concerts, and h
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8 Boylston Street
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The site of the Prudential

Center (see p100) and the
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Boylston Street is also the

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location of the fabulous New

re
Old South Church (see p98).

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9 . Boston
Public Library
One of the first free
public libraries in the
world, this building
was designed by
Charles McKim. Inside
are murals by John South
Singer Sargent. End
b a c k b ay a n d s o u t h e n d  93
3 First Baptist Church beacon hill

By Henry Hobson Richardson (see p94), and weSt
end
this church is a fine example of his
Romanesque Revival style.
back bay and
South end
Beacon Hill
Locator Map
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boasts beautiful town houses

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and a tree-lined central mall.

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5 . Newbury Street
High fashion outlets,
galleries, and restaurants
characterize this street –
Boston’s most fashionable,
and a great place for
people-watching.
Key
Suggested route
0 metres 50
6 . Trinity Church
Acknowledged as Henry Hobson 0 yards 50
Richardson’s Romanesque Revival
masterpiece, this is one of the most
important churches in the U.S.
1 The Esplanade
Map 1 A4.  Charles/MGH.
Open 24 hrs daily. 7
Running along the Boston side

of the Charles River, between
Longfellow Bridge and
Dartmouth Street, are the
parkland, lagoons, and islands
known collectively as the
Esplanade. The park is used
extensively for in-line skating,
cycling, and strolling and it
is also the access point for
boating on the river, including
gondola rides. It is also the site
of the city’s leading outdoor
concert venue.
In 1929, Arthur Fiedler, then
the young conductor of the The original Victorian-style library of the Gibson House Museum
Boston Pops Orchestra, chose
the Esplanade for a summer popular Italian Renaissance 3 First Baptist
concert series that became a Revival style for the widow Church
tradition. The Hatch Memorial Catherine Hammond Gibson,
Shell was constructed in 1939, who was one of the few women 110 Commonwealth Ave. Map 3 C2.
and its stage is widely used by to own property in this part of Tel (617) 267-3148.  Arlington.
Open for Sunday worship.
musical ensembles and other the city. Her grandson Charles
5 11am Sun. ^ 7
groups throughout the summer. Hammond Gibson, Jr., a noted ∑ firstbaptistboston.com
Fourth of July concerts by the eccentric, poet, travel writer,
Boston Pops, which are followed horticulturalist, and bon vivant, The Romanesque-style First
by fireworks, can attract upward arranged for the house to Baptist Church on the corner of
of 500,000 spectators (see p37). become a museum after his Commonwealth Avenue and
death in 1954. As a prelude to Clarendon Street was Henry
this, Gibson began to rope Hobson Richardson’s (see p34)
off the furniture in the 1930s, first major architectural
instead inviting his guests to sit commission and became an
on the stairs to drink martinis instant landmark when it was
made with his own bathtub gin. finished in 1872. Viewed from
One of the most modern Commonwealth Avenue, it is
houses of its day, the Gibson one of the most distinctive
House boasted such technical buildings of the city skyline.
advancements as gas lighting, Richardson considered the
indoor plumbing in the basement, nearly freestanding bell tower,
and coal-fired central heating. which he modeled roughly
Visitors can see a full dinner setting on Italian campaniles, to be
Fountains at the Esplanade, next to the in the dining room or admire the the church’s most innovative
Charles River whimsical Turkish pet pavilion. structure. The square tower is
But it is Gibson’s preservation of topped with a decorative frieze
the 1860s decor (with some modi- and arches protected by an
2 Gibson House fications in 1888) that makes the overhanging roof. The frieze was
Museum museum a true time capsule of modeled in Paris by Bartholdi,
137 Beacon St. Map 1 A4.
Victorian life in Boston. the sculptor who created the
Tel (617) 267-6338.  Arlington. Statue of Liberty, and
Open obligatory tours at 1pm, 2pm, was carved in place by
3pm Wed–Sun. & ^ 8 Italian artisans after the
∑ thegibsonhouse.org stones were set. The
faces in the frieze, which
Among the first houses built in depict the sacraments,
the Back Bay, the Gibson House are likenesses of
preserves its original Victorian prominent Bostonians of
decor and furnishings through- that time, among them
out all six stories. The 1860 Henry Wadsworth
brownstone and red-brick Detail of Bartholdi’s frieze atop the distinctive Longfellow and Ralph
structure was designed in the square tower of the First Baptist Church Waldo Emerson (see p33).
The trumpeting angels at the on the central mall of the of the city’s most au
corners of the tower gave the avenue encounter a courant restaurants.
building its nickname, “Church number of historic Churches provide
of the Holy Bean Blowers.” figures in the form of vestiges of a more
Four years after the church bronze statues. Some decorous era. The
was completed, the Unitarian have only tangential Church of the
congregation dissolved because relationships to the Covenant at No. 67
it was unable to bear the city, like Alexander Newbury contains
expense of the building. The Hamilton, the first the world’s largest
church stood vacant until secretary of the U.S. collection of Louis
1881, when the First Baptist Treasury. The end Comfort Tiffany
congregation from the of the mall features stained-glass
South End took it over. an heroic bronze of windows and an
Leif Erikson, erected elaborate Tiffany
as a historically lantern. A choir
4 Commonwealth unsupported flight and musicians
Avenue of fancy that the William Garrison statue on perform sacred
Norse explorer Commonwealth Avenue music each Sunday
Map 3 B2.  Arlington, Copley,
landed at Boston. at Emmanuel
Hynes Convention Center/ICA.
The patrician statue of abolitionist Church on the corner of
Back Bay was Boston’s first fully William Garrison is said to Newbury and Berkeley Streets.
planned neighborhood, and capture exactly the man’s air of Most of Newbury Street was
architect Arthur Gilman made moral superiority. The best-loved constructed as town house
Commonwealth Avenue, memorial depicts sailor and residences, but the desirability
modeled on the elegant bou- historian Samuel Eliot Morison of these spaces for retail oper-
levards of Paris, the centerpiece dangling his feet from a rock. ations has pushed residents
of the design. At 200 ft (61 m) to the upper floors, while
wide, with a 10 ft (3 m) setback ground and underground
from the sidewalks to encour- 5 Newbury Street levels are devoted to chic
age small gardens in front of Map 3 C2.  Arlington, Copley,
boutiques and eateries.
the buildings, Commonwealth Hynes Convention Center/ICA. Fashionable sidewalk dining
became an arena for America’s gives great buzz to enduring
leading domestic architects Newbury Street is a Boston classic bistro spots, such as
in the second half of the 19th synonym for “stylish.” The Taj Stephanie’s on Newbury
century. A walk from the Boston, formerly the Ritz- and Sonsie (see p147).
Public Garden to Massachusetts Carlton Hotel, at Arlington
Avenue is like flicking through Street sets an elegant tone for R Church of the Covenant
a catalog of architectural styles. the street that continues with 67 Newbury St. Tel (617) 266-7480.
Few of the grand buildings a mix of prestigious and often Open 10:30am Sun for church
on either side of the avenue are well-hidden art galleries, service. ^ 7 8 9
open to the public, but strollers stylish boutiques, and some ∑ cotcboston.org
Stylish Newbury Street, with its elegant shops, galleries, and restaurants, is the epitome of Boston style
6 Trinity Church
Routinely voted one of America’s finest churches, this
masterpiece by Henry Hobson Richardson dates from 1877.
Trinity Church was founded in 1733 near Downtown Crossing,
but the congregation moved the church to this site in 1871.
The church is a granite and sandstone Romanesque structure
standing on wooden piles driven through mud into bedrock,
surmounted with granite pyramids. John LaFarge designed
the interior, while some of the windows are designed by
Edward Burne-Jones and executed by William Morris.
KEY
1 The pulpit is covered with

carved scenes from the life of
Christ, as well as portraits of great
preachers through the ages.
2 Gold bas-reliefs adorn the wall
of the chancel, behind the altar.
A series of such bas-reliefs can be
seen in the church.
3 The bell tower was inspired
by the Renaissance cathedral
at Salamanca, central Spain.
4 John LaFarge’s lancet windows
show Christ in the act of blessing.
They were designed at the request
of Phillips Brooks – he wanted
LaFarge to create an inspirational
design for the west nave, which
he could look at while preaching.
Parish
House
. North Transept Chancel

Windows Designed by Charles
Designed by Edward Maginnis, the
Burne-Jones and present-day chancel
executed by William was not dedicated
Morris, the three stained- until 1938. The seven
glass windows above windows by Clayton
the choir relate the & Bell, of London,
story of Christmas. show the life of Christ.
David’s Charge
to Solomon
Located in the baptistry,
to the right of the chancel,
Copley Sq. Map 3 C2.
this beautiful window
Tel (617) 536-0944.
is also the result of a
∑ trinitychurchboston.org
partnership between
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Edward Burne-Jones
1–5pm Sun. 5 7:45am, 9am,
and William Morris.
11:15am, 6pm Sun. Concerts:
The story shown is one
Sep–Jun: 12:15pm Fri. &
of the few in the church
8 call for tour times. 7
from the Old Testament.
Transport
 Copley.
. West Portico
Richardson disliked the original flat façade of
Trinity Church, and so modeled the deeply
sculpted west portico after St. Trophime in
Arles, France. It was added after his death.
Carving of Phillips Brooks and Christ
Phillips Brooks
Born in Boston in 1835 and
educated at Harvard, Brooks
was a towering charismatic
figure. Rector of Trinity
Church from 1869, he gained
a reputation for powerful
sermons. From 1872 Brooks
worked closely with Henry
Hobson Richardson on the
Main design of the new Trinity
entrance Church – at least five sculpted
likenesses of him can be seen
in and around the building.
8 Boylston Street city’s burgeoning convention

Map 3 C2.  Boylston, Arlington,
business and added upscale
Copley, Hynes Convention Center/ICA. public dining.
The Italian Gothic-style New
The corners of Boylston and Old South Church, at the corner
Berkeley streets represent of Dartmouth and Boylston
Boston architecture at its most Streets, was built in 1874–5 by
diverse. The stately French the congregation that had met
Academic-style structure on the previously at the Old South
west side was erected for the Meeting House (see p61).
Museum of Natural History, a
forerunner of the Museum of R New Old South Church
Science (see p55). The east side 645 Boylston St. Map 3 C2. Tel (617)
spouts a Robert A.M. Stern 536-1970. Open 8am–7pm Mon–
tower and a Philip Johnson Fri, 10am–4pm Sat, 8:30am–4pm Sun.
The New Old South Church, which looks office building that resembles 5 9am, 11am Sun, 6pm Thu. ^ 7
8 9 ∑ oldsouth.org
across Copley Square a table radio. Boston’s finest
jeweler, Shreve, Crump & Low,
7 Copley Square occupied the Art Deco building
9 Boston Public
Map 3 C2.  Copley.
at the corner of Arlington Street
until relocating around the Library
Named after John Singleton corner to 39 Newbury Street. Copley Square. Map 3 C2. Tel (617)
Copley, the great Boston painter Some notable office buildings 536-5400.  Copley. General Library:
born nearby in 1737, Copley stand on Boylston Street. The Open 9am–9pm Mon–Thu, 9am–5pm
Square is a hive of civic activity lobby of the New England Fri–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. Closed public
surrounded by some of Boston’s building at No. 501 features hols; Jun–Sep: Sun. 8 2:30pm Mon,
most striking architecture. large historical murals and 6pm Tue & Thu, 11am Wed, Fri & Sat,
Summer activities include dioramas depicting the process 2pm Sun. 7 9 ∑ bpl.org
weekly farmers’ markets, con- of filling Back Bay during the
certs, and even folk-dancing. late 19th century. The towers Founded in 1848, the Boston
The inviting green plaza took of the Prudential Center (see Public Library was America’s first
years to develop; when Copley p100) dominate the skyline on metropolitan library for the
was born it was just a marshy upper Boylston Street. Adjoining public. It quickly outgrew its
riverbank, which remained the Prudential is the Hynes original building, hence the
unfilled until 1870. Construction Convention Center. It was enlarged construction of the Italian
of the John Hancock Tower in 1988 to accommodate the palazzo-style Copley Square
in 1975 anchored the building in 1887–95,
southeastern side of with “Free to All”
Copley Square, and emblazoned above the
Copley Place (see p101) entrance. The architect
completed the square Charles McKim drew on
on the southwestern the highly skilled force
corner in 1984. Today’s of mostly Italian con-
Copley Square, a wide struction workers and
open space of trees, artisans who had come
grass, and fountains, to Boston to build
took shape in the heart mansions in the Back
of the city in the 1990s, Bay and South End.
after various plans Sculptor Daniel Chester
to utilize this hither- French fashioned the
to wasted space huge bronze doors that
were tendered. represent Music and
A large plaque Poetry, Knowledge and
honoring the Boston Wisdom, and Truth
Marathon, which ends and Romance. French
at the Boston Public painter Puvis de
Library, was set in the Chavannes executed
sidewalk in 1996 to the murals that wind
coincide with the 100th up the staircase and
race. As well as pushcart along the second-
vendors, the plaza has floor corridor. Edward
a booth for discounted Abbey’s Pre-Raphaelite
theater, music, and The vast Bates Hall in the Boston Public Library, noted for its high murals of the Quest for
dance tickets. barrel-vaulted ceiling the Holy Grail line the
book request room, and John

Singer Sargent’s murals of
Judaism and Christianity cover
a third-floor gallery.
The McKim building, largely
restored for its 1995 centennial,
is a marvel of wood and marble.
Bates Hall, on the second floor, is
particularly noted for the soaring
barrel-vaulted ceiling. A café
and restaurant offer breakfast,
lunch, and afternoon tea.
The library’s circulating
collection is housed in the
1971 Boylston Street addition,
a modernist structure by
architect Philip Johnson.
0 John Hancock
Tower
200 Clarendon St. Map 3 C2.
 Copley. Closed to the public.
The tallest building in New

England, the 790-ft (240-m)
rhomboid that is the John
Hancock Tower cuts into
Copley Square with its slim- View over Back Bay and the Charles River
mest edge, its mirrored façade
reflecting the surroundings q Berklee Joey Kramer of Aerosmith,
and sky. The innovative design Performance and jazz pianist Diana Krall.
has created a 60-story office The school’s students and
building that shares the
Center distinguished faculty enliven
square with its neighbors, 136 Massachusetts Ave. the Boston music scene,
the Romanesque Trinity Church Map 3 A3. Tel (617) 747-2261. performing primarily at the
and the Italian Renaissance  Hynes. ∑ berklee.edu/bpc on-site Berklee Performance
Revival Copley Plaza Hotel, The largest independent music Center. The college purchased
without dwarfing them. When college in the world, Berklee the 1915 Fenway Theatre
the tower was under con- was founded in 1945 and has movie palace in 1972 and
struction, 65 windows, each produced a number of stars transformed it into a top-rate,
weighing 500lb (1,100 kg), in jazz, rock, and pop music 1,215-seat concert hall for live
came crashing to the ground. in the ensuing decades. performances, with rehearsal
All 10,344 panes were replaced Included in the list of well- space and recording studios
at a cost of almost $7 million known talents are the likes on the lower level. The center
before the building could be of producer and arranger boasts extraordinary acoustics
occupied in 1975. Quincy Jones, singer and and a state-of-the-art light and
Designed by Henry Cobb songwriter Melissa Etheridge, sound system. Highlights of
of I.M. Pei & Partners, the jazz saxophonist and composer the approximately 200 events
magnificent building inspired Branford Marsalis, drummer presented here each year
Massachusetts author John include concerts
Updike to observe: “All art, all by students, faculty
beauty, is reflection.” From members, and
one angle viewers can see the renowned visiting
reflections of Trinity Church artists. The college
and the original (1947) also makes the
Hancock Building, topped facility available to
by a weather beacon. other community
The observatory on the 60th organizations and
floor of the tower closed for arts presenters,
safety reasons following the which guarantees
tragic events in September a lively and often
2001 at the World Trade Musicians playing at the state-of-the-art Berklee surprising schedule
Center in New York. Performance Center of events.
w Prudential Center
800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Tel (617)
859-0648.  Prudential, Hynes
Convention Center/ICA. Skywalk:
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–10pm daily;
Nov–Feb: 10am–8pm daily. Closed
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7 9
When it was erected in 1965,

the Prudential Tower was
the first skyscraper in the
Back Bay, rising 52 floors. Office
buildings and a shopping
center now girdle its base,
and the “Pru” is linked through
indoor walkways with the Inside the beautiful, stained-glass Mapparium, Christian Science Center
Hynes Convention Center and
the Sheraton Boston Hotel its shops to the more glamorous e Christian Science
in one unified complex. An Copley Place across busy Center
enclosed walkway even links Huntington Avenue. Apart from
the shops and food courts, the 175 Huntington Ave. Map 3 B3.
 Symphony. Mother Church:
principal attraction of the “Pru”
Tel (617) 450-2000. Open free tours
is the Skywalk on the 50th
noon–4pm Tue, 1–4pm Wed, noon–
floor. The Skywalk is the only
5pm Thu–Sat. Library: Tel (617) 450-
360-degree aerial observatory 7000. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun (last
in Boston, and its location near entry to Mapparium 3:40pm). & 5
the top of Boylston Street hill 10am & 5pm Sun, noon & 7:30pm
provides striking views of the Wed (no evening service Jul–Aug). 7
Emerald Necklace (see p105) 8 ∑ marybakereddylibrary.org
as well as downtown and
the waterfront. Signs on the The world headquarters of
windows assist in identifying the First Church of Christ,
the landmarks below. A similar Scientist, occupies 14 acres on
view, which visitors do not the corner of Huntington and
need to pay for, is available at Massachusetts Avenues. Known
the Top of the Hub restaurant also as the Christian Science
on the 52nd floor. Some of the Church, this religious body was
bar windows here face west, formed in 1879 by Mary Baker
so those having a drink can Eddy. The granite, Romanesque-
Prudential Tower viewed across the Christian enjoy spectacular sunset style Mother Church dates from
Science reflecting pool views over Boston. 1894, but it serves only as a
chapel at the rear of a grander
basilica, which was built in 1906
Mary Baker Eddy to seat 5,000 worshipers. The
Born in Concord, New Hampshire in 1821, Mary Baker was plagued basilica houses the western
with poor health for much of her early life. Fearing death after a hemisphere’s largest pipe organ,
severe fall in 1866, she sought comfort in her Bible, where she manufactured in Boston by
found an account of how Jesus had healed a palsied man. Her the Aeolian-Skinner Company.
own miraculous recovery led her to the principle of Christian Between 1968 and 1973 the
Science, a doctrine which emphasizes spiritual regeneration Christian Science complex
and healing through prayer alone. In 1875 she published expanded to its present design,
her ideas in Science and Health with Key to the which includes an elegant office
Scriptures, the textbook of Christian Science, tower, a reflecting pool, and a
and gathered students around her, monumental plaza.
including Asa Gilbert Eddy, whom she
The Mary Baker Eddy Library
married in 1877. Two years later she
organized the First Church of Christ,
for the Betterment of Humanity,
Scientist, in Boston, from which on the Massachusetts Ave side
Christian Science churches spread of the complex, emphasizes
across the world. Mrs. Eddy remained Eddy’s inspiration rather than
the active leader of the Christian church doctrine. Visitors can
Science movement until her death in peer through a glass wall into
1910. She is buried at Mount Auburn the newsroom of the Christian
Cemetery in Cambridge. Science Monitor. The most
popular exhibit is the
Mapparium, where visitors

literally walk through the globe
viewing the planet from the
inside. The different colors
represent the world’s political
boundaries of 1935.
r Copley Place
Huntington Ave & Dartmouth St.
Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 262-6600.  Back
Bay/South End, Copley. Open 10am–
8pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun. 7
Copley Place is a creation of late

20th-century urban develop-
ment, with hotels, an upscale
shopping center, and restaurants.
Offices and luxury apartments
are also part of the development, Bow-fronted, red-brick houses, typical of South End’s Union Park
which rises on land created
above the Massachusetts by 400-ft (121-m) painting y Union Park
Turnpike. Copley Place bears The Battle of Gettysburg by the Tremont & Shawmut Sts. Map 4 D4.
little relation to Copley Square, French artist Paul Philippoteaux.  Back Bay/South End. 7
but the shopping mall was a The painting was removed in
success from the day it opened 1889 and is now displayed at Union Park is the green gem
in 1984 and still ranks as Gettysburg National Military of the South End, built from
Boston’s most luxurious indoor Park. The Cyclorama now 1857 to 1859 when the neigh-
shopping mall. Its stores serves as a performance and borhood was still fashionable.
include the jeweler Tiffany & exhibition space. South End property values
Co. and the status-conscious The Stanford Calderwood crashed in the Panic of 1873,
department store Neiman Pavilion, with a 360-seat and and the entire district, Union
Marcus (see p153). a 200-seat theater, opened in Park included, became tene-
2004 as the first new theater ment housing for immigrants
built in Boston in 75 years. arriving from eastern Europe
t Boston Center The Mills Gallery houses and the Middle East. The South
for the Arts exhibitions focusing on End remains broadly mixed
539 Tremont St. Map 4 D3. Tel (617)
emerging contemporary artists, by ethnicity, race, and sexual
426-5000.  Back Bay/ South End. with the emphasis on multi- orientation. The handsome
Cyclorama: Open call for hours. Mills media installations and shows town houses along Union Park
Gallery: Open noon–5pm Wed & Sun, with confrontational, often led the South End’s economic
noon–9pm Thu–Sat. Closed public provocative, themes. resurgence in the 1970s, and
hols. & for performances. ^ 7 it has become, once
∑ bcaonline.org again, a coveted
address. A pair of
The centerpiece of a resurgent fountains, an iron
South End, the BCA complex fence, and large shade
includes four stages, an art trees present a truly
gallery, and artists’ studios parklike setting for the
as well as the Boston Ballet beautifully restored
Building, home to the com- brick row houses.
pany’s educational programs, The 19th-century
rehearsal space, and ornamental ironwork
administrative offices. on and around these
The Tremont Estates Building houses is particularly
at the corner of Tremont Street, prized by architecture
an organ factory in the years buffs. Union Park is
after the Civil War, now houses strictly residential,
artists’ studios, rehearsal space, although there are a
and an art gallery. few small shops, and
The largest of the BCA restaurants which have
buildings is the circular, domed become very popular
Cyclorama, which opened in Red-brick façade of the Boston Center for the Arts, site for Saturday and
1884 to exhibit the 50-ft (15-m) of theaters and exhibition spaces Sunday brunch.
FARTHER AFIELD
The late 19th and 20th centuries saw Boston “People’s Democratic Republic of Cambridge,”
expand out of the central colonial and a reference to the politics of Harvard and the
Victorian city into the surrounding area. The Massachusetts Institute of Technology, its
old marshlands of the Fenway now house two major colleges. Harvard Square is a lively
two of Boston’s most important art museums, area of bookstores, cafés, and street enter-
the Museum of Fine Arts and the Isabella tainers. Charlestown is the site of the Bunker
Stewart Gardner Museum. Southeast of the Hill Monument and the Charlestown Navy
city center, Columbia Point was developed Yard, where the U.S.’s most famous warship,
in the mid-20th century and is home to the the U.S.S. Constitution, is moored. Farther
John F. Kennedy Library and Museum. West northwest lie historic Concord and Lexington,
of central Boston, across the Charles River, where the first major battles of the
lies Cambridge, sometimes referred to as the Revolutionary War took place in 1775.
Sights at a Glance
Towns 5 Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum
7 Cambridge 6 Museum of Fine Arts,
8 Charlestown Boston pp106–9
9 Concord Gardens and Zoos
0 Lexington
2 Franklin Park Zoo
Museums and Historic Sites 3 Arnold Arboretum
1 John F. Kennedy Library
Key
and Museum
4 John F. Kennedy National Main sightseeing area
Historic Site Urban area
Highway
Major road
0 kilometers 4 Minor road
0 miles 2 Railroad
Lynn
3 38 Saugus
Concord
95 Lexington 1
Winchester
1A
2
93
Malden
Broad
Arlington Sound
Revere
16
1
Chelsea
95
Belmont Somerville 1A
28
Watertown Winthrop
Logan
Cambridge International
20
Waltham Boston
90
90 Newton
9
203 93
9 28
Natick Brookline
Wellesley
Roxbury
Quincy
Bay
Needham 95
Dedham 93
set
on
p
28
Quincy
Ne
138 Milton
The Harvard University campus in Cambridge For keys to symbols see back flap
1 John F. Kennedy space program and

Library and Museum the founding of the
Peace Corps. The
Columbia Point, Dorchester. Tel (617) combination of
5141600.  JFK/U Mass. Open 9am– artifacts, displays,
5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving,
and television
Dec 25. & 7 8 9
∑ jfklibrary.org
footage evoke both
the euphoria of
The soaring white concrete “Camelot” and the
and glass building of the John numb horror of
F. Kennedy Library stands the assassination.
sentinel on Columbia Point, Two of the
near the mouth of the Boston president’s brothers
Harbor. Exhibitions chronicle are also recognized Lowland gorilla with her baby in the simulated natural
the 1,000 days of the Kennedy for their contribu environment of Franklin Park Zoo
presidency and include a tions to American
recreation of the Oval Office. history. Within the Kennedy 2 Franklin Park Zoo
Kennedy was among the first Library, the recreated office 1 Franklin Park Rd. Tel (617) 5415466.
politicians to grasp the power of Attorney General Robert F.  Forest Hills. @ 16 from Forest Hills
of media. The museum takes Kennedy touches on both his subway. Open Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm
full advantage of film and video deft handling of race relations Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat–Sun; Oct–
footage to let the president’s and his key advisory role to Mar: 10am–4pm daily. Closed Jan 1,
own words and images tell his his brother. Adjacent to the Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & 7
story, including his campaign library, the Edward M. Kennedy ∑ zoonewengland.com
for the Democratic Party Institute for the United States
nomination and landmark Senate opened in 2015. Tours, The zoo, originally planned
television debates with exhibits, and a fullscale as a small menagerie, has
Republican opponent Richard recreation of the U.S. Senate expanded dramatically over
M. Nixon. Gripping film clips Chamber in Washington, D.C., the past century and long
capture the anxiety of nuclear promote understanding of ago discarded caged enclosures
brinksmanship during the the legislative process and in favor of simulated natural
Cuban Missile Crisis, as well as celebrate Kennedy’s 46 years environments. Lowland gorillas
the inspirational spirit of the as senator. roam a forest edge with caves
for privacy, lions lounge
around a rocky kingdom while
zebras, ostriches, and giraffes
are free to graze on open
grassland. Bird’s World, a
structure dating from the zoo’s
1913 opening, features a free
flight cage with dozens of
species of birds. Youngsters
can interact with farm animals
in a small petting zoo. A new
children’s zoo is scheduled to
open in 2017.
3 Arnold Arboretum
125 Arborway, Jamaica Plain. Tel (617)
5241718.  Forest Hills. @ 39.
Open sunrise–sunset daily. Visitors
Center: Open 10am–5pm Thu–Tue.
Closed public hols. 7 8
∑ arboretum.harvard.edu
Founded by Harvard University

in 1872 as a living catalog of
all the indigenous and exotic
trees and shrubs adaptable to
New England’s climate, the
Arboretum is planted with
more than 15,000 labeled
Dramatic, modern structure of the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum specimens. It is the oldest
FA R T H E R A F I E L D  105
arboretum in the U.S. and turned her wealth

a key resource for botanical to collecting art in
and horticultural research. the late 19th century,
The Arboretum also serves acquiring a notable
as a park where people jog, collection of Old
stroll, read, and paint. Masters and Italian
The park’s busiest time is Renaissance pieces.
on Lilac Sunday in May, when Titian’s Rape of Europa,
tens of thousands come to for example, is
revel in the sight and fragrance considered his best
of the lilac collection, one painting in a U.S.
of the largest in the world. museum. The eccentric
The range of the Arboretum’s “Mrs. Jack” had an eye
collections guarantees for her contemporaries.
flowers from late March into as well. She purchased
November, beginning with the first Matisse to
cornelian cherry and forsythia. enter an American
Blooms shift in late May collection and was
to azalea, magnolia, and an ardent patron of
wisteria, then to mountain James McNeill Whistler
laurel and roses in June. and John Singer
Sweet autumn clematis Sargent. The paintings,
bursts forth in September, sculptures, and
and native witch hazel blooms Central courtyard of the palazzo-style Isabella Stewart tapestries are displayed
in October and November. Gardner Museum on three levels around
The Arboretum also has fine a stunning skylit
fall foliage in September 5 Isabella Stewart courtyard. Mrs. Gardner’s will
and October. Gardner Museum stipulates the collection should
A large scale model of remain assembled in the manner
the Arboretum can be seen 25 Evans Way. Tel (617) 5661401. she originally intended. However,
 MFA. Open 11am–5pm Wed–
in the Visitors’ Information today, blank spaces can be seen
Mon (to 9pm Thu). Closed Jan 1,
Center, which is just inside where thieves stole 13 priceless
Thanksgiving, Dec 25. & ^
the main gate. works in 1990. Amongst the
8 Call for concert schedule.
∑ gardnermuseum.org
stolen art was a rare Rembrandt,
Storm on the Sea of Galilee, then
4 John F. Kennedy The only thing more surprising conservatively valued at $200
National Historic than a Venetian palazzo on million. A $120 million expan
Site The Fenway is the collection sion designed by Renzo Piano
of more than 2,500 works of opened in 2012, providing space
83 Beals St, Brookline. Tel (617) 566 art inside. Advised by scholar for special exhibitions, concerts,
7937.  Coolidge Corner. Open late Bernard Berenson, the strong educational programs, and
May–Oct: 9:30am–5pm Wed–Sun.
willed Isabella Stewart Gardner landscape classes.
Closed Thanksgiving. ^ 7 8 9
∑ nps.gov/jofi
The first home of the late The Emerald Necklace

president’s parents, this Best known as designer of New York’s
Brookline house saw the Central Park, Frederick Law Olmsted
birth of four of nine Kennedy based himself in Boston, where he
children, including J.F.K. on created parks to solve environmental
May 29, 1917. Although the problems and provide a green refuge
Kennedys moved to a larger for inhabitants of the 19thcentury
house in 1921, the Beals industrial city. The Emerald Necklace
Street residence held special includes the green spaces of Boston
memories for the family, Common and the Public Garden (see
who repurchased the house pp48–9) and Commonwealth Avenue
in 1966 and furnished it with (see p95). To create a ring of parks,
their belongings circa 1917 as Olmsted added the Back Bay Fens (site Jamaica Pond, part of Boston’s
a memorial to John F. Kennedy. of beautiful rose gardens and gateway fine parklands
The guided tour includes to the Museum of Fine Arts and the
reminiscences of J.F.K.’s mother Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum), the rustic Riverway, Jamaica Pond
Rose. A walking tour takes in (sailing and picnicking), Arnold Arboretum, and Franklin Park (a golf
other neighborhood sites course, zoo, and crosscountry ski trails). The 7mile (11km) swath of
relevant to the Kennedy parkland makes an excellent bicycle tour or ambitious walk.
family’s early years.
6Museum of Fine
Arts, Boston
The largest art museum in New England and one
of the largest in the United States, its collection
includes around 450,000 items, ranging from Egyptian
artifacts to paintings by John Singer Sargent. The American Silver
original 1909 Beaux Arts-style MFA building was The revolutionary Paul Revere
augmented in 1981 by the addition of the Linde Family (see p23) was also a noted
silversmith and produced
wing, designed by I.M. Pei. The $500 million Art of many beautiful objects,
the Americas wing, designed by architect Norman such as this ornate teapot.
Foster, has given new life to the museum housing
53 galleries and displaying over 5,000 works of art.
. Japanese Temple Room

This room was created in
1909 to provide a space in
which to contemplate
Buddhist art. The MFA has
one of the finest Japanese
collections outside Japan.
Fenway
Entrance
. Egyptian Mummies
Among the museum’s
Egyptian and Nubian art
is this tomb group of Calderwood
Nes-mut-aat-neru Courtyard
(767–656 BC) of Thebes.
Shapiro
Courtyard
Huntington
Entrance
. Copley Portraits
John Singleton Copley
(1738–1815) painted the
celebrities of his day, hence
this portrait of a dandyish Lower
John Hancock (see p23). Ground
Head of Aphrodite
This rare example of Ancient
Greek sculpture dates from
about 330–300 BC.
Avenue of the Arts,
465 Huntington Ave.
Level 3 Tel (617) 267-9300.
∑ mfa.org
Open 10am–10pm Wed–Fri,
10am–5pm Sat–Tue.
Closed most public hols. & 7
8 9 Lectures, concerts, and
films: 0 - =
Transport
 MFA.
Sargent Murals
John Singer Sargent spent the last years of
his life creating artwork for the MFA.
Originally commissioned to produce three
paintings, Sargent instead constructed these
elaborate murals, which were unveiled in
Level 2 1921 and can still be seen today. He went
on to create the works of art in the adjacent
colonnade up until his death in 1925.
Key
Art of Europe
Contemporary Art
Art of Asia, Oceania, and Africa
Art of the Ancient World
Level 1 Art of the Americas
Special/Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space
Gallery Guide
The Linde Family wing (west
side) displays Contemporary
art and houses a restaurant
and the museum store. Eur
opean, Classical, Far Eastern,
and Egyptian art and artifacts
occupy the original MFA build . Impressionist Paintings
ing. Arts from North, Central, Boston collectors were among
and South America are displayed the first to appreciate French
over four levels of the Art of Impressionism. Dance at
the Americas wing. Works on Bougival (1883) by Renoir is
display are subject to change. typical of the MFA collection.
Exploring the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston

In addition to the major collections noted below, the
European Paintings,
Museum of Fine Arts has important holdings in the arts Decorative Arts
of Africa, Oceania, and the ancient Americas. The museum and Sculpture
also houses collections of works on paper, contemporary This collection of European
art, and musical instruments. Several galleries are devoted paintings and sculpture ranges
to temporary thematic exhibitions. Other features of from the 7th to the late 20th
the museum include a seminar room, lecture hall, and century. It showcases numerous
well-stocked bookstore. There are regular talks, artist masterpieces by English, Dutch,
French, Italian, and Spanish
demonstrations, and events at the museum; check
artists, including various
the website for the latest information. portraits by the 17thcentury
Dutch painter Rembrandt. The
collection of works from 1550
to 1700 is impressive both for
the quality of art and for its
size, which includes Francisco
de Zurbarán, El Greco, Paolo
Veronese, Titian, and Peter
Paul Rubens.
Boston’s 19thcentury
collectors enriched the MFA
with wonderful French painting:
the museum features several
paintings by JeanFrançois
Millet (the MFA has, in fact, the
largest collection of his work in
the world) as well as by other
wellknown 19thcentury
Boston Harbor by the Luminist painter Fitz Henry Lane (1804–65) French artists, such as Edouard
Manet, PierreAuguste Renoir,
by other late 19thcentury and Edgar Degas. Among this
Art of the America’s artists who constituted the collection are the hugely
Collection “Boston School.” Other notable popular and infamous Waterlilies
The MFA’s Art of the Americas highlights include seascapes (1905) by Claude Monet and
wing features work from the by Winslow Homer and the Dance at Bougival (1883) by
birth of the United States muscular figure portraiture of Renoir. The MFA’s Monet
through to the third quarter Thomas Eakins. The MFA also holdings are among the world’s
of the 20th century. The exhibits works by 20thcentury largest, and there is also a good
collection includes master masters such as Stuart Davis, collection of paintings by the
pieces of both ancient and Jackson Pollock, Georgia Dutch artist Vincent van Gogh.
contemporary Native American O’Keeffe, and Arthur Dove. Early 20thcentury European
art. Designed by the English The museum’s holdings art is also exhibited.
architect Norman Foster, of American silver are
the wing showcases approxi superb. In addition to
mately 5,000 works produced works by John Coney,
in North, Central, and there are two cases
South America. containing tea
The Colonial period in U.S. services and other
art is well represented, with pieces by Paul Revere
more than 60 portraits by (see p75). The MFA
John Singleton Copley, also traces the
perhaps America’s most development of the
talented 18thcentury painter, Boston style of
as well as works by Charles 18thcentury furniture
Wilson Peale. Other works through a definitive
on display are 19thcentury collection of desks,
landscapes, including harbor high chests, and tall
scenes by Fitz Henry Lane, an clocks. Its famed
early Luminist painter; lush period rooms display
society portraits by John decorative arts in a La Berceuse by the Dutch painter Vincent Van Gogh
Singer Sargent; and paintings historical context. (1853–90)
highlight the influence of

Greek arts on both Etruscan
and Roman art. The Etruscan
collection has several
carved sarcophagi, gold
jewelry, bronze mirrors, and
colorful terracottas, while
the Roman collection features
grave markers, portrait busts,
and a series of wall panel
paintings unearthed in
Part of the Processional Way of Ancient Babylonia (6th century BC) Pompeii on an MFA expedition
in 1900–1901.
The MFA is well known for encompass gold and silver
its extensive collection of artifacts, ceramics, and jewels.
European decorative arts. Other highlights from Asian Art
Tableware, ceramics, and glass the Egyptian and Nubian The Asian collection is one of
clustered by period from collections include two the most extensive that can
the early 17th to early 20th monumental sculptures of be found under one roof.
centuries are some examples Nubian kings from the Great A range of works from India,
of the works exhibited. Pain- Temple of Amen at Napata the Near East and Central
stakingly transferred medieval (620–586 BC and 600– Asia are exhibited. Among
stained-glass windows, beau- 580 BC). A few of the the highlights are Indian
tifully illuminated bibles, and galleries are set sculpture and changing
delicate French tapestries are up to re-create exhibitions
displayed alongside works Nubian burial of Islamic
by Old Masters. chambers, which miniature
Some of the museum’s most allows cuneiform paintings and
prized decorative arts include wall carvings to Indian narrative
the opulent displays of 18th- be displayed in paintings. Elsewhere,
century French silver housed something akin works from Korea
in the Louis XVI-style gallery, to an original feature some Buddhist
and some of the world’s setting; a superb Tang Dynasty paintings and sculptures,
most extensive holdings of example is the offering Chinese Horse jewelry, and ornaments.
Chinese export porcelain. chapel of Sekhem- (8th century) The museum also
ankh-Ptah from boasts calligraphy,
Sakkara (2450–2350 BC). ceramics, and stone sculptures
Ancient Egyptian, Nubian from China and the largest
and Near Eastern Art collection of Japanese prints
The MFA’s collection of Classical Art outside Japan. Extensive
Egyptian and Nubian materials The MFA boasts one of holdings and limited display
is unparalleled outside of America’s top collections of space mean that specific
Africa, and derives primarily Greek ceramics. In particular exhibitions change often,
from MFA-Harvard University the red-and black-figured but the MFA’s exhibitions of
excavations along the Nile, vases dating from the 6th Japanese and Chinese scroll
which began in 1905. One and 5th centuries BC are and screen paintings are,
of the highlights is a 1998 exceptional. The Classical nevertheless, unmatched in
installation showing Egyptian galleries of the museum are the West. The strength of the
Funerary Arts, which uses intended to thematically MFA’s Japanese art collection
the MFA’s superb collec- is largely due to the efforts
tion of mummies from of collectors such as Ernest
nearly three millennia to Fenollosa and William Sturgis
illustrate the technical and Bigelow. In the 19th century
art historical aspects of they encouraged the Japanese
Egyptian burial practices. to maintain their traditions,
Also on display are some and salvaged Buddhist temple
exceptional Babylonian, art when the Japanese
Assyrian, and Sumerian imperial government had
reliefs. Works from ancient withdrawn subsidies from
Nubia, the cultural region these institutions. This
around the Nile stretching collection is considered to
roughly between the contain some of the finest
modern African cities of Roman fresco, excavated from a Pompeian villa examples of Asian temple
Aswan and Khartoum, (1st century AD) art in the world.
7 Cambridge
Part of the greater Boston metropolitan area, Cambridge is,
nonetheless, a city in its own right, and has the mood and feel
of such. Principally a college town, it is dominated by Harvard
University and other college campuses. It also boasts a
number of important historic sights, such as Christ Church
and Cambridge Common, which have associations back to
the American Revolution. Harvard Square is the area’s main
entertainment and shopping district.
P Longfellow National P Harvard Square Site of the Washington Elm, on

Historic Site Tel(617) 491-3434. 7 Cambridge Common
105 Brattle St. Tel (617) 876-4491. ∑ harvardsquare.com
Open Jun–Oct: 9:30am–5pm Wed– Even Bostonians think of P Cambridge Common
Sun. & ^ 7 8 Harvard Square as a stand-in for Set aside as common pasture
∑ nps.gov/long Cambridge – the square was and military drill ground in 1631,
This house on Brattle Street, like the original site of Cambridge Cambridge Common has
many around it, was built by from around 1630. Dominating served as a center for religious,
Colonial-era merchants loyal the square is the Harvard social, and political activity ever
to the British Crown during Cooperative Society (“the since. George Washington took
the Revolution. It was Coop”), a Harvard command of the Continental
seized by American institution, that sells Army here on July 3, 1775,
revolutionaries and inexpensive clothes, beneath the Washington Elm,
served as George posters, and books. now marked by a stone. The
Washington’s head- Harvard’s large common served as the army’s
quarters during the student population is encampment from 1775 to
Siege of Boston. very much in evidence 1776. Today the ball fields and
The poet Henry here, adding color to playgrounds are popular with
Wadsworth Longfellow the character of the families. In 1997 the first
boarded here in 1837, square. Many trendy monument in the U.S. to the
was given the house as Street musician, boutiques, inexpen- victims of the Irish Famine was
a wedding present in Harvard Square sive restaurants, and unveiled on the common.
1843, and lived here numerous cafés
until his death in 1882. He cater to their needs. Street R Christ Church
wrote his most famous poems performers abound, especially Garden St. Tel (617) 876-0200.
here, including Tales of a Wayside on the weekends, and the Open 8am–6pm Sun–Fri, 8am–
Inn and The Song of Hiawatha. square has long been a place 3pm Sat. 5 7:45am, 10:15am Sun;
Longfellow’s status as literary where pop trends begin. Club 12:10pm Wed; 8am Thu. ^ 7
dean of Boston meant that Passim (see p162), for example, ∑ cccambridge.org
Nathaniel Hawthorne and has incubated many successful With its square bell tower and
Charles Sumner, among others, singer-songwriters since Joan plain, gray shingled edifice, Christ
were regular visitors. Baez first debuted here in 1959. Church is a restrained example
of an Anglican church. Designed
in 1761 by Peter Harrison, the
architect of Boston’s King’s
Chapel (see p60), Christ Church
came in for rough treatment as
a barracks for Continental Army
troops in 1775 – British loyalists
had almost all fled Cambridge by
this time. The army even melted
down the organ pipes to cast
musket balls. The church was
restored on New Year’s Eve, 1775,
when George Washington and
his wife Martha were among
the worshipers. Anti-Anglican
sentiment remained strong in
Cambridge, and Christ Church
did not have its own rector again
Simple interior of Christ Church, designed prior to the Revolution in 1761 until the 19th century.
CAMBRIDGE  111
P Radcliffe Institute for architecture. The library’s VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Advanced Study most famous holdings are
Brattle St. Tel (617) 495-8601. 7 an extensive collection of Practical Information
∑ radcliffe.edu cookbooks and reference n Harvard Square Information
Radcliffe College was founded works on gastronomy. Booth: Tel (617) 497-1630,
in 1879 as the Collegiate Cambridge Office of Tourism:
Institution for Women, when P MIT Tel (800) 862-5678, (617) 441-2884.
∑ harvard.edu or
27 women began to study 77 Massachusetts Ave. Tel (617) 253-
4795. MIT Museum: Open 10am– ∑ cambridgeusa.org
by private arrangement with
5pm daily. & Hart Nautical Gallery: ( Sun. _ River Festival
Harvard professors. By 1943,
Open 10am–5pm daily. List Visual (early June.)
members of Harvard’s faculty
no longer taught separate Arts Center Open noon–6pm Tue– Transport
undergraduate courses to the Sun (to 8pm Thu). ^ 7 8  Harvard. @ 1, 69.
∑ mit.edu
women of Radcliffe, and in
1999 Radcliffe ceased its Chartered in 1861 to teach
official existence as an students “exactly and thor- represented by Alvar Aalto’s
independent college. It is oughly the fundamental seminal Baker House dormitory
now an institute for advanced principles of positive science (1949). Eero Saarinen’s com-
study promoting with application pressed arches make Kresge
scholarship of to the industrial Auditorium (1955) seem poised
women’s culture. arts,” the for flight. The spare lines of Kresge
The first Radcliffe Massachusetts Chapel (1955) embody ascetic
building was the Institute of faith. The Wiesner building houses
1806 Federal-style Technology has the List Visual Arts Center,
mansion, Fay evolved into one noted for its avant-garde art.
House, on the of the world’s The Hart Nautical Gallery in
northern corner leading universities the Rogers Building focuses
of what became in engineering on marine engineering, with
Radcliffe Yard. and the sciences. models of ships and exhibits
Schlesinger Several architec- of the latest advances in
Library, on the tural masterpieces underwater research. The MIT
west side of the dot MIT’s 135-acre Museum blends art and science,
yard, is con- (55-ha) campus with exhibits such as Harold
sidered a signifi- along the Charles Edgerton’s ground-breaking
cant example of Stained glass, River. Finnish stroboscopic flash photographs,
Colonial Revival Radcliffe Institute Modernism is and the latest holographic art.
Harvard University
Environs
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Harvard Yard
In 1636 boston’s well-educated Puritan leaders founded
a college in newtowne. two years later cleric John
Harvard died and bequeathed half his estate and all Holden Chapel
his books to the fledgling college. the colony’s leaders Built in 1742, the chapel was the
bestowed his name on the school and rechristened scene of revolutionary speeches and
the surrounding community Cambridge after the was later used as a demonstration
hall for human dissections.
english city where they had been educated. the oldest
university in the U.s., Harvard is now one of the world’s
most prestigious centers of learning. the university
has expanded to encompass more than 400 buildings,
but Harvard yard is still at its heart.
. Old Harvard Yard

This leafy yard dates from
the founding of the college
in 1636. Freshman dormi
tories are around the yard,
and throughout the year it
is a focal point for students.
Harvard University
Information Center
. John Harvard Statue

This statue celebrates Harvard’s most
famous benefactor. Almost a place
of pilgrimage, graduates and visitors
invariably pose for photographs here.
. Widener Library
This library memorializes Harry
Elkins Widener who died on
the Titanic in 1912. With more
than 3 million volumes, it is the
third largest library in the U.S.
cambridge  113
. Memorial Church ViSitorS’ CHeCkliSt

This church was built in
1931 and copies earlier Practical Information
styles. For example, the Massachusetts Ave.
steeple is modeled on ∑ harvard.edu
that of the Old North open 24 hrs. 7 9 8 Mon–
Church (see p73) in Sat (call for details.) Harvard
Boston’s North End. Information Center: tel (617)
495-1573. Harvard Box Office:
tel (617) 496-2222. Harvard Film
Archive: tel (617) 495 4700.
Transport
 Harvard.
Peabody Museum and

Harvard Museum of
Natural History (see
pp116–17)
Sever Hall
One of the most distinctive
of Harvard’s Halls, this
Romanesque style-building
was designed by Henry
Hobson Richardson (see p34).
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
keY
1 University Hall, designed by Union casualties from the Civil War.

Charles Bulfinch, was built in 1816. 5 Harvard Art Museums (see
2 Massachusetts Hall, built in pp114–15)
1720, is Harvard’s oldest building. 6 Carpenter Center for Visual Arts
3 Hollis Hall was used as a barracks was opened in 1963. This is the only
by George Washington’s troops building in the U.S. designed by
during the American Revolution. the avant-garde Swiss architect
Le Corbusier.
4 Memorial Hall, a Ruskin Gothic
building, memorializes Harvard’s 7 tercentenary theater
Harvard University Museums world. Keep an eye out for

stunning 12th-century capitals
Harvard’s museums were originally conceived to revolutionize from Moutiers St-Jean in
the process of education; students were to be taught by Burgundy, France.
allowing them access to artifacts from around the world. Today, Aficionados revel in the
Fogg’s extensive collection,
this tradition continues, with the museums housing some of some of which prefigure the
the world’s finest university collections: art from Europe and Italian Renaissance. The
America in the Fogg, Sackler, and Busch-Reisinger Museums; massive altarpieces and
archaeological finds in the Peabody Museum; Asian, Islamic suspended crucifix are
and Indian art in the Sackler Museum, and a vast collection particularly impressive.
Highlights include galleries
of artifacts in the Harvard Museum of Natural History.
devoted to 17th-century
Dutch, Flemish, French, and
Italian paintings, including
four studies for Francesco
Trevisiani’s Massacre of the
Innocents, a masterpiece
destroyed in Dresden during
World War II. Art students
carefully examine Gian
Lorenzo Bernini’s use of clay
models for his large-scale
marble and bronze sculpture.
The museum also features
several works that examine
the emergence of landscape
Exterior view of the renovated Harvard Art Museums as a subject in French
19th-century painting.
Harvard Art Museums Art Museum was created in To many observers, one of
32 Quincy St. Tel (617) 495-9400. 1895 when Harvard began to the Fogg’s most outstanding
Open 10am–5pm daily. & 7 8 build its own art collection in features is the Maurice
∑ artmuseums.harvard.edu order to teach art history more Wertheim collection of
Formerly housed in separate effectively. Both the Fogg and Impressionist and Post-
buildings, the Fogg, Busch- the Busch-Reisinger have Impressionist art, most of
Reisinger, and Arthur Sackler select collections of art from it collected in the late 1930s.
Museums now occupy a single Europe and America. With a number of important
expanded facility designed The collections, which focus paintings by Renoir, Manet, and
by renowned Italian architect, on Western art from the late Degas, the Wertheim gallery
Renzo Piano. Middle Ages to the present, is the Fogg’s most popular.
The stunning, eco-friendly are among the most lauded Also of note is the Grenville
complex was designed to to be found on a university L. Winthrop Collection, which
provide greater access to campus anywhere in the was donated to Harvard in
the museums’ collections. 1943 and includes more than
New resources have been 4,000 items. Visitors and
created for study, teaching, students carefully study
conser vation, and exhibition. paintings, sculpture, and
The heart of the facility is the drawings by some of the most
Calderwood Courtyard, from important names of the 19th
which the guests can access century such as William Blake,
the various collections. The Jacques-Louis David, Honoré
space has been modeled after Daumier, Winslow Homer,
the façade of the 15th-century Auguste Rodin, John Singer
Church of San Biagio in Sargent, Henri de Toulouse-
Montepulciano, Italy. It is open Lautrec, and James Abbott
to the public free of charge, McNeill Whistler.
as are the adjoining museum Surprises lurk in a gallery
shop and cafe. of art made in France 1885–
Harvard’s strong relationship 1960, often by expatriate
with the arts dates back to artists. Edvard Munch’s 1891
1874, when the school painting of Rue de Rivoli, for
appointed Charles Eliot Norton example, is both bright and
as the first professor of art Light-Space Modulator (1923–30) by the impressionistic, in contrast
history in America. The Fogg Hungarian Moholy-Nagy with his bleak Expressionism.
CAMBRIDGE  115
The Busch-Reisinger impresses

scholars and serious collectors
with its significant examples
of German Expressionism,
Austrian Secession art, 1920s
abstraction, and medieval
sculpture. Also noteworthy is
the variety of renowned post-
war and contemporary art from
the likes of Georg Baselitz,
Anselm Kiefer, Gerhard Richter,
and Joseph Beuys.
Named after a famous
philanthropist, physician, and Skating (1877) by French Impressionist
art collector, the Arthur M. painter Edouard Manet
Sackler Museum is home to
Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s clay model Harvard’s amazing collection encounter the Lightbox Gallery.
of a kneeling angel (1674–75) of ancient, Asian, Islamic, and The new facility, which show-
later Indian art. cases the intersection of art and
The Fogg Art Museum also The Sackler holds the largest technology, gives visitors a view
houses rotating displays from collection of archaic Chinese into conservation labs. Another
its collection of 19th- and jades outside of China. Also on notable aspect of the new
20th-century African art. In display are Japanese surimono building is the Art Study Center,
addition special exhibitions (woodblock print) and works which provides students,
are frequently held, often on paper, Chinese bronzes, faculty, and the public with
focusing on drawings and ceremonial weapons, Buddhist various opportunities to
graphic arts. cave-temple sculptures, and examine original works of art
The Busch-Reisinger Museum, ceramics from China and Korea. from the museums’ collections.
which was founded in 1903 as Notable works in various forms, A 300-seat lecture hall serves
the school’s Germanic Museum, such as vases, bronzes, and as a modern space in which
focuses on the country’s art coins from Greece, Rome, to hold various events, presen-
and design from after 1880, Egypt, and the Near East tations, and performances,
with an emphasis on German and be found in the ancient many of which are open
Expressionism. In fact, the Mediterranean and Byzantine to the public.
Busch-Reisinger is North collections. Also of note are The museum complex also
America’s only facility devoted works on paper (e.g. paintings, houses the Straus Center for
solely to the art of the German- drawings, calligraphy, and Conservation and Technical
speaking regions of central manuscript illustrations) from Studies – the first fine arts
and northern Europe. One of Islamic lands and India, conservation, research, and
the chief exhibits of the including important Islamic training facility established
museum is the Light-Space ceramics from the 8th through in America. The center’s glass
Modulator (1923-30) created 19th century. walls allow visitors to observe
by Hungarian painter and At the top level of the Harvard various conservation and
sculptor Moholy-Nagy. Harvard Art Museums complex, visitors research activities.
was a safe haven for many
Bauhaus artists, architects,
and designers who fled Nazi
Germany, and both Walter
Gropius and Lyonel Feininger
chose the Busch-Reisinger as
the depository of their personal
papers and drawings.
Periodic exhibitions explore
aspects of the work and
philosophy of the Bauhaus
movement. Although it doesn’t
offer the largest collection,
this museum owns major
paintings and sculptures by
20th-century masters such
as Max Beckmann, Wassily
Kandinsky, Moholy-Nagy, Paul
Klee, Oskar Kokoschka, Emil
Nolde, and Franz Marc. Glass-roofed Calderwood Courtyard, the center stage of the museums
Peabody Museum of Harvard Museum

Archaeology and Ethnology of Natural History
11 Divinity Ave. Tel (617) 496-1027. 26 Oxford St. Tel (617) 495-3045.
Open 9am–5pm daily. Closed Jan 1, Open 9am–5pm daily.
Thanksgiving, Dec 24, 25. & 7 8 Closed Jul 4, Thanksgiving, Dec
∑ peabody.harvard.edu 24, 25. & 7 8
∑ hmnh.harvard.edu
The Peabody Museum of
Archaeology and Ethnology The Harvard Museum of
was founded in 1866 as the Natural History is actually
first museum in the Americas three museums rolled into one,
devoted solely to anthro- with collections from the
pology. The many collections, Mineralogical and Geological
which include several Museum, the Museum of
million artifacts and Comparative Zoology, Triceratops skull in the Harvard Museum
more than 500,000 and the Botanical of Natural History
photographic images, Museum.
come from all around The mineralogical different bird families. Bird
the world. The Pea- galleries include some watchers greatly enjoy infor-
body’s pioneering of Harvard University’s mative exhibits detailing the
investigations began oldest specimen latest breakthroughs and
with excavations of collections. Virtually scientific discoveries in the
Mayan sites in Central every New England world of ornithology.
America, research on mineral, rock, and gem The collections in the
the precontact Anasazi type is represented, botanical galleries include the
people of the including rough and Ware Collection of Blaschka
American Southwest, cut gemstones and one Glass Models of Plants,
and on the cultural of the world’s premier popularly known as the “glass
history of the later meteorite collections. flowers.” Between 1887 and
Pueblo tribes of the The zoological galleries 1936, father and son artisans
same region. Joint owe their inception to Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka
expeditions the great 19th-century created these 4,000 exacting
sponsored by the biologist Louis Agassiz models of 830 plant species.
Peabody Museum and include his Each species is illustrated with
and the Museum of personal arachnid a scientifically accurate lifesize
Fine Arts (see pp106–9) collection. The model and magnified parts.
also uncovered some collection of taxi- The museum offers an array
of the richest finds of dermied bird, mam- of free public lectures and
dynastic and pre- mal, and reptile presentations by leading
dynastic Egypt. Later Native American totem specimens is compre- biologists, conservationists,
research embraced pole, Peabody Museum hensive, and there is and authors. Also of note is
the cultures of the also a collection of the museum’s travel program,
islands of the South Pacific. dinosaur skeletons. The Birds in which Harvard science faculty
The Native American of the World gallery features leads small groups of visitors
tribes of North America are hundreds of rare specimens, to experience global centers
represented in considerable representing more than 200 of biodiversity.
detail in “Change and
Continuity: Hall of the
American Indian.” Exhibits
outline the distinct and
different ways of life in
indigenous culture areas of
the Northeast, Southeast,
Southwest, Plains, California/
Plateau, Northwest Coast,
Arctic, and Subarctic. Emphasis
is placed on Native life during
the 19th century, when each
group came in contact – and
sometimes conflict – with
European culture. The exhibits,
which include masterful totem-
pole carvings, also highlight
aspects of contemporary
Native American culture. Visitors at the botanical gallery of Harvard Museum of Natural History
8 Charlestown VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Situated on the north bank of the Charles River, directly opposite Practical Information
 Community College.
the North End, Charlestown exudes history. The site of the
( Wed.
infamous Battle of Bunker Hill, when American troops suffered
Transport
huge losses in their fight for independence, today the district @ 93. g from Long Wharf.
forms a major part of Boston’s Freedom Trail (see pp126–9).
P U.S.S. Constitution
P John Harvard Mall Charlestown Navy Yard. Tel (617) 242-
Ten families founded 5671. Open mid-Apr–Oct: 2:30–6pm
Charlestown in 1629, a year Tue–Sun (from 10am Sat & Sun);
before the rest of Boston was Nov–mid-Apr: 2:30–4pm Thu–Sun
settled. They built their homes (from 10am Sat & Sun). 7 8
∑ navy.mil/local/constitution
and a palisaded fort on Town
Hill, a spot now marked by John The oldest commissioned war-
Harvard Mall. A small monument ship afloat, the U.S.S. Constitution
within the enclosed park pays saw action in the Mediterranean
homage to John Harvard (see protecting American shipping
p112), the young cleric who from the Barbary pirates. In the
ministered to the settlers. War of 1812, she won fame and
When John Winthrop arrived her nickname of “Old Ironsides”
with three shiploads of Puritan when cannonballs bounced off
refugees in 1630 (see p20), they her in a battle with the British
settled nearby in the marshes ship Guerriere. In the course of
at the base of Town Hill, her active service, she won
Granite obelisk of the Bunker Hill now City Square. 42 battles, lost none,
Monument, erected in 1843 captured 20 vessels, and
P Charlestown was never boarded by an
P Bunker Hill Monument Navy Yard enemy. She underwent
Monument Square. Tel (617) 242- Tel (617) 242-5601. an overhaul in time for
5641. Open mid-Mar–Nov: 9am–5pm Open 9am–5pm daily her 1997 bicentennial
daily; Dec–mid-Mar: 1–5pm Mon–Fri, (Nov–mid-Mar: Thu– and is now in drydock
9am–5pm Sat & Sun; last climb: Sun). 7 8 Municipal art in for further restoration,
4:30pm. Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Established in 1800 City Square but open for visits,
Dec 25. ∑ nps.gov/bost as one of the country’s until 2018. On July 4
In the Revolution’s first pitched first military shipyards, for 174 each year, she is taken out into
battle between British and years Charlestown Navy Yard the harbor for a turnaround that
colonial troops, the British won played a key role in supporting reverses her position at the pier
but failed to escape from Boston. the U.S. Atlantic fleet, as the to ensure equal weathering on
Following the June 17, 1775 Navy moved from wooden both sides. A small museum
battle, American irregulars were sailing ships to steel giants. The documents her history.
joined by other militia to keep men and women working at
British forces penned up until the yard built more than 200
George Washington forced their warships and carried out
evacuation by sea the following maintenance repairs on
March. A Tuscan-style pillar was thousands of others. The yard
erected in 1794 in honor of was designed by Alexander
Dr. Joseph Warren, a Boston Parris, architect of Quincy
revolutionary leader who died Market (see p66), and was
in the battle, but Charlestown one of the first examples of
citizens felt something grander industrial architecture in Boston.
was in order. They began raising On decommissioning,
funds for the Bunker Hill 30 acres of the Navy Yard were
Monument in 1823, laid the transferred to the National Park
cornerstone in 1825, and dedi- Service, and rangers now give
cated the 221-ft (67-m) granite tours of the facility on a daily
obelisk in 1843. The building has basis, including the Chain Forge
no elevator, but 294 steps lead to (where die-lock anchor chain
the top, giving spectacular views was first made), the Rope Walk,
of Boston harbor. Exhibitions and Dry Dock 1 (one of the first
recount the significance and dry docks in the U.S.). A Visitor U.S.S. Constitution, built in 1797, moored in
drama of the bloody battle. Center is located at Building 5. Charlestown Navy Yard
9 Concord
First settled in 1635, Concord is linked with neighboring drove three British companies
Lexington in the battles of April 19, 1775. Colonials favoring from the bridge and chased
separation from Great Britain hid munitions here and British them back to their occupation
barracks in Boston.
troops, seeking these supplies, marched on the town, passing Across the bridge is the
first through Lexington (see p121). The resulting battles in famous Minute Man statue,
Concord, along with the Lexington skirmish, are considered the crafted by Concord native
first of the American Revolution. Half a century later, with the Daniel Chester French (1850–
gathering of American writers including essayist Ralph Waldo 1931). A short trail leads from
the bridge to the North Bridge
Emerson, Concord blossomed as the literary heart of the U.S. The
Visitor Center. A reenactment
homes of many writers of the era are now preserved as museums. of the battle takes place every
year in April.
P Emerson House
28 Cambridge Tpk. Tel (978)
3692236. Open midApr–late
Oct: 10am–4:30pm Thu–Sat,
1–4:30pm Sun.& 8
Following his graduation from
Harvard, Ralph Waldo Emerson
(1803–82) spent his early
adulthood as a schoolteacher
and then as a Unitarian min
North Bridge in Minute Man National Historical Park ister. But as he grew away from
religious orthodoxy
P Monument Square Battle Green and and began to
At Concord’s center is Monument managed to prevail in promulgate his
Square. The square was the focus Concord center, they Transcendental
of a battle between British troops fared less well in the philosophy, Emerson
and Colonists on what has become countryside. Colonial withdrew from the
known as Patriots Day. Having militia and citizen ministry and moved
seized the gun cache of rebel soldiers (Minute Men) to Concord, living first
forces, British soldiers began burn successfully hid their in The Old Manse
ing them. Nearby Colonial forces cannon and powder where he wrote his
saw the smoke and, believing the stashes from a con manifesto Nature.
British were torching the town, tingent of British On marrying Lydia
rushed to Concord’s defense. soldiers by burying Minute Man statue Jackson in 1835, he
the munitions in in Concord settled into Emerson
P Minute Man National newly plowed fields. house, writing essays,
Historical Park – North They then confronted British organizing lecture tours, and
Bridge Visitor Center troops who were patrolling entertaining friends and
174 Liberty St. Tel (978) 3187810. North Bridge. The socalled admirers as the honored “Sage
Open Apr–Oct: 9:30am–5:30pm “shot heard round the world,” of Concord”. Emerson lived in
daily. Closed Nov–Mar. 7 memorialized in Emerson’s this house until his death in
∑ nps.gov/mima “Concord Hymn” (1837), is 1882. Much of his furniture,
Although British troops met widely considered to have set writings, books, and family
little resistance on Lexington off the war, as the Colonials memorabilia are on display here.
Along the Battle Road, by John Rush is located in the Minute Man Visitor Center
CONCORD  119
E Concord Museum VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

200 Lexington Rd. Tel (978) 369-9763.
Open Jan–Mar: 11am–4pm Mon–Sat, Practical Information
1–4pm Sun; Apr–Dec: 9am–5pm n 58 Main St. (978) 369-0830.
Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Sun (Jun–Aug: _ Patriots Day (Apr).
9am–5pm Sun). & 7 ∑ concordchamberof
∑ concordmuseum.org commerce.org
Begun in 1850, the Concord Transport
museum contains one of the k Boston.
oldest and best-documented
collections of Americana.
Holdings include decorative fifes. The museum is also the
arts from the 17th, 18th, and repository of the contents of
Concord’s Old Manse: home to 19th-century 19th centuries that can be Emerson’s study, and the largest
literary giants traced to original Concord collection of personal items
owners; the lantern that Paul that belonged to essayist
P The Old Manse Revere ordered hung to warn Henry David Thoreau. The
269 Monument St. Tel (978) 369-3909. of the British advance; and “Why Concord?” exhibit traces
Open mid-Apr–Oct: noon–5pm Tue– American Revolution artifacts the community from initial
Sun; call for winter hours. & 8 that include powder horns, settlement some 10,000 years
The parsonage by the North muskets, cannonballs, and ago through the 20th century.
Bridge was built in 1770 by
the grandfather of writer
Ralph Waldo Emerson. Author
Nathaniel Hawthorne (1804–
64) lived here as a newlywed
in 1842–45 and wrote Mosses
from an Old Manse (1846),
giving the house its name.
On view are Emerson family
possessions and period
furniture. The garden was
planted by essayist Henry
David Thoreau (1817–62) as
a wedding gift to Hawthorne. A View of the Town of Concord April 19, 1775, Concord Museum
Concord Town Center

1 Monument Square 5 Minute Man Statue
2 Minute Man National 6 The Old Manse
r Historical Park 7 Concord Museum
ve
Ri
or
d 3 North Bridge 8 Emerson House
c
on
Visitor Center 9 Sleepy Hollow
MO
North Bridge C
Visitor Centre
NU
North
4 North Bridge Cemetery
ME
Bridge
NT
Minute Man
Statue
The Old
ST
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Minute Man
National
STREET
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WEST CONCORD, TR
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62 M A
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2A LEXINGTON,
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W
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Concord Museum
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BB
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Walden Pond House P G IK

State Reservation E E

P Walden Pond State

Reservation
915 Walden St. Tel (978) 369-3254.
Open call for hours. & 8 7
∑ mass.gov/dcr
Essayist Henry David Thoreau
(1817–62) lived at Walden Pond
from 1845 to 1847. It was here
that he compiled the material for
his seminal work Walden; or, Life
in the Woods (1854), which called
for a return to simplicity and a
respect for nature, which he
Author’s Ridge, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery cast as the source of all morality.
Although he depicted himself
Z Sleepy Hollow Cemetery the Alcotts lived in it, visitors living in isolation, Thoreau would
Bedford St, east of Monument Sq. often comment that a tour is visit the Concord Center to
Open dawn–dusk daily. like walking through the book. have Sunday dinners with the
This rolling green cemetery is Emerson family, and the pond
the final resting place of many and its woodlands are no more
Concord literary giants. Pilgrims wilderness than they were in
seek the graves of Henry David Thoreau’s day. His significance
Thoreau (1817–62), Nathaniel in American thought and letters,
Hawthorne (1804–64), Louisa however, led to the designation
May Alcott (1832–88), and of the pond as a National Historic
Ralph Waldo Emerson (1803– Landmark. The area is popular for
82), among other notables, walking, fishing, and swimming,
on “Author’s Ridge.” They often though the reservation limits
leave pebbles on Emerson’s visitors to 1,000 people at any
head-stone, acorns on Thoreau’s, one time. A bronze statue of
and pennies on the grave of Thoreau stands outside a
sculptor Daniel Chester French. re-creation of his cabin.
Although his most famous Room at Orchard House, the Alcott family Directly across busy Route 2
work is the Lincoln Memorial residence from 1858–77 from Walden Pond is the
in Washington, DC, French also Walden Woods Project which
sculpted the Civil War Memorial P The Wayside demonstrates the enduring
in Sleepy Hollow. 455 Lexington Rd. Tel (978) 318-7863. appeal of Thoreau’s ideas. A
Open Jun–Oct, call for hours. one-mile (1.6-km) walking trail
P Orchard House This National Historic Site is punctuated by aphoristic
399 Lexington Rd. Tel (978) 369-4118. has a long literary history. inscriptions in granite from
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–4:30pm Mon– It was home to the Alcott Thoreau’s writings, and bronze-
Sat, 1–4:30pm Sun; Nov–Mar: 11am– family while Louisa May was tipped columns devoted to such
3pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4:30pm Sat, growing up, and became the issues as pacifism and environ-
1–4:30pm Sun. & 8 Closed Jan, only home ever owned by mentalism. Within Walden
Easter, Thanksgiving, Dec 25. author Nathaniel Hawthorne. Woods is a “reflection circle.” The
∑ louisamayalcott.org
Children’s author Margaret granite columns surrounding it
Louisa May Alcott was the Sidney (1844–1924) of Five bear yet more quotations from
most successful member of Little Peppers fame bought it thinkers who were influenced by
the Alcott family, but in his from Hawthorne’s daughter. Thoreau, including civil rights
day, her father Bronson Guided tours are offered at leader Martin Luther King, Jr.
was well-regarded as a limited hours by Minute Man (1929–68) and Sioux chief Luther
Transcendental philosopher National Park rangers. Standing Bear (1868–1939).
and founder of
the now-defunct
Concord School
of Philosophy.
Orchard House was
the Alcott family
home from 1858–77,
and Louisa May set
Little Women (1868)
here. Since the
house has been
little altered since Fisherman on the tranquil waters of Walden Pond
CONCORD AND LEXINGTON  121
0 Lexington VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The peaceful prosperity of the modern-day suburb Practical Information

n 1875 Massachusetts Ave.
of Lexington belies its role in the birth of American
(781) 862-1450. _ Patriots Day
independence. On the village common at dawn on April 19, (Apr). ∑ lexingtonchamber.
1775, British regulars and Colonial militia exchanged shots. org
The skirmish proved to be the opening salvo of the American Transport
Revolution, and Lexington Battle Green has been hallowed k Boston.
ground for Americans ever since. Many visitors like to bicycle
the 5.5 miles (9 km) from Alewife “T” station in Cambridge
Revere undertook
along the Minuteman Bikeway, which roughly parallels
his “midnight ride”
the British route on their march to Lexington. to Hancock-Clarke
House to warn patriots
P Lexington Samuel Adams and
Battle Green John Hancock, two
Tranquil churches of the signatories to
surround the leafy green the Declaration of
where, each year in April, Independence, of the
historic re-enactors approaching British
re-create the Battle of (see p23). Munroe Tavern
Lexington. The rest of was a headquarters for
the year, a statue of a British forces. All display
Massachusetts militia artifacts from the
man erected in 1900 Historic re-enactor Revolutionary era.
recalls the event, as do
the graves of seven of the E Scottish Rite Masonic
eight colonial casualties. Museum & Library
Minute Man Bikeway, part of the Minute 33 Marrett Rd. (at intersection of Rte 2A
Man National Historical Park P Historical Society Houses and Massachusetts Ave.) Tel (781) 861-
Hancock-Clarke House: 36 Hancock St; 6559. Open 10am–4:30pm Wed–Sat.
} Minute Man National Buckman Tavern: 1 Bedford St; Closed Jan 1, Thanksgiving, Dec 24–25.
Historical Park – Minute Munroe Tavern: 1332 Massachusetts ∑ srmml.org
Man Visitor Center Ave; Tel (781) 862-1703. Open call for This museum tells the story
Rte 2A. Tel (781) 674-1920. Open Apr– seasonal opening hours. & 8 of the Freemasons in the
Oct: 9am–5pm daily; Nov–Mar: 11am– ∑ lexingtonhistory.org
context of American history,
3pm Tue–Sat. ∑ nps.gov/mima These three structures all serving as the “historical
This 990-acre (400-ha) park, played a role in the events of society” of American
with access from both Concord April 19, 1775 (now known as Freemasonry. Among its
(see pp118–120) and Lexington, Patriots Day). Buckman Tavern prized artifacts is a copy of
preserves the site and inter- served as the meeting place the Lexington Alarm, a broad-
prets the story of the first for the Massachusetts militia side detailing the events at
battles of the American before the confrontation and Lexington and calling on
Revolution. It explains that as a makeshift hospital for their American colonists to revolt
British forces were seeking to wounded. Bostonian Paul against the British Crown.
uncover colonial munitions
hidden in the countryside, and
how both Massachusetts militia
and citizen-soldiers, known as
Minute Men, managed to rout
the British regulars. The Visitor
Center features a massive
battle mural and a 22-minute
multimedia show, Road to
Revolution. A significant portion
of the national park runs along
the five-mile (8-km) Battle Road
Trail. This is the path that was
followed by British forces as
they advanced from Lexington
and marched on to Concord –
the same route the forces
took in retreat. Buckman Tavern, where militia met to plan their revolt against British forces
THREE GUIDED WALKS

Given the difficulties of driving in boston, Cambridge, the Massachusetts Institute of
it is fortunate that its compact layout and technology (MIt), is known for its modern
ubiquitous sidewalks make it an ideal art. south boston is a secret often jealously
walking city. these three walks show the guarded by its inhabitants. although
city’s extremes – the dense riches of a Dorchester Heights was a critical site in the
university campus, the unexpected american revolution, few Freedom trail
pleasures of an intensely residential walkers ever make the detour to appreciate
neighborhood, and boston’s most famous the high vantage on boston’s outer harbor.
walking tour along the historic Freedom In addition to these three walks, each of the
trail. While Harvard (see pp112–6) gets the five areas of boston described in the area
lion’s share of attention among the boston- by area section of this book indicates a
area universities, its younger neighbor in walk on its street-by-street map.
Choosing a WalK
The Three Walks

This map shows the location of the three
guided walks in relation to the main
sightseeing areas of Boston.
The Freedom
MiT Campus Trail continued
(p123) (pp128–9)
south Boston
The Freedom (pp124–5)
Trail (pp126–7)
Key 0 kilometers 1
Walk route 0 miles 1

Grand architecture and extensive parkland at the
MIT campus (p123)
three guided walks  123
A 45-Minute Walk on the MIT Campus

Perhaps best known for its advances in science and
engineering, the Massachusetts institute of technology
has embraced cutting-edge art and architecture as surely
as it has pioneered artificial intelligence and robotics.
this walking tour samples some of the best of Modern
and Post-Modern sculpture and buildings located
around the campus. these highlights represent
the institute’s innovative use of unconventional
9 The Stata Center designed by
materials and techniques.
Frank Gehry
From the Kendall/MIT “T” station, right onto Ames Street at the to the walkway that leads into the
walk to Main Street and turn right. Media Lab Extension building. heart of the campus. Set at the
Take the second right down Next door, the sleekly banded edge of the sidewalk on the left
Wadsworth Street to the corner white box with dark windows is is a complex sculpture of curves,
of Amherst Street, then head to the List Visual Arts Center 3, angles, and twisted planes commis
the back courtyard of the Arthur where galleries display changing sioned in 1975 from sculptor
D. Little Building, where exhibitions of innovative, con Louise Nevelson. Although
Pablo Picasso’s temporary art. Note Alexander painted, Transparent Horizon 6
MAIN STREET
STR EET
Kendall/ STR EET

MIT
STREET
ET
RE
ST
STR EET
CHA RLO TTE

’S
ER
WA DSW ORT H
WAY
AM ES
SS
VA
H AY W A R D
CAR LET ON
ET
1
5 RE
ST
ST 2
4 HE
R
6
AM
8 AM
3
ES
ST
RE
ET
7 0 meters 200
0 yards 200
Key
Walk route Calder’s was constructed of nonrusting
intermediate corten steel. Continue past the
model for his sculpture, Nevelson and look to the left for
Figure Découpée 1 from 1963 The Big Sail, in the lobby 4. In a view of Alexander Calder’s fully
stands in a small garden. the central atrium, Kenneth realized, 40ft(12m)high sculp
Cross the intersection to the Tang Noland’s 1985 Here-There 5 ture, The Big Sail 7. Turn right to
Building, where Frank Stella’s 1988 carries the minimalist abstraction enter the Whitaker Building, where
abstract wall relief of acrylic and of the List building to its logical a projection screen in the ground
enamel on aluminum, Heads or artistic extreme in a fourstory level corridor shows experimental
Tails 2, fills the wall at the base interior wall mural. film and video. The Media Test
of the staircase atrium. Continue Join the students rushing to Wall 8, as the installation is
down Amherst Street and turn classes as you cross Ames Street called, is emblematic of the
school’s commitment to tech
nology in the arts. Cross through
Tips for Walkers
the Whitaker building for a view
Starting point: Kendall/MIT “T” of the south side of the Stata
Length: 0.8 miles (1.3 km). Center 9. Frank Gehry’s metal
Stopping-off points: Amelia’s sheathed complex constitutes
Trattoria (111 Harvard St.) serves a research and teaching village
gourmet pizzas and pasta dishes. devoted to computer, information,
Visitor information: See page and intelligence sciences. Walk
111 for museum opening hours. 5 Here-There mural (1985) by minimalist past the center to return to
artist Kenneth Noland Main Street and the “T” station.
A Two-Hour Walk in South Boston

The harbor is the main attraction in quickly gentrifying South the toddler-friendly L Street
Boston. Initially populated by refugees from the mid-19th Beach 7, and M Street Beach
century Irish famine, the area evolved into the third-largest 8. The bath house, which
actually stretches between K
Irish-American community in the U.S. Recent gentrification and M streets, was a municipal
has diversified the population and turned Victorian tenements gift from notoriously corrupt
into trendy condominiums. But the defining characteristic of mayor James Curley (last
South Boston has always been its relation to the harbor – a elected to office from jail)
bevy of soft sand beaches and headlands that guard the entry to his friends and cronies of
South Boston. The bath house
to the Port of Boston. The steep hill to Dorchester Heights can
now serves a broad public.
be skipped in favor of a continued seaside promenade. Walk east along William J. Day
Boulevard as it winds past
Park, where the Dorchester the yacht club and private
Heights Monument 3 stands moorings and concludes
like a lighthouse to mark the at Pleasure Bay.
spot where George
Washington erected EAST 3RD ST
cannons in 1776 to
force the British EAST B R O A D W AY
EM
STREET
ER
withdrawal ET
SO
G STREET
EAST 4TH ST N
RE ST
H S TREET
K S TREET
from Boston. ST
I S TREET
EAST 5TH ST
OLD HARBOR STREET
ER
ST
MERCER ST
L
HE
EAST 6TH ST
3 4
RC
1 Stone column at the entrance DO
E EAST 7TH ST
OL
8T
AY
H
DC
to Joe Moakley Park ST

W
5
N
O LO
SO
E 8TH STREET EAST 8TH ST

ER
TT
NY
The last stop of the No. 5 bus is

PA
M A RIN E ROA D
C OL U M B I A R O A D
AV E
at the playing fields and green Andrew

walkways of Joe Moakley Park ANDREW
1, named after the late South

SQUARE 6 7
JOE MOAKLEY
Boston-born Congressman. PARK
D
AR
Some of Moakley’s sayings

COLUMBIA ROAD
LEV
celebrate the neighborhood’s Dorchester

Bay
U
identity and are etched on 2

AY B O
granite columns that can be

found around the park. One Standing
I L LIAM J. D
such saying reads “Everyone 1 sentinel over

I knew growing up in South the harbor on the
Boston was baptized, issued a traffic circle connecting
union card, and enrolled in the the boulevard to Farragut
W
Democratic Party.” Cross the KOSCIUSZKO Road is a bronze of Admiral

CIRCLE
park to the broad swath of fine David Farragut 9, commander
brown sand known as Carson JFK / U Mass in chief of the U.S. Navy during
Beach 2, a public swimming the Civil War.
beach with a bath house and The massive building at one Across the street is the
bocce courts. end of the park is South Boston section of South Boston beach
The steep walk up Old High School 4. Walk along East
Harbor Street leads to the 7th Avenue past renovated
Tips for Walkers
grand hilltop oval of Thomas homes to L Street and turn right
toward the harbor. Starting point: Joe Moakley Park
Woody’s L Street Getting there: No. 5 bus from
Tavern 5, Southie’s Andrew Sq. to Moakley Park
most old-fashioned (McCormack Housing).
pub and the set for Length: 3 miles (5km).
scenes in the film Stops: Sullivan’s (next to Fort
Independence) and Seapoint
Good Will Hunting,
Restaurant (at Carson Beach)
is at the corner of
serve fried seafood and American
East 8th Street. favorites. Supreme House of
At the foot of the Pizza, across from Moakley Park,
street is the L Street offers an Italian alternative.
2 Time out on Carson Beach Bath House 6,
THREE GUIDED WALKS  125
officers, and soldiers. The

walkway brings you to a pointed
obelisk monument e. This
graniteblock shaft is a memorial
to Donald McKay whose ship
yard, directly across the channel,
launched some of the fastest
clipper ships of the mid19th
century and helped cement
Boston as an international
trading port. Basreliefs of some
of McKay’s most famous vessels
r Cannons at Fort Independence, Castle Island are mounted near the
base. The shipyard
site is now Logan
International Airport.
L E VA RD
D AY B O U
E 1ST STREET
S H ORE R
OA
D WI
LLI
AM
J .
Most planes coming
to Boston make their
E 2ND STREET r final approach and
ROAD
E 3RD STREET touchdown on the

INDEPENDENCE MARINE e
SQUARE PARK runway directly oppo
E A S T B R O A D W AY FORT
0 site Castle Island.
FARRAGUT
INDEPENDENCE
Pleasure
EAST 4TH ST PARK Because Castle
Bay
Island controls the throat
O S TREET
N S TREET
P S TREET
EAST 5TH ST
of Boston harbor, it has
EAST 6TH ST
9 been fortified since 1634.
A RD
EV The current structure, Fort
EAST 7TH ST UL
BO Independence r, was erected
D AY
J. q in 1779 on George Washing
M
IA
W
ILL ton’s orders so that no enemy
w could ever again occupy Boston
8 as the British had done. It never
saw action, though it did serve
as a prisoner of war camp
gas storage tank in Dorchester. during the Civil War. Author
The tank was first painted in Edgar Allen Poe served here
rainbow colors by abstract briefly in the 1820s and is said to
artist Corita Kent in 1971. have based one of his macabre
0 meters 500 The causeway concludes tales, A Cask of Amontillado, on a
0 yards 5 00 at Castle Island, which has not fort legend of a man deliberately
been a real island since the confined in a dungeon. (Just
channel to the mainland was such a skeleton was uncovered
Key filled in 1891. Follow the sea during a renovation in 1905.)
side walkway which passes by The No. 11 bus, which runs
Walk route
a number of memorials to fallen along Day Boulevard, will take
South Boston firefighters, police you back to downtown Boston.
known as the “Sugar Bowl” 0.

This beach lines Pleasure Bay,
a circular body of water pro
tected from the harbor by an
extensive breakwater, the
Pleasure Bay Causeway q. The
causeway walk of nearly 1 mile
(1.5 km) is a favorite spot for
local mothers to show off their
infants, as well as a good exer
cise route for joggers and speed
walkers. Halfway along the
causeway is the Head Island
light pavilion w, with picnic
tables, benches, and sweeping
views of the harbor, looking all
the way down to the landmark r U.S.S. Constitution gliding past Fort Independence

A 90-Minute Walk Along the Freedom Trail

Boston has more sites directly related to the American Revolution
than any other city. The most important of these sites, as well as
some relating to other freedoms gained by Bostonians, have
been linked together as “The Freedom Trail.” This 2.5-mile (4-km)
walking route, marked in red on the sidewalks, goes from Boston
Common to Bunker Hill in Charlestown (see pp128–9). This first
section weaves through the central city and Old Boston.
See www.thefreedomtrail.org for more information.
1
2 ST
B IN
EA
BOSTON DO
C W
O
N BO 3 Elegant Georgian steeple of Park
COMMON
ET
PA
RK ST Street Church
RE
PL R ST
EE ET
ST
E RS
T OM
RK
S
PE
PA
E
TREMONT ER AR
B
STRE T O N SQU
OLD GRANARY
ET BURYING
Park Street 3 GROUND
4
TREMONT
STREET
T
STREE
RT H
Government
6 5 Center
B O SW O
SCHOOL S
CH AP
M AN
PL AC E
COURT
FIELD
COUR
PROVIN
CE STR
EET RE
BROM
SQUA
TREET
T ST
EETR
WA
SHIN
GTO
N ST 7 State
9
8
SPRIN
M IL K ST
0
WA
ET
RE
G L
ST
TE
AN
R S
2 Nurses Hall in Massachusetts State House

RE
RE
ST
HI
T
NS
ET
AT
VO
DE
E
Central City
ST
RE
The Freedom Trail starts at the

ET
Visitor Information Center governance shortly after the

on Boston Common 1 Revolution. Along Park Street,
(see pp48–9). This is where at the end of the Common, The atmospheric cemetery
angry colonials rallied against you will come to Park Street is Boston’s oldest, containing,
their British masters and Church 3 (see p50), built in among others, the grave of
where the British forces were 1810 and a bulwark of the colonial city founder John
encamped during the 1775–76 antislavery movement. The Winthrop. As the name
military occupation. Political church took the place of an suggests, King’s Chapel was
speakers still expound from old grain storage facility, which the principal Anglican church
their soapboxes here, and in turn gave its name to the in Puritan Boston, and more
Boston Common remains a adjacent Granary Burying than half of its congregation
center of much activity. Ground 4 on Tremont Street, fled to Nova Scotia at the
Walking around to the one of Boston’s earliest ceme outbreak of the Revolution.
north corner of the Common teries and the final resting place The box pew on the right just
gives a great view of the of patriots John Hancock and inside the front entrance was
Massachusetts State House 2 Paul Revere (see p23). Continuing reserved for condemned
(see p52) on Beacon Street, along Tremont Street you will prisoners to hear their last
designed by Charles Bulfinch come to King’s Chapel and sermon before going to the
as the new center of state Burying Ground 5 (see p60). gallows on Boston Common.
Heart of Old Boston speech debates and taxation Tips for Walkers
Head back along Tremont Street protests. A few blocks north,
and turn left down School the Old State House 9 Starting point: Boston Common.
Street, where a hopscotch- presides over the head of Maps available at Boston
like mosaic embedded in the State Street. The colonial Common Visitors’ Center.
sidewalk commemorates the site government building, it Length: 2.5 miles (4 km).
of the First Public School 6, also served as the first Getting there: Exit at Park
Street “T” station to start. Other
established in 1635. At the state legislature, and the
“T” stations also located on
end of the street is the Old merchants’ exchange in the
route: State, Haymarket, and
Corner Bookstore 7 (see p61), basement was where Boston’s Government Center. Follow
a landmark more associated colonial shipping fortunes red stripe on sidewalk for the
with Boston’s literary emer- were made. The square in full route.
gence of 1845–65 than with front of the Old State House
the Revolution. is the Boston Massacre
The Old South Meeting Site 0, where British soldiers
House 8, a short way to the opened fire on a taunting
south on Washington Street, mob in 1770, killing five and
is a graceful, white-spired providing propaganda for
brick church, modeled on revolutionary agitators.
Sir Christopher Wren’s English Follow State Street down
country churches. As one of to Congress Street and turn
the largest meeting halls in left to reach Faneuil Hall q,
Revolutionary Boston, “Old known as the “Cradle of
South’s” rafters rang with Liberty” for the history of
many a fiery speech urging patriotic speeches made in
revolt against the British. its public meeting hall.
It was a crucible for free- Donated to the city by
Huguenot merchant Peter
Faneuil, the building was
Haymarket
built primarily as Boston’s first
central marketplace.
ET
E
R
q Faneuil Hall, popularly known as “the

ST
S E
T SALEM STREET Cradle of Liberty”
E
R ES ST
R
ET
G
N
RE
CO N
ST
IO HAN
N OVE
U
R ST
NE
REET
TO
N
KS
O
RT
AC
H
ST
BL
RE
ET HAN
q NO w OVER STREET
CLI
R T H STREET CT.
GA RD EN
CLARK STREET
NT
ET
NO
ON
RT H
RE
SQ
ST
UA
ST
RE
RE
ET
D
ON
ET
HM
RE
ST
TH
RIC
FUL R
TON NO
STR
EET
UE
Use the red EN
AV
stripe to negotiate N TIC
LA
your way down to North AT
End and the Paul Revere
House w on North Square.
Boston’s oldest private
residence, it was home to
the man famously known for
0 meters 200
his “midnight ride” (see p23).
From here, walk to Hanover 0 yards 2 00
Street and turn right, following

the red stripe towards the
Key
next point on the Freedom
9 Old State House, once the seat of Trail, Old North Church Walk route
colonial government (see p128).
The Freedom Trail continued

Distances begin to stretch out on the second half of the
Freedom Trail as it meanders through the narrow streets of
the North End, then continues over the Charles River to
Charlestown, where Boston’s settlers first landed. The key
Revolutionary and colonial-era sites here embrace two wars –
the War of Independence and the War of 1812.
r View from Copp’s Hill terrace, Copp’s

The North End Burying Ground r.This was Hill Burying Ground
Following the Freedom Trail established in 1660, and the
through the North End from cemetery holds the remains
Paul Revere House of several generations
(see p127), allow time of the Mather family –
to try some of the Boston’s influential
Italian cafés and 17th- and 18th-century
bakeries along the theocrats – as well
neighborhood’s as the tombstones
main thoroughfare, of many soldiers
E
G
ID
Hanover Street. Cross Gravestone at Copp’s Hill of the Revolution
R
B
through the Paul Burying Ground slain in the fight for
N
W
Revere Mall to reach freedom. Boston’s
O
ST
Old North Church e (see p73), first free African American
LE
R
whose spire is instantly visible community, “New Guinea,” Boston
A
H
over the shoulder of the statue covered the west side of Inner
Harbor C
of Paul Revere on horseback. Copp’s Hill. A broken column
Sexton Robert Newman marks the grave of Prince
famously hung two lanterns in Hall, head of the Black KEANY
SQUARE
the belfry here, signaling the Masons, distinguished
CO
advance of British troops on veteran of the MM
ER
Lexington and Concord in Revolution, and promi- CIA
ET
L S
1775. The church retains its nent political leader TR
RE
EE
ST
T
ET
18th-century interior, including in the early years of the

CE
RE
IN
the unusual box pews. Republic. The musketball-

ST
PR
LL
The crest of Copp’s Hill lies chipped tombstone of

HU
close by on Hull Street. Some patriot Daniel Malcolm

of Boston’s earliest gallows records that he asked
EET
stood here, and Bostonians to be buried “in STR NORTH END
ILL
O WH PLAYGROUND
would gather in boats below to a stone grave S N
RE ET
ET
watch the hangings of heretics 10 feet deep” to rest

ET
TRE
COPP'S HILL
TRE
HU LL ST
and pirates. Much of the hilltop beyond the reach r BURYING

FE S
AVENUE
GROUND
E S
is covered by Copp’s Hill of British gunfire.

SHEA
NC
T
PRI
STREE
SALEM STREET FO ST ER
ST
AT L A N T I C
e
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y The Bunker Hill Monument viewed

t from Charlestown harborfront
Key
Walk route
The granite obelisk that

towers above the Charlestown
waterfront is Bunker Hill
Charlestown U.S.S. Constitution is Monument y, commemo
The iron bridge over probably the most rating the battle of June 17,
the Charles River famous ship in U.S. 1775 that ended with a
that links the North history and still costly victory for British forces
End in Boston with remains the flagship against an irregular colonial
City Square in of the U.S. Navy. army that finally ran out of
Charlestown dates Built at Hartt’s ammunition. British losses
from 1899. Across shipyard in the were so heavy, however, that
the bridge, turn right t Lion carving, North End, she was the battle would presage
along Constitution U.S.S. Constitution completed in 1797. future success for the colonial
Road, following the In the War of 1812, forces. As a monument to the
signs to Charlestown Navy Yard she earned the nickname first largescale battle of the
t. The National Park Service “Old Ironsides” for the resil Revolution, the obelisk, based
operates the Visitor Center at ience of her live oak hull on those of ancient Egypt, was
Building 5, which has exhibits against cannon fire. Fully a prototype for others across
explaining the historic role of restored for her bicentennial, the U.S. Catch a bus from
the Navy Yard and the history the Constitution occasionally Chelsea Street back to the
of the warships – one from the sails under her own power. North End and city center.
late 18th century, another from
the mid20th century – that
are berthed at its piers. The
colonial navy had been no
match for the might of Britain’s
naval forces during the
Revolution, and building a
more formidable naval force
became a priority. This was one
of several shipyards that were
set up around 1800. Lying at
her berth alongside Pier 1, the
200yearold woodenhulled t Defensive guns at Charlestown Navy Yard with view of the North End

TRAVELERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 132–137

Where to Eat and Drink 138–151
Shopping in Boston 152–157
Entertainment in Boston 158–163
Sports and Outdoor Activities 164–167
Children’s Boston 168–171
132  TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Boston offers the visitor almost every type of Boston has a perennial hotel shortage, which
accommodation: modest guesthouses, luxury keeps prices high and makes it difficult to
hotels, chain motels, Victorian brownstone book rooms during peak times. Even in
bed and breakfasts (B&Bs), and designer winter, it’s rare to find rooms under $100
“boutique” hotels. Many older hotels have per night; in summer, “budget” rates can
been renovated to provide traditional charm approach $200 or more. It is advisable
with modern conveniences, while new hotels to contact the city’s tourist information
keep opening in the city. Nevertheless, offices for room availability and prices.
or restaurants, and may be less during the winter months, but

expensive. However, some at the Boston hotels are busy in May
higher end of the price scale and June for college graduations;
now have amenities, and prices, July and August for summer
that rival the best hotels. Most vacations; and September and
large hotels have at least a basic October for the fall season.
fitness room, while some have
arrangements with nearby clubs
for guest use. Swimming pools Hidden Extras
are less common, except at the If you have a car in Boston, you’ll
big hotels, and outdoor pools pay dearly for parking. Ask your
generally open only between hotel if parking is included; if
The elegant Omni Parker House, set June and early September. not, budget at least $20–50
along the Freedom Trail (see p135) One recent development that extra per day. Taxes in Boston
travelers may find beneficial is will also add 14.75 per cent to
Where to Stay that Boston’s hotels now house the hotel bill. If breakfast is not
The centrally located Back Bay many of the city’s top restaurants. included, expect to spend at
has the greatest concentration Highspeed Internet access, wired least $3 for coffee and a pastry
of hotels and is convenient for and wireless, is standard but in a nearby café, or $15 and up
tourists as well as business may incur a fee. for a full hotel breakfast.
travelers. In the gentrified South
End, an increasing number of
restored Victorian brownstones How to Book Discounts
have been converted to B&Bs. Most hotels have tollfree Hotel prices vary significantly
Accommodation in the Financial reservation numbers, and some with the seasons, with the low
District, close to the waterfront, offer discounts for online book est rates found in January and
caters to business people during ing. Room rates are often quoted February. Through the year, many
the week, but often offers good for two people sharing a room, hotels catering to business trav
value to vacationers on the week not including tax or breakfast, elers, such as in the Financial
ends. Across the Charles River, although some places provide a District, in Cambridge’s Kendall
Cambridge has a large number breakfast. Prepay only the first Square, and around Hynes
of hotels, particularly around night in case the place does not Convention Center offer discount
Harvard Square and Kendall meet expectations. There is some weekend rates. B&Bs may offer
Square. In the more suburban lastminute room availability better prices midweek.
Brookline, situated a little way
west of Back Bay, there are
several guesthouses, as well as a
selection of more upscale B&Bs.
Hotel Grading and Facilities

Boston does not have an official
hotel grading system. While
higher prices generally indicate
more amenities, some lodgings
in prime locations, or with unique
historic features, may command
prices that exceed what the faci
lities might otherwise warrant.
B&Bs generally do not offer
fitness facilities, business services, Stylishly furnished room at the Revere Hotel, Theater District (see p134)
The bustling Faneuil Hall Marketplace, also known as Quincy Market
W H E R E TO S TAY  133
DIRECTORY
Bed and Breakfast
Agencies
Bed & Breakfast
Agency of Boston
Tel (617) 720-3540.
or (800) 248-9262.
∑ boston-bnbagency.com
The elegant interior of the Presidential suite at Taj Boston, Back Bay (see p136)
Bed and Breakfast
Bed and Breakfasts complimentary kids’ DVD rentals. Associates Bay Colony, Ltd.
Boston has a good selection of Suites are available in many big Tel (617) 720-0522.
small hotels and B&Bs, offering hotels, giving families space to
or (888) 486-6018.
personal service and charm. spread out. For families on more
If you are looking for a classic moderate budgets, some ∑ bnbboston.com
B&B, contact one of Boston’s guesthouses offer apartment- Boston Homestay, Inc.
B&B booking agencies. A recent style accommodations. Be
∑ bostonhomestay.com
trend is the “boutique” hotel, aware that many B&Bs cannot
a small, elegant place, with accommodate young children.
Disabled Travelers
prices reflecting the level of
service and luxury. Contact Massachusetts Network of
the Bed & Breakfast Agency Budget Options
Information Providers for
of Boston, Bed and Breakfast It can be hard to find budget
Associates Bay Colony, or options in Boston. The centrally People with Disabilities
Boston Homestay, Inc. for located Boston Hostel Tel (800) 642-0249.
more information. (HI-Boston) has 468 beds in TTY (for people who
modern, eco-friendly private cannot hear).
and dorm rooms. Many travelers Tel (800) 764-0200.
Business Travelers find rentals through airbnb to ∑ disabilityinfo.org
Business travelers will find that be the most flexible and cost-
all major hotels provide fax and effective option. The North
Budget Options
Wi-Fi access. Some new or newly Shore towns of Salem and
refurbished hotels offer in-room Rockport, an hour north of airbnb
fax machines, multi-line phones, Boston, have mid-priced B&Bs
∑ airbnb.com
and private voice mail. It is wise and are accessible by the MBTA
to check whether older hotels commuter rail – contact the Hostelling International’s
have the facilities you require. North of Boston Convention Boston Hostel
and Visitors Bureau for details. (HI-Boston)
Disabled Travelers 19 Stuart St.
Disabled travelers may be most Recommended Hotels Map 1 C5
comfortable in the city’s newer The accommodations featured Tel (617) 536-9455.
hotels that have been built to in this guide have been ∑ bostonhostel.org
conform to access requirements. selected for their excellent
Some of the older hotels have facilities, outstanding location, North of Boston Convention
been refitted, but many small and good value. These hotels and Visitors Bureau
B&Bs have steps, narrow hallways, run the gamut across all environ- 17 Peabody Sq, Peabody,
or other architectural features ments, from small, family-owned MA 01960.
that may make access difficult. B&Bs and hotels catering to Tel (978) 977-7760.
For information, contact the Business executives to Historic
∑ northofboston.org
Massachusetts Network of hotels. While there are enough
Information Providers for Value options to choose from,
People with Disabilities. Luxury choices also abound,
offering the best in service and
amenities. For the best of the
Children best, look out for hotels high-
Children are welcome in most lighted as “DK Choice”. These
of the larger hotels and often establishments stand out for
stay free in their parents’ rooms. an exceptional feature, be it a
Some deluxe hotels provide stunning location, notable
child-friendly amenities such as history, or an inviting
bedtime milk and cookies, and atmosphere.
Where to Stay
Onyx Hotel $$$ Price Guide
Business 155 Portland St, 02114 Prices are based on one night's stay in
Tel (617) 557-9955 Map 1 C2 high season for a standard double room,
Back Bay and South End ∑ onyxhotel.com inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Copley Square Hotel $$$ Stylish place with modest-sized $ under $200
47 Huntington Ave, 02116 rooms and warm decor. Morning $$ $200 to $300
$$$ over $300
Tel (617) 536-9000 Map 3 C5 car service to the Financial District.
∑ copleysquarehotel.com
Modern, comfortable rooms and Wyndham Boston Seaport Boston Hotel $$$
premier service. Centrally located. Beacon Hill $$$ 1 Seaport Lane, 02210
Trendy on-site restaurant. 5 Blossom St, 02114 Tel (617) 385-4000
Tel (617) 742-7630 Map 1 B3 ∑ seaportboston.com
Loews Boston Hotel $$$ ∑ wyndham.com Modern place connected to the
350 Stuart St, 02116 Pleasant rooms featuring modern World Trade Center. Regular shut-
Tel (617) 266-7200 Map 4 D2 amenities. Well-equipped fitness tles offer access to other areas.
∑ loewshotels.com center. Close to area attractions.
Chic, well-appointed rooms with Westin Boston Waterfront $$$
contemporary atmosphere. Ideal 425 Summer St, 02210
for tourists and shoppers. Chinatown and the Tel (617) 532-4600
Theater District ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Sheraton Boston Hotel $$$ Rooms featuring all modern
39 Dalton St, 02199 DoubleTree by Hilton $$$ conveniences. Several restaurant
Tel (617) 236-2000 Map 3 B3 821 Washington St, 02111 options on site.
∑ sheratonbostonhotel.com Tel (617) 956-7900 Map 4 E2
Conveniently located modern ∑ doubletree3.hilton.com
hotel provides comforts of home Spacious rooms with meticulous Old Boston and the
while catering to business needs. decor and modern comforts. Financial District
Warm, attentive service.
Westin Copley Place $$$ Club Quarters $$
10 Huntington Ave, 02116 Revere Hotel $$$ 161 Devonshire St, 02110
Tel (617) 262-9600 Map 3 C3 200 Stuart St, 02116 Tel (617) 357–6400 Map 2 D4
∑ westincopleyplaceboston.com Tel (617) 482-1800 Map 4 D2 ∑ clubquarters.com
Comfortable, well-furnished ∑ reverehotel.com Conveniently located near Faneuil
rooms. Linked to the Hynes Luxurious property in a prime Hall. Full-service accommodations
Convention Center via a skybridge. location. Lounge and restaurant offered in a club–like atmo-
are both popular. Well-furnished sphere. Complimentary services.
rooms with many additional perks.
Beacon Hill and DK Choice
West End W Boston $$$
100 Stuart St, 02116 Hilton Boston Downtown/
The Boxer Boston $$$ Tel (617) 261-8700 Map 4 E2 Faneuil Hall $$$
107 Merrimac St, 02109 ∑ starwoodhotels.com 89 Broad St, 02110
Tel (617) 624-0202 Map 1 C2 Trendy place with well-appointed Tel (617) 556-0006 Map 2 E4
∑ theboxerboston.com rooms. Restaurant and lobby bar ∑ hiltonbostondowntown.com
Contemporary rooms with large are popular hangouts. Located in the financial district,
beds, big Beaux-Arts windows this Art Deco hotel is popular
and modern technology. with business executives. It also
Farther Afield caters to families as Faneuil Hall,
Hotel Marlowe $$$ Quincy Market, and the North
25 Edwin H. Land Blvd, End are all a short stroll away.
Cambridge, 02141 Rooms are spacious and have
Tel (617) 868-8000 Map 1 A2 all modern amenities. The wel-
∑ hotelmarlowe.com coming restaurant/lounge and
Modern and lavish rooms. library are ideal spots for closing
Complimentary evening wine deals as well as social meetings.
reception by the lobby fireplace.
Steps away from Charles River.
North End and Historic

the Waterfront Back Bay and South End
Renaissance Boston Commonwealth Court
Waterfront $$$ Guest House $
606 Congress St, 02210 284 Commonwealth Ave, 02116
Tel (617) 338-4111 Tel (617) 424-1230 Map 3 B2
∑ marriott.com ∑ commonwealthcourt.com
Waterfront place offering well- This former private residence often
Well-stocked bar in the Ruby Room at appointed rooms with stunning rents rooms, each with a kitch-
the Revere Hotel in Theater District views. Exceptional service. enette, by the week or month.
Newbury Guest House $$

261 Newbury St, 02116
Tel (617) 670-6000 Map 3 B2
∑ newburyguesthouse.com
Formerly a row of several houses,
this place offers cozy rooms with
eclectic furnishings. Good value.
The Eliot Hotel $$$

370 Commonwealth Ave, 02215
Tel (617) 267-1607 Map 3 A3
∑ eliothotel.com
Late 19th-century landmark
with spacious suites and deluxe
amenities. Exceptional service.
Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel $$$

138 St James Ave, 02116 Plush interiors of a suite at The Eliot Hotel in Back Bay
Tel (617) 267-5300 Map 3 C2
∑ fairmont.com North End and Beacon Hill and
This 1912 landmark has opulent the Waterfront West End
public areas, tastefully appointed
rooms, and grand suites. Boston Harbor Hotel $$$
70 Rowes Wharf, 02110 DK Choice
hotel140 $$$ Tel (617) 439-7000 Map 2 E4 John Jeffries House $
140 Clarendon St, 02116 ∑ bhh.com 14 David G Mugar Way, 02114
Tel (617) 585-5600 Map 3 C3 Elegant hotel with deluxe rooms Tel (617) 367-1866 Map 1 B3
∑ hotel140.com boasting harbor or skyline views. ∑ johnjeffrieshouse.com
The country’s first YWCA stylishly Known for the winter wine festival. Former nurses' quarters dating
refurbished as a buget option back to 1909. The hardwood
with trendy, minimalist decor. Old Boston and the floors, original moldings, and
traditional furnishings give it a
Lenox Hotel $$$ Financial District cozy town house feel. The handy
61 Exeter St, 02116 location provides an ideal base
Tel (617) 536-5300 Map 3 B2 for those looking to explore the
∑ lenoxhotel.com DK Choice gorgeous neighborhood and
Family-run place with intimate, Omni Parker House $$$ key historical sites that are
European-style rooms, some with 60 School St, 02108 within walking distance.
fireplaces. Multiple dining options. Tel (617) 227-8600 Map 1 C4
∑ omniparkerhouse.com
America's oldest continuously-
Chinatown and the operating luxury hotel (c. 1855), Farther Afield
Theater District Omni Parker House serves as an A Friendly Inn $
ideal base for guests looking to 1673 Cambridge St, Cambridge, 02138
Boston Park Plaza $ soak in Boston’s historical sites. Tel (617) 547-7851
64 Arlington St, 02116 The hotel sits along the Freedom ∑ afinow.com
Tel (617) 426-2000 Map 4 D2 Trail, across the street from Just steps from Harvard Square,
∑ bostonparkplaza.com Beacon Hill. Guests can sample this Queen Anne-style house has
Boston's largest historic lodging Parker House rolls and Boston large rooms. Friendly service.
option with an elegant lobby creme pie, both invented here
and comfortable rooms. at the hotel’s restaurant. Beech Tree Inn $
83 Longwood Ave, Brookline, 02446
Tel (617) 277-1620
Farther Afield ∑ thebeechtreeinn.com
Mary Prentiss Inn $$ Victorian-style home boasting
6 Prentiss St, Cambridge, 02140 Inn/B&B rooms with private baths. Has a
Tel (617) 661-2929 parlor where guests can mingle.
∑ maryprentissinn.com Back Bay and South End
Greek Revival mansion boasting 463 Beacon Street Guest House $$ Yun’s Place $
rooms with period furniture 463 Beacon St, 02116 66 Hopedale St, Allston, 02134
and antiques. Wood-burning Tel (617) 536-1302 Map 3 A2 Tel (617) 987-2085
fireplaces are featured in some ∑ 463beacon.com ∑ yunsplace.com
rooms. Beautiful terrace. This handsome brownstone Comfortable rooms in a quaint
house offers affordable studio Victorian home. Friendly innkeep-
Sheraton Commander $$$ rooms with cooking facilities. ers. Near Cambridge attractions.
16 Garden St, Cambridge, 02138
Tel (617) 547-4800 Chandler Inn Hotel $$ Irving House $$
∑ sheratoncommander.com 26 Chandler St, 02116 24 Irving St, Cambridge, 02138
A Cambridge Common landmark Tel (617) 482-3450 Map 4 D3 Tel (617) 547-4600
built in 1927. Rooms are small but ∑ chandlerinn.com ∑ irvinghouse.com
comfortable and have luxurious This affordable hotel has simple, A favorite of visiting scholars, this
amenities. Complimentary break- tastefully decorated and comfort- B&B is tucked away in a quiet, leafy
fast and evening hors d'oeuvres. able rooms. Friendly, homey feel. area, next to Harvard University.
For more information on types of hotels see page 133
Isaac Harding House $$

288 Harvard St, Cambridge, 02138
Tel (617) 876-2888
∑ harding-house.com
This 1860s Victorian home in a
quiet neighborhood. Has spa
cious, comfortable rooms.
Oasis Guest House &

Adams Bed & Breakfast $$
22 Edgerly Road, 02115
Tel (617) 267-2262 Map 3 A3
∑ oasisguesthouse.com
Three adjacent townhouses near
the Berklee College of Music.
Great location and bargain rates.
Green Turtle Floating Sweeping city views from the rooftop restaurant at Taj Boston, Back Bay
Bed and Breakfast $$$
1 Pier 8, Charlestown, 02129 The Colonnade Hotel $$$ Hotel Commonwealth $$$
Tel (617) 337-0202 120 Huntington Ave, 02116 500 Commonwealth Ave, 02215
∑ greenturtlebb.com Tel (617) 424-7000 Map 3 B3 Tel (617) 933-5000
Unique option offering rooms ∑ colonnadehotel.com ∑ hotelcommonwealth.com
on three yachts. Boasts expansive Large rooms with modern Modern property offers gracious
views of the Boston Harbor skyline. comforts. Outdoor rooftop pool. hospitality close to historical sites.
The Hotel Veritas $$$

North End and Beacon Hill and 1 Remington St, Cambridge, 02138
the Waterfront West End Tel (617) 520-5000
∑ thehotelveritas.com
Bricco Suites $$ Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro $$ Intimate, modern rooms. Cozy
241 Hanover St, 02113 25 Charles St, 02114 lounge serves cocktails. Ideal for
Tel (617) 523-9020 Map 2 E2 Tel (617) 723-7575 Map 1 B4 visitors focusing on Cambridge.
∑ briccosuites.com ∑ beaconhillhotel.com
Studios and one to twobedroom Renovated town house with small, Hyatt Regency
apartments in Little Italy offer Eurochic rooms. Private roofdeck. Boston Harbor $$$
contemporary style and comfort. 101 Harborside Dr, 02128
Liberty Hotel $$$ Tel (617) 568-1234
215 Charles St, 02114 ∑ bostonharbor.hyatt.com
Tel (617) 224-4000 Map 1 B3 Giant glass wall facing the harbor
Luxury ∑ libertyhotel.com maximizes water views. Rooms
Deluxe hotel in a former jailhouse are spacious and comfortable.
Back Bay and South End with beautiful architecture. Offers Water shuttle to the nearby docks.
The Inn at St Botolph $$ bicycle rentals and yoga classes.
99 Saint Botolph St, 02116 Le Méridien Cambridge-MIT $$$
Tel (617) 236-8099 Map 3 B3 20 Sidney St, Cambridge, 02139
∑ innatstbotolph.com Chinatown and the Tel (617) 577-0200
Cozy rooms with contemporary Theater District ∑ starwoodhotels.com
decor and traditional touches. A favorite of investors, scientists,
Four Seasons Hotel Boston $$$ and academics visiting MIT. Ideal
Mandarin Oriental, Boston $$$ 200 Boylston St, 02116 for exploring Central Square's
776 Boylston St, 02199 Tel (617) 338-4400 Map 1 B5 famous restaurants.
Tel (617) 535-8888 Map 3 B2 ∑ fourseasons.com
∑ mandarinoriental.com Afternoon tea, children’s activities,
Enjoy true luxury in large rooms and other amenities make for a North End and
with stateoftheart electronics. great stay at this luxurious hotel. the Waterfront
Full spa and dining options on site.
Ritz-Carlton Boston Common $$$ Battery Wharf $$$
10 Avery St, 02111 3 Battery Wharf, 02109
DK Choice Tel (617) 574-7100 Map 1 C5 Tel (617) 994-9000 Map 2 E2
Taj Boston Hotel $$$ ∑ ritzcarlton.com ∑ batterywharfhotelboston.com
15 Arlington St, 02116 Located on the upper levels of the Swanky hotel on a quiet water
Tel (617) 536-5700 Map 1 A5 tallest Downtown building. Classy front. Many of the elegant rooms
∑ tajhotels.com rooms with postmodern decor. have stunning harbor views.
Opened in 1927 as the original Sophisticated service.
RitzCarlton, this is one of
New England’s most inviting Farther Afield InterContinental Boston $$$
hotels. The scenic location The Charles Hotel $$$ 510 Atlantic Ave, 02210
ensures that most attractions 1 Bennett St, 02138 Tel (617) 747-1000 Map 2 D5
are within walking distance. Tel (617) 864-1200 ∑ intercontinentalboston.com
This grand dame epitomizes ∑ charleshotel.com Posh rooms with superb harbor
opulence and “old Boston” style. Modern decor. Outstanding jazz views. Luxurious service. Also of
club and topnotch restaurant. fers extensive business amenities.
Key to Price Guide see page 134
Old Boston and the Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Harvard Square Hotel $$
Financial District Suites Boston Garden $$$ 110 Mt. Auburn St, Cambridge, 02138
280 Friend St, 02114 Tel (617) 864-5200
Ames Hotel $$$ Tel (617) 720-5544 Map 1 C2 ∑ harvardsquarehotel.com
1 Court St, 02108 ∑ hiexboston.com Former motor inn offers modern,
Tel (617) 979-8100 Map 2 D3 Modern accommodations sophisticated rooms. Friendly
∑ ameshotel.com located across the TD Banknorth service. Excellent location in the
Old world architecture meets Garden and just a few minutes midst of Harvard Square.
modern style at this luxury walk away from area attractions.
option in a prime location. Complimentary hot breakfasts. Holiday Inn Express Hotel &
Suites Boston - Cambridge $$
Langham Boston Hotel $$$ 250 Monsignor O’Brien Hwy,
250 Franklin St, 02110 Chinatown and the Cambridge, 02141
Tel (617) 451-1900 Map 2 D4 Theater District Tel (617) 577-7600
∑ langhamboston.com ∑ hiecambridge.com
Art Nouveau building with 19th- Courtyard Boston Dependable roadside option,
century French decor. Spacious Downtown $$ just a short walk to the
rooms with deluxe amenities. 275 Tremont St, 02116 nearest transportation.
Tel (617) 426-1400 Map 4 E2
Millennium Bostonian $$$ ∑ marriott.com Hotel Indigo Boston-Newton
26 North St, 02109 Designed in a dramatic style, Riverside $$
Tel (617) 523-3600 Map 2 D3 this Marriott property has crystal 339 Grove St, Newton, 02462
∑ millenniumhotels.com chandeliers and marble columns. Tel (617) 454-3399
Upscale accommodations near Rooms feature modern amenities ∑ newtonboutiquehotel.com
Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Elegant with a 1920s allure. Eco-friendly, state-of-the-art
rooms range in size. There is a rooms. Decor changes seasonally.
gas-burning fireplace in the lobby. Outdoor pool has private cabanas.
Farther Afield Popular on-site restaurant.
XV Beacon $$$
15 Beacon St, 02108 Kendall Hotel $$$
Tel (617) 670-1500 Map 1 C4 DK Choice 350 Main St, Cambridge, 02142
∑ xvbeacon.com Constitution Inn $ Tel (617) 577-1300
Designer decor and attentive 150 Third Ave, Charlestown, ∑ kendallhotel.com
service. Chic but cozy rooms 02129 A century-old firehouse converted
feature high-tech extras. Popular Tel (617) 241-8400 by an artist-architect duo. Offers
with business execs. ∑ constitutioninn.org spacious rooms. Decor includes fire-
Conveniently located in the house memorabilia and antiques.
historic Charlestown Navy
Yard, the Constitution Inn
Value offers clean, comfortable Old Boston and the
Back Bay and South End
rooms, some of which have Financial District
attached kitchenettes. Guests
Midtown Hotel $ enjoy standard amenities such Harborside Inn $$
220 Huntington Ave, 02115 as Wi-Fi, cable TV, along with 185 State St, 02109
Tel (617) 262-1000 Map 3 B4 use of a pool and a fitness Tel (617) 723-7500 Map 2 E3
∑ midtownhotel.com center. The property sits on ∑ harborsideinnboston.com
This 1960s-style motor inn boasts the Freedom Trail, just a short Modest property in an old spice
simple style, great value, and stroll to key sites such as the warehouse. Rooms have wooden
secure parking. The connecting U.S.S. Constitution and the floors, exposed brick walls, oriental
rooms are perfect for big families. Bunker Hill Monument. rugs, and traditional furnishings.
Charlesmark Hotel $$
655 Boylston St, 02116 Days Hotel Boston $
Tel (617) 247-1212 Map 3 C2 1234 Soldiers Field Rd, 02135
∑ charlesmarkhotel.com Tel (617) 254-1234
Contemporary, European-style ∑ daysinn.com
hotel set in an 1892 town house. Clean and basic accommodations
Rooms feature custom-made on the Charles River. Rooms
furniture and Italian tiles. boast attractive water views.
Just a short ride away from
Harvard Square.
Beacon Hill and
West End enVision Hotel Boston $$
81 South Huntington Ave, Jamaica
Friend Street Hostel $ Plain, 02130
234 Friend St, 02114 Tel (617) 383-5229
Tel (617) 248-8971 Map 1 C2 ∑ envision-hotel-boston.com
∑ friendstreethostel.com Upscale decor, local historic
Clean and inexpensive architecture, modern style, com-
dormitory-style accommodations fortable rooms and personal
close to all area attractions. service make this a great option to
Rooms have many amenities. stay. Evening receptions feature Luxurious studio appointed with all modern
Friendly atmosphere. regional appetizers and desserts. comforts at XV Beacon Hotel
For more information on types of hotels see page 133
WHERE TO EAT
AND DRINK
For a number of years, Boston had a city delight in using fresh New England
reputation of serving stodgy, old New produce to create their innovative dishes.
England fare. Today, however, this is no The top restaurants serve a medley of
longer the case, as the city now has a wide styles, such as French and Italian, often
variety of exciting places to eat. Along using other Mediterranean and Asian
with more traditional cuisine, Boston accents. For other flavors of the world,
restaurants show many diverse influences, Boston has many Indian, Southeast Asian,
with dynamic immigrant restaurateurs Latin American, Caribbean, Chinese, and
and innovative chefs transforming the Japanese restaurants, which are located
local restaurant culture. Celebrated chefs in small neighborhoods and fashionable
also bring classic Boston cuisine to life for streets alike. Boston has an excellent
modern palates, and eateries all over the selection of cafés and bars as well.
restaurants are in the Financial including beer and wine, after

District and Downtown. Those 2am, so bars and most restau
in Back Bay, North End and rants will close by then. There
South End tend to be trendy are some very late night
and youthful, while eateries restaurants in Chinatown and
in Cambridge are generally Kenmore Square, supported
more relaxed. The websites mostly by the ravenous crowds
bostonchefs.com and boston. leaving dance clubs and bars.
menupages.com are useful On Sundays, restaurants begin
for menus and prices. serving alcohol at noon. Cock
tails at brunch are very popular,
especially in the South End.
Opening Hours
The types of meals served
The old-world elegance of the dining room at many restaurants vary Paying and Tipping
at Grill 23 (see p147) according to the estab Most restaurants with table
lishment and its location. service will bring diners their bill
Eating the Bostonian Way Many downtown restaurants at the end of the meal. The bill
If your lodgings do not include are open only for breakfast will have a 7 per cent state and
breakfast, you can join locals on and lunch, while some finer local meals tax added to the
their way to work and have a restaurants are open only for total. All restaurants with table
bagel and a cup of steaming dinner. Some restaurants close service expect diners to tip their
coffee in one of the city’s many for a few hours between lunch waiter, who is paid a very low
delis and coffee bars. Most and dinner, while smaller family rate with the expectation that
places also offer pastries, run places may stay open tips will fill out their salary. The
muffins, coffee cake, tea, and throughout the afternoon, standard tip is 15–20 per cent of
fruit juices. Diners offer richer, making them a good bet for the pretax bill. If service is espe
more substantial breakfasts eating at more unusual times. cially good or bad, adjust the tip
of bacon, eggs, potatoes, and Generally, lunch is served accordingly. If paying by credit
toast, with a “bottomless” cup from 11:30am to 2:30pm, and card, guests may include the tip
of coffee – one with free refills. dinner from 5:30 to 10:30pm. in the charged amount. Fast food
Lunches in Boston may also Massachusetts state law restaurants may have optional
be a simple sandwich or a larger prohibits the sale of alcohol, tip jars next to the cashier.
meal in a restaurant, depending
on how much time travelers
have, and how hungry they are.
Business districts abound with
lunch options – join office
workers at a lunch counter in
Downtown for a “sub” or a grinder
(long rolls stuffed with meat).
Dinner is the biggest meal of
the day for Bostonians. Many of
the most exclusive and elegant The Barking Crab restaurant, near downtown Boston (see p144)
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K  139
and gourmet sandwiches

on baguette or focaccia. Pizza
is another ubiquitous meal,
and bagels, spread with cream
cheese, are a popular snack
eaten on the go. Burritos are
hearty portable meals of meat,
beans, and cheese rolled into a
flour tortilla. Downtown and
Harvard Square are good places
for fast food, with their many
lunch counters catering to
business people. These are
The well-stocked bar at The Oceanaire Seafood Room, a restaurant in Boston (see p144) reliable and easy on the wallet.
Booking Children
Finer restaurants often require Children are welcome in most Recommended
a reservation, although in most midrange restaurants, although Restaurants
cases (especially on week in the business areas, restaurants The restaurants featured in this
nights) this can be made at are often less accustomed to guide have been selected across
short notice. There are a few them. Avoid restaurants that have a wide price range for their value,
very popular places that do not a large bar and young crowds, good food, atmosphere, and
accept reservations, and guests as they are less likely to permit location. These restaurants range
must put their names on the under21s on the premises. from nofrills seafood shacks to
waiting list. The host will tell pricey temples of gastronomy.
guests how long they can Many venues often host private
expect to wait. Disabilities events or close unexpectedly
A number of restaurants in due to any number of issues, so
Boston and Cambridge are acces it’s always wise to consult a
Alcohol and Smoking sible by wheelchair, and many restaurant’s website or call
The tide has turned in favor of are accessible to people with before visiting.
nonsmokers throughout other disabilities. Doors may be For the best of the best,
Greater Boston, with complete fitted with an automatic opener, look out for restaurants fea
bans on indoor smoking in pub and restrooms usually include tured as “DK Choice”. These
lic places including restaurants the appropriate stalls and sinks. establishments have been
and bars. Outdoor smoking is highlighted in recognition
also prohibited at playgrounds of an exceptional feature – a
and other posted areas. Fast Food celebrity chef, exquisite food,
Twentyone is the legal Being a college city, Boston or an inviting atmosphere.
drinking age, so underage is teeming with fast food Since most of these are very
travelers should be aware that options. Sandwiches come in popular among local residents
they will be denied access to infinite varieties – the classic and visitors alike, it is advisable
most bars. They will not be sandwich being found along to inquire about reservations
able to order wine with dinner with “wraps” (fillings wrapped to avoid facing a lengthy
in restaurants, either. If there is up in a flatbread), “grinders”, wait for a table.
any doubt that a person is old
enough, proof will be required,
so use I.D. or passport if asked.
Etiquette
Bostonians tend to dress
casually when dining out.
Restaurants that enforce
dress codes usually require
a reservation, so ask when
booking. For the top dining
rooms, a jacket and tie for
men is expected. Ladies may
wear slacks, although skirts
or dresses are more traditional.
Formal evening wear is uncom
mon, but not out of place
in the finer restaurants. Enjoying a beer outside at one of Quincy Market’s bars
The Flavors of Boston

Geography and history have given New England some fine and
highly distinctive culinary traditions. Its long coastline accounts
for the region’s abundance of superb seafood. Early settlers
brought dishes from England, such as boiled dinners and
puddings, that remain popular to this day, as do a range of
staples introduced to them by Native Americans, such as corn,
maple syrup, and cranberries. The ethnic make-up of Boston has
also led to some surprising culinary highlights. Thanks to a large New England apples
Italian community, Boston boasts some of the best and most
authentic pizza in America, and the large Irish population
ensures there are plenty of hearty Irish dishes to enjoy.
restaurants serve mouth- The Mighty Clam

watering lobster dishes, No food is more ubiquitous in
where diners can pick their New England than clams. They
own freshly-caught lobster are served in so many different
from a tank, then sit back and ways: steamed, stuffed, baked,
relax while it is steamed or minced in fish cakes or in
boiled, according to their the famous New England
wishes. Lobster dishes are clam chowder. Large hard-
usually served up with an shelled quahog clams are
accompaniment of melted often stuffed and baked
butter for dipping the meat for a dish known in nearby
into and cups of clear, Rhode Island as a “stuffie.”
Lobster meal at one of Boston’s steaming seafood broth. Clam chowder styles show
seafood restaurants
Corn on the cob Baked potato Steamed clams Boiled
Gifts from the Sea Melted butter
lobster
Seafood is king in New England.
The cold waters along the coast
yield a bounty of delicious fish
such as scrod (young cod),
haddock, and swordfish.
Lobster is a particularly coveted
delicacy. Tanks of live lobsters
are shipped to restaurants all
around America, but nowhere
are they as succulent and sweet
as they are in their home region.
Several of Boston’s best A typical New England clambake dinner
Local Dishes and Specialties

Like most Americans, New Englanders tend to have a light lunch
and their main meal in the evening. Perhaps because of the cold
winters, breakfasts are hearty. Some New England dining
experiences are too good to miss. At least one breakfast
should include wild blueberry pancakes or muffins,
and another an omelette made with tangy Vermont
cheddar. Other musts are a lunch of lobster roll (chunks
of sweet lobster meat in a mayonnaise-based
dressing, stuffed into a toasted bun), New England
clam chowder, and one of the region’s famous
clambake dinners. A visit to Boston is hardly
complete without sampling the superb local Blueberry pancakes Small wild
scrod and its rich, classic Boston cream pie, blueberries are stirred into batter
both found on menus all over the city, along with to make a stack of these thick
Maple Syrup Vermont’s favorite ice cream, Ben and Jerry’s. pancakes.
New American Cuisine

Boston’s best chefs are
masters of “New American”
cuisine, emphasizing the use
of the freshest ingredients,
in-season fruits and vege-
tables, and light, healthy
sauces. Often dishes have
touches of Mediterranean and
Asian spices. Seasonal menus
include game in winter and
fall, and fresh seafood year
round. In the growing season,
many dishes also feature
fresh fruit and berries. To
ensure freshness, produce
Colorful display of pumpkins at a local farmers’ market comes from nearby growers.
Presentation is important,
considerable regional In the 19th century, molasses with dishes planned to please
variation. Boston has a from the Caribbean was used the eye as well as the palate.
distinctive interpretation of as a sweetener, and it is still
this broth, made with a cream added to many traditional WHAT TO DRINK
sauce, potatoes, and onions, sweet treats, such as Indian
which makes it much richer pudding, a delicious slow- Poland Spring water This
than the clear tomato-based baked confection of spiced bottled water from Maine is
cornmeal, molasses, and milk. popular with Bostonians.
version served in Manhattan.
Frappé A New England-style
milkshake made with ice
Sweet Offerings cream and chocolate syrup.
Sugar maples, which bring a Westport Rivers wines
dazzling display of color to the These are always a favorite
hillsides in autumn, yield yet at the annual Boston
another bonus in late winter. wine festivals.
They can then be tapped and Samuel Adams and
their sap boiled down to Harpoon beers New England’s
produce maple syrup. This best known brands have roots
is served on pancakes and in Boston.
made into candy (sweets) Micro-brewery beers Sample
and sauces. New England’s Boston Beer Works’ “Boston Red,”
vast acres of wild blueberries, named after the city’s Red Sox
along with its many apple baseball team, or any one of
orchards and pumpkin fields, the English-style pale ales
also lend themselves to a Freshly picked wild blueberries, from the made by Tremont Brewery.
variety of delectable desserts. bumper summer harvest
Baked scrod Fillets of young New England clam chowder Boston cream pie Layers of
cod (scrod) are rolled in Fresh clams, either left whole or sponge cake, sandwiched with
breadcrumbs, baked, and then chopped, and chunks of potato egg custard, are topped with
served with tartare sauce. fill this creamy soup. chocolate icing.
Where to Eat and Drink

veggies are crowd-pullers. Be Price Guide
Beacon Hill and prepared for long waits at lunch. Prices are based on a three-course
meal for one, including a half-bottle
West End Dinner is quiet and romantic.
of house wine, tax and service.
Anna’s Taqueria $ Beacon Hill Bistro $$ $ under $30
Mexican Map 1 B3 New American Map 1 B4 $$ $30 to 70
$$$ over $70
242 Cambridge St, 02114 25 Charles St, 02114
Tel (617) 227-8822 Tel (617) 723-1133
Cafeteria-style chain serving Staples such as pancakes and Lala Rokh $$
Mexican-American burritos. homefries are served for breakfast Middle Eastern Map 1 B4
Popular among students and the and lunch in an authentic bistro 97 Mt Vernon St, 02114
surrounding medical community. setting. Dinner features a New Tel (617) 720-5511
Al pastor (spit-grilled meat) and American spin on French bistro Authentic Persian cuisine served
carnitas (shredded fried or roasted cuisine, with dishes such as steak- in romantic surroundings. Citrus-
pork) are favorites. No alcohol. frites and pan-seared hake. Sample based glazes and relishes give
from the wine list at the bar. meats a piquant flavor. Decadent
Panificio $ desserts feature dates and nuts.
Italian Map 1 B3 Cheers $$
144 Charles St, 02114 American Map 1 B4 The Paramount $$
Tel (617) 227-4340 84 Beacon St, 02108 American Map 1 B4
Much sought after bakery Tel (617) 227-9605 44 Charles St, 02114
specializing in rustic Italian This celebrated bar was the Tel (617) 720-1152
breads, pastries, and coffee inspiration for the legendary A comfort-food destination open
drinks. Light meals, soups, and 1980s TV show of the same name. since 1937. Pancakes and french
sandwiches are served all day Standard bar food such as buffalo toast are favorites. Dinner features
long in the friendly dining room. wings, fish-and-chips, and paninis table service and hearty dishes
Brunch is a huge draw. No alcohol. are on offer. A variety of memora- such as pasta and noodles. Busiest
bilia is available for purchase. during breakfast and lunch, which
75 Chestnut $$ are served cafeteria-style.
American Map 1 B4 Figs $$
75 Chestnut St, 02108 Pizza Map 1 B4 Tip Tap Room $$
Tel (617) 227-2175 42 Charles St, 02114 American Map 1 C3
Converted town house in a quiet Tel (617) 742-3447 138 Cambridge St, 02114
area offering a welcoming dining Well-known pizza place in Tel (857) 350-3344
experience. Delicious, upscale the heart of Beacon Hill. The This bar and grill draws
bistro fare includes Nantucket signature pie is topped with government workers with its
seafood stew and black truffle caramelized figs, prosciutto, menu of burgers, plus fried
ravioli. The casual bar area is and gorgonzola cheese. Baked avocado and some gnocchi,
great for watching sports. pastas are also a crowd puller. risotto, and steak plates. Good
Lively environs. selection of local craft beers.
Artú $$
Italian Map 1 B4 Grotto $$ Bin 26 Enoteca $$$
89 Charles St, 02114 Italian Map 1 C3 Italian Map 1 B4
Tel (617) 227-9023 37 Bowdoin St, 02114 26 Charles St, 02114
Visit this casual spot for Tuscan Tel (617) 227-3434 Tel (617) 723-5939
specialties from an exposed Welcoming eatery with a varied Stylish contemporary restaurant
sizzling grill. Juicy roast pork, menu of dishes such as home- that puts emphasis on its exten-
seasoned chicken, and grilled made pasta, grilled calamari with sive wine list. The menu features
white beans, grilled beef tender- an adventurous take on traditional
loin, and crab ravioli. Friendly staff. Italian food. The stuzzichini (small
bites) are impressive. Cocoa pasta
Harvard Gardens $$ with wild mushrooms is a must-try.
American Map 1 B3
316 Cambridge St, 02114
Tel (617) 523-2727 DK Choice
Attracts a diverse crowd of No. 9 Park $$$
diners with an extensive menu French-Italian Map 1 C4
of comfort food served till late. 9 Park St, 02108
The handsome bar hosts Tel (617) 742-9991
a renowned singles scene. Perhaps the most popular of
celebrity chef Barbara Lynch's
King and I $$ local culinary empire, this chic
Thai Map 1 B3 restaurant is frequented by
145 Charles St, 02114 Beacon Hill high flyers. The
Tel (617) 227-3320 inventive fare includes prune-
Savory, authentic Thai staples are stuffed gnocchi with vin santo
served in this small casual eatery. glaze. The hip bar serves
Vegetarians are well-catered to. cocktails and a slightly less
Elegantly laid-out tables at No. 9 Park, an The food can be very spicy. expensive, more casual menu.
upscale restaurant in Beacon Hill Takeout is popular.
sports, playing trivia, and

enjoying live Irish music.
Sakura-Bana $$
Japanese Map 2 E4
57 Broad St, 02109
Tel (617) 542-4311
This sushi house in the Financial
District appeals to those looking
for fresh, affordable maki rolls,
sashimi, and other Japanese
fare. Friendly servers patrol the
simply decorated environs.
DK Choice
Silvertone $$
American Map 1 C4
Lively crowds enjoying beer and pub grub at The Black Rose, Financial District 69 Bromfield St, 02108
Tel (617) 338-7887
Scampo $$$ Sam LaGrassa’s $ A subterranean hangout near
Italian Map 1 B3 Deli/Latin American Map 2 D4 Downtown Crossing and the
215 Charles St, 02114 44 Province St, 02108 Boston Common, Silvertone
Tel (617) 536-2100 Tel (617) 357-6861 is a favorite among industry
Located within the stylish Busy downtown eatery that crowds and foodies looking for
Liberty Hotel, this trendy creates some of the city’s best well-prepared American fare.
spot offers a modern Italian- sandwiches stuffed with freshly The rich mac ‘n’ cheese and
accented menu. Highlights carved meats. Share a table with juicy burgers are legendary.
include suckling pig, baby local workers or enjoy your The lively bar area is an ideal
lamb, home-made pastas, sandwich on the Boston Common. spot for couples or groups,
and a range of dishes made thanks to an impressive drink
with fresh mozzarella. Anthem $$ menu, featuring hand-crafted
American Map 2 D3 cocktails and an assortment
Toscano Restaurant $$$ 101 South Market St, 02109 of shareable snacks.
Italian Map 1 B4 Tel (617) 720-5570
47 Charles St, 02114 A greenhouse-like place with wall-
Tel (617) 723-4090 to-wall windows facing Faneuil Society on High $$
Prestigious Italian restaurant Hall. The menu features steak New American Map 1 D4
with interesting upscale versions house grub and wood-grilled 99 High St, 02110
of popular pasta dishes. The flatbread pizzas. The congenial Tel (857) 350-4555
beautiful setting and excellent setting includes two bar areas. Smart and contemporary, this
service add to the romantic bistro in the Financial District
atmosphere. Extensive wine The Black Rose $$ has New England specialties
list boasts many bold labels. Irish Map 2 E3 like fish and chips and clam
160 State St, 02109 chowder, alongside a huge
Tel (617) 742-2286 choice of tapas. The lobster
Irish bar filled with interesting poached in butter is heavenly.
Old Boston and the bric-a-brac. The extensive
Financial District beer list is accompanied by
standard Irish pub grub. Very
Union Oyster House $$
Seafood Map 2 D3
Boloco $ crowded on St Patrick’s Day 41 Union St, 02110
Café Map 2 D4 and other Irish festivals. Tel (617) 227-2750
284 Congress St, 02210 One of the oldest restaurants in
Tel (617) 284-7488 Durgin Park $$ America, this place was a favorite
Casual area chain known for American Map 2 D3 of President Kennedy. The menu
an eclectic menu of burritos 340 Faneuil Hall Marketplace, 02109 features a bounty of seafood.
and wraps. Fresh, healthy Tel (617) 227-2038 Boston scrod and the raw bar are
ingredients attract mostly Historic spot dating back to 1826. recommended. Feast on oysters
locals looking for a quick, Family-style seating makes for a from around the world.
nutritious lunch. No alcohol. bustling atmosphere. Traditional
dishes include baked beans, Bond Restaurant
Chacarero $ Indian pudding, and grilled and Lounge $$$
Deli Map 2 D4 prime rib. Generous portions. New American Map 2 D4
101 Arch St, 02108 250 Franklin St, 02110
Tel (617) 542-0392 The Kinsale $$ Tel (617) 451-1900
This no-frills Downtown Crossing Irish Map 1 C3 The locavore menu at this
lunch spot is famous for its 2 Center Plaza, 02108 cosmopolitan spot boasts an
authentic Chilean sandwiches Tel (617) 742-5577 array of dishes featuring local
of smoky grilled meat and Handsome Irish bar and restaurant seafood and farm-fresh veggies.
flavorful toppings piled onto with a huge sidewalk patio. House charcuterie leads into such
spongy fresh bread. Watch The lengthy menu incorporates entrées as steaks, braised lamb
out for the fiery hot sauces. both Irish and American dishes. shank, and diver scallops. The
No alcohol. Popular hangout for watching decor exudes an air of privilege.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 139
Mooo… $$$
Steak House Map 1 C4
15 Beacon St, 02108
Tel (617) 670-2515
Unusually named steak house
in the chic XV Beacon Hotel.
The extensive menu has plenty
of options beyond fine steaks
and chops. Efficient service.
The Oceanaire
Seafood Room $$$
Seafood Map 2 D3
40 Court St, 02108
Tel (617) 742-2277
Part of a small national chain
of upscale fish restaurants, that
offers a versatile menu of out
standing seafood, both local and Classy interiors of The Oceanaire Seafood Room, Financial District
flown in fresh. The setting retains
the marble charm of the bank Barking Crab $$ Maurizio’s Ristorante
that once occupied the space. Seafood Map 2 E5 Italiano $$
88 Sleeper St, 02110 Italian Map 2 E2
Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse $$$ Tel (617) 426-2722 364 Hanover St, 02113
Steak House Map 2 D4 This vibrant fish shack is at its Tel (617) 367-1123
45 School St, 02108 peak in summer. Choose from Lovely spot with a menu featuring
Tel (617) 742-8401 exceptionally fresh local seafood Sardinian dishes and focusing on
Prime cuts of beef and rich, sinful such as lobster, clams, haddock, excellent seafood preparations.
sides such as sauteed mush and cod. Lovely skyline views. Sardinian and Ligurian white
rooms and potatoes au gratin, are Outdoor seating. wines complement the bold
served at this restaurant in the flavors. The handmade stuffed
old City Hall building. Part of an Dino’s Café $$ pastas are a musttry.
international chain, Ruth’s has an Italian/Deli Map 2 D2
extensive list of highend wines 141 Salem St, 02113 Neptune Oyster $$
and a sommelier to guide you Tel (617) 227-1991 Seafood Map 2 D2
through it. Tiny, nofrills eatery offering 63 Salem St, 02113
a variety of hearty meals. The Tel (617) 742-3474
huge Italian sandwiches are a Expect a wait for a table at
favorite with locals. Pasta dishes this small seafood eatery.
North End and are also delicious and can serve Exceptionally fresh raw bar items
the Waterfront two. Impeccable service. jockey for attention with expertly
prepared dishes. Friendly staff.
Ernesto’s Pizzeria $ Giacomo’s Ristorante $$
Pizza Map 2 D2 Italian Map 2 E2 Sportello $$
69 Salem St, 02113 355 Hanover St, 02113 Italian Map 2 E5
Tel (617) 523-1373 Tel (617) 523-9026 348 Congress St, 02116
Simple place with plastic seating One of North End’s most enduring Tel (617) 737-1234
offering 24 different pizza topping restaurants, Giacomo’s serves Homemade pastas, gourmet
combinations. The signature classic Italian dishes, including soups, grilled paninis, veal
mala femina pie is topped with hearty portions of pasta. Casual sweetbreads, day boat scallops,
artichoke hearts, fresh tomatoes, atmosphere. Cash only. and elegant decor. The takeout
and blue cheese. Delivery avail counter has freshly baked breads
able to most Boston hotel rooms. James Hook & Co. $$ and imported Italian treats.
Seafood Map 2 E4
Pizzeria Regina $ 440 Atlantic Ave, 02111 State Street Provisions $$
Pizza Map 2 D2 Tel (617) 423-5501 New American Map 1 E3
11 1/2 Thatcher St, 02113 Located on Fort Point Channel, 265 State St, 02210
Tel (617) 227-0765 this seafood market is popular Tel (617) 863-8363
Open since 1926, this is one of with locals who pop in for freshly This classy bar and bistro at the
the city’s bestknown pizza spots. cooked lobster, clams, crab, and foot of Long Wharf serves modern
Feast on amazing brickoven pies fish togo. Superb lobster rolls. comfort fare, from a great house
accompanied by inexpensive wine. No alcohol. charcuterie and cheese board
to inventive pizzas, daily pasta
Antico Forno $$ La Famiglia Giorgio $$ specials, and lobster rolls. The
Italian Map 2 D2 Italian Map 2 D2 bar can get loud in evenings.
93 Salem St, 02108 112 Salem St, 02113
Tel (617) 723-6733 Tel (617) 367-6711 Terramia $$
Tasty woodfired pizzas draw in Known for its generous portions Italian Map 2 D2
locals and tourists alike to two and upbeat ambience, this is a 98 Salem St, 02113
casual dining rooms with great place for families and couples. Tel (617) 523-3112
colorful murals and brickwork. Serves pastas, pizzas, and other This snug trattoria eschews the
Menu also includes homemade Italian staples. Coffee and dessert redsauce neighborhood heritage
pastas. Reserve in advance. are served – a North End rarity. in favor of Piedmontese roasted
Key to Price Guide see page 142
meats, savory dishes with dark Meritage $$$ Gourmet Dumpling House $
mushrooms and caramelized New American Map 2 E4 Chinese Map 1 C5
onions, and Ligurian-style seafood 70 Rowes Wharf, 02110 52 Beach St, 02111
dressed with capers and lemon. Tel (617) 439-3995 Tel (617) 338-6223
A superb destination for wine Simple Chinatown eatery that
Trade $$ lovers. The varied menu features tempts with authentic hand-
New American Map 2 E4 suggested wine pairings for each made dumplings and other
540 Atlantic Ave, 02210 dish. Rich desserts and fine Chinese comfort food such as
Tel (617) 451-1234 cheeses matched to ports and spicy fish Szechuan, eel noodles,
Breezy after-work hot spot Sauternes provide a great finish. and herbal squid and oxtail soup.
serving Mediterranean-inspired
bites, flatbreads, craft beers, and My Thai Vegan Cafe $
designer cocktails. Huge win- DK Choice Vegan Map 1 C5
dows look out onto the Kennedy Prezza $$$ 3 Beach St, 02111
Greenway. The bar is popular. Italian Map 2 E2 Tel (617) 451-2395
24 Fleet St, 02113 Casual Asian eatery specializing in
Yankee Lobster Company $$ Tel (617) 227-1577 vegetarian and vegan dishes such
Seafood The menu here is based on the as curry rice noodles with bean
300 Northern Ave, 02210 cuisine of Abruzzo, in Italy, sprouts, ginger tofu, and mango
Tel (617) 345-9799 with handmade pastas and fried rice. Many of the meatless
Simple seafood eatery close meat and fish dishes cooked options on the lengthy menu
to the waterfront. Popular patio on a wood-burning grill. The feature imitation proteins.
area provides a breezy setting extensive wine list has the Friendly staff. No alcohol.
to enjoy steamed lobster, fish perfect pairings for the hearty
and chips, and clam chowder. Tuscan fare and the desserts Pho Pasteur $
are deliciously decadent. Vietnamese Map 1 C5
Bricco $$$ 682 Washington St, 02111
Italian Map 2 D2 Tel (617) 482-7467
241 Hanover St, 02113 Scopa $$$ Popular restaurant serving steam-
Tel (617) 248-6800 Italian Map 2 E2 ing bowls of pho (Vietnamese
Stylish trattoria that is a great 319 Hanover St, 02113 noodle soup) and other pan-
spot for socializing over Abruzzo- Tel (857) 317-2871 Asian treats such as wontons,
style pastas or inventive dishes Maybe the best handmade fried rice, and seafood dishes.
such as steamed mussels with pasta in the North End, along No alcohol.
smoked red pepper and braised with classic starters, boldly
broccoli rabe. Window tables roasted meats, and four Chau Chow City $$
afford colorful North End views. gourmet pizza options. Chinese Map 4 F2
83 Essex St, 02111
Carmen $$$ Tel (617) 338-8158
Italian Map 2 E2 Modern Hong Kong seafood
33 North Sq, 02113 Chinatown and the dishes, such as scallops with green
Tel (617) 742-6421 Theater District beans and macadamia nuts, top
Cozy eatery specializing in the menu on the lower two floors.
small plates – such as mussels Dong Khanh $ A third level serves dim sum. The
and cheeses – with great wine Vietnamese Map 1 C5 shrimp dumplings are renowned.
pairings. Fine pastas with classic 81 Harrison Ave, 02111
sauces are also available. Close Tel (617) 426-9410 East Ocean City $$
quarters and seating below A favorite among Boston’s Chinese Map 4 E2
street level make for a romantic Vietnamese residents, this 27 Beach St, 02111
atmosphere. homey market bistro offers Tel (617) 542-2504
light noodle soups and classic Legendary spot where seafood is
Legal Harborside $$$ dishes such as chopped salads, taken from tanks in front of diners
Seafood lemongrass chicken, and mixed and cooked immediately. Friendly
270 Northern Ave, 02210 seafood plates. Good vegetarian servers help in choosing from the
Tel (617) 477-2900 choices. No alcohol. wide-ranging menu.
Legendary local chain serving
fresh fish in a waterfront, fine-
dining setting. Their clam chowder
is unrivaled and the raw clams
and oysters are impeccable.
Menton $$$
French/Italian Map 2 E5
354 Congress St, 02210
Tel (617) 737-0099
The crown jewel of celebrity chef
Barbara Lynch's fleet of Boston
eateries. Pricey set menus are
executed by an expert culinary
team. Knowledgeable servers
explain the menu’s many
intricacies and guide patrons
through the impressive wine list. Casual dining area with an open kitchen at Sportello (see opposite), in Fort Point
For more information on types of restaurants see page 139
as duck tongue, steamed taro,

DK Choice or clay pot meatballs. Lunch
Jacob Wirth Restaurant $$ specials are a steal. Cash only.
German Map 4 E2
31 Stuart St, 02116 Teatro $$
Tel (617) 338-8586 Italian Map 1 C5
Open since 1868, this landmark 177 Tremont St, 02111
old-fashioned spot has a wel- Tel (617) 778-6841
coming atmosphere and is best This converted synagogue
known for its bratwurst with features a high, arched open kit-
sauerkraut and potato salad. chen, and a theatrical ambience.
Walls are lined with historical Offers a light grill menu and a
memorabilia. Friday night piano broad selection of northern Italian
sing-alongs are enjoyed by seafood and veal dishes. Reserve
lively collegiate groups. ahead for pre-theater dining.
Winsor Dim Sum Cafe $$

Peach Farm $$ Chinese Map 1 C5 A dish of spicy dry-fried salted squid
Chinese Map 4 F2 10 Tyler St, 02111 at Peach Farm, Chinatown
4 Tyler St, 02111 Tel (617) 338-1688
Tel (617) 482-1116 A much sought-after spot for Gourmet regional Italian fare
Dine in one of the several rooms authentic dim sum. Patrons served in style in an attractive,
that make up this local favorite. order from the menu rather than clandestine Bay Village space.
Sesame jellyfish, and salt and selecting from carts. Be prepared A romantic find for a quiet
pepper eel are house specialties. for long queues on weekends. pre-theater dinner. The well-
Open till late. curated wine list features
Bristol Lounge $$$ many rare varietals.
Penang $$ New American Map 1 B5
Malaysian Map 1 C5 200 Boylston St, 02116 Legal Sea Foods $$$
685 Washington St, 02111 Tel (617) 351-2037 Seafood Map 1 B5
Tel (617) 451-6373 Located in the Four Seasons hotel, 26 Park Plaza, 02116
A chiefly Malaysian menu this all-purpose restaurant is one Tel (617) 426-4444
ranging from noodle staples of the city’s best spots for This local chain is a national
and spicy curry dishes to more afternoon tea, upscale dining with leader in setting quality standards
contemporary concoctions. kids, or a romantic rendezvous. for fish. Extensive wine cellar.
Popular with homesick expats. On the menu are seafood dishes, Popular for Back Bay business
risotto, ravioli, pasta, and chowder. lunches and after-dinner drinks.
Shabu-Zen $$
Chinese Map 4 F2 Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar $$$ Troquet $$$
16 Tyler St, 02111 Greek Map 1 B5 French Map 1 B5
Tel (617) 292-8828 79 Park Plaza, 02116 140 Boylston St, 02116
Swirl raw vegetables and Tel (617) 422-0008 Tel (617) 695-9463
slivers of meat and fish in hot This hip spot pays homage to Wine lovers fill the diminutive
broth with accompanying the family recipes of the chef’s dining room of this old building
seasonings and choice of Greek wife. Small plates (mezze) facing the Boston Common. The
noodles at this eatery. Popular offer savory tastes, while the kitchen prepares modern French-
for its delectable hot pot. catch of the day forms the inspired dishes, which are per-
backbone of the entrée menu. fectly paired with selections from
Taiwan Café $$ Do not miss the lamb shoulder. the owner's vast wine collection.
Taiwanese Map 4 F2
34 Oxford St, 02111 Erbaluce $$$
Tel (617) 426-8181 Italian Map 4 D2
Locals flock here to dine on 69 Church St, 02116 Back Bay and
Taiwanese comfort food such Tel (617) 426-6969 South End
Mike’s City Diner $
American Map 3 C5
1714 Washington St, 02118
Tel (617) 267-9393
Eager customers line up early at
Mike’s for filling, greasy breakfast
classics such as corned beef hash
and home fries. The menu also
features hearty home-made soups
and stews, meaty sandwiches and
triple-layer burgers. No alcohol.
Trident Booksellers & Café $

Café Map 3 A3
Tel (617) 267-8688
This bookstore café has a huge
Outside tables shaded by umbrellas at Jacob Wirth Restaurant, Theater District breakfast menu of home-made
corned beef hash, burritos, and Tapeo $$ L’Espalier $$$

omelets. A long bar faces the Spanish Map 3 B2 French Map 3 B3
open kitchen. Window tables 266 Newbury St, 02116 774 Boylston St, 2138
overlook Newbury Street. Tel (617) 267-4799 Tel (617) 262-3023
Authentic tapas bar specializing This premier restaurant serves
Coppa $$ in small plates. Serves true jamón award-winning, modern French
Italian Map 4 D4 serrano (dry-cured Spanish ham cuisine that emphasizes local,
253 Shawmut Ave, 02118 slices), a rarity in the area, plus artisanal ingredients. Try the
Tel (617) 391-0902 exquisite dishes such as boneless butter-poached Maine lobster
Award-winning restauarnt and pheasant breast and garlicky squid. and cocoa-rubbed venison.
enoteca (wine store) serving
small plates of flavorful Italian Tico $$ Grill 23 $$$
fare such as stuzzichini, salumi Latin American Map 1 A5 Steak House Map 4 D2
(cured meat), antipasti (Italian 222 Berkeley St, 02116 161 Berkeley St, 02116
appetizers), pastas, and wood Tel (617) 351-0400 Tel (617) 542-2255
fired pizzas. Well-chosen wine list. The menu here features a range Serving prime cuts of beef since
of regional dishes such as ceviches, 1983. The bar offers exquisite
Orinoco $$ tostadas, and tacos. Try the roasted martinis and the menu is based
Latin American Map 3 C5 cauliflower with chipotle and on seasonal ingredients. The 900-
477 Shawmut Ave, 02118 crunchy favas. The stylish bar has plus label wine list is considered
Tel (617) 369-7075 an impressive list of fine tequilas. among the city’s best.
Enjoy specialties such as arepas
and plantain-stuffed empanadas B&G Oysters $$$ Oishii $$$
while being serenaded with Seafood Map 4 D4 Japanese Map 4 E4
Latin music under the tin 550 Tremont St, 02116 1166 Washington St, 2116
ceiling of this 1890s building. Tel (617) 423-0550 Tel (617) 482-8868
Subterranean spot for mollusk Top-rated spot for gourmet
Parish Café $$ fans. Features a marble bar and Japanese fare. Fresh ingredients
Café Map 1 A5 an open kitchen. At least a dozen are diced, rolled, and torched
361 Boylston St, 02116 varieties of oysters are available into artfully presented platters of
Tel (617) 247-4777 at any given time. Broad selection sushi and sashimi. Minimalist
Casual bar-restaurant featuring of mineral-rich white wines. interior and courteous servers.
menu items crafted by some
of the most famous chefs in Brasserie Jo $$$ Sonsie $$$
Boston. Inventive sandwiches French Map 3 B3 Italian/International Map 3 A3
include the delicious lobster 120 Huntington Ave, 02116 327 Newbury St, 02116
salad on pepper brioche. Tel (617) 425-3240 Tel (617) 351-2500
Popular outdoor seating. Alsatian eatery serving great meals This Newbury Street stalwart
till late. French beers are available has open glass doors and
Post 390 $$ on tap. Menu is replete with clas- outdoor tables in summer. Serves
New American Map 3 C3 sics, from steak-frites to tarte tatin delicious dishes from the French
406 Stuart St, 02118 (upside down tart). Popular in and Italian rivieras, with the occa-
Tel (617) 399-0015 evening for sharing glasses of the sional Indo-Chinese delight.
Handsome urban tavern with cocktail kir and plates of pâté.
two bars and an open kitchen Sorellina $$$
spread over two floors. The Deuxave $$$ Italian Map 3 C3
extensive menu has upscale New American Map 3 A3 1 Huntington Ave, 02116
dishes such as turkey pot pie and 371 Commonwealth Ave, 02115 Tel (617) 412-4600
house-smoked barbecue ribs. Tel (617) 517-5915 The northern Italian menu defines
Elegant spot frequented by a the experience here. The food
Scoozi $$ chic clientele to relax over ranges from the traditional, such
Italian cocktails. The chef blends local, as herb-roasted chicken and plain
580 Commonwealth Ave, 02215 seasonal ingredients to create grilled steaks, to the adventurous
Tel (617) 536-7777 dishes such as pan-seared halibut venison carpaccio with cherries.
Small, casual eatery with a and lobster gnocchi. Impressive designer decor.
huge sidewalk patio. Students
and young international visitors
throng the place for delicious
sandwiches and other light
fare such as tater tots, salads,
and crab cakes.
Stephanie’s on Newbury $$
American Map 3 B2
Tel (617) 236-0990
A local institution known for
filling dinner salads and pasta
dishes. Signature plates include
smoked salmon potato pancakes
and meatloaf layered with cheese
and caramelized onions. Offers
Back Bay’s best outdoor seating. Sophisticated Crystal dining room at L’Espalier, a French restaurant on Boylston Street
Top of the Hub $$$ This sunny café whips up gourmet pub grub attract crowds of local
New American Map 3 B3 coffee drinks, healthy sandwiches, aficionados to this place. The
800 Boylston St, 02199 and tasty snacks. Small, split-level outdoor patio is sought-after in
Tel (617) 536-1775 space. Most patrons buy food to summer. Grab a growler to go.
Perched atop the regal Prudential go, while others eat outside in
Tower, this restaurant boasts the Harvard Square. The Helmand $$
best skyline views in Boston. The Afghan
menu features New England L.A. Burdick Chocolates $ 143 1st St, Cambridge, 02142
seafood and savory aged meats. Café Tel (617) 492-4646
A classy bar and superb service 52 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02138 One of the country’s most
are also a draw. Tel (617) 491-4340 famous Afghan restaurants with
Welcoming café run by a gourmet a stylish dining room. The menu
chocolatier in a small space. features fiery curries and freshly
DK Choice Indulge in exquisitely crafted baked breads. Go for the aushak
Toro $$$ chocolates, designer pastries, and (Afghan stuffed ravioli) and kaddo
Spanish Map 3 C5 the famously thick hot chocolate. (pumpkin topped with ground
1704 Washington St, 02118 meat and yogurt sauce).
Tel (617) 536-4300 Sofra $
The restaurant is named Café Il Casale $$
for the chef-owner’s love of 1 Belmont St, Cambridge, 02138 Italian
Spanish tapas and Japanese Tel (617) 661-3161 50 Leonard St, Belmont, 02462
sushi and sashimi bars. Inviting café-bakery on a busy Tel (617) 209-4942
An assortment of modern corner churning out modern inter- This old fire station houses this
tapas includes house-cured pretations of hummus, tzatziki delightful eatery that serves home-
meat dishes and imported (Greek yogurt), kibbeh (Greek made pasta dishes as well as
items such as cripsy pork croquette), and stuffed flatbreads. wood-grilled meats and fish. Many
belly with snails. A preferred A small seating area is available, dishes are from family recipes.
date spot among the stylish, but many opt to take treats to go.
well-dressed Bostonians. Le’s $$
Border Café $$ Vietnamese
Mexican 36 Dunster St, Cambridge, 02138
Tremont 647 $$$ 32 Church St, Cambridge, 02138 Tel (617) 864-4100
International Map 3 C4 Tel (617) 864-6100 A favored haunt of Harvard
647 Tremont St, 02118 One of Harvard Square’s most students, this congenial restaurant
Tel (617) 266-4600 popular options for inexpensive serves steaming bowls
Trendy eatery in the heart of the eats. Tex-Mex favorites such as of delectable pho. A range of
South End. Menu includes inter- fajitas and nachos as well as spicy other noodle dishes, as well as
national touches as well as smoky Cajun fare. The margaritas are tasty. healthy entrées and rice plates,
meats with bold flavors. Momos are also available.
(Tibetan dumplings) are a signature Bronwyn $$
dish. Weekend pajama brunches German Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers $$
bring diners in their sleepwear. 255 Washington St, Somerville, 02143 Burgers
Tel (617) 776-9900 1246 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge,
UNI Clio $$$ Chic upscale eatery offering an 02138
Japanese Map 3 A3 exploration of authentic German Tel (617) 354-6559
370-A Commonwealth Ave, 02215 sausages and beers. Hip, young Quintessential burger shop
Tel (617) 536-7200 crowds fill the bustling bar space specializing in filling gourmet
Celebrity chef Ken Oringer to hoist steins of imported beers burgers. Some of the sandwiches
creates a contemporary izakaya and snack on hearty, soft pretzels. are humorosly named after a
at the Eliot Hotel, with innovative celebrity or politician. Expect
sashimi and spectacular seafood. Cambridge Brewing Company $$ long waits on weekends.
Small plates inspired by global American
street food are offered late at 1 Kendall Square, Cambridge, 02139 Redbones $$
night on weekends. Tel (617) 494-1994 Barbeque
Award-winning beers brewed 55 Chester St, Somerville, 02144
on site and a menu of standard Tel (617) 628-2200
Farther Afield
Clover Food Lab $
Vegetarian
1326 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge,
02138
Fast-food reinvention emphasizes
seasonal ingredients, with many
vegan options and kid-friendly
choices. French fries with fried
rosemary and BBQ seitan platters
are cult favorites.
Crema Café $
Café
27 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02138
Tel (617) 876-2700 The eclectic interior of Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers
Popular spot just off the lively Veggie Galaxy $$

Davis Square, known for authentic Vegetarian
Southern barbeque. Groups of 450 Massachusetts Ave, Cambridge,
students and families fill the 02139
multiple dining spaces to gorge Tel (617) 497-1513
on platters of expertly prepared Casual, diner-style eatery famous
meats and down-home sides. for its healthy vegetarian fare.
Savory vegetable burgers and
Russell House Tavern $$ fresh, filling salads are the main
New American draws. Friendly servers patrol
14 JFK St, Cambridge, 02138 the bright environs.
Tel (617) 500-3055
Stylish, all-purpose restaurant Blue Ginger $$$
and lounge in the heart of Asian Fusion
Harvard Square. There are two 583 Washington St, Wellesley, 02113
levels for dining and a small alley Tel (781) 283-5790
patio. The varied menu includes Adventurous diners head to
designer cocktails, sandwiches, this restaurant owned and
and more substantial bistro fare. operated by famous chef Ming
Tsai for signature items such A beautifully presented dish at Harvest, a
Tanjore $$ as sake-miso marinated high-end restaurant in Cambridge
Indian Alaskan butterfish and foie
18 Eliot St, Cambridge, 02138 gras-shiitake shumai (foie gras Harvest $$$
Tel (617) 868-1900 dumplings with mushrooms). New American
Friendly, family-owned spot with 44 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02139
a menu featuring dishes ranging Café ArtScience $$$ Tel (617) 868-2255
from mild dosas (crêpe made New American Boston’s pioneer in the creation
from fermented rice or black 650 Kendall St, Cambridge, 02142 of New American cuisine, this
lentil batter) and spicy vindaloos Tel (857) 999-2193 dining room has launched three
(an Indian curry) to tandoori dry Conceived as the intersection of generations of celebrity chefs.
roasts. Authentic desserts, too. art, food, and design, this high- The inventive kitchen continues
tech venue in the heart of the to discover new ways to serve
Temple Bar $$ robotics/biomed research hub largely local fish, veggies, meat
American/Pub emphasizes intense dishes with and dairy. The bar and patio are
1688 Massachusetts Ave, French/Italian origins tempered well-known literary haunts.
Cambridge, 02138 by experimental kitchen
Tel (617) 547-5055 techniques. Josephine Restaurant
Local hangout serving mouth- Parisien $$$
watering burgers, sandwiches, Catalyst $$$ French
and gourmet pizzas. The evening New American 468 Commonwealth Ave, 02215
menu is more elaborate and 300 Technology Square, Tel (617) 375-0699
features dishes such as seared Cambridge, 02139 Feast on classic bistro fare
chicken breast, steak frites, crispy Tel (617) 576-3000 made by a French master
soy roasted lamb and ceviches. Elegant, high-ceilinged dining chef. Try the simple takes on
area offering several seating classics such as steak-frites,
Tory Row $$ options. The modern American beef Bourguignon, and
International fare served here is based on lemon meringue tart.
3 Brattle St, Cambridge, 02142 local, sustainable ingredients.
Tel (617) 876-8769 A lively bar, eclectic background Les Zygomates $$$
This elegant hangout buzzes music, and a busy, open kitchen French
with students, tourists, and make this a popular choice 129 South St, 02111
locals. The eclectic menu offers with local academics and Tel (617) 542-5108
multi-cultural comfort food visitors alike. A relaxed atmosphere, live
such as croque monsieur (grilled jazz, and an extensive selection
ham and cheese sandwich), of wines by the glass com-
baked raclette (a Swiss dish of DK Choice plement the French bistro
melted cheese), and roasted Craigie on Main $$$ fare at this restaurant. The
red pepper hummus. New American menu always has a few
853 Main St, Cambridge, 02138 vegetarian entrées.
Tupelo $$ Tel (617) 497-5511
American/Southern With its focus on the best Oleana $$$
1193 Cambridge St, Cambridge, local, seasonal, and organic Mediterranean
02139 ingredients, this handsome 134 Hampshire St, Cambridge,
Tel (617) 868-0004 Central Square restaurant 02139
This Inman Square spot thrills remains a favorite with the Tel (617) 661-0506
with superb Southern fare city’s gourmands. The à la carte The menu here is inspired by
with a definite accent of the as well as tasting, and bar cuisines from all sides of the
Gulf Coast and New Orleans. menus change daily. Patrons Mediterranean, including
Gumbos include classic chicken can expect intricate prepa- Lebanese, Moroccan, and
and andouille, and an artful rations of exotic ingredients Catalan. Aromatic spices and
vegetarian option playing up the like cockscombs, pork belly, intense sauces characterize
Cajun Trinity. Fried alligator and and monkfish cheeks. most dishes. There is also a
oysters are choice bar bites. nightly vegetarian tasting menu.
Cafés and Bars 11:30am–3:30pm Mon–Sat.

More recently, tea has found
The social fabric of Boston is held together through its aficionados among the
abundance of places to meet with friends and while collegeaged crowd, and
away the hours. With a rich mix of students, work ing folk, a number of tea houses
designed for the younger
and executives, the city provides a selection of cafés and and more budgetconscious
bars that cater to all tastes, and to people who keep all flourish in the city, especially
hours. There are places where you can find a pick-me-up, near college campuses and
rest your feet, and meet local people. A further selection on Newbury Street. In the heart
of bars is listed on pp162–3. of Harvard Square, Tealuxe lets
customers peruse an impressive
catalog of hundreds of teas
Cafés warming soups, as well as from around the world. Fine
Cafés tend to cluster in fine tarts, cakes, cookies, Asian teas, with a touch of
a few areas of the city, most and breakfast breads. tranquility and a hint of enlight
notably Harvard Square and Cafés cluster around the enment, are the specialty at
its environs, the South End, the main thoroughfares of the Dado Tea, which is situated
North End, and Beacon Hill. North End, where many both in and east of Harvard
Crema Café, one of Harvard local restaurants do not Square in Cambridge.
Square’s long line of cafés, even bother to serve coffee
serves both hot and iced tea, or dessert because the cafés
along with delicious pastries in this lively Italian neighbor Ice Cream Parlors
and sandwiches. The oldest hood do it so much better – Bostonians eat more ice cream,
of the square’s coffee culture espresso or cappuccino with per person, year round, than
joints, the hip Café Pamplona, tiramisu or cannoli are a must. just about anyone else in
dates back to the Beatnik days. Caffè Vittoria, decorated in America. They are highly
For an especially genteel marble and chrome, has a discerning customers, and
treat, make your way to wide array of pastries and fiercely loyal to their favorite
L.A. Burdick Chocolates and liqueurs, and its own cigar parlor. Many restaurants make
order a sampler plate of their parlor. Caffè Pompei is a more a point of serving one of the
innovative chocolates or one chaotic place, which features locally made ice creams with
of their superb buttery fruit murals of its doomed their dessert menus. When
tarts. They also have some namesake crowding the walls. ordering ice cream, you can
fine teas, including herbals. While many like Mike’s Pastry get it served in a dish with a
There are two branches for their cannoli, it is said spoon, or in a cone to lick. You
of the 1369 Coffeehouse, that the best are found usually get a choice of wafer
which are spacious, upbeat alongside the nougat at cone (light, crispy, slightly
and frequented by a clientele Maria’s Pastry Shop, which bland) or a sugar cone (thin,
of all ages, who come mainly sadly does not have seating. crisp, sweet cookie wafer).
for the excellent cookie bars. Lulu’s Sweet Shop is known Some may decide to order one
The South End’s secluded for its tempting variety of cup of the enormous waffle cones,
cafés are home to a thriving cakes. On Beacon Hill, Tatte has which is really just an over
café society. Many are a range of exquisite gourmet grown sugar cone custom
popular with the vibrant gay coffee and inviting pastries. made for the truly indulgent.
community (see p163) that Parlors are open most of the
has made its home in this day and late into the evening.
neighborhood, but also Tea Rooms In central Boston the best ice
happily welcome all visitors, A couple of grand hotels creams can be hard to find, but
regardless of sexual preference. have preserved a genteel Newbury Street (see p95) has
Berkeley Perk Cafe is colorful tradition of offering afternoon some of the most popular
and spacious, with a wide tea: Bristol Lounge at the Four options. Emack & Bolio’s is a
selection of juices, quality Seasons Hotel serves a lovely longtime favorite for its sinful
sodas, and sweet treats. Pastry tea (especially enjoyable if you sundaes featuring homemade
chef Joanne Chang’s first Flour are seated by the fireplace), fudge. The New England ice
Bakery & Café, in the South while on weekends the Taj cream giant Ben and Jerry’s
End, met with such over Boston continues the formal has several parlors featuring
whelming neighborhood afternoon tea tradition all their flavors.
support that she opened established by its predecessor If possible, the icecream
branches at additional the RitzCarlton, complete talent in Cambridge is even
locations in Cambridge. with a full Old World service. greater than in Boston. Adult
Each location is a surefire In the heart of the Boston lovers of gourmet ice cream
venue for artisanal breads, Public Library, the Courtyard swear by the Burnt Caramel and
generous sandwiches, and Restaurant serves classic tea Earl Grey flavors at Toscanini’s,
in Central Square With the features specialty flavors such For good, down-to-earth bars,
demise of Herrell’s, Lizzy’s Ice as peanut sunrise, as well as you cannot go wrong with the
Cream has emerged as the a chance to work off some youthful Shay’s Pub and Wine
new standard bearer of Harvard calories on their candlepin Bar, The Sevens, the cheap and
Square. Try the Charles River bowling lanes. cheerful Beacon Hill Pub, the
Crunch (dark chocolate ice well-heeled 21st Amendment,
cream with almond toffee or the kitschy lounge paradise
nuggets). Competition for most Bars of The Good Life. Parker’s Bar
inventive flavors is stiff. For The legal drinking age in at the Omni Parker House
example, Christina’s Homemade Boston is 21, and you may Hotel has the atmosphere
Ice Cream in Inman Square be asked to show proof of of a gentleman’s club, while
makes the best green tea ice identification (see p174). around the city are dotted a
cream in the city, as well as Boston has scores of bars number of good wine bars,
a wide range of other flavors, which offer live music and other notably Les Zygomates and
ranging from the sublime to types of entertainment (see also Troquet. Jacob Wirth (see p87),
the simply gooey. pp162–3). Those listed here are a which is also a restaurant,
A little farther afield, Ron’s good place to relax and simply is situated in the Theater
Gourmet Ice Cream and have a drink, though some of District and has good beer
Twentieth Century Bowl them can still be quite lively. and a lively ambience.
DIRECTORY
Cafés L.A. Burdick Taj Boston Bars
Chocolates 15 Arlington St.
1369 Coffeehouse 52 Brattle St., Cambridge. Map 4 D2. 21st Amendment
1369 Cambridge St., Tel (617) 491-4340. Tel (617) 536-5700. 150 Bowdoin St.
Cambridge. Map 1 C3.
Lulu’s Sweet Shop Tealuxe
Tel (617) 576-1369. Tel (617) 227-7100.
57 Salem St. Brattle St., Cambridge.
757 Massachusetts Ave.
Map 2 D2. Tel (617) 441-0077. Beacon Hill Pub
Tel (617) 576-4600.
149 Charles St.
Tel (617) 742-0070.
Berkeley Perk Cafe Ice Cream Parlors Map 1 B3.
69 Berkeley St. Maria’s Pastry Shop Tel (617) 625-7100.
46 Cross St. Ben and Jerry’s
Map 4 D3.
Map 2 D3. 174 Newbury St. The Good Life
Tel (617) 426-7375.
Tel (617) 523-1196. Map 3 B2. 28 Kingston St.
Café Pamplona Tel (617) 536-5456. Map 2 D5.
12 Bow St., Cambridge. Mike’s Pastry 20 Park Plaza. Tel (617) 451-2622.
Tel (617) 492-0352. 300 Hanover St. Map 4 D2.
Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 426-0890. Jacob Wirth
Caffè Pompei Tel (617) 742-3050. 31–37 Stuart St.
36 John F. Kennedy St.,
278 Hanover St. Map 4 E2.
Tatte Cambridge.
Map 2 E2. Tel (617) 338-8586.
70 Charles St. Tel (617) 864-2828.
Tel (617) 227-1562.
Map 1 B2. Christina’s Homemade Les Zygomates
Caffè Vittoria Tel (617) 523-9200. Ice Cream 129 South St.
290–296 Hanover St. 1255 Cambridge St. Map 4 F2.
Map 2 E2. Tea Rooms Tel (617) 492-7021. Tel (617) 542-5108.
Tel (617) 227-7606.
Bristol Lounge Emack & Bolio’s Parker’s Bar
Crema Café 200 Boylston St. 290 Newbury St. 60 School St.
27 Brattle St., Cambridge. Map 4 D2. Map 3 B2. Map 2 D4.
Tel (617) 876-2700. Tel (617) 338-4400. Tel (617) 536-7127. Tel (617) 227-8600.
Flour Bakery & Café Courtyard Lizzy’s Ice Cream The Sevens
1595 Washington St. Restaurant 29 Church St., Cambridge. 77 Charles St. Map 1 B3.
Map 3 C5. Boston Public Library, Tel (617) 354-2911. Tel (617) 523-9074.
Tel (617) 267-4300. 700 Boylston St.
Ron’s Gourmet Ice Shay’s Pub and
12 Farnsworth St. Map 3 C2.
Cream and Twentieth Wine Bar
Map 2 E5. Tel (617) 859-2251.
Century Bowl 58 John F. Kennedy St.,
Tel (617) 338-4333.
Dado Tea 1231 Hyde Park Ave., Cambridge.
190 Massachusetts Ave.,
955 Massachusetts Ave., Hyde Park, MA 02136. Tel (617) 864-9161.
Cambridge.
Cambridge. Tel (617) 364-5274.
Tel (617) 225-2525. Troquet
131 Clarendon St. Tel (617) 497-9061. Toscanini’s 140 Boylston St.
Map 3 C3. 50 Church St., Cambridge. 899 Main St., Cambridge. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 437-7700. Tel (617) 547-0950. Tel (617) 491-5877. Tel (617) 695-9463.
SHOPPING IN BOSTON
Shopping in Boston has evolved furnishings or ethnic treasures, to the
dramatically in recent years. Long known varied art and crafts galleries, Boston caters
as an excellent center for antiques, books, to every shopping need. Whether you are
and quality clothing, the city’s shopping looking for the latest fashion accessory,
options now cover a much broader an unusual antique, or a special souvenir,
spectrum, influenced both by its booming choices abound to accommodate every
economy and its large, international sense of style and budget. Boston is no
student population. From the fashionable longer simply traditional, and now holds
boutiques of Newbury Street, to the many its own in providing a vibrant, eclectic
stores selling cosmopolitan home and world-class shopping experience.
Copley Place, with its elegant

restaurants, and more than 75
shops over two levels, is based
around a dazzling 60ft (18m)
atrium and waterfall. Across
a pedestrian overpass, Shops
at Prudential Center encom
passes Saks Fifth Avenue
department store, a food court,
and many smaller specialty
shops. The Heritage on the
Garden, a collection of upscale
boutiques and luxury retailers,
looks out over Boston’s Public
Garden, and features the
boutiques of top European
Large glass atrium of the busy Prudential Center shopping mall designers, fine jewelers, and
stores selling other luxury
Sales throughout the week. Weekday goods. Outside the center of
There are two major sale seasons mornings are the best times to town, across the Charles River,
in Boston: July, when summer shop. Saturdays, lunch hours, CambridgeSide Galleria has
clothes go on sale to make room and evenings can be very busy. over 100 shops and a pondside
for fall fashions, and January, food court. For lastminute
when any winter clothing and purchases, Boston America, at
merchandise is cleared after the Shopping Malls Logan Airport (Terminal B), has
holidays. Most stores also have Shopping malls – clusters of shops, restaurants, banking, and
a sale section or clearance rack shops, restaurants, and food Internet access.
throughout the year. courts all within one large and
open complex – have become
top destinations for shopping, Department Stores
Payment and Taxes offering variety, dining, and There are several major
Major credit cards and traveler’s entertainment. With long winters department stores in Boston
checks with identification are and a fair share of bad weather, offering a large and varied
accepted at most stores. There New Englanders flock to malls selection of clothing, acces
is a tax of 6.25 per cent on all to shop, eat, and, in the case of sories, cosmetics, housewares,
purchases except groceries and teenagers, simply hang out. and gifts. Some also have
clothing, although any item of restaurants and
clothing over $175 will be taxed. beauty salons, and
provide a variety
of personal shop
Opening Hours ping services. At
Most stores open at 10am and Downtown Crossing
close at 6pm from Monday to (see p84), a bustling
Saturday, and from noon to 5 or shopping district
6pm on Sunday. Many stores between Boston
stay open later on Thursday Common and the
nights, and most department Financial District, the
stores stay open until 7:30 or 8pm Farm produce on display on Charles Street primary department
SHOPPING IN BOSTON  153
store is Macy’s, a large house – or mansion. Other

outpost of the legendary Copley Place merchants
New York emporium, which include Jimmy Choo,
offers an impressive array of Christian Dior, Louis
fashions, cosmetics, house- Vuitton, and Armani
wares, and furnishings. Exchange, as well as
Heading uptown, through Boston’s outpost of
Boston Common and Public the popular Manhattan
Garden to Boylston Street, you trendsetter, Barney’s.
can spot the Prudential Tower,
centerpiece of a once non-
descript but now revitalized Discount and
complex of shops, offices, and Outlet Stores
restaurants. This includes the Dedicated bargain hunters
venerable and elegant Saks may want to consider
Fifth Avenue, which caters to making a day trip to one
its upscale clientele with of New England’s famed Boutiques of genteel Newbury Street
renowned service, a luxurious outlet centers, where many
ambiance, and strikingly top designers and major here sell designer clothing,
stylish displays. For a similarly brand manufacturers offer housewares, and accessories
comprehensive and upscale last-season and overstocked from many of the leading
department store, head around clothing and goods at big manufacturers.
the corner to Lord & Taylor, discounts. Generally sold at 20 Kittery, 50 miles (80 km)
which has been filling closets to 30 per cent less than their north of Boston, is an even
with designer clothes since regular retail prices, some items larger outlet destination, with
1826. For the ultimate high can be found reduced by as more than 125 shops selling
fashion, high profile shopping much as 75 per cent. Closest to everything from footwear and
experience, stop by Neiman downtown Boston, Assembly designer clothes, to sports
Marcus, which specializes in Row in Somerville has more equipment, perfume, books,
haute couture, precious than 30 outlet shops, china, glass, and gifts. There are
jewelry, furs, and gifts. including Chico’s, also numerous restaurants.
The store is well known Kenneth Cole, and Freeport, Maine, is one of the
for its Christmas catalog, Clarks. This develop- largest and most famous outlet
with presents that have ment also has several centers, being home to the
included authentic popular eateries and a renowned outdoor equipment
Egyptian mummies, cinema. Wrentham specialist L.L. Bean. Roughly
vintage airplanes, a pair Village Premium a two hour drive from Boston,
of two-million-dollar Outlets are about it is only worth the journey for
diamonds, and robots Brattle Book 40 miles (65 km) south the dedicated shopper, or for
to help out around the Shop’s sign of Boston. The stores those already visiting Maine.
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Heritage on Macy’s Freeport Outlets
the Garden 450 Washington St. Freeport, Maine.
Boston America 300 Boylston St. Map 4 F1. Tel (207) 865-1212.
Terminal B, Logan Map 4 D2. or (800) 865-1994.
Tel (617) 357-3000.
International Airport, Tel (617) 426-9500. ∑ freeportusa.com
East Boston. Neiman Marcus
∑ theheritageonthe
∑ massport.com 5 Copley Place, 100 Kittery Outlets
garden.com Route 1, Kittery, Maine.
Huntington Ave. Map 3 C3.
CambridgeSide Shops at Prudential Tel (888) 548-8379.
Tel (617) 536-3660.
Galleria Center ∑ thekitteryoutlets.com
100 Cambridgeside Pl., 800 Boylston St. Saks Fifth Avenue
L.L. Bean
Cambridge. Map 3 B3. Prudential Center. Map 3
95 Main St., Freeport,
Tel (617) 621-8666. Tel (800) 746-7778. B3. Tel (617) 262-8500.
Maine. Tel (877) 755-2326.
∑ cambridgeside ∑ prudentialcenter.com ∑ llbean.com
galleria.com Discount and
Department Outlet Stores Wrentham Village
Copley Place Premium Outlets
Stores
100 Huntington Ave. Assembly Row 1 Premium Outlets Blvd,
Map 3 C3. Lord & Taylor 340 Canal St., Somerville. Wrentham.
Tel (617) 262-6600. 760 Boylston St. Map 3 B2. Tel (617) 440-5565. Tel (508) 384-0600.
∑ simon.com Tel (617) 262-6000. ∑ assemblyrow.com ∑ premiumoutlets.com
Fashion stocks an eclectic mix of exotic

and whimsical clothing and
From chain stores stocked with popular brand labels to accessories from around
specialists selling vintage clothing, Boston offers choices the world.
in every area of fashion. Well-heeled shoppers frequent In Harvard Square, Oona’s
has been selling vintage
high-fashion boutiques, students flock to vintage emporiums, clothing for 35 years, while
and businessmen visit both traditional outlets and the many Mint Julep offers stylish
fashionable men’s outfitters. In this stylish, international city, clothing from U.S. and inter—
many stores feature fine clothes from Italy, France, England, national designers. Clothware
and Japan, along with the more prevalent fashions from features natural-fiber clothes
from local designers, and
top American designers.
Settebello carries elegant
European apparel and
Mixed Fashion at affordable prices, has shops accessories.
Many stores in Boston both downtown and in Back
offer quality clothing for both Bay. The Back Bay store is
men and women. In Copley particularly known for its large
Place, Barney’s New York, a selection of accessories. For Men’s Fashion
branch of the world-famous clothing more suited to the Gentlemen seeking a quint-
Manhattan fashion icon, offers great outdoors, visit Eastern essential New England look
an extensive range of cutting- Mountain Sports, which sells a need go no farther than Brooks
edge designer labels. range of no-nonsense sporting Brothers on Newbury Street,
Nearby on Newbury Street, gear, or Patagonia, a mecca for longtime purveyors of tradi-
Giorgio Armani, Riccardi, and serious climbers, skiers, and tional, high-quality men’s
Burberry all cater to the well- sailors, which also carries and boys’ wear.
heeled, who like to browse sophisticated, high-tech One of America’s foremost
through their outrageously sporting equipment. fashion house, Polo/Ralph
expensive clothing and Visitors don’t mind going a Lauren offers top-quality and
accessories. Alan Bilzerian little out of the way for huge highly priced sporting and
attracts celebrities in search of discounts (up to 70 per cent) formal attire, while Jos. A.
both his own label and the on athletic and street shoes Bank Clothiers sells private
latest avant-garde looks from and apparel at the New Balance label merchandise as well
Europe and Japan. The U.K.- Factory Outlet store. The as most major brands at
based AllSaints Spitalfields locally based athletic-shoe discounted prices.
combines a trendy, urban look company stocks virtually every Academics and college
(including motorcycle jackets) size – short and narrow to students alike head to
with the trappings of luxury, long and wide. Cambridge, where the ven-
while Canadian company Kit erable Andover Shop and
and Ace designs clothing that J. Press provide a selection
is comfortable, fashionable, Women’s Fashion of Ivy-League essentials of
loose and easy to wear. Made No woman need leave Boston impeccable quality.
from easy-care, high-tech empty-handed, whether her
fabrics usually reserved for taste is for the haute couture
athletic gear, the streetwear of Chanel or the earthy ethnic Discount and
is ideal for travelers. In clothing at Nomad. Newbury Vintage Clothes
Cambridge, American Apparel Street is filled with sumptuous, Those who equate Downtown
features casual sports-wear high-fashion boutiques, Crossing with bargain hunting
for men and women. Urban including Kate Spade, Betsy and lament the closing of the
Outfitters offers an eclectic Jenney, and Max Mara, Italy’s legendary Boston bargain
collection of clothing and largest and most luxurious emporium Filene’s Basement
accoutrements for the young ready-to-wear manufacturer should pay a visit to the two
and trendy, and stocks Kikit, for women. Boston was discount superstores in the area.
Girbaud, and Esprit. America’s instrumental in introducing Prominent discount chains
favorite chain, Gap, has simple the colorful and graphic prints Marshalls, and T.J. Maxx sell
styles which remain stylish of Marimekko to the U.S. in famous designer brands for less,
enough for movie stars, yet the 1960s, and they are now and also offer superb bargains
affordable for the masses. enjoying a resurgence of on clothing, shoes, housewares,
Banana Republic is ideal for popularity. On Boylston Street, and accessories. Both stores are
those after a sleeker more Ann Taylor is undoubtedly the conveniently located in the
modern look. first choice for refined, modern same building.
The Swedish retailer H&M, career clothes, while Talbots, a Bargain-conscious shoppers
which stocks trend-setting Boston institution, features and lovers of vintage apparel
fashion for adults and children enduring classics. Anthropologie will enjoy the selection of new
and used goods at the Garment Shoes and Accessories Stylish Spanish shoes and
District in Cambridge. Also in Many stores in Boston bags are the specialty at Stuart
Cambridge, Keezer’s Classic specialize in accessories and Weitzman at Copley Place,
Clothing has provided gener- footware. Helen’s Leather on while the adventurous will find
ations of Harvard students with Charles Street is well known more fashionable and unusual
everything from used tuxedos for leather jackets, briefcases, shoes at The Tannery in
to sports jackets and loafers. purses, shoes, and Birkenstock Cambridge. For sports gear, the
Second Time Around, with sandals, as well as its huge large and opulent Niketown
consignment shops in both selection of Western boots. on Newbury Street shows
Cambridge and Boston, offers At Downtown Crossing, Foot video re-runs of sports events
a select array of top-quality, Paths carries a range of shoes while shoppers peruse the
gently worn contemporary from Timberland, Kenneth latest designs in athletic
clothing for women. Cole, Rockport, and others. clothing and footwear.
DIRECTORY
Mixed Fashion New Balance Factory Mint Julep Keezer’s Classic
Outlet 6 Church St., Cambridge. Clothing
Alan Bilzerian 173 Market St., Brighton. Tel (617) 576-6468.
34 Newbury St. 140 River St., Cambridge.
Tel (617) 779-7429. Nomad
Map 4 D2. Tel (617) 547-2455.
Tel (617) 536-1001. Patagonia 1741 Massachusetts Ave.,
Cambridge. Marshalls
346 Newbury St.
AllSaints Spitalfields Tel (617) 497-6677. 350 Washington St.
Map 3 A3.
122 Newbury St. Map 4 F1.
Tel (617) 424-1776. Oona’s
Map 3 C2.
1210 Massachusetts Ave., Tel (617) 338-6205.
Tel (617) 517-0894. Riccardi
Cambridge.
American Apparel 116 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Tel (617) 491-2654. Second Time Around
47 Brattle St., Cambridge. Tel (617) 266-3158. 176 Newbury St.
Settebello
Tel (617) 661-2770. Urban Outfitters Map 3 B2.
52 Brattle St., Cambridge.
361 Newbury St. Map 3 A3. Tel (617) 864-2440. Tel (617) 247-3504.
Banana Republic
28 Newbury St. Tel (617) 236-0088.
Talbots T.J. Maxx
Map 4 D2. 500 Boylston St. Map 3 C2. 350 Washington St.
Tel (617) 267-3933.
Women’s Fashion
Tel (617) 262-2981. Map 4 F1.
Barney’s New York Ann Taylor Tel (617) 695-2424.
Copley Place. Map 3 C3. 800 Boylston St. Map 3 B3. Men’s Fashion
Tel (617) 385-3300. Tel (617) 421-9097. Andover Shop Shoes and
Burberry Anthropologie 22 Holyoke St., Accessories
2 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. 203 Newbury St. Map 3 B2. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 236-1000. Tel (617) 262-0545. Tel (617) 876-4900. Foot Paths
Brooks Brothers 489 Washington St.
Eastern Mountain Betsy Jenney
46 Newbury St. Map 4 D2. Map 4 F1.
Sports 114 Newbury St. Map 3 C2.
Tel (617) 267-2600. Tel (617) 338-6008.
1 Brattle Sq., Cambridge. Tel (617) 536-2610.
Tel (617) 864-2061. Jos. A. Bank Clothiers Helen’s Leather
Chanel 399 Boylston St. Map 4 D2.
Gap 6 Newbury St. Map 4 D2. 110 Charles St.
Tel (617) 536-5050.
Copley Place. Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 859-0055. Map 1 B3.
Tel (617) 247-1754. J. Press
Clothware Tel (617) 742-2077.
82 Mount Auburn St.,
Giorgio Armani 1773 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge. Niketown
22 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge. Tel (617) 547-9886.
Tel (617) 267-3200. 200 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 661-6441.
Polo/Ralph Lauren Map 3 B2.
H&M Kate Spade 93/95 Newbury St. Tel (617) 267-3400.
350 Washington St. 117 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Map 3 C2.
Map 4 F1. Tel (617) 262-2632. Tel (617) 424-1124. Stuart Weitzman
Tel (617) 482-7081. Copley Place.
100 Newbury St. Map 3 Marimekko Discount and Map 3 C3.
C2. Tel (617) 859-3192. 140 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Vintage Clothes
Tel (617) 247-2500. Tel (617) 266-8699.
Kit and Ace Garment District
208 Newbury St. Max Mara 200 Broadway, The Tannery
Map 3 B2. 69 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge. 39 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Tel (844) 548-6223. Tel (617) 267-9775. Tel (617) 876-5230. Tel (617) 491-1811.
Antiques, Fine Crafts, and Gifts nautical antiques to rare

books, maps, jewelry, and
Visitors hoping to take home a special memento will find an rugs. Fine antiques and jewelry
enormous number of antique, craft, and gift stores in Boston. featuring Victorian and Art
From the huge antique markets and cooperatives, to specialty Nouveau designs are
beautifully displayed
shops selling everything from rugs to rare books, there are and described by the
abundant opportunities to indulge a passion for the past. Those knowledgeable staff at
favoring more contemporary objets d’art will find crafts guilds, Small Pleasures. Vintage
galleries, and gift shops selling unique glassware, ceramics, watches from Rolex, Cartier,
textiles, jewelry, and much more produced by New England Vacheron, Constantia, and
others are a specialty at
artisans, as well as items from every corner of the world.
Paul A. Duggan Co.; while
The Bromfield Pen Shop
Antiques Antiques excels at Art Deco has been a purveyor of
Charles Street is Boston’s furniture, much of it purchased thousands of new, antique,
antiques Mecca, with more in France. and limitededition pens for
antique stores than any other over 50 years. For nautical
part of town. The neighbor antiques, including model
hood is extremely affluent Antique Markets ships and marine paintings,
with many exclusive and and Cooperatives Lannan Ship Model Gallery
expensive stores, though the If browsing through boasts an extensive and high
occasional bargain may be mountainous inventories quality inventory. Antique
found in some of the larger with the broadest range of Asian furniture, as well as
stores. Upstairs Downstairs quality, price, and stock is antique and modern hand
sells “affordable antiques,” and your idea of heaven, then woven rugs and carpets from
has four rooms full of furniture, there are several multidealer the Asian steppes to northern
lamps, prints, and a large antiques emporiums worth India and Nepal, are among
selection of smaller items. exploring. On Charles Street, the specialties of Mohr &
A prime source of antique Boston Arts & Antiques has McPherson, which maintains
pine and painted furniture, everything from quilts, a large showroom in Back Bay.
Danish Country carries candlesticks, and wicker Bibliophiles will also find an
antique armoires and other furniture to chandeliers and extraordinary range of stores in
furniture from Scandinavia, furniture. Open Sundays, Boston. In business since 1825,
as well as Royal Copenhagen SOWA Vintage Market Brattle Book Shop (see p85) is
china and tall case clocks. The features nearly three dozen the oldest and best known,
shop also carries Chinese dealers in an old brick with a huge selection of used,
lacquered antique furniture warehouse. Set decorators outofprint and rare books,
that blends well with the love to scout here for film magazines, and vintage
Scandinavian pieces. shoots. The adjoining flea photographs. Rare books in
Antique jewelry from market and farmers’ market the fine arts are the focus of
around the world is a specialty add to the fun. In Cambridge, Ars Libri Ltd., while Eugene
at Marika’s Antiques Shop, Cambridge Antique Market Galleries features antiquarian
along with paintings, glass, encompasses more than maps, prints, and etchings, in
porcelain, and silver. True to 100 dealers, offering estate addition to its comprehensive
its name, Devonia Antiques antiques, collectibles, furniture, selection of books. Fans of
for the Table has fine china, jewelry, and a vast selection graphic novels, comic books,
glassware, and even antique of many other items. Japanese and Korean manga,
linens for creating the period If you have scoured and all sorts of visual story
dining atmosphere. Twentieth Charles Street, scrutinized telling flock to Million Year
Century Ltd. excels particularly the cooperatives and still Picnic to get their fix of
in glittery costume jewelry not found what you are current titles. A few toys
from top designers. They also looking for, try Skinner Inc. in and Tshirts round out the
offer pieces in sterling silver. Boston, which holds auctions collection, but comics are
In Cambridge, Reside throughout the year featuring the main draw. Also in
specializes in mid20thcentury furniture and fine arts, as well Cambridge, Schoenhof’s
modern furniture and acces as ethnic art and books. Foreign Books and Grolier
sories, with ethnic pillows and Poetry Book Shop cater
weavings. For an eclectic mix to those seeking specialty
of antiques both fine and Specialty Dealers volumes. The Bryn Mawr
funky from the 19th century Collectors in pursuit of Bookstore stocks used
to the 1950s, head to Easy more specific pieces books and some rare volumes
Chairs. In neighboring Brook will find shops in Boston that covering every conceivable
line, A Room with a Vieux specialize in everything from subject.
Fine Crafts Cooperative, owned and run by you will not find anywhere else.
Collectors with a more over 250 artists, offers an eclectic On Newbury Street browse the
contemporary bent will find collection of items, ranging from International Poster Gallery, for
several distinguished galleries hand-painted silk jackets to original, vintage posters from
and shops featuring a wide ornaments and larger items. The the 19th and 20th centuries. In
variety of American crafts by both Mudflat Gallery showcases Cambridge, Joie de Vivre has a
local and nationally recognized work in clay by nearly 50 fantastic collection of toys, clocks,
artists. Mobilia in Cambridge members and students. jewelry, jack-in-the-boxes, and
has a national reputation for its much more beside. Next door,
jewelry, ceramics, and other Paper Source carries a selection
objects. The Society of Arts and Gifts of fine handmade papers, gift
Crafts, established in 1897, has In addition to the plethora of wrap, rubber stamps, and other
a shop and gallery, with exhibits souvenir shops that threaten to materials for creative indulgence.
from the 350 artists it represents. drown tourists in tasteless, pre- For quirky, one-of-a-kind trinkets
Works are largely in wood, fiber, dictable merchandise, Boston has and functional gifts, check out
metal, glass, and mixed media. numerous shops specializing in the Beacon Hill and Harvard
The Cambridge Artists’ original and distinctive gifts that Square outlets of Black Ink.
DIRECTORY
Antiques Antiques Markets Eugene Galleries Fine Crafts
and Cooperatives 76 Charles St.
A Room with a Cambridge Artists’
Map 1 B4.
Boston Arts Cooperative
Vieux Antiques Tel (617) 227-3062.
& Antiques 59a Church St.,
361 Boylston St., Brookline. Cambridge. Tel (617) 868-
119 Charles St. Grolier Poetry
Tel (617) 277-2700. 4434.
Map 1 B3. Book Shop
Danish Country Tel (617) 227-9810. Mobilia
6 Plympton St.,
138 Charles St. Map 1 B3. Cambridge Cambridge. 358 Huron Ave.,
Tel (617) 227-1804. Antique Market Cambridge.
Tel (617) 547-4648.
201 Msgr. O’Brien Hwy, Tel (617) 876-2109.
Devonia Antiques Cambridge. Lannan Ship
Mudflat Gallery
for the Table Tel (617) 868-9655. Model Gallery Porter Square Shopping
15 Charles St. 99 High St. Center, 1–37 White St.,
Skinner Inc.
Map 1 B4. Map 2 D5. Cambridge.
63 Park Plaza.
Tel (617) 765-2396. Tel (617) 451-2650. Tel (617) 491-7976.
Map 1 C4.
Tel (617) 350-5400. Million Year Picnic Society of Arts
Easy Chairs
and Crafts
375 Huron Ave., SOWA Vintage 99 Mt. Auburn St.,
175 Newbury St. Map 3 B2.
Cambridge. Market Cambridge.
Tel (617) 266-1810.
460c Harrison Ave. Tel (617) 492-6763.
Tel (617) 491-2131.
Map 3 E4. Gifts
Mohr & McPherson
Marika’s Antiques
Shop
Specialty Dealers 460 Harrison Ave. Black Ink
Map 3 E4. 101 Charles St. Map 1 B3.
130 Charles St. Map 1 B3. Ars Libri Ltd. Tel (866) 497-1221.
Tel (617) 210-4900.
Tel (617) 523-4520. 500 Harrison Ave. 5 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Map 4 E4. Paul A. Duggan Co. Tel (866) 497-1221.
Reside Tel (617) 357-5212. 333 Washington St.,
266 Concord Ave., International Poster
Brattle Book Shop Suite 435.
Cambridge. Gallery
9 West St. Map 1 C4. 205 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 547-2929. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 742-0221. Map 3 B2.
Twentieth Tel (617) 542-0210. Tel (617) 375-0076.
Schoenhof’s
Century Ltd. The Bromfield Foreign Books Joie de Vivre
73 Charles St. Map 1 B4. Pen Shop 1792 Massachusetts Ave.,
76A Mt. Auburn St.,
5 Bromfield St. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 742-1031. Cambridge.
Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 864-8188.
Upstairs Downstairs Tel (617) 482-9053. Tel (617) 547-8855.
Paper Source
93 Charles St. Bryn Mawr Bookstore Small Pleasures 1810 Massachusetts Ave.,
Map 1 B4. 373 Huron Ave., Cambridge. 142 Newbury St. Map 3 C2. Cambridge.
Tel (617) 367-1950. Tel (617) 661-1770. Tel (617) 267-7371. Tel (617) 497-1077.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
BOSTON
From avant-garde performance art to serious is home of the renowned Boston Symphony
drama, popular dance music to live classical Orchestra. Boston is also well acquainted
performances, Boston offers an outstanding with jazz, folk music, and blues as well as
array of entertainment options, with some- being a center for more contemporary music,
thing to appeal to every taste: the Theater played in big city nightclubs. In summer,
District offers many excellent plays and entertainment often heads outdoors, with
musicals, the Wang Theatre hosts many many open-air plays and concerts, such as
touring productions, and Symphony Hall the famous Boston Pops at the Hatch Shell.
Practical Information get tickets in person at theater

The best sources for information box offices, or use one of the
on current films, concerts, ticket agencies in Boston. For
theater, dance, and exhibitions advance tickets these are
include the Thursday Ticketmaster and
and Friday Arts sec- Live Nation. Tickets
tion of The Boston can be purchased
Globe. Even more from both of these
up-to-date listings agencies over the
can be found online telephone, in person,
at the following sites: or online. Half-price
www.bostonusa.com; tickets to most
The Boston Globe noncommercial arts Tchaikovsky’s Nutcracker, danced by the
(www.bostonglobe. Boston entertainment events as well as to Boston Ballet (see p160)
com); Improper listings magazines some commercial
Bostonian (www. productions are Districts and Venues
improper.com); Boston Magazine available from 11am on the Musicals, plays, comedies, and
(www.bostonmagazine.com). day of the per formance at dance are generally performed
BosTix booths. Purchases at venues in the Theater District,
must be made in person although larger noncommercial
Booking Tickets and only cash is accepted. theater companies are distrib-
Tickets to popular musicals, BosTix also sells advance full- uted throughout the region,
theatrical productions, and price tickets. Special Boston many being associated with
touring shows often sell out enter tainment discount colleges and universities.
far in advance, although the- vouchers, available from hotel The area around the inter-
aters sometimes have a few lobbies and tourist offices, section of Massachusetts and
returns or restricted-view may also give a saving on Huntington Avenues hosts a
tickets available. You can either some shows. concentration of outstanding
concert venues, including
Symphony Hall, Berklee
Performance Center at Berklee
College of Music, and Jordan
Hall at the New England
Conservatory of Music.
Many nightclub and dance
venues are on Lansdowne and
other streets by Fenway Park and
around Boylston Place in the
Theater District. The busiest areas
for bars and small clubs offering
live jazz and rock music are
Central and Harvard Squares
in Cambridge, Davis Square in
Somerville, and Allston. The
principal gay scene in Boston
is found in the South End, with
many of the older bars and clubs
Boston’s Symphony Orchestra performing at Symphony Hall (see p160) in neighboring Bay Village.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B O S TO N  159
Open-Air and
Free Entertainment
Boston’s best free outdoor summer
entertainment is found at the
Hatch Shell (see p94) on the Charles
River Esplanade. The Boston Pops
(see p160) performs here frequently
during the week around July 4,
and all through July and August
jazz, pop, rock, and classical music
is played. On Friday evenings from
late June to the week before Labor Free open-air music concert outside City Hall
Day, the Hatch Shell also shows
free big-screen family films. courtyard. Most of the annual offers a program of free live
Music is also performed in the concerts and recitals of the New music during summer months,
summer months at the Blue England Conservatory of Music while the Boston Harbor Hotel
Hills Bank Pavilion on the are free, although some require sponsors free weeknight
waterfront, which holds live jazz, advance reservations. Summer in the City films and
pop, and country music concerts. Other open-air entertainment concerts at Rowes Wharf.
City Hall Plaza and Copley Plaza includes a series of free plays Details of all free entertain-
have free concerts at lunchtimes staged on Boston Common by the ment happening in the city are
and in the evenings, and the Commonwealth Shakespeare listed in the Thursday and Friday
Museum of Fine Arts, Boston Company in July and August. editions of The Boston Globe.
(see pp106–9) operates a summer An area that has more unusual
musical concert series in its open-air entertainment is
Harvard Square, famous for Disabled Access
its nightly and weekend Many entertainment venues in
scene of street performers. Boston are wheelchair acces-
Many recording artists paid sible. VSA (Very Special Arts)
their dues here, and other Massachusetts offers a full
hopefuls still flock to the Boston arts access guide. Some
square in the hope of places, such as Jordan Hall, the
being discovered – or Cutler Majestic Theatre, and the
at least of earning the Wheelock Family Theatre, have
cost of dinner. On the listening aids for the hearing
waterfront, the Institute impaired, while the latter also has
Entrance to the Shubert Theatre (see p160) of Contemporary Art signed and described performances.
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Tel (617) 728-1600. Museum of Fine Jordan Hall
∑ bluehillsbank Arts, Boston 30 Gainsborough St.
BosTix pavilion.ticketoffices. 465 Huntington Ave.
Faneuil Hall Marketplace. Tel (617) 585-1260.
com Tel (617) 369-3306.
Map 2 D3. ∑ necmusic.edu
Copley Square. Map 3 C2. Boston Harbor Hotel ∑ mfa.org
Tel (617) 482-2849. Rowes Wharf, Boston. VSA (Very Special
∑ bostix.com New England
Map 1 E4. Arts) Massachusetts
Tel (617) 439-7000. Conservatory
Live Nation 89 South St.
Various outlets. ∑ bhh.com of Music
Tel (800) 431-3462. 290 Huntington Ave. Map 4 F2.
Commonwealth
∑ livenation.com Shakespeare Tel (617) 585-1260. Tel (617) 350-7713.
Ticketmaster Company ∑ newengland TTY (617) 350-6385.
Various outlets Parkman Bandstand, conservatory.edu ∑ vsamass.org
Tel (800) 745-3000. Boston Common.
∑ ticketmaster.com Map 1 C4. Disabled Access Wheelock Family
Tel (617) 426-0863. Theatre
Open-Air/Free ∑ commshakes.org Cutler Majestic
200 Riverway,
Entertainment Institute of
Theatre
219 Tremont St. Brookline.
Blue Hills Bank Contemporary Art
Map 4 E2. Tel (617) 879-2300.
Pavilion 100 Northern Ave.
290 Northern Ave., South Map 2 F5. Tel (617) 824-8000. TTY (617) 879-2150.
Boston. Map 2 F5. Tel (617) 478-3100. ∑ cutlermajestic.org ∑ wheelock.edu/wft
The Arts in Boston restoration to their original

grandeur, and visitors today
Performing arts are vital to Boston’s cultural life. Since the are bound to be impressed
1880s, the social season has revolved around openings as they catch a glimpse of
of the Boston Symphony Orchestra and many Brahmins these theaters’ past glory.
The main commercially
(see p47) occupy their grandparents’ seats at performances. run theaters of Boston –
In the past, theaters in Boston were heavily censored the Colonial, Wilbur, and
(see p89), but today’s Bostonians are avid theatergoers, Shubert theaters, the Boston
patronizing commercial venues for plays bound to, Opera House and the Wang
or coming from, Broadway and attending ambitious Theatre (see pp85–9) – often
program Broadway productions
contemporary drama at repertory theaters. Many non
that have aleady premiered in
commercial theater and dance companies perform New York and are touring the
in smaller venues in local neighborhoods and at the United States. They also present
colleges. Although some theaters are closed on Mondays, Broadway “try outs” and local
there is rarely a night in Boston without performing arts. productions.
In stark contrast to some of
the mainstream shows on offer
Classical Music Classical works using the in Boston, the most avant-
and Opera period instruments for which garde contemporary theater
Two cherished Boston the composers wrote. H & H in the city is per formed at the
institutions, the Boston gives regular performances American Repertory Theater
Symphony Orchestra and in Boston at Symphony Hall, (ART), an independent, non-
its popular-music equivalent, Jordan Hall, and other venues. commercial company asso-
the Boston Pops, have a long Classical music is ubiquitous ciated with Harvard University
history of being led by some in Boston. Emmanuel Music, (see pp114–15). ART often
of America’s finest conductors. for example, performs sacred premieres new plays, partic-
The BSO performs a full music, including Bach, at ularly on its second stage,
schedule of concerts at regular services at Emmanuel but is best known for its
Symphony Hall from October Church on Newbury Street. often radical interpretations
through April. The Boston The Isabella Stewart Gardner of traditional and modern
Pops takes over for May and Museum (see p105) hosts classics. By further contrast,
June, performing at the a series of chamber music the independent Huntington
Charles River Esplanade (see concerts, continuing a Theatre is widely praised for
p94) for Fourth of July festiv- 19th-century tradition of its traditional direction and
ities that are the highlight of professional “music room” interpretation. For example,
the summer season. chamber concerts in the the Huntington was the
The students and faculty homes of the social elite. co-developer of Pulitzer-
of the New England The Celebrity Series brings Prize winning plays detailing
Conservatory of Music world-famous orchestras, 20th-century African American
present more than 450 free soloists, and dance companies life, by the late August Wilson,
classical and jazz performances to Boston, often to perform at an important chronicler of
each year, many in Jordan Jordan Hall, as well as several American race relations.
Hall (see p159). Boston Lyric other venues. Some 40 to 50 Several of the smaller
Opera has assumed the task events are organized. companies, including Lyric
of reestablishing opera in Stage, devote their energies
Boston, through small-cast to showcasing local actors and
and light opera at venues Theater directors and often premiere
around the city. Though much diminished the work of Boston-area
Boston’s oldest musical from its heyday in the playwrights. Many of the
organization is the Handel 1920s, when more than 40 most adventurous companies
& Haydn Society, founded theaters were in operation perform on one of the four
in 1815. As the first American throughout Boston, the city’s stages at the Boston Center
producer of such landmark Theater District (see pp80– for the Arts.
works as Handel’s Messiah 89) today still contains a
(performed annually since collection of some of the most
1818), Bach’s B-Minor Mass and architecturally eminent, and Dance
St. Matthew Passion, and Verdi’s still commercially productive, The city’s largest and most
Requiem, H & H is one of the early theaters in the United popular resident dance
country’s musical treasures. States. Furthermore, during the company, the Boston Ballet
Since 1986, the society has 1990s, many of the theaters performs an ambitious season
focused on performing and that are currently in use of classics and new chore-
recording Baroque and underwent programs of ography between October
and May at the restored Boston many other visiting dance couples with a shared passion
Opera House (see p85). The companies, who often put for the movies.
annual performances of the on performances at the Serious students of classic
Nutcracker during the Christ- Cutler Majestic Theatre. and international cinema
mas season are a Boston patronize the screening
tradition. The somewhat more programs of the Harvard Film
modest José Mateo Ballet Cinema Archive. The Kendall Square
Theatre has earned a repu- Situated in Harvard Square, Cinema multiplex is the city’s
tation for developing a strong close to Harvard Yard (see chief venue for non-English
and impressive program of pp112–13), the Brattle language films, art films and
repertory choreography. Theatre, one of the very last documentaries. Multiplex
The company performs in repertory movie houses in theaters showing mainstream,
the attractive neo-Gothic Old the Greater Boston area, first-run Hollywood movies are
Cambridge Baptist Church, primarily shows classic films found throughout the Boston
which is situated near Harvard on a big screen. For example, area. Some of the most popular
Square. Modern dance in the Brattle was instrumental and centrally-located options
Boston is represented by in reviving moviegoers’ are the AMC Loews Boston
many small companies, interest in the Humphrey Common, and Regal Fenway
collectives, and independent Bogart, black-and-white classic theaters. Tickets for every kind
choreographers, who often Casablanca. Something of a of movie in Boston are often
perform in the Dance Complex Harvard institution, the Brattle discounted for first shows of the
and Green Street Studios in has long served as a popular day on weekends and all
Cambridge. Boston also hosts “first date” destination for weekday shows before 5pm.
DIRECTORY
Classical Music Theater Shubert Theatre José Mateo
and Opera 265 Tremont St. Ballet Theatre
American Repertory Map 4 E2. 400 Harvard St,
Boston Lyric Opera Theater Tel (617) 482-9393. Cambridge.
Various venues. Loeb Drama Center, 64 ∑ citicenter.org`
Tel (617) 542-6772. Tel (617) 354-7467.
Brattle St., Cambridge.
∑ blo.org Wang Theatre ∑ ballettheatre.org
Tel (617) 547-8300.
Boston Symphony ∑ amrep.org
Tel (617) 482-9393. Cinema
Orchestra Boston Center for ∑ citicenter.org
Symphony Hall, 301 the Arts AMC Loews Boston
Massachusetts Ave. Wilbur Theatre
539 Tremont St. Common
Map 3 A4. Tel (617) 266- 246 Tremont St.
Map 4 D3. 175 Tremont St.
1200, (617) 266-1492. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 933-8600. Map 4 E2.
∑ bso.org Tel (617) 931-2000.
∑ bostontheater Tel (617) 423-5801.
∑ thewilbur
Celebrity Series scene.com theatre.com ∑ amctheatres.com
Various venues.
Boston Opera House
Tel (617) 482-6661. Dance Brattle Theatre
539 Washington St.
∑ celebrityseries.org 40 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Map 4 E1.
Boston Ballet Tel (617) 876-6837.
Emmanuel Music Tel (617) 931-2787. Various venues.
Emmanuel Church, 15 ∑ broadway ∑ brattlefilm.org
Tel (617) 695-6955.
Newbury St. Map 4 D2. acrossamerica.com Harvard Film Archive
∑ bostonballet.org
Tel (617) 536-3356.
Colonial Theatre 24 Quincy St., Cambridge.
∑ emmanuelmusic.org Cutler Majestic
106 Boylston St. Map 4 E2. Theatre Tel (617) 495-4700.
Handel & Haydn Tel (617) 426-9366. ∑ hcl.harvard.edu/hfa
Society ∑ artsemerson.org Tel (617) 824-8000. Kendall Square
Various venues.
Huntington Theatre ∑ cutlermajestic.org
Tel (617) 266-3605. Cinema
∑ handelandhaydn.org 264 Huntington Ave. Dance Complex 1 Kendall Square,
Map 3 B4. 536 Massachusetts Cambridge.
New England Tel (617) 266-0800. Ave., Cambridge. Tel (617) 499-1996.
Conservatory ∑ huntington Tel (617) 547-9363.
of Music ∑ landmark
theatre.org ∑ dancecomplex.org
Jordan Hall, theatres.com
30 Gainsborough St. Lyric Stage Green Street Studios
Map 3 A4. 140 Clarendon St. 185 Green St, Cambridge. Regal Fenway
Tel (617) 585-1260. Map 3 C3. Tel (617) 864-3191. 201 Brookline Ave.
∑ newengland Tel (617) 585-5678. ∑ greenstreet Tel (617) 424-6266.
conservatory.edu ∑ lyricstage.com studios.org ∑ regmovies.com
Music and Nightlife everywhere, little happens

until late at night; in Boston
Boston’s mix of young professionals and tens of thousands nothing gets going until at
of college students produces a lively nightlife scene, focused least 11pm. Housed in a
on live music, clubs, and bars. Ever since the 1920s, Boston centrally located boutique
hotel, the Emerald Lounge
has been especially hospitable to jazz, and it still has an attracts a mix of youngsters
interesting jazz scene, with Berklee College of Music playing and out-of-towners looking
an important part. Cambridge is an epicenter of folk and to groove on the dance floor.
acoustic music revivals and alt-rock, while Lansdowne Street The Grand Canal near North
near Fenway Park (see p166) is the main district for nightclubs. Station features techno and
house music for a youthful
Virtually every neighborhood has a selection of friendly
clientele. Located in the heart
bars, often with live music. of the Theater District, Whisky
Saigon attracts the city’s jet
set with pricey bottle service
Rock Music Square is a music lover’s delight, and the latest in dance and
The House of Blues chain of and features open mic sessions techno beats. Sleek Venu is
rock clubs was born in Greater on Mondays and bluegrass on the top spot where the young
Boston, and its return to the Tuesdays, while the weekends and chic go for post-midnight
city has spawned its largest and feature live blues, R&B, funk, and dancing. From its Back Bay
most successful club yet, on soul. The Cantab also runs subterranean home, Storyville
Lansdowne Street, near Fenway popular Wednesday night provides one the city’s most
Park. There are standing-room poetry “slams.” in-demand dance spots,
concerts on most nights. With filled with intimate nooks
four performance spaces, the and crannies. Also popular
Middle East in Cambridge’s Folk and World Music is the Royale in the Theater
Central Square leads the Harvard Square’s Club Passim is District, with classy touches
alternative rock scene, featuring a folk music legend, the hangout such as doormen instead of
both local bands and touring in the late 1950s and early 1960s bouncers, marble walls, and
newcomers. Larger rock concert for the likes of Joan Baez and a vast dance floor.
venues are the Orpheum Van Morrison, and still one
Theatre and the arena seating of of the United States’ key clubs
TD Garden, used at other times in the touring life of singer- Bars
for hockey and basketball games. songwriters. The Center for Arts The legal drinking age in
at the Armory, near Somerville’s Boston is 21, and you may
Union Square, houses studio be asked to show proof of
Jazz and Blues spaces for artists, a café, galleries, identification (see p174).
The city’s largest concert and two performance areas in Boston has many bars
venue for jazz is the Berklee a historic armory. It attracts a (see also p151), but many,
Performance Center in Back wide variety of musical acts such as those listed below,
Bay, which draws on faculty and from unknown folk artists to are specifically themed, offer
students from Berklee College international world music acts. live entertainment, or place
of Music as well as touring Davis Square is a couple of Red a strong emphasis on being
performers. More intimate Line stops farther out from “party” venues. The bar at
settings include Scullers Jazz Harvard station, but well worth Mistral is typical of the
Club overlooking the Charles the trip for the bustling music increasingly upscale places
River in Brighton, the small scene in bars and periodic springing up in Boston, where
hall for aficionados at the performances by comedians, the young and the beautiful
Multicultural Arts Center in singer-songwriters, and even like to meet and play. More
East Cambridge, and the suave acoustic string bands at the down to earth are some of
elegance of the Regattabar just venerable Somerville Theatre. Boston’s Irish bars offering
off Harvard Square. No-frills, International acts ranging live music and the obligatory
neighborhood jazz thrives at from Afro-pop to ska play pints of Guinness. Among
Ryles Jazz Club in Cambridge’s at many large venues across these are The Phoenix
Inman Square. The musical Boston in a concert series Landing, a welcoming Irish
parent of jazz, the blues, is also presented by the music pub in Central Square lined
alive and well. Wally’s in the promoters World Music. with mahogany and featuring
South End has an ambience English football on cable
that is pure 1940s juke joint, but television as well as lively
there’s no denying the veracity Nightclubs and Discos retro-themed dance nights;
of the jazz wailing from its Boston has a club for just The Burren that features
narrow confines. The Cantab about every type of dance some of the finest live Irish
Lounge in Cambridge’s Central music. Like club scenes music in the area, and the
smaller Druid, a welcoming Gay Clubs and Bars Comedy Clubs

spot in Cambridge’s cosy Boston’s gay scene comes into Many clubs and bars program
Inman Square. sharpest focus in the South End occasional evenings of
Bostonians love sports, and and Bay Village, but gay and standup comedy, and several
the city has dozens of sports gay-friendly bars and clubs are specialize in this form of
bars. The Cask ‘N’ Flagon found throughout the city. The entertainment. The Comedy
is adjacent to Fenway Park, perpetually packed Club Cafe, Connection at the Wilbur
perfect for celebrating victory which straddles the busy border Theatre, brings laughter to the
or softening the pain of defeat. between South End and Back historic hall with an impressive
At Kings big-screen sports Bay, is a stalwart of the city’s LGBT line-up of comedians, who
TVs vie with bowling lanes, social scene. Boston’s longest- are familiar from their work
professional pool tables and running gay club, Jacques, on national television. Nick’s
skee ball and shuffleboard features lively drag shows and Comedy Stop in the Theater
tables. The Fours is just one female impersonator cabaret District, on the other hand,
of the numerous bars that during the rest of the week. The tends to concentrate more on
cater to Boston Celtics and weekly Bay Windows newspaper homegrown talent, grooming
Boston Bruins fans near the provides wider information as performers who often go on
TD Garden Arena. do other Boston listings. to the “big time.”
DIRECTORY
Rock Music Ryles Jazz Club Nightclubs Kings
212 Hampshire St., and Discos 50 Dalton St.
House of Blues
Cambridge. Map 3 A3.
15 Lansdowne St. Emerald Lounge
Tel (617) 876-9330. Tel (617) 266-2695.
Tel (888) 693-2583. 200 Stuart St. Map 1 B5.
∑ hob.com ∑ rylesjazz.com Mistral
Tel (617) 457-2626.
Middle East Scullers Jazz Club ∑ emeraldnightlife.com 223 Columbus Ave.
472/480 Massachusetts Doubletree Guest Suites, Map 4 D3.
Grand Canal
Ave., Cambridge. 400 Soldiers Field Rd., Tel (617) 867-9300.
Tel (617) 864-3278 ext. 221. 57 Canal St. Map 2 D2.
Brighton. Tel (617) 523-1112. The Phoenix Landing
∑ mideastclub.com
Tel (617) 562-4111. 512 Massachusetts Ave.,
Orpheum Theatre ∑ scullersjazz.com
Royale
Cambridge.
1 Hamilton Pl. Map 1 C4. 279 Tremont St. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 576-6260.
Tel (617) 679-0810. Wally’s Cafe Tel (617) 338-7699.
TD Garden Storyville Gay Bars
Tel (617) 424-1408.
1 Causeway St. Map 1 C2. 90 Exeter St. Map 3 C3. and Clubs
Tel (617) 624-1000. Tel (617) 236-1134.
Folk and World ∑ storyvilleboston.com Club Cafe
∑ tdgarden.com
Music 209 Columbus Ave.
Venu
Jazz and Blues The Center for Arts 100 Warrenton St. Map 3 C3.
Map 4 E2. Tel (617) 536-0966.
Berklee Performance at the Armory
191 Highland Ave., Tel (617) 338-8061. Jacques
Center
Berklee College of Music, Somerville. Whisky Saigon 79 Broadway.
136 Massachusetts Ave. Tel (617) 718-2191. 116 Boylston St. Map 4 F4.
Tel (617) 266-7455. ∑ artsatthearmory.org Tel (617) 482-7799. Tel (617) 426-8902.
∑ berklee.edu/BPC
Club Passim Comedy Clubs
Cantab Lounge Bars
47 Palmer St., Cambridge.
738 Massachusetts Comedy Connection
Tel (617) 492-7679. The Burren
Ave., Cambridge.
∑ clubpassim.org 247 Elm St., Somerville. Wilbur Theatre, 246
Tel (617) 354-2685.
Tel (617) 776-6896. Tremont St.
Multicultural Arts Somerville Theatre Map 4 E2.
The Cask ‘N’ Flagon
Center 55 Davis Square, Tel (617) 931-2000.
62 Brookline Ave.
41 Second St., Cambridge. Somerville. ∑ thewilbur
Tel (617) 536-4840.
Tel (617) 577-1400. Tel (617) 625-4088. theatre.com
∑ multicultural Druid
∑ somervilletheatre.
artscenter.org 1357 Cambridge St., Nick’s Comedy Stop
com
Cambridge. 100 Warrenton St.
Regattabar
World Music Tel (617) 497-0965. Map 4 E2.
Charles Hotel, 1 Bennett
St., Cambridge. Box Office: The Fours Tel (617) 423-2900.
Tel (617) 395-7757. Tel (617) 876-4275. 166 Canal St. Map 1 C2. ∑ nickscomedy
∑ regattabarjazz.com ∑ worldmusic.org Tel (617) 720-4455. stop.com
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR

ACTIVITIES
Bostonians have a wealth of recreational to one of the extensive cycle paths, or
opportunities, thanks largely to the playing a round at a public golf course. In
city’s many spacious parks, its long, well- the winter there is also outdoor ice-skating,
maintained riverfront, sizeable harbor, and and farther afield, skiing. For those who
excellent sports facilities. Visitors can enjoy watch sports rather than participate, major-
many outdoor activities, whether it is league baseball, football, soccer, basketball,
going for an early morning jog on Boston and ice hockey are played at different
Common, sailing on the Charles River, taking times through the year.
Water Sports Bicycling, Jogging, Inline skating and jogging

During all but the winter and Skating are also popular activities
months, dozens of small plea The gentle Boston topography in Boston, with riverside
sure craft can be seen navigating makes sightseeing by bicycle esplanades and Boston
the Charles River between ideal. A number of good trails Common being the favorite
Cambridge and Boston. At long and bicycle paths crisscross the areas. If you are looking to buy
established Community Boating, city, the most popular of which some gear, try City Sports.
only experienced sailors are is the Dr. Paul Dudley White Bike
able to rent sailboats, while Path. This links central Boston
farther upriver at the Charles with outlying Watertown via a
River Canoe & Kayak Center, circular 17mile (27km) trail that
canoes, rowboats, and adult and runs along both sides of the
children’s kayaks can be rented. Charles River. The Southwest
For those who enjoy swim Corridor cycle route links the
ming or sunbathing, there are Back Bay with Roxbury along
several good beaches near a section of the Emerald
Boston, and one supervised Necklace (see p105), and the
beach on the Boston Harbor Boston harborfront pathways
Islands, reached by ferry from also attract many cyclists.
Long Wharf. Carson Beach and Farther afield, an old railroad
the beach at Castle Island in line has been transformed into
South Boston are two of the the Minuteman Bikeway, which
closest, while Revere Beach to runs between Cambridge and
the north is larger and busier Bedford via historic Lexington. Cyclist riding through historic Concord,
and served by the subway. From Urban AdvenTours offers northwest of Boston
June to September swimmers cycle tours along with rental
can use the Department of bikes, while other rental stores Golf and Tennis
Conservation and Recreation include Back Bay Bicycles and Along with its many
outdoor swimming pools. Community Bicycle Supply. excellent private golf clubs,
the Boston area also boasts
a number of public golf courses,
including some municipal links.
The William J. Devine Golf
Course in Franklin Park is the
city’s public golf course and
there is also the ninehole Fresh
Pond Golf Course in Cambridge.
The Department of
Conservation and Recreation
maintains a dozen public tennis
courts in Boston. Those in North
End Park on Commercial Street
and Charlesbank Park on the
Charles River Esplanade are the
most central. Court time can
not usually be reserved, so
availability is on a firstcome
Sailboats on the Charles River with the Back Bay in the distance firstserved basis.
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  165
Winter Sports
Freezing winter weather sees
large groups of heavily clothed
ice skaters heading for the Frog
Pond on Boston Common.
A modest fee is charged for
skating, and skate rental is
available in the pavilion by Frog
Pond, or else a few blocks away
at the Beacon Hill Skate Shop.
Each winter, the Department of
Conservation and Recreation
also opens its many indoor rinks
in Boston and Cambridge to
the public, including Steriti Rink
in the North End, which also
has an indoor bocce court. Enthusiastic ice-skaters take to the frozen Boston Common pond
Most of the best skiing in
New England is found a long Fitness Facilities Fitcorp has excellent, modern
way from Boston, in Vermont, Amenities at most of Boston’s exercise facilities at numerous
Maine, and New Hampshire. large hotels include fitness city locations, while Boston
Closer options include Blue facilities. Those hotels that don’t Athletic Club in Downtown
Hills Ski Area in Canton for have facilities on-site usually has both a well-equipped gym,
downhill skiing, and Middlesex have an arrangement whereby and also a swimming pool,
Fells Reservation in Stoneham guests can use a private club in tennis, and squash courts.
for cross-country. These areas the immediate area. Otherwise, Across the river, Cambridge
depend a lot on the weather, choose from the many other Athletic Club offers various
however, and have only a public gyms and health clubs racquet sports and a
few slopes. found throughout the city. good gym.
DIRECTORY
Water Sports Community Bicycle Winter Sports Fitcorp
Supply 1 Beacon St. Map 1 C4.
Boston Harbor Beacon Hill Tel (617) 248-9797.
Islands National 496 Tremont St. Skate Shop
Map 4 D3. Prudential Center.
Park Area 135 South Charles St.
Map 3 B3.
Tel (617) 223-8666. Tel (617) 542-8623. Map 4 E2.
Tel (617) 262-2050.
∑ bostonharbor ∑ community Tel (617) 482-7400.
islands.org ∑ beaconhill 125 Summer St.
bicycle.com
skateshop.com Map 2 D4.
Charles River Canoe Tel (617) 261-4855.
Urban AdvenTours
& Kayak Center Blue Hills Ski Area
Boston Common. 197 Clarendon St.
Soldiers Field Rd., Allston. Canton, MA 02021.
Map 1 C4. Map 3 C2.
Tel (617) 965-5110. Tel (781) 828-5070.
Tel (617) 933-5090.
∑ ski-paddle.com Tel (617) 670-0637. ∑ ski-bluehills.com
∑ fitcorp.com
Community Boating ∑ urbanadventours.com Middlesex Fells
21 David G. Mugar Way. Reservation Useful Addresses
Map 1 A3. Golf Courses MDC, 4 Woodland Rd.,
Boston Parks and
Tel (617) 523-1038. Stoneham, MA 02180.
Fresh Pond Recreation
∑ community-boating. Tel (781) 662-2340.
Golf Course Department
org ∑ mass.gov/dcr/parks
691 Huron Ave.,
Bicycling and Fitness Facilities Tel (617) 635-4505.
Cambridge.
∑ cityofboston.gov/
Skating Tel (617) 349-6282. Boston Athletic Club parks
Back Bay Bicycles ∑ freshpondgolf.com 653 Summer St. Department of
362 Commonwealth Ave. Tel (617) 269-4300. Conservation and
William J. Devine
Map 3 A2. ∑ bostonathletic Recreation
Tel (617) 247-2336. Golf Course at club.com 251 Causeway St.
∑ papa-wheelies.com Franklin Park
Cambridge Tel (617) 626-1250.
1 Circuit Drive, ∑ mass.gov/dcr/parks
City Sports Athletic Club
44 Brattle St., Cambridge. Dorchester. 215 First St., Cambridge.
Tel (617) 492-6000. Tel (617) 265-4084. Tel (617) 491-8989.
∑ citysports.com ∑ cityofbostongolf.com ∑ cambridgefitness.com
Spectator Sports
Bostonians watch sporting events with a passion that is
unmatched in most other U.S. cities. Boston has had a
team in every major professional league for many years,
and some of popular sports’ greatest athletes have played
for home teams. Moreover, such widely known annual
competitions as the Boston Marathon and the Head of
the Charles Regatta draw amazingly large and enthusiastic
crowds, as do the metropolitan area’s many college
teams, which have long traditions and avid fans.
Baseball trophy in 2008. Banners hang Zdeno Chára of the Boston Bruins on the
No matter whether they win or above their home court, the ice at TD Garden
lose, the Boston Red Sox have modern 19,000-seat TD Garden
an emotional following, especially arena, paying testament to this Ice Hockey
when the New York Yankees come record. Even when not playing to Six Stanley Cup wins make the
to town. The Red Sox’s beloved their full potential, the Celtics Boston Bruins one of the most
Fenway Park stadium is the oldest draw big crowds, hoping to see successful teams in National
in the country, and is famous for the team rekindle past glories. Hockey League (NHL) history,
its enormous 37-ft (11-m) left-field Tickets are usually available for although their form has been
wall known as the “Green Monster.” most games, although they can changeable. The hockey season
The small seating capacity, be pricey – good seats cost at runs from September to April,
however, means that tickets can least $50. The season runs from with the hard-charging “B’s”
be difficult to obtain for the bigger October to April. playing in the NHL’s Eastern
games. Tickets are sold at the gate Conference. End-of-season
on the day of the playoff games are often sold
game and are also American Football out well in advance, but for
available from the The home football team, the other games, tickets are usually
Fenway Park New England Patriots, once available for between $10 and
hotline. The dominated the sport, and won $175. Games are played at
“Bosox” are in the the game’s biggest prize in TD Garden.
Eastern Division 2002, 2004, 2005, and 2014.
of the American They play against their National
League, one of the Football League (NFL) opponents Other Sports
country’s two in Gillette Stadium, about an Boston’s major-league
major pro- hour’s drive southwest of professional soccer team, the
fessional downtown Boston. Most NFL New England Revolution, plays
leagues. games are played during the all of its home games at Gillette
Red Sox hitter The fall on Sundays, or sometimes Stadium after the New England
David Ortiz baseball on Monday evenings to attract Patriots have finished their
season runs a national television audience. season. The soccer season runs
from early April to the end of Tickets sell out a long way in from March through to October,
September, with championship advance, so the chances of and the game is slowly gaining
games in October. In 2004, picking one up are remote. more widespread support, due
Boston ended a long drought to
win the World Series in dramatic,
come-from-behind fashion, and
they won again in 2007 and 2013.
Basketball
One of the sport’s marquee
teams, the Boston Celtics have
been the most successful of all
of Boston’s major-league sports
teams. They were the dominant
team during the 1960s and 80s,
winning 16 National Basketball
Association (NBA) championships
before accomplishing a 17th Horses leaving the gates at Suffolk Downs racetrack
SPORTS AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES  167
partly to its increasing popularity

as a college sport.
Suffolk Downs is the Boston
area’s only thoroughbred
racetrack, where bets are taken
on both live and simulcast
races. Fans of the fast-paced
men’s lacrosse can watch the
Boston Cannons (Major League
Lacrosse) play their home games
at the Harvard Stadium in Allston.
Tennis fans can catch a
glimpse of world class tennis
players by cheering on the
Boston Lobsters of the World
Team Tennis League. The team’s Boats taking part in the Head of the Charles Regatta in October
roster and home venue changes
almost every year, and most the entire length of the course one, with multitudes of spec-
matches are held in July (check to cheer on the runners. tators crowding both banks of
the team’s website for details). The other major event of the the river, spread out on blankets
Each year on Patriots Day (a city sporting year is the Head of the and enjoying picnics and beer
holiday on the third Monday of Charles Regatta. The world’s as they cheer on the rowers.
April), the largest event on the largest two-day rowing
sports calendar takes place. competition is held annually
The Boston Marathon has during the third weekend of College Sports
burgeoned since its inception October on the Charles River. Boston’s major colleges actively
in 1897, and now It involves more than compete in a number of sports,
approximately 15,000 6,000 crew members, with the major events occurring
participants, who represent clubs, during the winter and fall. The
including many top universities, and annual Harvard–Yale football
runners from all over colleges from around game takes place on the
the world, take on the world. The 3-mile Saturday before Thanksgiving
the challenge of the (5-km) course runs and is usually a fun and spirited
26.2-mile (42.2-km) upstream from Boston event, both on and off the field.
course. The marathon University boathouse to The sport that Boston colleges
starts in the town of Eliot Bridge. With up to are best at, however, is ice
Hopkinton, west of 80 boats in each race, hockey, and the biggest event
Boston, and finishes crews set off at short on the calendar is the fiercely
Downtown at the intervals and are contested Beanpot hockey
Boston Public timed along the tournament. This is held at TD
Library on Boylston Detail from plaque course. Garden over two weekends in
Street. More than half celebrating the This is a major social early February and involves the
a million people line Boston Marathon event, as well as a sports area’s major colleges.
DIRECTORY
Baseball American Other Sports New England
Football Boston Cannons
Revolution
Boston Red Sox Gillette Stadium
Fenway Park, New England Patriots Harvard Stadium, (see New England
65 N Harvard St., Allston. Patriots).
4 Yawkey Way. Gillette Stadium,
Tel (617) 746-9933. ∑ revolutionsoccer.net
Tel (617) 267-1700. Route 1, Foxboro.
∑ redsox.com Tel (617) 931-2222 Boston Lobsters Suffolk Downs
Tel (877) 617-5627. Route 1a, East Boston.
(Ticketmaster).
Basketball ∑ bostonlobsters.net Tel (617) 567-3900.
∑ ticketmaster.com
Boston Marathon ∑ suffolkdowns.com
Boston Celtics ∑ patriots.com
Boston Athletic
TD Garden, Ice Hockey Association.
1 Causeway St. Tel (617) 236-1652.
Map 1 C2. Boston Bruins ∑ bostonmarathon.org
Tel (617) 931-2222 TD Garden Head of the
(Ticketmaster). (see Boston Celtics). Charles Regatta
∑ celtics.com ∑ bostonbruins.com ∑ hocr.org
CHILDREN’S BOSTON
First-time visitors to Boston may wonder Freedom Trail, or visit Franklin Park Zoo,
what this city, famous for its history and families will soon discover that Boston’s
learning, has to offer families with children. unique heritage has as much to interest
The answer is more than can possibly be children as it does adults. A good starting
explored in one visit, with an enormous point is the Prudential Center Skywalk
variety of children’s attractions and (see p100), a 360-degree observatory from
entertainment, as well as many helpful where children can locate the city’s major
services and facilities. Whether you begin landmarks, parks, and attractions. For parents
your adventure at Boston’s acclaimed hoping to find some time on their own, a
Children’s Museum, head out to sea on a few attractions have supervised children’s
whale-watching expedition, take a specially activities and entertainment, and there are
designed children’s walking tour of The also various baby-sitting agencies.
historic ballpark. The experienced

guides of Boston by Foot
conduct special 60-minute
family walking tours of the
heart of The Freedom Trail (see
pp126–9). History comes alive
for children as they walk along
the old cobblestone streets,
and visit many sites of
architectural and historical
significance. Tours begin and
end in front of the statue of
Boston’s Duck Tours – from dry land to the Charles River Samuel Adams at Faneuil Hall.
This is the gateway to Quincy
Practical Advice for a land and water tour of Market (see p66), a lively
A useful monthly publication, historic Boston with Boston emporium that sees flocks
found free at many local Duck Tours (see p183). These of tourists and locals alike,
children’s attractions, is The drive past the city’s historic attracted by the enormous
Boston Parent’s Paper. This has neighborhoods and landmarks array of restaurants, shops,
detailed listings of events, and then splash into the Charles and entertainment. Children
attractions, and activities for River for a spectacular view in particular will enjoy the
kids throughout the Boston of the Boston skyline. Boston’s jugglers, mime artists,
region. Children’s events are also inner harbor and islands can be musicians, and magicians
listed in Thursday’s edition of explored with Boston Harbor who perform all around the
The Boston Globe. Short-term Cruises. Some cruises also attractive and traffic-free
baby-sitting can be arranged stop at the U.S.S. Constitution, cobblestone marketplace.
through Parents in a Pinch. commonly known as
CVS Pharmacy (see p177) “Old Ironsides” (see
is open 24 hours a day for p117). Even more
supplies. Boston is easy to breathtaking are the
explore on foot, but be cautious whale-watching trips,
before crossing streets with run all through the
children, as Boston’s drivers and summer by the New
cyclists can be very assertive. England Aquarium
Boston’s subway system (see (see pp78–9).
pp182–3), is free for children Even if tickets to
under 12 with an adult. see the Red Sox
games are sold out,
baseball fans can still
Tours and take the 60-minute
Historical Sights tour of Fenway Park
There are many tours and for a behind-the-
historical sights in Boston which scenes glimpse
children will find both fun and of the press box,
interesting. They can board an private suites, and
amphibious World War II vehicle dugouts of this Street entertainer, Quincy Market
CHILDREN’S BOSTON  169
Museums organized throughout

Known as a pioneer of hands- the galleries.
on interactive learning, Boston The unique history
Children’s Museum (see p77) of Boston’s African-
calls itself “Boston’s Best Place for American community
Kids,” offering four floors of fun- is presented at two
filled education for toddlers to sites. The centerpiece
pre-teens in one building and of the Museum of
three stories of exhibits in African American
a new adjoining structure. History (see p51) is the
Children can explore a 170-year- oldest black church
old house transplanted from in the U.S., and the
Tokyo, create giant bubbles or Abiel Smith School
conduct experiments in the (see p51) was the first
Science Playground, and learn schoolhouse for black
about healthy, active lifestyles children in America.
in the KidPower exhibition. The schoolhouse has
Children aged under three interactive computer Having fun, Boston Museum of Science
have their own Playspace, a stations where children
stimulating second-floor area can learn about slavery, the mini-presentations, and a vast
designed especially for them. American abolitionist move- collection of sports memora-
The Museum of Science (see ment, and the Underground bilia chronicle the region’s
p55) could be another Railroad (see p51), as well as sporting history. Children will
full-day stop, housing over more contemporary issues be fascinated by the life-size
700 permanent exhibits affecting African- wooden statues of Larry Bird,
exploring astronomy, Americans in New Carl Yastrzemski, and Bobby
energy, industry, England. Older Orr, and enthusiastically take
anthropology, and children may be the chance to try out a variety
nature. Younger interested in the of sports equipment.
children will enjoy Black Heritage Trail
the Human Body (see p51), a 1.5-mile DIRECTORY
Connection Animal (2.5-km) guided
Care Center, while walking tour that Practical Advice
older kids can visits 14 sites
Parents in a Pinch
explore basic significant to
Tel (855) 781-1303.
scientific principles the history of free
∑ parentsinapinch.com
in Investigate. All African-Americans.
will be impressed The Boston Tea Party Tours and
by the life-sized Playspace activity, Ships & Museum Historical Sights
Tyrannosaurus Rex and Children’s Museum (see p76), with models
the To The Moon of the two brigantine Boston by Foot
exhibit, with full-size models ships involved in the infamous 87 Mount Vernon Street.
of the Apollo and Mercury rebellion, features several Map 1 B4.
space capsules. Attached to the interactive attractions after an Tel (617) 367-2345.
museum there is also a Planet- extensive renovation. ∑ bostonbyfoot.com
arium and an Omni IMAX Sports enthusiasts will want Boston Harbor Cruises
film theater. to take a trip to the Sports Long Wharf.
Few art museums have made Museum of New England, Map 2 E3.
their collections so accessible to where interactive exhibits, Tel (617) 227-4321.
families as the Museum of Fine ∑ bostonharborcruises.com
Arts, Boston (see pp106–9).
Multi-session art classes and Fenway Park
workshops are offered for kids 4 Yawkey Way.
and adults in several media, Tel (617) 226-6666.
∑ redsox.com
including drawing, painting,
sculpture, and weaving. For
Museums
more casual visitors, the
MFA schedules children’s Sports Museum of
art activities in the galleries New England
and provides tote bags with TD Garden.
suggested activities for families. Map 1 C2.
During February and April Tel (617) 624-1234.
school vacations, performances Hands-on exhibit at Boston’s Museum ∑ sportsmuseum.org
and art-making activities are of Science
from Beacon Hill and Back Bay.

There is a playground here, as
well as Frog Pond, which is
a huge wading pool in the
summer and a skating rink
in the winter. Boston’s most
attractive park, the highlight
of the Emerald Necklace, is
Arnold Arboretum (see p104),
in Jamaica Plain. With plenty
of opportunities for exploration,
it is a good place for children
to let off steam.
Capybara, one of the many fascinating animals at Franklin Park Zoo Children’s Theater
Children’s theater thrives
Aquariums, with its collection of native and in Boston. The Boston
Zoos, and Parks exotic fauna. Don’t miss the Children’s Theatre celebrated
Visitors are greeted by a group colorful Tropical Forest, the its 50th season in 2000, with
of harbor seals at the entrance Giraffe and Zebra Savannah, its acclaimed “live theater for
to the New England Aquarium Bird’s World, and the majestic children by children.” Mainstage
(see pp78–9), but once inside, African lions in the productions run from
all eyes are transfixed by the Kalahari Kingdom. December through April, and
huge 200,000 gallon (900,000 No visit to the city its Stagemobile takes
liter) saltwater tank, which is complete without performances outside
teems with tropical fish, sharks, a gentle ride on the to Boston’s parks in
sea turtles, and even the famous Swan Boats the summer. The
occasional scuba diver. The (see p48) in the city’s Wheelock Family
gently inclined wheelchair- Public Garden. The Theatre, another
friendly ramp winds up and pedal-propelled highly acclaimed
around the three-story boats gently glide company, uses
cylindrical tank, giving a fas- across a lovely lagoon multi-ethnic and
cinating view of this simulated as ducks clamor inter-generational
marine environment. Young alongside for a snack. casting, with
children will also enjoy getting Nearby are large performances on
their hands wet in the shark and bronze sculptures Bronze duck sculpture, most weekends
ray touch tank and watching of Mrs. Mallard and Public Garden from September to
the penguins and the harbor family, immortalized May. Fables and fairy
seals. Families can take a whale- in Robert McCloskey’s 1941 tales come to life at the Puppet
watching cruise or just watch a children’s classic Make Way for Showplace Theater, with
film on the enormous screen in Ducklings (see p48). Crossing shows for pre-schoolers on
the IMAX Theatre. Animal lovers Charles Street, visitors will come Wednesday, and performances
will want to head directly to to Boston Common (see pp48– for families on weekends from
Franklin Park Zoo (see p104), 9), which separates Downtown September to May.
Visitors enjoying Swan Boat cruises in the pond, Public Garden

CHILDREN’S BOSTON  171
Patagonia. It is well worth

the trip to Brookline Village
for the Children’s Book
Shop, which has an excellent
selection of books for infants
to young adults, and to
Jamaica Plain for the bubbly
Boing! JP’s Toy Shop. Kids
will also enjoy the shops, stalls,
and street vendors at Quincy
Market (see p66).
Eating Out with Children

Though children never seem
to tire of fast food, adults
generally long for something
Marionettes on stage at the Puppet Showplace Theater more substantial and memo
rable. Both needs can be
Children’s Shopping Store carries one of the catered for in many of Boston’s
While keeping children country’s most complete restaurants. Children will enjoy
entertained can often be a stocks of children’s books, sampling Chinese delicacies
challenge, in Boston you while Stellabella Toys has a at China Pearl in Chinatown.
will find that even shopping menagerie of cuddly stuffed For pizza in an authentic Italian
can hold their interest, with animals and fun educational atmosphere, try the North End’s
enticing window displays, and items. Newbury Comics Pizzeria Regina. In Cambridge,
stores overflowing with desir features the best The Cheesecake Factory
able products. Do not, however, selection of comic has an incredibly vast menu
expect to survive such an books in Boston. of casual fare as well as its
outing without spending any Games People Play eponymous sweets and
money. In Cambridge, Susi’s stocks a huge is sure to please every
Gallery for Children has bright assortment of toys family member. In the
and innovative goods with a and games. The latest Huron Avenue shopping
sense of whimsy, and Henry in cool clothing can district in Cambridge,
Bear’s Park across town is be found at Baby the friendly restaurant
especially wellstocked with Gap, and there’s a Full Moon has a play
toys graded by age. In Harvard wide selection of Popcorn, a area as well as a
Square, The Curious George outdoor gear at favorite snack varied kid’s menu.
DIRECTORY
Children’s Theater Children’s Henry Bear’s Park Eating Out
Shopping 17 White St., Cambridge. with Children
Boston Children’s Tel (617) 5478424.
Theatre Baby Gap The Cheesecake
316 Columbus Ave. Copley Place, 100 Newbury Comics
Huntington Ave. Factory
Map 3 C3. Map 3 C3. 332 Newbury St. 100 Cambridgeside
Tel (617) 4246634. Tel (617) 2471754. Map 3 A3.
Place, Cambridge.
∑ bostonchildrens Tel (617) 2364930.
Boing! JP’s Toy Shop Tel (617) 2523810.
theatre.org 667 Centre St., Patagonia
Puppet Showplace Jamaica Plain. China Pearl
346 Newbury St.
Tel (617) 5227800. 9 Tyler St.
Theater Map 3 A3.
32–33 Station St., Children’s Book Shop Map 4 F2.
Tel (617) 4241776.
Brookline. 237 Washington St., Tel (617) 4264338.
Brookline. Stellabella Toys
Tel (617) 7316400.
Tel (617) 7347323. 1360 Cambridge St., Full Moon
∑ puppetshow
The Curious George Cambridge. 344 Huron Ave.,
place.org
Store Tel (617) 4916290. Cambridge.
Wheelock 1 JFK St., Cambridge. Tel (617) 3546699.
Family Theatre Tel (617) 4980062. Susi’s Gallery
200 The Riverway, Games People Play for Children Pizzeria Regina
Brookline. 1100 Massachusetts Ave., 348 Huron Ave., 11½ Thatcher St.
Tel (617) 8792300. Cambridge. Cambridge. Map 2 D2.
∑ wheelock.edu/wft Tel (617) 4920711. Tel (617) 8767874. Tel (617) 2270765.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 174–179

Travel Information 180–185
Boston Street Finder 186–191
174  SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
More than most American cities, Boston is international travelers, making it very easy
built to human scale. With the main parts to feel at home here and comfortable
of the city all within a relatively small area, exploring. So long as visitors take a few
Boston is ideal for the visitor, with walking sensible precautions, they should enjoy a
not only possible, but often preferable, trouble-free stay. Boston’s visitor information
despite an efficient transit system. Boston centers help people get the most from their
is also one of the safest major cities in the stay, and the city also deals better than most
U.S., and one of the most welcoming to with the needs of children and the disabled.
Visas and Passports Tourist Information and except groceries and clothing
Citizens of the U.K., most western Opening Hours items priced under $175. State
European countries, Australia, Visitor information desks at the sales tax is 6.25 per cent, and
New Zealand, Japan, Canada, airport can provide guides and hotel tax in the Boston metrop-
Mexico, and Caribbean nations maps and answer questions. The olitan area is 14.45 per cent.
(except Cuba) need a valid, Greater Boston Convention Tipping is expected for
machine-readable passport and and Visitors Bureau offers a most services: in restaurants
must register (and pay a small comprehensive online guide tip 15–20 per cent of the bill,
charge) before traveling with for lodging, with links to make and give $1 per bag to
the Electronic System for Travel reservations. Major hotels also porters and $2 to valet parking
Authorization (ESTA) at esta.cbp. have helpful guest service desks. attendants. Bartenders
dhs.gov. The ESTA authorization All of these places also hold a expect $1–2 per drink.
is for a maximum stay of 90 days range of discount tickets for many
in the U.S. and remains valid for of Boston’s major museums and
two years. Foreign visitors should attractions, nightlife spots, Alcohol and Smoking
check with their American theaters, and restaurants. The legal minimum age for
consulate for details about Opening hours vary greatly, drinking alcohol in Boston is
passport and visa procedures. so check in advance. In general, 21; most young people will
Citizens of all other countries most shops and attractions are be required to show photo
need a valid passport and a open 10am–6pm daily, with identification (I.D.) as proof
tourist visa, which can be reduced hours on Sundays. of age in order to get into bars
obtained from a U.S. consulate Many shops stay open later on and to purchase alcohol. It is
or embassy. Thursdays, while key attractions, illegal to drink in public spaces,
like the Museum of Fine Arts and penalties for driving under
(see p106–7), offer extended the influence of alcohol are
Travel Safety hours one night a week. severe. The legal age for
Visitors can get up-to-date travel buying cigarettes is 21, and
safety information from the I.D. may also be required. It is
Foreign and Commonwealth Tax and Tipping illegal to smoke in public
Office in the U.K., the State In Boston and the surrounding buildings and in all bars and
Department in the U.S. and area, taxes will be added to restaurants (see p139).
the Department of Foreign hotel and restaurant charges
Affairs and Trade in Australia. and most retail purchases,
Travelers with
Special Needs
Massachusetts and U.S. law
mandate accessibility for
persons with handicaps, but
wheelchair accessibility is
sometimes limited in Boston’s
historic buildings. Most hotels
and restaurants, however,
are wheelchair accessible.
VSA (Very Special Arts)
Massachusetts provides useful
information on disabled-
accessible entertainment.
For other information, contact
the Society for Accessible
Visitor Information Center on Boston Common Travel and Hospitality.
Exterior view of the busy South Station complex in Boston
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N  175
Traveling with Children Electricity

DIRECTORY
Boston is in general a child Electricity flows at 110–120
friendly city, boasting its volts, and a twoprong plug is Travel Safety
own Children’s Museum used. NonU.S. appliances will Australia: Department of
(see p77), as well as numerous need an adaptor and a voltage Foreign Affairs and Trade
other museums and a variety converter. Most hotel rooms ∑ dfat.gov.au/smartraveller.
of attractions that offer inter have hairdriers, as well as gov.au
esting handson exhibits sockets for electric shavers. UK: Foreign and
and activities for children Commonwealth Office
(see pp168–71). ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
Families with children will
US: US Department of State
find that the casual and fast
∑ travel.state.gov
food restaurants cater best to
their needs, with menus often Tourist Information
tailored to children’s tastes
and appetites. Children are Cambridge Office for Tourism
welcome at most of Boston’s 4 Brattle St., Cambridge.
Tel (617) 4412884, (617) 497
restaurants, however. 1630, or (800) 8625678.
∑ cambridge-usa.org
Cycling along the Charles River Booth at: Harvard Sq.
Traveling on a Budget
Boston hosts a large number Responsible Tourism Greater Boston Convention
and Visitors Bureau
of free attractions, exhibitions, Long considered one of the 2 Copley Place, Suite 105. Tel
and performances. For details, U.S.’s most environmentally (617) 5364100 or (888) 7332678.
consult the websites of The conscious cities, Boston ∑ bostonusa.com
Boston Globe and the Boston continues to gain national Booths at: Boston Common, Map
Magazine (see p158). acclaim for its forwardthinking 1 C4; Prudential Center, Map 3 B3.
Students from abroad should policies, such as requiring all
purchase an International taxicabs to go hybrid by 2015. Travelers with
Student Identity Card (I.S.I.C.) It is easy to be green while
Special Needs
before traveling, since there in Boston. Recycling bins have Society for Accessible Travel
are many discounts available become quite common, and and Hospitality
to students in Boston. The most new buildings boast Tel (212) 4477284. ∑ sath.org
I.S.I.C. handbook lists places Earthfriendly features with VSA (Very Special Arts)
and services offering discounts respect to energy, lighting, Massachusetts
to cardholders, including and water supplies. The organi 89 South St. Map 2 D5. Tel (617)
hotels, hostels, museums, zation Boston Green Tourism 3507713. ∑ vsamass.org
tours, attractions, restaurants, aims to guide visitors toward
and theaters. The Student greencertified hotels, Traveling on a Budget
Advantage Card is a similar restaurants, and shops, and International Student
card available to all American the whole “green movement” Identity Card (I.S.I.C.)
undergraduates. has spread throughout the ∑ isic.org
city’s economic landscape.
Student Advantage
Thousands of college ∑ studentadvantage.com
students help boost the area’s
environmental causes, as do the Senior Travelers
passionate masses that make a
living off of the region’s seacoast American Association of
and farms, while selling their Retired Persons (A.A.R.P.)
Tel (888) 6872277. ∑ aarp.org
wares at community farmers’
International Student Identity Card, markets or familyowned shops. Road Scholar
recognized student I.D. in America Seasonal farmers’ markets pop Tel (800) 4545768.
up everywhere, from small town ∑ roadscholar.org
Senior Travelers parks to Boston’s City Hall Plaza
Responsible Tourism
Anyone over the age of 65 is (see p64). The best way to check
eligible for various discounts when and where the next event Boston Green Tourism
with proof of age. Contact will be is to consult www. ∑ bostongreentourism.org
the American Association of massfarmers markets.org. For
Retired Persons for further a permanent destination, the Useful Websites
information. Also the interna familyrun Wilson Farm (www. Boston Magazine
tional senior travel organization wilson farm.com) has been ∑ bostonmagazine.com
Road Scholar, offers group luring visitors to Lexington
Boston.com
vacations, courses and (see p121) for its fresh apples,
∑ boston.com
events in Boston. corn, and pumpkin since 1884.
Personal Security and Health If you have your medical

insurance properly arranged,
Boston is one of the U.S.’s safest cities and its low crime rate you need not worry about
reflects its visitor-friendly environment. This has made its medical costs. Depending on
police force and community relations programs models the limitations of your insur-
ance, it is better to avoid the
for other American cities. Nonetheless, it is still prudent overcrowded city-owned
to take a few simple precautions and to keep to the tourist hospitals listed in the phone
areas. The main sights are all located in safe parts of the book Blue Pages, and opt
city with lots of people and where serious crime is rare. instead for one of the private
If you are unfortunate enough to be taken ill during your hospitals listed in the Yellow
Pages. Alternatively, ask at your
visit, healthcare in Boston is world-class. This does not
hotel desk or at the nearest
come cheaply, however, and it is recommended to have pharmacy for information
adequate insurance coverage before you travel. on your nearest hospital. For
dental referrals contact the
Massachusetts Dental Society.
Law Enforcement before you set off. Avoid You can also ask your hotel to call
and Police wearing expensive jewelry, a doctor or dentist to visit you.
The most visible and carry your camera If you lose your credit cards,
uniformed law or camcorder securely. most card companies, for
enforcement personnel Only carry small example American Express,
in Boston are the amounts of cash; have toll-free numbers for
National Park Service credit cards are the reporting a loss or theft.
(or Boston Park Service) most secure option.
rangers, usually dressed Before you leave
in olive green or khaki, home, take a photo- Lost Property
and the members of the copy of all important Although the chances of
Boston Police Department documents, including retrieving lost property are
(BPD), dressed in blue. your passport and visa, slim, you should report all
You will also see City and keep them and any stolen items to the police. Use
Parking and Traffic officers, other valuables in your the Police Non-Emergency
who deal exclusively hotel safe. Keep an eye Line. Make sure you keep a
with traffic violations. on your belongings at copy of the police report, which
Should you encounter all times, whether you will need for your insurance
any trouble as a visitor, checking into or out claim. In case of loss, it is useful
approach any of the Boston police of the hotel, waiting to have a list of your valuables’
blue-uniformed BPD officer at the airport, or sitting serial numbers or a photocopy
officers who regularly in a bar or restaurant. of any relevant documents or
patrol the city streets. receipts as proof of possession.
Park rangers can often This should be kept separately.
help with directions and Emergencies It is also useful to try and
general information. If you are involved in a medical remember the taxi companies
If you need to report a emergency, go to a hospital or bus routes you use, as it
crime, call the Boston Police emergency room. Should you might make it easier to retrieve
non-emergency line or need an ambulance, call 911 lost items. If your passport is
call 911 in an emergency. (toll-free) and one will be sent. lost or stolen, get in touch
Also call 911 for police or with your country’s embassy
fire department assistance. or consulate immediately.
What to be Aware of
Serious crime is rarely
witnessed in the main
sightseeing areas of Boston.
However, avoid wandering
into areas that are off the
beaten track, during the day
or at night. Police officers
regularly patrol the tourist
areas, but it is still advisable
to use common sense, and to
stay alert. Try not to advertise
the fact that you are a visitor;
prepare the day’s itinerary in
advance, and study your map Mounted Boston Park Service ranger, Copley Square
Hospital (both from an upset stomach to

private). Regardless an allergy.
of one’s insurance Those needing dental assis-
situation, hospital tance should check first to see
Fire engine emergency rooms are if their travel insurance covers
required to treat all dental aid; like emergency
patients; however, medical fees, unforeseen
waiting times can dentist visits can break the
reach several hours bank. A less expensive option
and costs can be for those without coverage is
exorbitant. The to visit a clinic such as the
Massachusetts Tufts University School of
Ambulance General Hospital Dental Medicine where
also maintains an practicing students work.
International Patient
Center for those in
need of interpreting Travel Insurance
services, as well as Travel insurance is not
dedicated housing compulsory but strongly
and financial recommended when traveling
Police car
arrangements. to the U.S. It is important to
Plan in advance: have insurance for emergency
Hospitals and if you take medication, bring medical and dental care,
Pharmacies a back-up supply with which can be expensive, even
Forming one of the country’s you. However, if you need in city-owned hospitals and
most renowned medical a prescription dispensed, clinics. Even with coverage
communities, Boston’s there are plenty of pharmacies you may have to pay for
hospitals are primarily (drugstores) in and around the services, then claim
clustered around the Fenway the city, some staying open reimbursement from your
and near Beacon Hill, with 24 hours a day. Ask your hotel insurance company.
several other facilities dotted for the nearest one. CVS In addition, it is advisable
around the city. Patients come Pharmacy is a popular chain to make sure your personal
from all over the world to of drugstores. The larger property is insured and to
seek treatment at legendary pharmacies, such as CVS, obtain coverage for lost or
institutions like Children’s can also be a helpful resource stolen baggage, travel
Hospital Boston and for those with basic medical documents, and accidental
Massachusetts General questions and concerns, death or injury.
DIRECTORY
Emergencies Consulates United Kingdom 35 White St., Cambridge.
1 Memorial Drive, Tel (617) 876-5519.
American Express Australia (Open 24 hours.)
Cambridge.
Tel (212) 758-6510. 150 East 42nd St., 34th
Tel (617) 245-4500. Massachusetts
∑ americanexpress.com floor, New York, NY 10017.
∑ gov.uk/government/ General Hospital
Tel (212) 351-6500.
Dental Referrals world/organisations/ 50 Blossom St.
∑ australianyc.org
Tel (800) 342-8747. british-consulate- Map 1 B3.
∑ massdental.org Canada general-boston Tel (617) 726-2000.
3 Copley Place. Map 3 C3. ∑ massgeneral.org
Medical Referrals
Tel (781) 893-4610 or
Tel (617) 262-3760. Hospitals and
∑ boston.gc.ca Pharmacies MGH International
(800) 322-2303. Patient Center
Police, Fire, Medical Ireland Children’s Hospital 55 Fruit St., Blake 180.
(all emergencies) 535 Boylston St. Map 1 B3.
Boston
Tel 911 (toll-free). Map 3 C2. Tel (617) 726-2787.
300 Longwood Ave.
Tel (617) 267-9330. ∑ massgeneral.org/
Tel (617) 355-6000.
Lost Property ∑ dfa.ie/irish- international
consulate/boston ∑ childrenshospital.org
Police Non- Tufts University
Emergency Line New Zealand CVS Pharmacy School of Dental
Tel Boston 37 Observatory Circle, NW 587 Boylston St. Map 3 C2. Medicine
(617) 343-4200. Washington, DC 20008. Tel (617) 437-8414. 1 Kneeland St. Map 4 F2.
Tel Cambridge Tel (202) 328-4800. (Store and pharmacy Tel (617) 636-6828.
(617) 349-3300. ∑ nzembassy.com open 24 hours.) ∑ dental.tufts.edu
Banking and Currency Credit Cards and

Debit Cards
Throughout Boston there are various places to access and American Express, VISA,
exchange your money, from the numerous banks and ATMs MasterCard, Diner’s Club, and
to the foreign currency exchanges. The most important the Discover Card, as well as
most debit cards, are accepted
things to remember are not to carry all your money and almost everywhere in Boston,
credit cards with you at one time, and to be aware that from theaters and hotels to
most banks and currency exchanges are closed on Sundays. restaurants and shops.
Besides being a much safer
alternative to carrying a lot of
shopping districts – may cash, credit and debit cards
have extended opening offer some useful additional
hours. Among the best-known benefits, such as insurance on
companies are American your purchases and access to
Express Travel Service and the daily exchange rate. They
Travelex Currency Services, are also essential if you want
both of which have several to reserve a hotel or book a
branches in and around rental car. Credit cards can also
Boston. Most currency be useful in emergencies when
exchanges charge a fee or cash may not be readily available.
commission, so it is worth Before traveling it would
One of Bank of America’s many branches looking around to get the be wise to phone your card
in Boston best value rates. Hotels may provider and inform them
also exchange money, but that you will be abroad, or you
Banking and Currency their fees will usually be risk finding that your card gets
Exchange much more expensive. blocked when you start using
Boston has branches of it in Boston.
numerous national banking
ATMs
chains, including Bank of DIRECTORY
America, Citizens Bank, and ATMs (cash machines) can
TD Bank. Most banks are open be found throughout Boston. Banking and
Monday through Friday from They are usually located near Currency Exchange
9am to 5pm, although some the entrance to banks, and American Express
may open earlier and close later. sometimes inside convenience Travel Service
Most banks also open Saturday stores and supermarkets. The 155 Federal St.
mornings from 9am to noon most widely accepted types Map 2 D4.
or 1pm. All banks of bank cards include Tel (617) 439-4400.
are closed on Cirrus, Plus, NYCE,
Bank of America
Sundays and and some credit
100 Federal St.
Federal holidays cards such as VISA Map 2 D4.
(see p39). and MasterCard. Tel (617) 434-3412.
Always ask if Note that a fee ∑ bankofamerica.com
there are any may be levied
special fees or on your cash Citizens Bank
commission charges withdrawal 73 Tremont St.
Map 1 C5.
before you make your depending on
Tel (617) 422-8295.
transaction. At most American Express the bank. Before
∑ citizensbank.com
banks, traveler’s checks charge cards you travel, ensure
in U.S. dollars can be you check with TD Bank
cashed with any form of photo your bank which machines 579 Boylston St.
identification, although a your card can access and Map 1 A5.
passport is usually required the various fees charged. Tel (617) 266-0740.
if you want to exchange any To minimize the risk of ∑ tdbank.com
foreign money. Foreign currency robbery, always be aware of Travelex Currency Services
exchange is available at the your surroundings and the Logan Airport, Terminal E.
main branches of large banks, people around you when Tel (617) 567-1030.
which often have a separate using an ATM. Avoid using ∑ travelex.com
dedicated area or teller window ATMs in isolated areas. Make
for foreign exchange. sure you shield your PIN and,
Foreign currency exchanges if available, use a machine
are generally open weekdays located within a bank. Be
from 9am to 5pm, but some – careful when removing your
especially those in busy card from the machine.
Communications and Media Newspapers and

Magazines
Boston’s communications infrastructure is modern and well The most widely read news
developed. Public payphones can still be found on some paper in the Boston area is The
streets and in hotel lobbies. Visitors will find the city is well Boston Globe (see p158), which
is thought of as one of the best
supplied with cell phone stores, Internet cafés, and public newspapers in the U.S. The
access to computers and Wi-Fi. News is readily available from other widely available local daily
Boston’s many television and radio stations, newspapers, and is the Boston Herald tabloid
magazines, and the postal service is quick and efficient – (www.bostonherald.com). The
whether you are sending mail within the U.S. or abroad. Thursday and Friday editions
of The Boston Globe, and Boston
Magazine (see p158), published
Telephones phones require a chip or need monthly, contain listings of
Public telephones are found on to be unlocked for international entertainment and cultural
some street corners and in usage, while others carry hefty events in Boston.
many hotels. Most accept coins roaming charges. Renting a cell
as well as phonecards, which phone while in America (try Cell
can be purchased at gas Hire) is an attractive, and often Television and Radio
stations, convenience stores, cheaper, option for many The Boston media market is
and newsstands. Local calls cost international visitors. highly competitive. Major
50 cents to $1 from payphones; network television stations
longdistance call rates vary. All include CBS (channel 4), ABC
numbers with a 1800, 866, 877, Area Codes (channel 5), NBC (channel 7),
or 888 prefix, however, are free Central Boston’s area codes are and Fox (channel 25). Public
of charge. Direct calls can also 617 and 857; include this when television station PBS is on
be made from hotel rooms but dialing local calls. If dialing out channel 2. Popular radio
usually carry hefty surcharges. of the local area (but within the stations include NPR (National
Unless you are using your own U.S. or Canada) dial 1, then Public Radio) on WBUR (90.9
international telephone card, it the area code. FM), KISS108 (107.9 FM),
is cheaper to use the payphone For international calls, dial WCRB (99.5 FM) for classical
in the lobby. 011, then the country code, music, and WMJX (106.7 FM)
For directory assistance, dial the area code (minus the first 0), for easy listening.
411 (local) or 00 (international); and the local number.
for operator assistance, dial 0 DIRECTORY
(local) or 01 (international.) All
operatorassisted calls carry Internet and Email Cell Phones
a surcharge. For emergency From neighborhood coffee AT&T
services (police, fire, or shops and hotel lobbies to ∑ att.com
ambulance) call 911. parks, there are WiFi hotspots
all over the city. Those traveling Cell Hire
without their computers or ∑ cellhire.com
Cell Phones Internetenabled devices can
In America, there are several cell visit a library – Boston Public
Internet and Email
phone systems (AT&T is one of Library’s main branch has Boston Public Library
the largest). Check with your several Internet terminals for 700 Boylston St.
service provider to learn about public use – or an Internet café. Map 3 C2.
your options when abroad. Some ∑ bpl.org
Postal Service Post Offices

Post offices are open from 9am Financial District
to 5pm, Monday through Friday, 31 Milk St.
and most are also open Saturday Map 2 D4.
from 9am to noon. They close on Tel (617) 4821956.
Sundays and for all Federal holidays.
If the correct postage is North End
217 Hanover St.
attached, letters and parcels
Map 2 E2.
of less than 13 oz (370 g) can Tel (617) 7236397.
be put in any blue mailbox. Pick ∑ usps.gov
up times are written inside the
lid. Always use a zip code to
ensure delivery, and send all
overseas mail by airmail to
Boston post office, Charles Street avoid long delays.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Arriving in Boston is fairly easy. The city is South Station, as do bus carriers. From here,
served by Logan International Airport as well the subway, known as the “T,” connects to
as by the smaller satellites in Manchester, NH, almost every part of the city. Boston also
and near Providence, RI, which are both makes an ideal base from which to take day or
located within 50 miles (80 km) of the city weekend trips to the numerous places of
center. Amtrak trains come into Boston’s interest throughout the New England area.
Arriving by Air
Situated in East Boston, Logan
International Airport is the
major airport serving Boston
and the surrounding area,
although some international
charter flights and several
domestic carriers use the
smaller and less crowded
Manchester New Hampshire
Airport and T.F. Green Airport
in Warwick, Rhode Island. Both
are a bus ride of around an
hour from Boston.
Boston is served by almost
all North American airlines and
by most international airlines,
either directly or in partnership Control Tower at Boston’s Logan International Airport
with U.S. carriers. Often the
least expensive flights, espe take 30 minutes or more, with Airfares
cially between continental much of the trip spent in For cheap air fares, search
Europe and Boston, require bumpertobumper traffic. online on websites such as
making a connection in New The least expensive means www.lastminute.com and www.
York. There are frequent non of getting from the airport expedia.com. The more you shop
stop flights available between to downtown Boston is via around, the better deal you will
Boston and the United the M.B.T.A. subway (see get, and it is worth taking the
Kingdom and Ireland on U.S. pp182–3) on the Silver Line time to do some research. For
carriers, as well as British to South Station. This takes inexpensive consolidated tickets,
Airways and Aer Lingus. 18–25 minutes. There are contact Kayak.com online or
Logan International lies also bus services that run give AirlineConsolidator.com
within Boston city limits on between the airport and a try. The easiest way to find the
a peninsula across the inner Boston’s suburbs. Arguably the best fare is to use the website
harbor from the central city. most scenic approach into CheapTickets.com.
Harbor tunnel crossings tend to Boston is the Boston Water High season runs from June to
act as a bottleneck, which slows Taxi, with stops at Logan August, as well as around Easter
taxi services between the air Airport, and Central and Long and Christmas, when flights are
port and downtown. At busy wharves. The journey takes at their most expensive. Travelers
times, a taxi ride ($20–30) can about 20–25 minutes. should also be aware of price
hikes when scheduling a visit
around large events like the
Boston Marathon (see p36) and
university commencement
ceremonies. May, September,
and October are generally less
expensive, and any other time
of the year is considered off
peak. Flights are usually least
expensive for travel from Tuesday
to Thursday. APEX tickets, usually
the best deal, must be booked a
few weeks in advance. However,
note that these tickets must
City Water Taxi, running from Logan Airport to Central and Long wharves include a Saturday night.
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N  181
Package Deals
DIRECTORY
Boston packages are some-
times available in the U.S. as Arriving by Air
part of a fall foliage bus tour Boston Water Taxi
or through the AAA (American Tel (617) 227-4320.
Automobile Association; ∑ bostonharborcruises.com
see p185). Several airlines
arrange packages including Logan International Airport
travel and lodging. Boston Amtrak train waiting to depart from East Boston, Massachusetts.
Tel (617) 561-1800 or (800)
hotels generally post their Boston’s South Station
23-LOGAN.
special event packages on
∑ massport.com/logan
the website of the Greater Station. A high-speed service
Boston Convention and that takes 3 hours is also avail- Manchester New
Visitors Bureau (see p175). able but is more expensive. Hampshire Airport
The Amtrak service extends Tel (603) 624-6556.
north to Maine and south to ∑ flymanchester.com
Arriving by Car Philadelphia, Washington, D.C., T.F. Green Airport
Boston is not called “The Hub” and beyond. Warwick, Rhode Island.
for nothing, as most routes in Tel (401) 737-8222.
the northeast converge here. ∑ pvdairport.com
The principal routes from the Arriving by Bus
north are I-95 from the coast Although taking a bus is Airfares
and I-93 from northern New easily the slowest and usually
AirlineConsolidator.com
England. I-90 comes in from cheapest way to get to Boston, Tel (888) 468-5385.
the west as the Massachusetts it need not be unpleasant. ∑ airlineconsolidator.com
Turnpike. I-93 approaches Greyhound Bus Lines and Peter
from the south as Pan Trailways both serve CheapTickets.com
the Southeast the city of Boston Tel (312) 260-8100.
Expressway, while as long-distance ∑ cheaptickets.com
I-95, formerly carriers, sharing Kayak.com
known as Rte Greyhound Bus quarters at the South Tel (855) 529-2501.
128, circumvents Lines logo Station bus terminal. ∑ kayak.com
Boston. Exits from the Both offer routes
roadway to parts of downtown around the country and pro- Arriving by Train
come up quickly, so check vide discounts for children, Amtrak
your exit number in advance. senior citizens, and U.S. military South Station, 700 Atlantic Ave.
personnel on active duty. Both Map 2 D5.
also offer bargain excursion Tel (800) 872-7245.
Arriving by Train tickets for unlimited travel ∑ amtrak.com
A train service between New within a certain time period
York and Boston via coastal for a single fixed rate. Arriving by Bus
Connecticut and Rhode Island Discount carriers include
is provided by Amtrak. Con- the modern BoltBus and BoltBus
South Station, 700 Atlantic Ave.
ventional train services take MegaBus, as well as several
Map 2 D5.
4–5 hours, and arrive at and no-frills companies that depart
Tel (877) 265-8287.
depart from Boston’s South from Boston’s Chinatown. ∑ boltbus.com
Greyhound Bus Lines

Map 2 D5.
Tel (617) 526-1800 or
(800) 231-2222.
∑ greyhound.com
MegaBus
Map 2 D5.
Tel (877) 462-6342.
∑ megabus.com
Peter Pan Trailways

Map 2 D5.
Tel (800) 343-9999.
∑ peterpanbus.com
Main concourse of Boston’s South Station
Getting Around Boston There are five lines: the Red Line
runs from south of the city to
Public transportation in Boston and Cambridge is very Cambridge, and the Green Line
good. In fact, it is considerably easier to get around by public from the Museum of Science
transportation than by driving, with the added benefit of not westward into the suburbs.
The Blue Line begins near
having to find a parking space. All major attractions in the city Government Center and goes to
are accessible on the subway, by bus, or by taxi. The central Logan Airport and on to Revere,
sections of the city are also extremely easy to navigate on foot. while the Orange Line links the
northern suburbs to southwest
Boston. The Silver Line, a surface
bus, runs from Roxbury to Logan
Airport via South Station. Maps
of the system are available at
the Downtown Crossing
M.B.T.A. station.
Admission to subway stations is
M.B.T.A. commuter bus, with distinctive yellow paintwork via turnstiles into which you insert
a paper Charlie ticket or touch
Green Travel websites for Boston Magazine your plastic CharlieCard on the
Boston’s moniker of “America’s and The Boston Globe (see p158). reader. Day or week LinkPasses
Walking City” hints at how Most of Boston is laid out for unlimited travel can be
easy it is to tour the city in this “organically” rather than in the purchased at stations and Airport
environmentally friendly way. sort of strict grid found in many “T” stops, and can be loaded on
Those needing to cover some American cities. When trying to to Charlie tickets or CharlieCards.
serious ground can lean on orient yourself, it helps to think
one of the U.S.’s oldest public of Boston as enclaves of neigh
transportation systems. The borhoods around a few central M.B.T.A. Buses
M.B.T.A. has worked with the squares. In general, uphill from The bus system complements
Environmental Protection Boston Common is Beacon Hill, the subway system and in effect
Agency on projects like loco downhill is Downtown. Back Bay enlarges the entire transit
motive engine pollutioncontrol begins west of Arlington Street. network to cover more than
devices, while replacing its The North End sticks out from the 1,000 miles (1,600 km). However,
dieselpowered bus fleet with north side of Boston, while the buses are often crowded. The
natural gaspowered buses. Waterfront is literally that, where Your Bus M.B.T.A. app shows real
Visitors can reach almost any Boston meets the sea. time schedules linked to location.
where in the metro area – from Two useful routes for sightseeing
the historic towns of Lexington are Charlestown–Haymarket,
and Concord to the Boston M.B.T.A. Subway and (from Haymarket, near Quincy
Harbor Islands – using public Trolley Cars Market, to Bunker Hill) and
transportation. The Boston “T”’s Boston’s subway system is the Harvard–Dudley (from Harvard
own website offers public transit oldest in North America, but it Square via Massachusetts
and walking has been vastly Avenue, through Back Bay and
directions to just expanded and the South End, to Dudley Square
about anywhere modernized in Roxbury). Cash, a Charlie
in the city. The since the first ticket, or a plastic CharlieCard
17mile (27km) cars rolled is required for the fare.
Esplanade trail between Park
along the Street and
Charles River Boylston Street Walking in Boston
(where you can Charlie Card, valid on Boston’s in 1897. The Boston is considered North
rent canoes and public transit network street trolley America’s premier walking
kayaks) and the system began city – partly because it is so
Minuteman Bikeway (see p164) in 1846 with trolleys drawn compact, and partly because
offer ample oppor tunities for along tracks by horses. In 1889, virtually all streets are flanked
bikers, joggers, and walkers. the system was electrified. by sidewalks. It is nonetheless
Combined, the subway and essential to wear comfortable
trolley lines are known as the walking shoes with adequate
Finding Your Way “T.” The “T” operates 5–12:45am cushioning and good support.
The Greater Boston Convention Monday through Saturday, Because Boston is principally
and Visitors Bureau (see p175) and 6–12:45am Sunday. Week a city of neighborhoods, it is
provides a helpful contact point. day service is officially every often simplest to use public
To find out about any upcoming 3–15 minutes; on weekends transportation to get to a
cultural events, check the it is less frequent. particular neighborhood,
and then to walk to soak up the company and arrange a pickup called HubWay (www.the
atmosphere. Walking also allows time and place. hubway.com). Cycling on the
you to see parts of the city that Rates are calculated by both highways is illegal, city streets
are impractical to explore by mileage and time, starting with a can be hazardous, and cycling
car because the streets are too standard “pickup” fee (around $3) on sidewalks is discouraged.
narrow – for example, Beacon when the meter starts running. Cycling is a fun way to see some
Hill, parts of the North End, Taxis in Boston and Cambridge of the outlying sights. Cycle
and Harvard Square. are generally more expensive shops and some newsstands
than in other U.S. cities. Taxis to carry the Boston Bike Map,
Logan International charge an which details trails and paths
airport-use fee (around $3), while across the metropolitan region.
those coming from Logan charge For more on cycling, see p164.
for the harbor tunnel toll (around
$7). Additional surcharges may
apply late at night. A full Guided Tours
schedule of fares should be Many city tours, including Old
posted inside the vehicle, along Town Trolley Tours and theme
with the driver’s photograph tours (such as “ghosts” or
and permit, the taxi’s permit “chocolate”), depart from the
Boston parkland, ideal for walking number, and directions for Visitor Information Center on
reporting complaints. Uber Boston Common. The Boston
Taxis coverage is very thorough in Duck Tours use an open-air
Taxis can be found at taxi stands Boston and Cambridge. amphibious vehicle that tours the
in tourist areas or be hailed on streets and navigates the Charles
the street. They may pick up fares River. Also, National Park Service
only in the city for which they Cycling rangers offer free walking tours of
are licensed – Cambridge taxis in Boston and Cambridge have Boston’s parks, the Freedom Trail
Cambridge, and Boston taxis in an extensive network of bike (see pp126–9), and the Black
Boston. It is possible to call a taxi paths, plus a bike rental system Heritage Trail (see p51).
The Boston “T”

and many downtown areas

allow parking in loading zones
on Sunday as well. Read
posted signs carefully. Parking
in a public lot or garage
can cost more than $10 per
hour or $40 per day, but it is
sometimes the only choice.
Valet parking is available at
some restaurants, hotels,
and malls for a fee.
In order to avoid traffic
congestion in the city center,
visitors may consider parking
near a “T” or bus stop in the
suburbs, and continuing
their journey into town by
Boston traffic by night with the Financial District in the background public transportation.
Driving Rules of the Road

Despite heavy traffic and The highway speed limit in Gas
restricted parking, having the Boston area is 55 mph Compared to much of the
your own vehicle in Boston (88 km/h) – much lower than rest of the world, gas (petrol)
can, at times, be an in many European countries. is less expensive in the U.S.
undeniable convenience. For In residential areas, the speed However, with the large
example, visiting some of the limit ranges from 20 to 35 mph engines that are often found
outlying sights of Boston (see (32–48 km/h). Near schools, in older American cars, any
Getting Out of Boston p185), it can be as low as 15 mph savings on fuel may be
which may be difficult to reach (24 km/h). It is important to partially offset. Gas comes in
by public transportation, is obey all signs or you will risk three grades: economy, super,
much easier with a car. Many getting a ticket. If you are and premium. There are many
U.S. visitors to the city arrive stopped by the police, be gas stations in and around
with their own cars, and courteous or you may face Boston, and they often have
overseas visitors can rent a larger fine. In addition, all self-service pumps. The gas
one quite easily. Even so, drivers are required to carry at these is often a few cents
driving in and around Boston a valid driver’s license and cheaper per gallon than at
requires patience, humor, registration documents for pumps with attendants.
reliable maps, good driving their vehicle.
skills, and the ability to read
the road swiftly and take Breakdowns
decisive actions. Parking In the unlucky event of a
Despite Boston’s Curbside parking is hard to breakdown, the best course
comparatively small size, its find at the most popular of action is to pull off the road
traffic can at times rival that locations, and during completely and put on
of much larger cities such as morning and afternoon the hazard lights to alert
Rome or New York. Boston rush hours curbside other drivers that you are
has far too many vehicles for parking is banned stationary. There are
its roads, and the city’s many altogether in some areas. emergency phones along
one-way streets can prove If you do manage to find some major interstate
confusing to everyone except a space on the street, be highways, but in other
the locals, who will honk at sure to feed the meter, situations, it is best to
befuddled visitors. Road or you might face a hefty contact breakdown
construction is ubiquitous, as fine. Vehicles parked services or even the
Boston constantly upgrades near fire hydrants, police from land or cell
underground utilities. Use the alleyways, in spaces phones. In the event
Street Finder (see pp188–91) reserved for the “Tow Zone” of a breakdown, drivers
or another good map (the handicapped, or at sign of rental cars should
best show the direction of overland “T” and bus contact the car rental
one-way streets) to help you stops may be towed away, company first. Members of
get around. Also avoid the and you will be able to retrieve the American Automobile
rush hours of 8–9:30am and them only at considerable Association (AAA) can contact
4–6pm and plan your route cost and inconvenience. the association to have their
in advance so you can con- Parking at meters is free on car towed to the nearest
centrate on traffic. Sundays and public holidays, service station to be repaired.
Car Rental the city with destinations from all over the world to see
You must be at least 21-years farther out, including historic breathtaking foliage. Again,
old with a valid driving license Salem and Gloucester, as well to see this region, a car is
(plus an international driver’s as the scenic waterfronts and necessary. Except in the very
license if from outside the U.S.) beaches of Newburyport and high season, traffic and parking
to rent a car. Drivers under 25 Cohasset. The commuter boat aren’t much of a problem
may be charged additional system also ferries passengers for these getaways.
fees. All rental agencies require from the city’s waterfront to Amtrak (see p181) provides
a credit card or a cash deposit. various stops along the South a scenic, albeit slower and
Collision and liability insurances Shore. Consider renting a bike usually more expensive, option
are recommended, but they (which you can bring along on when it comes to escaping
are sometimes offered free the bus, boat, or train) to north – the Downeaster service
with credit cards. Return the explore the historic sites and travels along Maine’s rugged
car with a full tank of gas to battlefields in Concord (see coastline up to inviting
avoid inflated agency fuel pp118–20) and Lexington (see Brunswick, and south to Rhode
prices. Save paying airport fees p121), or the area’s scenic Island and Connecticut.
by picking up and dropping coastline. Several bike shops
off your car downtown. offer daily rentals, and there
are a few companies, such
as Urban AdvenTours, that
Getting Out of Boston offer guided bike tours.
Boston holds enough treasures Many visitors to the Boston
to satisfy even the most finicky area also take advantage of
of tourists, but any visitor would seasonal excursions. For the
be wise to escape the city in summer, Cape Cod and its
order to appreciate the area’s islands (Martha’s Vineyard and
historical sites, stunning natural Nantucket), not to mention
beauty, and world-class dining Rhode Island’s stunning
and entertainment options. coastline, are within a 2-hour
Fortunately, most of this can be journey from the city. It’s
achieved without the use of a possible to reach these
car, as public transportation destinations by plane, bus, or
options abound. Cambridge boat, but visitors will have an
(see pp110–16) and Charlestown easier time using a rental car.
(see p117) are easily accessible When fall arrives, the areas
using the M.B.T.A.’s subway north of the city – extending up
and bus lines, and the M.B.T.A. into Vermont, New Hampshire, The picturesque, peaceful marina at
commuter rail service links and Maine – lure leaf-peepers Newburyport
DIRECTORY
Green Travel Uber Breakdowns Dollar
∑ uber.com Tel (800) 800-4000.
Charles River Canoe American ∑ dollar.com
& Kayak Yellow Cab Automobile
Kendall Sq., Cambridge. Cambridge. Enterprise
Association (AAA)
Tel (617) 492-0941. Tel (617) 547-3000. Tel (800) 736-8222.
125 High St., Boston. ∑ enterprise.com
∑ paddleboston.com
Guided Tours Tel (800) 222-4357 or
M.B.T.A. (617) 443-9300. Hertz
10 Park Plaza. Boston Duck Tours Tel (800) 654-3131.
∑ AAA.com
Tel (617) 222-3200. Prudential Center. ∑ hertz.com
∑ mbta.com Map 3 B3. Car Rental Thrifty Car Rental
Tel (617) 267-3825. Tel (800) 847-4389.
Taxis ∑ ducktours.com Alamo ∑ thrifty.com
National Park Service Tel (877) 222-9075.
Boston Cab
Tel (617) 242-5642. ∑ alamo.com Getting Out
Dispatch, Inc.
∑ nps.gov/bost of Boston
Tel (617) 262-2227. Avis
Old Town Tel (800) 331-1212. Urban AdvenTours
Checker Cab Co.
Trolley Tours ∑ avis.com 103 Atlantic Ave.
of Cambridge
Boston Common Visitors’ Map 2 E3.
Tel (617) 497-9000. Budget
Center. Map 1 C4. Tel (617) 670-0637.
Town Taxi Tel (617) 269-7010. Tel (800) 527-0700. ∑ urbanadven
Tel (617) 536-5000. ∑ trolleytours.com ∑ budget.com tours.com
186  boston street finder
boston street finder

the key map below shows the area of boston entertainment venues refer to the grid on the
covered by the Street Finder maps, which can maps. the first figure in the map reference
be found on the following pages only. Map indicates which Street Finder map to turn to
references, given throughout this guide, (1 to 4), and the letter and number that follow
for sights, restaurants, hotels, shops, and refer to the grid reference on that map.
Key
Major sight
Place of interest
Other building
North End
and the
Ferry boarding point
0 meters 1000
Waterfront Main railroad station
0 yards 1000
“T” station
Beacon Old Boston and
Hill and the Financial Bus station
West End District
Tourist information
Hospital with A&E unit
Police station
Chinatown
and the Church
Theater District
Railroad
Back Bay and Motorway
South End
Pedestrian street
Scale of Map Pages 1-4

0 meters 250
0 yards 250
A Blackstone Street 2 D3 Causeway Street 1 C2 Congress Street 2 D3

A Street 4 F4 Blagden Street 3 C3 Cedar Lane Way 1 B4 Cooper Street 2 D2
Acorn Street 1 B4 & 4 D1 Blossom Court 1 B2 Center Plaza 1 C3 Copley Place 3 C3
Adams Place 1 B3 Blossom Street 1 B2 Central Wharf 2 E3 Copley Square 3 C2
African Meeting Bond Street 4 D4 Chandler Street 4 D3 Copp’s Hill Burying Ground 2 D2
House 1 C3 Boston Athenaeum 1 C4 Charles Street 1 B2 Cortes Street 4 D3
Albany Street 4 D5 Boston Center for the Arts 4 D3 Charles Street Cotting Street 1 C2
Anderson Street 1 B3 Boston Globe Store 2 D4 & 4 F1 Meeting House 1 B4 Court Houses 1 C3
Appleton Street 3 C3 Boston Opera House 1 C5 & 4 E1 Charlesbank Park 1 A2 Court Street 2 D3
Arch Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 Boston Public Library 3 C2 Charlestown Avenue 1 A1 Coventry Street 3 A5
Arlington Street 1 A4 & 4 D1 Boston Tea Party Ship 2 E5 Charter Street 2 D2 Cross Street 2 D3
Ash Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 Bosworth Street 1 C4 & 4 F1 Chatham Street 2 D3 Cross Street 2 E3
Ash Street 4 E3 Bowdoin Street 1 C4 Chauncy Street 1 C5 & 4 F2 Cunard Street 3 A5
Athens Street 4 F4 Bowker Street 1 C3 Chester Park 3 B5 Custom House 2 E3
Atlantic Avenue 2 D5 & 4 F2 Boylston Street 1 A5 & 3 B3 Chestnut Street 1 A4 & 4 D1 Cutler Majestic
Avenue De Lafayette 1 C5 & 4 F2 Braddock Park 3 B3 Children’s Museum 2 E5 Theatre 1 C5 & 4 E2
Avery Street 1 C5 & 4 E2 Bradford Street 4 D4 Christian Science Center 3 B3
Branch Street 1 B4 & 4 D1 Christopher Columbus Park 2 E3
D
B Brattle Book Shop 1 C4 & 4 E1 Church Street 4 D2
Bridge Court 1 B3 City Square 1 C1 Dalton Street 3 A3
B Street 4 F5 Bristol Street 4 E4 Claremont Park 3 B4 Dartmouth Place 3 C3
Back Bay Station 3 C3 Broad Street 2 E4 Clarendon Street 1 A5 & 3 C1 Dartmouth Street 3 C2
Battery Street 2 E2 Broadway 4 F3 Clark Street 2 E2 Davenport Street 3 B5
Battery Wharf 2 E2 Bromfield Street 1 C4 & 4 F1 Clearway Street 3 A3 Dedham Street 4 D4
Batterymarch Street 2 D4 Burbank Street 3 A4 Clinton Street 2 D3 Derne Street 1 C3
Beach Street 1 C5 & 4 E2 Burke Street 3 A5 Clough House 2 E2 Devonshire Street 2 D5 & 4 F1
Beacon Street 1 A4 & 3 A2 Byron Street 1 B4 & 4 D1 Colonial Theatre 1 B5 & 4 E2 Dorchester Avenue 4 F5
Beaver Place 1 A4 & 4 D1 Columbia 2 D5 & 4 F2 Dwight Street 4 D4
Bedford Street 2 D5 & 4 F2
C Columbus Avenue 1 B5 & 3 A5
Bell Atlantic Building
Belvidere Street
2 D4
3 A3 Cambria Street 3 A3
Commercial Avenue
Commercial Street
1 A2
2 D1
E
Benton Street 3 A5 Cambridge Street 1 B3 Commercial Street 2 E3 East Street 2 D5 & 4 F2
Berkeley Street 1 A4 & 3 C1 Camden Street 3 B5 Commercial Wharf 2 E3 East Berkeley Street 4 D3
Blackstone Block 2 D3 Canal Street 2 D2 Commonwealth Avenue 3 B2 East Brookline Street 4 D5
Blackstone Square 3 C5 Cardinal O’Connell Way 1 B2 Concord Street 3 C5 East Canton Street 4 D5
boston street finder  187
East Concord Street 3 C5 I North Station 1 C2 South Charles Street 1 B5 & 4 E2

East Dedham Street 04 D5 North Street 2 D3 South Russell Street 1 B3
East Newton Street 3 C4 India Street 2 E3 North Street 2 E2 South Station 2 D5
East Rutland Street 4 D5 Industrial Park Road 1 B1 North Washington Street 2 D2 South Street 2 D5 & 4 F2
Eastern Avenue 2 E2 Institute of Contemporary Northampton Street 3 B5 Springfield Street 3 B5
Edgerly Road 3 A3 Art 3 A3 Northern Avenue 2 E5 St. Botolph Street 3 A4
Edinboro Street 2 D5 & 4 F2 Irving Street 1 B3 Northern Traffic Road 1 A2 St. Cecelia Street 3 A3
Eliot Street 1 B5 & 4 D2 Isabella Street 4 D3 Norway Street 3 A3 St. Charles Street 4 D3
Embankment Road 1 A4 St. George Street 4 D5
Endicott Street 2 D2 J O St. Germain Street
St. James Avenue
3 A3
1 A5 & 3 C2
Essex Street 1 C5 & 4 E2
J. F. K. Federal Office Building 2 D3 Oak Street 4 E3 St. Paul’s Cathedral 1 C4 & 4 E1
Exchange Place 2 D4
Jacob Wirth’s 1 B5 & 4 E2 Old City Hall 2 D4 St. Stephen Street 3 A4
Exeter Street 3 B2
James J. Storrow Old Colony Avenue 4 F5 St. Stephen’s Church 2 E2
Memorial Drive 3 A2 Old Granary Burying Stanhope Street 4 D3
F John Hancock Tower 3 C2 Ground 1 C4 & 4 E1 Staniford Street 1 C3
Joy Street 1 C3 Old North Church 2 E2 State Street 2 D3
Fairfield Street 3 B2
Old Northern Avenue 2 E4 Stillings Street 2 F5
Faneuil Hall 2 D3
Farnsworth Street 2 E5 K Old South Meeting
House 2 D4 & 4 F1
Stillman Street
Stuart Street
2 D2
1 B5 & 4 D2
Fayette Street 4 D3 Keany Square 2 D2 Old State House 2 D4 Summer Street 2 D5 & 4 F1
Federal Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 Kendall Street 3 B5 Old West Church 1 C3 Sumner Street 2 F1
Filene’s Department King’s Chapel and Oliver Street 2 D4 Symphony Hall 3 A4
Store 1 C4 & 4 F1 Burying Ground 1 C4 Omni Parker House 1 C4 & 4 F1 Symphony Road 3 A4
First Baptist Church 1 A5 & 3 C2 Kingston Street 2 D5 & 4 F2 Otis Place 1 A4 & 4 D1
Fleet Street 2 E2
Foodmart Road 4 E5
Kneeland Street 4 F2 Otis Street
Oxford Street
2 D5 & 4 F1
1 C5 & 4 F2
T
Knox Street 4 D3
Foster Street 2 D2 Taylor Street 4 D4
Foundry Street
Franklin Square
4 F4
4 D5
L P TD Bank North Garden
Temple Place
1 C2
1 C4 & 4 E1
Franklin Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 Lagrange Street 1 C5 & 4 E2 Parmenter Street 2 D2 Temple Street 1 C3
Friend Street 1 C2 Lancaster St 1 C2 Park Place 1 C4 & 4 E1 Thatcher Street 2 D2
Frog Pond 1 B4 & 4 E1 Lawrence Street 4 D3 Park Plaza 1 B5 & 4 D2 Thayer Street 4 E4
Park Square 1 B5 & 4 E2 Tileston Street 2 E2
Fruit Street 1 B3 Lechmere Square 1 A1
Park Street 1 C4 & 4 E1 Traveler Street 4 E4
Fulton Street 2 E3 Lenox Street 3 B5
Park Street Church 1 C4 & 4 E1 Traverse Street 1 C2
Lewis Wharf 2 E3 Parkman Street 1 B3
Tremont Street 1 C5, 3 A5,
G Lime Street
Lincoln Place
1 A4 & 4 D1
3 C5
Paul Place
Paul Revere House
4 D3
2 E2
& 4 E2
Gainsborough Street 3 A4 Lincoln Street 2 D5 & 4 F2 Paul Revere Mall 2 E2 Trinity Church 1 A5 & 3 C2
Garden Court 2 E2 Lincoln Wharf 2 E2 Pearl Street 2 D4 Trinity Place 3 C2
Lombard Place 2 D2 Pemberton Square 1 C3 Tufts Street 2 D5 & 4 F2
Garden Street 1 B3
Long Wharf 2 E3 Pembroke Street 3 C4 Tyler Street 1 C5 & 4 E3
Garrison Street 3 B3
Gibson House Louisburg Square 1 B4 Perry Street 4 E4
Museum 1 A4 & 3 C1 Lowell Street 1 C2 Phillips Street
Piedmont Street
1 B3
4 D2
U
Gloucester Street 3 A2 Lynde Street 1 C3
Lynn Street 2 D2 Pinckney Street 1 B3 Union Park 4 D4
Gold Street 4 F4 Pine Street 4 E3 Union Park Street 4 D4
Government Center 2 D3 Pittsburgh Street 2 F5 Union Street 2 D3
Gray Street 4 D3 M Plympton Street 4 D5 Union Wharf 2 E2
Greenwich Park 3 B4 Portland Street 1 C2 Unity Street 2 E2
Malden Street 4 D5 Post Office Square 2 D4
Greenwich Street 3 B5 Margaret Street 2 D2 Upton Street 4 D4
Gridley Street 2 D4 Prince Street 2 D2
Margin Street 2 D2 Utica Street 2 D5 & 4 F2
Groton Street 4 E4 Providence Street 1 A5 & 3 C2
Marginal Road 4 E3 Prudential Center 3 B3
Grove Street 1 B3 Marlborough Street
Martha Road
3 A2
1 B2
Purchase Street 2 D5 W
H Mason Street
Massachusetts Avenue
1 C5 & 4 E1
3 A2 Q
W. E. Mullins Way
Walnut Street
4 E3
1 B4 & 4 E1
Hamilton Place 1 C4 & 4 E1 Massachusetts State House 1 C4 Waltham Street 4 D4
Massachusetts State Transpor- Quincy Market 2 D3 Wang Center for the
Hammond Street 3 B5
tation Building 1 B5 & 4 E2 Performing Arts 4 E2
Hancock Street 1 C3
Hanover Avenue 2 E2 Melrose Street 4 D3 R Wareham Street
Warrenton Street
4 D5
1 B5 & 4 E2
Hanover Street 2 D3 Merrimac Street 1 C2
Randolph Street 4 E4 Warren Avenue 3 C4
Hanson Street 4 D4 Milford Street 4 D4 Warwick Street 3 B5
Milk Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 Revere Street 1 B3
Harcourt Street 3 B3 Washington Street 1 C5 & 3 C5
Monsignor Reynolds Way 4 D4 Richmond Street 2 E3 Water Street 2 D1
Harris Street 2 E2
Harrison Avenue 1 C5 & 3 C5 Montgomery Street 3 C4 Ridgeway Lane 1 C3 Water Street 2 D4 & 4 F1
Harrison Gray Otis House 1 C3 Moon Street 2 E2 River Street 1 B4 & 4 D1 Wellington Street 3 B4
Mount Vernon Street 1 A4 & 4 D1 Rowes Wharf 2 E4 West Street 1 C4 & 4 E1
Harvard Street 4 E2
Museum of Science 1 A2 Rutland Street 3 C4 West 2nd Street 4 F4
Hatch Shell 1 A4 & 3 C1 West 4th Street 4 F4
Myrtle Street 1 B3
Haverhill Street 2 D2 West 5th Street 4 F4
Haviland Street 3 A3 S West 6th Street 4 F5
Hawes Street 2 D4 N West 7th Street 4 F5
Hawkins Street 1 C3 Salem Street 2 D2 West Brookline Street 3 C4
Hayden Planetarium 1 B2 Nashua Street 1 C2 Sargents Wharf 2 E2 West Canton Street 3 C3
Hemenway Street 3 A3 Nassau Street 4 E3 Savoy Street 4 E4 West Cedar Street 1 B4
Hepzibah Swan New City Hall 2 D3 School Street 2 D4 & 4 F1 West Newton Street 3 B3
New England Aquarium 2 E3 Science Park 1 A2 West Rutland Square 3 B4
Houses 1 B4 & 4 E1
New Street 2 F1 Westland Avenue 3 A4
Herald Street 4 D3 Scotia Street 3 A3
Widett Circle 4 E5
Hereford Street 3 A2 New Sudbury Street 1 C3 Shawmut Avenue 3 C5 Winchester Street 4 D2
High Street 2 D5 & 4 F2 Newbury Street 1 A5 & 3 A3 Sheafe Street 2 D2 Winter Street 1 C4 & 4 E1
Holyoke Street 3 C3 Newland Street 3 C4 Shubert Theatre 1 C5 & 4 E2 Worcester Square 3 C5
Hoosac Pier 2 D1 Nichols House Museum 1 B4 Silver Street 4 F4 Worcester Street 3 C5
Hudson Street 4 F3 North Bennett Street 2 E2 Sleeper Street 2 E5
Hull Street
Huntington Avenue
2 D2
3 A4
North End Playground
North Grove Street
2 D1
1 B3
Snow Place
Snow Hill Street
2 D4 & 4 F1
2 D2
Y
Hynes Convention Center 3 B3 North Square 2 E2 Somerset Street 1 C4 Yarmouth Street 3 C3
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192  GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold American football 166, Back Bay and South End
refer to main entries 167 (cont.)
American Meteorological architecture 35
A Society 47 area map 91
Aalto, Alvar 111 American Revolution 22–3 Back Bay: Street-by-
Abbey, Edward 98–9 Boston Tea Party 77 Street map 92–3
Abiel Smith School 51 Concord 118–19 hotels 134–7
Abolition movement, Copp’s Hill Burying restaurants 146–8
slavery 25 Ground 72 Trinity Church 96–7
Academy of Music 89 Dorchester Heights Back Bay Fens 10, 105
Accessories shops 155 Monument 124 Baez, Joan 110
Accommodation 132–7 Freedom Trail walk Ball, Thomas 48
Adams, Abigail Smith 24 126–9 Ballet 38, 160–61
Adams, John 24, 33 Harvard Yard 112 Banking 178
Adams, John Quincy 24, Lexington 121 Banner, Peter 50
33 Liberty Tree 85 Bars 151, 162–3
Adams, Samuel Old North Church 23, 73 alcohol laws 138, 139,
Boston Tea Party 61, 77 American Unitarian 174
Faneuil Hall 65 Association 24 gay clubs and bars 163
grave 50 Andros, Sir Edmund 20, 21 opening hours 138
Massachusetts State Angell, George Thorndike tipping in 174
House 52 66–7 Bartholdi, Auguste 94
Paul Revere’s ride 23, 121 Annual Festival Betances Baseball 12, 27, 36, 166,
“Sons of Liberty” 22, 32 37 167
statue of 65 Annual Lantern Festival 36 Baselitz, Georg 115
Aeolian-Skinner Company Antiques Basketball 38, 166, 167
100 Ellis Memorial Antiques Bastille Day 37
African American Show 38 Bates, Katharine Lee 50
community shops 156, 157 “Battle Hymn of the
Abiel Smith School 51 Aquarium, New England Republic” 32, 61
authors 33 31, 78–9 Battles
Battle of Fort Wagner 25 children’s Boston 170 Bunker Hill (1775) 18, 22,
Black Heritage Trail 51 Great days in Boston 11, 129
Museum of African 12, 13 Fort Sumter (1861) 25
American History 51 Arboretum, Arnold 36, Fort Wagner (1861) 25
“New Guinea” 128 104–5 Lexington and Concord
“Underground Railroad” Architecture 34–5 (1775) 23, 118
25, 51 Area codes, telephones Saratoga (1777) 23
African Meeting House 25, 179 Bauhaus 35, 115
51 Arnold Arboretum 36, Bay Village 87
Agassiz, Louis 116 104–5 Beaches 164
Air travel 180, 181 Art see Museums and Carson Beach 124
Alcohol laws 138, 139, 174 galleries L Street Beach 124
Alcott, Bronson 120 Art Deco architecture 35 M Street Beach 124
Alcott, Louisa May 33 Arthur M. Sackler Museum “Sugar Bowl” beach 125
grave 120 (Cambridge) 114, 115 Beacon Hill and West End
Orchard House Arts and crafts see Crafts 12, 13, 43–55
(Concord) 120 Arts First (Cambridge) 36 architecture 28, 34
The Wayside (Concord) ATMs (cash machines) 178 area map 43
120 August Moon Festival 37 Black Heritage Trail 51
Algonquin tribe 19 Autumn in Boston 38 Boston Common and
Along the Battle Road Public Garden 13, 36,
(Rush) 118 B 48–9
Ambulances 176, 177 Baby-sitting services 168 Hidden Gardens of
American Federation of Back Bay and South End Beacon Hill 36
Labor (A.F.L.) 26 91–101 hotels 134–7
GENERAL INDEX  193
Beacon Hill and West End Boats and ships Boston Marathon (cont.)
(cont.) Boston Tea Party Ships terrorist attack 27
Massachusetts State and Museum 76–7 Boston Massacre (1770)
House 52–3 Charlestown Navy Yard 22, 63, 77
restaurants 142–3 13, 117, 129 Freedom Trail walk 127
Street-by-Street map Dragon Boat Festival 37 reenactment of 36
44–5 Hart Nautical Gallery 111 Boston Open Studios 38
Beacon Street 47 Head of the Charles Boston Opera House 85
Street-by-Street map 45 Regatta 38 Street-by-Street map 82
Beanpot Tournament 39 Long Wharf 76 Boston Police Strike (1919)
Beckmann, Max 115 rowing 167 26
Bed and breakfast (B&B) Swan Boats 49 Boston Pops Orchestra 36
133, 135–6 U.S.S. Constitution 13, Fourth of July Concert
Bell, Alexander Graham 33, 117, 129 and Fireworks 37, 94
67 water sports 164, 165 Boston Pride 37
Benjamin, Asher 34 Whale Watch 78 Boston Public Library 90,
African Meeting House 51 Bogart, Humphrey 88 98–9
Charles Street Meeting Bolt, Beranek and architecture 34
House 46 Newman 33 history 24, 25
Old West Church 54 Bond, Charles 88 Street-by-Street map 92
William Hickling Prescott Bookshops 156, 157 Boston Public Market 65
House 47 Boston International Boston Red Sox 27, 36
Benjamin Thompson & Antiquarian Book Fair 38 “Boston School” of artists
Associates 66 Brattle Book Shop 82, 85 108
La Berceuse (Van Gogh) Booth, John Wilkes 60 Boston Symphony
108 Boston Athenaeum 24, 51 Orchestra 11, 38
Berenson, Bernard 105 Boston Ballet Company 38, history 26, 32
Bergman, Ingrid 88 101 Boston Tea Party (1773) 22,
Berklee BeanTown Jazz Boston Brahmins 24, 25, 77
Festival 38 32, 47 Boston Tea Party Ships
Berklee Performance Boston Bruins 38 and Museum 76–7
Center 99 Boston Caribbean Carnival Liberty Tree 85
Berlin, Irving 86 37 Old South Meeting
Bernhardt, Sarah 88 Boston Center for the Arts House 10, 61
Bernini, Gian Lorenzo 101 reenactment of 39
clay models 114, 115 Boston City Hall 64 Boston University 26
Beuys, Joseph 115 Boston Common and Boston Wine Expo 39
Bicycling 164, 165, 183 Public Garden 36, 48–9 Boylston Street 98
The Big Dig 27, 65 Freedom Trail 126 Great days in Boston 10,
The Big Sail (Calder) 11, Great days in Boston 10, 12, 13
123 11, 12, 13 Street-by-Street map 92
Black Heritage Trail 51 Boston Fashion Week 38 Bradford, William 20
Black Masons 128 Boston Flower and Garden Bradstreet, Anne 33
Blackall, Clarence H. Show 36 Brahmins, Boston 24, 25,
Colonial Theatre 86 Boston Granite 32, 47
Metropolitan Theatre 88 architecture 34, 55 Brando, Marlon 89
Blackstone, William 21 Boston Harbor (Lane) 108 Brattle Book Shop 85
Blackstone Memorial Boston Harborfest 37 Street-by-Street map 82
Tablet 49 Boston International Breakdowns, cars 184, 185
Boston Common and Antiquarian Book Fair 38 Breakfasts 138
Public Garden 48 Boston Jewish Film Festival in hotels 132
Blackstone Block 64–5 38 Brewer Fountain 49
Blake, William 114 Boston Latin School (first Bridge, Lagoon 48
Blaschka, Leopold and public school) 20, 21, 127 Brimstone Corner 50
Rudolph 116 Boston Marathon 36, 167 Brinks Robbery (1950)
Blues music 162, 163 Copley Square plaque 98 74
Brooks, Phillips 96, 97 Cambridge (cont.) Charlestown 13, 117

Buckman Tavern hotels 134–6 Freedom Trail walk
(Lexington) 121 map 111 129
Budget travel 175 restaurants 148–9 Charlestown Navy Yard 13,
hotels 133, 137 Cambridge Carnival 38 117
see also Discounts Cambridge Common 110 architecture 34
Bulfinch, Charles 34, 55 Cambridge River Festival Freedom Trail walk 129
Beacon Hill 46 37 Chestnut Street
Bulfinch Pavilion and Carpenter Center for the architecture 34
Ether Dome 55 Visual Arts (Cambridge) Children 168–71, 175
Faneuil Hall 65 35, 113 aquariums, zoos, and
Federal Street Theater 89 Cars 184–5 parks 170
Harvard University 113 breakdowns 184, 185 Great days in Boston 11
Hepzibah Swan Houses driving to Boston 181 in hotels 133
47 fuel 184 museums 169
Massachusetts State hotel parking 132 in restaurants 139, 171
House 52, 53, 126 parking 184 shopping 171
Mount Vernon Street 46 rental 185 theater 170
Nichols House Museum rules of the road 184 tours and historical
47 Carson Beach 124 sights 168, 169
Otis House Museum 31, Carver, Governor John 20 Children’s Museum
54 Castle Island 125 11, 77
St. Paul’s Cathedral 84 Cathedral, St. Paul’s 82, 84 Chinatown and Theater
St. Stephen’s Church 71, see also Churches District 81–9
74 Causeway, Pleasure Bay area map 81
Bunker Hill, Battle of (1775) 125 Around Washington
18, 22, 129 Cell phones 179 Street: Street-by-Street
Bunker Hill Day 39 Cemeteries map 82–3
Bunker Hill Monument Central Burying Ground Chinatown 80, 86–7
(Charlestown) 13, 117, 49 History of Boston’s
129 Copp’s Hill Burying Theater District 89
Bunker Hill Weekend 37 Ground 70, 72, 128 hotels 134–7
Central Burying Ground King’s Chapel and Liberty Tree 85
49 Burying Ground 58, 60, restaurants 145–6
Burgoyne, General John 61 126 Chinese New Year 39
Burne-Jones, Edward 96, Old Granary Burying Christ Church (Cambridge)
97 Ground 50, 126 110
Burying Grounds see Sleepy Hollow Cemetery Christ Episcopal Church
Cemeteries (Concord) 120 see Old North Church
Busch-Reisinger Museum Center Plaza 64 Christian Science Center
(Cambridge) 114, 115 Central Burying Ground 49 100–101
Buses 181, 182 Channing, William Ellery Christmas 39, 46
Business hotels 133, 134 American Unitarian Christopher Columbus
Association 24 Park 10, 12, 13, 75
C statue of 49 Church of England 20
Cabot, Edward Clarke 51 Charles I, King of England Churches
Cabot, John 19 20 Christ Church
Cabot family 24, 32 Charles II, King of England (Cambridge) 110
Cafés 150, 151 20, 21 Christian Science Center
Calder, Alexander Charles Hayden 100–101
The Big Sail 11, 123 Planetarium 55 Church of the Covenant
Caldwell, Sarah 85 Charles River, Dragon Boat 95
Cambridge 102, 110–16 Festival 37 First Baptist Church 35,
Great days in Boston 11, Charles Street 12, 13, 46 93, 94–5
13 Street-by-Street map 44 King’s Chapel 10, 58, 60,
Harvard University Charles Street Meeting 126
museums 11, 114–16 House 46 Memorial Church
Harvard Yard 11, 112–13 Street-by-Street map 44 (Cambridge) 113
Churches (cont.) Constitution, U.S.S. David, Jacques-Louis 114

New Old South Church (Charlestown) 13, 117, Davis, Stuart 108
98 129 Debit cards 178
Old North Church 10, 12, Constitutional Convention Declaration of
13, 23, 36, 70, 73, 128 (1787) 24 Independence 23
Old West Church 54 Consulates 177 Degas, Edgar
Park Street Church 50, Continental Army (1775) Fogg Art Museum
126 54, 110 (Cambridge) 114
St. Paul’s Cathedral 82, Continental Congress Museum of Fine Arts,
84 (1774) 23 Boston 108
St. Stephen’s Church 71, Coolidge, Calvin 33 Dentists 176, 177
74 Cooperatives, antiques Department stores 152–3
Trinity Church 10, 34, 35, 156, 157 Dialing codes 179
93, 96–7 Copley, John Singleton Dickens, Charles 60
see also Meeting houses Copley Square 98 Dine Out Boston 37
Cinema 161 Museum of Fine Arts, Disabled travelers 174,
Boston Jewish Film Boston 108 175
Festival 38 Portrait of John Hancock entertainment venues
City Hall see New City Hall; 106 159
Old City Hall Copley Place 10, 13, 101 in hotels 133
Civil War 25, 26 Copley Square 10, 98 in restaurants 139
Shaw Memorial 49 Street-by-Street map 92 Discos 162, 163
Soldiers and Sailors Copp, William 72 Discounts
Monument 49 Copp’s Hill 72, 128 air travel 180, 181
Clayton & Bell 96 Copp’s Hill Burying cinema 161
Climate 37–9 Ground 72, 128 clothes shops 154–5
Clothes Street-by-Street map 70 discount stores 153
in restaurants 139 Cornwallis, General 23 entertainments 158
shopping 154–5 Cornwell, Dean in hotels 132
Clough, Ebenezer 72 Telephone Men and students and seniors 175
Clough House 70, 72 Women at Work 67 Dix, Dorothea 32
Clubs Cortereal, Miguel 19 Doctors 176
comedy clubs 163 CraftBoston Holiday 39 Dorchester Heights
gay clubs and bars 163 Crafts shops 157 Monument 124
nightclubs 162, 163 Crease, Thomas 61 Douglass, Frederick
Cobb, Henry 99 Credit cards 178 African Meeting House
Coconut Grove nightclub lost cards 176 51
fire (1942) 87 in restaurants 138 antislavery speeches 25
College sports 167 in shops 152 Dove, Arthur 108
Colonial Boston Crime 176 Downtown Crossing 84
Street-by-Street map 58–9 Curley, James Michael 27, Street-by-Street map 83
Colonial Theatre 11, 86 33 Dragon Boat Festival 37
Columbus, Christopher Beacon Street 47 Drinks see Food and drink
Christopher Columbus elected mayor 26 Drowne, Shem 65
Park 10, 12, 13, 75 L Street Bath House 124 Duckling Day Parade 36
statue of 46 Old City Hall 61 Dukakis, Michael 27
Columbus Day 39 Currency exchange 178 Durgin Park 10
parade 38 Custom House 66, 76 Dyer, Mary 21, 32
Comedy clubs 163 Cycling 164, 165, 183
Commonwealth Avenue Cyclorama 101 E
35, 95 Eakins, Thomas 108
Street-by-Street map D East India Company
93 Dalley, Matthew James 26 Boston Tea Party 22, 77
Communications 179 Dallin, Cyrus 74 Boston Tea Party Ship 76
Concord 118–20 Dance 38, 160–61 Eddy, Asa Gilbert 100
map 119 Dance at Bougival (Renoir) Eddy, Mary Baker 100
Concord Museum 119 107 Edes & Gill 72
Coney, John 108 Daumier, Honoré 114 Edgerton, Harold 111
Edward M. Kennedy Feininger, Lyonel 115 French, Daniel Chester

Institute for the U.S. Fenollosa, Ernest 109 Boston Public Library 98
Senate 27, 104 Fenway Park 12 grave 120
Electricity 175 history 26, 27 Minute Man statue 118
Ellis Memorial Antiques Festivals 36–9 French and Indian War
Show 38 Fiedler, Arthur 94 (1754) 21
Email 179 Fields, W.C. 88 Frog Pond
Emerald Necklace 10, Film 161 ice skating 38
105 Boston Jewish Film Fuller, Margaret 61
Emergencies 176, 177 Festival 38
Emerson, Ralph Waldo 24, Financial District see Old G
33 Boston and the Financial Galbraith, John Kenneth
Concord Museum 119 District 33
Emerson House Fire service 177 Galleries see Museums and
(Concord) 118 First Baptist Church 94–5 galleries
First Baptist Church 94 architecture 35 Gardens see Parks and
grave 120 Street-by-Street map 93 gardens
Old Corner Bookstore 61 First Night 39 Gardner, Cato 51
The Old Manse Fitness facilities 165 Gardner, Isabella Stewart
(Concord) 119 Fitzgerald, John F. “Honey 26
Omni Parker House 60 Fitz” museum 30, 105
Emerson House (Concord) elected mayor 26, 27 Garrison, William Lloyd
118 Old City Hall 61 abolition of slavery 25,
Emmanuel Church 95 Fogg Art Museum 32
Entertainment 158–63 (Cambridge) 114–15 The Liberator 25, 32
the arts 160–61 Folk music 162, 163 Museum of African
booking tickets Food and drink American History 51
158, 159 alcohol laws 138, 139, 174 Park Street Church 50
festivals 36–9 Boston Wine Expo 39 statue of 95
music and nightlife cafés and bars Gas (petrol) 184
162–3 150–51 Gay and lesbian
Epstein, Leslie 33 fast food 139 community
The Esplanade 94 The Flavors of Boston Boston Pride 37
Ether Monument 49 140–41 clubs and bars 163
Etheridge, Melissa 99 Scooper Bowl festival 37 Gehry, Frank 123
Etiquette, in restaurants What to drink 141 George III, King of England
139 see also Restaurants 72
Evacuation of Boston Ford, Henry 88 George Middleton House
(1776) 23 Fort Independence 125 51
Evacuation Day 39 Fort Sumter, Battle of George Washington
(1861) 25 statues 42, 48, 53
F Fort Wagner, Battle of Gershwin, George 89
Fall in Boston 38 (1861) 25 Gibson, Catherine
Faneuil, Peter 65, 127 Foster, Norman 106, 108 Hammond 94
grave 50 Fourth of July celebrations Gibson, Charles Hammond
Faneuil Hall 65, 127 37, 94 Jr. 94
Great days in Boston Franklin, Benjamin 50 Gibson House Museum 94
12, 13 Blackstone Block 65 architecture 35
history 25 statue of 61 Gift shops 157
Farragut, David Franklin Park 105 Gilbert and Sullivan 89
statue of 124 Franklin Park Zoo 104 Gilman, Arthur 95
Fashion shops 154–5 Free entertainment 159 Gloss, Kenneth 85
Fast food 139 Freedom Trail 12, 13 Golf 164, 165
Feast of Saints Cosma & walk 126–9 Gompers, Samuel 26
Damiano 38 Freemasons Gosnold, Bartholomew 19
Federal Street Theater 89 Scottish Rite Masonic Government Center 64
Federal style architecture Museum & Library Granary Burying Ground
34 (Lexington) 121 126
Grant, Cary 88 Hart Nautical Gallery Hidden Gardens of Beacon

Great Brinks Robbery (Cambridge) 111 Hill 36
(1950) 74 Hartt, Edmund Higginson, Major Henry
Great Fire of Boston (1872) grave 72 Lee 32
26 Harvard, John Historic New England 54
Greater Boston 103–21 Harvard University 21, Historic Preservation
Cambridge 110–16 112 Movement 61
Charlestown 117 John Harvard Mall Historical Society Houses
Concord 118–20 (Charlestown) 117 (Lexington) 121
hotels 134–7 statue of 112 History 19–27
The Emerald Necklace Harvard Art Museums Ho Chi Minh 32, 60
105 (Cambridge) 11, 13, Hockey 166, 167
Lexington 121 114–15 events 38, 39
maps 16–17, 103 Boston’s Best: Museums Holidays, public 39
Museum of Fine Arts, 30 Holmes, Oliver Wendell 24,
Boston 106–9 Harvard Medical School 55 32, 47
restaurants 148–9 Harvard Museum of Massachusetts State
traveling to 185 Natural History House 52
El Greco 108 (Cambridge) 116 Holmes Alley 51
Greek Revival architecture Harvard Square Holocaust Memorial 65
34 (Cambridge) 13, 110 Homer, Winslow 108, 114
Green travel 175, 182, 185 Harvard University Horse racing 167
Greenway see Rose (Cambridge) Hospitals 176, 177
Fitzgerald Kennedy architecture 34 Massachusetts General
Greenway Arnold Arboretum Hospital 55
Gropius, Walter 35, 115 104–5 Hostels 133, 137
Guided tours 183, 185 Harvard Yard 11, 112–13 Hotels 132–7
Gullager, Christian 73 history 20, 21, 26 B&B accommodation
Gyms 165 Harvard’s Hasty Pudding 133, 135–6
Club Parades 39 booking 132
H Hatch Memorial Shell 94 budget options 133, 137
Hadzi, Dmitry 64 Performing Arts Series at business travelers 133,
Hale, Edward Everett the Hatch Shell 37 134
statue of 49 Hawthorne, Nathaniel 24 children in 133
Hall, Prince grave 120 disabled travelers 133
grave 72, 128 Longfellow National discounts 132
Hamilton, Alexander Historic Site 110 grading and facilities 132
statue of 95 Old Corner Bookstore 61 hidden extras 132
Hancock, John The Old Manse historic hotels 134–5
Continental Congress 23 (Concord) 119 inns 135–6
grave 50, 126 Omni Parker House 60 luxury hotels 136–7
Old State House 63 The Wayside (Concord) taxes 132, 174
Paul Revere’s ride 121 120 tipping 174
portrait of 106 Hayden, Harriet 51 Howe, Elias 33
Hancock-Clarke House Hayden, Lewis 25, 51 Howe, Julia Ward 32, 61
(Lexington) 121 Head of the Charles Howe, Dr. Samuel Gridley
Handel, George Frideric Regatta 38 47
89 Head Island light pavilion Howells, William Dean 61
Hanover Street 125 Huntington Theatre 11
Street-by-Street map Health care 177 Hutchinson, Anne 20, 21,
71 Healy, George 32
Harrison Gray Otis House Liberty and Union, Now Hutchinson, Thomas 77
46 and Forever 65 Hynes Convention Center
architecture 34 Hepzibah Swan Houses 47 98
see also Otis House architecture 34
Museum Street-by-Street map 45 I
Harrison, Peter 110 Here-There mural (Noland) Ice cream
Harrison, Rex 88 123 ice cream parlors 150–51
Ice cream (cont.) Jones, Quincy 99 Lewis and Harriet Hayden

Scooper Bowl festival 37 Jordan Hall 11 House 51
Ice hockey 166, 167 Lexington 121
events 38, 39 K Lexington, Battle of (1775)
Ice skating 38, 165 Kallmann, McKinnell & 23
In-line skating 164 Knowles 64 Lexington Battle Green 121
Independence Day 39 Kandinsky, Wassily 115 Liberty and Union, Now and
Inns 135–6 Keayne, Robert 62 Forever (Healy) 65
Institute of Contemporary Keayne Hall 62 Liberty Tree 85
Art 31, 76 Keith, B.F. 85 Libraries
Great days in Boston 12, Kellet, Rev. P. 72 Boston Athenaeum 24,
13 Kennedy, Edward M. 27, 51
Insurance 177 33, 104 Boston Public Library 24,
Internet 179 Kennedy, John F. 27, 33 25, 34, 90, 92, 98–9
tourist information assassination 27, 64 John F. Kennedy Library
websites 175 John F. Kennedy Library and Museum 27, 31, 104
Irish potato famine and Museum 27, 31, 104 Mary Baker Eddy Library
(1845–49) 24–5 John F. Kennedy National for the Betterment of
memorials 58, 61, 110 Historic Site 105 Humanity 100–101
Isabella Stewart Gardner Kennedy, Robert F. 27, 33, Scottish Rite Masonic
Museum 30, 105 104 Museum & Library
Great days in Boston 10, Kennedy, Rose Fitzgerald (Lexington) 121
13 105 Widener Library 112
Islands Kent, Corita 125 Light-Space Modulator
Boston Harbor 13 Kiefer, Anselm 115 (Moholy-Nagy) 114, 115
The Esplanade 94 King, Martin Luther Jr. 120 Lightbox Gallery
Martha’s Vineyard 19 King’s Chapel and Burying (Cambridge) 115
Italian Feast Days 37 Ground 10, 60, 126 Lilac Sunday (Arnold
Street-by-Street map 58 Arboretum) 36
J Klee, Paul 115 Lincoln, Abraham
Jackson, Lydia 118 Kokoschka, Oskar 115 assassination 25, 60
Jacob Wirth 87 Krall, Diana 99 Civil War 25
Jamaica Pond 105 Kramer, Joey 99 Linde family 106
James I, King of England Kresge Auditorium and List Visual Arts Center
19 Chapel 35 (Cambridge) 111, 123
James II, King of England Little, Malcolm see
20, 21 L Malcolm X
James, Henry 33, 46 L Street Bath House 124 Lodge family 24
James, Thomas 88 L Street Beach 124 Logan International
James, William 33 Labor Day 39 Airport 125, 180, 181
Jazz 162, 163 Lacrosse 167 Long Wharf 76
Berklee BeanTown Jazz Ladder District 84–5 Longfellow, Henry
Festival 38 Street-by-Street map 83 Wadsworth 33
Jews LaFarge, John 96 First Baptist Church 94
Boston Jewish Film Lafayette, Marquis de 87 Longfellow Birthday
Festival 38 Lagoon Bridge 48 Celebration 39
New England Holocaust Lamb, Thomas 85 Longfellow National
Memorial 65 Land, Edwin H. 33 Historic Site 110
Joe Moakley Park 124 Lane, Fitz Hugh Old Corner Bookstore 61
Jogging 164 Boston Harbor 108 Omni Parker House 60
John F. Kennedy Library Law enforcement 176 Paul Revere poem 23, 24,
and Museum 27, 31, 104 Le Corbusier 75
John F. Kennedy National Carpenter Center for the Longfellow National
Historic Site 105 Visual Arts (Cambridge) Historic Site (Cambridge)
John Hancock Tower 99 35, 113 110
John Harvard Mall Lee, General Robert E. 25 Lost property 176, 177
(Charlestown) 117 Lehane, Dennis 33 Louis Philippe, King of
Johnson, Philip 98, 99 Leif Erikson 19, 95 France 65
Louisburg Square 46 Maps (cont.) M.B.T.A.

Great days in Boston 12, Concord 119 buses 182
13 Freedom Trail walk 126–9 subway and trolley cars
Street-by-Street map 44 Greater Boston 16–17, 182
Lowell, Amy 32 103 Meacham, George F. 48
Lowell, James Russell 24, MIT Campus walk 123 Media 179
32, 61 North America 14–15 Media Test Wall (MIT,
Lowell, Robert 32 North End 70–71 Cambridge) 123
Lowell family 24, 32 North End and the Medical emergencies 176,
Luther Standing Bear, Waterfront 69 177
Chief 120 Old Boston and the Medical insurance 176,
Financial District 57 177
M South Boston walk Meeting houses
M Street Beach 124 124–5 African Meeting House
McCloskey, Robert 36, 49 Three guided walks 122 25, 51
McKay, Donald 32–3, 125 Washington Street 82–3 Charles Street Meeting
McKim, Charles 34, 92, 98, West End 43 House 44, 46
99 Marathon 27, 36, 167 Old South Meeting
Macy’s department store Copley Square plaque 98 House 10, 59, 61, 127
83 terrorist attack 27 Memorial Day 39
Magazines 179 Marc, Franz 115 Memorials see Monuments
Maginnis, Charles 96 Markets Menino, Thomas 27
Mail services 179 antiques 156, 157 Men’s fashion shops 154,
Make Way for Ducklings Boston Public Market 65 155
(McCloskey) 36, 49 Marsalis, Branford 99 Metropolitan Theatre 88
Malcolm, Daniel Martha’s Vineyard 19 Millet, Pierre François 108
grave 128 Martin Luther King Day 39 Mills Gallery 101
Malcolm X 32, 60 Mary II, Queen of England Minute Man (French) 118
Manchester New 21 Minute Man National
Hampshire Airport 180, Mason, Jonathan 46 Historical Park
181 Massachusetts Bay Colony North Bridge Visitor
Manet, Edouard 20–21 Center (Concord) 118
Fogg Art Museum Massachusetts Bay Visitor Center (Lexington)
(Cambridge) 114 Company 20, 21 121
Museum of Fine Arts, Massachusetts General MIT see Massachusetts
Boston 108 Hospital 55 Institute of Technology
Skating 115 Massachusetts Institute of (Cambridge)
Mapparium 101 Technology (MIT, Moakley, Joe 124
Maps Cambridge) 26, 111 Mobile phones 179
Back Bay 92–3 art and architecture 11, Modernist architecture 35
Back Bay and South End 13, 34 Mohicans 19
91 guided walk 123 Moholy-Nagy, Laszlo
Beacon Hill 43, 44–5 MIT Museum 111 Light-Space Modulator
Boston and environs 15 Massachusetts Society for 114, 115
Boston Common and the Prevention of Cruelty Monet, Claude 108
Public Garden 48–9 to Animals 67 Money 178
Boston Street Finder Massachusetts State Monument Square
186–91 House 52–3, 126 (Concord) 118
Boston “T” transport Massachusetts State Monuments
network 183 Transportation Building Blackstone Memorial
Boston transportation 86 Tablet 49
see Back Endpaper Massasoit, Chief 20 Bunker Hill Monument
Boston’s Best: Museums Mather family graves 72, (Charlestown) 13, 117,
30–31 128 129
Cambridge 111 Matisse, Henri 105 Donald McKay memorial
Chinatown and Theater MayFair 36 125
District 81 Mayflower 20 Dorchester Heights
Colonial Boston 58–9 “Mayflower Compact” 20 Monument 124
Monuments (cont.) Museums and galleries Music (cont.)

Ether Monument 49 (individual) (cont.) folk and world music
Irish Famine memorials Harvard Museum of 162, 163
58, 61, 110 Natural History Hatch Memorial Shell 94
New England Holocaust (Cambridge) 116 jazz and blues 162, 163
Memorial 65 Institute of opera 160, 161
Parkman Bandstand 49 Contemporary Art 12, 13, rock music 162, 163
Shaw Memorial 49 31, 76
Soldiers and Sailors Isabella Stewart Gardner N
Monument 49 Museum 10, 13, 30, 105 National Historic
see also Statues John F. Kennedy Library Landmarks
Morison, Samuel Eliot 32 and Museum 27, 31, 104 Walden Pond State
statue of 95 Lightbox Gallery Reservation (Concord)
Morris, William 96, 97 (Cambridge) 115 120
Motherwell, Robert 64 List Visual Arts Center National Historic Sites
Mount Vernon Street 46 (Cambridge) 111, 123 John F. Kennedy 105
Street-by-Street map 45 Mills Gallery 101 Longfellow (Cambridge)
Munch, Edvard 114 MIT Museum 111 110
Munroe Tavern (Lexington) Museum of African The Wayside (Concord)
121 American History 51 120
Museums and galleries Museum of Fine Arts, National Historical Parks
(general) Boston (MFA) 10, 12, 13, Minute Man (Concord)
for children 169 26, 30, 51, 106–9 118
opening hours 174 Museum of Science and Minute Man (Lexington)
Museums and galleries Science Park 30, 55 121
(individual) Nichols House Museum Natural History Museum
Arthur M. Sackler 31, 45, 47 (Cambridge) 116
Museum (Cambridge) The Old Manse Nauset tribe 19
114, 115 (Concord) 119 Nevelson, Louise 123
Boston Tea Party Ships Old South Meeting New England Aquarium
and Museum 76–7 House 59, 61 31, 78–9
Boston’s Best: Museums Old State House 56, children’s Boston 170
30–31 62–3 Great days in Boston 11,
Bunker Hill Monument Orchard House 12, 13
117 (Concord) 120 New England
Busch-Reisinger Otis House Museum 31, Conservatory of Music
Museum (Cambridge) 54 11, 26
114, 115 Paul Revere House 12, New England Holocaust
Carpenter Center for 71, 75, 127 Memorial 65
Visual Arts (Cambridge) Paul S. Russell, MD “New Guinea” African
113 Museum of Medical American community
Children’s Museum 11, History 55 128
77 Peabody Museum of New Old South Church 98
Clough House 70, 72 Archaeology and New Year 39
Concord Museum 119 Ethnology (Cambridge) Newbury Street 10, 12, 13,
Constitution, U.S.S. 13, 116 95
117, 129 Scottish Rite Masonic Street-by-Street map 93
Custom House 66 Museum & Library Newman, Robert
Emerson House (Lexington) 121 grave 72
(Concord) 118 William Hickling Prescott Old North Church 73, 128
Fogg Art Museum House 47 Paul Revere’s ride 23
(Cambridge) 114–15 Music Newspapers 179
Gibson House Museum Boston Opera House 82, Nichols, Rose Standish 45,
35, 94 85 47
Hart Nautical Gallery 111 Boston Pops Orchestra Nichols family 46
Harvard Art Museums 94 Nichols House Museum
(Cambridge) 11, 13, 30, classical music 160, 161 31, 47
114–15 festivals 36, 37, 38 Street-by-Street map 45
Nightclubs 162, 163 Olmsted, Frederick Law Parks and gardens (cont.)
Nixon, Richard M. 104 105 Hidden Gardens of
Noland, Kenneth Omni Parker House 60 Beacon Hill 36
Here-There 123 Street-by-Street map 58 Joe Moakley Park 124
Nolde, Emil 115 O’Neill, Eugene 89 Post Office Square 66–7
North America map 14–15 O’Neill, Thomas P. “Tip” 33 Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy
North End and the Open-air entertainment Greenway 27, 65
Waterfront 69–79 159 Thomas Park 124
area map 69 Opening hours 174 Parris, Alexander 34
Boston Tea Party 77 banks 178 Charlestown Navy Yard
Great days in Boston 10 bars 138 117
hotels 134–6 restaurants 138 Massachusetts General
New England Aquarium shops 152 Hospital 55
78–9 Opera 160, 161 St. Paul’s Cathedral 84
Old North Church 73 Boston Opera House 82, Passports 174
restaurants 144–5 85 lost passports 176
Street-by-Street map Orchard House (Concord) Patrick, Deval 27
70–71 120 Patriot’s Day 39
Norton, Charles Eliot 114 Oriental Tea Company 64 parade 36
Otis, Harrison Gray Paul Revere House 12, 75,
O Beacon Street 47 127
O’Brien, Hugh 26 Harrison Gray Otis House Street-by-Street map 71
O’Keeffe, Georgia 108 46, 54 Paul Revere Mall 10, 74
Old Boston and the Otis House Museum 31, Street-by-Street map 71
Financial District 57–67 54 Paul S. Russell, MD
architecture 35 Outlet stores 153 Museum of Medical
area map 57 History 55
hotels 134, 135, 137 P Peabody Museum of
Old State House 62–3 Paine, Robert Treat Archaeology and
restaurants 143–4 grave 50 Ethnology (Cambridge)
Street-by-Street map Palladio, Andrea 51 116
58–9 Paris, Treaty of (1783) 23 Peale, Charles Wilson 108
Old City Hall 61 Park Street Church 50, 126 Pei, I.M. & Partners
Street-by-Street map 58 Parker, Harvey D. 60 Government Center 64
Old Corner Bookstore 61, Parker, Robert 33 John Hancock Tower 99
127 Parker House see Omni Museum of Fine Arts,
Street-by-Street map 59 Parker House Boston 106
Old Granary Burying Parking 132, 184 Pennacook tribe 19
Ground 50, 126 Parkman, Dr. George Pennell, H.B. 86
The Old Manse (Concord) Beacon Street 47 Performing Arts Series at
119 Parkman Bandstand 49 the Hatch Shell 37
Old North Church 23, 73 Parkman House 47 Personal security 176
Annual Lantern Festival Parks and gardens Petrol (gas) 184
36 Arnold Arboretum 36, Pharmacies 177
Freedom Trail walk 128 104–5 Philippoteaux, Paul 101
Great days in Boston 10, Boston Common and Phillips, Wendell 25
12, 13 Public Garden 11, 12, 13, Phips, Governor William 21
Street-by-Street map 70 36, 48–9 Piano, Renzo 105, 114
Old South Meeting House Boston Flower and Picasso, Pablo 123
10, 61, 127 Garden Show 36 Pierce-Hichborn House 75
Street-by-Street map 59 children’s Boston 170 Pilgrim Fathers 20
Old State House 56, 62–3 Christopher Columbus Pino, Tony 74
Freedom Trail walk 127 Park 10, 12, 13, 75 Pinsky, Robert 33
Great days in Boston 10, Copley Square 98 Planetarium
12, 13 Emerald Necklace 10, Charles Hayden
Street-by-Street map 59 105 Planetarium 55
Old West Church 54 The Esplanade 94 Pleasure Bay 124–5
Oliver, Andrew 85 Franklin Park 105 Pleasure Bay Causeway 125
Plymouth Company 19 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste Riverway 105

Pocumtuc tribe 19 (cont.) Rock music 162, 163
Poe, Edgar Allen 125 Museum of Fine Arts, Rodgers and Hammerstein
birthplace 87 Boston 108 86, 89
Poindexter, Leon 76 Renting cars 185 Rodin, Auguste 114
Police 176, 177 Responsible tourism 175, Romberg, Sigmund 86
Pollock, Jackson 108 182, 185 Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy
Post Office 35 Restaurants 138–49 Greenway 27, 65
Post Office Square 66–7 Back Bay and South End Rowes Wharf 68, 76
Postal services 179 146–8 Rowing 167
President’s Day 39 Beacon Hill and West Rubens, Peter Paul 108
Preston, William G. 48 End 142–3 Rush, John
Prudential Center 98, 100 booking 139 Along the Battle Road 118
Great days in Boston 10, children in 139, 171 Ruth, Babe 27
12, 13 Chinatown and Theater
Public Garden see Boston District 145–6 S
Common and Public disabled travelers 139 Saarinen, Eero 35, 111
Garden etiquette 139 Sackler, Arthur M. 115
Public holidays 39 Farther afield 148–9 Safety 176
Public transportation 181, The Flavors of Boston travel safety advice 174,
182–3 140–41 175
Puritans 19–21 Jacob Wirth 87 Sailboats 164
Puvis de Chavannes, Pierre North End and the St. Patrick’s Day Parade 36
98 Waterfront 144–5 St. Paul’s Cathedral 84
Old Boston and the Street-by-Street map 82
Q Financial District 143–4 St. Stephen’s Church 74
Quakers 21 opening hours 138 Street-by-Street map 71
Quincy, Josiah 66 taxes 138, 174 Salem 21
statue of 61 tipping 138, 174 Sales 152
Quincy Market 66, 130–31 see also Food and drink Sales tax 152, 174
architecture 34 Revere, Paul 75 Santayana, George 33
Great days in Boston 10, church bells 60, 74, 75 Saratoga, Battle of (1777) 23
12, 13 Concord Museum 119 Sargent, John Singer
grave 50, 126 Boston Public Library 92,
R Massachusetts State 99
Racing, horse 167 House 52 Fogg Art Museum
Radcliffe Institute for midnight ride 23, 24, 75, (Cambridge) 114
Advanced Study 121 Isabella Stewart Gardner
(Cambridge) 26, 111 Old North Church 70, 73 Museum 105
Radio 179 Patriot’s Day Parade 36 Museum of Fine Arts,
Rail travel 181 Paul Revere House 12, Boston 106, 107, 108
Railways see Trains 71, 75, 127 Schools
Rainfall 39 Paul Revere Mall 71 Abiel Smith School 51
Reenactments St. Stephen’s Church Boston Latin School 20,
Battle of Lexington 121 74 21, 127
Boston Massacre 36 silverware 106, 108 Science Museum and Park
Boston Tea Party 39 statues of 71, 74, 128 30, 55
Rembrandt Revere, Rachel 75 Scooper Bowl ice cream
Isabella Stewart Gardner Revolution see American festival 37
Museum 105 Revolution Scottish Rite Masonic
Museum of Fine Arts, Richardson, Henry Hobson Museum & Library
Boston 108 34–5 (Lexington) 121
Renaissance Revival First Baptist Church 93, 94 Security 176
architecture 34 Harvard University 113 Senior travelers 175
Renoir, Pierre-Auguste Trinity Church 93, 96–7 Sert, Josep Lluis 35
Dance at Bougival 107 Richardson Romanesque Shaw, Colonel Robert
Fogg Art Museum architecture 34–5 Gould 32
(Cambridge) 114 Richter, Gerhard 115 Battle of Fort Wagner 25
Shaw, Colonel Robert Spectator sports 166–7 Taxes (cont.)

(cont.) Speed limits 184 sales tax 152, 174
Shaw Memorial 49 Speedwell 20 Taxis 183, 185
Shay, Daniel 24 Sports 164–7 Tchaikovsky, Pyotr Ilich 89
Ships see Boats and ships Spring in Boston 36 Tea rooms 150, 151
Shoe shops 155 Stanford Calderwood Telephone Men and Women
Shopping 152–7 Pavilion 101 at Work (Cornwell) 67
antiques, fine crafts, and Stata Center (Cambridge) Telephones 179
gifts 156–7 123 Television 179
children’s Boston 171 Statues Temperatures 38
department stores 152–3 Alexander Hamilton 95 Tennis 164, 167
discount and outlet Benjamin Franklin 61 T.F. Green Airport 180, 181
stores 153 Christopher Columbus 46 Thanksgiving 20, 39
fashion 154–5 David Farragut 124 Theater District see
opening hours 152, 174 Edgar Allen Poe 87 Chinatown and Theater
payment and taxes 152 Edward Everett Hale 49 District
sales 152 George Washington 42, Theaters 160, 161
shopping malls 152, 153 48, 53 Berklee Performance
Shreve, Crump & Low 35, John Harvard 112 Center 99
98 Josiah Quincy 61 Boston Opera House 82,
Shubert Theatre 12, 88 Minute Man (French) 118 85
Shure, Robert 61 Paul Revere 71, 74, 128 children’s Boston 170,
Sidney, Margaret 120 Samuel Adams 65 171
Skating Samuel Eliot Morison 95 Colonial Theatre 11, 86
ice skating 38, 165 William Ellery Channing History of Boston’s
in-line skating 164 49 Theater District 89
Skating (Manet) 115 William Lloyd Garrison 95 Huntington Theatre 11
Ski and Snowboard Expo Stella, Frank 123 Shubert Theatre 12, 88
38 Stern, Robert A.M. 98 Stanford Calderwood
Skidmore, Owings & Stowe, Harriet Beecher 61 Pavilion 101
Merrill 76 Street Performers Festival Wang Theatre 12, 88
Skiing 165 36 Wilbur Theatre 89
Skywalk 100 Stuart, Gilbert Theft 176
Slavery grave 49 Thomas Park 124
abolition movement 25 Washington portraits 51 Thoreau, Henry David 24,
“Underground Railroad” Student travelers 175 33
51 Sturgis, William Bigelow 109 Concord Museum 119
Sleepy Hollow Cemetery Subway 26, 182 grave 120
(Concord) 120 “Sugar Bowl” beach 125 Old Corner Bookstore 61
Smith, Captain John 19, 20 Summer in Boston 37 The Old Manse
Smith, John J. 25 Sumner, Charles (Concord) 119
Smith Campus Center 35 antislavery speeches 25 Omni Parker House 60
Smoking 139, 174 Longfellow National Walden Pond State
Soccer 166–7 Historic Site 110 Reservation 120
Soldiers and Sailors Park Street Church 50 Tickets, for entertainments
Monument 49 Sunshine 37 158, 159
Somerset Club 47 Swan, Hepzibah 47 Ticknor & Fields 61
Sons of Liberty 22, 32, 72 Swan Boats 49 Tiffany, Louis Comfort 95
Liberty Tree 85 Swimming 164 Tipping 174
Old South Meeting in restaurants 138, 174
House 61 T Titian 105, 108
South Boston High School “T” subway and trolley Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de
124 lines 26, 182 114
South End see Back Bay map 183 Tourist information 174,
and South End Tandy, Jessica 89 175
South Station 172–3 Taxes 174 Tours 183, 185
Special-needs travelers see hotel 132 children’s Boston 168,
Disabled travelers in restaurants 138 169
Townshend Acts 22 Vikings 19 Weather 37–9

Trains 181 Vinland 19 Websites
Transcendental Club 24 Vintage clothes 154–5 tourist information 175
Travel 180–85 Visas 174 Webster, Daniel 65
air travel 180, 181 Webster, Dr. John 47
buses 181, 182 W Welton Beckett &
cars 181, 184–5 Walden Pond State Associates 64
green travel 182 Reservation (Concord) West, Mae 88
insurance 177 120 West End see Beacon Hill
map see Back Endpaper Walk for Hunger 36 and West End
subway 182 Walks 122–3, 182–3 Whale Watch boat trips 78
taxis 183, 185 Beacon Hill architectural Wheatley, Phillis 33
trains 181 tour 54 Wheelchair access see
trolley cars 182 Black Heritage Trail 51 Disabled travelers
Travel safety advice 174, Freedom Trail walk Whistler, James Abbott
175 126–9 McNeill 105, 114
Traveler’s checks 152, 178 MIT Campus walk 123 Widener, Harry Elkins 112
Tremont Estates Building South Boston walk 124– Widener Library
101 5 (Cambridge) 112
Trevisiani, Francesco 114 Wang Theatre 12, 88 Wilbur Theatre 89
Trinity Church 10, 96–7 War of 1812 (with Willard, Solomon 84
architecture 34, 35 England) 24, 50 William III, King of England
Street-by-Street map 93 Warren, Dr. Joseph 117 21, 51
Trolley cars 182 Washington, George 87 William Hickling Prescott
Truth, Sojourner 51 Bunker Hill Monument House 47
Twain, Mark 32 (Charlestown) 117
Williams, Tennessee 89
bust of 73
U Wine
Cambridge Common
Boston Wine Expo 39
“Underground Railroad” (Cambridge) 110
25, 51 Christ Church Winter in Boston 39
Union Oyster House 65 (Cambridge) 110 Winter sports 38, 165
Union Park 101 Dorchester Heights Winthrop, John 20, 21
Universities Monument 124 City Square
Boston University 26 Evacuation of Boston 23 (Charlestown) 117
college sports 167 Fort Independence 125 grave 126
Harvard University 20, 21, Harvard Yard 113 Wirth, Jacob 87
26, 34, 112–13 Longfellow National Witchcraft 21
Massachusetts Institute Historic Site (Cambridge) Women’s fashion shops
of Technology (MIT, 110 154, 155
Cambridge) 26, 34, 111 Massachusetts State Woody’s L Street Tavern
Radcliffe Institute for House 53 124
Advanced Study portrait of 51 World music 162, 163
(Cambridge) 26, 111 presidential inauguration Wren, Sir Christopher
Updike, John 99 24 Old North Church 73
U.S.S. Constitution statues of 42, 48, 53 Old South Meeting
(Charlestown) 13, 117, Washington, Martha 51, House 127
129 110 Park Street Church 50
Washington Street
V Street-by-Street map Y
Van Gogh, Vincent 82–3 Youth hostels 133, 137
La Berceuse 108 Watch and Ward Society
Verizon Building 35, 67 89 Z
Veronese, Paolo 108 Water sports 164, 165 Ziegfeld Follies 86, 89
Veterans Day 39 Waterfront see North End Zoos
parade 38 and the Waterfront children’s Boston 170
Victorian architecture 35 Watson, Thomas 67 Franklin Park Zoo 104
A View of the Town of The Wayside (Concord) see also Aquarium
Concord April 19,1775 119 120 Zurbarán, Francisco de 108
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  205
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Art Director Gillian Allan
following people whose contributions and Indexer Hilary Bird
assistance have made the preparation of this Researcher Timothy Kennard
book possible.
Revisions and Relaunch Team
Main Contributors Ashwin Raju Adimari, Hansa Babra, Shruti Bahl,
Patricia Harris and David Lyon are journalists and Mark Bailey, Eleanor Berman, Marta Bescos, Sam
critics. They review art and restaurants and write Borland, Caroline Elliker, Alice Fewery, Jo
extensively about travel, food, and popular Gardner, Eric Grossman, Claire Jones, Priya
culture from their home in Cambridge, Kukadia, Sumita Khatwani, Shikha Kulkarni,
Massachusetts. In addition to their books on Esther Labi, Gerrish Lopez, Carly Madden, Nicola
art and travel, their essays, narratives, and Malone, Sam Merrell, Katherine Mesquita,
photographs have appeared in a wide variety of Casper Morris, Scarlett O’Hara, Mary Ormandy,
online and print publications, including Expedia. Catherine Palmi, Marianne Petrou, Pete Quinlan,
com, The Boston Globe, the Los Angeles Times, Rada Radojicic, Mani Ramaswamy, Lynne
American Craft, Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel, Robinson, Lokamata Sahu, Sands Publishing
The Robb Report, and Boston Magazine. Solutions, Avijit Sengupta, Azeem Siddiqui,
Preeti Singh, Meredith Smith, Brett Steel, Rachel
Tom Bross has lived in Massachusetts since 1965 Symons, Stuti Tiwari, Ros Walford, Hugo Wilkinson,
and now lives in Boston’s North End, virtually Tanveer Zaidi.
next door to Old North Church. During the past
Special Assistance
25 years as a freelance travel journalist Tom has
written extensively about U.S., Canadian, and Aimee O’Brien at the Greater Boston Convention
overseas destinations for various guidebooks, and Visitors Bureau, who provided invaluable
national magazines, newspapers, newsletters, assistance with many Boston sights. Rosemary
and online publications. His domestic specialties Barron for acting as food consultant and for
are New England and California; overseas, food preparation.
Germany, Belgium, and Austria. He is, in addition,
Photography Permissions
a professional photographer and spent several
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the
years in the 1980s as staff photographer of his
following for their assistance and kind
home city’s American League baseball team,
permission to photograph at their establishments:
the Boston Red Sox.
Courtesy COMMONWEALTH OF
MASSACHUSETTS ART: George Washington Sir
Kem Sawyer lives in Washington DC and has
Francis Chantrey, 1827 – 53bl; Civil War Army
written children’s books, feature articles, and
Nurses Memorial Bela Pratt, 1911 – 53ca; John
book reviews. She particularly enjoys writing
Hancock Memorial artist unknown, 1915 – 23cl;
about history and has written the history feature
Return of the Colours to the Custody of the
for the DK Eyewitness Travel Guide to Washington
Commonwealth, December 22, 1986, mural by
DC as well as for this guide.
Edward Simmons, 1902 – 53tl; Stained glass
window, Main Stair Hall, 1900/details:
Additional Contributors
Magna Carta seal 43, Seal of the Commonwealth
Brett Cook, Eric Grossman, Carolyn Heller,
(pre-1898) 52b.
Juliette Rogers.
Museum of Fine Arts, Sackler Museum, Harvard
Additional Illustrations
Museum of Natural History, the Fogg Art and
Christopher King.
Busch-Reisinger Museums, and Franklin Park Zoo.
Additional Photography
Peter Anderson, John Coletti, Patricia Harris, All other churches, museums, hotels,
David Lyon, Ian O’Leary, Stephen Oliver, restaurants, shops, galleries and sights too
Susannah Sayler, Tony Souter, Clive Streeter. numerous to thank individually.
Design and Editorial Picture Credits

Managing Editor Helen Townsend a – above; b – below/bottom; c – centre; f – far;
Managing Art Editor Kate Poole l – left; r – right; t – top.
206  ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Works of art have been reproduced with the Collection, New York: 18, 20t/c/bc, 21t/clb/bc,
permission of the following copyright holders: 22tr/clb/bc, 22-23c, 23tl/cra/crb, 24ca, 25tl/crb,
Here-There Wall by Kenneth Noland 1985 (c) 27cla, 32bl, 33c, 67tl, 77br/cr, 85br; Greater
DACS, London/VAGA, New York 2011 123bc. Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau: US
PhotoGroup/Leslie Wood 185cr; Greyhound
The publisher would like to thank the following Lines Inc.: 181c; Grill 23 & Bar: 138cl.
individuals, companies and picture libraries for
permission to reproduce their photographs. Harvard University Art Museums: © President
and Fellows of Harvard College, courtesy of
akg-images: Arkivi 24cb. Alamy Images: Bill Fogg Art Museum, Alpheus Hyatt Purchasing
Brooks 59cr; Ian Dagnall 75b; Randy Duchaine and Friends of the Fogg Art Museum Funds
Kneeling Angel Gian Lorenzo Bernini, c.1674-
80, 116br; Michael Dwyer 166br; Sarah Hadley
1675 -115tl; courtesy of the Busch-Reisinger
71cr; Andre Jenny 122bl, 141tl; Luscious Frames
Museum, Gift of Sibyl Moholy-Nagy, Light-Space
85cl; Alan Myers 125br; North Wind Picture
Modulator, Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, 1930 © Hattula
Archives 61tr; Old Paper Studios 26cr; William Moholy-Nagy/DACS, London 2011 - 114bc;
Owens 10cl; Chuck Pefley 11tc; Pictorial Press courtesy Fogg Art Museum, Bequest: Collection
Ltd 32cl; Prisma Bildagentur AG 29cr; Robert of Maurice Wertheim Skating Edouard Manet,
Harding Picture Library Ltd 44bl; Swerve125tl; 1877 - 115tr; Peter Vanderwarker 114cla, 115br;
Jeff Titcomb 123tr; Vespasian 148br; View/Paul Hulton Getty Collection: 60cb .
Raftery 31cr; Visions of America, LLC 164cr; Jim
West 138br. The Art Archive: 89bc; AWL Maggie Janik/www.photographersdirect.com:
Images: Alan Copson 68; Axiom: 36cl. 124cla.
Laura Barisonzi Photography/www. Lebrecht Collection: The Rodgers &

Hammerstein Organization 89br; James Lemass:
photographersdirect.com: 124bl; Berklee
6cl, 20 tc, 27crb, 37cra/cl/br, 38bl, 39ca, 83tc,
College of Music: Nick Balkin 99bc; The Black
93crb, 120tl, 121br, 165tr, 167tr, 168cla/br.
Rose: 143tr; Boston Ballet: Farnsworth/Blalock
Photography 158cr; Bostonian Society/Old Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority:
State House: 55bl, 89cb; Boston Harbor, 1853, 183b; Minute Man National Historical Park:
John White Allen Scott. Purchase 1884 – 8-9. 121cla; Museum of Fine Arts Boston: Gift of
Egypt Exploration Fund Egypt, Deir el-Bahri
City Water Taxi: 180bl; Corbis: 26tc, Bettmann painted wood 26bl; HU-MFA Expedition
27tr, 33tl/br, 74bl, 89cra/bl, 100bc; Edifice, Shawabtis of Taharka 30br; 106ca, 106cb,
Philippa Lewis 128ca; Kevin Fleming 11cl, 39bl, Bequest of Mrs. Beatrice Constance (Turner)
158bl, 184tl; Robert Holmes 140cla; Hulton- Maynard in Memory of Winthrop Sargent Revere
Deutsch Collection 47tc; Richard T. Nowitz 75c; Silver Teapot 106tr; Egypt Exploration Fund Inner
Photononstop/Calle Montes 56; Concord Coffin of Nes-mut-aat-neru 106clb; Picture Fund
Museum www.concord Museum.org: A View of Dance at Bougival Pierre-Auguste Renoir, 1883
Town of Concord April 19, 1775 (1775-1825) Artist -107bc; Ruth and Carl J. Shapiro Colonnade and
Unknown, oil on canvas, bequest of Mrs. Stedman Vault John Singer Sargent Murals 107cr; Francis
Buttrick, Sr. 119cr. Bart-lett Donation of 1900 Head of Aphrodite,
Greek Late Classical or Early Hellenistic period
David Lyon & Patricia Harris: 30c. Dreamstime. -107tl; M. and M. Karolik Collection of American
com: Americanspirit 90; Jerry Coli 12bl; 28, 166tr, Paintings, 1815 – 1865, by exchange, Boston
166cl; Erix2005 102; John Kropewnicki 36br; Harbor Fitz Hugh Lane 108cla; Bequest of John T.
Thomas Price 13bc; Rcavalleri 40-41; Jorge Spaulding La Berceuse Vincent van Gogh, 1889 –
Salcedo 130-131; Marcio Silva 2-3, 12tr, 75tr, 108br; Maria Antoinette Evans Fund
170b, 172-3; Lee Snider 13tr; Sphraner 42. Babylonia:Nebuchadnezzar II 109tl; Gift by
Contribution Horse, early 8th century, China 109c;
L’Espalier Restaurant: 147br.; The Eliot Hotel Richard Norton Memorial Fund Fragment of
and Clio Restaurant: Eric Roth 135tr. fresco from villa at Contrada Bottaro 109bc;
Fourthree Media: Justine Flute 178cla. Museum of Science: George Kiley 169tr;
Andrew Brilliant 169bc; Kindra Clineff 30tr.
Getty Images: Boston Globe 145br,146tr; Kim
Grant 146bl; Photonica 141c; Granger New England Aquarium: 78cl, Bob Kramer 78tr/
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS  207
bl, 79tc/cra; No. 9 Park: Susie Cushner 142bl. Taj Boston: 133tl, 136tr; Topham Picturepoint:
The Oceanaire/Landry’s, Inc: 139tl, 144tr; Old 27bc.
North Church, Boston: 73clb; Omni Parker
House: 58clb; Used by Permission of Orchard XV Beacon: 137br.
House / The Louisa May Alcott Memorial
Association: 120c; Paul O’Shaughnessy: 121ca.
Map front cover: nobleIMAGES.
Peabody Museum of Archaeology and
Ethnology/Harvard University: © President and Front Endpaper: Dreamstime.com: Jorge
Fellows of Harvard College 1976. All Rights Salcedo Ltc. Alamy Images:. Randy Duchaine
Reserved. Photos Hillel Burger 116c.; Courtesy Rbl; AWL Images: Alan Copson Rtr; Corbis:
Paul Revere Memorial Association: 75t. Photononstop/Calle Montes Rbr; Dreamstime.
com: Americanspirit Lbc.
Puppet Showcase Theatre: Marionettes by Paul
Vincent Davis 171tl.
Jacket
Front and spine top: Alamy Stock Photo:
Revere Hotel: 132br, 134bl; Rialto Restaurant:
149br; Robert Harding Picture Library: Steve nobleIMAGES
Dunwell 40-1.
All other images ©Dorling Kindersley.
Sorellina: 148tl; STA Travel Group: 175clb. See www.dkimages.com for further information.
Special Editions of DK Travel Guides To find out more, please contact:

DK Travel Guides can be purchased in bulk in the United States [email protected]
quantities at discounted prices for use in
in the UK [email protected]
promotions or as premiums. We are also able
to offer special editions and personalized in Canada DK Special Sales at
jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts from [email protected]
all of our books, tailored specifically to meet in Australia penguincorporatesales@
your own needs. penguinrandomhouse.com.au
208  FURTHER READING
Further Reading
Non-Fiction Paul Revere’s Ride. Fischer,
A Guide to Public Art in Boston: from David Hackett. (Oxford University
Newburyport to Plymouth. Carlock, Press, 1994.)
Marty. (Harvard Common Press, The Fitzgeralds and the Kennedys:
1993.) an American Saga. Goodwin,
AIA Guide to Boston. Southworth, Doris Kearns. (Simon and Schuster,
Michael and Susan. (Globe Pequot 1987.)
Press, 1996.) 26 Miles to Boston: the Boston
All about Boston Harbor Islands. Kales, Marathon Experience from
Emily and David. (Hewitts Cove Hopkinton to Copley Square.
Publishing Co. Inc., 1983.) Connelly, Michael. (Parnassus
Boston Sites and Insights. Wilson, Imprints, 1998.)
Susan. (Beacon Hill Press, 1994.)
Exploring in and Around Boston on Bike Fiction
and Foot. Sinai, Lee. (Appalachian The Godwulf Manuscript. Parker,
Mountain Club Books, 1996.) Robert. (Delacorte Press,
Gaining Ground: A History of 1974.)
Landmaking in Boston. Seasholes, Make Way for Ducklings. McCloskey,
Nancy. (Mit Press, 2003.) Robert. (Viking Press, 1941.)
Imagining Boston: A Literary Landscape. Mortal Friends. Carroll, James.
O’Connell, Shaun. (Beacon Press, (Little Brown & Company,
1990.) 1978.)

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eyewitness travel

First American Edition, 2001

Published in the United States by Dorling Kindersley Publishing, Inc.,

Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with American usage;

The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.

Old Boston and

North End and

Pumpkins for sale, a regular sight in the fall

The 18th-century Old South Meeting House

Farther Afield 102

Three Guided Walks 122

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

OLD BOSTON AND THE

modernist-style City Hall and Government

1 Introduction to the Area

SE 12 The Black Rose

5 Old South Meeting

SE 14 The Oceanaire Seafood Room

House pp62–3 TR STRE

8 Boston City Hall

This shaded area

detail on the Street-

mark each area.

Street-by-Street: Colonial Boston 6 . Old State House

An important part of Boston’s Freedom Trail (see government, the Old

shows where you are 2 . King’s Chapel and

in relation to other A church has stood here

areas of the city center. cemetery is the resting

ET Dating back to 1718, this

famous literary gathering

place, a bookstore and a

This hotel (see p135) first opened its

doors in 1855, then underwent many

This gives a bird’s-eye view of place for Boston intellectuals. The

interesting and important parts of 0 metres 50

each sightseeing area, with accurate 3 Old City Hall

them. The numbering of the sights

Boston Area Map

of central Boston (excluding the North End and

Farther Afield section). Each is

covered in a full chapter in the

Boston Area by Area section (pp40–

book. In Boston at a Glance (pp28–

maps’ colored borders match the

corner of each page.

Practical information lists all the

3 Detailed Information on each Sight

When it was erected in 1965,

the symbols summarizing practical

information is on the back flap.

A visitors’ checklist provides

the original building remains the archetype

Story boxes provide details on famous

most interesting sights.

1 The wings of the State windows. The windows illustrate

Boston’s Major Sights

These are given more extensive

coverage, sometimes two or more visiting head of state.

full pages. Historic buildings are

Great Days in Boston 10–13

GREAT DAYS IN BOSTON

Afternoon In addition, Boylston Street

acclaimed Boston Symphony