10

11

12

12
No
Need
to
Churn!

I
ONCE MADE BRUSSELS sprout ice
cream. Allow me to explain. Instead of
going to the movies, my boyfriend and
I make ice cream on Friday nights. And

Easy
over four years, we’ve found ourselves in some
flavor territories better left uncharted.
We’ve based most of our adventures on a
recipe from this magazine’s sister publication,

Ice
Cook’s Illustrated. It calls for using an ice cream
maker to create a delightfully rich and luxuri-
ous texture, and it can accommodate all sorts of

Creams
flavors and mix-ins.
An ice cream maker works by churning a
mixture (usually milk, cream, sugar, and egg
yolks) as it freezes to keep the ice crystals small
as they form and to incorporate air—so that
instead of a solid block of frozen milk, you have
silky, scoopable ice cream. by Morgan Bolling
But did we really need to use the machine?
Last year, I found a recipe for a no-churn The sweetened condensed milk and corn
orange ice cream tucked in my editor’s grand- syrup called for in the heirloom recipe, both
mother’s recipe box. It called for whipping liquid sweeteners, helped create a smooth
heavy cream in a blender to stiff peaks and then texture. I’d keep those. I found that I could
9
blending in sweetened condensed milk, evapo- replace the evaporated milk with whole milk
rated milk, corn syrup, sugar, and citrus zest and (which I had on hand) with no negative effects.
juice—about a minute of work. No ice cream Two cups cream to 1 cup sweetened condensed
machine, no churning. You just pop the blended milk and ¼ cup whole milk was the best, most
mixture in the freezer and wait. consistent ratio.
The results rocked my world: velvety, This basic formula proved very adaptable. A
creamy, scoopable ice cream. How could it be? hefty 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract and ¼ tea-
As I read through the ingredient list, one piece spoon of salt (to enhance the flavor) produced
of the puzzle was clear. The whipped cream— an intense vanilla ice cream with a texture that
or, more specifically, the air trapped within could hold a generous scoop of add-ins.
it—stood in for the air normally incorporated Melted chocolate incorporated beautifully.
by an ice cream maker. But in my experiments, Soft stir-ins such as jams and caramel took a bit
I learned that too much air was trouble. When more experimentation, but with some tinkering
I used a stand mixer instead of a blender to and a light hand, I found the ratios that worked.
whip the cream, I introduced too much air and With a blender, some pantry ingredients, and a
ended up with a texture similar to that of frozen little know-how, the ice cream world can be your
whipped topping. Not bad, but it wasn’t ice oyster. (But please don’t put oysters in your ice
cream. I’d stick with the blender, which cream—or Brussels sprouts. Trust me.)
produces whipped cream that’s not quite as
8 fluffy—a positive here.

7
 2

Freeze
It in
a Loaf
Pan 2 B IRT HDAY CAKE
Decrease vanilla to 2 teaspoons. Add 7 MI NT-CO O KI E
½ cup store-bought vanilla frosting Substitute ¾ teaspoon peppermint
and ⅛ teaspoon yellow food coloring extract for vanilla. Add ⅛ teaspoon green
with condensed milk. After transferring food coloring with condensed milk. After
cream mixture to loaf pan, gently stir transferring cream mixture to loaf pan,
in 2 tablespoons rainbow sprinkles gently stir in ½ cup coarsely crushed
1 VA NI LLA NO -CHU R N I CE C R EA M before freezing. Oreo cookies before freezing.
Serves 8 to 10 (Makes about 1 quart)
The cream mixture freezes more quickly 3 BA NAN A–WAL NUT–C HOCO L AT E 8 KEY LI ME
in a loaf pan than in a taller, narrower C HU NK Omit vanilla. Substitute buttermilk
container. If you don’t have a loaf pan, Omit vanilla. Add 2 very ripe bananas for whole milk. Add ½ cup limeade
use an 8-inch square baking pan. with condensed milk. After transferring concentrate with condensed milk. After
cream mixture to loaf pan, gently stir in transferring cream mixture to loaf pan,
2 cups heavy cream, chilled ¼ cup chopped toasted walnuts and gently stir in ½ cup coarsely chopped
1 cup sweetened condensed milk ¼ cup coarsely chopped bittersweet graham crackers before freezing.
¼ cup whole milk chocolate before freezing.
¼ cup light corn syrup 9 DAR K C HOCO L ATE
2 tablespoons sugar 4 MIL K CHO COL ATE Decrease vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Add
1 tablespoon vanilla extract Decrease vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Add 6 ounces melted bittersweet chocolate
¼ teaspoon table salt 6 ounces melted milk chocolate with and ½ teaspoon instant espresso powder
condensed milk. with condensed milk.
1. Process cream in blender until soft
peaks form, 20 to 30 seconds. Scrape 5 PEAC H COB B LER 10 STRAW B ER RY-BUT TE RMIL K

down sides of blender jar and continue Omit sugar. Substitute bourbon for Substitute ½ cup buttermilk for whole
to process until stiff peaks form, about vanilla. Add ½ cup peach preserves and milk and 1 teaspoon lemon juice for
10 seconds longer. Using rubber spatula, ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon with con- vanilla. After transferring cream mixture
stir in condensed milk, whole milk, corn densed milk in step 1. After transferring to loaf pan, dollop ⅓ cup strawberry jam
syrup, sugar, vanilla, and salt. Process cream mixture to loaf pan, gently stir over top. Swirl jam into cream mixture
until thoroughly combined, about in ½ cup coarsely chopped shortbread using tines of fork before freezing.
20 seconds, scraping down sides of cookies before freezing.
blender jar as needed. 11 PE AN UT BUT TE R CU P
2. Pour cream mixture into 8½ by 6 SA LTED CARAM EL– CO CO NUT Omit vanilla. Add ½ cup creamy peanut
4½-inch loaf pan. Press plastic wrap flush Decrease vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Increase butter with condensed milk. After trans-
against surface of cream mixture. Freeze salt to ½ teaspoon. Substitute caramel ferring cream mixture to loaf pan, gently
until firm, at least 6 hours. Serve. sauce for corn syrup. After transferring stir in ½ cup coarsely chopped peanut
cream mixture to loaf pan, gently stir in butter cups before freezing.
¼ cup toasted sweetened shredded co-
conut. Dollop additional ⅓ cup caramel 1 2 MALTE D MI LK CH OCOLATE
sauce over top and swirl into cream mix- Decrease vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Add
ture using tines of fork before freezing. 6 ounces melted milk chocolate and
6 tablespoons malted milk powder with
condensed milk.

Six
Hours
in the
Freezer

6
Nanaimo Bars F ILL I NG
1¼ cups (5 ounces) confectioners’ sugar
8 tablespoons unsalted butter,
Canadians have loved this tri-layer bar cookie for ages. softened
¼ cup (3⁄4 ounce) nonfat dry milk powder
Time to bring it south. by Morgan Bolling 1⁄8 teaspoon table salt
¼ cup heavy cream
NANAIMO, A SMALL city on Van- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
couver Island in the Canadian province
of British Columbia, is just a few miles TOPPI NG
from Washington State, yet the city’s 2⁄3 cup (4 ounces) bittersweet
namesake sweet is virtually unknown in chocolate chips
the United States. But Nanaimo (“nuh- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
NIGH-moe”) bars deserve a bigger 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
stage. These three-layer bars, with
their coconutty cookie bases, creamy 1. F OR TH E CR US T: Make foil sling
centers, and chocolate ganache tops, for 8-inch square baking pan by folding
have a spectrum of sweet flavors and 2 long sheets of aluminum foil so each
satisfying textures worthy of interna- is 8 inches wide. Lay sheets of foil in
tional recognition. pan perpendicular to each other, with
To bring the bars stateside, I found extra foil hanging over edges of pan.
five different recipes for Nanaimo bars, Push foil into corners and up sides of
including a version from Nanaimo’s city pan, smoothing foil flush to pan. Spray
government. I spread them out for my foil with vegetable oil spray.
tasters, and we assessed, layer by layer. 2. Microwave chocolate chips in bowl
While some recipes took a no-cook at 50 percent power, stirring occa-
route for the base, our favorite from sionally, until melted, 1 to 2 minutes.
this initial lineup called for cooking Process cracker pieces, coconut, pecans,
butter, sugar, cocoa powder, and an egg cocoa, and salt in food processor until
in a double boiler and then stirring in cracker pieces are finely ground, about
graham cracker crumbs, coconut, and 30 seconds. Add corn syrup and melted
chopped nuts once the mixture had chocolate and pulse until combined,
thickened. We loved the fudgy and 8 to 10 pulses (mixture should hold
slightly chewy texture of this crust: together when pinched with your fin-
sturdy enough to carry around but soft gers). Transfer to prepared pan. Using
enough to sink our teeth into without bottom of greased measuring cup, press
destroying the bar. But I wanted to see crumbs into even layer in bottom of
if I could achieve it in an easier way. pan. Refrigerate while making filling.
I first ditched the egg, which 3. F OR TH E F I LL ING : In clean, dry
requires cooking to do its work as a workbowl, process sugar, butter, milk
binder and stabilizing agent. Instead powder, and salt until smooth, about
I turned to chocolate chips, which I 30 seconds, scraping down sides of
melted in the microwave and stirred bowl as needed. Add cream and vanilla
into the mixture. Once cooled, the and process until fully combined, about
crust was firm—but too firm, almost A coconut cookie crust and a 15 seconds. Spread filling evenly over
chocolate topping sandwich a
candy bar–like. In my next test I added silky, creamy filling. crust. Cover pan with plastic wrap and
some corn syrup and achieved the refrigerate until filling is set and firm,
slightly softer result I was after. about 2 hours.
In most recipes, that soft middle instant pudding mix, which made the NAN AIMO BARS 4. F O R TH E TO P PI NG : Microwave
layer is made by creaming butter, con- bars too sweet. Next I tried cornstarch, Makes 18 bars chocolate chips, butter, and corn syrup
fectioners’ sugar, vanilla, and custard which I mixed with butter, sugar, and For bars with tidy edges, be sure to in bowl at 50 percent power, stirring
powder, an ingredient common in heavy cream, but it lacked flavor. Non- wipe your knife clean with a dish occasionally, until chocolate chips
Canadian kitchens. Though it’s hard to fat dry milk powder turned out to be towel after each cut. We developed this and butter are melted and mixture is
find in the United States, we found a the solution. Combined with the other recipe with Ghirardelli 60% Premium smooth, 1 to 2 minutes. Using offset
supplier and ordered some to see what ingredients, it produced a rich, buttery, Baking Chips. spatula, spread chocolate mixture evenly
it was all about. Much like instant pud- vanilla-y, salty-sweet filling with the over set filling. Refrigerate until topping
ding mix, it contains cornstarch, salt, perfect consistency. C RUST is set, about 30 minutes.
vanilla, and coloring. It didn’t taste like Nearly all the recipes I’d found ½ cup (3 ounces) bittersweet 5. Using foil overhang, lift bars out of
much on its own, but when used as the had included a matching top layer of chocolate chips pan and transfer to cutting board; dis-
base for the custard layer in the bars, it ganache made by melting chocolate 6 whole graham crackers, broken card foil. Using chef’s knife, trim outer
contributed eggy richness and a golden chips and butter. It’s hard to improve into 1-inch pieces ¼ inch of square to make neat edges
color. I needed to find a work-around on that. But adding a tablespoon of 2⁄3 cup (2 ounces) sweetened (wipe knife clean with dish towel after
for U.S. cooks. corn syrup made the ganache easier to shredded coconut each cut). Cut square into thirds to
I considered making a homemade slather over the chilled filling and gave ½ cup pecans, toasted create 3 rectangles. Cut each rectangle
custard from scratch, but the ideal the chocolate a winning shine once it ¼ cup (¾ ounce) unsweetened crosswise into 6 equal pieces. Let bars
thickness and sturdiness (I wanted the was fully set. cocoa powder sit at room temperature for 20 minutes
filling to hold its shape once sliced) Nanaimo bars, welcome to Cook’s 1⁄8 teaspoon table salt before serving. (Bars can be refriger-
proved elusive. So I experimented with Country. We are so glad you’re here. 1⁄3 cup light corn syrup ated for up to 2 days.)

16 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9
BRIOCHE
Buns and More
One simple dough, three perfect uses.
by Cecelia Jenkins

BRIOCHE, THE CLASSIC French gluten, which I needed here due to all
bread enriched with plenty of butter the fat in the dough. The second trick
and eggs, is perfect as a hamburger was a power nap. Let me explain.
bun, dinner roll, or sandwich bread. Its With 3½ cups of bread flour and a
paper-thin, amber crust; dairy-sweet full tablespoon of yeast in the mixer
flavor; impossibly soft interior; and bowl (this dough required more than
buttery aroma make it the gold stan- one packet of yeast—usually 2¼ tea-
dard in bread, no matter the format. I spoons—to help it rise under the
wanted to achieve this weight of all that
standard by employ- fat), I mixed in water
ing a straightforward Butter Makes and eggs until a
method that even nov- It Better dough formed. I then
ice bakers could use Brioche owes its rich- stopped the mixer
to make brioche buns, ness to eggs and a hefty and let the dough sit
rolls, or loaves. amount of butter in the before adding the
I started with buns. dough. With all that extra sugar, salt, and butter.
Hamburger buns are fat, many brioche recipes This resting time,
usually made from a (including ours) call for known as autolyse,
lean sandwich bread high-protein bread flour, allowed the flour to
dough; I found a which creates more glu- fully hydrate, a neces-
recipe for 12 buns ten than all-purpose flour sary step for gluten
that called for just one and thus builds extra formation. Both sugar
egg and a little butter. structure to support the and salt slow hydra-
The buns get their heavy fat. (All-purpose tion, so withholding
structure from knead- flour will work here, but them for a bit helped
ing in a stand mixer the brioche won’t stand the flour better
for about 5 min- quite as tall.) absorb the liquid and
utes—the kneading thus promoted gluten
realigns the strands of development.
gluten in the dough, creating a strong Now for the butter. Softened butter
framework that supports the buns as incorporated into the dough more
they rise and bake. This also develops easily than cold butter did; I found
the buns’ chew. that 13 tablespoons was just enough to
Brioche is made a bit differently. give the brioche a rich, buttery flavor
Since brioche dough has more eggs while still keeping the texture light
and lots more butter than sandwich and airy. After 10 minutes of knead-
bread dough does, it has a significantly ing, the dough was silky, supple, and
higher ratio of fat to flour. Fat shortens elastic. It was ready to rise.
gluten strands, inhibiting their forma- After the dough had risen for an
tion, so the butter is kneaded into the hour on the counter, it was time to
dough gradually (1 tablespoon at a shape it into buns. I found that simply
time) while the mixer is running so cupping and rolling each portion of
the gluten has enough time to develop dough against the counter pulled it
between additions. Once the butter is into a taut ball. I then flattened each
fully incorporated, the dough must be ball with the bottom of a dry measur-
kneaded for a long time to sufficiently ing cup so it would bake up into the
develop its structure. perfect bun shape.
Some brioche recipes call for a full The silky, fluffy, feather-light
45 minutes of extra kneading in the chew of these burger buns was sturdy
stand mixer, but I had a few tricks up enough to hold up to a meaty, juicy
my sleeve that I hoped would help burger without crumbling or sogging
minimize the kneading time. The first out. What’s more, the versatile dough
trick was to use bread flour instead of proved easy to shape into a pair of
all-purpose flour. Because bread flour loaves (great for morning toast) or a
has more protein than all-purpose big batch of dinner rolls. Choose your
flour does, it more readily develops own baking adventure!

18 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9
B RI OC H E H A M BU RGE R BU NS allowing each piece to incorporate be- 6. Bake until buns are deep golden B RIO C HE SAN DWIC H LOAVES
Makes 12 buns fore adding next, about 3 minutes total, brown and register 205 to 210 degrees Omit sesame seeds. After first rise,
All-purpose flour can be substituted for scraping down bowl and dough hook as in center, 18 to 20 minutes, switching divide dough into 2 equal pieces. Press
the bread flour, but the buns won’t be as needed. Continue to knead on medium and rotating sheets halfway through each piece of dough into 8 by 5-inch
tall; use the same amount of all-purpose speed until dough is elastic and pulls baking. Transfer sheets to wire racks and rectangle with long side parallel to
flour by weight, not by volume. away cleanly from sides of bowl, about let cool completely, about 30 minutes. counter edge. Working with 1 piece
10 minutes longer. Transfer dough to Serve. (Buns can be stored in zipper-lock of dough at a time, fold top edge of
32⁄3 cups (201⁄8 ounces) bread flour greased large bowl. Cover tightly with bags at room temperature for up to rectangle down to midline, pressing
1 tablespoon instant or rapid-rise yeast plastic and let rise at room temperature 2 days or frozen for up to 1 month.) to seal. Fold bottom edge of rectangle
1¼ cups (10 ounces) water, until doubled in size, about 1 hour. up to midline and pinch to seal. Flip
room temperature 3. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with TO MAK E AH EAD (BUN S) dough seam side down and gently
2 large eggs, plus 1 large egg, parchment paper. Turn out dough onto At end of step 4, cover sheets with push on ends to shape into 7 by 3-inch
lightly beaten counter and divide dough into twelve plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to rectangle. Transfer loaves, seam side
¼ cup (1¾ ounces) sugar 3-ounce portions; divide any remaining 24 hours. Let dough balls sit at room down, to two greased 8½ by 4½-inch
2½ teaspoons table salt dough evenly among portions. Work- temperature for 1 hour before proceed- loaf pans and pat gently to fill pans.
13 tablespoons unsalted butter, ing with 1 dough portion at a time, cup ing with recipe. Cover with plastic wrap and let rise
cut into 13 pieces and softened dough with your palm and roll against until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
1½ teaspoons sesame seeds (optional) counter into smooth, tight ball. Evenly B RIO CHE DINNE R RO LLS Adjust oven rack to middle position
space 6 dough balls on each prepared Omit sesame seeds. After first rise, di- and heat oven to 350 degrees. Brush
1 . Whisk flour and yeast together sheet. Using greased bottom of dry vide dough into twenty-four 1½-ounce loaves with beaten egg. Increase bak-
in bowl of stand mixer, then add measuring cup, press dough balls to portions, dividing any remaining dough ing time to 32 minutes, switching and
room-temperature water and 2 eggs. Fit 3-inch diameter, about ¾ inch thick. evenly among portions. Cup each dough rotating pans halfway through baking.
mixer with dough hook and mix on low Poke any air bubbles in dough balls with portion with your palm and roll against Let loaves cool in pans for 15 minutes.
speed until dough comes together and tip of paring knife. counter into smooth, tight ball. Place Remove loaves from pans and let cool
no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, 4. Cover loosely with plastic and let rise in greased 13 by 9-inch baking pan in completely on wire rack, about 1 hour.
scraping down bowl and dough hook at room temperature until doubled in 6 rows of 4. Cover with plastic wrap
frequently. Turn off mixer, cover bowl size, about 1 hour. Adjust oven racks to and let rise until doubled in size, about TO M AKE AHEA D
with dish towel or plastic wrap, and let upper-middle and lower-middle posi- 1 hour. Adjust oven rack to middle posi- (ROLL S A ND LOAVES)
dough stand for 15 minutes. tions and heat oven to 350 degrees. tion and heat oven to 350 degrees. Brush Before second rise, cover with plastic
2 . Add sugar and salt to dough and 5. Discard plastic and brush tops dough balls with beaten egg. Increase wrap and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
knead on medium-low speed until in- and sides of dough balls with beaten baking time to 25 minutes. Let rolls cool Let dough sit at room temperature for
corporated, about 30 seconds. Increase egg (you do not need to use all of in pan for 15 minutes, then transfer to 2 hours before baking. Increase baking
speed to medium and, with mixer it). Sprinkle tops of dough balls with wire rack and brush with 1 tablespoon time by 5 minutes.
running, add butter 1 piece at a time, sesame seeds, if using. softened unsalted butter.

Shaping Buns and Rolls

Preparing the Dough

1. Use bench scraper to cut dough, then 2. Cup each portion with your palm and FUL LY R ISE N
use scale to portion it. move in circles to make smooth balls. Buns (top) and rolls (bottom)
As the last of the butter is added to the
mixer, the dough will look loose and
thin. Don’t worry; it will come together Shaping Loaves
and tighten up to a smooth consistency
(above) with continued kneading.

B EFORE A ND AF T ER
The loaf below is
ready to be baked.

F IRST RIS E
Let the dough rise until doubled
in size, about 1 hour. 1. Press dough into rectangle, then fold 2. Fold bottom edge up to middle, pinch
top edge down to middle and press to seal. to seal, and place seam side down in pan.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 20 19 • COOK’S COUNTRY 19

Pineapple
Upside-Down
Cake
This beautiful retro
cake deserved an
update—and kicking
the can(ned pineapple)
was just the start.
by Matthew Fairman

WITH GLISTENING RINGS of

sweet-tart pineapple and ruby pops of
maraschino cherries adorning a but-
tery, tender yellow cake, the pineapple
upside-down cake is one of America’s
most iconic desserts. At its most basic,
the dessert is a stir-together yellow
cake baked atop butter, brown sugar,
canned pineapple rings, and jarred
cherries and then inverted once baked
so the fruit is on top.
My colleagues and I sampled five
recipes for this cake, and we were
surprised to find that while the cakes
looked great, they simply weren’t as
delicious or as special as they should
have been. To start, the cakes them-
selves didn’t have pineapple flavor,
and the toppings had metallic notes
from the canned fruit. The versions
we tried with chunks of fresh pineap-
ple were better, but we all missed the
retro beauty of the rings. Plus, all the
cakes we tried looked a little dull and
lacked a glossy caramel sheen.
We decided it was time for an
update. I wanted my version to have
loads of fresh pineapple flavor; a
moist, buttery, simple-to-make yellow
cake with pineapple flavor of its own;
and a stunning, glossy look that am-
plified the iconic appeal of the rings.
I began by cutting a fresh pineapple
into ½-inch-thick slices. Then I used
round cutters to punch out clean
circles and remove the tough core. I
set the rings in a greased 9-inch round
cake pan with generous amounts of
melted butter and brown sugar (which
would cook into a caramel). I then
 Key Steps

poured a simple yellow cake batter on The real revelation came when neat rounds; discard trimmings. Using
top and popped the pan into the oven. we all dug in. The rings were tender, 1¼-inch round cutter or apple corer,
Yes, the flavor of the pineapple rings juicy, and vibrant. The cake was ultra- remove core from pineapple slices to
was much fresher, but the fruit was still buttery and balanced by the complex, create rings; discard core pieces.
a little tough and the moisture it ex- heady pineapple-rum caramel soak. 3. Combine brown sugar and 1 cup
uded made the cake soggy and mushy. The essence of sunshiny pineapple pineapple juice in 12-inch skillet. Add
And the cake still didn’t look glossy or carried through the entire experi- pineapple rings to skillet in single
have its own pineapple flavor. ence, from top to bottom. This was a layer. Bring to boil over medium-high
In my next test I tried to solve the pineapple upside-down cake fit for a heat and cook until rings have soft-
sogginess problem while also doubling special occasion. ened, about 10 minutes, flipping rings
down on pineapple flavor. I grabbed halfway through cooking. Transfer
a 12-inch skillet and cooked the PI N EA P PLE U PS I DE- DOWN CAKE rings to prepared pan, placing 1 ring
stamped-out fresh pineapple rings in a Serves 8 in center of pan and arranging re- Use fresh fruit Top and tail a fresh pine-
mixture of 1 cup of pineapple juice and You will need a 3¼-inch round cutter maining 6 rings around circumference apple, and then cut off the rind.
an increased amount of brown sugar. and a 1¼-inch round cutter or apple of pan (rings will fit snugly in pan
This tenderized the fruit and cooked corer to make the pineapple rings. If without overlapping). Place cherries
off some of its juice; I hoped it would you prefer, you can substitute 2 ad- in centers of rings.
also give me more caramel to leave the ditional tablespoons of pineapple juice 4. Return brown sugar mixture to boil
cake with a gooey, glossy shine. for the rum in step 5. over medium-high heat and cook, stir-
Once I’d transferred the rings ring frequently, until rubber spatula
to the cake pan, I concentrated and 1 pineapple, peeled dragged across bottom of skillet
caramelized the mixture of juice and 1½ cups packed (10½ ounces) leaves trail that fills in slowly, bubbles
sugar in the pan by simmering it until light brown sugar increase in size, and mixture registers
it was sticky and syrupy; I then added 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons pineapple 260 degrees, 3 to 6 minutes. Care-
butter to create a pineapple-flavored juice, divided fully stir in 12 tablespoons butter and
caramel sauce. Half the sauce went 7 maraschino cherries, stemmed ½ teaspoon salt until butter is melted
into the cake pan with the pineapple. and patted dry (caramel may look separated at first).
While the cake baked, I thinned out 12 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut Return mixture to boil and cook until
the remainder of the pineapple cara- into 12 pieces, plus 8 tablespoons frothy and uniform in texture, about
mel with some dark rum—to cut the melted 1 minute. Let caramel cool off heat Create rings Use round cutters to re-
sweetness and add aromatic complex- 1 teaspoon table salt, divided for 5 minutes. move the tough core from the slices.
ity—and a bit more fresh pineapple 2 tablespoons dark rum 5. Transfer caramel to 4-cup liquid
juice for vibrancy. Then, while the 1½ cups (7½ ounces) all-purpose flour measuring cup. Pour ¾ cup caramel
cake cooled, I poked holes all over it 1 teaspoon baking powder evenly over pineapple rings, gently
with a toothpick and brushed most 1 cup (7 ounces) granulated sugar shaking pan to distribute. Whisk rum
of my pineapple-rum caramel on top ½ cup whole milk and remaining 2 tablespoons pineapple
to let it soak in. I reserved just a little 2 large eggs juice into remaining caramel; set aside.
bit of the caramel to brush on right 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 6. Whisk flour, baking powder, and
before serving. remaining ½ teaspoon salt together
As I turned out this new, juiced-up 1. Adjust oven rack to middle position in bowl. Whisk granulated sugar,
version of my cake, I was delighted to and heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease milk, eggs, and vanilla in large bowl
find that it looked positively stunning. 9-inch round cake pan, line with parch- until smooth, about 1 minute. Whisk
There was just enough extra pine- ment paper, and grease parchment. 8 tablespoons melted butter into milk
apple caramel to leave a few drips on 2. Cut seven ½-inch-thick crosswise mixture until combined. Whisk flour
the platter and create the right gooey slices from pineapple. (Reserve remain- mixture into milk mixture until no dry
consistency and glossy shine, but not ing pineapple for another use.) Using flour remains.
so much as to make the cake soggy. 3¼-inch round cutter, cut slices into 7. Transfer batter to prepared pan and Cook rings in syrup Simmer the rings in
smooth top with rubber spatula. Bake pineapple juice and brown sugar.
until light golden brown and toothpick
BACKSTORY inserted in center comes out clean,
50 minutes to 1 hour.
It’s hard to overstate just how glamorous pineapples 8. Transfer pan to wire rack. Imme-
were in Renaissance Europe. After Christopher Colum- diately run paring knife between cake
bus presented a pineapple to King Ferdinand II of Aragon and sides of pan. Using toothpick,
in 1496 following his second voyage to the Caribbean, the poke about 80 holes evenly over cake.
fruit became a culinary status symbol. It was so closely Microwave reserved caramel mixture
associated with European aristocracy that by the start until warm, about 1 minute. Brush
Illustration: © Smithsonian Libraries

of the English Civil War in 1642, it was a reviled symbol of cake with ½ cup reserved caramel
excess. But the fruit bounced back, becoming a motif of mixture. Let cake cool in pan for
luxury carved into mahogany bedposts, painted into por- 25 minutes. Carefully invert cake onto
traits, and etched into ivory boxes. People who’d never serving plate. Brush top of cake with
tasted one had images of them on their wallpaper. remaining reserved caramel mixture
It wasn’t until the late 19th century that pineapple cultivation truly took hold in as desired. Serve warm or at room
Hawaii. By 1930, the islands led the world in pineapple production. Today, the top three temperature, passing any remaining Reduce syrup Remove the cooked rings
pineapple producers are Costa Rica, Brazil, and the Philippines. caramel mixture separately. and boil the syrup down to a rich caramel.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 20 19 • COOK’S COUNTRY 23

 COOKING CLASS

Husk-Grilled Corn by Matthew Fairman

A simple two-step grilling process produces the best grilled corn you’ve ever eaten.

B
OILED CORN ON the 2A. F OR A C H A RC O A L G RI L L :
cob slathered with butter is Open bottom vent completely. Light
an American summertime large chimney starter mounded with
tradition. We love corn pre- charcoal briquettes (7 quarts). When
pared this way—its clean, sweet flavor top coals are partially covered with ash,
shines bright. But corn is capable of pour evenly over half of grill. Set cook-
expressing itself in deeper, more flavor- ing grate in place, cover, and open lid
ful ways. When grilled, it picks up tasty vent completely. Heat grill until hot,
browning and intensifies in flavor, and about 5 minutes.
melted butter adds a finishing touch. If 2B. F O R A GAS G R I LL : Turn all
you’ve never tried grilling corn, this is burners to high, cover, and heat grill
the recipe to get you started. until hot, about 15 minutes. Leave all
burners on high.
HUS K-GR ILL ED CO RN 3. Place corn on grill (on hotter side if
WITH SE ASO NE D BUTTE R using charcoal, with stem ends facing
Serves 6 cooler side). Cover and cook, turning
Look for ears of corn with green husks corn every 3 minutes, until husks are
and golden-brown (not dark-brown) blackened all over, 12 to 15 minutes.
silk protruding from the tops. Also look Transfer corn to cutting board. Using
for ears of similar size so they cook at chef’s knife, cut stem end off each ear
the same rate. The seasoned butter can of corn. Holding 1 ear at a time with
be made ahead and refrigerated, but let dish towel, use tongs to peel away and
it come to room temperature before discard husks and silk.
using. Set up a cutting board and knife 4. Roll each ear in butter mixture on
next to your grill to avoid traveling back plate to coat lightly, letting excess
and forth between the kitchen and grill. butter mixture drip back onto plate.
Return corn to grill (on hotter side
6 ears corn, unshucked if using charcoal). Cook, uncovered,
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, turning corn as needed to char lightly
softened on each side, about 5 minutes. Remove
½ teaspoon table salt corn from grill and roll each ear in
½ teaspoon pepper remaining butter mixture on plate.
Transfer corn to platter. Serve, passing
1 . Cut and remove silk protruding reserved butter mixture separately.
from top of each ear of corn. Com-
bine butter, salt, and pepper in bowl. Want to take a deep dive into corn?
Transfer 3 tablespoons butter mixture Web subscribers can read our “Getting
to large plate. Set aside remaining but- to Know” feature on this staple at
ter mixture. CooksCountry.com/gtkcorn.

Step by Step

1. Cut and remove silk 2. Make seasoned butter 3. Light grill 4. Grill corn in husk 5. Cut off stem end of corn
Use a chef’s knife to slice off the Combine the softened butter, salt, If using charcoal, light a full chim- Cook the corn on the hotter Holding the corn with a dish towel
silk at the end of each ear. and pepper in a bowl. ney of briquettes; when the coals part of the grill, turning it every or tongs, use a chef’s knife to cut
Why? If left on, the silk would Why? Softening the butter helps are ready, pour them into an even 3 minutes, until the husks are off the stem end of each ear.
burn and smolder. the salt and pepper incorporate pile over half the grill. If using gas, blackened all over. Why? Removing the stem end
evenly; it also means the butter turn all the burners to high. Why? The husk traps the corn’s makes removing the husk and
will more readily adhere to the hot Why? We want a very hot fire for natural moisture to create steam silk easier.
corn later. this recipe. that cooks the corn through.

24 C O O K ’ S C O U N T R Y • A U G U S T / S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 9
Ears: Choose ears that
feel heavy for their size

THE
Flavor-Packed Butters for Husk-Grilled Corn

AMERICAN BROWN SUGAR –CAY E NNE BU TTER

TABLE Stir 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper into
Husks:
Look for deep In 1950, archaeologist Paul Sidney Martin butter mixture in step 1.
green husks was on a field trip to the Tularosa River
in New Mexico, hoping to find artifacts C ILANTRO -L IM E BUTTER
related to the ancestral Pueblo (Anasazi) Stir ¼ cup minced fresh cilantro leaves,
Silk: people. But among the artifacts he found 2 teaspoons lime zest plus 1 tablespoon
Look for dry, were thousands of cobs of dried corn, or juice, and 1 minced small garlic clove into
golden-brown silk
maize, in a cave in a bluff over the river. butter mixture in step 1.
Thanks to radiocarbon dating, research-
Shop Talk ers found that some of the cobs were
Markets sell different varieties of corn 2,500 years old, predating the Pueblo
(Butter and Sugar, Buttergold, Sunglow, by centuries, which suggested that this
etc.), but in our experience there’s not a crop had been developed and cultivated
lot of difference in flavor or sweetness. thousands of years earlier than previously
The best advice is to buy locally grown assumed. The discovery further deepened
corn when you can. corn’s roots in American food history.

Essential Gear: Grill Tongs

A good pair of grill tongs should be able to handle anything you throw onto your grill—
from delicate asparagus spears to floppy, unruly racks of ribs. Our winning tongs are agile
but also sturdy and durable, with just the right amount of spring-loaded tension. And at
16 inches, they are just long enough to keep your hands away from the heat but short
enough to give great leverage and control. They truly are best in show.

ROSEM ARY-PE PPER BUTT ER

Increase pepper to 1 teaspoon and stir
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary and
1 minced small garlic clove into butter
T EST K ITCHE N FAVO RI TE
OXO Good Grips 16" Locking Tongs, $15 mixture in step 1.

MUSTARD-PAPRIK A BUTTER
Our Hybrid Grilling Method Stir 2 tablespoons spicy brown mustard
Shucked corn that’s grilled often picks up nice char but doesn’t cook through. Corn and 1 teaspoon smoked paprika into
that’s grilled unshucked will steam to tenderness but will lack flavorful char. Our butter mixture in step 1.
method provides the best aspects of both methods—tender kernels with flavorful
char (and lots of butter).

6. Remove husk and silk 7. Butter corn 8. Grill buttered corn 9. Roll in butter again 10. Serve, passing extra butter
Hold one ear at a time with a Use your hands to roll each Return the husked, buttered corn Spin each ear in the seasoned This corn tastes best warm from
clean dish towel and use tongs to husked ear in the seasoned but- to the hotter part of the grill and butter a second time to add flavor the grill, with extra butter passed
remove the husk and silk. ter, letting the excess drip off. cook, turning the ears as needed, to the now-charred kernels. at the table.
Why? The corn is hot, and the Why? The heat from the corn until charred, about 5 minutes. Why? We want lots of flavorful Why? Because butter and corn
towel and tongs protect your warms the butter and encourages Why? The butter encourages butter on the corn. are a perfect match.
fingers. The husk comes off more full coverage. Letting excess but- flavorful browning and char on
easily once grilled, too. ter drip off helps reduce flare-ups the corn.
when the corn returns to the grill.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019 • COOK’S COUNTRY 25