PECU. 2010. Singh Rana P.B. Ed. 2010 PDF
PECU. 2010. Singh Rana P.B. Ed. 2010 PDF
Editor
Rana P. B. Singh
Banaras Hindu University, India
Sacred Geography of Goddesses in South Asia:
Essays in Memory of David Kinsley
Edited by Rana P. B. Singh
All rights for this book reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in
a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of
the copyright owner.
“David Kinsley has left a legacy of research that will lead scholars and
students into the next millennium. His love of India is reflected in his
many works, not the least of which deal with Indian goddess figures and
sacred geography. His work has enabled not only Indologists but
academics dealing with Women and Religion to build new theory and
rhetoric. It is fitting that a Festschrift on just those topics is composed in
his honour, focusing sacred geography of goddesses. These essays will
lead us moving in wider horizon of feminine divine and their universal
importance.”
―Prof. Phyllis K. Herman,
Religious Studies, California State University, Northridge, USA
Sacred Geography of Goddesses in South Asia vii
“This volume is a beautiful tribute to the work and spirit of David Kinsley,
whose sacred persistence in tracking down goddesses to get us thinking
about the Goddess illumined so much for all of us. His work has a strong
hold on us even ten years after his sad passing, and this book will make
that hold even more secure. This fine work of the contributors and the
editor may be said to map David Kinsley’s project onto ongoing
theological and ecological concerns of the 21st century”.
―Prof. Alf Hiltebeitel,
Dept. of Religion, George Washington University, USA
“The multiple forms and the immanence of the great goddess in Hindu
India can be located in her sacred sites, primal landscapes, temples, and
pilgrimage networks. The fifteen essays in this volume examine varied
models and metaphors of the goddess through the lens of sacred
geography of India. The book is a wonderful blend of interdisciplinary and
contextual research. It will serve as a reliable guide to the newly emergent
field of Goddess Studies”.
―Prof. Madhu Khanna,
Comparative Religion and Civilizations, J.M. Islamia University, India
“David Kinsley was a gentleman and a scholar, and when I say gentleman
I mean gentle man. I will never forget how, in the spring of 1985, he
invited the small community of American scholars living in Banaras (I
was a grad student at the time) to his home for a Sader, a celebration of the
Jewish festival of Purim. Neither I nor half of the other people attending
(nor David, as far as I know) were Jewish, but that evening of fellowship,
sparked by David’s natural warmth and charm, was deeply moving.
That’s how David was. That’s who David was. On these lines of thought
and reflections this festschrift is a testimony to David’s contributions to
study of goddesses and sacred geography”.
―Prof. David Gordon White,
Religious Studies, University of California, Santa Barbara, USA
~~~
Dedicated to
David R. Kinsley
(born 25 April 1939, died 25 April 2000),
INTRODUCTION ............................................................................................. 1
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley
─Rana P.B. Singh (Banaras Hindu University, India)
Chapter 1 .................................................................................................. 17
The Legacy of David R. Kinsley: Appraising his Contributions
─Richard Mann (Carleton University, Canada)
Chapter 2 .................................................................................................. 45
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India: Spatiality and Symbolism
─Rana P.B. Singh & Ravi S. Singh (Banaras Hindu University, India)
Chapter 3 .................................................................................................. 79
Mental Journeys, Cosmic Geography and Intermediary Space:
Shrichakra and Shrichakrapujā
─Annette Wilke (University of Münster, Germany)
NOTE: In all the essays diacritical marks have been kept only for long ‘a’ as
ā, and not used for other words.
LIST OF TABLES
10.1. Kāshi: Goddesses and associated deities on the Cosmic Circuit ... 255
10.2. Varanasi: The Kshetra Devis ......................................................... 274
10.3. Goddesses on the Panchakroshi Route, Varanasi .......................... 279
10.4. Varanasi: Other Goddesses (cf. Appendix 1, Group 11) ............... 281
10.5. Panel II (Lower part, representing dehudi (Gate) .......................... 291
10.6. Panel III (Middle most: Mandapas) ............................................... 292
10.7. Panel IV (Upper most part in elliptically shaped space ................. 293
xiv Table of Contents
LIST OF FIGURES
2.1. India: 51 Shakti Pithas ....................................................................... 55
2.2. India: 108 Shakti Pithas (as in the MtP) ............................................ 59
2.3. The Gangā river, Gangāisation and Kumbha sites............................. 65
2.4. The Gangā River and Sacred places .................................................. 67
2.5. The Gangā River source: Tributaries and Sacred places ................... 68
2.6. India: The Holy Hills, Rivers and Forests ......................................... 72
10.1. Kāshi: Ancient Shiva and Devi shrines making hexagram............ 253
10.2. Kāshi Mandala: Sacred Yātrās and Deities................................... 254
10.3. Varanasi: The Kshetra Rakshikā Devis ......................................... 258
10.4. Varanasi: The Yoginis ................................................................... 259
10.5. Varanasi: The Durgās .................................................................... 262
10.6. Durgākund area.............................................................................. 264
10.7. Durgā Temple complex: Sacred Sites and Images......................... 265
10.8. Varanasi: The Gauris ..................................................................... 269
10.9. Varanasi: The Mātrikās.................................................................. 271
10.10. Varanasi: The Chandis................................................................. 272
10.11. Varanasi: The Kshetra Devis ....................................................... 273
10.12. Varanasi: The Dash Mahāvidyas ................................................. 277
10.13. Goddesses on the Panchakroshi Route, Varanasi ........................ 280
10.14. Varanasi, Sankudhārā area: Shrines and temples......................... 286
10.15. Varanasi: Lakshmikund Kshetra and Goddesses’ shrines ........... 288
10.16. Mahāmāyā Temple ...................................................................... 290
10.17. Mahāmāyā Temple: Mural plans, II Panel................................... 291
10.18. Mahāmāyā Temple: Mural plans, III Panel ................................. 292
10.19. Mahāmāyā Temple: Mural plans, IV Panel ................................. 293
10.20. Varanasi: Distribution of Goddess shrines .................................. 296
13.1. The Gangā River basin (after Singh 2009a: 270) ......................... 353
xvi Table of Contents
14.1. Green Tārā on the South Wall, Alcove of Avalokiteshvara ......... 377
14.2. Dhanada Tārā in the upper left corner of the painting ................... 378
14.3. Dhanada Tārā in the upper right corner of the painting ................. 379
14.4. Dhanada Tārā in the lower left corner of the painting ................... 380
14.5. Dhanada Tārā in the lower right corner of the painting ................. 381
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
condolence, we all express our joining with you the moment of grief,
suffering and isolation.
We all feel that David’s great contributions on the goddesses of India
and other religious cultures will constantly show us a shining path to
march, and through his contributions he would be remembered forever.
Carolyn – your invisible contributions and insights in making David such
a great scholar would also be equally remembered”.
One of his students, Alan Mendelson, narrated the story of David’s last
journey in ‘obituary’:
“In January of this year, David was diagnosed with inoperable lung
cancer. Instead of trying to hide his condition, he began to tell his
innumerable friends. What ensued was a remarkable outpouring of
affection and love which, David acknowledged, buoyed him up. He talked
with remarkable candour about his disease and its prognosis. He admitted
that he was afraid. He also admitted that when he could not sleep at night,
he would sometimes weep. We understood that he cried not because he
felt sorry for himself, but because he so loved life in all its infinite variety.
Visiting David in his last illness was a strangely exhilarating
experience. One would leave him filled with awe for the drama of human
courage unfolding before one’s eyes. David disliked complaining, and
even in his terrible illness he found much for which to be grateful,
especially the gift of time: time to remember his wonderful life, time to
express his love for family and friends, time to write a poem inspired by
the Navaho Beautyway Chant:
On a beautiful trail
I have wandered
With beauty behind me,
Beside me, below me,
Above me, and before me ―
Beauty all around me.
At the end of my life,
Filled with gratitude,
I wander in beauty.
In his last weeks, David Kinsley seems to have set certain dates which
he hoped to reach. First, he aimed for the mid-winter break so that he
would not leave his students in the lurch. Then, that achieved, he aimed
for the end of the semester. This too he managed. Ironically his last class
was in one of the courses he had pioneered ― Health, Healing and
Religion. Ever the teacher, David prepared a final lecture on the patient as
learner. The last date David set was his 61st birthday, 25 April 2000 at
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley 3
2:00 a.m. on that very day, he passed away; he had always loved to
celebrate his birthday”.
David wished that the following prayer to the ‘Sublime spirit of
Mother Mature’ from the Upanishad be read at his funeral: “From the
falseness lead me to the truth/ From darkness lead me to light/ and From
death lead me to immortality; Om (the universal sound of God) Let there
be Peace, Peace and only Peace” [Asato mā sad gamāyā/ Tamaso mā
jyotir gamāyā, Mrityur mā amritam gamāyā; Om Shānti Shānti Shāntih”
(as in the Brihadāranyak Upanishad, 1.3.27-28). This was done. There
was no need for a formal eulogy, for a life of virtue creates its own eulogy.
Let us keep the spirit always awakened and pray the Mother to always
direct us on the right path, what David Kinsley wished. The present
anthology is one of such memorial attempts.
In the condolence meeting, 9th May 2000, it was sentimentally
resolved to have a memorial volume in honour of David Kinsley, and the
sole responsibility was entrusted upon me. The first letter of request for
this noble task was sent to several scholars and David’s students on 25
July 2000 asking for submitting title and abstract of paper/s by 31
December 2000. It was a difficult task to have a thematic symmetry and
corresponding similarities. The focal theme chosen has been ‘Sacred
Geography of Goddesses’, the theme introduced by David in his book on
Hindu Goddesses (1986).
Being a cultural geographer and a friend of David for last sixteen
years, I personally learnt several concepts and frames that constitute the
web of sacrality imbued in and reflected with respect to space, time,
functions, functionaries, images, ritualscapes and the faithscapes. I first
met David in January 1984 and since then every year we shared and co-
shared our common experiences concerning deeper understanding of spirit
of place (genus loci). This discourse continued till our last meeting on 15th
December 1999.
The Rig Veda (1.164.24) describes the Gāyatri as the sound of life on
the Earth and the way to know the cosmic order (rita) linking the Earth to
the universe. The imagination of Father-Sky and the Mother-Earth is a
very old idea. This myth serves as model for human behaviour, “That is
why human marriage is regarded as an imitation of the cosmic hierogamy.
“I am Heaven”, the husband proclaims in the Brihadāranyak Upanishad
(6.4.20), “Thou art Earth”. As early as in the Atharva Veda (12.1.), a 10th
century BCE text, the Earth as mother goddess is prayed vividly:
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley 5
also been raised. Moreover, the scholar analyses rather attempts to link the
socio-cultural practices, with regard to women (/gender) issue, with the
goddess’s image as explained in the textual and philosophical tradition.
And, finally concludes saying then it may very well be possible for Indian
women to appropriate these images in ways that ‘are more empowering
than the ways in which they have been appropriated in the past’ (p. 215).
Sunder Rajan (1998) also makes a brief effort to reflect the connections
between the Hindu goddess and feminism, between ‘religious feminism’
and contemporary socio-political standing of women and so on.
Like most of the Asian traditions in Hindu traditions there has been a
strong concern for the sacredness, or inherent value, of nature. Remarks
Kinsley (1995: 53): “In India, a variety of natural phenomena – rivers,
mountains, the wind, fire, and the earth itself – are personified as great
deities”. He further adds: “The idea of the sacrality of the land…. is also
expressed in Hinduism in a variety of stories, myths, and legends. As in
many native cultures, many Hindus consider the Indian landscape alive
and as having a story that defines and orients all those who dwell within it.
For many Hindus, Hindu identity is defined and determined by being born
and living in India. In essence, one becomes a Hindu by learning the story
of the land, by apprehending the inherent sacredness of the land” (ibid.:
58). He notes, “All over India, shrines and temples are identified with
certain parts of Sati’s (Shiva’s wife). In this way, the entire Indian
landscape is concretely associated with the physical body of a goddess.
The goddess’s body symbolises the land upon which people live, and the
land is therefore given reverence and respect” (ibid.: 59).
All the places inherently possess the power of spirit; however some
have more intense, strong and radiant powers, what may be called as
‘intrinsic sacredness’ (ibid.: 60). In Hindu belief systems the ‘land’ (place)
is lived by its vibration, healing quality, aesthetical values, sense of
wilderness, and also maintaining the continuity of cultural performances
that evolved in the ancient past. These performances predominated by
varieties and distinctive rituals from one region to another and on the path
of ‘space’ and through the channel of ‘time’ possess and convey man’s
interrelatedness with nature and human conscience of awe, wonder,
gratitude, and respect.
geography has taken a serious concern by the spatial turn and post-
modernistic thoughts since 1980s. Also, spatial sense has opened a fresh
insight to understand sacrality and religious notions too. Sacred carto-
graphy and sacred geometry together provided spatial vision to sacred
geography (cf. Knott 2005: 11-20). The ‘spatial’ is a social construct as
many theorists thought, nevertheless it is also a spiritual, visual, contextual
and emotional notion that human beings possess inherently. It may be
projected metaphorically, metaphysically and mystically, and also all-
together what in Greek thought called cosmos.
In the frame of sacred geography in Māyā culture such notions are
linked to geographic features and associated gods and beliefs (cf. Bassie-
Sweet 2008). However in a recent study sacred complex of holy city of
Puri is studied on the line of sacred geography, emphasising structure,
organisation and its cultural role in the formation of a sacred centre
(Patnaik 2006). While another study projects the cosmic geometry and
spatial ordering of sacred cities in India (cf. Singh 2009b). Such studies
indicate the increasing quest and fascination to understand and experience
sacred geography.
In the prime conception of sacred geography it is believed that
divinities are also “born of the earth, of space, of the sea, and of the starry
sky, they are still here among us, still alive. Among the inspiring ruins of
the great temples, the sleeping gods are always ready to be revived” (cf.
Richer 1995: xxi). Three broad areas of research emphasised in the study
of sacred geography, especially projecting sacred places are: (a) the ritual-
spatial context of sacred place at various levels of social organisations ―
individual, family, society and, cultural group ― and in different contexts
and ways; (b) the growth of meanings and feelings attached to sacred
places, taking history as a means to elucidate the sequences of their
existence, continuity and’ maintenance; and (c) a typology of sacred
places in terms of contrasts, similarities and degrees of manifest powers
(cf. Singh 2009a: 236-237).
Lane (2001: 15) suggests four axioms associated with the character and
layout of sacred places; they are particularly useful in understanding the
relationship between human beings and environment ― the frame of
sacred geography. These four phenomenological axioms are:
1. Sacred place is not chosen, it chooses. It is a construction of the
imagination that affirms the independence of holy. God chooses to
reveal himself only where he wills. It is perceived as a place quietly
seeking a person out, whispering beyond all the previous efforts to
locate and fix the place of power.
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley 9
(1984: 208) claims that religious activity embraces both worlds, with
no distinction drawn between the pragmatic and the transcendent:
“religious activities at such shrines are both matters for making merit
for the eternal life and means of gaining benefits in this world.”
4. For the Sacredscape history matters. Says Lewis (1979: 22): “That is,
we do what we do, and make what we make because our doings and
our makings are inherited from the past.” The sacredscapes are the
cultural heritage resource where history matters. The symbolism,
mythology, ritualisation process and the ultimate faithscape evolved
― all are the subject to the historical process of transformation and
human adaptation.
5. The Sacredscapes make little sense if out from sacred ecology. Human
psyche and manifestive power in the sacredscape are the basic
elements for making it existent and continue. They have specific
location interpreted in a broader context of symbolism and where
divine power is perceived by human being in transcendental form of
consciousness. They replicate the macrocosm on the earth as
mesocosm which is further revealed at the level of microcosm (human
mind and faith, or an individual shrine or temple).
6. The messages conveyed by Sacredscapes are obscure. As the human
psyche varies from one to another, local to regional, and the
“messages” conveyed are so varied that making broad generalization
is not possible. For understanding and analysis several set of questions
be put before into the habit of asking them simply by doing so: What
does it look like? How does it work? Who designed it? Why? When?
What does it tell us about the way our society and culture work? To
understand the message, one has to be a part of the pilgrimage itself as
a pilgrim, avoiding completely looking like a pilgrim. This requires a
deep sense for the cultural tradition and also a feeling of faith in the
frame the followers follow. The landscape, especially sacredscape,
communicates, but only to those who can read its messages (Faulstich
1994: 12).
1) as Nature. The sky above, the ground beneath, and the horizon binding
the two provide the basic frame as theologically expressed: sky the
father, earth the mother, thus we all are brothers and sisters. The sacral
power perceived by human being in history was in fact a realisation of
nature-spirit.
2) as Habitat. Every landscape is a piece of the Earth as Home of
Mankind. Man constantly works as a viable agent of transformation
and change and creator of resources (like heritage). In short, man is
domesticating and cosmicising the earth.
3) as Artefact. Man in the process of transformation and change sets his
mark on the landscape. The monuments, shrines, temples and related
structure ― all are the testimony of human’s imprint on the sacred
territory ― visible as artefact in the sacredscape.
4) as System. Man and his interaction with the sacredscape form an
intricate system of systems ― some visible, but many invisible. This
system in itself is a part of belief that implies a faith in man as
essentially omniscient ― after all he is also a part of the cosmos and
God. In cosmos one is related to other, and everything is related to die
other like a ‘Self-regulating system’ what is narrated in the Gaia
hypothesis.
5) as Problem. To know more in order to understand better is a notion to
achieve the religious merit more perfectly and also to make rituals
better for deeper experiences. As human being the performer may
incorporate something from all these other views: it evokes a
reverence for nature, a deeply felt concern for the earth as habitat, and
a conviction that as a child of the divinity we can search our identity
in the cosmos.
6) as Wealth. In a broader view, for everything has or affects value within
a market economy. As heritage resource sacredscapes and their
associated monuments and functions to be appraised as property for
monetary transaction like development of pilgrimage-tourism. This
view of sacredscape is future-oriented, for market values are always
undergoing change and one must assess their trends and demands in
future. Of course, this notion is completely a western idea, rooted in
American ideology. However for maintenance and preservation of
sacredscapes, market-oriented value system to be promoted, of course
with care and cautions, as a viable strategy.
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley 13
7. References
Bassie-Sweet, Karen 2008. Maya Sacred Geography and the Creator
Deities. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman.
Visioning Sacred Geography: Remembering David Kinsley 15
----------------------------------------------
Richard D. Mann
Carleton University, Canada
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. Writing about the legacy of David Kinsley has both been an
honour and a challenge. David’s writing style was lucid and eloquent, and
a wonderful reminder of the ability of words when used well to
communicate. In this regard I have separated this essay into two sections.
The first section deals with his research and scholarship. I have divided
this section into three parts: Krishna Publications, Course Text
Publications and Goddesses Publications. My goal in this section is to give
a comprehensive overview of Kinsley’s publications and the impact of his
work on the scholarly community. The second section deals with my
memories of David as a teacher and the final few months of his life. I
have, then, tried not to allow this account of Kinsley’s legacy to become a
legendary account of him. I hope it succeeds is representing David’s
legacy in a manner that is both responsible and sympathetic to the spirit of
his life and work.
Keywords. Krishna, Devi, lilā, Hinduism, cultural perspective, sacred
ecology, sacred geography.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Krishna Publications
David Robert Kinsley’s earliest work relates to the cult of Krishna
primarily in relation to the Bengal Vaishnava theology of lilā, or divine
play. David’s PhD dissertation, “The Divine Player: A Study of Krishna-
lilā”, became the source for his first articles and books. After he completed
his PhD from the University of Chicago in 1970, he joined the Department
of Religious Studies at McMaster University, Hamilton, Ontario, Canada,
18 1. Richard D. Mann
and had continued there till his last breathe. During his first decade at
McMaster he produced a number of articles and books related to Krishna
and lilā: “Without Krishna There is no Song” (1972), “Through the
Looking Glass’: Divine Madness in the Hindu Religious Tradition”
(1974), The Sword and the Flute: Kāli and Krishna, Dark Visions of the
Terrible and the Sublime in Hindu Mythology (1975), “Creation as Play in
Hindu Spirituality” (1974/75) and The Divine Player: A Study of Krishna-
lilā (1979). There is some overlap between these publications and instead
of addressing each publication individually; I will limit my discussion to
David’s overall themes with this material.
There may be few harder concepts to impart to a western audience than
the idea of lilā. For many western students the idea that the divine creates
and acts in the world in order to play with it is initially perceived as a
profoundly negative theology. Much of David’s early work seeks to
explain the logic of this theology in a positive manner largely by taking his
direction from the perception of Krishna provided by the Hindu tradition.
He introduces the topic in The Divine Player by suggesting that the theme
of play and religion has not been properly appreciated as a positive
religious activity. He argues that the Hindu concept of play demonstrates
some fundamental ideas of Hinduism and religion in general (1979: ix-xi).
Among these fundamental ideals is an understanding of play as a
reflection of the unconditioned nature of certain playful deities. Kinsley
demonstrates that playful deities are completely free to act as they please
without concern for any other motivation than their own pleasure. As such
lilā is a means to express divine action and involvement in the world
without presenting the divine as dependent on the world.
David’s principle example of this divine play as an expression of the
freedom and spontaneity of the divine is the youthful Krishna dwelling in
Vrindāvana (1975: 13-17). The point he attempts to demonstrate here is
that Krishna lacks nothing desires nothing and does not have to act. The
theology of lilā suggests that the divine does not act out of a need or
obligation, but instead acts through spontaneous and overflowing joy
(1975: 73, 1979: 1-10). Play also represents a means for humankind to
transcend to the divine. Here Kinsley’s example is the play, or the
madness, of the saints (1974/75, 1979: x-xii). He suggests that the play of
Krishna and his devotees is an indication of their transcendent nature.
Kinsley also uses the youthful Krishna to illustrate the importance of
bhakti, devotion, in the tradition. He reads Krishna’s play as a young child
to indicate his approachability and intimacy with his devotees; he can be
approached with the same ease that a mother would approach her child
(1975: 18). His play as an adolescent models his role as a divine lover.
The Legacy of David Kinsley 19
Like the call of his flute, Krishna is irresistible to the gopis of Vrindāvana,
to Rādhā and to his devotees (1975: 61-65, 1979: 78-102). Kinsley argues
that Krishna’s love play is an expression of the supremacy of bhakti in the
tradition. Hence, he argues, an essential aspect of the divine that Krishna
and his lilā exhibit is ānanda, bliss (1975: 66, 1979: 103). In his
discussions of both lilā and ānanda David goes into some detail to explain
the Bengal Vaishnava understanding of the nature of Krishna, Rādhā,
Vrindāvana and devotees (1975: 64-72, 1979: 103-110).
David’s work on Krishna has not always been as well received as his
later work on Hindu goddesses. A common complaint is that there is little
new in the material he surveys or in his interpretation of it (Bryant 1976:
564, Dimock 1979: 276, O’Connell 1976: 171, Sternbach 1977: 363). One
cannot argue with these criticisms, and David never claimed to be
employing new resources or to be adding startling new interpretations of
lilā or Krishna. I do, however, think that many of these critics miss part of
the point of Kinsley’s work on Krishna. His work demonstrates the need to
explain these concepts through the interpretive categories of Hinduism,
and the great merit in presenting these challenging ideas in an accessible
manner. There is much more to Kinsley’s written style than just an ability
to communicate his ideas in a clear manner, however. As Joseph
O’Connell suggests, there is something of a “hermeneutical experiment”
in the way Kinsley uses words to express ideas about Krishna (1976: 171).
He comments:
Kinsley binds together a wide sampling of poetry about Krishna with
his own ebullient and evocative prose commentary.... By this juxtaposition
of formal poetry and almost confessional prose comment, he manages to
suggest for the reader something of the variation in the Hindu believer’s
experience of Krishna, at times manifested in the lofty universal forms of
poetry and ritual, and at times in the casual intimacy of a familiar personal
presence.... the hermeneutical experiment... is significant, rather daring,
and brilliantly executed. (1976: 171).
I think O’Connell’s insight here frames David’s work on Krishna in an
appropriate manner. Kinsley’s work on Krishna tends to be dismissed as
of value only to students, but of little value in advancing the field of
scholarly knowledge on Krishna. I think most of those making such claims
have failed to appreciate the ability of David’s words to reflect a Hindu
sensibility of what Krishna represents to his devotees. While one could not
argue that Kinsley’s work on Krishna represents all Hindu sentiments
related to this deity, one does, through his words, gain an understanding of
some devotional experiences of Krishna.
20 1. Richard D. Mann
This text was David’s first attempt to write a book specifically aimed
for use in university classes and remains one of his most well read books.
Some thirteen years ago now I sat in a first year university classroom
reading this book, and I can say without too much hyperbole that this text
and that course changed the direction of my studies and subsequent life.
Like many undergraduate students in North America, this text was my first
academic encounter with India and Hinduism, and its effect remains with
us today.
Hinduism is divided into two sections. Part one provides an overview
of the history of the tradition, aspects of its art and aspects of dissent from
dominant forms of the tradition. David does not seek for a comprehensive
account of the tradition here, rather his approach is thematic. He does not
cover every historical figure in the tradition, but provides specific
examples with which to illustrate his larger points. This approach has left
some to question why certain figures were left out of the text (Stevenson
1982: 335), but the text’s strong emphasis on interpreting the tradition
makes up for these absences. Part two presents an analysis of the tradition.
Here we see more of the underlying themes of the tradition explored from
a variety of different sources. As with much of Kinsley’s interpretations of
Hinduism, he allows the tradition to speak for itself as much as possible.
His overarching analysis in this text is a tension between dharma and
moksha found within the tradition. He suggests that this tension is both a
dynamic tension creating a means of drawing together elements of both
concepts, and also a stratifying aspect of the tradition delineating social,
The Legacy of David Kinsley 21
religious and gender roles. The end result is an account of the great
diversity of the tradition without becoming lost in the diversity itself.
This text is also based on a course David taught at McMaster for many
years. The topic of the course and text were also important to David. He
and his wife, Carolyn Kinsley, were committed to a number of ecological
and environmental groups and causes in the Hamilton area. Ecology and
Religion was, then, something of a reflection of the Kinsley family’s
personal commitment to this topic. As with many of David’s courses and
texts, there is an undercurrent in this text of transforming society through
his academic work.
Kinsley’s goal in this text is to give depth to current discussions
surrounding ecology and religion. He provides this depth by arguing that
many of the current ideas found in ecological spirituality are not ‘new,’
but are also found in other cultures, traditional cultures and in some
Christian thought (1995: xiii). Implicit through Kinsley’s presentation of
this material is that religious attitudes and beliefs construct something of a
world view that impacts one’s approach towards the environment. Part of
the unstated goal of this text is to critique what might be called the
“dominant paradigm” in North America today by presenting other ideas
related to ecology from both within and without North American culture
(1995: 231).
interpretative perspective that follows in the rest of the text. The approach
is not accidental. The second and third sections represent two aspects of
dominant culture in the west: Christianity and modern science. In centring
his interpretation outside of these dominant perspectives he invites us to
take a fresh, critical view of what for many students are their often
unexamined cultural assumptions.2
The themes he draws from traditional cultures include: an assumed
link between morality and illness; the transference and objectification of
illness; the importance of sacred space, pilgrimage and a healing context;
the prestige, confidence and empathy modelled by effective healers; the
assigning of meaning to illness; the nature of group solidarity, or
community involvement in the healing process; and the symbolic nature of
the healing process (1996: 71-81). Many of these themes then reappear, at
times unexpectedly, in Kinsley’s discussion of Christianity and modern
medicine. For instance, themes from shamanic culture are illustrated in the
biographies of Jesus (1996: 89-91), the importance of sacred healing
places in Christianity is discussed (1996: 108-117), and the medicalization
of morality is also drawn out (1996: 177-183). The argument peppered
throughout the text is that similar archaic themes and symbols mediate the
healing process in each of the three traditions he discusses.
opens new avenues of analysis. He shows a profound concern for how the
tradition views Kāli, as opposed to how the west might view her. He opens
The Sword and the Flute by arguing that religious phenomena are best
understood on their own planes of reference – religious phenomena
“deserve” to be interpreted in religious terms (1975: 2-3). For Kinsley this
means an appreciation for both the context and cultural setting of the
phenomena itself and also an appreciation for what he called the
“visionary” or “other” realm implied by the tradition (1975: 4).
This perspective on the material comes to the fore in his study of Kāli.
He rejects a number of perspectives in The Sword and the Flute which can
generally be described as reductionistic. David begins by critiquing
approaches that tend to subsume Kāli to an aspect of Mahādevi, the great
goddess. He does not ignore the existence of great goddess theology or
that it has some role to play in Kāli’s narratives, but he insists that Kāli has
a discernable identity beyond simply being a facet of a larger process
(1975: 84-86). The remainder of his text demonstrates his point, and I will
have more to say on this topic in my discussion of Hindu Goddesses:
Visions of the Divine Feminine in the Hindu Religious Tradition. A second
critique of a reductionist approach appears later in his text when he
discusses Jungian interpretations of Kāli. These approaches tend to view
worshipers of Kāli as returning to a childhood state and as being un-manly
and weak (1975: 130). David notes that this perspective displays its own
western male-chauvinist myth and tends to reduce all devotion to the
Goddess to an overly simplistic formula. Perhaps more importantly, he
notes a lack of understanding in this perspective and a distrust of what the
tradition has to say about itself. Kinsley argues that instead of simply
assuming the tradition must have an incorrect interpretation of Kāli, we
need to take seriously the Hindu themes that arise in a discussion of Kāli
(1975: 130-133).
The impact of Kinsley’s methodology is still felt in contemporary
scholarship. Jeffrey Kripal and Rachel Fell McDermott in their survey of
scholarship on Kāli credit David with inaugurating a new methodological
approach to the study of the Goddess in The Sword and the Flute. They
note: “Kinsley thus initiated a fourth method of studying of Kāli – an
approach employing a mix of resources from history, texts, and field
studies that asks questions concerning the theological and personal import
of the Goddess to her South Asian worshippers” (2003: 8). A thoughtful
discussion of this issue can be found in Kathleen Erndl’s Victory to the
Mother. In this text she argues that an approach of “understanding” as
opposed to one of “explanation” is best employed when discussing
possession in goddess cults (1993: 132). She suggests that understanding
The Legacy of David Kinsley 25
(1975: 143).4 Her raised sword is there to cut ignorance, to free the
practitioner from a life centred on their current finite existence. The
message, he suggests, to the frightful imagery sometimes associated with
Kāli is to transcend a fear of death and to revel in each moment of life
(1975: 143-144). Much of David’s interpretive strategy revolves around
Kāli prompting a repulsion of the material world and a transcendence to
another. While I remain unsure if this reading of Kāli can be generalized to
all aspects of her narratives and iconography, it does present a remarkable
vision derived from Hindu ideology. It is also a perspective which
counters previous interpretative attempts from westerners which fixated on
the negative aspects of this Goddess and her cult without recognizing how
to interpret them.
In the years since the publication of The Sword and the Flute David
began to distil many of his ideas on Kāli in a number of essays and
chapters in books. In 1982 he published “Blood and Death Out of Place:
Reflections on the Goddess Kāli”5, and “The Motherhood of God as
Expressed in the Goddess Kāli”. In 1986 he devoted a chapter to Kāli in
his Hindu Goddesses text6, and in 1997 he devoted another chapter to her
in his Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine: The Ten Mahāvidyās.
“Blood and Death Out of Place” retraces some of the historical material
from The Sword and the Flute, but re-centres the discussion to stress her
chaotic and threatening appearance. He goes on to explain her unbound
nature through the Hindu concepts of māyā, prakriti and shakti. For David
the point of Kāli’s challenge to order, or dharma, was to demonstrate “that
certain aspects of reality are untameable, unpurifiable, unpredictable, and
always threatening to society’s feeble attempts to order what is essentially
disorderly: life itself” (1982b: 152). Again, the message of Kāli from
Kinsley’s reading is the Hindu ideal that one needs to transcend order and
disorder to attain moksha – a theme neatly encapsulated in the figure of
this Goddess. The chapter in Hindu Goddesses repeats much of this
material, but adds a stress on the liminal nature of the Goddess, which
represents another way to understand her as a medium for transcendence
(1986: 131). In Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine, he argues that Kāli
is the exemplary Mahāvidyā. She illustrates the major themes of the
group: female independence, powerful sexuality, danger and a freedom
from societal norms (1997: 79-80). In this text Kinsley also adds a great
deal of new Tāntric and scholarly material on Kāli and also returns to his
earlier themes emphasizing an interpretation “that she is the mistress of
change and transformation” (1997: 90).
Before discussing David’s enduring legacy concerning research on
Kāli, I would briefly like to illustrate some of the critiques of his work in
The Legacy of David Kinsley 27
this area. My intent here is in part to illustrate the impact he had on this
field. In many of the introductions to his books on Hindu goddesses
Kinsley comments that he views them as introductory works designed to
promote further research. That some of this further research scrutinised
and critiqued elements of his own work simply meant that he had
succeeded in promoting new generations of scholars. Patricia Dold, a
student of David’s, writes in this regard that during a 1996 conference
some of the presenters questioned his work on goddesses. His response
was to jokingly complain about “‘being deconstructed’” (Dold 2001: 392).
David encouraged new work on goddesses, and if that meant his own
research required revision, more the better for it. As Dold notes in regard
to these critiques: “We all agreed that our criticisms proved that David’s
work set the standard for scholarship on Kāli and Hindu goddesses
generally” (2001: 392). In this spirit I will note some of the criticisms of
his work.
Dold presents some valuable comments on Kinsley’s work in her essay
“Kinsley’s Kāli” (2001). She argues that Kinsley presents a selective
reading of specific Sanskrit texts to help support his image of Kāli as a
goddess of extremes. Dold also suggests that part of the ‘outsider’ image
created of Kāli in these texts is a product of mainstream Hinduism which
tends to marginalize the Goddess and her followers. She states that a more
critical evaluation of the textual sources David employs is needed as is an
acknowledgement that not all the brahminical evidence supports his
extreme vision of Kāli (2001: 392). Sarah Caldwell presents a similar
critique not just of Kinsley, but of scholarship in this area in general. Her
criticism lies in the emphasis on the marginal status of Kāli (2003: 250-
258). Caldwell does, however, suggest that ethnographic field research on
goddesses provides a counter measure to the marginal appearance of Kāli,
and she credits Kinsley with recognizing the importance of this
methodological approach (2003: 260).
Another criticism comes from Suchitra Samanta in an article, “The
‘Self-Animal’ and Divine Digestion: Goat Sacrifice to the Goddess Kāli in
Bengal” (1994). Samanta’s argument relates to how the blood sacrifice to
Kāli ought to be interpreted. The author presents a philosophical analysis
of bali, or sacrifice, that fits Hindu and Tāntric perceptions of the sacrifice,
sacrificer and deity. Samanta suggests that the sacrificial offering is less of
a transaction or communion between human and divine as is typically
understood by scholars and more of a symbolic union between sacrificer
and deity. Using Shakta theology the author argues for an equivalence
between the sacrificial victim, sacrificial patron and shakti itself. Hence,
the sacrifice should be viewed as a part (the sacrificer) seeking to join the
28 1. Richard D. Mann
He does not ignore Mahādevi theology in this text, but he does present
each goddess without the assumption that she is best understood as a
30 1. Richard D. Mann
manifestation of the great goddess. His stance here has attracted both
praise and criticism. Two prominent reviewers of the text present largely
positive impressions of the text, but both dislike his treatment of
Mahādevi. Alf Hiltebeitel notes: “The effort to keep things separate
creates its greatest confusion in chapter 9 on the Mahādevi. Kinsley tries
valiantly to give this figure an independent status, but the approach
flounders on the fact that he cannot talk about Mahādevi without talking
about Durgā, Kālarātri, Sarasvati...” (1987: 350). Thomas Coburn presents
a similar critique of the Mahādevi chapter of the text (1988: 413). There is
room to question Kinsley’s approach to the Mahādevi chapter in Hindu
Goddesses, but his general approach which pays attention to the
particularity of each goddess has demonstrated its value over time. Part of
the danger in subscribing to an overarching theory like that of the great
goddess is that it discourages attempts at specific studies which might
question the validity of the theory. Recent scholarship has demonstrated
the problems with such reductive theories and many have looked back to
Hindu Goddesses as their example of a correct approach to the study of
Hindu goddesses. Kathleen Erndl provides us with an example. In Victory
to the Mother, she questions Lawrence Babb’s theory that all Hindu
goddesses can be reduced to a structural dualism; they are either
malevolent and single, or benign and attached to a male deity. She
demonstrates that such a theory may be valid in some instances, but cannot
account for all of the dimensions of the divine feminine found within
Hinduism. Her example of the great complexity of the Hindu goddess
tradition and the need to treat each facet of it with its own case study
comes from Hindu Goddesses (1993: 157-158).
The legacy of this text is displayed in the bibliographies of major texts
on Hindu goddesses since its publication. I know of almost no publication
in this field which does not list this work in its bibliography or directly cite
it. David succeeded in producing the sourcebook on Hindu goddesses in
the field for students and scholars alike. His preface to the 1997 printing of
Hindu Goddesses eloquently illustrates the place of the book in the field:
The history of this book, however, pleases me. It was successful in the
way I had hoped it would be. In the past decade, many fine scholars have
turned their attention to Hindu goddesses. In many cases, this book was
influential in attracting them to the field. It continues to serve as a useful
introduction to a large and fascinating area – the divine feminine as
expressed in the Hindu tradition – and I hope it will continue to inspire
students to take up its subject. (1997b: ix).
The Legacy of David Kinsley 31
naive about the gap between representations of the divine feminine and
representations of women. In another context he has illustrated that the
Devi Bhagavāta Purāna both extols Devi as the supreme force in the
universe and presents women in a misogynistic manner (1982c: 50-53).
There he critiques a common assumption that mythological depictions of
the divine feminine are reflected in the human reality of many women
(1982c: 54). Due to this earlier work we can see why David’s wording in
Tāntric Visions is so cautious. One might even question if such comments
are justified. The reason they are found in the text, however, is simple.
They are a reflection of his commitment to both scholarship and social
change which we find echoed in many of his texts.7
The impact of this most recent work has yet to be fully felt. Its focus is
narrower than that of Hindu Goddesses being of interest primarily to
Tāntric and Bengal specialists, but it is beginning to be cited in these types
of studies.8 As with so much of Kinsley’s work on Hindu goddesses he
transforms the inaccessible into the accessible; the real value of his study
is that it shines light on a much misunderstood tradition in a lucid and
insightful manner. Given the complexities of the Tāntric tradition and the
sources for the Mahāvidyās, a readable text which also provides
provocative analysis stands as an accomplishment in and of itself. As one
reviewer notes of Tāntric Visions, it is a “welcome relief to come upon a
book that is as thorough, well researched, and yet also as refreshingly
readable as David Kinsley’s latest work” (Urban 1999: 179). David’s
goals in writing this text were modest: “In many respects this study is not
definitive or conclusive. I seek here to bring a preliminary ordering to the
Mahāvidyā tradition in the hope that it will encourage other scholars to
undertake more detailed studies of the group and its individual members”
(1997:2). On this objective and the text as a whole Leslie Orr states: “This
engaging and interesting book is certain to inspire such scholarly efforts
and will also, like Kinsley’s earlier work, have considerable appeal for
students” (1999: 241). Another reviewer has commented that Kinsley
certainly meets these goals in his text, but is far too modest in his stated
objectives because his work achieves so much more (Kinnard 2000: 313).
exhilarating one, perhaps too much so. While I had returned to Canada,
moved to Hamilton and begun to prepare for graduate studies, my mind
stayed in India. I lingered in my memories of places, experiences and
friends left behind and found adjusting to my once familiar life strangely
foreign. The situation at McMaster at that time did little, initially, to
convince me that I would not be better off in India. I came to McMaster
hoping to study Tamil Shaivism with Dr. Paul Younger. Paul had,
however, taken early retirement that summer while I was away in India. I
sat on the first day of classes in my office in the basement of University
Hall dejected thinking that my course of study had ended before I had
even walked into a classroom. I longed for India and a means out of my
current predicament. At that moment there was a quiet knock on the door
and there stood David Kinsley. I did, of course, know of David. My
introduction to Hinduism as an undergraduate came primarily through
David’s work. In my mind’s eye I had expected David to be a great giant
of a man, that his physical stature should somehow mirror his giant status
as a scholar. You might well imagine my surprise when the rather slightly
built David smiled and modestly introduced himself. He was so without
pretence that I was initially unsure of just what to say. I sat there
dumbfounded, but David explained that he had ventured into the basement
of University Hall to see how I was; rumour had it that I was down. We
talked about India, and he told me of his first experiences at McMaster.
Like me, he had come to McMaster for the first time after a period of
research in India. He recalled being fresh with the excitement of his
studies in Bengal, but not knowing the system at McMaster had missed his
first classes much to the displeasure of the departmental chair at the time.
After a rather unpleasant stripping down from the chair he recalled sitting
in his office wondering what he was doing at McMaster and longing for
India. In retrospect he was gleeful about the experience. It was simply one
of many lessons he gained about teaching. He jokingly commented: step
one, know when and where one is to teach; step two, arrive at said time
and place. His message was clear – if he had managed to survive his first
day at McMaster and go on to prosper, so could I. After that he asked what
it was that interested me about Tamil Shaivism – the Tamil element or the
Shaivite element. While the path of Tamil studies was closed to me, much
of the rich world of Shaivism was not. A new path of study opened up that
day, and I have been following it since. I have since come to understand
that my interaction with David that day was similar to many encounters he
had with students over his years of teaching. He was motivated by
concern; he found the positive in most situations and was not afraid to tell
The Legacy of David Kinsley 35
a humbling story about himself to help someone else see how new
opportunities can be made.
David’s teaching had already taken on something of a legendary aura
about it well before I came to McMaster in the 1990s.9 He created and
taught most of the department’s high enrolment courses. It was not
unusual for his courses to have over 300 students and a small army of
teaching assistants to help organize the students and the course. David was
a master at creating and teaching these courses. His training at the
University of Chicago tended to show itself through his teaching. Most of
his courses took a comparative approach to the study of religion and
almost all emphasized the contemporary voice of those traditions. Many of
the courses he created held personal meaning to him. His course on the
divine feminine, for instance, was a means to address issues of gender and
religion. He revelled in the opportunities this course presented to question
the assumptions and categories he and his students held concerning
women and religion (Pearson 2001: 403). He also loved to create a sense
of drama through his lectures. He planned to shock and challenge students
through the narratives and iconography of the traditions he presented to
the class (Pearson 2001: 403). The highlight of this course was often a
panel he would create comprised of some of the students themselves. Most
instructors would find in such a proposition, releasing control of the
course to students who represent the religious traditions being studied, a
situation fraught with the potential for a loss of classroom decorum and
‘objectivity’ when sensitive topics arose. For David, though, these were
moments when the students could teach him. David was ever conscious of,
and sensitive to, the voice of the tradition itself. This was particularly true
in his divine feminine course where he was painfully aware of his role as a
man addressing what were often women’s issues. It would be in these
situations as he listened to the voice of the tradition that he found his own
assumptions challenged. His most recent moment of reappraisal came
from a panel of female Muslim students who addressed their decisions to
wear the hijab. When David first told me about his encounter with this
panel he was visibly excited about his latest learning experience. He had
always assumed that the hijab was a sign of female oppression, a view
these students had challenged in their stories of why they had chosen to
wear this garment. David acknowledged that he had never imagined the
hijab as a liberating garment, which was the description a particular
student gave to the dress. He was not completely convinced that the hijab
was not an instrument of female oppression, but he did recognize that the
issue was more complex when presented through the voices of the women
in his class.
36 1. Richard D. Mann
to try to help students see that underlying what they take for granted and
never bother to think about are presuppositions, assumptions, and
particular preferences for understanding the world.... . It is often in
comparative perspectives that the outlines, distinctive nature, and
peculiarities of our own culture become visible or obvious and can be held
up for critical analysis and evaluation (Kinsley cited in Pearson 2001:
404).
asked for our help in reaching one of them. One of the most important, he
told us, was to try and finish his courses. He said that he was not
completely sure he would last until the end of term, but it was one of his
last wishes to complete the term and not abandon his students in his
troubling time. In my own mind to finish one’s days teaching a course
called Health, Healing and Religion would be something of a cruel irony;
something to walk away from in despair. Such were my initial reactions,
but I had yet to learn from David what courage and commitment were in
the face of death – a lesson few of us around him will forget.
I spent a lot of time with David during that final semester. His physical
decline was rapid over the months and his strength was drained by
radiation treatments to help manage his pain. Even through these problems
he attended every lecture, but needed our help with the considerable
challenge of administering his high enrolment courses. David had me over
to his house a number of times to guide me through developing the final
exam and to discuss problems with the course. During those times he
spoke about his illness and the learning experience delivered through his
illness. He spoke openly of his fear of death. He was in considerable pain
and also feared this element of his sickness. He spoke warmly of his
friends and his life. With his typical modesty he would reflect on the
progress of his career. During graduate school he had thought he would
find a teaching job at a small college in middle America. He reflected with
amazement at his time at McMaster and the remarkable success he had as
both a teacher and researcher. He attributed it all to luck; those who knew
him understood his success differently.
He also found points of humour and courage in his illness. Eating out
became a great source of pleasure. He would grin as he described the rich
dishes he ordered that not long ago he avoided for his ‘health’.
Laughingly, he would comment on the irony of this twist and the pleasure
he took in it. He also expressed some fear of the machine that delivered his
radiation treatments. Through his well mannered persuasion he had
convinced the nurses to let him place a picture of Durgā on the door to the
machine. She is a powerful destroyer and protector, a powerful mother to
bring the cold machine to life. For David these were points of dealing with
his illness, of creating what were for him sources of spiritual healing and
comfort in a cold machine. His success in dealing with his radiation
treatments was a point of pride and humour for him. Even a machine could
be taught to accommodate his humanity.
David’s most common topic of discussion was his friends and family.
Spending time with his loved ones before he died was important to him.
He was joyful and comforting to those who visited. He cried with some
38 1. Richard D. Mann
and laughed with others. He reflected on his life as one spent in the
company of great friends, colleagues and students. He was thrilled to see
so many of them again, but also deeply saddened that the friendships were
ending. He shared these emotions with us as we visited in his own honest
and caring manner. There was remarkable dignity and bravery in what he
shared with his friends, family and students in his final months of life.
His final lecture in the Health, Healing and Religion course was an
example of his bravery and approach to his illness. He was quite ill by this
point, and I had received a phone call from one of his friends to be
prepared to take the last lecture should David not be able to make it. I
dreaded this. The topic was to be learning through terminal illness;
something that had always been on the syllabus of the course, but had
taken on its own meaning for myself and the class over the past few
months. David did come to this lecture and gave the talk. It was an act of
bravery that I could not begin to entertain even as a bystander to David’s
human drama. The talk was also one of compassion. David used it to show
the positive learning that can come from the direst of situations. In dying
we find a gift that reminds use of what is so special about life, and to
celebrate it until the end. At that lecture a friend announced that David had
won the President’s Award for Instruction, McMaster’s highest teaching
honour. The class rose to applaud David, and he stood humbly with his
hands held in a namaskar (salute) in recognition of the students and those
who had come to hear his last lecture.
As a final point of reflection on David I would like to mention his
thoughts on flowers. David loved spring flowers. As spring approached he
kept flowers around his house and would point out their beauty to me.
Once the flowers in question where a couple of cut tulips sitting in a glass
in his kitchen. He began by talking about trips he and a colleague, Graeme
McQueen, had taken to the Royal Botanical Gardens to see the spring
flowers appear. They had talked about the life and death of flowers, and
David had created what he called a theology of flowers. They rise up out
of the earth, he explained. They bloom for a while and flourish in the
spring sun, but then they fade and disappear back into the earth out of
which will arise new life. We are like that, he said. We come from a great
power, bloom and then sink back into that power – ideas he took from his
work on Kāli. He took great comfort in this analogy and his conviction
that he was part of a natural process that could not be avoided. He
accepted his death and tried to spend his last days enjoying the things most
important to him.
An amendment is needed, however, to David’s theology of flowers –
When flowers bloom, they bloom together. They arise as a community
The Legacy of David Kinsley 39
sharing the same sun and soil, and interact through pollination. Flowers
share themselves with other flowers. The essence of the next generation of
flowers is shared and transferred when the previous generation blooms. A
harvest of fruit and seed are produced by particularly brilliant flowers that
attract the most attention and spread their pollen widely. David’s legacy is
such; a brilliant flower who laid the seeds for the next generation, the next
community, to bloom as he did. Flowers are not isolated beings that
disappear into a void; their legacy lives on as a tribute to the community
they helped seed.
7. Endnotes
1
Similar ideas are also covered by Kinsley in his article, “‘Mother Goddesses’ and
‘Culture Goddess’” (1993b).
2
This approach of presenting non-western or non-contemporary views as a means
of challenging current assumptions is typical of Kinsley’s cross-cultural work.
I have already discussed it in relation to The Goddesses’ Mirror. As Anne
Pearson has already pointed out, he quite consciously adopted a similar frame
in his courses on these topics in order to challenge students’ assumptions about
their own society and that of others (2000: 403).
3
Kinsley’s first article on Kāli is “‘The Taming of the Shrew’: On the history of
the goddess Kāli” (1971). This article formed the basis for much of what
appeared in The Sword and the Flute.
4
The defeat of death, or the defeat of a fear of death, is a repeated theme for
David. See his “Freedom from Death in the Worship of Kāli” (1975b) and
“The Death That Conquers Death: Dying to the world in Medieval Hinduism”
(1977).
5
This article was republished in Devi: Goddesses of India.
6
This chapter was republished in Encountering Kāli: In the Margins, at the
Center, in the West.
7
Hugh Urban provides a largely positive review of Tāntric Visions, but does
present three reasonable criticisms of the work. First, he notes that much of the
work and analysis are not new, but re-workings of Kinsley’s previous work on
Kāli and Hindu goddesses. Second, he finds the text ahistorical in focus. Third,
he thinks the text lacks an adequate account of the social and cultural context
of the Mahāvidyā cult (1999:180). Leslie Orr also reviews the text positively,
but notes a tendency to smooth over Tantra in the text. She suggests the
presentation of Tantra as a coherent system ignores inconsistencies in the
tradition itself as well as regional and historical variations (1999: 241).
8
See for instance: Kripal 2003: 196, and McDaniel 2004: 24.
40 1. Richard D. Mann
9
Anne Pearson has produced an excellent paper, “David Kinsley as teacher: Some
reflections on pedagogy,” which discusses her own memories as a Teaching
Assistant for David and also reflects on his teaching style (2001: 403-407).
10
A moving account of David’s final days can also be found in Encountering Kāli
(2003: 1-2). There Rachel Fell McDermott recounts her visit to David in
February, 2000.
-----------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. The locational arrangement of all goddess places over the map
(of India) projects the idea of sacrality with respect to spatiality,
symbolism and land-affinity in a distinctive and unique manner. On the
basis of typological character, two levels may be identified: (1) from local
to regional, pan-India level and finally the infinity symbolizing ‘march
from micro to macrocosmos’; and (2) from pan-India to local level― the
‘march from macro to micro-cosmos’. These two levels reflect the
spirality and circularity of the system. In between these two polarities the
structural component of ‘meso-cosmos’ is easily perceivable. In this way,
the trinity-network of pilgrimage system becomes easily perceptible on the
map of India. This network and system are regulated, kept active and
attractive, pertinent and overall maintained by one of the oldest surviving
traditions of pilgrimage which even today make a large number of people
move from one place to another. ‘Rivers’, the liquidity of spirit and
‘mountains/hills’, the stability and coverage, association with goddess-
places are rather intriguing issue (s). In fact, symbolically they represent
the feminine and masculine powers, respectively, which unite for the
divine process of creation.
Keywords. Nature, river goddess, symbolism, historical base, goddess
centres, territory, typology, ancient pithas.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
Mother goddesses have been worshipped since pre-historic times.
Being considered to be related to fertility (of the mother Earth represented
by the fields) and good harvest, the first tillers and farmers have
worshipped them as fertility goddesses as evident from a Harappan seal
46 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
2. Historical Base
The earliest most evidence of the cult of mother worship is found on a
Harappan seal dated ca. 3rd century BCE, depicting an inverted and
spread-legged female figurine with a plant coming out from her womb
(Bakker 1983: 3). The Vedas, epics, and Purānas are full of references
wherein the mother worship is usually associated with the ancient
inhabitants of the hilly and mountainous regions of the country — the
Vindhyas, the Deccan, the Himalaya, etc. In such worships sacrificial
ritual lies at the centre-place. Depending upon the level and scale of the
sacrifice anything, from a bird (commonly fowl) to human being could be
slaughtered. However, a great variation is found in the name of such
sacrifice The pastoral Aryans, who considered themselves to be of higher
castes, initially had hardly any regards for the goddesses worshipped by
hunting communities and their fellowmen cultivating fields.
The female divinities are attributed subordinate position to the male
gods in the Vedic pantheon. They are depicted as associated mystically
with cosmology and cosmogony rather than with such profane issues of
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 47
fertility, protection against diseases, and so on. And, here one can point
out the basic difference in the very conception of female divinities and of
course, their association at two different levels of society. Nevertheless,
the Rig Veda (4.57.6-7) contains a reference to Sitā as a goddess of furrow.
Similarly, further concessions are given to the non-Aryan cults and
superstitions as evident from several contents in the Atharva Veda (12.1).
No wonder that the goddess worship had been local phenomenon for
quite some time and the all-India phenomena co-ordinated through the
Sanskrit texts is relatively recent development. The essential identity of
the Great Goddess, within Brahmanical Hinduism is expounded in the
Purānas (3rd - 16th century CE). The cult that was not at all regarded by
the Aryans, considering it to be related to the primitives and therefore
inferior in all senses, gradually gained acceptability and final assimilation.
The goddess, Prakriti, was later recognised as the creative force through/from
whom all gods and worlds originate.
Whatever the case would have been, the centres of goddess cult
recognised in Sanskrit literary sources are only a few. The places,
identified in the Mahābhārata (3.82.81-84, 131-132; 3.80.99-101),
associated with the cult of goddess are — Yonidvāra (“Gate of the
Womb”) on the Udyanta Parvata, Stanakunda (“Breast-tank”) situated on
Gaurishikhara and Bhimasthāna in Panchanada (Punjab). Other goddess
centres in the north-western part of the sub-continent were Oddiyāna and
Jālandhara. Important shrines, in rest of the parts, of goddess are said to be
at Vindhyāchal (in Southwest Mirzapur), Shriparvata or Shrishaila
(Mehbubnagar, Andhra Pradesh), Shārada (north Kashmir), Kāmākhya or
Kāmagiri (near Guwahati, Assam).
If seen in temporal view, it is easily discernable that increasing
influence of goddess worship on Hindu religion and independent cult of
goddesses attained prominence for the first time during the reign of the
Gupta dynasty (6th -7th centuries). It was the period when many Sanskrit
texts, e.g. the Devi Māhātmya (DM), devoted exclusively to the goddess,
appeared (cf. Passi 2008). Simultaneously, many images of the goddess
were conceived and moulded, as found by the archaeologists today. Later
on the Devi Bhāgavata Purāna (DbP) was written in Bengal (cf. Coburn
1988, and 1991). It gives comprehensive account of a considerably long
list of holy sites associated with the manifestations of the goddess. A
remarkable development with regard to reverence for the sacrality of the
land took place almost in the same period.
The reverence for the sacredscape (pavitrasthān) or the inherent spirit
at a place in Hindu tradition is as old as the foundations of the religion.
That is how one finds several hymns in praise of the goddess Prithvi
48 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
(“earth”) in the Rig Veda (1.185, 6.70, and 5.84). She is perceived as a
great and mighty goddess and also a living being — a cosmic organism.
Reverence to Prithvi is continually found in early medieval mythological
literature and she is often mentioned as Bhudevi (“Earth Goddess”). The
Great Goddess is identified with the world-spirit and /or cosmic-force in
the texts. According to the DM (11.5) the world is filled by Her and She
constitutes every thing created (DM, 11.6). Further, She is said to be
omnipresent in the universe (DbP 1.9.31-32), she is called She whose form
is all ― Sarvamayi (203), She whose body is matter ― Kshetra-svarupa
(341), She who is the world ― Jagatāmbikā (419), She whose womb
contains the universe ― Vishvagarbhā (637), She whose form is all
existing things ― Bhumarupā (666). She is also called Mahi (718) and
Dharā (955) ― two names for the earth (Kinsley 1986: 179). The Earth is
the called the Goddess’s loins (5.8.72), oceans as Her bowels, the
mountains as Her bones, the rivers as Her Veins, the trees as Her hairs, the
sun and moon as Her eyes, and the neither worlds as Her hips, legs, and
feet in the DbP (7.33.21-41).
The above account although does not provide a sufficiently elaborated
base to understand the emergence of goddess centres and their subsequent
popularity, it definitely offers to explain the development of goddess cult
and its gradual inclusion in the Brahmanical Hindu (Sanskrit) tradition in
concise form.
3. Religious Symbolism
Now, the problem is to discern how the earth or at least the Indian
subcontinent (Bhārat Kshetra) is projected as the sacred body of the
goddess (Mātā). The holy centres/ places (tirthas), in general, cover whole
of the subcontinent to which the devotees make visit — pilgrimage
(tirthayātrā). Literally, pilgrimage is an act ‘to cross’, the profane to the
sacred realm, from humanity to divinity, from this world to another world.
Naturally, the purpose is to make contact with the divine and with these
super objective human beings make arduous journey to remote places —
usually a mountain, or hill top where the divinities supposedly live. Such
geographical locales are considered to be the abode of divinities. It is
important to note here that not all of the geographical sites mountains,
hills, rivers, caves, etc. are considered holy. They must possess some
peculiarity together with sacral spirit and power of the place to qualify as a
point where the human beings can seek contact with the divine.
Association of sacrality and the geographical setting enhances the sacred
power of a place and therefore the awe or reverence to that. In fact, in the
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 49
Indian case, one finds great attraction of sacred places has initially not
been due to a particular temple (alone); rather the geography of such holy
places was significant.
One can argue that the evident connections between the place-
geography and the spirit of place (genus loci) were formulated in ancient
times. The geography provides a material symbol to explain a certain
religious, philosophical and theological idea or thesis. Automatically, the
nature-gifted physical peculiarity becomes valuable and is interpreted as
special to a given place. In this context, it would be inappropriate to
overlook the significance of the classical and mythological texts. Such
texts have woven religious tales eulogizing the divinities and their place
association. And, thus, we find some places very important as sacred
places. If a map of India is drawn today to show the places having divinity
association, hardly any space would be left vacant. In majority of the
cases, some kind of ages’ old sacred tradition will be found attached. The
history of India stands testimony to the fact that country had hardly any
period when it was ruled by a single ruler. However, the sacred or holy
places must be accredited importance for keeping, politically highly
fragmented, country by and large historically and culturally united despite
various diversities and dynamics of fractions and frictions at different
levels and horizon of space.
textual traditions, there are strong live traditions of some goddesses (and
their individual shrines) who are highly revered and popular in specific
regions; (iv) the nature worship’ prevalence is common across all
civilizations and cultures. In Hinduism, with special reference to the
goddess worship, divine power is directly associated with natural features
— ponds, lakes, mountains, hills, rivers, oceans, etc. (cf. Table 2.1). That
is how the nature-related goddesses qualify to be separated from others. At
the same time, probability of some cases fulfilling criteria of a regional as
well as nature related goddess is mention-worthy. Nevertheless, distinction
between them is quite often made easily; (v) the goddesses granting
protection against diseases (particularly smallpox and chickenpox), evil
spirits, etc. form a separate group altogether. Although their names do vary
from one region to another, their identity remains same throughout. Here,
it may be concluded that the textual recognition, along with people’s belief
system, provides a basis to attempt the goddess places’ typology.
5.1 Oddiyāna
Several locations for Oddiyāna have been suggested by the scholars
(cf. Bakker 1983: 54). The most frequent and common of them are: (i) the
Swat valley, (ii) a region in Bengal, and (iii) Orissa. The theories
suggesting Oddiyāna ’s location either in Orissa or Bengal become invalid
in the light of accounts of Tibetan pilgrims; travellers, especially Hsuan-
tsang; descriptions in the early Tantras; an inscription from Mathura
(dating 10 BCE/VS 47); and the Mahāvanijajātaka. All of these are strong
evidences in favour of the argument that Oddiyāna was in the Swat valley.
52 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
5.2. Purnagiri
The location of Purnagiri is supposed to be in Almora district in
Uttaranchal state on Indo-Nepalese border. The district gazetteer and maps
name the same mountain as “Puniagiri”. Probably, ‘Puniagiri’ is the
corrupted version, in local tongue, of Purnagiri. However, no evidence has
yet been found to support this argument.
5.3. Jālandhara
Since there are a number of probable locations for the original
Jālandharapitha, it is important to mention the contention in short. The
information in the texts is very scarce and practically insufficient to
suggest the location of this pitha. Actually, the oldest tantras and Purānas
are silent when it comes to location. Nevertheless, the Kālikā Purāna (18,
49) says Jalashaila is the residence of Chandi. According to Cunningham it
refers to a popular name for the Sutlej-Beas doab (inter confluence). The
accounts of Hsuan-tsang describe the town of Jālandhara being 12/13 li in
circuit and the capital of a kingdom, 1000 li (from east to west) and about
800 li (from east to west) in extension. Deduction of this extension by
Alexander Cunningham comes to 167miles x 133 miles [269km x 214km].
The Rājatarangini and the Purānas give yet another name for this region
as Trigarta or Trigartadesha. It is quite possible that the pitha Jālandhara
was a country rather than a mountain or specific city of importance. The
Padma Purāna, Jālandhara-Purāna, Jālandhara Māhātmya and
Jālandharapitha-dipikā relate the name of the country of Jālandhara to a
demon king Jālandhara — the son of the ocean and the Gangā.
There are two temples, around 32km apart, which contend to the
original site of Jvālāmukhi. One of which is dedicated to Jvālāmukhi
unanimously, and the second one has different names — Vajreshvari or
Mātādevi, etc. Their existence since several hundred years and belief of
the Devi worshippers need serious consideration. However, Abul-Fazl
relates the shrine at Nāgarkot to the seat of Jvālāmukhi. And, the location
of Jālandhara pitha in a mountainous area at both sites confirms the Kālikā
Purāna’s description. On the basis of these arguments it would be safe and
not wrong to state that despite a dispute on the exact location of Jālandhara
pitha, the said shrine is in this region only.
6. Tradition/Series of 51 Shaktipithas
With the belief that devis at all shrines (in Indian sub-continent) are
manifestations of the goddess in different forms, the tradition of 51
Shaktipithas is supposed to have come into existence sometimes in the
early medieval period. This tradition is related to a mythology that clearly
affirms the basic unity among all places sacred to the goddess. Besides, it
suggests that the Earth, especially India, is mother — who has the power
to procreate, produce and protect.
was killed and the sacrifice destroyed. Tormented by Sati’s death, Shiva
roamed in all parts of cosmos with Sati’s corpse on shoulders. He forgot
his divine duty. Consequently, the cosmic order and stability was
disturbed. Perceiving the threat on the divine order, Vishnu was called
upon to remedy the situation. He entered Sati’s body by yoga and cut the
corpse in to several pieces; another version of the same story says he cut
the corpse with chakra (disc). Finding that Sati’s body is no more, Shiva
stopped grieving and regained his divine composure (cf. Sircar 1973: 5-7).
The places where different organs/parts of Sati’s body and ornaments fell
became sacred places (of the goddess) and were called pithas.
held Indian people together, who otherwise belong to multiple and diverse
ethnic-cultural groups with intra-social rampant divisions, since several
hundred years. As some important earlier studies by Sopher (1968),
Bhardwaj (1973), and Morinis (1984), etc. have already observed
considerable interaction among pilgrims from different places/regions at
tirthas; that must be noted here as a strong subliminal factor in the socio-
cultural-political process of Indian nation-building and inculcating the
feeling of integrity and unity.
Table 2.2. The 51 Shakti Pithas and associated Object, Form and Location
Se Place Fallen object Goddess’s form Shiva’s form Location, state/ (Country)
1. Hingalāj brain Bhairavi Bhimalochana 250km W of Karāchi (Pakistan)
2. Amaranāth throat Mahāmāyā Trisandheshvara ice-form image, J & K
3. Shriparvat right temple Shri Sundari Sundarānanda Northern Ladakh, J & K
4. Kāmākhya vagina Kāmākshā Umānanda c.8km W, Guwahāti city, Assam
5. Baurbhāga left thigh Jayanti Karmadishvara near Shillong, Meghālaya
6. Tripurā right leg Tripurasundari Tripuresha near Agartalā, Tripurā
7. Chāttal right arm Bhavāni Chandrashekhara near Chittagong (Bangladesh)
8. Sugandhā nose Sunandā Trayambaka near Bārisāla (Bangladesh)
9. Puri navel Vimalā Jagata Puri City, Orissā
10. Ratnāvali right shoulder Kumari Shiva Chennai city, Tamil Nadu
11. Kānchi skeleton Devagarbhā Ruru South of Chennai city, T.N.
12. Nellore anklet Indrākshi Rakshāsheshvara Nellore, Sri Lanka (?)
13. Kanyākumāri back Shrāvani Nimisha S most part of India, T.N.
14. Suchindram upper teeth Narāyani Samhāra 13 km W from No.13, T.N.
15. Karvira third eye Mahishamardini Krodhisha Ambā Mai in Kolhāpur, M.R.
16. Janasthāna chin Bhramari (I) Vikritāksha near Nasik, M.R.
17. Prabhāsa stomach Chandrabhāgā Vakratunda Ambāji, north Gujarat
18. Manivedikā both wrists Gāyatri Sarvānanda (I) near Pushkar, Rājasthan
19. Virāta ( Vairāt ) right toes Ambikā Amritakeshvara 64km N of Jaipur, Rājasthan
20. Jālandhara left breast Tripuramālini Bhishana Jālandhar city, Punjab
21. Jvālāmukhi tongue Siddhidā Unmatta SE of Kāngara, H.P.
22. Mānasa right palm Dakshāyani Amara Mānasarovara Lake (Tibet)
23. Gandaki right cheek Gandaki Chakrapāni Muktinātha (Nepal)
24. Pashupatinātha both knees Mahāmāyā Kapāla Kathmandu city (Nepal)
25. Uchchhaitha left shoulder Umā Mahodara 51km E of Janakapur (Nepal
26. Trisotā left leg Bhrāmari (II) Ishvara Shalbadi, Jalpāigudi Dt, W.B.
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 57
27. Karatoya left sole Aparnā Vāmana Bhavānipur (Bangladesh)
28. Yashora left palm Yashosheshvari Chanda (I) Jessore town (Bangladesh)
29. Kālamādhava left nipple Kali (I) Asitānga ---- ? ---- Not yet known
30. Nalhatti intestine Kālikā Yogisha 3km from Naihatti, W.B.
31. Kālipitha other toes Kāli (II) Nakulisha Kali temple, Kolkata, W.B.
32. Bātanagar crown (tiara) Vimalā Samvarta 24-Parganās, W.B.
33. Vibhāsha left ankle Bhimārupā Sarvānanda (II) Tāmluk, W.B.
34. Panchasāgara lower teeth Vārāhi Mahārudra ---- ? ---- Not yet known
35. Kotitirtha left temple Vishveshi Dandapāni along the Godāvari R., A.P.
36. Shrishailam neck Mahālakshmi Sambarānanda Mallikārjuna Temple, A.P.
37. Bhairava- upper lip Avanti Lambakarna 12km W.of Ujjain, M.P.
parvata
38. Ujjaiyini elbow Māngalya-chandikā Kapilambara Harsiddhi T.,Ujjain city, M.P.
39. Vrindāvana hair (head) Umā Bhutesha Vrindāvana, Mathurā, U.P.
40. Kurukshetra right ankle Savitri Sthānu Tank, Kurukshetra city, H.P.
41. Patnā right thigh Sarvānandakari Vyomakesha Patneshvari Devi, Patnā, BR.
42. Deoghar heart Jai Durgā Vaidyanātha Deoghar, S. Bihar
43. Nandipur necklace Nandini Nandikeshvara near Bolpur city, W.B.
44. Vaktreshvara mind Mahishamardini Vaktranatha near Naihatti, W.B.
45. Bahulā left hand Bahulā Bhiruka Brahmagrām, W.B.
46. Attahāsa lower lip Phullarā Vishvesha near Lābpur, W.B.
47. Yugadya big toe Bhutadhātri Kshirakantaka Chhiragrām, W.B.
48. Sona light nipple Sonākshi Bhadrasena Sāsāram town, W. Bihār
49. Rāmagiri right breast Shivāni Chanda (II) Chitrakut, Bāndā Dt., U.P.
50. Prayāga fingers Lalitā Bhāva Alopi Devi, Allāhābad,U.P.
51. Vārānasi ear ring/eyes Vishālākshi Kāla Bhairava Mir Ghāt,Vārānasi city, U.P.
Sources: Yoginihridaya (3.36-43), Tantrasāra (cf. Sirkar 1973: 23), Tantrachudāmadi (pp. 515-16), Manthānabhairavatantra Tikā
by Rupashiva (fl. 3a), Ambāmatasamhitā (fl. 13a); see Sirkar 1973: 20-23; Singh 1997: 238-239).
58 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
6.4. Symbolism
The number 51 is not only identical to the 51 letters of Sanskrit (and
Hindi) alphabet but also represented mystically in numerous ways in the
yantra, an archetypal design associated with goddess worship. Moreover,
experts in archetypal numerology and symbolism do interpret the origin
and maintenance, creation and destruction of the universal order controlled
by the divine feminine with 51 points of reference.
place, there was a great commotion. Even Daksha could not tolerate this
painful incident and requested:
“Devi! You are the mother of this world and one who grants boon. You had
taken incarnation, this time, to bless me. The Dharmajnāni! There is nothing
in whole of this universe without your essence, i.e. you are everywhere and
in everybody. Be kind to me; you should not leave me at this hour”.
Table 2.3. 108 Shakti Pithas: Main Characteristics (cf. Fig. 2.2).
7.2. Distribution
The pattern of distribution of the 108 goddess-places is not very
different from what has been observed in the case of 51 pithas already.
That is (i) majority of the places are located/associated with hilly locales;
even the places of goddess in plains are found at elevated points than
adjoining areas, and (ii) the concentration of shrines is in the eastern
region; whilst the west and northwest regions possess a few shrines.
Nevertheless, the distributional distinction of this series lies in the fact that
it is more dense or intense. If, all shrines are categorised by the physical
regions of the sub-continent, one may find more than 75 per cent of
goddess places in the Deccan plateau and the Himalayas; along with other
minor mountain ranges (cf. Fig. 2.2).
which the practice of nature (and its different forms) worship still
continues with deep devotion, awe, and reverence. In the sense that “the
mysteries of every natural force which surrounded and sustained the
earliest homo sapiens groups ignited their curiosity and imagination”
(Cooper 1998: 1), the religious attitude to the nature developed to the past.
The rivers and the mountains are the most distinctive natural features
empowered with sacredness. Some of the important natural objects revered
as goddess(es) are being discussed in following pages.
The Gangā
The Gangā is no ordinary image in which the divine has come to
dwell; she is celestial-unmediated and immediate (Eck, 1996:151). Her
name Tripathagā refers her divine act, which integrates the forces of three
realms ― the heaven, the earth and the netherworld. According to a myth
of BhP (5.17.1, 4; also VsP 2.2.32) the Gangā came from the apex of
heaven to the moon, and flooded the heaven of Brahmā. The Rāmāyana
(1.43.1-4) narrates this story that she came down from heaven into the
netherworld in order to redeem the sixty thousand ruthless sons of king
Sagara (cf. Kramrisch 1981: 345-346, also Kramrisch 1975). People
perceive the Gangā as mother who brings life in the form of water (Darian
1978: 31). The stories of the Gangā also associate the metaphysical,
mystical and material worldviews of existence, continuity and
maintenance of human life (cf. Singh, Rana 2009a).
Of course, there appear a thousand of holy sites and spots along the
Gangā river, fourteen given prominence from source to mouth are:
Gomukh (source), Gangotri (origin), Deva Prayāga (the confluence of two
main streams), Rishikesh (touching the holy land), Haridvār (the entry gate
into the plains), Kankhal (the place of Sati’s sacrifice), Soron (birthplace
of a great Bhakti-poet Suradās), Prayāga (the confluence with the
Yamunā), Vindhyāchal (place of meeting with the hill-goddess; cf. Singh,
Rana 1997, 2009c), Chunār (the great turning towards north), Varanasi
(the crescent-shape to meet Shiva), Patna (the place of Magadhan empire’s
capital), Sultānganj (a sacred hill on the river island ) and Gangā Sāgar
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 67
(meeting point to the ocean, the Bay of Bengal) (cf. Singh 1990 and 1996;
Fig. 2.4). At all these holy places, there appear many images of the Gangā
as goddess. The Gangā as goddess is more than a single river; in fact She
functions in India as the archetype of sacred waters. By the process of
spatial transposition of her identity in different parts of India the major
rivers of a given part represent her, e.g. the Gangā of east: Godāvari, of
west: Narmadā, and of south: Kāveri.
Fig. 2.4. The Gangā River and Sacred places
That is how the entire land of India, to the eyes of Hindu devotees, is a
sacred geography from the Himalaya in the north to the tip of India at
Kanyā Kumāri in the south (Eck 1985: 65). Says Eck (1996: 138) further,
“in every temple and home the Gangā is called to be present in the waters
used in ritual, either by mixing those waters with a few drops of Gangā
water or by uttering the name and mantras of the Gangā to invoke her
presence”.
In the source area itself there are 108 channels and tributaries’ name
with a suffix Gangā; of course, the two main tributaries are the Bhāgirathi
and Alakanandā. At Deva Prayāga these two rivers finally meet and the
68 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
stream, there after, is called the Gangā (Fig. 2.5). The 108 names of the
Gangā is considered as archetypal representation of the product of 12
zodiac’s and 9 Hindu planets, or 36 kinds of divinities and 3 mythical
realms, or 27 lunar mansions and 4 directions, etc. Several such
connotations are narrated in the mythological literature.
Fig. 2.5. The Gangā River source: Tributaries and Sacred places.
The Yamunā
Mythologized as sister of the Gangā, the Yamunā originates at
Yamunotri, 45km west of source of the Gangā, and meets her at
Allāhābād. In the source area of Yamunā exist many hot springs. The
purānic myths refer the Yamunā as the daughter of the Sun God and the
sister of Yama (“Lord of death”) (cf. BgP, 6.6.40-41). The Mahābhārata
period capital Indraprastha was at the bank of Yamunā where the present
Delhi grows. The legendary holy places related to Krishna, viz.
Vrindāvana and Mathurā lie at her bank. The Mughal emperor Shahjahan
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 69
got constructed the world-famous monument Taj Mahal in the mid 17th
century at Agra, along the bank of Yamunā. Kalpi and Hamirpur districts
record many archaeological remains of the 3rd - 8th century which clearly
refer to the antiquity of the area. The most sacred bathing festivals, Māgha
Melā and Kumbha Melā, take place at her bank. The images of Yamunā as
goddess are found at most of the holy places along its course. After
flowing 1,375 km from its source Yamunā meets the Gangā at Allāhābād
(Prayāga) (for contemporary study of religious environmentalism with a
study of the Yamunā river see, Haberman 2006).
The Godāvari
Considered as identical, in substance, with the Gangā, the Godāvari is
narrated as the southern branch of the Gangā; known as Gautami Gangā —
reminding the story of her descent by the propitiation of Sage Gautama
(cf. Feldhaus 1995: 24-25). It originates at Brahmagiri in the Western
Ghats and after covering about 1,440 kin meets the Bay of Bengal.
According to the Marathi Godāvari Māhātmya there appears eight
“organs” of “limbs” (astanga) of the Godāvari: Brahmagiri (at
Tryambakeshvara) is the Godāvari’s head; Puntambem is its mouth or
face; Puri, near the sacred area of Paithan, is the neck; Manjarath is the
heart; Sankha tirtha at Nanded is navel; Manthān/ Manthāni is the hips;
Dharmapuri the knees, and Rājmahendri is the feet (cf. Feldhaus 2003: 19-
20). Close to her source exists the famous Shiva linga of Tryambakeshvara
(cf. Dave 1970, IV: 20-23). About 40 km east of the source is the holy
town of Nasik which records its antiquity since Rāmāyana period as the
site of Panchavati where Rāma, Sitā and Lakshmana passed their exile
period. Paithān is a holy spot famous for collecting water; this site is
eulogised as the place of Brahmā’s sacrifice. Other important holy places
along Godāvari are Bhadralochan (temple of Rama, his wife and brother),
and Pithapuram (known for ancestral rites).
The Sarasvati
The Sarasvati was a great Vedic river, mentioned and glorified in the
Rig Veda (RV 6.61.4, 6; Vājasaneyi Samhitā 21.32-33). She is associated
with wealth, power, and medicine (cf. RV 10.75.8). She is said to abound
in milk and is depicted as a maternal figure that nourishes her progeny
(RV 10.30.12-13). Sarasvati is also conceived as penetrating and filling
the realms of the earth and the firmament, and she is said to have sprung
from the three sources (RV 6.61.11-12). Besides being a river goddess, she
is also connected with Vedic sacrifice. Historical sources refer that the
river originated in the Himalaya and meets the ocean (cf. RV 7.95.2) at
70 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
Rann of Kutch, however in course of time it lost its existence due to the
tectonic movements and consequent environmental alteration(s). At
present it is believed that the dry channel of Ghaggar is the ancient
channel of Sarasvati. Host of research institutions are working in
collaboration on “The Reconstruction of Palaeo Drainage Network in
Western Rajasthan” project to establish the old channel (cf. Parihar and
Halankar 1998: 67). It is believed that invisibly the Sarasvati meets river
water of the Gangā and the Yamunā at Prayāga/Allāhābād.
The Narmadā
Originated from the Amarkantaka hill, the source of the other two
rivers — the Son and Mahanadi, it covers a distance of 1290 km and meets
the Arabian Sea in the west. Mentioned in various Purānas, the Narmadā
symbolises the Gangā of the west (cf. Dave IV, 1970: 24-28). Omkāreshvara,
one of the jyotirlingas of Shiva is at an island. There are 35 confluence
points in the course of Narmadā river. About 40 km east of the seacoast is
Chandod, which has seven temples, including Sun, moon and goddesses.
At the source, on Amarkantaka hill, there is a shrine of goddess Narmadā
(river). The legends say that around hundred thousands sacredscapes exist
along the Narmadā.
The Kāveri
Perceived as the Gangā of south, the Kāveri originates in the Nilagiri
hills and meets the Bay of Bengal covering a course of 760 km. At the
source, Brahmagiri, there is a shrine of goddess Kāveri. The river branches
into two at three places and after forming islands again unite into a single
stream. On these three (riverine) islands are three highly sacred places:
Adirangam, Madhyarangam, and Antarangam or Shrirangam; the last one
considered to be the most sacred possesses the celebrated temple of
Ranganātha, a form of Vishnu. Kumbakonam another famous sacredscape,
visited by huge number of pilgrims, is assumed to be the spatial manifest
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 71
archetype of Prayāga; here too after every 12 years when Jupiter passes
over the sign of Leo, the Gangā is believed to flow in it.
8.2. Mountains
Mountains are the nearest natural attribute to the sky and are endowed
with twofold holiness: they share the spatial symbolism of transcendence
as they are “high”, “vertical”, “supreme”, and so on; and further they are
the special domain of all hierophanies of atmosphere, and therefore, the
dwelling of gods (Eliade 1958: 99). The physical distinctness, the dense
vegetal cover, the sources of rivers, the capacity of territorial marks, the
calm and quietness of nature ― and such several corresponding cosmic
and spiritual geographies make the mountain a place of sacred wisdom and
enlightenment as described in the mythological literature and people’s
perception (see Cooper 1997). Like other old mythologies, the Hindu
mythologies describe mountains as the places possessing deep power of
sacrality. Moreover, in cosmogony too ‘mountain serves as cosmic pillar,
axis mundi, where one can pass from one cosmic zone to another. Eliade
(1958: 375) has concluded three connected and complimentary aspects
related to mountains:
(1) The “sacred mountain” where heaven and earth meet, stands at the centre of
the world;
(2) Every temple or a place, and by extension, every sacred town and royal
residence, is assimilated to a “sacred mountain” and thus becomes a
“centre”;
(3) The temple or sacred city, in turn, as the place through which the axis mundi
passes, is held to be a point of junction between heaven, earth and hell.
In Hindu mythology Mount Meru stands in the middle of the world,
and the polar star shines above it. That is how the highest mountain in
regional context is symbolised as Mount Meru. Moreover, many temples
on the high hill are called as Meru/Sumeru temples. The Himalaya,
especially the source-region of the Gangā and the Yamunā rivers, is full of
sacredscapes and their numerical archetype like 5 Kedāras, 7 Badrināths,
14 Prayāgas, 108 Gangās (cf. Fig. 2.5). Praises the Rig Veda (1.121.4):
“To which other Deity shall we offer our prayer?’ Mount Kailāsh is
equally venerated both by the Buddhists and the Hindus; it is the abode of
Lord Shiva and his consort Pārvati. About 35km south of Kailāsh is
situated the famous Mānasarovar Lake. Additionally, seven sacred
mountains described in the MkP (5 7.10-11) are Mahendra (Orissa),
Malaya (southern part of Western Ghats), Suktiman (the mountains in the
72 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
eastern part), Riksha (Nilagiri and Deccan Plateau), Vindhya, and Panyātra
(older part of Vindhya) (see Fig. 2.6).
9. Concluding Remarks
Devi is, quintessentially, the core form of every Hindu Goddess; as the
female manifestation of the supreme lord, she is also called Prakriti, as she
balances out the male aspect of the divine addressed Purusha, a giant
anthropomorphic being. The energy that She uses to perform her task is a
‘cosmic delusion’ (māyā) that makes multiplied forms (rupa) for different
motives, in different contexts and various ways – her omnipresence power.
Devi (Prakriti) is also eulogised as an equal counterpart to the divine
masculine (Purusha), and hence manifests herself as the Trinity ― thus in
way the primordial force behind the three qualities of the cosmic rhythm,
i.e. the Creator (Sarasvati or the Divine energy of sound and speech,
consort of Brahma), Preserver (Lakshmi or the Divine energy of light, the
consort of Vishnu) and Destroyer (Kāli, or the Divine energy of darkness/
dissolution, the consort of Shiva in the form of cosmic dancer). That is
how Devi is narrated as the fundamental creative energy.
By simple method of spatial arrangement of all the goddess-places
over the map of Indian sub-continent the idea of sacrality in respect to
spatiality, symbolism and land-affinity becomes distinct and unique (cf.
Singh and Singh 2006, also Singh, Singh and Rana 2002). If geography’s
major emphasis accepted is ‘the spirit of place’ (genus loci), and the
‘Earth as home of mankind’ (like Gaia), the divine power of feminine,
fertility and forms (symbolic connotations) related to the mother Earth, be
certainly considered for geographical investigation. The typological
character from local to regional and ultimately to the realm is a spiral
system representing the infinity in the extension; and the manifestation of
the pan-Indian to the level of locality expresses circularity — an idea of
shrinking universe. These two levels may be projected as ‘a march towards
micro to macro cosmos’, and in the latter case ‘from macro to micro
cosmos’. This antipodal process of duality is a clear example of continuity
and creation. In between these two polarities the structural component of
‘meso-cosmos’ may easily be perceived and purveyed (cf. Singh, Rana
2009b). This way the trinity-network of pilgrimage system becomes easily
visible on the map of India. The process of pilgrimage regulates this
network and system, and every time made active, pertinent and attractive.
The liquidity of spirit in the form of ‘river’, and the stability and coverage
74 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
***
Note: All the six figures are prepared and copyrighted © by Rana P.B. Singh.
10. References
(A) Sanskrit Sources
AV , Atharva Veda (with commentary by Sāyana). Sri Venkateshvara
Press, Bombay, 1895. (dated ca. 10th century BCE)
DbP, Srimad Devibhāgavatam, Venkateshvara Press, Bombay, 1919 (d.
ca. 8th century CE)
DM, Devi Māhātmya (Durgā Saptasati, DS). Transl. & ed. by V.S.
Agrawala. All-India Kashiraj Trust, Varanasi, 1963. [Text with
English]. (d. ca 7th century CE).
KaP, Kālikā Purāna. Bombay: Venkateshvara Press, 1891. (d. ca. 8th
century CE).
MbH, Mahābhārata. Critical ed. by V.S. Sukthankar (& others). 19 vols.
Bhandarkar Oriental Res. Inst., Baroda 1933-1959. (d. ca 4th century
CE).
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 75
Bakker, Hans T. and Entwistle, Alan (eds.) 1983. Devi. The worship of the
Goddess and its Contribution to Pilgrimage. Institute of Indian
Studies, State University of Groningen, Groningen.
Bhardwaj, Surinder Mohan 1973. Hindu Places of Pilgrimage in India.
University of California Press, Berkeley.
Coburn, Thomas B. 1988. Devi-Māhātmya. The Crystallization of
Goddess Tradition. Motilal Banarasidass, Delhi.
―. 1991. Encountering the Goddess. A Translation of the Devi Māhātmya
and a Study of its Interpretation. SUNY Press, Albany, NY.
Cooper, Adrian 1997. Sacred Mountains. Ancient Wisdom and Modern
Meanings. Floris Book, Edinburgh.
―. 1998. Sacred Nature. Ancient Wisdom and Modern Meanings.
Capaball Bann, Berks.
Darian, Steven G. 1978. The Ganges in Myth and History. University of
Hawaii Press, Honolulu.
Dave, J. H. 1970. Immortal India, Vols. I-IV. Bhartiya Vidya Bhavan,
Bombay.
Dyczkowski, Mark S.G. 2004. A Journey in the World of the Tantras.
Indica Books, Varanasi.
―. 2009a. Sacred place and inner space; in his Maithanabhairavatantram
Kumarikakhandah - The section covering the Virgin Goddess of the
Tantra of the Churning Bhairava. Vol. 1 (total 14 vols.). DK
Printworld (P) Ltd, New Delhi for Indira Gandhi National Centre for
the Arts, New Delhi: 480-719.
―. 2009b. Maithanabhairavatantram Kumarikakhandah - The section
covering the Virgin Goddess of the Tantra of the Churning Bhairava.
Vol. 2 (total 14 vols.). DK Printworld (P) Ltd, New Delhi for Indira
Gandhi National Centre for the Arts, New Delhi.
76 2. Rana P.B. Singh and Ravi S. Singh
Eck. Diana L. 1985. Darsan. Seeing the Divine Image in India. 2nd ed.
Anima Books, Chambersburg PA.
―. 1996. Gangā. The Goddess Ganges in Hindu Sacred Geography; in,
Hawley, J.S. and Wulff, D.M. (eds.) Devi: Goddess of India.
University of California Press, Berkeley: 137-153.
Eliade, Mircea 1958. Patterns in Comparative Religion. Sheed & Ward,
London.
Feldhaus, Anne 1995. Water and Womanhood: Religions Meanings of
Rivers in Maharashtra. Oxford University Press, New York.
―. 2003. Connected Places. Regions, Pilgrimage and Geographical
Imagination in India. Palgrave Macmillan, New York.
Gee, Maggie 2007. Imagining Gaia: Art living lightly with science; in,
Midgley, Mary (ed.) Earthly Realism. The Meaning of Gaia. Imprint
Academic, Exeter UK: 96-101.
Haberman, David L. 2006. River of Love in an Age of Pollution: the
Yamunā River of Northern India. University of California Press,
Berkeley.
Jha, Indra Mohan 1987. Chhinnamastā Siddhapitha Rajarappā (in Hindi).
Amar Printers, Ranchi.
Kinsley, David 1986. Hindu Goddesses: Visions of the Divine Feminine in
the Hindu Religious Tradition. University of California Press,
Berkeley.
Kramrisch, Stella 1975. The Indian Great Goddess. History of Religions,
14 (4): 235-65.
―. 1981. The Presence of Siva. Princeton University Press, Princeton, NJ.
Morinis, Allan 1984. Pilgrimage in the Hindu Tradition: A Case Study of
West Bengal. Oxford University Press, Delhi.
Parihar, Rohit and Halankar, Samar 1998. Search for the Sarasvati. India
Today (Sept. 28): pp.66-70.
Passi, Alessandro (ed.) 2008. Devi-Māhātmya. MS. 4510 of the “Vincenzo
Joppi” Municipal Library in Udine. Societa Indologia ‘Luigi Pio
Tessitori - Udine’.
Pathak, Indumati 1981 Saktipithas of India: A Study in Cultural
Geography. Unpublished Ph.D dissertation in Geography, Magadh
University, Bodh Gaya.
Singh, Rana P.B. 1990. Literary images, cultural symbols and intimate
sensing: The Gangā river in Varanasi. National Geographical Journal
of India (NGSI Varanasi), 36 (1-2): 117-128.
―. 1996. The Gangā river and the spirit of sustainability in Hinduism; in,
Swan, James and R. Swan, Roberta (eds.) Dialogues with the Living
Earth. Quest Books, Wheaton, IL: 86-107.
Sacred Places of Goddesses in India 77
---------------------------------------
Annette Wilke
University of Münster, Germany
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. De-localisation is a prominent feature of the goddess Lalitā-
Tripurasundari. The shrichakra, her ritual diagram, is her true pitha.
Through outlining the shrichakra’s cognitive mapping and multileveled
functions in the correlation of external and internal space it becomes easy
to discuss the “mesocosm” of Bhaktapur and proposing a structural
reading of the navāvarana sequence of the shrichakrapujā. It is noted that
sacred topography is not missing, but was shifted from earthly to cosmic
dimensions and from outer to inner space, or preferably to some
intermediary space in between. In regard to Bhaktapur, the ritually enforced
mandalic scheme intends social, political and religious space organization,
while its inaction in the navāvarana-puja ideally leads to psychological
integration on the basis of triadic and binary codes. Nava- āvarana-pujā
may be called a mental journey, in which the practitioner travels through
the power of imagination and visualization to the very source of the
universe and the human psyche and returns, in order to arrive at an
intermediary space in which the inner and outer world become united in a
singular continuum of consciousness-bliss.
Keywords. Mental journey, shrichakra, shrichakrapujā, pitha, Bhaktapur,
navāvarana, human psyche.
Note: diacritic marks are used only for long ‘a’ as ā, and not used for other words.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
The goddess Lalitā-Tripurasundari whose worship discussed here
attracted (late) David Kinsley’s attention in his last major publication:
80 3. Annette Wilke
Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine (1997). In this book, devoted to the
ten Mahāvidyās, Kinsley emphasised the almost entire lack of a close
association of these goddesses with sacred places or “organic symbols” of
the sacred (Kinsley 1997: p. 61f.) If this is totally true one may ask: why
bring in Lalitā-Tripurasundari, one of the Mahāvidyās, in a book on sacred
geography? But this paper would like to focus on both, the delocalized and
the less known geographical aspect of Lalitā-Tripurasundari. For
Tripurasundari is very much localized in Nepal, specifically as queen of
the city mandala of Bhaktapur. At the same time she is indeed translocal.
The shrichakra, her ritual diagram, is her true pitha (seat of power). This
paper outlines the shrichakra’s cognitive mapping and multileveled
functions in the correlation of external and internal space by discussing the
“mesocosm” Bhaktapur and the navāvarana sequence of the shrichakrapujā.
Before going into this subject matter, I start with some general remarks.
and details of worship. The whole text of the ritual was thereby transformed
into a series of variations on the theme of nonduality and the nondualization
of awareness” (Sanderson 1995: p. 47).
Along these lines I suggest that sacred topography is not missing, but
was shifted from earthly to cosmic dimensions and from outer to inner
space, or preferably: to some intermediary space in between. Bhaktapur
has been called a “mesocosm.” The correlation of city space and cosmic
space in the Bhaktapur mandala gets ritually reinforced by the Navadurgā
pilgrimage cycle. Similar to this is the body-mind-complex viewed in
Shrividyā as mesocosm, which is ritually reinforced by the shrichakra-
pujā. The ritual may be called a mental journey, travelling by the power of
ritual, imagination and visualization to the source of the universe and of
the human’s psyche and back, correlating thereby inner space and cosmic
space to expand the human frame into a cosmic body and mind. The
archemedic point is to arrive at an intermediary space in which the inner
and outer world becomes united in the singular continuum of
consciousness-bliss. Organic symbols are not at all lacking, since this
mental journey is based on some quite natural symbols: body, mind and
consciousness, and physical pairs of opposites like male and female. Other
Shrividyā rituals, like the khadgamālāpujā, include as basic symbols the
waning and waxing phases of the moon, correlating them with goddesses
and letters of the alphabet, and may be called a verbal journey in time. In
the following I am going to restrict my attention to the shrichakra as a
cosmic blueprint and its cognitive mapping. I argue that it inspired the
mandalic scheme of Bhaktapur to serve social and political space
organization. Contrasting with this geographical perspective I would like
to emphasise the spiritual and symbolic significance by a structural
reading of the navāvarana sequence of the shrichakrapujā, showing that it
ideally leads to psychological integration on the basis of triadic and binary
codes. Although mainly speaking of ideal types from emic and etic
perspectives in the first sections, I shall not shun the tricky question on
how the ideal relates to the “real” life in the last chapter. The overall
theme of the paper is the connection between sacred geography and
esoteric interpretation of Tripurasundari. In other words: we are dealing
with the complex connection between body and soul of the goddess or
between signifier and significant.
Mental Journey, Cosmic Topography: Shrichakra 83
the city space, but also helped to organize and integrate the stratified social
life: the geometrically idealized city is hierarchically organized in a series
of concentric circles from the centre to the circumference, from top to
bottom, from high status (king and Rājopādhyāya Brahmans) to low status
social groups (Jyāpu: farmers) with the butchers forming a ring around the
outer extremities and the untouchable Po(n)s outside the city. When one
visits the Ashtamātrikā during Dasain, not only is the city’s border
circumambulated but also the social order reconfirmed by the assignment
of specific ritual functions to specific social groups.
The projection of the intangible ideal varna scheme upon the tangible
factual city is of course a high caste Brahmin perspective, just like
Slusser’s idealization of the city-mandala as “spiritual instrument to
overcome the manifested world”. Bhaktapur citizens may hardly assess it
this way. If they worship the Navadurgā they are sure of gaining religious
merit and a good deal of fun and sense gratification by listening to the
various musical groups (singers, drummers, flute players), by seeing the
special vows and rituals displayed (living theatre ranging from the
aesthetically pleasing to the cruel) including animal sacrifices (with an
abundant subsequent meal). Hardly anyone would perceive Tripurasundari
as the city queen. In fact, her pitha is less well frequented than others,
because the ninth day abounds with all sorts of extra rituals, and the
worship of Taleju ranks first. Levy (1990: 168) states bluntly that “the
curious thing” about Tripurasundari nowadays is “the absence of what she
once was.”
We thus find the awkward situation that prominent scholars on Nepal
like Slusser, Levy, Toffin, and also Niels Gutschow (1996) point out
Tripurasundari’s central role as Queen of the city-mandala and Ninth
Durgā, but treat her as a relict of the past or a mere conceptual scheme.
None of these scholars relate her to the shrichakra and Shrividyā worship.
From the manuscript catalogues and discussions with local informants (in
autumn 2000) I conclude that this goddess is neither a relict of the past nor
a mere concept. The vast amount of Newari manuscripts makes clear that
the Nepali Tripurasundari is also associated with Shrividyā worship,
Kundalini-Yoga, the shrichakra and with texts prominent in the South. I
have learned from the head priest of the Taleju temple, Kedar Rāj
Rājopadhyāya, and other local informants that her worship does not
belong only to the past. Rather, the Nepali takes secrecy more seriously
than others, as Mark Dyczkowski (2000: 2) has pointed out. The Nepali
Tripurasundari is a very secret āgan deity known only to a well-versed,
mainly Brahmin elite such as Rājopadhyāya initiates and Bhatta priests of
the Pashupatināth temple near Kathmandu (stemming from the South), as
86 3. Annette Wilke
cult reformation, but in Nepal blood sacrifices were retained while the
Southern variant changed them into “pure” (vegetarian) offerings.
Undoubtedly the shrichakra as ritual diagram serves exactly the end
proposed by Slusser concerning Bhaktapur: it is a means of transcending
the manifested world. If the city space may be conceived as a mandala or
yantra, the yantra on the other hand may be conceived as a virtual cosmic
topography and its worship as a mental journey. While pilgrimages and
circumambulations (like visiting the Asthamātrikā-pithas of Bhaktapur
during Dasain) are powerful cultural devices to shape landscapes, to
convert nature into culture and to bring about social integrity, the Lalitā
rituals are equally powerful devices to shape the human mind, to convert
the human into the divine and to bring about integrity of the psyche. In
each case, the mandalic scheme is a mental map to induce micro- and
macrocosmic correspondences. Just as the urban space of Bhaktapur
attains cosmic dimensions through the mandalic scheme, so too do the
human body and mind attain cosmic dimensions by it. This is precisely the
purpose of shrichakrapujā. Just like Bhaktapur with its socially stratified
citizens is conceived as cosmos and mandala, here the human body with
its physical, sensory, emotive aspects and yogic centres is conceived as
cosmos and mandala. The worshipper imagines the entire cosmos in
his/her body, “by conceiving it to be the divine mansion, wherein all the
attendant deities and the entire galaxy are present” (Gupta 1979: 136).
Here the rings of protecting deities represent sensory perceptions, mental
modes and intellectual concepts. The adept is the chakravartin who seeks
to attain sovereignty over the forces of reality and his psyche. His first and
final aim is complete identity with the goddess and her creative powers.
This is accomplished by realizing her most subtle form, pure
consciousness and bliss, the mystical oneness of all opposites.
themselves deeply upon this symbolism. Among all Hindu ritual diagrams
the shrichakra has been over-coded the most with esoteric meanings, the
major one of which is that the shrichakra is not only a cosmogram, but
also an androgynous symbol of the divine (cf. Fig. 3.1). The five major
triangles (pointing downward) symbolize the female principle, while the
four major (upward) triangles represent the male principle. With these nine
overlapping triangles and the central bindu, the shrichakra signifies the
constant union of Shiva and Shakti. Also its rings or enclosures are
attributed either to Shiva or to Shakti, as is documented in Lakshmidhara’s
commentary on the Saundaryalahari. The undifferentiated oneness of
Shiva and Shakti in the bindu represents the creation in its unmanifest state
and at the same time the creative impulse of pure consciousness to express
itself. It is noteworthy that, unlike the Ardhanārishvara figure, the
shrichakra is an utterly female connoted androgynous symbol. Its deities,
understood as partial manifestations of the queen of the cakra, are also
female. According to Shrividyā hermeneutics the bindu itself is not only a
single dot, but has to be visualised as swelling into a triad of three dots
denoting breasts and vagina of the Mother Goddess. It is well known that
the triangle is the most important symbol of the cosmic Mother in Hindu
culture. It signifies her womb (yoni), the creative source of all phenomena.
Already the visual appeal of the shrichakra which basically consists of
triangles and sub-triangles thus strongly evokes its female character.
Metaphysically and structurally, the differentiation and final merger of
triads and binary opposites is a constant theme of its worship.
In Shrividyā the yantra, like the (Panchadashi-)mantra, is supposed to
be the “self-expression of the goddess in her most essential form.”
(Kinsley 1998: 126) “As the svarupa (own form) of the goddess, who
encompasses all reality, everything inheres in the Shri cakra; all of reality
and the very nature of reality can be read in terms of it”. This is precisely
what is done in the shrichakrapujā ‒ especially in the āvaranapujā
sequence. Like all tantric worship shrichakrapujā presupposes initiation.
The ritual consists to a major part of verbal acts and symbolic gestures
(mudrās). There is a strong emphasis on mental or interior pujā in which
the concrete offerings are merely imagined and even substituted by inner
virtues (cf. Gupta 1979: 145). It is not possible to present here the whole
interior and exterior ritual sequence and its symbolism. It is simply too
complex, and much of it is only known to initiates. My aim is only to
outline some major points of the cognitive mapping in the āvaranapujā,
with special emphasis on the outermost and innermost enclosures (for
details see Rao 1989: 26-38, Gupta 1987: 19-23, 146ff, Khanna 1986:
194-316). Roughly speaking, this ritual is a virtual journey to the source of
Mental Journey, Cosmic Topography: Shrichakra 91
the universe and of the human psyche, and at the same time an
empowerment to partake in the involution and evolution of the universe.
Āvaranapujā may be performed in the modes of shrishthi-krama
(“sequence of creation,” commencing from the bindu), stithi-krama
(“sequence of sustenance,” commencing from the octagon), or samhāra-
krama (“sequence of dissolution”, commencing from the outermost
periphery, the square). Some attribute the different modes to different
āshramas, as I have learnt from personal communications; others suggest
combining the sequences, whereas all pujā manuals I have used favour
the samhāra-krama. While in the shrishthi-krama the worshipper does
envisage within himself the process of creation moving outwards from the
central point (bindu) and ending with the square, the order gets reversed in
the samhāra-krama, denoting the revision of the creative process, the
dissolution of the universe, of the everyday world (macrocosm) and of the
human frame, the empirical self of the worshipper (microcosm). In fact,
the procedure of shrishthi-krama presupposes the samhāra-krama, just
like all (Trika based) tantric worship presupposes the ritual/spiritual death
followed by the deification of the worshipper to render him qualified for
worship. Therefore the Shrividyā ritual involves also other methods of
involution such as ātmashuddhi by which the elements step by step
become mentally and ritually merged in their cosmic source. This
imagined dissolution is followed by the retracing of each step of cosmic
creation, while at the same time the worshipper envisages his own
resurrection in a transformed, divine body. The very same structure also
underlies the āvaranapujā.
Āvarana is the technical name of the concentric rings of triangles,
lotuses, circles and squares and their presiding macro- and micro- cosmic
forces. Its primary sense literally means “covering, hiding, obscuring,
obstructing,” but it is also understood as “enclosure, fence” or anything
that covers and protects. Correspondingly, the āvarana-deities are
covering and deluding forces who obscure the real, non-dual nature of
reality. At the same time they are protectors and aids in the spiritual
progress of unification. In both aspects they are understood to represent
different aspects of the queen of the chakra. Each is invoked with her
name, a bijamantra and the formula shripādukām pujayāmi tarpayāmi
namah (“Salutations, I worship and offer refreshments to the blessed
sandals (of NN)”).
In the āvaranapujā all elements (sub-triangles, lotus-leafs, etc.) of the
shrichakra are associated with their own names, their own characteristics
and a special spiritual significance. They represent female deities (shaktis)
who in turn figure as symbols of positive and negative sensory,
92 3. Annette Wilke
extrasensory, emotive and intellectual forces, i.e. they are “symbols of the
urges, aspirations, inhibitions, limitations, obstructions and powers within
the individual devotee himself” (Rao 1989: 27). At the same time the rings
of forces denote specific moments of the cyclic process of creation,
conservation and dissolution. Furthermore each ring is associated with a
philosophical school, letters of the alphabet, yogic energy centres, a
specific mudrā, a presiding goddess (composite names with Tripura-) and
her Bhairava. There are thus symbolic meanings on many different levels
(cognitive, instinctive, emotive, sensual, spiritual), which cannot be dealt
with in detail. In this paper, suggest a structural reading with an emphasis
on triadic and binary features, and a focus on the psychological side of it.
While the first and outermost protective enclosure of three lines (called
trailokyamohana, “Deluder of the three realms”) with the Ashtamātrikā in
94 3. Annette Wilke
the middle marks the boundary, the eighth and, properly speaking, final
enclosure (called sarvasiddhiprada, “Bestower of all perfections”) consists
of the innermost, free-standing triangle that marks the dwelling place of
the queen of the chakra. The number three and the triad form the basic
classificatory system and are loaded with different levels of meaning (see
Khanna 1986: 84-89, 311-314). Even the ritual manuals give details on the
esoteric correlations. The Shrividyāvarivasyā and Shrichakrārchanadipikā
list among others given in the Table 3.3.
These elements are known to all schools of Shrividyā, but the way of
correlation may differ (compare Shrividyāsaparyāpaddhati, 1987: 80;
Khanna 1986: 271; Rao 1989: 35; Sastry 1985: 13). The message remains
the same: The triangle stands first of all for the three creative functions of
the Great Goddess (creation/ emanation, maintenance/ conservation,
dissolution/ absorption). The Tāntrika meditates on these functions as
goddesses in order to comprehend the world as the pluralisation of the
divine and as divine unity; this becomes clear by the ninth enclosure. The
eighth enclosure is assigned to Shāktism, while the final ninth enclosure
(called sarvānandamayi, “Consisting of nothing but bliss”) is assigned to
Shaivism.
The ninth “enclosure,” the central dot (bindu), actually transcends the
enclosures. It denotes the mystic state of pure non-dual bliss, the
undifferentiated oneness of all opposites (subject and object, I and world,
Mental Journey, Cosmic Topography: Shrichakra 95
Shiva and Shakti) and the merger of the most basic triad, i.e., knower,
known and knowledge. The bindu symbolises in this way creation in the
state of complete mystic involution and the Goddess as the highest power
and energy, being the quintessence of all Shaktis, powers and forces. At
this stage the goddess is representative of the highest Brahman and pure
chidānanda (consciousness-bliss) which encompasses and transcends the
world of plurality. While the innermost triangle is thought to be white in
colour, the central point is red, because it also represents the very first
impulse to create, the free will of the Goddess to initiate the manifested
world. It thus signifies the primordial vibration (spanda), the
(self-)reflection (vimarsha, denoting Shakti) of the pure, objectless
awareness (prakāsha, denoting Shiva). One of the most common
imageries of Lalitā-Tripurasundari is radiant light and rosy effulgence. She
is the light of lights. I therefore add this imagery to the correspondences
given in Shrividyāvarivasyā and Shrichakrārchanadipikā (Table 3.4):
all individual shaktis of the fourth enclosure (with which the yantra proper
starts) up to the sixth enclosure bear names with sarva-. Some of the
mudrashakti-names (first enclosure) are identical with shakti-names of the
fourth enclosure (Sarvasankshobhini, Sarvavidrāvini, Sarvākarshini,
Sarvonmādini), while the last shakti-name of the fourth Sarvadvandva-
kshayankari (“Destroyer of duality”, in some versions: Sarvadvandvamayi,
“Made up of all phenomenal duality”) relates semantically to the first
shaktis (Vāshini, etc.) of the seventh enclosure (octagon surrounding the
innermost triangle) who are associated with the basic opposites: cold and
heat, and joy and sorrow (see Rao 1989: 34). There are more interrelations
of this kind. Already the ordered pattern of names makes clear that we are
dealing with a highly artful composition which suggests the idea that
higher (subtler) levels are reflected in lower (grosser) levels of existence
and which casts the great Hindu theme of plurality and oneness into an
ordered system. Some attendants do directly relate to the symbolic level by
the semantic significance of their names, while others are over coded with
symbolic meaning by the tradition. In the latter case I depend on Rao
(1989: 29ff.). An interpretation of this scheme is given Table 3.5.
II “ALL”-NAMES
4. SARVAsaubh Provider of 14 triangles Starting with Nādis (yogic
āya- all -SARVA, “all” nerve
dārika auspicious (four of them channels)
things synonym
with four Mudra-
shaktis of 1.,
last: >Sarvad-
vandva-
kshayankari >cf.
7. opposites)
5. SARVĀrthasā Accomp- 10 outer Starting with Utterly
dhaka lisher of all triangles -SARVA, “all” positive
aims (first: Sarva* vision of
siddhi*-pradā, deity
cf. 8.) and reality
6. SARVArakshā Protector of 10 inner Starting with Vital fires
kara all triangles -SARVA, “all” (yogic
(among them: control of
>Sarvavyādhi- vital
vināshini, cf. 7. functions)
and >>Sarva-
ānandamayi, cf.
9.)
III INDIVIDUAL
NAMES
7. >SARVAroga Remover of 8 triangles EACH DIFFERENT Pairs of
hara all diseases (8 goddesses of opposites
speech: among and three
them >>> gunas
Kāmeshvari)
8. SARVA* Bestower Innermost TRIAD: Three divine
siddhi* of all triangle >>>- powers,
prada perfections Kāmeshvari cosmic
-Vajreashvari functions,
-Bhagamālini pithas,
mystic states
9. >>SARVĀnan Consisting Bindu QUEEN OF THE Pure non-
damaya of nothing (“drop” in CHAKRA: dual Bliss
but bliss the centre) Shri (Lalitā-) (merger of
Mahā- triads and
Tripurasundari binary
opposites),
containing
creative
impulse
98 3. Annette Wilke
“This universe is nothing but shakti, or power. This shakti is the Goddess,
she who contains within herself all opposites. The purpose of my life is to
access this power, to plug into the ultimate power source and be filled with
it until I become that power myself. Until and unless you see all forms as
the pulsating power of the Goddess, you are still in bondage. If your vision
is dualistic, then you know you are bound. When you see all forms as
expressions of the one Goddess, then you are free… The Goddess contains
within herself all of these forms. This is why we call her Vishvarupa Devi,
the Goddess whose form is the universe. And what is that form? It is pure
power, pure shakti in the form of the Shri Yantra” (Sthanesvara, cit. by
Lidke 2000: Pt. I: 17).
Shrividyā adepts are certain that their ideal is reality-based. They claim
to feel the divine power. All Lalitā-Tripurasundari worshippers I met
attribute the success in their lives to the goddess. Quite a few relate that
they had been in an awful crisis which got solved after starting to worship
her. In fact, they merely learnt to cope with difficulties: Not only good, but
also bad things happening, not only success, but also failures are seen as
her play and her will. This coping strategy helps to face problems and to
deal with difficulties more serenely. Worshipping the goddess gives a
strong sense of being protected and being part of her creative power.
The fusion of the outer and inner world is not unproblematic. It may
lead to an excessive religious habitués which separates devotees from
common sense and ordinary social behaviour. Some Shrividyā upāsakas
relate extraordinary visions of deities and supra-natural light. This shift
from the normal is sometimes not even understood by their closest
relatives who fear for the saneness of the visionary.
There is still another shadow side to it: People are afraid that
neglecting to worship the goddess brings problems, maybe even great
disaster. Psychologically speaking, we find positive and negative
transferences, just as in other religions. Religions take away fear, but also
stimulate fear. This is how they enforce their moral codes. Shrividyā
initiates tend to point out the dangers for non-initiates to worship the
goddess. Thereby they protect their moral codes of purity and correct ritual
performance. The number of initiates is fairly restricted, thus adding to the
pride of belonging to spiritual elite. In fact, it is often also a social elite.
Shrividyā right hand practitioners are usually educated, upper middle class
men and women who are mostly Brahmins and know Sanskrit. They have
gone through different stages of initiation, which in turn determines their
ritual duties. Shrichakrapujā presupposes a fare amount of mantra
repetition. It depends on a life-style in which one can afford to spend a
good amount of spare time with rituals. shrichakrapujā is very time-
consuming. If done properly and not only in an abridged form, it takes
four hours. I have met a businessman in Chennai (Madras) who quit his
job in order to take the place of his guru who had passed away, and carry
out the worship from now on daily like his guru did before. To the ritual
belong besides many nyāsas the recitation of the 1000, 108 and 300 names
of Lalitā and homa. In addition to the expenditure of time, the ideal ritual
presupposes high intellectual capacities and knowledge of Sanskrit as well
as enough financial resources to afford the vast amount of flowers, food
offerings and other (partly quite valuable) offerings. Due to all this, only a
few perform shrichakrapujā daily, although this would be the ideal.
Moreover, those who perform it only occasionally are often not
106 3. Annette Wilke
6. References
Cathérine, Clément and Kakar, Sudhir S. 1995. Der Heilige und die
Verrückte: Religiöse Ekstase und psychische Grenzerfahrung. Beck,
München.
Dyczkowski, Mark 2000. Kubjikā, Kāli, Tripurā and Trika. Franz Steiner,
Stuttgart.
Gupta, Sanjukta and Nijnhuis, E. te 1987. Sacred Songs of India.
Dikshitar’s Cycle of Hymns to the Goddess Kamalā, Pt. I. Amadeus,
Winterthur.
Gupta, Sanjukta and Hoens, D.J. (eds.) 1979. Hindu Tantrism. Brill,
Leiden.
Gutschow, Niels, 1996. The Ashtamātrikā and Navadurgā of Bhaktapur;
in, Michaels, Axel et al. (eds.), Wild Goddesses in India and Nepal.
Lang, Bern: 191-216.
Khanna, Madhu 1986. The Concept and Liturgy of the Shrichakra based
on Shivānanda’s Trilogy. Unpublished PhD thesis, Oxford University,
Oxford.
Kinsley, David 1997. Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine: The Ten
Mahāvidyās. University of California Press, Berkeley.
Lalitā-Sahastranāma with Bhāskarachāya’s commentary, transl. by R.
Ananthakirshna Sastry 1968. Adyar Library, Madras (1st ed. 1899).
Levy, Robert 1992. Mesocosm: Hinduism and the Organization of a
Traditional Newar City in Nepal. Motilal Banarasidass, Delhi (1st ed.
University of California Press, Berkeley 1990).
Lidke, Jeffrey 2000. The Goddess within and beyond the three Cities:
Shākta Tantra and the Paradox of Power in Nepāla-Mandala.
Unpublished PhD thesis, University of California, Santa Barbara.
Rao, S.K. Ramachandra 1989. Shri Chakra. Satguru Publ., Mew Delhi.
Sanderson, Alexis 1995. Meaning in Tantric ritual; in, Blondeau, A.M.
and Schiper, K. (eds.) Essais sur le rituel III. Peeters, Louvain-Paris:
pp. 10-95.
―. 1988. Shaivism and the Tantric Traditions; in, Sutherland, S. (ed.)
The World’s Religions. Routledge, London.
Sastry, T.V. Kapali 1985. Quintessence of Sri Vidya: The Mahamanu-
stava. Introduction & translation by S. Shankaranarayanan. Dipti,
Pondicherry (1st ed. 1969).
Slusser, Mary 1998. Nepal Mandala: A Cultural Study of the Kathmandu
Valley. Princeton University Press, Princeton (1st ed. 1982).
Shrichakrārchanadipikā 1984. Chidananda Mandali, Madras.
Shrividyāsaparyāpaddhati 1987. Bombay (Mumbai).
108 3. Annette Wilke
-----------------------------------------------
§ Annette Wilke has received her doctoral degree in 1994 in philosophy from
university of Bern; and since 1998 she is serving as University professor and
director of the Seminar for General Religious Studies at the Catholic Theological
Faculty of the Westfälische Wilhelms-Universität Münster. Having training in
Sanskrit literature, religious history and Tantra, her present researches deal with
Hinduism, devotional and ritual practices, phenomenology and aesthetics of verbal
and non-verbal communication, Hindu Diaspora in Germany, systematic and
comparative religion, intercultural dialogue, and translation and analysis of the
Parasurāma Kalapasutra. She is giving special courses on Hindu deities and their
worship, survey methods of empirical science of religion, and seminars on Yoga
and Tantra.
4
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. Vaishno Devi in Jammu has been designated as the “Elder
Sister” among the six other Devi shrines in a fairly narrow belt of the
Siwāliks between the Yumunā and Chenāb Rivers. During the last few
decades Vaishno Devi has become especially important. Pilgrimage to the
shrine has increased from 30,000 to almost 7 million since Independence,
when the political geography of the region increased accessibility, both
physically and perceptually. The growth in the number of visitors can be
attributed also to a change in administration of the shrine and to the
tremendous increase in religious tourism. Vaishno Devi is now the
preeminent goddess among the Seven Sisters of the Siwāliks.
Keywords. Vaishno Devi, Siwāliks, meaning, performances, changes,
administration, pilgrimage.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
In recent years, worship of the Devi has become very important in the
Siwālik region of northern India. The potential significance was
recognized by Bhardwaj (1971) several decades ago when he focused
attention on numerous Devi shrines concentrated in a fairly narrow belt of
the Siwāliks between the Yumunā and the Chenāb (Fig. 4.1). What he
found significant was the relative abundance of popular Devi shrines in the
sparsely populated hill region and their contrasting scarcity in the
adjoining populous Punjab plains. He theorized that:
The popularity of these shrines largely rests on the pilgrimages
performed by the people of the plains region. The motive of the pilgrims
suggests an intimate association of the Devi cult with the material aspects
of mundane existence. Association of the Devi cult with blood sacrifice
110 4. Georgana Foster and Robert Stoddard
[is] its relative popularity among the scheduled castes and with the folk
element of the society, and the religiously peripheral nature of this cult to
Sanskritic Hinduism, particularly to Vaishnavism. The spatially marginal
nature of this cult may be due to the spread of the cults of male deities
under Vaishnavism in the populous areas. The relatively poor accessibility
of the Siwālik Hills region may have served as a refuge area for this cult as
well as a less disturbed domain for its autonomous existence. Increased
circulation and contact with the plains people is bringing about
fundamental changes in the rituals of worship and among the priestly
caste.
Fig. 4.1. Siwālik Region: Devi (goddesses) shrines.
At the time of his study, Bhardwaj did not mention Vaishno Devi as
being more important than the other Devi shrines; in fact, he did not even
include the Vaishno Devi shrine among the five he studied in greater
detail. However, fifteen years later when Erndl (1993) did intensive
research on the Devi shrines in this region, the relative importance of the
shrines had changed. She found that Vaishno Devi had become much
more popular than the other six “Sisters” (Mansā Devi, Chintāpurni, Nainā
Devi, Jvāliji [Jvālāmukhi], Kāngra [Kāngrevāli Devi or Vajreshvari], and
Chāmundā).
Pilgrimage to the shrine increased rapidly after 1976, when physical
changes were made to accommodate 5,000 per day. By 1981, the annual
number of pilgrims to the Vaishno Devi shrine was approximately 900,000
(Foster 1986: 52), but by a decade later, the total was over three million.
In 2001 the number of visitors exceeded five million, and by 2007 almost
seven and a half million pilgrims came to the shrine.
What are some possible explanations for the rising popularity of the
Vaishno Devi shrine? We seek reasons by looking at changes in the
Vaishno Devi in Siwāliks 111
themselves because the demon has been given the boon, through his
austerities, of being killed only by a woman. Destroying many others in
the Mahisha army, and ultimately cutting off his head, is done for all the
gods. But in the Vaishno Devi myths, especially as framed in recent years
by the Dharmārth Trust, the Devi is given instructions only by Vishnu, in
his form as Rāma, to be incarnated and to dwell in this region on the
Trikuta Mountain. The main origin myth of this type features Vaishno
Devi, as a daughter of Ratna Sāgar (who is said to live in “the South”),
who meditates and performs penance in the forest, in order to have Rāma
as her husband, in the same manner as Pārvati did to marry Shiva. She
meets Rāma as he is going to Lanka to rescue Sitā. On his return, he tells
her he is married to Sitā so cannot marry her in this Age. He instructs her
to go and dwell in a cave in the Trikuta Mountains and meditate; she will
retain the powers she has gained from remaining a virgin, and she will be
honoured there. This explains her title, Ādikumāri, Virgin Forever. This
version de-emphasizes the fighting and blood sacrifice, as in the offering
of the head by devotees, which is a central part of the myth at Jvālāmukhi.
Many other myths of the Jammu region illustrate how Vaishno Devi
helps her devotees gain the boon of sons, bountiful harvests, and
protection from enemies. All of these traditions bolster the assurance that
coming to her is auspicious.
One type of myth relates the Devi’s protection of poor peasants who
are exploited by kings and landlords. One version of this type is found in
“The Story of Bābā Jittoo” (Kaul 1980). In this long and complex myth, a
poor peasant devotee of Vaishno Devi, Jitmal (Jittoo) had a bountiful crop
of grain, due to Vaishno Devi, who had been incarnated as his daughter.
The king (Vir Singh), upon seeing this abundant crop, demanded half of
the harvest instead of the one-fourth as agreed upon, and sent his men to
get it. In despair, Jittoo prayed to the Devi, who tells him to leave the
world, and dwell with her, and she will deal with the king. Jittoo takes his
own life and lies bleeding on the grain, which pollutes it for anyone who
eats it. In the conclusion of the myth, King Vir Singh becomes a leper, his
property burns, and he and associates go insane.
The association with Jittoo is collaborated by another source (Drieberg
and Sahni 1978: 56), which describes the Jhiri Fair (held west of Jammu
City in the fall). This fair is held at the height of the pilgrimage season to
Vaishno Devi in honour of the “memory of Bābaā Jittoo, who died 500
years ago fighting feudal tyranny.” At the fair, descendants of the thieves
who robbed Jittoo of his grain are compelled to furnish free food for a
feast.
Vaishno Devi in Siwāliks 113
4. Changes in Accessibility
The Shri Mātā Vaishno Devi Shrine Board has continued to develop
facilities that cater to the comforts of visitors and improve conditions
meant to encourage more pilgrims. These include modifying the physical
environment of the shrine and adding accommodations that make the
13km approach trek less arduous. In contrast to the previous steep climb
to the sacred cave, the approach is now via a smooth, gently sloping tiled
surface lined with night lights. Along the way are necessities such as
potable water, sanitation accommodations, vending and food stands, and
medical services. Another type of improvement is control over tours; for
example, over those who offer the “service” of easing entrance to the cave,
sometimes by taking bribes to help patrons jump the queues
The previous rocky entry to the cave via a ninety-foot tunnel has been
completely closed and replaced with new entrances and exits. Currently a
third tunnel is planned to smooth the progress of pilgrims into and out of
the shrine cave. The cavern now is floored with spotless white marble.
Within the holy sector the Shrine Board provides numerous services such
as a medical dispensary, chemical shop, post office, telephone exchange,
bank, and police station.
These changes in the physical conditions may not always be viewed
positively. For example, by closing the original tunnel, worshippers
bypass the temple of Bhairava (Foster 1986) and therefore do not
symbolically enter the womb of the goddess; nor can they step on the
headless body of Bhairava (Mehra 2000). In fact, some devout pilgrims
regard the hardships encountered when approaching the sacred site as
essential for gaining full merit, while enjoying the luxuries of an easy
access to the shrine diminishes its religious significance.
116 4. Georgana Foster and Robert Stoddard
Also, the conditions that make a pilgrimage easier and thus attract
greater numbers, in turn, create other negative factors. The tremendous
number of pilgrims burdens essential services (e.g., sanitation and crowd
control) that are necessary for moving the thousands of daily visitors. This
is illustrated dramatically by the fact that movement of the massive
number of visitors allows each pilgrim an average of only five seconds to
view the three holy Pindis. It should be noted that, after the third tunnel is
completed and the movement of pilgrims can be made faster, the pause for
darshan is expected to be thirty seconds.
Policies have been established to relieve congestion and provide
security. After June 2007, when an average of 37,000 persons per month
visited the holy site, the Shrine Board decided to allot only 30,000 entries
each month in subsequent years. This regulation is achieved by issuing
yātrā registration slips, either through the Internet or at a counter located
near the Darshani Darwāzā, which permit entrance for the holders. In
addition, security has been increased by photographing and fingerprinting
each visitor.
Fig. 4.2. Roads in the Siwāliks.
way to the sacred area; instead the last 13km of the pilgrimage must be
achieved on foot. Nevertheless, in terms of the total patronage, the
development of the Vaishno Devi shrine does suggest that administrative
policies and site improvement affect pilgrimage patterns.
The element of accessibility also applies at a regional scale.
Accessibility to the Vaishno Devi shrine has been increased by the
extension of the railroad network and the speed of trains.
Likewise since Independence, numerous roads were constructed in the
mountainous regions for military purposes, as well as for pilgrims. Now
roads connect all the Devi shrines (Fig.4.2), but those connecting Vaishno
Devi to major cities of northern India allow faster travel than to the other
holy sites. For example, visitors from Delhi can now make the journey in
a weekend and be back in their offices on Monday.
Another way of getting to the Vaishno Devi shrine ‒ by helicopter ‒
was used by Prime Minister Indira Gandhi in 1980. It was announced in
1999 (India Abroad, 1999) that helicopter service was to be extended to
regular pilgrims who could not undertake the arduous trek to the shrine.
Also at that time, plans were being made to use a small aircraft that could
land on the Mantalāi airstrip near the Vaishno Devi shrine.
No comparable travel service is provided to the shrines of the other
Sisters. This disparity, however, is probably more the result of special
demands for convenient and speedy transportation than the initial
causative factor for large differences in pilgrimage numbers. Popularity
affects the perceptual accessibility of places. Not only has travel to these
shrines become easier through time but also the perceptions of
accessibility have changed. For most human movement, it is not just the
physical ease of travel that affects behaviour but also the perception about
how easy it is to get to a desired destination. Changes in perceptions have
been influenced greatly by the mass communications and popular culture.
Although debates arise about the impact of popular culture on religious
behaviour in general, most observers have noted an increase in many
religious practices with the rise of mass media. As Milton Singer (1972)
observed, urbanization and the increased use of mass media do not
necessarily result in more secularization, but rather the democratization of
religious practices.
Mass communication has changed the perceived accessibility of these
Himalayan shrines, which were once considered remote and difficult to
visit. Now, with greater publicity provided through pamphlets, radio,
television, cinema, and even Internet, potential pilgrims regard the Devi
shrines as attainable destinations. When combined with the actual ease of
118 4. Georgana Foster and Robert Stoddard
taking group tours to the shrines, the increase in pilgrim numbers is not
surprising.
Tours and the popularity of visits to the shrines of the Seven Sisters
have affected the number of pilgrims to all the shrines. However, as with
most activities those depend largely on mass publicity, the most popular
gains the greatest. Whether they are music idols in Japan or sports heroes
in the United States, those who gain an advantage over their “competitors”
usually rise rapidly in popularity as success creates even more popularity.
It seems very plausible, therefore, that any increase in the popularity of the
Vaishno Devi shrine is soon amplified by publicity through mass media
and informal networks, which are facilitated by modern technology.
6. Concluding Remarks.
In recent years, the veneration of Vaishno Devi has become very
important, both in the spread of places where she can be worshiped and in
the number of pilgrims going to her shrine in the Siwāliks. The
importance is demonstrated partly by the several temples and shrines in
the Punjab, Delhi, and elsewhere that replicates the original and provides
additional opportunities for worship. For example, a large old temple in
Ludhiana was rededicated to her, with the entrance flanked by Bhairava
and Hanumān. By 1995 a new temple in Ludhiana and a reconfigured one
in Delhi featured tunnels like the one at the cave on Trikuta, which allow
one to make the pilgrimage to the Devi without leaving one’s own city.
The extreme examples of this trend toward making Mātā Vaishno Devi
Vaishno Devi in Siwāliks 121
more accessible are the web sites that provide darshan (auspicious
glimpse) of the goddess electronically.
The importance of this Devi of the Siwāliks is acclaimed in song,
bhajans (devotional songs), children’s stories, and videos. Her popularity
is also displayed by the multitude of signboards and pictures on trucks,
buses, vendor carts, calendars, and posters (Fig. 4.3). Invariably the
goddess is riding on her vāhana (vehicle), dressed in red wedding attire,
with all her jewellery. She wears the “victory mangala” garland, and in
her four to eight arms she holds several weapons symbolic of Vishnu and
Shiva. The connection with the Vaishno Devi shrine is often indicated by
its setting among snow capped mountains, particularly among the three
peaks of Trikuta. Also included are the accompanying attendants of
Hanumān (the Langur Vir of the myth), carrying a red flag with garuda on
it, and Bāla Bhairava (a child Bhairava), carrying a severed head. In these
cases the artists have literally interpreted both the iconography of
Shiva/Bhairava and Bhairo, who was tamed and became like a child to his
mother after he realized his mistake in fighting the great mother. The
image illustrates a benign goddess virgin, auspiciously dressed as a bride.
decades, Shri Mātā Vaishno Devi has become the preeminent goddess
among the Seven Sisters of the Siwāliks.
7. Bibliography
Badhwar, Inderjit 1986. Transforming the Temple. India Today (a weekly
from New Delhi), October 15: pp. 106-09.
Bhardwaj, Surinder M. 1971. Some Spatial and Social Aspects of the
Mother Goddess Cult in North India; a paper for Third Punjab Studies
Conference, Philadelphia.
―. 1973. Hindu Places of Pilgrimage in India. University of California
Press, Berkeley.
Digance, Justine 2006. Religious and Secular Pilgrimage: Journeys
Redolect with Meaning; in, Timothy, Dallen J. and Olsen, Daniel H.
(eds.) Tourism, Religion and Spiritual Journeys. Routledge, New
York: 38-48.
Drieberg, Trevor, and Sahni, Sat Pal 1978. Jammu and Kashmir, a Tourist
Guide. Vikas Publishing House Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi.
Erndl, Kathleen M. 1993. Victory to the Mother: The Hindu Goddess of
Northwest India in Myth, Ritual and Symbol. Oxford University Press,
New York.
Foster, Georgana 1986. A Pilgrimage to the Shrine of Vaishno Devi. The
Journal of Religious Studies (Punjabi University, Patiala, Guru Govind
Singh Department of Religious Studies), 14 (1): 52-59.
Gandhi, Indira [Prime Minister] 1980. A personal letter to the first author.
India Abroad, April 1999.
―. January 12, 2001: p.16.
India Today (a weekly from New Delhi), October 15, 1986: pp.106-109.
―. March 31, 1989: p. 88.
Jagmohan [Governer] 1989. Interview in India Today (a weekly from
New Delhi), March 3l: p. 93.
Kaul, Jawahar 1950. [Translation of] Shri Bābu Jitu, Undi Amar Kathā.
Anand Ram Shashtri. Dogri Mandal, Jammu Tawi.
Kinsley, David 1986. Hindu Goddesses: Visions of the Divine Feminine
in the Hindu Religious Tradition. University of California Press,
Berkeley.
Mehra, Yogita Dec. 2000. Personal interview by the first author.
Olsen, Daniel H. and Timothy, Dallen J. 2006. Tourism and Religious
Journeys,” in, Timothy, Dallen J. and Olsen, Daniel H. (eds.) Tourism,
Religion and Spiritual Journeys. Routledge, New York: 1-22.
Rohe, Mark 2001. Ambiguous and Definitive, the Greatness of Goddess
124 4. Georgana Foster and Robert Stoddard
----------------------------------------------
Ms. Georgana M. Foster
Contact at: # 47 Firethorn Lane, Northampton, MA 01060. U.S.A.
Email: [email protected]
§ Georgana is an Independent Scholar of South Asian studies, who received her
college degree from the University of Massachusetts, Amherst (1989) in the field
of the contemporary worship and art of Hindu goddesses. In 1980 she visited the
shrine of Vaishno Devi, and also of Jvālāmukhi, Chintāpurni, and Chamundā Devi.
She is a member of the American Association for Southern Asian Art.
Amita Sinha
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign, U.S.A.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. Pāvāgadh Hill in Gujarat, India is the abode of Kālikā Mātā and
also the location of impregnable forts of Rājputs in the medieval era. It is
now, as in the past, a site of pilgrimage and is considered a shakti pitha
(seat of the goddess). Topographic symbolism of pilgrim landscapes offers
an insight into aspects of the mother goddess’ divinity. In climbing the
hill, the pilgrim is made aware of Kālikā Mātā’s simultaneous
transcendence and immanence through the landscape itself. The hill is an
embodiment of her shakti (power) and prakriti (nature). Kālikā Mātā’s
nurturing paradox is evident in the many talaos (water bodies) in the
plateaus, made by damming and diverting the natural flow of water in the
Rājput era. While the goddess is visualized in and through the landscape, it
is mythology that anchors her narratives at specific sites in the Pāvāgadh
Hill. The primeval landscape of bare rock, ephemeral springs, and layered
vegetation, has evolved into a cultural landscape of worship in temples and
shrines, small communities that draw their sustenance from pilgrimage,
and holy organizations that facilitate and manage it.
Keywords: Cultural landscape, topographic symbolism, Shakti Pitha,
mythology, pilgrimage
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1. Introduction
With the slow absorption of pre-historic earth goddess cults into the
cultural geography of Hinduism and Buddhism, the mother archetype
resurged in the guide of Devi, the great goddess and her various
manifestations. Her presence could be anywhere but more often than not
she chose natural archetypes—mountainous caves and hill-water dyad—as
her sites. Her locative aspect is often overlooked in the voluminous
literature on goddess worship in India (Kinsley 1975, 1986; Hawley and
Wulff 1996; McDermott and Kripal 2003; and Hiltebeitel and Erndl 2000).
A close look at the topography of goddess sites, together with her
iconography, yields rich insights into aspects of her divinity. Mythology
anchors and grounds her manifestations in the lay of the land, making her
sites centres in the vast web of Hindu belief system.
Who is Devi? As the primordial great goddess, she is the transcendent
reality that creates cosmos as well sustains and destroys it. The Shakta and
Tāntrika modes of worship elevate her status to be above all male gods
and equivalent to Brahman, the ultimate reality. She is not accorded this
position in the Vedas but with passage of time we see her mounting
significance in the Purānic lore, especially the Devi Māhātmya also
known as Durgā-Saptashati, which is a part of Mārkendeya Purāna, and
was composed in the 5th-6th century CE (Coburn 1996, 1999). Her
elevation in status from that of tribal goddess to the all-pervading supreme
entity is evidence, though far from complete, of incorporation of non-
Aryan deities into the Hindu fold.
In Pāvāgadh, Gujarat, she resides as Kālikā Mātā, the dark terrible
goddess but also a compassionate one. The Pāvāgadh Hill, formed as a
result of volcanic eruptions, is a striking feature in the otherwise flat
landscape of eastern Gujarat. Home to Bhils and other tribes, it was
inhabited in the eighth century by the feudal vassal of the Solanki-
Chālukyan Rājput ruler of Pātan-Ahilwādā (for history of Rājput and
Islamic rule see Commissariat (1938), Patel (1972), Goetz (1949), Mehta
(n. d.), Miles (1819/ 1877), and Watson (1877). By the eleventh century it
was in the hands of Rājputs and became their sanctuary from the invading
Muslims. Like the goddess-worshiping Bhils, Rājputs also worshipped the
great goddess in the form of Kālikā Mātā who was their kuldevi, or the
tutelary goddess of their clan. The Rājput rule survived until 1484 CE until
its defeat at the hands of Islamic rulers of Gujarat. With the destruction of
temples, goddess worship declined and was revived only in the nineteenth
century with the rebuilding of her temple. The twentieth century has seen a
Mother Goddess at Pāvāgadh 127
massive resurgence in her worship with over 2.4 million pilgrims climbing
to the top of the hill every year to get her darshan.
The strong association of the goddess with mountains, forests and
rivers begs the question of how we might better understand her divine
attributes through natural symbolism. The location of 108 Shakti pithas in
the Indian subcontinent is a testimony to role of natural archetypes in the
making of sites sacred to the goddess (Singh 1997, and 2010). A Shakti
pitha derives its significance from the myth of Sati’s body parts having
fallen at the site. Sati, Shiva’s wife was not invited to her father, Daksha’s
house for the sacrificial ceremony he was going to perform and neither
was her husband. Angry and humiliated she immolated herself. Carrying
Sati’s body, the grief stricken Shiva began the tandav dance (dance of
destruction) until Vishnu cut it up the body with parts of it falling on the
earth. Many are well known—Vaishno Devi in Jammu (Saraf 1976),
Kāmakhya in Assam, Vindhyavāsini in Uttar Pradesh, Kālighat in West
Bengal. In the Vaishno Devi Temple the Great Goddess is worshipped as
Mahālakshmi, Mahāsarasvāti, and Mahākāli (in the form of three rocky
protuberances) in 1585 metres (5,200 feet) high cave with a natural spring
in Trikut Mountain. The sacred stream at the base of the mountain is
known as Bālagangā. On a plateau below called Ardh Kumāri (half virgin)
is a tunnel known as garbha yoni (womb) of the goddess where she hid
herself for nine months from Bhairava who are chasing after her. She
finally beheaded Bhairava and threw his head in the valley named after
him. Pilgrims visit the Bhairava temple only after the darshan of Vaishno
Devi.
At Kāmakhya, Sati’s feet are enshrined in a temple called Charan
Padukā in a lower plateau. Kāmakhya—the goddess of desire—is
worshipped as a yoni (Sati’s vulva) stone in a natural cave at the pinnacle
of the Nilāchal (blue) Hill. The natural spring that keeps the stone moist
turns red signifying menstrual blood when the mineral deposits in the hill
are flushed out by the monsoon rains. Womb like caves housing shrines
the ten Mahāvidyas (Tāntrika manifestations of the goddess) are found in
the surrounding hillside (Dobia 2000).They draw pilgrims from near and
far and are associated with the fallen parts of the goddess Sati’s body, but
house aniconic and iconic forms of other goddesses, suggesting a plurality
of mythic traditions, presence of local deities and those of all India
pantheon of goddesses—Kāli, Lakshmi, and Sarasvāti.
128 5. Amita Sinha
2. Topographic Symbolism
The continuing historical sacrality of Pāvāgadh since pre-historic times
in different epochs, and its evolution into the cultural landscape of
pilgrimage suggest that we examine its physical environment for a deeper
knowledge of how divinity is inscribed in the landscape. Topography
played an essential part in construction of sacrality. The hill, worshipped
by local Bhil tribes as the mother goddess, was incorporated in the grand
narrative of Hinduism with the Sati myth. It unusual looking crest
undoubtedly made the identification with Sati’s fallen toe easier. Shrines
have been built since the second century CE on Pāvāgadh, not to Sati, but
to other versions of the Great Goddess—Kāli (destroyer of time) and
Bhadrakāli (auspicious Kāli). In them she incarnates herself to slay
demons—Chanda-Munda, Shumbha-Nishumbha, and buffalo demon
Mahishāsura. The multi-faceted and paradoxical nature of the Devi is
manifest in the character of its primeval landscape and its subsequent
fashioning at human hands. The Devi at Pāvāgadh is worshipped as
Dakshina-Kāli, a dark, fierce, wrathful four-armed goddess. With a
garland of human heads, a girdle of decapitated arms and hands, holding
the head of demon Mahishasur, trishul, scimitar, and conch, with her
tongue lolling out, she stands over the supine body of Shiva. Since Yama
is fearful of taking Kāli’s devotees to his kingdom in the south (dakshina),
she is known as Dakshina Kāli, whose worship will conquer death
(Kinsley 1997). Kāli is to be found on cremation grounds and battle fields,
decapitating demons and sucking the blood out of Raktabija demon who
multiplies with every drop of his blood falling on the ground. Her
bloodthirsty reputation demands sacrifice of heads, animal or human, that
are substituted with the breaking of coconuts, whose shape suggests a
head.
This image contrasts with peacefully benign visage of other
beautifully attired goddesses, who are consorts of male gods. In Jungian
perspective, Kāli is personification of the terrible mother archetype, one to
be revered for her fearsomeness. Yet she is giver of boons to her
worshippers and rushes to their aid in times of trouble. How are we to
reconcile the wrathful and the compassionate? Only by understanding that
her anger and bloodthirstiness is directed against the evildoers and
demonic characters, not her followers who follow the path of dharma.
The pilgrim is made aware of her paradox, and her simultaneous
transcendence and immanence through the landscape. The 830 metre high
Pāvāgadh Hill has steep and formidable slopes in the southern and western
directions but gently cascades and connects a number of plateaus in the
Mother Goddess at Pāvāgadh 129
northeast. Its steep escarpments and crags, its striking silhouette and the
reddish tinge of its rhyolite rock make it seem like a primal force of nature
― a result of tremendous upheaval of the earth. One could describe Kāli in
those very terms, an embodiment of shakti (power) and prakriti (nature),
an overwhelming, overpowering presence that is majestic, fascinating, and
mysterious.
Indeed the hill is perceived by the believer to be metonymic form of
Devi. Its crest, jetting from its uppermost plateau, is Sati’s toe in the
mythic imagination (Fig. 5.1). Extending the analogy further, the rest of
the hill could be Sati’s body, parts of which fell elsewhere. Another
popular reading of the hilly crest is that it is shaped like a conch, carried
by Kāli in one of her four hands. Seen from above, the hilly range appears
like a yantra of intersecting triangles with the Kāli temple at its centre.
Kāli’s yantra consists of downward pointing triangles circumscribed by a
circle that is ringed by lotus petals, all within a square with openings in the
four cardinal directions. In the metallic yantras sold in Pāvāgadh, the
number of triangles is four or five with one upward pointing triangle. The
bindu or the temple is in the centre of the intersecting triangles that
represent the hill.
yatra or journey of the pilgrim with the three apexes representing the three
forms of Devi (Singh 1997, also 2010). Humes (1996) suggests that
Vindhyavāsini—‘she who dwells in the Vindhya mountains’ was
originally a tribal, mountain goddess who over time became the Great
Goddess of Sanskritic tradition. She is worshipped in a village located at
the point where the Vindhya mountain range meets the river Gangā.
The yantra is a powerful an iconic form of Devi worshipped below her
eyes (gavaksha) in the garbha-griha of the Kālikā Temple at Pāvāgadh.
The symbolic meanings can be read at multiple levels. The garbha-griha
(womb-house) is the cave in the mountain that is duplicated in the temple.
As the Devi’s abode or her womb, it contains and emanates her powers
over life and death. Situated in its centre is the yantra, symbol of the
mountain and of the Devi. Thus totality (of landscape and of existence
itself) emanates from the centre, the bindu (point) within the yantra. The
whole (macrocosm) is contained in the part (microcosm), its energies
concentrated at the centre, its miniature replica.
The temple’s location at the top of the hill signifies transcendence of
the Devi. The arduous climbing to reach the pinnacle culminates in
euphoria when arriving at what feels like the top of the world. The sense
of exhilaration is aided by the glimpse of land falling away into deep
valleys. The wind at the top speaks of the Devi’s might and lends its name
to the hill—Pāvāgadh—‘castle of the winds’. The goddess assumes her
wind form by possessing her devotees or moving from one place to
another. This form displays her power but not her full manifestation.
When women devotees become possessed, their hair becomes undone
from braids or burns and flies about in response to the wind that is the
Devi (Erndl 1996). There is a sense of danger too; a false step and one will
be hurtled into oblivion in the depths below. The culmination of
landscape experience is the darshan of Kāli, to see and be seen by her to
receive her blessings, and partake in her grace.
The fearsome (raudra) exterior Dakshin-Kāli is believed to hide a
peaceful, beneficent (saumya) interior for her worshippers. She is known
as Kālikā Mātā, the nurturing mother, giver of life. Her nurturing aspect is
evident in the landscape as well. In the many plateaus of the hill are talaos
and kunds (water pools), made by damming and diverting natural flow of
water. They represent an ingenious system of rainfall harvesting, making
the historic settlements on the hill ‘water-intelligent’. Their utilitarian
aspect has a religious significance drawn from the life sustaining,
munificent aspects of the nurturing mother goddess, evident in the naming
of talaos. Dudhiyā (milk) Talao lies directly below the topmost part of the
hill which appears to have risen from it. The pilgrim is enjoined to bathe is
Mother Goddess at Pāvāgadh 131
its waters and be purified before darshan of the Devi. A small temple
known as ‘Ghāt Mandir’ lies directly on axis to Kālikā Mandir for ritual
tonsure of children. A little lower is Chhassiyā (curd) Talao, with the
oldest temple of Lakulisha (Shiva) on its banks. Below on Machi plateau
are Teliyā (like oil) and Annapurnā (name of goddess meaning ‘full of
food’) Talaos. Water, the sustainer of life, is thus equated with the
maternal, care-giving Devi. Thus the topography of Pāvāgadh combines
within itself both the fearsome and benign aspects of Kālikā Mātā.
3. Pāvāgadh Myths
Although the Devi is visualized in and through the landscape, it is
mythology that anchors her narratives at specific sites. Myths and oral
traditions act as mnemonic tools that bring alive for the pilgrim Kālikā’s
Mātā’s eternal presence in the site and her involvement in its history. One
group of myths reaffirm her presence by linking Pāvāgadh topography to
Shaiva and the Ramayana mythology. Pāvāgadh is seen as the son or part
of Himalaya and its river, Vishvāmitri, a branch of the Gangā. Shiva and
Sati, it is believed, were reunited in a forest on Pāvāgadh hill known as
Shankar Vana. Sage Vishvāmitra brought the river Vishvāmitri (another
form of Gangā) to Pāvāgadh by praying to the goddess Gangā. As Gangā
is present on Shiva’s head so is Vishvāmitri on Lakulisha in the temple on
the banks of Chhassiyā Talao. Vishvāmitra, a Kshatriya, prayed to Kāli too
grant him the status of a Brahmin. Kāli appeared before him and gave him
her yantra, now in the Kāli temple he built at the top of the hill. Pāvāgadh
Hill was created by Himalaya’s son Achal at the request of Vishvāmitra
whose celestial cow Kāmdhenu fell into the valley and was able to swim
to safety by filling it up with her milk. Achal filled the valley with a huge
hill, one quarter of which stood above the plain and came to be known as
Pāvāgadh or quarter hill. Vishvāmitra cursed the demon Pavakāsur for
harassing the people of Pāvāgadh. Thereafter the demon was killed by a
hillock dropped by an eagle. That hillock became the crest of Pāvāgadh
and is known as Pāvākāchal. When Hanuman was flying back from Lanka
carrying the mountain with the herbs that would heal Lakshman injured in
the battle between Rām and Rāvan, Rāvan’s demons attacked him, causing
him to drop one quarter of the mountain that is known as Pāvāgadh (Modi
2004).
Another group of myths concern the vicissitudes in the rise and fall of
Rājputs. They reveal the full dimension of Kālikā’s personality and her
wrathful side. Kālikā was the patron goddess of Rājputs and the stability
and prosperity of their rule derived from her benevolence. She could
132 5. Amita Sinha
withdraw favours as easily as she gave them if the rules of dharma were
transgressed. Folklore attributes (though this view is refuted by many
believers) the last Rājput ruler Patai Rāwal’s defeat to his moral
transgression. On a festival night when the Kālikā was dancing the garba
in the form of a beautiful woman in the temple courtyard, Patai Rāwal fell
in love with her and beseeched her to marry him whereupon she angrily
cursed his kingdom’s ruin. The story of Bhadra, the temple priest’s
daughter, recounts the wrath of the goddess. Patai Rāwal’s brother-in-law
killed the temple priest when the priest refused him his daughter. It is said
that Bhadra looked like Kāli herself when she stabbed the culprit who then
escaped. She then cursed the kingdom for the death of her innocent father
and buried herself alive in a temple near the gateway to the fort. Soon after
Patai Rāwal followed the sound of enchanting music to a cave in a deep
valley. He saw goddesses dancing around a lamp one of whom was
Bhadra. The chief goddess, Kāli/Bhavāni once again foretold the ruin of
the kingdom (Modi, 2004).
The first group of myths imbues the topography with significance,
relating them to places that are central to the grand narratives of Hinduism.
Pāvāgadh’s Devi is thus no longer a local goddess but one drawn by her
association with the hill into the mythic web that covers the subcontinent.
The second group of myths draws upon the Devi’s main purpose, to
vanquish demons who are threatening the moral order. They rationalize
the defeat of the Rājputs at the hands of Muslim rulers, who as alien
aggressors, may well have been imagined as possessing demonic qualities.
Devi’s refused the Rājput ruler Patai Rāwal her protection because he
broke the rules of dharma. For the believer, myths constitute the living
history of Pāvāgadh, and aid in the fuller understanding of Kāli’s divine
nature.
5. Landscape of Pilgrimage
The remnants of Rājput and Islamic forts on the hill are in ruins now as
is fifteenth century Champāner city built at its foot. Although the Sultanate
army destroyed the Kāli Temple, with passage of time the hill has
reclaimed its sacred status as the abode of the Mother Goddess. The
cultural landscape has evolved to reflect its perception as a shakti pitha,
with many shrines and ashrams built in the recent past. The Kālikā temple
was rebuilt in the nineteenth century by the Marathas and more recently
the historic pilgrim path has been restored. Temples, both Jain and Hindu,
dot the present day landscape, and are visited by pilgrims in varying
numbers. Each temple is a node in the mesh of the sacred landscape of the
hill, a point of concentrated holiness. Shrines, mostly found on the pilgrim
path, are smaller replica of temples, their existence adding to the aura of
holiness that envelops the entire hill (Joshi 1999).
While the entire hill is considered sacred, the location of temples of the
top plateau draws attention to the hill and water landscape dyad. Kālikā
Temple is located on the top crest of the Mauliyā Plateau above Dudhiyā
Talao. About 250 feet lower, towards the east is Chhassiyā Talao, on the
banks of which the historic Lakulisha Temple was built. Dudhiyā and
Chhassiyā Talaos act as thresholds to the temples. Seen in profile, the hill
and its temples appear to have risen out of the waters. This is an archetypal
image of a holy site to which many pilgrim complexes conform. Thus the
cultural landscape of Mauliyā Plateau, fashioned out of natural topography
by human devotion and effort, speaks to a widespread language of
sacrality in the Indian subcontinent.
Besides Kālikā Mātā temple at the top, there are numerous Devi
temples—Kāli temple inside the historic Champāner and another at the
base of the hill, Khudiyar (a tribal goddess) Devis’s shrine where the
pilgrim path begins, Ambāji temple at the lower Machi plateau, shrine to
Khappar Jogini, Bhatiji, and to Bahachur Devi on the upper reaches of the
pilgrim path, Bhadrakāli (elder sister of Kālikā Mātā) temple on
Bhadrakāli plateau. In addition there are small shrines to Kāli housed in
the many āshramas functioning in Pāvāgadh. Devi temples at the foothill
serve those who are unable to climb to the top. Bhadrakāli temple is built
at the edge of steep elephant valley in the vicinity of Rājput palace ruins.
Bahachur Devi is housed inside a natural cave, just below the top. While
Kālikā Temple is the primary destination of pilgrims, Devi’s other
manifestations find a home in the landscape for their worship to take
place.
Mother Goddess at Pāvāgadh 135
will make all their work successful. Many were familiar with the myth of
hill being Sati’s toe and Kālikā’s displeasure with the Rājput ruler, Patai
Rāwal. Pilgrims regretted that the present condition of Dudhiyā Talao
makes it difficult to bathe in its waters for physical and moral cleansing.
Informal interviews with thirty people, both residents and visitors to
Pāvāgadh were conducted between 14th and 18th February 2004. The
visitor category consisted of ‘darshanārthi’, those who came to obtain
darshan of Devi and ‘pravāsi’, those who come for sight-seeing, with the
former in majority. Residents include those living at the foothill in
Champāner village and those on Pāvāgadh Hill in a small settlement
known as Dungar. They had mixed feelings about the prospect of future
development—agreeing that it will benefit them economically but also
expressing concern that their illegal ownership of land may cause them to
be evicted. They faced difficulties such as lack of adequate and clean
water, medical dispensary and primary school.
shops on the pilgrim path not only show her as she is seen by the devotee
in her hill top temple (gavashka, yantra) , but also render her as an young,
attractive seductress of Patai Rāwal. The video, ‘Pāvāgadh darshan’, sold
in many pilgrim shops, though refuting this myth, illustrates others—
Sati’s body carried by Shiva, sage Vishvāmitra’s penance, horrific form of
Kāli, Mahākāli standing on Shiva’s supine body, and Kāli surrounded by
the ten Mahāvidyās. A pictorial map of the hill prominently displays
temples to her and Bhadrakāli while the site’s other attractions are shown
much smaller (Fig. 5.3).
7. Conclusion
At Pāvāgadh, the symbol of archaic mother goddess ― cave in the
mountain ― has retained its hold on the human imagination for a thousand
years and more, illustrating the power of the natural archetype in the
sacred landscape of Indian subcontinent. Its primeval landscape of bare
rock, ephemeral springs, and layered vegetation, has evolved into a
cultural landscape of worship in temples and shrines, small communities
that draw their sustenance from pilgrimage, and holy organizations that
facilitate and manage it. The hill had been a sanctuary to the Rājputs, who
were protected by the hill’s inaccessibility and the presence of Devi. Their
elaborate water management system indicates a sophisticated under-
standing of ecology pressed into the utilitarian and ritualistic needs of
Devi’s worshippers. Kālikā and Bhadrakāli’s temples guarded over an
extensive network of fortifications that seem ingenious and formidable
even in their ruins today. Pāvāgadh has seen the rise and fall of Rājput and
later Islamic rule. Although it lost its position as the moral anchor of a
kingdom and capital of Gujarat a long time ago, Pāvāgadh shows no sign
of losing its position as an archetypal symbol of faith.
8. References
Coburn, Thomas 1996. Devi: The Great Goddess; in, Hawley, John and
Wulff, Donna (eds.) Devi: Goddesses of India. University of California
Press, Berkeley: 31-48.
Mother Goddess at Pāvāgadh 141
―. 1999. The Threefold Vision of the Devi Māhātmya; in, Dehejia, Vidya
et. al. (eds.) Devi, The Great Goddess: Female Divinity in South Asian
Art. Arthur Sackler Gallery, Smithsonian Institution, Washington,
D.C.: 37-58.
Commissariat, M. S. 1938. History of Gujarat. Longman, Green & Co.,
Bombay, vol. 1.
Erndl, Kathleen 1996. Serānvāli: The Mother who Possesses; in, Hawley,
John and Wulff, Donna (eds.), Devi: Goddess of India. University of
California Press, Berkeley: 173-194.
Dobia, Brenda 2000. Seeking Mā, Seeking Me; in, Hiltebeitel, Alf and
Erndl, Kathleen (eds.) Is the Goddess a Feminist: The Politics of South
Asian Goddesses. New York University Press, New York: 203-238.
Goetz, Herman 1949. Pāvāgadh-Champāner. Journal of the Gujarat
Research Society, 11 (no. 2, April): 1-67.
Hawley, John and Wulff, Donna (eds.) 1996. Devi: Goddesses of India.
University of California Press, Berkeley.
Hiltebeitel, Alf and Erndl, Kathleen (eds.) 2000. Is the Goddess a
Feminist: The Politics of South Asian Goddesses. New York
University Press, New York.
Humes, Cynthia Ann 1996. Vindhyavāsini - Local Goddess yet Great
Goddess; in, Hawley, John and Wulff, Donna (eds.) Devi: Goddesses
of India. University of California Press, Berkeley: 49-76.
Kinsley, David 1975. The Sword and the Flute—Kāli and Krsna: Dark
Visions of the Terrible and the Sublime in Hindu Mythology.
University of California Press, Berkeley.
―. 1986. Hindu Goddesses: Visions of the Divine Feminine in the Hindu
Religious Tradition. University of California Press, Berkeley.
McDermott, Rachel F. and Kripal, Jeffrey (eds.) 2003. Encountering Kāli
in the Margins, at the Center, in the West. University of California
Press, Berkeley.
Mehta, R.N. (n.d.). Champāner: A Medieval Capital. Heritage Trust,
Baroda.
Miles, William 1819/ 1877. Account of the Hill-Fort of Champāner in
Guzerat. Transactions of The Literary Society of Bombay, vol. 1,
(reprinted by the Bombay Education Society’s Press, 1877): 150-156.
Modi, Sonal M. 2004. Myths and Legends of Champāner-Pāvāgadh.
Heritage Trust, Baroda.
Modi, Sumesh. 2004. Impressions of Forgotten City: Architectural
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142 5. Amita Sinha
§ Amita Sinha has been teaching at UI-U.C. since 1989. She has prepared
landscape conservation plans for many heritage sites in India, including Sarnath,
Taj Mahal, Champāner-Pāvāgadh, Gomati Riverfront in Lucknow and the Delhi
Ridge. She was a Senior Fulbright Researcher affiliated with Indian National Trust
for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), New Delhi in Spring 2009. Her major
area of research is cultural landscapes and heritage conservation in South Asia. She
is the author of Landscapes in India (University Press of Colorado, 2006).
6
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Abstract. In the Kāthmāndu Valley of Nepal, shrines to each of the Ashta
Mātrikās are located on the city of Bhaktapur’s periphery and are focal
points of worship during many rites of passage and Mohani, the autumnal
harvest festival. Together, the Mātrikās form a symbolic mandala of an
ordered cosmos marking the bounds of the city and influencing the ritual
and spatial organization of the city. Life’s paradoxes such as purity and
impurity, chaos and order, life and death, sickness and health,
menstruation and pregnancy are the domain of the Mātrikās, emphasizing
their Tāntrika natures. Despite the integration of Hindu and Buddhist
practices, Tāntrika ideologies and practices lie at the root of worship and
propitiation. Therefore, the relationship of these contradictions as they
pertain to the tutelary role of the Mātrikās and the geographic location of
their shrines and dwelling places are looked into. In considering the
Mātrikās’ relationship to the land and cosmos mythology, ritual,
etymology, and sacred geography are examined.
Keywords. Mātrikās, Durgā, Bhaktapur, Nepal, mandala, Mohani, dhokā,
Shākta, Tantra, Tāntrika, Kaula
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1. Introduction
In the Kāthmāndu Valley of Nepal, open shrines or pithas to eight
goddesses known as the Ashta Mātrikās are located on the periphery of the
city of Bhaktapur. Other shrines to these goddesses situated within the
boundaries of the city are known as “god-houses.” Each individual
“house” holds a portable image of one of the Mātrikās and other
accoutrements needed for her daily pujās by Tāntrika priests (Levy 1990:
231). Together these external and internal shrines serve as focal points of
worship during rite of passage celebrations and during the autumnal
144 6. Laura Amazzone
harvest festival, Mohani, and form a symbolic mandala that influences the
ritual and spatial organization of the city. In this essay I will explore how
the geographical location of the shrines and other dwelling places of the
Mātrikās reveal much about the multivalent functions of these goddesses.
Specifically, I will show that the locations of the shrines on the city’s
periphery indicate that the Mātrikās serve as divinities demarcating the
boundaries between order and chaos, internal and external realms, seen
and unseen forces. An analysis of polarities found within Kaula, Hindu
Tāntrika, and Shākta ideologies such as purity/impurity, chaos/order,
sex/death, sickness/health, menstruation/pregnancy further elucidates the
many levels of meaning of the borderland status of the Mātrikās. My
central hypothesis is that such contradictory tensions, particularly as they
relate to sex, menstruation, pregnancy and death reveal vestiges of an
older, matrifocal, autochthonous tradition that has influenced the spatial
layout of the city’s physical and cosmic boundaries. This study involves a
hermeneutical analysis of iconography, myth, local legends, history,
anthropology and etymology from a feminist and heuristic perspective.
2. The Mātrikās
The Mātrikās are a collective of seven or eight goddesses, whose
paradoxical natures express the interrelationship between the cyclical
nature of women’s bodies and perennial earth based rituals (Chamberlain,
(now Amazzone) 2000: 24).1 They are Mother Goddesses, yet not restricted
to the procreative implication of motherhood. The Mātrikās are aspects of
the Great Goddess in her full power and work together in collective form. 2
Their anthropomorphic representations found on temple struts,
tymphaneums, and in shrines throughout the city depict them as creatures
of paradox: either sensual or grotesque, birth-givers or destroyers. In the
Devi Māhātmya myth, they appear as aspects of the Great Goddess
Durgā’s Shakti power, which She calls forth to aid her in the battle against
the asuras, demons. They spring from Durgā’s forehead riding animal
mounts (goose, bull, tiger, etc.) in their most terrifying forms and
successfully restore equilibrium to the threatened cosmos.
Today, shrines to these eight goddesses are located on the periphery of
Bhaktapur and guard the four cardinal directions and intermediary points.
They are known as Brāhmani (east), Māheshvari (southeast), Kumāri
(south), Vaishnavi (southwest), Vārāhi (west), Indrāni (northwest),
Chāmundā (north), Mahālakshmi (northeast), and the ninth one at the
centre, viz. Tripurasundari [cf. Gutschow 1982: 95-96, Fig. 6.1]. The
placement of their shrines informs the processional route of the Mohani
The Asta Mātrikās of Bhaktapur, Nepal 145
Fig. 6.1. Ashta Mātrikās in Bhaktapur (after Gutschow, Niels 1982: 96).
The spatial positions of the pithas of the nine Mandalic Goddesses are the
actual spatial locations of the idealised points of the symbolic yantra and
mandala. The numbers designate the deities in the sequence in which they
are worshiped when treated as a united collection of deities: (1) Brāhmani,
(2) Māheshvari, (3) Kumāri, (4) Vaishnavi, (5) Vārāhi, (6) Indrāni, (7)
Chāmundā, (8) Mahālaksmi, and at centre (9) Tripurasundari. The dense
band of dots in this map indicating the extent of the city represents the
edge of the presently built-up area of the city, the “physical city”, and does
not necessarily correspond to the city's symbolic boundaries.
existence in the Kaula tradition and its concept of the inherent power of
the “clan fluid or nectar” within human women and divine female beings
(White 2003: 11). It is clear that this conceptualization of the divine as
female is very ancient, as White notes, “Shākta is a relatively late technical
term applied to these cults, scriptures, or persons associated with the
worship of the Goddess as Shakti: prior to the eleventh century, the
operative term for the same was simply ‘Kula’ or ‘Kaula’: the term clan
being applied implicitly and exclusively to female lineages” (White 2003:
6).
Further consideration of the term kula is important to this study of the
Mātrikās and their relationship to the sacred landscape within and around
Bhaktapur. The primary sense of this term is “family, line, lineage (noble)
race or clan,” while its non-technical meaning refers to “birds, quadrupeds,
and insects: a herd of buffalo, a troop of monkeys, a flock of birds, and a
swarm of bees” (White 2003: 18). Likewise, iconographical representa-
tions and mythical narrations of the Mātrikās almost always depict them in
a group4 with their distinguishing animal and bird mounts and faces. In
this way, the grouping of the Mātrikās and their animal or bird vehicles
corresponds to other groups of deities within the Kaula or Kula tradition.
Kula deities, such as the Yakshis, Grahanis, and in the medieval period,
the Yoginis tend to be a hybridization of birds, plants, and animals with
some human characteristics (ibid.: 8). In the Kaula tradition the elemental
nature of these goddesses was indeed rooted in the natural world.
Kaula practices include conducting rituals in charnel grounds, using
alcohol and blood to feed and propitiate deities, inducing spirit possession
in ceremony, and employing transgressive sexual behaviour as a means of
achieving union with the divine. Padoux sees ritual elements such as
transgression and “erotic rites and sexo-yogic practices as antedating
Tantra,” yet they still persist because they are a “universal category of
human behaviour” (2002: 21). Although these practices have continued
through the ages, they are now only permissible within Tāntrika circles
and, as we will see, during Mohani. As Padoux notes, ritualized sexual
practices allow for the body to be seen as “a structured receptacle of power
and animated by that power and the somato-cosmic vision upon which
these practices are based” (ibid). Originally, these practices equated the
female body as a channel for female deities and practitioners respected the
inherent power within female sexual fluids and venerated the female body.
Such practices utilized women’s bodies to achieve certain powers (siddhis)
and as a means to gain liberation (moksha). Significant to this discussion is
the fact that such activity has become peripheral to traditional religious
practices because its involves elements now considered to be threatening
148 6. Laura Amazzone
and polluting to the civil order, namely, functions related to the female
body and intricately tied to the reality of human existence, i.e., menstruation,
pregnancy, and sexuality. In this conception, the “untameable” female
body is equated with the “untameable” ‘earth-as-mother’, itself.
In Bhaktapur today such practices take place through rituals centring
on the Mātrikās such as Mohani, rite of passage rituals, and secret Tāntrika
rites. All of them involve an attempt to master all levels of power—
sexual, supernatural, spiritual, and practical— allowing the individual to
participate directly in liminal realms of existence. Some of these normally
secret rites (spirit possession, the use of alcohol and blood sacrifice) have
become essential rites to the Mātrikās in the public Mohani harvest
festival, thereby providing a ‘safe’ opportunity in which all of Bhaktapur’s
citizens may annually participate in otherwise threatening and feared
realms of existence. These feared realms are often associated with places
of power in the natural landscape, which pre-date not only the boundaries
of the city, but those practices which would be considered Tantra, Shākta,
or Kaula.
Only on this day is Taleju taken out in the street for the yearly
darshan, when Goddess is taken out to view and be viewed by Her
devotees. Alcohol consumption, which is not normally tolerated within the
orthodox tradition, and bawdy public comments are also tolerated as part
of the celebration of Her victory.
Through these various rites, the Mohani festival gives all inhabitants a
chance to participate in ways that would be polluting or threatening
outside of this ritual context. As Levy points out, the Mātrikās “represent
other realms and ideas that must be dealt with in other ways (1990: 284).”
In this regard they are the elemental forces that only operate through
spiritual, sexual power, not the usual “moral interactions and
manipulations” that make up the ordered state of city life (ibid.: 284).
still expressed (albeit unconsciously) in the tikas of rice, curd, and red
powder used on the tenth day to celebrate Her victory.
As we have seen from the female body-centred etymological
references to sacred sites within and around Bhaktapur (dhokās, pithas,
maithān), I contend there are strong associations with the ritualistic blood
mysteries that take place in these locales and the interrelationship between
women’s bodies, the cosmos, and the earth. During Mohani one of the
central representations of worship is the kalasha, symbolic of the womb of
Goddess. In fact, one of Her numerous epithets is Bhagavati.18 Bhaga
means womb and power. In addition, the dates of the Mohani festival are
calculated by the lunar calendar, just as women’s menstrual cycles respond
to the lunar cycle. In his article, “Women, Earth, and the Goddess: A
Shākta-Hindu Interpretation of Embodied Religion” Patel notes,
For a Shākta-Hindu menstruation is a holistic concept. It is a religion
(dharma). The term ritu, which signifies menstruation, also signifies the
cyclical changes of the seasons as well as the orderliness with the cosmos.
Thus, it is believed that the menstrual cycle in the female body
corresponds to and represents the cyclical change of season and the
orderliness in the universe” (Patel 1994: 72-73).
While today menstrual blood is deemed polluting within orthodox
tradition, I would argue that this is a degenerate and inverted response to
its ultimate potency. Beginning in the 11th century there was a
revitalization of the Kaula tradition in Bhaktapur that flourished along
with other Tāntrika practices under Malla rule. In the Kaula tradition, as
we have seen, Goddess is the primordial source of the clan and two of Her
epithets take on particular significance for this discussion: “She is
kulagochara, ‘she who is the channel of access to the clan’ and kulagama,
‘she whose issue of blood gives rise to the clan’” (White 2003: 19). Could
the nine-month cyclical dance of the Nine Durgās be rooted in an ancient
mimesis of a woman’s pregnancy? Is it mere coincidence that the many
districts that make up the spatial locality of Bhaktapur are referred to as
twa, meaning clan and branches of a tree, a genealogical and essentially
feminine symbol? Does this terminology refer to an ancient ideology—
centred on matrifocality and the Earth Mother—that has influenced the
layout of the city? As White points out, “the goddess through the channel
of her vulva and its mission is the mother of the entire flow chart of the
clan indeed of the entire embodied cosmos” (ibid., my italics).
158 6. Laura Amazzone
9. Concluding Remarks
Considering the ritual and spatial significance of ancient sites to
goddesses who govern the realms of sex, birth, and death, illness and
health, order and chaos within and around Bhaktapur, it seems the city’s
geographical organization is rooted in primordial ideologies that conceive
of women and earth as sacred. My contention is practices that are now
peripheralised actually stem from early traditions where the connection
between female sexuality and the cyclical fertility of Mother Earth was
consciously integrated into ritual practices. As is evident in traces from
some of the written records of ritual and belief, the Kaula, and then Shākta
and Tantra traditions, as well as contemporary ritual practices, the
sacredness and inherent sexual power of women’s bodies used to be
revered and understood as a mimesis of natural order, however, it has been
replaced by (but ultimately not lost and forgotten) patriarchal moral order.
For deeply embedded in the mandalic reality of Bhaktapur lays the
matrifocal power of women and Goddess.
10. References
Auer, Gerhard and Gutschow, Niels 1974. Bhaktapur: Gestalt,
Funktionen und Religiıse Symbolik Einer Nepalische Stadt Im
Vorindustriellen Entwicklungsstadium. Technische Hochscule,
Darmstadt.
Amatya, Saphalya 1991. Art and Culture of Nepal: An Attempt towards
Preservation. Niral Publications, Jaipur.
Chamberlain, Laura Kristine (now Amazzone) 2002. Durgā and the
Dashain Harvest Festival: From the Indus to Kāthmāndu Valleys.
ReVision: A Journal of Consciousness and Transformation, vol. 25,
(1): pp. 24-32.
Dehejia, Vidya 1986. Yogini Cult and Temples: A Tāntric Tradition.
National Museum, New Delhi.
Durdis-Robertson. Lawrence. 1974, The Cult of the Goddess, Cesara
Publications, Enniscothy, Eire.
Dutt, Binode Bihari [1925] 1977. Town Planning in Ancient India. New
Asian Publishers, New Delhi.
Gadon, Elinor W. 2002. Probing the Mysteries of the Hirapur Yoginis.
ReVision: A Journal of Consciousness and Transformation, 25 (1):
33-41.
The Asta Mātrikās of Bhaktapur, Nepal 159
Urban, Hugh B. 2003. Tantra: Sex, Secrecy, Politics, and power in the
Study of Religion. University of California Press, Berkeley.
White, David Gordon 2003. Kiss of the Yogini: “Tāntric Sex” in its South
Asian Contexts. University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
―. (ed.) 2000. Tantra in Practice, Princeton University Press, Princeton,
New Jersey.
11. Endnotes
1
For more on the Mātrikās and their relationship to the earth and women’s bodies,
see my article, “Durgā and the Dashain Harvest Festival” in ReVision, 2002
where I published under the name, Laura Chamberlain.
2
While some of the other Ashta Mātrikās such as Chāmundā and Vārāhi do have
their own cult following outside of Mohani, it is only the central goddess who
contains the full power of each of them during the festival.
3
Nevertheless, it is very difficult to categorize beliefs and ritual practices as
belonging exclusively to one tradition or the other as deities such as the
Mātrikās are worshiped by Buddhist Newārs and Nepalese alike.
4
Exceptions include, but are not limited to, the temple to Vārāhi in Chaurāsi,
Orissa and other shrines and temples to Chāmundā and Vārāhi.
5
See Gadon, pp. 33-41.
6
On pilgrimage to the Kāthmāndu Valley in September 2000, my guide, Ranju
Sharma called these stones, “Devi Stones.”
7
Auer and Gutschow, p. 29.
8
For further discussion on the relationship between the Mātrikās, Yoginis and
cremation grounds see: White 2003, Gadon, 2002, Dehejia, 1986.
9
One must ask why such vital aspects of human experience have been demonized
as polluted and forbidden? Is it because many of these “pollutants” are related
to inherent natural female power? Have they always been so feared and
believed to upset the moral established patrilineal order? Attempting to answer
such questions is beyond the scope of this essay, but I feel it is important to
mention them as concepts such as purity and impurity, order and chaos, to my
mind, speak to an attempt to control the natural powers of women and relegate
anything elemental and natural, thus uncontrollable by man to the periphery.
10
See Jordan, Jayakar, and Slusser.
11
Tripurasundari is a Tāntrika goddess who is part of the Nine Durgās, another
collective form of female deities that will be discussed later in this essay. In
Her manifestation with the Nine Durgās She holds the center and is conceived
as the full embodiment of Goddess Durgā or Bhagavati. Taleju is the political
The Asta Mātrikās of Bhaktapur, Nepal 161
Goddess of the royal family and city of Bhaktapur and is also worshiped as
Great Goddess in all Her power.
12
See Slusser: pp. 100-104 for more on the absorption and development of earlier
settlements of this area into what we call Bhaktapur today.
13
In Bhaktapur the Ashta Mātrikās and Nava Durgā are worshiped interchangeably.
Sometimes only the eight are worshiped, others, particularly during Mohani all
nine. Despite the conflation of these groups, the Nine Durgās have their own
legend that speaks to their threat to the moral organization of the city as well
as emphasizes the spatial boundaries between chaos and order that they
represent. See Levy, pp. 503-505.
14
The shrine’s relation to the directions is only in a symbolic sense.
15
To my understanding, both Taleju and Tripurasundari are worshiped during the
festival as the Goddess in full power. Although, Taleju had been “known for at
least a century before the founding of Tripura” (Slusser 1982, 204).
16
Although I have not found any references of contemporary sexual practices
taking place at these shrines, given the intrinsic secrecy of Tāntrika practices I
believe it is possible that sexual rites do take place today, or in the very least,
have in the past. Could the animal blood be a replacement for earlier and even
secret uses of menstrual blood and sexual fluids? I return to this point at the
end of the essay.
17
See White, 2003.
18
Two meanings of Bhaga include vagina and power (personal discussion with
James Ryan, Co-Director of Asian Comparative Studies at the California
Institute of Integral Studies).
----------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. Kāmākhyā, located in the surroundings of Guwahati, in Assam,
the ancient region of Prāgjyotisapura or Kāmarupa, is the most important
centre of pilgrimage among the shākta pitha. The mythological cycle of
which the origin of Kāmākhyā, the place where the yoni of the goddess is
worshipped, is that of the famous episode of the dismemberment of Sati
told in the Kālikā Purāna. Situated in an area with a conspicuous presence
of ethnic tribal groups, the temple of Kāmākhyā even today shows the
presence of different forms of cult by which the goddess is addressed. The
Kālikā Purāna contains some important data with regard to the existence of
archaic cultural practices at Kāmākhyā, which are linked to the myth of
Narakāsura. Moreover, through an attentive study of the Kālikā Purāna, the
Kāmākhyā Tantra and the Yogini Tantra emerges clearly that, from an
historical point of view, the shākta pitha is closely related to the vāmāchāra
practice pertaining to Tantrism. In addition to this, the goddess is venerated
at Kāmākhyā is also linked to the Dasamahāvidyā, the ten goddesses who
represent the complete expression of the manifestation of the universe.
Keywords. Kālikā Purāna, Kāmākhyā, Yoginī, Tantra, Mahāvidyā,
Kirāta, Shakti pitha, supernatural powers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Historical Background
Kāmākhyā, near Guwāhati in the ancient region of Prāgjyotisapura or
Kāmarupa, nowadays known as Assam, is the most important place of
pilgrimage among the shākta pitha. The temple, dedicated to Kāmākhyā
Devi, rises on the top of a hill and is known in the Purāna as Nilāchala,
the ‘Blue Mountain’, or Kāmagiri, the mountain of love (cf. Fig. 7.1). The
temple, where the Sati’s yoni is worshipped, was built in its present shape
in 1565 C.E. by Naranārāyana, one of the illustrious kings of the local
Koch dynasty. The history of this place goes back to the medieval period
and said to be connected with the Shan dynasty (cf. Kakati 1989) which
164 7. Claudia Ramasso
ruled over the territory of Brahmaputra Valley during the medieval period.
No trace of the original temple is found today which was almost
completely destructed in the process of Muslim invasions in the early 16th
century. (In)famous Mughal lieutenant Kala Pahar is said to have
destroyed the temple in ca. 1553 C.E. (Sarma 1960: 15-16). It may be
pointed out here that Kāmākhya does not appear among the Hindu tirthas
in Ain-e-Akbari (cf. Singh, Ravi 2009: 130). The present structure was
(re)built by the Koch king (of Cooch Bihar) Naranārāyana in ca. 1665 C.E.
(cf. Kakati 1989: 37).
The mythological cycle of which the origin of the shākta pitha, and
hence of Kāmākhyā, is part is that of the famous sacrifice of Daksha
which appears in different Purānas. In the context of the myth described
in the Kālikā Purāna (KP, 16-18), Sati represents an embodiment of
Yoganidrā (the sleep of reintegration, that is the non-manifested aspect of
Divine power). Together with her husband Shiva, she has been excluded
166 7. Claudia Ramasso
from attending the rite Daksha is about to perform, and thus she immolates
herself by the means of her supernatural powers and abandons her physical
body. Shiva, driven mad by the pain caused by the dead of his beloved
Sati, creates a terrible creature, Virabhadra, who destroys the sacrifice. He
then begins to dance in a frenzy while holding the dead body of Sati on his
shoulders thus causing a panic in the entire universe.
The structure of the myth contains a series of themes, which are of
considerable importance. The focal points of the mythological episode all
revert around the central concept of the sacrifice. Thus it is on the
occasion of a universal sacrifice at which are present the gods, numerous
savants and many other creatures, that Shiva, due to his alleged impurity,
is kept aside by Daksha, even after having married his daughter Sati. Later
on, that very sacrifice, after having been destroyed by Shiva, assumes the
shape of a deer that escapes towards the heavens entering the realm
(sthāna) of Brahmā. But even there it is followed by the wrath of Shiva
and hence re-descends to earth seeking refuge in the corpse of Sati. Seeing
the body of Sati devoid of live, Shiva forgets everything and is taken by
despair. The gods, fearful of the effects his ire may cause in the entire
universe, go and seek advice from Shani (Saturn) trying to convince him
to contain the wrath of the powerful god. Conscious of the fact that the
terrible fury of Shiva depends on the god’s contact with the body of Sati,
Brahmā, Vishnu and Shanaishvara decide to enter the corpse in order to
divide it into several pieces, which thereafter will fall down to earth (KP,
18. 38-39). Through the dismemberment of Sati’s body not only the power
of the goddess is thus spread out into the universe, but along with it the
sacrifice hidden in it. Through the power (shakti) and the sacrifice (yājna)
the gods establish an intimate relationship with the earth. The pitha, that is
the places where the parts of Sati have touched the earth after falling from
heaven, represent the seats of the goddess, the places where the goddess
resides, the receptacle of all the different potentialities inherent in the
primordial Shakti (Ādi Shakti). In these places, the sacrifice bears a
relation primarily with the obtaining of supernatural powers (siddhi). We
shall here mention briefly that the underlying theme of the
dismemberment or of the fall of a divine being from heaven also recurs in
other mythological contexts. For instance, in the Rig Veda (10.90), the
process of differentiation is described as the dismemberment of the
primordial Purusha and, in the Brihatsamhitā (53.2-3), the vāstu-
purushamandala (the diagram of the temple, i.e. the sacred place that
symbolizes the universe) is represented by the primordial being laid down
on earth by gods.
Some notes on the Kamakhya Pitha 167
sounds of the Sanskrit alphabet, which begins with the letter ‘a’ and ends
with the letter ‘ksha’. In other words, the manifestation of the universe
identifies itself with the garland of letters (varnamālā) of which all words
consist, and these words stand for the infinite possibilities of the divine
being. The shākta pithas correspond to the 51 letters: Kāmākhyā in this
context represent the first letter, that is “a” (cf. Singh 1997, 2009a: 40,
also 2009b, and 2010). In Tantrism, Kāli, the Ādi Shakti, is depicted
wearing a mālā of 51 skulls (kapāla) around her neck while dancing on the
corpse (shava) of Shiva. In this representation, she is identical with Ādi
Shakti, the non-manifested power who, by means of her movements,
originates the 51 mātrikā.
The place on which arises the temple complex of Kāmākhyā lies in the
ancient land of Prāgjyotisapura or Kāmarupa. While the first of these
names bears a relation with the tradition of the jyotisha, the second is
related, from a mythological point of view, with the episode of Kāma’s
incensing and, from an etymological point of view, with the sensual desire
(kāma). The suffix ākhyā means ‘name’ or ‘appearance’, and ‘aspect’.
According to the Kālikā Purāna, the goddess Kāmākhyā is named so
because she offers love, she is the female lover, she is the very
embodiment of love, and also because she destroys Kāma and thereafter
restores him to his original form (KP, 62.2). Kāmarupa is the form of
Kāma (the place where the god was given back his original shape) but also
the place where Kāmeshvari (Shakti) and Kāmeshvara (Shiva) reside in
perennial union in shape of a lingam (the sacred mountain Nilāchala) and
a yoni. The meaning of the two terms Kāmarupa and Kāmākhyā has been
the subject of many discussions among scholars (Goswami 1998: 9-33). In
our opinion, the word Kāmākhyā bears a noteworthy sonorous
resemblance with two words pertaining to the vocabulary (shabdakosha)
of the Khasi language, that is ka meikha, meaning ‘maternal grandmother’
or ‘the ancient mother ancestor’ (Nissor 1906: 10, 131). The Khāsi tribe
lives on the mountainous slopes of the Meghalaya state and are nowadays
mainly Christians. The ancient kingdoms of Khāsis were confined to the
plain mostly in the Kāmarupa and Nagaon Districts, Assam and eastwards.
Their language is a member of the Mon-Khmer language family spoken in
South-East Asia (Mathur 2000: 229-252).
With regard to tribal cults in Kāmākhyā, of particular interest appears
the myth of Narakāsura, which is narrated in the Kālikā Purāna (KP, 36-
40). During the satya yuga, Vishnu, in his manifestation (avatāra) of
Vārāha, lies in union with the goddess Prithvi during the period of the
latter’s menstruation. The goddess gets pregnant but, at the time for
delivery, she cannot give birth to her child because the gods, worried
Some notes on the Kamakhya Pitha 169
about its potentially demoniac nature borne out of this impure relationship,
through their divine powers, prevent her from doing so. Prithvi, shaken by
a strong feeling of sufferance, turns to Vishnu for help who, touching her
navel, promises her that she will be able to give birth to the child in the
course of the tretra yuga.
The birth of Naraka represents by all means a single instance of birth.
Following an agreement between the goddess and king Janaka, the ruler of
the kingdom of Videha, by the time decreed for the delivery of her child,
the latter is deposed by the goddess in the sacrificial field of the king. The
new born child creeps out of the sacred area and, when Janaka appears on
the scene to pick it up, he discovers a human skull under the child’s head,
which hence became known as Naraka. Grown up at the king’s court by
Janaka and the goddess, who on the occasion had taken the form of the
nurse Kātyāyani, the boy soon shows his innate divine qualities, excelling
his brothers in all the arts and skills. After sixteen years, Naraka is brought
to Kātyāyani so that they can meet his father Vishnu on the shores of the
river Gangā. The divine parent, though recognising the demoniac nature of
the child, installs the boy on the throne of the reign of Kāmarupa in its
capital Prāgjyotisapura. There, Vishnu orders him to venerate the goddess
Kāmākhyā alone, who is identical with the outer form taken on by
Yoganidrā in that place. The king’s realm is inhabited by a group of wild
and ferocious people, known as Kirāta. They are described as appearing in
the shape of golden columns (rukmasthamba), being excluded from
knowledge (jnānavarjita), shaved without any reason (anarthamundita)
and indulging in the consumption of wine and meat (KP, 38. 102-103). On
the order of Vishnu, Naraka fights their king Ghataka and defeats his
enemies, but offers protection to those who submit themselves to the
ruler’s mercy.
It is interesting to note that Vishnu suggests Naraka to venerate
Kāmākhyā, a goddess whose place of worship, according to the myth, is
already established in the territory of Kāmarupa. However, the territory is
controlled by the Kirātas who, although defeated, have not yet been
completely uprooted by the new ruler. The term Kirāta already appears in
the Vedic tradition and refers to the indigenous populations of the
mountainous areas of North-Eastern India. According to the Mānava
Dharmashāstra (10.43-44), the Kirātas were originally kshatriya relegated
to the status of shudra for having failed in the duties of their caste. It is
thus possible to detect in the myth of the Kālikā Purāna a superposition of
different cults in honour of the same goddess, an earlier one that
developed around the Kirāta, and a later one adopted by the son of Vishnu
and Prithvi. On the other hand, the Yogini Tantra makes reference to the
170 7. Claudia Ramasso
killing of Naraka by the Krishna avatāra of the god Vishnu. In the Tantric
environment, Vashishtha is considered a follower of chināchāra, a devotee
of Tārā, and some Tantras stress his relationship with the Kāmākhyā-
pitha. As we learn from Bharati, Vashishtha, after practising the sādhanā
for six thousand years, was still not able to gain the vision of the goddess
Pārvati (Bharati 1993: 66). According to the Brahmāyāmala Tantra,
Vashishtha is sent by his father Brahmā to venerate the goddess
Kāmākhyā on the Nilāchala, the ‘Blue Mountain’, where Vishnu appears
to him in the guise of Buddha, intoxicated by the consumption of wine.
Vashishtha disapproves of his conduct that goes against the teachings of
the Veda, but is questioned by Vishnu who explains to him that the
panchamakāra is a practice of the chināchāra and should therefore not be
revealed to the uninitiated (Bharati 1993: 69-70).
As per the folk belief this temple was originally constructed by
Kāmadeva, with the help of Vishvakarmā, and called as Ānandākshya (the
‘imperishable bliss’). Some others consider it to be built under the reign of
Naraka (cf. Sharma 1999: 31-32). There is a folktale, in this connection,
popularly attributed by the local priests, and also attested by Kakati (1989:
43-44), narrates the story that:
Earlier Naraka was pious and religious, but he changed under the
influence of infamous asura Bāna’s company. Once Naraka got fascinated
by the charming beauty of Kāmākhyā and proposed her to be his wife, the
goddess agreed to accept the proposal on a condition that he should
construct a temple, a tank and a masonry road from the foot of the hill to the
hill-top in the course of a night, else he will have to lose his life (we may
note here that this condition varies in different versions, e.g. in some stories
he is said to have been asked to construct a rest-room and four masonry
roads/stone-made stairway).
Naraka took up the challenge enthusiastically and had almost
completed the constructions asked for when a cock crew, before the dawn
under some secret influence of the goddess. Poor Naraka was thus
prevented from accomplishing the assigned task(s) and later killed in a fight
with Vishnu in which the goddess Kāmākhyā assisted Vishnu.
yak, the spotted antelope, the hare and the lion; even fish and animal-
blood, such as that of horses and elephants, are well accepted by the
goddess. These offers are known as bali, whereas the sharabha sacrifice, a
mythical animal having eight legs, and of human beings are referred to
respectively as mahābali and atibali (KP, 55.3-6).
3. Concluding Remarks
At the shākta pitha of Kāmākhyā myth and rite are intricately
interwoven to represent a variegated religious dimension. A place of
ancient sacrificial traditions, Kāmākhyā even today shows its manifold
faces to those interested to come and visit it. From the data which have
emerged, it is possible to make a preliminary consideration about the
historical and religious dimension of this place. The analysis of the related
myth clearly shows the archaic presence of local cults related to the power
of the goddess at Kāmākhyā. Ancient populations, like the Kirāta and the
Shābara, referred to according to modern definitions as ethnic tribal
groups, emerge in the course of the mythological narrative and in the cult
offered to Kāmākhyā. This does not represent an isolated phenomenon,
since also other sacred places of Hinduism are often intimately related to
the tradition of local tribal populations, such as in the case of the famous
temple dedicated to Jagannātha at Puri, in Orissa. If we take into account
that in the shākta environment the members of the kaula, the family of
Kāli, are considered as being beyond the limitations of caste during the
execution of their rituals, and if we bear in mind that in many Sanskrit
texts the origin of ancient tribal populations is traced back to the loss of
their caste that occurred in some remote times of the past, one could
possibly argue for the co-existence of different elements within the context
of Tantrism that is of very ancient origin. In this sense, it would be
erroneous to consider these developments as an assimilation of tribal cults
by the Hindu tradition; rather, one should regard them as different aspects
of one unique religious matrix represented by the Hindu tradition itself,
which lies beyond the restricted limits of ethnical and linguistic diversity
represented by social groups. The Kālikā Purāna contains several of these
elements, not only from a mythological point of view but also from a
ritualistic standpoint. The second consideration regards, instead, the
presence of the Mahāvidyā at Kāmākhyā. This group of goddesses is
worshipped both by the adepts of the vāmāmārga and those of the
dakshinamārga, in particular by the followers of the Shrividyā
sampradāya which is part of the shākta advaita school. The sādhanā of
the Shrividyā refuses the inclusion of any impure element. As testified by
the comments of Svāmi Karpātri, also in this case different religious
expressions can be encountered contemporarily as co-existing in the same
ritual place. The Mahāvidyā, consisting of formulas of knowledge and
manifestations of the primordial power (Ādi Shakti) are used by the adepts
of different affiliation, namely the vāmāchāra and the dakshināchāra as
tools for attaining different kinds of spiritual realisations. It is, therefore,
178 7. Claudia Ramasso
Note: This essay is an updated form of an earlier paper, cf. Ramasso 2007.
4. References
Agrawala, V.S. 1966. Shiva Mahādeva. Prithivi Prakashan, Varanasi.
Avalon, Arthur 1931. The Serpent Power. Being The Shat-Chakra-
Nirupana and Paduka-Panchaka. Ganesh and Co. Luzac and Co,
Madras-London.
Bharati, Agehananda 1993. Tantric Traditions. Hindustan Publishing
Corporation, Delhi.
Ramasso, Claudia 2007. The temple of Kamakhya and the cult of Dasa
Mahavidya. Annali di Ca’ Foscari, XLVI (3) [Serie orientale 38].
Venezia: pp. 175-200.
Daniélou, Alain 1964. Hindu Polytheism. Bollingen Foundation, New
York.
Goswamy, Kali Prasad 1998. Kāmākhyā Temple. A.P.H. Publishing
Corporation, New Delhi.
Gupta, Sanjukta 2000. The Worship of Kāli According to the Todala
Tantra; in, White, David Gordon (ed.) Tantra in Practice. Princeton
University Press, Princeton NJ.
Kakati, Banikanta 1989. The Mother Goddess Kamakhya. Publication
Board Assam, Guwahati.
Kāmākhyā Tantra 1990. Ed. by Vishvanārāyan Shāstrinā. Bhārtiya Vidyā
Prakāshan, Dilli/ Delhi.
Kinsley, David 1998. Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine: The Ten
Mahavidyās. Motilal Banarsidass, Delhi.
Kramrisch, Stella 1981. The presence of Shiva. Princeton University Press,
Princeton NJ.
Mānava-Dharma Shāstra 1992. Munshiram Manoharlal Publishers Pvt
Ltd, Delhi.
Mathur, P.R.G. 2000. Religion, Tribalism and Nationalism among the
Khasis of Meghalaya; in, Channa, Subhadra M. (ed.) International
Encyclopaedia of Tribal Religion, vol. 12. Cosmo Publications, New
Delhi.
Mishra, Nihar Ranjan 2004. Kamakhya – A Socio-Cultural Study. D.K.
Printworld (P) Ltd., New Delhi.
Nissor, Singh 1906. Khasi-English Dictionary. Shillong.
Some notes on the Kamakhya Pitha 179
Ramasso, Claudia 2007. The temple of Kamakhya and the cult of Dasa
Mahavidya. Annali di Ca’ Foscari, XLVI (3) [Serie orientale 38],
Venezia: 175-200.
Renfrew Brooks, Douglas 1999. The Secret of the Three Cities, An
Introduction to Hindu Shākta Tantrism. Munshiram Manoharlal
Publishers Pvt. Ltd., New Delhi.
Sarma, Ganga Prasad 1960. Kamrup Kamakhya. Bishnu Prakashan,
Guwahati.
Sarma, P. 1981-1982. Antiquity of the Kamakhya Temple on the Nilacala.
Journal of the Assam Research Society, Guwahati (ed. P. C.
Choudhary), vol. XXVI.
Sharma, Dharanikanta 1999. The Holy Shrine of Kamakhya. Ganesh
Bhavan, Guwahati.
Shiva Purāna 2002. Translated and Annotated by Professor J.L. Shastri, 4
vols. Motilal Banarsidass, Delhi.
Shri Mahābhāgavata Upapurāna 1998. Ed. by Āchārya Mrityunjaya
Tripāthi. Navashakti Prakashan, Vārānasi.
Singh, Rana P.B. 1997. Sacredscape, cosmic territory, and faithscape:
Goddess territory of Vindhyachal, India. National Geographical
Journal of India, 43 (3), Sept.: 237 - 263.
―. 2009a. Geographical Thoughts in India: Snapshots and Visions for the
21st Century. Planet Earth & Cultural Understanding: Series Pub. 4.
Cambridge Scholars Publishing, Newcastle upon Tyne UK.
―. 2009b. Vindhyachal, Where Goddess Resorts: Deviscape; in, Singh,
Rana P.B.: Cosmic Order and Cultural Astronomy. Planet Earth &
Cultural Understanding: Series Pub. 4. Cambridge Scholars Publishing,
Newcastle upon Tyne UK: 123-150.
―. 2010. Sacred geography Vindhyāchal Goddess territory; in, Singh,
Rana P.B. (ed.) Sacred Geography of Hindu Goddesses in South Asia.
Planet Earth & Cultural Understanding Series, Pub. 5. Cambridge
Scholars Publishing, Newcastle upon Tyne: 211-248.
Singh, Ravi S. 2009. The Goddess Kamakhya Temple complex:
Symbolism, Sacredscape, and Festivals. Man in India, International
Journal of Anthropology (New Delhi), 89 (1-2), Jan.-June: 121-140.
―. 2010. Goddess Chhinamasta at Rajarappa; in, Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.)
Sacred Geography of Goddesses in South Asia. Planet Earth &
Cultural Understanding Series, Pub. 5. Cambridge Scholars Publishing,
Newcastle upon Tyne UK: 181-210.
Svāmi Karpātri (Svāmi Shri Hariharānanda Sarasvati ‘Karpātri-ji’) 1945.
Shri Bhagavati Tattva. Siddhānta, V: pp. 271-274. Kāshi.
―. 1942. Panchamakāra. Siddhānta, III: pp. 290-291. Kāshi.
180 7. Claudia Ramasso
-----------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. On the line of ‘deep ecology’ and quest for searching and
understanding the inherent messages, symbology is now accepted as
common road to march upon. The idea of Earth as living nurture of life
substance is a popular ideology even in the West, whose deeper roots are
linked to Eastern mysticism. The way of Tantrism tries to integrate ‘use’
(bhoga) and ‘meditation’ (yoga) and provides a clue to understand the
spirit of place. The inherent spirit and its expositions are vividly narrated
in the complexity of mythology and symbolic expressions. The story of
Chhinnamastā is a unique example of this mythology and set of symbols
in the line of the tradition of the Great Goddess. The present paper is an
ethno-geographic attempt to describe the mythology of the Chhinnamastā,
rituals performed, her sacred complex shot into prominence at regional
level recently and the activities there.
Keywords. Rajarappā, Mahāvidyas, Chhinnamastā, Tantra, symbolism,
sacredscape, economicscape, mythology, leisure, pleasure.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
The human quest to locate (them)selves in the transcendental divine
cosmic order takes them to the nature in search of messages and their
understanding. That is how symbology is accepted as common road to
march upon. With the resurgence of pro-ecology, pro-nature, and pro-earth
concerns (in motherly form); the idea of Earth as living nurture of life
substance (like Gaia) is accepted as popular ideology across the world.
The mythological description of Chhinnamastā’s origin exemplifies this
ideology symbolically. Tantrism, the cult to which all ten Mahāvidyas
(“great knowledges”) including Chhinnamastā originally belong, tries to
integrate use (“bhoga”) and meditation (“yoga”) in the process of
182 8. Ravi S. Singh
2. The Mahāvidya(s)
The Mahāvidyas, in general, are among lesser-known and least
understood deities in the Hindu pantheon. Their lesser popularity may be
attributed to quite late appearance in the historical context; association
with Āgama Shāstra (Tantrism) in which the practitioner (tāntrika)
preferably keeps rituals and practices secret; and, also to some extent their
relatively recent depiction in goddess temples and contemporary
lithographs. There are only a few temples and temple complexes where
they are glorified as the absolute presiding deities.
Historically, they have been known since the early medieval period as
a group; and some like Kāli and Tārā record earlier appearance in ancient
period. The mythological and iconographical details of the Mahāvidyas are
found in Tāntrika and Shākta texts; belonging to the medieval period (ca.
11th - 12th centuries CE). Some of the important texts are Tantrasāra,
Shaktisangama Tantra, Shāktapramoda, a few late Shākta Purānas and
Upa-Purānas (Kane, 1953), e.g. Devi-Bhagavata, etc. There are two
versions of Tantrasara available, viz. Tantrasara by Abhinavagupta (ca.
17th century CE), and Tantrasara by Krishnanada (ca. 17th century CE).
Shaktisangama Tantra (ca. 16th-17th CE) is divided into four
parts/volumes: Kāli, Tārā, Sundari, and Chhinnamastā. Shāktapramoda
(Singh, 1951) is a relatively new text. It contains 17 compiled tantras,
referring to Kāli, Tārā, Shodashi, Bhuvaneshvari, Chhinnamastā,
Tripurabhairavi, Dhumāvati, Bagalāmukhi, Mātangi, Kamalātmikā,
Kumārikā, Balidanakrama, Durgā, Shiva, Ganesha, Surya and Vishnu.
is the ‘Great Mantras’. Popularly they are also understood as supreme and
superior knowledge or wisdom. Many versions of the mythology
explaining the Mahāvidyas’ origin are found today; of course, all of them
are not supported by literary descriptions. According to one version, origin
of the ten Mahāvidyas is part of the story of Daksha’s sacrifice, as
supported by Mahābhāgavata Purāna and Brihaddharma Purāna
(Kinsley, 1997: 22). Scholars believe that the Mahāvidyas actually did not
appear in the early versions of the story and these two Upa-Purānas have
glorified these goddesses by linking to the story of Daksha’s sacrifice —
an important shākta myth known all over India (ibid.).
The story, as mentioned in both of these mythological texts, is as
follow:
On the basis of this story and other versions some general conclusions
drawn are: i) the Mahāvidyas are related to Shiva, ii) Shiva is sub-ordinate
to these goddesses, iii) the Mahāvidyas are fierce goddesses, iv) the
Mahāvidyas are associated with magical powers, v) presence of gender
conflict even among divinities and want of female independence, vi) world
maintenance is not strongly attached to these goddesses except Kāli, and
184 8. Ravi S. Singh
Table 8.2. Main Shrines and Holy Places of the Mahāvidyas (cf. Fig. 8.1)
Mahāvidya Literal Important Shrines and Holy Places
Meaning
1. (Māhā) The Black Kālipitha, Kolkata (W.B.); Kalka, near
Kāli goddess Chandigarh (Haryana); Chittor Fort (Rajasthan);
Pawagarh (Gujarat).
2. Tārā The goddess Tārāpitha, Tārāpur (Birbhum, (W.B.);
of cremation Vanagamahishi, Saharasa (Bihar)
ground
3. Shodashi The most Tripurasundari, Radhakishorepur near Agartala
beautiful (Tripura); Tripurasundari, Moravi (Saurashtra,
Gujarat); Lalitā Devi Gupta Kashi (U.P.); Lalitā
Devi, Pryag (U.P.); Lalitā Devi at Naimisha,
Baharaich (U.P.); Tripurasundrai at Tiruvattiur,
near Chennai (Tamilnadu); Shiyali, near
Chidambaram (Tamilnadu)
4. Bhuvane- The Cosmic Rajarajeshvari temple at Baranagar, near Kolkata
shvari controller (W.B.); Rajarajeshvari temple at Bangarmau
(U.P.); Rajarajeshvari temple in Mandala Fort,
Mandala (Madhya Pradesh)
5. Chhinna- The self- Rajarappā, Hazaribagh (Bihar); in Sumeru Devi
mastā beheaded temple, Ramnagar (Varanasi, U.P.); Jangamabari,
goddess Varanasi (U.P.); on Nandan hills near
Vaidhyanath (Bihar); Vasukinath (Bihar)
6. Bhairavi Shamanic Hinglaj (Pakistan)
dancer
7. Dhumāvati The smoke- Datia (Madhya Pradesh)
faced
8. Vaglā- The crane Datia (Madhya Pradesh); Gaya (Bihar);
mukhi headed Baidyanath (Bihar); Durgākuti, Hoshangabad
(Madhya Pradesh)
9. Mātangi The excited Modhera (Gujarat)
one
10. Kamalā The lotus- Mahabalipuram (T.N.); Gaya (Bihar); Kālimath;
like tender Kedarnath, at Lakshmi Kund, Varanasi (U.P.);
Kolhapur and Pandharpur (M.R,); Oraiyura (T.N.)
Note: Shrines of all the Ten Mahāviyās are at these places and also at Kāmākhyā,
near Guwāhati (Assam); (source: Compiled from various sources).
188 8. Ravi S. Singh
Once, Pārvati went to bathe, with her attendants Jayā and Vijayā, in
the Mandakini River. The complexion of the great goddess became dark
after bathing as she was sexually aroused. After some time the
attendants asked her to give them some food because they were feeling
hungry. She replied, “I shall give you food but please wait”. Her
attendants repeated the request for food after some time. “Please wait, I
am thinking about some matters”, she replied. While waiting, they kept
on imploring her. Then Shiva’s consort told them that they will get
anything back at home. The attendants begged her “We are over-
possessed with hunger, O Mother of Universe! Give us some food, so
that we are satisfied, O Merciful one! Bestower of Boons and Fulfiller of
Desires”.
The merciful goddess smiled on this true statement and severed her
head with her fingernails. As soon as she severed her head, that fell on
190 8. Ravi S. Singh
the palm of her left hand. Three blood streams came out of her throat.
The left and right fell respectively into the mouths of the flanking
attendants on both sides and the central one into her own mouth. After
this they were satisfied and went back home. Since this day Pārvati is
called Chhinnamastā.
The above described myth and iconographical features (Fig 8.2 and
8.3) of Chhinnamastā highlight some important aspects and their broader
meaning. The mythology proves her association with Shiva when she is
called ‘the consort of Shiva’—Pārvati or Mahāmāya. Her engagement in
reverse sexual intercourse with Shiva and dismounting him before he
ejaculates show her dominance over and independence too.
In comparison to the places dedicated to other forms of goddesses,
limited shrines of Mahāvidyas are observed but for Kāli and Tārā. The
places recording images of Chhinnamastā are Rajarappā, Vaidyanātha,
Vāsukinātha (Bihar), Vārānasi, and Rāmnagar (Uttar Pradesh).
sexual energy surging through her body gushes out in the form of blood,
through this process, the continuum of creation, perseverance-maintenance
and destruction/dissolution is symbolised. It also represents the transfer of
energy from one body to another, a conceptual theme in ecological studies.
3.3. Nakedness
As, any other goddess (e.g. Kāli) Chhinnamastā too is depicted naked
along with her attendants. A general explanation of it could be the goddess
and her attendants were bathing when the particular incident, after which
Pārvati was called Chhinnamastā, happened. That is why they have been
visualised naked.
However, the symbolic meaning of the goddess’s nakedness is deeper.
It refers to the mula svarupa (“original form”) of the goddess that is pure.
It connotes the goddess being devoid of māyā (“illusion”). Nakedness is
also interpreted as the ‘liberated’ condition. By being naked she is
revealing herself to the adept in her basic form. The devi’s nakedness is
shunyata (“voidness”) from which cosmic creation is to take place. The
naked form of the goddess is the symbol of her readiness for ‘copulation’
with the sādhaka (“adept”) and therefore also the symbol of granting the
desired intimacy, an adept wishes to enjoy. Nakedness symbolise the state
of full passion and sexual desire too, a pre-requisite for the initiation of
creation process.
4. Chhinnamastā Yantra
Yantra, a spatial cosmogram showing mystical design, symbolises an
abstract form of the patron deity, which with the supporting divinity
regulates the cosmic rhythm. The basic frame of the Yantra consists of 3
parts — a square (water) representing 4 levels, a circle (light) representing
8 points of cardinality, and the covering triangle (wind) representing 3
mythical realms. Their integration (4 x 8 x 3) comes to 96 which is a result
of multiplication between 12 zodiacs/months and 8 cardinal direction. By
this numerical complexity goddess Chhinnamastā is denoted as the cosmic
spirit looking after the annual cycle of rhythm. This yantra is comparable
to the more advance form of spirituo-cosmogram Shriyantra. The outer
form of 3 lines in Chhinnamastā Yantra making square and the attached 4
gates is directly adopted from Shriyantra called Shishirita (‘shivered’).
This represents the pitha (seat) of 4 divinities whose characteristics are
symbolised by the associated colours: Indra, god of rain and cloud, with
red; Yama, god of death, with black; Varuna, god of ocean, with white;
and Kubera, god of wealth, with golden yellow.
The Chhinnamastā Yantra (see Fig. 8.4), as many others, consists of a
bhupura, a series of 8 lotus petals, triangles and circles. The gates of the
bhupura are guarded by directional deities, viz. Indra, Yama, Varuna and
Kubera in the east, south, west and north, respectively. The four directions
together make a complete and self-contained platform signifying totality.
Lotus is the symbol of purity and beauty. However, in Buddhism,
particularly in Mahayana Buddhism (and Tantra), it is a powerful symbol
representing the mind of enlightenment, bodhichita (cf. Benard 1994: 89).
The 8-petalled lotus in this yantra represents eight deities, namely
Lakshmi (east), Brahmā (southeast), Kāma (south), Vishuu (southwest),
Māyā/Durgā (west), Rudra (northeast). Among the 8 lotus-petals the
trinity of male powers (Brahmā, Vishnu, and Shiva/Ishāna), and their
controlling energy of female power (Vāni/Sarasvati, Lakshmi, and
Māyā/Durgā) are further manifested in the supreme power of primordial
man (Rudra) and the creative force (Kāma). The later aspect is given
196 8. Ravi S. Singh
heroic (68), terrible (5), odious (86), marvellous (655), peaceful (44), and
4 are not classified (Benard 1994: 139-140)
5.1. Sacredscape
This sacred place was more popular among the aboriginal communities of
the nearby villages and lesser known to outsiders as late as 1950s.
However, local priests claim the tradition of Tāntrika rituals since ancient
past. The patron shrine of Goddess Chhinnamastā, along with auxiliary
temples dedicated to other Mahāvidyas and numerous other gods and
goddesses together constitute the sacredscape of Rajarappā.
Chhinnamastā Temple: The built structure of this temple, as seen
today, was developed during 1960s when temple repairing and renovation
works were undertaken at large scale. Since then there have been several
minor modification and additions. The temple is octagonal stone structure
constructed on a raised platform (approx. 12m x 12m). Architecturally, it
200 8. Ravi S. Singh
somewhere in this region. They also admitted ignorance about this place
before the visit.
Motive of visiting a holy place is always the outcome of faith and
reverence attributed in a particular divinity. The motives of pilgrims
visiting Rajarappā could be classified as (i) routine visit, (ii) mundana
(“tonsure ritual”), (iii) thanks-giving on fulfilment of wish(es), iv) taking a
vow, (v) special ritual performance on a given auspicious occasion, (vi)
marriage ceremony, (vii) (new) vehicle’s pujā, and (viii) pilgrimage-
tourist visit, i.e. picnic. Pujā (“worship”) of a newly bought vehicle is
unique here. Actually the vehicle’s pujā is nothing but symbolic offering
to the goddess seeking her blessing. This trend is very common in India,
especially the lesser or non-metropolitan India. If interpreted from
devotees’ angle even a vehicle needs divine blessing for proper running
and protection against accidents, etc.
Rajarappā is a favoured venue for solemnising marriages among low
and lower-middle strata of the society which is economically poor. Many
marriages are solemnised any day during a marriage season. Family
members, relatives and friends of bride and bridegroom assemble on the
scheduled date. On the completion of the marriage rituals they dine
together in community feast. And, by evening leave Rajarappā for
respective places.
5.5. Socio-Economicscape
The supporting socio-economicscape at a sacredscape promotes the
functionality, continuity and multiplicity of pilgrimage. Associated built
structures provide shelter to pilgrims and also serve as shops selling
ritualistic and non-ritualistic items; moreover, they also provide means of
livelihood to especially to the local people. In fact, sacred and profane
structures are mutually supportive in making the aliveness and continuity
of a pilgrimage centre’s system.
Dharmashālās (“Charity Rest Houses”): Overnight stay at Rajarappā
is problematic due to the unavailability of enough guesthouses and hotels
with boarding facility. There are only two such rest houses —
Kumudaprita Āshrama and Birla Dharmashālā. Due to limited number of
rooms and relatively higher tariff rates a common pilgrim can not afford
staying in the former. Birla Dharmashālā is extremely small and lacks
essential facilities. During the marriage season, generally it is overbooked
by different parties.
Hotels: Most of the pilgrims follow the ascribed rule of fasting during
the course of ritual period. Apart from them many others, particularly
staff(s) on vehicles, also demand for food services. That is how one finds
more than half a dozen dhābās (“eating places”) in Rajarappā; visitors call
them hotels invariably, actually a common practice in layman’s language
in India. These dhābās sell tea, items of Indian breakfast, sweetmeats and
serve average Indian meals too. The hygiene condition is not good in such
eating places. There are some chatawālla thelās (“vendors selling spicy
dishes”) also. Most of these hotels are on the roadside near vehicles
parking area. Pilgrim-tourists not only eat at these shops, they buy pera
(“milk chocolate”) to offer the goddess.
Shops: Along all the paths leading to the main shrine of
Chhinnamastā there appear numerous small shops. These shops could be
broadly divided into four types (cf. Table 8.7). Increasing number of
visiting devotees in last two decades has promoted proliferation of shops.
Most of these shops are semi-permanent. Shopkeepers open their counters
in morning and close early evening. Normally they do not stay in
Rajarappā at night. Being from the neighbouring settlements they
preferably spend night at home. However, a recent most change is
noticeable; shopkeepers now prefer to stay back in the wake of heavy
Goddess Chhinnamastā at Rajarappā 207
Vehicles’ Parking Area: The old parking area is almost in the centre
of Rajarappā where the road (from Rāmgarh) ends. This parking area was
created in 1972. It is a rectangular area of 187 sq.m located in southwest
from the patron deity’s shrines. With increasing number of vehicles this
parking space appears too small. As a result, a new parking area has been
created; still, vehicles parked along roadside outnumber those in the
parking area.
6. Towards Conclusion
Transformation has played significant role in the development of
relatively new sacred complexes. In the case of Rajarappā, as it happens
elsewhere too, strong faith of visiting devotees enshrouded with local
myths and mystic propaganda by the pilgrim-tourists persuade more
devout Hindus to visit the shrine. Manifold increase in the number of the
visiting devotees to this shrine during the last four decades is a direct
evidence to it. Despite the considerable increase in visitors and allied
developments taken place, majority of the devotees do not perceive
Chhinnamastā distinctly in terms of her origin, qualities that characterise
her, and the symbolic meanings the image manifests. She is taken as the
powerful form of Great Goddess and identified separately due to the
uniqueness of her image – ‘self decapitated’ only. The physical landscape,
particularly the confluence of Bhairavi and Damodar rivers, provides a
unique setting for archetypal connotation with reference to the
Chhinnamastā’s image.
The chief rites performed there are vow initiation and vow
completion. In addition to that it is a favoured venue of local villagers’
ritual-performances like all other Hindu holy places. Remarkable change
has been noticed in pilgrims’ attitude and behaviour. Religious ethics
(dharma) is slowly superseded by the worldly motives of pleasure and
recreation. With the onset of replacement process of the older ways by the
contemporary ones, festivities and religious rituals have lost deeper
meanings and sense of attachment—the basic elements of traditional
festivals and performances. Better links of Rajarappā with other places,
improved means of transportation, along with advertisement and informal
information dissemination, and a tremendous increase is noticed in the
inflow of tourists. Consequently, the socio-economicscape at Rajarappā
becomes predominant over sacredscape. Nevertheless, there is enough
scope of development of pilgrimage-tourism at this complex with a view
to preserving the essence of sacred and faithscape in the light of soul
healing.
Goddess Chhinnamastā at Rajarappā 209
7. References
Bernardt, Elisabeth Anne 1994. Chinnamastā: The Awful Buddhist and
Tantric Goddess. Motilal Banarasidass, Delhi.
Bhardwaj, Surinder Mohan 1973. Hindu Places of Pilgrimage in India.
University of California Press, Berkeley.
Gaur, Motilal Sharma 1934. Ten Mahāvidya; in, Shakti Anka of Kalyan (in
Hindi. Gita Press, Gorakhpur), vol. 9 (1-2): 89-112.
Jha, Indra Mohan 1987. Chhinnamastā Siddhapitha Rajarappā (in Hindi).
Amar Printers, Ranchi.
Kane, Pandurang Vaman 1953. History of Dharmashastra, Vol.4.
Bhandarkar Oriental Institute, Poona.
Kinsley, David 1997. Tantric Visions of the Divine Feminine: The Ten
Mahāvidyas. University of California Press, Berkeley.
Matsya Purāna. Trans. B.C. Majumdar, et al. [ed. J.D. Akhtar]. Oriental
Publishers, Delhi. 1972 (d. ca. 9th century CE).
Morinis, E. Alan 1984. Pilgrimage in the Hindu Tradition: A case study
of West Bengal. Oxford University Press, Delhi.
Sahay, K.N. 1975. Hindu shrines of Chotanagpur. Case study of
Tanginath. Indian Institute of Advanced Study, Simla; 1st edition.
Singh, Rajadevanandan (ed.) 1951. Saktapramoda. Venkateshvara Press,
Bombay.
Singh, Rana P.B. 1993. Cosmos, Theos, Anthropos: an inner vision of
sacred ecology in Hinduism. National Geographical Journal of India,
39: 113-130.
―. 1998. Sacred journey, Sacredscape and Faithscape: an experience of
the Panchakroshi pilgrimage, Varanasi (India). The Pennsylvania
Geographer, 35 (1): 55-91.
―. 2002. Towards the Pilgrimage Archetype. Panchakroshi Yātrā of
Banaras. Pilgrimage & Cosmology Series, Pub. 3. Indica Books,
Varanasi.
―. 2009a. Geographical Thoughts in India: Snapshots and Visions for the
21st Century. Planet Earth & Cultural Understanding: Series Pub. 2.
Cambridge Scholars Publishing, Newcastle upon Tyne UK.
―. 2009b. Banaras, Making of India’s Heritage City. Planet Earth &
Cultural Understanding, Series no. 3. Cambridge Scholars Publishing,
Newcastle upon Tyne UK.
Singh, Rana P.B. and Singh, Ravi S. 2010. Sacred Places of Goddesses in
India: Spatiality and Symbolism; in, Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.) Sacred
Geography of Hindu Goddesses in South Asia. Planet Earth & Cultural
210 8. Ravi S. Singh
--------------------------------------------------
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. The idea of goddess in ancient Hindu mythologies refers to
primordial creative force which in later period eulogised mythologically as
the places where Sati’s corpse part fell down. Their numbers are 51 in the
Indian subcontinent, which are called as pithas believing that the energy of
goddess is possessed therein. Of course in the list of 51 Vindhyāchal is not
counted, it manifests all the forms of goddess. The goddess territory of
Vindhyāchal marked by the three edges of her shrines together with
superimposed triangle of three forms of Shiva, thus evolves the hexagram
in landscape. Its central part Ānandamayi Āshrama serves as the navel
base, axis mundi. In all the three temples of goddess exist the abbreviated
forms of the rest of the two; that is how by circumambulating one of the
temples a devotee gets merit of pilgrimage to the whole area. The
cosmology and complexity of landscape and mythologies support the
characteristics of ‘self-organised principle’ and mesocosmic structure.
Key Words: circumambulation, faithscape, manifestation, pilgrimage,
sacredscape, territory, transcendent, trikona, yantra.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Vindhyavāsini (Kinsley 1983: 99, also Passi 2008: 262). The Vindhya
Mountain itself is pre-eminent as being one of the sacred places (pithas)
where Shiva dropped a segment of the body of his beloved wife Sati
(goddess) and thereby initiated the establishment of her cult (cf. Mani
1984: 192-194; Sirkar 1973: 3-20). According to the Prākrit drama
Gaudavāho (285-337) by Vākpatirāja, king Yashovarman (CE 730-753)
undertakes a military campaign in the autumn and shortly after beginning
his march he paid visit to Vindhyeshvari at the foot of the hill (Suru 1975).
On this hilltop is the temple of Durgā (Ashtabhujā!), and in a nearby wood
stands a temple of Kāli (cf. Bakker 1983: 28-29). The goddess
Vindhyavāsini is described in many of the Purānas (e.g. MkP, 91.37; MtP,
13.39; BgP, 7.38.8, 10.4.7-13). The HvP (2.3.6-7) mentions that She is
worshipped in the Vindhya mountains by tribal people like Sabara,
Varvara and Pulinda which we find mentioned as Rama’s friends and
devotees within Tulasi’s Rāmacharitamānasa, a late sixteenth century epic
(cf. Sircar 1973: 20). Still her worship among the tribal is popular. The
Gaudavāho narrates that Vindhyavāsini also represents the aspect of Kāli
(a frightening goddess) and worshipped by Shabaras, a tribe of primitive
hunters, and is clothed in leaves, and receives human sacrifices (Sirkar
1973: 20). The Aitareya Brāhmana (7.18) describes Sabaras as low-grade
tribe performing totemism. A seventh century drama Kādambari by
Bānabhatta also mentions the worship of goddess by Sabaras, which takes
place in the forest, and blood offerings are made to the goddess (Kinsley
1986: 117). The 12th century, Kalhana’s Rājatarangini (3.394-431) refers
to the same goddess as Bhramaravāsini in connection with the 6th century
Kashmiri king named Ranadiya. These narrations indicate the primitive
nature of worship, of course she was considered very powerful.
In the late 18th century, the British East India Company set up
headquarters in Mirzapur and began to collect considerable tolls from
Vindhyāchal Temple pilgrims. About 1810, William Sleeman described
the dominance of a network of ‘thieves’ known as the ‘thugs’ to whom he
called a murderous cult devoted to Vindhyavāsini (?) in her horrific aspect.
By 1827 with the initiatives of Lord William Betink measures were taken
to eradicate the practice. After a little public outcry, the practice of the
thugs was banned (Bruce 1968: 42; cf. Humes 1995). In fact,
Vindhyavāsini was not mentioned, however one can not deny that the
practice of cheating and theft, or sometimes even murder, was associated
to this place. Gordon (1969: 406) concludes that the Thugs’ motivation
was plunder, not psychological blood lust devoted to the Goddess, and
those they killed were rich, independent of caste or religion. Some
accounts say that before the British, in most parts of the Mirzapur-
Rana Singh: Sacred Geography of Vindhyāchal 213
Shrāvana (July-August), Shukla (light half) 5th are still common. The
Nāgesha linga of Shiva, lying in the well at southeast corner is also
worshipped (VM, 47.21).
2. Vindhyavāsini Temple
According to the local belief the temple of Vindhyavāsini was made in
ca. 1589, however the image in the temple is much older. It is also
believed that Vindhyavāsini is one among the most ancient of Hindu
goddesses and she has an important role in the rise of Hindu theology of
the Great Goddess. Since the early centuries of the current era, the goddess
received a special position in the Shākta pantheon either in the form of
216 9. Rana Singh
164, Humes 1996: 49 ff.,). The Devi Purāna, one of the 18 Upa-Purānas,
states that the Great Goddess incarnated herself in the Vindhyan
Mountains for the purpose to kill the demon Ghora who threatened the
world (Dev 1987: 169-170). The myths and legends of Vindhyavāsini are
also narrated in the Harivamsa and Skanda Purāna, in the context of being
intruder linked to reconstruct proto-myth, association with Kaushiki,
Shaiva myths and Shākta myths, and also assimilation of Mahishāsura-
mardini to Vindhyavāsini that turned to rise of the ‘Warrior Goddess’ (for
a detailed and critical study of text, context and historicity, see Yokochi
2004). All the 700 metres of the DM are inscribed on the wall of the main
pavilion completed in the period of February 1980 - October 1982. This
gives a modern outlook of religious practice.
Every pilgrim visits Vindhyavāsini temple, and perceives the Goddess
as the transcendent ultimate. The uniqueness of the temple complex is the
existence of the spatial manifestation of two forms of goddess, i.e. Kāli (of
south) and Sarasvati (of west). In abbreviated form by performing
circumambulation to these three images devotees complete the innermost
pilgrimage to the three edges, known as laghu trikona yātrā (“smaller
triangle circuit”; cf. Fig. 9.4, compare 9.9). There are three spots for
specific rituals, area for goat sacrifice, fire altar, and tonsure. On average
everyday over 1000 devotees pay visit to the temple, however during the
special periods of worship (Chaitra, March-April, and Āshvina,
September-October) the number increases two to five times. Thus, in total
the annual number of visitors reaches over half a million. Close to the
main image underneath are the images of Brahmā, Vishnu and Shiva ―
representing the three cosmic forms of male energy. Forms of regional
goddesses and Shiva are also established in the temple compound. This
way the temple complex of Vindhyavāsini emerges into a microcosm ― a
hologram, where “the sum total of the parts is contained in each part, and
that sum-of-the-parts-being-in-each-part is supposed to reflect the
transcendental oneness underlying the manifold separateness” (Wilber
1990: 157). The existence of images related to Vaishnavite, Shaivite,
Shākta and local traditions (e.g. Phulamati) refers to the Hindu Pantheism
where by reducing the ultimate power to that sum of the parts, is then
present in each part. Similar architectural design and symbolic expression
are exposed in the temple complexes of Kāli and Asthabhujā.
Describing the experiences of his visit in early 19th century William
Sleeman, a British officer, reports: [T]hey lifted up their hands and
shouted.....” Glory to Bindhyāchul: (Vindhyāchal) Bhowanee’s glory!
Every one marking use of precisely the same invocation, though four were
Mahomedans, one a Brahmin, and the rest Rajpoots, and other castes of
Rana Singh: Sacred Geography of Vindhyāchal 219
bleeds more and more profusely from his wounds, the battlefield fills with
the duplicates. Kāli finally defeats the demon by sucking the blood from
his body and throwing the countless duplicate Raktabijas into her gaping
mouth (DM, 8.60-61; Kinsley 1997: 71). This face is also referred in the
Autsanash Purāna (27.30) that she is the controller of the south and the
supreme goddess. In the straight line there are images of Asthabhujā
(Sarasvati) and Lakshmi (Vindhyavāsini), thus by circumambulating the
inner circuit in abbreviated form one gets the merit of performing the real
triangular pilgrimage.
By early 19th century the glory of this shrine started attracting
devotees from different sects and classes which resulted to the
establishment of many images of divinities like Ganesha, Hanumān,
Surya, Shiva and Nandi. West to the main complex is a small shrine of
Bhutanātha (Bhairava) and Bramha Deva (an image of defiled Brahmin)
where the left-wing follower devotees perform their special rituals and
exorcism (called as black magic) during autumn-nights associated to
goddess.
Following the 122 steps at the backside of the temple complex,
pilgrims arrive on top of the hill and after 1.5 km arrive at Geruā Talab, a
sub-stop in the way. Many pilgrims take rest, pay visit to Sakshi Gopāla
temple, Lakshmi Nārāyana temple, and Ganesha and Hanumān shrines.
From here there are two destinations-one to the Mukteshvara Shiva and
the Kunda, and another to Asthabhujā through Sitākunda. After less than a
kilometre in the north, pilgrims meet the Sitākunda, a natural spring where
shrines of Raāma, Sitā and Durgā are worshipped and the holy water from
the spring be sprinkled on the body and also to be drink. In both the cases,
pilgrims finally reach to Asthabhujā.
4. Asthabhujā
Many people believe that the description of the origin of goddess as
given in the DM (11.37-38) refers to the “eight-armed” Asthabhujā image
on the hill, lying at about 3.3 km west from the Vindhyavāsini temple. She
is known as Mahā Sarasvati, representing ‘speech’ (vac) ― the feminine
power of progeny, while her partner Prajāpati/Brahmā (“the creator”)
symbolized “mind” (mānasa), thus by the computation of mind with
speech the sound came into being- this is a process of sacrifice to the gods
(SB, 1.4.4.1 and 7). However, in the most popularly cited text, DM, the
name does not appear separately, but designates one of the powers of the
Great goddess. At another place she herself is worshipped as wisdom
(DM, 11.22).
222 9. Rana Singh
also took the associated form to support her in creation and preservence of
the cosmos. However, Shiva is not visible in most of the cases, in spite of
his own ways of reference. In making the yantra in its eternity the three
forms of Shiva form a triangle which apex is upward indicating north (Fig.
9.7). In the sacredscape of Vindhyāchal these three forms of Shiva are:
Vankhandishvara (east), Mukteshvara (west), and Rāmeshvara (north).
The superimposition of Shiva triangle upon the Goddess triangle
converges to a hexagram. The upward triangle symbolized the purusha
(male; linga) and lower ward the prakriti (female; yoni), therefore the
resultant hexagram is perceived as symbol of creation. These three states
are identically parallel to gross-realm, animate-realm, and causal-realm
(cf. Singh 1993: 118).
Lord Rāma had performed ancestral rites and also worshipped Shiva by
establishing a linga there, therefore the linga is known as Rāmeshvara.
Attached to this there are shrines where lingas established by his three
brothers also visible, named as Bharateshvara, Lakshmaneshvara and
Shatrughneshvara (cf. VM, 41.46-49; 50.33). The chief priest told that in
ca. 1669 the temple was demolished by the order of the bigoted Mughal
emperor Aurangzeb, however the inner structure and the big and strong
pillars and columns were saved and still testify the incidence. By close
investigation one can surely predict that this temple was certainly a huge
stone-brick made monument belonging to not later than the 13th century
CE.
Fig. 9.8. Vināyaki Devi, motherly-form Ganesha.
reminds the history of worship of mother goddess during ca. the 13th
century prevalent in the past. By walking in the shrubs and old gardens
one can see many mother images in ruined form. Of course Vināyaki is not
cited in the list of eight/nine mother-goddesses, mātrikās (cf. Mackenzie
Brown 1974: 42). It can easily be assumed that the oral tradition had been
accepted by the Brahmānic tradition. Vināyaka (Ganesha) as dikpāla,
directional deity, certainly needs the force of primordial energy and
probably this form is represented in his female form. We find a parallel
festival of Sun worship where Sun is worshipped as mother, known as
Chhatha (cf. Singh 2009c: 216-226).
About half kilometre north of Rāmeshvara at the bank of Gangā is the
popular shrine of Tārā, known as Shmashāna Tārā (“goddess of the
cremation ground”). The auxiliary shrines are the Akshobhya Shiva and a
huge size Nandi (Shiva’s bull). At the ghāt the cremation and ancestral
rites take place. Oral tradition narrates that Lord Rāma had performed
ancestral rites in the name of his father, resulting to name it as Rāma Gāyā
Ghāt. Even at present this is an active cremation site. The western point of
Shiva is identified with Mukteshvara attached with Mukti Kunda. The
main temple is on a platform of 1.5m height with open veranda all around.
this is a little off the main route, therefore less pilgrims are paying visit, of
course sitting, setting and scenery are more close to nature spirit which
one can easily experience.
Vankhandishvara Shiva (cf. Fig. 9.1), located about half a kilometre
exactly south from Vindhyavāsini represents the eastern point of Shiva.
The linga is lying on the seven lotus-petal platform and facing north
towards Vindhyavāsini. Closely to this shrine are many scattered ruined
icons and images, columns of the gates, which are the testimony to its
historicity. The nomenclature of the name refers that the shrine was amidst
the forest (Vankhandi-) which in course of time has been encroached by
the settlers. At present from the road narrow lane links this shrine, and
rarely pilgrims pay visit to this site.
Mahā Shakti ― the universality of the basic creation force (cf. Heilijgers-
Seelen 1994: 16). The invisible form of this force is called as Mahā
Lakshmi, also known later on as Vindhyavāsini (VM, 37.1). Vindhyavāsini
as Mahā Lakshmi “has many and obvious associations with the sap of
existence that underlies or pervades all planet and animal life” (Kinsley
1983: 27). Lakshmi’s association with Vishnu, the supreme lord and
overseer of all the ceremonies, and the preserver in the trinity of Hindu
pantheon, refers to her royal place, while her form as the Great Lakshmi
she lives with the Shiva who possesses the quality of ‘preserver’.
The VM (27.3) describes Vindhyavāsini as ultimate force of creation,
known as Mahā Lakshmi, who together with Kāli and Sarasvati controls
the rhythm of cosmic movement. The ultimate force exists at the centre of
the triangle, and the three forms of the same creative force exist at the
three edges identified with the three qualities of purity (sattva),
energy/activity (rajas), and ignorance (tamas). The triad nature of ultimate
force has several symbolic expressions (see Table 9.1, Fig. 9.7).
The two positions (up, and down) of the triangles also show two forms
of relationships between humanity and environment-value and operation.
In each case an angle represents a particular attribute: physical, social and
spiritual as the basic attributes of value system; and ideology, needs and
actions as components of the operational system. These two systems
working together represent the human lifeworld (cf. Singh 1992: 141). The
hexagram-form is the most common archetypal representation of design
through which the devotee invokes the Goddess; says Ambāmata Samhitā
(19.3) that, “you are within (the mandala) of six parts and, called the letter
I, you who are very powerful! You are the dynamic union of Sun, Moon,
and Fire in the middle of the Drop, O Great Sound (mahāravā)!” (cf.
Dyczkowski 2009b: 552).
The location characteristics based on GPS (Global Positioning
Satellites) of the six cosmogonic and central points are given in Table 9.2
(see Fig. 9.9). The GPS values have established landscape patterns of
considerable accuracy. However, the exact process by which the
pilgrimage sites of Vindhyāchal Kshetra, like other sites in India (see
Malville and Gujral 1999), invested with symbolic meaning and organized
into large scale geometry remain unclear.
Table 9.2. Vindhya Kshetra: Cosmogonic Reference Points (cf. Fig. 9.9)
The sacred sites have been established through the coherent and
repetitive experiences and revelation of groups of devotees in the frame of
Rana Singh: Sacred Geography of Vindhyāchal 231
Fig. 9.10. Vindhyāchal Yantra, comparing the Shri Yantra (right side).
232 9. Rana Singh
8. The Pilgrimage
The VM (47-50) prescribes a detailed rules and ways of pilgrimage to
Vindhyāchal Kshetra, known as Panchakroshi Yātrā. Accordingly the
pilgrimage should be completed in the period of five days. The preceding
day is the day of initiation to be started by taking holy dip in the Gangā
river and by keeping fast in the day and cleaning the mind by meditation
(VM, 47.5-7). The pilgrims are suggested to sleep on the ground.
The 1st day journey starts with holy bath in the Gangā, followed by
paying visit to Vindhyavāsini and asking her for blessing and energy to
have successful completion of the journey. Many images of divinities like
Shiva, Hanuman, sacred water pools, Bhairavas, etc., are prescribed to
visit which are located in different parts (VM, 47.16-32). Like the preceding
night pilgrims are prescribed to awaken and sing songs in honour of the
goddess.
The 2nd day journey starts by taking holy dip in the Gangā, follow up
holy dip in the Punyodyā (Ojhalā) river and paying visit to Dugdheshvara
Shiva. This day is specially prescribed for ancestral worship by offering
holy water, milk and ritualistic items (e.g. rice, grass, sesame, flowers,
etc.). This ritual is performed at the bank of Punyodyā.
The 3rd day begins by thanksgiving rituals at the temple of
Dugdheshvara, followed on visiting the shrine of Vishnu, Kāli, Vaitarini
Kunda, and here too performing ancestral rituals (VM, 50.1-17). At the
end of the day bathing in the Karnāvati river is to be performed (VM,
50.22-29).
On the 4th day visit to be paid to Siddheshvara, Hanumān, Sangamesha
and finally in the afternoon worshipping Asthabhujā and nearby shrines of
Bhairavas. The night stays to be passed on here.
On the last day (5th after paying visit to Asthabhujā, one has to go to
visit Rāmeshvara temple complex, Rāma Gāyā ghat, and finally to
Vindhyavāsini temple. The final rituals include fire-ritual (havana) and
feeding the Brahmins (VM, 50.37). If by faith, feeling and awakened mind
the pilgrimage is performed, the life will be different- relatively more
satisfactory and peaceful.
In practice, the above prescribed pilgrimage system is rarely followed.
More commonly the triangle-pilgrimage of the triad of goddess temples
has been popular among the devotees. The earliest historical reference to
this sacred tour appears in a journal entry written by the pilgrim Enugula
Rana Singh: Sacred Geography of Vindhyāchal 237
food like milk, water chestnut flour, etc. (sāttvic and vrati). Pearson (1996:
267) has lucidly described the main daily work of such devotees as: “their
vows (vrata) may consist of sleeping on the ground, not sleeping at all, or
only sleeping for three hours a day. Sexual continence is common. These
acts are often combined with daily recitations of the Durgāsaptashati.
Votaries either recite the text themselves in their own homes if they are
literate, or listen to it being recited at the temple”.
The entire area of 22 sq. km converges into religious landscape during
that period (cf. Table 9.4). The commercial areas, in fact, mostly
concerned with the requirements of the pilgrims and such visitors. The
dominance of peasantry culture is marked with surrounding agricultural
areas and garden and groves. In comparison to the historical past the area
under garden and groves are slowly being replaced by agricultural areas.
During the festivals the garden and groves areas are used by pilgrims as
resorts in nature, open space for cooking pilgrims’ food on open fire and
as parking space for vehicles.
The data (cf. Table 9.5) showing the dominance of females supports
the perception that Hindu women are “more religious” than their
counterpart as also remarked by Sopher (1968: 393) in Gujarat. Religious
activities are often an important part of life for the elderly, and this is
evident by the age-sex composition of devotees (cf. Singh 2002: 158). In
fact, according to Sopher (1968: 401), “Older persons have had more
opportunity to undertake pilgrimage than younger ones.” Well around 40
per cent of the pilgrims in both categories (male and female) are aged 40-
60. Primarily adolescent devotees accompany their parents and their
grandparents to support and help them, but also to enjoy the fun of leisure,
touring and pilgrimage. In the strictest sense, they do not follow all the
prescribed rules and ways of pilgrimage. Like in other parts of the nearby
areas the frequency of devotees between the age of 20-30 years has
declined during last decade mainly due to the increasing demands and
changing attitudes associated with the modern lifestyle in the city.
For a more detailed investigation, about half per cent (i.e. 460) of the
pilgrims surveyed for each group were interviewed in-depth. The results
are represented in Table 9.6. It is obvious from the data that the majority
of pilgrims were from a proximate area surrounding the city. They
belonged primarily to the eastern part of state of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar
(i.e., the Bhojpur culture region, which is identified by the Bhojpuri dialect
of Hindi). The pilgrims from Bengal form another important group. The
nearby city of Varanasi is perceived as a second Bengal, and the ancient
settlement of Bengali people has been preserved in specific neighbourhoods.
To this day, significant numbers of elderly Bengali women come to
Vindhyāchal to perform special pilgrimage (trikonayātrā). In addition, the
nearby state of Madhya Pradesh has direct social link with the Bhojpur
culture region through marriage tie and historic links. Thus, many devotees
from this state have multiple reasons for visiting Vindhyāchal and Varanasi.
240 9. Rana Singh
Table 9.8. Vindhyāchal Mela: Social/ Caste Pattern of Pilgrims, Oct. 2007
11. An Epilogue
The tradition of pilgrimage is born of the human quest for the sacred
through belief systems and desire to interact with the spirit of place
(inherent or manifested force, or both together). It is obvious from the
involvement and participation that religious activities (worship and rituals,
etc.) like at other holy places of India, are both matters for making merit
for the eternal life and means of gaining benefits in this worlds; frequently
the second perspective is more common (cf. Stirrat 1984: 208). The
possession of diverse meanings and ideas increases the magnetic force of
attracting pilgrims at the holy place. Remember that most of the visitors
Rana Singh: Sacred Geography of Vindhyāchal 243
are pilgrims, some are tourists and companions, however, and all of them
are a little of each.
At least three stages in the total pilgrimage be marked: (i) Separation
and preparation stage: to take a vow and prepare mentally and physically
for facing all the situations- a firm determination by thought and belief, (ii)
Liminal stage: to have experiences of the pilgrimage in quest of divine
interrelatedness and glimpse of revelation, and (iii) Reaggregation state:
returning home with some insights of transformation and will to persuade
others in continuing the tradition. This way pilgrimage converges to a
cycle rhythm. The ultimate cosmology of pilgrimage mandala, represents
the entire space-time universe containing circulation (circumambulation)
around the centre or following a circuit, convergence (merging) with the
centre, cyclic time (including birth and death), and complexity of action
(e.g. rituals). As primordial medium of birth and death, water is a major
feature of the pilgrimage landscapes.
The physical setting, the hilly territory, and divine connotation
mythologised in the historical past provided a base to portray the
landscape design emerging into a complex form of cosmic geometry. The
mythologies give a cosmogonic outline to understand the archetypal nature
of earth spirit ― a process making a place sacred. By pilgrimage one can
experience earth spirit, one can learn the way of healing the earth and
reciprocally to heal oneself, the deep values of understanding, and
ultimately knowing ourselves in the context of cosmological identity-
resulting into the evolution and existence of faithscape. The whole holy
territory of Vindhyāchal surrounding a main goddess shrine of the same
name converges into a sacredscape and delineated by the yantra, which
may be called as ‘landscape cosmogram’. The yantra in itself is a
cosmogram, and represents the components of ‘self-organising principle’
of universe where order and disorder, cosmos and chaos work together in
functioning of the cosmic geometry as exemplified by the study of
Vindhyāchal Kshetra.
-------
Note: This essay is primarily derived from Singh 1997, and 2009a.
12. References
a. Sanskrit Sources
AV Atharva-Veda Samhitā, trans. W.D. Whitney. Harvard Oriental Series,
vols. 7-8, 1905. 2nd Indian reprint. Motilal Banarasidass, Delhi, 1971.
BgP Srimad Bhāgavada Mahāpurāna, Sanskrit text and English trans. C.
L. Goswami, 2 vols. Gita Press, Gorakhpur, 1971.
244 9. Rana Singh
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. In the mystical tradition of India, the creation is considered as
the consciousness of intermingling of masculine and the feminine powers
of nature, in which the latter is considered as primordial and the basic
source, prakriti. The history of goddess worship goes back to 4th – 3rd
centuries BCE in Vārānasi as evident from the archaeological remains.
The images, forms, motives involved, varieties of rituals performed, role
of sacred place and sacred time, etc. are vividly described in the Purānic
mythologies that helped to maintain and continue the tradition of goddess
worship, reaching at its zenith by the turn of 12th century CE. According
to the Kāshi Khanda, dated ca. 13th century, there developed multiplicity
of layers, orderings, locations and hierophanies of goddesses, thus
reference of 324 forms are enumerated, among which today only 96 are
existent, and the rest merged into these form still invoked in rituals with a
different names. The notable categories include Yoginis, Durgās, Gauris,
Mātrikās, Chandis, Kshetra Devis, and folk goddesses. All these forms
converge into spatial patterning and cosmic ordering.
Keywords. Chandi, Devi, Divodāsa, Durgā, Gauri, Kāli, Kshetra Rakshitā,
Mahāvidyā, Mātrikā, Panchakroshi, Self-Organised system, Yogini.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
In the major eulogy Sanskrit text of Kāshi, the Kāshi Khanda (most of
whose parts are dated to the 14th century CE), the virtuous King Divodāsa
made Kāshi the capital of his kingdom after Shiva and all the Devas had
left the city (cf. KKh 43). Eventually Shiva and his wife Pārvati, who lived
in the mountains, no longer wanted to live away from their homely abode,
250 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
Kāshi. But it was difficult to attack such a flawless king. Shiva realised:
only when King Divodāsa would fall, he and other gods would get resort
in the ordered and holy city of Kāshi. So in order to create a crisis in the
city and dislodge Divodāsa from Kāshi Shiva sent sixty-four Yoginis
(“assisting goddesses”) who entered the city. Being thrilled by the cosmic
order and sacred power of the city, they settled down there. Similarly,
other gods, planetary divinities, goddesses, demi-gods, assisting divine
beings, and divine vehicle-animals in their different forms, all went there
and settled down. Only after a cycle of time was completed, Shiva and
Pārvati returned home on Vishnu’s appeal and took up residence again in
Kāshi. Eventually, Divodāsa himself worshipped Shiva by installing a
linga, which was later on known after him as Divodāseshvara. In the
course of time the varieties and different groups of goddesses and gods
came to support Shiva and to enjoy the sacred power of the city. The story
of King Divodāsa goes back to the Vedas and in the course of time was
modified in the purānic literature to fit the local traditions and the rulers.
In the Vedas a king named Divodāsa is mentioned in association with
Indra’s destruction of a hundred cities (cf. Rig Veda Samhitā 4.30.20) but
it is difficult to accept the same figure as king of Kāshi/Vārānasi (Eck
1982: 387). In the Mahābhārata (MhB 12.31.26-28) Divodāsa is described
who had fortified the city of Vārānasi and also taken away the sacrificial
fire of his enemies. This act resulted in conflict with Shiva who wished to
dwell there (MhB 12.97.20; see Shulman 1980: 77).
This myth tells us something about the historical growth of goddesses,
their male partners, and their multiplicity. It indicates that the Yoginis are
the oldest female divinities, originally non-Brahmanic folk deities, and
that the other deities came later in the process of cultural transformation
(cf. Dehijia 1986). Through a fusion of “high” and “low” and with the
supreme integration of prakriti (feminine power of nature) and purusha
(masculine power of nature), an equilibrium is maintained. Further, this
myth also talks about the processes and stages of non-equilibrium and
equilibrium and their final merger resulting in mutual convergence.
Metaphorically speaking, through the intense power of deeper
consciousness (ichchhā-shakti) ‘cosmic man’, purusha, generated the
energy of creation, prakriti, i.e. feminine power. The prakriti gets settled
down at different places, giving them strong energy: sthāna-shakti. The
inherent power possessed by these places is awakened by the power of
words and sounds, vāk-shakti, and by the power of rituals, kriyā-shakti.
The above powers (shaktis) of consciousness, sound, and actions together
took form at the power places; thus places turn into more powerful sacred
places, constituting a sacredscape. In the course of time the varieties,
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 251
nature goddess, Bhadrakāli who takes hold and controls the rest six points
(cf. Singh 2004: 59-60).
There are five main sacred territories, marked by the respective travel
routes, which symbolise the ecological cosmology and wholeness of
Kāshi. These routes also symbolise the five koshas (“sheaths”) and are
254 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
Table 10.1. Kāshi: Goddesses and associated deities on the Cosmic Circuit
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 255
been composed in the late 11th century. Out of 64 Yoginis’ shrines 60 are
assumed to be in the Rānāmahal at Chausatthi Ghāt (cf. KKh, 45.34-41;
also see Dehejia, 186: 215-216). Presently only 13 Yogini images exist
and are mostly attached to other temples (cf. Appendix 1, Group 3).
Fig. 10.4. Vārānasi The Yoginis.
which is of a pale hue, and highly burnished. She wears on her head a
large crown, surmounted with balls, like the coronets of the nobility”
(Sherring 1868: 90).
Fig.10.5. The Durgās.
the mythologies of the region. She is portrayed as three- eyed and eight-
armed.
5.7. Kālarātri. Having a dark complexion, dishevelled hairs, and a
rosary shining like an electric light, she rides a donkey. From her three
eyes electric currents flow and with her nasal breath come out flames of
fire. She provides fearlessness to devotees and grants a boon of
‘auspiciousness’ (shubhā); that is how she is also known as
“Shubhānkari”. She is one of Durgā’s energy manifestations (shakti) who
served as a messenger to tell the demon Durgama to desist. And finally she
burned the demon’s attendants with her breath and prepared Durgā for war
(Rodrigues 1993: 191).
5.8. Mahāgauri. She is described as an innocent girl of eight years and
her garments, ornaments and complexion—all are white. She rides a bull
and appears very quiet. When Gauri was in deep tapas her body got
covered with dust and mud, later on cleaned by Shiva who used holy water
of the Gangā river. Afterward she became more fair and beautiful—
Mahāgauri. Mahāgauri is recognised as Annapurnā; and She is Kāshi’s
queen, reigning alongside the king, Vishveshvara Shiva. She is also
eulogised as Bhavāni, the feminine energy of Lord Shiva (see KKh
61.123-38). The myth says that “For happiness, there is no home like
Kāshi; there is no father like Vishveshvara; there is no mother like
Bhavāni, destroyer of rebirth; and there is no household like the people of
Kāshi, who are Vishnu’s incarnate!” (Eck 1982: 160-161).
5.9. Siddhidātri. As giver (dātri) of eight-fold mystical powers
(siddhi) she is considered as the supreme. At one stage even Lord Shiva
worshipped her and she granted him all the mystical powers. That is how
half of Shiva’s body became female (androgynous), called Ardha-
nārishvara. Sages, gods, and noble souls always surround her— all
worshipping her to receive her kind blessing.
5.10. The Durgā Temple
The most popular shrine of Durgā in Vārānasi is at Durgākund (Figs.
10.6, and 10.7). The Durgā temple, as it appears today, represents several
successive phases of construction. By the Gahadavāla period, 11-12th
century CE, her popularity was well accepted by the society. A pious
widow queen of Nator in West Bengal, spent much time of her life in
Vārānasi after her husband’s death. She had contributed to the
construction of pilgrims’ rest houses along the Panchakroshi pilgrimage
route and also the minaret and the main walls of the Durgā temple in the
late 1760s (cf. Bhattacharyya, 1986:1-18). Formerly there was a small
shrine at this site, surrounded by shrub and woodlands. In 1755-1776 the
Natore queen Rāni Bhavāni has constructed the present structure. Since
264 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
then, it attracts a large mass of devout Hindus. The temple and the porch,
although united together, forming one edifice, are in reality two distinct
buildings. Rāni Bhavāni erected the temple, and a native officer in the
British administration built the porch, in around 1860 CE.
Fig. 10. 6. Vārānasi, Durgā Temple area (cf. Fig. 10.7).
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 265
The porch stands upon twelve elaborately carved pillars, the designs of
which are fantastic, yet not without taste. All the pillars are similarly
carved. Their base rests upon a floor raised four feet from the ground; and
they are surmounted by a dome, with cupolas at each corner, connected
together by a breastwork. The inner part of the dome is embellished with a
variety of colours; but the painting, in several places, has suffered injury.
From the centre of the dome a large bell is suspended, which, it is
reported, was presented to the temple, by a European Magistrate of
Mirzapore, about forty years ago.
Sherring (1868: 166) has further described the inner part of this
temple:
In the interior of the temple is a small shrine, the residence of the goddess,
painted over with bright glaring colours. The idol within is covered with
tinseled cloth, and has a face of brass, or of silver, or of other kind of
metal, according to the whim of the priests, who keep a stock of masks on
hand, which fit on the head of the image. It is also decorated with a
garland, rising like horns above its head; and with several necklaces of
gold coins hanging low down as far as the chest. A small lamp burns
inside the shrine; and immediately in front of the latter is a silver bath
sunk into the ground. Flowers are strewn about, the offerings of the
worshippers, and, being permitted to decay, emit an effluvium in the
highest degree pernicious to all who approach the place.
The Durgā and her temple are mentioned as the destination of worship
in several of the pilgrimages like Panchakroshi (the cosmic territory),
Nagar Pradakshinā (the sacred city), Avimukta (the Never Forsaken
territory), and Kedārakhanda (the sacred segment of the South denoting
the kingdom of Shiva). Pilgrims stop here and pay offerings and worship
the goddess and other associated deities (cf. Singh, 1994: 223). There are
twelve images of divinities attached to this sacred place. Durgā rests at the
centre of the main building and Lakshmi, Sarasvati, and Bhadrakāli are at
the corners in the inner pavilion. In the eastern part of the attached open
space in course of time, a shrine of Shitalā has been established. Durgā is
also assisted and supported by different forms of Shiva, Surya (Sun god)
and Ganesha (“elephant-headed god”, son of Shiva).
Routine pilgrimage to Durgā shrine is performed on every Tuesday. In
the month of Shrāvana (July-August), the great fair, melā, helds on every
Tuesday. This period of time commences the rainy season. The Kkh
(100.76) prescribes eighth and fourteenth day of each lunar month for
common worship of Durgās. Special pilgrimage to Durgā is performed
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 267
during the period of two seasons, viz. the spring, Chaitra (March-April;
light-half 1-9) and the autumn, Āshvina (September-October; light-half 1-
9), and later on added Shrāvana (July-August), every year. During
Shrāvana a religious fair is held and attended by enormous multitude of
people. Shops of sweets and ritual items decorate both sides of the road.
According to textual tradition Āshvina is the specially prescribed month
for worshipping Durgā (cf. Kkh, 72.82-86; KKT 121).
identity. Many of the low caste people have also formed their committees
and installed Durgā images (made of clay) as part of the celebration. This
is a sign of using the traditions and symbols of higher castes as a means
for upward mobility. With the increasing impact of this tendency, now the
people of higher castes and wealthier classes are improving and adding
more decorations to their Durgā-pavilions (pandāls), and they also make
the celebrations grandeur and bigger in terms of show, expenditure,
decorations, stage performance, and distribution of prasāda (offered-food
items to divinities).
is also perceived as the basic spirit among all the forms of Durgā (KKh
61.30); in the list of nine Durgās she represents Mahāgauri. Being the
consort of Vishvanātha, the patron deity of Kāshi, she is the city’s
governing goddess (Eck 1982: 160-161). The great festivals associated
with the goddess relate her to the production of cereal grains (anna).
Annakuta (the “Food Mountain”) festival falls on the first day of the
waxing fortnight of the autumn month of Kārttika (October-November).
During the second festival, celebrated in Mārgashirsha (November-
December), Annapurnā is decorated with green sprouts of paddy, and the
same is given as blessed-food (Eck 1982: 163-164).
Fig. 10.8. The Gauris
270 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
7. The Mātrikās
The reference to Mātrikās (“Mothers”) can be found as early as the
Mahābhārata (13.215.16, 18), however the best known mythological
account is given in the third episode of the Devi Māhātmya (DM 8.12-21)
which includes the story about killing the demon brothers Shumbha and
Nishumbha. The DM refers only to the Seven Mātrikās (Fig. 10.9; cf.
Appendix 1, Group 6).
Along with Kāli (also known as Chandikā), Shivaduti (another form)
and the Great Devi herself, the Mātrikās killed the demons (Kinsley 1986:
156). At the end the demons’ spirit came to Kāshi and worshipped Shiva
while installing the lingas, later known by their names as Sumbheshvara
and Nishumbheshvara. The malevolent nature of the Mātrikās seems clear
in several myths, and they are perceived as a dangerous group of
goddesses (Kinsley 1986: 159). They are always related to a male deity of
the Hindu pantheon, and took form to serve in the maintenance of the
cosmic equilibrium and order. The Vārāha Purāna, VrP (17.33-37)
describes the Mātrikās as symbols of human emotions: Brāhmi is the
symbol of pride, Māheshvari/ Mahendri of anger, Kaumari of attachment,
Vaishnavi of greed, Vārāhi of envy, Aindri of jealousy, Chamundā of
depravity, and Yogishvari/ Nārasimhi of lust (cf. Bhattacharyya 1974:
102). These Mātrikās are also described as the feminine deities together
with their male partners controlling the eight directions, sequentially from
right to left, i.e. from the east to north. In the Yogini Yantra, they are
represented as the controllers of the eight directions (cf. AgP, 146).
The Mātrikās are said to protect their devotees against all difficulties
and fulfil their wishes with motherly affection (cf. KKh 97. 45-46). The
KKh (83.33) eulogises their glories. Some of the Mātrikās, e.g. Narasimhi
is described separately (KKh 70.31). Vikata is also identified as Kātyāyini,
Panchamudrā (KKh 83.37-38; 97. 40-41), and Sankatā Devi (cf. Sukul
1977: 6-97). Sankatā (the “Goddess of Dangers”) vanquishes dangers for
her devotees. She is worshipped on Fridays (Eck 1982: 168-170). Worship
of Sankatā is very popular among women devotees. She is said to fulfil all
wishes of the devotees and provides security in difficult moments of life.
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 271
Moreover, one of them has got her name changed, like Shikhichandi is
known as Shikhikanthi (Fig. 10.10; cf. Appendix 1, Group 7). The
pilgrimage to Chandis is to be performed in the same period of time as the
Durgās.
The KKh (70.10-97) describes the list of Kshetra Devis that includes
all Durgās, Gauris (of course, sometimes variant names), and many other
274 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
of his body. There are two such images of Kāli, known as ‘Shava-Shivā
Kāli’: the image in Devanāthpurā shows Shiva lying on a corpse that lies
on a platform of five heads while Kāli is standing on Shiva’s body. There
are images of a jackal and a lion on either side of the platform. Another
Shava-Shivā Kāli image is close to the Prahalād Ghāt, where Kāli is in
standing pose. A similar image can also be seen in Manikarnikā Lane,
close to the cremation Ghāt.
10.2. Tārā. Generally Tārā is depicted as similar in appearance to
Kāli. Her complexion is black, she is pot-bellied, wears tiger skin, and has
four arms. She holds a chopper, a severed head, scissors, and makes the
sign of granting boon(s) with the fourth. Her left foot is set on a corpse
(sometimes on Shiva). She is often depicted as standing amidst a
cremation fire. There are four images of Tārā in Vārānasi city, viz. (i) in
Bengāli Tola, built by Rāni Bhavāni around 1776; (ii) close to the
stairways to Rājarajeshvari Ghāt, in the turret (marhi); (iii) close to the
gate of Kālikā, in Kālikā Gali; and (iv) in Brahmanāl, built by queen
Padmāvati in 1855.
10.3. Shodashi. Also known as Tripurasundari, she is a sixteen years
old young and beautiful girl. Her appearance is like youthful sun. She has
three eyes and four arms. She holds a noose, goad, bow, and arrows.
10.4. Bhuvaneshvari. She is said to be worshipped by the whole
world, is bright complexioned. She wears a moon as crown. Her breasts
are large. She smiles pleasantly and has three eyes. She is four armed and
holds a goad, noose, by the third one grants wish(es), and makes the sign
of assurance by the fourth.
10.5. Chinnamastā. She is shown standing in an aggressive posture
with one leg put forward. She holds a cleaver in one hand and her own
severed head in the other. She is naked and drinks the blood gushing
(through the middle stream) from her headless body. She is standing (or
sitting) on a copulating couple of Rati (‘goddess of sexual desire’) and
Kāma (‘god of sexual desire’). To her right is Varnini, possessed by the
quality of rajasa (passion), who holds a sword and a skull-cup. She
happily drinks blood gushing from the Devi’s severed neck. Dākini, who
is on the left side, also drinks blood from the Devi’s headless body. She
possesses by the quality of tamas (ignorance) and enjoys the dissolution of
the world.
10.6. Bhairavi. Her complexion is like the glow of thousands of rising
suns. She wears a garland of skulls and covers her body with skin of
demons she has killed. Her feet and breasts are blood smeared. She is four-
armed and holds a rosary, a book, makes the sign of fearlessness, and of
granting boons. She is three-eyed and sits on a lotus. The crown she wears
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 279
Shitalā is known as the one who wields influence over fever diseases,
both causing and curing them, especially smallpox. She is regarded as
terrible, though also seen as gracious and popularly called Mātā (“Mother”).
She is considered to be a representative of the village tradition of
goddesses, who after the passage of time was accepted in the written
tradition. Shitalā is the standard name for the smallpox goddess
worshipped throughout India under a variety of names, e.g. Mahāmai and
Mātā in north India, and Mariyammān and Ammā in south India (Bakker
1983: 12). Her shrines are often located at crossroads, at former cremation
grounds, or beside a nima tree (margosa, Azadirachta indica A. Juss). Her
vehicle is the donkey. The most prominent Shitalā temple is at the
Dashāshvamedha Ghāt, after which a portion of the Ghāt is called Shitalā
Ghāt. There is also another shrine of Shitalā near Gai Ghāt, further
downstream; here too the adjacent Ghāt is called Shitalā Ghāt. In fact,
originally this was the shrine of the “Snake Goddess”, Nageshvari Devi,
who in the course of time was named Shitalā (see Eck 1982: 231). The 9th
day of the waning fortnight (dark half) is the popular day for her worship.
Of course, people also visit her on a daily basis together with other deities.
Sankatā Devi, which means ‘Goddess of dangers,’ is perceived by the
city dwellers as the one who vanquishes dangers for her devotees. In the
purānic stories (e.g. KKh 83.33) she is described as one of the Mātrikās
who, together with the nine heavenly mother-goddesses, is said to have
been the foster mother of a young prince of Kāshi who was born under an
unlucky star and left to their care (cf. KKh, 10.100-101; 83.26). It is
believed that this goddess has no husband. Friday is the common day for
her worship (cf. Eck 1982: 169-170). The shrine of Sankatā Devi lies in
the temple compound of Siddheshvari, to which is attached an ancient well
known as Chandra Kupa (‘well of the moon’). On the day of full moon in
Chaitra (March-April), a large mass of devout Hindus pays visit to this
shrine.
According to a purānic story the Great Goddess, after killing the
demon, took rest and settled on the hill of the Vindhya. That is how she
was given the name of Vindhyavāsini (‘Dweller of the Vindhya
Mountains’). Her original shrine is on the right bank of the Gangā river in
the adjacent district of Mirzapur, about 83 km southeast of Vārānasi. In the
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 283
process of spatial manifestation her image has been installed at six places
in Vārānasi. Some scholars may prefer to call her a regional goddess (cf.
Kinsley 1987: 99). However, she is already included in the purānic list of
108 main goddesses, and the whole territory of Vindhyāchal together with
two other forms of goddesses, viz. Kāli and Astabhujā, is an example of
the complex network of a landscape cosmogram (cf. Singh 1997). Another
form of the goddess, named Kālarātri, who had killed the demon Durg and
got the epithet of “Durgā” after killing the demon’s army, visited
Vindhyavāsini and informed her about the misdeeds and sins committed
by the demon (KKh 71.61). This myth indicates that Vindhyavāsini was
one of the elder forms of the Goddess. The 3rd day of the waning fortnight
(dark-half) of Bhādrapada (August-September) is assumed to be her
birthday, therefore on this day special annual celebration and musical
performances take place at the shrine.
the goddess with strange but not unpleasing accompaniments. On the right
side of the entrance is a fine little bronze lion of Durgā, and on the left
Shiva’s bull. The quiet and cleanliness inside are a relief from the bustle,
sloppiness, and dirt, and the somewhat sordid atmosphere of more popular
Benares shrines...The temple itself is one of the most elegant in Benares. Its
cusped arches and graceful stone tracery betray the saracenic influence,
which is very prominent in modern Hindu art in northern India. The most
interesting details in the decoration is the row of inked figures under the
main cornice, carved with all the naiveté and feeling of early Italian
sculpture, though there is no reason to suppose that Benares sculptors
borrowed anything from European models.
curative and healing power for sick diseases; that is how its association
with Shitalā is justified. Similar cases may be cited all over the city in the
contemporary temple complexes.
thereby bringing the total number of panels to nine (cf. Table 10.5, cf. Fig.
10.17). All the panels bear Devanāgari labels identifying them as deorhis,
or upper parts of gates, and are named after flowers or different materials.
Table 10.5. Panel II (Lower part, representing dehudi (Gate), Fig. 10.17.
Se Dehudi Pavilion Direc- Ritu, season Sacred city
(deorhi)/ Gate tion
1. Sone ki gold East Shishir, cold: Haridvār
2. Pushparāj ki topaz SE Jan.-March
3. Chāndi ki silver South Hemant, winter: Ujjain
4. Kānse ki bronze SW Nov.-Jan.
5. Pital ki brass West Varshā, rain: Dvarakā
July-Sept.
6. Shishe ki glass NW Grishm, summer: Ayodhyā
May-July
7. Tāmbe ki copper NW Vasant, spring: Mathurā
Mar.-May
8. Panchadhātu ki five-metals North Sharad, autumn: Kānchi
9. Lohe ki iron NE Sep.-Nov.
II Panel
8
7
9
6
5 1
4 2
3
with figures, and topped by a sloping filed roof the mandapas are
separated by landscapes with flowing rivers, ponds, trees, and flowers.
Table 10. 6. Panel III (Middle most: Mandapas, cf. Fig. 10.18)
Se Mandapa Pavilion Panels
1. Chintamani Griha jewel- 3 panels: Rādhā Krishna, Eight
thought gods and their wives
2. Shringār Mandapa love River in the strip, and tress and
birds, Four-headed Devi on lotus
3. Mukti mandapa emancipation 3 panel grihas and one Devi in
golden crown
4. Jnāna Mandapa wisdom Nature and natural scenery
5. Ekanta Mandapa secluded
6. Bhagvati Upāsaka Goddess’
devotees
7. Bhagavati Citizen of
Lokavāsi Devi’s realm
III Panel 6
5 7
second tier, the panels are defined by encircling walls with gates on one or
more sides, with landscape scenes at top and bottom.
Table 10.7. Panel IV (Upper most part in elliptically shaped space, Fig. 10.
19).
Se Images Representative Jewel Dehudli name
1 Navaratna* Nine jewels* sonā gold
2 Mungā Coral pushparāj topaz
3 Pannā Emerald chāndi silver
4 Shrishthikumbhā creator’s realm kānsa bronze
5 Indra loka realm of rain-god pital brass
6 Vaidya loka medicinal realm shishā glass
7 Hirā ratna Diamond tāmbā copper
8 Gomeda ratna Hessonite garnet panchadhatu five-metals
9 Padma ratna lotus lohā iron
* Nine jewels: pearl, ruby, topaz, diamond, emerald, lapis, lazuli, coral, sapphire,
and garnet.
IV Panel
8
7
9
6
2
4
3
Fifth tier: The paintings here were devoted exclusively to scenes of nature
filled with trees and birds, ponds and houses, sages and saints. Sadly, they
can no longer be observed (cf. Dwivedi 2005: 101).
294 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
continuity. The common notion that ‘complex systems are dynamic and
always be in disequilibrium’ is in corroboration of the spatial patterning of
the goddess shrines. These systems are like a journey, not a destination,
and they may pursue a target with reference to faith and beliefs that
closely fits to this complex system.
16. Epilogue
The Goddess is viewed as omnipresent and omniscient in the
sacredscape of Vārānasi. The city-dwellers believe that “without the power
and energy of Shakti, Shiva … is a shava, a corpse. It is she who embodies
the vibrancy of both life and death” (Eck 1982: 174). Shiva and Shakti,
both are represented independently in 324 forms (i.e. = 108 x 3) whose
integration maintains the rhythm of the cosmic cycle in the universe. The
aim of getting in close contact with the divine spirit, the acceptance and
recognition of folk traditions by the Great tradition, and the respectability
of the feminine divine in the symbolic expression of identity, all these
factors have shaped the human quest to establish goddess-images in
various forms and at different places. Local mythologies (sthala-Purānas)
have been superimposed to justify their historicity and religious merit, and
after time they became part of the living tradition. In the chain of
‘existence-maintenance-continuity’ the worship of goddesses is flourishing.
The spatial patterning of goddess shrines can be explained in the
context of a fractal and self-organised system in which the complexity of
disequilibrium itself forms an order and finally results in equilibrium. This
system is always re-created and rejuvenated by the ritual processes and the
sacred performances by the devotees, while of course the earlier system
always persists and serves as base and pre-condition. The remark by
Cambel (1993: 4) that “complex systems are dynamic and not in
equilibrium; they are like a journey, not a destination, and they may pursue
a moving target” aptly describes this complex system of goddesses in
Vārānasi.
--------
Note: All the twenty figures are prepared and copyrighted © by Rana P.B. Singh.
17. References
Texts
AgP, Agni Purāna. Anandashrama Sanskrit Series No. 41. Anandashrama
Mudranalaya, Poona, 1957. (dated to ca 9th century CE).
DbP, Devi Bhāgavata Purāna. Pandita Pustakalaya, Banaras, 1969. (d. ca.
7th cen. CE).
DM, Devi Māhātmya. Transl. & ed. by V.S. Agrawala. All-India Kāshiraj
Trust, Varanasi, 1963. [Text with English].(d. ca 7th cent.CE)
KKh, Kāshikhanda (of Skanda Purāna). Gurumandala Granthamalaya
No.XX vol.IV, Calcutta, 1961. (d. ca 13th century CE; some portions
dated late 11th century CE ).
298 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
Secondary Literature
Bak, Per 1996. How Nature Works. The Science of Self-Organized
Criticality. Copernicus, an imprint of Springer-Verlag, New York
Bhattacharyya, Narendra Nath 1974. History of Sakta Religion.
Munshiram Manoharlal, New Delhi.
Cambel, A. B. 1993. Applied Chaos Theory: A Paradigm for Complexity.
Academic Press, Boston.
Coburn, Thomas B. 1988. Devi Māhātmya. Motilal Banarasidass Publ.,
Delhi.
Dehijia, Vidya 1986. Yogini Cult and Temples. A Tāntrika Tradition.
National Museum, New Delhi.
Eck, Diana L. 1982. Banāras. City of Light. Alfred Knopf, Inc., New
York.
Dwivedi, Prem Shankar 1990. Wall Paintings of Mahāmāyā Temple in
Vārānasi. Kala Prakashan, Vārānasi.
―. 2005. The Mahāmāyā Temple Murals; in, Michell, George and Singh,
Rana P.B. (eds.) Banaras, the City Revealed. Marg Publs., Mumbai:
98-105.
Eliade, Mircea 1959. The Sacred and the Profane. Princeton University
Press, Princeton.
―. 1958. Patterns in Comparative Religion. Sheed & Ward, London.
Hindu Goddesses in Kashi: Spatial Patterns and Orders 299
---------------------------------------
Dr. Rana P.B. Singh
Professor of Cultural Geography & Heritage Studies,
Banaras Hindu University, Faculty of Science
New F - 7 Jodhpur Colony, Varanasi, UP 221005. INDIA.
Email: [email protected]
§ Rana is researching in the fields of heritage planning, pilgrimages and settlement
systems in Varanasi region since last three decades as promoter, collaborator and
organiser. On these topics he lectured at centres in all parts of the world. His
publications include over 180 papers and 35 books on these subjects, including
Uprooting Geographic Thoughts in India (CSP 2009), Geographical Thoughts in
India: Snapshots and Vision for the 21st Century (CSP 2009), Cosmic Order &
Cultural Astronomy (CSP 2009), Banāras, Making of India’s Heritage City (CSP
2009), and Sacred Geography of Goddesses in South Asia (CSP 2010).
APPENDIX 1.
Vārānasi / Kāshi: The Goddesses (Devis)
N Se. No. in List, & Place Location, House Latitude, Longitude
o. Name Code number N° , E°
GROUP 1. The Shaktis on the Cosmic Circuit (96) ,
< Ref. Kkh, 72. 3-13. Only 12 exist, the rest lost >
1 2. Tārā At steps of the Lalitā 25 17.607 83 00.771
Ghāt, D 1 / 58
2 4. Trayalokya- Shitalā Ghāt, Pitāma- 25 18.736 83 00.918
sundari heshvara, CK 60/ 92
3 7. Bhimā Panchagangā, near 25 18.926 83 01.106
Bālā-ji, K 22 / 24
4 8. Tripurabhairavi Tripurabhairavi, Man 25 18.515 83 00.641
Mandir, D 5 / 24
5 9. Kāmakshā Kamachha, Bhelupur, 25 18.216 82 59.556
B 21 / 123
6 42. Pāshpānini Pashpāni Vinayak –II 25 19.967 82 58.421
T., Sadar Bazaar
7 69. Amritā In Nilakantha T., CK 25 18.698 83 00.750
33 / 28
8 78. Balā Vriddhakāla, in 25 19.264 83 00.954
Satishvara T, K 46 / 32
9 86. Chhinnamastā Teliana, Jangambari, D 25 18.262 83 00.289
35 / 221 A
10 89. Moksha- Kākāram Gali, 25 18.714 83 00.883
lakshmi Brahmanāl, CK 8 / 11
11 94. Ashvarudhā Vāgishvari Devi, 25 19.634 83 00.790
Jaitpurā, J 6 / 33
12 96. Jvālāmukhi Jalpā Devi, Golā Gali, 25 19.082 83 00.487
CK 54 / 134
GROUP 2. Kshetra ( Rakshitā ) Devis (9) , Ref. Kkh, 72. 90-91.
< Only 6 exist, the rest lost >.
1 3. Ayutabhujā Rāmbagh, Chitaipur, 25 16.466 82 58.556
on Panchakroshi road
2 4. Ashvarudhā Vāgishvari Devi, 25 19.634 83 00.790
Jaitpurā, J 6 / 33
3 5. Gajāsyā Gajananā, Rānā 25 18.295 83 00.520
Mahal, D 21 / 22
4 6. Tvaritā / Ravindrapuri, near 25 17.708 83 00.067
(Chatpati) Lane 3 , house A 33
5 8. Vishvā / Dharmakupa, 25 18.615 83 00.696
Vishvabhujā Vishālākshi, D 2 / 15
302 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
GROUP 8. The Kshetra Devis (41), Ref. Kkh, 70. 10–97. Out of 41, five are
lost: no. 9, 17, 29, 33, 35, <detailed out earlier in the sequence, cf. Table 10.2>
GROUP 9. The Mahāvidyās (13) , Ref. Various Tantra and Agama texts.
1 Kāli Kāli, Kālika Gali, 25 18.582 83 00.627
D 8 / 17
2 Tārā Lalitā Ghāt, on steps, 25 18.607 83 00.771
in Madhi, D 1 / 58
3 Tripurasundari / c. Pitāmaheshvara T., 25 18.736 83 00.918
Trilokyasundari / Siddheshvari, in
Shodashi Madhi, CK 60 / 92
4 Bhuvaneshvari Patni Tola, Agnishvara 25 18.839 83 00.890
T., CK 2 / 1
5 Chhinnamastā Telianā, Jangambāri, 25 18.262 83 00.289
D 35 / 221 A
6 Bhairavi Tripurabhairavi, Man 25 18.515 83 00.641
Mandir, D 5 / 24
7 Dhumāvati Dhupachandi, Nāti 25 19.750 83 00.085
Emli, J 12 / 134
8 Baglāmukhi/ Siddheshvari, CK 2 / 25 18.738 83 00.911
Pitāmbarā Devi 38
9 Kamalā/ Lakshmi Kund, D 52 / 25 18.620 83 00.022
Mahālakshmi 40
10 Rājarājeshvari Siddhagiri Math, 25 18.567 83 00.800
Lalitā Ghāt, D 1 / 58
11 Lalitā Lalitā Ghāt, in Madhi, 25 18.547 83 00.816
D 1 / 67
12 Jvālāmukhi Gola Gali, Jalpa Devi, 25 19.082 83 00.487
CK 54 / 134
GROUP 10. Goddesses on the Panchakroshi Route (12)
1 3. Lalitā Devi Lalitā Ghāt, in Madhi, 25 18.547 83 00.816
CK 1 / 67
2 10. Bandi Devi Near Dashāshvamedh 25 18.385 83 00.565
Ghāt D17 / 100
3 19. Durgā Devi Durgā Kund, B 27 / 1 25 17.321 82 59.954
4 29. Chamundā Village Avare 25 14.683 82 55.753
5 33. Vikataksha Also as Vikatā Durgā, 25 14.919 82 54.720
Durgā Village Delhanā
6 37. Vimala Durgā Village Deurā 25 15.067 82 53.335
7 41. Ganapriyā Village Gaurā 25 15.192 82 53.006
8 49. Bhimachandi Village Bhimachandi 25 15.105 82 50.905
Devi
9 56. Bhairavi Devi Village Harsons 25 18.323 82 50.629
306 10. Rana Singh, Ravi Singh and Pravin Rana
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. The yātrā, which takes one day to complete, is organised
generally once a year by the “Kāshi Pradakshinā Darshana Yātrā Samiti”.
It covers the Banāras sites – small shrines as well as fairly large temples –
connected with the individual goddesses of the Dashamahāvidyās. This
group of devis, namely Kāli, Tārā, Tripurasundari, Bhuvaneshvari,
Chhinnamastā, Tripurābhairavi, Dhumāvati, Bagalāmukhi, Mātangi and
Kamalā, figures prominently in several Tantra-related texts, but is seldom
mentioned in Purānic literature. The individual goddesses differ in many
aspects – their mythology, iconography and, of course, their mantras,
yantras and entire ritual. Each one is believed to own and grant different
powers or abilities, siddhis. Today, Banāras shows the highest
concentration of shrines to individual Mahāvidyās in the pan-Hindu
context. This surely is one important reason for the emergence of a
“Mahāvidyā pilgrimage” ‒ a yātrā unheard of in classical literature and
unique in contemporary Hinduism.
Keywords. Mahāvidyās Yātrā, Banāras, Hinduism, pilgrimage, Purānas,
Dhumāvati.
Note: diacritic marks are used only for long ‘a’ as ā, and not used for other words.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
aspects varies – the latter predominating clearly. What unites them all, for
instance, is their association with strong magical powers, siddhi, which
they are believed to pass on to their devotees. In later developments, in
specific contexts and texts, all are also said to maintain the cosmic order
(Kinsley 1998: 18-22) and are affiliated to the concept of Durgā-Mahādevi
(Zeiler 2010, f.c.). Only very seldom the Mahāvidyā concept is connected
to a Vaishnava background. One of this rare mentions occurs in the 9th to
12th century Pāncharātra text Lakshmitantra – Mahāvidyā is depicted here
as emanation of Mahālakshmi (Bhattacharyya 1999: 60). The ten
Mahāvidyās were also related to the ten Avatāras of Vishnu – one
Mahāvidyā was simply identified with one Avatāra respectively. Such lists
are found for instance in the Todalatantra (Goudriaan and Gupta 1981:
81), Mundamālatantra (Kinsley 1998: 20) or Guhyātiguhyatantra (Sircar
1973: 48 and Bhattacharyya 1999: 242). But typically the goddesses are
connected with Shiva. They are then consistently described as independent
wives; they dominate, control and at times even threaten Shiva. In spite of
their marked individuality, the Dashamahāvidyās then are all related to a
number of items and subjects (Zeiler 2011 f.c., chapter 2).
early 9th century C.E. Prapancha is the fivefold nature forming creation:
ether, fire, water, wind and earth. Bhuvaneshvari like Shrividyā also
appears as an attractive figure nourishing the world. She is worshipped
especially for material welfare, but to her devotees may also grant the
special magical power she possesses: to bind and control others.
Chhinnamastā had no cult of her own prior to the Mahāvidyās, but,
like Tārā, figures in Tāntric Buddhism. Her iconography presents her as
surely the most terrifying member of the group. From the severed throat of
her self-decapitated body flow three streams of blood, nourishing her own
severed head, which she holds in her hand, and the Yogini’s Dakini and
Varnini accompanying her. The naked goddess, dressed only in a garland
of skulls, stands on the couple Rati and Kāma engaged in “reversed”
sexual intercourse (Rati sitting or lying on top). The symbolic contents of
this unique iconography are interpreted as mainly referring to spiritual
freedom (her nakedness) and the combination of creation and destruction
(sexual love next to skulls) (Benard 2000: 92-111; Satpathy, 1991: 145-
147 and Satpathy, 1992: 61). In particular, she leads her devotee on the
path of liberation. Also Tripurabhairavi, one of many forms of Bhairavi,
presents benign and fearful aspects side by side. This is apparent, for
instance, in the attributes she holds in her four hands, which only at first
seem contradictory: noose, goad, manuscript and rosary. Dhumāvati, the
only widow goddess in the Hindu pantheon, is the mistress of poverty and
misfortune. Permanently angry, unsatisfied and resentful, she symbolically
lives in quarrel and strife and in ruined and deserted places. Accompanied
by her vāhana, the crow, as an outsider beyond any social bonds, she sits
on a cart without draught animals and literally rides to nowhere. Her
devotees typically ask for a merciless destroying of their enemies.
Bagalāmukhi, also called Pitāmbarā, is invoked mainly to kill enemies
or to bring them under control. Her iconography explains how: pulling out
the tongue of her demon enemy she controls him by controlling his
speech. She hinders him from speaking and threatens him with a mace.
Mātangi, who has many sub-forms, also grants the siddhi to control
enemies. Furthermore, she is characterized in mythology as well as in
living cult by a special attitude toward pollution and the lower castes, both
of which she is closely connected to (Kinsley 1998: 209-222). Kamalā like
Lakshmi endows her worshipper with material riches and enjoyments. The
main iconographical attributes – lotus, elephant and heavy jewellery –
accompany both goddesses alike. But several of Kamalā’s epithets also
present a martial side, which is completely absent in the case of Lakshmi
(Kinsley 1998: 228-232). Kamalā also nearly looses her Vaishnava
relationships. Even though such lists attempt to correspond the
312 11. Xenia Zeiler
Researcher
confirmed
Kshatriya
Brāhmin
pilgrims
Vaishya
Nishada
Foreign
Yādava
yātris,
Total
Date
Not
26.02. 2000 16 - 7 2 1 5 17 48
02.09. 2001 6 - 7 4 1 - 8 26
10.11. 2002 6 2 6 3 - 2 3 22
11.05. 2003 7 1 9 - - 2 3 22
Vishvanātha. He is not only the Lord of Kāshi and central point of most of
the town’s pilgrimages, he is also so closely associated with his spouse
Annapurnā that worshipping her may remain ineffective without taking his
darshana as well.
Table 11.2. Official printed list of the yātrā route since 2002, as handed
out to all participants.
Sacred Site Location
1) Mā Kamalā (Lakshmi) Devi D. 50/40 Lakshmi Kunda
1a) Kāli Devi Kālikā Gali, Dashāshvamedha, D 8 / 17
2) Mā Dhumāvati 12/34 Dhupchandi, Nāti Imli
(Dhupachandi) Devi
2a) Narasimha Tilā
3) Mā Jvālāmukhi Golā Dinānātha, Jalpādevi C.K. 64/27
3a) Kāshi Devi Saptasagar, Kashipurā, Jawāhar Katrā
3b) Kālabhairava Kāla Bhairava, K 32 / 22
4) Mā Bhuvaneshvari Devi C.K. 1/21 Patnitolā in the temple of Shri
Agnishvara Mahādeva
4a) Siddheshvari Devi Siddheshvari Temple, CK 7 / 124
4b) Chandrakupa in Siddheshvari Temple, CK 7 / 124
4c) Sankatā Devi Sankatā Ghat, CK 7 / 159
5) Mā Tripurasundari Devi C.K. 7/124 Siddheshvari (next to
Sankatā-ji)
6) Mā Bagalāmukhi rising staircase at the first street-corner
(Pitāmbarā) Devi from Sankatā, C.K. 2/38
7) Mā Tārā Devi Lalitāghāt, in a small temple D. 1/58
8) Mā Rājarājeshvari Devi Rājarājeshvara Math, Lalitā Ghāt D. 2/58
9) Mā Lalitā Devi Lalitā Ghāt, in a small temple at the top
of the stairs, D. 1/67
10) Mā Chhinnamastā Devi Teliyānā, Jangamabādi D. 35/221-e
11) Mā Tripurābhairavi Tripurābhairavi Gali, 5/23
12) Mā Kālikā Devi Kālikā Gali, D. 8/17
13) Mā Annapurnā Devi the temple of Annapurnā
13a) Vishvanātha Vishvanātha Temple, CK 35 / 19
13b) Jnānavāpikunda Jnānavāpi Kupa in the Mandapa
[Italics mark the main additional sites visited, which are not directly connected to
the Dashamahāvidyās and did not appear in the printed list].
visited in the town, and forms the central point of most of it’s pilgrimages
– many start or end here. The god is closely associated with his spouse
Annapurnā. Mythology and iconography in a similar matter state even
Shiva’s dependence on her, when it comes to nourishment. For instance
the market around both temples still today nearly overflows with
depictions (modern colour-prints, but also carefully crafted batiks or brass
images etc.) showing Vishvanātha reaching out his begging-bowl to her.
The goddess often stands in an elevated position, holding a pot with food
from which she fills her husbands bowl with a large spoon. So close is the
interaction of both that worshipping her, in the belief of many devotees,
remains incomplete or even ineffective without paying homage to
Vishvanātha as well.
The yātrā finally comes to an end in the neighbouring Jnānavāpi-
mandapa, the area around the well Jnānavāpikunda. According to popular
belief the linga Vishvanātha was hidden in this well after the destruction
of the temple in 1669 and later was reinstalled in the new temple built by
Āhalyābāi in 1777. In the opinion of some, though, the original linga still
resides in the Jnānavāpikunda. The area is preferred by tradition for the
removal of the samkalpa. The group, after attending this last joint ritual
marking the end of each successful pilgrimage, is discharged.
The vast majority of devotees and yātris however rarely know about
the Mahāvidyā concept, the respective goddess affiliation and far less
about details from the textual background. They clearly imagine the
goddesses as emanations of Mahādevi (except of course Lakshmi, who has
Vaishnava relations) and worship them without exception with the blend
of Purānic and Folk elements common to the city’s Devi-temples.
Interesting to note is which goddesses kept certain continuity. If we
exclude Rājarājeshvari, who is rather an institution-bound than a public
deity in her temple in Banāras and is worshipped accordingly, we find
similarities for both remaining devis, Pitāmbarā and Dhumāvati. They both
are Mahāvidyās who in textual sources almost never figure outside the
group. Both show a clearly defined mythology which de facto restricts
them to one single concept and function (the demon-fighter Bagalāmukhi
controls enemies, the widow Dhumāvati harms or destroys them). And
finally both are mainly invoked for their effective magical powers – for the
siddhi of controlling respectively harming or killing enemies. As these two
goddesses have no other than a Mahāvidyā background, and in it a
particularly marked concept and function, it seems consistent that
especially they were able to keep elements of their origin throughout their
development. The other Mahāvidyās in fact less needed such a continuity
in order to survive beyond a Tāntric context. As they possess broader
concepts per se they could emphasize alternative aspects already included
or implied in the textual evidence – aspects more “appropriate” to a
Purānic context.
6. References
Benard, Elisabeth Anne 2000. Chhinnamastā. The Aweful Buddhist and
Hindu Tāntric Goddess. Motilal Banarsidass, Delhi.
Bhattacharyya, N. N. 1999. History of the Tāntric Religion. Manohar, New
Delhi. 3rd Ed.
Chalier-Visuvalingam, Elizabeth 1993. Bhairava, Kotwāla of Vārānasi; in,
Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.) Banāras (Vārānasi). Cosmic Order, Sacred
City, Hindu Traditions. Tara Book Agency, Varanasi: 163-177.
Eck, Diana L. 1989. Banāras. Stadt des Lichts. Insel Verlag, Frankfurt am
Main. Originally published in English: 1982, Banaras, City of Light.
Alfred Knopf, New York.
Gengnagel, Jörg 2005. Kāshikhandokta: On Texts and Processions in
Vārānasi; in, Gengnagel, Jörg; Hüsken, Ute and Raman, Srilata (eds.)
Words and Deeds. Hindu and Buddhist Rituals in South Asia. Ethno-
Contemporary Pilgrimages, Dashamahāvidyas 327
Singh, Ravi S. and Singh, Rana P.B. 2006. Goddesses in Kāshi (Vārānasi).
Spatial Patterns and Symbolic Orders; in, Gaenszle, Martin and
Gengnagel, Jörg (eds.) Visualizing Space in Banaras. Images, Maps,
and the Practice of Representation. Ethno-Indology, Heidelberg
Studies in South Asian Rituals, Vol. 4. Harrassowitz, Wiesbaden: 41-
68.
Sinha, Surajit and Saraswati, Baidyanath 1978. Ascetics of Kashi.
Bhargava Bhushan Press, Varanasi.
Sircar, D. C. 1973. The Shākta Pithas. Motilal Banarsidass, Delhi.
Shivapurānam, 1998. (Ed.) Pt. Rāmateja Pāndeya. Chaukhambhā
Vidyābhavan, Vārānasi.
Sukul, Kuber Nāth 1977. Vārānasi Vaibhava. Bihār Rāstrabhāsā Parisad,
Patnā.
―. 1974. Vārānasi Down the Ages. Bhargava Bhushan Press, Varanasi.
Wilke, Annette 2006. The Banārsi Navadurgā Cycle and its Spatial
Orientation; in, Gaenszle, Martin and Gengnagel, Jörg (eds.)
Visualizing Space in Banaras. Images, Maps, and the Practice of
Representation. Ethno-Indology, Heidelberg Studies in South Asian
Rituals, Vol. 4. Harrassowitz, Wiesbaden: 69-94.
Yashpāl, Yogirāj ‘Bhārati’ 1998. Dasha Mahāvidyā Tantrasāra. Randhir
Prakāshan, Haridvār.
Zeiler, Xenia 2010 (f.c.). Transformations in the textual tradition of
Dhumāvati. Changes in reception of the Tāntric Mahāvidyā-Goddess
in ritual, function, iconography and mythology; in, Transformations
and Transfer of Tantra in Asia and Beyond. Religion and Society.
Walther de Gruyter, Berlin/New York.
―. 2011 (f.c.). Die Göttin Dhumāvati. Vom tantrischen Ursprung zur
Gottheit eines Stadtviertels in Benares.
---------------------------------------------
Dr. Xenia Zeiler
Lecturer for South Asian Religions, Institute of Religious Studies,
University of Bremen, Badgasteiner Str. 1, 28359 Bremen. GERMANY.
Email: [email protected]
§ She has studied South Asian History and Society (specialized on Religion),
Islamic Studies (specialized on South and Central Asia) and International Cultural
Processes in Berlin and New Delhi. Her research methodically focuses on Ethno-
Indology – a combination of fieldwork and textual studies, comparing text and
context. For her Master-Thesis (‘Ritual in the temple of Vireshvara as in the
Shivapurāna’) as well as for her PhD (‘Goddess Dhumāvati’) she did year-long
fieldwork in Banaras. Earlier she taught South Asian Religion, mainly Hinduism,
at Humboldt-University Berlin.
12
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. This essay discusses the temple to the Hindu Great Goddess
(Mahādevi, Devi) Durgā in the city of Varanasi. It provides information on
the spatial layout of the temple, its environs, and its structural and
symbolic attributes. It is also an examination of the worship cycles that
occur at the temple through the course of a year, and contextualizes the
roles and functions of the Mahādevi’s abode within Hinduism’s most holy
city. The temple complex itself is regarded as a permanent abode of the
Devi. It also houses her three major component forms, namely, Sarasvati,
Lakshmi, and Kāli, and the associated deities, Shiva and Ganesha.
Although the present structure derives from the 18th century, it
demonstrates a continuity of tradition going back centuries earlier. The
paper suggests that Durgā’s presence resonates beyond the confines of her
temple image, at times encompassing the whole of the sacred space of the
Varanasi mandala.
Keywords. Kāshi Mandala, Durgā-Ji, Kushmānda, Durgā Kund,
construction, layout, site, spatial structure, image, history, sanctity.
Note: diacritic marks are used only for long ‘a’ as ā, and not used for other words.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Introduction
The Durgā temple (mandir) stands on Durgā Kund Road (cf. Figs.
12.1 and 12.2) aptly named after the temple’s landmark water tank
(kunda), a one acre large, square structure, originally a natural pond, now
shaped and finished with stone walls. When approaching the temple from
the north, via Durgā Kund Road, the view is striking because the kunda’s
waters reflect the mandir’s tall red spire (shikhara) adorned with its
copper flag, and the orderly array of pillars of the pilgrims’ rest quarters.
330 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
Upon entering the temple’s outer courtyard, which is paved with marble
slabs, one’s eyes may be drawn to a splatter of fresh blood and flower
petals on a small, rectangular, earthen, and unpaved section of the
courtyard floor. The blood and flowers tell of a recently performed bali
(blood sacrifice) to the Great Goddess Durgā, to whom this temple is
dedicated.
Devotees hurry in and out, touching the floor of the doorway before
entering the temple’s inner courtyard, and then ring one of the hanging
bronze bells to announce their presence to the Goddess. They
circumambulate the main structure, often touching an eight-petalled lotus
carved into the temple’s exterior stonework. After worship at various
peripheral shrines, devotees mount the stairs of the porch (mandapa),
stand amidst its ornately sculpted pillars, and pay obeisance to Mā
(Mother) Durgā. The Devi (Goddess), garlanded and clad in a lustrous
sari, gazes out from behind a golden mask, for this is the face she presents
to her devotees at the Durgā Kund temple.
Writing in 1868, the Reverend M. A. Sherring called the Durgā Mandir
“one of the popular and most frequented temples in Benares.” He observed
that “no Hindu in the neighbourhood, of any pretensions to earnestness in
his religion, neglects to visit the temple occasionally. Pilgrims, also, from
a distance find their way to it” (1868: 158). Sherring’s observations are
still quite applicable today, although the temple services the needs of a
much larger population within its nebulous catchment area. What follows
is a holistic examination of this renowned temple to the Great Goddess
Durgā, integrating a treatment of its structural and symbolic attributes, and
its myths and history, with its lived reality as a spiritual focal point for
both religious specialists and lay devotees. The exploration leads me to
suggest that the Durgā Kund temple, or Durgā-ji, as she is more often
called, is more than just a temple that houses an image of the Great
Goddess. It is even more than an abode of the Goddess, as this paper’s title
suggests. Durgā-ji, I offer, is a manifest embodiment of the Devi herself.
covered porch (mandapa) fashioned with ornate stone pillars, the temple
may be classified as belonging to the northern or nagara style of
architecture.
Fig, 12.1. Durgākund and environs (courtesy of Singh, Rana P.B. 2010).
Durga, Sacred abode of Great Goddesses in Varanasi 333
Fig. 12.2. Durgā Temple complex: Sacred Sites and Images (courtesy of
Singh, Rana P.B. 2010).
334 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
In the marble-paved outer courtyard one finds the sacrificial pit and the
naubhat khānā, a pavilion that once housed an enormous kettledrum,
which was beaten three times daily in honour of Durgā. A Rādhā-Krishna
shrine overlooks the kunda, and two Gahadavāla-styled stone temples
flank the main entrance to Durgā-ji’s inner courtyard. A large stone pillar,
said to be a gift from the King of Nepal, is set off to the south of the outer
courtyard. It stands about twenty feet high, and is topped with a sculpted
stone lion passant.
The sacrificial pit is an unpaved rectangular area, some 4 by 5 feet,
located in the direct line of sight of the Devi in the inner sanctum. At one
end of the rectangle there is a metal yoke into which the necks of
sacrificial goats are secured. In front of the pit, also facing the main
entrance and the Devi in the sanctum is a small stone pillar, about two feet
high. A concave depression atop the pillar serves as a cup, which pools
with the blood of the severed heads of sacrificial offerings placed there.
Blood sacrifice is one of the distinctive features of Durgā-ji, since it is
regarded as the only temple, among all in Banaras, where such offerings
are permitted. It is mostly goats that are offered, and these too only on
occasion, since the practice of blood sacrifice has been on the decline in
Banaras. Nowadays, many sacrificial goats merely have an ear nicked with
a knife to release some blood, and are then returned to the patron of the
sacrifice. A notable and well-known legend, however, tells of a human
sacrifice at the temple. This was the devout temple priest (pujāri)
Kukkuteshvara Mahādeva, sacrificed by bandits (dacoit) who had
promised the Devi a human victim. After obtaining success in their
enterprise, they could not find a suitably pure offering until they chanced
upon the priest. He is commemorated in the form of a Shiva linga in a
temple located outside the southern exit of the temple’s inner courtyard.
The inner courtyard is a paved marble circumambulatory around the
temple. This courtyard is surrounded by a raised, roofed quadrangular
platform, which houses rooms for pujāris and workers, shrines, and pillar-
supported ceilings over open spaces to shelter visitors. Upon entering the
inner courtyard, one is flanked by two stone lions, said to have been
donated by a Nepalese king. To the immediate left of the entrance is a
small shrine housing a vermillion Ganesha, and a marble, serpent deity
called Sheshnāga (now identified with Shiva). A small linga and Nandi
(Shiva’s bull mount) are placed in front. Further along on the western side
are stairs leading to the terrace, which serves as an upper circumam-
bulatory around the temple’s quadrangle. The western side of the terrace is
roofed, creating a third terrace. On the northern side of the inner courtyard,
a flight of stairs leads downwards to Durgā Kund. The entire northern side
Durga, Sacred abode of Great Goddesses in Varanasi 335
of the courtyard wall, which opens to the kunda, contains a pillared lower
level that serves as a resting place for pilgrims.
To the immediate right of the main western entrance is an enormous
brass bell, suspended with a few other bells from wooden scaffolding.
Further to the right, near the southwest corner one finds the fire-oblation
pit (havan kunda). It is a hub of activity on Tuesdays, when many of the
visiting worshippers consult healers (ojhā) who utilize it in their rites. A
metal grating in the ceiling above it vents the sanctified smoke to the
upper circumambulatory and terraces.
The extreme southwest corner room is an important shrine containing
images of Bhadrakāli, Chanda Bhairava, and a small, visually obscured
squatting image, called a Kāli. A newer, multi-armed Durgā Simhavāhini
(Lion Rider) image is also placed there. Always enveloped in shadows,
since it gets little natural light, the room is pierced on its eastern and
northern sides by barred, wrought-iron doors. All the images face east, and
devotees mostly worship from outside the room, through the barred doors.
Bhairava (The Terrifying One) is a fearsome form of Shiva, and acts as a
protector of Kāshi (Banāras). This stone image (murti) portrays him
astride his dog mount. Chanda Bhairava (Fierce Bhairava) is one of
Kāshi’s twelve guardian Bhairavas. A king of Nepal installed the
Bhadrakāli at Durgā-ji. He also donated a large brass bell and its
beautifully sculpted stone scaffold, which is situated beside the Bhadrakāli
shrine. The Bhadrakāli image is always covered with cloth and is thus
known through her bronze mask with its lolling red tongue. Despite her
name, Bhadrakāli (Auspicious/Gentle Kāli) is a fierce form of the deity.
The small, stone, “Tāntric Kāli” was placed there by one of the members
of the royal family of Vijayanagar, from where it was apparently brought.
It is possibly an image of great antiquity, whose form is somewhat
obscured by wear and damage. It is a four or six-armed nude female
figure with benevolent features, wearing a garland of skulls and squatting
atop a supine male. Two of the devi’s arms grip what appears to be his
erect penis or intestines, which extends straight upwards towards her
mouth. The top of the goddess’s head is rounded and so etched that it
conveys a phallic appearance. Sherring referred to the image as “an
immodest figure of a woman in bass-relief (sic)” (1868: 164). The Tantric
appeal of this entire corner shrine is evident. The periodic patronage by
members of the Nepali royal family, who on occasion in the 1800s took
refuge in Banaras, further testifies to the temple’s Tantric features, which
are mostly underplayed by the owners and priests.
Near the southeast corner of the inner courtyard, inset into the southern
wall, one finds cloth-covered images of the goddesses Lakshmi and
336 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
Sarasvati who present bronze masked faces to devotees. Just beside this
shrine is the southern entrance/exit of the temple, which is flanked by two
large paintings of Durgā on the outer wall.
emulate the design of the main shikhara. The pillars combine square and
circular elements in their design. Sporting numerous decorative floral
motifs, they display carved figures of devotees on each of their four faces.
Significant among these are the figures facing west on the four
westernmost pillars, which form the main entry onto the porch. The inner
two pillars depict entrance guardians (dvārapāla), and on the far pillars
one sees a Hanumān and a Bhairava, both traditional protector-deities. The
marble floor of the pavilion has a small convex swelling, called a lotus, in
its very centre. A three-foot high marble railing blocks the front (west)
entrance to the garbhagriha. A pair of marble footprints (padukā), which
devotees and their offerings may touch, is located by the railing. It
functions as the cardinal physical contact point between votaries and the
Devi. Priests sit behind the railing. They accept the flower offerings to the
Goddess, pour spoonfuls of consecrated water into the palms of devotees,
and apply a red powder paste (rori) to votaries’ foreheads. Two
magnificently cast bronze winged lions stand on either side of the
barricade.
Close to the northeast corner of the shikhara-bearing structure is a
small, but popular, Rudra-Bhairava shrine, containing a metal head of this
wrathful form of Shiva. On the outer back (eastern) wall of the central
structure is an eight-petalled lotus (ashtadala kamala). Devotees who
circumambulate the temple often reach upward to touch this lotus,
maintaining contact while they pivot around their outstretched arms. Like
the pāduka in front of the inner sanctum, this lotus serves as an important
tactile access-point to the Devi. It conveys a sense that the narrowing
spiral of their circumambulations reaches its destination there.
At Durgā-ji, Durgā’s main image is, of course, located in the temple’s
inner sanctum or garbhagriha (womb), which is now the temple’s spire
bearing structure, or shikhara. The shikhara is itself multi-spired
(anekandeka), and actually made up of many small spires (karna
shikhara), which culminate in a single, large, central spire (uru shringa
shikhara) at the top. Priests and worshippers often remark how the
shikhara’s five uppermost spires (i.e., the large, central spire, and the four
smaller, subsidiary ones at the cardinal directions) represent the five gross
elements (mahābhuta) that constitute the material universe. The five
mahābhutas are commonly associated with Prakriti, the principle of
Nature or Materiality, which manifests progressively into an array of
elements (tattva). The implication is that the shikhara, when scanned from
top to bottom, conveys a sense of the manifestation of Prakriti, the created
universe, from its most subtle elements to its grossest. Visually moving up
the shikhara, the process of manifestation is reversed, and the structure
338 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
suggests that these gross and subtle constituent elements merge to form a
single entity symbolized by the shikhara’s apex. At the apex of Durgā-ji’s
shikhara one finds three items: a lotus, a jar, and a trident, all multivalent
symbols, but frequently associated with the feminine principle, the Devi.
For instance, the lotus is a symbol of the unfolding or blossoming of the
cosmos from its single source. The jar (kalasha) is a symbol of
containment, integration, and immortality (amrita), as well as of fertility
and fructification. The trident carries the symbolism of the three gunas,
namely, the qualities of clarity, passion, and turbidity intrinsic to all of
Prakriti’s manifestations. Although these formal structural elements of the
shikhara are common in the design of North Indian temples, many votaries
see these features as symbolic pointers to the Goddess herself.
The mask sits upon a yantra. The yantra is in the wall. The washings,
offerings of rori, Chandana (sandalwood paste), dressing, and so on are
done to the yantra.
It is not easy to affix the mask to the image, since no nails may be attached
to the image. Sometimes rats crawl over the image and drop the mask.
There is no murti. On the wall there is a simple carved sign. It is very
ancient. Normally [on ancient images] one finds a bit of hand, arm, head, or
a [more complete] image. But here there are only vague lines. Everything is
made according to mantras. These lines are made according to yantras.
The absence of any substantial image behind the mask was also
confirmed by Kaushal Dwivedi, another minor owner and pujāri, whom I
interviewed several years later.
I was initially surprised and somewhat frustrated to hear that there was
nothing behind the mask that could be adequately described. I was
primarily familiar with temples in which there was definitely some visible
form of the deity housed in the inner sanctum. However, my subsequent
studies of temples in Nepal revealed that it is common to have the deity’s
yantra totally sealed within the inner sanctum. Another image, mainly to
be viewed and worshipped by devotees, is then placed in front of the
sealed sanctum. This, it would appear, is the case at Durgā-ji, where the
mask provides votaries with a “face” with which to have an audience
(darshana) with Durgā, even though her true nature remains mysterious
and concealed from sight.
The Shilpa Prakāsha (SP), a detailed work on Tantric temple
architecture written by Rāmachandra Kulāchāra before the 12th century
emphasizes the “construction, consecration, and depositing of various
yantras in the foundation and underneath various sections of temples as
well as below or behind their sculpted images” (White 2003: 94). A
particularly important yantra is the “yogini-yantra,” which is to be
installed beneath the inner sanctum, . . . (SP 1.90-96, cited in White 2003:
94). The widely held view among devotees and religious specialists at
Durgā-ji, is that the temple is built upon this kind of Tantric specification
‒ although no one mentioned the term “yogini-yantra” ‒ at the core of
the inner sanctum. I did hear dozens of persons refer to the entire temple
being either actually built upon, or incorporating, the symbolism of the
340 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
occasions, when inquiring into why she was offered red scarves, was
draped in a red sāri, and why the temple was red. Of course, red is the
colour of blood, with which the Devi is intimately linked both in myth and
worship rites. In Durgā’s best-known mythic acts, she bloodily slays a host
of demons, including Shumbha, Nishumbha, and Mahishāsura, the buffalo
demon. And Durgā-ji is the only temple in Banaras where blood sacrifice
is officially permitted. The Durgā Mandir is nothing less than the Devi
herself shrouded in her blood red sari.
The Devi’s embodied presence at the site of the Durgā Kund temple
can be further justified by an examination of the temples subsidiary
shrines, the kunda, and its mythic story.
7. Brief History
Rāni Bhavāni (Bhabāni), a pious Bengali queen, known for the royal
grandeur of her worship of Durgā during the annual Durgā Puja festivals,
built the Durgā Kund temple. A learned and literate woman, Rāni Bhavāni
was a generous patron of the Hindu revival in Banaras (Ghosh 1986: 121).
However, neither temple owners (mahant) nor priests know the exact date
of the temple’s construction, and there is no inscriptional plaque. We
know, through inscriptional plaques at other sites, that Rani Bhavani’s
constructional patronage in the Banaras area extended from at least 1735,
the construction date of Bhavanishvara Shiva Mandir in Khālispurā, till
her death in 1802, the date of completion of the kunda at Kardameshvara
temple in Kandwā, on the Panchakroshi pilgrimage route. Local legend
tells that the queen die the moment the Durgā Kund temple was
completed, although Mr. Awadh Bihāri Khare, whose doctoral dissertation
was on Banāras temple styles, suggests (in a personal communication) a
date of about 1768, some ten years before the completion of the
reconstruction of the city’s most holy shrine, Kāshi Vishvanātha. Kāshi
Vishvanātha, also called the ‘Golden Temple’ by the Westerns because of
its gilded shikhara, is a temple of Shiva. Although the original temple
underwent a series of destructions and reconstructions, the current edifice
was built in 1777 by another pious queen, Rāni Ahilyabāi of Indore.
Ahilyabāi and Bhavāni are often confused in the minds of locals, who
place them both some three to five hundred years ago. In a personal
communication, Dr. Krishna Deva, renowned for his monumental work on
the temples of Khajurāho, speculated that it would have taken four or five
families of stoneworkers some twenty years to complete the original
structure of Durgā-ji. Rājā Jai Nārain Ghoshāl of Bhukailāsh in Bengal, a
contemporary of Rāni Bhavāni, is reported to have praised the
342 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
the great pipal tree began to wither and die allowing the temple to be built
where it once stood.
9. Durgā Kund
Regardless of whether or not a small temple, with or without images,
or even a great pipal tree stood on the site, there is an obvious antiquity to
Durgā Kund, the sacred pond itself. As a relatively large natural pond that
did not dry up over the hot summer months, it was undoubtedly a
noteworthy place to the surrounding community stretching back to
antiquity. And although it now receives less attention from worshippers
than does the temple, the kunda was almost certainly regarded as the
original abode of a goddess (devi). Such associations between kundas and
goddesses are both ancient and widespread on the Indian subcontinent. In
his study of the Shākta pithas, abodes or seats of Shakti, the Divine
Feminine conceived as “power,” D.C. Sircar (1948) traces the relationship
between kundas and the female generative organ (yoni), which is a symbol
of the generative power in nature. This strand of worship views the
fecundity of nature as the symbolic union of male and female principles.
The landscape is regarded as sacred, since it is considered to be the very
body of gods and goddesses. Hills, mountains, rivers, and ponds are the
self-existent signs (svayambhu linga) of a deity, or the places from which
creation emerges (yonipitha) (see Bagchi 1980, and Kinsley 1987: 178-
196). Durgā Kund was and still is one such yonipitha.
The advent of Durgā worship in Banāras is not as yet traceable.
However, a 6th century C.E. inscription testifies that an image of a
goddess covered with serpents, with a necklace of human heads, and
holding an axe in her hand, was installed in a temple in her honour. Since
such a goddess resembles Chandi or Kāli, forms or aspects of Durgā, we
can surmise that Durgā worship was in evidence around this period
(Altekar 1937: 27, referring to Epigraphica Indica, IX, p. 69). The superb
art collection at Bhārat Kalā Bhavan includes images from the Banaras
area of Durgā as Mahishāsuramardini (Crusher of the Demon Buffalo)
dating from the 8th to 12th C.E., confirming her worship in the city up till
the Muslim invasions.
A firm identification of the Durgā Kund or devi yonipitha with the
goddess Durgā is found in the Kāshi Khanda of the Skanda Purāna, to
which temple priests frequently refer. It tells of the merit of bathing in
Durgā Kund and worshipping the Devi there. Although the date of the
Kāshi Khanda is uncertain, as part of the Skanda Purāna it is considered
to have timeless authority. Scholars suggest that it is later than the twelfth
344 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
These two references strongly link the Devi of the Skanda Purāna to
the Durgā Kund, and to a Durgā shrine located there. This can be none
other than the original site of Durgā-ji, for no other goddess temple in
Banaras is so obviously associated with both a kunda and with blood
sacrifice.
The Kāshi Khanda (chapters 71 and 72) also recounts how the Devi
got her name. She acquired it by slaying the great demon Durgama or
Durga (the Unassailable) in order to protect the gods. The Devi produced
thousands of energy manifestations (shakti) from her body, which defeated
the demon’s armies. After slaying the demon himself in a buffalo form
that he had assumed, the Devi took the name Durgā for herself. The Kāshi
Khanda then states that that very same Durgā, with her shaktis, Kālarātri
and others, always protect Banāras. A local legend states that, after the
battle the Devi rested at Durgā Kund, thus sanctifying the place (Eck
1982: 167). The implication is that the Goddess is ever present in Banaras
as Durgā, along with her shaktis.
Durga, Sacred abode of Great Goddesses in Varanasi 345
Another story that links Durgā with Banāras is found in the Devi
Bhāgavata Purāna (3.24.5-7, 25.41-42), dated by R.C. Hazra to about the
12th century. It tells of Shashikalā, the daughter of the king of Kāshi
(Banāras), who wanted to marry the prince Sudarshana. When her father
agreed to the marriage, it enraged powerful rival kings who vied for her
hand, and they decided to attack Sudarshana. The young prince prayed to
Durgā, who interceded on his behalf and slew his enemies. Thereupon,
Subahu, the king of Banāras, also sang the praises of Devi Durgā. Pleased
with his worship, the Goddess appeared to him and granted him a boon.
He asked that she always remain in Banaras, being worshipped under the
name of Shri Durgā Devi, and protect the city and make it renowned for as
long as it stood on the face of the earth. Subāhu established an image of
the Devi in Banāras, had temples built, and encouraged her worship. Here
again the enduring presence of Durgā in Banāras is reiterated.
These Purānic myths, local legends, and somewhat obscure historical
details behind Rāni Bhavāni’s construction of the temple are loosely
woven together by knowledgeable worshippers and temple priests (see
Rodrigues 1993). They offer a rationale, grounded in the scriptural
authority of the Puranas, for why Durgā (and her shaktis) took up her
abode in Banāras, why the king of Banāras patronizes her, and why her
prime place of worship is at Durgā Kund. The Kāshi Khanda’s references
to Durgā’s pilgrimage in Banaras, and its mention of Kālarātri and Durgā’s
other shaktis, offer Purānic justifications for the pilgrimages to the Nine
Durgās during the autumn and spring Navarātri. During those times of
year, the Devi of Durgā Kund temple, also known as Bari Durgā (Big
Durgā), is one of nine important Durgās in Banāras. In this pilgrimage
circuit a different shrine is visited on each of the nine lunar days (tithi) of
Navarātra. The Durgā Kund temple is the fourth of the nine temples
visited, and within this cluster of nine, the Devi bears the name
Kushmānda (Pumpkin Gourd). The Nine Durgās are: Shailaputri,
Brahmachārini, Chandraghantā, Kushmāndā, Skandamātā, Kātyāyani,
Kālarātri, Mahāgauri, and Siddhidātri. Even if we concede that the Kashi
Khanda is a late addition to the Skanda Purāna, conservatively dated to
the mid 14th century CE, the text’s references to the Durgā pilgrimage and
blood sacrifice at the Durgā Kund offer strong evidence of worship
traditions that predate the construction of the Durgā Kund temple by Rāni
Bhavāni. The Rāni’s temple only invigorated a tradition of Durgā worship
that had waned during Islamic persecution.
346 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
10. Conclusion
Although a more extensive report on the Durgā Kund temple would be
valuable, space restrictions dictate that I abbreviate my description here,
and proceed to my concluding remarks. When Banāras was so thickly
populated with trees that it embodied its epithet, the “Forest of Bliss,” the
Durgā Kund, although probably not known by that name, was certainly a
fresh water pond surrounded by dense jungle (see Eck 1982: 29), known
and visited by local inhabitants. They may have watered their animals
there, come to collect water for their homes, taken cooling baths, or
washed their clothes. Large trees may well have surrounded it, and it is
equally certain that as a kunda, located within the perimeter of the sacred
circle (mandala) of Kashi, it too was regarded as sacred. Sircar’s
observation that since antiquity kundas were seen as natural embodiments
of goddesses is particularly cogent, and this kunda was almost certainly
regarded as an abode of a goddess. Even more than an abode, as Sircar
(1948: 8) notes, such kundas may well have been regarded as a visible sign
or manifest form of that goddess. My inquiries reveal that each of nine
Durgā temples currently visited during the annual Nine Durgā pilgrimages
was located beside a natural well, pond, or other such water source,
although many of these have now disappeared. This affirms the close
connection between these nine goddesses and natural sources of water.
As we continue our journey forward through time, it is reasonable to
imagine that some sort of goddess murti was placed beside the kunda as a
focal point of worship, perhaps at the base of a prominent tree growing by
the kunda, its roots nourished by the pond’s waters. It is equally likely that
the tree, murti, and kunda were all seen as abodes or manifestations of the
goddess. There are literally thousands of such sites throughout the Indian
subcontinent. With the rise of the unifying conception of the Great
Goddess (Devi or Mahādevi, also best known by the epithet, Durgā) by the
6th or 7th century C.E., it is certain that the local goddess was identified
with Durgā (see Coburn 1984, Kinsley 1986, and Pintchman 1994). As the
popular worship of Durgā in Banaras grew, as evidenced in the Purānic
tales found in the Devi Bhāgavata and the Kāshi Khanda, purifying baths
in Durgā Kund, blood sacrifices at the site, and pilgrimages to the Nine
Durgās were regular features of religious life in Banāras. It is not
unreasonable that a shrine to Durgā graced the premises of the Durgā
Kund, and that more than one murti was located there.
What is most noteworthy, however, is that the Devi’s manifest
presence at the site of Durgā Kund is not exclusively bound to the pond
alone, to the great pipal tree that may have once stood there, or to
Durga, Sacred abode of Great Goddesses in Varanasi 347
whatever kind of shrine harboured the murti(s) placed there. Rather, it was
located in all of these. So although Rāni Bhavāni’s temple, and the golden
mask within its inner sanctum subsequently became the focal point of
Durgā’s presence for many devotees, the manifest presence of the Goddess
is everywhere on the sacred site. For instance, although blood from
sacrifices is placed in the offering cup on the sacrificial pillar located in
front of the divine image in the temple sanctum, the Skanda Purāna
mentions such sacrifices long before the construction of Rāni Bhavāni’s
temple. In fact, the victim’s blood spills onto the unpaved section of soil in
the sacrificial pit, where it is received by the earth. It subsequently trickles
into the waters of Durgā Kund.
It is tempting to imagine that it was sensitivity to this broad, pervading
presence of the Devi at the kunda and its environs that prompted the
builders of Rāni Bhavāni’s temple to Durgā to install a concealed yantra
as the Devi’s iconic form. The hidden yantra does not confine the sacred
expanse of the Devi’s manifest form into the limited corporeality evoked
by a murti. Instead, it obliges the votary to wonder about the mysterious
form of the Goddess suggested by the concealed yantra. That concealed
yantra, as well as the temple itself, which is regarded by most as a yantra,
do embody Durgā, for this is the nature of yantras. However, the yantra’s
instrumental nature serves to impel the religious aspirant into intimate
communion with the Devi. This may be accomplished through an
encounter with the immanent presence of the seemingly transcendent
Goddess. Although Durgā, as her name suggests, can be “difficult” (dur)
to “access” (ga), the Purānic testimony assures her devotees that she has
taken up her abode as the protector of Banāras, and thus has made herself
constantly available at certain locales.
Not only is the sacred site of the Durgā Kund and Durgā Kund mandir
such a place of access to the Devi, but all of her nine temples also function
as touchstones of her presence during the Navarātri. Since these temples
are located both at the periphery and the centre of Banāras, the Durgā
yantra is superimposed upon the Kāshi mandala, Shiva’s sacred realm.
Actually, during the Navarātris, votaries establish the Devi in hundreds of
locales in the form of an earthen jar (kalasha) filled with water and topped
with a coconut. With the growing popularity of the Durgā Puja in Banāras
over the last century, the Devi is also established in the form of a
multicoloured anthropomorphic clay image in hundreds of public, and
some private, locales throughout the city during the autumn Navarātri (see
Rodrigues 2003). Thus Shakti unites fully with Shiva; they are one.
The concealed yantra of Durgā at Durgā-ji thus reveals some measure
of the Goddess’s ever-abiding, protective, empowering, and immanent
348 12. Hillary P. Rodrigues
11. References
Bagchi, Subendugopal 1980. Eminent Indian Shākta Centres in Eastern
India. Punthi Pustak, Calcutta.
Bhattacharyya, Raghunath 1986. Lokamata Mahārāni Bhavāni. Translated
by Miss Anima Das; in Singh, Ram Dular (ed.) Bengal and Varanasi:
A Study of Cultural Synthesis and National Integration (Bengal’s
Durga, Sacred abode of Great Goddesses in Varanasi 349
Skanda Purāna 1997. Part XI. Book IV: Kāshi-Khanda. Translated and
annotated by G. V. Tagare. Motilal Banarsidass, Delhi.
Sukul, Kuber Nath 1974. Varanasi Down the Ages. Bhargava Bhushan
Press, Varanasi.
White, David Gordon 2003. Kiss of the Yogini: “Tantric Sex” in its South
Asian Contexts. The University of Chicago Press, Chicago.
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Abstract. The meanings of the river Gangā held by Indian citizens are as
wide ranging as they are common at their core. For some the river is a
natural entity in physical space, and for many others she is a goddess with
powers to purify and grant blessings. To all, the river is important and
essential to life and well-being. In the holy city of Banaras situated along
the banks of the Gangā we find this diversity of views and meanings
among residents and visitors. In this paper I portray some of these diverse
and sometimes contrasting perspectives and provide religious, historical
and cultural background for understanding how this complexity leads to a
serious problem for the river herself and for those who continue to need
her purifying powers and essential life supporting resources. The activist
citizens most concerned with these problems and most frustrated with the
lack of progress in pollution prevention over the last twenty years continue
to call for active public participation and ‘self-awakening,’ to save mother
Gangā, the goddess who has for generations nurtured and protected us all.
Keywords. Gangā, goddess, ghāts, pollution, Gangā action Plan, images,
perception, legal procedures.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1. Perspectives
My research focusing on the river Goddess Gangā began in the early
1990s as a way to address a sense of paradox I overhead while boating
along the Gangā (Ganges in Anglicised form) river with a group of
American tourists. While touring the river in the city of Banāras, the
tourists pondered how it was that a sacred river could be polluted. As I
wondered about how their views could be resituated within the many other
discourses and approaches to this great river, I shaped my academic
352 13. Kelly D. Alley
busiest spot for ritual bathing along this City’s 7km reach. Pilgrim priests
and boatmen residing and working on Dashāshvamedha ghāt understand
their space in terms of religious significances and everyday uses. This ghāt
or flight of steps that gives the public access to the river Gangā is a place
where the other world intersects with this world, where divine, eternal
power can be felt and seen as immanent, and where the miraculous occurs
in contexts of stark contrast. It is a place where divine power is accessed
through elaborate ritual practices, guided and taught by local specialists. It
is also a place where Hindus acknowledge and complain about worldly
interests in the midst of this otherworldliness, and collectively deny their
own interests in its disenchanting nature.
Fig. 13.1. The Gangā River basin & holy places (after Singh 2009a: 270).
Fig. 13.3. The Gangā: Source area, Uttarakhanda (after Singh 2009a: 271).
Surrounding Banāras, the Gangā river and its tributaries drain more
than one million square kilometres of China, Nepal, India and Bangladesh
(cf. Fig. 13.3, after Singh 2009b). In India, the Gangā basin, which
includes the Yamunā sub-basin, covers over 861,000 square kilometres or
one fourth of India’s geographical area. The Gangā river begins at the
confluence of the Bhāgirathi and the Alakanandā, located within the
356 13. Kelly D. Alley
Himalayan foothills of northern India, and then flows across the great
alluvial Indo-Gangā plains.
The mainstream that carries the name Gangā is entirely within India
and this channel and its water are most sacred to Hindus. Along the
river’s traverse, large tributaries enter the Gangā and significantly change
her flow and constitution but the major tributaries, the Rāma Gangā,
Yamunā, and Ghāghara, are the only Himalayan rivers that have
significant base and flood flows. Water also comes from snowmelt and
monsoon season rainfall. Today sediment loads in the Gangā, among the
highest for any river basin in the world, are increasing as the Gangā plains
and the Himalayan foothills are further deforested.
The Upper Gangā plain is one of the most highly irrigated regions of
the country. For irritation purposes, the Gangā is dewatered at several
sites. The most upstream site is located at Haridwar, where the plains
meet the foothills of the Himalayas. At Haridwar, a significant portion of
the main stream is diverted into the Upper Gangā Canal, an irrigation
channel that feeds the alluvial tract between the Gangā and Yamunā rivers.
The Upper Gangā Plain running through the state of Uttar Pradesh is
also the most industrialized part of the river basin with sugar factories,
leather tanneries, textile industries of cotton, wool, jute, and silk, food-
processing industries related with rice, dāl (lentil) and edible oils, paper
and pulp industries, heavy chemical factories, and fertilizer and rubber
manufacturing units. Industrial wastewater is discharged by a number of
these industries. Four major thermal power plants also depend upon water
from the Gangā. In 1995, the Central Pollution Control Board listed 191
grossly polluting industries in the state of Uttar Pradesh, 6 in the state of
Bihar, and 67 in the state of West Bengal, however, there are many more
smaller polluting units not accounted for by these numbers.
For at least two and a half millennia, the Gangā basin has served as the
seat of human civilization. Buddhist records explain that in the sixth
century B.C.E. the valley was a large jungle where horticulturalists and
agriculturalists were colonizing the resource base of hunter-gatherer
populations (Gadgil and Guha 1992:78). Later the Gangā stood at the
epicentre of the great dynasties that rose and fell, serving as the main
waterway for long-distance trade and transportation.
The Gangā basin is also the cradle of Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage
culture. Some of the most important centres of spiritual learning and
healing have developed along her banks and those of her tributaries. At the
headwaters of the Gangā in the Himālaya, sacred shrines at Tapovan,
Gomukh, Bhojbāsa, and Gangotri mark the sources of her power. The
shrines of Kedarnāth and Badrināth also celebrate their position in the
Dirtying of the River Goddess Gangā 357
rishi, insulted by their audacity, had burned them to the ground with his
rage.
In all versions of the descent story, King Sagar’s sons were finally
liberated by the grace of Gangā. After many generations, Bhāgiratha, a
descendant of this great King, achieved sufficient power through
devotional penance, to impress on Lord Brahma that his wish be granted.
Bhāgiratha asked that Gangā descend to earth and purify the burning coals
of his ancestors. Brahmā agreed and poured Gangā out of his jug and onto
the locks of Lord Shiva. From there, she meandered down the peaks of the
western Himalayas, following Bhāgiratha across the plains of northern
India to the site where the burning coals lay. At that spot, she purified
them by her touch and then flowed into the Bay of Bengal.
There is another descent story associated with this one that follows
from a medieval treatise (the Bhāgavata Purāna). It relates how Vishnu in
his incarnation as a dwarf asked for three strides from Bali, the Lord of the
Universe. Thinking the dwarf’s stride would be limited, Bali granted the
wish. But then the dwarf (who was really Vishnu) grew exponentially and
extended three legs across this world, the heavens, and the netherworld in
the strides allotted by Bali. The toe of one foot scratched the highest tip of
the cosmic egg encapsulating this world. Gangā flowed out through this
crack and washed down Vishnu’s foot. The verse relates how, in the
descent of rivers from the cosmic realm, the sins of the world are washed
away.
After washing over Vishnu’s foot, Gangā descended onto the head of
Lord Shiva, where his locks contained her powerful flow. In this way,
Gangā’s descent is intricately related to Brahmā, Vishnu and Shiva and
Gangā herself is called tripathagā, the union of three paths or elements.
The Shankarāchārya of Jagannāth Puri, a respected religious leader,
explained the meaning of tripathaga in a taped interview:
“Gangā is Mā. As Mā, nothing happens to her. Her water rises (pāni
barhti hai) and the waste (gandagi) goes away”.
The ones complaining are saying that gandagi is coming from here and
from there. Yes they are acknowledging that gandagi is there, but where is
the dirt in nectar (amrit me gandā kahān hai)? When Gangā is Mā then Mā
will remain not the dirt. Rājiv Gāndhi gave the call to clean (safai karna)
Gangā. But Congress [a political party] has not cleaned anything. In fact,
they were the ones that were cleaned out [of power]! Who can clean Mā?
She gave birth to humanity, so who will clean Mā? You can never repay Mā
(Mā se koi uddhār nahi hotā). For example, there is one temple on
Manikarnikā ghāt. Mā Gangā said to her son, “Make me a strong
foundation and build me a temple.” The son was a King so he built a
beautiful temple. It is there today [on Manikarnikā ghāt]. After it was built,
the King went and did pujā at the temple and then said, “From Mā we get
life. She requested that I make the temple and so I have done it.” But then
the temple sunk into the ground [and remains today tipped and sunken in
the bed of the river]. So there is no one who can pay back Mā (Mā se koi
uddhār honewālā nahi. Are, Mā hai!). In other words, there is no one to
give her back all that she gives us.
Sacred texts also tell people to wash the mouth with Gangā-jal without
spitting directly into the river. Washing utensils in the river, and especially
items used in puja, is preferred while on pilgrimage.
In sacred places, pilgrims and residents revere and seek blessings from
Gangā by undertaking the ritual of ārati. Ārati is a ceremonial offering of
fire in which the sounds of bells, gongs, drums, and conch shells play a
prominent role. A devotee chants mantras and sings during the last rites
of the ārati ceremony. Pilgrim priests on Dashāshvamedha sing the Gangā
Stuti at the end of Gangā Mahā-ārati (great ārati), performed on the day of
Kārttikaa Purnimā:
From the place where the lotus foot of the Lord, where Bhāgirath did
great tapasyā (ritual austerities), Gangā poured out from Brahmā’s jug
into the locks of Shiva-Shankar.
She then descended to earth on a mountain of countless sins.
Tulasidās says open your two eyes and see how naturally she flows as
a stream of nectar.
Those who take her name in memory will get mukti, those who do
pranām (prayer) will arrive at God’s place.
Those who come to the banks of Gangā will find heaven, those who
see the waves of emotion will get moksa.
O Tarangani (Gangā)!, your nature is this, what God has given to you.
O Bhāgirathi (Gangā)!, I am full of sin and dirtiness. I believe you
will give me mukti (liberation) and a place at your feet.
2. Back to confluences.
This metaphor of confluence also points our attention to other powers
and discourses, not covered in this short essay but crucial to understanding
the bigger issues of human-environment interactions in this river basin.
The discourse of Gangā’s sacred purity is very powerful in a symbolic,
cultural and political way in India. However, power is also exerted
through administrative and institutional waste management practices,
through industrial production, through a judicial activism that claims to
develop more stringent environmental orders, directions, and implementa-
tion mechanisms, and through the ecological power of wastewater flows.
Given the variety of interpretations of ecological processes in science
Dirtying of the River Goddess Gangā 365
of 1,400 crore [14 billions] rupees (Babu 2009). In addition, this action
plan inspired the creation of other river action plans (Yamunā, Gomati, to
name a few), designed to collect municipal, state and central funds that
would be used to build and operate wastewater diversion and treatment
systems. During this period, the understanding of public river uses,
particularly those related to Hindu ritual water uses, was directly linked to
the understanding that pollution should be prevented especially to improve
water quality in religious bathing areas. References to the religious
importance of the Gangā and Yamunā rivers, in particular, lined the
policies of the Gangā and Yamunā Action Plans from the outset. I have
documented the history of the Gangā Action Plan policies and projects in
depth in my book (Alley 2002).
The reverence for rivers and the belief in sacred purity have in other
words helped to keep the interest in protecting water quality alive.
Religious practices do not amount to environmental activism by direct
means but they do involve longstanding use practices that absorb many
kinds of public uses, all of them to be severely limited by further
diminishment of a river’s flow and quality. Religious bathers and public
users were in essence written out as stakeholders in the river linking
policies that grew popular from 2004 through 2008. During that time, the
importance of public uses including religious rituals was eclipsed by
statements about the growing needs of agriculture, industries and cities.
National policies moved from a focus on single river basins to a notion of
a national water grid, promoted by a growing interest in connecting river
basins and watersheds across the country and region through river linking.
Public and religious user rights need to come back into the picture in the
river policies on “ecosystem services” and “environmental flows” that
may soon give back importance to water quality.
In December of 2004, I returned to field locations I had been visiting
since 1992 to record, with a radio team, the state of the Gangā Action
Plan. The team’s documentary effort was to link together documents and
official reports with field observations. Moreover, water quality data from
governmental and nongovernmental sources were triangulated with these
field observations and interviews. The team knew it had to walk the banks
of the river, especially in cities such as Kanpur, to appreciate the
magnitude of the river pollution problem in the Gangā basin. In Varanasi,
the radio team toured the wastewater disposal and treatment facilities
created under the Gangā Action Plan. After almost twenty years of the
Plan, we found the facilities in a dilapidated state of existence. Most were
not running 24 hours a day or even every day of the week, portions of
plants were lying dormant and not used, and staff had not been paid for
Dirtying of the River Goddess Gangā 367
months. The British had completed their projects, the Dutch were asked
by the Government of India to discontinue as a project donor, and the
Japanese International Development Agency (JIDA) was considering new
investment to salvage the facilities. In my memory bank, that state of
affairs was far bleaker than at the time the first large treatment plants were
being constructed under the Gangā Action Plan (1985-1996). The
situation was indeed worse: populations had grown; consumption
behaviour had changed to include more use and disposal of water, plastics,
paper, and toxic substances; industries, cities, and farms were emitting
heavy metals, pesticides and other toxic chemicals into surface waters at
an alarming rate; and projects with big investments lay dysfunctional or
without key parts to run properly (including uninterrupted electricity). It
was a seriously depressing week.
Unfortunately the radio team found this scenario repeated in most of
the other cities bordering this river. Following this, the Gangā Action Plan
was passed off as a success until 2008 when political leaders finally
realized they could no longer make such an outlandish claim without
evidence. Today the Central Pollution Control Board admits that about
45% of the river is still unfit for bathing (Babu 2009). As government
agencies developed and partially implemented other river pollution
prevention plans over the last four years, many projects remained starved
for funds and only the minimal work at infrastructure building was done.
Meanwhile public uses of the river and ritual practices have continued on a
large scale. While citizens are not barred from religious bathing at a
sacred site, the physical/chemical quality of the river waters they use is
seriously affected by upstream diversions, urban and industrial effluents,
run off and more. In other words, the quality of their uses and experiences
is reduced, even if all this does not undermine the very religious survival
of the river goddess or worship practices more broadly. While the sacred
purity of the Gangā might override all this—an issue of devotion I don’t
dispute — public river uses expose citizens to contaminants through direct
contact with water that is mixing with untreated effluent and wastewater.
These contacts very seriously threaten human health. Water quality,
watershed health and ecosystem functions are of course also diminishing
as a result of the increase in intensive uses of river water and river beds as
effluent channels. Peer reviewed scientific research (usually produced
outside government agencies) has documented the rise in levels of faecal
coliform, bacteria, pathogens, and metals in rivers and the general
deterioration of water quality (in terms of BOD and DO) for fishing and
public uses.
368 13. Kelly D. Alley
The latest alarming voice should be taken as an appeal: “We the sons
of the Gangā” should do some real action to cure her illness through local
medicine rather than buy bandages and drugs from international stores like
the World Bank. If we treat our mother with respect and dignity and take
Dirtying of the River Goddess Gangā 369
care of her then there will not be a single voice that can question our
Mother and her qualities. No one can question the spirituality of our
mother Gangā, but she is ill and if we do not treat her, who will?” ― as
recently questioned (Singh, B. 2009, compare Singh 2009a: 298-300).
5. References
Alley, Kelly D. 2002. On the Banks of the Gangā: When Wastewater
Meets a Sacred River. University of Michigan Press, Ann Arbor.
Babu, Suresh 2009, December 4. Curious case of Ganga. India Water
Portal Org Blog, see: http://www.indiawaterportal.org/blog/suresh-
babu/9006 <retrieved on 15 December 2009>
Feldhaus, Anne 1995. Water and Womanhood. Oxford University Press,
New York.
Gadgil, Madhav and Guha, Ramachandra 1992. This Fissured Land.
University of California Press, Berkeley.
Geertz, Clifford 1973. Deep Play: Notes on a Balinese Cockfight; in, his:
The Interpretation of Cultures. Basic Books, New York: 412-453.
Herzfeld, Michael 1993. The Social Production of Indifference: Exploring
the Symbolic Roots of Western Bureaucracy. University of Chicago
Press, Chicago.
Kempton, Willett; Boster, James S. and Hartley, Jennifer A. 1995.
Environmental Values in America. MIT Press, Cambridge MA.
Parry, Jonathon P. 1980. Ghosts, Greed and Sin: the Occupational Identity
of the Banaras Funeral Priests. Man (N.S.) 15 (1): 88-111; reprinted in,
Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.) 1993, Banāras (Vārānasi): Cosmic Order,
Sacred City, Hindu Traditions. Tara Book Agency, Varanasi: 179-196.
―. 1981. Death and Cosmogony in Kashi. Contributions to Indian
Sociology, 15 (1-2): 337-365; reprinted in, Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.)
1993, Banāras (Vārānasi): Cosmic Order, Sacred City, Hindu
Traditions. Tara Book Agency, Varanasi: 103-121.
―. 1994. Death in Banāras. Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.
Singh, Binay 2009. Wake up sons of Gangā. Times of India (Vārānasi,
page 2), TNN 16 December. Ref. www <accessed: 16 Dec. 2009>:
http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/Vārānasi/Wake-up-sons-of-
Gangā/articleshow/5344961.cms.
Singh, Rana P.B. (ed.) 1993. Banāras (Vārānasi): Cosmic Order, Sacred
City, Hindu Traditions. Tara Book Agency, Varanasi.
―. 2009a. The Gangā River: Image and Symbol of India; in, his:
Geographical Thoughts in India: Snapshots and Vision for the 21st
370 13. Kelly D. Alley
----------------------------------------------
§ Kelley D. Alley has received her B.S. from Cornell University and her Ph.D. in
Anthropology from the University of Wisconsin-Madison in 1990. She has carried
out research in northern India for over fifteen years, focusing on public culture and
environmental issues. Her book titled, On the Banks of the Ganga: When
Wastewater Meets a Sacred River (University of Michigan Press 2002) explores
Hindu interpretations of the sacred river Gangā in light of current environmental
problems. For three years, Alley and M. C. Mehta, an environmental lawyer from
Delhi, directed a project to facilitate professional exchanges between environ-
mental lawyers, scientists and NGOs to solve river pollution problems in India.
14
Jyoti Rohilla
Banaras Hindu University, India.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Abstract. Tārā, the Great Mother Goddess, in Buddhism represents the
feminine spirit who controls and runs the cosmic order as Kāli does in
Hinduism. Both of these forms are comparable to the Earth Mother, or
Mother Nature, comparable to Gaia in the western world. Tārā has
multiple forms symbolised with various colours and postures which in
turns refer to various qualities. Among such forms the Green Tārā is
eulogised as the source of all Tārās. Amongst the five distinct forms of
Green Tārā existing in Alchi Gompā, the four represent different religious
values, while the central one shows amalgam of all together. All these
figures are ornamented with various objects of nature, and also through
gestures representing the state of human cognition and consciousness. In
all possibility these forms refer the head of the lineage to which Tārā
belongs, i.e. Green Amoghasiddhi who is represented above the central
image of goddess. These forms are also identified as Prajnāpāramitā.
Keywords. Alchi, Avalokiteshvara, Buddhist art, Dhanada Tārā, Green
Tārā, mandala, Prajnāpāramitā.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
goddess (Khadirvāni Tārā). Her Pure Land is that of the forest and
therefore is lush and verdant, filled with flowers, animals, birds, waterfalls
and plant life. She holds a blue lotus, which is a night-blooming flower. It
symbolizes that she protects during times of fear, when one is in darkness,
literally or spiritual. Her other hand is in the teaching position. This
symbolises that her powers for protection include teaching her
beneficiaries to save themselves. The combination of her contemplative
position with the leg ready to step forward to help others symbolizes the
integration of wisdom and art. Tārā also is shown in colours other than
green. These manifestations symbolise different aspects associated with
the other colours.
2. Regional Perspectives
The Buddhist monastic art developed in the region of Western
Himalayas, which was never a political entity. The areas presently
included are west Tibet, north-west India, and north Pakistan. The part of
this region located to the north of the Great Himalaya Mountain that
ranges from Mt. Kailāsha in the east to the Gilgit agency in the west, is
called the western Trans Himalayas. This area was unified for short
periods in the tenth and eleventh century.
The areas which comprised of Gu-ge in west Tibet, Ladākh (with
Nubra and Zanskār) in north-west India, and Purang, which extends into
Nepal along-with some Cis-Himalaya areas and valleys, such as Lahul and
Spiti in Himachal Pradesh, during tenth to eleventh centuries were
controlled by the “Kings of western Tibet” who were also known as
“Kings of Gu-ge” (mNga-ris-Gyalpo). It was because of their cultural
influence that there was Tibetanisation of western Trans Himalayas and
also the revival of Buddhist monasticism. This was the time when there
was great artistic activities from eleventh to thirteenth centuries, followed
by another artistic phase from late fifteenth to sixteenth centuries
(Klimburg-Salter 1982: 152).
The Kings of western Tibet were majorly responsible for the
propagation of Buddhism as well as the establishment of Buddhist
institutions which was helping them in their socio-economic and cultural
change. In addition to the political impact of the new dynasty from central
Tibet, there was an influx of Tibetan immigrants from Central Asia in the
second half of the ninth century. But the major focus of our study is going
to be the monastic art of tenth to thirteenth centuries in the western Trans
Himalaya. While the monasteries were founded under Tibetan patronage
in the tenth-eleventh centuries, at that time Buddhism was still drawing on
374 14. Jyoti Rohilla
the living Buddhist traditions of India and therefore these monasteries can
best be understood within the context of contemporaneous Indian
Buddhism (Snellgrove and Skorupski 1997: 105). Some of the great
renowned teachers were responsible for Buddhist renaissance in western
Himalaya and Tibet were trained in the monasteries of north-east India, i.e.
Magadha and Bengal. The most famous of these, Rinchen Zangpo (died
1055), Atisa (also known as ‘Dipānkara’, died 1054) and Dharmapāla
(died 1013), were invited to Tibet by royal patrons, but many other
Buddhist teachers came of their own accord (Klimburg-Salter 1982: 154).
The different forms of Buddhism taught by these renowned teachers,
such as Rinchen Zangpo are well documented by contemporary literature
and art while the doctrinal preferences of Rinchen Zangpo can clearly be
witnessed in the paintings and sculptures of the monasteries he founded.
One such monastery is Alchi (11th century CE) which is a real
masterpiece as regard to the painted murals. According to the Tibetan
sources, Kashmiri monks on their way to Tibet along with Rinchen
Zangpo first settled at Sanid at Zanskār, Ladākh. Some paints were saved
out of this monastery which they further utilized to paint another
monastery and that was Sumda at Alchi. Interestingly, in the biography of
Rinchen Zangpo, the builder of Alchi monastery, the name of the
Kāshmiri artist Bhidaka who had carved the large image of Avalokite-
shvara for his master is mentioned. Besides wood and clay work, the Alchi
monastery exhibits one of the best preserved wall mural paintings which
are thousand in number. So strong is the overpowering mystique in the
monastery that the lay devotee in the process of being alone would
experience personal discovery of truth without of course the aid of text and
priest.
The Alchi enclave comprises a group of six monasteries namely,
Assembly Hall (Du-Khang), the three tiered temple (Sum-tsek), the New
Temple (Lhakhang Soma), Manjushri Lhakhang, Lotasva- Lhakhang,
Kangur-Lhakhang and a few chortens. These are paintings that decorate
the walls of the interior of the Du-Khang and are truly remarkable for they
along with few other examples also in Ladākh and neighbouring Himalaya
regions constitute the only extant examples of complex Mahāyāna
Buddhist painted mandalas in the Indic context (cf. Huntington 1982: 379-
380). These mandalas document both major portions of the Kashmiri
Buddhist pantheon as perceived by the Buddhists. Intended as technical
meditation devices for the use of monks, the mandalas represent the
Sarvadurgatiparisodhana Tantra style in which Vairochana, as Sarvāvid
(universal knowledge) appears in many manifestations.
Green Tārā and her images in Alchi 375
central icon is given more emphasis while the rest four are represented in
four corners which emphasize the difference in religious values of each of
the five Tārā.
The central or the main theme is the Green Tārā, whose beautiful,
lyrical and rhythmical treatment of painting immediately captures the
attention (Fig. 14.1). She is set in a white luminous disc which is having a
bluish green circular border. She is shown seated in Vajraparyanaka
āsana with her face in slight profile. She has six arms, her right hand
holding a staff with a hook (ankusha), a rosary (akshamālā) and the third
hand is in varada mudrā while the other three hands on the left side holds
a manuscript (pustaka), a blue lotus (utpala) and the lower most hand in
dhyāna mudrā (Roger Goepper identifies a decorated vase in the middle
hand but in my opinion it is the decorated border of the scarf and the
middle hand supports the stalk of the blue lotus; cf. idem. 1996: 73). She is
flanked by another lotus on right side. As regard to the identification of
this Tārā is concerned, some scholars identify her as Prajnāpāramitā
378 14. Jyoti Rohilla
(Snellgrove 1979: 56; Singh 1985: 59); while some confuse her with either
Tārā as Durgottārini Tārā or Prajnāpāramitā (Pal 1982: S.36). Charles
Genoud (1981: 54) in his identification prefers to identify her as form of
Tārā while Singh (2006: 59) re-identify her as six- armed Green Tārā.
Fig. 14.2. Dhanada Tārā in the upper left corner of the painting.
second, the lotus and the varada mudrā. Beside that she wears garments of
white colour (Bhattacharya 1968: 307). But in this panel (cf. Fig. 14.1),
the Green Tārā is neither wearing white garments nor she has four arms
and hence it is difficult to say that she is Durgottārini Tārā.
Fig. 14.3. Dhanada Tārā in the upper right corner of the painting.
Fig. 14.4. Dhanada Tārā in the lower left corner of the painting.
In the lower part, on either side, two standing goddesses are depicted.
The one on the left is shown standing in profile, holding a stalk of lotus
(utpala) with her both hands (cf. Fig. 14.4). The other figure on the right
Green Tārā and her images in Alchi 381
side is also standing and has two arms (Goepper describes her with four
arms (cf. 1996: 74), holding a stalk of lotus (utpala) in her left hand while
a rosary (akshamālā) in the right (cf. Fig. 14.5). Even the description of
these goddesses is similar to Dhanada Tārā, as:
Fig. 14.5. Dhanada Tārā in the lower right corner of the painting.
“Having a green appearance”: this means that one gets the colour green by
mixing white, yellow, and blue, and these colours symbolize, respectively,
the functions of pacifying, increasing, and destroying. Uniting all these
means the performance of every function” (Beyer 2001: 278).
In a way we can say that Green Tārā has the powers of pacifying,
increasing and destroying which means she is all in one. Thus, the above
cited reasons are quite convincing enough to justify the prominent
depiction of Green Tārā at Alchi.
― Gaia in Buddhist context who provides wisdom to her followers and act
as the Saviour.
Green Tārā (Dölmā) embodies the female wisdom activity of the mind
and is basically an emanation of the air-element (Amoghasiddhi Buddha),
of course in some lower tantras of the fire-element (Amitābha Buddha).
She is also called the ‘Mother of All Buddhas’ and has many peaceful and
wrathful emanation forms. Like Hindu Kāli there are innumerable
characteristics, metaphors and myths related to Tārā (cf. Singh 2009: 95).
In her variety, regional variation and various forms according to the
cultural areas and physical earth Tārā also to be taken as metaphor for the
contemporary environmental ethics, of course from the Buddhist
perspectives. The spectrum of environmental ethics encompasses a wide
variety that includes various forms of anthropocentrism (where humans
are placed at the centre of the moral universe), biocentrism (where all
forms of life have moral standing), and ecocentrism (where the highest
moral standing is imparted on ecosystems rather than individual organisms
or species). Tārā represents a unified whole linking all of these
imperatives.
6. Some Conclusions
In the end, an observation made by this study is that the four goddesses
in the four corners (cf. Figs. 14.2, 3, 4, and 5) relate with the iconography
of Dhanada Tārā although there are minor variations and thus may be
identified with the same. But since the central goddess (cf. Fig. 14.1) is
represented with eight arms holding the attributes: a staff with a hook
(ankusha), a rosary (akshamālā) and the third hand in varada mudrā while
the other three hands on the left side holds a manuscript (pustaka), a blue
lotus (utpala) and the lower most hand in dhyana mudrā. It may be
possible that she is the embodiment of all the forms of Tārā holding the
attributes of each in one hand and also the āsana of some which can be
seen in one major central figure along with the embodiment of
Prajnāpāramitā; or else, the central goddess is Dhanada Tārā and the rest
four are her manifestations. According to the description Dhanada Tārā
has the radiance of moon which is symbolically represented in the central
goddess in the form of white moon like halo. As regard to the noose held
by her in one of the hand, it may be noted that Dhanada Tārā is said to
hold objects similar to Durgottārini Tārā and one of them is noose
(ankusha) (Bhattacharya 1968: 307). Besides she bears the image of
Amoghasiddi on the crown which is represented here above the central
goddess.
Green Tārā and her images in Alchi 385
7. References
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Banarasidass, Varanasi.
Bhattacharya, Benoytosh 1924. The Indian Buddhist Iconography: mainly
based on the Sādhanāmālā and Cognate Tantric texts of Rituals. 2nd
ed., revised and enlarged, reprinted 1958: Firma K.L. Mukhopadhyay,
Calcutta.
—. 1968. Sadhanamala. Gaekwad’s Oriental Series nos. 26 and 41.
Oriental Institute, Baroda.
Genoud, Charles and Inoue, Takao 1978/ 1981. Buddhist Wall-Paintings
of Ladākh. Edition Olizane, Genève.
Getty, Alice 1928. The Gods of Northern Buddhism: Their History,
Iconography and Progressive Evolution through the Northern
Buddhist Countries. 2nd ed. reprint 1978: Munshiram Manoharlal,
New Delhi.
Goepper, Roger and Poncar, Jaroslav 1996. Alchi: Ladakh’s Hidden
Buddhist Sanctuary-The Sumtsek. Published in association with
Orientstiftung Zur Forderung Der Ostasiatischen Kunst, Cologne.
Shambhala Ltd. Ed., Boston.
Huntington, Susan L. 1985. The Art of Ancient India: Buddhist, Hindu,
Jain. Weatherhill, New York.
Klimburg-Salter, Deborah (ed.) 1982. The Silk Route and the Diamond
Path: Esoteric Buddhist Art on the Trans-Himalayan Trade Route.
UCLA Art Council, Los Angeles.
Lovelock, James E. 1979. Gaia – A New Look at Life on Earth. Oxford
University Press, Oxford.
Shaw, Miranda 2006. Buddhist Goddesses of India. Princeton University
Press, Princeton. Reprint 2007: Munshiram Manoharlal, New Delhi.
Pal, Pratapaditya and Fournier, Lionel 1982. A Buddhist Paradise: The
Murals of Alchi, Western Himalayas. Ravi Kumar for Visual Dharma
Publ. Ltd., Hong Kong.
Singer, Jane Casey 1994. Painting in Central Tibet, ca. 950-1400. Artibus
Asiae, 54 (1-2): 87-136.
Singh, Ajay Kumar 1985. Trans Himalayan Wall Paintings. Agam Kala
Prakashan, Delhi.
—. 2006. An Aesthetic Voyage of Indo Tibetan Painting: Alchi and Tabo.
Kala Prakashan, Varanasi.
Singh, Rana P.B. 2009. Gaia, Nature and Cosmic Integrity: Perspective
and Indian Root; in his, Uprooting Geographic Thoughts in India:
386 14. Jyoti Rohilla
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§ Jyoti Rohilla has worked on “The Sculptural Art of Amarāvati” for her doctoral
dissertation (National Museum Institute, New Delhi, 2007) and published a couple
of research papers dealing with the Buddhist sculptural art and imageries. She has
also presented papers in six seminars, including a special lecture on ‘Development
of Indian Art through the Ages’ in the Workshop on ‘Religion, Society, Art,
Education and Tourism’ at Oslo University College, Norway: 12-18 June 2006.
CONTRIBUTORS
dharma 20, 26, 128, 132, 135, 157, garbhagriha 130, 284, 330, 336,
364 337, 338, 340
dharmashālās 136, 206 Gaudavāho 212, 228
Dhumāvati 307, 311, 312, 317, 319, Gāyatri 4
323, 325, 326, 328 geomancy 10
dikpālas 195, 226, 233, 235, 254, ghostscape 1
255-256 Global Positioning Satellites, GPS,
Divodāsa 249, 250, 258 Vindhyāchal 230
Dudhiyā 130, 134, 136, 137 Godāvari river 69
Durgā 37, 143-157, 160, 161, 162, - goddess centres 49- 52; typology
Saptasati 126 49-51
Durgā, Varanasi 260-268, 329-348, Green Tārā at Alchi 371-384.
349, temple background 329- Mother Earth 371-373, regional
330, layout 264-265, 330-331, perspective 373-375, origin
site 331 temple layout 331-336, 375-376, on south wall 376-
structure 336-338, central image 383, Gaia 383-384, debate 384
338-341, history 340-342, H
sanctity of site 342-343, Kund Harappan seal 45
343-345, remarks 346-348 hermeneutical experiment 19
E hierophanies 71, 73, 254
Earth Goddess 48 hijab 34
ecocentrism 384 Hindu Goddesses 3, 5, 6, 29-31, 39,
economicscape 181, 199, 206, 208 41
F Hindu tradition 29, 30
faithscape 242 I
fearlessness 277 Indus Valley 29, 251
fertility goddesses 45 intrinsic sacredness 7
fractal 296, 297 J
Freud’s psychology 101, 102 Jung, Carl G. 101, 102
G K
Gahadavāla 334 Kālikā Mātā 125-138
Gaia 48, 73, 74, 383-384 Kāmākhyā 14, 127, 163-178
Gangā river 65, 66-68, 71, goddess Kāmākhyā Pitha 163-178, historical
351-369, sacred places 66, 67, background 163-172, existing
353, 355, pollution 351-363, structure 172-176
National Gangā River Basin Kāshi Darpana 256
Authority 368, Gangā Action Kāshi Khanda 249, 252, 257, 258,
Plan 365, 366, 367, JIDA 367, 276, 312, 314, 315, 320, 321,
Sankat Mochan Fd 365, upper 323, 324, 327, 343, 344, 345,
plain 356 347
Gangā river goddess 351-369, Kāshi, Pradakshinā 307, 312, 313,
perspectives 351-364, back to 314, 316, Mandala 254-256
confluences 364-365, festivals Kāshi Rahasya 252, 316, 327
365, fifteen years after GAP Kāshi, Hindu goddesses 249-306,
365-369, ritual 360 background 249-252, Shaktis
Gangāisation 65 on cosmic circuit 252-257, 301
Sacred Geography of Goddesses in South Asia 391