spaccaspacca

TRAVELTELLING

A
 Danilo Papi

TO THE DISCOVERY OF THE

CHIANTI WINE ROAD

FROM FLORENCE TO SAN GIMIGNANO AND SIENA

PASSING BY WAY OF VOLTERRA
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 TO THE READER

This guide is designed for those who like to organize their own trip.
We will try to offer you not only places but a territory, and together
with things to see and not to be missed, we will provide you with
practical information about the needs that may arise traveling. You
will be informed about hotels, bed & breakfasts, cottages, restau-
rants, pharmacies, medical assistance centers, banks and shops. The
author of this guide has been living in Chianti for over 30 years,
knows the territory, and carefully inspected it to give you all the
informations that may be useful for your holiday. Keep in mind
that things are constantly changing, especially in the restaurant
sector where changes in management, opening hours and menus
are possible. We will also show you the typical places frequented by
the inhabitants of the place, you can get in touch with the flavors,
scents and traditions of the place, ensuring your travel an undoubt-
ed added value.

5
 THE CHIANTI FIORENTINO

On the map

6
Tourists travelling to Tuscany are surely charmed by its cultured ar-
tistical perfection, represented by the stunning beauty of the towns
and their world renowned monuments, and in particular Florence,
birthplace of Renaissance. Travelers choosing a journey to Chian-
ti pick over a different path, a different territory, maybe attracted
by the green geometry of its wine yards, or the gently sloping hills
[Figure 1 White road of Chianti between the Pesa and Virginio, p. 300]. They
will find out much more, realizing to cover an essentially untouched
and unsullied land, only slightly narrowed by industrial develop-
ment, where art expresses itself through the unique painting of its
landscape shades palette, portraying wineyards, woods, sweet hills
and perfectly renovated stone farmhouses; many of these have been
turned into holiday farms, ideal solution that finds a perfect balance
between conventional relaxing and enjoying country activities.
Furthermore, in this such suggestive landscape are set many an-
cient abbeys, churches and parishes (the last ones summarizing the
religious practice to the function to keep the community together)
with their hidden treasures of masterpieces from the greatest Re-
naissance artists from Florence and Siena; castles and fortresses tes-
timony of a turbulent past. Travelers walking the roads of Chianti
will see the placards portraying the “Black Rooster” (at the mo-
ment not visible for renewal), the very symbol of this region: the
sight of the Black Rooster will let the travelers know they’re living
a unique and leisurely experience that leads them to discover im-
pressively fascinating places, for here everything is art. This guide
will go along with you through the districts of Chianti Fiorentino
(Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di
Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa) and other world renowned places: Flor-

7
ence, Siena, Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Volterra and Certal-
do. This travel guide ambition won’t be limited in just taking the
tourists by the hand guiding them to discover the countless, I’d say
infinite, natural and artistic beauties of this enchanted land, that
the whole world admires. The guide aims also to introduce you to
the typical tastes and flavors you only can savor in characteristic
places like ancient bakeries, grocery stores, butcher shops. You’ll
realize that in such typical stores there is the chance, beyond buy-
ing delicious homemade charcouterie (cold cuts) and prosciutto or
tasting excellent snacks (the Italian “merenda”) sitting at a table in
front of a good glass of wine, to meet the local dwellers, and try to
hold a conversation with them thanks to the warm conviviality of
the place: this experience will surely enrich journey. This is the re-
gion you’re about to discover: it will get you in contact with Tuscan
countryside, a land where absolute calm rules, but at the meantime
allows, due to the relative closeness of the main places of interest,
to visit the most captivating towns, traditional attraction for mass
tourism, like Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, and other cities
more off the beaten track, such as Certaldo and Volterra. Nothing
better than a journey in the cradle of Renaissance to fully enjoy the
peace and relaxing atmosphere of Chianti and its hills.

8
 HISTORICAL OUTLINE

Chianti region has very long – standing roots. The first human set-
tlements date back to the Third Millennium bc. It was only with
the Etruscans, who reached the area in 500 bc and called it Clante,
that agriculture and the cultivation of the wine were introduced:
since then the vine became one of the territory symbols. The Ro-
mans further developed agriculture, introducing the cultivation of
a plant meant to become the second symbol of Chianti: the olive
tree. After the fall of the Roman Empire the area experienced centu-
ries of decline. It’s in this period that the art of wine – making is de-
veloped and evolved by the Benedectine and Vallombrosan monks
from the Coltibuono and Passignano abbeys. During the Middle
Ages the area was a continuous battlefield for the fights first be-
tween Siena and Arezzo, striving for control over these lands; sub-
sequently the latter was replaced by Florence. That was the dawn
of the conflict that opposed the Guelfs, ally of the Pope and led by
Florence, and the Ghibellines, loyal to the Holy Roman Emperor,
whose leader was Siena. The competitors clashed repeatedly until
the beginning of the xiii century, when a truce and a subsequent
treaty established a definitive boundary line that, as a matter of fact,
ratified the Florentine control of Chianti assigning to the town the
majority of the contended territories. In the meantime, wine pro-
duction spreads thanks to monks’ teaching ability, and wine starts
to be made also outside the abbeys; a few family names, that were
bound to make history in the Chianti region, the Ricasoli and the
Antinori, began a regular activity of wine makers. The half of the
xiii century sees the birth of the “Arte dei Vinattieri”: the first tav-
erns open the doors, wine is discovered as a source of enrichment

9
HISTORICAL OUTLINE 

and from a rich prerogative beverage it converts to a popular drink,

sometimes used either as nourishment either as medicine. Consid-
ering the popularity and the huge consumption of the product, in
order to preserve its quality in 1444 the “Lega del Chianti” sanc-
tioned the prohibition of grape harvest before the 29th of Septem-
ber. During Medici’s dominion (“Signoria”) the territory knew a
flourishing period, briefly interrupted in 1478 by the invasion of
Ferdinando i of Aragona: the aragonese invasion ended with the
peace of 1480. In 1716 the Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo iii is-
sued two edicts for the preservation and conservancy of Chianti:
one edict established a Board that controlled wine production, the
other delimited the boundaries of the Chianti wine growing area.
Anyway, we must tribute to the Lorena, Pietro Leopoldo and Ferdi-
nando iii, enlightened sovereigns, the credit for having brought to
new life the territory devastated by the last Medici rulers ineptness.
The Lorena introduced the “mezzadria”, a sort of sharecropping,
facing the strenuous opposition by the noble families landowners.
Agricolture, thanks to sharecroppers and peasants work, gave rise
to a development of the Chianti territory to a most productive use
of farming resources, with one of the highest production of wine
and oil. However, the originator of the Chianti Classico was the
Baron Bettino Ricasoli, a politician, but also an expert agronomist
and passionate enologist. After years of enological experiments and
researches led by the best contemporary experts, he transformed
the production standards proposing a specific combination of vine
varieties: Sangiovese, Malvasia, Trebbiano or Canaiolo. The wine
in 1867 was presented with great success and won the award at the
Wine Exhibition of Paris. Other important dates for Chianti and
its territory are: 1924, birth of “Consorzio del Chianti Classico”,
the consortium of winegrowers and winebottlers, that nowadays
consists of a 5,000 hectares viticultural area; 1967: Chianti attains
the doc (“Denominazione di Origine Controllata”, Registered
Designation of Origin); 1987: Chianti Classico is awarded with
docg (“Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita”,

10
 Black rooster legend


Controlled and Guaranteed Denomination of Origin). The rest is

the story of our times, and tells the tale of an essentially untouched
land, able to square the progress demands with the environment
safeguard: that’s the reason why it’s increasingly becoming one of
the favorite choices for touristic journeys.

Black rooster legend


Like any ancient territory, also Chianti has its own ancestral tales.
The most famous is the “Black Rooster” legend, black rooster that
still in present times is one of the local main symbols. In 1200, af-
ter a long lasting and exhausting dispute, Siena and Florence called
a truce to establish the new definitive borders of dominion and
chose a very odd method to do that. It was agreed that two knights
would depart from their respective county seat at dawn, and the
signal to ride given by rooster crow: the point at where they met
would have fixed the boundary point between Siena and Florence.
Considering the circumstances, it’s quite clear how the choice of
the rooster was of capital importance. The Sieneses chose a white
rooster, and fed it properly. The Florentines, instead, chose a black
one, which they kept in a dark crop and practically starved. On the
fatal day, when the roosters were freed, the Florentine one began
immediately to crow, allowing the Florentine knight to set off post-
haste and much ahead of his Sienese counterpart. And since the
Florentine knight had such a head start he met up with the other
knight at Fonterutoli, a mere 12 kilometers from Siena.

11
 WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS.
LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS

Modern day Chianti Classico consortium is shared between the

territories of the municipalities of Greve in Chianti, San Casciano
in Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Val d’Elsa (province of Flor-
ence), and Radda in Chianti, Castellina in Chianti, Castelnuovo
Berardenga and Poggibonsi (province of Siena). The following are
the most characteristic and renowned products.
Chianti Classico. Worldwide famous red wine, [Figure 4 His Maje-
sty the Black Rooster, p. 301] shows unique peculiarities that distinguish
it from all the other wines bearing the same name, and mainly two:
it’s made exclusively from red grapes, and its bottles are sealed with
the label of the Black Rooster, trademark and historic symbol. It’s
put on the market after a required minimum of twelve months age-
ing, thirty for the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. The members
of the Consortium of Chianti Classico, under penalty of exclusion,
have to respect strict production guidelines imposed by a rigorous
protocol, in order to protect and valorize a product whose name,
during the sixties of the xxth century, became overused: as a matter
of fact, the majority of red wine produced in Tuscany was passed
off as Chianti Classico. Nowadays, still exist other wines bearing the
same name Chianti, but the name refers to bordering territories, for
instance Chianti colli fiorentini, Chianti Rufina, Chianti Montes-
pertoli and so on. These are good, sometimes excellent products, al-
beit having nothing in common with Chianti Classico.
Vinsanto. Another typical product, it’s a dessert wine made
from selected grapes laid out on reed mats in special places for
ageing and drying for many months. After the Christmastide the

12
 Tuscan cuisine

raisins are pressed and placed into special very small barrels called
“Caratelli”. The product then is bottled and sold on the market af-
ter about three years of fermentation. Vinsanto is ideal to be paired
with desserts, and that’s the reason why it’s mainly used at the end
of a meal. The traditional pairing is with Cantucci, typical regional
almond cookies: all you have to do is to dunk a cantuccino in a glass
of vinsanto and you’ll taste a unique flavor.
Olio Extravergine d’Oliva. A regional product of excellence, is
well known all over the world for its low acidity and its fruity and
slight pungent flavor. Immediately after having been pressed in the
oil-mill, it’s the main ingredient of the “fettunta”(a slice of tuscan
bread toasted and topped with a generous amount of oil). In Chi-
anti territory there are many oil-mills, but also many farmhouses
and holiday farms producing and selling directly their own oil.
Cured meats. Pork butchery products are surely placed in a
prominent position between Tuscan delicatessen. In Chianti region
many butcheries hand-craft pork meat selected cuts, producing ex-
quisite delicacies like Tuscan ham, salame, finocchiona, soprassata,
that can be purchased directly where they’re crafted. We will supply
to those interested in purchasing these deli foods a detailed list of
the oil-mills and the butcheries with their relative locations.
Chianti region and, in general, Tuscany, are lands of great wines,
and all of them world famous: in Gallo Nero territory is also produced
the celebrated Tignanello, many times international awards winner,
not to mention other outstanding red wines, Brunello di Montalci-
no, Sassicaia (this one made in Bolgheri), and Nobile di Montepul-
ciano. Whilst they’re exquisite and celebrated, none of them strictly
symbolizes Chianti territory, embodying its history and name.

Tuscan cuisine
Tuscany has always been a land with strong rural traditions, and
this characteristic has deeply influenced its cuisine, closely linked
to simple and genuine high-quality ingredients. Some of the most
traditional meals originated from “cucina povera” which literally

13
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS  

translates to “poor cooking”, food that in past times was cooked

easily and inexpensively in large amounts to feed large families: the
main ingredient was bread, used in many popular dishes that in
present days are a symbol of Tuscan style: minestra di pane, ribol-
lita, pappa al pomodoro, panzanella and, in Arezzo and Grosseto
territory, scottiglia and acqua cotta. This simple food was sometimes
complemented with other meatbased courses, cooked using the
tough cuts, offal, chitlins and leftovers. Nowadays Tuscan cook-
ing can rely also on higher quality ingredients; nevertheless, in its
evolving, never forgot its ancient roots: that’s the reason why Tus-
cany food is celebrated the world over. The following are the most
famous Tuscan dishes.
BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA  It’s the most famous course of Tuscany
cuisine, taken from the loin of the young steer (vitellone), prefer-
ably from the cattle breed Chianina, and has a “T” shaped bone
with the fillet on one side and the sirloin on the other. It’s normally
3-4 cm high and 800 g heavy, but its weight can also abundantly get
above 1 kg. [Figure 5 Steak, salami and cheese p. 302]. Cooking proce-
dure is very simple: it’s just set on a charcoal barbecue grill without
naked flames and served well browned on the outside and rare in-
side. When cooked, it’s salted and seasoned with a drizzle of extra
virgin olive oil and some pepper.
FETTUNTA  I’s a freshly toasted slice of homemade Tuscan bread
generously rubbed with garlic, lavishly drizzled with “olio nuovo”
(the first extra virgin olive oil off the press each season) and spar-
ingly sprinkled with salt.
PANZANELLA  Tasty summer salad made with stale bread soaked in
fresh water, squeezed out and then seasoned with garden vegetables,
onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, basil, oil, vinegar, salt and pepper.
RIBOLLITA  Another great dish originating from “cucina povera”: ev-
ery Friday a great amount of soup was prepared with the simplest
ingredients ever: stale bread, beans, “cavolo nero” (or other type of

14
 Tuscan cuisine

kale), potatoes and tomatoes; the leftovers were cooked again in the
following days, from which the term “ribollita”, literally “re-boiled”.
PAPPA AL POMODORO  Savory stale bread recipe: bread is soaked into
vegetable or chicken stock and then added to a sautée made with
extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion and tomatoes.
FEGATELLI ALLA FIORENTINA Pork liver sliced coated with salt and
pepper, wrapped in caul fat and cooked in a pan with a sprinkle of ol-
ive oil and bay leaves, the last ones giving a unique and unusual flavor.
PEPOSO  This beef stew came into being in Impruneta, a little town
just outside of Florence, renowned for its terracotta floors. The pe-
poso was made as a poor-man’s dish to feed the “fornacini” (kiln
workers) during the long sessions in the kilns. The fornacini used
to put forequarters and meat scraps in terracotta pots, smothering
the meat with black peppercorns and celery, and, over it all, glug-
ging liters of red wine. Then the pot was put inside the kiln. This
peculiar recipe was noticed by Filippo Brunelleschi during one
of his visits the terracotta factories to supervise every step of the
production process of the bricks used to build the dome of Santa
Maria del Fiore cathedral, better known as Duomo di Firenze. The
great master introduced this dish as a typical meal for the workers:
it was cooked directly on the scaffoldings, and that expedient dra-
matically decreased the time spent for lunch, normally consumed
in surrounding taverns. In the xix century tomato was added as an
ingredient of peposo, and with this variation is nowadays cooked.
TRIPPA ALLA FIORENTINA  The tripe recipe is a dish made from the
muscle wall of three of the four stomachs of the cow, reduced into
stripes and then slow cooked with herbs, tomato sauce, salt, pepper
and completed with grated Parmigiano cheese. You can find this
typical plate not just in restaurants, but also as street food: in the
squares of Florence and in some Chianti cities, there are plenty of
carts named “I Trippai”, specialized in the cooking and sale of tripe.

15
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS  

LAMPREDOTTO  Another sort of street food, and popular local de-

light, normally is sold in Trippai carts. Anyway, it starts being pop-
ular also in restaurants. It is made with the fourth stomach of the
cow, boiled in large pots with herbs, striped and served hot in spe-
cial buns called “Semelle”, flavored with pepper or chili.
FAGIOLI ALL’UCCELLETTO  Stew the cannellini beans until get tender
but not completely done. In a saucepan, sauté sage and garlic with
olive oil, then add the beans and let them develop a richer flavor;
finally, cover them with tomato puree and season with salt and pep-
per or chili.
WILD GAME MEAT  In Chianti a vast number of taverns and “tratto-
rie” offers delicious courses like stewed wild boar, roe deer or hare,
excellent also with pasta and in particular with pappardelle. Very
famous are the “pappardelle sulla lepre”, very wide egg noodles in
strong sauce made from wild hare.
CURED MEATS In Chianti district there are many groceries and
butcheries where cured meats are hand crafted and sold directly to
customers: we will recommend you the best addresses in the fol-
lowing pages. You will find many types of cold cuts: different kind
of hams, many varieties of salami, pork, wild boar or “cinta senese”
sausages. “Cinta senese” pig, once supposed to be extinct, stands
out for a notably fine and tasty meat.
• Finocchiona  Typical Tuscan salami spiced with fennel seeds in-
stead of peppercorns, in past times very expensive. Recently this
salami has been awarded with the pgi European quality label.
• Sbriciolona  Softer and almost spreadable version of finocchio-
na: normally it’s served in thicker slices because it has very short
times of ageing so that it tends to crumble at slicing.
• Soprassata Traditional Tuscan cold cut, it’s made from pork
scraps cooked and mixed with spices, lemon zest and minced parsley.
• Lardo di Colonnata  This fine cold cut was born in the name-
sake little town located in the Alpi Apuane. It’s made from pork

16
 Tuscan cuisine

lard layers alternated with pepper, salt, cinnamon, cloves, cilantro,

sage, rosemary and cured in local marble basins. The maturation
process can last from 6 to 10 months. The Carrara marble used in
the curing process is also rubbed with garlic and the layers of lard
are stored and covered with a marble sheet.
DESSERTS Here are reported only few typical Tuscan desserts:
they are a sort of “poor man’s” cakes and pastries, reflecting ancient
Tuscany cooking traditions relying on few and simple ingredients.
Naturally, for what concerns modern pastry-making, there are ex-
cellent patisseries in all places mentioned in this guide.
• Castagnaccio Characteristic winter cake made with chestnut
flour (chestnut means “castagna”), flavored with raisins, pine nuts,
rosemary, a sprinkle of extra virgin olive oil and then cooked in oven.
• Schiacciata fiorentina  Typical Florentine dessert, it’s a tasty
sponge cake widely consumed during Carnival. Schiacciata is made
with white flour, eggs, baking powder and orange peels. The dough
is cooked in oven and then covered with icing sugar.
• Cenci  Cenci is another sweet typical of the Carnival period.
Cenci literally means rags, since the sweet is made with stripes of
dough like bits of rags. They are made with white flour and eggs,
and the pastry obtained is cut out in thin stripes to be fried in a
generous amount of oil and then sprinkled over with icing sugar.
• Ricciarelli  Almond sweets typical of Siena, these cookies are
made with flour, almonds, caster sugar and grated peel of orange,
then oven baked and covered with icing sugar. They are tradition-
ally associated with Christmas festivities, but you can find them
in bakeries and pastry shops all year round.
• Panforte  One of the most famous products of the Sienese gas-
tronomy is Panforte cake, typical during Christmas time; it’s a
dough of refined ingredients such as flour, honey, cinnamon, al-
monds, nutmeg, cloves, pepper, coriander seeds, candied orange,
citron and pumpkin, baked in oven and then topped with a layer of
vanilla-flavored sugar.

17
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS  

• Cantucci  Simple Tuscan dry biscuits, they are made with plain
flour, eggs, butter and almonds, and then baked in oven. Cantucci-
ni are traditionally served at the end of a meal with a glass of Tus-
can dessert wine, Vinsanto, for dipping.
Tasting Chianti specialty foods
As we already mentioned, Chianti offers special places able to in-
spire you and add preciousness to your trip, places where you can
savor the landscape atmosphere, taste a delicious sandwich rather
than a focaccia bread stuffed with local produced cold cuts, or a var-
ious selection of cheeses and typical dishes. We will point out the
farm houses and holiday farms with their own oil-mills (producing
oil exclusively with olives from their personal olive groves), gro-
ceries, bakeries, ancient butcheries, workshops where cured meats
are hand-crafted following the local tradition. All these local en-
terprises resisted the spreading out of Mass Market Retailers, and
the reason why is simple: they have a soul in harmony with the ter-
ritory, and it’s there that the locals hang out with each other; such
an experience will surely make your journey more authentic and
original [Figure 6 Typical Butcher of Chianti, p. 303].

Chianti wineries
These historic wine – producing estates are an absolute must visit
during you tour: they contain the history of wine preserved through-
out the centuries, as you can sense visiting their cellars. Sometimes
these estates are real architectural masterworks. Wineries are spread
out over all Chianti territory, often located in castles, old farm hous-
es, ancient villas or dwelling houses. Visiting a few of these wineries,
you’ll probably ask for information (if you’re not interested in going
for a tour of the historic estates, the local atp will provide you all the
necessary information services to take a look at old cellars in holiday
farms or farm houses, maybe less known by tourists, but indubitably
worth a visit). After this experience you will understand how wine
and territory are deeply bound and what Gallo Nero means for this
land [Figure 13 Castello di Gabbiano, p.307].

18
 VISITING CHIANTI

Plan your trip

Your choice mainly depends on the type of journey you’re planning:
each season has something special to offer, that’s why it’s impossible to
define which is the best time of the year to visit it. [Figure 7 The brume
in Chianti, p.303]. What we would like to suggest you is an ideal holi-
day period, in order to let you admire its enchanting landscape and at
least two of the main towns in the surroundings. In our opinion your
journey should be at least ten days long; that would let you spend your
time varying your itineraries in a mix of natural sceneries sightseeing
and cultural tourism in the splendor of cities of art. We try to provide
you with useful informations [Figure 8 Spring in Chianti, p. 304]. The sea-
son going from the end of March to the end of September is the most
popular, the vineyards are green, nature is flourishing and the days are
longer. Then there are numerous initiatives, feasts, gastronomic festi-
vals and “wine glasses under the stars” event, to enjoy wine outdoors in
the summer nights (all these initiatives will be specified in the various
entries “feasts and celebrations” of the various municipalities) [Figure
9 Autumn in Chianti, p. 304]. However it must be considered that in Ju-
ly and August the weather can be torrid, moreover in these months
the prices are higher. In autumn the climate is pleasant, you can watch
the spectacle of the vintage, the vineyards and the woods are tinged
with the typical autumnal colors offering stunning visions, the days
are shorter, the prices lower, and while walking through the villages
near the cellars, it is not uncommon to smell the fragrance of ferment-
ing wine. You can also enjoy the Vino Novello, a fresh and peppy red,
fragrant of aromas and perfumes. It is marketed by the first Novem-
ber about a month and a half after the harvest. At Christmas time the
countries shows the typical atmosphere of these festivities and there is
a discrete presence of tourists who choose to spend in peace and relax
the New Year Day holidays.

19
VISITING CHIANTI 

In winter sometimes snows, temperatures are lower, and prices are

cheaper. Not many tourists choose to visit Chianti, however even in
these months the season gives fascinating spectacles, the days have a
special light and the fog sometimes give the traveller sublime visions
and details.

Arriving in Chianti

BY PLANE  For tourists arriving by plane there are three possible al-
ternatives: car hiring, taxi or the most convenient bus. Other than
taxies (quite expensive), the bus service runs from Vespucci Airport
to central Florence Piazza Stazione. When the tram track works
(still in progress at the moment) will be over, it makes available for
tourists a much faster link between the Airport and the center of
Florence. The bus stop is immediately outside the Airport. Once
you have arrived in central Piazza Stazione, at the corner with Via
Santa Caterina da Siena there is a bus terminal: these buses link
with regular day runs Florence trough intercity routes with Greve,
San Casciano, Tavarnelle, Barberino Val d’Elsa.
BY BUS  The bus terminal is in Florence, Via Santa Caterina da Si-
ena, close to the main central railway station. Bus Italia connects
Florence with Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavar-
nelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa, and bus itineraries link also
all these towns with each other. Here we’re not providing the rela-
tive timetables, because they differ markedly between working days
(Monday to Friday), working days excluding Saturday, and Sunday
and holidays, and may vary on year or season basis. If you’re inter-
ested in using bus as means of transport, we suggest to consult www.
acvbusacvbus.it website or call the toll-free number 800373760, ac-
tive from 5.30 am to 8.30 pm. Bus Italia agency is associated with Si-
ena bus services provider Siena Mobilità, so through further routes
you can reach many localities of the province of Siena. You can
get to the town of Siena directly by way of sgc fi-si, for there are
frequent non-stop bus runs leaving from Siena Mobilità terminal.

20
 Arriving in Chianti

Siena Mobilità Company links Siena with the rest of Tuscany and
its terminal is located in Via Lombardi, close to Florence central
railway station; destinations operated include Siena, San Gimigna-
no and other towns of Sienese Chianti with express (non-stop) and
average runs with stops. To get accurate information we suggest to
call toll-free number 800922984 from local cabin booths with a
prepaid phone card, call centers or your hotel phone, for they are
local calls (for mobile calls 199168182; be aware that mobile calls
are routed internationally so they can be very expensive for a local
call) every day of the week including Sundays from 7.30 am to 7.30
pm, or send an e-mail to [email protected] and visit
the website www.tiemmespa.it.
BY TRAIN  Florence’s central train station is Stazione di Santa Ma-
ria Novella, and it’s located exactly in the city center. Rail trav-
elling to get to Florence is absolutely comfortable and pleasant.
Travellers on the route to Chianti can, as we previously said,
head to the close bus terminal in Via Santa Caterina da Siena,
just around the corner from Piazza Stazione. Travelling by train
is also a convenient solution for those who will pick out Panca,
Dudda and Lucolena aera and subsequently intend to visit Flor-
ence. Going to the close Figline Valdarno railway station, acces-
sible by car or bus runs in about ten minutes, you will arrive in
Santa Maria Novella within 35 minutes: be aware, anyway, that
train services on this route are not very frequent.

BY CAR OR MOTORCYCLE  Car and motorcycle are with no doubt the

best means to visit Chianti; the territory is provided with a qual-
ity road network, allowing you to easily move around getting just
about anywhere. Smaller roads, especially in rural areas, may be
sometimes narrow and curvy (this can happen also on larger two-
lane main roads, the so called Strade Statali): anyway, this incon-
venience can easily turn into an advantage, considering that slower
speed allows to admire every single landscape detail.

21
VISITING CHIANTI 

BY BIKE  If you are in good shape, physically fit and healthy, and en-
joy cycle-tourism, you can choose between two options: get to the
location chosen by different means of transport (car, motorcycle,
bus) and then rent a bike once you arrive there (we will supply ad-
dresses and phone numbers of many local bike rental services) or, on
the other hand, carry your own bicycles on trains or buses and then
direct to the place where you intend to start your bike tour from.
Be aware that on trains you may be required to transport your bike
assembled and on buses normally you will have to put them in the
cargo area underneath, on its side. The routes can be practiced with
racing bikes, hybrid bikes and mountain bikes, although the topog-
raphy of the area lends itself to be traveled by mountain bike or good
trekking bikes, depending on the many challenging climbs of the
routes. In any case, cycle tourism is an ideal way to discover Chianti,
rewarding the cycle riders with the countryside great views; there are
many accommodation types along the routes, guest houses, bed and
breakfasts (B&B), and holiday farms (the so called “agriturismi”, rus-
tic country houses or working farms offering rooms, most of times
family run and often providing breakfast and dinner). Booking your
accommodation in advance is highly recommended (especially in
busy periods), according to the itinerary you have planned; check
the websites of the sort of accommodation you prefer for good – val-
ue deals, and to find the cheapest rates.

Moving around Chianti

GETTING TO PISA AND LUCCA  As we mentioned before, it’s possible
to make use of the extensive bus services and train networks, but in
any case first you have to reach Piazza Stazione in Florence and, from
there, take the train to your destination, or the bus instead, from the
terminal at the corner with Via Santa Caterina da Siena. This way
of travelling risks to turn into a tour de force, especially for the down
times or delays that may occur between linked bus rides. Undoubted-
ly the best option is, if possible, travelling by car; from wherever you
are you can reach both Pisa and Lucca within a couple of hours or less.

22
 Moving around Chianti

To reach Pisa  move straight to Highway A1 at its entrance Firenze

Impruneta, then take the exit Firenze Scandicci and enter the sgc
fi-pi-li (Strada Grande Comunicazione Firenze Pisa Livorno, toll
free, dual lane) towards Pisa, where you will get in around 50 min-
utes: take the exit in the direction of Pisa Centro. Near to Piazza
dei Miracoli there are many pay and display parkings: we recom-
mend you a free car park, around the same zone, in Via Pietrasanti-
na; it’s always very bustling but it’s worth a try.
Heading to Lucca  take A1 Highway at Firenze Impruneta inter-
section and, once arrived to Firenze Nord enter A11 Highway to-
wards Pisa Nord: you will get to Lucca Est exit in about 40 min-
utes. Close to the walls there are pay and display parkings but also,
surprisingly, some free car parkings: three free parkings quite close
to each other are in Via N. Sauro, Via F. Filzi and Via Pubblici Ma-
celli. To reach these streets skirt the walls on the right hand side, it
will take a little time to get there.
If you’re staying in Volterra or San Gimignano, you could contem-
plate taking a trip to Pisa travelling the regional highway (Strada
Regionale, sr) No. 439: this road, passing through Peccioli and
Navacchio, takes about 70 minutes to Pisa, and can also be eval-
uated by travellers heading to Lucca, quickly accessible trhough
A11 from Pisa.
GETTING TO SAN CASCIANO  For travellers driving from both north-
bound or southbound directions, merge onto Autostrada A1 and
exit at Firenze-Impruneta. Subsequently to proceed to San Cascia-
no Val di Pesa enter at the interchange the Superstrada Firenze-Sie-
na (a dual carriageway linking Florence to Siena) and drive until the
San Casciano exit. From this little town are reacheable neighboring
hamlets like Greve in Chianti, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val
d’Elsa. If you’re coming from West, take the A12 Highway (direc-
tion Genova-Livorno), exit at Pisa Centro and enter the sgc fi-
pi-li towards Florence; then take the exit Ginestra Fiorentina and
follow the markers to San Casciano, approximately 15 km far.

23
VISITING CHIANTI 

GETTING TO GREVE IN CHIANTI  For those coming from both north-

bound or southbound directions of A1 Highway, take the exit Fi-
renze Impruneta or, as an alternative, the exit Valdarno and then
merge onto sgc fi-si; then, take the first exit, San Casciano and
follow the markers towards Greve; another possible option is,
when you reach the junction, to take the second exit on the right
and merge onto Via Cassia, pass Tavarnuzze small town and later
The Florence American Cemetery and Memorial, and simply move
straight on: getting to your destination from the Highway exit will
take about 30 minutes. The third chance is to take the exit Firenze
Sud from Highway A1, and after the toll booth take the first turn
on the right, pass the Conference Florentia Hotel, former Sheraton
Hotel, and once reached the junction turn left towards Grassina
and Greve in Chianti, that’s approximately 25 km away.
GETTING TO TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  For those coming from both
northbound or southbound directions of A1 Highway, take the
exit Firenze Impruneta, then at the junction merge onto the Super-
strada Firenze Siena (sgc fi-si) towards Siena; take the exit Tavar-
nelle and go ahead following the markers for about 4 km until you
reach Tavarnelle.
GETTING TO BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA  This little town is just 4 km away
from Tavarnelle, so, for drivers coming from sgc fi-si, the exit to
take is the same. Otherwise, coming from Certaldo, San Gimigna-
no or Poggibonsi, you can get to Barberino Val d’Elsa taking the
Via Cassia, the run is about 9.5 km. If you’re coming from Siena,
eventually, you have the option to merge onto the sgc fi-si, take
the exit Poggibonsi Nord and then follow the markers to Barberi-
no Val d’Elsa.
AUTOVELOX: WATCH YOUR SPEED!  As well as in the rest of Italy, on
Chianti roads sides there are “Autovelox”, fixed and mobile speed
camera devices checking if you’re staying into the speed limits. Ob-
viously, to avoid fees and enjoy your staying, go the speed limit. The
speed limits are the following: 50km/h (31 mph) inside built up ar-

24
 Moving around Chianti

eas (cities, towns and villages), 70km/h (44 mph) on two lane reg-
ular non urban roads except where otherwise posted, 90 km/h (56
mph) on the toll free 2 lanes highways sgc Firenze-Pisa-Livorno
and Firenze-Siena. On toll highways (“autostrade”) the speed limit
is 130 (81 mph) or even 150 km/h (93 mph) but only on certain
sections; 150 km/h speed limit signs will be in place – but do not
assume you can travel at 150 km/h (pay attention because certain
sections of highways may have speed limits lower than 130 km/h).
In addition to the roadside speed cameras, in many highway sec-
tions is active the speed Safety Tutor system, whose devices usually
hang beneath autostrada bridges (it tracks your average speed over
various tracts of highway). Here we supply a list of the devices cur-
rently known as active on the routes included in this guide, warn-
ing you anyway that these informations may vary or not being up
to date due to changes of locations disposed by Italian State Police.
Autovelox on sgc fi-pi-li  towards Florence: before
Livorno/Stagno at km 77; between Vicarello and Lavoria at
km 63; before Montopoli Val d’Arno at km 45; between San
Miniato and Empoli Ovest at km 32; after Ginestra Fiorentina at
km 8.  towards Pisa/Livorno: between Lastra a Signa and
Ginestra Fiorentina at km 12; after Montelupo fiorentino exit;
between Santa Croce sull’Arno and Montopoli val d’Arno at km
41; between Montopoli val d’Arno and Pontedera at km 47;
between Pisa Nord and Airport Galileo Galilei exit at km 73.
Autovelox on sgc fi-si  towards Florence: between
Badesse and Monteriggioni at km 4.1; between Monteriggioni
and Colle Val d’Elsa at km 12.7; Colle Val d’Elsa at km 15.7;
exit Tavarnelle Val di Pesa at km 40.6; after San Casciano in Val
di Pesa at km 49.8. towards Siena: after the exit Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa at km 40.5; after San Donato in Poggio at km 31.5;
after Poggibonsi at km 21.2; between the exits Colle Val d’El-
sa and Colle Val d’Elsa Sud at km 16.6; between Monteriggioni
and Badesse at km 6.8.

25
VISITING CHIANTI 

Tavarnuzze  Via Cassia direction Siena-San Casciano on both

entry and exit lanes, that means positioned to the left and right of
the two lanes traffic flow.
San Casciano in Val di Pesa  Via Volterrana, direction Cerbaia,
Chiesanuova point at km 3.5, near the entry point of the town and
near Mulino di Sugana point at km 6.5; Via Certaldese towards
Certaldo; San Pancrazio at km 2.5 before Ponte Rotto; Via Em-
polese in the stretch around San Casciano; Cerbaia, Talente
point at the end of the hill after Montepaldi, two speed cameras
on both directions of motion; another speed camera after 1 km
towards Cerbaia and yet another one in the same direction after
the cemetery at 1.5 km circa; provincial highway 92 outbound
San Casciano towards Mercatale.
Greve in Chianti  Via Chiantigiana, Strada in Chianti point
towards Florence; state highway 222 near la Presura point and
between Chioccio and Greti places towards Florence; Via Cas-
sia, il Ferrone point, two speed cameras on both directions of mo-
tion.
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa  provincial highway Morrocco near to
the village with the same name, two speed cameras on both direc-
tions of motion; state highway towards the centre of the town one
device on both directions; provincial highway Pietracupa/San
Donato in Poggio direction Castellina in Chianti.
Barberino Val d’Elsa  Via Cassia towards the town centre one
speed camera on both directions of motion.

Staying in Chianti
Chianti offers a wide range of accommodation options: you can
choose between fine or even luxury lodgings, from villas, castles
and resorts (obviously more expensive) to hotels, B&Bs and rustic
farm-houses converted into holiday homes (“Agriturismo”, or “ag-
ricultural tourism/agritourism”), the most typical and characteris-

26
 Staying in Chianti

tic accommodations where oil, wine and other typical specialties

are directly produced and sold. Some are provided with excellent
onsite restaurants. Due to the limits of this guide we will recom-
mend you only a few. Regardless of the price, all accommodations
suggested respond to specific service quality requirements: courte-
sy, welcoming atmosphere, cleanliness, and all comforts that may
be required from heating and air conditioning, bathrooms with
shower or bath tub, direct telephone and in many cases free wi-
fi. Excellent, good or discrete is the value for money. The price
range is divided schematically in high/middle/cheap. Obviously
the matter is more articulated because, regardless of the level of
the accommodation you prefere, it can happen to grab a good offer
also in some historic abodes that generally submit higher prices,
suitable to the type of accommodation. However we chose not to
provide detailed prices, inevitably meant to rise with the passing
of time. In fact, stressing the seriousness and the accuracy of the
research carried out, the traveller must take into account that in
accommodating facilities as well as in restaurants, pubs, cafés vari-
ables are always possible (management change, activity liquidation
etc.). Fundamental are the search and comparison of your ideal
accomodation to succeed in finding a desirable and advantageous
houseroom, because various are the possibilities to take advantage
of (need to lease the last available room, tourist presence lower
than expected etc.). We suggest you to carry out your research on
various Internet sites, you will thus also have the not insignificant
advantage to verify the characteristics of what you have chosen.
Some facilities include in the price the sojourn tax, around €1,5 per
person per day, in effect from March to October. You should also
know that from any destination you choose you can easily reach
any locality, because Chianti is really at the center of a world and
distances are minimal, so you can wander as much as you like from
the florentine to the Sienese Chianti without necessarily having to
change accommodation. We will provide you even the addresses of
some campsgrounds even if these structures are not many.

27
VISITING CHIANTI 

MEDICAL EMERGENCIES  In case of an emergency for immediate med-

ical attention call the free public first-aid number 118. Ambulance
service is provided by the volunteers of Arciconfraternita della Mi-
sericordia, Humanitas and Croce d’Oro. The volunteers of these
associations work alongside high level medical and paramedical
personnel, able to manage basic and advanced levels of emergency
medical assistance: in case of necessity they will transport the pa-
tient to the nearest hospital. These organizations represent a net-
work presence in all Tuscany territory, from big towns to small vil-
lages, provided with a pharmacy (opening hours 9 am-1 pm and 4
pm-8 pm) and where the night doctor on call service is operational.
TRAVELLING SAFETY  In Chianti and in Tuscany there aren’t great
safety issues you should be aware of; in case of emergencies, anyway,
you can call the following toll-free numbers to get immediate assis-
tance and service: 112/113, Police and Carabinieri; 115, Firemen. In
general, the region is a remarkably safe place to visit. Obviously, ze-
ro exposure to risk is an impossible dream in any world country. So,
it’s extremely useful to take the ordinary and necessary precautions
suggested by common sense to avoid dangers and annoyances. Don’t
leave anything valuable visible in your car, especially overnight, to
avoid tempting a would-be thief; keep only a small amount of local
currency and minimize the valuables you take out with you. Plan-
ning for all contingencies, we will supply for each city the addresses
and telephone numbers of the local Carabinieri Stations. Particular
care should be taken in high touristy towns or areas (Firenze, Sie-
na and San Gimignano). No need to scaremonger, of course, but
exercise particular caution with your belongings in heavily tourist-
ed zones, such as historic centers, because these places inevitably
abound of thieves, experienced pickpockets, bag-snatchers, scam-
mers and so on. These robbers target tourists taking advantage of
their relaxed attitude. Most of times they tend to work in groups
or couples, spot their targets, and while one of them profits from
natural distraction of the tourist, the accomplice steals wallets, cash,
cameras and so on. Be aware that thieves are masters in striking vul-

28
 Staying in Chianti

nerable, tired or distracted victims. Many are the techniques in use:

for instance, if someone bumps you, especially on the street, you’re
being robbed. Be especially aware in busy places, standing in queues
to get into major sights and museums and on crowded public trans-
portation. Just use safety precautions: leave all you not necessary
valuables in hotel safes (first make sure that hotels accept liability
for the loss of any items put into them), make copies of your pass-
port, driver’s license, credit cards, atm cards and any other import-
ant documents you might be carrying. Leave one copy at home and
keep the other set with you in a safe place separate from the origi-
nals. Another option is to take a photo of your documents and keep
them on your smartphone. If you carry a purse, keep it in front of
you with your hands on, even if it’s not recommendable carrying
anything valuable in a purse, which is way too easy to snatch. As
we recommended before, try not to carry all of your valuables and
cash in the same place. We suggest wearing a money pouch that can
be concealed under your clothing, attached to your belt, or worn
around the neck, waist or calf. In any case be careful and don’t let
your wallet be grabbed by thefts: this may ruin your holiday.
FESTIVALS AND EVENTS  Doing a deep dive into festivals and events
will help you get in touch with the territory you’re visiting, exploring
its customs and ancestral traditions. Some of them are Middle Age
historical representations (such as the Scoppio del Carro/“Burst of
the Cart” in Florence, the Palio of Siena which occurs twice every
year, the Ferie delle Messi in San Gimignano and other medieval fes-
tivals). For each city or town this guide is concerned with, you will
find a list of main Tuscany events, festivals, fairs and “sagre” (food
festivals). Our reccomendations concern the events with a set term,
like the celebrations that occur on the feast day of a city’s patron
Saint, or taking place in a due date, for instance on the third Sunday
of July. About other festivals, we just report the month in which they
take place. We must highlight that some of these events, especially
in some cities, may vary, even broadly, their scheduled day of cele-
bration. These festivals normally massively attract local population

29
VISITING CHIANTI 

and tourists, therefore they represent a very good chance to furtherly

enrich your holiday. If you are intersted in such events please contact
the many local tourist information boards, that will be able to supply
informations especially for those events not yearly celebrated and for
this reason not included in this guide.
BANKS, ATMs AND INTERNET POINTS  Banks and atms are widespread
all over Chianti. Bank opening hours to public: Monday to Friday
8.30 am-1.30 pm and 2.45-4.30 pm atms are 24/7 available. Inter-
net points offer a widespread availability all over the territory.

Top must-sees in Chianti

Here we provide a synthetic list of the most interesting attractions
you should not miss to visit; you will find more detailed infos in a
following section of the guide.
SAN CASCIANO  The elegant and central main street, Via Machiavelli,
the Museum of San Casciano (formerly Museo di Arte Sacra), San
Andrea in Percussina (Church of St. Andrew), the cellars of Alber-
gaccio and Villa le Corti and the new Antinori winery building.
GREVE IN CHIANTI  The beautiful Piazza Matteotti, the ancient Monte-
fioralle hamlet, Vicchiomaggio and Verrazzano manors wine cellars.
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  The Parish Church of San Piero in Bossolo
and its Museum of Sacred Art, San Donato in Poggio charming
medieval village, the Badia di Passignano historic monastery.
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA The medieval center of the town center
enclosed by thick, tall walls, the Romanesque parish Church of
Sant’Appiano, Monsanto castle ancient cellars.

Chianti paths: a world apart

If you have a few hours to spend, or even a whole day, you should
explore at least one of the scenic paths Chianti offers to visitors.

30
 Chianti paths: a world apart

Whether you are looking for a challenging path or an easy walk, these
itineraries are a perfect way to get in touch with the deepest peculiar-
ities of this territory. You will delve into the natural glory of the Chi-
anti region, hiking woods, dells, small hamlets, walking bumby and
gravel roads, seldom spaced out with paved tracts. Here silence rules
and even if there are surrounding residential areas and towns are not
too far, the barrage of noise is absolute and you will feel like living in
another world. You will come across stunning farmhouses, some left
uninhabited, and admire amazing landscapes, with no fear of being
disturbed. Chianti offers itineraries that can suit all kinds of trekkers,
with long distance, average and easy trails: normally these excursion
routes are easily accessible. Naturally a little training is required for
paths exceeding 10 km. In the following pages we will recommend
some itineraries like the “Cammino della Pesa” (Tavarnelle and San
Casciano municipalities) and the “Anello di Mugnana” (Greve in
Chianti). The guide will supply a short list of other itineraries, trek-
king trails and rings you can choose to explore in all Chianti area: we
suggest you to address the local apt (“Azienda di Promozione Tur-
istica”, Tourist Promotion Agency) because they will be able to give
you more indepht informations and maps. Furthermore, sometimes
new trails are opened, like the Badia a Passignano ones, and these
new routes may be worth a walk. Internet represents another excel-
lent source of informations: browsing the various towns and villages
websites, you can find many proposals of hikes and rings, specifying
different lenghts, levels of difficulty and the places you’ll come across
along your path. Websites of course may not always be up to date,
anyway they are a precious resource. If you’re travelling in group,
the best option is to contact expert and certified mountain guides
or naturalist guides (whose presence is widespread, for example in
San Casciano and Greve), that will allow you to discover enchanting
sceneries and supply useful suggestions. We will provide you for each
town a list of the main hiking trails and rings.
SAN CASCIANO In addition to the above mentioned “Cammi-
no della Pesa”, we recommend you the “Percorso del Principe”

31
VISITING CHIANTI 

(Prince’s path) that leads, running between suggestive vineyards,

from San Casciano to the ancient hamlet of Sant’Andrea in Percus-
sina, where Niccolò Machiavelli spent his days during the exile at
the Albergaccio.
GREVE IN CHIANTI  As well as the “Anello di Mugnana”, we suggest
two additional rings:
“Anello di Greve”, 12 km (7.45 mi), that will lead you to Uzzano
Castle, Sugame pass and San Polo, crossing San Miniato in Rub-
biana.
“Anello di Montefioralle”, 17 km (10.5 mi):starting your excursion
from the little walled village of Montefioralle, you will reach Co-
lognole, Sambuca, Valigondoli, Badia a Passignano, San Cresci and
Greve.
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  “Anello di San Donato in Poggio”, 18 km
(11.2 mi): from San Donato you will arrive at Santedame and le
Cortine getting back to the starting point of the trail.
“San Donato – Badia a Passignano” itinerary: pleasant walk reach-
ing the Abbey of St. Michael crossing Rignana.
“Anelli di Badia a Passignano”: 6.6 km (4.1 mi), Badia a Passignano,
la Paurosa, Badia a Passignano.
5.5 km (3.4 mi), Badia a Passignano, Poggio al Vento, Badia a Passig-
nano.
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA “Barberino-Tavarnelle” itinerary, 13 km
(8 mi). Starting your walk from Tavarnelle, you reach the Parish
Church of San Piero in Bossolo; moving along you will find an
intersecting street, Via del Cerro: turning left you’ll head towards
Romita hamlet, turning right towards Morrocco and San Donato
in Poggio. Going straight, you will direct to Sambuca and the ro-
man bridge. If at this point you don’t need to catch your breath yet,
moving on you can get to Badia a Passignano.

32
 Chianti paths: a world apart

“Anello di Semifonte”, 16 km (about 10 mi). This is the walking

circuit: Barberino, Petrognano, Semifonte, Ogliena creek, Spoiano
farmhouse, Barberino. All this walking track crosses a fascinating
countryside and lets you admire stunning views, first of all San
Gimignano.
FLORENCE  In this case we obviously stand out of the crowd. When
it comes to Florence, it’s way too easy talking about Duomo, Uffizi,
Santa Croce and Galleria dell’Accademia. We will suggest you a few
itineraries that, surprisingly, are only slightly touched by the flock-
ing tourist masses and include Churches and Basilicas homes to
the greatest Renaissance artists masterpieces. In this journey into
Medieval and Renaissance magnificent art you will be inspired by
the celebrated works of Giotto, Michelangelo, Ghirlandaio, Beato
Angelico, Masaccio, Brunelleschi, Sansovino, Andrea del Castagno
and so on. These abslute chefs-d’oeuvres deserve to be admired in
peacefulness, taking your time, and, most of all, are appreciably for
free [Itinerary B. Discovering Florence for free or cheaply, 3 days, p. 215].
SIENA  The Palio, wild horse race in Piazza del Campo, held twice
a year, 2nd of July and 16th of August, if you are in town in those
days; Piazza del Campo, the Gothic Palazzo Comunale dating to
14 th century and its bell tower, the Torre del Mangia. Don’t miss
to explore the underground treasures of Siena and the stunning
view from the Basilica of San Clemente.
MONTERIGGIONI  The tour of its enclosing fortified walls, wrapping
the town all around the hilltop (the village was a 13th century
walled castle built by Siena), with the 14 towers dotting the perim-
eter, and the amazing view on the surrounding landscape; Badia
Isola hamlet.
SAN GIMIGNANO  The wonderful Piazza della Cisterna and its mag-
nificent towers, the masterpieces preserved in the Duomo Ca-
thedral, the breathtaking view of San Gimignano from the top of
Torre Grossa, the marvelous old town.

33
VISITING CHIANTI 

CERTALDO  The late 12th century Palazzo Pretorio in which you

can admire exquisite artworks, the Torrione offering from its top a
beautiful panoramic view of Certaldo, the house of Giovanni Boc-
caccio (nowadays hosting the Museum and National Association
named after him), the Museum of Sacred Art.
VOLTERRA  The Duomo and Battistero masterworks, the Palazzo Pre-
torio and the Pinacoteca (Art Gallery), the extraordinary old town.

Where to eat out in Chianti

Chianti offers eateries for all budgets widespread all over its ter-
ritory: the different kind of food establishments range from the
higher category starred restaurants, obviously extremely expensive,
to the typical offhand “trattoria”, cheaper but serving high quality
regional specialties in a friendly atmosphere (€€), and eventually
refreshment stands or food courts run by catholic and laic associa-
tions; you can enjoy your lunch also at the local parish priests Cen-
ters or at the “Case del Popolo”, as they’re named in Tuscany, sort
of Citizen’s Centers, where you can find savory low cost menus (€).
Here a couple of handy tips to avoid disappointments and em-
barrassments when it’s time to pay the bill:
Pay attention to distinctive labels and, in general, to the bottle
of wine you choose and scan carefully prices in the wine list: this
doesn’t mean you shall go for the cheapest bottle on the list when
it comes to ordering wine, but you can find a relatively expensive
good quality alternative. Wine price may have a massive impact on
the bill, more than all the courses of your meal: there are brands
whose bottles cost more than 200 €, and this price can widely over-
run hundreds of euros. In our opinion, considering that we are
in the cradle of wine, the best choice is to opt for the red “house”
wine, cheaper and quaffable: don’t forget that Chianti is one of the
most famous wine wonderlands.
Clearly a must do for tourists visiting Tuscany is to taste the
“bistecca Fiorentina” (Fiorentina steak). Also, in this choice you

34
 Where to eat out in Chianti

must be careful: it’s a select huge slab of prime T-bone Chianina

steak, chargrilled, quite expensive and heavy: a steak can weight
more than 1 kg (2.2 lb) and cost 50/60 €, and obviously more if
heavier. A 2.2 lb steak is enough for three or more tablemates, al-
though it depends if you’re eating heartily or not!
That’s the reason why restaurants in this guide are divided on-
ly in three categories, expensive (€€€), mid-range (€€) and cheap
(€), without specifying reference prices for each eatery. In cheap
restaurants the average price is about 20 € per head, in mid-range
30/40€. As far as expensive restaurants are concerned, it’s hard to
predict how much you’re going to pay, depending mostly on the
wine selection of your choice.

35
 SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA

On the map

36
37
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

Historical outline
The area of San Casciano Val di Pesa turns out to be inhabited since
the viii century bc, as it’s attested by findings like the Etruscan
“Tomba dell’arciere”(Archer’s tomb, vii century bc, a square room
with a dromos oriented to the west; the tomb is open to visitors
every day), discovered near Montefiridolfi, a village in San Cascia-
no’s neighborhoods. During Roman times San Casciano was a post
house placed on an important crossroad on the top of the road go-
ing downhill to Florence, in correspondence with the miliarium
decimum (the tenth milestone on an important roman road prob-
ably connecting Florentia and Sena Iulia). That’s why its original
name was San Casciano a Decimo; over the time the suffix “Dec-
imo” was lost and replaced with Val di Pesa, referring to the val-
ley and the river Pesa. Thereabouts was built the parish Church of
Santa Cecilia a Decimo, that still preserves the ancient toponym.
A considerable population density in late Antiquity and early Mid-
dle Ages is indicated by the large number of almost coeval parish
churches in the area (Santo Stefano a Campoli, San Pancrazio and
San Giovanni in Sugana). During the Middle Ages San Casciano
suffered for a large number of lootings and devastations; the first
assault was led in 1312 by Henry vii, the Holy Roman Emperor,
and this attack was followed by the occupation of the town: the
Emperor, having abandoned the siege of Florence, encamped on
the Poggio, and lately charged his brother, Baldwin of Luxembourg
Prince-Archbishop of Trier, to destroy all, laying waste, and burning
houses in the region, including the Pesa and Greve valleys castles
and fortresses. Shortly after Henry the vii’s departure, Castruccio
Castracani arrived in San Casciano and destroyed the entire village.
In response to these attacks, as a countermeasure, Florence, having
in the meantime realized the strategic relevance of the area, start-
ed the erection the “Cassero” fortified building; it was completed
in 1356. Furthermore, the Republic of Florence decided to fortify
the hamlet with walls. The fortified city walls, still well preserved,
enclosed all the knoll including the village, the church, the “Po-

38
 San Casciano today

destà” (Chief Magistrate) palace and the “Cassero”. Since then San
Casciano became an unassailable fortress, devastations came to an
end and a prolific development period began, attracting once again
famous Florentine and Sienese artists, indelibly engraving their ar-
tistic virtuosity in many monuments. Among them Taddeo Gaddi,
Giotto’s pupil, the sculptor Giovanni Balduccio, an apprentice of
Giovanni Pisano, and Simone Martini, who probably painted his
last work in 1330, the wooden Cross of the Church of the Miseri-
cordia, before his death in Avignon. These artists masterpieces can
be admired either in the Churches or in the San Casciano Museum
(of Sacred Art) located inside the Church and the Convent of San-
ta Maria del Gesù, next to the town walls. During the xv century
the wealthy Florentine families built their own palaces inside the
fortified walls. The great Convent of the Franciscan Monks was
built outside the walls by Girolamo Castrucci, a San Casciano na-
tive and citizen, in 1492, and then enlarged in 1494. In 1512 this ter-
ritory hosted in the hamlet of Sant’Andrea in Percussina Niccolò
Machiavelli, who spent there his exile from Florence at the famous
villa the “Albergaccio”: there he wrote one of his most renowned
works, “Il Principe” (The Prince). When the House of Medici con-
solidated his power over Tuscany in the early years of xvi century,
San Casciano ceased to be sentry of Florence: gates, towers and
bastions went slowly demolished, castles were transformed in lux-
urious villas and Della Robbia kilns were opened: the Della Rob-
bia left some of their artworks at San Giovanni in Sugana, and in
other Churches and villas in the surroundings. The last grievous
devastation dates to July, 26 1944, when the German mines and the
Anglo-American bombings razed the area to the ground.

San Casciano today

San Casciano in Val di Pesa is considered the doorway into Chian-
ti; 25 km (15.5 mi) far from Florence, about 50 km (31 mi) from Sie-
na, borders on the municipalities of: Greve in Chianti, Impruneta,
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Montespertoli. It has an estimated pop-

39
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

ulation of 13,000 residents and it’s easily reachable either catching

the Florence–Siena highway or, alternatively, the Via Cassia out of
Florence. 360 m (1181 ft) above sea level, tourist number in San Cas-
ciano grows each year: strolling along its streets, admiring the ele-
gant palaces once country villas of the wealthy Florentine families,
taking a break in Piazza Repubblica to taste an espresso or an ice
cream contemplating the picturesque surrounding landscape are,
we think, enough reasons to understand why visitors appreciate so
much this little town. San Casciano is surrounded by vineyards and
olive groves growing on gently sloping hills. Enclosed by its 14th
century walls stand palaces and simple, but exquisite, churches,
preserving masterworks by the greatest Tuscan Renaissance artists.
With the rapid growth of tourism, rapidly becoming an increasing
source of revenue for all the Chianti area, many accommodation,
leisure and restoration activities came up, like B&Bs, restaurants,
pizzerias, cafeterias, snack bars, ice-cream parlors and all sorts of
shops. These activities stand beside a still flourishing agriculture
whose core products are, as we said, olive oil and wine.

Useful addresses and contacts

 PHARMACIES
• Farmacia Parrini  Via Machiavelli 29, tel. 055 820209.
• Farmacia Calamandrei  Via dei Fossi 1, tel. 055 820025.
 MISERICORDIA Piazzetta Simone Martini, tel. 055 828637. Its
ambulance service transports medical patients to treatment to
the closest hospitals and has qualified physicians on board. Local
health clinic, tel. 055 828168.
 ASL  Local public district for healthcare and social services, Via
del Cassero 19, tel. 055 822911.
 BANKS
• Chianti Banca  Piazza Arti e Mestieri 1, tel. 055 82551.
• Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze  Piazza delle Erbe 1, tel. 055 8228611.

40
 Festivals and events

• Banca Unicredit  Viale Corsini 18, tel. 055 7730711.

TRAFFIC POLICE PRECINCT  Via Cassia per Siena 3, tel. 055 820325.
 CARABINIERI STATION  Piazza Cavour 3, tel. 055 820031.
 POST OFFICE Via xxvii Luglio 23c, tel. 055 820533. 8.15 am to 7
pm. Monday to Friday, Saturday 8.15 am to 1 pm.
 TOURIST OFFICE  Via Machiavelli 8, tel. 055 828324, closed from
November to March; in April, May, October and December on Fri-
day and Saturday: 10 am-1 pm and 4-7 pm. From June to September,
Tuesday and Wednesday: 10 am-1 pm and Monday, Thursday, Satur-
day and Sunday: 10 am-1 pm and 4-7 pm. During closing season you
can ask for information at the town Public Relations Office (urp),
located on the same street.

Festivals and events

4 END OF MARCH  Medieval Carnival. All the participants, garbed
in the typical boroughs (“contrade”) costumes give life to a parade
in the old town center, and in a suggestive medieval atmosphere are
engaged in ancient games and struggles (the main event is the Joust
of the five Boroughs); an evocative Middle Ages encampment is
also built up.
4 SECOND SUNDAY OF APRIL  Spring Fair. It takes place in the Arts
and Crafts Centre Bardella, just outside San Casciano. You will
find wine and oil, open air markets, nurserymen, food stalls and
vintage cars displays.
4 THIRD SUNDAY FROM APRIL TO OCTOBER  Eccole di nuovo. Vintage
cars and motorbikes exhibition held in Piazza Repubblica.
4 END OF APRIL/BEGINNING OF MAY SUNDAY  Festa del riuso e svuota la
soffitta (Reuse market and clear out the attic Fair). It’s a reuse mar-
ket for the exchange and sell of used objects; also workshops and
shows along the streets of town center.

41
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

4 MAY  Chianti paese delle meraviglie (Chianti in Wonderland).

Event involving the culinary delights of Chianti, where visitors can
taste the best local deli food and renowned wine in San Casciano
historical center.
4 END OF MAY  Pittori e fiori (Scents and flavors of Chianti). The
town is filled with roses and aromatic plants thanks to the support
of the local nurseries: you can admire this magnificent flower ar-
rangements and, furthermore, works from local artists. In the eve-
ning, it will be possible to taste grilled specialties from local butch-
ers in Piazza Repubblica (the “Piazzone”).
4 FIRST DAYS OF JUNE  Artigiani in Villa. Cigliano in fiore (Craftsmen
in Villa. Blooming Cigliano). This event takes place in the inner halls
and gardens of the Villa del Cigliano, focused on the promotional
selling of a selection of the best arts and crafts specialists works, but
also enriched by vintage cars exhibition, food stalls for local delica-
cies tasting and selling, concerts and so on. You can get there from
Via di Cigliano, in Arts and Crafts Centre Bardella area.
4 FROM JUNE TO THE END OF AUGUST  Sports Festival. San Casciano
athletic field, all Saturdays and Sundays, musical evenings, outdoor
restaurant and pizzeria.
4 MID-JUNE, ON SATURDAY  La Notte Bianca (White Night). San
Casciano, public gardens in Piazza Repubblica.
4 FIRST HALF OF JUNE  Street Food. Celebration dedicated to enjoy
super tasty street food held in San Casciano, Piazza Repubblica.
4 FIRST TWO WEEKS OF JUNE  Sagra del Pinolo (Pine nut festival).
Chiesanuova, at Arci Association center, food stands with all sorts
of pine nut cakes, pastries, treats and cookies, music performanc-
es and cabaret exhibitions. The last night there will be a firework
show to celebrate the end of the event.
4 FIRST TWO WEEKS OF JUNE  Chiesanuova Sotto le Stelle (Chiesanu-
ova under the Stars). At Chiesanuova Arci Association social club
music performances, food stalls and ballroom dancing.

42
 Gourmet food and…

4 BEGINNING OF JULY  Sagra della brioche con gelato. Due Paesi in

festa (Ice cream with brioche fair. Two villages celebrating). This festi-
val brings together the villages of San Pancrazio and Lucignano. At
San Pancrazio, in the area next to the Pieve, food stands, pizza, live
music shows and, of course, the typical brioche filled with home-
made ice cream.
4 AUGUST 13TH  Festa di San Cassiano (St. Cassiano feast). It’s the
big feast day of the Patron Saint of San Casciano, cherished by the
local community; with a great fair and traditional fireworks at the
end of the feast.
4 FIRST TEN DAYS OF SEPTEMBER  (time span: 9/10 days) Festa del
Volontariato (Volunteers party). It takes place in Poggione Park in
San Casciano: the laic and catholic volunteer associations from
the territory of San Casciano join together to organize and cele-
brate this unique event involving all the municipality community.
During the evening live shows, concerts, theatre performances and
food stands with all sorts of delicacies. The event is basically a non-
profit fund rising to allocate donations to projects anywhere in the
third world.

Gourmet food and…

There are lots of stores where you can buy excellent products: gro-
ceries, butcheries, delis, bakeries. These shops are open all weekdays
including Saturdays and closed on Sundays. The only supermarket
open on Sundays and holidays is coop mall in Viale Europa: week-
days 9 am to 9 pm, Sundays and holidays 8 am to 1 pm.
TYPICAL BUTCHERIES AND DELIS
• Macelleria Secci Dario  Via iv Novembre, tel. 055 820479. Ex-
cellent meaty treats and peculiar beef and pork cuts (tenderloin,
sirloin, spare ribs, T-bone steaks, brisket and so on) to tease tour
palate and tickle your appetite; great hand craft cold cuts.

43
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

• Macelleria Frittelli  along Via Empolese, locality Bardella, tel.

055 820976. Just outside San Casciano, towards Cerbaia, this
butchery is renowned for its first-class cured meats since 1850.
You can find also delicious meat cuts.
CHEESE: TWO STANDOUT PLACES FOR SAMPLING TREATS
AND SHOPPING
• Corzano e Paterno Via San Vito di Sopra 9, tel. 055
8248179/055 8249066, shop: from Monday to Saturday 9 am-
1.30 pm, only during summer season open all day 9 am-6 pm.
Unlike Giovannino Nieddu, whose cheese making is in line with
tradition, here innovation rules. In the 70’s Wendelin Gelpke,
an architect, and other guys from Switzerland, bought a seven-
ty hectares property fronting onto Pesa valley: there they built
a farmhouse and a dairy. With the help of local skilled dairy-
men, they began their experience in cheese making, searching
for new tastes and flavors. Years of trials and experiments in the
creation of the various cheeses led to amazing results: in a few
years’ time the cheese made on the farm can be found in some of
the most prestigious delicatessen and restaurants in and around
the Florence area, and amongst them the worldwide famous 3
Michelin star Florentine restaurant Enoteca Pinchiorri. This
lovely property includes also an “agriturismo”, comprised of
four country large houses for holiday rental, and a shop where
you can taste and buy all their products (wine, cheese and ol-
ive oil, but also cured meats, jams, biscuits etc.). There are also
tastings held on the courtyard in front of the shop: it’s possible
to reserve the “tours & tastings” experience (tel. 3470602066
or [email protected]); the wine and cheese tasting in-
cludes different options: the Wine and Cheese Tasting offering
four wines, four cheeses, extra virgin olive oil, bread and “mo-
starda” of Cremona (chutney), price 10€ per person, the Wine
and Cheese Tasting with Tour, during which you will savor the
above mentioned products but also enjoy a vineyard walk, cel-
lar and dairy tour with a description of the production process,

44
 Gourmet food and…

price 18€ per person, and outdoor Brunch and Light Lunch
including three wines, cheese tasting, schiacciata bread, tuscan
white bread, cured meats and typical desserts like cantuccini and
ricotta cheese with honey, price 30€ per person (Brunch and
Light Lunch offer also a tour of vineyard, cellars and dairy). To
get there, see itinerary B [Itinerary B Cerbaia Val di Pesa → San Quir-
ico in Collina → San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle Val di Pesa → Barberino Val
D’Elsa duraion 1-2 days, p. 73]: pass San Pancrazio village and move
along towards Tavarnelle. Follow this road past the small village
of Santa Cristina in Salivolpe, and after Santa Cristina take a left
down Via San Vito, a little dirt road letting you admire amazing
landscapes: after a little while you will arrive at Corzano, where
the wine cellar, dairy, office and shop are situated.
• Caseificio Nieddu  Via Malafrasca 234, tel. 055 8248127. On
the road heading to Tavarnelle, see itinerary B [Itinerary B Cer-
baia Val di Pesa → San Quirico in Collina → San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa → Barberino Val D’Elsa duration 1-2 days, p. 73], just beyond
Corzano and Paterno Dairy. This characteristic dairy, owned by
Giovannino Nieddu, a native Sardinian shepherd who moved
to Tuscany many years ago, produces its excellent cheese with
traditional methods using exclusively the milk from the 220
Sardinian sheep grazing in the fields surrounding the stables of
the dairy farm. In addition to a world-class pecorino, many are
the sorts of cheese you can savor at Nieddu dairy: upon reserva-
tion, cheese and local cured meat tastings are held accompanied
with wines from the farm vineyards, all in a relaxing and scenic
atmosphere. It’s a must-try.
WHERE TO PARK THE CAR

Parking the Chisci at the entrance of the village, coming from Cer-
baia, adjacent to the Piazza Repubblica that is easily reachable on
foot in a few minutes. Stormed the monday day of the weekly mar-
ket and the 13 August on the occasion of San Cassiano feast of the
Patron Saint of the village.

45
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

Not to be missed
 CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL GESÙ, OR “DEL SUFFRAGIO” OR SA-
CRED ART GIULIANO GHELLI MUSEUM  Via Roma 33, Tuesday 3 pm to
7 pm; Wednesday 9 am to 1 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 10 am to 1
pm and 4 pm to 7 pm. Timetable is provisional and not definitive,
so if you find the museum closed during the above hours please can
ask for information at the town Public Relations Office (urp), lo-
cated in Via Machiavelli after Piazza delle Erbe, or go to the close
Tourist&Information Office, a short distance away on the same
street (opening times are variable, if in doubt, please check always
the currently valid opening times). Built in 1628 with the patronage
of the Lucardesi family, since 1989 hosts the Sacred Art Museum;
This Museum shows very interesting collections. The archaeolog-
ical section displays roman artefacts like daily use tools; the most
significative monument is represented by the majestic Etruscan stele
known as the “dell’Arciere”, found in the “Tomba dell’arciere” (Ar-
cher’s tomb, vii century bc) discovered near Montefiridolfi, a village
in San Casciano’s neighborhoods.
 CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL PRATO OR “DELLA MISERICORDIA” Via
Morrocchesi 72, open every day (Saturdays and Sundays included)
9-12.30 am., 3-7 pm. Entrance to the Church and museum is free,
but donations are welcome. If you wish to visit the museum, please
ring the Misericordia attendant at the neighboring Misericordia
Building close to the ancient “Porta al Prato”, one of the surviv-
ing gateways in the town walls. This 1304; after a restoration, from
1631 it hosted the headquarters of the “Arciconfraternita della Mi-
sericordia”. It contains a fine collection of art works gathered over
the course of time by the Confraternity of Misericordia, and mag-
nificent masterworks by noteworthy Sienese and Florentine art-
ists: the14th century panels depicting the Madonna and Child by
Ugolino da Siena, Duccio da Boninsegna’s pupil and the Crucifix
depicted by Simone Martini (currently being restored at the “Opi-
ficio delle pietre dure” in Florence). During the Holy Week the
Church gets adorned inside with a profusion of splendid flowers.

46
 Not to be missed

 CHURCH OF SAN FRANCESCO  Via San Francesco d’Assisi, along-

side Piazza Repubblica. Beautiful late 15th century Church built
thanks to the patronage of Castruccio Castracani, a merchant cit-
izen of San Casciano; it hosted until 1810 the Franciscan Monks
and in 1978 it was converted into a monastery of the Clarisse nuns.
The Convent is distinguished by a 1749 portico with a row of seven
columns. It contains a painting from the second half of the 15th
century representing a Madonna with Holy Child, Magdalene and
Saint Francis, a work by Biagio di Antonio, a painter from Faenza
who worked in Florence.
 CLOCK TOWER AND PIAZZA PIEROZZI The clocktower is located in-
to the heart of the old town, Piazza Pierozzi. It rises above an arch
crossed by a narrow alley giving access to the most ancient area of the
city, now Piazza Cavour, where you will see standing the Collegiata
(The Collegiate Church), the “Cassero” (Castle) fortified building at
the top of the walls (nowadays a private abode) and Cinema Teatro
Everest (whose complex includes also a café and a restaurant). Piazza
Pierozzi, situated nearby the foundations of the clock tower, is today
a meeting place for San Casciano citizens. It stands as an intersection
of all-out glamour and fashion retailers streets, Via Roma, Via Ma-
chiavelli and Via Morrocchesi [Figure 10 Via Machiavelli, p. 305]. Half-
way along Via Morrocchesi lies an elegant Medici Palace whose coat
of arms is partially covered by fig branches. Moving on, a few meters
away you will find the splendid Church of Santa Maria del Prato.
 CHIANTI TOWER  Formerly Water Tower, and later named Chian-
ti Tower, stands in the center of San Casciano close to St. Francis
Church. It was destroyed during the Second World War bombings
and then reconstructed; once restored, it kept its previous function
as a surge tank tower, but has become above all a touristic attrac-
tion. 37 mt high (121.4 ft), the top is reachable by an outdoor el-
evator: from its panoramic terrace it is possible to enjoy a 360°
breathtaking landscape view, ranging from the Apennines peaks
and the Florentine hills to the Chianti hamlets. Admission € 2;

47
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

from April 1st to October 15th, Mondays 10 am-1 pm and from

Fridays to Sundays 10 am-1 pm and 4-7 pm; from October 16th to
March 31st, Mondays 10 am-1 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 10 am-1
pm and 3-6 pm. Info, tickets and bookings: on Mondays and Fri-
days at Niccolini Theatre, Piazza Repubblica 12, tel. 055 8256388,
on Saturdays and Sundays at Sacred Art Giuliano Ghelli Museum,
Via Roma 33, tel.055 8256388.
 PIEVE DI SANTA CECILIA A DECIMO Just outside San Casciano,
down the road bearing the same name, on a tree-lined secondary
road leading to the sgc fi-si and Greve in Chianti, it goes back to
very ancient times. According to traditions it was built in 774, but
the first certain evidences (say, the first written documents) date
back to 1043. Around this Church evolved the first housing unit of
the village, and it acquired the name “parish”. It means fundamen-
tally the church of the people, that has its own parish priest who
has responsibility and canonical authority over the parish. Typical
basilical church in Romanesque architecture with three naves, the
building underwent massive baroque style restorations. Only the
bell tower and the oratory have maintained the original integrity
of their aspect. Outside the Church you can enjoy an amazing view
of San Casciano and its landscape.
 VILLA LE CORTI [Figure 11 Villa Le Corti, p. 306]  Via San Piero di Sot-
to 1. To get to Villa le Corti, take Via Grevigiana towards Mercatale
Val di Pesa, then, passed the Chianti Swimming Pool Aquatica,
halfway the hill makes a soft right turn on a narrow country road:
after 150 mt (492ft) you will reach your destination. The estate
consists of a rectangular base white villa with two twin towers at
its main façade. This majestic historical villa, nowadays nation-
al monument, is owned by Corsini family, one of the oldest and
most prestigious Italian aristocratic families. The villa dates from
the beginning of the xvii century and was designed by Santi di
Tito, the late Renaissance architect. It is surrounded by a vast park
with centuries-old cypress trees. It is possible to reserve and orga-
nize guided visits of the park and the historic wine cellars, orga-

48
 Restaurants and eateries

nized on three underground levels, calling the following numbers:

tel. 055 829301/055 8293026. For further information consult the
website www.principecorsini.com or e-mail info@principecorsi-
ni.com. During August month the Villa is closed to public [Figure
12 Vinsanteria Villa Le Corti, p. 306].

Restaurants and eateries

OSTERIA TAVERNA IL 5 DI VINO [€€€]  Via San Francesco d’Assisi 32,
tel. 055 8228116, open from Tuesdays to Sundays for dinner, 7.30
to 10 pm; from Wednesdays to Sundays open also at lunchtime,
12.30 am to 2 pm. This tavern/restaurant stands on one side of Piaz-
za Repubblica, close to Chianti Tower. The name “Il 5 di vino” de-
rives from the characteristic jug used in ancient times to serve cask
wine. This peculiar bottle came into existence to counter frauds
committed by innkeepers who would serve wine in bottles that al-
though appearing the correct size would contain a lesser quantity
of wine. This practice was widely used, and to fix it in 14th century
was introduced this characteristic bottle. Checked and stamped by
the municipal magistrates, the exact volume of a bottle was guaran-
teed by the presence of two stamps, one made of glass and the other
of lead, sealed on the bottle neck. There has been a massive use of
this kind of bottle, especially in the inns selling unbottled wine, un-
til the first half of the 20th century. This typical tavern, not very
broad, but cozy, offers traditional Tuscany cuisine dishes, masterly
cooked: original and rustic, but with an eye on refined variations,
and the aim to maintain the excellent natural flavors of the natural
local ingredients. Being crowded during weekends, we suggest book-
ing in advance. The owners are friendly and welcoming. Out-stand-
ing first courses: pappardelle (very wide egg noodles) with wild boar
sauce, duck sauce, sauce of rabbit, venison sauce or boar gravy, and
mushroom or onion soups. Between the main courses: the typical
Fiorentina steak, the excellent “tagliata” (sliced steak) and the redone
boiled beef, also called “Francesina”. Delicious house dessert. During
summertime it’s possible to eat outdoors.

49
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

OSTERIA CAFFÈ DEL POPOLANO [€€] Via Machiavelli 34, tel.

055 8228405. Open from Mondays to Sundays for dinner, 7
to 11.30 pm; open for lunch only on Saturdays, 12 am to 3 pm.
Closed on Sundays. This small restaurant/wine house, located in
the classiest street of San Casciano, offers typical Tuscan cuisine
dishes; we suggest: the pici (similar to spaghetti, although the pici
are stretched by hand and thicker, made from flour and water on-
ly, originating from Siena province) with Chianti and crispy bacon
sauce, paccheri with tripe ragout, the excellent T-bone Fiorentina
steaks, the tagliata (sliced steak) and the renowned peposo from Im-
pruneta. Exquisite house desserts. During summertime it’s possible
to eat outdoors, a few tables are set out on the sidewalk.
PIZZERIA SOTTO CASA [€€]  Via Morrocchesi 4, tel. 055  8294641,
open for dinner throughout the week except on Tuesdays. Open
for lunch on Saturdays and Sundays, 12 am to 3 pm. Located in
the town center, this refined pizzeria bakes first-class pizzas, also
made with whole wheat dough; it offers also delicious first cours-
es and tasty desserts. The location is classy and welcoming: we
suggest booking in advance because this pizzeria is very popular.
PIZZERIA LA CARBONAIA [€] Via iv Novembre 124, tel.
055 828344, open for lunch and dinner throughout the week,
closed on Mondays. It’s the oldest pizzeria in San Casciano;
to reach La Carbonaia take Via Machiavelli and, past Piazza
Pierozzi, go straight on for about 400 mt (0.25 mi). The location
is comfortable, excellent pizzas and first courses, tasty desserts.
The two following restaurants are located downtown, run by vol-
untary associations. They apply very affordable prices; most of
times can be crowded because they are quite popular between the
local residents.
PIZZERIA EVEREST  Piazza Cavour, tel. 055 8228384. It is an acli
club (acli is a Catholic social promotion association, a widespread
and organized system on the territory composed of economic activ-
ities and volunteer activities). Open for dinner all through the week,

50
 Restaurants and eateries

the location has an ample hall located under the main floor (where
you can find a bar/ cafeteria), bakes delicious pizzas, offers nice start-
ers and first courses at discount prices. This club is one of San Cas-
ciano two main meeting points, and hosts in a contiguous premise a
movie theater serving also as an acting theater where during winter
season weekends shows are performed (either films or stage plays).
In summertime, shows are performed in the summer arena inside the
walls. This pizzeria is very popular, so we suggest booking in advance,
especially on Saturdays and Sundays.
CIRCOLO ARCI  Via dei Fossi 63, tel. 055 820779, open for din-
ner on Saturdays and Sundays. Passed by Niccolini Theater, move
straight on: the club stands about 100 mt (328 ft) from the inter-
section. Here too a vast hall hosts the costumers: tasty starters,
first courses and pizzas. This pizzeria is also very popular, so we
suggest booking in advance.
PIZZERIA STADIO Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 30, tel. 055 820509.
Summer-only pizzeria, in July open from Thursdays to Sundays, in
August all through the week, except Mondays. It’s located down the
road where on Mondays the local open-air market is held inside the
athletic field. This restaurant is run by volunteers, and all the funds
raised go to the local soccer team to support its activities. Obviously,
it’s an outdoor pizzeria; the location is quiet except on Saturdays and
Sundays: you can taste savory pizzas, seafood first courses and wild
game recipes. Affordable prices.
PARCO ATTREZZATO DEL POGGIONE. SAN CASCIANO During the
first ten days of September all the laic and catholic volunteer as-
sociations get together in this Park, organizing live shows, con-
certs and theatre performances: during the event you can find a
pizzeria and a restaurant running with quality food and afford-
able prices. The event is basically a nonprofit fund rising to allo-
cate donations to projects anywhere in the third world. If you are
in the neighborhoods, make a pit stop here: you will please your
palates and do a good deed.

51
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

CIRCOLO ARCI CHIESANUOVA  Via Brunelleschi 29, tel. 055 8242480.

Open for dinner on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; on Fridays it works
only as pizzeria. Affordable, offers tasty starters, first courses, pizzas and
desserts. In summertime its vast balcony offers fresh air and a stunning
landscape view while you enjoy your meal. During the first two weeks
of June in the Arci Association Center rooms takes place the “Pine nut
festival”: you will enjoy music performances, cabaret exhibitions and
local delicacies at the restaurant. You can reach the location both from
San Casciano and Cerbaia. From San Casciano: about 6 km (3.7 mi),
take Via Scopeti, then, past Spedaletto hamlet, make a left turn to-
wards Chiesanuova at Sant’Andrea in Percussina crossroads: once
arrived in Chiesanuova, follow the street signs direction La Romo-
la, and turn left: the club is 500 mt (0.3 mi) away. From Cerbaia,
take Via Volterrana towards Chiesanuova-Firenze and go forward
for about 6 km (3.7 mi).
CAFÉS AND ICE CREAM PARLORS
• Gelateria I pini  Via Machiavelli 49, tel. 334 2267397. Right in
front of the City Hall in old town central Via Machiavelli, pro-
duces one of the top San Casciano ice creams. Alongside the
wide selection of fruit flavors, we recommend also the delicious
flavors pistachio, yogurt and milk cream. During summertime
it’s possible to savor this famed ice cream sitting outside at a few
tables set out on the sidewalk, giving your summer a fresh and
delicious twist.
• Bar Turismo  Piazza Repubblica 3. Residents customary hang-
out, it offers a rich variety of cocktails; furthermore you can
taste a typical Italian “apericena”, an aperitif dinner (with a se-
lection of hot and cold snacks included in the price) served on a
scenic balcony. Ice cream also is worth a try.
TYPICAL GROCERY STORES
• La bottega di Spedaletto  Via Scopeti 103, tel. 334 1880014,
from 8 am to 1 pm and from 4 to 8 pm; open on Sundays.
Closing day: Monday. Typical Tuscan small shop, it offers a va-

52
 Restaurants and eateries

riety of yummy “schiacciate”, the typical Tuscan kind of focaccia,

filled with delicious local sliced cold cuts. You can reach it from
San Casciano entering the rotary out of the city (characterized
by an iron monument) and taking Via degli Scopeti, a nice pan-
oramic road that in a few minutes will get you to Spedaletto
residential area.
• Bakery Giotto Chiesanuova Via Volterrana 275, tel. 055
8242220, 8 am-1 pm, 4-8 pm, closed on Tuesdays. This
bakery is located in the main street that crosses the village, in
appearance, is a normal bottega, but serves probably the best
“schiacciata” (white flatbread pizza) of the zone, if not of entire
Chianti, produced directly and fresh from the oven in a contin-
uous cycle. We recommend the filling with the mortadella or
soprassata cold cuts, but you will be spoilt of choice. Very pop-
ular spot, you may find long queues especially on Saturday and
Sunday, but it’s worth the wait. In front of the bakery there is a
space to sit and a parking. At the time of going to print, we have
heard rumours of a likely change of management of the bakery,
and the owner didn’t deny the fact, stating it might be futuris-
tic. I hope as a customer that any change of ownership does not
alter the quality of the products.
• Bakery Graziella Chiesanuova, Via Volterrana 132, tel. 055
8242354, 8 am-1 pm, 4-8 pm, closed on Wednesday. Is located on
the opposite side of Giotto, a few meters away, and bakes excellent
desserts and good filled schiacciata. Higher prices than the other
bakery, however it’s worth a visit.

53
 Near San Casciano

Mercatale Val di Pesa

This pleasant village at 6 km from San Casciano owes its name to
the fact that in ancient times it was an important trade point in
the area. It dates back to 1300 and stands near the castle of Mon-
tecampolese, already cited as faithful to the Ghibelline faction and
the Empire in 1387. Currently it is a quiet village with a beautiful
square where it is pleasant to stop and enjoy an ice cream or a good
coffee. Nearby are the Parish Church of Santo Stefano a Campoli
and the Castle of the Palagio with its beautiful cellars.
 USEFUL ADDRESSES AND CONTACTS
• Farmacia Buoni  Piazza del Popolo, tel. 055 821037.
• Misericordia  Piazza Vittorio Veneto, tel. 055 821048.
• Banca del Chianti  Via Enrico De Nicola 1, tel. 055 8218023.
• Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze  Via Mattoncetti 16, tel. 055
821031.
• Post office  Via Mattoncetti 6, tel. 055 8218128.
4 FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
• Sunday after Easter. Festa dei confetti (Sugared almonds Feast),
Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
• Mid June. Steak Feast, Piazza Vittorio Veneto.
• 25 July. Mercatale Fair of July. The Monday following this event,
is celebrated the feast of Santa Gennara patroness of Mercatale.
Small market with the final fireworks.
• The second half of September. The Feast of grape harvest. Pa-
rade and evocation of ancient crafts.
• October. Feast of “Bruciate” (roast chestnuts) and New Wine
(wine still in fermentation). It takes place at the local Circolo

54
 Mercatale Val di Pesa

Arci. Lunch with the typical chianti dishes, “Bruciate”, typical

cakes and other specialities.
• November. Feast of the fettunta and new oil. It is usually held at
Circolo Arci.
WHERE TO EAT IN MERCATALE
• Circolo Arci  Via Sidney Sonnino 64, tel. 055 821422, open
only on Saturdays and Sundays for dinner. Good first courses,
pizzas and cakes, cheap prices.
• Macelleria Tozzetti  Piazza Vittorio Veneto 43, tel. 055 821071.
Another ancient and charming shop located in the heart of
Mercatale, following ancient traditions. In 1936 the founder of
the family, Alfredo, began his activity as a mediator of livestock,
activity then much in vogue in the municipal district of San
Casciano. It is perhaps to follow his father’s footsteps that his
son Carlo inaugurated in 1960 a butcher shop in the center of
the town. Surely he made the most of his father’s expertise in
livestock breeding, and he gave origin to a path of quality that
arrives intact to our days. In fact the butchery produces savoury
meat cuts, fantastic steaks, and exquisite cold cuts with pdo.
Don’t miss to taste the sbriciolona, salami and prosciutto of cin-
ta senese. The bottega has become for its excellence the official
supplier of numerous restaurants and hotels. All meat processed
within the bottega come from a nearby breeding controlled di-
rectly by the family Tozzetti. The butcher shop also serves as
point of sale of ancient flavors. Inside you can buy tasty cheeses,
fine wines, lard and quality local products. It deserves at least a
visit.
• Alimentari Il panaio  Via Antonio Gramsci 12, tel. 055 8218309.
In the center of the village, immediately after the square, this
food shop produces excellent bread and savoury schiacciate
filled by delicious cold meats.
WHAT TO SEE IN MERCATALE AND SURROUNDINGS
[Figure 13 Castello di Gabbiano, p. 307]

55
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

• Pieve di Santo Stefano in Campoli  Located in open country-

side, past the village of Mercatale and the castle of the Palagio.
It has always had a great historical importance. This is demon-
strated by the famous personages named “pievani”, and among
them Giovanni di Lorenzo de’ Medici, future Pope Leone x
(1513-1521). The first informations about this parish church date
back to 903 when it was under the authority of the florentine
bishops. The original building had the appearance of a three
naves basilica covered by a roof. Inside the church, three naves
separated by arches resting on pillars; the plastered walls of stuc-
co decorations originate in the Baroque period. Over the two
side altars you can admire: on one side a painting depicting the
martyrdom of Santo Stefano (late xv early xvi century) and
on the other a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saints,
attributed to Giuliano Bugiardini or Franciabigio. On the right
side fifth pillar you will find a fifteenth century table depicting
the Madonna with Child and San Giovannino attributed to
Apollonio di Giovanni. In the sacristy is preserved an ebony and
silver reliquary endowed by the Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo
of Tuscany in 1630. Outside, the campanile preserves its original
appearance but the crowning of merlons is the result of a 19th
century restoration. Even the addition of the portico covering
part of the original façade dates back to this period. To visit this
beautiful church please contact the tourist information office of
San Casciano (see useful addresses in San Casciano).
• Castello Il Palagio  This castle thanks to its mighty walls and
the value of its defenders this important stronghold has with-
stood several major attacks during the centuries, always getting
through unharmed. It is mentioned for the first time in 1252,
but it is supposed to be much more ancient. Located on the for-
tified line that from San Casciano included Mercatale, Fabbrica
and San Andrea, played a fundamental role in the defense of
the territory. In 1260, the Ghibellines plundered the area and
destroyed the nearby Church of Campoli, but Il Palagio was un-

56
 Montefiridolfi

conquered and its thick and semibastioned walls unbreached;

it resisted also to Arrigo vii when with his troops devastated
San Casciano. The year 1320 was characterised by the raids and
destruction wrought by Castruccio Castracani. In 1320 the for-
tress was enlarged to almost double its starting size, and thanks
to its unscaleable curtain wall, became a bastion for defense
and a base for raids against the invaders of the surrounding
area. Here, in 1376 Giovanni Acuto’s army was stopped in the
neighborhood of Campoli by Buondelmonti’s troops coming
from The Palagio. At the end of the xvii century the castle was
bought by the Barons Miniati di Dino, ancient florentine fami-
ly who transformed it into a mansion and decorated it with the
finest art pieces; magnificent trees were placed around the walls
and the garden became bigger, until it reached its peak beauty
in the 17th and 18th centuries. The last restoration dates back
to the early years of the twentieth century. Il Palagio, while pre-
serving the remains of the ancient structure, shows today a very
different aspect, due to the restructuring of the estate, to the
construction of the adjacent farm comprising the mill and the
cellars, where still today wine is made with the traditional meth-
ods. Currently the castle added to the agricultural activities also
the touristic business of luxury resort, providing accommoda-
tions and holding private parties, weddings, conferences, pri-
vate events and more.

Montefiridolfi
Very close to San Casciano from which it is only 5 km away, you can
reach it travelling the panoramic Via Grevigiana: passed by the gas
station Eni, turn right, where there is a road sign, and you will arrive
after a few minutes to your destination. The history of Montefiridolfi
is deeply tied with that of its castle. The village derives its name from
Buondelmonti family ownership of the castle: they owned it until the
xvii century. Today it is an agricultural village in the Chiantigiana
countryside with little more than 300 inhabitants. Worthy of atten-

57
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

tion is the little square recently restored and paved in terracotta; on

it overlooks a beautiful tower house of the xiv century. In the hamlet
there are two grocery shops and two restaurants. Continuing your
trip, at short distance you will arrive at the castle of Fabbrica: here
on the ruins of an ancient castle was built a magnificent dwelling. A
little further on, we get to the Castello di Bibbione, transformed into
a welcoming resort for tourists and the Etruscan tomb “dell’Arciere”.
WHERE TO EAT IN MONTEFIRIDOLFI
• Ristorante Casa mia  Via Santa Maria a Macerata 4, tel. 055
8244392, opened from Wednesdays to Sundays for dinner on-
ly (on Sundays for lunch and dinner). It is located next to the
square of this small village. The restaurant is small, cozy and
rustic. The name gives you an idea of the hospitality reserved
to customers welcomed informally like members of the fami-
ly. Excellent cuisine, superb cold cuts and affordable prices. On
request, only for groups, also opened on Mondays or Tuesdays.
From December 8th to 23rd always open for lunch and dinner.

Bargino and surroundings

The greatest attraction of Bargino are the new cellars Antinori on
the Via Cassia per Siena. The inauguration of this extraordinary ar-
chitectural work, that has managed to combine past and future, oc-
curred on October 5th 2012. As promised during a general meeting
held at the community house, 400 inhabitants of Bargino were the
first to see the new work: it was built excavating a whole hillside,
then earthing up again and finally burying it for constantly main-
taining at 17°C the temperature of the structure. It has an area of
58,000 square meters and potentially can hold up to 2,500,000 bot-
tles. Its interior houses a museum that represents the history of wine:
you will learn the stories of the Antinori family joint to the Ricasoli
family, the latter already a big wine producer since 1200. There are
also rooms for wine tasting, oil jars, vinsanto barrels, an auditorium
with 250 seats, a shop and the offices of the Antinori group. Above

58
 Bargino and surroundings

the roof you will discover a vineyard with all the grape varieties of
Chianti, even the more ancient. This cellar, housing inside the very
best of oenological production, despite being a great work obvious-
ly has nothing to do with the ancient and typical Chianti wine cel-
lars. This, combined with an atmosphere in part anonymous, can be
a little disappointing; it’s however absolutely worth a visit. If you are
interested to visit the Antinori cellars call the number 055 2359700.
WHERE TO EAT IN BARGINO AND SURROUNDINGS
• Trattoria da Bule [€€]  Via Cassia to Siena 94, tel. 055 8249489,
closed on Sundays, Open for lunch and dinner all the rest of the
week 12.30 am-2.30 pm and 7.30-10 pm. In the middle of the
village behind the grocery store. Excellent home-style trattoria.
Among the first courses we recommend the macaroni with the
tripe sauce and the ribollita. Among the main dishes, mixed
grill, Florentine steak, stewed wild boar, livers and peposo im-
prunetino. Good also the desserts, special the cantucci of Prato
soaked in vinsanto.
• Trattoria del Ponte Rotto [€€]  Via Certaldese 6, tel. 055 828090,
always open for lunch and only Saturdays for lunch and dinner.
Near the bridge on the Pesa river on the road that leads to San
Pancrazio and Certaldo. Typical Tuscan country trattoria serving
tasty food. Ribollita, Lombard soup, a plate of toasted bread with
boiled beans and plenty of Tuscan oil. Steaks and grills are among
its most popular courses. Excellent cantucci of Prato and cold cuts
produced in the area.
• Pizzeria La botte  Via Borromeo 154, tel. 055 8249029, closed
on Tuesdays and Saturdays for lunch, open for lunch and din-
ner all the other days. Its located between the Bargino and the
Broken Bridge. Pleasant pizzeria inserted in a sports area and
playground, on the bank of the river Pesa (you can get there by
following the path of the Pesa) this place makes excellent pizzas,
seafood first courses, but also “penne strascicate”(penne sauteed
in sauce) or dressed with porcini mushrooms. In summer it is
very pleasant to eat, especially at dinnertime, outdoors.

59
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

• Parco della Botte  This area is surrounded by greenery, and it’s

a pleasant and relaxing place with games and adventure trails for
children; in addition to the pizzeria there is a picnic area with
barbecue where in the summer the locals meet to grill meat. Ob-
viously if one wants to organize this kind of barbecue picnic must
be aware that the days of Saturday and Sunday are very crowded
and it’s better to get there very early to secure a place near a grill.
FOOD AND...
• Alimentari Cassia  Via Cassia per Siena 94, tel. 055 8249019,
closed on Sundays. Next to the Trattoria Bule, ideal for snacks
or quick lunches, fantastic local cold cuts and self produced
cakes. The place it deserves a stop, very popular between the in-
habitants of the village.
• Alimentari Ponte Rotto  Via Certaldese 8, tel. 055 828073,
closed on Wednesdays. Next to the restaurant. Great place for
white flatbread pizza (schiacciata) and sandwiches filled with
self produced cold cuts snacks at value for money prices. In
summertime you can enjoy these delights, sitting under a pergo-
la in front of a good glass of wine. The shop is located next along
the river Pesa; descending toward the right you get to Cerbaia
and rising up from the opposite side, turning to the first street
to the right, you reach Bargino and Sambuca Val di Pesa.

Cerbaia
This district of 2000 inhabitants is approximately the second most
populous village of the municipal territory. Its history is tied to the
bridge that the Signoria of Florence built in 1295 on the Pesa stream,
probably to favor trade as it was at the intersection of the roads com-
ing from Florence and Volterra. But there are also those who argue
that the construction of the first nucleus was due to the fact that the
area was a rich hunting reserve of the noble Florentine families, being
populated by many deer, from which perhaps descends its first name
Cervaia that then became Cerbaia. The village has no tourist attrac-
tions, but it is full of life that happens largely in its square, Piazza del

60
 Cerbaia

Monumento, surrounded by shops of all kinds, and where the inhab-

itants meet to have a few words with each other after their shopping
expedition. In addition to two banks, it houses three grocery stores,
a kiosk, two ice-cream parlors, two greengrocers, various restaurants,
including a famous and obviously expensive Michelin star restau-
rant. It can be a good starting point for a walk on the path of the Pesa
[Figure 14 Surroundings of Cerbaia, p. 307] or to take an excursion on the
opposite side of the river towards the municipality of Montespertoli.
 USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Picca  Piazza del Monumento 6, tel. 055 826035.
• Banca del Chianti  Via Empolese 225, tel. 055 8259496.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena  Via Volterrana 53, tel. 055 826015.
• Post Office  Via Empolese 182, tel. 055 825218.
4 FESTIVALS AND EVENTS
• First decade of June until the end of the month. Art and Sports
Festival in Cerbaia. Sports and musical events, food and wine
stands in the area of the sports field; the event is closed by the
“Palio dei ciuchi” (Palio of donkeys) and fireworks.
WHERE TO EAT IN CERBAIA
• La Tenda Rossa [€€€] Piazza del Monumento 9, tel. 055
826132, closed on Sundays and Mondays for lunch, open all the
other days for lunch and dinner. This structure is to be inserted
in luxurious haute cuisine dining places, located on the outside
of Piazza del Monumento. Elegant starred restaurant already
mentioned in the Michelin guides, probably the best, certainly
one of the most expensive in Chianti. On the other hand, it of-
fers a sumptuous cuisine with refined food and a vast selection
of precious and expensive labels, a triumph of flavors. Not for
every budget but to try absolutely having the chance to do it.
• Ristorante pizzeria Ribalta [€€]  Via Pian di Pesa 2, tel. 0571
620500/331 8177404, open only for dinner, 7-12 pm, closed on
Mondays. This excellent and welcoming restaurant is actually

61
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

located in the municipality of Montespertoli, on the other bank

of the Pesa river inside the stables. Excellent first courses and
fish dishes, very good pizzas. In summer you can eat outdoors,
enjoying the fresh breeze brought by the nearby Pesa, in a pleas-
ant and relaxing environment. To get there, from Cerbaia pro-
ceed towards Montespertoli crossing the bridge over the Pesa,
turn left at the first road, Via Ripa, proceed for a little less than 2
km, turn at the second road on the left, take the small downhill
road and you will arrive in less than two minutes.
• Ristorante Casa di Caccia [€] Via di Marciola 7, tel. 055
769022/339 5455290, open on Thursdays for dinner and on Fri-
days Saturdays and Sundays for lunch and dinner. Nice place,
cared for but at the same time spartan, is located in a charming
place in the countryside. It is managed, but not only, by hunters,
and, of course, offers courses of game and other Tuscan special-
ties. Notable the wild boar cold cut and the first made with wild
boar sauce. To get there, go beyond Cerbaia and take Via Em-
polese towards Montelupo and Empoli. When you arrive at the
village of San Vincenzo a Torri, take Via di Marciola, after the
traffic light you will arrive in less than 5 minutes.
• Circolo Arci Babilonia  Via Bini Smaghi 26, tel. 055 8259821,
open for dinner from Thursday to Sunday. Club run by volun-
teers open from Monday to Friday for lunch, meeting point
where the workers in the area met at lunch time, cost of a good
meal about 10/12 euros. You can taste first courses, starters, piz-
zas. On Thursday proposes, in addition to the usual menu, game
dishes. On Fridays large fried fish dinner. In summertime you
can have dinner in a cool internal garden.
• Circolo parrocchiale Santa Caterina Via Empolese 296, tel.
338 8569771, open on Saturdays and Sundays for dinner, 7.30-
10 pm. Next to the church. First courses pizzas and desserts at
affordable prices.
• Apericena al Lago delle Certane  Via Canto alle Gracchie, tel.
338 6390706/338 9323259, open for dinner in summer and in

62
 Cerbaia

winter; in summertime you can have dinner outdoors enjoying

a beautiful view and tasting the various themed dinners, mixed
grills, Argentine barbeques etc. On Sundays, still in summer-
time, aperitif and appetizers with a view. Some argentine boys
have turned this artificial lake near Cerbaia (sport fishing is
practiced here), in a welcoming place. They have built a wooden
cabin and created a space for sunbathing. The food is savory,
but considering the beauty and the pleasantness of the location
it is always worth stopping to sip the Sunday aperitif or to enjoy
a nice cool drink while admiring the lake and the surrounding
countryside. To get there, go past Cerbaia and take Via Em-
polese towards Montelupo and Empoli, then turn right at the
crossroads which shows the indications for Scandicci and Flor-
ence, you will arrive in less than a minute
BARS AND ICE CREAM PARLORS
Two good bars to stop for breakfast, are also two excellent artisan
ice cream parlors; both bars are very popular, they are the usual
meeting place of Cerbaia population.
• Bar Pimpina  Via Volterrana 41, tel. 055 826010, in front of
Piazza del Monumento. Pleasant place, good pastries and ice
cream.
• Bar il Moro Via Empolese 228, tel. 055 826003, closed on
Mondays. Immediately after the square along the road which
leads to Empoli and Montelupo Fiorentino. Managed by two
nice sisters, Laura and Susanna. Excellent ice cream, certainly
one of the best in the area.
• Forno pasticceria Rigacci  Via Volterrana 71, tel. 055 826028,
open all days including Sundays, on Wednesdays closed all day
during summertime and open only in the afternoon during win-
tertime. It is sited at the exit of the village towards Chiesanuova
and produces excellent confectionery. At Christmas and Easter
it produces the cakes characteristic of these two festivities (pa-
nettone and colombe).

63
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

• Pasticceria Le Torri  Le Torri At the gas station erg, Via Em-

polese, pass by Cerbaia and head towards Montelupo, San Vin-
cenzo a Torri. Yes, you got it right, this is what happens, one of
the best bakeries in the area is housed in a gas station, where
there is a well-equipped laboratory that produces excellent pas-
tries and delicious fancies and cookies. Very busy especially in
the morning and on Sundays, usual destination for breakfast.
An ideal place for a stopover.
WHAT TO SEE IN CERBAIA
• The Mulinaccio of San Vincenzo a Torri  It is one of the many
hidden and ignored suggestive places. Its building dates back to
the half of 600. Now it is surrounded by nature that has grad-
ually regained its space giving the place a special charm. Here
between 1653 and 1774, the farmers were grinding the wheat,
the mill was owned by the Galli family, who already in 1634 had
built a dam on the Masseto torrent creating a lake for fish breed-
ing. Then, with abandonment, nature wedged itself among the
ruins, creating surprising shapes and colors. The place can be
reached from San Vincenzo a Torri, you should take the small
road to the right after the gas station, after about 1 km on the left
side of the road there is a small clearing, leave your car and take
the dirt track on the left; after 300 meters you will arrive at the
mill. Preferably do not visit the place in the dry season, because
the greatest attraction is represented by the water, also avoid pe-
riods of prolonged rain, the dirt track could be filled with mud
[Figure 15 Mulinaccio San Vincenzo a Torri, p. 308].

Sant’Andrea in Percussina
Small ancient village near San Casciano. Surrounded by vineyards
from which beautiful mansions rise, it is located on a ridge from
which it is possible to glimpse the cathedral of Florence, the hills
of Fiesole, the mountains of Pratomagno and the valley of the river
Greve. Here was exiled by the Medici, because he was suspected of

64
 Sant’Andrea in Percussina

having plotted against the Signoria in 1512, Niccolò Machiavelli,

who during the day at Albergaccio idled away and drank, dedicat-
ing his nights to writing. Here he wrote one of his masterpieces,
The Prince. Today the village hosts, just under the Albergaccio, the
beautiful and ancient cellars dating back to Machiavelli’s era where
it is possible to take guided tours and make wine tastings in a tru-
ly old-fashioned place. For information, contact the Albergaccio
restaurant.
WHERE TO EAT IN SANT’ANDREA IN PERCUSSINA
• Ristorante Albergaccio [€€] Via degli Scopeti 64, tel. 055
828471/335 134478, closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, 12.30
am-2 pm and 7-10 pm. This ancient restaurant was already open
in 1450, and here Niccolò Machiavelli spent his long days as an
exiled having conversations and drinking with the landlords and
the lumberjacks. Sublime place inserted in a perfect setting, excel-
lent cuisine, very friendly staff. Specialties: ribollita, pici all’agli-
one and crusty bread crumbs, crepes au gratin stuffed with porcini
mushrooms. In the main courses, in addition to the inevitable
Florentine steak, excellent also the cinta senese tagliata with bal-
samic vinegar and chicken grilled under a brick. You can call the
restaurant to book a guided tour of the beautiful and ancient cel-
lars located underneath, it lasts about an hour and costs 10 euros.
You can book wine tastings and degustations of cheese and cold
cuts. The price varies depending on the wines chosen and on the
number of wines that you decide to taste.
• Trattoria La Baracchina  Via degli Scopeti 199, tel. 055 8229600,
closed on Mondays, open for lunch and dinner all the other days,
12.30 am-2.30 pm and 7.30-9.30 pm. Just beyond the Alber-
gaccio, excellent trattoria at affordable prices. Here also you can
admire stunning landscapes. Very nice place, in wintertime you
will be welcomed in a beautiful and cozy room in the warmth of
a nice fireplace. In summertime you can eat outside, enjoying the
fresh air of the place and admiring its magnificence. Reserve the

65
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

tables on the wooden veranda in advance because they are the

best. Among the first courses stand out the “penne strascicate”,
pasta with sautéed ragout with the addition of abundant cheese,
the pappardelle with wild boar sauce, the mushroom soup.
Among the main courses we recommend the steak and the ta-
gliata, sublime, and, for the admirers of this dish, the tripe;tasty
also the boiled meat. Excellent homemade desserts.
THE PATHS OF THE PESA
If you are looking for a quiet, relaxing place to wander far from
everything, this is the right spot for you. This is a organized route,
well maintained and mostly plain [Figure 16 Panoramic view of Val di
Pesa, p. 308]. In the projects of the municipalities concerned the
path should have started from the Mill of San Cassiano at the
sources of river Pesa around Radda in Chianti and end up at Mon-
telupo Fiorentino, where the river pours into the Arno, overall a
56 kilometers track. So far are open the ways from the Ginestra
Fiorentina to Montelupo, some short ways from Ginetra to Cer-
baia and uninterrupted one from Cerbaia to Ponte di Rignana for
a length of about 25 km. This path that runs parallel to the river for
a large part of its itinerary is of rare beauty. In an absolute silence
(except the short segments where it lines the superstrada Firenze
and Siena). You will flank vineyards, hills dotted with houses and
farms. In this path you can meet people who’s walking or going jog-
ging, people riding, cyclists, and some rare car of the few residents,
but, if you are lucky, you can see even fallow deers, foxes, roe deers,
hares and pheasants (the area is a hunting reserve from Cerbaia to
Ponte Rotto). The best moments of walking along these paths are
the late spring when nature is lush and the river has a good flow
rate of water, or in autumn, when it is possible to admire the typical
colors of this season. Along the track there are here and there rest
stands with rudimentary seats built with large stones. During the
summer months, even if in the path it is never too hot thanks to the
air flowing coming from the river, it is advisable to have with you a
bottle of water or a canteen.

66
 Sant’Andrea in Percussina

• Way from Cerbaia to Bargino (about 15 km)  This route has

three entrances, from Cerbaia, from the Ponte Rotto under San
Casciano and from Bargino [Figure 17 Pesa River, p. 309].
• Access from Cerbaia  you pass the bridge over the river Suga-
na, on the Via Empolese near to the first houses of the village,
then, crossed the bridge go right and take the small road that
passes through the houses, take it and after 300 meters you will
on the path, turn left towards Ponte Rotto, which is reachable
in just over an hour on foot. The route runs parallel to the Pesa,
in this part the trail goes through a hunting reserve where you
can meet fallow deers, roe deers, foxes, hares, pheasants and wild
boars. If you want there are some detours, the first is near the
first iron bar, the second, for those coming from the opposite
direction, leads you to turn left and go straight. The road climbs
and after half an hour of challenging journey you will arrive at
the Montepaldi farm, an ancient villa, now seat of the Univer-
sity of Florence, where is produced a good Chianti Classico
that you can buy directly. From the square in front of the villa
you can enjoy a magnificent view, one of the most beautiful on
the Pesa and its valley [Figure 18 Farmhouse to Montepaldi, p. 309],
[Figure 19 Sunset on Montepaldi, p. 310]. If you go on, after about
1 km there is a second detour, it also has an iron bar, necessary
to prevent access to not authorized vehicles. Turning left and
then left again in 40 minutes you reach Montepaldi, here the
road is less intensive than the previous one; if you head instead
straight to Mucciana, a small restored hamlet, carrying on you
arrive at Poggiale, a charming residence. After a few meters you
get to the Via Empolese: if you go left and take the first road,
always staying on the left side, after about 800 meters you ar-
rive to the Montepaldi farm. Continuing we return to the river
completing a nice ride, perhaps a bit tiring, but very nice. Ignor-
ing the detours you get to Ponte Rotto on the Via Certaldese:
here there are two good reasons for a stopover, the Ponte Rotto
grocery, great for a sandwich or a schiacciata stuffed with spe-

67
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

cial cold cuts produced directly by the owner and enjoy a good
glass of wine, and the typical trattoria of the Ponte Rotto, a cozy
place that serves the typical Tuscan cuisine dishes. To continue
towards the Bargino you have to cross the village in the direc-
tion of San Casciano; after passing the car park turn right and
you will reach the river in a few minutes. A short distance away
is the sports park of Botte, delicious, fresh and relaxing, located
on the river bank, where you can stop for a coffee, an ice cream
or to have dinner in the park restaurant. In the park there are a
playground for children, 2 tennis courts, a baseball field and a
picnic area equipped with barbecue and seating tables [Figure 20
Pesa alla Botte, p. 310]. Obviously in summertime and especially
on weekends this place is overcrowded, and it is difficult to find
a place to eat outside if you do not arrive early. Going forward
you get to a bridge: you are at Calzaiolo, and if you cross the
bridge and turn left you can continue to the Bargino, Sambuca
and Ponte di Rignana.
• Way from Bargino to Ponte di Rignana  At the Bargino bridge
head towards Sambuca Val di Pesa, pass under the bridge of the
Florence-Siena highway that you will flank for a short distance;
reached the following bridge, at the top of a short climb you
continue straight: here the landscape is more rugged, but equally
amazing. It is possible that the path skimmed by the river could
be damaged in some parts by the floods of the Pesa; the last
stretch of the path has almost completely lacking shade: here you
pass close to the ruins of a beautiful farmhouse. On the opposite
side of the river there are the Chianti hills with woods, vineyards
and the inevitable typical Tuscan farmhouses; behind them the
beautiful Vallombrosian abbey of Badia a Passignano. The path
ends on a paved road: going to the right you can quickly reach
the village of Sambuca, where there is the magnificent Roman
bridge and a place not to be missed, the Francini butchery sell-
ing excellent meats and cold cuts. Close to the butchery there
is a rustic restaurant that offers almost exclusively meat, steaks,

68
 Sant’Andrea in Percussina

barbecue, tartare and cold cuts. All at affordable prices. After the
Sambuca Bridge, the road is wonderful but has some difficult
stretches: in 5 km you will arrive at the bridge of Rignana. Once
here you have the opportunity to continue to Greve in Chianti
or Badia a Passignano but are all very challenging routes and you
have to be well trained.
• Pieve di San Pancrazio  Placed on the hill that divides the Val di
Pesa from the Val Virginio, it dates back to the 10th century, as tes-
tified by a document found at Badia di Passignano. The building,
of evident Roman origins, has undergone heavy alterations in the
xv century when the Company of the Annunciation was found-
ed. Later, the Chapel of San Giovanni, the Canonica and the Por-
tal of the main façade were added to the original building. The
Church, which owes much to Pievano Niccolò Cavalcanti, who
lived there and dedicated all his possessions to its expansion and
embellishment, brought there Santi di Tito when he was involved
in the construction of Villa le Corti: he left a beautiful painting
depicting the Crucifixion of Christ. It has a plan with three naves
that ends with likewise circular apses. Of the original Romanesque
structure remains the bell tower, the tribune with the three apses
(only the central one is intact). Inside the Pieve there are works
of considerable interest, a xvi century painting of the Madonna
between San Sebastiano and San Rocco and a panel of Cenni di
Francesco, important painter and miniaturist of the 1400s, and on
the right aisle a fresco of an unknown Tuscan painter, 1300-1400,
which depicts the Madonna with child among the Saints [Figure 21
Fresco of Tuscan unknown, p. 311]. Near the main altar there is a beau-
tiful wooden Crucifix. Not to be missed, next to the church, is the
beautiful studio of Niccolò, a room with walls entirely frescoed
with stunning paintings. These represent all the arts, the Gram-
mar with the wand skywards indicating God who illuminates
the wisdom of men. There are depicted Dante, Boccaccio, Guido
Cavalcanti, ancestor of Niccolò. Alongside the scholars of the past
Thales, Sophocles, Socrates, Strabo and Empedocles.

69
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Near San Casciano

Other things to do

HOT-AIR BALOON TOURS. GO WHERE THE WIND YOU BRING!  www.

tuscanyballooning.com, tel. 055 8249120/335 6454036. You can
make magnificent, fantastic balloon tours if the weather condi-
tions allow you to do so. Taking off from the Calzaiuolo near San
Casciano, the flight starts early in the morning and takes about an
hour. In this lapse of time you go where the wind brings the bal-
loon because has not rudder. It is possible to fly towards Tavarnelle,
Certaldo, Castelfiorentino, Poggibonsi. The excursion, although
beautiful, is not for every budget, it costs € 250 and in addition
to the flight the price includes breakfast with local products and
prosecco.
BICYCLE TOURS. On the Strada in Chianti  Via Borgo Sarchiani
26, San Casciano, tel. 055 820242/339 1313510. If you want to ex-
plore unusual routes, this is for you. Here you can rent various sorts
of world-class bikes, at a price of € 20 a day for hybrid bikes, nor-
mal bikes with luggage carriers and gearboxes, € 45 for carbon road
bikes, of course prices are lowered for a multiple day rental. Alessio,
the owner, as well as being a valid biker is a deep connoisseur of the
paths of Chianti and can suggest you the various paths to follow or
even accompany you himself. Often these excursions end in typical
restaurants attended by the local population.
HORSEBACK EXCURSIONS. TUSCANY HORSE RIDING Organizes
horseback excursions along the river Pesa and the surrounding hills
for groups of three people, maximum, if inexperienced, more nu-
merous if riders are skilled. The stables are on the other bank of
the Pesa in the municipality of Montespertoli. To reach it go to
Cerbaia and follow the signs to Montespertoli and Volterra, turn
left into Via Ripa, climb up for about 1500 meters and take the
second road on the left: at the end of the hill you will find the sta-
bles. The stables also host the delightful restaurant RIBALTA [€€], tel.
0571 620500/331 8177404, very popular in loco. It serves excellent

70
 Other things to do

pizzas, but not during lunch opening hours, good first courses and
excellent steaks and tagliate. In summer it is lovely to eat outside.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays, open all the other days for
dinner, on Saturdays and Sundays also for lunch.
EXCURSIONS IN QUAD Via di Vittorio 23, San Casciano, tel.
055 8290148/334 2805217, Luca will answer to your call. Entry also
from the adjacent car park “dei Chisci”. Ideal for sportsmen who do
not want to get too much tired. The tours of the Chianti tracks are
really beautiful, they usually last half a day and end in one of the typical
groceries, eating a sandwich or a schiacciata with local cold meats in
front of a good glass of wine. Prices currently not available.
EXCURSIONS IN BUGGY “COCCHIERI DI’ CHIANTI”  tel. 335 8242228. An
original way to spend some good times admiring the landscape is on
board of a buggy. The tour starts from San Quirico in Collina, a village
that dominates the river Pesa from the municipality of Montespertoli
side. Great part of excursions take place in the wonderful Via di Casti-
glioni, a dirt road that starts from the village of Montagnana and runs
along a ridge overlooking the Pesa on one side and the Virginio torrent
on the other, proceeds in the direction of the Anselmo crossing vine-
yards and offering marvelous views of the two valleys from which beau-
tiful farmhouses and ancient dwellings with beautiful cellars emerge.
The tour also includes a visit to the cellars of Villa Frescobaldi where
you can taste wines and cheese with cold cut platters, but if you desire
so, the trip can end with a lunch or dinner in a typical place. You can
also visit the village of Poppiano dominated by the Guicciardini castle,
tasting and buying wines, or take the road that leads to San Pancrazio
towards Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Luke the coachman is a profound ex-
pert of the place and is a real mine of information.

71
 Itineraries from San Casciano

Itinerary A
Montefiridolfi → Bargino → Badia a Passignano
DURATION 1 DAY
Short and beautiful itinerary of a few kilometers a day. Go along Via
Grevigiana, on this road there are the cellars of Villa Le Corti and the
cellars of the Terre di Perseto (farm where it is possible to taste and
buy wines at reasonable prices). Continuing you reach the junction
near the village of Mercatale Val di Pesa, from where you turn right
towards Montefiridolfi, which deserves a short stop; here taking Via di
Collina, we arrive at the small village that bears the same name. Near-
by, well pointed out as historical monument, is the Etruscan tomb of
the Archer. Going further you get to the castle of Bibione, an ancient
mansion turned into a beautiful resort. After about two kilometers
you will find the village of Bargino with the new Antinori cellars. Along
the Via Cassia in the direction of Sambuca Val di Pesa we find, be-
fore arriving at the village, a sign indicating the road to the beauti-
ful Vallombrosan Abbey of Badia a Passignano. After the visit of the
Abbey, continue crossing the state road, turn left towards Mercatale
Val di Pesa, and after about 3 km there is a crossroads: turning right
a small road leads to the Castle of Palagio with its beautiful cellars,
going on after a few meters you will find the Pieve di Santo Stefano
in Campoli. If instead at the intersection you turn left, after about two
kilometers you will find the castle of Gabbiano. Whichever road you
might choose, however, you will have to go back to the intersection
if you wish to continue towards Mercatale and San Casciano. You can
also make a variation to the itinerary, very fasciating: arrived in Mon-
tefiridolfi cross the village and go in the direction of the Antinori del
Tignanello cellars (not open to visitors); continuing along the beauti-
ful paved road, you will be arrived at destination, admiring the superb
landscapes at the Fonte dei Medici resort. After the resort, the road
becomes a dirt road; turning right at the crossroads, you will arrive at
Badia a Passignano having the chance to admire it from above. After
the visit continue, crossing the Cassia, go first left towards Sambuca,
ancient Roman bridge on the Pesa, then turn back towards the new

72
 Itinerary B

Antinori cellars. Continuing you will be back to San Casciano in a few

minutes.

Itinerary B
Cerbaia Val di Pesa → San Quirico in Collina
→ San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
→ Barberino Val D’Elsa
DURATION 1-2 DAYS

This tour will allow you to discover the other side of the river Pesa
through the territory of the municipality of Montespertoli and then en-
ter the Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Barberino Val d’Elsa ones. Starting
from San Casciano, take Via Empolese towards Cerbaia, past the villa
of Poggiale stop near the Montepaldi junction to admire the gorgeous
views of the Val di Pesa, even if the best panorama is the one you can
admire from Montepaldi’s farm (in the open space in front of the villa
bordered by chains and small barrels, but accessible on foot). Once
in Cerbaia continue towards Montespertoli, cross the Pesa, and after
about 300 meters turn left into Via Ripa, a scenic road on the other side
of the river that will lead you, after having passed through the village of
Ripa, to San Quirico in Collina. If you please you can make two interest-
ing stops: the first at the workshop of the Dini brothers who produce
excellent cured meats and hams (you can buy the products in the lab-
oratory where you are literally overwhelmed by the smells released by
hanging cold cuts): the laboratory is sited below the bar-grocery in the
center of the town. After 100 meters on the same side is the butchery
Ciappi: they sell top-quality meat cuts, (often they slaughter livestock
directly) and produces also excellent cold cuts. At the end of the village
a detour, indicated by signs, leads in less than a kilometer to the Castle
of Poppiano, [Figure 22 Detail of the Castello di Poppiano, p. 311], [Figure
23 Castello di Poppiano, p. 312] historic mansion erected at the end of
the first millennium as the external defense of Florence and owned
by Francesco Guicciadini, still belonging to the same family today. It
produces excellent olive oil and superb wines (Chianti Colli Fiorentini,
we are outside the Black Rooster area). Guided tours to the castle and
cellars are possible with a reservation required two business days in

73
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Itineraries from San Casciano

advance. For information, contact Mrs Janine Huwiler tel. 055 82 315
or 331 3314129, [email protected]. It is possible of course to
buy wine and oil produced in the castle. Going back to San Pancrazio,
where you can visit the ancient Parish Church (see opening hours at
APT San Casciano) the road is splendid and its ridge divides the Pe-
sa and Virginio valleys. Visited the church you can choose what to do,
if you turn right you head to Montespertoli and Certaldo, turning left
you return towards San Casciano, the distance is about 6 kilometers.
You might stop at the Ponte Rotto for a snack or dinner if the Osteria is
open, or dine at the nearby pizzeria La Botte on the Pesa banks, thus
dividing your itinerary in two days. If instead you continue straight, you
head towards Tavarnelle, continuing to admire the splendid views. Be-
yond the village of Santa Cristina in Salivolpe, turning right into Via di
San Vito you will find the Corzano e Paterno dairy. Going straight, after
the junction for the village of Pergolato, on the right we find Giovanni-
no Nieuddu. Proceeding we arrive at the hamlet of Romita and shortly
after you will find the junction that leads to Tavarnelle and Barberino
Val d’Elsa, reachable in a few minutes.

What to see arrived at Tavarnelle

The Parish Church of San Pietro in Bossolo, with paintings by Jacopo

Meliore and Neri di Bicci, and adjacent to the Museum of Sacred Art.
Outside the village taking Via Sticciano you can make an interesting
tour that, crossing one of the most beautiful stretches of Chianti, will
lead you to the village of Tignano with the homonymous castle. Pass-
ing the castle the small road often changes name but is always the
same (first Strada della Valle, then Strada della Chiara and eventually
strada delle Cortine), past le Cortine, at the crossroads with Via Pi-
etracupa, turning left you reach San Donato in Poggio [Figure 44 Porta
Fiorentina, p. 323], [Figure 46 Porta Senese, p. 324], a tiny hamlet with the
beautiful church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, if you want you can make
a stop at a typical tavern of Pietracupa. Taking the provincial road 101
you get to Morrocco with the wonderful Church of Santa Maria del
Carmine in Morrocco; going on you return to Tavarnelle and after four
kilometers you will find the beautiful village of Barberino Val d’Elsa.
An alternative for going into the territory of Barberino is to turn left
in direction Castellina in Chianti, pass the observatory of Chianti and

74
 Itinerary C

shortly afterwards turn left for the small and panoramic Via Panaretta
that will lead you to the castles of Panaretta and Monsanto. However
whichever route you choose to take, Barberino and its surroundings
are well worth a visit.

What to see in Barberino

The historic center with its walls and its ancient gates, Porta Senese
and Porta Fiorentina, the Palazzo del Cardinale with the emblem of
the Barberini family that gave birth to Pope Urbano VIII, the Ospedale
dei Pellegrini, the church and its parvis where it is possible to admire
a magnificent panorama, perhaps sitting at the table of the adjacent
restaurant or pizzeria (Ristorante Archibugio and Osteria Campanel-
lino). Outside the village, well indicated, you can visit the nearby town
of Petrognano, the Pieve di San Appiano, and the Castles of Panaret-
ta and Monsanto. In Petrognano there is a magnificent restaurant (Il
Paese dei Campanelli); past Petrognano, after 1-2 kilometers, you ar-
rive at the chapel of San Michele Arcangelo in Semifonte, the chapel
is almost always closed but it is sited in a pleasant place. From there
a small road takes you to Certaldo in double-quick time. The territo-
ry of Barberino Val d’Elsa is very close to San Gimignano and Siena,
easily reachable street the Florence-Siena in about half an hour. As
mentioned, this itinerary can last two days, the distances between
the various places are minimal and can be divided into two parts
without changing hotels or holiday farm. If you however are staying in
San Casciano, you do not need to follow the road to Cerbaia and move
from San Quirico in Collina. There are three options available: the first,
go to Tavarnelle along the Via Cassia, the second take the Via Certal-
dese, and once arrived in the village of San Pancrazio turn left at the
intersection next to the Parish Church. The third, and the fastest, take
the Firenze-Siena freeway and exit at Tavarnelle.

Itinerary C
San Casciano → Mercatale Val di Pesa → Panzano in
Chianti → Greve in Chianti → Montefioralle
DURATION 1 DAY

75
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA  Itineraries from San Casciano

[Figure 24 Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale, p. 312]

[Figure 25 Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale, p. 313]

Starting from San Casciano take Via Grevigiana, go past the village of
Mercatale Val di Pesa and follow the route towards Greve-Panzano:
arrived at the crossroads of the four roads go straight on following
the indication Panzano; you will take a long route, 11 kilometers, but
the road is ravishing. Once you get to the ancient village of Panzano
you can visit the church of Santa Maria dell’Assunta, enshrining inside
a painting of the Annunciation by Michele di Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio.
Within walking distance from the village there are, close to one an-
other, the Pieve di San Leolino with two tabernacles by Giovanni della
Robbia (to make a visit to ring the bell) and the oratory of San Eufrosi-
no, open only in the occasion of exhibitions or concerts but placed in
an extraordinary location named “La Conca d’Oro di Panzano”. In the
village every Sunday morning there is a lively market and there are al-
so three excellent restaurants: La Cantinetta Sassolini, Oltre il Giardi-
no and Solo Ciccia, the last one managed by the famous butcher Dario
Cecchini, surely the most known personality of Panzano: in addition
to managing the restaurant which serves first-class meat courses,
also runs the old adjacent butchery where you can buy great meat
and excellent homemade cold cuts. Taking the road towards Florence,
after a few kilometers it will lead us to Greve in Chianti, relaxed and
charming hamlet marked by the typical and characteristic triangular
shape square with its arcades and the shops framing the square itself.
Here take place the most important social events, from the feast of
wine at the weekly market on Saturdays, to antiques market etc. (see
all events in the space provided by the municipality of Greve). In the
middle of the square there is a statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano, and
at its end there is the beautiful Church of Santa Croce that right inside
contains a beautiful triptych of the xiv century, a Madonna with Child
by Neri di Bicci, a fourteenth century Annunciation and a wooden
Crucifix of 1500. In front of the Giovanni da Verrazzano statue stands
the Antica Macelleria Falorni, unmissable place that sells meat cuts
of Chianina breed and Cinta Senese breed and delicious homemade
cured meats and sausages. In a few minutes you will find the cellars
of Greve, an insight into the world of the Black Rooster where you can
make wine tastings by the “Wine Card”. Exiting from Greve by taking

76
 Itinerary C

the small street of Zano you get to the splendid and ancient Pieve di
San Cresci that houses a painting of the Virgin of the Rosary, work
of 1650 by Francesco Boldrini. Once past by the Pieve, following the
signs you can arrive at Montefioralle: this ancient fortified village is
probably one of the most ancient in Chianti and is still today enclosed
within its original walls: the oldest testimony of Montefioralle dates
back to 1085. It was classified one of the most beautiful hamlets in
Italy. Formerly under his wing grew and developed the town of Greve.
The town developed around the highest part that corresponds to the
ancient feudal settlement. Developing around the ancient castle the
village took a plant of elliptical shape composed of a radial road from
which unfold of alleys all leading to the feudal formwork. The walls
were octagonal in outline, with four gates, modifications of which still
exist. During the Middle Ages it was one of the greatest military and
administrative centres of the area. It belonged to the families Ricasoli,
Benci, Gherardini and Vespucci. In 1325 it was sacked by Castruccio
Castracani. Here was the birthplace of the last descendant of Amer-
igo Vespucci, who beared the same first name of his ancestor (see
description village of Montefioralle Greve in Chianti). The alleyways
paved irregularly and arranged radially, still today reveal the ancient
military attitude of the village. A must-see is the Church of Santo Ste-
fano that inside enshrines an impressive painting of the Madonna
with Child. Although this is an amazing work, experts have not been
able to credit the painting to a certain authorship. Two good places to
eat, La Taverna del Guerrino, very panoramic, and La Castellana. Going
past Montefioralle you can visit, if you have not already done it by tak-
ing the other road, the Pieve di San Cresci; then going back to the road
you’ve already travelled to go to Panzano, you should turn right to-
wards Mercatale and San Casciano, and after a few kilometers you will
find a crossroads: turn right towards Greve and after two kilometers
on the right, well signaled upward, appears the Castello di Gabbiano.
When you have finished your visit going back and turning right at the
previous intersection you get back to Mercatale and San Casciano.

77
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings

  VILLA IL POGGIALE [€€€] (Historic Residences and Relais)  Via

Empolese 69, tel. 055 828311. It can be reached from the highway
Firenze-Siena, exit San Casciano, past by the village towards Cer-
baia, after about 2 km. Or, travelling the highway (sgc) that goes
from Pisa or Livorno, exit Ginestra Fiorentina, continue towards
San Casciano, and past Cerbaia Cerbaia follow the signs to San
Casciano for about 3 km. Splendid dwelling of the xv century that
belonged to the Corsini princes, is sited at short distance from San
Casciano. It has 24 rooms, including 3 Junior suites and 2 suites,
carefully furnished, air-conditioned and equipped with every com-
fort, from safe, satellite tv to kettles for tea or coffee. From the
beautiful garden with swimming pool you can admire a magnifi-
cent panorama of the Pesa. Possibility of wellness treatments in the
dedicated center inside. The structure organizes, on request, vari-
ous excursions, you can have dinner in the restaurant of the villa for
€ 28, drinks not included. wi-fi free. Restaurants and shops in San
Casciano are just a 5-minute drive away.
  VILLA I BARRONCI  Via Sorripa 10, tel. 055 820598. Beautiful resi-
dence in tuscan style with a splendid panorama over the Chianti hills,
close to San Casciano. I Barronci have a park, a panoramic swimming
pool with breathtaking views of the Val di Pesa, single rooms, double,
triple quadruple rooms and suites, air-conditioned rooms with pri-
vate bathroom and satellite tv. Breakfast is buffet, based on excellent
homemade pastries, savories and can be consumed on the poolside.
On the beautiful terrace, also with breathtaking panorama, you can
eat your meals. On request, personalized treatments in the equipped
and comfortable wellness center; you can rent bicycles and even a
Ferrari. wi-fi free of charge. Very close to the shops and restaurants
of San Casciano.
  AGRITURISMO FONTE DEI MEDICI  Via di Santa Maria a Macerata
31, tel. 055 8244700. Lovely place in a beautiful fifteenth-century

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 Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings

village perfectly restored in the heart of Chianti. It offers a free well-

ness center, a beautiful swimming pool and a restaurant that offers its
guests the typical Tuscan cuisine dishes, on request also vegan and
gluten-free courses. The rooms are medieval-style houses, furnished
in perfect Tuscan style with exposed beams and terracotta floors.
During their stay, guests can use the sauna and Turkish bath in the
wellness center, train at the fitness center or ride bicycles to explore
the beautiful surrounding countryside, Badia a Passignano and the
panoramic for Montefiridolfi, the Tignanello cellars (not open to
visitors) are at a stone’s throw away. Continental breakfast, wi-fi
free, pets allowed.
  CASTELLO DI BIBBIONE  Via di Collina 66, tel. 055 8249231/335
8106514. The Castrum Bibionis dates back to 997. This historical
residence belonged to the Cadolingi of Montecasciali. Today the
Castle of Bibbione is a beautiful farmhouse in Chianti. It has beau-
tiful apartments of different sizes, all with fireplace and exposed
wooden beams, wi-fi, flat-screen satellite tv. The apartments of
the farmhouse can accommodate from two to six people. Apart-
ment guests have access to the shared pool open from May to Oc-
tober that overlooks the hilly landscape of the Chianti area. Guests
have also access to a Turkish bath, a well-equipped wellness center,
where Ayurvedic, toning, relaxing and shiatsu treatments are prac-
ticed. You can easily reach it by following the Firenze-Siena high-
way, exiting at Bargino, after the exit turn right towards Bargino
and then turn left following the indications to Montefiridolfi; after
about one kilometer you reach the destination. Nearby, the restau-
rants of Bargino, Montefiridolfi and Ponte Rotto and the Antinori
cellars.
  CASTELLO IL GABBIANO [€€]  Via Gabbiano 22, tel. 055 821053.
Past Mercatale Val di Pesa, on the road that leads to Greve in Chian-
ti. This historic residence belonged to the Bardi family until the xv
century, today it is a magnificent residence surrounded by vineyards
and olive groves with a good restaurant, the Cavaliere, also open to
outside guests, open for lunch and dinner (closed on Mondays and

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SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

Tuesdays at lunch). The castle offers the choice to stay both in the
11 rooms or in the cozy apartments in the farmhouses of the prop-
erty. We suggest you enjoying the beautiful swimming pool and the
vast garden where breakfast is served when the weather is good. On
request, you can visit the ancient cellars of the castle. To reach it:
highway Firenze-Siena exit San Casciano, go beyond the village and
follow the signs Mercatale Val di Pesa, Greve, passed by Mercatale
continue for 4 km towards Greve. As an alternative, at the Firenze
Impruneta exit take the highway to Siena, exit at the first exit, Im-
pruneta, continue straight towards Greve passing Falciani and Fer-
rone, after the latter near the Grevepesa Cellars turn right towards
Mercatale, arrival at destination after about 2 km. The property al-
so features classic double rooms and beautiful, perfectly equipped
apartments of various sizes. wi-fi free, pets allowed fee-paying.
  BED & BREAKFAST ART  Via della Volta 6, tel. 055 8290372. In the
heart of San Casciano, within the ancient walls, this B&B is locat-
ed in a perfectly restored former Benedictine convent. Impeccably
managed by Letizia and Raffaella, two nice girls, has double rooms,
also for single use, triple rooms and two apartments with kitchen-
ette. The air-conditioned rooms have satellite tv, private bathroom,
linen change is weekly, towels are changed every three days. To reach
it, take the Florence-Siena, exit at San Casciano: when you arrive in
the town, go around the walls taking the tree-lined avenue. Stop in
Piazza della Repubblica, on the right side next to the walls (attention
parking there is prohibited). Go past the gate, the B&B is on the oth-
er side of the street. wi-fi free, small pets allowed. The restaurants
and shops of the village are just a few minutes walk away.
  LE DIMORE DI MEZZA COSTA  Via Borromeo 67, tel. 055 828692.
Beautiful, elegant and cared for B&B flawlessly managed by Fabrizio
and Vincenzo, immersed in the countryside with beautiful views of
the hills of Chianti and Val di Pesa, just 2.5 km far from San Cas-
ciano. Beautiful and tidy rooms (if free ask for the blue room), all
equipped with mini bar and flat screen tv, excellent breakfast buffet
served, in summertime, on the beautiful panoramic terrace, where

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 Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings

sometimes you can enjoy delicious lunches and dinners (ask for in-
formations from the managers). The property offers: gym, fee-paying
spa, which must be booked, wi-fi free, pets allowed. The restaurants
of Bargino, Ponte Rotto and San Casciano are nearby. To reach it,
cross San Casciano taking the road to the Ponte Rotto, after about 2
km follow the sign Calzaiuolo, the B&B is on the corner. You are a
stone’s throw from San Casciano, Bargino and Ponte Rotto, and in
matter of restaurants you will be spoiled for choice.
  RELAIS POGGIO BORGONI  Via Cassia per Siena 35, tel. 055 8228119.
Beautiful structure set in an enchanting landscape, lies about 2 km
from San Casciano. The relais has a beautiful pool surrounded by
olive trees, a panoramic terrace, elegant rooms with air conditioning,
mini bar, private bathroom with complimentary toiletries. Breakfast
is à buffet with a selection of sweet and savory, fresh fruit. For meals
you can take advantage of the excellent hotel-restaurant “Osteria il
Poggio” where bread and pasta are homemade; you could also taste
a selection of wines of their own production. As an alternative, the
nearby restaurants of Ponte Rotto, Bargino or San Casciano. To get
there: exit at Firenze Impruneta, take the Firenze-Siena highway, exit
at San Casciano and continue towards the town, pass it following the
signs for Siena, and you will arrive after about 2 km. Excellent value
for money. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
  TENUTA DEL PALAGIO OR VILLA PIAN DEI NOCI  Via di Campoli 104,
tel. 055 821630. At a short distance from the castle of Palagio and the
Parish Church of Santo Stefano in Campoli, an elegant structure in
an enchanting scenery. It has elegant apartments with 2,4,6 beds and
a beautiful swimming pool. They organize tastings based on cheeses,
cured meats and wines, and sometimes they serve brunches. wi-fi free,
pets allowed.
  CASTELLO IL PALAGIO  Via di Campoli 124/126, tel. 340 8111121/
3362299889. Set on the beautiful hills between Mercatale and Mon-
tefiridolfi, this ancient castle, an impregnable pillar of the ancient
defensive belt of Florence, is today a successful farm offering tourists

81
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

beautiful apartments located in the beautiful surrounding countryside.

Inside it has cellars where you can make limitless tastings, and an an-
cient oil mill. Its apartments can accommodate two to eleven people.
To reach it, take the Firenze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano, fol-
low the signs to Greve in Chianti; past Mercatale, continue for about
2 km. Once you reach the town of Quattro Strade, turn right and you
will reach your destination in a couple of minutes. In the surround-
ings: Pieve di Santo Stefano in Campoli. Nearby restaurants: Monte-
firidolfi, Bargino, Castle and Ponte di Gabbiano on the road to Greve
in Chianti.
  AGRITURISMO SALVADONICA  Via Grevigiana 82, tel. 055 8218039.
Stupendous structure, but it is not the usual farmhouse inset in an
enchanting place. Here an ancient rural village has been carefully re-
stored and transformed into a beautiful mansion in the middle of the
typical Tuscan landscape with sloping hills, olive groves and surround-
ing vineyards, which alone would justify the stay. The farm has dou-
ble, triple rooms and two suites, all carefully renovated and equipped
with all comforts. There are also a tennis court, a swimming pool with
jacuzzi and an excellent restaurant, exclusive and open for customers
only. Definitely one of the best accommodations considering the level
of services offered, the location, and the value for money. To get there
take the highway to Siena and exit at San Casciano, go past the village,
continuing to follow the signs to Greve in Chianti; after about 5 km,
before the Eni petrol station, turn right, and you will arrive in a very
short time to the farm. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
  VILLA CARMIGNANI  Via Pisignano 131, tel. 055 828822/055 820700,
for direct bookings please contact Sabrina. This beautiful villa can ac-
commodate 10-12 people; it is ranked between the average prices ho-
tels, although maybe prices are a bit higher than the average, but you
have to consider some things: the entire property is for guests’ exclusive
use, the possibility to go in with the rest of the group, the absolutely
fantastic location: the house is surrounded on all sides by vineyards,
olive groves, and cypress trees, and offers the utmost peace and tran-
quility; moreover a beautiful swimming pool with spectacular views of

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 Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings

the surrounding hills. In addition, by contacting the structure directly

to the telephone numbers and to the e-mail address listed above, you
can also obtain more convenient prices.
  LA FONTE DEL MACHIAVELLI  Via degli Scopeti 54, tel. 055 8249598.
This ancient farmhouse once belonged to Niccolò Machiavelli, has
been carefully restored and inset in the typical Tuscan landscape in
the middle of vineyards, olive groves and sloping hills. Provides love-
ly well-furnished rooms, in Tuscan style, with ensuite bathrooms, air
conditioning and equipped with satellite tv, that overlook on the
beautiful sorrounding view. During summer you will have a good
start of the day with a rich breakfast on the panoramic terrace, and
an enchanting swimming pool with solarium swathed in greenery, a
really nice place. The family-run B&B’s owners are professional and
fond of, and they will receive you with warmth and helpfulness. To
get there take the Firenze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano, before
arriving in town turn at the roundabout, which has a metal sculpture
in the center, follow the signs to Chiesanuova, Spedaletto (attention
to the speed camera placed in the town center), passed the village
turn right at the first intersection in direction of Sant’Andrea in Per-
cussina; past the village you will arrive at the B&B. As an alternative,
leave the highway and take the Via Cassia towards Greve-Tavarnuz-
ze: arrived to Scopeti turn right, cross the bridge over the Greve,
climb for about 1.5 km and you have arrived. Good value for money,
wi-fi free, pets allowed. The restaurants of Sant’Andrea in Percussi-
na and San Casciano, 3 km away, await you.
  AGRITURISMO IL CORNO [€]  Via Malafrasca 64, tel. 055 824851.
Inset on the road that divides the valleys of the Pesa and Virginio,
about 5.5 km from the administrative center. Towards the end of the
1990s some of the main country houses of the estate were restored
and renovated and today they serve as accommodation for our
guests. There are rooms and apartments – partly made up of original
pieces – where tradition, elegance and simplicity create a real mag-
ic atmosphere, all placed in a panoramic position with spectacular
views over the two valleys. It produces high quality Tuscan wines,

83
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA 

such as the Colorino del Corno or the Malvasia di Santa Lucia and
an excellent and high-quality extra virgin olive oil. The inside Restau-
rant Corno DiVino prepares excellent old traditional and regional
dishes of the “poor” kitchen up to Renaissance cooking. Here you
will spend very relaxing holidays, sun baths or swimming in one of
the pools surrounded by a big park; beautiful the double and triple
rooms, and the perfectly equipped two and three-room apartments,
that have been restored taking great care to preserve their original
structure, materials and furniture, with wooden beams and terracot-
ta floors. Excellent breakfast served buffet style, that you can enjoy
while admiring a breathtaking landscape. To reach it, take the Firen-
ze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano and take the Via Certaldese.
When you arrive at the village of San Pancrazio, turn left towards
Tavarnelle, you will be at your destination in a few minutes. wi-fi
free. Pets Allowed. Nearby there are the restaurants of Ponte Rotto.
  B&B MACHIAVELLI Via Machiavelli 20. Splendid B&B in an
elegant building on the central Via Machiavelli in San Casciano.
Mrs. Giovanna beautifully manages this single apartment with a
loft room, cozy, charming, elegant, which can accommodate 2+2
people. Super value for money, wi-fi free. To reach it, take the Fi-
renze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano and reach the town: at
the traffic light after the Eni gas station turn right into the tree-
lined avenue and park. The B&B is in the right hand street at the
end of the avenue.
  AZIENDA AGRICOLA LA BRUSCOLA Via di Pisignano 16, tel.
055 828450 /338 2806735. Beautiful structure located on a road that
divides two valleys, very quiet, beautiful surrounding panoramas.
Very close to San Casciano. At disposal of the guests there are beau-
tiful rooms with use of kitchen. The Azienda Agricola produces ex-
cellent wines, not to be missed The Chianti Classico Stibbio Riserva,
the vinsanto still produced with handcrafting methods. The latter is
produced in limited quantities and may not be available. To get there,
take the Florence-Siena and exit at San Casciano, cross the village and
take the Via Empolese towards Cerbaia, turn right towards Pisigna-

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 Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings

no, the Azienda Agricola is a few hundred meters from the intersec-
tion. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
  B&B LA TANA DI FRAGOLO  Via di Pergolato 4/i, tel. 055 8249277.
Nice Bed & Breakfast on the hills above the village of Bargino, with
a beautiful panoramic view also on the new Antinori cellars. The
air-conditioned property has only one cozy double room, a cradle
can be added on request, the entrance is independent. Nice garden,
excellent breakfast. Good value for money. To reach it, take the Flor-
ence-Siena, exit at the Bargino, turn left and after the village turn
right into Via di Pergolato and you will reach the Bed & Breakfast
after 1.5 km. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
  HOTEL CALZAIOLO Via Cassia per Siena 32, tel. 055 8249009.
Placed at the center of beautiful hills, about 3 km far from the ad-
ministrative center, recently renovated, this hotel offers lovely and
comfortable air-conditioned rooms with private bathroom. It is sit-
ed near the Antinori cellars, Badia a Passignano, the restaurants of
Bargino, Ponte Rotto and San Casciano. Bus tickets to Florence and
other locations are available at the reception. To reach it by car, take
the Florence-Siena, exit at Bargino and turn left, the hotel is on the
road a few minutes away. Excellent value for money. wi-fi free.

85
 Excursions from San Casciano

To Florence.  To Florence two possibilities, buses and cars. The first

option is certainly the best, there are frequent rides in the morn-
ing and in the evening for the return, it is faster and cheaper than
the car. Inquire about timetables at the local tourist information
office or where you are staying or call the italian toll-free number
800373760, operating from 5.30 am to 8.30 pm or visit the website
www.acvbusacvbus.it. You will avoid parking problems and reach
the Piazza Stazione in the heart of Florence in about 30 minutes.
If you prefer the car instead, be aware that parking is difficult and
very expensive. The best thing to do is take the sgc at the end of
the junction , proceed in the direction of Firenze Scandicci, go into
Viale Nenni and park in the free parking lot near the stop of the
tramway Nenni Torregalli, if this is at capacity you can always make
use of the parking of the adjacent supermarket Coop, also free of
charge. Take the tramway (get the ticket first, or you can also send
a sms from your phone to the number 4880105 writing “ataf”)
and you will reach Piazza Stazione, in 20 minutes. If you do not do
this you have two alternatives: park in two parking spaces that you
will find proceeding in the direction of Florence/Galluzzo, one is
left immediately after the junction, the other to the right side after
two hundred meters, both have bus stops next. Or, past the motor-
way exit toward Florence and reach the Piazzale di Porta Romana,
go past the door and make immediately reverse to the left, turn
right before going out again from Porta Romana and go in park-
ing along the walls, € 2 per hour: you shall not go ahead when the
traffic light is red, it cordons the ztl off, you will surely get a tick-
et; a possible option is to park outside the walls, in Viale Petrarca,
slightly cheaper. There are also other alternatives, parking in Piazza
Stazione, a very expensive pay and display parking, the parkings
of S. Ambrogio and of the Parterre, but coming from Chianti you
should move along the avenues of Piazzale Michelangelo and the
bypass avenues often congested by traffic.

86
 Excursions from San Casciano

To Siena.  Is a simpler journey, the car is cheaper here because

along the sgc fi-si it is possible to reach the town in about 50
minutes; to park your car you can use the parking lot of the train
station adjacent to the city center (see “Siena parking” entry). Al-
ternatively exit the sgc at Poggibonsi center, park at the train sta-
tion (free parking), take the train and after fifteen minutes you will
arrive in Siena.
To San Gimignano.  Although there is a bus service in operation,
the best means of transport is the car. Take the sgc fi-si, exit at
Poggibonsi north, at the roundabout take the second exit, follow
the signs and you will arrive at your destination in 15 minutes.
To Certaldo.  The car is absolutely the best means of transport;
you have two options, get out of San Casciano and take Via Cert-
aldese, this route is a bit longer but surely nicer. You will cross the
Tuscan countryside and its magnificent landscapes. The alternative
is represented by the sgc fi-si, where you can exit at Poggibonsi
Nord and take the regional road 429 to Certaldo. A little shorter,
but less eye-catching road.
To Volterra.  Again, the fastest means of transport is the car; you
can take two roads, the Volterrana that you must take at Cerbaia
Val di Pesa and that will lead you through the territory of Montes-
pertoli and its gorgeous landscapes. You will get to Volterra in just
over an hour. Another option is to take the sgc fi-si, exit at Colle
Val d’Elsa and reach Volterra. The routes are both stunning, there
are no big differences in time. It is up to you to choose the route
that fits your needs better.

87
 GREVE IN CHIANTI

On the map

88
89
GREVE IN CHIANTI 

Historical outline
The territory of Greve has ancient origins, already in the Mid-
dle Ages it was included in the Florentine county of the Diocese
of Fiesole. Formerly Greve was a small village in the plebarium
(the jurisdiction territory of a parish priest or the whole of the
faithful who belong to a parish church) of San Cresci di Montef-
icalle, the current Montefioralle. Being in a strategic position, at
the junction of an important crossroad that connected the ma-
jor access roads of the time, it was immediately conceived as a
market. Its history is closely linked to its commercial function;
at the center of the main square, today’s Piazza Matteotti (pre-
served nowadays almost identical to the medieval square), goods
were exposed while the loggias served as shelters for livestock.
This is recalled by its triangular shape, which traces the three
main routes (the Chiantigiana, the roads to the Valdarno and the
Val di Pesa), which were also important pilgrimage routes. Be-
ing at the center of this important road junction allowed Greve
to achieve a strong and rapid development; the businesses flour-
ished so quickly to obscure those of the nearby villages of Strada
and Rubbiana. Favored by the fact of being in the middle of a
densely populated area, rich in important churches and castles,
Greve began to increasingly converge the commercial interests of
the area. Important nearby castles, Montefioralle, Panzano, Lam-
ole and Lucolena, made the village their main point of reference.
As already mentioned, the ancient and beautiful square with its
elegant colonnades was the place devoted to the trading activ-
ities and is still today home to important events and the heart
of the village. The oldest settlement in Greve was situated on the
San Francesco hill, where a small monastic settlement would have
been built and developed around the convent and the main square.
Located half way between Florence and Siena Greve and all its
surrounding territory benefited from the extraordinary period of
cultural, artistic and economic growth of Tuscany’s two main cit-
ies. Moreover, the regular presence of many Florentine aristocrat

90
 Greve in Chianti today

families in their country residences provided an educated class

which contributed greatly to the development of the area. Greve
in Chianti was the birthplace of the great navigator Giovanni da
Verrazzano, born in the homonymous castle near the town; his
statue stands in the center of Piazza Matteotti. It was only after
the Unification of Italy and the formation of the Comune that
the old Greve market place became the most important village in
the valley and of all Chianti area.

Greve in Chianti today

Approximately 30 km from Florence, borders on the municipalities
of San Casciano in Val di Pesa and Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Imprune-
ta, Radda in Chianti and Castellina in Chianti. It is the seat of im-
portant events which involve the entire territory of the Black Roost-
er, see the annual exhibition market of the Chianti Classico region
that takes place every year throughout the month of September in
Piazza Matteotti. Easily reachable from Florence through the Via
Chiantigiana, but also from other villages, in particular San Cascia-
no and Impruneta, Greve certainly deserves a visit, is a picturesque
and relaxing hamlet, where it is pleasant and relaxing to stop and
enjoy the essence of the Chianti territory with interesting things to
see [Figure 26 Square of Greve, p. 313]. Since 1999 is slow city: this s a
matter of importance, let’s see why, telling how it all began.
Between the end of the eighties and the nineties Slow Food was
born, at odds with the spread of fast foods and their philosophy,
about food and about life. Its founder Carlo Petrini imagined Slow
Food as an instrument for the safeguarding of the traditions of
the territories and their typical products. In the wake of this the
then Mayor Saturnini pursued the aim to extend this concept and
expand it to the defense of the territory and its traditions deeper,
proposing a model of life on a human scale as an alternative to the
widespread globalization. Other important towns have followed
and shared this path, in particular Barberino Val d’Elsa, adhered to
the Village Terraneo Plan, which aims to protect the development

91
GREVE IN CHIANTI 

of the small towns of South Europe, proposing these places as val-

id alternatives to mass tourism. Monteriggioni, where every year
takes place the Slow Travel Festival, develops an analog concept,
the diffusion of the contemplative tourism focused to discover the
territory and its artistic peculiarities, its landscape and culinary
specialties in opposition to hit and run. The center of the town is
the beautiful Piazza Matteotti, surrounded by ancient colonnades
where there are bars, hotels, restaurants, a typical artisan workshop,
and the old and unmissable Macelleria Falorni. At its highest point
is the ancient church of Santa Croce with its precious masterpieces
by famous artists of the time. At the center of the square you will
find the statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano made by the sculptor
Romeo Pazzini in 1913. In the surroundings of the administrative
center there are many hamlets to visit; in this guide we will pro-
vide a list. These are often places that seem thrown in our times
from another era, and reach or barely get above, with the exception
of Strada in Chianti and Panzano, 100 inhabitants. We’re talking
about fantastic places that are worth a visit for the atmosphere that
you breathe, for the panoramas you can admire, for the amazing
things you might see.

Useful addresses
 PHARMACIES
Farmacia Stecchi  Via Cesare Battisti 22, tel. 055 853042.
 ASL AND MEDICAL GUARD
• asl 10 polyclinic and Medical Clinic  Via della Pace 18, tel.
055 854931.
• Grevigiano Volunteer Association Via della Pace 8, tel.
055 853258. Transport sick with doctor on board.
 BANKS
• Banca Carige  Via Vittorio Veneto 29, tel. 055 853580.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta  Via Giuliotti 21-
23, tel. 055 8544974.

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 Festivals and events

• Monte dei Paschi di Siena  Via Galleria delle Cantine 2, tel.

055 8546376.
• Cassa di Risparmio di Firenze  Via Roma corner Piazza Mat-
teotti, tel. 055 853010.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Cambiano  Piazza Santa Croce
8, tel. 055 8546201.
 MUNICIPAL POLICE  Via Colognole 63, tel. 055 853511.
 CARABINIERI STATION  Piazza Matteotti 1, tel. 055 853006.
 POST OFFICE  Via Giuseppe di Vittorio 14, tel. 055 8546731.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE  Piazza Matteotti, tel. 055
8545271/055 8546299, opening hours: from Easter to the end of Sep-
tember open all day from 10 am to 7 pm, Sundays included; from
October until Easter, excluded, 10 am to 1 pm, closed on Sundays. Es-
sential stop to organize your stay, it is located in the wider side of the
square, next to the Town Hall. Excellent and organized tourist office,
can adeptly provide you information and assistance during your stay.
 WHERE TO PARK
Greve Park  Via Luca Cini. To get there after the traffic lights take
the main street, Via Cesare Battisti, and follow the signs towards
Figline A1; after having crossed the bridge over the Greve, turn to
the house with a tower and you have reached your destination.

Festivals and events

4 FIRST SUNDAY OF THE MONTH EXCEPT JANUARY AND FEBRUARY  April-
ante Market. Artisans and not only. Panzano in Chianti, local mar-
ket along the streets and in town square.
4 FOURTH SUNDAY OF THE MONTH FROM FEBRUARY TO NOVEMBER  Il
Pagliaio, Biological Market. Greve in Chianti, Piazza Matteotti.
Trade show of organic products of the territory.
4 FEBRUARY  Street Carnival. Strada in Chianti. Carnival floats
and confetti in the town square, food stands.

93
GREVE IN CHIANTI 

4 18-19 MARCH  Fritters party. Montefioralle. Tasting of the tradition-

al dessert of San Giuseppe’s day along the ancient streets of the village.
4 EASTER MONDAY  Mercato delle cose del passato (Objects from the
Past Market). Greve in Chianti, Piazza Matteotti. Antique dealers
exhibit their objects in the town square.
4 25 APRIL  Festa della stagionbona. Panzano. Party for the start of
the spring-summer season, food stands and shows.
4 25 APRIL  Spring Festival. Strada in Chianti, Piazza Landi. Exhi-
bition of paintings, food stands, flea market.
4 MAY  Festa del Giaggiolo. San Polo in Chianti. The typical flower
of the Tuscan hills is celebrated during this fest with wine, oil and
specialties of the country tastings. Musical performances.
4 MAY  Flower Festival. Greve in Chianti. The nursery gardeners of
the area exhibit their own products, the beautiful Piazza Matteotti is
colored with sparkling colors.
4 MAY  La vetrina delle città slow (The slow city showcase). Greve in
Chianti. Show market of handicraft products, joined by the cities
of the international network of good living.
4 MAY  I vini del Castello (Castle wines). Montefioralle. Wine &
music, exposition of wines and typical products.
4 JUNE  Profumi di Lamole (Lamole Perfumes). Festival of wines
and typical products of Lamole along the streets of the hamlet,
food stands.
4 JUNE  Chianti’n rock. Panzano in Chianti, rock music concerts at
the village’s sports field.
4 FROM JUNE TO SEPTEMBER  Summer at the Poggio. Poggio alla
Croce. Shows and gastronomy isolated somewhere in Chianti. The
event takes place on Saturdays and Sundays.
4 JULY  Stars and merchants. Strada in Chianti. Night craftsman
market with music and shows.

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 Festivals and events

4 JULY 10TH / AUGUST 20TH Stars and merchants. Greve in Chianti.

Night craftsman market in Piazza Matteotti 5-11 pm.
4 JULY  Stars and merchants. Panzano in Chianti. Night craftsman
market in the town square with music and entertainment.
4 JULY  Dalla spiga al piatto (From Spike to dish). Strada in Chian-
ti. Exhibition of ancient vehicles and machines used in agriculture,
entertainment shows in Piazza Landi, pasta party.
4 JULY/SEPTEMBER  Lamolese Concert Summer. Concerts during
the weekends, held in the cathedral of the country.
4 JULY  Chiave di vino in terrazza. Greve in Chianti. Classical mu-
sic and tasting of Chianti Classico on the panoramic terrace of San
Francesco Convent.
4 END OF JULY-EARLY AUGUST  Summer evenings. Panzano in Chi-
anti. Musical events along the streets of the village.
4 AUGUST  Concerts at the Castle and on the terrace. Da Verrazza-
no Castle and terrace of San Francesco museum, Piazza Matteotti.
Greve in Chianti.
4 SEPTEMBER  September Fair. Greve in Chianti. Fair and market
in Piazza Matteotti.
4 SEPTEMBER  Processione del Diotto. Greve in Chianti. Traditional
and solemn procession in honor of the Patron Saint of Greve that
sees the participation of the village quarters, the confraternities
and the Giuseppe Verdi Philharmonic Orchestra of Panzano.
4 SEPTEMBER  Expo trade show of Chianti Classico. Greve in Chianti.
Three days of exhibit for the biggest Gallo Nero fair. The producers
of the Chianti Classico show their products in Piazza Matteotti.
4 SEPTEMBER  Strada in fiera. Strada in Chianti. Following the
footsteps of the ancient fair, week of shows, music, games, chal-
lenges between the quarters, street markets, food stands along the
streets and squares of the village.

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GREVE IN CHIANTI 

4 SEPTEMBER  Vino al vino. Panzano in Chianti, 4 days of music

and shows, tastings of the Gallo Nero, food stands.
4 SEPTEMBER  Montefioralle divino. Montefioralle. Two days of tast-
ings of Chianti produced around the village, shows, food stands.
4 OCTOBER  Rioni in piazza (Districts in the square). Greve in Chi-
anti. Parade through the streets and Piazza Matteotti of the histor-
ic districts in period costumes.
4 OCTOBER  Chestnut Festival. Lucolena. Festival dedicated to this
fruit from the surrounding woods, markets, shows and food stands.
4 DECEMBER 24  Living Nativity. Lucolena.
4 CHRISTMAS  In Greve and in the surrounding areas, during the
Christmas holidays, many initiatives are organized. These initia-
tives vary from year to year, so we suggest you gathering informa-
tions first-hand directly in loco at the competent offices.

Food and…
UNICOOP SUPERMARKET  Via Vittorio Veneto 76, open morning
and afternoon, closed on Sundays.
LA BOTTEGA DEL PANE  Piazza Matteotti 89, tel. 055853859, in ad-
dition to an exquisite bread, it bakes excellent desserts.
ANTICA MACELLERIA FALORNI  Piazza Matteotti 71, tel. 055 853029,
always open. Well visible in the square, behind the statue of Giovan-
ni da Verrazzano, this ancient shop seems to have been operational
since 1806 and that from 1890 it occupies its current position. It is,
rightly, one of the most renowned worlds of traditions and tastes
in the Chianti area. Today the store continues to keep an “ancient
bottega” atmosphere alive in every room, with its white marble
counters, wooden shelves, antique slicers and original utensils bear-
ing the signs of the business of the past. The permeating fragrance
of cured meats and the warm colours of the prosciutti hanging from
the ceiling complete the sensory experience. A successful restoration

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has transformed, for the better, this already typical place. Now there
is a Bistro next to the shop, a sort of unconventional tasting room,
where you can enjoy mixed platters of cold cuts and cheeses of the
area (cheeses are stored in a crypt created under the dining room),
the typical “fettunte con l’olio novo” (toasted bread with “new oil”),
the sandwiches, the cream of chickpeas, the ribollita or the pappa al
pomodoro, the braised wild boar on toasted bread, the mixed stewed
with green sauce, the inevitable cantucci and vinsanto and taste the
wines, both those of the house or other labels using the Wine Card
as at the enoteca. All this at affordable prices, which become very
honest when considering the location. To try at least once.
VECCHIE CANTINE ENOTECA FALORNI Piazza delle Cantine 6, tel.
055 854363/055 8546404, 10.30 am to 8 pm, open from Easter to
mid-September/early October, in other months shorter opening
times, to find out more contact directly the wine shop. Enoteca Fa-
lorni is the largest enoteca in Tuscany featuring over 1,000 selected
wines with more than 100 wines available for tasting, and is locat-
ed underground in the historical centre of Greve. This structure,
with a total surface of 600 square meters. Entering, in the eyes of
the visitor materializes the magical world of the Black Rooster, you
see a mosaic of labels of the different producers and you realize
you are in an authentic temple to wine. As we said, inside there are
more than 1000 labels, 140 of them dedicated to the tasting, in addi-
tion there are the spaces dedicated to its majesty the Chianti, one is
reserved for white wines, a vault houses the other great Tuscan and
Italian wines (Tignanello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Brunello, Barolo etc.),
then there is a space for wines from further Italian regions as well as
sparkling wines, dessert wines, grappa and olive oil. Using a special
prepaid wine card you can experience a relaxing tasting journey,
with a minimum recharge of € 10, tasting all the desired wines
thanks to the presence of 13 enomatic tasting islands. A tasting itin-
erary is suggested inside the wine shop. The tasting of wines can
be combined with the excellent cutting boards with cold cuts, of
the homonymous butchery, and cheeses produced in the area. All

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day long are served excellent small, medium, large cutting boards of
cold cuts, cheeses, special sandwiches, croutons, salads and tartares At
lunchtime, pappa al pomodoro, in spring, summer and autumn, while
the ribollita is served only in winter. Second courses: arista, stewed
wild boar, even salads, then the desserts: cantucci, zuccotti, sorbetti and
a special vinsanto ice cream with cantucci crumble produced by the
Vivoli ice-cream parlor in Florence. In addition to put itself forward
as a tasting point, the wine shop is increasingly turning to be a meeting
place where you can stop chatting or reading in absolute tranquility
in front of a good glass of wine, a coffee, a cocktail or a tasty chopping
board. Occasionally in concurrence with special events the wine shop
is open until late at night.

What to see
 PIAZZA MATTEOTTI Center of the village life, meeting point
for inhabitants and tourists alike, its characteristic arched loggias
that once offered shelter to the cattle, today are the setting for the
square. This portico continues to serve as the frame for boutique
shops, artisan workshops and restaurants. It hosts many shops,
of all kinds, restaurants, shops and handcraft shops that sell local
products. Among these: the Antica Macelleria Falorni, La Botte-
ga dell’Artigianato where hand-woven wicker and willow baskets
are found, olive wood objects, hand-painted ceramics, Landi An-
tichità, next to the Logge bar, sells antique and handcrafted rustic
furniture and wrought-iron products. In the opposite arcades there
are two beautiful handcrafted embroidery shops, Giachi Grazia
and just beyond Valoriani embroideries. On the opposite end of
the square from the government building, is the beautiful Santa
Croce Church: on the site where there was a small medieval chapel
it was demolished at the beginning of the last century to make way
for new construction. Enshrines precious works of art, the most
important are: fresco of the xiv century depicting the Madonna
with Child and a triptych by Neri di Bicci dating back to 1420, a
small table with the Annunciation, beautiful work of the 1300’s of

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 What to see

uncertain attribution, a wooden Crucifix of 1500-1600 set behind

the high altar. The square is the stage of all the most important
events, from the typical Saturday market, to the antiques exhibi-
tion, to the Expo trade market of the Chianti Classico. It is a re-
al showcase, a three-day exhibition during which conferences on
wine and viticulture interchange, and take place events, meetings
and shows that make the Chianti area worthy of its majesty; this
exhibition sees the presence of major wine producers. If you want
more detailed information on this and other events, we suggest you
contacting the Tourist Information Office in the square next to the
town hall [Figure 27 Cave for storing cheese, p. 314].
 SAN FRANCESCO’S CONVENT / MUSEUM OF SACRED ART Opening
hours: from April 1st to October 31st, Mondays and Wednesdays
closed, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays 4-7 pm (open in the morn-
ing only by request of groups or schools), Saturdays and Sundays 10
am-1 pm and 4-7 pm. From November 1st to March 31st, closed
from Monday to Saturday, open only on Sundays 10 am-1 pm and
3-6 pm. Cost of tickets: € 30 full price, reduced € 10. Information
and reservations at the museum of San Francesco tel. 055 854485 or
you may contact the tourist office.
It was built in the first half of the xvi century for the monks from
the convent of Santa Croce at San Casciano and stands on a hill
just past the start of the old road that leads up to Montefioralle. It
was really a Hospice, as no monastic community ever lived there
permanently, and was used as an overnight lodging for Franciscan
monks travelling from Florence to Siena and vice versa, or as a
shelter for the friars who came to collect alms in the territory of
Greve. It was suppressed by the Napoleonic laws, and the friars
came anew into possession of the structure, that was definitively
abandoned it in 1866. The Hospice was first used as a prison, until
1927, and then converted into a private house. Since September
2002 it houses the Museum of Sacred Art and since December
2004 it has also an archaeological section containing the finds
discovered in the area. The part dedicated to Sacred Art contains

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important works from the Churches of the area, paintings, sculp-

tures, jewelery, religious vestments and sacred furnishings from
the xiv to the xix century and is divided into thematic sections
to make the visit easier. Adjacent to the museum there is a doc-
uments center that informs visitors about the main works pres-
ent in the Churches and in the Parishes of the territory. These
are some of the works contained within it: The Annunciation,
a fourteenth-century panel from the Church of Santa Croce in
Greve, Madonna and Child between Sts. Bartholomew and Francis
thought to be a youthful work by Francesco Granacci, dating from
the last decades of the xv century, Madonna and Child enthroned
between St. Anthony Abbot and Lucy carried out by an anonymous
Florentine painter in the first decades of the xvi century, from the
church of San Martino a Sezzate, and marble basrelief of St. Fran-
cis in that comes from the Church of San Piero at Sillano. This
work was executed in a style that had gone out of fashion, though
traces of the new xv century trends can be seen in the movement
of the hood and the soft carving of the marble. Above the altar of
the oratory is located the most important work on display: the
great polychrome terracotta that depicts the Lamentation over the
Dead Christ. It is composed of seven statues and occupies its orig-
inal position above the high altar, in an arched niche decorated
with wreaths of fruit and flowers and topped with a cherub. In the
sacristy in addition to the religious vestments there are: a precious
a xiv century, second half, reliquary cross in rock crystal made
to contain relics of the wood from the Holy Cross and of various
saints, a fourteenth-century small stained glass window portray-
ing St. Sylvester. The room containing church furnishings boasts
various religious objects that were used during liturgical service.
In the Painting section at the first floor contains several canvases
of the xvii century among which stands out the Assumption of the
Virgin (1640) at first attributed to Jacopo Vignali. The museum is
very close to Piazza Matteotti, just take Via Roma and then Via
San Francesco which is the second street on the left.

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 What to see

 MUSEO DEL VINO  Under construction, it is located in front of

Enoteca Falorni, crossed Viale Vittorio Veneto; the museum cele-
brates two centuries of Chianti’s artisan and winemaking tradition
and features artefacts, collected over the years by Lorenzo and Stefa-
no, which bear witness to the evolution of winemaking techniques,
from crushing to bottling to labelling. The exhibition hall is a tribute
by the Falorni family to the local land and its history, born of a de-
sire to preserve and display the genuine “wine culture” of Chianti.
Books and machinery will illustrate the evolution of this product,
which in addition to being now a famous brand in the world, and
an important source of income for a relevant part of the population,
has become more and more the maximal symbol of a territory. An
obligatory stop that, through the knowledge of wine, allows a better
understanding of the soul of a rugged, wild, beautiful land.
 MONTEFIORALLE  The ancient fortified village of Monteficalle, to-
day Montefioralle, at a short distance from Greve in Chianti, counts
just over one hundred inhabitants and is considered one of the most
beautiful villages of Italy [Figure 28 Panorama of Montefioralle, p. 314].
The origins of the castle go back to the year 931. During his trip from
Cluny to Rome, a German monk named Tanchelmo founded a for-
tified monastery, in German military style, on top of the hill of Mon-
tefioralle. The castle is mentioned for the first time in a document of
the year 1085. Over the years, it belonged to the families of Ricaso-
li, Benci, Gherardini and Buondelmonti. Its position was extremely
strategic being located along the ancient Via del Guardingo di Passig-
nano, the only link between the three main valleys of the Florentine
countryside (Val d’Elsa, Val di Pesa and Val di Greve) with the Upper
Valdarno. The village has developed around an ancient feudal settle-
ment, the urban plan consists of a main road from which small alleys
branch off. Just after having passed the small Piazza Santo Stefano at
the beginning of the road you can see Il Cassero, now transformed in-
to a residential unit. On the outside, next to the door there is a plaque
that indicates it as the home of Amerigo Vespucci, some claim that it
was his birthplace, obviously it is an error, in fact the famous navigator

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was born in Florence and later moved to Seville where he died in 1512
[Figure 29 Montefioralle, p. 315]. The plaque recalls that this house was
the dwelling of the last descendant of the Vespucci family, who bore
the name of the great explorer and is buried in the small cemetery of
the village. His tomb is still a pilgrimage destination for many Amer-
ican tourists who pay homage to the last member of the family who
discovered the new world. The walls, perfectly preserved alternating
with towers, are dated between the xiii and the xiv century. To visit
the Church of Santo Stefano, patron saint of the village, is in Gothic
style even if it presents some baroque elements due to the restoration
of the xiv-xiii century. Inside it collects works of painters dated be-
tween the xv and the xvii century. Inside, a single nave houses sev-
eral valuable works. Saint Michael Archangel, Jacopo, Stefano and
Domenico, a painting by Orazio Fidani dated 1647; depicting the
Annunciation and Saints of the Master of Sant’Ivo and dated be-
tween 1395 and 1400; the most valuable work, the panel of the Ma-
donna and Child of the so-called Master of Montefioralle.

Where to eat
In addition to the countless facilities that offer catering, we provide
a list of some restaurants in Greve.
RISTORANTE DA VERRAZZANO OR LOCANDA DI GREVE [€€]  Piazza
Matteotti 28, tel. 055 853189, opening hours: from the end of March
to October 12 am-3 pm and 7.30-10 pm, in the remaining months it
is open with the same opening times but is closed on Sundays for
dinner and on Mondays. Historic restaurant in Greve, The Giovan-
ni da Verrazzano Restaurant can seat 80 people inside and has a fur-
ther 50 places available on the terrace overlooking the magnificent
main square in Greve in Chianti. Adjacent to the da Verrazzano
hotel, it offers a warm hospitality, combining a love of gastronom-
ic traditions with a special regard to giving a comfortable and up-
to-date welcome to visitors: a beautiful place that adds value to the
tastiness of food, here the fries are made only with extra virgin olive
oil. Maybe the prices are medium high but, given the quality of the

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food, are normal. Among the dishes we point out: ribollita, pappar-
delle with wild boar sauce and duck “porchetta” style.
RISTORANTE IL PORTICO  Piazza Matteotti 83, tel. 055 8547426,
opening hours: from April to the end of October 12 am-2.30 pm
and 6-10 pm, closed on Wednesdays. From November to the end
of March, closed on Wednesdays, open only for lunch except Fri-
days, Saturdays and Sundays in which it maintains the same open-
ing hours: 12 am-2.30 pm and 6-10 pm. Typical and welcoming
family-run restaurant, offers its customers dishes based on fish and
typical Tuscan cuisine, among these to mention pappardelle with
wild boar sauce and pennette with the scent of Chianti Classico,
the fillet of meat with lardo di Colonnata and the inevitable Flo-
rentine steak. Excellent wine list, affordable prices, a good place.
ENOTECA DEL GALLO NERO  Via Cesare Battisti 9, tel. 055 853734,
closed on Thursdays, open all the other days for lunch and dinner
12 am-3 pm and 6.30-10 pm. Located at the crossroads leading
into Piazza Matteotti this welcoming restaurant serves its guests
the typical Tuscan menu: the ribollita, the pappardelle with wild
boar sauce and of course the grilled meats with inevitable “Floren-
tine” steak deserve a special mention. Prices in the standard.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA LA CANTINA  Piazza Trento 3, tel. 055 854097,
open from April to mid-November every day from 9 to 12 pm,
mid-November, December and March same opening hours but is
closed on Tuesdays, from January 7th to the end of February closed
for holidays. Perfectly restored, this beautiful restaurant pizzeria “La
Cantina” was born out of the historic premises which many years pre-
viously had been the coal house of the old steam railway that passed
through the Chianti hills linking Greve to Florence; today it serves
good pizzas, second courses based on fish, meat and tasty homemade
desserts. The restaurant organizes cooking classes and serves glu-
ten-free dishes and is a member of the aic, Italian Celiac Association.
TRATTORIA D’I BORGO  Via D. Giuliotti, tel. 320 0731455, closed
on Fridays, open all other days 10.30 am-10 pm. A few steps from

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Piazza Matteotti, it’s a nice place to dine out at favorable prices;

good pizzas, cold cuts and salads, excellent wines.
LA BOTTEGA DEL MORO  Piazza Trieste 14, tel. 055 853753, closed on
Tuesdays, open all the other days  11.30 am- 2.30 pm and 7-10.30 pm.
Typical Tuscan local in the heart of Greve, here in addition to taste the
typical Tuscan specialties, you will stay in close contact with the an-
tiques, the other great passion of the restaurant manager. You will dine
in the middle of old and characteristic antique pieces while enjoying
the dishes suggested in the menu. The house wine is also excellent.
RISTORANTE LA CASTELLANA [€] Via di Montefioralle 2, tel.
055 853134. Small and quaint family-run restaurant by the side of
the beautiful village of Montefioralle, offers excellent cuisine in an
attractive location; in spring and summer you eat outside. Panora-
ma guaranteed.
IL PANINO DI EMILIO  Via Garibaldi 7, tel. 338 5062915, open daily
from 11.30 am to 3.30 pm. Small and cozy room with rustic furni-
ture, good place for a light meal, a quick snack or excellent sand-
wiches filled with local cold cuts; a must taste is the extra-special
stuffed chicken, a great specialty of the house.
RISTORO LA PIAZZETTA  Via delle Cantine 43, tel. 338 4936957,
closed on Mondays, open for lunch all the other days from 12
noon to 2.30 pm, dinner from 7 to 10.30 pm; in the off season,
until March, closed for dinner also on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
Next to the Coop and Enoteca Falorni, this basic restaurant is a
little bit of everything, hash house, bistro, restaurant, and so on:
here you can have snacks, breakfast, quick lunches and dinners. In
fact they prepare pizzas, appetizers, first courses, platters of cold
cuts and cheeses, meat dishes. Everything is appetizing and at af-
fordable prices, really a good place.
CIRCOLO ARCI PIZZERIA RISTORANTE LE CIVETTE  Via Luca Cini 5,
tel. 055 853284, always open for lunch, except on Sundays, always
open for dinner, except on Mondays. Inside the Citizen’s Center

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 Bars and ice cream parlors

(Casa del Popolo) of Greve, to get there turn at the traffic light of
the road with the indication Figline, A1, then past the bridge on
Greve turn right: the restaurant is 50 meters from the intersec-
tion. Here you can enjoy pasta, pizzas, meat at good prices, good
cuisine. Large parking in front of the place.

Bars and ice cream parlors

CAFFÈ LEPANTO  Piazza Matteotti 4, tel. 055 853040. You can en-
joy a coffee or an ice cream while sitting comfortably admiring the
beauyiful historical local square and its loggias.
GELATERIA DA LORENZO  Viale Vittorio Veneto 68. Nice restau-
rant very close to the historic center on the main street that crosses
the town, serving good quality homemade ice creams.

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 Near Greve in Chianti

Panzano in Chianti
Delightful and ancient village with the name of Roman origins
(however the Etruscan finds found in the area suggest something
even more ancient). The first important documentation dates back
to the xi century when the village developed around the castle. Lo-
cated on top of a hill almost 500 meters high, which separates the
valleys of the two main rivers of Chianti: the Greve and the Pesa.
Panzano is halfway between Florence and Siena, but this was not a
fortunate circumstance for the village that, being on the border be-
tween Florence and Siena, was repeatedly the scene of fierce clashes
between the two belligerent cities. In fact, its castle, fundamental
hub of the Florentine defense system, was destroyed twice, in 1260
and 1397. The period of misfortune continued in the xv and xvi
centuries when its control has passed several times from one city to
another with further looting and destruction. Of the ancient town
are still visible most of the old walls, and the antique medieval cen-
ter that revolves around the church of Santa Maria Assunta and its
beautiful surrounding alleys. A tip for those arriving by car, if you
do not find a place to park continue to the provincial road 118, the
one to San Leolino, and you will find, well signposted, a large park-
ing lot; a very short walkway will lead you later in the old village of
Panzano.
 USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Dottor Coriglione Via della Conca d’Oro 17, tel.
055 852023.
• Misericordia  Via Giovanni da Verrazzano 60, tel. 055 852251.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena  Piazza Bucciarelli, tel. 055 8520121.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta  Via Chiantigiana
64, tel. 055 85292.
• Post Office Via xx Luglio 1, tel. 055 852549.

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 Panzano in Chianti

WHERE TO MAKE SHOPPING

• Unicoop Supermarket  Via della Conca d’Oro 103, closed on
Sundays, other days open morning and afternoon.
• Alimentari forno a legna di Giordano Palma Luciano Via
Santa Maria 3, tel. 055 852740.
 WHAT TO SEE IN PANZANO IN CHIANTI
• Church of Santa Maria Assunta  Fully integrated into the castle
was completely rebuilt in the xiv century on the remains of an
old church. Gorgeous outdoor stone staircase. It houses within it
a small Madonna with Child of the xiv century attributed to Bot-
ticino. In the oratory to the right of the nave there is an Annunci-
ation attributed to Michele di Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio. Walking
through the surrounding streets you will feel projected into an-
other era, following the paved road that connects the two parts of
the country you will come across small shops and craft shops that
display artifacts and works by local artists. Today its greatest attrac-
tion for the visitor is the butcher’s shop run by Dario Cecchini.
• Pieve of San Leolino and Oratory of San Eufrosino  Both out-
side the village, to get here continue along the S.S. 222 Chian-
tigiana, past the last houses on the left there are the indications
to San Leolino, a few hundred meters ahead on the right there
is San Eufrosino. The Parish Church, preceded by an elegant
16th-century portico, is a fine Romanesque church. From the
terrace there is a panorama of the countryside, unspoilt except
for the new suburbs of Panzano itself. The three naves interior
contains some very precious works of art. The extremely early
altarpiece of the Madonna between Sts Peter and Paul, and sto-
ries from their lives, is attributed to Meliore di Jacopo (mid-13th
century), and the charming triptych with the Madonna with
Child between Saints Caterina, Peter and Paul is by a 14th-cen-
tury artist named from this work the Master of Panzano. The
polyptych over the high altar, Madonna Enthroned and two
angels, is by Mariotto di Nardo, and the two glazed terracotta
tabernacles are attributed to Giovanni della Robbia.

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GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

• Oratory of San Eufrosino  A pilgrimage destination during the

Middle Ages, it takes its name from a local saint, the Church
dates back to 1441 and has Gothic features, in the chapel there
is a Romanesque altar, probably derived from the previous ora-
tory. The Church is open only for concerts and exhibitions (in-
formation at the tourist office in Greve in Chianti) but it is still
worth a walk for the enchanting position and the beautiful view
that can be admired, being in the middle of what is called “la
Conca d’Oro”, the Golden Hollow.
[Figure 30 Vineyard near Panzano, p. 315]
[Figure 31 Residence near Panzano, p. 316]

WHERE TO EAT
• Ristorante solo ciccia e Antica macelleria Cecchini [€€]  Via
xx Luglio 11, tel. 055 85272/055 852020, time: lunch at 1 pm,
dinner at 8 pm steak menu, 2 rounds at 7.00 pm and 9.00 pm
for menus with platters and barbecues. The Officina has a 50 eu-
ros per person fixed menu. Not to be missed, closed during the
Christmas period, always open for lunch and dinner on other
periods. This characteristic place is managed by Dario Cecchini,
a volcanic figure, well-known in the Chianti area and beyond.
He is the butcher poet, declaims Dante and the verses of the Di-
vine Comedy, on the shirts of the waiters is reported the famous
verse written by Dante “abandon hope all ye who enter”. During
the mad cow disease he celebrated the funeral of the Florentine
steak. A formidable promoter of the territory and of Tuscany.
In the adjoining butchery sells excellent and delicious meats,
here is placed the reception of the restaurant offering guests an
aperitif. In the restaurant the meat is the lion’s share, the steak is
sublime, the other meat used for grilling is fantastic. Exquisite
cutting boards with cold cuts and cheeses are also served.
• Cantinetta Sassolini  Piazza Ricasoli 2, tel. 055 8560142, open-
ing hours: closed on Wednesdays, the other days open for lunch
and dinner 12 am-3 pm and 7-9 pm. Nice restaurant in the his-

108
 Panzano in Chianti

toric center of Panzano in an elegant building of 1200. Excellent

cuisine, good value for money, serves the typical cuisine of Chi-
anti. In winter, elegant rooms with furnishings from the 1700s
and a beautiful fireplace will welcome you for your lunches and
dinners, while in summer you will be served in a beautiful gar-
den where you can taste the typical Chianti cuisine. To try!
• Ristorante Oltre il giardino [€] Piazza Bucciarelli 42, tel.
055 852828, opening hours: from Easter to October open every
day for lunch and dinner, then reopening at Christmas until
6 January, from 6 January to Easter only open on Sunday for
lunch. On the main square of the village, a good traditional Tus-
can restaurant, beautiful interior room with fireplace and pan-
oramic windows, beautiful terrace used in the summer months
with beautiful views of the entire valley. Taste the tortelli mugel-
lani or the tagliatelle with pigeon ragu, good also the pappardelle
with wild boar and in general meat main courses, honest prices.
• Pasta e pizza [€]  Via Chiantigiana 33, tel. 055 852336. This place
is located on the main street of Panzano, serves good appetizers,
pasta, excellent pizzas and homemade desserts.
BAR AND ICE CREAM PARLORS
• Bar La curva  Piazza Bucciarelli 10, tel. 055 852664. On the
main street at the entrance to the village, coming from Greve, a
nice place with good homemade ice creams and excellent coffee.
• Bar pasticceria Sieni  Via Chiantigiana 2, tel. 338 3276545. On
the main street also, nice place, not big, good pastries, excellent
ice cream.
RESTAURANTS AND FOOD BORGO DI VOLPAIA AND SURROUNDINGS
(A short distance from Panzano)
• La bottega trattoria di Lucarelli  tel. 0577 733538. Located in
Radda in Chianti, open for lunch and dinner, by reservation,
closed on Fridays. As happened to many typical shops Chianti,
this small grocery store has also become a trattoria. It’s not big
of course but the food is good, the place is quiet, the atmosphere

109
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

is relaxed. Those who stop just for snack will not be disappoint-
ed, here you can taste good sandwiches filled with delicious
cured meats. The shop is on the main road of the village, road
that connects Panzano to Radda.
• La bottega di Carla  Castello di Volpaia, Piazza della Torre 1,
tel. 0577 738001, open for lunch 12.30 am-2 pm and for dinner
7-10.30 pm, closed on Tuesdays. In winter open for lunch and
dinner until January, then closed until mid-March. Beautiful
restaurant, which is also a food shop, in a small enchanted vil-
lage where time seems to stand still, in the summer you can
eat outside under a beautiful pergola admiring the amazing
surrounding landscape. Excellent traditional Chianti and
Tuscan cuisine, mentioned in numerous specialized maga-
zines, among which the Michelin guide, good value for mon-
ey, definitely worth trying. In front of the restaurant, Carla’s
sister runs a nice Wine Bar, where sitting comfortably you can
admire the wonderful little square tasting wines and making
excellent snacks.

Lamole
Small, delightful village about 600 meters above sea level, one of
the many where time seems to stand still. Because of its peculiarities
it is a candidate to become a historical landscape of Italy. Crossed
by two narrow streets that connect three tiny squares, this quiet
village has a restaurant (The Lamole restaurant, good panoramic
and expensive), a small church of the xiii century where classical
music concerts are held from July to September (for more infor-
mation contact the Tourist Information Office in Piazza Matteotti
in Greve in Chianti), and a small grocery store. The road that, past
Greve, climbs to Lamole is a truly spectacular, and offers fantastic
visions on panoramas, old villas and perfectly restored farmhouses.
The origin of the name is not clear, perhaps derives from the word
“la mola”, grindstone, referring to the outcropping rock on which
the castle is built. This was erected on a buttress above the valley of

110
 Looking for a different Chianti

the river Greve, it was part of the Florentine defensive network in

the border territories with Siena. The village has an elliptical shape
with a circumference of about 600 meters, most of the castle walls
were for a long time an integral part of the houses. However, the
ancient walls are still visible on the northwest side of the hamlet.
Like the nearby castle of Panzano, also Lamole castle was destroyed
in 1478 during the clashes that opposed Florence to Siena. It was
rebuilt after the defeat of the Sienese, maintaining its important
defensive function. With the definitive submission of Siena, the
military function of the place was lost, the houses and the towers
were transformed into country residences of the rich Florentine
nobility. New houses were built using the stones of the demolished
walls. Some old paved roads, called Roman roads although many
are actually medieval, are still accessible, one of them starts from
the castle and arriving at the bottom of the valley crosses the Via
Chiantigiana, another instead comes to Panzano skimming the
beautiful and ancient villa of Vignamaggio, which belonged to the
Gherardini family: here spent her holidays Lisa Gherardini, the
famous Monna Lisa immortalized by Leonardo da Vinci in the fa-
mous painting La Gioconda. In this ancient street there was a reli-
gious procession in the fifties to propitiate good crops in the fields.
[Figure 32 Church near Lamole, p. 316]

Looking for a different Chianti

Road to Valdarno.  A few kilometers from Greve along the Chi-
antigiana road, in direction of Florence (attention: between the
town of Chiocchio and Spedaluzzo there are beautiful panoramic
points), past the village of Spedaluzzo (but you can also take the
route directly from Greve through the Strada provinciale 16 that
leads directly to Dudda and make the reverse route following the
provincial road 66), there is a beautiful road that follows the an-
cient route that connected the Chianti with the upper Valdarno
and Arezzo. This path crosses a beautiful and wild valley dotted
with small hamlets with few inhabitants, here the hand of man is

111
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

less evident, there are no works of art to admire, there is only to fill
your eyes looking at the harmony and the beauty created by nature.
In fact there are extensive woods, small villages with very few resi-
dents and the vineyards that so much characterize the territory are
not the primary component of the landscape. But this is absolutely
a way you should go, you will see the most rugged and wild part of
Chianti, you will merge yourself in the atmosphere of the past and
you will find excellent and cheap restaurants to stop. Definitely a
day well spent. Here is what you will see.
Castello di Mugnana  Placed in a strategic position on the ancient
Roman road of the Val di Cintoia, connecting the Chianti to the
Valdarno and Arezzo. This was an important means of communi-
cation, due also to the presence of a Roman bridge near Ponte agli
Stolli (Stolli Bridge) and castles such as Mugnana and Sezzate, on
the opposite hill, that controlled all comings and goings. The tower
and the walls of the castle were built at the beginning of the tenth
century by the Lombards Its strategic position made it the most
important fortress, first for the Lega di Cintoia (Cintoia League)
and later, for the defense of Florence. It was within the castle’s walls
that in 1198 an agreement was reached that gave birth to Lega To-
scana (The Tuscan League). [Figure 33 Castello di Mugnana, p. 317].

Cintoia
After passing the castle of Mugnana you reach after a few minutes
the tiny village of Cintoia: this village has played a role of great
historical importance. In its castle, today almost completely de-
stroyed, was established in 1300the League of Cintoia and Rob-
biana, which would then join the League of Greve forming the
podesteria, ancestor of the current municipality. Continuing and
passing the small hamlet La Panca the road begins to descend and
after a few kilometers you reach the small village of Lucolena. Con-
tinuing towards the Panca you will find the pizzeria Il cielo, a nice
place to stop [Figure 34 Sunset on Cintoia, p. 317].

112
 Cintoia

 WHAT TO SEE IN CINTOIA

L’anello di Cintoia, a path in the heart of Chianti  Beautiful ring-
route on the ancient Etruscan road, then Roman and medieval, that
in ancient times from the Cintoia valley descended towards Florence.
It starts from the parish church of Mugnana, here continuing along
the provincial road we find on the right the path 18. The steep climb,
difficult in case of rain, leads to Case al Monte. Continuing on the
left we find the observation point of Case Venagrossa. Going down
we arrive at the hamlet of La Panca and then at the ruins of the castle
of Cintoia. After passing the castle we turn right and arrive at a mead-
ow where the path seems to end. On the right there is a small pas-
sage through the scrubs that leads, after crossing a small bridge, to the
houses at Molino. Following path 18 again we meet the B&B Vecchio
Molino. Continuing, the road climbs and leads to the junction with
a narrow path, taking it we meet (we are in one of the most beautiful
points of the path) the medieval paving. Here we arrive at the small
cascades on the Rio Sezzate and shortly after at the ruins of an ancient
mill. Later we meet Filicaia houses with an important source and then
the castle of Sezzate, not open to visitors. Turning left going down the
olive tree fields, we come across a ruin, it was the old house of the tax
collectors. In ancient times, in fact, the castles of Mugnana and Sez-
zate were placed on a boundary line between opposing feuds to cross
it and it was necessary to pay the duties. After passing the house, we
cross the Rio Sezzate again, crossing a beautiful medieval bridge. We
are now near the castle of Mugnana, also not open to visitors. Going
back to the provincial road we get to the starting point, the parish
church of Mugnana. This itinerary, one of the most beautiful in Chi-
anti, is not difficult, it can present difficulties in case of rain, but you
have to be used of walking because the entire ring requires a few hours
of walking. The route can be head out from any location mentioned,
if done in the opposite direction the difficulties are minor.
WHERE TO EAT ON THE ANCIENT VIA ROMANA
• Pizzeria Il cielo [€]  Via Cintoia alta 15, tel 339 3238887, from
May to September, open for dinner from Wednesday to Sunday,

113
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

from October to April open for dinner from Friday to Sunday.

In the small village La Panca there is this beautiful family run
Pizzeria, excellent starters, first courses, cold cuts and pizzas,
moderate prices, quiet place, worth a stop.
• La Botteghina di Dudda food and restaurant  Località Dudda
12, tel. 055 8549020, opening hours: the food shop opens at 9.30
am. The restaurant opens for lunch and dinner, in high season
and on Christmas holidays, every day except Mondays, from
12.30 am to 2.30 pm and from 7.30 pm to 10 pm. From Novem-
ber to Christmas and from 7 January until Easter open every
day for lunch, dinner only on Saturdays and Sundays. Dudda is
a small town under the medieval village of Querceto, surround-
ed by silence and nature, here waiting for you there is one of the
most typical places of Chianti, the ancient, now restored but
not overturned, Dudda’s little store. Rustic, cozy, family-run,
country restaurant, is one of the typical places that focuses on
more activities, The pantry, a typical space where the products
of Chianti are sold, the grocery store where they make succulent
snacks with delicious cured meats and the adjacent B&B. Here
it is possible to taste and taste the typical Tuscan dishes, from
pici Tuscany style to the cutting board of the house with the
“sbriciolona”, to the cacciatora rabbit not to mention steaks and
tagliata and tripe and lampredotto. Good wines of the house.
Moderate prices.

Lucolena
This tiny village, where recent excavations have brought to light
Etruscan finds unearthed under the castrum and now exposed in the
special section of the Museum of Sacred Arts in Greve, was built on
the remains of the ancient castle. Here on the main square is the Arci
Society, run by volunteers, you can stop for dinner, on Sundays you
can also have lunch, enjoying appetizers, pasta, pizzas and desserts.
Cheap prices. Here takes place (inquire well on the dates at the tour-
ist information offices), two beautiful parties, the Festival of schiac-

114
 San Polo in Chianti

ciata in June and the Festival of chestnuts in October, on both occa-

sions you will find food stalls, games and music shows. Continuing
in about 15 minutes, along a very nice road you get to the village of
Radda. Continuing in the direction of Florence you can go back to
Panzano and from there in a few minutes to Greve.
 USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Dottor Stecchi Via dei Castagni 62, tel. 055 851004.
• Post Office  Via Gino Capponi 5, tel. 055 851150.
WHERE TO EAT IN LUCOLENA
Casa del popolo [€]  Via delle case sparse 1, tel. 055 851065, closed
on Mondays, open for lunch all the other days from 12.00 am to
2.30 pm. Dinner from 7 to 10.30 pm. In the off season, until March,
closed for dinner on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Great place always
crowded, popular prices, excellent appetizers, starters and pizzas.
The restaurant is in the center of the village.

San Polo in Chianti

Small village near Strada in Chianti: to get there take the Via Chian-
tigiana and past the locality of Spedaletto and the junction leading to
the castle of Mugnana turn right following the indication San Polo.
Here in May (inquire about the dates at the tourist information of-
fices) there is the festival dedicated to Giaggiolo, a typical flower of
Tuscany that in the past was also an important economic resource, in
fact its peeled and dried bulb was used to produce fine perfumes and
it was much appreciated by the French industries of the sector; this
tradition is still alive today even if in a very reduced way. The feast
lasts four days during which in addition to the inevitable food stands,
there are games and shows. Worth a visit is the Romanesque church
of San Miniato in Rubbiana, located in the homonymous street in
the center of the village, whose existence is ascertained from 1015; re-
cently restored has three naves with raised presbytery and semicircu-
lar apse, also, in the Church there are two paintings of considerable
value; a beautiful copy of the Santissima Annunziata of Florence and

115
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

a Madonna with Child, by Francesco Curradi, which offers the Ro-

sary to Saints Dominic and Francis and to Saint Mary Magdalene.
 USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Public Assistance  Via Stefanini, tel. 055 855366.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena Via Poggio alla Croce 2b, tel.
055 855007.
• Post Office  Via Fiorentina 13, tel. 055 855386.
FOOD AND...
Oleificio Pruneti  Via dell’Oliveto 24, tel. 055 8555091, open Mon-
day to Saturday from 9.30 am to 6.30 pm. A true excellence! Near San
Polo, a modern structure with a high technological level, it recalls an
ancient tradition revived by the scions of the Pruneti family, Gionni
and Paolo, who inherited from the grandfather the passion for culti-
vating the land. The two young entrepreneurs have introduced work-
ing methods that are inspired by today’s knowledge on the subject.
They have combined the teachings of their grandparents with con-
tinuous research and cutting-edge technology so that their olives can
give all their generous heart and character with extra virgin olive oils
rich in nuances (for example, latest generation machines, inertized
with nitrogen, allow a crushing with the least oxidative impact, which
preserves the freshness and quality of the extra virgin olive oil; the
olives are harvested by hand at different times, according to optimal
ripening levels, and are pressed within four hours. The fruits arrive in
the crusher, they are separated by leaves and small branches and then
washed in cold water). Thus obtaining an oil of absolute excellence.
This place certainly deserves a visit, here you can also make tastings
of oil produced by the mill and other local products. The company is
also specialized in the production of saffron and iris.
WHERE TO EAT IN SAN POLO IN CHIANTI
Ristorante La posta or La greppia [€€]  Viale Lavagnini 14, tel.
055 8555125. Opening hours: 12 am-3.30 pm for lunch and 7-10.30
pm for dinner, in winter it closes after the Epiphany and reopens in
March. Typical welcoming Chianti restaurant with a double name:

116
 Strada in Chianti

it takes its name from the old post house, excellent cuisine, honest
prices, to taste pici with duck ragu. To get there, turn right at the
junction with the post office in the center of the village.

Strada in Chianti
Crossed by the Via Chiantigiana this town boasts a remarkable art
work inside the Church of San Cristoforo: it is a wooden Crucifix
of 1440 by Neri di Bicci. The restoration of 1990 brought to light
an apse of the year 1000 under the current high altar. On the third
Sunday of September takes place the Country Fair, Strada is divided
into five districts, in the past horse races were organized, but today
the districts compete in a carousel, a series of games ranging from ta-
ble football to the tournament of trump (Briscola), five-a-side foot-
ball and volleyball. The competition starts on Monday and ends on
Saturday, on Sunday there is a parade of the districts that seek to ex-
cel with the most beautiful carts. At the end the winning district is
proclaimed and awarded with the Cencio dell’Orcio. Food stalls are
also running here for the duration of the party. In the village there
are some excellent restaurants: Il Caminetto del Chianti, the Padel-
lina restaurant and the Circolo Arci where the Festival of Frattaglie
takes place in March and November, in addition to traditional dish-
es, those poor foods that have had so much importance, and they
have, in Tuscan cuisine, tripe and lampredotto.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Dottor Rosini  Via Palmiro Togliatti 3a, tel. 055 858002.
• Carabinieri Station  Piazza Enrico Landi 16, tel. 055 858004.
• Post Office  Via Giuseppe Mazzini 1, tel. 055 8588894.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta  Via G. Mazzini
131, tel. 055 8572347.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena  Piazza Landi 18, tel. 055 858014.

WHERE TO MAKE SOME SHOPPING

• Antica macelleria Mastrocicciaio Via Borgo Paoli 1, tel.
055 858039. This old butcher shop has ancient roots, the Secci fam-

117
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

ily opened their first store in the nearby town of San Polo in 1856.
Since then the family tradition has continued uninterrupted to the
present day, delighting the palates of its customers with excellent
and tasty meats and superb cured meats. But this place is also some-
thing else, it is takeaway gastronomy, delicious the ribollita and the
pappa al pomodoro, but of course you can taste cold cuts and meat
dishes. Furthermore, it organizes a wonderful aperitif every Mon-
day, if you are interested, ask by phone or on the Facebook page.
• Antico Pastificio Fabbri  Piazza Landi 18, tel. 055 858013. This
ancient pasta factory was born in the heart of Chianti in 1893.
Since then the Fabbri family has started a qualitative path that
is constantly evolving and has reached the present day. Current-
ly, products of absolute excellence are processed, the result of a
process that has technically evolved but has maintained strict
quality criteria. Almost exclusively Tuscan grains are processed
and the production processes take place under the threshold of
38°C, so to have a finished product it can take up to six days
of drying. Among many excellences we will mention two of
them; pasta with antique wheat, Senatore Cappelli, and coco-
nut spelled pasta, certified organic. Those interested in visiting
the pasta factory can call the number above.

WHERE TO EAT AT STRADA IN CHIANTI

• Ristorante Padellina [€€] Corso del popolo 54, tel. 055 858388,
closed on Thursdays, open all the other days for lunch and din-
ner. Da Padellina. In a pleasant location, at a crossroads on the
Chiantigiana. Also, with tables outside. Good, simple food –
try the pollo al Vin Santo, the excellent Florentine steak, the
penne with rooster ragu, the peposo dell’Impruneta and so on.
Excellent selection of wines. Dante scholars enjoy the propri-
etor’s skills at reciting the Divine Comedy a rare example of the
historic oral tradition in Tuscany.
• Il caminetto del Chianti Via della Montagnola 52, tel.
055 8588909, opening hours: Tuesdays closed full day, Wednes-
days closed for lunch, remaining days open for lunch and din-

118
 Go for castles and cellars

ner. This good restaurant is just beyond the village of Strada,

coming from Greve, nice place and good food, self produced
bread. To taste the tagliolini alla lunigiana, with pachino toma-
toes and lardo di Colonnata and the chicken roasted on the grill
under a brick (pollo al mattone).
• Pizzeria il giardino di Strada [€]  Via Jacopo Strada, tel. 389
6213577, open from January 2nd to March 9th for dinner from
Thursday to Sunday, from March 10th to all December closed
on Mondays and open all the other days for dinner. Located
inside the Casa del Popolo, this place serves first and second
courses of meat, excellent pizzas and desserts and, for lovers of
street food, tripe, lampredotto and various offal; here in March
and November takes place the offal festival. Nice panoramic
garden for summer dinners.
• La dispensa di Andrea di Gregorio Piazza Landi 1, tel.
055 8588957/328 6458034, closed on Tuesdays, open the other
days from 7 am to 9 pm, Friday, Saturday and Sunday closing
at 11 pm. Located in the center of Strada in the building that
was the venue of the ancient Fabbri pasta factory, still operating
(see pasta factory Fabbri). In this place are consumed breakfasts
and aperitifs, lunches and dinners. There is a large room for the
tasting of the 800 wine labels and a sector dedicated to the sale
of typical excellent quality products, including pasta from the
nearby Fabbri pasta factory. The products of southern Italy are
sold on Fridays, among these, the greatest specialties, the can-
noli and the cassata from Carini. You can enjoy cutting boards
with excellent cheeses and cold cuts, pizzas and desserts. In the
summer you can eat outside in the large garden where musical
performances are held and there are comedies played in the
Florentine vernacular. Great place, nice atmosphere, moderate
prices. La dispensa sends products on request worldwide.

Go for castles and cellars

You are spoiled for choice, practically almost all farms offer tours or

119
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Near Greve in Chianti

tastings or visits of the cellars, we suggest a combination of castle and

cellars, convinced that this mix is the best.
• Villa Vignamaggio (see where to sleep historic houses). You
can visit the historic cellars, the gardens of the villa, make wine
tastings and degustation of cold cuts. The visits are made every
day and scheduled twice (to be checked): 11.30 am, 4.30 pm in
the afternoon. To book, if you are not a guest of the villa, call
055 854661, also for the reservations at the restaurant.
• Castello di Vicchiomaggio (see where to sleep historic houses).
You can visit the gardens and the old cellars [Figure 37 Cellars Vic-
chiomaggio, p. 319] with tastings and degustations, visits are carried
out every day, in the morning and in the afternoon. For informa-
tion call 055 854078, also for the restaurant.
• Castello di Verrazzano (see where to sleep historic houses)
Guided tour of the garden and cellars with tastings and degus-
tations every day, morning and afternoon, for information, even
for the internal restaurant, call 055 824243 [Figure 35 Castello da
Verrazzano, p. 318].

Other things to do
TOURISTIC NATURALISTIC GUIDE MARCANTONIO PIACENTI tel. 328
6124658. Organizes excursions to the various villages, routes on foot,
by bicycle and along the paths.
HORSES AND CARROTS IN GREVE IN CHIANTI  tel. 055 853189. Orga-
nizes tours to discover the landscapes around Greve, or to farms with
visits and tastings in farmhouses and wineries.
STEDOP (van rental with driver)  tel. 335 431513. Organizes ex-
cursions to the most famous places of Chianti and the nearby cities
of Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo. Virtually all reach-
able within an hour or so by car.

120
 Itineraries from Greve in Chianti

Itinerary A
Greve → Montefioralle → Badia di Passignano
→ Sambuca Val di Pesa
DURATION 1 DAY

This itinerary will take you to admire some of the most beautiful sights
in the Chianti area. Starting from Piazza Matteotti turn left, a panoram-
ic road will lead you in a few minutes to the beautiful medieval village
of Montefioralle, here you can visit the beautiful Church, walk the old
streets, admire the landscape and the views that are presented before
you. After the visit continue to the provincial road 118, turn right at the
first intersection, after a few hundred meters you will come across the
ancient church of San Cresci. Then continue the march in the direc-
tion of the provincial 118 turning right towards Mercatale-San Cascia-
no, at the first crossroads turn left towards the abbey Vallombrosana
of Badia a Passignano, stop to admire the view from above that goes
from the river Pesa to hills of Tavarnelle, left by the narrow road, you
will reach the abbey in a few minutes. Going forward you will cross the
provincial road 94 if you turn right yo go to Bargino and San Casciano,
turning left you will reach Sambuca Val di Pesa, stop to admire the
old Roman bridge on the Pesa, next to the bridge there is the Francini
butchery, a good place where to stop for lunch, honest prices. From
Sambuca in 3 km you can get to the beautiful village of San Donato in
Poggio, walk through the town and do not miss the beautiful Church
of Santa Maria delle Grazie, if you arrive at lunchtime and feel a certain
“languorino”, we recommend a stop at Locanda di Pietracupa. If you
want to visit Tavarnelle and Barberino Val d’Elsa, after Sambuca Val
di Pesa follow the signs for Tavarnelle, about 6 km away, here you can
admire the Pieve di San Piero in Bossolo, the tiny village of Tignano.
After the visit, going further, you will arrive in a few minutes to the
medieval village of Barberino with its beautiful old town enclosed in
beautiful and well-preserved walls.

121
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Itineraries

Itinerary B
Greve → Panzano → Castello di Volpaia → Radda
DURATION 1-2 DAYS
A beautiful and interesting itinerary that will take you to some places
in the Sienese Chianti area. Starting from Greve, following the Chi-
antigiana road in the direction of Radda and Siena, you will reach
the ancient village of Panzano after 5 km, stop well worth it, enjoy a
beautiful view of the Greve valley and admire the old streets around
the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, visit the parish church of San Le-
olino and the Cecchini butcher shop, an authentic institution in the
town. After the visit continue to Radda in Chianti, you will find the
village of Lucarelli, if you pass here in the afternoon and you want to
have a snack stop at the workshop of Lucarelli (superb salamis and
delicious snacks), a little further ahead be careful on the left you will
find the indication Volpaia. Follow it and soon you will arrive in a tiny
enchanted village where time seems to have stopped. Lose yourself
in the tiny and deserted lanes, the visit lasts a few minutes, stop for
a break, in the square in front of the tower there is the restaurant the
shop of Carla, excellent with a beautiful pergola where you can dine
in summer. Not far away is the medieval village of Radda, located
on the ridge that acts as a watershed to the rivers Arbia and Pesa,
visit the Church of San Niccolò and the Palazzo del Podestà, walks
through the ancient streets. Nearby are Gaiole in Chianti, 5 km and
Badia Coltibuono ancient abbey transformed into a farm, residence
with an excellent restaurant, the place is very nice, it seems to be re-
ally out of this world. The former abbey can be visited every day from
May to October, however if you are interested in the visit, please call
0577 74481.

122
 Historic Houses

Where to sleep

Historic Houses
|high prices|
  VILLA VIGNAMAGGIO  Via Petriolo 5, tel. 055 8546653. Ancient and
beautiful villa of the xiv century, set of numerous films (in 1993 Ken-
neth Branagh chose it to shoot his “Much Ado About Nothing”),
offers to its guests accommodation of blazing beauty immersed in
the Tuscan countryside, a truly dreamlike environment. Lisa Gherar-
dini came here to spend the summer, belonging to the ancient and
aristocratic Gherardini family, wife of the wealthy merchant Fran-
cesco del Giocondo, who became Prior of the Florentine Republic.
She is the very famous Monna Lisa portrayed in Leonardo da Vinci’s
Gioconda. Here you can stay, at an appropriate price, in the suite that
bears her name. Another tradition says that in the middle of the xvi
century, Vasari identified the woman in the painting as Monna Lisa
Gherardini (1479-1542), daughter of Anton Maria di Noldo Ghe-
rardini and wife of Francesco del Giocondo, from where the present
name of the painting, The Gioconda, is derived. Beautiful wineries
that can be visited combined with tasting and degustations. Mag-
nificent swimming pool and excellent spa with turkish bath. Ob-
viously high prices rising a bit if you choose to stay in the Monna
Lisa suite. wi-fi free, in the villa there is a great restaurant open for
lunch Monday to Friday and for dinner Monday, Wednesday and
Friday. How to get there: past the village of Greve, turn left follow-
ing the indications to Lamole, you will arrive in a short time. Near
the shops and restaurants of Greve and Panzano.
  AGRITURISMO VILLA IL LECCIO  Via Case sparse 35, Strada in Chi-
anti, tel. 055 8586103. Splendid home of the xviii century that be-
longed to the historic Landi family, to whom the main square of
Strada in Chianti is named. It features a beautiful swimming pool
and a well-kept garden. The elegant interiors are highlighted even

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GREVE IN CHIANTI  Where to sleep

more by the furniture, all antique. The hotel has a traditional restau-
rant, serving only typical dishes accompanied by olive oil and wine
produced in the area. Excellent breakfast, on request served in the
garden, based on sweet and savory products and freshly baked cakes.
Inside there is an ancient chapel perfectly restored. The agriturismo
is just 3 km from Ugolino golf and a few kilometers from Florence.
wi-fi free. To get there: take the A1 and exit at Firenze Sud, take the
S.S. 222 Chiantigiana in the direction of Greve, once arrived at Stra-
da in Chianti follow the signs Agriturismo il Leccio, you will arrive
in a few minutes.
  VILLA LE BARONE  Via San Leolino 19, Panzano, tel. 055 852621.
This beautiful and luxurious hotel, nested in the Tuscan country-
side, is an old villa of the xvi century; the Villa, which has belonged
to the Della Robbia family since the 16th century, has been turned
into a luxury hotel where guests can relax and resource themselves
away from the stress and hassle of city life. This warm and inviting
home, filled with character and historic features, provides all the
services and amenities you need for a genuinely relaxing break in
stunning surroundings. They boast an infinity, salt water and heat-
ed swimming pool, tennis court, fitness trail and offer relaxing ter-
races overlooking our lovingly tended rose gardens, the surround-
ing olive groves and vineyards. There are a number of cosy lounges,
with antique furniture, paintings, rare books and romantic objects
from the family’s past, where people can relax, and, in autumn, en-
joy reading by the fire place. Breakfast is buffet style, wi-fi free,
pets not allowed. Of course, the prices of the apartments and the
suites are different, if you are interested, inquire at the hotel or on
the website https://villalebarone.com. To arrive: past the village
of Greve, continue for about 6 km towards Panzano, just before
leaving the village turn left into Via San Leolino and you will ar-
rive after a few hundred meters, close to the structure the beautiful
church of San Leolino, reachable on foot.
  CASTELLO DI VICCHIOMAGGIO Via Vicchiomaggio 4, tel. 055
854078. Historic 14th century castle located on top of a hill with

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 Historic Houses

beautiful surrounding views. Wonderfully restored in the early

80s, it is now a popular, comfortable residence, offering double
rooms, apartments, junior, classic and superior suites all superbly
furnished. Beautiful gardens, that can be visited as its beautiful
cellars where you can make tastings and degustations, every day in
the morning (11.30 am) and in the afternoon (at 4.30 pm), time to
be verified the moment you book. Obviously the castle also has a
beautiful swimming pool and an excellent restaurant, lunches are
served in a Renaissance hall, this buffet breakfast is very popular.
Excellent wines that have received numerous international awards.
For apartments and suites consult the property, wi-fi free. To
reach it: exit at Firenze Sud, follow the signs for Greve, after about
18 km on your right you will see the castle, pay attention to the
indications to the castle on the right.
  CASTELLO DI MUGNANA  Via di Mugnana 106, tel. 055 8572021.
Historical residence of Lombard origins before the year one thou-
sand, it belonged to the noble Florentine family of the Bardi. In
a dominant position on the entire valley, it was part of the defen-
sive hinge of Florence, has been the subject of careful restoration,
which also earned him recognition by the Association of Italian
historical residences, witnessed by a commemorative plaque placed
inside. This beautiful castle practices surprisingly low prices in rela-
tion to the services offered. Its beautiful rooms, double, suites, are
all inside the castle, some of them are inside the tower in a domi-
nant position and offer beautiful views. Below are the ancient cel-
lars, obtained in the former billets of the soldiers, which will be
open to visitors when the restoration works are completed. Beauti-
ful outdoor pool and surrounding park. Because of its beauty and
its location it often hosts, mainly on weekends, events of various
kinds, meetings, weddings, etc. wi-fi free. To reach it, along the A1
exit at Firenze Sud, continue in direction of Greve taking the Via
222 Chiantigiana, past the village of Strada in Chianti turn left at
the second street of Mugnana, direction Dudda, Lucolena, you will
arrive in a few minutes. The property does not have a restaurant,

125
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Where to sleep

but do not worry you can eat at the nearby restaurants of Strada
and those of Greve, which are about 6 km away.
  CASTELLO GINORI DI QUERCETO  Via Francois 2, tel. 055 85921. Lo-
cated in the medieval village of Querceto [Figure 36 Castello di Quer-
ceto, p. 318], in the immediate vicinity of Dudda, this beautiful 1200
castle offers beautiful views and 12 excellent equipped apartments
that can accommodate 2 to 6 people. Lovely place, out of everything
but close to everything, beautiful swimming pool, lovely garden. On
request breakfast for € 6. You can visit the old cellars combined with
tastings of three wines, cheeses, fettunte, salami for € 10/15. Near the
castle, by the ancient Via Romana, there is an ancient watering hole,
probably also of Roman origin. Pets allowed on request, wi-fi free.
To get there: take the A1 exit at Incisa val D’Arno, go towards Fig-
line Val d’Arno and follow the signs for Lucolena and Dudda. The
castle has no restaurants but the Dudda little store awaits you for
delicious snacks and succulent meals at honest prices.
  CASTELLO DI VERRAZZANO  Via di Citille 32, tel. 055 854243. We
have included it in this price category, although these may be
slightly higher than average prices, because in our opinion there
is a value for money more than excellent. This ancient residence of-
fers its guests double rooms, triple rooms and apartments for 2 and 4
people, minimum stay 3 nights for the latter, perfectly furnished, of
great comfort and elegance. The internal tavern offers typical dishes
of traditional Tuscan cuisine. Guided tours to the historic cellars are
available, for tastings and food degustation, every day at 10 am and
at 3 pm, lasting about an hour and a half. There is also, from Monday
to Friday, at 11 am the Chianti tradition, a special visit with choice of
gastronomic specialties, tastings of great reserve wine and great vin-
tage, tour of the castle garden, lasting 2 hours and a half. Apartments:
the first day breakfast included, then on request €12 per person. wi-
fi free. To reach it: take the A1 motorway, exit at Florence Certosa
or fi Sud, follow the signs to Greve, arrived at the hamlet of Greti,
at the shop that sells the products of the castle, clearly visible on the
road, turn t right, you will arrive in a very short time.

126
 Around Greve

Around Greve
|average prices|
  AGRITURISMO LE TERRE DI BACCIO  Via Case sparse 10, tel. 328 3952136.
Beautiful structure in ancient and characteristic farmhouse perfectly
restored, placed on a hill in the middle of a 20 hectares park, beauti-
ful surrounding views, beautiful and relaxing pool, which also offers
beautiful panoramas. Peculiar the rooms that combine the typical
Tuscan architecture and Guatemalan decor that creates an unusual
mix giving special atmospheres. The farm is very close to Greve, eas-
ily accessible on foot through the paths that run along the vineyards,
excellent breakfast taken care of directly by Ilaria, the owner of the
structure. Guests are welcomed in the classic double rooms, one also
with access for the disabled, apartments for 3/4/6 people, pets al-
lowed, wi-fi free.
  AGRITURISMO LE CETINELLE  Via Canonica 13, tel. 055 8544745
/338 7529582. Ancient and very quiet farmhouse, deep in the silence
of the Tuscan countryside, ideal for relaxation, is 5 km from Greve.
Perfectly renovated and beautifully managed by Simonetta and
Luca. Excellent breakfast, very nice rooms, the farm offers guests a
wonderful pool and a kitchen where you can prepare meals that can
be eaten outdoors. To reach it: when you get to Greve turn left at
the 3rd traffic light if you come from Florence, the 1st right coming
from Siena, after passing the Greve river follow the road to Mount
San Michele, turn right after 100 m, in corner there is a tower house,
continue along a narrow road, the last stretch of dirt road but per-
fectly accessible, and after 5 km you arrive at the farm. wi-fi free,
pets allowed.
  B&B ANCORA DEL CHIANTI Location Collegale 12, tel. 055
854044/339 1587642. A beautiful agriturismo about 3 km from Greve,
it has double rooms, triple rooms and apartments for 4/6 people. In
a splendid panoramic position, the B&B provides guests with an
equipped kitchen to prepare meals. The excellent breakfast is served
on the beautiful terrace. wi-fi free, pets allowed. To reach it: arrived

127
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Where to sleep

at the town of Greti, 3 km before Greve, past the sign to Greti, pay
attention to the sign indicating the farm, turn left into Via di Citille
(on the right coming from Siena), you will arrive after a few minutes.

On the ancient Via Romana

|low average prices|
 B&B CASA AL CHIANTI 
Location Dudda 12, tel. 055 8549020. Sit-
ed in the center of the small village of Dudda this B&B offers rusti-
cally furnished rooms with tv and private bathroom, located in the
corridor. In the morning, tasty freshly baked pastries, delicious cold
cuts await you for an appetizing breakfast. Attached to the B&B
there are also the small store of Dudda for snacks and lunches or
dinners, and a well-stocked shop with typical products of Chianti.

Strada in Chianti
|average prices|
  AGRITURISMO LA PRESURA Via della Montagnola 191, tel.
055 8587024 /328 2818835. Near Strada in Chianti, about 7 km from
Greve. This beautiful farmhouse located in an older farmhouse has a
beautiful swimming pool, a private lake where you can fish. It produc-
es wine and oil directly and periodically organizes tastings. It has eight
beautifully restored apartments that can accommodate 3 to 6 people.
It does not have a restaurant but if you want a short distance away the
Strada restaurants await you. wi-fi free, pets allowed. To arrive, along
the A1, exit at Firenze Sud, you will arrive in about 20 minutes, go to-
wards Greve, go past the village of Grassina. Just after passing the golf
Club of the Ugolino after 200 m on the right is the farm.

Greve center
|average prices|
 ALBERGO CASA AL SOLE  Viale Vittorio Veneto 82, tel. 055 8546429.
Small, nine rooms available, comfortable and clean family-run ho-

128
 Greve center

tel just a few steps from the central Piazza Matteotti. It offers good
air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms. wi-fi free, pets al-
lowed on request.
 ALBERGO DEL CHIANTI  Piazza Matteotti 36, tel. 055 853763. His-
toric hotel in the central Piazza Matteotti, with swimming pool
and beautiful double, triple, quadruple rooms, air-conditioned
with private facilities, overlooking the inner courtyard and the
square. Beautiful entrance to the hotel with poor art decor, inside
are organized tastings of wine, oil and grappa of handcrafted pro-
duction. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
 ALBERGO GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO Piazza Matteotti 28, tel.
055 853189. Sited in the central Piazza Matteotti, the hotel has 10
double, triple and quadruple rooms; the hotel has also a restaurant
with a panoramic terrace on the square, beautiful, good, costs start-
ing from € 35 per person, wines not included. wi-fi free.
 NELLA PIAZZA B&B  Piazza Matteotti 50, tel. 366 5362547. This
delightful B&B, managed with care by Chiara and her mother, is
on the top floor of an old farmhouse and offers spectacular views
of the square. It has 4 bedrooms, three doubles and one triple room
(ask for the nicest, room 1), and a nice terrace on the back where
you can enjoy a delicious and abundant breakfast of homemade
desserts, savories, fruit and yogurt. The property also has a beauti-
ful kitchen that can be used by guests. wi-fi free.

129
 Excursions from Greve in Chianti

• To Siena.  The best and most beautiful route is the regional

Road 222. It crosses Panzano, Castellina in Chianti, Fonterutoli
and Quercegrossa. The quickest, but less beautiful, alternative is
to take the highway to Tavarnelle via Montefioralle, turn right
and cross the provincial road 118 and turn left immediately in
the direction of Badia a Passignano, from there reach Tavar-
nelle, take the highway in the direction Siena. To park the car
see Siena at the entry where to park. If you want to go by bus,
be informed well, a few daily trips, not very convenient times,
but things are undergoing transformation, so we advise you to
contact the Tourist Office to check on the current time.
• To San Gimignano.  Take the highway to Tavarnelle passing
through Montefioralle, turn right crossing the provincial 118
and turn left immediately in the direction of Badia a Passigna-
no, from there arrived at Tavarnelle, take the highway towards
Siena, exit at Poggibonsi Nord, at the roundabout take the sec-
ond exit following the signs for San Gimignano, you will arrive
in about 20 minutes. The car parks, rather expensive, are next
to the walls. The bus is not recommended, at least for day trips,
inconvenient hours, long times, and a few trips, however it is
worth inquiring at the Tourist Office.
• To Certaldo.  Same road to San Gimignano, the two cities can
also be visited in one day, they are not far, take the sgc fi-si in
Tavarnelle, exit at Poggibonsi Nord and continue following the
signs for Certaldo on the regional road 429 The birthplace of
Giovanni Boccaccio awaits you, once you arrive you can choose
whether to go to the old city placed on top of the walk or by
cableway.
• To Florence.  The bus is the best option to spend a day in Flor-
ence, there are rides in the morning and in the evening, it is
convenient and quickly avoids the problem of parking the car.
For those who want to use the car the best solution is to take

130
 Go to San Casciano

the provincial road 3 after passing the town of Greti in the di-
rection of Florence-San Casciano Via passo dei Pecorai. Passed
the village of Tavarnuzze at the junction of the A1 and the Flor-
ence-Siena take the sgc fi/si and continue to Scandicci, go in
Viale Nenni to the tram stop Nenni Torregalli, there are two
free parking exchanger and that of the Coop supermarket, the
tramway will take you in 20 minutes to the center of Florence.
Otherwise you have two alternatives; after the junction, in the
direction of Florence/Galluzzo, after 100 meters on the left
there is a parking lot, another is on the opposite side after about
200 meters, leave the car and go to the bus stop, number 37,
which is opposite to the parking lots. If you want to continue by
car, not advisable, you should get to the Piazza di Porta Roma-
na, go through the door and immediately turn left at the end of
the adjacent square by reversing, before leaving the door there
is a parking lot on the right that runs along the old walls, keep
in mind that parking costs € 2 for an hour (Warning: the traffic
light signals an electronic door that delimits the limited traffic
area, going beyond it with red means safe fine). Or look outside
the walls in Viale Petrarca or neighboring streets, which is not
easy. An alternative for the car can be represented by the parking
at the Parterre in Via Madonna della Tosse 9, tel. 055 50302209,
parking here costs € 10 for the whole day. If you are in the area
of Dudda, Lucolena or the Panca, it is best to go to Figline Val-
darno station and take one of the many trains (direct ride from
30 to 50 minutes cost € 5.50) to Florence Santa Maria Novella
which is in the center of Florence. Attention do not get off at
Florence Campo di Marte, you would be far from the center.

Go to San Casciano
You can use the directions of itinerary C from San Casciano to
Greve, p. 75. If you leave Greve, take the S.S. 222, Chiantigiana, in
th direction of Florence. At the junction that you find after Greti
continue straight towards San Casciano. When you reach the Gab-

131
GREVE IN CHIANTI  Excursions from

biano bridge, where the wineries of the Grevepesa are located, turn
left towards Mercatale-San Casciano. Before Mercatale on the left
is the castle of Gabbiano, after passing the village in about 10 min-
utes you will be in San Casciano. Here you can choose what to do,
if you visit the capital, the new Antinori cellars, or Sant’Andrea in
Percussina, the last refuge of Machiavelli, or see all three things.
This itinerary is also feasible from Panzano, in this case it is better
to take the SP 118 up to Mercatale. Reaching San Casciano is easy
and fast if you are in the car or on the motorbike, if you are trav-
eling by coach you will have to redimension the itinerary and pay
attention to the timetable.

132
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA

On the map

133
134
 Historical outline

Historical outline
Located 378 m high, in the middle of the Chianti hills between
the valleys of the Pesa and Elsa rivers. About 34 km from Florence,
it borders the towns of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Barberino Val
d’Elsa, to which it was united since 1982, Certaldo, Montespertoli
and Greve in Chianti. Its origins, common to most of the countries
in the entire area, date back to the Middle Ages, but the ancient
Tabernulae was never surrounded by walls because it had no strate-
gic-military importance. It was instead a very important commer-
cial center and an equally important stop and reception station for
pilgrims who wanted to reach the Via Francigena in Poggibonsi
and for those heading to Volterra. Its territory was crossed by the
important Roman road connecting Florence to Siena; in the medi-
eval period it was split into two important arterial roads. The first
one, the Via Francigena, reached Siena and then Rome; the other
shortened the journey to Siena crossing the Roman bridge in Sam-
buca Val di Pesa, San Donato in Poggio and Castellina in Chianti.
The first section of the Roman imperial road favored the develop-
ment of the villages of Tavarnelle, Borghetto and Mocale, which
became the most important built up areas of the Lega di Barbe-
rino; here rose the convent of Santa Lucia. This Gothic church –
now restored – constitutes the parish church of the capital.

Tavarnelle today
The current Tavarnelle is the unification of the three villages (Ta-
varnelle, Borghetto and Mocale). Developing its importance in
recent times, the municipal territory to which it belongs has been
detached from that of Barberino Val d’Elsa in recent times, in 1982.
Although not presenting particular attractions, it is a peaceful and
pleasant place to stay. Its countryside is beautiful, is in the middle of a
very beautiful area with many things to see. It borders with the towns
of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa
and Certaldo. It is easily accessible with the sgc fi-si and might be
the starting point for numerous tours in and out of Chianti.

135
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

Useful addresses
 PHARMACIES
• Farmacia Tanganelli  Via del Mulino 13, tel. 055 8076555.
• Farmapesa  Via del Giglio 22, tel. 055 8071043.
• Azienda Sanitaria Locale  Via B. Naldini 44, tel. 055 693974.
  MISERICORDIA  Via B. Naldini, tel. 055 8076426.
  PEDIATRIC SURGERY  Via della Villa, tel. 055 8073161.
  BANKS
• Chianti Banca  Via Palazzuolo 60, tel. 055 8050174.
• Cassa di Risparmio Firenze  Via Roma 65, tel. 055 805101.
  POST OFFICE  Piazza Matteotti 40, tel. 055 8077909.
  CARABINIERI STATION  Piazza Matteotti 30, tel. 055 8077003.
  MUNICIPAL POLICE Via delle Fonti 16, tel. 055 
8076392
/055 8075674.
  TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE  Piazza Matteotti, tel. 055 8077832.

Festivals and events

For more detailed information on the reported events please con-
tact the Tourist Information Office.
4  EVERY TUESDAY  City market. Piazza Matteotti and surrounding
streets.
4  JANUARY 1  New Year’s Concert.
4  6-7 JANUARY  Christmas Markets.
4  FROM MID-JUNE TO MID-SEPTEMBER  Tuesday Night Market.
4  JUNE AND JULY  Badia Concerts. Musical events in Badia a Passigna-
no. Events take place in the beautiful xv century cloister generally on
weekends. For info, please contact atp Tavarnelle.
4  AUGUST 10  Calici di stelle. Wine and other tastings under the
stars.

136
 Food and…

4  AUGUST MONTH  Color Vibe. “Color” Marathon.

4  DECEMBER 13  Saint Lucia Feast, patron of Tavarnelle.
4  DECEMBER  Christmas Markets. For timetable information call
055 8050837.

Food and…
  UNICOOP SUPERMARKET  Via Giorgio La Pira 31, open 8 am-10
pm, Sunday 8.30-1.30 am.
  ALIMENTARI STEFANELLA E FRANCO  Via Roma 176, tel. 055 8077837.
  YOU CHIANTI CULTURAL ASSOCIATION  tel. 329 0907575. Contact
also Filippo: [email protected]. It is, as mentioned, a
cultural association, which also promotes companies and activ-
ities of the territory, mainly that of Tavarnelle. Among its pro-
motions: farms, events related to craftsmanship, hot air balloon-
ing and cycling, photographic exhibitions organized by Andrea
Guasti, local photographer, cooking classes (excellent the class on
homemade pasta), organized by Mrs. Wilma, well organized, ed-
ucational and fun.

What to see
 PIEVE DI SAN PIETRO IN BOSSOLO  Via della Pieve. This Church is
already mentioned in a document dated September 7, 998, but its
construction dates back to the xi century. The basilica has three
naves with semicircular apses, the façade is preceded by a large
portico while the original bell tower, of which remains a bell from
1290, was in a different position compared to the current one. The
three naves are divided by quadrangular pillars; entering the Pieve
you can see on the left a beautiful baptismal font of the year 1000
carved from a hexagonal monolith, on the same side you can find
the chapel of the Madonna delle Grazie, where there is a ciborium
in marble from 1522. In the beautiful internal portico in late me-

137
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

dieval style, supported by octagonal pillars, you can admire some

ancient bells; continuing and going up to the first floor you find
the Museum of Sacred Art. If you love hiking, biking or horseback
riding, from the pieve the path No. 5 is a beautiful dirt road that
will take you to Via del Cerro, then you can turn right and after an
hour or so you will arrive in San Donato in Poggio [Figure 38 Kiosk
S. Piero in Bossolo, p. 319].

 MUSEO DI ARTE SACRA  Via della Pieve, (free admission, days/

hours of visits: winter, Saturdays and Sundays at 3.30-6.30 pm;
summer time: Saturdays and Sundays at 4.30-7.30 pm – consult the
Tourist Information Office or the Museum Friends Association at
055 8077195/055 8077050/055 8077147). This interesting museum
enshrines fascinating works from the Churches of various areas.
There are paintings by important painters of the time, ancient sa-
cred furnishings and ex voto that explain the observants devotion
to the Holy Mother. Its entrance is close to San Pietro in Bossolo,
the works are exhibited in three different rooms of the Canonica
and in the corridor of exit.
Prima sala (First room). On the first floor in the central hall are
exhibited the works from the plebarium (the jurisdiction territory
of a parish priest or the whole of the faithful who belong to a parish
church) of San Pietro in Bossolo; here there are beautiful paintings
of the Florentine school, most of them ascribable to members of
the Bicci family, exponent of the most traditionalist current of Flo-
rentine painting and owner of an active and famous artisan shop in
Florence towards the end of the 14th century. The main works on
display are: Madonna with Child and Saint Giovannino by Lorenzo
di Bicci of 1385-1390. Neri di Bicci, son of Lorenzo, is the author of
the following works: Lamentation on the dead Christ of 1473, Ma-
donna with Child St. Nicholas and angels Raffaele and Tobia 1473,
portrait of Fra Luca Lanfranchi of 1475, portrait of Niccolò Sernigi
always of 1475. You might also admire the Madonna with Child
and Saints Martino and Sebastiano of the Master of Tavarnelle of
1510 and the Madonna delle Grazie, the first half of the xv century,

138
 What to see

by Rossello Jacopo Franchi. However, the most famous work in the

room is Madonna with Child and two Angels of Meliore di Jaco-
po, from the second half of 1200. To finish the visit, in the center
of this room there are the silverware of the Churches, divided on
the basis of the provenience from different churches; among them
you can see two twentieth century crosses and furnishings of 1600-
1700 of Florentine manufacture.
Seconda sala (Second Room). It brings together the works of the
plebarium of San Donato in Poggio ranging from the xiv to the
xix century: the oldest table and one of the most important art-
works of the museum is the triptych with Madonna and Child be-
tween San Peter and St. John the Evangelist attributed to Ugolino
di Nerio, dated 1325-1330. Another valuable work is the Madonna
with Child in Throne between the archangels Gabriele and Raffa-
ele of 1470-1480 attributed to the Master of Marradi, four sev-
enteenth-century paintings depicting the Evangelists with along-
side their iconographic symbols, two octagons with St. Francis of
Paola and the Sacrifice of Isacco attributed to the Florentine master
Giovanni Montini dating from 1600-1650.
Terza sala (Third room). It is dedicated to the worship and de-
votion of the faithfuls, there are exhibited wooden and silver reli-
quaries, some paintings representing cult images, including the San
Lorenzo from San Lorenzo to Cortine and San Pietro di Oline by
Stefano Amignoli dated 1770. Notable the two small tables depict-
ing San Luca and San Marco: they are part of a seventeenth-centu-
ry series dedicated to the four Evangelists, these works were made
by an unknown Tuscan school. Interesting the silver Christ of the
Neapolitan school of 1800 coming from Santa Maria to Morrocco.
Corridoio (Corridor). We are at the end of the visit, here are gath-
ered the works that document the popular religiosity and the de-
votion of the people of Chianti to the figure of the Madonna. Rav-
ishing is the Madonna and Child between Saints Rocco and Alberto
di Sicilia of the Florentine painter Antonio del Ceraiolo, next to
it there are three paintings representing as many ex voto to further

139
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

evidence of the devotion to the Virgin Mary, document histori-

cal facts and faith, liberation from the contagion of the plague of
1630-1633, the miracle of a sick lady of 1744, the apparition of the
Madonna with Child to a faithful of 1747. In the corridor there
are also precious liturgical fabrics of 1600-1700 of Italian manu-
facture, some of them bear the coat of arms of the Vettori family.

Where to eat in Tavarnelle center

  RISTORANTE BORGO ANTICO [€€]  Via della Pieve 1, tel. 055 8077097,
closed on Wednesdays, open for lunch and dinner on other days,
opening hours: 12 am-2.40 pm and 6.50-10 pm. Excellent cuisine in
this nice restaurant sited on the edge of the village. Two beautiful
rooms, furnished in typical Tuscan style, welcome customers who
decide to taste the specialties of this eatery, fair garden where meals
are served in summertime. The restaurant is located at the intersec-
tion of the road leading to the Parish Church of San Pietro in Bosso-
lo. In the same building of the restaurant there is the beautiful B&B
Antica Pieve.
  RISTORANTE OSTERIA LA GRAMOLA [€] Via delle Fonti 1, tel.
055 8050321, closed on Tuesdays open all the other days for lunch
and dinner. Nice typical restaurant in the center of Tavarnelle. It
takes its name from the machinery used in ancient times by pas-
ta makers to make the dough smoother and more homogeneous,
guaranteeing a better mixing at the same time. The rooms are fur-
nished with rustic furniture in perfect Tuscan style, good cooking:
we suggest the spelt pappardelle with duck sauce, ribollita, peposo,
steak and homemade desserts; special menus are served for celiacs.
  PIZZERIA LA VECCHIA PIAZZA  Via Roma 58, tel. 055 8076600, al-
ways open for dinner from June to mid-September, opening hours:
7-11 pm, during the other months open for dinner and closed on
Thursdays. This place is set on three levels, most of the tables are lo-
cated in the upper floors;the restaurant is sited in the center of the
village. Very good pizza, delicious appetizers, also excellent dishes

140
 Where to eat in the surroundings of Tavarnelle

based on fish and tasty desserts. Sometimes, especially during the

weekend, given the high turnout, there is a bit to wait but all in all
it is worth it. Possibility of having take-away pizzas.
  PIZZERIA GODI POPOLO  Via Roma 21/23, tel. 320 5510161, closed on
Thursdays, open for dinner all the other days. Small place, for this
reason sometimes crowded, seventies style in the central area, home-
ly environment, genuine, friendly and absolutely informal. The name
gets the idea across perfectly, here it is nice and comfortable, excel-
lent and easy to digest pizzas, good appetizers and first courses, and
delicious focaccia await you as a snack. To go there at least once.
  PIZZERIA CIRCOLO LA RAMPA  Piazza Matteotti 21, tel. 055 8077240,
open on Saturdays and Sundays for dinner. This pizzeria is located in-
side the Arci club of the country, good appetizers, pasta and pizzas,
informal but friendly atmosphere, cheap prices. During the summer
the pizzeria is open to the nearby Mocale park where festivals and
cultural events are held.

Where to eat in the surroundings of Tavarnelle

  RISTORANTE LA FATTORIA [€€]  Via del Cerro 11, tel. 055 8070000,
closed on Mondays, open for lunch and dinner on all the other
days. Nice typical restaurant set in a farmhouse with a nice place to
dine outdoors in the summer; among the specialties the ribollita,
the tagliatelle with wild boar sauce, the baked piglet with potatoes.
It is just outside Tavarnelle, clearly visible on the road leading to the
sgc, after the roundabout turn to the small road to the right and
you have arrived. Place often crowded, especially on Saturdays and
Sundays, booking is recommended.
  RISTORANTE AIA DELLE OCHE  Via di Romita 50, tel. 348 5632940,
open during good weather on weekends and from June to Septem-
ber every day for dinner, on Sundays also for lunch. This place is
a bit of everything, it is an agri-restaurant; here, deliciously, are
cooked only home-grown ingredients, are sold zero km products
of the area, self produced wine and grappa and wines of the nearby
farms. On request they organize snacks: Mrs. Patrizia, creator of

141
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

the farmyard dinners in Montespertoli, manages beautifully with

her husband this very special structure. From this year menus have
been introduced: twice a week you can have pizza with buckwheat
flour (the same used to make pasta dough and bechamel for arti-
choke lasagna), and fish caught on the Tuscan coast. They do not
cook meat generally, but those who want can take it and cook it on
the grill of the restaurant. Fantastic place, with fair prices, from € 15
to € 20 all-inclusive; not to be missed. To get there from Tavarnelle,
take the road leading to the sgc, at the roundabout, where the Fat-
toria restaurant is located, turn left and after a few minutes you will
get there; the restaurant is very close to the Agricamp Romita.

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 The surroundings of Tavarnelle

Passignano
 ABAZIA DI SAN MICHELE ARCANGELO  The place can be visited free
of charge, for information on opening hours contact the tourist of-
fice of Tavarnelle 055 8077832, but you can directly contact the friars
(phone 055 8071171) leaving an offer at the end of the visit, about 40
minutes; bear in mind that the monastery is closed on Thursdays.
Commonly called Badia a Passignano, inserted in a beautiful land-
scape is by far the place of greatest historical and artistic interest in
the surroundings of Tavarnelle [Figure 39 Badia a Passignano, p. 320].
The monastery dates back to the nineteenth century and belongs
to the Vallombrosana Congregation, a community of Benedictine
monks founded in Vallombrosa in 1039, it is likely that this choice
was influenced by Giovanni Gualberto native of the area, who died
here in 1073. The entitlement of the abbey to St. Michael the Archan-
gel suggests that this was founded in the Lombard period, given the
particular predilection of the Germanic people for the warrior an-
gel. The history of this structure is rather troubled, in fact, being in a
neighboring area between the cities of Florence and Siena has found
itself in spite of its will at the center of bitter disputes. It has been
destroyed several times, in particular in the mid-1200s by the Flo-
rentine troops, but it has always been rebuilt until it has reached to-
day’s form. It is currently surrounded by an imposing city wall, which
makes it look more like a castle than an abbey. This is due to the fact
that an owner of Polish origin had the abbey restored by providing
it with boundary walls and crenellated towers. In 1800 in fact the
monastery was subtracted from the monks and began to be used as a
stately villa, then returned to the friars only in 1986. Inside this beau-
tiful structure there is a church with a classic Latin cross shape, built
in 1266 after the umpteenth pyre developed inside the monastery,
and expanded in 1598 with the construction of three splendid cha-

143
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  The surroundings of Tavarnelle

pels: chapel of San Michele Arcangelo, the largest built in 1598 with
frescoes by Domenico Crespi called the Passignano because the orig-
inal of that village, under the dome are placed four plumes represent-
ing the cardinal virtues, prudence, fortitude, justice and temperance.
The chapel of San Giovanni Gualberto is placed to the left of the
chapel of San Michele Arcangelo, inside it houses the sepulcher of
San Giovanni Gualberto, the frescoes are work of Alessandro Allori,
known as Bronzino in honor of Agnolo di Cosimo di Mariano, his
great teacher. In addition to the frescoes in the chapel there are other
magnificent paintings and statues. On the right of the chapel of San
Michele Arcangelo is the chapel dedicated to Saints Sebastian and
Atto, inside, in addition to the frescoes, there is a beautiful Crucifix
of 1500 that, according to some testimonies, would have performed
some miracles. The frescoes tell the life of the saints. The coronation
of the Virgin is depicted on the vault. All the paintings are the work
of the Florentine painter Benedetto Veli. If the external aspect does
not suit a monastery, inside in addition to the three chapels there is a
crypt that was part of the ancient abbey dating back to the year 1000.
Wonderful the Cloister of 1400 [Figure 41 Kiosk of Badia a Passignano,
p. 321], but above all the stupendous refectory where the Cenacolo or
Last Supper is located, work of the great master Domenico Ghirlan-
daio of 1480 [Figure 40 Cenacolo del Ghirlandaio, p. 320], which further
enriches the whole complex. Inside there is a beautiful monastery,
although the five towers that surround it make it look more like a
medieval fortress than a place of worship. In the summer, in June and
July, concerts of classical music take place in the fifteenth-century
cloister (see events and common events of Tavarnelle).
 PASSIGNANO  Outside the abbey there is the small town, which
does not offer anything of particular importance, however it is pleas-
ant to walk and admire the old stone houses in the middle of the
vineyards and of the Chianti hills immersed in the most absolute
silence. In the village there are also two frequented restaurants, the
Vecchia Scuderia up against the abbey and the Osteria Passignano
Antinori behind it.

144
 San Donato in Poggio

  WHERE TO EAT
La cantinetta di Rignana [€€]  Località Rignana 3, tel. 055 852601,
open from 15 March to 15 November for lunch and dinner, closed on
the month of February. In the remaining period open on Fridays, Sat-
urdays and Sundays, lunch and dinner, by reservation. Although it is
sited in the town of Greve in Chianti it is easily reachable from Badia a
Passignano. Beautiful restaurant surrounded by a gorgeous landscape,
this good eatery is cozy either having lunch inside or having dinner on
the beautiful panoramic terrace. Excellent cuisine, we point out the
tagliatelle with chianina ragout or wild boar sauce. Among the main
courses, the stewed wild boar and the peposo, among the barbecued
meat the cockerel, the guinea fowl, the rosticciana, the inevitable steak
and, at last, the homemade desserts. To get there, turn right after the
Abbey by taking the dirt road, Via Poggio al Vento, continue along
Via di Rignana, and you will arrive in a very short time.

San Donato in Poggio

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND  This small town halfway between Flor-
ence and Siena has played an important role in the centuries-long
conflict that has been opposing the two cities for such a very long
time. In 1218 San Donato passed under the control of Florence,
here the two peace treaties of 1176 and 1265 were signed. In 1260
the Florentine troops who would have been defeated in the bat-
tle of Monteaperti gathered outside the walls. For this reason the
country and the surrounding area were looted by the Ghibellines
in retaliation. With the passing of the years the importance of San
Donato in Poggio increased. The village became a popular rest-
ing place along the royal road that from Florence to Siena led to
Rome, and the large number of travelers who here changed their
coins, assured the country prosperity and wealth. All this fails at
the end of the xiv century when the flow of people progressively
moves towards Tavarnelle and Barberino, beginning the slow and
unrelenting decline of the village.

145
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  The surroundings of Tavarnelle

SAN DONATO IN POGGIO TODAY  This beautiful medieval village, per-

fectly preserved and restored, still almost surrounded entirely by the
mighty walls of the 1200, has many things to show to those who
come to visit it [Figure 42 San Donato, p. 322]. The walled town is still
accessible by the historic city gates, the Porta Fiorentina and Por-
ta Senese, each facing the cities that lie to the north and south of
San Donato. The two gates are connected by Via del Giglio, the road
that runs through the village from the xii century, in addition to the
beautiful stone buildings and bricks you can see what remains of the
ancient tower houses, among these stands the Campionaria tower,
near the Porta Fiorentina, of the xii century. The central point is Pi-
azza Malaspina, in the center of which there is an ancient octagonal
well with a cistern underneath that played a key role during the long
and repeated sieges, representing the only source of water supply in
the country. On the sides are: Palazzo Malaspina, former Ticci pal-
ace, a beautiful Renaissance palace, the Pieve di San Donato [Figure
43 Parish church of San Donato in Poggio, p. 322], the Church of Santa
Maria della Neve, that dates back to the end of the xiv century, with
two beautiful paintings by an unknown artist, a Madonna and Child
from 1413 and a painting of 1700 depicting the Madonna. Up against
stands the Palazzo Pretorio which preserves inside a fresco of the xiv
century depicting the Madonna with Child and Saints. The rest of
the historic center is a succession of narrow and winding streets that
offer beautiful panoramic views of the Tuscan countryside. Those
who decide to stay in San Donato in Poggio will discover the plea-
sure of walking in an old village out of time, without foresware any-
thing because there are all kinds of shops, including a supermarket.
  USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia San Donato in Poggio  Via Senese 1b, tel. 055 8072914.
• Post Office Via Senese 2, tel. 055 8072286.
• Coop  Via Senese.
• Tourist Information Office  Via del Giglio 31, tel. 055 8072338.
Inside Palazzo Malaspina, opening hours: from November 1st to
March 31st, from 4 to 7 pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays

146
 San Donato in Poggio

from 10 am to 1 pm and from 4 to 7 pm, from April 1st to Octo-

ber 30th closed on Mondays, remaining days always open from 10
am to 1 pm and from 4 to 7 pm.
  WHERE TO EAT
• Trattoria La toppa [€€] Via del Giglio 41, tel. 055 8072900,
open for lunch and dinner, closed on Mondays. Beautiful
restaurant with rustic furnishings but well-kept, in the center
of the village. Good food, we recommend the first courses with
homemade pasta.
• Ristorante Palazzo Pretorio  Via Baluardi 2b, tel. 055 8072928,
open until 10.30 pm, does not observe closing days. This restau-
rant is sited in a historic building in the center of San Donato.
Its specialties are seafood and pizzas, its Neapolitan pizza was
awarded by the specialized magazine Gambero Rosso; serves
also typical Tuscan cuisine.
• La Taverna di Ciccino Via del Giglio 19, tel. 055 8072307,
open only for dinner, from 7 pm, closed on Wednesdays. An-
other nice place in the city center, during the summer you can
have dinner outdoors in a characteristic square. Good pizzas,
but desserts and appetizers are also delicious. Sometimes, espe-
cially on weekends, the tavern is crowded.
 WHAT TO SEE IN THE SURROUNDINGS OF SAN DONATO IN POGGIO
• Pieve di San Donato in Poggio  Close to the village is one of
the few churches in the Florentine countryside that preserves
the original Romanesque forms. This has been traced back
through the various restorations that have taken place since
1870, which had the main purpose, in addition to the obvious
conservative maintenance, of bringing the Church back to its
ancient original features. Thanks to its strategic position in
the middle of the dioceses of Florence, Fiesole and Siena en-
joyed a considerable income that contributed to the birth of
San Donato in Poggio and led to the expansion of the existing
building, probably as we said of Lombard origin, on which the

147
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  The surroundings of Tavarnelle

current bell tower was built. The interior of the Pieve is very
fascinating, with three naves and three apses presents the typ-
ical scarcity of ornamental elements of the Romanesque style.
However, there are works of art of great interest such as the
baptismal font in terracotta by Giovanni della Robbia, xvi
century, a triptych attributed to Giovanni Biondo of 1375, oth-
er fourteenth-century panels and on the high altar a painted
Cross attributed to Giotto’s school.
• Santuario di Santa Maria delle Grazie a Pietracupa Admis-
sion to the public is free, to fix a visit contact the tourist office
in Tavarnelle, tel. 055 8077832. The Sanctuary is located near
San Donato, is a Baroque style structure and has a particular
and fascinating history. Everything stems from a tabernacle
from the 1400s, inside the Florentine painter Paolo Schia-
vo created a fresco depicting the Madonna and Child. Being
placed in a place of intensive passage of merchants, great lords
and travelers of all kinds, began to be the object of growing
devotion that culminated, towards the end of 1500, in rou-
mors of miracles and graces of God attributed to that image.
The brothers Naldi, owners of the land, therefore decided to
build a sanctuary, whose first stone was laid in 1596. At the
beginning the sanctuary did not have the current Latin cross
shape, that was the result of successive enlargements with the
addition of three chapels in the presbyteral. The entrance is
under a beautiful arched portico, inside the central chapel is
placed the main altar with the choir behind, and of course the
painting by Paolo Schiavo that is set in the centre of a painting
on canvas by Passignano representing the Saints Peter, Dona-
to, Lawrence and the Archangel Gabriel from around 1600. At
the sides of the main altar there are two smaller chapels with
the tabernacles where are depicted: the Holy Lady appearing to
San Carlo Borromeo and the Crucifixion between San Girola-
mo and San Francesco. The bell tower of the church starts from
the left chapel.

148
 Sambuca Val di Pesa

Sambuca Val di Pesa

This small and old hamlet already existed in the xii century, every-
thing revolved around the ancient Romagliano bridge over which
passed through the ancient Via Regia Romana. The village is locat-
ed on the road between Tavarnelle and Passignano and does not
present particular places of interest. It might deserve a stop to eat
at the Francini butcher shop next to the beautiful Roman Bridge;
you could also walk or ride by bike the last stretch of the Pesa path
to the Rignana bridge. Next to the town a small industrial area has
recently developed.
  USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Chianti Banca  Via Papa Giovanni xxiii, tel. 055 8071758.
• Post Office  Via Papa Giovanni xxiii, tel. 055 8071408.
  WHERE TO EAT
Macelleria Francini [€]  Via Gramsci 10, tel. 055 8071640, open-
ing hours: Sunday, Monday and Wednesday 9 am-3 pm, Tuesday,
Thursday, Friday, Saturday 9-12 am and 3-11 pm. It has no closing
days. In the summer you can eat outdoors, it is a nice place that de-
serves at least one visit. For meat lovers, small and cozy restaurant.
But you can also have a snack with the excellent cold cuts directly
from the butchery. Excellent cooked meats, the tartare with, ricotta
or truffle, the tagliate with truffles, or seasoned with balsamic vine-
gar and traditional, my favorite, made with just plain meat cooked
on the grill. Good and cheap the Florentine steak, fabulous platters
with cold cuts, a note of merit for the rigatino (cold cut made with
pork belly flavoured with pepper and other spices). Get a hold of
yourself and do not be tempted to taste everything, you will raise
the bill and you will not finish the dishes, focus your attention on
what you like. Very special place at moderate prices.

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TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  Where to sleep

Where to sleep

Historic Residences and Luxury Resorts

| high prices |
  CASTELLO DEL NERO HOTEL & SPA  Via Spicciano 7, tel. 055  806470.
Splendid five-star hotel located in an ancient residence, belonging
to the noble Florentine families Del Nero and Torrigiani, perfectly
restored and set in a beautiful landscape. The environment is very
well-kept, here everything is super, the welcome, the restaurant, the
regenerating treatments of the well-equipped wellness center. wi-
fi free, airport shuttle service. Such a level of services inevitably
leads to high prices.
  VILLA FILLINELLE  Strada Fillinelle 5a, tel. 335 6146728. Beautiful
villa in a stunning location, lovely garden and swimming pool, the
property has 4 apartments divided as follows: 1 superior suite that
can accommodate up to 5 people, an exclusive accommodation on
two levels, a superior room and a private loft with two bedrooms,
fireplace and living room. Guests have access to a glamorous room
with fully equipped pantry available for those who want to cook
their own meals, breakfast, lunch or dinner; packed lunches avail-
able on request. Pets allowed, wi-fi free. To get there: from sgc
fi-si, exit at San Donato in Poggio, follow the signs to the village
of Morrocco, before arriving at the village one small road, Via Fell-
inelle, will lead you to the villa.

At Tavarnelle
| average prices |
 HOTEL BORGO DI CORTEFREDA RELAIS Via Roma 191, tel.
055 8073333. This beautiful and carefully restored hamlet offers its
guests beautiful and comfortable double, triple and family rooms.
You will be pampered in a well-equipped wellness center that will

150
 At Tavarnelle

propose you masessays, sauna, turkish bath. There’s an amazing

panoramic swimming pool, an excellent the restaurant and the rich
and varied breakfast is noticeable. wi-fi free, pets allowed. The
structure is in the immediate vicinity of Tavarnelle.
 PODERE FATTORIA VIGLIANO  Strada Magliano 15, tel. 333 5447695.
This beautiful structure was obtained from a former farm, very
close to Tavarnelle; it offers its guests well-kept, well furnished and
equipped apartments with separate entrance that can accommodate
2 to 5 people. Wonderful the panoramic terraces and the swimming
pool. wi-fi free, pets allowed. A few hundred meters away there are
shops of various kinds and a supermarket, in the area in summertime
are held various cultural and food and wine events.
 AGRITURISMO POGGIO ALLE LAME Via delle Lame 8, tel.
055 8077373. Nice agriturismo near Tavarnelle, it has clean,
equipped and comfortable apartments that can accommodate
from 2 to 8 people. Beautiful location and pool, wi-fi free, you can
book both dinner and breakfast that in summertime are served un-
der a beautiful and scenic pergola. To get there, from the sgc Flor-
ence-Siena, exit at Tavarnelle and proceed towards the village, pass
the roundabout where the restaurant is located, continue straight,
and soon you will find the small Via delle Lame on the right. You
will arrive after a very short time.
 FATTORIA QUERCETO  Via Romita 40, tel. 055 8070135. This typ-
ical Tuscan farmhouse, perfectly restored, offers its guests a beau-
tiful swimming pool, a tennis court and delicious fully equipped
apartments with private entrance. Minimum stays in low season
two nights, 7 in high season. Bottle of wine docg free, wi-f free,
pets allowed.

| low prices |
 B&B SOGGIORNO L’ITALIA Via Roma 136, tel. 055 8050549. Nice
B&B in an elegant building in the center of Tavarnelle. It has 5
beautiful rooms elegantly furnished. Tasty, varied and abundant

151
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  Where to sleep

breakfast; the owners Monica and Simone will provide you with
valuable information to visit the Chianti, family atmosphere, wi-
fi free.
 B&B ANTICA PIEVE  Viadella Pieve 1, tel. 055 8076314. In the
street leading to the Parish Church of San Pietro in Bossolo, this
elegant B&B offers its guests double rooms for single use, dou-
ble and triple rooms, a beautiful swimming pool with wonderful
views. Buffet breakfast, good value for money. An excellent restau-
rant, Borgo Antico, is in the same building. Pets allowed, free wi-
fi, the owners of the structure also have apartments in the ancient
village of Petrognano which is on the edge of Barberino Val d’Elsa,
3 km from Tavarnelle.
 PARK HOTEL CHIANTI  Via Michelangeo 5, località Ponte Nuo-
vo, tel. 055 8070106. Near the sgc fi-si at the exit of Tavarnelle,
excellent good value for money, closer to the economic price range
rather than the average; good position and satisfactory level of
the services offered, excellent breakfast buffet and fine restaurant.
Nice pool, cozy and spacious rooms, double, triple and quadruple.
We recommend the interior rooms overlooking the pool, some of
those outward turning near the freeway are noisy, wi-fi free, pets
allowed.
 CAMPEGGIO AGRICAMP ROMITA  Via di Romita 1, tel. 338 2084146.
New structure in a panoramic position, next to the restaurant Aia
delle Oche; beautiful swimming pool, pleasant clearings, well-kept
and with efficient services, the only flaw the lack of shade, the one
that comes from olive trees is the only one you can take advantage
of. If this is not a problem for you this structure is ideal for the stra-
tegic position that allows you to move easily throughout the Chi-
anti area. You can reach taking the sgc fi-si and exit at Tavarnelle;
continuing to the town, at the roundabout turn right towards San
Pancrazio-Montespertoli. The campsite can also be reached from
San Casciano, see itinerary B.

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 At San Donato in Poggio

At San Donato in Poggio

| average prices |
 B&B PALAZZO MALASPINA  Via del Giglio 35, tel. 055 8072946
/339 4114711. Ancient xvi century building superbly restored, over-
looking, in the center of the village, the homonymous and beauti-
ful square. The property has five rooms all well-kept and finely fur-
nished, some have a balcony, others a Jacuzzi, you can give a look on
the internet at www.palazzomalaspina.it/. Guests are given a com-
plimentary bottle of Chianti Classico, while Mrs. Maria, owner of
the B&B, takes care of the excellent breakfast that is served in the
lounge, and in the internal garden during summertime. wi-fi free,
pets allowed on request. This B&B is very popular and according
to customers the second in importance in the province of Florence.
 B&B DEL GIGLIO  Via del Giglio 78, tel. 055 8072894. Anoth-
er superb structure obtained directly in the medieval walls of the
village with a careful and accurate restructuring. It has only two
rooms, that of the newlyweds and that of the arch, elegantly fur-
nished. The excellent and varied breakfast is served in the splendid
panoramic garden, also ideal for relaxing moments, in the sum-
mer months; in winter it is served in the characteristic living room
with a large fireplace. Here guests can cook their meals using the
available fully equipped kitchen, they can also help themselves to
the wide selection of Chianti Classico wines present in the cellar,
informing subsequently the owners. wi-fi free.
 AGRITURISMO MOLINUZZO  Via Monastero 8, tel. 055 8072246.
Beautiful farmhouse of 1600 just two kilometers away from San
Donato in Poggio in the middle of the Tuscan countryside in a
panoramic position, beautiful swimming pool, pleasant and well-
kept apartments. Breakfast on request € 8. wi-fi free, pets allowed.

| low prices |
 LA COMPAGNIA DEL CHIANTI  Via B. Latini 28, tel. 055  8072768/339
8827288. Nice place and nice structure located outside the town of

153
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA  Where to sleep

San Donato in Poggio, barbecue, pizza oven and a beautiful pool

await guests who are welcomed in well-kept and equipped apart-
ments (there is also a dishwasher), all with an independent en-
trance. Pets allowed, wi-fi free, excellent value for money.

154
 Excursions from Tavarnelle

From Tavarnelle you can easily reach many locations, particularly

near are San Gimignano and Certaldo, but also Siena and Florence
are at your fingertips. To move you can use the buses, the train and
of course the car or motorbike using the sgc and the road network.
• To San Gimignano.  By car or motorbike: two possibilities: 1)
reach Poggibonsi through ordinary roads, take Via Cassia, cross
the nearby village of Barberino Val d’Elsa, continue towards
Poggibonsi and follow the signs to San Gimignano; 2) take the
sgc towards Siena, exit at Poggibonsi Nord, at the roundabout
take the second exit, follow the signs and you will arrive at desti-
nation in about 15 minutes. By bus two departures in the morn-
ing, inquire at the tourist information office in Tavarnelle for
costs and schedules.
• To Certaldo.  Same road to San Gimignano, after the round-
about, take the regional road 429 to Certaldo. But in our opin-
ion, the road that crosses Barberino Val d’Elsa is just a few kilo-
meters from Certaldo: past the town follow the road signs for
the village of Petrognano and take the provincial road 50, Via
di San Donnino, a panoramic road that in a short time will lead
you to Certaldo. Another possibility is to take the bus: there are
two rides, 7 and 8.30 am, time about 90 minutes.
• To Volterra.  To be done preferably by car, distance about 47
km time needed about 55 minutes. From Tavarnelle take the
sgc fi-si towards Siena, at San Donato in Poggio, exit at Col-
le Val d’Elsa north and take the regional road 68 following the
signs to Volterra. There are also bus rides, but it takes much
longer, about three hours, who wants to take advantage of this
opportunity should consider staying overnight in Volterra or
surroundings.
• To Siena.  Two options available (we discard the bus because
it has too late arrival times, rides are normally at half day and

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TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

because it takes too much time): car and car + train. If you pref-
ere to drive, that’s very simple, take the sgc fi-si towards Siena
at San Donato in Poggio. To park see where to park in Siena.
Car + train option: go to the Poggibonsi station, leave the car
at the adjacent free parking, take the train to Siena that you will
reach in 15 minutes, check the timetables on the Trenitalia web-
site. To get to the station take the sgc fi-si exit at Poggibonsi
south, pass the first roundabout turning left, shortly after you
will meet a second roundabout, Largo Campidoglio, go straight
on Via Vallepiatta, pass the railway and turn to the second street
on the right, Via Montenero, past the La Posta restaurant turn
right, and you will arrive in Piazza G. Mazzini.
• To Florence.  The bus is the best option to spend a day in Flor-
ence, there are rides in the morning and in the evening, it is
convenient, quick and avoids the problem of parking the car.
For anyone who wants to use the car to the best solution is to
take the sgc fi-si towards Florence and at the end of the in-
terchange proceed towards Firenze Scandicci, then enter Nenni
Avenue and take advantage of the free parking near the Nenni
Torregalli tram stop, if this is complete you can always use the
parking of the adjacent Coop supermarket, which is also free.
Take the tramway (get the ticket first before climbing in, or text
a message to the telephone number 4880105 writing “Ataf ”)
and you will reach Piazza Stazione, in 20 minutes. If you do not
wish to do so, you have two alternatives: park in the two park-
ing lots you find going towards of Florence/Galluzzo after 100
meters on the left there is a parking exchanger, another is on the
opposite side after about 200 meters, leave your car and go to
the stop of the bus, number 37, which is opposite to the park-
ing lot. As a further alternative, past the motorway interchange,
head towards Florence and reach the square of Porta Romana,
cross the gate and immediately turn left at the end of the adja-
cent piazzetta making a U turn before exiting the door: there is
a car park on the right along the old walls, keep in mind that the

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 Excursions from Tavarnelle

parking costs € 2 for an hour (attention the street light indicates

a telematic gate which marks the limited traffic zone, crossing it
with the red light equates to secure fine). Otherwise look out-
side the city walls in Viale Petrarca or neighboring roads, which
is not an easy challenge. An alternative to the car could be rep-
resented by the parking at the Parterre in Via Madonna della
Tosse 9, tel. 055 50302209, here the parking costs € 10 for the
entire day.
• To Lucca and Pisa.  You can use the bus and the train, but you
still have to reach the station in Florence and from there take
the train or the bus at the nearby terminal, feasible operation
but it risks becoming a real tour de force, especially if the times of
the connections should have downtimes. The subject obviously
changes if you have a car because wherever you are you can both
reach these destinations in less than two hours.
If you go to Pisa: go directly to Florence Impruneta following
the regional road 222 up to Greti and then follow the provincial
road 33 towards San Casciano-Florence and then the provincial
road 3. Pass the village of Tavarnuzze and take the A1 to Flor-
ence Impruneta towards Bologna, exit at Scandicci Florence
and take the sgc fi-pi-li towards Pisa, where you will arrive
after about 50 minutes, then take the Pisa Centro exit. Near Pi-
azza dei Miracoli there are numerous fee-paying parking lots, we
will suggest one free, always close to the square, in Via Pietras-
antina, much frequented but worth trying.
If you go to Lucca: take the A1 to Florence Certosa direction
Bologna, when you get to Florence North take the A 11 towards
Pisa North and get to the Lucca Est exit in about 40 minutes.
Near the walls there are fee-paying parking lots and surprisingly
also some free parking areas: we mention three bordering ones,
Via N. Sauro, Via F. Filzi, Via Pubblici Macelli, to get there
flank the walls turning right, the three streets are within walk-
ing distance.

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TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA 

VISIT THE OTHER COUNTRIES OF CHIANTI

We do not mention, for its extreme proximity, Barberino Val d’El-
sa, we will show you how to reach Greve in Chianti and San Cas-
ciano, pleasant excursions that require a day by foe each location
if you have a motorcycle or car. The bus complicates things a bit,
pay attention to the timetables, but the two excursions are equally
feasible.
GREVE IN CHIANTI. The best thing is to head to Badia a Passignano, if
you have not visited it yet, do it, it’s worth it, otherwise go beyond
it. When you cross the sp 118 turn right, after a few kilometers turn
left towards Montefioralle, after having visited the ancient village
continue to the very close Greve and its beautiful square with its
elegant arcades. See Greve from p. 89.
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA. Very easy and quick to reach, even by
bus. Take the scg fi-si towards Florence. Exit at San Casciano
where you will be spoiled for choice, you can visit the administra-
tive center, the new Antinori cellars or Sant’Andrea in Percussina,
the last home of Niccolò Machiavelli, see San Casciano from p. 36.

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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA

On the map

159
160
 Historical outline

Historical outline
The history of Barberino is closely linked to what was once the
powerful city of Semifonte, a nearby town destroyed by the Flo-
rentine troops in 1202. Semifonte in the Middle Ages was so im-
portant as to be considered a very big danger for Florence and Sie-
na. Despite being at war with Siena, Florence decided to break the
delay, probably with the tacit consent of the Sienese, attacking it
to permanently eliminate the threat. After a siege lasted four years
the city was conquered and razed to the ground, only the nearby
village of Petrognano was spared, and the Semifonte stones were
subsequently used to reinforce the walls of Barberino. This being in
a strategic position at the center of a crossroads, which united the
roads that led from north to south and from east to west, greatly
benefited from the destruction of the lumbering neighbor. Always
loyal to the Florentine Republic, soon became an important city
from a commercial point of view, also being on the ancient Via Ro-
mana that connected Florence to Rome, the road that now skirts
the village, but in ancient times crossed it: travelers and pilgrims
had to cross it and even to stop, the number of people in transit
reached such dimensions that it was necessary to build a hospital
able to accommodate them. With the expansion of Barberino be-
gins the slow and inescapable decline of San Donato in Poggio.

Barberino Val d’Elsa today

It is a charming village of just 4000 inhabitants surrounded by beau-
tiful hills immersed in the typical landscape of Chianti, its territory
expands all the way up to the Elsa river, that marks the border with
the town of Poggibonsi. The village is characterized by a narrow and
elongated shape, inside the main road connects the two points of
access to the hamlet, Senese and Fiorentina gates. Still surrounded
by the mighty walls perfectly preserved, the village adheres to the
Village Terraneo project whose purpose is to support the develop-
ment of small towns in southern Europe, and promotes a kind of
alternative tourism that allows you to move without stress, admiring

161
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

and savoring the territory, adding value to its beauty and its treasures,
which exist even if to a lesser extent than the cities of art. This desire
to preserve the territory has clearly emerged when it came to restruc-
ture the ancient village of Linari. Resisting the pressure of those who
wanted to build a luxurious mega resort, a careful restoration has
been done and is still being done, favoring the return to the coun-
try of origin of the former inhabitants of the village. From 2003
on the walls of Barberino waves the orange flag, an environmental
tourism quality brand, conferred by the Touring Club and always
reconfirmed. It is the practical demonstration that even outside the
places where mass tourism can be found, beautiful landscapes and
artistic treasures of great value can be found, and that the two are not
in contrast. In fact, in addition to the beauties existing on site, from
Barberino you can quickly reach places of great charm such as San
Gimignano, Certaldo and Volterra, and the cities of Florence and
Siena with the sgc fi-si.

Useful addresses
  PHARMACIES
• Farmacia Pratelli  Piazza Ugo Capocchini 21, tel. 055 8075793.
• Pediatric Medical Guard (Vico d’Elsa), tel. 055 8073161.
• asl Alta Valdelsa, 055 807514.
  MISERICORDIA  operates in nearby Tavarnelle, tel. 055 8076426.
  CARABINIERI STATION  the competent station is in Tavarnelle, Pi-
azza Matteotti 30, tel. 055 8075674.
  MUNICIPAL POLICE  Via Cassia 31/e, tel. 055 8075674/055 8075302.
  TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE  Piazzetta Spedale dei Pellegrini,
tel. 055 8075319.
  BANKS
Credito Cooperativo di Cambiano  Piazza Brandi 36/Piazza
Capocchini 22/23, tel. 055 8075731

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 Festivals and events

Festivals and events

This list of events that take place in the village or in the surrounding
areas may undergo, although taking place in the indicated month,
changes of date, so those interested in experiencing these holidays
and what they represent should inform themselves at the Tourist In-
formation Office.
4  APRIL  The Land of Toys. Historical center, party for children,
games and re-enactments of fairy tales, food stands dedicated to
the world of children.
4  MAY  Barberino in Fiore. Historic center, the area nursery pro-
ducers exhibit their products. The village, its alleys and its streets
are even more beautiful.
4  JUNE  Medieval Festival. It takes place on Saturdays and Sun-
days, historical re-enactment that recalls the lost city of Semifonte,
in the two days theater, jugglers, figures and flag bearers will roll
back the years to 1200.
4  JUNE  Street Food. Old Town. Gastronomic stands divided by
type, sweet and savory, regional culinary specialties are proposed.
4  JULY  Notte Bianca. Evening market, music entertainment and
attractions, in the end fireworks.
4  AUGUST 24  Patron Saint Day (San Bartolomeo). The village
dresses up with a joyful air, a door-to-door dinner based on wild
boar and mixed roast.
4  OCTOBER  Chocolate Festival. Barberino. Stand design of master
chocolatiers and food and wine stands.
4  OCTOBER  La Tartufiera. Barberino, party organized in two
days, Saturday and Sunday, enogastronomic food and wine stands
truffles themed.
4  DECEMBER  Rally della Fettunta. Barberino, shows and enogas-
tronomic stands of food and wine organized by farms.

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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

4  DECEMBER  Solidarity Market. Stands and food stands of local

associations for solidarity fundraising.
4  DECEMBER  Solidarity Market. Setting up of Christmas themed
stands.
4  DECEMBER  Orange Flags Day. Program with excursions and
guided tours, if interested please visit the website www.barberi-
novaldelsa.net.

Festivals and events in neighboring towns

4  MAY  Empty the Attic. Historic center of Vico D’Elsa. Market

for the re-use organized by citizens residing in the municipality
and in neighboring municipalities.
4  JUNE  La Gastronomarcia. Route in the village of Monsanto.
Cultural-enogastronomic itinerary that involves the farms of the
village.
4  JUNE-AUGUST 20  Festa della musica. Marcialla Estate, Piazza
Brandi, wine and food stands with pizzeria, restaurant and bar.
4  JULY  Festival di Tignano. Historic center of Tignano, takes
place over several days, shows, music and conferences, dinners at
the recreational club Capannina di Tignano. These dinners are
held every day in July even if there no events take place.
4  AUGUST 21-SEPTEMBER 3  Sostieni il Circolo. Marcialla, Piazza
Brandi. An event to support the club and its cultural activities in-
cluding the Trofeo Matteotti and the performances of the Theater.
You can find food stands with pizzeria and restaurant.
4  2ND WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER  Calici d’Arte. Monsanto, Piazza
Cianferoni, tastings and live shows. Food stands with croutons,
sandwiches, pasta dishes.

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 Where to shop

Where to shop
  UNICOOP SUPERMARKET  Via di Novoli 1, open every day and
Sunday morning.
  ALIMENTARI VALFREDA di GHINI MAURIZIO  Piazza Torrigiani 18.
  LA BOTTEGA DI STIACCINO (OR BOTTEGA DELLE NADE)  Via Cassia 57,
tel. 055 8075078, closed on Saturday afternoon. This typical food
shop is next to the municipal offices and has a story that is worth
telling. For most of the Barberinesi, this place is still “the bottega
delle Nade”. In fact, many years ago it was managed by Mrs. Nada,
a well-known person in the village, so much that when her daugh-
ters Marcella and Silvana replaced their mother the inhabitants re-
named the shop calling it the “bottega delle Nade” in homage to
the mother and ignoring the name of the daughters. Today behind
the counter is the young daughter of the Serchi. Here you can en-
joy excellent cold cuts and delicious schiacciate. If you go around
stop here, it’s worth it. (The cousin Alessandro runs an oven, in Via
Francesco da Barberino, in the center of the village we recommend
you trying his products).

Where to eat in Barberino

  OSTERIA CAMPANELLINO [€€]  Piazzetta Spedale dei Pellegrini 36,
tel. 055 8075770, opening hours: from Easter to the end of October,
open for lunch and dinner. From November to the end of March
open on Fridays for dinner, on Saturdays for lunch and dinner and
on Sundays for lunch. Nice place in the center of the hamlet, great
atmosphere, good pici all’aglione, peposo and pappardelle with wild
boar sauce and meat.
  RISTORANTE ARCHIBUGIO  Via di Bustecca 10, tel. 055 8075209,
open every day for lunch and dinner, in winter only for dinner,
except on Sundays, when is also open for lunch. It has recently
moved from the historic center of the village, coming from Ta-
varnelle is at the entrance of the village in the former Bustecca
restaurant. It serves excellent starters and pizzas, and good fish

165
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

dishes. In summer you can eat outside in the beautiful garden,

affordable prices.

Where to eat in the surroundings of Barberino

  IL PAESE DEI CAMPANELLI  Località Petrognano 5, tel. 055 8075318,
open for dinner every day, on Sundays for lunch too. From Octo-
ber to March open for dinner on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
Beautiful restaurant sited in a panoramic setting within a gorgeous
typical Tuscan village. Excellent cuisine, romantic and relaxing at-
mosphere, fantastic outdoor summer dinners, very close to Barbe-
rino. Medium high prices.
  TRATTORIA IL FRANTOIO  Via Giacomo Matteotti 32, Marcialla,
tel. 055 8074244, open for lunch and dinner from March to the
end of October. In the remaining period it opens on Fridays, Sat-
urdays and Sundays. It closes after the Epiphany until March. This
rustic and typical Tuscan restaurant is located in the town of Mar-
cialla, at a short distance from Barberino, tasty food, among the
dishes we recommend, in addition to meat, Florentine tripe, ribol-
lita, ossobuco and pappa al pomodoro. Family atmosphere, accessible
prices.
  RISTORANTE OSTERIA LA SOSTA DI PIO VII  Località Sosta del Papa
(o “pisciata del Papa”) 61, tel. 055 8075932, always open for lunch
and dinner. Housed in the barn of an old farmhouse, this typical
and rustic Tuscan restaurant owes its name to a stop by Pope Pio
vii. It is said that Pio vii returning to Rome from Genoa, in June 2,
1815, was forced to stop by an urgent physiological need; of course
the fact generated buzz and since then the place is known for this.
Especially by older people the place is still called the “pisciata del
Papa”. Excellent cuisine, in the summer you can eat outdoors under
a beautiful pergola surrounded by a marvelous landscape, afford-
able prices. To get there: from Barberino take the Via Cassia, past
the intersection of Ponzano and continue straight: the restaurant is
clearly visible on the road.

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 What to see in Barberino

  OSTERIA L’ANTICA QUERCIA Strada Sant’Appiano 33, tel.

055 8075281, open for dinner, on public holidays and from June
to September also for lunch, closed on Tuesdays. Out of the way
in S. Appiano, a little isolated but nice, quiet and relaxed atmo-
sphere in the Chianti hills. Tasty food, excellent pizza. Budget
prices. To get there: from Barberino take Via di Poneta in the di-
rection of Petrognano, before reaching the town turn left towards
S. Appiano onto the homonymous street, the restaurant is nearby
before the Parish Church and the village.
  LE CANTINACCE  Strada di Codilungo 2, tel. 055 8059301, open
for lunch and dinner on Sundays, the other days open for dinner
only, closed on Mondays. It closes for 15-20 days after the Epiphany,
opens for lunch on request even on days other than those estab-
lished. Restaurant inside a farmhouse, good but not easy to find,
typical Tuscan cuisine, budget prices. To get there: from Barberi-
no, take the Via Cassia towards of San Filippo a Ponzano, past Vil-
la Barbero, turn left into Via della Repubblica, after a few meters
take the Codilungo road and you have arrived.

What to see in Barberino

Barberino is a very beautiful and pleasant place, indulge yourself
with the pleasure of walking through its narrow streets inside the
walls admiring the elegant buildings immersed in a great silence.
Entering from the south gate, Porta Senese, take Via Francesco da
Barberino and look at the beautiful buildings and their stone walls,
according to some scholars hailing from the ruins of ancient Semi-
fonte, and the beautiful wooden gates.
 PALAZZO DEL CARDINALE  Via F. da Barberino. It is on the left
beyond Porta Senese. It has on its façade the coats of arms of the
Barberini family and of Pope Urbano xii.
 PALAZZO PRETORIO  A little further down the street, its façade is
decorated with 35 emblems of important and noble families in the
area, the building dates to the xv century.

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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

 SPEDALE Near the Porta Fiorentina, it is an ancient palace

built in 1365 by Taddeo di Cecco, son of Francesco da Barberino.
According to an epitaph of Taddeo, it was supposed to host only
the Barberinese, in reality, being at the crossroads that led to the
Via Francigena, it hosted travelers and pilgrims to Rome for many
centuries. Inside there are rooms decorated with frescoes from the
1400s, many guests of the structure, including Giotto who arrived
here in 1294 to fresco the works of Beato Davanzato, parish priest
of Santa Lucia in Casciana near Barberino, object of worship from
part of the population. Today the old hospital, after having been
used as a public library, reopens the hospitality in the broadest
sense of the term, will host the tourist information office on the
ground floor, while the first floor will be dedicated to the histori-
cal and cultural excellence of the area, will host exhibitions, events,
conferences and meetings.
 CHIESA DI SAN BARTOLOMMEO  It is the main church of Barberino,
its façade was restored in neo-Gothic style in 1910, and preserves
inside the fragment of a fresco of 1300 depicting the Annunciation
and a xvi panel of Madonna with the son, work of the Master of
Barberino [Figure 45 Church of S. Bartolommeo, p. 32]. From the terrace
in front of the church you can enjoy a magnificent view of the Chi-
anti hills, in your eyes will appear vineyards, olive groves, woods
and, in the distance, the villages of Tignano, San Donato in Poggio
and the village of Panzano.

What to see around Barberino

 SEMIFONTE LA CITTÀ SCOMPARSA  A few kilometers from Barbe-
rino just after the village of Petrognano, this city, mentioned by
Dante in the Divine Comedy, had become cumbersome for its pow-
erful neighbors. The Florentines completely destroyed it in 1202.
To prevent its rebirth they issued a permanent ban of construction
on its soil. The prohibition was partly waived to allow the con-
struction, in 1597, of the chapel of San Michele Arcangelo [Figure

168
 What to see around Barberino

47 S. Arcangelo a Semifonte, p. 310] on a project by Santi di Tito. To do

this, a request was made by Giovan Battista Capponi, owner of the
Renaissance villa of Petrognano, of a special exemption obtained
by the Grand Duke Ferdinando i, who overcame the old prohibi-
tion imposed by the winners. The basilica has an octagonal plan
and reproduces on a 1:8 scale the Brunelleschi dome of the cathe-
dral of Florence, which is why it is called the dome of the Valdelsa.
The interior of the basilica is bare (weddings are celebrated upon
request). In October 2017 a project was launched to bring to light
the buried remains of the ancient city called “Semifonte in Valdel-
sa. Città degli Alberti”, and promoted by the municipalities of
Barberino Val d’Elsa, Certaldo and San Casciano in Val di Pesa, in
collaboration with the Tuscany Region. The research is entrusted
to the University of Florence, the cnr and the Warsaw Academy
of Sciences. Around the Dome you can admire the typical Tuscan
landscapes, vineyards, woods, olive groves, sloping hills, embel-
lished by the background offered in the distance from the Apuan
Alps and the highest peaks of the Apennines, Mount Cimone and
Abetone. Next to the basilica a narrow and scenic road leads to
Certaldo in 10 km.
 PIEVE DI SANT’APPIANO It is among the oldest Romanesque
churches in the Florentine countryside. It probably it dates back
to 990 and is dedicated to the Saint who would have evangelized
the Val d’Elsa. The oldest structures, apse and left aisle are in stones
and pebbles and date back to the eleventh century, here there are
the paintings of San Pietro Martire by Filippo Antonio di Filippel-
li, the martyrdom of San Sebastiano surrounded by the confreres of
the company of Bernardo Rosselli and Filippelli dated 1484, the
Saint Anthony Abbot and The Evangelist Matthew by Filippelli, all
artists coming from the Ghirlandaio workshop. The antiquarium
is a small archaeological museum displaying several archaeological
findings from the area.
 TIGNANO  Tiny fortified village in front of Barberino. Worth
a visit to admire the beautiful views, the magnificent Church of

169
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

San Romolo which has inside a tabernacle in glazed terracotta by

Giovanni della Robbia.
 LINARI  “The forgotten country that was reborn” [Figure 48 Li-
nari, p. 325].
This ancient fortified village dates back to 1071, the
first owners were the Cadolingi, an ancient Lombard family who
later was succeeded by the Gherardini, the Capponi and Guidi
families during the Renaissance period. In 1270 it was also a free
municipality. This small agglomeration in an enchanting position
was inhabited until about fifty years ago when the approximately
forty surviving families decided, thanks to the economic boom of
the time, to seize work opportunities different from those given
by the countryside and the land moving to neighboring countries
and in particular in Poggibonsi. Today after a long time a real
turnaround is taking place, many people, among these different
former inhabitants, have explicitly asked to come back; the place
is lovely, obviously presents unequivocal signs of abandonment
but have already begun the works of recovery and redevelopment
to make the place return to new life. The project for the construc-
tion of an exclusive hotel has been shelved. The municipality of
Barberino has prepared a project for the restoration of the vil-
lage, the castle, the park and the old houses that will once again
become residential units destined to give back a soul to the aban-
doned village, in this regard a dairy bar is already active and near-
by there are elegant tourist facilities. Even as it is today, the place
is worth a visit, you can already glimpse what it was and despite
the works what could be again [Figure 49 Countryside surrounding
Barberino, p. 326].

 VICO D’ELSA AND IL TABERNACOLO DELLA MADONNA  Vico d’Elsa

is an urban conglomeration of medieval origin, set on a hill in a
panoramic position with elegant buildings. It was an important
city in the Middle Ages due to its proximity to the Via Franci-
gena. Allied with Semifonte, together with San Gimignano and
Colle Val d’Elsa in the war against Florence. Today it is a small
and pleasant village that preserves the original medieval nucleus.

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 Where to eat in Vico D’Elsa

This village presents a piece of unusual and little known Valdelsa,

on the east gate over the remains of an ancient castle was built in
the first half of 1500 a tabernacle depicting the Virgin Mary (the
author is unknown but the painting is very beautiful also if worn
out by time), with the Saints Jacopo and Giuliano. This taberna-
cle has watched over for more than five centuries on travelers and
pilgrims going to Rome and has been the object of devotion and
worship by the faithfuls and it is also today. Deteriorated by time
has been restored to its former glory thanks to the generosity of
the inhabitants of the village who have collected the funds for a
thorough and rigorous restoration. If you are heading to Certaldo
or San Gimignano stop to admire it.

Where to eat in Vico D’Elsa

  RISTORANTE BIRD ALLA PERGOLA  Via Guidacci 35, tel. 055  8073017,
closed on Wednesdays, all the other days open for dinner, open for
lunch on request. Delightful panoramic restaurant, cozy and relax-
ing in the center of the hamlet, excellent service and good food, use
zero km products, at budget prices. Worth a visit.

Go for castles and cellars

In the municipality of Barberino, one of the most beautiful in Chi-
anti, there are two beautiful castles: Panaretta and Monsanto, set
in a beautiful landscape with ancient cellars, a short distance from
each other. Worth a visit for the beauty of the cellars and for the
magnificent views. Not to be missed, the towers of San Gimignano
are clearly visible from Monsanto.
  CASTELLO DELLA PANARETTA Via della Panaretta 35, tel.
055 8059003. Set in the middle of the Chianti hills, the castle was
built in the xiv century after the destruction of the Cepparello
fortress following the battle of Montaperti in 1260. Completely re-
stored during the Renaissance it is today a large winery. The castle

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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

is private and not open to visits, you can visit only the beautiful
ancient cellars where you can taste the wines of the castle produc-
tion coupled with local products. For the visits are accepted groups
already established, up to 16 people, or individual visits of 2 people.
For information and reservations call and ask for Barbara.
  CASTELLO DI MONSANTO  Via di Monsanto 8, tel. 055 8059000,
It dates from the mid-1700s. Purchased in 1961 by Aldo Bianchi
and donated to his son for his wedding with Giuliana is now run by
their daughter Laura who transformed the castle into a prestigious
company that produces great wines and an excellent olive oil. The
castle can be visited, do not miss the beautiful wineries, certainly
among the most beautiful in Chianti, and the underground tun-
nel that joins the old cellar with the new. At Castello di Monsanto
it is possible to visit its appealing cellars upon booking. The tour
includes an overview of the main Tuscan Designation of Origin
wines, the cultivation techniques in the vineyards, the explanation
of the various production phases, from the vinification to the age-
ing, concluding with a tasting of the wines accompanied by typ-
ical local products – the tour lasts about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
To book the visits that takes place from Monday to Friday in two
shifts, one in the morning, the other in the afternoon, call or con-
sult the site www.castellodimonsanto.it.

Where to stay in Barberino and surroundings

 VILLA IL SANTO [€€€] Via Petrognano 27, tel. 055 8074125.
Amazing villa in the nearby village of Petrognano in the middle
of the typical Chianti countryside. The villa is rented en bloc for
weeks, has 8 rooms with 16 beds and 10 bathrooms. It is divided in-
to two parts: the old tower with a perfect conservative restoration
that highlights the typical Tuscan style and a perfectly restored
barn that has a modern interior inside. Externally there is a beauti-
ful swimming pool with a view. The price per week is undoubtedly
high, but if you can reach the number of sixteen people the price

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 Where to stay in Barberino and surroundings

can be affordable, especially if compared to the type of accommo-

dation. If the number is lower, the price is unchanged and the cost
per capita is obviously higher.
 BORGHETTO DI SAN FILIPPO [€€]  Strada delle Ginestre 2, tel.
338 6029597. Typical Tuscan rural village 3 km far from Barberino
immersed in the stunning surrounding countryside. Beautiful gar-
den and beautiful outdoor pool, cozy and clean rooms furnished
in pure Tuscan style await guests. Excellent breakfast with sweet
and savory products, nice place, good value for money. wi-fi free,
pets allowed.
 AGRITURISMO FATTORIA GIANNOZZI  Località la Ceppa di Mar-
cialla, tel. 055 8076602/335428861. Beautiful fifteenth-century vil-
la in the village of Marcialla has four double bedrooms and two
suites. Beautiful location overlooking the charming hills of Valdel-
sa, the property has double rooms, even for single use, 2 suites and
apartments that can accommodate eight people. Splendid and pan-
oramic the swimming pool, you can also visit the old cellar and
the ancient oil mill. You can of course buy wine, oil and brandy
produced on the farm, wi-fi free, pets allowed on request.
 AGRITURISMO QUERCIA AL POGGIO  Strada della Quercia al Pog-
gio 4, tel. 055 8075278. Located on top of a panoramic hill, this
beautiful stone villa dating back to the 18th century offers its guests
eight perfectly restored apartments in the typical rustic Tuscan
style. The agriturismo has two swimming pools and is surrounded
by beautiful vineyards and olive groves. To arrive: take the sgc fi-
si, exit at Poggibonsi north, at the roundabout follow the signs to
Barberino Val d’Elsa, after 50 meters turn in the direction of Mon-
santo, pass the village and the sign indicating the end of the village,
after 100 meters take the dirt road, there is also indication of the
farm, and you will arrive in a very short time.
 AGRITURISMO CASTELLO DELLA PANARETTA  Strada della Panaret-
ta 19, tel. 333 8290390. Near the castle of the same name, this beau-
tiful agriturismo welcomes its guests in a spectacular panoramic

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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA 

setting. Beautiful apartments, equipped with every comfort, on

request, an excellent breakfast is served at the price of € 6; inside
they also organize cooking and butchery classes (the art of working
pork) in the months of November and December. Dinners are or-
ganized on request at a cost of € 30, wines not included. To arrive:
coming from Siena, take the sgc fi-si, exit at Poggibonsi north,
at the roundabout follow the signs for Barberino Val d’Elsa, after
50 meters turn in the direction of Monsanto, pass the village and
continue in the direction of the castle of Paneretta, you will arrive
in a few minutes. Coming from Florence, take the highway, exit at
San Donato in Poggio, pass the village and the inn of Pietracupa
and Casa Emma, after about 1.5 km turn left to Monsanto. You will
arrive at the farm in a few minutes.
 B&B LE QUERCIOLE Strada della Quercia al Poggio 1, tel. 348
7693329. In a beautiful house of the xvii century with a beau-
tiful swimming pool surrounded by vineyards and olive groves
this beautiful B&B offers beautiful finely renovated rooms, some
overlook the pool, beautiful terrace and the lounge for relaxation
and reading. Excellent breakfast buffet with sweet products, local
meats and cheeses, wi-fi free, pets allowed. Coming from Flor-
ence, take the highway, exit at San Donato in Poggio, pass the
village and the inn of Pietracupa and Casa Emma, after about 1.5
km turn on the left to Monsanto, continue for about 2.5 km and
you will find directions to the B&B that you will reach after 500
meters.
 CASE VACANZE IN CAMPAGNA LINEARIS  Strada di Linari 1/3 Lo-
calità Linari, tel. 055 8078856/339 5657393. Very close to the village
of Linari a few kilometers from Barberino and Poggibonsi and a
20-minute drive from San Gimignano, this ancient farmhouse dat-
ing back to the xvii century perfectly restored has of 6 indepen-
dent apartments, fully equipped. Guests have access to a beautiful
swimming pool, outdoor barbecue and children’s playground, pets
allowed wi-fi free.

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 Excursions from Barberino

 AGRITURISMO BORGO DI PONETA Strada Poneta 64, tel.

340 3073429. Just 5 km from Barberino, splendid accommoda-
tion, you will stay in historic farmhouses where they have been
created nice apartments perfectly equipped. In summer the beau-
tiful swimming pool awaits you for your relaxation, beautiful
views of the surrounding hills and San Gimignano. The beautiful
cellars and the small rural museum within the structure are worth
a visit. Obviously excellent wines and oil produced on site. wi-fi
free, pets allowed.
 FATTORIA DI SANT’APPIANO  Via S. Appiano 11, tel. 055 8075441.
Ancient farm belonging to noble Florentine families, including
Gherardini and Pitti. Deep in the Chianti area in an excellent posi-
tion, it offers spectacular views of the landscape, from some apart-
ments you can admire San Gimignano. Nearby natural paths ideal
for horse riding and cycling, the hotel offers impeccable apart-
ments for up to 5 people. The panoramic terrace and the swimming
pool are amazing, the structure also has a cellar entirely dug into
the tuff where you can taste and buy the farm products, wine, oil,
grappa, vinegar. wi-fi available.

Excursions from Barberino

Being close to Tavarnelle to reach the various locations follow the
same indications [Excursions from Tavarnelle, p. 155].

175
 THE “GREAT BEAUTIES” AROUND THE CHIANTI
Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo,
Volterra, Monteriggioni

On the map

176
 Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo, Volterra, Monteriggioni

As already mentioned, Chianti is at the center of a unique area,

combining its beauty with its proximity to places of great inter-
est famous in the world and for being a privileged destinations
of international tourism. These places can be reached within 90
minutes by car. Of course it depends on where we are, but the
variations are minimal, those in Tavarnelle or Barberino will find
it more convenient to visit San Gimignano and Certaldo which
are very close but also Siena and Volterra. Who is in San Casciano
will be facilitated in the visit of Florence, Lucca and Pisa, but will
not be penalized, traveling the sgc to visit Siena and other places.
Whoever is in Greve or Panzano will be equidistant from Siena
and Florence, has the disadvantage of being a little further away
from the fast expressways, but will be able to travel along beautiful
roads from the point of view of the landscape with just a few more
minutes of driving. We will provide you with all the possible news,
even if schematically, to help you choose your destination, to grasp
all the particular aspects that most interest you.
WHEN VISITING THE CITIES OF ART Perhaps the best time is from March
to the end of May, avoid if you can July and August, temperatures
can be torrid, overcrowding sure. Consider, if you have the chance,
a holiday in October, November, January and February, you will
find lower prices. In addition, the reduced presence of tourists will
make you live a much more relaxed holiday.

177
 FLORENCE

On the map

178
179
FLORENCE  

Historical outline

Florence was founded as a Roman colony, Florentia, “the place of

flowers”, by Julius Caesar in 59 bc. A colony was a defensive set-
tlement of Roman citizens, often made up of discharged soldiers,
which was planted on a strategically important route, the Via Cas-
sia, one of the roads which radiated northwards from Rome. The
ex-soldiers received plots of land on the banks of the River Arno,
thanks to the agrarian law issued by Julius Caesar. Probably this
place had previously been an Etruscan “emporium” and – even be-
fore – a “Villanovan” settlement. It became dominant under the
emperor Adrian, thanks to the passage of the New Cassia road. It
then lost its importance with the fall of the Roman Empire and
furthermore a new road of great import, the Via Francigena, passed
through Lucca without crossing Florence.
The inevitable decline starts in 1500, when the Medici dynasty
is banished by popular revolts. Giuliano first attempts – followed
by Lorenzo – to return to Florence, but their mission won’t be suc-
cessful, since they end up to being driven out themselves. It will be
up to Cosimo i, son of Giovanni dalle Bande Nere, to begin a new
Medici dynasty which will govern uninterruptedly the forthcom-
ing Grand Duchy of Tuscany until 1737, when the Duchy itself will
be replaced by the Austrian House of Lorraine, which will govern
with great wisdom, introducing some important reforms (i.e.: the
sharecropping in agriculture, the abolition of the death penalty
that constitutes a worldwide premiere), ordering and creating the
beautiful “Stazione Leopolda”. Florence was – for a brief period
(1864-1870) – capital of Italy, too.
Today the city still preserves, despite some questionable choic-
es linked to that period, its charm, even if it underwent the heavy
devastation of the Second World War, with the destruction of all
bridges (except the Ponte Vecchio) and many central buildings.
The reaction of the city to the disastrous flood of 1966 that threat-
ened to destroy a good part of his artistic citizen heritage was re-

180
 Florence today

markable. Only the extraordinary commitment of the Florentines

and the international solidarity have allowed almost all of such a
treasure to reach our days.

Florence today
The capital of Tuscany lies on the banks of the Arno, in the mid-
dle of a harmonious setting of hills dotted with beautiful villas and
pretty villages. It enjoys universal fame for the extraordinary qual-
ity of its works of art, the beauty of its monuments, the richness of
its galleries that host great masterpieces within them, and its aristo-
cratic elegance. This is why Florence is one of the main destinations
of international tourism, it is almost always very crowded, often in-
vaded by a chaotic tourism, except for short periods in November
and immediately after the Christmas holidays, but it is beautiful.
Unfortunately, the growing trend to “hit and run” tourism is not
the most suitable to visit a city like Florence, which deserves at least
4-5 days for a minimum indephts analysis.
Luckily, the monuments of great interest are so close to each
other, that an accurate choice of places to visit and a careful man-
agement of available time, can allow you to get an idea of the city
even with little time available. The tourist area is divided into two
parts, the historic center and the Oltrarno, for the Florentines “di
qua e di là d’Arno”. In the historic center you can admire, inter
alia, the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio, San-
ta Croce, the Uffizi, the Medici Chapels, the Accademia Gallery
and the elegant Via Tornabuoni, a street where you can admire
the most famous fashion brands shops. In Oltrarno or San Fredi-
ano, one of the city’s popular districts together with Santa Croce,
you can visit Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens, the Basilicas of
Santo Spirito and Santa Maria del Carmine, Piazzale Michelan-
gelo and the church of San Miniato a Monte. Florence was the
center of the most important contributes to the Italian civiliza-
tion, as a cradle and magisterium of literature and language (just
think about Dante Alighieri); in the city there is also the Acca-

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FLORENCE  

demia della Crusca, an association, based in the Medici villa of

Castello near Florence, that gathers scholars and experts of italian
language, grammar and etymology. In more recent times the city
had a prominent role in the great movements of Humanism and
the Renaissance. Today Florence is an important cultural center,
and in addition to tourism (however, a very important item of
financial sector) can boast a qualified trade in the antiques sector
and a refined and appreciated craft that still has a strong point
in leather processing. In the industrial sector the lion’s share is
carried out by fashion with the presence in the territory of some
big and famous brands.

Useful addresses
  PHARMACIES
• Farmacia internazionale Piazza della Repubblica, tel. 055
210713.
• Farmacia insegna del Moro  Piazza San Giovanni, tel. 055 211343.
• Farmacia Mugnaini  Piazza Piattellina, tel. 055 2112 91.
  CARABINIERI STATIONS
• Zona S. Ambrogio/Quartiere Santa Croce  Via dei Pilastri 54,
tel. 055 2061.
• Oltrarno  Piazza Pitti 1, tel. 055 284453.
• Zona Signoria  Via de Castellani, tel. 055 288904.
• Borgo Ognissanti  Borgo Ognissanti 48, tel. 055 27661.
  HOSPITALS
• Ospedale di Santa Maria Nuova  Piazza Santa Maria Nuova,
tel. 055 69381. In the city center very close to the Duomo.
• Ospedale di Careggi  Viale Morgagni, tel. 055 794111. It is the
largest city hospital center. It is located in the Firenze Rifredi
neighborhood.
  MUNICIPAL POLICE
• Zona Signoria/Ponte Vecchio  Via delle Terme 2, tel. 055 2616057.

182
 Celebrations and anniversaries not to be missed

Celebrations and anniversaries not to be missed

4  EASTER SUNDAY  Scoppio del Carro, the “Bursting of the Cart”,
Piazza del Duomo. Possibility to buy tickets for the bleachers.
Every year on Easter Sunday, Florence celebrates the religious fes-
tivity in a very special way. This is the most famous traditional
religious festival in Florence.
4  JUNE 24  S. Giovanni festa del Santo Patrono. Final of the Calcio
in Costume in Piazza Santa Croce and at 10.00 pm fireworks at Pi-
azzale Michelangelo clearly visible from the Lungarni and the sur-
rounding hills.
4  AUGUST 10  San Lorenzo Feast, Watermelon (cocomero or an-
guria) free for everyone at the Basilica of San Lorenzo.
4  SEPTEMBER 7  Rificolona Festival. Piazza S.S. Annunziata. It’s
the feast of the children, who enjoy swinging their multicolored
paper lanterns lit by candles through the air.

Getting around in Florence

Florence is a city with considerable traffic; although in the histor-
ic center and in Oltrarno the ztl, limited traffic zone is in force,
parking is not easy, and furthermore is quite expensive. Better to use
public transportation or the two existing tramline lines if you are in
the Scandicci area, Isolotto or Rifredi. ataf, and its sister company
Linea, are the city public bus transport companies and cover the
whole city with their routes; the buses are orange or dark purple
and white. One ticket provides unlimited travel on any bus for 90
mins. There are numerous types of travel pass: valid for 24hrs, three
or seven days, or for a calendar month. The Carta Agile, an elec-
tronic ticket, is the cheapest solution. Holders of the Firenze Card
can also purchase free bus transport for 72hrs. For a small extra
charge you can also usually purchase a ticket from the driver as soon
as you board the bus (but often these are not available on board, so
it is always best to purchase one beforehand). You have to stamp

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FLORENCE  

your ticket (or validate the Carta Agile) at automatic machines as

soon as you get on the bus: tickets are checked frequently and fines
are very heavy.
For information on routes and timetables visit the website www.
ataf.net; further information can be requested at the various infor-
mation points, one is sited in Piazza Stazione under the platform
roofs aside Piazza Adua, or at the above mentioned infopoints: they
will supply you all the necessary informations and a map of the city
bus routes and timetables. If you are staying in the historic center
there are no problems, the places of greatest tourist interest are all
nearby, in some cases very close and easily accessible going on foot.
The most distant places are Piazzale Michelangelo, San Miniato al
Monte and Forte di Belvedere. However, even these places can be
reached from the Ponte Vecchio with a thirty minutes walk. If you
do not want to walk or take the bus there is a third chance, the taxi,
not cheap but very comfortable.

What to see
There are many things to see and all close to each other. Even out-
side the most popular circuits, there is such a concentration of art-
works of art that would take many days for a thorough visit. Just
think at the following example: on the hills of Settignano, near
Florence, in a tiny church called Vannella oratory there is a Madon-
na with Child by Botticelli that nobody sees and nearby a beautiful
painting by Andrea del Sarto depicting the Last Supper, normally
ignored by visitors. That’s why we also propose an itinerary that
will allow you to visit places of absolute beauty, with artworks by
the Florentine Renaissance masters, ignored or almost ignored,
with some exceptions, by mass tourism. Obviously the time avail-
able is not infinite, but “mass tourism”, that focuses on the Duo-
mo, Piazza Signoria, the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi
Gallery, Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens is in antithesis with
the city and its history; not only allows you to see almost nothing,
but, even worse, does not let you fully tune into a place that dis-

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 What to see

closes glimpses and memorable corners and does not enable you to
experience the atmosphere still present in the city.
  VISITING THE MUSEUMS  Considering the huge number of tour-
ists, especially if they have a little time available to visit Florence, it
is more advisable to book tickets online, thus avoiding queues and
wasting time. We will provide you with a list of useful addresses for
this purpose (but there are many others). www.florence-museum.
com/tickets lets you book tickets for: Cappelle Medicee, Museums
of San Marco and Bargello, Galleria degli Uffizi and Accademia,
Giardino di Boboli. To visit the Duomo, Brunelleschi’s Dome,
Giotto’s Bell Tower and the Baptistery we suggest two email ad-
dresses, www.fondoambiente.it, referring to Fai (Fondo Ambiente
Italiano):it guarantees large discounts, up to 80%, to its members.
Many museums offer discounts, not all in the same way: for in-
stance, for children up to 18 years, for eu citizens to 18/25 years,
some museums offer family discounts, otherwise all State-owned
museums offer free entry on the first Sunday of each month. www.
faiperme.fondambiente.it; www.ilgrandemusodelduomo.it.
  FLORENTINE MUSEUM SYSTEM  The museums in Florence are di-
vided into various typologies.
• State-owned Museums Uffizi, Corridoio Vasariano, Palazzo
Pitti, Giardino di Boboli and annexed galleries, Galleria dell’Ac-
cademia, Musei di San Marco and del Bargello, Orsanmichele,
Opificio delle pietre dure.
• Municipal Museums Palazzo Vecchio, Cappella Brancacci,
Musei Bardini and di Santa Maria Novella.
• Museums belongind to Religious Institution  Museo di Santa
Croce and Cappella dei Pazzi, Museo Opera del Duomo, Catte-
drale di Santa Maria del Fiore, Campanile di Giotto, Cupola del
Brunelleschi, Battistero and Museo del Bigallo.
  TOURIST INFORMATION The main infopoints of the center of
Florence are in:
• Piazza Stazione 4, tel. 055 212245.

185
FLORENCE  

• Via Cavour 1 r, tel. 055 290832 very close to Piazza Duomo.

• Piazza San Giovanni 1, Palazzo del Bigallo, tel. 055 288496.
• For informations you can also contact the site promozione.tur-
[email protected]. At the tourist offices you can buy the Flor-
ence Card, it allows the visit of 72 monuments in 72 hours and
costs 72 €.
 PIAZZA DEL DUOMO  Here are three jewels, the Basilica of Santa
Maria del Fiore (the Duomo) with its magnificent coloured marble
exterior, the compact little octagonal Baptistery in the adjoining Piaz-
za San Giovanni and Giotto’s delicately patterned bell tower. Recent-
ly the square has been pedestrianized and this permits the numerous
visitors to admire such beauties in absolute tranquility.
 BATTISTERO  “The beautiful San Giovanni”, as Dante called it, is
an octagonal building on a centralised plan derived from Byzantine
models, with an exceptionally large dome. Its origins are one of the
most discussed themes of the whole history of Florentine art. Cer-
tainly his consecration took place in the xi century attended by Pope
Niccolò ii on November 6th, 1059. Externally clad in white Carrara
marble and green from Prato, it shows aclassical geometric decora-
tion. The Baptistery is famous for its three sets of gilded bronze
doors, one at each of its three entrances. One was made by An-
drea Pisano and two by Lorenzo Ghiberti, to whom we owe also
the splendid “door of Paradise”. Internally it is characterized by a
splendid mosaic that covers the pavement, the entire dome and the
vault of the tribune. Although smaller and less famous than the ad-
jacent neighbor, the cathedral, it is, from a historical point of view,
very important. In fact, the building clearly shows the continuity of
classicism that was the basis of Florentine art.
Lo Scoppio del carro “Bursting of the Cart”. This festival has an-
cient origins, it takes place on Easter morning in Piazza del Duo-
mo, between the Duomo and the Baptistery; it dates back to 1097
at the time of the first crusade: 2500 Florentines participated and
among them the captain Pazzino de’ Pazzi first crusader who hoist-

186
 What to see

ed the flag on the walls of Jerusalem receiving from Godfrey of

Bouillon three stone fragments of the Holy Sepulcher, preserved in
the beautiful church of the S.S. Apostles in Piazza del Limbo, near
Ponte Vecchio. These were used to light the Holy Fire that was dis-
tributed to the clergy and to the Florentine families during Easter.
The wagon that is still the undisputed protagonist of the festival,
was built by the Pazzi family and was used to supply the blessed
fire to the Florentines. The “brindellone”, the name given by the
Florentines to the wagon, leaves at 8.15 from Porta al Prato pulled
by two oxen of Chianina breed, crosses the streets of the city in a
procession joining in Piazza della Repubblica with the historical
procession, the banner of the city and the flag bearers of the Uffizi.
Then arrives at the Cathedral: here the Archbishop from the main
altar of the basilica lights a rocket shaped like a dove (Colombina
as it is called in the city that represents the Holy Spirit); this must
reach the cart and set it on fire, giving way to a pyrotechnic show,
and then return to the main altar. If all this takes place regularly
it will be a good omen for the harvest of the fields. Being a party
very heartfelt it sees the presence of numerous Florentines who mix
with the inevitable tourists.
 SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE OR THE DUOMO  It is the main Floren-
tine church recognized symbol of the city, the third largest in
the world [Figure 50 Duomo, p. 326]. Work started by order of he
Signoria on the south side, where the superb decorative pattern,
made from red, white and green marble from quarries in Tuscany,
can be seen to full advantage. It will be finished in 1436, the proj-
ect was by Arnolfo di Cambio. It is not known precisely how far
things had progressed by the time of Arnolfo’s death in the first
decade of the 14th century. In 1331, the guild of wool merchants
assumed responsibility for the project and Giotto was appointed
capomaestro (director of works) and then Giovanni di Lapo Ghi-
ni. Things moved slowly until 1355, when Francesco Talenti took
charge, and it seems that he followed Arnolfo’s original design
of a domed basilica with three polygonal apses at the east end.

187
FLORENCE  

During the 14th century numerous other architects, including

Orcagna, joined Talenti, and the octagonal drum was practical-
ly completed by 1417. The basilica, that was consecrated by Pope
Eugenio iv in 1436, has three naves welded by a huge roundabout
that supports the large dome dominated by a large golden sphere
by Verrocchio. Inside numerous works by famous artists, we point
out the 44 glass windows of the glass art that depict the Saints of
the old and new Testament, made by Donatello, Lorenzo Ghiberti,
Niccolò da Tolentino and Giovanni Acuto, and the gigantic fresco,
about 3600 sqm, of the dome representing the universal judgment
made by Giorgio Vasari and finished by his pupil Federico Zuccari
in 1579. The present neo-Gothic front dates from 1887, designed by
Emilio de Fabris from 1871 to 1884. Inside the cathedral a narrow
and tiring walkway, 463 steps, leads to the top of the dome, is not
recommended for claustrophobics and those who suffer from ver-
tigo because it is narrow and tall, you can almost touch the fresco
of Vasari, but it seems to be suspended in a vacuum. Continuing we
arrive outside, here circling around, protected by a balustrade, you
can admire a breathtaking view of the city.
Admission to the Cathedral is free, but if you want to climb to
the top of the dome or Giotto’s bell tower, it’s fee-paying. Do not
miss the Opera del Duomo museum and above all the 1:1 scale
reproduction of the original Arnolfiana façade of the Duomo.
With the card you can get (Fondo Ambiente Italia) 80% dis-
count. For information and ticket reservations tel. 055 2302885 or
consult the website [email protected]. Cost: € 15 valid
for the Cupola, Giotto Bell Tower, Baptistery and Museum of the
Cathedral, valid for 48 hours from the first entry.
 CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO  Next to the dome, its construction was
begun in 1334 by Giotto who worked there until his death in 1337.
The work was then carried out by Andrea Pisano and later by Fran-
cesco Talenti. Rich in sculptural decorations: among these 16 life-
sized statues of Donatello, Andrea Pisano, Luca della Robbia. In the
façade facing the baptistery the creation of man and woman is rep-

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 What to see

resented, in the upper register the theological and cardinal virtues,

the liberal arts and the seven sacraments. An internal staircase leads
to the top of the bell tower, from here you can enjoy a beautiful pan-
oramic view of the city, although that of the dome is undoubtedly
more beautiful, this can also be faced by those suffering from vertigo.
 BASILICA DI SAN LORENZO  Very close to Piazza del Duomo, it
was built by Brunelleschi in 1419 on the remains of the oldest pa-
leochristian church, dating back to 383 ad. The external façade still
raw had to be covered by Michelangelo, but despite the project had
been completed (it is visible at the Buonarroti museum via Ghibel-
lina 70 in the district of S. Croce), the works have never started.
Nevertheless, the Church is of an amazing beauty, has a Latin cross
interior with numerous works of art, among these stand out the
two bronze pulpits, one in front of the other, by Donatello and a
fresco by Bronzino depicting the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo. In-
side the Old Sacristy there are the eight plumes of Donatello de-
picting the evangelists and St. John.
 MEDICEE CHAPELS  Include the crypt, the Chapel of Princes and
the new Sacristy. From the apse of the Basilica, you enter the old sac-
risty. The new sacristy, the work of Michelangelo before his transfer to
Rome, was conceived and realized by two popes, both of the Medici
family. Leone x, son of Lorenzo il Magnifico, who thought a monu-
ment to host the graves of his father and uncles Giuliano, and Lorenzo
duke of Urbino. The work began in 1520 by the will of Clemente vii.
As already mentioned, the new Sacristy is the work of Michelangelo,
who will work there from 1520 to 1524. He will complete only the
statues of the dukes Lorenzo and Giuliano and the tombs of the two
magnificent, the others will be finished by Giovanni da Montorsoli
and Baccio da Montelupo disciple of Buonarroti. The works repre-
sent the Allegories of Time, Sunset and the Dawn, the Night, perhaps
one of the most beautiful works of Michelangelo, the day and the
Madonna group accompanied by the statues of Saints Cosmas and
Damian placed to seal the tomb of the Magnificent.

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 THE CHAPEL OF THE PRINCES  Made by Matteo Nigetti, designed by

Don Giovanni de’ Medici. This mausoleum is octagonal in shape, its
large dome is a rare example of Baroque style at Florence, and it hous-
es the tombs (Cenotaphs) of the Grand Dukes, is covered with mar-
ble and hard stones, the sarcophagi are completed by bronze statues
placed in the niches at the top. Then there are the inlays in commes-
so fiorentino, ancient decorative roman technique obtained by hard
stones and marbles, developed by the Medici family that still exists at
the Opificio delle pietre dure. The dome had to be covered with lapis
lazuli but it was not finished for the disappearance of the Medici, it
was frescoed with scenes of the Old and New Testament by Pietro
Benvenuti in 1828.
 ORSANMICHELE  This unique Gothic building was built around
750 [Figure 51 Orsanmichele, p. 327]. There was an oratory and a
church dedicated to the Archangel Michael, on the site of an orato-
ry called San Michele ad Hortum (meaning “orchard”). Everything
was surrounded by orchards, hence the name of Orsanmichele. The
loggia which was subsequently erected as a grain market (perhaps
by Arnolfo di Cambio) around 1290. This building burnt down in
1304. The present Orsanmichele (1337), also built as a market. Or-
sanmichele is on the famous Via dei Calzaiuoli a few meters away
from the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio and in front of the Palazzo
dell’Arte della Lana. Outside the church is surrounded by 14 taber-
nacles, these were decorated between 1400 and 1500 by the main
Florentine arts and host as many statues (above them there are the
coats of arms of the Florentine arts) dedicated to the Patron Saint
of every corporation. The statues, authentic works of art, have been
carved by the great Renaissance, Brunelleschi, Donatello, Ghiberti
and Verrocchio, the ones we see today are copies, the originals are
inside the homonymous museum that can be visited free of charge.
Opening Hours: the Church can be visited, for free, every day
10 am-5 pm. Museum, free of charge, Mondays and Saturdays 10
am-5 pm.

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  MUSEO CASA DI DANTE  Via Santa Margherita 2. If you are in the

vicinity of the Duomo and walk along Via del Proconsolo or Via dei
Calzaiuoli, turn into Via Dante Alighieri, or as a second option, in
Via dei Tavolini: you will arrive in three minutes in the heart of me-
dieval Florence. Here in 1200 between the Church of San Martino
and Piazza de Donati stood the native house of Dante, in the shadow
of the Badia Fiorentina. The young poet grew in the parish of San
Martino, the nearby Church of Santa Margherita dei Cerchi, which
is still today pilgrimage of lovers, is the place where he met Beatrice
for the first time. In the following centuries the memory of the exact
location of Dante’s house was lost. To remedy this, the municipality
at the end of the 1800s and early 1900s had important research car-
ried out by distinguished scholars, which based on studies and pop-
ular tradition established that the house of the great poet was in the
place where today is the museum that remembers him. The museum
was opened to the public in 1995 on the occasion of the vii centenary
of his birth, it is divided into three floors and narrates the salient as-
pects of his life. On the first floor is documented the Florence of the
time, the youth of Dante the baptism in the “beautiful San Giovan-
ni”, the meeting with Beatrice, his appointment as prior of the city
and the participation at the battle of Campaldino. On the second
floor is illustrated the painful exile well expressed by the verses of the
Divine Comedy: “Tu proverai sì come sa di sale lo pane altrui, e come
è duro calle lo scendere e ’l salir per l’altrui scale”, and the wandering
of the poet to Bologna, Verona and Forlì. Dante spent his last years
in Ravenna where he will find his death, 1301. On the third floor are
reproductions of famous works by famous artists, Giotto, Michelan-
gelo, Fra’ Angelico, Ghirlandaio, Raphael narrating his life.
  PALAZZO STROZZI  It is considered perhaps the most beautiful
Renaissance palace in Italy, overlooking the homonymous square a
few steps from the elegant Via Tornabuoni and a few minutes from
the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria. Its history is intertwined
with that of Filippo Strozzi, a very rich banker and exponent of one
of the most powerful Florentine families. In open contrast to the

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Medici, the Strozzi were exiled, Filippo moved to Naples where he

accumulated a considerable fortune, returned to Florence in 1446
decided to take revenge and give new luster to his family. In order
to do this, he smoothed out the old contrasts with the lords of the
city, investing its enormous resources in the construction of a pal-
ace that had to be of such beauty as to make its ancient rivals feel
as dwarfs. Giuliano da Sangallo, Benedetto da Maiano and Simone
del Pollaiolo alternated in its construction. But Palazzo Strozzi was
destined to conflict, the truce did not endure and the two families
clashed again. In 1538, at the end of the works, which had lasted 50
years, the building was confiscated by Cosimo i de’ Medici. The
Strozzi will be back in possession of the building thirty years later:
it will be returned to the cardinal Lorenzo Strozzi brother Filip-
po who in the meantime died a suicide in prison. Today Palazzo
Strozzi belongs to the State, inside it hosts important exhibitions,
it is the permanent seat of the Vieusseux cabinet, of the homony-
mous foundation and of the institute of studies of the Renaissance.
Inside the beautiful internal courtyard there is a coffee bar, a book-
shop and a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Strozzi family. In
addition, concerts of jazz and contemporary music are often held.
  CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA  Although beautiful it is not
among the most visited monuments in Florence and this is a real
shame. Standing on the homonymous square near the railway sta-
tion, built between 1200 and 1300 by Jacopo Talenti, also author
of the bell tower, is a superb example of Italian Gothic. Its elegant
façade in white and green marble, is divided in the lower part by
small arches, here stands the portal of Leon Battista Alberti while
at the top in the large tympanum is depicted the face of Jesus, in-
serted in a solar disk symbol of the neighborhood of Santa Maria
Novella. The interior has three naves and contains great master-
pieces, the Crucifix by Giotto, the Trinità by Masaccio. The fresco
is one of the earliest works to use accurately the system of linear
perspective. Behind the high altar there are frescoes realized by
Ghirlandaio, perhaps with the help of the young Michelangelo. In

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Filippo Strozzi Chapel, there are frescoes by Filippino Lippi, al-

so the author of the beautiful stained-glass windows, while in the
Gondi chapel there is a beautiful wooden Crucifix by Brunelleschi.
Attached to the Church you can visit the four beautiful monumen-
tal Cloisters, the Cloister of the Dead, the Green Cloister, Chios-
tro degli Ubriachi and the Cappellone degli Spagnoli. Worth also
seeing is the refectory and the cemetery of the Avelli burial place of
the Florentine nobility.
Admission to the basilica is free, while a single ticket €5 (for
reductions and information contact the number 055219257 or
consult the site [email protected]) allows the visit of the frescoes of the
Kiosks, the Cappellone of the Spaniards and the cemetery. From
April to September open from Mondays to Fridays, 9 am-7 pm;
from October to March from 9 am to 5.30 pm, Saturdays and reli-
gious pre-holidays from September to June 9 am-5.30 pm, July and
August 9 am-6.30 pm, Sundays and religious holidays from Sep-
tember to June 1-5.30 pm, July and August 12 am-6.30 pm.
  PIAZZA SANTA MARIA NOVELLA The construction of the square
began in 1287; the works ended in 1325. Was initially used by the
faithful who flocked in large numbers to attend the sermons of the
friars. Later it became the stage of the Palio dei Cocchi, a race with
carriages similar to Roman chariots. Bordered by elegant palaces of
1500-1600 in front of the Church, the beautiful portico of the an-
cient hospital of San Paolo founded in the xii century and two obe-
lisks by Giambologna.
  FARMACIA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA  Via della Scala 16, open ev-
ery day 9 am-8 pm. Very close to the square, it is not a traditional
pharmacy but a pharmaceutical workshop of perfumes and essenc-
es. Founded in 1612, it is the oldest pharmacy in Europe and one of
the oldest in the world. Furnished with beautiful antique furniture
surrounded by beautiful windows, in this place you can blow an air
of other times. Instruments, measuring cups and stills, documents
of great scientific value, precious vases surround the atmosphere
permeated by the smells and essences produced inside. Here you

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can buy products that are certainly not cheap but surely unique,
not to be missed for a visit.
  VIA TORNABUONI  Fomerly Via dei Legnaioli, took the current
name when they were sent away to let the noble families of Flor-
ence take their place. It is the most elegant and aristocratic street in
the city surrounded by beautiful and elegant buildings, including:
Palazzo Strozzi, Palazzo Spini-Feroni, Medici Tornaquinci and the
Ferragamo Museum. Quaint and peculiar is Palazzo Dudley with
its characteristic balcony which is on the corner with Via della Spa-
da and Via della Vigna Nuova. Today Via Tornabuoni is known
only for its boutiques of international fashion houses; they have
closed once famous venues that had a unifying function such as the
old Seeber bookstore or the ancient coffee Casoni (later Giacosa)
where the Negroni cocktail was invented. The street on weekends
and after the closure of banks, shops and offices is practically de-
serted: to reverse the trend the town has favored the opening of a
new café in the same place where previously was located the histor-
ic Florentine bar Giacosa.
  PONTE SANTA TRINITÀ  It stands between Ponte Vecchio and
Ponte alla Carraia, at the confluence of the elegant Lungarni Ac-
ciaiuoli and Corsini, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in
Italy [Figure 52 Ponte S. Trinita, p. 327]. It joins Piazza Santa Trinita
to Piazza Frescobaldi, the noble family who had it built at its own
expense in 1252. Initially it was built of wood and connected the
other bank of the Arno to Via Tornabuoni, it was destroyed and
rebuilt several times, but its current shape is due to the disastrous
flood of 1557 that swept away the existing bridge. It was Cosimo i
de’ Medici who commissioned Bartolomeo Ammannati to build
a new one that was resistant but also beautiful, up to the impor-
tance that had taken Via Tornabuoni and Via Maggio where the
noble families of the Medici court resided, the work began in
1567 and ended three years later. It is probable that the project
was by Michelangelo and that the Ammannati was inspired by it;
it would be suggested by the elliptical shape of the three arches,

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equal to the catenary curve used by Buonarroti for the vaults of

the Medici Chapels. On the sides of the bridge there are four
beautiful statues, representing the different seasons and are the
work of Pietro Francavilla and Giovanni Caccini. Holy Trinity
was destroyed by the Germans in the Second World War, what we
see is the exact and faithful reconstruction that occurred in 1958,
curated directly by the City of Florence; for the reconstruction
were used the stones of the original bridge recovered in the river.
  BASILICA DI SAN MARCO  This ancient basilica is in a very busy ar-
ea not far from S.S. Annunziata, from the Accademia Gallery and
the Duomo. The Church was originally part of the ancient homon-
ymous monastery built in 1300 where before there was a monastery
of the order of Salvestrini. The basilica was a thriving center of art
and spirituality of the 1400s. The façade is in neoclassical style and
dates back to 1777, while the bell tower dates back to 1512 and was
realized by a project by Baccio d’Agnolo. Famous people operated
here, including Cosimo il Vecchio (the Elder), Tommaso Caccini,
follower of Girolamo Savonarola, intransigent flogger of the cos-
tumes and author of the bonfire of the vanities that was burnt in
Piazza Signoria May 23, 1498, and above all the Beato Angelico.
The Dominican convent of San Marco contains the Museo di San
Marco, which hosts the world largest collection of paintings and
frescoes by Fra’ Angelico, who was a monk here. The church has a
single nave and several side chapels; noteworthy works of art, in-
cluding: Crucifix of Fra’ Angelico and another Crucifix of 1355 of
Orcagna school. The vision of St. Thomas by Santi di Tito. Above
the high altar there are the beautiful frescoes by Alessandro Ghe-
rardini, 1717. Giorgio La Pira (1904-77), a Sicilian who served as
mayor of Florence in the 1950s and ’60s, is buried here.
Opening hours: museum, from Mondays to Fridays from 8.15
am to 1.50 pm, cost € 4, for early bookings there is an extra of € 3,
Saturdays, Sundays and holidays 8.15 am-4.50 pm, tel. 055 2388608.
It’s possible to book online. Free admission to the basilica: from
9.45 am to 4.45 pm, holidays from 2 to 5 pm.

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  CHIESA DELLA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA This beautiful basilica

much loved by the Florentines who here celebrate the Annun-
ciation and the Nativity of Mary, is located in the beautiful and
homonymous square. Rebuilt in the fifteenth century by Mich-
elozzo where stood the oratory Santa Maria dei Servi founded in
1520, outside on the central arch of the loggia there are frescoes of
Pontormo, while the central door is enriched by a mosaic of Ghir-
landaio depicting the Annunciation. The interior of the church is
characterized by a Baroque style, the ceiling is richly decorated by
Volterrano and next to each window there is a painting that recalls
the miracles of the Madonna. The three organs are beautiful, while
along the aisles there are the chapels dedicated to the saints with
numerous paintings, in one of these, that of S. Andrea Apostolo
there is a painting by Pontormo. To see the choir of Michelozzo
that dates back to 1444, next to it is a coretto where the Medici
family assisted secluded to religious services. In the church there is
a fresco venerated by the Florentines: it is a painting of 1252 started
by a monk and, it is said, finished by an angel. Many couples after
the wedding offer a bouquet of flowers to the Virgin, praying for a
long and happy marriage.
Hours: from 7.30 to 12.30 am and from 4 to 6.30 pm, free ad-
mission.
  PIAZZA SANTISSIMA ANNUNZIATA  Beautiful and elegant square sur-
rounded by splendid lateral loggias and elegant palaces that frame
it, closed by the splendid basilica of the same name. In front of the
basilica, looking back, you can admire Via dei Servi with Brunelles-
chi’s dome in the background. The square was designed in 1419 by
Filippo Brunelleschi who was already involved in the design of the
Spedale degli Innocenti. The brilliant artist introduced for the first
time the use and concept of proportions that would become the cor-
nerstones of all Renaissance architecture. Bartolomeo Ammannati
is responsible for the construction of Palazzo Grifoni, which would
later become Palazzo Budini Gattai and will be completed by Buon-
talenti. Next to Palazzo Grifoni there is the portico of the Servi di

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Maria designed by Baccio d’Agnolo and Antonio da Sangallo. On

the opposite side the Spedale degli Innocenti, built for the recep-
tion of abandoned children and orphans with the beautiful arcade
in front. Above the columns there are decorations by Andrea della
Robbia with dolls dressed as newborns representing the orphans and
abandoned children. The square is also known for two legends.
• The window always open. If you look from the square to Palaz-
zo Grifoni, or Budini Gattai, on the right side of a small emblem
you will notice a window ajar, this window holds a legend. At the
end of 1500 a scion of the Grifoni family left for the war, from the
window in question appeared his wife to address a final greeting
to her husband. The woman was desperate, but hoping for a re-
turn, she began to spend her days at the window hoping to see
her husband return. He never returned and the young woman
died widowed. At this point the legend proposes two different
finales: in the first it is claimed that the neighborhood, moved
by the sad affair, imposed the reopening of the window, which in
the meantime had been closed. The other says that at the death
of the woman strange phenomena began in the room, the lights
went out, the paintings detached themselves from the walls and
the furniture began to move, but when the window was opened
again everything came back to normality. According to a further
version, the gaze of the statue of Ferdinando i de’ Medici placed
in the center of the square (equestrian statue of Ferdinando i,
the first public monument to a Medici ruler set up in Florence in
his own lifetime. Giambologna’s last work, it was cast in 1608 by
his pupil Pietro Tacca, who designed the base) would be staring
at the window in question; even if the dates do not coincide, it
is said that his gaze corresponded with the young woman of the
Grifoni family window, because the young lady was clandestine-
ly loved by the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The husband noticed
that, and forced his wife to keep the shutters closed.
• The closed window. This would not be a new in itself, because
there are many closed windows, not only in Florence but also

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in other cities. This instead is linked to a story that actually

happened in the city and narrates one of the many conspira-
cies against the Medici family. In the center of Florence, a few
steps from Piazza del Duomo, there is Via dei Servi. At the cor-
ner with Via dei Pucci at the first floor of an elegant building,
there is a walled window, this happened in 1560 by order of Co-
simo de’ Medici. Here is the story: the Pucci family, allies of
the Medici, became a bitter enemy when Pandolfo Pucci was
ousted from the city government with defamatory accusations.
Furious about the incident he hired some assassins who lurked
at the window waiting for Cosimo’s passage to the Church of
S.S. Annunziata with the clear intent to suppress him. The plot
was discovered and Pandolfo Pucci was tried and hanged inside
the Bargello fortress. The window was walled as a warning to
possible future criminals and it still is.
  GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA  Via Ricasoli 58/60. The gallery was
founded for study purposes in 1784, with a group of paintings giv-
en to the Accademia di Belle Arti by Grand Duke Pietro Leopol-
do. Other great works by important artists are present within this
extraordinary place; among these, the Ghirlandaio, the Pontormo,
Jacopo di Cione, the Giambologna, the Orcagna, Andrea del Sar-
to, Alessandro Allori and many, many others.
Hours: open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15 am-6.50 pm, closed on
Mondays, January 1st, May 1st, December 25th and the fourth Sun-
day of each month. Cost: € 8, reduced € 4, citizens ue between 18
and 25 pay € 3.25. It is possible of course to book tickets by calling
055 294883 or online.
  OPIFICIO DELLE PIETRE DURE Via degli Afani 78. Although it is
not as famous as the other museums it is a place of great interest.
It was founded in 1588 by the Grand Duke Ferdinando de’ Medi-
ci who wanted to create a structure that was able to decorate the
Chapels of the Princes, inside the Medici Chapels. This refined
craft, perfected in Florence (also known as mosaico fiorentino),

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is remarkable for its durability: subsequently it spread through-

out Europe. Observe on the first floor some exposed works, veri-
fy the perfect resemblance between these and the paintings used
as samples to reproduce the work, the result is so amazing that it
seems to be in front of a photograph. On the first floor are exposed
all the stones used for manifacturing the works from all over the
world and the tools used for their making. Notice the evolution
of the technique over the time, this will be particularly evident in
the Lorraine hall. Today the institute is an universally recognized
excellence in the restoration field. Great was his contribution to
recovering the works damaged by the 1966 flood.
  PALAZZO DEL BARGELLO Via del Proconsolo 4. The massive cren-
ellated Palazzo del Bargello, with its very high tower, is thought to
have been built in the 1290s as the Palazzo del Primo Popolo, and is
the oldest seat of government that survives in the city. Constructed
in pietra forte, it was begun in 1255, according to Vasari, to a design
by a certain Lapo Tedesco, the master of Arnolfo di Cambio, and
building continued until 1330-50. At the end of the 13th century, the
priors (priori) took over as the rulers and they moved into Palazzo
Vecchio, the Bargello became the official residence of the Podestà,
the governing magistrate, who was also traditionally a non-Floren-
tine. They remained here until 1502, and later in the same century
the building became known as the Bargello, when the police head-
quarters were moved there and prisons were installed the Podestà,
the Council of Justice, and since 1574, under Cosimo i has become
the seat of the Captain of Justice, called precisely Bargello. It has
also been used as a prison for over three centuries. Over time it has
undergone many important changes that have not altered its im-
posing appearance, today it is an important museum that hosts the
inside numerous statues of major Renaissance artists, among them,
Donatello, which has a room to he dedicated, Michelangelo, Ben-
venuto Cellini, Verrocchio, and Luca della Robbia. In the museum
are also exhibited the panels made by Brunelleschi and Ghiberti for
participation in the competition held in 1401 for the construction

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and decoration of the north door of the Baptistery. The portico be-
hind the courtyard is beautiful, on its walls are the shields of the
Podestà and the Florentine districts and the statues sculpted by Bar-
tolomeo Ammannati, Baccio Bandinelli and Giambologna. Open-
ing hours Monday and Sunday from 8.15 am to 2 pm. For informa-
tion and reservations call tel. 055 2388606 or contact the web-site
www.museodelbargello.it.
  PIAZZA SANTA CROCE  One of the most attractive and spacious
squares in the city, has been used since the 14th century for festi-
vals and public spectacles, and the traditional St John’s Day foot-
ball game “Calcio storico”(24th June) has been held here for many
centuries: the four historic districts of Florence, Santa Croce, San
Giovanni, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, distinguished
by the colors blue, green, white, red face each other. The game,
whose rules date back to 1580, is a mixture between football, rugby
and wrestling and between the calcianti deal each other a bunch
of blows to the limit, and even beyond, the regulation. The area
around the square and the square itself are full of locals and the eve-
ning is the object of nightlife, to be avoided if you want tranquility.
One such house is Palazzo dell’Antella, Palazzo Cocchi (Serristo-
ri). The huge statue of Dante beside the church is by Enrico Pazzi
(1865): it was erected with great pomp and ceremony in the centre
of the piazza on the sixth centenary of the poet’s birth, but after the
Arno flood in 1966 it was moved to its present position.
  CHIESA DI SANTA CROCE  Built in 1294 for the order of the Fran-
ciscans on a project probably by Arnolfo di Cambio, it is one of the
most beautiful examples of Italian Gothic. Worn out by the flood
of 1966, a plaque placed in the wall recalls the height reached by
the water during the tragic event, has returned to its former glory
thanks to a careful restoration. It is also referred to as the “tempio
dell’Itale Glorie”, definition by the poet Foscolo buried in the ba-
silica, because it contains within the tombs of many of the great
artists of the time, artists, writers and scientists. The interior of the

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Basilica is divided into three naves, the presence of many works of

art, makes the tourist think he is visiting an exhibition gallery and
not a church, this makes well clear the idea of the attractiveness
that Florence exercised on great artists during the Renaissance. Re-
markable is the main chapel frescoed by Agnolo Gaddi, but the
side chapels and graves attract attention (here among others rest:
Michelangelo, Galileo, Alfieri, Machiavelli, Foscolo, Rossini and
Leon Battista Alberti). On the right side of the Church there are
the Cappelle of the Peruzzi and the Bardi, both frescoed by Giot-
to. On the left side of the Pulci-Berardi Chapel there are paintings
by Bernardo Gaddi and the Cappella dei Bardi di Vernio with the
Crucifix by Donatello. Along the naves there are the tombs of the
notable citizens, including that of Dante which is empty, and the
commemorative plaques among which the Cenotaph of Dante.
From the Basilica you can access the Chapel of the Medici and the
beautifully frescoed Sacristy, the Cloisters of Arnolfo di Cambio
and Brunelleschi and the Pazzi Chapel designed by Brunelleschi
and decorated by Luca della Robbia and Giuliano da Maiano re-
mained unfinished following the Pazzi conspiracy that cost the life
of Giuliano de’ Medici. In the museum of the Opera there is the
Refettorio with a precious Crucifix by Cimabue and the bronze of
San Lodovico di Donatello.
Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays 9.30 am-5 pm; Sundays
and holidays 7 am-2 pm. For informations call tel. 055 2466105 or
visit the website www.santacroceopera.it. Cost: € 8, reduced € 6,
for children 11-17 years, free. Family tickets available with free ad-
mission for children up to 18 years.
  PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA  It is the heart of Florence, a must for ev-
ery visitor, the square begins to take its present form in 1268 when
the Guelphs, victorious in Benevento, destroyed the Ghibelline
houses. The paving dates back to 1385 and coincides with the con-
struction of Palazzo della Signoria, the current Palazzo Vecchio.
The magnificent stone façade and tall tower of Palazzo Vecchio
have dominated the square ever since the first years of the 14th

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century, when this fortified palace was built as the residence of the
city’s ruling priors. For more than a century it was the tallest edifice
in Florence, and its design was copied for the seat of government in
many other Tuscan towns. As the city’s political center, the square
has witnessed numerous events; among these the bonfire of the
vanities organized in 1497 by Girolamo Savonarola who burned
many works of art considered sinful, and the burning of the friar
the following year with the accusation of heresy: a plaque placed
next to the Neptune recalls such event. The sculptures of the Piazza
refer, with some contrast between them, to the Florentine political
events. Michelangelo’s David (the copy, the original is in the Acca-
demia gallery) set up at the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio in 1504, is
the symbol of the Florentine Republic’s power against the tyranny
of the Medici, a few meters away the statue of Hercules and Caco by
Baccio Bandinelli 1534, it symbolizes physical power. The Neptune,
Bartolomeo Ammannati, 1575, recalls the maritime ambitions of
the Medici while the bronze statue of Cosimo i of Giambologna,
1595, portrays the man who brought Tuscany under the military
power of the Medici. In the square, to the right of Palazzo Vecchio,
stands the Loggia della Signoria also known as Loggia dei Lanzi in
1376–82; it was designed by Orcagna. In the loggia you can admire
the Cellini’s magnificent bronze Perseus and the three-figure group
of the Rape of the Sabines from Giambologna.
  PALAZZO VECCHIO It is one of the emblems of Florence, its
unique tower allows its immediate identification. Initially called
Palazzo dei Priori or Palazzo Novo, it became the headquarters of
the Signoria in the xv century; one of the most significant moments
in the history of the palace came in 1540, when Cosimo i moved
here from Palazzo Medici. Today it is the town hall, inside there are
some municipal offices and the mayor’s office but it is also an im-
portant museum with magnificent rooms and works of great value.
The entrance is from the main door of Piazza Signoria and imme-
diately appears the beautiful porticoed Cortile di Michelozzo. The
Cortile also shows the insignia of all the churches and corporations

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of the arts and crafts. Salone dei Cinquecento: this immense hall
(53.5m by 22m, and 18m high) celebration of Cosimo i who moved
into the palace in 1540. The frescos panels, by Vasari and his work-
shop, represent allegories of the cities of Tuscany under Florentine
dominion, the foundations and early growth of Florence, and the
victories over Siena and Pisa (1554–5 and 1496–1509 respectively).
These frescoes cover those of the battles of Anghiari and Cascina,
painted by Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo Buonarroti. The
most important sculptures in the Salone dei Cinquecento line the
two long walls: Michelangelo’s Victory is a strongly knit two-figure
group, probably intended for a niche in the tomb of Giulio ii in
Rome. Giambologna’s original plaster model for Florence Victo-
rious over Pisa was commissioned as a pendant to Michelangelo’s
Victory (the marble is in the Bargello). The other 16th-century stat-
ues around the walls represent the Labours of Hercules and are the
best works of Vincenzo de’ Rossi, pupil of Bandinelli. The hall in
the period of Florence, capital of Italy, 1865-1871, was the seat of
the Parliament. Other things to see, the monumental areas full of
beautiful decorations that celebrate the power of the Medici, no-
table the room of Leone x, the pontiff son of Lorenzo Il Magnifi-
co, on the walls are painted the scenes that represent his triumphal
entry to Florence; we suggest you observing the beautiful fireplace
by Bartolomeo Ammannati. The Neighborhood of the Elements,
“Quartiere degli elementi”, leads directly to the Eleonora District,
one of the masterpieces of the building, designed by Vasari for Ele-
onora di Toledo, Cosimo’s wife: this suite of rooms was the apart-
ment used by Eleanor of Toledo, the wife of Cosimo i and daughter
of the Viceroy of Naples. The Cappella di Eleonora was decorated
by Bronzino in 1541–3 and is one of his most important and orig-
inal works. The Hall of Audiences “sala d’Udienza”: this, together
with the adjoining Sala dei Gigli, is the most beautiful room in the
palace. Formerly they were one huge hall, well lit with large win-
dows looking out over the city. The dividing wall was built in 1472
by Benedetto da Maiano. He and his brother Giuliano designed

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the magnificent doorway in the centre, crowned with a statue of

Justice facing the Sala d’Udienza, they also made the exquisite in-
tarsia doors, with figures of Dante and Petrarch. The Sala dei Gig-
li: from here you reach the room of the maps and the wardrobe,
here are kept 53 cards of great value by the friars Jacopo Danti and
Stefano Bonsignori, in the center of the room you can admire the
Globe Mundi work of 1581. The ancient furniture belonging to the
Medici family is also of considerable value. You can also visit the
undergrounds of Palazzo Vecchio, which rests partly on a Roman
amphitheater of the first century ad. The tower of Arnolfo and the
battlements repay visitors for the effort made to reach the top with
a stunning view.
Opening hours and suggested routes. Museo and percorso ar-
cheologico: from October to March every day 9 am-7 pm, except
Thursdays, Thursday 9 am-4 pm; from April to September every
day 9 am-9 pm except Thursdays, Thursday 9 am-2 pm. Mezzanine
and Loeser donation: every day 9 am-7 pm, excluding Thursdays,
Thursday 9 am-4 pm. Torre dell’Arnolfo: it is forbidden to children
under 16, it is not accessible in case of rain, opening hours: from
October to March every day 10 am-5 pm, except Thursdays, Thurs-
day 10 am-2 pm; from April to September, every day 9 am-9 pm,
except Thursdays, 9 am-2 pm. You can also take combined tours
and a tour that includes all the available options.
  PIAZZA DEL MERCATO NUOVO  Next to Piazza della Signoria, just
a few meters from the Ponte Vecchio and the Uffizi, today it is still
a busy market-place, and usually good value, almost exclusively
frequented by tourists for leather goods, scarves, gloves, bags and
souvenirs. The beautiful lodges are from the mid-1500s and are the
work of Giovan Battista Tasso. This square, however, is an oblig-
atory passage for those who come from Palazzo Vecchio and the
Duomo to the Ponte Vecchio. To Florentines it is known as Il Por-
cellino (the piglet), after the well-loved sculpture of a wild boar,
whose snout has been kept polished by generations of admirers,
shown seated beside a watering hole, surrounded by plants and

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small living creatures. It is a copy of the original bronze (now in

the Museo Stefano Bardini), made in 1620-3 by Pietro Tacca (who
based his work on a Hellenistic original preserved in the Uffizi).
It has become a tradition to slide a coin down the boar’s tongue:
if it falls into the grating beneath it will bring good luck. Next to
the statue there is also one of the typical stalls selling street food in
Florence, if you are fond of these foods do not hesitate! Tripe and
lampredotto cooked in various ways are good, safe and cheap. In the
square in the middle of the lodges, covered by the stalls and visible
at the closed market, there is a circular stone that was the symbol of
the Florentine Republic. Here the troops met before each battle, it
is also called the stone of the acculata, because there were brought
insolvent debtors, mostly decadent nobles or merchants adversaries
of the Medici, it was not easy to have contrasts with this powerful
family, to whom the assets were confiscated. The unfortunates were
chained, the slings were lowered and the buttocks were thrown re-
peatedly on the stone. From here comes the typically Florentine
saying still in force, to “be with the ass on the ground” or “sculo” to
indicate respectively a period of economic difficulties or bad luck.
  GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI  It is one of the most important and visited
museums in the world, forming a complex that includes the Gallery
of statues and paintings, the Vasari Corridor and the Palazzo Pitti col-
lections. The construction of the Uffizi is entrusted to Vasari in 1560,
the works will be completed in 1580 by Buontalenti and Francesco i
son of Cosimo i. Initially, the offices of the 13 most important mag-
istrates of the main guilds of the Medicean state were located in the
area (the current name Uffizi derives from this). Then the Medici de-
cided to use the gallery on the top floor as a personal gallery, transfer-
ring their rich collection of works of art, creating the first embryo of
the current Uffizi. Many changes made over the centuries; when the
Lorraine took over from the Medici, 1737, they expanded the gallery,
enriching it with masterpieces of Titian and Giorgione and opening
it to the public in 1769. In 1800 niches under the loggia were placed
statues depicting famous people. Currently, projects are being studied

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to expand the exhibition space, to allow the vision of the numerous

masterpieces still kept in the stores. The gallery is divided into rooms
dedicated to different periods.
• Sala del Medioevo  It hosts the Majesty of three great Tuscan
artists Cimabue, Giotto and Duccio da Boninsegna and works by
Florentine and Sienese school painters.
• Sala del Rinascimento  Here you can admire the works of Ma-
saccio, Masolino, Beato Angelico, Paolo Uccello, Filippo Lippi
and Pier della Francesca with the Portrait of Dukes of Urbino.
• Sala del Botticelli The Primavera, the Birth of Venus and the
great painter’s early works are shown here.
• Sala Leonardo  in this room two paintings by the great Renais-
sance genius, Annunciation and The adoration of the Magi, and
works by Perugino and Luca Signorelli.
• Sala dei Cinquecento  Houses the paintings of Michelangelo,
including the Tondo Doni, and works by Tiziano and Tintoretto.
• Sala blu e rossa  It houses works of Flemish school, sculptures
and paintings by Andrea del Sarto, Pontormo, Bronzino and Ros-
so Fiorentino.
• Sala del Caravaggio: here you can admire the Bacco and Head of
Medusa in addition to Guido Reni’s paintings.
Visiting hours: every day 8.15 am-6.50 pm closed on Mondays,
May 1st, New Year Day and Christmas. Ticket price € 6.50, reduced €
3.50. Free for citizens ue between 18-25 years, over 65 and holders of
the Firenze Card Vasariano. It is part of a path about 1 km long that
starts from Palazzo Vecchio.
  CORRIDOIO VASARIANO  It crosses the Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio and
finishes in the Boboli gardens close to the Cave of Buontalenti. It
was commissioned by the Medici that could move undisturbed
without running the risk that due to the turbulent situation they
feared in those times. His execution, 1565, was entrusted to the
Vasari. The entrance of the corridor is behind an anonymous door
placed in the corridor of the Uffizi, in this space are exposed many
self-portraits of artists of the age and paintings of Italian school of

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 What to see

the xvi and xvii centuries The Corridor was seriously damaged by
the attack of via Georgofili of 27 May 1993 that cost the lives of 5
people. Along the path through the small views that offer fantastic
panoramass of the River Arno and Florence. In the central point
the corridor crosses Ponte Vecchio, here in 1939 Mussolini had pan-
oramic windows done with a breathtaking view of the Arno and the
Ponte Santa Trinita. These were created on the occasion of Hitler’s
visit, the dictator was so impressed by such beauty that the bridge
was the only one not to be destroyed by the retreating German army.
The narrowing near the Mannelli tower was singular, but the owner
did not allow it to be demolished and Vasari had to, as they say in
Florence, get along. After crossing the Arno we arrive overlooking
the small church of Santa Felicita, here the Medici assisted privately
the religious services. The route ends in the Boboli Gardens [Figure
53 Bridges over the River Arno from the Vasari Corridor, p. 328].

  PONTE VECCHIO  It is one of the symbols of the city, its first con-
struction, in a different position from the current, dates back to
half of the i century ad In the ii century with the opening of the
Via Cassia it was built in its current position. It has been repeated-
ly ruined by floods. The present bridge of three arches was recon-
structed after a flood in 1345, by Taddeo Gaddi better known as a
painter of the Giottesque school (but the bridge is also attributed
to the architect Neri di Fioravante). It is known that this bridge
already had the little rectangular “piazza” in the centre, as it does
today. The bridge on this site has been lined by shops since the 13th
century. There were hosted shops of grocers, shoemakers, proven-
der sellers, butchers and haberdashers. By an edict issued by Grand
Duke Ferdinando i in 1594 the smelly butchers’ shops and grocery
stalls were replaced by those of goldsmiths and silversmiths. By an
edict issued by Grand Duke Ferdinando i in 1594 the smelly butch-
ers’ shops and grocery stalls were replaced by those of goldsmiths
and silversmiths, and they remain here to this day, famous all over
the world and a strong element characterizing the bridge itself. In
1901 a bust of Benvenuto Cellini was inaugurated. Those who visit

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Florence can not give up at least a walk. Especially suggestive are

the visions that can be admired at sunset and at night time [Figure
54 Ponte Vecchio, p. 328].

PALAZZO PITTI  Wanted by the Florentine banker Andrea Pitti to

rival the hated Medici family, it was thought since its construc-
tion, 1440, as the largest and most imposing private residence in
the city. According to news left by Vasari, the initial project would
be by Brunelleschi, but its realization is due to his pupil Luca Fan-
celli. The desire of the Pitti to compete with the Medici decreed
their economic ruin, in fact in 1450 Isabella di Toledo, Cosimo’s i
de’ Medici wife bought the palace that became Medici’s residence
and later that of the Grand Dukes of Tuscany, Lorraine and of the
Savoy. This led to a drastic transformation of the Oltrano district.
Bartolomeo Ammannati built a magnificent courtyard and the
Boboli Gardens, Vasari dedicated himself to the Vasari corridor.
Today Palazzo Pitti, inserted in the splendid square of the same
name, remains a great example of the innovation of Renaissance
architecture, and is home to important museums. Here are located
the Palatine Gallery and the Modern Art Gallery, the Silver and
Costume Museum, the Porcelain Museum and the Royal Apart-
ments. The magnificent Giardino di Boboli also, typical example of
Italian garden, is considered with its pools and its statues scattered
along its path, an open-air museum, extending on the entire hill up
to Forte di Belvedere.
  Opening hours: Museo degli argenti e delle porcellane, Gal-
leria del costume, Giardini di Boboli and Giardini Bardini:
Open Tuesday to Sunday, closed for New Year’s day, May 1st and
Christmas, from November to March 8.15 am-4.30 pm; at the be-
ginning of summertime closes at 5.30 pm, in April, May, September
and October 8.15 am-5.30 pm, with the re-entry of the winter time
solar hour closes at 4.30 pm, in June, July, August at 8.15 am-7 pm.
Galleria Palatina, Galleria Moderna, Appartamenti Reali: closed
for maintenance in January, open Tuesday to Sunday 8.15 am-6.50
pm, closed all Mondays, New Year’s Day, May 1st and Christmas.

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  CHIESA DI SANTO SPIRITO  In 1428 Brunelleschi was commissioned

to design a new church. However, building was not begun until
1444and in 1446, it was entrusted to Giovanni da Gaiole and Salvi
D’Andrea. Construction continued for most of the 15th century. The
bell tower, 1502, is the work of Baccio D’Agnolo, while in 1564 be-
gan the works for the great cloister. Over the centuries the basilica
has been modified several times, while the façade has remained un-
finished. The church with three naves is an enlarged and improved
version of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, proposes the typical ideas of
Brunelleschi made of harmonious spaces with simple and essential
forms. Noteworthy and valuable are the works inside with paintings
by Orcagna, Sansovino and Giuliano da Sangallo, the trusted archi-
tect of Lorenzo il Magnifico and a splendid wooden Crucifix by a
young Michelangelo. The church is located in the beautiful, lively
and picturesque square that bears the same name and which in sum-
mer is one of the most popular nightlife places.
  Opening Hours: 8.30-12 am and 3.45-6 pm, on holidays 8.30-12
pm and 3.45-5 pm, free admission. Museum entrance € 4.
  BASILICA DI SANTA MARIA DEL CARMINE  Located in the beautiful
and homonymous square in the popular district of San Frediano,
it belongs to the order of the Discalced Carmelites. Its construc-
tion began in 1268, was seriously damaged by a fire of 1771 in which
miraculously survived the chapels Brancacci and Corsini and fortu-
nately also the admirable paintings that adorn them. Its façade, like
those of Santo Spirito and San Lorenzo is unfinished but this does
not affect its beauty. Worth seeing are the frescoes and paintings
by Masaccio and Filippino Lippi that adorn the splendid Brancac-
ci chapel, a rich Florentine merchant and politician who commis-
sioned the works. The chapel includes amongst its masterpieces:
Masaccio’s Baptism of the Neophytes and Expulsion of Adam and Eve
from Paradise, one of the most moving works of the Renaissance,
perhaps the painter’s masterpiece, and Filippino Lippi’s St Peter
in Prison Visited by St Paul. The entire chapel has been recently re-
stored and the paintings have fully restored their former glory.

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  Opening  Hours: every day, except on Thursdays, 10 am-5 pm.

Sunday and holidays 1-5 pm. Free entry to the basilica; Brancacci
Chapel: € 6, discounts for students, children under 18 and over 65.
  PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO  It is the panoramic balcony par excel-
lence of the city, probably the most beautiful and certainly the best
known. Spectacular vision of the city and it monuments on the old
walls, an appointment not to be missed, that is particularly impres-
sive in the warm colors of the sunset. Designed in 1869 by Giuseppe
Poggi as part of the works for Florence capital of Italy and for the cel-
ebration of Michelangelo and his works, the copy of the David and
the 4 allegories of the Medici chapels are displayed in the center of
the square. Next to the Piazzale two stairways, one leads to San Salva-
tore al Monte, called the “Bella Villanella” by Michelangelo, the oth-
er in marble leads to the beautiful basilica of San Miniato al Monte.
  BASILICA DI SAN MINIATO AL MONTE  The church façade, begun c.
1090, is built of white and dark greenish marble in a geometric
design reminiscent of the Baptistery. At the end of the nave there
is the chapel of the Crucifix of Michelozzo, 1448, behind it the
Crypt, above which there is the raised presbytery with the precious
wooden choir of the xiv century. In the vault are the Evangelists
and in the lunettes the Life of St Benedict. Behind the church is the
monumental cemetery that houses tombs of famous people includ-
ing Carlo Lorenzini, Collodi, the author of Pinocchio.
  Opening Hours: in winter from 9 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to
7 pm, 9 am-8 pm in summer. Free entry.
If you are good walkers you can continue to the avenue Galileo admir-
ing the beautiful views that are always different at every turn, at the sec-
ond traffic light turn right take Via San Leonardo and in 5 minutes you
will be at Forte di Belvedere. Subsequently, after passing the door of
San Giorgio you will have at your disposal the museum and the Bardini
gardens, another fantastic panoramic terrace; continuing, a short de-
scent will take you back to the Lungarno near Ponte Vecchio. To get to

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 What to see

Piazzale Michelangelo, by bus lines 12/13, by car, but car parking is dif-
ficult, or on foot, there are 2 beautiful scenic routes. Better go walking.
  FORTE DI BELVEDERE  or Forte di San Giorgio is next to the hom-
onymous gate, it borders the Boboli Gardens. It was built in 1590
following the project of Buondelmonti and Don Giovanni De’
Medici. It was part of the defensive system of Florence, had a double
function, protected the city from external attacks and the notable
citizens from riots or internal revolts acting as impregnable fortress.
At the center of the fort there is the beautiful Belvedere palace, to-
day home to important exhibitions or special events. From the ter-
races of the fort and its inner bar, on the top floor, you can admire
one of the most beautiful views of the city, here sometimes during
the summer theater performances are organized, and on Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays aperitif (quality of food “Without praise
and without infamy”, but a panorama that compensates for this as-
pect). The structure usually closes at 21, if there are no shows, but the
timetable is indicative because it varies almost every year.
  GIARDINO VILLA (MUSEO) BARDINI  Costa San Giorgio 2. It takes
its name from Stefano Bardini, the most authoritative Italian anti-
quarian who lived in Florence most of his life and donated all his
works, collected in a beautiful collection, to the city that had host-
ed him. Near Forte Belvedere, surrounded by beautiful gardens
with a spectacular panoramic view, the museum of Villa Bardini
was inaugurated in 2008. It exhibits works by Pietro Annigoni and
an exhibition space of the Roberto Capucci foundation dedicated
to the work of the great Roman designer. Inside are exhibited also
weapons, sculptures, paintings and tapestries.
  Opening hours: November to February 8.15 am-4.30 pm; March,
April, May, September and October 8.15 am-6.30 pm; June, July and
August 8.15 am-7.30 pm. Entrance to Villa Bardini and gardens from
Lungarno Torrigiani, near Ponte Vecchio or from Costa San Gior-
gio, near Belvedere fort. Entrance to the museum from Via delle
Renai 37. Cost: Gardens € 10, reduced € 5; Villa € 8, reduced € 6;
possible cumulative tickets; for information, call tel. 055 20066206.

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Itinerary A
Beautiful churches ignored by mass tourism:
Santa Trinita → S.S. Apostoli → Chiesa di Ognissanti
→ Cenacolo di Santa Apollonia → Chiostro dello Scalzo
duration 1 day

Holy Trinity, S.S. Apostoli and Church of Ognissanti, are very close to
each other, in the historic center a few steps from Piazza Signoria,
Ponte Vecchio, Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Cenacle of Santa Apollonia,
and Chiostro dello Scalzo in the immediate vicinity of Piazza S. Marco.
 CHIESA DI SANTA TRINITA Piazza Santa Trinita. Not far from the Ar-
no and the Santa Trinita bridge, it overlooks the square of the same
name at the beginning of Via Tornabuoni. Wanted by the Vallombro-
sani monks it dates back to half of the XIV century. Originally it was
built in Romanesque style, but later it was enlarged and restored in
Gothic style. It belonged to the Strozzi and the Medici. The Church is
rich in works of art housed in its beautiful interior chapels. The six-
teenth-century façade of the Buondelmonti, with statues by Giovanni
Caccini, was built in 500 in the full counter-reformation, during this
period the Cappella maggiore was restored. It is however in 1400 that
the basilica knows its most important pictorial period. The Sassetti
chapel was built, dedicated to the rich Florentine merchant contain-
ing a series of frescoes dedicated to the life of Saint Francis of Assisi,
made by Domenico Ghirlandaio between 1482 and 1485.
• Cappella Davanzati It houses the sarcophagus of the Good Shepherd
of Rossellino, 1444, the Crowned Virgin of Bicci di Lorenzo, a fresco by
the founder of the order of the Vallombrosani, San Giovanni Gualberto,
by Neri di Bicci half 1440, brought here from the Pieve di San Pancrazio,
near San Casciano, and an announcement by the same author.
• Cappella Spini It preserves the fresco of the Holy Shepherd by
Alessandro Baldovinetti and a wooden figure, almost life size, by De-
siderio da Settignano, resembling the Maddalena of Donatello.

 BASILICA DEI SANTI APOSTOLI Piazza del Limbo. Very close to Piazza

Signoria and Ponte Vecchio. This beautiful and ancient church that is
located near the village of the same name and overlooks the square
of Limbo is lapped, but ignored, by mass tourism. According to tradi-
tion, questioned by many historians, the Church was wanted in 800 by

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 Itinerary A

Charlemagne. This is testified by a plaque in Latin on the façade of the

church and a relief by the sovereign near the door with the symbol of
the basilica above. There is no doubt that Santi Apostoli is one of the
best-preserved examples of the city’s churches. This was because he
succeeded in evading most of the "improvement" measures envisaged
by the Counter-Reformation. It seems that this is due to Michelangelo
who would have succeeded in convincing the architect in charge of
doing such work, to make only minor changes. In front of it is Piazza del
Limbo, so called because the unbaptized infants were buried there. Its
interior is quite simple but this enhances more its beauty. Look at the
beautiful hand-carved wooden beams, or the dark stone columns of
the central nave, coming from the ruins of the nearby Roman baths. It
houses numerous works of art, among which the most famous is un-
doubtedly the beautiful ceramic tabernacle created by Giovanni della
Robbia, which houses three stone fragments from the Holy Sepulcher.
These were donated by Goffredo di Buglione to Pazzino de Pazzi, com-
mander of the Crusader troops. They are still used today to light the
Easter fire and the colombina during the explosion of the cart.

 CHIESA DI OGNISSANTI It is located in the homonymous square a

few steps from the Arno, has a baroque façade but its origins are much
older. Its construction dates back to the mid-1200s, when the Umilia-
ti order was established in Florence, which built the church and the
convent outside the ancient city walls. When the order increased its
prestige, many patrons enriched the religious complex with the works
of the major artists of the time, Giotto, Taddeo Gaddi, Sandro Botticel-
li who is buried inside the basilica, Ghirlandaio. At the end of 500 the
building was assigned to the Franciscans who enlarged it by building
two cloisters, creating new altars and the façade in Baroque style.
Although many of the works originally found in All Saints have been
moved elsewhere, the Church still retains masterpieces within it that
deserve to be seen. Remarkable is the 16th century terracotta, placed
above the gate, which represents the coronation of the Virgin Mary, by
Benedetto Bugliani. The second altar in the right aisle is beautiful, with
the chapel of the Vespucci family, the same as Amerigo Vespucci, the
great navigator. The frescoes are by Ghirlandaio executed around 1470,
it is a Pietà and the Madonna della Misericordia that under his mantle
welcomes postulants, in reality it is the members of the Vespucci fami-
ly, among them is also the young Amerigo. These were covered in 1875,
the removal of the paint has caused damage to the frescoes that still

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remain very beautiful. At the center of the nave there are two works of
considerable value: the painting of S. Agostino by Botticelli and that of
S. Girolamo by Ghirlandaio. But the most famous work of art is undoubt-
edly the wooden Crucifix by Giotto, perfectly restored in the workshops
of the gemstone opificio. In the refectory there is a large cenacle of
Ghirlandaio and some scenes of life of Santa Fina.
  Timetable weekdays: 7.15-12.30 am and 4-8 pm, timetable holi-
days: 9-1 am and 4-8 pm, visit to the refectory 9-12 am days Monday,
Tuesday and Saturday.

 CENACOLO DI SANTA APOLLONIA Via xxvii Aprile. The cenacle of San-

ta Apollonia is only a part of what was once the convent of S. Apol-
lonia, one of the largest female convents in Florence. It is located in
Via S. Gallo between Via xxvii Aprile and Via Santa Reparata, in the im-
mediate vicinity of Piazza S. Marco and not far from the basilica of S.
Lorenzo, it is beautiful and above all free. The cenacle is dedicated to
the martyr Saint, who was toothless alive and for this she is the patron
saint of dentists. It was founded in 1339 by Pietro ser Mino, and incor-
porated in 1440 in an adjacent monastery that depended on S. Maria a
Mantignano. It was in this circumstance that the kiosk and the cenacle
were built, a large room with a coffered ceiling with frescoed walls by
Andrea del Castagno. A part of the complex is used as a museum, re-
fectory and some adjoining rooms, the cloister and other buildings
belong instead to the University of Florence and the Italian Army. The
Church is a real jewel has a beautiful ceiling and the dome frescoed
by Bernardino Poccetti, but being in the part not open to the public,
the images are stolen on the fly. The refectory with the famous fres-
co by Andrea del Castagno, which became visible from the end of the
19th century when the cloistered monastery was closed, can be visited
and is beautiful. The work is striking for its great beauty and for the
extraordinary use of perspective, although according to some it is a
bit gloomy. The two tables by Neri di Bicci are also very interesting. We
could not miss the image of St. Apollonia with a pair of pincers in hand
and a bleeding tooth attached to them. Also present a Madonna with a
child that joyfully rummages in the breasts of the mother and a fisher-
man of souls that on a scale separates the blessed from the damned.
 Timetable weekdays: from 8.15 to 13.50 am the first, third and fifth
Monday of the month, timetable holidays: from 8.15 to 13.50 am the
second and fourth Sunday of the month.

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 Itinerary B

 CHIOSTRO DELLO SCALZO Via Cavour 69, free admission, open

Monday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 8.15 am-3.30 pm. This jewel,
practically unknown to visitors, is a work of great beauty. The name
of the cloister derives from the one who carried the Crucifix in a pro-
cession that walked barefoot. Formerly it was the access to the chap-
el of the disciplined company of San Giovanni Battista founded in
1376. The simple and harmonious building was designed by Giuliano
da Sangallo. The fame and beauty of the place derive from the fact
that the works, although beautiful, were made without recurring to
the colors and gold, monochromatic technique, the authors of these
masterpieces are the two great Florentine masters, Andrea del Sar-
to, 1509 -1526, and Franciabigio, 1482-1525. The paintings reproduce
twelve scenes from the life of St. John, patron saint of the city and the
confraternity. The smaller squares represent the four virtues, faith,
hope, justice and charity.

Itinerary B
Discovering free or cheap Florence
duration 3 days
Florence is a beautiful city, certainly one of the most fascinating, but
surely can not be defined economic. In fact, hotels, restaurants or
even an ice cream taken in the wrong place, can represent an attack
on your finances. Care must be taken to avoid the pitfalls by looking
for the cheaper solutions that exist here too. In this regard we propose
an itinerary that goes through some of the most beautiful and famous
places in the city, all very close to each other, and other less known but
absolutely beautiful places, all free with the exception of the Opificio
delle pietre dure and the Basilica of S. Maria Novella, of the museum of
S. Marco, Museum of the Church of Santo Spirito, cost of admission €
4. This route if done entirely requires three days. If you want more de-
tailed information about the places proposed in the itinerary, consult
the pages of the guide that describe them with more details. Always
check schedules because they are subject to frequent changes.
• Chiostro dello Scalzo To see: the frescoes of Andrea del Sarto and
Franciabigio.

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• Basilica di San Marco To see: the Crucifix dell’Orcagna, the works

of Fra’ Angelico and the visions of St. Thomas, by Santi di Tito. The
adjacent museum can be visited, cost € 4, and there are numerous
works by Fra’ Angelico, Orcagna and Santi di Tito. Basilica timeta-
ble: 9-12 am and 4 pm-7 pm, there are no closing days, except for
those linked to particular unplanned events. Museum timetable:
every day 8.15 am-1.50 pm, Saturday and holidays 8.15 am-4.50
pm, closed the second and fourth Monday of the month and first,
third and fifth Sunday of the month.
• Piazza and Chiesa di S.S. Annunziata Here you can admire the
splendid Piazza del Brunelleschi surrounded by elegant build-
ings, the church of the same name with its works of art, the paint-
ing of St. Andrew the Apostle of Pontormo and the beautiful choir
of Michelozzo. Hours: every day 4-5.15 pm.
• Cenacolo di Santa Apollonia It exhibits the beautiful cenacle
of Andrea del Castagno and paintings by Neri di Bicci. Opening
hours: 8.15 am-1.50 pm, closed 1st, 3rd, 5th Saturday and Sunday
of the month.
• Opificio delle pietre dure Little frequented by tourists, very beau-
tiful and interesting, here you can admire the masterpieces re-
produced using hard stones joined together using a special tech-
nique born and practiced only here the “Florentine salesman”.
The institute is a world-class excellence in the restoration sector.
Opening hours: 8.15 am-2 pm, closed Sundays and holidays, ad-
mission € 4.
• Piazza del Duomo/Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore Admire the
square, a of the most beautiful in the world, the Baptistery, only
externally, the gates of Ghiberti’s paradise. Enter, for free inside
the Cathedral and admire the masterpieces, we recommend the
beautiful stained glass paintings by Donatello, Ghiberti and Nic-
colò da Tolentino. Cathedral Opening hours: 10 am-5 pm, Thursday
closes at 4.30 pm, Saturday and Sunday at 4.45 pm.
• Oratorio dei Buonomini Seat of the homonymous company, the
one that helped “the shameful poor”, is very close to the Duomo
and Dante’s house, inside two splendid paintings of the Ghirlan-
daio school. Hours: open every day, except Wednesday and Sun-
day, from 10 to 12 am and from 3 to 5 pm.

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 Itinerary B

• Chiesa and museo di Orsanmichele Do not miss the Orcagna

tabernacle, the paintings by Bernardo Daddi and the statues of
Brunelleschi in the museum. Hours: every day 10 am-5 pm.
• Piazza Signoria Without entering the very close and very pop-
ular Uffizi, you will still have many things to see, the square with
the statues of Ercole and Caco di Baccio Bandinelli, the copies
of Michelangelo’s David, the original is in the Accademia gallery,
and the Judith and Holofernes by Donatello, the original is inside
Palazzo Vecchio, Sala dei Gigli. The Neptune by Bartolommeo Am-
mannati and the statue of Cosimo, the first work by Giambologna.
Admire also the Loggia dei Lanzi, a splendid open-air gallery with
Benvenuto Cellini’s Perseus (original) and Giambologna’s Rape of
the Sabines.
• Piazza del Mercato Nuovo Continuing from Piazza Signoria after
a few meters you will find the piazza la with the statue of Pietro
Tacca’s Porcellino, original to the Bardini museum, considered a
real lucky charm, and, a little further, Ponte Vecchio.
• Chiesa dei Santi Apostoli Beautiful and little known, inside it has
the splendid ceramic altar of Giovanni della Robbia that preserves
the stones of the Holy Sepulcher used to light the Easter fire.
Hours: 4-7 pm. Closed Saturday, Sunday, Monday.
• Chiesa di Santa Trinità Very close to the homonymous bridge that
offers a beautiful view of Ponte Vecchio, also ignored by mass
tourism, it has works by Neri di Bicci, Ghirlandaio and Jacopo Chi-
menti. Hours: open every day from 7 to 12 am and from 4 to 7 pm.
• Chiesa di Ognissanti Beautiful church, in the homonymous
square, with a Baroque façade, here is buried Sandro Botticelli,
contains numerous works of art by great artists, Ghirlandaio, Tad-
deo Gaddi and a splendid wooden Crucifix by Giotto. Hours: week-
days 7.15-12.30 am and 4-8 pm, holidays 9-1 am and 4-8 pm. Refec-
tory 9-12 am Monday, Tuesday and Saturday; so if you want to see
both hold account for these differences.
• Piazza and Basilica di Santa Maria Novella Do not miss the square,
the beautiful basilica and its interior which is rich in valuable mas-
terpieces including the Crucifix by Giotto, the Trinità del Masaccio,
the frescoes by Ghirlandaio and the splendid portal of Leon Battis-
ta Alberti. Schedule. April, September 9 am-7 pm, October - March
9 am-5.30 pm, admission € 4.

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• Chiesa di Santo Spirito It is in Oltrarno very close to Piazza Pitti,

beautiful work by Brunelleschi, inside there are works by Sansovi-
no, Orcagna and a wooden Crucifix made by the young Michelan-
gelo. Timetable: weekdays 9.30-12.30 am and 4-5.30 pm, holidays
11.30-12.30 am and 4-5.30 pm.

At this point we suggest you to alternate the visit with a splendid walk
that will take you to Piazzale Michelangelo, passing through the San
Niccolò district, along the Lungarno to the homonymous tower. Take
the ramps designed by Poggi, stop at the garden of roses and admire
the garden and the splendid panorama, arrive at Piazzale Michelan-
gelo and do not miss the beautiful Basilica of San Miniato al Monte
which has inside a Crucifix of Michelozzo and frescoes of Spinello
Aretino. Do not miss the beautiful view of the city that can be admired
externally from the basilica. If you still want to walk continue along
the avenue Galileo, enjoy the beautiful views that appear, arrive at Via
San Leonardo and turn right. Take the small but beautiful road, among
other things, there is the house of Ottone Rosai, after a few minutes
you will be in Forte Belvedere, past the door of San Giorgio and in a
few minutes you will be in Ponte Vecchio.

From what originate some Florentine sayings

  BUCAIOLI C’È LE PASTE (BUCAIOLI THERE ARE THE PASTAS) Al-
though today this expression has taken on a meaning at the limit
of the vernacular, this saying typical of the Florentine vernacular
has origins linked to some professional activities of the time. Ac-
cording to some it refers to the shopkeepers of San Lorenzo who
still have their shops underground, in the hole for the Florentines.
At lunchtime, some carts were selling food, in order to attract the
attention of the shopkeepers who could not see them shouting,
“there are the pastas”, these went up quickly to buy what was nec-
essary to feed themselves. According to others we refer to those
who collected the sand used for construction from the shore of the
Arno, the renaioli. These blocked the boat with a pole anchored to
the bottom of the river, the removal of the sand formed big holes
and for this they were nicknamed bucaioli. At noon the wives of

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 From what originate some Florentine sayings

the boatmen from the edge of the embankment were shouting at

their husbands “bucaioli there are the pastas”.
  ESSERE RIDOTTI AL LUMICINO (BE REDUCED TO LITTLE LIGHT) We
refer to an ancient saying still in vogue addressed to people nearing
death or falling into poverty. At the end of Via dei Magazzini in the
center of Florence, the Piazzetta di San Martino rises not far from
the house of Dante. Nearby is the oratory of the Buonomini, at the
door of the homonymous chapel (which contains two beautiful
frescoes of Ghirlandaio’s workshop visited every day, Sunday and
Friday afternoon excluded, from 10 am to 12 am and from 3 pm to
5 pm), below a tabernacle in pietra serena, there is a box that recalls
the ancient writing was used for the “limosine for the poor shame-
ful”. These were people who, despite being in misery, were ashamed
to such an extent that they refused to beg for alms. Most of the
shameful were represented by nobles fallen into disgrace, mostly ad-
versaries of the Medici, or by widows with dependent children. The
Buonomini company, founded by Fra’ Antonio Pierozzi prior of the
convent of San Marco in 1412 and still existing, took care of them.
When the alms box was empty, the brothers lit a small lamp under
the statue of St. Anthony to solicit new offers. From here comes the
said being “reduced to little light”.
  BISCHERO, L’ORIGINE DI UN’OFFESA (BISCHERO, THE ORIGIN OF AN
OFFENSE)  Even if this word is benevolent in Tuscany, it is still today
an offense or a mockery. This is the story: the Bischeri family was
very powerful and wealthy, owned several palaces in the area adja-
cent to the Duomo, it is still remembered by a road sign, Canto dei
Bischeri, placed underneath the inscription of today’s Via dell’Ori-
uolo at the corner with Piazza del Duomo. When the Government
of Florence decided to build the current Cathedral on the remains
of the old Church of Santa Reparata, it asked the Bischeri family to
acquire the buildings that belonged to them and stood in the area
where the new Basilica should have been built. This family, sensing
the potential of the business in progress, rejected the various offers
made to raise prices. After months of unsuccessful negotiations, a

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major fire, probably of malicious origin, destroyed all the houses

involved in the deal by canceling the last advantageous purchase of-
fer. For the Bischeri was the economic collapse to which was added
the joke, the family in fact became the object of ridicule, irony and
sarcasm by the Florentines. Since then this name is used in mock-
ing terms indicating people who consider themselves too clever
when in reality they are not at all. This is perfectly photographed
by a proverb still in vogue “for the bischeri there isn’t a paradise”.
But the Bischeri proved to have a lot of intelligence, they changed
their name to Guadagni and emigrated to Romagna and France,
accumulating considerable fortune. They returned to Florence and
took up residence in the palaces of their ancestors who reacquired.
The beautiful building in Via dell’Oriuolo on the corner with Piaz-
za Duomo bears their name.

Where to eat: some good addresses

In Florence there are many taverns, inns and restaurants, some are
very good, others are tourist traps, we advise you to check well be-
fore choosing. We point out some good addresses where you can
enjoy a good meal or have a snack.
  ANTICO VINAIO  Via de Neri 74r, tel. 055 2382723, open every day
10 am-10 pm. Very close to Piazza della Signoria, this typical restau-
rant, always crowded, is a good place to stop and eat a sandwich or
a focaccia accompanied by a good glass of wine. Excellent cold cuts,
honest prices.
  TRATTORIA ANITA  Via del Parlascio 2r, tel. 055 218698, opening
hours: lunch 12 am-2.30 pm, dinner 7-10.30 pm, closed on Sundays.
Close to Piazza Signoria, to get there take Via Vinegia, Via dei Leoni
district, after a few meters you will find the restaurant. Typical Tus-
can trattoria, nice atmosphere, serves typical Florentine cuisine,
good food, always crowded it is advisable to book, honest prices.
  CANTINA OSTERIA IL VIVANDIERE  Via Torta 6, tel. 055 2001222,
opening hours: Monday and Tuesday closed only for lunch, the

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 Where to eat: some good addresses

other days open for lunch and dinner, closes at 11 pm. This small,
well-furnished and typical restaurant is located in the heart of the
S. Croce district. Excellent Tuscan cuisine: given the place surpris-
ingly measured prices, good first courses and dishes with wild boar,
excellent pork.
  TRATTORIA SERGIO GOZZI  Piazza San Lorenzo 8r, tel. 055 281941,
open only for lunch. Historical trattoria of Florence, very close to
the Piazza del Duomo, in front of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, this
typical place, a little Spartan, serves typical dishes of Tuscan cui-
sine, is very well known and therefore always crowded, very kind
staff excellent cuisine. Affordable prices, booking is recommended.
  TRATTORIA BORDINO  Via Stracciatella 9r, tel. 055 213048, opening
hours: lunch 12 am-2.30 pm, dinner 7-10.30 pm, closed on Sundays.
A stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Pitti, beautiful and
characteristic trattoria with excellent cuisine, at lunch excellent tour-
ist menu at about 10 €; for this reason very frequented by Florentines
and tourists, in the evening à la carte dinner, more expensive.
  TRATTORIA DILADDARNO  Via dei Serragli 108r, tel. 055 224917,
opening hours: closed on Mondays, open from Tuesday to Sunday
12 am-3 pm and 7 pm-00.30 am. Typical tuscan trattoria, the name
written in pure Florentine actually means Oltrarno. Located in the
heart of the popular district of San Frediano, near the historical
Piazze Pitti, Santo Spirito and del Carmine offers its patrons the
typical Florentine cuisine. Do not miss the fillet with green pepper,
homemade pasta, steak and stewed boar. Fair prices.
  MERCATO CENTRALE  Via dell’Ariento. It is the old city market,
finely restored, this structure still houses the ancient food shops on
the ground floor, and on the 1st floor restaurants of various kinds;
if you go in from Via dell’Ariento at lunchtime, you will notice on
your right a small row. These people, predominantly Florentine but
not only, are waiting to have lunch at Nerbone, a good cheap place
to eat, on the ground floor of the busy market, and enjoy the dishes
of boiled meat, tripe or lampredotto that have made it famous. The

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first floor is occupied by restaurants of all kinds, here you will find
pizza, homemade pasta, and classic restaurants. Sort where you like
and sit back, you can sit anywhere. Usually crowded, especially on
weekends, very popular with young people.
  CIRCOLO RONDINELLA DEL TORRINO  Lungarno Soderini 2, tel. 055
215921. This restaurant (this is an Arci club run by volunteers) re-
cently renovated has certainly not the charm of the most renowned
restaurants, but it is a pleasant place, and those who stop here, es-
pecially in summer, can always find something to eat, pasta, sand-
wiches or pizza all served outdoors with beautiful views of the Lun-
garni and Florence, is in front of the Excelsior hotel. It is in Oltrar-
no a few steps from the Vespucci Bridge, from Piazza Cestello and
Piazza del Carmine, frequented mainly by locals, very low prices.
  APERICENA WITH A VIEW  Some of the most prestigious hotels in
the city, and numerous bars, offer aperitifs at affordable prices, in
many cases there are authentic buffets, and start from 8 pm on-
wards, offering breathtaking views.
• Westing Excelsior Florence  Piazza Ognissanti, tel. 055 27151. If
you want to have a special dinner this is the place for you. This
historic, elegant 5-star hotel serves spectacular aperitifs on the
panoramic terrace on the sixth floor. With € 20 you can have a
buffet dinner, in a fantastic place that offers a breathtaking over-
look of Florence, Lungarni, Piazzale Michelangelo and Forte
Belvedere. Not to be missed, there is no reservation required.
• Hotel Baglioni Piazza dell’Unità Italiana 6, tel. 055 23580.
Even this historic hotel in the city center offers on the splendid
Brunelleschi aperitif terrace with a stunning view of the Duomo,
the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels. Only the
view is worth the price.
• Flo Lounge Bar  Viale Michelangelo 82, tel. 055 650791. This
beautiful bar offers a breathtaking view of Piazzale Michelange-
lo and the entire city, even here the view alone is worth the cost
of the aperitif.

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 Bars and ice cream parlors

  STREET FOOD
• Da Marione Piazzale di Porta Romana, open only for lunch,
closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Unfortunately, this authentic
temple of street food changed its management in September 2017,
Marione, typical big man with a colorful and plump face has fold-
ed, replaced by other people; the place continues to be crowded
but the quality, while remaining good, is no more as it was before.
It is located in the square of Porta Romana, with a view of the old
walls and the ancient gate, near to the Boboli Gardens.

Bars and ice cream parlors

Of course there are numerous bars, cafes and ice cream parlors we
point out some places where we think it is worth stopping.
  MAGAZZINI LA RINASCENTE  Piazza della Repubblica. This great
department store, accessible from the square and from Via degli
Speziali, has a panoramic bar on the top floor with a delightful view
on the Cathedral, Orsanmichele and the Palazzo dell’Arte della La-
na. Sit down at a table relax with a cup of tea or coffee and enjoy the
view. Another panoramic coffee is in Piazzale degli Uffizi in front of
the gallery, the bar that is above the Loggia of Orcagna has a magnif-
icent terrace. Breathtaking view on the Palazzo Vecchio and Piazza
della Signoria, here prices are very high but you will be rewarded by
one of the most charming panoramas in the world. In recent times
even in this terrace the aperi-dinner (apericena) is served.
  BAR CAFFE’ GILLI  Via Roma 1, tel. 055 213896, closes at mid-
night. It is one of the historic Florentine cafes, a stone’s throw from
the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Signoria, a good place to
stop, even if not really cheap, consider that we are downtown in
the heart of Florence.
  BAR LE GIUBBE ROSSE  Piazza della Repubblica 13/14r, tel. 055
212280, closes at one in the morning. It is the coffee par excellence
of Florence, always a meeting place for intellectuals and writers,
now much less, but still fascinating. Worth a stop.

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  BAR CAFFE’ RIVOIRE  Piazza della Signoria, tel. 055 214412, closes
at 9 pm. Prestigious city cafe, beautiful, very elegant interior rooms
where in winter it is very pleasant to sip a coffee or tea accompa-
nied by delicious self production pastries or chocolates. But if you
want to enjoy the magical atmosphere of the restaurant, sit at the
outdoor tables and enjoy the view of the square, Palazzo Vecchio
and the Loggia dell’Orcagna.
  GELATERIA VIVOLI  Via Isola delle Stinche 7, tel. 055 292334, closes
at midnight. It has always been the iconic ice cream shop in Florence,
it is located a few steps from Piazza Santa Croce. His ice cream is so
good that in the seventies the pediatricians of the district suggest-
ed to the parents who had children who missed the fruit to eat the
ice cream of Vivoli. Today the small local has expanded but the ice
cream is always delicious, certainly one of the best, if not the best, of
the city. To get there take Via Torta, it is on the opposite side of the
basilica, after 100 meters turn right and you have arrived.
  GELATERIA STREGA NOCCIOLA Via Ricasoli 16r, tel. 055 217375.
This delicious and small ice cream shop is located near Piazza Duo-
mo, fantastic fruit ice creams, a must the lavender taste.

Where to park in Florence

A premise: parking is not easy and is also expensive; also take into
account traffic that can slow you down considerably. This concerns
more who comes from outside and decides to make a one-day visit,
in fact, those who stay at a hotel or in a private home have probably
managed to find a solution to this problem. However, if, under the
circumstances, you are still decided to use your car here is a list of
some parking lots.
• Piazza Stazione  underground, places almost always available,
price € 3/hour.
• Piazza Ghiberti  underground, near Piazza Santa Croce, price
€ 2/hour.
• Parking of the Parterre, 055 50302209, € 10 for the whole day.

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 Where to park in Florence

• Alternatives: the flaw of these good parking facilities, in addi-

tion to the price, is that they are not easily accessible, without
taking into account the variable traffic. Without doubt the best
solution is to search parking in the area of Piazzale di Porta
Romana or in the streets adjacent to walls, or in the parking
lot inside the walls € 3/hour. Park where is allowed, if you do
not do this you almost have the mathematical certainty of be-
ing fined; keep an eye on the signs that in the area indicate the
daily afternoon cleaning with prohibition to stop from 13 to 18
(generally the first week of the month in different areas, take
informations to avoid bad surprises, you can do it by contact-
ing the Municipal Police in Piazza della Calza just after Porta
Romana): once you have found the parking crossed the walls
you will be in Piazza Pitti with a 15 minutes walk, with Ponte
Vecchio, Florence and Oltrarno at your disposal. If you do not
want to go walking you can take in Piazza della Calza the buses
number 11 and 37.
• Parking Villa Costanza, Scandicci: parking exchanger, ideal
for those who travel along the A1 and want to visit Florence and
is located near the exit of Scandicci. From there you can take
the tramway that in 25 minutes will take you to Piazza Stazione.

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 SIENA
THE CITY OF THE PALIO

On the map

226
227
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

Historical outline
The origins of the ancient Saena Julia root back in the etruscan era.
An ancient legend tells us Siena was founded by Senio, the son of
Romolo, founder of Rome; although in Siena there are numer-
ous statues of the Wolf nursing the twins the assertion is histori-
cally unfounded. In reality it didn’t begin growing into a proper
town until in 30 bc when the Romans established a military col-
ony called Sena Iulia. With the barbarian invasions in vi century
bc the Lombards, and later the Franks, also had an input in the
governing of the city. Great works were carried out, the most im-
portant being the Via Francigena, the road which linked Rome to
France. The advent of the pilgrims determined a strong growth in
the political and military importance of the city. Siena reached its
maximum splendour in 1147 when it became an autonomous mu-
nicipality after a long episcopal dominion. Economic rivalry and
territorial conflict with neighbouring Florence, which was anti-im-
perial, or Guelf, made Siena the centre of pro-imperial Ghibel-
linism in Tuscany. The Sienese reached the peak of political success
on September 4, 1260, when their army crushed the Florentines at
the Battle of Montaperti. This victory is still celebrated during the
Palio, but the Florentines had their revenge nine years later. Soon
afterward, Siena itself turned Guelf, putting an end to the war with
Florence, and began a new period of great development. Is in the
decades around the xiv century that Siena reaches its maximum
splendour from the artistic and architectural point of view, some
great artists and great personalities of the era were born in Siena:
Guido da Siena, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, who worked with Giotto
in Florence, Simone Martini, Santa Caterina da Siena, patroness of
Italy and Enea Silvio Piccolomini the future Pope Pio ii. In those
years are built Piazza del Campo, the Palazzo Pubblico, the Ca-
thedral and the Torre del Mangia. Unfortunately the outbreak of
the Black Death in 1348 determined the decadence, decimates the
population and causing an economic collapse. A prolonged period
of famine and rebellion brought Siena to the loss of independence.

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 The history of the Palio

This will last until the Unity of Italy. Today Siena, recognized by
Unesco as a perfect example of a medieval city, is a quiet town.
Being an open-air museum, tourism that is certainly the predomi-
nant activity (the beautiful surroundings of Siena, the Crete Senesi
and the val d’Orcia were declared also patrimony of humanity for
their uniqueness), but the confectionary, biotechnology and phar-
maceutical industries represent a great economical resource, while
for what pertains the tertiary sector around Monte dei Paschi, the
oldest bank in the world, still has a major influence.

The history of the Palio

We don’t know with certainty when this competition started, what
is certain is that already in 1200, when the event was referred to as
Palio alla lunga, was run a bareback horse race called the Palio of
San Bonifacio and constituted a race through the city streets to
the Duomo Vecchio (dedicated to St. Boniface). These horse races
organized by the noble Sienese families had a strong religious and
political significance; the race started from the doors of the city
and those who arrived first at the Cathedral received a “pallium”
(which explains the origin of the word Palio), a richly decorat-
ed banner, which after was also called “cencio” or “drappellone”,
a silk drape, which is a large painted canvas designed and created
by a different artist each year and which remains in the winner’s
Contrade museum. It undoubtedly arises from a very ancient tra-
dition, and its embryo goes back to the battle of Montaperti in
1260, where the Sienese defeated the Florentines, an event of cap-
ital importance that still today is emphasized in modern Palios.
But it is closely linked also to the figure of the Madonna: despite
not being the patron Saint of Siena, Virgin Mary has always been
regarded as a protector of the city. The two main Palios raced in
Siena are consecrated to Our Lady, the first one is raced on the
July 2nd and is called the Palio of the Maddona of Provenzano,
the second one the August 16th to celebrate the assumption in
Heaven of Virgin Mary.

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

Her figure has always been present in all Palios painted over the
centuries. Thereto the Sienese always seek help from Her, as it hap-
pened before the battle of Monteaperti when in Duomo they of-
fered to Virgin Mary the keys of the city or on the occasion of the
second world war when during the passing of the war-front they
invoked her protection. But there is another episode preserved by
popular tradition that mixes the devotion to Mary with the aver-
sion to Florence. On 2 July 1594 the story tells of little statue of
the Virgin in a tabernacle in the Contrada bearing the name of
Capitan Provenzano Salvani, who had previously led the Sienese
to victory. On that day, one of the guards of the medieval garrison
shot at the statue with his archebus. The statue was damaged, but
the fatal weapon exploded in the hands of the blasphemer killing
him on the spot. This occurrence was interpreted as a sign of de-
votion to the Virgin by the city. In subsequent years on the site of
the “miracle” was erected the basilica dedicated to the Madonna
of Provenzano, anniversary which is celebrated every year with the
Palio of July 2nd. In 1500 took hold the “Palio alla tonda” as we
know it today, the race takes place in Piazza del Campo surrounded
by the enthusiasm of the people. From 1600 until today the race
has never been interrupted, harking back to the regulation of 1656
that sanctioned its the official birth, establishing also the birth of
the Contradas and the place of race. The Contrade began from
1659 to record in the minutes their victories. The Palio of Siena
as an event takes place over 4 main days and the race is done on
the last day. The entry in Piazza del Campo is free of course, you
can access the square up to 6 pm entering from the curve of the
Casato, but don’t restrict yourself only to see the race. The Palio
lasts three laps, and there is a previous negotiation during the so
called “Mossa”: each Contrada can, during the excited phases of the
“Mossa” establish negotiations through the jockeys to win alliances
that could favor their victory, or the Contradas who do not have
the chance to win, encourage the victory of the friend Contrada
putting the enemy one out of contention. These things obviously

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 The districts (Contrade) of Siena and their history

occur upon payment. If you are in town on the day of the Palio
enjoy the parade of the Contradas, heading to the cathedral for the
blessing, admire the richness of the costumes, which date back to
the time period from 1430 to 1480, and the ability of flag-wavers,
observe the spasmodic expectation which can be glimpsed in the
eyes of the Contrada members when they await the assigment of
horses positions on the starting line. If instead you end up on the
eve of the race in a Contrada you should have the chance to see or
even feast (something actually very difficult if you do not know
someone that could introduce you) on propitiatory dinners orga-
nized in each Contrada; you will taste food of excellent quality, and
have the chance to see with your own eyes the passion of Siena for
this celebration. Eventually, never congratulate those contradaioli
who arrived at second place at the end of the race, this placement
is considered by the Sienese an authentic misfortune. In any case,
do not merely observe the race in a detached manner, try instead to
grasp the essence and the atmosphere, and have a great regard for
this event even if you do not fully understand its meaning. Be well
aware that a great number of people dedicate to this tradition time,
efforts and economic resources. And, despite the fact that the Palio
is seen by a growing number of tourists, it is, and it always will be
the feast of Siena and the Sienese.

The districts (Contrade) of Siena and their history

The Contrade (districts, quarters, wards or neighbourhoods) born
between 1200 and 1300, were initially approximately 60, and then
reduced to 42 when in 1348 Siena was hit by the plague, becoming
23 in 1400. Nowadays there are 17 Contradas, due to edict dated
1729 and signed by the governor of the city, Beatrice Violante of
Bavaria: she defined formal boundaries for the Contrade. Here is a
list of the names of the surviving Contradas: Aquila (Eagle), Bruco
(Caterpillar), Chiocciola (Snail), Civetta (Owl), Drago (Dragon),
Giraffa (Giraffe), Istrice (Porcupine), Leocorno (Unicorn), Lupa
(She-Wolf ), Nicchio (Shell), Oca (Goose), Onda (Wave), Pan-

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

tera (Panther), Selva (Forest), Tartuca (Tortoise), Torre (Tower),

Valdimontone (Ram). There are burning rivalries between the
Contrade, and the majority these rivalries goes back to long time
ago; their origins are mostly unknown. However, it is thought that
most of the rivalries were formed over boundary issues, or events
that occurred during a Palio. These rivalries involve: Aquila and
Pantera – Chiocciola and Tartuca – Civetta and Leocorno – Istrice
and Lupa – Nicchio and Valdimontone – Oca, Onda and Torre.
The Bruco, Giraffa and Selva have no enemies instead. The Con-
trade have a fundamental role in the life of the Palio: contradai-
oli preserve and handed down traditions over the centuries, and
during Palio time they do not cheer for their Contrada but are
linked to it by a strong sense of belonging. The Mass is celebrated
and it is attended by believers and non-believers; the Priest blesses
the Horse and the Jockey invoking their victory or, if this is not
just possible, at least the defeat of the rival Contrada. Once a year is
celebrated the baptism of the Contradas: this celebration sees the
consecration of newborns came into the world within its territory.
Babies move their first steps in case-loads full of their Contrada’s
earth. From an early age kids are tought to play drums and wave
flags. These may seem archaic exaggerations, but the Contrade (dis-
tricts) headquarters are a meeting place, where dinners and other
recreational activities are organized; the contradaioli also take care
of solidarity helping the indigents and taking an active role in peo-
ple’s life attending various events such as weddings and funerals.
The districts are governed by two main figures: one is the Captain
who deals with the decisions related to the Palio; the other person
in charge is the Prior who takes care of the various activities to be
carried out during the year. Both of these positions, as well as all
the other parts of the board, are elected positions and change every
two years. Each district has right inside a museum that houses the
various Palios won; often they are authentic masterpieces painted
by the greatest artists of the period, Sienese and not. These art-
works are visible during the days in which the Palio is run; in other

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 Addresses of the Contrade

periods of the year if interested you can go to the tourist informa-

tion office to book a visit. These are the points to turn to: Piazza
Duomo 1, tel. 0577 280551 open every day from 9 am to 5.30 pm
– Railway Station tel. 0577 270600.

Addresses of the Contrade

We provide this information because walking through the streets
of Siena can happen to pass in front of one of their headquarters.
Observe them carefully because, as stated above, they represent,
past, present and future of the city.
Aquila, Via del Casato di sotto 49 – Bruco, Via del Comune 4 –
Chiocciola, Via San Marco 31 – Civetta, Castellare degli Ugurgeri
– Drago, Via del Paradiso – Giraffa, Via delle Vergini – Istrice, Via
di Camollia 91 – Leocorno, Piazzetta Virgilio Grassi – Lupa, Via
Vallerozzi 71 – Valdimontone, Via Valdimontone 6 – Nicchio, Via
dell’Oliviera 47 – Oca, Via del Tiratoio 11 – Onda, Via San Gi-
useppe 111 – Pantera, Via San Quirico 26 – Selva, Piazzetta della
Selva 4 – Tartuca, Via Pendola 28 – Torre, Via di Salicotto 130.
Siena Infopoint, Piazza del Campo 69, tel. 0577 282384. Man-
aged by private individuals, in addition to providing information
organizes guided visits to the city and the districts, and also sells
tickets to visit the Cathedral and various museums.

Useful addresses
 MUNICIPAL POLICE  0577 292550.
 STATE POLICE  0577 201111.
 CARABINIERI, SIENA CENTER  0577 289265.
 HEALTH EMERGENCIES  Ospedale le Scotte 057 75851.
 ANTICA FARMACIA DEL CAMPO  Piazza del Campo, tel. 0577 280234.
 FARMACIA GORI  Via Banchi di Sopra 18, tel. 0577 280233.
 FARMACIA FIORE  Via Camollia 13, tel. 0577 281113.

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

Getting around in the city

We suggest you walking around, the historical center of Siena has
quite small dimensions and so it’s easy to explore; enjoy its palaces
and elegant streets.

Not to be missed
Siena is not only a beautiful city full of things to see, but as already
said, is also pleasant and you can easily explore its center on foot
for its small size. Despite being a famous and therefore much vis-
ited city, it retains in some respects the relaxed atmosphere of a
large village. Discover and admire city beauties strolling through
the narrow and elegant medieval streets, do not miss a hike to Via
di Città, Via Banchi di Sopra and Via Banchi di Sotto, don’t forget
to give a look at the districts headquarters, inside they hide true art
treasures, because the Palios have always been painted by famous
artists. You can visit the Contrade Museums the days when the
Palio is run, otherwise you can book a measure visit at the infor-
mation office in Siena (see the history of the districts). The Palio is
typically urban tradition lived and felt with authentic popular pas-
sion, the inhabitants of Siena considered this event a prerogative
belonging to them alone. The central core of the city is the famous
Piazza del Campo of course, unifying the heart of the city and the
place where two times a year takes place this race so deeply felt and
intensely involving.
  PIAZZA DEL CAMPO  A must for every visitor is one of the most
beautiful squares of the world, the unifying element of the city. Just
like in the Middle Ages, Piazza del Campo is the centre of Siena.
Its homogeneous shape is not accidental, in fact in 1297 before
the construction of the buildings were established guidelines with
strict limitations of height and adornment: guidelines to which ev-
eryone had to obey by penalty the demolition of the building. It is
to this forward-looking measure that we owe the harmony and daz-
zling beauty of Piazza del Campo. The square has a circumference

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of 333 meters. The paving of the square was begun in 1327 and com-
pleted in 1349 and is in unique “knife”-shaped bricks. The shell-like
division of the brick paving into nine sections outlined in white
travertine stones dates from the time of the Governo “dei Nove”
in the 14th century and represents the city’s nine governors. Each
section represents a member of the government of the Nine unan-
imously recognized as one of the most stable and peaceful Italian
governments. From an artistic point of view, the sections were in-
tended to represent the folds of the mantle of the Virgin Mary, Pa-
troness of the city but considered the highest ruler of Siena. Today
the square, surrounded by elegant buildings among which stands
out the Public Palace and the Torre del Mangia with the beautiful
Fonte Gaia in the center, hosts the most important city events: in
addition to the Palio here are held Carnival events in February and
events organized by the municipality during the summer period.
Along the perimeter of the square there are the elegant coffee bars
where it is pleasant to stop and enjoy an espresso or an ice cream,
but first, take a look at the price lists to avoid unpleasant surprises.
  PALAZZO PUBBLICO OR PALAZZO COMUNALE  Is considered one of
the finest examples of gothic architecture. Formerly the residence
of the city’s Signoria, or Podestà, the building is now the seat of
the town council. Up until 1270 the town’s government had been
housed in a Church building, Church that was also the seat of the
Curia. The decision to erect a building to house the government
was taken in the second half of the 13th century, and then, under
the Government of the Nine, designs were drawn up for the con-
struction of the present palace (1293-1297). In the first half of 1400
was completed the large council chamber (Salone del Gran Consi-
glio) along with two side-wings on two floors; the median body of
the façade rises up for a further three floors and has at its center a
large copper disc bearing the monogram of Christ that was placed
here in 1425 to commemorate the sermons of San Bernardino in
Piazza del Campo. The stone lower section of the building opens
up with a loggia of typically Senese arches, above, the building is

235
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

in brick, with trifore windows. Inside, in addition to the entrance

of the civic museum there is the entrone, the courtyard where the
horses stop during the palio before lining up for the “move”.
 TORRE DEL MANGIA  tel. 0577 292615/0577 292620. To the left of
the Palazzo Pubblico rises this symbol of elegance, lightness and
power. The tower’s foundation stone was laid in 1325, but the actu-
al construction of the tower took place between 1338 and 1348. The
curious name of the tower derives from its first bell ringer, Giovanni
di Balduccio, who was nicknamed “mangia guadagni”, known for his
dissolute life (he was used to squander all his earnings in the taverns
of Siena) and who was commissioned to ring the hours in 1347. The
construction of the tower is based on the designs of the Perugia-born
architects and brothers Francesco and Muccio di Rinaldo directed
by Agostino di Giovanni. The foundation stones placed at the four
corners of the tower contain coins with engraved latin and Jewish
letters as good luck charms, a tradition very common in the Mid-
dle Ages, to protect the tower from thunders, storms, lightnings and
other misfortunes. The bell or the Campanone, as the Sienese call it
(it is also called “Sunto” because it was dedicated to the Madonna
dell’Assunta), weighs 6760 kg and replaced in 1666 the old bell melt-
ed in 1349. The work however wasn’t perfectly successful, its sound
in fact was out of tune with the automatic clapper (put into place in
1379, the last year the tower had a guardian), despite the changes to
which it was submitted. Only when it is played manually the sound
is pleasant, but this occurs only during the Palio [Figure 56 Torre del
Mangia, p. 329].
 Opening times: winter, from October 16th to February 28th
weekdays and holidays from 10am to 4 pm; summer, from March 1st
to October 15th from 10 am to 7 pm, Christmas closed, New Year
open from 12 am to 4 pm. Tickets price: € 10, € 25 for families with 2
adults and children over 11 years old, children up to 11 years free en-
try. The tickets valid for 2 days. Civic Museum and Santa Maria della
Scala € 13, Civic Museum, Santa Maria della Scala and Tower € 20.
Reduced ticket for families including Museums and Tower € 40.

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 Not to be missed

 MUSEO CIVICO  For informations 0577 292615/0577 292614. Its

access is from gothic courtyard of the Palazzo Pubblico, and is one
of the most important museums in Italy, formed by beautiful and
elegant halls, contains some of the finest paintings, sculptures and
frescoes of the renowned Senese School.
• Sala del Mappamondo  it contains two works by Simone Mar-
tini, the Majesty, a fresco painted between 1312 and 1315, which
portrays Mary invited by the Saints to protect Siena and the
portrait of Guidoriccio da Fogliano at the siege of Montemassi,
1328, allegory of the sienese expansion in Maremma.
• Sala dei Nove  room with a cycle of frescoes known as the Al-
legory of Good and Bad Government, painted by Ambrogio
Lorenzetti in 1337.
• Sala del Risorgimento  It is decorated with frescoes of episodes
from the Unification of Italy, in particular the historical meet-
ing of Teano between Garibaldi and Vittorio Emanuele ii. The
museum includes a gothic chapel of the xv century that has pre-
served the furnishings of a previous chapel, a beautiful wooden
choir, a precious organ and a rare chandelier in the middle of
the hall.
  Opening times: from November 1st to March 15th from 10 am to
6 pm, from March 16th to October 30th from 10 am to 7 pm, Christ-
mas closed, New Year open 12 am-6 pm. Cost: full € 8, reduced € 7; in
advance the price is lower.
 FONTE GAIA  Beautiful fountain placed in the center of Piazza
del Campo. The fountain is named Fonte Gaia on account of the
great celebrations that took place when the inhabitants of Siena
saw the water gushing out from the fountain for the first time. In-
augurated in 1346, the water sprang thanks to a large underground
hydraulic and engineering work, which still exists today and is par-
tially accessible. Subsequently, in 1409, it was decided its embel-
lishment: Jacopo della Quercia, one of the greatest artists of the
time, received the commission to design the fountain from the Co-
mune. The artist drew the inspiration for his design of the fountain

237
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

from the traditional designs of Medieval Senese public fountains.

A large, altar-like rectangular basin is surrounded on three sides by
a high parapet. The sides are decorated with reliefs of The Creation
of Adam and The Flight from the Garden of Eden. Due to the
intense deterioration Fonte Gaia was removed and transferred in
1904 under the loggia of the Palazzo Pubblico, and replaced with
a copy; but the degeneration, also favored by the poor quality of
the material used when it was built continues. Now the opera is
placed in the Museum of Santa Maria della Scala, where from 2011
is exposed to the public after a twenty-year restoration that has re-
turned this masterwork to its ancient splendour. In the square in
its place, is exposed a work in Carrara marble made by the Sienese
sculptor Tito Sarrocchi, who was commissioned to sculpt the new
fountain in 1858 and completed it in 1869.
 CAPPELLA DI PIAZZA  Beneath the Torre del Mangia is located
this small chapel, a marble chapel that was put up by the Senese
to thank Our Lady for the end of the 1348 plague that hit the city.
The construction began in 1325 to designs by Domenico D’Agosti-
no, but the building was completed in 1376 by Giovanni di Cecco.
The considerably deteriorated fresco above the altar was painted
between 1537 and 1539 by Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, known as “the
Sodoma”. A large doorway leads to the Cortile del Podestà, (the
courtyard of the Podestà), with the elegant trifore windows built
in 1325 that offering a magnificent sight on the Torre del Mangia.
See also granite column surmounted by a gilded statue of the Se-
nese she-wolf, work of Giovanni and Lorenzo Turrino, dating back
to 1430. This column gives access to the Museo Civico within the
Palazzo Pubblico. The Church is dear to the heart of the sienese
because it hosts the mass of the jockeys before the Palio.
 COMPLESSO MUSEALE DI SANTA MARIA DELLA SCALA  It is one of
the oldest “spedali” of Europe, rises in the center of Siena beside
the Cathedral. It has performed its function of hospital until 1995,
for over a thousand years. It conserves an extraordinarily range of
historical items, ranging from Etruscan and Roman times, through

238
 Not to be missed

the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. In its halls you can admire
how the hospital was and the artworks it preserves. Here worked
the greatest artists of the time, Simone Martini, Ambrogio and
Piero Lorenzetti. Besides the frescoes (remarkable in the sala Pel-
legrinaio The Women and the lame man) here you can also admire
churches, chapels and oratorios. In the various visit routes there
are many permanent exhibitions that can be visited with a single
entrance ticket: The Archaeological Museum, the treasure of Con-
stantinople, the Antica Fonte Gaia of Jacopo della Quercia and the
Museum of flags of the Contradas. You can also visit the hospital,
its lanes, operating theaters around the Chiosco della Corticella.
  Orario: Opening hours: every day, except Tuesdays, 10.30 am-
4.30 pm, Saturdays and Sundays closes at 6.30 pm. Entrance fee €
6, reduced € 4.50. For informations tel. 0577 534571.
 MUSEO OPERA DEL DUOMO  For informations tel. 0577 286300. In
1339 Siena pondered the ambitious dream of making the current
Duomo the transept of a much larger Church: the Duomo Nuo-
vo. The construction of the so-called “Duomo Nuovo” was started
in 1339, under the direction of Lando di Pietro. Proceedings soon
ground to a halt, because the hill on which it had to be built turned
up to be unsuitable to support the weight of such a monumental
building, and due to the precarious conditions of the town’s coffers
after the great plague that hit Siena in 1348. In 1355 the project was
abandoned. In the adjacent Piazza Jacopo della Quercia are recog-
nizable elements of this new structure, including the Facciatone,
unfinished façade of the new cathedral. The museum is famous
for the artworks it hosts, among these a collection of sculptures in
marble by Nicola Pisano carved while Pisano was holding the post
of master-builder (1285–7). Extraordinary is the Majesty of Duccio
da Boninsegna, author also of the large Stained-glass rose window
to fill the round “oculus” opening above the Cathedral’s chancel
between 1287 and 1290. The collection also includes masterpieces
by Domenico Beccafumi, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Taddeo di Bar-
tolo, Sano di Pietro, Matteo di Giovanni. There are also wooden

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

sculptures of Jacopo della Quercia and Francesco di Valdambrino.

From the hall of the Parati you reach the Facciatone, from which
you can admire a splendid view over the city and the surrounding
countryside.
  Opening hours: from March 1st to October31st 10.30 am-7 pm,
ticket price € 13; from November 1str to January 24th and from Janu-
ary 7th to February 28th 10.30 am-5.30 pm, ticket price € 8.
 PINACOTECA NAZIONALE  Via San Pietro 29. One of the most
beautiful galleries in Italy. The original core of masterpieces of
1300-1400 by the Sienese painters was born thanks to the passion-
ate work of the abbots Giuseppe Ciaccheri, who gathered the paint-
ings of the most significant Sienese painters. In 1915 the Sienese
Niccolò Bonsignori left his palace to the provincial administration
to establish there a museum. The Museum was inaugurated in the
Buonsignori and Brigidi palaces in 1932. The entrance is simple,
elegant, and through the courtyard you will get to the stairs that
will conduce you to the 29 exhibition halls, where the masterpieces
of painters from the origins of Sienese painting until the second
half of the fifteenth century are displayed: Guido da Siena, Duccio
da Boninsegna, Simone Martini, Lippo Memmi, Pietro and Am-
brogio Lorenzetti (fourteenth century), Sano di Pietro, Giovanni
di Paolo, Sassetta, Matteo di Giovanni and Francesco di Giorgio
(fifteenth century).
 DUOMO DI SIENA Paid admission. This beautiful complex in
gothic style is located in the homonymous square, very close to Pi-
azza del Campo. The dome was built between 1259 and 1264. The
current structure was supposed to be only the transept of a huge
cathedral that remained in the project state and was never com-
pleted. But even so everything is magnificent, inserted in a magic
handkerchief that gathers the Museum of Santa Maria della Sca-
la and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. Inside you can admire
works by Donatello, Michelangelo, Nicola Pisano and the frescoes
by Pinturicchio. The Cathedral is of impressive beauty [Figure 57
Floor of the Duomo, p. 330]. The Latin cross design of the church in-

240
 Not to be missed

cludes three naves and is entirely sheathed in strips of alternating

black and white marble, a reference to the black and white colours
of the coat of arms of the city of Siena. The alternating white and
black bell tower next to the dome is Romanesque and rests on a
previously existing tower. [Figure 55 Sunset on the Duomo, p. 329].
• Tesori del Duomo  We suggest that you look carefully at the Ca-
thedral floor, this greatest of wonders is unfortunately open only
from late August to late October for purely conservative reasons;
during the remaining months it is covered with carpets near the
dome and presbytery. Here you will find the most impressive art-
works of the structure, masterpieces carried out like enormous
“puzzles”. This area in fact contains 56 square slabs each depicting
a scene inspired by salvation and completed by 40 different art-
ists, almost all of whom were from Siena except Pinturicchio. It
took 600 years to complete the work, the last slot was carried out
in 1800. At the center of the Cathedral it is possible to admire the
massacre of the Innocents by Matteo di Giovanni, 1481. The old-
est drawings are instead in the center near the entrance, they rep-
resent the wolf of Siena surrounded by the symbols of the allied
cities and the Wheel of fortune of 1369. The best thing is to visit
this rarity, € 8 per person, is take advantage of the help of a guide,
but this is very expensive unless you are in a large group; if you
want to spend less a good alternative is represented by the low-
cost earphones, about € 6 for three hours per person. Apparently
more beautiful and certainly much more dramatic is the visit to
the “Porta del cielo” (Gate of Heaven). This climbing anyway has
three negative aspects, lasts just thirty minutes, the number of
visitors is fixed to a certain quota, maximum 18 people at a time,
and you may not have the assistance of the guides that can not ac-
cess this space, moreover you can see the sight for a very short time
from a single terrace, cost of visit € 15. Do not miss the baptismal
font, work carved out between 1417 and 1430 by various sculp-
tors, among them Jacopo della Quercia, Donatello and Lorenzo
Ghiberti. On the left nave is altar Piccolomini, project carried out

241
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

between 1481 and 1485; the family’s altar was commissioned from
Andrea Bregno at the beginning of the 16th century, with four
sculptures by Michelangelo, San Pietro and San Pio placed on the
left and San Paolo and San Gregorio Magno placed on the right.
• Libreria Piccolomini  It is one of the many treasures of the Ca-
thedral, this space is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, rec-
onciler between the emperor Frederick iii and the state of the
Church and the one who combined the marriage between the
emperor and Eleonora d’Aragona . For this reason he was ap-
pointed Bishop of Trieste, 1447, and of Siena 1450. Later he be-
came a Cardinal and after two years he was named Pope taking
the name of Pio ii. Thanks to its power and authority, he has a
space just inside the Basilica. The current library was conceived
and built by his nephew, also a Cardinal and future Pope with
the name of Pio iii. Don’t miss the library, never completely
realized but contains precious handpainted manuscripts. Above
all, admire the splendid frescoes by Pinturicchio and his pupil
Raffaello Sanzio. At the center of the ceiling it is possible to ad-
mire another extraordinary work, it is the marvelous copy of the
three Graces of ancient Rome.
  Opening hours: The Cathedral, the Piccolomini Library, Baptis-
tery, crypt, the Museum of the Opera, from March 1st to November
1st 10.30 am-7 pm. Cathedral: Saturdays 10.30 am-6 pm, holidays 1-6
pm; from November 2nd to February 28th 10.30 am-5.30 pm, Satur-
days 10.30 am-5.30 pm, holidays 1.30-5.30 pm. Period uncovering Ca-
thedral floor: holidays 9.30 am-5.30 pm. These artworks can be seen
with only one ticket, Opa pass, valid for 3 days: cost € 12 from March
1st to October 31st and € 8 from November 1st to February 28th; tel.
0577 286300.
 I BOTTINI  Siena has a network of about 25 km of underground
aqueducts, called “bottini”. This technique for water supply has no
equal in the world, because it was associated with the particular
urban development that allowed the construction of one of the
largest medieval towns. You can visit these authentic works of art

242
 Not to be missed

excavated at eye level booking your tour with adequate notice at

the apt or the Infopoint of Siena. This visit offers you the oppor-
tunity to see the city from a different perspective, not to be missed.
 CHIESA DI SAN MARTINO  Is located in Via del Porrione just a few
steps from Piazza del Campo. It is one of the oldest churches in Sie-
na, mentioned as early as the eighth century and then, regularly, from
the mid-twelfth century. It owes its present appearance to Giovanni
Fontana who redesigned in 1813. The beautiful interior is enriched
with numerous works of art; on the left side of the nave, in the first
altar, The Glory of St Ivone by Raffaello Vanni (first half of the 17th
century), and on the third an authentic masterpiece of Domenico
Beccafumi which depicts the Nativity of Jesus (1524 c.), while on
altar of the left transept and a Madonna with the child, a beautiful
sculpture by Giuseppe Mazzuoli. On the first altar on the right we
can venerate a reproduction of the Madonna and Child by Naddo
Ceccarelli, pupil of Simone Martini. The masterpiece of Guido
Reni, 1300, is in the second altar: here you can admire the canvas
depicting the Circumcision of Jesus. The vault and the dome is dec-
orated with various allegories due to Annibale Mazzuoli. Next to
the church and Palazzo Piccolomini there are the loggias of the Pope.
They were commissioned by Pope Pio ii and built in 1462. “La Log-
gia” has a travertine façade with three large Renaissance-style arches.
 BASILICA DI SAN CLEMENTE DI SANTA MARIA DEI SERVI  Piazza Ales-
sandro Manzoni 5. It rises on the ancient church of San Clemente,
was erected at the behest of the served (Servants of Mary) who
sought a place for erect their convent. The work proceeded slowly
and ended after 100 years, leaving the unfinished façade. The Church
consecrated in 1533, is located on a hill that dominates Valdimon-
tone in the heart of the homonymous Contrada and is one of the
most beautiful panoramic points of Siena. The inhomogeneity of
the architectural styles do not detract from the beauty of the basilica
that has beautiful works of art, among them the second chapel on
the right there is the Madonna del Bordone of Coppo di Marcoval-
do, Florentine painter taken prisoner in the battle of Monteaperti

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

(1260), who painted this masterpiece thus rescuing his freedom, in

the chapel at the head of the transept you can admire the great Cross,
painted the fourteenth-century attributed to Niccolò di Segno or
Ugolino di Nerio, finally in the first chapel on the right the fresco
depicting the Massacre of the Innocents by Matteo di Giovanni and
other frescoes by Pietro Lorenzetti.
  Opening hours: from 8.30 to 18, celebrations Eve holiday hours
18, Sunday and holidays hours 12 and 18.
 BASILICA DI SAN DOMENICO  Piazza San Domenico 1. It is one of
the most beautiful and ancient Churches of Siena, this stupen-
dous Basilica, was one of the first to be dedicated to St. Dominic.
It was begun by the Dominicans in 1226 on the hill of Campore-
gio. It after underwent numerous changes due to natural disas-
ters, fires (1433, 1456 and 1531) and the disastrous earthquake of
1798. St. Catherine passed a large part of her life inside the walls
of this stupendous Basilica, her own father and other members
of her family were buried in the Crypt. This is even mentioned by
some paintings, in particular her canonization by Mattia Preti and
the painting by Andrea Vanni that depicts the Saint with a devotee
when she was still alive. The Chapel of Santa Caterina, built to host
the head, and is covered by beautiful frescoes begun by Antonio
Bazzi called “Sodoma”, who was a disciple of Leonardo da Vinci,
and concluded by Francesco Vanni at the end of 1500. In the Sac-
risty there are a beautiful painting of the Assunta by Sodoma and
traces of fourteenth-century frescoes on the vault. While in the
right wall of the Church there is a beautiful painting executed by
Francesco di Giorgio Martini, inspired by Verrocchio, depicting
the Adoration of the Shepherds (1485-1490), the lunette is by Mat-
teo di Giovanni. On the left side the painting by Francesco Vanni
depicting San Giacinto saving a statue of Our Lady and the Eu-
charistic Monstrance. The large transept is divided in many cha-
pels, and the third contains a large table by Matteo di Giovanni.
 PALAZZO OR ROCCA SALIMBENI  For informations tel. 0577 299468.
It overlooks the beautiful “piazza” and is the historical seat of the

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 Where to eat

Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the oldest bank in the world. This beau-
tiful palace also houses a collection which include artefacts of artists
linked to the city of Siena, among these: Pietro Lorenzetti, Sano di
Pietro, Stefano di Giovanni called il Sassetta, Rutilio Manetti, Jaco-
po della Quercia, Domenico Beccafumi, Riccio, and so on.
  Opening hours: the visit is free, access from the number 3 of
the square, but takes place only three days a year on occasion of
special events: morning of July 2nd during the Palio dedicated to
the Madonna of Provenzano; morning of August 15th on the eve
of the Palio of the Assumption, first Saturday of October, generally
from 10 am to 7 pm.

Where to eat
It is not easy to find places that are great value for money, especially
in places frequented by many tourists. We think we have succeeded,
suggesting simple cozy restaurants and bars with quality food and
affordable prices. And that’s not easy at all. You can also dine inside
the Contradas. The Leocorno, for instance, but also other districts,
arrange lunches or dinners, giving you the opportunity to eat in a
characteristic place. For informations contact the various infopoints
that could possibly make you join a group already made up.
  RISTORANTE PIZZERIA ORTO DEI PECCI Via della Giustizia 39, tel.
0577 222201, open every day for lunch and dinner, closed on Mon-
days. Amazing place 200 meters from Piazza del Campo, you can eat
deep in a green valley with a fabulous view of the Torre del Mangia,
surrounded by farmyard animals. This unique place has a history also
unknown to many Sieneses. Is a part of the city already peopled in
the Fourteenth Century (The Pecci Garden was built between 1326
and 1420, and is one of the most well preserved green spaces of medi-
eval Siena) and in 1348 was hit by the plague. It was the place crossed
by those who were sentenced to death before being executed. The
Orto de Pecci is in the former psychiatric hospital area in Siena: the
hospitalized cultivated fields and vegetable gardens and bred cattle
for the needs of the hospital. Today it is managed by the non-profit

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

social cooperative “La Proposta”, which aims to include people who

come from social marginalization in their work activities. But do not
be scared, the structure is an ideal space for everyone, both for relax-
ation and for the restaurant: the chefs are professionals, the wines
come from the best vineries of the area. There are no glaring menus
or embarrassing wine lists for the price of course, it is a simple place
as the old-fashioned trattorias of the past, offering tasty food, includ-
ing excellent pizzas and other Tuscan dishes, at absolutely affordable
prices. To try. Free parking. To get there by car, follow the signs for
Porta Romana, go past it and go straight to the telematic doors, after
about 500 m turn left entering under the arch of the psychiatric hos-
pital, then follow the signs for the Orto de Pecci.
  OSTERIA DEL GATTO  Via San Marco 8, tel. 0577 287133, open from
Monday to Friday 12.30 am to 3.30 pm and 7.30 to 10 pm, saturdays
7-10.30 pm, closed on Sundays. It is located at a short distance from
the University on the road leading to Porta San Marco; we are in the
Contrada of the Snail. Small trattoria, rustic, genuine and sometimes
crowded, good first courses in particular the pici, typical specialty of
sienese cuisine, moderate prices.
  PIZZALAND  Via Camollia 41/43, tel. 0577 289522, open from 10
am to 11 pm every day, except Sundays. Great place for a snack or
a quick lunch on the threshold of the center. Here you are close to
Porta Camollia in the Contrada of the Porcupine.
  LA PROSCIUTTERIA  Via Pantaneto angolo Magalotti, tel. 0577
42026. In the heart of the Contrada of Leocorno, this nice pub al-
most entirely underground, was excavated in the medieval cellar of
an ancient noble palace, shows its customers also an Etruscan tomb
discovered during the renovation works, wells and niches carved
into the tufa senese. Very popular among students and Sieneses, it
welcomes you with its delicacies to be enjoyed, particularly the pici,
but also the Sienese cold cuts and cheeses are very good; fair prices.
Obviously due to its characteristics the restaurant is cool in sum-
mer and warm in winter.

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 Bar and ice cream parlors

  OSTERIA IL MANGIONE  Via della Galluzza 3, tel. 0577 274717, open

for lunch 12.15 am-2.30 pm, dinner 7.15-10.30 pm, closed on Wednes-
days and Sundays for dinner. A stone’s throw from Piazza del Campo
in the territory of the Contrada of the Goose, this pleasant tavern
with a relaxed atmosphere welcomes you with its Sienese and Tuscan
specialties, excellent courses are pappardelle with wild boar, pappa al
pomodoro and stewed boar.
  OSTERIA IL GRATTACIELO  Via Pontani 8, tel. 334 6311458, open
from Tuesdays to Saturdays 11.30 am-7.30 pm, on Sundays and
Mondays 11.30 am-3 pm. Ancient osteria in the Contrada of the
Owl, is so ironically called due to the lack of space: the restaurant
is in fact not very large. It is an unconventional place, with no fixed
menu, and it can happen to share the same table with unknown
people. It is hung out by students, professors and workers. Sienese
and Tuscan cuisine, reasonable prices.
  RISTORANTE PROSCIUTTERIA PRETTO  Via dei Termini 4, tel. 0577
289089. Rustic and cozy restaurant near Piazza del Campo. Serves
excellent ribollita and exquisite selections of Cinta senese cold cuts.
Great place, nice atmosphere, affordable prices.

Bar and ice cream parlors

We propose to you a few stops to relax enjoying the confectionery
specialities of Siena. There are many others of course; we suggest
to you besides the historical pastry shops other reliable and good
quality confectioneries and bars. Take a look around however and
do not miss the opportunity to taste a slice of panforte or a riccia-
rello made by hand.
  BAR PASTICCERIA NANNINI  Via Banchi di Sopra 24, tel. 0577
236009, open all days from 7 am to 10.30 pm. Even if of the his-
torical bar and confectionery shop only the name has remained
and the quality is no longer what it once was, I continues to be
an important meeting point for the Sieneses and not. It is worth
stopping to take a break and enjoy a cup of coffee or a continen-

247
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

tal breakfast; but if you want to buy handcraft confectionery, look

around you, you’ll find better specialties at a cheaper price.
  PASTICCERIA BINI  Via di Stalloreggi 91/93, tel. 0577 280207,
open from Tuesdays to Saturdays 8 am to 1.30 pm, on Sundays 8
am to 1 pm, closed on Mondays Excellent and historical sienese
pastry shop, it has been in business since 1944, it offers fantastic
handcrafted cantucci, ricciarelli and confetti. A must for gourmands,
very close to Piazza Duomo and Piazza del Campo.
  PASTICCERIA BUTI  Via Vittorio Emanuele ii, tel. 0577 40464,
open from Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 am-1 pm and 4.30-7 pm, on
Sundays 8.30 am-1 pm. It is another excellent pastry shop, and
for many the Sieneses the one and only “Pastry shop”. It is locat-
ed near Porta Camollia; do not miss the “caramellato”, authentic
house specialty. It can be found only here because they have creat-
ed them, but also the other pastries deserve a taste. A good place
for a tasty break.
  GELATERIA IL CAMERLENGO  Piazza del Campo, open every day 7
am-6 pm in wintertime and 7 am-7.30 pm in summertime. There’s
no denying that this ice cream parlor produces excellent home-
made ice cream in one of the most beautiful scenery in the world
at cheap prices; the queue you often see mainly depends on this, in
addition to the undoubted advantage of the position. Here you can
enjoy good sandwiches and tasty tramezzino sandwiches. Keep in
mind for a stop.
  GELATERIA KOPAKABANA Via dei Rossi 52, open every day from
11 am to midnight. Very good artisanal ice cream shop just a few
steps from Piazza Tolomei and Rocca Salimbeni; passing from Via
Banchi di Sopra make a detour, it’s worth it.
  GELATERIA BIBO  Via Banchi di Sotto, 63, open every day except
Monday, 8 am-7 pm. This excellent artisan ice cream shop is in the
heart of the historic center in front of the Palazzo Piccolomini is
worth stopping, delicious ice cream.

248
 Getting to Siena

  GELATERIA LA VECCHIA LATTERIA  Via San Pietro 10, open every

day 12 am to 8 pm. Besides being an ice cream parlor is also yo-
gurt shop, both products are excellent and prices cheap; it is not
far from the center.

Getting to Siena
For tourists arriving by plane there are three possible alternatives:
car, bus, train. In the first case the reference airports are Pisa and
Florence, there is also a small airport in Siena but it has a very small
movement and is ignored by the major airlines. The airplane obvi-
ously requires the use of other means of transportation to be able
to move around; here are some of the possible combinations. If you
come from Pisa you have two options, rent a car or take the train to
Florence and continue by bus to Siena, otherwise take a direct train
to Siena. Sometimes there may be a connecting train to Empoli
and the journey time becomes longer; the express train however
makes many stops, and it takes about 90 minutes to get to Siena.
For travellers driving from southbound direction merge onto A1
Highway and exit at Val di Chiana, then take the freeway Siena
Bettolle, a beautiful road that crosses an amazing area. If you are
driving from northbound direction, merge onto A1 Highway and
exit at Firenze-Impruneta and subsequently at the junction enter
the freeway sgc fi-si that will lead you to Siena in less than an
hour. Hold the attention to the safety cameras. This road will be
very useful for visiting the most beautiful places in Chianti. If you
take the A12 Highway exit at Pisa Centro and take the sgc fi-pi-
li direction Firenze, exit at Scandicci intersection and take the A1
Highway direction Rome: at the first exit Firenze Impruneta, take
the sgc fi-si. In this route there is an alternative itinerary, simpler
but also more expensive (sgc instead is without toll). Exit at Pisa
Nord, it is the first exit of Pisa Centro, take the A11 Highway Fi-
renze Mare towards Florence, and at the intersection with the A1
proceed towards Rome and exit at Firenze Impruneta intersection
and then take the freeway to Siena.

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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO  

Parking in Siena
Being a medieval city parking is not easy and it is also expensive,
but we will give you some tips.
• The railway station car park  to get there exit at Siena Nord,
take Via Toscana and then Via Giovanni Paolo ii following the
signs for the railway station. Here a large parking awaits you at a
reasonable cost € 2 for the whole day, elsewhere you can also pay
€ 3 for an hour. From the parking lot, an escalator will take you
to Porta Camollia, the territory of the Porcupine Contrada, and
in just 5 minutes walk you will be in the historic center.
• Parking of the Orto dei Pecci  (see where to eat in Siena) nice
restaurant with parking near Piazza del Campo; calling and
booking lunch or dinner (prices more than affordable), you will
have the opportunity to park for free.
• Station of Poggibonsi  another good alternative is the combi-
nation of car and train, so you should drive to the station. To
get there, take the highway and exit at Poggibonsi sud junction,
pass the first roundabout, turn left, and shortly after you will
meet a second roundabout, Largo Campidoglio, move forward
on Via Vallepiatta, pass the railway and take the 2nd street on
the right, Via Montenero, pass the La Posta restaurant and turn
right: you have arrived in Piazza G. Mazzini. Next to the station
an ample, unpaved and free parking awaits you. All you have to
do is take the train and you will be in Siena in 15 minutes.
Leaving Siena
• To Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa and San Cascia-
no in Val di Pesa  the car is by far the best means, the sgc fi-si
makes these locations easily reachable within a little time.
• To San Gimignano  in this case also the car is the most appro-
priate means to move, taking the sgc fi-si you exit at Poggi-
bonsi North and at the roundabout take the second road.
• To Certaldo  same street exit at Poggibonsi Nord and then take
the regional road 429 towards Certaldo.

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 Leaving Siena

• To Greve in Chianti  the more spectacular route is the regional

road Chiantigiana 222, passing through Quercegrossa, Fonter-
utoli, Castellina in Chianti and Panzano; the shorter alternative
is represented by the sgc fi-si up until Tavarnelle: from there
take the road to Passignano (the Abbey is worth a visit), and
then you reach Greve through the fortified village of Monte-
fioralle. This last stretch of road is very nice.
• To Volterra  Take the sgc fi-si, exit at Colle Val d’Elsa south
and head toward Colle, from here follow the signs towards
Volterra, it’s a very pleasant itinerary.
• To Florence  we confirm that the use of the car for this desti-
nation is impractical: if anyway you intend to use this means
of transport, take the sgc fi-si and exit at the end of the inter-
change following the signs to Florence. To park, see in this guide
the entry “parking in Florence”, or follow the signs to Scandicci,
reach the Nenni Torregalli tram stop, along Viale Nenni. Here
you can park for free in the nearby parking lot or alternatively
in the Coop supermarket parking, free of charge. Tickets can be
bought at the bus-stop, but you need cash; alternatively you can
send a sms texting “Ataf ” to 055 4880105. In about 20 minutes
you can get to the center of Florence. Undoubtedly the alterna-
tive of the bus is better, there are many routes for both onbound
and return; consult the tourist info points or ask for informa-
tions where you are staying. In about 75 minutes you will be in
Piazza Stazione in Florence. Another possibility is represented
by the train, it takes a little more time because the railway line
makes a strange route passing through Empoli, but also in this
case in 90 minutes you will be at the train station of Santa Maria
Novella.

251
 MONTERIGGIONI
THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE

On the map

Historical outline
This charming and classic medieval hamlet is located halfway be-
tween Colle Val d’Elsa and Siena: is perhaps one of the most evoc-
ative medieval villages in Italy, stuated 14 km from Siena. You can
easily reach it by following the sgc fi-si, leaving the highway at
the homonymous exit. The Republic of Siena erected the castle be-
tween 1214 and 1219. In a dominant and strategic position on the
top of a low natural hillock, overlooking of the Via Cassia. Its ide-
al position allowed to control the Via Cassia/Francigena, the Elsa
and the Staggia Valleys in direction in Florence. It was a defensive
stronghold of Siena, and for this reason Monteriggioni has enjoyed
great fame since the Middle Ages, quoted by Dante Alighieri in The
Divine Comedy. It was repeatedly attacked, but never capitulated
to the assaults of 1244 and 1254 and to the siege of the Florentine
troops in 1269, when the Sienese troops defeated in Colle Val d’El-
sa took refuge inside the castle. The almost perfectly circular walls
have a total length of about 570 meters and were built, as we said,
between 1213 and 1219, following the natural contours of the hill.
There are fourteen towers on square bases set at equidistance, and
two portals or gates. One gate, the Porta Franca opens toward Sie-
na, and the other, San Giovanni Gate, faces Rome to the south. The
main street within the walls connects the two gates in an almost
straight line. The houses placed inside the walls are isolated from
it. Luckily, the village has not been subject to building or tourist

252
 Historical outline

business speculations, so it remained intertemporal almost intact.

The only changes were made in the xvi century when the towers
were lowered to match the defenses to new weapons, and dirt was
amassed at the base of the walls. The only restoration, conservative,
known from the village took place between 1920 and 1930.

253
254
 Monteriggioni today

Monteriggioni today
The center of the village, with the central Piazza Roma, is a suc-
cession of delicious craft shops, restaurants serving the typical
local dishes (wild boar, pappardelle, cured meats, Sienese wines),
and homes, incredible but true, still inhabited by locals and not
by tourists. Still nowadays the village, despite being visited every
year by over 700 people, maintains a calm and extremely relaxed
atmosphere.

What to see
 PIAZZA ROMA  The only large square of the hamlet is paved with
stones coming from the quarries of Rosia, a small village of the Mon-
tagnola Senese. Surrounded by orchards and gardens, it overlooks
the beautiful parish church in Roman-Gothic style, built in 1219,
the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, that has always been one of the
points of reference in this one-horse town life. Presents a facewalls
of travertine golden hue and whose ashlars are arranged on hori-
zontal courses and parallel and are very regular. Inside the church
you can admire two tabernacles of the xv century, a painting of the
Madonna of Lippo Vanni.
 MURA DI CINTA  A nice and relaxing path allowing you to see the
village from the top; it offers the visitor a different perspective of
the country. Admire calmly even the beautiful panorama offered
by the surrounding hills that gives the sojourner a typical snapshot
of the Tuscan landscape and of the Montagnola Senese. Particular-
ly fascinating is the spectacle offered by the surrounding fields and
hills between late spring and early summer when the rapeseed dyes
a large part of the landscape bright yellow.
 PORTA MURATA  It is the third door present in the boundary
walls, the upper part of it is still visible along the white road that
runs along the walls externally. The burial of the lower part is prob-
ably due to difensive needs, in fact the entire walls were reinforced

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MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE  

with a robust basement to face the advent of new and more pow-
erful firearms.
 PORTA FRANCA OR ROMEA This gateway is the main access to Mon-
teriggioni, facing the direction of Rome and stands below a tower
with a high pointed arch. In the past it very likely had a drawbridge,
that was lowered to bridge a moat that has now disappeared. To the
left of the arch is an inscription commemorating the foundation of
Monteriggioni in the 1220s, while a plaque on the right celebrates
the newly-founded unified state of Italy, in 1860.
 PORTA DI PONENTE  This gateway, facing Florence, stands beside
a tower, and consists in a simple semi-circular arch. Some battle-
ments incorporated in the walling above indicate that the defensive
wall was probably lower. Similar battlements can also be seen in the
facing of the walls on the east side. On the right of the entrance,
which used to have an outer, protective wall, a plaque quotes the
lines from Dante mentioning Monteriggioni.
 MUSEO DELLE ARMI AND ARMATURE  This museum houses faithful
reproductions of medieval and Renaissance weapons and armour.
Accurate models also illustrate siege engines and siege techniques
is use in the same periods. Stand out the armors of the Templar
Knights, who safeguarded the roads traveled by pilgrims going to
Rome along the Via Francigena. Visitors can enjoy the unusual ex-
perience of handling and trying on some weapons and pieces of
armour, situated in special parts of the museum.

Festivals and events at Monteriggioni

 TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE  Piazza Roma 23, tel. 0577 304834,
opening hours: from February 16th to March 31st from 10 am to
1.30 pm and from 2 pm to 4 pm, closed on Tuesdays.
4 MEDIEVAL FESTIVAL This beautiful feast that attracts many vis-
itors to Monteriggioni generally takes place during the first two
weekends of July. The entrance to the village is paid. In these days

256
 Festivals and events at Monteriggioni

the hamlet seems to return to 1200, when it was not just a castle
guarded by a fierce military garrison.
4 THE CHALLENGE OF VALDELSA  This event precedes the medieval
feast. Tournaments see 13th century knights compete and battles
between piker men, halberdiers, infantrymen and arquebusiers
take place. The event takes place in the green area next to the park-
ing lot the “il cipressino”.
4 SLOW TRAVEL FESTIVAL  Is a slow travel festival on foot and by
bike. It lasts three days, generally it’s held in September, and pro-
poses new models of tourism: instead of crowded places, even if un-
doubtedly fascinating, re-launches contemplative tourism based on
slowness, such as stopping to admire a valley or a typical farmhouse,
an abbey in the middle of nowhere, to cherish the setting sun paint
the surrounding area with a thousand colors. Invites you to enjoy the
pleasure of sitting at the table of a rustic trattoria under the shade of
a pergola, enjoying an excellent dish with a nice glass of wine. If you
are interested in this kind of tourism you will find everything very
stimulating, if you are not, try this experience anyway, you might dis-
cover it’s captivating.
4 CHRISTMAS EVE  Torchlight at night from Monteriggioni to Ba-
dia a Isola where the Christmas Mass is celebrated.
BADIA A ISOLA. THE UNKNOWN BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE  It seems impossi-
ble and yet it is so, in Tuscany there are places full of charm ignored
by mass tourism. This is the case of Badia a Isola, located on the Via
Francigena, 4 km far from Monteriggioni. It is gathered around
the Benedectine Abbey of San Salvatore, monastery built at the
beginning of the year 1000. The fields surrounding Badia a Isola
were once a large swamp or bog that accumulated rain water from
Monte Maggio then flowing into the Padule “di Canneto”. Its priv-
ileged position greatly contributed to increasing the power of the
abbey, which enjoyed great prestige throughout the Middle Ages.
The black plague of 1300 decreed the end of the village. In fact, the
monks did not have room to bury the dead, threw them in a ditch

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MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE  

near the well that supplied water to the country contaminating the
water irremediably and infesting the country and its inhabitants.
Inside the beautiful Romanesque Church it is still possible to ad-
mire a fresco where Badia a Isola seems to float in the water.
  Opening hours: from April 1st to September 15th 9.30 am-1 pm
and 2-7.30 pm, from September 16th to October 31st 9.30 am-1.30
pm and 2-6 pm, from November 1st to January 15th 10 am-1.30 pm
and 2-4 pm. Tickets price: € 2 visit of the walls, € 3 museum visit.
Walls + museum visit € 4.

Where to eat
  OSTERIA GELATERIA ANTICO TRAVAGLIO  Piazza Roma 6, tel. 0577
304718, open every day, except Mondays, from 8 am to 7 pm. The
restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner from March 1st
to November 1st. Closed during wintertime, it reopens for lunch
and dinner from Christmas to Epiphany. This restaurant is both
an ice-cream parlor and an excellent restaurant. Absolutely do not
miss the pici with bread crumbs, new oil and bacon, or the pappar-
delle with meat sauce. In general, it offers all the recipes of Sienese
and Tuscan cuisine, absolutely a nice place.
  FUTURA OSTERIA DI BADIA ISOLA Località Badia Isola 7, tel. 0577
301240, open every day, except Mondays and Tuesdays, for lunch and
dinner 12.30 am-2 pm and 7.30-10 pm. Excellent and characteristic
restaurant in the center of the village. Typical Tuscan cuisine with atten-
tion to every minimum detail, excellent ribollita and Florentine steak.
  BAR DELL’ORSO Località Colonna Monteriggioni, tel. 0577
305074, always open from 5 o’clock in the morning until midnight.
Located on the junction at the exit of the Firenze-Siena highway,
this bar is also a good restaurant where you can stop for a complete
meal or a quick snack.
  LA BETTOLA DEI VINANDRI Via Emilio Berrettini 38, tel. 0577 305015,
closes on Saturdays and Sundays for lunch and the second and fourth

258
 The beauties of the Val d’Elsa

Monday of the month for dinner. This restaurant is located at Stag-

gia Senese, about 1 km far from Monteriggioni. This eatery is small
but welcoming; it may seem vaguely alternative but inside you can
breathe a pleasant atmosphere. The two girls who run the place are
likable and nice. They serve excellent first courses, beers, appetizers,
platters with cold cuts and local cheeses and pizzas.

The beauties of the Val d’Elsa

The river Elsa is one of the rivers, although it would be more cor-
rect to call them torrents or streams, which crosses the territory of
Chianti. Its course marks the border between the municipalities of
Barberino, Tavarnelle, Certaldo, Poggibonsi and San Gimignano.
During his run its stream carved out a magnificent valley and now
it flows close to world famous places of great attractiveness (Cert-
aldo, San Gimignano, Volterra). Recently, the Val d’Elsa territory
has experienced a notable development in the flow of tourism, in
addition to the tourist traffic heading to the most famous places.
This is due, in addition to the undoubted beauty of the valley, al-
so to the great work done by corporations, institutions and service
centers, aimed at making known and enhancing the territory and its
peculiarities. Among these a prominent place is occupied by the As-
sociazione Culturale Vitalità and by Contemporary Wine engaged
in the promotion of the products of the territory: they organize art
and wine from Val d’Elsa and Chianti exhibitions in the most beau-
tiful places like Casole d’Elsa, San Gimignano, Volterra, Certaldo.

River Park of the Elsa river

Established in 1997 at the behest of the municipality of Colle Val
d’Elsa and the Tuscany Region, to protect an area that has with-
in it the Caldane, thermal springs already known to the Etruscans
and Romans. The protected area extends from the bridge of San
Marziale di Limoges, in the nearby village of Gracciano, to Pon-
te Spugna which is located in Colle Val d’Elsa. It is a place little
known by tourists (it is frequented mainly by locals) but of great

259
MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE  

beauty. If you find yourself in the surroundings in the sultry sum-

mer days take it in consideration, the place is very beautiful, the
fresh and very clean waters are ideal for a cooling bath. In addition,
the area is covered by two equipped trails that enhance the entire
stretch, are well marked and also contain specific areas dedicated
to parking. Following them will ensure you glimpses and beautiful
views. Starting from the San Marziale Bridge take a path, about
4 km long, from which you can immediately see the Steccaia and
the Collone Reale, the first is a dam that directed the water in the
canals and gores, the other regulated the quantity to be merged.
For centuries this system has fueled the city of Colle, its mills and
other productive activities in the area. Continuing you will come
across fords, rapids, beautiful natural pools where you can obvious-
ly swim, one of which, in my opinion the most beautiful, is formed
by the jump of Diborrato beautiful waterfall of 15 m that forms a
beautiful pond 10 meters deep. If you come from the other side of
the Sponge Bridge, you will cross the left bank of the Elsa. Here
you will find a first ford, that of the horsetails, a kind of Tibetan
bridge that exploits the large boulders that emerge from the water
that has robust ropes at the side to facilitate the crossing. The 2 km
long trail is also equipped with directional ropes, wooden bridges,
directional signs and rest areas. If you want to know more you can
consult the various websites, or call 0577 91211.

260
SAN GIMIGNANO

On the map

261
262
 Historical outline

Historical outline
The history of San Gimignano is very ancient, the first records date
back to the ii-iii century bc. Its foundation should perhaps be as-
cribed to the Etruscans while derives its name from St Jeminianus,
a 4th-century bishop of Modena, who saved the city from Toti-
la appearing miraculously to the invaders terrifying them. It was
a village very small devoted to agriculture and located on the Via
Francigena which connected Lucca and Siena. In medieval times
it owed its prosperity to its position on the Via Francigena, an im-
portant road for commerce and the main pilgrim route to Rome
from northern and central Europe. It was known as “San Gimi-
gnano delle belle Torri” from the tower-houses of its noble fami-
lies, most of which were constructed in the 12th–13th centuries. In
1119 the city, grown considerably, was declared a free municipality
initially ruled by Consuls, and subsequently by a Podestà that was
periodically renewed. For reasons of impartiality he was always
“stranger” and remained in office six months. Despite the bitter
clashes between Guelphs and Ghibellines the town prospered in
agricultural activities and businesses, grew up in the productions
of Greek wine and Vernaccia, saffron, wool and in the activity of
loansharking. By the middle of 1300s it counted 13000 in-habi-
tants and the size of the current historical center was enclosed in
a second circle of walls. This phase of growth stops in the middle
of the xiv century for two reasons: the annexation of the city to
Florence, which took place in the context of the long conflict that
opposed Florence to Siena and the plague of 1348 that decimated
the population. The depopulation, the economic decline and the
loss of political autonomy produced increasingly evident damage,
the Seventeenth Century represents the lowest point in the history
of the town; it became, after the plague of 1631, one of the poorer
places of the Grand Duchy with just 3,000 inhabitants. The eigh-
teenth-century reforms of the Grand Duke of Lorraine reversed
the trend, agriculture and population began to grow again. The re-
discovery of the Middle Ages in the mid nineteenth century will

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lead to the restoration and recovery of the decadent palaces; later,

in our days, San Gimignano was discovered by tourism that leads
every year millions of tourists in the city of towers.

The city today

San Gimignano borders with the towns of Volterra, Colle Val d’El-
sa, Certaldo, Poggibonsi, Gambassi. In a dominant position stands
on a hill overlooking the Valdelsa 334 meters high. From wherever
you arrive, the towers are the first thing you notice. At present there
are thirteen of them but in the fourteenth century it is said that
there were at least 72, one for each wealthy family. This construction
was in fact synonymous of prestige, power and wealth, these three
things were connected and directly proportional to the height of
the buildings, the higher they were, the more the landowning family
was rich. Obviously at that time a real race was unleashed to show
off such virtues. By the end of the xii century towers were flanked
by buildings and they began using bricks to build them. These build-
ings were erected with an architectural style that was not influenced
by what was simultaneusly happening in Florence, Siena, Pisa and
Lucca. This will give life to an original architecture that adds a touch
of diversity and charm to the city. Today San Gimignano has about
8000 inhabitants, lives of agriculture thanks to the production of
Vernaccia, fine white wine d.o.g.c., and a thriving tourist activity,
shares a manufacturing industrial vocation with the Valdelsa. Its his-
toric center has reached intact today and is protected by strict rules
and laws and has been declared a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Useful addresses
 MUNICIPAL POLICE  Via Santo Stefano 3, tel. 0577 990346.
 CARABINIERI  Piazzale Martiri di Montemaggio, tel. 0577 940313.
 FARMACIA DOTTOR BORSINI  Via San Matteo 17, tel. 0577 940397.
 FARMACIA COMUNALE  Piazza della Cisterna, tel. 0577 99 03 69.
 PRO LOCO SAN GIMIGNANO TOURIST INFORMATIONS OFFICE Piazza
Duomo 1, tel. 0577 940008, opening hours: from March 1st to Oc-

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 Festivals and events

tober 3rd, open every day from 10am to 1 pm and from 3 to 7 pm,
from November 1st to February 28th open every day from 10 am to 1
pm and from 2 to 6 pm.
 RECOMMENDED PARKINGS Piazzale Martiri di Montemaggio,
but there are others parkings around the walls, near Porta San
Giovanni.

Festivals and events

4 JANUARY 1  New Year’s Concert. Dei Loggieri Theater.
4 JANUARY 31  Festa di San Gimignano. A festival dedicated to
Gimignano, bishop of Modena, who died in 387 and was the pa-
tron saint of the city. Solemn celebrations in the Basilica of Santa
Maria Assunta. Fairs in Piazza Duomo and Piazza della Cisterna.
4 JANUARY/FEBRUARY  Carnevale di San Gimignano. Parade of alle-
gorical floats, music, confetti and musical groups.
4 MARCH 12  Festa di Santa Fina. Patroness of the city, solemn cele-
brations in the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, fair in Piazza della
Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo.
4 MARCH MONTH  Return Day. The sangimignanesi emigrated to
various parts of Italy find themselves in the city between receptions
and parties. It is a biennial event that takes place in the even years.
4 GOOD FRIDAY  Processione della Santa Croce. Traditional Proces-
sion through the streets of the city, the confreres of the Misericor-
dia participate with the characteristic costumes and headgears.
4 3RD WEEKEND OF JUNE  Festa delle Messi. Historical demonstra-
tion in the streets and squares of the city: it is recalled the harvest
of wheat as it was done in ancient times and what it meant for the
people. Vintage stalls are set up, medieval arts and crafts re-evoked.
Performances by musicians, actors and storytellers. On Sunday
afternoon, a parade of knights, dressed in costume, and knightly
tournament.

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SAN GIMIGNANO 

4 JULY/AUGUST  Accadde d’estate. Series of various shows, grand

operas, prose, ballets, symphonic and chamber music concerts in
Piazza Duomo, cycle of movie screenings at the Parco della Rocca.
4 FIRST SUNDAY OF AUGUST  Festa del ringraziamento. The sangimi-
gnanesi thank the Saint Patroness of the city with solemn func-
tions.
4 FIRST MONDAY OF AUGUST  Fiera di Santa Fina. Stalls and food
stands in Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza Duomo.
4 AUGUST 10  Calici sotto le stelle. Tasting of wines from San Gimi-
gnano in Piazza delle Erbe.
4 AUGUST 28-29 Festa di Sant’Agostino. Liturgical celebration in
the homonymous Church and fair in the streets and city squares.
4 END OF AUGUST/EARLY SEPTEMBER   Sagra del buongustaio. Gas-
tronomic festival at the Campino.
4 SEPTEMBER 8  Festa della Madonna di Pancole. Location: Pan-
cole, 6 km from San Gimignano, at the Sanctuary of 1670. Liturgi-
cal celebrations, food stands and fireworks.
4 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER   San Silvestro fra le Torri. Classical music
concerts at the Teatro dei Loggieri.
4 DECEMBER 31  San Silvestro fra le Torri. End of year party.

What to see
The entrance to the town is at its southern tip, through the Porta San
Giovanni (1262), the finest of the town gates. It is very crowded, but
this should not stop you from looking around. Via San Giovanni pro-
vides a good view of the tall tower of Palazzo del Popolo at the end. It
leads past the Pisan-Romanesque façade of the deconsecrated church
of San Francesco (a little further on the same side you can admire the
beautiful gothic style windows of the former convent of Santa Ca-
terina), and past the 14th-century Palazzo Pratellesi (now the public
library) to the Arco dei Becci, another ancient gate beside several tall

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 What to see

towers, forming part of the first circle of (12th-century) walls. Further

on the road starts to climb: we are near the first city walls. Continuing
for a few meters you will get to Piazza della Cisterna, from here all the
treasures of San Gimignano are within your reach, the Duomo, the
Torre Grossa and the Torre Rognosa, the Museum of Sacred Art, La
Pinacoteca, La loggia del Giudice and much more.
 PIAZZA DELLA CISTERNA  Beyond is the triangular Piazza della
Cisterna, built on a slight slope with a well dating from 1287, and
surrounded by 13th-14th-century palaces, houses and towers. It was
together with Piazza del Duomo the city’s cornerstone. But while
the latter represented the political-religious center of the city, Pi-
azza della Cisterna was the place of the people, here took place the
market, the town festivals, the tournaments. Its appearance dates
back to the thirteenth century and follows the rules given by the
Ghibellino municipality, shows an inverted triangle shape and is
paved in terracotta. Its name derives from the cistern used for the
water supply, it is an octagonal shaped travertine well, the fulcrum
of the square. It appears to you after passing the narrow passage of
the Arco dei Becci, the ancient gate of the first city wall. Next to the
door you can admire the Towers of Becci and Cuganesi, while near
the well there are the most important buildings, Palazzo Razzi, Ca-
sa Salvestrini, now converted into a hotel, but in ancient times it
was also a hospital, on the same side the Cattani houses open the
passage to Piazza del Duomo. On the west side next to the Loggia
del Comune, there are the twin towers of the Ardinghelli and the
Palazzo Pellari tower.
 THE LEGEND OF THE TORRE DEL DIAVOLO  It also overlooks Piazza
della Cisterna, at its side the “Gold alley” so called for the presence
of many goldsmith shops. Located on Palazzo Lupi, it is character-
ized in the upper floor by holes, probably used to insert the sup-
port beams of the wooden galleries. The narrow embrasures and
the protruding beams give it an impregnable appearance, fueling
its legend. This in fact tells that the ancient owner returned from a
long journey to finding the tower higher than he had left it, and not

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having ordered any kind of work and not knowing any explanation,
attributed what happened to the devil. Since then the tower bears
this name.
 DUOMO OR COLLEGIATA DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA  This building
with a bare façade, houses authentic masterpieces of Florentine and
Sienese masters of the period. It is divided into three arches, on the
upper part of the counter-façade is represented the martyrdom of
San Sebastiano by Benozzo Gozzoli, while on the central wall is de-
picted the Last Judgment by Taddeo di Bartolo. On the right wall
there is The Old Testament cycle, presented on three levels, compris-
es 26 episodes from the book of Genesis. It is signed and dated 1367
by Bartolo di Fredi. [Figure 58 Piazza della Cisterna, p. 331].
Cappella di Santa Fina: this beautifully preserved Renaissance
chapel, off the south aisle, was commissioned from Giuliano da
Maiano to honour Fina, a poor and devout girl who bore paralysis
and severe bodily affliction with Christian fortitude. She is the pa-
tron saint of the town. The altar and marble shrine with exquisite
bas-reliefs are by Benedetto da Maiano (1472–77), and the frescoes
decorating the vault and walls of the chapel (c. 1475) are by Dome-
nico Ghirlandaio: (right lunette) St Gregory announcing to Santa
Fina her imminent death (which was to occur on the day of his own
feast), and the Miraculous flowering of violets on her wooden bed;
(left lunette) Funeral of Santa Fina.
 MUSEO DI ARTE SACRA  It’s not very big, so it doesn’t take long to
visit it, but it would be a mistake to skip it. It is adjacent to the Ca-
thedral and preserves a few works, in addition to others from the
churches of the area; inside a wooden panel by Bartolo of Freddi
of the Madonna della Rosa, and the Crucifix by Benedetto from
Maiano, also exhibits numerous and prestigious reliquaries and
fragments of frescoes from the Duomo.
  Opening hours: from April 1st to October 31st from 10 am to
7.30 pm Mondays to Fridays, Saturdays 10 am to 5.30 pm, Sundays
from 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; from November 1st to March 31st, 10 am-

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 What to see

5 pm from Monday to Saturday, Sundays 12.30 am-5 pm. Cost: with

audio guide included € 4, reduced € 2, Museo Arte Sacra € 3.50,
reduced € 2, combined ticket, Duomo + Arte Sacra € 6, reduced € 3.
For informations tel. 0577 286300.
 PALAZZO COMUNALE, PINACOTECA, TORRE GROSSA It also con-
tains the Museo Civico (open 10 am-5 pm, March-Oct 9.30 am-7
pm). On the first floor the hall of the Council or Hall of Dante in
memory of the visit made in 1299 by the poet as ambassador of the
Guelph league. There you can see the wonderful fresco of the Mae-
stà signed and dated 1317 by Lippo Memmi. The other walls were
decorated in the late 13th century with Sienese frescoes of hunting
and tournament scenes, and a depiction of the people of San Gimi-
gnano swearing allegiance to Charles ii of Anjou, King of Sicily.
The visit continues with the Pinacoteca, showing, amongst many
other works, Madonna in Glory with Sts Gregory and Benedict (in
a landscape), one of Pinturicchio’s last works (1512). Continuing
we arrive at the Torre Grossa begun in 1300 and completed in 1311:
from its top you can admire a beautiful view of the city and the
surrounding countryside up to the Apuan Alps.
 THE LOGGIA DEL GIUDICE  The Palazzo del Comune is accessed
by a splendid courtyard decorated with the coats of arms of the
Podestà who exercised their power in San Gimignano. At the end
of the courtyard there is a well similar to that of Piazza della Cis-
terna, which was to serve the water supply. On the right side there
is a portico called Loggia del Giudice, so called because justice was
administered here. The loggia is decorated with splendid frescoes,
one of which represents San Ivone, patron of the lawyers, who ad-
ministers justice in favor of the poor, a work created in 1500 by
Antonino Bazzi called the Sodoma, painter who was inspired by
Leonardo da Vinci. On the long side there is a fresco of the xiv
century depicting the Madonna and Child between San Gregorio
and San Gimignano, finally over the steps is frescoed an allegory
of justice.

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SAN GIMIGNANO 

 VECCHIO PALAZZO DEL PODESTÀ  Sited in Piazza del Duomo fac-

ing the Church, the old Palazzo del Podestà with the Rognosa tower,
used as a prison until 1300. At the bottom there is an entrance hall
with a fresco by Sodoma, Madonna and Child between Saints Nicola
and Gimignano, a door gives access to the Teatro dei Leggieri, built
in 1534 on the remains of an ancient theater and restored in 1794.
When the Podestà moved to new municipal building, it was trans-
formed into a hotel for distinguished guests and then into a public
male school. Next door is another elegant building, the Palazzo Chi-
gi Useppi.
 SAN GIMIGNANO  1300 Via Costarella 3. If you have time available
you should see this particular museum, perfectly reconstructed in
the smallest details, in 1:100 scale, San Gimignano and its 72 towers
as they were in 1300. The exhibition is in a room with soft lights
and sounds that reproduce the life cycle of the days of the maxi-
mum splendor of the city. The entrance, free, is not clearly visible,
is at the end of Via San Giovanni before arriving in Piazza della
Cisterna. At the entrance, surprisingly, is a perfect reproduction of
the fortified town of Monteriggioni. In the museum there is also
the reproduction of the Convent of San Francesco destroyed by the
Florentines in the xvi century.

Where to eat
San Gimignano as well as all tourist places also offers many eateries
to its visitors, some good and other masked traps for the tourist.
We provide you some reliable addresses of trattorias, sub shops,
pizzerias, bars and ice cream parlors that combine the quality of
their products with courtesy of the service.
  TRATTORIA CHIRIBIRI [€€]  Piazza della Madonna 1, tel. 0577 941948,
open every day, except Wednesdays, for lunch and dinner. The restau-
rant is sited in a small square in Via San Giovanni. The restaurant is
small and comfortable, it is located in a subsoil, but also has some out-
door tables; in addition to the cold cuts and cheese platters stand out

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 Bars and ice cream parlors

the game dishes, the homemade “lavagnette” pasta with wild boar ra-
gout and the tagliata with red radicchio. Excellent wines of the house,
the place is small but it is quite popular: we recommend booking.
  TRATTORIA LA LOGGIA  Via Baccanella, tel. 0577 907267, open all
days except Mondays, for lunch and dinner 11.30 am-3.30 pm and
7-9.30 pm. The bar has obviously different opening hours. Qui-
et local just outside San Gimignano, is 5 minutes from Porta San
Giovanni, as well as being a good typical Tuscan trattoria, essentially
cooking local products, it is also a bar. Excellent are the first courses,
in particular the pici with mushrooms and the pappa al pomodoro,
among the main dishes, excellent tagliata.
  DA I’MARIANI  Via Quercecchio 19, tel. 338 2334399, always open
from 11 am to 8 pm, closes during the months of January and Feb-
ruary. Small and cozy place, here you can enjoy delicious sandwich-
es and fantastic platters of cured meats and cheeses, taste truffle
honey. It is a very nice place, the owner is a real good laugh.
RICCA PIZZA  Via San Giovanni 94, tel. 0577 941817, always open
from 10 am to 8 pm. Small restaurant at the entrance of the village,
superb pizza, either the pizza by the slice than the regular one that
can be tasted sitting at a table. The owner has another similar pizze-
ria in Piazza del Duomo, taking Via San Matteo, but in wintertime
the restaurant closes.

Bars and ice cream parlors

  GELATERIA DONDOLI  Piazza della Cisterna 47, tel. 0577 942224.
Despite the location, because sometimes the in bars or restaurants
sited in great tourist attraction places foreign visitors are at risk
to be ripped off, the address that we propose is instead that of an
award-winning ice cream parlor unanimously recognized for the
high quality of its products. If you want to get away from the classic
and experiment with new flavours we suggest the Vernaccia sorbet
and the Santa Fina cream. Not to be missed.

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SAN GIMIGNANO 

  CAFFÈ GIARDINO  Viale Roma, tel. 0577 940854, closed on Sun-

days. The other days open from 7.30 am to 8.30 pm. Nice and qui-
et place ideal for coffee, but also excellent sandwiches are offered.
Close to the walls, a good place to relax.

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CERTALDO ALTO

On the map

273
274
 Historical outline

Historical outline
Very close to San Gimignano, even if it is sited in the province of
Florence, this historic village is located on the hills that separate
the Valdelsa from Valdipesa, at 67 meters of altitude. Its position
has always represented a strategic strong point for the Florentines.
Rich in history and traditions, Certaldo gave birth to the great
Giovanni Boccaccio who is still very present in city life (many lo-
cals and many initiatives bear his name), despite being dead for
more than 700 years. The exact location of the house is ignored,
but it is certain that he owned a house: Boccaccio is known to have
spent part of his later years here, enjoying a peaceful and simple life,
before his death in 1375.
To get the first documented records about Certaldo we must go
back to the xii century, when Federico Barbarossa ceded the first
residential nucleus of the village to the Alberti family. Later it en-
tered under the sphere of influence of Florence becoming the seat
of the Vicariate of Val di Pesa. This imposed the expansion of the
Castrum and the construction of new buildings, including the
Palazzo Pretorio and a new city wall. In fact, the enemies of Flor-
ence did not take long to show up and the city suffered numerous
attacks, the worst was undoubtedly that of 1479 by the militia of
the King of Naples. When the Grand Dukes of Tuscany decided to
suppress the Vicarial seat, 1784, a long period of decadence began
for Certaldo and lasted until the nineteenth century.

Certaldo today
Certaldo borders the towns of San Gimignano, Barberino Val
d’Elsa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Montespertoli, Gambassi and Cas-
telfiorentino. The image that it offers of itself is really suggestive,
the structure of the village is typically medieval, characterized by
narrow streets and the red color of its buildings. It is still today
equipped with three access gates, the Porta Alberti to the north,
the Porta del Sole, which still preserves the Medici coat of arms
to the south and the Porta Rivellino which opens onto the oldest

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CERTALDO ALTO 

part of Certaldo. The city still preserves numerous and valuable

works of art that could secure the name of the city museum. The
Church today deconsecrated of Saints Thomas and Prospero This
simple church from the 1300’s at the end of Via Rivellini, was the
principal religious center of the Castello di Certaldo. Time and
the elements have played their part in its slow transformation,
starting with the collapse of the apse (which now appears as a tri-
umphal arch) due to the unstable hillside. Once the church was
handed over to private parties, resulting in the loss of many of the
frescoes but nonetheless, you can still admire the Tabernacle of the
Condemned Prisoners, by Benozzo Gozzoli and Giusto D’Andrea.
Next to the Church there is the beautiful Palazzo Pretorio, the
most important monument of Certaldo, also contains import-
ant works, and between these two coats of arms of the vicars of
the Della Robbia and the frescoes of the Bazzoli. Going past the
ancient entrances you get to Piazza S.S. Jacopo and Filippo with
the beautiful church of the beginning of the fourteenth century,
containing valuable works of art, including a terracotta altarpiece
depicting the Madonna della Neve created by Della Robbia and
the cenotaph of Giovanni Boccaccio with an epitaph desired by
the same writer. In the same square we find the beautiful museum
of the Sacred Art. Continuing towards Via Boccaccio we find the
fourteenth-century Palazzo Giannozzi, which mainly hosts cul-
tural artistic events, among which the most unique is the Chiodo
museum. In Via Boccaccio there is the building that hosted the
great writer in the last years of his life. In Piazza S.S. Annunziata
there is the Palazzo Stiozzi Ridolfi of the xiii century, it stands
out for its towers, crenellated walls and the façade with windows
and loggias. Today, restored, it is an important exhibition space.
Nowadays, Certaldo is a lively agricultural and industrial center
and can boast a perfectly preserved historic center called Certaldo
Alto or Castello, which joins today the lower part that began to
develop around the xvi century, called Certaldo Bassa.

276
 To go to Certaldo Alto

To go to Certaldo Alto
It is best to park in Certaldo Basso, from Piazza Boccaccio leaves ev-
ery 15 minutes a funicular railway that will take you to Piazza Alber-
ti, Certaldo Alto. Opening hours from April 15th to October 15th
from 7.30 am to 1.00 pm. From October 16th to April 14th from 7.30
am to 7.30 pm. Cost of single tickets € 1.50 per person, return € 1.20.

Useful addresses
 MUNICIPAL POLICE  Via Borgo Garibaldi 37, tel. 0571 668547.
 CARABINIERI BORGATA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI  tel. 0571 665874.
 FARMACIE RIUNITE  Piazza Boccaccio 46, tel. 0571 668150.
 TOURIST INFORMATION. IAT CERTALDO  Palazzo Pretorio, Piazzetta
del Vicariato, tel. 0571 656721- 0571 661219, open from April to
October 9.30 am-1.30 pm and 2.30-7.30 pm, info@sistemamu-
sealecertaldo.it.

Festivals and events

4  APRIL Sagra del Cinghiale (Boar Festival). Multi-purpose cen-
ter, lunches and dinners during the festival with dishes based on
wild boar and other Tuscan specialties.
4  MAY Jazz e baccelli ( Jazz and pods). Fiano, Piazza De Gasperi,
Jazz Music, cured meats and cheeses accompanied by Tuscan wine,
the event lasts three days.
4  MAY-EARLY JUNE Sagra del pesce. Multi-purpose center, lunches
and dinners for all festival long.
4  JUNE Fieri di Boccaccio. Market for the city streets.

4  JULY 3 Festadi San Tommaso Patrono di Certaldo (Feast of St.

Thomas Patron of Certaldo). Religious services, market in Piazza
Boccaccio, music and entertainment.
4  JULY Fiano in festa. Three days of music, food stands and candy
drive.

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CERTALDO ALTO 

4  JULY Mercantia. It is an international street art festival that

takes place in Certaldo Alto in July. There are more than 100 shows
per night with music, theatre, performances, circus, etc.
4  SEPTEMBER Festa della Beata Giulia. Procession through the
city streets during which the remains of the Blessed are lugged
around contained in an urn.
4  OCTOBER Festa dell’olio e del vin nuovo (New oil and wine par-
ty). Cooperative cellar.
4  NOVEMBER  Festa del cioccolato. Chocolate Festival.
4  EVERY MONTH In the home of Giovanni Boccaccio periodic read-
ing cycles of the Decameron and other works by the great man of
letters.

What to see
 SAN TOMMASO AND PROSPERO DISSACRATE CHURCH  It was the
oldest church in the country, dating back to the beginning of the
xiii century. Because of the landslide, it had already begun to ruin
in the mid-1500s. In 1788 it was abandoned and later leased to an
earthenware merchant who used it as a laboratory and warehouse.
Use that has largely ruined the frescoes on the walls. In the xix
century it returns to public ownership, the frescoes and the roof
are restored. The one-nave interior has no altars and furnishings.
At the center of the Church is the Tabernacle of the Condemned
1464-1465, by Benozzo Gozzoli and Giusto d’Andrea.
 PALAZZO PRETORIO  This former residence of the Alberti fam-
ily is the most important monument of Certaldo, its red brick
façade surmounted by merlons resulting from a restoration of the
last century. Its surface is covered with plaques and coats of arms
of the Vicars, two of them were made by Della Robbia. On the
right there is a clock tower of 1484 and the loggia of the Vicari-
ate, a staircase leads to a doorway, passing it we enter a hall with
an irregular shape. On the left there is the Cavaliere room, now

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 What to see

used as a ticket office where we can see a characteristic safe and

the Virgin with the Child, a beautiful painting by Pier Frances-
co Fiorentino. On the right the Hall of Audiences and the Civil
Prison where the vicars administered justice, now used as a mu-
seum. On the right also there is the small and pretty Cappellina
with the walls painted with painstaking frescoes and with many
coats of arms similar to those of the Loggette. Leaving the Cap-
pellina, you come to an internal courtyard and then you enter a
hall, now used for conferences, with walls frescoed by paintings
deteriorated by time. After passing the hall you come to a court-
yard with a well, the stairs on the left lead to the Vicario’s apart-
ments, if instead we go down the stairs on the opposite side you
access the women’s Prisons, then used as a kitchen, even here the
walls present frescoes ruined by time, between these perhaps an
Annunciation.
• Torrione: you get there after passing the umpteenth courtyard,
go up and admire a wonderful view of Certaldo and the sur-
rounding countryside.
• The apartments of the Vicar: if you climb the stairs of the
courtyard from which you also access the prisons, we arrive on
the second floor inhabited by the Vicar, here the rooms, used as
a museum, follow one another continuously. It is not possible
not to be dazzled by the wonderful frescoes of Pier Francesco
Fiorentino and Benozzo Gozzoli and many other so-called mi-
nor artists, do not forget to admire the stupendous Renaissance
penitent Magdalene.
 GIOVANNI BOCCACCIO HOUSE  It is located in the homonymous
street. This house, transformed into a museum, is the one where
Giovanni Boccaccio is presumed to be born, 1313. Rebuilt in great
part after the Second World War, it has inside a large fresco at-
tributed to Pietro Benvenuti (1862), and some rare examples of
shoes of the xv century found during the restoration works. The last
restoration of 2007 has given back to visitors the opportunity to ac-
cess the tower that allows you to wander with the eye on the nearby

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countryside, the towers of San Gimignano and the Tuscan-Emilian

Apennines up to the Apuan Alps.
  Opening hours: from April 1st to October 31st open every day
from 9.30 am to 1.30 pm and from 2 pm to 7 pm.
 MUSEO DI ARTE SACRA  The Museum of Sacred Art is housed in
an ancient Augustinian convent, dating back to 1400s, carefully re-
stored, was inaugurated on 30 June 2001 and is situated between
the Palazzo Pretorio and the house of Boccaccio. Preserves the
works coming from the Vicariate of the Valdelsa Fiorentina col-
lected starting from 1963. Inside a Romanesque cloister acts as a
link between the Church and the convent. The museum contains
many valuable works of art, paintings, liturgical furnishings ar-
ranged in special sections in chronological order. Exhibition of
paintings datable between the xiii and xvi century, among these:
Madonna on the throne with Jesus between San Lorenzo and San-
ta Margherita painting by the master of the Bigallo (1240-1245),
the triptych of the Madonna with Jesus between San Pietro and San
Romolo attributed to Ugolino of Nerio 1315-1320, Madonna on the
throne with Jesus and two Angels by Meliore di Jacopo (1270-1275).
The most striking work, however, is the monumental 13th-century
Crucifix, with Christ shown triumphant with His eyes wide open.
Then there are the three halls of the goldsmiths, that expose pre-
cious and ancient objects coming from the church of San Lazzaro
in Lucardo commissioned by the family of the Gianfigliazzi. This
section shows various liturgical objects, censers, monstrances, rel-
iquary busts and other things dating from the xiii century until
1736. The Hall of the vestments contains sacred vestments finely
worked and embroided, dating back to the xviii century. Hall of
the company, here are exposed 17th century paintings and sculp-
tures from the museum collection. For information on visits, please
contact the number 0571 656824, or contact the site Info@conven-
toagostiniani.it.
 CHURCH S.S. JACOPO AND FILIPPO This small Romanesque
church built between the xii and xiii centuries, has a simple brick

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façade from the 13th century, and is located halfway between the
Casa di Boccaccio and the Palazzo Pretorio, is also the access to
the Museum of Sacred Art. At the center of the only nave is the
tomb of Giovanni Boccaccio, marked by a bas-relief by the sculp-
tor Mario Moschi inspired by the first known portrait of the poet,
painted in the xv century by Andrea del Castagno and exhibited
at the Uffizi in Florence. At a short distance is buried another fig-
ure dear to the Certaldesi, La Beata Giulia della Rena, 1319-1367,
who lived and died in the nearby convent and to which already in
1372 was dedicated an altar for which Antonia, a nun according to
some daughter by Paolo Uccello, realized the predella at the end of
the xv century with the Stories visible today on the high altar. But
the most important work is probably the Christ of Petrognano, an
imposing wooden sculpture of more than two meters, probably be-
fore the xii century, perhaps coming from a Church of Semifonte,
the city in the municipality of Barberino Val d’Elsa destroyed by
the Florentines in 1202 or by the nearby Sant’Appiano.
  Opening hours: in wintertime from 10.30 am to 2.30 pm, in
summertime from 10.30 am to 5.30 pm.
  PALAZZO GIANNOZZI Located between Piazza S.S. Annunziata
and the Porta del Sole, host this unique exhibition that collects
nails of all ages and all measures, tools and utensils related to the
rural culture. This collection was created over decades of activity
by Giancarlo Masini, an artist, carpenter, storyteller and designer
who had his workshop in Certaldo Alto. To his memory was titled
in 1994 the Golden Nail, prize awarded each year to the symbolic
artist of Mercantia, the event that takes place every year in the sum-
mer along the streets of Certaldo Alto from Wednesday to Sunday,
attracting many artists, jugglers and people in the village. The mu-
seum is part of the city museum system, therefore it can be visited
as the other museums way, single museum ticket cost € 1.
 MULTIPLE ENTRANCE TO MUSEUMS  There is a chance to visit two
or even three museums on one ticket, it’s a convenient opportunity
to catch, the museums are interesting and their close proximity is

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a reason more to make a multiple visit. Cost: entrance to Palazzo

Pretorio and Casa Boccaccio full price € 4, reduced € 3, entrance
to three museums Palazzo Pretorio/Casa Boccaccio/Museum of
Sacred Art, € 6 full price, reduced € 3.
 CAMPING PANORAMA DEL CHIANTI Via Marcialla 349, tel. 0571
669334. Although we have not reported any accommodation in
the municipality of Certaldo, we make an exception for three rea-
sons: campsites are scarce in Chianti, this is in a strategic position
and allows fans of outdoor holidays to visit easily San Gimignano,
Barberino Val d’Elsa, Tavarnelle and the rest of Chianti, including
the cities of Florence and Siena. Third reason is a nice and com-
fortable campground, equipped with beautiful pitches, for those
who do not have tents provides rental tents, has a nice pool and a
nice bar, rents scooters (Vespine) and bikes, moreover, what’s not
despicable, is in a nice place.

Where to eat in Certaldo Alto

  OSTERIA DA CHICHIBIO Via Boccaccio 4, tel. 0571 652504, always
open from 10 am to 6 pm, in wintertime closes on Wednesdays.
Small restaurant next to the Palazzo Pretorio, typical Tuscan cui-
sine, some outdoor tables in good season, excellent both the ribol-
lita and the pici and mixed platters, efficient and friendly waiters:
the owner congeniality represents an added value. Honest prices.
  DA MESSER BOCCACCIO  Via Boccaccio 35, tel. 0571 665122, closed
on Mondays from April to September, open for lunch and dinner
the other days, from October to March, closed on Mondays, Tues-
days and Wednesdays, open for lunch and dinner the other days.
Small quaint local in the heart of Certaldo alto, medieval style en-
vironment, excellent Tuscan cuisine and honest prices, in summer
some outdoor tables.
  OSTERIA LA SALETTA Via Roma 4, Certaldo Basso, tel. 0571
668188, always open for lunch and dinner. Excellent typical restau-

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 Eating out of Certaldo

rant, serving a fantastic onion soup and excellent risotto with Pien-
za cheese, good tagliata.

Eating out of Certaldo

  PIZZERIA IL FIANO  Via Firenze 94, tel. 0571 669029, open for
dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. This small, crowded, fantastic
pizzeria is in the village of Fiano not far from Certaldo, but also
near Marcialla. Here you can enjoy pizza, definitely one of the best
in the area, for all tastes and with all the ingredients, there is also
that with strawberries, delicious, prices more than fair, to try. Ab-
solutely necessary on weekends, the reservation.

Bars and ice cream parlors

  CAFFETTERIA BAR BOCCACCIO Via Boccaccio 11, tel. 0571 665389.
Good coffee bar in Certaldo Alto in the homonymous square.
Tasty ice cream, in this place you can also make snacks.
  GELATERIA BAZZANI Via Agnoletti 42, 0571 662424. Excellent
ice cream / pastry shop in Certaldo Basso, a relaxing place for a
break.

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 VOLTERRA

On the map

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285
VOLTERRA 

Historical outline
Closed within mighty walls, set on a hill 545 meters high above sea
level, Volterra, the ancient Velathri, dominates and divides the val-
leys of the rivers Cecina and Era. Its isolated position, far from the
sea and the main urban settlements, has favored the growth of its
strategic importance over the centuries. Rich in history and culture,
still shown today by the monuments that it preserves. Its buildings in
gray stone, the city walls, the palaces of the center and the magnifi-
cent Piazza dei Priori, still bear witness to its ancient splendor. The
earliest human settlements date back to the Neolithic, but it is only
from the vii century bc that one can speak of an inhabited area. Ve-
lathri was then one of the main centers of Etruscan civilization, with
a population estimated at around 25,000, a lot if you think that to-
day’s population is 11000 inhabitants. Although the city was closed
within its walls, it was repeatedly conquered, but managed to main-
tain some independence until iii bc when it was conquered by the
Romans. Traces of that period can be seen in the Acropolis and in
the Roman Theater. Then came the Heruli, the Goths and the Lom-
bards who ruled it up to the viii century. It gained some importance
under the Lombards and was for a time the residence of the Lom-
bard kings. In the 1200s, however, Volterra assumed the appearance
of a city with the establishment of a municipal structure and the con-
struction of monuments that still characterize it, the new city walls,
the Palazzo del Popolo. Although it is located in the province of
Pisa, Volterra is about 16 km from San Gimignano easily reachable
in a short time.

Useful addresses
 TOURIST INFORMATION Piazza dei Priori 19/20, tel. 0588 87257,
open all year round at 9.30 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm. You can buy here
the Volterra Card. Valid 72 hours allows you to visit: Palazzo dei Pri-
ori, Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, Pinacoteca, Alabaster Ecomuseum,
Acropolis, Roman Theater. € 14 full price, family ticket € 22. Valid for

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 Festivals and events

2 adults + 2 children under 16, € 12 reduced, boys 6-16 years, members

tci and Coop.
 MUNICIPAL POLICE  Piazza dei Priori 9, tel. 0588 86 50.
 CARABINIERI  Via dell’Ortaccio 4, tel. 0588 92300.
 FARMACIA CERRI  Via Giacomo Matteotti 56, tel. 0588 86043.

Festivals and events

Many events are organized in the city during the year, some of
which are not reported here, we recommend to those wishing to
know local customs and traditions to inquire at the local tourist
office.
4  MAY 13/14  Historical re-enactment and craft market.
4  JUNE 1  Cena aspettando il Palio (Dinner waiting for the Palio).
4  JUNE 2  Palio del Cero.
4  JUNE 4  Festa di San Giusto.
4  JUNE 4  Festa del Patrono.
4  JUNE 9-10-11  Festa dello Sport.
4  JUNE 17  Festa dello Sport.
4  JULY 1  Galà di danza in Piazza (Dance Gala on the Square).
4  JULY 7-8-9  Le streghe di Volterra Festival (The witches of Volt-
erra Festival).
4  JULY 13-20-17  Shopping sotto le stelle (Shopping under the stars).
4  JULY 31-AUGUST 14  Mercatino Emergency.
4  AUGUST 13  Artigiani in bianco, antiques market.
4  AUGUST 17  Sbaracco, the attics are emptied
4  SEPTEMBER 17  Raduni auto storiche (Historical car rallies).
4  OCTOBER 5-8  Festeggiamenti Patronali.

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4  OCTOBER 22  Palio dei Caci.

4  THIRD AND FOURTH SUNDAY OF AUGUST  Volterra AD 1398. It’s a
medieval festa. You go back in time of 600 years, the inhabitants
are dressed in the clothes of the period, an authentic show.
4  VOLTERRAGUSTO  It takes place mid-March, late October and
early November. It is a festival of local products such as cheeses,
white truffles, olive oil and chocolate.

What to see
 PIAZZA DEI PRIORI  Center and heart of the city surrounded by
elegant buildings, in ancient times was simply called “square”, later
was called Piazza Olmo, due to the presence of an elm tree under
which the council met before the construction of the Palace of the
Priors, of course. The centre of political life in Volterra has always
been, in the summer, the venue for artistic and cultural events and
for the weekly market in Volterra. In the square coexist bar and
cafés with ancient noble palaces, and in addition to the mentioned
Palazzo dei Priori stand out the Palazzo Pretorio with the Torre del
Porcellino, the Palazzo vescovile. The latter built as a grain house
(because in ancient times it was a grain warehouse) then became a
bishop’s seat after 1472 when the old Bishop Palace was demolished
to build the Maschio. Palazzo Incontri, current seat of the Cassa di
Risparmio di Volterra, was the seat of the Seminary after the Coun-
cil of Trento until the end of the 18th century. Palazzo Monte Pio,
at the beginning of the century had conversion works to harmo-
nize it with the other medieval buildings of the square, currently
results a set of towers of the thirteenth century well visible from the
rear Vicolo Mazzoni.
 PALAZZO DEI PRIORI  Built by maestro Riccardo in 1239, it pres-
ents the shape of a parallelepiped. The façade is distinguished by
three rows of mullioned windows and the many coat of arms of the
magistrates who ruled Volterra when it passed under the dominion

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 What to see

of Florence in 1472. On the building stands a pentagonal tower,

renovated after the earthquake of 1846 by architect Mazzei who
made some changes even in the buildings facing the square. Inside
decorated by the coats of arms of the Florentine captains, In the
first-floor Sala del Consiglio Comunale (admission when not in
use) is a fresco of the Annunciation by Jacopo di Cione (1383), and
to the right, the Marriage Feast at Cana by Donato Mascagni (early
17th century).
Hall of the Major Council. In the room decorated with pre-
cious writings and coats of arms of the xix century, the fresco
on canvas of the Annunciation between Saints Cosma and Dami-
ano, San Giusto and Ottaviano by Jacopo di Cione called Orcag-
na stands out and the canvas of the xvi century that depicts the
Wedding at Cana by Donato Mascagni. The adjoining hall of the
Council was originally used for the audiences and the councils of
the Priors, today it hosts the meetings of the city council. Among
the works in the room are the precious chairs, an inlaid work of a
Sienese artists of the xv century coming from Monte Pio, a panel
depicting Persio Flacco by Cosimo Daddi, a monochrome fresco
depicting Saint Jerome, two canvases depicting the adoration of the
Magi by Giandomenico Ferretti xviii century and a painting of
San Girolamo attributed to Luca Signorelli.
  March 14th to November 1st, 10 am-5.30 pm, November 2-30,
10 am-4.30 pm, December 1st to January 8th 10 am-6 pm, from Jan-
uary 9th to March 13th 10 am-4.30 pm, special openings: December
25th from 3.30 pm to 7.30 pm, January 1st at 12 am-6 pm. Cost: € 5,
reduced, boys 6-16 years, over 60, coop and tci members.
 PALAZZO PRETORIO  Palazzo Pretorio is surmounted by the Torre
del Porcellino, dating from the 13th century, which derives its name
from the sculpted boar on a bracket to the right of the top window.
The vertical emphasis of the building is underlined by the narrow
windows flanking the tower. Consists of the two buildings in Pi-
azza dei Priori that host the Courts, the Praetura and the Torre del
Podestà with the two wings that flank it. In the communal era it

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was home to the Podestà and the Capitani del Popolo. The two
buildings rise on the areas previously occupied by the houses of the
Belforti, Allegretti, Topi, Affricanti, Magalotti and Malatragi fam-
ilies. In the interior there are isolated coats of arms and attached,
but in this context two figures of wild boar stand out, one in the
lower part roughly carved, the other that protrudes from above on
a double shelf. At first some people thought that these figures rep-
resented giant rats because in the square the Topi family owned
many buildings. The population of Volterra called them piglets,
however, this gave the tower its name, one of the oldest in the city,
which in fact is called Torre del Porcellino. Currently, the building
houses offices of the state police and municipal police, so it can not
be visited.
 DUOMO DI VOLTERRA OR CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA Pi-
azza del Duomo. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was built
in 1120 on a pre-existing church dedicated to Santa Maria. It was
expanded in the second half of the century on a project by Nicola
Pisano, modified during the sixteenth century and was the subject
of restoration in the biennium 1842-1843. The façade, with two or-
ders, has a tympanum adorned with a blind loggia, marble portal and
large rose window. On the left the Chapel of the Addolorata extends
the façade with elegant single-lancet windows, while on the bottom
rises the quadrangular bell tower rebuilt in 1493 and subsequently
lowered for reasons of stability. The interior is Roman in shape with a
Latin cross with three naves, the result of various interventions made
over the centuries. The drawings of the six altars that make up the
two Montecatini stone aisles date back to the early decades of the
sixteenth century, formed by a large coffered arch with festoons of
flowers and central fruit, coats of arms and emblems. In 1580-1584
the bishop Serguidi made touch up and covered the capitals of the
twenty-two columns with stucco, the coffered ceiling was carried
out with figures of saints and noble coats of arms, designed and put
in place by Francesco Capriani, sculpted by Jacopo Pavolini from
Castelfiorentino and painted from Fulvio della Tuccia. The works

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 What to see

of the nineteenth and twentieth century gave the Duomo its present
appearance, in particular with the last works the fifteenth-century
organs were eliminated and today’s gothic form was given to the
transept. Above the high altar is the beautiful Ciborium by Mino da
Fiesole (1471), who is also the author of two angels placed above the
two columns of the xii century. Behind the altar is the chapel with
the Coro Ligneo (1404). The many chapels contain relics and valu-
able works, among them: the fifteenth-century wooden sculpture
by Francesco di Valdambrino, the canvases by Domenico Zampieir,
known as Domenichino, by Domenico Curradi and Jacopo Chi-
menti called “l’Empoli” depicting San Carlo in prayer before the Vir-
gin. Among these valuable works stands out the polychrome wooden
group of the Deposition 1288, a masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture
by an unknown sculptor from Volterra. The Chapel of Our Lady of
Sorrows, has two niches containing painted terracotta scenes of the
Adoration of the Magi and the Nativity (c. 1474), attributed to Luca
and Andrea della Robbia, the latter with a charming frescoed back-
ground by Benozzo Gozzoli. On the left aisle stands the pergamum
of the xii century, remodeled in 1584 and probably the work of the
Pisan sculptor Bonamico.
  Opening hours: every day from 8.30 to 12.30 am and 3 to 6 pm,
Friday at 4 pm. For information, contact the tourist consortium,
tel. 058 886 099.
 BATTISTERO DI SAN GIOVANNI  It was built in the second half of
the thirteenth century, stands in front of the Duomo and is char-
acterized by its octagonal shape. The architect was inspired by
Nicola Pisano, the side facing the Cathedral is coated with bands
of white and green marble while the capitals of the columns and
the doorjambs are sculpted with motifs that reproduce leaves, fig-
ures of animals and human heads. Completes the façade a single
lancet window and in the architrave heads of Jesus, Mary and the
Apostles. Inside six large niches and eight single lancet windows
frame a space where the dome of the early sixteenth century does
not line up with the columns in the corners of the octagon. In the

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VOLTERRA 

baptistery are kept some important works of the sixteenth centu-

ry, among these: sculptures of the altar designed and decorated by
Mino da Fiesole and carved by Jacopo and Franco di Alessandro
Balsimelli da Settignano (1500). Above the altar a table illustrating
the Ascension work of Niccolò Cercignani from Pomarance, 1591.
In the niche on the right is an ancient baptismal font by Andrea
Sansovino (1502), the five marble reliefs represent: Faith, Hope,
Charity, the Baptism of Christ and justice. The other majestic bap-
tismal font in the center by Giovanni Vaccà, 1759, was donated by
the prelate Francesco Selvatico dei conti Guidi.
  Opening hours: see Duomo.
 PINACOTECA DI VOLTERRA  Via dei Sarti 1. Its origins date back to
1842, when Luigi Fedra Inghirami, worker of the cathedral, began
to collect some paintings in the Chapel of San Carlo, annexed to the
Cathedral, coming from abandoned Churches and monasteries cit-
izens. In 1905, following a proposal by Corrado Ricci, a municipal
gallery was built inside the Palazzo dei Priori, where the most signif-
icant works collected are collected. Since 1982 the Galleria Pittorica,
or Pinacoteca is housed in the rooms of Palazzo Minucci Solaini, a
beautiful building of the late fifteenth century, attributed to Anto-
nio da Sangallo the Elder The Pinacoteca hosts a collection mainly
of paintings by Tuscan artists, arranged chronologically and well la-
belled also in English. The gallery’s most famous work, the Deposi-
tion by Rosso Fiorentino, signed and dated 1521, is usually considered
one of the masterpieces of Florentine Mannerist art, although it has
been heavily restored. Other works include a magnificent polyptych
(signed and dated 1411) and the Madonna of the Rose, both by Tad-
deo di Bartolo; two polychrome wood statues of the Virgin and the
Angel Gabriel by Francesco da Valdambrino (c. 1410); a Nativity and
predella scenes, signed and dated 1470 by Benvenuto di Giovanni;
an altarpiece of Christ in Glory Worshipped by Sts Benedict, Romuald,
Attinia and Greciniana, in a lovely landscape (1492), by Domenico
del Ghirlandaio, and two works (both dated 1491) by Luca Signo-
relli: the Annunciation is particularly beautiful. The second floor has

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 What to see

three works by Niccolò Circignani; and a Madonna with Saints by Il

Volterrano (Baldassare Franceschini), one of the very few paintings
in town by its most famous 17th-century artist.
  Opening hours: from March 14th to November 1st, 09 am-7
pm; from 2 to 30 November 10 am-4.30 pm; from December 1st
to January 8th from 10 am to 6 pm; from January 9th to March
13th 10 am-4.30 pm, special openings December 25th 3.30-7.30 pm.
1 January at 12 am-6 pm, tel. reservations 0588 86347. Cost: € 8
whole, reduced 6-16 years and groups 15 people € 6. The art gallery
is included in the Volterra Card circuit.
 MUSEO DI ARTE SACRA  Via Roma 13. This small but interesting
museum is housed in the premises of the ancient rectory, today
Palazzo Vescovile, exhibits sculptures in wood and marble, the
latter the only survivors of the monuments of the fourteenth cen-
tury erected in the Cathedral. Paintings, sacred vestments coming
from the Cathedral and from the churches of the Diocese. The
Pisan influence is evident in the panels of the presbytery enclosure
and of the old main altar of the Cathedral. The most important
fourteenth-century marbles are the seven rectangular panels that
illustrate the life of Saints Vittorio and Vittore attributed to Agos-
tino di Giovanni and Agnolo della Ventura. Notable are the four
circular medallions with the busts of Saints Giusto, Clemente, Ot-
taviano and Vittore executed in bas-relief and attributed to Tino
di Camaino and the Roman sarcophagus dating back to the early
centuries ad and used as the sepulcher of the Bishop Goffredo in
1037. Beautiful, among others, the paintings representing the altar-
piece of Ulignano by Daniele Ricciarelli, 1545, and the altarpiece
of Villamagna del Rosso Fiorentino, painted in 1521, the same year
in which he performed the most famous deposition of the Cross
exposed to the Pinacoteca. In the showcases dedicated to sacred
objects are exposed, leather cases, crosses, thuribles (incense con-
tainers) and reliquaries, are worth noting: the beautiful reliquary
bust of San Ottaviano in embossed silver and gilded copper by An-
tonio del Pollaiolo. A reliquary bust of San Vittore Martire by An-

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tonio da Volterra and the beautiful double-sided silver cross with

chiselled drawings and twelve enamelled figures. A stoup in marble
and alabaster (1575). And finally of the precious manuscripts, two
choral books with Gregorian notation and beautiful miniatures of
1299 performed by Friar Agostino and six choral books, called Sod-
erini, with beautiful miniatures on the front page, donated to the
proposed Antonio Zeno Cathedral between 1508 and 1510 for to
honor the Volterran bishops Francesco Soderini and his nephew
Giuliano.
Currently the museum is closed for renovation works, for in-
formation contact the tourist information office, tel. 0588 89620.
 MUSEO ETRUSCO GUARNACCI  Via don Minzoni 15. Housed in
the palace of the same name, the Guarnacci museum is one of the
oldest public museums in Europe and one of the most important
museums dedicated to the Etruscans. In fact, in its interior there are
impeccably exhibited many finds from the Etruscan and Roman
periods, coming exclusively from Volterra and its surroundings,
testifying its past. It was inaugurated in 1761 by Mario Guarnacci,
who offered to the city his great archaeological collection, the re-
sult of years and years of research. The donation includes over 500
volumes, finds from the Hellenistic and archaic period, hundreds
of funeral urns made from tufa and alabaster. Not to be missed:
the bronze statuette Ombra della notte, the famous long and slim
figure, the cover of the cinerary urn of the 1st century ad known as
the Urn of the spouses sculpture of an elderly couple lying on a bed
and the Stele of Avile Tite.
  Opening hours: from the second Monday of March to Novem-
ber 4th open every day from 9.00 am to 7.00 pm, from November
5th to the second Sunday of March, open every day from 10 am
to 4.30 pm, closed Christmas and New Year’s Day. Cost: € 8 full.
Reduced: students, groups with at least 20 people, over 60 years
€ 5. Family ticket, 4 people € 18. The museum is included in the
Volterra card.

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 What to see

 ECOMUSEO DELL’ALABASTRO  Piazza Minucci 2. Walking through

the streets of Volterra you will see almost everywhere shop windows
with objects of alabaster, the processing of this material is typically
Volterran and dates back to the Etruscan times. Many items to buy,
boxes, sculptures, frames, dishes, etc., all handmade by local arti-
sans who still follow the ancient working methods. If you want to
know also the history, which is hidden behind this typical material,
go and see the museum dedicated to it. Set up inside the homon-
ymous and beautiful medieval tower, this interesting museum will
introduce you to the alabaster path, from excavation to processing.
You will be able to see the recreated workshops of the artisans and
the prestigious collection of sculptures, over three hundred, in ala-
baster from the Etruscan period up to today.
  Timetable: from March to October every day 9 am-7 pm,
from November to February 10 am-4.30 pm Cost: € 8 full price.
Reduced: over 60, boys 6-16 years, groups over 20 people € 6. The
museum is included in the Volterra card.
 THE ACCESS DOORS  The massive city walls have six access gates,
all very old, ranging from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century.
Porta dell’Arco is the oldest and best preserved, is almost intact and
boasts details from the fifth century as the three-headed decora-
tions. Porta San Francesco still has traces of the original frescoes,
while from Porta San Felice you can admire beautiful views of the
surrounding countryside.
 FORTEZZA MEDICEA  From the top of its position the mighty
Medicea Fortress seems to control Volterra and the surrounding
countryside. The large building is also visible from miles away and
is part of the profile of the hill below which is the city of Volter-
ra. The Fortress was built in 1474, two years after the victory of
Florence over Volterra following the battle fought for the control
of mines of potassium alum, an important mineral used in textile
production. The fortress had a dual purpose, on one hand it had to
protect the city, on the other it had to keep it under control and

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prevent any revolts against the new lords. The building consists
of two parts: the old Rocca, built in 1342 by the Duke of Athens
Gualtieri vi di Brienne, governor-king of Florence, subsequently
modified by Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the New Fortress, connect-
ed with the old, also built by Lorenzo il Magnifico in 1475. Today
it houses a medium security prison, for this reason it cannot be vis-
ited, with rare exceptions, and therefore it is necessary to admire its
majesty from the outside. On special occasions the Fortress turns
into a restaurant open to the public, it is a rehabilitation project for
detainees who become chefs for one evening, the project is called
“galeotte dinners” and in addition of taking care of the kitchen, in-
mates also take care of the service at the tables. Next to the fortress
is Porta Selci, leads inside the city through a simple arch, it was
built in the 16th century to replace the old door destroyed with the
construction of the new fortress.
 ACROPOLI ETRUSCA  It is located at the top of a hill near the Medi-
ci Fortress and the Enrico Fiumi Park. The area includes buildings
from different periods, from the Etruscan to the Roman and me-
dieval, all made for religious purposes. There are the remains of a
cistern for the collection of rainwater, an Augustan pool and two
temple-shaped buildings called A and B: the first rectangle dates
back to the ii century bc, while the second is of the iii century ad.
 Opening hours: in winter, weekends at 10 am-4 pm; from
March to October: every day 10.30 am-5.30 pm. Admission: € 5
full, reduced € 3, the museum is included in the Volterra card.
 ANFITEATRO ROMANO AND AREA ARCHEOLOGICA Via Francesco
Ferrucci. It is just outside the medieval walls near the Porta Fioren-
tina, built in the 1st century ad The amphitheater stands on an an-
cient Etruscan site and is one of the best preserved and most beauti-
ful in Italy. Behind the theater are the remains of the Roman baths
and the Roman forum, 4th century bc. The site was used in the
Middle Ages as a dump. It was discovered in 1951 following archae-
ological excavations. In winter, when the area is closed, entering
from the door inside the walls, turning right you can admire, for

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 Where to eat

free, the entire area from the terrace above Via Lungo le Mura del
Mandorlo. From there you can see the vaulted corridors that con-
nect the stage behind the scenery flat and the covered area behind
the theater where more than 2000 spectators met during the break.
  Opening hours: from March to mid-November every day from
10.30 am to 5.30 pm, in winter: open only on weekends from 10 am
to 4 pm.
 PALAZZO VITI  Via dei Sarti 41. It is one of the most beautiful
private residences in Italy, its 12 rooms open to the public, con-
taining beautiful furniture, paintings, porcelain and alabaster
collections and other objects that represent Italian, European
and Eastern art from 1400 to 1900. Everything has remained in-
tact, the palace was object of the visit of princes and sovereigns.
The director Luchino Visconti has shot some of his films in the
building. The palace has magnificently frescoed rooms and is still
inhabited by the descendants of the Viti family.
  Opening hours: from March 31st to November 1st open every
day from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm, from Novem-
ber 2nd to March 30th open only by appointment. Cost: € 5 full,
reduced € 3; for information tel. 0588 84047.
 LE BALZE  They are located outside Volterra, interrupting the
view of the gentle rolling landscape in an abrupt and wild way.
The cliffs are an impressive natural phenomenon of erosion that
has led to the destruction of the largest necropolis in the city.
Only a few graves, around the Badia Camaldolese, were found in
the only patches of territory that remained intact near the plateau
of Guerruccia, in the extreme western part of the city.

Where to eat
We point out some reliable places, taverns, pizzerias, sandwich
shops, where to stop for a lunch or a snack.
LA MANGIATOIA  Via Antonio Gramsci 35, tel. 0588 85695, open from
11 am to 12 pm, closed on Wednesdays, excluding the months of

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June, July and August, in winter closed from November to March.

Small nice restaurant in the center of Volterra. Serving great salads,
sandwiches, pizzas, cold cuts and cheeses, in the summer you can
have lunch outside.
LA VECCHIA LIRA  Via Giacomo Matteotti 19, tel. 0588 86180, open
from 11 am to 12 pm, closed on Wednesdays, excluding the months
of June, July and August, in winter closed from November to
March. Large room, perhaps a little anonymous but good. A little
self service, a little table service, good dishes served, we recommend
the ribollita, the pici with meat and wild boar sauce, the chianina
cheese and pepper. Honest prices.
OSTERIA LA PACE  Via Don Minzoni 55, tel. 0588 86511, always open
for lunch and dinner from Easter to September, from October to
March closed on Wednesdays, open for lunch and dinner on the
other days. Typical and welcoming Tuscan tavern just inside the
walls of Volterra, good food. We recommend the first courses,
among them the strozzapreti with meat sauce, an as main courses
stewed wild boar, sausages and beans and sliced beef. Honest prices.
ALLA VECCHIA MANIERA  Via Ricciarelli 38, tel. 0588 88819, open
from 11 am to 3.30 pm and from 6.30 to 11.30 pm, closed on Tues-
days. Excellent pizzeria, you can choose various doughs, good first
courses, fair prices.

Arriving and leaving from Volterra

The town is in the province of Pisa, which you can reach by car
in about 90 minutes through fantastic landscapes. Along the road
that leads to Colle Val d’Elsa, you will have at your disposal the sgc
fi-si and along this artery you can reach Florence, Siena and other
places of Chianti in a little time.

298
 PHOTO ALBUM

To view the album in color, scan code

with an app to read the qr code

Recommended App: qr Code Reader

299
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 1 White road of Chianti between the Pesa and Virginio

Figure 2 Typical Casolare del Chianti

300
 Figure 3  Colors of Chianti

Figure 3 Colors of Chianti

Figure 4 His Majesty the Black Rooster

301
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 5 Steak, salami and cheese

302
 Figure 6  Typical Butcher of Chianti

Figure 6 Typical Butcher of Chianti

Figure 6 Cantina Castello di Gabbiano

Figure 7 The brume in Chianti

 

303
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 8 Spring in Chianti

Figure 9 Autumn in Chianti

304
 Figure 10  Via Machiavelli

Figure 10 Via Machiavelli

305
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 11 Villa Le Corti

Figure 12 Vinsanteria Villa Le Corti

306
 Figure 13  Castello di Gabbiano

Figure 13 Castello di Gabbiano

Figure 14 Surroundings of Cerbaia

307
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 15 Mulinaccio San Vincenzo a Torri

Figure 16 Panoramic view of Val di Pesa

308
 Figure 17  Pesa River

Figure 17 Pesa River

Figure 18 Farmhouse to Montepaldi

309
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 19 Sunset on Montepaldi

Figure 20 Pesa alla Botte

310
 Figure 21  Fresco of tuscan unknown

Figure 21 Fresco of tuscan unknown

Figure 22 Detail of the Castello di Poppiano

311
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Figure 23 Castello di Poppiano

Figure 24 Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale

312
 Figure 25  Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale

Figure 25 Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale

Figure 26 Square of Greve

313
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 27 Cave for storing cheese

Figure 28 Panorama of Montefioralle

314
 Figure 29  Montefioralle

Figure 29 Montefioralle

Figure 30 Vineyard near Panzano

315
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 31 Residence near Panzano

Figure 32 Church near Lamole

316
 Figure 33  Castello di Mugnana

Figure 33 Castello di Mugnana

Figure 34 Sunset on Cintoia

317
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 35 Castello da Verrazzano

Figure 36 Castello di Querceto

318
 Figure 37  Cellars Vicchiomaggio

Figure 37 Cellars Vicchiomaggio

Figure 38 Kiosk S. Piero in Bossolo

319
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 39 Badia a Passignano

Figure 40 Cenacolo del Ghirlandaio

320
 Figure 41  Kiosk of Badia a Passignano

Figure 41 Kiosk of Badia a Passignano

321
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 42 Panorama of San Donato

Figure 43 Parish Church of San Donato in Poggio

322
 Figure 44  Porta Fiorentina

Figure 44 Porta Fiorentina

Figure 45 Church of S. Bartolommeo

323
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Figure 46 Porta Senese

324
 Figure 47  S. Arcangelo a Semifonte

Figure 47 S. Arcangelo a Semifonte

Figure 48 Linari

325
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 49 Countryside surrounding Barberino

Figure 50 Duomo

326
 Figure 51  Orsanmichele

Figure 51 Orsanmichele

Figure 52 Ponte S. Trinita

327
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 53 Bridges over the River Arno from the Vasari Corridor

Figure 54 Ponte Vecchio

328
 Figure 55  Sunset on the Duomo

Figure 55 Sunset on the Duomo

Figure 56 Torre del Mangia

329
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 57 Floor of the Duomo

330
 Figure 58  Piazza della Cisterna

Figure 58 Piazza della Cisterna

331
PHOTO ALBUM  

Figure 59 The course and the towers

Figure 60 Certaldo Alto

332
 Figure 61  Palazzo dei Priori

Figure 61 Palazzo dei Priori

333
 Contents

TO THE READER..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................5
THE CHIANTI FIORENTINO................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
HISTORICAL OUTLINE................................................................................................................................................................................................... 9
Black rooster legend
............................................................................................................................................................................................... 11
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS............................................................................ 12
Tuscan cuisine.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................13
Chianti wineries................................................................................................................................................................................................................18
VISITING CHIANTI................................................................................................................................................................................................................19
Plan your trip...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................19
Arriving in Chianti.........................................................................................................................................................................................................20
Moving around Chianti.......................................................................................................................................................................................22
Staying in Chianti ........................................................................................................................................................................................................26
Top must-sees in Chianti...............................................................................................................................................................................30
Chianti paths: a world apart....................................................................................................................................................................30
Where to eat out in Chianti........................................................................................................................................................................ 34
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA.........................................................................................................................................................36
Historical outline........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
San Casciano today..................................................................................................................................................................................................39
Useful addresses and contacts...................................................................................................................................................... 40
Festivals and events.................................................................................................................................................................................................41
Gourmet food and…................................................................................................................................................................................................. 43
Not to be missed........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 46
Restaurants and eateries............................................................................................................................................................................ 49
Near San Casciano........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 54
Mercatale Val di Pesa............................................................................................................................................................................................ 54
Montefiridolfi.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................57
Bargino and surroundings......................................................................................................................................................................... 58
Cerbaia...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................60
Sant’Andrea in Percussina......................................................................................................................................................................... 64
Other things to do ......................................................................................................................................................................................................70
Itineraries from San Casciano............................................................................................................................................................ 72
What to see arrived at Tavarnelle.................................................................................................................................................. 74
What to see in Barberino................................................................................................................................................................................75

Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings.............................................................................78

Excursions from San Casciano....................................................................................................................................................... 86
GREVE IN CHIANTI........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 88
Historical outline............................................................................................................................................................................................................90
Greve in Chianti today...........................................................................................................................................................................................91
Useful addresses...........................................................................................................................................................................................................92
Festivals and events ..............................................................................................................................................................................................93
Food and…...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................96
What to see............................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 98
Where to eat..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................102
Bars and ice cream parlors .................................................................................................................................................................. 105

Near Greve in Chianti............................................................................................................................................................................................ 106

Panzano in Chianti ................................................................................................................................................................................................ 106
Lamole...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................110
Looking for a different Chianti........................................................................................................................................................... 111
Cintoia................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................112
Lucolena........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................114
San Polo in Chianti....................................................................................................................................................................................................115
Strada in Chianti............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 117
Go for castles and cellars............................................................................................................................................................................119
Other things to do.....................................................................................................................................................................................................120

Itineraries from Greve in Chianti................................................................................................................................................121

Where to sleep......................................................................................................................................................................................................................123
Historic Houses ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................123
Around Greve .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 127
On the ancient Via Romana ..................................................................................................................................................................128
Strada in Chianti .........................................................................................................................................................................................................128
Greve center ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................128

Excursions from Greve in Chianti........................................................................................................................................... 130

Go to San Casciano..................................................................................................................................................................................................131
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA...........................................................................................................................................................................133
Historical outline........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 135
Tavarnelle today........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 135
Useful addresses........................................................................................................................................................................................................136
Festivals and events.............................................................................................................................................................................................136
Food and…................................................................................................................................................................................................................................137
What to see ...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................137
Where to eat in Tavarnelle center ............................................................................................................................................ 140
Where to eat in the surroundings of Tavarnelle.............................................................................................141
The surroundings of Tavarnelle.................................................................................................................................................. 143
Passignano............................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 143
San Donato in Poggio....................................................................................................................................................................................... 145
Sambuca Val di Pesa ......................................................................................................................................................................................... 149
Where to spleep ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. 150
Historic Residences and Luxury Resorts.................................................................................................................. 150
At Tavarnelle ....................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 150
A San Donato in Poggio ............................................................................................................................................................................... 153
Excursions from Tavarnelle.................................................................................................................................................................. 155

VISIT THE OTHER COUNTRIES OF CHIANTI......................................................................................................... 158

BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA................................................................................................................................................................................. 159
Historical outline..........................................................................................................................................................................................................161
Barberino Val d’Elsa today........................................................................................................................................................................161
Useful addresses........................................................................................................................................................................................................162
Festivals and events ...........................................................................................................................................................................................163
Festivals and events in neighboring towns......................................................................................................... 164
Where to shop ................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 165
Where to eat in Barberino........................................................................................................................................................................ 165
Where to eat in the surroundings of Barberino.............................................................................................166
What to see in Barberino.............................................................................................................................................................................167
What to see around Barberino........................................................................................................................................................ 168
Where to eat in Vico D’Elsa....................................................................................................................................................................... 171
Go for castles and cellars............................................................................................................................................................................ 171
Where to stay in Barberino and surroundings................................................................................................. 172
Excursions from Barberino ...................................................................................................................................................................175
THE “GREAT BEAUTIES” AROUND THE CHIANTI
Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo, Volterra, Monteriggioni...176
FLORENCE ......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................178
Historical outline........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 180
Florence today..................................................................................................................................................................................................................181
Useful addresses ......................................................................................................................................................................................................182
Celebrations and anniversaries not to be missed ................................................................................ 183
Getting around in Florence.................................................................................................................................................................... 183
What to see............................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 184
From what originate some Florentine sayings.............................................................................................. 218
Where to eat: some good addresses................................................................................................................................ 220
Bars and ice cream parlors ................................................................................................................................................................. 223
Where to park in Florence........................................................................................................................................................................224

SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO ...................................................................................................................................................... 226

Historical outline....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 228
The history of the Palio................................................................................................................................................................................. 229
The districts (Contrade) of Siena and their history...............................................................................231
Addresses of the Contrade.................................................................................................................................................................. 233
Useful addresses...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 233
Getting around in the city....................................................................................................................................................................... 234
Not to be missed....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 234
Where to eat........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 245
Bar and ice cream parlors........................................................................................................................................................................247
Getting to Siena............................................................................................................................................................................................................249
Parking in Siena........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 250
Leaving Siena................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 250

MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE.......................................................................................................... 252

Historical outline....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 252
Monteriggioni today........................................................................................................................................................................................... 255
What to see........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 255
Festivals and events at Monteriggioni.......................................................................................................................... 256
Where to eat........................................................................................................................................................................................................................ 258
The beauties of the Val d’Elsa ....................................................................................................................................................... 259
River Park of the Elsa river...................................................................................................................................................................... 259
SAN GIMIGNANO...............................................................................................................................................................................................................261
Historical outline....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 263
The city today.................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 264
Useful addresses...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 264
Festivals and events........................................................................................................................................................................................... 265
What to see........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 266
Where to eat.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................270
Bars and ice cream parlors..................................................................................................................................................................... 271
CERTALDO ALTO................................................................................................................................................................................................................273
Historical outline........................................................................................................................................................................................................275
Certaldo today.................................................................................................................................................................................................................275
To go to Certaldo Alto........................................................................................................................................................................................ 277
Useful addresses....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 277
Festivals and events............................................................................................................................................................................................ 277
What to see............................................................................................................................................................................................................................278
Where to eat in Certaldo Alto.............................................................................................................................................................282
Eating out of Certaldo..................................................................................................................................................................................... 283
Bars and ice cream parlors................................................................................................................................................................... 283
VOLTERRA....................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 284
Historical outline....................................................................................................................................................................................................... 286
Useful addresses...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 286
Festivals and events............................................................................................................................................................................................287
What to see........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 288
Where to eat.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................297
Arriving and leaving from Volterra......................................................................................................................................... 298
PHOTO ALBUM ................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 299