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Guida Del Chianti Eng HIGHLIGHTED PDF
Guida Del Chianti Eng HIGHLIGHTED PDF
TRAVELTELLING
A
Danilo Papi
ISBN: 978-88-3363-235-3
English Translation: Alessandra Baroni
Copyediting: Marta Cannata
Cover: Federica Buoncristiani
All the photos, including the cover picture, are by the author
For the photos of the castles: Gabbiano, Vicchiomaggio, Verrazzano and Querceto,
thanks the photographic archives for the kind concession
This guide is designed for those who like to organize their own trip.
We will try to offer you not only places but a territory, and together
with things to see and not to be missed, we will provide you with
practical information about the needs that may arise traveling. You
will be informed about hotels, bed & breakfasts, cottages, restau-
rants, pharmacies, medical assistance centers, banks and shops. The
author of this guide has been living in Chianti for over 30 years,
knows the territory, and carefully inspected it to give you all the
informations that may be useful for your holiday. Keep in mind
that things are constantly changing, especially in the restaurant
sector where changes in management, opening hours and menus
are possible. We will also show you the typical places frequented by
the inhabitants of the place, you can get in touch with the flavors,
scents and traditions of the place, ensuring your travel an undoubt-
ed added value.
5
THE CHIANTI FIORENTINO
On the map
6
Tourists travelling to Tuscany are surely charmed by its cultured ar-
tistical perfection, represented by the stunning beauty of the towns
and their world renowned monuments, and in particular Florence,
birthplace of Renaissance. Travelers choosing a journey to Chian-
ti pick over a different path, a different territory, maybe attracted
by the green geometry of its wine yards, or the gently sloping hills
[Figure 1 White road of Chianti between the Pesa and Virginio, p. 300]. They
will find out much more, realizing to cover an essentially untouched
and unsullied land, only slightly narrowed by industrial develop-
ment, where art expresses itself through the unique painting of its
landscape shades palette, portraying wineyards, woods, sweet hills
and perfectly renovated stone farmhouses; many of these have been
turned into holiday farms, ideal solution that finds a perfect balance
between conventional relaxing and enjoying country activities.
Furthermore, in this such suggestive landscape are set many an-
cient abbeys, churches and parishes (the last ones summarizing the
religious practice to the function to keep the community together)
with their hidden treasures of masterpieces from the greatest Re-
naissance artists from Florence and Siena; castles and fortresses tes-
timony of a turbulent past. Travelers walking the roads of Chianti
will see the placards portraying the “Black Rooster” (at the mo-
ment not visible for renewal), the very symbol of this region: the
sight of the Black Rooster will let the travelers know they’re living
a unique and leisurely experience that leads them to discover im-
pressively fascinating places, for here everything is art. This guide
will go along with you through the districts of Chianti Fiorentino
(Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavarnelle Val di
Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa) and other world renowned places: Flor-
7
ence, Siena, Monteriggioni, San Gimignano, Volterra and Certal-
do. This travel guide ambition won’t be limited in just taking the
tourists by the hand guiding them to discover the countless, I’d say
infinite, natural and artistic beauties of this enchanted land, that
the whole world admires. The guide aims also to introduce you to
the typical tastes and flavors you only can savor in characteristic
places like ancient bakeries, grocery stores, butcher shops. You’ll
realize that in such typical stores there is the chance, beyond buy-
ing delicious homemade charcouterie (cold cuts) and prosciutto or
tasting excellent snacks (the Italian “merenda”) sitting at a table in
front of a good glass of wine, to meet the local dwellers, and try to
hold a conversation with them thanks to the warm conviviality of
the place: this experience will surely enrich journey. This is the re-
gion you’re about to discover: it will get you in contact with Tuscan
countryside, a land where absolute calm rules, but at the meantime
allows, due to the relative closeness of the main places of interest,
to visit the most captivating towns, traditional attraction for mass
tourism, like Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, and other cities
more off the beaten track, such as Certaldo and Volterra. Nothing
better than a journey in the cradle of Renaissance to fully enjoy the
peace and relaxing atmosphere of Chianti and its hills.
8
HISTORICAL OUTLINE
Chianti region has very long – standing roots. The first human set-
tlements date back to the Third Millennium bc. It was only with
the Etruscans, who reached the area in 500 bc and called it Clante,
that agriculture and the cultivation of the wine were introduced:
since then the vine became one of the territory symbols. The Ro-
mans further developed agriculture, introducing the cultivation of
a plant meant to become the second symbol of Chianti: the olive
tree. After the fall of the Roman Empire the area experienced centu-
ries of decline. It’s in this period that the art of wine – making is de-
veloped and evolved by the Benedectine and Vallombrosan monks
from the Coltibuono and Passignano abbeys. During the Middle
Ages the area was a continuous battlefield for the fights first be-
tween Siena and Arezzo, striving for control over these lands; sub-
sequently the latter was replaced by Florence. That was the dawn
of the conflict that opposed the Guelfs, ally of the Pope and led by
Florence, and the Ghibellines, loyal to the Holy Roman Emperor,
whose leader was Siena. The competitors clashed repeatedly until
the beginning of the xiii century, when a truce and a subsequent
treaty established a definitive boundary line that, as a matter of fact,
ratified the Florentine control of Chianti assigning to the town the
majority of the contended territories. In the meantime, wine pro-
duction spreads thanks to monks’ teaching ability, and wine starts
to be made also outside the abbeys; a few family names, that were
bound to make history in the Chianti region, the Ricasoli and the
Antinori, began a regular activity of wine makers. The half of the
xiii century sees the birth of the “Arte dei Vinattieri”: the first tav-
erns open the doors, wine is discovered as a source of enrichment
9
HISTORICAL OUTLINE
10
Black rooster legend
11
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS.
LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS
12
Tuscan cuisine
raisins are pressed and placed into special very small barrels called
“Caratelli”. The product then is bottled and sold on the market af-
ter about three years of fermentation. Vinsanto is ideal to be paired
with desserts, and that’s the reason why it’s mainly used at the end
of a meal. The traditional pairing is with Cantucci, typical regional
almond cookies: all you have to do is to dunk a cantuccino in a glass
of vinsanto and you’ll taste a unique flavor.
Olio Extravergine d’Oliva. A regional product of excellence, is
well known all over the world for its low acidity and its fruity and
slight pungent flavor. Immediately after having been pressed in the
oil-mill, it’s the main ingredient of the “fettunta”(a slice of tuscan
bread toasted and topped with a generous amount of oil). In Chi-
anti territory there are many oil-mills, but also many farmhouses
and holiday farms producing and selling directly their own oil.
Cured meats. Pork butchery products are surely placed in a
prominent position between Tuscan delicatessen. In Chianti region
many butcheries hand-craft pork meat selected cuts, producing ex-
quisite delicacies like Tuscan ham, salame, finocchiona, soprassata,
that can be purchased directly where they’re crafted. We will supply
to those interested in purchasing these deli foods a detailed list of
the oil-mills and the butcheries with their relative locations.
Chianti region and, in general, Tuscany, are lands of great wines,
and all of them world famous: in Gallo Nero territory is also produced
the celebrated Tignanello, many times international awards winner,
not to mention other outstanding red wines, Brunello di Montalci-
no, Sassicaia (this one made in Bolgheri), and Nobile di Montepul-
ciano. Whilst they’re exquisite and celebrated, none of them strictly
symbolizes Chianti territory, embodying its history and name.
Tuscan cuisine
Tuscany has always been a land with strong rural traditions, and
this characteristic has deeply influenced its cuisine, closely linked
to simple and genuine high-quality ingredients. Some of the most
traditional meals originated from “cucina povera” which literally
13
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS
14
Tuscan cuisine
kale), potatoes and tomatoes; the leftovers were cooked again in the
following days, from which the term “ribollita”, literally “re-boiled”.
PAPPA AL POMODORO Savory stale bread recipe: bread is soaked into
vegetable or chicken stock and then added to a sautée made with
extra virgin olive oil, garlic, onion and tomatoes.
FEGATELLI ALLA FIORENTINA Pork liver sliced coated with salt and
pepper, wrapped in caul fat and cooked in a pan with a sprinkle of ol-
ive oil and bay leaves, the last ones giving a unique and unusual flavor.
PEPOSO This beef stew came into being in Impruneta, a little town
just outside of Florence, renowned for its terracotta floors. The pe-
poso was made as a poor-man’s dish to feed the “fornacini” (kiln
workers) during the long sessions in the kilns. The fornacini used
to put forequarters and meat scraps in terracotta pots, smothering
the meat with black peppercorns and celery, and, over it all, glug-
ging liters of red wine. Then the pot was put inside the kiln. This
peculiar recipe was noticed by Filippo Brunelleschi during one
of his visits the terracotta factories to supervise every step of the
production process of the bricks used to build the dome of Santa
Maria del Fiore cathedral, better known as Duomo di Firenze. The
great master introduced this dish as a typical meal for the workers:
it was cooked directly on the scaffoldings, and that expedient dra-
matically decreased the time spent for lunch, normally consumed
in surrounding taverns. In the xix century tomato was added as an
ingredient of peposo, and with this variation is nowadays cooked.
TRIPPA ALLA FIORENTINA The tripe recipe is a dish made from the
muscle wall of three of the four stomachs of the cow, reduced into
stripes and then slow cooked with herbs, tomato sauce, salt, pepper
and completed with grated Parmigiano cheese. You can find this
typical plate not just in restaurants, but also as street food: in the
squares of Florence and in some Chianti cities, there are plenty of
carts named “I Trippai”, specialized in the cooking and sale of tripe.
15
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS
16
Tuscan cuisine
17
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS
• Cantucci Simple Tuscan dry biscuits, they are made with plain
flour, eggs, butter and almonds, and then baked in oven. Cantucci-
ni are traditionally served at the end of a meal with a glass of Tus-
can dessert wine, Vinsanto, for dipping.
Tasting Chianti specialty foods
As we already mentioned, Chianti offers special places able to in-
spire you and add preciousness to your trip, places where you can
savor the landscape atmosphere, taste a delicious sandwich rather
than a focaccia bread stuffed with local produced cold cuts, or a var-
ious selection of cheeses and typical dishes. We will point out the
farm houses and holiday farms with their own oil-mills (producing
oil exclusively with olives from their personal olive groves), gro-
ceries, bakeries, ancient butcheries, workshops where cured meats
are hand-crafted following the local tradition. All these local en-
terprises resisted the spreading out of Mass Market Retailers, and
the reason why is simple: they have a soul in harmony with the ter-
ritory, and it’s there that the locals hang out with each other; such
an experience will surely make your journey more authentic and
original [Figure 6 Typical Butcher of Chianti, p. 303].
Chianti wineries
These historic wine – producing estates are an absolute must visit
during you tour: they contain the history of wine preserved through-
out the centuries, as you can sense visiting their cellars. Sometimes
these estates are real architectural masterworks. Wineries are spread
out over all Chianti territory, often located in castles, old farm hous-
es, ancient villas or dwelling houses. Visiting a few of these wineries,
you’ll probably ask for information (if you’re not interested in going
for a tour of the historic estates, the local atp will provide you all the
necessary information services to take a look at old cellars in holiday
farms or farm houses, maybe less known by tourists, but indubitably
worth a visit). After this experience you will understand how wine
and territory are deeply bound and what Gallo Nero means for this
land [Figure 13 Castello di Gabbiano, p.307].
18
VISITING CHIANTI
19
VISITING CHIANTI
Arriving in Chianti
BY PLANE For tourists arriving by plane there are three possible al-
ternatives: car hiring, taxi or the most convenient bus. Other than
taxies (quite expensive), the bus service runs from Vespucci Airport
to central Florence Piazza Stazione. When the tram track works
(still in progress at the moment) will be over, it makes available for
tourists a much faster link between the Airport and the center of
Florence. The bus stop is immediately outside the Airport. Once
you have arrived in central Piazza Stazione, at the corner with Via
Santa Caterina da Siena there is a bus terminal: these buses link
with regular day runs Florence trough intercity routes with Greve,
San Casciano, Tavarnelle, Barberino Val d’Elsa.
BY BUS The bus terminal is in Florence, Via Santa Caterina da Si-
ena, close to the main central railway station. Bus Italia connects
Florence with Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Tavar-
nelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa, and bus itineraries link also
all these towns with each other. Here we’re not providing the rela-
tive timetables, because they differ markedly between working days
(Monday to Friday), working days excluding Saturday, and Sunday
and holidays, and may vary on year or season basis. If you’re inter-
ested in using bus as means of transport, we suggest to consult www.
acvbusacvbus.it website or call the toll-free number 800373760, ac-
tive from 5.30 am to 8.30 pm. Bus Italia agency is associated with Si-
ena bus services provider Siena Mobilità, so through further routes
you can reach many localities of the province of Siena. You can
get to the town of Siena directly by way of sgc fi-si, for there are
frequent non-stop bus runs leaving from Siena Mobilità terminal.
20
Arriving in Chianti
Siena Mobilità Company links Siena with the rest of Tuscany and
its terminal is located in Via Lombardi, close to Florence central
railway station; destinations operated include Siena, San Gimigna-
no and other towns of Sienese Chianti with express (non-stop) and
average runs with stops. To get accurate information we suggest to
call toll-free number 800922984 from local cabin booths with a
prepaid phone card, call centers or your hotel phone, for they are
local calls (for mobile calls 199168182; be aware that mobile calls
are routed internationally so they can be very expensive for a local
call) every day of the week including Sundays from 7.30 am to 7.30
pm, or send an e-mail to [email protected] and visit
the website www.tiemmespa.it.
BY TRAIN Florence’s central train station is Stazione di Santa Ma-
ria Novella, and it’s located exactly in the city center. Rail trav-
elling to get to Florence is absolutely comfortable and pleasant.
Travellers on the route to Chianti can, as we previously said,
head to the close bus terminal in Via Santa Caterina da Siena,
just around the corner from Piazza Stazione. Travelling by train
is also a convenient solution for those who will pick out Panca,
Dudda and Lucolena aera and subsequently intend to visit Flor-
ence. Going to the close Figline Valdarno railway station, acces-
sible by car or bus runs in about ten minutes, you will arrive in
Santa Maria Novella within 35 minutes: be aware, anyway, that
train services on this route are not very frequent.
21
VISITING CHIANTI
BY BIKE If you are in good shape, physically fit and healthy, and en-
joy cycle-tourism, you can choose between two options: get to the
location chosen by different means of transport (car, motorcycle,
bus) and then rent a bike once you arrive there (we will supply ad-
dresses and phone numbers of many local bike rental services) or, on
the other hand, carry your own bicycles on trains or buses and then
direct to the place where you intend to start your bike tour from.
Be aware that on trains you may be required to transport your bike
assembled and on buses normally you will have to put them in the
cargo area underneath, on its side. The routes can be practiced with
racing bikes, hybrid bikes and mountain bikes, although the topog-
raphy of the area lends itself to be traveled by mountain bike or good
trekking bikes, depending on the many challenging climbs of the
routes. In any case, cycle tourism is an ideal way to discover Chianti,
rewarding the cycle riders with the countryside great views; there are
many accommodation types along the routes, guest houses, bed and
breakfasts (B&B), and holiday farms (the so called “agriturismi”, rus-
tic country houses or working farms offering rooms, most of times
family run and often providing breakfast and dinner). Booking your
accommodation in advance is highly recommended (especially in
busy periods), according to the itinerary you have planned; check
the websites of the sort of accommodation you prefer for good – val-
ue deals, and to find the cheapest rates.
22
Moving around Chianti
23
VISITING CHIANTI
24
Moving around Chianti
eas (cities, towns and villages), 70km/h (44 mph) on two lane reg-
ular non urban roads except where otherwise posted, 90 km/h (56
mph) on the toll free 2 lanes highways sgc Firenze-Pisa-Livorno
and Firenze-Siena. On toll highways (“autostrade”) the speed limit
is 130 (81 mph) or even 150 km/h (93 mph) but only on certain
sections; 150 km/h speed limit signs will be in place – but do not
assume you can travel at 150 km/h (pay attention because certain
sections of highways may have speed limits lower than 130 km/h).
In addition to the roadside speed cameras, in many highway sec-
tions is active the speed Safety Tutor system, whose devices usually
hang beneath autostrada bridges (it tracks your average speed over
various tracts of highway). Here we supply a list of the devices cur-
rently known as active on the routes included in this guide, warn-
ing you anyway that these informations may vary or not being up
to date due to changes of locations disposed by Italian State Police.
Autovelox on sgc fi-pi-li towards Florence: before
Livorno/Stagno at km 77; between Vicarello and Lavoria at
km 63; before Montopoli Val d’Arno at km 45; between San
Miniato and Empoli Ovest at km 32; after Ginestra Fiorentina at
km 8. towards Pisa/Livorno: between Lastra a Signa and
Ginestra Fiorentina at km 12; after Montelupo fiorentino exit;
between Santa Croce sull’Arno and Montopoli val d’Arno at km
41; between Montopoli val d’Arno and Pontedera at km 47;
between Pisa Nord and Airport Galileo Galilei exit at km 73.
Autovelox on sgc fi-si towards Florence: between
Badesse and Monteriggioni at km 4.1; between Monteriggioni
and Colle Val d’Elsa at km 12.7; Colle Val d’Elsa at km 15.7;
exit Tavarnelle Val di Pesa at km 40.6; after San Casciano in Val
di Pesa at km 49.8. towards Siena: after the exit Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa at km 40.5; after San Donato in Poggio at km 31.5;
after Poggibonsi at km 21.2; between the exits Colle Val d’El-
sa and Colle Val d’Elsa Sud at km 16.6; between Monteriggioni
and Badesse at km 6.8.
25
VISITING CHIANTI
Staying in Chianti
Chianti offers a wide range of accommodation options: you can
choose between fine or even luxury lodgings, from villas, castles
and resorts (obviously more expensive) to hotels, B&Bs and rustic
farm-houses converted into holiday homes (“Agriturismo”, or “ag-
ricultural tourism/agritourism”), the most typical and characteris-
26
Staying in Chianti
27
VISITING CHIANTI
28
Staying in Chianti
29
VISITING CHIANTI
If you have a few hours to spend, or even a whole day, you should
explore at least one of the scenic paths Chianti offers to visitors.
30
Chianti paths: a world apart
Whether you are looking for a challenging path or an easy walk, these
itineraries are a perfect way to get in touch with the deepest peculiar-
ities of this territory. You will delve into the natural glory of the Chi-
anti region, hiking woods, dells, small hamlets, walking bumby and
gravel roads, seldom spaced out with paved tracts. Here silence rules
and even if there are surrounding residential areas and towns are not
too far, the barrage of noise is absolute and you will feel like living in
another world. You will come across stunning farmhouses, some left
uninhabited, and admire amazing landscapes, with no fear of being
disturbed. Chianti offers itineraries that can suit all kinds of trekkers,
with long distance, average and easy trails: normally these excursion
routes are easily accessible. Naturally a little training is required for
paths exceeding 10 km. In the following pages we will recommend
some itineraries like the “Cammino della Pesa” (Tavarnelle and San
Casciano municipalities) and the “Anello di Mugnana” (Greve in
Chianti). The guide will supply a short list of other itineraries, trek-
king trails and rings you can choose to explore in all Chianti area: we
suggest you to address the local apt (“Azienda di Promozione Tur-
istica”, Tourist Promotion Agency) because they will be able to give
you more indepht informations and maps. Furthermore, sometimes
new trails are opened, like the Badia a Passignano ones, and these
new routes may be worth a walk. Internet represents another excel-
lent source of informations: browsing the various towns and villages
websites, you can find many proposals of hikes and rings, specifying
different lenghts, levels of difficulty and the places you’ll come across
along your path. Websites of course may not always be up to date,
anyway they are a precious resource. If you’re travelling in group,
the best option is to contact expert and certified mountain guides
or naturalist guides (whose presence is widespread, for example in
San Casciano and Greve), that will allow you to discover enchanting
sceneries and supply useful suggestions. We will provide you for each
town a list of the main hiking trails and rings.
SAN CASCIANO In addition to the above mentioned “Cammi-
no della Pesa”, we recommend you the “Percorso del Principe”
31
VISITING CHIANTI
32
Chianti paths: a world apart
33
VISITING CHIANTI
34
Where to eat out in Chianti
35
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
On the map
36
37
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
Historical outline
The area of San Casciano Val di Pesa turns out to be inhabited since
the viii century bc, as it’s attested by findings like the Etruscan
“Tomba dell’arciere”(Archer’s tomb, vii century bc, a square room
with a dromos oriented to the west; the tomb is open to visitors
every day), discovered near Montefiridolfi, a village in San Cascia-
no’s neighborhoods. During Roman times San Casciano was a post
house placed on an important crossroad on the top of the road go-
ing downhill to Florence, in correspondence with the miliarium
decimum (the tenth milestone on an important roman road prob-
ably connecting Florentia and Sena Iulia). That’s why its original
name was San Casciano a Decimo; over the time the suffix “Dec-
imo” was lost and replaced with Val di Pesa, referring to the val-
ley and the river Pesa. Thereabouts was built the parish Church of
Santa Cecilia a Decimo, that still preserves the ancient toponym.
A considerable population density in late Antiquity and early Mid-
dle Ages is indicated by the large number of almost coeval parish
churches in the area (Santo Stefano a Campoli, San Pancrazio and
San Giovanni in Sugana). During the Middle Ages San Casciano
suffered for a large number of lootings and devastations; the first
assault was led in 1312 by Henry vii, the Holy Roman Emperor,
and this attack was followed by the occupation of the town: the
Emperor, having abandoned the siege of Florence, encamped on
the Poggio, and lately charged his brother, Baldwin of Luxembourg
Prince-Archbishop of Trier, to destroy all, laying waste, and burning
houses in the region, including the Pesa and Greve valleys castles
and fortresses. Shortly after Henry the vii’s departure, Castruccio
Castracani arrived in San Casciano and destroyed the entire village.
In response to these attacks, as a countermeasure, Florence, having
in the meantime realized the strategic relevance of the area, start-
ed the erection the “Cassero” fortified building; it was completed
in 1356. Furthermore, the Republic of Florence decided to fortify
the hamlet with walls. The fortified city walls, still well preserved,
enclosed all the knoll including the village, the church, the “Po-
38
San Casciano today
destà” (Chief Magistrate) palace and the “Cassero”. Since then San
Casciano became an unassailable fortress, devastations came to an
end and a prolific development period began, attracting once again
famous Florentine and Sienese artists, indelibly engraving their ar-
tistic virtuosity in many monuments. Among them Taddeo Gaddi,
Giotto’s pupil, the sculptor Giovanni Balduccio, an apprentice of
Giovanni Pisano, and Simone Martini, who probably painted his
last work in 1330, the wooden Cross of the Church of the Miseri-
cordia, before his death in Avignon. These artists masterpieces can
be admired either in the Churches or in the San Casciano Museum
(of Sacred Art) located inside the Church and the Convent of San-
ta Maria del Gesù, next to the town walls. During the xv century
the wealthy Florentine families built their own palaces inside the
fortified walls. The great Convent of the Franciscan Monks was
built outside the walls by Girolamo Castrucci, a San Casciano na-
tive and citizen, in 1492, and then enlarged in 1494. In 1512 this ter-
ritory hosted in the hamlet of Sant’Andrea in Percussina Niccolò
Machiavelli, who spent there his exile from Florence at the famous
villa the “Albergaccio”: there he wrote one of his most renowned
works, “Il Principe” (The Prince). When the House of Medici con-
solidated his power over Tuscany in the early years of xvi century,
San Casciano ceased to be sentry of Florence: gates, towers and
bastions went slowly demolished, castles were transformed in lux-
urious villas and Della Robbia kilns were opened: the Della Rob-
bia left some of their artworks at San Giovanni in Sugana, and in
other Churches and villas in the surroundings. The last grievous
devastation dates to July, 26 1944, when the German mines and the
Anglo-American bombings razed the area to the ground.
39
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
40
Festivals and events
41
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
42
Gourmet food and…
43
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
44
Gourmet food and…
price 18€ per person, and outdoor Brunch and Light Lunch
including three wines, cheese tasting, schiacciata bread, tuscan
white bread, cured meats and typical desserts like cantuccini and
ricotta cheese with honey, price 30€ per person (Brunch and
Light Lunch offer also a tour of vineyard, cellars and dairy). To
get there, see itinerary B [Itinerary B Cerbaia Val di Pesa → San Quir-
ico in Collina → San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle Val di Pesa → Barberino Val
D’Elsa duraion 1-2 days, p. 73]: pass San Pancrazio village and move
along towards Tavarnelle. Follow this road past the small village
of Santa Cristina in Salivolpe, and after Santa Cristina take a left
down Via San Vito, a little dirt road letting you admire amazing
landscapes: after a little while you will arrive at Corzano, where
the wine cellar, dairy, office and shop are situated.
• Caseificio Nieddu Via Malafrasca 234, tel. 055 8248127. On
the road heading to Tavarnelle, see itinerary B [Itinerary B Cer-
baia Val di Pesa → San Quirico in Collina → San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle
Val di Pesa → Barberino Val D’Elsa duration 1-2 days, p. 73], just beyond
Corzano and Paterno Dairy. This characteristic dairy, owned by
Giovannino Nieddu, a native Sardinian shepherd who moved
to Tuscany many years ago, produces its excellent cheese with
traditional methods using exclusively the milk from the 220
Sardinian sheep grazing in the fields surrounding the stables of
the dairy farm. In addition to a world-class pecorino, many are
the sorts of cheese you can savor at Nieddu dairy: upon reserva-
tion, cheese and local cured meat tastings are held accompanied
with wines from the farm vineyards, all in a relaxing and scenic
atmosphere. It’s a must-try.
WHERE TO PARK THE CAR
Parking the Chisci at the entrance of the village, coming from Cer-
baia, adjacent to the Piazza Repubblica that is easily reachable on
foot in a few minutes. Stormed the monday day of the weekly mar-
ket and the 13 August on the occasion of San Cassiano feast of the
Patron Saint of the village.
45
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
Not to be missed
CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL GESÙ, OR “DEL SUFFRAGIO” OR SA-
CRED ART GIULIANO GHELLI MUSEUM Via Roma 33, Tuesday 3 pm to
7 pm; Wednesday 9 am to 1 pm, Saturdays and Sundays 10 am to 1
pm and 4 pm to 7 pm. Timetable is provisional and not definitive,
so if you find the museum closed during the above hours please can
ask for information at the town Public Relations Office (urp), lo-
cated in Via Machiavelli after Piazza delle Erbe, or go to the close
Tourist&Information Office, a short distance away on the same
street (opening times are variable, if in doubt, please check always
the currently valid opening times). Built in 1628 with the patronage
of the Lucardesi family, since 1989 hosts the Sacred Art Museum;
This Museum shows very interesting collections. The archaeolog-
ical section displays roman artefacts like daily use tools; the most
significative monument is represented by the majestic Etruscan stele
known as the “dell’Arciere”, found in the “Tomba dell’arciere” (Ar-
cher’s tomb, vii century bc) discovered near Montefiridolfi, a village
in San Casciano’s neighborhoods.
CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA DEL PRATO OR “DELLA MISERICORDIA” Via
Morrocchesi 72, open every day (Saturdays and Sundays included)
9-12.30 am., 3-7 pm. Entrance to the Church and museum is free,
but donations are welcome. If you wish to visit the museum, please
ring the Misericordia attendant at the neighboring Misericordia
Building close to the ancient “Porta al Prato”, one of the surviv-
ing gateways in the town walls. This 1304; after a restoration, from
1631 it hosted the headquarters of the “Arciconfraternita della Mi-
sericordia”. It contains a fine collection of art works gathered over
the course of time by the Confraternity of Misericordia, and mag-
nificent masterworks by noteworthy Sienese and Florentine art-
ists: the14th century panels depicting the Madonna and Child by
Ugolino da Siena, Duccio da Boninsegna’s pupil and the Crucifix
depicted by Simone Martini (currently being restored at the “Opi-
ficio delle pietre dure” in Florence). During the Holy Week the
Church gets adorned inside with a profusion of splendid flowers.
46
Not to be missed
47
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
48
Restaurants and eateries
49
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
50
Restaurants and eateries
the location has an ample hall located under the main floor (where
you can find a bar/ cafeteria), bakes delicious pizzas, offers nice start-
ers and first courses at discount prices. This club is one of San Cas-
ciano two main meeting points, and hosts in a contiguous premise a
movie theater serving also as an acting theater where during winter
season weekends shows are performed (either films or stage plays).
In summertime, shows are performed in the summer arena inside the
walls. This pizzeria is very popular, so we suggest booking in advance,
especially on Saturdays and Sundays.
CIRCOLO ARCI Via dei Fossi 63, tel. 055 820779, open for din-
ner on Saturdays and Sundays. Passed by Niccolini Theater, move
straight on: the club stands about 100 mt (328 ft) from the inter-
section. Here too a vast hall hosts the costumers: tasty starters,
first courses and pizzas. This pizzeria is also very popular, so we
suggest booking in advance.
PIZZERIA STADIO Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 30, tel. 055 820509.
Summer-only pizzeria, in July open from Thursdays to Sundays, in
August all through the week, except Mondays. It’s located down the
road where on Mondays the local open-air market is held inside the
athletic field. This restaurant is run by volunteers, and all the funds
raised go to the local soccer team to support its activities. Obviously,
it’s an outdoor pizzeria; the location is quiet except on Saturdays and
Sundays: you can taste savory pizzas, seafood first courses and wild
game recipes. Affordable prices.
PARCO ATTREZZATO DEL POGGIONE. SAN CASCIANO During the
first ten days of September all the laic and catholic volunteer as-
sociations get together in this Park, organizing live shows, con-
certs and theatre performances: during the event you can find a
pizzeria and a restaurant running with quality food and afford-
able prices. The event is basically a nonprofit fund rising to allo-
cate donations to projects anywhere in the third world. If you are
in the neighborhoods, make a pit stop here: you will please your
palates and do a good deed.
51
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
52
Restaurants and eateries
53
Near San Casciano
54
Mercatale Val di Pesa
55
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
56
Montefiridolfi
Montefiridolfi
Very close to San Casciano from which it is only 5 km away, you can
reach it travelling the panoramic Via Grevigiana: passed by the gas
station Eni, turn right, where there is a road sign, and you will arrive
after a few minutes to your destination. The history of Montefiridolfi
is deeply tied with that of its castle. The village derives its name from
Buondelmonti family ownership of the castle: they owned it until the
xvii century. Today it is an agricultural village in the Chiantigiana
countryside with little more than 300 inhabitants. Worthy of atten-
57
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
58
Bargino and surroundings
the roof you will discover a vineyard with all the grape varieties of
Chianti, even the more ancient. This cellar, housing inside the very
best of oenological production, despite being a great work obvious-
ly has nothing to do with the ancient and typical Chianti wine cel-
lars. This, combined with an atmosphere in part anonymous, can be
a little disappointing; it’s however absolutely worth a visit. If you are
interested to visit the Antinori cellars call the number 055 2359700.
WHERE TO EAT IN BARGINO AND SURROUNDINGS
• Trattoria da Bule [€€] Via Cassia to Siena 94, tel. 055 8249489,
closed on Sundays, Open for lunch and dinner all the rest of the
week 12.30 am-2.30 pm and 7.30-10 pm. In the middle of the
village behind the grocery store. Excellent home-style trattoria.
Among the first courses we recommend the macaroni with the
tripe sauce and the ribollita. Among the main dishes, mixed
grill, Florentine steak, stewed wild boar, livers and peposo im-
prunetino. Good also the desserts, special the cantucci of Prato
soaked in vinsanto.
• Trattoria del Ponte Rotto [€€] Via Certaldese 6, tel. 055 828090,
always open for lunch and only Saturdays for lunch and dinner.
Near the bridge on the Pesa river on the road that leads to San
Pancrazio and Certaldo. Typical Tuscan country trattoria serving
tasty food. Ribollita, Lombard soup, a plate of toasted bread with
boiled beans and plenty of Tuscan oil. Steaks and grills are among
its most popular courses. Excellent cantucci of Prato and cold cuts
produced in the area.
• Pizzeria La botte Via Borromeo 154, tel. 055 8249029, closed
on Tuesdays and Saturdays for lunch, open for lunch and din-
ner all the other days. Its located between the Bargino and the
Broken Bridge. Pleasant pizzeria inserted in a sports area and
playground, on the bank of the river Pesa (you can get there by
following the path of the Pesa) this place makes excellent pizzas,
seafood first courses, but also “penne strascicate”(penne sauteed
in sauce) or dressed with porcini mushrooms. In summer it is
very pleasant to eat, especially at dinnertime, outdoors.
59
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
Cerbaia
This district of 2000 inhabitants is approximately the second most
populous village of the municipal territory. Its history is tied to the
bridge that the Signoria of Florence built in 1295 on the Pesa stream,
probably to favor trade as it was at the intersection of the roads com-
ing from Florence and Volterra. But there are also those who argue
that the construction of the first nucleus was due to the fact that the
area was a rich hunting reserve of the noble Florentine families, being
populated by many deer, from which perhaps descends its first name
Cervaia that then became Cerbaia. The village has no tourist attrac-
tions, but it is full of life that happens largely in its square, Piazza del
60
Cerbaia
61
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
62
Cerbaia
63
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
Sant’Andrea in Percussina
Small ancient village near San Casciano. Surrounded by vineyards
from which beautiful mansions rise, it is located on a ridge from
which it is possible to glimpse the cathedral of Florence, the hills
of Fiesole, the mountains of Pratomagno and the valley of the river
Greve. Here was exiled by the Medici, because he was suspected of
64
Sant’Andrea in Percussina
65
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
66
Sant’Andrea in Percussina
67
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
cial cold cuts produced directly by the owner and enjoy a good
glass of wine, and the typical trattoria of the Ponte Rotto, a cozy
place that serves the typical Tuscan cuisine dishes. To continue
towards the Bargino you have to cross the village in the direc-
tion of San Casciano; after passing the car park turn right and
you will reach the river in a few minutes. A short distance away
is the sports park of Botte, delicious, fresh and relaxing, located
on the river bank, where you can stop for a coffee, an ice cream
or to have dinner in the park restaurant. In the park there are a
playground for children, 2 tennis courts, a baseball field and a
picnic area equipped with barbecue and seating tables [Figure 20
Pesa alla Botte, p. 310]. Obviously in summertime and especially
on weekends this place is overcrowded, and it is difficult to find
a place to eat outside if you do not arrive early. Going forward
you get to a bridge: you are at Calzaiolo, and if you cross the
bridge and turn left you can continue to the Bargino, Sambuca
and Ponte di Rignana.
• Way from Bargino to Ponte di Rignana At the Bargino bridge
head towards Sambuca Val di Pesa, pass under the bridge of the
Florence-Siena highway that you will flank for a short distance;
reached the following bridge, at the top of a short climb you
continue straight: here the landscape is more rugged, but equally
amazing. It is possible that the path skimmed by the river could
be damaged in some parts by the floods of the Pesa; the last
stretch of the path has almost completely lacking shade: here you
pass close to the ruins of a beautiful farmhouse. On the opposite
side of the river there are the Chianti hills with woods, vineyards
and the inevitable typical Tuscan farmhouses; behind them the
beautiful Vallombrosian abbey of Badia a Passignano. The path
ends on a paved road: going to the right you can quickly reach
the village of Sambuca, where there is the magnificent Roman
bridge and a place not to be missed, the Francini butchery sell-
ing excellent meats and cold cuts. Close to the butchery there
is a rustic restaurant that offers almost exclusively meat, steaks,
68
Sant’Andrea in Percussina
barbecue, tartare and cold cuts. All at affordable prices. After the
Sambuca Bridge, the road is wonderful but has some difficult
stretches: in 5 km you will arrive at the bridge of Rignana. Once
here you have the opportunity to continue to Greve in Chianti
or Badia a Passignano but are all very challenging routes and you
have to be well trained.
• Pieve di San Pancrazio Placed on the hill that divides the Val di
Pesa from the Val Virginio, it dates back to the 10th century, as tes-
tified by a document found at Badia di Passignano. The building,
of evident Roman origins, has undergone heavy alterations in the
xv century when the Company of the Annunciation was found-
ed. Later, the Chapel of San Giovanni, the Canonica and the Por-
tal of the main façade were added to the original building. The
Church, which owes much to Pievano Niccolò Cavalcanti, who
lived there and dedicated all his possessions to its expansion and
embellishment, brought there Santi di Tito when he was involved
in the construction of Villa le Corti: he left a beautiful painting
depicting the Crucifixion of Christ. It has a plan with three naves
that ends with likewise circular apses. Of the original Romanesque
structure remains the bell tower, the tribune with the three apses
(only the central one is intact). Inside the Pieve there are works
of considerable interest, a xvi century painting of the Madonna
between San Sebastiano and San Rocco and a panel of Cenni di
Francesco, important painter and miniaturist of the 1400s, and on
the right aisle a fresco of an unknown Tuscan painter, 1300-1400,
which depicts the Madonna with child among the Saints [Figure 21
Fresco of Tuscan unknown, p. 311]. Near the main altar there is a beau-
tiful wooden Crucifix. Not to be missed, next to the church, is the
beautiful studio of Niccolò, a room with walls entirely frescoed
with stunning paintings. These represent all the arts, the Gram-
mar with the wand skywards indicating God who illuminates
the wisdom of men. There are depicted Dante, Boccaccio, Guido
Cavalcanti, ancestor of Niccolò. Alongside the scholars of the past
Thales, Sophocles, Socrates, Strabo and Empedocles.
69
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Near San Casciano
Other things to do
70
Other things to do
pizzas, but not during lunch opening hours, good first courses and
excellent steaks and tagliate. In summer it is lovely to eat outside.
The restaurant is closed on Mondays, open all the other days for
dinner, on Saturdays and Sundays also for lunch.
EXCURSIONS IN QUAD Via di Vittorio 23, San Casciano, tel.
055 8290148/334 2805217, Luca will answer to your call. Entry also
from the adjacent car park “dei Chisci”. Ideal for sportsmen who do
not want to get too much tired. The tours of the Chianti tracks are
really beautiful, they usually last half a day and end in one of the typical
groceries, eating a sandwich or a schiacciata with local cold meats in
front of a good glass of wine. Prices currently not available.
EXCURSIONS IN BUGGY “COCCHIERI DI’ CHIANTI” tel. 335 8242228. An
original way to spend some good times admiring the landscape is on
board of a buggy. The tour starts from San Quirico in Collina, a village
that dominates the river Pesa from the municipality of Montespertoli
side. Great part of excursions take place in the wonderful Via di Casti-
glioni, a dirt road that starts from the village of Montagnana and runs
along a ridge overlooking the Pesa on one side and the Virginio torrent
on the other, proceeds in the direction of the Anselmo crossing vine-
yards and offering marvelous views of the two valleys from which beau-
tiful farmhouses and ancient dwellings with beautiful cellars emerge.
The tour also includes a visit to the cellars of Villa Frescobaldi where
you can taste wines and cheese with cold cut platters, but if you desire
so, the trip can end with a lunch or dinner in a typical place. You can
also visit the village of Poppiano dominated by the Guicciardini castle,
tasting and buying wines, or take the road that leads to San Pancrazio
towards Tavarnelle Val di Pesa. Luke the coachman is a profound ex-
pert of the place and is a real mine of information.
71
Itineraries from San Casciano
Itinerary A
Montefiridolfi → Bargino → Badia a Passignano
DURATION 1 DAY
Short and beautiful itinerary of a few kilometers a day. Go along Via
Grevigiana, on this road there are the cellars of Villa Le Corti and the
cellars of the Terre di Perseto (farm where it is possible to taste and
buy wines at reasonable prices). Continuing you reach the junction
near the village of Mercatale Val di Pesa, from where you turn right
towards Montefiridolfi, which deserves a short stop; here taking Via di
Collina, we arrive at the small village that bears the same name. Near-
by, well pointed out as historical monument, is the Etruscan tomb of
the Archer. Going further you get to the castle of Bibione, an ancient
mansion turned into a beautiful resort. After about two kilometers
you will find the village of Bargino with the new Antinori cellars. Along
the Via Cassia in the direction of Sambuca Val di Pesa we find, be-
fore arriving at the village, a sign indicating the road to the beauti-
ful Vallombrosan Abbey of Badia a Passignano. After the visit of the
Abbey, continue crossing the state road, turn left towards Mercatale
Val di Pesa, and after about 3 km there is a crossroads: turning right
a small road leads to the Castle of Palagio with its beautiful cellars,
going on after a few meters you will find the Pieve di Santo Stefano
in Campoli. If instead at the intersection you turn left, after about two
kilometers you will find the castle of Gabbiano. Whichever road you
might choose, however, you will have to go back to the intersection
if you wish to continue towards Mercatale and San Casciano. You can
also make a variation to the itinerary, very fasciating: arrived in Mon-
tefiridolfi cross the village and go in the direction of the Antinori del
Tignanello cellars (not open to visitors); continuing along the beauti-
ful paved road, you will be arrived at destination, admiring the superb
landscapes at the Fonte dei Medici resort. After the resort, the road
becomes a dirt road; turning right at the crossroads, you will arrive at
Badia a Passignano having the chance to admire it from above. After
the visit continue, crossing the Cassia, go first left towards Sambuca,
ancient Roman bridge on the Pesa, then turn back towards the new
72
Itinerary B
Itinerary B
Cerbaia Val di Pesa → San Quirico in Collina
→ San Pancrazio → Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
→ Barberino Val D’Elsa
DURATION 1-2 DAYS
This tour will allow you to discover the other side of the river Pesa
through the territory of the municipality of Montespertoli and then en-
ter the Tavarnelle Val di Pesa and Barberino Val d’Elsa ones. Starting
from San Casciano, take Via Empolese towards Cerbaia, past the villa
of Poggiale stop near the Montepaldi junction to admire the gorgeous
views of the Val di Pesa, even if the best panorama is the one you can
admire from Montepaldi’s farm (in the open space in front of the villa
bordered by chains and small barrels, but accessible on foot). Once
in Cerbaia continue towards Montespertoli, cross the Pesa, and after
about 300 meters turn left into Via Ripa, a scenic road on the other side
of the river that will lead you, after having passed through the village of
Ripa, to San Quirico in Collina. If you please you can make two interest-
ing stops: the first at the workshop of the Dini brothers who produce
excellent cured meats and hams (you can buy the products in the lab-
oratory where you are literally overwhelmed by the smells released by
hanging cold cuts): the laboratory is sited below the bar-grocery in the
center of the town. After 100 meters on the same side is the butchery
Ciappi: they sell top-quality meat cuts, (often they slaughter livestock
directly) and produces also excellent cold cuts. At the end of the village
a detour, indicated by signs, leads in less than a kilometer to the Castle
of Poppiano, [Figure 22 Detail of the Castello di Poppiano, p. 311], [Figure
23 Castello di Poppiano, p. 312] historic mansion erected at the end of
the first millennium as the external defense of Florence and owned
by Francesco Guicciadini, still belonging to the same family today. It
produces excellent olive oil and superb wines (Chianti Colli Fiorentini,
we are outside the Black Rooster area). Guided tours to the castle and
cellars are possible with a reservation required two business days in
73
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Itineraries from San Casciano
advance. For information, contact Mrs Janine Huwiler tel. 055 82 315
or 331 3314129, [email protected]. It is possible of course to
buy wine and oil produced in the castle. Going back to San Pancrazio,
where you can visit the ancient Parish Church (see opening hours at
APT San Casciano) the road is splendid and its ridge divides the Pe-
sa and Virginio valleys. Visited the church you can choose what to do,
if you turn right you head to Montespertoli and Certaldo, turning left
you return towards San Casciano, the distance is about 6 kilometers.
You might stop at the Ponte Rotto for a snack or dinner if the Osteria is
open, or dine at the nearby pizzeria La Botte on the Pesa banks, thus
dividing your itinerary in two days. If instead you continue straight, you
head towards Tavarnelle, continuing to admire the splendid views. Be-
yond the village of Santa Cristina in Salivolpe, turning right into Via di
San Vito you will find the Corzano e Paterno dairy. Going straight, after
the junction for the village of Pergolato, on the right we find Giovanni-
no Nieuddu. Proceeding we arrive at the hamlet of Romita and shortly
after you will find the junction that leads to Tavarnelle and Barberino
Val d’Elsa, reachable in a few minutes.
74
Itinerary C
shortly afterwards turn left for the small and panoramic Via Panaretta
that will lead you to the castles of Panaretta and Monsanto. However
whichever route you choose to take, Barberino and its surroundings
are well worth a visit.
The historic center with its walls and its ancient gates, Porta Senese
and Porta Fiorentina, the Palazzo del Cardinale with the emblem of
the Barberini family that gave birth to Pope Urbano VIII, the Ospedale
dei Pellegrini, the church and its parvis where it is possible to admire
a magnificent panorama, perhaps sitting at the table of the adjacent
restaurant or pizzeria (Ristorante Archibugio and Osteria Campanel-
lino). Outside the village, well indicated, you can visit the nearby town
of Petrognano, the Pieve di San Appiano, and the Castles of Panaret-
ta and Monsanto. In Petrognano there is a magnificent restaurant (Il
Paese dei Campanelli); past Petrognano, after 1-2 kilometers, you ar-
rive at the chapel of San Michele Arcangelo in Semifonte, the chapel
is almost always closed but it is sited in a pleasant place. From there
a small road takes you to Certaldo in double-quick time. The territo-
ry of Barberino Val d’Elsa is very close to San Gimignano and Siena,
easily reachable street the Florence-Siena in about half an hour. As
mentioned, this itinerary can last two days, the distances between
the various places are minimal and can be divided into two parts
without changing hotels or holiday farm. If you however are staying in
San Casciano, you do not need to follow the road to Cerbaia and move
from San Quirico in Collina. There are three options available: the first,
go to Tavarnelle along the Via Cassia, the second take the Via Certal-
dese, and once arrived in the village of San Pancrazio turn left at the
intersection next to the Parish Church. The third, and the fastest, take
the Firenze-Siena freeway and exit at Tavarnelle.
Itinerary C
San Casciano → Mercatale Val di Pesa → Panzano in
Chianti → Greve in Chianti → Montefioralle
DURATION 1 DAY
75
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA Itineraries from San Casciano
Starting from San Casciano take Via Grevigiana, go past the village of
Mercatale Val di Pesa and follow the route towards Greve-Panzano:
arrived at the crossroads of the four roads go straight on following
the indication Panzano; you will take a long route, 11 kilometers, but
the road is ravishing. Once you get to the ancient village of Panzano
you can visit the church of Santa Maria dell’Assunta, enshrining inside
a painting of the Annunciation by Michele di Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio.
Within walking distance from the village there are, close to one an-
other, the Pieve di San Leolino with two tabernacles by Giovanni della
Robbia (to make a visit to ring the bell) and the oratory of San Eufrosi-
no, open only in the occasion of exhibitions or concerts but placed in
an extraordinary location named “La Conca d’Oro di Panzano”. In the
village every Sunday morning there is a lively market and there are al-
so three excellent restaurants: La Cantinetta Sassolini, Oltre il Giardi-
no and Solo Ciccia, the last one managed by the famous butcher Dario
Cecchini, surely the most known personality of Panzano: in addition
to managing the restaurant which serves first-class meat courses,
also runs the old adjacent butchery where you can buy great meat
and excellent homemade cold cuts. Taking the road towards Florence,
after a few kilometers it will lead us to Greve in Chianti, relaxed and
charming hamlet marked by the typical and characteristic triangular
shape square with its arcades and the shops framing the square itself.
Here take place the most important social events, from the feast of
wine at the weekly market on Saturdays, to antiques market etc. (see
all events in the space provided by the municipality of Greve). In the
middle of the square there is a statue of Giovanni da Verrazzano, and
at its end there is the beautiful Church of Santa Croce that right inside
contains a beautiful triptych of the xiv century, a Madonna with Child
by Neri di Bicci, a fourteenth century Annunciation and a wooden
Crucifix of 1500. In front of the Giovanni da Verrazzano statue stands
the Antica Macelleria Falorni, unmissable place that sells meat cuts
of Chianina breed and Cinta Senese breed and delicious homemade
cured meats and sausages. In a few minutes you will find the cellars
of Greve, an insight into the world of the Black Rooster where you can
make wine tastings by the “Wine Card”. Exiting from Greve by taking
76
Itinerary C
the small street of Zano you get to the splendid and ancient Pieve di
San Cresci that houses a painting of the Virgin of the Rosary, work
of 1650 by Francesco Boldrini. Once past by the Pieve, following the
signs you can arrive at Montefioralle: this ancient fortified village is
probably one of the most ancient in Chianti and is still today enclosed
within its original walls: the oldest testimony of Montefioralle dates
back to 1085. It was classified one of the most beautiful hamlets in
Italy. Formerly under his wing grew and developed the town of Greve.
The town developed around the highest part that corresponds to the
ancient feudal settlement. Developing around the ancient castle the
village took a plant of elliptical shape composed of a radial road from
which unfold of alleys all leading to the feudal formwork. The walls
were octagonal in outline, with four gates, modifications of which still
exist. During the Middle Ages it was one of the greatest military and
administrative centres of the area. It belonged to the families Ricasoli,
Benci, Gherardini and Vespucci. In 1325 it was sacked by Castruccio
Castracani. Here was the birthplace of the last descendant of Amer-
igo Vespucci, who beared the same first name of his ancestor (see
description village of Montefioralle Greve in Chianti). The alleyways
paved irregularly and arranged radially, still today reveal the ancient
military attitude of the village. A must-see is the Church of Santo Ste-
fano that inside enshrines an impressive painting of the Madonna
with Child. Although this is an amazing work, experts have not been
able to credit the painting to a certain authorship. Two good places to
eat, La Taverna del Guerrino, very panoramic, and La Castellana. Going
past Montefioralle you can visit, if you have not already done it by tak-
ing the other road, the Pieve di San Cresci; then going back to the road
you’ve already travelled to go to Panzano, you should turn right to-
wards Mercatale and San Casciano, and after a few kilometers you will
find a crossroads: turn right towards Greve and after two kilometers
on the right, well signaled upward, appears the Castello di Gabbiano.
When you have finished your visit going back and turning right at the
previous intersection you get back to Mercatale and San Casciano.
77
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
78
Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings
79
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
Tuesdays at lunch). The castle offers the choice to stay both in the
11 rooms or in the cozy apartments in the farmhouses of the prop-
erty. We suggest you enjoying the beautiful swimming pool and the
vast garden where breakfast is served when the weather is good. On
request, you can visit the ancient cellars of the castle. To reach it:
highway Firenze-Siena exit San Casciano, go beyond the village and
follow the signs Mercatale Val di Pesa, Greve, passed by Mercatale
continue for 4 km towards Greve. As an alternative, at the Firenze
Impruneta exit take the highway to Siena, exit at the first exit, Im-
pruneta, continue straight towards Greve passing Falciani and Fer-
rone, after the latter near the Grevepesa Cellars turn right towards
Mercatale, arrival at destination after about 2 km. The property al-
so features classic double rooms and beautiful, perfectly equipped
apartments of various sizes. wi-fi free, pets allowed fee-paying.
BED & BREAKFAST ART Via della Volta 6, tel. 055 8290372. In the
heart of San Casciano, within the ancient walls, this B&B is locat-
ed in a perfectly restored former Benedictine convent. Impeccably
managed by Letizia and Raffaella, two nice girls, has double rooms,
also for single use, triple rooms and two apartments with kitchen-
ette. The air-conditioned rooms have satellite tv, private bathroom,
linen change is weekly, towels are changed every three days. To reach
it, take the Florence-Siena, exit at San Casciano: when you arrive in
the town, go around the walls taking the tree-lined avenue. Stop in
Piazza della Repubblica, on the right side next to the walls (attention
parking there is prohibited). Go past the gate, the B&B is on the oth-
er side of the street. wi-fi free, small pets allowed. The restaurants
and shops of the village are just a few minutes walk away.
LE DIMORE DI MEZZA COSTA Via Borromeo 67, tel. 055 828692.
Beautiful, elegant and cared for B&B flawlessly managed by Fabrizio
and Vincenzo, immersed in the countryside with beautiful views of
the hills of Chianti and Val di Pesa, just 2.5 km far from San Cas-
ciano. Beautiful and tidy rooms (if free ask for the blue room), all
equipped with mini bar and flat screen tv, excellent breakfast buffet
served, in summertime, on the beautiful panoramic terrace, where
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Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings
sometimes you can enjoy delicious lunches and dinners (ask for in-
formations from the managers). The property offers: gym, fee-paying
spa, which must be booked, wi-fi free, pets allowed. The restaurants
of Bargino, Ponte Rotto and San Casciano are nearby. To reach it,
cross San Casciano taking the road to the Ponte Rotto, after about 2
km follow the sign Calzaiuolo, the B&B is on the corner. You are a
stone’s throw from San Casciano, Bargino and Ponte Rotto, and in
matter of restaurants you will be spoiled for choice.
RELAIS POGGIO BORGONI Via Cassia per Siena 35, tel. 055 8228119.
Beautiful structure set in an enchanting landscape, lies about 2 km
from San Casciano. The relais has a beautiful pool surrounded by
olive trees, a panoramic terrace, elegant rooms with air conditioning,
mini bar, private bathroom with complimentary toiletries. Breakfast
is à buffet with a selection of sweet and savory, fresh fruit. For meals
you can take advantage of the excellent hotel-restaurant “Osteria il
Poggio” where bread and pasta are homemade; you could also taste
a selection of wines of their own production. As an alternative, the
nearby restaurants of Ponte Rotto, Bargino or San Casciano. To get
there: exit at Firenze Impruneta, take the Firenze-Siena highway, exit
at San Casciano and continue towards the town, pass it following the
signs for Siena, and you will arrive after about 2 km. Excellent value
for money. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
TENUTA DEL PALAGIO OR VILLA PIAN DEI NOCI Via di Campoli 104,
tel. 055 821630. At a short distance from the castle of Palagio and the
Parish Church of Santo Stefano in Campoli, an elegant structure in
an enchanting scenery. It has elegant apartments with 2,4,6 beds and
a beautiful swimming pool. They organize tastings based on cheeses,
cured meats and wines, and sometimes they serve brunches. wi-fi free,
pets allowed.
CASTELLO IL PALAGIO Via di Campoli 124/126, tel. 340 8111121/
3362299889. Set on the beautiful hills between Mercatale and Mon-
tefiridolfi, this ancient castle, an impregnable pillar of the ancient
defensive belt of Florence, is today a successful farm offering tourists
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SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
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Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings
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SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA
such as the Colorino del Corno or the Malvasia di Santa Lucia and
an excellent and high-quality extra virgin olive oil. The inside Restau-
rant Corno DiVino prepares excellent old traditional and regional
dishes of the “poor” kitchen up to Renaissance cooking. Here you
will spend very relaxing holidays, sun baths or swimming in one of
the pools surrounded by a big park; beautiful the double and triple
rooms, and the perfectly equipped two and three-room apartments,
that have been restored taking great care to preserve their original
structure, materials and furniture, with wooden beams and terracot-
ta floors. Excellent breakfast served buffet style, that you can enjoy
while admiring a breathtaking landscape. To reach it, take the Firen-
ze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano and take the Via Certaldese.
When you arrive at the village of San Pancrazio, turn left towards
Tavarnelle, you will be at your destination in a few minutes. wi-fi
free. Pets Allowed. Nearby there are the restaurants of Ponte Rotto.
B&B MACHIAVELLI Via Machiavelli 20. Splendid B&B in an
elegant building on the central Via Machiavelli in San Casciano.
Mrs. Giovanna beautifully manages this single apartment with a
loft room, cozy, charming, elegant, which can accommodate 2+2
people. Super value for money, wi-fi free. To reach it, take the Fi-
renze-Siena highway, exit at San Casciano and reach the town: at
the traffic light after the Eni gas station turn right into the tree-
lined avenue and park. The B&B is in the right hand street at the
end of the avenue.
AZIENDA AGRICOLA LA BRUSCOLA Via di Pisignano 16, tel.
055 828450 /338 2806735. Beautiful structure located on a road that
divides two valleys, very quiet, beautiful surrounding panoramas.
Very close to San Casciano. At disposal of the guests there are beau-
tiful rooms with use of kitchen. The Azienda Agricola produces ex-
cellent wines, not to be missed The Chianti Classico Stibbio Riserva,
the vinsanto still produced with handcrafting methods. The latter is
produced in limited quantities and may not be available. To get there,
take the Florence-Siena and exit at San Casciano, cross the village and
take the Via Empolese towards Cerbaia, turn right towards Pisigna-
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Where to stay in San Casciano and surroundings
no, the Azienda Agricola is a few hundred meters from the intersec-
tion. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
B&B LA TANA DI FRAGOLO Via di Pergolato 4/i, tel. 055 8249277.
Nice Bed & Breakfast on the hills above the village of Bargino, with
a beautiful panoramic view also on the new Antinori cellars. The
air-conditioned property has only one cozy double room, a cradle
can be added on request, the entrance is independent. Nice garden,
excellent breakfast. Good value for money. To reach it, take the Flor-
ence-Siena, exit at the Bargino, turn left and after the village turn
right into Via di Pergolato and you will reach the Bed & Breakfast
after 1.5 km. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
HOTEL CALZAIOLO Via Cassia per Siena 32, tel. 055 8249009.
Placed at the center of beautiful hills, about 3 km far from the ad-
ministrative center, recently renovated, this hotel offers lovely and
comfortable air-conditioned rooms with private bathroom. It is sit-
ed near the Antinori cellars, Badia a Passignano, the restaurants of
Bargino, Ponte Rotto and San Casciano. Bus tickets to Florence and
other locations are available at the reception. To reach it by car, take
the Florence-Siena, exit at Bargino and turn left, the hotel is on the
road a few minutes away. Excellent value for money. wi-fi free.
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Excursions from San Casciano
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Excursions from San Casciano
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
On the map
88
89
GREVE IN CHIANTI
Historical outline
The territory of Greve has ancient origins, already in the Mid-
dle Ages it was included in the Florentine county of the Diocese
of Fiesole. Formerly Greve was a small village in the plebarium
(the jurisdiction territory of a parish priest or the whole of the
faithful who belong to a parish church) of San Cresci di Montef-
icalle, the current Montefioralle. Being in a strategic position, at
the junction of an important crossroad that connected the ma-
jor access roads of the time, it was immediately conceived as a
market. Its history is closely linked to its commercial function;
at the center of the main square, today’s Piazza Matteotti (pre-
served nowadays almost identical to the medieval square), goods
were exposed while the loggias served as shelters for livestock.
This is recalled by its triangular shape, which traces the three
main routes (the Chiantigiana, the roads to the Valdarno and the
Val di Pesa), which were also important pilgrimage routes. Be-
ing at the center of this important road junction allowed Greve
to achieve a strong and rapid development; the businesses flour-
ished so quickly to obscure those of the nearby villages of Strada
and Rubbiana. Favored by the fact of being in the middle of a
densely populated area, rich in important churches and castles,
Greve began to increasingly converge the commercial interests of
the area. Important nearby castles, Montefioralle, Panzano, Lam-
ole and Lucolena, made the village their main point of reference.
As already mentioned, the ancient and beautiful square with its
elegant colonnades was the place devoted to the trading activ-
ities and is still today home to important events and the heart
of the village. The oldest settlement in Greve was situated on the
San Francesco hill, where a small monastic settlement would have
been built and developed around the convent and the main square.
Located half way between Florence and Siena Greve and all its
surrounding territory benefited from the extraordinary period of
cultural, artistic and economic growth of Tuscany’s two main cit-
ies. Moreover, the regular presence of many Florentine aristocrat
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Greve in Chianti today
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
Useful addresses
PHARMACIES
Farmacia Stecchi Via Cesare Battisti 22, tel. 055 853042.
ASL AND MEDICAL GUARD
• asl 10 polyclinic and Medical Clinic Via della Pace 18, tel.
055 854931.
• Grevigiano Volunteer Association Via della Pace 8, tel.
055 853258. Transport sick with doctor on board.
BANKS
• Banca Carige Via Vittorio Veneto 29, tel. 055 853580.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta Via Giuliotti 21-
23, tel. 055 8544974.
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Festivals and events
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
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Festivals and events
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
Food and…
UNICOOP SUPERMARKET Via Vittorio Veneto 76, open morning
and afternoon, closed on Sundays.
LA BOTTEGA DEL PANE Piazza Matteotti 89, tel. 055853859, in ad-
dition to an exquisite bread, it bakes excellent desserts.
ANTICA MACELLERIA FALORNI Piazza Matteotti 71, tel. 055 853029,
always open. Well visible in the square, behind the statue of Giovan-
ni da Verrazzano, this ancient shop seems to have been operational
since 1806 and that from 1890 it occupies its current position. It is,
rightly, one of the most renowned worlds of traditions and tastes
in the Chianti area. Today the store continues to keep an “ancient
bottega” atmosphere alive in every room, with its white marble
counters, wooden shelves, antique slicers and original utensils bear-
ing the signs of the business of the past. The permeating fragrance
of cured meats and the warm colours of the prosciutti hanging from
the ceiling complete the sensory experience. A successful restoration
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Food and…
has transformed, for the better, this already typical place. Now there
is a Bistro next to the shop, a sort of unconventional tasting room,
where you can enjoy mixed platters of cold cuts and cheeses of the
area (cheeses are stored in a crypt created under the dining room),
the typical “fettunte con l’olio novo” (toasted bread with “new oil”),
the sandwiches, the cream of chickpeas, the ribollita or the pappa al
pomodoro, the braised wild boar on toasted bread, the mixed stewed
with green sauce, the inevitable cantucci and vinsanto and taste the
wines, both those of the house or other labels using the Wine Card
as at the enoteca. All this at affordable prices, which become very
honest when considering the location. To try at least once.
VECCHIE CANTINE ENOTECA FALORNI Piazza delle Cantine 6, tel.
055 854363/055 8546404, 10.30 am to 8 pm, open from Easter to
mid-September/early October, in other months shorter opening
times, to find out more contact directly the wine shop. Enoteca Fa-
lorni is the largest enoteca in Tuscany featuring over 1,000 selected
wines with more than 100 wines available for tasting, and is locat-
ed underground in the historical centre of Greve. This structure,
with a total surface of 600 square meters. Entering, in the eyes of
the visitor materializes the magical world of the Black Rooster, you
see a mosaic of labels of the different producers and you realize
you are in an authentic temple to wine. As we said, inside there are
more than 1000 labels, 140 of them dedicated to the tasting, in addi-
tion there are the spaces dedicated to its majesty the Chianti, one is
reserved for white wines, a vault houses the other great Tuscan and
Italian wines (Tignanello, Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Brunello, Barolo etc.),
then there is a space for wines from further Italian regions as well as
sparkling wines, dessert wines, grappa and olive oil. Using a special
prepaid wine card you can experience a relaxing tasting journey,
with a minimum recharge of € 10, tasting all the desired wines
thanks to the presence of 13 enomatic tasting islands. A tasting itin-
erary is suggested inside the wine shop. The tasting of wines can
be combined with the excellent cutting boards with cold cuts, of
the homonymous butchery, and cheeses produced in the area. All
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
day long are served excellent small, medium, large cutting boards of
cold cuts, cheeses, special sandwiches, croutons, salads and tartares At
lunchtime, pappa al pomodoro, in spring, summer and autumn, while
the ribollita is served only in winter. Second courses: arista, stewed
wild boar, even salads, then the desserts: cantucci, zuccotti, sorbetti and
a special vinsanto ice cream with cantucci crumble produced by the
Vivoli ice-cream parlor in Florence. In addition to put itself forward
as a tasting point, the wine shop is increasingly turning to be a meeting
place where you can stop chatting or reading in absolute tranquility
in front of a good glass of wine, a coffee, a cocktail or a tasty chopping
board. Occasionally in concurrence with special events the wine shop
is open until late at night.
What to see
PIAZZA MATTEOTTI Center of the village life, meeting point
for inhabitants and tourists alike, its characteristic arched loggias
that once offered shelter to the cattle, today are the setting for the
square. This portico continues to serve as the frame for boutique
shops, artisan workshops and restaurants. It hosts many shops,
of all kinds, restaurants, shops and handcraft shops that sell local
products. Among these: the Antica Macelleria Falorni, La Botte-
ga dell’Artigianato where hand-woven wicker and willow baskets
are found, olive wood objects, hand-painted ceramics, Landi An-
tichità, next to the Logge bar, sells antique and handcrafted rustic
furniture and wrought-iron products. In the opposite arcades there
are two beautiful handcrafted embroidery shops, Giachi Grazia
and just beyond Valoriani embroideries. On the opposite end of
the square from the government building, is the beautiful Santa
Croce Church: on the site where there was a small medieval chapel
it was demolished at the beginning of the last century to make way
for new construction. Enshrines precious works of art, the most
important are: fresco of the xiv century depicting the Madonna
with Child and a triptych by Neri di Bicci dating back to 1420, a
small table with the Annunciation, beautiful work of the 1300’s of
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What to see
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
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What to see
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
was born in Florence and later moved to Seville where he died in 1512
[Figure 29 Montefioralle, p. 315]. The plaque recalls that this house was
the dwelling of the last descendant of the Vespucci family, who bore
the name of the great explorer and is buried in the small cemetery of
the village. His tomb is still a pilgrimage destination for many Amer-
ican tourists who pay homage to the last member of the family who
discovered the new world. The walls, perfectly preserved alternating
with towers, are dated between the xiii and the xiv century. To visit
the Church of Santo Stefano, patron saint of the village, is in Gothic
style even if it presents some baroque elements due to the restoration
of the xiv-xiii century. Inside it collects works of painters dated be-
tween the xv and the xvii century. Inside, a single nave houses sev-
eral valuable works. Saint Michael Archangel, Jacopo, Stefano and
Domenico, a painting by Orazio Fidani dated 1647; depicting the
Annunciation and Saints of the Master of Sant’Ivo and dated be-
tween 1395 and 1400; the most valuable work, the panel of the Ma-
donna and Child of the so-called Master of Montefioralle.
Where to eat
In addition to the countless facilities that offer catering, we provide
a list of some restaurants in Greve.
RISTORANTE DA VERRAZZANO OR LOCANDA DI GREVE [€€] Piazza
Matteotti 28, tel. 055 853189, opening hours: from the end of March
to October 12 am-3 pm and 7.30-10 pm, in the remaining months it
is open with the same opening times but is closed on Sundays for
dinner and on Mondays. Historic restaurant in Greve, The Giovan-
ni da Verrazzano Restaurant can seat 80 people inside and has a fur-
ther 50 places available on the terrace overlooking the magnificent
main square in Greve in Chianti. Adjacent to the da Verrazzano
hotel, it offers a warm hospitality, combining a love of gastronom-
ic traditions with a special regard to giving a comfortable and up-
to-date welcome to visitors: a beautiful place that adds value to the
tastiness of food, here the fries are made only with extra virgin olive
oil. Maybe the prices are medium high but, given the quality of the
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Where to eat
food, are normal. Among the dishes we point out: ribollita, pappar-
delle with wild boar sauce and duck “porchetta” style.
RISTORANTE IL PORTICO Piazza Matteotti 83, tel. 055 8547426,
opening hours: from April to the end of October 12 am-2.30 pm
and 6-10 pm, closed on Wednesdays. From November to the end
of March, closed on Wednesdays, open only for lunch except Fri-
days, Saturdays and Sundays in which it maintains the same open-
ing hours: 12 am-2.30 pm and 6-10 pm. Typical and welcoming
family-run restaurant, offers its customers dishes based on fish and
typical Tuscan cuisine, among these to mention pappardelle with
wild boar sauce and pennette with the scent of Chianti Classico,
the fillet of meat with lardo di Colonnata and the inevitable Flo-
rentine steak. Excellent wine list, affordable prices, a good place.
ENOTECA DEL GALLO NERO Via Cesare Battisti 9, tel. 055 853734,
closed on Thursdays, open all the other days for lunch and dinner
12 am-3 pm and 6.30-10 pm. Located at the crossroads leading
into Piazza Matteotti this welcoming restaurant serves its guests
the typical Tuscan menu: the ribollita, the pappardelle with wild
boar sauce and of course the grilled meats with inevitable “Floren-
tine” steak deserve a special mention. Prices in the standard.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA LA CANTINA Piazza Trento 3, tel. 055 854097,
open from April to mid-November every day from 9 to 12 pm,
mid-November, December and March same opening hours but is
closed on Tuesdays, from January 7th to the end of February closed
for holidays. Perfectly restored, this beautiful restaurant pizzeria “La
Cantina” was born out of the historic premises which many years pre-
viously had been the coal house of the old steam railway that passed
through the Chianti hills linking Greve to Florence; today it serves
good pizzas, second courses based on fish, meat and tasty homemade
desserts. The restaurant organizes cooking classes and serves glu-
ten-free dishes and is a member of the aic, Italian Celiac Association.
TRATTORIA D’I BORGO Via D. Giuliotti, tel. 320 0731455, closed
on Fridays, open all other days 10.30 am-10 pm. A few steps from
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GREVE IN CHIANTI
104
Bars and ice cream parlors
(Casa del Popolo) of Greve, to get there turn at the traffic light of
the road with the indication Figline, A1, then past the bridge on
Greve turn right: the restaurant is 50 meters from the intersec-
tion. Here you can enjoy pasta, pizzas, meat at good prices, good
cuisine. Large parking in front of the place.
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Near Greve in Chianti
Panzano in Chianti
Delightful and ancient village with the name of Roman origins
(however the Etruscan finds found in the area suggest something
even more ancient). The first important documentation dates back
to the xi century when the village developed around the castle. Lo-
cated on top of a hill almost 500 meters high, which separates the
valleys of the two main rivers of Chianti: the Greve and the Pesa.
Panzano is halfway between Florence and Siena, but this was not a
fortunate circumstance for the village that, being on the border be-
tween Florence and Siena, was repeatedly the scene of fierce clashes
between the two belligerent cities. In fact, its castle, fundamental
hub of the Florentine defense system, was destroyed twice, in 1260
and 1397. The period of misfortune continued in the xv and xvi
centuries when its control has passed several times from one city to
another with further looting and destruction. Of the ancient town
are still visible most of the old walls, and the antique medieval cen-
ter that revolves around the church of Santa Maria Assunta and its
beautiful surrounding alleys. A tip for those arriving by car, if you
do not find a place to park continue to the provincial road 118, the
one to San Leolino, and you will find, well signposted, a large park-
ing lot; a very short walkway will lead you later in the old village of
Panzano.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Dottor Coriglione Via della Conca d’Oro 17, tel.
055 852023.
• Misericordia Via Giovanni da Verrazzano 60, tel. 055 852251.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena Piazza Bucciarelli, tel. 055 8520121.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta Via Chiantigiana
64, tel. 055 85292.
• Post Office Via xx Luglio 1, tel. 055 852549.
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Panzano in Chianti
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GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
WHERE TO EAT
• Ristorante solo ciccia e Antica macelleria Cecchini [€€] Via
xx Luglio 11, tel. 055 85272/055 852020, time: lunch at 1 pm,
dinner at 8 pm steak menu, 2 rounds at 7.00 pm and 9.00 pm
for menus with platters and barbecues. The Officina has a 50 eu-
ros per person fixed menu. Not to be missed, closed during the
Christmas period, always open for lunch and dinner on other
periods. This characteristic place is managed by Dario Cecchini,
a volcanic figure, well-known in the Chianti area and beyond.
He is the butcher poet, declaims Dante and the verses of the Di-
vine Comedy, on the shirts of the waiters is reported the famous
verse written by Dante “abandon hope all ye who enter”. During
the mad cow disease he celebrated the funeral of the Florentine
steak. A formidable promoter of the territory and of Tuscany.
In the adjoining butchery sells excellent and delicious meats,
here is placed the reception of the restaurant offering guests an
aperitif. In the restaurant the meat is the lion’s share, the steak is
sublime, the other meat used for grilling is fantastic. Exquisite
cutting boards with cold cuts and cheeses are also served.
• Cantinetta Sassolini Piazza Ricasoli 2, tel. 055 8560142, open-
ing hours: closed on Wednesdays, the other days open for lunch
and dinner 12 am-3 pm and 7-9 pm. Nice restaurant in the his-
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Panzano in Chianti
109
GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
is relaxed. Those who stop just for snack will not be disappoint-
ed, here you can taste good sandwiches filled with delicious
cured meats. The shop is on the main road of the village, road
that connects Panzano to Radda.
• La bottega di Carla Castello di Volpaia, Piazza della Torre 1,
tel. 0577 738001, open for lunch 12.30 am-2 pm and for dinner
7-10.30 pm, closed on Tuesdays. In winter open for lunch and
dinner until January, then closed until mid-March. Beautiful
restaurant, which is also a food shop, in a small enchanted vil-
lage where time seems to stand still, in the summer you can
eat outside under a beautiful pergola admiring the amazing
surrounding landscape. Excellent traditional Chianti and
Tuscan cuisine, mentioned in numerous specialized maga-
zines, among which the Michelin guide, good value for mon-
ey, definitely worth trying. In front of the restaurant, Carla’s
sister runs a nice Wine Bar, where sitting comfortably you can
admire the wonderful little square tasting wines and making
excellent snacks.
Lamole
Small, delightful village about 600 meters above sea level, one of
the many where time seems to stand still. Because of its peculiarities
it is a candidate to become a historical landscape of Italy. Crossed
by two narrow streets that connect three tiny squares, this quiet
village has a restaurant (The Lamole restaurant, good panoramic
and expensive), a small church of the xiii century where classical
music concerts are held from July to September (for more infor-
mation contact the Tourist Information Office in Piazza Matteotti
in Greve in Chianti), and a small grocery store. The road that, past
Greve, climbs to Lamole is a truly spectacular, and offers fantastic
visions on panoramas, old villas and perfectly restored farmhouses.
The origin of the name is not clear, perhaps derives from the word
“la mola”, grindstone, referring to the outcropping rock on which
the castle is built. This was erected on a buttress above the valley of
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Looking for a different Chianti
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GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
less evident, there are no works of art to admire, there is only to fill
your eyes looking at the harmony and the beauty created by nature.
In fact there are extensive woods, small villages with very few resi-
dents and the vineyards that so much characterize the territory are
not the primary component of the landscape. But this is absolutely
a way you should go, you will see the most rugged and wild part of
Chianti, you will merge yourself in the atmosphere of the past and
you will find excellent and cheap restaurants to stop. Definitely a
day well spent. Here is what you will see.
Castello di Mugnana Placed in a strategic position on the ancient
Roman road of the Val di Cintoia, connecting the Chianti to the
Valdarno and Arezzo. This was an important means of communi-
cation, due also to the presence of a Roman bridge near Ponte agli
Stolli (Stolli Bridge) and castles such as Mugnana and Sezzate, on
the opposite hill, that controlled all comings and goings. The tower
and the walls of the castle were built at the beginning of the tenth
century by the Lombards Its strategic position made it the most
important fortress, first for the Lega di Cintoia (Cintoia League)
and later, for the defense of Florence. It was within the castle’s walls
that in 1198 an agreement was reached that gave birth to Lega To-
scana (The Tuscan League). [Figure 33 Castello di Mugnana, p. 317].
Cintoia
After passing the castle of Mugnana you reach after a few minutes
the tiny village of Cintoia: this village has played a role of great
historical importance. In its castle, today almost completely de-
stroyed, was established in 1300the League of Cintoia and Rob-
biana, which would then join the League of Greve forming the
podesteria, ancestor of the current municipality. Continuing and
passing the small hamlet La Panca the road begins to descend and
after a few kilometers you reach the small village of Lucolena. Con-
tinuing towards the Panca you will find the pizzeria Il cielo, a nice
place to stop [Figure 34 Sunset on Cintoia, p. 317].
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Cintoia
113
GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
Lucolena
This tiny village, where recent excavations have brought to light
Etruscan finds unearthed under the castrum and now exposed in the
special section of the Museum of Sacred Arts in Greve, was built on
the remains of the ancient castle. Here on the main square is the Arci
Society, run by volunteers, you can stop for dinner, on Sundays you
can also have lunch, enjoying appetizers, pasta, pizzas and desserts.
Cheap prices. Here takes place (inquire well on the dates at the tour-
ist information offices), two beautiful parties, the Festival of schiac-
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San Polo in Chianti
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GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
116
Strada in Chianti
it takes its name from the old post house, excellent cuisine, honest
prices, to taste pici with duck ragu. To get there, turn right at the
junction with the post office in the center of the village.
Strada in Chianti
Crossed by the Via Chiantigiana this town boasts a remarkable art
work inside the Church of San Cristoforo: it is a wooden Crucifix
of 1440 by Neri di Bicci. The restoration of 1990 brought to light
an apse of the year 1000 under the current high altar. On the third
Sunday of September takes place the Country Fair, Strada is divided
into five districts, in the past horse races were organized, but today
the districts compete in a carousel, a series of games ranging from ta-
ble football to the tournament of trump (Briscola), five-a-side foot-
ball and volleyball. The competition starts on Monday and ends on
Saturday, on Sunday there is a parade of the districts that seek to ex-
cel with the most beautiful carts. At the end the winning district is
proclaimed and awarded with the Cencio dell’Orcio. Food stalls are
also running here for the duration of the party. In the village there
are some excellent restaurants: Il Caminetto del Chianti, the Padel-
lina restaurant and the Circolo Arci where the Festival of Frattaglie
takes place in March and November, in addition to traditional dish-
es, those poor foods that have had so much importance, and they
have, in Tuscan cuisine, tripe and lampredotto.
USEFUL ADDRESSES
• Farmacia Dottor Rosini Via Palmiro Togliatti 3a, tel. 055 858002.
• Carabinieri Station Piazza Enrico Landi 16, tel. 055 858004.
• Post Office Via Giuseppe Mazzini 1, tel. 055 8588894.
• Banca Credito Cooperativo di Impruneta Via G. Mazzini
131, tel. 055 8572347.
• Monte dei Paschi di Siena Piazza Landi 18, tel. 055 858014.
117
GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
ily opened their first store in the nearby town of San Polo in 1856.
Since then the family tradition has continued uninterrupted to the
present day, delighting the palates of its customers with excellent
and tasty meats and superb cured meats. But this place is also some-
thing else, it is takeaway gastronomy, delicious the ribollita and the
pappa al pomodoro, but of course you can taste cold cuts and meat
dishes. Furthermore, it organizes a wonderful aperitif every Mon-
day, if you are interested, ask by phone or on the Facebook page.
• Antico Pastificio Fabbri Piazza Landi 18, tel. 055 858013. This
ancient pasta factory was born in the heart of Chianti in 1893.
Since then the Fabbri family has started a qualitative path that
is constantly evolving and has reached the present day. Current-
ly, products of absolute excellence are processed, the result of a
process that has technically evolved but has maintained strict
quality criteria. Almost exclusively Tuscan grains are processed
and the production processes take place under the threshold of
38°C, so to have a finished product it can take up to six days
of drying. Among many excellences we will mention two of
them; pasta with antique wheat, Senatore Cappelli, and coco-
nut spelled pasta, certified organic. Those interested in visiting
the pasta factory can call the number above.
118
Go for castles and cellars
119
GREVE IN CHIANTI Near Greve in Chianti
Other things to do
TOURISTIC NATURALISTIC GUIDE MARCANTONIO PIACENTI tel. 328
6124658. Organizes excursions to the various villages, routes on foot,
by bicycle and along the paths.
HORSES AND CARROTS IN GREVE IN CHIANTI tel. 055 853189. Orga-
nizes tours to discover the landscapes around Greve, or to farms with
visits and tastings in farmhouses and wineries.
STEDOP (van rental with driver) tel. 335 431513. Organizes ex-
cursions to the most famous places of Chianti and the nearby cities
of Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo. Virtually all reach-
able within an hour or so by car.
120
Itineraries from Greve in Chianti
Itinerary A
Greve → Montefioralle → Badia di Passignano
→ Sambuca Val di Pesa
DURATION 1 DAY
This itinerary will take you to admire some of the most beautiful sights
in the Chianti area. Starting from Piazza Matteotti turn left, a panoram-
ic road will lead you in a few minutes to the beautiful medieval village
of Montefioralle, here you can visit the beautiful Church, walk the old
streets, admire the landscape and the views that are presented before
you. After the visit continue to the provincial road 118, turn right at the
first intersection, after a few hundred meters you will come across the
ancient church of San Cresci. Then continue the march in the direc-
tion of the provincial 118 turning right towards Mercatale-San Cascia-
no, at the first crossroads turn left towards the abbey Vallombrosana
of Badia a Passignano, stop to admire the view from above that goes
from the river Pesa to hills of Tavarnelle, left by the narrow road, you
will reach the abbey in a few minutes. Going forward you will cross the
provincial road 94 if you turn right yo go to Bargino and San Casciano,
turning left you will reach Sambuca Val di Pesa, stop to admire the
old Roman bridge on the Pesa, next to the bridge there is the Francini
butchery, a good place where to stop for lunch, honest prices. From
Sambuca in 3 km you can get to the beautiful village of San Donato in
Poggio, walk through the town and do not miss the beautiful Church
of Santa Maria delle Grazie, if you arrive at lunchtime and feel a certain
“languorino”, we recommend a stop at Locanda di Pietracupa. If you
want to visit Tavarnelle and Barberino Val d’Elsa, after Sambuca Val
di Pesa follow the signs for Tavarnelle, about 6 km away, here you can
admire the Pieve di San Piero in Bossolo, the tiny village of Tignano.
After the visit, going further, you will arrive in a few minutes to the
medieval village of Barberino with its beautiful old town enclosed in
beautiful and well-preserved walls.
121
GREVE IN CHIANTI Itineraries
Itinerary B
Greve → Panzano → Castello di Volpaia → Radda
DURATION 1-2 DAYS
A beautiful and interesting itinerary that will take you to some places
in the Sienese Chianti area. Starting from Greve, following the Chi-
antigiana road in the direction of Radda and Siena, you will reach
the ancient village of Panzano after 5 km, stop well worth it, enjoy a
beautiful view of the Greve valley and admire the old streets around
the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, visit the parish church of San Le-
olino and the Cecchini butcher shop, an authentic institution in the
town. After the visit continue to Radda in Chianti, you will find the
village of Lucarelli, if you pass here in the afternoon and you want to
have a snack stop at the workshop of Lucarelli (superb salamis and
delicious snacks), a little further ahead be careful on the left you will
find the indication Volpaia. Follow it and soon you will arrive in a tiny
enchanted village where time seems to have stopped. Lose yourself
in the tiny and deserted lanes, the visit lasts a few minutes, stop for
a break, in the square in front of the tower there is the restaurant the
shop of Carla, excellent with a beautiful pergola where you can dine
in summer. Not far away is the medieval village of Radda, located
on the ridge that acts as a watershed to the rivers Arbia and Pesa,
visit the Church of San Niccolò and the Palazzo del Podestà, walks
through the ancient streets. Nearby are Gaiole in Chianti, 5 km and
Badia Coltibuono ancient abbey transformed into a farm, residence
with an excellent restaurant, the place is very nice, it seems to be re-
ally out of this world. The former abbey can be visited every day from
May to October, however if you are interested in the visit, please call
0577 74481.
122
Historic Houses
Where to sleep
Historic Houses
|high prices|
VILLA VIGNAMAGGIO Via Petriolo 5, tel. 055 8546653. Ancient and
beautiful villa of the xiv century, set of numerous films (in 1993 Ken-
neth Branagh chose it to shoot his “Much Ado About Nothing”),
offers to its guests accommodation of blazing beauty immersed in
the Tuscan countryside, a truly dreamlike environment. Lisa Gherar-
dini came here to spend the summer, belonging to the ancient and
aristocratic Gherardini family, wife of the wealthy merchant Fran-
cesco del Giocondo, who became Prior of the Florentine Republic.
She is the very famous Monna Lisa portrayed in Leonardo da Vinci’s
Gioconda. Here you can stay, at an appropriate price, in the suite that
bears her name. Another tradition says that in the middle of the xvi
century, Vasari identified the woman in the painting as Monna Lisa
Gherardini (1479-1542), daughter of Anton Maria di Noldo Ghe-
rardini and wife of Francesco del Giocondo, from where the present
name of the painting, The Gioconda, is derived. Beautiful wineries
that can be visited combined with tasting and degustations. Mag-
nificent swimming pool and excellent spa with turkish bath. Ob-
viously high prices rising a bit if you choose to stay in the Monna
Lisa suite. wi-fi free, in the villa there is a great restaurant open for
lunch Monday to Friday and for dinner Monday, Wednesday and
Friday. How to get there: past the village of Greve, turn left follow-
ing the indications to Lamole, you will arrive in a short time. Near
the shops and restaurants of Greve and Panzano.
AGRITURISMO VILLA IL LECCIO Via Case sparse 35, Strada in Chi-
anti, tel. 055 8586103. Splendid home of the xviii century that be-
longed to the historic Landi family, to whom the main square of
Strada in Chianti is named. It features a beautiful swimming pool
and a well-kept garden. The elegant interiors are highlighted even
123
GREVE IN CHIANTI Where to sleep
more by the furniture, all antique. The hotel has a traditional restau-
rant, serving only typical dishes accompanied by olive oil and wine
produced in the area. Excellent breakfast, on request served in the
garden, based on sweet and savory products and freshly baked cakes.
Inside there is an ancient chapel perfectly restored. The agriturismo
is just 3 km from Ugolino golf and a few kilometers from Florence.
wi-fi free. To get there: take the A1 and exit at Firenze Sud, take the
S.S. 222 Chiantigiana in the direction of Greve, once arrived at Stra-
da in Chianti follow the signs Agriturismo il Leccio, you will arrive
in a few minutes.
VILLA LE BARONE Via San Leolino 19, Panzano, tel. 055 852621.
This beautiful and luxurious hotel, nested in the Tuscan country-
side, is an old villa of the xvi century; the Villa, which has belonged
to the Della Robbia family since the 16th century, has been turned
into a luxury hotel where guests can relax and resource themselves
away from the stress and hassle of city life. This warm and inviting
home, filled with character and historic features, provides all the
services and amenities you need for a genuinely relaxing break in
stunning surroundings. They boast an infinity, salt water and heat-
ed swimming pool, tennis court, fitness trail and offer relaxing ter-
races overlooking our lovingly tended rose gardens, the surround-
ing olive groves and vineyards. There are a number of cosy lounges,
with antique furniture, paintings, rare books and romantic objects
from the family’s past, where people can relax, and, in autumn, en-
joy reading by the fire place. Breakfast is buffet style, wi-fi free,
pets not allowed. Of course, the prices of the apartments and the
suites are different, if you are interested, inquire at the hotel or on
the website https://villalebarone.com. To arrive: past the village
of Greve, continue for about 6 km towards Panzano, just before
leaving the village turn left into Via San Leolino and you will ar-
rive after a few hundred meters, close to the structure the beautiful
church of San Leolino, reachable on foot.
CASTELLO DI VICCHIOMAGGIO Via Vicchiomaggio 4, tel. 055
854078. Historic 14th century castle located on top of a hill with
124
Historic Houses
125
GREVE IN CHIANTI Where to sleep
but do not worry you can eat at the nearby restaurants of Strada
and those of Greve, which are about 6 km away.
CASTELLO GINORI DI QUERCETO Via Francois 2, tel. 055 85921. Lo-
cated in the medieval village of Querceto [Figure 36 Castello di Quer-
ceto, p. 318], in the immediate vicinity of Dudda, this beautiful 1200
castle offers beautiful views and 12 excellent equipped apartments
that can accommodate 2 to 6 people. Lovely place, out of everything
but close to everything, beautiful swimming pool, lovely garden. On
request breakfast for € 6. You can visit the old cellars combined with
tastings of three wines, cheeses, fettunte, salami for € 10/15. Near the
castle, by the ancient Via Romana, there is an ancient watering hole,
probably also of Roman origin. Pets allowed on request, wi-fi free.
To get there: take the A1 exit at Incisa val D’Arno, go towards Fig-
line Val d’Arno and follow the signs for Lucolena and Dudda. The
castle has no restaurants but the Dudda little store awaits you for
delicious snacks and succulent meals at honest prices.
CASTELLO DI VERRAZZANO Via di Citille 32, tel. 055 854243. We
have included it in this price category, although these may be
slightly higher than average prices, because in our opinion there
is a value for money more than excellent. This ancient residence of-
fers its guests double rooms, triple rooms and apartments for 2 and 4
people, minimum stay 3 nights for the latter, perfectly furnished, of
great comfort and elegance. The internal tavern offers typical dishes
of traditional Tuscan cuisine. Guided tours to the historic cellars are
available, for tastings and food degustation, every day at 10 am and
at 3 pm, lasting about an hour and a half. There is also, from Monday
to Friday, at 11 am the Chianti tradition, a special visit with choice of
gastronomic specialties, tastings of great reserve wine and great vin-
tage, tour of the castle garden, lasting 2 hours and a half. Apartments:
the first day breakfast included, then on request €12 per person. wi-
fi free. To reach it: take the A1 motorway, exit at Florence Certosa
or fi Sud, follow the signs to Greve, arrived at the hamlet of Greti,
at the shop that sells the products of the castle, clearly visible on the
road, turn t right, you will arrive in a very short time.
126
Around Greve
Around Greve
|average prices|
AGRITURISMO LE TERRE DI BACCIO Via Case sparse 10, tel. 328 3952136.
Beautiful structure in ancient and characteristic farmhouse perfectly
restored, placed on a hill in the middle of a 20 hectares park, beauti-
ful surrounding views, beautiful and relaxing pool, which also offers
beautiful panoramas. Peculiar the rooms that combine the typical
Tuscan architecture and Guatemalan decor that creates an unusual
mix giving special atmospheres. The farm is very close to Greve, eas-
ily accessible on foot through the paths that run along the vineyards,
excellent breakfast taken care of directly by Ilaria, the owner of the
structure. Guests are welcomed in the classic double rooms, one also
with access for the disabled, apartments for 3/4/6 people, pets al-
lowed, wi-fi free.
AGRITURISMO LE CETINELLE Via Canonica 13, tel. 055 8544745
/338 7529582. Ancient and very quiet farmhouse, deep in the silence
of the Tuscan countryside, ideal for relaxation, is 5 km from Greve.
Perfectly renovated and beautifully managed by Simonetta and
Luca. Excellent breakfast, very nice rooms, the farm offers guests a
wonderful pool and a kitchen where you can prepare meals that can
be eaten outdoors. To reach it: when you get to Greve turn left at
the 3rd traffic light if you come from Florence, the 1st right coming
from Siena, after passing the Greve river follow the road to Mount
San Michele, turn right after 100 m, in corner there is a tower house,
continue along a narrow road, the last stretch of dirt road but per-
fectly accessible, and after 5 km you arrive at the farm. wi-fi free,
pets allowed.
B&B ANCORA DEL CHIANTI Location Collegale 12, tel. 055
854044/339 1587642. A beautiful agriturismo about 3 km from Greve,
it has double rooms, triple rooms and apartments for 4/6 people. In
a splendid panoramic position, the B&B provides guests with an
equipped kitchen to prepare meals. The excellent breakfast is served
on the beautiful terrace. wi-fi free, pets allowed. To reach it: arrived
127
GREVE IN CHIANTI Where to sleep
at the town of Greti, 3 km before Greve, past the sign to Greti, pay
attention to the sign indicating the farm, turn left into Via di Citille
(on the right coming from Siena), you will arrive after a few minutes.
Strada in Chianti
|average prices|
AGRITURISMO LA PRESURA Via della Montagnola 191, tel.
055 8587024 /328 2818835. Near Strada in Chianti, about 7 km from
Greve. This beautiful farmhouse located in an older farmhouse has a
beautiful swimming pool, a private lake where you can fish. It produc-
es wine and oil directly and periodically organizes tastings. It has eight
beautifully restored apartments that can accommodate 3 to 6 people.
It does not have a restaurant but if you want a short distance away the
Strada restaurants await you. wi-fi free, pets allowed. To arrive, along
the A1, exit at Firenze Sud, you will arrive in about 20 minutes, go to-
wards Greve, go past the village of Grassina. Just after passing the golf
Club of the Ugolino after 200 m on the right is the farm.
Greve center
|average prices|
ALBERGO CASA AL SOLE Viale Vittorio Veneto 82, tel. 055 8546429.
Small, nine rooms available, comfortable and clean family-run ho-
128
Greve center
tel just a few steps from the central Piazza Matteotti. It offers good
air-conditioned rooms with private bathrooms. wi-fi free, pets al-
lowed on request.
ALBERGO DEL CHIANTI Piazza Matteotti 36, tel. 055 853763. His-
toric hotel in the central Piazza Matteotti, with swimming pool
and beautiful double, triple, quadruple rooms, air-conditioned
with private facilities, overlooking the inner courtyard and the
square. Beautiful entrance to the hotel with poor art decor, inside
are organized tastings of wine, oil and grappa of handcrafted pro-
duction. wi-fi free, pets allowed.
ALBERGO GIOVANNI DA VERRAZZANO Piazza Matteotti 28, tel.
055 853189. Sited in the central Piazza Matteotti, the hotel has 10
double, triple and quadruple rooms; the hotel has also a restaurant
with a panoramic terrace on the square, beautiful, good, costs start-
ing from € 35 per person, wines not included. wi-fi free.
NELLA PIAZZA B&B Piazza Matteotti 50, tel. 366 5362547. This
delightful B&B, managed with care by Chiara and her mother, is
on the top floor of an old farmhouse and offers spectacular views
of the square. It has 4 bedrooms, three doubles and one triple room
(ask for the nicest, room 1), and a nice terrace on the back where
you can enjoy a delicious and abundant breakfast of homemade
desserts, savories, fruit and yogurt. The property also has a beauti-
ful kitchen that can be used by guests. wi-fi free.
129
Excursions from Greve in Chianti
130
Go to San Casciano
the provincial road 3 after passing the town of Greti in the di-
rection of Florence-San Casciano Via passo dei Pecorai. Passed
the village of Tavarnuzze at the junction of the A1 and the Flor-
ence-Siena take the sgc fi/si and continue to Scandicci, go in
Viale Nenni to the tram stop Nenni Torregalli, there are two
free parking exchanger and that of the Coop supermarket, the
tramway will take you in 20 minutes to the center of Florence.
Otherwise you have two alternatives; after the junction, in the
direction of Florence/Galluzzo, after 100 meters on the left
there is a parking lot, another is on the opposite side after about
200 meters, leave the car and go to the bus stop, number 37,
which is opposite to the parking lots. If you want to continue by
car, not advisable, you should get to the Piazza di Porta Roma-
na, go through the door and immediately turn left at the end of
the adjacent square by reversing, before leaving the door there
is a parking lot on the right that runs along the old walls, keep
in mind that parking costs € 2 for an hour (Warning: the traffic
light signals an electronic door that delimits the limited traffic
area, going beyond it with red means safe fine). Or look outside
the walls in Viale Petrarca or neighboring streets, which is not
easy. An alternative for the car can be represented by the parking
at the Parterre in Via Madonna della Tosse 9, tel. 055 50302209,
parking here costs € 10 for the whole day. If you are in the area
of Dudda, Lucolena or the Panca, it is best to go to Figline Val-
darno station and take one of the many trains (direct ride from
30 to 50 minutes cost € 5.50) to Florence Santa Maria Novella
which is in the center of Florence. Attention do not get off at
Florence Campo di Marte, you would be far from the center.
Go to San Casciano
You can use the directions of itinerary C from San Casciano to
Greve, p. 75. If you leave Greve, take the S.S. 222, Chiantigiana, in
th direction of Florence. At the junction that you find after Greti
continue straight towards San Casciano. When you reach the Gab-
131
GREVE IN CHIANTI Excursions from
biano bridge, where the wineries of the Grevepesa are located, turn
left towards Mercatale-San Casciano. Before Mercatale on the left
is the castle of Gabbiano, after passing the village in about 10 min-
utes you will be in San Casciano. Here you can choose what to do,
if you visit the capital, the new Antinori cellars, or Sant’Andrea in
Percussina, the last refuge of Machiavelli, or see all three things.
This itinerary is also feasible from Panzano, in this case it is better
to take the SP 118 up to Mercatale. Reaching San Casciano is easy
and fast if you are in the car or on the motorbike, if you are trav-
eling by coach you will have to redimension the itinerary and pay
attention to the timetable.
132
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
On the map
133
134
Historical outline
Historical outline
Located 378 m high, in the middle of the Chianti hills between
the valleys of the Pesa and Elsa rivers. About 34 km from Florence,
it borders the towns of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, Barberino Val
d’Elsa, to which it was united since 1982, Certaldo, Montespertoli
and Greve in Chianti. Its origins, common to most of the countries
in the entire area, date back to the Middle Ages, but the ancient
Tabernulae was never surrounded by walls because it had no strate-
gic-military importance. It was instead a very important commer-
cial center and an equally important stop and reception station for
pilgrims who wanted to reach the Via Francigena in Poggibonsi
and for those heading to Volterra. Its territory was crossed by the
important Roman road connecting Florence to Siena; in the medi-
eval period it was split into two important arterial roads. The first
one, the Via Francigena, reached Siena and then Rome; the other
shortened the journey to Siena crossing the Roman bridge in Sam-
buca Val di Pesa, San Donato in Poggio and Castellina in Chianti.
The first section of the Roman imperial road favored the develop-
ment of the villages of Tavarnelle, Borghetto and Mocale, which
became the most important built up areas of the Lega di Barbe-
rino; here rose the convent of Santa Lucia. This Gothic church –
now restored – constitutes the parish church of the capital.
Tavarnelle today
The current Tavarnelle is the unification of the three villages (Ta-
varnelle, Borghetto and Mocale). Developing its importance in
recent times, the municipal territory to which it belongs has been
detached from that of Barberino Val d’Elsa in recent times, in 1982.
Although not presenting particular attractions, it is a peaceful and
pleasant place to stay. Its countryside is beautiful, is in the middle of a
very beautiful area with many things to see. It borders with the towns
of Barberino Val d’Elsa, Greve in Chianti, San Casciano in Val di Pesa
and Certaldo. It is easily accessible with the sgc fi-si and might be
the starting point for numerous tours in and out of Chianti.
135
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
Useful addresses
PHARMACIES
• Farmacia Tanganelli Via del Mulino 13, tel. 055 8076555.
• Farmapesa Via del Giglio 22, tel. 055 8071043.
• Azienda Sanitaria Locale Via B. Naldini 44, tel. 055 693974.
MISERICORDIA Via B. Naldini, tel. 055 8076426.
PEDIATRIC SURGERY Via della Villa, tel. 055 8073161.
BANKS
• Chianti Banca Via Palazzuolo 60, tel. 055 8050174.
• Cassa di Risparmio Firenze Via Roma 65, tel. 055 805101.
POST OFFICE Piazza Matteotti 40, tel. 055 8077909.
CARABINIERI STATION Piazza Matteotti 30, tel. 055 8077003.
MUNICIPAL POLICE Via delle Fonti 16, tel. 055
8076392
/055 8075674.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Piazza Matteotti, tel. 055 8077832.
136
Food and…
Food and…
UNICOOP SUPERMARKET Via Giorgio La Pira 31, open 8 am-10
pm, Sunday 8.30-1.30 am.
ALIMENTARI STEFANELLA E FRANCO Via Roma 176, tel. 055 8077837.
YOU CHIANTI CULTURAL ASSOCIATION tel. 329 0907575. Contact
also Filippo: [email protected]. It is, as mentioned, a
cultural association, which also promotes companies and activ-
ities of the territory, mainly that of Tavarnelle. Among its pro-
motions: farms, events related to craftsmanship, hot air balloon-
ing and cycling, photographic exhibitions organized by Andrea
Guasti, local photographer, cooking classes (excellent the class on
homemade pasta), organized by Mrs. Wilma, well organized, ed-
ucational and fun.
What to see
PIEVE DI SAN PIETRO IN BOSSOLO Via della Pieve. This Church is
already mentioned in a document dated September 7, 998, but its
construction dates back to the xi century. The basilica has three
naves with semicircular apses, the façade is preceded by a large
portico while the original bell tower, of which remains a bell from
1290, was in a different position compared to the current one. The
three naves are divided by quadrangular pillars; entering the Pieve
you can see on the left a beautiful baptismal font of the year 1000
carved from a hexagonal monolith, on the same side you can find
the chapel of the Madonna delle Grazie, where there is a ciborium
in marble from 1522. In the beautiful internal portico in late me-
137
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
138
What to see
139
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
140
Where to eat in the surroundings of Tavarnelle
141
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
142
The surroundings of Tavarnelle
Passignano
ABAZIA DI SAN MICHELE ARCANGELO The place can be visited free
of charge, for information on opening hours contact the tourist of-
fice of Tavarnelle 055 8077832, but you can directly contact the friars
(phone 055 8071171) leaving an offer at the end of the visit, about 40
minutes; bear in mind that the monastery is closed on Thursdays.
Commonly called Badia a Passignano, inserted in a beautiful land-
scape is by far the place of greatest historical and artistic interest in
the surroundings of Tavarnelle [Figure 39 Badia a Passignano, p. 320].
The monastery dates back to the nineteenth century and belongs
to the Vallombrosana Congregation, a community of Benedictine
monks founded in Vallombrosa in 1039, it is likely that this choice
was influenced by Giovanni Gualberto native of the area, who died
here in 1073. The entitlement of the abbey to St. Michael the Archan-
gel suggests that this was founded in the Lombard period, given the
particular predilection of the Germanic people for the warrior an-
gel. The history of this structure is rather troubled, in fact, being in a
neighboring area between the cities of Florence and Siena has found
itself in spite of its will at the center of bitter disputes. It has been
destroyed several times, in particular in the mid-1200s by the Flo-
rentine troops, but it has always been rebuilt until it has reached to-
day’s form. It is currently surrounded by an imposing city wall, which
makes it look more like a castle than an abbey. This is due to the fact
that an owner of Polish origin had the abbey restored by providing
it with boundary walls and crenellated towers. In 1800 in fact the
monastery was subtracted from the monks and began to be used as a
stately villa, then returned to the friars only in 1986. Inside this beau-
tiful structure there is a church with a classic Latin cross shape, built
in 1266 after the umpteenth pyre developed inside the monastery,
and expanded in 1598 with the construction of three splendid cha-
143
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA The surroundings of Tavarnelle
pels: chapel of San Michele Arcangelo, the largest built in 1598 with
frescoes by Domenico Crespi called the Passignano because the orig-
inal of that village, under the dome are placed four plumes represent-
ing the cardinal virtues, prudence, fortitude, justice and temperance.
The chapel of San Giovanni Gualberto is placed to the left of the
chapel of San Michele Arcangelo, inside it houses the sepulcher of
San Giovanni Gualberto, the frescoes are work of Alessandro Allori,
known as Bronzino in honor of Agnolo di Cosimo di Mariano, his
great teacher. In addition to the frescoes in the chapel there are other
magnificent paintings and statues. On the right of the chapel of San
Michele Arcangelo is the chapel dedicated to Saints Sebastian and
Atto, inside, in addition to the frescoes, there is a beautiful Crucifix
of 1500 that, according to some testimonies, would have performed
some miracles. The frescoes tell the life of the saints. The coronation
of the Virgin is depicted on the vault. All the paintings are the work
of the Florentine painter Benedetto Veli. If the external aspect does
not suit a monastery, inside in addition to the three chapels there is a
crypt that was part of the ancient abbey dating back to the year 1000.
Wonderful the Cloister of 1400 [Figure 41 Kiosk of Badia a Passignano,
p. 321], but above all the stupendous refectory where the Cenacolo or
Last Supper is located, work of the great master Domenico Ghirlan-
daio of 1480 [Figure 40 Cenacolo del Ghirlandaio, p. 320], which further
enriches the whole complex. Inside there is a beautiful monastery,
although the five towers that surround it make it look more like a
medieval fortress than a place of worship. In the summer, in June and
July, concerts of classical music take place in the fifteenth-century
cloister (see events and common events of Tavarnelle).
PASSIGNANO Outside the abbey there is the small town, which
does not offer anything of particular importance, however it is pleas-
ant to walk and admire the old stone houses in the middle of the
vineyards and of the Chianti hills immersed in the most absolute
silence. In the village there are also two frequented restaurants, the
Vecchia Scuderia up against the abbey and the Osteria Passignano
Antinori behind it.
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San Donato in Poggio
WHERE TO EAT
La cantinetta di Rignana [€€] Località Rignana 3, tel. 055 852601,
open from 15 March to 15 November for lunch and dinner, closed on
the month of February. In the remaining period open on Fridays, Sat-
urdays and Sundays, lunch and dinner, by reservation. Although it is
sited in the town of Greve in Chianti it is easily reachable from Badia a
Passignano. Beautiful restaurant surrounded by a gorgeous landscape,
this good eatery is cozy either having lunch inside or having dinner on
the beautiful panoramic terrace. Excellent cuisine, we point out the
tagliatelle with chianina ragout or wild boar sauce. Among the main
courses, the stewed wild boar and the peposo, among the barbecued
meat the cockerel, the guinea fowl, the rosticciana, the inevitable steak
and, at last, the homemade desserts. To get there, turn right after the
Abbey by taking the dirt road, Via Poggio al Vento, continue along
Via di Rignana, and you will arrive in a very short time.
145
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA The surroundings of Tavarnelle
146
San Donato in Poggio
147
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA The surroundings of Tavarnelle
current bell tower was built. The interior of the Pieve is very
fascinating, with three naves and three apses presents the typ-
ical scarcity of ornamental elements of the Romanesque style.
However, there are works of art of great interest such as the
baptismal font in terracotta by Giovanni della Robbia, xvi
century, a triptych attributed to Giovanni Biondo of 1375, oth-
er fourteenth-century panels and on the high altar a painted
Cross attributed to Giotto’s school.
• Santuario di Santa Maria delle Grazie a Pietracupa Admis-
sion to the public is free, to fix a visit contact the tourist office
in Tavarnelle, tel. 055 8077832. The Sanctuary is located near
San Donato, is a Baroque style structure and has a particular
and fascinating history. Everything stems from a tabernacle
from the 1400s, inside the Florentine painter Paolo Schia-
vo created a fresco depicting the Madonna and Child. Being
placed in a place of intensive passage of merchants, great lords
and travelers of all kinds, began to be the object of growing
devotion that culminated, towards the end of 1500, in rou-
mors of miracles and graces of God attributed to that image.
The brothers Naldi, owners of the land, therefore decided to
build a sanctuary, whose first stone was laid in 1596. At the
beginning the sanctuary did not have the current Latin cross
shape, that was the result of successive enlargements with the
addition of three chapels in the presbyteral. The entrance is
under a beautiful arched portico, inside the central chapel is
placed the main altar with the choir behind, and of course the
painting by Paolo Schiavo that is set in the centre of a painting
on canvas by Passignano representing the Saints Peter, Dona-
to, Lawrence and the Archangel Gabriel from around 1600. At
the sides of the main altar there are two smaller chapels with
the tabernacles where are depicted: the Holy Lady appearing to
San Carlo Borromeo and the Crucifixion between San Girola-
mo and San Francesco. The bell tower of the church starts from
the left chapel.
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Sambuca Val di Pesa
149
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA Where to sleep
Where to sleep
At Tavarnelle
| average prices |
HOTEL BORGO DI CORTEFREDA RELAIS Via Roma 191, tel.
055 8073333. This beautiful and carefully restored hamlet offers its
guests beautiful and comfortable double, triple and family rooms.
You will be pampered in a well-equipped wellness center that will
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At Tavarnelle
| low prices |
B&B SOGGIORNO L’ITALIA Via Roma 136, tel. 055 8050549. Nice
B&B in an elegant building in the center of Tavarnelle. It has 5
beautiful rooms elegantly furnished. Tasty, varied and abundant
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TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA Where to sleep
breakfast; the owners Monica and Simone will provide you with
valuable information to visit the Chianti, family atmosphere, wi-
fi free.
B&B ANTICA PIEVE Viadella Pieve 1, tel. 055 8076314. In the
street leading to the Parish Church of San Pietro in Bossolo, this
elegant B&B offers its guests double rooms for single use, dou-
ble and triple rooms, a beautiful swimming pool with wonderful
views. Buffet breakfast, good value for money. An excellent restau-
rant, Borgo Antico, is in the same building. Pets allowed, free wi-
fi, the owners of the structure also have apartments in the ancient
village of Petrognano which is on the edge of Barberino Val d’Elsa,
3 km from Tavarnelle.
PARK HOTEL CHIANTI Via Michelangeo 5, località Ponte Nuo-
vo, tel. 055 8070106. Near the sgc fi-si at the exit of Tavarnelle,
excellent good value for money, closer to the economic price range
rather than the average; good position and satisfactory level of
the services offered, excellent breakfast buffet and fine restaurant.
Nice pool, cozy and spacious rooms, double, triple and quadruple.
We recommend the interior rooms overlooking the pool, some of
those outward turning near the freeway are noisy, wi-fi free, pets
allowed.
CAMPEGGIO AGRICAMP ROMITA Via di Romita 1, tel. 338 2084146.
New structure in a panoramic position, next to the restaurant Aia
delle Oche; beautiful swimming pool, pleasant clearings, well-kept
and with efficient services, the only flaw the lack of shade, the one
that comes from olive trees is the only one you can take advantage
of. If this is not a problem for you this structure is ideal for the stra-
tegic position that allows you to move easily throughout the Chi-
anti area. You can reach taking the sgc fi-si and exit at Tavarnelle;
continuing to the town, at the roundabout turn right towards San
Pancrazio-Montespertoli. The campsite can also be reached from
San Casciano, see itinerary B.
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At San Donato in Poggio
| low prices |
LA COMPAGNIA DEL CHIANTI Via B. Latini 28, tel. 055 8072768/339
8827288. Nice place and nice structure located outside the town of
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TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA Where to sleep
154
Excursions from Tavarnelle
155
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
because it takes too much time): car and car + train. If you pref-
ere to drive, that’s very simple, take the sgc fi-si towards Siena
at San Donato in Poggio. To park see where to park in Siena.
Car + train option: go to the Poggibonsi station, leave the car
at the adjacent free parking, take the train to Siena that you will
reach in 15 minutes, check the timetables on the Trenitalia web-
site. To get to the station take the sgc fi-si exit at Poggibonsi
south, pass the first roundabout turning left, shortly after you
will meet a second roundabout, Largo Campidoglio, go straight
on Via Vallepiatta, pass the railway and turn to the second street
on the right, Via Montenero, past the La Posta restaurant turn
right, and you will arrive in Piazza G. Mazzini.
• To Florence. The bus is the best option to spend a day in Flor-
ence, there are rides in the morning and in the evening, it is
convenient, quick and avoids the problem of parking the car.
For anyone who wants to use the car to the best solution is to
take the sgc fi-si towards Florence and at the end of the in-
terchange proceed towards Firenze Scandicci, then enter Nenni
Avenue and take advantage of the free parking near the Nenni
Torregalli tram stop, if this is complete you can always use the
parking of the adjacent Coop supermarket, which is also free.
Take the tramway (get the ticket first before climbing in, or text
a message to the telephone number 4880105 writing “Ataf ”)
and you will reach Piazza Stazione, in 20 minutes. If you do not
wish to do so, you have two alternatives: park in the two park-
ing lots you find going towards of Florence/Galluzzo after 100
meters on the left there is a parking exchanger, another is on the
opposite side after about 200 meters, leave your car and go to
the stop of the bus, number 37, which is opposite to the park-
ing lot. As a further alternative, past the motorway interchange,
head towards Florence and reach the square of Porta Romana,
cross the gate and immediately turn left at the end of the adja-
cent piazzetta making a U turn before exiting the door: there is
a car park on the right along the old walls, keep in mind that the
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Excursions from Tavarnelle
157
TAVARNELLE VAL DI PESA
158
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
On the map
159
160
Historical outline
Historical outline
The history of Barberino is closely linked to what was once the
powerful city of Semifonte, a nearby town destroyed by the Flo-
rentine troops in 1202. Semifonte in the Middle Ages was so im-
portant as to be considered a very big danger for Florence and Sie-
na. Despite being at war with Siena, Florence decided to break the
delay, probably with the tacit consent of the Sienese, attacking it
to permanently eliminate the threat. After a siege lasted four years
the city was conquered and razed to the ground, only the nearby
village of Petrognano was spared, and the Semifonte stones were
subsequently used to reinforce the walls of Barberino. This being in
a strategic position at the center of a crossroads, which united the
roads that led from north to south and from east to west, greatly
benefited from the destruction of the lumbering neighbor. Always
loyal to the Florentine Republic, soon became an important city
from a commercial point of view, also being on the ancient Via Ro-
mana that connected Florence to Rome, the road that now skirts
the village, but in ancient times crossed it: travelers and pilgrims
had to cross it and even to stop, the number of people in transit
reached such dimensions that it was necessary to build a hospital
able to accommodate them. With the expansion of Barberino be-
gins the slow and inescapable decline of San Donato in Poggio.
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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
and savoring the territory, adding value to its beauty and its treasures,
which exist even if to a lesser extent than the cities of art. This desire
to preserve the territory has clearly emerged when it came to restruc-
ture the ancient village of Linari. Resisting the pressure of those who
wanted to build a luxurious mega resort, a careful restoration has
been done and is still being done, favoring the return to the coun-
try of origin of the former inhabitants of the village. From 2003
on the walls of Barberino waves the orange flag, an environmental
tourism quality brand, conferred by the Touring Club and always
reconfirmed. It is the practical demonstration that even outside the
places where mass tourism can be found, beautiful landscapes and
artistic treasures of great value can be found, and that the two are not
in contrast. In fact, in addition to the beauties existing on site, from
Barberino you can quickly reach places of great charm such as San
Gimignano, Certaldo and Volterra, and the cities of Florence and
Siena with the sgc fi-si.
Useful addresses
PHARMACIES
• Farmacia Pratelli Piazza Ugo Capocchini 21, tel. 055 8075793.
• Pediatric Medical Guard (Vico d’Elsa), tel. 055 8073161.
• asl Alta Valdelsa, 055 807514.
MISERICORDIA operates in nearby Tavarnelle, tel. 055 8076426.
CARABINIERI STATION the competent station is in Tavarnelle, Pi-
azza Matteotti 30, tel. 055 8075674.
MUNICIPAL POLICE Via Cassia 31/e, tel. 055 8075674/055 8075302.
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICE Piazzetta Spedale dei Pellegrini,
tel. 055 8075319.
BANKS
Credito Cooperativo di Cambiano Piazza Brandi 36/Piazza
Capocchini 22/23, tel. 055 8075731
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Festivals and events
163
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
164
Where to shop
Where to shop
UNICOOP SUPERMARKET Via di Novoli 1, open every day and
Sunday morning.
ALIMENTARI VALFREDA di GHINI MAURIZIO Piazza Torrigiani 18.
LA BOTTEGA DI STIACCINO (OR BOTTEGA DELLE NADE) Via Cassia 57,
tel. 055 8075078, closed on Saturday afternoon. This typical food
shop is next to the municipal offices and has a story that is worth
telling. For most of the Barberinesi, this place is still “the bottega
delle Nade”. In fact, many years ago it was managed by Mrs. Nada,
a well-known person in the village, so much that when her daugh-
ters Marcella and Silvana replaced their mother the inhabitants re-
named the shop calling it the “bottega delle Nade” in homage to
the mother and ignoring the name of the daughters. Today behind
the counter is the young daughter of the Serchi. Here you can en-
joy excellent cold cuts and delicious schiacciate. If you go around
stop here, it’s worth it. (The cousin Alessandro runs an oven, in Via
Francesco da Barberino, in the center of the village we recommend
you trying his products).
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BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
166
What to see in Barberino
167
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
168
What to see around Barberino
169
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
170
Where to eat in Vico D’Elsa
171
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
is private and not open to visits, you can visit only the beautiful
ancient cellars where you can taste the wines of the castle produc-
tion coupled with local products. For the visits are accepted groups
already established, up to 16 people, or individual visits of 2 people.
For information and reservations call and ask for Barbara.
CASTELLO DI MONSANTO Via di Monsanto 8, tel. 055 8059000,
It dates from the mid-1700s. Purchased in 1961 by Aldo Bianchi
and donated to his son for his wedding with Giuliana is now run by
their daughter Laura who transformed the castle into a prestigious
company that produces great wines and an excellent olive oil. The
castle can be visited, do not miss the beautiful wineries, certainly
among the most beautiful in Chianti, and the underground tun-
nel that joins the old cellar with the new. At Castello di Monsanto
it is possible to visit its appealing cellars upon booking. The tour
includes an overview of the main Tuscan Designation of Origin
wines, the cultivation techniques in the vineyards, the explanation
of the various production phases, from the vinification to the age-
ing, concluding with a tasting of the wines accompanied by typ-
ical local products – the tour lasts about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
To book the visits that takes place from Monday to Friday in two
shifts, one in the morning, the other in the afternoon, call or con-
sult the site www.castellodimonsanto.it.
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Where to stay in Barberino and surroundings
173
BARBERINO VAL D’ELSA
174
Excursions from Barberino
175
THE “GREAT BEAUTIES” AROUND THE CHIANTI
Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo,
Volterra, Monteriggioni
On the map
176
Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Certaldo, Volterra, Monteriggioni
177
FLORENCE
On the map
178
179
FLORENCE
Historical outline
180
Florence today
Florence today
The capital of Tuscany lies on the banks of the Arno, in the mid-
dle of a harmonious setting of hills dotted with beautiful villas and
pretty villages. It enjoys universal fame for the extraordinary qual-
ity of its works of art, the beauty of its monuments, the richness of
its galleries that host great masterpieces within them, and its aristo-
cratic elegance. This is why Florence is one of the main destinations
of international tourism, it is almost always very crowded, often in-
vaded by a chaotic tourism, except for short periods in November
and immediately after the Christmas holidays, but it is beautiful.
Unfortunately, the growing trend to “hit and run” tourism is not
the most suitable to visit a city like Florence, which deserves at least
4-5 days for a minimum indephts analysis.
Luckily, the monuments of great interest are so close to each
other, that an accurate choice of places to visit and a careful man-
agement of available time, can allow you to get an idea of the city
even with little time available. The tourist area is divided into two
parts, the historic center and the Oltrarno, for the Florentines “di
qua e di là d’Arno”. In the historic center you can admire, inter
alia, the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria and Palazzo Vecchio, San-
ta Croce, the Uffizi, the Medici Chapels, the Accademia Gallery
and the elegant Via Tornabuoni, a street where you can admire
the most famous fashion brands shops. In Oltrarno or San Fredi-
ano, one of the city’s popular districts together with Santa Croce,
you can visit Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens, the Basilicas of
Santo Spirito and Santa Maria del Carmine, Piazzale Michelan-
gelo and the church of San Miniato a Monte. Florence was the
center of the most important contributes to the Italian civiliza-
tion, as a cradle and magisterium of literature and language (just
think about Dante Alighieri); in the city there is also the Acca-
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FLORENCE
Useful addresses
PHARMACIES
• Farmacia internazionale Piazza della Repubblica, tel. 055
210713.
• Farmacia insegna del Moro Piazza San Giovanni, tel. 055 211343.
• Farmacia Mugnaini Piazza Piattellina, tel. 055 2112 91.
CARABINIERI STATIONS
• Zona S. Ambrogio/Quartiere Santa Croce Via dei Pilastri 54,
tel. 055 2061.
• Oltrarno Piazza Pitti 1, tel. 055 284453.
• Zona Signoria Via de Castellani, tel. 055 288904.
• Borgo Ognissanti Borgo Ognissanti 48, tel. 055 27661.
HOSPITALS
• Ospedale di Santa Maria Nuova Piazza Santa Maria Nuova,
tel. 055 69381. In the city center very close to the Duomo.
• Ospedale di Careggi Viale Morgagni, tel. 055 794111. It is the
largest city hospital center. It is located in the Firenze Rifredi
neighborhood.
MUNICIPAL POLICE
• Zona Signoria/Ponte Vecchio Via delle Terme 2, tel. 055 2616057.
182
Celebrations and anniversaries not to be missed
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FLORENCE
What to see
There are many things to see and all close to each other. Even out-
side the most popular circuits, there is such a concentration of art-
works of art that would take many days for a thorough visit. Just
think at the following example: on the hills of Settignano, near
Florence, in a tiny church called Vannella oratory there is a Madon-
na with Child by Botticelli that nobody sees and nearby a beautiful
painting by Andrea del Sarto depicting the Last Supper, normally
ignored by visitors. That’s why we also propose an itinerary that
will allow you to visit places of absolute beauty, with artworks by
the Florentine Renaissance masters, ignored or almost ignored,
with some exceptions, by mass tourism. Obviously the time avail-
able is not infinite, but “mass tourism”, that focuses on the Duo-
mo, Piazza Signoria, the Ponte Vecchio and Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi
Gallery, Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens is in antithesis with
the city and its history; not only allows you to see almost nothing,
but, even worse, does not let you fully tune into a place that dis-
184
What to see
closes glimpses and memorable corners and does not enable you to
experience the atmosphere still present in the city.
VISITING THE MUSEUMS Considering the huge number of tour-
ists, especially if they have a little time available to visit Florence, it
is more advisable to book tickets online, thus avoiding queues and
wasting time. We will provide you with a list of useful addresses for
this purpose (but there are many others). www.florence-museum.
com/tickets lets you book tickets for: Cappelle Medicee, Museums
of San Marco and Bargello, Galleria degli Uffizi and Accademia,
Giardino di Boboli. To visit the Duomo, Brunelleschi’s Dome,
Giotto’s Bell Tower and the Baptistery we suggest two email ad-
dresses, www.fondoambiente.it, referring to Fai (Fondo Ambiente
Italiano):it guarantees large discounts, up to 80%, to its members.
Many museums offer discounts, not all in the same way: for in-
stance, for children up to 18 years, for eu citizens to 18/25 years,
some museums offer family discounts, otherwise all State-owned
museums offer free entry on the first Sunday of each month. www.
faiperme.fondambiente.it; www.ilgrandemusodelduomo.it.
FLORENTINE MUSEUM SYSTEM The museums in Florence are di-
vided into various typologies.
• State-owned Museums Uffizi, Corridoio Vasariano, Palazzo
Pitti, Giardino di Boboli and annexed galleries, Galleria dell’Ac-
cademia, Musei di San Marco and del Bargello, Orsanmichele,
Opificio delle pietre dure.
• Municipal Museums Palazzo Vecchio, Cappella Brancacci,
Musei Bardini and di Santa Maria Novella.
• Museums belongind to Religious Institution Museo di Santa
Croce and Cappella dei Pazzi, Museo Opera del Duomo, Catte-
drale di Santa Maria del Fiore, Campanile di Giotto, Cupola del
Brunelleschi, Battistero and Museo del Bigallo.
TOURIST INFORMATION The main infopoints of the center of
Florence are in:
• Piazza Stazione 4, tel. 055 212245.
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FLORENCE
186
What to see
187
FLORENCE
188
What to see
189
FLORENCE
190
What to see
191
FLORENCE
192
What to see
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FLORENCE
can buy products that are certainly not cheap but surely unique,
not to be missed for a visit.
VIA TORNABUONI Fomerly Via dei Legnaioli, took the current
name when they were sent away to let the noble families of Flor-
ence take their place. It is the most elegant and aristocratic street in
the city surrounded by beautiful and elegant buildings, including:
Palazzo Strozzi, Palazzo Spini-Feroni, Medici Tornaquinci and the
Ferragamo Museum. Quaint and peculiar is Palazzo Dudley with
its characteristic balcony which is on the corner with Via della Spa-
da and Via della Vigna Nuova. Today Via Tornabuoni is known
only for its boutiques of international fashion houses; they have
closed once famous venues that had a unifying function such as the
old Seeber bookstore or the ancient coffee Casoni (later Giacosa)
where the Negroni cocktail was invented. The street on weekends
and after the closure of banks, shops and offices is practically de-
serted: to reverse the trend the town has favored the opening of a
new café in the same place where previously was located the histor-
ic Florentine bar Giacosa.
PONTE SANTA TRINITÀ It stands between Ponte Vecchio and
Ponte alla Carraia, at the confluence of the elegant Lungarni Ac-
ciaiuoli and Corsini, it is one of the most beautiful bridges in
Italy [Figure 52 Ponte S. Trinita, p. 327]. It joins Piazza Santa Trinita
to Piazza Frescobaldi, the noble family who had it built at its own
expense in 1252. Initially it was built of wood and connected the
other bank of the Arno to Via Tornabuoni, it was destroyed and
rebuilt several times, but its current shape is due to the disastrous
flood of 1557 that swept away the existing bridge. It was Cosimo i
de’ Medici who commissioned Bartolomeo Ammannati to build
a new one that was resistant but also beautiful, up to the impor-
tance that had taken Via Tornabuoni and Via Maggio where the
noble families of the Medici court resided, the work began in
1567 and ended three years later. It is probable that the project
was by Michelangelo and that the Ammannati was inspired by it;
it would be suggested by the elliptical shape of the three arches,
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What to see
195
FLORENCE
196
What to see
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FLORENCE
198
What to see
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FLORENCE
and decoration of the north door of the Baptistery. The portico be-
hind the courtyard is beautiful, on its walls are the shields of the
Podestà and the Florentine districts and the statues sculpted by Bar-
tolomeo Ammannati, Baccio Bandinelli and Giambologna. Open-
ing hours Monday and Sunday from 8.15 am to 2 pm. For informa-
tion and reservations call tel. 055 2388606 or contact the web-site
www.museodelbargello.it.
PIAZZA SANTA CROCE One of the most attractive and spacious
squares in the city, has been used since the 14th century for festi-
vals and public spectacles, and the traditional St John’s Day foot-
ball game “Calcio storico”(24th June) has been held here for many
centuries: the four historic districts of Florence, Santa Croce, San
Giovanni, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, distinguished
by the colors blue, green, white, red face each other. The game,
whose rules date back to 1580, is a mixture between football, rugby
and wrestling and between the calcianti deal each other a bunch
of blows to the limit, and even beyond, the regulation. The area
around the square and the square itself are full of locals and the eve-
ning is the object of nightlife, to be avoided if you want tranquility.
One such house is Palazzo dell’Antella, Palazzo Cocchi (Serristo-
ri). The huge statue of Dante beside the church is by Enrico Pazzi
(1865): it was erected with great pomp and ceremony in the centre
of the piazza on the sixth centenary of the poet’s birth, but after the
Arno flood in 1966 it was moved to its present position.
CHIESA DI SANTA CROCE Built in 1294 for the order of the Fran-
ciscans on a project probably by Arnolfo di Cambio, it is one of the
most beautiful examples of Italian Gothic. Worn out by the flood
of 1966, a plaque placed in the wall recalls the height reached by
the water during the tragic event, has returned to its former glory
thanks to a careful restoration. It is also referred to as the “tempio
dell’Itale Glorie”, definition by the poet Foscolo buried in the ba-
silica, because it contains within the tombs of many of the great
artists of the time, artists, writers and scientists. The interior of the
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What to see
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FLORENCE
century, when this fortified palace was built as the residence of the
city’s ruling priors. For more than a century it was the tallest edifice
in Florence, and its design was copied for the seat of government in
many other Tuscan towns. As the city’s political center, the square
has witnessed numerous events; among these the bonfire of the
vanities organized in 1497 by Girolamo Savonarola who burned
many works of art considered sinful, and the burning of the friar
the following year with the accusation of heresy: a plaque placed
next to the Neptune recalls such event. The sculptures of the Piazza
refer, with some contrast between them, to the Florentine political
events. Michelangelo’s David (the copy, the original is in the Acca-
demia gallery) set up at the entrance to Palazzo Vecchio in 1504, is
the symbol of the Florentine Republic’s power against the tyranny
of the Medici, a few meters away the statue of Hercules and Caco by
Baccio Bandinelli 1534, it symbolizes physical power. The Neptune,
Bartolomeo Ammannati, 1575, recalls the maritime ambitions of
the Medici while the bronze statue of Cosimo i of Giambologna,
1595, portrays the man who brought Tuscany under the military
power of the Medici. In the square, to the right of Palazzo Vecchio,
stands the Loggia della Signoria also known as Loggia dei Lanzi in
1376–82; it was designed by Orcagna. In the loggia you can admire
the Cellini’s magnificent bronze Perseus and the three-figure group
of the Rape of the Sabines from Giambologna.
PALAZZO VECCHIO It is one of the emblems of Florence, its
unique tower allows its immediate identification. Initially called
Palazzo dei Priori or Palazzo Novo, it became the headquarters of
the Signoria in the xv century; one of the most significant moments
in the history of the palace came in 1540, when Cosimo i moved
here from Palazzo Medici. Today it is the town hall, inside there are
some municipal offices and the mayor’s office but it is also an im-
portant museum with magnificent rooms and works of great value.
The entrance is from the main door of Piazza Signoria and imme-
diately appears the beautiful porticoed Cortile di Michelozzo. The
Cortile also shows the insignia of all the churches and corporations
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What to see
of the arts and crafts. Salone dei Cinquecento: this immense hall
(53.5m by 22m, and 18m high) celebration of Cosimo i who moved
into the palace in 1540. The frescos panels, by Vasari and his work-
shop, represent allegories of the cities of Tuscany under Florentine
dominion, the foundations and early growth of Florence, and the
victories over Siena and Pisa (1554–5 and 1496–1509 respectively).
These frescoes cover those of the battles of Anghiari and Cascina,
painted by Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo Buonarroti. The
most important sculptures in the Salone dei Cinquecento line the
two long walls: Michelangelo’s Victory is a strongly knit two-figure
group, probably intended for a niche in the tomb of Giulio ii in
Rome. Giambologna’s original plaster model for Florence Victo-
rious over Pisa was commissioned as a pendant to Michelangelo’s
Victory (the marble is in the Bargello). The other 16th-century stat-
ues around the walls represent the Labours of Hercules and are the
best works of Vincenzo de’ Rossi, pupil of Bandinelli. The hall in
the period of Florence, capital of Italy, 1865-1871, was the seat of
the Parliament. Other things to see, the monumental areas full of
beautiful decorations that celebrate the power of the Medici, no-
table the room of Leone x, the pontiff son of Lorenzo Il Magnifi-
co, on the walls are painted the scenes that represent his triumphal
entry to Florence; we suggest you observing the beautiful fireplace
by Bartolomeo Ammannati. The Neighborhood of the Elements,
“Quartiere degli elementi”, leads directly to the Eleonora District,
one of the masterpieces of the building, designed by Vasari for Ele-
onora di Toledo, Cosimo’s wife: this suite of rooms was the apart-
ment used by Eleanor of Toledo, the wife of Cosimo i and daughter
of the Viceroy of Naples. The Cappella di Eleonora was decorated
by Bronzino in 1541–3 and is one of his most important and orig-
inal works. The Hall of Audiences “sala d’Udienza”: this, together
with the adjoining Sala dei Gigli, is the most beautiful room in the
palace. Formerly they were one huge hall, well lit with large win-
dows looking out over the city. The dividing wall was built in 1472
by Benedetto da Maiano. He and his brother Giuliano designed
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204
What to see
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206
What to see
the xvi and xvii centuries The Corridor was seriously damaged by
the attack of via Georgofili of 27 May 1993 that cost the lives of 5
people. Along the path through the small views that offer fantastic
panoramass of the River Arno and Florence. In the central point
the corridor crosses Ponte Vecchio, here in 1939 Mussolini had pan-
oramic windows done with a breathtaking view of the Arno and the
Ponte Santa Trinita. These were created on the occasion of Hitler’s
visit, the dictator was so impressed by such beauty that the bridge
was the only one not to be destroyed by the retreating German army.
The narrowing near the Mannelli tower was singular, but the owner
did not allow it to be demolished and Vasari had to, as they say in
Florence, get along. After crossing the Arno we arrive overlooking
the small church of Santa Felicita, here the Medici assisted privately
the religious services. The route ends in the Boboli Gardens [Figure
53 Bridges over the River Arno from the Vasari Corridor, p. 328].
PONTE VECCHIO It is one of the symbols of the city, its first con-
struction, in a different position from the current, dates back to
half of the i century ad In the ii century with the opening of the
Via Cassia it was built in its current position. It has been repeated-
ly ruined by floods. The present bridge of three arches was recon-
structed after a flood in 1345, by Taddeo Gaddi better known as a
painter of the Giottesque school (but the bridge is also attributed
to the architect Neri di Fioravante). It is known that this bridge
already had the little rectangular “piazza” in the centre, as it does
today. The bridge on this site has been lined by shops since the 13th
century. There were hosted shops of grocers, shoemakers, proven-
der sellers, butchers and haberdashers. By an edict issued by Grand
Duke Ferdinando i in 1594 the smelly butchers’ shops and grocery
stalls were replaced by those of goldsmiths and silversmiths. By an
edict issued by Grand Duke Ferdinando i in 1594 the smelly butch-
ers’ shops and grocery stalls were replaced by those of goldsmiths
and silversmiths, and they remain here to this day, famous all over
the world and a strong element characterizing the bridge itself. In
1901 a bust of Benvenuto Cellini was inaugurated. Those who visit
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208
What to see
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210
What to see
Piazzale Michelangelo, by bus lines 12/13, by car, but car parking is dif-
ficult, or on foot, there are 2 beautiful scenic routes. Better go walking.
FORTE DI BELVEDERE or Forte di San Giorgio is next to the hom-
onymous gate, it borders the Boboli Gardens. It was built in 1590
following the project of Buondelmonti and Don Giovanni De’
Medici. It was part of the defensive system of Florence, had a double
function, protected the city from external attacks and the notable
citizens from riots or internal revolts acting as impregnable fortress.
At the center of the fort there is the beautiful Belvedere palace, to-
day home to important exhibitions or special events. From the ter-
races of the fort and its inner bar, on the top floor, you can admire
one of the most beautiful views of the city, here sometimes during
the summer theater performances are organized, and on Fridays,
Saturdays and Sundays aperitif (quality of food “Without praise
and without infamy”, but a panorama that compensates for this as-
pect). The structure usually closes at 21, if there are no shows, but the
timetable is indicative because it varies almost every year.
GIARDINO VILLA (MUSEO) BARDINI Costa San Giorgio 2. It takes
its name from Stefano Bardini, the most authoritative Italian anti-
quarian who lived in Florence most of his life and donated all his
works, collected in a beautiful collection, to the city that had host-
ed him. Near Forte Belvedere, surrounded by beautiful gardens
with a spectacular panoramic view, the museum of Villa Bardini
was inaugurated in 2008. It exhibits works by Pietro Annigoni and
an exhibition space of the Roberto Capucci foundation dedicated
to the work of the great Roman designer. Inside are exhibited also
weapons, sculptures, paintings and tapestries.
Opening hours: November to February 8.15 am-4.30 pm; March,
April, May, September and October 8.15 am-6.30 pm; June, July and
August 8.15 am-7.30 pm. Entrance to Villa Bardini and gardens from
Lungarno Torrigiani, near Ponte Vecchio or from Costa San Gior-
gio, near Belvedere fort. Entrance to the museum from Via delle
Renai 37. Cost: Gardens € 10, reduced € 5; Villa € 8, reduced € 6;
possible cumulative tickets; for information, call tel. 055 20066206.
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Itinerary A
Beautiful churches ignored by mass tourism:
Santa Trinita → S.S. Apostoli → Chiesa di Ognissanti
→ Cenacolo di Santa Apollonia → Chiostro dello Scalzo
duration 1 day
Holy Trinity, S.S. Apostoli and Church of Ognissanti, are very close to
each other, in the historic center a few steps from Piazza Signoria,
Ponte Vecchio, Piazza Santa Maria Novella. Cenacle of Santa Apollonia,
and Chiostro dello Scalzo in the immediate vicinity of Piazza S. Marco.
CHIESA DI SANTA TRINITA Piazza Santa Trinita. Not far from the Ar-
no and the Santa Trinita bridge, it overlooks the square of the same
name at the beginning of Via Tornabuoni. Wanted by the Vallombro-
sani monks it dates back to half of the XIV century. Originally it was
built in Romanesque style, but later it was enlarged and restored in
Gothic style. It belonged to the Strozzi and the Medici. The Church is
rich in works of art housed in its beautiful interior chapels. The six-
teenth-century façade of the Buondelmonti, with statues by Giovanni
Caccini, was built in 500 in the full counter-reformation, during this
period the Cappella maggiore was restored. It is however in 1400 that
the basilica knows its most important pictorial period. The Sassetti
chapel was built, dedicated to the rich Florentine merchant contain-
ing a series of frescoes dedicated to the life of Saint Francis of Assisi,
made by Domenico Ghirlandaio between 1482 and 1485.
• Cappella Davanzati It houses the sarcophagus of the Good Shepherd
of Rossellino, 1444, the Crowned Virgin of Bicci di Lorenzo, a fresco by
the founder of the order of the Vallombrosani, San Giovanni Gualberto,
by Neri di Bicci half 1440, brought here from the Pieve di San Pancrazio,
near San Casciano, and an announcement by the same author.
• Cappella Spini It preserves the fresco of the Holy Shepherd by
Alessandro Baldovinetti and a wooden figure, almost life size, by De-
siderio da Settignano, resembling the Maddalena of Donatello.
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Itinerary A
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FLORENCE
remain very beautiful. At the center of the nave there are two works of
considerable value: the painting of S. Agostino by Botticelli and that of
S. Girolamo by Ghirlandaio. But the most famous work of art is undoubt-
edly the wooden Crucifix by Giotto, perfectly restored in the workshops
of the gemstone opificio. In the refectory there is a large cenacle of
Ghirlandaio and some scenes of life of Santa Fina.
Timetable weekdays: 7.15-12.30 am and 4-8 pm, timetable holi-
days: 9-1 am and 4-8 pm, visit to the refectory 9-12 am days Monday,
Tuesday and Saturday.
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Itinerary B
Itinerary B
Discovering free or cheap Florence
duration 3 days
Florence is a beautiful city, certainly one of the most fascinating, but
surely can not be defined economic. In fact, hotels, restaurants or
even an ice cream taken in the wrong place, can represent an attack
on your finances. Care must be taken to avoid the pitfalls by looking
for the cheaper solutions that exist here too. In this regard we propose
an itinerary that goes through some of the most beautiful and famous
places in the city, all very close to each other, and other less known but
absolutely beautiful places, all free with the exception of the Opificio
delle pietre dure and the Basilica of S. Maria Novella, of the museum of
S. Marco, Museum of the Church of Santo Spirito, cost of admission €
4. This route if done entirely requires three days. If you want more de-
tailed information about the places proposed in the itinerary, consult
the pages of the guide that describe them with more details. Always
check schedules because they are subject to frequent changes.
• Chiostro dello Scalzo To see: the frescoes of Andrea del Sarto and
Franciabigio.
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216
Itinerary B
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FLORENCE
At this point we suggest you to alternate the visit with a splendid walk
that will take you to Piazzale Michelangelo, passing through the San
Niccolò district, along the Lungarno to the homonymous tower. Take
the ramps designed by Poggi, stop at the garden of roses and admire
the garden and the splendid panorama, arrive at Piazzale Michelan-
gelo and do not miss the beautiful Basilica of San Miniato al Monte
which has inside a Crucifix of Michelozzo and frescoes of Spinello
Aretino. Do not miss the beautiful view of the city that can be admired
externally from the basilica. If you still want to walk continue along
the avenue Galileo, enjoy the beautiful views that appear, arrive at Via
San Leonardo and turn right. Take the small but beautiful road, among
other things, there is the house of Ottone Rosai, after a few minutes
you will be in Forte Belvedere, past the door of San Giorgio and in a
few minutes you will be in Ponte Vecchio.
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From what originate some Florentine sayings
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220
Where to eat: some good addresses
other days open for lunch and dinner, closes at 11 pm. This small,
well-furnished and typical restaurant is located in the heart of the
S. Croce district. Excellent Tuscan cuisine: given the place surpris-
ingly measured prices, good first courses and dishes with wild boar,
excellent pork.
TRATTORIA SERGIO GOZZI Piazza San Lorenzo 8r, tel. 055 281941,
open only for lunch. Historical trattoria of Florence, very close to
the Piazza del Duomo, in front of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, this
typical place, a little Spartan, serves typical dishes of Tuscan cui-
sine, is very well known and therefore always crowded, very kind
staff excellent cuisine. Affordable prices, booking is recommended.
TRATTORIA BORDINO Via Stracciatella 9r, tel. 055 213048, opening
hours: lunch 12 am-2.30 pm, dinner 7-10.30 pm, closed on Sundays.
A stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio and Piazza Pitti, beautiful and
characteristic trattoria with excellent cuisine, at lunch excellent tour-
ist menu at about 10 €; for this reason very frequented by Florentines
and tourists, in the evening à la carte dinner, more expensive.
TRATTORIA DILADDARNO Via dei Serragli 108r, tel. 055 224917,
opening hours: closed on Mondays, open from Tuesday to Sunday
12 am-3 pm and 7 pm-00.30 am. Typical tuscan trattoria, the name
written in pure Florentine actually means Oltrarno. Located in the
heart of the popular district of San Frediano, near the historical
Piazze Pitti, Santo Spirito and del Carmine offers its patrons the
typical Florentine cuisine. Do not miss the fillet with green pepper,
homemade pasta, steak and stewed boar. Fair prices.
MERCATO CENTRALE Via dell’Ariento. It is the old city market,
finely restored, this structure still houses the ancient food shops on
the ground floor, and on the 1st floor restaurants of various kinds;
if you go in from Via dell’Ariento at lunchtime, you will notice on
your right a small row. These people, predominantly Florentine but
not only, are waiting to have lunch at Nerbone, a good cheap place
to eat, on the ground floor of the busy market, and enjoy the dishes
of boiled meat, tripe or lampredotto that have made it famous. The
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FLORENCE
first floor is occupied by restaurants of all kinds, here you will find
pizza, homemade pasta, and classic restaurants. Sort where you like
and sit back, you can sit anywhere. Usually crowded, especially on
weekends, very popular with young people.
CIRCOLO RONDINELLA DEL TORRINO Lungarno Soderini 2, tel. 055
215921. This restaurant (this is an Arci club run by volunteers) re-
cently renovated has certainly not the charm of the most renowned
restaurants, but it is a pleasant place, and those who stop here, es-
pecially in summer, can always find something to eat, pasta, sand-
wiches or pizza all served outdoors with beautiful views of the Lun-
garni and Florence, is in front of the Excelsior hotel. It is in Oltrar-
no a few steps from the Vespucci Bridge, from Piazza Cestello and
Piazza del Carmine, frequented mainly by locals, very low prices.
APERICENA WITH A VIEW Some of the most prestigious hotels in
the city, and numerous bars, offer aperitifs at affordable prices, in
many cases there are authentic buffets, and start from 8 pm on-
wards, offering breathtaking views.
• Westing Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti, tel. 055 27151. If
you want to have a special dinner this is the place for you. This
historic, elegant 5-star hotel serves spectacular aperitifs on the
panoramic terrace on the sixth floor. With € 20 you can have a
buffet dinner, in a fantastic place that offers a breathtaking over-
look of Florence, Lungarni, Piazzale Michelangelo and Forte
Belvedere. Not to be missed, there is no reservation required.
• Hotel Baglioni Piazza dell’Unità Italiana 6, tel. 055 23580.
Even this historic hotel in the city center offers on the splendid
Brunelleschi aperitif terrace with a stunning view of the Duomo,
the Basilica of San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels. Only the
view is worth the price.
• Flo Lounge Bar Viale Michelangelo 82, tel. 055 650791. This
beautiful bar offers a breathtaking view of Piazzale Michelange-
lo and the entire city, even here the view alone is worth the cost
of the aperitif.
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Bars and ice cream parlors
STREET FOOD
• Da Marione Piazzale di Porta Romana, open only for lunch,
closed on Saturdays and Sundays. Unfortunately, this authentic
temple of street food changed its management in September 2017,
Marione, typical big man with a colorful and plump face has fold-
ed, replaced by other people; the place continues to be crowded
but the quality, while remaining good, is no more as it was before.
It is located in the square of Porta Romana, with a view of the old
walls and the ancient gate, near to the Boboli Gardens.
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FLORENCE
BAR CAFFE’ RIVOIRE Piazza della Signoria, tel. 055 214412, closes
at 9 pm. Prestigious city cafe, beautiful, very elegant interior rooms
where in winter it is very pleasant to sip a coffee or tea accompa-
nied by delicious self production pastries or chocolates. But if you
want to enjoy the magical atmosphere of the restaurant, sit at the
outdoor tables and enjoy the view of the square, Palazzo Vecchio
and the Loggia dell’Orcagna.
GELATERIA VIVOLI Via Isola delle Stinche 7, tel. 055 292334, closes
at midnight. It has always been the iconic ice cream shop in Florence,
it is located a few steps from Piazza Santa Croce. His ice cream is so
good that in the seventies the pediatricians of the district suggest-
ed to the parents who had children who missed the fruit to eat the
ice cream of Vivoli. Today the small local has expanded but the ice
cream is always delicious, certainly one of the best, if not the best, of
the city. To get there take Via Torta, it is on the opposite side of the
basilica, after 100 meters turn right and you have arrived.
GELATERIA STREGA NOCCIOLA Via Ricasoli 16r, tel. 055 217375.
This delicious and small ice cream shop is located near Piazza Duo-
mo, fantastic fruit ice creams, a must the lavender taste.
224
Where to park in Florence
225
SIENA
THE CITY OF THE PALIO
On the map
226
227
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
Historical outline
The origins of the ancient Saena Julia root back in the etruscan era.
An ancient legend tells us Siena was founded by Senio, the son of
Romolo, founder of Rome; although in Siena there are numer-
ous statues of the Wolf nursing the twins the assertion is histori-
cally unfounded. In reality it didn’t begin growing into a proper
town until in 30 bc when the Romans established a military col-
ony called Sena Iulia. With the barbarian invasions in vi century
bc the Lombards, and later the Franks, also had an input in the
governing of the city. Great works were carried out, the most im-
portant being the Via Francigena, the road which linked Rome to
France. The advent of the pilgrims determined a strong growth in
the political and military importance of the city. Siena reached its
maximum splendour in 1147 when it became an autonomous mu-
nicipality after a long episcopal dominion. Economic rivalry and
territorial conflict with neighbouring Florence, which was anti-im-
perial, or Guelf, made Siena the centre of pro-imperial Ghibel-
linism in Tuscany. The Sienese reached the peak of political success
on September 4, 1260, when their army crushed the Florentines at
the Battle of Montaperti. This victory is still celebrated during the
Palio, but the Florentines had their revenge nine years later. Soon
afterward, Siena itself turned Guelf, putting an end to the war with
Florence, and began a new period of great development. Is in the
decades around the xiv century that Siena reaches its maximum
splendour from the artistic and architectural point of view, some
great artists and great personalities of the era were born in Siena:
Guido da Siena, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, who worked with Giotto
in Florence, Simone Martini, Santa Caterina da Siena, patroness of
Italy and Enea Silvio Piccolomini the future Pope Pio ii. In those
years are built Piazza del Campo, the Palazzo Pubblico, the Ca-
thedral and the Torre del Mangia. Unfortunately the outbreak of
the Black Death in 1348 determined the decadence, decimates the
population and causing an economic collapse. A prolonged period
of famine and rebellion brought Siena to the loss of independence.
228
The history of the Palio
This will last until the Unity of Italy. Today Siena, recognized by
Unesco as a perfect example of a medieval city, is a quiet town.
Being an open-air museum, tourism that is certainly the predomi-
nant activity (the beautiful surroundings of Siena, the Crete Senesi
and the val d’Orcia were declared also patrimony of humanity for
their uniqueness), but the confectionary, biotechnology and phar-
maceutical industries represent a great economical resource, while
for what pertains the tertiary sector around Monte dei Paschi, the
oldest bank in the world, still has a major influence.
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
Her figure has always been present in all Palios painted over the
centuries. Thereto the Sienese always seek help from Her, as it hap-
pened before the battle of Monteaperti when in Duomo they of-
fered to Virgin Mary the keys of the city or on the occasion of the
second world war when during the passing of the war-front they
invoked her protection. But there is another episode preserved by
popular tradition that mixes the devotion to Mary with the aver-
sion to Florence. On 2 July 1594 the story tells of little statue of
the Virgin in a tabernacle in the Contrada bearing the name of
Capitan Provenzano Salvani, who had previously led the Sienese
to victory. On that day, one of the guards of the medieval garrison
shot at the statue with his archebus. The statue was damaged, but
the fatal weapon exploded in the hands of the blasphemer killing
him on the spot. This occurrence was interpreted as a sign of de-
votion to the Virgin by the city. In subsequent years on the site of
the “miracle” was erected the basilica dedicated to the Madonna
of Provenzano, anniversary which is celebrated every year with the
Palio of July 2nd. In 1500 took hold the “Palio alla tonda” as we
know it today, the race takes place in Piazza del Campo surrounded
by the enthusiasm of the people. From 1600 until today the race
has never been interrupted, harking back to the regulation of 1656
that sanctioned its the official birth, establishing also the birth of
the Contradas and the place of race. The Contrade began from
1659 to record in the minutes their victories. The Palio of Siena
as an event takes place over 4 main days and the race is done on
the last day. The entry in Piazza del Campo is free of course, you
can access the square up to 6 pm entering from the curve of the
Casato, but don’t restrict yourself only to see the race. The Palio
lasts three laps, and there is a previous negotiation during the so
called “Mossa”: each Contrada can, during the excited phases of the
“Mossa” establish negotiations through the jockeys to win alliances
that could favor their victory, or the Contradas who do not have
the chance to win, encourage the victory of the friend Contrada
putting the enemy one out of contention. These things obviously
230
The districts (Contrade) of Siena and their history
occur upon payment. If you are in town on the day of the Palio
enjoy the parade of the Contradas, heading to the cathedral for the
blessing, admire the richness of the costumes, which date back to
the time period from 1430 to 1480, and the ability of flag-wavers,
observe the spasmodic expectation which can be glimpsed in the
eyes of the Contrada members when they await the assigment of
horses positions on the starting line. If instead you end up on the
eve of the race in a Contrada you should have the chance to see or
even feast (something actually very difficult if you do not know
someone that could introduce you) on propitiatory dinners orga-
nized in each Contrada; you will taste food of excellent quality, and
have the chance to see with your own eyes the passion of Siena for
this celebration. Eventually, never congratulate those contradaioli
who arrived at second place at the end of the race, this placement
is considered by the Sienese an authentic misfortune. In any case,
do not merely observe the race in a detached manner, try instead to
grasp the essence and the atmosphere, and have a great regard for
this event even if you do not fully understand its meaning. Be well
aware that a great number of people dedicate to this tradition time,
efforts and economic resources. And, despite the fact that the Palio
is seen by a growing number of tourists, it is, and it always will be
the feast of Siena and the Sienese.
231
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
232
Addresses of the Contrade
Useful addresses
MUNICIPAL POLICE 0577 292550.
STATE POLICE 0577 201111.
CARABINIERI, SIENA CENTER 0577 289265.
HEALTH EMERGENCIES Ospedale le Scotte 057 75851.
ANTICA FARMACIA DEL CAMPO Piazza del Campo, tel. 0577 280234.
FARMACIA GORI Via Banchi di Sopra 18, tel. 0577 280233.
FARMACIA FIORE Via Camollia 13, tel. 0577 281113.
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
Not to be missed
Siena is not only a beautiful city full of things to see, but as already
said, is also pleasant and you can easily explore its center on foot
for its small size. Despite being a famous and therefore much vis-
ited city, it retains in some respects the relaxed atmosphere of a
large village. Discover and admire city beauties strolling through
the narrow and elegant medieval streets, do not miss a hike to Via
di Città, Via Banchi di Sopra and Via Banchi di Sotto, don’t forget
to give a look at the districts headquarters, inside they hide true art
treasures, because the Palios have always been painted by famous
artists. You can visit the Contrade Museums the days when the
Palio is run, otherwise you can book a measure visit at the infor-
mation office in Siena (see the history of the districts). The Palio is
typically urban tradition lived and felt with authentic popular pas-
sion, the inhabitants of Siena considered this event a prerogative
belonging to them alone. The central core of the city is the famous
Piazza del Campo of course, unifying the heart of the city and the
place where two times a year takes place this race so deeply felt and
intensely involving.
PIAZZA DEL CAMPO A must for every visitor is one of the most
beautiful squares of the world, the unifying element of the city. Just
like in the Middle Ages, Piazza del Campo is the centre of Siena.
Its homogeneous shape is not accidental, in fact in 1297 before
the construction of the buildings were established guidelines with
strict limitations of height and adornment: guidelines to which ev-
eryone had to obey by penalty the demolition of the building. It is
to this forward-looking measure that we owe the harmony and daz-
zling beauty of Piazza del Campo. The square has a circumference
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Not to be missed
of 333 meters. The paving of the square was begun in 1327 and com-
pleted in 1349 and is in unique “knife”-shaped bricks. The shell-like
division of the brick paving into nine sections outlined in white
travertine stones dates from the time of the Governo “dei Nove”
in the 14th century and represents the city’s nine governors. Each
section represents a member of the government of the Nine unan-
imously recognized as one of the most stable and peaceful Italian
governments. From an artistic point of view, the sections were in-
tended to represent the folds of the mantle of the Virgin Mary, Pa-
troness of the city but considered the highest ruler of Siena. Today
the square, surrounded by elegant buildings among which stands
out the Public Palace and the Torre del Mangia with the beautiful
Fonte Gaia in the center, hosts the most important city events: in
addition to the Palio here are held Carnival events in February and
events organized by the municipality during the summer period.
Along the perimeter of the square there are the elegant coffee bars
where it is pleasant to stop and enjoy an espresso or an ice cream,
but first, take a look at the price lists to avoid unpleasant surprises.
PALAZZO PUBBLICO OR PALAZZO COMUNALE Is considered one of
the finest examples of gothic architecture. Formerly the residence
of the city’s Signoria, or Podestà, the building is now the seat of
the town council. Up until 1270 the town’s government had been
housed in a Church building, Church that was also the seat of the
Curia. The decision to erect a building to house the government
was taken in the second half of the 13th century, and then, under
the Government of the Nine, designs were drawn up for the con-
struction of the present palace (1293-1297). In the first half of 1400
was completed the large council chamber (Salone del Gran Consi-
glio) along with two side-wings on two floors; the median body of
the façade rises up for a further three floors and has at its center a
large copper disc bearing the monogram of Christ that was placed
here in 1425 to commemorate the sermons of San Bernardino in
Piazza del Campo. The stone lower section of the building opens
up with a loggia of typically Senese arches, above, the building is
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
236
Not to be missed
237
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
238
Not to be missed
the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. In its halls you can admire
how the hospital was and the artworks it preserves. Here worked
the greatest artists of the time, Simone Martini, Ambrogio and
Piero Lorenzetti. Besides the frescoes (remarkable in the sala Pel-
legrinaio The Women and the lame man) here you can also admire
churches, chapels and oratorios. In the various visit routes there
are many permanent exhibitions that can be visited with a single
entrance ticket: The Archaeological Museum, the treasure of Con-
stantinople, the Antica Fonte Gaia of Jacopo della Quercia and the
Museum of flags of the Contradas. You can also visit the hospital,
its lanes, operating theaters around the Chiosco della Corticella.
Orario: Opening hours: every day, except Tuesdays, 10.30 am-
4.30 pm, Saturdays and Sundays closes at 6.30 pm. Entrance fee €
6, reduced € 4.50. For informations tel. 0577 534571.
MUSEO OPERA DEL DUOMO For informations tel. 0577 286300. In
1339 Siena pondered the ambitious dream of making the current
Duomo the transept of a much larger Church: the Duomo Nuo-
vo. The construction of the so-called “Duomo Nuovo” was started
in 1339, under the direction of Lando di Pietro. Proceedings soon
ground to a halt, because the hill on which it had to be built turned
up to be unsuitable to support the weight of such a monumental
building, and due to the precarious conditions of the town’s coffers
after the great plague that hit Siena in 1348. In 1355 the project was
abandoned. In the adjacent Piazza Jacopo della Quercia are recog-
nizable elements of this new structure, including the Facciatone,
unfinished façade of the new cathedral. The museum is famous
for the artworks it hosts, among these a collection of sculptures in
marble by Nicola Pisano carved while Pisano was holding the post
of master-builder (1285–7). Extraordinary is the Majesty of Duccio
da Boninsegna, author also of the large Stained-glass rose window
to fill the round “oculus” opening above the Cathedral’s chancel
between 1287 and 1290. The collection also includes masterpieces
by Domenico Beccafumi, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Taddeo di Bar-
tolo, Sano di Pietro, Matteo di Giovanni. There are also wooden
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
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Not to be missed
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
between 1481 and 1485; the family’s altar was commissioned from
Andrea Bregno at the beginning of the 16th century, with four
sculptures by Michelangelo, San Pietro and San Pio placed on the
left and San Paolo and San Gregorio Magno placed on the right.
• Libreria Piccolomini It is one of the many treasures of the Ca-
thedral, this space is dedicated to Enea Silvio Piccolomini, rec-
onciler between the emperor Frederick iii and the state of the
Church and the one who combined the marriage between the
emperor and Eleonora d’Aragona . For this reason he was ap-
pointed Bishop of Trieste, 1447, and of Siena 1450. Later he be-
came a Cardinal and after two years he was named Pope taking
the name of Pio ii. Thanks to its power and authority, he has a
space just inside the Basilica. The current library was conceived
and built by his nephew, also a Cardinal and future Pope with
the name of Pio iii. Don’t miss the library, never completely
realized but contains precious handpainted manuscripts. Above
all, admire the splendid frescoes by Pinturicchio and his pupil
Raffaello Sanzio. At the center of the ceiling it is possible to ad-
mire another extraordinary work, it is the marvelous copy of the
three Graces of ancient Rome.
Opening hours: The Cathedral, the Piccolomini Library, Baptis-
tery, crypt, the Museum of the Opera, from March 1st to November
1st 10.30 am-7 pm. Cathedral: Saturdays 10.30 am-6 pm, holidays 1-6
pm; from November 2nd to February 28th 10.30 am-5.30 pm, Satur-
days 10.30 am-5.30 pm, holidays 1.30-5.30 pm. Period uncovering Ca-
thedral floor: holidays 9.30 am-5.30 pm. These artworks can be seen
with only one ticket, Opa pass, valid for 3 days: cost € 12 from March
1st to October 31st and € 8 from November 1st to February 28th; tel.
0577 286300.
I BOTTINI Siena has a network of about 25 km of underground
aqueducts, called “bottini”. This technique for water supply has no
equal in the world, because it was associated with the particular
urban development that allowed the construction of one of the
largest medieval towns. You can visit these authentic works of art
242
Not to be missed
243
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
244
Where to eat
Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the oldest bank in the world. This beau-
tiful palace also houses a collection which include artefacts of artists
linked to the city of Siena, among these: Pietro Lorenzetti, Sano di
Pietro, Stefano di Giovanni called il Sassetta, Rutilio Manetti, Jaco-
po della Quercia, Domenico Beccafumi, Riccio, and so on.
Opening hours: the visit is free, access from the number 3 of
the square, but takes place only three days a year on occasion of
special events: morning of July 2nd during the Palio dedicated to
the Madonna of Provenzano; morning of August 15th on the eve
of the Palio of the Assumption, first Saturday of October, generally
from 10 am to 7 pm.
Where to eat
It is not easy to find places that are great value for money, especially
in places frequented by many tourists. We think we have succeeded,
suggesting simple cozy restaurants and bars with quality food and
affordable prices. And that’s not easy at all. You can also dine inside
the Contradas. The Leocorno, for instance, but also other districts,
arrange lunches or dinners, giving you the opportunity to eat in a
characteristic place. For informations contact the various infopoints
that could possibly make you join a group already made up.
RISTORANTE PIZZERIA ORTO DEI PECCI Via della Giustizia 39, tel.
0577 222201, open every day for lunch and dinner, closed on Mon-
days. Amazing place 200 meters from Piazza del Campo, you can eat
deep in a green valley with a fabulous view of the Torre del Mangia,
surrounded by farmyard animals. This unique place has a history also
unknown to many Sieneses. Is a part of the city already peopled in
the Fourteenth Century (The Pecci Garden was built between 1326
and 1420, and is one of the most well preserved green spaces of medi-
eval Siena) and in 1348 was hit by the plague. It was the place crossed
by those who were sentenced to death before being executed. The
Orto de Pecci is in the former psychiatric hospital area in Siena: the
hospitalized cultivated fields and vegetable gardens and bred cattle
for the needs of the hospital. Today it is managed by the non-profit
245
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
246
Bar and ice cream parlors
247
SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
248
Getting to Siena
Getting to Siena
For tourists arriving by plane there are three possible alternatives:
car, bus, train. In the first case the reference airports are Pisa and
Florence, there is also a small airport in Siena but it has a very small
movement and is ignored by the major airlines. The airplane obvi-
ously requires the use of other means of transportation to be able
to move around; here are some of the possible combinations. If you
come from Pisa you have two options, rent a car or take the train to
Florence and continue by bus to Siena, otherwise take a direct train
to Siena. Sometimes there may be a connecting train to Empoli
and the journey time becomes longer; the express train however
makes many stops, and it takes about 90 minutes to get to Siena.
For travellers driving from southbound direction merge onto A1
Highway and exit at Val di Chiana, then take the freeway Siena
Bettolle, a beautiful road that crosses an amazing area. If you are
driving from northbound direction, merge onto A1 Highway and
exit at Firenze-Impruneta and subsequently at the junction enter
the freeway sgc fi-si that will lead you to Siena in less than an
hour. Hold the attention to the safety cameras. This road will be
very useful for visiting the most beautiful places in Chianti. If you
take the A12 Highway exit at Pisa Centro and take the sgc fi-pi-
li direction Firenze, exit at Scandicci intersection and take the A1
Highway direction Rome: at the first exit Firenze Impruneta, take
the sgc fi-si. In this route there is an alternative itinerary, simpler
but also more expensive (sgc instead is without toll). Exit at Pisa
Nord, it is the first exit of Pisa Centro, take the A11 Highway Fi-
renze Mare towards Florence, and at the intersection with the A1
proceed towards Rome and exit at Firenze Impruneta intersection
and then take the freeway to Siena.
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SIENA THE CITY OF THE PALIO
Parking in Siena
Being a medieval city parking is not easy and it is also expensive,
but we will give you some tips.
• The railway station car park to get there exit at Siena Nord,
take Via Toscana and then Via Giovanni Paolo ii following the
signs for the railway station. Here a large parking awaits you at a
reasonable cost € 2 for the whole day, elsewhere you can also pay
€ 3 for an hour. From the parking lot, an escalator will take you
to Porta Camollia, the territory of the Porcupine Contrada, and
in just 5 minutes walk you will be in the historic center.
• Parking of the Orto dei Pecci (see where to eat in Siena) nice
restaurant with parking near Piazza del Campo; calling and
booking lunch or dinner (prices more than affordable), you will
have the opportunity to park for free.
• Station of Poggibonsi another good alternative is the combi-
nation of car and train, so you should drive to the station. To
get there, take the highway and exit at Poggibonsi sud junction,
pass the first roundabout, turn left, and shortly after you will
meet a second roundabout, Largo Campidoglio, move forward
on Via Vallepiatta, pass the railway and take the 2nd street on
the right, Via Montenero, pass the La Posta restaurant and turn
right: you have arrived in Piazza G. Mazzini. Next to the station
an ample, unpaved and free parking awaits you. All you have to
do is take the train and you will be in Siena in 15 minutes.
Leaving Siena
• To Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Barberino Val d’Elsa and San Cascia-
no in Val di Pesa the car is by far the best means, the sgc fi-si
makes these locations easily reachable within a little time.
• To San Gimignano in this case also the car is the most appro-
priate means to move, taking the sgc fi-si you exit at Poggi-
bonsi North and at the roundabout take the second road.
• To Certaldo same street exit at Poggibonsi Nord and then take
the regional road 429 towards Certaldo.
250
Leaving Siena
251
MONTERIGGIONI
THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE
On the map
Historical outline
This charming and classic medieval hamlet is located halfway be-
tween Colle Val d’Elsa and Siena: is perhaps one of the most evoc-
ative medieval villages in Italy, stuated 14 km from Siena. You can
easily reach it by following the sgc fi-si, leaving the highway at
the homonymous exit. The Republic of Siena erected the castle be-
tween 1214 and 1219. In a dominant and strategic position on the
top of a low natural hillock, overlooking of the Via Cassia. Its ide-
al position allowed to control the Via Cassia/Francigena, the Elsa
and the Staggia Valleys in direction in Florence. It was a defensive
stronghold of Siena, and for this reason Monteriggioni has enjoyed
great fame since the Middle Ages, quoted by Dante Alighieri in The
Divine Comedy. It was repeatedly attacked, but never capitulated
to the assaults of 1244 and 1254 and to the siege of the Florentine
troops in 1269, when the Sienese troops defeated in Colle Val d’El-
sa took refuge inside the castle. The almost perfectly circular walls
have a total length of about 570 meters and were built, as we said,
between 1213 and 1219, following the natural contours of the hill.
There are fourteen towers on square bases set at equidistance, and
two portals or gates. One gate, the Porta Franca opens toward Sie-
na, and the other, San Giovanni Gate, faces Rome to the south. The
main street within the walls connects the two gates in an almost
straight line. The houses placed inside the walls are isolated from
it. Luckily, the village has not been subject to building or tourist
252
Historical outline
253
254
Monteriggioni today
Monteriggioni today
The center of the village, with the central Piazza Roma, is a suc-
cession of delicious craft shops, restaurants serving the typical
local dishes (wild boar, pappardelle, cured meats, Sienese wines),
and homes, incredible but true, still inhabited by locals and not
by tourists. Still nowadays the village, despite being visited every
year by over 700 people, maintains a calm and extremely relaxed
atmosphere.
What to see
PIAZZA ROMA The only large square of the hamlet is paved with
stones coming from the quarries of Rosia, a small village of the Mon-
tagnola Senese. Surrounded by orchards and gardens, it overlooks
the beautiful parish church in Roman-Gothic style, built in 1219,
the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, that has always been one of the
points of reference in this one-horse town life. Presents a facewalls
of travertine golden hue and whose ashlars are arranged on hori-
zontal courses and parallel and are very regular. Inside the church
you can admire two tabernacles of the xv century, a painting of the
Madonna of Lippo Vanni.
MURA DI CINTA A nice and relaxing path allowing you to see the
village from the top; it offers the visitor a different perspective of
the country. Admire calmly even the beautiful panorama offered
by the surrounding hills that gives the sojourner a typical snapshot
of the Tuscan landscape and of the Montagnola Senese. Particular-
ly fascinating is the spectacle offered by the surrounding fields and
hills between late spring and early summer when the rapeseed dyes
a large part of the landscape bright yellow.
PORTA MURATA It is the third door present in the boundary
walls, the upper part of it is still visible along the white road that
runs along the walls externally. The burial of the lower part is prob-
ably due to difensive needs, in fact the entire walls were reinforced
255
MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE
with a robust basement to face the advent of new and more pow-
erful firearms.
PORTA FRANCA OR ROMEA This gateway is the main access to Mon-
teriggioni, facing the direction of Rome and stands below a tower
with a high pointed arch. In the past it very likely had a drawbridge,
that was lowered to bridge a moat that has now disappeared. To the
left of the arch is an inscription commemorating the foundation of
Monteriggioni in the 1220s, while a plaque on the right celebrates
the newly-founded unified state of Italy, in 1860.
PORTA DI PONENTE This gateway, facing Florence, stands beside
a tower, and consists in a simple semi-circular arch. Some battle-
ments incorporated in the walling above indicate that the defensive
wall was probably lower. Similar battlements can also be seen in the
facing of the walls on the east side. On the right of the entrance,
which used to have an outer, protective wall, a plaque quotes the
lines from Dante mentioning Monteriggioni.
MUSEO DELLE ARMI AND ARMATURE This museum houses faithful
reproductions of medieval and Renaissance weapons and armour.
Accurate models also illustrate siege engines and siege techniques
is use in the same periods. Stand out the armors of the Templar
Knights, who safeguarded the roads traveled by pilgrims going to
Rome along the Via Francigena. Visitors can enjoy the unusual ex-
perience of handling and trying on some weapons and pieces of
armour, situated in special parts of the museum.
256
Festivals and events at Monteriggioni
the hamlet seems to return to 1200, when it was not just a castle
guarded by a fierce military garrison.
4 THE CHALLENGE OF VALDELSA This event precedes the medieval
feast. Tournaments see 13th century knights compete and battles
between piker men, halberdiers, infantrymen and arquebusiers
take place. The event takes place in the green area next to the park-
ing lot the “il cipressino”.
4 SLOW TRAVEL FESTIVAL Is a slow travel festival on foot and by
bike. It lasts three days, generally it’s held in September, and pro-
poses new models of tourism: instead of crowded places, even if un-
doubtedly fascinating, re-launches contemplative tourism based on
slowness, such as stopping to admire a valley or a typical farmhouse,
an abbey in the middle of nowhere, to cherish the setting sun paint
the surrounding area with a thousand colors. Invites you to enjoy the
pleasure of sitting at the table of a rustic trattoria under the shade of
a pergola, enjoying an excellent dish with a nice glass of wine. If you
are interested in this kind of tourism you will find everything very
stimulating, if you are not, try this experience anyway, you might dis-
cover it’s captivating.
4 CHRISTMAS EVE Torchlight at night from Monteriggioni to Ba-
dia a Isola where the Christmas Mass is celebrated.
BADIA A ISOLA. THE UNKNOWN BEAUTIFUL VILLAGE It seems impossi-
ble and yet it is so, in Tuscany there are places full of charm ignored
by mass tourism. This is the case of Badia a Isola, located on the Via
Francigena, 4 km far from Monteriggioni. It is gathered around
the Benedectine Abbey of San Salvatore, monastery built at the
beginning of the year 1000. The fields surrounding Badia a Isola
were once a large swamp or bog that accumulated rain water from
Monte Maggio then flowing into the Padule “di Canneto”. Its priv-
ileged position greatly contributed to increasing the power of the
abbey, which enjoyed great prestige throughout the Middle Ages.
The black plague of 1300 decreed the end of the village. In fact, the
monks did not have room to bury the dead, threw them in a ditch
257
MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE
near the well that supplied water to the country contaminating the
water irremediably and infesting the country and its inhabitants.
Inside the beautiful Romanesque Church it is still possible to ad-
mire a fresco where Badia a Isola seems to float in the water.
Opening hours: from April 1st to September 15th 9.30 am-1 pm
and 2-7.30 pm, from September 16th to October 31st 9.30 am-1.30
pm and 2-6 pm, from November 1st to January 15th 10 am-1.30 pm
and 2-4 pm. Tickets price: € 2 visit of the walls, € 3 museum visit.
Walls + museum visit € 4.
Where to eat
OSTERIA GELATERIA ANTICO TRAVAGLIO Piazza Roma 6, tel. 0577
304718, open every day, except Mondays, from 8 am to 7 pm. The
restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner from March 1st
to November 1st. Closed during wintertime, it reopens for lunch
and dinner from Christmas to Epiphany. This restaurant is both
an ice-cream parlor and an excellent restaurant. Absolutely do not
miss the pici with bread crumbs, new oil and bacon, or the pappar-
delle with meat sauce. In general, it offers all the recipes of Sienese
and Tuscan cuisine, absolutely a nice place.
FUTURA OSTERIA DI BADIA ISOLA Località Badia Isola 7, tel. 0577
301240, open every day, except Mondays and Tuesdays, for lunch and
dinner 12.30 am-2 pm and 7.30-10 pm. Excellent and characteristic
restaurant in the center of the village. Typical Tuscan cuisine with atten-
tion to every minimum detail, excellent ribollita and Florentine steak.
BAR DELL’ORSO Località Colonna Monteriggioni, tel. 0577
305074, always open from 5 o’clock in the morning until midnight.
Located on the junction at the exit of the Firenze-Siena highway,
this bar is also a good restaurant where you can stop for a complete
meal or a quick snack.
LA BETTOLA DEI VINANDRI Via Emilio Berrettini 38, tel. 0577 305015,
closes on Saturdays and Sundays for lunch and the second and fourth
258
The beauties of the Val d’Elsa
259
MONTERIGGIONI THE FORTIFIED VILLAGE
260
SAN GIMIGNANO
On the map
261
262
Historical outline
Historical outline
The history of San Gimignano is very ancient, the first records date
back to the ii-iii century bc. Its foundation should perhaps be as-
cribed to the Etruscans while derives its name from St Jeminianus,
a 4th-century bishop of Modena, who saved the city from Toti-
la appearing miraculously to the invaders terrifying them. It was
a village very small devoted to agriculture and located on the Via
Francigena which connected Lucca and Siena. In medieval times
it owed its prosperity to its position on the Via Francigena, an im-
portant road for commerce and the main pilgrim route to Rome
from northern and central Europe. It was known as “San Gimi-
gnano delle belle Torri” from the tower-houses of its noble fami-
lies, most of which were constructed in the 12th–13th centuries. In
1119 the city, grown considerably, was declared a free municipality
initially ruled by Consuls, and subsequently by a Podestà that was
periodically renewed. For reasons of impartiality he was always
“stranger” and remained in office six months. Despite the bitter
clashes between Guelphs and Ghibellines the town prospered in
agricultural activities and businesses, grew up in the productions
of Greek wine and Vernaccia, saffron, wool and in the activity of
loansharking. By the middle of 1300s it counted 13000 in-habi-
tants and the size of the current historical center was enclosed in
a second circle of walls. This phase of growth stops in the middle
of the xiv century for two reasons: the annexation of the city to
Florence, which took place in the context of the long conflict that
opposed Florence to Siena and the plague of 1348 that decimated
the population. The depopulation, the economic decline and the
loss of political autonomy produced increasingly evident damage,
the Seventeenth Century represents the lowest point in the history
of the town; it became, after the plague of 1631, one of the poorer
places of the Grand Duchy with just 3,000 inhabitants. The eigh-
teenth-century reforms of the Grand Duke of Lorraine reversed
the trend, agriculture and population began to grow again. The re-
discovery of the Middle Ages in the mid nineteenth century will
263
SAN GIMIGNANO
Useful addresses
MUNICIPAL POLICE Via Santo Stefano 3, tel. 0577 990346.
CARABINIERI Piazzale Martiri di Montemaggio, tel. 0577 940313.
FARMACIA DOTTOR BORSINI Via San Matteo 17, tel. 0577 940397.
FARMACIA COMUNALE Piazza della Cisterna, tel. 0577 99 03 69.
PRO LOCO SAN GIMIGNANO TOURIST INFORMATIONS OFFICE Piazza
Duomo 1, tel. 0577 940008, opening hours: from March 1st to Oc-
264
Festivals and events
tober 3rd, open every day from 10am to 1 pm and from 3 to 7 pm,
from November 1st to February 28th open every day from 10 am to 1
pm and from 2 to 6 pm.
RECOMMENDED PARKINGS Piazzale Martiri di Montemaggio,
but there are others parkings around the walls, near Porta San
Giovanni.
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SAN GIMIGNANO
What to see
The entrance to the town is at its southern tip, through the Porta San
Giovanni (1262), the finest of the town gates. It is very crowded, but
this should not stop you from looking around. Via San Giovanni pro-
vides a good view of the tall tower of Palazzo del Popolo at the end. It
leads past the Pisan-Romanesque façade of the deconsecrated church
of San Francesco (a little further on the same side you can admire the
beautiful gothic style windows of the former convent of Santa Ca-
terina), and past the 14th-century Palazzo Pratellesi (now the public
library) to the Arco dei Becci, another ancient gate beside several tall
266
What to see
267
SAN GIMIGNANO
having ordered any kind of work and not knowing any explanation,
attributed what happened to the devil. Since then the tower bears
this name.
DUOMO OR COLLEGIATA DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA This building
with a bare façade, houses authentic masterpieces of Florentine and
Sienese masters of the period. It is divided into three arches, on the
upper part of the counter-façade is represented the martyrdom of
San Sebastiano by Benozzo Gozzoli, while on the central wall is de-
picted the Last Judgment by Taddeo di Bartolo. On the right wall
there is The Old Testament cycle, presented on three levels, compris-
es 26 episodes from the book of Genesis. It is signed and dated 1367
by Bartolo di Fredi. [Figure 58 Piazza della Cisterna, p. 331].
Cappella di Santa Fina: this beautifully preserved Renaissance
chapel, off the south aisle, was commissioned from Giuliano da
Maiano to honour Fina, a poor and devout girl who bore paralysis
and severe bodily affliction with Christian fortitude. She is the pa-
tron saint of the town. The altar and marble shrine with exquisite
bas-reliefs are by Benedetto da Maiano (1472–77), and the frescoes
decorating the vault and walls of the chapel (c. 1475) are by Dome-
nico Ghirlandaio: (right lunette) St Gregory announcing to Santa
Fina her imminent death (which was to occur on the day of his own
feast), and the Miraculous flowering of violets on her wooden bed;
(left lunette) Funeral of Santa Fina.
MUSEO DI ARTE SACRA It’s not very big, so it doesn’t take long to
visit it, but it would be a mistake to skip it. It is adjacent to the Ca-
thedral and preserves a few works, in addition to others from the
churches of the area; inside a wooden panel by Bartolo of Freddi
of the Madonna della Rosa, and the Crucifix by Benedetto from
Maiano, also exhibits numerous and prestigious reliquaries and
fragments of frescoes from the Duomo.
Opening hours: from April 1st to October 31st from 10 am to
7.30 pm Mondays to Fridays, Saturdays 10 am to 5.30 pm, Sundays
from 12.30 am to 7.30 pm; from November 1st to March 31st, 10 am-
268
What to see
269
SAN GIMIGNANO
Where to eat
San Gimignano as well as all tourist places also offers many eateries
to its visitors, some good and other masked traps for the tourist.
We provide you some reliable addresses of trattorias, sub shops,
pizzerias, bars and ice cream parlors that combine the quality of
their products with courtesy of the service.
TRATTORIA CHIRIBIRI [€€] Piazza della Madonna 1, tel. 0577 941948,
open every day, except Wednesdays, for lunch and dinner. The restau-
rant is sited in a small square in Via San Giovanni. The restaurant is
small and comfortable, it is located in a subsoil, but also has some out-
door tables; in addition to the cold cuts and cheese platters stand out
270
Bars and ice cream parlors
the game dishes, the homemade “lavagnette” pasta with wild boar ra-
gout and the tagliata with red radicchio. Excellent wines of the house,
the place is small but it is quite popular: we recommend booking.
TRATTORIA LA LOGGIA Via Baccanella, tel. 0577 907267, open all
days except Mondays, for lunch and dinner 11.30 am-3.30 pm and
7-9.30 pm. The bar has obviously different opening hours. Qui-
et local just outside San Gimignano, is 5 minutes from Porta San
Giovanni, as well as being a good typical Tuscan trattoria, essentially
cooking local products, it is also a bar. Excellent are the first courses,
in particular the pici with mushrooms and the pappa al pomodoro,
among the main dishes, excellent tagliata.
DA I’MARIANI Via Quercecchio 19, tel. 338 2334399, always open
from 11 am to 8 pm, closes during the months of January and Feb-
ruary. Small and cozy place, here you can enjoy delicious sandwich-
es and fantastic platters of cured meats and cheeses, taste truffle
honey. It is a very nice place, the owner is a real good laugh.
RICCA PIZZA Via San Giovanni 94, tel. 0577 941817, always open
from 10 am to 8 pm. Small restaurant at the entrance of the village,
superb pizza, either the pizza by the slice than the regular one that
can be tasted sitting at a table. The owner has another similar pizze-
ria in Piazza del Duomo, taking Via San Matteo, but in wintertime
the restaurant closes.
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SAN GIMIGNANO
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CERTALDO ALTO
On the map
273
274
Historical outline
Historical outline
Very close to San Gimignano, even if it is sited in the province of
Florence, this historic village is located on the hills that separate
the Valdelsa from Valdipesa, at 67 meters of altitude. Its position
has always represented a strategic strong point for the Florentines.
Rich in history and traditions, Certaldo gave birth to the great
Giovanni Boccaccio who is still very present in city life (many lo-
cals and many initiatives bear his name), despite being dead for
more than 700 years. The exact location of the house is ignored,
but it is certain that he owned a house: Boccaccio is known to have
spent part of his later years here, enjoying a peaceful and simple life,
before his death in 1375.
To get the first documented records about Certaldo we must go
back to the xii century, when Federico Barbarossa ceded the first
residential nucleus of the village to the Alberti family. Later it en-
tered under the sphere of influence of Florence becoming the seat
of the Vicariate of Val di Pesa. This imposed the expansion of the
Castrum and the construction of new buildings, including the
Palazzo Pretorio and a new city wall. In fact, the enemies of Flor-
ence did not take long to show up and the city suffered numerous
attacks, the worst was undoubtedly that of 1479 by the militia of
the King of Naples. When the Grand Dukes of Tuscany decided to
suppress the Vicarial seat, 1784, a long period of decadence began
for Certaldo and lasted until the nineteenth century.
Certaldo today
Certaldo borders the towns of San Gimignano, Barberino Val
d’Elsa, Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, Montespertoli, Gambassi and Cas-
telfiorentino. The image that it offers of itself is really suggestive,
the structure of the village is typically medieval, characterized by
narrow streets and the red color of its buildings. It is still today
equipped with three access gates, the Porta Alberti to the north,
the Porta del Sole, which still preserves the Medici coat of arms
to the south and the Porta Rivellino which opens onto the oldest
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CERTALDO ALTO
276
To go to Certaldo Alto
To go to Certaldo Alto
It is best to park in Certaldo Basso, from Piazza Boccaccio leaves ev-
ery 15 minutes a funicular railway that will take you to Piazza Alber-
ti, Certaldo Alto. Opening hours from April 15th to October 15th
from 7.30 am to 1.00 pm. From October 16th to April 14th from 7.30
am to 7.30 pm. Cost of single tickets € 1.50 per person, return € 1.20.
Useful addresses
MUNICIPAL POLICE Via Borgo Garibaldi 37, tel. 0571 668547.
CARABINIERI BORGATA GIUSEPPE GARIBALDI tel. 0571 665874.
FARMACIE RIUNITE Piazza Boccaccio 46, tel. 0571 668150.
TOURIST INFORMATION. IAT CERTALDO Palazzo Pretorio, Piazzetta
del Vicariato, tel. 0571 656721- 0571 661219, open from April to
October 9.30 am-1.30 pm and 2.30-7.30 pm, info@sistemamu-
sealecertaldo.it.
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CERTALDO ALTO
What to see
SAN TOMMASO AND PROSPERO DISSACRATE CHURCH It was the
oldest church in the country, dating back to the beginning of the
xiii century. Because of the landslide, it had already begun to ruin
in the mid-1500s. In 1788 it was abandoned and later leased to an
earthenware merchant who used it as a laboratory and warehouse.
Use that has largely ruined the frescoes on the walls. In the xix
century it returns to public ownership, the frescoes and the roof
are restored. The one-nave interior has no altars and furnishings.
At the center of the Church is the Tabernacle of the Condemned
1464-1465, by Benozzo Gozzoli and Giusto d’Andrea.
PALAZZO PRETORIO This former residence of the Alberti fam-
ily is the most important monument of Certaldo, its red brick
façade surmounted by merlons resulting from a restoration of the
last century. Its surface is covered with plaques and coats of arms
of the Vicars, two of them were made by Della Robbia. On the
right there is a clock tower of 1484 and the loggia of the Vicari-
ate, a staircase leads to a doorway, passing it we enter a hall with
an irregular shape. On the left there is the Cavaliere room, now
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279
CERTALDO ALTO
280
What to see
façade from the 13th century, and is located halfway between the
Casa di Boccaccio and the Palazzo Pretorio, is also the access to
the Museum of Sacred Art. At the center of the only nave is the
tomb of Giovanni Boccaccio, marked by a bas-relief by the sculp-
tor Mario Moschi inspired by the first known portrait of the poet,
painted in the xv century by Andrea del Castagno and exhibited
at the Uffizi in Florence. At a short distance is buried another fig-
ure dear to the Certaldesi, La Beata Giulia della Rena, 1319-1367,
who lived and died in the nearby convent and to which already in
1372 was dedicated an altar for which Antonia, a nun according to
some daughter by Paolo Uccello, realized the predella at the end of
the xv century with the Stories visible today on the high altar. But
the most important work is probably the Christ of Petrognano, an
imposing wooden sculpture of more than two meters, probably be-
fore the xii century, perhaps coming from a Church of Semifonte,
the city in the municipality of Barberino Val d’Elsa destroyed by
the Florentines in 1202 or by the nearby Sant’Appiano.
Opening hours: in wintertime from 10.30 am to 2.30 pm, in
summertime from 10.30 am to 5.30 pm.
PALAZZO GIANNOZZI Located between Piazza S.S. Annunziata
and the Porta del Sole, host this unique exhibition that collects
nails of all ages and all measures, tools and utensils related to the
rural culture. This collection was created over decades of activity
by Giancarlo Masini, an artist, carpenter, storyteller and designer
who had his workshop in Certaldo Alto. To his memory was titled
in 1994 the Golden Nail, prize awarded each year to the symbolic
artist of Mercantia, the event that takes place every year in the sum-
mer along the streets of Certaldo Alto from Wednesday to Sunday,
attracting many artists, jugglers and people in the village. The mu-
seum is part of the city museum system, therefore it can be visited
as the other museums way, single museum ticket cost € 1.
MULTIPLE ENTRANCE TO MUSEUMS There is a chance to visit two
or even three museums on one ticket, it’s a convenient opportunity
to catch, the museums are interesting and their close proximity is
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CERTALDO ALTO
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Eating out of Certaldo
rant, serving a fantastic onion soup and excellent risotto with Pien-
za cheese, good tagliata.
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VOLTERRA
On the map
284
285
VOLTERRA
Historical outline
Closed within mighty walls, set on a hill 545 meters high above sea
level, Volterra, the ancient Velathri, dominates and divides the val-
leys of the rivers Cecina and Era. Its isolated position, far from the
sea and the main urban settlements, has favored the growth of its
strategic importance over the centuries. Rich in history and culture,
still shown today by the monuments that it preserves. Its buildings in
gray stone, the city walls, the palaces of the center and the magnifi-
cent Piazza dei Priori, still bear witness to its ancient splendor. The
earliest human settlements date back to the Neolithic, but it is only
from the vii century bc that one can speak of an inhabited area. Ve-
lathri was then one of the main centers of Etruscan civilization, with
a population estimated at around 25,000, a lot if you think that to-
day’s population is 11000 inhabitants. Although the city was closed
within its walls, it was repeatedly conquered, but managed to main-
tain some independence until iii bc when it was conquered by the
Romans. Traces of that period can be seen in the Acropolis and in
the Roman Theater. Then came the Heruli, the Goths and the Lom-
bards who ruled it up to the viii century. It gained some importance
under the Lombards and was for a time the residence of the Lom-
bard kings. In the 1200s, however, Volterra assumed the appearance
of a city with the establishment of a municipal structure and the con-
struction of monuments that still characterize it, the new city walls,
the Palazzo del Popolo. Although it is located in the province of
Pisa, Volterra is about 16 km from San Gimignano easily reachable
in a short time.
Useful addresses
TOURIST INFORMATION Piazza dei Priori 19/20, tel. 0588 87257,
open all year round at 9.30 am-1 pm and 2-6 pm. You can buy here
the Volterra Card. Valid 72 hours allows you to visit: Palazzo dei Pri-
ori, Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, Pinacoteca, Alabaster Ecomuseum,
Acropolis, Roman Theater. € 14 full price, family ticket € 22. Valid for
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Festivals and events
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VOLTERRA
What to see
PIAZZA DEI PRIORI Center and heart of the city surrounded by
elegant buildings, in ancient times was simply called “square”, later
was called Piazza Olmo, due to the presence of an elm tree under
which the council met before the construction of the Palace of the
Priors, of course. The centre of political life in Volterra has always
been, in the summer, the venue for artistic and cultural events and
for the weekly market in Volterra. In the square coexist bar and
cafés with ancient noble palaces, and in addition to the mentioned
Palazzo dei Priori stand out the Palazzo Pretorio with the Torre del
Porcellino, the Palazzo vescovile. The latter built as a grain house
(because in ancient times it was a grain warehouse) then became a
bishop’s seat after 1472 when the old Bishop Palace was demolished
to build the Maschio. Palazzo Incontri, current seat of the Cassa di
Risparmio di Volterra, was the seat of the Seminary after the Coun-
cil of Trento until the end of the 18th century. Palazzo Monte Pio,
at the beginning of the century had conversion works to harmo-
nize it with the other medieval buildings of the square, currently
results a set of towers of the thirteenth century well visible from the
rear Vicolo Mazzoni.
PALAZZO DEI PRIORI Built by maestro Riccardo in 1239, it pres-
ents the shape of a parallelepiped. The façade is distinguished by
three rows of mullioned windows and the many coat of arms of the
magistrates who ruled Volterra when it passed under the dominion
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What to see
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VOLTERRA
was home to the Podestà and the Capitani del Popolo. The two
buildings rise on the areas previously occupied by the houses of the
Belforti, Allegretti, Topi, Affricanti, Magalotti and Malatragi fam-
ilies. In the interior there are isolated coats of arms and attached,
but in this context two figures of wild boar stand out, one in the
lower part roughly carved, the other that protrudes from above on
a double shelf. At first some people thought that these figures rep-
resented giant rats because in the square the Topi family owned
many buildings. The population of Volterra called them piglets,
however, this gave the tower its name, one of the oldest in the city,
which in fact is called Torre del Porcellino. Currently, the building
houses offices of the state police and municipal police, so it can not
be visited.
DUOMO DI VOLTERRA OR CATTEDRALE DI SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA Pi-
azza del Duomo. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was built
in 1120 on a pre-existing church dedicated to Santa Maria. It was
expanded in the second half of the century on a project by Nicola
Pisano, modified during the sixteenth century and was the subject
of restoration in the biennium 1842-1843. The façade, with two or-
ders, has a tympanum adorned with a blind loggia, marble portal and
large rose window. On the left the Chapel of the Addolorata extends
the façade with elegant single-lancet windows, while on the bottom
rises the quadrangular bell tower rebuilt in 1493 and subsequently
lowered for reasons of stability. The interior is Roman in shape with a
Latin cross with three naves, the result of various interventions made
over the centuries. The drawings of the six altars that make up the
two Montecatini stone aisles date back to the early decades of the
sixteenth century, formed by a large coffered arch with festoons of
flowers and central fruit, coats of arms and emblems. In 1580-1584
the bishop Serguidi made touch up and covered the capitals of the
twenty-two columns with stucco, the coffered ceiling was carried
out with figures of saints and noble coats of arms, designed and put
in place by Francesco Capriani, sculpted by Jacopo Pavolini from
Castelfiorentino and painted from Fulvio della Tuccia. The works
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What to see
of the nineteenth and twentieth century gave the Duomo its present
appearance, in particular with the last works the fifteenth-century
organs were eliminated and today’s gothic form was given to the
transept. Above the high altar is the beautiful Ciborium by Mino da
Fiesole (1471), who is also the author of two angels placed above the
two columns of the xii century. Behind the altar is the chapel with
the Coro Ligneo (1404). The many chapels contain relics and valu-
able works, among them: the fifteenth-century wooden sculpture
by Francesco di Valdambrino, the canvases by Domenico Zampieir,
known as Domenichino, by Domenico Curradi and Jacopo Chi-
menti called “l’Empoli” depicting San Carlo in prayer before the Vir-
gin. Among these valuable works stands out the polychrome wooden
group of the Deposition 1288, a masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture
by an unknown sculptor from Volterra. The Chapel of Our Lady of
Sorrows, has two niches containing painted terracotta scenes of the
Adoration of the Magi and the Nativity (c. 1474), attributed to Luca
and Andrea della Robbia, the latter with a charming frescoed back-
ground by Benozzo Gozzoli. On the left aisle stands the pergamum
of the xii century, remodeled in 1584 and probably the work of the
Pisan sculptor Bonamico.
Opening hours: every day from 8.30 to 12.30 am and 3 to 6 pm,
Friday at 4 pm. For information, contact the tourist consortium,
tel. 058 886 099.
BATTISTERO DI SAN GIOVANNI It was built in the second half of
the thirteenth century, stands in front of the Duomo and is char-
acterized by its octagonal shape. The architect was inspired by
Nicola Pisano, the side facing the Cathedral is coated with bands
of white and green marble while the capitals of the columns and
the doorjambs are sculpted with motifs that reproduce leaves, fig-
ures of animals and human heads. Completes the façade a single
lancet window and in the architrave heads of Jesus, Mary and the
Apostles. Inside six large niches and eight single lancet windows
frame a space where the dome of the early sixteenth century does
not line up with the columns in the corners of the octagon. In the
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What to see
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What to see
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VOLTERRA
prevent any revolts against the new lords. The building consists
of two parts: the old Rocca, built in 1342 by the Duke of Athens
Gualtieri vi di Brienne, governor-king of Florence, subsequently
modified by Lorenzo il Magnifico, and the New Fortress, connect-
ed with the old, also built by Lorenzo il Magnifico in 1475. Today
it houses a medium security prison, for this reason it cannot be vis-
ited, with rare exceptions, and therefore it is necessary to admire its
majesty from the outside. On special occasions the Fortress turns
into a restaurant open to the public, it is a rehabilitation project for
detainees who become chefs for one evening, the project is called
“galeotte dinners” and in addition of taking care of the kitchen, in-
mates also take care of the service at the tables. Next to the fortress
is Porta Selci, leads inside the city through a simple arch, it was
built in the 16th century to replace the old door destroyed with the
construction of the new fortress.
ACROPOLI ETRUSCA It is located at the top of a hill near the Medi-
ci Fortress and the Enrico Fiumi Park. The area includes buildings
from different periods, from the Etruscan to the Roman and me-
dieval, all made for religious purposes. There are the remains of a
cistern for the collection of rainwater, an Augustan pool and two
temple-shaped buildings called A and B: the first rectangle dates
back to the ii century bc, while the second is of the iii century ad.
Opening hours: in winter, weekends at 10 am-4 pm; from
March to October: every day 10.30 am-5.30 pm. Admission: € 5
full, reduced € 3, the museum is included in the Volterra card.
ANFITEATRO ROMANO AND AREA ARCHEOLOGICA Via Francesco
Ferrucci. It is just outside the medieval walls near the Porta Fioren-
tina, built in the 1st century ad The amphitheater stands on an an-
cient Etruscan site and is one of the best preserved and most beauti-
ful in Italy. Behind the theater are the remains of the Roman baths
and the Roman forum, 4th century bc. The site was used in the
Middle Ages as a dump. It was discovered in 1951 following archae-
ological excavations. In winter, when the area is closed, entering
from the door inside the walls, turning right you can admire, for
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Where to eat
free, the entire area from the terrace above Via Lungo le Mura del
Mandorlo. From there you can see the vaulted corridors that con-
nect the stage behind the scenery flat and the covered area behind
the theater where more than 2000 spectators met during the break.
Opening hours: from March to mid-November every day from
10.30 am to 5.30 pm, in winter: open only on weekends from 10 am
to 4 pm.
PALAZZO VITI Via dei Sarti 41. It is one of the most beautiful
private residences in Italy, its 12 rooms open to the public, con-
taining beautiful furniture, paintings, porcelain and alabaster
collections and other objects that represent Italian, European
and Eastern art from 1400 to 1900. Everything has remained in-
tact, the palace was object of the visit of princes and sovereigns.
The director Luchino Visconti has shot some of his films in the
building. The palace has magnificently frescoed rooms and is still
inhabited by the descendants of the Viti family.
Opening hours: from March 31st to November 1st open every
day from 10 am to 1 pm and from 2 pm to 6.30 pm, from Novem-
ber 2nd to March 30th open only by appointment. Cost: € 5 full,
reduced € 3; for information tel. 0588 84047.
LE BALZE They are located outside Volterra, interrupting the
view of the gentle rolling landscape in an abrupt and wild way.
The cliffs are an impressive natural phenomenon of erosion that
has led to the destruction of the largest necropolis in the city.
Only a few graves, around the Badia Camaldolese, were found in
the only patches of territory that remained intact near the plateau
of Guerruccia, in the extreme western part of the city.
Where to eat
We point out some reliable places, taverns, pizzerias, sandwich
shops, where to stop for a lunch or a snack.
LA MANGIATOIA Via Antonio Gramsci 35, tel. 0588 85695, open from
11 am to 12 pm, closed on Wednesdays, excluding the months of
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VOLTERRA
The town is in the province of Pisa, which you can reach by car
in about 90 minutes through fantastic landscapes. Along the road
that leads to Colle Val d’Elsa, you will have at your disposal the sgc
fi-si and along this artery you can reach Florence, Siena and other
places of Chianti in a little time.
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300
Figure 3 Colors of Chianti
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302
Figure 6 Typical Butcher of Chianti
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304
Figure 10 Via Machiavelli
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306
Figure 13 Castello di Gabbiano
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308
Figure 17 Pesa River
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310
Figure 21 Fresco of tuscan unknown
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312
Figure 25 Farmhouse between S. Casciano and Mercatale
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314
Figure 29 Montefioralle
Figure 29 Montefioralle
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316
Figure 33 Castello di Mugnana
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318
Figure 37 Cellars Vicchiomaggio
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320
Figure 41 Kiosk of Badia a Passignano
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322
Figure 44 Porta Fiorentina
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324
Figure 47 S. Arcangelo a Semifonte
Figure 48 Linari
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Figure 50 Duomo
326
Figure 51 Orsanmichele
Figure 51 Orsanmichele
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Figure 53 Bridges over the River Arno from the Vasari Corridor
328
Figure 55 Sunset on the Duomo
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330
Figure 58 Piazza della Cisterna
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Figure 61 Palazzo dei Priori
333
Contents
TO THE READER..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................5
THE CHIANTI FIORENTINO................................................................................................................................................................................. 6
HISTORICAL OUTLINE................................................................................................................................................................................................... 9
Black rooster legend
............................................................................................................................................................................................... 11
WINE, OIL, CURED MEATS. LOCAL FOOD DELIGHTS............................................................................ 12
Tuscan cuisine.....................................................................................................................................................................................................................13
Chianti wineries................................................................................................................................................................................................................18
VISITING CHIANTI................................................................................................................................................................................................................19
Plan your trip...........................................................................................................................................................................................................................19
Arriving in Chianti.........................................................................................................................................................................................................20
Moving around Chianti.......................................................................................................................................................................................22
Staying in Chianti ........................................................................................................................................................................................................26
Top must-sees in Chianti...............................................................................................................................................................................30
Chianti paths: a world apart....................................................................................................................................................................30
Where to eat out in Chianti........................................................................................................................................................................ 34
SAN CASCIANO IN VAL DI PESA.........................................................................................................................................................36
Historical outline........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 38
San Casciano today..................................................................................................................................................................................................39
Useful addresses and contacts...................................................................................................................................................... 40
Festivals and events.................................................................................................................................................................................................41
Gourmet food and…................................................................................................................................................................................................. 43
Not to be missed........................................................................................................................................................................................................... 46
Restaurants and eateries............................................................................................................................................................................ 49
Near San Casciano........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 54
Mercatale Val di Pesa............................................................................................................................................................................................ 54
Montefiridolfi.........................................................................................................................................................................................................................57
Bargino and surroundings......................................................................................................................................................................... 58
Cerbaia...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................60
Sant’Andrea in Percussina......................................................................................................................................................................... 64
Other things to do ......................................................................................................................................................................................................70
Itineraries from San Casciano............................................................................................................................................................ 72
What to see arrived at Tavarnelle.................................................................................................................................................. 74
What to see in Barberino................................................................................................................................................................................75