Basics of Garment Construction PDF
Basics of Garment Construction PDF
Basics of
Garment Construction
Introduction
Sewing is a creative and interesting art and skill. To
prepare a well-finished garment, its stitching is done by
combining the different garment components. Garment
construction is a technical accomplishment that requires
the knowledge and skills of basic sewing techniques—
application of stitches, seams, darts, gathers, pleats
and edge finishing, etc. Its appropriate application in
garment construction is necessary for a good quality
product. A garment that is made, will be attractive if it
fits well, and proper attention is paid to its finer details.
A Sewing Machine Operator must be aware about
the two sides of the fabric—the right side and wrong
side. These can be mainly identified by the selvedge of
the fabric. Generally the selvedges appear less finished
on the wrong side and are smoother on the right side.
It is essential to know and practise the various types
of stitch, especially constructive stitches which include
temporary and permanent stitches. To construct the
garment, various types of seam are also used such as
flat seam, lapped seam, French seam, slot seam, etc.
The edges of garments are finished using different type
of edge finishes like pinked finish, edge stitched finish,
double stitch finish, etc. This Unit will help you learn
about the various type of stitches, seams, edge finishes,
etc., all of which have a key role in garment construction.
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Stitches
Almost every garment or other stitched articles we sew,
needs some hand stitches. Thus, we should be able to
handle the needle and thread to carry out hand stitches
competently. Before learning stitching on the sewing
machine, one should learn the basic hand stitches
which are very commonly used in the manufacturing
of garments and other articles. A stitch may be defined
as one unit of conformation resulting from one or more
strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping or
passing into or through the material. Intralooping is the
passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed
by the same thread, while interlooping is the passing
of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a
different thread.
The basic hand stitches are divided into two types
depending on their use.
Constructive stitches
It is a line made by a portion of sewing thread passed
over and under an equal or unequal number of threads
for construction purpose. Such stitches can be classified
as temporary and permanent stitches.
1. Temporary stitches
Such stitches are used to hold the garment or fabric
pieces together before permanent stitches are made.
These stitches are also known as tacking or basting
stitches. Usually this stitch is horizontal and it is worked
from the right to the left side with a knot.
Various kind of tacking/basting stitches are as
follows.
(i) Even basting
It is used to hold the fabric together temporarily, but
more securely than in uneven basting. Make even
stitches of about ¼ inch to ⅜ inch long. When easing
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Decorative stitches
These stitches are also known as embroidery stitches.
This art is practised on all kinds of pliable material
with different types of threads, precious and semi-
precious stones, pearls, shells, beads, etc. There are
different kind of hand embroidery stitches. Some
Fig. 3.10: Blind hemming stitch of the common hand embroidery stitches are stem
stitch, chain stitch, herringbone stitch, feather
stitch, lazy-daisy, satin stitch, cross stitch, Bullion
stitch, etc., which are used to decorate garments, home
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Activity 2
Prepare samples of hand stitches as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12" x 12")
2. Needle
3. Thread
4. Frame
5. Pen
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. A3-sized chart sheet
9. Glue
10. Markers/coloured pens
Procedure
1. Use slip basting, running stitch, back stitch and hem stitch
to finish four sides of the sample fabric.
2. Make different constructive (temporary and permanent)
stitches on the sample.
3. Paste them on the chart sheet and write where they are used.
4. Label them.
5. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.
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Flat seam
It is the basic seam (functional seam), joining the edges
of two pieces of fabric. This seam is used on medium
weight fabrics where there is no special strain on the
seam. Mostly, plain straight stitch is used to stitch the
seam. Flat seam can be used on most of the garments
and the seam edges should always be finished as
appropriate for the type of fabric. Although a flat seam
is always made with the right side of the fabric facing,
some other seams will require to be initiated with the
wrong sides of the fabric facing. With the right sides
of the fabric facing, pin the fabric together at both the
ends of the seam line and at intervals along the seam
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(c)
(d)
Fig.3.13 (a, b, c, d) Flat seam
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French seam
It is a narrow seam generally used for fine fabrics
or for those fabrics which fray easily. It is a seam
within a seam. When finished, it should be about
¼ inch or less in width. To make the French
(a)
seam, place the wrong sides of the fabric together
(Fig. 3.17 a). Pin and tack in position close to the
seam line. Stitch ¼ inch to the right of the seam line
to the end of the seam. Press as stitched. Pressing
can be done using hands to form a crease or using
a heat pressing iron. Then trim the seam allowance
to ⅛ inch. Press the seam open. Then turn the right
sides of the fabric together. Fold on the stitch line
(b)
Fig.3.17 (a, b) French seam and press. Tack in position. Stitch along the seam
line and press as stitched (Fig. 3.17 b).
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Lingerie seam
It is used mainly for making very fine seams. It is so
named because of its use in lingerie. To make the seam,
take the right sides of the fabric facing; pin, tack and
then stitch along the seam line. Then press as stitched.
Finish the seam edges with pinking scissors and press
both seam allowances to one side. Stitch seam edges on
Fig. 3.19: Double stitch seam
the right side with small stitches of zigzag.
Tucked seam
It is a decorative seam and generally used as a design
feature on a garment. If a tucked seam is used on a
fabric which frays easily, the seam edges should be
finished by oversewing. To make a tucked seam, take
the right side of the fabric facing you, turn under the
seam allowance on one piece of fabric, and then pin
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Practical Exercises
Activity 1
To identify the various seams used on a pair of denim jeans,
pillow covers, shirt, skirt, frock, bloomer and blouse.
Material Required
1. A pair of denim jeans
2. Pillow covers
3. Shirt
4. Skirt
5. Frock
6. Bloomer
7. Blouse
8. Pen
9. Pencil
10. A3-sized chart sheet
11. Eraser
Procedure
1. Place each of the above items in front of you.
2. Begin by observing and identifying the seams used in each
of these. Make a note of your observations.
3. Now take an A3-sized chart sheet and draw out a table.
4. While preparing the chart, remember to refer to the notes
you made earlier.
5. List the names of the items you observed such as frock,
shirt, blouse, etc., on the left side. Now write your
observations on the kind of seams used in each of these on
the right side of the table.
Activity 2
Prepare samples of different seams as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12" x 12")
2. Needle, thread and scissors
3. Pen
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4. Eraser Notes
5. Pencil
6. Practical file
7. Adhesive/glue
8. Markers/coloured pens
9. Sewing machine
10. Bobbin/bobbin case
Procedure
1. Prepare samples of different seams.
2. Finish the edges of the samples.
3. Attach them in the practical file and write where they are used.
4. Label them.
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Pinked finish
This is a quick method of finishing done with pinking
shears (a kind of fabric cutting scissors). After stitching,
trim the edges, preferably at a distance of ⅛ inch by
using pinking scissors (also called pinking shears).
This technique is not used on fabrics that ravel badly
(Fig. 3.22).
Fig. 3.22: Pinked finish
Edge stitched finish
This is a neat finish for light to medium-weight, non-
bulky fabrics. In this finish, the seam is stitched and
pressed open. Then turn under ¼ inch on each seam
edge. Stitch close to the fold without catching the
garment (Fig. 3.23). This is a bulky type of finish and
is not suitable for deeply curved seams. This finish is
mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the
Fig. 3.23: Edge stitched finish
seam allowance is wide.
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Activity 2
Prepare samples of edge finishes as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12"X12")
2. Needle and thread
3. A3-sized chart sheet
4. Adhesive/glue
5. Pen
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Notes 6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Markers
9. Coloured pens
10. Pinking scissors
11. Sewing machine
12. Bobbin/bobbin case
Procedure
1. Prepare samples of edge finishes.
2. Paste them on a chart sheet.
3. Label them.
4. Place the chart in the classroom or practical lab.
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