Jake the Dog

Amigurumi Pattern

Materials:
Approx 40g yellow yarn, double knitting weight.
Small amount white yarn, double knitting weight.
Small amount black yarn, double knitting weight.
Stuffing.
Tapestry needle.
3.5mm and 4mm hooks (US E and F hooks).

Finished size: approximately 7” tall

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Note on yarn:
Double knitting (DK) yarn is standard in the UK, but in other parts
of the world, such as the US, worsted weight is more commonly
used. Worsted weight is a little thicker than DK but can easily be
substituted and the pattern will still be in proportion, though you
may need to use a little more. Use the same weight of yarn
throughout, and because of variations between different brands,
you may find it best to stick to the same brand of yarn.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
st = stitch or stitches
ss = slip stitch
sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK)
dc = double crochet (US), treble crochet (UK)
pop = popcorn stitch (see special stitch instructions)
tog = together
sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together
FO = fasten off
YOH = Yarn over hook
FLO = front loop only
BLO = back loop only

Special stitch instructions for fingers:

3 dc pop: popcorn stitch. Work 3 dc into one st, remove hook from
working loop, push through both loops of first dc and pull working
loop through.

Other instructions:
Jake is made in rounds, using a 3.5mm (E) hook unless otherwise
instructed. Do not join rounds unless told to, use a stitch marker to
mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn
placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a
round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work
6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well
you can use that to pull the hole tight.

Work through both loops of stitches unless otherwise indicated.

When working sc2tog you may wish to use the invisible decrease
method. This is a bit more fiddly than the normal way of working
two sc together, but it does give a very neat finish. To do the
invisible decrease push the hook through the front loop of the first
stitch, then through the front loop of the second stitch. YOH and
pull through the two front loops. YOH and pull through the two
loops on the hook.

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This pattern has been designed to be made by crocheting with the
right side out. While there's nothing bad about crocheting wrong
side out, some elements of the pattern may not work, or look
strange (such as the fingers). If you use the invisible decrease, this
will not work with the wrong side out.

The following photos show what working in the round looks like:

Right side out Wrong side out

Jake can stretch to pretty much any size or shape he wants, but
even in his everyday shape he often has extra long arms.

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Body:
Using yellow yarn:
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st.
Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st.
Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st.
Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st.
Round 7: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 42 st.
Round 8: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st] 6 times - 48 st.
Round 9 - 39: (31 rounds) Sc in each st around - 48 st.
Start to stuff.
Round 40: [Sc2tog, sc in next 6 st] 6 times - 42 st.
Round 41: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 6 times - 36 st.
Round 42: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 6 times – 30 st.
Round 43: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 6 times – 24 st.
Round 44: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times – 18 st.
Round 45: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times – 12 st.
Round 46: [Sc2tog] 6 times – 6 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Finish stuffing firmly then sew up hole at bottom.

Eyes (make 2 in each colour):

Using black yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st.
Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Sew to the face, with the top of the eyes roughly level with the top
of round 11.

Using white yarn.

Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.
Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 2 times - 14 st (part
round).
Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn.
Sew on top of the black parts of the eyes.

Now embroider the mouth, roughly level with round 20. You may
wish to make the nose first and position it to see where you want
the mouth to be. To embroider the mouth, use some black yarn - I
sew a line which I shape into a smile. I then go over the line
vertically lots of times, going through the yarn of the face just a
little each time (a bit like an overcast stitch). Secure the end of the
yarn and cut.

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Jake with eyes attached and mouth embroidered, and side view to
show positioning of ears and arms .

Nose:
Using yellow yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 10 st.
Round 3 - 6: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 7 - 9: (3 rounds) (FLO sc in next 5 st), sc in next 5 st - 10
st.
Round 10 - 14: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 15 - 17: (3 rounds) Sc in next 3 st, (FLO sc in next 5 st),
sc in next 2 st - 10 st.
Round 18 - 22: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 23: [Sc2tog] 5 times – 5 st.
FO, leaving a length of yarn. Stuff lightly and sew up hole at end.
Pin in a curve on the face, slightly overlapping the eyes, and sew in
place.

Using black yarn.

Ch 2, work the following stitches into 1st ch: [sc, hdc, sc] 2 times.
Join to first sc with a ss. FO, leaving a length of yarn. Sew to middle
of yellow part of nose.

Ears (make 2):

Using yellow yarn.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 10 st.
Round 3 - 6: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn.

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Flatten and sew the edges of the top of the ears together, then sew
to the sides of the head. The top of the ears should be roughly level
with the top of round 12.

Arms (make 2):

Using yellow yarn. See visual guide on page 9 for help in making
fingers.
Ch 8 (fairly loosely, maybe use a 4mm hook just for the chain),
miss ch next to hook, sc in next ch then work [3dc pop in next ch,
sc in next ch] 3 times.
Round 1: (Place stitch marker before you do first sc) Sc into the
back of each ch (7 st), then sc into the top of each popcorn st and
sc (7 st) - 14 st.
Round 2 - 3: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around – 14 st.
Round 4: [Sc2tog, sc in next 5 st] 2 times – 12 st.
Round 5: Sc in each st around – 12 st.
Round 6: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 2 times – 10 st.
Round 7 - 29: (23 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.
Round 30: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 2 times – 8 st.
Ss into next st and FO, leaving a length of yarn. Stuff well then
flatten and sew the edges of the top of each arm together. Sew to
the sides of the body.

Legs (make 2):

Using yellow yarn, leave a length of yarn when you start.
Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st.
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 10 st.
Round 3 - 6: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around - 10 st.

The next 3 rounds will give a curve to the foot to make the ankle.
Work the slip stitches loosely, or you will find it difficult to get your
hook into them on the next round.

Round 7 - 9: (3 rounds) ss in next 5 st, sc in next 5 st - 10 st.

Round 10 - 23: (14 rounds) Sc in each st around – 10 st.

After about 5 rounds stuff the foot and use the length of yarn from
the start to sew the inside of the curve and make the ankle more
defined (see page 11 for more details on how to do this).

Round 24: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 2 times – 8 st.

Ss in next st, FO and weave in end of yarn.

Stuff the legs, then flatten and sew the edges of the top of each leg
together. Sew to body as shown below.

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Tail:
Using yellow yarn and a 4mm hook (see below for a visual guide to
making the cord used for the tail).
Ch 7, miss ch next to hook and ss in next 6 ch. Ch 1, turn.
Sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn.
Ss between back loop of each sc and the loops formed along the
bottom to join edges together. FO, leaving length of yarn.
Run yarn through tail to the other end, then sew to the body and
weave in any loose ends.

Method for making the cord for the tail:

A chain is made up of sideways 'v' shapes with a bump underneath

each one.

When working into the chain push your hook through so that the
bottom part of the 'v' is under the hook, and the top part of the 'v'
and the back bump are above the hook.

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One row of ss.

Next row of sc.

Put hook through back loop of sc and the opposite loop that has
formed at the bottom (on the left hand side in this picture). Yarn
over and pull through the two loops and the loop on the hook, to
make a slip stitch. Continue down to join the edges together and
make the cord.

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The cord seen from either side.

Visual guide to making fingers

Note: Work into the chain as shown above in the method for making
the cord.

Working the second sc into the chain after the first 4 dc pop.

After working the 3 popcorn stitches and single crochets into the
chain.

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Working into the back of the chain for the first half of round 1.
When you work into the back of the chain you will push the hook
through so that the bottom part of the original 'v' shape is above
the hook and the popcorn stitches and single crochets you have
worked are below the hook.

Halfway through round 1.

Round 1 completed.

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Defining the ankle

The section worked in slip stitch gives the ankle some definition, but
not enough and it doesn't look very neat.

Take the length of yarn through to the bottom right of the slip stitch
section (looking at the foot the right way up).

Then sew through the top right and tighten. Continue sewing
through the top and bottom to the left side of the slip stitch section.

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This will make the foot sit at more of a right-angle to the leg.

View of the completed foot from the front.

Pattern copyright Lucy Collin 2012. All rights reserved. Do not copy
or share this pattern. If you sell products made from this pattern,
please credit Lucy Collin/LucyRavenscar as the designer.

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