Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh

CHIKANKARI OF UTTAR PRADESH
• Uttar Pradesh is famous for its

finely woven Brocades metal
work and the delicate chikan
work also called white work.
• Chikankari a kind of white work
was developing during this time.
• This embroidery is done with
white thread on white muslin
background.
• It is famous as white
embroidery.
HISTORY OF CHIKANKARI:-
• The word chikan is a derivative from a Persian word ‘chikankari’
meaning drapery.
• Therefore chikankari means embroidered drapery.
• Mughal emperor Jahangir’s queen brought this art to India.
• Her embroidery were inspired by Turkish styles.
• Royal members and nawabs of Lucknow worn heavily
embroidered chikan kurtas .
• Designs and motifs are taken from Mughal architecture like the
walls of Taj-mahal and many other monuments.
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Technique used for chikankari:-
• White muslin background done in fine cotton material like, voile,
2x2, chambray, mulmul, organdie, chiffon, georgette nets and
other sheer fabrics.
• Traditionally, white threads were used on semi- transparent
muslin cloth.
• Now-a-days, chikan embroidery is also done with coloured and
silk threads, sequin work is done along with chikankari to give it
an exquisite glittering look.
• In chikankari some stitches are worked from wrong side of the
fabric, while others are worked from the right side.
STITCHES USED:-
• Around 40 stitches were used of which 30 stitches are still used.
3 categories of these stitches:-

• Flat stitches, raised or embossed stitch and open stitch of jali
work.
• These stitches have interesting and descriptive name.
• Main flat stitches.
STITCHES USED:-
• Herringbone stitch=
done on the wrong side
of the fabric.
• Double back stitch
• Running stitch
• Couched running stitch
• Stem stitch
• Buttonhole stitch
• Satin stitch
• Chain stitch
• Detached chain stitch ( Lazy
daisy stitch )
• Fish bone stitch
• Pulled thread work or Jaali
work
• Romanian Stitch
• Phanda stitch
• Murri
• Detached eyelet stitch
Bakhia-
• Known as shadow
work.
• Herringbone stitch
is used to create
shadow.
• This is worked
from the wrong
side of the cloth,
which give
shadow effect
from right side.
There are two types of
Bakhia:-
1. Ulta Bakhia-
Cross stitch, feather stitch
and herringbone stitches
made under the cloth
which give effect of light
and shade.
2. Sindhi Bakhia –
Satin stitch used with
cross thread and it is work
from right-side of the
fabric. This is filling stitch.
Taipchi-
• Simplest and
quickest
stitch.
• Long running
or darning
stitch= six
strands on
the right
side.
Pechni-
• Variation of
stitches is used
in taipchi it is
called penchni-
taipchi is
covered by
twisting a
thread over it
to create spring
or coil effect.
Pashni-
• Worked for
outlining a
motif.
• Covered with
fine minute
vertical satin
stitches.
• This stitches is
also used in
Badla work.
Khatao-
• It is a cut
and patch
work
Gilti-
•A
combination
of
buttonhole
and satin
stitch to
make wheel
like shape
Jangira –
• It is chain stitch
used as an
outline in
combination
with a line of
pechni or thick
taipchi.
The raised,
embossed
stitches include
the following:-
1. Murri-
Minute satin
stitch which
appears as a
knot. It is the
centre of flowers
giving an
embossed effect.
2. Phanda-
Smaller and
shortened
from of
murri. It is
very difficult
stitch
because it is
very small.
3. Applique
or cut work-
Raised stitch
in which
embroidered
motif is cut
and stitched
from side or
right side.
MOTIFS USED:-
• Motif mostly used flowers, foliages, creepers, flowering
streams, fruits like mango, almond, birds like peacock and
parrot.
• Motifs are picked from nature ghaspatti, belbuti paisley
etc.
• Articles made sari borders, pallu and butties on the body
of the sari, blouse , kurta, cuffs, collar, zabas,
handkerchief, capes, tables cloth, mates, cushions,
curtains, other household linen.
ZARDOZI:-
• Embroidery is
done with
metallic thread
is called
‘Kalabattu’ and
forms the zari .
• Lucknow and
Varanasi are
main center in
Uttar Pradesh.
Kamdani-
• Kamdani is a lighter
needle work.
• Ordinary thread is
used, a wire is pressed
down with overlapping
stitches producing a
satin stitches effect.
• Golden and silver
threads spring and
beads are used in
hazara butt motif.
Mina work – it is like a enamel work.
Salma or sitra work

Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh

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Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh

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CHIKANKARI OF UTTAR PRADESH

• Uttar Pradesh is famous for its

• Around 40 stitches were used of which 30 stitches are still used.

3 categories of these stitches:-

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