Monks and Magics - Revisiting A Classic Study of Reliius Cerimony in Thailand PDF
Monks and Magics - Revisiting A Classic Study of Reliius Cerimony in Thailand PDF
First published in 1975, B.J. Terwiel’s Monks and Magic remains MONKS
TE RW I E L M O N K S A N D M AG I C
a widely cited text. This is an absorbing study of Buddhism as
practised at that time in a community in rural Central Thailand. It
AND
describes how esoteric spells and magical diagrams were the main
interest of children and adolescents but full ritual knowledge was
obtained in adulthood and tempered by life experiences. As death
MAGIC
approaches, the Buddhist world-view stimulates merit-making.
R ev i sit ing a Classic St u d y
This fourth edition of the work is a major revision that updates o f R elig iou s Ceremo nies in Thai land
the original text, adds new material and offers a contemporary per-
spective on the original study.
‘This book deserves a welcome from both sides of academic life,
teaching and research. Teachers of subjects dealing with Thai
language and culture will welcome a clear account of the religious
preoccupations … of country people in the central region. The
author has come to treat what is normal and respectable there …
The hope is thereby to emphasize the main thesis, viz. that there is
such a thing as ‘animistic Buddhism’ and that it is common in rural
areas.’ – P.J. Bee, Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies
Barend Jan (Baas) Terwiel is a renowned specialist in the social and
cultural history of Thailand. During his academic career he taught
in Canberra, Munich, Leiden and Hamburg. His final appointment
was as Professor of Thai and Lao Languages and Literatures in
Hamburg. Professor Terwiel retired in 2006 but still writes exten-
sively on Thailand.
Cover illustration from a Phra Malai manuscript, created in Wat Phrao, dated B.E. 2463
(1920).
Scholarly works on Asia have been published via the Nordic Institute of Asian
Studies for more than 40 years, the number of titles published exceeding 300
in total. Since 2002, this work has been continued by NIAS Press. All of those
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again be available (and this time to a global readership).
As part of this process, NIAS Press has launched a new NIAS Classics book
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reproduced (sometimes unchanged) but also supplementary material will be
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MAGIC
Revisiting a Classic Study
of Religious Ceremonies in Thailand
Illustrations vi
Preface viii
Acknowledgements xii
A Note on Transliteration xiii
1. Two Orientations in the Practice of Buddhism 1
2. The Setting and the Fieldwork 21
3. Children and Religion 41
4. Adolescents, Amulets and Tattooing 66
5. The First Period in the Sangha 92
6. Leaving the Order, Courtship and Marriage 131
7. Building a House 153
8. The Precepts and Ritual 178
9. The Pursuit of Beneficial Karma 206
10. Old Age, Death, and the Hereafter 238
11. Conclusions 261
Postscript 269
Glossary of Thai, Pali and Sanskrit Words 283
Bibliography 291
Index 303
Tables
1. Two fundamentally different religious approaches within the
Buddhist population 5
2. Tests administered to the researcher before and after the main
period of fieldwork 40
3. The range of magical powers 89
4. Thai monks, monasteries and population 93
5. Men of Wat Sanchao and their ordination up to 1968 94
6. Names and domains of the nine different Phums 167
7. Number of people receiving the eight precepts in Wat Sanchao
from 11 May 1968 until 28 October 1968 195
8. The major annual ceremonies in the monastery 215
9. The role of merit in the life cycle of the adult farmer 266
vii
P r e fa c e to t h e First E d iti o n
The preparation for the research of which this book is a result began in 1964,
when Dr Robert van Gulik lent a textbook and gramophone records for the
study of the Thai language1 to a group of undergraduate students at the
University of Utrecht. For more than two years these students held regular
meetings during which they covered the greater part of the course. Most of them
persevered with the study of this language because a plan had been developed
to form an anthropological ‘expedition’ to a small community in Thailand. It
was intended to set forth in 1967 and, once in the field, each member would
gather data almost independently from other members of the group. In order to
prevent duplication of work, and to spread the scope of the research as wide as
possible, each member had to choose a certain topic within the anthropological
discipline upon which to base fieldwork. One decided to concentrate upon
decision-making and authority (the ‘power structure’ as it was then called),
one would look closely at land tenure, another would deal specifically with
problems related to kinship and genealogy, whilst the author of this study would
focus his attention upon the religious aspects of social life. Since these plans
were conceived while the students involved had only recently commenced their
academic studies, it was possible for some of them to map out several courses
which would prepare them for the planned fieldwork. The author was thus able
to incorporate the reading of Sanskrit and Pali texts and the history of Buddhism
in the programme of the doctoraal examination in cultural anthropology.
The conditions attached to the allotment of funds for this joint fieldwork
proved too demanding, and the plan for the ‘expedition’ was abandoned in
1966. However, the preparatory work of several years proved fruitful in at least
one instance when, in December 1967, the Australian National University
admitted the author as a research scholar.
Before taking up the scholarship, it was possible to travel extensively in
central and northern Thailand. The main object of this journey was to select
a community where the circumstances seemed favourable for anthropological
1 Mary R. Haas and Heng R. Subhanka, Spoken Thai, Holt Spoken Language Series, 1945.
viii
Within two years the first edition of Monks and Magic was sold out and the
Scandinavian Institute of Asian Studies began considering a second edition. I
used this opportunity to rewrite certain sections, to bring the text up to date
and to make the text more accessible by providing an index.
Twenty-five years have passed since the fieldwork upon which Monks and Magic
was based took place. During this quarter century central Thailand has been
transformed and I studied and experienced many of the multifarious changes.
Probably the scope and pace of change was greater in Wat Sanchao (the
community where fieldwork was conducted) than in surrounding areas, for in
1967 the people of Wat Sanchao, through a series of circumstances beyond their
control, were isolated from the nearby provincial capital. Since then, the area
has become almost like an outer suburb of the town of Ratchaburi.
The decision to reprint this book is, however, not because my notes and
photographs have acquired antiquarian value. There has been a steady demand
for this work. In 1986 a third edition, updated and newly illustrated had been
ix
prepared when unfortunately the business handling the version went bankrupt
and I was unable to trace the whereabouts of the new map, the photos and
the relevant computer tapes. The motivation to start the work of revision
once more stems from the fact that in 1991 and 1992 I taught anthropology,
with special relevance to mainland Southeast Asia at the Ludwig-Maximilians
University of Munich. During lecture preparation and seminar discussions I
had to consult Monks and Magic and found to my surprise that this work is still
relevant, particularly when updated.
When I was asked by Gerald Jackson, the editor in chief of NIAS Press, whether
I would be willing to cooperate with a new edition of Monks and Magic, at first
I was somewhat sceptical. After all (as mentioned in the preface to the third
edition) once before I had helped prepare a reissue, a work that never came to
fruition. Moreover, twice I had given permission to have the work translated,
once in the French language and once in Thai, and these translations had
also not eventuated. However, while discussing the matter in more detail
with Gerald during the recent EUROSEAS conference in Göteborg, the plan
seemed realistic and I agreed to assist with the rebirth of the book that now
has been out of print for many years. I had already had the impression that this
work, begun more than forty years ago, still retains relevance, for it has been
extensively cited and occasionally large segments were reproduced.2 My main
motivation, however, for agreeing to once more spend much time and energy
on the book is that it provides me with a chance to improve the book.
In the first place, Monks and Magic, being the first book I wrote in English,
showed clearly that at that time I had an even more limited experience of writing
in that language than at present. Over the years, as I gradually acquired a feeling
for expressing my thoughts on paper, I noted that the wording of many sec-
2 Three times substantial parts were reprinted namely in John S. Strong, The Experience
of Buddhism, Sources and Interpretations, (the most recent edition Belmont: Thomson
Higher Education, 2008, pp. 249–53); a shortened version of the book appeared in
the Dutch language as Boeddhisme in de Praktijk, Terreinverkenningen in de Culturele
Antropologie, Assen: Van Gorcum, 1977, and finally a selection out of Monks and Magic
was reprinted under the title: Boeddhisme, in the series Religieuze Levensbeschouwingen,
Part 1C [Tilburg: Vereniging Ons Middelbaar Onderwijs 1989]) Smaller parts were
placed in the Internet, notably paragraphs dealing with tattooing and amulets.
tions did not exactly match that which I had intended to write. Going through
the whole text with a critical eye provided me with a chance to eliminate
grammatical mistakes, to be more precise and to add a few comments. In the
second place, when the first version of this work was written, it was a cut-and-
paste effort with the help of a common typewriter (an instrument now almost
obsolete). At that time it was virtually impossible to combine Latin and Thai
script in the text. It is therefore a pleasure to be able to introduce Thai concepts
and book titles, not only in transcription, but also in Thai script. Thirdly, the
inclusion of illustrations has become so easy with modern computer technol-
ogy that also in that respect the new edition could be enriched.
The preparation of the new edition motivated me also, in November 2010,
to pay another visit to Wat Sanchao, where I met once more with members
of ‘my’ family (about whom more below) and it was a joy to find my former
research assistant still in good health, now the patriarch in his compound. More
than forty years earlier, during the time that I was a Buddhist monk, the rules
of the Sangha made it difficult for me to take photographs. I therefore selected
a young man, Somkhuan Suthichai by name, who was willing to learn to make
photos, not limiting himself to the customary formal posed group pictures, but
concentrating on sequences of ritual acts. At the end of first fieldwork period
I presented him with a camera. Somkhuan then went of his own accord to
major events, first in his own province and later further about, where he took
pictures. The best of them he sold on a free-lance basis to the print media. In
2010 he could look back on a successful career, now attached to two national
newspapers, in the possession of impressive professional equipment.
Returning to my study I compared my most recent set of photographs of
the monastery with those I took in the 1960s, and this inspired me to write the
mini-essay that appears in the epilogue.
xi
xii
In the first two editions Thai words were generally transliterated into roman-
ized spelling with the use of the phonetic system devised by Mary R. Haas,
and which is used in her Thai–English Student’s Dictionary. Only when words
are widely known in a different orthography did I deviate from her phonetic
system. In the following two editions I have used a system that may be de-
scribed as a simplified Library of Congress transcription. In the fourth edition,
all Thai words, when first introduced, are also given in Thai script. Also, in
the glossary, Thai words are first given in transcription and then in Thai. With
references to Thai books and articles, only the title of the work is given in Thai
(followed by an English translation of the title); Thai names are only presented
in transcription.
When Thai words have been derived from Pali or Sanskrit, this is indicated
in the glossary. Whenever Pali formulae are cited, the common Pali spelling is
maintained, although it ought to be kept in mind that this does not correspond
fully with Thai oral usage.
xiii
1 The three periods of fieldwork in Thailand upon which this study is based were a prelimi-
nary survey from October 1967 to November 1967, the main period which lasted from
April 1968 to March 1969 and a period from October 1969 to January 1970. Since then
I have revisited the community on numerous occasions, but never for a prolonged time.
The use of words such as ‘popular Buddhism’ and ‘the mass of the people’ in-
dicates that Anuman Rajadhon is of the opinion that the syncretism between
Buddhism and animism is particularly true for the religion of the unsophisti-
cated people.
Some researchers who obtain their data on religion from the highly edu-
cated sections of the population tend to stress the discrepancy between ‘pure
Buddhism’ and ‘accretions’.4 They are continually aware of the philosophical
content of the teachings of the Buddha, and when observing religion they can
always tell whether a ritual, or an aspect of a ritual conforms to the Buddhist
stratum in religion or must be placed among the magico-animist stratum. An
example of this compartmentalized approach is given by Wales:
The lower one goes in the social scale in Siam, as perhaps in every other
country, the more one finds that superstitions and the belief in the existence
2 Such views are expressed, for example, by John E. de Young, Village Life in Modern
Thailand, 1955, p. 110; Frank N. Trager, ‘Reflections on Buddhism and the Social Order
in Southern Asia’, Burma Research Society Fiftieth Anniversary Publications, Vol. I, 1960,
pp. 533–4; E. Michael Mendelson, ‘The Uses of Religious Scepticism in Modern Burma’,
Diogenes, Vol. 41, 1963, pp. 94–116; Gananath Obeyesekere, ‘The Great Tradition and
the Little in the Perspective of Sinhalese Buddhism’, Journal of Asian Studies, Vol. 22,
1963, p. 140; William J. Klausner, ‘Popular Buddhism in Northeast Thailand’ in Cross
Cultural Understanding, edited by Filmer S. C. Northrop and Helen H. Livingston, 1964,
pp. 89–90; June C. Nash, ‘Living with Nats: An Analysis of Animism in Burman Village
Social Relations’, Anthropological Studies in Theravada Buddhism, 1966, pp. 117–35;
Jasper Ingersoll, ‘The Priest Role in Central Village Thailand’, Anthropological Studies in
Theravada Buddhism, 1966, p. 51; and Michael A. Wright, ‘some Observations on Thai
Animism’, Practical Anthropology, Vol. 15, 1968, p. 1.
3 ‘The Cultures of Thailand’, Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 38, 1951, reprinted in Phya
Anuman Rajadhon, Essays on Thai Folklore, 1968, p. 33.
4 These views appear to underlie statements in works of Sukumar Dutt, Buddhism in East
Asia, 1966, p. 78; Melford E. Spiro, ‘Religion: Problems of Definition and Explanation’,
Anthropological Approaches to the Study of Religion, edited by Michael Banton, 1966, pp.
93–4 and in his Burmese Supernaturalism, 1967; Akin Rabibhadana, The Organization of
Thai Society in the Early Bangkok Period, 1782–1873, 1969, p. 11 and recently also by Jane
Bunnag, Buddhist Monk, Buddhist Layman, 1973, pp. 18–23 and Robert L. Mole, Thai
Values and Behavior Patterns, 1973, Chapter II.
of spirits who require propitiation come to the fore at the expense of the
established religion. So it is that in Siam, despite the teachings of Buddhism,
which especially denounce such beliefs, the spirits of the dead and other in-
numerable varieties of phī, all more or less objectionable, make considerable
demands on the time of the Siamese, at least of the uneducated classes, in
order to keep them at bay.5
When I interviewed villagers in central Thailand on the relationship between
Buddhist and non-Buddhist aspects of their religion, a variety of reactions were
observed. The more sophisticated informants generally stated that the Lord
Buddha had never forbidden rituals of ancient origin. Other persons hesitatingly
made up their minds with regard to the orthodoxy of a ritual, but on subsequent
occasions contradicted their previous judgement. Many were at a loss to classify
rituals or beliefs under rubrics such as ‘Buddhist’ and ‘non-Buddhist’.
It soon appeared that the categories under discussion had little relevance in
their minds. Therefore it was decided to follow the syncretist model during the
analysis of rituals and beliefs of the farmers. This proved a much more fruitful
approach6 and throughout the fieldwork the questions of orthodoxy and the
relationship to textual Buddhism were seldom raised.
The farmers, as well as the educated classes, call themselves Buddhists. It
should be recognized, however, that the two types of Buddhism can be quite
distinct. Some studious people appear to be aware of the philosophical message
of the teachings of Siddhartha Gautama and its implications for those who wish
to follow his path to salvation. Most others who call themselves Buddhist, on
the other hand, have little or no idea of the philosophy of Buddhism. Instead,
the practices and beliefs that are derived from Buddhism appear to have been
reinterpreted in a local religious framework that fits the local worldview.
A distinction between the Buddhism of the highly educated and that of the
relatively untutored has been remarked on by many scholars.7 Usually, how-
ever, this difference is considered to be gradational. Thus, the highly educated
into contact with various types of Indian people from which they adopted
certain symbols. It would be wrong, however, to assume that these symbols
always retained the same meaning that they originally had on the Indian
subcontinent.
The second objection to the view that the Mons of Dvāravatī can be ad-
equately described as Theravada Buddhists is that there is insufficient evidence
to warrant a discussion of the religion of the people as a whole. The archaeologi-
cal and historical evidence with regard to Buddhism comes from the political
centres, where cult buildings and images may have been closely linked with state
ceremonies and the rulers’ religion.
A variation in the type of stone images, such as the Mahayanist ones
mentioned above, need not therefore be related to a group of proselytizing
monks but could, for example, be interpreted as a sign of political upheaval. In
Wales’ opinion the Mon population ‘remained devoted Hīnayānists’, who ‘were
probably never even tempted by the Mahayanism and Hinduism’.16 I doubt
whether the general population of that time was ever motivated by the sectarian
feelings that Wales ascribes to it. Rulers and elite may have weighed religious
objects on a scale of relative orthodoxy or according to a written norm, but the
average subject most likely did not possess the type of information necessary for
such weighting. Whatever the images the rulers decided to present as articles of
worship, they automatically would become symbols of power to the ordinary
man. There is simply no hard evidence to construct a picture of the religion of
the farming community, but this gap in our knowledge should not cause us to
leave that part of the population out of the imagined past.
From the eleventh until the thirteenth century the Khmers dominated
the political scene in most of the region now known as Thailand. Vassalage
to Angkor had a profound influence upon the religious art and architecture.
Many statues that date from this period can be related to Mahayana and Hindu
mythology.17 It is generally accepted that Buddhism remained the predominant
religion. Coedès words it as follows:
Although it is clear from the Khmer inscriptions of Lop Buri that, during
the eleventh century at least, Hinduism was practised there as well as
Buddhism, the predominance of Buddhist temples and statues both at Lop
Buri and in other western provinces of ancient Cambodia shows that, even
16 Ibid. p. 80.
17 See for example Silpa Bhirasri, Thai Buddhist Art, Thai Culture, N.S. 1970, pp. 3–5, Guide
to the National Museum, Bangkok, 1970 and M. C. Subhadradis Diskul, Art in Thailand,
A Brief History, 1972, pp. 9–10 and 38–42.
During the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and possibly even a little
earlier, Tai19 speaking tribes had been settling in the valleys of what is now
northern Thailand. This was part of a series of Tai conquests involving also
parts of the regions now known as northern Laos, northern Burma and eastern
Assam. The Tai invasions seem to have been triggered by a large-scale armed
conflict between the Tais and the imperial Chinese armies during the middle
of the eleventh century, which ended in a devastating Tai defeat.20
Many scholars have tried to trace the Tai-speaking tribes back much further,
usually by equating Tais with one or more of the southern tribes in the Chinese
annals.21 Much of this research remains speculative and the question of the
origin of the Tai speakers has not yet been resolved in a satisfactory manner.22
One of the persistent myths regarding the early history of the Tais is their
involvement with the kingdom of Nanchao, which had its centre around
Lake Tali in Yunnan. Probably it was Terrien de Lacouperie who originally
proposed this when he remarked that the Shans formed the leading family in
the Nanchao agglomeration.23 Early in the twentieth century this idea found its
way into virtually all history books and it has been presented as proven fact. At
18 Georges Coedès, The Making of South East Asia, 1966, p. 122.
19 Tai refers to the wider language family, whilst the term Thai has been reserved for matters
relating to Thailand.
20 J. G. Barlow, ‘The Zhuang Minority Peoples of the Sino-Vietnamese Frontier in the
Song Period’, Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, Vol. 18, No. 2, Sept 1987, pp. 250–69;
see also James R. Chamberlain, ‘A New Look at the History and Classification of the Tai
Languages’, in Studies in Thai Linguistics in Honor of William J. Gedney, Jimmy G. Harris
and James R. Chamberlain (eds.), 1975, pp. 49–66.
21 Some Thai views on the origin of the Tais can be found in Prince Damrong Rājānubhāb,
‘History of Siam in the Period Antecedent to the Founding of Ayudhya by King Phra
Chao U Thong’, Selected Articles from the Siam Society Journal, Vol. III, 1959, p. 37; Likhid
Hoontrakul, The Historical Records of the Siamese-Chinese Relations, 1953; and Kachorn
Sukhabanij, ‘ถ่ินกำ�เนิดและแนวอพยพฃองเผ่าไทย’ [The Origin and Migration of the Thai], In
Memoriam Phya Anuman Rajadhon, Tej Bunnag and Michael Smithies (eds.), 1970, pp.
111–28.
22 For an overview of many opinions, see B. J. Terwiel, ‘The Origin of the T’ai Peoples
reconsidered’, Oriens Extremus, Vol. 25, Pt. 2, 1978, pp. 239–58: an elaborate update of
this article appeared in Thai, ‘การค้นหาแหล่งกำ�เนิดฃองซาติไทย’ [Reconsidering the Origin of
the Thais], in B. J. Terwiel, Anthony Diller and Chonthira Sattayawathana, คนไท(เดิม)ไม่ได้
อยู่ที่นี่, [The original Thais did not live here] Bangkok: Muang Boran, B.E. 2533 (1990),
pp. 8–78.
23 A. E. J. B. Terrien de Lacouperie, ‘The Cradle of the Shan Race’, in A. R. Colquhoun,
Amongst The Shans, 1885, p. xxix.
present, however, most historians agree that Nanchao had little to do with Tai
tribes.24
The spread of the Tai over a vast area of mainland Southeast Asia has often
been described as a gradual merging with local cultures. Coedès describes the
process as an infiltration of immigrants. Supposedly over a period of time they
took positions of command, settled amongst the sedentary agriculturalists
already present and assimilated their culture.25 It may well be argued, however,
that the Tai expansion represents a journey of conquest. From local histories
such as the Ahom Buranji,26 it may be inferred that the Tais established with
overwhelming might. Especially during the troubled times of the twelfth and
thirteenth centuries, when the older mainland Southeast Asian kingdoms were
unable to protect their outer regions, the Tai expansion went unchecked.
In what is now called northern Thailand, not far from the present town
of Chiang Mai, the capital of a Mon territory could be found from the eighth
century until the late thirteenth century, when Tai speakers took over. This
territory, which was known as Haripuñjaya and whose capital was Lamphun,
is best known to us from local chronicles27 and a series of stone inscriptions28
The languages in these inscriptions are Pali and Mon. The use of Pali, the fact
that all these inscriptions refer to religious donations and also the context show
a clear predominance of Theravada Buddhism, at least amongst the ruling elite.
From the end of the thirteenth century onwards, inscriptions appear
in Pali and Thai. A powerful Thai dynasty was set up in Sukhothai from
approximately 1250 onwards. The pre-eminence of Theravada Buddhism in
24 Wilhelm Credner, Cultural and Geographical Observations Made in the Tali (Yunnan)
Region with special Regard to the Nan-chao Problem, translated from the German by E.
Seidenfaden, 1935, as quoted by F. M. Lebar (et al.), Ethnic Groups of Mainland Southeast
Asia, 1964, p. 187; G. Luce, ‘The Early Siam in Burma’s History, Journal of the Siam
Society, Vol. 46, 1958, p. 141; M. Blackmore, ‘The Ethnological Problems Connected
with Nanchao’, Symposium on Historical, Archaeological and Linguistic Studies, 1967, pp.
59–69; Li Fang-kuei’s remarks, as reported in Barry M. Broman, Early Political Institutions
of the Thai: Synthesis and Symbiosis, 1968, p. 23; and F. W. Mote, ‘Problems of Thai
Prehistory’, Social Science Review, Vol. II, 1964.
25 Coedès, The Making of South East Asia, p. 102.
26 Golap Chandra Barua (transl. and ed.), Ahom Buranji (with parallel English translation)
from the Earliest Time to the End of Ahom Rule, 1930.
27 Translated in Georges Coedès, ‘Documents sur 1’histoire politique et religieuse du Laos
Occidental’, Bulletin de l’École Française d’Extrême-Orient, Vol. 25, 1925, pp. 1–202 and
Camille Notton, Annales du Siam, Vol. II, pp. 1–68.
28 R. Halliday, ‘Les inscriptions môn du Siam’, Bulletin de L’École Française d’Extrême-Orient,
Vol. 30, 1930, pp. 86–105, and A.B. Griswold and Prasert ṇa Nagara, ‘An Inscription in
Old Mon from Wieng Manó in Chieng Mai Province’, Epigraphic and Historical Studies,
No. 6, Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 59 (1), 1971, pp. 153–6.
Though common farmers are mentioned in other places of the inscription, they are
not included in the enumeration of people adhering to the faith. This omission can-
not be regarded as proof of different orientations toward religion within the popula-
tion, but it certainly indicates that Buddhism occupied the role of court religion.
Further references in Ram Khamhaeng’s inscription show not only that
Buddhism was not merely a theory or a philosophy, but that ceremonies were
held every year to mark the end of the annual retreat, much in the manner that
can be witnessed in present-day Thailand:
At the close of the rainy season they celebrate the Kaṭhina ceremonies,
which last a month, with heaps of cowries, with heaps of areca nuts, with
heaps of flowers, with cushions and pillows: the gifts they present [to the
monks] as accessories to the Kaṭhina [amount to] two million each year.
Everyone goes to the Araññika over there for the recitation of the Kaṭhina.
When they are ready to return to the city they walk together, forming a line
all the way from the Araññika to the parade-ground.32
How well established Buddhism was can be deduced from other references in
the text that mention different types of monasteries, three classes of monks
and many statues of the Buddha.
29 Since writing this there has been a debate on the authenticity of this inscription. For
those who are in doubt whether the inscription is genuine, see Barend Jan Terwiel, The
Ram Khamhaeng Inscription: The Fake that did not Come True, 2010.
30 A. B. Griswold and Prasert ṇa Nagara, ‘The Inscription of King Rāma Gaṃhèṅ of
Sukhodaya’, Epigraphic and Historical Studies, No. 9, Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 59
(2), 1971, pp. 179–228.
31 Ibid. p. 209.
32 Ibid. pp. 209–10.
10
33 Ibid. p. 214.
34 Dutt, Buddhism in East Asia, 1966, p. 78. Wales also interprets this as a sign that animism
vied for first place with Buddhism (H. G. Quaritch Wales, Early Burma – Old Siam, 1973,
p. 110).
11
35 For the information on this episode I am mainly relying on the recent study by A. B.
Griswold and Prasert ṇa Nagara, ‘King Lödaiya of Sukhodaya and his Contemporaries’,
Epigraphic and Historical Studies, No. 10, Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 60 (1), 1972,
pp. 21–152.
36 Ibid. pp. 80–134.
12
37 A. B. Griswold and Prasert ṇa Nagara, ‘King Lödaiya of Sukhodaya and His Contemporaries’,
p. 64.
13
Prasert ṇa Nagara believe that this failure did happen.38 It would have been
an excruciatingly awkward moment for the king, for the failure would throw
doubt on his suitability as guardian of the realm. If true, the episode could
help explain the ineffectiveness of his reign. The detailed account of wondrous
events surrounding the installation of other relics in Sukhothai later in his reign
may have been inspired to counteract the negative impact of the relic’s failure
to perform. If this account was not based on a disappointing lack of a miracle,
it could be an indirect judgement on Lö Thai’s ineffectiveness.
An interesting document that may be seen as a measure of the independ-
ent development of Thai Buddhism is the Traiphūmikhāthā (Sermon on the
Three Worlds), first written in the middle of the fourteenth century by Phaya
Lü Thai, heir-apparent to the throne of Sukhothai.39 Using more than thirty
sources of the classical Buddhist literature, Lü Thai boldly created a new lo-
cal cosmology. Upon ascending the throne Lü Thai took the title of Great
Dhamma King (Mahādhammarāja) and, in a vow reminiscent of Mahayana
Buddhism, promised to work for the salvation of all beings.40
An intimate relationship between statecraft and religion is also apparent in
the history of Ayutthaya. This city was a rival of Sukhothai probably already
before the middle of the fourteenth century.41 Because of its strategic position
Ayutthaya gradually grew to be one of the most important cities in Southeast
Asia. Because of its proximity to Angkor, Khmer influences were strong in
Ayuttaya. After the Thais of Ayutthaya captured and looted Angkor in 1431–2
the Khmer influence must have increased, because when King Trailok (whose
long reign fell in the second half of the fifteenth century) reorganized the
administration of his realm he used an Angkorian model. Khmer inspiration
can be found in the art and architecture and language development, and also in
the court religion. Much of the customs and rituals that later came to be called
court Brahmanism probably date back to Trailok’s time.42
38 Ibid., p. 69.
39 There are good translations of this text in European languages: in French by Georges
Coedès and Charles Archaimbault, Les trois mondes (Traibhūmi Brah Ruaṅ), 1973, and
in English by Frank E. Reynolds and Mani B. Reynolds, Three Worlds according to King
Ruang, 1982.
40 See Barbara Watson Andaya, ‘Statecraft in the Reign of Lü Thai of Sukhodaya (ca.
1347–1374)’, in Bardwell L. Smith ed., Religion and Legitimation of Power in Thailand,
Laos and Burma, 1978, pp. 2–19.
41 For arguments that Ayutthaya was founded prior to 1351, see B. J. Terwiel, Thailand’s
Political History: From the 13th Century to Recent Times, 2011, pp. 13–4.
42 See for example, H. G. Quaritch Wales, Siamese State Ceremonies, 1931, and his Ancient
Siamese Government and Administration, 1934.
14
15
At first sight, this view fits in with the model proposed in this book. However,
developing this theme further Le May pictures a fully compartmentalized rural
religion. According to le May Buddhism is used by the villager for purely other-
worldly reasons, whilst animism is needed to cope with everyday life:
Their lives fall into two parts. They pay their devotion and give their offer-
ings to the Lord Buddha, so that their merit may increase and their Karma
may enrich them in future lives, but in the present life there are a host of
‘p’i’, or spirits, to be propitiated if evil is not to befall them, and the latter are,
therefore, continually courted and feasted to this end.46
16
solely for other-worldly ends. Instead, I have come to believe that the peasants
gradually adopted Buddhism as part of their religious system, but in a manner
quite distinct from that of the urban elite. The peasant accepted Buddhism
not primarily because he became convinced of the truth of the Pali canon, but
rather because it could be grafted upon ideas he held previously.
In the urban centres the preponderant themes of the leading monasteries
may well have been directed to stimulate a devout acceptance of the Buddhist
moral code. Salvation from the eternal cycle of lives by a strict following of
the path outlined by Siddhartha Gautama could have motivated the sophis-
ticated city monks. In the countryside, however, Buddhism appears to have
been incorporated in the pre- existing animistic, manipulative, magic-oriented
religion. When Buddhism spread to the Thai farmers in the first centuries of
the second millennium they fed, housed, sponsored and themselves became
Buddhist monks, not because they wished to escape rebirth, but primarily to
acquire magical power. The ritual code of behaviour of the Sangha was con-
sidered efficacious in bringing about increased chances of prosperity and Pali
texts were used as spells to ward off danger and illness.
This hypothesis on the introduction of Buddhism in the rural areas can
be neither substantiated nor contradicted by historical evidence. Rural culture
leaves very few traces, especially in a tropical climate where religious buildings,
images and books are made from plant material. Nevertheless the hypothesis of
a rural restructuring of Buddhism whereby it can justifiably be called animistic
Buddhism is made plausible by reference to the rapid spread of Buddhism, and
to parallels with Tai-speaking tribes outside Thailand, and also by a considera-
tion of the evidence of present-day rural religion.
Firstly, with respect to the spread of Buddhism it can be pointed out that
there are few or no indications of active proselytism. Even when local religious
practices flagrantly contravened basic Buddhist tenets this was not met in a
confrontational manner. The best example of this lies in the gradual suppression
of animal sacrifices. Even after many centuries of Buddhist influence the buffalo
sacrifice was still not fully eradicated.47
Another aspect of the spread of Buddhism lies in the fact that no formal
legalistic threshold has to be crossed before an outsider is allowed to attend
most Buddhist ceremonies, a few rituals reserved for members of Sangha being
47 Note that animal sacrifices were not completely eradicated. The buffalo sacrifice is
reported for Laos and Northern Thailand. See Paul Lévi in Kingdom of Laos (ed. René
de Berval), 1959, p. 162 ff. In central Thailand villagers may buy a pig’s head and trotters
and display them on an altar to propitiate certain spirits.
17
the exception. Any layman can take part without having to repudiate other
beliefs. There is no examination of intentions, no formal conversion ritual,
no initiation ceremony. Instruction in the Buddhist doctrine is not a specific
requirement for the lay devotee who wishes to sponsor the Buddhist monks
and partake in their ceremonies.
Furthermore, in order to understand the spread of Buddhism to the coun-
tryside, it is necessary to notice the method of recruitment of Buddhist monks.
Any villager who fulfilled the traditional stipulated conditions of age, health
and good name belonged to the field from which the Sangha drew its numbers.
On village level, while elaborate preparation may have been common to help
propel a man into his new exalted status, these preparations involved little or no
doctrinal knowledge. From the perspective of the Sangha, as long as a man had
found a proper preceptor, and as long as he actively and accurately participated
in uttering the whole ordination text using the Pali language, there was no cause
to bar him from joining the order as a fully-fledged member. Such village monks
were enfolded in the rules of the Sangha, they learned to chant sacred texts and
thereby became esteemed monks. Whether or not they acquired knowledge of
the Buddhist teaching was a matter of personal choice.
The religious beliefs of the aspirant monk are not brought into question
during the ordination procedure. In rural areas, up to the present day, it is
quite common and widely accepted that a man joins the Sangha for reasons
that appear to be primarily magico-animistic. When a villager finds himself
in mortal danger he can resort to a prayer to the invisible powers in which he
promises to become a monk for a specified number of days, months or even
years, if only he is rescued. If he escapes unscathed, he must fulfil his promise
and find a preceptor. This practice, apparently not in line with the principles
guiding the brotherhood of monks in the written code, has been widely
accepted in the Thai countryside. It is quite likely that the motivation of many
farmers to join the Sangha during the past centuries may have been equally
far removed from orthodox Buddhism. Hence, the representatives of Buddhism
par excellence, the monks, can on the village level adhere to beliefs that need
not conform with orthodox Buddhism.
References to the religions of Tai-speaking tribes of the twentieth century
cannot simply be used as evidence to determine the religion of Tai-speaking
farmers living in the Chao Phraya valley at the time of early Sukhothai and
Ayutthaya. Instead they can provide us with knowledge about the variations
that have developed in the course of time and aid us in placing the Thai farmers
in a broader perspective.
18
This basic magico-animism that characterizes tribal Tai also underlies the
religion of the farmers in lowland Thailand. The Thai farmers use the same
concepts, practise similar ceremonies and use identical paraphernalia during
many rituals. It cannot be accidental that the white Tai in north Vietnam and
the Thais in central Thailand recognize the symbol of a central pole or pillar as
the symbol for a central authority and that both call it by the same name: lak
mueang, a more formal term of the Thais is chaopho lak mueang (เจ้าพ่อหลักเมือง)51
Other such striking similarities will be noted in the course of this study.
48 Frank M. Lebar, Gerald C. Hickey and John K. Musgrave (eds.), Ethnic Groups of
Mainland Southeast Asia, 1964, pp. 187–244.
49 Ethnic Groups of Northern Southeast Asia, Cultural Report Series No. 2, Yale University
Southeast Asia Studies, 1950.
50 Ibid., p. 123.
51 G. Maspero, Un empire colonial français: L’Indochine, Vol. I, 1929, p. 239 and F. M. Lebar
et al., Ethnic Groups of Mainland Southeast Asia, 1964, p. 225.
19
20
T h e S et t i n g a n d t h e F i e l d w o r k
1 In the mini-essay ‘Wat Sanchao revisited’, written as an epilogue to this latest edition, I
have described how I found ‘my’ village in 1967 through a chance encounter five years
earlier.
21
and many houses had been connected with electricity. In a recently erected
roadside cafe I noticed the first television set. By 1977, motorized traffic went
directly past the monastery and the community began to look more and more
under the influence of Ratburi town. In the early 1990s one could safely say
that the monastery lay on the outskirts of the town and the region developed
suburban characteristics. In 2010 the region had almost completely lost all
features that characterized it in the 1960s. The footpaths now were roads, the
monastery was now surrounded with a solid wall, most of its buildings were
now of concrete, and in its direct vicinity some two-story buildings lined the
street. Most rice fields had given way to fruit and vegetable gardens.
The origin of this monastery cannot be determined with certainty. One of
the resident monks, the Venerable Phlik, told that even his grandfather had not
been able to recall the time of its founding. From an analysis of genealogical
charts that were made with the help of some older inhabitants, it appears that
the ancestors of the present population arrived around 1850 to settle on the
riverfront and to open up rice fields, but it is not clear whether they built the
monastery themselves or settled at a site where a monastery had already been
established. According to oral tradition, the original name of the monastery was
Wat Kaewfa, ‘Monastery of the Blue Crystal’, and it was founded by a monk who
had been born in northeast Thailand. Approximately one century ago the name
appears to have been Wat Paknam, ‘Monastery at the River Mouth’. There are
older people who can trace the names and origin of the last nine abbots.
Early in the twentieth century the name of the monastery changed again, this
time to Wat Sanchao, ‘Monastery of the Guardian’s Shrine’. The latest name was
derived from the fact that a shrine was built for a Chinese god on some land
adjacent to the monastery. A Chinese person constructed it after he had won a
big prize in the Huai Kokho lottery. This was a very popular lottery in Thailand
from 1835 until 1916, and the shrine must therefore date from this period.2 The
shrine’s upkeep is in the hands of a Chinese caretaker and its worshippers come
from the Chinese population of Ratburi. The shrine and the monastery represent
different cultures and there is virtually no communication between the two.
Wat Sanchao is situated on a rectangular piece of land of eight rai (ไร่)3 or
1.28 hectares on the south bank of the river Maeklong. Like most Thai rural
monasteries, Wat Sanchao can be considered the community centre of the
2 For further details on this lottery see B. O. Cartwright, ‘The Huey Lottery’, Journal of the
Siam Society, Vol. 18, pp. 221–39.
3 The rai is a Thai square surface measure, equal to 1,600 square metres. Eight rai cor-
responds thus with 1.28 hectares.
22
population that sustains it. A visitor can easily see that great care has been
taken to make a good impression. A row of ornamental trees near the riverbank
is pruned in the shape of candles. Three jetties provide access from the river
and each of them is provided with a small shelter. It is a cool place from where
23
to watch the vessels on the Maeklong, and at lunchtime the schoolchildren can
often find a woman selling fruit or sweets here.
All footpaths are somewhat elevated so that the buildings can easily be
reached on foot even when most of the area is flooded in an exceptionally wet
rainy season. The high footpaths are used during the dry periods of the year
also, because, in accordance to their discipline, monks and novices should
avoid walking on grass lest they inadvertently tread on insects.
The buildings are kept in reasonable repair and are often richly adorned.
The most important structure is the bot (โบสถ์),4 or temple. In olden days,
the rural temple was invariably a wooden building, usually erected on a brick
platform. At the beginning of the previous century the old bot of Wat Sanchao
was derelict and the villagers constructed the present temple in 1932 and 1933.
They made it according to the latest fashion, with thick brick walls plastered
white and a roof covered with glazed tiles. When the present structure has to
be replaced again, probably a more ornate building will be decided upon, with
a concrete base and a multi-tiered roof.5
Among the most essential buildings are two parallel rows of kutì (กุฎิ),6 or
monks’ cells. In Wat Sanchao they are joined by a central meeting hall where
many of the ceremonies involving laymen take place. A second meeting hall is
less often in use. Other structures on the monastery grounds in 1967 were the
bell tower, a pyramidical building called cedi (เจดีย์),7 a cremation platform and
the primary school. Since 1967 much has changed. The bot has a new roof,
two meeting halls have been replaced with a modern building and the open
cremation platform has been supplanted by a crematorium. Along the river
frontage a concrete retaining wall has been built, new kutis have been erected,
and a new school complex completes the virtually total renovation during the
last forty years.
To the east, south and west lie the households of the farmers who regularly
support the monastery with food, services and money. From the monastery,
most houses can be reached on foot as well as via one of the waterways. In 1967
the total number of households called upon by the monks of Wat Sanchao
when they collected food early in the morning was 116. The farmers’ houses
4 From the Pali word posatha, or Sanskrit poṣadha, meaning a Buddhist fasting day.
5 Contrary to my expectations, in 2010 the old bot was still standing, only its roof had been
renewed.
6 From the Pali or Sanskrit word kuṭi, meaning a shelter.
7 Pali cetiya, Sanskrit caitya.
24
lie scattered about on the south bank of the river Maeklong and on both sides
of the river Om, which branches off from the Maeklong at Wat Sanchao.
Map II, which shows the surroundings of Wat Sanchao in the year 1967,
depicts two distinct ecological systems. On the one hand there is the region in
25
8 This trend continued, so that in 2010 such plantations and various vegetable crops
dominated the landscape.
9 Areca catechu. The seeds of the Areca plant are often referred to as betel nut, an unfortu-
nate name since it is not a betel nor, botanically speaking, a nut.
26
which many farmers are firmly linked in thought and deed is usually the near-
est monastery.
Enclosed by the main waterways and their fringes of gardens and houses are
the regions used for agriculture. Generations of farmers have cleared the soil
of almost all flora and have constructed rectangular fields, which are separated
from each other by small dykes that also serve as a footpath and along which at
irregular intervals a few sugar palms can be found. Each year at the beginning
of the rainy season, during the months of May, June and July young rice-plants
are transplanted in the best fields and rice seed is distributed over the less
favourable plots, and in November, December and January, during the cool
season, the crop is harvested.
The extent of land-holding varies considerably from farmer to farmer. In the
region surrounding Wat Sanchao, a man possessing a hundred rai is considered
a big landowner, while a farmer with five rai to his name is regarded as very
poor. Many farmers possess between 30 and 40 rai. A field is not necessarily
cultivated by its owner; big landowners and old people without children often
rent their land to farmers with small holdings. In 1968 a rai of fields could be
rented under the condition that the owner received a certain part of the yield of
those fields. The customary fee was 10 thang (ถัง),10 or 200 litres of rice per rai,
regardless of the total yield, but in special circumstances a different price could
be agreed upon. Since the harvest of one rai usually yields between 25 and 50
thang of rice, the customary rent amounted to a share of the produce ranging
from 20 to 40 per cent of the total. Another common practice was to draw up a
tenancy agreement according to the baeng ha system, in which the tenant was
allowed to keep three-fifths of the produce of the rented field on condition he
surrendered two-fifths to the owner. By 1978, probably as a long-term result of
irrigation, a new system was in operation, named chao mao, or chao khat tua, in
which a farmer agreed to pay a fixed amount of money to the lessor.
After harvesting and threshing, part of the rice must be reserved for private
consumption and another portion for planting during the subsequent year;
sometimes a certain amount must be used to pay for rent of land or draught
animals,11 but the remainder can be sold to a dealer. The money received for
his surplus of rice usually represents the greatest part of the yearly cash income
of the farmer. Other sources of income during the year come from the sale of
surplus vegetables, fruit and fish in the provincial market and sometimes from
27
12 Phaseolus mungo.
13 This reflects the economic situation of the 1960s and is no longer true. Investment in the
infrastructure (notably road- and bridge-building and electrification) soon resulted in
the establishment of a large clothing manufacturing factory, as well as the development
of market gardens and orchards.
28
14 The problems connected with speedboats of the late 1960s rapidly disappeared when
an efficient road network was established. The bitumen road network has proven more
economical. Passengers and goods have moved to buses and trucks and consequently
peace has once more descended upon the waterways.
29
possible to rent a generator, install electrical wiring, and enjoy modern goods,
such as brilliant lights, record players, amplifiers and loudspeaker boxes. On
festive occasions there was no longer the need to hire a band of musicians, as the
record player can produce more sound and for a longer period. The monastery,
built and maintained by the whole community, reflects the modernizing
aspirations of the surrounding farmers.
excusable to his informants. When such questioning took place, the answers
were often given as a matter of course, in a spontaneous manner.
Finally, the ritual superiority of a full member of the Sangha over all laymen
facilitated the questioning of people who were much older than the researcher
himself. If the researcher had been a layman, the difference in age would have
placed him in a subservient position to some of the most knowledgeable mem-
bers of the community.
The role of a Buddhist monk also brought some disadvantages from the
anthropologist’s point of view. A monk cannot move freely, during the Lenten
season he should obtain permission from his abbot before leaving the precincts
of the monastery, he should avoid mingling with crowds, and he should keep
at a distance from sporting events and military parades. At all times he ought
to be aware of his thoughts and movements and remain aloof from women. His
rules forbid him to participate in gambling, to drink alcoholic beverages, to fish
or to work in the fields. In addition his superior ritual position prevents him
from participating in those kinds of religious activities which involve paying
homage to those non-human powers that are ritually inferior to monks. In
order to overcome the limitations imposed by the monk’s role, the first year of
fieldwork was divided into two parts; the first portion of just over six months
consisted of the time as a member of the Sangha, the second part was a period
of five months during which the researcher remained in the vicinity of Wat
Sanchao as a layman.
During the second part of the main fieldwork period, the participant-
observer technique remained in the foreground. Every occasion to participate
actively in the religious life of the farmers was grasped. Therefore it was decided
not to live in isolation, but to accept an invitation to take up residence with a
farmer’s family,15 whose house was situated about one kilometre distance from
Wat Sanchao. From here it was possible to go out and attend further rituals,
whether a fund-raising ceremony at a neighbouring monastery, the building of
a new house, the celebrating of a marriage, or listening to a famous preacher. In
addition I was allowed to take part in the work on the farm. Especially during
the period of harvesting and threshing rice many days of hard physical work
were spent in the fields.
Much of the information upon which this study is based has thus been
obtained with the help of the participant-observer technique. This technique
15 I am greatly indebted to the family of the late Sangiam Charoenchan. They allowed me to
take part in their private lives and gave real friendship, thus making this period of research
not only immensely interesting but emotionally rewarding as well.
32
has its difficulties and shortcomings. While the researcher is physically actively
engaged in some aspect of social life, for example, while he is helping to pound
rice kernels into a paste, or learning how to weave a basket, and meanwhile
asking questions about some related beliefs and values, it is difficult to record
the information received.
A tape-recorder could only be used in extremely formal circumstances,
such as during a preaching or whilst the monks were chanting sacred texts.
It was virtually impossible to record casual conversation because invariably
the conversation was diverted towards the recorder itself16 and most people
showed marked inhibition to having their ordinary daily language recorded.
Moreover, the researcher felt that continual use of the tape-recorder did not
agree with the role adopted for the duration of the fieldwork. It became there-
fore necessary to type or write notes in an abbreviated form at free moments.
Sometimes it was many hours before these notes could be worked out in detail
and be incorporated in the rest of the data. It is apparent that under these cir-
cumstances no word-for-word record could be made. Relying on his memory,
guided by a few key words jotted down, the researcher could only reconstruct
the gist of the various interesting conversations. Accuracy was sacrificed to a
certain extent in order to obtain volunteered, spontaneous information.
For this reason, a check on accuracy seemed necessary. Near the end of the
main fieldwork period it was therefore decided to employ one member of the
community living around Wat Sanchao, and to read aloud in the Thai language
to this informant all accumulated data. The informant was encouraged to make
critical comments. This check eliminated certain inaccuracies and rectified
some misunderstandings on the part of the author; in addition the notes
themselves proved a most fruitful store of topics of conversation, and some
new data were unearthed. These sessions lasted for one month and this period
represents the only time that a paid informant was used.
33
34
Thus it was noted that the people of Sukhothai in the fourteenth century
worshipped sacred relics. Similar beliefs can probably be established in the
same region six centuries later. However, for a proper understanding of the
importance of relics in Sukhothai times it is necessary to attempt to put together
as much information about fourteenth-century Sukhothai as possible. Factors
such as the size of the population, methods of communication, the system of
slavery, the means of production, religious concepts, the position of the ruler as
guardian of the realm, and the likely political impact of a religious validation of
the ruler through the intervention of miraculously found relics must all be taken
into account.
Consistent with the framework of concepts drawn up so far, the definition
of religion is based upon the concept of religious activity. Religious activities
are hereby defined as those social activities or aspects of social activities that
involve human actors in relation to culturally postulated immaterial non-
human agents.19
The words ‘immaterial non-human agents’ are used in preference to the
more generally accepted ‘supernatural beings’, since the word ‘supernatural’
has connotations such as ‘more than natural’, ‘beyond nature’. While activities
showing the aspect of ‘more than natural’ can sometimes be regarded as religious,
the exclusive use of the term ‘supernatural’ limits religious phenomena too
much. After all, it is likely that there are cultures in which at least some invisible
religious agents are seen as an intrinsic part of nature. Such seems to be the case
in rural Thailand.
For a similar reason the term ‘superhuman’ was avoided in the definition
of religion, since ‘superhuman’ has connotations of ‘more than human’, ‘above
human’, and while much of the religious activities can be caught under a definition
that uses this term, it is not necessarily a classification that comprises all religious
action. It is quite possible to envisage religious agents that are ‘other than human’,
or even ‘below human’. Some of the spirits of Thai religion may well fall under
the latter heading. Since the morphological classification of religious agents will
differ from religion to religion, it was therefore decided to make the wording as
wide as possible and use the terms ‘immaterial non-human agents’.
In contrast with the approach of some anthropologists of the functionalist
school, religion is here not thought of as a social system, as a sub-system, or as
35
36
women may differ from men in religious experiences and access to religious
knowledge,
In order to impart these principal notions, the ceremonies that are dis-
cussed in this book are ordered along a developmental scale, and from time to
time a distinction between the sexes is mentioned. Thus a picture of religion
is developed in a manner somewhat like that in which religion unfolds itself to
the Thais.
In order to impart an idea of the techniques used during the different stages
of the fieldwork, some additional methods and technical devices have to be
mentioned.
(a) A picture of the historical background was obtained mainly through dis-
cussions with the older members. All available documentary records of
the monastery were checked. Altogether this comprised 346 books and
pamphlets in Thai and Pali, as well as several handwritten sources. Most
of the books, however, were old copies of texts used by monks to prepare
themselves for state examinations. The handwritten sources were exercise
books in which was recorded all individuals who had contributed to reli-
gious ceremonies held in the monastery. Altogether the printed and written
documents were interesting, but of very limited historical value.
(b) In line with the participant-observer technique, information was obtained
from in-depth interviews rather than from questionnaires. In general it can
be stated that when a certain point remained unanswered, or when the
researcher failed to understand a particular remark or statement, this was
noted in a booklet especially reserved for this purpose and followed up in
subsequent questioning.
(c) Genealogical charts were constructed, comprising all households that
regularly supported the monastery. These charts included all people
already deceased who could be remembered. It was recorded of all males in
the charts whether or not they had ever been a monk, and if this question
was answered in the affirmative, how many times they had been ordained,
in which monastery and for how many years.
(d) On some occasions when the researcher was prevented from attending an
important ceremony through overlap with other engagements, a photo-
graphic record was obtained. For this purpose, an informant was instructed
in the use of photographic equipment. The resulting photographs were
often instruments in further conversations and interviews.21
21 How an anthropologist unwittingly can precipitate change in the community under research
is demonstrated by the fact that this informant gained employment at first as a freelance
photographer, and later was employed by several newspapers to supply relevant photographs.
38
(e) While the use of the tape-recorder was restricted for reasons mentioned
earlier in this chapter, it was possible to make recordings of much of the
chanting of the monks. These recordings were later used to compare the
chanting of the Wat Sanchao monks with the texts issued by the Department
of Religious Affairs and by the Mahāmakuta Educational Council of the
Buddhist University in Bangkok.
(f) Furthermore, it should be mentioned that attempts were made to evaluate
the instrument upon which the whole project depended in the first place:
the anthropologist himself. Nobody who for a prolonged time immerses
himself in an alien culture can remain objective. The personality of the
researcher is involved, not only when he chooses his path through the
multitude of information which unfolds itself daily around him, but also
when he selects contacts with members of the community. The values
and attitudes of a person influence his manner of observation, his basic
classification, his line of analysis.
22 Mrs Margaret Evans of the Australian National University spent many hours of her time
in order to prepare answers to my questions.
39
Table 2: Tests administered to the researcher before and after the main period of
fieldwork
March 1968 April 1969
1 Eysenck Personality Inventory 1 Eysenck Personality Inventory
Form A Form B
2 Thematic Apperception Test 2 Thematic Apperception Test
3 Rorschach 3 Rorschach
4 Cattell’s 16 P.F. Form A 4 Cattell’s 16 P.F. Form B
5 Minnesota Multiphasic 5 Minnesota Multiphasic
Personality Inventory Personality Inventory
6 Al1port-Vernon-Lindzey’s 6 Al1port-Vernon-Lindzey’s
Study of Values Study of Values
7 Leary Interpersonal Check List 7 Leary Interpersonal Check List
8 Willoughby Personality 8 Willoughby Personality
Schedule Schedule
40
C hi l d re n a n d R e l i g i o n
1 Literally: ‘doing’, ‘action’. The Thai spelling indicates that the Thai word kam (กรรม) is
derived from the Sanskrit karma, rather than the Pali kamma.
2 Pali viññāṇa, life force, also extending over rebirths.
3 H. G. Quaritch Wales, ‘Siamese Theory and Ritual Connected with Pregnancy, Birth
and Infancy’, Journal of the Royal Anthropological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland. Vol.
LXIII, 1933, pp. 442–3. Phya Anuman Rajadhon, Life and Ritual in Old Siam, 1961, pp.
109–10. It is related to the belief that all dreams can be interpreted. Whenever a person
has a vivid dream or a nightmare he or she may try to find out its meaning by consulting
textbooks or knowledgeable persons.
41
she takes and that a person who possesses bad karma will not be able to avoid a
horrible fate. However, the place of the karma doctrine in the Thai world-view
is quite different; in no way can the religion of the Thais be called fatalistic or
deterministic.
As an illustration the agricultural pursuits of a farmer can be taken. The
man who plants a crop and tends his fields has a chance of reaping a harvest,
whilst the man who decides not to plant will surely run out of food. The
methods of dealing with the environment in order to maximize the chances
of obtaining profitable results have been handed down through the genera-
tions. Magical manipulations form part of the traditional knowledge, and it is
generally accepted in Wat Sanchao that these have proven successful in many
instances. Sometimes, however, a person does not obtain the desired result
notwithstanding the fact that he took proper precautions. Small misfortunes
can be explained in several ways: the techniques may have been applied in
the wrong manner or at the wrong time, the persons involved may have been
inexperienced, or the propitiation of outside powers may have been insuffi-
cient. It is only when a man has continuously used the proper methods and still
receives setback after setback that he has to acknowledge that his bad karma
must be the overriding factor.
The store of karma from past lives is for most people a mixed bag, some
positive but also a certain amount negative. In ordinary daily life references to
this ultimate decisive factor of a person’s circumstances are seldom made. Only
in special circumstances during a run of exceptionally bad fortune, but also
when there is an otherwise inexplicable amount of good luck, will reference be
made to a person’s karma. In general, the karma doctrine is therefore used ad
hoc, as an ultimate explanation for the occurrence of events.
The karma doctrine and magical manipulations are therefore not fun-
damentally opposed in the eyes of Thai farmers. Placing a karmic system in
opposition to a magical system, as Robert Textor does for a village in central
Thailand, seems to be based on the apperceptions of that researcher rather
than those of the farmers themselves. This becomes even more evident when
he gives the karmic system the epithet ‘moral’, and calls the magical system
‘amoral’.4 The karma doctrine does not exclude the principles underlying the
application of magical power. On the contrary, the two systems are comple-
mentary. Someone who neglects magical protection, relying solely on his good
karma, is like a gambler trusting his luck. A man who takes the appropriate
4 R. B. Textor, An Inventory of Non-Buddhist Supernatural Objects in a Central Thai Village.
1960, pp. 8–11 et passim.
42
5 Sathian Koset, ประเพณี เก่าของไทย, 1957, pp. 10–35. An English translation can be found in
Life and Ritual in Old Siam, pp. 110–120.
6 The baht is the monetary unit of Thailand. In 1968, the pound sterling equalled approxi-
mately forty-nine baht, or one US dollar equalled twenty baht. More relevant for the rural
setting: a labourer’s wages were approximately twenty-five baht per day.
43
forty baht when she worked for a family with whom she was not particularly
intimate.
The midwife formally accepts the tray, but it is immediately taken away and
set in an honourable place of the house. She does not take possession of it until
three days after the delivery. The midwife assists the pregnant woman with her
skills, which usually include the application of ointments, the use of medicine,
the uttering of spells and manipulation. As soon as the child has been born,
mucus is removed from the mouth and the nose of the baby by sucking. The
umbilical cord is cut with a knife made from mai ruak, a type of bamboo.7 The
placenta is collected, salted and placed in a jar that is kept in the room for three
days. The day of the week and the lunar month are noted, so that the child
may use this knowledge later when making decisions for which astrological
calculations are necessary.
Under the house, directly beneath the place of confinement, a heap of
thorny branches has been laid. This acts as a cover for the body liquids and
excreta that may fall during and after the confinement. The thorns prevent not
only animals, but also malevolent spirits from feeding on the offal.
On the third day after birth, the child is ceremoniously accepted into the
world of his relatives. The infant is laid on a kradong (กระด้ง), a large round
winnowing tray. The midwife moves the tray three times in a clockwise direction,
while chanting slowly: ‘Three days, child of the spirits; four days, human child
– who will receive this child?’8 An older relative, who has a good standing in
the community and who has the reputation of being able to raise children
successfully, accepts the small infant from the hands of the midwife and has to
pay a ceremonial sum for this honour. On this occasion the child receives a string
of cotton thread bound around his right wrist,9 a ritual intended to reassure the
soul of the infant.10 After this precaution, the baby is bumped softly on the floor
in order to acquaint it with the fact that harsh and startling events may occur in
the world of the humans where it has now been received. After the infant has
thus been introduced to its relatives, the midwife receives her payment. The jar
containing the afterbirth can be buried under a tree somewhere near the house.
This establishes a link between the tree and the infant: if the tree thrives, the
44
child should be healthy and happy; if the tree droops or dies, it bodes ill for the
infant and he or she should be guarded carefully.
The elementary ceremonies surrounding birth close with the tonsure of
the child. On an auspicious day, some time after mother and child have left the
place of confinement, a member of the family who is skilful with a big razor
shaves the head of the infant.11 If the child seems ailing and the family fears
that it may not be sufficiently strong enough to face life, it may be decided
to leave one or more tufts of hair growing. In that case, during the following
years, the rest of the head should be shorn regularly, leaving the tufts to grow.
When the child is ten or more years old, this hair, which may have been plaited
or knotted, will be shaved off at an auspicious moment. Many children who
soon after birth appear perfectly healthy may never have such a topknot. The
tonsure not long after birth can be regarded as a purification rite; it serves to
cleanse the baby’s head, which has been treated disrespectfully and which has
come into contact with unclean matter.
Farmers who can afford to pay for elaborate ceremonies may decide, before
a child is born, to have the place of confinement purified and protected. They
invite a ritual specialist, who can be a Buddhist monk or an older layman, to do
this. The specialist strings a white cotton thread, known as sai sin (สายสิญจน์),12
around the place of confinement in the form of a square, several feet above
floor level. Whenever such a cord is placed around an area or an object it sets
the enclosed area apart as a sacred space. The ritual specialist then sacralizes a
bowl of water, by reciting from memory a number of auspicious verses in the
Pali language whilst holding a lighted candle above the surface of the water
in the bowl. During this recitation, the specialist holds the candle at such an
angle that it drips wax onto the surface of the water. After sacralization, the
water is known as ‘mantra-water’, or nam mon (น้ำ�มนตร์). Immediately after
the nam mon has been prepared, it can be sprinkled in and around the area of
confinement. The householder may keep some of the nam mon in order at a
future date to extinguish the fire that traditionally formed an essential part of
the post-natal treatment.
11 The tonsure ceremony was commonly used in ancient India. It is described in detail in
the Grhya Sūtras, in the Manu-smrti and dealt with in Kane’s History of Dharmaśāstra,
Vol. II, p. 260 ff. It is by no means certain, however, that the leaving of a topknot is derived
from India. See G. E. Gerini, Chūlākantamańgala, the Tonsure Ceremony as Performed in
Siam, 1976.
12 This word means literally ‘sprinkling cord’. It is related to the Sanskrit word siñcana, or
the Pali siñcanaka. The connection with water lies probably in the ritual of sacralization
of this water.
45
So as to ward off evil influences the ritual specialist may have prepared
and brought along various kinds of sacred objects: small banners and magical
drawings. The banners are usually made of gaily coloured pieces of paper cut
in the shape of a triangle and fastened by one side to a small stick. The magical
drawings, known as yan (ยันต์),13 are usually made on paper or on cloth. Often
they consist of intricate geometrical designs in which small characters in the
sacred Mūl script are inserted. Both the banners and the yan are placed above
and around the place of confinement.
Many older women around Wat Sanchao have been through a period of
yu fai (ยู่ไฟ), or ‘staying at the fire’ after giving birth to a child. Nowadays it is
considered old-fashioned and not worth the trouble. Only a single case was
reported recently.14 For this reason yu fai was not included in the description of
the elementary birth ceremonies to which it formally belonged. Nowadays it
may be regarded as a kind of elaboration and thus is mentioned here.
Before the child is due to be born, an oven is prepared from a layer of
banana leaves covered with a generous amount of sand. The farmer collects an
ample supply of firewood, which he heaps up neatly, and covers with a thorny
branch to keep evil spirits away. The wood ought to be of good quality, so it will
burn steadily for a long time. He should not, for example, collect bamboo
for that burns unevenly. Moreover, bamboo was traditionally used to cover
corpses and to cremate bodies. Its association with death is the reason why
young persons should not even plant bamboo.
As soon as the child is born, a big fire is lit in the earth oven, and the mother’s
bed is placed as close to it as she can endure. The fire is kept burning for days
and the mother and child should not leave the place of the confinement until
it has been ritually extinguished. Usually yu fai lasts an uneven number of days,
and a woman may remain as long as fifteen days on the confinement bed.
The older women relish their periods of yu fai in their memory. During this
time they are the centre of attention in the household. The men are employed
to keep the fire burning, and female relatives are in constant attendance. Many
friends come to visit the lying-in woman and cheer her up with interesting
stories. Visitors avoid mentioning the heat of the fire, because it is believed
that if such a topic were broached the lying-in would become unbearable. The
13 A word derived from the Pali yanta or the Sanskrit yantra. Originally the word meant ‘aid’
or ‘tool’, to be used in meditation. The Thais often use it in a restricted sense, namely as
‘mystical diagram’. The original meaning can be found in the Thai language in the word
for mechanical engineering: ‘wichayantakam’ (วิชายันตรกรรม).
14 Personal communication, Sangiam Charoenchan, 14 November 1969.
46
period of lying by the fire is considered to have a very positive medicinal effect.
The fire warms the belly, dries up the liquids, cleanses and heals. It is believed
that a woman who has had a period of yu fai will live to a ripe age without
suffering from pains in the back or in the belly.15
An elaboration of the ceremony of the winnowing basket, three days after
birth, consists of a ceremony known as tham khwan (ทำ�ขวัญ). A ritual specialist
invokes non-human powers to come and assist in the ritual. In order to cause
these non-human agents to assist he folds some bai si (ใบศรี), conical structures
folded from banana leaves, and places an egg atop of each of these. Around
the bai si, other foods that the powers like, such as bananas and sweetmeats,
are placed. The ceremony is intended to strengthen the khwan (ขวัญ) of the
child. Khwan is a word that does not translate easily into English; it may mean
‘ego’, ‘soul’, ‘morale’, ‘grace’, or ‘prosperity’. In order to increase the courage
and reassure the soul of the infant, it is dressed with glittering ornaments and
the whole family, sitting around the child in a circle, passes around three lit
candles, from which each member wafts the smoke towards the centre. During
the ritual, the specialist binds a piece of cotton string around the baby’s wrist,
anoints the child’s forehead and implores the child’s soul to be unwavering, to
stay firm and to enjoy its pleasant surroundings.
The tham khwan ceremony may be repeated at various periods of a person’s
life. For example, it may be undergone when a person has had a severe shock as
a result of which it is feared that he is losing his zest for life. It is also customary
to hold a tham khwan ritual during the elaborate preparations for ordination as
a Buddhist monk. Tham khwan is a feature of the house building ritual and it
may be performed over the rice harvest, immediately before threshing.16
Finally, the tonsure of an infant may be subject to elaborations. Well-to-do
farmers may use the occasion of the first shaving of their child to invite a chapter
of monks who will perform a ceremony at home. These monks sacralize a bowl
of water and, while they chant a final blessing, the head of the child is shaved.
If the infant is a boy, the leader of the chapter of monks, usually the abbot, may
remove the first lock of hair. A small girl has to be handled by laymen only since
the rules of the Sangha, at least in their Thai interpretation, forbid a monk to
touch females.
15 For an overview of the spread and meaning of the custom of lying by the fire, see Lenore
Manderson, ‘Roasting, Smoking and Dieting in Response to Birth: Malay Confinement
in Cross-Cultural Perspective’, Social Science and Medicine, Vol. 15 B, 1981, pp. 509–20.
16 More details can be found in Phya Anuman Rajadhon’s ‘The Khwan and its Ceremonies’,
Journal of the Siam Society, Vol. 50, 1962, pp.119–64 and in Ruth-Inge Heinze, Tham
Khwan: How to Contain the Essence of Life, 1982.
47
Not long after birth, when it appears likely that the child will live, its name
is chosen. There are two types of children’s names, which I shall call the private
name and the nickname. The private name must be selected with care, for an
unsuitable appellation may cause its bearer to become sickly and listless. Before
deciding upon a name many parents will consult friends who have access to
a booklet with choices, or they will ask suggestions from a monk whom they
trust in these matters. The person who advises will be mainly guided by the
time and day of the week when the child was born. A person born on a Monday,
for example, should avoid vowels in the written form of the name, whilst the
Sunday child can make use of all vowels.
Often the private name will have an auspicious, pleasant or highly valued
connotation. Thus a person may be called with the word for a respected trait
in people, such as ‘Polite, Clean, Beautiful, Happy, or Gentle’. Others may
carry the name of precious or semi-precious metals: ‘Gold, Silver or Copper’.
There are names which are especially suited for boys, such as: ‘Firm, Extreme,
Brave, Battle, Grasp, Impressive’, whilst girls may be referred to by names like:
‘Fascinating, Full of Auspiciousness, or Attractive’.17
There are people who believe that a small child should not be called by its
private name for it reflects characteristics that the infant still does not possess.
It will be only after the years of childhood are over that a person can make
full use of the name that has so carefully been chosen for him. Therefore, a
nickname is used during the child’s tender years, and in the choice of this
nickname the parents carefully avoid reference to beautiful or auspicious
objects or concepts. They select ‘neutral’ words instead, which are neither
auspicious nor inauspicious. They may choose the generic name of a domestic
animal: ‘Pig, Chicken, Dog, or Cat’, or a common adjective: ‘Little, Fat, Red, or
Plenty’.
A special characteristic of the child may prompt the nickname and this
leaves room for choosing a rather humorous name such as: ‘Beaming, Big
Vessel, Tiny, Squeal, Turtle, or Frog’. Sometimes the nickname is formed from
an abbreviation of the real personal name, choosing one of the syllables of the
latter. There are families in which the nicknames of all children begin with the
same consonant.
It has been repeatedly mentioned in the literature that the use of nicknames
in Thailand is derived from a custom to deceive evil spirits into thinking that
there was no child in the house, that, when parents call out to their child, it is
17 The many rules of name giving are extensively dealt with in Wiriyaburana, ประเพณี ไทย
[Customs of the Thais], 1967, pp. 78–117.
48
only the cat, the dog, or an innocent, harmless word being called.18 Informants
who live around Wat Sanchao, however, when confronted with such statements,
did not wholly agree. In general, they considered the idea that people gave ugly
nicknames in order to deceive spirits ingenious, and it could be true for other
regions or may have been so a long time ago. It was not the reason why the
farmers of Wat Sanchao give nicknames. Some nicknames are neutral, simply
because it is too soon to use the real name, but names such as ‘Pig’ and ‘Dog’
are chosen in the hope that the baby will need as little attention and care as a
dog or a pig. In this respect it is relevant to notice that the nicknames given to
children never refer to inauspicious objects or to objects which are considered
magically powerful. Names that cannot be used are those connected with
footwear, pain, death, poverty, ignorance, heat, fire, tools, and rice.
Generally, the Thai child spends its first two years on earth in a relaxed
environment. Children are taught to walk, to speak and to control the body
excretory functions without any form of punishment. They meet with practically
no restrictions: they eat when they are hungry and sleep when they feel tired.
Instead of receiving censure for a clumsy movement or a wrongly pronounced
word, they are praised for each successful step and every attempt to utter a word
is met with encouragement.
Before a child is one year old it should be able to make several polite
gestures. Every time a child wishes to receive something, and immediately
after obtaining something from an older person, be it milk from the breast of
the mother, or a toy from an the hands of a grandparent, he has to raise his
hands, palm to palm. During the first six months the relatives have to guide the
arms of the baby to help him perform the gesture, but by the time the child is
one year this gesture has become a conditioned reflex.
Another gesture that infants learn often before they are able to speak is
the prostration: placing the hands palms down on the floor and lowering the
head until it rests between the hands. Both gestures are extremely important in
Thai culture; they are part of almost every religious ceremony, and the order
in which these gestures are made and the exact manner of execution reveal the
hierarchical positions of the participants in a ritual.19
49
The infant can freely observe how the household’s ritual leader, usually
its eldest member, pays obeisance to the ancestors. Little children are usually
greatly attracted by the lighting of candles and incense and are encouraged to
imitate the elder’s prostrations. Gradually, as the child grows older and begins
to understand language in its finer nuances, the training in proper behaviour
becomes more serious. At this time, round about the age of two, the infant is
slowly weaned from the breast of its mother and encouraged to eat without
the supplementary mother’s milk. Now, if the child acts naughtily with the
apparent knowledge that he breaks a rule of behaviour, he is punished by
verbal reproach or, if deemed necessary, by a mild slap.
From about the age of two, the education of boys begins to differ in character
from that of girls. Small girls are taught to do errands for their mother, to help
watch over a younger relative and to make themselves useful in the household.
The boys on the other hand are allowed to wander about and explore their
surroundings. The only chore that automatically falls to a male child is to keep
an eye on the buffaloes or oxen when they are allowed to graze, or to pluck
grass for these domestic animals. The difference in treatment between the
sexes is stressed from a very early age in the different ways of clothing. When
they can afford it, parents will dress a baby girl with a string around the waist
from which a small metal shield, called chaping (จะปิ้ง),20 hangs over the lower
abdomen as cache-sexe, whilst small boys may walk about naked. A girl is made
to wear short pants at least from about the age of four and from about nine they
must cover all the lower part of the body. Boys may wear short trousers from
about the age of six.
One of the strictest rules impressed upon girls is that they should never
come close to a Buddhist monk. All women, regardless of age, must keep their
distance from members of the Sangha, so that the monks can conform to the
rules in the strict manner that these are interpreted in Thailand. A small boy is
not kept away from monks. On the contrary, parents often like to present their
small sons to a monk when they meet, and note with approval how their child
is touched and blessed.
A young girl ought to be near the house. She should help in the kitchen,
assist in cleaning the house, and sweep the compound. She is given charge over
a younger child, thus learning to handle infants skilfully at a very early age. In
her autobiography Prajaub recollects her experiences:
20 The small leaf-shaped shield is made of gold, silver, or base metal, depending on the
wealth of the family. It is intended to hide the genital area.
50
Sometimes, while Mother was away on her short errands, I had to look after
my little brother who could crawl very well now. My goodness! To keep him
from falling off the verandah was the same as trying to keep a living crab to
stay on a tray.21
Part of the household duties of a girl may consist of the offering of food
to the monks every morning at dawn. Tambiah puts forward the suggestion
that young men avoid feeding the monks because they ‘find it uncongenial
to approach their peers who have temporarily renounced the world . . .’ .22
Such a motivation cannot be ascribed to the men of Wat Sanchao. It is true
that few men give food to the monks in the early morning, but their absence
can be readily accounted for. Early in the day, when the sun is low, most able
men will be in the fields. When men happen to be available they perform this
ceremony willingly. Another reason why this task falls almost automatically to
the women lies in the fact that women prepare the rice and curries. Therefore
they are often better judges of the amount that can be distributed to others
without depriving the household.
A child’s first acquaintance with the monastery usually dates from a very
early age. On the Buddhist special day of worship, wan phra (วันพระ), which
is held four times each lunar month,23 children are often brought along whilst
their parents attend the ceremonies. During the periods of the service when the
monks chant sacred texts, most laymen sit in a polite posture, with the hands
raised palm to palm in front of the chin or chest. Some children readily follow
the example of their parents, but if the chanting persists for too long young
people usually relax from their polite position. No child will be reproached for
not keeping his hands up. Only when a youngster threatens to interrupt the
ceremony will he be mildly restrained or carried outside.
Some ceremonies in the monastery can be accompanied by festive elabo-
rations. In order to attract a great number of people who will donate money,
the organizers of some major ceremonies provide a selection from a variety of
attractions, music, classical theatre, popular drama, shadow theatre, films, or
acrobatics. On such occasions great crowds of children flock to a monastery
21 Prajaub Thirabutana, Little Things, 1971, p. 18.
22 S. J. Tambiah, ‘The Ideology of Merit and the Social Correlates of Buddhism in a Thai
Village’, in Dialectic in Practical Religion, ed. by E. R. Leach, 1968, p. 66.
23 Wan phra is held on the day of full moon, the eighth day of waning moon, new moon
and the eighth day of waxing moon. These are exactly the days reserved by the Buddhist
monks for recitation of the teachings in the early days of Buddhism. See Mahāvagga II, 1,
1–11, 2,1; Sacred Books of the East, Vol. XIII, pp. 239–41.
51
and they enjoy watching the entertainers free of cost. Through the theatre per-
formances especially they become acquainted with the splendour and pomp
of royalty, the might and beauty of gods, the fearful looks and bad behaviour of
demons, the antics and power of the semi-divine monkey Hanuman, and the
nobility and heroism of Rāma, one of the avatāras of Viṣṇu.
The attitudes of many children towards the monastery may well be am-
biguous. The splendour of the gods is counteracted by the fearful impressions
left by the demons. The normally so friendly and pleasantly spoken monks
suddenly appear inaccessible during the impressive sonorous chanting of
sacred texts. The lofty buildings are reported to be the habitat of dangerous
spirits. In part of the beautiful monastery grounds corpses are stored, awaiting
the annihilation of the body on the funeral pyre. Children may watch older
people handle the decaying bodies immediately before cremation. It is com-
mon knowledge that, at night, spirits roam around in the monastery grounds
and beyond. When the dogs of the monastery start to howl it is reputedly
because they can see these spirits even if men sometimes cannot. Children are
told about these monastery spirits; beings, often dressed in a white shroud,
sometimes deceptively looking like ordinary humans, but capable of suddenly
changing into skeletons trying to grab people.
Much of the lore surrounding evil spirits has been laid down in the form
of a film entitled Mae Nak Khanong Rak.24 This film is full of examples of the
powers of different kinds of spirits. Various versions of this film have been
circulating in rural central Thailand for many decades and it is probably
Thailand’s most popular horror film. Many Wat Sanchao people have seen the
film on more than one occasion.
At night, a multitude of strange beings threaten the humans. These spirits
often lurk in patches of dark vegetation and stories about their characteristics
vary, depending on the accounts of eyewitnesses. Sometimes the only indication
was a sudden rustling noise, a peculiar sound, or the appearance of a pair of
luminous eyes. The wise person does not stay to investigate: he hurries home to
tell of a narrow escape from the terrible shock of an encounter with an unknown
evil power.
Some of the spirits that a person may encounter are well known from lore
If a man meets one of them he would certainly recognize the spirit for what it
is. A great looming shape with a small head that makes a piercing noise must
52
be a pret (เปรต),25 a being suffering for the heavy sins of a past life. The pret is
considered not very dangerous; if one encounters it, one should have pity on
them and offer some merit with an appropriate sentence.
Much more dangerous are the phi krasue (ผีกระสือ), ghosts that feed on
excrement. A phi krasue is shaped like a human head with entrails hanging
underneath.26 They reveal their position during the night by intermittently
sending out a small red light. During the daytime these ghosts live in the body
of an ordinary-looking person. As soon as the person in whom a phi krasue lives
falls asleep, the ghost can roam about and search for food. If someone succeeds
in capturing a phi krasue outside the body of its host, the ghost will plead to
be released and reputedly will offer great amounts of money in return for its
freedom. The person in whom the phi krasue lives during the daytime may
not be aware of the fact that such a ghost lives as a parasite in his body. Being
possessed by phi krasue is regarded as hereditary and, if it becomes known that
a certain family is prone to carry these ghosts, pressure may be exerted to have
them removed from the district.27
Extremely malicious is the class of spirits called the phi taihong (ผีตายโหง),
literally: ‘spirits who died wrongly’. In this category fall all those who died in an
inauspicious manner: from cholera, poisoning, a snakebite, or from a bullet- or
knife wound inflicted in anger. Each time a person dies unprepared and very
much against his own will he may become a phi taihong. The most dangerous
of this type comes into being when a woman dies when pregnant or during
childbirth.
Much less dangerous are the phi ban (ผีบ้าน), also known as phi ruean (ผี
เรือน), the ghosts of the ancestors who hover around the house that once was
their own property. These house-spirits jealously watch what their descend-
ants do with the property. If the phi ban become offended by an activity of one
or more occupants of the house, they may express their discontent by causing
nightmares or illnesses. During the daytime their spirit is believed to reside
near a shelf in a high place in the house where some of their ashes and some-
times a picture are the material witnesses of their former residence as humans
in the home. At night they may roam around the house and the compound.
53
The present householder usually lights some incense and a candle on the shelf
every evening and reports to the phi ban that everything is well. Unpleasant
news is usually carefully omitted in the daily account, lest the phi ban become
upset and irritated.
A different category of powers is the chaophi (เจ้าผี), tutelary spirits living
outside the homes of people. These powers may reside in the forest, in a
mountain cave or in a tall tree, but sometimes people have been able to entice
one to come and live in a shrine. These powers are usually addressed by the
title ‘Lord father’ or ‘Lady mother’, depending on which sex they are believed
to be. From time to time they should be presented with an offering. Some
pleasant aroma from a bundle of incense or from some flowers, a candle alight,
or the essence of some food or liquor are reputed to attract such powers. In
return for these gifts, the persons who offer them may ask that these powers
provide assistance in difficult ventures. When it is an important matter, the
aid of a ‘Lord father or ‘Lady mother’ may be obtained by promising an even
greater gift if the venture comes off.
Children are well aware of the existence of these different, potentially
dangerous powers. They hear stories of terrifying encounters and of people
who suddenly became violently ill as a result of offending such a spirit. A child
will be taught to behave politely, and to make appropriate, polite gestures
to the different spirits. In addition, a simple spell can be taught which will
be protective in all circumstances. Thus Kumut Chandruang learned to say
‘Namo’,28 probably derived from ‘Namo Buddhāya’ (In Name of the Buddha).
Other protective measures taken are in the form of small Buddha images and
amulets. Most protective objects tend to be reserved for boys. Girls are rarely
seen with objects that have the power to protect; on the few occasions that
a girl carried a Buddha image on a string around the neck, it was reputedly a
‘small one’, ‘not a powerful one’, or ‘more for decoration than for protection’.29
Around their necks, many boys wear a cord from which one or more objects
dangle that have the power to protect. Often it is an image of the Buddha or a
medal, cast in honour of a famous monk. Sometimes there also hangs a small
container containing a tiny scroll. These scrolls, takrut (ตะกรุด), may be of
paper, cloth, or metal and usually are tightly rolled up inside the container, but
sometimes are rolled directly around the cord itself. Their protective value is
derived mainly from the fact that yan, magical drawings, have been made on
28 Kumut Chandruang, My Boyhood in Siam, p. 68.
29 Since the time of fieldwork in the 1960s, this has changed. It is no longer unusual to see a
woman wearing the same size images of famous monks and of the Buddha as men do.
54
the material by a person skilled in magical lore. Some boys wear beads, made
from the seeds of the tamarind. Some may have a cord around the waist with a
talisman attached, but when it is worn so low on the body, the protective object
cannot depict the Buddha or a monk. Instead it usually is a small wooden or
metal phallus reputedly powerful enough to make evil spirits recoil.
The boy who wears protective objects is instructed to handle them with
care. The cord around his neck is so long that it can be taken off, for example,
when the boy lies down to sleep. Under no circumstance should an amulet
be placed on the floor or in any other low position where someone may
inadvertently step on it. When washing or relieving himself, the boy may put
the amulet into the mouth, or temporarily hang it at the back so that it cannot
be insulted.30 The object on the cord around the waist cannot be taken off so
easily and at inauspicious moments when the wearer does not wish to insult
the amulet, it can be shifted to the back, out of sight.
Formal Education
Especially since the abolition of the absolute monarchy in 1932, the Thai
government has accelerated the programme to bring primary education within
the reach of the whole rural population.31 The introduction of government
schools has resulted in some far-reaching changes in the social life of the
farmers.
Before the time of government schools, formal education was in the hands
of the monks. The skills of reading and writing were taught to a select group
of small boys, the dek wat (เด็กวัด), literally: ‘monastery children’, who lived in
the monastery as servants to the monks. Lessons were given every afternoon,
five days per week, by a monk who could read and write with ease. No formal
instruction was given on wan phra or on the day preceding wan phra. Apart from
the intricacies of the Thai alphabet, instruction often included the learning of
some Pali formulae and the mastering of a sacred script; in central Thailand this
is called Khom (ชอม) writing. The Khom alphabet, also known as Mūl writing, is
a form of Cambodian writing (Khom being one of the words for ‘Cambodian’).
Kaufman was probably misinformed about the position of this script in the
whole of central Thailand when he reported that for his community most of
30 These rules of behaviour resemble the Hindu practices regarding the yajñopavīta, or
sacred cord.
31 B. J. Terwiel, ‘The Development of a Centrally Organized Education System in Thailand’
in K. Orr (ed.) Appetite for Education in Contemporary Asia, 1977, p. 47.
55
the monks were Cambodian and used their own books.32 In most monasteries
of central Thailand books in Khom script can be found and this is no indication
that those who read these books are of Khmer descent. It is only since World
War II that the Thai government has stopped printing Pali in Khom characters.
The script is still widely used in the more esoteric skills of tattooing and in the
drawing of yan.
The road to learning was therefore reserved for the boys in the monastery.
Girls were automatically excluded from monastery schools, at least until the
beginning of the twentieth century. Young women were traditionally kept
under the supervision of elder relatives at home until they married. Nowadays,
however, most rural monasteries have reserved part of their grounds for a co-
educational government school. Usually the monks do not possess a teaching
certificate and are therefore not allowed to teach in these schools.
When children are about six or seven, both boys and girls have to attend
school. The first time a child attends lessons, parents usually accompany him
in order to present the new pupil to the guardian spirit of the monastery in the
grounds of which the school is situated. The tutelary spirit of the Wat Sanchao
compound is called the Venerable Father Cha. He lives close by the temple and
the place where he usually resides used to be marked with a stone monument,
a miniature temple on a pedestal, and a table for placing gifts. During the
1980s the residence of the spirit has been totally refurbished in the form of a
special shrine and a life-size image of Father Cha himself. When a new child
is introduced, the parents light a candle and some incense, offer some flowers,
usually in the form of a garland, and speak to him in the local vernacular.
Father Cha is politely informed of the fact that henceforth this child will come
regularly to the monastery for the purpose of being educated. The parents then
ask the spirit to take notice of the fact that this child will be in and around
the school buildings and from time to time will be playing in the monastery
compound. They ask Father Cha to cause the child to be happy and successful.
After this prayer to the spirit the child can proceed towards the school.
All children are instructed to be always polite near Father Cha’s shrine and
to lower the head respectfully when passing close by. It would be unwise to
forget to inform this tutelary spirit of events of importance in the monastery,
because if the spirit becomes annoyed he may retaliate.
Some years ago, there was a dek wat who suddenly fell ill. He had contracted
a high fever, and the abbot was called to examine him. Another dek wat told
56
Figure 3.1: The Venerable Father Cha is also told when a young man is preparing to
be ordained in the monastery.
the abbot that he had seen the sick boy earlier that day playing near the
shrine of the Venerable Father Cha and that some incense sticks had been
taken away from the shrine. The abbot immediately understood the cause
of the fever and hurriedly sent someone over to light new incense sticks
near the shrine. Half an hour later the sick boy had recovered, his fever had
almost completely gone.33
33 Translated from a personal communication with Phra Phlik, on 5 November 1969. Later
Phra Phlik added: ‘Each monastery has its own spirit, and its characteristics vary. Our
Venerable Cha happens to be easily offended.’
57
From an exercise book. The Thai text says: ‘Indicate with √ which is
the most polite way of sitting’.
Most children do not know the exact translation of these words, but
virtually all are aware that they refer to the Triple Gem: The Buddha, the
Dhamma and the Sangha. Also they may recognize that the monks often use
these sentences in their official chanting: they are the opening clauses of three
paragraphs.
During term the children flock to the monastery grounds five days a
week. Those rural schools that still adhere to the monastery calendar close
their doors on wan phra and the day preceding wan phra. However, all but
the most isolated schools now conform to the practice in the provincial
capitals and follow the government policy by closing on Saturday and
Sunday instead.
Before school and during lunchtime the children can play in the monastery
grounds, and thus they have ample opportunity to become acquainted with
the daily affairs of the monastery. Children can see the monks eat during the
morning, they can look into the cells when the doors are left open. They are able
to witness the monks when they read, talk or rest. Monks can stroll to groups
of playing children and stop to chat with children they know particularly well.
Girls will be reminded of the fact that they will have to keep physical distance
from monks at all times. The members of the Sangha can be freely observed
when they perform public ceremonies, repair a building, or walk to the river
clad only in their yellow bathing cloth in order to wash themselves. Even during
classes, children are often aware of the daily routine in the monastery, for they
can hear the big monastery drum beaten around eleven o’clock in the morning
which warns the monks that in an hour’s time they have to start their daily fast.
Moreover, at regular times the schoolchildren will be able to discern the sound
of the monks’ chanting sessions.
59
60
monks. Whilst the monks carry their big metal begging bowls, the boys carry
multi-compartmental layered food containers, called pinto (ปิ่นโต). Monks
receive rice and occasionally some fruit or packed sweetmeats in their begging
bowls, but most other kinds of food, such as curries, soups, fish or meat, are
collected by the boys. The dek wat must store different foods in separate
compartments of the pinto and this requires some manual skills on their part.
Around seven o’clock in the morning they return heavily laden to the
monastery and help arrange the foods in the place where the monks usually
partake of their communal meal. If there are members of the Sangha who
prefer to eat alone, these have their portion placed in the privacy of their own
cells. It is common practice that all foods are shared, so that those who cannot
beg because of physical infirmities will not be disadvantaged.
When the monks gather to eat their joint meal, each platter of food and
each bowl of rice has to be ceremoniously offered to them. This is the result
of a strict interpretation of the rule that food may not be taken unless it has
61
been presented. During the transfer of the food from the households to the
monastery the dek wat have touched various items and to make certain that
no rules are broken, all is formally given again. Even if, during a monk’s meal, a
lay person were accidentally to touch some item of food that had already been
transferred to the Sangha for consumption, that layman should immediately
renew the presentation. This ceremonial offering of goods to the monks,
known by the verb prakhen (ประเคน), is one of the most important tasks of the
dek wat. Throughout the day, for example when a monk prepares some food
for his own consumption before the fasting period of the day begins, or when
a monk wishes to drink some liquid other than water, he can call upon any dek
wat to come to present the plate or the vessel in the proper manner.
After waiting on the monks during their morning meal, it is the turn of a
dek wat to eat. After a hurried meal they have to help wash the empty food
containers and sweep the floor of the building. Then all boys don their school
uniform and are inspected by some monks for any sign of dirt before they are
allowed to join the flag-raising ceremony in front of the school building.
During the time that a small boy is assigned to serve a certain monk, this
member of the Sangha should act as father and mother to the child. A monk can
punish a dek wat when he does not perform his tasks well. These punishments
vary from a verbal reprimand to a thrashing, depending on the gravity of the
offence.
Outside school time, a dek wat can be called to perform small services for
the monks, such as carrying messages, hauling water, buying refreshments, or
prakhen-ing an item of food. When a monk is invited to perform a ceremony
somewhere outside his monastery, he may decide to take his dek wat along.
However, if travel would interfere with school tasks, permission to accompany
a monk should be obtained from the head of the school. This can create an
awkward situation: a monk is ritually superior to a layman such as a schoolmaster
and should not ask favours from inferiors. Moreover, in this situation, the head
teacher will find it very difficult to refuse. Most monks therefore avoid this
embarrassing situation and, if the time clashes with the school curriculum they
prefer to go without a small servant.
Unlike the days before the arrival of the government primary schools, there
is no formal instruction of the dek wat in many monasteries. In Wat Sanchao, the
abbot may at times call the dek wat together and impress upon them that they
should behave in a proper and dignified manner, that they are not like ordinary
boys who do not have the advantage of living in a monastery, and that they
should try to observe the Five Precepts as conscientiously as they can.
62
The intelligent boy can obtain an extensive knowledge about the life of the
monks during the period that he is a dek wat. Daily he hears their chanting, and
the Pali texts that are most frequently repeated may soon be etched upon his
mind. He has a chance to witnesses many ceremonies and will soon understand
the difference between various types of ordination. He never misses a theatre
performance in his monastery grounds and is in the front of the crowd during
cremations.
A dek wat is not confined to the monastery; he can observe religious
events beyond its boundaries. During fund-raising ceremonies in neighbour-
ing monasteries he may accompany the monks who are invited to attend. If
a monk has to travel for business to the provincial capital or beyond, he may
take the cleverest boy along in order to let him handle money (a commod-
ity that, ideally speaking, a monk should not touch). Dek wat can be taken to
private ceremonies in the houses of laymen where they observe how water is
sacralized. If a boy is a servant of the monks for a long time, he will witness the
chanting for rain in the fields, the blessing of a new house, and the chants to
ensure longevity in a sick person.
The Novices
While in 1975 the Department of Religious Affairs reported more than 118,000
dek wat for the whole of Thailand, the number of novices reached almost
122,000.36 This represents an average of four novices per monastery. A
breakdown of the figure shows, however, that the distribution of novices is
uneven. In the north and northeast of Thailand and in the country’s capital, the
average is as high as seven novices per monastery, but in rural central Thailand
the average is only two novices per monastery. The great number of novices in
the north and north-east correlates with a relatively small number of monks,
and it seems that in these areas the novitiate has taken on some of the functions
of the order of monks in other regions. In the north and northeast many a man
is considered adult after having been a novice, while in rural central Thailand
having been a novice does not entitle a man to be called fully adult: he should
have been fully ordained before he can claim that status. With regard to the
high incidence of persons in novitiate in the capital, this is probably related to
the excellent schooling facilities in some monasteries in Bangkok.
Before the introduction of state schools in rural areas, if a young boy who
had not yet reached the age of twenty (the age when he could become a monk)
36 Kromkansasana, รายงานการศาสนาประจำ�ปี่ ๒๕๑๘ [Annual Report on Religious Affairs, B.E.
2518], p. 159.
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65
A d o l e s ce n ts, A m u l ets a n d
Tatto o i n g
1 In 1975, the first stage of a new school was opened and the curriculum was expanded
from 4 to 7 years, in line with government policy. In 1978 the second stage was under
construction and a year later festively opened.
66
he is more than twelve years old deprives the household of valuable manpower.
Moreover, since the cash income of the farmer depends largely on the size of the
rice crop and since that can fluctuate greatly from year to year, the steady financial
burden of a school-going child is something not lightly undertaken.
Therefore, after formal primary education, the great majority of children in
the Wat Sanchao community do not continue their formal schooling. Instead,
they are employed on their parents’ farms. Boys learn to plough and to harrow the
fields, to transplant young rice shoots, and to maintain the irrigation channels.
They obtain knowledge about the many different varieties of rice plants and
the ways to improve the soil. As their skill and physical strength increase they
become indispensable in the household. Often a hardworking son is rewarded
by his parents with the ownership of a plot of land. Girls gradually take over
many of their mother’s tasks. They learn to cook, tend fruit and vegetable plants
in the garden, and look after the younger children in the household. In addition
they must help with the lighter duties in the fields.
Work on the fields is intensive during several months of the year, but there
are periods when there is little labour on the land. During the slack periods
traditionally the boys were allowed to wander around with friends of their
own age. They went fishing, playing, or visiting the provincial capital in small
groups. This was the milieu in which they learned to smoke and obtained a
first taste of alcoholic beverages. Some of them might have fought among
themselves, others got involved in gambling, visited a brothel, or tried the
effect of opium. Girls were not allowed to roam about; they were carefully kept
under the supervision of elder members of the family. In the house there was
always something to mend and in a spare hour the young women could make
themselves useful by weaving cloth or making bamboo baskets. Nowadays,
however, especially since a sealed road has been constructed between Wat
Sanchao and the provincial capital many teenagers seek work in town during
the periods of agricultural ‘holidays’. Both young men and women commute
between the farm and the town where they are often engaged as unskilled
workers on construction sites.
After they leave school, teenagers usually have little contact with the mon-
astery. Many young people generally find it tedious to sit attentively while the
monks chant the sacred stanzas and they are rarely interested in the topics of
sermons. Thus there are very few teenagers who attend the regular services of
wan phra. Moerman reports the same for a community in northern Thailand.2
2 Michael Moerman, ‘Ban Ping’s Temple: The Center of a “Loosely Structured” Society’, in
M. Nash (ed.) Anthropological Studies in Theravada Buddhism, 1966, pp. 143–4.
67
opportunity to see members of the opposite sex, not only from their own
community but from the whole surrounding area. In former days this was one
of the few occasions when a young man might have a good look at marriageable
girls from outside his own community. Nowadays, communication with the
provincial capital and new economic factors have altered the picture. There is
now ample opportunity to meet girls on the way to town and while working
part-time during the slack seasons, and the attraction of the monastery fund-
raising ceremonies must have waned accordingly.
The relations between adolescents and the monastery seem therefore to
have little to do with religious matters. The adolescents are absent during most
of the religious services; they are drawn to the monastery only when there is
attractive entertainment.
Amulets
From a very early age onward, boys wear objects that reputedly protect them
against diseases, witchcraft and accidents. When a boy becomes adolescent
these objects with protective power become increasingly important in his life.
There is a great variety of objects which can serve as amulets, as Wood noted:
It would be possible to write a biggish book about charms to ward off
sword or bullet wounds. There are dozens of different kinds – tattoo marks,
written formulas, knotted strings, tiny images of Buddha, precious stones,
dried seeds, needles in the body, and others too numerous to mention.3
Undoubtedly the most popular object that is worn on a cord or chain around
a man’s neck is the image of the Buddha. These images can be cast from metal,
carved out of a piece of wood, ivory or resin, but the most common traditional
ones are manufactured from a mixture of many different ingredients, pressed
in a mould and baked. In modern times coloured plastic ones have become
quite popular. The Buddha images vary in size; their height may be as small as
two centimetres but can extend to seven or eight, their width varies from about
one to five centimetres.
Although laymen are not excluded from making these small protective
Buddha images, their manufacture is largely in the hands of older monks. In
order to make a pressed or printed image, commonly known as phra phim (พระ
พิมพ์), a monk needs, apart from the mould, a recipe, the proper ingredients,
and considerable knowledge of spells, the sacred script and magical drawings.
69
Figure 4.1: Buddha images and medallions. 1–4 Various Buddha images. Number 4
is made out of a bullet. Numbers 5, 6 and 7 are medallions of various monks. Number
8 depicts King Chulalongkorn.
Historians will be sad to hear that one of the common ingredients of phra phim
is the ash obtained from burning the oldest handwritten sacred books of the
monastery.
Almost as popular as Buddha images are the metal protective medallions,
which depict the head of a sacred person and often some Khom writing and
a simple yan on the other. Very popular are medallions with the face of King
Chulalongkorn, but even more popular are those depicting the face of a
Buddhist monk, one who is famous for his magical power. These medallions
are made by commercial firms, usually on order by the organizing committee
of a fund-raising ceremony (see Fig. 4.1, second row).
On the chain or cord from which a Buddha image or a medallion dangles,
other amulets can be hung. In Chapter III the takrut (paper, cloth or metal
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71
The child is a product of his mother’s reproductive organs and therefore her
bodily secretions are not harmful to his magical power.
In general, the inherent quality of the amulets is considered insufficient to
ensure protection to the person who wears them. Apart from being made from
auspicious material and depicting powerful symbols, the amulets usually ought
to be sacralized. This sacralization can take many forms. The most elementary
sacralization ritual, called pluksek (ปลุกเสก), can be observed, for example, when
a monk gives a small Buddha image to a layman. Taking the image in both hands,
the monk brings it close to his mouth and murmurs a short Pali formula. While
uttering the final syllable of the spell, the monk may blow sharply upon this
Buddha image. Some monks prefer to draw a simple yan over the amulet with
the index finger of the right hand or with a pencil while saying the Pali words.
The layman who receives the small image should press it against his forehead
for a short period in a gesture of the highest appreciation.
The elaborate ceremony primarily designed to sacralize amulets is called
phuthaphisek.5 The concentrated effort of monks that has been described in the
elementary ceremony above is also the core of the phuthaphisek ritual. It is one
of the rarer fund-raising ceremonies that a committee of laymen, in consultation
with the monks, can organize. This ceremony should be held on a day when
the ‘spirits are strong’: an ominous, portentous day on which it is inadvisable to
cremate corpses, such as a Saturday or a Tuesday. The fifth day of the fifth lunar
month is especially suitable for sacralization. That is also why there is a great
demand for tattoos on this day. This has also been reported for Bang Chan in
central Thailand by Robert Textor.6
As soon as the date for the phuthaphisek ceremony has been determined, a
chapter of renowned monks is invited and the event is widely announced. Any
man who wishes his collection of amulets to be sacralized wraps the objects in a
bundle and hands them to the organizing committee. The objects are counted,
the exact number is written down in a book, and a label is attached to each
bundle. No mistakes should be made in the registration of the objects, because
these amulets are highly valued by their owners, and a major argument would
erupt if, at the close of the ceremony, some objects were found to be missing.
The committee receives a fee for including an amulet in the sacralization
ceremony, and the more people who come to ‘charge’ or ‘recharge’ their charms,
the greater will be the total sum of money that is raised for the monastery. In
5 Thai: พฺทธอภิเษก. From the words Buddha and abhiṣeka (Sanskrit: anointing, consecrating).
6 R. B. Textor, An Inventory of Non-Buddhist Supernatural Objects in a Central Thai Village,
1960, p. 104.
72
addition, the organizers may order a special medallion cast for the occasion, or
a special type of Buddha image made. These can be included in the sacralization
ceremony, and sold afterwards in order to boost the finances of the monastery.
The ritual can take place in the temple, the most sacred place in the
monastery. For the phuthaphisek ritual, four tall, many-tiered umbrellas are
erected at the corners of the elevated platform on which the monks usually
chant. There is always an uneven number of tiers, sometimes five, or seven, but
usually nine of them. At a height of about l½ metres above the floor the sacred
white cotton thread, sai sin, is strung so that it encloses the rectangular area of
the elevated platform. The thread is taken around the back of the main Buddha
image, so that this huge object is within the delineated sacred precinct. All the
objects that have to be sacralized are placed in the middle of the marked-off
area.
The monks who have been invited to perform the ritual take their places
around the three free sides of the platform, in such a manner that they, together
with the huge Buddha image, enclose all amulets. Each monk places a begging
bowl partly filled with water on a metal ring directly in front of him. (The
begging bowls are rounded at the bottom so that they cannot be stood on a
flat surface without rolling over. Among the monk’s standard equipment is
therefore the metal begging bowl’s resting ring.) More strings of cotton thread
73
are unrolled from a central ball resting among the amulets towards each of the
monks.
At the outset, all monks prostrate themselves before the Buddha image, and
each monk lights a candle. Often the candle is affixed to the rim of the begging
bowl so that it will drip wax on to the surface of the water without intervention
on the part of the monk. Some monks prefer to fasten a coin to the bottom
end of the candle and gently lower it into the vessel until it rests upright on the
bottom of the begging bowl, the top of the candle protruding above the water
surface. The chapter of monks remains for a long period within the temple,
usually four or five hours, during which time they chant Pali texts in unison
and meditate. Thus they jointly emit so much beneficial power that the objects
in the centre become charged with it. During the whole time the monks are
thus engaged, all the doors and windows of the bot should remain closed to
prevent secular influences interfering. The amount of power thus generated is
so great that it is believed that the cotton thread which has been used during
the ritual becomes permanently charged. The organizing committee can sell
short pieces of this sai sin as amulets in their own right.
Thus, sacralization of auspicious objects takes place when monks say Pali
formulae over them, draw yan on them, blow upon them or meditate in their
proximity. In the examples given, the consecration is intentional and goal-
directed. Sometimes, however, amulets can be charged without the knowledge
of the monks who bring this about. A small bundle of amulets can be placed
under the edge of the cushion on which a monk sits chanting, preaching or
reciting the Pāṭimokkha, the rules of the discipline. The monk in question
may be totally unaware of the fact that, while performing his monastic task,
he adds to the power of some amulets. The custom of placing amulets in the
begging bowl that is used during the ordination ceremony can be seen in the
same light. This custom, as well as being often seen in central Thailand, has
also been reported for the northeast of the country by Francis Cripps.7 The
ordinand may know that friends have placed amulets in his begging bowl, but
the chapter of monks that accepts him as a member of the Sangha may not be
aware of this. At some point of the ordination ceremony, when the ordinand
must prostrate himself while the metal bowl remains strapped to his back, the
amulets may get displaced and suddenly rattle loudly. When the amulets thus
reveal their presence, everybody, the ordainer included, may smile amusedly,
74
well aware of what caused this noise. Sacralization can therefore take place
unintentionally; proximity to a major ritual is considered sufficient.
Not all objects need the intervention of monks to become charged with
power. A lay person who knows the proper actions and spells can charge objects
with power. In general it can be said that the intervention of a monk is needed
only for protective and beneficial power. Lay specialists often manipulate the
more aggressive and dangerous types of magic.
Sometimes no human intervention is needed to sacralize objects. It is
believed, for example, that during the Loi krathong (ลอยกระทง) festival, which
is held in November on the night of full moon of the twelfth lunar month, the
water in all rivers is charged with beneficial power. During this Loi krathong
night it is wholesome to bathe in the river and to fill the big earthenware
water vessels that every farmhouse possesses. A spectacular sacralization took
place on 25 September 1968, when lightning struck the bot of Wat Sanchao.
Scorched pieces of plaster were immediately collected by some of the monks,
later to be ground up as an ingredient for the manufacture of phra phim.
When donning a string of amulets, a man should raise the objects to his
forehead and say some auspicious words over them. Some men have learnt a
proper spell, khatha (คาถา),8 suitable for this particular action, often consisting
of a mixture of Pali, Sanskrit and Thai words. One such khatha begins as follows:
Buddhakāmo rathedhammaṃ dhammakāmo rathebuddhaṃ aṭṭhikāyo
kāyādevānaṃ oṃ srī oṃ srī brahma raṃ srī māmate.9
These opening words are obviously a mixture of Pali and Sanskrit. It seems that
some words have been changed during the process of oral transmission, or that
they are part of an esoteric body of knowledge. Therefore it is better to refrain
from a conjectural translation. The sentence which concludes the khatha is in
Thai and can be translated as: ‘I ask from the ṛṣis10 and also from these amulets
that they give me worthiness.’
If a man does not know any spells that are specifically designed for the
moment of donning a string of amulets, he may use some general auspicious Pali
words like: ‘Buddha ārakkhaṇaṃ, dhamma ārakkhaṇaṃ, Sangha ārakkhaṇaṃ,’
which may be translated as: ‘Buddha protection, Dharma protection, Sangha
protection.’ Or he can repeat three times the famous sentence: ‘Namo tassa
8 Sanskrit or Pali: gāthā.
9 Recorded from the Venerable Phlik, 7 July 1968.
10 The Thais use the Sanskrit word ṛṣi to indicate the legendary mystical wizards who were
the original possessors of knowledge.
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to show his amulets, and the conversation is likely to centre upon these for a
long period. Everyone is willing to explain in detail from where a prize amulets
hails, how rare it is, and what powers it possesses.
Tattooing
During the period that boys serve as dek wat in the monastery, they may often
have the opportunity to witness a tattooist, the khru sak (ครูสัก) or achan
sak (อาจารย์สัก),12 performing his skills upon young adult men. If the dek wat,
impressed by the ritual, ask the acan sak to tattoo them as well, the tattooing
specialist may be persuaded. He may place a small geometrical design, the
picture of a butterfly, or the shape of a little fish on the lower arm of the dek
wat. For a while the young boys will be very proud of their decorations. They
feel that they have shown themselves to be quite adult and brave in willingly
having undergone this painful ordeal. They feel a bond with the older men
who are ostentatiously tattooed. However, it will not be long before somebody
explains to them that the marks they received cannot be compared with the
tattooing of older people, and that their designs are simple decorations lacking
all the power ascribed to the more intricate patterns that their seniors received.
What appeared to them to be a mark of adulthood is soon felt to be a sign
of childishness that cannot be erased. ‘Proper’ tattooing is not given to men
until they are adult: when they have reached the age of about seventeen.
Traditionally, nearly every man in rural areas of Thailand used to be subjected
to tattooing of one kind or another. Monks as well as laymen can be achan sak,
but there is a difference in the scope of their work.
Monks as well as laymen can be achan sak, but there is a difference in the
scope of their work. When a member of the Sangha exercises magical skills by
tattooing young men he is limited in the application of this skill by the fact that
he is a monk. As a member of the Sangha his essential role should be earning
good karma, thereby generating beneficial power, for himself, for the persons
who sponsor him, and for his ancestors. When tattooing, he is therefore
customarily limited to the bestowal of beneficial, protective power upon the
man who receives his indelible marks. As a result of his monastic role he can
therefore tattoo only on the higher, most respected parts of the body: the chest
and the upper arms, but particularly the man’s head. The marks he bestows
are often directly related to his monastic occupation and consist of mystical
12 The word khru, as well as the word achan, means teacher. They are related respectively
to the Sanskrit words guru and ācārya. Sak is possibly derived from the word śalākā; see
Monier-Williams, A Sanskrit-English Dictionary, 1964, p. 1059.
77
diagrams and rows of syllables in the sacred Khom alphabet. They are applied
by the monk whilst he murmurs a few sacralizing formulae. Another tattooing
sometimes performed by a monk is the marking of the tongue, whereby he
does not really pierce the tongue’s skin: a perfunctory touch with the tattooing
needle suffices. It is believed that the beneficial power from a tongue-tattoo
pervades the whole body via the saliva. The tattoos made upon the body by a
monk protect a man from mishap and often are believed to have the power to
make a man popular and favoured with his fellow human beings.
A lay ritual specialist, not limited by his role to pure, protective, beneficial
powers, can offer his clients a much wider choice of body decorations. Not only
can he execute the designs that monks use and thus usually has in his repertoire
a variety of yan and many groups of syllables in the sacred alphabet, but in
addition he can apply many theriomorphic and anthropomorphic designs.
A young man can be motivated to receive a tattoo for a variety of reasons. To
many it is a sign that they are grown up and proof that they have bravely faced
the painful process. The designs themselves are often aesthetically pleasing
and therefore some men may be prompted by vanity. Others may be especially
attracted by the thought that the tattoos will increase their power and charm.
Many boys receive an extra incentive when they discuss tattoos with their
comrades; they do not wish to be outdone in courage by their age-mates.
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When a young man has decided upon a certain achan sak, he must approach
this ritual specialist with proper deference in order to make an appointment for
the first session of tattooing. Often the achan sak will decide that a Tuesday or
a Saturday is the most appropriate because, as mentioned before, reputedly on
such days of the week the ‘spirits are strong’. On the appointed day, the young
man must come to the house of the tattooist, carrying a candle, some flowers
and the fee. Payment for these types of magical services should traditionally be
connected with the number six. Older people remember the days when they
used to pay six salueng, which is equivalent to 1½ baht, but nowadays the fee
is often six baht or a multiple of that amount. The young boy should kneel
down with his face towards the east, light the candle and incense and offer
them together with the flowers to the ‘teachers’, to those who in the dim past
handed down the knowledge of tattooing. This ceremony is called wai khru
(ไหว้ครู), and is presided by the acan sak. It is a common ritual also among Thai
actors, dancers, musicians and boxers.13
After the wai khru, when respect has been paid to the original possessors
of the knowledge used, the achan sak begins to make the tattoo. He employs
a wooden shaft with a sharp metal tip that can contain a small quantity of ink.
The tattooist guides the instrument over thumb and index finger of the left
hand on to the skin of the young man, making rhythmical, powerful strokes
in order to pierce the skin, pausing often to refill with ink. The person who
undergoes this treatment should not cry out in pain, lest he be the laughing-
stock of all who have suffered stoically. One design, covering maybe twelve
square inches of skin, is usually sufficient for the first session; if the man still
wishes to receive other designs he should wait a few days until the swelling of
the recently tattooed skin subsides a little.
While he is being tattooed, a man is sometimes advised to repeat a short
Pali spell such as: ‘ehi ehi sammā’, which can be translated as: ‘O come, come
properly’. It is likely that such formulae are meant to make the recipient open
to receive magical qualities which go together with the designs. The achan sak
himself continuously murmurs formulae. After finishing a design, the tattooist
says a final spell while rubbing his fingers in the mixture of blood and ink that
wells up from the recently tattooed skin and terminates the session by blowing
with all his might upon the design.
13 For details of elaborate wai khru rituals, see Dhanit Yupho: ‘The Custom and Rite of
Paying Homage to Teachers of Khon, Lakhon and Piphat’, Thai Culture, New Series, No.
11, 1970. For Thai boxing wai khru, see C. Yanawimut, หลักวิชามวยไทย [The theory of Thai
Boxing] 1966, pp. 19–23.
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Figure 4.4: The tattooist makes powerful strokes to pierce the skin.
After a man has received as many tattoos as he wishes, a process that may
last several weeks (because of the intermittent periods without tattooing),
he still must undergo an effecting or charging-up ritual. This ceremony is
generally known as yok khru (ยกครู), literally: ‘to raise the teacher’. Not only
newly tattooed men, but all those who feel in need to boost the powers that
they believe to be inherent in their tattoos may join in. This ritual may take
place in a monastery, near a Buddha image; it may even be staged in its most
sacred place: on the monks’ raised dais in the bot. During one such ceremony
the platform was made attractive to the non-human powers by the offering of
appropriate foods: a pig’s head, eggs, sweetmeats, candles, incense and flowers.
First the powers have been invoked and then the achan sak will perfunctorily
pierce the skin on top of the skull of each of his clients several times with his
tattooing needle, thus effectuating all his clients’ tattoos.
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From this moment onwards, the tattoos are empowered: their strength
resides in the body. The tattooed person should observe some taboos to
preserve these powers intact. In no circumstances should a man who has been
tattooed be in an inferior position to a woman during copulation lest he lose
all the magical qualities of his tattoos. Another prescription often given to a
recently tattooed man is that he should be aware and attentive when relieving
the body so as not to let any of his magical power escape. In both these rules of
behaviour a common theme can be discerned: a man is considered vulnerable
during the moments that material, be it semen, faeces or urine, leaves the body.
In addition, many tattooists will prescribe that a man refrain from eating
certain food. In the region around Wat Sanchao, the tattooed men were
usually advised to keep away from the mafueang fruit. This is the fruit of the
Averrhoa aarambola, also known as cucumber tree (มะเฟือง).14 Informants were
unclear as to why this particular fruit is forbidden to tattooed men. A possible
explanation could be that the fruit is also known as sida, the name of the heroine
of the Ramayana. This association with so feminine a name may be a reason for
prescribing to men who are filled with sacred power that they should refrain
from eating this fruit.
Apart from advising his clients to refrain from acts which will cause the
recently acquired powers to dwindle, the achan sak reveals to the men how
they can induce the latent powers to rise. The recently tattooed men receive
spells, khatha, to arouse the dormant forces.
In order to show that the body has now been properly tattooed, the achan
sak may, after the yok khru ceremony, test the men’s invulnerability. He will
order one or more of the recently tattooed men to lie down, facing the floor.
The achan sak will brandish a bamboo knife and show the bystanders how
sharp the point is. After saying a formula over a tattooed area of skin on the
back of the person lying on the floor, he will suddenly forcefully stab the knife
into that area. Afterwards, invariably the point of the knife can be shown to
have broken off and, when examined, the skin proves to have remained intact.
It is difficult to say for certain how the tattooist ascertains that he does not
accidentally pierce the skin; it is quite possible that he himself breaks the point
of the knife immediately before thrusting it upon the back of his client.15 After
having thus proved that the powers work, the tattooist urges his clients to use
their powers only when in dire need. The forces are not to be abused.
14 G. B. McFarland, Thai-English Dictionary, 1954, p. 637.
15 When the author was subjected to this treatment he could hardly feel the impact of the
knife.
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The chest and upper arms can be used for strings of sacred syllables,
sometimes decorated with unalom (อุณาโลม). The unalom is a conically shaped
figure often placed above or around a design in order to draw attention to its
importance. In Buddhist texts the uṇṇā is one of the 32 signs of a great man that
were also present on the Buddha: it is a small tuft of hair between the eyebrows.16
This conical symbol has been traced by Jan Boeles to a representation of the
Vedic magic syllable Oṃ.17 The chest and upper arms can also be decorated
with some esteemed anthropomorphic or theriomorphic designs. This is the
region of the body where the heroes of the Ramayana are depicted: Rama,
his twin sons Kuśa and Lava (known to the Thais as But and Lop), Aṅgada
and especially Hanuman (Fig. 4.5, b), each holding one or more appropriate
weapons. On these areas of the body an achan sak may tattoo a strong and
valiant animal: the garuḍa (ครุฑ), the haṃsa, the lion, the tiger, or the panther.
When a human or animal motif is tattooed on the body, the achan sak usually
surrounds the picture by secondary motifs, small mystical diagrams, and single
Khom letters, often crowned with unalom.
The lower part of the arms, from elbow to wrist, can be used for miscellane-
ous designs. Some men carry there the marks they received when they were dek
wat, others have placed just above the wrist the number of the regiment they
served when conscripted into the army. A design once found on the lower arm
is the picture of the garuḍa fighting a snake. This latter theme is well known in
ancient India; it probably arrived in Thailand with the Ramayana in which the
battle between birds and serpents also features. Other designs that are suited
for the lower arm are a lizard with two tails, or a dove holding the top of an
unalom in its beak (Fig. 4.5, c). The knuckles of the hands may each receive a
single syllable.
High on the thigh near the hip joint a man may receive a picture of the ling
lom (ลิงลม), the slow loris, also known as the wind monkey (Fig. 4.5, d). It is a
small, tailless nocturnal animal which, according to a popular belief, exercises
some influence over the wind.18 On the right thigh the monkey is depicted
within a circle, on all fours. This is the usual shape of this design. In the more
rare case that somebody obtains a decoration on the left thigh as well, the ling
lom stands free, on its hind legs, not surrounded by a circular border. When
Textor described the more common form of this tattoo he tried to explain the
circle around the monkey as follows:
16 See The Pali Text Society’s Pali-English Dictionary, 1966, p. 130.
17 J. J. Boeles, ‘The Migration of the Magic Syllable Oṃ’, India Antiqua, 1947, pp. 40–56.
18 G. B. McFarland, Thai-English Dictionary, p. 745.
83
The reason for the circular border, which is otherwise not common, is
conceivably that ling lom in fast speech sounds somewhat like ling klom, that
is, ‘round monkey’ or, by extension, ‘monkey in a circle’. My guess is that
tattooing artists found it difficult to represent wind, and so settled on the
circle instead.19
This is an ingenious train of thought, but it does not do full justice to the
complexity of the system of symbolic representations used by the tattooist.
We should note that usually a line of letters is tattooed above the back of the
monkey as well as below the feet of the animal, usually a series of letters is
tattooed. One professional tattooist explained that one of the lines represents
water and the other line of symbols stands for fire.20 If it is realized that the word
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Figure 4.7: The back offers space for spells in the Khom script . . .
ling lom means literally ‘wind-monkey’, it is apparent that the circle around the
monkey, the water and the fire, represents the fourth element of the universe:
earth.
Lower still on the body, between the hips and the knees, miscellaneous
tattooing of a less esteemed, sometimes outright dangerous kind can be made.
This is the region of the body where a picture of a naked woman with an exag-
gerated vulva can be worn. This type of tattooing is considered very powerful
and dangerous. It is usually reserved for those who have strong reason to wish
to wield aggressive magical power. A professional tattooist can receive such
a tattoo from his own teacher, or he may tattoo it on his own thigh. Another
aggressive type of tattooing sometimes found on the upper leg is the phallus,
depicted with an unalom as if it were emitting semen. On the lower part of the
legs, very little tattooing is found. A single dot or a few unadorned syllables on
85
the ankles sometimes suffice to protect a man against snake bites, but usually
the tattooing needle does not come so low on the body.
The distribution of tattoos on a man’s body reveals some aspects of the
magical evaluation of the different parts of the human body. From the waist
upwards, the more important parts of the body are crowned by the head. Lower
down, where the excretory body apertures are situated, is a magically dangerous
area. Further down, man’s lesser parts begin, ending in the least respected
and magically almost ignored members: the feet. The lower arms and hands
constitute a rather ambiguous area of the body: farmers’ hands are active in
many respects and are engaged in activities that range from direct contact with
dirt to handling sacred books.
86
In the remote rural regions many men still consider it a privilege to be able
to obtain magical powers from an achan sak. A major factor that sustains belief
in the tattoos is the occasional occurrence of a case that ‘proves’ their powers. If
a man is savagely attacked and escapes unscathed, or if he is involved in a major
traffic accident and receives little or no injury, his good fortune is often ascribed
to magical power. If he was wearing a strong amulet, he may well believe that
this protected him; if he is of the opinion that his tattoos have saved him, he
will be happy to proclaim their proven value. Events that do not corroborate
the current beliefs in the protective quality of the magical designs and amulets
may be explained by surmising that there was some overruling factor: a man
may have lost the protective powers by not behaving in the manner his achan
sak prescribed, he may not have ‘awakened’ the dormant forces with the proper
khatha, or, if no direct explanation comes forth, the man may have possessed
an extraordinarily great amount of bad karma.
In the late 1960s it was is common for a Thai woman to wear a small
ornament on a necklace and sometimes these ornaments may appear very
similar to the amulets worn by men. Among these objects are Buddha images
of miniature size, sometimes as small as one centimetre in height. Another
ornament often worn is the image of Nang Kwak (นางกวัก), the depiction of
a woman who beckons with her hand. The miniature Buddha images and
Nang Kwak are believed to bring luck, the latter especially during financial
transactions. These objects worn by women are regarded by many men as
second-rate in comparison with ‘proper’ amulets. Although they may be
luck-bringing, they are not filled with magical power bestowed by an official
sacralization process.
Women are excluded from wearing ‘proper’ amulets and it will be hard for
a woman to find a tattooist who would be willing to invests her with magical
tattoos. The most obvious reason for this almost total exclusion from this
aspect of religious life lies in the fact that women are considered antithetic to
many kinds of magical power from time to time because they exude dangerous
power every month during menstruation. Menstrual blood is seen as polluting
and diametrically opposed to beneficial power. All substances that may come
into contact with menstrual blood are thus suspect and therefore a man should
take care to keep the tattoos of the upper part of his body and his amulets that
are charged with beneficial power away from the lower part of a woman’s body
and her lower garments.
In this light the newspaper report about a non-Thai woman who ‘. . . caused
a major furore by hanging her underwear on the rails in the bathroom above
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the heads of any men who might enter the room’21 should be now be clear.
This also explains why a woman should not possess an object charged with
protective power; inadvertently she is likely to spoil its magical value.
There are other dangerously powerful, often polluting substances in the
environment. Excreta from humans and from animals are polluted per se, and
by extension the soil around a house and those creatures that devour excrement
are to be avoided. The feet, which at least in traditional farmers’ lives frequently
come into contact with dirt, are therefore often associated with contamination.
Outside every house, at the foot of the ladder leading up to the living area, a big
water vessel filled with river water provides the means with which people who
arrive barefoot can rinse their feet. In this context it is relevant to note also that
before entering the Thais do not rub their feet clean with the hands. The usual
method of cleansing consists of pouring some water on the feet from a ladle,
while skilfully rubbing one foot with the other.
Another major source of pollution and dangerous magical substances is de-
rived from corpses, especially from the bodies of people who have died violently
and whose spirits may be expected to be enraged. A ritual specialist may use
a corpse of a human who has died inauspiciously to extract some fluid, called
namman phrai (น้�ำ มันพราย) with which very aggressive magical practices can be
undertaken.22 Some tattooists who specialize in powerful, aggressive designs re-
89
putedly mix a small quantity of namman phrai with their ink in order to increase
the dangerous power of their tattoos.
91
T he F i r st P er i o d i n the Sa n g ha
92
*Note: Credner’s statements are not linked to a specific date; it is deduced from the context
that the figure given is for 1929 (Credner, op. cit., p. 199 and p. 341).
93
from 1964 and continued to 1975. It is likely that the sudden increase in the
number of monks is related to the post-war population ‘explosion’ nineteen
years earlier.
However, it may be noted, with the figures of Table 4 in mind, that the relative
number of monks is decreasing for the whole of Thailand, the information
is not as straightforward as it may seem. In the first place it must be borne in
mind that the figures are taken in the middle of the rainy season, the months
of religious intensity. Outside this period of the year the number of monks in
Thailand is much smaller. Secondly, the figures on the number of monks give no
information on the turnover that takes place every year. Before these statistics can
tell anything about the degree and type of decrease of the monastic institution
it is necessary to assess the average length of time that a monk remains in the
order. Unfortunately, only for 1970 is such information available.4 In that year
approximately 24 per cent of all monks in Thailand had been ordained recently.
Without similar information over a large number of years it is impossible to
determine the character of the apparent relative decrease.
When the genealogies of the people who live near Wat Sanchao were being
collected, among the questions asked of males were: ‘has this man once been
a monk?’ ‘in what monastery (or monasteries)?’, and ‘for how long?’ This
information was obtained for 495 males; it included men born in communities
other than Wat Sanchao but related to Wat Sanchao people through marriage.
It went back several generations, as far back in history as people could recollect
with certainty. Table 5 shows the results of these enquiries.
Under the category ‘Ordained in other monasteries’ two different types
of persons can be distinguished. On the one hand there are households that,
although situated near Wat Sanchao, send a young man elsewhere to be a
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96
shares his experiences with some of his comrades, but also he would risk – if
he were to refuse to become a phiksu – becoming an outsider in his age-group.
Within the community, a person who has never been a monk is regarded as a
non-adult. He is a khon dip (คนดิบ), an unripe person. Such a man can more
easily be called by his nickname without much consideration of his age.
During ceremonies where monks and laymen come together there is usually
a moment in which one of the laymen will have to ask in the Pali language for
the Five Precepts.6 Every man should be able to lead the lay community during
this part of the ceremony. Those who have not been monks, and consequently
cannot lead the lay community in chanting in Pali, may be teased about their lack
of knowledge. Outside pressure is therefore certainly a factor to be considered
when answering the question of why a young man decides to become a monk.
However, it is a mild pressure, and there is no constant harassing, no barring from
communal pleasures. Those who are well over 30 years of age and still have not
been monks will, when asked, readily admit that they have thus far missed the
opportunity, but they do not walk about dejectedly as if ashamed of themselves.
While the fact that becoming a monk is an accepted social custom may
assist some men in deciding to join the Sangha, considerations of a more
private nature may be relevant as well. Credner, observing the Thais in the
1920s, wrote about the personal motivation of those who become monks in
words that can be translated as follows:
Behind the monastic institution of Buddhism hides certainly much laziness
and a pleasure in having an idle life, but also can one find much serious piety
and a striving for spiritual completeness.7
However, these extremes have little or no relevance for the rural scene. The
man who wishes to be idle and enjoy an existence without work should not,
like most candidates, join the Sangha just before the beginning of Buddhist
Lent; he would be bitterly disappointed by the regime of chanting, studying,
and meditating many hours per day. On the other hand, piety and a striving for
spiritual completeness are very rarely thought about by young aspirant monks.
Such thoughts may be relevant for some of the older men who join the Sangha
at the stage when their lives are coming to a close.
A young man may be personally motivated in a variety of ways that often
having little religious significance. He may, for example, wish to avoid being
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conscripted into military service, and if he studies hard and passes his religious
state examinations, he may succeed in doing so. Other reasons, so well known
that the Thais sometimes enumerate them in a little rhyme, are:
buat kae bon (บวชแก่บน) (ordination to fulfil a promise)
buat kae chon (บวชแก่จน) (ordination to escape poverty)
buat ni mia (บวชหนีเมีย) (ordination to flee from a wife)
buat ni thuk (บวชหนีทุกข์) (ordination flee from sorrow)
buat ha khong kin (บวชหาของกิน) (ordination to eat [good] food)
buat ha phuean (บวชหาเพึ่อน) (ordination to join one’s friends)
buat duai sathan (บวชด้วยสถาน) (ordination out of respect)
The seventh reason, ‘out of respect’ is the most proper one. Another acclaimed
reason a young man can give for deciding to join the Sangha is that he wants to
learn. For this reason the first ordination of a man can be called buat rian (บวช
เรียน) as Sitsayamkan pointed out, ‘ordination in order to gain knowledge’.8
In order to distinguish between young men who join the Sangha at the
age of twenty usually for a period of just over three months, and monks
who remain phiksu for many years, several authors classify the monks under
the headings ‘temporary monks’ and ‘permanent’ or ‘career’ monks.9 There
are some drawbacks to this categorization. In the first place, the temporary
nature of a young monk’s residence can only be judged in retrospect. There
are ordained persons who originally planned to leave the order at the end of
Lent but who decided to remain phiksu. Every year there are young monks
who appear to be suited to their role and who are urged to stay on for at least
another year. In the second place, the permanence of the monks who remain
members of the Sangha for a period longer than one Lenten period is no
matter of certainty either. Every monk in the country can decide to return to
the status of layman; no stigma attaches to him who acts thus and no monk or
layman should reproach him for doing so. Once, during World War II and just
months before the Lenten period, the abbot of Wat Sanchao himself decided
to leave the order. Notwithstanding the fact that this decision severely upset
the organization of the monastery, it was never publicly criticized.
Moreover, the Thais themselves do not divide their monks into groups that
can be recognized as ‘temporary’ and ‘permanent’. The distinctions between
8 Luang Sitsayamkan, Some Useful Information on the Buddhist Religion as it is Taught and
Practised in Thailand, 1963, p. 6.
9 Kaufman, Bangkhuad, p. 107 ff; J. A. N. Mulder, Monks, Merit, and Motivation, 1973, pp.
9–11; J. Bunnag, Buddhist Monk, Buddhist Layman, 1973, pp. 36–7.
98
Figure 5.1: The night before ordination an elaborate tham khwan is held.
monks who probably will serve for one Lenten season and those who have been
in the order for years may be subsumed in a hierarchical scheme. Two principles
can be distinguished in this hierarchy: seniority and rank. According to the rule
of seniority, a monk who has joined the Sangha at an earlier date than another
monk is the senior of the two. An interruption is considered to erase the status:
when a man joins the order for a second time he again begins at the lowest level.
The ranking principle often overrules seniority: an abbot takes precedence over
a monk who has spent a greater number of seasons in the order.
The difference between monks joining the order probably for one Lenten
season and those who remain for longer periods is therefore not adequately
described under rubrics such as ‘temporary’ and ‘permanent’, but it is designated
better by the terms ‘inexperienced’ and ‘experienced’. When the inexperienced
monk lives one phansa (พรรษา),10 one Lenten season, in a monastery he is
10 Like many Thai religious words, phansa is probably derived from the Sanskrit varṣa,
rather than the Pali word vassa. The Lenten period lasts from mid-July until mid-October.
99
Figure 5.2: The ordination procession to the bot is led by music and dance.
Figure 5.3: Young women carry the gifts for the new monk and the Sangha.
101
Figure 5.4: Sometimes the candidate rides a horse, reminding us of the way that
Siddhartha Gautama left his palace.
sacred precinct. He is also instructed in the daily routine of the monks, and
thus it is expected of him that he joins the morning round collecting food as
a servant to the phiksu. Doing this not only serves to familiarize him with the
etiquette surrounding the ritual reception of food items but also introduces him
to a large number of households as a person who is preparing for ordination.
The most important task of the aspirant monk consists of the preparation for
the ordination ceremony. The text of the ordination is found in the booklet
Suatmon Chet Tamnan,12 the standard handbook for all inexperienced monks.
The whole ordination text is learned by rote: each sentence is repeated aloud in
some quiet corner by the aspirant monk until he can recite it without looking
at the pages. The whole text is in the Pali language, so that most words are
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unintelligible to the average candidate. Near the end of his preparation time
an experienced monk will go through the whole ordination text with him and
elaborate instructions are given regarding the sequence of actions that take
place during ordination.
When the time of the ordination arrives, the aspirant monk is usually very
nervous and is likely to make mistakes in the recitation or to forget the text
altogether. If this occurs, the ordainer will prompt him with the appropriate
key word until the text comes back to mind. If he still cannot recollect the right
words he will be guided all the way, word for word. This prompting does not
invalidate the ceremony; the important aspect of the ritual is that the words
have to be said by the aspirant monk. The prompting, if it occurs, may give rise
to a little ridicule from the spectators: superior smiles from those men who
performed better at the time when they were ordained, compassion from those
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who met with the same difficulties. As soon as the ceremony is over, the text
for the ordination can be forgotten.13
Immediately after the ordination, the new monk is made aware of his ex-
alted ritual position by the use of special words that are reserved for activities
of monks. While laymen can speak of themselves eating, drinking, sleeping
and relieving themselves, a member of the Sangha must use special sacerdotal
language to designate these activities when they are related to himself or an-
other member of the Sangha.
13 The best sources in the English language for the procedure of the Thai ordination are still
K. E. Wells, Thai Buddhism, Its Rites and Activities, 1960, Chapter V, and H.R.H. Prince
Vajirañāṇavarorasa, Ordination Procedure, 1966, pp. 20–45. The rural ordination is best
appreciated in Worakawintho’s poem, translated into English by T. H. Silcock, published
as A Village Ordination, 1976.
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l Chanting
The Suatmon Chet Tamnan, the regular handbook for inexperienced monks,
contains many of the Pali texts that are often chanted by the monks. They are
a mixture of passages from the canon and short verses composed in later times
by famous monks. There are chants for early in the morning and for late in
the afternoon, chants for auspicious occasions, hymns with deep philosophical
105
106
16 S. J. Tambiah, Buddhism and the Spirit Cults in North-East Thailand, 1970, pp. 201–6.
107
On any ordinary day during the Lenten period, the total time spent by the
monks in communal chanting without a lay audience varies possibly from two
to four hours. During the chanting sessions of a rural monastery, the abbot
seldom varies the first and last text. In addition, during the periods of communal
recitation the abbot gradually works through the various texts that can be used
on special occasions, such as funerals or housewarmings. Both types of texts
occur in the Suatmon Chet Tamnan.17 Usually the abbot chooses from the texts
those which the monks have not chanted recently and each section of common
chanting will be recited in unison at least once a week. Often it will take a monk
two Lenten seasons before he masters all major texts; it is only the exceptional
individual who commits them all to memory during his first year in the Sangha.
Most monks end their first Lenten period being capable of reciting only the
texts that are used every day.
Even the most experienced monks find it difficult to chant individually.
During the recitations in unison with others each individual can rely on the
17 In this respect, Tambiah appears to have been misinformed when he writes: ‘The tham
watr are not memorized from printed texts’ (Buddhism and the Spirit Cults in North-East
Thailand, p. 123). These collections of chants appear in Suatmon Chet Tamnan, pp. 63–73.
108
memory of those around him. The drone of many voices is slightly soporific
and the experienced monk often chants in a completely relaxed manner.
If, however, asked to chant alone, a monk may find that even an ‘easy text’
suddenly becomes difficult. When chanting alone a monk is suddenly forced
to remember sequences of words that he normally produces automatically in
unison with others.
l Monastic Behaviour
In theory, every monk should follow the rules of behaviour as they are laid
down in the Vinaya Piṭaka. These rules consist of the 227 that can be found in
the famous formulary Pāṭimokkha, as well as the many additional guidelines
which are known as thūlaccaya (serious transgressions) and the dukkhaṭā
(ill deeds). These additional guidelines consist of many rules that came into
existence after the final redaction of the Pāṭimokkha had been accepted.18
When a young man is accepted in the order he cannot be expected to
appreciate the intricacies of all these different rules. Some of the older experi-
enced monks who have never had the opportunity to study for the religious
state examinations have only a vague idea of the wording of most rules. Still,
they can behave in an exemplary manner, and function as experienced monks
in the community, regardless of the fact that they cannot recite the Pāṭimokkha,
or quote any other text on behaviour.
If such a venerable experienced monk, who is not schooled according to the
new curriculum, instructs a recently ordained inexperienced monk on the rules
of behaviour he will undoubtedly begin by stating that the most important rules
are the four pārājikā precepts. These are cardinal rules that a monk cannot break
without automatically losing membership in the order. There are other classes
of rules, but for the exact number and wording he might have to look up in an
appropriate manual. The four pārājikā rules of the Pāṭimokkha are the only rules
on which even the oldest monks can discourse at length.
When these four rules are mentioned in the literature on Thai Buddhism,
they have sometimes been paraphrased rather carelessly. Kaufman, for example,
translates them as follows: ‘1) Do not kill any human creature; 2) Do not steal;
3) Refrain from all sexual activities; 4) Do not tell lies’.19 The Thai monks word
these four rules in a much more specific manner, thereby closely guided by the
Pali text. Their version usually corresponds with something like:
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All Thai informants to whom I translated this passage were convinced of the
fact that this cannot represent the truth. It is possible that Kaufman meant
something much more specific when he broached the subject of homosexuality
that his informants when they answered his queries. It is not unknown, and
indeed a subject that can be openly discussed, that young monks develop strong
attachments among each other. However, it remains most doubtful that the
two informants of Bangkhuad referred to activities that would automatically
result in expulsion from the Sangha. In the region of Wat Sanchao all monks
were aware of the fact that ejection of semen with assistance of a living being,
be it female, male, or animal, would mean that a pārājikā rule had been broken.
20 The māsaka is a small coin of very low value of ancient times. It is not known in Thailand.
Modern Thai exegesis takes five māsaka to be approximately equivalent to one baht.
21 Kaufman, Bangkhuad, p. 136.
110
All other types of sexual contact, not resulting in emission of semen, fall under
less important categories.
A parallel case may possibly be the one reported by Welch for Chinese
Buddhist monasteries. One of Welch’s informants stated that a great deal of
homosexual practices went on in monasteries. When pressed for details it be-
came clear that there was no evidence of physical consummation.22 It seems
likely that Kaufman’s informants referred to similar emotional attachments.
In this context it is relevant that two monks walking while holding hands, or
with their arms around one another’s shoulders, may not be regarded as evi-
dence for homosexual behaviour. In Thailand these are regarded as a normal
friendly gestures that do not necessarily have connotations of aberrant sexual
inclinations.
Most of the older monks who never followed official religious instruction
cannot give the wording of any rules other than the pārājikā section of the
Pāṭimokkha. However, if they are not aware of the letter of the remaining
precepts, the meaning of proper monastic behaviour is clear to all. A monk
should be aware of his thoughts and actions at all times. He should behave in a
subdued, friendly, and calm manner. He should never allow himself to become
excited, argumentative, angry, or rude, and therefore he should avoid running,
jumping, or dancing. A monk should not gamble or drink alcoholic beverages.
Instead he should always be polite, sober, clean, and unselfish.
When a monk sits, his limbs should be arranged in a proper manner; when
he walks his arms should not swing about: a phiksu should continuously be
aware of the proper position of his robes. It follows that a monk can laugh, but
not unrestrainedly, can join in conversation with laymen, but does not gossip.
A monk may look at a football game, but does not cheer, let alone take part; he
may bathe in the river, but is not allowed to swim for pleasure or splash with
water. When a monk eats he should show no greed, he ought not to even indicate
that he is hungry. Instead he should eat slowly and casually as if unaware of the
quality of the food.
Some of the restrictions regarding the consumption of food will be known
to the newly ordained monk who once served as dek wat. Thus he is aware
of the fact that he may only consume food that has been ceremoniously
presented by a lay person (prakhen, described in Chapter III). After midday
no solid food may be taken unless a monk is ill and the return of his health
depends on breaking the daily fast. A phiksu may eat only in the time between
111
sunrise and noon. This fasting does not appear injurious; many of the monks
appear well-fed; there are even some quite obese members of the Sangha.
While laymen generally appreciate the thought of an ascetic monk, at the same
time they do not object to corpulent monks, probably because the latter are
the living proof of the generosity of the sustaining population. Usually the
monks eat communally, and table manners are strict. However, the amount
of food is ample and the abbot grants his monks sufficient time to satisfy the
appetite. During the afternoon and evening the monks may drink tea, coffee,
or lemonade, chew betel leaf with areca fruit and lime, and smoke tobacco.
Some monks may drink coffee mixed with condensed milk, or take a glass
of Ovomaltine, but others will refrain from using milk products during the
periods of fast (some avoid milk products altogether).
One of the most important areas of controlled behaviour centres around the
avoidance of contact with females. No monk should touch a woman, a female
animal or even an object that is being held by a woman. Even if the mother or
the grandmother of a monk wishes to present him with some medicine or some
food, the object cannot be transferred directly from her hand to his. The monk
in question will have to produce a piece of cloth, which he rolls or spreads on a
surface before him. The woman can place the gift on this cloth while the monk
holds on to an edge of the material. A woman is not allowed to speak with a
monk in private: all verbal contact should take place within earshot of at least
a third person. The recently ordained monk has to be instructed to be alert
in public places lest he inadvertently bumps into a woman. At the same time,
if a woman notices a phiksu in his yellow robes, she should move out of his
path. In public transport, monks are given seats where they cannot accidentally
come into physical contact with women. Before stroking a dog or cat the monk
should ascertain that the animal is male.
Many of these rules of behaviour are closely related to the ideas on the
monks’ sanctity current among the rural population. The traditional knowledge
of the rules can in general be described under two rubrics: activities that are
prescribed and those that are forbidden. In the view of the Wat Sanchao people
the monks’ prescriptions are intended to increase their beneficial power, while
the prohibitions are there to prevent the loss of this sacred protective force.
The principles of this magico-animism can be illustrated by analysing the
ritual act that takes place when a woman presents a gift to a monk, described
immediately above. In the first place, it can be seen that some type of contact,
even if it be indirect, is deemed necessary during the ritual presentation. This
continuity is needed to make it possible that some reward reaches the donor
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l Formulae
Twice a month, on the last day of the waxing moon and the waning moon
respectively, one of the experienced monks, usually the abbot, has to recite the
whole text of the Pāṭimokkha for the congregation of monks. This recitation
is in the Pali language, and may last for as long as three quarters of an hour. In
rural areas, where outside the Lenten season an abbot may not be assured of a
quorum of four monks, this solemn recitation takes place only during phansa.
While Tambiah was probably mistaken when he wrote that newly ordained
monks have to learn the Pāṭimokkha by heart,24 for this would be an immense
burden needlessly imposed, the inexperienced monks have to say a short for-
mula as part of the preparation for the recitation. This formula is known as
the sadaeng abat (แสดงอาบัตติ์), ‘exposing the ecclesiastical offences’, sometimes
known in the literature as the monks’ confession. The confessing phiksu ap-
proaches a monk of his own choice, squats and raises his hands palm to palm.
The confessor acknowledges the situation by taking a similar position close by
the confessing monk and by returning the hand gesture.
In theory, the Pali formula for confession should be repeated for each
category of mistakes which the monk wishes to expose. Moreover, the exact
23 The same seems to be the case for northern Thailand. See Shigeharu Tanabe, ‘Spirits,
Power and the Discourse of Female Gender: The Phi Meng Cult of Northern Thailand’
in Manas Chitikasem and A. Turton (eds.), Thai Constructions of Knowledge, 1991, pp.
188–9.
24 Tambiah, Buddhism and the Spirit Cults, p. 122.
113
wording should vary according to whether the monk has transgressed only
once, twice or more often in the category of mistakes.25 The confession
per category of offences requires a thorough knowledge of the different
categories of ecclesiastical rules as well as a working knowledge of Pali and it is
therefore seldom used in rural areas. Instead, a single formula that covers most
transgressions is used. Accordingly Wat Sanchao it consists merely of a short
barrage of questions and answers in the Pali language.
Sadaeng abat is compulsory immediately before the recitation of the Pāṭi
mokkha, but a monk may approach a fellow phiksu for confession any other time
he wishes. Especially after the main meal, many monks may take advantage of
the proximity of a friendly fellow monk to recite the formula. In some cases
the preference for this time of the day may also be related to a wish to avoid
part of the communal task of cleaning the eating-place. The formula is easy to
remember, and one month after ordination most monks will be able to recite it
without hesitation.
In Wat Sanchao the confession is not an asking for forgiveness for specific
misdemeanours, nor is it a relieving of a mind burdened by guilt feelings;
and it may also not be regarded as a private discussion of specific breaches of
precepts, as was the case in early Buddhism.26 In rural Thailand the formula is
said in a language many monks do not understand, it is often recited within
earshot of other members of the Sangha without the slightest embarrassment,
and the ritual is regularly performed without a sign of reluctance. For these
monks the meaning of the confession is a renewal of the 227 precepts of the
phiksu; it is a ritual cleansing that has nothing to do with feelings of shame or
guilt.
Although some monks feel that the confession literally ‘washes away the
mistakes’, thus taking the idea of cleansing in its direct meaning, others are
aware of the fact that such cannot be the case. In the Theravada Buddhist
doctrine there is not such an easy way for undoing sins. The monk who has
received a certain amount of religious education should know that once a
mistake has been made it automatically produces an amount of harmful karma
and that a subsequent token of remorse will not undo the effect of an evil deed.
A future incident of bad luck is the equaliser. That is why the Thai Buddhist ‘is
not weighed down by a great burden of guilt, the latter being thought of as a
very unskilful mental attitude productive of future sufferings’.27
25 The details can be found in Vajirañāṇavarorasa, Ordination Procedure, pp. 54–62.
26 See Mahāvagga, II, 27, 1; and Cullavagga, V, 20, 5; VII, 3, 7.
27 Khantipālo Bhikkhu, Buddhism Explained, 1968, p. 33.
114
Another type of formula that a monk regularly uses falls under the category
of kruat nam (กรวดน้ำ�), literally ‘sprinkling of water’. This expression is used
both literally and metaphorically; in the latter case it refers to the generous
dispersal of good karma to beings other than oneself. It is possible that it
derives from the ancient Indian custom of satiating gods and deceased persons
by presenting libations of water: the tarpaṇa ritual.28 In early Buddhism this
developed into a dedication by pouring water, and it is mentioned as such in
the Tipitaka.29
In Thailand, the kruat nam ritual may be performed by laymen as well as
by monks, but there is a difference in the methods used. A layman who has
performed an act that carries a good deal of good karma uses a vessel that
contains some clean water. He or she pours the water over the index finger
of the right or the left hand, whilst dedicating a share of the good karma to
individuals of his or her choice. This dedication can take place in silence, by
thinking intensively of those to whom the merit is offered, but there are some
who use words in Thai or in Pali. The individuals to whom the merit is offered
may be living persons, but usually the ancestors are the recipients. This ritual
28 The Laws of Manu, Sacred Books of the East, Vol. XXV, II, 176; III, 70, 74, 81–82, 283; V,
69–70, 88–90; VI, 24.
29 Mahāvagga, I, 22, 18 and VIII, 30, 4.
115
may occur privately, for example immediately after a layman has placed food in
a monk’s begging bowl, or it may occur publicly, for example after performing
a ceremony in the bot. When monks are presiding at a public ceremony, the
kruat nam of the laymen takes place whilst the monks chant their concluding
blessing.
Members of the Sangha are continually performing deeds that carry good
karma and it is considered proper that they transfer a share to the secular world.
However, the monks do not kruat nam in public, and when they transfer merit
they do not pour water. Their kruat nam is communal and is accompanied by
words. Every day, after the late afternoon chanting and meditation session, the
abbot guides his monks into the recitation of one of the texts for transferring
merit. The most common Pali chants for kruat nam are given on pages 74 and
75 of the Suatmon Chet Tamnan. After the joint recitation of such a text, a short
period of silence is observed, during which the monks think of those on whom
they wish merit bestowed. It is interesting to note that the official Pali words
indicate that they give merit to all beings, to the world in general. During their
moment of silence, however, most think intensely of their benefactors, their
parents, the people who sustain them, and their ancestors.
Many formulae of the monks are not found in textbooks. They are passed
on in an oral tradition. Most inexperienced monks of Wat Sanchao keep a
notebook in which they write down useful formulae. Experienced monks may
instruct them to say certain auspicious syllables when cleaning and rubbing
the begging bowl – this will have the effect of inducing laymen to be generous
when ladling out food. Another spell is used by a monk when pinning an amulet
to his robes, so that he will be protected from accidents whilst travelling. The
rules forbid a monk to adorn himself and therefore he cannot wear a string of
amulets as laymen can. Many monks pin their favourite amulet on the inside of
their robes, out of sight.
A widely used formula consists of a few syllables muttered over the first
spoonful of rice in the morning. It reputedly ensures that the food will strengthen
and embellish the consumer. The private notebooks of the recently ordained
monks also contain various formulae that they may need later after leaving the
order. There are spells that reputedly will stop a bullet from injuring, others
will make a knife miss, and some cause a person to be invulnerable to clubs and
sticks. Each formula is commonly accompanied by instructions for its use, for
example, whilst uttering a certain spell a particular yan ought to be drawn.
Some of the most common spells consist of syllables, arranged in a seem-
ingly haphazard manner:
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‘i ka vi ti’
‘i svā su’
‘pā su u jā’
‘ka ra ma tha’
‘thī ma saṃ aṃ khu ā pā ma u pa saṃ i dhā pu ka ya pa’
These collections of syllables are often transmitted from one monk to another
without mention of the meaning or origin of the particular spell. The only
information needed is its reputed effect. Such spells are thus clearly part of
an esoteric tradition. There are cases where the syllables can be traced to a
Pali text. For example, the syllables ‘i svā su’ can be traced to the words itipiso,
svākkhāto and supattipanno that are prominent words in one of the best-known
Pali texts.30 In a similar manner, ‘bā mā nā u ka sa na du’ is related to another
famous chant which can be found in the booklet Suatmon Chet Tamnan. The
four syllables ‘na ma ba da’ reputedly epitomize the four elements: earth,
water, fire and wind, but the reason for this particular choice of syllables is
not clear. It therefore appears that the seemingly unrelated syllables often
represent abbreviations of more complex words and ideas. They can be seen
as an extreme example of abbreviation of canonical passages common in some
Indian schools of thought. Thus many of these spells may be related to the
Indian mantra, the paritta, the dhāraṇī, the yamala and the kavaca.31
l Preaching
On every wan phra during the Lenten season it is customary to hold two
preaching sessions. Traditionally, the abbot gave the sermons himself, or he
appointed an experienced monk to preach. The monk who gave the sermon
had time to select a text inscribed on palm leaf from the ornamental bookcase
in the bot, and to familiarize himself with the inscriptions. The texts on palm
leaf were written or sometimes printed in the Khom alphabet and it required
much preparation before the text could be read with ease. Moreover, the monk
was expected to chant the sermon, something that required extra practice.
Thus it was only a very experienced monk who traditionally preached for
his fellow-monksand the lay congregation. The lay supporters and the monks
were fully aware of the difficulties involved in the reading from palm leaves,
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and realized the exalted nature of the texts, which often consisted solely of Pali
sentences. It is only since the 1850’s that Thai words have been introduced in
sermons. The lay people attending a sermon would each light a candle and
some incense, so that the monk would be provided with sufficient light and be
enveloped in a pleasant fragrance. All monks and laymen present lifted their
hands palm to palm for as long as the preaching lasted. The meaning of the text
read was often beyond the understanding of most of the audience, and could
even be unintelligible to the preacher himself. The main task of the monk in
the preaching chair was to transform the sacred words on the palm leaves into
sound. The best preachers chanted the words in an even pitch, varying the tone
only in the last syllables of a stanza.
Nowadays the sermon is a slightly different affair. Since 1940 the government
has stopped printing and distributing sermons in Khom script, and instead uses
palm leaf texts in Thai writing.32 The Pali content has been greatly reduced.
Even the sermons that deal with philosophical concepts consist usually of a
single Pali sentence that in the remainder of the text is explained and elaborated
upon in the Thai language. Many sermons contain subjects of general interest,
dealing with mythological stories or episodes from the Jātakas. At present,
most inexperienced monks have little difficulty in reading these palm leaves
fluently, and with the proper intonation. Experienced monks have thus lost
their former advantage, when they were the sole persons able to decipher the
sermons.
While the first sermon of wan phra, which is held during the morning,
is still reserved for the experienced monks of the monastery, the abbot may
ask one of the recently ordained monks to preach the second one, at night.
The relatives of the inexperienced monk who preaches will not fail to attend,
and will proudly witness how the sacred message is read by the young man
who only a short while ago was a common layman. The parents of the newly
ordained monk may even invite their son to preach in his ancestral home, so
that they will be able to show relatives and neighbours, as well as the ancestors,
to what height of scholarship their son has risen.
l Meditation
One of the skills, intimately linked with beneficial magical power, which greatly
increases the store of merit and which carries great prestige is the concentration
32 Further details about Thai palm leaf manuscripts can be found in C. Velder, ‘Die Palm
blatt-Manuscriptkultur Thailands’, Nachrichten der Gesellschaft für Natur- und Völkerkunde
Ostasiens, Vol. 89/90, pp. 110–4.
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119
remaining fully alert. The inexperienced monks may find it difficult to relax
and at the same time remain concentrated. After a few minutes some usually
cannot remain quiet; they begin to fidget, look around, or feel that they should
clear the throat. These interruptions are usually soon followed by the abbot’s
announcement that the meditation is finished for the day and that the monks
may take up their praying position again for the kruat nam recitation. However,
near the end of the Lenten season, when all monks have been members of the
Sangha for at least several months, the communal meditation sessions can be
prolonged without any disturbance from the recently ordained monks.
The precepts of the monks as laid down in the Pāṭimokkha forbid any
monk to talk about extraordinary experiences during meditation. The most
severe category of rules, the pārājikā section discussed earlier in this chapter,
contains a clause that forbids a monk to lie about his magical powers. In
Thailand this rule is understood to include lies about strange experiences
while meditating. It is less generally known that a rule from the fifth category
of prescriptions, the pācittiyā, forbids monks even to tell the truth about their
magical experiences.34
Although many monks will therefore not speak about their feelings when
practising meditation, these restrictions do not apply once the monk has
become a layman again. It is commonly known, particularly among men, that
there are some people who are rewarded for their efforts by visions of colours
and unidentifiable shapes. Some report hearing extraordinary sounds. It may
safely be assumed, however, that the communal sessions are of too short a
duration to bring about such experiences, and many a monk will try to induce
them in the privacy of his cell. Times that are especially recommended for
private meditation are early in the morning, before the food collecting takes
place, and late at night, just before lying down to sleep.
34 Ñāṇamoli Thera, The Pāṭimokkha, 227 Fundamental Rules of a Bhikkhu, 1966, pp. 48–9.
This may well have been the reason for the Ayutthaya monks to reply only in very vague
terms when questioned as to the techniques used during meditation as reported by
Bunnag, op. cit., p. 54.
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itself, it also increased its involvement in Sangha affairs. One of the areas where
state involvement is most apparent is that of the nation-wide ecclesiastical
education courses.35 The government has supervised the advanced courses
since 1893, and from 1910 onward it has taken responsibility for a primary
course as well.36 At present, there are ten different levels of ecclesiastical
scholarship recognized in Thailand. In order of increasing difficulty these
levels are: Nak tham III, II and I, followed by Parien III to Parien IX. Nak tham
(นักธรรม) means ‘Skilled in the Buddhist teachings’ whilst Parien (เปรียญ) is
probably derived from the Pali pariñña, ‘knowing, recognizing, understanding’.
The Parien religious education is confined to municipal regions, but the
preparation for the Nak tham examinations lies within the scope of most rural
members of the Sangha. In most monasteries the recently ordained monks are
prepared for the Nak tham III examination by an experienced fellow monk, but
even if no classes are held in a monastery a person who wishes to qualify can
study privately from textbooks. As an illustration of how widely the Nak tham
examination is known, the figures for 1970 can be given. Of a total number
of 311,000 monks and novices who constituted the Thai Sangha in that year,
almost 123,000 sat for the easiest examination, 35,000 tried to pass Nak tham
II, and 16,000 enrolled for the examination for the highest Nak tham I degree.37
For 1975 there were 335,000 monks and novices of whom 111,000 sat for Nak
tham III, 30,000 for II and 26,000 for the highest of these three levels.38
There are several textbooks written especially for Nak tham III students,
and of these the three most important ones are:
1. The Nawakowat (นวโกวาท). The title is derived from the Pali navakovāda, or
‘Advice to the Newly Ordained Monk’. It contains a commentary on selected
parts of the Vinaya Piṭaka, with special reference to the Pāṭimokkha. The
second half of this book is devoted to Buddhist ethics. It was written by the
late Supreme Patriarch Prince Vajirañāṇavarorasa. In 1966 it was printed
for the sixty-fourth time, an issue of 100,000 copies.
2. The Phutthasasanasuphasit (พฺทธศาสนสุภาษิต), by the same author. It is a
book of 500 Buddhist proverbs in Pali and Thai, topically arranged. The
year 1968 saw its 24th printing, with 50,000 copies.
35 R-I. Heinze, The Role of the Sangha in Modern Thailand, 1977, pp. 26–35.
36 K. E. Wells, Thai Buddhism, Its Rites and Activities, 1960, pp. 14–5.
37 รายงานการศาสนาประจำ�ปี่ ๒๕๑๓ [Annual Report on Religious Affairs, 2513], p. 221.
38 รายงานการศาสนาประจำ�ปี่ ๒๕๑๘ [Annual Report on Religious Affairs, 2518], p. 32.
121
In the monasteries where the inexperienced monks are prepared for the
Nak tham III examination, lessons are held five days a week. On wan phra
and on the day before wan phra, called wan kon (วันก่อน), ‘the day before’, no
lessons are given. Most of the teaching time is devoted to the first part of the
Nawakowat, the part in which many rules of behaviour are discussed and in
which a Thai translation of most of the Pāṭimokkha is given.
By way of preparation for the lessons, the students are told to learn a certain
number of passages of the Nawakowat by heart. The teacher will explain the
exact meaning of these passages during the following lesson, and he will
instruct his pupils to memorize a few subsequent paragraphs. In this manner
the pupils work through most of the Nawakowat.
In order to depict the teaching methods of a good teacher a fictitious
example of instruction has been set up. It is based on actual experience, not
from Wat Sanchao, because no school for inexperienced monks was held there,
but from a monastery on the north bank of the river Maeklong.39
It is a day in the beginning of August, 1.30 p.m. The room commonly used
to teach Nak tham III students is occupied. The teacher sits in front of the
class at a desk, well elevated above the level of the desks of his pupils. (See
Fig. 5.8).
The teacher has just reached the fifth category of precepts in the Pāṭi
mokkha, the pācittiyā. He asks one of his students to stand up and recite the
first of the 92 pācittiyā rules. The student indicated immediately stands up
and in a glib and rapid manner recites the rule in question. For good measure
he will add several more of the rules before the teacher can stop him. After
acknowledging the student’s skill in memorizing, the teacher repeats the
first rule of the pācittiyā category, but this time slowly and deliberately:
‘An intentional lie is a pācittiyā’.
39 I am indebted to the abbot of Wat Phanoenplu for his patient instruction in the subjects
necessary to sit for the Nak tham III examination. This fictitious example is also intended
to express some of the skill and humour with which he gave his lessons.
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123
‘If a monk went around saying that during meditation he saw the god Indra
and if this statement were not true, what type of precept did the monk
break?’ The teacher chooses a rather dull student to answer him, and in the
context of the lesson the answer is likely to be:
‘Pācittiyā, sir!’
The teacher now asks the students one by one until he obtains the right
answer:
‘Lying about one’s magical accomplishments falls in a special category, the
most severe one, pārājikā, which causes expulsion from the order.’
Almost all lessons dealing with the Nawakowat proceed in the manner
indicated by this example. The lesson lasts about two hours, and at the end
of the instruction period the teacher selects a few questions from a book that
contains a great number of questions asked in previous years in the official
Nak tham III examination. He takes care to select questions that have direct
relevance to the subjects discussed during the lesson. To continue the fictitious
example, the teacher might write on the blackboard:
1. A monk writes a letter to a friend in which he tells a deliberate lie. The
letter gets lost in the mail and never reaches its destination. What precept
has the monk broken?
2. A monk is asked: ‘What time is it?’ and answers: ‘Two o’clock’ (after
having consulted the monastery clock). Later he finds out that the clock
indicated wrongly. Has this monk broken a precept, and if so, what category
of precepts?
3. The teacher of a monks’ school asks a pupil whether he has studied the
previous night. The student has not even opened his books during that
night, but nods his head affirmatively. Has this student broken a precept,
and if so, what precept?
The teacher then instructs the class to write their answers in the notebooks.
He may tell the class to place the notebooks with the answers neatly written
down on his desk as soon as they are ready, and he then leaves the room. Most
students will look in their own copy of the Nawakowat to see if they can find
the answers to the questions. They may discuss in a soft voice the possible
answers with one another and many students may copy the answers that the
brightest among them has written down. By 5.00 p.m. all notebooks must be
placed on the desk of the teacher, because at that time the students should be
on their way to the bot for the late afternoon chanting and meditation session.
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Most of the teaching hours are thus devoted to exegetical exercises with
regard to the rules of the Pāṭimokkha. In addition the students must be taught to
write a page-long treatise on the meaning of a religious concept. The curriculum
of the monk’s school also encompasses the reading of the Phutthaprawat, the
elaborate biography of the Buddha, and the pupils must take note as well of
the ethical aspects of the teachings of the Buddha as they are discussed in the
latter half of the Nawakowat. The teacher will usually ask the students to write a
page of prose on a certain religious concept during the day before wan phra and
during wan phra itself when no classes are held. One of the teaching days of the
week may be devoted to ethics and the communal reading of the story of the life
of the Buddha, so that four days per week remain for the discussion of the rules
of behaviour and the precepts of the monks.
Shortly after the Lenten season the yearly state examinations for the ec-
clesiastical degrees are held simultaneously in hundreds of the more important
monasteries throughout the country. During the examination there is strict
supervision, the students are not allowed to consult their notes. In 1975, ap-
proximately 70 per cent of the candidates for Nak tham III failed to pass.40
l Behaviour
In the section on the traditional learning of the inexperienced monk, the subject
of monastic behaviour was already broached. It was shown that traditionally,
the behaviour of the monk should be oriented towards calmness, tranquillity,
peacefulness, awareness at all times and the public display of contentedness,
and that very few precepts were traditionally memorized.
In contrast, a thorough knowledge of the exact wording and interpretation of
most of the rules is a prerequisite for the more recently introduced Nak tham III
examination. During the formal training in the jurisprudence of the precepts
many newly ordained monks notice that the general intention of many rules is
identical with what the older monks may have told them. Also they will come
across many precepts that are archaic, which refer to circumstances that have
disappeared in the more than two millennia since the Pāṭimokkha was com-
posed, and which simply cannot be applied to monks in present-day Thailand.
Under these rules fall especially the many that deal with behaviour towards the
bhikkhunī, a class of female members of the Sangha rarely found in Thailand.
It is interesting to note that the thorough schooling in the rules of behaviour
may also bring about awareness that there are certain precepts that are regularly
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126
Contrary to the Christian gospel, a poor widow, giving her all to the priest,
remains less blessed than the rich man; both have performed meritorious
acts, but the Thai observe that the effectiveness of ten thousand baht far
outweighs the widow’s battered coin.42
127
people realize that wrapping money in paper does not really solve the problem
of the monks acting against a precept, but at least it is not so bad as openly
handling that commodity. Many a monk will avoid handling cash in public,
knowing that his public image suffers by his touching banknotes and coins.
When in a shop, monks are often allowed to perform money transactions in
the private atmosphere at the back, out of the public gaze. Others try to take
along a dek wat who should handle all cash.
The dealings with money represent an instance where the religion of the
villagers conflicts with the written tradition, where the two orientations in the
practice of Buddhism, outlined in Chapter I, are in disagreement. In order to
demonstrate how far removed the villager’s ideas about monks and money
are from what can be expected from a perusal of the Pāṭimokkha, the gist
of a conversation at Wat Sanchao regarding the-monks and the state lottery
is presented. It must be kept in mind, however, that this is not a translation
from a verbatim report; the fieldwork situation forbade direct recording. The
conversations were noted down whenever the researcher had a moment of
privacy, often late at night.
All the monks realize that gambling is officially frowned upon. Still, because
it does not interfere with their private religious beliefs, they readily engage
in such matters. The only concession to the written rules is that they usually
engage a lay friend to purchase the lottery tickets.
With regard to the conflict between official rules and the accepted behaviour
of village monks it can be noted that the strict interpretation of the Pāṭimokkha as
given in the Nawakowat is gaining more and more acceptance. The trend towards
monastic behaviour according to the letter of the rules is enhanced by the
existence of a sect within the Thai Sangha that prides itself on a close adherence
to the Teachings. This sect, the Thammayuthika nikai (ธรรมยุทธิกานิกาย) ‘The
Assembly of the Dharma Laws’, formally established in 1894, now comprises less
than five per cent of the order; the rest of the Sangha is known as Maha nikai
(มหานิกาย), ‘the Great Assembly’. The monks who belong to the Thammayuthika
nikai set themselves high standards indeed with regards to public behaviour.
They take care to dress in a simple uniform manner, they do not walk out of step
when begging for food. They are cautious not to be seen handling money and
will refrain from the use of sandals. Their lunar calendar has been calculated with
greater precision than that of the rest of the country, and their chanting methods
are slightly at variance with those used in other monasteries.
Whilst it can be said that the Thammayuthika nikai monks behave in an ex-
emplary manner, the opposite cannot be said of the Maha nikai. Among the latter
many interpretations of the ecclesiastical laws can be found, from the extremely
rigid to the very lax. But as communication with the centrally organized Sangha
now reaches even the remote rural monasteries, a stricter adherence becomes
generally adopted. Laymen in general favour the very proper behaviour. The
farmers of Wat Sanchao think that the monks who act fully according to the pre-
cepts generate more and stronger beneficial power than those who are less strict,
and the former ought to be supported in preference to those who do not make
such efforts. When asked, they often think, however, that the Thammayuthika
nikai exaggerate in some respects, and they do not ask from their own monks, for
example, that they should walk barefoot in the heat of the day.
In this chapter, the role of the Buddhist monk has been described in the
complex setting of a rural tradition that is increasingly linked to the nation-wide
organization of the Sangha. In order to understand fully the exalted position of
the Wat Sanchao monk, it is not sufficient to refer to the principle of merit, as
is often the case in the literature on rural Thailand.43 It is true that the monk
43 For example in Kaufman’s Bangkhuad, p. 183, DeYoung’s Village Life in Modern Thailand,
p. 130, and in Kingshill’s Ku Daeng, p. 8 et passim.
129
increases his own store of merit, as well as the good karma of his benefactors
and ancestors, and that a monk offers a continual opportunity for laymen to
perform meritorious deeds. The ritual of kruat nam points to the importance
of the aspect of merit. While the idea of the acquisition of beneficial karma is of
assistance in explaining the religious behaviour of the monks, in rural areas the
role of the Buddhist monks can be further interpreted by taking the magico-
animistic worldview into account. The fundamental ideas surrounding the
origin and the value of beneficial power have bearing upon the behaviour of
the monks and the attitudes of the laymen towards the Sangha. It has been
established that monks who chant Pali texts, who meditate or who preach are
believed to emanate a protective power, and that objects and persons in their
proximity can become charged with this beneficial power.
This magical aspect of the activities of the monks is by no means incompatible
with the belief that the monk’s activities increase their merit. On the contrary, it
reinforces that idea; the greater the store of beneficial karma a monk possesses,
the stronger the power he generates. In the magico-animistic interpretation
of Buddhism, protective magical power can be seen as the immediate aspect
of merit. This immediate magical aspect is needed to understand the role of
rural monks. It is because of the protective power that emanates from a monk
that a father presents his son to such a ‘charged’ man, and is pleased to see the
child ‘bask’ in the luck-bringing force. It is a factor underlying the tradition of
inviting monks to chant sacred texts in the private homes. It is also an aspect
to be considered in answering the question of why laymen listen for hours to
sermons they may barely comprehend. The principle of emanating power is
needed to explain the ceremonial manner in which a woman presents a gift to
a monk, and it also helps to understand why certain behaviour of the monks,
though in conflict with the official rules, persists.
In the last part of this chapter the recent encroachments of intellectual,
compartmentalized Buddhism, resulting in some changes in the behaviour of
the monks, were demonstrated. However, the two interpretations of Buddhism
appear to be able to live side by side; the officially sponsored orientation does
not prevent rural people believing in the efficacy of magical power. In the eyes
of the farmers, monks and magic belong to the same religious norm complex.
130
132
3 Akin Rabibhadana, The Organization of Thai Society in the Early Bangkok Period, 1782–
1873, p. 123.
4 Graptophyllum hortense, G. B. McFarland, Thai-English Dictionary, p. 491. It is a garden
herb with leaves that are blotched with red, and it is often used medicinally.
5 Cynodon dactylon, McFarland, ibid., p. 600.
6 Phyllanthus distichus, McFarland, ibid., p. 638.
133
before the image of the Buddha. Meanwhile, the monk who is in charge of the
ceremony has taken the begging bowl containing water and quickly murmurs
some Pali formulae whilst holding a lighted candle above the surface of the
water, thus consecrating the contents of the vessel. This leading monk is usually
the abbot of the monastery where the monk has stayed for the Lenten season. It
sometimes happens, however, that a man prefers to leave the order somewhere
else. In that case he can travel to another monastery and agree with the abbot
there to stay the night so that the following morning the ceremony can be
performed.
The monk on whose instigation the ritual takes place is told that, if he wishes
to change his mind about becoming a layman, he now has a last opportunity
to do so. When he has indicated that he is certain, he is asked to repeat three
times the prescribed formula: ‘sikkhaṃ paccakkhāmi gihīti maṃ dhāretha’
which can be translated as: ‘I leave the discipline, you should recognize me as
householder’. From the moment that the word dhāretha has sounded for the
third time, the man is a monk no more, and he must therefore change into lay
clothing. Upon returning to the scene of the ritual, the man who has just left
the Sangha must undergo several ritual acts that are intended to protect and
guard him. The abbot sprinkles him with consecrated water, using the bunch
of leaves as a brush, whilst the other monks who had to be invited as witnesses
chant some auspicious stanzas. The ex-monk is then instructed to go and bathe
himself thoroughly, to rub himself with soap, rinse well, and afterwards to
return to the abbot. In the privacy of the abbot’s room the layman is instructed
to be a worthy member of the community, and is prompted to ask to receive
the five precepts of the layman from the abbot.7 He may also receive several
protective objects. It is quite common for him to receive a cotton cord around
his neck. This cord is made up of nine strands of loose cotton. The striking
similarity between the use of this cord and that of the yajñopavīta of the
upayana ceremony in ancient India8 points to an Indian origin of this custom,
Also, the abbot may draw a simple yan on the head of the layman, or press some
gold leaf on his forehead whilst saying a blessing in Pali.9
Unless pressing reasons prevent him from doing so, the man who has just
left the order is expected to still remain several days and nights in his monastery.
134
He should remove the traces he left whilst a monk; he ought to clean his former
cell, the communal eating-place, and the toilets, and he should fill the communal
vessels with fresh water.
When he arrives home for the first time since leaving the order he must
prostrate himself before all his older relatives, especially those who supported
him with gifts during his period in the order. When prostrated, the ex-monk
politely lifts his hands palm to palm and in a soft voice offers a share in the merit
that he has accumulated as a member of the Sangha. This act is called baeng
kuson (แบ่งกุศล), or ‘sharing good karma’, and should not be omitted without
offending the relatives. The custom of sharing merit is not only confined to
this moment of leaving the order. It is common behaviour for anybody who
has recently acquired a great deal of merit. After donating a great sum of money
to a monastery, for example, a person can go to a good friend and share merit.
It is believed that the sharing of beneficial karma causes people to be linked
propitiously in future lives.
After a man has left the monastery, he may remain at home for a considerable
time. It is expected from a young man who has just become a layman that for
several months he behaves in a calm and subdued manner. Often he keeps away
from public places until his hair has grown sufficiently to have his first haircut.
After this moment, when there is no physical indication of his recent period as
a monk, he is expected to take his position in society and as part of the taking
of adult status he is expected to select a bride, marry, and raise a family.
Courting
Some men, especially those who are exceptionally attractive or relatively
wealthy, have little difficulty in finding a suitable marriage partner, but most
men in rural regions seem to feel rather insecure and anxious during the
time of courtship. Traditionally, courting is an activity which should take
place in the home of the young woman and the young man feels exposed to
the scrutiny of the relatives of the woman he wishes to know better. She is
continually chaperoned so that there is virtually no opportunity for a private
tête-à-tête. Until her family has accepted a formal marriage offer, any suitor may
come and try to impress the family with his prospects, good manners, and
engaging personality. Rivalry between different suitors is not uncommon and
the traditional place to outdo a rival is in the home of the girl, under the eyes
of her relatives. This rivalry may express itself in a match of wits or a contest
in politeness; aggressiveness, bragging, or brute force openly expressed do not
win respect. Since many young people nowadays take temporary work in the
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provincial capital, courting has become less formal because members of both
sexes can meet at work away from the supervision of elder relatives. This new
situation does not prevent fierce competition.
In these circumstances, a man may avail himself of magical means in order
to increase his chances of winning the bride of his choice. Thus, when courting,
he will not forget to wear a chain of amulets that reputedly have the power
to increase the popularity of the wearer. If he has been tattooed with designs
that are alleged to possess the same power, he raises this energy by saying the
appropriate khatha over them. Another method to ensure increased popularity
is to say a khatha over the powder used to make up the face. In rural Thailand,
people of both sexes and of all ages can use a form of make-up made with fragrant
white powder paeng (แป้ง) mixed with water and applied to the face. The face
can be completely blanched, a method called tha paeng (ทาแป้ง) ‘smearing the
powder’, or white dots can be distributed over the face, using the fingertips, a
method called pa paeng (ปะแป้ง).
Sometimes a man may have obtained from a ritual specialist a small glass
bottle filled with some clear liquid that contains two small wooden images.
One is made of black wood, and is about l½ cm tall, the other is made of wood
of a much lighter hue and reaches a height of approximately 1 cm. This bottle
and its contents are called a rakyom (รักยม). It can be carried in the pocket of
one’s shirt. Reputedly it has a great amount of mettā (goodwill, compassion,
sympathy or friendliness) and causes women to fall in love with the wearer.
In the context of analysing the rural interpretation of Buddhism it is relevant
to note that the rakyom can be manufactured and blessed by highly respected
monks. The members of the Sangha confer mettā through their meditation
and sacred words, and this concept, derived from Pali, can in its Thai context,
also be extended to include the more passionate form of friendship which we
call love. It is therefore the ascetic monk who can invest the rakyom with so
much mettā that a layman carrying the small bottle becomes irresistible to the
opposite sex.
If these practices that are directed to boost a man’s popularity in general
do not have the desired results, he may resort to more goal-directed magical
practices. One man reputedly won his wife by drawing a simple magical
diagram, one of the category of the yan napaṭhamaṃ (see Figure 6.1 overleaf),
while thinking intensively of the woman he wished to marry and saying the
appropriate khatha. He waited seven days for the magic to take effect and,
when approaching her, he noticed that she was more favourably inclined
towards him.
136
137
138
139
must be seen as polluted and aggressive: it is where the wood starts rotting,
the stagnant water has often an unpleasant smell, and it may contain particles
of dirt from the feet of countless passengers. Moss that grows on the sanctuary
of a monastery appears more ambiguously charged. On the one hand, it can
usually be found on ground level, and may have been dirtied by the many dogs
that roam the premises. On the other hand, a small amount of the beneficial
power that is continually generated in the building itself may have permeated
as far as the mossy outside. It seems, however, that the aggressive aspects
prevail for the moss is reported to be one of the ingredients of a magically
highly potent substance used to kill enemies.15
It appears therefore that the magical practices to ensure the attention of a
person of the opposite sex differ depending on whether the practitioner is a
man or a woman. A man can resort to a much wider array of techniques. He
can use sources of purely beneficial power, such as amulets worn on a string
around the neck, obtain a proper yan or a rakyom, invoke gods, or resort to
more aggressive, even harmful forces. A woman has virtually no access to the
beneficial powers and if she wishes to influence other people by magical means
she must use forces that can at best be seen as ambivalent, but usually fall in the
aggressive category.
This difference in magical techniques can be seen as part of an overall
ritual opposition of the sexes that becomes more and more pronounced as
individuals grow from childhood to adulthood. It has been noted that boys can
walk around naked for many years, whilst a small girl has her lower abdomen
covered from a very young age. Boys can have contact with monks, whilst girls
are instructed to keep away from the members of the Sangha. Boys acquire
many objects that can protect them; hardly any are available for girls. Young
men are likely to be tattooed and invested with the ancient powers of the achan
sak, but women cannot partake in this aspect of life. At the age of twenty a
man is expected to become a monk and spend several months in an intensive
learning process; no such honourable positions are open to women. It is only at
a much later stage of life that women obtain some access to sacred knowledge;
while they are of childbearing age they remain ritually opposed to the men.
Marriage
The meeting par excellence of the ritually opposed sexes is sexual intercourse
and in central Thailand such a meeting cannot be lightly engaged upon for
15 Phya Amman Rajadhon, ‘Data on Conditioned Poison’, Journal of the Siam Society, Vol.
53, Pt. 1, 1965, p. 80, reprinted in Essays on Thai Folklore, 1968, p. 149.
140
the first time. Unmarried girls are closely supervised and they may meet
suitors only in the presence of witnesses. Fewer restraints are imposed upon
unmarried couples as regards verbal advances; flirting with gestures of the eyes
and hands is approved of and widely practised. A chaperone is only there to
make sure that no physical contact such as touching or fondling takes place.
Any sexual contact between courting couples usually has to take place secretly
in the fields, away from the homes of people.
The reason for the general prohibition of physical contact between unmar-
ried couples is usually given as: ‘It insults the spirits of the ancestors’. Wood re-
ports an anecdote concerning a cook who had committed a ‘horrible outrage’
by stroking the hand of the daughter of some Thai people, and writes amusedly
of the reactions of the parents:
. . . not in our house. We have a spirit living in the roof which is extremely
strict in morals, and which is rendered furious if it observes even the slightest
familiarity between unmarried persons.16
This reaction of the parents of the girl indicates precisely the attitudes of
rural people towards sexual intercourse of unmarried people. The ancestors
are jealous and seem loath to leave their former property in the hands of their
descendants. Before any stranger makes more than a short or casual visit to a
house, the ancestors wish to hear about it and the newcomer must be properly
introduced by the eldest of the house. This is done during the daily ritual of
offering incense, a candle and flowers. If an unmarried couple stays overnight
under the same roof and if they were to engage in sexual intercourse, the spirits
of the ancestors who never sleep would be deeply mortified and insulted and
they are likely to retaliate. Any misfortune that occurs in a community while
an unmarried couple lives together will be seen as the likely result of the wrath
of the spirits. The couple in question will be held responsible for the fact that
a neighbour suffers from nightmares, that a child becomes ill, or a house burns
down. Pressure will be brought upon them and their relatives to stop flouting
the spirits.
This is the reason why the parents of a young woman will make sure that
she does not find herself alone with a suitor; they guard her closely, especially
when the time of marriage draws near. As mentioned earlier, in recent times
the farmers find it increasingly difficult to guard their daughters because the
young people travel often to the provincial capital to seek work during the slack
141
season and they may make arrangements to meet without knowledge of older
relatives.
In line with the ideas concerning sexual intercourse and ancestors, the
elementary, essential marriage ceremony consists of a ritual during which the
spirits of the ancestors are informed of the fact that a certain couple will be
husband and wife. The ancestors are made aware of the fact that a contract
is made between the parties involved, and therefore these spirits should not
be offended when sexual intercourse between the young people takes place.
Similar beliefs are indicated for northern Thailand.17
Two meals for the ancestors are prepared on two trays, each containing,
for example, a banana, a small ripe coconut, some boiled rice, some raw meat,
an alcoholic beverage, and some sweets, the kinds of food which these spirits
presumably like to receive. The even number of trays symbolizes that there
are two parties involved; even numbers are a recurrent aspect of the marriage
ceremony, especially in the elaborate rituals. Incense and candles are lighted
and some fragrant flowers are donated to attract the attention of these invisible
agents. The oldest members of the families involved will be spokesmen and
-women for those who have gathered, and they will introduce the match in
carefully chosen words. It is customary to indicate to the spirits that the contract
is legally binding by showing the bride price to them. This need not necessarily
be a very great amount of money; it depends upon the negotiations previous to
the marriage. It must always be an even amount and can be offered in coins or
bullion. Sometimes it represents years of savings of the bridegroom. If a woman
deserts her husband for no reason considered valid, the bride price may be
claimed back.
The bride and groom prostrate themselves before the place where the an-
cestors usually reside, usually near a shelf on the eastern, most honourable side
of the house.’ They also present themselves to their older relatives who bless
them and wish them happiness. To ensure that no power will be offended,
some food and liquor is also placed on the shrine of the spirit of the soil, not far
from the house, and the couple should also inform this spirit of the marriage.
While the elementary marriage ceremony centres around propitiation, the
elaborations cover a wealth of non-religious aspects as well as some details of
interest to the student of Thai religion. Elaborate marriages usually unfold in
three distinct parts, and the exact moment for the beginning of each part can
be fixed at an auspicious moment by a ritual specialist.
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143
On the day of the marriage the groom’s family provides three ceremonial
containers, one holding the bride price and plant material similar to that
which accompanied the engagement money, the other to vessels holding areca
nuts and betel leaves. At the betrothal, the single vessel with areca indicated
the approach of one party, whereas the two containers stand for the coming
together of two parties. The persons carrying the containers are received with
proper hospitality.
At around ten o’clock in the morning the monks who have been invited
for this occasion arrive, their dek wat carrying begging bowls. As in virtually
all rituals where monks and laymen meet, the Five Precepts are recited, and
as soon as the laymen have solemnly promised to adhere to these moral rules,
the monks chant several texts which are known to be suited for auspicious
occasions and which all can be found in the Suatmon Chet Tamnan. The
begging bowls are placed immediately in front of the dais on which the monks
recite, and during the chanting of Pali texts rice is offered into these bowls by
all laymen present. The bride and bridegroom should be the first to place some
rice in each begging bowl, using a single spoon that they should both hold at
the moment of donating the rice. In this manner they perform a meritorious
deed simultaneously, thus linking their individual stores of good karma. This
ensures that they connect some of their future happy moments, not only in this
life, but also in future existences.
Through their chanting the monks consecrate a bowl of water, and immedi-
ately afterwards the rice and all other dishes of food have to be ceremoniously
presented to the monks. Again, the bride and groom should perform the ritual
handing-over simultaneously. As always during auspicious ceremonies, the
farmers make sure to include all powers, and a tray with a token of each kind of
food is therefore placed in front of the Buddha image of the house, another tray
with these foods is placed near the shelf with the remains of the ancestors, and
a third food offering is brought to the shrine of the spirit of the soil just outside
the house.
Wat Sanchao farmers can remember that a few decades ago the morning
ceremony ended at this point. Just before noon the monks partook of the meal
and the whole gathering had to wait until about four o’clock in the afternoon,
which was considered the auspicious time for the lustration of the couple. It
was customary to invite the same chapter of monks back so that they could
initiate the afternoon ritual by sprinkling the couple with sacral water. This
lapse of time between the morning meal of the monks and the sprinkling was
inconvenient for the monks as well as for the laymen. The monks would have
144
Figure 6.2: Blessing the married couple by sprinkling them with nam mon.
to wait four hours before proceeding with the ritual, and if the house where
the marriage took place were situated far away from a monastery it would not
be worth while to walk to and fro. It was also inconvenient for the organizers
of the marriage ceremony because, if the monks left the scene early in the
afternoon and returned at four p.m., they would have to receive the members
of the Sangha twice. If, on the other hand, the monks remained in the house,
they would have to be constantly attended to in accordance with their exalted
ritual position. Therefore it has now become customary to link the sprinkling
ritual with the meal of the monks in the morning. It would, of course, not have
been possible to shift the meal of the monks to the afternoon, since the rules of
the Sangha forbid eating of solid food after midday.
Thus, immediately after the official meal has been concluded and the
laymen have been able to offer a share of merit to relatives and ancestors in the
kruat nam ritual, the bride and groom are sprinkled. They prostrate themselves
before every individual monk in turn and as they go down the row the bowl of
water is passed on. Each successive monk takes the bowl, dips into it a bundle
of leaves that carry auspicious names and splashes some of the water over their
heads while reciting an auspicious Pali phrase. For the marriage ceremony, a
common plant from which to use twigs is the Calotropis gigantea.19 Its inclusion
is undoubtedly related to the fact that the leaves of this plant are called rak-
leaves, and the word rak (รัก) means in Thai ‘to love, to cherish’.
145
After the sprinkling, the monks return to their monasteries and the remain-
der of the marriage ritual is fully in the hands of the laymen. These continue
the aspersion of the couple. The difference in rank between monk and layman
is reflected in the fact that bride and groom do not have to fully prostrate when
they are sprinkled by older relatives. The bride sits on the left hand of the
groom. A person who knows an appropriate formula, usually a man from the
community who is famous for his knowledge of ritual, approaches the couple
and anoints their foreheads with a fragrant paste.
A spell for this occasion, recorded by Wirijá’buuraná’, can be transcribed as
follows:
Sunakkhattaṃ sumangalaṃ supabhātaṃ suhiṭṭhitaṃ sukhaṇo sumuhutto ca
suyiṭṭhaṃ brahmacārisu padakkhiṇaṃ kāyakammaṃ vācākammaṃ padak
khiṇaṃ padakkhiṇa manokammaṃ paṇidhi te padakkhiṇā padakkhiṇāni
katvāna te labhantan te padakkhiṇe.20
This formula is made up of auspicious Pali words; the meaning seems obvi-
ously connected with a ritual circumambulation of the couple, which here be
understood as a metaphor for a circular movement. The text seems slightly
corrupt, however, but still may be translated as:
20 Urakhin, ประเพณี ไทยฉบับพระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], B.E. 2510
(1967), p. 234.
146
Figure 6.4: An elderly relative pours scented water from a conch shell.
The ‘going around’ refers to the movement of a white cotton cord, which
is three times wound around the head of the groom and a similar circular
crown is placed on the bride’s head. The ‘twin crowns’ as they are popularly
called, are connected with a thin thread. Parents, relatives, and other guests
now come forward one by one to sprinkle the hands of the couple with scent-
ed water from a conch shell whilst wishing them prosperity and happiness.
After everyone has done this, the ritual specialist removes the ‘twin crowns’
simultaneously.
The third stage of the elaborate marriage ceremony is called riang mon (เรียง
หมอน) or ‘arranging the pillows’. It is usually held in the home of the bride, so
that in some cases, notably where the chanting of the monks and the sprinkling
ritual have taken place in the house of the parents of the groom, the whole
party has to move to a different location. If the riang mon occurs on the same
day that the sprinkling took place, the astrologer usually decides that the most
147
auspicious time for the final stage of the ceremony is at seven or eight o’clock
in the evening.
In the house of the bride a sleeping place has been arranged with great
care. The bride price and some leaves with auspicious names, such as rak-
leaves and silver-and-gold leaves, have been placed on this bed. Bride and
groom must lie down on this bed, on either side of the bride price, the bride
to the left, the groom to the right. While taking their position they should
take care not to bump their heads together, since such a small mishap is
interpreted as indicating that the marriage will be troubled by frequent
vehement quarrelling.
A person who is reputed to have been happily married for many years has
been invited to instruct the couple. This marriage instruction usually covers a
wide range of subjects. Thus, the proper behaviour of the marriage partners
towards each other is often broached. The husband is admonished to be just
and considerate, whilst the wife ought to be gentle and understanding. Under
no circumstances should they be forgetful with regard to the spirits of the
ancestors.
Specific rules of behaviour that are auspicious in daily routine can be men-
tioned. For example, when getting up in the morning, a person should wash
the face with clean water in a properly contemplative mood. The water can be
blessed with a few Pali words before using it to rub the face. Some auspicious
words such as Namo Buddhāya, or Itipiso Bhagavā may serve. Unless a person
is sick he should not be found in bed at the moment of sunrise or sundown.
Always, after a day’s work, a person should bathe and perfume himself. The
married couple should sleep with their heads towards the auspicious east.
Husband and wife should not have sexual intercourse on wan phra or the day
before wan phra. In addition there is a strong warning against sexual inter-
course when a woman menstruates; such behaviour may result in the birth of
unhealthy children. In accordance with the ideas of magical power, a woman
should never be in a relatively higher position than her husband when they
engage in sexual play lest the man lose some of his magical protection.
In former times, the couple was left alone after the marriage instruction
until the next morning. At the present time, the moments of privacy often last
only a few minutes; this is nothing more than a symbolization of the fact that
from now on they are entitled to each other’s company without a chaperone.
Soon they join the guests for a final rejoicing in the occasion.
There are no fixed rules for the place of residence of a newly married
couple. The decision to settle in a compound with the family of the groom, to
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reside with the family of the bride, or to live on their own depends largely on
circumstances that differ from case to case.
The discussion of leaving the order, courting and marriage on the previous
pages broached several aspects of rural religion that are of importance to young
adults, but of which they were not aware of in their younger days. A short
remark on symbolism and a more elaborate mention of auspicious moments
are therefore warranted.
Symbolism
It is apparent to these young people that the paraphernalia used during ceremo-
nies often serve a symbolic function. Some of these are almost self-explanatory.
When betel leaves and areca nuts are used in a ritual they clearly indicate the
concept of agreement, harmony, or understanding. Gold-and-silver leaves are
present when it is appropriate to refer to the ideas of prosperity and wealth.
Rak-leaves appear when it is necessary to stress the concept of love. It is more
difficult in many cases to decipher the hidden messages of, for example, a tray
with unhusked rice, puffed rice, green peas, and sesame seed. Such knowledge
is reserved for the ritual specialist who prescribes and prepares the ingredients
during elaborate ceremonies. The young people may regard it as esoteric lore.
Almost invariably a gift to an immaterial religious agent is accompanied
by candles, flowers, and incense. The prime reason for the inclusion of these
articles seems to lie in their pleasant scent. Spirits and divine beings are
immaterial, and so is the fragrance of candles, flowers and incense. These
articles may be seen as the paraphernalia that cause the spirits and gods to give
their attention, and it is in line with this thought that they are always offered at
the very beginning of a ritual.
Auspicious moments
It has been noted in both the ceremony for leaving the order and the elaborate
marriage ceremony that advice may be sought with regard to the most auspi-
cious moment on which the ceremony can take place. For major, elaborate
rituals the farmer usually does not fix an auspicious time himself; he will have
to consult a ritual specialist. This expert can be a monk or a layman who, when
approached, usually has to consult some handbook before giving advice. Each
type of ceremony has its own peculiar rules with regard to what is auspicious.
In addition, the rules concern various units of time: the year, the lunar month,
the day of the week and the divisions of the day itself. A further variant that
149
Sunday X
Monday X
Tuesday X
Wednesday X
Thursday X
Friday X
Saturday X
needs to be taken into account is the moment of birth of the person or persons
for whom the best moment is to be calculated.
Most farmers wish to choose auspicious moments for all decisive acts of
their lives; they like to begin planting rice on the proper day, build a house in a
favourable period, travel only when the signs are right, and discuss important
matters only when the omens are good. For decisions of minor importance,
most farmers will not take the trouble to visit an astrologer. Instead they
may consult simple charts that give information about auspicious times in
general. Such charts are widely distributed and in almost every household an
astrological timetable of one sort or another can be found.
One of the most widespread timetables is the yan ubakong (ยันต์อุบากอง), of
which an elaborate version is given in Figure 6.5. Each day and each night of the
week is divided into five periods. The squares marked with four circles are the
most auspicious times; the squares with a cross indicate the most inauspicious
periods of the week. A blank square indicates an indifferent period that may
bring luck but could bode disaster; the squares with two circles are mildly
auspicious and those with a single one are slightly favourable. The yan ubakong
can be seen chalked on a wall in a home; it may be printed on the back of
leaflets which advertise a major fund-raising ceremony; sometimes a man can
have it tattooed on the upper thigh. The yan ubakong shown in Figure 6.5 was
found on the back of a propaganda leaflet for the general elections of 1969.
150
Other charts that are often found in the homes of farmers indicate which
days of the lunar month are auspicious or inauspicious. Some tables can be used
to find out to what degree people born on a certain day are compatible, others
tell which type of rice will grow best during a certain year of the twelve-year
cycle. This cycle, in which each year is known by the name of an animal, is used
throughout mainland Southeast Asia but also in China and Tibet; probably
the Thais adopted the system even before they migrated to the mainland. The
Thai sequence of animals is: rat, ox, tiger, hare, big serpent, serpent, horse,
goat, monkey, cock, dog, and pig.
A large number of charts are printed in relatively cheap handbooks that
are widely distributed.21 The different astrological handbooks may well
contain contradictory information, and it is by trial and error that a farmer
decides which charts seem to give best guidance. Ideally, a man should have
a private handbook, one that has been drawn up by an astronomer using the
personal moment of birth as base for all his calculations. The frequent use of
astrology reflects the widespread feeling that the farmer’s life is hazardous:
sudden illness may strike, moneylenders may lose their patience, or crops
may fail.
In this chapter, the range of magical powers has been further described,
especially in the sections on love magic, where the whole gamut of forces can
be used, A man can influence an unwilling woman by the use of beneficially
charged objects, but sometimes the use of aggressive, even dangerous materials
is not excluded. The use of polluted matter and body secretions is highly
illuminative in the field of Thai magic.
The marriage ceremony has been approached only from a religious angle.
The elementary ceremony was shown to be an occasion for informing the
ancestors and asking for a blessing of the alliance from these spirits as well
as from elder relatives, The elaborations involve a ritual meeting of the two
families and propitiation of the ancestors, the Buddha image, and the spirit of
the soil. The inclusion of a chapter of monks may not have been originally part
of the ceremony, but at present Buddhist monks fulfil an important role. The
beneficial power of the monks’ chanting is used to bless the couple, to add to
the auspiciousness of the occasion, and to increase the chances of a happy, long-
lasting union.
21 For example: Urakhin, พรหมชาติ ฉบับหลวง ประจำ�บ้าน ดูด้วยตนเอง [The Brahman, Major
Edition for the Household, for Self-use], Bangkok: Rongphim Luk S. Thammaphakdi,
B.E. 2500 (1957). For an annotated translation of much of the information in such Thai
astrological handbooks, see H. G. Quaritch Wales, Divination in Thailand, 1983.
151
Nhouy Abhay indicates that in Laos the monks can also be involved in
the marriage ceremony.22 When we take that information together with the
evidence for central Thailand, it appears that Nash was not fully informed
when he summed up the relation between monks and marriage in Southeast
Asia, when he stated:
. . . monks are present at marriage ceremonies in Cambodia, while in all other
Theravada communities the Buddhist cleric is symbolically antithetical to
marriage and procreation; . . .23
22 Thao Nhouy Abhay, ‘Marriage Rites’, in Kingdom of Laos (ed. by R. de Berval), 1959, pp.
137–43.
23 M. Nash, in his Introduction to Anthropological Studies in Theravada Buddhism, p. viii.
152
Bu i l d i n g a H o u s e 1
153
154
magical drawings and diagrams have been traced, can be found on or near the
shelf. Sometimes an object that has the appearance of a banknote is fastened
here. On close examination, however, it becomes apparent that, although it has
many characteristics of Thai currency, the banknote depicts the image of a monk
and some lines in the sacred Khom script. This ‘sacred banknote’ reputedly has
the power of increasing the prosperity of a household. If a farmer possesses a
horoscope, a book with spells, or a table showing the different auspicious and
inauspicious times, these can also be kept on this shelf. Often it also contains
the remains of daily offerings: remnants of candles, incense sticks and flowers.
More secular ornaments, like the picture of a living member of the family,
or a calendar, tend to be placed at a marked distance from this shelf, preferably
on another wall. If an ornament of secular nature is put near the shelf it has to
be fastened in a lower position. A photograph of secular nature ought not to
be placed above something ritually superior. Therefore a picture of the queen
should not be hung directly above a photograph of a monk. Members of the
royal family are god-like in status but ritually inferior to a Buddhist monk.
The arrangement on different levels is thus executed on the principle that
a relatively more important object, person or activity should be placed higher.3
Apart from this vertical collocation, principles governing on a horizontal plane
can be added.
The east, where the sun rises, is associated with life and generally regarded
as auspicious. The west, where the sun goes down, is associated with death and
is inauspicious. A corpse is placed with the head in a westerly direction, but
when a living person lies down to sleep, he should take care to position his body
auspiciously. Nightmares would plague the person sleeping with his head in a
westerly direction; the proper way to sleep is with the head towards the east.4
Taking the ideal auspicious position of the body of a sleeping person as point
of departure, several architectural features of homes in rural central Thailand can
be illustrated. The ancestor shelf has to be on the eastern half of the house; if it
were on the western wall, the inhabitants of the house would insult their ancestors
by stretching their feet in the direction of this shelf. Kraiśrī Nimmānahaeminda
reports similar feelings among people of northern Thailand in respect of a shelf
on which a Buddha image stands.5 The entrance to the sleeping area, on the other
3 It is only during the course of the twentieth century that the Thais have come to terms
with living in multi-storied buildings. Such a coming to terms means a shutting out of the
thought that there may be people living directly above one’s head.
4 Sathian Koset, ประเพณี เก่าของไทย [Old Customs of the Thais], p. 187.
5 ‘Ham Yon, the Magic Testicles’, p. 133.
155
hand, cannot be on the eastern side, for thus people entering the area would be
forced to walk close by the heads of those already resting.
Ideally, a house should therefore be built with the high levels of the floor
on the east, and the lower portions on the western side. The stairway should
lead to the low area but not directly towards the west. In practice most houses
are not built strictly according to the east–west axis, and deviations of up to
45 degrees to either side are common. The exact position of the home often
depends on the advice of a ritual specialist who, before deciding upon the
direction of the house, will take the topographical circumstances into account.
Building directly along a north–south axis is generally avoided in rural regions,
as it would be khwang tawan (ขวางคะวัน), ‘offensive to the sun’.
Not every man will come into such circumstances that he is obliged to
build a house of his own. Those who inherit a dwelling and people who
stay with relatives may never need to erect their own home. Those who feel
obliged to build their own house usually observe certain rituals during the
construction of the building. It depends mainly on the wealth of the builder
whether only essential ceremonial must suffice, or whether more elaborate
ritual is chosen.
refrain from such behaviour can easily be interpreted as ‘proof ’ of the fact
that even in rural Buddhism the compartmentalization of pure religion and
accretions has had its effects on ritual. People with the elitist type of Buddhism
in mind may see it as an indication of a dichotomy between Buddhism and
propitiation. However, seen from the perspective of the animistic type of
Buddhism, the correct interpretation of the fact that a monk does not offer
gifts to these powers is simply a matter of etiquette. A monk should never lower
himself to ask favours from the spirits. The ritual position of a monk is more
exalted than that of the spirits and godly powers around him.
When the site has thus been placated, when the spirits who may feel a claim
to the land have been propitiated, holes for the poles of the house can be dug,
and building can proceed without further ceremonial.
Common Elaborations
People who can afford to build a wooden home instead of constructing one of
bamboo usually take more precautions to ensure the happiness of the future
inhabitants. They engage a ritual specialist who will assist with the selection
of the place on which to build, with the choice of wood and with the elaborate
ceremonials.
In the time before the widespread devastation of Thailand’s natural re
sources, the timber for building a house was not bought from another person,
but had to be gathered in a forest by the man who built the home, accompanied
and assisted by his intimate friends. They often took the ritual specialist along
in order to decide which trees were auspicious. The specialist selected trees
that grew in favourable positions, and made sure that the types of wood se-
lected were considered suitable in ritual lore. Wood considered auspicious was,
for example, mai teng (ไม้เต็ง) (Shorea obtusa) and mai rang (ไม้รัง) (Pentacme
siamensis). A good timber tree, but dangerous because of its reputed attrac-
tion to certain spirits, was mai takhian (ไม้ตะเคียน) (Serianthes grandiflora,
Erythophloeun succirubrum).
Most of the trees that were considered inauspicious were unsuitable for
house building; they rotted quickly, were easily devoured by insects, were too
wet or too heavy. One tree, although useful as timber, was avoided because its
name mai makha mong (ไม้มะค่ามอง) (Afzelia xylocarpe), sounded inauspicious
since the syllable kha was associated with the Thai word for ‘to kill’, ‘to murder’
(ฆ่า). In modern times, timber factories sell this wood under a new name,
mai charoensuk (ไม้เจริญสุข), a name suggesting an increase in happiness. The
woodcutters took great care to let the trees fall in an auspicious direction, and
157
the ritual specialist was at hand to interpret the creaking sounds in the wood
just before it fell. These sounds were seen as a communication from the spirit
of the wood, the Nang Mai (นางไม้).
Nowadays, the central area of Thailand has almost been wholly deforested,
and timber merchants have to import wood from other regions. Therefore the
customs regarding the selection and cutting of wood have virtually disappeared
from this region. While selecting timber is now a purely commercial activity, the
choice of the most auspicious building site is still decided by the ritual specialist.
He examines in detail several situational and topographical characteristics of
the plot of land. Before finally giving his advice, he takes into account which
different plants grow there and in which direction these plants will stand in
relation to the new house. In addition he looks at the slope of the land and the
occurrence and exact position of anthills.
158
Usually, the elaborate ceremonies connected with the actual building of the
house fall on two successive days. On the first day, offerings are made to placate
the appropriate spirits and the holes for the supporting poles are dug. On the
second day these poles are placed, the sao aek (เสาเอก), ‘first pole’ is raised,
other posts put into position and the house is constructed. Traditionally,
a house had to be built completely during that second day. Therefore the
ceremony of raising the ‘first pole’ had to take place early in the morning, so
that building could start just after sunrise. Many friends and relatives would
turn up to assist in the construction. In order to ensure that enough manpower
would be available, the house building had therefore to be planned during the
periods of the year when work in the fields was slack. The owner of the new
house had to note carefully who had come to help him, so that this service
could be reciprocated at a future date.
All tasks of major proportion were shared in the traditional village economy.
Voluntary, unpaid help was always reciprocal. If, for example, two members of
a family helped during a whole day to build the home of a neighbour, the family
of these two could be certain that it would receive a similar amount of man-
hours in return whenever a comparable task arose. Nowadays, the big building
tasks are often done by workers who are paid a daily wage and who receive
free food. These paid workers toil shoulder to shoulder with the traditional-
minded friends who help on a reciprocal basis. The same phenomenon can be
observed during the harvesting period in the fields. If a family has accumulated
many debt hours with another group of people and wishes to quickly rectify
the balance, it is always possible to give appropriate financial assistance with
one of the religious ceremonies of that group.
Although the custom of finishing the building on one day has largely disap-
peared, the raising of the ‘first pole’ still takes place at sunrise. Nowadays, a
rich farmer feels obliged to build a home of such grandeur that it cannot be
constructed in a single day. He now requires a well-laid hardwood floor, wind-
proof walls, and a roof covered with prefabricated sheets of board or metal. His
fellow villagers can be of only limited assistance to him; he needs to engage
a professional carpenter. After the first day of building usually only the outer
framework of the modern house has been assembled, and it may take many
weeks before the home is habitable.
Prior to the first day of the elaborate ceremonies, the owner of the plot of
land will have turned and levelled out the earth where the house will stand.
Close by the building site he has to construct a san phiangta (ศาลเพียงตา), a
‘shrine on eye level’. The ritual specialist has indicated to him exactly where
159
this shrine should be erected, after having taken into account the astrological
characteristics of the days of ceremony. This shrine rests on four, six or
eight bamboo stakes. The front poles are about 1.60 m high, the back ones
much taller. A horizontal framework connects all poles, giving the whole the
appearance of a chair on tall props. A bar between the back poles provides the
‘back rest’. Just before a ritual commences in which the san phiangta plays a
role, a white cloth is draped over the top of the structure and a pillow in a white
pillowcase is placed on the ‘seat of the chair’. An umbrella fastened above the
shrine completes the preparation of the san phiangta.
The specialist brings his ritual paraphernalia: white clothes which are
regarded as the uniform of a ‘Brahmin’, a phakhaoma (ผ้าขาวม้า), which is a
rectangular multi-coloured cotton cloth with a check pattern, worn only by
men,6 a number of rectangular pieces of plant material cut from an inner layer
of the trunk of a banana tree, and two ritual food baskets. One of these food
containers is triangular, the other is square with a circular inner vessel. Both
ritual baskets are divided into a number of compartments, often nine, in which
food for the powers to be placated is laid. He may also bring a vessel with sacral
water, but if he has to travel far, he may prefer to sacralize some water at the
place of the ceremony by muttering a series of sacred words and extinguishing
a lighted candle in a bowl of water. The owner of the future house usually
provides the other materials needed for the ritual, and will have bought an
ample supply of candles, incense, flowers, food, and alcoholic beverages.
The specialist fills the compartments of the triangular and square baskets,
each with food appropriate for the non-human powers: a bit of cooked rice,
some puffed rice, green peas, sesame seed, a banana, a piece of sugarcane and
different kinds of sweets. The full range depends often on what is available.
If there is meat, a piece of chicken or duck is considered to be pleasing to the
spirits involved. In the rural regions, the ordinary farmer could not explain the
symbolic meaning of the different kinds of food. The general idea seems to be
to offer a variety of foods that are of good quality and fragrant. The quantity
appears to be immaterial, and therefore it can be presented in miniature
containers.
The specialist places the triangle on the san phiangta and the square con-
tainer on a mat, together with other ritual objects that he will need presently.
6 It can be used as loincloth, bathing trunks, towel, sash or as head-cover. For ritual
purposes it is worn over the left shoulder, tucked under the right arm, like the upavīta in
India.
160
On one occasion,7 when asked for whom the gifts on the san phiangta were
intended, the ritual specialist answered readily: ‘For Phum (ภูมิ), the lord of the
plot of land’. He then walks around the building site and, at every place where
later a support of the house will stand, presses a twig into the earth to such a
depth that, without falling over, it can support one of the rectangular pieces cut
from the trunk of a banana tree. A twig upon which such a rectangular piece
is fastened thus constitutes a receptacle, and every place where the earth will
be deeply disturbed is indicated by such a small tray. On each of these little
platforms an offering is placed, such as a small piece cut from a banana, or a
minute piece of sugarcane, sometimes accompanied by incense. It is said that
this gift is for Phaya Nak (พะยานาค), the king of serpents.
After these preparations he proceeds with an official invitation to the non-
human powers. It may commence with words like:
Oṃ Phra Phum, Phra Thorani, Krungphali, sahaparivarāya ehi sathaya
āgacchantu paribhuñjantu svāhāya . . . .8
This formula appears to be made up mainly of Pali or Sanskrit words and may
be paraphrased as follows:
Oṃ9 Venerable Phum, Venerable Thorani and Krungphali, come with your
retinue; to the place let them come, let them enjoy the gift . . . .
After the invocation he sprinkles sacral water on the building site, and scatters
some puffed rice, green peas and sesame seed. For a period of about a quarter
of an hour all ceremonial action stops in order to give the invoked powers the
opportunity to come and enjoy the different gifts. When the specialist is of the
opinion that sufficient time has elapsed, he removes the receptacles with the
gifts for Phaya Nak and indicates where the first hole should be dug, and in
which direction the soil thus removed should be deposited. In order to decide
where this first hole ought to be, he has to find out the exact position of the
great serpent (nak, นาค). He may have to consult a handbook or private notes
inherited from his teacher to determine the serpent’s position.
Two books on Thai ceremonies10 contained information from which Figure
7.2 could be distilled. The year is divided into four equal periods, of three lunar
161
back head
N N
S S
belly tail
Month 4, 5, 6 Month 7, 8, 9
February–May May–August
belly tail
N N
S S
back head
Month 10, 11, 12 Month 1, 2, 3
August–November November–February
months each. In each of these quarters, the nak is in a different position. When
the ritual specialist decides where to dig the first hole in the earth, he must
imagine the nak on the building site. He should not dig where the head of the
nak is; it is believed that such an act would cause the wife of the owner of the
house to die soon. If the first penetration into the earth pierces the tail, it is
almost equally inauspicious: the daughter of the house will kill another human
being and have to flee the community. If the back of the nak is first dug into, the
owner of the house himself will become very ill. It is only through the belly of
the nak that there will be happiness and luck.11 Following these instructions, it
appears that during the months 4, 5 and 6, the first hole should be dug in the
south, in the following quarter the first hole ought to be in the west, from the
tenth till the twelfth month the north is appropriate, whilst during the months
1, 2 and 3 the first hole should be made in the east.
It can thus be noted that the seventh, eighth and ninth months, which are
rather unsuitable for building a house because they form the rainy season, and
work in the fields demands all attention, coincide with a nak in such a position
that the first hole ought to be dug in the west, an inauspicious cardinal point.
162
Similarly, the months during which it is most auspicious to build, namely the
first, second and third lunar months, are those in which the nak is positioned in
such a manner that the first hole has to be dug in the east, the most auspicious
cardinal point.
Different rules govern the direction in which the earth coming from the
holes ought to be deposited. For example, Phya Amman Rajadhon reports
that, when the first hole has to be dug in the south, the spare earth has to be
thrown in a south-easterly direction:
During the three months number 4, 5 and 6, the nak has its head in the west,
its tail in the east, its belly in the south, its back in the north. For the first
digging, start in the, south first and place the loose earth to a southeasterly
direction. Make the poles on which the house will stand lie with their ends
in a southeastern direction.12
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is the proper one. A few drops of an alcoholic beverage and a coin can be added
to this gift. On the bottom of each of the remaining excavations, an areca nut and
some betel leaves suffice as an offering.16 During the night all holes are covered,
and the san phiangta is bared of its white cloth, pillow and umbrella,
The following morning, at sunrise, the holes for the foundation of the
house are uncovered and it is ascertained that no insects or lumps of earth have
fallen in. A new gift can be placed in all the holes, for example, a small coin or a
few leaves of the silver-and-gold leaf plant. The san phiangta is provided again
with its white cloth, pillow, and umbrella, and new food gifts are placed on it.
When the participants in such a ceremony were asked for whom the gifts were
intended, the answer was not unanimous:
The ritual specialist Khim declared that they were for Krungphali (กรุงพาล)
and Phra Phum. An older informant interrupted with the information that
the Venerable In (Indra) was included among the recipients of the gifts.
Further questioning made it clear that no informant was completely certain
of the exact number and nature of the recipients of the gifts; in general they
were those powers who could have a claim on the plot of land on which the
house was built.17
While the gifts to powers like the Venerable Phum, Krungphali and Indra,
that are placed on the san phiangta, can be accompanied by some meat such
as chicken, a duck or a pig’s head, a gift to Nang Mai should be free of meat.
Nang Mai, the female spirit who lives in the wooden posts of which the basic
structure of the home is made, should be placated with some fragrant gifts:
candles, incense, flowers, some bananas and a small coconut.
The main ritual of the second day is the tham khwan or palliation of the
sao aek, the ‘first pole’ of the house. The poles that will support the roof of
the house vertically when the construction will be finished are placed in a
row on the ground and the ritual specialist examines the general shape and
the position of the knots in the wood of each of these pieces of timber. The
pole that seems most attractive and auspicious is placed aside, aligned in the
prescribed direction. A ‘second best’ pole is singled out and placed next to the
sao aek. The remaining supports are ranged next to these two.
16 On reading this, a learned Thai informant remarked that she herself once had to
represent her father in a house-building ceremony in Bangkok, and deposited nine
kinds of semi-precious stones in the first hole (Achan Wipudh Sobhavong, personal
communication, 21 May 1974).
17 Field notes, 15 December 1968.
164
Figure 7.3: The householder offers the gifts for the first hole.
Near the top of the sao aek, the ritual expert fastens a shoot from a banana
plant and a young sugarcane. Later in the day, as soon as the first pole is raised
in its final position, these plants will be set in the yard. If they thrive, it is
interpreted as a good omen; if they die it bodes ill for the inhabitants of the
new house.
Ornaments normally suitable for a woman (namely Nang Mai) are attached
to this pole, for example, a golden belt, earrings, bracelets and a piece of hand-
woven silken material. The ‘second best’ pole can also receive some ornaments,
but these are of markedly less value than those of the sao aek. All the poles that
will support the roof, including the first pole, are given a candle and incense,
some gold leaf can be pressed near their top, and the ritual expert may perfume
them. Finally he places a lotus leaf, a square of red cloth and a white piece of
165
cloth on which he has drawn mystical diagrams on the top of each pole. If he
wishes to simplify the ceremony, he may provide only the sao aek with these
three layers. Diagrams often used for this purpose are the yan trinisinghe (ยันต์
Figure 7.4: The ritual specialist makes the offerings to the other holes.
166
ตรีนิสิงเห),‘three-in-lion diagram’ (see Figure 7.5) and the yan sipsong thit (ยันต์
๑๒ ทิศ) ‘twelve-directions diagram’, as drawn in Figure 7.6.
The builders can now put the supports in the foundation holes and fix the
crossbeams on which later the floor will rest. As soon as the lower framework
of the house stands firm, the sao aek is placed on its appropriate stilt, directly
above where the first hole was dug. At the moment the sao aek is raised into
the air, it is customary for one of the bystanders to raise his (or her) voice and
chant the syllable ‘Ho’, drawn out over a period of up to about five seconds,
improvising on modulations and pitch. This is answered by all the other persons
present with the shout: ‘Hiw’. This custom is also often observed during the
tham khwan ceremonies of persons and at the beginning of a procession. Its
entertaining character is an important aspect and different members of the
audience try to elicit a great response by improving on the solo of a previous
chanter. At the same time there seems to be a more serious undertone; it is
167
Sa
6 1
7 5 2
The 5 5 Ka
4 5 9
3 8
Ti Pha Ti
u na
168
Ka A Ra
Na Sa Me
Ta Sa Na Waa
Ne Sa Thaa
Tha Sa Sa
169
18 Urakhin, ประเพณี ไทย ฉบับพระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], pp. 287–8;
Thongkham and Phit, ตำ�ราพระภูมิ [The Manual for Phra Phum], pp. 18–9 and Thong,
ตำ�ราปลูกบ้านต้ังศาลพระภูมิ [Manual to Erect a House and the San Phra Phum], pp. 26–7.
170
the meaning of the name and the realm over which he is guardian. Thus the
Gandharva, in later Indian epic poetry usually seen as a celestial musician and
in Pali sometimes known in connection with the conception of children, is
well placed as guardian of bridal houses and of houses erected especially for
festive reasons. Similarly, the epithet dhārā in Dāṣadhārā seems appropriate,
dhārā meaning ‘stream, current’. Most names, however, cannot be traced to
proper names in Indian lore.
In the third column of Table 6 the different realms of the Phra Phum are
enumerated. It can be deduced from this column that in the Thai textbooks
the total physical surroundings are divided into nine parts: they include the
main traditional buildings and the major types of land and water. The division
appears somewhat inelegant and artificial as, for example, in the sixth realm,
where rice fields and forests are lumped together. In the expression Phra Phum,
the word ‘Phum’ is not used by the Thais in its literal meaning, ‘earth’, but may
better be translated as ‘guardian’ or ‘tutelary spirit’.
According to a popular myth, all nine Venerable Phum are brothers, sons
of King Thotsarat (ทศราช) and his wife Santhathuk (สันทาทุกข). Other names
recorded for the king are Sokarat (โศกราช) and Kayathat (กายทัศ); the queen is also
known as Sunanthathuk (สุนน ั ทาทุกข) and Manthathukathibodi (มันทาทุกธิบดี).19 All
three Thai versions in the handbooks report that this king ruled over Krungphali
(กรุงพาลี). Thotsarat divided his kingdom into nine realms and gave each of his sons
an area to guard. These nine realms have been enumerated in Table 6.
The myth continues:
Later, the Lord of Krungphali did not live in righteousness and this caused
much unhappiness among the people. The avatāra20 of Phra Narai21 came
down to earth in the form of a small Brahman who came to ask from the
Lord of Krungphali of plot of land, only three steps wide, so that he could
perform a ceremony. The Lord of Krungphali did not hesitate, gave his
permission and to solemnize this he poured udakadhārā.22
[. . .]
19 See ตำ�ราพระภูมิ [The Manual for Phra Phum], p. 17, n. 1 and 2, and ประเพณีไทย ฉบับพระ
ราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], p. 287.
20 An incarnation of a deity on earth, used in particular in relation to Viṣṇu. (M. Monier-
Williams, A Sanskrit-English Dictionary, p. 99.
21 Sanskrit: Nārāyaṇa. In Thailand this name is commonly used to indicate Viṣṇu.
22 Udaka is a ceremonial water-offering, whilst dhārā means ‘stream’ or ‘flow’. This seems
related to the Thai kruat nam, the custom of pouring some water after a religious cer-
emony.
171
As soon as the water flowed, Phra Narai changed himself into Narai with four
heads, and he started to step. With a single stride the whole earth was covered,
and the Lord of Krungphali had to leave and live in a forest in the Himaphan.23
When he set out for this remote region he felt extremely sad and returned to
beg for mercy. Phra Narai told him as solace: ‘From now on, all humans ought
to offer some food at the beginning of their ceremonies to Phra Phum, because
he was the original owner of the earth. When this offer is performed, there will
be happiness . . . ’.24
When this myth was told in Wat Sanchao,25 the mysterious visitor to
King Thotsarat was reported to be one of the former Buddhas.26 After the
immensely powerful Buddha had taken his steps and covered all of the world,
thus dispossessing Thotsarat, the nine sons begged the Buddha to give them
a place of their own. The Buddha assented and allotted to each of the sons
the guardianship of a realm. Chayamongkhon obtained the guardianship of all
residences and homes, and therefore all persons who build a house must make
an offering to this power.
The myth doubtlessly derives from the famous story of Viṣṇu’s deception
of the daitya Bali, known in Indian mythology since Vedic times.27 Viṣṇu, in
the form of a dwarf dispossesses the demon Bali of most of his realm, leaving
Bali only the underworld Pātāla. In the Thai version it is Thotsarat, the king
of Krungphali, who is tricked, in some versions by Viṣṇu, but sometimes by a
Buddha. In all the Thai versions Thotsarat is the owner of Krungphali, which
comprises the whole earth.
The name Thotsarat can be traced to daitya rāja, king of the daitya, and
this is in accordance with the Indian prototype. Krungphali may be derived
from the words krung (กรุง), ‘city’ and the proper name Bali. It appears that
the daitya Bali of the original version became the daitya king of the city Bali. It
is possible that the mistake originated in Cambodia where Bali is called Krŏṅ
23 Sanskrit: Himāvant, lit. having frost or snow, a name often used for the Himalayas.
24 Translated from Urakhin, op. cit., pp. 287–289.
25 Somkhuan Suthichai, 15 November 1968.
26 In Theravada Buddhism usually five Buddhas previous to Siddhārtha Gautama are
known, with their Pali names: Vipassin, Sikhī, Kakusandha, Konagamuni and Kassapa.
Only the latter three were known to the learned informants of Wat Sanchao. Landon
(Siam in Transition, p. 186) also mentions only the last three among the previous
Buddhas.
27 J. Gonda, Aspects of Early Viṣṇuism, pp. 145–146.
172
Pali.28 The Cambodian honorific title krŏṅ may have been misunderstood by
the Thais as referring to krung, ‘city’, ‘metropolis’.
Another name frequently encountered in the ritual of building a house is
Thorani (ธรณี). This word is derived from the Sanskrit dhāraṇī, meaning ‘earth,
soil, ground’, In Thailand the word Thorani is often used with the honorific
title Phra or mae (แม่) ‘mother’. Mae Thorani is known to many villagers in
several different contexts. Most villagers have heard of Mother Thorani in
connection with the story of the life of the Buddha. Before the Lord Buddha
completed his awakening, he was assailed by the evil Māra and his army. In
order to defeat Māra, the Buddha lowered his right hand to the earth and called
the earth to witness of the positive deeds in previous existences (the hand-
gesture known in Sanskrit as bhūmisparśamudrā). Mae Thorani appeared as
the personification of the earth beneath the Buddha, in the form of a beautiful
young lady. She testified for the Buddha by wringing from her tresses of hair
the amount of water that had flowed from pouring water after meritorious
deeds in Buddha’s past existences. The amount of water was so immense that
Māra’s army was drowned in it.
There can be little doubt that the theme of a river of water flowing from
tresses of hair is also based on an ancient Indian story. One of the names of
Śiva is ‘upholder of the river Ganges’. According to the myth, when the rush
of the Ganges fell from heaven Śiva interrupted her course with his matted
locks. In Buddhist lore this theme was taken up to illustrate the Buddha’s
greatness. Many Thai monasteries possess a series of 32 pictures of the life of
the Buddha, and the scene that depicts the lady Thorani out of whose hair
pours the water testifying to the immense amount of the Buddha’s past deeds
is always included.
In the same series of pictures from the life of the Buddha, Phra Thorani
occurs a second time, namely as punisher of the jealous and evil Devadatta.
After Devadatta had made attempts on the life of the Buddha and tried to cause
dissent in the order of monks, Thorani opened up and the earth swallowed him.
The picture usually shows Devadatta, greatly startled, falling through a crack
in the surface of the earth. Probably connected with the story of Devadatta’s
punishment is the custom of thorani san (ธรณีสาร) (Sanskrit: dhāraṇī śānti), the
appeasing of the earth.
The thorani san ceremony is held in order to prevent the earth from opening
up under a person’s feet, namely when something terrible of a deeply polluting
173
174
hills, is considered before selecting a place to build a house.30 However, that the
Thai customs regarding the serpent have been derived from India (probably
indirectly via Cambodia) becomes most likely when we read:
In India, just before a house is built, the astrologer will decide which foun-
dation stone must be laid upon the head of the serpent upholding the world.
The master mason sticks a stake into the appointed spot, so as to ‘fasten
down’ the head of the earth-serpent firmly, and so avoid earthquakes.31
Other ritual details which indicate a link between ancient India and modern
Thai house-building ceremonies can be found in the Gṛhya sūtras. To illustrate
this, a quotation from a translation of the beginning of the fourth kaṇḍika of
the third kaṇḍa of the Pāraskara Gṛhya sūtra is given:
1. Now the building of the house.
2. Let him have his house built on an auspicious day,
3. Into the pits (in which the posts shall be erected) he pours an oblation
with (the words), ‘To the steady one, the earth-demon, svāhā!’
4. He erects the posts.32
30 This aspect of geomancy is discussed, for example, in Eitel’s Principles of the Natural
Science of the Chinese, pp. 48–54.
31 Mircea Eliade, Patterns in Comparative Religion, 1958, p. 380.
32 Translation by H. Oldenberg, The Gṛhya-Sūtras; Rules of Vedic Domestic Ceremonies, Part
1, Sacred Books of the East, Vol. XXIX, p. 345.
33 Porée-Maspero, op. cit., Plate V, opposite p. 584.
175
Avoiding Inauspiciousness
While choosing building materials, preparing the site, and conducted the
rituals of house-building, those concerned should avoid many actions that
are apamongkhon (อปมงคล) (Sanskrit: apamaṅgala), inauspicious. If these
recommendations are not followed, automatically some harm will come to the
inhabitants of the future house. If, for example, a house is inauspiciously ori-
ented, it is believed that eye disease will strike its inhabitants. A possible reason
for this belief can be seen in the idea that a wrongly oriented home obstructs
and offends the sun (khwang tawan ขวางคะวัน). The sun, popularly called tawan
(คะวัน), probably derives its name from the words ta (คา) ‘eye’ and wan (วัน)
‘day’, the ‘eye of the day’. Being struck with eye disease seems a punishment
consequent on offending the ‘eye of the day’. Usually, however, the harmful
effects of breaking a recommendation are vague and unspecific: bad luck will
occur, or somebody in the house may become ill or suffer from nightmares.
When analysing specific rules on the avoidance of inauspicious behaviour,
various aspects can be stressed. Some prescriptions provide clues concerning
the evaluation of different directions and the different parts of the human body.
The ordering of objects, persons, and activities in a horizontal and vertical
plane often indicates such an evaluation. It is not by accident that the magical
drawings are placed on the very top of the supporting poles.
Some recommendations for avoiding that which is apamongkhon can be
traced to associations of semantic character. An example of such avoidance
is the case where a type of wood is not used as timber primarily because the
176
177
T H E P R EC E P TS A N D R I T UA L
178
held in private houses as well as in the monasteries will have the opportunity
to receive the five precepts many times a year. During special days, when
a major religious festival is celebrated, the precepts can be given as often as
several times a day, each time at the beginning of a new ceremony. Whenever
a chapter of monks and a group of laymen assemble for a religious service, the
five precepts can be given, and the order of events at the commencement of the
service seldom varies.
At the outset, before the monks arrive, laymen prepare the dais on which
the members of the Sangha will sit, by placing an image of the Buddha at one
end of the room, and arranging mats and cushions in a single file on the left
hand of the image. When the monks enter, senior monks will sit nearest to the
statue of the Buddha, junior monks furthest away, novices at the end. Where
possible they will be seated in single file, facing the laymen. If there is not
enough space for all monks to sit in single file, they will have to sit two or more
layers deep. In these circumstances the seniority rule is often maintained only
for the first row, those behind being seated wherever there is space.
As soon as the elders among the laymen feel that the ceremony should
begin, a spokesman will call everyone to attention by asking three times in Pali
in a clear voice:
Mayaṃ bhante visuṃ visuṃ rakkhaṇatthāya tisaraṇena saha pañca sīlāni
yācāma.
In the relatively rare cases where only one layman is present to ask for the
precepts, as for example in the ceremony of leaving the Sangha (described in
Chapter VI), the formula is changed to the singular: mayaṃ is changed into
ahaṃ and yācāma into yācāmi.
Bareau, writing about Cambodian religious practices, translates this for-
mula as: ‘O vénérables, nous demandons chacun pour soi les cinq précepts
avec le triple refuge dans un but de protection’.5 The three words visuṃ visuṃ
rakkhaṇatthāya are therefore translated by him as: ‘Each person for himself, in
order to obtain protection’. Presently, after considering some Thai data, I will
suggest an alternative translation of these words.
In central Thailand the five precepts can also be asked for using the shorter
formula: ‘Mayaṃ bhante tisaraṇena saba pañca sīlāni yācāma’. Similar to the
formula above, if only one layman is present, this text should be changed into
the singular. The second formula seems to be often used in urban centres. It
5 A. Bareau, ‘Idées sous-jacentes aux pratiques cultuelles bouddhiques’, in Beiträge zur
Geistesgeschichte Indiens, ed. by G. Oberhammer, 1968, p. 29.
179
is, for example, the only version given by Phaichoet.6 This second formula for
asking the precepts differs from the first one mentioned only in that it omits
the words visuṃ visuṃ rakkhaṇatthāya.
At first sight it could be expected that the more compact formula is used
in preference to the first, it being easier to memorize. However, in rural
regions this second version is only seldom heard. On one occasion when a
lay spokesman accidentally proceeded to ask for the precepts with the second
formula, a senior monk interrupted him and made him recite the first, longer
formula.7 According to this monk, the difference between the two formulae is
substantial. After a layman has received the precepts by way of the formula with
visuṃ visuṃ rakkhaṇatthāya there will come a moment when he who received
them breaks a precept. If that happens, he still retains four of the five precepts;
when he breaks another precept, three remain, and so on. If, however, a person
takes the precepts without the words visuṃ visuṃ rakkhaṇatthāya he will be in
a position where, if he breaks a precept, all five are broken. The reason why the
second formula should be avoided in most circumstances is therefore that it
is believed that the promise resulting from the second formula is much more
difficult to uphold than the promise resulting from the first formula. It is only
in exceptional cases, when all laymen agree that the more solemn promise is
warranted, as on the day that kathiṇa robes are presented when the Lenten
season comes to an end (a ceremony that is described in Chapter IX), that the
second formula should be used.8
In light of this Thai interpretation of the difference between the two meth-
ods of asking for the five precepts, a re-examination of the words visuṃ visuṃ
rakkhaṇatthāya seems warranted. The words visuṃ visuṃ mean: ‘each on his
own’, but can also be translated as: ‘one by one, separately’,9 and rakkhana has,
apart from the meaning ‘keeping, protection, guarding’, also a second mean-
ing: ‘observance’ (especially with relation to the sīla).10 Thus an alternative to
Bareau’s translation: ‘each person on his own for the sake of protection’, may be:
‘for the sake of observing them, one by one, separately’. This alternative transla-
tion corresponds closely with the beliefs of the Thais. It would be interesting to
know whether this alternative translation would also be the most proper one in
180
other regions where they use the formula with visuṃ visuṃ rakkhaṇathāya – in
Cambodia, for example.
In answer to either formula, one of the senior monks takes up an orna-
mental fan, and holding it firmly with the right hand in such a manner that
its oval shape hides his face from the lay people, recites in a clear voice three
times the sentence: namo tassa bhagavato arahato sammā sambuddhassa. This
sentence constitutes the introduction to many Buddhist ceremonies, and can
be translated as ‘Reverence to the Lord who is worthy and fully awakened’.
Immediately after the opening sentence the Three Refuges follow, in which the
members of the community promise to take refuge in the Buddha, the Dharma
and the Sangha. The monk halts after each sentence in order to give the lay
community occasion to repeat after him. When the Three Refuges have been
said three times, the five precepts are prompted and repeated:
Pāṇātatipātā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Adinnādānā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Kāmesu micchācārā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Musāvādā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Surāmeraya majjapamādaṭṭhāna veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
These precepts have sometimes been translated rather carelessly and hurriedly
as ‘I refrain from killing, stealing, wrong sexual conduct, lying and alcohol’.
However, in order to convey the importance of the exact meaning for the
Thais, a more cumbersome translation should be given:
I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from taking life
I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from taking what is not
given
I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from wrong sensuous
pleasure
I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from false speech
I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from intoxicants that cause
a careless frame of mind.
The laymen sit in polite fashion, with the hands joined palm to palm in front of
the chest, the feet folded towards the back. During this interplay between the
one senior monk and all laymen who wish to adhere to the five precepts, the
other monks on the dais are not involved. Some may still smoke or softly talk
to one another in obvious display that this is a matter that does not concern
monks who, after all, are committed to so many more precepts than the five
181
This means: ‘These five precepts lead with good behaviour to bliss, with good
behaviour to wealth and success, they lead with good behaviour to happiness,
therefore [I will] purify my behaviour’. Although virtually nobody in the
audience is able to translate these words, most laymen realize that this is the
moment when they really undertake to follow the precepts. Some will softly
murmur some Pali words that are known to be auspicious, others will remain
quiet. One informant explained that this was the moment during which he
said to himself for how long he would try to observe the precepts, ‘for a few
minutes, a few hours, or even longer’.11 At the last syllable of the word visodhaye,
which is usually drawn out by the officiating monk, all laymen bow their heads
and raise their joined hands to the forehead, and the monk may now lay down
the ornamental fan. From this moment onwards, now that the laymen have
committed themselves, the ceremony proper can proceed, whether it be a
sermon, a consecration of water, or any other religious activity which requires
the presence of both monks and laymen.
From the description of the occasions when and the manner in which
the pañca sīlāni are given by a monk and received by laymen, it is clear that
a function of the ritual of promising to adhere to these precepts is that of
the preparation of the laymen for the ceremony which follows immediately.
Receiving the five precepts may be seen as a ritual cleansing, a purification
that enables the laymen to maximize the benefits of the ceremony. It brings
the laymen out of their secular world into a religious sphere; it moves them
temporarily into a state approaching that of sanctity.
Since the whole verbal exchange takes place in the Pali language it is
justified to ask whether the farmers know the import of their promise to
adhere to these rules. In theory the people could utter the sentences without
182
The five precepts are thus interpreted much more widely than their literal
translation would suggest. They have been built out to form the whole system of
morality. Such views underlie much of the famous book Benchasin Benchatham
183
While it seems plausible to draw the conclusion that the farmers are usually
well aware of the import of the promise to adhere to the five precepts, the
question immediately arising is whether they do try to behave according to
these rules, that is, whether the pañca sīlāni exercise a marked influence on
Thai behaviour.
A crime like murder, armed robbery or rape certainly involves breaking
a precept. If it were possible to prove that crimes involving breaking one or
more of the precepts occur less among Buddhists than among non-Buddhists,
then this could be an indication towards supposing that observance of the
five precepts markedly influences behaviour. Lack of reliable statistical data
regarding crime in rural areas precludes such a line of investigation. Moreover,
12 This work has been translated under the title Five Precepts and Five Ennoblers, 1963.
13 See the ‘Foreword’ to Five Precepts and Five Ennoblers by Phra Sāsanasophon.
14 Translated and paraphrased after a personal communication with Somkhuan Suthichai,
Wat Sanchao.
184
even if such data were available, it would need substantial in-depth interviewing
with criminals and would-be criminals in order to assess to what extent people
abstained from committing a crime through fear of breaking a precept, and to
what extent other considerations, such as fear of social sanctions play a role. It
is necessary, therefore, to investigate other aspects of the situation.
In order to observe whether people in rural Thailand try to adhere to the
five precepts, behaviour that unquestionably implies breaking a precept, but
that does not automatically carry punishment by law, can be investigated.
Examples of such behaviour include gossip, mild deceit, drinking alcoholic
beverages and killing animals.
A community without gossip is almost beyond imagination. Talking about
other people, especially about aspects that these others would like to remain
not generally known is a habit in which many people occasionally indulge. On
no occasion was it noticed that a layman refrained from talking about other
laymen because he was afraid to break one of the five precepts. It would have
been unfortunate for the researcher if gossip had not been available to provide
him with illuminating case histories of misconduct. A notable exception is the
reticence of many laymen to speak ill about a member of the Sangha. Although
the conduct of monks in general can be the subject of conversation, people
generally refrain from discussing the evil deeds of a monk. This restraint,
however, seems to be part of the polite behaviour of ritually inferior towards
ritually superior.
Mild forms of deceit are also part of daily life. A joke played upon an
unsuspecting victim is appreciated by all (except perhaps by the victim); and
whenever goods are sold or traded, some kind of deceit is almost unavoidable
in order to make a profit. These mild forms of deceit are readily engaged in and,
when questioned about the morality of such action, people will readily admit
that they contravene a precept, but this is usually followed by the stipulation
that a farmer cannot live naturally without breaking precepts.
Alcoholic beverages are sold openly, under government monopoly and for
festivals a home-brew is welcome. Strong drink can be consumed in all public
cafes and restaurants and drunken people are no rare sight. Unless an adult male
guest has medical grounds upon which to appeal, it would be insulting to the
host if he declined to share in a proffered drink. To make the appeal that one
tries to observe the precepts would be bad taste indeed. A person who adheres
so strictly to precepts should not mingle in a festive crowd. During some of the
big community ceremonies in rural areas, liquor is drunk by many laymen, even
within the precincts of the monasteries, and many a procession would not be
185
Possibly the evasion would not have been used in conversation with other
monks. The fact that the monk in question was a Westerner may have caused
the old man to be particularly deferential. However special the circumstances,
the fact remains that the man, when choosing to be extra polite, used a
euphemism to describe the profession of fisherman.
Animals bigger than chickens, like pigs and buffaloes, are usually not
slaughtered by farmers. Sometimes, when draught animals are too old to
work, they are permitted to remain on the farm until they die a natural death,
186
but often these big animals are sold to professional butchers. Most farmers
shudder to think about the store of bad karma a butcher accumulates during
his lifetime.
With regard to the question whether Thai people seem intent upon trying
to evade breaking a precept, it must therefore be concluded that around Wat
Sanchao this appears to be the case only with regard to the first precept. People
engage freely in other acts against which there is no legal sanction and which
obviously imply breaking a precept. The general attitude seems to be that full
adherence to the five precepts is not compatible with ordinary daily life and
that people should not be sanctimonious.
The five precepts, while providing an ideal code of behaviour, can be acted
upon or ignored as is expedient. There are people in Thailand who do commit
themselves fully to the pañca sīlāni. There are people, for example, who take
a solemn oath (patiyan ปฐิญาณ) to observe these five precepts. Such people
will be assured of an exceptionally good rebirth and all devout farmers would
gladly follow their example if they were able to. However, farmers can seldom
hope to imitate such people because, in order to follow the precepts properly,
a person should be so wealthy that he can shelter himself from society so that
no impure action or harmful thought will reach him. Realistically the farmer
readily admits that, within a few hours after receiving the five precepts, he
will have broken some of them. This realization may well be a reason for the
preference in rural areas for using the formula containing the words visuṃ
visuṃ rakkhaṇathāya when asking for the pañca sīlāni.
Other people who on ordinary days take great pains to follow the five
precepts (and on special days as many as eight precepts) are the female religious
virtuosi, the mae chi (แม่ชี), women who shave their heads, who dress in white
robes and usually live a secluded life in the shadow of a monastery.16 Again, a
woman must be rather wealthy to be able to afford such a retreat from society.
The marked exception in the easy-going attitude towards minor offences
against the five precepts is the behaviour with respect to killing animals bigger
than insects. In light of the reasoning above, it can be hypothesized that it is
not for fear of breaking a precept that people refrain from killing animals or are
16 There is a tendency in the literature to describe the white-robed women as people who
continuously follow the eight precepts (for example, Bunnag, Buddhist Monk, Buddhist
Layman, p. 88). This is not borne out by data from around Ratburi. Whilst the white-
robed women do join the other devout laymen on special days to observe the eight pre-
cepts for one day and one night, on ordinary days they try to adhere to the five precepts,
a task that is difficult enough when one takes the strict interpretation of the Thais into
account.
187
rather embarrassed about doing so. After all, there is no apparent reluctance to
break other precepts. The main reason why the killing of animals is surrounded
with manifestations of guilt feelings appears to lie in the belief in the karmic
repercussions of the killing act. The sanctions are clearly outlined in Buddhist
lore, and they can hardly be ignored. The popular Jātaka stories abound with
examples of extreme suffering that is ascribed to the fact that the person who is
afflicted had in a former life killed an animal. Other stories deal with the great
happiness that results from saving an animal from death. The axioms regarding
rebirth, which do not exclude the possibility that a human can be reborn in the
form of an animal such as chicken, or a dog, certainly add to the uneasiness
with regard to the act of killing animals of that size.
Moreover, most adult Thais will be aware of the story of Phra Malai, the
famous monk who, on the way to visit Indra, has the opportunity to inspect the
different kinds of hell.17 This tale is sometimes recited as part of the elaborate
death ceremonies. Most Thais will know about Phra Malai through observing
pictures in monasteries, because the details of the horrors seen by Phra Malai
in the seven different hells are a recurrent theme in pictorial art. One of the
seven hells is reserved solely for people who had killed animals, and this hell is
depicted as a place where creatures with human bodies but heads that resemble
those of buffaloes, cats, dogs, chickens, and ducks, suffer agonising torture.
Therefore it is plausible that fear of karmic ill-effects, rather than fear of
breaking a precept, is responsible for the attitudes towards the first precept. The
fact that farmers are often obliged to kill animals as part of the circumstances in
rural areas can be seen as a source of guilt feelings. There are farmers who feel
that they will never be able to escape their poor lot, who sense that they will
probably never be reborn in better circumstances, because the farmer’s way of
life includes killing animals.
While the five precepts were originally probably intended to be given to
a layman in order to initiate him into the Buddhist faith, the initiation aspect
was bound to become less important in a country like Thailand, where since
time immemorial most inhabitants have been born Buddhists. There is one
instance where the initiation aspect of the ritual of asking for the five precepts
seems to be recognizable. This is immediately after a man has left the Sangha,
described in Chapter VI.
17 The theme of a visit of a mortal being to the heaven of Indra is quite common in Buddhist
literature (see: Malalasekera, Dictionary of Pali Proper Names, Vol. II, p. 963). The poem
of Malai (Pali: Maleyya) was written in the reign of king Boromokot (1733–1758) by the
king’s eldest son.
188
It has been observed that the ritual of asking for the five precepts occurs
usually at the commencement of a ceremony whenever a group of monks and
a group of laymen assemble. This ritual contains many signs pointing to the
idea that it can be interpreted as a rite of purification, performed to prepare
the laymen for the ceremony at hand. Exegetical details show clearly that each
precept is interpreted as widely as possible. The emphasis on the idea that the
five precepts are very difficult and hard to follow corresponds to a stress on the
sacredness of the moment of taking the promise to adhere to the precepts; its
function can be seen to be to accentuate the cleansing qualities of the ritual.
While the scope and meaning of the pañca sīlāni are aggrandized for ritual
purposes, the precepts cannot retain much practical meaning for daily non-
ceremonial life. Therefore, statements that the five precepts are ‘the minimum
duties of a householder’,18 or ‘the moral code of Buddhism’,19 while in an
ideal sense they are true, are not applicable for rural Thailand without major
qualification.
189
When only one lay person is present to receive the precepts, the formula has
to be changed from plural to singular, thus, as with the request for the five
precepts, mayaṃ has to be changed to ahaṃ and yācāma to yācāmi. The words
aṭṭhanga samannāgata uposatha are typically used in the canon to indicate the
eight precepts20 and the formula can therefore be translated as: ‘Sir, we ask for
the Three Refuges with the Eight Precepts.’
The preliminary sentences prompted by the monk and repeated by the
lay people are identical with those in the ritual of the five precepts mentioned
earlier in this chapter. When the time arrives for the eight precepts to be
prompted, the monk recites solemnly, leaving a short pause after each sentence
in which the laymen can repeat:
Pānātipātā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Adinnādānā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Abrahmacariyā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Musāvādā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Surāmeraya majjapamādaṭṭhāna veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Vikālabhojana veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Naccagītavāditavisūkadassanā mālāgandhavilepanadhāraṇana-
vibhusanatthana veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi
Uccāsayanā mahāsayanā veramaṇī sikkhāpadaṃ samādiyāmi.
Most of the devout laymen who participate in this ceremony are well aware of
the exact translation of these sentences:
190
There are two aspects of this ritual that are often not mentioned in the literature
dealing with the eight precepts. In the first place it cannot be said that the eight
precepts are simply the five plus three additional rules, for the wording and the
meaning of the third rule of the eight precepts differs from the third rule in the
five precepts. Whilst ordinary laymen abstain from wrong sensuous pleasure
(kāmesu micchācārā), the person who takes the eight precepts promises to be
chaste. The second aspect that is not generally known is that the laymen engage
to observe their eight precepts for a definite period of time. Immediately after
the eighth rule they repeat the following sentence:
Translated:
I undertake to observe in harmony during this day and this night these eight
precepts that have been designed by the wisdom of the Buddha.
involved is much greater and also because many laymen are present to observe
while the eight precepts are requested. While outside the Lenten period rela-
tively few persons become ubasok or ubasika, as soon as phansa draws near, so
many people wish to adhere to the eight precepts that the temple is sometimes
hardly spacious enough to hold them all. For Wat Sanchao this is illustrated in
Table 7. From this table it can be seen that during the eight days of religious
observance preceding the Lenten season an average of 6.4 persons took the
eight precepts, while the average during phansa was 34.7 persons. Although
there are no reliable statistical data regarding the number of people who take
the eight precepts in other communities, there is no reason why the picture
should be different from that obtained in Wat Sanchao in 1968.
In order to understand the difference between taking the eight precepts
during phansa and following this ritual outside the Lenten season, it is necessary
to examine certain economic aspects of the relationship between monks and
laymen. For a regular food supply, the inhabitants of a monastery depend on
donations from laymen. Many members of the lay community are aware of the
fact that it would reflect unfavourably on themselves if there were a shortage of
victuals in the monastery. Every day the food supply must reach the monastery
early in the morning because, if the monks and novices are not fed properly
before noon, they are obliged by their code of life to go hungry until the
following day.
The ordinary way in which provisions reach the precincts of the monastery
is via the ‘begging’ of the monks. During most mornings of the year, monks,
novices and dek wat walk past the houses of the laymen, carrying containers in
which food offerings can be placed.
If a householder invites a chapter of monks to perform a ceremony during
the morning hours, he knows that the invited monks, by accepting the invita-
tion, may be prevented from collecting food early in the day, or that they will
not be able to join the communal meal at their monastery. It is imperative,
therefore, that the layman who arranges for a group of monks to chant Pali
texts be clear in his arrangements so as to ensure that the food supply to the
monastery will not be adversely affected. When he issues the invitation to the
abbot and to the individual monks he wishes to join the chapter, he should
specify whether the monks should join the begging round as usual, or whether
there will be a special food donation in the house, during which ample pro-
visions will be offered that can be taken back to the monastery. In the latter
event, begging bowls and other food containers are brought along by dek wat
and these will be filled during the recitation of the sacred texts. Part of this food
193
will be eaten by the monks while they are in the house; the remainder is taken
back to the monastery, sometimes to be included in the second morning meal
of the members of the Sangha, but, if it is already past midday by the time the
monks return, in any case to feed the dek wat and the animals that roam around
freely in the monastery grounds.
Food-giving is therefore often part of the ordinary proceedings when monks
perform rituals in the houses of lay persons. It seems to be little known in the
literature that there exists in Thailand a special elaborate ceremony in which the
donation of food is performed in such a manner that a much greater amount of
beneficial karma is accrued than in ordinary circumstances. This ceremony is
often referred to in Wat Sanchao with the rather general term thawai sangkhathan
(ถวายสงฆทาน). The word thawai means ‘to present, to donate’ and sangkhathan
can be traced to Sangha and dāna, so that the whole expression can thus be
translated as ‘to present a gift to the Sangha’.
Because the ritual centres around a meal, and monks are not allowed
to eat after noon, thawai sangkhathan always takes place in the morning. The
minimum number of monks present is four, 21 because this is the minimum
number of monks required to make a valid legal decision in the name of
the Sangha.22 As soon as all the monks taking part are seated and the five
precepts have been recited, a layman who knows the proper formula offers
the food gifts amassed in front of the monks with the words:
Imāni mayaṃ bhante bhattāni saparivārāni bhikkhusaṃghassa oṇojayāma;
sādhu no bhante bhikkhusaṃgho imaani bhattāni saparivārāni paṭigganhātu
amhākaṃ dīgharattaṃ hitāya sukhāya.
This is the standard formula for thawai sangkhathan23 that can be translated as
follows:
We give as a present these foods and paraphernalia to the community of
monks; may the community of monks accept from us these foods and para
phernalia with the word sādhu to our enduring benefit and happiness.
194
Table 7: Number of people receiving the eight precepts in Wat Sanchao from 11
May 1968 until 28 October 1968
Date Men Women Total Remarks
May 11 3 3 6
May 19 2 2 4
May 26 2 4 6
June 3 2 2 4
June 10 2 7 9
June 18 2 5 7
June 24 2 6 8
July 2 2 5 7
July 9 20 29 49 This, the fifteenth day of the
waxing half of the eighth lunar
month, was the beginning of
phansa.
July 17 — — 29 A dash indicates that the
fieldwork data do not provide
an exact number.
July 24 — — 27
August 1 — — 22
August 8 10 16 26
August 16 13 16 29
August 22 13 24 37 The contingent of ubasika
was boosted by the visit of
eight women from another
community.
August 30 14 15 29
September 6 — — 30 The fifteenth day of the waxing
half of the eleventh lunar
month, the end of phansa.
September 14 — — 28
September 21 20 23 43
September 29 17 28 45
October 6 — — 59
October 14 — — 45 Although phansa is over, the
religious fervour lasts until the
kathin festival.
October 21 — — 10
October 28 — — 11
195
The leader of the chapter of monks questions his fellow monks in Pali whether
or not they can accept the gifts, and then asks them to indicate their agreement.
Invariably all monks answer in unison: ‘Sādhu’ (the Pali exclamation that
indicates approval).
The key to understanding the difference between an ordinary food offering
and a thawai sangkhathan lies in the expression ‘foods and paraphernalia’. It is
understood by all parties concerned that everything used during the meal of
the monks is included in the gift: the plates from which they eat, the vessels
that contain food, glasses, cutlery, even the mats on which the monks sit, and
the spittoons used. It is customary that the person who performs a private
thawai sangkhathan at home purchases these goods especially for this occasion
and takes care that only things of very good quality are used. This ritual can
therefore represent a great expenditure. It is believed that the merit resulting
from this ritual may greatly increase the life span of a person, and consequently
it is mostly older people who are interested in performing it.
Apart from such a relatively rare, privately held thawai sangkhathan the
community can also perform this ceremony to present food and paraphernalia
in the monastery, and in central Thailand it is a regularly recurring ritual on
wan phra during the Lenten season. On these days, the monks do not have to
collect food. Instead, early in the morning, laymen come to the monastery in
great numbers, laden with food so that they can take part in a collective thawai
sangkhathan. This differs from the ‘private’ ritual in several respects.
Firstly, there is no main sponsor for the service in the monastery; anybody
can bring food and join in the beneficial karma that results. In the second place,
the ceremony is not held in a private home, but takes place as part of the rituals
of wan phra in the communal monastery. Often the most spacious assembly
hall is needed to house all participants. Thirdly, the ‘paraphernalia’ that are
used during the ceremony and donated with the food to the Sangha are not
especially purchased for this occasion, but are borrowed from the monastery
stores itself. Thus the expense for the lay participants amounts to nothing more
than the food donated. The communal thawai sangkhathan does not bring an
individual the massive dose of merit he gains from the privately sponsored
ritual. The use of the thawai sangkhathan formula is, however, not merely a
means to accentuate an atmosphere of solemnity. It may be seen as a mixing of
the wealth that has been accumulated in the communal monastery store with
that of the present. The moment when the monks accept the accumulated
food and the many objects in and on which this is displayed may be seen as a
celebration of the strength and benefits of communality.
196
24 For a wealth of details with regard to the texts used by laymen, see Somchit, op. cit., pp.
62–106.
25 This is the traditional method of deciding whether a new day has started. This method
is also used by monks; during phansa, monks must wait until they can discern the small
lines in their palms before setting out collecting food. If they left earlier, they would feel
that they were breaking the rule that they should stay in their own monastery every night
during the Lenten season.
198
ample opportunity to meet friends, exchange news, and look at other members
of the community. The fact that wan phra during the Lenten season has such
importance for the whole of the community cannot fail but have an impact
on the number of people who wish to take the eight precepts. It is part of the
general intensifying of religious activities during this part of the year that the
number of ubasok and ubasika increases so markedly. There are laymen who
try to follow the eight precepts on every wan phra of the Lenten season, an
accomplishment only few manage and which is believed to assure great rewards
in a coming rebirth. These persons feel that they are observing the lay version
of the monks’ phansa. In general, though, taking the eight precepts during the
Lenten season implies a taking part in the intensive generation of beneficial
karma.
Outside the Lenten season, wan phra often hardly differs from any ordinary
day in a rural monastery. There are very few monks, there is no communal
food offering, the monks do not chant as a chapter in the bot, and no sermons
are held. Many laymen feel that it is not attractive to follow the eight precepts
under such circumstances.
Throughout the year, people younger than 40 years of age seldom adhere
to the eight vows. Although there is no rule which forbids young people to
become ubasok and ubasika, nobody expects them to take the eight precepts.
Of all the persons recorded in Table 7, there was only a single case of a young
person taking part. This was a woman in her early twenties who accompanied
her mother for personal reasons. All others were of ripe age. A retreat from the
world does not correspond with the life of a young adult. Young people are
expected to be concerned about their work, their children, the organization of an
economical household, and the solving of domestic problems. Circumstances
prevent young people from dedicating themselves to asceticism for a whole day
and a whole night. Moreover, their minds are believed still to be too capricious
and too alive, and their interests too earthly. Only those whose children have
grown up, who are not capable of much manual work, and whose passions
have calmed possess the qualifications for the communal retreat. Moreover,
the older people become, the more they will realize that death approaches. The
increasing awareness of the finality of the present life is often an incentive to
grasp opportunities to obtain beneficial karma so that a good future in the next
life becomes more likely,
Life as ubasok and ubasika is very attractive to some older people. It brings
persons together who have their age and memories in common. During the
periods of fasting, recitation, meditations and discussions of religious nature,
199
discomfort is shared, a bond can be welded, and sincere friendship can result.
There are few opportunities for older people to regularly meet their contempo-
raries outside the monastery, for the households lie scattered about along the
waterways and people do not readily visit other compounds unless they have a
good and generally accepted reason.
under a belt in such a way as to form loose ‘trousers’. Young women are forced
by their clothing to sit with both legs folded on one side, the knees pressed
together, while the clothing of older women permits them to sit on their
haunches with the knees wide apart, or to sit cross-legged, in the manner of
men. Upon reaching menopause, a woman becomes ‘less female’ and needs
no longer behave in the formal manner required from a younger member of
her sex. In this respect it is interesting to note which new types of clothing
were accepted in the late 1960s in rural areas for young ladies who had access
to new fashions. Slacks were considered modern, becoming in a young girl
who had been in Bangkok, and they could be so tight that they accentuated the
shape of the leg. The short skirt was only proper for schoolgirls; a girl of the age
of 14 onwards could no longer wear them, according to Wat Sanchao public
opinion. Shorts were regarded as decidedly improper and the mini-skirt would
have been classed as much too daring. Older ladies who wished to be dressed
up in the most modern international fashion could wear skirts as the fashion
prescribed; in 1968 this was well above the knee.
The great number of ubasika should therefore not be interpreted as a devia-
tion from the usual reluctance to let women participate in religious knowledge,
but should be seen instead as an indication of a change of status of women past
childbearing age.
and this rule of conduct is handed down to all married couples. An interesting
parallel is discernible in Indian literature. In Indian history it seems to have
been the rule that on Parvan days, which correspond with the Thai wan phra,
one should be chaste.26
The sixth precept, abstinence from taking food at the wrong time, is inter-
preted in the same manner as the thirty-seventh pācittiyā rule of the monks.27
Until noon the ubasok and ubasika can partake of a meal. Their behaviour dur-
ing their pre-afternoon meal is a good imitation of that of the monks: all avoid
demonstrating greed, items of food are offered politely to a neighbour, nobody
asks for rice or sauce for personal use, nobody speaks with the mouth full and
all prevent smacking the lips while eating. After the meal is over they can com-
plete their imitation of monastic behaviour by raising the hands and chanting
in unison the same Pali texts that monks recite after a meal. In the afternoon
and during the night, the ubasok and ubasika may consume tea, coffee or soft
drinks, and most of them have taken the precaution to bring sufficient money
to be able to purchase these refreshments.
The seventh rule that forbids make-up, ornaments, dancing, music, theatre,
and the like is usually not difficult to follow. When there is no major entertain-
ment in the precincts of the monastery itself there is hardly occasion to break
this precept. However, when entertainment is foremost, on days of important
cremations for example, the rule is often interpreted in a somewhat relaxed
manner, again in imitation of the monks. Ubasok and ubasika are often of the
opinion that they do not have to hide from a film, shadow theatre, or acrobatics
when these take place in the monastery grounds; as long as they keep away
from the crowd they may take note of such events from the safe distance of
their gathering hall. The rule is interpreted to mean: do not dance or enjoy
yourself in an unrestrained manner, and this interpretation closely follows the
accepted monastic discipline.
The eighth and last precept is very easy to follow. In their own homes rural
people do not possess high beds. Most individuals sleep on a mat rolled out on
the appropriate portion of the floor, a rich farmer may spread out a mattress
filled with kapok. Therefore, the ubasok and ubasika do not have to modify
26 Mention of this, for example, is made in the Manusmṛti (111, 45), and in the Mahābhārata
(XIII, 104, 89). When Monier-Williams translated the word Parva-gāmin as ‘He who
approaches his wife’ (A Sanskrit-English Dictionary, p. 609) he may not have been aware
of this rule, otherwise the translation would probably have been: ‘He who approaches his
wife on a wrong day’, or words to that effect.
27 Ñāṇamoli, The Pāṭimokkha, pp. 54–5.
202
their usual sleeping habits; a mat spread out on the floor of their gathering hall
provides a comfortable sleeping place.
Strictly speaking, there is no obligation for the laymen to remain within
the precincts of the monastery during the time they follow the eight precepts.
Indeed, sometimes there are devout laymen who return home because they
prefer to sleep in the trusted atmosphere of their own house. The majority of
older laymen frown upon this practice. It is seen as giving in to a weakness,
but above all it undermines the communal effort of those who stay the full
period in the monastery. Although, in theory, a layman can observe the eight
precepts at home, most devout persons maintain that in practice it is hardly
possible to do so. The risks of becoming involved in domestic life, the difficulty
of refraining from listening to idle talk, and the problem of staying away from
the evening meal, or refraining from feelings of annoyance or a quarrel are
of such magnitude that the advice of conscientious laymen is that the eight
precepts can only be safely observed in the guarded and sacred surroundings
of the monastery, with the moral support of the fellow devotees.
The eight precepts have been shown to form a completely different complex
of norms and behaviour from that of the five precepts. Some difference existed
already in the times of early Buddhism. A document that goes back to the
fifth century A.D. makes a clear division between the ritual ordination of the
five precepts, and the period of retreat for older people who follow the eight
vows.28 While the ceremony of receiving the five precepts, after it was adopted
in Thailand, has taken on many of the characteristics of a purification ritual,
the manner of adherence to the eight precepts appears to have been preserved
almost in an unchanged form from the early times of Buddhism.
203
of a fully-fledged monk the ten precepts are also recited in an early part of the
ritual, and this is often regarded as the passing of the novice stage.
An aspirant novice requests to be prompted with the ten precepts with
the words: ‘Ahaṃ bhante saranasīlaṃ yācāmi’, or: ‘I, sir, ask for the Refuges
and the Precepts’. After the Refuges have been prompted and repeated by
the candidate, the ten precepts follow. The first six precepts are identical in
wording with the first six of the eight precepts, but from the seventh precept
onwards the wording is as follows:
In translation:
7. I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from dancing, music
and visiting shows
8. I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from flowers, make-up,
the wearing of ornaments and decorations
9. I undertake [to observe| the rule of abstinence from a tall, high
sleeping place
10. I undertake [to observe] the rule of abstinence from receiving gold or
silver.
As with the ritual of promising to adhere to the eight precepts, the candidate
solemnly states that he intends to follow them, but in this case no time limit
is indicated. The Pali words are: ‘Imāni dasa sikkhāpadāni samādiyāmi’, or
simply: ‘These ten precepts I undertake (to observe)’.
A comparison of the wording of the eight and the ten precepts reveals that
(7) and (8) of the dasa sikkhāpadāni combined correspond with the seventh
of the eight precepts. The ninth precept is identical with the final resolution
of the ubasok and ubasika. Strictly speaking the ten precepts only add one rule
to those of the devout laymen: the abstinence from receiving gold or silver.
However little may seem the difference between the wording of the eight and
the ten precepts may seem, the actual implications show a vast gap between the
two formulae.
The eight precepts are followed for one day and one night; the ten vows
carry no time limit. Novices are expected to adhere to their vows continuously,
204
and whenever they feel that they have broken a precept they can go to any
monk, kneel down and ask for the ten precepts anew. In actuality novices are
not so preoccupied with the exact interpretation of precepts as laymen who
follow eight precepts. The reason for this lies partly in the youthfulness of
most novices but also in the fact that novices follow the example of the monks
in so many details that they may safely surmise that they have more than
followed just ten precepts. As members of the Sangha they live permanently in
a monastery, they wear the yellow robes that set them apart from all lay folk,
their shaven heads remind at all times that here are people set apart in society.
Novices live in the shadow of the monks, and their daily behaviour is more an
imitation of monastic comportment than a direct result of carefully analysing
the import of the ten precepts.
From the Buddhist tradition the Thais thus received three distinct numbers
of precepts: the five, the eight and the ten vows. It has been argued that the
function of these different groups of moral rules may well have changed
considerably during the many centuries that have elapsed since Buddhism was
introduced in the region. Such a change has been suggested especially with
regard to the five precepts. Originally probably part of an initiation ritual, they
appear in rural Thailand to form some kind of purification ceremony. The
eight precepts as well as the ten precepts appear to have retained more of their
original meaning. The eight precepts are designed for older people to go into
retreat for a specific period of time, whilst the ten precepts are firmly linked to
the full monastic discipline of the members of the Sangha.
It has been demonstrated that it is wrong to apply simple mathematics to
these three numbers. It may not be said that the eight precepts are the five plus
three additional precepts,30 or that the ten precepts add two to the eight. The
subtle distinctions in the wording of the formulae surrounding the promises
to adhere to any of these sets of moral rules point to the individual characters
of each type. The functions of the rituals appear to be quite distinct, and the
separateness goes back to of distinctions that were already recognized in early
Buddhism.
30 This inaccurate description of the eight precepts has crept into many otherwise very
scholarly books; such as Bunnag, Buddhist Monk, Buddhist Layman, p. 107, et passim.
205
T he really poor farmer can take part only in very few ceremonies.
Sometimes he has the chance to witness an ordination procession
or a kathin cortege on its way to a monastery, and he is able to earn
a minute share in the beneficial karma emanating from such an occasion by
lifting his hands respectfully while saying: ‘anumodana sādhu’. This Pali formula
means ‘I approve’, or ‘Assent indeed’. Other common ways of obtaining some
good karma without much financial outlay are attending a sermon, listening
to the chants of the monks, assisting a monk in the pursuit of his duties, or
offering relief to travellers by placing a pot of fresh water at the side of a path.
In general, however, it is accepted that the amount of beneficial karma that a
person gains is directly related to the cost.1
Farmers who can afford it often spend hundreds and sometimes thousands
of baht during a series of varied events that all are intended to increase good
karma. Some rich farmers grasp every opportunity to contribute food for
the upkeep of the monastery and on ordinary evenings they may tune their
transistor radio to a station that transmits a sermon. In order to obtain the
optimum amount of good karma, he takes care to behave in a suitable manner
while listening to the broadcast of a famous monk. It is not unusual to see a
villager sitting in front of his radio, listening to a sermon with his hands raised
politely and his feet folded behind.
There are wealthy persons who readily join friends and family whenever
they are invited to take part in a religious ceremony in their houses, especially
if those friends and relatives can be depended upon to return the gesture in
the future. They are also glad to take part in many communal ceremonies in
the nearby monastery and to join excursions for religious purposes to other
1 As noted before, this has also been remarked by Hanks, ‘Merit and Power in the Thai
Social Order’, 1962.
206
Beneficial activities during which only a small number of people are involved
An individual can accumulate good karma by living a morally just life. For the
Thai Buddhist this means behaving according to the five precepts, even if only
for a short period. Very few farmers will hope to be able to follow these precepts
because they cannot afford to abandon agricultural pursuits and also they may
be reluctant to forego the many pleasant aspects of social life that a proper
adherence to the five precepts would entail. A person can also gain merit by
concentrating on sacred Pali words and meditating. This concentration is not
reserved for monks, ubasok and ubasika, but can be practised by all laymen.
Especially those who at some stage of their lives have been members of the
Sangha for a prolonged period may have acquired the habit of meditating for a
while at night, just before lying down to sleep. This practice usually consists of
repeating a few sacred words while breathing deeply and calmly. Not only does
the custom of meditation carry some beneficial karma that will have an effect
at some unknown time in the future; it is believed to have an immediate effect
as well in that it helps a person to sleep soundly without evil dreams.2
Another certain method of obtaining merit is the practice of munificence.
At sunrise on all mornings when there is no special food offering in the
monastery, members of the order leave their monastery in order to offer laymen
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the opportunity to donate food. Any layman who thus helps in the upkeep of
the monastery obtains a good amount of merit. However, in order to ensure that
he obtains the maximum benefit, he must take care to behave in an exemplary
fashion during the presentation of food. The rice should be well cooked and
brought from the house in a clean container. Many families possess a copper
or silver vessel that is reserved for such occasions. The person who donates
the food should be reasonably well dressed; in rural regions work clothes, as
long as they are clean, are considered to be quite proper. An adult man will also
arrange a cotton phakhaoma over the left shoulder as befits a ritual occasion.
Thus attired he awaits the approach of the monks. When they are in sight, he
may squat down, lift the rice container to the level of his forehead, and softly
say: ‘Nibbāna paccayo hotu’, or ‘May it be a factor in reaching nibbāna’. In the
literate Buddhist tradition the concept nibbāna is equated with the extinction of
all passion, anger and ignorance. In rural, animistic Buddhism it means ultimate
bliss, a total happiness without end. The farmers do not really aspire to reach
nibbāna; they are aware of their firm links with daily life and the formula is used
to move a little in the direction of nibbāna by being reborn in more favourable
circumstances than the present existence.
A more elaborate formula that can be said before offering rice to the monks
consists of the following sentence, which is repeated three times: ‘Sudinnaṃ
vata me dānaṃ āsavakkhayāvahaṃ hotu’ or ‘May this well-given donation
lead to the extinction of the āsavas’.3 The concept ‘extinction of the āsavas’ is
also well known in scriptural Buddhism and usually it refers especially to the
obtaining of arahant-ship.4 In this case again, the farmers are likely to ignore
the exact meaning of the words and to believe the formula to be of general
beneficial impact. If a layman cannot remember such formulae he can use any
other Pali words that come up in his mind, or say something appropriate in
Thai. After the formula he will rise to his feet and make sure that he approaches
the monk without wearing any footwear. It would be wrong to have the feet
clad whilst the monk is obliged by the rules of his order to go barefooted when
collecting food. While he deposits some rice in the begging bowl of a monk,
the farmer usually refrains from talking; it is only when he has something
urgent to communicate that he speaks, but without raising his voice.
The very poor farmer who has little to eat for himself and his family may
add a piece of salt to the rice because rice alone is considered too frugal a gift
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to the members of the Sangha. Most farmers place a piece of fish, some soup,
a sauce, vegetables, some fruit or a sweetmeat, either on top of the rice in the
begging bowl (from where the monk will transfer it before he gives the next
layman a chance to donate) or directly in the food containers which the dek
wat bring along for that purpose. In some areas where monks collect food
by paddling in a small boat from house to house, the begging bowl is placed
ornamentally in the bow, together with some containers for soups and sauces.
Gifts to the members of the Sangha are the preferred form of munificence,
but a certain amount of beneficial karma is also attached to giving to fellow
laymen. Therefore a person acquires merit by giving alms to beggars and by
donating to charitable institutions. It must be understood that the practice
of donating is not reserved for laymen only; a monk accumulates beneficial
karma in the same manner every time he gives a book or an amulet to laymen
or fellow monks.
209
especially if inexperienced monks are among this small number, the ceremony
will lack impressiveness. On the other hand, if a great number are invited,
the householder will strain the resources of his household, and the house
itself may not provide adequate space for so many monks and their audience.
Another consideration is the fact that most ceremonies require the presence of
an uneven number of monks. The head of the family therefore usually decides
to invite seven, nine, eleven, thirteen or even more monks to come and chant.
An exception to the rule regarding the number of monks occurs at the time
immediately after a person has died; on such inauspicious occasions a chapter of
four monks can be invited to chant, with others, the story of Phra Malai. Uneven
numbers are often considered more auspicious than even. A ladder ought to
possess an uneven number of rungs, lest ghosts should climb it. Similarly, it is
reported of some Thais that they believe that an uneven number of shouts from
a gecko bodes well, whereas an even number is considered a bad omen.
Secondly, the head of the family has to decide which members of the
Sangha he will invite. If any close relatives are members of the order, or if the
householder is very friendly with certain monks, these will have to receive
a personal invitation. After they have been contacted and have agreed to be
present, the householder calculates how many are still needed to make up
the full chapter and customarily he goes to the nearest monastery to request
the abbot to send the number of monks needed. It is part of the duties of an
abbot to select monks for these chanting sessions in private homes. Since these
recitations are often generously rewarded with presents, invitations are much
sought after and the abbot usually rotates the open invitations in a manner that
ensures that each experienced monk obtains a fair share in the gifts.
If the chanting is to take place during the morning, the household must
arrange for the preparation of a meal for all the monks and laymen who are
expected to attend. Even if the chanting takes place in the afternoon the
householder must reckon on great expense, because then the meal will be held
on the following morning. Most rural households do not possess sufficient
implements to prepare and serve food for more than a dozen persons, and
the householder usually borrows pots and pans, spoons, and plates from the
nearest monastery. Most monasteries possess a great amount of kitchenware,
the accumulation of many donations. They are regarded as communal property
of which the monks are but the custodians. One monk is often in charge of
all such goods and he keeps a record of all articles borrowed by laymen or
by neighbouring monasteries. Any goods that are damaged or lost should be
replaced by the borrower.
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As soon as the five precepts have been repeated, the leader of the chapter
of monks begins the chanting session and all monks raise their hands palm-
to-palm to chest level, holding the sai sin between the index finger and thumb.
The monks usually chant the auspicious texts that can be found in the Suatmon
Chet Tamnan. The laymen appreciate it when the monks chant in loud voices,
and the small house on stilts may vibrate with the rhythmical sonorous sound
of the sacred words. It is believed that beneficial, protective power is emitted by
the monks as they chant the Pali texts and that this travels through the cotton
thread. This power is reinforced by the Buddha image and causes the water to
be charged.
The use of the sai sin and the bowl of water is typical of ceremonies during
which monks chant in private homes. Phya Anuman Rajadhon likens the cotton
thread to an electric wire, within the orbit of which everything is consecrated.6
When the monks chant similar texts for laymen within the precincts of the
monastery, the sacred cord is not employed to channel the power of the monks.
A likely reason for this may be that a monastery is per se sacred ground and
it is so frequently the scene of Buddhist chanting and meditation that it may
212
7 The matum tree is the Aegle marmelos, the bael-fruit tree which has well-known me-
dicinal value (McFarland’s Thai-English Dictionary, p. 635); the mayom is Phyllanthus
distichus, the star gooseberry tree, of which the fruit is commonly used for pickling and
the roots are used in some medicines (McFarland, ibid., p. 638).
213
of a close link between themselves and this particular monastery. Their feeling
can be called joint-proprietary and – while recognizing that there are occasions
when the monks cannot allow laymen near, such as during sadaeng abat,
during the recitation of the Pāṭimokkha, and while the monks meditate – they
know that the monastery is theirs. It is open to lay visitors at almost any time
of the day or night. The lay people often realize that the monastery is totally
dependent upon them, and therefore it is considered not more than proper that
they are always able to influence its organization. All decisions concerning the
future of the monastery are taken after consultation with the older members of
the lay community.
Those attending ceremonies on a regular wan phra are almost invariably
people who ‘belong to’ the monastery. Each year there occur some major
rituals in the monastery during which almost the whole sustaining population
comes to attend the morning service and the other communal rituals that then
take place. The most important annual ceremonies have been set out in Table
8. These major festivals are usually marked by a solemn public food offering
that is followed by a ritual appropriate to the occasion.
Makhabucha has been established relatively recently as a national Buddhist
festival. It was only during the reign of King Mongkut (r.1851–1868) that
this day was chosen to commemorate the miraculous meeting of monks
during which the Buddha gave the Pāṭimokkha to the order.8 Its relatively
recent introduction, or possibly its timing during the religiously ‘slack’ period,
may be a reason why this festival seems more popular in urban areas than in
rural Thailand. Kingshill reports for a community in northern Thailand that
Makhabucha was not celebrated at all during the year of research.9
During the month of April traditionally all Thais used to celebrate New Year
in a festival known as Songkran. However, since 1941 the Thai government has
brought the beginning of the year into line with that of most other nations and
officially the new calendar year begins on the first of January. In the rural areas,
which are more traditionally minded, it can be noticed that Songkran remains a
major festival. The celebrations last for several days and the ceremonial use of
water is always a conspicuous element of Songkran.
On April 13, 1968, the first day of Songkran, a large number of laymen came
to the most spacious gathering hall of Wat Sanchao in order to participate in
the ritual afternoon bathing of the monks. A dais was prepared, with a Buddha
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image on one end, and the abbot seated himself near this Buddha image.
All other monks sat on his left ordered in decreasing order of seniority. The
monks placed their hands with the palms turned upwards on their knees. A
group of elder men, each carrying a vessel of water, approached the monks,
all other lay people filed behind them. Each person first poured a little water
on the Buddha image, then on the abbot and on each of the remaining monks.
Some men had brought a fragrant paste that they rubbed over the hands, arms,
shoulders, heads or backs of the Buddha image and the monks before pouring
the water. The women among the throng of people had to refrain from rubbing
fragrant matter. They should at all times avoid bodily contact with members
of the Sangha, and therefore were limited in their activities to pouring a bit of
water from a safe distance.
Since almost the whole lay community of Wat Sanchao thus filed past,
the monks and their robes became thoroughly drenched. Notwithstanding
the cold water all monks remained solemn and silent. In contrast, the lay
people gradually became less deferential, and young people especially began
215
splashing each other with water. The monks ended their part of the ceremony
by chanting a blessing and retreating to their cells. While they changed into
dry robes, the laymen created an atmosphere of jocularity and general water
throwing. Nobody became angry at being soaked, for most buckets full of
water were accompanied by a smile and a funny remark. It was an excellent
opportunity for young unmarried men to attract the attention of girls.
The aspect of jocularity should not obscure the fact that pouring water
over a senior person is essentially an act of great respect. It is called rotnam
phuyai (รดน้ำ�ผู้ใหญ่), literally ‘pouring water over important people’, and is not
solely reserved for the traditional New Year. For example, when on October
27, 1967 the Reverend Phot, one of the Wat Sanchao monks, was promoted
to a higher ecclesiastical rank the community organized a procession to the
provincial capital and back to Wat Sanchao, and then further honoured the
216
monk by placing him on a chair and pouring water over him. Similarly, after the
elaborate ordination ceremony, a recently ordained monk may be honoured by
having scented water poured over his hands and feet. Usually the rotnam phuyai
is a solemn ritual and the wild splashing and licentiousness during Songkran is
typical for the New Year ceremony only.10
On May 11, 1968, the full moon of the sixth lunar month, fell Wisakhabucha.
In Wat Sanchao the day began like any other important wan phra with a
communal food offering in the most spacious gathering hall, with a group of
ubasok and ubasika promising to adhere to the eight precepts for a period of one
day and one night, and with the recitation of the Pāṭimokkha in the bot for all
the monks residing in the monastery. However, at seven o’clock in the evening
the big bell of the monastery was beaten to warn the lay population that the
Wisakhabucha evening service was impending. At around eight o’clock the
temple was filled to capacity and one of the older monks read in a loud and clear
voice the declaration of Wisakhabucha in the Thai language, halting after each
phrase to give his audience the opportunity to repeat these words (amounting
to a summary testimony of the life and teachings of the Buddha).11 After this
declaration everybody lighted a candle and some incense and, with all the monks
leading, went slowly three times around the temple in a clockwise direction.
Around each temple in Thailand there are eight round stones deeply
interred, and a ninth is buried in the centre of the building. The places where
the eight outer stone balls rest in the earth are indicated by eight marking
stones. After completing the third circumambulation everybody deposited the
remnants of their candles and the half-burned incense tapers at the marking
stone near the main entrance of the bot. Their circumambulation completed,
the congregation re-entered the temple and listened to a formal preaching
before returning home. Phya Anuman Rajadhon reports that in Bangkok the
preaching sessions last throughout the whole night,12 but this was not the case
in Wat Sanchao.
The ritual of buat phra, the ordination ceremony, is not necessarily accom-
panied by a public festival. Customarily it is only the young man who joins the
order for the first time in his life who makes this transition in an elaborate public
10 Further details of the Songkran festival may be found in Phya Anuman Rajadhon, Loy
Krathong & Songkran Festival, Thailand Culture Series, No. 5, 1953, pp. 13–24, Urakhin
ประเพณี ไทยฉบับพระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], pp. 616–34 and Wells,
Thai Buddhism, Its Rites and Activities, pp. 85–9.
11 An English translation of the declaration for Wísakhabucha can be found in Wells, Thai
Buddhism, Its Rites and Activities, pp. 73–5.
12 Life and Ritual in Old Siam, p. 94.
217
manner. On the day before the actual ordination, several rituals may take place
in the house of the main sponsors, often the parents of the monk-to-be. First the
hair of the young man is shaved, and the persons who contribute most lavishly
to the ordination will make sure to cut the first locks. During the afternoon a
chapter of monks may come to the house and chant Pali blessings. Then a lay
specialist takes over who addresses the gods and holds a tham khwan ceremony
to strengthen the morale of the candidate. Rich sponsors hire a band, and
throughout the night there is music and dancing for the guests. These rituals are
of a family nature and they are usually not held in a monastery building.
On the day of the ordination the ceremony becomes more public. First
the ordinand is led in procession to the monastery. Anybody who wishes to
contribute financially to the ordination is welcome to join. The traditional order
of the procession is often observed. The musicians and some older members of
the community who can dance well go in front, followed by three girls carrying
the gifts for the ordainer and the two preceptors. Then come a series of beautiful
girls in their best dresses carrying gifts for all members of the Sangha who will
be present at the ordination. Immediately behind follow the main sponsors of
the ritual who proudly carry the robes of the future monk, his begging bowl and
his ritual fan. Then in the shade of a huge umbrella, comes the aspirant monk
himself, sometimes on horseback, sometimes carried by friends, or on foot. At
the rear are the people who carry various gifts for the new monk: his sleeping-
mat, a pillow, a razor, a parasol, a sieve to strain water, a blanket, a kettle and any
other object that has been purchased for this occasion.13
13 This order can be found in อนุ สรฌ์กตัญญูเนื่ องในการฌาปนกิจ นายเบีย้ วเจริญจันท์ [In Grateful
Memory at the Cremation of Nai Biaw Charoenchan], Bangkok: Withayalai khrusuansu-
nantha, B.E. 2511 (1968), p. 32.
218
When the procession reaches the monastery, the monk-to-be must prostrate
himself before the shrine of the guardian spirit of the monastery, informing
him of his intention to become a resident monk. The whole procession, which
at this time includes many friends and relatives, slowly moves three times in
a clockwise direction around the bot before entering. The ordinand is aided
over the threshold by his mother and father and he takes official leave from
them inside the temple before going to the dais where the ordainer waits. The
ordination ritual carries an immense amount of beneficial karma for the main
sponsors and this is reflected in the great care with which the kruat nam ritual
is performed immediately after the ordination. Whilst the monks chant their
blessing, the main sponsors pour water from a vessel over the top of the index
finger. Only those who have made a substantial contribution may place their
finger in the stream of water. Near relatives who contributed not as generously
may obtain a small share of the power by touching the arm or a shoulder of
one of the main sponsors. Those who gave only a few baht receive their share
without touching the central figures.
During the season when fruit is abundant, near the end of the hot period
of the year and at the beginning of the rainy season, some important laymen
confer with the older monks of a monastery in order to decide on which day
their monastery will hold the annual salakaphat, the distribution of food by lot.
This custom can be traced to the early days of the Sangha and may originally
have been designed to avoid quarrels over food when the supply was scarce.14
In Thailand most monasteries have always had an abundance of food and the
distribution of food by lot is therefore of a character quite different from that
of the salākabhattaṃ in the Tipiṭaka.15
The day chosen for this ceremony is made known to everybody usually
by distributing printed leaflets, not only in the monastery itself but in the sur-
rounding villages as well. The organizers have to be certain that neighbouring
monasteries have not, by chance, already reserved the same day for a salakaphat.
If two neighbouring monasteries were to hold it on the same day, the reciprocal
invitation patterns that have over time come into existence would be upset.
The organizers of a salakaphat in rural areas can predict fairly accurately how
many individual gift baskets of food will be available for the ceremony, because
there will be scarcely a household that will not participate in this traditional
festival, and each household can be counted upon to bring a basket of food to be
14 T. W. Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg (transl.), Vinaya Texts, Vol. III, pp. 220–3.
(Cullavagga, VI, 21, 1–3.).
15 The ritual has been dealt with in some detail in my Boeddhisme in de Praktijk, 1977, pp. 78–90.
219
This formula is of a type generally used to present the Sangha with a gift. The
wording is changed only slightly to fit the specific character of the donation.
Another example was quoted in the previous chapter in discussing the ritual of
thawai sangkhathan and a further version occurs in the ceremony of thawai pha
abnamfon, discussed later in this chapter.
16 This formula occurs also in Suatmon Chet Tamnan p. 81 and in Urakhin ประเพณี ไทยฉบับ
พระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], p. 833.
221
The methods of distributing the baskets vary from region to region and
from monastery to monastery.17 The most common method of distribution
in the region around Wat Sanchao was to place as many tickets as there were
baskets in a container and let each monk select one ticket. The number on the
ticket entitles the monk to a basket together with the money that is attached.
The vessel with tickets is passed around several times, but when there are not
enough tickets left to make a full round of monks the lay organizers add a
number of blank tickets and the monks proceed to draw a final round. There is
a general interest among the laymen as to who will draw the baskets that carry
the greatest amounts of money, since it is seen as an indication which monks
possess the greatest store of beneficial karma.
The presentation of bathing clothes is often the next major communal
festival. Thawai pha apnamfon can also be traced to the early days of Buddhism.
According to the Vinaya Piṭaka, some lay people appeared upset at the sight of
members of the Sangha bathing naked in the rain. In the eyes of these devout
laymen, such behaviour seemed more in accordance with that of some ascetics
who believed in the sanctity of nakedness, and did not befit Buddhist monks.
The complaint caused a problem in that that the monks could not be expected
to bathe fully dressed, since this would have forced those who possessed only
17 For other methods of drawing by lot see Wells, Thai Buddhism, Its Rites and Activities, pp.
120–2, and Kingshill, Ku Daeng – The Red Tomb, pp. 204–6.
222
one set of robes to wear heavy, uncomfortable and damp clothing. Therefore
the Buddha ruled that special garments of small size could be used for bathing
purposes. It was laid down that the monks could only obtain these bathing
clothes during the last month of the hot season.18 This is the background of
the twenty-fourth rule of the nissaggiyā-pācittiyā rules of the Pāṭimokkha. In
the Sacred Books of the East series this rule has been translated as: ‘When he
sees that a month of the hot days has yet to run, let a Bhikkhu provide himself
with the materials for robes for the rainy season … ’.19 Probably it would have
been better to translate the words vassika sātikacīvaraṃ as ‘materials for bathing
robes for the rainy season’.
In accordance with the Buddhist tradition, the Thais designate the time
of presenting monks’ bathing clothes as somewhere between the first day of
waning moon of the seventh lunar month and the day of full moon of the eighth
lunar month.20 As with the salakaphat ritual, monks and laymen consult
each other before deciding upon the date of thawai pha apnamfon. Often it is
decided to celebrate the giving of bathing clothes within the stipulated time,
but sometimes it is considered advisable to postpone it to the first day after full
18 T. W. Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg (transl.), Vinaya Texts, Part II, pp. 216–25
(Mahāvagga, VIII, 15, 1–15).
19 T. W. Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg (transl.), Vinaya Texts, Part I, p. 28.
20 Urakhin ประเพณี ไทยฉบับพระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], p. 635.
223
moon of the eighth lunar month so that it then coincides with the feast of the
first day of the Lenten season.
Each family that wishes to take part in thawai pha apnamfon prepares or
purchases a piece of material that is acceptable according to Sangha rules.
It is a rectangular piece of cotton, about 130 cm in length and about 60 cm
wide. In the canon the exact size of the bathing cloth has been laid down
as six sugatavidatthis in length and two and a half sugatavidatthis in width.21
Amongst commentators there is no unanimity with regard to the exact size
of a sugatavidatthi. The controversy centres mainly around the ninety-second
pācittiyā rule of the Pāṭimokkha, where monks are forbidden to have robes
made of the size of the robes of the Buddha or larger, and the dimensions of the
Buddha’s clothes are given as nine by six sugatavidatthi. Legends about the huge
size of the body of the Lord Buddha have caused commentators to estimate the
sugatavidatthi to be much longer than the vidatthi, the span of approximately
23 cm commonly known in ancient India. One of the latest opinions of the
Thais rejects the idea of a Buddha many times the size of an ordinary person,
but compromises in making the sugatavidatthi one plus one third ordinary
vidatthi, still leaving the Buddha’s robe almost three metres long.22 The size of
the bathing clothes given to the monks on the occasion of thawai pha apnamfon
would suggest that in this case the sugatavidatthi is reckoned to be equal to an
ordinary vidatthi.
It seems quite plausible to accept that everywhere in the canon the word
sugatavidatthi intends to refer to a measure of 23 cm. This would make the size
of the robes of the Buddha 207 by 138 cm, quite ordinary robes for the average
man 2,500 years ago. This interpretation of the rule implies that, strictly
speaking, many monks nowadays would be wearing robes of a size forbidden
to members of the Sangha.
To many householders, the gift of a bathing cloth together with incense,
a candle and some flowers appears small and insignificant. Therefore most
families enlarge their donations by adding some useful household goods that
the monks may need during the Lenten season, such as soap, toothpaste, a box
of matches, toilet paper and usually also a small amount of money. In order
to make their present even more attractive some farmers purchase a bathing
cloth that has been skilfully folded in such a manner that it resembles a lotus
flower or a haṃsa (a mythological goose). The monk who receives such an
224
ornamentally folded cloth may place it among his prize possessions on his
private altar in his cell.
On the morning of thawai pha apnamfon the laymen present these special
gifts during the beginning of the morning meal of the monks. A spokesman
offers the gifts to the Sangha with the appropriate formula, that differs from
that of thawai sangkhathan only in that the word bhattāni is omitted and
vassikasāṭikacīvarānī (bathing cloth for the Lenten season) substituted. The
number of families participating in this ceremony is usually much greater
than the number of monks and thus each monk may receive several bathing
cloths. The distribution of the many gifts can be decided by lot in the manner
described above for the salakaphat ritual.
Because the ceremony is held at the beginning of the rainy season, and also
because the clothes offered are known as ‘robes to bathe in the rain’ (in actual
fact they are used for bathing in general, in the river, from a big earthenware
water container or in the rain, whichever is expedient), it is not surprising to find
that many farmers believe that participation in this ceremony will help ensure
good rains for the fields. It is another instance where taking part in a meritorious
ritual is believed to have also a direct, almost simultaneous, practical result. The
immediate aspect of the good karma arising from this ceremony is beneficial
power. The magical interpretation of the Buddhist ritual makes for the causal
link between the donation of rain clothes to the monks and the abundance of
water soon afterwards.
From an organizational point of view, thawai pha apnamfon is very different
from salakaphat. The former ritual is reserved only for those monks who
reside in one monastery, while the latter is traditionally a ceremony whereby
the abbot of a monastery invites monks from other monasteries. The first
is basically a transaction between community and its own monks whilst
the second is a much more outwardly directed ritual, whereby laymen are
influenced by the thought that the prestige of the monastery is at stake.
Asalahabucha is a recently introduced festival, commemorating the Buddha’s
first disciples. It is celebrated on the day of full moon of the eighth lunar
month. In years when there is a second, intercalary month in order to adjust
the difference between the solar and lunar years, Asalahabucha falls on the day
of the full moon of the second eighth lunar month. The rituals for laymen are
similar to those of Wísakhabucha described earlier in this chapter. During the
evening the big monastery bell is sounded to warn all laymen of the impending
ceremony in the bot. After the declaration of Asalahabucha has been prompted
and repeated by everyone present, the temple is circumambulated three times,
225
everyone holding a candle and some incense between the fingers of the two
hands joined in front of the chest.
The following day, the first waning day of the moon, is known as Khao
phansa, literally ‘to enter the Lenten season’. On this day all monks gather in the
temple, and one after the other in order of seniority they declare three times
in a firm voice: ‘Imasmiṃ āvāse imaṃ temāsaṃ vassaṃ upemi’. This means:
‘I enter upon Lenten season in this residence for these three months’. While
many monks are not able to give an exact translation of the solemn declaration,
all realize that they promise to bind themselves to this particular monastery
for the duration of phansa. The Thais interpret this strictly along orthodox
lines. Each morning at sunrise, just before the small lines in the hand can be
discerned, all monks should be within the boundaries of the monastery they
selected for phansa. From sunrise onwards, the monks can leave the monastery,
but when they wish to depart from the immediate surroundings they must
ask permission from the abbot or his delegate. If a monk travels beyond
the boundaries of his monastery and is prevented from returning before
the first moment of sunrise of the following day, he breaks his vow and will
automatically forfeit the strongly beneficial karma of the pavāraṇa ceremony
at the end of phansa. In the case of a serious illness a maximum of seven days’
absence is permissible without forfeiting the benefits of completing a Lenten
season.23 Khao phansa is primarily a ritual of the Sangha; the lay congregation
is only involved in the services of an ordinary sacred day in the Lenten season:
food offering, the eight precepts, and sermons.
Three lunar months later, on the day of the full moon of the eleventh lunar
month, it is Ok phansa, literally: ‘Leaving the Lenten season’. The day is a wan phra
226
Figure 9.8: Every wan phra during phansa, the donation of food is a major event.
and the services for the laymen are almost identical with those of an ordinary
sacred day during phansa. However, there are two subtle differences. In the first
place many laymen offer flowers to the monks during the early morning meal
of the Sangha. This may be regarded as a token of veneration and respect for
individual monks on the day that they complete a Lenten season. In the second
place, many laymen bring a bucket, pan, or other vessel to the temple, and make
sure that each vessel contains an amount of clean water before the monks begin
the pavāraṇa ceremony. These vessels are placed in an elevated position of the
bot, near the main Buddha image. In the beginning of the afternoon a candle is
affixed on the rims of each vessel in such a manner that, when alight, the candle
will drip wax on the surface of the water. The actual lighting of the candles takes
place immediately after the pavāraṇa formula when the monks hold a long
chanting session.
For the pavāraṇa ceremony all monks who have successfully completed a
Lenten season gather in the temple. The abbot’s deputy opens the ceremony
by declaring:
Sunāṭu me bhante saṃgho ajja pavāraṇa yadi Saṃghassa pattakallaṃ saṃgho
pavāreyya.
This is the prescribed formula in the Vinaya piṭaka, that has been translated as:
227
Let the Sangha, reverend Sirs, hear me. Today is the Pavāraṇā day. If the
Sangha is ready, let the Sangha hold Pavāraṇā.24
The most senior monk of the assembly has the right to answer first, and after
him all other monks chant three times a prescribed formula, each monk for
himself. The monks who have been in the order for a longer period than the
abbot’s deputy will use following polite Pali words:
Sangham āvuso pavāremi diṭṭhena vā sutena vā parisaṃkāya vā vadantu
maṃ āyasmanto anukampaṃ upādāya passanto paṭikarissāmi.
Those who have been members of the order for a shorter period than the
spokesman must phrase this formula in a different manner, omitting the
familiar avuso, and using the more polite term of address bhante instead.25 This
formula has been translated as:
I pronounce my Pavāraṇā, friends, before the Samgha, by what has been
seen, or by what has been heard, or by what has been suspected; may you
speak to me, Sirs, out of compassion towards me; if I see (an offence), I will
atone for it.26
After the youngest monk has completed the third repetition of his formula,
the candles on the rims of all the vessels are lighted and the monks begin their
chanting and meditation session. During this period, it is believed, some of
the immense store of good karma of the assembly of monks who have just
completed their phansa in amity attaches itself to the water and sacralizes it.
After the final blessing the laymen can collect their containers and use it for
auspicious occasions.
It is remarkable that the pavāraṇā formulae are executed faultlessly in a
rural monastery such as Wat Sanchao. Without proper understanding of the
Pali grammar, the declaration and personal statements are recited exactly as
prescribed in the canon. It is indicative, not only of the capacity of the monks
to memorize sacred words in these remote monasteries, but also of the fact that
the Buddhist church in Thailand is strongly centralized and exerts its influence
mainly via printed texts.
On the morning after the pavāraṇā ceremony, many laymen will go to the
monastery for a very special food offering, called saibat dawadueng or the
24 T. W. Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg. Vinaya Texts, Part I, p. 329.
25 Urakhin ประเพณี ไทยฉบับพระราชครู [Thai Customs, the Rajaguru edition], p. 672.
26 T. W. Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg, Vinaya Texts, Part I, p. 329.
228
Tāvatiṃsa begging bowl ceremony. Early in the morning all monks gather
in the bot, and the lay people collect on either side of the footpaths of the
monastery, having brought ample cooked rice and fruit. At a sign from the
spokesman for the laity a slow procession takes place. The first to emerge
from the temple is a strong man carrying an image of the Buddha ‘in walking
position’ and the Buddha’s begging bowl. Immediately behind in single file
follow all the monks in order of seniority, also carrying their begging bowls.
The whole procession makes the round of the monastery grounds, giving all
laymen the opportunity to place rice and fruit in the bowls. The quantities of
food are such that the begging bowls are soon filled to capacity and have to be
emptied in other containers in order to give all people the chance to make the
food offering.
Informants in Wat Sanchao were uncertain about the origin of this custom,
but during subsequent research it could be ascertained that it must be related
to the story that the Lord Buddha spent the seventh Lenten season after his
Awakening in the Tāvatiṃsa heaven.27 Saibat dawadueng is a commemoration
of the return of the Buddha from his stay in heaven. This explains the name of
the ceremony and also why the image of the Buddha with a begging bowl is
carried in front of the monks. What appears to be a ‘walking Buddha’ actually
should be seen as a descending Buddha, returning from his stay in heaven to
earth.
When phansa has ended, the laymen know that within one month the kathin
robes must be presented. The custom of the preparation and presentation of
robes after the rainy season has ended is prescribed in the Tipiṭaka.28 Several
elaborate versions of giving these robes have developed in Thailand. In some of
the most important monasteries of the country, a Great kathin, or mahakathin,
can be held during which a fabulous range of goods accompany the robes of
the monks. Another elaboration is the chulakathin, ‘Small kathin’, during which
kathin robes were manufactured by the combined efforts of the lay community.
All people would make sure that they would weave, dye, cut and sew at least
one set of robes during the course of a single day. The robes had to be ready
before dusk, and if there was reason to fear that the monk’s clothes would not
be fully prepared by that time, everybody, even the oldest and feeblest monk,
had to come and assist. It is only rarely that the chulakathin can be witnessed in
27 G. P. Malalasekera, Dictionary of Pali Proper Names, Vol. I, 1960, pp. 1002–1003. See also
S. J. Tambiah, Buddhism and the Spirit Cults, p.159.
28 Mahāvagga, VII, 1, 1–6; Cullavagga, V, 11, 3–7 and see also the Pāṭimokkha, Nissaggiyā-
pācittiyā, rule 1–3.
229
modern times. Nowadays, the new robes are usually purchased in a provincial
capital.
The presentation of the kathin robes is a ceremony reputed to bring a great
amount of beneficial karma to the donor, and therefore it is not unusual to
find laymen interested in becoming the main sponsors of such a ritual. One
of the reasons why this ceremony carries great prestige and brings honour to
the sponsors is that it is extremely expensive. A private individual is expected
to give, apart from the new robes, many useful goods and a great amount of
money. It is not uncommon to find a rich farmer saving for more than ten years
before he can become the main sponsor of a kathin ritual. In 1968, only a man
who could spare several thousands of baht would think of becoming the holder
230
of such a festival, and rich donors from municipal areas were reported to attach
sums of tens of thousands of baht to their robe giving.
Each year the lay community sustaining a monastery waits full of suspense
to know whether a private individual will offer to become sponsor of this year’s
kathin. In return everybody is willing to give such a person a hero’s welcome
and treat him with utmost respect. If no private individual offers to sponsor
the kathin festival, the community will have to raise money to buy some robes
themselves. In order to bring a money gift together with the new robes they
will organize a fund-raising ceremony in the monastery, attracting small gifts
by holding a dance or a film show.
It has been noted by Tambiah that during the presentation of kathin robes
sometimes a ‘money tree’ is presented.29 He failed to note, however, that the
offering of a tree forms part of a ceremony that can be held in conjunction with
kathin, but is wholly separate and may also be celebrated at any other time of the
year. It is the ritual of presenting phapa (ผ้าป่า), forest clothes. The donation of
phapa involves much less expenditure than that of kathin, and consequently it
carries less prestige. A small tree is provided with banknotes and under the tree
is a collection of goods of a kind useful to the monastery in its daily running.
Thus the phapa gifts often include new pots and pans, brooms, vessels with oil,
petrol and paraffin as well as some durable fruits such as coconuts. Usually it is
the abbot who takes possession of the gifts in the name of the Sangha.
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decide to celebrate such a ritual in a community other than their own. This
occurs regularly especially with regard to kathin and phapa. Often the wealthier
farmers pool their resources and become the main sponsors in a monastery
that has caught their attention. Then they make it known to their friends and
relatives that anybody who wishes to share the merit should pay some money
to the main organizers and thereby become part of the retinue of the main
sponsors during the presentation. In central Thailand it has become the
custom to select for such occasions a monastery in a region that many villagers
may want to visit, so that the presentation of robes is combined with a holiday.
As soon as the Lenten season is over, the roads and waterways are therefore the
scene of many processions. Buses and lorries, tugboats and water-taxis, gaily
decorated with flags and banners, carry large groups of villagers to monasteries
other than their own. The farmers in the region of Wat Sanchao had the
opportunity to participate in two very adventurous kathin presentations, one
in 1966 to the Phuket peninsula about 600 km south of Ratburi and another in
1967 to Chiang Mai, a similar distance north.
Whilst ordinations and kathin festivals do not involve the main sponsors in
reciprocal relationships, many other rituals in which outsiders participate do
involve the recipients of gifts in an obligation to return the donation at some
time in the future. This can be clearly seen in the big fund-raising ceremonies
that take place approximately once a year in almost every monastery in
rural central Thailand. It is difficult to predict what occasion the elders of a
community will choose for a fund drive. Sometimes, when no outside sponsor
has been found to present kathin robes, they are forced to raise money for this
event, but they may choose any of the other major annual ceremonies as an
excuse to raise money.
They may think of an unusual ceremony in order to create interest: a
famous monk may be found willing to give a public preaching, a new building
of the monastery may be inaugurated, or a ceremony to endow amulets with
beneficial power may be organized. As soon as the laymen, in consultation
with the monks, have decided which occasion will be used to try and raise
capital, the event must be advertised widely. Notices stating the event, the
date, the place and the major attractions are printed and sent to relatives and
friends who live far away. At the entrance of the monastery a big placard may
announce the same information. Nowadays it is quite common for the lay
organizers to hire a boat or a car that has been fitted with loudspeakers and
thus publicize the fund-raising ceremony in neighbouring communities. On
the day of the event, free transport to the monastery may be offered to all
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groups who are interested to take part and all participants may be brought
home free of charge.
In the course of time these regular events have resulted in an intricate
network of mutual relationships between different communities. When a
fund-raising festival is to take place at a monastery which is situated at a large
distance, but with which there exists a reciprocal relationship, the leaders of the
community make sure to hold a collection well before the event takes place.
All contributions are attached to a small tree, or to a symbolic representation
of a tree that is manufactured of wire, coloured paper and glue. Presenting gifts
on a tree (which we have already encountered as part of the phapa ritual) is
commonly recognized in Thailand as a solemn and formal deed, in accordance
with ancient customs. It is related to the concept of heavenly plants such as
the kapparukkha, which reputedly yield any object that people may wish them
to yield. The people who carry the money tree to the monastery where the
fund-raising festival is held are received with great respect; they are treated as
ambassadors from the other community. The amount of money on the tree is
publicly announced and recorded, so that on a similar occasion in the monastery
from where the communal gift came, a deputation with a gift not markedly
greater, but certainly not less, can be sent in return. Thus, when a whole array
of tree gifts accumulates during a fund-raising ceremony, this reveals part of the
network of formal obligations between different communities in a wide region.
1. Becoming a monk.
2. Contributing enough money for the construction of a monastery.
3. Having a son ordained as a monk.
4. Making excursions to the Buddhist shrines throughout Thailand.
5. Contributing towards the repair of a monastery.
6. Giving food, daily, to the monks and giving food on holy days.
7. Becoming a novice.
8. Attending a monastery on all holy days and obeying the eight precepts on
these days.
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The value of this type of research appears rather limited. In the first place
the sample seems rather small; only 25 adults were asked out of a population
of 744 persons. Also one may object to the narrow range of choices given to
the villagers. Many common meritorious acts such as listening to a sermon,
circumambulating a temple, charity to laymen, listening to the chanting of the
monks or helping to finance a cremation were not included. The most serious
objection, however, lies in the fact that some items that were presented to the
villagers must have seemed unrealistic, sometimes impossible and in other
instances ambiguous. For example, the construction of a whole monastery
is totally beyond the scope of villagers. While a rich farmer may finance
ceremonies that cost him several thousands of baht, building a monastery
involves a person in a outlay of the order of millions. Similarly, obeying the five
precepts at all times is incompatible with a farmer’s way of life, and while there
are a good number of people who observe the eight precepts during the Lenten
season, there is nobody who would contemplate doing so throughout the year.
Items 5 and 10 must have puzzled the informants for they may be interpreted
at different levels. There is a fundamental difference between contributing
a sum of money towards a good cause and becoming the main sponsor of a
major ceremony and it is not possible to see in the wording which of the two
Kaufman intended to be answered.
A similar exercise is reported by Tambiah whose sample was markedly
bigger, but who offered an even more limited choice of activities to be ranked.
His 79 family heads came up with the following ranking:
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The criticisms that were expressed in relation to Kaufman’s list apply to an even
greater extent to the one drawn up by Tambiah. The list cannot be regarded
as exhaustive, and some of the items must have seemed unrealistic or highly
ambiguous to the informants. It need therefore not surprise us that the two
lists show discrepancies. Whilst Kaufman’s informants placed contributions to
the kathin ceremony lowest on the scale (probably thinking of a communally
organized kathin), Tambiah’s villagers (probably thinking of the chief sponsor
of such a ceremony) evaluated it much higher.
With regard to the fact that items of ‘ethical and moralistic conduct’ are
placed very low on the list, Tambiah comments:
Strict observance of the five precepts (especially that exhorting avoidance of
killing) and meditation on the philosophical assertions of the Dhamma have
little positive interest for the villager, either because lay life is not possible
without breaking some of the prohibitions or because one must renounce
lay life altogether to pursue such aims. He therefore rates these pursuits, in
so far as they have relevance for his life, low on the merit-making scale; this
is not because he devalues them but because they are not normally open to
him. ... 32
In contrast to Tambiah, I do not think that the villagers placed these items
so low on the scale because these pursuits were not normally open to them.
After all, constructing a whole monastery is even less open to the farmer, but
he places it on top of the list. It seems that the farmers tried, difficult though
it must have been with some items, to apply the criterion of financial sacrifice
to all items. That is why the construction of a monastery ranks high, and the
ethical conduct comes low on the scale. After all, the observance of wan phra
need not involve participants in great expense, as just a few coins may be
offered during an official sermon. Similarly, the five precepts need not involve
people in financial losses; on the contrary, by refraining from gambling and
intoxicating beverages many a farmer would even be better off financially.
The line of enquiry taken by Kaufman and Tambiah, attempting to establish
a scale of meritorious activities, would gain in interest if a much longer list
with much more specific items were presented to the informants. For good
measure it should include detailed descriptions such as: ‘A man donates 100
baht towards a cremation but does not present it personally, sending it by mail’
and another item which shows a subtly different situation: ‘A man donates 100
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baht towards a cremation using the proper dedication when handing it over’.
Merit is a very complex idea and each case may be judged taking all aspects
surrounding the activity into account. I therefore sympathize with Bunnag
who refrains from grading types of meritorious activities because she realizes
that aspects such as the purity of the actors’ intentions and the usefulness of
the act itself must be taken into account.33
As a general guideline towards understanding the different acts of obtaining
beneficial karma it is useful to remember that greater financial outlay results in
a greater return in good karma. Since virtually all farmers possess only a limited
income and because during the year there will be many occasions to take part
in ceremonies that carry considerable merit, each farmer has to decide many
times whether he will attend a certain ceremony and, if so, how much he will
contribute. Often the farmer is obliged to attend and assist with a ritual, simply
because the ceremony is given by friends or relatives with whom he wishes
to maintain good contacts. On such occasions the fact that he will thereby
increase his store of good karma may well be of secondary importance.
During public ceremonies in ‘one’s own’ monastery and when there are
fund-raising rituals in monasteries with which the community keeps a formal
relationship, people contribute not only because they gain merit, but also so as
not to be seen to lag behind others. The organizers of a fund-raising ceremony
are well aware of this secondary motivation and, in addition to writing down all
contributions in a book open for inspection, they often announce each donation
over a loudspeaker. A rich man cannot hope to give a small amount unnoticed.
If he decides to do so notwithstanding the publicity, his decision will be
respected, however. It is not proper to directly shame a person into increasing his
contribution: each person should give as much as he wishes and it is considered
bad manners to indicate that a person should have donated more. Nevertheless,
while mores prevent the villager from stating openly that a person is trying to
shirk his social obligations, most farmers are well aware of what is expected of
themselves and of others in order to escape the verdict of being stingy.
There are occasions when the prime motivation for contributing to a
ceremony seems to lie in the special power that is believed to be emitted during
the ritual. Many of the yearly recurring major festivals seem to be characterized
by some kind of force that carries rewards in the immediate future. When
bathing clothes are given to the monks, it is believed that it will rain in the
fields, not in the unspecified future, but in the following weeks and months.
236
34 Wat Phodok, September 26, 1968. A similar event occurred in Wat Bangwanthong,
November 1, 1969.
237
O L D A G E , D E AT H , A N D T H E H E R E A F T E R
1 As noted with the term phiksu, Thai Buddhist terminology adopted some key terms
from Sanskrit rather than Pali. Thus they use moksa (from Sanskrit mok ṣa) rather than
the Pali mokkha.
241
242
aged members of the order and rely upon each other for support and an
understanding ear.
There are some older monks who will not be content to withdraw from
the world. They may cultivate their relations with laymen, especially those
who continuously support the monastery for their sake. These monks may
at all times be sought out by laymen to give advice on matters of ritual, but
also on economic transactions between farmers. They may even be asked to
give advice in quarrels and disputes. Their cells are always open to friends and
relatives and in time such places become a focal point for many people where
they may drop in to discuss the daily events.
Some of the older monks may cultivate their relations with laymen to an
even greater extent. They are the monks who are willing to help the abbot in
organizing and preparing the major ceremonies. They are sought out by the lay
leaders to discuss the possibilities of another fund-raising ceremony. Whenever
a pilgrimage is arranged or a phapa offering to a different community is prepared,
their opinion weighs heavily. The abbot may delegate some administrative
tasks to such monks. They may take charge of the daily distribution of food,
ensuring that every monk, novice, dek wat and animal obtains a fair share. Such
a monk may be asked by the abbot to supervise the borrowing from the store of
household goods of the monastery. He will have to write down in detail what
goods leave the monastery and see to it that they are returned in good condition.
Sometimes the older monk may be asked to enter all sources of income in a
book especially set aside for this purpose, and to supervise all purchases. The
abbot of a monastery may thus come to depend heavily upon his senior monks
for the daily administration of his monastery, and reserve for himself only the
most important decisions and the receiving of the more distinguished visitors.
Traditionally, an older monk with aptitude for public relations and admin-
istration would end up by becoming abbot himself. Occasionally the laymen
may put up the name of one of their oldest monks to become abbot, and if
there is no other suitable candidate, an appointment may result. It has, how-
ever, become the policy to appoint younger experienced monks, notably those
who showed a remarkable aptitude for monastic life and ecclesiastical studies
when they first became members of the Sangha in their early twenties and who
then chose to stay in the order. Modern abbots may be as young as thirty when
they are chosen for this office.
Among the specializations of older monks that of medicine ranks high.
Fully consistent with the animistic interpretation of Buddhism is the practice
of asking for mantra water, nam mon, in order to cure aches and pains. When a
243
monk has male patients he may rub sacral water over the sore parts, but women,
of course, have to take the nam mon home. Apart from the use of powerful
nam mon, there are several other fields of medicine open to members of the
Sangha. There are some older monks who are famous for the healing power
of their pills, manufactured from ground-up sacred objects. Others have a
regular clientele for their bundles of herbs from which the patient should brew
a medicinal tea. The monk’s name as a doctor depends mainly on his success
in difficult cases. He does not receive a fixed payment for his services; it is up
to the client to decide on the remuneration. A small gift is usual before the
treatment begins, but a greater amount can be expected as soon as the patient
feels better.
Some older monks specialize in esoteric knowledge. They may, for example,
draw yan on rectangular or triangular pieces of cloth. After they have drawn the
diagrams and inscribed the proper letters and ciphers, all the while pronouncing
appropriate khatha, these pieces of cloth are believed to be capable of protecting
a person. The monk who wishes to specialize in this kind of lore frequently
obtains his knowledge from another monk who already is an established expert.
If no such expert is available, he may learn from some of the popular textbooks
on khatha and yan, but usually he will take care not to be seen whilst consulting
such a publication, because most specialists proclaim that these books do not
transmit the full knowledge. If a book were printed with a complete khatha, or
with a yan fully drawn in all details, the magical effects would immediately be
noticeable, heat would accumulate, making the book too hot to be held casually
in the hand.
Pieces of cloth inscribed by an expert are valuable. Some should be hung in
the house in a properly elevated position, while others are reputed to protect
a boat from collision and must be fastened in the stern. There are special
ones made to protect cars and buses and others may be rolled up and put in a
small cylinder that may be worn around the neck. The monk whose magical
drawings have reputedly saved people from accidents may be sought out to
perform many small prophylactic ceremonies. He may be asked to sprinkle
the area of the house with nam mon where a woman will give birth; it is this
monk who will be asked to make a metal takrut for a young boy. He may
tattoo a young man or a recently ordained monk with beneficially charged ink.
If someone buys a new cart, he may ask such a monk to bless the vehicle by
drawing protective diagrams over it whilst muttering the proper spells. He is
also the monk who makes the small Buddha images that can be worn around
the neck. If these images acquire a reputation for their power, they may make
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3 Some emancipated women obtained full ordination, first in Taiwan and more recently
in Sri Lanka, but as of 2011 they have not yet succeeded in being formally accepted as
members of the Thai Sangha.
4 The Venerable Wimonkitì, personal communication, Wat Phanoenplu, 31 August 1968.
5 See the chapter of the Cullavagga, of which an English translation can be found in T. W.
Rhys Davids and H. Oldenberg, Vinaya Texts, Part III, pp. 320–69.
245
the Cullavagga makes for two different organizations within the Sangha, one for
men and the other for women. With regard to the embarrassment in the event
of a woman being ordained, the Venerable Wimonkitì probably referred to the
formal Pali questioning of the candidate, which, in the case of women refers to a
number of abnormalities, deformities and diseases of the womb. Since the word-
ing of these questions is couched in an obsolete terminology the embarrassment
factor would constitute a much smaller impediment.
Whatever the reason given, the fact remains that women are still barred from
being members of the Sangha. The closest a woman can get towards sacred living
is by joining the ascetics, by becoming a mae chi. The word chi is probably related
to the Sanskrit jīva. In Hindi there exists a similar word, ji, a title attached to names
as a mark of respect.6 These women who carry the title chi are not bhikkhunīs,
they are not members of the Sangha and therefore they ought not be referred to
as nuns. Often the chi live in an organization of recluses and undoubtedly they
model their behaviour upon the example of the monks. Generally, but not always,
they shave their heads every month as an indication that they renounce vanity.
They also have a uniform. They cannot wear yellow, red or brown robes, since
these would make them indistinguishable from monks and novices, and therefore
they have to be satisfied with wearing white robes. There are some solitary chi,
but often they live in small groups, where they observe an order of seniority. The
eldest chi is responsible for the general appearance of the communal abode and
makes sure that all her charges present a neat and clean appearance.
That they are a long-established institution in Thailand is demonstrated by
the account of Schouten, more than three-and-a-half centuries ago:
Besides these Priests, there are a sort of old Nuns shorn, lodged in Chappels
near the greatest Temples, who assist very devoutly in all their preachings,
singings, ceremonies, and other Church services, but all voluntary, being
tied to no rules or prescriptions.7
246
that it is not customary for chi to collect food like the monks and novices, and
therefore they must be able to sustain themselves financially.
There are some inconsistencies in the literature concerning the number
of precepts that these female religious specialists follow. Whilst Schouten
states that they are tied to no rules or prescriptions, Kaufman, more than three
centuries later, reports that they follow ‘only eight of the 227 rules’.9 Kingshill,
on the other hand, maintains that the chi ‘are required only to keep the ten
precepts which the novices keep’.10 In the region of Wat Sanchao none of
these views held; the female recluses considered themselves bound to the five
precepts in all its ramifications. Only on special days, like other devout laymen,
they would join the group that vows to adhere to the eight precepts for a period
of one day and one night.
In contrast to ordinary farmers, the chi try to follow the five precepts strictly
and meticulously and this compels them to avoid most contact with the secular
world. Usually they live just within the precincts of a monastery or in a house
in the immediate vicinity. Thus they are able to attend all public ceremonies,
they often donate food to the monks and seldom miss an opportunity to hear a
sermon. In their private surroundings they may add to their store of beneficial
karma by reading sacred books, by meditating and by learning Pali texts by
heart. The chanting of sacred Pali words is thus not forbidden to them, and
some groups of chi become quite famous for their beautiful way of chanting. At
major cremation ceremonies, a group of chi can be invited to chant some sacred
texts appropriate to the occasion. This occurs rarely in rural areas because there
are seldom sufficient chi attached to a rural monastery to make up a chapter, and
it would, of course, be unthinkable to mix monks and chi in the same chapter.
Moreover, many farmers, whilst appreciating the chanting skills of the female
recluses, prefer the monks. The, latter, after all, are full members of the Sangha,
they follow many more precepts, and are therefore expected to emit a much
stronger beneficial force whilst uttering the sacred words.
Death
The various ways of dealing with the phenomenon of death can be brought
under two headings: there are procedures for handling deaths that are predict-
able and expected, and there are different methods for treating those that occur
suddenly, tragically and unpredictably.
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When the eyes of the dead person remain wide open this is interpreted as a
sign that the soul is anxious about his relatives and reluctant to leave the body.
One of the bystanders should close the eyes whilst saying in a soothing voice
words like: ‘It is all right, don’t be anxious, you shall go well’.
The bereaved family will usually call on the services of a man who is
prepared to act as undertaker in return for a small fee. He will instruct that
water be fetched and that the body be washed. The body is then dressed in
clean clothes and all relatives are invited to take part in a further ritual washing.
In this context the act of sprinkling with water is not one of cleansing but must
be regarded as paying homage, and at the same time it is an asking forgiveness
for any bad feelings that still may exist between the deceased and the living.
The closest relatives pour water over hands and feet of the dead person, but all
other persons pour water only over the hands.
In the mouth a coin is placed, which the soul of the dead person needs in
order to pay the fare to cross the underworld river, guarded by Phra Ketkaew
Culamani, (เก็จแก้วจุฬมณี) or ‘Lord Bright Gem Jewel’. Probably this is Yama,
the Hindu god who presides over the dead and who is described as ‘with
a glittering form, a crown on his head’.11 If the person who dies was fond of
areca fruit and betel leaves, a small quantity of this may also be placed in the
mouth. Further preparation of the corpse entails the colouring of the face with
turmeric, the arranging of the hands on the chest, palm to palm, with a candle,
incense and a flower placed between them.
This is followed by the ritual of tra sang (ตราสัง), ‘binding the corpse’. The
undertaker uses a piece of white unspun cotton thread to bind the neck, feet
and hands whilst saying the Pali formula: ‘Putto gīve, dhano pade, bhariya
hatthe’. This is interpreted as a spell with which to free a person from the three
strongest ties in this world: from the tie of children (whilst putting a loop with
the cord around the neck), from wealth (when binding the feet), and from
the tie of the spouse (while the hands are tied).12 One end of the sai sin is kept
hanging free for a length of about one metre. Then the body is placed in a
wooden coffin, and the loose end of the cotton thread is hung over the side so
that later, when the monks come to chant, it is easy to knot another cord to it.
In the coffin a small ladder with four rungs may be placed, made from the stem
of a banana tree. This little ladder should enable the soul of the dead man to
leave the coffin at any time. It is necessary that it should have an even number
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Figure 10.1: A chapter of four monks is appropriate for the chants for the dead.
of rungs because it is believed that spirits cannot climb a ladder that possesses
an uneven number, such as the ladder leading up to the house.
While the corpse remains at home it is believed that the soul hovers in or
around the body. At all times candles and incense are kept burning to keep
the spirit in an amiable state, and the inhabitants of the house have to adjust
their behaviour in order to prevent offending the soul which wanders about.
At all mealtimes one of the relatives must place a tray holding a little plate with
food and drink near the corpse, rap softly on the wood of the coffin, and warn
politely that it is time to eat. After a suitable time has elapsed, during which the
spirit can partake of the essence of the food, the plate can be removed and the
contents can be thrown away, for example to the domestic animals.
During the evening a wake is observed by the relatives and their friends.
If the family can afford the expense, they may elaborate on the ritual by
inviting a chapter of four monks to come to chant during one or more nights.
It is only during ceremonies dealing with the spirits of the dead that an even
number of monks is needed, in contrast to the uneven number needed during
auspicious occasions. This is part of the inversion with regard to the world of
the dead, hence a ladder with four rungs, and also a circumambulation of a
coffin is changed from the auspicious clockwise direction to an anti-clockwise
movement. When the monks arrive at the house, a relative of the dead person
250
Figure 10.2: Mae chi can also be invited to chant for the dead.
should again knock on the coffin and inform the soul that the monks have come.
During the night the monks chant appropriate texts from the Suatmon Chet
Tamnan and any other text they may know that deals with broad philosophical
questions. In former days, the monks would bring a box with the text of the
story of the Venerable Malai and his adventures in the heavens and hells. This
epic account was chanted in the Thai language. At present, however, very few
monks know how to chant Thai texts in the proper traditional manner and the
story is not told any more. A further elaboration consists of an orchestra that
plays suitable music in between the periods of chanting.
The corpse may remain in the house up to seven days. According to one
informant, it is on the seventh day that the dead person suddenly realizes that
he cannot remain in the decaying body. This is the moment when he has to go
to the world of the dead and wait till he is reborn. The farmers are often of the
opinion that this waiting time may be last very long. While they will admit that
theoretically it is possible for a spirit to be reborn almost immediately, they do
not think this happened to their own ancestors. Thus they solve the apparent
paradox between the cult of the spirits of the ancestors and the Buddhist
teachings. Whilst the ancestors wait to be reborn they can be placated in the
house. It is only seldom, for example when a child is born in the community
who displays a strong characteristic of a person who died some time in the
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past, that the farmers can calculate the exact time between death and rebirth.
Apart from these rare cases the time between death and rebirth may be as long
as several generations.
Other Tai peoples, especially the White and Black Tais of northern Vietnam,
who do not seem to be influenced by Buddhism, have quite different views.
In their eyes, a person has many khwan that, upon death, divide themselves in
groups; some khwan go to the spirit world above, some are conducted to the
house and can be worshipped on the ancestral shrine, while the remainder stay
in the grave.13
During the time that the corpse rests in the house, no food or incense
should be offered to the Buddha image of the house or to the guardian spirit of
the compound. Both these powers may be informed of the bereavement only
after the dead body has been removed. The moving of the corpse from the
house to the monastery usually requires the supervision and assistance of the
ritual expert. He binds some sai sin around the wrists of the persons who help
carry the body in order to reassure their khwan and to prevent these from being
frightened and chased away. He then walks three times in an anti-clockwise
direction around the coffin, rapping several times on it and urging the spirit
of the dead man to remain in the body for a while during transport. The door
and stairway have been temporarily transformed with branches to look like a
jungle, so that the spirit does not recognize from which house it is carried. As
soon as the coffin has been lowered onto the ground, the undertaker will say
a spell, while drawing a line in the sand with his knife, to make sure that the
spirit will not re-enter the house. The same procedure takes place at the point
where the remains of the person leave the compound. As soon as the corpse
has left, all water containers of the household should be emptied and filled
with fresh water. If the coffin on its way to the monastery must cross a bridge,
the corpse has to be told of this fact, and in addition the undertaker must bind
some incense, a candle and some flowers to one of the bridge posts. In the
region of Wat Sanchao, a piece of paper with some streaks of gold and silver
paint is attached to a pole of a bridge, a custom the farmers say they derived
from Chinese religious practice.
The financial circumstances of the family determine what kind of cremation
shall take place. If the dead person came from a poor family it may be arranged
with the abbot to organize the cremation as soon as possible. In the countryside
it is believed inauspicious to cremate on a Friday or a Saturday, or to burn the
13 See P-B. Lafont, ‘Notes sur les familles patronymiques Thai Noires de So’n-la et de
Nghīa-lô’, Anthropos, Vol. 50, 1955, p. 807.
252
height onto the ground at the moment the pyre is lighted. It is believed that
the dead person is finally despatched at the moment of cremation, and the
dropping of useful objects is probably a symbolic destruction in the belief
that anything destroyed during cremation will accompany the dead person on
his destination. When a monk is cremated, no objects are dropped on to the
ground. After all, a monk needs no special equipment and he is not allowed to
work on the land. Modern funeral customs, imported from the towns, tend to
leave out this offering of useful objects.
After the cremation, the tools and objects, of which the essence has been
given to accompany the dead person, become the property of the monastery
where the man was cremated. It is always a layman who lights the pyre in rural
monasteries, for if a monk did so, he might inadvertently kill the many insects
that live in the wood. With the rapid spread of modern incinerators that use
petrol this prohibition is no longer observed. The cremation on a traditional
wood pyre lasts several hours and needs constant supervision by some older
men who make use of long poles to control the burning. They make sure that
the body remains in the heart of the fire and that it is properly consumed. When
the fire is finally allowed to die, the ashes are raked and small pieces of bone
that remain are collected. Somewhere near these pieces are arranged roughly
in the shape of a miniature human body along an east-west axis, and an older,
experienced monk is usually invited to perform the final ritual of the cremation.
A piece of cloth is draped over the pieces of bone, and the monk holds an
edge of this cloth between thumb and index of the right hand while reciting in
a solemn voice the famous Pali lines:
aniccā vata saṃkhārā uppādavayadhammino uppajjhitvā
nirujjhanti tesaṃ vūpasamo sukho.
This is the ancient Buddhist proverb that is closely connected with death. It
has been translated as follows:
O transient are our life’s experiences!
Their nature ’tis to rise and pass away.
They happen in our ken, they cease to be.
O well for us when they are sunk to rest.14
The laymen turn each piece of bone a half-circle, again forming the rough
small shape of a human along the east-west axis. The first time the bones were
254
arranged with the head of the human shape towards the west, pointing in the
direction of death, but the second time, after rearranging, the head is towards
the east, symbolizing rebirth.15 The same piece of cloth is laid over the bones
again and the monk proceeds with another famous appropriate saying:
Aciraraṃ vata yaṃ kāyo paṭhaviṃ adhisessati chuḍḍo apetaviññāno Niratthaṃ
va kalingaraṃ.16
255
The monk who has recited these verses receives the piece of cloth. The
presentation of cloth during cremations, which is greatly elaborated upon
during important cremations, is clearly related to a practice of the early days of
Buddhism, when cloth was scarce and monks were instructed to obtain robes
from discarded rags at funeral pyres. After the presentation of cloth is over the
laymen can now put a few of the ashes and small pieces of bone in an urn and
throw the remainder back into the smouldering ashes.
There are many variations on custom of arranging the ashes and bones just
described. The bones that have been arranged in the shape of a body may be
honoured by the relatives of the dead person with a ceremonial sprinkling with
perfumed water. The bones may be strewn with flowers and some members
of the family may put coins among the remains. Later they collect the coins
for they are considered to become luck-bringing. When filling the urn, the
relatives may take care to take one piece from each part of the ‘body’. The
remainder may be collected in a white piece of cloth and later dropped in the
river.
Cremations can be very elaborate rituals. Families that can afford to spend
thousands of baht would lose face if they were to dispose of the body of an
honoured member of the family in a quick and simple manner. Many farmers
gladly spend for such a purpose because they believe that not only will an
elaborate cremation send a great amount of beneficial karma to the deceased,
but also it is an excellent opportunity for the living to make merit for themselves.
For elaborate cremations usually a long period of preparation is needed and
the corpse will therefore be stored in a temporary grave for a period that may
range from a month to over a year. During the time that the deceased lies in the
temporary grave, the chief organizers of the planned cremation will collecting
donations from members of the family and close friends and painstakingly
keep a record of all these financial contributions. In general, the more elaborate
the ceremony the greater the number of people attending and contributing to
the cost. Thus the most influential members of the community are cremated
with the accompaniment of an orchestra, and there may be classical theatre
performances or film shows.
The coffin is enveloped in ornamental panels and surrounded by beautiful
tables with many bouquets of flowers. The chapter of monks chanting Pali
texts can be expanded to fifty or more and in addition there may be hundreds
of members of the Sangha invited to come, each to receive a piece of cloth
draped over the coffin. All lay guests may come forward and place a candle,
some incense, and a sliver of sandalwood in the open coffin, a gesture usually
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Figure 10.5: The donor of the new robes stands close by.
place where otherwise the customary bowl of water is found. At one stage of
the chanting, the sai sin is attached to the urns and all monks take this cotton
cord lightly between thumb and index fingers of the right hand, which they
keep resting on the dais immediately in front of their folded legs (an attitude
reminiscent of the receiving of the burial cloth). Solemnly they chant again the
famous lines: ‘aniccā vata saṃkhārā . . . ’, mentioned above.
258
259
of the story of the Venerable Malai himself. The abandonment of such practices
is a natural outcome of the growing influence of the central administration in
matters of monastic discipline. In modern Thai Buddhism the idea of monks
using alcohol for ritual purposes is unthinkable.
While the cremation rituals ensure that the spirit of the dead person is sent
towards the world of the dead, at soon as this has been achieved, new links are
established between the living and the dead. After cremation, some ashes and
bones are brought back to the house and placed in an honourable position,
often together with a photograph of the deceased. The living inhabitants
regularly light incense and a candle near where these remains are kept and
inform the spirits of their ancestors of all important events in this world: when
the new rice is sown, when an ox is bought, and when the roof is repaired. The
ancestors are always told when a guest stays overnight, if a marriage has been
decided upon, or when a new member of the family is born. The dead are thus
considered not only to be able to understand what happens in the house, but to
maintain an interest. The forebears are also seen capable of receiving beneficial
karma whenever the descendants perform a kruat nam ceremony during which
they include a thought for these ancestors. The idea of rebirth is staved off
when one is thinking about one’s own dead relatives: their rebirth may not take
place yet. At any rate the concept of time among the dead is likely to be quite
different from that of the living. A human year may correspond with only a
single day in the realm of the ancestors.
The tendency to regard the moment of rebirth as rather distant is connected
with the belief that the direct links with a previous existence are severed when a
person is reborn. While the dead may experience a continuation of life in some
manner, not unlike that they have just left, and are conscious of the love and
respect of their relatives, this bond is broken with rebirth. From that moment
onwards the new individual does not receive a share in the merit bestowed
upon the ancestors. The newly formed memory will in normal circumstances
not be able to recall the details of a former existence. That is why the farmers
tend to exaggerate the duration of the period between rebirths. Life appears to
most of them to proceed, not so much in a continuous cycle, as in an endless
spiral, each new turn built on the previous one, but with large sectors of this
eternal coil obscured. These dark sectors represent the time spans from death
to rebirth.
260
CO N C LU S I O N S
words, and the perception of the Buddhist monk in the village. It has been
demonstrated that even those aspects of religion that are obviously at the
very heart of the Buddhist tradition are interpreted by both the farmer and
the rural monk in their own characteristically magico-animistic manner.
Thus the ritual of receiving the five precepts, which is prescribed word-for-
word in the canon, has taken a new meaning in the rural setting and has been
described as a type of purification ceremony. Similarly, Buddhist monks, who
ideally should be striving to eliminate the causes of new karma, are in the rural
monastery primarily engaged in creating a specifically good type of karma,
that which has an immediate effect of conveying luck and good fortune to its
surroundings. The Buddhist key concepts such as mettā, nibbāna, and rebirth
are all interpreted in such a manner that they fit the animistic worldview.
Several secondary themes contributed to the format of this book. In the
first place, the fact that there is a great variation in the religion of individuals
has been underlined by the choice of an ontogenetical pattern in the chapters;
an attempt has been made to show how individuals grow and develop in
their culture. A young child’s religion often consists of ideas concerning the
spirits, the monks, the monasteries, and ethics. Adolescents obtain access to
a great variety of magically charged objects. After reaching the age of twenty,
a man can expect to become a monk and thus learn some sacred chanting
and obtain a thorough knowledge of rituals of all kinds. Being a member of
the Sangha does not imply that one becomes a recluse. For a rural person,
the withdrawal from the world consists of an abstention from certain types
of worldly behaviour only; his involvement with the community as a whole
remains intense. Adult laymen have many opportunities to participate in
private and public ceremonies, in the nearby monastery as well as far away.
Most laymen feel obliged to participate in the public fund raising ceremonies.
Old men can be ritual experts, and they may often lead the lay community
in rituals that are celebrated together with the monks. They may become
the healing specialists, those who tattoo young men, or serve as undertakers.
Their opinion is sought out whenever a decision has to be made that involves
ceremonial activity. Some of these older people have a regular intimate
contact with each other when they become recluses for periods of one day
and one night. A few of the older men join the Sangha for a second or third
time in their lives and enjoy the quiet and secure existence of a monk. By this
means they have no worry about obtaining food, shelter or medical care, they
occupy highly respected positions in the community and at the same time
have a better chance than most other rural people of achieving a good rebirth.
262
Another theme that has been developed throughout this book is the distinction
between the religious knowledge of men and that of women. From the time of their
earliest education, little girls are admonished to keep a physical distance between
themselves and the monks. They are excluded from becoming dek wat, and also
from joining the novices. The most powerfully charged amulets are out of their
reach and no tattooing specialist is prepared to give them permanent religiously
charged markings. At the time that their male age-mates join the order, girls have
only indirect access to religious knowledge. They can attend ceremonies, but
always in a passive role, only as recipients of merit and not as primary generators
of beneficial karma. It has been argued that in the animistic worldview there is a
good reason for excluding women from much of the important religious practice
and knowledge. Menstrual blood is regarded as antithetical to the protective
power and women are thus periodically a source of pollution; they have to be
kept away from the best amulets and strongest tattoos. In addition, many women
endanger the luck-bringing power, for by their attractive appearance they may
cause a monk to leave the order and marry, thus depriving him of a chance to
accumulate enormous quantities of beneficial power.
It is thus only when women are past childbearing age and when they are
less attractive sexually that they are able to obtain detailed religious knowledge.
Many older women join the devout older men on sacred days during the Lenten
season and adhere to the eight vows. During these periods of asceticism they
can learn to recite Pali texts, meditate and participate as equals in discussions
about religious topics.
is sometimes seen in the shape of a beautiful female, Mae Thorani. Under the
earth is the domain of the chief of the Nak, a serpent-like shape with the face of
a dragon. The wind, the river, a tree, a house, and the monastery, each of these is
connected with one or more unseen powers, conceived of in anthropomorphic
form, and each of these unseen powers has its specific likes and dislikes. A
farmer learns to attract their attention with candles, incense, and flowers, and
develops skills in addressing and pleasing them.
Nature has provided men with unexpected seats of power. For example,
a termite hill may acquire a reputation for bringing luck; or when lightning
strikes a building, the scorched plaster is regarded as magically powerful. A
lump of resin that shows the shape of a Buddha is sacred, and a big stone that
is dragged up from the river brings prosperity when laid in the rice-storage
hut.
The most important activities of men that are reputed to generate magical
power are the uttering of sacred words and meditation. Both monks and laymen
can perform these activities. The monk’s power is generally considered to be
stronger than that of the layman, but the former is limited in his application
of this power. Because of his superior ritual position a monk should not lower
himself to supplicate the unseen powers. That is why monks can, by reciting
sacred texts, consecrate a bowl of water at a marriage ceremony, but only a lay
ritual specialist may present the couple to the ancestors. Lay experts politely
raise their hands when asking favours from one of the powers around them,
but when a monk, if he were to address such a power, he should make sure not
to raise his hands.
l Secondary sources
The closer to the seat of magical power, the stronger is the influence of that
force. Any object of the appropriate shape that is exposed to a strong dose of
magical power will become a secondary seat of the force. This has been amply
demonstrated in the rituals surrounding amulets. When, for example, medallions
with the face of a famous monk and sacred syllables are cast in a factory, these
small objects have no innate power whatsoever. Also a small Buddha image or
a medallion bought in the market must first be activated before it will ward off
evil. This is why the bundles of such objects are placed near a monk who is
preaching, why the begging bowl of an ordinand contains them, and why bowls
of water stand near the monks who complete their pavāraṇā ceremony. The
principle is apparent in the rituals designed to sacralize amulets as well as those
where a bowl of water is charged.
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Table 9: The role of merit in the life cycle of the adult farmer
seen as a beneficial and protective force that extends over a long period of time
and that links individuals together. Table 9 represents a summing-up of the
ideas concerning the role of merit in the life cycle of farmers. It is characteristic
of the concept that it may have a long-term effect. The protective magical
power, however, can be seen as the immediate, specifically temporary aspect
266
of merit. In this respect this can be seen as another instance of a concept from
doctrinal Buddhism being linked up with a basically animistic idea.
Just as the development of a foetus shows stages that are reminiscent
of the evolution of the whole species, so the individual in central Thailand
develops in his religious outlook from a preoccupation with magical power to
a concentration on the long-term effects of merit. When competing for a wife,
the young adult is concerned with improving his chances, and in his eyes the
actions of the monks who generate beneficial power may well be used to his
advantage. To the farmers it is no coincidence that the most crucial period of the
agricultural cycle falls at the time when religious activities in the monastery are
also at their peak. The frequent chanting and meditation sessions in the Lenten
season have a good influence on the abundance of rain and the growth of rice.
Similarly, a man believes that he stands a better chance of winning the lottery
immediately after attending a major ceremony in the monastery.
It is only in the later stages of life that the diachronic aspects of making merit
take precedence. While a young person may know that, in theory, the beneficial
karma obtained may have effect at an unspecified time in the future, it is only
when a person becomes aware of the fact that death is rapidly approaching,
that the wish to obtain a fortunate rebirth becomes a prime motivating force.
The overall approach to Thai religion in this book seems essentially dif-
ferent from that in the standard literature on the subject. Instead of choosing
between syncretism and a compartmentalized model, I have argued that both
are adequately represented in Thailand. Syncretism appears to fit the religious
outlook of the unsophisticated sections of the population, whilst a more or
less rigid distinction between ‘pure’ Buddhism and religious practices that
have little to do with Buddhism is most likely to be found among the educated
and sophisticated Thai elite. Even the few scholars who mention a difference
between rural Buddhism and Buddhism of the elite fail to notice the funda-
mentally different orientations of the two. The orientation of the Wat Sanchao
farmers is basically animistic and they have adopted aspects of Buddhism that
suit their animistic outlook, just as they adopt elements from Brahmanism and
Chinese religion. The farming community accepts any spell, any horoscope
and any magical procedure as long as it appears efficient.
Members of the elite are often aware of the fact that some of their actions
are in accordance with the Buddhist canon and that other religious practices
must be classified under different headings. Only among the highly educated
classes can be found people who fully appreciate the philosophical and practical
consequences of the teachings of Siddhārtha Gautama. It is only in urban centres
267
that doctrinal Buddhism occupies a superior sphere in the religious outlook and
it is here that the Thai elite finds tattooing, magic and the power of sanctified
water of somewhat lesser value than the subtle teachings in the canon.
These two fundamentally different interpretations of Buddhism within
a Buddhist country are not intended as an exhaustive typology; they are a
description of two extremes. It is an incomplete model that probably could
be developed further with research in the provincial capitals and in the capital
city. Among the rapidly expanding middle classes there are probably some
who adhere to the animistic rural religion and others who feel more at home in
the sophisticated compartmentalized religious outlook, but it can be expected
that many waver between one and the other. In addition, it is probable that
the compartmentalized elitist orientation covers a wide spectrum of religious
approaches, from the sceptical to the deeply involved. In any case, the two
fundamentally different approaches to Buddhism amongst the Thai believers
may provide a useful vehicle with which to study the changes in Buddhist
religious orientations. The model that recognizes animistic Buddhism as
well as a compartmentalized religion with a Buddhist superstructure has the
advantage of being dynamic. It helps put into perspective the changes that
occurred in rural religion during previous centuries, when the overt behaviour
of the Buddhist monks has been modified to fit better the ideals developed by
the central organization, but where the basic attitudes of many farmers may
have remained relatively unaltered.
The model is thus useful when applied to the history of Buddhism in
Thailand. Too often the development of religion is depicted only as a matter that
concerns only the ruling classes, and therefore the historical sources have been
used that present a purely compartmentalized point of view. The dichotomy
between rulers and ruled, between town and hinterland is highly relevant for
the study of religious development. It has been argued in this book that the two
fundamentally different approaches to Buddhism may well originate from the
time of the very first introduction of Buddhism in the rural scene.
268
commodity that at certain times emanates from monks and that may attach
itself to certain objects in the vicinity of monks performing a ceremony. This
emanation is seen as a luck-bringing force, a power that attaches itself to certain
suitable objects, that may be led through the cotton thread (sai sin) and that
can be infused into water to make nam mon. If this interpretation of the effect of
positive karma is not part of Buddhism as it is described in the Tipitaka and if
the practises described in this book in relation to the manipulation of this force
are not encountered in other forms of Buddhism, it may well rest upon a local
underlying Southeast Asian belief system.
In Chapter IV it was described how amulets were made and how they were
kept and treasured. This preoccupation with small protective, luck-bringing,
shielding objects is an unusual regional phenomenon. Now, many years after
the original fieldwork, the subject is of continuing interest for understanding
modern Thailand. Not only is the world of collectors still thriving, as witnessed
by a plethora of journals, but there is avid interest in finding out where the rare
most powerful of these objects can be found. In December 2009 I came across
an article in The Nation that described the string of amulets worn by Abhisit
Vejjajiva, then Prime Minister of Thailand. It was described that the Premier
wore some ten amulets, some his own, others loaned to him. In the first
category was a Luangpho Thuat M16, known all over Thailand as providing
invulnerability to its wearer.1 Another highly valued amulet worn by Abhisit
was one reputed to be one of the first batch of Jatukam Ramathep amulets,
widely regarded at the time of assuring that the wearer would have success and
meet with good fortune.2 The article continues with a description of various
instances of amulet-presentations to the Premier.3
Another major striking idiosyncrasy in Thai religion is that a man’s ordina-
tion to become a fully-fledged member of the Sangha is not only reserved to
people who wish to renounce the world, but is also taken as an ideal temporary
1 Luangpho Thuat is a legendary Buddhist monk who is reputed to have lived in the seven-
teenth century in southern Thailand. In the 1950s the first amulets with his countenance
were made to help finance the rebuilding of a monastery. The fame of the M16 version of
amulet derives from an incident in the South of Thailand, when bandits attacked a lorry
and sprayed the driver cab with rounds from an M16 automatic rifle. The driver’s shirt
was torn by bullets, but he himself, wearing a Luangpho Thuat amulet, was not hurt.
2 The first batch was made in 1987. The Jatukam Ramathep amulets became much sought
after in 2006, after the death of the man who first made them. At one time a single amulet
of the proper silvery-black colour reputedly passed hands for as much as 1,800,000 baht.
The Kasikorn Research Centre, in an article dated 21 June 2007, reported that already
300 series of the talisman had been printed and that business around the sale of the
amulet for the year 2007 was estimated to amount to 40 billion baht.
3 Traithep Krai-ngu, ‘PM Protected by Amulet Shield’, The Nation, December 13, 2009.
270
retreat for the young adult male, preferably undergone before taking on the
responsibility of founding a family of his own. This rite-de-passage seems to
be one of such above-mentioned local adaptations of the Buddhist creed. As
far as I could determine, it is practised in this way only in Thailand, Laos and
Cambodia and it is not based on the Buddhist canon. The question of why this
should be so is vexed. We have only a vague inkling of the mix of indigenous re-
ligions in mainland Southeast Asia at the time that Buddhism was established.
My hypothesis is that the institution of the Buddhist monastery blended with
an indigenous institution, that I – for simplicity’s sake – shall call the ‘men’s
house’. In order to account for the large number of young men who serve only
for a single rainy season, I assume that the Buddhist monastery absorbed a
local institution in which young men were initiated before being accepted into
the adult world. The strict Buddhist monastic discipline with its abstinence of
food, alcohol and sex has much in common with the types of ordeals that may
be expected in initiation rituals and this may have been the reason why the
Thai Sangha has become so generous towards young adult males by allowing
them to be ordained, well-knowing that they will soon return to pursue their
career as lay people.
Also, as an anthropologist I have been struck by the shape of the chief
buildings in Southeast Asian Buddhist monasteries, with their massive, of-
ten multi-layered roofs. These structures reminded me of the large bamboo
constructions found in Southeast Asia. The architecture of Southeast Asian
Buddhist monasteries of Southeast Asia only rarely conforms to Indian pro-
totypes. Gradually I have come to adopt the idea that the Buddhist monastery
absorbed not only the indigenous institution where young men were initiated
but also the very building – the ‘men’s house’ – in which this initiation had
taken place, shape and all.
Furthermore, it has been noted in this book that the formal rules govern-
ing the monks’ behaviour sometimes are interpreted in a rather lax manner
(not just the rules governing male access to the Sangha just mentioned, but
notably those related to the prohibition to touch money and the relaxed at-
titude towards smoking) and that in contrast some rules are kept even more
assiduously than the letter of the law prescribes. The latter is particularly true
with regard to the many formal rules that prevent contact between Buddhist
monks and women. It has been argued in this book that the finicky dealing
with matters feminine is related to the notion that women, not only because
of their association with procreation and their allure that may disturb monas-
tic equanimity but more specifically because of their monthly exuding men-
271
strual fluids, are seen as antithetical to the most valued for of luck-bringing
magical power.
It is this usually unstated aspect that makes it difficult for women to rise
above the status of mae chi, and to re-instate the order of the phiksuni, the
fully ordained, yellow-robed Buddhist nuns. In the 1920s already two sisters
took the bold step of getting themselves ordained. This caused a furore and
the Sangha reacted rapidly with the Supreme Patriarch officially forbidding
monks to ordain women. The civil authorities followed suit: both women were
arrested and forcefully disrobed. In 1933 a law was passed formally prohibiting
women’s ordination. This law has never been repealed.
Modern Thailand naturally also has its feminists, and among them there are
some who are of the firm opinion that the Sangha ought to be enriched with
fully ordained women. In the early 1970s I met Thailand’s only phiksuni, a full
female member of the Sangha, who resided in her private monastery, named
Watra4 Songtham Kanlayani, in the town of Nakhon Pathom. This was the
Reverend Voramai Kabilsingh, who told me that in 1971 she had been ordained
in Taiwan. While she impressed me by her sincerity and determination, I also
observed that she remained rather isolated from the immediate surrounding
population. When I asked whether she went collecting food in the early
morning, she told that that was not possible, because many people would
not accept her nun’s role. Many ordinary Thais felt uneasy with her, some
saying that she did not belong to the Theravada tradition, others stating with
indignation that a female in monks’ robes was an impossible situation, an
inacceptable anomaly. The Reverend Voramai, protected by her wealth and
upper-class connections, managed to edit her own journal and remained a
devout Buddhist nun till she passed away, aged 96 in 2003.
Since those days there have been many more women who felt that the
male dominance of the Thai Sangha needed to be challenged, and like the
Reverend phiksuni Voramai, they made use of the multiplicity of Buddhist
schools around the world to gain access to the order. They selected Sri Lanka,
a wise choice because there they found a Theravada tradition that made them
feel welcome. Early in 2001, Voramai’s daughter, the well-known academic
Chatsumarn Kabilsingh was there ordained as a novice and took the name
of samaneri Dhammananda and two years later she became a fully ordained
Buddhist nun. At that time there may have been as much as 13,000 mae chi
in Thailand but, in view of the continuing hostility that yellow-robed females
4 By using the word watra (วัตร meaning ‘practice’) instead of wat (วัด ‘monastery’) she
avoided an open conflict with the clerical authorities.
272
meet in Thailand, only a small number (at the time of writing this more than
20) decided to follow and became ordained. Most mae chi prefer to avoid a
direct confrontation with the general public and exploit the chances offered by
remaining in the traditionally accepted mae chi role.
The only contribution that Monks and Magic offers in this on-going debate
is to point out the often suppressed, seldom openly stated belief that males are
by nature privileged in that they can (amongst other things and with the proper
effort) create luck-bringing power and women are by nature handicapped and
sometimes destructive in this respect.
5 The abolition of slavery was officially announced in the early 1880s but its implementa-
tion was a gradual one so that only in the first decades of the twentieth century did this
class of people disappear.
274
meters parallel to the waterways. There almost everyone walked, most of them
on thongs or barefoot, only stepping aside to let through an occasional bicycle.
In order to illustrate the stupendous changes that have taken place I present
a number of photographs, the first five taken in the 1960s, followed by a set
taken illustrating the situation in 2010. In the more than four decades the
community has been catapulted from an almost archaic situation into the
modern world.
The first major modernization impetus came in 1966 and 1967 as a result of
the building of a new pumping station and its connected water channels. This
pump freed the farmers from the anxieties of hoping for a suitable rainfall at
the appropriate time. It also forced them into a cooperative society, where they
had to pay for the petrol to run the pump and to keep the water channels clear.
276
The most fundamental change was, however, that in future the higher fields –
formerly the poorest on which rice was only sown broadcast – now should be
flooded first, as befits an irrigation system. This reversed the traditional value
system where the lowest fields had been the most valuable, for they had been
the least risky for raising a crop in the time that they depended on rainfall.
As the first three photographs show, the tilling of the fields, the harvest and
transport of the rice crop was done with time-honoured methods.
In the 1960s the monastery possessed two stone edifices: a main temple
building (the bot) and a large monument (a chetiya). A large wooden gathering
hall on concrete stilts, flanked left and right with rows of monks’ cells was the
busiest place of the whole monastery. Here the early morning chanting took
place and it was the scene where the annual major ceremonies described in
Chapter IX were staged. One major footpath and a few shortcuts through the
grassy areas connected these buildings with the farming areas and those who
chose to reach the place by boat chose the middle of the three landings at the
river side, the other two being rather rickety. Figure 11.4 is taken from the café
nearest the main entrance over land, a simple bamboo structure with home-
made furniture, a roof made of pandanus leaves providing shade. From here
anyone passing on the elevated footpath would be in clear view and could be
hailed with the standard question: “Pai nai ma?” (ไปไหนมา). Figure 11.5 gives a
good impression of the river approach to Wat Sanchao, with the main open-air
277
Figure 11.4: Opposite the entrance to the monastery, the café in 1967.
rest-house (sala), where on school days an itinerant trading woman would sit
waiting for the midday break to sell some sweets to the children.
Figure 11.6, whose photograph was made in the mid-70s, records the first
major change in the monastery: a new modern meeting hall with cremation
Figure 11.5: Wat Sanchao seen from the Maeklong river in the 1960s.
278
Figure 11.6: In 1974: the old bot to the left, the new meeting hall and cremation
furnace on the right.
facilities attached had been erected. Henceforth corpses were no longer burnt
in the open air and Wat Sanchao’s monastery committee could now expect to
derive a fair amount of income as families would want to make use of these
modern funeral facilities.
More than forty years after the period of fieldwork, Wat Sanchao and its
immediate surroundings had been enveloped by Ratburi’s expansion. Dozens
of electricity wires now crossed the river Kwae Om (see Figure 11.7). The
monastery grounds were no longer visible from the road, a solid wall now
enveloping the whole area. Near the entrance a large marmor plaque records that
on August 28, 2006 the building of the new wall had begun and that the work
was finished on May 12, 2008; it also lists the full names of 240 donors. Once
inside, a visitor sees that the grassy areas have now all disappeared, the lower
grounds raised and a smooth concrete floor now allows access to motorised
vehicles. Where formerly the large wooden gathering hall dominated the scene
a two-story building in the style of a modern Thai palace now stands (see
Figure 11.8). The next picture shows that also the waterside is included in the
total renovation with a beautiful ornate sala and a new bell tower, in between
a brand-new statue of Luang Pho Taa (see Chapter III).
Parallel to the changes in Wat Sanchao, the surrounding countryside has
been transformed. Former footpaths are now broad asphalted roads, parts of
279
them lined with suburban-style houses and shops. Much of the rice-growing
area had been transformed into gardens, where now vegetables and fruit crops
were raised, and one large factory building now changed the skyline. The view
in Figure 11.4 has been changed to that now seen in Figure 11.10.
The river now has fallen silent; goods are more efficiently transported over
the roads. Traffic noise has shifted upwards to the roads. In short, Wat Sanchao
and its community are now part of an outer suburb of the provincial capital.
The rural community has disappeared: young people orient themselves to
Ratburi town and from there are part of Thailand and the wider world. In
the 1960s in Wat Sanchao there was no reading material and the postman
seldom crossed the river Khwae Om; now there are kiosks selling local and
national newspapers that are widely read. This accelerated development,
this precipitation into the complex modern world has occurred not only in
Wat Sanchao, it is the experience of millions now growing up in completely
different circumstances than those in which their parents and grandparents
lived. A remarkable element in this transformation is that the monastery was
not left behind: the massive investment in new buildings demonstrates this. It
still houses a number of monks, every year boosted by youngsters who intend
to stay only one rainy season. In the modern world the Buddhist monastery
280
Figure 11.8: Wat Sanchao, with concrete floor, 2010, at the right the ‘uposatha hall’
(bot).
281
Figure 11.10: Opposite the entrance to the monastery, in 2010, transformed into a
suburban scene.
remains a quiet haven, it retains its reflective atmosphere and remains a refuge
where the hectic world is left behind. The inhabitants of Wat Sanchao still
remind the community that the human span of life is short and that in contrast
to those who pursue the acquisition of wealth or power there are those who
find fulfilment in renouncing the mundane world.
282
Thai words are presented in transcription, followed by the term in Thai. When
an expression is in Pali this is indicated with (P), Sanskrit words with (S).
289
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302
abbot, 22, 57, 99, 108, 119, 132, 134, 210, astrology, 15, 44, 132, 147, 150–1, 156,
215, 220, 242 . See also monks: hierar- 160, 175
chy asura, 239
accidents, prevention of, 69, 116, 127, auspiciousness, 151, 155, 176–7. See also
133, 244 inauspiciousness; yan ubakong
achan sak, 79–81, 140, 283. See also tattoo- Ayutthaya, 14, 18, 120
ing
acrobatics, 51, 202
bad dream. See nightmare
agriculture in Wat Sanchao. See Wat Sanchao
baeng ha system, 27. See also chao khat tua
Ahom Buranji, 9, 298 system; Wat Sanchao: agriculture
alcohol, 28, 67, 76, 111, 141, 164 181, 183– baeng kuson, 135. See also karma
5, 258, 260, 271
bai chak, 153
amulets, 55, 70, 72, 74, 87–8, 116, 136, bai ngoen bai thong. See silver-and-gold leaf
140, 270. See also phuthaphisek
Bali (daitya), 172, 175. See also gods; Viṣṇu
ancestor spirits, 20, 53, 141–2, 144, 148,
bamboo, 26, 44, 46, 67, 81, 153, 157, 160,
151, 155, 186, 248, 250, 251, 260. See
221, 271, 275, 277
also spirits
banana
Aṅgada, 83
the fruit, 43, 47, 142, 161, 164
Angkor, 7, 14
leaves, 46, 47
animism. See Buddhism; magico-animism
the plant, 165
animal sacrifice, 17, 20. See also buffalo tree trunk, 161, 249
sacrifice
bathing cloth, 59, 214, 222–6
apamongkhon, 176–7, 283
begging bowl, 61, 73–4, 116, 127, 133,
arahan, 119, 207–8, 240, 283 144, 174, 192–3, 209, 218, 229, 264.
Araññavasi, 10–11. See also Sīhalabhikkhus See also monks: and food
areca nut, 10, 26, 43, 112, 143–4, 149, 153, Benchasin Benchatham, 183–4
164, 189, 211, 249 betel leaf, 26, 112, 143–4, 149, 164, 189,
Asalahabucha, 215, 225–6. See also festi- 211, 249
vals and ceremonies betrothal, 143–4
āsavas, 208 bhikkhunī, 125, 245–6, 272–3. See also mae
Assam, 8, 19 chi; phiksuni; women
303
304
cotton thread, 73. See also phuthaphisek; evil spirits. See spirits; phi taihong
sai sin
courting, 135–40, 141. See also marriage
face powder, 136
cowries, 10
faeces, 81
cremation, 31, 202, 253–7, 279. See also
funeral fan, ceremonial, 182, 197, 218
crime, 184, 185, 238 fasting, 62, 111–2, 199
Cullavagga, 114, 245–6 feet, 58, 86, 89, 138, 140, 154–5, 173, 181,
206, 208, 211, 217, 249
cushion, 10, 74, 179, 197
fertility, 106
festivals and ceremonies, 179, 185,
Dāṣadhārā, 167, 171. See also spirits: guard- 214–5, 217, 233, 236, 275. See also
ian; Thathara Asalahabucha; ceremony; kathin; Khao
death, 247–60. See also corpse; funeral; phansa; Loi Krathong; Makhabucha;
spells; spirits ordination; Pavāraṇa; phansa; saibat
dek wat, 55, 60–3, 65, 77, 111, 128, 144, dawadueng; Songkran; Tāvatiṃsa; thawai
193–4, 200, 243, 263. See also children; pha apnamfon; thawai sangkhathan; wan
education phra; Wisakhabucha
Devadatta, 173 film, 51, 52, 68, 202, 231, 256
Devathera (or Devena), 167. See also spir- fire, 46–7, 84
its: guardian; Thewathen first haircut, 31, 45, 47–8, 106, 209. See
devil, 87 also children
Dharmahora, 167. See also spirits: guardi- fish, 186
an; Thammahora five precepts, 178–88, 201–3, 221. See also
Dharmikarāja, 167. See also spirits: guardi- precepts
an; Thammikarat flowers, 10, 54, 56, 79, 80, 133, 141, 142,
disease, 19, 64, 69, 176, 246 149, 155–6, 160, 164, 191, 192, 224,
dog, 48, 52, 140, 143, 151, 188 227, 252, 256, 264
dove, 83 four elements, 84, 117
dragon, 174, 264 fruit, 81, 213, 220, 231
duck, 160, 164, 188 Funan, 6
dukkhaṭa, 109. See also monks: and behav- funeral, 106, 108. See also cremation; death
iour; Pāṭimokkha; thūlaccaya; Vinaya
Dvāravati, 6–7. See also Buddhism; Mon gambling, 32, 67, 76, 128–9, 183, 235. See
also lottery
earth, 19, 85, 138, 161, 163, 164, 170–4, Gandharva, 167, 171. See also Khonthap;
175 spirits: guardian
education Ganges, 173
of children, 55–9, 66 garland, 56
of dek wat. See dek wat garlic, 220, 253
of infants, 49–50 garuḍa, 83
of monks, 101–30 geomancy, 174. See also house-building;
egg, 47, 80, 183 magic
eight precepts, 182, 187, 189–205, 217, gestures, 49, 54, 111, 141
226, 233–4, 238, 247. See also precepts ghosts. See phi; spirits
electricity, 29, 275, 279, 280, 282 girls, different treatment of, 50–1. See also
etiquette, 29, 58, 102, 157 women
305
306
Lamphun, 9. See also Mon; Tai mai charoensuk, 157. See also house-build-
Lanna, 15 ing
Laos, 17, 19, 152. See also buffalo sacri- mai makhamong, 157. See also house-build-
fice; Tai ing
Lava. See Lop mai mayom, 133, 213
Lenten period. See phansa mai rang, 157. See also house-building
leopard, 87. See also tattooing mai ruak, 44. See also bamboo
lightning, 75, 264 mai takhian, 157. See also house-building
ling lom, 83–5. See also monkey; tattooing mai teng, 157. See also house-building
linga, 6 Makhabucha (Māghapūjā), 214, 215, 285.
lion, 83. See also tattooing See also festivals and ceremonies
lizard, 83. See also tattooing Malai. See Phra Malai
Lö Thai, 13. See also Sukhothai Manthathukathibodi. See Santhathuk
Loi Krathong, 75. See also festivals and cer- mantra, 45, 117, 243
emonies Māra, 173
Lop (Lava), 83. See also Rāma marriage, 20, 31, 141–9, 209, 239–40
Lopburi, 7 Martaban, 11–3. See also Mon
loris, 83. See also monkey; tattooing māsaka, 110. See also coin
lottery, 22, 128, 220–1, 237 matum, 213
lotus, 165, 224 mayom, 213
love magic. See magic: love medallion, 54, 70, 72–3, 76, 87, 89, 245,
264. See also Khom script; magic
medicine, 44, 112, 126, 133, 213, 243–4,
mae chi, 187, 246–7, 272–3. See also bhikkhunī; 253
phiksuni; women
meditation, 74, 119–20, 130, 199, 207,
mae khrua, 68 214, 247, 263, 265
Mae Thorani. See Thorani menstruation, 88, 90, 113, 148, 263. See
Maeklong River, 25–6, 278, 281 also women
mafueang fruit, 81 mettā, 136, 152, 262. See also magic: love
magic, 17, 36, 75, 89, 130, 151, 268 milk products, 112
love, 136, 138–9, 151, 174 moksa, 240–1. See also death; nibbāna
see also amulets; animal sacrifice; astrol-
Mon, 6–8, 9, 11–2. See also Haripuñjaya;
ogy; geomancy; magico-animism;
Lamphun; Martaban; Sīhalabhikkhus;
spells; tattooing; witchcraft
Tai
magical diagram, 71, 77–8, 82–3, 136–7,
money, 43, 63, 79, 107, 126–8, 192, 221,
153–4, 166–7, 244, 259, 265. See also
265. See also coin
yan
monkey, 52, 83–5, 151. See also Hanuman;
magico-animism, 2, 4, 5, 11, 15–20, 112,
ling lom
130, 157, 249, 261, 262, 263, 265. See
also Buddhism; magic monks
behaviour, 31–2, 109–13, 125–7. See also
Māghapūjā. See Makhabucha
dukkhaṭa; Pāṭimokkha; thūlaccaya;
Maha nikai, 129. See also Sangha Vinaya
mahakathin, 229. See also chulakathin; kathin; chanting, 105–9, 209–13
monks: robes ‘confession’. See sadaeng abat
Mahathat, 12. See also Buddha; Sukhothai and food, 111–2, 192, 194–7, 202. See
Mahayanism. See Buddhism also begging bowl
307
hierarchy, 99–100, 216–7, 242. See also novices, 63–4, 179, 204–5. See also monks;
abbot; chaokhana changwat ordination
knowledge and use of spells, 69, 72, 90, nuns. See phiksuni
116–7. See also magic; spells
and language, 105
and marriage ceremony, 144 Ok phansa, 215, 226–7. See also phansa
and money, 63, 107, 126–8, 265 Om River, 25, 275
recruitment, 18. See also ordination onion, 220, 253
robes, 111. See also chulakathin; kathin; opium, 67, 183
mahakathin
ordination, 94, 98, 132. See also buat phra;
and sexuality, 110–1
and spirits, 157, 264 buat rian; monks
and tattooing, 77 ceremony, 68, 74, 103–4, 203–4, 217–9
and women, 32, 47, 50, 112, 215, 265. See female, 245–6, 272. See also bhikkhunī;
also bhikkhunī; chi; phiksuni; women mae chi; phiksuni; women
in later life, 242
Mongkut, 214
preparations for, 47, 68, 99, 101–3. See
mosquito, 183, 186 also tham khwan
mosquito net, 189 reasons for, 18, 96–8
Mother Thorani. See Thorani as rite de passage, 92, 97, 271. See also
khon dip
in youth, 92–104
Nak. See Phaya Nak
Nak tham examination/grades, 64, 120–5,
131, 184, 241. See also Parien pācittiyā, 120, 122, 123–4, 224. See also
nakedness, attitude towards, 50, 224 Pāṭimokkha
Nakhonrat, 167. See also spirits: guardian pañcakakammaṭṭhāna, 119
nam mon, 45, 74, 145, 212–3, 174, 264. See panther, 83
also water, use in ritual pārājikā, 109–10. See also Pāṭimokkha; pre-
name-giving cepts
of children, 48–9 Parien, 121, 131. See also Nak tham
of monks, 104–5 paritta, 117. See also spells
namman nga, 87. See also tattooing Parvan days, 202. See also wan phra
namman phrai, 89, 138–9, 258. See also Pātāla, 172. See also Bali
death; magic; witchcraft Pathomsomphot, 122. See also Nak tham ex-
Nanchao, 9. See also Tai; Yunnan amination/grades
Nang Kwak, 88. See also amulets; women Pāṭimokkha, 109, 113, 120, 125, 214, 224.
Nang Mai, 158, 165, 170. See also spirits See also dukkhaṭa; monks: and behav-
Narai. See Phra Narai iour; thūlaccaya; Vinaya
national anthem, 58 patiyan, 187. See also five precepts
Nawakowat, 121–5. See also Nak tham ex- Pavāraṇa, 227–8. See also festivals and cer-
amination/grades emonies; saibat dawadueng
needle and thread, 239 peas, in ritual, 143, 149, 160, 161
New Year. See Songkran phakhaoma, 160, 189, 208
nibbāna, 208, 240, 262. See also moksa phallus, 55, 71, 85, 89
nightmares, 41, 141, 176 phansa, 99, 106, 113, 193, 195, 198–9,
Nipa palm leaf, 153 226, 227, 228, 242. See also festivals and
nissaggiyā-pācittiyā, 126, 127, 223. See also ceremonies; Ok phansa
Pāṭimokkha phanung, 71. See also amulets; women
308
phapa, 230, 231–2, 233. See also kathin Ratburi, 21–2, 29, 187, 220, 232, 279–80,
Phaya Nak, 161, 170, 174–5, 264 282
phi, 3, 19, 53–4, 76. See also spirits raw meat, 142
phi ban, 53–4 relics, 12–4, 35
phi krasue, 53, 253 religion, definition of, 35–6
phi ruean, 53 resin, 69, 90, 264
phi tai hong, 53, 258 riang mon, 147–9. See also marriage
phiksu. See monks rice
phiksuni, 272. See also bhikkhunī; mae chi; cultivation. See Wat Sanchao: agricul-
women ture
Phra In. See Indra goddess, 90. See also gods
puffed ~ , 143, 149, 160, 161
Phra Ketkaew Culamani, 249 . See also gods;
ritual use, 142, 143, 149
Yama
rote learning, 103, 113, 228. See also edu-
Phra Malai, 188, 210, 238, 251, 259–60
cation
Phra Narai, 170–1. See also Viṣṇu
rotnam phuyai, 216–7. See also Songkran
phra phim, 69. See also amulets
ṛṣi, 75
Phra Phum. See san Phra Phum; spirits:
guardian or tutelary
phuthaphisek, 72–3. See also amulets; sa- sacralization, 45, 72–3, 75, 88, 137, 174,
cralization; sai sin 213. See also phuthaphisek; pluksek
Phutthaprawat, 122, 125. See also Nak sadaeng abat, 113–4, 133, 214
tham examination/grades sai sin, 45, 73–4, 211–2, 249. See also
pig’s head, in ritual, 17, 20, 80, 164, 261 phuthaphisek
pinto, 61. See also begging bowl saibat dawadueng, 215, 228–9. See also festi-
placenta, 44. See also birth vals and ceremonies; Pavāraṇa; Tāvatiṃsa
pluksek, 72. See also sacralization Saivism, 6. See also Buddhism
prakhen, 62, 111. See also dek wat; monks: salakaphat, 218, 219–21, 223. See also fes-
and food tivals and ceremonies
precepts, 64, 109, 111, 114, 125–6, 129, salt, 44, 208
205. See also eight precepts; five pre- Sam Fang Kaen, 15
cepts; pārājikā; Pāṭimokkha; ten pre- samanera. See novices
cepts san phiangta, 158, 160–4, 175
pret, 52–3, 239. See also spirits san Phra Phum, 142, 170. See also spirits:
primary education. See education: of chil- guardian or tutelary
dren Sangha
proverbs, 121 leaving the ~ , 131–5
purification, 45, 143, 182, 189, 203, 205, more heterodox majority. See Maha ni
262. See also thorani san kai
organization of, 15. See also monks: hi-
erarchy
rainmaking, 106 strictly orthodox sect within. See Tham
rak-leaves, 149, 213 mayuthika nikai
rakyom, 136, 140, 152. See also magic: love women excluded from. See bhikkhunī
Ram Khamhaeng, 10–1 see also Buddhism; monks
Rāma, 52, 83. See also gods; Viṣṇu Santhathuk, 171. See also Thotsarat
Ramayana, 81, 83 sao aek, 164–7. See also house-building
rat, 151, 186 semen, 81, 85, 110–1
309
310
thawai pha apnamfon, 215, 222–5. See also vassika sātikamdānam. See thawai pha apnam
festivals and ceremonies fon
thawai sangkhathan, 194, 196–7, 209, 221, Vassupanayika, 215. See also Ok phansa
225. See also festivals and ceremonies Venus, 176, 177
Thewathen (or Thephen), 167. See also Vietnam, 19, 44. See also Tai
Devathera; spirits: guardian Vinaya, 109, 127, 222, 227, 245. See also
Thorani, 161, 173–4. See also Buddha: life dukkhaṭa; monks: and behaviour; Pāṭi
of; earth; spirits: guardian mokkha; thūlaccaya
thorani san, 173–4. See also purification Viṣṇu, 6, 52, 171, 172. See also Bali; gods;
thorns, 44 Rāma
Thotsarat, 171, 253. See also Bali; Krungphali; vulture, 174
Santhathuk vulva, 85
threshold, 139, 219
thūlaccaya, 109. See also dukkhaṭa; monks:
wai khru, 79. See also tattooing
and behaviour; Pāṭimokkha; Vinaya
wan kon, 122
Tibet, 151, 269
wan phra, 51, 198–9, 234, 238. See also fes-
tiger, 71, 83, 87, 89, 151. See also tattooing
tivals and ceremonies
tobacco, 112, 126
Wat Sanchao
tongue, 78 agriculture, 24–30, 274–80
tonsure. See first haircut changes over years, 274–82 passim
topknot, 45 geography, 22–6, 274–5
torture, 183 monastery, 21–6
tra sang, 249. See also funeral occupations, 26–8, 186, 275. See also
Trailok, 14. See also Ayutthaya; Khmer brick-making
Traiphūmikhāthā, 14, 238 selection as field site, 273–4
twelve-year cycle, 151 water, use of in ritual, 45, 74, 213, 227. See
also kruat nam; udakadhārā
wax, 45, 74, 213, 227
ubasika, 192, 195, 197–9, 200, 202, 238, Wayathat, 167. See also spirits: guardian
248. See also precepts; women wedding. See marriage
ubasok, 192, 195, 197–9, 202, 238. See also white cloth, 160, 164, 165–6, 256. See also
precepts funeral; san phiangta
udakadhārā, 171. See also kruat nam; wa- White Tai, 252. See also Tai
ter, use of in ritual winnowing tray, 44, 47
umbilical cord, 44. See also birth winyan, 41
umbrella, 73, 160, 164, 218 Wisakhabucha, 215, 217, 225. See also fes-
unalom, 83, 85. See also tattooing tivals and ceremonies
uneven numbers, 46, 210, 249–50 witchcraft, 69
upasampadā, 215. See also ordination women
upayana, 134. See also yajñopavita and amulets, 88–9
uposatha hall, 281. See also bot dangerous powers of, 102, 113, 200. See
urine, 81 also menstruation
and love magic, 137–40. See also magic
and monks, 47, 50, 112, 265
Vaiṣṇavism, 6. See also Buddhism; Dvāravatī and monks’ ordination, 96, 248
Vajirañāṇavarorasa, 121, 122, 184, 252. See ordination of, 272. See also Buddha: at-
also Nawakowat; Phutthaprawat titude to women; phiksuni
311
and religion, 200–1, 245–7, 263. See yan napaṭhamaṃ, 136–7. See also magical
also bhikkhunī; chi; phiksuni diagram
rules of married life, 147–9 yan sibsongthit, 167, 169. See also magical
World War II, 28, 98 diagram
yan trinisinghe, 166–8. See also magical di-
agram
ya kha, 157, 213
yan ubakong, 150. See also auspiciousness
ya phraek, 133, 213
yok khru, 80, 81. See also tattooing
yajñopavita, 55, 134. See also upayana
yom, xii, 105
yak, 239. See also spirits
yu fai, 46–7. See also birth
Yama, 249. See also gods; Phra Ketkaew
Culamani Yunnan, 8, 19. See also Tai
yamala, 117
yan, 46, 134, 150, 166–9. See also magical
diagram
312